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 a 
 ° 
 “ 
 
 LEIGHTON BF 
 
 MSS PORBES HONEY 6b Al Eee 
 ( MYZOMELA ANNABELLE, Sel.) 
 
A 
 
 NATURALISTS WANDERINGS 
 
 IN THE 
 
 HASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, 
 
 A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND EXPLORATION 
 
 FROM 1878 TO 1883, 
 
 BY 
 
 HENRY O. FORBES, F.R.G.S., 
 
 MEMBER OF THE SCOTTISH GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY; FELLOW OF THE ZOOLOGICAL 
 SOCIETY OF LONDON; MEMBER OF THE ANTHROPOLOGICAL INSTITUTE 
 OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND; MEMBER OF THE 
 BRITISH ORNITHOLOGIST’S UNION. 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS, FROM THE AUTHOR’S SKETCHES, 
 AND DESCRIPTIONS BY MR. JOHN B. GIBBS. 
 
 
 
 . LONDON: 
 
 SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE & RIVINGTON, 
 CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET, E.C. 
 
 1885. 
 
 [All rights reserved.) 
 
ae 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 LONDON : \ 
 PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITE: 
 STAMFORD STREET AND CIIARING CROSS, 
 
 
 
TO 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 , THE MEMORY 
 
 , OF 
 
 ‘ha FRIEND AND CLASS-FELLOW AT THE UNIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH, 
 
 ss GEAilliam Alexander Forbes, 
 : B.A., F.LS. F.GS. &., 
 FELLOW OF ST. JOHN’S COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE; 
 PROSECTOR TO THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON; 
 it 
 
 WHO DIED IN AFRICA IN JANUARY, 1883, 
 
 4 _ LEADING A SCIENTIFIC EXPEDITION ALONG THE RIVER NIGER; 
 
 SS 
 
 eS 
 
 be | 
 
 P _ AND WHO, ALREADY EMINENT FOR ENDURING WORK 
 a ACCOMPLISHED IN ZOOLOGICAL SCIENCE, 
 
 Ls 
 VV) 
 
 WAS IN FUTURE PROMISE PRE-EMINENT OVER ALL OF HIS TIME, 
 
 This Volume is affectionately Dedicated, 
 
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PREFACE. 
 
 
 
 Mr. A. R. Wauuace’s ‘ Malay Archipelago’ is so accurate and 
 exhaustive an account of the Eastern Isles, that there have 
 been left but few gleanings for those who have followed him 
 te gather. Most of the islands visited by me were also visited 
 by him; but my route has in each island been altogether 
 different from his. In as far as it refers to islands visited by 
 both of us, I should desire this volume, which is a mere 
 transcript of what I have thought the more interesting of 
 the field notes made during my wanderings, to be considered 
 in the light of an addendum to—unfortunately without any 
 of the literary elegance and finish of—that model book of 
 travel. 
 
 No detailed account of the Timor-laut Islands has appeared 
 before the present ; and very little has been published on the 
 inhabitants of the interior of Timor.* In the chapters devoted 
 to these lands I have contributed some ethnological notes which 
 I trust may be found new and of interest. 
 
 Before I allow this volume to leave my hands, I have the 
 pleasant task of acknowledging my indebtedness to many 
 friends. Besides those whose kindness I have referred to in 
 the body of this work, I have in the first instance to beg their 
 Excellencies Van Lansberge and ’Sjacob, the two Governors- 
 General of Netherlands India during my stay in the Archi- 
 pelago, to accept my grateful acknowledgments for their many 
 
 * ¢ As Possessdes Portugezas na Oceania, por Affonso do Castro, membro da 
 Sociedade de Sciencias e Artes de Batavia; Deputado da nacao, &c., ex- 
 
 Governador de Timor: Lisboa, 1867,’ contains an interesting account of some 
 of the customs of the people of E. Timor. 
 
vi PREFACE. 
 
 generous concessions and the aid granted to me as a scientific 
 traveller. My thanks are due also to all the civil officials— 
 too numerous to name here—whose districts I resided in or 
 passed through. ‘They upheld the well-deserved fame that the 
 Dutch-Indian Ambtenars have earned for their hospitality. 
 The mention of each of their districts is indelibly associated 
 in my remembrance with their names and their numerous acts 
 of kindness. I may be permitted to record the names of those 
 to whom I am under special obligation: Governor Laging 
 Tobias, then Resident of Palembang; Assistant-Resident 
 Schuylinburch, of Muara-dua; Controllers De Heer and Bey- 
 rinck, of the Lampong Residency; and Controllers Van der 
 Volk, Hisgen, and Kamp, of the Palembang Residency. 
 
 To Dr. Treub and Dr. Burck, of the Botanical Gardens in 
 Buitenzorg, I am peculiarly indebted for more than ordinary 
 acts of courtesy and friendship; as well as to Dr. Bernelot 
 Moens, Director of the Cinchona Plantations. To His Ex- 
 cellency Senhor Bento da Franga Pinto d’ Oliveira, the 
 Governor of Portuguese Timor, to his whole family, and to his 
 son Senhor Bento da Franga Salema, Government Secretary, 
 my wife and myself lie under the deepest indebtedness, not 
 alone for the aid and protection I was so generously provided 
 with to enable me to visit the interior of that interesting island, 
 but for the most affectionate kindness manifested to us both 
 throughout our stay in Timor. 
 
 To Mr. H. D. Jamieson, Mr. J. Craig and Mr. C. Haliburton, 
 who did for us many acts of personal kindness and friendship 
 while in Java, I tender my sincerest thanks. 
 
 I have to express my very hearty obligations to the British 
 Association’s Committee for the exploration of Timor-laut, 
 especially to Dr. P. L. Sclater; to Mr. Carruthers and the 
 Botanists of the British Museum for their aid in arranging 
 Timor Herbarium, and for their describing it in time to 
 appear as one of the appendices of this volume; to Messrs. 
 8. O. Ridley and J. Quelch, of the Zoological Department ; 
 
PREFACE. vil 
 
 and to Mr. R. Bowdler Sharpe for his kind revision of the proof 
 sheets of the ornithological lists, as well as for his willing aid 
 in the determination of the birds I obtained. 
 
 It was Mr. H. W. Bates, the Author of the‘ Naturalist on 
 the Amazons,’ who in my boyhood first inspired me with a desire 
 to visit the tropics; and he, in later years, has ever with ready 
 cheerfulness aided my inexperience by sound and friendly 
 advice. 
 
 Lastly but chiefly, I must acknowledge a heavy debt of 
 gratitude to my friend Alexander Comyns, LL.B., of the 
 Middle Temple, for more acts of kindness, as my constant 
 correspondent and counsellor during my absence, than can be 
 ever sufficiently acknowledged or repaid. 
 
 I cannot close without adding one word of recognition of 
 the companion of my travels, whose constant encouragement 
 and valued aid lighten all my labours. 
 
 Henry O. FoRBEs. 
 
 Rusishaw DEN, ABERDEEN, 
 January 30, 1885. 
 
= 4% 
 
 CONT REN ES: 
 
 
 
 ied ale 
 IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 IN BATAVIA AND BUITENZORG. 
 PAGE 
 Arrival in Batavia—First impressions—Buitenzorg and its Botanical 
 Gardens oe oe ee oe ee oe eo oo ee 3 
 CHAPTER II. 
 SOJOURN IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 
 
 Start for the Cocos-Keeling Islands—In the Straits of Sunda—An unex- 
 pected pilot—Arrival—History of the colony there—Terrible cyclones 
 —Home life of the colonists now—The reef and its builders—Fishes 
 in the lagoon—Crabs and their operations—Plant life—Insect life— 
 Mammals—Birds os f ss vs = cael 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 SOJOURN IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS (continued). 
 
 Coral reef formation—Observations on the elevation or subsidence of the 
 Keeling Atoll. ., - a Ye 5 ie oro 
 
 APPENDIX TO Part I. ays é,: = Be i ; Ae 42 
 
 
 
 PART I. 
 IN JAVA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 SOJOURN AT GENTENG IN BANTAM. 
 
 On the road—The Sundanese language—Every man a naturalist—Bird- 
 life at Genteng—Weaver-birds’ nests—A native rural bazaar—Forest 
 devastation—Geological structure of the district—A wonderful case 
 of mimicry in a spider. .. - os _ i oe pes Oe 
 
x | CONTENTS. 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER IL. 
 
 SOJOURN AT KOSALA IN BANTAM. 
 
 Leave Genteng—Native blacksmiths at Sadjira—Hot springs of Tjipanas 
 Birds and plants at Tjipanas—Invitation to Kosala—The Kosala 
 estate—'he curious disease Lata—The Wau-wau—Birds—Bees— 
 White ants—Great trees—Long drought and its consequences—The 
 Hemileia vastatrix, a fangoid blight and the buffalo disease—Flora 
 and fauna of Kosala Mountains—Singular living ants’ nests and their 
 development-—Orchids at Kosala and some curious devices for secur- 
 ing self-fertilisation—Ancient remains in the forest-—The Karangs 
 and their curious rites—The Badui—Religion and superstitions of the 
 people of Bantam—Leave Kosala ; : as 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 SOJOURN AT PENGELENGAN, IN THE PREANGER REGENCIES. 
 
 Leave Buitenzorg for the Preanger Regencies—Journey to Bandong in a 
 post-cart—Bandong—Thence to Pengelengan—Visit to the famous 
 Cinchona Gardens of the Government—Plant-life in the surrounding 
 mountains—The Upas-tree—Crater flora—Land slips and the 
 power of rain—Interesting birds—The Badger-headed Mydaus—The 
 Banteng, or wild cattlek—Wild dogs—Leave Pengelengan for Batavia 
 
 APPENDIX To Part II. 
 
 PART ITI. 
 IN SUMATRA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 SOJOURN IN THE LAMPONGS. 
 
 Leave Batavia for Telok-betong—Lampong Bay—Telok-betong—Leave 
 for Gedong-tetahan—Forest scenery by the way—KEscape from a 
 tiger—Flowers in the forest—Gedong-tetahan—Birds and insects 
 there—Move to Kotta-djawa—The village—Ruthless destruction of 
 the forest—Trees—Entomological treasures—Move to Gunung ‘Trang 
 —The pepper trade—Birds there—Interesting butterflies 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 SOJOURN IN THE LAMPONGS (continued). 
 Move towards the Tengamus Mountain—Butterflies found on the journey 
 
 thither—Tiohmomon—The Balai, a characteristic institution—De- 
 scent of the Lampongers—Their language—Divisions of the province 
 
 PAGE 
 
 66 
 
 105 
 
 118 
 
 125 
 
CONTENTS. x1 
 
 PAGE 
 —Titles and dignities—Ornaments—Festivities and amusements— 
 Marriage customs—Move to Penanggungan—Petroleum and paraffin 
 matches — Penanggungan — Great trees—Interesting plants and 
 animals—The Siamang—Move to Terratas—Ascent of the Ten- 
 ‘gamus Mountain—lIts flora and fauna—Return to Penanggungan and 
 to Batavia ee ‘s - “ a on ' ALO 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY. 
 
 From Batavia to Anjer—Return to Telok-Betong—Proceed to Beneawang 
 —Leave this for the Blalau region—Camp at Sanghar—Camp in the 
 forest—Phosphorescent display —Camp again in forest—Reach Bumi- 
 padang—Pass on to Batu-brah—Description of the village—Move on 
 to Kenali—Description of the village—Proceed to Hoodjoong—De- 
 scription of the village—Its tobacco industry—Its rice-fields—Plant- 
 ing and reaping—Superstitions—Goitre—Fauna and flora of the 
 Besagi voleano—Birds and insects of the neighbourhood .. Poe LOL 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY (continued), 
 
 Leave Hoodjong—Denudation—Great arums—Sukau—Chiefs of the 
 Ranau region—Tandjon-djati on the Ranau Lake—The bigh tempera- 
 ture of the water—Birds, fishes, interesting insects—Banding Agong 
 —To Muara Dua— Through Kisam — Geological notes —Kisam 
 villages—Coat of arms—Writing, dress, religion of Kisam people .. 174 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY (continued), 
 
 From Gunung Megang—Luntar—A surprise—River Ogan—Curious 
 hills—Ornamental carving—A village fair—A cock-fight—Into the 
 Inim Valley—Muara Inim—Lahat—-Passumah Lands—Ceremonial 
 formulas—The people—Marriage ceremonies—Illegitimate births— 
 Religion—Death superstitions and rites—Sculptured stones—Inter- 
 esting visit from Bencoolen men ewer Na: ds Tacit aa Be aU Lek 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY (continued). 
 
 Passumah Lands (contd.)—The Volcano of the Dempo—lts flora and 
 fauna—The crater—Spectre of the Brocken—The view from the 
 summit—Leave for the Kaba Volcano—Gunung Meraksa—River 
 journey on a raft—Lampar—Find again the spider Ornithoscatoides 
 decipiens—Batupantjeh—A marriage scene—Games of the boys— 
 Houses—Tebbing-T inggi—Tandjong-ning—Great trees—My co 
 attacked by a tiger—Its wiliness—Its capture—Graveyard .. 206 
 
xii CONTENTS. 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY (continued). 
 PAGE 
 Leave Tandjong-Ning—Padang Ulak-Tandjong—Kepala Tjurup—Hot 
 springs of the Kaba—Earthquake—Botanical features —Curious 
 plants—Fertilisation of Melastoma—A_ pilgrimage—The crater of 
 the Kaba—The nomadic Kubus—Rupit river scenery—Gold- 
 gatherers—Muara-rupit—The Durian—Surulangun—Thieves and 
 thieves’ calendars—Malay dignity—Leave for Muara Mengkulem.. 225 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY (continued). 
 
 Muara Mengkulem—Refused entrance into the Djambi Sultanate—Napal 
 Litjin—Peak of Karang-nata—Geological formation—Botanical 
 features—Birds—Hemipteron milked by ants—Rakit life—Bigin- 
 telok—Water roads—An escape from drowning—Pau—River squall 
 —Approach to Palembang—River life and its massive joy—The 
 town of Palembang—Return to Batavia - se ee «> yab0 
 
 APPENDIX TO Part III. .. - a is -s i o, eee 
 
 PART IV. 
 IN THE MOLUCCAS AND IN TIMOR-LAUT. 
 
 CHAPTER I, 
 
 FROM JAVA TO AMBOINA. 
 
 Sojourn in Buitenzorg, Java—Leave for Amboina accompanied by my 
 wife—Friends on board—Call at Samarang and Sourabaya in Java— 
 Macassar in Celebes—Bima in Sumbawa—Larantuka in Flores— 
 Cupang and Dilly in Timor—Banda, the island of nutmeg gardens... 283 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 AMBOINA, 
 
 Amboina—Reception by Mr. Resident Riedel—Delay—Visit interior of 
 Amboina—Paso—Move to Wai—The people there—The flora and 
 fauna—Return to Amboina .. os °° ee we .« 288 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 FROM AMBOINA TO TIMOR-LAUT. 
 
 Leave for Timor-laut—Saparua—Curious village and atoll of Gessir— 
 New Guinea—Aru—Ké—Timor-laut—First impressions—New birds 
 and butterflies—State of siege—Negotiate for a house—Language— 
 Our barter goods 3 m as # os as a 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 SOJOURN IN TIMOR-LAUT. 
 
 The natives—Hair and coiffures—Vanity—Stature and living characte- 
 ristics — Cranial characters — Clothing—Tjikalele dance — Arms— 
 Marriage — Artistic skill—Individuai and moral character—Treat- 
 ment of their children—Games—F'ne figures—Graves—Good butter- 
 fly resorts 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 SOJOURN IN TIMOR-LAUT (continued). 
 
 Religion and superstitions—Visit to Waitidal—Barter for a skull—Send 
 my hunters to the northern islands of the group—Climate of Timor- 
 laut—A mauvais quart @hewre—Designation of the group—Geo- 
 graphical and geological features ,. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 SOJOURN IN TIMOR-LAUT (continued). 
 
 Natural History—Flora—Disaster to Herbarium—Fauna—Mimicking 
 birds—Insects—Fever and failure of supplies—Anxious waiting for 
 
 steamer—Arrival of SS. Amboina—Leave Timor-laut for Amboina 
 APPENDIX To ParTIV. .. re oe , a Se 3 
 PART V. 
 
 IN THE ISLAND OF BURU. 
 
 ———_— 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 FROM KAJELI TO THE LAKE, 
 
 From Amboina to Buru—Kajeli—Trade of Kajeli—Birds—River A pu— 
 Wai Bloi village—Village of Wai Gelan—The Matakau—Forced 
 encampments—Wai Klaba—A Pomalied mountain—Wasilale— 
 Hospitable reception—Houses—Musical performance—Pomali signs 
 —Arrive at Laha er - 
 
 Xi 
 
 PAGE 
 
 298 
 
 307 
 
 334 
 
 340 
 
 391 
 
X1V CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 AT LAKE WOKOLO. 
 
 The Lake—The people there—Garments—Cultivation—Arms and 
 accoutrements—Marriage—Death rites—Superstitions about the lake 
 —Explanation of its position and of the absence of fish in it—New 
 birds—Great disappointment—Return to Kajeli—Thence to Amboina 
 —Compelled to leave the Moluccas—A kind farewell—Leave for 
 
 Timor 
 APPENDIX TO PART VY. oe * es = as “ Rs 
 PART VI. 
 IN TIMOR. 
 CHAPTER I, 
 
 SOJOURN AT FATUNABA. 
 
 Arrival at Dilly—Dreadful effects of fever—Search for a site for a house 
 —The town of Dilly an ethnographical studio—Fatunaba—Our 
 residence—The enchanting view thence—Interesting birds and plants 
 —Difficulty with servants—Preparations for departure into the in- 
 terior—Dialects oe . se oy os : 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 ON THE ROAD TO BIBICGUGU, 
 
 Start tor the interior—Vegetation on the way—Roads—Camp on Erlura 
 —Mt. Tehula—Kelehoko and its flora—Pass a night under the eaves 
 of a native dwelling—Huts in trees—Bed of the River Komai—Pass 
 a night on Ligidoik mountain—Character of country—Valley of the 
 Waimatang Kaimauk—Singular scene—Unburied relatives—Burial 
 rites—Grave-sticks—Rites attending a. king’s death—Swangies— 
 Lose our way—Flora on Turskain mountain—Rajah of Turskain’s— 
 Botanical excursions—The rites of the sacred Luli and the choosing 
 of warriors—The Rajah + ; 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 IN THE KINGDOM OF BIBIGUGU. 
 
 Leave for Bibicueu—Bridles—A trio of Braves—War and its attendant 
 ceremonies—Rahomali—Luli ground—Bibicugu—Harvest fields— 
 Cultivation—Take the law into my own hands—Connubial rela- 
 tions— W aterfall—Birds— Herbarium—Disquieting news—Mount 
 Kabalaki—Move forward to Saluki—Native market—Description of 
 
 PAGE 
 
 401 
 409 
 
 415 
 
 427 
 
- 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 
 
 Red-haired race—Timorese a mixed race—Up the Makulala 
 River—Gold—Ceremonies of Sec tte at the eee 
 of Seluki’s ; 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 SOJOURN IN KAITLAKUK AND SAMORO. 
 
 I proceed to Fatuboi—River Motaai—Crystalline rocks—A weird village 
 
 —Rare additions to my herbarium—Butterflies—Move on to the 
 Rajah of Samoro’s—Vegetation by the way—Geological notes— 
 Penalties of theft—Samoro—Visit Sobale Peak—Botanising under 
 difficulties—Large Herbarium—Return to Samoro and leave for 
 Manuleo 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 RETURN TO EUROPE, 
 
 
 
 river—Rajah’s of Laicor—The Queen of Laclo—A hot ride—Geologi- 
 cal note—Matu—Metinaru—Salt marshes—A long night-ride— 
 Return to Dilly Palace—Extract from A ’s journal—Return to 
 Fatunaba—Fevers—Decide to return to Europe—Surprised by the 
 arrival of steamer—Regretful departure from Fatunaba—Revisit 
 Banda and Amboina— Menado — A lucky accident — Batavia — 
 Krakatoa—Home 
 
 
 
 APPENDIX TO PART VI. 
 
 INDEX % "3 
 
 XV 
 
 PAGE 
 
 449 
 
 468 
 
: 
 
 oh ee 
 
 .- 3 
 
 
 
 <7 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Mrs. Forses’ HonrY-EATER (WITH PERMISSION, FROM GOULD’s ‘ Brrps 
 
 PAGE 
 
 oF New GUINEA’) : : ° ; : : Frontispiece 
 FICUS RELIGIOSA, IN THE BoTANICAL GARDENS, Burrenzorae facing 10 
 Two FORMS OF THE NEST OF THE WEAVER-BIRD 5 : : ery 
 ABANDONED NEST-FOUNDATION . : 3 . ; : oS 
 A Brirp’s-EXCRETA-MIMICKING SPIDER. ; : : , = «Gt 
 NEST OF THE ZETHUS CYANOPTERUS ‘ : : : : a Wek 
 TRANSVERSE SECTION OF THE STEM OF MYRMECODIA TUBEROSA facing 79 
 YOUNG PLANT OF MYRMECODIA TUBEROSA ; 2 : q oO 
 Youne MyrMEcoDIA AND SECTION OF A SOMEWHAT OLDER ONE , ee L 
 Puasus Buumet, Fies. 1 to 8 : ; : : : . 86, 87, 88 
 SPATHOGLOTTIS PLICATA, Fies.9 to15 . : : : : 89, 90 
 ARUNDINA SPECIOSA, Fias. 16 to 22 : : : 7 01, 92,08 
 ERIA SP., NEAR TO HE. JAVENSIS, Fias. 23, 24 : : : 95 
 CurysocLossum sp., Fras. 25 to 264 ; : : : 4 94, 95 
 GOODYERA PROCERA, Fies. 27, 28 . : c : ; OG 
 EGG-SHAPED STONE FROM THE KARANG’S Gecce , : 98 
 EARTHENWARE Pots FROM " $5 : ; : 99, 100 
 Our Nicut-crossine or THE River Ts1TaARUM : facing 106 
 HEAD oF KERIVOULA JAVANA . § : abs 
 VILLAGE OF KoTTa-DJAWA . é : : : : Jacing 131 
 LAMPONG CHARACTERS : AN ILLUSTRATED PAGE FROM A NATIVE-WRITTEN 
 RoMANCE . : : : . 7 : ; Jacing 142 
 HEAD OF BUCEROS AND SECTION . ; . 3 : : mee 5a 
 VILLAGE OF KENALI . : ° ‘ ‘ : ‘ facing 168 
 VIEW NEAR THE VILLAGE OF HooDJoONG, LOOKING TOWARDS Mount 
 BESAGI : ‘ : : ‘ : ; , facing 170 
 Coat or ARMS IN THE VILLAGE OF PADJAR-BULAN . : ; GP 200 
 Tara BUBUR-TALAM . : : i ; ; 7 . 186 
 TaTA SIMBAR. . ; : : ; : ; Pee Loo 
 LooKING DOWN THE OGAN VALLEY FROM THE RIANG PEAK Jacing 186 
 Tata RAMO-RAMO : : : : : : : : Feet 
 Semimnpo Carvingc—OTar GAMOOLUNG—oN A HoUsE IN PENGAN- 
 DONAN ‘ ; . . ‘ ° ‘ ‘ elon 
 
 b 
 
xviii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PassuMAH BRACELETS OF SILVER, SHOWING THE ORNAMENTATION 
 DERIVED FROM THE YOUNG SHOOTS OF THE BAMBOO ; ; 
 MonouitH at TANGERWANGI, PassumMAH LANDS ; : ; ; 
 a DISINTERRED BY THE AUTHOR AT 'TANGERWANGI . , 
 
 SIDE-VIEW OF THE HEAD OF ONE OF THE FIGURES . ; : ; 
 New SPECIES OF BRUGMANSIA, OF THE FAMILY OF THE RAFFLESIACEE 
 Jacing 
 HovsE IN THE VILLAGE OF BATU-PANTJEH : : : or 
 My CoLLectToR KILLED BY A TIGER ; ; : ‘ 
 TIGER-TRAP ; ; ‘ ‘ ' : : ‘ 
 My Hot at tHe Hot Springs, Foot of THE KABA VOLCANO e 
 FLOWER (DIAGRAMMATIC) OF MELASTOMA (WITH THE KIND PERMISSION 
 OF THE PRopRIETORS oF Nature) . ; ; : . ° 
 KUBU MAN AND WOMAN, SKETCHED IN THE VILLAGE OF KoTTra Rapsa 
 - "3 s . SURULANGUN 
 FLOWER OF CURCUMA ZERUMBET, SHOWING ITS MODE OF FERTILISATION 
 VACCINIUM FORBESII . 7 ‘ : : 
 SoLoR ORNAMENTATION : ; : ; ; . : ; 
 NUTMEG-GATHERER’S COLLECTING-ROD  . ; : : 
 COIFFURES OF THE NATIVES OF TIMOR-LAUT . 
 INSTRUMENT FOR CRIMPING THE Harn. ; 
 ORNAMENTED BELT-BUCKLE . : ‘ 
 EARRING . : ‘ ’ ; : : : ‘ ; : 
 CARVED CoMB, ORNAMENTED WITH INLAID BONE P ; 
 ORNAMENTED CHALK-HOLDER ‘ : ; : - : ; 
 House In TIMOR-LAUT ; : : 5 ; : é 
 . : WITH RooF REMOVED TO SHOW THE INTERIOR . 
 SUSPENSORY CONTRIVANCE MADE OF PALM-LEAF : ; 
 GRAVE oF A NATIVE CHIEF . : : : : : 
 CARVED SUSPENSORY CONTRIVANCES ; ; : p 
 DUADILAH . : : : : ‘ Z , : ‘ 
 MAcHIK’s GROUND-THRUSH ( Gace machiki, Forbes) . Sacing 
 NoRM& FRONTALIS ET LATERALIS OF THE MALE BRACHYCEPHALIC 
 Sxvuut, No. 4 (WITH THE PERMISSION OF THE COUNCIL OF THE 
 ANTHROPOLOGICAL INSTITUTE) : : : : ; ‘ 
 NoRM FRONTALIS ET LATERALIS OF THE FEMALE DOLICHOCEPHALIC 
 SKkuuLL, No. 1 (WITH THE PERMISSION OF THE COUNCIL OF THE 
 ANTHROPOLOGICAL INSTITUTE) ; ; : ‘ : } 
 Upper SURFACE OF BILL or HETERANAX MUNDUS (WITH THE PERMISSION 
 OF THE COUNCIL OF THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY) . : é ; 
 Upper SURFACE OF BILL oF PIEZORHYNCHUS CASTUS (WITH THE PER- 
 MISSION OF THE COUNCIL OF THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY) : : 
 DIELIS LARATENSIS (WITH THE PERMISSION OF THE COUNCIL OF THE 
 ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY) . : . 
 MATAKAU . ; : ; : ; : ; : : : 
 Tne Hut-CiustTer, WASILALE, ON THE SLOPE OF THE GunuNG Dupa 
 
 Sacing 
 
 3 
 
 3) 
 
 PAGE 
 
 195 
 2C0 
 201 
 202 
 
 206 
 218 
 223 
 224 
 225 
 
 229 
 234 
 245 
 247 
 278 
 285 
 287 
 308 
 309 
 
 812 
 
 313 
 316 
 O17 
 018 
 olg 
 320 
 323 
 b24 
 027 
 OOF 
 
 344 
 
 345 
 359 
 359 
 
 382 
 095 
 
 ? 
 
 398 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 8: |GNALLING Pre. : : 
 
 TREE-HUTS WITH DEAD BoDIES SUSPENDED BELOW 
 SrrRoNGHOLD oF THE Dato or Savo . 
 _ GRAVE-STICK IN THE HomEsTEAD oF Savo 
 Looxine Towarps Carr Luca, rrom Brsigugu 
 _ Hovsi-cLusTER IN THE Krnepom oF Brpigucu . 
 View IN THE SeraRaTa VALLEY, Brbigugu 
 , ORNAMENTED ComsB 
 _ ORNAMENTATION ON SMALL Bara 
 ‘Natives or Brsigugu, Fres. 1 to 4 
 i Kuno 
 
 74 
 Ss 
 
 ; 
 
 XiX 
 
 PAGE 
 facing 402 
 ny 405 
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 465, 466 
 
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LIST OF MAPS. 
 
 eee iter e: 
 Map or EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, TO SHOW AUTHOR’S ROUTE facing 
 Map or KEELING ISLANDS . : : : ; : 9 
 Map or SoutH SUMATRA ; : ’ : ; : <a 
 Map oF TENIMBER ISLANDS OR TIMOR-LAUT ; : «es 
 
 SketcH Map or GEroGRAPHICAL RELATIONS OF THE TENIMBER GROUP 
 (WITH THE KIND PERMISSION OF THE COUNCIL OF THE ANTHRO- 
 POLOGICAL INSTITUTE) . : ; : : ; : : 
 
 KRAKATAU BEFORE AND AFTER THE ERUPTION oF AuGusT 1883 (FROM 
 THE ‘ PROCEEDINGS OF THE RoyAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY,’ WITH 
 KIND PERMISSION) . : s . ‘ : ‘ ‘ ‘ 
 
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 368 
 
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 Eee rl > I 
 
 IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 
 
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A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 IN THE 
 
 HKASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 IN BATAVIA AND BUITENZORG. 
 
 Arrival in Batavia—First impressions—Buitenzorg and its Botanical 
 Gardens. 
 
 On the 8th October, 1878, I embarked at Southampton on 
 board the Royal Dutch Mail steamer Celebes, for Batavia, 
 on a long-dreamt-of visit to the tropical regions of the globe. 
 There is little of interest or novelty to record nowadays of a 
 voyage to the Hast. The most stay-at-home is familiar with 
 this ocean highway. 
 
 The home-come traveller, however, will be pleased to be 
 reminded of that pleasant picture nestling between the 
 Burlings and the Arabida hills—the stupendous and useless 
 convent of Mafra, the sharp turrets and bristling peaks of 
 Cintra, and the flashing towers and white buildings of Lisbon, 
 rising from the banks of the river. Notwithstanding all I 
 had read of Wallace and of Bates, I was going out full of 
 extravagant ideas of tropical blossoms; and had little idea, 
 as I rounded the cape of Gibraltar, leaving to the north of 
 me purple hills of heather, scarlet fields of poppies, and rich 
 parterres starred with cistus and orchids, with anemones 
 and geraniums, and sweet with aromatic shrubs and herbs. 
 that I would encounter nothing half so rich or bright amid 
 all the profusion of the “ summer of the world.” 
 
 It will please him to have recalled the Straits of Messina, 
 
 B2 
 
4 A NATURALIST’S WANDERING S 
 
 bathed in sunlight, its little villages with their olive groves 
 and vineyards slumbering at the mouth of chasm-like gorges, 
 winding away up amongst the mountains which ruggedly 
 overshadow them. 
 
 In crossing the Mediterranean, we gave a lift to tired wag- 
 tails and swallows, to a goat-sucker and a fly-catcher, and 
 carried them into Port Said. The squalor of that town, the 
 barrenness of the canal shores and the arid bareness of Aden 
 were a splendid offset to the verdure just ahead of us. In the 
 Indian Ocean our friendly yard-arms gave a rest to several 
 bee-eaters (Merops philippinus), to a chat and to little flocks of © 
 swallows before we sighted the Maldive and Laccadive coral 
 Archipelagoes. [‘ar ahead on the horizon their islets looked 
 like a group of bouquets set in marble-rimmed vases; but as 
 we approached, the vase rims changed into the surf of the sea 
 breaking on the iveef to feed its builders, and the bouquets 
 into clumps of cocoa-palms, iron-wood, and other trees which 
 the currents of the sea have washed together, and the passing 
 winds and wandering birds have carried thither to deck these 
 lone homes of the ocean fowl, which came fighting in our 
 wake for the scraps that fell from our floating table. 
 
 Holding on east by southward for a few days more, a hazy 
 streak appeared on our horizon, and my eyes rested on the 
 first of the Malayan islands—on the distant peaks of Sumatra. 
 We anchored at Padang for a day, and, in sailing southward 
 along its coast, I could not admire sufficiently the magnificence 
 of that island—its great mountain chain running parallel 
 to the coast, and rising into smoking peaks, clad with forest to 
 the very crater rims,—which later I found to be all that I had 
 pictured it from the sea, and more. 
 
 On the morning of the second day, we entered the Sunda 
 Straits, that narrow water-pass by the opening of which between 
 Java and Sumatra, Nature has laid under grateful tribute all 
 Cape-coming and -going mariners through the Java Sea to and 
 from the Archipelago or Chinese ports. Dotted about.in this 
 narrow channel, were low picturesque islands and solitary cones 
 of burnt-out craters, towering sheer up to a height of from two 
 to three thousand feet, all clothed in vegetation. Prominent 
 among the latter stood out the sharp cone of Krakatoa, whose 
 name will scarcely be forgotten by our generation at least, and 
 
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 5 
 
 
 
 will live longer in the sorrowful remembrance of the inhabitants 
 of the shores of the strait. The appalling catastrophe of 
 August the 27th, 1883, would, however, sink into insignifi- 
 cance, if compared with that which, while this was still an 
 undiscovered sea, must have withdrawn the foundations of the 
 land over which the strait now flows. 
 
 On our right the Java coast lay in a series of beautiful 
 amphitheatre slopes, laid out in coffee-gardens and rice- 
 terraces ; on our left were the more distant Sumatra shores cut 
 into large and beautiful bays between long promontories, on the 
 easternmost of which stood out the high dome of Raja-basa. 
 Rounding St. Nicholas Point, we sailed eastward among the 
 tree-capped Thousand Islands. The coast of Java, on our 
 right, presented a singular appearance, for, for miles into the 
 interior it seemed elevated above the level of the sea scarcely 
 more than the height of the trees that covered it. Nothing 
 could be seen save the sea fringe of vegetation in front of a 
 ereen plain, behind which rose the hills of Bantam and the 
 Blue Mountains, as the old mariners called the peaks of 
 Buitenzorg. 
 
 Late in the afternoon of the 17th of November, the Celebes 
 dropped her anchor in Batavia Roads, one of the greatest centres 
 of commerce in all these seas, amid a fleet flying the flags 
 of all nations. I had reached my destination; but, scan the 
 shore as I might, I failed to detect anything like a town or even 
 a village, only a low shore with a fringe of trees whose roots 
 the surf was lazily lapping. As we approached the land in 
 the steam tender, into which we were at length transferred, 
 the shore opened out, and disclosed the mouth of a canal, 
 leading to the town a long mile inland. A traveller, dropped 
 down here by chance, might, from these canals, make a very 
 good guess at the nationality of the dominant power in the 
 island, for these placid water-roads are as dear to the heart of 
 the Hollander as heather-hills to a Highlander. 
 
 On stepping off the mail, I said good-bye to western life 
 and ways, and entered on others new and strange to me, 
 exciting my curiosity, full of fascination, even bewildering, 
 recalling the confused sensations of my first boyish visit to 
 the capital. ven in the canal, the first aspects of life were 
 intensely interesting. Here and there a fishing-boat passed 
 
6 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 
 
 us, novel in cut and rig, decked with flowers at the prow, 
 rowed out to sea by some ten or twelve dusky fishers, singing 
 an intermittent song, timed to the rattle of their heavy oars 
 in the rowlocks; a little further on, we glided past a fleet of 
 gaily painted craft, Malay, Chinese, and Arab, lying at anchor 
 under the canal wall, their occupants, in bright-coloured cali-. 
 coes, lounging in unwonted attitudes about their decks. 
 
 Before we had moored by the side of the Custom-house, it 
 was quite dark, so that our landing was effected under some 
 difficulty, amid the usual and necessary din and confusion, 
 and amid a very Babel of foreign tongues, of which not a 
 syllable was intelligible to me, save here and there a 
 Portuguese word still recognisable, even after the changes of 
 many centuries—veritable fossils bedded in the language of a 
 race, where now no recoliection or knowledge of the peoples 
 who left them exists. 
 
 By dint of the universal language of signs, I got myself and 
 baggage at last transferred to a carriage, drawn by two small 
 splendidly running ponies, of a famous breed from the island 
 of Sumbawa. After a drive of between two and three miles, 
 through what seemed an endless row of Chinese bazaars 
 and houses, remarkable mostly, as seen in the broken lamp- 
 hight, for their squalor and stench, before which their occu- 
 pants sat smoking and chatting, I at length emerged into 
 a more genial atmosphere, and into canal and tree-margined 
 streets, full of fine residences and hotels, very conspicuous by 
 the blaze of light that lit up their pillared and marbled fronts. 
 
 Taking up my quarters at the Hotel der Nederlanden, I had 
 to be content with an uncurtained shake-down on the floor of 
 the room of one of my fellow passengers, as every bed in the 
 hotel was occupied. Next morning, to every one’s surprise, 
 I arose without a single mosquito bite, evidently mosquito- 
 proof. Tro my unspeakable comfort and advantage, I re- 
 mained absolutely so during my whole sojourn in the East, 
 and was thus relieved of the necessity of burdening myself 
 with furniture against these, or any other insect pests whatever. 
 
 When the chaotic confusion of my first impressions of 
 Batavia had become reduced to order, I found that it consisted 
 of an old and a new town. ‘The old town lies near the strand ; 
 is close, dusty, and stifling hot, standing scarcely anything 
 
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 7 
 
 
 
 above the sea-level. It contains the Stadthouse, the offices of 
 the Government, with the various consulates and banks, all 
 convenient to the wharf and the Custom-house, situated along 
 the banks of canals, which intersect the town. in every 
 direction. Round this European nucleus cluster the native 
 village, the Arab and the Chinese “ camps.” 
 
 Of Chinamen, Batavia contains many thousands of inhabi- 
 tants, and, without this element, she might almost close her 
 warehouses, and send the fleet that studs her roads to ride in 
 other harbours; for every mercantile house is directly dependent 
 on their trade. They are almost the sole purchasers of all the 
 wares they have to dispose of. They rarely purchase except on 
 credit, and a very sharp eye indeed has to be kept on them 
 while their names are on the firm’s books, for they are invete- 
 rate, but clever scoundrels, ever on the outlook for an oppor- 
 tunity to defraud. In every branch of trade, the Chinaman is 
 absolutely indispensable, and, despite his entire lack of moral 
 attributes, his scoundrelism and dangerous revolutionary ten- 
 dencies, he must be commended for his sheer hard work, his 
 indomitable energy and perseverance in them all. There is 
 not a species of trade in the town, except, perhaps, that of 
 bookseller and chemist, in which he does not engage. Many 
 of them possess large and elegantly fitted up tokos or shops, 
 filled with the best European, Chinese, and Japanese stores ; 
 their workmanship is generally quite equal to European, and 
 in every case they can far undersell their Western rivals. 
 
 The Arab, who like the Chinaman is prevented because of 
 his intriguing disposition from going into the interior of the 
 island, does, in a quiet and less obtrusive way, a little shop- 
 keeping and money-lending, but is oftener owner of some sort 
 of coasting craft, with which he trades from port to port, or 
 to the outlying islands. 
 
 The natives of the town—that is, coast Malays and Sun- 
 danese—perform only the most menial work; they are vehicle 
 drivers, the more intelligent are house servants, small traders, 
 and assistants to the Chinese, but the bulk are coolies. ‘They 
 have. no perseverance, and not much intelligence; and are 
 very lazy, moderately dishonest, and inveterate gamblers, but 
 otherwise innocuous. 
 
 This was the Batavia — fatal-climated Batavia — of past 
 
8 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 days. In this low-lying, close and stinking neighbourhood, 
 devoid of wholesome water, scorched in the daytime, and 
 chilled by the cold sea fogs in the night, did the Hastern 
 merchant of half-a-century ago reside, as well as trade. Out 
 of this, however, if he survived the incessant waves of fever, 
 cholera, small-pox, and typhoid, he returned home in a few 
 years, the rich partner of some large house, or the owner of a 
 great fortune. 
 
 All this is changed now. Morning and evening, the train 
 whirls in a few minutes the whole European population— 
 which tries, in vain, to amass fortunes like those of past times 
 —to and from the open salubrious suburbs, the new town, of 
 fine be-gardened residences, each standing in a grove of trees 
 flanking large parks, the greatest of which, the King’s Plain, 
 has each of its sides nearly a mile in length. Here the 
 Governor-General has his official Palace—his unofficial resi- 
 dence being on the hills at Buitenzorg, about thirty miles to 
 the south of Batavia; and here are built the barracks, the clubs, 
 the hotels, and the best shops, dotted along roads shaded by 
 leafy Hibiscus shrubs, or by the Poinciana regia, an imported — 
 Madagascar tree, which should be seen in the end of the year, 
 when its broad spreading top is one mass of orange-red 
 blossoms, whose falling petals redden the path, as if from 
 the lurid glare of a fiery canopy above. To these pleasant 
 avenues, in the cool of the evening, just after sunset, and 
 before the dinner-hour, all classes, either driving or on foot 
 resort for exercise and friendly intercourse. 
 
 In front of the barracks, another fine park, the Waterloo 
 Plain, is ornamented by a tall column, surmounted by a 
 rampant lion, with an inscription to commemorate the prowess 
 of the Netherlanders in winning the battle of Waterloo. A 
 remark, perhaps not quite fair, of a Ceylon friend on view- 
 ing the pillar and its long inscription: “The lon at the top 
 is not more conspicuous than the lyin’ at the bottom!” 
 
 Having been furnished, through the kind influence of 
 Professor Suringar, of Leyden, with an autograph letter of 
 recommendation from His Excellency the then Minister for 
 the Colonies, to the Governor-General of the Netherlands’ 
 Indies, I proceeded, very shortly after my arrival, to Buiten- 
 zorg, for the purpose of presenting it. From His Excellency 
 
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 9 
 
 I received most favourable letters of commendation to all in 
 authority under his jurisdiction, and parted with the expres- 
 sion of his warm interest and best wishes. 
 
 Buitenzorg is one of the chief holiday and health resorts of 
 sick Batavians, and possesses not only a magnificent climate, 
 but scenery of great beauty and picturesqueness. It is 
 overlooked by two large and at present harmless volcanic 
 mountains, the Salak with its disrupted cone, into whose very 
 heart one looks by the terrible cleft in its side, and the double- 
 peaked Pangerango and Gede, from whose crater is ever 
 lazily curling up white vapoury smoke from the simmering 
 water which at present fills the summit of its pipe. Besides 
 the fine views to be had in its neighbourhood, Buitenzorg is 
 chiefly remarkable for its botanic garden, perhaps the finest 
 in the world, which surrounds the Governor’s palace, and in 
 which many weeks might be profitably and delightfully spent 
 by the botanist. 
 
 To Mr. Teysmann, who died but recently, after some sixty 
 years of unbroken service in it, the garden is largely in- 
 debted for the actual ingathering of the bulk of its treasures. 
 Tor fifty years he was engaged in collecting through the 
 islands of the Archipelago; and some of the rarest and finest 
 specimens in it, brought as seeds by him, he had the satisfaction 
 of seeing develop into the grandest of its trees. 
 
 A long wide avenue of Kanarie (Canarium commime) trees 
 traverses the centre of the garden, which interlacing high 
 overhead in a superb leafy canopy, affords at all hours of the 
 day a delightful promenade. Near the principal entrance a 
 tall Amherstia nobilis forms in the rainy season, when it is 
 ablaze with immense scarlet flower-trosses and plumes of young 
 leaves of the richest brown, a remarkable object of beauty. On 
 the right the garden descends to its boundary stream through 
 arboreta of Buteas, Cassias, Calliandras, Tamarinds, and Poin- 
 cianas, to groves of Bromeleads and tall Cactacex, Pandans, 
 Nipas, Cycads and climbing Screw-pines; to plots of Ama- 
 ryllidex, Iris and water-loving plants; and beneath the richest 
 palmetum in the world, its glory perhaps the Cyrtostachys 
 renda, whose long bright scarlet leaf sheaths and flower- 
 spathes, and its red fruit and deep yellow inflorescence hanging 
 side by side, at once arrest the eye. 
 
10 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 ordering the stream is quite a little forest of oaks, laurels 
 and figs, many of them yet unknown to science, merging in a 
 long, dark, tunnel-like corridor of banyan trees. In a dense 
 clump affixed to tall tree ferns and Cambodias, whose white, 
 heavy-odoured flowers entirely carpeted the ground, were 
 thousands of orchids from all countries, most of them blossom- 
 ing as profusely as in their native habitat, except a few of 
 the higher and cooler-living New World species, such as the 
 Cattleyas, which gradually dwindle away and die out in a few 
 years. More strangely, the native Phalcenopses (amalilis and 
 grandiflora) refuse to thrive in the gardens, 750 feet above 
 the sea, while in Batavia few plants flower so luxuriantly as 
 they do. 
 
 On the left of the central walk there are two remarkable 
 avenues; the one of stately Brazilian palms, the Oreodoxa 
 oleracea, whose globular base and smooth ringed stems, were as 
 straight and symmetrical as if turned in a lathe, and in their 
 whiteness contrasted markedly with the deep green of the leaf 
 sheaths and crown of foliage ; the other of bamboos, remarkable. 
 for the number and luxuriance of its species. The curious root- 
 erowing Rafflesias, the Amorphophallus titanum, a giant arum, 
 and the Teysmannia altefrons, a rare broad-leafed palm, from 
 Sumatra, and others as rare, which would require too long a list 
 to enumerate, were to be studied here. My daily morning 
 round of the garden invariably terminated in a seat under an 
 umbrageous india-rubber tree, in front of which a fountain 
 played into a circular pond dotted with blue and white flowers 
 of water-lilies and Victoria regias. In the sparkling light of 
 the early sun it was the most charming of spots for a rest. 
 
‘SUOZNALING ‘SNACUVD 'IVOINVLOA GHG NI vs02be01 sno. 
 09 abnd a0nf of 
 
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 . 3 dadigtes < sp ARS 
 abies Se tk er EP ge 
 
 
 

 
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. I] 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 SOJOURN IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 
 
 Start for the Cocos-Keeling Islands—In the Straits of Sunda—An unex- 
 pected pilot —Arrival—History of the colony there—Terrible cyclones— 
 Home life of the colonists now—The reef and its builders—Fishes in the 
 Be 0 and their operations—Plant life—Insect life—Mammals 
 — Birds. 
 
 THE end of the year 1878 was noted for its very heavy rains, 
 which in the month of December were at their worst. Trans- 
 port and travel were not only difficult, but in many districts 
 impossible. Just as I was getting rather puzzled as to how 
 to get away anywhere out of Batavia, I learned that a small 
 sailing craft, on which I was offered a passage, was on the point 
 of leaving for the Cocos-Keeling Islands. With this outlying 
 spot, made famous by Mr. Darwin’s visit in 1836, I was 
 familar from his ‘Coral Reefs.’ It did not, therefore, take me 
 long to decide to accept an offer which was as gratifying as it 
 was unexpected. 
 
 After a wearisome fight of fourteen days with the Monsoon 
 wind at the entrance of the Sunda Straits, we succeeded in 
 reaching the little village of Anjer, where we stopped a day to 
 replenish our failing stores of provisions, and to eat our New 
 Year’s feast in the picturesque inn there, whose verandah 
 commanded a delightful view of the island-studded strait and 
 of the rugged mountains of Sumatra on the other side. The 
 wind, which had opposed us so persistently, had on the day we 
 again set sail subsided altogether, and it was with the greatest 
 difficulty that we could haul clear off the land. Day after day 
 brought us a monotonous calm. 
 
 It was something, however, that at this season the forest 
 along the slowly passing shores and isles was in the full burst 
 of spring, when it wears in the morning light its most charming 
 aspect, of surpassing beauty to my novitiate eyes; the piping 
 
12 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 mid-day alone was ungrateful, almost unbearable, exposed to 
 the sun, as we were, without awning or protection ; the evening 
 sunsets were scenes to be remembered for a lifetime. The tall 
 cones of Sibissie and Krakatoa rose dark purple out of an un- 
 ruffled golden sea, which stretched away to the south-west, where 
 the sun went down; over the horizon grey fleecy clouds lay in 
 banks and streaks, above them pale blue lanes of sky, alternating 
 with orange bands, which higher up gave place to an expanse 
 of red stretching round the whole heavens. Gradually as the 
 sun retreated deeper and deeper, the sky became a marvellous 
 golden curtain, in front of which the grey clouds coiled them- 
 selves into weird forms before dissolving into space, taking 
 with them our last hope that they might contain a breeze, and 
 leaving us at rest on the placid water, over which shoals of 
 water-bugs (of the genus Halobates probably) glided, covering 
 its surface with circles like gentle rain-drop rings; there was 
 not a sound to break the silence save the plunge of a porpoise 
 or the fluck of the fishes in quest of their evening meal. 
 Perhaps these rich after-glows were due to the Kaba eruption 
 then going on in Mid-Sumatra. 
 
 One day, we passed a large log in the sea floating in the 
 current, to which numerous little crabs were clinging, on their 
 way, perhaps, to colonise some new and distant shore. 
 
 On the afternoon of the sixteenth day of weary beating from 
 Anjer, a pure white tern suddenly appeared, and, circling about 
 the vessel, produced quite a flutter of excitement. It was the 
 lovely Gygis candida, one of the Keeling Island birds, which 
 our native boatswain declared never went far from home, and 
 that we must, therefore, be near our destination. | 
 
 Several of the sailors ran aloft, and in a few minutes 
 descried to the northward the crowns of the higher cocoa- 
 nut palms on the southern islands. We straightway changed 
 our course ; for our skipper had evidently miscalculated our 
 noon position, and, but for this timely pilot, would have sailed 
 past in the night. At sundown the islands appeared from the 
 deck as a dark uneven line, rising little above the horizon ; at 
 ten o'clock we cautiously sailed in to the anchorage in the 
 lagoon, lighted through by the phosphorescence from shoals of 
 large fishes, which darted like rockets from below our keel. 
 
 The scene that met my eyes next morning was a curious 
 
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. i3 
 
 
 
 one: a calm lake like sea enclosed by a palisade of palm trees 
 on a narrow riband of land. My first feelings were those of 
 surprise at the size of the atoll; for it was very much smaller 
 than the mental picture I had formed of it from studying 
 the Admiralty chart, and then of wonder that such a speck 
 could hold its own against the relentless ocean, which seemed 
 as if it might wash it away in any angry moment. 
 
 To form by personal observation more clear ideas of coral 
 formation, and chiefly to note how the struggle between the 
 reef-makers and the waves had been going during the past 
 forty-three years, and perhaps the pride of saying I had 
 lived on a reef, being the objects of my coming, no amount 
 of dissimilarity from conceived ideas could disappoint me, or 
 cause me to regret my visit; but I could not help thinking 
 that it was a woe-begone spot to choose for a perpetual home, 
 and a limited field to expend one’s energies on. 
 
 Mr. G. C. Ross, the proprietor, shortly came on board, and 
 with the most hearty greeting welcomed me; he rowed me 
 ashore, and, without power of gainsay, installed me as guest in 
 his comfortable home, for I was the first Huropean who, not 
 by compulsion of weather or other disaster, but really of set 
 purpose, had during that period visited his island. We sat 
 far into the night talking together, and I scarcely know which 
 of us seemed most eager to learn. The rapid question and 
 reply shot between us incessantly to the early hours, and as 
 we sat and talked, it was with an eerze feeling that I felt the 
 very foundations of the land thrill under my feet at every dull 
 boom of the surf on the outward barrier—I conveying to my 
 host’s household all that was strangest and most interesting 
 from the busy centres of civilisation, in politics (a far ery to 
 them), in discovery and in invention, all that was newest from 
 the outer and, to them, far-off world; he relating to me the 
 thrilling domestic annals of his island domain. 
 
 Half a century had elapsed since his grandfather, descended 
 of an old Scottish family wrecked in the troublous times of 
 1745, having brought an adventurous seafaring life to a close 
 in command of one of the vessels stationed in the Java Sea, 
 for the protection of British interests during our occupation 
 of that island, had landed in December, 1825, and virtually 
 taken possession of the group. His intention was to make 
 
14 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 the spot a call port for the repair and provisioning of 
 vessels voyaging between home and China, Australia, and 
 India. Without then taking up residence, he proceeded to 
 England, but returned in 1827 with his wife and family of six 
 children, accompanied by twelve Englishmen, one Javanese, 
 and one Portuguese. On landing he was surprised to find 
 another Englishman, Mr. Alexander Hare, in possession of a 
 third part of the group. This gentleman had held a govern- 
 ment post in South Borneo during the English supremacy in 
 the Sunda Islands; but having tried to assume the state of 
 an independent ruler, which on the reinstalment of Dutch 
 authority, he found himself unable to hold, he retired here 
 with a large harem of various nationalities and numerous 
 slaves, whom he treated with great harshness. 
 
 Mr. Ross, having brought out his English apprentices on an 
 understanding that, as the whole atoll was his own, there 
 would be, in the development of its resources, sufficient 
 outlet for their energies, was much discouraged by the turn 
 affairs had assumed. Hare exhibited a very unfriendly spirit 
 towards the new-comers, so that, on Mr. Ross offering his 
 people a release from their agreement, all, except three (a 
 woman and two men), took the first opportunity of leaving in 
 one of H.M. gunboats which touched at the islands. Ross 
 managed, however, to increase his party by seven or eight 
 persons from Java, and later on by additional Huropeans, some 
 of them his own relatives. With a large number of Sundanese 
 coolies, hired in Batavia, he opened a trade in cocoanuts with 
 the Mauritius, with Madras, and with Bencoolen and various 
 other ports of the Archipelago. 
 
 Possessed of a considerable fortune, Hare lived for some time 
 a lethargic life in mock regal style, in the midst of the con- 
 stant discord and jealousies of his retinue, and in-hostility to 
 his neighbour. For the protection of what he considered an im- 
 portantly situated island, and of his own rights, Ross solicited 
 the authorities in the Mauritius to take the group under their 
 protection—a responsibility they did not see it advisable to 
 assume. Hare, on the other hand, covertly instigated the 
 Dutch Government to claim possession, a suggestion which 
 the Batavian officials entertained only so far as to send a 
 gunboat to examine and report on the condition of the 
 
IN HE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 15 
 
 
 
 islands. Direct application was then made by Ross to King 
 
 William to proclaim the atoll English territory, but without 
 success. Hare, after several years of a most worthless sort 
 of existence, took his departure for Singapore, where it is said 
 he shortly after died. 
 
 Mr. Darwin’s visit took place not very long after Hare’s 
 departure, and just after the change of the settlement from 
 South-Eastern to New Selima Island and his report as to the 
 comfortable and flourishing state of the young colony at that 
 time is not very favourable. It was always a subject of keen 
 regret to Mr. Ross, that on Mr. Darwin’s visit, in 1836, he 
 was not at home. Mr. Leisk, who was in charge, showed Mr. 
 Darwin over the place, and gave him a great deal of infor- 
 mation, but though given in good faith, much of it was not 
 quite accurate. After a few years of peaceful and undisturbed 
 possession of the atoll, the whole of which Mr. Ross then laid 
 claim to, it attained to a most prosperous condition; and 
 its ships became well known throughout the Archipelago, 
 Ross himself being styled the King of the Cocos Islands. 
 Two villages were erected, one for the hired coolies, and the 
 other, a little way distant, for the Europeans and those who 
 threw in their lot with the new colony and were to share its 
 fortunes—the true Cocos colonists. This state of prosperity 
 was due mainly to the efforts of his eldest son—the father 
 devoting the closing years of his life chiefly to study.* Their 
 trade prospered and afforded a handsome annual balance 
 for many years, and altogether life seems to have been very 
 pleasant save for one element, the hired population. 
 
 The only coolies who could be got to engage to leave Java for 
 a term of years, were criminals who had served their time in the 
 chain-gangs of Batavia, and as they far outnumbered the Euro- 
 peans and colonists, and were capable of any atrocity, they were 
 a constant source of danger, and a heavy anxiety to those in 
 charge. Every night a strongly armed patrol of true Cocos 
 people had to mount guard from sunset to sunrise, and still 
 continues to do so, with military regularity and rigour, the 
 watches being struck, as on ship board, all through the night. 
 
 * By a curious mistake in the Royal Society’s Catalogue of Scientific 
 
 Papers, Mr. J. C. Ross’s criticism of Mr. Darwin’s ‘ Coral Reefs’ is attributed 
 to dir J. C. Ross, the Arctic explorer. 
 
16 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 From the amount of cocoa-nut husk, or coir, as well as from 
 the combustible nature of all the buildings and of the palm 
 trees themselves, incendiarism was the crime most feared at 
 the hands of the lawless. Consequently it was sternly enforced 
 that every individual should report himself at the guard-house 
 at a fixed hour; and that every fire should be quenched at 
 sunset. It was penal for anyone to spend the night on any 
 but the Home island, without express permission from the 
 captain of the guard. Hvery boat was numbered and had to 
 be in its place an hour before sunset ; if it were not, by tock of © 
 drum a muster was called, the absentees noted, and a search 
 instantly instituted, to bring back the defaulters or to render 
 aid in case of accident. — 
 
 Unsullied as their history began, it was not long till a 
 Black Calendar had to be added to their island archives. 
 Criminals invariably betook themselves to the concealment of 
 the forest-clad islets, where they could often elude capture 
 for weeks; but, unless they could steal a provisioned boat, | 
 which was almost impossible, they could get no further. 
 The tale of the restless dread and suspense which held the 
 whole community, when some mutineer, with the desperate 
 spirit of amok in him, was at large, and the exciting efforts to 
 effect and to elude capture, was a chapter, which demanded 
 little from the narrator’s art, to engage my sympathies and my 
 profound interest in this community, living its chequered life 
 so far from the sympathies of the world. 
 
 To prevent any temptation to robbery no coined money 
 is allowed on the atoll. ‘The currency is in sheep-skin notes 
 signed by Mr. Ross, which are good as between member and 
 member of the community. Wages are paid in these or 
 in goods and food articles brought regularly from Batavia, 
 while the notes are exchangeable for Dutch money in Batavia 
 on presentation to Mr. Ross’s agent. 
 
 On the 31st March, 1857, as a large inscribed board near 
 the landing place on Home island proclaims, Captain Fre- 
 mantle in H.M.S. Juno visited the Cocos Islands, and, after 
 the usual royal salute, declared them part of the British 
 dominions, and Mr. Ross (the father of the present proprietor) 
 their Governor during Her Majesty’s pleasure. The whole 
 was, it appears, a ludicrous mistake on the part of Captain 
 
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 17 
 
 Fremantle, for the island intended to be annexed was one of 
 the same name somewhere in the Andaman group! It is 
 gratifying, however, to know that the islands are after all 
 really British territory, for I myself carried down a copy of 
 the Proclamation in the Ceylon Gazette of November 1878, by 
 which the Cocos-Keeling Islands were annexed to the Govern- 
 ment of Ceylon, “to prevent any foreign power stepping in 
 and taking possession of them, for the purpose of settlement, 
 or fora coaling station,” as Russian agents, it was reported, had 
 been examining the locality with sinister views. 
 
 The islands being of extreme salubrity, the true Keeling 
 population, now mostly of mixed blood, had rapidly increased, 
 and they enjoyed unbroken prosperity till 1862, when a 
 cyclone in a few hours entirely wrecked their homes. The 
 present proprietor, the third in succession, then a student 
 of engineering in Glasgow, was hurriedly summoned to aid 
 his father in the restoration of the islands, a task he was 
 suddenly left alone to accomplish, when quite a young man, 
 by the death of his parent. Abandoning all the more 
 ambitious plans of his life, he gave himself up to the new 
 position which he had been so unexpectedly called to fill, and 
 with the warmest heartiness threw himself into all the interests 
 of the islanders. He devised and has carried out liberal plans 
 for their improvement, and for the advancement of those com- 
 mitted to his charge. Marrying a Cocos-born wife, who shared 
 his ideas and interests, they became the parents of the people 
 rather than their masters and rulers. 
 
 As rapidly as possible he rid himself of the chain-gang men, 
 and being able, by a change in the laws at Batavia, to obtain 
 coolies of the non-criminal class, he engaged only those of 
 the best character. He cleared off the remaining forest and 
 planted the ground with palms. Success attended his efforts. 
 At length he brought into the Indian Ocean the new sounds 
 of the puffing of steam mills, the whirring of lathes and saws, 
 and the clang of the anvil. The general education of the 
 children has been under a younger brother of Mr. Ross’s, 
 educated in a Scottish university. very Cocos man has had, 
 besides performing his ordinary duties of gathering nuts 
 and preparing oil—-which, exchanged in Batavia, returns as 
 gain, or the food which they cannot produce within their own 
 
 C 
 
18 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 bounds—to learn to work—and their proficiency astonished me 
 —in brass, iron and wood. LEvery Cocos girl has had her term 
 of apprenticeship to spend in Mrs. Ross’s house in learning 
 under her direction sewing, cooking, and every house-wifely 
 duty as practised in Huropean homes. I shall not soon 
 forget the deft handmaiden—female servants were employed 
 to do all the household work—who attended to my room; 
 she was a tall Papuan, who had been rescued from slavery, 
 now one of the true Cocos people, in whom all the grace of 
 body and limb that she inherited from her race had developed, 
 under the happy circumstances under which she had come, 
 into the perfection of the human female figure. She could not 
 have performed her work with more neatness and dexterity had 
 she been trained at home. With all the respect of a servant, she 
 mingled a kind solicitude in looking after my comfort and 
 attending to my wants, which as a daughter of the island to its 
 guest, she might without presumption use. A fresh rose was 
 daily laid on my pillow and on the folded-down counterpane, 
 while, that the water in my basin might seem fresher than its 
 sparkling self, she sprinkled it with fragrant rose leaves. 
 
 No more flourishing or contented community could have 
 been found at the opening of 1876, than its 500 island-born 
 inhabitants. On the 25th of January, however, the mercurial 
 barometer indicated some unusual atmospheric disturbance, 
 and the air felt extremely heavy and oppressive. On the 28th 
 it fell to close on 28 inches, a warning which gave time for 
 
 all boats to be hauled to a place of safety, and other prepara- — 
 
 tions for a storm to be made. On the afternoon of the same 
 day, there appeared in the western sky an ominously dark 
 bank of clouds, and at 4 p.m. a cyclone of unwonted fury burst 
 over this part of the Indian Ocean. The storehouses and 
 mills, but recently renewed, were completely gutted and de- 
 molished ; every house in both villages was carried completely 
 away. Among the palm-trees the wind seems to have played 
 a frantic and capricious devil’s dance. Pirouetting wildly 
 round the atoll, in some places it had cleared lanes hundreds 
 of yards in length, snapping off the trees close to the ground; 
 in others, it had swooped down, without making an entrance or 
 exit path, and borne bodily away large circular patches, leaving 
 
 unharmed the encircling trees; here and there, sometimes in 
 
 -. 2 tat 2 
 latte ee a 
 
SS ee _— 
 
 IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 19 
 
 
 
 ‘the centre of dense clumps, selecting a single stem—a thick 
 
 tree of thirty years’ growth—it had danced with it one light- 
 ning revolution, and left it a permanent spiral screw perfectly 
 turned, but otherwise uninjured. 
 
 About midnight of the 28th, when intense darkness would 
 have prevailed but for the incessant blaze of lightning, whose 
 accompanying thunder was drowned by the roar of the tempest, 
 when every one was endeavouring to save what rice—the only 
 provision spared to them—they could, Mr. Ross discovered to 
 his horror, the bowsprit of a vessel which had been lying at 
 anchor, riding on the top of a great wave straight for the wall 
 behind which they sheltered. There was just time to make 
 themselves fast before the water rushed over them, fortunately 
 without carrying the ship through the wall; a second wave 
 washed completely over the spot where Ross’s house had stood, 
 distant 150 yards from high-water mark. The storm attained 
 its height about one o'clock on the morning of the 29th. At that 
 hour nothing could resist the unsubstantial air, worked into a 
 fury; no obstacle raised a foot or two above the ground could 
 resist its violence. The inhabitants saved themselves only 
 by lying in hollows of the ground. To what distance the 
 barometer might have fallen, it is impossible to say, for the 
 mercurial was carried away, and two aneroids gave in at 
 264 inches. 
 
 The following morning broke bright and calm, as if the 
 tempestuous riot of the night might have been an evil dream, 
 only not a speck of green could be seen anywhere within the 
 compass of the islands. Round the whole atoll the solid coral 
 conglomerate floor was scooped under, broken up and thrown in 
 vast fragments on the beach. On the eastern shore of Home 
 Island, in particular just opposite the settlement, I observed 
 a wall of many yards breadth, portions of it thrown up clear 
 over the external high rim of the island, and several yards 
 inwards among the cocoanut trees, all along the margin of the 
 island. After six months, every tree and shrub was clothed 
 in verdure; and before three years, they were in full bearing 
 again. 
 
 About thirty-six hours after the cyclone the water on the 
 
 eastern side of the lagoon was observed to be rising up from 
 
 below of a dark colour. The origin of the spring, which 
 Cc 2 
 
20 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 continued to ooze out for about ten to fourteen days, lay some- 
 where between the southern end of New Selima and the 
 northern end of Gooseberry Island. The colour was of an inky 
 hue, and its smell “ like that of rotten eggs.” From this point 
 it spread south-westward as far as the deep baylet in South- 
 east Island, where meeting the currents, flowing in at the 
 westward and northern entrances, which run, the one round 
 the western, the other round the eastern shore of the lagoon, 
 its westward progress was stopped ; whereupon, turning north- 
 wards through the middle of the lagoon (becoming slightly 
 less dark as it proceeded), it debouched into the ocean by the 
 northern channel. Within twenty-four hours, every fish, coral 
 and molluse, in the part impregnated with this discolouring 
 substance—probably hydrosulphuric or carbonic acid—died. 
 So great was the number of fish thrown on the beach, that it 
 took three weeks of hard work to bury them in a vast trench 
 dug in the sand. 
 
 At the time of my visit, the islands were slowly recovering 
 from this sad disaster, and the whole settlement, living far from 
 the busy strife of the world, yet sufficiently mingling with 
 it to afford contentment without envy, seemed the ideal of a 
 peaceful and happy colony. Mr. Ross, who is associated with 
 several of his brothers, occupies a commodious and comfortable 
 house midway between the two villages, surrounded by a high 
 wall, enclosing a large garden in which fruit-trees and shrubs 
 —sow manilla (Mimusops), bananas, loquat (Hriobotrya), Poin- 
 cianas, and roses in grand profusion,—seem to flourish remark- 
 ably well, notwithstanding the scanty soil. Each Keeling 
 family possesses its own neat plank house, comfortably fur- 
 nished, enclosed in a little garden. Housed in a trim shed by 
 the water’s edge, each has one or more boats. These boats are 
 their pride; and so ardently do they vie with each other in 
 their speed, and in the elegance of their shape and furnishings, 
 that the village possesses a fleet of really masterpieces of boat 
 architecture. Living on the sea, as they do, they are all from 
 their birth naturally skilful sailors; and one of the pleasantest 
 reminiscences of my visit, is the sight of that little white- 
 sailed fleet beating home across the lagoon, in a sunny evening, 
 against a stiffish breeze. 
 
 It was exceedingly pleasant to observe the cordial and 
 
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 21 
 
 
 
 affectionate relations existing between The House and the Cocos 
 village. I noted little presents of first ripe fruit, or specially 
 large eggs constantly being offered. When a death occurs— 
 as one did during my visit—it is felt by each individual as if 
 the departed had been of his own family. The interment 
 takes place as soon as possible, and the usual vocations are 
 resumed at once, every one trying, as best he may, to seem as 
 if he had forgotten that they were one fewer. That in their 
 relations one with another there should be perfection, is not to 
 be expected, but a finer and more upright community I have 
 never known ; not a simpler or more guileless people—many 
 of whom have never known, and never seen a world wider than 
 their own atoll, which can be surveyed in a single glance of 
 the eye ; and I feel more than half confident that the English 
 Service for the Dead has been said over, and that beneath the 
 coral shingle of Grave Islet there rest, as blameless lives as 
 perhaps our weak humanity can attain to. 
 
 The labourers’ village is neatly kept, and though the coolies 
 live under a stricter régime, they are treated liberally and 
 kindly, and housed in comfortable dwellings. Their children 
 are educated along with the Cocos children. Shoulda head of 
 a family die, his children are, at the mother’s option, sent 
 back to their native place in Java, or if she elect, she and 
 they may throw in their lot with, and after a certain probation 
 become, Cocos people. Malay is the language spoken in both 
 villages, though many of the Cocos people understand English, 
 
 As this was my first acquaintance with living coral formation, 
 everything about me had the interest of novelty. My first 
 morning’s walk was to the seaward margin of the reef. As half 
 a century is hardly a day’s life in the existence of an atoll, Mr. 
 Darwin’s accurate description of that part of it might have 
 been written the day before. The waves so continually break 
 on the shore, that it is difficult, except on the very stillest 
 days, to examine the coral on the furthest margin; yet I got 
 every now and then, on the recoil of the waves, a good view of 
 the shoals of Scarus feeding in the surf on the living coral. 
 They are furnished on the front of their heads with soft pads, 
 _ so as to be able to retain their position undisturbed among the 
 breakers, by squeezing hard up against the uneven wall, while 
 they are gnawing off the tips of the living polyps. During 
 
22 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 my visit I had no very calm days ; but in the still waters of 
 the lagoon there was enough to occupy the busiest pair of eyes 
 for weeks. 
 
 The wonderful display of colour seen in the placid water of a 
 lagoon has been often described; but it can give to one, who 
 has not himself visited a coral reef, but a very slight idea of 
 the fairy bowers to be seen from over the side of a boat 
 eliding gently across the surface of such a marine lake. 
 
 I carefully examined that part of the lagoon over which the 
 poisoned water had spread, on a day when the water was so 
 calm that I could see the minutest objects on the bottom. Its 
 whole eastern half was one vast field of blackened and lifeless 
 coral stems, and of the vacant and lustreless shells of giant 
 clams and other Mollusca, paralysed and killed in all stages 
 of expansion. Everywhere both shells and coral were deeply 
 corroded, the coral especially being in many places worn down 
 to the solid base. Since the catastrophe, there had been, till 
 almost the date of my visit, no sign of life in that portion of 
 the lagoon; I saw very few fishes, and only here and there 
 a new branch of Madrepora and Porites. I found only one 
 tridacna alive (its three years’ growth being 12 inches in 
 length, and 13 in breadth). 
 
 That an earthquake certainly occurred on this reef, as 
 recorded by Mr. Darwin, two years before the visit of the 
 Beagle, is an interesting fact. ‘That an earthquake took place 
 in 1876, cannot, I think, judging from the tidal wave, be 
 doubted, although no tremor was detected by any one on the 
 island—scarcely to be wondered at during the war of the 
 elements.. The wave, as well as the darkened water which 
 issued, doubtless from a submarine rent, was almost certainly 
 the result of volcanic disturbance in the close vicinity. of the 
 atoll. Mr. Darwin has described a dead field of coral observed 
 by him, in the upper and south-east part, and has accounted 
 for it by assuming, from information given him by Mr. Leisk, 
 that S.E. island had been at one time divided into several 
 islets by channels, whose closing up had prevented the water 
 from rising so high in the lagoon as formerly; and that, 
 therefore, the corals, which had attained their utmost possible 
 limit of upward growth, must have been killed by occasional 
 exposure to the sun. 
 
IN THE COCOS-KEHELING ISLANDS. 23. 
 
 I examined the chart made by Ross in 1825, ten years 
 before Mr. Darwin’s visit, but it exhibited no perceptible 
 difference in the external configuration of the various islets. 
 The soundings in the lagoon, however, showed a greater 
 continuous depth at that time, and [ am told that his vessel 
 sailed, on her first coming, far up the bay, and anchored 
 where now no ship can nearly approach. It is more probable 
 that the explanation of this dead field lies in the supposition 
 that a like phenomenon to that just narrated accompanied the 
 earthquake of 1834. Beyond the boundary affected by the 
 dark water, the coral was unharmed, and growing vigorously 
 in thick bosses, (called “patches” by Mr. Darwin,) composed 
 chiefly of Madrepora and Pocillopora, between which were 
 basins of no great diameter, but reaching to a depth of some 
 eight or ten fathoms, which were marvellous natural aquaria 
 planted round with anemones, tesselated in blue and green 
 designs with Fungiw and brain-corals. But why no other 
 species should grow in these deep clear pits, and why the 
 various corals forming the bosses—which are chiefly of 
 Lchinopora lamellosa—do not stretch out their arms into 
 and obliterate them, seems difficult to understand. 
 
 In the small boat channel close to the settlement, one of the 
 few poisoned places in which the coral had begun to grow 
 vigorously since 1876, I dislodged with my hand several 
 living bunches from the chalky bottom on which they 
 were growing. ‘Their average diameter across the top was 
 12 inches, and their height from the centre to the tip of 
 the branches 64 inches. This channel was thoroughly 
 cleaned out down to the white mud on the 20th May, 1878, 
 and as my measurements were made on the 80th January, 
 1879, the age of these bunches was under eight and a half 
 months. 
 
 I could not help being struck by the number of brilliantly 
 hued fishes in the deep pools of the lagoon. Banded and 
 spotted Murcenoids (species of Leiwranus and Opisurus) glided 
 about in snake-like fashion ; in sea-weed or hydroid-covered 
 crevices motionless Antennarii lay in wait, but it required a 
 sharp eye to distinguish their quaintly adorned and mimicking 
 bodies from the excrescences of their retreat. Other singular 
 denizens of the lagoon are the Crayracions, which look like. 
 
24 A NATURALIST S WANDERINGS 
 
 round hedgehogs floating (as they do often) on the surface of 
 the water; their jaws are armed with formidable solid teeth to 
 enable them to feed on the coral; and the File-fishes, painted 
 with ccerulean bands and harnessed with blue _ bridle-lines, 
 which not only feed on the coral, but bore their way through 
 the shells of Mollusca to extract the succulent morsels within. 
 Their bodies terminate in a most convenient-looking tail, as 
 if made purposely to handle them by, and I could not help 
 feeling maliciously imposed on when I did so, by haying 
 very precipitately to drop a fine specimen I was lifting for 
 examination, on the sharp hidden spines, with which that 
 organ is set, running into my hand like a series of lances. 
 One of the commonest genera of fishes in the tropical seas 
 of the Atlantic, Australian and Indo-Pacific regions is the 
 Chetodon, which is particularly attractive on account of the 
 form and the singular brilliance of the coloration of its species. 
 The heaps of fish that my boys, a couple of urchins not more 
 than four years of age, used, by alternately harpooning and 
 diving after them to bring in, formed when piled on the white 
 background of the coral shore, a bright picture indeed from 
 the wonderful variety of their colours—emerald-green, cobalt- 
 blue, rich orange, and even scarlet. 
 
 Most of the lagoon fishes are good for food; but there 
 is a species of Scarus which requires to be prepared for the 
 table with very great care, for should the gall-bladder be 
 ruptured, and its contents escape into the body-cavity, the 
 flesh of the fish becomes quite poisoned. Several fatal cases 
 had occurred in the settlement, especially among children, 
 who almost immediately after partaking of the flesh were 
 seized with giddiness and stupor, followed by death, with a 
 dropsical state of the body, within two or three hours. The 
 effect of the application of the bile externally produced simply 
 a bad fester. A woman while cleaning such a fish by the shore, 
 on one occasion threw out the entrails on the water, when a 
 Frigate-bird (Tachypetes minor) which had been hovering over 
 her, swooping down picked up the tempting morsel; but it 
 had risen only some thirty feet in the air, when it fell back on 
 the water lifeless. The sharks, the albacore (Thynnus termo) 
 and the baracuta are the pirates of the lagoon, and the chief 
 agents in restraining its over-population. 
 
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 29 
 Among the branches of the ginger-coral, a great variety of 
 Crustacea are to be seen creeping about, and in all the crevices 
 Mollusca of every family, most conspicuous among them being 
 the giant clams of the genus Tr:daena, whose mantle edged with 
 turquoise beads forms a beautiful object to look down on; but 
 one must shudder for the diver who should accidentally thrust 
 his head or a limb into its gape, which the slightest touch 
 causes to close with a snap. 
 
 Nor was the interest of the atoll confined to its surf-beaten 
 barrier and its teeming lagoon ; every foot of the surface of the 
 land, every atom of its substance, every stem of the vegetation 
 that covered it, and each separate existence that crept or 
 winged itself on and around it, by its very presence in this 
 mid-ocean speck, was charged with a wondrous tale of strange 
 vicissitudes and wanderings. By the inner margins of some 
 of the islands (as will be seen on looking at the map), and 
 forming lagoonlets in some of them, there are soft hmy mud- 
 flats, which are gradually becoming land, mainly by slow 
 elevation and by crustacean agency. 
 
 One of the largest of these is in West Island. Its lagoon- 
 ward portion, near the entrance conduit, which is submerged 
 at high water, is tenanted by two, if not three, species of 
 crab (Gelasimus vocans, tetragonon, and annulipes). They live 
 in narrow corkscrew burrows, round the top of which there 
 is always a little mound just such as is seen about an earth- 
 worm’s; and indeed they are most perfect worm substitutes. 
 I counted one hundred and twenty of their holes in an area 
 only two feet square; and as there were many square acres in 
 the ground of which I speak, some idea of the number of this 
 busy army may be obtained. They were incessantly active 
 during the recess of the tide and even during high water, 
 which is generally perfectly still, in carrying down twigs of 
 trees or fucus leaves, scraps of cocoanut shell, and seeds, 
 laying the foundation of the future land. 
 
 On placing the foot on the region occupied by them, one 
 perceives an undulation of the surface followed, over a circular 
 area, by a surprising change of the pure white ground into a 
 warm pink colour, which for the moment the stranger puts down 
 to some affection of his eyes from the reflection of the light. 
 He soon perceives that this movement is caused by the simul- 
 
26 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 taneous stampede of the dense crowd of-the peopled shore into 
 their dwellings, just within the door of which they halt, with 
 the larger of their two pincer-claws, which is of a rich pink 
 colour, effectually barring the entrance except where one 
 watchful stalked eye is thrust out to take an inquiring look 
 if the alarm is real. As one advances the pink areas again 
 change into white, as the Crustaceans withdraw into their sub- 
 terranean fastnesses. On traversing a broad field occupied by 
 these crabs, the constant undulations and change of colours, | 
 produce a curious dazzling effect on the eyes. 
 
 The land between tide-marks is occupied by another turret- 
 eyed vigilant pioneer of vegetable occupation against marine 
 possession, which extends its operations further landward than 
 the Gelasimus, and where the ground is more or less wet. This 
 is a species of Macrophthalmus whose colour protects it from 
 general observation till it starts to run. One-third of its time 
 is spent under water, and two-thirds in energetic mining opera- 
 tions on land. It is to be seen constantly scattering around it, 
 with a nervous jerk, the arm-fulls of sand which, held between 
 its body and clawed foot, it has dragged up from below out of 
 the burrows into which it carries all sorts of vegetable débris. 
 On the slightest sound it scampers off to take refuge in the 
 water, and is at once noticeable by its mobile stalked eyes curi- 
 ously pricked up high over its body. These eye-stalks are 
 conical cylinders set round, except on the narrow area along 
 which they are applied to each other in the mid-line of the 
 body, with facets which really form perfect little watch-towers 
 commanding an unobstructed outlook to all points of the 
 compass. 
 
 The area along the dry margin of the land is occupied 
 by a third—a_short-eyed—species of crab (Ocypoda), whose 
 labours seem to tell more than those of the others. Besides 
 burying smaller particles of vegetable débris, it lowers down 
 large branches of trees, and even cocoa-nuts, by scooping away 
 the soil below them, and carries down also the newly fallen seeds 
 of the iron-wood tree (Cordia). Both these trees, which along 
 with a rough sort of grass (Lepturus repens) and the hard- 
 wooded Pemphis acidula lead the van of vegetable occupation 
 of lands wrested from the sea, are in this way aided in their 
 forward march. As soon, however, as its busy labours have 
 
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. Ot 
 
 changed the white calcareous fore-shore into a dark vegetable 
 mould, its occupation seems gone, and it retires in quest of 
 new land to conquer. 
 
 Further landward the soil is tilled and ee up to the sun 
 and rain by a species of Gecarcinus, which lives almost entirely 
 in the dry land, visiting the sea only in times of great drought. 
 A still more effective tiller is the great cocoa-nut crab (Birgus 
 latro), one of the largest of shore Crustacea. It is chiefly noc- 
 turnal in its habits, and is not so often seen as the others. It 
 makes in the ground deep tunnels, larger than rabbit burrows, 
 lined for warmth (?) with cocoa-nut fibre. It has a habit. of 
 climbing the cocoa-nut palms, but whether to take the air or 
 for temporary lodging is doubtful; it does not rob the trees, 
 however, as has been charged against it, since it feeds only on 
 fruits that have fallen. One of its pincer-claws is developed 
 into an organ of extraordinary power, capable, when the creature 
 is enraged, of breaking a cocoa-nut shell ora man’slimb. ‘he 
 inner edges of the claw are armed with a series of white 
 enamelled denticulations whose resemblance to teeth is 
 singularly close, even to the irregular scarlet line below them 
 which might pass for gums. The Bbirgus feeds on the nuts 
 almost exclusively, using its great claw to denude the fruit of 
 the husk surrounding it, and to get at the eye of the nut, which 
 it has learned is the only easy gateway to the interior. 
 
 Of the three eye-spots seen at the end of a cocoa-nut only 
 one permits an easy entrance. ‘The Birgus does not waste its 
 energies in denuding the whole nut, and it never denudes the 
 wrong end. Having pierced the proper eye with one of its 
 spindle ambulatory legs, it rotates the nut round it till the 
 orifice is large enough to permit the insertion of its great claw 
 to break up the shell and triturate its contents, whose particles 
 it then carries to its mouth by means of its other and smaller 
 cheliferous foot. 
 
 From this nutritious diet it accumulates beneath its tail 
 a store of fat, which dissolves by heat into a rich yellow oil, of 
 which a large specimen will often yield as much as two pints. 
 Thickened in the sun, it forms an excellent substitute for 
 butter in all its uses. I discovered it to be a valuable pre- 
 serving lubricant for guns and steel instruments; and only 
 when a small bottle of it, which I had had for two years, was 
 
28 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 finished, did I fully realise what a precious anti-corrosive in 
 these humid regions I had lost. 
 
 The Birgus, though belonging to a water-living family, 
 spends the greater part of its time on the land, and Professor 
 Semper* has discovered that, following on its change of habit, 
 a portion of the gill-cavities of this singular crustacean have 
 become modified into an organ for breathing air—* into a true 
 lung,” in fact. | 
 
 Not less interesting than the marine, was the terrestrial life | 
 of these lonely isles. Mr. Darwin’s famous visit was made 
 about eleven years after their colonisation. More than half a 
 century more had elapsed till I landed there. In 1836 Mr. 
 Darwin gathered some twenty-two species of flowering plants. 
 On comparing the list (at the end of this Part) of the plants 
 collected or identified on the atoll by me with Professor Hens- 
 low’s of those collected by Mr. Darwin, it will be observed that 
 considerable additions have been made to its flora. It is not 
 improbable, however, that a few of those not enumerated by 
 Professor Henslow may have been overlooked by Darwin during 
 the occupied days of the Beagle’s short stay. Some are of more 
 recent introduction, and are due with little doubt to the 
 accidents of human inter-communication, while others have 
 been intentionally introduced. Direct intercourse has princi- 
 pally been with Java, Mauritius, and India, and occasionally 
 with Australia, by means of horse-laden vessels calling for 
 water. The greater part of the indigenous vegetation consists, 
 as Mr. Darwin has pointed out, of plants common to Australia 
 and Timor ; and it is certainly these we should most expect to 
 find here, as the ocean currents which wash the shores of the 
 atoll by running westward from Australian seas, and sweeping 
 round north-eastward in the Indian Ocean towards Sumatra 
 and Java, bring it nearer to Australia and the eastern part of 
 the Archipelago than to its geographically closer neighbours. 
 Thus by slow degrees and after many a failure have the ocean 
 streams succeeded in clothing this lone speck with verdure. 
 
 When first occupied the islands were covered abundantly 
 with iron-wood (Cordia) and Pemphis acidula, as well as cocoa 
 palms. Accidental fires, however, both on North Keeling 
 
 * Of.‘The Natural Conditions of Existence as they affect Animal Life,’ by 
 Karl Semper. International Series; p. 193. Kegan Paul & Co. 1881. 
 
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 29 
 (fifteen miles distant) and on the south islands, destroyed nearly 
 all the iron-wood forests, the most valuable timber the colonists 
 possessed. This tree grows often with a most curious arching 
 habit, and as the name they have given it indicates, its timber 
 is very durable. I sawa trunk on one of the islets which after an 
 exposure of over forty years was in every part perfectly sound ; 
 and a beam whose natural curve fitted without artificial bend- 
 ing the double arch of the ribs of a schooner of 200 tons building 
 on the stocks of the island. The vegetation of the islands is 
 now almost entirely cocoa-nut trees. 
 
 The history of this commonest member of its family might 
 occupy a long and interesting chapter, if space permitted. 
 Few, perhaps, know it better than Mr. Ross; and while enjoy- 
 ing the grateful shade and the delicious beverage that its 
 fruits supply, I passed many a pleasant half hour in listening 
 to his accounts of its growth and habits. As a rule it is a 
 branchless palm, but on West Island he took me to see its rare 
 occurrence as a branching tree, which, instead of fruiting spikes, 
 invariably produced persistent branches crowned with a bunch 
 of leaves—adding to the beauty of the already graceful palm. 
 
 Most nuts, as is well known, contain, on opening them, only 
 one ovary cavity, but, as the three eye-spots indicate, all nuts 
 ought to have, were they not naturally suppressed, three of these. 
 Many of the Keeling palms produce not only their full com- 
 plement of three compartments, but, what is more surprising, 
 some have as many as eight and even fourteen. Such nuts 
 produce palms with a common root, but with as many stems as 
 they have cells. Under favourable conditions the cocoa-nut 
 can produce its first fruit within four years from the fall of 
 the seed nut from its parent tree, while it can go on for an 
 unknown period throwing out every month a new fruit spike 
 bearing from seven to fourteen nuts, which require from eight 
 to thirteen months to ripen. 
 
 The palms in the centre of the islets grow to a greater height 
 —some of them to 120 feet,—on account of the deeper soil and 
 more abundant supply of fresh water, than those along the 
 shores, but the oil-producing capacity of their fruit is not, 
 however, greater. More oil is obtained from nuts which have 
 formed during the early part, and ripened during the later 
 months of the year. Mr. Ross assured me that during every 
 
v0) A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 full moon, many of the fruits exposed fully to its rays 
 are blighted, the pulp becoming puckered and shrunk. Sun- 
 stroke, he said, was also very common; but in this case the 
 affected nut shrivels up, and when it is opened only a withered 
 embryo is found inside. 
 
 I searched for the two trees seen, but not obtained by Mr. 
 Darwin, as mentioned in his ‘ Voyage.’ Of the one “of great 
 height on West Island” I would have secured specimens but 
 for an unfortunate discharge by a twig of Mr. Ross’s gun, 
 resulting in a severe and painful wound to his hand (happily 
 not more serious than a bad flesh wound), which necessitated 
 our return home, before we had succeeded. As it was the last 
 oceasion I could visit the islet, I was unable certainly to iden- 
 tify the tree, although from the seeds which I obtained, I have 
 little doubt that it is a species of Pisonia (probably P. inermis) 
 which is found in the Australian and Pacific islands. Its 
 seeds are spiny and glutinous, and, by adhering in great 
 numbers to their feathers, often prove fatal to the herons that 
 nest in its summit.. As many sea-fowl have almost a cosmo- 
 politan distribution, it is easy to perceive how widely this tree 
 might be disseminated by the birds that roost on it. 
 
 Mr. Darwin records that he took pains to collect every kind 
 of insect he saw. Exclusive of spiders, which were numerous, 
 thirteen species were found by him. A list of all those col- 
 lected or seen by me would far outrun Mr. Darwin’s, showing 
 that by some means or other species are still finding their way 
 to this distantspot. Unfortunately, this collection was destroyed 
 on my way back to Java, and cannot be now named ; but few, if 
 any, of the species were referable to Australian, Timorese or 
 East Archipelago forms, so that the origin of the fauna is 
 evidently different from that of the flora of the atoll, and is 
 doubtless due to many chance passengers, that half a century of 
 the coming and going of ships has brought as stowaways and 
 landed unknowingly ; now an adhering cluster of eggs, now a 
 gravid female, or perchance a mated couple. Irom the testi- 
 mony of Mr. Ross, whom I have found a most accurate observer, 
 the cyclones of 1863 and of 1876 added, if not new species, at 
 least a host of new individuals to the Keeling fauna. 
 
 Among Coleoptera Mr. Darwin mentions only one small 
 Elater ; while I observed hosts of small Melolonthide (genus 
 
| 
 
 IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. ol 
 
 
 
 Serica) and Rutelide (genus Anomala), whose presence, I am 
 told, had been noted in abundance for only a few years previous 
 to my visit. I saw them frequenting almost every open flower, 
 towards which they were performing the kind fertilising office 
 usually done by bees, whose place they seemed to take. Of 
 Orthoptera, besides the ubiquitous cockroach (Blatta orientalis), 
 there were a few Acrididae, and the common locust, which 
 was found in increased numbers after the cyclone. The 
 Hemiptera were represented by several species. 
 
 Of Neuwroptera, white ants had spread their baneful hordes to 
 most of the islands; while Chrysopa innotataand dragon-flies were 
 very plentiful. Immediately after the cyclone the surface of the 
 water was observed to be densely strewn with broken bodies of 
 the latter, as if,in its course, the wind had encountered a cloud 
 of them, and scattered their mangled remains as it travelled. 
 I did not succeed in collecting any true Hymenoptera, but ants 
 were abundant; a minute Fire-ant (Camponotus), the common 
 Javan long-legged venomless species, and several black sorts 
 had become domiciled on the islands. Every trading vessel in 
 the tropics has its formicine fauna, and cannot help acting as a 
 transporter of all sorts of ants from one region of it to another. 
 Lepidoptera had perhaps increased more than any other family. 
 The Diopeea, so common in Java among the sensitive Mimosa, 
 and a minute Plume-moth sheltering among the red-wood (Pem- 
 plus acidula), and the Scevola, were perhaps the most common ; 
 the large Atlas-moth had become a settled resident here, as 
 well as several moderately large diurnal species with a habit 
 of pitching on the warm, bare ground and frequenting the 
 Guetarda and the Asclepias cwirassavica. Among several sorts 
 of flies, an Asz/us, much like the large carnivorous fly common 
 in South Europe, was most conspicuous. 
 
 The Mammalian fauna of the Keelings was an entirely 
 introduced one. A herd of deer on Horsburgh Island, was in- 
 teresting as being a cross between the Javan Rusa (Cervus hip- 
 pelaphus) and the darker Sumatran species (Cervus equinus). 
 Pigs -ran semi-wild, and throve remarkably well on the broken 
 scraps of cocoa-nuts everywhere lying about in the woods. 
 Australian sheep, which fed on the Portulaca oleracea, on 
 a species of grass, and on the tubers of an aroid which they 
 scraped up, did not seem to suffer much from the noyel maritime 
 
o2 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 conditions under which they found themselves. The settlers 
 would be rendered supremely happy if such conditions would 
 by any means prove prejudicial to the rats—the sole living 
 creature unwelcome to their island home,—whose fecundity is 
 becoming appalling, for every vessel that calls serves to infuse 
 only fresh blood and vigour into the race. 
 
 Occasionally flying foxes (Pteropus) reach the atoll, but 
 hitherto in too exhausted a state to survive. Once a pair 
 arrived together; but both, unfortunately, soon died. It is 
 not improbable that some day, through the favourable cir- 
 cumstance of an unusually strong and healthy pair shaping 
 their course Keeling-wards, they may yet survive the arduous 
 journey, and the atoll find them some morning added to its 
 fauna. What has only just failed here, has doubtless suc- 
 ceeded in other oceanic islands, with different volant species. 
 
 Bird life was limited, but very interesting. Graceful 
 Noddies (Anous stolidus) and Gannets (Sua piscatriz) were 
 in thousands; and I had the satisfaction of watching what has 
 been over and over described, but was new to me, how their 
 industrious habits are taken advantage of by the swift-winged 
 Frigate-birds. Hiding in the lee of the cocoa-nut trees, the 
 Tachypetes would sally out on the successful fishers returning 
 in the evening, and perpetrate a vigorous assault on them 
 till they disgorged for their behoof at least a share of their 
 supper, which they caught in mid-air as it fell. Such feelings 
 of reprobation as I ought to have felt at their conduct was, I 
 fear, not very deep ; for the swoop after the falling spoil was so 
 elegant an evolution, that, I confess, I always hoped that the poor 
 Noddy would give up as heavy a morsel as possible, in order to 
 necessitate a correspondingly eager dive after it. Refractory 
 Gannets were often seized by the tail by the Frigate-birds, and 
 treated to a shake that rarely failed of successful results. 
 Fierce foes as they were in the air, on terra firma they roosted 
 near each other like the best of friends. They breed only on 
 North Keeling, and during that season the bare skin of the 
 throat is of a very rich scarlet colour. They are powerful 
 fliers, and can head against even a gale by taking in a reef in 
 their long wings, so as to expose only the greater quills to its 
 force. 
 
 The Tachypetes minor used to nest in the bushes of Pemphis 
 
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. on 
 
 acidula on the South Keeling group; but since the settle- 
 ment, constant interruption from the nut-gatherers has driven 
 it to breed in North Keeling. When brought up from the 
 nest in a state of semi-captivity, they can be trained to aid in 
 the capture of their fellows, which are much used as food by 
 the settlers. 
 
 A hunter wishing to shoot a few of these birds, throws out 
 within gunshot on the surface of the water a piece of attractive 
 bait, which the tame Frigate-bird swoops down, almost osten- 
 tatiously, time after time, to pick up. Several of its hungry 
 brethren, always hanging about, soon make their appearance 
 to struggle for a share; after two or three gyrations, the eager 
 stranger swoops down for the tempting morsel, the decoy 
 soars out of reach, while his unfortunate dupe falls a victim. 
 If the others take flight, the same tactics will be followed 
 again and again by the decoy, who exhibits no alarm at the 
 report of the gun or the death throes of its companions. 
 
 The white, satin-feathered Tropic-bird (Phaeton candidus) 
 was far from uncommon; but being a very high flier it was 
 difficult to secure specimens of it. I was happy, nevertheless, 
 to be able to examine in the flesh one, at least, of these 
 beautiful creatures. It must possess wonderfully acute powers 
 of sight, for when sailing along at a great elevation, I have 
 seen it suddenly descend like an arrow, disappear below the 
 surface of the sea, and in a few moments soar up with its prey 
 in its mouth. 
 
 On West Island two species of Heron (Herodias nigripes, and 
 Demiegretta sacra) nested on the high Pisonia trees, and, as I 
 have said above, often died from the number of the glutinous 
 seeds which clogged their feathers. The Australian Night- 
 heron (Nycticorax caledonicus) builds on the same trees, ‘This 
 is the first record of its occurrence so tar to the west, and 
 ranging, as it does, from New Caledonia through the Moluc- 
 cas and Timor, some ancestor of its own may, perchance, 
 have carried out thence the seeds of the trees on which it now 
 builds, just as its own young may be now distributing them 
 to distant isles, 
 
 The most engaging of all the birds was our little pilot, the 
 pure white Tern (Gygis candida) so chastely spoken of by Mr. 
 Darwin. As the swallow is to us, such a pet is this bird to 
 
 D 
 
34 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 the settlers. It chooses a strange place to set its nest in, if 
 one may so speak of its brooding place. Its solitary ege is 
 deposited on the leaf of a young cocoa-nut palm, at the time 
 when the leaf has rotated from its vertical position to one 
 nearly at right angles to the stem. The egg is laid in the 
 narrow angular gape between two leaflets on the summit of the 
 arch of the leaf, where it rests securely, without a scrap of nest, 
 in what one would think the most unsafe position possible, yet 
 defying the heaving and twisting of the leaves in the strongest 
 winds. The leaf, as in all palms, goes on drooping further and 
 further till it falls; and among the settlers it is a subject of 
 keen betting, when they see a Tern sitting on an ominously 
 withered leaf, whether the young bird will be hatched or not 
 before the leaf falls. The result I am told has always been in 
 favour of the bird; if the leaf fall in the afternoon, the Tern 
 will have escaped from the egg in the morning. 
 
 Not infrequently the “ Tjoo-Tjooit” lays its egg on a ledge 
 in the work-sheds of the island, but it never builds a nest. 
 The young one is fed incessantly by the parents with fishes, 
 which are brought in mouthfuls of generally six at a time, 
 arranged alternately head and tail. The old birds often feed 
 on the Papaya fruit, hovering on their wings all the while like 
 honeysuckers at a flower. This beautiful bird is to be found 
 only on the lone islands of the great oceans. 
 
 Besides the little Philippine Rail (Rallus philippensis), a 
 resident species often employed by the colonists to hatch out 
 their domestic fowls, which they do with care, a species of Snipe 
 and a Teal visit the islands every February and March in large 
 numbers, where they find a grateful rest in that annual voyage— 
 whence and whither I could not ascertain—that the changing 
 seasons resistlessly impel them to. Jungle fowl, introduced 
 from Java, were breeding and throve well; and lastly, I ob- 
 tained some nests of the Yellow Weaver-bird (Ploceus hypow- 
 anthus.) Strange to say, it also comes often across the sea (most 
 probably from Java) to nest on this lone island. Mr. Ross in- 
 formed me that it builds more frequently on North Keeling ; 
 neither parents nor brood, however, take up their residence, 
 but wend their way back whence they came, leaving their 
 elegant flask-shaped nests on the branches of the trees to 
 intimate that they have come and gone. , 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 96 50' 52’ 54! 56’ 58 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 WN 
 ‘\ Spit ruming out 14miles }s.. 
 12° “san a N.WY direction. 
 at = es NORTH f de 
 ae a ISLAND 
 Se ames 
 penn 
 \ a ms. |e 
 Se Oe. . 
 ve a , 
 aS cee extend 31rales | 
 = 6 \to the Fast of the Island | 
 {B Almost perpendicular 
 3 3 no sowuligs at 3 teet 
 = Woe owen ye at iee 
 50; ieee j 50 
 i j 
 irunning S.W,to meet(?) \ i 
 [he WV.W. spit from §. Keeling | 
 ee canbe seen ut catn weather 
 id-way beoveer the two A 
 : ee co: of “Coral & » Sand 
 Poa Soundings said to extend 
 ' 56 7 nearly Smiles ee the 8.8. W. F 
 6 af “£ 6 
 x o 
 aoe ¢ 
 Soles 
 we a 8 
 3 s 1 gee i fot 
 y| 13,.¢ Uneven Coral ss 4 3% % e a 33 4) 2 
 : = 5 Reg FS ice tc 
 J a with knous 3 i 
 ( |(f- Tork & S 
 Z Reet 
 i { Ht 3 2 
 5 24 
 4 4 
 ee patches growing up 
 3 very rT ea, jand altering thie part 3 
 i 
 Deep pig between large blocks of coral 
 oe 
 dy 
 6 | & 
 5 7 
 GENERAL MAP 
 showing-the relative position of the Islands. 
 4o’ 
 + + ae 
 f 18: | t 
 10 a — shat -———— — es == tae 
 if | 
 ‘8 | 
 9) | 
 ig! | 
 LCG Ss iSidry at low water | 
 8 Y 
 Soak aves 2 with deep holes 
 ies INDIAN OCEAN 
 a | — L 
 Map of ae 
 a, ave uaa 
 2 Sy <> 
 eS 270 exhibiting the changes 
 | | é2 that have taken place since 1836. ies 
 IZ —— of a sei eS VP re COR, = 
 ae The outline and remarks printed in black ts a 
 5 reduction of the Admiralty chart published 17 1866. 
 The changes that have occurred ,as delineated by 
 M°? Forbes, 1879, are marked tn Rad : 
 Area of poisoned water, Jan® 1876 vo Ed 
 Soundings 1 tathoms-those nuarked this 30 urdicate 
 - | that no bottom was found, at those depths. | 
 | 191 
 L ae —— [eras — — — ——— _— ae ———— = +—— = oe 7 — — ————— 
 T | T ; T + T j T } T 
 | 96°50 52 54! 56 58 
 
 
 
 Edw? Weller .lit?t 
 
 London; Sampson Low, Marston, Searle & Rivington. 
 
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 30D 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER ITI. 
 SOJOURN IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS—continued. 
 
 Coral reef formation—Observations on the elevation or subsidence of the 
 Keeling atoll. 
 
 As the Keeling atoll was the reef most carefully examined and 
 described by Mr. Darwin, and that with which, in propounding 
 his famous theory of coral reefs, he has compared the others he 
 describes, I felt specially pleased at being able to go over 
 his own ground with his book in my hand, and gain a clearer 
 understanding of several points which I had found it difficult 
 to comprehend. 
 
 Unfortunately the weather during my visit was not suffi- 
 ciently favourable to enable me to examine so closely as I 
 
 — eould have desired the corals of the outer margins or to make 
 
 the series of seaward soundings I had intended. 
 
 The first questions that present themselves to the traveller 
 in midst of his amazement on first reaching that peculiar 
 production of the warm seas—an island-speckled ring of coral 
 holding its own against the waves—are, How came it into being 
 
 here, Why of this singular form, and How does it continue to 
 exist ? Mr. Darwin was the first to attempt any far-reaching 
 solution of these difficult questions, applicable to coral forma- 
 tions over all the world. As true reef-building corals, it is well 
 known, can flourish only beneath a very limited depth—some 
 twenty fathoms—of water, a great apparent difficulty existed 
 “respecting the foundations on which these atolls are based, 
 from the immensity of the spaces over which they are inter- 
 spersed and the apparent necessity for believing that they are 
 all supported on mountain summits, which, although rising very 
 near to the surface of the sea, in no one instance emerge above it. 
 To escape this latter most improbable admission, which implies 
 the existence of submarine chains of mountains of almost the 
 D2 
 
 
 
36 -A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 same height, extending over areas of many thousand square 
 miles, there is but one alternative ; namely, the prolonged subsi- 
 dence of the foundations on which the atolls were primarily based, 
 together with the upward growth of the reef-constructing corals.” * 
 
 Since Mr. Darwin published this theory, several expeditions 
 expressly directed towards the examination of the floor of the 
 great oceans have taken place, prominent among them being 
 the United States Exploring Expedition, the Tuscarora, the 
 Blake, and our own Challenger voyages. These have put us in 
 possession of a large body of facts scarcely guessed at when 
 Mr. Darwin broke deep ground on this subject. Mr. Dana, 
 Professor Semper, Professor Agassiz and Mr. Murray of the 
 Challenger staff, have also specially made coral reefs a subject 
 of study. These three last named investigators have shown 
 that the explanation of coral reef formation may be in other 
 causes than those of elevation and subsidence. Great submarine 
 banks have been discovered, “covered by deposits of Pteropods 
 and Globigerina ooze serving as foundations for barrier reefs 
 and atolls, while their voleanic substratum has been completely 
 hidden.” “The fact that these great submarine banks of 
 modern limestone lie in the very track of the great oceanic 
 currents sufficiently shows that these currents hold the immense 
 quantity of carbonate of lime needed in the growth of the 
 banks... . Mr. Murray has shown that if the pelagic fauna 
 and flora extend ..., as experiments seem conclusively to 
 prove, to a depth of 100 fathoms, we should have 16 tons of 
 carbonate of lime for every square mile 100 fathoms deep. 
 But the greater the depth at which these plateaux begin to 
 form, the less rapid must be their formation. Deep water 
 itself being,as Professor Ditmar has recently shown,f a greater 
 solvent (not from, as has been held, its containing a much greater 
 proportion of free carbonic acid, but because of its depth,) than 
 shallower water, would dissolve up all the lighter and thinner 
 calcareous shells and débris; while in less deep water, the dead 
 siliceous and calcareous shells of Foraminifera, Sponges, Hy- 
 droids, Corals, Mollusca, etc., would accumulate and build up 
 these plateaux,” with a calcareous conglomerate. “ Whenever 
 
 * «The Structure and Distribution of Coral Reefs,’ by Charles Darwin, 
 1842, pp. 146-7. The italics are the present author’s, 
 | Official Report of the Scientific Results of the Voyage of H.M.S. 
 Challenger: Physics and Chemistry. Vol. I, 
 
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 37 
 
 
 
 such plateaux have reached, on their windward side, the level 
 at which corals prosper, that 1s, some 120 feet below the surface, 
 these coral reefs spring up and flourish,”’* and subsisting at a 
 greater depth than all others, a solid foundation is laid by the 
 close compactly growing Astree ; then on their dense floor, in 
 whose myriad crannies, molluscs and all manner of marine 
 beings have sheltered, died and left their shells compacted by the 
 carbonate of lime let loose from their partial disintegration and 
 solution into a solid limestone conglomerate consisting of coral, 
 of shells and of all that may have fallen onit, which they have 
 raised layer above layer as near the surface as they may, the 
 Brain-corals (Meandrina) and the Porites assume and continue 
 the upward task till they “ in their turn reach the limit beyond 
 which they are forbidden by the laws of their nature to pass... . 
 But the coral wall continues its steady progress; for here the 
 hehter kinds set in—the Madrepores, the Millipores and a 
 ereat variety of Sea-lerns,—and the reef is crowned at last with 
 a many-coloured shrubbery of low feathery growth.” t —__ 
 This is in its main outlines Murray’s, Semper’s, and Agassiz’s 
 explanation of how a reef originates. Unfortunately for my 
 own satisfaction and guidance when examining the Keeling reef, 
 I had not read Professor Semper’s views, and those of the other 
 two naturalists were not then published. I have now pictured 
 the reef as risen to almost the surface of the sea at ebb spring- 
 tides; higher than this the coral polyps, which die when 
 exposed for a very short period only to the air and the sun, 
 cannot raise it; but as corals flourish best in the battle of the 
 waves, which are better aérated and charged with the pelagic 
 life which sustains them, they can extend only seaward and 
 grow their fastest, checked solely where ocean currents scour too 
 fiercely past them. In this stage such a coral structure (as the 
 Keeling atoll) might be seen to be roughly circular in form,— 
 observable also in all the raised islets of the group as well as 
 in North Keeling,—doubtless by being beaten on all sides. 
 Travelling from the exterior margin of the reef inwards, coral 
 growth from less abundant sustenance is seen to be less 
 
 * «The Tortuga and Florida Reefs,’ by Alexander Agassiz, Mem, Am, 
 Soc. of Arts and Sc., vol. xi. p. 113. 
 
 T ‘Florida Reefs,’ L. Agassiz, Mem. Mus. Comp. Zoology, p. 49. Pvoc. 
 Zs ieee No. 107, 1880: “On the Structure and Origin of Coral Reefs aud 
 slands.” 
 
33 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 luxuriant and has grown to a less height than more externally, 
 and consequently we have a Lagoon, which sometimes, though 
 rarely, is enclosed by an unbroken ring of coral; more com- 
 monly, however, (as in Keeling atoll) the reef is intersected by 
 several channels communicating between the lagoon and the 
 outer ocean. ‘These channels are produced by many causes, 
 such as, swift currents interrupting the growth, decay of 
 the coral from local causes, and natural or accidental dis- 
 turbances. oy 
 
 On a subsiding or stationary foundation such a reef, raise 
 to the level of low-water mark, can never by any luxuriance of 
 its own growth rise above the water level and become a coral 
 island. (Great storms, however, by breaking off blocks of its 
 living and ever seaward-growing margin, and throwing them 
 on the lagoonward portion of the reef, alone are able to 
 commence the raising above the surface of the ocean of 
 future islets, on which after the gradual accumulation of soil, 
 consisting of sand and the decaying flotsam and jetsam of the 
 ocean, and the germinating seeds that the winds, the sea currents, 
 or the birds of the air may chance to cast on its bosom, a 
 green clothing of vegetation inevitably grows up. 
 
 In traversing the Keeling atoll it seemed to be unaccount- 
 able how the interior, or lagoon margins of the islets, which 
 must necessarily have been thrown up above water at the 
 earlest stage of the existence of the atoll, still continue (on 
 the supposition that the atoll is subsiding) several feet 
 elevated above high-water level, and show no indication of the 
 water’s encroachment. As a storm so violent as the cyclone 
 of 1876 was capable of piling the torn-off blocks of the reef- 
 floor—composed of a natural concrete of worn coral, shells, 
 and the hard parts of pelagic animals, imbedded in a solid 
 calcareous matrix—only a few yards over the higher edge of 
 the island, it is impossible for the lagoon margins, in some 
 places more than 800 yards distant from the sea, to be kept up 
 in elevation by the debris of the outer margin ; and the greatest 
 storms do not affect perceptibly or permanently the shores of 
 the lagoon. 
 
 Mr. Ross informed me that what Mr. Darwin, from the 
 undermining of cocoa-nut trees seen by him, supposed to be 
 sea encroachments, was intermittently taking place during 
 
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 39 
 
 gales round the lagoon shores; and pointed out to me that 
 where, in such places, a portion of the land was washed out, 
 the same amount was replaced in some adjacent part of the 
 shore. He showed me also on the little islet, named in the 
 chart Workhouse Island, a rather exposed corner which had 
 been completely washed away with all the trees on it, in the 
 cyclone of 1876, but which in January, 1878, had become to a 
 great extent replaced. A period going on for half a century 
 had elapsed since Mr. Darwin’s observations, and the encroach- 
 ments of the sea on the land had, in my judgment at least, not 
 increased at all; on the contrary, it struck me that the land 
 was gaining on the lagoon. ‘This, too, was Mr. Ross’s opinion, 
 from a thorough and intelligent knowledge of every part of 
 its coast and surface. 
 
 On West Island, in a short time the lagoonlet will be 
 entirely converted into dry land. At present it is nearly 
 filled up, and remains dry at all ordinary tides except on 
 two or three occasions a year, with a pure white chalk-like 
 sediment, the detritus of coral-attrition by the waves washed 
 in from the outside of the reef, where the sea is always more 
 or less turbid; all along its coast also, as far as its south 
 corner, the West Island is gaining ground by the accumu- 
 - lation of sediment. If subsidence were proceeding, this sedi- 
 ment could not rise above high-water level. In the centre 
 of Horsburgh Island, which is three-quarters of a mile in 
 breadth, the ground exhibits an unbroken solid conglomerate 
 surface not composed of the strewn debris from storms; 
 and a lakelet of salt water containing no life, which occurs 
 in it, seems to be an old lagoon extremely shallow and nearly 
 obliterated. In North Island also, 15 miles distant, as Mr. 
 Ross told me, the lagoon was rapidly filling up; its entrance 
 passage has since our knowledge of it been always barred by 
 the reef. In all these islands, in sinking wells down for some 
 12—20 feet through the solid conglomerate of which all the 
 islands are composed, fresh water can be found. The only 
 exception is Direction Island, in which no fresh water has been 
 discovered, and which is entirely composed, as far as borings 
 have been made, of shingle debris such as is found along the 
 beach of the seaward margin. 
 
 Between Direction Island and Workhouse Island I observed 
 
40 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 what seemed to me signs of recent elevation. At ebb tide 
 there the water was very shallow and quite warm to the hand, 
 and I noticed Ostreide, small T’ridacne and other shells all 
 dead where they grew, doubtless killed by exposure to the sun at 
 low tide and by the fresh water during heavy rains. Of these 
 tropical downpours, Darwin records one as having taken place 
 before his visit, and Mr. Ross told me that in 1866, there were 
 several months of such continuous rain that the fresh water 
 stood for several inches on the surface of the lagoon, causing the 
 death of large numbers of fish, and no doubt of corals also. 
 
 Completely surrounding this little islet was a thrown-up 
 beach of very white sand, quite different from that I saw 
 anywhere else on the atoll, composed entirely of the minute 
 shells of molluscs, Echini, and of crabs, with a small proportion 
 of coral débris, probably raised by the waves from the seaward 
 slope of the barrier, indicating, perhaps, a less abrupt descent 
 than has been supposed. Since its first occupation (by Ross 
 Primus) the lagoon has greatly filled up with coral patches and 
 sediment, as he could sail his vessel much farther up towards 
 South-east Island than now, and several boat channels cut as 
 indicated on the map have become quite obliterated. On the 
 east side of the atoll the islets are much smaller than at any 
 other part, and this may result if such an untoward circum- 
 stance as the irruption of poisoned water, such as I have 
 recorded above, were to occur at frequent intervals. It is 
 possible also that such a stream might issue frequently, if not 
 in great quantity, without being observed. 
 
 I incline to believe, therefore, that the Keeling reef 
 foundation has arisen as Murray, Semper and Agassiz have 
 suggested ; but that its islets have been the result of the 
 combined action of storms and the slow elevation of the vol- 
 canically upheaved ocean floor, on which the reef is built.* 
 
 The atoll offers to the marine biologist a rich mine that 
 would take not a few years of working to exhaust;f to the 
 
 * An abstract of an exhaustive reswmé and discussion by Dr. A. Geikie, 
 ¥.R.S., of the Coral Reef theories will be found in Natwre, Nov. 29 and Dec. 6, 
 1883, of which the full text has just been published in the Proc. Phys. Soc, 
 Eidin., vol. viii. (1884). 
 
 + I have elsewhere (Proc. R. G. S., March 1884) directed attention to the 
 admirable situation of this spot for a Biological and Meteorological Station, 
 where it could be kept up at the most trifling cost. 
 
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 41 
 
 
 
 philosopher and student of human nature not a little to reflect 
 on, as to the effect on the colonists of a life so isolated, so apart 
 from the active stimulus of rivalry, and the sharp incentives to 
 advancement born of public opinion and the intercourse of 
 fresh minds, and so distant from the cheering influence of 
 the warm sympathies of their fellow men; yet among whom, 
 at least, instead of symptoms of physical, mental or moral 
 degeneration—despite the belief of Mr. Dana * that, “notwith- 
 standing all the products and all the attractions of a coral 
 island, even in its best condition, it is but a miserable place for 
 human development, physical, mental or moral,’—he would 
 find continuous endeavour, industry and care crowned with 
 progress, and lives spent in contented happiness; to myself 
 it had opened a field of study charged in every aspect with 
 all that was interesting and very much that was new. 
 
 On the 8th of February Mr. Ross brought me at last the 
 inevitable news that the Mabel was again freighted with her 
 cargo of nuts and oil, and would sail next day for Batavia, 
 coupled, however, with a warm invitation to wait till her next 
 return from Batavia, and visit in the meantime the North 
 Keelings. very consideration urged me to accept, but it 
 was with liveliest regret that 1 found it impossible to do so. 
 The recollection of its pleasures and its owner’s Highland- 
 chieftain-like hospitality (born of his blood) will ever make 
 the Keeling atoll a memory to dwell on. 
 
 On the 9th we set sail, and falling in a few days later with 
 the steadily blowing Monsoon wind we scudded gaily along 
 before it, and anchored in Batavia on the 16th, accomplishing 
 in a week what it had taken us thirty days to sail over on our 
 outward voyage. 
 
 * Dana, ‘Corals and Coral Islands,’ p. 246, 
 
42 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 APPENDIX TO PART I. 
 
 
 
 Norr.—J., represents Java; T., Timor; T-L., Timor-laut; Sum., Sumatra ; 
 T. @A., Tristan d’Acunha. The plants obtained by Mr. Darwin were described 
 by Rev. J. S. Henslow in Ann. Nat. Hist., vol. i. p. 337. 
 
 I.—List of the Keeling Atoll PLants. {tr Darwin, The one 
 Anonacex. 
 Anoua reticulata, LD. . fe be me os a x 
 Cruciferex. 
 Sinapis juncea, L. Aru... - ie f es — x 
 Capparidacex. 
 Gynandropsis, sp.’ Prob. cultivated. .. a a _ x 
 Malvaceex. 
 Hibiscus tiliaceus, L. T., J., Pacf. Ids. r Ee x x 
 Hibiscus Rosa-sinensis, LZ. Introduced. a ee — x 
 Sida carpinifolia, Z. fil, Madeira. Mauritius. Ze — x 
 Tiliaceex. 
 Triumfetta procumbens, Forst. a ie a x x 
 Leguminose. 
 Acacia farnesiana, W. 'T. - es x x 
 Poinciana pulcherrima, Z, Introduced a 5 _ x 
 Guilindina Bondue, Ait. T. es x x 
 Rosacex. 
 Eriobotrya, sp. Cultivated. .. Me _ -f, — x 
 Rosa ceutifolia, L. Cultivated. *, ‘ e — x 
 Myrtacex. 
 Guava, spp. Cultivated. f Se i 2 -— x 
 , Lythracex. 
 
 Pemphis acidula, Forst. T. .. = a ef x x 
 Papayacex. 
 
 Carica papaya, L. rs os — x 
 Crassulacex. 
 
 Bryophyllum calycinum, Salisb. “a ss a — x 
 Portulacee. 
 
 Portulaca oleracea, Z. T.-L. - e * x x 
 fiubiacex. 
 
 Guettarda speciosa, Z. 'T. a a ‘8 a x x 
 Morinda citrifolia, Z. 'T. _ 
 

 
 . Composite. 
 Ss me hus oleraceus, woe J., Sum., Ae dA, oe oo 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Dae 
 . 
 
 - Apocynacex. 
 
 ‘ ‘rosea, L. oe oe : ee oe 
 
 osla parvitlora, Hensl. fi a se 
 Goodenoviex. 
 
 a Koenigii, Vahl. T. ..  .. ee Bee 
 
 oC Cordia Miescrdate, Lam. T., T-L., Austr. 
 _ Tournefortia argentea, L, T., W. Ind. 
 
 ee, Solanacex, 
 = Ehysalis peruviana, L. 
 
 .y 
 » 
 
 Acanthacex. 
 " Dieliptera Burmanni, Nees, var. J., 'T. 
 
 — Labiate. 
 _ Leonurus sibiricus, Z, .. e oe ee * 
 
 Verbenacex. 
 - Stachytarpheta indica, Z. Trop. Asia. 
 
 Nyctaginex. 
 ee iavia diffusa, W, var. B, var. y, Hensl. T. 
 oe Pisonia inermis (?), Forst. Australia. ; 
 
 _= 
 
 Amaranthacex, 
 A Achyrunthes argentea, Lam, var. Villosior. T. 
 
 . 
 
 . Urticacez. 
 i Gaudichaudiana, Hensl. .. 
 
 fe Euphorbiacex. 
 - Ricinus munis, L. Cultivated. : 
 _ Aleurites Moluccana, W. (A. 8. Keating.) 
 
 Graminex. 
 Panicum sanguinale, Lin, var. T. 
 -Stenotaphrum lepturoide, Henst. 
 
 . epturus repens, Yorst. T. ‘ 
 
 \ ostis amabilis, Z. T. 
 
 _Fimbristylis glomeratus, Nees. 
 
 a Palmacee. 
 Cocos nucifera, L., var. Bali. (A. 8. Keating.) 
 Pandanacex. 
 
 Pa oe sp. (Holman.) é- > ce 
 
 Musci. 
 ¥ Typnum rufescens, Hook, 
 
 a" Fungi. 
 : Poly porus luridus ‘2 o * . as 
 
 Asclepiadiacex. 
 Asclopis curassavica, ZT. J. .. a . Ay: 
 Bignonraceex. 
 Oro xylum indicum, Vent. Cultivated. a ee 
 Boraginex. 
 
 _ IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 
 
 x 
 
 x xX 
 
 x X 
 
 oe Kee 
 
 x 
 
 43 
 
44 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Il.—List of the Birps of the Keeling Islands. 
 
 Ploceus hypoxanthus, migrant, nesting in North and South Keeling. 
 
 Padda orizivora, in captivity. 
 
 Gallus baugkiva, introduced. 
 
 Herodias nigripes, nesting on the Pisonia trees. 
 
 Demigretta sacra, nesting on the Pisonia trees. 
 
 Nycticorax caledonicus. Here found for the first time west of Timor. 
 
 Totanus canescens, migrant. 
 
 Scolopax rusticola, migrant. 
 
 Rallus philippensis; found in great abundance ; brings up domestic chicks, 
 when her own eggs have been changed lor those of fuwis or ducks. : 
 
 Anas sp., migrant. 
 
 Anous stolidus. 
 
 Sula piscatrix. 
 
 Tachypetes minor. 
 
 Phaeton candidus. 
 
 Gygis candida. 
 
 IlI.— List of Corars collected in the Keeling Islands. Determined by 
 S. O. Ripuey, M.A., F.L.S., and J. J. QUELCH, B.Sc. - 
 
 Hydrocoralline. 
 Millepora verrucosa, Mil.-Ed. & Haime. Outside the reef. 
 forskali, Mil.-Ed. & Haime. Inside the reef. 
 Madreporaria. 
 Madrepora scandens, Klaz. 
 orbipora, Dana var. Inside the reef. 
 Anacropora, Ridley, characterised as follows :—* 
 
 ANACROPORA.T 
 
 Madreporide of ramose habit. Axis and apex of branches formed by 
 a@ spongy ccenenchyma. New calicles formed centripetally, 7.e. from the 
 base towards the apex; no calicle of any kind at the apex. Calicles 
 equally distributed all round stem and branches, with a tendency to an 
 arrangement in longitudinal series. Septal system well developed, com- 
 prising two cycles of six septa each, two (approximately upper and lower) 
 primaries being larger than the four lateral primaries. 
 
 Obs.—Anacropora is based on the new species A. forbesi, described 
 below, and on some forms which occur in the Challenger. collection of 
 reef-corals, to be hereafter described by Mr. J. J. Quelch, of the Natural- 
 History Museum; I have had the advantage of Prof. Duncan’s and Mr. 
 (uelch’s opinions on this important form, opinions which have been freely 
 and kindly given. The general growth and other characters given above 
 are essentially the same in all the species. In all the growth is low, the 
 branches tending to form inosculations between each other; the stem and 
 branches are cylindrical, and no distinct tubular calicles are formed. 
 
 From Madrepora this genus differs markedly in the centripetal 
 production of the calicles, by which the youngest calicles are always the 
 uppermost. From the subgenus Isopora, Stud:r (see loc. inf. cit.), it differs 
 in the same point, as well as in itsslender dendroid growth; but the first 
 distinction is not somarked at first sight, since the peculiar growth of 
 Isopora almost necessitates the absence of a distinct apical calicle, but (as 
 
 * Extracted from Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist., April 1884, p. 285, pl. xi. 
 + From ay, privative particle, &xpos, summit, répos, passage or pore ; in allusion 
 to the absence of pores from the ends of the branches, 
 
IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. 45 
 
 stated Joc. cit) the mode of gemmation is centrifugal in Isopora, as in 
 Madrepora, s. str. Other points distinguishing Anacropora from most 
 species of Madrepora are the formation of the axis of the branches by a 
 spongy ccenenchyma, whereas in many (if not all) Madrepore this, in 
 accordance with the centrifugal habit of budding, is occupied to a greater 
 or less distance from the ends of the branches by the downward prolon- 
 gations of the septa and the interseptal spaces of the apical calicle. The 
 rudimentary condition of the external part of the calicle distinguishes 
 Anacropora; for although it is commonly found (I refer to the sunk 
 calicles occurring in so many species between the prolonged tubular or 
 nariform ones) in some, it is never, so far as my knowledge extends, found 
 in all the calicles in any Madrepora. 
 
 Although in its general appearance it differs remarkably from even 
 the branched species of Montipora, yet the structural differences which 
 separate Anacropora from this genus are very far less distinctive than 
 those which separate it from Madrepora. In the first place, in spite of 
 its external resemblance to Madrepora, it has the same system of calicular 
 budding (viz. centripetal, from the distal coenenchyma) which we find 
 well developed in the ramose Montipora; the trabecular structure and the 
 two-cycled arrangement of the septa is the same in both genera. On the 
 other hand, whereas in Anacropora there is always an undifferentiated 
 ccenenchymal apex, devoid of calicles, to the branches, in Montipora this 
 apex appears always to bear at least one calicle on its surface. In Anacro- 
 pora the calicles are always rather distant and tend to form lines, and are 
 slightly raised above the surface, forming low hill-like eminences, whereas 
 in the ramose Montipora (e.g. digitata, Dana, divaricata and superficialis, 
 Briiggemann), which on the whole most closely approach Anacropora, the 
 calicles open flush with the surface, are crowded indiscriminately, and no 
 linear arrangement is apparent. In Montipora foliosa, it is true, the 
 calicles, especially on the posterior aspect of the corallum, are elevated in 
 a similar manner; but the foliate growth and the monticular ¢nter-cali- 
 cular eminences of the upper surface seem to remove this species far from 
 the ramose Montipore. It seems to me not improbable that, for the 
 reasons I have indicated, these ramose forms may have to be separated 
 from the foliate and massive species of Montipora. 
 
 The relations of Anacropora may be thus shortly stated :—Anacropora 
 has the general growth of Madrepora, but the manner of budding of 
 Montipora. 
 
 The following is a description of the single species referable to this 
 genus which I am able to describe; owing to the interest attaching to the 
 type, I have allowed myself to give its characters at full length :— 
 
 ANACROPORA FORBESI, [idley. 
 
 Corallum branching frequently, dichotomously, occasionally subtri- 
 chotomously; branches given off in succession in a subspiral manner, 
 the planes of successive bifurcations varying from about 80° to 100° with 
 regard to each other; angle between branches composing bifurcation 80° 
 to 100°. Stem and branches slightly curved, the apical branches more 
 strongly so, cylindrical, except the terminal branches, which tend to curve 
 outwards and taper gradually to points; diameter, main axes 6-7 millim., 
 intermediate and terminal branches about 4 millim., greatest length 
 between bifurcations of main branches about 30 millim., terminal twigs 
 25 millim. long. Calicles arranged more or less definitely, for the most 
 part in series which follow approximately the longitudinal axis of the 
 stem and branches, the calicles of one series alternating with those of the 
 
46 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 adjacent series; series about 2 millim. apart, calicles about 2 to 2°5 
 millim. apart in the series. Calicles forming, everywhere but on the tips 
 of the branches, low rounded elevations, by the gradual rising of the 
 surface towards their inferior margins to a height of *25 to *7 millim., 
 and occasionally by the similar but very slight elevation of their’ superior 
 margins. Calicles orbicular, looking upwards; orifice of adult calicles 
 ‘5 to ‘7 millim. in diameter ; on the tips of the branches they open on 
 the level of the surface of the corallum, are more or less imperfectly 
 defined from the surrounding loose ccenenchyma, and measure ahout *25 
 to ‘4 millim. in diameter. Septa trabecular, consisting of vertical series 
 of horizontal pointed projections from the wall of the calicle, beginning just 
 below its margin, distinct. Primaries about *25 millim. in length in full- 
 erown calicles, comprising two main, opposite ones, variously placed (7.e. 
 from parallel to the long axis to at an angle of 45° with the same), which 
 converge towards the bottom of the calicle, where they meet and form a 
 vertical plate; the other primaries are slightly smaller and do not meet 
 below. Secondaries varying from about half the diameter of primaries to 
 mere points on the side of the ealicle; the secondary septum between the 
 two lateral primaries is sometimes wanting. 
 
 Corallum slightly vermiculate, always covered by minute points at 
 surface (at apex looser, very porous); the outer one-quarter of diameter 
 (except at apex, formed of a denser tissue, in which the calcareous 
 trabeculee exceed in diameter the spaces between them; the central one- 
 half of the diameter (viz. usually about 2 millim.), consisting of a loose 
 tissue, in which the calcareous bars are only about half the diameter 
 of the intervening spaces; the meshes of this tissue (as seen in transverse 
 section of a branch) elongate towards margin, smaller and relatively 
 shorter at centre. Apices of branches, to a distance of from 2-8 millim. 
 from the ends, formed of the looser axial coonenchyma, and carrying 
 more or less rudimentary calicles, which are at least 1 millim. from all 
 other calicles in the same longitudinal series. 
 
 Hab. Keeling Islands, Indian Ocean; deeper water inside reef. 
 
 Represented by a single colony and a detached branch, which has 
 lived independently after its fracture from the parent specimen.* 
 They were collected and presented to the British Museum by Mr. H. O. 
 Forbes, F.Z.S. &c., who has already (Proc. Roy. Geogr. Soc., Dec. 1879) 
 described these islands, and with whose name I have much pleasure in 
 associating this new type. The chief colony measures 83 millim. (84 
 inches) in height, 100 millim. (4 inches) in greatest breadth, and 55 millim. 
 (2+ inches) from front to back; the detached branch, which bifurcates 
 three times, was about 60 millim. long when alive. Parts of the corallum, 
 owing either to an evanescent pigment or to traces of animal matter, have 
 a most delicate pink tint. 
 
 Some interesting points are brought out by the detached branch; this 
 occurs unrooted, but obviously had been broken off from the colony 
 while yet alive, and lived subsequently free. As commonly happens in 
 such cases, the fractured surface has healed over; but in this case the 
 new waterial is not a continuation of the superficial coenenchyma of the 
 adjacent side over the stump, but the prolongation outwards of the loose 
 central coenenchyma which has developed on itself five or six young 
 calicles. Here also the law of centripetal gemmation asserts itself, these 
 calicles occurring on the sides of a central cone of loose coenenchyma, of 
 
 * See Moseley’s ‘Notes by a naturalist on Challenger” ‘Some specimens 
 of this (Porites) species were unattached, though living, being in the form of 
 rounded masses, entirely covered with living polyps... and I suppose from 
 time to time rolled over by the waves”: p. 344. [H. O. F.] 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 IN THE COCOS-KEELING ISLANDS. — AT 
 Bike . q 
 
 , 1 millim. long, is undifferentiated and bears no calicles. 
 followed in the process of repair exhibited by a broken 
 ich on the larger specimen. The wide angle of bifurcation 
 es causes the colony to assume a low decumbent form, and 
 ; does, neighbouring branches into juxtaposition, cives rise 
 5% “the branching in various planes gives it a broad top. 
 Behinopora lamellosa, Hsp. . 
 M ontipora digitata, Dana. Inside the reef. 
 sp. near expansa, Dana. 
 
 Po ?orites levis, Dana. (?) Outside the reef, 
 -Payonia lata, Dana. Inside the reef. 
 
 Pocillopora brevicornis, Lam. Inside the reef. 
 Ji elegans (?) Dana. Outside the reef. 
 

 

 
 ee betel 
 
 IN JAVA. 
 
CHAPTER L. 
 
 SOJOURN AT GENTENG IN BANTAM. 
 
 On the road—The Sundanese language—Every man a naturalist—Bird-life at 
 Genteng—W eaver-birds’ nests—A native rural bazaar—Forest devastation 
 —Geological structure of the district—A wonderful case of mimicry in a 
 spider. 
 
 On my return to Java from the Keeling Islands, I had the 
 good fortune to meet in Batavia with a countryman, Mr. 
 Alexander Fraser, one of the few freeholders of land in Java, 
 
 who though just starting for England, kindly offered me the 
 
 privilege of collecting over his vast property situated in the 
 western province of Bantam, and the hospitality of his house if I 
 should choose to stay there. This offer I was only too pleased 
 to accept, in order, while still within reach of civilisation, to 
 become acquainted with, and gain some practical experience 
 of, the necessities and modes of tropical life and camping, of 
 which the novitiate traveller has such crude ideas—for collect- 
 ing among tropical vegetation is very different from the ideas 
 formed of it from like operations conducted amidst the sparse 
 woods of our temperate climate ;—but principally to isolate 
 myself from all Kuropean-speaking people for the purpose of 
 acquiring, with the aid of a few books and chiefly with my 
 native servants, the Malay language as rapidly as_ possible. 
 In addition, the late Dr. Scheffer, the kind Director of the 
 Botanical Gardens in Buitenzorg, had recommended to me 
 Bantam as a profitable and by no means, botanically at least, 
 
 well investigated province to visit. 
 
 Having hired a couple of cahars—a sort of spring-cart with 
 one horse, the general mode of conveyance when one travels as 
 I was about to do, off the main roads,—one for myself and one 
 for my baggage, I left Batavia at sunrise on the 12th of March, 
 by the western road along the low northern shore lands towards 
 
 E 2 
 
o2 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 Rangkas-betong, by the famous highway which Dandels, one 
 of the most energetic and far-seeing of all the early Governors- 
 General of the Dutch Indies, constructed along the whole : 
 length of the island, and which has proved one of its greatest 
 benefits and colonizers. To expedite the journeys of their 
 various officials round their districts, at every five or six miles 
 stable stations have been erected by the Government, where 
 horses are changed, and which private travellers can obtain 
 permission to make use of on payment of small mileage dues. 
 
 All along the road we passed little sign-posts with Arabic 
 inscriptions indicating how many yards of the road on each side 
 of them must be kept in repair by the various neighbouring 
 villages. As the keeping of the roads is most strenuously 
 enforced, they are never out of condition, and are a pleasure to 
 drive over. Here and there it has been impossible to bridge 
 the larger rivers in steep defiles where the stream is deep and 
 swift, and these are crossed in large picturesque rafts which 
 can accommodate horse and carriage and quite a little crowd 
 of people at once. These rafts, by sliding on rattan rings 
 along two strong cables of thick rattan canes securely fixed to 
 both banks, are floated over by the ferrymen by hand-over- 
 hand traction on these cables. 
 
 When on the road the dress of the Sundanese, especially of 
 the women and children, is invariably bright coloured ealicoes, 
 clean and newly ironed, and their head-covering is the gaily 
 lacquered bamboo hats for whose manufacture they are famous. 
 The burdens of the men, whatever they may consist of, are 
 made up in neat and tastefully arranged bundles, carried 
 always on the shoulders, suspended at the ends of a bamboo— 
 and it is amazing what a weight these thick-set stout fellows 
 can carry in this way. Such a ferry, in the sunlight, with a 
 background of green, wooded slopes, presents therefore always 
 a gay scene and forms quite an interesting break in the drive. 
 
 The country throughout was rather tame, being quite stripped 
 of forest, but full of interest, as the land, being entirely under 
 rice cultivation, was laid out in the most beautiful system of 
 terraces. The province of Bantam is densely populated, and 
 scarcely a portion of uncultivated land was to be observed. 
 As Mr. Wallace in his ‘Malay Archipelago,’ has fully 
 described, this method, introduced by the Hindus on their 
 
IN JAVA. o3 
 
 
 
 invasion of Java, has attained a wonderful development 
 throughout the whole of the lowlands in the western part of 
 the island. In these sawahs, as the natives call their wet rice 
 fields, the grain is cultivated in small square borders separated 
 by green, grass-ridged banks, kept constantly flooded with 
 water brought by a wonderful network of channels in which 
 an intricate system of sluices or valves distributes or cuts 
 off its flow wherever desired. The entire face of such low 
 hills as have a gentle slope, are thus laid out down to their 
 bases, and at the season when the young corn is in its fresh 
 green leaf the country is extremely pretty. 
 
 Mr. Fraser’s estate-house at Tjikandi-Udik, which I reached 
 late in the evening, I found to stand amid a rich and entirely 
 cultivated country, but as regards my pursuits a barren terri- 
 tory. After enjoying for a few days the hospitality of the 
 Administrator I moved south-westward to Genteng in the 
 higher region of Lebak, where I was told some forest was then 
 being felled. 
 
 Here I built a bamboo-hut in an open spot with an exhila- 
 rating look-out on the high mountains, and alone with my 
 Malay boys began my initiation into the language of the 
 country, and into the nomadic joyous life of a field naturalist. 
 It is a life full of tiresome shifts, discomforts, and short 
 commons; but these are completely forgotten, and the days 
 seem never long enough amid that constant flash of delighted 
 surprise that accompanies the beholding for the first time 
 of beast or bird or thing unknown before, and the throb of 
 pleasure experienced, as each new morsel of knowledge amal- 
 gamates with one’s self. 
 
 Between myself and my boys for a time the most ludicrously 
 comprehended sign-language was carried on, till their speech, 
 whose sentences to my unaccustomed ears seemed composed of 
 but one continuous word of innumerable uncouth syllables, 
 began to shape itself into distinguishable elements, when to 
 my amazement, as if some obstruction had been suddenly re- 
 moved from my ears, I comprehended them as if I had been 
 brought up among them. Before many weeks were over I 
 could converse in the Malay tongue with an amount of freedom 
 that surprised me. 
 
 The language of the district, that is, of the Sundanese them- 
 
o4 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 selves, though containing many Javanese and Malay words, is 
 quite distinct from either. It is a coarser and rougher speech, 
 and it was some time before I managed to acquire it; but I 
 found it to be—like broad Scotch in comparison with pure 
 English—one of great expressiveness. 
 
 As soon as I was able to follow their discourse with ease, 
 my daily talks with these men were a source of great pleasure 
 tome. I soon found out that in regard to every thing around 
 them, they were marvellously observant and intelligent. Not 
 one or two only, but every individual amongst them seemed 
 equally stored with natural history information. There was 
 not a single tree or plant or minute shrub, but they had a name 
 for, and could tell the full history of; and not a note in the 
 forest but they knew from what throat it proceeded. Every 
 animal had a designation, not a mere meaningless designation, 
 but a truly binomial appellation as fixed and distinctive as in 
 our own system, differing only in the fact that their’s was in 
 their own and not in a foreign language. Often enough this 
 designation has so close a resemblance and sound to Latin, 
 that it has been accepted by Western naturalists as if it had 
 been so. One of the liveliest and most obtrusive of the squirrels 
 in Java and Sumatra is a little red-furred creature called by 
 the natives twpaz, and to distinguish it from its more arboreal 
 congeners they add, from its habit of frequenting branches 
 near the ground, the word tana (for earth); and Tupaca tana 
 is its accepted scientific term among Huropean naturalists. 
 
 They have unconsciously classified the various allied groups 
 into large comprehensive genera, in a way that shows an ac- 
 curacy of observation that is astonishing from this dull- 
 looking race. In this respect they excel far and away the 
 rural population of our own country, among whom without ex- 
 ageeration scarcely one man in a hundred is able to name one 
 tree from another, or describe the colour of its flower or fruit, 
 far less to name a tree from a portion indiscriminately shown 
 him. How acute is their observation is exemplified by their 
 name for the groups of true parasitic plants of the Loranthacezx 
 (or Misletoes), which are disseminated chiefly by being unob- 
 trusively dropped by birds in convenient clefts of trees, 
 they denominate as Tat booroong (“ birds’ excreta”); while to 
 epiphytic plants they give a name that has almost the signi- 
 
IN JAVA. Do 
 
 
 
 
 
 ficance of our own scientific term. The great group of the 
 Laurels, which so vary in flower and foliage as to be separated 
 off into many genera by botanists, are all designated by the one 
 name Huru, but they are differentiated by no fewer than sixty- 
 three different specific terms, in every instance indicating 
 some prominent distinguishing characteristic of flower, fruit or 
 timber; and on examination, very few indeed of them turn out 
 not to belong to the Laurel family. Of oaks, Passang in their 
 tongue, they discriminate sixteen different species, commencing 
 their list with the one they consider most typical, just as we find 
 in our own catalogues of birds, among the Warblers for instance, 
 Cisticola cisticola representing the typical species, the Sunda- 
 nese say Passang betul, or “true oak,” for what they consider 
 the oak of oaks. Among animals their system of classification 
 into genera is not carried so far; but all the more distinctive 
 groups, especially those living in communities, and every 
 insect and bird, if in any way peculiar or where it can be mis- 
 taken for another, have each their own binomial appellation. 
 
 I was disappointed in finding that the forest about Genteng 
 was nearly all second growth, with scarcely any of what I was 
 principally in search of for my herbarium—specimens of the 
 primal trees. Birds, however, were more plentiful, and in the 
 avenue-like roads and paths, stretching for miles in the neigh- 
 bourhood, butterflies and other insects were very abundant, 
 but though interesting to me, and occasionally new to the 
 ornithology or entomology of the Malayan region, most of 
 them were species well known to science. Amid an expanse 
 of low scrub in front of my door, on which the buffaloes from 
 the neighbouring villages wandered more at their own will 
 _ than directed by their young herds, stood within gunshot of 
 my verandah table several tall trees, from which, frequented as 
 they were at all hours of the day by different kinds of birds, I 
 was constantly able to add with great ease to my collection, 
 and to observe the habits of many species that it would have 
 been difficult otherwise to see. 
 
 I never tired of watching the friendly relation between the 
 Buffalo-birds (Sturnopastor ialla and S. melanopterus) and 
 their bovine hosts. They used to collect in impatient flocks 
 about the hour of the return of the herd to their feeding 
 grounds from the wallowing holes, whither in the heat of the 
 
56 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 day they retired; and as soon as the cattle arrived they 
 would alight on their backs in crowds, to the evident satis- 
 faction of the oxen, which they relieved of troublesome parasites. 
 Although the herd-boys commonly lay dozing at full length 
 on the buffaloes’ backs, the birds seemed to know that they 
 were quite safe, and would even alight on the bare backs 
 of the sleepers, and from that hop on to the haunches of the 
 quadruped ; and when the herds were driven away at nightfall 
 the Sturnopastors flew off to the forest. 
 
 One of the rarer birds obtained here was the fine red- 
 crested Woodpecker (Miglyptes tristis), which much resembles 
 the M. gramminithorax of Malherbe, which is not found in 
 Java, while the former, distinguished by its uniform black 
 breast and abdomen, is confined to this island.* In the 
 gloaming, frequenting leafless branches, I often saw the 
 minute Butterfly Hawk (Microhierax fringillarius), not so 
 large as a shrike, darting after grasshoppers, moths and late- 
 flying butterflies. Among the songsters that made them- 
 selves more noticeable by frequenting the isolated trees near 
 my house, were the golden Oriole (Oriolus macwatus) and 
 the yellow crowned Bulbul (Trachycomus ochrocephalus), 
 which late in the evenings filled the whole neighbourhood 
 with their melodious, clear, bell-like notes; while two members 
 of the Cuckoo family, the “ Doodoot ” (Lhinococcyx curvirostris) 
 and the “ Boot” (R. gavanensis) used to utter their curious — 
 bleating call in the low jungle behind, often breaking with their 
 weird modulations the stillness of the midnight. In a neigh- 
 bouring clump of canes a colony of Yellow Weaver-birds 
 (Ploceus hypoxanthus) had thickly hung their nests. Hach nest 
 was artfully suspended between the interlacing leaf-stems of one 
 or two reeds in a most skilful way, to secure as much as possible 
 the safety of their eggs during the waving of the reeds in the 
 wind. ‘These nests were not made fast to, but strung lightly 
 on the leaves, sometimes passed through the fork of another 
 leaf to form a pulley, so as to permit, by sliding along in the 
 swaying of the grass, of their retaining their vertical position, 
 which they must do, weighted as they are by a layer of clay in 
 the bottom of the nests. I noticed that many of them were 
 
 * Cf. Hargitt, ‘ Ibis, 1884, pp. 190, 191 ; and Nicholson, op. cit., 1879, 16. 
 
IN JAVA. ot 
 
 deserted from the breaking of one or more of their eggs, after 
 incubation had progressed some way ; in others, where there 
 was only one chick, there was often one egg which had been 
 cracked and become dried up, so that even with all their 
 acute architectural devices the wind appears to wreck the 
 hopes of the little builders. 
 
 What can be the use of the mud in the Weaver-birds’ nests 
 has often been discussed. Mr. E. L. Layard, the accurate 
 
 
 
 oe 
 So vat Sys 
 
 i 
 
 if 
 me yy 
 tLe 
 
 AB 
 
 
 
 TWO FORMS OF THE NEST OF THE WEAVER BIRD. 
 
 observer and well-known ornithologist, has suggested * “ that 
 these lumps of mud were used as scrapers on which to clean 
 the birds’ bills”; but if in the nests I found here they were 
 used for this purpose, it must have been only at the commence- 
 ment of their task, for the layer of mud would be quite con- 
 cealed at an early stage of their nest-building. I am more 
 inclined to the belief that they are to weight and balance 
 the nest, from having found loose among the lower stems 
 unfinished portions, which were evidently the foundations of 
 
 * Nature, Dec. 1879. 
 
08 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 nests, which had been blown down before being properly 
 secured, or were they, perhaps, abandoned unsuccessful first 
 attempts? They had the exact shape of tiny key baskets, such 
 as are used by housewives, one end being weighted with a layer 
 of clay. I was also struck by the fact that different indi- 
 viduals had adopted different forms of nests, which, though 
 agreeing fundamentally, exhibited considerable variation. 
 The bulk of them were of the 
 retort shape, set with a long- 
 necked orifice hanging down- 
 ward, but a considerable number, 
 of the progressionist party per- 
 7 haps, had inaugurated a new 
 ABANDONED NEST-FOUNDATION, fashion by inverting the retort 
 and shortening the neck, giving 
 the doorway an upward and forward entrance, which, if more 
 enticing to depredators, may perhaps be less awkward to 
 the owners. I much regret that I have no note as to the 
 position of the clay in this new form ; for what was previously 
 the bottom of the nest had become a dome over the bird, while 
 its eggs were laid in what would correspond in the older pattern 
 with the upper curve of the neck of the retort, so that if my 
 belief is correct that the use of the clay is to retain the nest 
 in its vertical position, it ought to be found occupying a 
 corresponding site in the new structure. It is possible, however, 
 that the deviation from the ancestral pattern may result from 
 an unequal distribution of clay during the laying of the 
 foundation of the nest, causing it to become reversed without 
 diverting the bird’s purpose from completing its work as best 
 it could, under the altered conditions. 
 
 One of the bird-cries that early attract attention is 
 the reiterated, unvaried call of the Bell-birds (Megalemine), 
 poured forth in long stretches from the top of some high 
 tree, where, from their plumage according so well with 
 the varied colours of the vegetation, they can select a perch 
 even in a prominent branch without fear of discovery. I 
 obtained five different species of these birds, which belong to 
 one of the most varied and beautiful-plumaged families, and of 
 which some idea may be obtained by turning over the pages of 
 Marshall’s splendid monograph of the group. 
 
 
 
IN JAVA. og 
 
 
 
 A stream which ran near my house was crossed by one of 
 those native-made bamboo bridges, which spaciously housed 
 and thatched over, have such a neat and attractive look about 
 ‘them. Every Sunday morning the district market was held 
 under it, which from an early hour presented quite a gay and 
 busy scene. I never missed, if I could, an opportunity of 
 visiting these Passars, as 1 found them delightful resorts for 
 studying the native in his gayer moods; for market-day was 
 always their holiday, and the market-place the rendezvous for 
 the youths and maidens of the district, as well as the news- 
 exchange of the old men. The vendors, to be early at the 
 market-place, generally spent Saturday evening and night 
 under the shade of the bridge, or collected in the neighbouring 
 village, whence the tinkle of the gamelang, their characteristic 
 musical instrument, would be heard throughout the livelong 
 night in company, if not concord, with the higher notes of their 
 curiously drawling voices, repeating tjeritas or semi-historical 
 tales, and adaptations from the Koran, varied by pantins or 
 love songs. 
 
 The collection of wares exposed for barter was always a 
 curious one: sarongs from their own looms—whose incessant 
 elick-clack is one of the most pleasant and characteristic of the 
 industrial sounds in their villages—calicoes and silk kerchiefs 
 from Manchester and Liverpool; Clark’s Paisley thread of 
 “extra quality”; native-made horn combs, gay ornaments of 
 spangles and beads, and the elaborate inlaid silver breast-pins 
 for which the district is famous, worn by every female to fasten 
 her.loose upper robes ; and bamboo hats in great variety. The 
 Bantamese are specially noted for the manufacture of these last, 
 and some of them are really exquisite specimens of plaiting. 
 In the finest quality, made of carefully prepared narrow strips 
 _ of the wood, a quiet but lucrative trade is done with European 
 markets by unobtrusive go-betweens who collect them through 
 the district. In Bantam they cost a mere trifle, but in Paris, 
 I am informed, they are retailed at a profit of nearly one thou- 
 sand per cent., as true Panama hats, from which it is difficult 
 to distinguish them. One of these hats, that I treated to the 
 roughest jungle work of three years, was scarcely impaired 
 when we parted company. 
 
 Other than these the chief articles were household utensiis, 
 
 
 
60 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 large copper jars for the preparation of rice, beat out of sheet 
 copper by native smiths, and shallow iron basins (of Singapore 
 make) for the daily extraction of the oil of the cocoa-nut 
 palm, without which and its twin brother the bamboo, native 
 prosperity and happiness would cease. There were besides 
 pues of various species of dry-salted river fishes, chiefly Gabis 
 (Ophiocephalus striatus), Soro and Regis (Barbus duronensis 
 and B. emarginatus), and Guramé (Ophromenus olfax), the 
 most prized of them all, in which a large and profitable trade 
 is carried on with distant parts of the Archipelago. Many of 
 these fishes are carefully preserved in the larger wet rice fields, 
 where during the rainy season, having abundance of food, they 
 multiply with great rapidity. During the hot season, when 
 the sawahs have become, except in the centre, dry fields, the 
 fishes are captured in immense numbers. Fried in fresh oil 
 they form an excellent dish, and are the staple flesh-food of 
 the natives. 
 
 A vile odour which permeates the whole air within a wide ~ 
 area of the market-place, is apt to be attributed to these piles 
 of fish ; but it really proceeds from another compound sold in 
 round black balls, called trassi. My acquaintance with it was 
 among my earliest experiences of house-keeping at Genteng. 
 Having got up rather late one Sunday morning—an opportu- 
 nity taken by one of my boys to go unknown to me to the 
 market, which I had not then visited—I was discomfited by 
 the terrific and unwonted odour of decomposition :—“ My 
 birds have begun to stink, confound it!” I exclaimed to 
 myself. Hastily fetching down the box in which they were 
 stored, I minutely examined and sniffed over every skin, 
 giving myself in the process inflammation of the nostrils and 
 eyes for a week after, from the amount of arsenical soap I 
 inhaled ; but all of them seemed in perfect condition. In the 
 neighbouring jungle, though I diligently searched half the 
 morning, I could find no dead carcase, and nothing in the 
 “ kitchen-midden,” where somehow I seemed nearer the source ; 
 but at last in the kitchen itself I ran it to ground in a compact 
 parcel done up in a banana leaf. 
 
 “« What on the face of creation is this?” I said to the cook, 
 touching it gingerly. 
 
 “Oh! master, that is trassi.” 
 
IN JAVA. 61 
 
 «Trassi? What is ¢rass?, in the name of goodness !” 
 
 “Good for eating, master ;—in stew.” 
 
 “ Have J been eating it?” 
 
 “Certainly, master; it is most excellent (enak sekal?).” 
 
 “You born fool! Do you wish to poison me and to die 
 yourself? ” 
 
 “May I have a goitre (dak gondok), master, but it 7s excel- 
 lent!” he asseverated, taking hold of the foreskin of his throat, 
 by the same token that a countryman at home would swear, 
 « As sure’s Death!” 
 
 Notwithstanding these vehement assurances, I made it dis- 
 appear in the depths of the jungle, to the horror of the boy, 
 who looked wistfully after it, and would have fetched it back, 
 had I not threatened him with the direst penalties if I dis- 
 covered any such putridity in my house again. I had then to 
 learn that in every dish, native or European, that I had eaten 
 since my arrival in the Hast, this Extract of Decomposition 
 was mixed as a spice, and it would have been difficult to 
 convince myself that I would come by-and-bye knowingly to 
 eat it daily without the slightest abhorrence. Dampier, who 
 mentions it in his ‘ Voyage,’ seems to have formed his acquaint- 
 ance with it in a more philosophic spirit, for he describes it in 
 these terms :—“As a composition of a strong savour, yet a 
 very delightsom dish to the natives. ‘To make it they throw 
 a mixture of shrimps and small fish into a sort of weak pickle 
 made with salt and water, and put into a tight earthen vessel. 
 The pickle being thus weak, it keeps not the fish firm and 
 hard, neither is it probably so designed, for the fish are never 
 gutted. Therefore in a short time they turn all to a mash in 
 the vessel ; and when they have lain thus a good while so that 
 the fish is reduced to pulp, they then draw off the liquor into 
 fresh jars and preserve it for use. ‘The masht fish that remains 
 behind is called Trassi. “Tis rank scented; yet the taste is 
 not altogether unpleasant, but rather savoury after one is a 
 little used to it.” 
 
 One of the most terrible scourges of the island, and for which 
 no remedy seems possible, is the spread everywhere of a species 
 of tall, slender cane—useless for fodder and good only for thatch, 
 —which the natives call alang-alang. Every spot unoccupied 
 by forest, falls a prey to it; and when once it gets the upper 
 
62 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 hand, forest seeds refuse to root init. Neither the incessant 
 rains, nor the driest droughts of summer kill it. The fire may 
 sweep the surface bare, but it fails to touch the roots, which 
 spring again in fresher vigour through the ashes. Deep shade 
 alone seems to check its growth. The native in the hill 
 regions does not make sawahs (which are good from year to 
 year), but constantly takes in his fields by felling, where he 
 lists, in the unbroken forest. As, after reaping for only two 
 seasons this new land, (on which he scatters his seed between the 
 fallen trunks), he deserts it for a newer patch, broad tracts of 
 the island are every year becoming covered with this ineradi- 
 cable exhauster of the soil, and by-and-bye the virgin forests 
 of this country will have entirely ceased, if some sharper 
 supervision be not exercised by the Government over the 
 timber-felling mania of the native. As Colonel Beddome 
 remarks of the like devastation in India: “the value of the 
 timber thus destroyed by one man, calculating it by the 
 number of logs it might have yielded, is at least twenty times 
 as great as the value of the crop of ragz obtained in the 
 two years that cultivation is continued. The low jungle 
 which comes up after desertion of kuwmarc land is more 
 injurious to health than lofty forest open below. Besides 
 health considerations and decrease of rain and moisture, this 
 rude system of culture [results in] the destruction of valuable 
 timber . . .. and rendering of land unfit for coffee.” 
 
 The present vegetation of the whole of this portion of the 
 island stands on an unbroken layer of volcanic mud, which tells 
 of a period of almost unparalleled volcanic activity. Wherever 
 the streams have opened sections, or a road cutting has 
 been made, numbers of great trees, some of them thirty yards 
 in length, are exposed in a completely silicified condition, and 
 often so perfectly as to have preserved to their cores the - 
 structure of their tissues. Standing on some one of these bare 
 denuding slopes, I have tried to picture to myself the terrible 
 outburst in which this region must have been overwhelmed, at 
 a date which cannot geologically have been very remote ; for 
 lying prostrate in great numbers as they were,—many of them 
 having fallen across each other,—the forest of which they 
 formed a part must have been suddenly entombed beneath an 
 avalanche of the petrifying mud so deep that the powerfully 
 
IN JAVA. 65 
 corroding tropical rains of centuries are only now beginning to 
 exhume them. 
 
 About the only piece of exposed strata in this part of Java, 
 I believe, lay within a few miles of my hut. Out of itI picked 
 fossil fragments of vegetable stems, and of broken Ostraa 
 
 and Pecten shells, closely resembling those still in the adjacent 
 
 seas, and showing that an elevation of some 200 to 300 feet had 
 taken place here at a recent period. That these subterranean 
 forces whose activity resulted in the varied physical changes 
 which West Java has experienced (such as the subsidence of 
 the Sunda Straits), had not ceased, was brought home to me 
 with all the vivid and indescribable sensations that accompany 
 one’s first experience of powerful and unwonted phenomena. 
 On the 28th of March, 1879, about eight o’clock in the even- 
 ing, while sitting under my verandah, a sudden shiver and 
 a violent bumping wave passed as it were through me and 
 under my feet, bewildering me, but affording me the ineradicable 
 experience of a violent earthquake. For some thirty seconds 
 my: hut and all its contents were lustily shaken, but otherwise 
 no harm was done. Some forty miles away, however, at the 
 base of the Gedé volcano, the village of Tjanjoor was wrecked 
 and several lives lost amid the falling houses, while on the 
 following day volumes of smoke and ashes were emitted by the 
 mountain whose summit formed the background of my view. 
 One of my most interesting discoveries here was a case of 
 mimicry in a spider, of the kind named alluring coloration by 
 Mr. Wallace. The spider itself, to which I had given the 
 provisional name of Thomisus decipiens, has proved interesting 
 as the type of a new genus, named Ornithoscatoides by the 
 Rey. O. P. Cambridge. The great interest attaching to this 
 find, however, is on account of its habits. JI had been allured 
 into a vain chase after one of those large, stately flitting 
 butterflies (Hestia) through a thicket of prickly Pandanus 
 horridus, to the detriment of my apparel and the loss of my 
 temper, when on the bush that obstructed my farther pursuit 
 I observed one of the Hespervide at rest on a leaf on a bird’s 
 dropping. I had often observed small Blues at rest on similar 
 spots on the ground, and have often wondered what the members 
 of such a refined and beautifully painted family as the Lycx- 
 mde could find to enjoy at food seemingly so incongruous for 
 
64 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 a butterfly. I approached with gentle steps but ready net to 
 see if possible how the present species was engaged: It per- 
 mitted me to get quite close and even to seize it between my 
 fingers ; to my surprise, however, part of the body remained be- 
 hind, and in adhering as I thought to the excreta, it recalled to 
 my mind an observation of Mr. Wallace’s on certain Coleoptera 
 falling a prey to their inexperience by boring in the bark of 
 trees in whose exuding gum they became unwittingly entombed. 
 I looked closely at, and finally touched with the tip of my 
 
 
 
 A BIRD'S EXCRETA-MIMICKING SPIDER. 
 
 finger, the excreta to find if it were glutinous. Tomy delighted 
 astonishment I found that my eyes had been most perfectly 
 deceived, and that the excreta was a most artfully coloured 
 spider lying on its back, with its feet crossed over and closely 
 adpressed to its body. 
 
 The appearance of the excreta rather recently left on a leaf 
 by a bird or a lizard is well known. Its central and denser 
 portion is of a pure white chalk-like colour, streaked here and 
 there with black, and surrounded by a thin border of the dried- 
 up more fluid part, which, as the leaf is rarely horizontal, often 
 runs for a little way towards the margin. The spider, which 
 belongs to a family, the Thomisidex, possessing rather tubercu- 
 
IN JAVA. 65 
 
 lated, thick, and prominent abdomened bodies, is of a general 
 white colour; the underside, which is the one exposed, is pure 
 chalk white, while the lower portions of its first and second 
 pair of legs and a spot on the head and on the abdomen are jet 
 black. 
 
 This species does not weave a web of the ordinary kind, but 
 constructs on the surface of some prominent dark green leaf 
 only an irregularly shaped film of the finest texture, drawn out 
 towards the sloping margin of the leaf into a narrow streak, 
 with a slightly thickened termination. ‘The spider then takes 
 its place on its back on the irregular patch I have described, 
 holding itself in position by means of several strong spines on 
 the upper sides of the thighs of its anterior pairs of legs thrust 
 under the film, and crosses its legs over its thorax, Thus rest- 
 ing with its white abdomen and black legs as the central and 
 dark portions of the excreta, surrounded by its thin web-film 
 representing the marginal watery portion become dry, even to 
 some of it trickling off and arrested in a thickened extremity 
 such as an evaporated drop would leave, if waits with con- 
 fidence for its prey—a living bait so artfully contrived as 
 to deceive a pair of human eyes even intently examining it. 
 
66 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 SOJOURN AT KOSALA IN BANTAM. 
 
 Leave Genteng—Native blacksmiths at Sadjira—Hot springs of Tjipanas— 
 Birds and plants at Tjipanas—Invitationto Kosala—The Kosala estate 
 —The curious disease Lata—The Wau-wau—Birds—Bees—White ants 
 —-Great trees—Long drought and its consequences—'‘l he Hemileia vas- 
 tatriw, a fungoid blight and the buffalo disease—Flora and Fauna of 
 Kosala Mountains —Singular living ants’ nests and their develop- 
 ment—Orchids at Kosala and some curious devices for securing self- 
 fertilisation—Ancient remains in the forest—The Karangs and their 
 curious rites—The Badui—Religion and superstitions of the people of 
 Bantam—Leave Kosala. 
 
 AFTER a very interesting period spent at Genteng, I removed 
 turther to the south in search of a station on the mountains, 
 whose distant slopes I could see covered with the great forest 
 which I had never yet beheld close, and under whose shade I 
 had ever had such an intense longing to roam, the charm of 
 whose grandeur, after spending unbroken years in it, remains 
 still as one of the most delightful reminiscences of my 
 residence in the tropics. Halting for a night at Sadjira I was 
 taken by the chief of the village to see numerous blacksmiths 
 at work in the manufacture of knives and krisses. The 
 bellows used by them in order to give a continuous blast was 
 made of two large cylinders of bamboo vertically set in the 
 ground, in each of which a piston made of a dense bunch of 
 feathers wound round a rod, was worked alternately, the wind 
 being conducted through a small tube at the bottom of each 
 bamboo, to meet in one pipe before passing below the fire. 
 Pande is the Sundanese term for a worker in iron; the 
 word is of Sanscrit origin, and originally meant “learned.” 
 Though this signification is not attached to it by the natives 
 now, the smiths are held in the greatest esteem by them. 
 Before the Hindu invasion the people of Java used only stone 
 implements and hatchets, often of great elegance of design 
 
IN JAVA. 67 
 and beautifully polished and turned. Dr. Solewijn Gelpke, 
 the director of “the cultures” in Java, has formed at great cost 
 a splendid collection of the implements of the stone age of the 
 island, some of which I had the pleasure of examining on my 
 way home in 1883. Of the beautiful workmanship of the 
 early Javanese one or two fine specimens are to be seen in the 
 ethnological collection in the British Museum. 
 
 . Inthe village of Tjipanas, in the Tjiberang valley, distant 
 
 only a few miles from Sadjira, I spent a week. The village 
 derives its name from the hot-springs (which the name signifies) 
 that issue from the ground there at a temperature of 137°- 
 140° F. The place is permeated with the odour of sulphur 
 rising from the springs, which had been dug out into cisterns, 
 round which a crowd of sufferers from long distances were 
 constantly seated, bathing their diseased and ulcerated limbs 
 and rheumatic joints. 
 
 An abrupt hill which overshadowed the village, rising up to 
 about 1000 feet above the sea, reminded me, in the way in 
 which it was composed of great blocks of disrupted rock lying 
 in all positions and at every angle one on another, of the 
 titanic structure of the hills of Cintra to the north of Lisbon. 
 Both probably owe their disintegrated condition to the con- 
 stant earthquakes by which they are shaken. Growing on 
 the thin soil on the tops of the rocks I gathered one of the most 
 conspicuous of ground orchids, a tall white-flowered species of 
 Calanthe, nearly all of whose flowers 1 was surprised to find 
 had been shed without being fertilised ; while in the crevices 
 grew luxuriant Osmundas (0. javanica) closely resembling 
 the Royal-ferns found at home. 
 
 In the young forest on its slopes I shot three interesting 
 birds; a male and female of the Platylophus galericulatus, a 
 crow-like bird with a handsome black crest resembling a 
 cockatoo’s, finally settling the question that Count Salvadori 
 was correct in asserting its Sumatran ally (P. coronatus) to be 
 a distinct species, and not the female of the Javan bird as was 
 supposed by Mr. Elliott; the other the Fairy Blue-bird (Irene 
 turcosa), one of the finest plumaged birds of the island, which 
 is highly prized in Europe for plumassiers’ purposes. Its wings, 
 throat and breast are deep velvety black, while its head, 
 back and tail are of glistening turquoise-blue, as if the colour 
 
 F 2 
 
68 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 had been enamelled on in an unbroken sheet. It was found 
 quite solitary or in company only with its mate, and never in 
 flocks. 
 
 I was pleased to see the liveliness of the village children, 
 who amused themselves with games very similar to those of 
 children at our country schools at home—games of marbles 
 played with small stones, very like what is called kezp in the 
 north of Scotland, with varieties of chevy, tig, and blind-man’s 
 buff. 
 
 Hearing that I had come to reside in the village, a country- 
 man, Mr. H. Lash of the Kosala estate, sent me a warm 
 invitation to make his house in the mountains my head- 
 quarters, which, as Tjipanas was a very unprofitable station, I 
 was only too glad to do. Kosala was only a forenoon’s ride up 
 through winding valleys to an elevation of 1800 feet. 
 
 My gratitude can never be warmly enough expressed to this 
 esteemed friend (now, I regret to say, no more) and his accom- 
 plished wife, for their great hospitality and kindness; and for 
 the assistance which for many months was afforded me by my 
 host, both personally and through his servants and horses, in 
 making botanical collections in the large stretch of virgin 
 forest which he owned, specimens of whose great trees were 
 special desiderata with me. 
 
 Orchids abounded in great variety in the unopened forest, 
 while the tree trunks that had been lying felled in the coffee 
 gardens for some time were overrun with the species more 
 delighting in sunshine. Being soon struck with the large 
 number whose flowers fell without setting any fruit,—a fact 
 that first struck me while botanising some years before in the 
 south of Europe,—I determined to institute a series of observa- 
 tions on these plants, a project in which Mr. Lash—himself 
 one of those who sedulously cultivate science in their leisure 
 hours—entered with the greatest interest, and never wearied 
 of personally searching for specimens, for whose rearing he 
 put a great part of his beautiful garden ungrudgingly at my 
 disposal. 
 
 The estate house, planned by himself, was a large tiled 
 edifice of planks not subject to the attacks of insects, elevated 
 a few feet on piles standing on an asphalt floor, isolated by a 
 stream of water entirely encircling the building, so that it was 
 
IN JAVA. 69 
 
 absolutely free from the tropical pest of ants. Perfectly con- 
 structed and furnished for a tropical climate, and provided 
 with a large and valuable library, it was admirably situated 
 for a botanical station—the hills rising round it to three 
 thousand feet,—whose advantages the want of the necessary 
 instruments alone prevented me from fully utilising. In no 
 part of the world can the climate reach greater perfection, 
 I think, than in the mountain regions of these islands, among 
 which [I first felt the real charm of the life I had espoused. 
 The first thing of interest to attract me, within a few hours 
 of my arrival at Kosala, was a case in one of the servants of the 
 house of that curious cerebral affection called by the natives 
 lata. It is of a hysterical nature, and is confined chiefly to 
 women, although I have also seen a man affected by it. On 
 being startled or excited suddenly, the person becomes lata, 
 losing the control of her will, and cannot refrain from imitating 
 whatever she may hear or see done, and will keep calling out as 
 long as the fit lasts the name—and generally that word alone—of 
 whatever has flashed through her mind as the cause of it: “ He- 
 ih-heh, matjan!” (tiger) ; “ He-ih-heh, boorung besar!” (a great 
 bird). Her purpose will be arrested, as, if walking, she will 
 stop short, and on going on again will often follow some other 
 course. The prefatory exclamation is an invariable symptom, 
 seemingly caused by involuntary hysterical inspirations. 
 According to the degree of alarm the symptoms may remain 
 only a few moments or last for the greater part of a day, 
 especially if the patient be prevented from calming down. 
 The afflicted, if not very seriously affected, are not altogether 
 incapacitated from performing the duties to which they are 
 accustomed. ‘The most curious characteristic of the disease is 
 their imitation of every action they see. On one occasion, 
 while eating a banana, I suddenly met this servant with a 
 piece of soap in her hand; and, perceiving she was slightly 
 lata, but without appearing to take any notice of her, I made 
 a vigorous bite at the fruit in passing her, an action she 
 instantly repeated on the piece of soap.. On another occasion, 
 while she was looking on as I placed some plants in drying 
 paper, not knowing that caterpillars were objects of supreme 
 abhorrence to the natives, I flicked off in a humorous way 
 on to her dress one that happened to be on a leaf; she was 
 
70 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 instantly intensely lata, and, throwing off all her clothing, 
 she made off like a chased deer along the mountain road, 
 repeating the word for caterpillar as she ran, until compelled 
 by exhaustion to stop, when the spasm gradually left her. My 
 own “boy,” who would unconcernedly seize all sorts of snakes 
 in his hands, became one day lata also, on suddenly touching a 
 large caterpillar. My host’s maid once, while alone at some 
 distance from the house, having come unexpectedly on a large 
 lizard—the Baiawak—was seized by a paroxysm; dropping 
 down on her hands and knees to imitate the reptile, she thus 
 followed it through mud, water and mire to the tree in which 
 it took refuge, where she was arrested and came to herself. 
 Another case which came under my knowledge was more 
 tragic in its results. This woman, startled by treading in a 
 field on one of the most venomous snakes in Java, became so 
 lata that she vibrated her finger in imitation of the tongue of 
 the reptile in front of its head, till the irritated snake struck 
 her; and the poor creature died within an hour. 
 
 During the attack the eyes have a shghtly unnatural stare, 
 but there is never a total loss of consciousness, and throughout 
 the paroxysm the patient is wishful to get away from the 
 object affecting her, yet is without the strength of will to 
 escape or to cease acting in the way I have described. Lata 
 persons are constantly teased by their fellows, and are often 
 kept in an excited state for whole days. 
 
 In the early mornings here, I was at first constantly awakened 
 by the loud plaintive wailings of a colony of Wau-waus, one of 
 the Gibbons (Hyalobates leuciscus) from the neighbouring forest, 
 as they came down to the stream to drink. On first hearing 
 their cries one can scarcely believe that they do not proceed 
 from a band of uproarious and shouting children. Their “ Woo- 
 oo-ut woo-ut woo-00-ut —— wut-wut-wut wutwut- 
 wut,” always more wailing on a dull, heavy morning previous 
 to rain, was just such as one might expect from the sorrowful 
 countenance that is characteristic of this group of the Quad- 
 rumana. They have a wonderfully human look in their eyes ; 
 and it was with great distress that I witnessed the death of 
 the only one I ever shot. Falling on its back with a thud on 
 the ground, it raised itself on its elbows, passed its long taper 
 fingers over the wound, gave a woful look at them, and fell 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
, ; IN JAVA. 71 
 
 back at full length dead—“ saperti orang ” (just like a man), as 
 my boy remarked. A livespecimen brought to me by a native, 
 I kept in captivity for a short time, and it became one of the 
 most gentle and engaging creatures possible; but when the 
 calling of its free mates reached its prison-house, it used to 
 place its ear close to the bars of its cage and listen with such 
 intense and eager wistfulness that I could not bear to confine 
 it longer, and had it set free on the margin of its old forest 
 home. Strange to say, its former companions, perceiving 
 perhaps the odour of captivity about it, seemed to distrust its 
 respectability, and refused to allow it to mingle with them. I 
 hope that amid the free woods this taint was soon lost, and 
 that it recovered its pristine happiness. The habits of the 
 Wau-wau closely resemble those of the Siamang of Sumatra. 
 
 Large stretches of the forest in the immediate neighbourhood 
 of the house were planted in coffee gardens, cultivated not as 
 in Ceylon in the open sun, but under moderate shade chiefly of 
 the Erythrina indica, in patches cleared out of the forest some 
 distance isolated from each other so as to prevent the spread, 
 if possible, of any outbreak of the coffee disease (Hemileva), and 
 to give each garden a chance of escape. Seen from the heights 
 above, these parterres scarlet with erythrina flowers, had a very 
 brilliant effect on the landscape. In the newer gardens many 
 of the felled trees still lay rotting, and there insects and birds 
 were in abundance; but Java has been so well collected over 
 by excellent entomologists and naturalists for so long a period 
 that few novelties could be expected. Nevertheless, in all 
 departments, species of interest were constantly falling under 
 my notice for the first time. 
 
 I used to place a lamp close to my open window, in hope of 
 attracting moths; but, while very unsuccessful in this respect, 
 I had frequent visits from the smaller sorts of bats, which, on 
 my slamming the window to, were, though safely trapped, not 
 ensnared within the folds of my butterfly net without a deal 
 of clever dodging on their part, and of noisy disturbance of fur- 
 niture on mine. Of these one was a very rare species, Celops 
 frithii, and another has been described as new to science by Mr. 
 Oldfield Thomas, under the name of Kerivoula javana, a form 
 intermediate between the Philippine and New Guinean types. 
 
 For many months after my arrival the earliest hours of the 
 
72 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 morning were always resonant with the rich deep notes of the 
 Tjiung or Béo, as the Javanese Grackle (Gracula javenensis) is 
 named. They used to frequent a papaya-tree which grew just 
 outside my window, whose fruit they are extremely fond of, 
 whence they poured forth their song in the intervals of feed- 
 ing. This bird, which is of arich metallic blue-black plumage, 
 has the nape of the neck adorned with two deep orange lappets, 
 and is greatly prized as a pet by the natives, from its deep 
 and ventriloquistic voice, its wonderful aptitude in learning to 
 speak and whistle, and for its comical ways. <A very high price 
 is often given for a well-trained bird, even by the natives. 
 The Grackle is somewhat difficult to rear at first, but when 
 once accustomed to confinement it thrives well—I have seen 
 one which had been caged for nearly eighteen years—especially 
 if a bamboo cylinder be placed in the cage for it to creep 
 into at night, as, when in freedom, it does into a hole in a tree. 
 
 Pink-headed doves (Ptilopus porphyreus) fed in flocks on the 
 fies; and at 8000 feet I stumbled on a nestful of six fledg- 
 lings of Pomatorhinus montanus, which were being tended, I 
 was surprised to observe, by three parents; but I was unable to 
 satisfy myself positively whether the additional parent was 
 male or female; my boy, however, who on most subjects was 
 well informed, nid that “the female ‘ Patjing Pe has always 
 two husbands.” 
 
 No insect sooner attracts the slider vate of the new comer 
 than the destructive carpenter bees, Xylocopa, which with 
 noisy ostentation are incessantly boring their wide tunnels 
 into the woodwork of every building. To sit watching their 
 entrance, and clay each up in a living tomb of its own 
 digging, was one of the most hilarious amusements of the 
 boys. Many other species of Hymenoptera attract atten- 
 tion by their curious persistence in building mud-cells from 
 every hanging thread, in locks and hollow tubes, and in every 
 unoccupied corner, stocking them with the caterpillars and 
 spiders which is all the store their parental feelings induce 
 them to lay up for the benefit of their progeny. In the forest 
 the resemblance of their domiciles to their surroundings makes 
 them less easy to discover; but the accompanying figure of 
 a nest of one of the EHumenide (Zethus cyanopterus) shows 
 how artistic and ingenious some of these creatures are. 
 
IN JAVA. 73 
 
 
 
 A colony of these bees had covered the stems of a species 
 of Asclepias, overgrowing the face of a high cliff; and it 
 took a sharp eye to distinguish their nests from clusters of 
 the withered leaves of the climber. Composed of chips of 
 leaves glued together, they were protected from the rain by 
 a projecting roof, which for the purpose of concealment was 
 cunningly shaped like the foliage of the plant itself. There 
 
 
 
 NEST OF THE ZETHUS CYANOPTERUS. 
 
 was quite a crowd of them, and as they circled about, their 
 dark wings flashing in the sun as they darted out and into 
 their nests, they reminded me of swallows about a church 
 window. 
 
 Less obtrusive, more destructive, but full of interest, are the 
 operations of the various colonies of termites or White-ants. 
 It is impossible to observe the habits of those that bore in the 
 
74 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 interior of planks and trees ; but by the species, that build large 
 excrescences on the tree-trunks, one must admire the specially 
 happy way in which has been settled the difficult, question of 
 how to keep their thoroughfares clean and unobstructed, and 
 with the least trouble dispose of the refuse of so large a colony. 
 It is worth while to break down a portion of their tough walls, 
 to watch for half an hour the outrush of the city guards with 
 their pikelhaube heads, who with elevated antenne sniff round 
 everywhere for the cause of alarm, charging about frantically, 
 nodding and beating their spiked frontlets against the walls in 
 a most threatening way, till they think the danger past, when 
 they retire and order out hordes of builders to repair the 
 breaches, who, distinguished at once by the absence of a frontal 
 spike, have till then kept away from the scene. 
 
 After a general survey of the ruins, each worker retires to 
 fetch a small squarish chip, carefully examines the exact place 
 into which it is to be built, then applying to that spot the 
 tip of its abdomen, it excretes a drop of a pale glutinous sub- 
 stance, places in it the chip, and hammers it down by the 
 combined application of its maxilla and antenne. While the 
 building is going on acompany of soldiers stalk about the walls 
 guarding the workers, every now and then tapping their heads 
 with the conscious air of a constable reminding them that his 
 presence is their safety. Thus block after block with amazing 
 rapidity is cemented together, and the sewage of the colony is 
 piled into the odourless homogeneous walls of their dwelling. 
 
 I was astonished one day in making a sweep through a 
 swarm, as I thought of bees, which was buzzing overhead, to 
 find that it was composed of flies called by the natives Papan- 
 tong, a species nearly related to our common Blue-bottle. 
 
 Above the coffee gardens the heights, up to 4000 feet, were 
 clothed with virgin forest, full of noble giants of the woods. 
 In the gardens many of the finest of these trees had been 
 allowed to stand, where they exhibited all the stateliness and 
 grandeur of stem and crown which can be fully appreciated 
 only when surveyed at some distance off. Prominent for their 
 straight and shapely pillar-like stems stand out the Lakka 
 (Myristica iners), the Rasamala (Liquidambar altingiana), and 
 the white-stemmed Kajeput trees (Melaleuca leucadendron), all 
 of them rising with imposing columns, without a branch often 
 
IN JAVA. 18 
 
 
 
 
 
 for 80 and sometimes 100 feet. Of the other stately trees 
 here, I noticed the Mangosteen (Garcinia mangostana) and 
 the Vernonia javanica, a member of a family, the Composite, 
 that in our own country never attains any importance greater 
 than that of a moderate herb. 
 
 The season, however, was a very unfortunate one for enlarging 
 my herbarium. Little over ten per cent, of all the forest trees 
 in 1879 produced either flower or fruit. During 1877 a great 
 scarcity of rain prevailed, while in 1878 almost an unbroken 
 drought existed during the East-monsoon. The parched sur- 
 face of the ground broke up into ravine-like cracks, which, ex- 
 tending from four to five feet in depth and two to three in 
 breadth, destroyed great numbers of the forest-trees by en- 
 circling and snapping off their roots. Shrubs and small trees 
 in exposed places were simply burned up in broad patches. 
 Flowering was almost entirely suspended—so much so that the 
 wild bees could produce no honey, which in ordinary years is 
 one of the very abundant products of the forests. Crops of all 
 kinds failed, while devastating fires, whose origin could seldom 
 be traced, were so frequent in the forest and in the great alang- 
 alang fields, that the population lived in constant fear of 
 their villages and even of their lives and stock. It was in vain 
 that the natives, following their superstitious rites, carried their 
 cats in procession, to the sound of gongs and the clattering 
 of rice blocks, to the nearest streams to bathe and sprinkle 
 them; the rain after such a ceremony ought to have come, 
 but it did not. 
 
 The Batavia Handelsblad states the loss in Java, consequent 
 on the drought of 1878, to have been on coffee, ten millions 
 of guilders; on sugar, seven; on tobacco, five; and on rice 
 fifteen—equal in all to a loss in English money of £8,000,000. 
 The West-monsoon (November to March) of 1878-9, memorable 
 for its excessive rain, was followed by an abnormally wet and 
 sunless dry season, which was almost as disastrous for the 
 cultures of the island as its predecessors had been from 
 drought. The coffee-trees produced abundance of flowers, but 
 as scarcely a bee was to be seen anywhere, very few of these 
 became fertilised or produced berries—so easily is the balance 
 of nature disturbed. Later in the season, however, the coffee 
 shrubs produced a second show of flowers, which in a multitude 
 
76 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 of cases did not proceed further than knobbed buds, the bulk 
 of which I found, by marking and carefully examining them 
 every day, produced fruit without expanding their petals, or, to 
 use the scientific term, cleistogamously. 
 
 Marching in company with these disastrous seasons came 
 the terrible epidemic among the buffaloes (the natives’ stay 
 in the cultivation of their fields, and the main part of their 
 riches), which had not disappeared in the middle of 1883, 
 being less violent only from paucity of victims. The plague 
 was nearly coincident with the blight—fortunately not of a 
 very severe nature—of the Hemileia vastatria in the coffee 
 gardens. It is a remarkable fact that the buffalo disease 
 and the Hemileia appeared without, as far as can be traced, 
 extraneous contagion, on the western coasts of Sumatra 
 (happily for that island in a slight degree only), and on the 
 extreme west of Java, whence it vaulted in most eccentric 
 riot throughout the whole island. Not only was the coffee 
 blighted, but the grass meadows and the forest trees also were 
 so covered, especially in places with a westerly exposure, with a 
 fungoid disease as to become a subject of native remark. One — 
 could not help suspecting that these noxious germs had been 
 brought by the winds, and that perhaps even the plague in 
 the herds had resulted from the blighted grass on which they 
 fed. The correctness of this view seems to some slight degree 
 corroborated by the information I subsequently obtained from 
 natives and others in various parts of the Archipelago. In 
 Sumatra, not only the buffaloes suffered, but the elephants, the 
 deer and the wild pigs died in the forest in immense numbers, 
 and, by preying on the dying herds, even the tigers fell 
 victims to the stalking pestilence. In Timor also, in the 
 higher parts of the interior of the island, the cattle were 
 attacked, while in the southern plains the pigs and the horses, 
 which there run wild in herds, were found scattered about in 
 the forest dead. 
 
 Closely following the bad years and the bovine pestilence, 
 which deprived them of the means of cultivating their lands, 
 came a scarcity bordering on famine and a fever epidemic of a 
 virulent kind, to which the natives succumbed in thousands. 
 The tale of the woes of their province must surely have 
 seemed to them full and running over when the voleanic wave 
 
 ~~. 
 
IN JAVA. 77 
 
 from the eruption of Krakatoa, in 1888, overwhelmed its sea- 
 board and washed so many of their fellows to destruction. 
 
 Notwithstanding the bad season, by hunting far and wide 
 my herbarium grew slowly in bulk, for, though the great 
 trees were in a very destitute condition, herbaceous plants 
 were abundant, and not a few of the smaller shrubs and trees 
 had begun to recover somewhat. Among the most attractive 
 shrubs were the species of figs, of which there was an endless 
 variety. The whole group of the Artocarpex is remarkable 
 for beauty of foliage and fruit—as the hollow receptacle in 
 which their minute flowers and true fruits are developed is 
 often popularly called—for their striking habit and for their 
 useful products. Some of them, as the india-rubber producing 
 waringins and kawats species of Urostigma (U. microcarpum, 
 and consoctatum), are among the giants of the vegetable world, 
 and its most relentless parasites and tyrants. Brought by 
 some wandering bird or fruit-eating quadruped to the cieft of 
 a high tree, the seed germinating drops down all round its 
 host long tendril-like roots, which in a few seasons become 
 indissoluble bonds that interlace, grow together, and close up 
 the tree-stem that gave it its support, till its life is choked 
 out, and only here and there, before it finally disappears, can it 
 be seen through latticed apertures, like an Inquisition martyr 
 built into the wall. The young kawat grows, shoots upward 
 its top and 
 
 *‘ spreads her arms, 
 Branching so broad and long, that on the ground 
 The bended twigs take root; and daughters grow 
 About the mother-tree, a pillared shade.” 
 
 Less stately but not less beautiful are the shrub forms, the 
 species of Hamplas (Ficus microcarpa, amplas, and politoria) 
 whose rough leaves provide the natives with ready-made sand- 
 paper; the Ficus cordifolia, the Amismata (Ficus aspera), 
 and the Kihedjo—a bushy shrub, whose fruit, always in 
 profusion along its branches, is when ripe of a rich purple 
 hue, and unripe of the brightest vermilion or carmine colour, 
 in brilliant contrast to its dark foliage; while the semi- 
 parasitic climbing Ficus radicans delights to cling to the 
 tallest trees of the forest. Its fruit, which is as large as an 
 orange, is put forth throughout the whole extent of its stem in 
 
78 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 profuse abundance, massed in clusters in every stage of growth ; 
 and as these in their passage to maturity assume all the diffe- 
 rent brilliant hues by which rich orange changes into the 
 sombre shades of purple, the effect against the background of 
 the tree-stem and of its own singularly chaste foliage is strik- 
 ing in the extreme, and is one of those objects that the eye can 
 meet every day with renewed pleasure. 
 
 The highest mountain in this neighbourhood attains an 
 elevation of nearly 5000 feet, and for the last 500 yards of its 
 ascent presented many interesting features. In producing 
 plants rarely found at so low an elevation on higher moun- 
 tains, the Javan flora on the pure volcanic clay differs from 
 that where the soil is more overlaid with forest humus. 
 Two ferns, a species of Gleichenia and the broad-fronded 
 Dipteris horsfieldi—here at its lowest altitudinal limit—pro- 
 fusely covered the ground; and, as if stretching their utmost 
 towards the heights where they naturally grow, rhododendrons 
 and a beautiful creeping species of LEricacezw (Gaultheria 
 repens) clothed the tops of the tallest trees. The lemon-scented 
 laurel (Tetranthera citrata), whose leaves and fruit give out a 
 sweet odour that can be detected a long way off, grew in 
 clumps; and its fruits, a favourite food of the Bulbuls and 
 the Bell-birds, retain their perfume even after they have been 
 dropped by these birds. . 
 
 At the summit pitcher-plants (Nepenthes phyllamphora) 
 appeared in profusion, climbing up the trees and running 
 over the ground among the moss, out of which peeped the 
 delicate bright star-like flowers of the Agrostemma montanum, 
 which always reminded me of the pretty European Chickweed 
 Winter-green (Trientalis europea) of our northern woods. 
 On one of the lower knolls I found perhaps the most in- 
 teresting plant in my Javan collection, a species of Petrza 
 (P. arborea), growing entirely wild in the forest. This genus, 
 belonging to the family of the Verbenacex, is almost entirely 
 confined to the South American continent; and it is of 
 extreme interest to find it, in this inexplicable way, cropping 
 up in a region so far removed from the centre of its distribu- 
 tion. A species from the island of Timor occurs, without 
 history, in the collection in the British Museum made by 
 Mr. Robert Brown; but these are the only two examples, so 
 

 

 
 To face page 49, 
 
 TRANSVERSE SECTION OF THE STEM OF Myrmecodia tuberosa. 
 
IN JAVA. 79 
 
 far as 1 am aware, hitherto collected uncultivated in the 
 Old World. 
 
 The 14th of June is to me memorable as being the day 
 on which for the first time I saw in its native habitat, and 
 gathered there, that most singular of the vegetable productions 
 of the Indian Archipelago, the Myrmecodia tuberosa and 
 Hydnophytum formicarum. Their most striking characteristic 
 will be indelibly marked in my remembrance by the sen- 
 sations other than mental, by which their acquaintance was 
 made. 
 
 In tearing down a galaxy of epiphytic orchids from an 
 erythrina tree, I was totally overrun, during the short momen- 
 tary contact of my hand with the bunch, with myriads of a 
 minute species of ant (Phezdole gavana), whose every bite was a 
 sting of fire. Beating a precipitous retreat from the spot, I 
 stripped with the haste of desperation, but, like pepper-dust 
 over me, they were writhing and twisting their envenomed 
 jaws in my skin, each little abdomen spitefully quivering with 
 every thrust it made. Going back, when once I had rid 
 myself of my tormentors, to secure the specimens I had 
 gathered, I discovered in the centre of the bunch a singular 
 plant I had never seen before, which I perceived to be the 
 central attraction of the ants. It was called Kitang-kurak by 
 my boy, who said it was the home of the ants. I was over- 
 joyed with the revelation that a slice struck off by my knife, 
 made of an intricate honeycombed structure swarming with 
 minute ants—a living formicarium. 
 
 In the space of a short search I found, generally high on 
 the trees, abundance of specimens of both genera, which, not 
 without several futile attempts and many imprecations and 
 groanings on the part of my boys, were brought to the ground ; 
 and, at the ends of a pole over their shoulders, up which the 
 infuriated dwellers would ascend to spread over their bare 
 bodies to their frequent discomfiture, they were at last safely 
 deposited in a spot in Mr. Lash’s garden, where I could 
 examine them with comfort without disturbing their inhabi- 
 tants. 
 
 The accompanying representation (page 80) represents the 
 general appearance of the epiphyte: a spine-covered bulb 
 surmounted by a cylindrical axis bearing leaves and minute 
 
80 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 flowers, while the longitudiual section on the opposite page 
 shows the complicate system of galleries—some of them 
 papillated—inhabited by the ants. 
 
 Observing the ants often employed in carrying out whitish 
 particles, I at first conjectured that the irritation of their 
 digging out a dwelling must have induced the swelling of the 
 bulb; and, curious to see the modus operandi of its commence- 
 ment, I decided to raise a few of them from seed. This turned 
 my attention to their flowers and fruit. The flowers are pro- 
 duced in deep spine-protected pits on the axis surmounting 
 
 
 
 ae pon 
 ae ae 
 Lona ‘ Jt ee 
 f (IF z See 
 el Pig Per = ios 
 i - 
 
 
 
 YOUNG PLANT OF MYRMECODIA TUBEROSA. 
 
 the bulb, and are remarkable for the extreme rapidity with 
 which the cycle of their functional changes are performed. 
 The pellucid white flower appears, and is followed by an 
 orange, watery fruit, whose seeds ripen and often germinate in 
 the little pits where they grow, all within the space of thirty- 
 six hours. 
 
 Some years later Dr. Burck, of the Buitenzorg Gardens, most 
 kindly showed me specimens and microscopic slides illustrating 
 some interesting observations * he had made on these flowers : 
 that the corolla segments rarely open (though a slight touch 
 
 * These have since been published in the ‘ Aunales du Jardin Botanique du 
 Buitenzorg,’ vol. iv., p. 16. 
 
IN JAVA. Sl 
 
 can effect it); that the pollen grains exsert their pollen tubes 
 while still in the anthers; and that both the external and the 
 internal surfaces of the lobes of the pistil are covered with 
 papille, indicating that these surfaces are functionally active. 
 I have never observed these flowers approached by the ants 
 that infest the interior, nor by any other insect, which to gain 
 admission to the flower, even if open, must be very small 
 indeed. The anthers and the pistil do not seem to reach 
 maturity together, yet it would seem that self-fertilisation 
 alone can take place; perhaps the tubes of the pollen grains 
 which fall to the bottom of the corolla manage to reach the 
 lower lobes of the pistil and produce fecundation. 
 _ The seeds I planted germinated with great freedom, and I 
 cultivated quite a number of young Myrmecodia, whose growth I 
 watched with the greatest interest. Many of them I kept quite 
 isolated from the interference not only of the Pheidole javana, 
 which seems to be the only species of ant which lives in these 
 plants in their native state, but of all other species, and I was 
 surprised to find that from their very earliest appearance this 
 curious galleried structure arose without the presence of the 
 ants, and that the plants continued to grow and thrive vigo- 
 rously in their absence as long as I cultivated them. Some 
 bulbs had a single canal reaching to their centre from a round 
 orifice opening generally close to the little*tap-root ; others 
 presented one or two loculi in the interior, without any 
 communication at first with the exterior, 
 partially full of a spongy substance look- 
 ing like its own degenerated tissue. These 
 chambers invariably developed a spongy 
 pith—which in a section it was not diffi- 
 cult to trace out in advance in the still 
 fleshy substance—towards and to open at 
 last at one or more spots on the exterior of “Syomow or  somnwann 
 the bulb. Secondary galleries, arising in oupeR ovz. 
 the same manner as the primary, soon formed communicating 
 channels, extending with age, throughout the whole of the 
 growing bulb. At a later period, in Amboina, where the 
 Myrmecodia and the Hydnophytum were very abundant, I 
 found many specimens containing a large central and quite 
 isolated chamber full of water—not rain-water—round which 
 
 G 
 
 
 
82 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 radiated the galleries tenanted by ants and their larve of the 
 same species as in Java. 
 
 Since my original observations, Dr. Melchior Treub, Director 
 of the Botanic Gardens in Buitenzorg, has conducted and pub- — 
 lished * a series of important researches into the development 
 of these bizarre plants, which have confirmed generally the 
 observations I had made, and have proved besides that what 
 I have called degeneration is the result of a transformation 
 into cork of the tissue of the plant; which, becoming entirely 
 dried up, gradually extends the galleries towards the exterior, 
 when the fluffy mass disappears or is carried out by the ants. 
 
 Notwithstanding these researches it remains still a mystery 
 what causes the development of these corky cells, what advan- 
 tage the plant derives from its unusual structure, and what is 
 the mutual benefit of this close relation between insect and 
 plant. That the ants should so persistently infest and yet 
 derive no advantage beyond accommodation from the plant, 
 seems unlikely; it is probable however that the papille in 
 the galleries, whose function is still an enigma, may afford some 
 nourishment to them, but that the insects are not absolutely 
 indispensable to the perfect performance of the functions of the 
 plant is certain from Dr. Treub’s observations. He suggests that 
 they perhaps ward off enemies from the plant, or that they may 
 remove, for their own nourishment, injurious excretions from 
 the papille of these channels whose office may be to distribute 
 air through the fleshy mass of the bulb. Altogether these 
 Myrmecodia are among the most singular of vegetable pro- 
 ductions, showing us how much we have yet to learn of the 
 intricate processes of nature. 
 
 I gathered here another interesting specimen in some 
 leaves of the Bryophyllum calycinum. As is well known, the 
 marginal notches of the leaves of this plant, when laid on the 
 ground or in a damp place, produce buds which develop into | 
 new plants. In the leaves I gathered here, however, complete 
 flowers and fruit were produced directly from the notches. 
 
 While botanising in Portugal, in the spring of 1877,t I was 
 remarkably struck by the number of orchids I gathered that 
 
 * Tn the ‘ Annales,’ sup. cit., vol. iii, pp. 180-157, from which the accom- 
 panying figures here reproduced are taken. 
 t Nature, vol. xvi. p. 102, 
 
 
 
IN JAVA. 83 
 
 
 
 seemed never to have had an effective visit paid them by any 
 of the crowd of bees, butterflies, and beetles, among which 
 they blossomed. They were mostly terrestrial species, ophrys 
 chiefly, and were some of them handsome, and very sweetly 
 scented ; yet they might as well have wasted their sweetness 
 on the desert air, for scarcely any of them ever lost their pollen 
 masses, or had these fertilising grains applied to their own 
 stigmas. Since then I have carefully examined all orchids 
 that I have encountered, and have been surprised at the 
 immense numbers which—possessing brilliant, small, and not 
 seldom even large flowers, often highly perfumed—never or 
 very rarely produce seed capsules, but which blossom and 
 fall without benefiting in any way their race. At Kosala I 
 was able to continue my observations both on those growing 
 naturally in the forest as well as on those I reared in Mr. Lash’s 
 garden, where, after once taking to the trees they were as 
 nearly as possible under natural conditions. The Cymbidium 
 tricolor produces flower-spikes often attaining a length of 
 nearly four feet, studded with florets which are rather sombre 
 in colour; yet it could scarcely be passed without attracting 
 admiration. Of the florets of several plants I counted, seventy- 
 nine per cent. had their pollinia intact, after, to all appearance, 
 having been exposed for a long time, and of those that had 
 lost their pollinia not one stigmatic surface had pollen grains 
 applied to it. On another occasion the whole of the florets 
 examined were unvisited ; while on a third occasion eighty- 
 nine per cent. of the florets examined had their pollinia safe in 
 the anthers, nine per cent. being damaged, either having lost 
 their labellum or having the column eaten by the larve ofa 
 species of Coccinellidez. One alone was fructified. 
 
 I gathered the rather rare Cymbidium stapelioides, growing 
 at a height of 2600 feet above the sea, flowering on a fallen 
 tree. I brought it home, 1000 feet lower, and fixed it to a tree- 
 stem, to which it at once took kindly. None of the flowers 
 which were expanded when I found it were fertilised; but one 
 of the bulbs had a stem with a solitary capsule. For three 
 weeks the plant remained in the condition in which I found 
 it, its large and handsome, though somewhat dull-coloured, 
 flowers retaining their perfect freshness during all this period. 
 I then took compassion on its barren state, and fertilised from 
 
 G 2 
 
84 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 their neighbours four of its florets. These alone of the sixteen 
 flowers bore fruit. A couple of months later a fine new spike 
 appeared, which I left to its own resources. For between four 
 and five weeks it exhibited a very fine tross of twelve flowers ; 
 but not one seed-capsule was produced. The insect life at the 
 lower station seemed quite as abundant as at the higher. 
 This orchid possesses no nectary, and its odour, if not 
 pleasant, is not disagreeable. ‘The viscid disk of its pollinia 
 is remarkable for its elasticity. After removing a pollen 
 mass from the anther, I applied it to the stigma of another 
 floret, and on withdrawing the pencil to which it was ad- 
 hering, it sprang back with an audible snap, the viscid disk 
 stretching quite one-eighth of an inch, without leaving pollen 
 on the stigma, for the floret did not set a capsule. The same 
 result followed after allowing the pollen to remain for some 
 seconds in contact with the stigmatic surface. After the lapse 
 of a week the viscid disk still retained its elasticity unimpaired, 
 so much so that I was able to extend it as often as ten times 
 for various distances up to nearly one-fifth of an inch before 
 the connection gave way—a sharp snap always accompanying 
 its relaxation. 
 
 One of the prettiest and commonest orchids here was a pure 
 white Dendrobium (D. crumenatum), which suddenly appears 
 in flower on all the trees of a district nearly on the same day. 
 I have examined many hundreds of flowers, and I am quite 
 sure, though I have not kept very accurate statistics of the 
 numbers, that not one in eighty ever sets a seed capsule. 
 
 Growing terrestrially in abundance in damp shady situa- 
 tions is another group of this family belonging to the genus 
 Calanthe. Calanthe veratrifolia produces quite a dense head 
 of elegant white flowers, but the number of those that become 
 fertilised are in enormous disproportion to those that fall off 
 barren. J have examined plants in numerous localities, in 
 heights amid the dense forest, as well as in more open 
 situations; I have studied them low down, both in the sun and 
 in the deep shade, but have invariably found that a very 
 small proportion produces fruit. Generally the pollinia are 
 
 found in the anther after the fall of the flower; but often they . — 
 
 are absent, without any pollen being left in return on the — 
 stigma. In five different plants, out of 360 florets examined, 
 
IN JAVA. 85 
 
 109 were withering with intact anthers, or had lost their pol- 
 len and were unfertilised, 245 had fallen off, six only had 
 produced capsules. ‘These are not selected instances, but the 
 result of the examination of five plants as they occur in my 
 note-book. I have several times found in various species of 
 Calanthe, specimens which at first I thought to be clezsto- 
 gamously fertilised, where the ovules were enlarged in the 
 ovary, and the flowers quite open; but close examination has 
 shown that this is the effect of the irritation of a small species 
 of Hymenoptera—a cynips probably. 
 
 Mr. Darwin, in his ‘ Fertilisation- of Orchids,’ enumerates 
 but four instances of self-fertilisation as coming under his 
 observation, namely : in Ophrys apifera, by the falling forward 
 of its own pollinia, which are then, by the agency of the wind, 
 brought into contact with the stigma—the plant being capable 
 also of cross fertilisation ; in Peristylis viridis, which is pos- 
 sible to be self-fertilised by its own pollen from the head of 
 the visiting insect; in Cephalanthera grandiflora, which is 
 perpetually self-fertilised by its pollen grains that rest against 
 the upper sharp edge of the stigma thrusting down their 
 pollen tubes into the ovary ; lastly, Dendrobium chrysanthum, 
 which may possibly be self-fertilised by its own peculiar acro- 
 batic pollen. In the additional instances here given, some 
 will be found to be singular and different, I believe, from 
 any hitherto recorded.* 
 
 The genus Phajus is an exceedingly handsonie and attrac- 
 tive coterie of orchids growing in open and sunny places, 
 throwing up from their large broad root leaves, stout erect 
 flower-stalks, one and a-half to two feet in height, crowded 
 with florets. The expanded sepals of Phajus Blumet mea- 
 sure laterally from tip to tip twelve to fourteen centimetres. 
 Their external margins are white and interiorly rich chest- 
 nut brown; the labellum is of a beautiful bright purple 
 magenta colour, margined with yellowish white. Its fringed 
 mouth forms a broad landing-stage for passing insects, for 
 whose benefit brightly coloured ridges point the way in vain 
 to the nectary, as, unfortunately for the visitor, it rarely con- 
 
 * From here to the top of page 96 may be passed over by the general 
 reader not interested in this subject made so fascinating by the studies of 
 Mr. Darwin given in the volume referred to above. 
 
86 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 tains any nectar. The column, embraced by the labellum, is 
 massive, expanding into a stigma eleven millimetres broad, 
 secreting an abundance of viscid matter, crowned with the 
 anther and its pollen, whose caudicles, composed of pollen 
 
 
 
 FIG. 1—PHAJUS BLUMEI, SHOWING AN- FIG. 2.—PHAJUS BLUMET, SHOWING THE 
 
 THER WITH POLLINIA REMOVED ; POLLINIA AVALANCHED DOWN- 
 C, STIGMA; F, BASE OF ANTHER; WARDS, CARRYING WITH THEM THE 
 G, ROSTELLUM. ROSTELLUM, G; A, ANTHER-CAP; B, 
 [The following figures are all slightly SWOLLEN POLLINIA; ©, STIGMA; 
 diagrammatic. | E, TIP OF CAUDICLES OF POLLINIA. 
 
 grains, protrude their tips from beneath the anther-cap. I exa- 
 mined more than one hundred and fifty flowers of P. Blumez, 
 but I did not find one that was not, or could be otherwise than, 
 self-fertilised. Its essential organs exist in two forms, slightly 
 but interestingly different. 
 
 
 
 FIG. 3.—BUD OF PHAJUS BLUMEI, SHOW- FIG. 4.—LONGITUDINAL SECTION OF 
 
 ING POLLINIA IN ERECT POSITION; COLUMN OF PHAJUS BLUMEI (SIDE 
 A, ANTHER-CAP ; B, POLLINIA; 0, VIEW); A, B, C, D, AS IN FIG. 3; 
 STIGMA; D, MEDIAN RIDGE. I, BOUNDARY OF STIGMA. 
 
 Flowers of the first form have, arching over the deep and 
 covered stigma, a well-developed tongue-shaped projection or 
 rostellum, on which he the caudicles of the pollinia, which - 
 have no viscid disk (Fig. 1). On each side, the rostellum 
 leaves between itself and the external walls of the column a 
 
IN JAVA. 87 
 
 narrow channel by which the viscid matter of the stigma 
 reaches the anther. In examining an advanced bud, the viscid 
 matter of the stigma is seen to be in large quantity and rather 
 liquid. It increases with the growth of the flower till it 
 overflows,—often before the bud opens—and, immediately on 
 its opening, inundates the pollinia, which now increase in size, 
 and either avalanche downwards, sometimes quite obliterating 
 the rostellum (Fig. 2, p. 86); or, while retaining their position 
 in the anther, emit their tubes over the narrower portion of 
 the rostellum into the stylary canal. Very often both anther 
 and stigma become quite filled up by the multitude of pollen- 
 tubes and by the swollen pollinia. AI] these plants produced 
 large and well-filled seed-capsules on every flower; but I 
 
 
 
 FIG. 5.—PHAJUS BLUMEI, SHOWING THE FIG. 6.—PHAJUS BLUMEI, SHOWING A 
 ANTHER ROTATED DOWNWARDS; A, MORE ADVANCED STAGE THAN FIG. 5; 
 0, AS IN FIG. 3. THE ANTHER-CAP A, HAS OPENED; 
 B, SWOLLEN POLLINIA; 0, E, AS IN 
 FIG. 2; K,.TIP OF ANTHER-CAP. 
 
 never saw an insect visit the plants during all my observations, 
 although the plants were situated where I could inspect them 
 constantly throughout the day or night. 
 
 Of flowers of the second form, examined many more examples. 
 Here there is no rostellum, nevertheless the boundaries of the 
 stigma are quite distinct (Figs. 3, 4, p. 86). On examining a 
 young bud, the anther (enclosing the pollinia) is seen standing 
 vertically erect on the top of the column—i.e. of the detached 
 column, without reference to its position in the flower—forming 
 as it were a pointed extension of it, and attached to it by its 
 minute filament. As the flower progresses in growth, the anther- 
 cap ruptures and rotates forward. When it has descended 
 through about 90°, it occupies (Fig. 5) the position which, if it 
 possessed a rostellum, it would naturally retain; but, having 
 
88 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 none, it continues to rotate through about 70° more, till it 
 comes into contact with the face of the column, that is with 
 the stigmatic cavity, which is very large, broad and full of viscid 
 matter (Fig. 6). ‘The whole surface of the lower four pollinia 
 come into contact with the viscid matter and sink well into it, 
 while the viscid matter finds its way gradually about all of 
 the pollinia. The inner members of the upper row of pollinia 
 sometimes escape this inundation, but it seems of little avail to 
 the plant for its cross-fertilisation, for they remain throughout 
 covered by the anther-cap. The tips of the caudicles, how- 
 ever, remain in most cases unaffected throughout, but I have- 
 found it difficult to remove any of their pollen grains. The 
 inundated pollinia have no obstacles to bar the way of their 
 tubes to the ovary. On clearing out with a blunt instrument 
 
 
 
 FIG. 7.—PHAJUS BLUMEI, SAME AS FIG. 6, FIG. 8. —PHAJUS BLUMEI, SHOWING EXTRA 
 WITH ANTHER-CAP MERELY DOTTED ANTHER, H; A, B, 0, AS IN PREVIOUS 
 IN ; A, B,C, ASIN PREVIOUS FIGURES. FIGURES, 
 
 the swollen pollinia from the stigma, it can be seen that from 
 nearly the top of the column, along the posterior median line, a 
 prominent ridge (Fig. 3, p. 86) runs down almost to the ovarium. 
 In the light afforded by the dissection of an Arundina speciosa 
 (to be mentioned below) this would appear to represent the 
 absent rostellum. Large seed-capsules were produced by every 
 flower of this form. This Phajus is also remarkable for pro- 
 ducing, at times two, supernumerary anthers on the top of the 
 column one on each side of the normal anthers (Fig. 8). 
 
 Here then we have an orchid whose flowers present every 
 attraction to insects to pay at least a first visit (when they 
 would find no nectar), all of them gay, with a nectary, and 
 a beautifully painted and finger-posted labellum, yet rarely 
 possible to be anything but self-fertilised. 
 
Ss 
 
 IN JAVA. 89 
 
 
 
 I have examined other species of the genus, and found them 
 to be fertilised in almost identically the same manner. 
 
 A not uncommon orchid by the sides of second-growth 
 forest or banks of streams over all the Archipelago, is the 
 
 
 
 FIG. 9.—SPATHOGLOTTIS PLICATA (FRONT — FIG. 10,—SPATHOGLOTTIS PLICATA (SIDE 
 
 VIEW); A, ANTHER-CAP; B, POLLINIA; VIEW), WHEN ANTHER HAS ROTATED 
 C, CAUDICLES OF POLLINIA; D, DOWNWARDS; A, ©, E, F, G, AS IN 
 STIGMA; E, FRONT OF COLUMN; F, FIG. 9; H, ROSTELLUM. 
 
 TIP OF ANTHER-CAP; G, FLAP OF 
 MARGIN OF STIGMA. 
 
 white or purple terrestrial orchid Spathoglottis plicata, B1., 
 whose method of fertilisation differs from that of the Phajus. 
 Its pollinia lie in a rather deep anther, which runs out into a 
 
 
 
 FIG. 11. — SPATHOGLOTTIS PLICATA, FIG. 12.—SPATHOGLOTTIS PLICATA, 
 LONGITUDINAL SECTION (SIDE VIEW); (FRONT VIEW), WITH THE ANTHER 
 A, C, E, F, H, AS IN PREVIOUS ROTATED DOWN OVER THE STIGMA; 
 FIGURE; B, POLLINIA. [DIAGRAM- LETTERS SAME AS IN PREVIOUS 
 MATIO. | FIGURES. 
 
 long sharp triangular rostellum far overarching the stigma 
 (Figs.10,11). The pollinia-caudicles, composed of pollen grains, 
 protrude from below the anther case and le on the rostellum, 
 projecting a little beyond its tip, as seen in the lateral view of 
 
90 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 the longitudinal section, Fig. 10. The stigma is triangular, 
 with its apex downwards. There is no nectary. The stigmatic 
 substance becomes viscid even in the 
 young bud; and as soon as the anther has 
 rotated into its normal position, it begins to 
 increase in quantity—the increase is often 
 so great that it bulges out in front of the 
 rim of the stigma—and, swelling up, flows 
 over into the anther by the canals (seen in 
 Fig. 15), between the column and the edge 
 of the rostellum. Even before the opening 
 of the flower I have found the external 
 ric. 13.—spaTHoctorg Pollen masses on each side bathed with 
 PLICATASAME ASFIG.12, the stigmatic fluid, and already exserting 
 aan en ec ie their tubes. These descend by the grooves 
 Fig. 12. I have mentioned on both sides to the 
 stylary canal. Concomitant with the flood- 
 
 ing of the anther there has been taking place a slow approxi- 
 mation of the under side of the rostellum to the lower lip of 
 the stigma, till its lobes finally embrace the rostellum, bind- 
 ing down the whole anther (Figs. 10, 12), so that when the 
 
 
 
 
 
 FIG. 14.—SPATHOGLOTTIS PLICATA(FRONT FIG. 15.—sSPATHOGLOTTIS PLICATA; THE 
 
 VIEW) DIAGRAMMATIC, SHOWING APEX OF THE COLUMN, WITH THE 
 ROUTE TO THE STYLARY CANAL POLLINIA REMOVED; SHOWING THE 
 TAKEN BY POLLEN TUBES, B?; A, B, MARGINAL CANALS BETWEEN THE 
 C, F, AS IN FiG. 10. COLUMN-WALL AND THE FLOOR, I, OF 
 
 THE ANTHER; H, THE ROSTELLUM. 
 
 act of fertilisation has been completed the stigma is almost 
 obliterated, leaving no room for any foreign pollen to be 
 applied to its surface. The direction taken by the pollen 
 tubes is shown somewhat diagrammatically in Fig. 14. The 
 pollen grains of the caudicles of the pollinia remain as a rule 
 unaffected, but, not being at all viscid, they are not easily 
 
IN JAVA. 
 
 removable. 
 before the opening of the Spathoglottis at all. 
 
 91 
 
 The operations here described are often completed 
 
 Of the orchids I gathered here none interested me more 
 
 
 
 FIG. 16,—ARUNDINA SPECIOSA; A, B, E, 
 “AS FIG. 17; C, UPPER MARGIN, AND 
 D, LOWER AND SIDE FLAPS OF 
 STIGMA, 
 
 than the Arundina speciosa, Bl. 
 
 
 
 FIG. 17.—ARUNDINA SPECIOSA (BUD); 
 A, TOP OF CREST OF ANTHER-CAP ; 
 B, POLLINIA; D, LOWER MARGIN OF 
 STIGMA; E, STIGMA; F, FRONT OF 
 COLUMN. 
 
 This cane-like species grows 
 
 to a height of between five and six feet, producing without 
 intermission for many months a succession of large and 
 
 beautiful purple flowers. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 a” 
 
 
 
 z Oiala) 
 
 pine Coo W) 
 
 AE Yr be 
 
 i LL, 
 ih h i) y Ui? ds yi} 
 
 lf ‘ 
 i} 
 
 
 
 
 
 FIG. 18.—ARUNDINA SPECIOSA SHOWING 
 ANTHER QUITE ROTATED INTO 
 STIGMA ; D, LOWER FLAPS OF STIGMA 
 CLOSING DOWN ANTHER-CAP; A, F, 
 AS IN Fic. 17. 
 
 The labellum is tubular, and has a 
 
 
 
 FIG. 19.—ARUNDINA SPECIOSA SHOWING 
 POLLINIA ROTATED INTO STIGMA 
 AND THE FRONT OF COLUMN, F, 
 BURST WITH SWOLLEN POLLEN 
 TUBES. ANTHER-CAP REMOVED. 
 
 broad fringed dark purple margin, from which radiate deeper 
 lines converging towards the bright yellow throat, where they 
 merge in two ridges leading to the shallow nectar-depression 
 
 at the base of the column. 
 
 Tn the very young bud (Fig. 16) the column is crowned with 
 
92 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 its anther erect on the posterior part of the column. Underneath 
 is the stigma, of a roughly square shape, its upper rim standing 
 erect in front of the pollinia, rising to about one third of their 
 height as atriangular eminence, which corresponds with the front 
 margin of the rostellar platform. It is not in every flower that 
 the shape of the stigma can be seen well, for the stage presently 
 to be described, begins very soon, often before the flower is 
 expanded ; and only by the examination of a very large series 
 have I been able to follow the modifications that have 
 occurred. 
 
 Concurrent with or even before the commencement of 
 the rotation of the anther into its normal position some in- 
 
 
 
 FIG. 20.—ARUNDINA SPECIOSA, SHOWING FIG, 21.—ARUNDINA SPECIOSA, BUD SHOW- 
 
 A SECTION OF COLUMN OPENED FROM ING THE UPPER RIM OF STIGMA 
 BEHIND; C, TOP OF UPPER MAR- ALREADY INVERTED DOWN THE 
 GIN OF STIGMA (CORRESPONDING TO STYLARY CANAL; LETTERS AS IN 
 ROSTELLUM); 0”, PORTION OF STIGMA; FIG. 17. 
 
 G, STYLARY CANAL. 
 
 fluence—which I do not know— causes the upper margin of the 
 stigma to become inverted close down the posterior wall of the 
 stylary canal, as seen in Fig. 17, and in longitudinal section 
 opened from behind in Fig. 20, where the rostellum is seen hang- 
 ing down the canal asa narrow band. Fig. 21 represents a very 
 young bud, in which, though the pollinia had scarcely begun 
 to rotate, the stigma had become already much modified, and is 
 in waiting for the rotation of the pollinia. Along with this in- 
 vagination of the upper margin of the stigma (the rostellum) its 
 lower lip is in consequence dragged (?) upwards. Dissections 
 of the column showed that the rostellum goes on elongating 
 down the stylary canal, as in Fig. 20, while the pollinia, slowly 
 continuing to rotate downwards, finally precipitate them- 
 selves into the stigma, whose flap-like margins embrace the 
 
IN JAVA. 93 
 
 anther-cap, as seen in Fig. 18 and in 19, where the anther-cap 
 is removed. 
 
 On the conclusion of these singular movements no remains 
 of the stigma can be seen. As a rule these operations are con- 
 cluded before the full expanding of the flower, whose petals, 
 after remaining expanded for only a 
 few hours, fade, and, closing round the 
 column, exclude any intruder from dis- 
 turbing the interesting and mysterious 
 rites of nature being enacted within. 
 I have found that in some cases the 
 rostellum (the upper margin of the 
 stigma) is not invaginated down the 
 stylary canal, but retains the more 
 natural orchideal form of a broad flat rie. 22.W—arunprya spxctosa, 
 floor to the anther, projecting far over QO Worm eee 
 the stigma as seen in Fig. 22. When mic. 16; 1, RIDGE oN FLOR 
 . the flower of Arundinu speciosa hasthis $y"\vauungar 
 rare form it invariably, as far as my 
 observations enable me to speak, falls off unfertilized. The 
 pollinia also lie far back in the anther, and are entirely con- 
 cealed by the anther-case, which fits close downall round. An 
 insect, to secure the pollinia, would require to alight on the 
 
 
 
 
 
 FIGS. 23 AND 24.—ERIA SP., NEAR TO E. JAVENSIS; A, ANTRER-CAP, IN FIG. 23, 
 SHRIVELLED UP; B, POLLINIA; B*, POLLINIA SWOLLEN AFTER FALLING INTO 
 STIGMA ; D, ROSTELLUM; E, STIGMA. 
 
 margin of the rostellar platform and lift up the anther case, a 
 difficult operation, which supposing it to have successfully 
 accomplished, it might wander far to find a stigma to apply 
 the pollen so obtained to, for its own form of organs does not 
 
94 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 probably occur on a second floret of its own species, within a 
 wide area. Flowers with this conformation, however, remain 
 expanded and fresh for several days, in marked contrast to 
 those of the first form, which close up in a very few hours. 
 
 In the median line of the upper surface of the rostellum 
 there is a well-marked ridge (Fig. 22) which runs out to the tip 
 to form the central promontory of the rostellum. In describing 
 Phajus Blumet I remarked that there existed on the back of the 
 stigma a prominent ridge running down nearly to the ovary, 
 Now if we were to suppose the ridged rostellum of Arundina 
 to become adherent to the back of the stigma instead of 
 hanging down free, we should have such a ridge as is seen in 
 
 
 
 Fig. 25. 
 
 FIG. 25.—CHRYSOGLOSSUM SP. THE FIG. ON THE LEFT REPRESENTS TWO FLORETS 
 ON FLOWER STEM; THAT ON THE RIGHT ONE CLEISTOGAMOUSLY FERTILISED. 
 
 Phajus ; so that it is probable that the ridge in the latter 
 plant may be the remnant of its rostellum adherent to the 
 back of the stigma. 
 
 Abundant on trees at 2000 feet above the sea, I gathered the 
 dull-flowered Eria albido-tomentosa, remarkable for having its 
 perianth densely covered with a felty mass of white wool. Its 
 anther is separated by a rim-like rostellum from the broad and 
 rather shallow stigma. Out of sixty flowers which I examined at 
 various times, I did not find one otherwise than self-fertilised 
 while still in the bud, by the viscid matter of the stigma swelling 
 
IN JAVA. 95 
 
 up and inundating, by the channels at the side of the rostellum, 
 at least the most external pollen masses on each side. These 
 pollinia emit their tubes over the rim of the rostellum, almost 
 obliterating it, into the stylary canal. On the opening of the 
 flower and the retraction of the anther-case, the most internal 
 pollinia may sometimes be found in the condition of loose 
 grains unaffected by the inundation of viscid matter. In its 
 fertilisation this species of Hria seems to resemble Dendrobium 
 chrysanthum. 
 
 The mode of fertilisation described as occurring in Ophrys 
 apifera by Mr. Darwin, I found to be followed very closely by 
 a species of Hria near to HE. javensis, in which the anther-cap 
 shrivels up backwards after rupturing, so as to disclose the 
 
 
 
 FIG. 26, FIG. 26a, 
 
 FIG. 26.—CHRYSOGLOSSUM SP.; A, ANTHER-CAP; B, POLLINIA IN SITU; ¢, 
 STIGMA; D, UPPER MARGIN OF STIGMA; E, LOWER MARGIN OF 
 STIGMA. FIG. 26A,—SECTION OF SAME. THE VISCID MATTER FLOWS 
 OVER THE MARGIN, D, INTO THE ANTHER, 
 
 pollinia, which at once, even when quite shaded from wind and 
 all other disturbances, begin a slow tortuous movement, during 
 which they fall into their own stigmas, as seen in Fig. 23, p. 93. 
 
 In a species of terrestrial orchid unknown to me, but nearly 
 related, if not belonging to the genus Chrysoglossum, I 
 found these contrivances for effecting self-fertilisation carried 
 to their extreme limit, by its fertilising itself without ever 
 opening its florets at all (Figs. 25, 26). I observed them in 
 the forest, as well as grew a few of them in Mr. Lash’s garden, 
 and every specimen was fertilised in the same way. In opening 
 
96 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 its locked-up petals, I found the labellum beautifully marked 
 with lines of purple, carmine and orange, and the column also ; 
 but no insect eye could ever be fascinated or allured by its 
 painted whorls. 
 
 In the rather inconspicuous Goodyera procera self-fertilisa- 
 tion takes place by the swelling up of the viscid matter of the 
 stigma beyond its true boundary, till it touches, as seen in 
 Fig. 28, the viscid disk of the pollinia, and spreads into the 
 pollinia chamber. I have no doubt this takes place in many 
 other species of Goodyera, and very probably also in our. own 
 Highland species, Goodyera repens. Other species which I have 
 
 
 
 FIG. 27. FIG. 28. 
 
 GOODYERA PROCERA; A, SWOLLEN UP CAUDICLES OF POLLINIA (SOMEWHAT EXAG- 
 GERATED) ; B, SPLIT ROSTELLUM, SHOWING IN FIG. 28 THE DISK OF POLLINIA ; 
 C, STIGMA ; D, UPPER MARGIN OF STIGMA BEFORE STIGMATIC FLUID HAS BEGUN 
 TO SWELL; E, THE STIGMATIC FLUID SWOLLEN UP. 
 
 not been able to designate by name presented similar or allied 
 modifications for securing self-fertilisation. 
 
 To me was especially interesting the purple Arundina, 
 which one might imagine to have become tired of vainly 
 displaying its beauty to wayward and inappreciate butterflies 
 and bees, and had assumed a form that should—let all the 
 glittering humming wings pass heedless as they would—per- 
 petuate a fertile race. 
 
 These instances go to show that the rule that “the flowers 
 of orchids are fertilised by the pollen of other flowers” is not 
 so universal as has been supposed. It is to be feared that too 
 often the interesting cases of flowers observed to be cross- 
 fertilised by insects have been recorded, while those of flowers 
 otherwise fertilised have not been mentioned, so that the law 
 
IN JAVA. 97 
 
 of cross-fertilisation in orchids has been in danger of being 
 unduly magnified, from the absence of evidence on the other 
 side. 
 
 The estate of Kosala derives its name from the rounded hill 
 above the house. The word is of Sanscrit origin, but its 
 meaning is unknown. It is a country along the bank of the 
 Sarayu, forming a part of the modern province of Oude. It 
 was the pristine kingdom of a solar race, and in the time of 
 Buddha its principal city was Sewet (Sravasti). There is 
 another Kosala in the Deccan (Dakshina Kosala) ; so Kosala 
 or Kusala is the name of a land or a race. Ala occurs as a 
 termination in many names of countries, but the root Késh or 
 Kush has such an immense variety of significations that it is 
 impossible to find a good translation for it. 
 
 The city of Sewet in Kosala was visited in a.p. 401 by 
 the Chinese Buddhist pilgrim Fah-hian, and where he saw 
 the famous sandal-wood figure made by order of the king of 
 Kosala. He found at some distance from the city a copse 
 called Aptanétravana (“recovered sight’), where originally 
 five hundred blind men lived who were restored to sight by 
 Buddha. The blind men threw their staves on the ground, 
 which forthwith grew up into trees and formed a sacred 
 grove or copse. The name has most probably come down 
 from Hindoo times to the present associated with some 
 sacred legend whose influence hovers still over the spot; 
 for when the coffee gardens were being made the natives 
 refused to fell the forest that grew on the Kosala hill, 
 and only under compulsion could they then be persuaded to 
 enter it. — 
 
 Under its shade there stand several mounds, blocks, and slabs 
 which Mr. Lash conducted me one day to see. On entering 
 the forest we were somewhat surprised to find a portion of the 
 ground newly cleared of underwood from about several of the 
 stones, and against them standing the remnants of small 
 torches of sweet gums which had been offered before them. I 
 felt certain that this was the work of none of the surrounding 
 people who were afraid to enter the copse. 
 
 I decided therefore to make a full survey of the buried 
 ruins, and after some difficulty I succeeded in securing, for a 
 consideration, the services of a youth who was willing to 
 
 H 
 
98 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 brave with me the wrath of the guardian spirits of the grove, 
 and assist me in the sacrilegious work of hewing which my 
 operations would entail. | 
 
 In the immediate neighbourhood, was discovered a bronze 
 bell of undoubted Hindoo manufacture, its handle ornamented 
 with the sacred bull, but without the clapper which had 
 dropped from its ring; and within the boundaries of the 
 erove stands a rude figure of the Buddha, with elevated finger, 
 as if in the act of instructing. 
 
 The ruins consist of terraces built up round the hill, which 
 probably once encircled it entirely, but part of which has 
 evidently extended where now the coffee plantation exists, 
 and has been obliterated perhaps in the cultivation of forest 
 patches by the natives in former periods. Only the portion 
 surrounding for some distance that used by the worshippers has 
 
 
 
 EGG-SHAPED STONE FROM THE KARANG’S GROVE. 
 
 been left unmolested. There the terraces are completely laid 
 out in quadrilateral enclosures, their boundaries marked out by 
 blocks of stone laid or fixed in the ground, which with singular 
 exactitude lie within a degree of the true magnetic cardinal 
 points. Here and there on the terraces are more prominent 
 monuments—erect pillars surmounting oval piles of stones ; 
 flat slabs on the ground supporting egg-shaped blocks, which 
 are distributed in many spots in such numbers and perfection 
 of shape that to have made them or searched the brooks for 
 them must have entailed a vast expenditure of time and 
 trouble. Here and there also I found flat slabs raised on end 
 and remains of circular paved areas, set round with upright 
 blocks of stone. Specially noteworthy was a pillar, erect 
 within a square marked out with stones on the ground, round 
 
IN JAVA. 99 
 
 
 
 which the worshippers had plaited a fringe of Areng palm 
 leaves. This same stone-is thus decorated at every visit 
 made by the worshippers to the sacred grove. 
 
 At the base of two of the stones, where perhaps they have 
 lain for unknown time, I found an earthenware jar, both of 
 them somewhat broken, but of elegant shape and artistic 
 design, not of ordinary native pattern or workmanship; but, 
 besides these jars, the egg-shaped stones and the image, all 
 the monuments were of rough stone and without inscription or 
 sign of handicraft. At the base of all the principal mounds 
 and pillars I found remains of their offerings. 
 
 I learnt that the worshippers belonged to the tribe called 
 the Karangs or Kalangs, who lived in a village lying several 
 days’ journey to the southward. Four times a year a proces- 
 
 
 
 EARTHENWARE POT FROM THE KARANG’S GROVE. 
 
 sion of old men and youths repairs, by paths known only 
 to themselves, through the dense intervening forest in a direct 
 course by valley and mountain, to this sacred grove; the old 
 men to worship and make offering, the youths to see and 
 learn the mysterious litany of their fathers. The old men lead 
 the way; the rest follow in single file, no one breaking the 
 silence of their journey. Should any one be encountered by 
 them on the way their pilgrimage is considered for that time 
 unpropitious, and they return to their village to wait for a 
 more favourable occasion. On their arrival with early 
 morning at the grove they camp in a small hut, cleanse the 
 ground about the sacred mounds, and perform during the 
 night or on the following day the rites known to them- 
 selves alone; in the evening they take their departure to an 
 H 2 
 
100 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS. 
 
 
 
 adjoining valley, where below a great overhanging rock they 
 wait till break of next day, when they return home in a 
 similar secret and silent manner to their coming. They all 
 wear garments of cloth striped with black and white. | 
 
 Rafiles* has given an interesting and full account of these 
 people in his ‘ History of Java’ from which I make the follow- 
 ing extract: “They were at one time numerous in various parts 
 of Java, leading a wandering life, practising religious rites 
 different from those of the great body of the people, and avoid- 
 ing intercourse with them, but most of them are now reduced 
 to subjection, and are become stationary in their residence, 
 having embraced the Mahomedan religion. In a few villages 
 their peculiar customs are still preserved, Although by tra- 
 
 
 
 EARTHENWARE POT FROM THE KARANGS GROVE. 
 
 dition their descent is from a princess of Mendang, Kamilan, 
 and a chief transformed into a dog, they have claims to be 
 considered the actual descendants of the aborigines of the 
 island. ‘They are represented as having a great veneration 
 for a red dog, one of which is generally kept by each family, 
 which they will not permit to be struck or ill-used.t- When a 
 young man asks a girl in marriage he must prove descent 
 
 * For additional information the reader is referred to Tijdschrift v. Ned. 
 Ind. i. jaarg. ii. deel, p. 295 et seq.; iv. j. ii. 217; vii. j. iv. 885 e¢ seq.; 
 Bijdragen v. Ind. T, L. en V.-Kunde, iii. Volgreeks, iv. deel. ; Indisches Maga- 
 zine, 1845. 
 
 + “ According to the Zend Avesta, certain dogs have the power of protecting 
 the departed spirits from the demons lying in wait for it on the perilous 
 passage of the narrow bridge over the abyss of hell; and a dog is always led 
 
 in funeral processions, and made to look at the corpse.”—Macmil. Mag., 
 ‘Village Life in the Apennines,” June 1879, 
 
IN JAVA. 101 
 
 
 
 from their peculiar stock. When the Kalangs moved from 
 one place to another, they were conveyed in carts, with two 
 solid wheels with a revolving axle, drawn by two pairs of 
 buffaloes, according to the circumstances of the party. In 
 these were placed the materials of huts, implements of 
 husbandry, &c. In this manner, until forty or fifty years ago, 
 they were continually moving from one part of the island to 
 another. They have still their separate chiefs, and preserve 
 many of their customs. They are treated with contempt by 
 their Sundanese neighbours, so that ‘ Kalang’ is considered an 
 epithet of contempt and disgrace.” 
 
 Living despised and secluded in villages apart by them- 
 selves, they follow the rites and customs that have descended 
 to them from their forefathers with the superstitious awe 
 that comes of ignorance. The pillars in the centre of rudely 
 circular heaps, as perhaps also the ovoid blocks resting on 
 tablets and other shaped slabs, point no doubt to the celebra- 
 tion here of phallic rites and to the worship of the Linga and 
 Yoni, the emblems of Siva and Vishnu. It is interesting to 
 find the goblets or vases at the base of the upright pillars; 
 they point probably to the “mystic vessels or goblets in 
 the hands of Siva in the image of this god in Indian temples 
 in central Java.” Not less significant is the upright stone 
 decked with palm-leaf fringe, a symbol round which these 
 rude and ignorant villagers, following their blind traditions, 
 weave to this day hangings, “just as the women did for 
 the Ashera in the Jewish temple, and the Athenian maidens 
 (following their old traditions] embroidered the sacred peplos 
 for the ships presented to Athene at the Dionysiac festival ” 
 (Cox). 
 
 In standing under the forest amid these ancient remains, I felt 
 as if I were having an unbroken view down the ages to distant 
 . antiquity ; these relies still warm, as they were, with the inter- 
 mittenty'fires which have been kept alive from the dim 
 past till now, and echoing with the footsteps of the rude 
 worshippers who, unaffected by the incessant waves of change 
 that have broken about them, are themselves as. much ancient 
 monuments as the very blocks of weather-beaten, lichen- 
 matted trachyte, whose purpose is lost to their traditions, before 
 which they torpidly mutter a litany they do not comprehend , 
 
102 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 and listlessly perfume the air, they know not why, with the 
 odours of their incense. 
 
 Not far distant from the Karang dwellings lies the sacred 
 village of Tjibéo, inhabited by the Badui, containing never 
 more nor fewer than forty souls. If their number be increased 
 by birth the overplus must go out and reside in one or other 
 of three neighbouring villages ; if their number decrease the 
 deficit must be made up from among the Outsiders, as they call 
 these extraneous villagers. No foot but one of their own—not 
 even of the highest European official—may cross the sacred 
 boundary, which at some distance hedges the sanctity of their 
 abodes. Like the Rodiyas of Ceylon, they eat carrion and the 
 flesh of animals offensive to their neighbours ; flesh of buffalo 
 they may eat, but they may not kill the animal themselves, 
 and of fowl also if the life have not been taken by the letting 
 of its blood, but by a stroke on the head. They wear only a 
 short loin-cloth, whose colour must never be other than white 
 striped with black.* In speaking to any one not of their 
 own stock, of however high a rank he be, they use the 
 pronouns by which a superior distinctly indicates that he is 
 addressing his inferior. At various periods of the year they 
 also pay mysterious and religious rites to rude venerated 
 blocks of stone, arranged in terraces near their village. The 
 Kalangs are probably an- offshoot of the same stock as the 
 Badui, though they are not reckoned among those outsiders 
 who may be received to make up a deficiency in the sacred 
 Forty of Tjibéo, nor do they worship at their shrines. On the 
 high Tengger Mountains, in the east of Java, a colony with 
 rites and customs similar to those of the Badui exists in all 
 the isolation and opprobrium that a schismatic religion can call 
 out. 
 
 With the exception of the Karangs and the Badui, the 
 entire population of Bantam profess the Mahomedan religion, 
 which however seems to be merely a lusty and fanatical graft 
 on the pagan superstitions of the ancient times. 
 
 * “A magnificent robe having been given to Gotama, his attendant 
 Ananda, in order to destroy its intrinsic value, cut it into thirty pieces and 
 sewed them together in four divisions, so that the robe resembled the patches 
 of a rice-field, divided by embankments, and in conformity with this precedent 
 the robe of every priest was similarly dissected and reunited.”—Henry’s 
 
 ‘astern Monachism,’ chap. xii. p. 117. Can the striped garments of the 
 Kalangs and Badui have any reference to the above tradition ? 
 
IN JAVA. 103 
 
 On Mount Dangka and on the summits of many of the 
 neighbouring hills I stumbled on groves containing either 
 rocks naturally zn stu, or stones that had been placed there, 
 which my porters refused to enter for fear of being affected by 
 some sickness or misfortune. “'They are Patapahaan”’ (places 
 of penance and worship), they would say, and are the sacred 
 spots where they believe their ancestors who, refusing to 
 embrace Mahomedanism, fled to the forests, vanished in invi- 
 sible forms. Whenever calamity overtakes them—when their 
 crops have failed or they are childless—they repair (in 
 greatest numbers during the month of the chief Mahomedan 
 fast—Ramadan) to these Tapa, where they will spend days 
 of fasting and awesome terror, in the hope that the spirits of 
 their transfigured forefathers will grant them the desire of 
 their hearts. In dire sickness, when the slender list of their 
 pharmacopceia has been exhausted, they will as a last resource 
 send to gather lichens from the sacred stones of the despised 
 Kalangs or the Badui, in the belief that a decoction therefrom 
 will avail to ward off or heal their sickness. 
 
 It is quite a common thing to encounter by the wayside 
 near a village, or in a rice-field, or below the shade of a great 
 dark tree, a little platform with an offering of rice and prepared 
 fruits to keep disease and blight at a distance, and propitiate 
 the spirits ever lying in wait in gloomy, sunless (and naturally 
 depressing) spots to harm the passer by. This fear of lurking 
 evil ever oppresses their lives. No one can be found brave 
 enough to touch a man struck to the ground, for instance, 
 by lightning; they will cover him up where he fell, with 
 leaves or generally with stable dung, and commit his re- 
 covery to nature. If he recover, well and good; but to carry 
 him from the spot, to lift him or meddle with him while un- 
 conscious, would be to cry down the Avenger’s displeasure on 
 their own head. 
 
 In the month of January 1880, Dr. Scheffer, the then Di- 
 rector of the Buitenzorg Gardens, wrote to me that, as much 
 virgin forest was being felled among the mountains not far 
 from the Government Cinchona Plantations in the adjoining 
 province of the Preanger, a good opportunity offered itself of 
 increasing my herbarium. ‘This was not a chance to let slip, 
 so, bidding a reluctant farewell to Kosala, I set off for Buitenzorg 
 
104 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS: 
 
 
 
 by the direct foot-road through the forest. The only sound - 
 which disturbed the woods was the “ Kang-kang-kong ” of the 
 “bird of the rainy season,” as the native has named a species 
 which disappears or is silent during the dry monsoon—a bird 
 I could never catch a sight of, however, notwithstanding my 
 most wary stalking. 
 
IN JAVA. 105 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 SOJOURN AT PENGELENGAN, IN THE PREANGER REGENCIES. 
 
 Leave Buitenzorg for the Preanger Regencies—Journey to Bandong in a 
 Post-cart—Bandong—Thence to Pengelengan—Visit to the famous 
 Cinchona Gardens of the Government—Plant-life in the surrounding 
 mountains—The Upas tree—Crater flora—Land-slips and the power 
 of rain—Interesting birds—The Badger-headed Mydaus—The Banteng, 
 or wild cattle—Wild dogs—Leave Pengelenzan for Batavia. 
 
 
 
 AFTER a few days of preparation for my new tour spent in 
 Buitenzorg, I sent off my baggage to the Preanger in the care 
 of astring of coolies, and secured for myself a seat at the mode- 
 rate rate of twenty cents per mile in the mail-cart which every 
 evening leaves Buitenzorg for Bandong. The mail-cart was 
 not the most luxurious, but it was the cheapest and certainly the 
 most expeditious way of getting over the ground. This cart was 
 arough edition of our own mail-gig—simply a box on wheels— 
 whose cushionless and slippery top formed a most uncomfort- 
 able seat, yet I would not have missed the ride for a good deal. 
 We started with a couple of stout ponies yoked tandem-wise, 
 and in place of side lamps our way was lighted by an immense 
 torch made of splints of bamboo some seven feet long tied . 
 together, which a youth, who straddle-wise clung on behind, 
 held to the wind to keep it ablaze. 
 
 Our road lay over the Megamendoeng Pass, 4500 feet above 
 the sea.- At first the gradient was not very steep, and we 
 proceeded at a fine pace. ‘Towards every post-station, five 
 miles apart all along the road, our progress was heralded by 
 loud shouts, and by the louder shot-like whip-crackings that 
 these drivers are famed for. At each station a halt of three or 
 four minutes sufficed to put in the fresh horses standing ready 
 for us, out blazed a fresh flaming torch, and our plunging and 
 kicking steeds were off again, at a gallop which by voice and 
 whip was not allowed to flag until we pulled up under the 
 
106 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 next station. By and by the ascent became steeper, and our 
 team had to be augmented by the addition of a buffalo in 
 front of our horses; further up a second was added, till at last 
 the equine was altogether discarded for the bovine element. 
 
 Under the soothing evenness of their progress I might have 
 dropped into a pleasant doze; but the night was so Louuuut 
 that I preferred to enjoy the picturesque effect produced by 
 the light of the torches on our team and their drivers—who 
 were dressed in short red trousers, deep yellow jackets, and 
 their tartan sarongs thrown sash-wise across their shoulders, 
 and wore immense hats more than two feet in diameter; and ~ 
 to lose none of the charm of the bright starlit night and the 
 fire-flies that illuminated with their fitful light the borders 
 of the forest through which we were ascending whose low moan 
 was the only sound that broke the stillness of the night, for 
 the driver had coiled himself up as best he could, and was fast 
 asleep, and the buffalo-boys walked lke mutes at a funeral. 
 
 At about midnight we reached the summit of the pass, where 
 it was so cold that I was glad to crouch by the fire of a small hut 
 there, while the buffaloes were being changed. The place of 
 the oxen was now taken by a single horse, which, urged at a 
 pace more swift than safe, carried us down the mountain side 
 into a warmer region in a very short time. The up-hill seat 
 might have been more comfortable; but the down-hill ride 
 was interspersed with practical lessons in dynamics which 
 rather tended to disagree with the general quiet order of one’s 
 internal arrangements, yet the sensation of being whirled 
 along at such a rapid speed was full of exhilaration and great 
 pleasure. At 3 A.M. we pulled up at our half-way house— 
 the post-office at 'Tjandjoor—where I was checked off with the 
 rest of the baggage which had been consigned to the driver at 
 Buitenzorg, re-booked for the remainder of the journey, and 
 handed over to the charge of a new Jehu to be delivered at 
 his destination. 
 
 Beyond Tjandjoor the road passed through a more level 
 country, leading to the deep valley of the Tjitaroom. As 
 there was no bridge over the ravine we were, on arriving at 
 the near bank, assisted to alight by what seemed a regiment 
 of walking torches, and with cart and horses transported on a 
 bamboo raft to the further side, where two buffalo friends were 
 
‘WONVLICL UAAIN AHL AO YNISSOUO-LHYIN AZO 
 
 ‘901 26nd a0nf OL 
 
 
 

 
IN JAVA. 107 
 
 in waiting to haul us up the long steep bank out of the gorge, 
 beyond which the road was easy, and the horses, urged to their 
 utmost speed, dashed along through village after village, 
 rousing the dogs and awakening the sleepers. The night 
 growing into day brought us one of the pleasantest portions of 
 our drive. ‘he grey tints of the short dawn passing gradually 
 through many lovely hues into a delicate blue, and the fresh 
 wooded landscape lit up by the morning sun more charmingly 
 than at any other hour of the day, are the beauties, never 
 wearying to the eye, that accompany the opening of a tropical 
 day. At 8 A.M. we drew rein at Bandong post-office, having 
 accomplished somewhat over eighty miles in thirteen hours. 
 
 Bandong is the chief town of the Preanger Regencies, one 
 of the largest and richest residencies in Java. In this province 
 the Government has some of its most extensive coffee gardens, 
 tobacco and cinchona plantations. The town is large and 
 strageline, containing but few European houses; its most 
 interesting building is the residence of the Regent or native 
 governor of the district. In front of his door is a great square, 
 in the centre of which a giant fig-tree grows, beneath whose 
 shade on high days the natives congregate to sport and to 
 pay respect to the chief. Though some 2000 feet above the 
 sea it is hot and close at all seasons, and is not a very pleasant 
 place to live in. ‘The larger part of the trading population is 
 Chinese and Arab, the natives taking little or no part in it ; 
 but the district is noted for its beautiful ornamental baskets 
 of bamboo wicker-work. 
 
 Bandong stands in the centre of an immense level plain 
 hemmed in on all sides by very high mountains—most of 
 them voleanoes—which discharge their streams into it, whose 
 waters can find only one outlet, the Tjitaroom, which issues 
 from the western angle and flows northward into the Java Sea. 
 In prehistoric times this plain must have been one large lake, 
 till, by the convulsions and eruptions of the volcanic peaks 
 that banked it in, a gap was formed, which drained off the 
 water, and turned its bottom into a fruitful field. On the 
 whole one would have preferred the lake, and Java could then 
 have boasted of one respectable fresh-water sea, a feature of 
 beauty conspicuously and unexpectedly absent from so moun- 
 tainous and yolcanic a country. 
 
108 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 After resting a day in Bandong I proceeded to my destina- 
 tion, some thirty miles farther to the south. Jor fifteen miles 
 of the way it was possible to drive in a spring cart, which I 
 hired in the town; but the rest of the road, which rises to 4600 
 feet, is very steep, and had to be accomplished on horseback. 
 
 The road in the lower districts, shaded at short intervals by 
 leafy Hibiscus trees, passed between hedges of bright yellow- 
 purple- and red-flowering Lantana; higher up broad patches 
 of pink balsam (Impatiens), shady Albizzias, purple Bin- 
 tino (Lagerstremia), tall tree-ferns and a shrubby species 
 of Cassia bearing large trosses of bright golden flowers, were — 
 met with. A little higher a species of Datura, with broad 
 leaves and large white trumpet-shaped flowers, suddenly 
 became abundant. Being utilised by the natives as boundary 
 hedges for their coffee-gardens, it formed by the size and 
 abundance of its flowers a marked feature of the vegetation. 
 
 Five or six hours of slow ascent brought us at last to Pen- 
 gelengan, a small village lying at an elevation of 4500 feet 
 above the sea, on an undulating plateau formed by the inuer 
 slopes of the Malawar, Wayang and Tilu mountains, whose 
 summits range from 6000 to 7500 feet, and at several points 
 command a view of the South Indian Ocean. On the out- 
 skirts of the village was a comfortable and convenient Govern- 
 ment bungalow, in which visitors to this rather out-of-the-way 
 spot could, with the permission of the Resident (always wil- 
 lingly granted), be accommodated for a time. Here I was in 
 the centre of one of the great Government coffee districts, and 
 in the vicinity of its cinchona plantations on the slopes of the 
 surrounding mountains. 
 
 One of my first visits was paid to the ‘ Bark’ gardens in order 
 to see in a living state these famous trees, and especially that 
 species with cream-coloured flowers, the Cinchona Ledgeriana, 
 which had attained so great a celebrity, and could in 1880 
 be seen, excepting in our Himalayan gardens, almost nowhere 
 else but in the Dutch plantations. It is now little more 
 than thirty years since the Netherlands Indian Government 
 began to cultivate cinchona. Their first seed was brought 
 by Haskarl, of the Botanical Gardens in Buitenzorg, who 
 had been deputed by the then Colonial Minister to visit 
 Peru to see the tree in its native forests and bring home 
 
IN JAVA. 109 
 
 with him a collection of what seeds he could find. He was 
 unfortunately very unsuccessful, and obtained seeds of only 
 very inferior sorts. In 1866 the Government purchased, for 
 less than £50, a small quantity of seed of a supposed variety 
 of C. calisaya sent from America by Mr. Charles Ledger. So 
 well had this species been propagated that there were nearly 
 one million trees, worth more than a million and a half of 
 money, in the gardens, raised from the seed then purchased. 
 
 It is well known that cinchona is so liable to hybridisation 
 that it is very difficult to obtain pure seedlings from the seed 
 even of pure trees, the offspring containing very often less 
 alkaloids than their parents. An experiment, which has proved 
 a great success, was made by Dr. Moens of grafting on the easily 
 reared and quickly growing C. succirubra stems, shoots from 
 the highest alkaloid-yielding trees. They have been found to 
 grow very rapidly and to reproduce pretty regularly the same 
 proportion of alkaloids as the trees from which the grafts were 
 eut. Of Mr. Ledger’s variety, now raised to the rank of a new 
 species by Dr. Moens, the seed-raised trees may be of many 
 degrees of value, but all contain a far higher percentage of 
 quinine than any other species. I gathered as a memento of 
 my visit some flowers from trees whose bark yielded, with a 
 trace only of any other alkaloid, the extraordinary amount of 
 ten and even thirteen per cent. of pure quinine. Continued 
 cultivation has therefore, it would seem, vastly developed 
 the amount of quinine that these Ledgerianas contain, 
 compared with what they yield in their native, forests of 
 Bolivia. 
 
 The story of how the seed of this priceless tree (which can 
 now be propagated ad libitum) reached the Old World is so in- 
 teresting that I have extracted a few paragraphs froma letter of 
 its introducer, Mr. Charles Ledger, in the eld of Feb. 5, 1881, 
 addressed to his brother, evoked by an account of the Dutch 
 Gardens I had contributed to the same journal in 1880: 
 
 “ While engaged in my alpaca enterprise in 1856, a Bolivian 
 Indian, Manuel Tucra Mamani, formerly and afterwards a 
 cinchona bark-cutter, was accompanying me with two of his 
 sons. He accompanied me in almost all my frequent journeys 
 into the interior, and was very useful in examining the large 
 quantities of cinchona bark and alpaca wool I was constantly 
 
110 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 purchasing. He and his sons were very much attached to 
 me, and I placed every confidence in them. Sitting round our 
 camp-fire one evening, as was my custom after dinner, convers- 
 ing on all sorts of topics, I mentioned what I had read as to 
 Mr. Clement Kk. Markham’s mission [in search of cinchona- 
 seeds]. Now Manuel had been with me in three of my 
 journeys into the cinchona districts of the Yungas of 
 Bolivia, where I had to go looking after laggard contractors 
 for delivery of bark. It was while conversing on the subject 
 of Mr. Markham’s journey, and wondering which route he 
 would take, &c., that Manuel greatly surprised me by saying: — 
 ‘The gentleman will not leave the Yungas in good health if 
 he really obtains the fogo plants and seeds.’ Manuel was 
 always very taciturn and reserved. I said nothing at the time, 
 there being some thirty more of my Indians sitting round the 
 large fire. The next day he reluctantly told me how every 
 stranger on entering the Yungas was closely watched un- 
 observed by himself; how several seed-collectors had their 
 seed changed; how their germinating power was destroyed 
 by their own guides, servants, &c. He also showed me how 
 all the Indians most implicitly believe, if by plants or seed 
 from the Yungas, the cinchonas are successfully propagated in 
 other countries, all their own trees will perish. Such, I assure 
 you, is their superstition. Although there are no laws prohibit- 
 ing the cinchona seed or plants being taken out of the country, 
 I have seen private instructions from the Prefect in La Paz, 
 ordering strictest vigilance to prevent any person taking seed 
 or plants out of the country. More than half-a-dozen times I 
 have had my luggage, bedding, &c., searched when coming out 
 of the valley of the Yungas. |Mr. Ledger unsuccessfully 
 attempted to communicate with Mr. Markham, who was not 
 permitted to enter Bolivia. ] * 
 
 “You are aware how I am looked upon as a doctor by the 
 Indians. Well, one day I said: ‘Manuel, | may some day 
 require some seed and flowers of the famous white flower, 
 rogo cascarrilla, as a remedy; and I shall rely on your not 
 deceiving me in the way you have told me.’ He merely 
 said, ‘ Patron, if you ever require such seed and flowers, I will 
 not deceive you. And I thought no more about it. 
 
 * Cf. Markham’s ‘ Travels in Peru and India.’ 
 
IN JAVA. 111 
 
 
 
 “ Manuel was never aware of my requiring seed and leaves 
 for propagating purposes; he was always told they were 
 wanted to make a special remedy for a special illness. For 
 many vears, since 1844, I had felt deeply interested in seeing 
 Europe, and my own dear country in particular, free from 
 being dependent on Peru or Bolivia for its supply of life-giving 
 quinine. Remembering and relying on Manuel’s promise to 
 me in 1856, I resolved to do all in my power to obtain the very 
 best cinchona seed produced in Bolivia. 
 
 “His son Santiago went to Australia with me in 1858. In 
 1861, the day before sending back to South America Santiago 
 and other Indians who had accompanied me there as shepherds 
 of the alpacas, I bought 200 Spanish dollars, and said to him : 
 ‘You will give these to your father. ‘Tell him I count on his 
 keeping his promise to get for me forty to fifty pounds of rogo 
 cinchona (white flower) seed. He must get it from trees we 
 had sat under together when trying to reach the Mamore 
 river in 1851; to meet me at Tacna (Peru) by May 1863. If 
 not bringing pure, ripe rogo seed, flowers and leaves, never to 
 look for me again.’ 
 
 “T arrived back in Tacna on the Sth of January, 1865. I 
 at once sent a message to Manuel, informing him of my 
 arrival, At the end of May he arrived with his precious seed. 
 It is only now, some twenty-four years after poor Manuel 
 promised not to deceive me, manifest how faithfully and 
 loyally he kept his promise. I say poor Manuel, because, 
 as you know, he lost his life while trying to get another 
 supply of the same class of seed for me in 1872-3. You are 
 aware too how later on I lost another old Indian friend, poor 
 Poli, when bringing seed and flowers in 1877. 
 
 “TI feel thoroughly convinced in my own mind that such 
 astonishingly rich quinine-yielding trees as those in Java are 
 not known to exist (in any quantity) in Bolivia. These 
 wonderful trees are only to be found in the Caupolican district 
 in eastern Yungas. The white flower is specially belonging 
 to the cinchona ‘ rogo’ of Apolo. 
 
 “You will call to mind, no doubt, the very great difficulties 
 you had to get this wonderful ‘seed’ looked at, even; how a 
 part was purchased by Mr. Money for account of our East 
 Indian Government for £50 under condition of 10,000 
 
112 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 germinating. Though 60,000 plants were successfully raised 
 from it by the late Mr. M‘Ivor, I only received the £50. 
 
 “The seed taken by the Netherlands Government cost it 
 barely £50. | 
 “Such then is the ‘story’ attaching to the now famous 
 Cinchona Ledgeriana, the source of untold wealth to Java, 
 Ceylon, and, I hope, to India and elsewhere. I am proud 
 to see my ‘dream’ of close on forty years ago is realised ; 
 Europe is no longer dependent on Peru or Bolivia for its 
 
 supply of life-giving quinine.” 
 
 In my new locality I experienced, as at Kosala, the same 
 difficulty in obtaining herbarium specimens of the great trees, 
 with a better opportunity of verifying the fact that the bulk 
 of those that had been felled were really barren. The fallen 
 trunks, however, afforded an abundant harvest of ferns; while 
 on the surrounding mountains, several of them quiescent 
 volcanoes, which were higher than any I had yet visited, I 
 was happy in gathering many shrubs and plants which I had 
 not before seen. Close to my door grew one, our common rib- 
 grass (Plantago major), which I would have passed by at home 
 as a rank weed, but I gathered it here with real affection, as 
 much “for auld acqua’ntance sake,” as in sympathy with its 
 distant exile and inexorable durance, with a few compatriots, 
 on these unquiet peaks, which the hot surrounding plains 
 have made an island-in-an-island prison, more hopeless to 
 escape from than the most ocean-compassed speck. At 4500 
 feet above the sea I found a small species of Hypericum on 
 wet ground, like our own Marsh St. John’s-wort (/. elodes) ; 
 here and there, about 5000 feet, appeared purple violets 
 (V. alata), increasing in abundance with the ascent through 
 woods of magnolias and chestnuts, their stems clothed with 
 orchids, Freycinetias, climbing aroids and lycopods, and on 
 whose floor the dreaded Upas dropped its fruits. 
 
 Beneath the shady canopy of this tall fig no native will, if 
 he knows it, dare to rest, nor will he pass between its stem and 
 the wind, so strong is his belief in its evil influence. 
 
 In the centre of a tea estate not far off from my encampment 
 stood, because no one could be found daring enough to cut it 
 down, an immense specimen, which had long been a nuisance to 
 the proprietor on account of the lightning every now and then 
 
iN” 7.4 VA; 1138 
 
 striking off, to the damage of the shrubs below, large branches, 
 which none of his servants could be induced to remove. One 
 day, having been pitchforked together and burned, they were 
 considered disposed of; but next morning the whole of his 
 labourers in the adjacent village awoke, to their intense alarm, 
 afflicted with a painful eruption, wherever their bodies were 
 usually uncovered. It was then remembered that the smoke of 
 the burning branches had been blown by the wind through 
 the village; this undoubtedly accounted for the epidemic; 
 but it did not allay their fears that they were all as good as 
 dead men, for the potency of the sap as a poison is but too 
 well known to them. 
 
 To prevent a general flight of the workmen it became 
 necessary to get rid of the tree altogether, but the difficulty 
 was to find any one willing to lay the axe to its root. At last 
 a couple of Chinamen, after much persuasion and the offer 
 of a high fee, agreed to perform the hazardous task of cutting 
 up and carting it away. To the surprise of everybody they 
 accomplished their task without experiencing the least harm. 
 They pocketed their fee and departed in silence, without, 
 however, saying that they had at intervals during their 
 work, artfully smeared their bodies with cocoa-nut oil. 
 
 The sap of the bark alone is hurtful, for the logs into 
 which the stripped trunk was cut were made into furniture 
 for the owner’s dining-room, without ill effects to the carpen- 
 ters. The bark of another denizen of the same forest—Gluta 
 benghas, one of the Anacardiacew—contains a sap even more 
 noxious, for, falling on the skin, it produces stubborn ulcers 
 which, on the woodcutters—who often get splashed on their 
 arms and body—require months to heal ; but its sap is not 
 used by them for poison, as the antzarin is. It is curious to 
 reflect how acute native ingenuity has been in elaborating 
 a pharmacopeeia abounding in subtle articles to waste or take 
 away life, while it contains hardly one to preserve it. The 
 action of some of these preparations, whose effects I had 
 heard of as well as seen, astonished me vastly, but no bribe 
 that I could offer was tempting enough to induce their old 
 dukuns to disclose their composition. 
 
 At elevations of 5000 feet Podocarpus trees (of the yew 
 family), oaks and laurels formed much of the shade, under 
 
 I 
 
114 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 which flourished elegant Melastomas, with white instead of 
 pink flowers, and raspberries (Rubus) of many kinds, the Rubus 
 lineatus, a form with specially beautiful foliage, being abun- 
 dant between 6000 and 7000 feet. On many of these moun- 
 tains a single step would often lead the foot out of the green 
 forest on to the edge of a great scar-like blotch, exuding — 
 sulphureous vapours through every crack and orifice, dis- 
 figuring their verdant slopes, like a suppurating sore on a 
 fair neck. Yet within the indurated margins of these smoul- 
 dering craters, a flora specially and surprisingly interesting is 
 to be encountered. Amid the very vapours of the fumaroles I 
 gathered bunches of Hricaceous flowers, such as Gaultheria 
 leucocarpa and punetata, and Vacciniwm floribundum, their 
 leaves loaded with sulphur and other deposits, but their 
 flowers stiff with healthy waxiness and fragrant with their 
 own sweet honey odour ; Dzpteris horsfieldi and other ferns 
 and plants, nowhere else to be seen on the mountain, grew in 
 the steaming mud; while Rhododendron retusum stretched its 
 roots out into the fuming streams, which boiled and bubbled 
 over out of the rumbling cauldrons below. 
 
 The Dipteris fern is not found in Java much farther to the 
 east. A line through the longitude of Samarang, which ap- 
 pears to be its eastern boundary, is also the western limit of 
 the teak (Tectona grandis), of the camphor tree (Dryobalanops 
 camphora), and of several species of palms (Borassus flabellifor- 
 mis), and several species of Caryota and other trees, which are 
 not found in West Java, though abundant in Sumatra. Mr. 
 Wallace has pointed out how much he found the Ornithology 
 of the eastern to differ from that of the western portion of 
 the island; and among mammalia, I am told by intelligent 
 natives, neither the rhinoceros nor the Badger-headed Mydaus 
 crosses this boundary eastward. 
 
 Outside the rim of the craters, where the ground had begun 
 as it were to heal, broad patches of a beautiful species of lichen 
 (Cladonia vulcanica) covered the surface, each tip of its pale 
 erey thallus crowned with a fructifying scarlet disk. This 
 is the lowly vegetation with which Nature, when a crater has 
 become extinct, first slowly hides the wounds her strife has 
 made, while scars made by landslips are concealed in a single 
 season with a luxuriant covering of bananas. 
 
IN JAVA. 115 
 
 During the rainy season the thunder of slopes laden with 
 forest trees and shrubs crashing down, often for hundreds of 
 feet into the valleys, was a daily sound, which impressed me 
 with the supreme potency of rain as an agent in planing down 
 the mountains and widening the valleys. I have often been 
 astonished at the rapidity with which even a small stream will 
 carry away the débris of a great landslip. When a heavy 
 gale accompanies continued rains, the fall of giant trees on 
 the narrowed ridges of mountains, is very often the cause of 
 extensive landslips into both the adjacent valleys, which 
 lowers down by very perceptible degrees their barrier ridges. 
 
 Among the more interesting zoological objects of this 
 district added to my collection, were the Siphia banjwmas, 
 a fairy fly-catcher of a beautiful azure blue, whose nest, a 
 thing of beauty like itself, I found cunningly concealed and 
 protected by the curled edges of a Rubus leaf and containing 
 a delicate, pure white ege dotted over with brownish-red spots ; 
 a sea-green magpie (Cissa thalassina), with brown wings, coral 
 beak and legs; and a handsome shrike (Laniellus leucogram- 
 mucus), known only from Java. Civet-cats were very abundant ; 
 and the nocturnal scaly anteater or pangolin (Manis) was 
 pretty often captured in the evening, while clumsily climbing 
 on the trees, licking up with amazing rapidity streams of 
 ants, which are its sole food—an interesting form especially 
 to the embryologist and the genealogist, who find in its 
 structures surviving “marks of ancientness,’ which have 
 greatly helped to unravel the mammalian pedigree. 
 
 Another slow prowler, the Mydaus meliceps, very often made 
 my evening hours quite unbearable by the intensely offensive 
 odour with which, even in its most inoffensive frame of mind, 
 it hedged its crepuscular walks for at least a mile round. It 
 was no use to try to frighten it away, forif its equanimity were 
 disturbed it did not haste to his lair as one could have desired. 
 It thickened, instead, the very air with a malignant scent that 
 clung to one’s garments, furniture and food for weeks. Hors- 
 field has stated that it is exclusively confined to mountains 
 rising over 7000 feet, “and that on these it occurs with the 
 regularity of some plants extending from one end of the island 
 to other on the numerous disconnected summits.” Its altitu- 
 dinal distribution is, however, not nearly so restricted as here 
 
 I2 
 
116 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 stated, for I have encountered it on hills and hot plateaus at 
 all elevations down to below 500 feet above the sea; and it is 
 said not to extend to Hast Java. The native has a superstition 
 that if a man has fortitude enough to eat its flesh he will have 
 become proof against sickness of all kinds. 
 
 In the forests on the southern slopes of the Malawar and the 
 Wayang, the banteng (Bos banteng) lived in considerable 
 herds. The full-grown animal has a magnificent head of 
 horns, and I was very anxious to secure such a trophy; but 
 only after the most wary and patient stalking was I able to 
 get within range of a herd of them, and then only of a calf 
 with immature horns. No more bellicose and dangerous 
 inhabitant of the forest than a wounded bull need hunter care 
 to encounter. 
 
 The baying of troops of Adjags or wild dogs often reached 
 my ears, but in all my efforts to meet them in full hunt I was 
 disappointed. The native accounts—repeated to me in Sumatra 
 a year later, in identically the same terms—of their manner of 
 hunting credits them with so much intelligence, if not reason, 
 that I was anxious to witness the performance for myself. 
 Their food is chiefly the Kantjil and the Muntjae deer, and the 
 natives in both countries averred that, on discovering a patch 
 of alang-alang grass in which these are hiding, the adjags first 
 urinate all the grass in a circle round their fugitives, then 
 drive them out, when, blinded and maddened by the pain of 
 the pungent urine in their eyes, they fall an easy prey to the 
 dogs. ‘They are so exceedingly shy and wary that it is 
 difficult to secure a shot, and I obtained only a single speci- 
 men in bad condition. As soon as the fact became known I 
 had quite a crowd beseeching for shreds of its skin, or if not 
 that for a few hairs or some portion of its body, to suspend or 
 to burn with a form of words near their rice-fields, as a charm 
 to keep off evil influences from the crop. ‘The whole of the 
 carcase was cut up by them, distributed, and carefully carried 
 away for this purpose! 
 
 Such forms of words are implicitly believed in, as I had an 
 opportunity one day of learning from a dealer in krisses, who 
 came to my house to trade. He was very anxious for me to 
 buy a blade, and carefully showed me how to select one that 
 would not fail me in time of need. To be a trusty weapon for 
 
IN JAVA. Fla 
 
 me, it ought to be especially made to some measure of my own 
 body—of hand, arm or thigh, of the breadth of my two thumbs 
 or of my span; but to discover the same potency in a ready- 
 made blade, I ought to divide a straw or a grass-stem, of equal 
 length with the blade, into as many lengths as it contains of its 
 own breadth at a distance from the hilt of twice the measure of 
 the first joint of the thumb. These pieces laid on the blade 
 alternately lengthwise and crosswise would reveal the suitability 
 of the weapon for my use, by the direction of the last piece— 
 crosswise it would indicate a fence—“ a bar sinister” ; length- 
 wise, no obstruction—a favourable omen. Another test was to 
 measure its length by the breadth of my right and left 
 thumbs alternately, repeating at each alternation one of the 
 words, “ S77, Lungu, Dunia, Rara, Pati, Sri,’ &c., and according 
 to which of these words should fall to the last thumb-breadth 
 would the blade be for me a wise choice or not. Sri being a 
 designation of honour, and Dunia, signifying the world, would 
 therefore be good omens; whereas Rava, meaning sickness, 
 and Pati, death, would indicate misfortune, and the purchase of 
 such a kriss would bring me disaster. In much the same way, 
 I can recollect how as boys we used to augur our destiny by 
 the number of buttons on our garments,—whether we were to 
 become. “a soldier, a sailor, a tinker, a tailor, a hangman, a 
 Jawyer or a thief.” 
 
 In the beginning of May I left my bungalow on this 
 salubrious piateau on my return to Buitenzorg. Hverywhere 
 the golden rice-fields were dotted with harvesters, their 
 lacquered hats resplendent in blue and gold, the brown 
 shoulders of the men and the scarlet calicoes of the women 
 and children in the midst of the yellow grain, forming bright 
 pictures in the sunny landscape all along the way. 
 
 After a few weeks in Buitenzorg and Batavia, spent in 
 packing up and despatching my collections, I left for Telok- 
 betong, in South Sumatra. 
 
118 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 APPENDIX TO PART IL. 
 
 I, Description of a new Bat from Java, of the genus Kerivoula. By Oup- 
 FIELD Tuomas, F.Z.S., Assistant in the Zoological Department, 
 British Museum. . 
 
 [From the Annals and Magazine of Natural History, for June 1880.] 
 
 The specimen upon which this description is based was obtained by 
 Mr. H. O. Forbes at Kosala, in Bantam, Java, 2100 feet above the sea, 
 on the 24th of September, 1879, and is now in the British Museum. 
 
 KERIVOULA JAVANA. 
 
 Fur greyish-black, each hair being nearly black for its proximal third, 
 then white for the middle third, the end being black, with sometimes a 
 shining white tip. Ears rather short ; laid forward they reach to about 
 half-way between the eyes and the tip of the nose. Shape of ears and 
 tragus exactly as in K. jugori, the former having the second small con- 
 cavity in the middle of the outer edge, and the latter the deep horizontal 
 notch above the external basal lobule described 
 7p, in that species, as shown in the wood-cut. Dis- 
 
 “4 tribution of fur as in K. papuensis, there being 
 /)) short shining yellowish hairs thickly set along the 
 / forearm, on the thumb quite to the claw, all along 
 the second finger, on both phalanges of the third, 
 and on the digital phalanges of the fourth and 
 é fifth fingers. There are also a few hairs on the 
 HEAD OF K. JAVANA. proximal end of the fifth metacarpal. The tail 
 and the hind limbs quite to the bases of the 
 claws are covered with similar hairs; the edge of the interfemoral, 
 however, is without a fringe. The teeth are quite similar to those of 
 K. papuensis. 
 
 J. javana is thus intermediate between K. jagori, a Philippine species, 
 and K. papuensis, from New Guinea, differing from the latter in the shape 
 of the ears and tragus, and by the absence of an interfemoral fringe, and 
 from the former by the presence of fur upon the limbs, that species 
 having these quite naked. It differs from both, however, in the tricolor 
 character of the fur, as they are of a nearly uniformly dark reddish brown 
 colour, though the tips of the hairs are lighter. 
 
 Measurements of the type, an adult female in spirit: Length, head 
 and body 1:98”, tail 1:72”, head 0°78”, ear 0°6”, tragus 0 37”, forearm 1°58”, 
 thumb 0:27”, third finger 3:0”, fifth finger 2:2”, tibia 0°72”, foot 0:35”. 
 
 
 
IN JAVA. iia 
 
 Il. Ona new Genus of Spiders. By Rev. O. P. CAMBripGE, M.A., C.M.Z.S., &. 
 (Extracted from The Proc. Zool. Soc., 1884, p. 196 et seqq.) 
 
 Mr. H. O. Forbes has lately described (Proceedings of the Zoological 
 Society, 1883, p. 580,) under the provisional name of Thomisus decipiens, 
 the habits of a spider which he met with in Java. The spider itself is 
 remarkable from its exact resemblance to the droppings of a bird; and it 
 is still more remarkable from the increased resemblance added in the 
 spinning of a thin white web on the surface of a leaf, by means of which 
 it secures itself, on its back, to the leaf, leaving its legs free to enclose and 
 seize any insect unwittingly resting upon or crossing the apparantly 
 innocuous bird-dropping. Mr. Forbes kindly sent me the spider for 
 examination before writing an account of its habits. I immediately 
 recognised its near affinity to an East-Indian spider ( Thomisus tuberosus, 
 Bl.), of which I possess the type specimen; but, unable at the moment to 
 make a thorough examination and scarch through books and specimens, 
 conjectured that it was allied to some spiders described by Dr. Karsch, 
 and to one sent me some years ago from South Africa. A more complete 
 examination since made has convinced me that these latter species 
 (referred to by Mr. Forbes) belong to entirely different groups. I find, 
 however, in my collection two other spiders, from Ceylon and Bombay, 
 of the same genus and very closely allied in species, but quite distinct 
 from that which Mr. Forbes notes. Upon these, together with the one 
 last mentioned and Thomisus tuberosus,, Bl., 1 have ventured to found a 
 new genus, and I beg to record my thanks to its discoverer for so kindly 
 sending me an example of Thomisus decipiens and for having also made 
 _ known to us the very peculiar and interesting habits belonging, not only 
 to that spider, but also, I have little doubt, to other closely allied 
 species. * 
 
 In his description of the habits of 7: decipiens, Mr. Forbes expresses 
 the difficulty he has in understanding the formation by the spider of a 
 web which, while serving to attach itself to the leaf, at the same time so 
 exactly represents the fluid portion of a bird’s-dropping spread out on the 
 leaf around the more solid parts; and his concluding sentences seem to 
 me to imply the conclusion that the spider consciously supplements the 
 effects of natural selection on its form and resemblance to the solid ex- 
 creta, by spinning a web to resemble the fluid portion. It seems to me, 
 on the contrary, that the whole is easily explained by the operation of 
 natural selection, without supposing consciousness in the spider in any 
 part of the process. The web spun on the surface of the leaf is evidently, 
 so far as the spider has any design or consciousness in the matter, spun 
 simply to secure itself in the proper position to await and seize its prey. 
 The silk, which by its fineness, whiteness, and close adhesion to the leaf 
 causes it to resemble the more fluid parts of the excreta, would gradually 
 attain those qualities by natural selection, just as the spider itself would 
 gradually, and probably pari passu, become, under the influence of the 
 same law, more and more like the solid portion. 
 
 * Doleschall (‘ Tweede Bijdrage tot de Kennis der Arachniden van den In- 
 dischen Archipel,’ p. 58, pl. xi. figs. 9 and 9a) describes and figures, also from Java, 
 a spider (Thomisus dissimilis, Dol.) possibly of this genus, and perhaps nearly 
 allied to T. decipiens; but the description is too meagre and general to enable 
 any certain conclusion to be drawn from it, and the figure given of the eyes is 
 totally unlike. 
 
120 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Fam. THOMISIDH.—ORNITHOSCATOIDES. 
 
 Cephalothorax short, broad, as broad or broader than long, moderately 
 convex above and slightly tuberculose; caput short, truncate in front, and 
 strongly compressed on its lateral margins. 
 
 Eyes in two curved rows, the anterior shortest (the convexity of the 
 curves directed forwards, and forming a crescent); small, not greatly 
 differing in size, but the four laterals are largest, and the four centrals 
 smallest; those of the lateral pairs are seated on or at the base of tuber- 
 culose eminences. 
 
 Falces strong, not very long, conical, and nearly vertical. 
 
 Mawille moderately long and strong, a little wider at the top than in 
 the middle; rounded at the top on the outer side, and slightly leaning 
 over the labiwm, which is about half the length of the maxille, and of a 
 somewhat oblong form rounded at the apex. 
 
 Sternum oblong-oval. ; 
 
 Legs strong, moderately long, 1, 2, 4,38; those of the first and second 
 pairs much the strongest and longest, but nearly equal in length; those 
 also of the third and fourth pairs are nearly of equal length and strength. 
 All are somewhat roughened or tuberculose, especially those of the first 
 two pairs, and furnished with spines of varied length and strength ; those 
 on the tibiz and metatarsi of the two anterior pairs are strongest, the 
 longest forming two parallel longitudinal rows beneath the joints. The 
 legs terminate with two strong, curved, pectinated claws, beneath which 
 is a small claw-tuft. Among the spines are one or two not very long, 
 rather strong, of a pale colour or semi-diaphanous appearance, on the 
 upper sides of the femora; these spines have a peculiar function as 
 observed in one of the species, and may very possibly be of generic value, 
 though spines of various sizes are found similarly situated in many 
 other Thomisid genera, while their special function (if any) has not been 
 yet observed, so far as I am aware, in other instances. 
 
 The palpi terminate with a single pectinated claw. 
 
 Abdomen broader behind than in front and truncated at both extemities ; 
 the upper surface and hinder part more or less thickly covered with 
 round or subconical, shining, or other tubercular elevations. The spin- 
 ners are short, stout, and closely grouped within a somewhat circular 
 sheath-like cincture much resembling the disposition of those of many 
 Epeirids. fe 
 
 ORNITHOSACATOIDES DECIPIENS. 
 
 Thomisus decipiens, Forbes, P. 7. S. 1888, p. 586, pl. LI. Adult female, 
 length rather above 6% lines. 
 
 The general colour of this spider is a hoary or yellowish ashy grey 
 marked with black. The abdomen has a large, somewhat quadrate black 
 patch at the middle of its hinder extremity; on this patch are placed 
 eight shining roundish dark-brown tubercles; the four largest form a 
 transverse, unequally-sided parallelogram at the fore part of the black 
 patch ; the other four, which are much the smallest, form a longer trans- 
 verse parallelogram immediately behind the other. At the hinder part 
 also, on either side of the shining tubercles, are several strong tuberculi- 
 form eminences or prominences, of a similar kind to which are also four 
 small ones in a transverse line at the extreme fore margin ; some other 
 depressed spots or pits are also disposed on the upper surface, with a 
 dark blackish suffused patch at the middle of the anterior extremity, and 
 another on each side just in front of the foremost lateral eminence, 
 
IN JAVA, Tot 
 
 The cephalothorax has a black irregular patch on each side of the 
 hinder part of the thoracic region. The ocular region is somewhat 
 suffused with blackish, and an irregular black, somewhat V-shaped 
 marking indicates the junction of the caput and thorax. The two 
 anterior pairs of legs have some black suffused markings on the upper 
 side of the femora, the fore half (or rather more) of the tibi, the meta- 
 tarsi, and tarsi of those two pairs being almost wholly black; while the 
 two hinder pairs have only an irregular black marking here and there. 
 
 The spines on the tibiz and metatarsi of the first and second pairs of 
 legs are numerous, long, strong, and conspicuous. 
 
 The pale ones (mentioned above) on the upper sides of the femora are 
 used, according to Mr. Forbes’s observations, to secure the spider on its 
 back to a patch of whitish silk spun upon the surface of aleaf. When so 
 secured the spider has the exact appearance of the droppings of some 
 bird, and the white silk patch emerging irregularly outside the spider has 
 the appearance of the more liquid portion of the droppings flowing out 
 and drying on the leaf.* 
 
 The eyes of each row respectively are equidistant from each other, but 
 those of the fore-central pair form a shorter line than those of the hind- 
 central pair. The four central eyes form a square whose anterior side is 
 the shortest; and the height of the clypeus, which projects forwards, 
 is nearly about equal to half that of the facial space. 
 
 The legs are, as described in the generic diagnosis, strong and minutely 
 tuberculose, the tibie being of a peculiar bent form. 
 
 A single example was found by Mr. Forbes in W. Java, and at a later 
 period a second on the Musi River, Sumatra. 
 
 * Mr. Forbes has, since the above was printed, remarked to me that in the two 
 instances which came under his notice, the resemblance extended even to the 
 running down of the fluid excreta towards the lower side of the sloping leaf, 
 ending in a kind of knob. Mr. Forbes also expressly disclaimed the idea of 
 crediting the spider with any conscious design, but he says that “the similitude 
 is so exact, that the spider might have had consciousness, and it could not have 
 been more exact if the spider did have it.” Is not its exactness probably the 
 result of the unconsciousness of the spider? Conscious design would possibly 
 have resulted in failure and abandoning the plan, or at least in a more clumsy 
 imitation. 
 
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 SKETCH MAP 
 
 SOUTH SUMATRA 
 
 shewing the Author’s route 
 
 Route thus —o— 
 
 ENGLISH MILES 
 9 10 20 30 60 
 The boundary line of the Mountains on East & West, 
 is drawn where they atta arvelevation of 600 feet 
 hills below that elevation are not mdicated 
 The portion thus shaded. PL" Indicates alluvial lands . 
 
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 \ Kaiser's Bay grt, Lamponrg 
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 = aS 7 A i) | Erakazoa ty 
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 te 102 103 Longitude Eastfrom Greenwich 104: a io : 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 London : Sampson Low, Marston, Searle , Rivington & Co. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 SOJOURN IN THE LAMPONGS—continued. 
 
 Leave Batavia for Telok-betong—Lampong Bay—Telok-betong—Leave for 
 Gedong-tetahan—Forest scenery by the way—Escape from a tiger— 
 Flowers in the forest—Gedong-tetahan—Birds and insects there— Move 
 to Kotta-djawa—The village—Ruthless destruction of the forest—Trees 
 — Entomological treasures—Move to Gunung Trang—The pepper trade 
 —Birds there—Interesting butterflies. 
 
 EMBARKING at Batavia on the morning of the 18th of No- 
 vember, 1880, our course lay westward through the Thousand 
 Islands into the Straits of Sunda, where, rounding the base 
 of the Rajabasa volcano, we steamed up the Lampong Bay, 
 between its scalloped shores girt by high hills—the southern 
 fork of that unbroken chain which, commencing in the north 
 of the island, runs down the western coast, and trifurcates 
 before reaching the extremity of tle island to form two bays, 
 on the west Kaiser's Bay, and on the east Lampong Bay. 
 As we steamed under the shade of these peaks, the sun went: 
 down tinging the crests on our left with gold, and those on 
 our right with the richest purple. 
 
 Before we dropped anchor off the little town the full moon 
 had come out; and one can scarcely say which was fairer, the 
 sun-lit panorama of the day’s sail, or the moon-lit landscape, 
 with the pale, soft light on the hills, whose slopes guided 
 the eye down to the white circle of the shore-line, on which 
 the palm-trees, everywhere dotting its margin, had their 
 crowns transformed into flashing plumes of silver. 
 
 Telok-betong is the chief town of the Lampong Residency, 
 which forms the most southerly province of Sumatra. Be- 
 _ sides the Resident and the chief administrative civil officers, 
 the only other European inhabitants were the commandant, a 
 couple of lieutenants, and a surgeon Dr. Machik, an enthusi- 
 astic ichthyologist and conchologist, in charge ofa native gar- 
 
126 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 rison of some 200 men. In addition to the true natives of the 
 town, there was a large campong of Chinese, a few Arabs, with a 
 considerable fluctuating population of traders from Borneo and 
 Celebes, and other islands of the Archipelago. The Buginese 
 or Celebes men are by far the most skilled navigators, and the 
 greatest traders of them all; Macassar praus being famous 
 throughout the Eastern seas for their voyages made without 
 compass, yet rarely with mishap, from the eastern coasts of 
 New Guinea to the Indian Ocean in the west, trading in their 
 native-made cloths, in the lovely lories which they bring from 
 east of their own shores, and in the native Macassar oil. The 
 town was, therefore, before its destruction by the terrible 
 earthquake wave of August 18838, inhabited by a rather hete- 
 rogeneous collection of islanders; and, in consequence of each 
 race building their domiciles according to the fashion in their 
 own country, it was very irregular; but what it lost in this 
 respect it gained in picturesqueness. It stood but little above 
 the level of the sea, on a low narrow flat, which intervened 
 between the shore and the very abruptly rising hills, on whose 
 slope are situated the Government offices and some of the Huro- 
 pean residences, commanding a most lovely view of the bay. 
 One cannot examine a map of Sumatra without being struck 
 by the singular disposition of the land. Along the whole 
 length of the west coast is found, as already remarked, a long 
 range of mountains with their outliers, while to the east of 
 the Barisan, as this range is named, not a mountain, and 
 scarcely even a hill, is to be seen. The entire eastern portion 
 is one vast plain, of which immense tracts often le at a time 
 under water—the word Lampong signifies “bobbing on the 
 water.” One may travel in some parts in a straight line west- 
 ward from the east coast for 150 or 200 miles without reach- 
 ing an elevation of over 400 or 500 feet, while some 30 miles 
 farther the Barisan peaks may ascend to over 10,000 feet. 
 After a short stay in the town, I started for Gedong-tetahan, 
 some twenty miles north, provided by the Resident with a man- 
 date to the chiefs of the various margas or districts through 
 which my road lay, commanding them to render me every 
 assistance. In Java the traveller has to look out for his own 
 coolies, with whom he makes his own terms as to distance and 
 remuneration, and finds no difficulty in so doing; but here, the 
 
IN SUMATRA. 127 
 
 people being more lethargic, not a single individual would be 
 got to volunteer to work, however tempting the hire, but for 
 a Government enactment, then in force, that the chief of 
 each village be responsible for the conveyance of the baggage 
 of all officials and persons travelling under the authority of 
 the Government from his own village to the next. Where 
 villages lay close together, much time was lost by changing, 
 and as within a considerable radius of the coast they dotted 
 the wayside at every half mile or less, progress was distressingly 
 slow and wearying to the temper as well as to the flesh; for, 
 notwithstanding the order sent forward in advance, the coolies 
 were never on the spot; one had gone to eat, another had gone 
 in search of his knife, without which no one will stir, another 
 had been taken sick quite suddenly, and such as were waiting 
 were ready to swear that the baggage was twice the regulation 
 weight—80 to 90 Ibs.—and they would not touch it. 
 
 Before many of the houses which I passed were spread out 
 drying in the sun large quantities of pepper, what I saw repre- 
 senting alone a sum of money sufficient to feed their whole 
 families for nearly eighteen months. Were cockfighting and 
 gaming not ingrained in them as a second nature, these people 
 might amass great fortunes for their condition of life. Some 
 do, indeed, hoard up considerable sums; but one had only to 
 look on the children and young girls to see where a great deal 
 of it went. Every girl is arrayed in sinkels or necklets, of 
 various shapes of heavy silver, few or many, according to the 
 wealth or position of her parents; on their arms rows and 
 rows of bracelets, and in their ears large button-like earrings. 
 These ornaments are the sign of a girl’s maidenhood, and 
 are worn till she marries. The wealth of a Lampong lady is 
 thus estimated by the number and weight of her ornaments, 
 which are, however, fully displayed only on feast days and 
 high occasions. Most of these ornaments are made by native 
 silver- or gold-smiths, and are purchased weight for weight in 
 silver or gold as the case may be. 
 
 After the first few villages were passed, my road lay mostly 
 between dense forest, extending for miles on both sides of the 
 way. ‘The trees were magnificent in shape and foliage—giant 
 pillars, seventy and eighty feet without a branch, supporting 
 superb leafy crowns under whose shade a thousand men might 
 
128 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 bivouac, with trunk and limbs entwined and warped, often even 
 to fatal strangulation, by an impossible unravelment of lianes 
 and huge climbers, which hung in coils and loops, and stretched 
 from tree to tree for hundreds of yards, themselves adorned 
 as with finely curving scroll work, with ferns and orchids 
 and delicate twining epiphytes. Beneath this shade a second 
 forest grows of lesser trees, below which again a dense thicket 
 of low shrubs and herbs, Caladiums, and broad-leaved Sezta- 
 minee (or Ginger family) and of horrid thorn- and _hook- 
 bearing rattan-palms, climbing and holding on to everything, 
 
 blocking up every unoccupied space—the whole forming an_ 
 
 impenetrable wall of vegetation. , 
 
 In this same portion of the road, a few weeks later, while 
 returning from the coast, on horseback alone and unarmed, 
 on a pitch dark night, I had a narrow escape from a tiger. 
 My horse suddenly snorted in a strange manner, and came 
 to a dead stop with its feet planted in the ground, then 
 reared back; at the same moment the great body of a tiger 
 shot close past my face and alighted with a heavy thud in 
 the jungle on my other side. Haunted with the idea that I 
 was perhaps being stalked, the night became doubly dismal to 
 me. My horse, a miserable pony at best, was so terror-stricken 
 
 as to be almost useless, and the seven miles that I traversed | 
 
 before the light of my own dwelling flashed on me seemed 
 the longest I ever rode. 
 
 Mr. Wallace’s truthful works have, or ought to have, now 
 dispelled the erroneous ideas about the wonderful profusion of 
 fine flowers existing in the tropics. This is just one of the 
 products of “ the summer of the world ” that the traveller fails 
 to see unless he search very well and very closely. The great 
 forest trees are too high for one to be able to see whether they 
 bear either fruit or flowers. It is only on rare occasions—and 
 then the sight repays him for many a weary mile—that he 
 alights on a grand specimen, whose top is a blaze of crimson 
 or gold; more generally he knows that some high tree, which 
 of many it is often very difficult to say, is performing its funce- 
 
 tions by seeing broken petals or fallen fruit spread over yards’ 
 
 and yards of the ground. Of the great mass of lower vege- 
 tation nothing is seen but green foliage. Hours and hours, 
 sometimes days even, I have traversed a forest-bounded road. 
 
 
 
IN SUMATRA. 129 
 
 
 
 without seeing a blossom gay enough to attract admiration ; 
 far oftener I have stopped to pluck a gorgeous fruit. A vast 
 amount of tropical vegetation has small inconspicuous flowers 
 of a more or less green colour, so that when they do occur 
 the eye fails to detect them readily. The fresh green, the 
 rich pink, and even scarlet of the opening leaves are beautiful 
 beyond description, and the autumn-tinted foliage never ceases 
 through all the seasons, and with so much colour one is quite 
 content to forget the absence of flowers. 
 
 On the passing traveller, therefore, the vegetation at the lower 
 elevations leaves the impression of a tangled heterogeneous 
 mass of foliage of every shape and shade mingled together in 
 such unutterable confusion, that not one single plant stands 
 out in anything like its own individuality on his mind. 
 
 Every now and then a curve of the road brought me on a 
 colony of Siamang apes (Stumunga syndactyla), some of them 
 hanging by one arm to a dead branch of a high-fruiting tree 
 with eighty unobstructed feet between them and the ground, 
 making the woods resound with their loud barking howls. 
 The Siamang comes next in size to the Orang-utan, which is 
 the largest of the great apes living in this part of the world, 
 and which is found elsewhere only in the Malacca peninsula, 
 the Orang-utan being confined to Sumatra and Borneo. 
 
 The Siamang is a very powerful animal when full grown, 
 and has long jet-black glancing hair. In height it stands 
 little over three feet three or four inches, but the stretch 
 of its arms across the chest measures no less than five feet 
 five to six inches, endowing it with a great power of rapid 
 progression among the branches of the trees. Its singular 
 ery is produced by its inflating, through a valve from the 
 windpipe, a large sac extending to its lips and cheeks, situated 
 below the skin of the throat, then suddenly expelling the 
 enclosed air in greater or less jets, so as to produce the singular 
 modulations of its voice. 
 
 Gedong-tetahan proved a very unfavourable hunting 
 ground, as it was surrounded by unprofitable alang-alang 
 fields. Nevertheless, I obtained some interesting birds. 
 Among them I seeured the crested bee-eater (Nyctiornis 
 amicta), a beautiful creature with rose-coloured head and a 
 throat of a rich shade of vermilion, which preferred the open 
 
 K 
 
130 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 wayside trees to the dense forest shade; Rhododytes diardi, 
 one of the cuckoo family, with a ight green bill, and velvet 
 scarlet eye-wattle ; and green and black barbets, whose peculiar 
 and incessant cries filled the air. 
 
 In the open paths and sunny roads I netted scarlet Pieride 
 (Appias nero), often flying in flocks of over a score, exactly 
 matching in colour the fallen leaves, which it was amusing to 
 observe how often they mistook for one of their own fellows 
 at rest, and to watch the futile attentions of an amorous male 
 towards such a leaf moving slightly in the wind. Among the 
 Preridex, it has been said by Mr. Wallace that the male is as 
 a rule more conspicuous than the female; but in this genus 
 Appias—with the exception of a little more black in the female, 
 the sexes of Appias nero are alike—the female is really, fre-_ 
 quently, more conspicuously marked, and attracts the eye on 
 the wing quite as readily asthe male. Nearly all the species 
 of Callidryas and Catopsilia, as Mr. Butler has pointed out to 
 me in specimens in the British Museum, have the females more 
 conspicuously marked than the males. Hebomoia glaucippe 
 and its allies may be instanced, and the genera Ganoris and 
 Belenois, as for example B. eudoxia and B. theora, in the latter 
 of which only the female has the front wings orange. 
 
 From Gedong-tatahan I moved a little further west to Kotta- 
 djawa. All along the way crowds of Buceros birds kept con- 
 stantly flying overhead with their peculiar noisy scream and 
 the breeze-like whirr of their wings, while from far in the woods 
 came the softer koo-ow of the Argus pheasants, than which, 
 among all the feathered tribes, scarcely any bird is lovelier, 
 In Sumatra, the Argus occupies the place held in Java by the 
 Peacock—a bird belonging to the same natural family—which 
 seen in its native wildness is unsurpassed for brilliancy of 
 colour and decorative appendages, but its ornamentation is too 
 gaudy for long contemplation ; while in the case of the Argus 
 Pheasant one may admire feather by feather, and the same 
 feather again and again, and daily see new beauties. The tail 
 of the peacock is formed by a great development of what is 
 technically known as the upper tail coverts, while that of the 
 Argus pheasant is formed chiefly by an enormous elongation 
 of the two tail quills and of the secondary wing feathers, no 
 two of which are exactly the same; and the closer they are 
 

 
“‘VMV(CG-VLLOM FO ADV TIIA 
 
 “tet abnod aon f os 
 
 
 
IN SUMATRA. Ti 
 
 examined, the greater is seen to be the extreme chasteness of 
 their markings, and their rich, varied and harmonious colouring. 
 When alarmed the Argus escapes by running through the 
 thick underscrub, when the brilliancy of its plumage, by being 
 gathered close about its body, is quite concealed. 
 
 Till L had observed it at a later period, [ was not aware of its 
 habit of making a large circus, some ten to twelve feet in 
 _ diameter, in the forest, which it clears of every leaf and twig 
 and branch, till the ground is perfectly swep$ and garnished. 
 On the margin of this circus there is invariably a projecting 
 branch or high-arched root, at a few feet elevation above the 
 ground, on which the female bird takes its place, while in the 
 ring the male-—the male birds alone possess great decoration— 
 shows off allits magnificence for the gratification and pleasure 
 of his consort, and to exalt himself in her eyes. It isa strange 
 fact that when the male bird has been caught—these birds 
 are much trapped by the natives, their excessive shyness 
 making it almost impossible to shoot them—the female in- 
 variably returns to the same circus with a new mate, even if 
 two or three times in succession her lord should be caught. 
 The female bird is rarely caught, owing to her flying to her 
 roost when approaching the circus, while the great winged 
 males walk into the ring, which the native skilfully barricades 
 all round except the one spot where he sets his snare. 
 
 The houses in Kotta-djawa at first sight looked as if they 
 were all roof and no body, for the broad thatched slopes and 
 gables reached down to within five or six feet from the ground, 
 where they projected out somewhat horizontally, so as to leave 
 a free space all round the square bamboo or bark-made, box- 
 like, propped-up edifice, in which, protected from sun and rain, 
 most of the rice-stamping and other household operations were 
 performed. In south Sumatra, though rivers abound, and 
 there is much level land, the natives, till very recently, took 
 always their rice crops from forest land, which produces a far 
 less return of grain, of a quality, too, much inferior to sawah 
 (or wet-field) grown corn. ‘To make this dadang the native 
 goes after the virgin forest, leaving his old fields to produce a 
 new crop of trees, if the alang-alang grass does not get the 
 upper hand. 
 
 The virgin woods contain the really interesting and valu- 
 
 K 2 
 
 ~ 
 
132 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 able vegetation of the country ; these trees being, to a great 
 extent, the lineal descendants of the vegetation that has 
 always existed on the island since it came into its present 
 condition at least. Perhaps indeed some of the aged giants 
 may have actually witnessed the young days of the present 
 geological cycle. In the virgin forest death and decay are 
 just as rapid as anywhere else; individual trees are constantly 
 falling out of the ranks, but their place is taken by younger 
 members either of the same or of neighbouring species. 
 When, however, this ancient forest is devastated to any 
 great extent, either by natural means or by the woodcutter’s 
 axe, the trees that arise belong to a different lineage, the new 
 wood is in great bulk of different species, which, strange to say, 
 were but rarely to be found in the old forest. 
 
 As in Java the original forest is rapidly disappearing ; each 
 year sees immense tracts felled for rice fields, more than is 
 actually necessary, and also much wanton destruction by wilful 
 fires. Trees of the rarest and finest timber are hewed, half burned, 
 and then left to rot; amid their prostrate trunks a couple of 
 harvests are reaped, then the ground is deserted, and soon fills 
 up with the fast-growing and worthless woods, or falls a prey 
 to the ineradicable alang-alang grass. Our children’s children 
 will search in vain in their travels for the old forest trees of 
 which they have read in the books of their grandfathers ; 
 and to make their acquaintance, they will have to content 
 themselves with what they can glean from the treasured 
 specimens in various herbaria, which will then be the only 
 remains of the extinct vegetable races. 
 
 In every clearing, trees, from their gigantic size, have here 
 and there escaped the axe, and been allowed to stand un- 
 molested. One cannot resist a feeling of pity for the solitude 
 of these towering monarchs, whose grandeur, concealed as they 
 stood amid the multitude of their peers, can now be seen in 
 all their stateliness. They look the very picture of strength and 
 immobility ; yet, though they have withstood, in the company 
 of their fellows, the storm and sun of centuries, they survive 
 their solitude but a very few seasons, getting feebler year by 
 year, one great limb after another dying and dropping off, till 
 all life ceases, when some lightning flash or sudden blast 
 measures their noble stems on the ground. 
 
IN SUMATRA. 133 
 
 To obtain specimens of the ancient arboreal race was a task 
 slow and difficult of accomplishment ; for but few trees could be 
 felled in one day, and good eyes were required to tell at a 
 height of 150ft. or 200ft. if there were fruit or flower to reward 
 the labour and time spent in the operation; and when, after 
 hard toil, a great tree came crashing down, letting in the 
 sunlight on the damp ground, the beauty of the foliage and of 
 the flowers or fruit was often a rich recompense for the labour. 
 It was a happy thing, that such a giant could not fail to 
 bring to the ground portions of one or more of his neighbours 
 in his downfall, large enough to afford grand specimens. 
 
 No one could fail to be attracted by the at first unusual 
 sight of trees bearing their blossoms, or fruit, or both, in great 
 profusion on their bare trunks. Of these the oftenest recurring 
 belong to a group producing some of the most beautiful trees 
 and shrubs in the world, the Ternstroemacex, or Tea-family, 
 to which the Camellia belongs. The pendent pure white or 
 pink-flushed, golden-centred corollas of the Saurayas, cluster 
 round their trunks, hiding them for twenty or thirty feet of 
 their height, like maypoles busked for a féte. Besides orchids 
 and the Asclepiadacex which contain the wax-plants, or Hoyas, 
 the brightest epiphytes were certainly the species of Aischy- 
 nanthes, many of which have drooping bell-flowers of the 
 deepest scarlet. 
 
 Zoological prizes had just as diligently to be searched for as 
 botanical trophies ; as in the case of flowers, insects, birds and 
 other animals do not wait, even in the profuse tropics, at every 
 blossom, or on every branch for the collector’s net and the 
 hunter’s gun. In the depths of the virgin forest little life is to 
 be seen ; there, an oppressive silence reigns. One hears occasion- 
 ally only a distant note from some bird or mammal, or the stridu- 
 lating of a cicad on a tree trunk far out of eye-shot, and in the 
 second growth, if these are more abundant as the ear asserts, 
 they are as difficult, from numerous obstacles to sight and 
 progress, to see or secure. The ornithologist and the entomo- 
 logist obtain most of their treasures in the small virgin forest 
 patches in the neighbourhood of villages, in wide shady paths 
 in the great forest, and along sunny walks amid the opened 
 portions of the second growth. 
 
 I was fortunate in finding a little of all this description of 
 
134 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 country at Kotta-djawa. My favourite resort was the sunny 
 pathways, bordered by second growth forest of some size, 
 where many attractive Mussendas, euphorbiaceous trees and 
 shrubs, and thick clumps of the aromatic and brightly varie- 
 gated Lantana, were always in flower. 
 
 The Lantana was one of the greatest favourites of most kinds 
 of insects ; beetles, bees, and butterflies were always present by 
 scores ; and I observed that they visited the different coloured 
 florets quite indiscriminately. Of the last the swallow-tailed 
 species—Papilio brama, theseus, arycles, arjuna, and a lovely 
 black-and-white species which is known as Papilio satwrnus 
 ——were specially abundant, but difficult to secure, as they were 
 greatly persecuted by all the other species feeding on it—the 
 Preride and the dragon-flies being their worst enemies. 
 They constantly sailed round and round in a timid way, as if 
 watching for an opportunity to swoop in, but were often so 
 driven off that for half an hour at a time I have seen them 
 unable to make one successful visit. The beautiful tailed 
 Loxuras and Aphneus were also in abundance, while Hypolymnas 
 anomala frequented the thick jungle, floating out at intervals 
 into the open. “This species offers the most remarkable 
 case known among butterflies of a reversal of the usual sexual 
 colouring, the male being always dull brown and the female 
 elossed with rich blue . . . The brilliant blue gloss causes the 
 female to resemble or mimic Huplea midamus” (Wallace). 
 Mr. Butler has shown me in the British Museum, however, 
 males with nearly as much blue as the females. It is 
 singular that no male of this species is yet known from Java. 
 Specimens in the British Museum, named by Mr. Wallace as 
 males of Anomala,are not from Jaya. Undoubted males from: 
 Malacca and Borneo have broad patches of blue towards the 
 border of the front wings. 'The female Anomala from Java has 
 more blue than the specimens of the same sex from Borneo, 
 and it is not improbable that the Java male may have more 
 blue than the Bornean. What appears to be a female, named 
 Hypolymnas wallaceana by Mr. Butler from ‘ India,’ corresponds 
 with the male H. anomala (of Wallace’s description) in the 
 British Museum from Borneo. The Eupleea which these species 
 mimic is common to Indo-Malasia. 
 
 From Kotta-djawa I moved further westward to Gunung- 
 
IN SUMATRA. 135 
 
 
 
 Trang,‘the chief centre of the pepper and dammar trade, where 
 _ there was more high land and virgin forest. From this village 
 alone in the height of the pepper season more than fifty pony 
 loads go every week to the coast, each carrying 13 piculs, 
 or 219 Amsterdam pounds weight. It is rare that single 
 loads are sent down to the coast, generally a small troop goes to- 
 gether, and the village square presents rather an exciting scene 
 in the early morning of a despatch of cargo. The strong but 
 wofully skinny creatures have, like their masters, little relish 
 for hard work, and conduct themselves in the most refractory 
 manner possible—object:ng first of all to be caught, then 
 resenting with teeth and limbs the impost of pack-saddle and 
 bags. When, however, the last cord has been adjusted, after 
 many imprecations and Allah-il-Allahs from the pack-master, 
 they give in to the inevitable with perfect grace, marching 
 off as docilely as possible generally behind a belled leader, 
 and thereafter require little or no attention. 
 
 The price obtained for this amount of pepper at the coast 
 amounts to about £118, no mean amount per week (during 
 the season) for a small village, whose only outlay consists in 
 the cost of food and the Government. tax of one guilder per 
 head. It takes seven or eight years for a new pepper garden 
 to reach maturity, but when it is in full bearing, each shrub 
 will yield as much as 10s. 8d. worth of fruit in a season. 
 
 The other great industry of the place is dammar collecting. 
 This substance, as is well known, is the resin which exudes 
 from notches made in various species of coniferous and 
 dipterocarpous trees. Some of these, especially of the latter 
 family, are immense giants, out of whose stem—which often 
 reaches 100 feet before branching—the native cuts large 
 notches, at intervals of a few feet, up to a height of some 
 forty or fifty feet from the ground. The tree is then left for 
 three or four months, when, if it be a very healthy one, suf- 
 ficient dammar will have exuded to make it worth collecting ; 
 the yield may then be as much as ninety-four Amsterdam 
 pounds. Most trees, however, exude a far less quantity and 
 require a longer time. 
 
 The damar attam (from the Hopea dryobalanoides and other 
 Dipterocarpex, and not from the Dammara (Conifere) ), a beau- 
 tiful clear glass-like substance—the “eye-dammar,” as_ the 
 
136 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 native name signifies—is the most prized, and fetches about 
 two guineas for 125 Amsterdam pounds. ‘The greater part of 
 this goes to the European market, to be made into varnishes 
 principally, and is purchased at the coast by the Chinese 
 traders, who in turn carry it to Batavia and Singapore to 
 resell it. A much inferior sort called “stone-dammar” got 
 from Vatica eximia, also one of the Dipterocarpex, is worth about 
 2s. 6d. only per 125 Amsterdam pounds, and is purchased at 
 the coast by the Bugis from Celebes and the Bawean men 
 from near Borneo, to be used by the native prau-builders to 
 fill wp seams and leaks. The thick, close, tough bark of the 
 tree, however, is a much more valuable commodity, for, as it 
 can be stripped off in immense sheets, it is greatly used 
 instead of planks or the more.open bamboo wickerwork, as 
 sides for their houses, and is an excellent substitute. 
 
 The native distinguishes his pepper shrubs and his dammar 
 trees from all other sorts by the expressive title of pohone 
 wang, or money trees. The pepper (calamitously, he holds,) 
 does not grow wild in the forest in any way suitable to his 
 desire, but must be planted and tended. The dammar 
 requires no such care; and as he roams the forest, to his eager 
 eye no tree, shrub, or herb has the slightest interest if it is not 
 an unclaimed pohone wang. He has not sufficient interest in 
 those who are to come after him two generations hence—just 
 as his forefathers before him had none—to plant a dammar- 
 yielding arboretum; he prefers to spend days in hunting the 
 forest in their quest. 
 
 When he has fallen on such a prize—now to be found only 
 in the dense forest far from any dwelling-place—he at once 
 proceeds to clear off from under it the surrounding vegetation, 
 and to make several deep hacks or distinctive marks as the 
 sign of appropriation. It is then safe; for it is in their code 
 of honour to respect such a tree, not from any high moral 
 principle, but from the more interested reason—lest, if to-day 
 he robs his neighbour’s dammar, he himself, who may to- 
 morrow be the lucky finder of perhaps several richer trees, 
 may in like manner be robbed. ‘There exists also the 
 inherited superstitious dread of some unknown evil to follow; 
 for perchance the finder has hedged his property by the 
 sanctity of a spell, the violation of which, will, sooner or 
 
IN SUMATRA. hae 
 
 later, it is believed, be followed by the visitation of a sétan in 
 the form ofa sickness or misfortune. If a sétan be supposed to 
 reside in any spot, not an individual will be found brave 
 enough to approach it, however great profit might accrue to 
 the venturer. 
 
 In these forests I added to my collection some of the fairest 
 of the feathered tribes—orange and scarlet-crested woodpeckers, 
 green barbets, blue and bronze doves, green and scarlet twitter- 
 ing Loriculi ; and on dead snags of the lonely outliers large 
 hawks and falcons. Of mammalian animals my most interesting 
 capture was the Sciwropterus, a flying squirrel with large 
 gentle lemur-like eyes, soft fur, and black margined parachute 
 expansions. 
 
 The neighbourhood of this village I found to be an excellent 
 locality for butterflies; for there were abundance of paths 
 among second-growth forests, many open clumps of flowering 
 shrubs, and hot sandy and pebbly banks along a broad and 
 shallow stream unobstructed by bushes, sunny corners, and 
 shady nooks innumerable. Almost every walk I took is 
 indelibly and most delightfully memorable by the finding of 
 some gay or remarkable form. specially numerous were 
 those interesting species, which have the gift of the slippers of 
 invisibility to rescue them in dangerous moments. ITrequent- 
 ing the dense thickets they would flit out into more open 
 spots, displaying for a few seconds the rich brilliancy of the 
 cobalt of the upper sides of their wings, then settling either 
 on a dry leaf, or more commonly on the ground among fallen 
 foliage and twigs, whose colour, exactly matching their closed 
 wings, concealed them beyond power of detection. Of these 
 I Bifained Amathusia amethystus, Coelites epiminthia, C. A y- 
 chioides and Hurytela castelnawi. 
 
 Few butterflies can compare with another of my captures 
 here, the Amblypodia eumolpus, the upper sides of whose 
 wings are of the most sparkling emerald. A less brilliant but 
 very chaste species of Cyrestes (C. periander) fell also to my 
 lot only after great difficulty, for it loves the dense thickets, 
 flitting with short flights from the under side of one leaf to 
 the under side of another, where, spreading itself flat out, it 
 disappears and is not easy to find. If with my hunters I 
 sat down for a rest in an open sunny spot after a hot chase, we 
 
138 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 were often the centre of attraction for quite a flock of a very 
 beautiful large butterfly, Hupleea ochsenheimeri, which would 
 fearlessly rest on their naked bodies and on my sweating 
 hands, whence they allowed themselves to be captured be- 
 tween the fingers in the easiest manner possible. Another 
 butterfly also, the Cynthia juliana, was often caught at the 
 sweating bodies of the natives. 
 
IN SUMATRA. 189 
 
 
 
 
 
 CHAT Hi LI. 
 SOJOURN IN THE LAMPONGS—continued. 
 
 Move towards the Tengamus Mountain—Butterflies found on the journey 
 thither—Tiohmomon—The Balai, a characteristic institution—Descent 
 of the Lampongers—Their Language—Divisions of the }rovince—Titles 
 and dignities — Ornaments — Festivities and amusements — Marriage 
 customs—Move to Penanggungan—Petroleum and paraffin matches— 
 Penanggungan — Great trees— Interesting plants and animals — The 
 Siamang—Move to Terratas—Ascent of the Tengamus Mountain—Its 
 flora and fauna—Return to Penanggungan and to Batavia. 
 
 
 
 
 
 In the middle of August I moved my camp north-westwards 
 to the village of Penanggungan towards the high peak of 
 the Tengamus at the top of the Semangka Bay. I followed a 
 native forest path, reported to be good, but which turned out 
 to be an execrable tunnel through a grove of low rattan-palms, 
 whose delicate but unbreakable tendrils, hanging down on all 
 sides, studded with the sharpest and most unrelenting hooks, 
 were ever suddenly fetching me up by a lasso round my neck’ 
 or body from which no amount of ill-natured tugging or pulling 
 would avail to relieve me, and from whose thorny grapnels I 
 could release myself only by yielding, and stepping calmly 
 backwards. Here an immense tree-trunk, six or seven feet in 
 diameter, lay athwart the path; there a gigantic mud bath, 
 the wallowing hole of a herd of elephants, in which my porters 
 sank to the waist and sometimes to the armpits. 
 
 On the way I netted a large Ornithoptera (0. amphrysus), 
 and the first known female of Amesta juvenis, a day-flying 
 moth which mimics Trepsichrois mulciber, while by the margin 
 of a small stream I caught Leptocireus virescens, which derives 
 protection from mimicking the habits and the appearance of 
 a dragon-fly, in a crowd of which it is often to be found. 
 Tn form it reminded me of the European genus Nemoptera. It 
 flits over the top of the water fluttering its tails, jerking up and 
 down just as dragon-flies do when flicking the water with the 
 
140 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 tip of their abdomens. When it settles on the ground, it is 
 difficult to see, as it vibrates in constant motion its tail and 
 wings, so that a mere haze, as it were, exists where it rests. 
 
 Emerging from this forest, I found myself in Tiohmomon, 
 a typical Lampong village, in a district which had been in- 
 habited for many generations. The houses were all substan- 
 tially built of planks, with, in many cases, carved decorations 
 on the cross beams, and painted designs on the intermediate 
 panels. 
 
 The Balai is the most—we might almost say the only— 
 peculiar and characteristic institution of the Lampongers. It 
 is always the largest and most prominent edifice in the village, 
 situated apart from all others, and in the most central position. 
 It stands eight or ten feet from the ground, on massive pillars 
 formed of great tree-stems, and is built generally of planks 
 of wood, or of bamboo wicker-work. It is evident that 
 much labour has been bestowed on it, for, as a rule, it indi- 
 cates the highest available workmanship, as it is the result of 
 the combined labour of the whole community. It is lofty, 
 and roofed either with thatch of grass or rattan-palm leaves, 
 or covered with wood or bamboo “slates,” according to the 
 fashion of roofing in vogue in the village. It is fairly well 
 lighted, but the light, as a rule, is admitted only by the 
 latticed gables, and by long slits and small windows a few 
 feet above the level of the floor, more suitable, of course, 
 to the squatting native than to a Kuropean sitting on a chair. 
 ‘T'wo doors, reached by strong bamboo ladders, or well-made 
 wooden stairs, and situated one at each end of the building, 
 either in the gables or in the sides, afford ingress and egress. 
 At one end within a small inclosure is a cooking place—a 
 deep layer of earth on which the fire rests. 
 
 The Balai is in reality the town-hall of the Lamponger. It 
 is the common property of every man, woman, and child in 
 the village. In Mahomedan lands a man’s house is sacred ; 
 for a man rarely enters the dwelling of his neighbour, and never 
 without the head of the house ; but the Balai is the assembly- 
 room—the meeting place for all. Its doors stand ever open. 
 All business is transacted under its roof; all bitjaras (consul- 
 tations and discussions) are held there. At whatever hour 
 one enters, its most characteristic occupants, lazy, sleeping 
 
IN SUMATRA. 141 
 villagers, are to be seen dotted over its floor. During the 
 day, the orang-jaga, or watchman, who occupies an open guard- 
 room during the night, makes the Balai his watch-tower. 
 All travellers passing through the village are free to its shade 
 and shelter. The orang-bedagang, or itinerant pedlar, finds 
 at once a free lodging, a market-place for his goods, and an 
 eager crowd to listen to the news he brings. Here all civic 
 feasts and festive gatherings are held. Here they enjoy the 
 pleasures of the dance for unbroken days and nights together. 
 This being truthfully explained, means that the seated youths 
 behold with delighted eyes the peculiar and monotonous 
 posture figures, supposed to be elegant and most bewitching, 
 of the ornament-bedizened maidens performing two and two 
 at a time to the clanging and clamour of gong and drum, and 
 that the maidens in their turn have the privilege of gazing 
 on their future lords going through the same performance. 
 Under its roof, their love is consummated in the wedding 
 and attendant ceremonies. Here, before a crowded audience, 
 they are invested with their equivalent knighthoods and peer- 
 ages; and here, in many villages, they are at last laid out, 
 and pass from it to the grave. Around the Balai, therefore, 
 centres, as 1t were, the whole life of a Lampong village. 
 
 The Lampongers claim to be descended from the Malays of 
 Menangkabau (a district in the Padang region of Sumatra’s 
 West coast), where it is believed the first conquerors of the 
 island established their kingdom, whence they spread to the 
 northern central portion, and thence along the west and southern 
 coasts, of what is now the Lampong Residency, at first, slowly 
 by families and small communities, which agglomerated into 
 separate margas with their chiefs. 
 
 The dialect spoken in the Lampongs “appears to be an 
 original tongue, with one-third of its words of unknown origin.” * 
 I am doubtful how far this will be borne out by its closer 
 study. It contains a very large number of corrupted Malay 
 and Sundanese words; but the written symbols are pecu- 
 liar to Sumatra. In Java, where Malay (met with in the 
 coast towns), Sundanese (spoken only in the west of Java 
 and supposed to be a distinct language), and Javanese are 
 the spoken languages, Arabic is employed for expressing 
 
 * Stanford’s Compendium of Geography, Australasia, Appendix. 
 
142 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 in writing both Malay and Sundanese, and the beautiful, 
 interesting well-known Javan symbols for its own language. 
 The Lampong characters have no resemblance to either of 
 them, but Mr. Keane holds that they are based on the Devana- 
 gari, as he affirms the Javanese to be also. ‘The letters of 
 which a specimen is given on the opposite page are mostly 
 either horizontal lines, or lines meeting each other at acute - 
 angles, with marks and dots above and below the line, to form 
 nineteen characters, representing the sounds ka, ga, gna, pa, ba, 
 ma, ta, da, na, tya, dya, nya, ya, a, la, ra, sa, wa, cha (rough). 
 Marks and hooks above and below the letters are used to 
 indicate the vowel sounds and the addition of m and ng, and 
 a sign to indicate the dropping of the final vocable, so as to 
 express the consonant, as “Ka tanda mat” (“dead sign”) in- 
 dicates K. At first, with only a native teacher, scarcely half 
 of whose discourse I could comprehend, the acquisition of the 
 language seemed very difficult; but, having the key given, it 
 was far easier to acquire than it looked. 
 
 The margas are the old native districts (one might almost 
 call them regencies) into which the country was originally 
 divided, each owning its own independence. -The Govern- 
 ment, in parcelling out the country for administrative pur- 
 poses, has retained as much as possible the boundaries of the 
 marga intact, as each had often its own peculiar customs, to 
 which the people adhere with hereditary tenacity. In the old 
 days each marga, and possibly each kampong (village) had a 
 copy of its oondang-oondang, or laws, written on bamboo-stems, 
 or on lontar (Borassus) palm leaves, which were preserved 
 as heirlooms from generation to generation, till eaten up by a 
 small boring beetle—which can in a very short time reduce the 
 stoutest bamboo to powder if it is not looked after—or till 
 destroyed in the fires by which every village has been periodi- 
 cally wiped out, when it would be reinscribed from the memory 
 of some old villager, and again transmitted. In very rare cases 
 only would the bamboo record be applied to, for in every vil- 
 lage there was always some one, as now, who knew its con- 
 tents with perfect accuracy, to whom it had been taught when 
 a child by his father, as he in like manner had been taught by 
 his; so that when a case arose in which the adat (custom) was 
 in question, recourse would be had to the living repository, as 
 
‘SPL and aon or, ‘HONVWOU NELLIUM-TAILVN V WOUd DOVA AALVULSATIL NV : SUALOVUVHO DNOMKVT 
 
 ot 
 TT IE ey 
 
 te 
 
 iene mS 
 
 
 
+ 
 
 * 
 7 
 
 
 
IN SUMATRA. 145 
 
 
 
 the quickest means of settling the point; for their reading, like 
 their act of inscribing, was, even as now, a painfully slow and 
 difficult affair to the most learned. Now-a-days these interest- 
 ing relics are very rare, and almost impossible to procure. 
 
 Each marga, as a rule, has in it several villages, each with a 
 chief. Each village community is a collection of families, 
 either related or not to each other by the ties of blood—con- 
 sisting of the original family or nucleus of the village and 
 those descended from it, and of the companies of immigrants 
 who have come from different places, and at different times, 
 with their descendants. Hach of these companies, or families, 
 was called a suku, and each selected one of their number to 
 represent them in all matters affecting their interests. So 
 then a village community consisted, and still more or less 
 completely consists, of several sukus, each with its head, all 
 subject to the village chief, who would, in the first instance, 
 be the representative of the first swkw or nucleus of the village, 
 and thereafter, if that representative left no heirs, the person 
 on whom the choice of the sukus might fall. <A trivial cause 
 of dispute in a suku would be brought before the chief 
 of the suku, associated with some of its old men from whom 
 an appeal might lie to the head of the village with one or 
 more of the Kapala sukus. A case in which more than 
 one sukw was concerned would come before the village chief, 
 sitting with the uninterested Kapala sukus. An appeal from 
 this village court might be made to the chief of the marga, 
 possibly along with the village chiefs of the marga, beyond 
 which, of course, it could not in past days go. ‘This court 
 also exercised jurisdiction in cases of inter-village disputes. A 
 marga was therefore a little independent principality, or rather 
 clan, whose boundaries were the limits claimed by the first 
 immigrants to the place; and seems to have been at first ruled 
 by him among the settlers who was most influential or of the 
 closest blood relationship with the chiefs or princes of Menang- 
 kabau giving them the right to the title of Penyimbang. 
 
 The highest Penyimbang within the boundaries ruled over 
 the marga; then in each village the highest ranked was chief of 
 the village, and the next after him became chiefs of the village 
 sections. ‘The Penyimbang need not of necessity become chief 
 of this village or marga; he could delegate his authority to 
 
144 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 
 
 another, but still his voice, in all matters where he chose to 
 exercise it, had pre-eminence. The Penyimbangs constituted 
 a hereditary nobility, which exercised great influence; and if 
 I have understood the narratives of those old chiels with whom 
 { have talked, they were nearly all of equal rank. No one could 
 be raised de novo to the honour of a Penyimbang without the 
 consent of all the Penyimbangs in his marga. When this was 
 obtained he was called out, by the Marga chief, amid the acela- 
 mations of the people convened in full assembly in the Balai of 
 the capital of the marga, before whom the services entitling him 
 to the honour and showing him to be a “ fit and proper” person 
 to be so endued were proclaimed, to take his place on the raised 
 benches occupied by the nobility. The new peer was then 
 bound to kill in honour of the occasion, a number of buffaloes, 
 according to the degree of his rank, sometimes as many as 
 ninety, and give a great feast, as well as bestow a present 
 on each of his brother Penyimbangs. 
 
 As margas increased in number, so their boundaries became 
 eternal subjects of dispute, referred as a rule to the arbitra- 
 ment of war. Now, as the Sunda Strait alone separated the 
 south eastern extremity of Sumatra from Bantam (which, until 
 abolished by the Dutch Government in 1811, was a flourishing 
 kingdom under powerful Sultans), a rich trade in rice, pepper, 
 and pottery, at length sprang up between the Bantamese 
 traders and the Lampongers. Whether the former intro- 
 duced the cultivation of pepper into the Lampongs, or 
 found these settlers already acquainted with the culture, 
 is doubtful; but it is certain that at an early date rich spice 
 gardens flourished in southern Sumatra. very year the 
 Sultan sent across a fine prau laden with all sorts of earthen- 
 ware, an art then unknown to the Lampongers, with a letter 
 full of compliments and good wishes, which was publicly read 
 on a day when all the Penyimbangs had assembled, to which 
 they returned a complimentary reply with gifts of pepper 
 and elephants’ tusks; so trade gradually increased, and with 
 it the power and influence of the Sultan, whose aid in these 
 intermargal disputes, either by mediation or more practi- 
 cally, was often besought. Grateful chiefs sent in return 
 rich presents of ivory and pepper, with acknowledgments 
 of his influence, till gradually the Sultan’s protection was 
 
IN SUMATRA. 145 
 
 extended over the greater part of the Lampongs in return 
 for a yearly tribute. Special services were acknowledged by 
 the bestowal of titles and dignities. These honours and ranks 
 were hereditary, and were at first conferred directly by the 
 Sultan; but afterwards they could be purchased, with the 
 assent of the other peers of the marga, from a_ hereditary 
 Right-holder, by such as were of faultless “name and fame.” 
 A pangkat, or ‘title, was just as dear to the heart of a Lam- 
 ponger as now to his European brother, and assiduously did 
 he labour to hoard up the necessary sum, and cultivate by 
 presents the good will of the Penyimbangs, in order that he 
 might some day have the pride of occupying one of the seats 
 of honour at marriage feasts and on gala days, almost the 
 only occasions on which the happy possessor of a pangkat 
 could be distinguished from his fellows. 
 
 ‘The Order of the Pepadon was the highest conferred by the 
 Sultan. The Pepadon was a great wooden chair, with a high 
 back richly carved, and stood in the Balai. The honour 
 consisted in occupying this seat at feasts and high occasions 
 before the assembled marga, while the Penyimbangs of lesser 
 rank occupied lower seats to right and left. On grand days 
 the Pepadon was often overlaid with gold and silver plates, 
 lent for the occasion by the people of the marga. On his 
 first installation to the Order the new noble was drawn on a 
 wooden car from his house to the Balai, and if he were of old 
 family it was shaded by a yellow or white canopy. 
 
 If within a marga a person be found murdered, and the 
 murderer cannot be discovered, the whole marga must pay to 
 the relatives a sum of money according to his rank, as an 
 expiation. On this account all travellers are saluted with, 
 «“ Where to, master?” and “ Where from, master?” “ Where 
 did you spend last night?” that there may be some clue as to 
 his whereabouts should he go a-missing; and of the people 
 among whom he was last seen alive, in order, if possible, 
 to saddle some village with the crime. 
 
 The Order of the Pepadon gave the possessor: and his 
 relatives the right, if murdered, to a higher sum of blood- 
 money than any one else. Not only this; for his daughters 
 he could demand a sum (djudjur) from the man claiming her 
 hand four times as great as from a man who had no rank. 
 
 L 
 
146 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 The next lower rank consisted in the privilege of sitting 
 in the Balai on state occasions against a wooden pillar, called 
 the Sesako. It entitled the relatives of its possessor to a sum 
 of blood-money less only than could be demanded by those of 
 members of the Order of the Pepadon, and a like proportionate 
 djudjur for his daughter’s hand. Should he be afterwards 
 elevated to the rank of the Pepadon, the Sesako was nailed 
 to the back of the Pepadon. 
 
 The Lawang Koree, or “honour-door,” the third rank, was 
 a gateway of carved wood or stone which was erected near to 
 the dwelling of the holder. 
 
 On women of ancient family and of high rank certain 
 honours were also bestowed. They were entitled to be borne 
 to the Balai on great occasions on a state car; but the right to 
 be carried with the foot resting on the body of a man as a 
 footstool belonged to the most high-born alone. Women of 
 less distinguished birth could come walking on variously 
 adorned mats spread before them by their slaves. 
 
 In a full assembly of the marga on a high occasion, the 
 foremost places are occupied by the Penyimbangs of various 
 orders. In a line fronting the Penyimbangs sit all the 
 budjangs, or unmarried youths, facing a row of young 
 maidens. The sight is a gay one. All are in their best 
 attire, the general crowd in whatever garments please their 
 fancy most, but generally of the gayest colours of coats and 
 headcloths, and sarongs suspended by large silver- and 
 gold-buckled belts, with ivory- and gold-handled krisses 
 stuck in the waist; the women—for those that stand round 
 have all been married—more sombrely, wearing the matri- 
 monial symbol, the sulung, a necklet of massive gold or 
 silver rings strung immovably, except for a little piece in 
 front, on a cylinder of the same metal, and the thick 
 stud-like earrings, the only ornaments that their severe laws 
 permit to those who have known the bonds of wedlock. Here 
 and there among the crowd a crownless boat-shaped hat, made 
 of cardboard, and bound round with a gold plate, indicates that 
 its wearer is a childless wife. The young unmarried men are 
 simply attired in a sarong of a bright colour, supported by a 
 belt fastened by a buckle of greater or less value according to 
 his rank, with the corresponding number of krisses stuck in it, 
 
IN SUMATRA. 147 
 
 
 
 and with a headcloth tied about his temples in ihe fashion of 
 his district ; but from the waist upwards naked. 
 
 The centre of attraction is the long line of maidenhood, 
 elittering in silver and gold of native workmanship. The 
 hair of each girl, neatly arranged and odoriferous from abun- 
 dance of cocoa-nut and cajeput oil, is tied in a knot behind 
 and transfixed by a high-backed comb overlaid with gold 
 plates ; her head is crowned with a coronet (séggar) of gold, of 
 form and magnificence according to her pangkat; a shawl 
 worn sash-wise hangs from the shoulder to the ground, while 
 from above the middle hangs a rich sarong, or petticoat, of 
 home-grown and spun silk, interwoven with gold thread, and 
 decorated with hundreds of small coins of the Dutch mint, 
 which jingle pleasingly as she dances. Above this the body is 
 eirt with a silk slendang, half concealing the breasts. The 
 arms, shoulders, and chest are bare, except for the nume- 
 rous gold or silver collars and necklets and bracelets, of 
 patterns peculiar to her marga, with which she is loaded. 
 Often these collars are entirely composed of the large dollar 
 pieces of Spain, Holland, and Mexico, and of English half- 
 crowns. Of the highest-born maidens, the arms from the 
 wrist to the elbow are almost concealed by the display of pure 
 “barbaric gold,’ for they may wear as many bracelets as 
 they choose; while their sisters less fortunate in the matter 
 of blood and rank must conform to the regulation number cor- 
 responding to their degree. The breast is overlaid with 
 crescent-shaped gold plates, suspended in tiers; the waist is 
 encircled by a belt of one of the precious metals secured by an 
 elaborately-carved buckle of the same material. The rather 
 bony fingers are encircled with many rings, and even the 
 nails are lengthened by additions of silver into talon-like 
 claws; so that altogether the Lampong maiden presents a 
 dlazzling appearance in the dim uncertain light of a lamplit 
 Balai. The cost of such a costume represents no mean sum ; 
 it is not uncommon for a girl to have as much as £100 worth 
 of ornaments about her person at a festival. 
 
 When all is ready, the ever monotonous music commences, 
 and the Master of the Ceremonies, whose place is between the 
 two lines, at a signal from the chief calls—and his directions 
 must be implicitly obeyed—on two of the maidens to dance. 
 
 fan, 
 
148 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 His office is both a delicate and a difficult one. He must 
 himself be of good position in the community, and be more 
 or less a general favourite; but especially must he be 
 intimately acquainted with the social position and rank of 
 all present ; for should he unwittingly call on two maidens or 
 two youths of different ranks to dance together he will have 
 committed a mistake which has many a time turned the 
 festival into a fight, for the parents or the relatives of the 
 higher-ranked of the dancers, feeling themselves insulted, 
 have suddenly revenged themselves by amok—that mode of 
 retribution which is to them the swiftest and most gratifying ; 
 the first victim being generally the unfortunate Master of 
 the Ceremonies himself. 
 
 The daughter of a low Penyimbang used to have the right 
 to have one girl attendant behind her, with a young man to hold 
 a white umbrella over her head; but a maiden of the highest 
 rank was entitled to as many as six attendants, and to be shaded 
 by a silk umbrella, gaily ornamented with flowers and gold-leaf, 
 which, when she was not dancing, lay folded in front of her, by 
 the side of a cushion on which her rank entitled her to place 
 her fans. The daughters of villagers without pangkat danced 
 in the best they could afford, but unattended and unshaded. 
 
 The high-born youth was distinguished by the number 
 and gorgeousness of his krisses, and further by the number 
 of youths prostrate on the ground before him, on whom he 
 placed his foot as a sign of his authority. These customs 
 have now been greatly modified, as the attendants on the high 
 born were in former days their slaves (and slavery has been 
 for many years abolished by the Government), and where they 
 now appear they are paid servants, or relatives or friends who 
 have volunteered to take for the occasion the place of the 
 slaves of former days. 
 
 White was the sign of nobility, which alone those of high 
 pangkat could use, all others being obliged to wear cloth of 
 a dark colour. Blue remains even now when all restrictions 
 have been removed by law, the commonest colour of garments 
 worn by the people; but even yet the sight of white in one of 
 low rank incites envy or enmity. The Magistrate of one of 
 the districts informed me of a case he had shortly had before 
 him, in which the complainant had the white umbrella he was 
 
IN SUMATRA. 149 
 
 
 
 carrying snatched from him and broken before his face. The 
 accused pleaded, an excuse which he thought sufficient, that 
 his neighbour had no right to an umbrella of that colour, 
 as he was a man of no pangkat. liven in their houses, till 
 recent times, only chiefs had the right to sleep on a mattress, 
 or have it protected by curtains, every one else being obliged 
 to sleep on a mat laid on the floor. 
 
 The performers called on by the Master of the Ceremonies 
 come forward and seating themselves in the open space, perform 
 towards the chiefs and the assembled company with graceful 
 respect the sembah, a form of obeisance made by placing the 
 hands together and bringing them to the forehead at the mo- 
 ment of inclining the head. Each maiden has a fan in both 
 hands, which she holds by fixing them before and behind alter- 
 nate fingers, and the performance, which consists in posturing 
 the arms and hands, and but little in the movement of the 
 feet which really scarcely stir out of the spot, can hardly be 
 denominated dancing. ‘The various attitudes assumed are few 
 and not very elegant, and, after being repeated to all sides, 
 they are ended by the danseuse gradually sinking down to the 
 sitting position, sembahing to the company, and resuming her 
 seat among her fellows, when her place is taken by any two 
 youths whom the Ceremony-Master may call on, who go through 
 much the same performance in a less elegant manner. Inter- 
 vals in the dancing are filled up by the singing of love songs 
 by the young men, which are responded to by the maidens, 
 often in extempore verses, which are generally scratched 
 with needles on pieces of bamboo, and passed to their sweet- 
 hearts through the hands of the Master of the Ceremonies to 
 be preserved by them as valuable keepsakes. Such festivals 
 mostly last through a whole night; but on great occasions 
 often for several days and nights together. 
 
 When the festival lasts several days the forenoons are given 
 up to feasting, the early afternoons to sleep and talk, and 
 during the latter part the youth engage in the middle of the 
 village square in'a game of ball called “simpak,’ in which 
 they vie with each other before the maidens, as well as the 
 general public—who congregate in the shade of the eaves of 
 the surrounding houses as spectators and admirers—in the 
 display of the proficiency and elegance of their movements. 
 
150 A NATUARLIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 The game consists in the young men, who dispose themselves 
 in circles of as many as twenty, keeping in the air a large 
 hollow sphere, made of rattan cords neatly twisted together, 
 by kicking it only with the side of the foot as it descends— 
 touching with any other part of the body being out of rule. 
 In dealing the kick, the limb is swung out with great vigour 
 almost perpendicularly, while the body is thrown back nearly 
 to the horizontal position, and the beauty of the play consists, 
 besides keeping the ball continually in the air from player to 
 player, in the elegant leap with which the body is brought 
 back to the erect posture without the player changing his 
 foot-ground; and the more elegant these movements—and 
 really very elegant they are—the greater favour and applause 
 the player wins among his female spectators. 
 
 On tiring of this, various couples engage in a species of 
 dance—the relic of a war dance—full of spirited action, and of 
 a character quite different from that to which the nights are 
 devoted. 
 
 When in the small hours of the morning the finale of such 
 a festival takes place, the maidens are escorted home by the 
 young men, who flank their wards, each bearing a great flaming 
 torch, which now reflected in the water of some wide stream 
 which must be crossed, now blinking through the trees of some 
 forest-skirted path produces a most pleasing effect as the 
 various parties wend their different ways from the village. 
 
 Their homegoings end—in what land do they not ?—in the 
 old tale. He who has long spent his evenings by the rice 
 block—a large heavy log of wood, with a conical hole in it, in 
 which the rice corns are husked by being stamped by a long 
 pole—admiring, as well as assisting, the maiden of his choice 
 in her work, (which displays more than any other employment 
 the grace and beauty of the female figure,) is at length 
 rewarded. The sign of engagement is often a ring, but more 
 generally the youth and the maiden exchange some portion 
 of their garments. ‘ 
 
 As a rule the engagement is kept secret from the parents 
 ill near the time when the youth desires to marry. When 
 he goes to the parents of the girl his real difficulties begin. 
 A daughter is so much property, and cannot be lightly 
 allowed to leave her father’s roof without fetching an equiva- 
 
IN SUMATRA. 151 
 
 
 
 lent. ‘The Government has now enacted that all marriages 
 shall be without let or consideration, between ‘him who will 
 with her who will,’ but the system of djudjur (or price to 
 be paid for a wife), sanctified by generations of custom, it 
 is almost impossible to prevent, as when a fair sum is not 
 paid, the girl’s father can always raise insurmountable diffi- 
 culties, so that, in fact, the djudjur is almost invariably paid, 
 and is in amount according to the status of the youth, and 
 of the parents of the bride. When this has been (sub rosa, of 
 course) satisfactorily arranged, the parents of the youth and 
 of the girl must appear before the chief of the village (if they 
 belong to the same village, or to both chiefs if the parties 
 belong to different villages) to give official information that 
 their children wish to marry. This is the hatrangan (trang, 1s 
 clear) of the affair; it is, in fact, the publication of the banns. 
 After this has taken place, it is legal for the parents to receive 
 a small fixed gift (marriage gold, as it is called), but any 
 demand for a greater sum is penal. 
 
 The system of djudjur has acted, and still acts, very detri- 
 mentally on the population, for, as a rule, the sum demanded 
 by a father for his daughter’s hand is so great that many 
 young men cannot afford to marry ; and as children born out of 
 wedlock are from of old considered to be a stigma on the village, 
 the people have increased but littlein number. Of course if a 
 youth should complain to the magistrate that he cannot marry 
 the girl of his choice on account of the large sum demanded 
 by her father, the magistrate would at once interfere; but it is 
 very rare that any complaint is made, the youth preferring to 
 pay the djudjur, beaten down to the lowest figure possible. 
 
 If, however, the youth chooses he may marry the girl in the 
 manner known as “ambil anak ” (literally, “taking a child”), 
 in which case the father of the girl receives the husband into 
 his house as one of his children, bound to labour in her place 
 for him absolutely. 
 
 In effect, by this form of marriage, the husband becomes the 
 slave of his wife; he is bound to do all that she may demand, 
 and, should he rue his bargain and obtain a divorce, the 
 children of the union remain with her, and he goes out as he 
 came into the house—portionless. It always remains open to 
 him, however, should he fall heir to any property, to pay the 
 
152 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 djudjur and remove his wife to a home of his own. If a man 
 have a larger family of daughters than of sons, it is very 
 customary for the eldest son to bring a wife to his father’s 
 house, but for the rest of the sons to go to the houses of their 
 mothers-in-law, and for the daughters either to bring their 
 husbands to their mother’s house also, in order that her 
 parents may reap the benefit of their labour, or to ne 
 to their husbands’ homes. Where a man’s fa child is 
 daughter, marriage is almost always by “ ambil anak.” 
 
 With the richer members of the community it is a matter of 
 pride to pay djudjur for their wives. When no agreement 
 can be come to about the djudjur between the youth and the 
 parents of the girl, the two often elope together to the man’s 
 village (if they belong to different villages, or to another 
 village if they be of the same village), in which she is placed 
 in the house of his father, but, if she is of higher rank than 
 himself, in the house of the head of the village. The father of 
 the girl pursues with an armed following, and, being met at 
 the entrance of the village by a like force, a fight (nowadays 
 a sham fight) takes place in front of the Balai, in which the 
 father of the maiden allows himself to be overcome, whereupon 
 an adjournment is made within the building, and matters 
 are amicably settled, the day ending with football, dancing, 
 cock-fighting, and festivities. Their marriage ceremony fol- 
 lows the Mahomedan rites. 
 
 From Tiohmomon I continued my way to Penanggungun, 
 I was greatly surprised to see, even in the smallest villages, 
 the universal use of two articles of western civilisation— 
 petroleum oil and paraffin matches. There was scarcely a 
 dwelling in a village of even eight to ten houses in this 
 out-of-the-way corner of the world in which this oil was 
 not the illuminating medium; if there was not in the 
 house another article of western origin, there was a lamp, | 
 often of a most elegant and costly pattern, of gilt brass, and 
 complete with wheel and pulley apparatus. I daily saw 
 packhorses laden with De Voe’s well-known boxes passing 
 through the villages to more distant places, Nearly every 
 native, too, produces from a fold of his cotton kilt, or his head- 
 cloth, when he wants “ fire,” one of the little yellow-papered 
 chip boxes, with “Patent paraftinerade sakerhets tandstikor 
 
IN SUMATRA. 153 
 
 utan svafvel och fosfor,’ which arrive in these parts from 
 Sweden—if not also from the “ fabriks” of swindling China- 
 men in Singapore—by the hundred thousand. 
 
 There is scarcely a western article but the Chinamen have 
 introduced its counterfeit here, sometimes with such wonder- 
 ful ingenuity that, even when anathematising them, one cannot 
 help feeling a sort of respect for their perseverance and assi- 
 duity even in evil doing. This broad dissemination of tiand- 
 stickors has driven into oblivion the savage’s picturesque 
 friction block. He strikes his match on the box and lights 
 his cigarette at the flame, guarding it from wind between his 
 half-closed hands, as if he were a native of the Isles of the 
 Blest.- Though one is certainly pleased enough to have those 
 commodities ready to one’s hand, yet it is decidedly disap- 
 pointing not to be able to outrun civilisation ; one would fain 
 see “some new thing,’ some strange artifice or curious custom. 
 To the ethnographical student, the latest Paris designs in 
 the furniture of a Polynesian or New Guinean hut must be 
 extremely interesting and edifying ! 
 
 Penanggungan was quite an embryo village in the middle 
 of a fresh clearing in a piece of very ancient forest, and conse- 
 quently a rich botanical hunting-ground. In its near vicinity 
 grew one of the grandest Urostigma trees I have ever seen ; 
 its broad buttresses and sturdy supporters, among which a 
 wanderer might almost lose himself, looking like the pillars 
 of some ancient Moorish temple. It was thick in fruit, 
 and harboured legions of skipping squirrels, great apes, and 
 troops of monkeys, which, to the eye surveying them from 
 below, looked like pigmies flitting about amid its branches. 
 Immense flocks of the large fruit-pigeons, and of the smaller 
 members of that numerous and beautiful family, crowded to 
 this rendezvous, their wings keeping up a constant whirring 
 in the air by their coming and going; scores of the great 
 hornbill (Buceros galeatus) with their five-feet expanse of 
 wing, and myriads of smaller birds whose varied calls and 
 notes alone indicated their presence, flocked from far and near 
 to this inexhaustible storehouse (and its produce could not 
 be less than tens of thousands of bushels ot figs), and yet the 
 vast assemblage but sparsely peopled this single magnificent 
 specimen of the vegetable kingdom. 
 
154 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Here also I gathered a splendid orchid (Galeola sp.) grow- 
 ing on damp rotting tree-trunks, climbing over the low forest, 
 singular in producing no foliage but putting forth a stem pro- 
 fusely flowering at short nodes for forty feet in length, with 
 blossoms of a rich yellow colour. In the depths of the forest 
 I found the large Raffiesia arnoldi and Hasselt, and the 
 smaller but handsomer Brugmansia Lowi. 
 
 On the giant Urostigma I shot several specimens of 
 Bucerotidx, the white-crested Hydrocisa albirostris, and the 
 great hornbill (Buceros galeatus), whose heavy scarlet hammer- 
 fronted casque, which it uses to beat with far-resounding 
 thuds the branches of the trees, draws upon it a severe perse- 
 cution, as in Palembang each head commands a large price, 
 for out of its dense white ivory-like consolidated horn, are 
 manufactured studs and sleeve-links of great beauty. The 
 casque in most species of this family is a cancellated structure 
 permeated by blood-vessels so teased out as to give it great 
 lightness, that it is difficult to understand why in this 
 species it should be so solid and heavy ; yet, notwithstanding, 
 no bird could flit about more lightly in the tree-tops, or 
 gather its food more agilely. In a longitudinal section of the 
 head and casque of this bird, the thick horny hammering por- 
 tion, as well seen in the figure opposite, has behind it a layer of 
 dense bone to which osseous bars radiate towards the occipital 
 condyle, where the head joins with the neck, and pass above 
 and around the brain cavity, to protect it in a most beautiful 
 way from shock. The brain cavity is thus lodged below the 
 line of shock, and is besides separated from the casque by — 
 padding in the shape of a cartilaginous joint. To Professor 
 Flower I am indebted for directing my attention to the 
 beautiful section in the Museum of the Royal College of 
 Surgeons sketched here, whose structure had indeed led him 
 to infer, before he knew the fact, that the bird must use its 
 head as a hammering instrument. 
 
 In a neighbouring stream, flitting from stone to stone, I 
 obtained the lively Hydrocichla ignicapillius, a bird in habit 
 and colour closely resembling the true wagtails; and on its 
 banks the horned frogs (Megalophrys nasuta) were abundant, 
 whose anvil-like clinking “ kang-kang”’ filled the air in the 
 evenings; but, in simulating so closely the dead leaves among 
 
IN SUMATRA. 199 
 which they lay, it required the closest search to find them. 
 Lying flat on the ground, their sharp acute horns mimicked 
 the points of leaves, from which lines radiated representing 
 crossing and overlapping margins, while dark-brown spots and 
 
 
 
 HEAD OF BUCEROS, AND SECTION OF ITS CRANIUM. 
 
 markings distributed over their bodies could not be told from 
 the blotches and fungoid growths of decaying vegetation. In 
 coitu the male embraces the female round the lumbar region. 
 On shooting a Siamang in our high Urostigma preserve, 
 my hunter found, on picking it up, a young one clasped in 
 
156 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 its embrace, to all appearance dead also. Both of them he 
 brought home slung on a pole. Cutting their thongs, he threw 
 them down on the verandah and went off again. Being 
 very busy, I had taken no notice of them till a movement 
 caused me to look up, when I saw the young ape quietly 
 making tracks for the stairway; but I quickly secured him, 
 despite his screams and vigorous attempts to bite. It had 
 been only stunned by a pellet on the head, and had no bones 
 broken. In a very short time it tamed down and became 
 a most delightful companion. Its expression of countenance 
 was most intelligent, and at times almost human; but in 
 
 captivity it often wore a sad and dejected aspect, which quite — 
 
 disappeared in its excited moods. With what elegance and 
 gentleness it used to take what was offered it with its delicate 
 taper fingers, which, like its head, are more anthropoid (except 
 for their hairiness) than any other ape’s! It would never 
 put its lips to a vessel to drink, but invariably lifted the water 
 to its mouth by dipping in its half-closed hand and awkwardly 
 licking the drops from its knuckles. The gentle and caressing 
 way in which it would clasp me round the neck with its long 
 arms, laying its head on my chest, uttering a satisfied crooning 
 sound, was most engaging. Hvery evening it used to make 
 with me a tour round the village square, with its hand on 
 my arm, enjoying the walk apparently as much as I did. 
 It was a most curious and ludicrous sight to see it erect on its 
 somewhat bandy legs, hurrying along in the most frantic haste, 
 
 as if to keep its head from outrunning its feet, with its long ~ 
 free arm see-sawing in a most odd way over his head to. 
 
 balance itself. 
 
 That they can leap the great distances from tree to tree 
 ascribed to them is, | think, incorrect; for during the felling 
 of the forest near the village, when a little colony of Siamangs 
 got cut off from the branches of the nearest trees by some 
 thirty feet only, they scampered up and down the tree 
 howling in the most abject terror at every stroke of the axe, 
 yet without venturing to leap the intervening space, and 
 even when it was falling they did not attempt to save 
 themselves by springing to the ground, but perished in the 
 erash of the tree. ‘The Siamang and the Ongka (Hyalobates 
 varregatus), an allied but smaller ape, are the most interesting 
 
IN SUMATRA. 157 
 
 of the Quadramana to be met with in this region, the Orang- 
 utan not being found so far in the south. 
 
 Continuing my journey, skirting round an elbow of Mt. 
 Tengamus, I descended on the village of Terratas, looking 
 down on the Bay of Semangka with its mountainous shores, 
 and on the peaked summit of the island of Tabuang standing 
 out of the motionless water. In one of the little ravines I 
 gathered specimens of a singular climbing shrub (Lagenaria) 
 with immense semi-globular fruits over two feet seven inches 
 in circumference. ‘Though in size so large they are quite 
 light, their seeds being small and winged with a broad 
 glancing membrane, thinner than the finest white tissue paper, 
 which serves as a float to disseminate them. 
 
 Two days later | made the ascent of the mountain, which, 
 owing to its fissured and chasmed character, was tedious 
 and difficult. Passing through a dense belt of wild bananas 
 and Zingiberiaceous plants, then a zone of disagreeable rattan- 
 palms, we broke into the deep, dark virgin forest, beneath 
 whose shade little or nothing was to be found growing, save 
 here and there an arum with a curious serpent-head-like 
 spathe, or in bright scarlet fruit; but at 38000 feet I was 
 gladdened by entering a belt of Ixora trees in one mass 
 of scarlet flowers, which, as the mountain rose abruptly, 
 had a fine effect viewed from above. In the damper regions 
 a little higher, the tree-trunks began to be more densely 
 clothed with orchids and ferns and climbers of all kinds; 
 and here and there, high in the angles of the branches, 
 scarlet Azaleas, which had crept down the mountain out of 
 the temperate heights as far as they might dare. At 5000 
 feet I gathered Horsfield’s Dipteris fern, which seems too 
 delicate to thrive well at home though it is a denizen of the 
 higher mountains of the tropics, accompanied by great fields 
 of a handsome species of bracken (Gleichenia glauca). At 
 5400 feet I halted for the night in a small hut that I had a 
 day or two previously had erected for our accommodation on 
 the verge of the more temperate region of the mountain, where 
 the trees became smaller and more stunted and were loaded 
 with lichens, mosses and feathery lycopods, and which turned 
 out to be the lowest limit of the pitcher-plants. 
 
 Few signs of animal life were observed, except the spoor of 
 
158 A NATURALIST’S. WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 the tapir, and high up the wallowing holes of the rhinoceros, 
 and footprints of the rare mountain antelope (Antilocarpa suma- 
 trana); the intermittent low booming note of the large fruit- 
 pigeons (Carpophaga badia) answering each other at roost, and 
 the chattering cries of flocks of Babblers (Garrulaa palliatus) 
 at play in the distant tree-tops, filled the woods, but they 
 never approached near enough to afford a chance of securing 
 them for specimens. 
 
 The night was very disagreeable, for our hut of branches 
 and leaves leaked freely, and the dense smoke which issued 
 from the wet wood fire, round which my boys crouched with 
 chattering teeth, was painful to eyes and throat. I have often 
 been surprised that the native, who, in the low grounds, goes 
 about and even sleeps in all weathers nearly naked, when I 
 with my European clothing have felt it quite chilly, almost 
 at once succumbs to the low temperature in the mountain 
 heights, and often actually dies before he can descend. A 
 few hours round a blazing fire after a hot jorum of coffee re- 
 invigorated them somewhat, and far into the night the woods 
 resounded to the weird monotonous chant of one of those 
 epics to which the Lamponger is never tired of listening, and 
 which his country is famed for, such as the Herculean exploits 
 of that great hero, Anak Dalom, who, miraculously escaping 
 from the interior of a bamboo, played the part of another 
 fEneas along these shores. At length, when one by one they 
 dropped off to doze, with their chins on their knees, their 
 heads buried in their sarongs, the intense silence of the forest 
 reigned, which even the moaning of the trees and the shrill 
 screaming of the cicads could not disturb. 
 
 Resuming our ascent, I found that at 5800 feet the Dipteris 
 horsfieldi increased in abundance, while lichens and mosses 
 padded every stone, tree-trunk, and lower branch with a thick 
 springy cushion of moss, among which everywhere the elegant 
 flagons of the Pitcher-plants were embedded or swayed grace- 
 fully from projecting twigs. Here also, among the moss and 
 on the fallen trees, a pretty Cymbidium, an epiphytic orchid 
 with dark-green crisp foliage, carpeted in profusion the hol- 
 lowsand knolls. The whole mountain above 5800 feet seemed 
 as if intentionally laid out in a gigantic rockery, up which the 
 path wound under moss-padded arches, and over boulders on 
 
IN SUMATRA. 159 
 
 
 
 which choice flowers had been planted; and as we ascended, 
 other species of orchids appeared, and shrubby Rhododendrons 
 with bright scarlet bells, (fh. tuliflorum and malayanum). 
 Nearer the top, the vegetation was mostly composed of lean- 
 armed and straggling myrtles and shrubs of the heather-bell 
 family. 
 
 Crowds of blue-bottle flies, a few bees, a couple of lepidop- 
 tera, and a small bird, with a Ploceus-like chirp, flitting about 
 among the tall reeds, represented life at 7200 feet. 
 
 Before descending, I stood to watch the gathering of the 
 clouds, which in’ the wet season begin toward midday to en- 
 velope the mountain-crests. Here and there white masses, like 
 puffs of steam, would suddenly appear over the wooded lands 
 below, principally over deep and naturally cold ravines, till the 
 whole landscape was dotted with little flocks of clouds, and 
 occasionally, even while I was looking, a white cloud would 
 suddenly condense along the margin of the sea, and, travelling 
 inward up the mountain side as a dense fog, which finally 
 descended in heavy rain just as I got back with my collection 
 to the rest-house of the previous evening. 
 
 Next morning I descended to the Balai at Terratas. After 
 several days of drying and packing up my collections, I started 
 back for our camp at Penanggungan, to prepare for my return 
 to Telok-betong on my way to Batavia. 
 
 The road at this season, now well on in the wet monsoon, 
 though of no great length, was excessively bad, so that the 
 transport of my bulky herbarium in a dry condition became an 
 anxious and difficult matter. Things went well till we reached 
 the steep climb to the top of the pass at 2000 feet—eight hours 
 of hard trudging, plunging and scrambling, with feet, legs, 
 and bodies bleeding from thousands of leeches. From the top 
 of the pass the road lay along a nearly level plateau for many 
 miles, through, virgin forest. Here the rain came down in 
 cold, heavy lines, flooded the path and enlivened the army of 
 leeches, which wriggled and stretched their green, bloodthirsty 
 necks from every leaf and blade of grass. The journey at 
 last became a dogged, cheerless trudge; I was past caring 
 for any change of weather; things were as bad as they could 
 be. Not a single word was uttered, except the intermittent 
 “ AIP-il-allahs ”’—whose very woe-begoneness made me smile in 
 
160 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 spite of the general misery of things—as the coolies changed 
 their carrying-poles from shoulder to shoulder. 
 
 At nightfall we reached a small cluster of huts, where we 
 camped thankfully for the night; and next day before noon 
 the terrible burden was deposited with thankfulness within 
 my old camp, where I found my Siamang in a sad state, 
 suffering from a suppurating finger and tooth. On lancing 
 the one, and extracting the other, the poor creature seemed 
 ereatly relieved, and I was delighted to watch it recover 
 without having contracted any antipathy, but rather the 
 reverse, for me. It accompanied me to Telok-betong, occu- 
 pying with great composure during the Jong journey a seat on 
 the top of one of my large packages, sheltering its head, to 
 the amusement of all whom we met, under a Chinese umbrella 
 which I had bought for it, and for which, after every halt, it 
 held out its hand in the most knowing way, screaming lustily 
 if the porters dared to move on before it had comfortably 
 arranged itself. 
 
 I took it with me to Batavia, where I gave it to a friend to 
 keep till a good opportunity should occur of sending it to 
 London. It managed, however, to escape, and unfortunately 
 took to the evil practice of hiding in the tops of the cocoa-nut 
 trees, and dropping down—in the most playful way, I have 
 not a doubt—its fruits on the passers by, till some irate half- 
 caste, who had narrowly escaped a broken head, unworthily 
 put an end to a most charming existence, to my deep regret. 
 
IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. 161 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY, 
 
 From Batavia to Anjer—Return to Telok-betong—Proceed to Beneawang— 
 Leave this for the Blalau region—Camp at Sanghi—Camp in the 
 forest—Phosphorescent display—Camp again in forest—Reach Bumi- 
 padang—Pass on to Batu-brah—Description of the village—Move on to 
 Kenali—Description of the village—Proceed to Hoodjoong—Description of 
 the village—Its tobacco industry—lts rice-fields—Planting and reaping— 
 Superstitions—Goitre—Fauna and flora of the Besagi volcano—Birds 
 and insects of the neighbourhood. 
 
 HAvine despatched my collections to England, in the middle 
 of December, I turned my steps once more to Sumatra, to 
 investigate the Highlands of the Bencoolen and Palembang 
 Residencies. Just then, because of a break in the cable 
 between Anjer and Telok-betong, a Government steamer was 
 plying to keep up communication between the two stations, 
 which the authorities kindly allowed me to make use of, if I 
 should choose to proceed by that way. Accordingly, a day’s 
 ride in a Kahar brought me to Anjer, where I renewed my 
 acquaintance with the beautiful view obtained from the 
 verandah of the little that was there. Alas! that I should 
 have to write was ; for the cruel Krakatoa wave of dawn of the 
 23rd August, 1883, washed away the village, and with it the 
 little inn and the kind Dutch landlady and her whole family. 
 Having crossed to Telok-betong, I proceeded after a short 
 delay across country to Beneawang at the top of the Semangka 
 Bay. As I was making for the slopes of the Besagi volcano, 
 the easiest route would have been to take steamer to Kroée, on 
 the west coast, and thence by road eastwards; but I was 
 desirous of seeing the scenery and the vegetation along the 
 valley of the Semangka river, which, running south through 
 the Sawah Mountains, falls into the sea at the top of its own 
 bay. Although it was reported to be a very rarely followed 
 route, I decided to attempt the journey ; but it proved a more 
 M 
 
162 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 difficult one than I had anticipated. I could find nobody to 
 accompany me who had ever traversed the road before, or 
 who could give me the least information as to the distance 
 between their own last village and Batu-brah, the nearest in 
 the Krée district. The road at its commencement lay along 
 the triangular plain occupying the cleft where the Barisan 
 Mountains branch to form the eastern and western boundaries 
 of the bay. Reaching in the afternoon the village of Sangi, 
 at the confluence of the Saming with the Sera I en- 
 camped for the night in its Balai. 
 
 Next morning, crossing the Saming in small prahus, accom- 
 panied by twenty-five porters I proceeded along the eastern 
 bank of the Semangka. As its stream, where at length the 
 path crossed to the opposite side, was running with a very swift 
 current and was nearly six feet deep, a difficult obstacle was 
 presented to our progress. An hour was lost in building a raft, 
 and a second in transporting the baggage. As the last pack- 
 ages, luckily for us, were being brought over rain began to fall, 
 rad within an hour of its commencement it would have been 
 impossible to have crossed. The river runs between hills’ 
 which for fifty miles rise very abruptly from its banks, and aug- 
 mented by contributory streams rushing down steep, boulder- 
 studded slopes, it swells with great suddenness. Over these 
 violent side-torrents every bundle had to be transported by 
 many carriers, each holding it by one hand, and steadying 
 himself by grasping his neighbour with the other. In this 
 operation several narrow escapes occurred; for, once losing 
 foothold, no human aid could have prevented one from being 
 swept into the main stream, boiling and roaring past in some 
 places 150 feet below us, and often thirty yards in breadth. 
 
 The track was of the worst character possible, being ob- 
 structed by fallen trees and huge blocks of stone, and in many 
 places obliterated by landslips, and often, where the distance 
 between the trees was not sufficiently wide to admit between 
 them the larger packages, a halt had to be made for the 
 obstructing stems to be felled. Our intended halt for the 
 night was a forest hut ; but none of my convoy knew where or 
 how far distant it was, if it existed at all. As the day wore on 
 I became very anxious, for tigers abounded, and we had been 
 crossing and following the fresh tracks of a herd of elephants 
 
IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. 163 
 
 all day. As it was Christmas time, and we were near the fifth 
 parallel of south latitude, darkness was due shortly after six 
 o'clock. 
 
 At half-past five I desired to encamp for the night, but 
 the ground was so wet and the leeches so numerous that the 
 carriers begged me to keep on. The more heavily-laden 
 porters had fallen gradually behind out of call, and those near 
 me had become very rebellious under the distressing condition 
 of things. Suddenly, even though expecting it, darkness fell 
 on us, so dense that I could not see even the outline of the 
 porter immediately in front of me. Buoyed up, however, by 
 the hope that after twelve hours’ march the hut must surely 
 be near, we plodded on, till compelled by the ruggedness of 
 the road to halt, with the intention of making a torch to ight 
 the rest of our way. 
 
 The only dry wood within reach was the interior of the 
 bamboo, on which the baggage was slung. One of these was 
 hastily undone and cut up, but no one had a dry match! 
 My own stock was with the part of the baggage in the rear. 
 My servant, however, had a flint and some tinder, with which, 
 after a great struggle, he managed to light a cigarette. The 
 only thing possible now was to try to make the cigarette 
 ignite the dry scrapings from the interior of the bamboo. At 
 length they caught; and hope brightened with the rising 
 smoke; but a big raindrop drowned them both. For nearly 
 an hour we laboured in vain to “make” fire, and the idea of 
 lighting a torch or of proceeding further had to be abandoned. 
 
 The porters had thrown themselves on halting on the wet 
 ground, and were fast asleep. All of us were drenched, but 
 with the part of the baggage by me was, luckily, my water- 
 proof sheet, containing a change of clothes and my Ulster-coat. 
 After several attempts to adjust the proper garments to the 
 respective portions of the body for which they were made, and 
 throwing the waterproof sheet over my head, I sat down on a 
 box to brave till morning the rain and the beasts of the forest, 
 my hands thrust deep into my Ulster pockets. ’omy delight, 
 my fingers found a piece of linen cloth bone dry. Starting up, 
 I roused the man with the flint and rasp. We hammered away 
 industriously for a weary length of time; at last we were 
 rewarded—the tinder had caught. It is impossible to relate 
 
 M 2 
 
164 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 in words how anxiously I nursed that fledgling fire; how 
 tenderly I held it in the hollow of my hands while my “boy” 
 fanned it gently ; when it had grown a little, how we reared it 
 in a hat before transplanting it to the ground where it almost 
 expired from its cold touch, but the immense native umbrella- 
 like hat shielded it till it was able to take care of itself. 
 All hands were then roused to gather wood, and we had at 
 length the satisfaction of feeling that the tigers would give us 
 a wide berth, and no elephant, unless a rogue, would trample 
 us down. Except a handful of rice at the ford, neither myself 
 nor my men had tasted food since dawn, and, possessing a fire, 
 we were hopeful that we might cook also; but, of course, 
 the eatables were in the other part of the baggage! There 
 was nothing, therefore, to be done but to sit down with what 
 patience each could command and wait for morning. 
 
 If things were the opposite of comfortable or bright for my 
 companions, I myself felt not a little compensated by the 
 singular appearance of the forest, which was everywhere phos- 
 phorescent. The stem of every tree blinked with a pale 
 greenish-white light, which undulated also across the surface 
 of the ground like moonlight coming and going behind the 
 clouds—from a minute threadlike fungus invisible in the day- 
 time to the unassisted eye; and here and there thick dumpy 
 mushrooms displayed a sharp clear dome of light, whose 
 intensity never varied or changed till the break of day; long 
 phosphorescent caterpillars and centipedes crawled out of 
 every corner, leaving a trail of light behind them, while fire- 
 flies darted about above like a lower firmament. Trying to 
 conceive what were the respective benefits conferred by this 
 wonderful luminosity on these so widely separated species 
 of living things, I dozed off to the lullaby of the weird forest 
 moan, the clanging “kang-kang”’ of the horned frogs, and 
 the not unmelodious wail of some night bird. 
 
 Break of the next day showed us in what a miserable spot 
 we had encamped—on the edge of a rocky cliff, under the 
 drip of the trees, not below their shade. We gathered together 
 the scattered articles of baggage, which had been deposited 
 anywhere and everywhere. Near me, hanging by its feet 
 to a carrying-pole dead, drowned by the rain, I found the 
 fowl for which I groped about, listening for its cackle 
 
IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. 165 
 
 the evening before. Resuming our journey faint and in 
 low spirits, we reached the dammar-gatherer’s hut within 
 an hour’s walk. The dead fowl, hastily boiled with a little 
 rice which had soured in the rain, was partaken of without 
 complaint. The nearest baggage came in some two hours 
 after us, the porters having camped without fire or shelter 
 not far from myself, but the heavier part did not arrive 
 till late in the afternoon, and not until I had sent out a 
 relief convoy. When it arrived the men were too tired to 
 proceed further that day,so we spent the night where we were. 
 At sunset we feasted luxuriously, we thought, on the solitary 
 fowl belonging to the owner of the hut, carefully reserving a 
 hmb for next day’s breakfast. 
 
 The remembrance of our dismal surroundings on that 
 evening haunts me still—a miserable hovel gauntly raised 
 like a railway signal-box on high posts, in a clearing in the 
 heart of the forest, amid the wild and melancholy confusion of 
 felled trees. and with our view shut in by grey fleecy rain- 
 clouds hanging in banks on the hills and low down on the 
 tree-tops. Thescreaming of the cicads and the “ koo-ow” of 
 the Argus pheasants seemed more mournful than usual; there 
 was nothing lively anywhere to relieve the gloom. In the 
 little space which they had respectfully railed off for me I 
 retired early to rest, and slept comfortably, notwithstanding the 
 smoke from a wood fire and a spluttering dammar lamp, the 
 steam from drying clothes and the aroma that filled the cabin, 
 into which twenty-eight of us had managed to squeeze. 
 
 Next day the grey morning had hardly appeared before we 
 were again on the march, striding along as fast as the deep 
 tracks made by a bevy of elephants which had traversed the 
 road the night before, permitted us. Mr. Wallace, in his 
 ‘Malay Archipelago,’ says “of the great Mammalia of Sumatra, 
 the elephant and the rhinoceros, the former is much more 
 scarce than it was a few years ago, and seems to retire rapidly 
 before the spread of civilisation. About Lobo Raman [a 
 district more to the north-east in the Palembang Residency | 
 tusks and bones are occasionaily found, but the living animal 
 is nownever seen.” In the district I was traversing the opposite 
 seemed to hold. Within twenty miles of Telok-betong I have 
 crossed a wide area over which elephants had committed 
 
166 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 depredations but a few hours before my coming. The village 
 people in these districts complained of the constant ravages 
 done by them in their fields and pepper gardens, while the 
 forest everywhere abounded with their tracks. Of the rhino- 
 ceros, on the other hand, I saw traces only a few times. 
 
 Some miles on in the forest we came upon a large stone by 
 the side of the path, supposed to possess some influence over 
 things terrestrial, for, as each of the porters passed it, he 
 plucked a handful of leaves and, placing them on the stone, 
 prayed for a dry day and good luck.* Whether it was through 
 the influence of the stone or not we got a dry day, and I 
 only wished that we had met with it somewhat sooner. All 
 that day we pushed on by the side of the Semangka, which 
 glided past us deep and noiselessly through a level plateau, 
 crossing more than once from the one side to the other by 
 some giant tree that had fallen from bank to bank, through 
 dense forest in a sombre winding lane, beyond which we 
 could see nothing but blinks of the sky, except where now 
 and then it opened out on pretty sandy beaches which swarmed 
 with species of metallic tiger-beetles and sand-bees, and where 
 Sulphur (Yerias) and Swallow-tailed butterflies (Charawes and 
 Appias), in gyrating flocks played on the damp ground by the 
 water’s edge. 
 
 Towards evening, emerging from the forest, our eyes were 
 delighted by the sight of a small cluster of houses, the village 
 of Bumi-padang, “the field of the world,” lying a mile off, in 
 a large open alluvial amphitheatre. But, the path suddenly 
 giving out, presently we found ourselves floundering to the 
 thighs at every step in a deep morass swarming with enormous 
 leeches, out of which we could not extricate ourselves, as it 
 seemed to stretch in every direction except behind us. On 
 observing us the head of the marga and his chieflings, with 
 the usual crowd following, came out to welcome and attend us 
 back to the village. They came to the edge of the bog and 
 sat down to await us; and doubtless the sight of our scattered 
 cavalcade floundering in the slough afforded them not a little 
 amusement—it was ludicrous enough to ourselves. 
 
 Here I dismissed the porters brought from the coast, and 
 with a new retinue pressed forward with the break of day. 
 
 * See below in the closing Chapter of this book. 
 
IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. 167 
 
 The road towards the high plateau of my destination rose at a 
 steep incline, and with the rain that had recently fallen was 
 horribly slippery; but the worst road has always something to 
 brighten it, for where it approached or rose above 2000 feet I 
 was gratified by finding broad fields of brightly coloured 
 purple, yellow and white balsams, and close to the edge of the 
 path many low herbaceous Cyrtandrex, a family with chaste 
 foliage and flowers; tall terrestrial orchids of numerous 
 sorts, and many species of ferns. At dark we entered the 
 village of Batu-brah, and I found ready for me, as the news of 
 my coming had preceded me, a royal—compared with my late 
 experiences—sleeping apartment in the Balai, with a table 
 groaning under a load of fruits. 
 
 In the morning I was agreeably surprised by finding myself 
 in a village of a character quite different from any that I had 
 yet visited in Sumatra. The houses were high, large, and 
 substantially built of planks raised for five or six feet on im- 
 mense pillars formed of the largest trees of the forest, with 
 pyramidal roofs, surrounded by an elegant ramshorn-like 
 ornament universally used in the district, cut out of pumice 
 blocks or of tree-fern roots, with a piece of mirror or a bright 
 stone let into it to glitter in the sun. I did not camp here, 
 but continued to Kenali, the capital of the marga, a large and 
 very old village some miles eastward. Both sides of the road 
 were fully cultivated with coffee, rice, but principally tobacco, 
 for which this region of Sumatra is famed. Indian corn is 
 also grown in considerable quantity, along with European and 
 sweet potatoes and cabbages of excellent quality. 
 
 On our way we crossed a small tributary of the Semangka, 
 which, at a little distance below the ford, narrowing from a 
 river of thirty yards to one of a yard or a yard and a-half 
 wide, dashed itself into a frothy torrent down a narrow rocky 
 gorge in a series of falls for about 100 feet into the main river. 
 The falls reminded me of those of the Clyde at Stonebyres ; 
 they are more picturesque, but less imposing from the diffi- 
 culty of viewing them from below where the cascade plunges 
 into the main river. ‘The road from Batu-brah to Kenali runs 
 along a high plateau of about 3000 feet above the sea, extend- 
 ing between the Barisan range and the volcanoes of Besagi 
 and Sekindjau, and is composed of mingled clay and a sandy 
 
168 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 pumice-stone tufa which, mixed with the black humus from 
 the forests of centuries, has given its great fertility to the 
 soil of this region. ; 
 
 The village, situated on a high bluff looking down on the 
 river, is one of the oldest in the district, and is certainly one 
 of the finest, cleanest, and most elegantly arranged that I had 
 visited. One of its most noticeable features was its decora- 
 tive art. The massive pillars, as well as the super-imposed 
 beams and framework of the dwellings, were entirely covered 
 with rich, intricate, and really beautiful carvings in an 
 extremely hard black wood, which, after one hundred and fifty 
 years by their data, appeared perfectly fresh and sound. The 
 supporting beams, which rested on the pillars, projected some 
 feet beyond the corners, and were ornamented with carved 
 terminals, somewhat like the figure-head of a ship. A broad 
 stairway of wood, sometimes with rails elaborately carved, 
 led up to the doors. The windows were constructed of solid 
 blocks of wood cut into oval or straight apertures, which 
 could be closed by a correspondingly cut and rotating piece of 
 wood in the inside. The divisions between the apertures were 
 ornamented on the outside with different colours or inlaid 
 with elegant designs in mother-of-pearl. The sides of most of 
 the houses were made of panels of wood let into a grooved 
 framework and accurately fitted, with the aid of very few tools, 
 and often without a single nail. The Balai, always the best 
 looked-after building in a village, was covered everywhere 
 with rich carvings. 
 
 Finding to my disappointment that Kenali was too far from 
 the Besagi Mountain where I wished specially to collect for 
 a time, to suit as my headquarters, I was reluctantly compelled 
 to remove to another village nearer its foot, some nine or ten 
 miles further on. 
 
 Descending two hundred and fifty feet from the village, we 
 reached the level of the river, and proceeded along its bank 
 on a narrow alluvial flat for several miles by the edge of rice- 
 fields, beautifully cultivated in quadrangular plots’ rising in 
 gentle terraces, from which the irrigating water of the higher 
 beds was conveyed by a neat contrivance of bamboo pipes 
 passing under the dividing dykes and bent upwards to dis- 
 charge in the lower terraces as low fountains, which had a 
 
"sat abnd aan OL 
 
 ‘TIVNEM HO WOVITIA 
 
 
 

 
IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. 169 
 
 
 
 
 
 pretty effect in each of these miniature green-walled ponds, 
 whose surface, save where the fountains played and for the 
 silent circles of each outflow-vortex, was unbroken by a single 
 ripple. As the terraces rose but little above each other, the 
 blue sky was reflected as in a mirror along the whole valley, 
 while the bright green of the young corn peeping up above the 
 surface, by giving a green colour to the mirror without in the 
 least breaking to the eye the placid surface of the water, or 
 interfering with perfect reflection of the ever-changing face of 
 the sky, produced a beautiful effect impossible to describe in 
 words. Here and there, adding life to the scene, in the midst 
 of these fields were smoking cottages embowered in groves of 
 Hriodendron and Acacia trees. 
 
 Fording the river, the road took us, after a steep ascent, for 
 several miles along almost a knife-ridge under a grand old 
 avenue of virgin forest, at whose termination I half expected 
 to find a stately castle or an ancient ruin. As we approached 
 the village the forest became less dense, and we passed between 
 a line of tall red-leaved Hanjuangs (Calodracon Jacquinit), 
 a shrub sacred to their graveyards. Under this avenue of 
 mourning, just outside the village gate, was laid out that one 
 institution, at all events, common to the most exalted civilisa- 
 tion and the most debased barbarism—the Home of the dead. 
 Each little mound, often surmounted by circular ornamented 
 pillars of wood diverging from each other at opposite ends of 
 the grave within a fenced and neatly tended inclosure, was 
 planted with Crotons and beautiful-leaved shrubs. 
 
 The village itself surprised me not a little. It might have 
 been a feudal castle. As its name, Hoodjoong or “ the village 
 on the verge,’ implies, it was situated at the extremity of 
 the long narrow ridge along which I had come, and was in- 
 accessible, owing to precipitous slopes dipping down into the 
 deep valley on all sides except on the one we had approached 
 it by, and there the road, rising in a short steep incline, passed 
 into the village under a narrow gateway cut out of the soft 
 tufa which hid the village till it was passed. All that was 
 wanted to complete the picture was a battlemented tower or 
 two over it, and the chains of a drawbridge and _ portcullis. 
 The village looked down into a deep alluvial valley laid out 
 in rice-plots along the banks of a stream whose double sources 
 
170 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 could be seen as a couple of waterfalls, like long white streaks 
 high up in the face of the Besagi, which formed the back-. 
 ground of the view. 
 
 The villagers employed themselves chiefly in the cultivation — 
 of tobacco, sold under the name of Ranau tobacco, which, 
 though not the true article, is little inferior to what is grown 
 on the borders of the lake of that name. Great attention was 
 given also to the cultivation of rice, which they grew as in 
 Java, on the wet system, in plot-divided terraces. In Java 
 the plots are allowed to run dry after the fields are harvested ; 
 but here not so, as they were kept carefully stocked with small 
 fishes, which afforded to their owners a large food supply, while 
 the mollusks, which infest the sides and bottom of these tanks, 
 are abundantly eaten by the natives, who obtain from their 
 calcined shells thedime for their betel-chewing. Several deep 
 plots were entirely appropriated to the propagation of fish, and 
 in them Water-lilies (Symnanthemum) and other aquatic plants 
 grew in great luxuriance, dotting the surface with their large 
 white and pink or yellow flowers, and giving to the fields the 
 appearance of a garden. 
 
 I'he only periods when a really industrious spirit seems 
 to prevail among these people are during the planting and the 
 reaping seasons. ‘Then the whole family—men, as well as 
 women and children—turn out to assist, and remain in the 
 fields from morning till dusk. 
 
 Before beginning to plant the crop, a charm is placed in a 
 favourable and fertile spot in one of the plots, in order to secure 
 a good harvest. our of the finest ears of paddy from the pre- 
 ceding crop are stuck into the ground in the form of a square, 
 and by the side of each a little wand of the leaf of the Areng 
 palm, to whose extremity is bound a little packet of cotton- 
 wool inclosing a few rice-grains of large size; in the centre of 
 the square is planted a stem of Sasangai grass (which has a long 
 and many-corned ear), with a fruit-bearing twig of the Jambu 
 (Myrtacee) on each side of it. ‘This, being interpreted, 
 means: “ May the rice of which this is a sample here grow 
 in these fields stout and strong, and with heads as fruitful as 
 this Sasangai, with corns as large as this sample, and as sweet 
 as the Jambu.” In the harvest time this little square is left 
 to the end, and the lucky sheaf is carried last of all. This 
 
‘IOVSAT LNOOW SGYVMOL DNINOOT SOSNOOfGOOH JO AYVITIA DHL YVAN MGIA 
 OL abnd a0vf OL 
 
 HERES 
 
 
 

 
IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. Li 
 
 reminded me of the “claik sheaf” of the northern counties of 
 Scotland, for which a rich scytheful is selected, and of the 
 superstitions attaching to its cutting. The fields must present 
 here a picturesque sight in the reaping season, and one I 
 should have liked to see, for the harvesters in their many- 
 coloured garments and hats stand in the water amid the yellow 
 grain and push before them narrow-pointed skiffs to receive 
 the heads of corn as they are snipped off. 
 
 At other seasons of the year the people are lazy enough— 
 that is, the male portion of them;—for the women almost 
 entirely look after the dry-ground crops, the tobacco, coffee, 
 maize, &c., and daily go to the fields to fetch the produce, 
 returning with enormous loads in baskets suspended on the 
 back by a cord across the forehead. The sole delight of the 
 men is in tending their gamecocks. The villager carries one 
 with him wherever he goes ; and whenever his hands are free 
 he may be seen with it under his arm, patting and stroking it. 
 It is generally tethered by a cord to an elegantly made peg 
 in some shady spot near the house; and, should another cock 
 attack his captive pet, its owner will rush to its rescue more 
 speedily than he would to the ery of his child. 
 
 Here and throughout the district goitre was extremely 
 prevalent, nearly twenty per cent. of the people being affected. 
 It is ascribed by some to the great loads carried by the women 
 on their foreheads; but they did not seem more subject than 
 the men. I saw even children of seven and eight years of age 
 with the beginning of the disease. The natives themselves 
 ascribe it to the soil, but why they could not say. I was told 
 by the head of the village that in the Makakau district (to 
 the north) which is notorious for its guitre, seventy per cent. 
 are affected. The soil of the Hoodjoong district is a sandy 
 pumicestone tufa. Itis held by some authorities that the only 
 important point established as to the rocks in which goitre 
 does not occur is the absence of limestone and metallic im- 
 purities, and that endemic goitre coincides with metalliferous 
 deposits, iron pyrites being in the fore rank. Later on in my 
 journey I found on the Rawas river far less goitre, where we 
 have Silurian rocks and some limestone and metalliferous— 
 iron pyritesand gold—strata than on this pumicestone plateau, 
 which is non-metalliferous, 
 
172 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Laid up for some weeks from ulcerated wounds, I was 
 unable personally to do so much on the higher parts of the 
 Besagi as I could have desired. From what my hunters and 
 collectors brought in, it was evident that its elevation corre- 
 sponds very nearly with that of the Tengamus—about 7000 
 feet—in the Lampongs; myrtles, ericas, rhododendrons and 
 moss-loving orchids, and high-growing species of Melasto- 
 macee were among the most characteristic plants. It was 
 trying to the temper to hear accounts of abundant tracks of 
 the fine goat-like antelope (Capricornis sumatrensis) whose 
 footprints I had so wistfully followed on the Tengamus 
 without success. The return of my bird hunters, however, 
 was always for me the great event of the day. As birds 
 were very abundant, my collection increased rapidly. Among 
 the more interesting species may be mentioned Orescius gouldz, 
 one of the Trogons, the orange of whose breast washes com- 
 pletly out in spirit of wine; Criniger gutturalis, two species of 
 Myophoneus (M. melanura and M. dicrorhynchus), which in the 
 evening flitted about from stone to stone with a loud whistle, 
 the former quite endearing itself to me by its blackbird- 
 like form and habits; Polyplectron chalewrurus, one of the 
 Phasiande; and Arborophila personata, a little partridge, 
 differing from the type in being more bluish-ash on the breast 
 and more closely barrred with black on the back. 
 
 I was, however, able to entomologise among the sunny avenue- 
 like roads that for several miles led away from the village, 
 where flocks of Cyrestes (Nymphalidx), spread their chastely 
 marked wings flat on the ground, and delicate Lycenide 
 disported in great numbers; of other Lepidoptera the more 
 interesting species may be named: Callidula javanica, which 
 emitted a strong and disagreeable odour; Melanitis suradeva; 
 on stumps of trees under the shade; a fine new species of 
 Amnosia ; Hurlinia fulva, lately discovered in Tenasserim by 
 my friend Captain Bingham; one of the prettiest species of the 
 Ecophoride ; two new species of that curious genus named by 
 Butler Homopsyche from their singular resemblance to a Homo- 
 pteron, and for which J at first took them; and Botys deductalis, 
 a species known also from Ceylon, an island with which Sumatra 
 seems to have many species in common; in Telok-betong: I 
 netted a small moth at light, Pentacitrotus transversa, also 
 
IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. 173 
 
 represented in Ceylon. Frequenting dark-coloured tree-stems, 
 I observed (and secured) some fine specimens of flocks of 
 Amnosia decora. It has a curious habit of settling high up, 
 then running down the trunk, stopping at intervals flapping its 
 wings; then flying off to a neighbouring stem to perform the 
 same manceuyres. A few miles from Hoodjoong I captured 
 the Husemia belangert spread out on broad leaves of Sctta- 
 minee. It emits a powerful odour of cloves. Several species 
 of lepidoptera mimic members of the Agaristide, but I did 
 not discover here if Husemea belangert had a double. From 
 the island of Nias (on the west coast of Sumatra) Mr. Butler 
 has recently described (Ann. and Mag. of Nat. Hist., July 1884) 
 a moth, a species of Huschenide (Pancthia simulans) which 
 mimics Ophthalmis decipiens (of the Agaristide); while in 
 Amboina, Ophthalnis lincea (which belongs to the same family ) 
 is mimicked by Artawa simulans (of the Liparide). 
 
174 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY—continued. 
 
 Leave Hoodjoong—Denudation—Great Arums—Sukau—Chiefs of the Ranau 
 region—Tandjong-djati on the Ranau Lake—The high temperature of the 
 water—Birds, fishes, interesting insects—Banding Agong—To Muara 
 Dua—Through Kisam—Geological notes—Kisam villages—Coat of 
 arms—Writing, dress, religion of Kisam people. 
 
 Lzeavine Hoodjoong in the end of January, I proceeded north 
 eastward towards Mount Siminung and the Ranau lake 
 district ; repassing on the way Kenaliand Batu-brah, I crossed 
 the Semangka river near its head-waters, as a small stream run- 
 ning in a very deep valley of soft sandstone. In descending 
 the face of the valley the gigantic results of denudation were 
 very striking, where the rain of only one season had been 
 sufficient to excavate enormous ravines. Even the rain of a 
 few days had newly washed down thousands of tons’ weight 
 from its slopes. From this cause the whole country was 
 exceedingly picturesque, sculptured out into singular and 
 rugged outlines, steep gorges and precipitous valleys. From 
 such a landscape one is able to picture faintly the effect of 
 this vast levelling agent working ceaselessly through cycles 
 of time, in carving and changing the face of the country and 
 in planing down the mountains and table-lands, even where 
 protected by virgin forest. 
 
 From the crossing of the Semangka river the road to the 
 northward rises to the watershed of the rivers which fall on 
 the one hand south to the Semangka Bay, and on the other 
 into the lake Ranau and thence eastward by an arm of that 
 immense river system which drains the whole eastern side of 
 the Barisan range for more than 200 miles due north, and dis- 
 charges itself into the Java sea below the queer half-floating 
 town of Palembang. This mountain road, 3000 feet above the 
 
IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. 175 
 
 sea, led me across as pretty and picturesque a piece of country 
 as one could wish to travel through, winding round the head of 
 deep glens, with occasional gorges to right and left which have 
 left only three feet of ridge-path between them, and along the 
 face of forest-clad precipices, hundreds of feet deep below 
 which flowed hidden streams whose murmur bubbled up from 
 among the trees as a pleasant music. In descending from the 
 plateau I found at about 2500 feet, growing in sandy soil where 
 it seems best to flourish, several stems of the giant arum 
 (Amorphophallus titanum) one of the largest known herbs. The 
 biggest of these specimens measured seventeen feet in height. 
 
 Descending from the northern face of the plateau, I was met 
 by the chief and under-chiefs of the marga, at some distance 
 from the village of Sukau, where I was to spend the night; 
 and at the boundary of the village I was greeted by a crowd 
 of the inhabitants and a band consisting of three youths—one 
 in the middle fingered a flute which he had newly cut from a 
 bamboo, the two others each beat a small bronze gong both 
 of them cracked, which they carried in one hand suspended 
 before them by a cord, tinkling it with a short twig in the 
 other—who played me to the Balai to the notes perhaps of 
 their margal anthem. Providentially the stateliness of the 
 occasion made conversation out of place, otherwise, had it been 
 necessary to open my compressed lips, I would have shocked the 
 fathers of the people by the heartiness of my mirth, for never have 
 I taken part in so ludicrous a procession with so solemn a 
 countenance. Considerits composition: the musical advance- 
 guard as [have described; the central figure under a hatas big 
 as an umbrella,in garments the worse of repeated conflicts with 
 the thorns and thickets of the forest, seated on a small steed 
 caparisoned in a bridle with more knotted cords than leather 
 in its composition and in a saddle that required every artful 
 device to keep it from falling to pieces, his long, great-booted 
 legs almost trailing on the ground; alongside on either hand 
 the mute chiefs in duly solemn countenances, followed by a 
 rear-guard of coolies with my baggage, and the general crowd 
 of men, women and children—and who would not have desired 
 to relieve his twitching pent-up risorius muscles ? 
 
 Next morning I continued my way towards the Lake Ranau, 
 and at the marches of the Krée and Palembang Residencies, 
 
176 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 the confines of their territory, my hosts of Sukau took farewell, 
 and I was welcomed by the chiefs of the neighbouring mar- 
 gas, who conducted me to Tandjong-djati, the village where 
 I purposed to spend some time. If I was the day before 
 inclined somewhat to levity at the general appearance of the 
 procession that greeted me, I felt embarrassed the other way 
 on meeting these chiefs of the Ranau district. Sedate-looking 
 men of middle age they were, dressed in neat black official 
 coats, spotlessly clean collars, white starched trousers with a 
 sarong girt about their loins, patent leather boots, and on their 
 heads the imposing official cap, which I saw then for the first 
 time, mitre-like in shape, covered with cloth of gold, while each 
 carried in his hand a gold-topped stick bearing the arms of his 
 Majesty of Holland, the insigna of his office. They looked 
 such aristocratic personages and so faultlessly attired that I 
 felt that I ought to descend from my horse and bow myself 
 to the ground in return for the profound salaam with which 
 they received me. 
 
 After the usual festivities given on the visit of a white man, 
 in which the dancing of the maidens, attired in their best 
 attire and jewels, is always a conspicuous feature, I settled 
 into possession of my new home with a light and hopeful 
 heart, for it was situated in a district considered to be one 
 of the prettiest in Sumatra, by the margin of the lake 
 looking out on the cone of the Siminung; but the very 
 night of my arrival, whether by accident or by design is 
 doubtful, some poisonous drug was placed in one or other 
 dish of my evening meal, which induced profuse internal 
 hemorrhage that nearly proved fatal to me. Happily a strong 
 emetic rid me of the noxious ingredient, and a few days of 
 care restored me to my norma! condition; but it is not a 
 very pleasant reminiscence of the place. 
 
 The Ranau Lake lies 1700 feet above the sea level at the 
 foot of the now quiescent—if ever within historical times active 
 —voleano of the Siminung. From its shape, which is that of 
 two irregular circles run together, it appears to occupy the 
 site of an old crater. In the centre it is of eatreme depth. 
 At various points round the margin nearest the Siminung, hot 
 springs of 127° IF. of temperature bubble up, and warm the 
 greater portion of the western end from 7° to 10° higher than 
 
IN SUMATRA. 177 
 
 that of the air. It is abundantly stocked with fish and 
 bivalve mollusca; but when they approach too near the 
 warmer shore, where the temperature is above 100° F., the 
 water instantly proves fatal to them. These springs and the 
 very frequent earthquakes—no fewer than three occurred during 
 my short stay—attest that, though the volcano is now qui- 
 escent, the interior of the earth here is in a very unquiet state. 
 
 Tall forest trees clothed the high margins of the lake, which 
 descended here and there to grassy bays and level green 
 swamps; on the sandy margins flourished fig-trees and Ery- 
 thrinas with large bright scarlet flowers, on whose crooked 
 stems flocks of blue herons (Butorzdes javanica) and pure 
 white egrets (Bubulcus coromandus) constantly sat dozing out 
 the heat of the day. In the early mornings they had busied 
 themselves in gathering the leeches and insects from the 
 backs of the buffaloes, by whom their kind offices seemed 
 highly appreciated. On the high solitary trees perched 
 clumsy, bald-headed adjutants (Leptoptelus), whose thin long 
 legs always suggested the idea that they had escaped from 
 some taxidermist’s hands when he had just got the length of 
 running the wires up their shanks. In the marshes snipe 
 abounded in great plenty; grey djoo-jooats (Tringoides) on 
 the sandy beaches, and shy water-hens (Hypotenidia striata) 
 among the tall flags. The lake teemed with fish of many kinds, 
 the best being the semah (Leobarbus) which, when full-grown, 
 is as large as the largest salmon, and the katjubang (Botia 
 macranthus), a small but most beautiful scarlet- and black- 
 banded fish. 
 
 A few interesting captures of insects, many of them quite 
 ‘ new species, were made here by the margins of the lake; 
 especially may be mentioned Xeropterya simplicior, previously 
 known only from Borneo, and Heterodes ansonialis, described 
 before from the far-distant Duke of York Island, east of New 
 Guinea; and two splendid new species of Papilio, P. itamputi 
 of Mr. Butler, and P. forbest of Smith, allied to P. alciabiades. 
 
 The village of Banding Agong, whither | moved for a short 
 time as the guest of Mr. Hisgen, the Controller of the district, 
 was a delightful spot, situated at the south-east angle on a 
 high but sheltered spot, commanding one of the finest views of 
 the lake that can be had, exactly fronting the voleano and the 
 
 N 
 
178 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 peaks of the Tapa Skandri, or Footstep of (no less a hero than) 
 Alexander the Great, whom the chiefs of these regions claim, 
 singularly enough, as their illustrious stem-father. The 
 industry of the lake borders, for which it is famed through- 
 out the Archipelago, is its tobacco culture, which is grown on 
 a loose porous earth composed of the detritus of pumicestone 
 mixed with humus. The finest quality is made from none 
 but the very topmost leaves of the plant, and commands a 
 very high price. 
 
 From the lake, on my next stage towards the Dempo, the 
 road descended through the same picturesque country (in 
 former ages probably the bottom of a Ranau lake greater than 
 now) all the way to Muara-dua. This town, “at the mouth of 
 two rivers” as its name signifies, is situated at the union 
 of the Sako with the broad Komering river, and is the 
 seat of a large trade by river with Palembang in cotton, 
 tobacco, rice, timber, and “ birds’ nests ””—the edible swifts’ 
 nests—gathered from dark calcareous grottoes in the neigh- 
 bourhood. The town, though distant 200 miles in a direct 
 line from the sea, is only 400 feet above its level, and stands 
 really on the edge of the great alluvial plain which lies along 
 the entire eastern shores of Sumatra, formed by the detritus 
 washed down from the Barisan range into a sea whose coast- 
 line, retreating by a slight elevation of the land, left dry this 
 broad plain, which rises nowhere throughout its vast extent 
 more than 600 feet above the level of the sea. Before its 
 upheaval, South Sumatra could not have been more than 100 
 miles broad. Several great river systems, running in a general 
 west-to-east direction fan-shape in form, traverse it, and are 
 laying down along the margin of the land a further deposit, 
 the slight elevation of which, for some thirty feet only 
 between Palembang and the Island of Banka, would raise the 
 shallow sea into dry land. Near the town of Muara-dua I was 
 surprised to net a European moth (Phragmatecia arundinis). 
 
 My further course northward traversed the sources of the 
 great arms of the southern of these systems. 
 
 Sending my baggage on to Pengandonan by the level road 
 on the low lands, I proceeded on foot thither over the Kisam 
 Hills. Just above Muara-dua the Slabung river was crossed by 
 a very high suspension-bridge of a most picturesque construc- 
 
IN SUMATRA. 179 
 
 tion. In the form of a segment of a great circle, its floor was 
 of cylindrical logs securely tied to three gigantic rattan cables 
 the true supports of the bridge, fixed to the shore pillars; 
 over these logs was a close bamboo basket-work pleasant to 
 the nude foot of the pedestrian, railed on both sides, and pro- 
 tected overhead by a close thatched roof—the whole forming 
 a long hanging cage, which swayed freely as it was traversed. 
 From this bridge I again ascended abruptly on to what was 
 once in all probability the bed of the Ranau lake before its 
 dimensions were interfered with by upheavals. The rivers I 
 passed had cut deep rocky gorges, down which it required 
 some care to pick one’s steps, through the strata of 150 to 
 200 feet in depth, showing the pumicestone tuff superin- 
 cumbent on Tertiary rocks of Eocene age containing fossil 
 Cyprexa, Teredina, and Pecten shells. The whole country was 
 undulating, and full of alang-alang grass, and low second- 
 erowth forest which presented in itself little of interest, and 
 prevented any view of the surrounding country. 
 
 The houses of the Kisam people were of a pattern of their 
 own. They were mostly of bamboo wickerwork fitted into a 
 framework of wood, and slated with little boards of cedrilla 
 wood. Hach house had built out from it a chamber on the 
 same level with it under a slightly lower roof, which was used 
 as a lounging place for the owner and a sleeping room for 
 visitors. The door was reached—as the houses stood on tall 
 piles—by a slanting tree-trunk, in which a series of notches 
 only large enough to admit the toes served as steps, and up 
 which a booted traveller found it no easy matter to ascend. 
 The space below the house was blocked with chopped-up wood, 
 whose primary use was, doubtless, as a protection against the 
 entrance of thieves or attack from below by enemies, as it is 
 apparent how easy it would be to thrust a spear or other 
 instrument through the bamboo floor into the bodies of the 
 sleepers resting on it. The beneath of a man’s house is con- 
 sidered almost as sacred as its interior, and their laws attached 
 supreme penalties to the crime of being found at night there. 
 The house framework in most of the villages was elaborately 
 carved in intricate patterns executed with the most patient 
 care. In Padjar-bulan, a very old village which I passed 
 
 through, the decorative carving far exceeded in profusion and 
 N 2 
 
180 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 excellence that in any of the others, especially in its Balai, 
 where I was greatly interested in finding what I may call a 
 veritable coat of arms, carved out of an immense block of wood 
 and erected in the central position, where one would expect 
 an object with the significance of a coat of arms to be placed. 
 From what I could learn it had such a significance in the 
 estimation of the chief of the village; for he told me that 
 only such villages as could claim origin from some distant 
 village could erect such a carving in their Balai. J am not, 
 however, master enough of the terms of blazonry current in 
 the College of Arms to describe it in fitting language. The 
 shield had double supporters; on each side a tiger rampant 
 
 TRE > 
 
 oe 
 Ire ta 
 ) 
 
 ae es 
 
 
 
 COAT OF ARMS IN THE VILLAGE OF PADJAR-BULAN. 
 
 bearing on its back a snake defiant, upheld the shield, in whose 
 centre the most prominent quartering was a floral ornament, 
 which might be a sunflower shading two deer, one on each side— 
 the dexter greater than the sinister. Above the floral ornament 
 was a central and to me unintelligible halfmoon-like blazon- 
 ing, but on either side of it was an “ulai lidai” (Chorus of 
 bystanders: “ Undoubtedly an ulai lidai”), but of what it was 
 the similitude among created things, beyond suggesting faintly 
 the lineaments of a scorpion, I was not pursuivant enough to 
 recognise; on the sinister of the two, however, was a man 
 “tandacking ” (dancing). Below the tips of the conjoined tails 
 of the supporting tigers were two ornate triangles, the upper 
 
IN SUMATRA. 151 
 
 
 
 balanced on the apex of the lower, which might with truth 
 be described as the supporter of the whole, but whether these 
 bear any reference to the mystic signs recognised by the 
 Worshipful Lodges is a question that I must leave for the 
 Chief Mason to settle as best he can with the Chief Herald. I 
 feel inclined, however, to assert that it was as good an escut- 
 cheon, and as well and honourably emblazoned, as any that ever 
 emanated from the College; and who dare say that it is less 
 ancient? The sight of that emblazoned board and its carved 
 surroundings, hid away in a small little-known hamlet in the 
 Kisam hills among a half-savage and pagan people, astonished 
 me not a little, and added respect to my farewell salutation to 
 its chief. 
 
 ‘The Kisam people write in a character called, from its being 
 inscribed on bamboos with a pointed knife, rentjong, differing 
 only slightly from that used in the Lampongs, which nearly 
 all of them—women included—can read and write. During 
 my journey I was able to obtain several interesting bamboos 
 inscribed with their songs. These pantuns are metrical com- 
 positions consisting of lines of eight to ten feet in length, 
 sometimes rhyming and sometimes not; but they are curious 
 in that after every few lines one or two others which have 
 absolutely no meaning in themselves, or connection with the 
 composition, are interpolated ; some euphonious word being 
 caught up and added to others more or less aliiterating with 
 it, to make a good jingle of sounds. 
 
 The dress of the women is remarkable for its shortness and 
 scantiness. As arule their single garment is made by them- 
 selves in the pattern peculiar to their district, from their own 
 home-grown cotton or silk. But the cultivation of the silk- 
 worm is now almost abandoned, since unrestricted intercourse 
 with Palembang, and through it with the outside world, brings 
 the products of foreign looms to their out-of-the-way doors 
 with less trouble than they can make them for themselves. 
 Thus are the waves of civilisation sweeping away the indi- 
 genous industrial arts of the people, and flooding out their 
 manufactures, turning the hereditary craftspeople to other 
 occupations. 
 
 The people are pagan, believing in the influence of the 
 spirits of their dead forefathers. Near the village of Gunung 
 
182 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Megang I came on their burial-ground, laid out in the forest 
 by the pathside—a great elevated quadrangular mound, in 
 length just enough to admit a full-grown body. A rough 
 stone at head and foot indicated where each person lay side 
 by side with his neighbour. Only the married people are 
 interred in this common burying-place, in the right, perhaps, 
 of their being parents of the people; all others, youths 
 and infants—useless off-shoots of their race—are buried any- 
 where in the forest, and always some distance from where 
 their elders lie. An unmarried woman about to give birth to 
 a child is compelled to leave the village and retreat to the 
 forest, whence after some forty days of solitary sojourn she 
 returns—never with her offspring—and the village is purified 
 by the sacrifice of a buffalo. Their most sacred oath is sworn 
 by placing a hand over the grave of their forefathers amid 
 the incense of benzoin, or in a circle drawn on the ground : 
 “May the spirit of my forefathers afflict me if I have spoken 
 falsely,” being the formula. The same manner of swearing 
 obtains, I am told, among the inhabitants of the Makakau, 
 Komering (Muara-dua), Semindo, and Blalau (Hoodjoong) 
 regions. ‘I'he Kisam people swear also by drinking the 
 water in which a kriss has been dipped, as well as by the 
 spirit of Tuan Raja Gnawo, who has his dwelling-place on 
 Mount Dempo. | 
 
IN SUMATRA. 185 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY (continued). 
 
 From Gunung Megang—Luntar—A_ surprise—River Ogan—Curious hills 
 
 ._ —QOrnamental carving—A village fair—A cock-fight—Into the Inim 
 Valley—Muara Inim—Lahat—Passumah lands—Ceremonial formulas— 
 The people—Marriage ceremonies—lIllegitimate births—Religion—Death 
 superstitions and rites—Sculptured stones—Interesting visit from Ben- 
 coolen men. 
 
 TAKING my departure from Gunung Megang, and crossing the 
 watershed into the Ogan valley at 2000-3000 feet above sea- 
 level, I descended towards Pengandonan. Passing through 
 the village of Luntar, I found the chiefs of the marga and a 
 great concourse of people from all the region assembled on the 
 third anniversary of the death of the Headman’s father, to 
 secure the welfare of his soul by feasts and sports. Here was 
 waiting for me the Pangeran of Pengandonan, which was the 
 adjacent marga. After a liberal refreshment of tea, with 
 the ubiquitous Huntley and Palmers’ biscuits, and a Palem- 
 bang baked comfit, made principally of sago and the hashed-up 
 flesh of a fish (whose large scales, dyed of various colours, 
 are extensively used—and admirably adapted for the purpose 
 they are—to cover or “ tile” over the large leaf hats used in 
 the district), and some ripe juicy oranges, I set out with my 
 host for Pengandonan lower down on the opposite side of the 
 Ogan. We crossed the river on a raft at a very beautiful spot 
 at the confluence of the Laham and the Ogan. On our left 
 were several curiously formed, abrupt hills; facing us was the 
 bare-topped, calcareous peak of the Riang rising sheer from the 
 bank, and just above the ferry was moored a flotilla of rakits— 
 those picturesque floating houses by which the produce of the 
 region is transported to the coast, which to the trader are ship and 
 comfortable house for many days together on these great rivers. 
 
184 A NATURALIST ’S WANDERINGS 
 
 A short intercourse with the Pangeran served to show that 
 he was a native far superior in intelligence and ability to 
 most of the chiefs about him. Though dressed no better 
 than the ordinary native, and preferring his sandals—whose 
 possession is always a mark of superiority—carried behind him 
 to wearing them, he had even more than usual of the easy 
 dignified politeness and gentlemanly bearing of the higher 
 Malays. Yet when, a few yards from the river bank, below a 
 shade of trees, we suddenly came on a neat carriage evidently 
 waiting for some one, so little was I prepared for his reply to 
 my surprised query, “ Whose is the carriage?” that it almost 
 ‘took away my breath’ when he quietly but not without a 
 little pride, said, “It is mine.” The carriage was drawn by a 
 pair of well-kept black ponies, furnished with every Huropean 
 appurtenance. It certainly was incongruous, one felt, this 
 spanking pair, with bright silver harness, whirling through 
 villages of poor-looking cottages without one refined taste to 
 match this specimen of high civilisation in their midst. Every 
 village we passed through poured out its inhabitants to see the 
 bright equipage, which, though housed quite near, was evidently 
 a by no means common apparition. The women stared with 
 open mouth, and the children, in all the clothing nature had 
 given them, raced us for a long way, shouting with all their 
 might. It was evident that the Pangeran, satisfied with the 
 honour of having purchased such a possession, was not much 
 given to indulging himself in the use of it, if one may judge 
 by the undaunted way, utterly regardless of dynamical 
 principles, in which he took the most rectangular pieces of a 
 road never made for a carriage. Perhaps I may misjudge 
 him, and he may have so accurately known these principles as 
 to be able to drive within an inch or so of the centre of gravity 
 without dislodging it. He never eased up to a corner; even 
 a double right-angled “hook” was described with wonderful 
 precision, if not with the utmost comfort. Holes or no holes, 
 logs or no logs in the way, he never drew rein till we halted 
 for good at the door of the Pasanggrahan, a rest-house which 
 he himself had erected on the right bank of the river for the 
 benefit of officials visiting the district. 
 
 From the verandah of the house the scene, which could be 
 leisurely watched as I comfortably rested, was one of great 
 
IN SUMATRA. 185 
 
 interest. Across the river the village of Pengandonan glinted 
 through the palms; the villagers were constantly going to or 
 returning with loads of fruit and vegetables from the fields in 
 little boats, or poling up and down or across the river on 
 narrow rafts of five or six short bamboos lashed together; 
 there was a constant stream of women and children either to 
 bathe or to wash rice or to fill with water the basketful of 
 bamboos slung behind them. As every one wore more or less 
 brightly-coloured garments and cylindrical hats painted with 
 dragon’s-blood red, the scene had no lack of colour or life to 
 make it a pleasing one. When the rain-torrents brought the 
 river down in flood, as it did about once a day, the scene was 
 still more lively. The whole population, men, women, and 
 children, swarming out like a disturbed ants’ nest, with 
 creels, hampers, baskets and nets, dashed in up to the very 
 eyes, where the force of the stream was broken a little, to 
 scrape the bottoms and sides of the river for the fish (which 
 have taken refuge there out of the current), allowing them- 
 selves the while to be floated down the stream for some dis- 
 tance; then, running up stream again, shouting and laughing, 
 they dashed in for another and another bout. ‘These floods 
 sometimes quite cut me off from communication with the 
 opposite side; and as my cooking was all performed in the 
 village, I was constrained sometimes to go dinnerless to bed. - 
 When a few hours’ rain is sufficient to flood the river so as to 
 bring down fruits, branches, large trees and (as I saw on one 
 occasion) a broad slice of ground with the bamboos growing 
 on it, one who has not seen it can but faintly imagine the 
 volume and power of such a river after the incessant rain of 
 several days. 
 
 A curious feature of this place was the abrupt hills of 
 which I have spoken. Composed of calcareous crystalline 
 rocks, probably of Hocene age, they appear to have been in 
 ancient times the boundaries of the ocean in which was laid 
 down what is now the plain of Eastern Sumatra. ‘The Peak 
 of the Riang, the most abrupt of them all, is the highest land 
 between itself and the coast, distant in a direct line one hun- 
 dred and twenty miles, and commands a magnificent panorama 
 of a long stretch of the Ogan valley, running between deep 
 barriers, the sun-flash on whose surface guided the eye all 
 
185 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 along its winding course till it disappeared through a narrow 
 rocky gateway into the blue sea-like plain of Palembang. 
 Below, fields of young corn, dotted with small watch-huts 
 which were so utterly embowered in Convolvulacex that they 
 seemed to be simply immense bunches of yellow and purple 
 flowers, covered the rich flats all along both banks, and 
 might themselves have marked out the course of the river by 
 
 
 
 TATA BUBUR-TALAM. 
 
 their luxuriant verdure. The Pangeran owned rice-fields, 
 partly inherited, partly purchased, which he informed me 
 were worth £20,000. He reckoned, however, that his income, 
 from cotton and coffee and other fruits, but principally from 
 buffaloes, was greater than from his rice-fields. 
 
 ‘he houses of the Ogan people were all richly carved, and 
 the ornamentation is said to be peculiar to their own valley. 
 
 
 
 TATA SIMBAR AND TATA AWAN. 
 
 The Semindo men (a district lying about a day’s journey 
 to the west) are credited with the invention of the designs; 
 but the Palembangers, who are famous workers in wood, are 
 generally the builders, and accommodate each district with 
 the style of “tata” or ornamentation peculiar to itself, which 
 it has retained for generations. The accompanying sketches 
 will illustrate the designs most in vogue. On the lowermost 
 
‘MVadd DNVIU AHL WONT ATTIVA NVONO AHL NMOG YNIMOOT 
 
 "981 abnd s00f OF 
 
 
 
— ES wekerien ts 
 
 POP ET tee sse 
 
 * 
 
 eee) 
 
 . tenet; ; 
 
 r 
 
 
 
IN SUMATRA. 187 
 
 beam, or Taclan-luan, that resting on the pillars, we have the 
 carving represented on page 186, and called tata bubur-talam ; 
 the second tigure represents the carving on the Pahatan, or 
 the lower beam of the framework of the house; where the 
 tata simbar commences the designs, followed by the tata 
 awan, which either continues the 
 whole length of the beam alter- 
 nately reversed till it is closed 
 again by a second tata simbar, or 
 both are used throughout alter- 
 nately erect and reversed. The 
 interior of the raised portion is 
 either left uncarved or is adorned 
 with the foliage and flowers, of 
 which the outlines appear in the 
 design. This is the Ogan pattern 
 par excellence. On the door-posts TATA RAMO-RAMO. 
 
 I found in some houses tata ramo- 
 
 ramo (ramo means, wild beast) which is not true Ogan, but 
 adopted from the Semindo people, and it is extremely interest- 
 ing to observe how effective an ornament has resulted from 
 the representation of a tiger or some such animal, in which the 
 
 
 
 
 
 SEMINDO CARVING—TATA OTAR GAMOOLUNG—ON A HOUSE 
 IN PENGANDONAN. 
 
 eye has become a floral ornament, and the legs and tail have 
 developed into scrolls. 
 
 On the last day of my stay here I spent a forenoon with my 
 host in seeing the sports still going on at the neighbouring 
 village of Luntar, which were preliminary to a feast which 
 was to close the some twenty days’ festivities—a sort of 
 high pagan mass for the rest of the soul of its Chief's father. 
 In the village was collected a large crowd from surround- 
 ing margas and even from as far as Palembang, the scene 
 
188 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 resembling a village feeing fair at home. At the outskirts 
 we came on small booths for the sale of eatables, fruits, and 
 sweetmeats; but everywhere else each little crowd had in 
 its nucleus a gaming-table of some sort. First favourite was 
 a stall where a mat spread on the ground was marked off into 
 various denominations of staking, odd or even, and on any 
 number up to five. Its presiding genius, with a countenance 
 as stolid as the most approved banker at a roulette table, 
 squatted on the ground with a saucer before him, on which 
 he twirled the fatal teetotum, and with a most. professional 
 air covered it up with half a cocoa-nut shell so that it 
 might run fair. When the “gentlemen” had all done staking, 
 he lifted the lid with a flourish, declared the fates, paid 
 his losses, and gathered in his little pile of gains, without 
 moving a muscle of his face. He was a Palembanger, this 
 sedate banker, with a sharp eye and a cruel expression of 
 countenance, and, having learned wisdom, doubtless, among 
 the comers and goers of that great commercial centre, he had 
 come up the water to operate on the simple natives here. His — 
 stall was constantly surrounded by an eager crowd of patrons, 
 ranging in age from eight years to forty harvests, who staked 
 with untiring zeal various sums, from the two-fifths part of a 
 penny up to two or three shillings. Games of chance of a 
 like nature were going on in all directions; but I moved on to 
 witness the heroic sport—the noble and national game of the ~ 
 country—Nyabung, or cock-fighting. 
 
 The cock-pit, or Galanggan, was a large enclosure some 
 twenty feet square, railed in by stakes twelve to fourteen feet 
 high, sufficiently far apart to enable those outside to see all 
 that went on within. The cocks about to fight were handed 
 over to the care of two officials, whose office is to direct affairs 
 in the ring. By them were attached with scrupulous care long 
 double-edged steel spurs, sharp as lances. As soon as the 
 sound of the bedoog announced that this arena was to be 
 occupied again, all other sports were instantly deserted, and the 
 crowd pressed round the Galanggan. The cocks were brought 
 into the ring by the proper officials, each holding his bird 
 carefully with its leg armatures sheathed. Into this enclosure 
 no one but the officials, the owners, and some favourite few 
 were admitted. The two cocks were then held up before each 
 
IN SUMATRA. 189 
 
 
 
 other by the gulangs, who ruffled for them their neck fea- 
 thers, tugged their combs, patted them on the breast and sides, 
 and shook them with a tremulous sort of instigating motion, 
 performed with a knack and neatness which indicated the pro- 
 fessional hand. This manceuvre whose execution is the envy 
 of onlookers, is imitated by the children in the miniature 
 cockerel fights that they get up before they are old enough to 
 speak. When the fowls had been thus irritated they were 
 allowed, while still in the hand, to have one dig at each other 
 just to put them on their mettle, and with their terrible 
 armatures bared, they were set facing each other, a few feet 
 apart; and then came the charge. I shall never forget—for I 
 was utterly unprepared for it from the stolid Malay—the yell 
 and deafening shout of savage delight and excitement that 
 arose from the up to that moment mute and eager but, to all 
 appearance, unexcited crowd as the combatants rushed at each 
 other, and which was kept up all the time the conflict lasted ; 
 nor how the gulangs, following on hands and knees, each close 
 behind his fowl, watched each movement in silence with a 
 elaring and excited eye—the rules of the ring prohibiting them 
 from touching or reinstigating the cock during the continu- 
 ance of a round—like nothing I can think of so much as the 
 intense motions of a pointer close behind a warm scent, and 
 at every onset they scanned their bird from side to side to see 
 if it had sustained any injury. In the first combat that I 
 witnessed both cocks were badly wounded in the first round ; 
 one eyen fainted away. ‘The seconds and supporters carried 
 each their bird aside to apply restoratives, if possibly they 
 might be able to continue the contest to a final issue. They 
 bathed its head with cold water and administered some with a 
 feather down its throat; a cloth was held over it to keep off the 
 sun, and smoking pieces of wood held under its nostrils and 
 over its comb. Jor atime it seemed as if the worst wounded 
 would have to be declared vanquished, as it was unable to 
 enter the lists, but his spirit came again on instigating him 
 with a strange cock for a few minutes. After the same 
 preliminary patting and facing and the solitary dig, they 
 were again allowed to rush at each other; but after a few 
 skirmishes the badly wounded bird turned tail and was 
 declared the loser. In the second of the only two fights I ever 
 
190 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 witnessed the combat was very short, but very fierce. Both 
 birds were sorely wounded at the commencement, but in a 
 short space one rolled over mortally wounded, with a gash in 
 its side through which the four fingers could be passed. After 
 both fights there was immediately heard the clinking of 
 money, and a general rush to the Balai was made to settle 
 their bets. Often £30 to £40 may be laid on a cock; and 
 in a day’s gaming as much as £200 has been known to 
 change hands. 
 
 Cock-fighting is now strictly prohibited by the Govern- 
 ment, which, only on special occasions, gives for a limited 
 number of days permission to the chief of a marga to hold a 
 tournament within his district, and for whose good conduct 
 he is responsible. He is allowed to charge five per cent. on all 
 transactions which take place, and a fee from all stall-holders 
 as a sort of recompense for directing the affair and keeping 
 order. With this percentage the Pangeran is able to provide 
 a buffalo at little cost to himself, which is slain on the last day | 
 of this Vanity Fair, and followed by a general gormandising. 
 From the nature of this whole entertainment one may hope 
 that the dead Pangeran advance a full stage in bliss. 
 
 The heavy rains that had delayed me several days here 
 having cleared somewhat, I proceeded on my way northwards ; 
 and, crossing the watershed of the Ogan, descended into 
 the valley of the Inim, a large tributary of the Lamatang, 
 another of the great branches of the Palembang river. The 
 village customs in each of these great valley systems differ 
 but slightly from each other; yet each has some distinctive 
 characteristic; each has its own style of architecture; and 
 each its own pattern of garments and hat-ornamentation. In 
 religion the Inim people are Mahomedans. They bury their 
 dead, however, in one large mound with the head east- 
 wards; the women he alongside their husbands, but the chil- 
 dren are buried anywhere their parents may wish, only never 
 in the village mound. 
 
 It was interesting to note how the navigability of the 
 rivers influence the people even far inland. In these reaches 
 I found Islamism of a purer form, and the people more 
 learned in civilised ways; while in the upland regions not 
 geographically distant, such as Kisam, Makakau, Semindo 
 
IN SUMATRA. Tork 
 
 
 
 and the Blalau districts, which I had just traversed—high 
 plateaus with which communication is difficult—the people 
 still followed the pagan superstitions of past ages, and con- 
 tinued the customs and rites of their great-great forefathers 
 with little change. 
 
 Passing through the village of Darma, where I noted with 
 curiosity the skulls of divers species of animals nailed to the 
 gable end of a house, which pertained, I was informed, to its 
 Pangeran’s Tukang-binatang, or gamekeeper—a fact I might 
 have guessed without asking (had I imagined that Pangerans 
 had among their retinue such an official), since I was myself 
 an inhabitant of a land where his professional brother hangs 
 out as marks of his prowess a signboard just as barbarously 
 garnished with the bodies of owls and hawks, weasels and 
 inoffensive little squirrels, and every rare feathered bird that 
 visits his neighbourhood. 
 
 I halted for the night at Muara Inim, a large village at 
 the confluence of the Inim with the Lamatang and one of the 
 important centres of commerce and civilisation in the Resi- 
 dency. Once a week a small steamer comes here—120 miles 
 from the coast—bringing mails and passengers and all the 
 merchandise for the north-western Highlands of Palembang. 
 It is the starting-point of the main cross-country road to 
 Bencoolen and Padang, which after crossing the Inim ascends 
 the western bank of the Lamatang through a rather monoto- 
 nous strip of country, which I beguiled by examining the coal 
 bands (of Pliocene age) that crop out at various points in the 
 clayey marls on the roadside. Suddenly turning the corner 
 near the village of Merapi, the traveller comes face to face 
 with one of the most singular and picturesque mountains of 
 Sumatra—the Cerillo Peak—which, though high, is, owing 
 to the configuration of the country, not seen till one is close 
 at its base. 
 
 The Cerillo is a tall conical mountain on a somewhat nar- 
 row base, rising irregularly till about 800 or 1000 feet from its 
 summit, when it suddenly contracts into an inaccessible acute 
 spire, like a gigantic finger pointing heavenward. I was not 
 surprised to be told that among an ignorant people its singular 
 shape had invested it with superstitious dread. The natives 
 make long pilgrimages to it to speak with the Dewa that they 
 
192 A NATURALIST ’S WANDERINGS 
 
 believe resides there, ascending to the highest accessible spot, 
 where incense is offered and other ceremonies performed. 
 
 A little farther on, as I neared the village of Lahat, the summit 
 of the voleano of the Dempo whither I was bound, raised its 
 head in the distance. After resting for a couple of days in the 
 town, enjoying the hospitality of Mr. Van Houten, the Resident 
 of the district, I pressed on north-westward. After a journey 
 of afew hours up the Lamatang valley I entered, on climbing 
 out of the gorge on to its high bank, a landscape with en- 
 tirely new features. J looked out on what appeared to be an 
 immense white sandy plain, which in reality was the plateau 
 of the Passumah Lands, covered with grass, but with scarcely a 
 trace of a tree anywhere—one of the singular features of this 
 region, and one by no means common in the tropics. It is said 
 that for at least 300 years there has been no forest here; but 
 that previously, however, there were trees which had been 
 destroyed by a great fire. That a conflagration should have 
 burned up such an immense tract, leaving no clumps or unin- 
 jured seeds of any kind in the soil to start a second crop of 
 arboreal vegetation, seems very doubtful. In Ceylon however, 
 in the midst of great forest regions, there occur tracts, marked 
 off with singular sharpness from the surrounding forest, in 
 which no trees are to be found. Perhaps the bareness of this 
 plateau may be the result of some such train of circumstances, 
 or perhaps it may owe its peculiarity to the effect of eruptions 
 of the overshadowing volcano, towards which the plateau slopes 
 gently upwards. 
 
 At noon I reached the first of those singular gorges which 
 are another characteristic feature of the plateau. Its sides 
 descended precipitously to the bed of a small river which was 
 running in a narrow channel cut through the solid rock, on 
 which the marks of the former levels of its water were plainly 
 graved, and descended under a narrow bridge that spanned it 
 in a series of pretty cascades. A few miles farther, on taking 
 a sharp turn of the road, I suddenly found myself on the brink 
 of a precipice over whose edges I could dizzily see, more than 
 500 feet sheer below me, the foaming Endicat river spanned 
 by a picturesque roofed bridge. Till close on the edge of the 
 precipice it was impossible for the eye to detect the slightest 
 sign of a gorge; it roamed over what seemed a nearly level 
 
IN SUMATRA. 193 
 
 country. The descent and ascent were made by long difficult 
 corkscrew paths cut in the face of cliffs, that were densely 
 clothed with trees which from the steepness of the slope 
 clung close to its sides. On again gaining the level of the 
 plateau, and looking back from a little distance, the eye 
 ranged over the chasm without perceiving any trace of it. 
 This scenery recalled the descriptions I had read of the 
 singular canons of the Yellowstone River in North America. 
 At frequent intervals over all the plateau I passed tabats or 
 lakelets of various sizes, the result probably of slight subsi- 
 dences of the ground which, curiously enough, are full of fish, 
 though they have often no river running out of them. The 
 same afternoon I reached Bandar, and the next day held on to 
 the village of Pagar Alam. 
 
 From Pagar Alam to my destination at the little village of 
 Pau, lying 3500 feet above the sea level on the slope of the 
 Dempo, where it begins to raise its majestic mass more erectly, 
 was but a forenoon’s march. The village of Pau was very 
 small, and its Balai of minute dimensions. Without an hour’s 
 delay, however, I set about enlarging and rendering it habit- 
 able. By the combined efforts of the greater portion of the 
 inhabitants of two villages which lay within a few minutes’ 
 walk, we floored the place, railed off a part for a sleeping 
 apartment and fitted a bed into it, furnished the outer portion 
 with a table and a door, which we made out of that blessedest 
 of all the vegetable productions of a toolless and saw-mill-less 
 land, the bamboo; and before night I had unpacked all my 
 baggage, books, and apparatus, and settled into my neat abode 
 with feelings of the utmost satisfaction and contentment after 
 my thirty-five days’ march. The village lay on the road 
 leading to Bencoolen, and as once a week a large market was 
 held near Pagar Alam, I had an opportunity of seeing not a 
 few of the people of the districts towards the sea-coast, as 
 they came often to the markets in the way of trade, and 
 often passed a night in the village. As a sort of good- 
 will exhibition towards the villagers, and a return for their 
 hospitality they would often give a musical performance, or 
 engage in a dance. One of the latter interested me much. 
 The dance itself was very much like the Lampong dances, 
 calm and attitudinal, but with the addition of lighted tapers, 
 
 O 
 
194 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 fixed in small saucers held in the hands. The seriousness, 
 however, of the performance was enlivened by the introduction 
 of a comical element. Closely imitating in an exaggerated 
 manner all the motions of the dancer, but affecting to keep 
 in his rear and out of sight, was another dancer simulating the 
 fool, who was quite ignored as if entirely unperceived by the 
 principal performer, but at whose remarks, gestures, and 
 grimaces, all the people laughed heartily. Here we had the 
 simple elements of the theatrical performance—an embryo 
 play with two performers. | 
 
 When one asks a Passumah man whence his forefathers 
 came in the Tempo-dulu, in the days of yore, the reply is 
 often either from Dewa, or from the sun, or from Alexander 
 the Great (Sekander Alam); but to. most of them the matter 
 is shrouded in mystery. Hearing, however, of a chief of 
 a distant village specially learned in these matters, I sent 
 for him to come to visit me. He was the son of a very high 
 chief in their independent days, and as such, the history of 
 the Passumah Lands had been instilled into him from a boy, 
 as part of the education that belonged to his rank. I found 
 him wonderfully versed in all the old ways and customs of 
 the Passumah people, and my only regret is that I had not 
 then the knowledge on which to found many questions which 
 T should now lke to know replies to. I wrote down from his 
 lips many of their strange ceremonial formulas, which are 
 difficult to find nowadays save inscribed on some old bamboo 
 or lontar-leaf, which may have happily survived the ravages of 
 the boring beetle and the frequent village fires. Not the 
 least curious was his account of the creation: How different 
 sorts of birds, with curious but not meaningless names, pro- 
 duced eggs from which in the fulness of time escaped the 
 solid earth and the sky, the moon, the stars and the sun; then 
 the grass plains and the forests, the sandy shore and the coral ; 
 how the sky wept and there came the rains and the deep sea ; 
 how then the Dewas were, and the hierarchy of good gods and 
 the company of evil spirits; how the Dewas reproduced and 
 marriage was; Adam married with Uwo (Eve?), the earth 
 married with the sky, and the mist with the clouds and Allah 
 gave conception to all things. 
 
 The Passumah people are a tall strong race, with well and 
 
IN SUMATRA. 195 
 
 
 
 
 
 intelligently moulded faces ; the nose with a rather prominent 
 and straight dorsum, the eyes sunk deeply in the head, the 
 cheek-bones projecting, but without the prominent thick lips 
 so distinctive of the Malay face. ‘They are very independent, 
 somewhat surly in heart and desperately lazy people; not 
 very friendly inclined to their neighbours in the adjoining 
 districts. ‘They are by no means dishonest, and live peace- 
 fully among themselves. Their children are lively and 
 amused with little; but neither of their parents trouble them- 
 selves much about them after they are old enough to run 
 about by themselves. They were rather afraid to allow me to 
 submit their length and breadth to the test of the measur- 
 ing-line, dreading lest the measure of their bodies should 
 
 CARER 
 i (A AN 
 
 KR Keak AK 
 AD AOA\ 
 
 Resin 
 
 AY 
 
 \) \ \\ 
 is ph . 
 
 > 
 RAR YR) 
 > * PANO 
 eli 
 
 
 
 PASSUMAH BRACELETS OF SILVER, SHOWING THE ORNAMENTATION DERIVED 
 FROM THE YOUNG SHOOTS OF THE BAMBOO. 
 
 bear some sinister relation to the span of their existence. 
 After giving, however, the most pacifying assurances, I found 
 ten men and five women bold enough to risk the danger. 
 The average height of the men was 5 feet 4:15 inches, the 
 length of his arm 11°23 inches, and of his forearm to the tip 
 of his longest finger 2 feet 5-1 inches, while in the women the 
 corresponding measurements were, 5 feet 0°75 inches in stature, 
 11°35 inches in length of arm, and 2 feet 3°85 inches of 
 forearm. ‘The tallest man was 5 feet 8:25 inches, and the most 
 herculean of the women 5 feet 2°75 inches. 
 
 The men dress as in other districts. The women, especially 
 the maidens, are strong, well proportioned and well developed ; 
 many of them are very good-looking, having, what is rare among 
 
 02 
 
196 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 the Malay races, characteristically marked red cheeks. They 
 wear usually only one garment, a loin-cloth fastened below the 
 breasts and reaching to the middle of the thigh. Their arms are 
 decked from the wrist to the elbow with tiers of silver bracelets, 
 and the lower joint of every finger with as many rings as it 
 can hold, but they did not exhibit any delicate ideas about | 
 spoiling their lustre, and, notwithstanding the incongruity 
 of the combination, I have often seen them grubbing up roots 
 with their jewelled fingers, and filling baskets with earth to 
 the clang of their bracelets. 
 
 Marriage between members of the same villas or village 
 cluster is prohibited among the Passumah peoples in some. 
 districts even those of the same marga are within the bonds of 
 consanguinity recognised by them. The two forms already 
 described at page 151 as practised in the Lampongs I found 
 existing here also: the one by simple purchase; the other 
 (ambil-anak) by which the father of the bride adopts his son- 
 in-law into his family, more as a slave, however, than as a 
 son.* ‘The position of.the man married by the latter arrange- 
 ment recalls in his utter subserviency to the woman—her 
 property never passing to him as long as the marriage bond 
 remains, and his children always hers—the insignificant and 
 pitiable position of the paterfamilias among the Egyptians 
 under the Ptolemies, in which “the woman owned all and 
 ruled all; the man was a helpless dependant. Asa child he 
 was the property of his mother and as a married man the 
 pensioner of his wife.” f 
 
 On the day of the marriage the youth and his bride come’ 
 before the Head of the village, who is.as it were both king and 
 priest. After offering to the Dewa incense of benzoin, and 
 sprinkling over them rice yellowed with curcuma powder, he 
 reads what may in truth be called their marriage service, a 
 long and singular formula of great interest, called “Sawé 
 berdindin,” which I had the good fortune to obtain a copy of 
 in the rentjong character inscribed on a bamboo. It is a 
 
 * This is really a remnant of the ancient Matriarchal System, in which 
 descent followed in the female line. Consult ‘Over de Verwantschap en het 
 Huwelijksen Erfect bij de Volken van den Indischen Archipel,” by G. A. 
 Wilkin, also Midden Sumatra, by Prof. P. J. Veth. 
 
 i The Times: “ Buried Treasure’ "—Jan. 1882. 
 
IN SUMATRA. 197 
 
 
 
 sort of invocation to all their pagan pantheon, among whom 
 one is invoked as dwelling within the Nine Mists, to bestow 
 their blessing on the union. 
 
 Another of their curious customs I saw performed during 
 my stay in the village. It happened that a young girl had 
 fallen clandestinely with child (an offence of great magni- 
 tude among them) whose father it was incumbent on the 
 chief of the village to discover and report to the chief of his 
 marga. <A court, consisting of these two officials with the 
 chiefs of the two neighbouring villages, was consequently 
 called together in the Balai in which I was staying. The 
 girl was summoned to appear, and, accompanied by her 
 mother, she took her place on a mat before the chiefs. 
 The head of her village, having seated himself on the ground, 
 prostrated himself before a little incense-holder of burning 
 benzoin, and chanted an invocation to various of their deities, 
 concluding with—“Ye Beings who regulate the universe, 
 make it clear whose is the fault.” “Then, in the midst of dead 
 silence, he scattered over the girl some handfuls of yellowed 
 rice-grains, and demanded the name of the partner of her 
 crime. She replied, giving the name of some one in a 
 distant village, and, being warned to speak the truth, she 
 declared: “ Banish me if you will, hang me if you will, kill 
 me if you will, I can say no other—that is the truth.” This 
 finished the inquisition. Next morning a commission consist- 
 ing of the chiefs who had formed the court with several armed — 
 villagers, set out, accompanied by the girl, to bring her 
 charge against the village whose member had brought dis- 
 grace on theirs. If the person named by the girl should on 
 his oath deny the charge, the case nowadays is carried before 
 the magistrate of the district. In other days it was referred 
 to the arbitrament of war or of the Dewa, who would certainly 
 afflict the perjurer or his (or her) village ; but, for the purifi- 
 cation of the disgraced Kampong, the deity had to be invoked 
 over a sacrificed buffalo. The woman would secretly as her 
 time approached disappear from the village ; and when, after a 
 space, she returned she would come alone. If the person 
 named by the girl accepted the charge, as he did in this 
 case, and was willing by either of the modes of marriage 
 practised among them to make her his wife, both villages, 
 
198 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 as well as the Dewa, are supposed on his paying a small fine 
 to be satisfied. 
 
 The people of the Passumah are pagans; but their pagan- 
 ism.is throughout tinged in form and utterance with Maho- 
 medanism, which in former times may have spread to a 
 slight extent among them. They have no priests. They 
 believe in Dewas, who inhabit the volcanoes and the deep 
 forests, and also in the avenging power of the spirits of their 
 forefathers if they transgress the old customs set by them. 
 In times of difficulty and perplexity they ascend to the margin 
 of the crater, and in the cold of that elevated spot they pass 
 one or more nights; and once in every three years a company 
 from the villages repairs to burn incense, and sacrifice to the 
 Dewa some animal on the Sawah (as they name a spot just 
 below the present cone), which must have been the floor of 
 an old crater before the upheaval of the present one. They 
 believe in the power of forms of words, and in the posses- 
 sion of spells. When a youth goes away on a journey he 
 leaves with the object of his affections an inscribed bamboo, 
 which she daily reads (if she is able to do so), to secure his 
 fidelity to her and success in his undertaking ; she then drinks 
 a draught of water from it, so that the spell may amalgamate 
 with her own self. In the roofs of their houses they secrete 
 bamboos with various inscriptions to ward off sickness, and to 
 cure it when it enters the dwelling. The swrat bantal, a 
 prayer inscribed on blades of bamboo, placed below the pillow, 
 will insure for a mother safe delivery ; and, when her infant will 
 not cease crying, the repeating of its contents will still it. 
 When an aged person is very sick, and cannot possibly recover, 
 but yet lingers long at the threshold of death, they possess 
 another formula, whose reading will release the dying spirit 
 in peace. 
 
 The place they hold in most reverence is the grave of the 
 Nené Poyang, or stem father of the Passumah, over which their 
 most binding oaths are taken; to perjure themselves on it 
 would be equal to sealing their doom. If there be a dispute 
 between two people of the same or of different villages, both 
 retire, accompanied by their respective chiefs, to this sacred spot, 
 where a fowl or a sheep or a buffalo, according to the gravity 
 of the affair, is killed, which after being cut up into small pieces, 
 
IN SUMATRA. 199 
 
 is cooked in a great pot. Then he who is to take the oath 
 holding his hand, or a long kriss of the finest sort, over the grave- 
 stone and over the cooked animal, says: “If such and such be 
 not the case, may I be afflicted with the worst evils.” The whole 
 of the company then partake of the food. Ifthe man has sworn 
 falsely they believe that in a short time after he will be seized 
 with some dire sickness, and will die; if he plants his fields 
 they will not grow, or will produce barren stems ; but not only 
 will he himself be crushed by misfortune, but, in an affair of 
 magnitude, all who were of his village who ate of the feast, if 
 not the village also, will be overtaken by disaster. The people 
 of Passumah Ulu Manna, which lies between the broad 
 Passumah and the town of Manna on the sea-coast, have the 
 same origin as those of. the broad Passumah, and consequently 
 their most solemn oath must be taken over the same grave. 
 Now where a cause is before the magistrate, and it is necessary to 
 swear a witness, it costs a journey of some twenty days. ‘There 
 has been brought, however, I am told, a stone from the grave of 
 their ancestor to the court of the magistrate, which the people 
 respect and swear over. Onecanperceive that ere long the oath 
 of the district may be sworn over any stone, and in time to 
 come it may be forgotten why they swear over a stone at all. 
 
 When a man dies his body is brought into the Balai and there 
 laid out by the head man of the village, with various ceremo- 
 nial observances, accompanied by a certain form of words, 
 differing with, and appropriate to, each act, their ritual for 
 the dead. Having wound a cord about the body, he takes the 
 dead man’s head between his hands, and rolls it gently from 
 side to side; the teeth are rubbed with a piece of sapotaceous 
 wood; the tongue is pulled forward and touched with it, the 
 nostrils and the ears also; the eyelid is raised to permit a 
 last look; the arm is rotated by turning the forefinger ; each 
 toe and finger is flexed; the nails are gently scraped; the 
 juice of a lemon is squeezed over the body, which is finally 
 sprinkled with water and wrapped in white cloth. The dead 
 are buried without the village in a square plot—men, women, 
 and children side by side, or they are placed in some unre- 
 membered spot quite in the wilderness. “ Are they not dead? 
 That is the end of them, and what is the good of knowing 
 more about them.” 
 
200 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 On inquiring where the dead go, I received the following 
 answer: “ We Ulu men (living near the sources of the rivers) 
 do not follow the custom of the sea-coast people. They say 
 that when their people die they go to a great field, flat and 
 without any trees, on which the hot sun pours day and night. 
 There they have to remain day and night, roasting (panganq), 
 for a long, long time, reading day and night the Koran. After 
 a time Allah comes along with a great umbrella over him, 
 attended by a large company. ‘Those that have learned best 
 he calls to walk with him in the shade of his umbrella; those 
 
 
 
 MONOLITH AT TANGERWANGL ; PASSUMAH LANDS. 
 
 that have failed to learn all that they ought are beaten up 
 in a great mortar, and sent back somewhere on earth, whence 
 after a trial they ave again transported to the baking field, 
 where a time is allowed to them to perfect themselves, when, 
 if they have made proper use of their opportunities they are 
 at last called under the great shade; but if, after all these 
 triais, they have failed to learn, they are beaten to dust in 
 the mortar and blown away. We Ulu men do not know if 
 this is so or not, aud we wonder how they know, for we have 
 never heard of any one who has come back to tell them. We 
 
IN SUMATRA. . 201 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ulu men do not know whither we go, but the breath that 
 goes out of the mouth is lost two arms’ length away, and we 
 
 believe that we mix with the wind and follow it wherever it 
 
 goes; and our bodies certainly rot away.” 
 
 Some of the most interesting objects in the Passumah Lands 
 are the sculptured figures found in so many parts of it. ‘The 
 greater number of these are so broken and defaced that no 
 satisfactory result can come from their examination. They 
 have been ascribed to Hindoo origin by at least one writer. 
 
 
 
 
 
 MONOLITH DISINTERRED BY THE AUTHOR AT TANGERWANGE 
 
 Hearing that there existed two of these “men turned to stone ” 
 at ‘Tangerwangi not far from my camp, I paid them a visit. 
 I found them to be immense blocks of stone, in excellent 
 preservation, which could certainly never have been seen by 
 the writer to whom I refer. They are carved into a likeness 
 of the human figure, in a posture between sitting and kneeling, 
 but which it is not quite easy to make out from the way in 
 which the stones are lying. Besides the two of which I had 
 heard, I discovered by clearing the forest, first a third and then 
 
202 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 a fourth, both prostrate on the ground in such a way as to in- 
 dicate that they probably fell from the result of earthquakes ; 
 or by stones ejected from the volcano at whose base they had 
 stood. Each figure has a groove down the back and they 
 had apparently stood on a flat pedestal, with their backs 
 towards one centre, with their faces more or less accurately 
 to the cardinal points of the compass. The features of all four 
 are of the same type of countenance ; but the race now living 
 
 
 
 fh ir 
 fe 
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 Caf AE Diet : ai LO, CED Los £0 
 UE JZ Wy at Killie_ Ca fife y 
 a a Se a i { ee DD. ih f} 
 
 ye IN Dee) 9 
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 GO ae 
 ie TED 
 RT AA itiiy hy hi 
 ie “ity 
 SIDE VIEW OF THE FACE ON ONE OF THE MONOLITHS. 
 
 
 
 Ls 
 
 ij 
 
 in this region did not form that model, and it is equally 
 beyond question that the Hindoo features are not represented. 
 It is not certain that the Hindoos, who, as it is well known, 
 settled in some parts of Sumatra at the time of their great oc- 
 cupation of Java about 1000 B.c. ever were in the Passumah 
 lands ; but if they ever were, there is no reason for suppos- 
 ing that they should depart from their wont in Java and else- 
 where, and figure in their sculptures the lineaments of another 
 race than their own. If these stones are not the work of 
 
IN SUMATRA. 203 
 
 the Hindoos, they must have been carved by either the then 
 people of the district or by foreign sculptors. If by Passu- 
 mahers, did they depict their own features or those of another 
 race? But who these former inhabitants of the Passumah 
 were, whence these foreign artificers came, and for what these 
 sculptures were used, is shrouded in deep mystery. It is quite 
 certain also that the present inhabitants could not conceive, 
 much less execute, such works of art. 
 
 The postures are peculiar; the figures have the appearance 
 of persons bound, bearing burdens on their backs. The ringing 
 on the arms, which the natives call bracelets, must be taken, 
 I think, to represent cords, as the same marks occur also below 
 the shoulder, where it is not the custom of the Passumahers to 
 wear armlets. The eyes are immense and protruding toa great 
 degree, lending weight to this idea. The sex of the persons 
 represented is also doubtful. There is almost no tradition 
 respecting them, beyond that they are the handiwork of Sarung 
 Sakti and Lidah Pait (Bitter Tongue), who, wandering about the 
 country, turned all who displeased them into stone ; or that they 
 represent the people who in the far, far back time used to inhabit 
 this land, and who possessed tails, which the renowned ancestor 
 of the Passumah people, Atum Bungsu, cut off. Near Pagar 
 Alam, I saw also two stones, but quite of a different kind of 
 sculpture ; one was the representation of a woman sitting in 
 native fashion, with an infant on her hip in the way that their 
 children are generally carried about. Both hands support 
 the breasts, which are apparently turgid. Her features might 
 represent a Passumah woman. The other, distant a few yards 
 only, is a spirited sculpture representing two children attacked 
 by a python. The reptile is coiled about the children, one of 
 whom has fallen, while its head is partly in its mouth. The 
 action of the smaller boy, in thrusting off the snake with 
 all his strength, is natural and well designed, though some- 
 what wanting in execution. These stones differ in character 
 so much from the others at Tangerwangi, and have besides so 
 little relation one to another, that it is impossible to conceive 
 for what purpose they can have been made. The only con- 
 clusion is that a superior race, possessing considerable know- 
 ledge and refined taste, and with technical skill not possessed 
 by the natives of any part of the island at present occupied 
 
204 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 
 
 this region; but who they were and when they dwelt here is 
 absolutely shrouded in oblivion. 
 
 During my stay in the Passumah lands, the news that I was 
 an Englishman spread far, and I was several times visited by 
 people from the Passumah Ulu Manna district, which about 
 the year 1820 was under the rule of the English, having been 
 annexed to the Hast India Company’s dominions when Sir 
 Stamford Raffles held the Lieutenant-Governorship of Ben- 
 coolen. The original document, formally recognising them as 
 “subjects of the Honourable Company, and entitled to all the 
 privileges of that condition,” was brought to me by the grandson 
 of one of the chiefs with whom the treaty was then concluded, 
 carefully preserved in a bamboo case. He had heard, he said, that. 
 I was English, and he had come several days’ journey to see 
 me, for he had heard both his grandfather and his father 
 tell of the greatness of the “orang Ingris.” It was at least 
 flattering to one’s national pride to find how deep a hold 
 their rule had taken on the gratitude of the people, when 
 those of the third generation had come to extol to one of their 
 countrymen their merciful and just government, and with 
 wonderful, and of course exaggerated, tales of their liberality 
 and of the profuseness, richness, and grandeur of the Gover- 
 nor’s court. One old fellow came arrayed in one of his most 
 precious heirlooms, the English-made coat, of his grandfather, 
 of a purplish serge with steel-ring epaulets and with a curved 
 sabre bearing King George’s monogram worked on the handle. 
 He sadly bemoaned that the present Government had not con- 
 tinued to him the chieftainship of his father’s marga, and with 
 the present Passirahs it was evidently a sore matter that they 
 received no pay from the Government, when under the English 
 rule they received seventy-five rupees a month (£75 sterling a 
 year), a great sum to these people. I was very amused by the way 
 one Passirah showed me his official dress. The “ Company,” 
 that is, the present government, for the designation still con- 
 tinues—* The Company gives me this” (‘this’ with a most 
 contemptuous curl of the lips), as he exhibited his own alongside 
 the English uniform of his companion (the costume did not 
 really deserve such a curl) ; “and I have to pay five rupees for 
 this” (a narrow gold band on the right arm), “and five rupees 
 for this” (its fellow on the left), “and five for this” (on the 
 
IN SUMATRA. 205 
 
 
 
 neck). “The Ingris gave a costume like that, with a sword 
 and seventy-five rupees a month besides!” ‘They were always 
 anxious to learn from me when the English were coming back 
 again. I dare say that if the English were back, they would 
 possibly sigh for the return of the Dutch, their supposed grie- 
 vances against the dominion for the time present doubtless 
 being always sorest. It is not all lip praise, however; there 
 exists throughout the country a real belief in the absolute 
 justice in word and deed of the English people and of the 
 surpassing greatness of their nation. All the documents which 
 they showed me that were given by Raffles to their fathers had 
 invariably lost their wax seals, and, on asking what had become 
 of them, the unfailing reply was :—“ We have eaten them.” 
 Each document they believed was the token of rights and 
 privileges which could never be revoked, but which would one 
 day, though at present in abeyance, come again to them; and 
 as the seal in their estimation is the most effectual and the 
 potentest part of a Deed, they had eaten it; and somehow, 
 should the writing itself get lost, the seal at any rate had 
 become part of themselves and its potency would descend to 
 their heirs. | 
 
206 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 CHAPTER. VI. 
 SOJOURN IN THE POLEMBANG RESIDENCY—contienued. 
 
 Passumah Lands (contd.)—The Volcano of the Dempo—lIts flora and fauna— 
 The crater—Spectre of the Broeken—The view from the summit—Leave 
 for the Kaba Volcano—Gunung Meraksa—River journey on a raft— 
 Lampar— Find again the spider Ornithoscatoides decipiens — Batu- 
 pantjeh—A marriage scene—Games of the boys—Houses—Tebbing- 
 Tinggi—Tandjong-ning—Great trees—My party attacked by a tiger— 
 Its wiliness—Its capture—Graveyard. 
 
 Tz chief object of interest in the Passumah Lands is its 
 volcano—the Dempo. Almost daily I explored some part of 
 its yast extent, and when I left I could have profitably spent 
 months more without exhausting its treasures. The village of 
 Pau, in which I had my quarters, was 3500 feet above the sea. 
 The first few hundred feet of the flanks of the mountain were 
 appropriated by the villagers for their coffee gardens, and the 
 few fields in which they now cultivate rice and roots. The 
 coffee-trees, despite their being densely crowded, yielded large 
 crops of a very superior kind of fruit; above these cultivated 
 fields rana broad belt of low forest consisting of a shrubbery of 
 Fluggea microcarpa and the usual broad-leaved scitamineous 
 plants, in whose damp shade balsams and white-flowered Ges- 
 neracex and hairy-leaved Begonias flourished. About 4000 feet 
 began the virgin forest, which for 2000 feet upwards displayed 
 unrivalled luxuriance, under which grew a tangled mass of 
 shrubs and thorny climbers. Crashing through these, I one 
 day nearly trampled on a fine new species of that curious 
 family, the Rafflesiacex ; it smelt powerfully of putrid flesh, 
 and was infested with a crowd of flies, which followed me all 
 the way as I carried it home, and was besides overrun with 
 ants, notwithstanding the long hairs which protected its centre. 
 In the deep shade at this elevation few flowers except from 
 the climbers and epiphytes on the trees, such as many species 
 of Melastoma oftener more rich in colour of fruit than of flower, 
 
‘WAOVISATAAVY AHL JO ATINVA AHL JO ‘VISNVMDAND JO SAIONdS MAN 
 
 ‘90z abnd aovf a7 
 
 
 

 
 i: 
 
 i) 
 
IN SUMATRA. 207 
 scarlet Aischynanthes, and occasionally a gorgeous asclepiad. 
 The varied forms and colours of the foliage, however, greatly 
 relieved the general want of flowers. From the broad leaves 
 of the Ginger family and the tangled thickets of palms, to 
 the graceful fronds of Alsophila, Cyathea and creeping Davallia, 
 to the pandans and aroids which embrace the tree trunks and 
 clothe the leafless coils of the lianes, there is a perpetual and 
 refreshing variety. Here I found a curious species of Ficus, 
 whose long stem-branches penetrated underground, where the 
 figs were produced with their orifices only above the surface. 
 
 Nothing could be finer than many of the crowns of flowers 
 of the giant trees that I was constantly felling. One of these, 
 a species of Styraw (S. subpaniculatum), was a mass of blossom 
 which scented the region of the mountain for days after I felled 
 it, and often beguiled me aside to admire even its fading beauty. 
 
 At 4800 feet I gathered the first ericaceous plants, as 
 climbing shrubs on the tops of the highest trees; and some 500 
 feet higher the ground was strewed with great blossoms four 
 to five inches in diameter, from the Gordonia excelsa, a giant of 
 the Ternstroemacex, or Tea family. At 6000 feet the region of 
 troublesome and irritating rattans and of Pychosperma palms 
 was passed, and I entered a forest of more slender trees, 
 with still many grand fern-loaded specimens among them, 
 especially belonging to the Myrtle family as their fallen 
 corollas indicated. At 7000 feet, near the half-way camp 
 I had erected, a patch of tall Pandan trees occurred on the 
 sides of a gorge, but nowhere else on the mountain. Here, 
 flitting over the fallen logs, I stalked a pretty little brown 
 hill-wren (Pnoepyga pusilla), which started on the slightest 
 motion into a hole or crevice, and when at last wounded it 
 took refuge in a burrow two yards long, whence it had to be 
 dug out. This species was known before only from the 
 Himalayas and Tenasserim till it was discovered in this island 
 on the Padang mountains by Dr. Beccari; but my Dempo 
 specimen was the first that had been seen in England. 
 Besides herds of elephants, an occasional Siamang, and 
 many tigers, mammalian life did show itself on the mountain. 
 The long grey-beard lichens now covering the trees were an 
 indication of the dampness of the atmosphere. Here a red- 
 stemmed Begonia grew in the utmost luxuriance, intermingling 
 
208 A NATURALIST ’S WANDERINGS 
 
 with a white species of honeysuckle (much visited by a fine 
 erey-haired humble-bee (Bombus senex)), and which together 
 formed a white flower-dotted field that accompanied us for more 
 than 700 feet of ascent. At 7700 feet there was a marked 
 decrease in the amount of flowers and fruit that the half-tree, 
 half-shrub vegetation produced, whose foliage, I remarked, 
 was of a more or less crisp and brittle texture. At 8000 feet 
 my eyes were gladdened by the sight of a most lovely orchid 
 epiphytic on the trees, which is apparently the true Dendrobium 
 secundum ;* its colour, which could not fail to catch the eye 
 of the most unobservant, was of the deepest purple or mauve- 
 pink, and its bells, suspended by a double-curved petiole of 
 a graceful form, hung in clusters of twelve to fourteen from 
 the tip of the stems. It is impossible of course to describe 
 the colour, but it was of the richest tint; the whole flower 
 was of the same colour, save one bright orange spot in the 
 throat of the labellum. For 200 feet upwards the trees were 
 profusely spangled with them, and it was really worth an 
 arduous climb to see and to gather them. It is surprising 
 to how limited an area some plants are confined. I could 
 find no specimens of this orchid above the narrow zone I 
 have mentioned. At 8200 feet I first gathered the beautiful 
 Rasp (Rubus lineatus), which I obtained on the Malawar moun- 
 tains in Java at a considerably lower elevation. On the 
 Java mountains, from 6500 to 7000 feet, the abundance of 
 various kinds of Rasps formed a marked feature in the 
 vegetation ; here I was struck by their almost entire absence. 
 On the Tengamus in the Lampongs at the same height I had 
 met with no end of Nepenthacex, and with a beautiful orchid 
 of the genus Cymbidium, but here neither the one nor the 
 other was seen; one small scrap of a pitcher was indeed 
 brought to me from about 6500 feet, but, though I myself and 
 my hunters searched everywhere, we could find no more. 
 Here and there I now found small-leaved scraggy shrubs of a 
 species of Rhododendron (fh. magniflorum) bearing bright scarlet 
 flowers, and every further foot of ascent brought us among 
 dwarfed trees, and leaner and more scraggy shrubs, while the 
 moss on stone and stem grew deeper and deeper. At 8600 
 
 * Not the Dendrobium secundum of the horticulturists, but a different and 
 far finer species. 
 
IN SUMATRA. 209 
 
 feet I suddenly emerged on the edge of one of the many 
 gorges which deeply grooved the side of the mountain, and 
 stood clear of the tall forest. 
 
 During my progress through the lower zones few insects, 
 but some very interesting forms of birds, had been noticed. 
 Besides the species I have mentioned above, I shot a rare 
 grass warbler (Suya alligularis), previously known only from 
 Sumatra, by one example from Acheen, in the north of the 
 island ; and twittering in low bushes a little fly-catcher, not 
 before taken in this island—Culicicapa ceylonensis. At 
 0000 feet, hopping about on fallen logs, dodging in the low 
 bush tangle, a black chat-thrush (Brachypteryx atratus) with 
 a bright white line over the eye, fell to my gun, which was 
 not my luck in regard to the beautiful Paradise fly-catcher 
 (Terpsyphone affinis) which I saw—a pure white bird with 
 long black-shafted tail-feathers, named by the natives Tyjabit 
 Kapan which signifies the white cloth in which the dead are 
 wrapped, as they believe that he by whom it is seen has not 
 long to live. 
 
 At 8600 feet the tall forest suddenly ceased, and among my 
 feet I found some splended ericas of various species, the most 
 conspicuous being that which the natives have named “Tree 
 of the long age” (Kayu panjang wmoor), a new species (Vac- 
 conium forbesii), and one of the most handsome of its genus. 
 It was first met with as a shrub, low and compact, but 500 feet 
 higher it became a tree with a circumference of four feet. 
 This, with the scarlet rhododendron already mentioned, and 
 many species of ferns, monopolised the mountain up to 9000 
 feet, where I gathered, with perhaps more satisfaction still, a 
 wee species of Gentian that expanded its blue flowers on the 
 bare earthy banks. 
 
 To obtain the full pleasure of the climb, the day must be 
 perfectly clear, such as the first day of May on which I made 
 my most memorable ascent. It was one of the few absolutely 
 rainless days of my stay. When that height was attained 
 where the forest dwindled to a shrubbery, every foot of ascent 
 added to the grandeur of our outlook and to the number of 
 the peaks on peaks that came in view, along whose flanks the 
 clouds rolled upwards in white humps and scuds, in striking 
 contrast with the intense cobalt blue of their crests towering 
 
 P 
 
210 | A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 against a sky of the most delicate tint of sea-green. At 9700 
 feet, the summit of what the natives call the Dempo was 
 surmounted, whence I looked down into the Sawah, or ancient 
 crater of the mountain the site of their sacred feasts and offer- 
 ings, and across to the Merapi, or F'irepeak, a more recent cone, 
 now the true summit of the voleano. Here almost no insects, 
 except annoying swarms of blue-bottle flies, were seen ; but 
 the little White-eyes (Zosterops chlorata) which had accompa- 
 nied us all the way up, flitted about on the Vaccinium forbesit, 
 their nostrils laden with its pollen, busily performing that 
 important part in the economy of nature by which vigour is 
 added to the plants, and size and beauty to their flowers by 
 their cross-fertilisation. 
 
 A steep descent of 200 feet brought me to the Sawah (where . 
 I built a camp), whose dark brown and greyish-black sandy 
 soil emitted a powerful odour of sulphur. It was dotted every- 
 where with clumps of heaths and rhododendrons and plants 
 with crisp dark green leaves, and with white woolly-foliaged 
 species of Composite characteristic of volcanic soil (Anaphalis 
 javanica and A. sawatilis), which have a strong aromatic odour 
 somewhat like that of camomile. An infusion of its leaves 
 is supposed, from its sacred habitat (for it grows nowhere 
 else on the mountain), to possess healing powers. The slope 
 of the cone was dotted with “ Long-age” whortleberry get- 
 ting more and more stunted as we ascended, till, within 200 
 feet of the rim of the crater, it almost disappeared except as a 
 low bush of one and a-half to two feet high. The whole face 
 of the ascent was covered with loose stones and pieces of 
 pumice and scorie. 
 
 After a puffing clamber from the Sawah we gained the rim 
 of the crater, looking down some 800 feet of precipitous rock, 
 on what seemed a pure white polished mirror, set in a central 
 basin from which was slowly rising a column of steam. All 
 was quiet and placid, and I sat down a little to take in the 
 details of a scene so novel to me:—a vast circular basin half a 
 mile in diameter, with rocky sides of sheer precipices, display- 
 ing at various places horizontal strata; at the bottom of this 
 another smaller basin, some 200 feet in diameter, filled to 
 within about 30 or 40 feet of its rim with a smoking substance, 
 whose surface, like burnished silver, reflected the blue sky and 
 
IN SUMATRA. 211 
 
 every passing cloud. We had sat thus for perhaps ten to 
 twelve minutes when I noted that the centre of the white basin 
 had become intensely black, and scored with dark streaks. 
 This area gradually increased. By steady scrutiny with my 
 elass, for it was difficult to make out what was silently 
 and slowly transpiring, I at last discovered that the black- 
 ness marked the sides of a chasm that had formed in—what I 
 now perceived the white burnished mirror to be—a lake of 
 seething mud. The blackness increased. The lake was being 
 engulphed! <A few minutes later a dull sullen roar was heard, 
 and I had just time to conjecture within myself whence it 
 proceeded, when the whole lake heaved, and rose in the air for 
 some hundreds of feet, not as if violently ejected, but with 
 calm majestic upheaval; and then fell back on itself with an 
 awesome roar, which reverberated round and round the vast 
 cauldron, and echoed from rocky wall to rocky wall like the 
 surge of an angry sea; and the immense volume of steam, let 
 loose from its prison-house, dissipated itself into the air. The 
 wave circles died away on the margin of the lake, which 
 resumed its burnished face and again reflected the blue sky; 
 and silence reigned again until the geyser had gathered force 
 
 for another expiration. The roar of the coming explosion was 
 so awesome that such of my porters who had followed me, and 
 had never been to the top before, looked the picture of terror ; 
 and when the lake rose they took to their heels and fled in a 
 body. ‘Thus all day long the lake was swallowed up and 
 vomited forth, once in every fifteen to twenty minutes. That 
 it was not always so quiet even as now, the stones on the Sawah 
 and the scoriz on the sides of the cone testified. Once in about 
 every three years, and in some decades oftener, the natives 
 told me, the crops of coffee, bananas and rice were quite 
 destroyed by “sulphur-rain,’ which covered everything for 
 miles round the crater. 
 
 On its eastern side, where the rim rises to its highest eleva- 
 tion, | made a hypsometrical observation; but it required all 
 my endurance to complete it, for, though a cold wind was 
 blowing and the thermometer registered only 63° F., the 
 sun’s rays seemed to possess more than their ordinary power. 
 I could feel, with acute pain, my hands, face and neck being 
 scorched the moment they came into the sunshine. I suc- 
 
 P 2 
 
212 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 ceeded, however, in obtaining data which enabled me to 
 calculate the elevation to be 10,562 feet. 
 
 I walked round the greater part of the ring of the crater, 
 searching under the stones and among the shrubs for what 
 signs of life there might be, pausing every now and then to 
 view the extended stretch of country spread out beneath. On 
 the margin of the crater a butterfly, like our little Heaths, 
 disported itself; but it always eluded my net by simply flitting 
 over the edge; and among the Ericaceous shrubs a minute 
 moth (? Diopea), which seems able to maintain well existence, 
 although it cannot leave its foothold on the shrubs without 
 being dashed to the ground by the strong winds perpetually 
 prevailing there ; a fewsmall Ca rabide beneath the stones, and 
 other minute species swept from the bushes, represented the 
 coleopterous life. Little flocks of the small green Flower- 
 pecker (Zosterops) were the only birds seen or heard at the 
 summit; but several others were obtained in the more protected 
 Sawah, among them the Himalayan Lusceniola fuliginiventris. 
 
 As the sun began to decline the temperature decreased 
 rapidly, warning us to prepare for a cold night. After I had 
 put on triple suits of clothes, which made me feel no more 
 than comfortable, I set about directing the preparation of a 
 sheltered camp for the porters and other natives, who, unless 
 ordered would take no care to protect themselves against 
 the cold which at high elevations is so very frequently fatal 
 to them. At sunset the temperature fell to 47:2° F. The 
 night was perfectly clear, and the stars seemed to shine with 
 a brilliancy almost equal to that of our own frosty skies, 
 and to my eye certainly more clearly than I had ever seen 
 them from the tropical plains. When at 4 o’clock next 
 morning I went out into the Sawah, though the thermometer 
 registered 47° I. (the lowest reading of the night was 42°) the 
 air, which was perfectly still—its silence indeed almost over- 
 whelming—felt absolutely free from rawness in marked con- 
 trast to what I had experienced at sunset under almost the 
 same reading of the thermometer. 
 
 After a cup of hot coffee—at least as hot as it could be had at 
 an elevation of 9900 feet, that is to say, not much above 194° F., 
 we started for the summit of the cone to see the sun rise, 
 under the guidance of one of the chiefs who had accompanied 
 
IN SUMATRA. 213 
 
 me, picking our way in the dark over the stones and among 
 the bushes. We had hardly set out when a dense mist began 
 to envelop its flanks and summit, which up to this time had 
 stood out against the sky with perfect sharpness. Before we 
 were able to reach the crest we could see that the sun had 
 already come up, from the lighter glow of the mist in the east ; 
 but no view anywhere, however, could be obtained. It was 
 very cold and damp, and the thermometer did not register up 
 to seven o'clock more than 48°50° F., and even at half-past 
 seven it had fallen again to 45°50° F. Hoping that the mist 
 would clear, we seated ourselves behind a rock out of the wind to 
 watch the geyser below us; and beside one of the small 
 enclosures, or low barricades of stone a few feet in length, 
 which were dotted all along the ridge, the sleeping places, thus 
 roughly sheltered from the wind, of the devotees who come to 
 inquire of the Dewa of the mountain in times of difficulty or, 
 as my guide said, in hope of finding near them in the morning 
 some charm whose possession would protect them against harm 
 or enable them to prevail over their enemies, or to attain some 
 dear object of their desire or ambition ; “ but they often,” he 
 added, “experience nothing but the cold.” 
 
 As the sun rose a little higher and stronger, I observed on 
 the margin of the crater opposite to us a curious horseshoe- 
 shaped rainbow, and for some moments I was not aware that I 
 was witnessing a display of the Spectre of the Broeken. Hach 
 person’s shadow thrown on the mist was surrounded by a bright 
 halo outside which was a band of mist, and the whole enclosed 
 in the distinct horseshoe-shaped rainbow. At length the mist 
 entirely cleared off the mountains, and we stood gazing on a 
 wonderful scene half land and half sea, from the highest peak 
 within the sweep of the eye; but any attempt to convey a 
 picture of such varied elements can be at best but mere dis- 
 jointed suggestions. 
 
 Looking away south-east, the eye, passing over the plain of 
 Passumah Ulu Manna, laid out in rice-fields in their first 
 fresh greenness of May, and dotted with grove-environed 
 villages, falls on the white surf of the distant ocean far to the 
 south of the town of Manna, and follows it northward by its 
 forest-clad margin, on which I could even discern the tide 
 gently heaving, to beyond Bencoolen, until the meeting of 
 
214 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 seaand sky and the peaks of the Barisan draws the view along 
 the northward-stretching forest of mountain tops, with their 
 shaded valleys and endless lines and curves of beauty, all of 
 the deepest cobalt blue, deepened in hue by contrast with the 
 cloud flocks that floated athwart their flanks and summits—pro- 
 minent among them the ridges of Korintji. Nearer stood out 
 the Kaba, with its smoking top; and could that sharp cone 
 smoking on the horizon be the peak of Indrapura, with its 
 15,000 feet of stature three degrees of latitude away? From 
 its sides the eye glided to the flat forest-clad plateau of Ulu- 
 Lintang, an old inland lake-floor which lay utterly hidden 
 beneath a great cloud-sheet spread out close down on its 
 tree-tops, reflecting the sun like a mirror; thence to the distant 
 verge of the broad Passumah below the mountain, void almost 
 of trees save a few by the ravine sides and on the precipitous 
 slopes of the gorges, over which lay fringes and patches of cloud 
 demonstrating the attracting power of even a slight arboreal 
 vegetation. Out of this undulating plateau, with its waste of 
 grass, amid which its flashing tabats looked like glittering 
 specks of glass scattered over it—the eye passed to the south 
 and south-western cobalt peaks and domes of the Barisan, 
 studded with flocky hummocks, and followed them till their 
 summits projected themselves on the Indian Ocean at the point 
 where the eye commenced its survey. No art could figure to 
 the mind the light and shade, the massive sheets of colour in 
 the wide scene ; the thousand different pictures that went and 
 came that summer’s day upon the landscape’s changeless out- 
 lines. The grand yet dread thundering of the geyser at our 
 feet, the scene of peace and mystic beauty outspread in solemn 
 silence beneath and around us. ‘To have to speak or to listen 
 was an acute pain, and as distracting as a clamour of carping 
 tongues in the midst of some sweet melody or grand outburst 
 of music. As I grudgingly descended and the scene closed 
 behind me I felt that this perhaps had been an audience with 
 the Dewa of the mountain—at all events I had gained by 
 communing with Nature from this high pedestal of hers. 
 
 My future programme included a visit to the Kaba voleano, 
 to the sources of the River Rawas, and, if the Djambi people 
 did not prove too hostile, an excursion into that Sultanate. 
 As all this would at least require six months to accomplish, 
 
IN SUMATRA. 215 
 
 I was forced to draw my tent-poles in the end of May, so as to 
 reach Batavia in the beginning of the year 1882 in order to 
 prepare for my long-planned expedition to the Far East of the 
 Archipelago. 
 
 It was with the liveliest regret that I took leave of the 
 village of Pau, where I had experienced more pleasure than 
 in any other locality I had yet visited. The climate was 
 simply delicious. Hvery forenoon, at least, was bright and 
 sunny, and the heat was never too great to be oppressive or 
 disagreeable, while the evenings were cool and the nights cold 
 enough to make a blanket enjoyable. Sickness was never 
 once thought about. Altogether, but for the difficulties of 
 food supply and companionship I could have wished to reside 
 there always. In its neighbourhood I had gathered nume- 
 rous interesting birds and insects. I had added Astictopterus 
 armatus to the fauna of Sumatra, obtained Papilio diaphantus, 
 Liminitis bockii, and added to science Ixias flavipennis, and 
 species of Terias, Danais, and Kallima and many of the rarest 
 and most beautiful productions of the vegetable kingdom, 
 especially of the giant trees and among the Orchidacex and 
 Riafilesiacex. 
 
 Retracing my steps to Pagar Alam, I took my way north- 
 eastward, and, crossing the Ayer Durian which has its source 
 in the crater of the Dempo, passed out of the Passumah 
 Lands towards the Kaba. Reaching Gunung Meraksa, in the 
 cleft of the Right and Left Lintang rivers, I learned that I 
 might shorten my way to Tebbing-tinggi by taking a raft 
 journey on the river—a mode of travel I had not before tried. 
 These rafts, made of tiers of bamboo well secured together by 
 pegs and rattan ropes, with an elevated platform in the centre 
 out of the reach of water, are guided by two pilots with 
 long oars. The Lintang river was very rough and narrow, 
 interrupted at short distances by rapids over which it required 
 the greatest skill and knowledge of its rocks to guide us in 
 safety. We sailed mostly between perpendicular banks of 
 rough marls of Miocene age, against whose cliffs in many 
 places the river, descending a stony rapid, precipitated itself, 
 sweeping round its base at a right angle. The danger lay in 
 the raft’s not obeying the working of the steersman’s long stern- 
 paddle, and being dashed to pieces at these uncanny corners 
 
216 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 where the sail being rather more exciting than pleasant I used to 
 clutch my seat with a nervous grip till they were safely passed. 
 All along the river’s course every new bend presented us with 
 varying pictures—qulet stretches of smooth black water over- 
 hung with drooping trees, scenes of village life, and green 
 cultivated fields. 
 
 Ten miles down, the Lintang merged in the deep broad 
 Musi, along which we glided rapidly with a delightful motion 
 to the village of Lampar, which looked so promising a field 
 that I was induced to pitch camp for a time there to prosecute 
 my botanical work. 
 
 While here I found a second specimen of that curious spider 
 (Ornithoscatoides decipiens) which I had discovered in Java. 
 One day when my boys were procuring for me from a high tree 
 some botanical specimens, I was rather dreamily looking on 
 the shrubs before me during the moments of waiting, when I 
 became conscious of my eyes resting on a leaf marked with the 
 excreta of a bird. “ How strange it is that I have never found 
 another specimen of that curious spider I got two years ago in 
 Java, which simulated a mark just like this!” So thinking, I 
 plucked the leaf by its petiole, and looked half listlessly at it, 
 mentally remarking how very cleverly that other spider had 
 copied nature, when to my delighted surprise I found that I 
 had actually a second specimen in my hand; but the imitation 
 was so exquisite that I really did not perceive how matters 
 stood for some moments. The spider never moved while I was 
 plucking and twisting the leaf, and it was only after I placed 
 the tip of my finger on it that I observed that it was lying on 
 its back, when with the rapidest motion, but without any 
 perceptible displacement of itself it flashed its falces into 
 my flesh. I have already described the habits of this spider 
 at page 63. It was extremely interesting to find again, 
 evidently as a constant habit, that the thin web film had been 
 drawn out as if to represent some of the fluid portion of 
 the excreta arrested in a drop before it had altogether run 
 to the margin of the sloping leaf. There is no doubt that 
 the spider must have acquired this mimicking habit by natural 
 selection; yet it is difficult to explain how these minutia, 
 which are not constant or essential in the model, have come 
 to be so accurately copied; one cannot believe that it would 
 
IN SUMATRA. 217 
 
 have been a whit worse off had the copy been less minutely 
 imitated. 
 
 In the beginning of July I packed my Lanting and con- 
 tinued my journey to Batu Pantjeh, gliding down the river 
 by this delightful mode of travel, which enabled me, carrying 
 my drying-paper and frames with me, to botanise all along 
 the river-side, stopping when and where I desired. 
 
 Near this village, the country became much lower on both 
 sides, showing that we were approaching the borders of the 
 great alluvial plateau of Palembang. Among my excursions I 
 suddenly came one day on a wide area, in the deep forest, 
 overspread with coral blocks, which in some places had become 
 solidified into more or less crystalline masses like what one 
 sees in the basework of a coral reef. It was evident that they 
 were standing, as left centuries ago by the seashore where 
 they were washed through and round about by the surf; 
 here corroded into crevices and bored by molluscs, and there 
 excavated into deep pits, and surrounded with blocks of worn 
 stones as if the tide had not long retreated from this old shore 
 to-day distant as the crow flies 200 miles from the coast. Now, 
 however, great trees were shadowing them, and gigantic figs 
 twining their roots among their grateful crannies ; ferns clothed 
 with graceful fronds the wasted blocks, and Begonias blossomed 
 over them. To alter Tennyson’s well-known lines :— 
 
 There roll’d the deep where grows the tree, 
 O earth, what changes hast thou seen ! 
 
 There where the forest sleeps hath been 
 The shore line of the noisy sea. 
 
 I was detained here, by an injury to my foot, for many 
 weeks much against my will, for the half pagan half Maho- 
 medan people of the Ampat Lawang in unpleasant contrast 
 to those of the other regions I had been among, were any- 
 thing but friendly. They would neither give nor sell food 
 of any description, except a little old rice of the worst quality. 
 They even refused to carry my letters, so that I was unable to 
 make known my condition to the authorities or obtain relief till 
 I was well enough to resume my journey to complain in person, 
 when the chief of the village was rewarded according to his 
 deeds by the Magistrate. 
 
 The Batu Pantjeh houses are of a peculiar construction, com- 
 
218 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 pact and picturesque, best described by saying that they are 
 furnished in front with a broad, partly roofed verandah, fenced 
 round by a close bamboo wickerwork, nearly concealing the 
 inmates when standing erect, and protected by a strong door, 
 which is reached by a stair. With their floors on the level of 
 the verandah and their doors opening on to it, are little huts 
 built out beyond the edge of the verandah, for cooking pur- 
 poses, for keeping fowls in, for storing rice and for other con- 
 veniences, altogether forming a most convenient, commodious,. 
 and secure dwelling, below which, as usual, their store of 
 chopped wood is kept. 
 
 One morning I was awakened by a vigorous clattering of 
 sticks, accompanied by much laughter. On looking out I 
 perceived that most of the rice-blocks of the village had been 
 hauled together, and that the maidens of the place were 
 beating on them in concert a lively tattoo for some happy 
 occasion. As each block and each stamper produced a 
 different note, the resulting music was by no means inhar- 
 monious. ‘Throughout the forenoon the boys and youths, 
 lounging in groups, indulged at intervals in bursts of cheer- ~ 
 ing very like our own hurrah: “ Wood-wood-wid-aa-aa !” 
 The jubilation was on account of a marriage which was that 
 evening to be solemnised in the village. Next afternoon I 
 was again surprised by peals of “Woo-a’s!” proceeding from a 
 crowd collected near the house of the newly married pair, 
 whence shortly, amid vociferous cheering, the bridegroom 
 appeared, wearing on his head the cap of a Vice-chief of the 
 marga, dressed in a sarong suspended by a gold-buckled belt, 
 his body otherwise bare save for a sash-like cloth across his 
 chest. By his side he wore a gold-handled kriss, and carried 
 in his right hand a be-flagged lance with its tip sheathed— 
 the wedding staff. Over his head one of his young men held a 
 white umbrella, another carried his siri-box, while a drum and 
 several gongs played in advance of the procession. A little 
 behind him came the bride weeping, in a purple silk badjo and 
 a red petticoat worked with thread of gold, attended by all 
 the maidens of the village, some of whom performed for her 
 the same offices as the young men did for her husband. The 
 processions wended their way to the river, where both the bride 
 and the bridegroom were bathed by their respective attendants, 
 
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IN SUMATRA. 219 
 
 after which they returned, preceded by an old female relative 
 of the bridegroom, who spread cloths before them all the way 
 to a spot in the centre of the village. Here a couple of mats 
 a little distance apart, had been placed, on the one of which 
 the bridegroom and his relatives, and on the other the bride 
 and hers, seated themselves, each with their umbrella and 
 siri-box before them. During the intervals of music that 
 attended the ceremony, the youths of the bridegroom’s party 
 pelted, as if slily and clandestinely, with handfuls of yellowed 
 rice the bride and her attendant maidens, who returned 
 the compliment, while the fowls were enticed to pick up the 
 erains that fell on the ground. This was supposed to be an 
 invocation to the Dewa to bless the union and grant sufficient 
 food, with at least a superabundance for the fowls to pick 
 up. The old relative made various inquiries at both parties: 
 “ Will he have this woman?” “ Will she have this man?” 
 When the “I will!” had been publicly said and returned in 
 the face of the village, she presented a lump of rice to the 
 bride who took a bite, and the rest she placed in the mouth 
 of the bridegroom—in token that the wife was to have the 
 same board as her husband. After sitting for an hour or 
 so in the face of the village, to make brothers with all the 
 inhabitants, and as an advertisement of their new relations, 
 the procession continued its way to the house of the bride- 
 groom, where a feast was provided. The closing act of the 
 ceremony was the removal by the husband of all his wife’s 
 ornaments and jewels, which she could never again resume 
 unless she wished to commit that supreme crime in the eyes 
 of her husband, of appearing to wish that she were a maiden 
 again. 
 
 All day long the boys used to amuse themselves under my 
 window with a game called Lepar, that interested me much 
 partly from the rarity of games among the children, as well as 
 from the enthusiastic manner in which they played it. Each 
 player, furnished with a quoit-shaped disk cut out of a cocoanut 
 shell, played forward from a stance, so as to strike either one or 
 (according to the number of players) more disks arranged on 
 the ground some forty or fifty feet distant. Hach played in 
 succession; his turn continuing after his first three shots, till 
 he failed to drive his own against any of the goal disks, The 
 
220 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 manner of propelling the disks was curious. ‘The player, 
 placing his shell flat on the ground, turned his back to the 
 goal, and, firmly grasping his quoit between his heels, with a 
 circular motion of the one leg he caused the disk to shoot 
 forward, describing on its rim a cycloidal curve towards the 
 goal. It was surprising with what accuracy the best players 
 calculated the force necessary to make it describe a curve 
 whose circumference should just pass through the disk aimed 
 at. The players were divided into two unequal parties, 
 the smaller being “out.” As long as a player was able to 
 strike with three tries the first goal-shell, and then the others 
 in succession, he remained.an “in ”-player, and was carried 
 back each time to the stance on the back of one of the out- 
 players. When he failed he became an out-player, and had to 
 deposit his shell at the goal to be played at by the others. If 
 a disk discharged from the stance described a curve “out of 
 bounds,” one of the out-players croqueted it from the stance as 
 far as he could, and from the spot where it came to rest the 
 player’s second stroke had to be made. They played with 
 wonderfully good humour, and compared favourably with an 
 equal number of boys at home. I never witnessed a case of 
 ill-temper or sourness at losing, or quarrelling during the 
 many days I was in the village. 
 
 I was not very fortunate, owing to my illness, in obtaining 
 many new birds, but some of the sun-birds, which frequented 
 the cocoa-palm flowers and the blossoms of shrubs close at 
 hand, were of remarkable beauty, especially a species of 
 Cinnyris (C. hasselti) with a forehead of deep metallic ultra- 
 marine blue; its neck and back of the darkest lake, passing 
 into green and orange on the rump, where the black wings 
 cover it; below the wings the tail protruded, of a deep blue. 
 Its neck and throat were of the richest scarlet, down which 
 ran, from the angles of the jaws, two lines of the intensest 
 blue. It was such a thing of beauty that I could scarcely dare 
 to handle it for fear of injuring its gorgeous tinting. 
 
 From Batu Pantjeh I moved down as soon as I was able to 
 Tebbing-Tingei, a large village sheltering under a forest-clad 
 hill, with a considerable Arab and Chinese population, who 
 have good shops and carry on a large and prosperous trade 
 with the surrounding districts. To me, who had so long been 
 
IN SUMATRA. 221 
 
 
 
 dwelling amid the monotonous life of the mountain villages of 
 the interior, the frequent bugle-calls, the uniformed troops, 
 the overshadowing stone-built fortress, the shop-fronts, which 
 seemed large in my eyes, the substantial houses, the boats on 
 the river loading and unloading cargoes, the coolies running to 
 and fro with goods—this gentle troubling of the pool of industry, 
 seemed to me the very bustle of a metropolis; and as I walked 
 down its one street to the Travellers’ Bungalow, in my travel- 
 scarred garments, great sun-hat and rough boots, I felt the 
 bashfulness of a rustic adding to the redness of my sunburnt 
 countenance, and as uncomfortable as if I had been planted 
 down in similar attire in Regent Street. 
 
 In resuming my journey towards the Kaba I had to give up 
 my late delicious mode of travel, and change the river for the 
 road. Reaching the village of Tandjong-Ning, I found that 
 much tree-felling was going on in the forests pertaining to it ; 
 and, hoping to enrich my herbarium, I set up my camp fora 
 while in its Balai, a structure that might have held an army. 
 But the village was very unsavoury, as every sort of filth and 
 refuse from the houses was allowed to drop through the floor to 
 the ground below. I found that my fame had reached before 
 me, and that not particularly favourably. For some time tigers 
 had been prowling about in the district in great numbers, and, 
 as the Dempo is called the “ Barracks of the Tigers,” they had 
 been seared from their natural home by a potent spell which 
 I must have set up there when I ascended it. It was no use 
 to deny the imputation—“ it was well known !” 
 
 The village was prettily situated above the river Saling, 
 which wound about below it in a deep rocky gorge, through 
 banks which are excavated into long pools and deep pots and 
 sparkling rapids, full of fish of fifteen different kinds (accord- 
 ing to the enumeration of the village chief), and for which the 
 inhabitants, who seem ardent lovers of the gentle art, angle 
 with great assiduity and success with bamboo fishing-rods, 
 and a line of single fibre strong as cat-gut, drawn out of the 
 bark of a tree. 
 
 Where the felling was going on in the forest, I obtained 
 many fine specimens, and nowhere do I recollect to have seen 
 such enormous trees. Thickly scattered about on the ground 
 as they were, over an area of perhaps a mile square, I failed 
 
222 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 to realise the gigantic proportions of their prostrate trunks 
 till I began to move about and travel along them. A human 
 figure was lost among them. Standing by these trunks, my 
 head often did not reach much more than to half the height 
 of some of them, while their length of bare stem measured as 
 much as forty or fifty yards before giving off a branch. 
 
 One afternoon, as I was returning from this forest with my 
 men who had been felling trees, walking in line one behind 
 the other as is their custom, a tiger suddenly slipped from the 
 jungle bordering the road, and in a moment struck down a 
 youth a few yards before me. I dared not fire for fear of 
 striking the youth, but his father, who was walking just in 
 front of him armed with a spear, dashed on it and gave it 
 a right willing thrust, which, with the threatening group, made 
 it quit its hold, when it sprang into the thick jungle. It was 
 all the work of a moment; the stroke of its paw did not seem 
 to be tremendous, but the claws of the brute had penetrated 
 so deeply into the chest and shoulder of the youth that he 
 survived scarcely a quarter of an hour after being carried into 
 the village. arly next morning I was aroused by a great 
 commotion, a loud screaming and scampering of feet, amid 
 which I heard the word “Matjan” (tiger). Jumping up, I 
 slid a cartridge into my Martini-Henry, and rushed out, to 
 find every man brandishing a long spear in the one hand and 
 a kriss in the other, all looking very scared. The tiger of the 
 previous day had come after his unburied quarry, as they 
 firmly believed and asserted against my doubts that he would, 
 and had actually ventured into the middle of the village, and 
 within thirty feet of my door which stood next to the house 
 containing the dead body. The clamour had frightened it 
 off into the impenetrable jungle which closely hedged round 
 the village, whither I could follow it only a very short way. 
 
 As we re-entered the village the body of the youth was 
 being brought out for burial amid terrible wailings of the 
 women. It was sewed into a thick grass mat, on the top of 
 which were spread flowers of the cocoa and pinang palms, and 
 over which, as it was borne away, handfuls of yellowed rice were 
 thrown. The villagers fell in behind the body, each man 
 with a spear over his shoulder, their tips glittering in the 
 sun like a regiment of bayonets, for fear of another sudden 
 

 
MY 
 
 COLLECTOR KILLED 
 
 BY A TIGER. 
 
 
 
 To face page 223. 
 
IN SUMATRA. 223 
 
 attack. The grave was made deeper than usual, and well 
 protected on the top, as they affirmed that the tiger would 
 certainly try to scrape up the body. The lamentations of the 
 women, which were terrible to hear as the body was taken 
 away, continued till the return of the people from the funeral, 
 and then entirely ceased. It is difficult to learn whether 
 these were really bitter mournings, or merely the following of 
 their custom. The event, however, cast a visible gloom over 
 the village, and I felt relieved when it returned to its more 
 ordinary ways. For several nights after the funeral the father 
 of the youth, sitting by himself alone in his house, chanted 
 from sundown till daybreak what they call the Zyjerita bari, 
 or death dirge, a most plaintive lament ; and to me it seemed 
 the most saddening, woe-laden wail I had ever heard, rising 
 and falling on the silent night like a wintry wind. 
 
 As expected, the tiger attempted to scrape up the body the 
 night after its burial. Next night and for several others I 
 watched the grave, but the tiger did not keep tryst with me; 
 but when I was not there it never failed to come. I therefore 
 assisted them to construct a snare to catch it on its first return. 
 A fence was made at all such places as there was a possibility 
 of approach to the grave, leaving on the cleared road a very 
 conspicuous open gate, across which a thin cord was loosely 
 drawn, connected with a green bamboo some thirty feet long 
 bent by the strength of several men into a bow, at whose 
 extremity a sharp spear was so arranged as to be shot athwart 
 the entrance-gate, on the release of the bamboo by the tiger 
 pressing with his: breast on the twig-like cord in his way. 
 Livery night the trap was re-set for six days, without the tiger’s 
 appearance. The seventh it was left unset as apparently use- 
 less; next morning it was found that the tiger had been within 
 the enclosure, and I saw it faithfully set in the evening. The 
 following morning I was awakened by a great chattering out- 
 side the Balai, and, starting up to learn the cause of the uproar, 
 I was informed that the trap had shot in the night, and the 
 spear had been broken off, but the tiger had not been found. 
 I was soon among the eager crowd, who had armed to beat the 
 woods. It was evident from the blood on the spear-shaft that it 
 was sorely wounded, and could not be far off. We had little 
 need, however, of gun or spear, for some thirty yards in the 
 
224 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 forest we found the warm body of the feline. Transfixed from 
 side to side, it had cleared the high fence with one gigantic 
 bound, and fallen dead where it lay. As soon as it was known 
 that the body had been found, every man, woman and child 
 hastened out of the village to see the carcase of their enemy, 
 every individual, save the youngest children, bringing with 
 him a knife or kriss, It was only with the very utmost 
 difficulty that I could, by standing on the body and uttering 
 the direst threats, prevent each of these blades from being 
 thrust into the skin, which I wished to preserve. With what 
 savage delight and revenge they did gloat over that carcase, 
 and run their weapons into its body when they could! What 
 blood there was about was all used up in dipping them in to 
 insure bravery ; and all passed their krisses broadside over and 
 over the body to absorb the potent emanation from this personi- 
 fication of power and boldness. When the body was being 
 skinned the relatives of many of those who had perished by 
 tigers came and begged for a piece of the heart or brain, that 
 they might revenge themselves by eating it—especially one 
 old woman who had thus lost first her only son, and later had 
 had her husband carried off before her eyes. 
 
 The graveyard of the village was laid out along the river, 
 on each side of a moss-grown path, overshadowed by tall and 
 aged trees. All about grew delicate ferns and shrubs sacred 
 to the dead. Almost at the end of this tall avenue I came 
 one day on a house of some dimensions, with a closed door, 
 having a space in front cleared of vegetation, and kept neatly 
 in order. By peering though an aperture I could see inside, 
 surrounded by a close pavement of stones, a solitary grave- 
 stone. This was the resting-place of the Nene Poyang, or 
 Forefather, who had established the village. When any great 
 trouble overtakes the village, such as many deaths from tigers, 
 or times of scarcity befall them, they assemble here, and killing 
 a goat or a buffalo, they invoke the good offices of the spirit of 
 their ancestor. If a man have a dispute with another and the 
 matter be referred to his oath, it is over the stone of their 
 ancestor here that he swears. 
 
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 To face page 225. 
 MY HUT AT THE HOT-SPRINGS, FOOT OF THE KABA VOLCANO. 
 
 
 
IN SUMATRA. 225 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. . 
 SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY—continued. 
 
 Leave ‘l'andjong-Ning — Padanz Ulak-'l'andjong — Kepala . Tjurup — Hot 
 springs of the Kaba—HKarthquake—Botanical features—Curious plants— 
 Fertilisation of Melastoma—A pilgrimaze—The crater of the Kaba—The 
 Nomadic Kubus—Rupit river scenery—Gold gatherers—Muara-rupit 
 —The Durian—Surulangun—Thieves and thieves’ calendars—Malay: 
 dignity—Leave for Muara Mengkulem. 
 
 
 
 LEAVING the village of Tandjong-Ning, I proceeded across a 
 gradually-rising country, at that period very poverty-stricken, 
 in which there was little new or interesting to detain me. 
 T'wo days brought me to Padang Ulak-Tandjong, on the river 
 Klingi, the seat of the magistrate of the district, where I was 
 detained for several days owing to the difficulty of obtaining 
 transport. All the able-bodied men had left the district in 
 search of food in far-off parts, as there had been no rice in their 
 own, from the failure of the crops for several years. Kepala- 
 Tjurup, the nearest village to the Kaba, was ten miles farther 
 on, and eight from the base of the mountain. There I left the 
 heavy baggage, and by a rough and difficult ravine-intersected 
 path through the forest, along which [ noticed not a few plants 
 new to me, I proceeded to the hot springs at the base of the 
 Kaba, where I built a hut amid the steam which continually 
 rolled up from the water that bubbles out in the face of a steep 
 ravine at a teraperature of 170° F. 
 
 I had not taken up my quarters many hours before I was 
 made sensibly aware that I was in a volcanic region by a 
 severe and long-continued shock of earthquake. Later on, on 
 the evening of the 16th of September, I again experienced two 
 very strong vertical bumps, which tossed me clean upwards 
 from my chair, dislodged a large pet Hornbill from its perch, 
 and shook a heavy shower of drops from the trees. ‘Lhe Argus 
 
 Q 
 
226 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS ¢ 
 pheasants screamed, and the howl of the Siamang broke the 
 stillness of the evening. The sensation was as if an inter- — 
 mittent upheaval, such as I witnessed in the crater of the 
 Dempo, had taken place under my feet. 
 
 The stream close at hand swarmed with excellent fish, of 
 which some were caught every day for my table; the woods 
 were full of deer, which frequented the hot springs to drink, 
 of herds of tapir and of elegant little Tragulide. Numerous — 
 Buceros birds advertised their presence by their cries; in the 
 darker shades were pittas (P. venusta) pheasants and species of 
 partridge (Caloperdia oculea); while Babbling-thrushes (Rhino- 
 cichla mitrata and Sibia simillima), and many kinds besides, 
 added their chorus to the woods. 
 
 The botanical features of the district were not without 
 interest, though not so rich as some of the localities I had 
 already visited. At my door, growing in a thicket, was one of 
 those shrubs (Sambucus javanica), which like the Ponicettia, 
 produce in the close vicinity of their florets, curious and 
 little cups full of rich, yellow honey whose function is still a 
 disputed question. The species of Sambucus in Europe, as 
 is well known, have thread-like stipules with glandular tips, 
 which in S. racemosa, M. Bonnier* has observed, produce 
 liquid sugar abundantly. H. Miller? has recorded that a 
 species of Sambucus (S. nigra?) is not visited by bees, but by 
 flies, on account of its odour; but M. Bonnier says, “ S. racemosa 
 is visited by bees. The distribution of the nectaries .. . 
 (according to the German physiological botanist Sachs) is 
 always in immediate relation to the specific combinations that 
 the flower has developed (réalisé) for the purpose of fertilisa- 
 tion by insects. They visit the flowers to imbibe the nectar, 
 by which they are nourished, and which is distilled exclusively 
 for this purpose.” M. Bonnier holds { that “the greater part 
 of the accumulated sugar returns to the plant when the nectar 
 loses the sugar it contained [which supervenes when the fruit 
 begins to grow]... . In regard to the floral nectaries, when 
 the sugar disappears from the nectariferous tissue, they go to 
 
 * Bonnier, “ Les Nectaires,” Annales des Sciences Naturelles Botanique, viii. 
 1879, pp. 1-212. For a reference to this interesting paper I am much 
 indebted to Lord Justice Fry. 
 
 + ‘Die Befruchting der Blumen durch Insekten,’ Leipzig, 1873, p. 488. 
 Teor, cutepe 127, 
 
IN SUMATRA. wot 
 
 contribute to the nourishment of the young fruit and young 
 ovules ; and, in regard to the extrafloral nectaries, they go to 
 the development of the neighbouring organ.” The chief 
 visitors and fertilisers of the S. javanica were white butterflies 
 (Pieride) ; but I was unable to detect them sipping from the 
 honey-cups; while species of wasps (Huwmenes) that frequented 
 them occasionally came cautiously from below to sip the nectar, 
 but disregarded the flowers. These little cups were not confined 
 to the neighbonrhood of the flowers, but were arranged abun- 
 dantly on the leaves and on the stems of the plant as well. 
 
 Here I was gratified to find abundance of the great Arums, 
 Amorphophallus titanum, of which I have already spoken; * 
 with tubers of a greater size than any I had seen before, some 
 of them, indeed, being the largest yet recorded. The greatest 
 —measuring in circumference six feet six inches, and its stem 
 at the base two feet seven inches—formed, on its removal 
 from the ground, a load for twelve men. 
 
 A striking feature also of the forest here was the enormous 
 results of the activity of earth-worms. The whole surface of 
 the ground was as rough and hummocky as a newly-ploughed 
 field. A tube four and a half inches in circumference and 
 eight inches high was often raised in a single night, and as, in 
 some places, there were as many as ten to twelve of these in 
 a square yard, it becomes evident what powerful agents they 
 are in the fertilisation of the soil, incessant as they seem 
 to be in their work of carrying up the soil from below and 
 laying it down on the surface, burying the rotting débr’s of the 
 forest. Insects were by no means common. Few bees, fewer 
 beetles, and hardly one of the finer forms of butterflies were 
 found except the magnificent Ornithoptera brookeana, whose 
 favourite resort was the stones that cropped out above the 
 hot water, and which were of a temperature but little below 
 130° F. This butterfly has a bar of the richest lake dividing 
 the head from the thorax; its blue-black wings are banded 
 on the upper side with the most sparkling metallic emerald, 
 and the under sides slashed with metallic green and blue, 
 which glittered and flashed in the sunshine, in whose brightest 
 hours alone they made their appearance. 
 
 On the first favourable day, accompanied by one of the 
 
 * Supra,.p.-t75. 
 Q 2 
 
228 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 chiefs of the district, I started for the crater of the mountain. 
 The path lay through a very gently rising stretch of forest, — 
 abounding in Urostigma trees, alternating with bamboo clumps, 
 but with almost no undergrowth, except low grass and a few 
 herbs. Where the mountain began to ascend more steeply, 
 we entered a dense thicket of tall reedy grass and fern tangle, 
 through which there would have been no possibility of pro- 
 gressing had I not sent men on several days before to make 
 a path. So tall was the grass that merely a tunnel could 
 be excavated in it, through which we half walked half crept, 
 and along which the baggage was dragged only with the 
 utmost difficulty. Above this we encountered many Tern- 
 streemacex, with large white and rose-coloured corollas, scented 
 laurel (Tetranthera citrata) whose sweet perfume filled the 
 air, and small trees called by the natives Balik-sumpa, from 
 whose fruits necklets are made for children to wear as charms. 
 When a youth and a maiden have plighted their troth by an 
 oath, or indeed made any oath before their marriage, they 
 make for their first child a necklet of the fruit of this 
 tree, in order that no harm may overtake it on account 
 of their oath; the name implies “ Averter of the oath.” 
 Above this the mountain presented a singular appearance. © 
 With the exception of a species of Pandan, there were no more 
 trees to be seen, only low shrubs of a pretty species of honey- 
 suckle, which gave the mountain the appearance of being 
 heather-clad, thickly interspersed with a taller species of pink 
 Melastoma with a profusion of immense flowers nearly three 
 inches in width, giving the landscape the appearance of being 
 set with wild rose-trees. ‘These fine shrubs accompanied us 
 quite to the summit. Just about their commencement the 
 leeches which had attacked our limbs without mercy ceased to 
 be found; on the Dempo they drew the line at 7500 feet. 
 
 A large humble-bee (Bombus senex) was busy visiting these 
 Melastoma-flowers, and I watched its operations with the 
 greatest interest. Hach flower has two forms of stamens, 
 short and long, differing in colour and shape. The short 
 stamens have yellow anthers, a, which stand out from the middle 
 of the flower, and are very conspicuous; the longer stamens 
 have anthers, a’, approaching in colour to that of the petals form- 
 ing their background, and are therefore less conspicious, and 
 
“IN SUMATRA. 929 
 
 
 
 they have a singular knee extended into a fork-like projection, f, 
 which in the flower lies just below the bright yellow anthers 
 of the short stamens. ‘The lower portion of the long stamens 
 takes a backward curve from the 
 fork carrying the pores of its 
 anthers far from those of the 
 short stamens. ‘This arrange- 
 ment is most beautifully adapted, 
 as was first pointed out by Fritz 
 
 Miller, for the cross-fertilisation FLOWER (DIAGR one MELASTOMA, 
 IN SECTION.—p, PETAL; @', ANTHER 
 
 of the plant. OF SHORT sSTAMENS; f, FORK OF 10NG 
 
 The bees invariably made tTAMENS; a’, ANTHER OF LONG STA- 
 
 . MENS; €, FILAMENT OF LONG ANTHER ; 
 
 for the bright yellow platform © s¢, srrama or pisrin; $, OVARY. 
 offered by the bunch of short 
 stamens (perhaps because they do not perceive from a distance 
 the pink pistil and long stamens projected against the 
 pink corolla), and invariably received the pistil between their 
 legs, their feet settling also on the adjoining fork of the long 
 stamens. The instant effect of this is to collect the whole 
 of the long stamens into a bunch, and to depress their anthers 
 downwards and away from the body of the bee, while the 
 stigma of the pistil (which hangs down close to the pores 
 of the long-stamened anthers) remains in constant contact 
 with its ventral side. At the moment of the bee’s depar- 
 ture, the hooks on its feet, by pulling on the fork of the long 
 stamens, raise their anthers, bringing—now that there is no 
 fear of producing self-fertilisation of the plant—their tips in 
 a collected bunch into contact with its sides and abdomen. 
 Long after I had made these observations, while working in the 
 laboratory of the Buitenzorg Gardens, Dr. Burck pointed out to 
 me a fact of considerable importance which I was able to verify. 
 for myself, that there was in very closely allied species of this 
 family a great difference in the shape of the pollen of the two 
 forms of anther; that while pollen of both shapes was found on 
 the pistil, that from the long stamens alone seemed fertile. We 
 could not detect any pollen tubes (which are emitted when the 
 pollen is fecundating the plant) emanating from the pollen of 
 the short-stamened anthers. 
 
 The reason why some organ of a plant or animal has assumed, 
 as it were, an abnormal form, is not always easy to discover ; 
 
 
 
230 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 but we may feel sure that a change of form indicates a corre-_ 
 sponding change of function; and in discovering its true 
 raison d’étre, the object of our contemplation is invested 
 with a halo of interest which it could not otherwise have 
 possessed. 
 
 ‘Ihe yellow, short-stamened anthers have evidently left their 
 ordinary function of fecundation to become an enticing food-bait 
 to attract insects to the flower, while the long stamens have 
 varied in form to secure to the utmost their ordinary function 
 by insuring that their pollen shall fecundate not their own 
 but their neighbour’s stigma. This result, however, would be 
 impossible but for the singularly methodical habits which 
 bees have of visiting in a long sequence the same species of 
 flowers.” | 7 
 
 How fitly jointed together all nature hangs! 
 
 After I had progressed some distance on the morning on our 
 way up, I became aware of two men following us who were not 
 of our party. On inquiry I found that they were Ampat Lawang 
 men going to the mountain to invoke the Dewa. One carried a 
 white pigeon in a cage, and both were dressed with care in their 
 best garments. On arrival at my hut, they adjourned along 
 with my guide to the summit overlooking it. Here they 
 burned benzoin incense to the Dewa, whom they should have 
 invoked by a prayer, but as none of them could “ menhadji” 
 this part of the ceremony had perforce to be dispensed with. 
 Thereafter they made their way to the Kaba peak, which rose 
 on our opposite side perpendicularly out of the crater. There 
 the two were to spend the night in the open air, and let 
 loose their pigeon as an offering to the Dewa. I knew that 
 they must have come on some special mission, and suspected 
 that the younger man had perhaps set his heart on a fair 
 maiden, and desired to impress the deity into his suit; or 
 that they had come to solicit a good rice crop in what was then 
 an almost famine time; or that sickness or some grave trouble 
 oppressed them; but on inquiring of my guide the specific 
 reason, I found that they were earnestly desirous that the 
 Dewa might incline the heart of the magistrate of their district 
 to grant them leave to hold—a cock-fighting tournament! 
 
 The hut of pandan mats which I had sent men to erect close 
 
 * C*. Nature, vil, xxiv. p. 807; xxvi. p. 886; xxvii. p. 30; 
 
IN SUMATRA. 231. 
 
 to the summit I found placed but a few yards from the crater 
 edge. On reaching the brink the first look quite startled me. I 
 stood on the edge of a sheer precipice 600 or 700 feet in depth, 
 looking down into a gigantic unevenly-floored pit bounded 
 by perpendicular walls which till a short time previously 
 had been a lake. The floor was of a deep blue-black colour, 
 giving vent at various points to jets of steam. From this 
 standpoint it seemed that there was no possible way of reaching 
 the crater floor than by leaping over the precipice; but, on 
 proceeding along its rim, I found a spot where the cliffs became 
 considerably lower. This less elevated wall turned out to be 
 only a dividing dyke separating the western from another 
 much greater and more irregular eastern crater, into which I 
 would not venture to descend, as, on probing its floor, it 
 treacherously gave way under the weight of our feet. In the 
 ugly rents and chasms athwart it, and in the great unsightly 
 blocks of stone furiously piled up against each other in all 
 directions, giving issue between them to steam and _ feetid 
 vapours, it was not inviting. ‘To reach the western floor we 
 descended a declivity of some 70°, scrambling sometimes on 
 hands and feet sometimes sliding on our heels, not without an 
 eerie feeling, for, though all looked still and quiet, there was 
 a continuous and awesome sound, waxing and waning like an 
 angry sea breaking on a shingly shore. The whole surface 
 was covered with a layer of black sand and irregular fragments 
 of stone, many of them of great size and weight, chipped and 
 indented by the impact of others falling on them. The lake, 
 which a few years before filled it, had disappeared. ‘he soil 
 was quite porous, and on the-surface unpleasantly hot to 
 the hand, but further down candescent enough to scorch my 
 walking-stick thrust into it; from the whole surface vapours 
 gently emanated, leaving variously coloured deposits. At one 
 spot several great cauldrons were in fierce ebullition, emitting 
 steam, with a roar like some cyclopean engine blowing off power 
 which the walls resolved into the sound of a surf-beaten shore ; 
 and besides, vapour, sand, water, and white and rich chrome 
 coloured muds, tinged with alum and sulphur. 
 
 Three years had elapsed since its previous eruption had ceased 
 and six since it had commenced. Before that time it had been 
 quiescent since about 1833. The whole country for twenty miles 
 
232 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 round had been covered with volcanic dust, and even at the 
 time of my visit the soil of the banks of the Klingi at fifteen 
 miles off was so charged with noxious substances that, when 
 portions fell in during heavy rains, numbers of fish died 
 from its effect on the water. The mountain itself was every- 
 where covered with a sheet of black sand ; and above the belt 
 of grass and ferns I have mentioned, no trees had survived 
 —everywhere their dead trunks stood erect, or lay prostrate 
 on the bleak blasted ground. On such a gigantic scale and 
 so proportionate is the whole scene that one fails to realise the 
 vast dimensions of the caverns; and it is only when the eye— 
 viewing from the summit and comparing with the littleness 
 of a human figure the blocks of stone and the huge ejected 
 rocks, which seem but the small atoms of which the scene is 
 composed—pauses to estimate its vast walls and its enormous 
 stretch from rim to rim, that some comprehension is attained _ 
 of the immensity of the powers that have been at work and 
 the effects they have produced. 
 
 In many places, extending over a wide area in an onsteel 
 direction, steam could be seen issuing from the ground ; and at 
 one spot on the crest of the Biring peak vapours were issuing 
 from rents which must have been but a few weeks old, as the 
 grass in their neighbourhood had not entirely disappeared, 
 though it was brown and yellow. In many places, too, could 
 be seen large dismal areas and mounds of black sand, ejected 
 in recent eruptions or upbursts. 
 
 The most prominent feature of the landscape on the upper 
 portion of the mountain was certainly the Pandans, which, 
 though but sparsely dottel about, reared their lean ungainly 
 stems and sparse tufted foliage prominently above the shrubs 
 and other bushes, and, combined in the view with numerous 
 spots blasted by volcanic action, gave a dreariness and a 
 feeling of desolation to the scenery of the Kaba which the 
 great beauty of the Melastoma, which will always remain 
 associated with it in my recollection, could not redeem. 
 
 From the Kaba I directed my course towards the upper 
 reaches of the Musi river; but the obtaining of transport was 
 very difficult, as there was almost nobody but women left in 
 the district, all the men having gone away to labour in Palem- 
 bang and other centres to earn rice, which had so failed in 
 
IN SUMATRA. 235 
 
 their own district. The poor people had sold all their saleable 
 goods, and were then many of them living in the deep forest, 
 feeding on fruits and green herbs, and making sago from 
 the Areng palm; or in search of rattan and balam (their name 
 for the yarious species of gum-elastic and gutta-percha), to 
 exchange for rice in Palembang, whence all their supplies had 
 to be brought—a twenty to thirty or more days’ laborious 
 pole up the river. They were besides all so very weak from 
 spare diet that we had to arrange the baggage in small bundles 
 and employ a larger number. Our road lay at first south-east 
 along the Klingi, and then northward across the tributaries 
 of the Lakitan, to the village of Suka-Radja, on the Rupit 
 river, where I spent a few profitable weeks. 
 
 Here I obtained an interesting bird, a green species of Spider- 
 eater—an elegant genus with long curved bill—flitting about 
 near the ground on the rocky pavement. On dissection I 
 found its stomach to contain, besides insects and the seeds of 
 Scitaminex, a waxy substance. The natives say that it feeds on 
 the flowers of the Scitaminex that bloom on the surface of the 
 ground. These are most of them of very bright colours, and 
 grow in deep shade where few insects are to be found, and it is 
 very probable that the grateful office of cross-fertilisation is per- 
 
 ‘formed for them by the Spider-eater and other birds. The most 
 remarkable feature of the forests here was an immensely tall 
 thick tree called by the natives Sekawang (? Bassta, sp.), whose 
 scarlet flowers keep falling, during the two or three weeks of 
 its blossoming time, in one incessant rain, covering the ground 
 with a deep scarlet carpet, so deep that hundreds of bushels 
 might be gathered, from which a peculiar and very oppressive 
 but not disagreeable odour emanates. 
 
 Here I made my first acquaintance with the Kubus, a race 
 of whom I had heard much in the southern parts of my 
 journey as a wild tribe living houseless in the forests, covered 
 with hair, and altogether so peculiar a people as to be famous 
 far from their own regions. As I approached nearer to their 
 haunts the exaggerated tales about them became reduced 
 nearer to the bounds of truth; but still then little reliable 
 information could be obtained; so that it was with extreme 
 satisfaction that I learned one day that in their wanderings, a 
 small company of them had come into the neighbourhood, 
 
234 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 to whom I sent the head of the village to call them to speak 
 with me. 
 
 ‘he Kubus are a small tribe of people inhabiting the central 
 parts of Sumatra, and it has been claimed by some for them 
 that they are the remnants of the pristine indigenes of the 
 country. 3 
 
 My first introduction was to two men, one woman, and one 
 child; shortly afterwards, however, at Surulangun,* through 
 
 the kind assistance of Mr. Kamp, the Controller of the district, 
 
 
 
 A KUBU MAN AND WOMAN, SKETCHED IN THE VILLAGE OF KOTTA-RADJA. 
 
 I was able to examine a considerable number of these people, to 
 collect some information about them, and to obtain one cranium 
 and, after considerable difficulty, one complete skeleton. 
 
 The Kubus are a nomadic race wandering about in the 
 forests on the borders of the Jambi Sultanate and of the Palem- 
 bang Residency, along the banks and affluents of the great 
 rivers, the Musi and the Batang Hari. The Dutch Govern- 
 ment some years ago began the attempt to teach these people 
 the rudiments of the art of agriculture, and have after much 
 
 * See below, page 210, 
 
IN SUMATRA. 239 
 
 difficulty succeeded in getting a few families in several 
 districts to assume in some degree a settled residence in 
 villages made for themselves. It was owing to these partially 
 civilised communities that I am indebted for a sight of the 
 people I met at Surulangun. 
 
 In their wild state they live in the deep forest, making 
 temporary dwellings, if their rude shelters can be called such, in 
 which they stay for a few days at a time, where food is obtain- 
 able, or for the purpose of collecting beeswax, dammar, and 
 gutta-percha. Their dwellings are a few simple branches 
 erected over a low platform to keep them from the ground, and 
 thatched with banana- or palm-leaves. They are so timorous 
 and shy that it is a rare circumstance for any one to see them, 
 and of course an extremely rare one for any white man. In 
 fact, I doubt if any white man has ever seen the uninfluenced 
 Kubu, save as one sees the hind-quarters of astartled deer. In 
 the small trade carried on between them and the Malay traders 
 of the Palembang and Jambi Residencies, the transactions are 
 performed without the one party seeing the other. The Malay 
 trader, ascending to one of their places of rendezvous, beats a 
 gong in a particular way to give notice of his arrival. On 
 hearing the signal, the Kubus, bringing out what forest produce 
 they may have collected, and depositing it on the ground at 
 this place, hastily retire into close hiding, beating a gong as a 
 signal that all is ready. The trader then slowly and cautiously 
 approaches, lays down on the ground the cloth, knives, and 
 other articles of barter he has brought, to the amount which 
 he considers an equivalent exchange, beats a gong and in like 
 manner disappears. The Kubus proceed then to examine the 
 barter offered; if they think the bargain satisfactory they 
 remove the goods, beat their gong and go away; while the 
 trader packs up the produce he finds left lying on the ground. 
 If the bargain is not considered by them sufficiently advan- 
 tageous, they set on one side a portion of their produce, to 
 reduce it to what they consider the value of the barter offered ; 
 and thus the affair see-saws till finally adjusted or abandoned. 
 They are so afraid of seeing any one not of their own race that, 
 if suddenly met or come up with in the forest, they will drop 
 everything and flee away. They cultivate nothing for them- 
 selves, but live entirely on the products of the forest—snakes, 
 
236 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 lizards, grubs, fruits, an occasional deer, pig, or tapir, which _ 
 a happy effort has rewarded them with—and what they pur-— 
 chase by barter from Malays. They know nothing of art; they 
 manufacture absolutely nothing. Their knives and the univer- 
 sal spear with which they are armed are purchased from the 
 Malays with whom they trade. Neither men nor women wear 
 clothes, except the small T-bandage of bark-cloth; some even 
 go entirely in a state of nature. Where Kuropean influence is 
 beginning to have its modifying effect—and where is it not 
 now felt in some measure ?—calico coverings such as modesty 
 demands are worn. They keep in confinement a few birds 
 occasionally, and a species of dog of moderate size generally 
 accompanies them. They will scarcely touch water for ablu- 
 tionary purposes, and have consequently a strong, unpleasant 
 odour; and a small stream which they cannot cross by prau 
 or by stepping-stones is often a barrier to their journey. 
 
 On approaching the steps of the hut in which I was living, 
 my first acquaintances made a bashful salutation with the hand 
 in the awkward way of children, advancing with open eyes full 
 of wonder and curiosity more marked in the woman's face than 
 in her companion’s, she being evidently less accustomed to see 
 other than her own people. They rarely come into the villages, 
 the villagers always seeking them out in order to buy from 
 them their forest-gathered produce. ‘The chief who went to 
 induce them to visit me had to assure them that I did not 
 wish to make them take up their residence in a village, or to 
 compel them to cultivate rice fields. 
 
 The colour of their skin was a rich olive brown; while their 
 hair always in a dishevelled state, was jet black, inclined to 
 curl. It was certainly less straight than that of the village 
 Malays, but it may be that this curling is the result of want 
 of attention, and of its becoming matted and twisted. The 
 woman’s hair was straighter than the men’s. Her features were 
 what I might call Mongolcan, in contrast to her companion’s, 
 which I might designate as more conforming to the Malayan 
 type about them. The child might have been a very dark- 
 complexioned Italian or a dark Arabian. Her features are re- 
 presented very truthfully on page 234, Both men had a slight 
 moustache, and a few hairs on the chin. What struck me most 
 in them was their extreme submissiveness, their want of inde- 
 
IN SUMATRA. 237 
 
 pendence and will; they seemed too meek ever to act on the 
 offensive. One cannot help feeling that they are harmless 
 overgrown children of the woods. Within the memory of the 
 chief of the village in which I first met these Kubus, have they 
 only come to possess a sense of shame; formerly they knew 
 none, and were the derision of the villagers into whose neigh- 
 bourhood they might come. 
 
 Rain having fallen very heavily in the north-west hills for 
 some time, the path across country to the borders of Djambi 
 was rendered so impassable, that it became necessary for me 
 to descend the Rupit to its junction with the Rawas river 
 at Muara Rupit, and then ascend the latter by a road fol- 
 lowing the river for a great part of the way—a far longer 
 journey. I had therefore a couple of substantial rafts made, 
 in one of which | had fitted a covered seat, with a long raised 
 platform behind it on which to prepare a herbarium, as the 
 river traversed much virgin forest specimens of which my 
 mode of travel would enable me to collect and arrange while 
 sailing down. ‘The river below the village was broad, and, 
 except at a few places, of considerable depth. 
 
 I started early on the 25th of October, just as the sun 
 was tipping the trees, streaming through the morning mist 
 changing it into a golden haze. High overhead the pale 
 blue of the sky betokened a bright sunny day. The morning 
 was delightfully fresh and invigorating ; even the phlegmatic 
 Malay felt it so, for the men who piloted my rafts pranced 
 on their poles as they shoved along, and when they came to 
 spots where more vigorous exertion had to be put forth, 
 they shouted and hallooed in the exuberance of their spirits. 
 Nothing could be more pleasant than our gentle gliding 
 down, enjoying without fatigue the ever-varying pictures 
 presented at each bend of the river—its abrupt corners, its 
 deep rotating frothy pools ; now the shade of some stupendous 
 tree, now the shooting an arch of some half-fallen giant 
 busked with pendant ferns and orchidaceous Vandas. Very 
 many trees were in flower and fruit—in fact till then for 
 several years there had been little blossom—tail Melettias 
 hung with immense pods, and wild Nutmeg trees with their 
 pretty drop-like fruits. The oaks were one mass of white 
 inflorescense, and formed a characteristic feature of the 
 
238 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 vegetation of the banks; while bushy Sterculiaceous trees 
 made a greater show of colour in the rich pink of their young 
 foliage and in the bright scarlet of their fruits than in their 
 inconspicuous flowers. Between these more outstanding trees, 
 dark-foliaged figs and slender bamboos gracefully bending over 
 the bank, filled up the ranks shoulder to shoulder. Tall Sialang 
 trees, with lightning-conductor-like stairs up their white stems, 
 by which the wild bees’ nests are reached, and the Pangiums 
 bearing 600 to 700 brown velvety fruits each several pounds 
 in weight, so that one marvels that the branches are able to | 
 sustain the load—marked the vicinity of villages. Here and 
 there a stately tree which had been left unmolested in their 
 fields exhibited the grandeur of stem and crown that an 
 Ancient of the forest can attain unto. Every lifeless stem, to 
 the very tips of its withered arms was festooned with dark- 
 foliaged climbers, yellow and purple Papilionacee and Con- 
 volvulacex, like the grotesque shrubbery cut out of boxwood, 
 but with all the natural grace which is conspicuously wanting 
 in Dutch gardens. No tree, however, was more abundant or 
 brighter than the Lagerstreemia, whose fine red tops could be 
 seen a long way off. Every now and then a creaking sound 
 came up the water catching the ear like the subdued screech 
 of a buffalo cart, produced by the monotonous turning of a 
 large bamboo waterwheel fixed where the banks of the river 
 were high, to lift water into the adjacent rice-fields by bamboo 
 buckets fixed at intervals in a lateral direction to their paddles. 
 Water birds of many species, and kingfishers in cobalt plu- 
 mage, were constantly darting about, roused from their hunting 
 grounds by our passing, many of which were hononred with 
 a place in my collection. In addition to the ever-changing 
 forms of the vegetation and the varied bird and insect life that 
 flitted from side to side, there was no lack of human interest in 
 the scenes. Now it was a skiff with flashing oars with a 
 chattering load of women and girls with their baskets on their 
 way to the fields; now a village crowd in their many coloured 
 sarongs, clustered on the rocks or under the shade of some 
 broad fig to see our flotilla pass by; here it was a patient 
 plyer of the gentle art by a rippling bend; there a crowd of 
 women in a shingly corner in their broad sun hats and blue 
 gowns washing the sand for gold. 
 
IN SUMATRA. 239 
 
 
 
 
 
 The recent rains had produced a flood—the greatest, it was 
 said, for five years—which had risen from ten to twelve feet 
 above its ordinary mark. Throughouta distance of from thirty 
 to forty miles it had carried away pieces of the bank from three 
 to five yards wide and from eight to ten feet deep. In these 
 new sections large trees (stems and branches) had become ex- 
 posed, buried more than six feet below the surface of the sur- 
 rounding land. These sections showed the soil resting on a 
 deep band of clay, which in turn was lying on a thick stratum 
 of shingle, which was being again washed out, to be subjected 
 to fresh attrition after having rested for many cycles. Below 
 the confluence of the River Tiku, which rises among the Pale- 
 -ozoic rocks in the Redjang region a considerable quantity of 
 gold is found when the river is very low, caught among the 
 stones, larger pebbles and sand. This sand is collected—the 
 occupation mostly of the older women—and, when freed from 
 the larger particles, goes by the name of bungin; the bungin 
 is washed in a broad cone-shaped vessel of wood—the dulang 
 —by a rotatory motion, till only an extremely fine heavy black 
 sand (kalam) is left. The kalam, which contains the gold is 
 then rotated in the dulang with a little water till the heavier 
 metal falls to the apex of the cone, whence it is carefully 
 removed. A very successful day’s washing in this fashion will 
 bring only 1s. 8d. 
 
 With a halt of one night at the village of Ambatjang, so 
 called from an old large and symmetrical tree of that name 
 (Mangifera foetida) growing in the village, then in magni- 
 ficent blossom, I reached Muara-Rupit at the confluence of 
 the Rawas river, on the afternoon of the second day. Muara- 
 Rupit, to the Ulu men from among whom I had come, is a 
 great place which perhaps some day fate may permit them to 
 visit. ‘To have been to Muara-Rupit from the Ulu country 
 is to have gained a certain precedence amongst their fellow 
 villagers, while to have been to Palembang, a to-and-fro jour- 
 ney of six weeks, is to have seen the world! This place is 
 the seat of a great trade; everything from the coast for the 
 Rupit and the country watered by its tributaries, and for the 
 Rawas and its tributaries up to the Djambi country, is brought 
 to Muara-Rupit, whither can come a small steamer able to 
 carry a company of troops. I was consequently not surprised 
 
240 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 
 
 on finding a broad, deep river, with a fleet of Palembang praus 
 at anchor, and of rakits loaded, or lying to be filled up with 
 gutta-percha, rattan, and buffaloes for the Palembang market. 
 
 From Muara-Rupit I proceeded to Surulangun, along a good 
 road following the Rawas river, under acontinuous shade of tall 
 Durian trees from thirty-five to forty feet high—a growth of ten 
 years. The road was carpeted throughout its length with their 
 flowers, which were dropping off in vast numbers. In the flower- 
 ing time it was a most pleasant shady road; but later in the 
 season the chance of a fruit now and then descending on one’s 
 head would be lessagreeable.* At every village I passed, I was 
 respectfully received by the chiefs; and at several places they 
 were accompanied by the youths and maidens, who were 
 formed to right and left of the way attended by a band, while 
 a table loaded with fruits, sweetmeats and coffee, barred the 
 road, of which in order to gratify them I had to dismount and 
 partake. This band played me to the boundaries of the 
 next village, where another was waiting to convoy us through 
 their region. 
 
 At Surulangun, the residence of Mr. Kamp the genial Magis- 
 trate of the district, enjoying his bountiful hospitality, and the 
 companionship of the commandant of a small garrison quartered 
 there for the protection of the district against the Djambi 
 people, several most pleasant days were passed. ‘These hostile 
 neighbours make not infrequent raids on the villages to carry 
 off their herds, covering their departure by maliciously plant- 
 ing the roads with short sharp bamboo spikes, invisible till 
 wounds are received. 
 
 Here I had the satisfaction of again examining, through Mr. 
 Kamp’s kind aid, a considerable assemblage of Kubus of both 
 sexes. Several of them it would have been impossible to tell 
 from the people of the surrounding villages from their features ; 
 on the other hand, there were peculiarities scarcely reducible 
 to words, by which they could have been picked out among 
 a crowd of Malays. I tried to formulate the differences, but 
 found myself almost unable to say exactly wherein they con- 
 sisted. The high (between the eyes) straight dorsum of the 
 
 * Of this fruit the natives are passionately fond; and Mr. Wallace writes 
 it is worth a voyage to the East to taste; and the elephants flock to its shade 
 in the fruiting time; but, more singular still, the tiger is said to devour it 
 
 with avidity. 
 

 
 IN. SUMATRA. 241 
 
 
 
 nose in a few was remarkable; and the sharply prominent 
 eheek-bones. The villagers asserted that they could tell a 
 footprint in the mud of a Kubu from that of their own people. 
 I caused several of them to walk over sheets of paper 
 after rubbing the soles of their feet with soot, but I could 
 not discover, either in the shape of the foot or in its print, 
 any divergence from that of the people about them. ‘The 
 lips of the Kubus were thin, and the eyes restless and glancing, 
 as if ever on the alert. Theaverage height of seven males was 
 1:59 metres, and of five females 1:49 metres, which is about 
 the average stature of the Malays of Malacca. On comparing 
 the impress of their hands with those of the people of the dis- 
 trict, those of the Kubus I found to be smaller. They are, I 
 also observed, rather subject to reduplication of the fingers. 
 
 They are said to have a language of their own unintelligible 
 to their neighbours, but I failed to induce them to give me 
 any specimen of it, if it existed. I could not understand their 
 speech at first; but after some conversation I could detect 
 that they really spoke a corrupted Malay with a peculiar 
 accentuation. 
 
 Monogamy is the rule among them; but a few have two or 
 more wives. ‘Their nuptial ceremony is a very simple affair. 
 The man having fixed his choice on a girl, and obtained 
 the consent of her parents to his suit, brings to her father such 
 gifts as he has—a knife, a spear, cloths, or money (if he has 
 any), dammar, and beeswax—and such rare fruits of the forest 
 or favourite food-animals as may reward his search. When 
 this gift is satisfactorily large, those who may be within reach 
 are called together. Seating themselves below a tree, the 
 father of the maiden informs them that he has given his 
 daughter So-and-so to So-and-so in marriage. One of the 
 company then strikes the tree under which they sit several 
 times with a club, proclaiming them to be man and wife. The 
 ceremony is followed by such feast as can be provided, princi- 
 pally out of the fruits and animals the bridegroom has paid 
 for his wife with. 
 
 It is a rare thing for a Malay man to marry a Kubu woman ; 
 but it occasionally happens, notwithstanding that they consider 
 the Kubus far their inferiors, a position which the latter seem 
 to accept with very marked submissiveness. “You Kubu!” 
 
 R 
 
242 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 is a term of opprobrium which I have often heard applied by 
 one native to another with whom he had quarrelled. The 
 village people consider them little other than beasts. In no 
 case will a Malay touch or interfere with a dead body of one 
 of his people; yet I was able to obtain their assistance in dis- 
 interring the body of the Kubu from which I made the skeleton 
 that I obtained. The Kubus possess no personal property of 
 any kind beyond what they can carry about with them. Their 
 food, which consists for the most part of wild fruits or small 
 animals, which they prefer, I am told, in a semi-putrid condition, 
 they eat as they come by it, with little or no cooking. When 
 traversing the forest, if one of them, on finding a bee-infested 
 or a dammar-yielding tree, clear the brush around it, make one 
 or two hacks in the bark, and repeat a form of spell, it is 
 recognised by the others as his possession, which will be un- 
 disputed. This is the only property, if such it may be called, 
 that they possess. 
 
 They are extremely fond of tobacco. Before one of them, 
 who had seated himself on the edge of the verandah, I pro- 
 duced some of the coveted weed. It was a study to see how 
 his face gleamed over, and his eyes followed the parcel with 
 the eagerness of a dog’s after a bone with which he is tempted. 
 To try him, a handful of very poor quality was offered him, 
 which he snatched at, but, after smelling and tasting it, he 
 rejected it with a sneer just as a monkey might have done, 
 fixing his eyes eagerly once more on the bundle first produced. 
 Some of this was handed to him, the whole of which, after 
 smelling, he rolled into a thick cigarette in a leaf, and smoked 
 with prodigious mouthfuls in perfect and delighted silence. 
 When he saw or was offered anything which he liked par- 
 ticularly, his eyes sparkled, and he expressed his eagerness 
 by the continued repetition of a peculiar sound, “ S—s—hé-6 ! 
 S-s-ho-6!” Some fruit and a large plateful of rice, offered 
 to him, were devoured more in the ravenous manner of a beast 
 than of aman. When he had finished it he rubbed his stomach, 
 to judge by its rotundity if he had had sufficient. 
 
 Their intelligence is not, however, to be called of a low order. 
 They evince considerable dexterity in the use of their spears, 
 and are wonderfully accurate marksmen with stones. They 
 post themselves behind some tree, in front of which is another 
 
IN SUMATRA. 243 
 
 
 
 wherein birds are lodged, and thence discharge the stone over 
 the one that hides them, so as to drop on the bird in the other. 
 When sick they use yarious leaves from which they make 
 decoctions; but their curative pharmacopceia is very limited. 
 I could not discover that they knew many poisons, but they 
 were best acquainted with such plants as possessed aphrodisiac 
 qualities, or were able to cause abortion. 
 
 In their truly wild state they leave their dead unburied in 
 the spot where they died, giving the place ever after a wide 
 berth; but where the influence of the village customs has 
 begun to affect them, the body is now generally buried face 
 downward, with a strip of bark below and above the body. 
 They seem to have no idea of a state after death: “‘ When we 
 are dead, we are dead.” 
 
 They have a tradition that they are the descendants of the 
 younger of three brothers : the two elder were circumcised in 
 the usual way: the younger it was found no instruments would 
 circumcise, a circumstance which so ashamed him that he 
 betook himself to the woods to live, and “ We are his descend- 
 ants,” they told me. 
 
 Leading so nomadic a life, the jurisdiction that can be 
 exercised by any one over them can be but very slight. Such 
 as it is, it is wielded by the elders of the party, who settle 
 disputes that arise between man and man, and impose punish- 
 ments for offences. | 
 
 It will be seen that the Kubus differ much in their habits 
 and ways of life from those about them; but whether they are 
 the last survivors of their race, or are only a straggling rem- 
 nant, kin to those about them, who at some past time were 
 driven from below the family rooftree to save their lives in the 
 forest fastness, and who, even when persecution has ceased, yet 
 cling to the shade of those pillars which in their need afforded 
 them the kindly refuge they sought, are questions on which 
 the osteological evidence must be appealed to. Dr. Garson 
 finds that the antero-posterior length in comparison to the 
 transverse breadth of the brim in my Kubu woman’s pelvis is ex- 
 treme; “indeed I have never,” he remarks, “seen or measured 
 a pelvis of so exaggerated a type, approaching in form nearly 
 to that of the anthropomorphous apes; the great antero- 
 posterior length of this specimen is due chiefly to the straight- 
 
 R 2 
 
244 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 ness of the sacrum. The index also obtained by comparison 
 of the upper and lower limbs with each other is 70 (the latter 
 being taken as 190). This high index shows an approximation 
 in the proportions of the limbs of the Kubus to those of the 
 anthropoid apes, and indicates that the length of the upper 
 limb is considerably greater in proportion than that of the 
 lower as compared to what obtains in Huropeans. In the 
 Negro and the Andamanese, on the other hand, the upper 
 limb is proportionately to the lower shorter than in Europeans. 
 
 “Unfortunately the number of Kubu skulls obtained is not 
 
 
 
 A KUBU MAN, AND WOMAN, SKETCHED IN THE VILLAGE OF SURULANGUN. 
 
 sufficiently large to justify very definite statements regarding 
 them, though I think sufficient to answer one question which 
 presents itself to us for solution, namely, as to what race the 
 Kubus are allied—whether they possess Negrito or Malayan 
 affinities. The character of the hair, the form of the nose, the 
 various characters of the skull, and the proportion of the limb- 
 bones show that they cannot have any near affinity to the 
 Negrito race found in various parts of the Indo-Malayan 
 Archipelago, but that they are decidedly Malays, and therefore 
 Mongoloid. The high nasi-malar angle, the high and broad 
 
IN: SUMATRA. 245 
 
 face, the flat forehead, owing to absence of all glabellar and 
 superciliary ridges, the slight sub-glabellar nasal depressions, 
 and the nomadic life they lead, are all highly characteristic of 
 the Mongolian race. 
 
 “'The frizzle in the hair seen in the drawings on pages 234 
 and 244 is probably to be accounted for by their having at 
 some remote period intermingled slightly with the Negrito 
 people, possibly during their migration southward. ‘There is, 
 however, evidence that they have for a long period been iso- 
 lated from the other surrounding inhabitants of the island, 
 and that hy absence of infusion of fresh blood they have come 
 to resemble one another so closely that they now possess 
 certain definite characteristics of a more or less stable nature.” 
 
 From the prison the Magistrate brought a thief who was 
 waiting to be sentenced, on whom on his apprehension there 
 had been found a bag with the chief paraphernalia of his trade, 
 in order that he might explain to me their use. In it was a 
 bunch of keys of various sizes, a little sack with rice-grains for 
 alluring fowls; a package of arsenic for more subtle bipeds; a 
 tube of soporific powder, whose recipe he was confiding enough 
 to give me: Take of the Gadung (a species of Arum whose un- 
 cooked roots induce a sort of intoxication) a few scrapings of 
 the skin where the stem joins the tuber; of white Katjubung 
 (Datura) the seeds of seven fruits; the excreta of seven mice ; 
 of arsenic a sufficient quantity. When dried, pounded, and 
 sifted through a cloth, to be thrown on the rice, or into the 
 cigarette of the victim, or to be blown towards him as occasion 
 offers. The thief admitted that he had tried its effects and 
 produced sleep on two men, and stolen from them many cloths 
 and gold dust to the value of several hundred rupees. In 
 addition to the somniferous compound there were two other 
 tubes of “medicine,” one for curing pain in the stomach, the 
 other a bright scarlet substance like vermilion which was a 
 deadly poison, he said, producing vomiting of blood, followed 
 by a terrible and incurable cough, if death did not at once 
 supervene. Its composition he did not know; he had bought 
 it in the Djambi country. In order, however, that its virtue 
 should not be lost it required to be set near the heart of a 
 buifalo or of a fowl at frequent intervals. It had besides the 
 valuable characteristic of preventing any harm from poison to 
 
246 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 the person who carried it about with him. The bag con- 
 tained, besides, three calendars of different forms—the thief’s 
 ephemeris—for computing the day and hour at which success 
 or failure would follow the enterprises of his interesting ou 
 exciting profession. 
 
 The people of the Rawas are of more open, lively and enlight- 
 ened character than those I had anywhere encountered. The 
 women had less of the bashful and timid disposition of Malays 
 of their sex, and were inclined to be talkative and gay, without 
 forwardness or want of respect—altogether a more likeable 
 people than any other in the Residency. 
 
 During my stay at Surulangun there occurred one of the 
 high Moslem feast-days, on which it is a custom of the chiefs 
 to come to express—“ inasmuch as it is a day of congratulation 
 among ourselves ”—their good-will and wishes towards the 
 Government and the person of the Magistrate. Accordingly 
 the chiefs of the nearer villages, along with a large company, 
 attired in their best, came to the residence of Mr. Kamp, who 
 (attended by the Commandant and myself) received them in 
 the verandah on to which they filed, with a respectful salaam, 
 to a seat in Oriental fashion. After a few minutes, to allow 
 every one to become still, the chief of the marga rose; and I 
 shall not soon forget the grace and dignity of his manner and 
 bearing and his perfect self-possession and composure. Making 
 a distinct, and separate bow first to the Magistrate (the ruler 
 of the region and representative of the Government), next to 
 myself (the stranger and his guest) and then to the military 
 Commandant—the order which the etiquette of the occasion 
 made very proper, and most becoming—he made a long 
 speech to the Magistrate perfect both in expression and in 
 courtly demeanour, and then addressed us in turn. The 
 phrases made use of—many of them, in the Malay language, 
 extremely terse—to express their own goodwill to the Govern- 
 ment were loyal, honourably submissive and hearty, and those 
 in which they acknowledged the benefits of good government, 
 and the just and mild administration of the Magistrate himself, 
 were most courtly and affectionate. To myself terms, aptly 
 chosen, were used to signify their pleasure at my visit to their 
 country, their sincere wishes that I might enjoy it, and the 
 assurances of their utmost hospitality and good-will. The 
 
IN SUMATRA. ae OAT 
 
 words addressed to the Commandant were very appropriate to 
 the commission he held in the district. Altogether it was a 
 specimen of the Malay at his best, as a courtier and a gentle- 
 man; and (to me) a most interesting exhibition of the ele- 
 gance, the politeness and dignity, which are characteristic of 
 their race. 
 
 The dances in vogue are, like themselves, quite different from 
 those in other districts; they are of several forms, are more 
 lively and are danced with much spirit, some of them having a 
 likeness to European performances, especially one where the 
 dancer in her evolutions balances on her head, shoulders and 
 hands lighted tapers, reminding one of the German Hugel- 
 hupftanz. 
 
 
 
 FLOWER OF CURCUMA ZERUMBET.—A, PROCESS OF THE ANTHER; B, TUBERCLE OF THE 
 ANTHER ; C0, ANTHER; D, THE STIGMA. FIG. 1, THE FLOWER SHOWING ITS ORGANS 
 IN THEIR NORMAL CONDITION; FIG. 2, WHEN BEING VISITED BY A BOMBUS. 
 
 The region about Surulangun is one of great interest, as it 
 les on the borders of that little-known forest stretching towards 
 Redjang and Djambi. Among the birds found here I obtained 
 the Palwornis longicauda, with its metallic-green crown, pink 
 head and black-ringed neck, one of the most chastely-coloured 
 of the parrots. They used to collect in the highest trees in the 
 neighbourhood, and were exceedingly difficult to shoot. Ina 
 tree near to that occupied by the parrots a species of bee-eater 
 (Merops sumatranus) flocked in such thousands that as they 
 congregated in the evenings they seemed like swarms of bees, 
 and the hum of their wings could be heard along way off. By 
 the roads here were some magnificent fig-trees and Diptero- 
 carpex. In the low forest a common species of the Ginger 
 
ae 
 
 248 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 family (Cureuma zerumbet) abounded; but in gathering it, I 
 observed that it was provided with one of the many contrivances 
 for securing cross-fertilisation which are so interesting to the 
 botanist, and give such intense pleasure to his contemplation 
 of even the commonest flowers. The flower-stem terminates 
 in a head of rich pink leaf-like organs called spathes, which 
 
 supply a brilliant alluring mass of colour to the rather incon-— 
 
 spicuous, odourless, though largish white flowers ; the pistil, or 
 organ for receiving the fructifying pollen from the stamens, 
 passes through a hole in the conjoint anther, and its head 
 is protected by a hood in the perianth from all insects and 
 intruders which are not large enough to convey its pollen to 
 another flower. When, however, there enters a bee or other 
 insect large enough to fill the mouth of the flower, it comes in 
 contact with the processes a, projecting from the lower margin 
 of the compound anther, which act precisely.as a lever, for 
 when these are pushed backward by the bee pressing in, in 
 quest of the nectar at the bottom of the flower, the anther is 
 rotated, carrying with it the stigma or top of the pistil on to the 
 back of the insect in the most beautiful manner. <A bee that 
 presses the long appendages of the anther, may rotate down 
 the anther so as to carry away pollen on its back, but it will 
 not fertilise the flower unless it is large enough to rotate the 
 composite anther sufficiently far to bring the little tubercles, 0, 
 also on to its back, the pressure of which alone rotates the 
 pistil tip on to the bee’s back. It is evident that the pistil 
 can never come into contact with the pollen of its own floret, 
 nor can any floret be fertilised unless the insect has entered 
 fully into a former flower, and smeared its back with a patch of 
 pollen of some length, as long at least as the interval between 
 the anther appendages and fhe pistil. 
 
 As the fertilising insect even begins to back out the lever 
 apparatus is instantly released, and the summit of the pistil 
 completely returns into the security of its hood. 
 
 When once fertilised the stamens thicken in their central 
 part and, contracting in a corkscrew fashion, draw the perianth 
 with the stamens and pistil to the bottom of the spathe out of 
 harm’s way and to make room for the next floret. Mr. Darwin 
 has drawn attention to the likeness of the Scitaminex in the 
 relation of their essential organs to those of the Orchidacez, and 
 
IN SUMATRA. 249 
 
 
 
 “= few examples perhaps could exhibit this similarity more than 
 the one under notice; its pollen moreover being less friable 
 than that in most species of its family, and singularly viscid. 
 
 I could have spent many months investigating the natural 
 history of this district, but, time being short, I pressed on to 
 reach Muara Mengkulem, whence I hoped to be able to make 
 an expedition into the Djambi Lands. Using his great influ- 
 ence with its chiefs, the Pangeran of the Rawas might be able 
 to obtain entrance for a white man not a Hollander, of whose 
 entrance the Sultan was naturally extremely jealous and 
 afraid. From Surulangun the road kept by the north side of 
 the Rawas river, to the halfway village of Pulau Kida, near 
 which is the boundary between the diluvium of recent age 
 and the Paleozoic strata, which, extending away north-west to 
 Limun, contains the auriferous rocks which have made that 
 country famous for the quality and colour of its gold. I passed 
 many people washing the earth of the high banks of the river ; 
 and at a spot some sixty feet above its present bed, opposite 
 where it is obstructed by a cataract a mile and a halfin length, 
 I saw an ancient mine of the natives. Late in the afternoon 
 we reached Muara Menekulem. 
 
250 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 SOJOURN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY—continued. 
 
 Muara Mengkulem—Refused entrance into the Djambi Sultanate—Napal 
 Litjin—Peak of Karang-nata—Geological formation-—Botanical features 
 —Birds—Hemipteron milked by ants—Rakit life—Bigin-telok—VW ater 
 roads—An escape from drowning—Pau—River squall—Approach to 
 Palembang—River life and its massive joy—The town of Palembang— 
 Return to Batavia. 
 
 ON arriving at Muara Mengkulem I was bitterly disappointed 
 to hear from the Pangeran that he considered it extremely 
 improbable that the Panghulus of Djambi (all the chiefs of 
 the villages in Djambi are priests, the people being bigoted 
 Mahomedans) would consent to my traversing their country, 
 as there was a great deal of fighting going on in the interior. 
 He, however, consented to send a messenger to those among 
 them who were his friends at Bukit-bulan five miles distant, 
 explaining who I was and for what object I wished to visit their 
 country, to which after an interval of some days a reply was 
 brought, that though personally favourable to me they could 
 not be surety for my safety, and advised me not to attempt to 
 enter without the mandate of the Sultan, meaning not the 
 Sultan recognised by the Dutch Government, but the previous 
 deposed ruler, who had taken up his court in the interior of 
 the country and whom all the Djambi people recognised. | 
 This was very disappointing, but I had fared no worse than 
 the Dutch Mid-Sumatra expedition, which, two years before, 
 had been advised to turn back at that same place. I proceeded 
 a stage still farther up the river to Napal Litjin, my farthest 
 northern station, a very picturesque village at the foot of 
 another of those nearly perpendicular limestone peaks of which 
 
 I have made mention more than once, as lying on the eastern 
 outskirts of the Barisan range. 
 
IN SUMATRA. | 251 
 
 The ascent of the Karang-nata, as the principal peak is 
 called, was by no means easy, as its white cliffs—which from 
 below glinted prettily through the vegetation—were almost 
 perpendicular, and had to be scrambled up by digging one’s 
 fingers and toes well into the crevices. It has several caves full 
 of stalactites, one especially being of great dimensions, whose 
 numerous chambers were tenanted by thousands of bats, whose 
 stifling guano-like odour met me half-way down. ‘The hill is 
 composed of a broad band of crystalline limestone bedded 
 between Devonian slates tilted up on edge, which at the base 
 of the hill run under the diluvium of the Palembang Plain. 
 The larger cave is in its interior quite protected from the severe 
 effects of the weather, but it bears evident traces of what must, 
 I think, be attributed to sea erosion. The summit is a vast 
 rockery of disjointed blocks, with trees growing in the crevices, 
 their stems, as well as the crannies and faces of the rocks, 
 loaded with ferns and orchids (Cxlogyne, spp.) bearing trosses 
 of flowers more than a yard in length ; with various species of 
 Melastoma exhibiting bright flowers or pink fruits, but princi- 
 pally with a shrubby species, in great profusion, of Cyrtandrez, 
 having a flower of a rich purple-blue colour, which to my great 
 satisfaction I perceived to belong to a new species, which I 
 have-named Boea Treubit,* and probably to a new genus of 
 that beautiful family. During the ten days—to my regret all 
 the time I could spare—of my stay in this region I made 
 large additions—some 200 species—to my herbarium among 
 the specimens of trees, one being a species of nutmeg with 
 fruit as large as the largest orange. 
 
 Here, too, I noticed a singular case of ants milking a winged 
 
 _Hemipteron, which of course could not be kept in captivity, 
 
 as they do many species of the} wingless aphides. The 
 Hemipteron sat quietly, evidently enjoying the operation, and 
 at frequent intervals discharged a drop of matter, which was 
 eagerly sipped up by the ants. 
 
 I have already spoken of the great beauty of the riverside 
 vegetation coming down the Rupit which ran through a 
 less great forest than that between Napal Litjin and Muara 
 
 * So named in honour of Dr. Melchior Treub, the esteemed Director of the 
 Botanical Gardens in Buitenzorg, to whose kind aid and influence I owed 
 much during my stay in the Archipelago. 
 
252 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Mengkulem, which is perfectly virgin and is perhaps of 
 as vast an age as the period which has elapsed since the 
 beginning of the upraising of the 180 miles of country that 
 now separates it from the sea. The display of flower and fruit 
 along the Rawas river was still finer, and, in fact, it could 
 scarcely have been richer. While Oak-trees in full blossom 
 characterised the Rupit, Dipterocarpex, the family which gives 
 us the Camphor-tree and supplies a great deal of the dammar 
 of commerce, and some of which are among the tallest of 
 trees, were along the Rawas the distinguishing feature—though 
 clumps of oak were plentiful enough too—the brilliant pink 
 and rose coloured “wings” that adorn their ripening fruits 
 having the appearance of tassels hanging from the tips of 
 the branches all over their immense crowns. Over some 
 of the highest trees, and spread continuously across the forest 
 for hundreds of yards at a stretch, was a Leguminose climber 
 (Bauhinia) with rich orange and scarlet flowers. Blue fishing- 
 hawks (Polietus humilis) sat in motionless watch on the 
 projecting limbs of trees; Rhinoceros birds (Anthracocerus 
 convexus and Rhytidoceros subruficollis) clambered on the fruit- 
 laden fig-trees, conspicuous by the rich colour of their beaks 
 -—derived from the oil-gland at the tail in B. rhinoceros. 
 Herons and Bitterns hunted in the sandy bends, kingfishers 
 flew out from every corner, and flocks of sand-plovers zig- 
 zageed away with a-frightened scream as we passed along ; 
 while on the projecting stones on the river, black cormorants 
 (Phalocracoraz) eagerly watched for their finny prey, and 
 flocks of pure white egrets displayed to advantage their spot- 
 less plumage against the dark foliage of the tops of the trees. 
 On my return to Muara Mengkulem, I had at once to prepare 
 to start for the coast. While I was packing up I sent down men 
 to Pulau-kida, the village below the cataract, to construct for 
 me a Rakit in which to travel to Palembang. In these large 
 house-like structures—floated on bamboo rafts—the whole 
 produce of the up regions of the river are conveyed to the coast 
 markets. Mine, however, while resembling the trade Rakit in 
 appearance, was fitted up with much regard to comfort, for I 
 intended the remainder of my Sumatra journey to be a pleasure 
 trip. Ona raft 40 feet long and 15 wide, made of the largest 
 bamboos seven or eight tiers deep, was erected a neat house, sur- 
 

 
 IN SUMATRA. 253 
 
 rounded on all sides by a platform under the shade of the roof. 
 I divided it into a writing room and sleeping chamber in front, 
 and a store for my collections and a dormitory for my servants 
 behind. Behind this was another long raft slightly narrower, 
 floored with earth on which a trellis frame-work stood, and 
 the whole housed over. On this earthen floor a fire was 
 continually kept burning to dry the bundles of herbarium laid 
 on the trellis-work over it. 
 
 I had looked forward with intensest pleasure to this mode of 
 travel, and it was therefore with extreme satisfaction that, on 
 the 27th of November, 1881, I arrived from Muara Mengkulem 
 and took possession of my floating home. Inside, I lined 
 my sitting-room with white cotton cloth, hung a few drawings, 
 photographs, and trophies about the walls, fixed my table, 
 and laid out my books and the implements of my profession. 
 The outside I hung round profusely with living orchids, some 
 of them in magnificent flower. Next morning, full of the most 
 buoyant feelings, I loosed its cable and let it glide off down the 
 Rawas River, along a great avenue broken at distant intervals 
 only by gambir gardens and factories of Catechu. 
 
 All the villages along the river had been informed of my 
 coming, and on notifying my approach by the beating of a 
 gong, a complement of rowers—more properly of pilots— came 
 off in small boats and relieved their fellows of the village 
 above. In the upper reaches of the river it required 16 pilots 
 to guide this long flotilla—whose duty it was to keep the 
 stern of the Rakit straight to the stream especially at corners 
 and rapids, by pulling on long fixed lever-like oars at stem and 
 stern, which they worked standing. All day long I collected 
 plants from the river banks, by means of a light skiff, as the 
 stream moved very slowly, anchoring each night under some 
 ereat tree by the margin. 
 
 After a seven days’ journey I halted for a more prolonged 
 stay at the village of Bigin-telok, to make some closer 
 acquaintance with the flora of the flatter lands which began 
 there. It was then the wet season, and the surrounding country 
 was under water for miles from the river bank, and _ botan- 
 ising from a boat was a curious experience ; for after entering 
 some side stream a little way, all distinetion of stream or 
 no stream was lost, and I could simply sail about among 
 
254 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 the trees in any direction I wished, but such work required 
 the attendance of a good guide. Jambus (Jambosa spp.) 
 seemed to be among the most common trees, and their long 
 white stamened flowers, falling on the water, glided down the 
 stream like so many stars. The whole surface of the water 
 was covered, absolutely in a close sheet, with petals, fruits — 
 and leaves, of innumerable species. In placid corners some- 
 times I noted a collected mass nearly half a foot deep, among 
 which, on examination, I could scarcely find a leaf that was 
 perfect, or that remained attached to its rightful neighbour, 
 so that were they to become imbedded in some soft muddy 
 spot, and in after ages to reappear in fossil form, they would 
 afford a few difficult puzzles to the Paleontologist, both to 
 separate and to put together. 
 
 In many of these places the water reached to the great 
 depth of 60 and 70 feet, and swarmed with crocodiles. 
 While shooting one day on such a spot, from a small skiff 
 capable of holding only myself and the man who oared it, I 
 fired at a bird among some stranded logs, and the recoil of my 
 gun, perched as I was on the tip of the prau, overbalanced 
 me into the water. Had not at the moment of falling my 
 left hand unconsciously caught the side of the boat, I should 
 have fared ill, for I had instinctively clutched my fowling- 
 piece, and was besides wearing a pair of heavy shooting boots. 
 My weight on the side would have capsized the skiff had not 
 my rower righted it by a self-preservatory act, which drew my 
 head out of the water, when I scrambled into the boat. ‘The 
 poor fellow was utterly paralysed with terror, and presented so 
 comical a countenance that I could not help laughing at him. 
 He would scarcely allow me to move again in the boat, and 
 had I not used threats, he would have paddled me back to the 
 village without waiting even to pick up the bird I had shot. 
 ‘«¢ What would have awaited me,” he moaned in a most com- 
 plaining tone, as if I had jumped into the river to bring woe 
 on him, “if I had rowed you out and returned without you? 
 ‘The whole village,” he sobbed, the tears actually appearing on 
 his eyelids, “ would not have been able to pay the blood-money 
 for you, and I should never have been able to stay any longer 
 there.” Not a word escaped him as to my feelings on encoun- 
 tering a crocodile. He was evidently relieved of the heaviest 
 

 
 IN SUMATRA. 255 
 
 responsibility he had ever borne when he deposited me again 
 on my own Rakit. 
 
 Some of the trees which were growing near the mouth of 
 the side streams, could the forty or fifty feet of water in which 
 they stood have been removed to show them from their roots 
 upwards, must have been stupendous specimens of arboreal 
 vegetation. I gathered a slender species of Pandan (P. helio- 
 copus), standing above the water to a height of thirty to thirty- 
 five feet, where the water measured between forty-five and fifty 
 feet, giving seventy to eighty feet for its true height. Here 
 I caught, in the act of swimming across the river, a lovely little 
 Carnivore (Linsang gracilis), one of the most beautiful of its 
 race, which, though I kept alive for a long time, never, to my 
 regret, became very tame, and therefore did not gain in my 
 affection the place that its beauty deserved, which was given 
 to another member of my menagerie, the curious crepuscular 
 honey-stealing Malay Bear. 
 
 My next halting place was the village of Pau, situated a little 
 below the junction of the water of the Rawas region with the 
 Musi which comes past Tebbing-tinggi, a celebrated prau 
 building depot doing a great trade with Palembang. These 
 boats, from six to seven feet in breadth, are made from a 
 single tree stem, out of which no one not acquainted with the 
 manner of their construction, on seeing it newly felled, would 
 believe that a boat of these dimensions could possibly be 
 made. When the stem has been partially excavated, fires are 
 kindled in the hollow, and bars of wood changed at intervals 
 for longer ones, are forced in crosswise to separate the sides. 
 The greatest possible care is necessary in this operation, as 
 the heat often at the very last will start a knot, or crack the 
 log, rendering all their work of months useless. A perfect 
 pantjalan, therefore, costs a large sum. 
 
 Pleasant as “rakiting”’ was, it had its perils, for where the 
 river widened out greatly and decreased in current, the wind 
 blowing across the stream rendered navigation very dangerous. 
 About 100 miles above Palembang (and 150 from the sea) 
 we were caught in a heavy squall of wind and rain in the night 
 time, which simply took the entire control of our rather 
 unwieldy vessels. So intensely dark was the night that we had 
 no idea, except when a momentary gleam of lightning ht up 
 
256 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 the scene, in what direction we were being borne, and we spent 
 several hours of great anxiety lest we should be driven on one 
 of the many sunken tree stems with which the river was 
 studded. | 
 
 Four days sail below Pau and past the confluence of the 
 Lamatang, with its complement of water and commerce from 
 Lahat and Muara Enim, we found ourselves in the midst of 
 erowing signs of approach to a great centre of activity, making 
 up for the monotony of the landscape through which we had 
 for a day or two been travelling ; for the low banks had shut 
 out all view, and their distance on both sides, so broad was 
 the river, had precluded me from identifying their vegetation. 
 Large Palembang praus bright in scarlet or blue decorations, 
 began to be met in little fleets, being laboriously poled up 
 stream close under the banks out of the current ; and every little 
 while a gay skiff, propelled by two or three flashing oars, would 
 enliven and glide athwart the picture, and disappearing again 
 leave us to our plodding way. In the almost dead water we 
 overtook and were overtaken in turn by numberless Rakits, 
 single or in immense strings of from twenty to thirty made 
 fast one behind the other, often nearly half a mile in length, 
 and broad rafts hundreds of yards in length, mostly of laurel 
 wood, for the cabinet makers for whom Palembang is famous. 
 
 At sundown on the 20th of December I moored, not far 
 from the confluence of the Ogan, which brings to the capital 
 the tribute of Muara-dua and Batu-radja, in sight of Palem- 
 bang, amid a curious scene. Below my Rakit there stretched 
 away to a great distance a broad unbroken plain of log rafts, 
 on which a large population of men, women, and children was 
 encamped ; some were under the shelter of a few palm-leaf mats, 
 others, detected by the light playing on their faces, crouched in 
 small groups here and there round little fires, the whole, in the 
 dying light of the still evening, forming a rather weird scene. 
 
 It was indeed with feelings of regret that I found I had 
 arrived within sight of the end of a journey which will always 
 remain in my memory as one of the deepest enjoyments of my 
 life. Crowned by the last month of river-life, with its varying 
 impressions and sensations, it had been full of the intensest 
 eratification, and still is when I recall that long panorama- 
 like picture. 
 
IN SUMATRA. 25 
 
 To recall the magnificent flora of the upper reaches of the river 
 almost makes me retract the statement that the tropics present 
 few flowers ; for so blossom-spangled a road it would be difficult 
 to match anywhere ;—it is only in the beginning of the wet 
 season, however, and along the steep banks of some such 
 river, wide enough to let in the sunlight and the free breath 
 of heaven, that one must look for, or indeed expect to be 
 able to see such a display. ‘The singular trackless streets, 
 roads, and paths of water by which I rambled among the 
 forest avenues are never to be forgotten reminiscences; nor 
 lower down the slow majesty of the widening river between 
 its level banks fronted with tall reeds, dark-foliaged figs, and 
 groves of Eriodendron trees, with their stiff trifid arms; and 
 at last the broad expanse of its united affluents by whose 
 sources I had for so many months encamped, drawing towards 
 itself the atoms of produce of two degrees of latitude, and 
 concentrating them into a hot nucleus of commercial life and 
 activity. Intermingled with all these memories are a thousand 
 indescribable vignettes ; miniatures of quaint nooks and sandy 
 bays, and embossed villages, of out-of-the-world ways and 
 habits and customs, of the intermittent comers and goers; of 
 the changing features of the river's face itself in wind and 
 rain, in early morning or noonday sun, in evening shades, 
 under the pale moon, and in the solemn silence of the 
 darkness. Surveyed from my window in the intervals of 
 occupation, or seated under the verandah in the cool evenings, 
 this changing landscape of days and days (so placid and 
 imperceptible was to me the motion of our gliding down, 
 and so full of that exhilarating relief from labour and 
 fatigue) seemed to move past my eyes of its own accord, and 
 afforded me a continued and massive sensation of delight 
 that nothing could disturb, and which can be but faintly 
 conceived by those who have not experienced this uncommon 
 mode of travel which is absolutely different from that by any 
 other water-carriage. 
 
 My very last stage, however, was through, perhaps, as un- 
 wonted a scene as I may ever look on; it was an eight hours’ sail 
 through the city of Palembang itself, which is certainly one of 
 the curiosities of the East. Throwing off from our anchorage 
 
 about eight o’clock in the morning, we slid down between miles 
 8 
 
258 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 and miles of log-rafts moored to the banks, packed close 
 together forming an immense pavement, with an abundant 
 population; then on each side Rakits large and small, in all 
 positions—sideways, lengthwise, crossways, choke-a-block, as if 
 the river had swept away a village or two and stranded them 
 there anyhow—to which a continuous stream of little skiffs were 
 constantly bringing the dealers in the different products, who 
 might be seen in little knots on the steering stages discussing 
 terms over siri and betel. Anxious to make advantageous 
 terms, eager traders were shooting past on a several days’ jour- 
 ney up stream to meet expected and valuably loaded Rakits, 
 which, if large and freighted with dammar, gum elastic, gutta- 
 percha, will cost as much as £500. As no bamboo grows near 
 Palembang, and none of the larger sorts nearer than the 
 sources of the river, the Rakit itself is an eager subject of 
 barter, and always fetches a sum which largely remunerates 
 the cost of its building and transport the whole length of the 
 river. Seaward from this heterogeneous collection, which was 
 not permitted to pass beyond the upper boundaries of the town 
 to clog its avenues, I entered Palembang proper, a single row 
 of cabins on each bank, with their faces to the river, built on 
 immense log rafts which stretched out in front of them as a 
 broad platform, forming their landing stage and approach— 
 on one side the Malay portion of the town, on the other the 
 Chinese shops and abodes—the whole rising and falling 
 many feet with every tide. Hverywhere innumerable little 
 boats flashed about over the bright sunlit water, here with 
 a woman in a blue tunic and a deep scarlet head-cloth calling 
 out her store of fruits; there, propelled by urgent arms 
 conveying the busy merchant; and from a hidden corner 
 where it had been lying in wait, would dart out, like a spider 
 from its lair, some other prau, and lassoing a slowly passing 
 log would pull in again with an item of livelihood gleaned 
 from the flotsam harvest which the river was continually 
 bringing down. 
 
 At length a bend of the river brought me in sight of the 
 European and official quarter of the city situated on the 
 northern bank, opposite which lay at anchor, steamers and 
 vessels of many rigs, all looking gigantic to my eyes, unac- 
 eustomed for so many months to such a sight. Slowly 
 
IN SUMATRA. 259 
 
 floating down the river, J moored, with the Resident’s* per- 
 mission, opposite the Residency stairs. Instantly a curious 
 crowd that never dispersed during the whole of my stay, 
 lined the bank to see and discuss the unusual flotilla, which on 
 my arrival presented a singularly picturesque appearance, as 
 the entire exterior of my Rakit was one mass of blossoms from 
 the orchids suspended round it, and its cargo of plants, skins, 
 living birds, and Honey-bears, and the beautiful little Linsang 
 formed an unwonted shipment. 
 
 Palembang, the capital of the Residency, contains a great 
 population of from 50,000 to 60,000 souls, of Arab, Chinese, 
 Javanese and Malays. They speak the Malay language inter- 
 mixed with much Javanese, and write it either in Arabic or 
 Javanese characters. It is the seat of a great export and 
 import trade with Batavia, Singapore, Siam, and China, and is 
 famed for its manufacture of furniture, especially of laquer 
 work, made by Chinese brought for the purpose from their own 
 country by rich Palembang-Chinese artificers, and for the weav- 
 ing of rich sarongs of silk interwrought with gold into most 
 elegant designs. Everywhere one perceived signs of business 
 and activity, but I saw none so eager for employment as the 
 ferry-boat men, who at the various landing-places screamed 
 themselves hoarse at every approaching passenger, crying up 
 the special qualities of their boats, and the generously low 
 sum for which they would condescend to ferry one over, and 
 then with sarcastic jokes and laughter falling to upbraid and 
 praise the successful ferryman and his boat; they might have 
 been Egyptian donkey drivers or English omnibus conductors, 
 who had changed their skin and their occupation, rather than 
 staid Malays. 
 
 The most important buildings are the combined palace and 
 barracks of the Sultans built in 1780 by, as report goes, a 
 European, a strong, massive edifice surrounded by a stone 
 rampart in which now the garrison is quartered; the elegant 
 house of the Resident, looking out on the river from a little 
 distance back ; the Chinese Joss-house, and the Mosque floored 
 with marble, and having a minaret 100 feet high. It is nearly 
 150 years of age ; but it certainly looks better at a little distance 
 
 * At that time, the distinguished and urbane officer, Mr. Laging Tobias, 
 afterwards Governor of Acheen. 
 s 2 
 
260 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 off than at close quarters. Besides these, a little way from 
 the town, are the tombs of the Sultans, where many of the 
 devout go to pray; but perhaps the most interesting and 
 curious to the Western visitor—a spot held in the utmost 
 veneration by the Palembangers—is the grave of Sekandar 
 Alam, or Alexander the Great, whom the Sultans and most 
 of the chiefs of Palembang claim as their illustrious fore- 
 father. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of the Government offices stands the 
 market, which—as are many of the houses, especially those of 
 the Chinese shop-keepers—is substantially built of stone, a 
 material which along with iron-wood, was during the reign of 
 the Sultans forbidden to all save members of the Royal house 
 as a building material. 
 
 On Sunday, the 25th December, twelve months from my 
 starting from the mouth of the Semangka River, I sailed for 
 Batavia, and the last pictures of Sumatra that I recall are the 
 heaving and surging in the troubled water of our screw of the 
 floating dwellings on both banks as far as the eye could reach 
 to what seemed their imminent destruction, attended by the 
 overthrow from the gaping and closing of the log platforms 
 of the children at their play (some of them actually into the 
 river), their ineffectual scrambling to regain their footing, 
 and the attempts of their more unconcerned elders to retain 
 theirs on the unstable foundations of their home—in some 
 aspects a very ludicrous scene; and the interminable stretch 
 of nipa-palms that cover, in a low dense forest, the watery 
 uninhabitable mud-flats that extend for fifty miles from the 
 city to the sea. 
 
 After making a short call at Muntok in Banka, between 
 which and Sumatra a plateau covered by only three fathoms of 
 water exists, [ was landed on the 27th of the month in Batavia, 
 where I at once set about my preparations for an extended 
 journey to the less civilised islands in the Far Hast of the 
 Archipelago. : 
 
ae 
 
 IN SUMATRA. 261 
 
 APPENDIX TO PART III. 
 
 
 
 I—ON THE OSTEOLOGICAL CHARACTERS OF THE 
 KUBUS OF SUMATRA. 
 
 By J. G. Garson, M.D., F.Z.S., Memb. Anthrop. Inst.; Royal Col. Surg., 
 Eng.; Lecturer on Comparative Anatomy, Charing Cross Hospital. 
 
 Tux osteological remains of the Kubus of Sumatra, placed in my hands for 
 examination by Mr. H. O. Forbes, consisted of the skeleton of a female and 
 asingle skull,also that of a female, which are now in the possession of the 
 British Museum. Both specimens were those of adults of middle age. 
 
 The height of seven males (measured by Mr. Forbes) averaged 1569 mm., 
 or almost exactly the same as that of adult Englishwomen (1592 mm.), 
 while the average height of the five females was 1498 mm. ; the difference 
 between the stature of the male and female Kubus is therefore 103 mm. 
 The height of the skeleton placed in my hands, estimated from the length 
 of the femur, is 1450 mm., which, allowing for the soft parts existing in 
 the living body, would indicate the stature of this individual to be about 
 the average of the females measured by Mr. Forbes. 
 
 Characters of the Skull. 
 
 Cranium.—The appearance presented by the drawings taken from 
 life by Mr. Forbes shows that the skull is of moderate length, somewhat 
 narrow transversely in the region of the forehead, and flat in the glabella 
 and superciliary regions: the malars are prominent, the nose becomes 
 gradually elevated towards the tip, its contour following a wide arc; the 
 chin is narrow but not pointed; the lips are thick and prominent, and 
 the hair is straight with a tendency to curl. 
 
 Turning to the skulls we are at once struck by the strong resemblance 
 they bear to one another in general appearance, the only difference 
 observable being that that belonging to the skeleton is somewhat larger 
 generally than the other. This resemblance between the two skulls is 
 confirmed by an examination of the principal measurements, which are 
 given in the annexed table. The maximum length of the one is 174 mm., 
 and of the other 173 mm., while their maximum breadth is 185 mm. and 
 136 mm. respectively. These measurements give a cephalic index to the 
 one of 77°6, and to the other of 78°6, which places them in the mesate- 
 cephalic group of Flower, and of the Frankfiirter Verstenditng. 
 
 The altitudinal index (the ratio of the basio-bregmatic height to the 
 maximum length) differs somewhat in the the two skulls, that belong- 
 
 -ing to the skeleton being considerably higher than the other; but in 
 
 neither instance does the height exceed the breadth. 
 The general form of the cranium, as seen in the norma verticalis, is 
 
262 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 narrow in front, the sides straight and gradually diverging to the parietal 
 eminences, which are situated near the posterior border of the parietal 
 bones. The differences in the broadening out of the cranium from the 
 anterior frontal to the parietal regions in the two skulls is well seen by 
 comparing the relation of the minimum and maximum frontal breadths 
 of each with their respective maximum breadth, this latter being taken 
 as 100. In the skull belonging to the skeleton, which we will designate 
 as No. 1, the indices are 67°4, 79:2, and 100; in the other skull, which we 
 will call No. 2, they are 64, 77°2,and 100. The glabellar region is flat and 
 smooth, corresponding to outline No. 0 of Broca in skull No. 1, and to 
 No. 1. in skull No. 2; superciliary ridges are entirely absent. The fore- 
 head rises somewhat vertically to the level of the frontal eminences 
 (which are not prominent), and then slopes backwards and upwards till 
 it attains its maximum, which is situated in the parietal region. Viewed 
 from the norma frontalis, the arch of the top of the cranium is markedly 
 flat, giving the stephanic region a somewhat angular appearance. In the 
 parieto-occipital region the contour of the cranium falls with a moderate 
 curve towards the foramen magnum. The general surface of the cranium 
 is smooth, and the muscular ridges are little pronounced. The mastoid 
 processes are feebly developed. 
 
 The sutures are very simple in No. 2, but somewhat more complicated 
 in No. 1, though still simple; those in the former being represented by 
 Broca’s outlines of complication of sutures No. 2 for the fronto-parietal, 
 and No. 8 for the parieto-occipital suture, the latter by No. 2—8 for the 
 fronto-parietal, and No. 4 for the parieto-occipital. Wormian bones are 
 not present in either skull. In No. 2 the sutures are more open than in 
 No. 1,* in which the coronal and sagittal sutures are approaching 
 obliteration. 
 
 With regard to the projection of the zygomatic arches, in relation to 
 the contour of the bi-stephanic region, No. 2 is slightly phenozygous, 
 but in No. 1 the arches are not visible, bi-zygo-stephanic index being 
 87°7 in No. 1, and 91:3 in No. 2. In my paper on the Cranial Characters 
 of the Natives of Timor-laut,t I showed that skulls in which this index is 
 90 and upwards are phenozygous; these Kubu skulls are therefore on 
 the border-line between the two conditions. The inion is fully developed 
 in both skulls, being represented by Broca’s outline No. 1. 
 
 The average horizontal circumference of the two skulls is 490 mm., 10 
 
 mm. less than the average circumference of the heads of the five living 
 females measured by Mr. Forbes. 
 _ Lacial portion.—The nasal bones have a very characteristic shape; they 
 are not moderately prominent in respect to the plane of the face, and 
 form a gentle curve from above downwards, being intermediate in curve 
 between Broca’s outlines Nos. 1 and 2. The nasal aperture differs in the 
 two skulls: in No. 1 it is longer and slightly narrower than in No. 2, the 
 index of the former being 50, while that of the latter is 56°8, which places 
 No. 1. in the middle of the mesorhine group (48—53), and No. 2 well 
 within the platyrhine (above 53). The inferior border is nearly straight 
 transversly, and is fairly well defined. ‘The nasal spine of No. 1 is 
 Oe by Broca’s outline No. 2, and in skull No. 2 by the outline of 
 
 Oa 
 
 The orbits are somewhat more rounded in No. 1 than in No. 2, the 
 orbital index of the former being 89:2 and of the latter 80:1. The 
 margins of the orbits are thin and sharply defined. 
 
 * Report of the Anthrop. Committee of the Brit. Assoc. (Rep. Brit, Assoc. 
 p. 260, 1883). | 
 
 t Journ, Anthrop. Inst. vol. xiii. p. 891 (1884). 
 
IN SUMATEA. 263 
 
 The malar bones are narrow vertically, flattened anteriorly, and curve 
 abruptly backwards, which gives that marked prominence at the malar 
 point so well seen in the drawings by Mr. Forbes. The nasi-malar angle 
 of No. 1 skull is 148°, and of the other 140°. 
 
 The alveolar index of the two skulls is very similar, being 96°9 in No. 1, 
 and 98°8 in No.2. They are therefore on the border-land_ tiguratively 
 speaking, between orthognathous and mesognathous. 
 
 The palato-maxillary index of No. 1 is 126, and of No. 2, 1204, 
 measuring the length and breadth of this region according to Professor 
 Flower’s plan. The palate is comparatively flat. The teeth are in good 
 condition, small in size, and little worn. In No. 1 the two upper incisors 
 have been lost during life. 
 
 The relation of the breadth of the middle portion of the face, from the 
 alveolar point to the nasion, to the bi-zygomatic breadth (the latter being 
 taken as 100), is as 52°5 and 53°9 to 100 in the two skulls respectively. 
 This is the mid-facial index of Kolmann, and shows a very close similarity 
 in the two skulls. 
 
 The different measurements of the mandible show great similarity. 
 The chief point to be noted in this bone is the obtuseness of the symphesial 
 angle, which is 84° in the one, and 88° in the other skull, indicating a 
 much more vertical chin than obtains generally in Europeans. 
 
 The pelvis not being articulated, ] was unable to ascertain all the 
 measurements which should be ee but I measured the transverse and 
 antero-posterior diameter of the brim, which are undoubtedly the most 
 important dimensions. The transverse diameter of the brim measured 
 177 mm., and the antero-posterior diameter 122, which gives a pelvic 
 index (taking the transverse diameter as 100) of 1043. The index of 
 forty-nine European female pelves, measured by Verneau and myself, 
 was 79:0; while that of thirteen Andamanese, measured by myself, was 
 96:2. The antero-posterior length in comparison to the transverse 
 breadth of the brim in this Kubu woman’s pelvis is extreme; indeed I 
 have never seen or measured a pelvis of so exaggerated a type, approach- 
 ing in form nearly to that of the anthropomorphous apes. The great 
 antero-posterior length of this specimen is due chiefly to the straightness 
 of the sacrum. It is extremely desirable that additional specimens 
 should be procured, so as to ascertain whether such a form of pelvis is 
 normal in this race. 
 
 The scapular index, or the ratio of the breadth of the scapula to the 
 length, the latter being taken as 100, is 72°95 in the Kubu, in the 
 Europeans (Flower and myself) 65°2, in Negroes (Broca) 68° 16, and in 
 Andamanese (Flower) 69°8. 
 
 The limb bones are slender; the index obtained by comparison of the 
 upper and lower limbs with each other—the inter-membral index, or the 
 length of the humerus and radius added together—compared with that 
 of the femur and tibia (the latter being taken as 100), is 70. This index 
 in Europeans measured by Professors Broca and Flower was found to be 
 69-2 and 69°73 respectively ; in Negroes Broca ascertained it to be 68°27 ; 
 and in nineteen Andamanese Flower found it to be 68°3. 
 
 This high index shows an approximation in the proportions of the limbs 
 of the Kubus to those of the anthropoid apes, and indicates that the 
 length of the upper limb is considerably greater in proportion than that 
 of the lower as compared to what obtains in Europeans. In the Negro 
 and the Andamanese, on the other hand, the upper limb is proportion- 
 ately shorter than the lower. 
 
 The femoro-humeral index, or the ratio of the humerus to the femur, 
 the latter being taken as 100, is 75:2. In twenty Europeans measured 
 
264 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 by Broca and Flower it is 72°45, in sixteen Negroes (Broca) 69°79, and in 
 nineteen Andamanese (Flower) 69°8. In this index also the variation 
 in the Kubus from the Europeans is in an opposite direction to that of 
 the Negroes and the Andamanese. 
 
 The femoro-tibial index, or the ratio of the tibia to the femur, the 
 latter being taken as 100, is 80°7 in the Kubu, 82:1 in the European 
 (Flower), 84:7 in the Negro (Humphrey), and 84:5 in the Andamanese 
 (Flower). 
 
 The humero-radial index, or the length of the radius compared to the 
 humerus, the latter being taken as 100, is 74:1, in Europeans (Broca and 
 Flower) 73°9, in Negroes (Broca) 79:4, and in Andamanese (Flower) 81:0. 
 
 Relations of the Kubus to other Races. 
 
 T have already said that on comparing the two skulls side by side, one 
 is struck with the close resemblance they bear to one another. There is 
 quite as close a resemblance between these two skulls as exists between 
 Andamanese skulls. Such a condition occurring in a sufficiently large series 
 would indicate purity of race, or at least isolation for a long period of 
 years. Unfortunately the number of Kubu skulls before us is not 
 sufficiently large to justify very definite statements regarding them, 
 though I think sufficient to answer one question which presents itself 
 to us for solution: namely, as to what race the Kubus are allied—whether 
 they possess Negrito or Malayan affinities. The character of the hair, 
 the form of the nose, the various characters of the skull, and the pro- 
 portion of the limb bones show that they cannot have any near affinity 
 to the Negrito race found in various parts of the Indo-Malayan Archi- 
 pelago, but that they are decidedly Malays, and therefore Mongoloid. 
 The high nasi-malar angle, the high and broad face, the flat forehead 
 owing to ahsence of all glabellar and superciliary ridges, the slight sub- 
 glabellar nasal depressions, and the nomadic life they lead, are all highly 
 characteristic of the Mongolian race. 
 
 The frizzle in the hair seen in the drawings by Mr. Forbes is probably 
 to he accounted for by their having at some remote period intermingled 
 slightly with tae Negrito people, possibly during their migration 
 southward. There is, however, evidence that they have for a long period 
 been isolated from the other surrounding inhabitants of the island, and 
 that by absence of infusion of fresh blood they have come to resemble one 
 another so closely that they now possess certain definite characteristics of 
 a more or less stable nature. It is, however, very desirable that these 
 observations should be extended by a study of a larger quantity of 
 material from which to gather information than has been at my disposal. 
 In the meantime we have to thank Mr. Forbes for the trouble he has been 
 at to secure what must be considered a very valuable addition to our 
 specimens illustrating the osteology of the Indo-Malayan Archipelago. 
 
 [From the Journal of the Anthropological Institute for November, 
 1884. ] 
 
CRANIAL MEASUREMENTS 
 
 IN SUMATRA. 
 
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268 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 II.—LIST OF THE BIRDS OF SUMATRA. 
 
 “The first systematic account of the avi-fauna of Sumatra” (I quote 
 from the late Lord Tweeddale’s valuable paper, On a collection of birds 
 made in the Lampongs in 1876 by Mr. E. C. Buxton, in the Jbis for 1877, 
 page 283) “was written by Sir Stamford Raffles at Fort Marlborough, 
 near Bencoolen. .. Most of the birds enumerated were obtained in the 
 vicinity of Bencoolen itself, or during short trips into the interior of 
 the district of that name, during the years 1819 and 1820, partly by 
 Sir Stamford, assisted by Dr. Joseph Arnold, and partly by Messrs. 
 Diard and Duvaucel. These two gentlemen were French naturalists, 
 whose services Sir Stamford had secured while on a visit to Bengal. An 
 unfortunate misunderstanding that soon after their arrival in Sumatra 
 occurred between the Lieutenant-Governor and these two Frenchmen, 
 led, in about twelve months, to a cessation of their labours, and to their 
 departure from Bencoolen; and Sir Stamford was obliged to undertake 
 the description of the materials collected himself, or to allow the results 
 to be published in France. Hence his papers in the  ‘ Linnean Trans- 
 actions. The number of species therein catalogued, and more or less 
 described, is about 168. But some birds obtained in the Prince-of-Wales 
 Island and Singapore are included, and a few species appear to have 
 been introduced into the list through oversight, and on the strength of 
 caged birds. 
 
 “Tn 18380, Lady Raffles published a memoir of her late husband, to 
 which was appended a catalogue, by Vigors, of the zoological specimens 
 collected in Sumatra. ... About 194 species are enumerated. 
 
 “Since 1830, no attempt at a complete account of the birds of Sumatra has 
 been published ; but a good many species not contained in Vigors’ list have 
 been discovered and described, principally by the Dutch zoologists, more 
 particularly by Temminck and by Solomon Miller. Mr. A. R. Wallace, 
 during a stay of about three months in the year 1861, collected some birds 
 in the district of Palembang, penetrating a hundred and twenty miles 
 inland; but no separate account of his collection has appeared. 
 
 “ During a period of about five months, commencing the 30th of May 
 1876, Mr. Edmond C. Buxton travelled in the Lampong district ... He 
 started from Telok Betong, and went inland to Sukadana, a distance of 
 about eighty miles, and obtained in all 152 species, of which two were 
 undescribed.” 
 
 “From 1877-1879, the Dutch mid-Sumatra expedition, through the 
 Padang Highlands and along the Batang Hari river, added much to our 
 knowledge of the natural history of that region. 
 
 From June to September, 1878, Dr. Beccari, the well-known Italian 
 naturalist, visited and collected on the mountains of Padang, chiefly on 
 Mount Singalan (8900 feet). It contained representatives of many Indo- 
 Chinese genera which have not been found in the Lampongs, some of 
 which were, however, collected by the Author in the more Southern 
 residency of Palembang. 
 
 In August of the same year, Mr. Carl Bock, a Swedish naturalist, 
 collected over the same region on behalf of the late Lord T'weeddale, 
 obtaining 166 species. An account of this collection by Captain Wardlaw 
 Ramsay will be found in the Proceedings of the Zoological Society of 
 London, 1880, p. 18. 
 
 During 1880-1881, the Author made extensive collections in the Lam- 
 pong and Palembang Residencies, which have been carefully worked out 
 by Mr. F. Nicholson, and a list given in the Jbis for 1879, pp. 51 and 235, 
 

 
 IN SUMATRA. | 269 
 
 Astur trivirgatus, Temm. WLampongs. 
 
 soloensis. Lath. 
 
 Accipiter virgatus, Temm. Padang. 
 
 Neopus malayensis, Temm. 
 
 Spizaetus limnaetus, Horsf. 
 
 Spilornis pallidus, Wald. Lampongs. 
 
 bacha, Daud. Palembang. Lampongs. 
 
 Haliastur intermedius, Gurn. 
 
 Milvus govinda, Sykes. 
 
 Pernis ptilonorhynchus, Temm. 
 
 Baza sumatrensis, Lafr. Palembang. 
 
 Microhierax fringillarius, Drap. Lampongs, Palembang. 
 
 Falco peregrinus, Gm. 
 
 melanogenys, Gould. 
 
 Polioztus humilis, Mul. and Schl. Palembang. 
 
 ichthyaetus, Horsf. 
 
 Ketupa javanensis, Less. Lampongs. 
 
 Bubo orientalis, Horsf. 
 
 Scops lempiji, Horsf. Lampongs, 
 
 rufescens, Horsf. 
 
 Glaucidium sylvaticum, Bp. 
 
 Ninox scutulata, Rafi. Lampongs. 
 
 Syrnium myrtha, Bp. Palembang. 
 
 Rhopodytes erythrognathus, Hartl. Lampongs. 
 diardi, Less. Lampongs. 
 
 Centrococcyx eurycercus, Hay. Lampongs. Palembang. 
 javanensis, Dum. Palembang. 
 
 Zanclostomus javanicus, Horsf. Lampongs. Palembang. 
 
 Surniculus lugubris, L. Lampongs. 
 
 Chrysococcvyx xanthorhynchus, Horsf. 
 
 Hierococcyx fugax, Horsf. Lampongs. 
 
 Penthoceryx pravatus, Horsf. Lampongs. 
 
 Rhinortha chlorphea, Raff. 
 
 Chrysophlegma mystacalis, Salv. Padang. Palembang. 
 
 Xylolepus validus, Rafi. Lampongs. Palembang. 
 
 Thriponax javensis, Horsf. Lampongs. 
 
 Tiga rafflesi, Vigors. Lampongs. 
 
 javanensis, Ljung. 
 
 Iyngipicus auritus, Hyt. Lampongs. 
 
 Callolophus mentalis, Temm. Lampongs. 
 puniceus, Horsf. Lampongs. 
 malaccensis, Lath. 
 
 Micropternus badius, Raff. 
 
 Meiglyptes tristis, Horsf. Lampongs. 
 tukki, Horsf. Lampongs. 
 
 Dendrotypes analis, Horsf. Lampongs, 
 
 Henicurus sordidus, Hyt. Lampongs. 
 
 Loriculus galgulus, LZ. Palembung. 
 
 Palzornis longicauda, Bodd. Palembang. 
 
 Psittinus incertus, Shaw. Lampongs. 
 
 Orescius gouldi, Bp. Palembang. 
 
 Harpactes duvauceli, Temm. Lampongs. 
 
 kasumba, Raffles. Lampongs. 
 erythrocephalus, Gould. 
 
 Batrachostomus cornutus, Temm. Lampongs. 
 
 Caprimulgus pulchellus, Salv. Padang. 
 
 Lyncornis temmincki, Gould. Lampongs. 
 
 Merops sumatrana, Rafies. Lampongs. Palembang, 
 
 philippinus, LZ. Padang. 
 
 Nyctiornis amicta, Temm. Lampongs. Palembang. 
 
 Megaleema mystacophanos, Temm. Lampongs. 
 
 chrysopogon, Temm. Lampongs. 
 
270 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 Sasia abnormis, Temm. Lampongs. 
 Cypselus subfurcatus, Blyth. Padang. 
 Collocalia francica, Gm. Padang. 
 Macropteryx comatus, Temm. Lampongs. 
 longipennis, Raf. Lampongs. 
 
 Carcineutes pulchellus, Horsf. Lampongs. Palembang. 
 
 Halcyon pileata, Bodd. Lampongs. Palembang. 
 
 Sauropatis chloris, Bodd. Lampongs. 
 
 Pelargopsis fraseri, Sharpe. Lampongs. Palembang. 
 
 Alcedo euryzona, Shaw. Lampongs. 
 meninting, Horsf. Lampongs. 
 bengalensis, Gm. Lampongs. 
 
 Ceyx rufidorsa, Less. Lampongs. Palembang. 
 
 Megaleema versicolor, Raffles. Lampongs. 
 
 Xantholzema rosea, Dumont. Lampongs. 
 
 hemacephala, Mill. Lampongs. 
 duvaucelli, Less. Lampongs. 
 
 Caloramphus hayi, Gray. Padang. 
 
 Psilopogon pyrolophus, Mull. Palembang. 
 
 Hydrocissa albirostris, Shaw. Lampongs. 
 
 Anthracocerus malayanus, Raffles. Lampongs. 
 
 convexus, Temm. Lampongs. 
 
 Anorhinus galeritus, Temm. Lampongs. 
 
 Rhytidocerus undulatus, Shaw. Lampongs. 
 
 subrufficollis, Blyth. Palembang. 
 
 Buceros rhinoceros, L. Palembang. Lampongs 
 
 Corone macrorhyncha, Wagl. 
 enca, Horsf. 
 
 Dendrocitta occipitalis, Mill. 
 
 Crypsirhina varians, Lath. 
 
 Cissa chinensis, Bodd, var. minor, Cab. 
 
 Platysmurus leucopterus, Temm. 
 
 Oriolus maculatus, Vieill. Palembang. 
 xanthonotus, Horsf. Palembang 
 cruertus, Wag]. 
 
 Dicrurus annectens, Hodgs. Palembang. 
 
 sumatranus, W. Rams. 
 
 Chaptia malayensis, Blyth. 
 
 Buchanga cineracea, Horsf. 
 
 Bhringa resmifer, Temm. 
 
 Dissemurus paradiseus, L. 
 
 Irena criniger, Sharpe. Palembang. 
 
 Tephrodornis gularis, Ral. 
 
 Hemipus intermedius, Salv. Padang. 
 
 obscurus, Horsf. 
 
 Platylophus coronatus, Raff. Lampongs. 
 
 Cochoa beccarii, Salvad. 
 
 Artamides sumatrensis, Mull. 
 
 Graucalus melanocephalus, Salvad. Padang. 
 
 Pericrocotus xanthogaster, Rafl. Palembang. 
 
 montanus, Salvad. 
 cinereus, Lafr. 
 peregrinus, L. 
 
 Lalage terat, Bodd. 
 fimbriata, Temm., var. culminata, Hay. 
 
 Alseonax laticostris, Raf. 
 
 Poliomyias luteola, Pall. Palembang. 
 
 Muscicapula hyperythra, Blyth. 
 
 maculata. 
 
 Xanthopygia cyanomelena, Temm. 
 
 Hypothymis azurea, Bodd. 
 
 occipitalis, Viy. 
 
a 
 ‘ 
 a , 
 
 IN SUMATRA. 271 
 
 Rhipidura javanica, Sparrm. 
 perlata, Mull. 
 albicollis, Vie7ll. 
 salvadorii, Sharpe. 
 
 Terpsiphone affinis, Blyth. 
 incii, Gould. 
 
 Philentoma pyrrhopterum, Temm. 
 velatum, Temm. 
 
 Rhinomyias pestoralis, Salvad. 
 
 Culicicapa ceylonensis, Swains. Palembang. 
 
 Stoparola ruficrissa, Salvad. Padang. 
 
 concreta, Mull. 
 thalassinoides, Salvad. 
 
 Siphia elegans, Temm. Lampongs. Palembang. 
 
 sumatrensis, Sharpe. 
 
 Digenea solitaria, Mull. Padang. 
 
 Niltava grandis, Blyth. Padang. 
 
 Phylloscopus borealis, Blas. 
 
 viridipennis, Blyth. 
 
 Lusciniola fuliginiventris, Hodgs. 
 
 Geocichla sibirica, Pall. 
 
 Turdus cabanisi, Bp. 
 
 AXgithina viridissima, Bp. 
 
 tiphia, LD. var. viridis, Bp. 
 var. scapularis, Horsf. 
 
 Chloropsis viridis, Horsf. 
 zosterops, Vigors. 
 media, Bp. 
 icterocephala, Less. 
 cyanopogon, Temm. 
 venusta, Bp. 
 
 Hemixus cinereus, Blyth. 
 
 malaccensis, Blyth. 
 sumatranus, Wardl. Rams. 
 
 Tole olivacea, Blyth. 
 
 Pinarocichla euptilosa, Jard. & Selb. 
 
 Micropus melanocephalus, Gm. 
 
 Criniger pheocephalus, Hartl. 
 
 gutturalis, Bp. 
 
 Tricholestes criniger, Blyth. 
 
 Trachycomus ochrocephalus, Gm. 
 
 Pycnonotus bimaculatus, Horsf. 
 analis, Horsf. 
 plumosus, Blyth. 
 simplex, Less. 
 salvadorii, Sharpe. 
 leucogrammicus, Mill. 
 tygus, Bp. 
 
 Rubigula dispar, Horsf. 
 
 cyaniventris, Blyth. 
 squamata, Temm. 
 webberi, Hume. 
 
 Trena crinigera, Sharpe. 
 
 Pnoepyga pusilla, Hodgs. 
 
 Orthotomus atrigularis, Temm. Lampongs. 
 cineraceous, Blyth. Lampongs. Palembang. 
 ruficeps, Less. Lampongs. 
 sepium, Horsf. 
 
 Phyllergates cucullatus, Temm. Palembang. 
 
 Hydrocichla ruficapilla, Temm. Lampongs. 
 frontalis, Blyth. Lampongs. 
 velatus, Temm. Palembang. 
 
272 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 Eupetes macrocercus, Temm. 
 
 Sibia simillima, Salvad. Palembang. 
 
 Garrulax bicolor, Hartl. Palembang. 
 
 palliatus, Temm. Palembang. Padang. 
 Melanocichla lugubris, Mill. Padang. 
 Rhinocichla mitrata, S. Mill. Lampongs. Palembang. 
 Stachyris larvata, Bp. Palembang. 
 poliocephala, Temm. Palembang, 
 nigricollis, Temm. 
 thoracica, T’emm. 
 maculata, T’emm. 
 
 Turdinus magnirostris, Moore. 
 loricatus, Mull. Padang. 
 rufipectus, Salv. Padang. — 
 
 Erythrozichla bicolor, Less. Palembang. 
 
 Drymocataphus nigricapitatus, Eyton. Lampongs. 
 
 Trichostoma rostratum, Blyth. 
 
 Myiophoneus dicrorhynchus, Salvad. Palembang. Padang. 
 melanurus, Salvad. Lampongs. Palembang. Padang. 
 castaneus, Wardl. Rams, Padang. 
 
 Brachypteryx buxtoni, Tweed. Lampongs. 
 flaviventris, Salvad. Padang. 
 umbratilis, Strickl, Palembang, 
 saturatus, Salvad. Palembang. 
 
 Copsychus musicus, Rafi. Lampongs. 
 
 Cittocincla tricolor, Viedll, var. suavis Sel. Lampongs. 
 
 Suya albigularis, Hume. Palembang, 
 
 Prinia familiaris, Horsf. Lampongs. 
 
 Burnesia flaviventris, Deless. ‘—Lampongs. Padang. 
 
 Malacopterum magnum, Hyt. Palembang. Lampongs. 
 cinereum, Hyt. Palembang. 
 lepidocephalum, Gir. 
 affine, Blyth. Palembang. 
 
 Mixornis gularis, Rufi. Palembang. 
 
 erythroptera, Blyth. Lampongs. Palembang. 
 
 Macronus ptilosus, Jard. & Selb. Lampongs. Palembang. 
 
 Anuropsis malaccensis, Hartl, Palembang. 
 
 Turdinulus murinus, Blyth. 
 
 Rimator albostriatus, Salvad. 
 
 Stachyridopsis assimilis, Wald. Palembang. 
 
 Mesia laurine, Salvad. Padang. 
 
 Parus sultaneus, Hodgs. 
 
 cinereus, Bonn. & Vieill. 
 
 Ptererythrius cralatus, Tickell, var. cameranoi, Salvad. Padang. 
 
 Pachycephala grisola, Blyth. 
 bruneicauda, Salvad. 
 
 Lanius tigrinus, Drapiez. Palembang. 
 
 bentet, Horsf. Padang. 
 
 Sitta frontalis, Hors/. 
 
 Chalcostetha insignis, Temm. 
 
 /Xthopyga temmincki, Miill. 
 
 siparaja, Raff. 
 
 Cinnyris hasselti, Temm. Bencoolen. Palembang. 
 
 pectoralis, Horsf. Palembang. 
 
 Arachnothera crassirostris, Reich. 
 longirostris, Lath. Palembang. 
 affinis, Horsf. Palembang. 
 chrysogenys, Temm. Bencoolen. 
 flaviventris, Gadow. 
 
 Anthothreptes hypogrammica, Miill, 
 simplex, Mill. 
 phenicotis, Temm. Palembang. 
 
= 
 
 IN SUMATRA. 273 
 
 Anthothreptes malaccensis, Scop. Palembang. Bencoolen. 
 
 Zosterops aureiventer, Hwme. Lampongs. 
 chlorates, Hartl, Palembang. 
 atricapilla, Salvad. Padang. 
 flava, Horsf. 
 fallax, Sharpe. 
 frigida, Mill. 
 
 Dicsum flammeum, Sparm. Lampongs. 
 olivaceum, Wald. Lampongs. 
 trigonostigma, Scop. Lampongs. 
 
 Pitta boschii, Mull. & Schl. Lampongs. 
 
 muelleri, Horsf. Lampongs. 
 venusta, Mill. Palembang. 
 
 Calobates melanope, Pallas. Lampongs. 
 
 Budytes viridis, Gm. Lampongs, 
 
 Anthus rufulus, V. 
 
 Hirundo javanica, Sparm. 
 
 Cymborhynchus macrorhynchus, Gm. Lampongs. 
 
 Calyptomena viridis, Rafies. Lampongs. 
 
 Eurlyzmus ochromelas, Raf. 
 
 javanicus, Horsf. 
 
 Corydon sumatranus, Rafiles. Lampongs. 
 
 Calornis chalybea, Horsf. Lampongs. 
 
 Sturnopaster contra, Z. Lampongs. 
 
 Gracula javanensis, Osb. Lampongs. 
 
 Artamus leucogaster, Val. Lampongs, 
 
 Analcipus cruentus, Wagl. Padang. 
 
 Padda orizivora, L. Lampongs. 
 
 Munia maja, Z. Lampongs. 
 
 punctularia, Z. Palembang. 
 leucogastroides, Moore. Lampongs. 
 atricapilla, V. Palembang. 
 
 Ploceus maculatus, Mull. Lampongs. 
 
 Erythrura prasina, Sparm. Lampongs. 
 
 Treron nipalensis, Hodgs. Lampongs. 
 
 Butreron capellei, Temm. Lampongs. 
 
 Sphenocercus oxyurus, Reinw. 
 
 Osmotreron vernans, Z. Lampongs. Padang. 
 
 olax, Temm. Lampongs. 
 
 Spilopelia tigrina, Temm. Lampongs,. 
 
 Geopelia striata, L. Lampongs. 
 
 Chalcophaps indica, Z. Lampongs. 
 
 Carpophaga badia, Rafi. Lampongs. 
 
 eenea, Z. Lampongs. Palembang. Padang. 
 
 Macropygia leptogrammica, Temm. 
 
 Argusianus argus, 2. Lampongs. Palembang. 
 
 Polyplectron chaleurum, 7’. Palembang. 
 
 Euplocomus vieilloti, Gray. Padang. 
 
 Acomus inornatus, Salvad. Padang. 
 
 Gallus ferrugineus, Gm. Palembang. 
 
 Rhizothera longirostris, Temm. 
 
 Arborophila personata, Horsf. Palembang. 
 
 Peloperdix rubrirostris, Salvad. Padang. 
 
 Excalfactoria chinensis, Z. Palembang. 
 
 Rollulus rouloul, Scop. Lampongs. Palembang. 
 
 Caloperdix oculea, Temm. Palembang. 
 
 Turnix pugnax, Temm. Padang. 
 
 Charadrius fulvus, Gm. Lampongs. 
 
 fXgialitis geoffroyi, Wagl. Lampongs. 
 
 Glareola orientalis, Leach. Lampongs. 
 
 Ardea purpurea, DL, 
 
 Herodias intermedia, Hasselt. Palembang. 
 
274 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Demigretta sacra, Gm. Lampongs. 
 Bubulcus coromandus, Bodd. Palembang. Padang. 
 Ardetta cinnamomea, Gm. Padang. 
 Butorides javanica, Horsf. Paiembang. 
 Leptoptilus javanicus, Horsf. Palembang. 
 Tantalus lacteus, Temm. Palembang. 
 Totanus glareola, L. Lampongs. 
 Tringoides hypoleucus, L. Lampongs., 
 Scolopax rusticola, L. 
 Rhynchea capensis, Z. Padang. Palembang, 
 Hypotenidia striata, Z. Palembang. Padang. 
 Erythra pheenicura, Forst. Lampongs. 
 Dendrocygna arcuata, Horsf. 
 Sterna media, Horsf. 
 
 bergii, Licht. 
 
 III.—ADDITIONS TO THE INSECT FAUNA OF SUMATRA. 
 Descriptions of LEPIDOTERA discovered by the Author in Sumatra. 
 
 The descriptions of species under Mr. Smith’s or Mr. Butler’s name, have 
 been kindly prepared by them for me. 
 
 NYMPHALID A. 
 
 Trepsichrois van-deventert, mihi, sp. nov.—Intermediate between T. 
 mulciber of Borneo and 7. linnei; differs from the former in the slightly 
 larger spots on fore-wings of male, and in the well-defined whiter mark- 
 ings in the female—in 7’. mulciber they are brownish; from 7. linnez it 
 differs in its smaller size, less angulated fore-wings, ” smaller spots on 
 these wings in both sexes and much narrower streaks on hind-wings of 
 female; it occurs in Sumatra, Malacca, and Cachar (Assam). Lampongs, 
 No. 99. This species is named in honour of Mr. Justice Van Deventer. 
 of the Dutch-Indian Bench. 
 
 Kallima spiridiva, Smith, sp. nov—Upper side: anterior wing, uniform 
 dark brown, almost black, ‘crossed from the centre of the costa to the 
 inner angle by a broad band of pale blue, in which between the first and 
 
 second median nervures is a small vitreous spot ; a small white spot near 
 
 the apex, which is not falcate, as in paralecta and other species of this 
 genus. Posterior wings with an irregular, almost obsolete, sub-marginal 
 black line. Both wings with a slight purple gloss. Under side: with 
 markings and spots resembling paralecta, but the colouring is subject to 
 variation, as of the two examples I have, one is rich brown, and the 
 other olive- -green. Expansion, 3} inches. This species is about the same 
 size as K, albofasciata, but is distinct from it as well as from paralecta. 
 Sumatra. Type in Mus. H. G. Smith, Esq. 
 
 Cethosia caroline, mihi, sp. nov. —Differs from the C. menalis in haying 
 the transverse black lines more uniform in width, and the white patch 
 at centre of external area of fore-wings of little more than half the width; 
 the sub-apical white spots are also smaller, and the orange patch at anal 
 angle of hind-wings is considerably larger. Sumatra. Hoodjoong, 
 Palembang Residency. No. 215. I have named this species in recog- 
 nition of the kindness of my sister-in-law, Miss C. Keith, who aided me 
 greatly in the preparation of my MS. for the printers. 
 
 Cyrestes irmx, mihi, sp. nov.—Intermediate between C. methypsea and 
 
IN SUMATRA. WS 
 
 C. penthesilia ; fore-wings with the markings of the latter species, hind- 
 wings most like methypsea, but with a broader external black margin; 
 under side similar to that species, but with the white marginal line more 
 deeply scalloped and better marked, and the pale markings generally 
 whiter. Sumatra. Palembang Residency. No. 418. Named in honour 
 of the wife and elder daughter of Surgeon Julius Machik, of the Dutch- 
 Indian army. ; 
 
 PAPILIONID A. 
 
 - Ivias flavipennis, Smith, sp. nov.—Upper side: both wings orange- 
 yellow; from the base, extended over about two-thirds of the wings, 
 shaded with gray, the nervures and remainder of the wings dark brown. 
 Under side: both wings yellow, mottled with brown; anterior wing, 
 with a black spot at the end of the cell, and an irregular sub-marginal 
 row of brown spots confluent, extending from the costa to the inner 
 angle; posterior wing with a sub-marginal row of brown spots com- 
 mencing on the costa between the nervures and extending to the third 
 median nervule, and a black spot on the first disco-cellular nervule. 
 Expansion, 2} inches, Hab., Mount Dempo, 4000 feet. T'ype in Mus. 
 H. G. Smith, Esq. i 
 
 Amnosia eudamia 2 , Smith, sp. nov.—Upper side: both wings brown ; 
 anterior wings crossed from the centre of the costa to the inner angle by 
 a broad brownish-white band, beyond the band the wings are darker 
 brown; posterior wings, with a sub-marginal row of five spots (smaller 
 than in decora £ ), outside of which are two irregular dark brown lines, 
 and inside one dark line. Under side: both wings lighter brown than on 
 the upper side, with similar markings to decora, of which it may be a 
 variety, but it differs from the female decora in the lighter shade of the 
 brown on the upper side of the wings, in the colour of the band on the 
 anterior wings, in the size of the spots on the posterior wings, and on the 
 under side in the absence of the three spots within the cell of the posterior 
 wing, and of the first of the four sub-apical spots on the anterior wing of 
 decora, and, in addition, it is somewhat larger. Expansion, 3+ inches 
 Hab., Sumatra. Type in Mus. H. G. Smith, Esq. 
 
 Papilio forbesi, Smith, Ento. Month, Mag. p. 234 (1882-83).—Upper 
 side: dark brown, almost black, the margins between the nervures with 
 lunular white spots, very narrow on anterior wing, much broader on 
 posterior wing, which is without tails; anterior wings with longitudinal 
 rays on each side of the nervures of light brown, extending from the 
 middle to the exterior margin; posterior wing with a row of three 
 brownish-gray lunular spots between the median nervules, and a spot 
 at the anal angle, above which is a row of three small faintly-marked 
 spots of same colour. Under side: anterior wings rayed as above, but 
 paler; posterior wing with a longitudinal red spot at the base, divided 
 by the precostal nervure, which is black, and a small red spot below the 
 costal nervure; a broad band of ochreous yellow, with a row of black spots 
 in the middle, extending across the wing between the median nervules, 
 and a small spot of ochreous yellow beyond; a black spot at the top of 
 the band next the anal angle, three blue spots near the exterior margin, 
 from the costal nervure to the median nervule. Expansion, 4 inches. 
 Hab. Banding Agong, Sumatra. This species belongs to the Memnon 
 group, in which, however, there is nothing which resembles it. 'I'ype in 
 Mus. H. G, Smith, Esq. 
 
 Papilio albolineatus, mihi, sp. nov.—Allied to P. suturnus, Guér. 
 (nephelus, De Haan); differs from that species in the greater width of 
 
 2 
 
276 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS . 
 
 the sub-apical creamy-white band on the fore-wing (the five spots of 
 which it is formed being considerably longer), in having an additional 
 spot of the same colour at the apex of the cell, and two small, pale 
 ochreous spots on the hind margin. The hind wings have the discal 
 creamy-white patch straight on its inner edge, and continued to the 
 abdominal margin by two additional pale ochreous spots; the marginal 
 spots of both wings are also more strongly marked. The under side 
 differs in having the white markings generally more extended, and the 
 additional spot in the cell of the fore-wings as on the upper side. Hab. 
 Borneo. In col. Brit. Museum. 
 
 In comparing an example of Papilio saturnus taken in Sumatra with | 
 the specimens in the British Museum, I found this nearly-related species 
 unnamed in the collection, which the authorities have kindly permitted 
 me to describe here. 
 
 Papilio itam-puti, Butler, sp. nov.—Allied to P. alcibiades, but the 
 black markings on the primaries much broader, the fourth band formin 
 an acute triangle; the external black border, occupying nearly a thir 
 of the wing not completely divided by the green band (which is narrower 
 than in P. alcibiades), its inner edge sub-sigmoidal; this border terminates 
 just below the first median branches, not at the external angle as in PR. 
 alcibiades ; the secondaries have slightly longer tails, and the externo- 
 anal area is greenish-gray, with black outer margin, and two black bars 
 near the extremity of the median interspaces; on the under surface, in 
 addition to the differences noted above, the outer half of the discoidal cell 
 of the primaries is ochre-yellow, and the external half of the secondaries 
 is uniformly instead of partially ochreous. Expanse of wings, 77 millim. 
 Lampongs. In col. Brit. Musuem. 
 
 Description of a new LONGICORN COLEOPTERON. 
 By CHARLES O. WATERHOUSE, F.Z.S. 
 LAMIIDE. 
 
 Megacriodes forbesii. 
 
 From the Annals and Magazine of Natural History for May, 1881, and 
 figured in Janson’s Aids to the Identification of Insects. 
 
 Niger, nitidus, pube subtilissima cinerea indutus; thoracis disco macula oculata 
 crocea ornato; elytris basi et sub humeros crebre granulosis, plagis sex albis 
 ornatis, Long. 22 lin. 
 
 Near to M. Saundersii, Pascoe (Trans. Ent. Soc. 3rd ser. iii. p. 272, 1866 ) ; 
 but, judging from the figure (pl, xii. fig. 1), it is a more robust species. 
 It differs chiefly in having the base of the elytra and all the humeral 
 region thickly studded with shining granules. The scutellum is yellow. 
 Each elytron has three patches of white pubescence (which were doubt- 
 less yellow when the insect was alive)—the first and second placed as in 
 M. Saundersii, but very irregular in form ; the third very elongate, and as 
 if formed of the two apical spots of NV. Saundersii. The underside is 
 clothed with yellowish-grey pile, with a broad stripe along the side from 
 behind the eye to the apical segment of the abdomen; this stripeis part 
 sella and part white; it was probably yellow when the specimen was 
 alive. 
 
 Hab. Lampongs, Sumatra (H. O. Forbes). Brit. Museum Coll. 
 
IN SUMATRA. Pre 
 
 New Ruyncnuota. By W. L. Distant, F.L.S. 
 (From the Ento. Month. Mag, xix. pp. 156-160.) 
 
 The following descriptions refer to species which I have received 
 during the last few years in collections made by Mr. Forbes. Our 
 present information as to the Rhynchota of Sumatra is greatly due to 
 Snellen van Vollenhoven, whose studies, however, did not extend to the 
 Coreidzx of this island; to Ellenrieder, who alone treated of the Rentato- 
 mide ; to various descriptions by the late Dr. Stal; and the same, in a 
 much less satisfactory sense, of the late Mr. Walker. It will be thus seen 
 that at present our catalogues and collections of Sumatran Rhynchota are 
 of the most meagre and superficial character though we may reasonably 
 hope that this comparative ignorance will soon be greatly modified by the 
 publication of the natural history section of the late Dutch Expedition 
 into Central Sumatra. [This work has now been completed, and contains 
 descriptions of many species new to science. H.O. F.] 
 
 HEMIPTERA-HETEROPTERA. 
 
 PENTATOMIDZ. 
 
 Canthecona cognata, n. sp.,* allied to C. javanica.—Ent. M. Mag., 
 
 l5t, 
 Neosalica n. gen., allied to Piezosternwm. Loc. cit. p. 157. 
 
 »  forbesi,n. sp. Loc. cit. p. 157. 
 PyYRRHOCORIDZ. 
 Lohita grandis, Gray, var. Sumatrana. Loc. cit. 158. 
 
 REDUVIID. 
 
 Panthous cocalus, n. sp. allied to P. dexdalus, Stal, and P. nigriceps, 
 Reut. Loc. cit. p. 158. 
 Panthous talus, n. sp., allied to P. icarus, Stal. Loc. cit. p. 159. 
 
 HEMIPTERA-HOMOPTERA. 
 
 CEROOPID. 
 Cosmoscarta juno, n. sp., allied to C. viridans, Guér. Loc. cit. p. 160. 
 
 * The descriptions of these species are given in full at the given pages of the 
 work cited. H.O.F. 
 
278 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 IVY. ADDITIONS TO THE FLORA OF SUMATRA. 
 Description of a new Vacorntum. By WILLIAM Fawcett, B.Sc., F.L.S. 
 Vaccinium Forbesii (sp. nov.). Herb. Forbes. in Mus. Brit., No. 2371. 
 
 Frutex aut arbor ramulis racemis calycibusque pubescentibus, foliis 
 brevi-petiolatis ellipticis utrinque obtusis 18 mm. longis racemis margini- 
 bus recurvis integris coriaceis glabris subtus rufis imbricatis, 38 mm. 
 longis terminalibus, floribus breve-pedicellatis, in axillis bracteorum 
 
 
 
 VACOINIUM FORBESII. 
 
 foliis paullo minorum, calyce 8 mm. longo lobis tubi longitudine 
 obtusis, corolla 5-7 mm. longa ovoido-tubulari extus vix pubescente aut 
 glabra intus pubescente rubra aut coccinea marginibus albis (H. O. F.), 
 filamentis staminum pilosis, loculis antberarum ellipticis minutissimis 
 spinulis tectis dorso exaristatis in tubulos breves rectos apice apertos 
 
IN SUMATRA. 279 
 
 
 
 productis; disco epigyno pubescente extrorsum sinuato; bacca 5 mm. 
 longa globoso pubescente purpureo-nigra. 
 
 This species differs from V. buawifolium especially in the bracts being 
 like the leaves and not much smaller, and in the anthers being without 
 spurs. This beautiful species was collected on Mount Dempo, from 
 7500-10,500 feet. In size it varied from a tree four feet in circumference 
 to a low shrub. 
 
 [This drawing has been done for me by Mr. R. Morgan, from a camera 
 drawing of the author’s made from the living plant. H. 0. F.] 
 
 Description of a new species of CYRTANDREE. Dy H, O, ForBus. 
 [Extracted from the Linnean Society’s Journal—Botany, vol. xix. p. 297.] 
 
 Bora Trevsi, Forbes.—Suffruticosa, caule usque ad 3—4 pedes alto, 
 pallide cinnamomeo-tomentoso: foliis oppositis, breviter petiolatis, 
 elongato-lanceolatis, supra glabratis, subtus cinnamomeo-tomentosis ; 
 pedunculis multifloris, in paniculam terminalem abeuntibus; corolla in 
 diam. 0°20-0'25 metr. purpurascenti-cerulea. 
 
 Folia acuminata, serrulata, undulata; petioli connati, basi dilatati, 
 caulem amplectentes. Bractez inferiores, foliis similes, sed minores. 
 Calyx 5-partitus; laciniis lanceolatis, acuminatis, tomentosis. Corolla 
 oblique campanulata, tubus calyce brevior; limbus bilabiatus, lobis 
 obovato-rotundatis. Stamina 2 perfecta, corolla multo breviora, 2-3 
 rudimentaria; filamenta arcuata; anthere magne, cordato-oblonge, 
 reniformes, aurantiace, apicibus coherentes, loculis subrectis confluenti- 
 bus. Capsula ovoideo-cylindrica, bivalvis, valvis etiam in capsula 
 perjuveni spiraliter dextrorsum tortis, loculicide dehiscens; placentee 
 membranacee, 2-fidee, revolute, semina minuta integentes. 
 
 Sumatra, in monte calcareo Karangnata, prope Napal Litjin, in prov- 
 incia Palembang, alt. 1000 ped. 
 
 I found this singularly beautiful and graceful plant in full flower in 
 November, 1881, first near the village of Napal Litjin, 580 feet above the 
 sea; but in profusion on the large disrupted calcareous blocks near the 
 summit of the peak of Karangnata, in company with magnificent spike- 
 bearing Celogynes and pink-fruited Melastomacex. JI am not satisfied 
 that BoeaTreubii may not form a new genus; it differs from Boea in its 
 large size and entire stigma. The specific name is give in honour of Dr. 
 Treub, Director of the Botanic Gardens, Buitenzorg. 
 

 
Ae lee LV 
 
 
 
 IN THE MOLUCCAS AND IN TIMOR-LAUT. 
 

 
CHAPTER I. 
 FROM JAVA TO AMBOINA. 
 
 Sojourn in Buitenzorg, Java—Leave for Amboina accompanied by my wife— 
 Friends on board—Call at Samarang and Sourabaya in Java—Macassar in 
 Celebes—Bima in Sumbawa—Larantuka in Flores—Cupang and Dilly in 
 ‘limor—Banda, the island of nutmeg gardens, 
 
 ARRIVING in Batavia from Sumatra on the 27th of December, 
 1881, I was engaged for many weeks in botanical investigations 
 in the Laboratory of the Buitenzorg Botanical Gardens, in 
 packing up my very large Herbarium, and in making the 
 necessary arrangements for my expedition to Timor-laut. 
 
 At the end of March, the future companion of my travels 
 arrived from Europe, to whom I was married on the 5th of 
 April, and henceforth the record of those wanderings must 
 pass from the singular to the plural pronoun, while the ob- 
 servations hereunder recorded are those sometimes of the 
 one, sometimes of the other of us. 
 
 On the 15th of the month we left Batavia en route for 
 Timor-laut wa Amboina. On board the steamer there was a 
 large complement of passengers, among whom was Major Van 
 der Weide, the directing medical officer of the Moluccas, and 
 a most charming Portuguese family, that of Major da Frane¢a, 
 who was on his way to assume the Governorship of their 
 possessions in Kast-Timor. 
 
 The steamers of the Netherlands India Company circum- 
 navigate the Archipelago every month; and as they often lie 
 to as long as a couple of days at.the more important islands 
 along its southern belt, we had therefore the opportunity of 
 forming a slight acquaintance with many interesting places 
 and races of men. After a call at the two Javan ports of 
 Samarang and Sourabaya, we anchored for several days in 
 
284 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 Macassar, the greatest disseminator in these seas of the pro- 
 ducts of Western civilisation to the barbarous East. Thence, 
 running a day and night’s sail southward to the island of 
 Sumbawa, we touched for a few hours at Bima. The rest of 
 that day and till next afternoon we coasted along the shores 
 of the island of Flores, the Land of Flowers of the early 
 Portuguese navigators, but a heavy mist concealed from our 
 view its wooded features. | 
 
 Anchoring at Larantuka at its eastern point, I accompanied 
 the captain on shore under a dense rain, and spent an hour 
 or two at a lone monastery there, where some eight or nine 
 priests were living, who hospitably proffered us the best of 
 their cellar. The buildings and grounds were enclosed and 
 strongly fenced in by thick hedges of the impenetrable bam- 
 boo-durie. With a few people from Java and the surrounding 
 islands they were spending their lives in very much like 
 useless solitude. The natives were anything but friendly, — 
 and lived far in the mountains; but every now and then, the 
 priests told me, they made a raid on their establishment, 
 shooting a few of their people in the dark and then running 
 away. So that it seemed to me that both the priests and 
 the nuns (who occupied an adjacent nunnery) might have 
 established themselves in a region affording more scope to 
 their self-denying labours. The natives I saw were mop- 
 haired, with sooty black skins; they wore triton-shell arm- 
 lets, squeezed on just below the shoulder so tight that I was 
 astonished that strangulation of the limb was not the result. 
 A pink Periwinkle (Vinca rosea), and the lovely dark blue 
 climbing Clitorea ternatensis grew abundantly near the shore 
 and in the gardens of the priests. 
 
 From Larantuka passing southward through the Flores 
 straits we made for Cupang in the west of Timor—a bright 
 clean, neatly laid-out town at the base of a range of abrupt 
 hills, with a considerable Dutch population living in sub- 
 stantial houses. On going ashore we were delighted to find 
 there an Englishman, Mr. Drysdale, by whom we were most 
 hospitably entertained during the day. ‘The natives, tall 
 well-made fellows with their hair done up in a large frizzly 
 mop, strolled lazily about the streets looking on unconcernedly 
 at the tide of civilisation and the eager bustle of trade set 
 
IN THE MOLUCCAS. 285 
 
 flowing by the arrival of our steamer, as if it was a matter 
 in which they had absolutely no interest or concern. They 
 wore little clothing beyond a loin-cloth, and a fringed plaid 
 —that simplest and most primitive garb of man—about their 
 shoulders; a little bag, heavily ornamented with gold and 
 beads, suspended in front by a string round the hips, con- 
 tained their betel nut and siri leaves, and tastefully carved 
 bamboo tubes full of tobacco. A Borassus palm leaf for an 
 umbrella completed their costume and accoutrements, except 
 their hats, which, made out of the 
 pure white spathe of the Borassus 
 palm, really exhibit artistic taste 
 of a very high order. Somewhat 
 of the shape of the “ Devonshire 
 Hat,” somuch worn a few years ago, 
 but narrower in proportion, they 
 were elaborately ornamented with a 
 mass of flowers and plumes really 
 wonderfully modelled out of little 
 chips of the spathe. Held in the 
 hand they were singularly graceful 
 ornaments; but atop of the natives’ 
 curly mops they had rather a gro- 
 tesque appearance. The indigenes 
 rarely came down from their own mountain homes to the 
 town, so that very few of the natives I saw crowding the streets 
 of Cupang were true Timorese, Mr. Drysdale told me; most 
 of them were men from the little island of Solor, and are the 
 servants and coolies of the place. 
 
 Trade is carried on by barter, the most prized article of 
 exchange being a species of bead, by no means plentiful, called 
 by them lakkai, of an ochreous red colour, evidently some sort of 
 soft stone. Whence these beads come is quite unknown, and 
 no imitation yet made in Birmingham or elsewhere has been 
 sufficiently exact to deceive the native to give the price of the 
 true article for its counterfeit—a small string of eight or nine 
 inches long costing over £12. 
 
 Another night’s sail brought us to Dilly, the capital of the 
 Portuguese territory in the east half of the island. Here we 
 lost our genial companions, the Governor and his family, who 
 
 
 
 SOLOR ORNAMENTATION. 
 
286 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 landed under a salute from the fort, and with a great show 
 of ceremony. Landing later in the day, we perambulated the 
 town, which wanted much before it could be termed neat or 
 clean or other than dilapidated, but when we afterwards 
 came to know how terribly insalubrious it is, we were sur- 
 prised that the incessant fever and languor which made life on 
 the lowlands an absolute burden left a particle of energy in 
 anybody to care for anything. ‘The supreme evil of Dilly is 
 its having been built on a low morass, when it might have 
 stood far more salubriously on the easily accessible slopes 
 close behind it. Before leaving we received from the Governor 
 a most cordial invitation to visit them again, and the generous 
 offer of what assistance I might want, should I have a mind 
 to travel in the interior of the island. 
 
 A sail of two nights and a day brought us to Banda. 
 Coming on deck, before breakfast, we found ourselves slowly 
 steaming in through a narrow winding entrance between 
 thickly foliaged cliffs, which seemed, after giving us passage, 
 to glide together and enclose us within a deep blue inland lake 
 without entrance or exit. It was the most lovely spot we had 
 yet visited. Fronting us as the steamer warped itself to the 
 jetty, lay the town as a cluster of white houses, built along 
 the low, narrow foreshore, overshadowed on all sides by steep 
 heights densely wooded with bright green vegetation; from 
 an elevated plateau, a battlemented fort overlooked us, the 
 scarlet of its Dutch ensign floating in the wind with a 
 bright gleam of colour; behind us, across the harbour, rose, 
 from the water’s bayleted edge, the high symmetrical islet 
 cone of the Gunung Api, its base and flanks green with trees, 
 amid whose shade a white dwelling here and there peeped 
 out, peacefully reposing, careless of the internal fires that 
 blistered the smouldering summit of the mountain. 
 
 We walked through the town and viewed at Bin Saleh’s 
 many native-made Paradise and thousands of other gay New 
 Guinea birds’ skins, ready for dispatch to the Paris markets. 
 Two skins of the Seleucides alba and Diphyllodes respublica 
 were all that were worth purchasing. We were charmed with 
 its clean aspect, its green parks with gravelled walks, and 
 pretty dwellings. Wandering up the heights by a path over- 
 grown with lycopods and ferns, we presently found ourselves 
 
IN THE MOLUCCAS. 287 
 
 
 
 under a delightfully shady canopy. of tall Kanary trees, 
 and among the groves of Nutmeg of which Banda is the 
 famous garden. Quite a picturesque object in the wood was 
 a boy busy gathering the fruit into a neat creel, with a 
 jointed pole like a fishing-rod, nipping off the stalk of the 
 ripe nuts by two claw-like prongs with which the tip of his 
 rod was armed, when they dropped into a little basket-like 
 cage worked to the stem a few inches below. He came 
 and showed us his basketful of beautiful - fruit 
 —in its pale yellow shell, half of which is left 
 on, in which was nestling the dark brown nut 
 embroidered with its deep lake mace. This fruit 
 is the favourite food of the large pigeons (Carpo- 
 phaga conecinna) whose low booming note was one 
 of the few bird sounds that broke the stillness of 
 the woods. I shot, however, a lovely green dove 
 (Ptilopus diadematus) and a little White-eye (Zos- 
 terops chloris), and noticed traces of the Cassowaries 
 that have been introduced from New Guinea, which 
 are said to be now breeding there. 
 
 Farther on we came on one of the plantation- 
 houses, where a large number of men and women 
 were peeling the mace, drying it in the sun, and 
 packing both in boxes. ‘These cases are all made 
 of one size, carefully finished and caulked, and 
 form as delightful an article of cargo as could | 
 be wished. None but a trade de luxe would befit ’ panws con. 
 an island so ornate and so wonderfully situated as EN ae 
 Banda. Its produce, grown in beautiful bowers, is 
 gathered up round its umbrageous bayleted shores in long 
 gaudily-painted praus, which are constantly darting about 
 propelled by lithe rowers, who, as is their custom, synchron- 
 ously plunge and flash out their paddles in the sun to a 
 buoyant merry tune, and in whose preparation or shipment 
 not one hand-soiling operation is required ; its atmosphere is 
 charged with aromatic exhalations; its wharfs and streets are 
 the picture of tidiness, and the very water that laps its coral 
 shores is brighter and purer than almost anywhere else in the 
 world. 
 
 A night’s slow steaming brought us to Amboina. 
 
 
 
288 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER IT. 
 AMBOINA. 
 
 Amboina — Reception by Mr. Resident Riedel — Delay — Visit interior of 
 Amboina—Paso—Move to Wai—The people there—The flora and fauna— 
 Return to Amboina. 
 
 On landing in Amboina, I sent my letters of introduction 
 from the Government to Mr. Resident Riedel, and later in the 
 day we reported our arrival in person at his house. My letters 
 recommended me officially to him for whatever information 
 he could give us in regard to Timor-laut; and in that liberal 
 spirit in which all travellers in the Archipelago are treated 
 by the Dutch Government, I had been granted the privilege 
 also of using the voyages thither of the Government’s marine 
 gunboat, which the authorities in Batavia expected would be 
 leaving Amboina for the Tenimber Islands shortly after our 
 arrival there. To our surprise, Mr. Riedel’s bearing towards 
 us was not at all friendly, and beyond the simple item that 
 the Tagal had just returned thence, we obtained no further 
 information as to its movements or intelligence from him about 
 Timor-laut. 
 
 Taking leave of the Resident very disappointed, as I had 
 relied much on the information that could have been given us, 
 we set about searching for some shelter for the night. Know- 
 ing no one in a town where there is neither hotel nor “ Rooms 
 to be let” for chance travellers, we returned at sundown 
 unsuccessful on board the steamer which fortunately had not 
 sailed. Resuming our search next morning, we happily at 
 nightfall met with the Captain of the Chinese, who, with the 
 utmost kindness, placed a newly-built house of his at our 
 disposal, and made it habitable for us. 
 
 Our first impressions of Amboina, therefore, were by no 
 
IN THE MOLUCCAS. 289 
 
 means prepossessing; they would have been brighter could 
 we have foreseen that, ere we left it, we were to make many 
 delightful friends, whose kindness and hospitality would fix it 
 in our remembrance as one of the most pleasant of towns to 
 reside in. 
 
 Our only means now of reaching the Tenimber Islands was 
 by the Netherlands tri-monthly steamer, due on the 18th of 
 June, which had lately begun to run to New Guinea, touching 
 at Serah and Larat, both islets of the Timor-laut group, where 
 the Government had just then placed Postholders (civil offi- 
 cials of subordinate rank) charged with the initiatory work of 
 these new colonies. 
 
 To a naturalist with a spare week or two at his disposal, 
 few islands can offer so acceptable a retreat as Amboina. To 
 spend the time as profitably as possible, therefore, we decided 
 to move a little distance into the interior. 
 
 May 14th. Breathless Sunday morning. Started for Paso, 
 a little village situated at the top of the Bay of Amboina, on 
 the narrow isthmus—only a few hundred yards broad—that 
 connects the southern or Leitimor with the northern (called 
 Hitu) portion of the island. It was a disappointment to us 
 that a ripple on the water quite prevented our getting a glimpse 
 of those fairy Gardens of the Sea to be seen here, which have 
 been so graphically described by Mr. Wallace. Jutting out from 
 the land along the shores of the bay were the curious Servos or 
 native fish-maises, in which a double line of close bamboo pali- 
 sades, reaching above the level of the water, enclosed a lane, 
 which extended shorewards from its seaward entrance a little 
 way beyond low-water mark, and doubling back terminated in 
 deep water in a circular well, where the fish that had entered 
 during high tide, and whose escape had been prevented by the 
 ebb, were enclosed and captured from a trap door in a little 
 platform erected over it. 
 
 As we skirted along the shore, the sound of sacred music 
 floated out to us over the water from one of the little villages 
 in solemn and impressive cadence. We landed for a little 
 to look at the church whence it issued—the people here being 
 all “Orang Sirani,” or Christians.* The congregation was 
 just dispersing, and we were surprised at the neatness of their 
 
 * Or “ Nazarenes.” 
 U 
 
290 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 attire ; the men in badjos (a sort of blouse) and trousers of 
 black glazed calico, and the women in black sarongs (petticoat) 
 and kabaias (a loose tunic with sleeves). Their demeanour was 
 becomingly grave and solemn, like their dress. The parson, 
 however, looked an odd figure in a white tie, a Huropean 
 dress-coat never made for him, black pants of uncertain age, 
 and a tall narrow-rimmed beaver hat. Their church was fitted 
 up like a Dutch or a Scottish country kirk, and had been 
 entirely erected by the villagers, who, according to custom, 
 each contributed their share of its cost in labour or material. 
 
 On arrival at Paso, we found the Rajah (the chief of the 
 village, an official appointed by the Government without any 
 territorial possession) preparing to leave for a week to attend 
 some great native festival in a neighbouring village, but he 
 has kindly offered us aroom in his house. He remembers Mr, 
 Wallace, who visited Paso in the time of his father (who was 
 also Rajah), Beccari, Macleay, and the officers of the Challenger, 
 who had all occupied his house, he informs us. 
 
 May 15th. The Rajah, and a great part of the villagers with 
 him, left this forenoon. The last thing done before starting — 
 was to rake and tidy the space in front of the church, “for if 
 proper respect were not paid to Tuan Allah, perhaps some mis- 
 fortune might befall one or other of the praus.” ‘The final 
 start for the boats was made from the church door. Their 
 belief in the avenging nature of the deity is very strong. 
 
 A Strobilanthes hedge-girt path in front of the Rajah’s 
 house leads straight to the Bay of Baguala, along the isthmus, 
 which is nothing but a sandbank recently raised from the sea. 
 
 Along the 8.E. shore of Leytimor I observe precipitous 
 cliffs of coral from 200 to 300 feet in height én situ, indicating 
 a considerable amount of elevation. The Bay of Baguala is at 
 this season very calm, but a month hence the natives say the 
 monsoon will have changed, and it will be difficult for boats to 
 come in. Now, however, the scene is a very lively one at all 
 hours of the day, for the traders bringing sago-meal, fish and 
 fruits from Ceram, Saparua, Nusa-lau and the N.E. shores of 
 Amboina are hurrying before the change of weather to bring 
 over their produce to Amboina, and get back again with their 
 exchanges. On arriving in the Baguala Bay their boats have 
 to be all unloaded, and dragged over the narrow isthmus into a 
 
IN THE MOLUCCAS. 291 
 
 creek of the Amboina Bay, which at high water is only a few 
 yards distant; and as the constant unpacking and repacking is 
 accompanied by shouting and singing to the beating of a tom- 
 tom, without which no work can be done here as it times them 
 to concerted action, Paso is anything but dull. 
 
 May 21. Lopes and Peter as usual out hunting for birds, 
 while I went to the forest to botanise; Anna labelling the 
 insects and birds at home. ‘The fine Ornithoptera, the Kupu- 
 ‘Kupu rajah or royal butterflies, for which this island is 
 famous, are very difficult to catch, as they fly at so great a 
 height ; nevertheless the large green O. priamus, and O. remus, 
 have been obtained feeding on the Cerbera lactaria and C. 
 odallam. I have on several occasions found the bodiless wings 
 of the prtamus in the forest paths, as if it had been attacked by 
 birds, the body devoured and the wings dropped. Nowhere 
 have I seen insect life—especially beetles—so abundant, or of 
 greater variety and beauty, as here; one of the less rare 
 species is the grand Sagueir (palm-wine) feeding-beetle, 
 Euchirus longimanus, figured by Mr. Wallace in his Malay 
 Archipelago, which perish in thousands every year by 
 dropping, generally during the night, into the palm-wine | 
 collecting buckets whence they cannot escape. 
 
 Coming as I have done from the Indo-Malayan part of the 
 Archipelago the new character of the fauna has greatly pleased 
 me. Gay parrots I had counted on seeing; but the unex- 
 pected richness of the plumage of the pigeons has been a special 
 delight to us at every return of our hunters. The Marsupial 
 species of Cuscus also, of which we have obtained three species, 
 have interested us. They are very plentiful, and at this season 
 the females all seem to have a little one in their pouch. One 
 of these was a tiny creature about two inches long, quite hidden 
 in its pouch, fixed by its lips formed into a simple round orifice 
 to its mother’s teat. They are much eaten by the natives, by 
 whom they are caught in nooses set in the trees, or by artifice 
 In moonlight nights creeping stealthily to the foot of a tree 
 where they have observed one sleeping, taking care not to lift 
 their heads so that the light flash in their eyes, they imitate at 
 short intervals its cry by placing the fingers in the nose; the’ 
 Cuscus descends and is fallen on by the watchers below. The: 
 python is their greatest enemy, and devours large numbers of | 
 
 U2 
 
292 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 them as they cling to the branches during the day in a semi- 
 torpid condition. 
 
 Heavy rain fell for several hours this afternoon, and 
 suddenly set a patch of forest near the house alive with a loud 
 hoarse uproar of tree-frogs, that continued without intermis- 
 sion till long after sunset. Last night, as we were falling 
 asleep, a colony of a different species, residing in the “atap,” 
 (thatch) of the rajah’s house, set up an irritating, harsh 
 croupy bark like a little cur’s, repeated every two or three 
 seconds till break of day, quite disturbing our rest. I roused 
 Lopes several times to beat the thatch, but they would not be 
 persuaded to cease croaking. 
 
 May 24th. This morning at four o’clock got up and beat a 
 vigorous tatoo on the rajah’s “ bedug” (drum) to assemble the 
 rowers who had agreed to row us to Tengah-tengah on our way 
 to Wai, and with whom it had taken me the whole of yester- 
 day to come to terms as to a boat and its hire. On mustering 
 our crew half of them failed to put in an appearance, sending 
 word that they did not now wish togo. New men therefore had 
 to be found and terms discussed with them; and even with 
 them much time was lost, as during the loading of the boat they 
 took every opportunity of slinking off to their homes, whence 
 they had to be routed out over and over again. This is an 
 exhibition of the Sirani in their true character—at least, the 
 side of it they oftenest show, lazy, untruthful, arrogant and 
 void of conscience. Having abjured the Mahomedan religion 
 for that of the Europeans—in form—and acquired some words 
 of their language, they consider themselves quite the equals 
 of the Dutch. Their change of religion has done much for 
 them, in many ways, as a community, but little for them 
 individually. They can be excessively tantalising; and both 
 as traders or servants I find them less honest hearted and 
 reliable than their Islamite brethren. 
 
 At length got under weigh at eight o’clock in an “ orembai” 
 with six rowers, a helmsman, and a man to beat the drum. 
 We skirted the northern shore of the Baguala Bay, and landed 
 in a little baylet in its promontory, where the village of Tengah- 
 tengah lies built up in terraces from the shore. These terraces 
 are lined by thick rows of the true Bread-fruit tree (Artocarpus 
 encisa), Whose produce, the rajah tells me, brings in some £400 
 
IN THE MOLUCCAS. 293 
 
 
 
 a year to the village. The people are Mahomedans, and their 
 language was quite unintelligible to us, being the bahasa negorat 
 or the old language of the country, which the Sirani consider 
 it beneath them to speak, just as they imagine it derogatory to 
 their more elevated position as Sirani to wear the head-cloth 
 and Malay sarong. The largest edifice in the village is the 
 Baluai, the council room, where the rajah, the priests, and the 
 chiefs of the village hold their deliberations. The rajah of 
 Paso told me that his Baluai had fallen to ruins, but as the old 
 bahasa, which they had quite discarded, might alone be spoken 
 in it, they could not rebuild it. The Baluai corresponds very 
 nearly with the Balai of Sumatra, and both words have pro- 
 bably a Polynesian origin. ‘The manners of the villagers here 
 are simpler and far less haughty than those of the Sirani; but 
 they seem poorer and less advanced in civilised ways. 
 
 After some delay, but without any unpleasantness, we ob- 
 tained a boat and rowers and started for Wai. From Tengah- 
 tengah we sailed through what might have been a bay in 
 Fairyland: the coral gardens beneath our keel, so beautiful 
 that we found it difficult to proceed far without bidding our 
 rowers to rest on their oars to let us admire each more 
 wonderful spot; around us the white shore line, in front of 
 a dark green palm-fringe ; behind us the island of Haruku 
 embowered in foliage, and the distant peaks of Ceram. 
 When at length we ran our prau on the shore in the mid- 
 afternoon in front of the village of Wai, the unreal nature of 
 the scene seemed complete, so buried was the place in sleep,— 
 not a moving creature was to be seen anywhere on the shore 
 or in the village, not a sound of life broke the stillness of its 
 tree-shaded “straats,” not the bark of a dog, or the note of a 
 bird from among the trees, whose branches hung listless in 
 the broiling sun. So heavy lay the death-like silence on all 
 around that we felt as if we ought not to speak above a 
 whisper, or to tread except on tip-toe, as, led by one of our 
 boatmen, we slowly made our way to the house of the rajah, 
 who, after a time, appeared in his sleeping attire, in a half- 
 bewildered and confused state at finding a couple of white 
 strangers in his verandah. At last, when he had slowly 
 grasped the reason of our unexpected advent, we came to terms 
 with him for an unoccupied house of his a few doors from 
 
294 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 his own, and it was curious to observe the surprised air of the 
 people as they roused themselves to watch our installation. 
 
 Though built of stone in the European style, our new 
 abode with its damp sand-floor, is not to be compared for 
 comfort with a bamboo pile-hut. It has one splendid acces- 
 sory in a large bath-house erected in a secluded spot over 
 a stream widened out and enclosed where it issues from the 
 base of the Silahutu mountain, and above where the villagers 
 are permitted to use it. 
 
 Sunday, May 28th. Strolled out together in the early morn- 
 ing by the shady paths of the neighbouring forest, and back to 
 the village along the bay whose charming view never ceases 
 to afford us unmixed delight, and on whose beach the east 
 wind, now begun to blow roughly, has been throwing a wealth 
 of sponges, hydroids, and shells among which there is always 
 something new to us, and where we spend many hours of our 
 walks in watching the painted fields of shore crabs (Gelasi- 
 mus) with their richly coloured pincer limbs and carapace, 
 the restless chattering Flycatchers (Myiagra galeata) and 
 the sedate Kingfishers on the Mangroves watching for little 
 crustacea, and those curious fishes (Perzophthalmus) that hop 
 along the shore out of the water in such an odd way. 
 
 The village is laid out in rectangular plots fenced in by 
 Strobilanthes hedges, in which are set the gated entrances to 
 garden-fronted houses. The streets, lined with overarching 
 trees, are margined along their water conduits by borders 
 of pink crocus-like plants. One of its chief edifices is the 
 Gredja, whose grandeur quite overwhelmed us; for it is far 
 more elaborately decorated than many a rural parish church 
 at home. The area of the building is set with cane-bottomed 
 chairs instead of fixed pews; but on one side, raised a few feet 
 above the floor, a large, canopied, elaborately carved and 
 richly gilded suite of seats, emblazoned in front with a coat of 
 arms (!), is reserved for the rajah and his family. The pulpit 
 is also much carved and gilded, and the church altogether is 
 tastefully fitted and abundantly lighted with petroleum lamps. 
 The services are conducted in High Malay by a European 
 missionary, and in his absence by the Guwrw or native school- 
 master, who with moderate regularity instructs the children 
 five days a week. Amboinese rajahs keep no state, and wear 
 
IN THE MOLUCCAS. 295. 
 
 
 
 no special dress except on Sundays. To-day we had the 
 honour of seeing the Potentate of Wai proceed to church in 
 state, in his black trousers—which, being rather short, displayed 
 a good deal of white cotton stocking—black ‘swallow-tail ’ 
 coat made for a stouter and taller individual than himself, 
 probably his father, and a beaver hat, tall and narrow, of an 
 ancient pattern, while over his head a youth carried. his 
 gilded state umbrella. The whole population attended the 
 service, all of them in black calico attire; but their religion 
 seems to lie on them like an awesome thraldom. 
 
 June 8th. Began packing up in order to return to Amboina 
 in time for the Timor-laut steamer of the 16th. We have had 
 a delightful sojourn here notwithstanding the heavy rains that 
 set in soon after our arrival, which prevented me much to my 
 regret, from reaching the summit of Silahutu. The later hours 
 of every afternoon have been looked forward to by us both as 
 the most pleasant of the day, when the hunters’ spoils were 
 displayed to be admired, examined and labelled. Among but- 
 terflies we have added a few more of the fine Ornithoptera 
 found at Paso, numbers of “Swallow-tails,” chief among them 
 the deep blue Papilio ulysses, species of Hebomoia and Pieris, 
 Charaxes euryolus, and many “Blues”; among beetles we 
 have added to our collection many species of all the finest 
 families, Longicorns, Rose-chafers, Tiger-beetles and golden 
 Buprestide ; among birds may be mentioned the beautiful 
 raquet-tailed Kingfishers of the genus Tanysiptera, which I 
 was rather surprised to find in large chattering corrobories in 
 the tops of high trees; Maleos, whose terra-cotta eggs are 
 eagerly hunted for by the natives as a table luxury; Mega- 
 lurus amboinensis, an isabelline Reed-warbler found chirping 
 among the tall Kussu grass; bright orange Thick-heads 
 (Pachycephala), Lories, and among our favourite pigeons num- 
 bers of the beautiful black and cream-white nutmeg-eaters 
 (Myristicivora bicolor) of which the little islet of Pulu Pombo, 
 lying a few miles off the coast, is a densely populated colum- 
 barium. The most interesting of the plants are species of 
 Myrmecodia, on which I have been able to continue the observa- 
 tions begun at Kosala in Java (see pages 79-82). 
 
 To-day I had a long talk with the rajah and some of the 
 people of the neighbouring Mahomedan village, from whom I 
 
296 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 have somewhat extended the Batumerah Vocabulary given by 
 Mr. Wallace in the appendix to his Malay Archipelago. 
 Amboina, June 10th. Yesterday at daybreak left Wai to 
 come here. As the state of the monsoon prevented our journey- 
 ing to Paso by boat, we proceeded across the promontory on 
 foot, our baggage carried by porters, and A in a palan- 
 quin. The road led over numerous small hills, from the top of 
 which we got many pretty peeps of Haruku and Ceram, through 
 Gum-tree—the famous Kajuput—forest and Kussu-grass fields, 
 studded throughout with bright yellow Hibiscus-trees and with 
 fragrant Habenaria susanne orchids, while by the path-side grew 
 bright Polygalas and delicate pink Sonerilas. The nectaries 
 of the Habenaria averaged six inches in length, and though 
 containing only a small drop of nectar at the bottom, I believe 
 the flowers to be fertilised by a moth with a tongue far shorter 
 than six inches. Descending into the Baguala Bay we skirted 
 the shore all the way to Paso, where we found we must wait till 
 afternoon for the rise of the tide. It was only after hours of 
 bargaining and cajoling, and the assistance of the rajah’s autho- 
 rity, we obtained (long after the tide had sufficiently risen) 
 a boat and men to take us down the bay. This unnecessary 
 delay did not tend to raise the Amboinese character in our 
 estimation, especially as it had turned out a soaking night and 
 so dark that we could not see where we were steering ; while, to 
 crown all, our boat was a very unsafe “ dug-out ” with no out- 
 riggers, in which we could not dare to beguile a part of the 
 way in sleep for fear of capsizing it by an unguarded move- 
 ment. Luckily the sea was as smooth as glass, and we kept 
 ourselves awake watching the crickling rain and the drip of 
 our paddles dancing into phosphorescent drops on the water, 
 the luminous zig-zag path that the frightened fishes traced 
 in darting from below our keel, and the flashing torches of 
 the fishers arranging their Seros. Arriving about midnight 
 utterly worn out, we were much annoyed to find the door 
 of our old quarters unopened, and none of the preparations 
 made which we had sent on Lopes—who was really never to 
 be depended on out of our sight—in advance to see to; we 
 pretty truly surmised that he had got “unco happy” among 
 his friends and forgotten all about us. After a long wait in the 
 rain the key was at last obtained by rousing up our kind old 
 
 
 
IN THE MOLUCCAS. 297 
 
 Chinaman, and our baggage drenched in the rain and in the 
 leakage of the boat, at length deposited undercover. Finding 
 a boat-sail in one of the rooms, we were glad to throw ourselves 
 upon it on the stone floor—a wretched night even for me, 
 but worse for my companion, hardly yet inured to roughing it, 
 and for whose sake I bitterly grudged such hardship in a town 
 so civilised as Amboina. 
 
298 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 FROM AMBOINA TO TIMOR-LAUT. 
 
 Leave for Timor-laut—Saparua—Curious village and atoll of Gessir—New 
 Guinea—Aru—Ke—Timor-laut—First impressions—N ew birds and but- 
 terflies—State of siege—Negotiate for a house—Language—Our barter 
 goods. 
 
 JULY 5th. On board the SS. Amboina. At last, at 5 a.m. “ Full 
 steam ahead ”—for Timor-laut. Since the 10th of last month, 
 after completing our stock of beads, knives, and the thousand 
 and one knick-nacks bought pretty much on chance in the 
 hope of their being good trade, we have been living with all 
 our baggage packed and roped, expecting every hour the 
 arrival of the New Guinea steamer—a period of intense 
 discomfort and unrest. Before its arrival was announced we 
 had quite concluded that some accident had befallen it. At 
 last, however, we are on board, and have already forgotten our 
 vexation in the keen satisfaction of being really on our way 
 Eastward to the islands where we hope to find so many new 
 forms of life. 
 
 Our enforced sojourn in the town was not altogether 
 without pleasure. Amboina is one of the most salubrious 
 of towns, and is charmingly laid out in arbour-like streets— 
 very enjoyable in the evenings—which lead to the beach and 
 to the grassy hills on the outskirts along the shores; while, 
 being the head-quarters of a regiment of troops, music was 
 discoursed twice a week on the plain in front of the Fort; 
 and, having then no HKuropean acquaintances, we had leisure 
 to look on at phases of Chinese, Arab, and native life, which, 
 standing in the dark, gazing into lamp-lit churches, dwellings, 
 shops, and gambling-houses, we could unnoticed interest our- 
 selves in. On the day after the arrival of the Java mail that 
 brought us the sad intelligence of the death of Mr. Darwin, 
 
To tace Page 415 
 ‘ 
 
 
 
 Wola qu 
 ‘rae ae 
 
 Vee lewd 
 
 ys dns 
 
 gaia. 
 
 
 
 S 
 wii 
 
 ans 
 
 
 
 
 
 A 
 
 
 
 co tit he, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 TENIMBER ISLANDS 
 
 R 
 TIMOR LAUT 
 Compiled from the latest information 
 
 With corrections by M*H.0.Forbes 
 Scale of EnglishMiles 
 
 
 
 2 
 Dotted line indicates region whence 
 
 the Authors collections were obtained. 
 
 
 
 \ 
 London; Sampson. Law, Marston, Searle & Rivingtor 
 
 132°. 
 

 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 299 
 
 I was delighted to be hailed by Dr. Julius Machik, an old 
 friend of mine in the Lampongs of Sumatra, who posted to the 
 charge of the Military Hospital, had come with his family to 
 reside here. His house was forthwith our constant rendezvous, 
 and as he was a keen entomologist and ichthyologist, the rest 
 of the time till our departure passed most pleasantly. 
 
 July 5th and 6th were spens in touching at Saparua, one of 
 the Ceram group, and in lying for a day in our favourite port 
 of Banda. Having steamed slowly during the next night 
 we anchored in the morning of the 7th at Gessir, a mere 
 horseshoe-shaped, cocoanut-fringed coral atoll, picturesquely 
 showing its surface above the sea at the east end of Ceram. 
 Once one of the most dreaded nests, and the secure hiding- 
 place of pirates in these seas, it is now one of the busiest and 
 most curious marts in the extreme Hast—a rich ethnological 
 gallery, crowded with representatives and the handiwork of 
 every race in the Archipelago, and dotted with Malay, Chinese 
 and Buginese dwellings, each built after its own fashion. The 
 houses are arranged in quadrangular blocks, each within a 
 high fence, opening on to clean, carefully kept streets lighted 
 by oil lamps on painted lamp-posts—all fresh as a new 
 button. 
 
 It is the rendezvous of the Paradise- and other bird-skin 
 collectors from the mainland of New Guinea, from Salwatty, 
 Mysore, and Halmaheira, and of the pearl-divers of Aru; 
 hither the tripang, tortoise-shell, beeswax, nutmegs, dammar, 
 and other rich produce from a multitude of islands is brought 
 to be exchanged with the Malay and Chinese traders, of Macas- 
 sar, Singapore and Ternate, for the scarlet, blue, and white 
 cottons and calicos of the Dutch and English looms, for the 
 yellow-handled hoop-iron knives, which form the universal 
 small change of these regions, and for beads, glass-balls, 
 knobs of amber, old keys, scraps of iron, and worthless but 
 gaudy Brummagem. At certain seasons it is quite a rich 
 zoological garden. Here may often be seen in captivity Birds 
 of Paradise of species never yet seen alive anywhere else out 
 of their own lands, parrots, lories, cockatoos, crowned pigeons, 
 cassowaries, tree kangaroos, and other animals. which have 
 managed to survive a journey thus far, but rarely farther west. 
 
 July 8th. New Guinea! This morning we find ourselves 
 
300 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 gazing for the first time on the wooded shores of the land 
 over which there lies such a halo of romance and mystery. 
 It was with the intensest interest that we landed by scram- 
 bling up on the curious and shaky platforms which the 
 Papuan projects far out into the sea as a foundation for his 
 house, over which, on narrow planks of split bamboo and on 
 rolling tree-trunks, guarding against falling into the sea 
 through the constant vacuities, we made our way to the shore, 
 which was but a narrow strip of land a few yards wide in front 
 of high and perpendicular cliffs of rock. 
 
 We were surrounded at once by a crowd of tall, erect, 
 frizzly-headed, well-disposed men and women, who found us 
 _ most curious objects apparently. It was evident that they 
 had but seldom seen white faces, for our colour interested 
 them very much. ‘They examined our legs, arms, and faces, 
 rubbing them gently and looking at their fingers to see 
 whether the colour came off or not; others, taking off the 
 scanty head-cloth they wore, took our hands within its folds in 
 a most reverential attitude. A , probably the only white 
 lady that has ever trod this northern part, was, however, the - 
 object of curiosity. After looking at her very intently for some 
 time a thought suddenly seemed to strike two of their number, 
 who, dashing away towards one of the houses, returned in a 
 little leading between them an Albino woman with fair skin 
 and yellowish hair, and placing her side by side us, burst into 
 a hearty laugh, as much as to say, “ We know now why your 
 skins are white.” 
 
 I observed that their dead were buried in the ground, in a 
 mound-shaped grave. One was entirely curtained above and 
 round four stakes driven into the ground; while another was 
 surmounted by a skull. 
 
 After touching at Ke and Aru, we bore away south by west, 
 and early on the morning of July the 13th we sighted the first 
 of the Tenimber Islands, lying between 6°35’ and 8°25’ N. lat. 
 and 130°30' and 132° E. longitude; these were the higher 
 lands of Molu and Vordate, beyond which the mainland of the 
 larger island came into view as a low-lying country trending 
 away southwards, presenting to our eyes, fresh from the ma- 
 jestic forests of the western regions of the Archipelago, by no 
 means a very luxuriant vegetation. 
 
 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 301 
 
 When the islands were first discovered and the name Timor- | 
 laut or Tenimber first applied, I have not been able to discover. 
 In Mercator’s atlas of 1636, they are represented on a small 
 scale in his map of the Hast Indian Islands. The first informa- 
 tion we possess of a reliable kind is by Captain Owen Stanley, 
 whose name is perpetuated in that magnificent pile of moun- 
 tains in the south-east promontory of New Guinea, whose heights 
 no white foot has yet ascended. In his‘ Visits to the Islands 
 in the Arafura Sea,’ in 1839 (in Stokes’ ‘ Discoveries in Austra- 
 lia’) he says: “ We sailed from Port Essington on March 18, 
 1839....Light airs prevented our clearing the harbour till 
 the morning of the 19th, and at 3 p.m. on the 20th we made 
 the land of Timor-laut. .. . At daylight on the 21st we made 
 all sail to the northward ... and anchored in 11 fathoms, 
 sand and coral, three-quarters of a mile from the shore. On 
 landing the contrast to the Australian shores [Captain Stanley 
 approached from the opposite point of the compass from myself] 
 we had so recently sailed from was very striking. We lefta 
 land covered with the monotonous interminable forest of the 
 eucalyptus or gum tree, which from the peculiar structure of 
 its leaf affords but little shelter from the tropical sun; shores 
 fringed with impenetrable mangroves, ... the natives black, 
 the lowest in the scale of civilised life. . .. We landed on a 
 beach, along which a luxuriant growth of cocoa-nut trees ex- 
 tended for more than a mile, under the shade of which were 
 sheds neatly constructed of bamboo and thatched with palm- 
 leaves, for the reception of their canoes. To our right a hill 
 rose to a height of 400 feet covered with brilliant and varied 
 vegetation so luxuriant as entirely to conceal the village 
 (Oliliet) built on its summit. The natives who thronged the 
 beach were of a light tawny colour, mostly fine athletic men 
 with an intelligent expression of countenance.” 
 
 With the exception of this meagre account we have no 
 further information regarding Timor-laut for nearly thirty- 
 eight years, when a vessel belonging to some Banda traders 
 visited the island in 1877, an account of which is given in the 
 Journal of the Royal Geographical Society for 1878 (p. 294), 
 under the title of “ Voyages of the Steamer Egeron in the 
 Indian Archipelago, including the discovery of Egeron Strait 
 in the Tenimber or Timor-laut Islands.” These voyages were 
 
302 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 undertaken chiefly for trade purposes. Mr. Hartog has the 
 honour of being the first person to sail through the strait 
 separating the north and south islands which bears the name 
 of his vessel; but Captain Owen Stanley was really the first 
 to indicate the existence of this strait; for in his ‘ Notes of a 
 Cruise in the Eastern Archipelago in 1841-2,’ which are to 
 be found in the Journal of the same Society for 1842 (vol. xii. 
 p- 263) he writes: “After leaving Baber, we made the island 
 of Sera, on the west coast of Timor-laut, and then stood across 
 for Australia. A good harbour is said to exist in the south 
 part of Timor-laut, which is separated from the north part by 
 a deep channel. Indeed,” he continues, “I feel sure that 
 when the island is properly examined, it will be found to 
 consist of several islands separated by narrow channels.” 
 
 As we drew nearer and nearer we carefully and anxiously 
 watched the growing features of our new home. I observed 
 that the much indented coast, a low and narrow foreshore 
 covered with a thick forest of cocoa-nut trees and dark-green 
 mangrove thickets, was fringed in most places with a precipi- 
 tous bluff, on which principally the villages, whose houses 
 elinted through the vegetation above them, were situated. At 
 midday we entered the narrow strait between the mainland 
 and the island of Larat, and anchored opposite the village of 
 Ritabel. As soon as we had made fast, several boats—the fore- 
 most of them rather timidly—put out from both shores, and 
 in a few minutes we were surrounded by a little fleet, whose 
 occupants scrambled on board, talking and jabbering as only 
 Papuans can, affording us an opportunity of forming some 
 opinion of those who were to be our friends or foes for the 
 next three months. They were powerful athletic fellows, and 
 conducted themselves exceedingly well, apparently awed by 
 what they saw on board of the marvellous things of civilisa- 
 tion. Their sole request was for daru or gin, the most-prized 
 by them of all earthly commodities. 
 
 After depositing our baggage, our three servants and our 
 two selves on the shore, the Amboina at once hoisted her anchor 
 and bore away. We sat down on a chest and watched her 
 grow less and less and disappear over the horizon, with feelings 
 somewhat of desolation and not without some misgivings, left 
 there the sole Europeans among a race of the very worst 
 
IN. TIMOR-LAUT. 303 
 
 reputation and without the possibility of communicating with 
 civilisation for at least three months to come. 
 
 We found the Postholder a native of one of the Moluccas 
 Islands, left here by the Resident in the beginning of May, 
 fairly well housed; but he told us he had suffered terribly 
 from fever. He was good enough to let us a room, and to 
 allow us to store our baggage under the verandah of his house 
 till we should obtain one of our own. We then sauntered out 
 through the village, which is situated on the foreshore against 
 a cliff; the houses resembled those figured in Captain Owen 
 Stanley’s narrative already referred to. They were arranged 
 more or less in irregular streets, with their gables as a rule to 
 the sea, to allow of their praus being run up under them, 
 though in many cases separate sheds were erected for them. 
 All round the village we found a high strong palisade, with a 
 portion removable, however, on the shore side in the daytime. 
 In attempting to pass out by the landward gateway we were at 
 once restrained by several of the villagers following us, who 
 pointed to the ground in an excited manner, demonstrating to 
 us its surface everywhere set with sharpened bamboo spikes, 
 except along a narrow footpath. Their gestures instantly 
 opened our eyes, with an unpleasant shock, to the truth that 
 we were environed by enemies, and the village was standing 
 on its defence. 
 
 Outside the gate we entered under a cocoa-nut forest, among 
 ferns (Asplenium, Pterts, and Polypodiwm), Clerodendrons, low 
 Solanums and Malvaceous shrubs, which grew densely over 
 the coral foreshore of the island, in front of the abrupt cliffs, 
 along whose sunny bases I saw several butterflies unknown to 
 me and new to science; but-—not possessing cuirassed limbs 
 which could despise the bayonet crop that overspread the 
 ground, from which in that climate even a slight wound pro- 
 duces often the most serious results—many of them defied our 
 deftest attempts to ensnare. The first specimen I netted was 
 a new Swallow-tail butterfly (Papilio aberrans), and the first 
 beetle a gorgeous golden Buprestid (Cyphogastra splendens). 
 
 ‘Turning in another direction, breaking through gigantic 
 maises and walls of spiders’ webs, we ascended the bluff of 
 which I have spoken, on which grew some Papilionaceous trees 
 of considerable height, along with Erythrinas and others I did 
 
304 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 not know, but in their branches I espied the beautiful scarlet 
 Lory (Eos reticulata), which, though it had been long known from 
 these islands, I was perhaps the first European to see alive in 
 its own country, and certainly the first to shoot there. During 
 the same walk we were surprised to hear from a cocoa-nut tree 
 near the village a most singular bawling, or caterwauling, 
 which I thought must proceed from one of the children at 
 play, but which I at last perceived to be produced by a new 
 species of Honey-eater (Phzlemon), whose voice became familiar 
 to us as the earliest and the latest sounds of the day. These 
 observations raised high hopes in my breast as to what I yet 
 might discover, for the species I had seen were almost all new. 
 
 The next sight was less exhilarating—on a tree-clad 
 elevation the half-burned and recently deserted village of 
 Ridol; and from the branch of a high tree before us a human 
 arm, hacked out by the shoulder-blade dangled in the breeze, 
 and at no great distance further were recently-gibbeted human 
 heads and limbs. 
 
 A state of war, we found, existed between, on the one hand, 
 the villagers of Ridol burnt out by the Kaleobar people, 
 leagued with Waitidal on the north-western corner, which had 
 taken them in, and with Ritabel, our village; and on the 
 other hand, those of Kaleobar, one of the largest villages on 
 the island situated on the north-eastern corner, which was 
 leagued with Kelaan and with Lamdesar, two other villages 
 on the south-eastern coast. Frequent raids had been made 
 recently by these villages on Ritabel, the wife of whose chief 
 had recently been picked off from the outside of the palisade 
 by a lurking Kaleobar marksman, while many of the villagers 
 showed us their recent wounds received in an attack made a 
 few weeks before our arrival. The bamboo spikes in the 
 ground round the village were set to prevent such clandestine 
 approaches. During the day they were removed from the 
 paths which led to their fields and wells, and at sunset, when 
 the last man had returned to the village, the pathway was 
 carefully reset, and the gateway barricaded for the night; it 
 was the duty of the first goer-out in the morning to open 
 the gate and remove the spikes. In this affray it was that 
 the unfortunates, who owned the dismembered limbs we had 
 seen, were captured. These grim mementoes did not inspire 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT,. 300 
 
 
 
 either of us with the most pleasant reflections, but we deter- 
 mined to close our eyes on all but the bright side of the 
 picture of which we had got a glimpse. 
 
 The villagers seemed perfectly well disposed towards us, 
 without fear or suspicion of us. We ventured to look into 
 their homes as we returned from our survey, and they beckoned 
 us in with a smile. 
 
 Our first care was to obtain a house, and at once on our first 
 morning I set about looking for a site. ‘Those who know best 
 what uncivilised ways are will understand our vexation at the 
 difficulties now encountered, the excuses for refusing one spot 
 after another, the whole-day palavers abandoned at night 
 without result, and day after day for eight days. By a large 
 present all round I had the satisfaction of at last cajoling the 
 old men into deciding on a site lying within the tide mark, 
 which forthwith was occupied before they could change their 
 minds. 
 
 During the progress of the building which of necessity 
 had to be a pile dwelling, and when my presence and 
 actual help were not necessary, we made short excursions to 
 the immediate neighbourhood on which we were always 
 accompanied by some of the natives, who seemed to take 
 the liveliest possible interest in our doings, and with whom 
 we mixed as much as we could. Perceiving that I recorded 
 their names for everything we encountered, they themselves 
 adopted the réle of teacher—the young women not less 
 than the men—repeating to us the name of every tangible 
 object, as well as trying to bring us to a comprehension of 
 their expressions for abstract ideas. After some days they 
 began regularly to catechise us in past lessons, bringing us 
 various objects whose names they had already given us, 
 and by signs requiring us to repeat to them their names, 
 laughing heartily at us when we made a failure or a mis- 
 pronunciation. The buttons on our garments formed ex- 
 cellent objects on which to teach us numeration, and many 
 a score of times we have had to stand while some Venus- 
 formed maiden encountering us in the village insisted on 
 hearing us recount their tale again. So assiduous and 
 apparently interested in our acquiring their language were 
 they, that their willing lessons are to us now one of the most 
 
 x 
 
306 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 pleasing reminiscences of these simple people. We of course 
 very soon began to be able to hold some sort of converse with — 
 them in their own language, which resembled that spoken by 
 the Ké Islanders ; and through A , who had become a great — 
 favourite with the people, caressed and affectionately patted 
 by them in her wanderings about the village, we got to know 
 much of their inner life. 
 
 We soon found that a great deal of the barter goods we had 
 brought were of little use among these people. Only our 
 German knives, cloths, and calico would be tradeable. Our 
 beads they would not look at, they were too coarse and large ; 
 their taste lay in the small scarlet and blue sorts. I had 
 brought a good many English sovereigns; they looked at 
 them narrowly and weighed them, but would not trade in 
 them. This I considered very strange, inasmuch as their most 
 valued possessions were goJd earrings. The explanation, how- 
 ever, I discovered later. The Egevon’s master, it seems, had 
 brought a quantity of false English gold made in Singapore, 
 using them as barter articles with the people on his first 
 voyages, and some of which they showed me. When they 
 came to beat out these coins the deception was at once discoy- 
 ered, and during our visit it was impossible to pass a single 
 gold piece. Had the natives had the certainty that the coins 
 were genuine, they would have given many times their value 
 in exchange, and, being easily transported, they ought to have 
 formed our most valuable trade medium. We learned, too, 
 what caused us considerable anxiety, that the islands produced 
 practically no rice ; nor was sago, as used on the other islands, 
 to be had unless we could manufacture it ourselves from the 
 trees. The products of the island from which the natives 
 mainly obtained their food-supply were Indian corn, sweet 
 potatoes, and a few species of legume, which was all we should 
 have to fall back on if our own not very ample supplies ran 
 short. 
 
 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 307 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 SOJOURN IN TIMOR-LAUT—continued. 
 
 The natives—Hair and coiffures—Vanity—Stature and living characteristics 
 —Cranial characters — Clothing — Tjikalele dance—Arms — Marriage 
 —Artistic skill—Individual and moral character—Treatment of their 
 children—Games—F ine figures—Graves—Good butterfly resorts. 
 
 Many trying and vexatious delays—the laziness of the natives, 
 quarrels in the village, and fear of attacks from our neigh- 
 bours, which are easier to look back on from the midst of eivili- 
 sation than to bear at the time, with equanimity—prevented our 
 ‘house, which taxed all our energies, from being finished till 
 the nineteenth day after our arrival, and not till then was I 
 able to commence making any close study of the surrounding 
 country, or of its flora and fauna. But we had no useless time 
 on our hands, everything was so new tous. The people that 
 came about us to gaze, were all subjects deserving the closest 
 study. Their every gesture and every custom had to be 
 watched with microscopic acuteness, if we were to improve our 
 opportunities and not fail in deciphering the story—only thus 
 recorded and to be ere long blurred and blotted by foreign 
 contact—of their race, incessantly being unfolded before us 
 in their every unconscious word and commonest action. 
 
 All the natives of the islands we saw were handsome-featured 
 fellows, lithe, tall, erect, and with splendidly formed bodies. 
 They dyed their hair of a rich golden colour by a preparation 
 made of cocoa-nut ash and lime, varying, however, in shade 
 with the time, from a dirty grey through a red or russet colour, 
 till the second day, when the approved tint appeared. Several 
 modes of arranging their hair were in vogue. It was either 
 carefully combed out, transfixed with a long fork-like comb, 
 and confined within a single girdle of palm-leaf, or a black, red 
 
 x 2 
 
DU8 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 
 
 and white patchwork band, was allowed to hang loose to the 
 shoulders ; or it was done up in a frizzed mop, different, how- 
 ever, from the unravellable matted wisp seen on the Papuans 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 j 2.0 
 
 COIFFURES OF THE NATIVES OF TIMOR-LAUT, 
 
 of Macluer Inlet in’ New Guinea, or among the Aru Islanders. 
 Their coiffure seems to depend on the kind of hair, straight 
 or frizzled, that Nature has given them; when frizzled it is 
 
 
 
 
 SAY Yn 
 
 SS 
 ‘SSS 
 
 AN 
 
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 NIN \ 
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 SBS 
 
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 Nh - 
 
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 COIFFURE. 
 
 arranged in a mop, and when straight it is combed out and 
 crimped with the instrument shown on page 309, to hang 
 down the back in a “cataract.” The arranging of their hair is 
 one of their most enjoyed occupations, and the vanity with which 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 309 
 
 they bind it within various coloured bands--—-narrow above broad 
 —laid one on another, before a mirror formed of water collected 
 in the bottom of a prau, or on the calm sea-face itself, is most 
 amusing to see. The men are very fond of having their hair 
 cut quite short, as it no doubt relieves them for a time by 
 reducing the population in that region of their bodies. 
 
 One day some of them seeing in our house a pair of scissors, 
 eagerly begged its use for this purpose, whereupon one of 
 them at once started as haircutter, and as soon as it was known 
 that such operations were going on a crowd collected, and, 
 sitting down in a row, waited for their turn. We tried to 
 get some specimens of their locks, but when they saw that we 
 desired to keep the portions we picked up, they became quite 
 afraid, and excitedly demanded them back, for tear, as they 
 said, they would die if they remained in our keeping. .They 
 gathered up every scrap, and had 
 not a kind wind assisted us, and 
 -blown a few pieces to a little dis- 
 tance out of their sight, which 
 A and I marked down noting 
 the subject from which each had 
 ‘come, we could not have obtained 
 ‘a single specimen. In Sumatra 
 feonee saw a man’ most carefully “8TRUMENT 208, CRINPING "TERS 
 bury the scraps after paring his 
 finger-nails. It seems as if there existed in these countries 
 ‘a superstitious dread of any part of their person being in pos- 
 session of another. One day, when I purchased from a man 
 his father’s skull, something of the same dread appeared; 
 for as soon as the bargain was completed, the seller took from 
 his Zuvw (or siri-holder) a piece of areca-nut, and, setting the 
 skull before him, he placed the nut between its teeth, and before 
 handing it over to me he repeated a long and devout invoca- 
 tion. On another occasion, also, when I purchased from an old 
 man a large fish, which he had just taken with great difficulty, 
 he would not hand it over to me till he had cut off one of the 
 pectoral fins, to return it, with an invocation to the mtu, or 
 soul of the fish, lest he should come by harm. 
 
 The character of the hair is the same in both sexes. Among 
 the women hair is abundant on the head without being 
 
 
 
 
 
¢ 
 
 310 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 profuse ; but they take little or no care of it, simply twisting 
 it into a knot behind, where it is transfixed with a neatly 
 ornamented comb. ‘They never dye it, that apparently being 
 the prerogative of the male sex alone. 
 
 The men vary very greatly in stature: some are short and 
 thick-set, and reach little over 5 feet, if they even attain that 
 height. The greater proportion are tall, well formed men of 
 about 5 feet 11 inches, but some stand well over 6 feet— 
 splendid looking fellows with perfect frames and magnificent 
 muscles. In their walk they stride forward in a jerky, 
 bouncing style, which gives to the head and their hair 
 when combed out behind, a quick nodding motion. Their 
 whole motion is full of grace, but so proportioned are they that 
 it really seems scarcely possible for them to move ungrace- 
 fully. As youths they are splendid examples of the human 
 form; as children not a few of both sexes are really pretty 
 in face and figure, but unfortunately they are frequently dis- 
 figured by an enormously distended stomach and abdomen, 
 which induces a sad and sickly expression of countenance. 
 The women vary greatly also; some being short and thick-set, 
 scarcely reaching 5 feet, while others are as tall as the taller 
 of the men. Many of the girls are handsome, and a few are 
 even beauties, with pensive eyes, delicate features, and fault- 
 less in contour of body and limb; but as they pass into the 
 married.state their features become coarser, yet on the whole 
 neither sex can be called ugly. 
 
 The colour of their smooth soft skin is a rich chocolate brown ; 
 but here and there among them occurs a quite black-skinned 
 individual, who is at once remarkable as being an exception to 
 the prevailing colour. In feature the forehead retreats shghtly 
 from the prominent superciliary ridges, as seen in profile, Hn 
 face it is somewhat flat. In the malar region, in some the 
 cheek-bones are very prominent; while in others, again, this 
 feature is as little observable. The brows are low, but not con- 
 spicuously hairy. The eyes are small and narrow, and in some 
 of them a slight obliquity is observable, while, on the other hand, 
 there are those with the eyeball very prominent. There are two 
 distinct forms of nose among them: one in which that feature is 
 very low between the eyes, advancing with a straight dorsum to 
 the retroussé tip, which discloses both nostrils conspicuously, 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 311 
 the tip being markedly pointed; the other form in which the 
 dorsum is higher between the eyes, is straight, and sometimes 
 arched, and the tip pointed, depressed, and incurved to form a 
 thick fat septum. In this form the nostrils are almost concealed, 
 and the alz nasi much inflated. Hn face both dorsaare straight, 
 the first form exhibiting the nostrils fully and the septum ; the 
 second form with the dorsum compressed slightly in the middle, 
 the nostrils scarcely seen, and the alx nasi inflated. The upper 
 lip is prognathus; the lower somewhat retreating or orthogna- 
 thus. ‘The teeth of the upper jaw overlap those of the lower 
 jaw, but this is not invariable, many of both sexes having the 
 teeth meeting evenly. From the malar region the face rapidly 
 converges to the small, non-protruding, round, and rather well- 
 shaped chin. ‘The ears are small, but a good deal disfigured 
 by the large irregularly bored holes and slits made in the 
 lobe, while the helix and scaphoid fossa are distorted by a 
 series of smaller holes in which the earrings graduate from 
 above downwards, from small to greater. 
 
 From my own observations on the living people, as well as 
 from an examination kindly made for me by Dr. Garson of the 
 ~ erania which I brought home, two very different types can 
 be made out, the brachycephalic and the dolichocephalic, the 
 former greatly predominating. From the differences in colour of 
 the skin, from the variation seen in the features and in the 
 character of the hair it is evident that in the Tenimber Islands 
 we have a distinctly mixed race, consisting of Malayan and 
 Polynesian elements, as well as of the Papuan as found in New 
 Guinea; in fact, some of their crania are indistinguishable from 
 specimens obtained near Port Moresby. The Malayan type of 
 nose did not always coincide with the presence of straight hair, 
 though in some cases they did so markedly. I noted women 
 in Larat with perfectly straight hair, and yet with the Papuan 
 type of nose and face; and others again in whom frizzly hair 
 accompanied a nose half Papuan, half Malayan. 
 
 By Polynesian I mean the brown race seen in the Fiji and 
 Samoan Islands, as distinguished from the sooty black tribes 
 occurring in Aru and New Guinea. This commingling may 
 be the result of many causes. Timor-laut was probably one 
 of the last Islands, as Mr. Keane believes, occupied by the 
 Polynesian race in Malaysia during its eastern migration: to 
 
312 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 the remote Archipelagos of the Pacific, and some members of 
 the family may have been left behind, and these mingling 
 with subsequent arrivals from Papuasia and Malaysia may © 
 have thus contributed to the present heterogeneous ethnical 
 relations observed by me. 
 
 That some connection with the Indo-Malayan region has 
 taken place, seems to be indicated by the presence of the 
 Tangalunga one of the Viverride, so commonly carried about 
 by these people, and of the herds of buffaloes on the mainland, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ry 5 ey 
 VASNYC 
 Anat cheat 
 TUT VTI Is oy 
 
 PO i Ly 
 cn 
 3 rc 
 
 IN 
 I 
 
 1aVolols. 
 ee 
 
 
 
 
 
 ol ZIGUTSIGTBIG 
 
 is 
 
 ORNAMENTED BELT-BUCKLE. 
 
 animals quite foreign to the Austro-Malayan region, which must 
 have been brought by the Malays, though it is incredible that 
 in their small praus they would carry so great a quadruped 
 as a buffalo. The Timor-laut tribes have, moreover, been long 
 notorious for their piratical habits, attacking all boats passing 
 near their shores, making slaves of the men, and concubines of 
 the women. In the boats that called at Ritabel on their way 
 home from various parts of the group I have seen being taken 
 back with them women, whom the chain binding them to 
 the mast proclaimed to be slaves captured or bought. ‘The 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. B13 
 
 
 
 Buginese and Macassar traders also carry on a considerable 
 traffic in slaves, bringing them from Halmaheira and the coasts 
 of Borneo and Celebes. In this way also may be accounted 
 for some of the race-mingling. 
 
 The clothing of the men consists of a narrow T-shaped loin- 
 cloth, with the ends which hang down in front decorated with red, 
 black and white patchwork, and adorned with sections of cowrie- 
 shells and with beads. ‘The women wear a short sarong (Malay 
 petticoat), artistically woven by themselves out of the fibres of 
 the Aloan-palm (Borassus flabelliformis), suspended by a broad 
 belt made from the stem of its leaf and fastened by an elaborately 
 carved buckle of wood which frequently in married women has 
 been the gift of her husband at the time when her purchase-money 
 was agreed on, possibly a sort of engagement token. Armlets 
 cut from conus shells, of brass, of ivory, or 
 of wood, carved like those worn by the Hill 
 Dyaks of Borneo, are worn by both sexes ; 
 while the women have in addition toe-rings 
 and anklets of brass. Round the helix and 
 in the lobe of their ears the women wear a 
 graduated series of silver or of gold lor- 
 lora or rings, which in the case of the men 
 is often so heavy as to break. away the 
 cartilage. The patterns of these ear orna- 
 ments are exceedingly chaste, especially 
 those carved out of bone, of ivory and 
 ebony combined, or of the tooth of the rare 
 and highly-prized_ dugong (Halicore). 
 
 Both sexes tatoo a few simple devices, 
 circles, stars and pointed crosses, on the breast, on the brow, on 
 the cheek, and on the wrists ; and scar, with the utmost equani- 
 mity, their arms and ieides with red hot stones in imitation 
 of small-pox marks, as a charm that will ward off, they think, 
 that disease. I did not, however, see any one variola-marked, 
 nor could I learn of an epidemic of the disease having appeared 
 among them. As it was considered by the women a mark of 
 beauty to have filed teeth, some of them had only a narrow 
 rim left protruding from their gums. 
 
 The men spend a life of savage indolence or indulgence, 
 the women alone are always busily oceupied. In the morning, 
 
 
 
 EARRING. 
 
314 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 after arranging their hair, the men remove from the palm- 
 trees, invariably to the chanting of a song of invocation, the 
 bamboos with the twak collected in them over night, and trim 
 the stem for running during the day to supply their evening 
 libations. Than when ascending the trees the Tenimber athlete, 
 his fautless form against the sky, and his brown skin and 
 golden hair in contrast with the grey stem of the tree, never 
 shows to greater advantage. 
 
 The chief meal of the day lasts from about eight o'clock till 
 nearly noon, and consists of boiled Indian corn meal, mixed 
 with mashed manioc and peas, along with fish—hunted for along 
 the shore with bow and arrow, or by scattering on the water 
 rice steeped in an infusion of a poisonous vine—and a very great 
 deal of palm wine, fresh drawn as well as distilled. The meal 
 is partaken of in considerable companies together in large sheds 
 open at the gables in or near the village, generally in the 
 buildings where their twak is being distilled, which are used also 
 for common assembly rooms. Very few of the older men leave 
 the meal sober, or become “ capable ” during the rest of the day, 
 a condition in which they are boisterously talkative, querulous 
 and pugnacious. The women eat in private, or snatch a bite 
 of food when they can. 
 
 All day long two ceaseless sounds are heard, the click-clack 
 of their looms and the dull thud of the stamping of Indian corn 
 and peas in large tridacna shells. If the women are not thus 
 employed they are away by prahu, accompanied by some of the 
 younger men, to fetch the necessary stores from their gardens. 
 In these plantations, made in the forest on the poor soil which 
 covers the underlying coral rocks, they cultivate sweet potatoes, 
 manioc, sugar cane, and their staple food, Indian corn, with 
 a little rice (which grows very badly), some cotton, and a good 
 deal of tobacco, whose leaves they chew but do not smoke. 
 
 In time of war the common safety is watched all night by 
 the villagers, eight or ten at a time in rotation, who dance the 
 Tjikelele round a figure of their deity, or Duadilah, each man 
 beating with his hand on a cylindrical drum, singing to its 
 accompaniment a song or invocation with a wild and shrieking 
 chorus, which at the time of full moon is kept up for many 
 unbroken days and nights. 
 
 Their arms are a shield, often elaborately carved and 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. ois 
 
 adorned with the hair of their enemies, bows and arrows, and 
 various forms of iron or copper pointed lances and spears, 
 which they can use with marvellous precision, and a long 
 sword carried in a loop in a buffalo-hide corslet to fit beneath 
 the arms made by themselves, and resembling a 16th century 
 cuirass, of which it is probably a copy. ‘They use also 
 counterfeit Tower guns (made in Singapore), but as they fill 
 them with gunpowder almost to the muzzle they are nothing 
 like the dangerous weapon—except to themselves—that their 
 unerring arrow is. 
 
 A man may have as many wives as he can purchase, but as 
 a rule it is all he can do to secure one, till, at least, he is con- 
 siderably advanced in years, and has disposed of some of his 
 daughters for gold earrings and elephants’ tusks, two factors 
 which cannot be eliminated from the bargain, and are not over 
 common. ‘These tusks are brought chiefly from Singapore 
 and Sumatra where they cost 200 or 300 florins each, by the 
 Buginese traders, who with the westerly winds seek out the 
 creeks and bays of the “far, far East” to exchange them for 
 trepang and tortoiseshell. The father of the girl has often to 
 wait a long time for the ivory portion of her price; but he 
 hands her over, on the payment of the other items of the 
 bargain, to her purchaser, who takes up his abode in her 
 house, where she and her children remain as hostages till the 
 full price is paid. A girl sorely wounded by the Blind God 
 occasionally takes the settlement of affairs into her own hands, 
 and runs away with the object of her affection, without the 
 permission of her parents, a proceeding which does not relieve 
 him of the purchase money. If, however, she had been or 
 was about to be disposed of to another man, and had eloped 
 with a more desired youth, she would be forcibly seized and 
 her companion would be punished with death. Their wives, 
 if not treated with a great show of affection, are not subjected 
 to much restraint or subjection, and live a free and not 
 unhappy life. | 
 
 The opening months of a Tenimber’s islander’s existence are 
 not passed ona bed of roses. Strolling through the village one 
 evening we were beckoned into a hut to see a newly born infant. 
 It was lying quite naked, with only a hard palm-spathe be- 
 neath its back and a square inch or so of cloth on its stomach, 
 
516 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS : 
 
 
 
 in a rude cradle or Stwela, a rough rattan basket suspended so 
 as to rock over a fire in a smoke so dense that we were 
 amazed that it was not suffocated. Occasionally the nurse drops 
 
 
 
 a4 
 
 By, 
 
 
 
 
 HAT fe 
 my osdel' 
 Hh (C78 ai} 
 
 
 
 
 , 
 ae: LT 
 
 ve 
 
 | 
 
 
 
 CARVED COMB, ORNAMENTED WITH INLAID BONE.. 
 
 to sleep, and the fire burns the bottom out of the Stwela, and 
 the child is worse off than if it had been bitten by all the mos- 
 quitos of Larat, to be free from which it is so suspended. The 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. alt 
 
 
 
 tion in the cradle, either on its back or on one side according 
 to the place of its suspension in the house, with the result that 
 the hinder part of its head becomes quite flattened. In some 
 living infants the deformity was very prominent, and that it 
 remains permanent is evidenced by one of 
 the crania of a full-grown man which I 
 brought home; but no sort of binding is 
 applied to the head in any stage of their 
 youth, as among many tribes, to induce an ! om 
 abnormal and admired shape of head. a a 
 
 The artistic ability of the Timor-laut  /ppo@ BS 
 people is unquestionably very high. They 
 are very deft-fingered and clever carvers 
 of wood and ivory. The ‘ figure-heads ” 
 of their outrigger praus, dug out of single 
 trees, especially attract attention by the 
 excellence of the workmanship, carefully 
 and patiently executed, and the elegance 
 of their furnishings; while the whole 
 length of the central pillars of their 
 houses are also most elaborately carved 
 with intricate patterns and representa- 
 tions of crocodiles and other animals. 
 Their appreciation of beauty is a charac- 
 teristic of them, which, absolutely wanting 
 in the Malay people, I was surprised to 
 find among a less advanced race. While 
 walking through the forest they invariably 
 pluck and tastefully arrange in a hole in 
 their comb which is there for the very 
 purpose, any particularly bright bunch of 
 flowers they see. 
 
 Their houses, though little more than 
 floor and roof, are very neat structures, elevated four or 
 five feet above the ground, and entered by a stair through 
 a trap-door cut in the floor, which is shut down and slotted 
 at night. In front of the door is a seat of honour—dodokan 
 —with ornamented supports and a high carved back, on the 
 top. of which is placed an image—Duadilah—with, at its 
 
 
 
 ORNAMENTED CHALK- 
 HOLDER. 
 
318 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 side, a platter whereon a morsel of food is offered every time 
 they eat in its presence. Every time they drink they dip 
 their finger and thumb in the fluid, and flick a drop or two 
 upward with a few muttered words of invocation. Along 
 the four sides spaces for sleeping on are raised some nine’ 
 to twelve inches above the level of the rahanralan or floor of 
 the house. The inmates sleep on small, neatly made bamboo 
 mats, and rest their heads on a piece of squared bamboo with 
 rounded edges, exactly similar to the Chinese pillow. In one 
 
 
 
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 HOUSE IN TIMOR-LAUT. 
 
 gable is the foean or fire-place, and opposite to it on a trellis- 
 work platform is placed the cranium of the father of the Head 
 of the house. Indian corn and other comestibles and various 
 articles are stored on little platforms stretching between the 
 rafters, and their scanty clothing and other articles are sus- 
 pended from the roof by wooden contrivances often elaborately 
 designed and elegantly carved (see pp. 320, 324). After seeing 
 how elaborately covered almost everything they used was with 
 carvings, executed with undoubted taste and surprising skill, 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 319 
 we began to ask ourselves, first, Can such artistically developed 
 people be savages ?—and, next, the more difficult question, 
 What is a savage ? | 
 
 The Tenimberese are very independent in character ; “ every 
 man his own master” is their motto. Though they have an 
 Orang Kaya or Chief, his voice has but little more influence 
 than any other full-aged man’s. The “old men’s” opinion has 
 some weight with the younger men, but every man speaks out 
 
 
 
 
 
 spf / / PD fo LP LL OE STS Sif Ly j Ps df / 
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 ARO 
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 Rayer 
 
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 HOUSE IN TIMOR-LAUT, WITH ROOF REMOVED TO SHOW THE INTERIOR. 
 
 his mind boldly and fearlessly. When any serious deliberation 
 is going on, the whole community crowds round the assembly 
 room, the women even taking part, and expressing freely and 
 without offence their opinions. The voice of the majority is 
 the law of their community. 
 
 Their moral characteristics are such as might be expected 
 from a rude people subject to no restraint ; they are sensual, 
 though no immorality in their actions or in their carvings 
 ever comes to the public gaze. ‘They are essentially selfish and 
 
320 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 devoid of all feelings of gratitude or pity. To give anything 
 for nothing would be a breach of all their hereditary instincts. 
 
 
 
 = On ‘one occasion, towards the end of — 
 ee our stay, when our larder was empty 
 Ge and our men were away in the northern 
 eis | island of Molu, a bunch of fish, which 
 LSS A was sorely in need of after a 
 
 long bout of fever, was brought to us 
 for sale; but the barter demanded was 
 a particular kind of button, of which 
 we had not a single example remain- 
 ing. We offered almost anything they 
 might choose from our stock-—cloth, 
 knives, beads—nothing, however, but 
 the button would satisfy them. Give 
 us the fishes the owner would not; 
 instead, he hung them on a peg at our 
 very door, where we dared not have 
 touched them, where they remained 
 till next day, when I had to fetch him 
 to relieve us of the putrefying odour, 
 which he did by casting them into 
 susPENsoRY contrivance tlie sea! Where they think they can 
 Ree hay escape detection they lie and steal 
 without compunction, though their laws punish the latter with 
 slavery, from which the thief can be ransomed only by a great 
 sum. When sober they are good natured enough and live in 
 harmony with each other, but in their cups they are easily 
 offended. ‘To their enemies they are savagely cruel, executing 
 on those that fall into their hands the most revolting atrocities 
 before affixing their dismembered quarters to their public 
 places. 
 
 Like all untutored races they are very inquisitive. ‘They 
 watched our “manners and customs” as eagerly as we did 
 theirs. /’rom morning to night we had constant relays lying 
 in or sitting about our house, whom it was impossible to dis- 
 miss without giving offence. Though it was a very interesting 
 study and there was much to be learned from watching those 
 big children in their various moods, it was not quite pleasant to 
 have them always with us, or to take our food with an infinitesi- 
 
 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. BAT 
 
 
 
 
 
 mally clad savage sitting at the table, rubbing his hips against 
 our plates. Happily, I observed one day that they had a 
 mighty horror of snakes, which supplied me with an effectual 
 means of ridding ourselves when over-burdened with their com- 
 pany. I would cautiously proceed to insert my hand without 
 any apparent reference to our visitors, into the large tin in 
 which my spirit specimens were kept, an operation they pressed 
 closely and intently round me to watch. A vigorous splutter 
 inside made them draw back somewhat ; but on withdrawing my 
 hand with a writhing snake, the crowd would tumble over each 
 other out at the door screaming and shouting. As they never 
 waited to see the end of the operation, they never came to know 
 that I had not a mania for keeping live snakes. 
 
 In the treatment of their children, both parents were inva- 
 riably kind and affectionate. ‘To see the fathers carrying about 
 their children in the evenings, with kindly care, one could 
 scarcely believe in the savage ferocity of their natures, as we 
 had seen it exhibited more than once. Like mothers every- 
 where else, the women seemed pleased at the notice A would 
 take of their infants, who, like those with white skins, derived 
 amusement from little dolls—stuffed with rice grains instead of 
 sawdust ; and the little packets of sugar she often gave them 
 were inviolately kept though tempting enough to the mothers 
 also, and given to them little by little. All their children were 
 profusely adorned with beads and necklets, and their little 
 limbs were encased in perfect bucklers of shell armlets. 
 
 The youths and boys used to play in the evenings in the 
 most lively manner, often in company with the younger fathers, 
 while a crowd of interested villagers looked on. One of their 
 great amusements was the sailing of miniature boats elegantly 
 made out of gaba-gaba, or sago palm stems, which they entered 
 for championship in spirited regattas. They would build also 
 forts of sand, and defend them against their comrade foes with 
 balls of wet mud. The laughter which hailed a good hit told 
 of the enjoyment and interest of the on-looking crowd of 
 villagers of all ages. Their chief game, however, one more of 
 
 skill and precision than the others, was played with dises cut 
 
 _off from the top of conus shells, of which each player had two 
 
 One of these quoits he deposited in a little depression in the 
 
 ground, and the other he played from a crease a few yards 
 ? 
 
 
 
322 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 distant, so as to dislodge a quoit from the row. If the player 
 failed to hit he had to return to the crease to play again in his 
 turn, but if he succeeded he played a second time from where 
 his quoit rested. Passing his right hand holding the dise round _ 
 to his left side as far as he could stretch, and steadying it with 
 his left hand, he would take in this position steady aim, calcu- 
 lating with a glancing eye the spot he intended to hit, then with 
 a run forward a few steps to the crease, he would deliver with 
 all his might. Not only did the young lads and boys engage 
 in this game, but even the grown-up men joined with much bois- 
 terous laughter. At a very early age the children begin to 
 wade about the shallow margins of the sea, practising with spear 
 and arrow the capture of fish, training arm and eye till when 
 they have come of age, they have attained an almost unerring 
 accuracy of aim. A fine exhibition was to be witnessed of 
 the beauty of the human figure when the youths—fine fellows 
 in the perfection of their manhood—came out at sundown 
 to practise the drawing of the bow or throwing of the lance. 
 How awkward were the attempts of myself and my Amboinese 
 boys! How well-merited their good-natured jeering! The 
 marvellous grace, however, of the human form was unsur- 
 passingly exhibited when—the setting sun behind their lssom 
 untrammelled figures—the women were returning from the 
 fields, standing erect at the stern, and with long strokes poling 
 in their buoyant praus. One view might shame half of the 
 spine-deformed, waist-distorted slaves of fashion out of cus- 
 toms, which are as barbarous as any which are recorded as 
 strange or hurtful among savage peoples. 
 
 When a man dies, his children and relatives assemble to 
 lament his departure, but I have never seen any outward 
 expression or sign of mourning. A pig is killed, but I am in 
 doubt whether it is given to the assembled people to eat or 
 laid with the dead body, which is then placed in a portion of 
 a prau fitted to the length of the individual, or within strips 
 of gaba-gaba, or stems of the sago palm pinned together. If it 
 is a person of some consequence, such as an Orang Kaya, an 
 ornate and decorated prau-shaped coffin is specially made. ‘This 
 is then enveloped in calico, and placed either on the top of a 
 rock by the margin of the sea at a short distance from the 
 village, or on a high pile-platform erected on the shore about 
 
‘ IN TIMOR-LAUT. 323 
 
 
 
 low-tide mark. On the top of the coffin-lid are erected tall 
 flags, and the figures of men playing gongs, shooting guns, and 
 gesticulating wildly to frighten away evil influences from the 
 
 2 PL i 
 S Mita (MN Ht ),, 
 (co eS 
 ie. = Wehkdddsbeigiss 
 
 
 
 GRAVE OF A NATIVE CHIEF. 
 
 sleeper. Sometimes the platform is erected on the shore above 
 
 high-water mark, and near it is stuck in the ground a tall 
 
 bamboo full of palm-wine; and suspended over a bamboo rail 
 veo 
 
o24 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 
 
 are bunches of sweet potatoes for the use of the dead man’s 
 Nitu. Two days after the burial, the family go to bathe and 
 wash their hair; and after two days more they search for 
 ten fishes and one tortoise wherewith to give a feast, which is 
 finished with siri and libations of palm-wine. When the body 
 is quite decomposed, his son, or one of the family, disinters 
 the skull and deposits it on a little platform in his house, in 
 the gable opposite the fire-place, while to ward off evil from 
 himself he carries about with him the atlas and axis bones of 
 its neck in his /wvu, or siri-holder. The bodies of those who 
 die in war or by a violent death are buried, and not placed on 
 
 
 
 CARVED SUSPENSORY CONTRIVANCES, 
 
 rocks or on a platform, where only such as die naturally are 
 deposited; and if his head has been captured a cocoa-nut is 
 placed in the grave to represent the missing member, and to 
 deceive and satisfy his spirit. 
 
 I am doubtful if these rites are always faithfully performed, 
 for on walking along the shore I have often seen, where the 
 coffin has fallen to pieces, complete crania on the rocks where 
 the body had been deposited, while occipital and frontal bones, 
 mingling with jaws of pigs, lay quite uncared for on the shore. 
 The dead man’s spirit, they say, goes to Nusa Nitu, or Mara- 
 matta—“ an island near to Ceram,’ which the navigator passes 
 fearful and vigilant, believing he hears strange unsiren sounds 
 wafted out to him on the sea, and is thankful when the Home 
 of the Spirits has sunk down in the horizon behind him. 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. \ 29% 
 
 
 
 Northward from Ritabel, our village, the shore of the channel 
 was dotted with detached coral boulders, on each of which 
 several corpses reposed, whence the most fearful stench used 
 especially after rain, to come down the wind. Whether this, or 
 the Convolvulaceze and creeping Papilionacez that flowered in 
 abundance there, was the attracting cause I cannot say; but 
 certain it is that these most pestiferous spots were our richest 
 butterfly grounds. There A caught the new Hypolymnas 
 forbes, Terias laratensis, and among many others two different 
 species, Calliplaea visenda and Chanapa sacerdos—which it was 
 next to impossible to distinguish on the wing from their 
 mimicking each other—both new to science, while the lovely 
 Ptilopus wallacit frequented in crowds the fig-trees that over- 
 hung this fceetid shore. 
 
 
 
S20 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 SOJOURN IN TIMOR-LAUT—continued. 
 
 Religion and superstitions—Visit to Waitidal—Barter for a skull—Send my 
 hunters to the northern islands of the group—Climate of Timor-laut— 
 A mauvais quart Pheure—Designation of the group—Geographical and 
 geological features. 
 
 THE Tenimber islanders recognise some supreme existence 
 whom they call Duadilah, of whom there is an image in their 
 houses, over the principal seat, or dodokan, facing the entrance, 
 with at its side a platter, or belaan, on which a little food and 
 drink is placed whenever they themselves eat. From their luvus, 
 among the other heterogeneous odds and ends which it con- 
 tains, they can generally produce one small image, sometimes 
 more. ‘Their little gods vary in form according to the occupa- 
 tion they are engaged in; but in what light they regard them 
 I could not discover. Singularly enough, one of these images 
 (on the left hand, p. 327) has a most wonderful resemblance to 
 one brought by Mr. Wallace from New Guinea, and figured 
 in his ‘ Malay Archipelago.’ That they have a firm belief in 
 a powerful, chiefly an avenging, spirit I feel certain. One 
 day a stranger to the village had his loin-cloth stolen. After 
 several days had passed without his recovering it, we were 
 surprised to see a boat urgently propelled across the bay, 
 from which the owner of the stolen cloth impulsively sprang, 
 bringing with him a small red flag on the end of a slender 
 pole. This he erected on the spot whence his cloth had dis- 
 appeared, and after looking up with a steady and penetrating 
 eye and repeating in a most tragic and excited manner a long” 
 imprecation against the thief and the village, he removed the 
 pole, jumped into his boat, and, without accosting any one, 
 withdrew in the same urgent manner from the now doomed 
 
 village. 
 
INP TIMOR-LAGT, 327 
 
 As the constant dread of attack by the Kaleobar tribe on our 
 village, by keeping us in a daily state of suspense and anxiety, 
 restricted my operations to a narrow area, I proposed to the 
 native Postholder that we should together visit that village to 
 
 
 
 DUADILAH. 
 
 try what could be done by personal influence to establish peace. 
 He, however, seemed by no means willing to accompany me, 
 excusing himself on the plea that the people of Waitidal the 
 next village, which had lost more than our own by Kaleobar 
 ‘aids, would oppose a peace. I therefore determined first to 
 
328 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 
 
 sound them on the subject. Accompanied by an Orang Kaya 
 or chief, from Sera, on the west coast, who happened to be in 
 Ritabel on a visit, and who spoke a little Malay, I proceeded 
 to Waitidal. As like most of the Tenimberese villages, it was 
 situated on a flat space of some extent on the summit of a bluff 
 which stood a good way back from the shore, we had in order to 
 reach the gateway to ascend the perpendicular face of the cliff 
 by a steep wooden trap stair, which I observed was of dark-red 
 wood, its sides elaborately sculptured with alligators and 
 lizards, and surmounted by a carved head on each side. On 
 entering I saluted those near the gate, but we were rather 
 coldly received. As we proceeded up the centre of the vil- 
 lage two elderly men, who were evidently intoxicated, rushed 
 at us with poised spears, gesticulating and shouting to those 
 around to oppose us. The tumult brought out the Orang 
 Kaya, whose approach prevented any immediate act of hos- 
 tility, and to him my guide explained the object of our 
 visit. Having shaken hands with us—a sign of friendship— 
 he, accompanied by the older men, conducted us to his house, 
 through the door-hole of which I ascended with the uneasy 
 feeling of entering a trap. My proposals being fully ex- 
 plained to them, they were received at first with little oppo- 
 sition, till my intoxicated friends joined the circle. One was 
 evidently a man of some importance in the village, and at once 
 opposed the project in a spirit of hostility, which gradually 
 spread to the others. As no palaver is ever conducted without 
 profuse libations raw palm-spirit distilled by themselves, was 
 passed round in cocoanut-shell cups, and I was expected to 
 keep pace—no slow one—with their drinking. As the spirit 
 circulated the hostile feeling developed, especially as the 
 discussion had merged into another, viz., that I should be per- 
 suaded to leave Ritabel and dwell in Waitidal. They found I 
 had sold much cloth and knives in Ritabel, but had brought 
 none over to them ; I could have plenty of fowls among them ; 
 they would find me no end of birds, and would not cheat me in 
 the way the Ritabel people were doing. ‘To this, of course, I 
 could not agree, and put my refusal as pleasantly: as I could. 
 I tried to bring the palaver to a close by rising to leave ; 
 but this they would not permit, for one of them barred my 
 exit by sitting on guard on the top of the hatch. I shortly 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 329 
 discovered that the subject of their excited wrangling was 
 whether I should be permitted to leave at all. My guide, after 
 whispering to me not to be alarmed and adding a remark I did 
 not comprehend, went away, luckily leaving tne door open, 
 intending, as I imagined, to return soon; but he either joined 
 some other drinking party and forgot to do so, or purposely 
 left me to my own resources. Pretending to be quite pleased 
 to prolong my visit, I presented my cup for more spirit, and 
 as successive rounds were filled my companions became in- 
 capable of observing that I did not drain my cup till I had 
 passed its contents through the floor, and was imperceptibly 
 nearing the now open trap-door. I took the first opportunity 
 of diving through the orifice, and with a bold step shaped my 
 course for the stairway at the top of the rock, where I felt I 
 could dispute my departure on even terms. My guide appeared 
 with rather a hang-dog look, and we wasted no time in getting 
 to our boat and rowing out some distance from the shore. 
 
 I did not venture a second time amongst them, although 
 the villagers of Waitidal in order to secure a share of the cloths 
 aud other goods I was disposing of, came over constantly to 
 our village in twos or threes, to barter provisions, carved 
 work, and ethnological objects. On one occasion an amusing 
 incident occurred during the purchase from a Waitidal man of 
 acranium. He had brought me, with the usual secrecy, a fine 
 skull, but fitted with a lower jaw which I saw did not belong to it. 
 I pointed out the fact, and urged him to make a search for the 
 corresponding bone. After arguing the point along time with- 
 out effect, he thought he had settled matters by saying, “ ‘There 
 is really no mistake ; I remember quite well when my father 
 was alive he had just this sort of under jaw!” Finding it was 
 no good and that I would not trade, he went his way; but ina 
 few hours he came back with a beaming face—he had found 
 his father’s lower jaw. His father’s brother had been laid down 
 on the same stone, hence the mistake. I traded to his dutiful 
 son’s satisfaction, who, before giving me possession, inserted a 
 piece of pinang nut between its teeth, and in a most reveren- 
 tial manner paid his last invocation to the Head of his line. 
 That son’s welfare is regulated now from the Mammalian 
 Gallery of the British Museum! 
 
 ‘The Postholder, backed by the action of the Waitidal 
 
330 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 people, would not venture to Kaleobar, and I did not consider 
 it prudent to go alone. We had therefore to bear with 
 equanimity what could not be remedied ; but it was galling 
 to be in a new and unknown country and be tied to a few acres 
 of it, without being able to cross the mainland to the west 
 coast, or to penetrate farther south from want of guides, and 
 especially of carriers to accompany me; for, contrary to the 
 general statement that there exists a “black frizzly-headed 
 savage people in the interior,” * there are absolutely no in- 
 habitants in the interior of Timor-laut. Villages occur pretty 
 thickly along the coasts, except on the northern portion, 
 where there does not appear to be any population at all. 
 
 As the Postholder was about to pay a visit to the outlying 
 islands of Maru and Molu, which were inhabited by a very 
 friendly people, I decided to send with him my two men—as I 
 dared not myself leave my Herbarium to the care of a native, 
 and my stores and collections unguarded—to collect and bring 
 me all the information they could on the points I instructed 
 them on, while I continued my operations on the still fruitful 
 region to which I had access. 
 
 The climate of Timor-laut is one of extreme insalubrity. 
 For the first eighteen to twenty days none of my company 
 suffered in the least ; but that period seemed to be with us all ° 
 the limit of resistance to the deleterious miasma. ‘The fever, 
 the result in great part of the bad water (there being no 
 streams in the district), and of the strong south-east winds 
 that then supervened was one of great severity. Coming on 
 with sickness, the temperature rose rapidly to 103°-103° 
 accompanied with strong delirium, which in A "3 case 
 continued for nearly three weeks with but short intervals of 
 release. During the continuance of the fever—which happily 
 rarely attacked us both on the same day, a circumstance that 
 enabled us to aid each other—the two most effectual remedies 
 were, besides quinine, salicilate of soda and chloroform, the 
 latter especially very rapidly lowering the temperature and 
 inducing perspiration. 
 
 Neither of us will likely ever forget our fever-attack of 
 August 27th. A , wretchedly weak and reduced from weeks 
 of almost continuous fever, was assisting me’to get up after a 
 
 
 
 
 
 * Stanford's Compendium, Australasia, by A. R. Wallace. 
 
INVTIMOR-LAUGT. dol 
 
 
 
 bad day of the same about the hour the village was going to 
 rest for the night. A terrific shot from a native gun—always 
 charged to the very muzzle—startled the whole community. 
 Shouts of “ Kaleobar” resounded everywhere. Like a dis- 
 turbed ant’s-nest the villagers, every man with his arrow on 
 the string or a sheaf of javelins in his hand, one of them ready 
 poised, clustered out round the barricades shouting and ges- 
 ticulating. We were alone—the Postholder and our men not 
 having returned from Molu—except for one servant, use- 
 less in such a case. After barricading the door and sliding 
 an explosive shell into my Martini, with a cheery word to 
 my companion who held ready a handful of cartridges, and a 
 hasty look to see if the boat which, unknown to her, I had 
 purchased expressly for perhaps such an emergency was still 
 riding by its line to the piliar of the house, to serve as a last 
 means of escape, I stood ready at the open window for what 
 might follow. A sudden silence of the shouting supervened, a 
 period of acute suspense to us, whose window did not look out 
 on the barricades, and then the chief’s son came to tell us 
 that the shot was an accidental discharge of a late-returning 
 villager’s gun. It was a mawvais quart dheure, short but 
 terribly trying, which showed how tense was the nervous ex- 
 pectancy under which the whole village was living. The 
 eaction of relief was nearly as difficult to endure as the 
 suspense had been. 
 
 Besides fever, which affected the natives also, few diseases 
 existed on the islands. With the exception of that curious 
 fungoid skin disease so common among the Papuan races, of a 
 little scrofula, and, among the old people, rheumatic affections 
 of the hands and limbs, the people were very healthy. 
 
 Among other interesting facts, I learned from the inhabi- 
 tants that the name of Timor-laut was quite unknown to 
 them. This is a Malay appellation, probably given by the 
 Macassar traders, who, falling on a large island farther in the 
 sea than the one they best knew as the Easterly islke—which 
 the name Timor signifies—designated this, by Timor-laut or 
 the Eastern Island in the Sea. Another derivation of the name 
 has been given that the appellation of the group is not Timor- 
 laut but T%morlao, in which the termination /ao means far, 
 and that, therefore, their designation signifies the Far-east 
 
332 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 Islands. I could not discover that they gave any general 
 name to the whole group; but they invariably designated the 
 mainland of the northern of the two larger islands by the 
 name Yamdena, while they spoke of the southern portion 
 as Selaru, which, in their language, is the word for Indian 
 corn. | 
 In examining the Tenimber islands, one is struck with the 
 resemblance that exists between them and the Aru group, in 
 the curious way in which both are cut up by narrow channels. 
 “Some of the southern islands of Aru (I quote from the 
 narrative of the voyage of the Dutch corvette Triton in 1828) are 
 of considerable extent, but those to the north, lying close to 
 the edge of the bank, are rarely more than five or six miles in 
 circumference. ‘The land is low, being only a few feet above 
 the level of the sea except in spots where patches of rock rise 
 to the height of twenty feet, but the lofty trees which cover 
 the face of the country give it the appearance of being much 
 more elevated.” . 
 
 The island of Larat is separated from the mainland by a 
 narrow strait, which I have designated with the honoured name 
 of the author of the ‘ Malay Archipelago ’—Wallace Channel, 
 which forms a fairly good harbour at its northern entrance, 
 but shallows away towards the south end so much that only 
 small boats can come through it at low tide, and in fact, to 
 the south of Ritabel village the bottom can be reached all 
 the way across, with the exception of a few yards, by a poling- 
 rod. 
 
 Between Larat and Vordate there is, in calm weather, a 
 safe channel, yet on Captain Stanley’s authority it is quite 
 shoal. ‘The sea to the northward, again, is very shallow, only 
 narrow passages separating the islands of Frienun, Maru, and 
 Molu, as I gather from my hunters (whose information I 
 believe to be correct) whom I sent there for a few weeks to 
 collect, and gather information. 
 
 ‘The lowness also of the country in our immediate neigh- 
 bourhood struck me much. I could see on Larat and on the 
 mainland, no ground rising at the most over a hundred feet 
 or so, for standing on the shore. I could look right across the 
 main island, and see the greater part of the only height 
 worthy of the name of mountain, within the range of vision, 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 333 
 
 
 
 the Peak of Laibobar. This mountain symmetrically conical 
 in form, rises out of the sea on an islet on the west coast, and 
 is, judging by the eye, somewhere about 2000 feet in height. 
 T have little doubt that it will be found to be an extinct or 
 dormant crater. I was shown by the natives a piece of 
 pumice stone, used by them to polish their spearheads, which 
 they say floats into their bay after northerly and westerly 
 winds. Possibly some of it may be washed into the sea off 
 the slopes of this mountain during the rainy season. Further 
 experience showed me that the whole of the mainland of 
 Yamdena, as far as my excursions extended, was also of coral, 
 which formed precipitous cliffs nearly all round the islands, 
 in some places as much as sixty to eighty feet in height; but 
 about Egeron Strait the coast is said to rise about four 
 hundred feet. 
 
 I was early struck with the fact that everywhere the island 
 was composed of coral, and that the vegetation grew on the 
 scantiest possible soil. No rock of a sedimentary or granitoid 
 character could I detect anywhere on the islet of Larat. I 
 had at first thought that a stratified-like mass near our resi- 
 dence had that character, but on closer examination it turns 
 out to be entirely non-arenaceous. 
 
 There are no mountains in the islands, and no fresh water 
 streams. All our so-called fresh water was skimmed off the 
 surface of holes made in the coral, and was brackish and un- 
 palatable. On the mainland, however, I noticed at points 
 slightly above high-water mark fresher water than that found 
 in Larat, flowing, it seemed, from springs. 
 
 The whole of the northern portion of the islands, therefore, 
 appears to have been recently elevated or is perhaps still 
 being so, after a long submersion helow the sea. 
 
 The cliffs are all of coral, and the shore at low tide is 
 formed of the stumps of elevated branched corals, and in 
 many places a flat floor of hard concrete like what I saw in 
 the Keeling atoll. 
 
334 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 SOJOURN IN TIMOR-LAUT—continued. - 
 
 Natural history—Flora—Disaster to Herbarium—Fauna—Mimicking birds 
 —TInsects—Fever and failure of supplies—Anxious waiting for steamer 
 —Arrival of SS. Amboina—Leave Timor-laut for Amboina. 
 
 Or the natural history of Timor-laut, about which almost 
 nothing was known before our visit, I have been able, to a 
 considerable extent, to fill up the blanks in our knowledge. 
 
 In some places the low shrubby under-forest is so dense as 
 to be almost impenetrable on account of its spiny character, 
 while in other parts the woods are open below. ‘The trees were, 
 some of them, of considerable height, but of no great thick- 
 ness, and but sparsely distributed. The largest I observed 
 were Sterculias and fig-trees of the genus Urostigma. The 
 former are common and, in throwing out their flowers in 
 advance of their foliage, their crowns form enormous bright 
 scarlet bosses and are the most characteristic objects in the 
 landscape. Doubtless they occur all along the coast, and very 
 likely suggested the term “ brilliant” used by Captain Stanley 
 in his description, already quoted, of the vegetation about 
 Oliliet. This tree (Sterculia foetida) is probably a near 
 relative of, if it is not identical with, the Fire-tree of Aus- 
 tralia, which has attracted so much admiration there. Legumi- 
 nous trees and shrubs were very abundantly represented ; and 
 with myrtles, pandans, palms, euphorbias, Malvacex, figs, 
 and Apocynaceous trees, formed the bulk of the vegetation. 
 Under these a green carpet of Commelyna (C. nudiflora) 
 hides the rough and knobbly coral. Casuarinas and Cycads, 
 which, both in Timor and Aru, form so striking a feature of 
 the vegetation, and phyllode-bearing Acacias with the Euca- 
 lyptus and Melaleuca, which characterise the Australian flora, 
 were singularly conspicious by their absence in the districts 
 
/ 
 
 IN TIMOR-LAUT. 385 
 over which my operations extended. Artocarpus incisa, not the 
 true bread-fruit, which is a seedless variety, but the species 
 more common in the Moluccas, was found in considerable abun- 
 dance. In its broad features, as far as we yet know, the plants 
 of the Tenimber Island belong to a typically coral island flora. 
 But among them are two most interesting species belonging to 
 monotypic genera hitherto represented, as Sir Joseph Hooker 
 has pointed out, only by single specimens—the one from the 
 far separated islands of New Caledonia, and the other from 
 West Australia. Growing in the coral crevices, often within 
 the splash of the waves, I gathered a most lovely orchid, Den- 
 drobium phaleenopsis, previously known only from Queensland 
 in Australia, while open to the wash of the Arafura Sea out- 
 side Cape Vatusianga, the trees were covered with Polypodia- 
 ceous ferns and orchids of the species Dendrobiwm antennatum, 
 while the whole shore was strewed with seeds of many kinds. 
 
 The Herbarium on which our present knowledge of the 
 flora is based is very small; my own would have been much 
 larger but for an unfortunate fire in the drying-house in which 
 it was being prepared, which consumed the greater portion of 
 my botanical collection—a heart-breaking episode which I 
 give in my companion’s words :— 
 
 “September 9th. ‘This forenoon, when quite alone, H 
 and the hunters having gone to the opposite shore for the day, 
 and Kobes to the well a mile off, while I was sitting in that 
 miserable, restless condition which succeeds a fever attack, a 
 longing seized me to look out of the door, for J had for many 
 days been unable to leave my sleeping apartment. Fortunate 
 impulse! Kobes had piled half a dozen great logs on the fire 
 of the drying-house (an erection like our dwelling, and all the 
 Tenimber tenements, of bamboo and atap thatch, now, at the 
 close of the dry season, very imflammable) and left them to 
 the whims of a strong breeze, which, at the moment I looked, 
 had just fanned the fire into fierce flames. I sped into the 
 village for help, but met the Postholder with his men running 
 towards me, attracted by the rushing noise of the flames. With- 
 out a moment’s delay some of them cut great palm branches 
 to interpose between the burning house and the overhanging 
 eaves of our dwelling, others tore apart the framework, scattered 
 the kundles of plants, and beat the flames with green branches, 
 
 
 
336 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 W one the Tenimber natives poured on water which they carried 
 in gourds and bamboos from the sea close by. With what 
 breathless anxiety I watched the effect of each gust of wind, 
 for the thatch of our house—in which were stored several tins 
 of petroleum and of spirits of wine, and a quantity of gun- 
 powder—was already scorched. Had it caught, nothing could 
 have saved the whole village, nor us from the vengeance of the 
 people. At last the flames were got under, and I had time to 
 realise that the few charred and sodden bundles before me was 
 all that remained of more than 500 of the first gathered 
 specimens of the flora of 'Tenimber collected at such risk and 
 pains. I could not bear to stand on the shore, as usual, to 
 welcome the home-coming boat, but long ere it touched, the 
 ruined drying-house had told them the disheartenmg news of 
 the disaster that had happened.” 
 
 If we except birds, animal life I found to be but poorly 
 represented. Besides a Cuscus, a genus of Marsupials common 
 to the Moluccas and new Guinea, and doubtfully a wild pig, 
 I saw no indigenous mammalian animals—with one reserya- 
 tion. On the mainland we found large herds of buffaloes 
 living in a wild state, being indigenous as far as native 
 tradition could enlighten us, for they believe that they came 
 up out of the earth. When, and by what means they arrived 
 is unknown; but there can be little doubt that they have 
 been brought by the accident of shipwreck, or by design. 
 They must feed on the Commelyna, and on the leaves of low 
 shrubs, for there is no grass to be found ; and they must often, 
 I feel sure, be pressed for water to drink in the dry season. 
 
 No kangaroos were seen or heard of in any of the islands, 
 but a small species of mouse-like mammal, of which I was 
 unable to catch a specimen, may be a Perameles or jumping- 
 mouse. Of Rodents the common rat was—too abundant. No 
 species ot Sccwride were observed. Of Chetroptera there were 
 several small species, besides a common Péeropus or “ Flying 
 Fox.” There are no deer. One species of Sirenian, probably 
 the Halicore australis, frequents the shore, and is hunted by 
 the natives for its ivories from which they make earrings. 
 One frog was collected, while snakes and lizards were found 
 in considerable numbers, one of each being a species new to 
 science. While, out of sixty species of birds, I brought no 
 

 

 
 To face page 337. 
 
 MACHIK’S GROUND-THRUSH (Geocichla machiki, FORBES). 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 337 
 
 
 
 fewer than twenty forms, and of the butterflies and insects 
 nearly one-half, that were undescribed before. 
 
 One of the objects of my visit was to determine to what 
 zoo-geographical province Timor-laut belonged. Lying as 
 it does at no great distance from Aru and New Guinea on 
 the east, from Australia to the southward, and from Timor 
 to the west, it was an interesting question which of them 
 had behaved most bountifully by it. It is surrounded by a 
 very deep sea, deeper, so the captain of one of the Dutch 
 men-of-war surveying in that region just before my return to 
 Europe informed me, than is represented in most of the charts. 
 Looking to the birds peculiar to the group, all belong to 
 Papuan genera (and nearly allied to known Papuan species) 
 with the exception of a few species, which have their nearest 
 representatives in ‘Timor or in Australia. The insects, on the 
 other hand, as collected by me, show a great preponderance of 
 Timor over Aru or new Guinea forms, with a slight Australian 
 tinge. The presence of snakes and frogs is also of great 
 interest—a new species of the former (Stmotes forbesc of 
 Boulenger) being remarkable as the only one of the genus 
 known to exist east of Java—when we consider its deep 
 surrounding sea and all the indications that the Tenimber 
 group, which is entirely of coral formation, has been elevated, 
 after a long subsidence above the surface of the sea. 
 
 The most interesting discoveries among the birds were a 
 species of ground-thrush (Geocichla machiki), figured on the 
 opposite page ; and the finding in Timor-laut of a new species of 
 Honey-eater (Philemon timorlaoensis), (the first bird to attract 
 our attention after landing), mimicked by a new species of 
 Oriole (Oriolus decipiens). For some time I was quite puzzled 
 by the difference of behaviour of certain individuals in flocks 
 of these birds on the trees. Only after the closest comparison 
 of the dead birds in my hand was the enigma solved by my 
 perceiving that the birds were distinct species, of widely 
 removed families, and I learned later that I had obtained 
 now examples of that most curious case of mimicry first 
 detected (among birds) by Mr. Wallace, where an Oriole con- 
 stantly derives protection from its foes by acquiring the dress 
 of a bird always of the same powerful and gregarious Honey- 
 eaters. In the Island of Buru an Oriole accompanies and 
 
 Z 
 
338 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 copies a Philemon; in Ceram and in Timor also, and now in 
 Timor-laut yet another—the model and the copy—hboth of 
 them distinct in each of the islands. When my collection was 
 laid out for description by Dr. Sclater, the Oriole and the 
 Honey-eater’s dress were so strikingly similar, that the sharp 
 eye of that distinguished Ornithologist was deceived, and the 
 two birds were described by him as the same species. Besides 
 these, another lovely new species of the same family (see 
 Frontispiece) of the Honey-eaters, belonging to the genus 
 Myzomela, which has been named after the devoted companion 
 of my travels (Myzomela annabelle) was obtained ; but though 
 it flitted about at the flowers of the cocoanut palms, and of 
 an Apocynaceous shrub just at our door, I could not succeed 
 in shooting a single individual, till on the mainland I at last 
 secured the one specimen that graced my collection. 
 
 On the 20th of September the steamer was due to return ; 
 but for a week we had been anxiously counting the days, for 
 we had been obliged, in order to eke out our supplies, to fall 
 back on roasted heads of Indian corn, which sorely tried our 
 teeth. We could purchase fowls on rare occasions only, as our 
 barter articles suiting the tastes of the natives were all gone— 
 it is a characteristic of the race, as I have said, to give away 
 nothing, and to part with their possessions only for what they 
 want at the moment, no matter if something of many times 
 the value be offered them. Our stock of febrifuges, so often in 
 demand, and of tea and coffee, was exhausted, and above all 
 we were sadly reduced by the pernicious fever which was diffi- 
 cult to combat without luxuries we could not command. 
 Boats from Vordate brought in the news that the threatened 
 Kaleobar attack was really about to be made, tidings which to 
 our villagers seemed confirmed by the simultaneous recogni- 
 tion of the great comet of 1882 in our northern sky. Extra 
 guards were placed, who danced, as is their custom on such 
 like occasions, round the village god night and day witha 
 hideous howling chant accompanied by beating of drums 
 which was equally incessant, and to our fever-strained nerves 
 execrable and unbearable during the day, but perfectly 
 maddening in the night. How we longed and looked for the 
 steamer ! 
 
 On the 28th, when our larder was absolutely empty, the 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 309 
 
 sharp eyes of the natives descried at break of day a thin line 
 of smoke on the horizon, and before eight o’clock the Amboina 
 had steamed slowly in, and, with a rattle pleasant to our ears, 
 dropped her anchor a few yards from our door. A couple of 
 hours later, with our precious collections safely on board, we 
 ourselves stood watching from the deck the crowd of struggling 
 boats heaving in the troubled water of our screw putting back 
 to the shore, and on our swarthy and most interesting friends 
 gazing after. us from the strand, till our little home—the 
 centre round which, for the rest of our lives, will cluster the 
 reminiscences of most strange and utterly uncommunicable 
 thoughts and sensations—sank down behind our horizon, 
 happy that some of the eager hopes with which we had landed 
 amongst them a few months before had been gratified, yet feeling 
 how much there was left undone of what we had wished to 
 accomplish; and as the verdure-clad shores faded from our 
 view the recollection of our dangers and anxieties, which had 
 been very real, vanished like an evil dream, while the intense 
 pleasure—whose solidity only a naturalist can really appreciate 
 —that we had derived from our wanderings amid a strange 
 people, and a perfectly new fauna and flora, was henceforth 
 alone to fill the retrospect of our gu among the Tenimber 
 Islands. 
 
 Turning to our letters and newspapers we realised how 
 isolated had been our situation, when we found that England 
 had begun and fought out the Egyptian war, and that we were 
 out in our reckoning both of the day of the week and of the 
 day of the month. 
 
 Reversing the route we had taken in June, we arrived on 
 the 7th of October in Amboina, where we received a most 
 cordial welcome from Dr. and Madame Machik, now installed 
 in a commodious and pleasantly situated house looking out on 
 the Bay, and in which there was at my disposal delightful 
 accommodation for rearranging and preparing my collections 
 for despatch to Hurope. 
 
 I should be very unmindful if I did not record here the 
 more than friendly attention and care bestowed on us by both 
 our hosts, during the many days of Tenimber fever—more 
 violently exhibited in Amboina than in Larat—that we had to 
 
 endure under their roof. 
 7,2 
 
340 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS. 
 
 
 
 APPEND EX [OPA Teiy. 
 
 
 
 J. On the CRANIAL CHARACTERS of the NATIVES of TImoR-LAUT. By J. G. 
 
 . Garson, M.D., F.Z.S.; Memb. Anthrop. Inst.; Anat. Assist. Royal 
 College of Surgeons; Lecturer on Comparative Anatomy, Charing 
 Cross Hospital. 
 
 In the following communication I intend to direct attention to the 
 characters presented by a series of skulls from Timor-laut, a group of 
 small islands situated between New Guinea and Australia, collected and 
 brought home by Mr. H. O. Forbes. Before doing: so, it will be well to 
 recapitulate briefly the chief characters of the inhabitants of the island 
 observed by Mr: Forbes, and described by him in a paper read last 
 session. before this institute, and published in the Journal (vol. xiii., 
 
 p. 8, et seq.).* 
 
 =) ) or * * * * 
 
 The osteological remains now to be described were obtained from the 
 island of Larat, and consist of a series of eleven skulls and crania. Of 
 these, nine are adult, one that of a young man of about twenty years of 
 age, and one that of a child. 
 
 Four of the skulls appear to be those of males, and six those of women. 
 The skull of the child is not sufficiently developed to indicate its sex. 
 The male skulls are all of a round form—broad in proportion to the 
 antero-posterior length, and resemble one another in general appearance. 
 Of the females, five correspond in form to the male skulls, in being short 
 and broad, but the sixth differs markedly from the others, in being 
 narrow antero- posteriorly in proportion to its breadth. The form of the 
 child’s cranium resembles closely that of this last skull.. The cranium of 
 the child has been excluded from the various measurements and averages 
 given in the subjoined table, now to be discussed, but that of the young 
 man is included, as I was unwilling to diminish the series by rejecting 
 it, especially as it seems to have attained its full development, except in 
 a few respects which will be noted; though I am aware that it is contrary 
 to custom to include any skull in which the basilar suture is not united. 
 The male and female round skulls are separated from one another, and 
 the latter are grouped apart from the long narrow female skull, many of 
 the characters of which are entirely different from those of the other 
 females. 
 
 Capacity—The average cranial capacity of the four male skulls 
 measured with shot according to Broca’s method, is 1607 cc., or 47 ce. 
 
 * As this has been fully done in the foregoing pages, it is unnecessary to 
 recapitulate them here; consequently, this paragraph is crm from this 
 reprint of Dr. Garson’s valuable paper.—H. O. F. 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 341 
 
 
 
 more than that of male European skulls, the average capacity of 347 of 
 which Topinard found to be 1560 cc. That of the round-headed females 
 is 1,311 cc., or 64 ce. less than European female skulls, 232 of which, 
 
 measured by Topinard, averaged 1,375 cc. While the capacity, therefore, 
 
 of the male skulls from Timor-laut is, on an average, larger than those 
 of European, that of the females is less than in Europeans of the same sex. 
 The difference in capacity between males and females of 'Timor-laut is 296 
 cc.; that between Europeans is 185 cc. The individual range of 
 capacity is considerable, one of the male skulls (No. 10) being no less 
 than 220 cc. smaller than any of the others. The largest capacity, that 
 of No. 4, is 1,780 cc., and the smallest 1,395 cc., that of No. 10. In the 
 females the range is from 1,405 to 1,240 cc. The difference, then, between 
 the largest and smallest male skulls is 885 cc., and 155 cc. between those 
 of females. The long-headed female has a capacity of 1,400 ce. 
 
 Cephulic Index.—In the round skulls the relative proportion of the 
 
 breadth to the length varies little in the two sexes; the cephalic index 
 of the males averaging 88:1 and of the females 86:0. Reference to the 
 table will show that the lower index of the females is chiefly caused by 
 the almost undeformed cranium, No. 2, which has an index of only 78:9. 
 All these skulls belong to Broca’s class of true brachycephalic (skulls in 
 which the cephalic index is over 83:33) except No. 2, which is sub- 
 brachycephalic (between 80°01 and 83°33), on account of its width being 
 less than, while the length is the same as that of the others. The long 
 narrow female skull has an index of 711, and belongs, therefore, to Broca’s 
 true dolichocephalic group. 
 _ Height Index.—This averages about 2° higher in the male brachycephalic 
 skulls than .in the corresponding females, being 80°6 in the former, 
 and 82:4 in the latter. The cephalic index of the males-we found 
 was higher by the same amount than that of the females. In the 
 dolichocephalic female the right index is much lower than in the 
 brachycephalic skulls of the same sex, a condition which the late 
 Professor Rolleston found usually toobtain. The height of the skulls is in 
 all instances less than the breadth, except in the female No. 2. The 
 indices of height and breadth above given cannot be taken as strictly 
 accurate, owing to the artificial flattening of the posterior or postero- 
 lateral portion of most of the crania, but are as nearly accurate as cir- 
 cumstances will admit, and general deductions may probably be relied 
 upon. 
 
 The height in proportion to the breadth (the latter being taken as 100) 
 is in the males as 91:2, and in the females as 95°6 to 100. 
 
 Circumference.—The horizontal circumference of the brachycephalic 
 skulls averages in the males 507 mm., that of the females 475 mm., while 
 the transverse vertical circumference of the former is 456 mm., and of the 
 latter 4246 mm. The total longitudinal circumference averages in the 
 males 501°2 mm., and in the females 473 mm. In each of the three 
 circumference measurements, therefore, the female skulls are on an 
 average about 31 mm. smaller than the males. The dolichocephalic 
 female shows considerable differences in the various circumferences from 
 the previous skulls of the same sex. Its horizontal and total longitudinal 
 circumferences are each 25 mm. greater than the average of these 
 measurements in the brachycephalic skulls, while its transverse vertical 
 circumference is 17°6 mm. less. The increased size of the two first 
 circumferences in this skull is due to the greater antero-posterior length 
 of the frontal and especially the parietal bones; the other segments being 
 almost the same in both varieties of skulls. This accords with the fact 
 pointed out by M. Gratiolet, that in women the elongation of the cranium 
 
342 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 depends essentially on the length of the temporal region, and is the 
 permanent retention of a childlike character dolichocephally; being due, 
 he has shown, to a relative development of bones which varies with age. 
 It is essentially occzpital in the infant, temporal in the child, and frontal 
 in the adult man. 
 
 The form of the foramen magnum varies considerably, being in some 
 elongated antero-posteriorly, in others almost circular. 
 
 Gnathic Index.—On an average the male skulls are mesognathous 
 (having an index between 98 and 108); the brachycephalic females 
 belong to the same group. Considerable variety is exhibited individually 
 by the male skulls, one being prognathous and another orthognathous ; 
 the same variability is not exhibited by the females, all of them being 
 mesognathous. ‘The dolichocephalic female is prognathous. 
 
 Malar Height—The development of the malar bones is usually some- 
 what greater in the brachycephalic skulls than in Europeans, but consi- 
 derable individual variety is observable which confirms the observations of 
 Mr. Forbes on living natives. The malars are small in the dolichocephalic 
 female. The depression on the malar process of the maxilla or maxillo- 
 malar notch, observed by Professor Flower to be present in the Fijians, 
 may here be seen in the skulls where the malars are most strongly 
 developed. 
 
 The Orbits—The form of the orbits varies considerably, some being 
 wider in proportion to the height than others; but the averages show 
 both sexes to be mesoseme (index from 83 to 89). 
 
 The Nasal Index.—The form of the nasal aperture presents a certain 
 degree of variation, the index varying from 48:1 to 55:8 in the brachy- 
 cephalic males, and in the females of that class from 49 to 60°5, the averages 
 of the former being 52 and of the latter 55°38. The average index of the 
 males places them at the platyrhine end of the mesorhine group (between 
 48 and 53), while the females are just within the platyrhine class (above 
 58). Two males and three females are mesorhine, and two males and 
 two females are platyrhine. The dolichocephalic skull is mesorhine. 
 
 The Facial angle formed by the meeting of the alveolar point of the 
 ophryo-alveolar face-line and the auriculo-alveolar base line averages 70° 
 in the males, and nearly 68° in the females. As differences of opinion 
 may exist as to the value of the angle taken in this way I have added the 
 nasi-alveolar length as well as the basi-nasal and basi-alveolar measure- 
 ments. With these three measurements the relation of the alveolar point 
 to the cranio-facial axis of Huxley, or basi-nasal line upon which the 
 angle of gnathism depends, can easily be calculated, and the facial angle 
 thus formed aptly compared with the gnathicindex. A further reason for 
 the nasi-alveolar length finding a place in the table is that some anato- 
 mists, without good reason, consider it to be preferable to the ophryo- 
 alveolar Jength as the measurement of facial height, owing to its being 
 more definite than the latter. 
 
 Regional characters of the cranial portion.—The glabella is feebly 
 developed in both sexes, being represented by Nos. 0:1 of Broca’s des- 
 criptive out'ines, except in one of the females in whom it equals No. 2. 
 The superciliary ridges are likewise feebly marked, the rebeing usually 
 only a slight boss projecting obliquely upwards and outwards from the 
 glabella, but not extending any distance over the orbits. The forehead 
 recedes slightly, but the degree of recession varies somewhat, being more 
 marked in two brachycephalic females than in any of the others; while 
 in the dolichocephalic females it is-the most perpendicular. Tubera are 
 well marked on the parietal bones of the young male skull, and are 
 associated with a narrow base, as is seen by the bi-auricular breadth 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 343 
 
 being less than that of any of the other males. These conditions are 
 usually concomitant, as was shown by Professor Wiesbach, and are 
 indications of a skull not having attained its full development, as in this 
 case, or of the permanent retention of a child-like character when occurr- 
 ing in the fully adult skull, as is not uncommon in women. Epiteric 
 bones are present in three of the female crania, Nos. 1,7.and 9. In the 
 male skull No. 10 the squamosals articulate with the frontal, the ale 
 sphenoid not intervening between them, as is usually the case. The 
 zygomatic arches can be seen in most instances projecting beyond the 
 outline of the cranium in the fronto-parietal region—that is to say, the 
 skulls are usually phenozygous, though more so in some cases than in 
 others. In order to estimate the amount of zygomatic projection, or 
 the relation of the maximum cranio-facial breadth to the fronto-parietal 
 breadth at the stephanion, Topinard has suggested the formation of an 
 index from the bi-zygomatic and bi-stephanic breadths, in place of the 
 angle of Quatrefages, which can only be measured by means of a compli- ~ 
 cated goniometer. Taking the former breadth as 100, I find that the bi- 
 zygostephanic index of the brachycephalic male skulls averages 87°6, and 
 of the female 87°4, and of the dolichocephalic female 94:2. 
 
 In order to compare these averages with those of other races, I have 
 worked this out in the series of Andamanese skulls and of Fijians pub- 
 lished by Professor Flower in the volumes of the “Journal of the 
 Anthropological Institute ” for 1879 and 1880, and ue following are the 
 results obtained :— 
 
 Bi-zygostephanic Index. 
 
 Andamanese .. 12 males, 88:3; 12 females, 91:5. 
 Timor-laut Pas enor OO a3 87°4, 
 Fijian’ ..; pee. §,,00 OU. 45% 75 ‘5 85°5. 
 
 Before its value can be rightly estimated it will require to be worked 
 out in a much more extended series. It may be stated, however, that 
 crania with a bi-zygostephanic index of under 90 are phenozygus. The 
 development of the inion is usually represented by Broca’s descriptive 
 figures 1 or 2. Though not very prominent the inion and the inner or mesial 
 extremities of the superior curved lines are well developed and rugged, & 
 condition to which, Professor Thane kindly reminded me, Professor Ecker 
 has attributed considerable importance as being indicative of a simian 
 character, these ridges being the representative in man of the crests so 
 well marked in the skull of the orang-outan and other anthropomorphous 
 apes. The sutures are, as a rule, simple, varying in the series from 1 to 
 3 of Broca’s numbers, both in regard to complexity and degree of oblite- 
 ration. In the dolichocephalic female the frontal suture is metopic 
 (see p. 845), but in none of the other skulls does this condition obtain. 
 The wormian bones are small in most instances. All the brachycephalic 
 skulls of both sexes exhibit more or less flattening in the occipital or 
 _ parieto-occipital region, such as would be produced by laying an infant, 
 without any soft material under the head, in a cradle, like that exhibited 
 here by Mr. Forbes from Timor-laut. The dolichocephalic female and 
 child’s skulls show no sign of flattening. The basilar suture is entirely 
 obliterated in all instances except in the youth; no abnormality is to be 
 observed in any case in the under surface of the tranium. 
 
 Regional characters of facial portion.—In most instances the face has a 
 flat appearance. The axes of the orbits are in some instances more 
 horizontal than inothers. The inter-orbital portion, though not showing 
 great variation in actual width, differs in form on account of the projec- 
 tion of the nasal bones being greater, and the ascending process of thé 
 
344. A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 maxillaries being flatter, in some instances than in others. It occurred 
 to me that this variation might be expressed by measuring the angle for- 
 med by the nasal bones and ascending processes of the maxillaries at the 
 level immediately below that of the dacryon. This measurement, which I 
 propose to call the nasi-mawillary angle, is different in its object from that 
 of M. de Mérejkowsky, which ascertains only the projection of the nasal 
 bones or maxillary processes. | 
 
 The outline of nose is represented by Broca’s descriptive numbers 
 land 3. The first of these indicates a nose with a low bridge turned up- 
 wards at the tip; the latter a straight nose with a higher bridge than the 
 other. We have therefore identified on the skulls the two forms of nose 
 observed by Mr. Forbes in the living subject. As a rule the straight nose 
 is elevated at the root,and the naso-maxillary angle is higher than in the 
 hooked nose, which is flat at the root. The nasi-malar angle is high in 
 
 ' (\ NY 
 he " i NN 
 
 " 
 
 
 
 NORMZ FRONTALIS ET LATERALIS OF THE MALE BRACHYCEPHALIC SKULL, NO. 4, 
 (WITH THE PERMISSION OF THE COUNCIL OF THE ANTHROPOLOGICAL INSTITUTE.) 
 
 all instances. The lower margin of the nasal aperture is usually well de- 
 fined, but slopes slightly in some instances into the alveolar portions of 
 the maxille. The nasal spine is feebly developed, being represented by 
 Nos. 1 and 2 of Broca. The alveolar portion of the maxille has become 
 so atrophied after loss of the teeth in three skulls (one male and two 
 females) as to be reduced to almost a narrow rim of bone; in these the 
 alveolar height has not been measured. A correspondingly atrophied 
 condition likewise obtains in the alveolar border of the respective mandi- 
 bles. In the others in which the teeth were complete at the time of death 
 this portion of the face is short; the measurements, however, indicate 
 a greater estimate of the vertical distance between the floor of the nose 
 and the alveolar plane, as in most instances there is a considerable degree 
 of alveolar prognathism. The maxille are broad in comparison to their 
 length, especially in the case of the male No. 10, where the maxillary or 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 340 
 
 palatal index is no less than 140°7. The palate is therefore markedly of 
 the parabolic form. In this skull itis also very high. The maxille are 
 narrowest in the dolichocephalic female. In all cases the posterior edge 
 of the vomer slopes considerably forwards as well as downwards. 
 
 The characters of the mandible can be only imperfectly studied, it 
 being lost in some instances and much atrophied in others. The chief 
 character seems to be the absence of prominence of the chin: the sym- 
 phesial angle is consequently high, approaching a right angle. 
 
 Dentition is normal in all the skulls except the male No. 4, in which the 
 last upper molars, or wisdom teeth, are absent from non-development. 
 The skull is known, however, to Mr. Forbes to have belonged to a man be- 
 yond middleage. The last molars have not been fully acquired in the skull 
 of the youth No. 11. In size the teeth are large but not abnormally so, 
 and are stained black in two of the male skulls, Nos. 4 and 10, and in the 
 female skulls Nos. 7 and 1. In the male No. 10, the upper incisors and 
 
 
 
 NORM# FRONTALIS ET LATERALIS OF THE FEMALE DOLICHOCEPHALIC SKULL, NO. ie 
 (WITH THE PERMISSION OF THE COUNCIL OF THE ANTHROPOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. ) 
 
 canines have been filed away on the anterior surface, and stained black, 
 making them more spade-like. This custom of deforming the teeth, and 
 staining them, is practised very commonly in Java and Birma, and else- 
 where. The incisors and canines being absent in the other male skulls, it 
 is impossible to say whether these teeth were deformed in them also. 
 In the females there is a trace of a similar deformation in No. 2, but the 
 filed teeth are not stained artificially. Grinding down the anterior upper 
 and lower teeth horizontally, and staining them, seems to have been 
 practised in Nos. 1 and 9. In the other skulls the teeth have been lost. 
 Relation of the inhabitants of Timor-laut to those of adjacent countries.— 
 That the skulls just described are not those of a pure race is very evident. 
 Two very distinct types can be made out, namely, the brachycephalic and 
 the dolichocephalic, the former greatly predominating in number. Both 
 from the information Mr. Forbes has given us as to their appearance, and 
 from the skulls themselves, there is no difficulty in recognising a strong 
 
~ 
 
 346 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Malay element in the population. The male skull, No. 4, and the female, 
 No. 6, are typically Malayan in their characters, especially in possessing 
 large open rounded orbits and smooth forehead, the superciliary ridges 
 and glabella being almost entirely absent. The other brachycephalic 
 skulls, though not presenting such a striking affinity, agree more or less 
 with the type, but give evidence of mixed characters. ‘The dolicho- 
 cephalic skull is, on the other hand, markedly of the Papuan type, and 
 corresponds so closely as to be undistinguishable from two crania 
 obtained twenty miles inland from Port Moresby, New Guinea, in the 
 College of Surgeons’ Museum, also from another from the Solomon 
 Islands. Along with this form of shell Mr. Forbes informs me is 
 associated frizzly hair and dark skin. 
 
 The examination of the cranial characters of the inhabitants of Timor- 
 laut as illustrated by the skulls before us shows that the peopling of this 
 island forms no exception to what is usually found in the various groups 
 of islands in the Polynesian Archipelago. From its close proximity to 
 New Guinea, perhaps more of the Papuan element might have been 
 expected. 
 
 The relative proportions of the two races in any particular place seem 
 to vary considerably, however, and till more is known of the history of this 
 part of the world, the distribution of its inhabitants will not be understood. 
 Valuable contributions to our knowledge of this vexed question have been 
 made by the writings of M. Quatrefages, Professors Flower and Keane, Mr. 
 Staniland Wake, and others. Series of skulls and skeletons like the 
 present from different districts, with accounts of the inhabitants, are 
 always valuable additions, and assist materially to unravel the ethnology 
 of this interesting part of the globe. 
 
347 
 
 IN TIMOR-LAUT. 
 
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 IN TIMOR-LAUT. 353 
 
 
 
 Notes ON THE TABLE OF MEASUREMENTS. 
 
 All the measurements given in the preceding table correspond to 
 those recommended by Broca in the “Instructions Craniologiques” 
 Sau 1875), except the following, some of which are not given in that 
 work :— 
 
 The transverse arcs.—These are measured with the taps from the point | 
 on the ridge at the posterior root of the zygoma immediately above the 
 middle of the external auditory meatus, where the ridge is crossed by 
 the auriculo-bregmatic line (the cowrbe sus-auriculare of Broca) over the 
 respective parts of the cranium, to the corresponding point on the 
 opposite temporal bone. 
 
 Naso-alveolar length—F rom the nasion to the alveolar point. 
 
 Palatine region.—The maxillary length is measured from the alveolar 
 point to the middle of a line drawn across the hinder borders of the 
 maxillary tuberosities. This is easily done by stretching a piece of fine 
 wire across the back of the mouth, the wire resting on each side in the 
 groove between the pterygoid and the tuberosity. The width is taken 
 between the outer borders of the alveolar arch immediately above the 
 middle of the second molar tooth. 
 
 Facial angle—The angle formed by the meeting of the auriculo-alveo- 
 lar base line with the ophryo-alveolar face line at the alveolar point 
 measured with Broca’s median goniometer. 
 
 Nasi-malar angle.—The angle formed by the nasal bones and the ex- 
 ternal margins of the orbits at a point a little below the fronto-mala 
 articulation. : 
 
 Nasi-maxillary angle-—Explained in the text, page 344. 
 
 Basilar angle—This is the angle N B Y of the “ Instructions,” p. 92, 
 or the naso-basio-opisthial angle. 
 
 Bi-zygostephanic Index.—Defined in the text, page 343. 
 
 Conoroid height.—F rom the gonion to the top of the coronoid process. 
 
 Gonio-symphesial height measured with the calipers. 
 
 The size of the glabella, nasal bones, and spine, inion, wormian bones, 
 and wear of teeth, are indicated by Broca’s descriptive numbers given 
 in the “ Instructions.” 
 
 Explanation of Plate (pp. 344, 345). 
 
 All the figures represent the skulls with the alveolo-condylar plane 
 horizontal. 
 
 The photozincographs were reduced from drawings by Mr. J. G. 
 Goodchild, the outlines of the skulls from which they are taken having 
 been previously geometrically projected by means of Broca’s stereograph 
 by myself. 
 
 This paper is reproduced from the ‘Journal of the Anthropological 
 Institute’ for May, 1884. (H.O.F.) 
 
do4 
 
 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 II.—LIST OF PLANTS FROM TIMOR-LAUT. 
 
 Compiled From the Author’s Herbarium, as determined at the Royal Gardens, 
 Kew, along with a small Collection made by Native Collectors employed 
 
 by Resident Riedel. 
 
 Clematis sp. 
 Anamirta Cocculus, W. & A. 
 Ochrocarpus ovalifolius, T. And. ? 
 Sida humilis W. var. repens. 
 rhombifolia, L. 
 Abutilon indicum, Don. 
 graveolens, W. & A. 
 Hibiscus surattensis, L. 
 tetraphyllus, Roxb. 
 Gossypium barbadense, L. 
 Thespesia populnea, Corr. 
 Sterculia foetida, L. 
 Melochia odorata, Forst. 
 velutina, Bedd. 
 brata. 
 pubescens, Bl. 
 Corchorus trilocularis, L. 
 Murraya exotica, L. var. 
 Glycosmis pentaphylla, Corr. 
 sapindoides, Lindl. 
 Tristellateia australasica, A. R. 
 Owenia (may be O. cerasifera, F. M.). 
 Calophyllum Inophyllum, L. 
 Dodoneea viscosa, L. 
 Vitis coriacea, Miq. 
 Strombosia sp. 
 Erioglossum edule, Bl. 
 Flemingia strobilifera, R. Br. 
 Desmodium umbellatum, DC. 
 Pongamia glabra, Vent. 
 Phaseolus spp. 
 Mucuna (Stizolobium) sp. 
 Canavalia obtusifolia, DC. 
 Vigna lutea, A. Gr. 
 Dolichos Lablab, L. 
 Cajanus indicus, Spr. 
 Indigofera unifoliata. 
 Dichrostachys nutans ? 
 Cynometra ramiflora, L. 
 bijuga, Sp. 
 Cassia javanica, L. 
 alata, L. 
 Cesalpinia pulcherrima, Sw. 
 Nuga, Ait. 
 Bauhinia Blancoi, Benth. 
 Pemphis acidula, Forst. 
 Bruguiera caryophylloides, Bl. 
 Lumnitzera coccinea, W. & A. 
 Peltophorum ferrugineum, Bth. 
 Eugenia javanica, Lam. 
 aff. javanice. 
 Luffa cylindrica, Roem. 
 Momordica Charantia, L. 
 
 var. gla- 
 
 
 
 Zehneria aff. mucronate. 
 Delarbrea sp. 
 Sesuvium Portulacastrum, L, 
 Carapa moluccensis, L., 
 Portulaca oleracea, L., 
 Bryophyllum calycinum, Salisb. 
 Randia spp. 
 Ixora sp. 
 
 aff. I. timorensis, Dene. 
 Psychotria sp. 
 Morinda citrifolia, L. 
 Carium Roxburghianum, Benth. 
 Vernonia cinerea, Less. 
 Blumea membranacea, DC. 
 Wedelia biflora, DC. 
 Bidens bipinnata, L. 
 Diospyros maritima, BI. 
 Maesa sp. 
 Jasminum lancifolium, Dene. 
 Dischidia sp. 
 Marsdenia sp. 
 Gymnema vel Sarcolobus sp. 
 
 | Mitreola oldenlandioides, Wall. 
 
 Alstonia spectabilis, Br. 
 Tabernzemontana parviflora, Poir. 
 orientalis, R. Br. 
 Cordia subcordata, Lam, 
 Ipomcea Turpethum, L. 
 cymosa, R. & Schult. 
 Hewittia bicolor, W. & A. 
 Convoivulus parviflorus, Vahl. 
 Tournefortia sarmentosa, Lam. 
 Solanum verbascifolium, L. 
 Lycopersicum esculentum, Mill. 
 Physalis minima, L, 
 Datura alba, Nees. 
 Capsicum frutescens, L. 
 Buchnera angusta. 
 Leucas decemdentata, Sin. 
 Coleus scutellarioides, Benth. 
 Ocimum canum, L. 
 Hyptis spicigera, Lam. 
 Premna obtusifolia, R. Br. 
 Vitex trifolia, L. 
 aff. V. Negundo, L. 
 Clerodendron longiflorum, Dene, vel 
 sp. aff. 
 Barleria Prionotis, L. 
 Dilivaria ilicifolia, Jacq. 
 Asystasia (an) chelonoides, Nees, 
 Hypoéstes floribunda, R. Br. var. 
 Eranthemum sp. (? variabile.) 
 Deeringia celosioides, R. Br. 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 
 
 
 
 fHrua scandens, Wall., vel velutina, 
 Mig. 
 
 sanguinolenta, Bl. 
 Amarantus caudatus, L. 
 Salsola Tragus, L. 
 Myristica insipida, R. Br. 
 Aristolochia sp. 
 Piper sp. aff. P. canino, Dietr. 
 Loranthus (Dendrophthoe) sp. aff. L. 
 
 rigido, Wall. 
 Manihot utilissima, Pohl. 
 Acalypha indica, L 
 Phylanthus diversifolius, Mill. Arg. 
 vel sp. aff. 
 Excecaria Agallocha, Miill. Arg. 
 Mallotus albus, Miill. Arg. 
 repandus, Mull. Arg. 
 
 Trewia sp. 
 Sponia timorensis, Dene. 
 Fatua pilosa, Gaud. 
 
 lanceolata, Dene. 
 Pipturus velutinus, Wedd. 
 Fleurya interrupta, Gaud, 
 
 399 
 
 
 
 Pouzolzia pentandra, Benn. 
 
 Urostigma sp. 
 
 Ficus sp. aff. acanthophylle, Miq. 
 
 Balanophora sp. 
 
 Dendrobium antennatum, Lindl. 
 Phalenopsis, Fitzg. 
 
 Dioscorea spp. 
 
 Cordyline terminalis, Kth,. 
 
 Commelina nudiflora, L. 
 
 Cocos nucifera, L. 
 
 Borassus flabelliformis, L 
 
 Metroxylon leve, Mart. 
 
 Pandanus sp. 
 
 Aroidez spp. 
 
 Cyperus pennatus, Lam. 
 
 Setaria italica, Beauv. 
 
 Sorghum vulgare, Pers. 
 
 Polypodium irioides, Lam. 
 
 Pteris tripartita, Lam. 
 
 Asplenium galeatum, Lam. 
 
 Vittaria elongata, Sw. 
 
 Lycopodium carinatum, Des. 
 Phlegmaria, L. 
 
 
 
 JII.—LIST OF THE BIRDS OF TIMOR-LAUT* 
 
 In order to give as correct a list as possible of the Avifauna of the 
 Tenimber Islands, I have reproduced the original descriptions of my 
 collections given by Dr. Sclater, in the ‘ Proceedings’ of the Zoological 
 Society, ec pp. 48, 194). I have also included the species recently 
 described by Dr. Meyer, from specimens obtained by Mr. Reidel’s hunters, 
 in the paper read by him at the Ornithological Congress in Vienna in 
 1884, entitled, ““ Neue und unbeniigend bekennte Vogel Nester und Hier 
 aus dem Ostindischen Archipel im K6nigl. Zool. Mus. zu Dresden.” 
 Some of these species were also met with by myself, but I have in many 
 cases not been able to recognise their distinctness from other previously 
 described forms. As many of these differences of opinion have been the 
 subject of discussion between Dr. Meyer and myself, I have thought it as 
 well to reproduce my published remarks in the present appendix. 
 
 I, ACCIPITRES. 
 
 . ASTUR ALBIVENTRIS, Salvad. 
 Urospizias albiventris, Salv., Meyer, loc. cit. 
 . HALIZTUS LEUCOGASTER, Gm. 
 Cuncuma leucogaster, Gm., Meyer, loc. cit. 
 . HALIASTUR GIRRENERA, Y. 
 . BAZA SUBCRISTATA, Gould. 
 . PANDION LEUCOCEPHALUS, Gould. 
 . CERCHNEIS MOLUCCENSIS, H. & J. 
 Tinnunculus moluccensis, Sclater, loc. cit. 
 . NInox FORBESI, Sclater, loc. cit. 
 Siew rufescenti-brunnea, fere unicolor, in alarum tectricibus et scapulari- 
 bus fasciolis albis variegata ; fronte et superciliis albis; alarum 
 
 * See Reports of the Timor-laut Committee in Rep, Brit. Assoc, 1881, p. 197, 
 1882, p. 275, and 1883. 
 | 2a 2 
 
 SI moro wp 
 
306 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 rvemigibus terreno-brunneis, nigro transfasciatis ; snbtus dorso concolor, 
 mento albicante, ventre albo transfasciato ; tarsis, omnino plumosis, cum 
 suhalaribus rufis unicoloribus ; alarum et caude pagina inferiore pallide 
 corylino-brunnea nigro regulariter transfasciata; rostri nigri apice 
 Jlavicante; digitis fuscis setis obtectis: long. tota 11:0, ale 7-4, caude 
 4:5, tarsi 1°38. 
 
 Hab. Lutur, Timor-laut. 
 
 Obs. Sp. quoad colores NV. hantu maxime affinis, sed facie alba fasciis 
 ventris albis, et alis subtus nigro vittatis diversa. 
 
 The single specimen of this Owl is a male, obtained at Lutur on 
 August 9, 1881. It is noted: Irides golden; bill pale cinereous; feet 
 pale yellow, covered with bristly hairs; soles of feet nearly orange.” 
 
 I have dedicated this apparently distinct species to its discoverer, 
 
 Mr. Henry O. Forbes, F.Z.S. 
 
 8. STrRIx SORORCULA, Sclater. 
 
 Supra terreno-fusca flavicante variegata, et punctis rotundis albis regulari- 
 ter aspersa; disco faciali amplo albo, margine nigricanti-brunneo 
 circumdato; macula anteoculari nigricante; remigibus fuscis, nigro 
 transfasciatis, in pogoniis externis fulvo maculatis et albido vermicu- 
 latis; cauda nigricante, teniis quinque fulvis transfasciata et albido 
 vermiculata ; subtus alba, preecipue in ventre maculis rotundis nigris 
 Julvo cinctis aspersa, subalaribus ventre concoloribus ; tarsis postice fere 
 omnino plumulis obtectis, antice digitos versus setis paucis obsitis ; 
 rostro et pedibus carneis: long. tota 11:5, ale 8°5, caude 3:5, tarsi 2°2. 
 
 flab. Larat, ins. Tenimberensem. 
 
 Obs. Species nove-hollandie affinis et ejusdem forme, sed crassitie 
 valde minore, tarsorum plumis brevioribus et dorsi punctis rotundiori- 
 bus distinguenda. 
 
 Mr. Sharpe, who has kindly examined the single skin of this Owl sent, 
 is of opinion that it belongs to a species allied to Strix nove-hollandie, 
 but easily recognisable by its inferior size. 
 
 The example was obtained on Larat on the 24th of September, 1882, 
 and is labelled :—‘‘ Female: irides dark brown; bill, legs, and feet flesh- 
 colour; legs covered with flesh-coloured bristles.” 
 
 II. Psrrract. 
 
 9. TANYGNATHUS SUBAFFINIS, Sclater. 
 
 Flavicanti-viridis, in pileo et capitis lateribus prasinus, in dorso sostico 
 ceruleo lavatus ; alis viridibus ; scapularium apicibus, campterio alari 
 extus et tectricum majorum marginibus ceruleis ; secundariorum tectri- 
 cibus flavo marginatis; cauda supra viridi, apice flavicante, subtus 
 obscure aurulenta ; subalaribus viridibus ceeruleo mixtis, alarum pagina 
 inferiore nigricante ; rostro ruberrimo ; pedibus nigris ; long. tota 13-0, 
 alee 9:5, caudee 6:0. 
 
 Hab. Larat, ins. Tenimberensem. 
 
 Obs. Species JT. affint maxime affinis, sed dorso flavicante viridi vix 
 
 ceruleo lavato, diversa. 
 
 The single specimen is a female, obtained in Larat on August 8, 1889. 
 
 ** Trides cream-yellow, with inner ring of pale gamboge.” 
 
 10. GEOFFROIUS KEIENSIS, Salvad. 
 G. timorlaoensis, Meyer, loc. cit. 
 The Geoffroius determined by Dr. Sclater to be G, keyensis (Saqy ) 
 has been elevated into a new species, G. timorlacensis by Dr. Meyer 
 
 
 
 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 307 
 
 
 
 He admits that the separation is based on very minute differences, 
 which, however, he believes will be found constant. ‘“ Geoffroius [timor- 
 laoensis|, G. keyensi, Salva., simillimus, sed minor et primariz extime 
 pogonio externo virescenti diversus.” On comparing the Timor-laut 
 birds with Ké specimens in the British Museum determined by Count 
 Salvadori, the case stands as follows:—Timor-laut skins vary from 
 240-290 millim., while G. keyensis (Salv.) ranges from 235-255 millim. 
 Length of wing in the former 165-170 millim., and in G. keyensis 
 (Salv.) 175-185 millim. The tail is shorter in G. timorlacensis than in 
 G. keyensis; while the tarsus agrees in both. In Timor-laut speci- 
 mens the external web of the outermost primary, where in the upper 
 portion the colour is blue, and in the lower green, exactly agrees 
 with a specimen from Ké, of the Challenger collection, determined as 
 G. keyensis by Salvadori. Both these are males. A female from Ké has 
 the same region of this feather blue throughout its length; while a 
 female from Timor-laut has a very narrow yellowish edge to the green- 
 blue margin of the primary. A female obtained by the Challenger natu- 
 ralists, also determined by Salvadori as G. keyensis, is identical in colo- | 
 ration, while, lastly, the colour of the under surfaces of the wings can 
 scarcely be detected to differ. It would appear, therefore, so far as the 
 skins from Timor-laut and Ké, in the British Museum and in my own 
 collection, afford material for forming an opinion, that these differential 
 characters will not be found to have the constancy that Dr. Meyer has 
 expected. The wing measurements certainly are less in Timor-laut 
 specimens. It is probable that the differences in coloration are due 
 to age only, and are not sufficient to separate the Ké from the Tenimber 
 birds. [H. O. F.] 
 
 11. EcLECTUS RIEDELI, Meyer, P. Z. 8. 1881, p. 917. Sclater, loc. cit. 
 Pl, XXVI. 
 
 Dr. A. B, Meyer has accurately described the female of this fine 
 species. 
 
 All the green skins are marked “ ¢,” and all the red “9.” The male 
 not yet having been described, I give short diagnoses of both sexes. 
 
 $. Lexte viridis, capite clariore, subcaudalibus flavicante tinctus; sub- 
 alaribus et hypochondriis coccineis ; campterio alari et remigum prima- 
 riorum marginibus externis et secundariorum (extus dorso concolorum) 
 apicibus cexruleis ; alarum pagina inferiore nigra; cauda supra viridi 
 dorso concolori, subtus nigra, apice plus quam semipollicart abrupte 
 flavo ; rectrice una utrinque extima in pogonio exteriore ceruleo notato ; 
 rostro superiore rubro, apice fluvicante; inferiore nigro: long. tota 
 11°8, ale 8°7, caudz 4:6. 
 
 Q. Rubro punicea, capite et corpore subtus coccineis ; crisso flavo ; camp- 
 terio alari et remigum primariorum marginibus externis ceruleis; cauda 
 supra ad basin viridi in rubrum transeunte, ad apicem late flava, subtus 
 flava ad basin nigricante ; rostro niyro; crassitie paulo minore. 
 
 Hab. insulus Tenimberenses. 
 
 Of the four skins in the present collection, two males (green) are from 
 
 Larat, and one male and one female from Lutur. 
 
 As I have remarked (P. Z. 8. 1883, p. 49), there can be no longer any doubt 
 that Eclectus riedeli is quite a distinct species of the genus, characterised 
 by the broad well-defined yellow tail-end of the male, and by the absence 
 of the blue on the back of the neck and on the belly in the female. 
 Neglecting /. westermanni and Eclectus cornelia, of which we do not know 
 
358 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 the opposite sexes or the localities, we are now acquainted with both 
 sexes and the patrize of four species of these anomalous Parrots, dis- 
 tributed as follows :— 
 
 (1) E. pectoralis (Salvad. op. cit. p. 197), of New Guinea and the Aru 
 and Ké islands, extending to New Britain, New Ireland, and the Solomon 
 Islands. 
 
 (2) E. roratus (Salvad. p. 206), of the island group of Halmahera, 7.e. 
 Halmahera, Ternate, Batchian, Morty, and Obi. 
 
 (3) £. cardinalis (Salvad. p. 210), of the island group of Ceram, “.e. 
 Ceram, Amboina, and Boru. 
 
 (4) L. riedeli, of the Tenimber group. 
 
 The males of these four species are very similar in colouring; but with 
 the help of Dr. Salvadori’s diagnosis of the first three we may separate 
 them as follows: 
 
 A. Majores: cauda supra ceruleo variegata. 
 Cauda minus cerulea . 2 ; ; : . (1) pectoralis. 
 Cauda magis ceerulea . . : , (2) roratus. 
 B. Minores: cauda supra viridi, subtus nigra. 
 Cauda apice angusto flavicante . af ee . (8) cardinalis. 
 Caudee fascia apicali distincte flava : , . (4) riedels. 
 
 The female of /. riedeli, as already mentioned, is very easily distin- 
 guished from the same sex of the first three species by the absence of 
 the blue neck-band and of the blue on the abdomen. As regards its 
 yellow under tail-coverts and yellow tail-end, it comes nearest to ZF. 
 roratus. 
 
 12. Eos RETICULATA, S. Miill. 
 
 13. NEOPSITTACUS EUTELES, T. 
 
 14. CACATUA SANGUINEA, Gould. 
 
 To my great surprise this Cucutua is not C. citrinocristata, as I had 
 suspected. The original specimens of C. sanguinea were obtained at Port 
 Essington in N. Australia; so that its occurrence in the Timor-laut group 
 is not after all so very remarkable. 
 
 Ill. Picartz. 
 
 15. SAUROPATIS CHLORIS, Bodd. 
 16. S. AUSTRALASIZ and var. MINoR, Meyer, n. var. 
 17. S. sancta, V. & H. 
 
 IV. PASSERES. 
 
 18. PrEzoRHYNCHUS CASTUS, Sclater. 
 
 Monarcha castus, Scl. P. Z. 8. 1888, loc. sup. cit. 
 
 Supra niger ; pileo et regione auriculari albis, fronte et tenta nucham 
 cingente nigris circwmdatis; dorso summo tenice nuchali proximo, 
 uropygio et tectricibus alarum minoribus cum scapularium marginibus 
 externis albis ; subtus albus, gutture nigro, maculis tribus albis ornato ; 
 cauda alba, rectricibus tribus externis albo late terminatis ; subalaribus 
 et remigum pogoniis internis albis ; rostri plumbei tomiis albicantibus ; 
 pedibus plumbeis: long. tota 5°7, alee 2°7, caudce 2°8. 
 
 Hab. Lutur, Timor-laut. 
 
 Vbs. Affinis MW. leucot’, sed gula nigra distinctus. 
 
 The single example is marked “Male: irides reddish brown; bill 
 lavender; legs and feet ditto; September 1882.” 
 
= oo SEM TIMOR-LAUP. 359 
 
 
 
 HETERANAX Sharpe, gen. nov. (érepos = alter, dvaé=rex) is closely allied 
 to the Australian genus Sizwra; but the bill is narrower, less flattened 
 and strongly compressed, so that it is higher than broad at the notrils. 
 
 19. HetTerRANAXx MUNDUS, Sclater. 
 Monarcha mundus, Scl. P. Z. 8., 1883, loc. cit. pl. ‘ 
 Supra obscure cinereus, fronte lato, capitis lateribus et tectricibus alarum 
  totis nigris; subtus albus, mento et plaga : 
 gule media nigris; cauda nigra, rectricum 
 quatuor lateraliwm apicibus latis albis ; 
 subalaribus alb's, remigum pagina inferiore 
 cinerea; rostro compresso, colore plumbeo, 
 gonyde ascendente; pedibus nigris ; long. 
 tota 6:0, alee 3°2, caudee 2°7. | 
 . Hab. Ins. Tenimberenses, Larat et Yamdena. £ 
 This species seems to be allied to M. moro- fim 
 tensis, M. bernsteini and M. nigrimentum, but 
 
 
 
 UPPER SURFACE UPPER SURFACE 
 
 has an unusually compressed bill, of which oath OF aw Hitt oF 
 
 the gonys is slightly curved upwards. wii daik Pease 
 
 - 20. Monarcua nitipvs, Salvadori. (WITH PERMISSION OF COUNCIL 
 21. RurpipuRA HAMADRYAS, Sclater. OF ZOOL. SOC.) 
 
 Supra castanea, in capite postico et cervice magis fuscescens, fronte dorso 
 concolore ; subtus pallide cervina, torque gutturali nigro ; gula alba ; alis 
 caudaque nigricantibus, illis rufo anguste marginatis ; hujus rectricibus 
 externis cinerascente albo late terminatis ; rostro et pedibus nigris: long. 
 tota 5°7, alee 2°83, caudce 3°2. 
 
 FHlab. Larat, ins. Tenimberensem. : 
 
 Obs. Proxima R. dryadi (Gould, B. N. G. pt. ii. pl. 11), sed cervice 
 
 postica rufescente nec fusca et alarum tectricibus rufo marginatis, 
 dignoscenda. 
 
 _ 22. RHIPIDURA FUSCO-RUFA, Sclater. 
 
 Supra obscure terreno-fusca, in dorso rufescenti tincta ; alis niygricantibus, 
 tectricum minorum apicibus et secundariorum marginibus externis late 
 rufis; subtus rufa, mento et gutture toto ad medium pectus albis ; sub- 
 alaribus rufis; remigum marginibus internis fulvis ; caude nigricantis 
 rectricibus tribus externis totis et paris proximi apicib.s rufis ; rostro et 
 pedibus nigris. Long. tota 7:0, ale 3:3, caude 3°4. 
 
 Q. Mari similis. 
 
 Hab. insulas Tenimberenses Larat, Molu et Lutur. 
 
 Obs. Sp. rostro robusta lato, cauda parum graduata fusco et rufo 
 bipartita insignis. 
 
 There are 14 specimens of this apparently new and very distinct 
 Rhipidura in the collection, from the three localities above mentioned. 
 The irides are marked “ dark brown,” and the legs and feet “ black.” 
 
 The bill is broad and robust, and the rectrices but slightly graduated, 
 the external being only about 0:4 inch shorter than the middle pair; so 
 that the species would appear to come in the same division as Nos. 12 
 and 13 of Count Salvadort’s list. 
 
 23. RHIPIDURA OPISTHERYTHRA, Sclater. 
 
 Supra cinerasceo-fusca, dorso postico castaneo-rufa ; loris albidis ; alarum 
 nigricantium marginibus externis rufescentibus ; subtus pallide fulva, 
 gutture albo, crisso castaneo, hypochondriis rufescenti lavatis ; caucdece 
 elongate et valde graduate rectricibus rufescentibus, supra castaneo extus 
 marginatis ; rostro superiore nigro, inferiore ad basin et pedibus pallidis : 
 
 long. tota 6°7, ale 3°4, caudee rectr. med. 3°8, ext. 2°5, tarsi 09. 
 
360 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Hab, Insulas Tenimberenses Larat et Maru. 
 
 Obs. Sp. gutture albo et dorso postico et crisso castaneis, sicut videtur, 
 facile dignoscendo, 
 
 The two specimens of this species in the collection are both marked as 
 @ ; but the male would probably not differ in coloration. “ Irides dark 
 brown; upper mandible sooty brown, lower mandible same at top, but 
 pale flesh colour at base; feet lavender pink.” 
 
 This species belongs to the section with small bill, and the tail- 
 feathers much graduated, the outer pair being 1:3 in. shorter than the 
 middle pair. Below, the tail is pale, rufous, the inner webs of the 
 rectrices passing into blackish. Above, the outer tail-feathers are 
 margined externally at their bases with the chestnut-red of the rump. 
 
 24, MYIAGRA FULVIVENTRIS, Sclater. 
 
 Supra plumbea, capite et dorso nitore ceruleo tinctis ; alis et cauda fusco- 
 nigricantibus ; subtus saturate castaneo-rufa, abdomine et subalaribus 
 fulvis ; remigum marginibus interioribus albicantibus ; rostro et pedibus 
 nigris: long. tota 5°8, alee 2°7, caudce 2°7. 
 
 Hab. Larat, ins. Tenimberensem. 
 
 Obs. Proxima WM, rufigule ex Timor, sed ventre et subalaribus fulvis 
 
 distinguenda. 
 
 “Trides dark brown, bill lavender-blue, legs and feet black:” The 
 
 type was obtained in Larat on August 2nd, 1882; and others later. 
 
 25. Mick@cA HEMIXANTHA, Sclater. 
 
 Supra flavicanti-olivacea ; alis caudaque fuscis dorsi colore marginatis, 
 loris et linea superciliari obsoleta flavidis; macula auriculari fusca ; 
 subtus flava, remigum marginibus internis albidis ; subalaribus flavis ; 
 rostri fusci mandibula inferiore pallida ; pedibus nigris: long. tota 4°8 
 alee 2°9, caudee 2:1, 
 
 flab, Larat et Lutur. 
 
 Obs. Species Pecilodryadi papuane, quoad colores, fere similis, sed, ut 
 
 videtur, generi Micreece apponenda. 
 
 _ 26. ARTAMIDES UNIMODUS, Sclater. 
 Graucalus unimodus, P. Z. 8. 1888, p. 55, 
 
 The collection contained two males and three females of this species, 
 The sexes are not quite similar, as will be seen from the subjoined 
 diagnoses. | 
 
 & Cinereus ; fronte, loris et capitis lateribus cum gutture toto ad medium 
 
 pectus ceneo-nigris ; alis et cauda nigris illis cinereo extus marginatis ; 
 subalaribus pallide isabellinis; remigum pagina inferiore albicanti- 
 cinerea ; rostro et pedibus nigris: long. tota 13°5, ale, 7°3, caude 6:5, 
 tarsi 1°3, 
 
 Q Mari similis, sed paulum obscurior et colore nigro nist in loris carens ; 
 
 crassitie paulo minore. 
 
 Hab, Larat, ins. Tenimberensem. 
 
 Obs. Species Graucalo ceruleo-griseo affinis, sed colore corporis cineras- 
 centiore et remigibus intus non albis distinguenda. 
 
 27. A. TIMORLAOENSIS, Meyer, in ‘ Zeit. f. die Ges. Ornith.’ 1884, p. 10. 
 
 28. GRAUCALUS MELANOPS, V. & H. 
 
 29. LALAGE masTA, Sclater. 
 
 Supra sericeo-nigra ; superciliis brevibus et uropygio albis; alis nigris, 
 tectricibus minoribus et majoribus et secundariis albo late terminatis ; 
 corpore subtus, subalaribus et remigum pogoniis internis ad basin omnino 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 361 
 
 albis ; cauda nigra, rectricibus duabus externis albo terminatis ; rostro et 
 pedibus nigris: long. tota 6°2, ale 3°7, caude 3°38. 
 flab, Inss. Tenimberenses. 
 
 Obs. Affinis L. atro-virenti et L. tricolori, sed superciliis curtis albis 
 ‘dividenda. 
 
 30. ARTAMUS LEUCOGASTER, Val. 
 
 A. musschenbroeki, Meyer, loc. sup. cit. 
 Hab. Larat, ins. Tenimberensem. 
 
 Artamus musschenbroeki, is the name proposed by Dr. Meyer for the 
 Timor-laut Wood-Swallow, which has been determined by Dr. Sclater as 
 A, leucogaster, Val. (P. Z. 8. 1883, pp. 51 and 200). Of the Artamus from 
 Dr. Meyer’s identical locality I have in my own collection three specimens. 
 I have examined carefully seventeen others from different localities, in the 
 very long series in the British Museum derived from Celebes, the Philip-— 
 pines, Sumatra, Java, Lombock, Flores, Timor, Batjian, Buru, Halmaheira, 
 Goram, Aru, Batanta, and from N. Australia. The speciesin the Dresden 
 Museum from the underlined localities are admitted by Dr. Meyer to 
 belong to A. leucogaster. It is impossible to separate my Timor-laut 
 skins from specimens collected in Zebu by the Challenger Expedition, 
 and determined by Lord Tweeddale (P. Z. 8., 1877, pp. 544-545). The 
 colour in both isabsolutely the same. Lord Tweeddale, however, remarks 
 on the difference of dress—“one in which the upper plumage is of a 
 light bluish and cinereous colour, the other where it is of a more smoky 
 brown and bluish ash. This does not seem to depend on sex; for one of 
 these examples (Zebu 362) is marked ¢, while I possess a Luzon example 
 exactly similar, which Dr. Meyer determined to be a @. The other Zebu 
 example (No. 370) is marked ?, and is in the paler bluish-grey attire.” 
 I feel satisfied, after examining the specimens in the British Museum and 
 in my own collection, that the difference in coloration is one due to age, 
 for in young birds, the plumage is lighter than in the adult state. Dr. 
 Meyer’s observation that the dark mantle reaches, in Timor-laut skins 
 only, just to the root of the tail, while in A. lewcogaster it overlaps by 
 about a centimetre, is, in as far as the series referred to enables an opinion 
 to be formed, one not sufficiently constant to support specific separation. 
 In several Timor-laut specimens examined, the dark plumage overlaps the 
 tail more than 1 centimetre, and even more than in others from different 
 parts of the Archipelago which have been hitherto recognised as 4. 
 leucogaster. In skins of A. leucogaster from Mysol and Macassar, the 
 mantle is just conterminous with the root of the tail. Really, however, 
 the absolute constancy of these measurements can be determined only with 
 accuracy in the flesh, for the way in which the skin is manipulated will 
 increase or diminish them by several centimetres. The same holds with 
 regard to another character given as differential—the greater amount, in 
 Timor-laut specimens, of white on the rump and upper tail-coverts. In 
 my own specimens the white on the rump varies from 22-31 millim. 
 in length, while in eight other skins from different regions of the 
 Archipelago the range is from 26-32 millim., giving in the latter indeed 
 a wider zone than in those from Timor-laut. In the long series of 
 British Museum skins, the white tips of all but the two middle tail-feathers, 
 another of Dr. Meyer’s differential characters, is quite inconstant. In 
 several Timor-laut skins not only these two tail feathers, but several 
 others of the remiges, are without a white band, while in some examples 
 it is even less than in undisputed A. leucogaster. In young birds the white 
 tips are very pronounced, not on the remiges only, but on the primaries 
 and secondaries of the wing also, The Philippine (Zebu) birds, already 
 
362 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 referred to, have the tips of the remiges quite as broad as in those from 
 Timor-laut. In a Lombock specimen (“ex Stevens”) the tips of all the 
 feathers are white; a Batanta and a New-Holland specimen have no white 
 tips at all; one from, Halmaheira and one from Buru (both from Mr. 
 Wallace’s collection) except in one feather, have no white on the remiges ; 
 yet all of them have been determined to be, and are undoubtedly A. 
 leucogaster (Val.) [H. O. F.] 
 
 31. DICRUROPSIS BRACTEATUS, Gould: 
 
 32. PACHYCEPHALA ARCTITORQUIS, Sclater, loc. cit, Pl. XIII. 
 P. kebirensis, Meyer, op. sup. cit. 
 P. riedelii, Meyer, op. sup. cit. 
 
 Supra cinerea, alis caudaque nigris cinereo limbatis, pileo nucha et capitis 
 lateribus nigris ; subtus alba, torque jugulari angusto nigro ; subalaribus 
 et remigum marginibus interioribus albis ; rostro et pedibus nigris : long. 
 tota 5°5, ale, 8°0, caude 2°2. Fem. Supra fusca, in pileo rufescens ; 
 alis nigris extus rufo limbatis ; subtus alba, obsolete nigro striata. 
 
 Hab. Larat, ins. Tenimberensem. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Dr. Meyer, in the paper referred to, has described two new species of 
 Pachycephala, whose names are given above as synonyms. If he is correct 
 in his determinations we have the curious fact that, notwithstanding my 
 more thorough examination of a wider field, which included the region 
 whence he obtained his birds, the whole series obtained by me contained 
 no females of P. arctitorquis and no males of P. riedelit (were Dr. Meyer’s 
 specimens sexed?); while those who made the collection examined by 
 Dr. Meyer, obtained in Babbar (an island at no great distance to the 
 W. of Yamdena) females of P. arctitorquis, and evidently no males (so 
 recognised by Dr. Meyer), and females of P. kebirensis (Meyer), with- 
 out one of its males. I daily saw the collections made in Timor-laut by 
 the Amboinese hunters making this collection, and I feel confident that 
 no species of Pachycephala—one of the groups I am particularly in- 
 terested in—was obtained by them which was not also in my collection. 
 After comparing Dr. Meyer’s descriptions with the long series I have 
 of this bird, nearly all of which Dr. Sclater had before him when writing 
 his original description, and which contains birds in almost every stage 
 of plumage, from the young bird to the fully adult, I have little hesita- 
 tion in affirming that P. arctitorquis, (@ Meyer), from Timor-laut and 
 Babbar, is but the immature male, and P. kebirensis (Meyer) the nearly 
 fully adult female of P. arctitorquis, in which the colour of the bird when 
 fully adult is black; while P. riedelii is a still younger female of the 
 same species. From this it would seem clear to me that P. arctitorquis, 
 Scl., occurs in Babbar also, for the examples before Dr. Meyer from that 
 island were young males and immature females, while from Timor-laut 
 he had adult males, immature males (¢, Meyer), and still younger 
 females (riedelii, Meyer). [H. O. F.] 
 
 33. P. FUsSCO-FLAVA, Sclater, loc. cit., Pl. XX VII.; Forbes, P. Z. S., 1883, 
 
 pl. 588, Pl. LITI. 
 
 Obs. Similis P. lewcogastro, sed torque angusto distinguenda. 
 
 The pair of these species were obtained in Larat, in the first week of 
 August 1882. The iris is marked “reddish brown” in the male, and 
 “ark brown” in the female; the feet “blue-black” in the male, and 
 “Javender-pink ” in the female. 
 
 3k. DicmUM FULGIDUM, Sclater. 
 (Figured in Gould’s ‘ Birds of New Guinea,’ part 16.) 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 363 
 
 Supra nitide purpurascenti-nigrum ; subtus albwm coccineo perfusum ; 
 hypochondriis olivaceo mixtis ; subalaribus et remigum pogoniis internis 
 albis ; rostro et pedibus nigris: long. tota 3°6, ale 2-0, caude 1:1. 
 
 Hab, Larat et Lutur. 
 
 Obs. Similis D. keiensi et D. ignicolli, sed ventre toto coccineo perfuso 
 
 distinctum. 
 
 There are two “ male” examples of this Diceewm in the present collection 
 
 —one from Larat (1.8.82) and one from Lutur (19.9.82). Both are 
 labelled, “ Irides dark brown; legs and feet black.” 
 
 35. MYZOMELA ANNABELLZ#, Sclater ; fiig. in Gould, ‘B. N. Guin.,’ Pt. 16. 
 
 Nigra; capite cum gutture toto undique et dorso postico coccineis ; ventre 
 medio et remigum marginibus externis strictissimis olivaceis ; subalaribus 
 et remigum pogoniis internis albis; rostro et pedibus nigris: long. tota 
 3°5, alee 2:0, caude 1°3. 
 
 Hab. Lutur, Timor-laut. 
 
 Obs. Sp. ad M. erythrocephalam et species huic affines adjungenda, 
 corpore coloris nigro et crassitie minore insignis. 
 
 The single specimen was obtained September 22nd at Lutu. It is 
 marked “ Male: irides dark brown: bill black; legs and feet dirty green.” 
 I have named it by, request of the discoverer, after his wife, who 
 accompanied him in his perilous travels. 
 
 36. STIGMATOPS SALVADORI, Meyer, op. cit. 
 Stigmatops squamata, Salvad. Sclater, P. Z. 8., 1883, p. 198. 
 Nectarinia sp. ine. Sclater, P. Z. 8., 1883, p. 51. 
 _ One of the most frequently met with birds. Feeds at the cocoanut flowers. 
 The [first instalment of the] collection contained two skins in bad condition 
 (marked “ ?”) which I thought might probably be referable to a female of 
 some species of Nectarinia. The [second instalment] comprehends nine 
 specimens of the same bird of both sexes. It is evidently a Melipliagine 
 bird of the genus Stigmatops, and, so far as I can tell, without actual 
 comparison with the types, inseparable from S. squamata of Salvadori. 
 This species was discovered by Rosenberg on Khor Island between the 
 Ké group and Ceram-laut, and may therefore probably also occur in the 
 Tenimber group from which Khor lies not very far north. 
 
 37. PHILEMON TIMORLAOENSIS, Meyer. 
 P. plumigenis, Sclater, P. Z. S., 1883, p. 199. 
 
 Philemon timorlacensis is the name proposed by Dr. Meyer for the 
 species designated P. plumigenis by Sclater (P. Z. 8., 1883, pp. 51 & 195). 
 The Timor-laut bird certainly differs from that from Ké, but the 
 differences are scarcely to be formulated in words. The Tenimber bird 
 seems intermediate between the Buru and Ké birds. Dr. Gadow, in the 
 9th vol. of the Cat. of Birds, has not separated the species, nor has Mr. 
 Sharpe, in the 16th part of Gould’s “ Birds of New Guinea,” though he 
 has expressed doubts as to their identity. [H. O. F.] 
 
 38. ZOSTEROPS GRISEIVENTRIS, Sclater. 
 
 Supra lete viridis, annulo periophthalmico distincto a/bo ; alis caudaque 
 nigricantibus viridi limbatis ; subtus pallide grisea, in ventre medio 
 albicantior, gula et crisso flavis; subalaribus et remigum marginibus 
 internis albis, campterio flavido ; rostro pallide corneo, pedibus pallide 
 JSuscis ; long. tota 4°7, alee 2°5, caudee 1°7. 
 
 Hab. Uarat, Lutur, et Molu insulas Tenimberenses. 
 
 There are sixteen specimens of this apparently new Zosterops in the 
 
 
 
364 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 present collection, obtained at various dates in the localities above 
 mentioned. The irides are noted as “ reddish brown.” 
 
 The species belongs to the group of Z. albiventris ; but appears to be 
 distinguishable by its greyish abdomen, which is only whiter in the 
 middle line. 
 
 39. GERYGONE DORSALIS, Sclater. 
 
 Supra brunnescenti-castanea, alis caudaque nigris dorsi colore limbatis, 
 pileo et nucha murino-brunneis ; subtus alba, hypochondriis rufescente 
 lavatis ; subalaribus albis; caude rectricibus subtus in pogoniis 
 interioribus nigricantibus macula versus apicem alba preeditis ; rostro et 
 pedibus nigris: long. tota 4:0, ale 271, caudee 1°6, tarsi 0°8. 
 
 @. Mari similis. ; 
 
 Hab, Larat, Lutur et Molu, insulas 'Tenimberenses. 
 
 I was rather uncertain as to the correct position of this little bird, 
 which is quite distinct from anything that I am acquainted with; but 
 Count Salvadori, to whom I have sent a skin for examination, kindly tells 
 me it is a Gerygone. The bill is rather compressed, and the tarsi are long 
 and slender. ‘The third, fourth, fifth, and sixth primaries are nearly 
 equal and longest. The irides are noted as black. 
 
 40. ORIOLUS DECIPIENS, Sclater. 
 
 Memeta decipiens, Scl. P. Z. S., 1883. 
 
 Fuscus fere, unicolor, superciliis albidis, pileo nigricanti striolato ; subtus 
 paulo dilutior, gutture et cervice antica albis, preecipue ad latera nigro 
 guttulatis; pectoris summi plumis quibusdam nigricanti striolatis ; 
 regione auriculari nigricante ; rostro et pedibus nigris: long. tota 11°8, 
 alee 6°5, caudce 5:0, 
 
 Hab. Larat, insulam Tenimberensem. 
 
 Obs. Similis M. bowroensi, sed gula albida nigro transversim guttulata 
 
 et pectoris summi plumis nigricanti striolatis distinguendus. 
 
 Two specimens of this Mimeta, marked “irides dark brown,” are in the 
 collection. They so closely resemble Philemon plumigenis in general 
 appearance, that I had at first marked them as of that species. C7. 
 Wallace, P. Z. S., 1863, p. 26, on a similar case of mimicry in another 
 species of this genus. 
 
 41. GrocIcHLA MACHIKI, H. O. Forbes. 
 
 Geocichla sp. inc., Sclater, P. Z. S., 1888, loc. sup. cit. 
 
 The species of Geocich/a is an adult male, intermediate between Geocichla 
 rubiginosa from Timor and G. erythronota from Celebes. The general 
 colour of the upper parts is olive-brown, shading into slaty brown on the 
 head and into chestnut on the rump and upper tail-coverts; lores white, 
 ear-coverts mottled white and slaty-brown; wings brown; lesser wing- 
 coverts olive-brown, broadly tipped with white; innermost secondaries 
 russet-brown, obscurely tipped with white; tail-feathers russet-brown, 
 the outer feathers on each side broadly tipped with dull white; chin, 
 throat, and breast buffish white, the rest of the under parts white, the 
 feathers on the flanks broadly tipped with crescentic spots of black ; 
 axillaries—basal half white, terminal half black; under wing+coverts— 
 basal half brown, terminal half white; basal halt of inner web of 
 secondaries and basal portion of many of the primaries white; upper 
 mandible sooty grey, lower yellow; irides ash-brown; legs, feet, and claws 
 pale flesh-colour. Wing, 43 inches, tail 3°2, culmen 1°05, tarsus 1-4. (No. 
 in collection 588 g.) 
 
 I propose that this new species should bear the name G. machiki, as a 
 small mark of remembrance of Dr. Julius Machik, of Buda Pesth, Surgeon- 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 365 
 
 Captain in the Dutch Army, and of appreciation of his extreme kindness 
 and hospitality, and of the greatest possible assistance rendered by him 
 to me in Sumatra, and more especially in Amboina to my wife and myself, 
 both before and after our return from the Tenimber Islands. Dr. Machik 
 is well known in the Archipelago for his extensive collections of Molusca 
 fishes, snakes, and insects. [H. O. F.] 
 
 42. GEOCICHLA SCHISTACEA, Meyer, op. cit. 
 
 43. Pirra vicorsttr, Ged. fide Meyer. 
 
 44. MuniA Mouucos, L. 
 
 45. ERYTHRURA TRICHROA, Kittl. 
 
 46. CALORNIS GULARIS, G. R. Gr. 
 C. metallica, Sclater, P: Z. 8. loc. sup. cit. 
 C. circwmscripta, Meyer, op. sup. cit. 
 
 The species of Calornis from the Tenimber Islands has been distin- 
 guished from C. metallica as a new species, C. circumscripta by Dr. Meyer. 
 I have a large series of skins in my collection, and that they belong to a 
 species distinct from C. metallica is undoubted, and, as Dr. Meyer observes, 
 they can, when mixed up with any number of species of Calornis, be un- 
 hesitatingly picked out by the coloration of the throat. The throat-plumes 
 in C. metallica are prominently longer and more mucronate than those in 
 the Timor-laut specimens. The violet of the mantle, however, contrary 
 to the note of Dr. Meyer, has the blue-green reflexions observable in U. 
 metallica quite distinct in most of my specimens, if the eye be “ placed 
 between the bird and the light” in position A, as described by Dr. Gadow 
 (P. Z. 8. 1882, p. 409), that is with “the eye and the light almost in a 
 level with the planes to be examined.” A species of Calornis discovered 
 by Mr. Wallace in Mysol (of which the type is in the British Museum) 
 was named (. gularis by G. R. Gray; but was considered by Count 
 Salvadori (the label bearing the name in his handwriting) as C. metallica, 
 while it remained unique. After comparison of this skin with Timor- 
 laut specimens, the two are unquestionably identical. C. circumscripta 
 (Meyer) must, therefore, be considered henceforth a synonym of C. gularis, 
 G. R. Gr., which must now be removed from being a synonym of C. 
 metallica to specific rank, confirming the opinion expressed in 1876 (‘ Ibis,’ 
 p. 46) by Mr. Bowdler Sharpe, who says: “I must pronounce this, 
 contrary to Lord Walden’s opinion, a very good species, distinguished by 
 its purple throat and small bill, the culmen only measuring °65 inch, as 
 against °85 in C. viridescens.” This measurement is not the only one by 
 which the species can be distinguished, for the plumage in every specimen 
 is so constant that the skins cannot easily be confounded with any other. 
 CO. gularis is slightly less, and more brightly metallic—a more beautiful 
 bird, in my opinion, even than the true C. metallica; the purple of the 
 throat, which is more chastely and delicately feathered than in C. 
 metallica, is separated from the purple of the back and upper breast by a 
 narrow and very bright green band. The total length of the bird in 14 
 specimens ranged from 210-250 millim. Count Salvadori (P. Z. S., 1878, 
 p. 89) remarks: “Some specimens (of C. metallica) have the throat more 
 purplish than others, one from Mysol (C. gularis, Gray) cannot be 
 separated from others from Halmaheira and Cape York.” I have not seen 
 any Halmaheira specimens; but the Cape-York bird undoubtedly differs 
 by the purple on the breast, which is green in C. gularis ; the green neck- 
 band is much broader, and the throat is more markedly green and with- 
 out purple. It has, I believe, been separated as C. purpurascens, Salv. 
 The Admiralty-Island Calornis is somewhat similar to C. gularis, but is at 
 
066 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 once distinguishable by the absence of purple on the back; the head is 
 purple ; and itis known as C? purpureiceps. [H. O. F.] 
 
 - 47. CALORNIS CRASSA, Sclater. 
 
 Obscure cineracea-viridis nitore chalybeo ; subtus, preecipue in ventre, paulo 
 magis cineracea ; alis caudaque nigris extus dorsi colore lavatis ; remigum 
 marginibus intertoribus fuliginosis; rostro et pedibus nigris; cauda 
 Jere cequali aut paulum rotundata: long. tota 7:3, ale 4:1, caude 2°8. 
 Fem. Supra cineracea, striis scaparum nigris variegata ; alis caudaque 
 JSusco nigris ; subtus alba nigro flammulata ; crassitie fere eadem. 
 
 fab. Warat, ins. Tenimberensem. 
 
 Obs. Species cauda fere equali, corpore crasso, rostro robusto et colore 
 
 maris uniformi notabilis. 
 
 Both male (August Ist) and female (August 8th) are marked “ Irides 
 
 dark brown; bill, legs, and feet black.” 
 
 48. Cet LATIROSTRIS, Meyer, op. sup. cit. 
 Corvus validissimus, Sclater, loc. cit. 
 49, Eurystomus paciricus, Lath. fide Meyer, op. sup. cit. 
 50. CAPRIMULGUS MACRURUS. Horsf. 
 51. HrrvUNDO JAVANICA, Sparrm. 
 
 V. COLUMBA. 
 
 52. PTrnopus WALLACHII, Gr. 
 53. D. LETTIENSIS, Schl. fide Meyer. 
 54. P. XANTHOGASTER, Wagl. 
 
 P. flavovirescens, Meyer, op. sup. cit. 
 
 The designation Ptilopus flavovirescens has been proposed by Dr. Meyer 
 for the Timor-laut Pigeon determined by Dr. Sclater as P. xwanthogaster 
 (Wagl.). The difference lies, he notes, in the “ Gelbgrinlichgraue” of the 
 head and neck. From a careful comparison of my own skins with those 
 in the British Museum, I feel confident that the differences observed by 
 Dr. Meyer will be found to be those due to age only. Very young birds 
 have a grey band over the forehead, and the rest of the head with the 
 neck and back nearly of the same shade of green; with advancing age we 
 find every shade of green and yellowish-green to Dr. Meyer’s “ Gelbgriin- 
 lichgraue.” The head of the fully adult bird is purplish-grey, each 
 feather having a pale yellow submarginal crescent across it. 
 
 Some of the skins obtained by me differ as to head and neck in no 
 respect from specimens brought by Mr. Wallace from Banda; others have 
 the head and neck of a grey colour tinctured with every shade through 
 green-blue to yellow, differing according to the age of the birds. I cannot 
 detect in the specimens I have, any difference in breadth of the “ Gelb der 
 Kehle” as compared with Mr. Wallace’s specimens; nor is the breast shield 
 constantly of one shade in all the specimens I have examined. In the 
 Banda example (of Wallace) it is darker than any Timor-laut specimen 
 before me. In agreement with all those in the British Museum, my 
 Timor-laut specimens have the outer margin of the primaries and 
 secondaries as in Salvadori’s description, “ eee ”. (HORE 
 
 55. CARPOPHAGA CONCINNA, Wall. 
 
 56. C. ROSACEA, Temm. 
 
 57. MyRristicrvora BICOLOR, Scop. 
 
 58. MACROPYGIA TIMORLAOENSIS, Meyer, op. sup. cit. 
 Macropygia keiensis, Salv. 
 Macropygia sp. inc., Sclater, P. Z. S. 1883, loc. sup. cit. 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 367 
 
 
 
 59. SPILOPELIA TIGRINA, T. fide Meyer, op. sup. cit. 
 60. GEOPELIA MAUGEI, Temm. 
 61. CHALCOPHAPS CHRYSOCHLORA, Wael. 
 
 VI. GALLINZE. 
 
 62. MEGAPODIUS TENIMBERENSIS, Sclater. 
 
 Supra brunnescenti-olivaceus, in cervice magis cinereus, in dorso postico 
 magis brunnescens ; pileo subcristato interscapulio concolore ; subtus 
 cineraceus olivaceo tinctus ; capitis literalis et gule pelle rubra plumis 
 paucis obsita ; subalaribus ventre concoloribus ; rostro flavo ; tarsis antice 
 nigris postice rubris, digitis nigris ; long. tota 11°5 alc 9°6, caude 3:5, 
 tarsi 2°8. 
 
 Hab, Firinun et Lutur, ins. Tenimberensem. 
 
 Cbs. Species pedum colore ad M. geelvinkianum eorporis pictura magis 
 
 ad M. tumulum appropinquans. 
 
 There are two specimens of this apparently new Megapode in the collec- 
 tion. One from Lutur, Timor-laut, obtained September 22nd, is marked 
 “ Trides dark brown ; bill pale yellow; legs in front black, but front of 
 knees red, back of legs red; feet black.” The other, from Kirimun, is 
 labelled “Tris brown; bill pale yellow; legs and feet red.” But the 
 colours of these last-named parts, so far as can be told from the dry skins, 
 do not materially differ from those of the first specimen; and the two 
 birds agree in plumage, except that the specimen from the islet of Kirimun 
 is rather more reddish on the face. 
 
 VII. GRALLATORES. 
 
 63. ORTHORHAMPHUS MAGNIROSTRIS, Geoff, 
 64. OEDICNEMUS GRALLARIUS, Lath. 
 65. CHARADRIUS FULVUS, Gi. 
 
 66. ASGIALITIS GEOFFROYI, Wagl. 
 
 67. LoBIVANELLUS MILES, Bodd. 
 
 68. ToTANUS INCANUS, Gm. 
 
 69. NUMENIUS VARIEGATUS, Scop. 
 
 70. ARDEA SUMATRANA, Raffles. 
 
 71. A. NOVH-HOLLANDIA, Loth. 
 
 72. HERODIAS ALBA, L. 
 
 73. DEMIGRETTA SACRA, Gin. 
 
 74, NycTICORAX CALEDONICUS, Gm. 
 
 75. PORPHYRIO MELANOPTERUS, Temm. 
 
 VIII. NATATORES. 
 
 76. NETTAPUS PULCHELLUS, Gould, 
 
 77. DENDROCYGNA GuTTATA, Miill. 
 
 78. TADORNA RADJAH, Garn. 
 
 79. SvERNA MELANAUCHEN, T. 
 
 80. ONYCHOPRION ANHISTHETUS, Scop. 
 
 Dr. Sclater concludes his paper with the following remarks, which I 
 reproduce, as the recent discoveries of Mr. Riedel’s collectors have not 
 materially modified the conclusions arrived at by the writer in 1884: 
 “T will say a few words concerning the general character of the avifauna 
 of the Tenimber Islands so far as it is indicated by this collection. It 
 is quite evident that the prevailing facies of this ornis is, as might have 
 been expected, predominantly Papuan. Of the species included in the 
 above-given list, 81 are mentioned in Salvadori’s work. Of the 24 new 
 
368 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 species discovered by Mr. Forbes all are of Papuan genera, and nearly 
 allied to known Papuan species except the Strix, which appears to be a 
 diminutive form of an Australian type, and the Myiagra, which is nearest 
 to a Timor form; the Geocichla machiki is most nearly allied to a Timor 
 bird. There is also in the collection one other Timor bird, Hrythrura 
 tricolor, which is not found in New Guinea or the Moluccas. I think, 
 therefore, we may fairly say that the Tenimberese Avifauna is pre- 
 eminently Papuan, varied only by a slight element from Timor (repre- 
 sented by Erythrura tricolor, Myiagra fulviventris, and the Geocichla), and 
 by an Australian tinge shown by the Strix, and perhaps by Monarcha 
 nitidus being present (as in the Aru Islands) instead of M. chalybeo- 
 cephalus. 
 
 
 
 AUSTRALIA 
 
 SKETOH-MAP OF THE REGION, SHOWING THE GEOGRAPHICAL RELATIONS OF THE 
 TENIMBER GROUP, 
 (WITH THE KIND PERMISSION OF THE COUNCIL OF THE ANTHROPOLOGICAL 
 INSTITUTE. ) 
 
 That the Tenimber group would possess a certain number of peculiar 
 endemic forms was also to be expected, from their isolated situation, and 
 the deep channel around them. Altogether these are 29 [now 30] in 
 number, namely the 27 [28] species above described as new, and two 
 Parrots (Hos reticulata and Kclectus riedeli) previously known.” [H. O. F.] 
 
 IV.—On the Collection of REPTILES and BATRACHIANS from the Timor-laut 
 Islands, formed by Mr. H. O. Forses. By G. A. BouLENGER, F.ZS. 
 
 (From Proc. Zool. Soc. London, June 5, 1883. Pl. XLI., XLII.) 
 
 The Reptiles and Batrachians collected by Mr. Forbes in the Timor- 
 laut Islands, and presented to the British Museum by the British As- 
 sociation, belong to seventeen species, which, with the exception of two 
 new to science, were already well known from different parts of the 
 Austro-Malayan sub-region. The two new species are a Lizard of the 
 Australian genus Lophognathus, Gray, and a Snake of the Indian genus 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 3€9 
 
 Simotes, D. & B. The latter is the most remarkable discovery, as no 
 species of this genus was known to occur eastwards of Java. 
 The foliowing is a list of the species collected :— 
 
 REPTILIA. 
 LACERTILIA, 
 
 GECKO VERTICILLATUS, Laur. 
 
 PERIPIA MUTILATA (Wiegm.). 
 
 VARANUS INDICcUS (Daud.). 
 
 ABLEPHARUS BOUTONII (Desj.) [A. peecilopleurus, Wiegm. ]. 
 
 EUPREPES RUFESCENS (Shaw). 
 
 . EUPREPES CYANURUS (Less.). 
 
 . LYGOSOMA SMARAGDINUM (Less. ). 
 
 . BRONCHOCELA MOLUCOANA (Less.). : 
 
 . LoPHOGNATHUS MACULILABRIS, Boul., sp.n.; P. Z. S. loc. sup. cit., 
 Pea LI, 
 
 Snout obtuse, as long as the distance between the orbit and the pos- 
 terior border of the ear. Nostril equally distant from the orbit and the 
 tip of the snout. Upper surface of head covered with very strongly 
 keeled scales. Dorsal scales small, the upper largest, strongly keeled, 
 all obliquely directed upwards. Gular and ventral scales strongly keeled, 
 the latter larger than the largest dorsal scales. No femoral or preanal 
 pores. Upper surfaces olive, with blackish transverse markings across 
 the back, tail, and limbs; upper surface of head with three obsolete 
 blackish transverse bands, separated by light lines; a broad blackish 
 band from orbit to tympanum, bordered inferiorly by a light band ex- 
 tending to above the fore limb; lips light-coloured, variegated with 
 blackish; lower surfaces whitish, dotted all over with blackish. 
 
 Two specimens; the largest measures :— 
 
 SO. 00 I> OH £9 BO Ps 
 
 millim. 
 
 Total length . ‘ : ‘ , : : ; . 888 
 From tip of snout to vent . : ; ‘ i ; : 298 
 
 ¥ a fore limb . : : : ; , 248 
 Length of head (to occiput) ; ; : ; : ee 
 Width of head . ; : ‘ : ; : ‘ aati. 
 Fore limb ; . : : : : ; ‘ oa. 46 
 Hind limb : ; ; : : ‘ ; ; =» Ot 
 Tail : : : ; : : : ; eae 
 
 OPHIDIA. 
 
 10. PyTHON RETICULATUS (Schn.). 
 
 11. Liasis AMETHYSTINUS (Schn.). 
 
 12. ENYGRUS CARINATUS (Schn.). 
 
 18. StmoTEs FoRBES!I, Bouleng, n. sp.; P. Z. S. loc. sup. cit. Pl. XLII. 
 
 Length of snout measuring twice the diameter of the eye. Nasal 
 divided; loreal slightly higher than broad; one pre- and two post- 
 oculars; temporals 1 + 2; seven upper labials, the third and fourth 
 entering the orbit; four inferior labials in contact with anterior chin- 
 shields; latter, hinder part three-fifths the length of anterior pair. The 
 portion of the rostral seen from above is as long as the suture between 
 the internasals and the prefrontals; latter considerably higher than 
 internasals. Frontal longer than its distance from the tip of the snout, 
 as long as parietals. Scales in 17 rows. Ventrals slightly keeled on the 
 sides, 155 or 165; anal entire; subcaudals 45. Upper surfaces greyish 
 
 2B 
 
370 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 brown, the borders of the scales darker; head with the ordinary sym- 
 metrical dark markings; the inner border of the seventh longitudinal 
 series of scales, counted on each side from the gastrosteges, darker, thus 
 forming two fine yertebral lines separated from each other by three rows 
 of scales; belly yellowish, each ventral shield with a brown spot near 
 the lateral edge, these spots more or less confluent into a dark streak, 
 separated from the dorsal brown colour by a pure yellowish streak of 
 equal width; in one of the two specimens the ventrals become gradually 
 entirely brown towards the posterior part of the body, except the lateral 
 outer streak, which remains pure yellowish. Head and body 303 centim. ; 
 tail 58 millim. 
 
 14. DENDROPHIS PUNCTULATUS (Gray). 
 
 15. CHRYSOPELEA RHODOPLEURON (Reinvw.). 
 
 BATRACHIA. 
 16. RANA PAPUA, Less. 
 
 V.—On the CoLEopTEROvsS Insrots collected by Mr. H. O. Fores in the 
 Timor-laut Islands. By Cuas. O. WATERHOUSE, F.Z.S. 
 
 (From Proce. Zool. Soc. London, April 1884, p. 218, Pl. XVI.) 
 
 The number of species of Coleoptera collected by Mr. Forbes in the 
 Timor-laut Islands is twenty-nine. Of these the following deserve 
 special notice on account of their geographical distribution :— 
 
 Ist. Diaphetes rugosus, a new genus and species of Staphylinidee, which 
 Mr. David Sharpe informs me he possesses from Java. 
 
 2nd. Cyphogastra angulicollis (from Larat), a species of Buprestide, only 
 previously known from Banda. 
 
 3rd. Cyphogastra splendens (from Maru), a new species closely allied to 
 the preceding. 
 
 Ath. Archetypus rugosus, a new species. This genus of Longicorns, of 
 which there was only one species previously known, occurs in Waigiou, 
 Dorey, and Aru. 
 
 5th. Pelargoderus rugosus. Another new Longicorn closely allied to P. 
 arouensis. 
 
 6th. Nemophas forbesii. A third new Longicorn nearly allied to N. grayi 
 from Amboina. 
 
 CARABID. 
 
 CATASCOPUS AMcNUS, Chaud. 
 
 Two specimens which may perhaps be merely varieties of this species. 
 They are, however, darker in colour than any in the British-Museum 
 collection, being of an obscure olive-geneous, shading into dark purple at 
 the sides of the elytra. 
 
 Hab. Maru. 
 
 STAPHYLINIDE. 
 DiApHeres, Waterhouse. 
 
 General characters of Staphylinus, but with the smaller than is usual in 
 that genus. Labial palpi robust, with three visible joints; the first and 
 second short, the apical one very large and cup-shaped. The maxilles 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. acl 
 
 
 
 are very broad, the inner lobe a little longer than broad and densely 
 covered with hair; the outer lobe produced a little beyond the inner one, 
 the apex with dense matted hair, with four or five stiff bristles on the 
 outer side. Basal joint of the maxillary palpi short; the second and third 
 stout, about twice as long as broad, narrowed at the base: the apical 
 joint narrower than the preceding, acuminate at the apex. The labrum 
 about twice as long as broad, membranous, the middle of the front 
 margin very deeply incised, fringed with stiff hair, and with some long 
 stiff bristles arising from behind the margin. The anterior angles of the 
 thorax are very much directed downwards and are rather obtuse, and are 
 not visible when viewing the insect from above, in which position the 
 thorax has a nearly circular outline. The under reflexed shining margins 
 
 parallel as far as the front angles. Intermediate coxe slightly separated. 
 Tarsi rather slender. 
 
 DIAPH@TES RUGOSUS, Waterhouse. P. Z. S. loc. sup. cit. Pl. XVI. 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 Nearly black: sparingly clothed with pubescence, which is chiefly 
 brown, but on the shoulders of the elytra, the basal segment of the 
 abdomen, and the margin of the penultimate segment, and on the tibiee is 
 golden. Head, thorax, and elytra densely and very strengly punctured, 
 the punctures on the disk of the thorax having a tendency to run 
 together longitudinally. The punctuation of the abdomen is much less 
 strong and less close. Head a little broader than long, about two thirds 
 the width of the thorax; the cheek behind each eye is much less than the 
 length of the eye, the posterior angle rounded. Thorax rounded at the 
 sides and behind; in the middle of the base there is a short smooth spot. 
 Elytra as long as the thorax, but distinctly broader, with an indication 
 of a sutural stria. Legs pubescent, the middle tibie beset with small 
 blackish spines on the outer side. Length 6 lines. 
 
 Hab. Larat. ~ 
 
 PASSALIDA. 
 LEPTAULAX TIMORIENSIS, Perch. 
 
 The specimens in the British Museum Collection are from India, 
 Philippine Is., Java, Amboina, Celebes, &c. 
 Hab. Larat. 
 
 DYNASTIDA. 
 ORYCTES RHINOCEROS, Linn. 
 Found in all the neighbouring islands. 
 Hab, Maru. 
 HoORONOTUS DEILOPHUS, Sharp. 
 
 This species was described from the Philippine Islands. The speci- 
 mens found by Mr. Forbes are small males, but do not differ materially 
 from the Philippine examples. 
 
 Hab. Maru and Larat. 
 
 BUPRESTIDZ. 
 
 CYPHOGASTRA ANGULICOLLIS, Deyr. 
 
 This species was described from Banda. The specimen before me from 
 Larat agrees well with examples from Banda, but the copper colour on 
 the suture of the elytra does not extend quite to the scutellum. 
 
 Pe OA STRA SPLENDENS, Waterhouse. P. Z. 8. loc. sup. cit. Pl. XVI. 
 ig. 2. 
 Very close to C. angulicollis, and of the same form, but with a different 
 
 pe ah 
 
372 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 distribution of colour. The thorax is bright coppery, with more or less 
 golden green on the disk. The elytra have the dorsal region very dark 
 steel-blue (appearing almost black); this blue colour making an elongate 
 triangular patch (common to both elytra), broadest at the base, and 
 narrowing posteriorly jerminates at about one-third from the apex; next 
 there is on each elytron a broad oblique coppery red stripe (margined on 
 its inner side by golden green), commencing on the shoulder, extending 
 to near the apex (where it touches the suture), but then turned suddenly 
 to the lateral margin of the elytron; the side of the elytron (from below 
 the shoulder to where it meets the turn of the coppery stripe) is dark 
 blue: the extreme apex is blue black. Length 172 lines. 
 Hab. Maru. 
 
 ELATERIDE. 
 
 ADELOCERA ciIncTA, Candéze. 
 
 The specimen before me agrees well with the description given (C. R. 
 Soc. Ent. Belg. 1878, p. lii) of this species from Sumatra. The allied 
 species has a wide range. 
 
 Hab. Maru. 
 
 BOSstTRICHIDA. 
 
 BostTRICHUS HQUALIS, Waterhouse. P. Z. S. loc. sup. cit. Pl. XVI. 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 Elongate, parallel, convex, shining; black, with the elytra and legs 
 obscure pitcby, antenne paler. Head densely and finely granular; the 
 epistoma less opaque, closely and finely punctured. Thorax with the 
 basal half parallel, very convex; the front half obliquely narrowed 
 anteriorly, sloping down, with six teeth on each margin, two anterior pair 
 slightly porrect, the space between them emarginate. The surface pos- 
 teriorly is marked with moderately large, deep punctures, which are 
 irregularly placed, the intervals irregularly and extremely finely and 
 rather sparingly punctured ; all the front part is asperate. ‘The posterior 
 angles very slightly conically produced and diverging. Elytra of the 
 same width as the thorax, scarcely broader posteriorly, very abruptly 
 deflexed at the apex; deeply and strongly punctured, the punctures 
 rather close together, placed irregularly near the suture, but having 
 towards the sides a tendency to form lines; the interspaces smooth and 
 shining, less than the diameter of the punctures (except here and there in 
 the longitudinal direction, when the intervals are equal to the diameter 
 of the punctures) ; at rather remote intervals very minute punctures may 
 be seen. At the upper part of the posterior declivity, on each elytron, 
 are two-short, scarcely noticeable coste; the extreme apex is slightly 
 reflexed, dull. The first joint of the club of the antenne is a little longer 
 than broad, the second as long as broad, the third elongate-ovate. The 
 anterior angles of the metasternum, and the metasternal epipleura are 
 densely and very finely granular. The abdomen is closely and fine punc- 
 tured, and very delicately pubescent. The tarsi are not very long as 
 compared with some of the species of this genus. Length 5 lines. 
 
 Hab. Maru. 
 
 TENEBRIONIDE 
 
 OPATRUM, Sp. 
 
 A species closely resembling the African O, micans, Germ., and perhaps 
 identical and introduced. 
 Hab, Maru. 
 
ING TIMOR-LACT, 379 
 
 
 
 BRADYMERUS, Sp. 
 
 A species of this difficult genus, which I am unable to determine. 
 Hab, Maru. 
 
 ToxICUM GAZELLA, Fabr. 
 The examples agree well with specimens of this species in the British 
 
 Museum from Malacca. 
 Hab. Maru. 
 TOXICUM QUADRICORNE, Fabr. 
 The specimens in the British Museum are from Penang, Java, 
 
 Philippine Is., and Borneo. 
 Hab, Maru. 
 
 AMARYGMUS, Sp. 
 
 A single species of this very difficult genus, which I cannot determine. 
 Hab. Maru. 
 
 PEDIRIS suBOPACUS, Waterhouse. P. Z.S. loc. sup. cit. 
 
 Closely allied to P. (Nyctobates) sulciger, Boisd., but less shining. 
 Entirely black; the head much more closely and rather more strongly 
 punctured than in P. sulciger, especially on the vertex. Thorax slightly © 
 shining only in the middle: the impression on each side of the middle 
 much less marked than in P. sulciger, the punctuation more distinct. 
 Elytra somewhat dull; the striz nearest to the suture very lightly im- 
 pressed (except at the extreme apex); the lateral ones deeper, but much 
 less so than in-P. sulciger; the first three interstices flat, the lateral ones 
 
 very slightly arched, much less than in P. sulciger. 
 ' Length 16 lines. 
 
 Hab. Maru. 
 CURCULIONID. 
 
 ORTHORRHINUS L&TUS, Saund. & Jekel. 
 
 The type of this species is from New Hebrides. 
 Hab. Maru. 
 
 SPHENOPHORUS OBSCURUS, Boisd. 
 
 A widely distributed species. 
 Hab. Larat. 
 PRIONIDE. 
 
 ARCHETYPUS CASTANEUS, Waterhouse. P. Z. S. loc. sup. cit. Pl. XVI. 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 Dark chestnut-brown, the head and mandibles inclined to black; the 
 legs and abdomen pitchy yellow. Mandibles nearly as long as the head, 
 very robust, convex, strongly punctured; on the inner side, and the 
 epistoma clothed with fulvous hair. Head shining above, dull at the 
 sides, with a longitudinal impressed line in the middle; with some 
 strong punctures above, rugose at the sides. Thorax wider than the 
 head ; as its broadest part (just before the anterior angles) a little more 
 than twice as broad as long, narrowed posteriorly, shining; the disk flat, 
 moderately strongly but not closely punctured, with a smooth spot in the 
 middle; the sides sloping down; the shining surface of the disk 
 continued down the side in a triangular shape to near the margin; the 
 rest. of the side impressed, dull and densely punctured. Scutellum 
 smooth. LElytra at the base a little broader than the base of the thorax, 
 gradually widened posteriorly for two-thirds their length, and then again 
 narrowed, the apex broad and obtusely rounded ; shining, strongly and 
 moderately closely punctured, except near the scutellum, where the 
 punctuation is very delicate. Hach elytron has a fine, slightly oblique 
 raised line about tne middle, commencing within the shoulder and not 
 
374 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 extending to the apex. Submentum very closely and very coarsely 
 rugose. 
 Length 163 lines. 
 Hab, Maru. 
 CERAMBYCIDZ. 
 
 PACHYDISSUS HOLOSERICEUS, Fabr. 
 
 Occurs in many of the neighbouring islands. 
 Hab, Maru. 
 
 DIATOMOCEPHALA BACHYMERUM, Pascoe. 
 The specimens of this species in the British Museum are from Celebes 
 and Waigiou. 
 Hab. Larat. 
 LAMIIDZ. 
 
 TMESISTERNUS GLAucUS, Pascoe ? 
 
 I am not sure of the identity of Mr. Forbes’s specimen with the species 
 described by Mr. Pascoe. It has more yellow colour on the abdomen. 
 Hab. Maru. 
 
 PELARGODERUS RUGOSUS, Waterhouse. P. Z. 8. loc. sup. cit. 
 
 Nearly black; head coarsely rugose, with sandy yellow pubescence 
 round and beneath the eyes. Basal joint of the antenns very rugose, 
 not much narrowed at its base. Thorax rugose, rather dull, with 
 scarcely any trace of lateral spine, sparingly pubescent: the pubescence 
 forming a narrow sandy line on each side of the middle. Elytra with 
 the basal half rather strongly punctured, those at the base generally 
 marked by a shining granule; the posterior half is more closely and 
 more rugosely punctured. The basal half and the sides are rather 
 closely marked with irregular small spots of sandy pubescence, but at 
 about one quarter from the base there is near the suture an oblique bare 
 patch. A Jittle behind the middle there is a rather large oblique bare 
 patch, which extends from the side to the suture; and behind this there 
 is a patch of pale sandy pubescence, not quite touching the side, but 
 reaching the suture and the apex. The apex of each elytron is obliquely 
 truncate, the outer angle obtuse. 
 
 Length 18 lines. 
 
 Hab. Larat. 
 
 This species is very close to P. arouensis, Th., but is more robust, much 
 more rugosely sculptured on the head and thorax ; and the basal joint of 
 the antennee is less narrowed at the base and more rugose. 
 
 NEMOPHAS FORBESI, Waterhouse. P. Z. 8. loc. sup. cit. Pl. XVI. 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 Black, with the elytra bright steel-blue; the thorax entirely clothed ~ 
 with sandy yellow pile; the elytra with numerous more or less inter- 
 rupted bands of reddish ochreous pubescence. 
 
 Length 17-20 lines. 
 
 This species is close to N. grayii, Pascoe, but has no trace of blue 
 colour in the head and antennez. ‘The thorax is entirely covered with the 
 yellow pile, with no black at the base. The bands of the elytra are 
 more numerous, generally about seven, and these are more irregular. 
 And lastly, the sterna, epimera, and the basal segments of the abdomen 
 are more or less clothed with reddish pubescence. 
 
 Hab. Maru and Larat. 
 
 BATOCERA RUBUS, Fabr., var. ? 
 
 The specimen from Larat is a little larger than B. rubus usually is, 
 and has the scutellum clothed with fulvous instead of white pubescence. 
 
O19 
 
 IN TIMOR-LAUT. 
 
 
 
 Coprtors Fusca, Oliv. ? 
 
 A single specimen from Maru which I cannot separate from oo 
 African C'. fusca and which is therefore doubtless introduced. 
 
 SYMPHYLETES PEDICORNIS, Fabr. 
 
 An Australian species introduced. 
 
 Hab, Maru. 
 
 PRAONETHA PLEURICAUSTA, Pascoe. 
 
 I can see no difference between the specimen brought by Mr. Forbes 
 and that described by Mr. Pascoe from Port Albany, N. Australia. 
 Hab, Maru. 
 
 CHRYSOMELID. 
 
 PHYLLOCHARIS CYANIPES, Fabr. 
 
 This species occurs in Australia, New Guinea, Buru, «&e. 
 Hab. Maru. 
 
 V.—On the LepiporTERA collected by Mr. H. O. Forses in the Islands of 
 Timor-laut. By ArtHur G. BurTuer F.LS., F.Z.S., &e. 
 
 (From Proc. Zool. Soc. London, June 1883, Pl. XX XVIII.) 
 
 Twenty-three species of Lepidoptera were obtained by Mr. Forbes in his 
 expedition to Timor-laut; one of these, however, is apparently a Micro- 
 Lepidopteron, so much rubbed and broken as to be unrecogisable; all 
 the Moths, in fact, are in very poor condition, forming a marked contrast 
 in this respect to the Butterflies, which are well preserved. 
 
 The following Table will give an idea of the geographical relations of 
 the named species in this collection :— 
 
 Species of 'Fimor-laut. 
 
 Chanapa sacerdos. 
 Calliploea visenda. 
 Salatura laratensis, 
 Hypolimnas forbesii. 
 Precis expansa. 
 Catochrysops patala. 
 Lampides elianus. 
 Delias timorensis. 
 Terias maroensis. 
 Terias laratensis. 
 Appias albina. 
 Appias clementina. 
 Belenois consanguis, 
 Papilio aberrans. 
 Papilio inopinatus, 
 Diludia casuarine ? 
 Ercheia dubia. 
 Lagoptera honesta. 
 Lyssidia goldiei. 
 
 Pinacia molybdeenalis. 
 
 Hymenia fascialis. 
 
 
 
 Nearest allied species, 
 
 Chanapa lewinii. 
 Calliploea hyems. 
 Salatura artenice. 
 
 Hypolimnas polymena, 
 
 Precis timorensis. 
 Catochrysops patala, 
 Lampides eelianus, 
 Delias timorensis. 
 Terias excavata. 
 Terias lifuana. 
 Appias albina, 
 Appias clementina, 
 Belenois pitys. 
 
 _ Papilio liris. 
 
 Papilio adrastus, 
 Diludia casuarinee. 
 Ercheia dubia. 
 Lagoptera honesta. 
 Lyssidia goldiei. 
 
 Pinacia molybdeenalis. 
 | Hymenia fascialis. 
 
 
 
 Typical locality of 
 the latter. 
 
 North Australia. 
 Timor. 
 
 Java. 
 
 Aru, 
 
 Timor. 
 
 Massuri. 
 
 East India. 
 Timor. 
 
 Kangra. 
 
 Lifu. 
 
 Amboina, 
 Amboina, 
 Timor, 
 
 Timor. 
 
 Banda, New Guinea. 
 Sydney. 
 Rockhampton. 
 East Indies. 
 New Guinea, 
 Batavia, 
 
 | Japan, 
 | 
 
376 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Catochrysops patala, Lampides clianus, Lagoptera honesta, and Hymenia 
 fascialis, which leaves us 5 Timor types, 3 Australian, 2 Amboina, 2 New 
 Guinea, 1 Aru, 1 Lifu, 2 Javan, 1 Indian. ‘The last of these, however, is 
 equally characteristic of the Malayan fauna, as also is that from Poly- 
 nvsia; these two forms, therefore, may be regarded as doubtful, which 
 will leave the relative proportions of the speci.s as follows :—Indo- 
 Malayan 2, Austro-Malayan 10, Australian 3. The only surprising 
 fact in this distribution is the preponderance of Timor over Aru or 
 New-Guinea forms, the species characteristic of that island being only 
 equalled by those from Aru, New-Guinea and Amboina combined. 
 
 RHOPALOCERA,. 
 NYMPHALID. 
 EUPL@INZ. 
 
 1. CHANAPA SACERDOS, Butler ; loc. sup. cit. Pl. XX XVIII. Fig. 7. 
 
 Nearly allied to C. lewinii of Australia; the wings much blacker, 
 the primaries of the male velvet-black, the white spots on the primaries 
 decidedly larger, the sericeous brand on the male of twice the length: 
 secondaries with the discal series of white spots more regular, nearer 
 to outer margin, and not notched as in C. lewinii; the submarginal 
 spots clearer and arranged more regularly. Expanse of wings, ¢78 mm., 
 9 71 mm. 
 
 Larat. 
 
 2. CALLIPLGA VISENDA, Butler; loc. sup. cit. Pl. XX XVIII. Fig. 1. 
 
 Allied to C. hyems (arisbe, Fld.) from Timor, but much darker; the 
 primaries are of the male velvet-black ; the white spots on the primaries 
 larger, especially the two last in the series, the last of all being the 
 largest spot in the series; submarginal dots wanting on the upper surface 
 of primaries, but present on the secondaries, which are not bordered 
 with pearl-white but with greyish brown; the discal spots forming a 
 sinuous white band well separated from the margin, somewhat as in the 
 preceding species; the usual whitish costa and cream-coloured sexual 
 patch. Expanse of wings, 64 mm. 
 
 Maru Island. 
 
 This is one of the prettiest species in the genus, and is doubtless a 
 copy of the preceding species. 
 
 3. SALATURA LARATENSIS, Butler; loc. sup. cit. Pl. XXX VIII. Fig. 5. 
 
 Allied to S. artenice, Cramer of Java; but the subapical white fascia 
 decidedly broader; no central white markings on the secondaries; the 
 veins on the under surface of these wings less distinctly bordered with 
 white. Expanse of wings 70-74. 
 
 Larat. 
 
 NYMPHALINZE. 
 
 4, HYPOLIMNAS FORBESII, Butler; loc. sup. cit. Pl. XXX VIII. Fig. 4. 
 
 @. Allied to H. polymena from Aru: velvet-black shot with purple; 
 primaries with the pattern of H/. velleda ¢, but darker, and with all the 
 white spots of double the size; the secondaries differ from HH. polymena 
 in having a series of hastate brown dashes along the internervular folds 
 from just beyond the middle of the broad cream-coloured external area, 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. StL 
 
 
 
 through the centre of which a series of white spots can be dimly seen. 
 Expanse of wings 80 mm. 
 
 Larat. 
 
 This is one of the most beautiful species in the genus; it bears a vague 
 resemblance to H, albula of Timor, which, however, belongs to the 
 HH, anomala group. 
 
 5. Precis EXPANSA, Butler. 
 
 6. Allied to P. timorensis of Wallace, from which, however, it differs 
 in its clearer fulvous colouring above, the blackish colouring of the external 
 area being confined to the apex, the paler coloration of the under surface, 
 its broader and less produced primaries, and the less pronounced caudal 
 angle to the secondaries. Wings above tawny, with black markings and 
 bluish-centred ocelli, as in P. ertyone of Java (Cramer, Pap. Exot. i. pl. 
 62. E, F), but the white markings of that species replaced by a slightly 
 paler tint of tawny than the ground colour; under surface as in P. erigone. 
 Expanse of wings 52-54 mm. 
 
 Larat. 
 
 Why the P. erigone group has been referred to Junonia and the 
 scarcely differing P. natalica to Precis it would, I think, be hard to 
 explain. VP. antigone and LP, natalica seem very closely allied species. 
 
 LYCHNIDA. 
 
 6. CATOCHRYSOPS PATALA. 
 Lycena patala, Kollar, Hiigel’s Kaschmir, iv. 2, p. 419 (1848). 
 ¢. Maru Island. 
 Does not differ from Indian specimens excepting in the slightly whiter 
 tint of the under surface. 
 
 7. LAMPIDES HLIANUS. 
 Hlesperia elianus, Fabricius, Ent. Syst. ii. 1, p. 280. n. 79 (1798). 
 Larat. 
 Does not differ from Indian specimens excepting in its slightly inferior 
 expanse of wings; in colouring and pattern it perfectly agrees. 
 
 PAPILIONIDZ. 
 PIERINZA. 
 
 8. DELIAS TIMORENSIS, Boisduval; loc. sup. cit. Pl. XX XVIII. Fig. 6. 
 Pieris timorensis, Boisduval, Sp. Gén. Lép. 1. p. 459. n. &0 (18386). 
 
 Larat. 
 
 Most nearly allied to D. vishnu of Moore from Java (with which species 
 it was associated by Wallace). It differs in its superior size, the 
 narrower black area of the upper surface, the deeply sinuated inner edge 
 of the black area on the primaries, the apical series of spots much 
 smaller, the fifth, as Boisduval says, “ trés petite et ponctiforme,”’ whereas 
 in D. vishnu this is the case with a sixth spot not present in D. timorensis : 
 primaries below with the basal pale area cuneiform (not angular), pure 
 lemon-yellow within and just below the cell, otherwise pearl-white (“la 
 base gris-blanchaétre saupoudrée de jaune pur,” Boisd.): secondaries with 
 only the basi-abdominal third* brilliant golden yellow; suffused at 
 
 * The carelessness of Boisduval’s description at this point probably misled 
 Wallace; he says :—‘‘ La moitié antérieure d’un beau jaune de chrome.” On 
 the other hand, the yellow of D. vishnw has a decidedly dull creamy appear- 
 ance, 
 
378 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 its inferior extremity with bright orange; the inner edge of this area 
 straight, not angulated as in D. vishnu; the submarginal red lunules 
 narrower, of a more carmine tint, the terminal one not expanded, further 
 from the outer margin, yet not touching the yellow area: there are in 
 fact, as Boisduval says, “sept lunules,’ and not six lunules and two 
 spots as in D, vishnu. 
 
 9, TERIAS MAROENSIS, Butler; loc. sup. cit. Pl. XX XVIII. Fig. 2. 
 
 ?. Nearly allied to 7. excavata of Moore, from India, but of a decidedly 
 deeper yellow (bright sulphur) than the female of that species: the inner 
 edge of the external border decidedly arched, convex, not concave, towards 
 the costa, the sinuation upon the median interspaces not so deep and 
 more oblique (as in 7. sari); the discal markings on the under surface of 
 secondaries less defined and arranged in a much less irregular series. 
 Expanse of wings 42 mm. 
 
 Maru Island. 
 
 10. TeRIAS LARATENSIS, Butler ; loc. sup. cit. Pl. XX XVIII. Fig. 3. 
 
 &. Nearly allied to 7. lifuana; above most like my “ Japanese 
 Terias,” fig. 10 (Trans. Ent. Soc. 1880, pl. vi.), but with less-pointed 
 primaries and narrower apical border; it, however, belongs to the T.- 
 cesiope group, the primaries below being marked with a curved series of 
 three subapical red-brown spots; other markings much as usual, all well 
 defined ; the discal series of secondaries forming a nearly straight line 
 between the first subcostal and second median branches. Expanse of 
 wings 39 mm. 
 
 Larat. 
 
 ll. APPIAS ALBINA. 
 Pieris albina, Boisduval, Sp. Gén. Lép. i. p. 480, n. 62 (1886). 
 ¢. Maru Island. 
 
 A small example; the species was originally described as from 
 Amboina. 
 
 12. APPIAS CLEMENTINA, Feld. 
 
 Pieris clementina, Felder, Sitzungsb. Ak. Wiss. Wien, math.-nat. Cl. xl. 
 p. 448 (1860); Reise der Nov., Lep. i*. p. 162, n. 183, pl. 25. Fig. 6 
 (1867). 
 
 é. Maru Island. 
 
 Originally described as from Amboina. 
 
 13. BELENOIS CONSANGUIS, Butler, loc. sup. cit. 
 
 Nearly allied to B. pitys from Timor, but a little smaller; the external 
 border of primaries with more oblique inner edge, much broader towards 
 the costa and without any trace of a subapical white spot: primaries 
 below white, suffused with sulphur-yellow at the base only; external 
 area black internally, but of a reddish clay-colour towards apex; its 
 inner edge much less irregular than in B. pitys, being sinuated only on 
 the lower radial and lower (or first) median interspaces: secondaries 
 saffron-yellow, the external border with purplish-black internal, and 
 reddish clay-coloured external half. Expanse of wings 48 mm. 
 
 Larat. 
 
 PAPILIONINA. 
 
 14, PAPILIO ABERRANS, Butler, loc. sup. cit. 
 
 Pattern and form of Papilio liris of Timor, which it greatly resembles 
 on the upper surface, but the pale area on the primaries is whiter, and 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 379 
 
 the submarginal spots on the secondaries sandy brown, instead of dull 
 red; the sides of the abdomen, front of head, anus, and lateral pectoral 
 stripe are ochreous instead of deep rose-red, and the submarginal spots 
 on the under surface of the secondaries are ochreous buff instead of rose- 
 red. Expanse of wings 108 mm. 
 
 $ 9. Larat. 
 
 ‘here were several examples of this species in Mr. Forbes’s collection, 
 clearly showing that the differences of coloration are constant. 
 
 15. PAPILio INOPINATUS, Butler, loc. sup. cit. 
 
 Allied to P. adrastus of Felder, from Ceram and N. Guinea; but the 
 male with a broad oblique subapical white belt, which does not quite 
 reach the outer margin and is cut by the black nervures; the fascia on 
 the secondaries narrower, formed more nearly as in the Australian 
 P. cegeus, with zigzag outer edge, but of more uniform width throughout 
 than in that species, and of a sordid cream-colour; a scarlet spot near 
 the anal angle, well separated from the central fascia. The female differs 
 in the whiter ard oblique belt across the primaries, the inner edge of 
 which is not so deeply zigzag, and therefore is not angulated as in the 
 allied species, and the outer half towards apex suffused with grey so as 
 greatly to reduce its width; secondaries with no trace of the central 
 white patch, the submarginal scarlet spot large, oblong, and notched in 
 front. Expanse of wings, ¢ 144 mm., ? 153 mm. 
 
 gé var. Wings shorter; the inner edge of the white band of primaries 
 impinged upon by the discoidal cell, which also encloses a spot of the 
 same colour as the band; the band of the secondaries broader, cutting 
 across the end of the cell. Expanse of wings 132 mm. 
 
 Maru Island. 
 
 HETEROCERA. 
 SPHINGIDA. 
 
 16. DILUDIA CASUARINZE ? Walk. 
 
 Macrosila casuarince, Walker, Lep. Het. viii. p. 210, n. 19 (1856). 
 Larat. Taken in Sagueir (palm-wine) bamboos. 
 The specimen is so much rubbed that it is impossible to be sure that 
 it is the same as the Australian species. 
 
 CATEPHIIDA. 
 
 17. ERcHEIA DuBIA, Butler. 
 
 Catephia dubia, Butler, Cist. Ent. i. p. 292 (1874). 
 Larat. 
 One worn example of this Australian species was obtained. 
 
 OPHIUSIDA. 
 
 18. LAGOPTERA HONESTA, Hib. 
 
 Thyas honesta, Hiibner, Samml. exot. Schmett. ii. Lep. iv., Noct. i11. 
 Semigeometre v., Meropides A. Festivee 1, figs. 1, 2 (1805). 
 2. luarat. 
 
 URANIID. 
 
 19. LyssipIA GoLpIEI, Druce. 
 Lyssidia goldiei, Druce, P. Z. 8. 1882, p. 781. 
 Larat. 
 
380 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 HyPNIDz. 
 20. PINACIA MOLYBDZNALIS, Hiib. 
 Pinacia molybdenalis, Hiibner. Samml. exot. Schmett., Zutr. p. 18, 
 n. 218, figs. 485, 486. 
 Larat. 
 Previously known from Java and Borneo. 
 
 ASOPIID. 
 
 21. HYMENIA FASCIALIS, Cram. 
 
 Phalena-Pyralis fascialis, Cramer, Pap. Fixob iv. pl. 398. O (1782). 
 Larat. 
 A fragment of this wide-ranging species was obtained. 
 
 BovTip1pz&. 
 22. Borys, sp. 
 
 A broken example of a species allied to B. gastralis, which it resembles 
 in size and coloration; the pattern, however, agrees better with B. 
 rosinalis, 
 
 Ritabel, Larat. 
 
 The specimen is not sufficiently perfect to name; it is chiefly interest- 
 ing for its resemblance to New-World types. 
 
 The only other Lepidopteron is unrecognisable, as previously men- 
 tioned; the veining of the wings reminds one of some Micro-Lepi- 
 dopteron. 
 
 VII.— On the Collectiin of HYMENOPTERA and DiptERA from the Timor-laut 
 Islands, formed by Mr. H. O. Forses. By W. F. Kirsy, Assistant in 
 the Zoological Department, British Museum. 
 
 (From the Proc. Zool. Soc. London, May, 18838, p. 343 et seqq.) 
 
 The small collection before me, consisting of only five species of 
 Hymenoptera (all new) and three of Diptera, was formed in two of the 
 smaller islands of the Timor-laut group, viz. Laratand Maru. Iwill now 
 proceed to describe the Hymenoptera and to notice the Diptera, merely 
 remarking that they exhibit strong affinities to those of the surrounding 
 groups of islands, as would naturally be anticipated beforehand. The 
 specimens are numbered; and I have noted these numbers throughout. 
 
 HYMENOPTERA ACULEATA. 
 APIDZ. 
 
 CROCISA CHIRULEIFRONS, Kirby., loc. cit. 
 
 Long. corp. 5 lin. 
 
 Female. Black, face and orbits (very broadly above) blue; prothorax 
 with a short stripe behind on each side above, and a very large spot on 
 the sides; mesothorax with seven blue spots—two small ones on the front 
 border, adjoining those on the prothorax, a longitudinal one between, 
 then two slightly oval ones near the middle, and a large irregular spot 
 behind on each side, projecting a branch forward within the very large 
 black tegule; scuttellum black, strongly excavated in the middle: 
 abdomen with the first segment blue, a narrow longitudinal line, the 
 greater part of the hind border, and a long transverse spot contiguous to 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 3d81 
 
 it black, the remaining segments of the abdomen are black, with a wide 
 blue stripe sloping slightly upwards on each side; legs black, all the 
 tibize with a wide blue stripe on the outside ; wings dark purplish brown. 
 (2128, Maru.) 
 
 Allied to C. nitidula, Fabr., a species common in Amboina, Australia, 
 &c., but apparently distinct. 
 
 XYLOCOPA FORBESII, Kirby, loc. cit. 
 
 Long. corp. 10 lin. 
 
 Male. Thickly clothed above with olive-green pubescence, as in the 
 male of X. wstwans, Linn., or of X. bryorum, Fabr.; antenne black above 
 and fulvous beneath, the hairs on the middle of the under surface of the 
 body, especially towards the tip, those on the lower part of the face, and 
 the very long hairs on the tarsi shading into fulvo-ferruginous: wings 
 brownish hyaline, with a slight violet shade, and marked on all the cells 
 along the hind margin with numerous black dots, as in the allied species : 
 proboscis black, probably reddish within and at the base when extended. 
 (1988, Layrat. ) 
 
 Female. Black, thickly clothed with black hairs, and very thickly and 
 finely punctured, except on the middle of the mesothorax, which is 
 smooth and shining, and has a short longitudinal furrow in front; head 
 clothed with bright yellow pubescence, that on the face thinner and 
 paler; wings with a bright green iridescence, purplish along the veins 
 towards the base; apical half of the antennze pale beneath; proboscis 
 mostly reddish; under surface of body thickly punctured, but with 
 some bare spaces along the middle line. (1958, Larat; 2019, Maru.) 
 
 Closely allied to X. coronata, Smith, from Kaioa; but in the female of 
 that species (which doubtless has a male similar to that of X. forbesi’) the 
 wings have a bright violet instead of a green iridescence. 
 
 VESPIDA, 
 
 : POLISTES EXTRANEUS, Kirby, loc. cit. 
 
 Long. corp. 5 lin. 
 
 Female. Head and thorax bright chestnut, clypeus penn aney bright 
 yellow; mandibles with a yellow mark on each side: antenne dull 
 yellow; the scape, second joint, and upper part of the third reddish; 
 prothorax narrowly edged with yellow in front and behind; scutellum 
 with a transverse yellow line; metathorax edged with yellow on the 
 sides; abdomen with the first joint yellow, with a broad red stripe, 
 bordered behind with black, extending for two-thirds of its length above, 
 second and third segments blackish brown, the third bordered with 
 yellow behind, the fourth yellow bordered with blackish brown in front 
 and behind, and the fifth and sixth dull reddish; wings brownish 
 hyaline, with reddish-brown nervures, yellow stigma, and brown borders. 
 (2025, Maru.) 
 
 Closely allied to P. stigma, Fabr. from India, Ceram, and Celebes. 
 
 ScoLiIp®. 
 
 DIELIS LARATENSIS, Kirby, loc. cit. 
 
 Long. corp. 103 lin. 
 
 Female. Black ; sides of thorax and abdomen, and legs clothed with 
 black hair; face black; clypeus very finely punctured above, and more 
 coarsely on its lower edge, and bordered at the sides and below with 
 yellow pubescence; mandibles pitchy; thorax and abdomen finely 
 punctured, much more densely than elsewhere on the sides of the abdo- 
 
382 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 men and on the four terminal segments, both above and below: thorax 
 and abdomen with strong steel-blue reflexions, especially on the basal 
 
 
 
 DIELIS LARATENSIS. (With the permission of the council of the 
 Zoological Society.) 
 
 half of the abdomen above; wings deep violet-brown, second recurrent 
 nervure incomplete, diverging from the first at the base and on the left 
 wing; the nervule connecting the recurrent nervures above the middle 
 is also obsolete. (1957, Larat.) 
 
 Much resembles the Australian Z'rielis anthracina, Burm., in appear- 
 ance. 
 
 CHRYSIDIDZ. 
 
 CHRYSIS MELANOPS, Kirby, loc. sup. cit. 
 
 Long. corp. 5 lin. 
 
 Male. Bright green, with a coppery reflection on the head and thorax 
 (very bright coppery red wherever abraded); punctures large, close 
 together, but not confluent; ocelli black, the space between and immedi- 
 ately around also blackish; apex of abdomen (and summit, when viewed 
 sideways) with a strong blue reflection; under surface of antenne, the 
 greater part of the hind legs, and the tips and under surface of the 
 middle tibiz and middle tarsi brown; abdomen sexdentate, with equal 
 and rather pointed teeth of moderate size; wings brown. (2049, 
 Maru.) 
 
 Probably allied to C. parallela, Brullé, from Timor; but that species 
 is varied with blue on the head and thorax, instead of with copper. 
 
 DIPTERA. 
 
 The only Diptera in the collection were Plecia fulvicollis, Wied., and 
 Laphria gloriosa, Walk., both of which are common species in the Eastern 
 Archipelago, and a Tabanus, possibly new, but in too bad condition to 
 describe. 
 
 
 
 VITI.—List of the Crustacea collected in the Timor-laut Islands by 
 Mr. H. O. Forses. Determined by E. J. Mrgrs, F.Z.S. 
 
 Pilumnus vespertilio, Fabr. ad. 9. 
 Neptunus pelagicus, Linn. 
 Thalamita crenata, Riippell, ad. 9, 
 

 
 IN TIMOR-LAUT. o8o 
 
 
 
 Ocypoda ceratophthalma, Pallas, ad. ¢. 
 Gelasmius vocans, Linn. ad. ¢. 
 
 fe tetragonon, Herbst, ad. ¢. 
 
 annulipes, M. Edw. ad. @. 
 Macrophthalmus pacificus, Dana, var. 
 Grapsus strigosus, Herbst, ad. @. 
 Pachygrapsus oceanicus, var. quadridentatus, Stimpson. 
 Cardisoma carnifex, Herbst, ad. 2%. 
 Myctiris longicarpus, Latr., ad. 2. 
 Coenobita rugosa, M. Edwards, ad. ¢. 
 Stenopus hispidus, Olivier, ad. 
 Pseudosquilla ciliata, Fabr. ad. 
 
 IX.— Vocabulary of Words used in the Ké Islands and in Ritabel, Larat, 
 
 Timor-laut Islands. Compiled by the AuTHoR. 
 
 
 
 Vocabulary. Ké Islands. Timor-laut (Larat). 
 Anchor .. Vatu. 
 Anchor, cord Warat 
 Anklets ~ Riti. 
 Ant Kirkim 
 Arm ° Arumud Vetit,wholearm,A liad. 
 Arm, fore .. Tanuvur. 
 Armlet of shell Sistoh. 
 Armlet of ivory .. ae Lela, 
 Ashes Knabun 
 Bad Sisian Sian. 
 Bamboo Temar Temar. 
 Banana Miiu.. Mou. ° 
 Bat.. fs Yabar. 
 Batatas (sweet potato) - Ena. 
 Bathe ; Suruk Titluruita; Faliru. 
 Beads a Marumut, 
 Bed Ringe, Taita. 
 Belly Eboon Eyoon. 
 Belt, of sheath of Borassus 7 Calco gnaman, 
 Belt, woman’s Caleo. 
 Beautiful (view) . Labuang 
 Bird . Manoot 
 Black Metmétan Netoan ; akuda. 
 Blood Lara.. Lara. 
 Blood-vessel Rr Urat-vali. 
 Blue Timtum Niflali. 
 Boat Habo Ra; hor. 
 Body Uling 
 Bone Lurin Lorin, 
 Bow Temar 
 Box Sungoh : 
 Boy Koot-Koot . Kosoku. 
 Breast, male and female .. : Bubur: Soos Bubu: Susu. 
 Bring a Mleba. 
 Butterfly .. Aikuan. 
 Cage Rahankau. 
 Calabash, for eating out of Phenga. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
384 
 
 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 Vocabulary, 
 Chain, girdle worn by women . 
 cord part of it 
 button for fastening 
 
 
 
 ” 
 
 ” 
 
 Ké Islands. 
 
 
 
 Chalk a 
 Child, male ; female Yanad 
 Chief (of the poe os 
 Chin Bi : = 
 Chopper noe ade 
 Clouds ae ss 
 Coat ; er 
 Cocoa-nut ; young (1); old (2) . | Gnoor 
 Cold Tabrinin 
 Comb ; os 
 
 » decorated .. aA 
 Come Modo 
 Cradle Wel-wel 
 Dance 3 = % a 
 Dance song re at = a = 
 Daughter .. iy Yanad vat vat 
 Day Hamar 
 Deity Dooad 
 Doll be 
 Door ids. 
 Ear a .. | Aroon 
 Earrings (of gold 5 earrings of 
 
 dugong) 
 Earth 
 East a 
 Eat Taan 
 Eclipse 
 Eegs 
 Evening 8 
 Exchange .. Tetivook 
 Hye e x - a 
 Eyebrows .. oe Matadroon .. 
 Face a Mahad 
 Far o 
 Father Yamam 
 Fathom yas VOLS 
 Feather .. | Manvoon 
 Female Paul iv 
 Finished . | Enrok 
 Fire isk Abate 
 Fish (1), to fish (2) | Ian (1) 
 Flesh ting: 
 Flower Ae % 
 Hive; . | Raboor 
 Foot mt . 
 Forget Oobloofang .. 
 Fowl ° . | Manoot 
 Friend* | Ningyan 
 Fruit Booal 
 Give = 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Timor-laut (Larat). 
 
 
 
 
 
 — —__—_——— 
 
 Eboor, 
 
 Erit. 
 
 Erit-matan. 
 
 Yafoor. 
 
 Kosoku-vata ; yanad. 
 Tamatmela. 
 
 . | Demid. 
 
 Mutan. 
 
 Ravit. 
 
 Gnoor ; gnoor-vua (1); 
 enoor-ka (2). 
 
 Ridiria. 
 
 Ooal. 
 
 Ooal lela. 
 
 Siwéela. 
 
 Tabar; amtabar. 
 Tjikelele. 
 
 Yana ma vata. 
 
 Dooadilah. 
 
 Taran. 
 
 Tnooan. 
 
 Arood. 
 
 Lor-lora ; welwelak (of 
 Hal:core tooth). 
 
 Elanoo. 
 
 Timor; mololan. 
 
 Mame; Tufnan. 
 
 Karasok faria. 
 
 Mata-téloor. 
 
 Lerivava. 
 
 Heloo. 
 
 Mata. 
 
 Mata-toovin. 
 
 Wahad. 
 
 Roro. 
 
 Yaman. 
 
 Eréfa. 
 
 Vata. 
 
 Rokrook. 
 
 Yafoo. 
 
 Woowoot (1), Tan (1), 
 dawa woot (2). 
 
 Wawoo. 
 
 Ofuoon. 
 
 Lang. 
 Kablufan. 
 Manoot. 
 Kidang. 
 
 Malabokoo-ria. 
 
 
 
 * In Yamgena (mainland) friend is Kes. 
 
 Kamtia lo. 
 
 “Friend, 1 am going,”—“ Kes 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 
 
 385 
 
 
 
 Vocabulary 
 
 
 
 Go.. 
 
 Gold a4 nt 
 
 Good re De 
 
 Great oy . 
 
 Gum 
 
 Hair 
 
 Half 
 
 Hand od 
 
 Hard a 
 
 Harpoon 
 
 Head 
 
 Hear 
 
 Heel 
 
 Here 
 
 Honey 
 
 Horns (of house) . 
 Hot 
 
 House 
 
 How many 
 
 Husband 
 
 Indian corn 
 
 Iron 
 
 Island 
 
 Knee 
 
 Knife (1) sheath @) 
 
 Know don’t : 
 
 Kris 
 
 Large 
 
 Leaf 
 
 Leg 
 
 Lightning... 
 Little 
 
 Loincloth .. 
 
 Long 
 Lorie 
 Louse 
 Male 3 
 Man - ve 
 Man, young 
 
 » married 
 Manioc 
 Many 
 Marry 
 Mat 
 Monkey 
 Moon 
 Morning 
 Mosquito .. 
 Mother 
 
 Mouth ms: pe 
 Mail z, . 
 
 
 
 Ké Islands. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Elbooa 
 Mas .. 
 Book 
 
 Mooroot 
 
 Limad 
 Oosin 
 
 Ood .. 
 Mdenar 
 
 Odani 
 Wenan 
 
 Naneh 
 
 Rahan % a 
 Hongakbe .. ws 
 Brinran re 
 Tman as 
 Nuhoo yanet 
 
 Ead toor 
 
 Gnib 
 
 ee 
 
 
 
 Roan 
 Kang (man’s own 
 lez), eam (another’s) 
 
 Rovt.. 
 
 Bloot 
 Oot : 
 
 Tomata 
 
 Abed 
 Tafan 
 Dar .. 
 Buoo 
 Ooan 
 
 
 
 Emimoos 
 
 Nen.. 
 
 Guen 
 Kukud 
 
 Timor-laut (Larat). 
 
 a 
 
 Mas. 
 
 Lolin. 
 
 Dawon. 
 
 Natal. . 
 Wuoot. 
 
 Tera. 
 
 Limad tanan, 
 Nangrebat, 
 Tear. 
 Oolood-watool, 
 
 Ratawoo, 
 Haworokia. 
 
 Kora. 
 Nanganeh. 
 Rahan. 
 Efira. 
 Hawan. 
 Selaroo, 
 
 Toorad. 
 
 Enko, akooda, 
 Wolemgka, 
 Sariba. 
 Dawon, 
 
 Fad. 
 Fitik. 
 
 
 
 blue and white, 
 
 | Hemen maran, 
 
 blue, Hemen 
 Ro-ok4  antoan. 
 
 white, Hemen 
 
 | buru. 
 Blawat. 
 
 
 
 Leloor. 
 
 Trana. 
 Tomata. 
 Ververun, 
 Etrana. 
 Tooal. 
 Leher, 
 Sefa. 
 
 Voolan. 
 Ververra. 
 Titi. 
 
 Soomar. 
 
386 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Vocabulary. Ké Islands. Timor-laut (Larat) 
 Nail, finger a Pe .. | Kukud 2s 
 Navel se o% a fe “g Cs .. | Fooart. 
 Neck re A ia - - ee .. | Relad: 
 Needle... oe i .. | Boolin = 
 Night - . .. | Dedan = 
 No, simple negative i Serer YY adel i .. | Walafa; wah. 
 No, refusal of & ate ra >| DINGS CG By .. | Nafena. 
 Noon 5 ‘ es ., f, .. | Lerasi lola. 
 North of . te .. | Madmar .. ‘,. | Mormar. 
 Nose Me ~ os .. | Niroon ox .. | Niroot. 
 Oil... a ~ a 2 ae UHTIC e 
 Orchid ie .. e es a ~$ 0 .. | Wookoo. 
 Pics. a ” o .. | Babi _ .. | Bab. 
 Pillow . + “ S os a .. | Loolooni. 
 Poison... os ‘3 f 2 , .. | Elaan. 
 Post : n vot t| LOY? » a 
 Rain (1); it rains (2) a 55 eOOE (2) mens .. | Doot (1); dodt oofiri- 
 roo (2). 
 Rat.. ‘ r; na ose} GAREOO : .. | Manhowan. 
 Rattan... ie - ioe eG tear fs . ot Oe 
 Red a ae 3577] CV OOLVOGLiaeg: .. | Noovooli. 
 Remember | (1); remember well | Oofang nangken .. | Ninana (1); masilolin 
 (2) a a Sie £2 (2). 
 Resin , ae “A ae oe oo) toNeter 
 Reticulum (of palm) a a zs es .. | Nafit: 
 Rice a a .. | Kokat ne .. | Wanan. 
 River ; fe ., -» *| Hoat a .. | Noar. 
 At (path) 2 - <n8 8) OOS, zt 
 Roo a .. | Waar oe 
 Soviets (palm wine) “Ys .. | Tooat a .. | Tooak. 
 5, Bamboo for ean . “th .. | Ravivit. 
 Salt Ae .. | Masin z .. | Sirak. 
 Sand : .. | Gnwoor e .. | Gnuoor. 
 Say; what do you say ou .. | Onalaka " 
 Sea.. ; . | Laut * .. | Meti; tahat; haletan. 
 See.. ve ‘. a cee) Lik = .. | Misilik. 
 Sell ve i: oe .. | Oomfed a .. | Fedi. 
 Send 4c ve o ne ~ a .. | Nigaén ngnoo. 
 Sew op me Bs .. | Mhoar x 
 Shell : e 4 = .. | Mahan. 
 Shell, oreat clam (Tridacna) ¥ es 6 .. | Mahan. 
 Shield... se : | Ler:., n .. | Salawakoon (long). 
 Gnelia (short). 
 Silver .. | Rubi a .. | Mas ninoor. 
 Siri (1); basket for siri 2) .: |"Maneran .. .. | Naan (1); looyoo 
 Skin a 22+} Ulids. 3 ~ 
 Sky ee a as ad s oy .. | Lanit. 
 Sleep o ie 3 ..- | Tatoob me «| Toobas 
 Sleeping-mat 7 ss ‘3 o 7 .. | Elari bangkoko. 
 Small fe 7 me ot es 23 .s | Koko. 
 Smoke es - ~3 .. | Yafmahum .. .. | Yafuman. 
 Snake 5 ¥ - .» | Rubai; 4; .. | Nifa. 
 Son au iz ef ot Oe 5 .. | Yana ma brana, 
 Sour i ct a .. | Kahir a . | Kabi 
 South Fe is “3 .. | Tranan s, ..-| Trana, 
 Speak A 0 se ef] Lanerini gee .. | Tangrihi (guttural). 
 Spear es an 5 .» | Nangah .. .. | Boonoot. 
 Spoon se =? a -3 a cd .. | Ooroo. 
 
 
 
 
 
IN TIMOR-LAUT. 387 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Vocabulary. Ké Islands. Timor-laut (Larat). 
 Star Nar. Narra. 
 Suckle x Toi masoosoo 
 Sugar-cane Tevoo. 
 Sun 2 Lera. 
 Sweet Kaslooir Minaminat. 
 Tattooing .. Belbela. 
 Teeth Nifat ; nifa rida. 
 Testicles Kamad. 
 There (to).. Tatin-heri. 
 Thatch .. Rafat. 
 Thread, thread of which native 
 sarongs are made Kare. Avat; aldan. 
 Thumb~ He Limad keteh. 
 Thunder Nafdud Dodong. 
 Tibia, tuberosity of x Gnangoi. 
 Ties, made of sugar-palm Eira. 
 Toe, great .. oe Ead tanan keteh. 
 Toe, second (1); little toe (2570 Ead tanan frooan (1); 
 frooan kewaren (2). 
 Toe-nail Ead uoon. 
 Toe ring Sitanea. 
 To-day es Lervava. 
 To-morrow Meran Vera-vera. 
 Tongue Eard. 
 Trousers - (?) Kada. 
 Understand Okai Fanowak. 
 Very ; very beautiful , Roak ; lolin roak. 
 Wake ee Batai 
 Wash Be Burik (?) Wangir. 
 Wash, hands Tiflaru trame. 
 Wash, teeth Tonumur. 
 Water ; ca ~ Wehr Ooér. 
 Waves (1); large waves (2) Voo-vooat (1) Saksahan (1); lalawa 
 (2). 
 Wax ee Se - Lilin 
 Weep . Mroon Fakar. 
 West y Warat mololan. 
 White Nangear Nangear. 
 Wife Hodd 
 Wind Nioot Néet ; lar. 
 Window ee Yanella. 
 Wing Halean Halaan. 
 Wire Bilbal Ververi. 
 Wish Rangen Inan roh. 
 Woman Vat-vat Vata; mnilat. 
 Wood Ai Saifa. 
 Work "i ae Tootwafa. 
 Yellow Toomtoom .. 
 Numerals :— 
 1 = esa. 8 = ewaloo. 50 = ootlima. 
 2 = eroo. 9 = esl. 60 = ootnean. 
 - 3 = eteloo. 10 = esapuloo. 70 = ootfitoo. 
 4 = efat 20 = ootrooa. 80 = ootwaloo. 
 ») = elima. 30 = eteteloo. 90 = ootsi. 
 6 = enean. 40 = ootfaat. 100 = ratoo. 
 7 = efitoo. 
 
 oe Oe 2 
 
7 Pe ¥ 4 aa 
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 Pegs 
 
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Ne Ly an 
 
 
 
 IN THE ISLAND OF BURU. 
 

 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 FROM KAJELI TO THE LAKE. 
 
 From Amboina to Buru—Kajeli—Trade of Kajeli—Birds—River Apu—Wai 
 Bloi village—Village of Wai Gelan—The Matakau—Forced encampments 
 —Wai Klaba—A Pomalied mountain—Wasilale—Hospitable reception 
 —Houses—Musical performance—Pomali signs—Arrive at Laha. 
 
 HAvinG packed up and despatched my Timor-laut collections 
 to Europe, I left Amboina on the afternoon of the 7th of 
 November (A remaining behind with our kind hosts) for 
 Buru, an island a short distance to the west, with the inten- 
 tion of reaching the central region round the rarely visited 
 Lake of Wakolo. Next morning at daybreak we were steam- 
 ing under the shade of the “ Mother and Daughter ” mountains 
 of the Dutch maps, whose picturesquely rugged peaks, stand- 
 ing out against the sky like giant minster towers, mark the 
 eastern promontory of the Bay of Kajeli, in whose southern 
 bend lies the town of the same name, where I landed in the 
 forenoon, and was kindly offered a room in the house of Post- 
 holder Bergmann. 
 
 The town is situated on a low morassy plain, which, during 
 the rainy season, is often wholly inundated, and has the 
 reputation of being very unhealthy, the people being afflicted 
 with malarial and rheumatic fevers, and I am told also with 
 sterility. ts most conspicuous edifice is the Fort, enclosed in 
 massive embrasured walls erected in 1778 by the Dutch close 
 to the shore, to protect the Bay from the pirate hordes who 
 used to make Buru their special slave-kidnapping ground. 
 There is now, however, a distance of from seven hundred to 
 eight hundred yards of a tall grass covered sandy flat separat- 
 ing it from the margin of the water, which has been gained 
 from the sea in little over 100 years. 
 
 Its great items of export are fish (which, during the latter 
 months of the year are driven into the Bay in enormous 
 
 
 
392 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 quantities), sago, and the famous Kajuput oil,* distilled by 
 the natives from the leaves of the gum trees (Melaleuca 
 Kajuputi) which form a large part of the vegetation of the 
 shores of the Bay. In the year previous to my visit 96,000 
 bottles, worth £9,200, were shipped for Macassar, Singapore, 
 and China. From Masaretti, one of the villages in the south 
 coast, a large trade is done with Amboina in Katjang beans 
 (Arachis hypogea), in Hotjong (Hleusine coracana), and in 
 pigs, in exchange for copper gongs, in whose music the natives 
 greatly delight. These pigs, brought from the mountainous 
 parts of the interior, having been fed on sago, which gives 
 their flesh a specially fine flavour, fetch a higher price in the 
 market than any other. 
 
 The island is divided into rajah-ships, whose rajahs reside 
 in Kajeli and spend most of their time under the influence of 
 opium. 
 
 One of the chief points of interest to me in Buru, was the 
 fact that it has been considered—not on any very certain data 
 —as the starting-point of the final dispersion of the autoch- 
 thenes of the archipelago, the Mahori (or Polynesian) races, 
 eastward to their Pacific homes. As between the coast tribes 
 and the Aléfurus of the interior, who, according to their own 
 superstitions “durst not approach the sea so near as to hear 
 it breaking on the shore without being struck with dire sick- 
 ness,” there has never been much inter-communication, I was 
 very anxious to see these little contaminated people of the 
 interior. 
 
 I was disappointed, however, to find that my official letters 
 for aid were useless without “ instructions” from the Resident 
 (I had applied officially for them to Mr. Riedel, but he 
 abstained from taking any notice of my letter), the Post-holder — 
 was not at liberty to assist me in obtaining porters or other 
 transport to the lake; but as he was himself very soon to go 
 there officially, he would be very pleased, he said, if I would 
 accompany him. As it was impossible for me to obtain the 
 necessary transport except through the rajahs at the instance 
 of the Post-holder, I was glad on any terms of the chance 
 
 * This is the Dutch spelling of the Malay Kayu=wood or tree, puti 
 = white, from the colour of the bark of the tree. 
 T Consult Stanford’s Compendium of Geography, Australasia, -app., p. 612. 
 
IN BURU. - §308 
 
 of penetrating into this interesting island. Meanwhile I 
 employed myself in collecting round Kajeli, where I obtained 
 many of the species of birds discovered there by Mr. Wallace, 
 and described by him in the “ Proceedings of the Zoological 
 Society ” for 1863, among them the interesting oriole (Oriolus 
 buruensis) and the honey bird (Philemon moluccensis) which 
 it mimics, both closely resembling the corresponding species 
 shot in Larat, as well as the pretty Kajeli kingfisher (Ceya cajelz), 
 the Aprosmictus buruensis, and the rare Eclectus intermedius. 
 
 On the 14th we started for our first stage towards the Lake, 
 the village of Wai Bl6i (where we were to find our transport 
 men waiting us), accompanied by the Rajah of Kajeli, in 
 whose district the Lake lies, and the Pati of Lisela through a 
 portion of whose territory we had to pass. The way to Wai 
 (river) Bldi, the first village beyond the morass land fringing 
 the shore, lay up the river Wai Apu, which debouches in 
 the centre of the Kajeli Bay, an hour’s sail from the town. 
 
 The river near its embouchure splits into many arms among 
 the mangrove swamps, then winds for hours through low 
 morass between banks green with fern-hedges dipping their 
 fronds into the sluggish water under the shade of tall slender 
 trees. Higher up these gave place to Pandan thickets out of 
 which rose tall Lontar-, Pinang-, and wild sago- (Metroaylon 
 jilare) palms, and graceful tree ferns. Where the banks were 
 less submerged the jungle became very dense behind a thick 
 barrier of Mangabrabu in profuse flower (Cerbera odallam and 
 C. lactaria) Apocynaceous shrubs, which lined the river sides 
 for miles, and dotted the water with their white blossoms. 
 Out of this thicket an occasional black cuckoo (Hudynamis 
 ransomt) flew out as we passed, while on the taller trees whose 
 heads shot up above the jungle sat many white Nutmeg- 
 pigeons (Myristicivora melanura) and here and there a red- 
 necked hawk (Accipiter rubricollis). 
 
 After four hours of hard rowing, the blue hills shot up 
 right ahead and broke the gloom of the monotonous vege- 
 tation which had bounded our view, and between which, 
 throughout the rest of the hot afternoon, our prau was now 
 slowly dragged through frequent rapids, now laboriously 
 poled upwards against the swiftening stream. Baked in our 
 cramped position in the narrow boat, the journey would 
 
394 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 have been almost unbearable, but for the frequent flash of 
 insect—bright Papilios and Ornithopteras—and of bird—the 
 orange Pachycephalas, the yellow White-eyes (Zosterops), lazily 
 flapping Herons, and the blue-plumaged scarlet-billed Water- 
 hens (Porphyrio melanopterus)—which darted to and fro across 
 the stream. 
 
 At dark, in the midst of a heavy rain, we reach the con- 
 fluence of the Wai bldi, about 200 feet above the sea, where 
 several Aléfurus—the name by which all the natives of the 
 interior I met call themselves—were waiting to carry us on 
 suspended chairs to the village about a mile distant. The 
 Aléfurus can scarcely be said to inhabit villages; they live 
 more frequently in isolated houses on the patch of land they 
 cultivate or in small communities. ‘Those, however, within 
 certain regions denominated Soas seem to have claims on each 
 other of consanguinity or friendship ; as if the members of a 
 large village had dispersed, and, while living separately, still 
 recognised all the former ties in times of difficulty or war. 
 Hach Soa has its chief, and Merinyo or under chief, who is 
 responsible to Porterus, officials who receive in the name of 
 the rajah the tribute of their gardens and fields as well as — 
 compel them to give their produce, in exchange for coast goods 
 at an exorbitant profit. 
 
 Next day we took a westward course through fields of tall 
 Kussu grass dotted with Kayu-puti trees, and through swamps 
 full of sago palms. At early forenoon we rested for a little at the 
 village cluster of the River Gelan, one of the tributaries of the 
 River Apu. Overarching the path was an open shed with 
 benches along each side on which we reclined, serving possibly 
 as a general meeting room or rest-house for passers correspond- 
 ing to the Balai of Sumatra, or the Baluaz of Amboina. 
 When we arrived we found a sleeping child tied in a blanket 
 swaying to and fro at the end of a rope hung from the rafters. 
 It had been thus left to be rocked and nursed by the wind, till 
 its mother returned from the fields! As soon as a traveller 
 arrived I noticed that he was at once waited on by the women 
 of the village who brought siri, betel and chalk, and a hot 
 ember to light his cigarette. The women seemed to live in 
 great subjection to the men, who never did anything for them- 
 selves if a woman was within call. 
 
*. 
 
 IN BUR U. 395 
 
 
 
 Their houses were of the most miserable description, fairly 
 well-roofed but without any furniture or conveniences, with the 
 exception of a narrow platform raised a few feet above the 
 earthen floor for sleeping on. Behind each house I observed 
 a small thatched structure which 
 they called the Matakau, the 
 sacred place of the Aléfuru 
 wherein, by burning dammar, 
 he propitiates the Great Spirit 
 Allah Stalla. The Matakau is 
 a small platform erected on a 
 short pole and roofed over with 
 palm-leaf thatch from whose 
 eaves all round hangs down a 
 long fringe of split-up palm 
 leaflets. Inside are preserved a 
 knife, a spear, a Kaw turin or 
 thick walking-stick constantly 
 carried by the natives on their 
 journeys (with these they are - 
 adepts at quarter-staff; I was 
 much amused by seeing two 
 children practising with singu- 
 lar skill their cuts and guards, quite unconscious of being 
 watched), a dish containing siri, betel and chalk, and a piece of 
 scarlet cloth. Before sowing any of their fields, some of the 
 seed is always placed inside the Matakau, dammar is burned, 
 and their ritual performed in order to secure its fructification. 
 
 Their most dreaded and respected oath is made, holding the 
 sharp top of a sago palm leaf in the hand, on the sacred knife 
 and spear taken from the Matakau ; for they believe in the power 
 of these pomali-weapons to harm them at any unguarded 
 moment. Another form of adjuration is in drinking after 
 making their declaration, water in which had been placed salt 
 (that they may melt away), a blade of Kussu-grass (that they 
 may be scarred as by its edges), a lance and a knife (that 
 their bodies be pierced, cut and run through) if they have 
 sworn falsely. 
 
 Proceeding on our way, we camped for the night in the 
 
 
 
 MATAKAU. 
 
 _ forest under a canopy made of the long leaves of the sago- 
 
396 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 palm cut down and arranged for us by the Aléfurus. Un- 
 fortunately for the quick progress of our march, my German 
 companion, unaccustomed to travel, was easily fatigued, and 
 both the native chiefs were devotees of the opium pipe, and 
 were constantly finding all manner of excuses for a halt too 
 readily acquiesced in by Mr. Bergmann. No sooner was the 
 order given than their blankets were at once spread on the 
 ground, and the soothing narcotic produced. 
 
 Next day we journeyed through Kussu-grass fields, with 
 scarcely a vestige of forest, and only sparse belts or low scrub 
 of Melaleuea and Melastoma, without having the satisfaction of 
 seeing a single bird or insect. ‘The country now began to rise 
 in successive steps, first over a height of 5UV0 feet, down 400 
 feet, to rise again 600 feet. 
 
 On the third day we were compelled to camp at noon on the 
 banks of the Klaba, on another of those excuses—that no 
 other stream could be reached within the day’s march—which 
 the Rajah of Kajeli, who had never gone the road in his life, 
 was constantly making to enable him to resume his soporific 
 smoke. The Klaba, like all the other streams we had crossed, 
 was making for the Apu. The valley was set with more clumps 
 of trees and cycads than any of those we had yet traversed. 
 
 A short way behind I had observed tall bamboo spikes 
 bristlng thickly among the grass, for the purpose evidently of 
 catching deer and pig driven towards them by firing the grass 
 in a wide semicircle around them. After our huts—made of 
 the bark of Commersonia echinata, a very abundant tree 
 there—were erected, I started with my hunters and some of 
 the Aléfurus as beaters, in hopes of securing a haunch of 
 venison for our larder. We were fortunate in meeting within 
 an hour with two little herds, from the second of which I secured 
 a fine young stag. While it was being prepared, I scoured the 
 bed of a dry stream behind the camp, and caught numerous 
 fine Tiger Beetles (Cecindelidx) and many species of a Tenaris, 
 a butterfly closely resembling the Tenaris wrania of Amboina, 
 but being much paler, I have separated it by the name 
 T’. buruensis. 
 
 Next day another very short march was made, a halt being 
 called on the pretext that a ridge of the mountain in front of 
 us was Kiting or tabooed. As we could not pass over it before 
 
 
 
IN BURU. 7 97 
 sundown, and might not be camped on it, we had to pass the 
 night again in the forest in a dense rain, on the slope above our 
 former camp, 1500 feet above the sea. At break of next day 
 we continued the ascent of Mount Makka to about 2000 feet 
 above the sea, passing through low sparse jungle full of Dipteris 
 horsfieldit ferns and thickets of the bracken (which so often 
 accompanies it), till we came on the Kiiing region which had 
 been a great forest, but had only recently been burned down 
 leaving many of the lifeless stems standing, and from the 
 falling of whose dead limbs the Aléfurus seemed to stand in 
 great dread. No one dared to speak to his neighbour during 
 our passage ; I was besought not to shoot, and above all no 
 one might use certain proscribed words for fear of disaster. 
 No Buruese of the interior, it is said, can dare to approach 
 the sea so near as to hear the beating of the surf without 
 falling ill. Whether the superstition has arisen from the fact 
 that the sea could be seen from the high elevation we were 
 on, or whether it was because it might be the residing place of 
 hostile spirits, I do not know. All along the way I could hear 
 them repeating some sort of invocation, and on quitting the 
 noxious region, one of the men stopped behind to erect another 
 of those little white stakes three to five feet high, which we 
 had seen at various places along the tabooed region—a branch 
 carefully stripped of all its bark, its extremity wrapped round 
 with a piece of scarlet cloth, and sharpened, to be tipped with a 
 morsel of pinang nut. I imagine these pillars to be thanks- 
 giving offerings to the spirit of the place for a safe passage. 
 
 Descending to the river Wohangan, which we crossed at 
 about 1000 feet above the sea, we halted for lunch, the 
 Aléfurus rubbing their limbs and bodies till they were quite 
 blistered, with the leaves of a very sharp stinging nettle, 
 Urtica ovalifolia, “to take away their fatigue.” We had at 
 last entered a more wooded country, and I noted on the damp 
 shade many fine Zingiberacex never seen before in flower, and 
 a Didymocarpus with a white corolla margined with deep 
 indigo. Along the banks of the stream I observed also quite 
 a’ number of butterflies I had not seen elsewhere, and were 
 I to return to Buru I should certainly make a prolonged stay 
 near this river. 
 
 Rain compelled us again to camp in the forest. After a 
 
398 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 comfortless night we ascended the steep side of the Woresa, 
 this time to 3000 feet, camping on its farther slope in another 
 deluge of rain, in which we were thoroughly drenched. The 
 Aléfurus extemporised for themselves elegant shelters by 
 piling a thatch of extra branches on the tied-together tops 
 of neighbouring bushy shrubs. These, dotted about round 
 our larger bark-made huts, formed, when lit up by our large 
 central fire, quite a picturesque camp, which we were too wet to 
 be in a humour to enjoy much. 
 
 We proceeded next day in a very unfit state from the chill 
 of the previous night, but we had not gone far when some 
 anxiety was caused by finding the ground set with bamboo 
 spikes. Not knowing whether this was a sign of hostility 
 towards us or against some former enemy we kept the baggage 
 back a little and went on ourselves ahead, with loaded arms ; 
 but finding no other traces we descended without further 
 thought of ill to the Wai Gelan, another large river, making, 
 as all the streams we had yet crossed, to join with tributaries 
 of the tributaries of the Apu. Except at a few spots, the 
 paucity of birds, insects, and also snakes for which Buru has 
 a bad reputation but of which we had not seen a single 
 specimen, surprised me very much. From the Wai Gelan the 
 ascent—each height exceeded the one before it all the way to 
 the coast—was very steep and slippery, which the Aléfurus, 
 inciting each other with cries of Gossa, gossa (good, good), 
 required all their strength to get our baggage up. At 2400 
 feet, coming on a few houses called Wasilalé in the middle of 
 a forest garden, the first signs of life we had seen since leaving 
 the river Bloi, we decided to halt for the night, and press 
 forward to the lake next day. 
 
 We took up our quarters in a rest-house of the most abject 
 description, but quite in keeping with their own miserable 
 dwellings. Three or four men, who had shortly after our 
 arrival started off evidently to their gardens, returned carrying 
 between them a large pig which they had killed to mark the 
 rare event of Kuropean visitors in their midst. The women and 
 girls hurried about bringing blocks of stone, with which they 
 formed a large paved area to serve as an oven, whereon they 
 piled a roaring fire till the stones began to burst from the heat 
 in loud reports. As soon as the stones were heated to the 
 
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 *s6g abnd anf oO 
 
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IN BURU. 399 
 
 heart, hastily clearing off the fire they threw the pig body-bulk 
 on the glowing stones, closely covering it up with fresh green 
 banana leaves. In little over an hour we had served up to us 
 a piece of pork baked to perfection, the most deliciously 
 flavoured I have ever tasted. When we had rested some time 
 after our meal their jubilation was further marked by a musical 
 performance given in one of their huts, and, as we were invited 
 to attend, I had an opportunity of seeing the interior arrange- 
 ment of their houses. 
 
 They were constructed of uneven strips of tree bark, roughly 
 set up side by side on the unlevelled ground, held in place by 
 narrow rinds of bamboo on each side, tightly tied together by 
 thongs at the gaps between each strip of bark. By these wide 
 chinks the pigs and dogs made the dwelling as much theirs 
 as the owner’s. The roof was of palm thatch and badly put 
 on patches of bark. At both gables was a quadrangular hole 
 to serve as doorway and window, closed by a squarish piece of 
 bark hung by a thong through a hole in the wall above it. 
 Between these openings there ran a central passage, full (as I 
 saw it) of pools of water. The space on each side of this 
 passage was divided off by low bark partitions into three or 
 four narrow stalls (across the top of which was piled their 
 store of wood logs) such as might be found in the worst 
 possible cowhouse; while against the wall where one would 
 look for a manger was a small platform raised two or 
 three feet from the ground, to serve for seat or bed. The 
 fire was made anywhere which was for the moment most 
 convenient—in the passage, or in one of the stalls—the smoke 
 oozing through the numerous chinks and by a small patch 
 raised in one of the rows of thatch. There was not in the 
 whole dwelling a single article of furniture or any decorative 
 artifice or a single device for affording convenience or comfort. 
 
 To accommodate me with a seat to listen to the musical 
 “function,” a large stone had to be brought in. The per- 
 formers, who were of both sexes, disposed themselves in the 
 passage on stones and logs. The men sang an improvised 
 song to their own vigorous accompaniment on the native tifa, 
 or drum, to which the women, sitting on their heels, languidly 
 supporting their heads on their arms, which rested on their 
 knees, contributed an unchanging refrain at the end of every 
 
400 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 few words of the song. ‘The men seemed to enjoy themselves, 
 often laughing heartily at their own improvised conceits, but 
 the women might have been absolute automata; for not a 
 single expression of pleasure, interest, or enjoyment ever 
 passed over their impassive features. The exhibition was 
 one of the saddest possible pictures of the miserable position 
 among the Aléfurus of the woman, who, though not treated 
 with cruelty or harshness, lives in abject uncomplaining 
 slavery—as if for the man alone all things, woman especially, 
 were created. 
 
 Next morning, starting early, we continued our ascent 
 through dense forest, full of Ternstrcemaceous trees to 
 8600 feet above the sea, the highest point reached in our 
 journey. Just at the summit I came on a curious Pomali sign 
 set up in the forest to protect probably some part of it from 
 depradation. Its exact meaning I could not find out. It 
 consisted of a low house shaped structure, somewhat like the 
 Matakau seen at Wai Bloi village, and fixed in the ground, 
 protected from harm by large wide couples of wood. Under 
 its cover six little pillars were set in the ground; on the top 
 of one was a peg a few inches high whose tip was set into a 
 cross-piece of sago-palm pith forming a T device, while into 
 this cross-piece were inserted two small nails of wood, each 
 bearing a pellet, the root of the Hala (? the officinal ginger) ; 
 on two others, whose tops were encircled by a rattan girdle, 
 within which several wooden wedges were driven, sharp 
 bamboo spikes (such as are stuck in the ground to wound 
 unwary travellers) were suspended by a cord; the fourth had 
 its summit split for some length by two or three wedges of 
 wood; the fifth, girdled with a rattan ring, had a piece of halia 
 inserted below a chip of wood and transfixed to the summit 
 with a peg, while the sixth was a bamboo full of water. The 
 Aléfurus accompanying me said, that each pillar indicated 
 a species of retribution that would overtake the trespasser. 
 
 Commencing our descent we reached a stream running in 
 a westerly direction, which conducted us to a few houses on the 
 margin of the Lake, which had been visited by white men but 
 three or four times in as many hundred years, 
 
IN, BOULUD; 401 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 AT LAKE WAKOLO. 
 
 The Lake—The people there—Garments—Cultivation—Arms and accoutre- 
 ments—Marriage—Death rites—Superstitions about the lake—Explana- 
 tion of its position and of the absence of fish in it—New birds—Great 
 disappointment—Return to Kajeli—Thence to Amboina—Compelled to 
 leave the Moluccas—A kind farewell—Leave for Timor. 
 
 Mr. Beremany, the Post-holder, had hoped, he said, to find 
 some 2000 people living round the lake, and to stay for at 
 least a week or ten days; but we found only some seven or 
 eight houses as poor as the few we had already passed, and he 
 decided on the afternoon of our arrival to start back in a couple 
 of days to the coast. This was a grievous disappointment to 
 me after so difficult and arduous a journey. As he would not 
 be induced to stay, and without the presence of the Rajahs who 
 would accompany him I could obtain nothing, either in the 
 way of food ox of porterage, I could only make the most, 
 therefore, of the few hours at my disposal. I devoted the 
 remainder of the first day to seeing something of the people, 
 and in sketching their features. 
 
 The lake mountaineers, living so far removed from all coast 
 interference, and rarely, if ever, visiting the shore, should be 
 better representatives of the Buruese than the low country 
 tribes who are now quite tinctured in manners and customs, as 
 well as in race, by an infinite variety of influences—and where 
 indeed is the race now to be found not so contaminated by 
 extraneous forces? The ideas as well as the manufactures of 
 western lands are beginning to be felt and seen in the huts 
 of the rudest tribes, and among the people the most distant 
 from civilisation. It is therefore more incumbent than ever 
 on all travellers to record with the utmost fidelity every 
 minutiz of the customs and ideas of the rude peoples they 
 encounter, for with the disappearance of their untainted 
 
 2D 
 
402 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 legends, words and thoughts, will die out a chapter of far- 
 past history that can never be recovered again on the globe. 
 
 The men are of medium height—averaging about 5 feet 
 2, inches—and a little taller than the women. They are a 
 weak, emaciated, ill-conditioned, and somewhat effeminate- 
 looking race. Many of them suffer from the fungoid skin 
 disease so often met with among the badly nurtured peoples 
 further to the east. They are not a warlike people, and are 
 not head-hunters like the Ceramese. : 
 
 In colour they are brown, or yellowish brown, and, as far as 
 my observations go, none of them are black as the Aru people 
 are. Their hair is fairly abundant on the head, but not 
 profuse, in fact rather scanty on other parts of the body. 
 Their faces are bare, as a rule, though a few have a few long 
 hairs at the corners of the mouth and the upper lip. The 
 head-hair is not worn in the high-matted frizzled coiffure 
 as seen among some of the Papuans, but it is curled in 
 a more or less loose manner well seen in the figure on the 
 opposite page. It is parted in the centre as a rule, and 
 allowed to hang down on both sides in loose irregular curls, 
 appearing through and above the kerchief which is worn 
 round the head. Dr. Bastian, in his ‘ Indonesien,’ states that 
 the Wakolo Lake Buruese have smooth hair; but this is not 
 absolutely the case. Nearer the coast, however, hair as straight 
 as in any Sundanese is met with. That form of nose with 
 high dorsum and over-hanging tip which I observed conspicu- 
 ously in Timor-laut, and subsequently in the interior of Timor, 
 as seen in the concluding Part of this book, was not observed 
 among the Buruese ; nor yet that tall and more athletic build 
 of man (and woman) which could not escape observation in 
 both of the islands just named. The Wakolo women had the 
 same meek and submissive bearing that I had noticed in those 
 met with nearer the coast. 
 
 Very few of them wear ornaments beyond a small stud of 
 silver in the ear; the children are provided with a piece of 
 dried intestine of the Cuscus in their ear-lobes, and round their 
 necks ; while both sexes wear armlets of shell, of a thong-like 
 corneous coralline called by the Malays akar bahar, and of the 
 intestine of the Cuscus. 
 
 The garments worn by the men were the usual T-bandage, 
 

 
 
 
 To face page 402. 
 
 NATIVE OF WAKOLO VILLAGE, LAKE WAKOLO. 
 
IN BURU. 403 
 
 and by the women a short sarong, or petticoat, or a long loose 
 smock-like robe. 
 
 In fields cleared out of the forest—which seem to belong 
 to the man who has cleared them, and his heirs, as long as 
 they do not return to wild forest—they cultivate tobacco, 
 corn, and the usual sweet tubers, species of Convolvulus and 
 Colocasia, which they eat to the juice of the boiled Sawn 
 (Pandanus ceramicus) one of the most magnificent scarlet 
 fruits of their forests. Not much rice is grown, but it is 
 received in exchange from the Aléfurus of the lower country 
 for tobacco and tubers, tifas (or drums), and the strong woven 
 Cot or wallet, so universally carried. I was not permitted 
 to go into their fields, as strangers and coast people are 
 tabooed, for fear of some evil befalling their poomalied seeds, 
 and cannot, therefore, speak of their mode of cultivation. 
 From the cotton (Gossypium nucranthum), which they cultivate 
 themselves, they make their own thread. 
 
 The only baggage an Aléfuru carries with him besides his 
 kau-turin or cudgel, and a spear, is the Coz, a strong satchel 
 slung on his buttocks by a cord round his waist, in which he 
 carries his tobacco and those prized comforts of his tribe—siri 
 leaves, betel-nut, and chalk often contained, in aslightly orna- 
 mented gourd. In former times the women in every village 
 in Buru could weave these cois; now, however, the lower 
 country tribes, having acquired increased wealth by the 
 development of trade in the various products they so easily 
 grow or rear, and with wealth laziness by their ability to supply 
 their wants without labouring, have quite forgotten or aban- 
 doned the art, and are dependent for their supply on the 
 mountaineers to whom the knowledge of their manufacture 
 is confined. The cloth, called by them kain fuka, of which 
 these satchels are made is a very strong almost indestructible 
 canvas, which they render perfectly waterproof by rubbing 
 into it the juice expressed from the bark of a tree, kulit rofu, 
 probably one of the Artocarpex. To them is also confined the 
 art of hollowing out of Pinang and Nangka (Artocarpus) logs, 
 of the tifas or drums, which are so indispensable at all their 
 feasts and religious ceremonies, as well as of the manufacture 
 of their spears and knives, the art of iron working also being 
 forgotten by the dwellers nearer the coast. 
 . 2vd 2 
 
404 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Marriage among them, as far as I could learn, was the simple 
 purchase of a woman for a large sum in all manner of trade 
 articles, and is celebrated by a feast. Very often she is pur- 
 chased when yet a child, and is reared in the house of her 
 master and husband, who may have as many wives as he 
 can afford. If the husband cannot pay the full price at once, 
 his family have to undertake part of the responsibility of 
 payment, and till then the woman is in servitude to the whole 
 family. On the death of the man she is reckoned as part 
 of his goods, and falls with his other property to his heirs, 
 who may sell her again to another suitor for a price not 
 less than she has cost. The children of the union are the 
 father’s exclusive property and thereafter of his relations. If 
 no suitor desires to marry his widow she remains in the 
 cheerless lot of a menial slave and concubine of the husband’s 
 family. 
 
 Their death rites are also curious and interesting as being 
 in some respects similar to those practised in different parts 
 of Australia. As soon as life is extinct the man’s body is 
 brought out on a bier in front of his house and laid on the 
 ground, with the head in front of a stake driven into the ground. 
 The bier is struck several times and the questions put, “ Have 
 you died by the will of Allah Stalla?” or “Has death been 
 the result of the machinations of mortal man?” If the body 
 move forwards to strike the stake, the reply is supposed to be 
 in the affirmative. If the intimation is that death has not 
 been natural, the corpse is questioned in order to find the 
 delinquent through all the Rajah-ships, till the correct one is 
 indicated ; then through all the Soas or villages, and through 
 all the individuals of the selected Soa, till the culprit’s name is 
 obtained, who is at once seized and condemned to pay a death 
 fine, for the backbone a certain price, for each right and left 
 rib, for each hand and foot, for the head and the contents of 
 the body, each a fixed sum; altogether a large amount in 
 every species of trade article. 
 
 ‘Che Buruese are firm believers in. Swangies, or spirits of 
 their fellows endowed with the power to go about disembodied, 
 working evil (generally) to their neighbours. An individual 
 with this power is greatly dreaded, and derives not a few 
 presents, for the purpose of retaining his goodwill, as also 
 

 
‘OIOMVM JO AMVI HHL dO MOIA 
 ‘cop abnd aavf os 
 
 BOCs . 
 FE a 
 
 
 
IN BURU. 405 
 
 payment from those who desire some evil to befall an enemy 
 without suspicion of its originator. The Swangi is supposed 
 to be able to cover with misfortune whom he will without 
 their being aware whence the disaster comes. 
 
 Their dead are buried in the forest in some secluded spot 
 far from other graves, and marked often by a merang or grave 
 pole, and over which at certain intervals their relatives place 
 tobacco, cigarettes, and various offerings. When the body is 
 decomposed, the son or nearest relative disinters the head, 
 wraps a new cloth about it, and places it in the Matakau at the 
 back of his house, or in a little hut erected for it near the 
 grave. It is the representative of his forefathers whose behests 
 he holds in the greatest respect. 
 
 The day after our arrival was spent from break of day in 
 botanising, collecting birds, and in examining the lake. This 
 is a magnificent sheet of water, several miles in diameter and 
 some 40 to 50 fathoms deep, indented with many beautiful 
 bays, embracing the hills which abruptly rise up from it on all 
 sides. It was not an easy matter to get the Merinyo of the 
 place to give us a boat and rowers to make an examination of its 
 margins, and only after a long invocation to the spirit of the 
 Lake would he consent to accompany us. It is only with 
 the utmost awe and dread that they trust themselves on its 
 surface. They have many strange legends concerning it. One 
 of these is that at certain periods a Lagundi tree (Vetea sp.) 
 suddenly grows up the centre of the Lake, its appearance 
 being accompanied by fearful storms of wind and waves, and 
 the terrified cries of the birds that crowd its margins. On 
 the subsiding of the storm the Lagundi is found to have dis- 
 appeared. Another superstition is, that on the firing of a gun 
 a thunderstorm is liable to break out, sent by the angered 
 spirits. Every chief, therefore, on his arrival at the Lake 
 plants a white stick in the ground as a signal of peace. The 
 Wakolo men who rowed me kept up an invocation the whole 
 time we were out, and they positively refused to take me 
 out into the middle or even very far from the shore. A 
 erocodile—one of the animals sacred in the mythology of Buru 
 —is also supposed to reside in the lake, whence once a year 
 it pays a visit to the shore. 
 
 It is singular that no fish except eels live in its waters. 
 
406 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Lying in the very centre of the island, at a height of some 
 1900 feet above the sea, and surrounded by high hills—except 
 at one point, where, it is said, though I could not detect any- 
 thing to assure me of the truth of the statement, that the 
 Wai Nipe runs out of it—it has much the appearance of 
 a lake filling up the crater of an old volcano, to which their 
 legend of its periodical troubling may have some reference. 
 The margins of the water were set with flags and shrubby 
 pandans, which gave shelter to thousands and thousands of 
 ducks (Dendrocygna guttata)—of which I secured a large 
 number—little Grebes (Podiceps), and Cormorants (Phalocra- 
 corax), and several species of Water-hen (Porphyrio). The 
 whole day was spent in skinning these birds, and putting up 
 the plants in drying paper. 
 
 On the following day some of the women returning from 
 their fields brought me a specimen of a Myzomela, which they 
 had taken with the gum of an Artocarpus tree, which delighted 
 me immensely, as no species of this genus was then known to 
 extend so far to the west. It turned out on examination to be 
 an undescribed species, which I have named Myzomela wako- 
 loénsis. I asked them to show me where the specimen had 
 been obtained; but as it was in their gardens which are 
 tabooed to coast people, I would not persuade them to admit 
 me. On offering, however, a large reward for additional speci- 
 mens, several women set off back to their fields, whence in the 
 afternoon they returned with a quite number all fluttering on 
 a string; most of them had lost their tails and were entirely 
 smeared with gum, a few only being at all presentable. 
 Among these true scarlet Myzomelas was an immature Nec- 
 tarine bird in a wretched condition, with the basal portion of 
 its beak greenish-yellow and the rest black, which is pro- 
 bably also another and unknown species of Myzomela. By 
 working continuously right through the night till sunrise, 
 the whole of the skins were ready for transport, as well as 
 nearly a hundred species of plants. 
 
 When the coolies were mustered to shoulder the baggage 
 only two or three put in an appearance, the rest had de- 
 serted, and only after impressing into our service some of 
 the women did we manage to start with the food necessary for 
 the journey. It was not with the most amiable feelings towards 
 
IN BURU. 407 
 
 
 
 the Authority at Amboina that I was forced to leave behind 
 me the herbarium I had taken such pains to collect. The 
 skins I carried myself, leaving my own men free to assist with 
 the food supply. Reaching, with our overburdened porters, 
 the little hamlet of Wasilalé, where we had spent a night 
 on our coming, my companion who was suffering from fever, 
 wished to remain till the attack had passed ; we agreed, there- 
 fore, that, as I was anxious to reach Kajeli before the arrival 
 of the Amboina steamer, I should press on in advance with 
 my own servants and baggage, and on arrival at the Bloi 
 river send him the necessary additional porters. On the fore- 
 noon of the fifth day from the Lake I reached the Wai Bloi 
 village, whence I despatched assistance to my companion, and 
 reached Kajeli the same evening. 
 
 I had hoped to be able to get across to the region in the 
 S.E. of the Bay of Kajeli, where alone in Buru the singular 
 Hog-deer (the Babirusa), which is known elsewhere only in 
 Celebes, was to be found; but again I was disappointed for 
 want of porters and rowers. This singular animal uses its 
 curious upturned and hooked teeth, the natives told me, to 
 hold to the bottom of ponds by, when hard pressed by hunters. 
 
 So disappointed was I with my trip to Buru, from which 
 I had hoped much, and might have accomplished much but 
 for a display of absurd and petty jealousy, that I was glad 
 when the steamer of the 12th arrived from Batjian to carry me 
 back to Amboina, which was reached the same evening. 
 
 Finding that Mr. Riedel’s attitude towards us was such as to 
 make it quite useless to attempt to carry on any investiga- 
 tions in the islands of the Moluccas under his sway, I determined 
 to leave for a time to attempt a journey in the interior of 
 the little known region of Timor under the Portuguese crown. 
 It is only fair to state that the conduct of the Resident was 
 utterly repudiated by the Dutch Government in Java, and 
 on my arrival in Batavia, six months afterwards, I received 
 from them the kindest and most ample apologies. 
 
 The steamer, from which I had just disembarked, having 
 to remain two days in Amboina, we hastily packed up our 
 belongings and continued our voyage in the same vessel. The 
 friends through whom this last sojourn in Amboina had been 
 made so full of enjoyment, Mr, Justice and Madame Van 
 
408 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Deventer, the Commander of the troops Colonel Demini, now 
 H.E. the Governor of Acheen—to whom I am indebted for 
 the gift of a large and valuable collection of ethnological 
 objects from Ceram—Major Van der Weide, the Chief of 
 the Medical Staff, and Dr. and Madame Machik, our most 
 kind hosts to whom we owe our introduction to so many 
 delightful friends, paid us the compliment of accompanying 
 us on board to say farewell. 
 
IN BURU. 409 
 
 APPENDIX TO PART YV. 
 
 a 0 tiorermk 
 
 I. List of the Brrps or Burv, compiled from papers by Mr. A. R. 
 
 eet ed el ek feed ped feed 
 
 WALLACE in P. Z, S. 1863, p. 18-36, by Count T. SALVADORI in Ann. 
 del Mus. Civico di Stor, Nat. di Genova, VIII, the Author’s own 
 Collection, and other sowrces. 
 
 . Haliastur leucosternus, Gould. 
 
 Baza rheinwardti, Sch. Timor. Moluccas. 
 
 . Accipiter rubricollis, Wal. Ceram. Gilolo. 
 
 . Accipter cruentus, Gould. Timor. 
 
 . Athene hantu, Wallace. 
 
 . Scops buruensis, Sharpe. 
 
 . Geoffroyus rhodops, G. R. Gr. Amboina. Ceram. Goram. 
 . Eclectus cardinalis, Bodd. Moluccas. New Guinea. 
 
 . Tanygnathus affinis, Wal. Amboina. Ceram. 
 
 gramineus, Gm, 
 
 . Aprosmictus buruensis, Salv. 
 
 . Trichoglossus cyanogrammus, Wagl. Ceram. Papuan Islands. 
 . Eos rubra, Gm. Amboina. Ceram. Matabello Islands. 
 . Caprimulgus macrurus, Horsf. Whole Archipelago. 
 
 . Dendrochelidon mystaceus, Less. Moluccas. New Guinea. 
 . Cacomantis virescens, Briiqg. 
 
 . Eudynamis orientalis, Linn. Ceram. 
 
 . Centropus medius, Bp. Ceram. Gilolo. 
 
 . Scythrops novee-hollandis, Lath. ‘Timor. 
 
 . Sauropatis chloris, Bod. Whole Archipelago. 
 
 . Halcyon sancta, Vig. & Horsf. Eastward Islands. 
 
 . Alcedo ispidoides, Less. Celebes. Gilolo. 
 
 . Tanysiptera acis, Wall. 
 
 . Ceyx Cajeli, Wall. 
 
 . Merops ornatus, Lath. 
 
 . Eurystomus pacificus, Lath. Eastward Islands. 
 
 . Pitta rubrinucha, Wall. 
 
 . Budytes viridis, Gus. 
 
 . Acrocephalus australis, Gould. 
 
 . Cisticola rustica, Wall. 
 
 . Phyllopneuste javanica, Bp. 
 
 . Oriolus buruensis, Quoy & Gains. 
 
 . Criniger mysticalis, Wall. 
 
 . Artamus leucogaster, Val. 
 
 . Myiagra galeata, G. R. Gr. 
 
 . Monarcha loricata, Wall. 
 
 . Rhipidura tricolor, Vieil. Moluccas. New Guinea. 
 
 buruensis, Wal. 
 
 . Pachycephala clio, Wall. 
 
 lineolata, Wall. 
 rufescens, Wall. 
 
 . Dicrurus amboinensis, G. R. Gr. Amboina. Ceram. 
 
410 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 44, Edoliisoma marginatum, Wall. 
 45. Philemon moluccensis, Gm. 
 46. Diczeum erythrothorax, Less. 
 47. Zosterops chloris, Bp. 
 
 48. Myzometa Waxotoinsis, H. O. Forbes. P.Z.S. 1883, p. 116. (Fig. Gould, 
 B. New Guinea, part 18.) 
 
 The full-dress bird is entirely scarlet, the bases of the feathers being 
 black; the wings, the tail, and the preocular spot are black; the upper 
 wing-coverts are black with a scarlet band on the outer webs nearly in 
 the middle, but not extending to the extremity of the feather; the inner 
 margins of the remiges are white; the irides are rich brown; the edges of 
 the lower maxilla yellow; tongue yellow; legs and feet yellowish green ; 
 soles yellow. ’ 
 
 The young male is at first almost entirely greyish brown; the throat is 
 pale grey; but quite below the maxilla and under the eyes the orange-red 
 colour indicates the coming scarlet; the back is greyish-brown, but of a 
 deeper colour in the uropygial region ; the wings and the tail are brown- 
 ish grey; the breast and under tail-coverts greenish fulvous; the margins 
 of the upper wing-coverts pale fawn colour with, in some lights, reflections 
 of red; the margins of the remiges are olive-grey; the throat, the front 
 of the head, the breast, and the uropygial region are the first to assume 
 the scarlet colour of the adult; the angle of the wing has a dirty-white 
 spot, which, with the olive-grey margins of the remiges, are the last to 
 change to black. 
 
 49. Nectarinia proserpina, Wall. 
 
 50. Cyrtostomus zenobia, Less.) Amboina. Ceram, Ké. 
 
 51. Calornis obscura, Bp. Moluccas. 
 
 52. Munia molucca, Moluccas. 'Timor-laut. 
 
 53. Osmotreron aromatica, Gm. Amboina. Ceram. 
 
 54. Myristicivora melanura, G. R. Gr. Moluccas. 
 
 55. Carpophaga perspicillata, Zemm. Batjian. Gilolo. Waigiou. 
 
 56. Ptilopus rivolii, Prev. 
 
 57. viridis, Amboina. Ceram. Goram. 
 
 58. Macropygia amboinensis. 
 
 59. Chalcophaps indica. 
 
 60. Megapodius forsteni, Temm. 
 
 61. wallacii. G. &. Gr. 
 
 62. Glareola grallaria, Temm. Australia. 
 
 63. Charadrius fulvus, Gm. 
 
 64. magnirostris, Lath. Celebes. New Guinea. Timor-laut. 
 
 65. Numenius uropygialis, Gould. 
 
 66. Strepsilas interpres, Linn. 
 
 67. Herodias egretta, Gmel. 
 
 68. Butorides javanica, Horsf. 
 
 69. Bubulcus coromandus, Bodd. 
 
 70. Ardetta flavicollis, Lath. 
 
 71. Nycticorax caledonicus, Gmel. Australia to the Keeling Islands, in the 
 Indian Ocean. 
 
 72. Porphyrio melanopterus, Temm. 
 
 73. Erythra leucomelena, S. Miill. 
 
 74. Gallinula frontata, Wall. 
 
 75 Ortygometra cinerea. 
 
 76. Hypoteenidia philippensis, Linn. 
 
 77. Dendrocygna guttulata, Temm. Ceram. Celebes. 
 
 78. Tadorna radja, Less. Moluccas, New Guinea. Timor-laut. 
 
 79. Podiceps tricolor, G. R. Gr. Moluccas. 
 
 80. Phalocracorax melanoleucus, Vieil. 
 
 81. Sterna melanauchen, Temm. 
 
IN BUI. 411 
 
 
 
 II.—Description of a New Species of TENARIS. 
 
 Tenaris buruensis, Mihi, sp. nov. 
 
 Allied to 7. catops ; differs in having the fore-wings of a less oval form 
 and more broadly marked with brown at the apex, the hind-wings not 
 suffused with ochreous at the base, and the ocellus much larger, with a 
 well-defined pupil, as in 7. diana, Butl.; on the underside it differs in 
 having the apical brown band of the fore-wings broader, and the ocelli on 
 the hind-wings much larger and more broadly bordered with brown; the 
 ground colour of both wings is of a sordid, instead of pure white as in 
 catops. Buru, 16 Noy., 1882, No. 2879. 
 
 Ill. Some PBuruese Words. 
 
 alive deneve hot hinduin 
 banana fuat hungry lappa 
 boat waga head ulun 
 
 bird manut hair ulun-fulun 
 butterfly lahin leaf karumun 
 come komahi man gaba-mana 
 deep dowd night detok 
 
 deaf daprengemoh rattan uah 
 
 dead damata river wai 
 
 Deity Alla-stalla road tuhun 
 
 eat makah stone vatu 
 
 ear anting-anting star gai 
 evening modan slowly mara-mara 
 fire bana speak sarah 
 finger fahan wangan taboo koing 
 flower sawin tree kaun 
 father nama tongue main 
 
 far breman woman fina 
 
 fish ikan wind anin 
 
 foot kadan wood kau 
 
 fruit fuan north Giwa rete 
 great bagu south » lawe 
 give huké east Hangat kehia 
 good gossa west »  sebo 
 hand fahan sun Hangat 
 haste naik-naik moon Fulan 
 
 hold pesse 
 
eae rh, ie 
 ‘ 
 
 - 
 i & 
 bat = 
 Per 2 ‘Va = 
 i an. - 2 : 7 ; , 
 ozs - ; a ‘ ; ‘ ic 
 
 on 
 
 har 
 
 ee > HH 
 pee ets > 04 
 <4 
 
 A 
 
 
 
4 te 
 
 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 SOJOURN AT FATUNABA. 
 
 Arrival at Dilly—Dreadful effects of fever—Search for a site for a house— 
 The town of Dilly an ethnographical studio—Fatunaba—Our residence— 
 The enchanting view thence—Interesting birds and plants—Difficulty 
 with servants—Preparations for departure into the interior—Dialects. 
 
 SAILING on the 15th of December from Amboina, we spent a 
 couple of days in our favourite strolling-ground of Banda, and 
 sighted Timor early on the 19th, anchoring at noon in the 
 harbour of Dilly, where we were heartily welcomed by our 
 old friends the Governor, Major da Franga, and his family. 
 We were above measure saddened to see their terribly 
 emaciated countenances, which proclaimed more forcibly than 
 words, the pestiferous nature of the climate. One of their 
 number—the youngest—already slept under the shade of the 
 Santa Cruz; in all of them the notorious Dilly fever had 
 killed down the cheerful vivacity, buoyancy of spirit and 
 bright eye with which they had stepped ashore in the month 
 of May. With the utmost kindness commodious apartments 
 were offered us in the Palace, but it was perfectly evident 
 that if I wished to accomplish any successful work in Timor, 
 it could not be from Dilly as a centre, constantly exposed to 
 the pestilence that nightly rises from the marshes surrounding 
 the town. 
 
 On proposing to make our residence somewhere on the hills, 
 the Governor suggested to me the neighbourhood of the 
 convent of Lahani, situated a few miles behind the town in a 
 picturesque valley. Though more salubrious than any part of 
 the town itself, the locality was still too much within the 
 fever zone to tempt us to court a renewed attack of the 
 malaria, whose dire effects we had sufficiently experienced in 
 Timor-laut. 
 
416 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Early on the following morning, therefore, on horses kindly 
 provided by the Government Secretary, Mr. Bento da Franga, 
 and accompanied by Senhor Albino—one of the most genial 
 spirits and most influential officials in Dilly, who in his own 
 person was Master of the Port, Director of Public Works, and 
 Colonel of the native troops—we rode up the hills in quest of a 
 location. A damp mist hung about the town as we started, 
 but when we had ridden a few miles southward and ascended 
 some 300 feet, the sun rose and displayed before us a land- 
 scape whose great beauty I was utterly unprepared for, dis- 
 heartened somewhat as I was by the hot sandy town and the 
 depressing effect of the fever-stricken condition of the 
 Europeans. Before we had reached 500 feet above the sea, I 
 felt as if in a new atmosphere, so fresh and exhilirating was 
 the air. Now winding round the flanks of deep glens, the 
 watercourses dug out by the rain (for there was neither path 
 nor road otherwise), now ascending slopes so steep as to make 
 it impossible to sit on horseback without clutching grimly 
 to the mane, now by the edge of sheer precipices, the path 
 brought us, at 1700 feet, to a coffee-garden whose shrubs 
 erowing under deep shade, exhibited the richest display of 
 fragrant blossom that I have ever seen. Close by on a pro- 
 jecting shoulder, over which the summit of the mountain rose 
 1000 feet higher, was a grassy plateau of a few yards in width 
 commanding a view of unexampled beauty, and convenient to 
 a quiet nook, where under the shade of a grove of Kanary 
 trees a sparkling stream fell with a noisy purl over a rocky 
 projection into a shallow pool. A few feet in front of the 
 plateau the ground dropped suddenly into the wooded sides of 
 a precipitous valley, widening out as it descended, till its 
 enclosing spurs broke off abruptly in the green seaward plain, 
 beyond which the white spire of the church, the Governor’s 
 Palace, the grey dwellings of the natives, and the guard-ship 
 lying in the bay, glinted through the palms. Due north full 
 in our face, rose abruptly out of the sea the high blue peaks of 
 Pulo Kambing, while half hidden by the arms of the valley 
 down which our view extended, on the left the lofty eastern 
 buttresses of Allor, and on the right the serrated ridges of 
 Wetter, touched the sky, boundaries within which the blue 
 sea lay calm as an inland lake. No second thoughts were 
 
IN TIMOR. 417 
 
 
 
 
 
 necessary to decide that our dwelling should stand there, and I 
 carried back with me to A—— a sweet-scented rose plucked 
 from a bush growing near the spot as a hopeful token of the 
 goodness of the site. During our descent a largish beetle 
 banged itself against my hat, which I found to my delight 
 to be a specimen of the rare rose-chaffer (Lomaptera timoren- 
 sis), the only known specimen of which, if I mistake not, 
 taken some twenty years before by Mr. Wallace in this very 
 island, has remained unique ever since. On my arrival at the 
 Palace, breakfast was proceeding, and I placed my prize under 
 a glass shade in the room I occupied till my return from the 
 table. Alas, during my absence a servant had cleared away 
 the eos bicho, and I never afterwards saw another speci- 
 men! 
 
 While arrangements, in response to the kind mandate of 
 the Secretary to the native Rajah of Motaél in whose territory 
 the Fatunaba hills lay, were being made for the erection of a. 
 bamboo hut for me, we spent some very interesting days in 
 Dilly. The town, though vastly improved since Mr. Wallace’s 
 visit, was still disappointing in many respects, and its Hibiscus- 
 lined streets looked poor and uninviting. The lack of money 
 to carry out efficiently the necessary municipal arrangements 
 was painfully evident. No more enlightened or energetic 
 régime could be desired than that under the officers at the 
 head of affairs during our sojourn in Dilly, through whom— 
 and I use no mere terms of compliment—had the necessary 
 resources been at their disposal, Portuguese Timor might have 
 - caught the tide of prosperity she has long waited for. 
 
 In going into the various offices and shops I was struck to 
 find all business conducted, not, as in the Dutch possessions, 
 in the lingua franca of the Archipelago, Malay, but in Portu- 
 guese. It has been a feature of all the countries occupied for 
 any length of time by the Portuguese that they have so 
 indelibly impressed their own speech on the rude tribes they 
 have conquered, that its words have remained a part of their 
 language centuries after their rule has passed away. On the 
 other hand, in the Netherlands colonies comparatively few 
 Dutch words have been thus kindly naturalised. In the 
 different quarters of the town native police posted in little 
 
 encampments are always on guard, and during the still nights 
 2 
 
418 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 it was curious to hear trom Timorese throats the Alerto sta! at 
 the stroke of every hour. Besides the official staff very few 
 Europeans live in Dilly; the entire trade of the island being 
 conducted by Arabs and (chiefly) by Chinamen. 
 
 The streets of Dilly itself offer to the traveller a fine studio 
 for ethnological investigation, for a curious mixture of nationa- 
 lities other than European rub shoulders with each other in 
 the town’s narrow limits. Ata single glance one sees that this 
 crowd has few elements in common with that seen at Cupang, 
 in the west. Tall, erect indigenes mingle with Negroes from 
 the Portuguese possessions of Mozambique and the coasts of 
 Africa, most of them here in the capacity of soldiers or. con- 
 demned criminals; tall, lithe East Indians from Goa and its 
 neighbourhood ; Chinese and Bugis of Macassar, with Arabs 
 and Malays and natives from Allor, Savu, Roti, and Flores ; 
 besides a crowd in whose veins the degree of comminglement 
 of blood of all these races would defy the acutest computation. 
 It was interesting to study the character of each in their 
 unconscious ways one among each other. The Hindu, with 
 a stately bearing, carried himself with a natural yet not 
 offensive, air of superiority ; the non-dominating, provident, 
 industrious, unobtrusive Mongolian wended his way, obtain- 
 ing rather than asserting the next place, and was looked on 
 with respect and good-neighbourly consideration ; the sturdy 
 Africano ‘rollicked about, noisy (generally drunk), careless, 
 improvident, hated and feared by the indigenes, who frater- 
 nising with none of the interlopers in their land, and keeping 
 themselves quite to themselves, sat about in small companies 
 under the trees or on the shore, or moved about in their erect, 
 haughty, somewhat sullen and suspicious way, but not at 
 all shunning the town like the West-Timor people. The 
 Arab led his secluded life among his own race, energetic, 
 taking many hard rebuffs with few words, while the Malays, 
 semi-Malays and trading peoples fraternised pretty freely 
 with each other on the shore and over the sides of their 
 praus. 
 
 The shop of Ah Ting, Major of the Chinese, was my 
 favourite study-room while in Dilly, for there during the 
 whole day came and went an endless succession of these 
 nationalities for the purpose of barter or simply to lounge. 
 
IN TIMOR. 419 
 
 
 
 The most marked characteristic of the Timorese is their in- 
 dependence and self-assurance. With the utmost sang froid 
 they would occupy all the chairs reserved for the use of 
 Huropeans, without for a moment, even on the entrance of an 
 official of the Government, thinking of offering to give place, 
 although on being asked they would remove with perfect good 
 will, as if it had been a simple omission on their part not to 
 have done so before. It is innate in him to feel that he is as 
 good as any one else. Towards their own rajahs, however, 
 they show much deference and respect, if not servility. One 
 reerets the difficulty that exists in portraying in written words 
 the life and vigour of these scenes. 
 
 It was interesting to observe the wide contrast between 
 the character of the Mongolian and that of the Timorese. 
 The former with extreme patience and perfect good humour, 
 over and over again taking down, exhibiting, putting up, 
 discussing the price of the same piece of goods with the 
 same individual, who, regardless of time, with him the most 
 inexhaustible element in nature, would break off without a 
 word, to examine a score of different things that might 
 chance to catch his eye, or to join in some discussion carried 
 on by his friends away in the street perhaps, by-and-bye 
 to return to only to break off again from his bargaining, 
 which cannot possibly be concluded till one after another of 
 his companions has in whispered consultation given his idea 
 of the transaction under consideration. . When at last he has 
 made up his mind to purchase or exchange his produce for, 
 say, cloth of so many arm-stretches, if he is not of more than 
 ordinary stature, he brings the very tallest man of his ac- 
 quaintance to be his standard of measurement, who considers 
 it a duty to his friend to adopt every possible device to 
 expand his chest and arms. Placing the end of the web at 
 the tip of the longest finger of his left hand, and making a 
 gigantic inhalation, he runs his right arm out to the fullest 
 extremity of his finger-tips, invariably succeeding in getting 
 an inch or two more than he ought as he picks up the mark, 
 from which he will on no account, even though his eyes be 
 never taken off the spot, remove his finger till the cloth has 
 been cut. Should by chance he move his finger the slightest 
 degree, the whole measurement must be done over again, and 
 
 2 BAZ 
 
420 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 even after the portion he has purchased has been severed it 
 must be measured several times over both by himself and his 
 friends. The suspicious Timorese has wasted his (to him) 
 valueless time, and has satisfied for the moment his fancy; 
 the Mongolian has a profit both on the produce he barters for, 
 as well as on the commodity he disposes of, and by degrees 
 amasses riches which the other can never attain to. 
 
 On Christmas Day, 1882, with two natives of Goa as 
 servants, the only men who could be persuaded to venture 
 among the hills with me, I removed to Fatunaba to super- 
 intend the erection of my bungalow, making my temporary 
 quarters in a native shed in the coffee-gardens. 
 
 As the royal salute of twenty-one guns boomed from the 
 fort below me on New Year's Day, I was reminded that I ought 
 to be having a holiday; but had I left the men, even for a few 
 hours, not one of them would have been found on my return, 
 and days would have been required to hunt them up. On the 
 3rd, A. joined me, and by the 6th the house was completed 
 —though the grass roof did not look at all rain-proof—rather 
 to the astonishment of the Timorese, who perhaps had never 
 done so continuous a piece of work in their lives before. 
 When the work was quite finished they demanded a pig to 
 celebrate the event, in accordance with eustom; but as I had 
 neither flocks nor herds they had to forage in the neighbour- 
 hood,-whence one of them returned shortly with a nice fat 
 specimen on the point of his spear, which, despite our most 
 urgent protestations and threats, they cut up and divided in 
 their own savage way on our new and deliciously clean 
 verandah. By a bribe of kanipa (gin) all round we were 
 relieved of the pleasure of seeing them cook and devour it. 
 
 By next day, all our baggage and the implements of our 
 trade and profession having been dragged up the cliff-like face 
 of these “'Tiring-rocks,” as “ Fatunaba” signifies, our house 
 was set in order. Notwithstanding its want of elegance, and 
 an ominous lean that it had to one side, our pile dwelling 
 with its three rooms opening in a line on to the verandah, 
 was very comfortable and very convenient. An extra apart- 
 ment was fitted up to serve for a bath-room in bad weather, 
 when the delicious natural shower-bath in the stream below 
 our door couldn’t be used. 
 
IN TIMOR. 421 
 
 We were now ready for work; but before beginning in 
 earnest, we decided to take one undisturbed day of rest. It 
 was a. delightful holiday of inactivity. We were both 
 enchanted with the outlook from our verandah, whence a 
 single turn of the eyes commanded a wide and varied scene. 
 It would be as useless to attempt as impossible to describe 
 the beauty and our intense enjoyment, of the hourly effects 
 from dawn to twilight, the myriad combinations of the sun- 
 light on the near hills, on the surface of the sea, and on the 
 island peaks of Allor, Kambing, Wetter, whose ridges and 
 crests rising at varying distances caught the sunlight at 
 every angle and in every degree of intensity. We felt that 
 it was well worth not a few privations to live day after day in 
 the face of a scene of such surpassing loveliness. 
 
 My Goa men were both able to shoot, but as neither of them 
 could skin at all well, my ornithological collections got on . 
 very slowly, for I myself gave the most of my time to the 
 gathering of plants, which had not been at all carefully collected 
 in Timor, while of the ornithology of the island, Mr. Wallace 
 had already given us the chief features. Though no new 
 birds were shot, those obtained were of great interest to us, 
 especially the kakuak (Philemon timorensis), whose curious 
 bawling cry in the gum-trees was invariably the first to 
 awaken the silence of the dawn and the last to break off at 
 night, and which had the exact habits of its relative which I 
 discovered at Larat (P. témorlaoensis), As there, so here also, 
 a species of Oriole, mimicking it in colour and in form so 
 closely as to be almost indistinguishable when both birds are 
 in the hand, was constantly seen feeding in the same tree with 
 it. That in each of these different islands of the Austro- 
 Malayan region an Oriole should seek protection under the 
 eegis of the habits and strength of this one genus of birds 
 and of no other equally powerful or fleet group, and that in 
 the islands of the neighbouring region, where true Orioles 
 abound, it has not been found to occur, is one of the most 
 curious and remarkable facts in the whole of Natural History. 
 Neopsittacus euteles, a gorgeous little green-and-scarlet parrot, 
 and the fine white cockatoo (Cacatua sulphuwrea)—the males 
 with black, and the females with red eyes—abounded round 
 our dwelling, and gave us daily great pleasure by their 
 
422 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 liveliness and by the snowiness of their plumage. One very 
 bold visitor we could not bring ourselves to destroy even to 
 add to our collection, the lovely scarlet Myzomela vulnerata, 
 which, when we were quiet, often hopped down even on the 
 rail of our verandah from its favourite perch on the top of 
 a guin-tree close by. A Mussenda frondosa bush, and the tall 
 grass-stems on the other side of the path from our hut. were 
 constantly resorted to by several species of Finch, the pigmy 
 Amadina insularis, the Munia pallida, and the Estrelda 
 flavidiventris. 
 
 My own hunting grounds were the slopes above our hut, 
 where the vegetation was very different from that which I had 
 hitherto been accustomed to in the richly-clad western islands 
 or in the humid Moluccas. I can scarcely say that we had 
 any true forest, for the trees rarely entwined their crowns over- 
 head, and the ground was covered with sparse grass sufficient 
 to give it a park-like look. ‘he precipitous ravines afforded 
 the only really dense vegetation that existed where out I laid 
 the foundation of a promising herbarium. My means of dry- 
 ing the specimens, however, were very limited, as I could not 
 manage at that time to requisition more labour to erect a 
 drying-house ; and unless in these regions plants are dried 
 by fire heat, they become mouldy in a very short time even 
 with the most careful attention, and are then a terrible heart- 
 break to the collector. I was specially gratified in gathering 
 on the bare hot clayey face of the mountain a lovely little 
 sun-dew (Drosera lunata) growing luxuriantly in extensive 
 patches. Accustomed to gather its kin at home in boggy 
 heaths, I was surprised to find it flourishing in so dry an 
 exposure; but on digging it up I found it held a store of 
 moisture against hard times in the tuberous roots with which 
 it was provided. 'This was a characteristic of not a few of the 
 herbaceous plants growing on these arid slopes. Another 
 plant, also of a home-family, one of the Vacciniacee afforded 
 us a rare pleasure, like a breath from home every time we 
 ascended to 2000 feet. This shrub, of an undescribed species 
 I am delighted to find, grew in the ravines in the form of a 
 tall bush, and has an open tross of rich scarlet waxy bells. Its 
 low habitat in so hot a region is somewhat surprising; but 
 the amount of “grey beard” lichen with which, like the rest 
 
IN TIMOR. 423 
 
 of the vegetation about it, it was loaded, told how cool and 
 moist an atmosphere it was living in. | 
 Among the tall grass fields one of the commonest orchids 
 was the white sweet-scented Habenaria susannx, remarkable 
 for the great length of itsnectaries. Diurnal lepidoptera were 
 noticeably very few at Fatunaba; but at night more moths 
 (belonging only to a few species) than at any other station 
 where I had lived, crowded to my lamp. Among them the 
 _ most abundant were two moderate-sized Noctuzx, a new species 
 of Ophiodes and Remigia virbia, and a largish species of 
 Humming-bird moth (Protoparce orientalis). I made it a 
 point daily to watch the fertilisation of these Habenarias. 
 They were invariably cross-fertilised during the night by a 
 moth which, as it always left a few of its hairs on the stigma, 
 I feel certain is the same as one and perhaps both of the 
 Noctuze just mentioned, but the tongue of both species is 
 far too short ever to reach more than half-way down towards 
 the minute drop of sweetness concealed at the very tip 
 of the nectary. The large pollinia in many cases had been 
 carried only as far as one of the petals or to a neighbouring 
 leaf, as if the moth, finding the burden too great for it, had 
 rested there, and succeeded in freeing itself of them. 
 Collecting was carried on till the end of February with all 
 the vigour possible, my herbarium especially rapidly increasing 
 in size; but I had fully expected to have been by then far in 
 the interior. ‘The weather, however, had been very disastrous 
 for us, and we had had much difficulty with our servants. It 
 was a weary tramp up to Fatunaba from Dilly, and as all our 
 provisions had to be carried by our own men, they very soon 
 tired of the exertion that this entailed, and of living so far 
 from the kanipa stores of the town. One of the Goa men 
 was an inveterate toper, and had very soon to be discharged. 
 His place was taken by a younger brother, who proved a good 
 and willing servant; but he could not stand the cold nights of 
 the mountains, so when he left in ill-health, followed soon 
 after by his brother dismissed for larceny, their place was 
 filled by an Allor youth, who knew a little Malay. Goma 
 was a servant faithful as a dog, strong and willing to work, 
 but having not the slightest idea of European ways, which he 
 had never seen, he afforded us much amusement, if not much 
 
424. A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 profit, by his willing attempts to serve us. As he was only 
 delaying in Dilly, for a favourable wind to go home by, we 
 soon lost him, and for a whole fortnight—days of privation 
 anything but slight—we had to rely on ourselves for the 
 performance of all our domestic duties, till our kind helper, 
 Senhor Albino, sent us a Timorese, the son of a chief in one of 
 the kingdoms of the interior, who had been for some time a 
 prisoner in Dilly, but whose freedom was restored to him on 
 the sole condition of his serving us faithfully as long as we 
 wanted him. 
 
 The results of the haste with which our thatched roof was 
 finished off soon became evident enough. At times not a single 
 spot in the hut—except where our bed, roofed over with a 
 waterproof sheet, stood—was dry. Everything of value, there- 
 fore, that we possessed, food, books, plants, gunpowder, clothes, 
 had to be stored on or under this piece of furniture, so that we 
 derived little rest or comfort from it. The repeated gales bent 
 the hut itself so far that it would have been carried down the 
 valley but for a couple of gum-trees which I had to fell and 
 prop it up with. Our food supply was wretchedly poor and 
 very scanty, often necessitating a purchasing expedition to 
 Dilly to replenish our stores—visits which in our solitary life 
 were red-letter days from the few hours of European inter- 
 course with our kind friends at the palace which they brought 
 us, for which we invariably paid dearly, however, in fever 
 attacks—in A.’s case of a very violent kind—a few days after 
 our return. Notwithstanding all these drawbacks, we had no 
 lack of enjoyment of a most serene description in this rough 
 and ricketty abode—if in nothing else, certainly in the inex- 
 pressibly delightful scene ever before us under the morning 
 and evening sun, and in the bright moonlight nights. 
 
 With the natives we had a good deal of intercourse, as they 
 came often past our hut on their way to Dilly wth their 
 produce—chiefly Indian corn and European potatoes. Their 
 character did not gain favourably on us. If their demands for 
 kanipa were not complied with, they took themselves off in a 
 very offensive and threatening way, muttering curses as they 
 went. If not watched closely, they were apt to think that 
 various useful or attractive objects of ours were belongings of 
 theirs. Among them some had frizzy, some had straight hair, 
 
IN TIMOR. 425 
 
 some tall, others again short and stumpy—while in other 
 characteristics they varied so much that it is impossible to 
 believe them to belong to a pure race. 
 
 The weather by the middle of March having showed signs of 
 clearing, the Governor with great kindness gave orders for an 
 escort to be ready to accompany me into the interior as soon as 
 travelling could be considered safe. 
 
 March 29th.—To-morrow, at last, I shall be able to start, my 
 transport ponies having arrived this evening. To my dismay, 
 however, only half as many as are necessary for my baggage. 
 On inquiring of the Hindu officer in charge, I find that it 
 would require a week to collect the extra number I wish. 
 The only thing now possible is taking only a portion of the 
 botanical drying-paper which is bulky and heavy, to advance 
 at once to Bibigugu and send back for the rest. The saddle 
 for the pony I am to ride has been forgotten also. The 
 escort consists of the Hindu officer, who is to act as my guide, 
 interpreter and adviser, and is charged with full authority 
 over the rajahs in whose kingdoms I may stay, a Hindu 
 corporal, and an official of the Rajah of Motael’s kingdom 
 through which we first pass, who is to be relieved by a like 
 officer from each kingdom in which I may sojourn. He 
 must attend from his own Rajah’s headquarters to the head- 
 quarters of the next Rajah, and is responsible for every item, 
 not of my baggage only, but of my person also, till relieved by 
 his fellow in the neighbouring kingdom. My own authority 
 is ‘a friendly and most plenary document addressed to all the 
 Rajahs that I may meet in the interior. 
 
 The whole of East Timor is apportioned out under certain 
 chiefs called Leoreis, each of whom is independent and abso- 
 lute in his own kingdom. At present there are forty-seven of 
 these; but many of them possess far greater influence than, 
 and exercise a sort of vassalage over, the others. Hach Reno, 
 or kingdom, is divided into districts each of which is called a 
 Suku, ruled over by a Dato, who receives his orders from 
 the Leorei by a special officer appointed for that purpose. 
 The Dato has under him two other officials, a Cabo and a 
 Tenente * who assist him in the regulation of the Suku. 
 
 Nearly every kingdom has its own dialect. Crawford says 
 
 * These terms are probably adopted from the Portuguese, 
 
426 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 that in Timor there are forty different Janguages. I am not 
 in a position to say whether they are dialects or languages; 
 but I observed that in some districts the people did not 
 understand the speech of their neighbours. 
 
 I feel quite anxious at leaving A. here alone. Female 
 servants are impossible to be found in Dilly; but the old 
 woman who looks after the coffee-gardens near us, has agreed 
 to sleep in the hut within her call, and to assist her in her 
 few domestic duties. She herself will not hear of any one 
 else, and scouts the idea of danger from the natives, and is 
 quite brave over it. Our friends at the palace desire her to 
 make her home with them, but the fever risks of Dilly are too 
 great. Ido not like the neighbours over much, and am far 
 from comfortable in the idea of leaving her so unprotected. 
 
IN TIMOR. 427 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 ON THE ROAD TO BIBICUGU. 
 
 Start for the interior—Vegetation on the way—Roads—Camp on Erlura— 
 Mt. ehula—Kelehoko and its flora—Pass a night under the eaves of a 
 native dwelling—Huts in trees—Bed of the River Komai—Pass a night 
 on Ligidoik Mountain—Character of country—Valley of the Waimatang 
 Kaimauk—Singular scene—Unburied relatives—Burial rites—Grave- 
 sticks—Rites attending a king’s death—Swangies—Lose our way— 
 Flora on Turskain mountain—Rajah of Turskain’s—Botanical. excur- 
 sions—The rites of the sacred Luli and the choosing of warriors—The 
 Rajah. 
 
 AFTER many hours spent in arranging the burdens of the 
 
 different ponies and men, I despatched the cavalcade at eleven 
 
 o'clock (March 30th), The officer expressed the greatest asto- 
 nishment at all absence of timidity on A.’s part on being 
 left alone; but, on being reminded that she was an “ English 
 
 Senhora,” he appeared satisfied that the fact was sufficient to 
 
 explain the phenomenon. He encouraged her with assurances 
 
 that there was nothing to fear for my safety, swearing to her on 
 the cross-hilt of his sword that if anything befell me it would 
 be over his body, and solemnly charged also the little old 
 woman who was to be her factotum, that if she failed in her duty 
 she might expect, on my return, all the calamities that her 
 superstition could picture to her. Having constructed for 
 
 myself a saddle and stirrups out of my Ulster coat and a 
 
 rope looped at both ends, and given A. a last assuring word, 
 
 I followed the cavalcade, ascending the well-known path 
 
 above our hut to 2500 feet, where, turning eastward along 
 
 the summit of the ridge, we travelled parallel to the coast, on 
 our way, in the first instance, to the Rajah of Turskain’s. 
 
 The vegetation was almost exclusively Melastomacex, with 
 acacias, tamarinds, and gum-trees, while in the narrowest and 
 most inaccessible gorges tall graceful tree-ferns abounded 
 among thick shrubbery, whose components I could not 
 
428 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 identify, and in many places broad areas of Setaria and Pas- 
 palum grass took the place of all other vegetation. 
 
 No such thing as a road exists anywhere in Timor. All 
 the paths follow the knife ridges of the hills, or skirt along 
 the face of precipitous slopes, invariably in deep ditch-like 
 trenches, out of which a stumble would fatally land either 
 horse or man hundreds of feet below. The Timor horses are 
 wonderfully sure- footed, and seem quite accustomed to these 
 difficult ways. 
 
 Having started late in the forenoon, it was found impossible 
 to reach, before sunset, the hut where we had intended to 
 camp. As we had no food with us for the men, we were com- 
 pelled to practise the highwayman’s art on the numerous 
 natives loaded with maize, whom we met going towards 
 Dilly. From each of them, the rajah’s officer—an official of 
 their own king—demanded a few heads, which after some 
 display of authority, were generally given up. After several 
 acts of this kind, I was surprised to see that those meeting 
 us even an hour later, on catching sight of us a long distance 
 off, darted aside down the first declivity out of our way, and, 
 laden though they were, generally managed to escape. The 
 intelligence of our coming had been conveyed to them from 
 the nearest hill-top the first mulcted people had reached. 
 It is astonishing with what ease and accuracy the Timorese 
 can convey intelligence from one mountain crest to another. 
 Nearly every man carries in his wallet (which he never 
 travels without) a short wooden pipe, by whose curious notes 
 he can convey signal sounds to a long distance; but by the 
 unaided voice they are able, in a series of what seem only 
 demoniacal howls, to hold long dialogues from peak to peak 
 across wide valleys. It was in this way doubtless that our 
 men were nearly done out of their supper, which according to 
 the laws of their kingdom the officer was within his right in 
 demanding. 
 
 Reaching about five o’clock a little plateau, known as 
 Erlura, at 3500 feet above the sea, where we found a well and 
 several tall gum-trees with their stems hollowed out by fire, 
 we camped for the night. After seeing the baggage stowed 
 inside the trees, I occupied the time till dark in assiduously 
 collecting the herbaceous plants which dotted the ground. The 
 
IN TIMOR. 429 
 
 district being notorious for robbers, we picketed the horses 
 at dark within a quadrangle of fires—not an unnecessary pre- 
 caution; for in the middle of the night we heard very sus- 
 picious low whistle-calls several times repeated, which gave 
 
 
 
 SIGNALLING PIPE, 
 
 vigour to the “ Alerto!” of our guard. The Timorese are very 
 clever horse-stealers, I understand, and, by abducting them 
 off from the very side of their owners, the astuter thieves 
 among them have obtained the reputation of being Swangies, 
 who have the power of making their bodies invisible. 
 
430 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Next morning at sunrise, after I had taken a round of 
 bearings, we started in a south-easterly direction, continually 
 climbing as on the previous day, along hog’s-back ridges and 
 round precipitous gorges. On the bare red clay of Mount 
 Tehula, at 4200 feet, I gathered, with great delight, a new 
 species of Hpacridacex a heath-like plant, which formed inter- 
 rupted shrubberies all over its summit. From Tehula by a 
 shallow saddle, we reached Kelehoko, 4600 feet, where un- 
 horsing to rest for an hour, I made a most interesting collec- 
 tion of plants, many of them belonging to European families 
 and genera, violets (V. patriniz), geraniums, bright azure 
 Campanulaceze on the bare red soil, oxalis, and a new species 
 of Orchids, Diwris fryana of Ridley; and near it, among the 
 grass, a new bright species of the Scrophulariacex, belonging 
 to the genus Buchnera. Hence winding down the valley of 
 the Komai, on foot, as the path was very steep and unsafe, we 
 reached about half-way the house-cluster of a native known 
 to my guide, who had been over all this country during 
 various revolts. 
 
 As it was beginning to rain, we decided to camp here for 
 the night, and asked to occupy a part of the man’s house. 
 To this he replied that his dwelling was at our disposal, but 
 for our own sakes he had rather we did not go inside, as a 
 child of his had been buried only the day before, and he was 
 ashamed of the smell left by the dead body; but we might, if 
 we liked, occupy the platform below the eaves. We accord- 
 ingly spent the night in this rather cramped situation, com- 
 pletely protected from rain, and in the morning discovered 
 that the whole story of the child’s death was a myth; but I 
 have no doubt that we were more comfortable outside, if the 
 wreaths of smoke that oozed through the wicker-work sides of 
 the house gave us any idea of the purity of the atmosphere 
 within. 
 
 The Timorese, differing from the peoples of the Indo- 
 Malayan region or of the Tenimber Islands, do not live in 
 villages, but more like the Buruese, in a cluster of family 
 residences, or in isolated habitations often far distant from 
 any other dwelling. This Fatete homestead, a single family 
 abode of one or two houses, was placed in the centre of an 
 enclosure strongly fenced in by high palings made of longi- 
 
IN TIMOR. 431 
 
 tudinal planks and logs of trees intertwined with growing 
 bamboos and thorny shrubs. The gateway was closed by a 
 door of a broad solid slab of wood, swung on its lintels by the 
 two pivots left projecting at the upper and lower corners, 
 and secured by a bar of a slender tree. Just inside the gate 
 stood a little shed, occupied every night by a sentinel on 
 guard, and where I observed a “dummy ” head on the top of 
 a pole as a warning to thieves and robbers of the reception 
 that awaited them. Within the enclosure were stockaded 
 wallowing-pools for the owner’s buffaloes, and stalls for his 
 goats and ponies in times of alarm, while the ubiquitous pig, 
 his most treasured possession, had its-usual quarters beneath 
 the dwelling. The houses were of bamboo, the walls—in 
 which there were no windows—being of several layers of 
 wicker-work matting, raised several feet off the ground on 
 strong pillars. The floor projected some feet beyond the walls 
 all round, forming the platform under the eaves, on which we 
 camped. Their dwellings are not divided into apartments, 
 but there are stall-like divisions, which can be closed by 
 curtains, and are used for sleeping in. A spot is always railed 
 off for the sacred (lulz) spear, knife and gun, before which 
 the head of the house makes a propitiatory offering to speed 
 his particular undertakings. Outside the enclosure, in the 
 tops of the taller of the gum-trees, were curious miniature 
 huts, which I at first thought, from the absence of any 
 ladder, might .be pigeon-houses; but they turned out to be 
 their granaries—reached by climbing the trees—and the 
 depositories of the more valuable portion of their house- 
 hold effects, such as plates, bowls of European make, and 
 cloths. They are invariably placed in high trees whose 
 trunk was divided into four divaricating arms, on which 
 two diagonal planks can be fixed to support a firm floor. 
 They are said to be little subject to the depredations of 
 rats; but they seemed most tempting objects to every prowl- 
 ing thief. It may be, however, that they are protected by the 
 sanctity of the taboo—or, in their own language, are luli. 
 Next day, descending by the usual ditch-like paths and 
 zig-zageging down land-slipped gorges we reached, at 3000 
 feet above the sea, the bed of the river Komai, a wide channel 
 several hundred yards in breadth, paved with soft blue-black 
 
432 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 
 
 pebbles and sand, through which instead of one large river 
 numerous small independent streamlets, some of them pure 
 and sparkling, but most of them of a blue inky hue, were 
 meandering their course. A few of these slaty stones were 
 of red or yellowish colour; I myself observed no granite, 
 but my boy brought me a porphyritic nodule. Our way lay 
 down the river-bed, the only good road we had yet traversed, 
 between banks, from 100 to 150 feet in height of perfectly 
 horizontal stratified pebbles, laid down in the bed of some 
 former lake or estuary through which the river, by the slow 
 elevation of the land is now cutting its way. ‘Tall casuarinas, 
 loaded with staghorn-ferns, grew at the bases of these pebbly 
 cliffs and dotted the dry portions of the river-bed. 
 
 When we had reached a point 2000 feet above the sea, we 
 left the river, turning to the right up the long steep slope of 
 the Ligidoik Mountain, on whose top at 3400 feet we unhorsed 
 to lunch close to the barricaded dwelling of a sub-chief of the 
 Motaél kingdom in which we still were. Notwithstanding 
 the threats of the official of their own kingdom in attendance 
 on me, we could not succeed in purchasing anything of an 
 eatable kind except some Indian corn for the men, and had to 
 be content with the meagre provisions I had myself brought. 
 Just as we were about to resume our march rain commenced to 
 fall in torrents, compelling us to demand shelter, which was 
 ungraciously conceded to us, as on the previous night below 
 the eaves of a most wretched hovel. 
 
 From our elevated position the whole country within the 
 sweep of the eye was of a most singular conformation, being 
 entirely composed of knife-edges, peaks, and precipitous slopes 
 of deep valleys. It surprised me to observe that it was the 
 most inaccessible peaks and isolated crags that were crowned 
 by dwellings, hidden from sight generally among groves of 
 trees. It was easy to see that I was travelling in a lawless 
 land where every man’s hand was against his neighbour, and 
 where therefore every man was constantly and restlessly on the 
 outlook. 
 
 On the following morning (April 2), after I had taken a 
 series of bearings to all the prominent peaks, we continued 
 our journey south-eastward, descending 450 feet to the Vekélé 
 stream, only to wend our way up again 590 feet to the crest of 
 
IN TIMOR. 433 
 
 Lebetutu, over a bleak, stony, almost grassless country. No 
 sooner had we reached the crest than we began to descend 
 once more—but less abruptly—into the wide valley of the 
 Wai-Matang-Kaimauk. The change to a new set of muscles 
 was at first very agreeable, but ere long I found myself wish- 
 ing that we were going up, the very reverse of what I was 
 praying for just before we came over the ridge above us. 
 There was no improvement in the road, which as hitherto 
 wound along in an interminable drain, barely wide enough 
 for single file, worn in some places so deep and narrow 
 as to admit only with difficulty our baggage-laden ponies, 
 which, startled by the grating of their burdens on the sides of 
 the defile, were constantly bolting—crashing along headlong, 
 till their panniers were left behind, or themselves jammed 
 fast utterly blocking the way, as the towering mass of the 
 mountain on the one hand, and the precipitous cliffs on the 
 other, or precipitous cliffs on both hands, prevented all passage 
 forwards or backwards. It seems to me impossible for a proper 
 road ever to be made across the island, for, from the moun- 
 tainous character of the country and the unstable nature of 
 the soil, the best constructed way must inevitably disappear 
 each rainy season. “The land of Timor is always falling,” is 
 the natives’ own account of the country. 
 
 Looking down into this valley, the scenery was of a most 
 singular and striking description. The river was itself the 
 most prominent feature, ike a livid blue-black band drawn 
 athwart the landscape, clouding rather than enlivening it; 
 on the further side the mountains, sculptured into peaks and 
 crags, rose so precipitously as to seem insurmountable, while 
 their slopes were disfigured by perpendicular livid blue escarp- 
 ments thrown down by landslips into the valley; on our own 
 side of the river several giant, wildly picturesque trihedral 
 pillars of rock, all of them of nearly equal height, reared their 
 crags above the level of the mountain slope for some 500 feet. 
 Between two of these great pillars the homestead of the Dato 
 of the Suku of Sauo, was most romantically and enticingly 
 situated, and as it was already late in the afternoon, I decided 
 to claim his hospitality for the night. 
 
 Before reaching his homestead I noted at a scented lemon 
 shrub the first butterfly—a Papilio—I had seen since leaving 
 
 Ze Ee 
 
434 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 Fatunaba. Indeed, life of all kinds had been exceedingly 
 conspicious by its absence; save a scarlet T'richoglossus or a 
 cockatoo flying across our path, and a few crows at Erlura, I 
 had seen no birds, and the vegetation since crossing the 
 Ligidoik river had been very poor indeed. A few casuarinas, 
 acacias, gum-trees, and some rough-leayed Composite being 
 the only vegetable forms. The 
 slopes on the other side looked 
 somewnat more tree-dotted, how- 
 ever, but the bare red ground 
 displayed itself over a large part 
 of itsarea. A few hundred yards 
 from the homestead gate we 
 passed a granary-looking hut in 
 the top of a high tree with a 
 number of bundles dangling from 
 its floor. On inquiring what they 
 were, I was surprised to be told 
 that they were dead bodies— 
 folded at the thighs, and wrapped 
 in mats—relatives of the Dato 
 waiting to be buried ! 
 
 Entering through a high-barred— 
 gateway, we found the homestead 
 to consist of eight or ten well- 
 built houses of a somewhat dif- 
 ferent style of architecture from 
 that prevalent near the coast. 
 Surrounded by a high stone wall 
 surmounted by a cactus hedge, 
 re and built on a rocky buttress jut- 
 TREE-HUTS WITH DEAD BODIES SUS- ting out over a precipitous gorge, 
 
 Bish its ste it was unapproachable except on 
 the one side by which we entered. When we had settled in the 
 empty guarda to which we were at once conducted by the Dato 
 himself, the first civility and token of friendship that passed 
 between the chief and my Hindu guide, as representing me, 
 was the exchange of siri, pinang, and chalk. Hach prepared 
 his quantum, and stuffed it into his mouth, but before adding 
 to it the chalk, of which each had taken the proper quantity 
 
 
 
‘OOVS JO OLY AHL 40 GTIOHDNOULS AHL 
 
 "Per abod aovs oF, 
 
 
 
- 
 
 
 
 
 
IN TIMOR. 435 
 
 into the hollow of his hand, “Maman?” (may I eat? ), said 
 my guide, with an obeisance, following the proper etiquette, 
 to which the Dato replied, “Maman” (eat). This little 
 ceremony had an instant effect in loosening the tongues of our 
 hosts, who kept up an unbroken dialogue till long after dark. 
 Just at sunset we were surprised by the intrusion of a man, 
 who beat a long and vigorous tatoo on a drum suspended in the 
 centre of the building, to give, as was explained to us, informa- 
 tion to the neighbourhood that the remains of the father and 
 of some other relatives of the Dato—an old white-haired man 
 —which had been dangling some thirty years in the tree-top 
 which we had just passed, were at last to be buried, and that 
 every night till the feast was ready the drum would be beat at 
 sunset. I had observed an unwonted activity of rice and 
 Indian-corn stamping, and remarked the wealth of pigs and 
 goats that we had to make our way through as we entered, all 
 now explained as preparations against the day of burial. 
 When a member of a family dies, at least three duties are 
 imperative on the surviving relatives before the body can be 
 buried. First, every blood relative without exception is bound 
 to give, either in person or by proxy, a gift of greater or less 
 magnitude to the deceased. On arriving where the dead body 
 is, each donor places his gifts on or near the corpse, and 
 within its hearing fires off as many shots of bis gun as he can 
 afford, the greater the number the greater is his respect, it is 
 supposed, for the departed. The other essentials are a death 
 and-burial feast. If the defunct have been a lowly person 
 with few relatives, a small feast will suffice to satisfy the 
 demands of custom. If, however, he have been of some rank, 
 with many relatives and a wide acquaintance, these must be on 
 a scale commensurate with his position; and so serious are the 
 demands that custom requires, that the death feast alone often 
 reduces the family to abject poverty, necessitating the delay 
 of the funeral for months, years, or even a whole century, till 
 such time, in fact, as the relatives and descendants are able to 
 provide the necessary costly feast. The corpse, which has 
 been lying where it died during these first tedious cere- 
 monies, is then folded at the hips, bundled up in a mat and 
 suspended by a cord below the floor of the curious dovecot- 
 like huts in the trees which I have spoken of, to wait inter- 
 2F 2 
 
436 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 ment; or in some districts it is placed on a bier in a little 
 hut prepared for it near the dwelling of the nearest relative. 
 If a son die before his father’s remains have been committed 
 to the ground, the primary and imperative duty of burial de- 
 volves on his heir with his other obligations. The knowledge 
 of “who is who” among the various dangling remnants of 
 humanity is handed down from each inheritor to each suc- 
 ceeding heir of the obligation; when at last sufficient buffaloes, 
 pigs, goats, Indian corn, rice, and kanipa for a feast in accord- 
 ance with the rank of the deceased have been amassed, the 
 body, in such condition as it happens to be, is laid, attired and 
 ornamented in its best gagments and finery, in a short wooden 
 coffin dug out of a block of wood, along with the various gifts 
 which the relatives had perhaps decades before bestowed on 
 it, and the whole, wrapped in a “ patola,” or ornamented cere- 
 cloth, is committed to the grave amid the firing of guns and 
 the ae of women. 
 
 From the time the funeral company arrives, which is 
 generally many days before that actually appointed for the 
 interment, buffaloes and horses, sheep and pigs are ruthlessly 
 butchered to satisfy the insatiable appetites of these savages, 
 who devour it half-cooked, and whose drink throughout the 
 whole period of the ceremonies is confined to the strongest 
 and coarsest arrack. Under the influence of this stimulant 
 the women starting up, and falling into a ring, each beating 
 a round drum, commence to dance, going round and round in 
 a circle, at first slowly, then by degrees faster and faster, till 
 they become thoroughly excited. Shouting and bawling out 
 unintelligible words or sentences, they constantly increase the 
 pace of their prance and the din of their voices, till the men 
 at last becoming excited also, dress themselves in their war- 
 feathers and accoutrements, and brandishing their swords, join 
 in the drunken and demoniacal scene, which continues to 
 increase in fury till the wearied-out frames of the performers 
 sink through utter exhaustion, which it often requires, so mad 
 is their frenzy, a whole circuit of the sun to produce. In such 
 a scene the Timorese appear as pure savages. 
 
 When these orgies at last come to a close, the skulls and 
 cheekbones of the slain herds are strewn over the ground 
 among the stones heaped upon it at the time of burial; or in 
 
IN TIMOR. 437 
 
 the case of persons of rank or importance the jaw-bones and 
 horns are inserted into holes one above the other in a tall 
 pole, whose number indicates the eminence of him who sleeps 
 below. Such a memento stood within this Sauo homestead 
 enclosure to mark the resting-place of the Dato’s grandfather. 
 
 When a king dies the chief officers of the kingdom are 
 summoned to pronounce that he is really dead. As soon as 
 
 
 
 
 
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 b= 7 
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 XZ, 
 
 ae 
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 SS 
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 SS 
 pea 
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 net 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sa 
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 See 
 
 GRAVE STICK IN THE HOMESTEAD OF SAUO, 
 
 this declaration has been made the whole family, who have 
 till then preserved complete silence, break out into cries and 
 lamentations. For seven days no work is permitted to be 
 done within the limits of the kingdom, no betel or siri may be 
 used, and the people must cut their hair in token of mourning. 
 For weeks and even months the relatives of the defunct ruler 
 continue to arrive, and as each one must view the corpse as it 
 
438 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 died, it has become by then a mass of putrefaction emitting a 
 pestilential odour, which to the Timorese gives no apparent 
 discomfort. As during this period whoever arrives must be 
 feasted, every buffalo, horse and pig that the family possess 
 have often to be slaughtered, reducing them to absolute 
 poverty. On the conclusion of these death ceremonies the 
 family leave the house, but the body remains there either on a 
 bier or deposited in a large coffin and guarded by the officials 
 of the kingdom, till the relatives can afford to provide the 
 burial feast. Tull such time the king is supposed to be asleep 
 and no successor with reigning powers can be appointed. 
 
 Like the Australians, the Timorese cannot understand why 
 any one should ever die unless he be killed ; so they attribute 
 both sickness and natural death to the influence of some 
 malevolent existence, which they believe eats up the spirit of 
 the blighted person after death. As soon, therefore, as the sick 
 man has died, the Swangi (or person in whom the evil spirit 
 had taken up its residence and who is considered to be in 
 collusion with it), whom their fanaticism easily discovers, used 
 with his whole family to be seized (till it was made a capital 
 crime by the Portuguese so to do), bound hand and foot, and 
 either impaled or buried alive, and their goods confiscated 
 for the benefit of the accusers and the lord of the soil. 
 
 Their food seems to consist chiefly of indian-corn roasted 
 over the fire by each individual when he feels hungry, and 
 eaten grain by grain as it becomes ready. On high occasions, 
 when a pig or a goat is killed, the indian-corn mixed with 
 rice and Katjang (Phaseolus) beans, is stewed along with the 
 flesh, and the whole mess flavoured with the most pungent 
 capsicums. Sweet potatoes (and in some elevated districts 
 European potatoes), Cucurbitaceous fruits and various herbs 
 form also a large part of their diet. In times of scarcity a species 
 of legume, called by them kutw (Dolichos Lablab), common 
 over the whole island, is also used as food, but unless it is 
 well cooked it is, if not poisonous, very deleterious. They 
 cultivate few fruits except the banana; but the jack-fruit 
 seems in some places abundant and is highly prized, espe- 
 cially its seeds, which when boiled, taste not unlike potatoes 
 and much resemble those of the seeding variety of the bread- 
 fruit tree (Artocarpus incisa). The true bread-fruit I did not 
 
IN TIMOR. 439 
 
 myself observe, though it is said to grow in Timor in abun- 
 dance. 
 
 April 3.—From behind our rest-house, I got a good view of 
 the river below us, where its tributary, the Tahaolat, descending 
 along steep gradient, and looking from my elevated station like 
 a narrow line of black fluid winding through the centre of its 
 wide, flat and stony channel, dashes down a noisy cataract into 
 but does not commingle for a long way after its union with 
 the paler water of the Wai Matang-Kaimauk, whose bed, 
 judging from the dwarfed appearance of the tall casuarinas 
 erowing against the high shingle banks in the fork of their 
 confluence, must be quite fifty feet lower. So broad is the 
 channel of this river that even the conjoint flood—on the way 
 to the sea at Mantutu—meanders like a narrow ribband 
 through it. The grandeur of these streams, if ever their vast 
 beds are filled from bank to bank with a roaring torrent, must 
 be left to the imagination. Guided by the Dato, down the 
 steep and broken slopes to the river margin, 2000 feet above 
 the sea, I had a full view of the giant trihedral blocks down 
 to their bases in a side tributary of the Wai Matang- 
 Kaimauk, and estimated them at not. less than 1000 feet in 
 height. The river itself, which looked so small from above, 
 was found to be wide, deep, and rapid, demanding our utmost 
 caution in fording on account of the number of large boulders 
 which were being constantly rolled down by it. Iam told that 
 in the rainy season, travellers have often to camp on the bank 
 for weeks waiting for an opportunity to cross in safety; and 
 that many a time horses and men, who in their impatience 
 attempt to force their way, are carried down and crushed by 
 the rolling blocks. 
 
 From the river it was a long weary climb of 1500 feet to the 
 summit of the opposite ridge, over arough shingly ground, from 
 which the soil nas been nearly all washed away, so that to 
 raise his little crop of maize the native here has had to build 
 up terraces of low walls in the more sheltered nooks to hold 
 the precious hoard of earth he has laboriously collected behind 
 them. On reaching the summit we were overtaken by a 
 dense drizzling mist, in which, amid the innumerable ravinelets 
 of the descent, each of which looked like the usual ditch-like 
 track of a road, we lost our way. Stumbling up against.a 
 
440 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 native of the district whom luckily we caught unawares before 
 he could make off, we persuaded him with the offer of a 
 gaudy kerchief to guide us to the Rajah of Turskain’s. In his 
 rear we slid and stumbled down on the slippery clay for 1000 
 feet to the Maukuda, a noisy sparkling stream in a narrow 
 ravine which finds its way to the south coast (showing that we 
 had crossed the water-shed of the country), up which we 
 clambered over boulders and through deep pools for nearly an 
 hour. The sides of the ravine, however, were densely covered 
 with vegetation, and bright with hedychium, balsams, and the 
 French marigold (Tagetes patula) so common in our gardens 
 at home, but which was here growing wild far from coast 
 influence or the highways of the world, and was seen by me 
 nowhere else along my route. It is a widespread plant, 
 hailing from Mexico originally, but also found m Africa; but 
 how did it reach the interior of Timor ? 
 
 Turning to the right out of the stream our horses had to be 
 urged up one of the steepest inclines we had yet encountered, 
 in trenches as deep as their own height, and along more pre- 
 cipitous and dangerous ravines than those we had passed. In 
 compensation for these difficulties the scenery was charmingly 
 picturesque, in the glimpses we got of it through the rolling 
 mist-clouds, and above all, we had entered a more fertile 
 erass-clad region though without much arboreal vegetation 
 beyond acacias and casuarinas. Every foot of the way was 
 dotted with bright herbs in full flower, with violets, white- 
 flowered geraniums like our Herb-Robert in habit, Galiwn 
 very like our common Bedstraw, pink Labiate resembling the 
 Penny-royal of our English roadsides, Oxalis, and Polygonum, 
 while among the grass and in rocky nooks grew small terres- 
 trial orchids and the most lovely silver and other graceful 
 ferns; and where the soil was broken by land-slips, and in the 
 ravines, flowering shrubs abounded, so that I mourned that I 
 had not arms big enough to embrace specimens of all I might 
 have gathered. Though we had been climbing up and clam- 
 bering down—first down 500 feet then up 1700, down 1000 
 only to rise again the same number of feet—since early 
 morning till past five o’clock in the evening, I quite forgot the 
 steepness of this last ascent (leading up to our destination the 
 residence of the Rajah of Turskain), and my weariness of limb 
 
IN TIMOR. 441 
 
 in the happiness of gathering these familiar forms of flowers, as 
 well as the event of the day to which I had been looking for- 
 ward, the seeing of the state and bearing of a native potentate. 
 
 At last at an elevation of 4500 feet we found in a pretty 
 circular grassy plateau in the hollow of the mountain tops the 
 royal enclosure. ‘The house of the Leorei, a small edifice 
 standing alone, had little to distinguish it from the commonest 
 Timorese dwelling except perhaps the presence of an armed 
 guard housed near it in a little shed, near which stood the 
 “ouarda,’ erected for the accommodation of high personages 
 passing through the kingdom, and therefore assigned to us. 
 ‘This was a miserable edifice raised on poles but not floored except 
 where a rough bamboo platform was erected for baggage and 
 another for sleeping on. It could not have been less comfort- 
 able or much more filthy; dogs and pigs had evidently made 
 it their lair, and during our stay they strayed through it at 
 all hours of the day and night while the rain penetrated the 
 roof everywhere, and rushed through below the house as a 
 considerable stream. 
 
 Soon after our arrival I sent my corporal to inform the 
 Rajah of my presence in his “ guarda,” “ on the service of the 
 Government,’ and to request him to come to me and _ hear 
 the reason of my visit to his kingdom. He sent back his 
 salutation, with the reply that as it was late he would visit me 
 on the morrow and arrange for the necessary supplies of our 
 table and for horses for our further progress; meantime, he 
 begged to send us six eggs and two wax tapers, hoping we 
 should make an endeavour to do with these till the morning, 
 and to say that he had ordered a Cabo of the Reno to take over 
 at once and be responsible for the safety of our baggage that 
 the Rajah of Motaél’s men had brought. This official having 
 received over not only every article of our baggage down to 
 the most insignificant strap but ourselves also, placed a guard 
 to attend on us and protect it. It was very amusing to 
 listen to the acceptance on the one side and discharge of 
 obligation on the other—three bundles of paper, two straps, 
 two teapots, three guns, four boxes, two soldiers of Dilly, one 
 Englishman, who has two eyes, a nose, hair on his face, two 
 arms, all safe and complete! Had I come by any accident, or 
 lost any prominent feature of my face, or if any of my baggage 
 
442 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 had disappeared, the kingdom would have been bound to 
 replace it in kind, or in value! In this way I never had any 
 anxiety about the safety of my property. 
 
 The six eggs (the two tapers included) provided for our 
 bodily sustenance by the Rajah, being anything but sufficient 
 for three men who had travelled through sun and rain for 
 eleven hours, I sent a sharp message that something more 
 substantial must be forthcoming, and at once. From a series of 
 terrible howlings that reached our ears from the royal guard- 
 room, it was evident that my message had been passed on to 
 some unfortunate menial accompanied by an application to 
 quicken his search, which resulted in a fowl and some other 
 comestibles finally being brought. 
 
 On the 4th April I was roused early by a vigorous tatoo 
 from the Rajah’s guard-house. The katjeru, or royal drummer, 
 is a hereditary official of high and coveted rank in the 
 kingdom, for they hold that when Maromak made Timor he 
 gave the people a standard-bearer to lead them to war, and a 
 katjeru to walk beside him—“ like man and wife.” 
 
 As the Rajah, notwithstanding the noisy tatoo at his door, 
 seemed to bea very late riser, I set out for the crest of the hill 
 above our camp to take a round of observations. To reach the 
 most convenient place for my purpose I had to pass through a 
 strong barricaded enclosure in which were several apparently 
 closed up and uninhabited houses. It was some minutes 
 before it struck me that I was in the presence of, to me the 
 most interesting of their buildings and their most sacred 
 institution—which I had seen, but without learning anything 
 about, at Sauo—the Uma-Luli, a designation which I scarcely 
 know how to translate other than by Pomali House. 
 
 I am extremely doubtful whether it is to be reckoned among 
 their really religious institutions or not. It has connection 
 with the practice of the Taboo, but whether it has been 
 introduced into this island along with a race that migrated 
 from the Pacific, or has arisen de novo among themselves I am 
 unable to conjecture. It is just possible that on their own 
 customs they may have grafted an imitation of some of the 
 rites of the Romish ritual, which has now more or less been 
 known to them for 300 years. If a family cluster consists of 
 several houses, there is invariably one among them called the 
 
IN TIMOR. 443 
 Uma-Luli ; and near the residence of the rajah there is always 
 one large one, which is the Uma-Luli of the kingdom. As a 
 rule, however, the tribal Uma-Luli is flanked by two others, or 
 occasionally by more, if the kingdom is large. These edifices 
 almost invariably stand in a cleared space, surrounded by a 
 thick fence, as here within a grove of trees on some elevated spot. 
 Within this fence no twig or branch may be broken or cut, no 
 blade of grass plucked, and no stone overturned under the fear 
 of the vengeance of the luli ; no tobacco is permitted to be 
 taken within the sacred boundaries, aud no horse or buffalo may 
 stray within it. The buildings themselves are large, carefully 
 built and tended structures of bamboo, raised above the ground 
 on pillars, and possessing two doors, one at the side and one at 
 the end. The Lulz house can be at once recognised, were it 
 by nothing else than by the buffalo crania with which it is 
 decorated on the outside. 
 
 An officer who holds one of the highest, and certainly the 
 most influential position in the kingdom, has charge of the 
 buildings, and presides over the sacred rites which are con- 
 ducted in them. He is known as the Dato-Luli, or Rai- 
 Luli. In times of peace, and on all ordinary occasions, an old 
 man or woman lives in the building, as a sort of care-taker; 
 such a person is named the Luliata. Sometimes an old man 
 and his wife reside all day in it, but they may not both— 
 being of opposite sexes—remain all night. 
 
 It is not very easy to obtain a good idea of the interior 
 arrangements of the Uma-Luli, as it is impossible for heretics 
 to get within it, or often very near it. Hven natives of Timor 
 who have become nominally Strani (Christian) are prohibited 
 from entering it; but by sedulously questioning those who 
 knew, I was able to gather that of the two doors (whose direc- 
 tion does not seem to be a matter of importance), one is re- 
 served for the Dato-Luli, or chief priest, and the other for the 
 persons consulting the fates to enter. By the Dato’s door no 
 one but himself may enter; it opens into a portion railed off 
 by ornamented wooden pillars from the larger portion of 
 the building, into which the people have entrance. In the 
 smaller part are preserved different articles of veneration—the 
 cranium of a buffalo, a spear, a shield, a chopper, a gun (almost 
 falling to pieces, and ofan old, old pattern, my guide told me, 
 
444 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 “vet it is more powerful than any other gun, however new ”) ; 
 besides these there is a bag containing the vestments of the 
 priest, which are a broad band of scarlet cloth for his head, a 
 circular breastplate of gold, worn suspended on the neck; two 
 gold dises, about 15 centimetres in diameter, to cover the ears ; 
 a broad crown of gold, with two long buffalo-like horns of the 
 same material projecting from it, and gold armlets and earrings. 
 Within this enclosure there is, besides, the most sacred object 
 of all—the Vatu-Luli, or stone on which the offerings are laid 
 to the invisible deity. Hach of these stones they believe to 
 have been given to the people of Timor for this purpose when 
 the universe was made. In the larger portion of the building 
 there is a fire-place, and vessels and cooking utensils sacred to 
 the use of the Uma-Luli. 
 
 The different buildings are fitted up in the same way, but 
 only on high occasions is the central one opened. It is kept 
 open during the whole time of war, and in it quarrels arising 
 between the different districts of the kingdom are arranged. 
 In times of flood or of drought or of famine an offering is made 
 to ward off this disaster. If a man has an ordinary sickness 
 in his house, he does not consult either of the larger Lulz 
 nouses, but offers a fowl or a-pig to the Luli—ata little railed- 
 off portion—in his own house. If he should lose several 
 members of his family, or he be oppressed by any other great 
 distress, he then applies to the priest for permission to speak 
 with the Luli. Then, bringing rice with a pig or a fowl, he 
 enters the Uma-Luli with the Dato, each going in by his own 
 door. When the Dato has put on his proper vestments he 
 kills the fowl or other animal, and having placed a piece of 
 flesh from its heart and the side of its head on the Vatu-Lulz, 
 or altar-stone, he cooks the rest along with the rice on the fire 
 in the Luli house. After both have partaken of this food, the 
 Dato converses with the Luli’, and thereafter turning to the 
 applicant he gives him siri and pinang-nut, with the assurance 
 that the sickness will depart or his difficulty disappear. Before 
 planting their Indian corn or paddy crop, they kill a pig or 
 fowl, and both on their own Luli stone and on that.in the sacred 
 house common to the district, they lay a piece of its flesh. 
 
 Their greatest ceremonial, however, takes place on the eve 
 of a war. I shall never forget the graphic description given 
 
1N TIMOR. A45 
 
 me by the guide who was accompanying me, and who himself 
 in a late war had been an actor in the scene, of the selecting 
 by Heaven of those who were to sustain the honour of 
 their country in the field. On the eve of a war, he told 
 me, messengers are sent to every corner of the kingdom 
 and country to summon from wherever he is, and from 
 whatever he is employed, every man who owes alle- 
 giance to their Rajah. From the Uma-Luli near which we 
 stood, the hill sloped up in a vast shallow, natural amphi- 
 theatre, bounded on all sides by precipitous and inaccessible 
 valleys. “Here,” he said, “ every man of the kingdom assem- 
 bled, each with a fowl in his hand on which to read his fate, 
 until the whole of this hill was full, sitting close together in 
 silence, each man dressed in his war attire, with his gun on his 
 shoulder, his sword by his side and his spear in his hand; they 
 sat row upon row from the bottom all the way up to the top 
 there, round and round.” As he spoke his eyes flashed up, 
 and I could picture to myself the wild and expectant mien of 
 the half-savage crowd. “The Dato-Luli,” he continued, “ then 
 appeared at the door of the great Luli house in all the awesome 
 vestments of his office, with the sacred spear and the gun and 
 the shield beside him, and before them all he sacrificed a buffalo. 
 After placing a piece of its flesh, along with siri and pinang on 
 the Vatu-luli, or altar-stone, he invoked the spirits of our dead 
 forefathers, then on Maromak of the heavens (in other districts 
 the deity is known by the name Urubatu and Laraila, signifying 
 sun and moon) and on Him of the earth. Then in turn he called 
 out every man present singly, who, advancing to the high 
 priest each with his fowl in his hand, gave it to the Dato-Luli, 
 who slayed it in presence of the assembled company. According 
 as the animal dies with its right foot or its left foot elevated, 
 and according as the colour of the siri juice which the Dato 
 expectorates on the brow and breast of the man before him is 
 bright scarlet or dark, does the Maromak indicate whether the 
 man is chosen to fight for his kingdom or destined to stay at 
 home and guard the women. If the fowl die with its right leg 
 elevated, and the siri spittle be bright scarlet, the omens are 
 in favour of the consultor, who then, turning from the Dato- 
 Idi, draws his sword, and, brandishing it wildly in the air, 
 exclaims—‘ I’m a Man; I’m a Brave,’ and takes his place on 
 
446 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 the hillside apart along with the chosen. Ifthe left limb of the 
 fowl remain elevated, or the siri spittle on the brow and breast 
 of the applicant appear of a dark colour he stands rejected, 
 and retires crest-fallen to a place in another group on the left. 
 Those rejected on the first occasion may re-consult the omens 
 a second time; and, if the fates permit them to go to the war, 
 it is probable that they may be wounded, and not impossible 
 that they may be killed. If any man who has been rejected, 
 however, dares to venture into the fight, he will certainly, 
 they implicitly believe, be killed, whereas in the case of those 
 whom the Luli has chosen, no bullet or weapon can hurt them. 
 When the number of those who are to fight is complete, their 
 leader is called out before them by the Dato-Luli, who, after 
 giving him siri and pinang out of his own mouth to eat, 
 instructs him how to treat the wounded, and to give the dying 
 their last siri and pinang, a supply of which he gives him from 
 that preserved in the Uma-Luli.” 
 
 During war the Dato never quits the Uma-Luli; his food 
 is brought to him or cooked inside. Day and night he must 
 keep the fire burning, for should he permit it to die, disaster 
 will happen to those in the field which will continue as long 
 as the hearth is cold. He must besides drink only hot water 
 during the time the army is absent, for every draught of cold 
 water would damp the spirits of the people, so that they could 
 not prevail. On their return from the war the Dato-Luli goes © 
 out to welcome them at the head of all those who remained 
 behind—the women beating musical instruments, and shouting 
 “Oswai! Oswai!” to the men who are returning laden with 
 heads. 
 
 Their belief in the presence of a supernatural Presence 
 resident in the Luli-house is absolute. I was told, with the 
 most perfect belief of my informant in his own statements, that 
 one of the Catholic priests from Dilly, while on a proselytizing 
 mission, having demanded that the Luli house should be 
 dismantled and its profane ornaments cleared out, was instantly 
 on his setting foot within the door to commit the sacrilegious 
 act which no one else would dare to do, threatened by the 
 sacred spear, sword and gun in invisible hands, while the altar- 
 stone bounded about through the building so menacingly that 
 he was glad to beat a retreat! When it is necessary to erect 
 
IN TIMOR. 447 
 
 a new Luli house, every male in the kingdom must contribute 
 a share of the labour and cost. When it is finished a buffalo is 
 killed to consecrate the building. When this has been properly 
 done, the vestments, the sacred stone and utensils are then 
 carried in, and a second buffalo is sacrificed and portions of its 
 flesh laid on the Lulz stone. A great feast follows with music 
 and dancing, in which the Dato-Luli in his sacred attire, and 
 the rest of the people in their gayest dresses and ornaments 
 take part. 
 
 I took advantage of my enforced stay here to increase my 
 herbarium with many of the interesting plants I had seen on 
 our way up from the Maukuda river, obtaining some very rare 
 species, such as Hypoais hygrometrica, Wollastonia asperrima, 
 and an Ophioglossum fern. 
 
 In the evening the Leorei at last arrived to pay his official 
 visit. I had hoped to find the Rajahs of the interior hedged 
 round with some state. I was quite disappointed, for although 
 not without some dignity of bearing, there was little to distin- 
 guish him from those about him except that he wore a Malayan 
 sarong, and that his Tazs, or native-made toga-like robe, was 
 ornamented and fringed with silk, an insignia of royalty. He 
 was not yet de facto ruler, for his father was “sleeping” (the 
 long sleep) “in his house,” and not yet buried, as there were 
 not yet amassed sufficient cattle and pigs for a royal sepulture. 
 He spoke and read Portuguese with some fluency, and by the 
 questions he asked about the objects of my journey, and in 
 the quickness with which he comprehended my description of 
 the working of an aneroid, a thermometer and a prismatic 
 compass that I showed him, he exhibited an amount of 
 intelligence that rather surprised me. Why the magnetic 
 needle turned always to the same point puzzled him beyond 
 measure, and I could see that my reply, that Maromak made 
 it so, was not altogether satisfactory to him. 
 
 Like most of the Rajahs, who in their periodical visits to 
 Dilly have been brought into contact with, and influenced by 
 the Catholic priests, my royal friend was a professor of their 
 faith, as well as a follower of the pagan rites of his own people ; 
 and to see over against the Lulz temple, a lone and uncompre- 
 hended symbol of the Christian faith in front of a small, 
 neglected bamboo edifice representing a chapel of its worship, 
 
448 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 could not but raise strange reflections in the breast of a 
 Kuropean traveller. 
 
 As still another day of waiting for the horses for the 
 continuance of our journey—to the kingdom of Bibigugu—had 
 to be passed here, I was not disappointed at the opportunity 
 thus afforded of increasing my herbarium along the slopes 
 of Rusconna, whose summit commanded a view of both seas 
 —the Tassi-feto or female sea on the north, and the Tass7- 
 mann or male sea (as the natives have named them), to the 
 south—and of the peak of Kabalaki, the highest mountain 
 of all Eastern Timor. The mountains of Turskain were eyvery- 
 where covered with a rich carpet of green grass, which gave 
 them a most pleasant and fertile appearance, and on which 
 thousands of sheep might be pastured with great profit. 
 
IN TIMOR. 449 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 IN THE KINGDOM OF BIBICUQU. 
 
 Leave for Bibicncu—Bridles—A trio of Braves—War and its attendant 
 ceremonies—Rahomali—Luli ground—Bibicucu—Harvest-fields—Culti- 
 vation—Take the law into my own hands—Connubial re!ations—Water- 
 fall—Birds—Herbarium—Disquieting news—Monnt Kabalaki—Move 
 forward to Saluki—Native market—Description of natives seen there— 
 Ornaments—Dyes—An enraged Timorese—Red-haired race—Timorese 
 a mixed race—Up the Makulala River—Gold—Ceremonies of gold- 
 gathering—Arrive at the Rajah of Saluki’s. 
 
 Friday, April 6th.—At daylight began the loading of the 
 horses and men; but finding that the herbarium gathered at 
 Turskain would from its size hamper our progress very much, 
 I had it packed up and sent by special messengers to Fatunaba 
 to A. About seven o’clock we got under weigh for the Rajah 
 of Bibigugu’s by a south-east course towards the sharp peak of 
 Tahaolat. The horse I now rode was furnished with a native 
 saddle, composed of long pads on each side of the spine, 
 secured by cords instead of bands, and with neat wooden 
 pulleys in place of buckles. The Timorese in riding place 
 only the great toe in the stirrup, consequently these were 
 merely little blocks of wood at the end of a cord, with a hole 
 for the insertion of the digit; or, often more simply still, a 
 small wooden disk for the support of the first two toes, between 
 which the stirrup cord is grasped. The bridle-bit—a fearful 
 instrument of torture from the sharp spikes with which it was 
 armed—was of brass, of native manufacture and good work- 
 manship, cast, as I was told, in separate pieces in a mould of 
 wax, lined with very fine clay. 
 
 On one of the hill-tops on our way we passed three men who 
 had come from a neighbouring hut to see our cavalcade. My 
 servant, who was a native of the kingdom we were approach- 
 
 2G 
 
450 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 ing, gave and received from the group a hard stare; but no 
 words were exchanged. When we had gone a little way, he 
 looked back at the group. “These are Braves,” he said, after 
 a little, with somewhat of admiration, I thought, in his tone. 
 
 “Indeed!” I said, “ how do you know?” ° 
 
 “The tallest of them,” he replied, with a coolness that 
 astonished me, “cut off my father’s head in their war with 
 Bibicucu.” 
 
 “Do you not feel any rancour towards him? Don’t you 
 wish to have it out with him now?” 
 
 “Oh, no! the two kingdoms are now at peace; each has 
 given back the heads they took, long ago.” 
 
 The custom of head-hunting, as carried on among the wild 
 tribes of Borneo, is not practised among the Timorese except 
 during war, which is begun after the most explicit declaration. 
 
 When a raid by one tribe has taken place on the fields or 
 herds of a tribe in a neighbouring kingdom, a messenger is 
 sent with the intelligence to its Rajah. If the rulers of the 
 two kingdoms are united by the ordinary ties of friendship, or 
 by the sanctity of the blood-bond, the affair is settled after 
 long parleys and discussions, by the payment of an agreed-on 
 price. Kingdoms related to the belligerents by ties of marriage 
 or sworn brotherhood usually send a contingent to assist in 
 the war, or a kingdom may hire men from a neighbouring 
 or friendly power. If any of these are killed they must be 
 redeemed by a large sum, so much for the eyes, hair, mouth, 
 nose, and for every limb and organ of the body, much after the 
 custom of reckoning the value of a man in vogue in the island 
 of Buru or among our own early ancestors. “The freeman’s 
 life and the freeman’s limb had each on this (bloodwite) 
 system its legal price. ‘Hye for an eye,’ ran the rough code, 
 and ‘life for life, or for each fair damages.” 
 
 If no goodwill exist between the two kingdoms, no satisfac- 
 tion will be obtained. War is prepared for, and by the sacred 
 rites described above the men who are to sustain their cause in 
 the field are selected. At length, when the armies meet, a last 
 discussion of the question is held by a representative of each 
 side who advances in front of the respective armies. If no- 
 agreement is come to the fight begins. Being really of a very 
 cowardly spirit, they never fight in the open but from behind 
 
IN TIMOR. 451 
 
 trees and crags. Hostilities are carried on mostly by the 
 offensive army pillaging and ravaging all they can lay hands 
 on, robbing every undefended dwelling, ruthlessly decapitating 
 helpless men, women, and children, and even infants. 
 
 In most districts all the warriors fight on foot; but the 
 Lamkitos, who live between Allas on the south coast and the 
 great mountain of Kabalaki, fight from horseback with their 
 legs tied under their horses’ bellies, so that, in case of their 
 being wounded or killed, they may be carried back to their 
 own village with their heads on their shoulders. 
 
 When one of their number has fallen, sorely wounded or 
 killed, there is in general a grand stampede of all his com- 
 panions. The valiant marksman rushes forward, and, standing 
 over his fallen foe, calls out to his friends, “ Ho! what is the 
 name of this man?” His friends call back, “Ho! that is so 
 and so;” to which the response is, “ Know, then, that I am so 
 and so,” and, lifting up his enemy’s head by the ear or the 
 hair, he decapitates him at a blow. He carries off the head in 
 triumph, retires to his own house, and sets about preparing and 
 preserving the head, by removing the brain and drying the 
 flesh and skin before a slow fire. He never washes his hands 
 till he returns with the army to its own capital, when those 
 who come back carrying heads are saluted by the women, who 
 along with the Dato-Luli have come out to meet them with 
 music, with the cry of Oswai! Oswar! (“ Braves! braves! ”) 
 
 For every head the fortunate warrior brings back he 
 receives a present from the Rajah, and a circular disk, or lua 
 of gold, which he henceforth continually wears round his neck 
 —a Timorese Victoria Cross. The captured heads are carefully 
 preserved by both sides in the conflict, till such time as 
 amicable relations can be established between them, when a 
 general assembly of the two kingdoms is held whither the 
 heads taken in the war are brought also, and amid terrible 
 howlings and lamentations they are restored by each side to 
 the relatives of the deceased. Each “ Brave,’ in giving up 
 the head he has taken, gives a small gift to the relatives that 
 friendship between them may be restored, which is cemented 
 by, as usual, a boisterous feast, concluded by heavy drinking, 
 and the wild dancing of the Tabédu already described. The 
 recovered heads are now placed with the unburied members, 
 
 2G 2 
 
452 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 which can then obtain sepulture. Every head is invariably 
 forthcoming at such a peace-making, otherwise amicable rela- 
 tions could scarcely be restored, certainly not without a very 
 heavy price for the missing skull. 
 
 The ceremony of blood-brotherhood alluded to above, or the 
 swearing of eternal friendship, is of an interesting nature, and 
 is celebrated often by fearful orgies, especially when friendship 
 is being made between families, or tribes, or kingdoms. The 
 ceremony is the same in substance whether between two 
 individuals or large companies. The contracting parties slash 
 their arms, and collect the blood into a bamboo, into which 
 kanipa (coarse gin) or larw (palm-wine) is poured. Having 
 provided themselves with a small fig-tree (halk) they adjourn 
 to some retired spot, taking with them the sword and spear from 
 the Luli chamber of their own houses if between private indi- 
 viduals, or from the Uma-Luli of their Suku if between large 
 companies. Planting there the fig-tree, flanked by the sacred 
 sword and spear, they hang on it a bamboo-receptacle, into 
 which—after pledging each other in a portion of the mixed 
 blood and gin-—the remainder is poured. Then each swears, 
 “Tf be false, and be not a true friend, may my blood issue from 
 my mouth, ears, nose, as it does from this bamboo!” the bottom 
 of the receptacle being pricked at the same moment to allow the 
 blood and gin to escape. The tree remains and grows as a 
 _ witness of their contract. It is one of their most sacred oaths, and 
 almost never, I am told, violated at least between individuals. 
 
 If a member of a family of a king marries into that of 
 another, the two kingdoms often swear friendship, and when 
 the one is at war the other is bound to send men to aid him. 
 One brother coming to another brother’s house is in every 
 respect regarded as free, and as much at home as its owner. 
 Nothing is withheld from him; even his friend’s wife is not 
 denied him, and a child born of such an union would be 
 recognised by the husband as his. In speaking of the 
 Greenland Hsquimaux, Egede expressly states that they were 
 reputed the best and noblest-tempered, who, without any pain 
 or reluctance, would lend their friends their wives. 
 
 Ascending by a very steep path, bordered with Mitrosacme, 
 hare-bells, geraniums, wood-sorrel and some liliaceous plants, 
 we reached the top of Rahomali at 4700 feet, whence a 
 
‘AdaAsSIa1a WOM ‘VON AdVO SaUVMOL SNIMOOT 
 
 ‘aep And aan of 
 
 
 

 
 ie fee : 
 b-aceats jamreip it ON win URS 
 eet ’ _—- a. * r ‘ - 
 
 
 
IN TIMOR. 453 
 
 
 
 
 
 magnificent view lay before us of an immense tract of country 
 between both seas, riven and ploughed up in the most gigantic 
 manner, not an acre of level land being visible anywhere save 
 by the margin of the seas, and in which every isolated peak 
 and crag was capped by a dwelling. Having halted a short 
 time to survey the scene, I observed that the sky was becoming 
 overcast, and gave orders to the men to move on briskly in 
 advance, as I feared it would rain. My boy turned sharply 
 and besought me, “Oh, master, do not say that word!” (for 
 rain); “these mountains are not good, and if you say that 
 word here, we shall certainly be overtaken in a storm.” The 
 incident recalled to me a like dread of certain mountain-tops 
 exhibited by the natives in Buru. 
 
 Hence our course lay almost due south right over the peak 
 of Tahaolat—rising up to 6000 feet; but its impracticable 
 crags necessitated our making a descent of 2000 feet by a 
 spiral track round half its girth, in the face of an almost 
 perpendicular slope, from which radiated many deep and in- 
 accessible ravines, clothed, I could perceive, with a dense and 
 interesting vegetation of Lawrimex, Hricacee and numerous 
 small epidendric orchids and Lycopods. 
 
 Where the spur of Tahaolat commenced to rise towards 
 Mount Ailor—4200 feet—I rode close past a pond full of ducks 
 of the species Tadorna rajah, whose very tameness and utter 
 disregard of us might have told me, even if I had not been 
 carefully warned, that they were on Luli ground, where I dare 
 not shoot; even the scarlet algx covering the surface of the 
 water, it was sacrilege to touch. A long and gradual descent 
 brought us at last to the Rajah’s of Bibigueu, where we were 
 assigned a guarda on a windy bluff at 3200 feet above the sea, 
 commanding a view of the whole country along the southern 
 coast from beyond Cape Luca in the east to far past Allas in 
 the west, its low littoral grooved by broad blue-black river-beds 
 margined with casuarinas. Within the neighbouring kingdom 
 of Manufahi the Peak of Kabalaki, with its rugged battle- 
 ments and beetling crags, reared its majestic summit over 
 10,000 feet into the air. The whole region was hewed up into 
 narrower and more precipitous valleys than any I had yet 
 traversed—features awesome and imposing, but with little to 
 commend them to a kindly place in the affections. 
 
454 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 I was struck by observing that the roofs of the houses about 
 me were surmounted by an ornament (see opposite page) 
 closely resembling that found on temples in Fiji, as shown in 
 Stanford’s ‘ Australasia,’ which may perhaps be an indication 
 of some relationship or communication in former times with 
 the Polynesian races. In one of the baskets which I obtained 
 in the Tenimber Islands, the lid, which was hut-shaped, cul- 
 minated in an ornament of the same form. 
 
 The Rajah himself was absent, and we did not receive a 
 particularly pleasant welcome from the Rajah Katuas, who was 
 acting as his substitute ; but, desiring to live on the best terms 
 possible with this kingdom, where I hoped to make a prolonged 
 stay, I overlooked as much as possible his conduct. From 
 what I had learned of the district from my boy while still at 
 Fatunaba, my curiosity and interest were excited, not only in 
 its flora and fauna, but in the curious customs that prevailed 
 among the people of this rarely visited and little known 
 region. 
 
 In travelling south, after crossing the Kaimauk river, a 
 considerable change is observable in the flora. The Melaleuca 
 greatly diminishes in numbers, while in the ravines Casuarinas, 
 Urostigmas, and species of Ficus become more abundant; and 
 Acacias, aromatic Labiatz, shrubby Malvacezx and Melastomacee 
 cover the more exposed slopes, where also clumps of tall, dark 
 foliaged bamboos, with graceful nodding plumes, form quite a 
 feature in the landscape. Whenever considerable patches of 
 trees have attained the dignity of a wood, one may be sure that 
 there the land is Luli—sacred territory—where, if he is per- 
 mitted to enter, the botanist may not break or cut a single 
 branch. These spots—often the highest peaks of mountains— 
 having been lulied for generations, must be the richest store- 
 houses of all the rarest plar. 3 and trees in their localities. 
 
 How aggravating to the spirit it was to be prevented from 
 collecting there it is needless to describe. 
 
 My collecting was often enlivened by the sound of happy 
 singing from the fields, which on all sides were during my 
 stay in the height of the rice harvest, here as in all other lands 
 a season of mirth and rejoicing. In the harvest-field every 
 one—old men, women, and children—comes out to help. The 
 older people in the centre of a long line, with the youths on 
 
“q415ISIA AO WOGDNIM AHL NI UYALSATO-asn0H 
 
 "$or abnd a0nf OF 
 
 
 

 
 = erat renee Oe eruaisenee 
 
 
 
IN TIMOR. 455 
 
 the one hand and the maidens on the other, advance from the 
 margin of the field, stripping off between their fingers the 
 grains of corn into little baskets carried in the hand. The 
 older men strike up‘a song, to which the youths and maidens 
 sing a chorus, while sometimes the youths sing, and are replied 
 to by the maidens, in more or less amorous strains. Behind 
 this line two carriers bear an immense basket for the reception 
 of the contents of the smaller ones in the hands of the reapers, 
 who call out when these are filled. When the crop is all 
 gathered a great feast—called Sallalah—is given, at which. 
 immense quantities of the new and sweet rice are consumed, 
 along with pig or goat flesh and abundant libations of kanipa, 
 followed by music and dancing throughout the entire night. 
 
 In Bibigugu rice was grown largely; but the most exten- 
 sively cultivated and consumed cereal in Timor is the Indian 
 corn, which is grown often on the very steepest slopes, where a 
 cool head and a sure foot are required to move about safely. 
 A simple pointed stake for making holes to receive the corns, 
 and a rude hoe called haissuaké, with which they roughly 
 scrape the ground after it has been cleared by fire, are their 
 only agricultural implements. In the flat lands by the coast, 
 where rice is grown in water-covered fields, entailing in their 
 preparation much greater labour, the’people of a Suku com- 
 bine together to construct their common irrigating channels. 
 
 Before the sowing of the fields a fowl or a small pig is 
 sacrificed in the Luli chamber of the owner’s house and a rich 
 head of rice and Indian corn suspended as an invocation for a 
 bountiful harvest. It amused me to observe how meanly they 
 had occasionally tricked their invisible Spirit by offering only 
 a husk of maize from which all the corns had been carefully 
 picked! In the month Fotan when the grain has all been 
 gathered, the greatest Luli feast of the year takes place, at 
 which a buffalo is offered by the Dato in the great Luli house 
 of the Suku as a harvest thanksgiving. 
 
 Only on the return of the Rajah, three days after my arrival, 
 was I able to obtain horses to send back to Fatunaba for the 
 botanical drying-paper and the trade goods which I was 
 unable to bring with me. He had been in a distant part of his 
 kingdom near the south coast, looking after the harvesting of 
 rice-fields that he had there, and had returned for a day only 
 
 
 
456 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 to see that I was properly attended. His instructions, how- 
 ever, were neglected the moment he turned his back and left 
 the direction of affairs to his old uncle, who acted as Viceroy. 
 The kingdom was by their custom bound to supply me with 
 provisions, each family having one day’s rations to provide 
 and deliver at our guarda. As the people lived so widely 
 scattered, they often managed to shirk their duty, leaving us 
 utterly without anything to eat. I would far rather have 
 purchased provisions; but no one would sell or desired to sell. 
 Out of their scant stores they grudgingly gave what they were 
 ordered to give, and had they accepted any price for it, it 
 would have been claimed by the. Rajah. 
 
 On one occasion, after having gone without a particle of 
 food for a whole day, even after appeal and threats to the 
 Viceroy, I took the law into my own hands by shooting the 
 first large fat pig I encountered. It was the property, as it 
 luckily turned out, of the Rajah himself. I say luckily, for 
 I would rather that his herds were plundered than his people’s, 
 and because this simple act disclosed for me a curious 
 law of their country. By the fault of some member of this 
 community my act had caused this loss to the Rajah, a wrong 
 which had to be expiated by a fine levied on all the Sukus of 
 the kingdom, not on the offending individual alone. 
 
 In the early days of our own history, “the price of life or imb 
 was paid, not by the wrong-doer to the man he wronged, but by 
 the family or house of the wrong-doer to the family or house of 
 the wronged. Order and law were thus made to rest in each 
 little group of English people upon the blood-bond which knit 
 its families together ; every outrage was held to have been done 
 by all who were linked by blood to the doer of it ; every crime 
 to have been done against all who were linked by blood to the 
 sufferers from it. From this sense of the value of the family 
 bond as a means of restraining the wrong-doer by forces which 
 the tribe as a whole did not possess, sprang the first rude forms 
 of English justice. Hach kinsman was his kinsman’s keeper, 
 bound to protect him from wrong-doing, and to suffer with 
 and pay for him if wrong were done.” * 
 
 This incident is one which well illustrates how near a 
 traveller seeking for information of an abstract kind, may be 
 
 * Green’s ‘ History of the English People,’ page 3. 
 
IN TIMOR. 457 
 
 
 
 
 
 to missing some of the most characteristic and interesting of 
 the laws and customs of a people, and how only by a lucky 
 chance or mischance in the most unexpected way he may light 
 on fundamental facts of their history. 
 
 I was fortunate enough to gain also much information about 
 the curious connubial relations prevailing in this part of the 
 island, which recall the husband-clans and wife-clans existing 
 among some of the Australian tribes. 
 
 To the west of Bibicugu lies the neighbouring kingdom of 
 Manufahi, and to the south-west that of Allas. The men of 
 Manufahi cannot purchase wives from Bibigucgu, but the men 
 of Bibigucu can obtain wives by barter from Manufahi. The 
 women of Bibicucu can obtain husbands from Manufahi, if 
 these men come and live during the lifetime of their wives 
 in the kingdom of their wives. No purchase-money may be 
 paid, and none may be accepted for them. ‘The son of the 
 Rajah of Manufahi may marry the daughter of the Rajah of 
 Bibigugu, but he cannot on any condition obtain her by pur- 
 chase, nor may she settle in Manufahi; he must remain in 
 Bibigugu during her lifetime. 
 
 Saluki and Bidauk are two districts of the kingdom of 
 Bibigugu. A man of Saluki may marry a woman of Bidauk, 
 and take her back with him to Saluki; but he must purchase 
 her, and it is not in his option to remain in Bidauk with his 
 wife’s relatives instead of paying for her. On the other hand, 
 the men of Bidauk can marry with the women of Saluki; but 
 the man must go to Saluki and live in the house of the woman, 
 and he has not the option of paying for her at all. The 
 children of the union belong to her, and on her death inherit 
 all her property, while the husband returns to his own king- 
 dom, leaving the children behind him, except in the case of 
 their being more than two, when he is entitled to claim at 
 least one. ‘This is possibly the remnants of matriarchal 
 descent. These restrictions, however, do not hold with a 
 man of Saluki if, for instance, he select a wife from a king- 
 dom which is not related in this curious way to his own 
 kingdom ; also, as far as I am able to learn, Manufahi men 
 may take wives from Allas—or Allas men from Manufahi— 
 on paying the ordinary price demanded in these kingdoms for 
 a wife, without incurring any restriction as to residence. The 
 
458 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Timorese apply the name Vaswmanni to the husband-giving, 
 and etosau to the woman-supplying clan. 
 
 In Timor monogamy is the rule; concubinage is also 
 practised; but rarely otherwise than among the Rajahs 
 and chiefs. The wife of the Rajah—his concubines may be 
 whom he will—must be the daughter of a royal house, and is 
 selected by the people of the kingdom from among the best- 
 looking daughters of some neighbouring Rajah. When an 
 agreement has been come to as to the price of the bride 
 between these people or their representatives and the father of 
 the girl—always with the consent of her father’s people—the 
 suitor-kingdom sends a deputation to stay and be, as it were, 
 a guard over the prospective mother of their future king, 
 till the price—always a large sum, often as many as two 
 or three hundred buffaloes, along with herds of horses and 
 goats, of sheep and pigs, of gold in dust and gold manufac- 
 tured, with piles of native cloth—has been paid. When the 
 
 money and gold portion of it has been sent to the father of the 
 - girl, the future husband is invited, as a rule, to his father-in- 
 law’s, where, after a great feast, at which hundreds of buffaloes 
 are ki.'ed, the girl is handed over to her lord and master to be 
 conveyed to his own kingdom. A large escort of her father’s 
 people convey her to her new home, where, as long as any part 
 of the price is unpaid, they remain guests, as a daily reminder 
 to the Rajah that the balance is still to pay. 
 
 If the Rajah have a son, he’succeeds his father. If he have 
 daughters only, the eldest becomes Rajah in esse, whose active 
 duties are performed by a leutenant, and the others may 
 become the wives of neighbouring Rajahs. If no Rajah offers 
 for them, they may not be married to any one not of royal 
 descent, with the exception, perhaps, and that very rarely, of 
 some of the highest officers in the kingdom. 
 
 The people of the kingdom choose their queen’s husband. 
 Having fixed their choice on a suitable person in some neigh- 
 bouring kingdom, they send a deputation to request the per- 
 mission of its Rajah and people for one of his sons to become 
 the husband of their queen. If the proposal is agreeable to 
 them, the selected youth is conveyed to his new kingdom, 
 receives its queen as a gift, and is endowed with the status 
 and rank of a nominal Rajah. He must remain in his new 
 

 

 
 To face page 459. 
 
 VIEW IN THE SERARATA VALLEY, BIBIGUQU. 
 
IN TIMOR. 459 
 
 kingdom as long as his wife is alive, and his children belong 
 to the kingdom of his adoption. If, however, there are more 
 children than two, a boy, or a boy and a girl, belong to the 
 husband, and are at liberty to return to, and are in fact 
 claimed by his father’s kingdom, and are the inheritors of 
 his property, while the rest are heirs of her’s. When the 
 queen dies, her consort returns to his father’s kingdom, but 
 he can take with him nothing from his wife’s home; every- 
 thing there belongs to her children. If he die first, his body 
 is carried to his own family burying-ground; but I am not 
 sure by whom the death-and-burial feasts are provided. 
 
 If the Rajah of Bibicugu, for instance, have no children, 
 the people of his kingdom beg the services of a son always of 
 the Rajah of Manufahi, as their Rajah, for the payment of a 
 certain sum to his kingdom as hire. His new kingdom then 
 purchases a wife for him, if he be unmarried. Should the 
 kingdom of Manufahi lose all heirs to its throne, it may 
 demand back again the reigning Rajah of Bibicugu. If he 
 has children while Rajah of Bibigugu, or afterwards, they 
 belong to the kingdom which purchased for him his wife, 
 with the reservation just mentioned, of a boy or a boy and a 
 girl to become his heirs. If, however, the kingdom of Bibi- 
 gugu has bought and not hired merely the son of the Rajah of 
 Manufahi, he cannot be recalled on a vacancy occurring in 
 his own father’s kingdom. 
 
 In the sunny valley of Serarata, near a picturesque water- 
 fall, butterflies, chiefly of the common families of Prertde and 
 Lycenide, were abundant, and formed all along the water’s 
 edge quite a border of bright colour. JBird-life was far 
 scarcer than nearer the northern coast, but along the more 
 wooded flat lands by the southern shores, the natives informed 
 me that they are very plentiful. A lively little Pipit (Anthus 
 medius), with the perfect habits and call of a Wagtail, fre- 
 quented the barer grass fields in flocks, while among the 
 shrubberies a pretty Cisticola which I first took to be a wren, 
 and a black Fantail Flycatcher (Rhipidura rufiventris), flitted 
 about with the restless habit of their tribe. A bright orange 
 Pachycephala and a species of Tit (Parus timorensis), which I 
 did not obtain, were not uncommon. On the trees the white- 
 headed Fruit-pigeon (Péi/opus cinctus) sat motionless during 
 
460 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 
 
 the heat of the day in numbers, on well-exposed_ branches ; 
 but it was with the most extreme difficulty that I, or my 
 sharp-eyed native servant, could ever detect them, even in 
 trees where we knew they were sitting. ‘The peculiar colora- 
 tion of the plumage of these birds in the hand or in the 
 cabinet is so conspicuous and striking that it would scarcely 
 be believed that they can occupy leafless branches (if there be 
 foliage behind and above them) with the most perfect safety 
 from detection. Neither the kakuak (Philemon), the oriole, nor 
 the cuckoo (Centropus), which were so conspicuous among the 
 trees and shrubs around Fatunaba, were observed at Bibicucu. 
 
 My herbarium, however, made more rapid increase than any 
 of my other collections, and every day I gathered plants rare 
 or unknown in any European cabinet, to which perhaps the 
 handsomest addition was a large climbing species of Artocarpex, 
 with the chastest possible foliage, which coiled itself in regular 
 spirals about the bole of a tall tree. Its stem was studded 
 with figs in all stages of growth and of almost every hue, from 
 richest purple-lake dotted and blotched with pure chinese- 
 white, to light red or brilliant scarlet speckled with the 
 deepest orange; others again, when gathered and laid in a 
 heap on the ground, might have passed for the eggs of some 
 of the Pheasant or Grouse families. 
 
 On the 20th of April the horses returned from Fatunaba, 
 bringing me the botanical drying-paper of which I was so 
 much in need; and in corners of the baggage, where A. had 
 mindfully thrust them, I found welcome additions to my table, 
 which could not have been spared, however, I knew, without 
 pinching the meagre Fatunaba larder; and among which I ~ 
 found a note with the evil and disquieting tidings that our 
 house had been attacked in the night and plundered of nearly 
 all the stock of trade goods and other valuables that it con- 
 tained by the treacherous hill-men, who had taken advantage 
 of her defenceless condition. Sbe bravely said nothing of 
 being afraid, so I could only hope that the anxious fear—more 
 trying than the danger of the moment—of further visits from 
 them might not in the oppressive stillness of the night in her 
 unprotected hut, prey on her nerves not then fully recovered 
 from the severe strain of that short but trying scare of a 
 Kaleobar attack in Timor-laut. 
 
IN TIMOR. 461 
 
 I retained the porters and horses to convey me next day to 
 Saluki, on the other side of the valiey of the Makalaha, where 
 I had arranged to go, not without great disappointment; for 
 every day then would be taking me farther from Kabalaki 
 in the Manufahi kingdom, which I had wistfully gazed at 
 so long, and whose summit must support a flora the most 
 interesting of all Hastern Timor. My Hindu guide, however, 
 refused the responsibility of conducting me thither, not only 
 because of the Lamkito robbers who skulk in the long grass 
 at its base to pick off and rob all passers by, but also because 
 war was on the eve of breaking out between the two king- 
 doms, which would prevent any Bibigugu man from accom- 
 panying us. 
 
 In leaving Bibigugu I made a detour from the shortest 
 way, attended by a high official of the kingdom, to the bed 
 of the Makalaha, which was reached by a steep winding | 
 descent of 1600 feet, as | was very anxious to see the weekly 
 market of the district, which was held under the Casuarina 
 trees there. 
 
 As soon as my approach was observed a loud screaming 
 from the women and children spread an alarm resulting in a 
 stampede of the entire concourse. The officer accompanying 
 me dashed among them, shouting and reassuring them that I 
 was only passing by, and was in no way going to meddle with 
 them. Meantime I had sat down under the shade to place 
 in paper the plants I had gathered on the way down, with- 
 out lifting my eyes toward them, and as quite unconscious 
 of their presence there. By slow degrees, first one, then 
 another and another, enticed like so many monkeys by 
 curiosity, crept in about to see the, to them, strange perform- 
 ance, and as I differed little from an ordinary human being 
 they forgot their fright, and in a little while the market was 
 proceeding in its accustomed way, through which I then 
 strolled quietly with open and interested eyes. 
 
 There were between two and three hundred people congre- 
 gated—a wild and savage-like crowd. The men were dressed 
 in little more than the ordinary T-bandage or hakpoliké of 
 native make, about their loins; some, but not all, of them 
 had a kerchief girt about the head, while their hair was 
 twisted into a knot on the top or back of the head, or combed 
 
462 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 out into a crimped or semi-frizzled mop. Every man wore 
 suspended over his shoulder a tads or plaid, which differed in 
 ornamentation and excellence of manufacture according to the 
 district in which it had been made. From his shoulder-knob 
 depended his coi, or wallet, the cords for whose opening and 
 closing were elaborately strung with circular disks of shells 
 alternating with dice-like beads of bone richly carved. In 
 this is carried a store of betel-leaves and pinang-nut, with 
 tobacco and other chewing necessaries, and the universal 
 bamboo drinking-cup in case in his travels he should meet 
 
 
 
 
 
 TAT a yt ae 
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 Cy 
 Fees re P< Tom | 
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 Dies do OT AN é 
 rrp gai fy PRC 
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 g Tartu iL ry j 
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 = pao : 
 
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 ————— 
 —_ 
 
 is 
 
 ORNAMENTED COMB. 
 
 some friend or acquaintance who has a supply of palm-wine 
 (aru) or of kanipa, as they name the coarse gin imported 
 by thousands of cases every month into the country. 
 
 Every man was armed with a spear and a long knife, and 
 if he had not a long Tower flint-lock over his shoulder, he 
 grasped a bow and a handful of arrows, light shafts made 
 of the tall canes that grow everywhere in the island, tipped 
 with poisoned bamboo barbs. Many of them carried besides 
 a buffalo-hide shield to ward off the stones which, suddenly 
 enraged, they are in the habit of discharging—and with 
 
IN TIMOR. 463 
 
 wonderful power and accuracy—at each other. Most of the 
 men had round the waist ammunition pouches of thick buffalo- 
 hide, in form much like European cartridge-belts, with com- 
 partments for the small bamboo cylinders in which they keep 
 gunpowder, shot, flints, balls of lead or of ruby crystals 
 gathered out of the river beds; here and there a man from 
 the western kingdoms of the Portuguese territory could be 
 told by the excellence of the construction of these accoutre- 
 ments, and the elegant way in which they were studded with 
 large tin-headed nails, or with rows of Dutch silver coins, 
 and occasionally with.an English sovereign among them 
 transfixed by a nail through its centre. 
 
 The women wear very few ornaments—a few arm-bands of 
 silver or horn, and occasionally earrings, and, transfixing the 
 knot in which their hair was gathered behind, a high semi- 
 circular comb, elaborately carved in beautiful and complex 
 patterns. These are said to be given by the youths to their 
 sweethearts, and possibly represent a sort of engagement 
 token. Their dress was a simple tunic, the taisfeta, hung 
 from the waist or from the armpits to the knees. 
 
 The women did all the selling and buying, while the men 
 strutted about exchanging with each other drinks of palm- 
 wine—to which they are inordinately given. Besides the 
 different food stuffs, there were exposed for sale on the ground, 
 piles of those beautiful cloths, entirely spun and woven by 
 themselves, in which both between 
 themselves and among the surround- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 SS 
 Ga 
 ing islands a large trade is done, and peel fe-g 
 
 
 
 
 
 poe ei 
 cigarette and tobacco holders ex- a: A 
 quisitely woven out of thin shreds of ig ee rae 
 palm-leaf, on which are worked in Agta} 6 ten 
 additional fibres most artistic coloured 
 designs in yellow, red, and black, of 
 dyes made also by themselves; the 
 red out of the nut of the Morinda 
 citrifolia, the yellow from the epi- 
 dermis of an epidendric orchid called “ORNAMENTATION ON SMALL 
 suaik, and the black (or dark blue) Siege 
 from the indigo. The favourite and typical carved ornamenta- 
 tion that I observed on their weapons and accoutrements, and 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sure) 
 OTT 
 
 eran Oe 
 
464 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 engraved on the pipe figured on p. 429, closely resembles 
 that on some of the ancient British remains found at Taplow 
 in 1882. Another pattern is represented on page 463. 
 
 I was told that rarely a month passed without once, or 
 oftener, the market being suddenly broken up by a dranken 
 brawl, as few of the men ever leave it sober. | . 
 
 I myself witnessed the preliminary blaze of passion in a 
 fiery spirit who, aggrieved in some way, had sought his foe in 
 the market-place, whither he had come, however, just too late 
 to find him. It was a sight to remember—the flashing eyes 
 and passionate mien of that wild savage, the hasty and signifi- ; 
 cant look at the priming of his flint-lock, as he dashed away in 
 hot pursuit (a wild cry being passed down the valley to the . 
 pursued), bounding from rock to rock in the river bed like a 
 chamois, his coi and long knife dangling by his sides, and his 
 tais flowing out behind him with the fleetness of his pace. I 
 watched him till he disappeared behind a bend of the river; 
 but I never recall the features of the man without wondering 
 what was the issue of that passionate chase. 
 
 They are a vindinctive people, without a vestige of pity, 
 as might be expected from their having always had the 
 dealing out of punishments for wrong done to them by their 
 own hands. A man I knew, whose neighbour had by accident 
 (or design) killed his pig, failing to obtain the restitution he 
 demanded, seized his neighbour’s child and ran off with it, 
 holding it on his shoulder as a shield against the father 
 should he wish to fire on him, and carried it to the coast, 
 where he purchased a horse with the proceeds of its sale. I 
 do not know certainly, but I am strongly of impression, from 
 what I know of the character of the people, that the vendetta 
 exists among them. 
 
 While in the act of turning from watching this human hunt 
 to continue my journey my eye lighted on an object that 
 riveted my interest more than all else among these savage 
 marketers—a red-haired youth (first one, then a few others), 
 some with straight, some with curly hair, with red eyelashes, 
 blue eyes, and the hair over his body also reddish. I 
 found, on inquiry, that a little colony of them, well known 
 for their peculiar colour of hair and eyes, lived at Aittha, 
 at no great distance off. Though they lived in a colony 
 
IN TIMOR. 465 
 
 ‘together, they were not shunned by their neighbours, who even 
 intermarried with them. The offspring of these unions took 
 sometimes after the one, sometimes after the other parent. 
 
 In looking eagerly at their faces I saw more than their 
 features only ; their presence there was an excerpt out of a 
 long history. In imagination I saw past them down the dim 
 avenues of Time—a far far cry—to their early progenitors, 
 and pictured their weary retreat, full of strange and romantic 
 vicissitudes from a more northern clime till forced off the 
 mainland by superior might, into exile in this remote isle, 
 where as a surviving remnant amid its central heights, they 
 
 
 
 é ~ 
 Jw 
 
 Fig. 1. FIG. 2. 
 NATIVES OF BIBIGUGU. 
 
 
 
 are living united but not incorporated with the surrounding 
 race whose pedigree has no link in common with their own. 
 What the pedigree of the Timorese is I have not sufficient 
 evidence for forming any decided opinion; but that they are 
 a race in which many elements commingle seems certain. I 
 saw no one with what I can with perfect. truth designate 
 as “black skin”, such as seen among the Aru islanders. 
 Tail, well-proportioned men, with frizzly hair, and of a rich 
 yellowish brown or of a chocolate colour, I saw in abundance, 
 as well as short, stumpy men, with straight hair on the head 
 and with no lack of beard and moustaches. Mr. Earl* has 
 also noticed the “ great differences exhibited by the peoples 
 of the tableland above Dilly. Some of the natives have a 
 dull yellow colour; the parts exposed to the sun are covered 
 
 * <The Native Races of the Indian Archipelago,’ 1853, p. 179. 
 2 Hf 
 
466 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 with light brown patches; the hair is straight and thin, 
 and its natural colour reddish or of a dark chestnut brown. 
 There are also found in Timor all intermediate shades of the 
 skin, from dark yellow to black or chocolate brown, and the 
 hair from red and straight to the short and woolly (in another 
 place, ‘short-tufted’) hair of the Papuas.” As in Timor-laut, 
 I believe we have in Timor a mixture of Malay represented 
 perhaps in such faces as Figs. 1 and 2, Papuan (Fig. 3, p. 
 466), and Polynesian (Fig. 4, p. 466) races. The accompany- 
 ing figures, sketched from one kingdom, will show this mixture 
 better than volumes of description; they are the portraits of 
 
 
 
 FIG. 3. FIG. 4. 
 NATIVES OF BIBIGUGU. : 
 
 people taken at random from those constantly about me in 
 Bibigucu. The colour of. skin, form of head, features of face, 
 character and distribution of hair I met with in every variety 
 and amount of comminglement. 
 
 In the eastern extremity of the island the people, I am 
 told, resemble Malays, and they speak the Malay language. 
 Among the Fatumatubia Mountains—I have it on the, as I 
 believe, excellent authority of one of the commandants of the 
 district—lives a race of dwarfish people, speaking a “ language” 
 of their own. ‘Their dwarfishness consists not so much in the 
 dimensions of their bodies, as in the shortness of their limbs 
 which are thick and strong. . They live among the rocks, are 
 great robbers and much detested. The men wear only the 
 
IN TIMOR. 467 
 
 T-bandage ; while the women go absolutely naked, and when 
 they appear to trade with other than their own people they 
 ensconce themselves in baskets up to the arm-pits. These 
 people may possibly be Negritoes. 
 
 From the market-place our way lay up a most pleasant 
 naturally macadamised road in the river bed by a very gentle 
 ascent. The cliffs, of loose shingly horizontally-lying water- 
 worn detritus, which banked it in on both hands, rose perpen- 
 dicularly often to 200 feet, through which in many places 
 elbows of strata at right angles to the direction of the river 
 protruded forming as it were a series of deep pockets, in the 
 debris of which especially where there ‘are largish boulders 
 among it, is found the gold of which this river is said to 
 contain more than any other in Hast Timor. The gold is most 
 abundantly found in pockets beneath which strata dip as to 
 form as it were a floor, the fatu-viti, the “mat (¢.e. bottom) 
 rock” of the native. The sources of this river, to which no one 
 may approach without first sacrificing a pig or fowl, are most 
 rigidly Lult. Only in one month of the year, when the river 
 is at its lowest ebb, will they dare to undertake any gold-. 
 washing, and then only after one of their most solemn cere- 
 monials. 
 
 Before deciding on a day to commence the gold-washing, 
 some of the children—in order, as I imagine, that no suspicion 
 may be awakened among the river spirits that the search is 
 intended—are sent to report whether the river is sufficiently 
 low, and in a favourable condition. On their return the 
 people are assembled, and public proclamation made—“ Oh ! 
 ho! ho! four days hence we go to gather gold.” On that 
 day the Dato-luli, dressed in all the vestments of his office, 
 proceeds (in the district of Saluki) to the top of the curious 
 Peak of Fatunaruk, where a flat stone exists which is supposed 
 to be the most sacred altar in the kingdom. Behind him 
 follow all the people—men, women and children. The older 
 men seat themselves on the ground nearer to the Dato, the 
 women, children, and younger men keeping at a respectful 
 distance. The Dato-luli, then in front of the great stone, 
 invokes the Spirits of their dead, Maromak of the heavens, and 
 Him of the earth. All then return to their homes, where each 
 acting as his own “house-priest,” kills a fowl or a small pig, 
 
 ae 
 
468 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 and offers on the Luli stone in his own house, which he then 
 carries to the river to wash the auriferous sand over. It is 
 affirmed that every one finds gold on that day—more or less, 
 all some. The ritual to be followed by one who is to search for 
 the first time differs somewhat from that observed by those who 
 have searched before. On his return from the mountain the 
 celebrant must enter the Uma-luli, taking with him a fowl or a 
 young pig, which, after he has made what appears to be a sort 
 of confession to the Dato, is killed and a piece of flesh from 
 its heart and from its jaws is offered to the Luh, the rest 
 being partaken of by bothof them. The novitiate gold-washer, 
 after receiving some sacred siri and pinang, accompanies the 
 Dato to the river, where, after another fowl or pig has been 
 killed he may collect sand anywhere at random, and “of a 
 surety he will find gold in it, for Maromak who alone gives 
 the gold will give him fortune.” 
 
 After ascending the river bed for three hours, we turned to 
 the left up the Fatunaruk Peak, 3400 feet, to the chief of 
 Saluki’s, where I spent several busy and successful. days among 
 the vegetation of the deeper ravines. This was the first 
 metalliferous district I had visited, and for the first time the 
 proportion of the people suffering from goitre was so large as 
 to attract notice from the most casual observer. 
 
IN TIMOR. 469 
 
 CHAPTER IY. 
 
 SOJOURN IN KAILAKUK AND SAMORO. 
 
 I proceed to Fatuboi—River Motaai—Crystalline rocks—A weird village— 
 Rare additions to my herbarium—Butterflies—Move on to the Rajah of 
 Samoro’s—Vegetation by the way—Geological notes—Penalties of theft 
 —Samoro — Visit Sobale Peak — Botanising under difficulties — Large 
 herbarium—Return to Samoro and leave for Manuleo, 
 
 From Saluki I proceeded with a fresh cavalcade towards 
 Fatuboi, a conspicuous quadruple-crested mountain of remark- 
 able configuration, in the Suku of Kailakuk. We had to 
 commence with an inevitable descent of more than 1000 feet, 
 to the bed of the Motaai, which, like all the Timor rivers 
 I had made the acquaintance of, ran in a deep bed within 
 precipitous walls, which in some places rose nearly 300 feet 
 in height, clothed with unfortunately for me inaccessible 
 vegetation. After following its course for four or five hours, 
 we turned off to the right, up the bed of a small'tributary, in 
 which I found blocks of pure white crystalline limestone, a 
 kind of rock I had not enceuntered before. Hence ascend- 
 ing a long steep ascent of 1500 feet strewed with disrupted 
 blocks of limestone, we reached the top of the mountain, and 
 by a narrow rocky stairway winding through a belt of impene- 
 trable jungle of thorny shrubs, were guided into the most weird. 
 spot conceivable for human habitation, into a small plateau on 
 the summit of one of the rugged eminences of the mountain. 
 Guarded on all sides but one, by vertical walls of limestone, 
 the plateau was dotted about with gigantic blocks of rugged 
 and warted voral-lke limestone, against and between which 
 dwellings standing on piles on the bare rock, were scattered 
 about. To right and left rose immense rough, almost in- 
 accessible pinnacles of the same black withered calcareous 
 crags, riven in all directions with cracks, cayerned into dark 
 
470 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 forbidding caves, and traversed by chasms many feet in 
 width and to the sight reaching down to unfathomable depths. 
 In front of one of these caves an aged fig-tree, adding its 
 awesome effect, had dropped its tendrils and wound its roots 
 into every crevice in weird and gruesome shapes. ‘The place 
 was just such as would overawe the timid and superstitious 
 native mind, and I was not surprised to see that there were 
 nearly as many Luli houses as dwellings, and that before the 
 door of the caves stood a Luli stone on which to propitiate 
 the spirits that haunted their gloomy recesses. The whole 
 summit of the mountain looked as if it had been shattered 
 to its very foundation by some gigantic convulsion of nature. 
 The natives told me that earthquakes, which were the result 
 of Maromak nodding and letting the world slide off the 
 straight for a moment, were frequent and severe. 
 
 Here I made some most curious, interesting, and very rare 
 additions to my herbarium; the most attractive an epidendric 
 orchid, and a beautiful species of passion-flower which overran 
 with its bright star-like blossoms the spiny vegetation I have 
 mentioned; while the rarest was a curious aroid, Remusatia 
 vivipara growing in soilless cracks in the calcareous rocks, 
 whose seeds, as its name implies, germinate in their capsules 
 before dropping ; and the most annoying a shrub with intensely 
 prickly foliage, called by the people there Silatick—a plant 
 much dreaded by them; for when my face was stung badly, 
 by having come in contact with its leaves, they exhibited 
 great concern especially for my eyes, and conducted me away 
 from it. I tried by rubbing several succulent leaves on the 
 affected part to allay the severe smarting, till a little urchin 
 who was following me, after shaking his head in the most 
 significant way to say that they were no good, proceeded to 
 pound down some of the calcareous rock into a fine powder, 
 which he brought to me to rub into the wounds. The applica- 
 tion was, if not curative, very cooling, but the pain did not 
 subside for a long time. After I had left the place I learned 
 that it is the juice from this tree that is applied to the tips of 
 their arrows as a poison. Among the few butterflies I obtained 
 I netted, with a heart palpitating with pleasure, the lovely 
 Cethosia lamarkii, whose azure wings had tantalised me by flying 
 along the front of the inaccessible cliffs of the river bed below. 
 
IN TIMOR. . 471 
 
 ‘The trees on the perpendicular faces of the rocks were 
 crowded with the only mammalian animal I had yet seen, 
 a lively grey monkey (Macacus cynomologus), which chattered 
 and squeaked most lustily at my intrusion. 
 
 With a few extra porters, necessitated by the considerable 
 additions made to my herbarium here, we started north-east 
 for the Rajah of Samoro’s, in whose territory stood the Peak 
 of Sobale, whose summit I wished to visit. The road thither, 
 which like all others in this grooved and excavated island 
 never betook itself along a plain, was a hot and weary up-and- 
 down trudge through fields thousands of acres in extent, of 
 tall grass and canes, sparsely dotted with bamboo clumps, 
 with Casuarinas, Acacias, and Euphorbiaceous trees, which 
 simply cumbered a vast extent of what seemed very fertile 
 black land. Starting at 2500 feet above the sea, we meandered 
 through a shallow hollow up to 2700 feet, thence we followed 
 a long winding descent—which, though interspersed with 
 humps and hollows, might in Timor be called level—to 
 1400 feet where we struck the highway of the Fahiletan 
 river-bed which brought us 400 feet lower to the residence 
 of his Majesty of Samoro, whose son received us. The river 
 banks were wooded with Casuarinas, Myrtles, and Gum-trees 
 (which had again become abundant), interspersed with dense 
 and impenetrable thickets of Bamboo-durie (Schizostachium 
 durio), which offered a splendid hold for the beautiful feathery 
 Asparagus racemosus and the tendrils of that grand Timor 
 lily, the Gloriosa superba, whose curiously coloured corolla, 
 half scarlet half orange (entirely changing after fecundation 
 to scarlet), overspread its great clumps with a fiery blaze of 
 flowers, while that once so rare and highly prized of orchids, 
 the Vanda insignis, rejoiced our way with its fragrance. 
 
 The strata cropping out in the river-bed were quite different 
 from any I had noticed elsewhere on my journey. ‘They were 
 pale-gray rough crystalline sandstones in beds half a foot 
 thick, alternating with black bands of about the same thick- 
 ness of what had been once fine mud, whose lower surfaces 
 exhibited radiating annelid-like fossil impressions. ‘These 
 stratified rocks, which dipped into the river at a high angle, 
 were in many places clearly seen to be entirely embedded 
 after they had begun to be attacked by some eroding 
 
472 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 or denuding agency, in the horizontally laid-down black 
 shingly detritus which I have already so often referred to, 
 plainly indicating that at some epoch not geologically very 
 remote, they had been long submerged, as the whole of Hastern 
 Timor seems to have been, below an arm of the sea, or pos- 
 sibly beneath an inland lake; and after some hundreds of — 
 feet had accumulated on them they were again subjected to 
 
 
 
 cam 
 
 
 
 
 Te 
 | 
 
 
 
 KERO 
 
 elevation—which has gone on so long, and may still be pro- 
 gressing—that the rivers have cut their way down through 
 hundreds of feet in height, and cleared out ravines a thousand 
 or two of feet in width. Such is the story of the strange 
 vicissitudes of Eastern Timor revealed by the buried rocks in 
 the valley of the Fahiletan. 
 
 At the entrance to the Rajah’s compound I was startled i 
 snddenly coming on a tall pole with a fringed triangle near 
 
IN TIMOR. 473 
 
 
 
 its summit, the pole, as I thought at first sight, impaling a 
 human body, and the outer corners of the triangle transfix- 
 ing each a human head. These were happily only made-up 
 representations of what at no far-back date would have been 
 realities. This ghastly sign-post, called a kero, had been erected 
 as a warning to all thieves and offenders of the dire punish- 
 ment that would be mercilessly meted out to them, just as it 
 had been (or would have been but for the intervention of 
 European law over-riding their own) to the three whose cranial 
 effigies were exposed on the kero, who had been convicted of 
 stealing fruit, as the bunch of cocoa- and pinang-nuts hung on 
 a railing below them indicated. 
 
 The law of the different kingdoms is a lew non seripta, and has 
 been handed down from generation to generation. The Leorei 
 is judge as well as king, but acts only, however, on the rare 
 occasions when a case is brought before him on complaint, his 
 judgment being for the litigants always a costly boon. Every 
 man or his family exacts justice by his own individual arm on 
 the person or his family by whom he has been wronged. If 
 the wrong-doer has goods or chattels on which a fine may be 
 levied, the wronged as a rule exacts a fine in expiation. 
 Homicide is revenged by death,. but this penalty can be 
 averted by the payment of the equivalent in money or goods 
 demanded by the relatives, and the substitution of some one of 
 the offender’s family to take the place of the slain. A robber 
 taken in the act used to be executed on the spot—and is even 
 now when the avenger is likely to escape punishment by the 
 European authorities, who have rightly interfered with the 
 old savage administration of justice in the rajahships—and if 
 the theft consisted of a living animal the head of the animal 
 was struck off and affixed near that of the robber on a stake. 
 
 Iivery crime, however small, could be avenged by death, 
 but if the offender were sufficiently rich, they could all be 
 expiated by a fine except two: adultery with any of the 
 rajah’s family, and the being a Swangi or sorcerer, for which 
 the punishment—or perhaps it ought to be called cwre—was 
 impaiement with all his family, and confiscation of their goods 
 for the benefit of the accuser and of the lord of the soil. 
 
 _ Law and justice are to be seen in Timor, at the present day, 
 emerging from the rudimentary stage. Hitherto each native 
 
474 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 
 
 has exercised “the right which formed the main check upon 
 lawless outrage, the right of private war. Justice had to 
 spring from each man’s personal action, and every freeman was 
 his own avenger. ‘The bloodwite, or compensation in money 
 for personal wrong, was the first effort of the tribe as a whole 
 to regulate private revenge. ir 
 
 As the taking of life is strictly forbidden by the Portaetae 
 and punished with the utmost severity when proof can be 
 obtained, causes before the Rajah are becoming more frequent 
 in order to obtain the fines which the wronged claims from the 
 wrong-doer for his offence, which in former times, if not paid, 
 would have been atoned for by his head. 
 
 After a day or two’s botanising at Samoro, accompanied by 
 the king’s son, I started on the 30th of April on a sure-footed 
 little pony I had purchased from the Rajah of Bibicugu, for the 
 top of Mount Sobale, travelling in a direction N. 21° W., upa 
 more gradual slope than usual to 2600 feet, whence we looked 
 down into the valley of the Buarahu. Here some of the 
 wildest and grandest scenery of our whole journey met my 
 view. It is impossible to describe the castellated crags and 
 lines of perpendicular and inaccessible cliffs that reared their 
 giant masses sheer above the landscape, or the irregular 
 blocks that thrust themselves through the grassy slopes, as if 
 they had been dropped about without any relation to the 
 geology of the region. Meantime they remain in undisturbed 
 keeping for the tourist of the future in quest of striking and 
 impressive scenery. 
 
 Turning to the left, we followed a path on another of these 
 inevitable razor-edge ridges, only the width of the path broad, 
 up which our ponies carried us with scarcely a rest to an 
 elevation of 4000 feet above the sea—a brave feat of climbing 
 which well earned for them the hour’s relaxation at Manulu, 
 where we rested before setting our faces towards the steeper 
 shoulder of Sobale. This farther ride took us round the head 
 of the valley of the Buarahu by an eerie and dangerous path, 
 dilapidated and often landslipped, in which at many points a 
 single stumble of our ponies would have left nothing between 
 us and a fall of 2000 feet into the river bed. At 5000 feet, 
 where we reached a safe road on the mass of the mountain 
 
 * Green’s ‘ History of the English People.’ 
 
IN TIMOR. 475 
 
 itself, I could freely turn my attention to the thousands of 
 violets, geraniums and labiates that decked the ground, and 
 the profusion of ferns that loaded the banks and the trees, 
 among which I observed, in the forest that covered the upper 
 2000 feet of the peak, abundance of Pandans, Casuarinas, and 
 other Pines. To my infinite disgust and disappointment, I 
 overheard the Rajah’s son tell my interpreter to warn me 
 that all the forest was rigidly Luli, boding ill for my next 
 day’s prospects. By dropping behind, however, out of sight, 
 I that night made sure of all that I could possibly carry, 
 and followed quietly through little belts of vegetation of the 
 ereatest interest to Funuruan, the little house-cluster on a. 
 lower spur of the mountain where we had arranged to camp. 
 
 I retired to rest with a well-laid plan of rising early and 
 slipping off to the mountain without being seen or followed. 
 There was little inducement to lie late, for my couch was un- 
 comfortable and the night-wind cold; I was therefore easily 
 ready for the field before daylight. After a hasty breakfast I 
 stepped quietly away for Sobale attended by my Hindoo cor- 
 poral, and thought I had succeeded in escaping unperceived, 
 especially as a dense mist enshrouded the mountain. Alas! 
 we had not gone far when I discovered that quite a little 
 crowd, following the Dato of the place, was on our trail. 
 There was no time to be lost, so I hewed away right and left 
 on the slopes below the summit, building up a high pile on 
 the ground of the most delightful specimens. 
 
 The unwonted operations of a white man, the first who had 
 probably ever ascended their mountain, kept them for a while 
 at a little distance watching my operations in silence. My 
 hopes began to rise that perhaps I was mistaken in what I had 
 overheard the day before. It was a vain delusion; for their 
 low murmured reproaches at last found distinct utterance in 
 complaint and remonstrance. The corporal was besought to 
 restrain me, and save myself as well as them from the retribu- 
 tion of sickness and death that certainly would follow on the 
 violation of the sacred precincts. I told my Dilly interpreter 
 to express my deep regret, and that I would at once desist ; 
 but I gave him to understand that he was not to bring me any 
 more of their messages nor heed me in whatever I did. Moving 
 off to some distance higher up, I recommenced on a new 
 
476 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 clump, which perhaps mzght not be Luli, and, like a drowning 
 man catching at his last opportunity, I gathered with a will, 
 unhindered for a long time; and it was not till I had another 
 great pile heaped up on the ground that their excitement and 
 superstitious fears became too marked to be longer disregarded. 
 Luckily, the thick mist which had been resting on the moun- 
 tain-tops all the morning came down in a heavy shower of rain, 
 and gave me a good excuse to return to quarters, with my 
 trophies a five-men’s load, without appearing to have recog- 
 nised that I had been offending. It was useless to attempt to 
 force an ascent to the top; there would have been an outbreak, 
 for the crest of the mountain was evidently one of their most 
 sacred spots. What I had already done excited them greatly. 
 
 The rain that fell cleared off with it the mist, and revealed 
 from our high vantage-ground a magnificent view of the 
 country, both to the south and to the north—especially to the 
 north, as far as the islands of Kambing, Wetter and Allor,— 
 which was of itself worth the long climb from Samoro’s guarda. 
 
 The careful arranging and packing of each species in 
 separate bundles of cool banana-leaves, convenient for the 
 seven or eight porters to transport, took a long time, so that it 
 was late in the afternoon when we mounted for our return 
 journey. If our ascent in broad daylight round the face of the 
 Buarahu valley was eerie, it was foolhardy when, by the time 
 we retraced our steps, it was so dark that we could not see a 
 single foot of the way. I threw my horse’s reins on its neck 
 and trusted to my general good-fortune; and it was really 
 with no affected thankfulness that I embraced the neck of my 
 sure-footed black steed, when I leaped down safely on the 
 little flat plateau of Manulu homestead. Here after a deal of 
 boisterous shouting to the inhabitants to awake—they seemed 
 to sleep with the soundness of the dead—on the part of the 
 Rajah’s son, in whose harangue the most intelligible word to 
 me was the vigorous use of Diabo, an old man the only male 
 in the place, made his appearance. Finding the quality of 
 his guests, he was at once all alacrity as far as it was possible 
 for a Timorese to be, and proceeded to rouse the womankind to 
 prepare for us something to eat, and a place to pass the night 
 in. A kid and some Indian corn supplied the first, and for 
 sleeping-quarters we were actually installed in a Lud hut, 
 
IN TIMOR. 477 
 
 from which, however, the sacred weapons were most carefully 
 removed and at the owner’s earnest request all our tobacco 
 was excluded. Notwithstanding my sore disappointment that 
 I had not set foot on the highest peak of Sobale, I slept with 
 my head on my saddle the sleep of the contented, for I had 
 gathered rare plants enough to delight any botanist’s heart. 
 
 At five o’clock in the evening of the next day I reached our 
 old quarters, but it was the early morning hours before all the 
 plants were, under torch- and lamp-light, safely put away in 
 botanical paper and placed over the fire of the drying-house, 
 in attending to which and turning the bundles several men 
 were employed all through the rene Before eleven o’clock. 
 in the forenoon they were dry enough to carry safely to 
 Manuleo, my next station, where they would be again placed 
 over the camp fire. 
 
 Retracing our steps, as if to Sobale, we descended to the 
 right into and across the Buarahu river, ascending to Manuleo 
 —4000 feet above the sea—through a rich grassy landscape 
 in which thousands of sheep ought to have been pasturing, 
 were a shepherd’s not too peaceful a calling to be attracted to 
 a region where. keros might be a possible feature of their 
 fields. Such a warning pole raised its ghastly arms against 
 the sky before us. It was surmounted this time with the 
 veritable head of a thief caught in the act of abducting a 
 horse, whose skull seemed to mock with its grinning line 
 of teeth, its abductor’s, to which it was joined by the halter 
 which in former time encircled its neck. It does seem a sin- 
 cular custom for the owner to sacrifice his stolen horse the 
 moment it is recovered, to add to his retribution of the thief. 
 A horse once stolen is gone for good, it would seem. | 
 
478 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 RETURN TO EUROPE. 
 
 Bad news from Dilly—Start thither—Camp in the open—Bees—Laclo river— 
 Rajah’s of Laicor—The Queen of Laclo—A hot ride—Geological note— 
 Matu—Metinaru—Salt marshes—A long night-ride—Return to Dilly 
 Palace—Extract from A.’s journal— Return to Fatunaba—Fevers—Decide 
 to return to Europe—Surprised by the arrival of steamer—Regretful 
 departure from Fatunaba—Revisit Banda and Amboina—Menado—A 
 lucky accident—Batavia—Krakatoa—Home, 
 
 NEXT morning, just as we had set out, we were hailed from a 
 neighbouring height by a man whom I made out to be in 
 military uniform. On coming up, he informed me that he had 
 been trying to overtake us for many days, and delivered to me 
 letters from the Government Secretary (Senhor Bento da 
 Franga) to say that Mrs. Forbes was very ill, and urging my 
 immediate return to the Palace whither she had been con- 
 veyed from Fatunaba. As the route I was following was the 
 nearest, I could gain time only by making forced marches. 
 Descending by an undulating route to the Vebirah river, we 
 reached the first level ground traversed in our journey—a 
 plateau clothed with gum-trees parallel to and sloping gently 
 with the course of the river, and about one hundred feet above its 
 channel. In being entirely composed of a perfectly horizontal 
 mass of sand and small pebbles, embedding strata of crystalline 
 sandstone which protruded through it at a high angle, its 
 geological features were identical with what I have described 
 as seen in the Samoro and other rivers I had crossed. 
 
 A little before sunset, after a march of ten hours broken by 
 a halt of only thirty minutes, we camped on a grassy spot on 
 the bank, in little extemporised grass huts. During the brief 
 twilight after the sun had disappeared, the air for some twenty 
 minutes was suddenly filled with the hum of bees (Apis dorsata), 
 as if a swarm had alighted among the flowers of the Gum- 
 
IN TIMOR. 479 
 
 trees. Just before daybreak while it is still dusk, the morn- 
 ing air is ina similar manner inundated with their noisy hum. 
 This singular habit of these bees, in feeding in the sunless 
 hours of the morning and evening, I was totally unaware 
 of till I came to live at Fatunaba, where close to our door 
 a grove of these trees grew. In the evenings the Melaleuca 
 certainly becomes more fragrant than it is at midday; but I 
 could not ascertain, what would be very interesting to know, if 
 its flowers exude their nectar, or shed their pollen more freely 
 late in the evening and early in the morning, 
 
 After a comfortable enough night, which favoured us by not 
 raining, we resumed our march before dawn. I was anxious 
 to start sooner, but my carriers refused to travel in the night 
 till “the three rajahs in pursuit of the seven maidens” had 
 set, and Rai-naromak (Venus) had risen some twenty degrees 
 above the horizon. Following the Vebirak we reached the bed 
 of the Sumasse, a river many hundred yards broad, running be- 
 tween vertical walls of shingly detritus some two hundred feet 
 high. Its channel gradually widened out into a broad shingly 
 expanse full of Tamarind trees, Acacias, Palms, and Cactus, 
 till it finally merged in that of the river Laclo (which I had 
 crossed far up at Sauo on the outward journey), over whose 
 broad tree-dotted estuarine plain, their united streams having 
 outrun their high shingly barriers, distributed their water in 
 rivulets, which near the headland of I[llimanu debouched into 
 the sea at no great distance below where we turned our faces 
 back westward to ascend again the valley of the Laclo. 
 
 A little distance up the river’s left bank we came to the Rajah 
 of Laicor’s, whose people were housed in the most miserable 
 dwellings we had seen—in low huts on the ground of a mere 
 thatched stockade of palm-leaf stems, with a platform or two 
 against the walls within to sleep on. The Rajah, an opium- 
 besotted individual, refused to help me with a change of 
 horses and men, but I compelled him much against his will, 
 to supply our whole company with the breakfast—of pig-flesh, 
 rice, Indian corn, and fresh-drawn palm-wine—which we were so 
 much in need of, it being then nearly ten o’clock, and none of 
 us had eaten since the previous evening. The headquarters of 
 the Rajah of Laclo were fortunately quite near on the other 
 side of the river, and thither we proceeded, and for the first 
 
480 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 time found some signs of state and of a more advanced civili- 
 sation. J found here a large Catholic church, which on all 
 religious days, I was told, was very well attended. The entire 
 population of the kingdom professed Christianity ; and the 
 outward indications of general advancement over their neigh- 
 bours was apparent ; but I cannot say that in individual cha- 
 racteristics I observed much improvement. ‘The missionaries 
 of the Roman Catholic, perhaps more than those of any other, 
 Church deserve the highest praise for their great self-abnega- 
 tion and for their persistence in seeking out the most dis- 
 couraging spots of the globe, where their simple life and 
 fraternal interest in the concerns of the native, have exercised 
 a powerful civilising effect. | 
 
 The present ruler being a female, all business was trans- 
 acted on her behalf at the palace-guarda, a strong, neat, 
 wooden building near the royal enclosure, in which a high 
 official was ie in attendance in command of an armed 
 euard to keep watch over the regalia and treasure stored there, 
 as well as over the prisoners sonnned in an adjoining build- 
 ing. ‘These miserable creatures, however, had little chance 
 Be escaping from the rough hurdles on which they were con- 
 demned to lie, with their feet fast in the stocks, and their 
 necks through a hole in a great log of wood too heavy to be 
 easily moved. Many of them had several months of their 
 punishment still to work off, but for what crimes they were 
 suffering I could not discover. 
 
 On my arrival, I immediately sent my letters to “Her 
 Majesty,” requesting to be furnished at once with fresh horses 
 and a guide, to continue my journey to Dilly, which she 
 courteously promised should be ready for me at daybreak. It 
 would have been too literal an interpretation of her promise 
 to have expected to get away at that hour. At ten o'clock, 
 however, the horse and guide arrived, and I started at once, 
 leaving my impedimenta to follow behind, in charge as usual 
 of an official of her kingdom and of my faithful and intel- 
 ligent companions, the Hindu officer and corporal, without 
 whom as representing the Government, my journey into the 
 interior would have been an absolute impossibility. 
 
 The broad channel, first of the Laclo river and then of its 
 tributary the Liguani, formed a magnificent highway, along 
 
IN TIMOR. 481 
 
 
 
 which I passed westward at a steady pace, under a thermometer 
 marking 110° in the sun and 92° in the shade, between low 
 undulating hills clothed with a shrubbery of Zizyphus Ju- 
 juba, and entirely composed of horizontal beds of shingly 
 detritus, till at four o’clock I struck off to the right up an 
 abrupt rise of 1500 feet by a path. studded with crystalline 
 calcareous rocks and boulders with a flinty clink, rounded 
 by attrition and perforated with holes and crevices like coral 
 blocks, bored by mollusca and sponges, which had been raised 
 up out of the sea. Strange to say, on the descent of the 
 northern slope, not a single calcareous block or stone was to 
 be seen anywhere. 
 
 As we commenced this descent, which was quite steep and 
 precipitous, in the fair way of the path we came on a little 
 mound which they called Matu, round both sides of which the 
 road diverged. Hach native with me gathered some leaves or 
 a twig from a tree and laid it on the mound, “to ensure a 
 safe descent.” On the trees near by were hung up various 
 articles—cigarettes, cois, little cigarette cases, and leaves in 
 which rice had been carried, and stumps of Indian corn heads. 
 I have recorded above almost the same custom in Sumatra, 
 where, on a large block of stone by the side of a forest path 
 something was offered by every passer-by for “luck.” A 
 parallel * exists at this day in Dauphine, where every passer- 
 by throws into a certain chasm a little stone as an offering 
 to the mountain spirit; and I believe the custom is not 
 unknown in our own country. 
 
 Reaching Metinaru long after sunset I halted to rest 
 my horse, for the first time since starting. Resuming the 
 march after two hours, I pushed on westward along the sea- 
 shore, through a long stretch of salt-marshes, which in the 
 starlight looked like snow-fields. Near Hera the flat shore- 
 lands are barred by the spurs of the hills which run out into 
 the sea there to form that high headland ; and, looking back on 
 that dark night’s ride, it seems marvellous how we surmounted 
 without accident their rocky spurs, where the path was 
 often interrupted by perpendicular steps many feet in height, 
 down which, followed by my horse, I scrambled, more by 
 the sense of touch than by that of sight. At daybreak I 
 
 * Waitz, ‘Anthropology,’ p. 321, 
 
482 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 gained the last height, looking down on Dilly and the familiar 
 island-dotted scene, and reached the Palace at eight o’clock, 
 where I was thankful to find A. amid our kind friends much 
 recovered, but showing in her emaciated figure how severe her 
 sufferings had been. When the trying strain she was exposed 
 to and her terrible position and privations are realised, it is 
 surprising not that she at last broke down, but that she bore 
 up so long and so bravely. From her journal, which she had 
 struggled to keep, I have extracted a few entries, commencing 
 some days after my departure. 
 
 “ How exceedingly still it is! Birds now come and perch 
 on the very rail of the verandah—lovely lttle things which we 
 could get only a glimpse of before; and in the near vicinity 
 the Gamut-bird practises its notes, to whose clear crescendo I 
 listen with rapt attention. Towards evening I look, eagerly 
 even, for my little woman. The first time I saw her she was 
 sitting under the sloping roof of her hut, devouring an unripe 
 mango, and I stayed to look twice to be sure that she was 
 really human. And this is my sole companion, for whose 
 return I long! Iam trying to pick up from her some words 
 of her language; in exchange I was going to teach her 
 civilised ways. I*eeling too weak to brush my hair, and 
 thinking it would be delightful to have again that little 
 attention, I showed her how I wished it done—by quick, firm 
 strokes. She nodded assent, and took the brush; but, alas for 
 my hopes—she vigorously imitated my action—with the back 
 of the brush !” 
 
 [Other visitors than birds came about her dwelling for] 
 “A wild-looking man from the mountains came past, and, 
 evidently struck by the novel-looking hut, with its appurte- 
 nances of civilisation and its white inhabitant, he stayed to 
 satisfy his curiosity, and, after going round to look at every- 
 thing, he lay down on the verandah to stare at me” ; [and] “last 
 evening at sundown my quiet was disturbed by the advent of 
 a number of mountain men, who, after coolly monopolising my 
 fireplace to roast their supper of maize at, spread themselves to 
 sleep on my verandah. It was gorgeous moonlight; and, as I 
 was very wakeful and restless, I rose to look at the group in 
 deep sleep around me. What a very strange experience for an 
 unprotected woman, in a doorless hut, on a lonely hillside, thus 
 
IN TIMOR. 483 
 
 surrounded by a number of semi-savages! I have been trying 
 to occupy myself constantly to divert me from the loneliness 
 of my situation, but I am often helpless from fever.” 
 
 “My nights quite sleepless, I lie and listen for the return 
 of the thieves ” [who had entered and robbed the house, and had 
 a second time in the middle of the night returned, decamp- 
 ing, however, on A.’s calling out, and who, had she dared to 
 oppose them, would not have scrupled to put it beyond her 
 power to turn informant. When writing to me in the interior, 
 with rare self-denial she restrained from telling me the state 
 of affairs at Fatunaba], “and am consequently daily more and 
 more attacked with fever; but I must make an effort to see to 
 the fire in the drying-house, where the herbarium arriving from 
 the interior is deposited.” | After a considerable break :] “ Long 
 bout of fever: unable to do more than sit on the verandah; 
 the silence is most oppressive; my old woman is getting tired 
 of her duty, and forgets to come to me. I dare not express 
 displeasure when she does come, lest she desert me utterly. 
 I carefully concealed from H. all mention of my loneliness and 
 of the old woman’s defalcations, as it is of the greatest import- 
 ance that his mind should be free from anxiety on my account ; 
 but perhaps it had been wiser to tell him; for I feel very ill, 
 and it is only the thought that these rare plants must be tended 
 that keeps me on foot.” 
 
 { After another long break :| “ At the point where my journal 
 is discontinued I quite succumbed to what was as much 
 neryous as malarial fever; day after day attacks came on with 
 increasing force, while my powers to help myself became 
 decreased. ‘The old woman at last would not come near me; 
 by signs and much talking she indicated that she would be 
 tabooed by her own people if she stayed by a sick person.” 
 [She doubtless feared that she might be thought a Swangi or 
 Disease-producer.] “I had then to fall back entirely on myself, 
 as she would not carry any message for me to Dilly. Fortu- 
 nately there was a store of water in our large stone tank, and 
 my small paraffin-stove was full of oil. Ina stronger hour I 
 dragged some boxes in front of my bed, and placed within reach 
 rice, salt and some vessels. Eggs in abundance must have 
 been within a few hundred yards of me in nests among the 
 grass, to which I had traced our few fowls, but I dared not ven- 
 
 212 
 
484 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 ture so farin the morning—the only time [ had a little strength 
 -—in the very high winds that prevailed. It is one phase of 
 these fevers that when ‘an attack has passed a great faintness 
 comes on, which even a mouthful of food or drink will relieve. 
 I never fully realised the boon of sick-room attentions till I had 
 to rouse myself at these faint moments to cook the only available 
 food I could take—rice-water. But the oil in my small lamp at 
 last was done, and I was unable to go to the store to refill it. 
 For some days I must have been delirious; during the nights I 
 tossed in my sweat-soaked garments, sometimes able to reach 
 out for dry ones, sometimes not; but, more than from all the 
 discomfort and weakness, I suffered from the terrible stillness. 
 Undisturbed, the rats played in wild riot through my hut during 
 the day, and in the night gnawed everything gnawable—some- 
 times they even attempted to penetrate inside my mosquito 
 curtains, within which I had dragged my store of rice. So 
 ferocious were they that I saw them seize a parrot on a tree 
 which overshadowed the hut, which they brought to the 
 verandah and devoured there, while the feathers scattered in 
 the wind. I shuddered to think how H. would find me if I 
 should die before he returned or help should come. A passing 
 lad—whom I sighted through the bamboo slits of the hut—I 
 called to me, bribing him by coin after coin to carry a note to 
 the Palace begging for medicine and aid. Just as he at last 
 consented, after much dubitation, and the most urgent 
 entreaty on my part, it began to rain [rain is always abhorred 
 by the natives], which made him hesitate in his purpose—a 
 terrible moment for me; but, espying my open parasol in a 
 corner, he seized it and marched off. I don’t know whether my 
 hilarity in my utter prostration was more at the ludicrous figure 
 he cut, his only wettable garment being his loin-cloth, or in 
 hysterical and delighted anticipation of obtaining help at last.” 
 
 As good fortune would have it, this lad met a messenger 
 from Madame da Franga, who had become anxious at A.’s long 
 silence, on his way to inquire for her. The news of her state 
 brought at once the doctor and a friend who instantly re- 
 turned for an ambulance. Though the afternoon was far gone 
 before it arrived the descent was at once begun. The carriers 
 struggled on while daylight lasted—one short hour; then, 
 owing tc the steepness of the road and the darkness of the 
 
IN TIMOR. 485 » 
 
 night, they refused to carry longer, when she had to walk. 
 After a terrible journey of five hours duration she reached 
 the sympathy and comforts of the Palace—kindnesses which 
 will be treasured by us both as long as we live. 
 
 We returned at once to our home at Fatunaba, whose beauty 
 was as fresh to us as ever, and 1t was impossible not to feel that 
 there could be no fairer spot for a dwelling. I had sufficient to 
 occupy me for several days in arranging the herbarium already 
 in the drying-house, and when three days later, the giant pack- 
 ages collected between Saluki and Laclo arrived I had work for 
 several weeks. We had not long settled when A——- was again 
 laid down with a most violent type of fever which then seemed 
 to be specially epidemic in Dilly, and to which one of the 
 Governor’s sons succumbed in a sudden paroxysm. As these | 
 attacks, notwithstanding all the remedies tried, daily became 
 more severe, we decided that as I had accomplished all that was 
 possible in Timor, and as nothing in the way of fitting out for 
 my next journey to the high mountains of South-Eastern New 
 Guinea could be done in Dilly, our wisest course was to return 
 to Europe by the mail due about the 3rd of June. 
 
 On the 30th of May, on coming out at daylight into the 
 verandah, I was thunderstruck to see the mail steaming into 
 the harbour—when there was not half of our baggage packed, 
 and all the porters to find. Hurrying down to Dilly, [ learned 
 that there would be no other steamer for five wecks, but that 
 The Lansberge would remain till next evening. Through 
 Senhor Albino’s kind aid I obtained a company of men in 
 charge of a sergeant, and, hastening back to Fatunaba, packed 
 up my collections and such articles as we most valued, as it 
 was evident that all our belongings could not possibly be 
 transported in the short time at our disposal. The Timorese 
 carriers and A.’s old ape-like woman—though she did not 
 deserve it—were made frantically happy by rewards of house- 
 hold gear and paraphernalia, plates, spoons, knives, cooking 
 utensils, old meat-tins, and gifts of such trade articles as 
 mirrors, beads, and kerchiefs, as had escaped the notice of 
 the thieves. 
 
 We were forced to leave behind us the whole rude furnish- 
 ings of the house—stoves, lamps, water-tanks, cans of petro- 
 leum, stools, gunpowder and shot, and a considerable store 
 
486 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS. 
 
 of kanipa, or gin, with filthy spirits of wine in bottles of 
 the same shape. We have often pictured to ourselves the 
 astonished eyes and the jubilant dance of the first Timorese 
 who, passing by, should find the deserted hut, and its Eldorado 
 of kanipa and the rest, especially if he commenced with the 
 snake-tinctured spirits of wine—all his for the appropriating ! 
 
 By five o’clock in the evening the last porter’s load dis- 
 appeared round the elbow of the hill; but we remained behind 
 for a little to take a last sorrowful farewell of the sweet spot 
 in which we had spent so many days of privation and sickness 
 hard enough to bear while they lasted, but which have long 
 been quite forgotten, while the supreme happiness we ex- 
 perienced in our work together and the surpassing beauty 
 of the scene on which we daily looked, will remain among 
 our most treasured reminiscences as long as memory lasts. 
 As it was impossible to obtain sufficient porters to carry A. 
 the long irksome descent had to be accomplished on foot, 
 painfully, but with uncomplaining and resigned cheerfulness, 
 for was it not for the last time? By nine o’clock we stepped 
 on board. Owing to the fall of a horse baggage and all, down 
 a steep slope, and the breakdown and running away of some 
 of the porters, it was only at sundown of next day that the 
 last of our baggage was safely shipped. By a happy coinci- 
 dence the Governor and his family—fewer by two, and wofully 
 altered by sickness—were again our fellow-passengers on their 
 way back to Europe. 
 
 In the early morning of the 1st of June we steamed away for 
 Batavia wid Amboina, and a few hours later our hut on the 
 Fatunaba rocks, glinting in the morning sun, disappeared below 
 the horizon. After one more day under the nutmeg arbours of 
 Banda, and a farewell visit to our friend’s Machik in Amboina, 
 we reached Menado on the 10th, where we were delayed by 
 rough weather. “It’s an ill wind that blows nobody good.” 
 In the gale our steamer dragged her anchor, which had to be 
 hauled in, and when it appeared it brought with it three other 
 
 anchors, where 
 ; “On an island’s winding shore, 
 There for ages long they lay, 
 At the bottom of a bay,” 
 
 each more foul than the other, with hydroid Zoophytes, Sponges 
 
Cuorssturted puLy TyTA , 
 
 ‘Ayoroog [eorydesso04y) [BAOY OY} JO Ssurpooo0r1g , 9Y} WOT.) 
 
 
 
 IsTTa iw” J 
 
 Beare AE 
 
 eee, 
 en meerernnen, 
 
 8e o¢ 
 
 ERT isn8ny ut at egglisneny ur 
 sy  uUorndnue ey sore lik uondnue oyy asojeq . 
 
 QVIVYVUN NW Do OAVIVUVE 
 g SWF i 
 
488 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS. 
 
 and Crustacea, which were specially handed over to me and 
 carefully bottled. A list of them is given in the Appendix. 
 
 Off the north-west cape of Celebes, we passed between the 
 mainland and a broad slice of land, with small trees and stumps 
 erect on it, drifting in a north-easterly direction. After 
 short calls at Macassar, at Ampanam in Lombock, and at 
 Baleling in Bali, we reached Surabaya on the 23rd of the 
 month. Here we had with deep regret at last to say good-bye 
 to the Da Franca family, to whom we had been indebted for the 
 ereatest possible official and private kindnesses, as it was 
 necessary for us to trans-ship for Batavia, where we arrived five 
 days later. 
 
 We had nine days to spare before the arrival from Brisbane 
 of the mail for Europe. These were spent in the delicious 
 and salubrious air of Buitenzorg, in packing up my bulky 
 herbarium, and in the renewing of many old friendships. 
 
 On July 9th we sailed in the British India Company’s 
 mail steamer Quetta—at last homeward bound. At sundown 
 we dropped our pilot at Anjer sleeping peacefully among its 
 cocoa-nut palms, and a few hours later passed the blazing crater 
 of Krakatoa—scenes well known and familiar to me, of which I 
 retain many most pleasing memories; but it was the last look 
 that was ever to be possible to me; for, ere little more than a 
 month had passed, both were doomed to destruction. 
 
 A study of the small maps on the preceding page will con- 
 vey some idea of the violence of the eruption, from the changes 
 that have resulted in the geography of the spot. 
 
 On the 13th of August the Quetta reached Plymouth, and on 
 the 14th we arrived in London, transported in 75 days from 
 the make-shifts, discomforts, and rough contrivances of a rude 
 hut among half-naked savages, to all the elegances of a great 
 London hotel, with its fashionable crowd, a contrast—to me 
 certainly—too great to be comfortable or pleasant for some time 
 at least. J realised that I was more than half a barbarian, to 
 whom the restraints of civilisation had become irksome, and 
 who would have rejoiced to have been at once spirited back 
 again to his swarthy friends in the Hastern Archipelago. 
 
Funu 
 
 Fahi 
 
 Naru 
 
 Fotan 
 
 Madauk 
 Want 
 Uhi 
 
 Madai béot 
 
 Madai kitk 
 
 ( 489 ) 
 
 iN OtX TO, PART. YI. 
 
 
 
 I.—Names of the Montus in Timor. 
 
 (Saluki) Bibigugu. 
 
 = 
 
 Samoro. 
 
 
 
 In this month (corresponding 
 to about our December) they 
 plant the vater, or Indian 
 corn, and sow the dry ground 
 rice. 
 
 Clear grass out from among the 
 vater and rice. 
 
 “Great month.’ Indian corn 
 is in flower. Heavy rains 
 -and all rivers flooded. 
 
 The name of the month pro- 
 bably a corruption of the 
 Malay Potong, the cutting or 
 harvest month. In it they 
 gather in the ripe Indian 
 corn, and give a great offer- 
 ing to the Luli, a sort of 
 Harvest Thanksgiving, the 
 Indian corn being their staple 
 food. 
 
 Harvest dry rice fields... 
 
 Honey and wax harvest. 
 
 Possibly a corruption of Ubi 
 or sweet potato, which crop 
 in this month is dug up and 
 
 harvested. 
 
 Month of fogs and heavy rains 
 from the sea. 
 
 Less rain; little possible to be 
 done these two months. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Leét ali 
 
 Fahi 
 
 Naru 
 
 Tora 
 
 Madauk .. 
 
 Want 
 
 Uhi bodt .. 
 
 Uhi kitk .. 
 
 Lakubutik 
 
 
 
 Same operations. 
 
 Same operations. 
 
 Same operations. 
 
 Same operations. 
 
 Same operations, 
 Same operations. 
 
 Same operations. 
 
 Same operations. 
 
 Same operations. 
 
 
 
490 
 
 Lakubutik 
 bdot 
 
 Lakubutik 
 kitk 
 
 Léet 
 
 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 4 
 
 (Suluki) Bibigugu. 
 
 Still showery 
 
 Very hot. In this month, after 
 great offering to the Luli, 
 search is made for gold, and 
 continued only during this 
 
 month. 
 
 Hot month. Grass is burned, 
 and preparations made for 
 planting the Indian corn. 
 
 Samoro. 
 
 
 
 Mada Same operations. 
 
 Funu _.. | Same operatiods. 
 
 Léet Manu- | Same operations. 
 luk 
 
 
 
 There are thus twelve months, which they reckon by moons, in their years. 
 How many days there are in a moon they did not seem to know, for the number 
 
 was variously give as sixteen to thirty-five. 
 
 II.—DIALEOoTs spoken in Eastern Timor. 
 
 In the different districts of Timor, different dialects (or (?) languages) are 
 
 found to be spoken. 
 
 The following is a list of the names of those said to be 
 
 spoken in the region traversed by, me, with the districts in which they are 
 
 spoken :— 
 
 Mambia or Kaladi... in 
 
 Tetu (more or less the ,, 
 lingua franca of KH. 
 
 Timor) 
 Idate.. 
 Lakalé 
 
 Haukenke 
 Veke .. 
 Vaiqueno 
 Galolo 
 
 Marat 
 Manobai 
 Kemak 
 
 Tocudade 
 Dagada 
 Macassat 
 Naubete 
 Meadik 
 
 Laicor. 
 
 Turseain; Motaél; Hermera; Kaimauk; Hera ; 
 
 Bariqué; Bibigucu; Allas; Suai; Hera; Saluki; 
 
 Laclubar; Bailobo ; Cotubaba. 
 
 Samoro. 
 
 Vemasse. 
 
 Cairui; Laclubar; Mantutu; Viqueque. 
 Bibigugu; Kimauk ; Vemasse; Barique; Allas; 
 
 Lalea; Vemasse; Mantutu; Fatumarto; Vinilale. 
 Bailobo. 
 Cova; Suai. 
 
 Hera; Laculo; Motaél; Lalea; Mantutu; Luga; 
 
 Manufahi; Rameau; Rolule. 
 Allas; Samoro; Tituluru; Turscain. 
 Bailobo; Cora; Sanir; Cutobaba; Kailakuk; At- 
 
 tesabe ; Boibau; Diribate ; Lameian ; Maheibo. 
 
 Boibau; Liquiga; Maubara. 
 Lalea; Faturo; Sarau. 
 Luga; Vemasse. 
 
 Luca. 
 
 Faturo; Luga; Sarau. 
 
IN TIMOR. 
 
 491 
 
 IlI.— Vocabulary of three of the above dialects, the KALADI, the TETU, 
 and the LAKALE :— 
 
 accuser 
 ache 
 acquaint 
 add 
 advance 
 afraid 
 aged 
 
 all 
 allow 
 angry 
 
 animal 
 
 ankle 
 ant 
 arm 
 ashes 
 ask 
 assert 
 attack 
 
 avenge 
 
 baby 
 
 back 
 backbone 
 
 bad 
 
 bag 
 bamboo 
 
 banana 
 banish 
 
 bark 
 
 bat 
 bathe 
 battle 
 beak 
 beard 
 beat (drum) 
 beeswax 
 begin 
 behead 
 behind 
 belly 
 beneath 
 bid 
 
 big 
 bird 
 birth 
 bite 
 black 
 blade 
 bleat 
 blind 
 
 Kaladi. 
 
 tantanharak 
 
 Tetu. 
 matenek 
 moras 
 fohatené 
 
 lauluk 
 
 kamtauk 
 
 katuas 
 
 hothotu 
 
 hobuk 
 
 hirus 
 kudakarau 
 
 ieee 
 
 aifuku 
 
 nehek 
 
 lima 
 
 aikesa 
 
 husu 
 
 sulun 
 
 labelle halistori 
 loronseluk 
 
 oe seheré 
 
 aay 
 ee 
 kotuk 
 kotuk 
 baa 
 }pegté 
 kohe 
 au; fafulu (small 
 bamboo) 
 hudi 
 disterra (Portug.) 
 bahu 
 ae (tree) 
 asungeri (dog) 
 niki 
 heris 
 hotudar 
 munu 
 hassa rahun 
 heré 
 lilin 
 foinhala 
 taulu 
 kotuk 
 kabu 
 karaik 
 orde (Portug.) 
 boéot 
 manufoik 
 foinmoris 
 tata 
 metang 
 tudik-ici 
 hemé 
 mata lahare 
 
 Lakale. 
 
 banas 
 autada 
 
 amtauk 
 maitu 
 tilirlama 
 
 bisemirus loi 
 
 nehek 
 aulimak 
 waiahu 
 
 tiukwana 
 kotuk 
 
 istori 
 
 rius 
 
 akardebom 
 amtun 
 manhui 
 
 metang 
 
 taikré 
 
492 
 
 blood 
 blue 
 boar 
 
 boat 
 body 
 boiling water 
 bold 
 bondman 
 bone 
 bore 
 
 bow 
 
 boy 
 bracelet 
 branch (of tree) 
 
 brave 
 
 bread 
 breast 
 breathe 
 bridge 
 bring 
 
 brother 
 brother-in-law 
 broad 
 buffalo 
 build 
 burial 
 burn 
 butterfly 
 button 
 buy 
 calabash 
 call 
 carry 
 cat 
 catch 
 chair 
 chalk 
 cheer 
 child 
 
 chin 
 clay 
 dark 
 cloth 
 cloud 
 club 
 coat 
 cocoa-nut 
 coffin 
 cold 
 colour 
 comb 
 come 
 
 comet 
 
 Kaladi. 
 
 hena metan 
 
 feto kiik; older, 
 feto boot 
 
 faru 
 
 Tetu. 
 ran 
 busuk 
 fahi aman 
 rokik 
 ici lolong 
 bemanas 
 totor 
 atta 
 riu 
 halukuak 
 rama 
 arrow =rama-ici 
 lavarik 
 puti lima 
 ailiman 
 { oswai 
 Asuwal 
 morteng 
 hiris mata 
 ausuhu 
 ailetete 
 hodi 
 hodi mai = bring 
 here 
 maluk 
 ria 
 naruk 
 karau 
 halu 
 taman mati 
 ahi ha 
 babeba 
 faro 
 dosa 
 ohukunua 
 bolu 
 foti taukabas 
 busa 
 lako 
 kadera (Portug.) 
 ahu 
 lorsang 
 
 . 
 
 hassa 
 tahu 
 raikalan 
 tais 
 aibabu 
 aidona 
 
 nu 
 aibalu 
 maliri 
 metang 
 sasoit 
 mai 
 
 kilat lololeting 
 
 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Lakale. 
 ran 
 riu 
 hiris mata 
 
 odi; odi ma (b. here). 
 
 narong 
 
 kabeba 
 
 atarkau 
 talui itabas 
 
 lakon 
 lorsang 
 ita haasar 
 
 lusa 
 padassi teman 
 
 aivalu 
 muruk 
 
 (are you coming ? = 
 tainte he ? 
 loroleting saki 
 
IN TIMOR. 
 
 Kaladi. Tetu. 
 to cook tengetu 
 cough Sp mear 
 country £ niki 
 courage maumetang 
 cradle a boi 
 cry f tanis (as a child) 
 curl *i futufriuk 
 cut ta tai 
 dance ay: imabidu 
 dark ie raikalau 
 daughter ee hausafeto 
 day af loron 
 dead a maté 
 deaf ve telundiuk 
 dear ee foleng toda 
 deep ae raikuak 
 depart °F baona 
 desire r haukakarak 
 dew fe mahobe 
 difficult Pe kole 
 distant os rook 
 dog 5 asu 
 door a hodomata 
 dream 2 mehi 
 drink hemu hemu 
 drown as motahodi 
 drum * baba 
 drunk ie lanu 
 dry a maranona 
 dumb vs, pakonteng 
 eagle = makikit 
 ear . telu 
 earthquake ey rainagtoko 
 early hs dadelsasang 
 east ms loro sait 
 eclipse oe ahi hafu'an 
 egg ed mantelu 
 elbow a sikruohan 
 empty a mamuk 
 enough is toona 
 equal os hanessandeh 
 evening bi lor kraik 
 expectorate ot kaubeng 
 eye “ mata 
 face * oi 
 fall et monu 
 far es rook 
 father x ama 
 fast a lalais 
 fat bokur 
 fatigue ae kole 
 feather ~ manufulu 
 fever 2 isimanas 
 finger ca lima fuan 
 fire us ahi 
 fish e ikan 
 flap e kokoreik 
 flesh a naan 
 flower ee aifuan 
 
 fly a lalar 
 
 493 
 
 Lakale. 
 
 meur 
 niki 
 
 sero 
 leokulu 
 natessi 
 atarlebidu 
 
 lelong 
 atarmate 
 tilarkadiuk 
 holing kas 
 larakura 
 tisol 
 
 mohowek 
 kole 
 lamarong 
 asu 
 
 steu mehi 
 enu 
 lodnodi 
 
 atar lanu 
 nangbut 
 misimirus 
 
 tilar 
 lamaliklain 
 busia 
 
 lelo saibutak 
 
 mantelor 
 itsiur 
 
 maue 
 atarmasoi 
 hanessansoi 
 
 aberlolok 
 
 itu matar 
 lamarong 
 itamar 
 
 bour 
 
 manuhulu 
 
 atar lelongpanas 
 laman huan ici 
 ikan 
 
 kokoreik 
 
 lalar 
 
494 
 
 follow 
 foot 
 forehead 
 forget 
 fragrant 
 
 friend 
 
 froth 
 fruit 
 
 fry 
 
 full 
 
 fur 
 garden 
 ginger 
 give 
 
 goat 
 
 go away 
 gold, coined 
 gold, dust 
 good 
 grass 
 grave 
 
 green 
 
 gun 
 gunpowder 
 hair 
 
 hand up 
 hit 
 
 hold (fast) 
 hot 
 
 house 
 
 how many? 
 hunger 
 Indian corn 
 knife 
 
 large 
 
 leads (shot) 
 leaf; leaves 
 lightning 
 long 
 mango 
 mare 
 
 mat 
 
 me 
 
 milk 
 mountain 
 nephew 
 night 
 
 pls ee 
 post (pillar) 
 
 cross-beams to hold 
 
 up roof 
 
 gable- posts 
 
 rain 
 rat 
 red 
 rice 
 
 rice (in husk) 
 
 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Kaladi, 
 
 kinur 
 
 doot 
 
 netahau modok 
 
 hamlahuna 
 bobst 
 
 railaka 
 naruk 
 
 viti 
 
 susu 
 fofo 
 
 pahi 
 airing 
 laras 
 kakuluk 
 
 Tetu, Lakale. 
 tuir loretuir auma 
 aitanlara iwetanalala 
 retos itretos 
 haluha italehaluasoi 
 mori lalemori 
 
 peluk (high) : 
 eee (low) } itu pelur 
 kisal kisal 
 aifuan aihuak 
 sona sena 
 nokonu penu 
 fulu sisilita 
 tos i 
 foeng hemuri 
 bibi bibi 
 ba uri; lamo 
 diné 
 murak 
 disk ia 
 duit ruiit 
 raté raté 
 airié = pole with 
 
 horns 
 
 matak matak 
 kilat kilat 
 kilat rahun kilat rahun 
 fu 
 lolo 
 konno 
 kair halrasa 
 manas 
 urna 
 heera 
 batai 
 
 taha; tudik 
 
 milissa 
 katemu; aitaha 
 
 naruk 
 has 
 kuda ina 
 viti 
 hau 
 
 tiu 
 raikalau 
 fahi 
 
 udan 
 mama 
 hena 
 
 fos 
 hari-mean 
 
Kaladi. 
 sea tassi 
 shut ae 
 siri (for chewing) malus 
 sleep toba 
 small 
 sneeze 
 tatoo 7 
 thumb > 
 thunder os 
 toe 
 toe, great 
 verandah (floor) 
 water 
 well, are you? 
 west 
 wet 
 white 
 wood 
 
 Tetu. 
 to 30a 
 2 rua 
 a ~tolu 
 4 haat 
 5 lima 
 6 ne 
 pee Littl 
 8 walu 
 -9 gia 
 10. ~=sanulu 
 11s sanulu resin ida 
 12 a » rua 
 is - » tolu 
 20 ~=ruanulu 
 21 “A resin ida 
 22 A rua 
 80 ~—s tolanulu 
 40 hadtanulu 
 50-~— limanulu 
 60 neanulu 
 70 ~=—shitanulu 
 80 walanulu 
 90 _—_— sianulu 
 100 = atu sida 
 101 9» 9 resin ida 
 110 a >, sanula 
 120 » 9 ruanulu 
 
 150 » >», lunanulu 
 1000 ~=—rihun ida 
 
 ranulu 
 
 IN TIMOR. 
 
 Tetu. 
 tassi 
 taka 
 malus 
 
 kiiki 
 
 kus 
 
 hedik 
 
 lima fuan boot 
 raitarutu 
 aifuan kiiki 
 aifuan boot 
 
 tolul u 
 
 hadak 
 
 be 
 
 sien diak 
 
 loro manu 
 
 sedan mara 
 
 ye 
 
 hena mitin 
 
 ai 
 
 Kaladi. Lakale. 
 isa 
 rua 
 telu 
 aat 
 lima 
 ne 
 hitu 
 walu 
 sla 
 sakulu 
 » Tesin isa 
 
 ruanulu 
 atu sisa 
 
 4995 
 
 Lakale, 
 
 Firaku. 
 u 
 lolai 
 lolitu 
 phar 
 lima 
 tahu 
 fitu 
 palu 
 siba 
 rutu 
 
 rudu lolai 
 
 rudu lolitu 
 
496 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 IV.—On a new species of COLEOPTERA of the family Crurontpm, from 
 HL. Timor. By Ovtver HE. Janson, M.E.S. 
 
 CLINTERIA FORBESI, sp. nov. 
 
 Above dull black with pale ochreous-yellow spots. Head coarsely 
 punctured, slightly shining at the sides, clypeus moderately emarginate 
 at the apex, the convex centre and elevated margins pale ochreous. 
 Thorax sparsely but rather coarsely punctured ; a sub-quadrate spot at 
 the anterior angles, an elongate one on each side behind, and two spots 
 on the disk. Elytra depressed, with a sutural and several discal rows 
 of indistinct semi-circular punctures; a large triangular patch before 
 the middle, a bi-lobed lateral spot, a small elongate one near the suture, 
 and a Jarge marginal spot on the apex. Pygidium with coarse ,inter- 
 rupted transverse striz and a small spot on each side. Under-side and 
 legs shining black, punctate, strigose and with sparse brown pubescence ; 
 epimera above, sides of sternum and abdomen with pale ochreous spots ; 
 mesosternal process long, obtuse and slightly oblique. Length, 18 mm.. 
 Timor. 
 
 This elegant species appears to be most nearly allied to C. hageni, Rits. 
 
 V.—A List of the onGanisms found adhering to three anchors dredged up 
 from the Bay of Menado, Celebes. By 8S. O. Ripuey, M.A., F.LS., and 
 J. J. QUELCH, B.Sc., F.Z.S, of the British Museum. 
 
 A. Corals. 
 
 Dendrophyllia, sp. nov. 
 
 Phyllangia papuensis, Stud. Very abundant. For a valuable paper, 
 by Mr. 8. O. RipLey, On some structures liable to variation, in the 
 sub-family Astrangiacex (Madreporaria), founded on the examina- 
 tion of this specimen, see Journal Lin. Soe, vol. xvii. 1884, p. 359 
 et seqq.; plates. (H. O. F.) 
 
 B. Sponges. 
 Tuba muricina, Lam. 
 Pachychalina sp. 
 Euspongia sp. 
 
 C. Polyzoa—Cheilostomata. 
 AKtia anguina, LD. 
 Microporella ciliata, Pall., var. personata, Busk. 
 Lepralia pertusa, Hspr. 
 Schizoporella parsevalii, And. 
 Schizotheca fissa, Busk. 
 Smithia landsborovi, Johnst. 
 Cellepora larreyi, And. 
 sp. indeterm. 
 cyclostomata. 
 Crissia holdsworthii, Busk. 
 ctenostomata. 
 sp. (apparently new). 
 
 D. Hydrozoa—Hydroida. 
 
 Tubularia indivisa, DL. 
 rugosa, D’Orb. 
 Aglaophenia philippina, Kirch. 
 laxa, Allman. 
 
IN TIMOR. 497 
 
 VI.—Propomus Fitor& Trmorensis ; compiled in the Botanical Department 
 of the British Museum. 
 
 The flora-of Timor is one of great interest, but only very limited 
 herbaria exist of it. In preparing the following sketch of the chief 
 collections made in the island I am greatly indebted for assistance to 
 Mr. H.N. Ridley. 
 
 In 1699-1700 Damrinr visited the islands; the few plants he collected 
 there were described by Ray. 
 
 When in 1787, the Bounty, under Captain Bligh, was conveying 
 bread-fruit trees from Otaheite to the West Indies, the crew mutinied, 
 and the captain, together with Davin NrEtson, botanist of the expedi- 
 tion, and nineteen others of the crew were cast adrift in an open boat, 
 near the Friendly Islands. They made their way (8600 miles) to Timor, 
 where Nelson died in 1789. The plants he collected in the island are 
 in the British Museum. 
 
 In October 1792, CuRIsToPHER SmiITH and JAmzES WILEs collected a 
 number of plants in Timor, on their way from Otaheite in the ship 
 Providence, under Captain Bligh. They took also from Timor and other 
 Malayan islands various useful plants to introduce together with the 
 bread-fruit trees, into the West Indies. The plants collected in this 
 expedition are also in the British Museum. 
 
 In 1803, Riepié, Saurier, and GuicHenot, gardeners attached to 
 the expedition of the vessels Nuturaliste and Géographe, under Captain 
 Baudin, visited the island. The expedition started from France in 
 1801, and reached Timor in 1803. The plants were described by De 
 Caisne in the Nowvelles Annales du Muséum ad Histoire Naturelle, and are 
 preserved in the Herbarium Delessert and in the Paris, British, and Kew 
 Museums. 
 
 In April of the same year RoBERT Brown stopped at the island for a 
 short time on his return from the Iter Australiense. He remained in 
 the neighbourhood of Coupang, West Timor, and made a collection of 
 considerable extent, containing many plants of extreme interest. These, 
 together with a manuscript list of their native names, are in the her- 
 barium of the British Museum, and a set is also in the Vienna herbarium 
 to which they were presented by Ferdinand Bauer, the companion of 
 Robert Brown in his travels. 
 
 In the end of 1818, GaupicHAup visited Timor in the voyage of the 
 Uranie, and in the ‘ Voyage de l’Uranie,’ chapter vili., gives an account 
 of the island and its products. 
 
 In 1818-1819, Caprain Kine visited the island with ALLAN CUNNING- 
 HAM, who made a small but most interesting collection of plants, which, 
 with the manuscript account of his travels, are preserved in the British 
 Museum. 
 
 In 1822, Rernwarpt returned to Europe with his collections, which 
 are in the Leyden Museum. 
 
 In September 1825, Captain DupErrey in the voyage of the Coquille 
 visited Coupang in West Timor. 
 
 In 1828, ZipreL went in the expedition under Dr. Maklot in the Triton 
 and Jris, to the islands, and collected a number of plants, which are 
 preserved in the Herbarium Delessert, Paris. 
 
 In 1831, J. B. SpANoGuHE, the Dutch Resident, made explorations in the 
 west of the island, and sent his collections to Holland. The plants were 
 published in Hooker’s ‘Companion to the Botanical Miscellany,’ vol. i., 
 and ‘ Linnea,’ vol. xv. 
 
 PAA 
 
498 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Early in 1840, D’Urvitix touched at Coupang in the voyage of the 
 Astrolabe, and with Hompron collected some plants. 
 
 In 1843, Captain Str EverarpD Home collected a few plants in Timor 
 on his way home from China. 
 
 Mr. A. R. WaAutAcs8, in his celebrated travels in the Archipelago, 
 resided in several parts of Timor, but though devoting himself almost 
 exclusively to the zoology of the island, he found time to make a small 
 collection of grasses, which are preserved in the Kew Herbarium. 
 
 Mr. J. E. TEysMANN devoted a long life to the botanical investigation 
 of the islands of both the Indo- and Austro-Malayan regions. In his col- 
 lecting tours on behalf of the Botanical Gardens, Buitenzorg, extending 
 over a period of nearly half a century, from about 1880-1880, he visited 
 Timor on more than one occasion. His herbarium is preserved in the 
 Museums of both Leyden and Buitenzorg. 
 
 Mr. J. G. F. RreEpDEL, at one time Dutch Resident in Coupang, West 
 Timor, sent to the Botanical Museum in Dresden a collection of plants, of 
 which a small number were communicated in 1879 to the Kew Her- 
 barium by Dr. Meyer. 
 
 THe AvTHor’s herbarium, from which the new species enumerated 
 below are described, was made in the eastern portion of the island, from 
 December 1882 to May 1883. 
 
 The various localities where collections were made, are given kere in 
 the order in which they were visited. A traverse survey was kept up 
 throughout the journey; but, owing to the extreme inaccuracy in all 
 existing available maps of several of the initial points of observation on 
 which the rest of the traverse depends, it has been found impossible to - 
 lay down my route. Only when a map representing with accuracy the 
 various positions of the heights and capes of the neighbouring islands of 
 Kambing, Wetter, and Allor, has been made, can my geographical 
 observations be utilised. 
 
 1. FatunaBA Hituis.—My camp was pitched at an elevation of 1700 
 feet on these hills, situated a few miles due south of Dilly, and collec- 
 tions made from Dec. 19, 1882, to March 30, 1888. Excursions were made 
 all round the neighbourhood. 
 
 2. ErturA.—My camp, 30th March, 3475 feet above sea level; a long 
 day’s march on my way to the interior from Fatunaba, situated with the 
 peas pe Illimanu Cape bearing N. 64° E. and the peak of Pulo Kambing 
 
 3. Fatretr.—Halting-place on the 3lst March, on the W. side of the 
 wide valley of the Komai. 
 
 4. Licipo1x.—Our halting-place on the 1st April, 3350 ft. on the other 
 side of the valley. By prismatic compass Fatete bore N. 45° W.; Cape 
 Illimanu N. 44° E.and Kabalaki peak W. 48° S. 
 
 5. Savo.—Camp of April 2nd, in the valley of the Wai Matang Kai- 
 mauk, 3200 ft., Turskain peak bearing S. 18° E. 
 
 6. Turskain.—Camp from April 3rd to 6th, 4000 feet above the sea. 
 Situation: Ligidoik bearing N. 24° W.; Pulo Kambing peak, N. 16° W.; 
 Kabalaki peak, 8. 47° W. 
 
 7. Brpigugu, Rajah’s of.—Camp 3000 feet, from April 6th to 22nd. 
 Situation: Kabalaki peak bearing 8. 75° W.; Luca Cape, S. 85° E.; 
 Mount Sobale, N. 40° E. 
 
 8. SALUKI, in the kingdom of Bibicugu.—3400 ft. April 22nd to 26th. 
 Situation: Kabalaki peak bearing S. 70° W.; Barique Mount, E. 1° S. 
 
 9. KAILAKUK, in the kingdom of Bibicucu.—2400 ft. April 26th to 28th. 
 Situation: Kabalaki peak bearing W. 10° S.; Mount Sobale,.N. 3° W.; 
 Mount Tahdolat, N. 78° W. 
 
IN TIMOR. 499 
 
 
 
 10. Samero.—April 28th to May 3rd. (a) Rajah’s of, 900 ft. Situation : 
 Mount Sobale bearing N. 63° W.; Barique Mount, S. 62° E. (6) Sobale 
 Mount, 5000 ft. to 6000 ft. Situation: Cape Illimanu bearing N. 5° 
 E.; Mount Barique E. 35° 8.; Wetter Island summit N. 11° W. 
 
 11. Lacio.—A village not far inland from the mouth of the river of the 
 Same name, near Cape Illimanu. I camped here on the 5th May. 
 Notse.— The numbers after a plant—for example: 3610, 7—indicate the 
 
 number in my herbarium, 3610, and the station, 7, where the plant was 
 found. 
 
 PoLyPeTaL®, by J. Brirren, F.L.S. 
 
 Ranunculaceez. 
 
 Clematis Leschenaultiana, DC. 
 biternata, DC. 
 Magnoliacex. 
 Michelia Champaca, D. 
 velutina, Bl. ? 
 Anonacez. 
 Uvaria timorensis, Bl. 
 glabra, Span. 
 Mitrephora (?) diversifolia. 
 Anona muricata, Dun. 
 Artabotrys odoratissimus, Br. 
 
 Menispermacex. 
 Stephania hernandifolia, Walp. (S. discolor, Walp.), 3610, '7 ;- 3815, 10 b, 
 Anamirta Cocculus, W. & A. (A. populifolius, Miers.) 
 Pachygone ovata, Miers. 
 Pericampylus incanus, Miers, 3626, 4045, 7, 
 Menispermacea, 4014 (leaves only). 
 
 Crucifere. 
 Sinapis timoriana, DC. 3787, 9, 
 
 Capparidee. 
 Gynandropsis pentaphylla, DC. 3773, 3939, 4054, 9, 
 Polanisia viscosa, DC. 3747, pods adhere to everything and thus get 
 transported; 8. 
 Cadaba capparoides, DC. 
 Capparis subcordata, Span. 
 trapeziflora, Span. 
 Mariana, Jacq. 
 dealbata, DC. 
 pubiflora, DC. 
 nigricans, Span. 
 sepiaria, L. 
 elliptica, Span. 
 sp. (bud). 4024. 
 Violacez. 
 Viola Patrinii, DC. 3491, 6, 
 Ionidium enneaspermum, Vent. ‘“ Timor?” 
 Alsodeia macrophylla, Dene. 
 
 Bixinex. 
 
 Xylosma fragrans, Dene. 
 Pittosporee. 
 
 Pittosporum timorense, Bl. 
 
 eke 
 
500 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Polygalez. 
 Polygala persicariefolia, DC. 3485,2, 3887 a between ]Qand]], 3944, 6, 
 rufa, Span. 
 humilis, Span. 
 Caryophyllex. 
 Drymaria cordata, LZ. 3910, 6, 
 Portulacex. 
 Portulaca quadrifida, L. 
 Elatinex. 
 Elatine ammannoides, W. & A. 
 Guttifere. ; 
 
 Garcinia timorensis, Span. “ Mihi ignota,” Mig. 
 Mesua ferrea, L. 
 
 Malvacez. 
 
 Malva timorensis, DC. 
 Malvastrum ruderale, Miq. 
 spicatum, A. Gr. (R. Brown.) 
 Sida cistiflora, Bl. 
 javensis, Cav. 
 humilis, W. 
 subcordata, Span. 
 rhombifolia, Z. 4067, 11, 
 paucifolia, DC. 
 acuta, L. 3549, 6, 
 retusa, L. 3665, 7, 
 Abutilon asiaticum, Don. 
 crispum, Don. (R. Brown.) 
 Guichenotianum, Dene. 
 timorense, Dene. 
 indicum, W. & A. 3886, 1], 
 graveolens, W.& A. 4016, 11], 
 Urena multifida, Cav. 3669, '7; R. Brown, Coupang. 
 Malachra horrida, Miq. 
 Pavonia cernua, Miq. 
 Thespesia Lampas, Dalz. 3438, 4010, 1, 
 populnea, Cav. 
 Hibiscus tiliaceus, DL. 3617, 7, 
 Rosa-sinensis, L. 
 timorensis, DC. 
 virgatus, Bl. 
 tubulosus, Cav. 
 Sabdariffa, L. 
 vitifolius, L. 
 surattensis, L. 3817,10 b. 
 pungens, Roxb. 3628,'7, 3858 and 3879, 10 b. 
 radiatus, Cav. (fol. integr.) 3780,9, 3879, in part, 10 b. 
 ficulneus, ZL. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 
 Sterculiacex. 
 Helicteres Isora, D. 3426,1, Flanks of hills, 1900 ft. clayey soil. 38799. 9, 
 Sterculia urceolata, Sm. ‘ Timor?” 
 Abroma fastuosa, Br. 
 Buettneria flaccida, Span. 
 Melochia acutangula, Span. ‘“ Stirps dubia.’ 
 Riedleia tilizfolia, DC. 
 corchorifolia, DC. 
 Melhania incana, W. & A. 
 
IN TIMOR. 501 
 
 
 
 Tiliacezx. 
 Corchorus acutangulus, Lam. 
 olitorius, L. 
 Triumfetta rotundifolia, Lam. 
 graveolens, Bl. 3705, 3908, 7, 
 angulata, Lam. 
 pseudo-angulata, Bl. “ Timor?” 
 
 sp. 3576, 6, 
 ; rhomboidea, Jaeq. 4090. 
 Grewia tomentosa, Juss. ‘“ Timor?” 
 
 multiflora, Juss. 3727, 8, 3932, 9, 
 inequalis, Bl. “Timor?” 
 columnaris, Sm. 3782, 9, 
 Eleocarpus cyaneus, Linn. 
 parviflorus, Span. 
 sp. (cf. E. rivularis, Viedll.). 3677, 7, 
 Malpighiacez. 
 Ryssopterys, sp. 3647, 7, 
 sp. 4086, 3758, 8, 
 microstema, Juss. “ Timor? ’ 
 timorensis, Bl. 
 Hiptage Madablota, Gaertn. 3917, 7, 
 Zygophyllex. 
 Tribulus terrestris, L., var. moluccanus, Bl. 
 Geraniacez. 
 Impatiens Balsamina, L. 
 hirsuta, Steud. (Span.) 
 minutifiora, Mig. ,, 
 sp. nov. Kew Herb. 
 platypetala, Lindl. 3503, 3922, between 5 and 6, 
 
 Geranium atfine, W.&@ A. 3818, 10 b. 3500, between 3 and 4, 
 Averrhoa Carambola, D. 
 
 Bilimbi, 1 (R. Brown.) 
 Oxalis corniculata, L. 3488,], 3507, 6, 4027, 3958 a, 7, 
 Rutaceex. 
 
 Zanthoxylon alatum, Howxb., var. exstipulata. 3653, 7, Z. timoriense, 
 
 Span. 
 Evodia lotifolia, DC. 3620,7%, 3851,10 a. 
 sp.n.? 3870,10 d. 
 Micromelum pubescens, Bi. 3612,4%, 3697, 7, 
 Triphasia monophylla, DC, 
 trifoliata, DC. 
 Glycosmis pentaphylla, Colebr. 
 Murraya exotica, L. 
 heptaphylla, Span. 
 Cookia punctata, Retz. 
 Clausena excavata, Burm. 
 (?) timorensis, Roem. 
 Citrus Limetta, Risso. 
 Simarubeex. 
 
 Harrisonia Brownii, A. Juss. 
 Brucea glabrata, Dene. 
 
 Ochnacezx. 
 
 Gomphia magnolizfolia, Span. t 
 Castela levigata, Zipp. 
 
 Burseracezx. 
 
 Canarium microcarpum, W. 
 Garuga floribunda, Dene. 
 
 “ Adhuc incognite,” Miq. 
 
502 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 Meliacez. 
 
 Melia Candollei, Juss. 
 Turrea pinnata Span. 
 Amoora timorensis, W. & A. 
 Epicharis speciosa, Juss. 
 
 (?) setosa, Span. 
 Xylocarpus granatum, Ken. 
 
 Olacinex. 
 Cansjera timorensis, Dene. 
 
 Celastrinez. 
 
 Celastrus stylosa, Wall. 3829,10 b. 
 Enonymous javanicus, Bl. 8. timorensis. 
 Eleodendron ellipiticum, Dene. 
 Salacia patens, Dene. 3804, 4075, 10 b. 
 Hippocratea paucifiora, DC. 
 
 ? cassinoides, DC. 
 
 rigida, Span. 
 
 Rhamnex. 
 
 Zizyphus celtidifolius, DC. 
 timoriensis, DC. 
 Jujuba, Lam. 4013, 4020, 11. 
 Berchemia pubiflora, Miq. 
 B.? sp. 3819, 3856, 10 b, 
 Colubrina asiatica, Br. 
 Gouania leptostachya, DC.? 3684, 7, 
 
 Ampelidex. 
 
 Vitis indica, D. “Timor”? 
 cordata, Wall. (Benth.). 3753 bis, 8, 
 adnata, Wall. 3459, ], 
 discolor, Dalz. 3592, 7, 
 (Cissus timoriensis, DC.) 
 ( ,  Jevigata, Bl.) 
 ( ,, aculeata, Span.) 
 ( 4, coriacea, DC.) 
 ( ,, arachnoidea, Hassk.) 
 (cf. Cissus mutabilis, Bl. ex descr.) 4043, 10 b. 
 (cf. V. tomentosa, Heyne.) 3450, 3467, 1, 
 
 sp. 3739, 8, 
 sp. 3644, 7, 
 Leea rubra, Bl. 3439, 1, 3895, 3896. 
 sp. 4082. 
 eequata, L. 
 sp. 3622, 7, 
 sp. 3662, 7, 
 Sapindaceex. 
 
 Pometia tomentosa, Kurz. 8. cuspidata, Bl. 
 Scorododendron pallens, Bl. (Erioglossum alliaceum, Span.) 
 Cupania mutabilis, Miq. 
 
 Ratonia sp. 3779, 9, 
 
 Spanoghea ferruginea, Bl. 
 
 Harpulia cufanioides, Roxb. 
 
 Schleichera trijuga, Iv. 4006, 1, 
 
 Erioglossum edule, Bl. 8. fraxinifoliun:. 
 Allophylus Cobbe, Bl. 3648, 7, 
 Cardiospermum Halicacalum, LE. 3682, 4087, 7, 
 Atalaya salicifolia, Bl. 
 
 Dodonea angustifolia, BI. 
 
LN TIMOR, 003 
 
 
 
 Anacardiacezx. 
 Semecarpus longifolia, Bl. 
 Buchanania longifolla, Span. 
 Mangifera timorensis, Bl. 
 indica, L. 
 Spondias lutea, LD. 
 
 Connaracee. 
 Connarus Spanoghei, Bl. 
 Leguminose. 
 
 Tephrosia timoriensis, DC. 
 rigida, Span. 
 Indigofera cordifolia, Heyn. (Wiles and Smith.) 
 linifolia, Retz. 3513, between § and 6; on rocky spots, ascending 
 to Kaimauk, 3500 ft. 
 viscosa, Lam. 
 trifoliata, D., var. timorensis. 
 Psoralea stipulacea, Dene. 
 Gaudichaudiana, Dene. 
 Crotalaria calycina, Schrank, 3887, between 10 and J]. 
 ‘ verrucosa, D. 3578. 
 prostrata, Roxb. 
 juncea, D 
 Jaburnifolia, D. 
 medicaginea, D. 3453, 4112, 1, 
 Sesbania grandiflora. 3752, 8 
 segyptiaca, Pers. 
 Akschynomene indica, L. 
 patula, Pers. 
 (?) atro-purpurea, Span. 
 Stylosanthes mucronata, W. 
 Smithia ciliata, Royle. 3542, 6, 3909, 4063, 7, 
 sensitiva, L. 
 Zornia angustifolia, Sm. 
 reticulata, Sm. B. subglandulosa. 
 zeylonensis, Pers. y. gibbosa. 
 diphylla, Pers. 3499, 6, 
 Desmodium triflorum, DC. 4073, 3695 a, 7, 
 pulchellum, Bth. 4009. 
 timoriense, DC. 
 concinnum, DC. 
 latifolium, DC. 8. Telfairii, W. & A. 
 gangeticum, DC. 3790, 9, 
 triquetrum, DC. 3421, 3449, 1; 3456, 1, 
 latifolium, DC. 34*1, 1: 3718, 3. 
 polycarpum, DC. 3453 (part) is 
 Scalpe, DC. 3996. 
 sp. 4060, 4102. 
 Dendrolobium umbellatum, W. & A.. 4011, 4023. 
 cephalotes, Bth. 
 Uraria lagopoides, Desv. 3452, 1. 
 picta, Desv. 
 crinita, Desv. 
 Pseudarthria viscida, W. & A. 
 Lourea vespertilionis, Desv. 
 obcordata, Desv. 
 Lespedeza sericea, aes 3557, 6. 
 Abrus precatorius, L 
 Dumasia villosa, DC. 3857, 3873, 10 b. 
 Mucuna gigantea, DC. 
 
OU4 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Canavalia obtusifolia, DC. 
 virosa, W. & A. 
 gladiata, DC. 
 Glycine labialis, L. 
 Soja hamata, Mig. “Timor?” 
 Alysicarpus vaginalis, DC. 
 bupleurifolius, DC. 
 longifolius, W. & A. 
 styracifolius, DC. 
 Plylacium bracteosum, Benn. 3952, 7, 
 Phaseolus lunatus, LD. 
 Vigna Catiang. 3672, 7, 
 lobata, Endl. 
 lanceolata, Benth. 3512, 3, 
 Dolichos falcatus, Klein. 3529, 3536, 3541, 6 ; 3810, 10 b. 
 Lablab, LZ. 3749,8, “ Kutu’”’ and “ Aha,” are the native names. 
 Seeds eaten by natives after four times boiling in fresh waters. 
 Cajanus indicus, Spreng. 
 Atylosia scarabeoides, Benth. 
 Sophora glauca, Lesch. 
 Brachypterum timorense, Benth. 
 Derris uliginosa, Benth. 
 Spanogheana, Bl. 
 Pongamia glabra, Vent. 
 Dalbergia pubinervis, Span. ‘Species dubia, Mig.” 
 Flemingia strobilifera, Br. 
 lineata, Roxb. 
 Pachyrhizus angulatus, Mich. 4110. 
 Rhynchosia sericea, Span. + 
 medicaginea, DC. 
 Candollei, DC. 
 minima, DC. 
 Eriosema chinense, Vog. 3430, 1, 
 Cesalpinia Nuga, Ait. 
 ferruginea, Dene. 
 pulcherrima, Sw. 4022. 
 sepiaria Roxb.? 3793, 9, Climber covering great stretches of 
 the forest with its bright orange flowers. 
 Mezoneuron glabra, Desf. 
 pubescens, Desf. 
 Cassia mimosoides, ZL. (R. Brown, Coupang). 3473, 1; 3487, 2, 
 Fistula, L. 3890, 10 a. 
 megalantha, Dene. 
 exaltata, Reinw. (sp. dubia.) 
 Absus, L. 3477, 1, 
 occidentalis, Z.? (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Sophora, L. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 2480, 3603, 4098, 7, 
 Tora, Z. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 3602, 7, 
 timorensis, Decne. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 3719, 8, 
 Bauhinia ampla, Span. 
 racemosa, Lam. 
 Tamarindus indicus, L. 3432,], Native name, “ Ru.” 
 acida, Reinw. 
 sp. (cf. B. glauca, Wall.) BR. Brown. 
 Cynometra cauliflora, L. 
 bijuga, Span. 
 Desmanthus trispermus, Span. “ Forsan Neptunia.” Mig. 
 Acacia Farnesiana, Willd. (R. Brown.) 
 tomentella, Zipp. 
 quadrilateralis, DC. 
 Albizzia procera, Benth. 3595, 7; 3770, 9, 
 
IN TIMOR. 505 
 
 Albizzia lebbekoides, Benth. 
 stipularis, Boiv. 3683, 4038, 7, 
 Pithecolobium umbellatum, Bth., 8. moniliferum. 
 ? laxiflorum, Bth. 
 Inga petrocarpa, Span. (sp. dubia.) 
 Rosacex. 
 
 Rubus rosefolius, Sm. 3874,10 b; 3518, 6, 
 sp. 3502, 6; 3913, 4026, 6, : 
 sp. 3524, 6. 
 
 Grangeria borbonica, Lam. 
 
 Prunus laurifolia, Dene. 
 
 Eriobotrya japonica, Lindl. 
 
 Pygeum sp. 3680, 3905, 7, 
 Saxifragacex. 
 
 Poylosoma ilicifolia, Bl. 3843, 10 b. 
 Cucurbitaceex. 
 
 Trichosanthes_bracteata, Vogt. 
 
 Momordica Charantia, L. £8. abbreviata, 3764, 9, 
 
 Luffa cylindrica, Roem. 
 
 8. insularum, Cogn. 
 
 Citrullus vulgaris, Z. (Cucumis dissectus, Dene.) 
 
 Coccinia cordifolia, Cogn. (C. indica, W.& A.) 4021, 7, 
 Crassulacex. 
 
 Bryophyllum calycinum, L. 3736, 6, 
 Rhizophorezx. 
 
 Carallia timorensis, Bl. 
 Droseracex. 
 
 Drosera lunata, Ham. 3420,1; on rocky spots on red clayey soil, 2500 ft. 
 Not common below 2000 ft. 3519, 6, 
 
 Combretacex. 
 
 Terminalia microcarpa, Dene. 
 Laguncularia lutea, Gaud. 
 
 Myrtacezx. 
 
 Eucalyptus alba, Reinw. 3551, 1, 
 
 obliqua, Herit. 
 Jambosa alba, Rumph. 5. timorensis. 
 Syzygium obovatum, DC. “Timor?” 
 
 timorianum, Dene. 
 Eugenia Smithii, Poir. (Acmena floribunda, DC.) KR. Brown. 
 Barringtonia timorensis, Bl. 
 Planchonia timoriensis, Bl., B. alata. 
 Psidium pomiferum, LD. 3733, 8, 
 Decaspermum paniculatum, Kurz. 3670, 7, 
 
 sp. 3585, 7; 3859, 3838, 10 . 
 Melastomacex. 
 
 Memecylon pauciflorum, Bl. 3598, 7. 
 Osbeckia chinensis, DL. 3550, 6 ; 4046, 3912, 10 b. 
 Melastoma malabathricum. 3506, 6; 3822, 3894, 10 b. 
 
 Lythrariex. 
 
 Suffrenia dichotoma, Miq. 
 
 Hapalocarpum indicum, W. & A 
 
 Pemphis acidula, Forst. 
 
 Lawsonia alba, Lam. 
 
 Grislea tomentosa, Roxb. 
 
 Woodfordia floribunda, Salish. 3425, 1, Common on the ridges of the hills 
 from 1500-2500 ft. 
 
506 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 
 
 Onagrariex. 
 Jussiva angustifolia, Lam. 
 suffruticosa, L. 
 repens, L. 
 Samydacez. 
 
 Casearia hexagona, Dene. 
 B. gelonioides, Bl. 
 ramiflora, Dene. 
 Passiflorez. 
 Disemma timoriana, Miq. 
 Herbertiana, DC. 
 Modecca populifolia, Zipp. 
 Passiflora moluccana, Bl. 
 
 Cucurbitacez. 
 
 Trichosanthes bracteata, Voigt. 
 Momordica charantia, D., 8. abbreviata. 3764, 9, 
 Luffa cylindrica, Roem., 8. insularum, Cogn. 
 Citrullus vulgaris, Z. (Cucumis dissectus, Dene.) 
 Coccinia cordifolia, Cogn. (C. indica, W.& A.) 4021, 7, 
 Melothria Rauwenhoffii, Cogn. (Zehneria deltoidea, Mig. ) 38457, 1; 
 heterophylla, Cop. 3685, 7 ; 3627, 7, 
 maderaspatana Cogn. (Bryonia scabrella, Ser.) | 
 Muellerargia timorensis, Cogn. 
 Gynostemma ? hedereefolia, Donn 
 Zanonia indica, L. 
 Alsomitra sarcophylla, Rem. 
 timorana, Rem. (Zanonia, Span.) 
 
 3792, 9, 
 
 (Sicyos hedereefolius, Dene.) 
 
 “ Non satis nota.” 
 Begoniacex. 
 Mezierea salaziensis, Gaud. (Diploclinium ? timorense, Miq.) 
 Begonia sp. 3863, 10 b. cp. Ree ae, 
 Ficoidex. 
 Sesuvium (Pyxipoma) polyandrum, Fenzl. 
 Glinus lotoides, Left. 
 Mollugo striata, LD. 
 oppositifolia, LZ. 3713, 7; 4100. 
 Umbellifere. 
 Anethum graveolens, LD. 
 Araliacex. 
 Heptapleurum verticillatum, Migq. 
 Arthrophyllum (Nothopanax ?) pinnatum, Miq. 
 Delarbrea paradoxa, Vieill. 
 
 GAMOPETAL, by W. Fawcett, B. Sc., F.L.S. 
 Caprifoliacezx. 
 
 q 
 3641, 4042, '7; 3662, 7; 3756, 8; 3899, 10 b. 
 
 VisurnuM Forest, Fawe. (nov. sp.). 3587, 3589 (part.), Tahaolat Mount. 
 
 5000 ft. between 6 and 7; 4040, 4089, 7, Foliis oppositis petiolatis 
 elliptico-lanceolatis acuminatis, basi acutis integris membranaceis glabris 
 in axillis venarum subtus barbatis, venis utrinque 3-4 prominulis ; cymis 
 breviter pubescentibus fructiferis glabrescentibus corymboso-umbellatis 
 terminalibus foliis triplo brevioribus, bracteis et bracteolis linearibus 
 deciduis; floribus omnibus conformibus; calyce breviter pubescente, 
 dentibus 5 brevibus inzqualibus integris aut irregulariter dentatis; 
 corolla parva campanulato-rotundata glabra, lobis 5 tubum equantibus 
 obtusis ; stylo brevi, stigmatibus 3-4 parum coalitis obtusis; drupa uni- 
 loculata compressa elliptica; semine endocarpio conformi. 
 
 Foliorum Jaminze impunctate 10-14 cm., petioli 14-23 cm. Bractex 23-3 
 
 mm., bracteole 1-13 m. longe. Corolla 2 mm. longa. Drupa 7 mm. longa, 
 3-6 mm. lata. 
 
IN TIMOR. 507 
 
 
 
 This species appears to be near to V. Zippelii, Miq., V. punctatum, 
 Ham., but differs in the leaves and the indumentum of the calyx. 
 Viburnum (sp., aut var. prec.?) foliis ovato-lanceolatis acuminatis basi 
 obtusis; drupa obovata (flores non vidi). 3872, 10 b. 
 
 Compositx. 
 
 Vernonia cinerea, Less. 4059, 1, 
 var. erigeroides. (R. Brown, Coupang.). 
 var. ¢. DC. (V. parviflora, Reinw.). (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Elephantopus scaber, L. 
 Adenostemma viscosum, Forst. (R. Brown, Coupang.). 
 Dichrocephala latifolia, DC. 3537, 4066, 6, 
 Microglossa volubilis, DC. 3621, 7, 
 Baccharis? arborea, L. 
 Blumea tenella, DC. (Timor only; see note on Timor species of Blumea, 
 by C. B. Clarke, in ‘ Fl. Brit. Ind.’ iii. 671.) 
 fasciculata, DC. (excl. sp. Birman.). 
 timorensis, DC. 
 laciniata, DC. (B. cichoriifolia, DC.) 
 sessiliflora, Decne. 
 acutata, DC. 
 viminea, DC. 
 balsamifera, DC. 3498, 2; and at Kilehoho, 3400-4000 ft. between 
 
 2 and 3, 
 Wightiana, DC. (Timor, Teysmann; see Martelli in ‘N. Giorn. 
 Bot. Ital.’ xv. 290.) 
 Pluchea indica, Less. 
 Spheranthus africanus, L. (S. microvephalus, DC.) 
 Monenteles redolens, Labill. 
 tomentosus, Schz. Bip. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Gnaphalium luteo-album, L. 3943, between 2 and 3; 4025, 6, 
 Wedelia calendulacea, Less. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 3497, valley of 
 Erlihumauberek, 3500 ft. April. 3848, 10a. 
 Wollastonia moluccana, DC. (Wedelia, B. & H.) 3928, § (also specimen 
 with 3567). 
 asperrima, Decne. 
 glabrata, DC. 
 Wedelia biflora, Hook. f. (Wollastonia scabriuscula, DC.) 3567, 6, 
 Bidens pilosa, L. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 3488, 3489, 2 ; 3595, 6 ; 3704 a, 7, 
 Tagetes patula, Z. 3559. In abundance by the sides of stream below 
 Turskain, 3000 ft.; distant from any habitation. (Native of Mexico.) 
 Chrysanthemum coronarium, LZ. Cultd.; native of Mediterranean regions. 
 Centipeda orbicularis, Zour. 3667, 7, 
 Erechthites quadridentata, DC. 
 Emilia sonchifolia, DC. 3443, 1 ; 3493, 3955, 6, 
 Senecio appendiculatus, Less. (fide Decaisne; “endemic” in Mauritius, 
 J. G. Baker.). ; 
 Lactuca levigata, DC. (Aracium levigatum, Mig.) 3706, 7, 
 
 Rubiacez. 
 Nauclea grandifolia, DC. 
 glandulifera, Span. 
 sericea, Span. 
 sp.; 3769, 9, 
 Hymenodyction timoranum, Mig. (Cinchona timorana, Span.) 
 Dentella repens, Forst. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang). 
 Argostemma timorense, Benn. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Oldenlandia paniculata, LZ. 3797; 9, (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 sp., flowers white. 3547, 6, 
 alata, Ken. (pterita, Miq.). 
 Ophiorrhiza tomentosa, Jack. 3934, 9, 
 Mungos, Z. (R. Brown, Coupang; “ Nama.” 
 
508 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Musseenda frondosa, L. 3433, ], 
 
 Randia maculata, Span. ° 
 
 Fernelia buxifolia, Lam. Var. timorensis, Decne. F. buxifolia occurs only in 
 Mauritius and Rodriguez. 
 
 Guettarda speciosa, L. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang. 
 
 Timonius Rumphii, DC; 3659, 7%, Var. 3436, 3906 (with 3646), 1, 
 
 Knoxia corymbosa, Willd. 3523, 4028, 4069, 6, 
 
 Canthopsis pubiflora, Mig. (Endemic monotypic genus.) A. Cunningham, 514. 
 
 Ixora timorensis, Decne. (Pavetta timorensis, Miq.). 3798,9, 4076, 7, 
 
 (found also in Australia). 
 coccinea, LD. (Sir E. Home, Coupang.) 
 
 IxorA GRACILIS, R. Br. mss. (R. Brown and D. Nelson, Timor, Herb. Banks.)— 
 Stipulis basi connatis dilatato-ovatis abrupte et longiter cuspidatis, persis- 
 tentibus ; foliis glabris petiolatis lanceolatis aut ovali-lanceolatis utrinque 
 acutis aut apice subacuminatis, 6-15 cm. longis, supremis seepe parvis basi 
 rotundatis, membranaceis, nec nigris siccatis, venis pluribus patulis 
 tenere venulosis; corymbis terminalibus gracilibus trichotome ramosis 
 laxis, 12-16 cm. altis, 12 cm. latis, pedicellis brevissime pubescentibus 
 corolle tubo brevioribus, bracteolis parvis subulatis; calyce brevissime 
 pubescente, dentibus 4 brevibus triangulari-ovatis acutis ; corolla glabra, 
 tubo angusto 11-14 mm. longo, laciniis 4 ellipticis acutis 8 mm. longis; 
 staminibus 4 exsertis; stylo parum exserto, ramis 2 brevibus acutis 
 reflexis ; bacca 6-7 mm. lata, pyrenis laut 2. The flowers are quite unlike 
 those of J. nigricans, as the tube is more slender, and the limb in bud 
 is more than twice as broad. 
 
 IxXORA QUINQUIFIDA, R. Br. mss. (D. Nelson, Timor, in Herb. Banks.).—Stipu- 
 lis basi connatis triangularibus cuspidatis deciduis ; foliis glabris breviter 
 petiolatis Janceolato-oblongis acuminatis basi subobtusis subcoriaceis, 
 11-21 cm. longis; paniculis terminalibus brachiatis, 9 cm. altis et latis, 
 pedicellis glabris corollze tubo brevioribus, bracteis parvis vix 2 cm. 
 longis ovatis acuminatis, bracteis secondariis 7 mm. longis, bracteolis 
 nullis aut caducis; calycis glabri dentibus brevissimis aut obsoletis; 
 corollz fauce barbato, tubo 10 cm. longo, laciniis 5 ellipticis acutis, 6-7 
 mm. longis; staminibus 5 exsertis; stylo parum exserto, ramis 2 brevibus 
 acutis. 
 
 Pavetta indica, L. 3675, 7, 
 
 longipes, DC. . 
 
 Myonima ovata, Decne. (Mauritius.) 
 
 Morinda citrifolia, LD. 
 
 Gynochtodes coriacea, Bl. 
 
 Psychotria montana, Bl. 3903, 3907, 3916, 10 b. 
 
 barbata, Span. 
 ? sp. parviflora, Span. (D. Nelson in Herb. Banks). 
 
 Chasalia capitata, DC. (Mauritius; Timor, fide Decaisne.) 
 
 Geophila reniformis, G. Don. 3715, 8, 
 
 Peederia foetida, Z. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang, “ Tali.”) . 
 
 Spermacoce stricta, Linn. f. (R. Brown, Coupang.) . 3666, 7, 
 
 ocymoides, Burm. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 hispida, L. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 
 Bigelovia sociata, Span. 
 
 ? pumila, Span. 
 ? angustifolia, Span. 
 
 Galium rotundifolium, L. 3861, 10 b; 6000 feet ; 4070, 6. 
 
 6; 4000 feet. 
 
 Goodenoviex. 
 Sceevola Lobelia, LZ. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang.) 
 
 Campanulacez. 
 Sphenoclea zeylanica, Gert. 
 
 »  Wahlenbergia gracilis, DC. On rocky exposed banks, 3511 and 4048, 3; 
 3914, 4065, 7. 3 
 
IN TIMOR. 509 
 
 Vacciniacex. 
 
 VACCINIUM TIMORENSE, Fawe. (nov. sp.),—Frutex, ramulis petiolis racemis 
 calycibusque pubescentibus; foliis brevi-petiolatis lanceolatis utrinque 
 acutis 22-30 mm. longis integris planis coriaceis glabris supra lucidis 
 subtus pallidis; racemis 4 cm. longis axillaribus subsecundis, pedicellis 
 6-8 mm. longis; calyce 2-3 mm. longo, lobis tubi longitudine acutis ; 
 corolla 4-6 mm. longa tubulari rosea; filamentis staminum pilosis, loculis 
 antherarum ellipticis minutissimis spinulis tectis dorso muticis in tubulos 
 breves rectos apice apertos productis ; disco epigyno pubescente extrorsum 
 sinuato; bacca 5 mm. longa globosa glabrescente nigra. This species 
 differs from V. ellipticum especially in the flat lanceolate leaves and 
 glabrous fruits. ‘3423, straggling shrub; rose-coloured flowers; dark 
 green fruit, becoming black when ripe; 1], 3586, large shrub; flowers 
 scarlet ; Tahaolat Mt., 5000 feet; April.” 
 
 8. denticulatum. ‘3447, large bush, flowers rose-coloured, on slopes of 
 gorges. Foliage larger than in 3423, and margins of leaves slightly 
 denticulate ; ],” 
 
 Epacridex. 
 
 LEUCOPOGON OBOVATUS, Fawe. (nov. sp.),—Frutex erectus, ramulis pubes 
 centibus; foliis confertis erecto-imbricatis sessilibus obovato-lanceolatis 
 acutis, mucrone rigido terminatis, planis seepe subconcavis, 15 mm. longis, 
 3 mm. latis; pedunculis axillaribus brevissimis 1- aut 2-floris; bracteis 
 minimis; bracteolis latis obtusis, calyce dimidio brevioribus; calycis 
 laciniis latis obtusis mucronatis ciliolatis 24 mm. longis ; corolla calycibus 
 longiore, lobis acutis; staminibus fauci affixis, antheris obtusis; ovario 
 5-loculari; drupa 1- aut 2-loculari subglobosa calycibus longiore, disco 
 hypogyno subconvexo sublobato coronata. This species resembles L. 
 ruscifolius, L. moluccanum, L. lancifolius, and L. javanicus, but differs in 
 several particulars, such as shape of leaves, sepals, and fruit. 3493 a. 
 On top of Tehulah, 4000 feet ; April; fruit green. 
 
 Plumbaginex. 
 
 Plumbago zeylanica, L. 3778, 3778a, 9, (R. Brown’s list, Coupang, “ Akar 
 lucca.”’) 
 
 Primulacez. 
 
 Lysimachia decurrens, Forst. 3501, 6, In this specimen the stamens are 
 not so long as the oblong corolla tubes; but this may be due to di- 
 morphism. 
 
 Myrsinezx 
 
 Mesa indica, A. DC.; 3613,7. Var. Wightiana, A. DC. (leg. Spanoghe, fide 
 Scheffer). 
 
 M#sa PULCHELLA, Fawce. (nov. sp.),—Foliis petiolatis glabris levigatis 
 nitidis integris aut glandulose remote serratis, lanceolatis utrinque acutis 
 chartaceis; racemis basi ramosis axillaribus et terminalibus folio sub- 
 longioribus glabris; pedicellis florem equantibus; bracteis lanceolatis 
 acuminatis, pedicelli triplo brevioribus; bracteolis ovato-lanceolatis 
 ciliolatis calyce multo brevioribus; floribus pentameris; calycis laciniis 
 triangularibus ciliolatis; corolla calyce duplo longiore, laciniis ovato- 
 rotundatis; ovarium fere inferum. 
 
 Folia 10-13 cm. longa, 3-4 cm. lata venis primariis utrinque 4-5, secundariis 
 obseuris. 3556, 3566, @ ; 3573, river banks, 6; 4103, 8, 
 
 Mesa verrucosa, Scheff. 3763, small tree, 9, 
 
 leucocarpa, Bl. (“ Timor? prope Mallathoi, Reinwardt,” Scheffer). 
 Ardisia Spanoghei, Scheff. (Spanoghe). 
 frangulelifolia, Scheff. Zipp. mss. ; leg. Zipp. et Span.) 
 Ebenacezx. 
 Diospyros timoriana, Miq. 
 montana, Roxb., var. cordifolia, Hiern. 
 maritima, Bl. 
 
os 
 
 510 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Oleacez. 
 
 Jasminum Sambac, At. A. Cunningham. 
 simplicifolium, Forst. R. Brown. 
 pubescens, Willd. A. Cunningham. 
 
 Chionanthus montana, Bl. 
 
 timorensis, Bl. 
 Noronhia emarginata, Pet. Th. 
 Nyctanthes arbor-tristis, L. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 
 Apocynacezx. 
 
 MeEtopints Forsesu, Fawe. (nov. sp.),—Foliis ovato-lanceolatis basi rotun- 
 datis breviter petiolatis glabris supra nitidis pergamaceis; cymis termina- 
 libus folio multo brevioribus multifloris coarctatis, ramis pedicellisque 
 incano-subvelutinis glabrescentibus bracteatis, pedicellis calyce brevioribus, 
 “ floribus albis fragrantibus,” (H.O.F.) ; lobis calycinis ovatis obtusis glabris 
 ciliatis; corolla extus subvelutina, tubo tereti intus supra stamina dense 
 velutino, limbi laciniis oblique obovato-rotundatis parce et brevissime pilosis, 
 fauce hispidis, squamis 10 linearibus acutis glabris superne liberis inferne 
 decurrentibus ; staminibus ad medium tubum inclusis, filamentis anthera 
 duplo brevioribus; ovario supra basim unicellulari, stigmatis apiculo bifido. 
 
 Folia 12-14 cm. longa, 34-4 cm. lata, petioli 5-6 mm. longi. Corolla 
 tubus 10 mm., limbus 6 mm. longus. 3708,7%, This species comes near 
 to M. Cumingii, but the flowers are smaller, the stamens placed higher 
 up in the tube, and the apex of the stigma is bifid; the ovary is only 
 partially two-celled. 
 
 Melodinus terminalis, Span. (undescribed; perhaps the same as the species 
 described above). 
 
 Carissa Carandas, L. 
 
 Rauwolfia sumatrana, Jack, var. longifolia, Bl. 
 
 Alyxia Spanogheana, Miq. 
 
 Tabernemontana orientalis, R. Br. 3781, 9. 
 
 Vallaris Pergulana, Purm. 
 
 Parsonsia spiralis, Wall. 
 
 Cerbera Odallam, Gert. 
 
 Wrightia pubescens, R. Br. 
 
 calycina, A. DC. var. y. Miq. 
 tinectoria, Bl. 
 timorensis, Miq. 
 Spanogheana, Miq. 
 Alstonia scholaris, R. Br. 
 spectabilis, R. Br. 
 macrophylla, Wall. 
 sericea, Bl. 
 
 Anodendron paniculatum, A. DC. 
 
 Plumeria acutifolia, Poir. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang, “ Bonge tonke.”’) 
 
 Vinca rosea, Willd. (“In hortis,” Spanoghe). Abundant in river beds below 
 Kalakuk. 
 
 Asclepiadex. 
 Cryptolepis laxiflora, Bl. 
 Secamone micrantha, Decne. 
 timorensis, Deene. 
 Calotropis gigantea, Br. (R. Brown’s list Coupang, “ Daun susu.”) 
 Tylophora crassifolia, Decne. (Zipp. mms.) 
 villosa, Bl. (fide Zippel). 
 cuspidata, Deene. (Zipp. mss.) 
 Marsdenia tenacissima, Wight & Arn. 
 Pergularia odoratissima, Sm. 
 bifida, Decne, (Zipp. mss.) 
 tomentosa, Span. (P. crocea, Zipp. mss.) 
 Dregea volubilis, Benth. 
 Gymnema syringzfolia, Benth. 
 
IN TIMOR. oll 
 
 Gymnema albidum, Decne. 
 
 Dischidia orbicularis, Decne. 
 
 timorensis, Decne. 
 
 Hoya laurifolia, Decne. 
 
 CEROPEGIA OBTUSILOBA, Fawe. (nov. sp.),—Volubilis, glabra; foliis ovatis 
 attenuato-acuminatis basi rotundatis membranaceis ciliolatis subrepando 
 dentatis, lamina 5-7 cm. longa, petiolo 1-2 cm. longo; pedunculis folliis 
 dimidio brevioribus, floribus 3-7 pedicellatis; calycis laciniis subulato- 
 acuminatis 2-24 mm. longis; corollis 14-23 cm. longis, tubo intus circa 
 stamina piloso; corone lobis exterioribus 10 brevibus obtusis pilosis 
 interioribus 5 longis linearibus subspathulatis. 3801, flowers dark reddish- 
 brown; 9, 
 
 Loganiacex. 
 Buddleia asiatica, Lour. 3723, 8, 
 Strychnos ligustrina, Bl. 
 Mitrasacme pygmea, Br. 3492, 3; 3884, 10 hb. 
 trinervis, Span. Probably same as M. pygmea. 
 Geniostoma montanum, Zoll. & Mor. 3552, 6; 3616, 3654, 3947, 7, 
 
 Boraginex. 
 Tournefortia argentea, L. f. (Spanoghe, R. Brown’s list, Coupang.) 
 sarmentosa, Lamk. 3835, 10b 
 Cordia subcordata, Lamk. (Wiles and Smith, Coupang.) 
 trichostemon, DC. 
 subpubescens, Decne. (‘ Kanoena,” Spanoghe.) 
 Ehretia laurifolia, Decne. 
 timorensis, Decne. 
 buxifolia, Roxb. 
 Heliotropium indicum, LZ. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang, “ Daun futer.”) 
 Convolvulacez. 
 Argyreia Reinwardtiana, Miq. 
 Guichenotii, Chois. 
 Lettsomia setosa, Roxb. 
 Tpomeea bona-nox, LZ. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang.) 
 grandiflora, Lamk. 3773, 9, 
 capillata, Span. 
 aquatica, Forsk. (5. reptans, Poir., R. Brown’s list, Coupang.) 
 reniformis, Chois. 
 angustifolia, Jacg. 3754, 8, 
 chryseides, Ker. 
 trichocalyx, Steud. (? R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 obscura, Ker. 4004, 1, 
 sepiaria, Ken. 
 campanulata, L. 
 cymvusa, Roem. 
 petaloidea, Chois. 
 pes-capree, Sw. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang.) 
 vitifolia, Sw. 
 pumila, Span. 
 digitata, L. 
 Quamoclit, Z. 3871,10 b. 
 repanda, Jacq. (Wiles and Smith, Coupang.) 
 hederacea, Jacq. 3776, 9; 4105, 1; 4108, 9, (R. Brown, Cou- 
 
 pang.) 
 Hewittia bicolor, Wight. 
 Convolvulus parviflorus, Vahl. 
 Porana volubilis, Burm. 
 racemosa, Roxb. 4104, 1 
 Evolvulus alsinoides, L. 
 Cuscuta reflexa, Roxb. 
 monogyna, Vahl. 
 
512 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Solanacee. 
 Lycopersicum esculentum, Mill. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang, ‘“ Mattee 
 mattee.”’) 
 Solanum aviculare, Forst. 
 dianthophorum, Dun. 
 horridum, Dun. 
 violaceum, Br. 
 verbascifolium, LZ. 3623, 7 ; 3898, 10 b; 4036, 7, 
 nigrum, L. 3785, 9; 3826, 3881, 10 b. 
 indicum, L. 3841,10 b. 
 barbisetum, Nees. ? 3634, 7; 4008, 8; 4096, 10, 
 Melongena, L. 3786, 9; 4091, 1; flowers small, 8 lines in 
 diameter; fruit, 1 inch. 
 torvum, Sw. 3806,10 b. 
 deuticulatum, Bl. 3164, 1, 
 Capsicum frutescens, L. Spanoghe. 
 minimum, Roxb. 
 Nicotiana suaveolens, Lehm. 
 Tabacum, LZ. H.O.F. No number. 
 Physalis minima, L. 
 Datura Metel, L. 
 fastuosa, L. 3759, 9; 4064, 9, 
 
 Scrophularinee. 
 
 Mazus levifolius, BI. 
 gratissima, Bl. 
 Herpestis floribunda, Br. 
 Monniera, H.B.K. 
 Bonnaya brachiata, Link & Otto. 
 veroniceefolia, Spreng. 
 Buchnera arguta, Decne. 
 ramosissima, R. Br. 
 tomentosa, B/. 3805, 3811, 10 b. (KR. Brown, Coupang.) 
 asperata, R. Br. 
 
 BUCHNERA TIMORENSIS, Fawe. (nov. sp.),—Pubescens, caule erecto simplici 
 10-238 cm. alto; foliis oppositis integris, radicalibus et infimis subrosulatis 
 obovatis 8-16 mm. longis, caulinis oblongis et superne linearibus; spict 
 interrupta ; bracteis 2-23 mm. longis, lanceolatis acuminatis pubescentibus 
 calyce plus dimidio brevioribus; calyce fructifero 4-5 mm. lougo, 2 mm. 
 lato, pubescente, dentibus brevibus lanceolatis; corolla glabra 1-13 cm. 
 longa, tubo calyce duplo longiore ; capsulis vix exsertis. ‘This species 
 differs from its nearest Australian allies, and also from B. arguta, in the 
 large corolla combined with small leaves and low simple stem. 3494; 
 flowers pink; among grass on top of Kilehoho; between 2 and 8, at 4600 
 feet. 
 
 BUCHNERA EXSERTA, Fawe. (nov. sp.).—Scabro-pubescens, caule erecto ramoso 
 74-9 dm. alto; foliis alternis, superioribus suboppositis lanceolato-oblongis 
 obtusis integris aut repando-dentatis; spica multiflora interrupta ; 
 bracteis ovato-lanceolatis scabris, calyce dimidio brevioribus, infimis 
 seepe longioribus; calyce fructifero 4-5 mm. longo, 2 mm. lato, pubescenti- 
 scabro, dentibus brevibus triangularibus acutis; «orolla glabra calycibus 
 duplo longiore; capsulis longe exsertis. Tis species is rem .rkuble for its 
 long capsule. 3811, bis. 10 b. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 
 Striga Spanogheana, Migq. 
 
 parviflora, Benth. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 3737; flowers bluish- 
 purple, 8, 
 multiflora, Benth. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Torenia minuta, Bl. 3483, 1; 3950 7, 
 peduncularis, Benth. 3440, 4058, 1, The flowers are somewhat 
 smaller than in the description in ‘F]. Brit. Ind.,’ the lower stamens 
 are longer and the upper shorter than in plate 4229, Bot. Mag. 
 
IN TIMOR. 513 
 
 
 
 Scoparia dulcis, Z. 4109. 
 Sopubia trifida, Ham. 3555, 6, 
 
 Gesneracez. 
 Rhyncoglossum obliquum, Bl. 
 Epithema Brunonis, Decne. 
 
 difforme, Span. 
 
 CYRTANDRA SERRATA, awe. (nov. sp.), “ Arbuscula ” (H. O. F.),—Foliis serra- 
 tis late lanceolatis utrinque attenuatis subinzequalibus glabris, majoribus 
 2 dm. longis, 45 mm. latis, nervis obscure pubescentibus primariis laterali- 
 bus utrinque 8-10, petiolis 15-20 mm.; pedunculis 0-5 mm.; bracteis 
 (? caducis) ; pedicellis 2-3, 2 cm. longis, umbellatim ortis; calyce fructifero 
 6-8 mm. longo, 5-fido, campanulato, glabro, lobis 4 mm. longis lanceolatis 
 acuminatis ; corolla ...; ovario . . .; disco annulari; bacca ellipsoidea. 
 Apparently near to C. cwneata, but differs in being glabrous, in the serrate 
 long-petioled leaves, and the short peduncles. 3868, 3883, 10 b. 
 
 Bignoniacee. 
 Millingtonia hortensis, L. /f. 
 Dolichandrone Rheedii, Seem. 
 Colea ramiflora, DC. 
 
 Pedalinez. 
 . Josephinia Imperatricis, Vent. 
 Sesamum indicum, DO. (R. Brown, Coupang, “ Lena.”) 
 Martynia diandra, Glov. 3454, and 4052,], (Mexico.) 
 
 Acanthacex. 
 
 Thunbergia fragrans, Roxb. (R. Brown, and Smith and Wiles, Coupang.) 
 fragrans, var. levis, C. B. Clarke. 3783, 9; 3852, 10 a; 4053, 1, 
 hastata, Decne. 
 
 Nomaphila petiolata, Decne. 
 
 Sautiera Decaisnii, Nees. (monotypic endemic genus). A. Cunningham, 320. 
 
 Ruellia hirsuta, Nees. 
 
 Decaisniana, Nees. 
 prostrata, Lam., var. dejecta, C. B. Cl. 
 Strobilanthes timorensis, Nees. 
 aspera, Decne. A. Cunningham. 
 Barleria Prionitis, L. 
 Lepidagathis humifusa, Decne. 
 : javanica, Bl. 
 repens, Decne. 
 Justicia Gendarussa, L. f. 3774, 9, 
 procumbens, L. 3986, 2; 3528, 6; 3691, 7, 
 Eranthemum bicolor, Schr. (R. Brown, and Smith and Wiles, Coupang.) 
 Dicliptera glabra, Decne. A. Cunningham. 
 eriantha, Decne. 
 spicata, Deene. 
 Burmanni, Nees. 
 
 Peristrophe albiflora, Hassk. 
 
 Hypoestes rosea, Decne. 
 
 Asystasia chelonoides, Nees. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 
 coromandeliana, Nees. 4083, 8; 4047, 7, 
 
 DIANTHERA TERMINALIS, F'awe. (nov. sp.),—Caule debili, inferne decumbente ; 
 foliis longe petiolatis, lanceolatis, utrinque acuminatis, ssepe basi rotun- 
 datis, supra paucissimis pilis, infra nervis pubescentibus, majoribus cum 
 petiolo 15 em. longis 4 cm. latis, superioribus subsessilibus 23-5 cm. 
 longis; paniculis terminalibus pubescentibus 5-25 cm. longis, ramis 
 oppositis dichotomis, pedicellis brevissimis filiformibus; bracteis et brac- 
 teolis minutis, subulatis; calyce 5-partito, laciniis sequalibus subulatis, 
 breviter glanduloso-pubescente; corolla 1 em. longa, tubo recto; labio 
 superiore bifido; staminibus 2 ad medium tubum corolle affixis, non ultra 
 summum tubum attingentibus, filamentis filiformibus; disco annulari ; 
 
 2G 
 
514 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 capsula oblonga apice acuta tetrasperma. 3814, 10 a; 3821, 4030, 10 b; 
 var. grandiflora, corolla 13 em. longo, tubo ampliato; paniculo glanduloso- 
 pubescente. Zollinger, No. 2951, Java. 
 
 Verbenacex. 
 
 PETRHA ARBOREA, Kunth., Smith and Wiles.—No species of this tropical 
 American genus has hitherto been recorded as spontaneous in the Old 
 World, but Mr. Forbes has also met with it in Java in an undoubtedly 
 wild state, and in great plenty (see p. 78). It is not at all improbable that 
 it will be met with in other localities. A nearly allied genus has lately 
 been described by Prof. Oliver in Ic. Plant. (Pl. 1420), namely Petreeovitex. 
 The only species of this genus known, P. Riedelii, was obtained a short 
 time ago by Mr. Riedel’s collectors in the island of Buru; but it is 
 reported from Amboina by Rumphius (Vol. y., p. 4, t. 3) in 1747 under the 
 name Funis quadrifidus, and specimens in fruit exist in Brit. Mus. Herb., 
 collected by Christopher Smith in 1798 in Honimoa or Saparua, an 
 island near Amboina. 
 
 Vitex trifolia, Z., var. unifoliata. 3726, 3, 
 
 pubescens, Vahl. 4056, 1, 
 Negundo, Z. (R. Brown, Coupang, “ Lagoundi.”) 
 timoriensis, Walp. A. Cunningham. 
 
 CLERODENDRON PULCHRUM, Fawe. (nov. sp.),—Ramulis, paniculis, et petiolis 
 brevissime tomentosis; foliis longe petiolatis cordatis ovato-rotundatis 
 acuminatis integris repando-sinuatis, subtus strigoso-hirtellis, supra peene 
 glabris, majoribus cum petiolo 24-30 cm. longis; panicula terminali corym- 
 bosa; calycibus 8 mm. longis glabris, fructiferis non auctis, lobis 5 mm. 
 longis, lanceolatis; corollis “ corallinis,” (H. O. F.) glabris, tubo 25 mm. 
 longo; staminibus longe exsertis; drupa globosa 4-sulcata tenuiter succosa, 
 pyrenibus 4 per paria coherentibus. This isa well-marked species, with its 
 large deeply cordate leaves, the long-tubed corolla, and calyx not enlarged 
 in fruit. 3604, 7; 3000 ft.; April. 
 
 Clerodendron inerme, Gerén. 
 
 longiflorum, Decne. 
 
 Callicarpa cana, L. (R. Brown, Coupang; C. sp. in list, “ Cadia Bousson.”) 
 pedunculata, R. Br. 3465, ] 
 sumatrana, Miq.? 3601, 4, 
 
 Premna timoriana, Decne. 
 
 corymbosa, Fottl. 
 
 sp. 3611, 3638, 3892, 4088; tree; fruit becoming black, 4, 
 Tectona grandis, Linn. f. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang, “ Jdatti.”) 
 Lippia nodiflora, Rich. (KR. Brown’s list, Coupang.) 
 
 Labiate. 
 
 Ocimum Basilicum, Z. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 
 sanctum, [. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 
 Moschosma polystachyum, Benth. 
 
 Plectranthus parviflorus, Willd. (P. australis, R. Br.). 3888, between 10-]1. 
 
 Coleus grandifolius, Benth. 
 
 scutellarioides, Benth. (R. Brown, Coupang, ‘“ Bounga tunta.”) 
 secundiflorus, Benth. 
 
 Hyptis brevipes, Pott. 3563. 
 
 Calamintha moluccana, Mig. 
 
 Scutellaria heteropoda, Mig. 3429. Leaves spread out on surface of ground, 
 flowers deep cobalt blue. On ridges and crevices exposed to sun on red 
 clayey soil; ] 33533, 6, 
 
 Anisomeles candicans, Benth. 
 
 ovata, R. Br. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 salviifolia, R. Br. 
 
 Leucas procumbens, Desf. 
 
 De ee Sm. (Gaudichaud; R. Brown, Coupang, “ Kappa 
 ae 
 javanica, Benth. (2? chinensis, Span., Timor). 
 
IN: TIMOR. 519 
 
 Teucrium viscidum, Bl. (Java.) 
 B. densiflora, Mig, (Timor.) 
 Cymaria acuminata, Decne. 
 
 APETAL, by W. Fawcett, B. Sc., F.L.S. 
 Nyctaginex. 
 Mirabilis Jalapa, Z. (R. Brown’s list, ‘‘ Bounga mattari.”) 
 Boerhaavia repanda, W. (R. Brown, Coupang. This may be the species 
 denoted in his list, as B. tetrandra, “ Lei lidi. ’) 
 diffusa, D. 4033, 9. 
 a. obtusiloba, Chois. 
 B. acutifolia, Chois. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 yy. pubescens, Chois. (B. glutinosa, Vahl.) 
 Pisonia excelsa, Bl. 
 
 Amarantacex. 
 Deeringia baccata, Mog. (D. celosioides, R. Br.) 3556, 7, 4012, 1, 
 Celosia cristata, Mog. 
 argentea, L. 
 Amarantus ‘spinosus, L. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang. ‘ Wajang.’’) 3455, 
 3466, 3930. 
 mangostanus, D. 
 oleraceus, L. 
 polygamus, Mig. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang. A. sp., “Sayal 
 Badjang.”’) 
 Ptilotus corymbosus, R. Br. Timor? 
 Pupalia lappacea, Mog. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang, “ Bounga Makriti” 
 and “ Susoro.”) 3775; 9, 
 atropurpurea, Mog. 
 B. pallida, Mog. 
 Afrua sanguinolenta, Bl. 
 timorensis, Moq. 
 Achyranthes tomentella, Zipp. 
 aspera, L. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang, “ Susoro” and “ Kakai.”) 
 Alternanthera nodiflora, R. Br. 
 Gomphrena globosa, L. 
 
 Chenopodiacee. 
 Arthrocnemum fruticosum, Mog. 
 indicum, Mog. 
 Salsola australis, R. Br. 
 brachypteris, Mog. 
 
 Polygonacez. 
 Polygonum barbatum, L. 3572, §; also with 3532. 
 chinense, Dy 3532, between 5 and 6, Turksain river, 3000 ft. 
 flaccidum, Roxb. 
 Rumex nepalensis, Spr., var. 3539. 
 
 Aristolochiacex. 
 Aristolochia timorensis, Decne. 
 
 Piperacee. 
 Piper subpeltatum, Willd. 3904, 3657, 7, The natives eat the leaves 
 instead of the ordinary siré, 
 
 Betle, L. 
 officinarum, C. DC. 
 arborescens, Roxb. 3698; 7%, 
 arcuatum, Bl., with 3854; 10 b. 
 
 Peperomia tomentosa, A. Dietr. 3755; in clefts of rocks, 8 
 
 tele 
 
516 
 
 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Laurinee. 
 
 Litsea timoriana, Span. (Tetranthera discolor, Bl.) 
 
 sebifera, Pers, (Tetranthera laurifolia, Jacq.) 
 e. platyphylla, Bl., 2424, y, 1; 3636, 3891, 4074, 9, large tree, 7, 
 (Cylicodaphne) diversifolia, Bl. 3605, 3605 a, 3673, 4035, '7; 3845, 
 3853, 10 b. 
 
 Illigera dubia, Span. 
 Cassytha pubescens, R. Br. 
 Cinnamomum? 3655, 7, 
 
 Thymeleacee. 
 
 PIMELEA BREVITUBA, Fawe. (nov. sp.),—Herbacea erecta, annua (?), glabra, 
 
 semipedalis; foliis subspathulatis oppositis alternisve ; involucris gamo- 
 phyllis turbinatis 4-5 mm. latis, lobis 4 ovalibus obtusis 6-10 mm. longis, 
 tubo 2-4 mm. longo; floribus hermaphroditis albis; pedicellis brevibus 
 compressis ad medium tubum affixis ; perianthiis involucri lobo brevioribus 
 aut longioribus, tubo 6-7 mm. longo, angusto, post -anthesin supra 
 ovarium circumscisso, lobis obtusis 14-2 mm. longis; staminibus 1} mm. 
 longis, connectivo angusto; exocarpio membranaceo; seminis superficie 
 nigra reticulata, albumine parco ; embryonis cotyledonibus ovalibus, 1 m. 
 longis. 
 
 This species differs from its nearest allies in the involucre as well as, 
 in other respects, e.g., from P. cornucopix, Vahl. and P. punicea, R. Br. | 
 in the short peduncle and general habit ; from P. concreta, F. Muell, in the 
 filaments ; and from P. sanguinea, F. Muell, in the perianth. It is the only 
 one at present described as occurring beyond the limits of Australia and 
 New Zealand. There is a small specimen in the Br. Mus. Herb., collected 
 on the island of Savu, near Timor, by Banks and Solander, which is 
 very like this species in habit, but differs in the involucre, which is more 
 like that of P. punicea, R. Br. 3828; flowers white; in grass. 10 b. 
 
 Wikstroemia Spanoghii, Decne. 
 Drymispermum laurifolium, Decne. 4050, 9, 
 
 Eleagnaceex. 
 
 Eleagnus ferruginea, Rich.? 3570; flowers dirty white dotted with rusty 
 
 red, 6, 
 
 Loranthacee. 
 
 Viscum orientale, W. 
 
 articulatum, Burm., v. timoriense, DC. 
 
 Loranthus longiflorus, Desr. 3844, flowers scarlet. 10 b. 
 
 obovatus, BIl., var. minor (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 
 indicus, Desr. 
 
 triflorus, Span. 
 
 pendulus, Sieb. 3543; parasitic on 3544; purple calyx, purple 
 anther-tipsin bud; 6, 
 
 Euphorbiaceex. 
 
 Daphniphyllum Zollingeri, Muell. Arg.? 3807, 3809, 3882, tree, 10 b. 
 Dodecastemon Teysmanni, 8. timorensis, Mig. 
 
 Bridelia ovata, Decne. 
 
 Andrachne fruticosa, Decne. 
 Phyllanthus Casticum, Muwell. Arg. var. 3642, small tree, 7; var. fasci- 
 
 ’ 
 culatus. 
 
 reticulatus, Poir. 
 B. glaber, Muell. Arg. 
 
 maderauspatensis, LD. 
 
 Niruri, L. “ Taou.’ (R. Brown’s list, Coupang.) 
 
 Urinaria, L. 3936. 
 
 distichus, Muell. Arg. ‘‘Sala melee.” (R. Brown’s list, Cou- 
 pang.) 
 
 nodiflora, Muell. Arg. 
 
IN GLIM OR: 217 
 
 
 
 Phyllanthus obliquus, Muell. Arg. 
 spp. 3802, 3834. 
 Breynia cernua, Muell. Arg. 
 oblongifolia, Muell. Arg. (A. Cunningham, 317.) 
 sp. 3692. 
 
 Croton caudatus; a. denticulatus, Muell. Arg. 
 
 Codizum moluccanum, Decne. 
 
 Claoxylon iridicum, Hassk. 
 
 Cephalocroton discolor ; 8. virens, Muell. Arg. 
 
 Gelonium glomerulatum, Hass/. 
 
 Mallotus moluccanus, DC. 3745, 8, (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 ricinoides, Muell. Arg. 3658; young foliage, lake-scarlet, 7, 
 repandus, var. scabrifolius, Muell. Arg. 
 scandens, Muell. Arg. (Spanoghe, Coupang.) 
 Philippinensis, Muell. Arg. 3766, 9, 
 lilizefolius, Muell. Arg. CR. Brown, Coupang.) 
 muricatus, Muell. Arg. 
 
 Macaranga Tanarius, Muell. Arg. 
 
 Acalypha integrifolia, W. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang. A. sp. “ Tataka.”) 
 
 brachystachya. Hornem. 3574, 6. 
 
 Alchornea javensis, Muell. Arg. 
 
 Cleidion javanicum, Bl. 
 
 Exccecaria Agallocha, L. 
 
 Antidesma paniculatum, Bl. 
 
 Stillingia sebifera, Michx. 3650, 7, 
 
 Euphorbia levis, Poir. 
 
 serrulata, Reinw. 
 neriifolia, Z. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang, “ Laous.”) 
 congenera, Dl. 
 thymifolia, Burm. 
 Ricinus communis, LZ. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang, “ Dammar Eude.’’) 
 Jatropha Curcas. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang, “ Dammar.” ) 
 
 Urticacex. 
 
 Sponia timorensis, Decne. 3720; §, 
 
 amboinensis, Decne. 3938, 3935, 9 ; 3728, 8, 
 Celtis timorensis, Span. 
 Fleurya cordata, Gaudich. 
 
 interrupta, Gaudich. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 
 Laportea peltata, Gaudich. 
 Urera acuminata, Gaudich. (Mauritius.) 
 Girardinia zeylanica, Decne. 
 Pilea lucens, Wedd. 
 Procris pedunculata, Wedd. 
 Fatoua pilosa, Gaud. 3671,'7, (CR. Brown, Coupang.) 
 
 lanceolata, Decne. 
 Pouzolzia levigata, Gawd. Mauritius; Timor, fide Decaisne, 
 
 indica, L. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Pipturus argenteus, Wedd. 3742, 8, 
 incanus, Wedd. 3686, 4078, 7, 
 
 Phyllochlamys spinosa, Hd. Bur. 
 Malaisia tortuosa, Blanco. 
 Ficus indica, L. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang, “Tijka” ; Gaud., “ Goudas.”) 
 
 religiosa, L. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang; Gaudichaud, “ Goudas.” 
 
 - repens, Willd. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang.)* 
 Artocarpus integrifolia, Bl. 3777, 4024, 9, 
 incisa, L. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang.) 
 
 * The species of Ficus collected by Mr. Forbes will be noticed by Dr. G. 
 King, of the Botanical Gardens, Calcutta, in his forthcoming illustrated Mono- 
 graph on the group. 
 
518 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Cudrania javanensis, Tréc. 3731; 8, 
 
 Boehmeria platyphylla, Don, var. 3911. 
 
 Debregeasia longifolia, Wedd. 3635; fruit bright orange, 7; 3778. 
 Casuarinex. 
 
 Casuarina montana, Mig. 3514, ¢, slopes of valley of Waimatang Kaimauk, 
 
 3200 ft., 3746, 8; 3836,10 a; 9,1 
 
 Conifere. 
 
 Dacrydium sp. 3855, 10 b. 
 
 MOoNOCOTYLEDONES, by H. N. Riprey, M.A., F.L.S. 
 Hydrocharidex. 
 Ottelia alismoides, Rich. (Coupang, R. Brown.) 
 
 Orchidex. 
 
 OBERONIA GLANDULIFERA, Fidl. (sp. nov.).—Acaulis, foliis ensiformibus equi- 
 tantibus acutis 4-uncialibus; scapo gracili longo multifioro; floribus 
 parvis subverticillatis ; bracteis lanceolatis acutis serratis ; sepalibus ovatis 
 obtusis integris, petalis subsimilibus angustioribus; labello brevi lato 
 carnosulo obscure 5-lobo, lobis lateralibus erectis columnam amplecten- 
 tibus, lobo medio 3-lobo, lateralibus rotundatis obtusis, medio obscuro 
 parvo obtuso, margine Jabelli in sinubus inter lobos laterales et lobum 
 medium glanduloso; 3591, 7; flowers greenish-yellow. 
 
 Liparis disticha, Lindl. 
 
 Livaris avurita, Ridl. (sp. nov.), 3714, 7—“ Flowers orange and light red.” 
 Epiphyta, pseudobulbis parvis ovatis viridibus; foliis linearibus lanceolatis 
 subacutis petiolatis; caulibus erectis gracilibus; bracteis dissitis ovatis 
 acutis; floribus copiosis parvis; sepalibus linearibus lanceolatis; petalis 
 linearibus ; labello oblongo abrupte deflexo, costis duabus ad basin crassis, 
 lobis lateralibus brevibus erectis cornutis, lobo medio oblongo, trilobo, 
 lateralibus linearibus convolutis, intermedio breviore obtuso; columna 
 brevi rectiuscula crassa, alis brevibus duabus; capsula pedicellata globosa. 
 
 Dendrobium affine, Dec. 
 
 macrophyllum (Veitchianum.) 3761, 9, 
 grandiflorum. JLdl. 3820,10 b. 
 calophyllum, Rchb. fil. 
 
 Spathoglottis plicata, Bl. 3504; sides of stream Maukuda, near station, 6; 
 3923, near 10 ba. 
 
 Oyrtopera bicolor. (Eulophia bicolor, Bl.) 
 
 Sarcanthus timoriensis, Decne. 
 
 (Erides timorianum, Mig. 
 
 Vanda tricolor, Lindl.; 3794, 9, 
 
 Tropidia curculigoides, Bl. Fowers white; 3795, 9, 
 
 Microtis parviflora, R. Br. 3563, 6, This species, of a typically Australian 
 genus, occurs also in the Loyalty Islands, the Isle of Pines, New Caledonia 
 and New Zealand. 
 
 Spiranthes australis, R. Br. 3824, 3825, 3862,10 b. 
 
 CALADENIA JAVANICA, Benn. MS. in Herb. Brit. Mus.; 3516 [errore 3506] 6, 
 “ Among grass on rocky slope, 8,”—Terrestris, caule erecto hispido ; folio 
 singulo lineari; bracteis brevibus ovatis lanceolatis acutis hispidis ; 
 floribus 2 parvis; pedicellis quam bractea brevioribus; sepalis oblongis 
 lanceolatis brevibus acutis hispidis; petalis subeequalibus; labello lato 
 costato purpureo, pustulis flavis ornato; columna curva purpureo-ornata, 
 anthera apiculata. Allied to C. carnea, R. Br. 
 
 THELYMITRA Forsest, idl. (sp. nov.).—Terrestis, caule gracili, 5-unciali ; 
 folio singulo anguste lineari glabra 3-unciali; vaginis caulinis 2; flore 
 singulo; bractea ovario ferme zquante lanceolata acuta; sepalis lanceo- 
 latis linearibus acutis ; petalis latioribus lanceolatis ; columna brevi curva 
 crassiuscula ciliata; labello late lanceolato punctato obtuso. Quite 
 distinct from T. javanica, Bl., and most nearly approaching the T. rubra of 
 Australia. 3509, 3; flowers purple. Bare banks. | 
 
IN TIMOR. 519 
 
 
 
 Diuris Fryana, Ridl. (sp. nov.), 3508; “flowers yellow”; near 2,—Herba 
 terrestris; tuberibus duobus ovatis; caule erecto gracili }-1-pedali; foliis 
 anguste linearibus acuminatis longis; floribus paucis 1-2 pedicellatis ; 
 pedicello longiusculo; bractea lanceolata longe acuminata; sepalo postico 
 ovato-obtuso, basi paullo angustato; lateralibus linearibus obtusis 
 porrectis parallelis ; petalis ovatis obtusis basi angustatis: labello elongato 
 3-lobo, lobis lateralibus obtusis crenulatis venosis erectis, medio longo 
 obscure 3-lobo costis tribus, duabus lateralibus ad basin, una media 
 ad apicem; marginibus labelli defiexis; columna brevi, alis majusculis, 
 basi dilatata, non denticulata. This record extends the range of the genus 
 Diuris, hitherto only known from Australia, to the Malayan region. 
 
 [I have taken the liberty of asking Mr. Ridley to name this interesting 
 species in honour of the Rt. Hon. Lord Justice Fry, who during my travels 
 in the East, expressed great interest in my observations, and who has 
 given much attention to the Orchides and to the question of their 
 fertilisation. H. O. F.] 
 
 HABENARIA (PERISTYLUS) TIMORENSIS, Ridl. (sp. nov.).—Terrestris, tubere 
 oblongo, foliis basalibus duobus ovatis oblongis ; vaginis 4-lanceolatis longe 
 acuminatis; scapo subgracili vix pedale ; racemo laxiusculo ; floribus circiter 
 11 parvis; bracteis lanceolatis acuminatis; sepalo postico cucullato ovato 
 acuminato, lateralibus lanceolatis acutis; petalibus subsimilibus angus- 
 tioribus ; labello obcuneato, breviter 3-lobo, basippetalis sepalisque adnatis, 
 callo carnoso semicireulari, lobis lateralibus latis, medio brevi obtuso, 
 caleare scrotiformi, apiculato columna brevissima; anthera lata, loculis 
 parallelis, polliniis grosse granulosis, caudiculis brevibus ; stigmate breviter 
 bilobo. Its affinity is with H. spiralis, Wight. 3520, 6, Flowers yellow- 
 ish-green. 
 
 Habenaria Susanne, Benth. 3437,1; very sweet nectar at tip of the nectary ; 
 
 nectaries 51-in. in average length. Fertilised by a species of 
 Ophiodes and Remigia virbia moths. 
 
 grandis, Benth. 3442, 1, Nectaries with sweet nectar; the 
 anthers burst of themselves and pollen falls out as minute 
 particles. 
 
 sp. aff. angustata, Bl. 
 
 Herminium angustifolium, Benth. In rocky spots, by side of a stream. 
 3561, 6; 3521, 6; 3515, 6; 3823, 10 b. 
 
 Scitaminex. 
 Globba strobilifera, Zoll. Mor. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Hedychium coronarium, Koen. 3712, a, and. 4113, 7, 
 Curcuma (prob. sp. nov.). 3446, 1, 
 Costus speciosus, [. 3734, 8, 
 Canna indica, LZ. 3750 and 4009, 8, (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Musa paradisiaca, LD. 
 
 Hypoxidex. 
 Hypoxis aurea, Lour. (H. Franquevillei, Miq.). 
 hygrometrica, var. pratensis, R. Br. 3564, 6, Hitherto only known 
 from Australia. 
 Amaryllide. 
 Crinum asiaticum, Roxb. 
 
 Dioscoreacez. 
 Dioscorea globosa, Roub. 3849,10 a. 
 pentaphylla, Lam. 6, 3689,7; 3900, 10 a. 2, 4080, 8. (R. Brown, 
 Coupang.) 
 Trichodesma zeylanica, R. Br. var. 
 
 Taccaceex. 
 
 Tacca palmata, Bl. 3765, 9, : 
 pinnatifida, Forst. 4017, 9; 3735, 8; nom ind. “ Telo.” 
 
520 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Liliacex. 
 Smilax timorensis, Bl. 3741, 8, The two pairs of umbels of flowers together 
 serve clearly to distinguish it from 8S. latifolia. 
 anceps, Willd.—This Mascarine plant was said by Decaisne to have 
 been collected in Timor by Riedlé and Guichenot. De Candolle 
 says that the specimens on which Decaisne founded his species are 
 without flowers and very doubtful. It seems more probable they 
 belong to S. témorensis, and hardly likely that a plant known only 
 from the Mascarine Islands and Madagascar should be found also 
 in Timor. 
 
 EUSTREPHUS TIMORENSIS, Ridl. (sp. nov.)—Frutex scandens, caulibus tenui- 
 bus; foliis glabris alternis lucidis striolatis sexcostatis lanceolatis minute 
 apiculatis brevi-petiolatis; petiolis tortis; bracteis deciduis parvis vagin- 
 antibus ovatis purpurascentibus ; inflorescentia composita terminali cymosa, 
 pedicellis florum tenuibus; bacca subglobosa nigra pericarpio tenui; 
 pulpa parva; seminibus 1-3 nigris levibus politis, oblongis subtriangulatis, 
 embryone in medio albuminis cornei parum curvo. This isa very interesting 
 plant, of which unfortunately we have not the flowers. The only other 
 species in the genus, H. Brownii, is a well-known Australian plant, with 
 pink flowers and orange berries. 3530, 6, 
 
 Laxmannia sessiliflora, Decne. Exclusively Australian genus. 
 
 Cordyline timoriensis, Bl. 
 
 Dracena timorensis, Kth. (D. reflexa, Decaisne.) 
 
 Asparagus racemosus W. (Asparagopsis Decaisnei, Kth.) “ Samodok nehau,” 
 native name. 3800, 9, 
 
 Gloriosa superba, L. 3435, 1; 3827, 10 a, 3430, 1, 
 
 Pontederiacex. 
 Monochoria vaginalis, Decne. 
 
 Commelinaceex. 
 Aneilema nudiflorum, R. Br. 3548, 6; 3789, 9. 
 Cyanotis cristata, R. and 8. 3724, 8. 
 
 Palme. 
 Metroxylon Rumphii, Mart. 
 Areca catechu, Roxb. 
 Cocos nucifera, LD. 
 
 Pandanee. 
 Freycinetia angustifolia, Bl. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 scandens, Gaud. 38577, 6. 
 Pandanus sp. 
 Aroidex. 
 Typhonium divaricatum, Decne. 
 sp. fruit. (R. Brown, Coupang.). 
 Arisema sp., in fruit only. 3633, 7, 
 Remusatia vivipara, Schott. 3788, 9; on calcareous rocks. 
 Rhaphidophora pertusa, Schott. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Caladium esculentum, Schott. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Amorphophallus campanulatus, Decne. 
 
 Cyperacex. 
 Cyperus hyalinus, Vahl. (R. Brown, Coupang.) A very rare plant, the 
 only other known locality being in Madras. 
 compressus, Z. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 globosus, All. 
 longifolius, Poir. 
 radiatus, Vahl. 
 scoparius, Poir.; an African and Mascarene plant. 
 .venustus, R. Br. 
 pennatus, Lam. 
 
IN TIMOR. o21 
 
 Cyperus difformis, LD. 
 auricomus, Sieb. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 rotundus, L. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 cuspidatus, Vahl. 3598. 7, 
 ferax, Rich. 
 diffusus, Vahl. Kunstler. 
 umbellatus, Benth. 3540, 6, 
 Kyllinga brevifolia, Roth. (Coupang, Home.) 34388, 6, 
 monocephala, Roth. 
 Heleocharis capitata, R. Br. 
 Scirpus mucronatus, L. 
 supinus, L. (S. luzonensis, Presl; 8. timorensis, Kth.) 
 Fimbristylis miliacea, Vahl. 
 ferruginea, Vahl. 
 complanata, Link. 
 communis, Kth. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 var. gracillima, n. var. 
 gracillima; foliis angustissimis glaucis; culmis subpedalibus 
 tenuibus debilibus ; spiculis parvis szepius congestis pallidis, 
 vaginis glabriusculis. 3539, 6, 
 glomerata, Nees. 
 _barbata, Nees. 
 Fuirena glomerata, Vahl. 
 Scleria scrobiculata, Nees. 
 purpurascens, Steudel. 
 
 Graminex. 
 
 Paspalum scrobiculatum, LZ. 3472,1, (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 orbiculare, Forst. 3462, 1, 
 Eriochloa polystachya, H. B. K. (KR. Brown, Coupaug.) 
 Isachne minutula, Kth. 
 patens. #. Br. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Panicum prostratum, Lam., var. setigerum. 
 multinode, Lam. 
 fluitans, Retz. 
 colonum, DZ. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 accrescens, 7’rin. 
 sanguinale, Z. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 javanicum, Poir. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 carinatum, Presl. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 propinquun, R. Br. 
 helopus, Trin. 
 cimicinum, Retz. (R. Brown, Coupang). 
 Setaria verticillata, Beauv. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 glauca, Beauv. (R. Brown, Coupang.) On red clay ; 3427, 3428, 1; 
 4081, 8, I cannot distinguish these plants from Panicum rubi- 
 ginosum of Steudel. 
 Oplismenus hirtellus, Beawv. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 compositus, Beauv. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Spinifex squarrosus, L. 
 longifolius, R. Br. 
 Coix lachryma-Jobi, L. . 
 Sclerachne punctata, R. Br. (R. Brown, Coupang; only once collected 
 previously in Java by Horsfield.) 
 Zea mays, L. (Cult.; R. Brown.) 
 Saccharum stenophyllum, Buse. 
 cegyptiacum, Rf. Br. (R. Brown, Coupang). 
 officinale, L. (R. Brown’s list, Coupang.) 
 Erianthus aureus, Nees. 
 Pogonatherum crinitum, Beauv. Coupang. 
 Rottboellia exaltata, D. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Manisuris granularis, Sw. 
 
O22 A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS 
 
 Thelepogon elegans, Roth. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Pollinia laxa, Nees. 
 Ischeemum rugosum, Miq. 
 muteium, LD. 
 Heteropogon contortus, All. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 insignia, Thw. 
 Chrysopogon aciculatus, Trin. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Andropogon parviflorus, Roxb. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 serratus, Retz. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Bladhii, Retz. 
 Leschenaultianum, Dee. 
 diversifiorus, Steud. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Apluda aristata, Roxb. 4107, 1, 
 Anthistiria frondosa, Rk. Br. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 ciliata. 3461, 1, 
 pilifera, Steud. 
 Sorghum timoriense, Buse. 4092, 1, 
 sp.? (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Aristida, sp. near cumingiana. 3463, J, 
 Sporobolus diandrus, &. Br. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Trisetum antarcticum, var. densum. Exactly the form collected by Kirk, 
 at Port Nicholson, North Island, New Zealand. 
 Cenchrus echinatus, L. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Chloris truncata, R. Br. 
 radiata, Sw. 
 incompleta, Roth. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 barbata, Sw. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 sp. aff. barbata. 
 Eleusine indica, Sw. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 cegyptiaca, Gaertn. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Cynodon dactylon, L. 
 Eragrostis Cumingii, Steud. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 rubens, Lam. 
 plumosa, Retz. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 hapalantha, Trin. 
 Keenigii, Nees. 
 flexuosa, Roxb. 
 multiflora, Roxb. 
 amabilis, ZL. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 megastachya, Nees. 
 Centotheca lappacea, Beauv. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 Lepturus repens, Rk. Br. (R. Brown, Coupang.) 
 
 Fixices, by W. Carruruers, F.R.S., F.L.S. 
 
 Gleichenia dichotoma, Willd. 3481, ], 
 
 Hymenophyllum dilatatum, Sw. 3866, 10 b. 
 
 Trichomanes saxifragoides, Pr. 3946, 6, 
 
 rigidum, Sw. 3475, J, 
 
 Lindsea ensifolia, Sw. 3479, 1, 
 
 Adiantum lunulatum, Burm. 3434, 1; 3560, 6; 3615, 7 ; 3753, 8. 
 rhizophorum, Sw. 3527, 6; 3941, 6 
 hispidulum, Sw. 3476, 1; 3593, 7 
 
 Cheilanthes farinosa, Kaulf. 3526, 4071, 6, 
 
 tenuifolia, Sw. 3445, 1, 
 
 Onychium lucidum, Spreng. 3562, 6, 
 
 Pellea geraniifolia, Fee. 3716, near 8; 4044, 7, 
 
 paradoxa, Hook. 3918,10 b. 
 Pieris longifolia, Z. 3690, 7, 
 
 venusta, Kze. 4049, 7, 
 
 crenata, Sw. 3717, near 8, 
 
IN TIMOR. 523 
 
 Pteris pyrophylla, Bl. 4097, 1, 
 nemoralis, Willd. 3469, 1, 
 quadriaurita, Retz. 3583, 6; 3694, '7; 3948, 7; 4005, 1, 
 
 Doodia dives, Kze. 3701, 7; 3927. 
 Asplenium lunulatum, Sw. 3867,10 b, 
 
 faleatum, Lam. 3692, 7, 
 
 caudatum, Forst. 4063, 10 b. 
 
 diaphanum, Bl. 3864, 10 b. 
 
 stereophyllum, Kze. 3596, 7, 
 
 japonicum, Thunb. 3607, 7, 
 Aspidium aculeatum, Sw. 3926, 3949, 7, 
 
 aristatum, Sw. 3606, 7, 
 Nephrodium unitum, &. Br. 3581, 6, 
 
 pteroides, J. Sm. 4095, IJ, 
 
 Nephrolepis acuta, Presl. 3689, 7, 
 Oleandra neriiformis, Cav. 3482,], 3693; on rocks, 7, 
 Polypodium subauriculatum, Bl. 3565, 3568, 6, 
 Notholena hirsuta, Desv. 3688; in crevices of rocks, 7; 3937, 8, 
 Gymnogramme involuta, Don. 3594, 7, 
 Vittaria elongata, Sw. (3642) 3632, 7; 3920, 4094, 10 b. 
 Acrostichum spicatum, Linn. 3594, 7; 3902, 3944, 10 b, 
 “ Ophioglossum sp.” H. O. F., see p. 447. 
 

 
INDEX. 
 
 eh ee 
 
 Accipiter rubricollis, 393 
 
 Action of crabs on coral mud flats, 25 
 
 Agaristidz, members of, mimicked by 
 other Lepidoptera, 173 
 
 Agassiz, Prof., on coral reefs. 36, 40; 
 on Tortuga and Florida Reefs, 37 
 
 Agrostemma montanum, 78 
 
 Albino, Senhor, his kindness, 416 
 
 Aléfuros of Buru, 392, 394 
 
 Alexander the Great, 178, 194; grave 
 of, 260 
 
 Amadina insularis, 422 
 
 Ambil-anak, a form of marriage in the 
 Lampongs, 151; in Passumah Lands, 
 196 
 
 Amblypodia ewmolpus, 137 
 
 Amboina, arrival in, 288; first im- 
 pressions of, 288; visit interior of, 
 289 ; people of, 290; churches in, 
 290 ; salubrity of, 298; kindness of 
 the Captain of the Chinese in, 288, 
 297; Resident of, 288 
 
 Amesia juvenis, mimicking in, 139 
 
 Amherstia nobilis, 9 
 
 Amnosia decora, 172; habits of, 173 
 
 Amnosia eudamia, new species, 275 
 
 Amorphophallus titanum, 10,175; great 
 tubers of, 227 
 
 Anacropora forbesi, new genus and 
 species of corals from Keeling 
 
 _ Islands, 44 
 
 Anaphalis javanica, 210; saxatilis, 210 
 
 Anak Dalom, romance of, 158 
 
 Anchors, three, dredged up at Menado, 
 486; list of organisms adhering to 
 them, 496 
 
 Anjer, visit to, in 1878, 11; view of 
 Sunda Straits from, 11; stay at, 161; 
 last look of, 488 
 
 Anous stolidus, 32 
 
 Antelope, Sumatran, 172 
 
 Antennarii, 23 
 
 Anthracocerus convexus, 252 
 
 Anthers, two forms of, in Melastoma, 
 229 
 
 Anthropomorphous apes, resemblance 
 of the Kubus to the, 243 
 
 Anthus medius, 459 
 
 Ants inhabiting Myrmecodia and Hy- 
 nophytum, 79; at species of Rafflesi- 
 acee, 206; milking winged Hemip- 
 tera, 251 
 
 Appias nero, note on coloration of sexes 
 of, 130 
 
 Apis dorsata, habits of, 478 
 
 Aprosmictus buruensis, 393 
 
 Arabida Hills, 1 
 
 Arachis hypogea, 392 
 
 Arborophila personata, 172 
 
 Argus pheasants, 130; habits of, 131 
 
 Arms of Timorese, 463 
 
 Aru, touch at, 300 
 
 Art, unknown to the Kubus, 236; 
 among Timor-laut islanders, 317 
 
 Artaxa simulans, mimicry of, 173 
 
 Artistic taste among Solorese, 285 
 
 Artocarpus incisa, 334, 438 
 
 Arundina speciosa, fertilisation of, 88, 
 91-94, 96 
 
 Asparagus racemosus, 471 
 
 Astictopterus armatus, 215 
 
 Attack on our house at Fatunaba, 460 
 
 Babirusa in Buru, 407; native account 
 of its habits, 407 
 
 Badui, curious race of people in Java, 
 102, 103 
 
 Baguala, Bay of, 290 
 
 Balai, the, a Lampong institution, 140; 
 description of, 141; equivalent of in 
 Buru, 394 
 
 Balik sumpa, superstitions attaching to 
 this tree, 228 
 
 Ball, foot-, in the Lampongs, 149 
 
 Baluai of Amboina, 293 
 
 Bauhinia, great beauty of, 252 
 
 Bantam, Sultan of, 144; influence of, 
 in the Lampongs, 144; roads in, 52; 
 SERA, 52 ; rice cultivation in, 
 
 Banteng, in Java, 116 
 
 Banda, birds in, 287; calls at, 286 
 
 Bassia sp., corollas of, 233 
 
 Bastian, Prof., on Wakwlo-Buruese, 402 
 
526 
 
 Batavia, description of, 5,7; Chinese 
 in, 7; Arabs in, 7 
 
 Batrachians in Timor-laut, 337 
 
 Bats in West Java, 71 
 
 Batu-Brah, houses in the village of, 167 
 
 Batu-Pantjeh, village of, 217; coral 
 blocks near, 217 ; treatment received 
 in, 217; houses in, 217; marriages 
 in, 218; games in, 219 
 
 Beads, Timor, 285 
 
 Bececari, Dr., 206 
 
 Beddome, Colonel, on forest devasta- 
 tion, 62 
 
 Belenois, coloration of sexes of, 180 
 
 Bell-birds, their plumage, 58 
 
 Beneawang, stay at, 161 
 
 Béo, or Javanese grackle, 72 
 
 Bibicucu, stay at, 449 ; view from, 453; 
 houses in, 454 
 
 Bigin Telok, stay at village of, 253 
 
 Bird life on the Rupit river, 238 
 
 Birds, near Dilly, 421, 422; near Sauo 
 in Timor, 434; of Burn, list of, 409; 
 at sea, 4,5; of Keeling Island, list 
 of, 44; of Sumatra, list of, 268; of 
 Timor-laut, list of, 355; at Wakolo 
 Lake, 406 
 
 Bird’s excreta mimicked by spider, 63 
 
 Birguslatro, habits of, 27 
 
 births, illegitimate, in Passumah, 197 ; 
 in Kisam, 182 
 
 Blacksmiths, native, in Java, 66 
 
 Blood-money, law as to, 145 
 
 Blood brotherhood, ceremony of, in 
 Timor, 452 
 
 Bock, Carl, collected birds in Suma- 
 tra, 268 
 
 Boea treubii, 251; description of, 279 
 
 Bombus senex, 208; fertilising Melas- 
 toma, 228 
 
 Bonnier, M., observations on Sambucus, 
 226 
 
 Bos banteng in Java, 116 
 
 Botia micranthus, 177 
 
 Botys deductalis, 172 
 
 Boulenger, Mr., on reptiles and batra- 
 chians from Timor-laut, 368 
 
 Brachypteryx atratus, 209 
 
 Bracken ferns, 397 
 
 Bread-fruit trees at Tengah-tengah, 292 
 
 Britten, Mr. J., on Timor plants, 499 
 
 Brocken, Spectre of the, 213 
 
 Brown’s, R., plants from Timor, 497 
 
 Brugmansia lowit, 154 
 
 Brugmansia, new species of, 206 
 
 Bryophyllum calycinum, notes on leaves 
 of, 82; 
 
 Bubulcus coromandus, 177 
 Buceros, spp., 130; galeatus, 
 anatomy of its casque, 153 
 
 Buchnera, new species of, 430 
 
 152% 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Buffalo-birds, 55 
 
 Buffaloes in Timor-laut, 312, 336 
 
 Buitenzorg, beauty of, 8; its surround- 
 ing scenery, 9 ; its botanical garden, 9 
 
 Bumi-padang, halt at, 166 
 
 Burck, Dr., observations of, on pollen of 
 Melastoma, 229; on Myrmecodia and 
 Hydnophytum, 80 
 
 Burial rites in Kisam, 182 ; in Timor, 435, 
 405; and places in Timor-laut, 322; 
 in Buru, 404, 405; in Passumah, 199 
 
 Burlings, the, 1 
 
 Buru, Aléfurus of, 392; dispersion of 
 Polynesian races from, 392; birds in, 
 393, 394; villages in, 394; houses 
 in, 395; marriage rites in, 404; 
 death and burial rites in, 404, 405; 
 superstitions in, 405 
 
 Butler, Mr. A. G., on Lepidoptera from 
 Timor-laut, 375, from Sumatra, 276 
 
 Butorides javanica, 177 
 
 Butterflies collected in Timor-laut, 375 
 
 Buxton, Mr. E. C., collected birds in 
 Sumatra, 268 
 
 Cacatua sulphurea, 421 
 
 Calanthe veratrifolia, fertilisation of, 
 84; falsely cleistogamous, 85 
 
 Calcareousrocks near Liguani river, 481 
 
 Callidryas, coloration of the sexes of, 130 
 
 Callidula javanica, 172 
 
 Calliplea visenda, 325 
 
 Calodraco jacquinti, 169 
 
 Caloperdix oculea, 226 
 
 Cambodia, 9 
 
 Cambridge, Rev. O. P., on a new genus 
 of spiders, 63, 119-121 
 
 Campanulacex in Timor, 430 
 
 Canals in Batavia, 5 
 
 Canthecoma cognata, 277 
 
 Capricornis sumatrensis, 172 
 
 Captain of the Chinese in Amboina, 
 kindness of, 288 
 
 Carpophaga concinna, 287 
 
 Carriage, a, in the village of Pengan- 
 donan, 184 
 
 Carruthers, Mr. W., F.R.S., on Timor 
 ferns, 522 
 
 Cattleyas, 10 
 
 Cethosia carolina, new species, 274 
 
 Oe grandiflora, fertilisation 
 or, 
 
 Cerbera lactarea, OC. odollam, food- 
 plants of Ornithopteree, 291 
 
 Pie Peak, 191; superstitions about, 
 
 Cervus hippelaphus, 31; equinus, 31 
 
 Cethosia lamarckii, 470 
 
 Ceyx cajeli, 393 
 
 Cheetodon in Keeling lagoon, 24 
 
 Chanapa sacerdos, 325 
 
INDEX, 
 
 527 
 
 
 
 Charaxes euryolus, 295 
 
 Charm in rice-fields, 170 
 
 Chase, the, in Buru, 396 
 
 Children’s games in Timor-laut, 321, 
 322; in Java, 68; in Sumatra, 219 
 
 Children, treatment of, in Timor-laut, 
 315, 316, 321; use of dolls by, in 
 Timor-laut, 321 
 
 Chrysoglossum sp., fertilisation of, 95 
 
 Church at Wai, imposing interior of, 
 294 
 
 Cinchona plantations in Java, 103 
 
 Cinchona ledgeriana, 108; succirubra, 
 109 
 
 Cinnyris hasselti, description of, 220 
 
 Cintra, 1 
 
 Cissa thalassina in Java, 115 
 
 Cladonia vulcanica, 114 
 
 ‘ Claik-sheaf’ of Scotland, 170 
 
 Classification, scientific, among the 
 Sundanese, 54 
 
 Cleistogamous fertilisation of coffee, 75 ; 
 of chrysoglossum, 95 
 
 Clinteria forbesi, new species, descrip- 
 tion of, 496 
 
 Clitorea ternatensis, 284 
 
 Cloth, native, in Buru, 404; water- 
 proofed by the natives, 404 
 
 Clothing of the Kubus, 235 
 
 Cloud-effects, 12 
 
 Coat-of-arms in Padjar-bulan, 180 
 
 Cock-fight in Sumatra, 188, 189 
 
 Cocoa-nut crab, 27; palms, 29 
 
 Cocos-Keeling Islands, start for, 11; 
 first impressions of, 12; object of 
 author’s visit to, 13; narrative of the, 
 colony in, 13; proclamations of, as 
 English territory, 16 
 
 Celops frithti, 71 
 
 Coffee-gardens at Kosala, Java, 70 
 
 Coffee, loss on from drought in Java, 75 
 
 Coiffures in Timor-laut, 307, 308 
 
 Coleoptera, from Timor laut, 370 
 
 Cold, effect-on the natives of, 158; on 
 the Dempo, 212 
 
 Coleoptera of Keeling Islands, 30 
 
 Coloration of Appias nero, 130 ; Catop- 
 silia, 180; Hebomoia glaucippe, 130; 
 of Ganoris, 130; of Belenois, of Hy- 
 polymnas, 134 
 
 Coloration, alluring, in a spider, 63 
 
 Coral reef formation, in the Keeling 
 Islands, 21, 36, 39 
 
 Corals collected on Keeling Islands, list 
 of, 44-47 
 
 Corals killed by exposure to sun, 22 
 
 Cordia subcordata, 26, 28; its seeds 
 buried by crabs, 26 
 
 Commelyna nudiflora, 334 
 
 Commersonia echinata, use of its bark, 
 396 
 
 Cosmoscarta juno, 277 
 
 Cross-fertilisation, contrivance for se- 
 curing, in Ourcuma, 247; in Melas- 
 toma, 229 
 
 Cranial characters of the natives of 
 Timor-laut, 340 
 
 Crater-growing plants,114 
 
 Crayracions, 23 
 
 Creation, account of the, in Passumah 
 Lands, 194 
 
 Crime, how punished in Timor, 473 
 
 Cringier gutturalis, 172 
 
 Crustacea from Timor-laut, 382 
 
 Crustacean action on coral mud-flats, 
 25, 26, 27 
 
 Culicicapa ceylonensis, 209 
 
 Cultivation unknown to Kubus, 236 
 
 Cunningham’s, Allan, plants from Ti- 
 mor, 497 
 
 Curcuma zerumbet, contrivance for cross- 
 fertilisation of, 247 
 
 Currents, sea, in the Indian Ocean, 28 
 
 Cuscus, how caught at Paso, 291; 
 eaten by pythons, 291 
 
 Cyclones in Keeling Islands, 17, 30 
 
 Cymbidium tricolor, fertilisation of, 83; 
 
 ee fertilisation of, 
 3 
 
 Cynthia juliana, curious habit of, 138 
 
 Cyphogastra splendens, 303 
 
 Cyrestis irmx, new species, 274 
 
 Cyrestis sp. found near Hoodjoong, 172 ; 
 pereander, 137 
 
 Cyrtostachys renda, a beautiful palm, 9 
 
 Dammar trade at Gunung Trang, 135, 
 136 
 
 Dampier, his account of Trassi, 61 ; his 
 nereee to, and hig plants from Timor, 
 
 Dana, Prof., on coral-reefs, 36 
 
 Dances in the Lampongs, 146, 149 
 
 Dangerous visit to Waitidal, 327 
 
 Darwin's, Mr. C., visits to Keeling 
 Islands, 15, 28; collection of plants 
 in Keeling Islands, 28, 42 
 
 Datura, 108 
 
 Death rites in Timor-laut, 322; in the 
 Passumah Lands, 199 ; in Buru, 404 
 
 Deformation of head in Timor-laut, 316 
 
 Demini, Colonel, 408 
 
 Demiegretta sacra, 33 
 
 Dempo volcano, plants of, 206, 207, 
 208, 210; birds on, 207, 210, 212: 
 cold on, 212 
 
 Dendrobium secundum, 208 ; phalenop- 
 sis, 335 ; antennatum, 335; chrysan- 
 thum, fertilisation of, 85, 95; eru- 
 menatum, fertilisation of, 84 
 
 Be US guttata, at Wakolo Lake, 
 
 06 
 
528 
 
 Denudation, effects of, 174 
 
 Detritus of rivers, 185 
 
 Dewa, curious petition to the, 230 
 
 Dialects of East Timor, 490 
 
 Difficulties with natives of Paso, 207 
 
 Digits, reduplication of, among Kubus, 
 241 
 
 Dilly, call at, 286; arrival at, 416; 
 effects of fever there, 415; look for a 
 site for a house near, 416; different 
 races in, 418; birds near, 421, 422; 
 the aspect of the town, 41; leave, 
 485; new Vaccinium near, 422 
 
 Diphyllodes respublica, 286 
 
 Diptera from Timor-laut, 380 
 
 Dipteris horsfieldt, 78, 158, 397 ; in cra- 
 ters, 114; distribution in Java, 114 
 
 Dipterocarpex, 24-7, 252 
 
 Dirge, death-, 223 — 
 
 Diopxa, Keeling Islands, 31; Dempo, 
 212 
 
 Disquieting insignia at Timor-laut, 303 
 
 Distant, Mr. W. L., descriptions of 
 Sumatran Rhynchota, 277 
 
 Ditmar, Prof., on composition of sea 
 water, 36 
 
 Diuris Fryana, 430 
 
 Djambi, wish to enter, 249; refused 
 entrance into, 250 
 
 Dogs kept by the Karangs, 100; by the 
 Kubus, 2386 
 
 Dolichos lablab, used as food, 438 
 
 Dolls used by children in Timor-luut, 
 321 
 
 Doves, pink-headed, 72 
 
 Dragon-fly mimicked by a butterfly, 139 
 
 Dress, royal, in Timor, 447; of Solorese, 
 285; of Timorese, 462; of natives 
 of Timor-laut, 312, 313; of Passu- 
 mahers, 195 
 
 Drosera lunata, 422 
 
 Drought in Java in 1878, loss from, 75 
 
 Drysdale, Mr., in Timor Cupang, 284 
 
 Duperry’s plants from Timor, 497 
 
 Durian trees, 240 ; fruit eaten by tigers 
 and elephants, 240 
 
 D’Urville’s plants from Timor, 498 
 
 Dwellings of Timor-laut islanders, in- 
 terior of, 318 
 
 Dyes among Timorese, 463 
 
 Earthquake, in Java, 63; in Keeling 
 Islandsin 1834, 23; in Keeling Islands 
 in 1876, 22; wave, Keeling Islands, 
 19; at the Kaba, 225 
 
 Earthenware objects from Kosala, 98, 99 
 
 Earthworms, great size of turrets of, 
 227 
 
 Eclectus intermedius, 393 
 
 Egeron, visit of SS., to Timor-laut, 301 
 
 Egeron Strait, 301 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Elephants in Sumatra, 165; fond of 
 Durian, 240 
 
 Eleusine coracana, 392 
 
 Englishmen, their repute in Sumatra, 
 204 
 
 Eos reticulata, 304 
 
 Epacridacex, new species of, 438. 
 
 Eria javensis, fertilisation of, 95; albi- 
 do-tomentosa, fertilisation of, 94 
 
 Erlura, camp. at, 428 
 
 Estrelda flavidiventris, 422 
 
 Euchirus longimanus, 291 
 
 Hudynamis ransomi, 393 
 
 Kumenes visiting Sambucus, 227 
 
 Euplxa ochsenheimeri, curious habits of, 
 138 
 
 Eurhinia fulva, 172 ’ 
 
 Euschemidz, species of, mimicking Oph- 
 thalmis sp., 173 
 
 Husemia belangeri, odour emitted by, 173 
 
 Fah-hian, Chinese pilgrim, 97 
 
 Fairy blue-bird, 67 
 
 Falls of river Semangka, 167 
 
 Famine in Ulak-Tandjong region, 233 
 
 Fatuboi, visit to, 469; description of, 
 469 , 
 
 Fatunaba hills selected for a house, 417, 
 420; beauty of the view from, 421 
 
 Fawcett, Mr. W., on Timor plants, 506, 
 515; description of new Vaccinium, 
 278 
 
 Febrifuges used in Timor-laut, 330 
 
 Fertilisation of Melastoma by Bombus, 
 228 
 
 Fertilisation of Myrmecodia and Hydno- 
 phytum, 80; of orchids, 82-97 
 
 Fertilisation of Sambucus, note on, 226, 
 227 
 
 Fever, dangerous malarial in Timor- 
 laut, 330 
 
 Ficus aspera, 77; cordifolia, 77; mi- 
 crocarpa, 77; amplas, 77; radicans, 
 77; politoria, 77 
 
 Fields of Buruese tabooed, 403 
 
 Fig-trees, beauty of, 77 
 
 Fight, cock-, 188 
 
 File-fishes in Keeling lagoon, 24 
 
 Fire in herbarium drying-house in 
 Timor-laut, 336 
 
 Fishes most eaten in Java, 60 
 
 Fish-preserves in rice-fields, 170 
 
 Flies on Keeling Islands, 31; on Ten- 
 gamus, 159; on Dempo, 210; at 
 species of Rafflesiacex, 206 
 
 Floating block of land, 486 
 
 Floods, effect of, on Rupit valley, 239 ; 
 in river Ogan, 185 
 
 Flora at Fatuboi, 470; of the Kaba, 
 232; along Rawas river, 251; along 
 Rupit river, 237, 238; on voleanic 
 
INDEX. 
 
 529 
 
 
 
 mountains in Java, 78 ; on Tengamus 
 mountains, 157, 158; richness of 
 temperate, 1; a temperate, in Timor, 
 440 
 
 Florxz Timorensis Prodromus, 497 
 
 Flowers in tropics, 251, 257; floating 
 on river, 254 
 
 Flowers and fruit, scarcity of on trees in 
 Java, 75 
 
 Fluggea microcarpa, 206 
 
 Flying-fox, long journeys of, 32 
 
 Forbes, Mrs., joins me in Batavia, 283 ; 
 aids me in Amboina, 291; great 
 favourite with the natives of Timor- 
 laut, 306 ; left at Fatunaba, 426, 427 ; 
 bad news from, 478; extract from 
 her journal, 482 
 
 Foreign influences in Buru, 401 
 
 Franca, da, Major 283; Mr. Bento, 
 
 416; Madame, 484, 487 
 
 Fremantle, Capt. (H.M.S. Juno), pro- 
 claims Keeling Islands English terri- 
 tory, 16 
 
 Forest-devastation in Java, 62; in Su- 
 matra, 132 
 
 French marigold, 440 
 
 Frigate-birds, habits of, 32 
 
 Frogs in trees and thatch at Paso, 292 
 
 Functions, different, of anthers in 
 Melastoma, 229, 230 
 
 Fruit, scarcity of, on trees in Java, 75 
 
 Fungoid disease on trees in Java, 76 ; 
 in Timor, 76 
 
 Future state, ideas of Passumahers as 
 to, 200 
 
 Galium, 440 
 
 Games of children in Batu Pantjeh, 
 219; in Timor-laut, 321; in Lam- 
 pongs, 149 
 
 Game-cocks in Hoodjoong, 171 
 
 Ganoris, coloration of sexes of, 180 
 
 Garson, Dr. J. G., on the cranial cha- 
 racters of natives of Timor-laut, 340 ; 
 on the Kubus of Sumatra, 243, 261 
 
 Gaudichaud’s plants from Timor, 497 
 
 Gaultheria leucocarpa in craters, 114 ; 
 punctata in craters, 114; repens, 78 
 
 Gecarcinus, habits of, 27 
 
 Gedong-tetahan, in Sumatra, stay ut, 
 126-130; attacked by a tiger near, 
 128 
 
 Geikie, Dr. A., F.R.S., on coral reefs, 
 40 
 
 Gelpke, Dr. Solewijn, collection of stone 
 implements of Java by, 67 
 
 Gelasimus, fields of, 294; habits of 
 species of, 25, 26 
 
 Gelan, Wai, village of, in Buru, 595 
 
 Genteng, in Bantam, stay at, 53 
 
 Geological structure of Komai.valley, 
 432; of Kaimauk river, 433; of Ve- 
 
 birah river, 479; strata near Muara- 
 Dua, 179; of Samoro valley, 471; of 
 Rawas region, 249; of Karang-nata 
 Peak, 251 
 
 George’s, King, uniform in the Passu- 
 mah Lands, 204 
 
 Geocichla machiki, 337 
 
 Gessir, visit to, 299 
 
 Geyser of the Dempo, 211 
 
 Gibbons in Java, 70 
 
 Gleichenia, 78 
 
 Gloriosa superba, in T ‘mor, 471 
 
 Gluta benghas, escharotic effect of its 
 sap, 113 
 
 Gold-mines in Rawas region, 249 
 
 Sec araa ceremonies in ‘l'imor, 
 
 67 
 
 Gold in Timor rivers, 467; in Rupit 
 river, 239 , 
 
 Gold coins refused by natives of Timor- 
 laut, why, 306 
 
 Goitre in Hoodjoong, 171; its supposed 
 cause, 171; in the Rawas district, 
 171; in Timor, 468 
 
 Goodyera procera, fertilisation of, 96 
 
 Gordonia excelsa, 207 
 
 ore singular in Passumah Lands, 
 19 
 
 Gossypium micranthum, 403 - 
 
 Governor of Portuguese Timor, 283; 
 286 
 
 Grace of Timor-laut islanders, 322 
 
 Gracula javanensis, notes on, 72 
 
 Grackle, Javanese, 72 
 
 Grave-yard trees in Sumatra, 169 
 
 Guichenot’s plants from Timor, 497 
 
 Gunung-Megang, burial-ground of, 182 
 
 Gunung-Trang, pepper trade of, 135 
 
 Gygis candida, piloted by, 12, nesting- 
 place, 34 
 
 Habenaria Susannex, fertilisation of, 
 296, 423 
 
 Hair, manner of arranging in Timor- 
 laut, 307; vanity of men about, 
 307; eagerness to have it cut in 
 Timor-laut, 309; superstitious fear of 
 our possessing scraps of their, 309; 
 character of, in Timor-laut islanders, 
 309; of Buruese at Wakolo Lake, 402 
 
 Halicore australis, 336 
 
 Halobates (water bugs), 12 
 
 Hanjuang trees, 169 
 
 Hare, Mr. Alexander, and his relations 
 with Mr. J. C. Ross, 14 
 
 Hargitt, Mr., on Miglyptes, 56 
 
 Harvesting in Timor, 454; near Hood- 
 joong, 170, 171 
 
 Hats, Bantamese, 59; 
 Solorese, 285 
 
 Head-flattening in Timor-laut, 316 
 
 2M 
 
 Ogan, 158; 
 
030 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 
 Head-hunting in Timor, 450 
 
 Hebomoia, coloration of sexes of, 130 
 
 Hemileia, coffee disease, 71, 76 
 
 Hemiptera, winged, milked by ants, 
 251; of Keeling Islands, 31 
 
 Henslow, Prof., Mr. Darwin’s Keeling 
 plants described by, 28, 42 
 
 Herbarium at Wakolo lake left behind, 
 407; disaster to, made in Timor- 
 laut, 334 
 
 Herodias nigripes, 33 
 
 Herons in Keeling Islands, 33; killed 
 by glutinous seeds, 80 
 
 Hesperiidx, habits of butterflies of 
 family, 63 
 
 Heterodes ansonialis, 177 
 
 Hoodjoong, village of, 169 
 
 House at Fatunaba attacked, 460; 
 difficulty in getting a, in Timor-laut, 
 305; cluster in the Komai valley, 
 431; in Buru, 395 
 
 Home’s, Sir Everard, plants from Timor, 
 498 
 
 Homopsyche, the genus, 172 
 
 Honey-eaters, 304; in Buru, 338; in 
 Ceram, in Timor, 338 
 
 Honey, scarcity of, in Java in 1878, 75 
 
 Honey-glands on Sambucus, 226, 227 
 
 ‘ Honour door,’ order of the, 146 
 
 Hornbill, Great, 153, 154 
 
 Husband clans in Timor, 457 
 
 Huts in trees, their use, 431, 434 
 
 Hyalobates leuciscus, 70; variegatus, 
 156 
 
 Hymenoptera of Keeling Islands, 31; 
 from Timor-laut, 380 
 
 Hydnophytum formicarium, 79, 80, 81 
 
 Hydrocisa albriostris, 154 
 
 Hydrocichla ignicapillus, 154 
 
 Hypericum sp. in Java, 112 
 
 Hypolymnas anomala, note on colouring 
 of, 134; forbes, 325; wallaceana, 134 
 
 Hypotxnidia striata, 177 
 
 Hypoxis hygrometrica, 447 
 
 Insect fauna, of Sumatra, additions to, 
 274; of Keeling Islands, 30 
 
 Tusects carried by cyclone, 30 
 
 Trene turcosa, 67 
 
 Ixias flavipennis, new species, 215, 275 
 
 Journal, Mrs. Forbes’, extract from, 482 
 Janson, Mr. Oliver, description of a new 
 species of Cetoniide by, 496 
 
 Kaba, crater of the, 230, 231; hot 
 springs at, 225 
 
 Kaimauk river, 439 
 
 Kajeli, arrive at, 391; description of 
 town and fort, 391; trade of, 392 
 
 Kajuput oil, 392 
 
 Kaleobar, hostility of the villagers of, 
 304 
 
 Kallima spiridiva, new species, 274 
 
 Kamp, Mr. Controller, 234, 240 
 
 “ Kang-kang ” frog, mimicry by, 155, 
 164 
 
 Karang-Nata Peak, flora of, 251; geo- 
 logy of, 251 
 
 Karangs or Kalangs, a curious tribe 
 at Kosala, 99; their worship, 99 ; 
 curious customs of, 100 
 
 Ké, touch at, 300 
 
 Keeling Islands, see Cocos-Keeling 
 Islands 
 
 Keane, Mr., on. ethnical relations of 
 the people of Timor-laut, 311 
 
 Keleboho, rest at Mount, 430 
 
 Kenali, village of, 167; crops in 
 neighbourhood of, 167; soil near, 
 167; houses in, 168 
 
 Kepala Tjurup, camp at, 225, 
 
 Kerivoula javana, 71 
 
 Kero, or thief gibbet, 472, 473 
 
 Kisam writing, 181; versification, 181 ; 
 dress, 182; religion, 182 ; burial cus- 
 toms, 182; oaths, 182 ; houses in, 179; 
 coat of arms in a Kisam village, 180 
 
 King, death rites of a, in Timor, 437 
 
 King, Dr. George, his monographon the 
 figs, 517 
 
 Kirby, Mr. W. F., on Hymenoptera and 
 Diptera from Timor-laut, 380 
 
 Komai, valley of the, 4380; house- 
 cluster in, 431 
 
 Kosala, in Bantam, 97; ruins at, 98; 
 the estate-house of, 59; in the Deccan, 
 97 ; in Sarayu, 97 
 
 Kotta-djawa, village of, in Sumatra, 131 
 
 Krakatoa eruption, 77; earthquake, 
 wave of, 126; volcano, 488 
 
 Kubus, a forest-living race in Sumatra, 
 233, 234; intelligence of. 242; phar- 
 macopeeia of, 243 ; traditions of, 243; 
 pedigree of, 244; death rites of, 243 ; 
 their manner of trading, 235; no cul- 
 tivation among, 236; no arts among, 
 236; clothing of, 236; dogs kept 
 by, 236; features of, 236; physical 
 characteristics of, 241, 242 ; language 
 of, 241; marriage among, 241; in- 
 termarriage with Malays, 241; pro- 
 perty of, 242 
 
 Kuing (or sacred) region in Buru, 397 
 
 Laccadive archipelago, 4 
 
 Laclo, Rajah’s of, account of, 480 ; priso- 
 ners at, 480 
 
 Lagerstremia, 238 
 
 Laibobar Peak, 332 
 
 Boone Rajah’s of, 479; dwellings at, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 531 
 
 
 
 ao description of a species of, 
 
 76 
 
 Lampongs, the, in 8S. Sumatra, female 
 ornaments ‘in, 126, 147; feasts in, 
 147; marriage customs in, 150; its 
 language, 141; alphabet and cha- 
 racters, 142 
 
 Lampongers, descent of, 141; titles 
 among, 143; dances among, 146, 149 
 
 Lamkitos, mode of fighting of, 451 
 
 Laniellus leucogrammicus in Java, 115 
 
 Landslips as the effect of rain, 115 
 
 Lantana, flowers of, insects attracted 
 by, 134 
 
 Larat, gibbeted heads and members 
 on the islet of, 302 
 
 Larantuka, call at, 284 
 
 Lash, Mr. H., his kindness and aid, 68 
 
 Lata, the curious disease called, 69, 70 
 
 Land, block of floating, 486 
 
 Lawang Koree, order of, 146 
 
 Laws in Timor, 456 
 
 Layard, E. L., on weaver-birds, 57 
 
 Ledger’s, Mr., account of introduction 
 of cinchona seeds, 109 
 
 Leisk, Mr., at the Keeling Islands, 15 
 
 Leobarbus, species of, 177 
 
 Lepar, Sumatran game, 219 
 
 Lepidoptera from Timor-laut, 375; of 
 Keeling Islands, 31 
 
 Leptocircus virescens mimics a dragon- 
 fly, 139. 
 
 Leptoptilus, in Sumatra, 177 
 
 Lepturus repens, aid of, in reclaiming 
 land from the sea, 26 
 
 ‘ Les Nectaires’ (M. Bonnier), 226 
 
 Life on the Sumatran rivers, delights 
 of, 257 
 
 Liguani river, 480 
 
 Liminitis bockii, 215 
 
 Limun, the gold of, 249 
 
 Linga and Yoni, worship of, at Kosala, 
 101 
 
 Linsang gracilis, caught swimming, 255 
 
 Lintang river, raft journey on, 215; 
 scenery along, 216 
 
 Liparidx, mimicry in, 173 
 
 Lohita grandis, 277 
 
 Lomaptera timorensis, 417 
 
 “ Long-age ” whortleberry, 210 
 
 Ludicrous procession in Sumatra, 175 
 
 Luli, or taboo, 431; Uma-Luli, the 
 sacred institution of the Timorese, 
 424 
 
 Lulied ground, as rich botanical pre- 
 serves, 454 
 
 Luminosity of the forest, wonderful, 
 164 
 
 Luntar, village of, 183; feast in, 183 
 
 Lusciniola fuliginiventris, 212 
 
 Macacus cynomologus in Timor, 471 
 
 Machik, Dr. and Madame, their kind- 
 ness, in Sumatra, 126; in Amboina, 
 299, 339, 408 
 
 Macluer Inlet, New Guinea, behaviour 
 of natives of, 300 
 
 Mafra, 1 
 
 Macrophthalmus, 25 ; habits of, 26 
 
 Mahori races, dispersion of, from Buru, 
 392 
 
 Malay dignity, 246 
 
 Malays, intermarriage of, with Kubus, 24 
 
 Malay bear, 255 
 
 Malawar, Mount, in Java, 108 
 
 Maldive Archipelago, 4 
 
 Mammalia of Sumatra, Mr. Wallace 
 on, 165 
 
 Mammalia in Keeling Islands, 31 
 
 Mangifera fetida, 239 
 
 Marga, Sumatran communal division, ° 
 142; its laws, 142; its divisions, 143 
 
 Markham’s, Mr, Clements R., cinchona 
 mission, 110 
 
 Market, native, in Bantam, 59; in 
 Timor, 461 
 
 Marriage customs, in Batu-Pantjeh, 
 218; curious, in Timor, 457; in 
 Lampongs, 150; and rites in Timor- 
 laut, 315; in Buru, 404; the cere- 
 mony among Passumahers, 196 
 
 Marriage, author’s, 283 
 
 Maru, my men pay a collecting visit to, 
 329 
 
 Matriarchal descent, evidences of, in 
 Lampongs, 151 ; in Passumah Lands, 
 196 ; in Timor, 457 
 
 Matakau, sacred edifice in Buru, and 
 contents of, 395 
 
 Matches, paraffin, wide use of, 152 
 
 Maukuda river, 440 
 
 Mauvais quart Vheure, in Timor-laut, 
 330 
 
 Megacriodes forbesti, 276 
 
 Megalophrys nasuta mimics dead leaves, 
 155; in coitu, 155 
 
 Megalurus amboinensis, 295 
 
 Melanitis suradeva, 172 
 
 Melastoma, its fertilisation, 229; on 
 the Kaba, 228 
 
 Melettia, 237 
 
 Menado, call at, 486 
 
 Merops philippinus, 4; sumatranus, 247 
 
 Metroxylon filare, 393 
 
 Meyer, Dr. A. B., on birds from Timor- 
 laut, 355 
 
 Microhierax fringillarius, 56 
 
 Miers, J., Mr., on crustacea from Timor- 
 laut, 382 
 
 Miglyptes tristis, 56; gramminithorax, 
 56 
 
 Migration of snipe, 34; teal,34; weaver- 
 bird, 34 
 
532 
 
 Mimicry among Lepidoptera, 139, 173 ; 
 in birds, additional example of, 338 ; 
 in a spider, 63 
 
 Missionaries, Catholic, 480 
 
 Mitrosacme sp., 452 
 
 Mixture of races in Timor-laut, 311 
 
 Moens’, Dr., experiments on cinchona, 
 109 
 
 Months, names of the, in Timor, 489 
 
 Muara-Dua, trade of the town of, 178; 
 geological strata near, 179 
 
 Muara-Inim, town of, its importance, 
 191 
 
 Muara-Mengkulem, sojourn at, 250 
 
 Muara-Rupit, town of, 239; its impor- 
 tance, 239, 240 
 
 Miiller, Fritz, on fertilisation of Melas- 
 toma, 229 
 
 Miiller’s, H., observations on Sambu- 
 cus, 226 
 
 Munia pallida, 422 
 
 Muntok, call at, 260 
 
 Murray’s, Mr. J., theory of coral rcefs, 
 36, 37, 40 
 
 Murcenoids, 23 
 
 Musseenda frondosa, 422 
 
 Musical performance in Buru, 390 
 
 Mydaus, badger-headed, distribution 
 of, in Java, 15 
 
 Mydausmeliceps, 114 ; 
 115 
 
 Myiagra galeata, 294 
 
 Myophoneus melanura, 172; dicrorhyn- 
 chus, 172 
 
 Myristicivora bicolor, 295; melanura, 
 393 
 
 Myrmecodia tuberosa, 79 ; 
 
 Myzomela annabellx, 338; 
 422; wakoloensis, 405 
 
 distribution of, 
 
 sp., 295 
 vulnerata, 
 
 Napal-litjin, village of, 250 
 
 Natives of Amboina, character of, 292 
 
 Native names for plants, 54, 55 
 
 Nectaries, floral, 226 ; long, of Habena- 
 ria, 296 
 
 Negrito race, Kubus not of the, 244 
 
 Negritoes in Timor, 467 
 
 Nene Poyang, or stem-forefather, re- 
 verence of, in Passumah, 198; in 
 Tandjone-Ni ing 224; oath over his 
 grave-stone, 224 
 
 New Guinea, land in Macluer Inlet 
 in, 300 
 
 Neopsittacus euteles, 421 
 
 Neosalica forbest, 277 
 
 Nepenthes phyllamphora, 78 
 
 Nicholson, Mr. F., Papers in Ibis on 
 Sumatran birds, "56, 268 
 
 Nobility, the, of the Lampongers, 145, 
 148 
 
 Nocturnal habits of Apis dorsata, 478 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Nutmegs, the gathering of, 287; a 
 delightful article of trade, 286 
 
 Nutmeg, gardens of, in Banda, 286 
 
 Nyctiornis amicta, 129 
 
 Nycticorax caledonicus, 33 
 
 Nymphalidx, new, from Sumatra, 274 
 
 Oaks on Rupit river, 237; on Rawas 
 river, 252 
 
 Oaths, of Kisam people, 182; among 
 the Passumahers, 198; in Buru, how 
 taken, 395; taken over a stone, 198 ; 
 in a circle on the ground, 199; by 
 drinking water, 395 
 
 Observation, powers of, among Sun- 
 danese, 54 
 
 Ocypoda, habits of, 26 
 
 Odour emitted by Eusemia belangeri, 
 173 
 
 Oondang-oondang 
 Marga), 142 
 
 Ogan valley, calcareous hills in, 185 ; 
 carvings, 186 
 
 Ogan river, 183, 184 
 
 Ophrys apifera, fertilisation of, 85, 95 
 
 Ophthalmis lineea, mimicry of, 173; 
 decipiens, mimicry of, 173 
 
 Orchid fertilisation, 82-97 
 
 Orders among the Lampongers, 145 
 
 Oreodoxa oleracea, 10 
 
 Orescius gouldi, 172 
 
 Oriolus decipiens, 337; buruensis, 398 ; 
 maculatus, 56 
 
 Ornaments of Passumahers, 195; of the 
 Lampongers, 147; in Timor-laut, 
 313; of the Timorese, 462 
 
 Ornithoptera brookeana, 227; priamus, 
 291; remus, 291; amphrysus, 139 
 
 Ornithoptera at Paso, 291; feed on 
 Cerbera flowers, 291 
 
 Ornithoscatoides decipiens, new genus 
 and species of spider, 63, 119, 120, 216 
 
 Orthoptera of Keeling Islands, 31 
 
 Osteological characters of Kubus of 
 Sumatra, 243, 244, 261 
 
 Ostrea, fossil, in Java, 63 
 
 (or laws of the 
 
 Padang-Ulak-Tandjong, village of, 225 
 
 Padj ar-bulan, carvings and coat of arms 
 in village of, 180 
 
 Paganism in ‘the upland plateaus of 
 Sumatra, 191; in Passumah, 198 
 
 Palzornis longicauda, 247 
 
 Palembang, arrival at, 257; construc- 
 tion of the town, 257, 260 ; population, 
 259 ; trade, 259; rivers of, 178 
 
 Pandanus ceramicus, 403; heliocopus, 
 255 
 
 Pandans on the Kaba, 232 
 
 Pangolin, habits of, 115 
 
 Pangium-trees, load of fruit on the, 238 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Panzxthia simulans, mimicry by, 173 
 
 Pangkat, or title in the Lampongs, 
 144 
 
 Panthous cocalus, 277; talus, 277 
 
 Pantjalan, or native boats, how made, 
 
 Papilionidx, new, from Sumatra, 274 
 
 Papilio forbesi, 177, 275; albolineatus, 
 new species, 275; ittam-puti, new 
 species, 177, 276; saturnus, 276; 
 diaphantus, 215; aberrans, 303; 
 ulysses, 295 
 
 Papuans in Timor, 466 
 
 Paraffin matches, wide use of, 152 
 
 Parus timorensis, 459 
 
 Paso, stay at, 289; its Rajah, 290; 
 superstitions at, 290 
 
 Paspalum, species of grass, 428 
 
 Passumah Lands, appearance of, from a 
 distance, 192; gorges in, 192; de- 
 seent of the inhabitants, 194; thea- 
 trical performances in, 194; account 
 of the creation in the, 194 
 
 Passumahers, dress of, 195; ornaments 
 of, 195; marriage among, 196; re- 
 ligion of, 198; oaths of, 198; their 
 descent, 194; mental and physical 
 characteristics of, 195; death customs 
 of, 199 
 
 Passumah-Ulu-Manna, 204 
 
 Pau, on the Dempo, 193; stay at, 255 
 
 Peak of Laibobar, 332 
 
 Pecten, fossil, in Java, 63 
 
 Pemphis acidula, aid of, in reclaiming 
 land from sea, 26, 28 
 
 Pengandonan, village of, 185 
 
 Penanggungan, stay at, 139 
 
 Pengelengan, village in Java, 108 
 
 Pentacitrotus transversa, 172 
 
 Pepadon, the order of the, 145 
 
 Pepper trade in 8. Sumatra, 127; 
 at Gunung Trang, 135 
 
 Periophthalmus, 294 
 
 Peristylis viridis, fertilisation of, 85 
 
 Petrzxa arborea, occurrence of, in Java, 
 78; in Timor, 78 
 
 Persecution of Papilionide by Pieridz, 
 134 
 
 Petrzxovitex in Buru, 514 
 
 Petroleum, wide use of, 152 
 
 Phajus blumei, fertilisation of, 85-88, 
 94 
 
 Phalenopsis amabilis, 10; grandiflora, 10 
 
 Phallic worship at Kosala, LOL 
 
 Phaeton candidus, 33. 
 
 Pheidole javana, ant inhabiting Myr- 
 mecodia and Hydnophytum, 79, 81 
 Philemon, 304; témorlaoensis, 421, 337 ; 
 moluccensis, 393 ; timorensis, 421 
 Phosphorescence in the Amboina Bay, 
 
 296 
 
 O00 
 
 Phragmatecia arundinis, 178 
 
 Pieridz fertilising Sambucus, 227; as 
 persecutors of Papilionidx, 134 
 
 Pig-roasting ia Buru, 398 
 
 Pisonia inermis on Keeling Islands, 
 30; its seeds carried by birds, 30, 
 33; seeds fatal to birds, 30 
 
 Pitcher-plants, 78 
 
 Pitta venusta, 226 
 
 Plants from 'limor-laut, list of, 354 
 
 Plants of Keeling Island, list of, 42, 48 
 
 Plantago major in Java, 112 
 
 Platylophus coronatus, 67; galericula- 
 tus, 67 
 
 Ploceus hypoxanthus migrating to Keel- 
 ing Island, 34; nest of, 56 
 
 Pnoepyga pusilla, 207 
 
 Poisoned water, outburst of, in Keeling - 
 Island, 19, 40 
 
 Poisonous fishes, 24 
 
 Poliztus humilis, 252 
 
 Pollen, different kinds of, from different 
 forms of anther in Melastoma, 229 
 
 Polyandry doubtful in Pomatorhinus 
 montanus, 72 
 
 Polynesian races, dispersion of, 392 
 
 Polynesians in Timor, 466 
 
 Polyplectron chalcururus, 172 
 
 Pomatorhinus montanus, habits of, 72 
 
 Pomali sign in Buru, 400 
 
 Porphyrio melanopterus, 394 
 
 Portuguese words in Malay, 6 
 
 Portuguese language, permanence of, 
 417 
 
 Prisoners at Laclo, 480 
 
 Protective ‘resemblance 
 cinctus, 459 
 
 Protoparce orientalis, 423 
 
 Pteropus, long journeys of, 32 
 
 Ptilopus cinctus, 459; protective re- 
 semblance of, 459; diadematus 287 ; 
 porphyreus, 72; wallacii, 325 
 
 Pumice-stone-tuff plateau near Kenali, 
 168 ; pumice at Timor-laut, 332 
 
 Python preys on Cuscus, 292 
 
 in Ptilopus 
 
 Quelch, Mr. J. J., 496 ; list of corals from 
 Keeling Islands by, 44-47 
 
 Quetta, SS. return to Europe in, 488 
 
 Races in Timor, 418; red-haired race, 
 464; Malays, 466 
 
 Raffles, Sir Stamford, his memory in 
 Sumatra, 204; Lady, Memoir of Sir 
 Stamford by, 268 
 
 Rafflesia sp., 10 
 
 Rafflesia arnoldi, 154 
 
 Rafflesiacex, 215; new species of, 206 
 
 Raft journeys, on river Lintang, 215; on 
 Musi river, 217; on Rupit river, 237 
 
 Rains, effect of heavy, in Keeling 
 Islands, 40; denuding effect of, 115 
 
0384 
 
 Rain, effects of, 174 
 
 Rakit, combined house and boat, 183; 
 my, down Rawas and Musi, 252- 
 260; how managed, 253; pleasures 
 of a journey in, 255-257; dangers, 
 255 ; price of a, 258 
 
 Rallus philippensis, 34 
 
 Ranau district, chiefs of, 176; lake of, 
 176; temperature of lake of, 177; 
 Ranau tobacco, 170 
 
 Rats, plague of, at Fatunaba, 484 
 
 Rawas region, dances of, 247; gold- 
 mines in, 249; people of, 246; dig- 
 nified bearing of chiefs of, 246 
 
 Rawas river, bird life along, 252; flora 
 on banks, 251 
 
 Red-haired race in Timor, 464 
 
 Regal succession in Timor, 458 
 
 Reinwardt’s plants from Timor, 497 
 
 Religion of the Passumahers, 198 
 
 Remijzia virbia, moth at Fatunaba, 
 423 
 
 Remusatia vivipara, 470 
 
 Reptiles and batrachians from Timor- 
 laut, list of, 368 
 
 Rhinoceros in Sumatra, 158, 165 
 
 Rhinocichla mitrata, 226 
 
 Rhinococcyx curvirostris, 56; javensis, 
 
 Rhipidura rufiventris, 459 
 
 Rhododendron magniflorum, 208; re- 
 tusum, in craters, 114; tubiflorum, 
 159; malayanum, 159 
 
 Rhynchota, description of, from Sumatra, 
 277 
 
 Rthytidocerus subrufficollis, 252 
 
 Riang Peak, its geological structure, 
 185 
 
 Rice cultivation in Bantam, 52; at Kot- 
 ta-djawa, Sumatra, 131, 132; near 
 Kenali, 168 
 
 Rice, loss on, from drought, in Java, 75 
 
 Rice-field charm, 170 
 
 Ridley, Mr. 8. O., list of corals from 
 Keeling Islands by, 44-47, 496 
 
 Ridley, Mr. H. N., description of new 
 plants by, 513 
 
 Riedel, Resident of Amboina, his con- 
 duct towards us, 288; his action ne- 
 cessitates our leaving the Moluccas, 
 408; this repudiated by the Dutch 
 Government, 408; his plants from 
 Timor, 498 
 
 Riedlé’s plants from Timor, 497 
 
 Ritabel, camp in village of, 302 
 
 Roads in Timor, 428, 432, 433, 467 
 
 Ross, Sir J. C., 15 
 
 Ross, Mr. G. C., 13 
 
 Ross, J. C., founder of Keeling Colony, 
 15 
 
 Rubus lineatus, 114, 208 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Rupit river, vegetation along, 237, 238 ; 
 its bird life, 238; scenery along, 238 ; 
 gold in, 239 
 
 Saddle and bridle of Timorese, 449 
 
 Saluki, visit to, 461 2 
 
 Salvadori, Count, on Platylophus galeri- 
 culatus, 67; on Buru birds, 409 
 
 Sambucus javanica, 226, 227; visited 
 by Eumenes, 227; visited by Pieride, 
 227; racemosa, 226 
 
 Saparua, visit to, 299 
 
 Sauo, curious rocks at, 433; house- 
 cluster at, 435_ 
 
 Sautier’s plants from Timor, 497 
 
 Saué berdundun, Passumah marriage 
 service, 196 
 
 Sawah mountains, 161 
 
 Scarcity of flowers and fruits in trees in 
 Java, 75 
 
 Scars burned on limbs by natives of 
 Timor-laut to ward of small-pox, 
 313 
 
 Scarus, 21; poisonous species of, 24 
 
 Schizostachium durto, 471 
 
 Scheffer, Dr., 51, 103 
 
 Sciuropterus, 137 
 
 Selater, Dr. P. L., on Philemon, 338 ; on 
 birds of Timor-laut, 355 
 
 Sculptured figures in Passumah Lands, 
 201, 203; their origin, 202 
 
 Sea, depth of, at mouth of Palembang 
 river, 260 
 
 Seals, native ideas about, 205 
 
 Seeds buried by crabs, 26 
 
 Sekawang, corollas of, 233 
 
 Seleucides alba, 286 
 
 Self-fertilisation in orchids, 85-67 
 
 Semangka river, journey along the, 162 ; 
 falls of, 167 
 
 Semper, Prof., on coral reefs, 36, 37, 40 
 
 Sero, or fish maise, 289 
 
 Servants, difficulties with, at Fatunaba, 
 423 
 
 Sesako, order of the, 146 
 
 Setaria, species of grass, 428 
 
 Sheep on Keeling Island, 31 
 
 Siamanga syndactyla, 70, 129; young 
 tame, 156; its interesting habits and 
 death, 160 
 
 Sibia simillima, 226 
 
 Sibissie, Peak of, 12 
 
 Silicified trees in Java, 63 
 
 Simotes forbest, 337 
 
 Siphia banjumas in Java, 115 
 
 Slabung, bridge over the river, 178 
 
 Slaves in Timor-laut, 312 
 
 Smith, Christopher, his plants from 
 Timor, 497 
 
 Snakes in Timor-laut, 337 
 
 Snipe in Keeling Islands, 34 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Sobale, Mount (in Timor), ascent of, 
 474; flora of, 475; summit sacred, 
 475; view from, 476 
 
 Solorese in Cupang (Timor), 285; their 
 dress, 285 ; artistic taste among, 285 
 
 Songs, harvest, in Timor, 454 
 
 Soporific powder, recipe for native, 245 
 
 Sowing of the seed in 'l'imor, ceremonies 
 attending, 455 
 
 Spanoghe’s plants from Timor, 497 
 
 Spathoglottis plicata, fertilisation of, 
 89-91 
 
 Spectre of the Brocken, 213 
 
 Spider, alluringly coloured, 63 
 
 Spider-eater, 233 
 
 Springs, hot, at Kaba, 225 
 
 Stanley’s, Captain Owen, account of 
 Timor-laut, 301, 302 
 
 Sterculia fetida, 334 
 
 Stone implements in Java, 67 
 
 Stone, oath over a, 199 
 
 Sturnopastor alla, habits of, 55 ; melan- 
 opterus, habits of, 55 
 
 Styrax subpaniculatum, 207 
 
 Sugar, loss on, from drought, in Java, 75 
 
 Sukau, village of, 175 
 
 Suku, or division of village in Sumatra, 
 143 
 
 Sula piscatrixz, habits of, 32 
 
 Sumatra, disposition of hill and plain 
 in, 126 
 
 Sunda Straits, 4; sunsets in the, 12 
 
 Sundanese people, 52 ; language, 53; as 
 naturalists, 54 
 
 Superstitions, at Paso, 290; about Dem- 
 po, 213; in Buru, 405; in Timor-laut, 
 as to hair, 309; as to parting with rela- 
 tive’s cranium, 309; in Java about 
 wild dogs; 116; about krisses, 117; 
 about trees, 137 
 
 Surabaya, call at, 488 
 
 Suringar, Prof., 8 
 
 Surulangun, stay at, 240; meet Kubus 
 at, 240 
 
 Suya albigularis, 209 
 
 Swangi or evil spirits, belief in, in Timor, 
 429, 438; in Buru, 405 
 
 Synanthemum in rice-fields, 170 
 
 Tabat (fresh-water ponds near Mount 
 Dempo), 214 
 
 Tabédu (dance) in Timor, 451 
 
 Tachypetes minor, habits of, 32 
 
 Tagetes patula, 440 
 
 Tandjong-Ning, village of, 221; great 
 forest near, 222; lose a man by a tiger 
 near, 222 
 
 Tangalunga in Timor-laut, 312 
 
 Tatooing in Timor-laut, 313 
 
 Tea from Anaphalis, 210 
 
 Teal in Keeling Islands, 34 
 
 D380 
 
 Tebbing-Tinggi, town of, 221 
 
 Tehula, Mount, 430 
 
 Telok-betong, town in Sumatra, 125, 
 161 
 
 Tenaris buruensis, description of, 411, 
 396 
 
 Tengamus, ascent of Mount, 139, 157; 
 flora of, 158 
 
 Tengah-tengah, call at, 292 
 
 Tenimber Islands (see 'Timor-laut) 
 
 Terias laratensis, 325 
 
 Terpsy phone affinis, 
 
 Terraced hills at Kosala, 97 
 
 Terratas, stay at, 157 
 
 Ternstroemacex, 228 
 
 Tetranthera citrata, 78, 228 
 
 Teysmannia altifrons, 10 
 
 Teysmann, Mr., 9; his plants from | 
 Timor, 498 
 
 Thieves’ calendars, 244 
 
 Theatrical performance, embryo, 194 
 
 Theories as to coral reefs, 36 
 
 Thomas, Mr. O., on a new bat from Java, 
 aie lis 
 
 Thomisus decipiens, 63 
 
 Tiver eating Durian fruit, 240; attacked 
 by a, 128; lose a man by a, 222 ; tiger- 
 trap, 223; persistence of, after quarry, 
 223; wiliness of, 223; superstitions 
 about, 224; hatred of, 224 
 
 Tilu, Mount, in Java, 108 
 
 Timorese the, their dyes, 463; great 
 drunkards, 437, 464; vendettaamong, 
 464; character of the, 419, 424, 429; 
 food of the, 488; burial and death 
 rites among, 437; arms of, 463; 
 dress of, 462; ornaments of, 462; 
 carvings by, 464; their sacred in- 
 stitution of the Luli, 442 
 
 Timor, East, territorial divisions of, 
 425; dialects of, 425; description of 
 country, 432, 433; dialects spoken 
 in, 490; law in, how exercised, 473 ; 
 death and burial rites in, 435 
 
 Timor-laut, start for, 298; first im- 
 pressions of, 303; its flatness, 332; 
 want of hills and streams, 332; de- 
 rivation of name, 331; dangers in, 
 304, 327; hardships in, 338; pleasures 
 in, 339; isolation when in, 339; its 
 fauna, 336; reptiles in, 337; floral 
 
 features of, 303, 334; natural pro- 
 
 ducts of, 306 ; friendliness of natives, 
 305; mauvais quart @heure in, 330 
 
 Timor-laut islanders, artistic ability of, 
 317; appreciate bright colours, 317; 
 dwellings of, 318; great drunkards, 
 328; burial rites and places of, 322; 
 stature, colour of skin, 310; facial and 
 cranial characters of, 310, 311, 340; 
 moral characters of, 313, 314, 319, 
 
536 
 
 320; food of, 314; religion of, 314; 
 marriage laws and rites of, 315; 
 departure from, 339 
 
 Tiohmomon, pass through village of, 
 140 
 
 Titles in the Lampongs, 143 
 
 Tjipanas hot springs, 67 
 
 Trachycomus ochrocephalus, 36 
 
 Trading, manner of, of the Kubus, 235 
 
 “ Trassi,’’ native condiment, 60 
 
 Trepsichrois mulciber mimicked by 
 Amesia, 139; van-deventeri, new sp., 
 274 
 
 Treub’s, Dr., observations on Myrme- 
 codia and Hydnophytum, 82 
 
 Trientalis europxa, 78 
 
 Tringoides, 177 
 
 Tropical vegetation, 128 
 
 Tropic bird, 33 
 
 Trogons, colour in feathers of, 172 
 
 Turrets, earth-worm, 227 
 
 Turskain, Rajah’s of, flora near, 440; 
 arrival at, 441; the Rajah of, 447 
 
 Tweeddale, Lord, on birds of Sumatra, 
 268 
 
 Uma-luli (in Timor), 442; account of, 
 443-445, 447 
 
 Upas tree, notes on, 112 
 
 Urostiqgma microcarpum, 77; consocia- 
 tum, 77 
 
 Urostigma tree, giant in Lampongs, 153 
 
 Urtica ovalifolia, used to cure fatigue, 
 397 
 
 Vacciniacex near Dilly, 422 
 
 Vaccinium floribundum, in craters, 114 ; 
 forbesi, a new species, 209, 210, 278 
 
 Vanda insignis, 471 
 
 Van der Weide, Major, 408 
 
 Van Deventer, Justice and Madame, 
 408 
 
 Vanity of men of Timor-laut about 
 their hair, 307 
 
 Versification in Kisam, 181 
 
 View going up the Dempo, 210 
 
 Vinca rosea, 284 
 
 Viola alata, in Java, 112; patrinit, 430 
 
 Vocabulary of Timor werds, $91 
 
 Vocabulary of Ké and Timor-laut 
 words, 383 
 
 Volcanic flora in Java, 78, 114 
 
 Wai-apu river, 393 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Wai, Bay of, great beauty of submarine 
 gardens in, 293 
 
 Waitidal, visit to, 327 
 
 Wakolo lake, superstitions about, 405; 
 storms on, 406 ; no fish in, 406; birds 
 of, 406; herbarium from, lost, 407; 
 natives about, 401, 402; their physical 
 characters, 402; ornaments of, 402; 
 dress of, 403 
 
 Wallace Channel, in Timor-laut, 331 
 
 Wallace, Mr. A. R., collected birds in 
 Sumatra, 268; plants from Timor, 
 498 ; on birds of Buru, 409; on great 
 mammalia of Sumatra, 165 
 
 War ceremonies in Timor, 445-446, 
 450, 451 
 
 Wasilalé, camp at, 398; dwellings at, 
 399 
 
 Waterhouse, Mr. Charles O., on Cole- 
 optera from Timor-laut, 370; de- 
 scriptions of insects by, 276 
 
 Water-lilies in the rice-fields, 170 
 
 Waterproofing in Buru, 403 : 
 
 Water roads in Sumatran forest, 254 
 
 Wau-wau Gibbon, 70 
 
 Wave, earthquake, Keeling-Islands in, 
 19 
 
 Wayang, Mount, in Java, 108 
 
 White ants, 73, 74 
 
 White-eyes (Zosterops), 210, 212, 394; 
 in Banda, 287 : 
 
 Whortleberry, “ Long-age,” 209, 210 
 
 Wife-clans in Timor, 457 
 
 Wild dogs in Java, 116; native 
 accounts of habits of, and super- 
 stitions about, 116 
 
 Wiles’, James, plants from Timor, 497 
 
 Wollastonia asperrima, 447 
 
 Woman, position of the, in Passumah, 
 196; in Timor-laut, 315; in Buru, 
 400; in Timor, 463 
 
 Wood-carving in Kenali, 168 ; in Kisam, 
 180; among Timorese, 464; in Ti- 
 mor-laut, 317 
 
 Words, Buruese, 411 
 
 Xeropteryx simplicior, 177 
 Xylocopa, 72 
 
 Zethus cyanopterus, mimicry in, 72, 73 
 
 Zippel’s plants from Timor, 497 
 
 Zizyphus jujuba, 480 
 
 Zosterops, chloris, 287; chlorata, 210, 
 212; fertilising Vaccinium, 210 
 
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List of Publications 21 
 
 
 
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Sampson Low, Marston, & Co.’s List of Publications. 31 
 
 
 
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