WOODRUFF FIFTY YEARS AGO LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN UttfiiS iOittCAL SIHYEY Years Ago: OR, GLEANINGS RESPECTING THE HISTORY OF NORTHERN ILLINOIS A FEW YEARS PREVIOUS TO, AND DURING THE 3Y G. H. WOODRUFF AUTHOU OF "FORTY YEARS AGO," AND "FIFTEEN YEARS AGO CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF WISCONSIN. 4 4 < | J O L I E T : JOHKT REPUBLIC AND SUN PRINT. 4 1883. /T^TTT'TTTT'^T FIFTY YEARS AGO: OR, GLEANINGS RESPECTING THB HISTORY OF NORTHERN ILLINOIS A FEW YEARS PREVIOUS TO, AND DURING THE BLACK HAWK WAR 3Y G. H. WOODRUFF, ATJTHOK OF "FORTY YEARS AGO," AND "FIFTEEN YEARS AGO" CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE STATE HISTORICAL 8OCIKTY OF WISCONSIN. JOLIET: JOLIKT REPUBLIC AND SUN PRINT. 1883. / ' ' ' INTRODUCTORY. fl? [AVING been somewhat instrumental in fixing on the 2nd day of August as the day for the Pidneers Re-union for 1882 in Will county, and in giving to the meeting a semi-centennial odor, we felt called upon to justify our course by a brief review of the events of fifty years ago, particularly as they related to this por- tion of Northern Illinois. Hence, the series of Historical Gleanings, which appeared in the REPUBLIC during the few weeks pre- ceding the meeting. It was believed that while there were a few of our older citizens to whom the events were a memory, yet the later generation were, for the most part ignorant of them, and likely to remain so, inasmuch as the accounts of them which have been preserved are scattered through various county histories, local sketches and pamphlets, which are not accessible to the general public without more trouble than most persons would be willing to take. It was thought, therefore, that it would be a good thing to gather up the facts and incidents and 4o weave them into a connected narrative, which would post all who desire it in the history of this region fifty years ago. Some of our friends have flattered us with the suggestion that they were worthy of re-publication in a more convenient form for preservation. We only claim for them that they are gleanings, although con- siderable has been obtained by personal conversation and correspon^ dence with living survivors, who were actors and sufferers in the events narrated. Wherever we have found a statement bearing apon the subject we have appropriated it without a scruple, giving, generally, the source of information. The first pages go back to an earlier date, but it will be seen that they lead up to the subject. HISTORICAL GLEANINGS. PONTIAC. According to a tradition which we are disposed to believe, Will county was for a while the residence of a great historic character, the renowned Ottawa Chief, Pontiac. The long and bloody contest between England on the one side, and the French and Indians on the other, terminated in the treaty of peace at Paris in 1763. The most powerful ally of the French in the war for the possession of the territory included under the term New France, had been this noted Chief. He did not consider himself bound by this treaty, in the making of which the French had not consulted their Indian allies. Pontiac organized a conspiracy of the various tribes over which he was a recognized Chief, and succeeded in capturing various outposts and in butch- ering and stampeding hundreds of frontier families. He besieged Detroit for six months, but was defeated in his attempt to get possession of that post, and the Indians finally sued for peace, and a treaty waft concluded between the English and the Western tribes in August, 1764. Pontiac, disgusted with the result of the contest, left his native region, where he had held so long and so extended a sway, and with a remnant of his Ottawa warriors about 200 and their families retired farther West. According to tradition, he settled on the banks of the beautiful Kankakee. There are various and conflicting traditions of his death. We gave one in " Forty Years Ago," which we found in one of the books of Western Annals, written by N. Matson, of Bureau county. According to this tradition he was assassinated by a Chief of the Illinois at a council held near the Joliet Mound, in 1769. Northern Illinois Fifty Years Ago. Pontiac was without doubt one of the most gifted and brav- est of Indian Chiefs who have figured in our history. It is related of him that while carrying on the siege of Detroit, and running low in funds, he supplied his commissariat by issuing scrip made of birch bark bearing his u totem," as the only security for its redemption. It is also said that he promptly redeemed the issue a thing which c^uld not be said of a large amount of Michigan paper subsequently issued by white men. This remnant of Ottawa Indians was ultimately merged in the Pottawatamie tribe, and their principal village is said to have been on the Kankakee, not far from the present city of Wilming- ton. It was at this village that SHABBONEE an Indian who has figured largely in our more recent frontier history, was born in 1776. This was his own statement often made to different parties still living. He was born of Ottawa parents who accompanied Pontiac in his retirement to the Kan- kakee. Shabbonee became a Chief of the Pottawatamie tribe, by reason of the fact that he had married for his first wife a daughter of a Pottawatamie Chief named Spotka, who had a village near the mouth of the Fox river, and on his death was chosen his successor. As Shabbonee became prominent in the early history of this region, and was well known to the early settlers of this and adjacent counties, and especially because he rendered important service to the whites, his memory should be gratefully cherished, and the leading facts of his life and character should be preserved. N. Matson, Esq., of Bureau county, who was for many years well acquainted with Shabbonee, has written the most extended notice of him that we have seen. As soon as Shabbonee, at the death of Spotka, his father-in-law, became his successor, he removed his village from the Illinois river to a healthier locality on the head of Big Indian Creek, to a beautiful grove in the present limits of DeKalb county. There the tribe Northern Illinois Fifty Years Ago. 7 had their home for nearly fifty years, and the grove became a land mark known as Shabbonee's grove. It contained a fine sugar camp and a beautiful spring. The woods abounded in game, the creek in fish, while the adjacent prairie furnished rich com land. TECUMSEH. In 1807 Shabbonee visited the Wabash country and became acquainted with the Shawnee Chief, Tecumseh, to whom he became warmly attached. Tecum. i eh, who was about sevea years the senior of Sbabbonee, had conceived in his mind the project of uniting all the Western tribes in a league to prevent the further granting of lands to the whites, except on the consent of the whole confederation. In pursuance of this plan Tecumseb traveled very extensively among the Southern and Western tribes. In 1810 he visited Shabbonee, as well as several other Pottawatamie Chiefs, known by the names Saug-a-nash (Billy Caldwell) Senachwine, Black Partridge, Comas and Gomo From none of them did he get much encouragement. Shabbonee accompanied him along the Rock river and Mississippi. In 1811 he accompanied Tecumseh to the counsel held witb Gen. Harrison at Vincennee, which broke up without effecting any agreement. They then together visited the southern tribes. About two weeks after the battle of Tippecanoe they returned to the Wabash. This battle had been brought on by Tecumseh's brother, the Prophet, against his wishes, as his plans were not ripe for action. Shabbonee, much as he loved and admired Tecumseh, does not seem to have fully sympathized with him in his plans of attacking the white settlements. In 1812 Tecumseh sent runners along the Illinois informing the Indians of the war between England and the United States, and offering " big money " if they would take the side of England. Shabbonee intended to remain neutral, but learning. 8 Northern Illinois Fifty Years Ago. that a large party from other villages, and some from his own, had left for Chicago, he mounted his pony and followed He reached there a few hours after the massacre, and his mild and peace-loviag spirit was shocked at the blood and carnage there exhibited; and it was, no doubt, largely owing, to his influence, that the survivors were spared. Late in the autumn of that year, as Shabbonee's band were about to start out on their winter hunt, emissaries from Tecumseh arrived at Shabbonee's village. They were loaded with gew- gaws so dear to the female heart, whether savage or civilized, supplied no doubt by British gold, Tecumseh had also sent the wampum belt to Shabbonee asking him to join in the war on the side of the British, and promising in their name large reward. These runners also stated, falsely, that all the bands along the river had agreed to aid him. Deceived by these statements the hunt was abandoned, and Shabbonee, with twenty-two warriors started for the seat of war. He remained in the service as an aid . to Tecumseh until the close of the war, and was by the side of the great chieftain when he received his death blow at the battle of the Thames. There is no doubt that Shabbonee regretted having joined the side of the British in the war of 1812, and that he fully determined not to join in further hostilities against the white settlers in the West. His subsequent conduct, as we shall see, was so fully in accordance with that resolution that he came at last to be known as the white man's friend. At the battle of the Thames there was present aiding Tecumseh also, Saug-a-nash, or Billy Caldwell, who being the son of an Irish officer in the British service, and a Pottawatamie squaw, was entitled to both an English and an Indian name. He was a man of intelligence and education, having been edu- cated by the Jesuits of Detroit; and, at the time of kis death was head chief of the combined nation of Pottawatamies, Northern Illinois Fifty Years Ago. 9 Ottawas and Chippevvas. He was a Justice of the Peace at Chi- cago under Peoria county in 1826. Shabbonee had in his possession a paper which he highly valued being a certificate of Caldwell's given at Amherstburg (Fort Maiden) in 1816, in which he certifies to the fact that Shabbonee was with Tecumseh at the battle of the Thames, and concludes by saying, " I also have been witness to his intrepidity and courageous warfare on many occasions, and he showed a great deal of humanity to those unfortunate sons of Mars who fell into his hands. [Signed,] B. CALDWELL, Captain I. D. (Ind. Dept.) The celebrated Sac Chief, Black Hawk, was also present at the battle of the Thames, fighting on the side of the British.* FOOD FOR THE NOVELIST. In reading up the aboriginal and pioneer history of Northern Illinois, we have been struck with the abundant ma- terial it furnishes for the novelist. A series of historical roman- ces, rivaling in interest those of Cooper, could be woven out of its veritable history, from the times of Joliet and LaSalle and the Jesuit missionaries, to the close of the Black Hawk war. From Mackinaw to the mouth of the Illinois, and westward to the Mississippi, ample room is furnished for the movement of his characters, with picturesque and interesting localities on which to exercise his powers of description while every stream and * NOTE. Since writing the above we have received a new book of Mr. Matson's entitled "Pioneers of Illinois," in which he gives his authority for his version of the settlement of Pontiac on the Kankakee, and the place and the manner of his death. He also explaines at length the way in which the account of his death as given by Parkman and others, originated. Mr. Matson has paid great attention for many years to the aboriginal history of Illinois, and is we think entitled to thanks and credit as a careful historian. io Northern Illinois Fifty Years Ago. grove, every island, mound and bluff, is rich in traditionary lore. And then, what an endless variety of marked, peculiar, repre- sentative characters : Thefirst explorers and Jesuit missionaries ; the fur traders, French, English and American; Indian chiefs and braves; dusky beauties and captive white maidens; the later pioneers and Protestant missionaries; hunters and trappers; saints and sinners, holy men and incarnate devils all are waiting to be made immortal by the pen of genius; while innumerable wars and massacres, hunts, councils, treaties, payments, war dances, dog feasts, pow-wows, and all the peculiar customs, super- stitions and habits of savage and frontier life furnish an exhaust- less fund of incident and illustration. Have we no Cooper among us to utilize thie mine of historic wealth, and to transmute its rough ore into the burnished gold of romance? After the war of 1812, Shabbonee and Satig-a-nash, having lost all faith in British promises, visited General Cass at Detroit, and gave their formal adherence to the U. S. Government. Both, no doubt, regretted having espoused the British side. On the 24th of August, 1816, at St. Louis, a treaty was concluded by the United States with the Indians of the Northwest, represented by twenty three Pottawatamie, three Ottawa and two Chippewa Chiefs, by which these tribes ceded to Uncle Sam all their lands lying between the Illinois and Mississippi rivers, and also a large district west of Lake Michigan. Shabbonee was present and one of the signers of the treaty. In 1819 this tract was surveyed under the direction of U. S. Commissioners. Shabbonee aided the surveyors, and with his hunters supplied the corps with game. CASS AND THE WINNEBAGO WAR. In July, in the year of 1827, occurred another speck of war, called the Winnebago war, and sometimes " the Winnebago scare." Fort Dearborn was at this time without a Northern Illinois Fifty Years Ago. 11 garrison. It is no wonder then that the few inhabitants of Chicago were filled with alarm. Gen. Cass had gone to Green Bay by appointment to hold a treaty with the Winnebago and Menominee tribes, who failed to meet him there. He learned the cause to be a war with the whites on the upper Mississippi. He at once started on the journey around by the Fox, Wisconsin and the Mississippi rivers to St. Louis, from whence he despatched a steamer with troops to the relief of the whites. On his return by the way of the Illinois and Des Planes, he warned the set- tlers of their danger, and also met various Indian chiefs along the route, making them presents, and using every argument to keep them from aiding the hostiles. Among others ihe had an interview with Shabbonee. This Chief was heartily in accord with Gen. Cass, and used all his influence with his own and other bands to prevent them from taking the war path, Cass spent a night at Ottawa with Dr. David Walker, and in consequence of the news he brought a fort was at once com- menced on the south side of the river. Gov. Cass went OB up the river and over the divide through Mud lake, and down the Chicago river, awaking the echos along its classic banks with the boat song of the thirteen voyagers, led by Robert Forsythe, the Governor's Secretary. They gave the people of Chicago the first news of the outbreak. And here let us say, parenthetically, that this was not the Governor's first passage up the valley of the Illinois and Des Planes. In 1821, accompanied by Henry R, Schoolcraft and others, under the sanction of the U. S. Government, he made an excursion down the Wabash and Ohio and up the Mississippi to St. Louis, from which place he journeyed to Chicago for the pur- pose of holding a treaty with the chiefs and head men of the Ottawa, Chippewa and Pottawatamie tribes for a large tract of land in Michigan. After voyaging up the Illinois te Starved Rock they obtained horses and made the rest of the journey on 12 Northern Illinois Fifty Years Ago. horseback. They turned aside from their route and visited the junction of the Kankakee and Des Planes, for the especial pur- pose of examining the celebrated fossil tree that lies embedded (so much as is left of it) in the Des Planes near its mouth. This fossil is fully described by Schoolcraft in a memoir published by him at Albany in 1822. This is one of the most remarkable fossils ever discovered, of a vegetable origin. Specimens of it have been widely distributed. Gov. Cass obtained several at the time of this visit, one of which he sent to the University of Cambridge. It has been generally thought to have been a black walnut tree. Schoolcraft gives the size of the part exposed, length 51. feet and some inches, and the diameter at large end, three feet. Thomas Tousey, Esq., of Virginia, also visited this locality in 1822 and described the fossil. From this place they passed on over the country to Mount Joliet, and Schoolcraft wrote the description of this Mound, which we quoted in our sketch of the Mound. BIG FOOT. But we must return from this digression. One of the most interesting reminiscences of the early Chicago is related in the " Fergus series," by Col. Gurdon S. Hubbard, of Chicago, in which he narrates the visit of Shabbonee, in company with Saug- a-nash to the village of the Chief, Big Foot, at Big Foot (Geneva) Lake. Shabbonee had reached Chicago after his interview with Cass before him, and was the guest of his friend Caldwell, On learning the news brought by Gov. Cass, Col. Hubbard suggested to Caldwell and Shabbonee that they should visit Big Foot and endeavor to learn whether he intended to join the hostiles. From some circumstances Col. Hubbard was led to apprehend that this Chief was unfriendly to the whites. Accordingly Shabbonee and Caldwell at once set out on this mission. When they arrived in the vicinity of Big Foot village Caldwell con- Northern Illinois Fifty Years Ago. 13 cealed himself in ome thick^ timber, while Shabbonee entered the village. Sbabbonee was at once made a prisoner and charged with being a spy. This made it evident that Big Foot was an enemy to the whites, although he had but lately returned from receiving his payment from the United States at Chicago. The situation of Shabbonee was critical. But he was equal to the occasion. He affected great astonishment and indignation at his arrest, and the suspicions against him; and claimed that he had come to consult with Big Foot in reference to joining the Winne- bagoes. He avowed his conviction that the Winuebagoes were foolish and could not succeed in their schemes, and at the same time promised that if allowed to return to his people he would submit the matter to them, and if they consented he would join Big Foot. After talking all night Shabbonee was allowed to depart, accompanied by one of Big Foot's braves, to visit Shab- bonee's village. As they passed the spot where Caldwell was concealed Shabbonee managed, by talking loudly to his compan- ion, to convey to Caldwell sufficient information to guide him. He understood at once that he must not be seen, and he returned to Chicago alone by another route. Shabbonee con- trived, with consummate skill, to warn the people of Chicago of Big Foot's disposition, while his companion waited in conceal- ment, and then the two went n to Shabbonee's village, where his people were called together, and after much talk decided not to aid the hostiles. ALAEM AT CHICAGO. COL. HUBBARD TO THE RESCUE. The news that Shabbonee brought to Chicago of course increased the apprehensions of the citizens, and a consultation was speedily held as to the best measures in the emergency. It was decided that Col. Hubbard should at once start for Danville for aid to defend the post, although his prpseuce seemed equally neces- sary at Chicago, where most of the men were in his employ, and he i4 Northern Illinois Fifty Years Ago. had great influence with the Indians. But he was the only one well acquainted with the route and with all the settlers about Danville. He accordingly set out at once and made the journey with all possible speed, swimming the swollen rivers and riding all night. He reached the house of a Mr. Spencer, near Danville, the next day at noon, completely used up. Mr. Spencer immediately warned out the scattered settlers, appointing a rendezvous at Danville. The day following a company of 100 men, under an old frontier fighter named Morgan, was organized, and started immediately to the relief of Chicago, Col. Hubbard returning with them. Although compelled to swim the streams and wade the sloughs, they pushed on, and reached Fort Dearborn the seventh day after Mr. Hubbard had left it, to the great joy of the people. A re- organization was had, and a company, 160 strong, under Morgan, was now ready for Big Foot and all the Winnebagos. Fortunately, at the end of thirty days, news came of the defeat of the Winnebagos, and of their forming a treaty of peace with the commanding officer of the force that Gov. Cass had dispatched by river from St. Louis. And so the Winnebago scare was at an end. Shabbonee's course in thus counselling peace and favoring the whites gained for him the appellation of White Man's Friend. It was bestowed upon him in contempt by the hostiles, but it became his proudest title. FATHER WALKER. In 1823 that self-denying, earnest pioneer and preacher, Jesse Walker, received the appointment of missionary to the Indians from the Illinois conference of the Methodist Church. In pursuance of his duty as such missionary he came to Ottawa, where he is said to have built the first log cabin on the site of the present city in 1824. ftoi them Illinois Fifty Years Ago. 15 More than one hundred and fifty years had elapsed since the Jesuit father, Marquette, had established his mission of the ' Immaculate Conception," a few miles below that point. French sovereignty had been superseded by English, and the English again by American. Another race of Indians, too, at this time, held possession of Northern Illinois. The Illini, in the time of Marquette, so proud and numerous, had been conquered and almost annihilated by the combined Pottawatamie and Ottawa tribes, and there was hardly a vestige of the once flourishing and populous town of La Vantam, or of the Kas-kas-kia mission. The only traces of French enterprise or of Jesuit zeal were to be found in tradition and history. All Northern Illinois was still a part of the county of Fulton, and only here and there along the streams had a daring pioneer venture to build his cabin. The Indians were still in almost undisputed possession and looked upon a white man as an intruder, unless he came to buy their furs and peltries, and to supply them with trinkets, blankets, powder and hatchets, and the still more deadly "good-na-tosh."* Elder Walker was, at the first, somewhat disheartened by hia cold welcome. The Indians did not seem disposed to be friendly. One morning, while "spreading out his wants and fears before the Lord," he was surprised by a visit from a tall, finely-formed Indian, equipped with the weapons of a brave, and wearing the insignia of a chief, and whose countenance bore a kindly expression, and who introduced himself with the laconic words : " Me Shabbonee," at the same time giving the Elder a hearty hand-shake. The chief could speak but little English and the Elder was equally ignorant of Pottawatamie, so that there could be little intelligent conversation between them. But Elder Walker was at no loss to understand that he had at last met a friend, and that his prayers were already answered; and, if he had any lingering * Whisky. i6 Northern Illinois Fifty Years Ago. doubts as to the friendly intentions of his visitor, they were soon completely removed. Shabbonee left the cabin of the Elder, giving him to understand that he would return. Tke camp of the Chief was about a mile distant, and he soon reappeared, bearing upon his shoulders a quarter of venison and a wild turkey, which he laid at his feet. It was a welcome addition to the Elder's lean larder. He was also accompanied by a half-breed who could speak English, and by whose help the Elder made known his objects and wishes. Shabbonee expressed his disposition to aid him. MISSION ESTABLISHED ON THE FOX. Accordingly next day. under the guidance of Shabbonee and George Forqua (the interpreter), the Elder explored the country along the Fox and Illinois rivers, and located his mission on a little creek that empties into the Fox, and which received the name of Mission Creek. The spot selected was on Sec. 15 of T. 35, R. 5, to which also the name of Mission Township was subsequently given. Here the earnest missionary pioneer soon had a flourishing mission, consisting of a school house, a chapel, and two or three dwellings occupied by the Elder and his assistants. Here the mission flourished for a few years, having a large school of Indian children, and a large congregation of native worshipers on the Sabbath, Many professed conversion and were baptised. Shabbonee, although heartily seconding Walker's efforts for the elevation of his people, never became an avowed convert. In 1830 the chapel was burned down and the mission was removed to the vicinity of Plainfield, where he had already started a branch. James Walker, his son-in-law, and one of his assistants, had preceded ihim, and built Walker's mills, famous in the early days of Will ouhty. From Father Walker's advent to La Salle county up to the spring of 1832, settlers "squatted " along the Fox, the Illinois, Northern Illinois Fifty Years Ago. 17 the Du Page, and their tributaries, and at a few points along the Mississippi. But Northern Illinois was still comparatively a wilderness. But it was a beautiful wilderness, consisting largely of meadow-like, flower-decked prairies, with heavy forests skirting the streams, and forming here and there island groves, breaking in upon the ocean-like monotony of the sea of verdure The country looked as if it had been cultivated in some far past, so far, that the people and their dwellings, and all vestiges of their occupation had perished. The region had only been partly surveyed, and only some canal land had been offered for sale. There were no roads, and the only pathways were the Indian trails. To this statement we must make one exception. As early as 1822 the lead mines in the vicinity of Galena had begun to be worked by white men under the protection of troopa sent there by the war department, and in 1825 and 1826 there was a great rush of adventurers thither, not only from Southern Illinois, but from Tennessee and Kentucky ; not for permanent settlement but with the expectation of speedily realizing a fortune, and then returning to their homes. Many went thither in the spring and returned in the fall. Hence they received the name of suckers as their migrations synchronized with the movements of that well-known fish. The name was ultimately fastened exclusively upon the people of our State. This emigration to the lead mines had led to the opening, in 1827, of the only road in Northern Illinois, from Peoria to Galena. Along this road, at long intervals, pioneers had located for the purpose of keeping tavern in the rude style of the frontier, and soon a stage route was established between these two points. The most important trail was that known as the Sac trail, from Rock Island to Detroit. This trail was the only guide for emigrants west of Niles, when the writer came to Joliet in 1834. Another important trail was that from Chicago to Danville, 18 Northern Illinois Fifty Years Ago. which came to be called Hnbbard's trail, from the fact that Gurdon S. Hubbard and the men in his employ as the agent of the American Fur Company, passed back and forth upon it. He had a trading post at the crossing of the Iroquois. It was over this trail, under the guidance of Col, Hubbard, the company of volunteers went to the relief of Chicago iti 1827, as we have related, and from his stores at this trading post Colonel Hubbard supplied the deficiencies of the company in arms, ammunition and rations. These supplies had been brought to that point in batteaux by the way of the Des Planes, Kankakee and Iroquois rivers. But we presume that the citizens of Watseka find it much cheaper and quicker to get their supplies by railroad. For over this identical trail now passes the Chicago and Danville, or Eastern Illinois railroad, and just across the river from the old trading post is the pleasant town of Watseka,* the county seat of Iroquois. The Indians were uatural engineers, and the first pioneers good judges of town sites. Col. Hubbard ought to have a free pass over that railroad during his remaining days, which we hope may yet be many, although he has already seen more than any other man since the days of Methusaleh. Another important trail ran from the lead mines to Big Foot Lake, and thence to Chicago. The men of wealth and taste now build their handsome summer houses upon the shores of this beautiful sheet of water, but fifty years ago Big Foot and his tribe built their wigwams along its slopes, and fished in its pellucid waters. Perhaps the savage lifted as grateful a heart to the Great Spirit for all its beauty and abundance, as does his civilized successor; and perhaps he was as happy in his frail and rude lodge as his successor, who employs architects, and skilled artisans, to construct and adorn his palatial mansion. *So named from a beautiful Indian maiden, who lived thereabout ; whose interesting story we leave to the coming Cooper. Northern Illinois Fifty Years Ago. 19 SETTLEMENTS FIFTY YEARS AGO. At the breaking out of the Black Hawk war, fifty year* ago> the largest settlement, except at Chicago, north of the Illinois