THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY From the collection of Julius Doerner, Chicago Purchased, 1918. v.)4 'II II IK of EN (; i.AN !) AND WALivS OR /J) ELJINEA Til ON ^ TOrOG VPII I r AL . H 1 S TO RI C/U. rtlllM! DESCRIPTIVE. Voim WHO*"* THE BEAUTIES OF England and Wales: OR, TOPOGRAPHICAL, HISTORICAL, AND DESCRIPTIVE, OP EACH COUNTY. EMBELLISHED WITH ENGRAVINGS. VOL. XIV. BY FREDERIC SHOBERL. Britain high favour'd of indulseat heaven I Nature's anointed empress of the deep ! The nurse of merchants who can purchase crowns— Of Gallic lilies this eternal blast This terror of Armadas ! This small isle wide realm'd monarchs eye with awe, "Which says to their ambition's foaming waves. " Tlius far nor fartlier !" This sacred isle. Cut from the continent, that world of slaves; This temple built by heaven's peculiar care In a recess from the contagious world. With ocean pour'd around it for its guard. And dedicated long to liberty. That health, that strength, that bloom of civil life I yOUNQ. LONDON: PRINTED FOn J. HARRIS ; LONGMAN AND CO. ; J. WALKER J R. BALDWIN; SHERWOOD AND CO. ; J. AND J. CUNDEE J B. AKD R. CROSBY AND CO. j J. CUTHELL; J. AND J. RICHARDSON; CADHLL AND DAVlEl; C» AND J. RlVINOTONj AND O, COWIE AND CO. 1813. V. TO ARTHUR YOUNG, ESQ. A GENTLEMAN WHOSE INDEFATIGABLE EXERTIONS, DURING A LON^ AND ACTIVE LIFE, UAVE BEEN DIRECTED TO THE PROMOTION OF THE BEST INTEREeXS OF HIS COUNTRY, BY THE IMPROVEMENT OF ITS AGRICULTURE^ THIS VOLUME, Illustrative of THE HISTORY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF SUFFOLK, SURREY, AND SUSSEX, IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BY HIS OBLIGED AND OBEDIENT SERVANT, F. SHOBERL. THE BEAUTIES OF SUFFOLK. SITUATION AND EXTENT. Suffolk is bounded on the north by Norfolk, on the east by the German Ocean, on the south by Essex, from which it is di- vided by the river Stour, and on the we^ by Cambridgeshire. On Mr. Hodskinson*^ map of this countySmay be measured an oblong of almost unindented form, forty-seven miles long by twenty-seven broad. The land stretching beyond it in the north- east and north-west parts will more than compensate the deficiency in other quarters. This form indicates a surface of 1269 square miles, or 812,160 acres. In Templeman's Survey, he makes it only 1236 square miles ; but Mr. Arthur Young is of opinion that the superficial contents of Suffolk may be computed at about 800,000 acres. Division and population. — Its two grand divisions are, the franchise or liberty of Bury St. Edmund^s, and the body of the county, or guildable land, each of which furnishes a distinct grand jury for the county assizes. These are subdivided into twenty-one hundreds, comprehending 523 parishes. The hundreds, according to the return made in 1801, are as follow : Vol. XIV. B HUN- 2 SUFFOLK. HUNDREDS. HOUSES. Persons OCCUPATIONS. Inhabi- ted. By ho w many fa- Mii)ie<( occupied a "c Chiefly employ- ed in Agricul- ture. In trade, manufac- tures, or ii;.ndi- craft. In all ..ther occu pa- dons. Blackbourne... 3147 1572 1250 1795 1756 1505 1145 1680 860 1070 593 2579 1590 665 399 mi 1670 1089 / J D 1668 719 1360 2170 594 3944 2 J 98 1615 2348 2487 2347 1710 2176 1081 1506 638 3432 t 1986 855 619 1992 1913 1487 y /o 1987 1048 1648 2738 735 71 . 28 33 21 14 31 13 32 15 17 2 25 13 4 2 16 36 J 1 1 1 41 10 37 51 IS 18,685 10.773 7,384 12,133 13,299 8,384 8,549 10,894 5,708 7,259 2,616 18,483 10,042 4,300 2,946 9,578 9,409 7,457 4,982 10,037 7,655 1 1,277 3,283 3804 3857 1715 3557 4121 16-5 2525 4872 i486 2520 7436 7018 2760 1205 1273 2209 1666 2462 1 1 U 2045 2506 94 448 39 5393 1149 794 1562 1685 1571 842 1460 1537 774 165 - 3452 780 239 148 1664 703 491 A A 1 441 1810 771 4198 1810 625 9588 5391 4875 6631 6083 5190 4643 3877 1933 3959 2008 8010 5947 2013 1525 5362 7043 3841 i5w<> 1 6190 1924 3365 8733 2624 Hartistnere .... Plome^gate ... Thedwestry ... Bosmere and ) Clay don... ) Cariford Mutford and > Lotiiingland ) Town of Bury 30,253 43,481 552 210,431 55,744 34,064 113692^ In order to obtain an accurate knowledge of the population of Suf- folk, Mr. Arthur Young took the trouble, in 1796, to write to all the rectors and vicars in the county, requesting the births and burials from their registers for the twenty preceding years, with an enume- ration of the houses and people. To above four hundred letters, he received two hundred and sixty answers. These enabled him to form • The last ten hundred arc incorporated. t In the original here is an error; it is entered 1086, but by turning to the detail it appears to be 1986> SUFFOLK. form a very satisfactory taLle -which afforded the following general results: From 1776 to 1785 From 1786 to 1795. Births, 29,684 33,011 Deaths, 22,800 20,259 Excess of Births, 6,884 12,752 From this comparison the natural inference is, that the popula- tion of the eounty must either have much increased, or that a con- siderable emigration from it is constantly going forward. Both these positions may, we think, safely be assumed as facts. Climate. — The climate of Suffolk is unquestionably one of th« driest in the kingdom ; but the frosts are severe, and the north- east winds in spring are sharp and prevalent. Upon the whole, however, the climate of this county must be reckoned favorable j and it cannot but be extremely salubrious, to judge from the mor- tality which, upon an average of ten years, appears to have been to the existing population as one to fifty-four, while the number of births was as one to thirty. Soil. — It may be asserted that not a county in the kingdom contains a greater diversity of soil, or more clearly discriminated than Suffolk. A strong loam on a clay-marl bottom, predominates through the greatest parts, extending from the south-westero extremity at Wratting Park to North Cove near Beccles. Its northern boundary stretches from Dalham by Barrow, little Saxham near Bury, Rougham, Pakenham, Ixworth, Honing- ton, Knattishal, and then in a line near the Waveney to Bec- cles and North Cove ; but every where leaving a slope and vale of rich friable loam of various breadths, along the side of the river. It then turns southward, to Wrentham, Wangford, Blith- ford, Holton, Bramfield, Yoxford, Saxmundham, Campsey Ash, Woodbridge, Culpho, Bramford, Hadleigh, and following the high lands on the west side of the Bret, to the Stour, is thence bounded by the latter river to its source, leaving all along it a very rich tract •f slope and vale. It must not be supposed that in so large an ex- B 2 tent 4 stirroLK. tent tlicre is no variation ; but it may be observed as a general rule, that wherever there are rivers in this space, the slopes descending to the vales through which they run, and the bottoms themselves are of a superior quality, being in general composed of rich friable loams ; and this holds even with regard to many inconsiderable streams which fall into the larger rivers. The cliief part of this district would commonly, but improperly, be denominated clay, for, upon analysis, the soil has been found to be much more im- pregnated with sand than its texture would seem to indicate. Lying as it does upon a retentive clay-marl bottom, it may, from its wetness, be properly termed strong or clayey loam. This dis- trict of rich loam is much less clearly discriminated. It compre- hends the space left by the preceding district between the rivers Stour and Orwell, and a tract of coast a few miles in breadth be- tween the latter and the Deben. It is composed of a vein of fri- able, putrid, vegetable mould, more inclined to sand than clay, and of extraordinary fertility. The best is about Walton, Trim- ley, and Felixtow, where, for depth and richness, much of it can scarcely be exceeded by any soils found in other parts of the county, and would rank high among the best in England. In the line from Ipswich to Hadleigh, it varies considerably, in many places approaching sand, and in many places being much strong- er. The general complexion, however, of the whole of Samford Hundred is that of good loam. Considering only the real quatity of the soil, the whole of the maritime district of this county, with the exception just mentioned, must be pronounced sandy ; towards the north much inclining to loamy sands, and in others to sandy loams ; but so broken, di- vided, and mixed with undoubted sands, that one term must be applied in a general view to the whole. Tliis district, Mr. Arthur Young looks upon as one of the best cultivated in England, and it is also one of the most profitable. Few districts in the county, if any, abound with more wealthy farmers, or contain a greater proportion of occupying proprietors, possessing from one hundred to three and four hundred pounds a year. The inferior stratum of this I SUFFOLK. 5 this district varies considerably, but in general consists of sand, chalk, or crag-, and in some parts of marl and loam. The crag is a singular mixture of cockle and other shells, found in great masses in various parts of the county, from Dunwich, quite to the Or- well, and even across that river to Wolverston park. It is both red and white, but generally of the former color, aad the shells so broken as to resemble sand. There are pits to be seen, from which great quantities of it have been taken to the depth of fifteen and twenty feet, for improving heaths; but on lands long in tillage, the use is discontinued, as it is found to make the sands blow more. The western sand district comprehends the whole north-western angle of tiie county, except the corner to the left of a line drawn fi'om Brandon to the conflux of the rivers Ouse and Lark. It con- tains few spots of such rich sands as are found on the coast, but abounds with warrens and poor sheep-walks. Parts of this tract, however, partake of the character of loamy sand ; for instance, the whole angle to the right of a line from Barrow to Uonington, in which no blow ing or even very light sand is found. A more striking exception, though of smaller extent, is found at Mildenhall, in an open field of arable Land, dry, yet highly fertile and friable, without being loose. The under stratum throughout almost all the district, is a more or less perfect chalky at various depths ; and, according to the eminent agricultui'al writer already quoted, it may be received as a rule that, excepting the low vales contiguous to rivers, the whole of this part of the county is proper for sainfoin. The fen district is confined to tiie corner cut off from the preced- ing. Its surface, to the depth of from one foot to six, is the common peat bog. In some places it is black, and solid enough to yield a considerable quantity of ashes in burning ; but in others more loose, puffy, reddish, and consequently of inferior quality. The under stratum is generally a white clay or marl. Part of these fens is underwater, though subject to a tax for drainage, which has Leen attempted, but failed. In Burnt Fen, however, a late act of jparliament for improving the banks, has been put in execution B 3 with 6 SUFFOLK. with such success, that 14,000 acres are completely drained and under cultivation.* Rivers. — Suffolk is a well watered county ; its boundaries to the south and north are rivers navigable to a considerable height, and it is every where intersected with streams, which, if the prac- tice of irrigation were more generally adopted, would be productive of incalculable benefit. The Stour rises on the west side of the county, on the borders of Cambridgeshire, and first running southward to Haverhill, then taks an eastern direction, and forms throughout its whole course the boundary between Suffolk and Essex. It passes by Sudbury, and after being joined by the Bret, and other smaller streams, -re- ceives the tide at Manningtree. Here increasing considerably iii breadth, it presents a beautiful object at high- water to the fine seat and grounds of Mistly Thorn, the effect of which, however, is con- siderably diminished by its muddy channel and contracted stream during the ebb. It meets the Orwell from Ipswich, and their united waters, having formed the port of Harwich, discharge themselve* into the German Ocean, between that town and Land- guard Fort The Gipping has its source in the centre of the county near Stowmarket; Running in a south-east direction, it waters Ips- wich, and assuming below that town the name of the Orwell, pro- ceeds to mee. the Stour opposite to Hai-wich. The banks of this river are in general picturesque, especially when it becomes an estuary below Ipswich, to which place it is navigable for ships of considerable burden. The banks there rise into pleasing eleva- tions, beautifully fringed with wood, and adorned with several fine seats. The Deben, which has its source near Debenham, takes a south-eastern direction, and passing by Woodbridge falls into the German Ocean, a few mjles to the north of the two preceding rivers. The * Young's Gen, View of the Agriculture of Suffolk, p. 6. SUFFOLK. 7 The Aid rises near Frainlingharn, and runs south-east to Aid- borough, where having approached to wiUiiu a very small distance of the sea, it suddenly takes a southern direction, and discharges itself below Orford into the German Ocean. The Blythe has its source near Saxfield, in the hundred of Hoxne, whence running east-north-east to Ualesworth, it then proceeds almost due east to Blythburgh and Southwold, where it falls into the sea. The Larke rises in the south-western part of the county, passes Bury and Mildenhall, and joins the Great Ouse not far from the latter town. The Waveney and Little Ouse have already been mentioned in treating of Norfolk. The former, after running fifty miles to- wards the sea in an eastern direction, and approaching its very shores, is opposed by a rising ground, which gives it an abrupt direction almost due north. This leads it to the river Yar ; and though its waters are suflicient to give name to a liarbour of its own, it merely assists as a secondary river in deepening and en- larging the harbour of Yarmouth. The meadows through which it passes with an even and gentle course, are supposed to be among the richest in England. Hither numerous herds of starved cattle from the highlands of Scotland find their way, and soon growing fat, continue their journey to supply the markets of the capital.* Roads and canals. — The roads in every part of this county are excellent, the improvements made in them of late yeai's being almost inconceivable : in most directions, indeed, the travellei* finds cross ones equal to turnpike-roads. The only canal in Suffolk, which will be noticed in another place, runs from Ipswich to Stowmarket. Woods. — Tlie woods of Suffolk scarcely deserve mentioning. The strong loams formerly contained considerable quantities of large oak ; but these have here, as in every other part of the king- B 4 dom, * Gilpin's Tour through Cambridge, Norfolk, Sulfblk, &c. 8 SUFFOLK. dom, been much lessened, and the succession that is coming on hears no proportion to the growth tliat preceded. In general planting is undertaken more with a view to ornament than profit. Wastes. — Though Suffolk must be reckoned among the earliest enclosed of the English counties, very large tracts yet want the benefit of this first and greatest of all improvements. Some mo- dern inclosures have been made by act of parliament, but the ex- amples are not well followed, though the success has been great. The wastes of this county are calculated by Mr. Young,* from all the information which he could obtain, and a careful comparison of various data, to amount to nearly, if not quite 100,000 acres, or an eighth of the whole, comprehended under the terms sheep- walk, common, warren, &c. " None of these,'' adds the writer just mentioned, " are strictly speaking absolutely waste, if by that term is understood land yielding nothing. I inclnde all lands un- cultivated, which would admit of a very great improvement, not always profitable to the tenant, who may, on a small capital, make a great interest per cent, by a warren, for instance, but in every case to the public. Many farmers think sheep-walks necessary for their flocks, which is very questionable. They are imdoubtedly useful ; and if they were converted into corn, tlie number of sheep kept upon a farm might in a few cases decline ; but good grass adapted to the soil would be abundantly more productive for the flock. Whoever has viewed the immense wastes that fill almost the whole country from Newmarket to Thetford, and to Gastrop Gate, and which arc found between Woodbridge and Orford, and thence one way to Saxmundham, not to mention the numerous heaths that are scattered every where, must be convinced that their improvement for grass would enable the county to carry many thousands of sheep more than it does at present." The following recent inclosures, with the year in which they were made, and the quantity of land brought into cultivation, are mentioned by Mr. Young. f Coney * Yonng's View of the Agriculture of Suffolk, p. 168. t Ibid. 38—44. SUFFOLK. 9 Coney Weston - - - - 1777 - - - 12(50 acres Barningham 1798 - - - 580 Pakefield and Gisleham - 1798 - - - 330 Wellington 1799 - - - 860 Barton Mills - - - - ... 800 Tuddcnham - - - - - - - ir>00 Property. — The state of property in this county may be consi- dered beneficial in its division. The largest estate is supposed not to exceeed 8,5001. a year ; there are three or four others which rise above 5,0001. and about thirty others of 3,0001. and upwards. Below this standard there are many of all sizes : but a circumstance which strongly indicates the prosperity of tliis por- tion of the kingdom, is the great number of yeomen, or farmers occupying their own lands, of a value rising from 1001. to 4001. a year. These, as Mr. Young emphatically remarks, are " a most valuable set of men, who having the means, and the most powerful inducements to good husbandry, carry agriculture to a high degree of perfection.'* The great mass of the county is freehold property ; but copy- holds are numerous, and some of them extensive. The farms in Suffolk must, in a general light, be reckoned large ; and to this circumstance chiefly may be attributed the good husbandry so commonly found in the county. In the district of strong wet loam there are many small farms from 201. to 1001. a year; but these are intermixed with others rising from 1501. to 3001. and even higher. In the sand districts they are much larger, from 3001. to 8001. or 9001. Here owing not a little to these large occupa- tions in the hands of a wealthy tenantry, agriculture is carried to great perfection. The usual terms for leases are seven, fourteen, and twenty-one years. Few counties have been more improved by the latter than Suffolk. By means of such leases, whole tracts in the sandy dis- tricts have been converted from warren and sheep-walks into pro- ductive inclosures. They have caused large tracts to be liollow- ilvained ; and occasioned an improved cultivation in almost every respect. 10 SUFFOLK. respect, where it depended on the expenditure of larg-er sums than are laid out by farmers unable or unwilling to make such exer- tions. Mr. Young* gives the following estimate of the total rental of the county, founded upon the division of it according to the soil : 30,000 acres, fens, at 4s 6, OOOl. 46,666f rich loam, at 18s 42,0001. 156,666|saiid, at \2s 93,9991. 1 13,333i do. at 6s 33,9991. 453,333^ strong loam, at 16s 362,6661. 800,000 538,6641. Buildings — On a survey of the buildings in general of this eounty, the neglect of elegance and convenience in those of gen- tlemen of a certain property , as well as in farm-houses, cannot fail to strike the observer. The latter, indeed, are mucli im- proved within the last twenty or thirty years, but even at present they are too often built of lath and plaister, which decaying in a short time, cause repairs to be so heavy a deduction from the re- ceipts of an estate, t Though some individuals have most laudably distinguished themseb. es by building neat and comfortable cottages for the la- boring poor, the small profit which the rent affords, has prevented this practice Irom being frequent. The cottages of Suffolk in ge- neral are bad habitations, deficient in contrivance for warmth and convenience, the state of repair bad, and the want of gardens too common. The general rent of them is from two to three pounds, with or without a small garden. State of the Poor.— The amount of money levied in this county in 1803, for the maintenance of the poor, was 149,6461. being * General View of tlio Agricullure of Suffolk, p. $0. t The extent to which tliis evil operates in the eastern part of the kingdom is scarcely credible. Mr. Yoang informs us, that on one Catate of aboat 1,5001, a year, the repairs amounted in eleven years to above 4,0001. SUFFOLK. 11 being at the rate of 4s. lO^d in the pound. The most singular cir- cumstance relating to the poor in Suffolk, is the incorporation of various hundreds for e^recting and supporting houses of industiy. 'the local inconvenience and distress arising from the number of poor, and the expence of maintaining them, occasioned many dis- tricts in the county to apply to parliament for the power of incor- porating themselves, and of regulating the employment, and main- tenance of the poor by certain rules not authorized by the existing poor laws. Several acts of parliament accordingly passed, incor- porating those districts, where the poor have since been governed and supported according to the power given by such acts. The result of an actual examination of these institutions by T. Rug- gles, Esq. is given by Mr. Young in the following terms :* *' In the incorporated hundreds, the houses of industry strike one in a different light from the cottages of the poor. They are all built in as dry, healthy, and pleasant situations, as the vici- nity affords. The offices, such as the kitchen, brewhouse, bake- house, buttery, laundry, larder, cellars, are all large, convenient, and kept extremely neat ; the work-rooms are large and well aired ; and the sexes are kept apart, both in hours of work and recreation. The dormitories are also large, airy, and conveniently disposed ; separate rooms for children of each sex, adults and aged. The married have each a separate apartment to themselves ; mothers with nurse children are also by themselves. The infirmaries are large, convenient, airy, and comfortable ; none without fire- places. All the houses have a proper room for the necessary dis- pensary ; and most of them a surgeon's room besides. The halls in all are large, convenient, well ventilated with two or more fire- places, and calculated, with respect to room, for the reception of full as many as the other conveniences of the house can contain. " The chapels are all sufficiently large, neat, and plain ; several of them rather tending to grandeur and elegance. There were two houses which had no chapels : one of them made use of a room ample enough for the congregation, properly fitted up, and kept very ♦ Cenewl View of the Agriculture of SufFoll, p. 251. 12 SUFFOLK* very neat ; the other attended the parish church. The apartments for the governor were in all the houses large and conveniently disposed. In one or two these apartments were rather more spa- cious and elegant than necessary. There are also convenient store- houses and warehouses for keeping the manufactures of the house, the raw materials, clothing, &c. for the use of the inhabitants. *' The land belonging to the houses, and the gardens in parti- cular are calculated for producing a sufficient quantity of vegeta- ble diet, so necessary to the health, as well as agreeable to the palate of the inhabi tants. " In general the appearance of all the houses of industry in the approach to them, somewhat resembles what we may suppose of the hospitable large mansions of our ancestors in those times when the gentry of the country spent their rents among their neighbors. " The interior of these houses must occasion a most agreeable surprise to all those who have not before seen poverty but in its miserable cottage, or more miserable work-house. Their neat- ness, which had so pleasing an effect on the eye, was the cause also that the other senses were not disgusted by that constant at- tendant on collected filth and foul air, a noisome stench, as delete- rious to human life, as it is in genciral nauseating to those who accidentally breathe such an atmosphere. " The practice of frequent white-washing, does much toward preserving the air of these houses sweet and wholesome ; but the constant attention of those who perform the offices of the house is absolutely necessary; and even that is insufficient, unless the halls, working rooms, and dormitories, have the external air admitted through the windows, whenever it can be done with safety to the inhabitants with respect to catching cold. The neatness and cl manliness which prevailed in their halls at the hour of refection, were also laudably observable; most of these houses of industry being visited at the hours of breakfast, dinner, or supper." Mr. Ruggles, who furnished the preceding observations on the houses of industry, proceeds to examine three important ques- tions : ]. Have SUFFOLK. 11 1. Have these institutions amended the morals of the poor? 2. Have they tended to diminish the hurthen of expense to soci- ety attending their relief and maintenance ? 3. Have they increased, or do they tend to decrease the chance of human life ? The two first questions he answers unequivocally in the affirma- tive, supporting his opinion by facts j* and with regard to the third, he says : — That it is not on experience determined in their favor also, arises from the difficulty of requiring every infor- mation necessary to its investigation ; and from the inability of the writer to apply with precision, and certainty of proof, such facts as he had obtained. He still believes that this point will, whenever it falls under the pen of a more accurate inquirer and able political arithmetician, conduce also to the recommendation of district incor- porated houses of industry, as tending to increase the chance of life and population." It appears from the list in the office of the clerk of the peace for the county, that those admirable institutions, benefit clubs, flou- rish considerably in Suffijlk. The number of these clubs amount to 219, containing 7709 members. Agriculture. — It is no small praise for the farmers of this county to assert, that they are little, if at all, behind their north- ern neighbors in the improved cultivation of their lands ; and in- deed several beneficial practices are to be observed among the former to which the latter are still strangers. To point out these peculiarities, will be one of the principal objects of this article. Though the dairy district of Suffbik is extensive, and the num- ber of sheep great, yet the arable part of the county is by far the most considerable. One of the greatest improvements in the manage- ment of arable lands, particularly if they be of a strong wet nature, was, till very lately, confined to this county. It consists in avoid- ing all, or nearly all, spring plowings. Enlightened cultivators have extended this system to autumnal sowings : they scarify and scuffle, rake, clear, and burn, till the surface is fine enough for the drill to work, and then leave it till rain comes for drilling. This practice 14 Sl&FFOLK* practice not only obviates many difficulties to which the farmer wa< exposed by the method formerly pursued, but by leaving a firm bottom for the roots of wheat, it has precluded the common malady of root-fallen crops." This general rejection of tillage by the plough, whenever circumstances permit, I consider," says Mr. Young,* " as one of the greatest, if not the greatest improvement in modern husbandry. It has changed the face of the greatest part of this county, and will change the face of ot hers as fast as it is introduced with skill and intelligence." In consequence of the adoption of this system, drilling has become very general, especially upon clay land ; and appears likely to spread to every part of the county. Dibbling is also very common. The management of the arable land, and the courses of crops, diflfer essentially, in the four distinct soils of which Suffolk con- sists. In the strong soils, the more general course includes sum- mer fallow as the common preparation for the rotation of corn- products, on the principle that when once given, the farmer will be enabled to omit it at the second return, and even at the third also, by means of clover, tares, pease, &c. This principle governs many variations, but where sufficient manure can be procured, the best course is as follows: 1. Fallow. 2. Wheat. 3. Beans. 4. Barley. 5. Clover. 6. Wheat. On the rich loam and sand, the rotat ion called the Norfolk hus- bandry is very generally introduced. It is this ; 1. Turnips. 2. Barley, 3. Clover, 4. Wheat. On the sand districts, the management differs according to the badness of the soil, but it is uniform in one feature, that turnips are every where the preparation for both corn and grass. After them barley is generally sown, and grass seeds succeed, but with variations. In Samford Hundred, where the farmers are excel- lent managers, their course is : 1. Turnips. 2. Barley. 3. Tre- foil and ray-grass. 4. Peas dibbled. 5. Barley. In the fenny part of the county, the method generally pursued, is to sow cole-seed on one plowing, after paring and burning, then ♦ General View of the Agriculture of Suffolk, p. 70. SUFFOLK. then oats twice in sttccession ; with the last of these tljey lay down with ray-grass and clover for six or seven years, then pare and burn, and repeat the same husbandry. The crops commonly cultivated in Suffolk are : wheat, barley, oats, rye, beans, pease, buck-wheat ; which, on the very poorest sands, is more common tlian in many other parts of England, and is for such soils a very valuable crop ; tares ; cole-seed, one of the principal productions of the fen-district, and which, as food for sheep, exceeds turnips both in regard to fattening and milk ; tur* nips, clover, trefoil, white clover, and sainfoin. The crops not commonly cultivated consist of hops, cabbages* carrots, lucerne, chicory, potatoes, and hemp. The cultivation of hops, introduced into England in the reigil of Henry VIII. seems to have been early attended to in this county. Bullein, who wrote his Bulwarke of Defence in the middle of the sixteenth century, mentions their growing at Brn- siard , near Framlingham, and in many other places. The same writer, in his Government of Health, observes, that " though there cometh many good hops from beyond sea, yet it is known that the goodly stilles and fruitful grounds of England do bring forth unto man's use, as good hops as groweth in any place in this world, as by proof I know in many places in the countie of Suffolke, whereas they brew their beere with the hops that groweth upon their own grounds." From the manner in which Tusser, who was a Suffolk farmer about the same time, mentions them, and the frequent directions which he gives respecting their management, it may be inferred, that almost evei*y person who had a proper spot, cultivated some at least for his own use. Tliis crop, however, is very little cultivated at present in Sufiblk, except at Stowmarket, and in \\s neighborhood, wher6 there are about 200 acres. In regard to cabbages, Mr. Young observes, that the heavy part of Suffolk is the only district in England, wliere, to his know- ledge, their culture is established among many common farmers. It is, however, of late years considei-ably declined, from the idea t that 16 SUFFOLK. that this plant exhausts the ground, an opinion which that cele- brated agriculturist thinks founded on ill management. The cultivation of carrots in the Sandlings, or district within the line formed by Woodbridge, Saxmuudham, and Orford, but extending to Leiston, is one of the most interesting objects in the agriculture of Britain. From Norden's Surveyors' Dialogue, it appears that carrots were commonly cultivated in this district two centuries ago ; a fact wliich demonstrates how long such practices may be confined to the same spot, and how much time is required to extend them. For many years they were chiefly raised for the London market ; but other parts of the kingdom having rivalled Suffolk in this supply, they are now principally cultivated as food for draught horses. It has been found by long experience, that this food keeps those animals in much finer condition, and enables them to go through all the work of the season better than corn and hay. For horses that are ridden fast, they are not equally proper. They are also found to be of the greatest use for fattening bul- locks, and feeding cows, sheep, and swine. The expense of an acre is about eight guineas, and the value from twelve to fifteen. The merit of introducing chicory into the husbandry of England, belongs to Mr. Young, a native and inhabitant of this county. The tract in which hemp is chiefly found, extends from Eye to Beccles, and is about ten miles in breadth. It is cultivated both by farmers and cottagers, though it is very rare to see more than five or six acres in the hands of one person. This is an article of considerable importance, on account of the employment afforded by the various operations which it requires. In the above-menti- oned district, indeed, the poor are entirely supported by this ma- nufacture. The Suffolk hemp is superior in strength and quality to that of Russia ; the cloths woven from it are of various degrees of fineness and breadth, from lOd. a yard, half ell wide, to 4s. and 4s. 6d. ell wide. It also makes very good huckaback for towels, and common table-cloths. The low-priced hemps are a general wear for servants, husbandmen, and laboring manufacturers ; those from 18d. to 2s, a yard, for, farmers and tradesmen; while the finer SUFFOLk. 17 finer sorts from 2s. 6d. tb 3s. 6d. are preferred by many gentle- men for strength and warmth to other linen. Saffron was formerly cultivated to a considerable extent in Suf- folk. This oriental plant was first grown in England in the reign of Edward III. and was much used by our ancestors. In 1366, no less than eighteen pounds of saffron were consumed in the house- hold of Margaret, Countess of Norfolk, at Framlingham Castle, in this county. It long contimied to be a considerable article of cook- ery, as well as medicine ; but from the revolution in manners and fashions, its use has greatly decreased. It was chiefly raised m Norfolk, Suffolk, Essex, and Cambridgeshire, though now its cul- ture is confined chiefly to the last. Several pieces of land in this county are still named from it : at Fornham St. Genevieve, is a piece called the Saffion Yard ; another at Great Thurlow, tiie Saffron Ground; and a piece of glebe land near Finningham Church-yard, is denominated the Saffron Pans, or Panes, probably from the slips or beds in which the plants were set. Among the manures employed by the Suffolk farmers, the spe- cies called crag may be noted as peculiar to this county. It is composed of dry powdered shells, and formerly produced a very great improvement in that part of the maritime district called the Sandlings, south of Woodbridge, Orford, and Saxmundham, by being spread on the black ling heaths with which that whole tract was formerly covered. Its effect, however, like that of lime, has often been found to decline on repeating the application. Irrigation, one of the greatest improvements in modern agricul- ture, is very little practised in Suffolk, where large tracts of poor and unproductive arable land are to be seen in almost every parish, at least in tlie vicinity of every stream, below the level in- which water might be made to flow. Some spirited individuals, indeed, have within these few years, sent for men from other counties, where the practice is understood, to irrigate their meadows ; and it is sincerely to be wished that their example may be generally followed. If Suffolk has not acquired such high reputation for its Uve stock. Vol. XIV. C as 18 sffFFOLk. as some other counties, this must be ascribed rather to the 'want of attention in the breeders, than to the want of a capability of improvement in the aninials themselves. The cows have long- been celebrated for the al)undance of their milk, which, consi-* dering their size, and the quaiitity of food, far exceeds the produce of any other race in the island. Though the peculiar breed of this county is apread all over it, yet a tract of twenty miles by twelve, is more cs-pecially the seat of the dairies. This space^^ is comprehended within a line drawn from the parish of Codden- Iiam to Ashbocking, Otley, Charlsfield, Letheringham, Hatcheston, Parham, Framlingham, Cransford, Bruisyard, Badingham, Sibton, Hevenitigham, Cookly, Linstead, Metfield, Wethersdale, Fres- singfield, Wingfield, Hoxne, Brome, Thrandeston, Gislingham, Finningham, Westrop, Wyverston, Gipping, Stonham, Greetings and again to Coddenham. The cows of Suffolk are universally polled, as the farmers sell all the calves that would have horns, reserving only such as have none for stock. The size is small, few rising, when fattened, to fifty stone, at fourteen pounds each. The cha/racteristics of this breed are :— a clean throat, with little dewlap ; a thii^' clean snake head ; thin legs j a very large car- case ; a rib tolerably springing from the centre of the back, but w ith a heavy belly ; back-bone ridged ; chine, thin and hollow ; loin narrow; udder large, loose, and creased when empty; milk- veins remarkably large, and rising in knotted puffs to the eye; a general habit of leanness ; hip-bones high and ill-covered, and scarcely any part of the carcase so formed, and covered as to please the eye accustomed to fat beasts of the finer breeds. It i» nevertheless remarked, tliat many of them fatten remarkably well, and their flesh is of a fine q,uaUty. The best milkers are in gene- ral red, brindled, or of a yellowish cream color. The quantity of milk yielded by one of these cows is from five to eight gallons a day. Sofne years since cabbages were universally cultivated as an article of food for cows, far superior to hay, but this practice, as elsewhere observed, is now on the decline. Another peculiarity ill the Suffolk: management,, is that of tying up these animals in the^ SUfFOLK. 19 the fields, without house, shed, or roof, to cover them. A rough manger is formed with rails and stakes ; the cows are tied to posts, abo«t three feet from each other, and have at their heads a screen of faggots. Litter is regularly given, and the dung piled up be- hind. For cows before calving this is found better than suffering them to range at will ; the shelter of the hedge and dung keeping them sufficiently warm without any cover. The quantity of butter computed to be sent from Suffolk to London annually, is about 40,000 firkins. In those parts of the county where the cattle do not consume all the turnips, it is a common practice to bay black cattle at fairs from north country drovers for the purpose. Some of these are Irish, others Welch, but the greater part Scotch, of different breeds. These, after being fattened, generally continue their journey to supply the markets of the metropolis. The Norfolk, or, as it might with greater propriety be denomi- nated, the Suffolk breed of sheep, since the most celebrated flocks are found about Bury, is diffused over almost every part of the county. For the quality of the mutton, as long as cool weather lasts ; for tallow ; for fatting at an early age ; for the fineness of the wool, which is the third in price in England ; for endurance of hard driving ; for hardiness and success as nurses, this race is deservedly esteemed. These excellencies are however counter- balanced by their voracity, a want of tendency to fatten, resulting from an ill-formed carcase, and a restless and unquiet disposition ; a texture of flesh that will not keep in hot weather so long as that of South Down sheep, and a loose ragged habit of wool. In conse- quence of these bad qualities, the breed has been nearly changed in the last twenty-five years, the South Down now being every where prevalent. This new race was unquestionably introduced by Arthur Young, Esq. a fact not depending upon any present assertion respecting what was done many years ago, but published at the time in the Annals of Agriculture. They afterwards passed into Norfolk, in consequence of Mr. Young's recommenda* tion of them to the late Earl of Orford j and thus to the exert! on» C2 of 20 SUFFOLK. of this gentleman vras owing the establishment of a breed of sheep throughout two counties, to the benefit of several thousands of farmers, and to the advantage of their landlords, from that *ise of rent which has since taken place. In regard to the number of sheep in the whole county, Mr. Yoimg calculates, that the sand districts have one sheep to two acres ; the rich and strong loams, one to four acres, and the fen district one to six acres. According to these proportions the number will be : Sand 270,000 acres sheep 135,000 Loam 500,000 100,000 Fen 30,000 5,000 240,000 Suffolk is not less celebrated for its breed of horses, than for its cows. They are found in the highest perfection in the maritime district extending to Woodbridge, Debenham, Eye, and Lowe» stoff* : but the prime of this breed were some years since to be met with upon the Sandiings, south of Woodbridge and Orford. About half a century ago a considerable spirit of breeding and of drawing team against team, prevailed among the farmers of that country, one of whom is mentioned by Mr. Young as having drawn fifteen horses for 1500 guineas. The horses of this old breed were in some respects the reverse of handsome, of a sorrel color, very low in the fore-end, with a large ill-shapen head, slouching ears, a great carcase, short legs and short back. Their power of drawing was very great ; but they could trot no mor© than a cow. Of late years, by aiming at coach-horses, the breeders have produced a more handsome, light and active ani- mal, which, if fairly compared with the great black horse of the midland counties, will, it is presumed by competent judges, beat the latter in useful draft, that of the cart and plough. Another peculiarity, besides tlie feeding of horses on carrots, may be noticed in the mode of treating these animals in Suffolk, Tliis is, that in the eastern districts tliey are never permitted to 9 remain SUFFOLK. 21 remain in the stable at night; being turned out into a yard well littered with straw, and supplied with plenty of good sweet oat or barley straw to eat, but never clover or hay. With this treat- ment, a hoi*se never has swelled legs, and seldom any other ail- ment : he is kept in as fine condition, and will hold his work seve- ral years longer than one confined in tlie stable. Of the hogs of Suffolk it may be observed, that the short white breed of the cow district has great merit. These animals are well made, with thick, short noses, small bone, and light offals, but are not quite so prolific as some worse made breeds. With poultry this county is extremely well supplied, and espe- cially with turkies, for which it is almost as celebrated as Norfolk. Great quantities of pigeons are reared in the numerous pigeon- houses, in the open field part of the county, bordering on Cam- bridgeshire. Bees are very little attended to in general ; though in the neigh ~ borhood of uncultivated lands they would probably admit of a cou- siderable increase. Suffolk contains many rabbit-warrens, especially in the western . sand district. One of them, near Brandon, is estimated to return above 40,000 rabbits in a year. Of late years, however, consider- able tracts occupied by them have been plowed up, and converted into arable and pasture land. Among the implements of agriculture peculiar to Suffolk, or invented and first employe^ in this county, may be reckoned, the Suffolk swing plough; the Horse-rake for clearing spring-corn stubbles ; the new drill-plough invented by Mr. Henry Balding, of Mendham, who was ten years in bringing it to perfection, at a considerable expense ; threshing mills on the improved construc- tion of Mr. Asbey, of Blithborough ; and the extirpator, or scalp- plough, a machine for destroying weeds, and clearing plowed lands for seed, invented by Mr. Hayward, of Stoke Ash. A gen- tleman of this county has also contrived a moveable stage for building the upper parts of stacks of hay or corn, and which may be equally well applied to other useful purposes. C 3 To 22 SUFFOLK. To agricultural societies, which in other parts of the kingdom have been productive of great and extensive benefit, Suffolk is perhaps less indebted than any other county. The only institution of this kind, is the Melford Society, which meets alternately at Bury and Melford. On its first establishment, some of the mem- bers read memoirs of experiments, which appeared in the Annals of Agriculture ; but for some years this has been dropped. A few premiums were offered, but never claimed, for which reason they have likewise been discontinued. Commerce and manufactures. — The commerce and manu- factures of Suffolk are inconsiderable in comparison with those of many other counties of England ; and even those are, from various causes, upon the decline. The imports are the same as in all the other maritime counties i and corn and malt are the principal exports. Lowestoff is cele- brated for its l^erring fishery, which was formerly more produc- tive than at present; and of which farther notice will be taken in treating of that town. The principal fabric of the county was, till lately, the spinning and combing of wool, which extended throughout the greatest part of Suffolk, with the exception of the district in which the manu- facture of hemp is exclusively carried on. In the year 1784, the woollen fabric was estimated by Mr. Oakes, of Bury, to employ 37,600 men, women and children, whose earnings amounted, upon an average, to 150,0001, per annum. The Norwich manufacture alone employed nearly half of the above number. At present this fabric is far from being so flourishing in this county, having been chiefly transferred to Yorkshire. At Sudbury tliere is a manufacture of says, and also a small silk manufactory ; and some calimancoes are still made at Lavenham. General History— Suffolk, so called from the Saxon ap- pellation Sudfolk, or southern people, in contradistinction to the Nordfolky or northern people, constituted, at the time of the in- vasion pf the Romans, part of the district belonging to the tribe, whom those concjuerors denominated Iceni, or Cenomanni. Their t history RUFFGLK. liislory has already been given in preceding volumes of tliis work*. In the Roman division of the island, it was comprehended in tht* •province of Flavia Cicsariensis. When the Romans, after a possession of four centuries, aban- tloned Britain to its fate, and tiie Saxons, on the invitation of its pusillanimous inhabitants, had made themselves complete masters of the country, Suffolk, constituted w ith Norfolk and Cambridge- shire, one of the seven petty kingdom.s, into which these new masters parcelled out the island. It was denominated East An- glia. To this state the German Ocean formed a natural barrier on the east and north-east ; the Stour divided it from the kingdom of the East Saxons, or Essex, on the south ; and on the west and north-west it bordered upon Mercia. The boundary on this side has not been accurately ascertained ; but it is the general opinion, that the stupendous effort of human labor, known by the name of the DeviPs Ditch, on Newmarket Heath, was formed as a line of demarcation and mutual defence. This opinion is encouraged by the account of Abbo Floriacensis, who says, that on the west part is a ditch and mound like a lofty wall.'' By subsequent mo- nastic writers it has been termed St. Edmund's Ditch ; and many antiquaries and historians have adopted this appellation. From the various and contradictory statements of ancient writers, the precise period of the establishmeiit of the monarchy of the East- Angles by Uffa, cannot be fixed with certainty ; hut we shall not probably be far from the truth, if we assume the year 530 of the Cl^ristian era as the date of that event. Uffa, after a long reign, died in 578, and was succeeded by Titil, whose liistory is involved in the darkest obscurity. His death is supposed to have happened in 592, when his son, Redwald, inherited the kingdom, and was the first East-Anglian monarch who embraced Christianity ; but the influence of his queen occasioned his relapse into the doctrines of paganism. His son, Eorpwald, who ascended the throne in 624, also professed the Christian religion, though the greater part C 4 of . # ^ce Vol. If. I). S. Vol. VII. p. 3ju ; and Vol. XL. Norfolk, p. 2.4 SUFFOLK. of his subjects still continued in the rudest state of idolatry. After a short reign of six years, he was basely murdered by the hand of a relation. The honor of giving Christianity a permanent footing in East-Anglia was resepved for Sigbrecht, or Sigebert, the successor of Eorpwald. This prince was the son by a former marriage of Redwald's second queen ; and finding that the popu- larity which his amiable qualities and accomplishments obtained for him, had excited the jealousy of his step-father, he retired to France. There he became a proficient in the literature of the age, and a zealous professor of the Christian faith. From this volun- tary exile Sigebert was recalled on the death of his half-brother, for the purpose of being placed on the vacant throne. He brought over with him Felix, a learned and pious Burgundian priest, whom he appointed bishop of Dunwich. In consequence of the indefa- tigable exertions of this prelate, and the judicious assistance of the sovereign, the latter soon had the satisfaction of witnessing the general conversion of his subjects to the Christian faith. To tliis monarch the town of Bury was indebted for the germ of the ecclesiastical distinction to which it afterwards attained : for here Sigebert founded a monastery, and built a church, which he dedi- cated to the Blessed Virgin, After a reign of seven yenrs, mo- tives of mistaken piety impelled this prince to resign the cares of a crown to his kinsman Egric, and to become a monk in his own convent. The royal recluse was not destined long to enjoy the pleasures of retirement. Penda, king of Mercia, having turned his arras against the East- Angles, Sigebert was prevailed upon to quit his monastery, and to assume the command of their army. His attempt to oppose the invader proved unsuccessful, both him- self and Egric being slain in 644. The crown now devolved to Anna, the nephew of Redwald, a prince distinguished for wisdom and valor. Notwitlistanding these qualities, he was unable to cope with the superior power of Penda ; and after an unequal con- test of ten years, he bravely fell with his son Firminus, in an obstinate battle fought at BuUchamp, near Dunwich, in 655. The remains of the two princes were interred at Blithburgh, but after- SUFFOLK. 25 afterwards removed to the abbey church at Bury. The assistance afforded to Perula by Ethelred, the unnatural brother of Anna, now procured his elevation to the throne of East-Anglia, which continued to be governed by its own princes till Offa, king of Mercia, about the year 792, basely assassinated Etiielbert, and seized his kingdom. Ravaged by contending armies, the coun- try was converted into a scene of bloodshed and desolation, but in 828 it was obliged to submit to the preponderating power of Egbert, king of the West-Saxons. That monarch, instead of incorporating East-Anglia with his own dominions, suffered it to remain as a tributary state under its own sovereigns, the last of whom was the unfortunate Edmund, dignified after his icath with the titles of Saint and Martyr. The subsequent history of Suffolk Iiaving been already related in that of Norfolk,* it will be sufficient to remark, that among other districts laid waste by Sweyne, king of Denmark, on his invasion of England, this county suffered most severely from his ravages ; neither towns nor churches being spared, unless redeemed by the inhabitants with large sums of money : but to compensate in some measure for this treatment, Canute, his son and suc- cessor, shewed it particular kindness. When William the Conqueror had by his sword made good Itt3 claim to the English crown, and confiscated the estates of the Saxon nobility and gentry throughout the kingdom, in order to reward the valor or fidelity of his principal officers, the county of Suffolk was parcelled out among them in the following manner? To Hugh de Abrincis, Earl of Chester, his sister*s son, he gave - -- -- -- -- --32 manor» To Robert, Earl of Morton and Cornwall - - . 10 To Odo of Champagne, Earl of Albemai'le and Holdernesse - -- -- -- -- -,14 To William Warren, Earl of Surrey IS To Eudo de Rye, steward of his household - - - 10 T(i • See Beauties, Vol, XI. Norfolk, p. 6, &c. 26 SUFFOLK. To William Malet, Lord of Eye in this county - - ?21 inanorJi To Robert de Todenei, a noble Norman - - - - 4 T© Robert de Stafford 2 To Alberic de Vere, Earl of Oxford ----- 9 To Jeffery de Magnavil, or Mandevill - - - - 26 To Richard de Tonebruge, or de Clare - - - - 95 To Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk - - - - -117 To Ralph de Limesi - - --------11 To Hugh de Grentmaisnell - -- -- -- 1 To Peter de Valoines - - 6 To Ralph Bainard 17 To Swene de Essex - -- - - -- -- - 9 To Roger de Aubervil - -- -- -- --14 To Robert Blound, or Blunt - 13 At the same time Ralph Waher, or Guader,* was by the con- queror constituted earl, or chief governor of this county, as well as Norfolk ; but this nobleman having conspired against the king, was obliged to quit the country, upon which his titles were con- ferred on Roger Bigod. In the reign of Henry II. about the year 1173, Robert, Earl of Leicester, having taken part with Henry, the eldest son of tha!t monarch, whose ambition, inflamed by the king of France, tempted him to aspire to the throne of his father, invaded this county v/ith an army of Flemings, and was joined by Hugh Bigod, earl of Norfolk. This force overran nearly the whole county ; but being met near Bury, by the royal troops, under the lord chief jus- tice, they were routed with great slaughter, and the earl himself taken prisoner. By these two armies Suffolk was at this time miserably laid waste, especially in the neighboi'hood of the place where the battle was fought: During the first war between the barons and king John, Hugh de Boves, a French knight, not less remarkable for his valor, than for his arrogance, promised to bring over a strong army to the assistance of the latter. In consideration of this intended service * See Beauties, Vol. XI. Norfolk; p. 60. SUFFOLK. C7 ^iervice, be obtained of the king a charter, granting him the coun- ties of Norfolk and Suffolk, from which he designed, as it was reported, to expel the inhabitants, and to re-people them with foreigners. With this view he assembled a formidable urmy at Calais. These troops, with their wives and children, being there embarked with an intent to land at Dover, were overtaken by so violent a tempest, and Hugh himself, and all his followers, perished. Matthew Paris computes the total number of lives lost on this occasion at 40,000. The king was thus disap- pointed of the expected succour ; but the inhabitants of Suffolk were not a little rejoiced at their escape from this destruction intended them. But though the county was saved by this provi- dential interference from the rapacity of the king's confederates, it was destined to suffer severely from the allies of the barons : for Louis, the dauphin of France, in conjunction with the nobles who were in arms against John, made incursions into this county, and having ravaged the towns and villages, reduced it into com- plete subjection to themselves. In the rebellion excited by Wat Tyler and Jack Straw against Richard II. the populace of this county, headed by John Wraw, and John Ball, two seditious priests, took a conspicuous share. Assembling in vast numbers, they committed the greatest enor- mities, putting to death the chief justice of England, the Earl of Suffolk, and other distinguished persons, till they were routed with great slaughter, and finally dispersed by the bishop of Nor- wich. In the fifteenth year of Henry VII. one Patrick, an Augustine friar of this county, having a scholar, named Ralph Wilford, the son of a shoemaker, instructed him to assume the character of the earl of Warwick, nephew to Edward IV. and Richard III. at that time confined in tlie Tower, whence the impostor pretended to have escaped by the aid of the friar. This story gained credit from many people, as soon as it was divulged, wliich encouraged the friar to assert its authenticity from the pulpit. The king l^eing soon informed of these tranKactions, caused both master aud scholar 28 SCFFOLK. fjcholar to be apprehended ; the latter \fas hanged : and the friar condemned to perpetual imprisonment.* It does not appear that Suffolk had any share in Kelt's rebellion, in the reigu of Edward VI. though the seat of that insurrection was in the neighboring county of Norfolk. On Edward's decease, the inhabitants of Suffolk, though as sin- cere Protestants as any part of the nation, zealously supported the title of his sister Mary, against the pretensions of Lady Jane Grey's adherents. When the iprncess repaired on this occasion from Norfolk to Framllngham Castle in this county, the nobility and gentry resorted to her, offering their services to vindicate her rightful claim to the crown, on condition that they might enjoy their religion as established in the reign of her predecessor. Mary assured them that no alteration should be made in that point by her consent, and still less by her authority ; but no sooner was she firmly seated on the throne, than the people of Suffolk found tliemselves as much the victims of the misguided system of this princess as the rest of their fellow-subjects. They ventured to remonstrate with her majesty, and humbly entreated her to be mindful of her promise to them, but were answered, contrary to their expectation, that " it was not^the place of members to go- vem the head, nor subjects their prince, as they should hereafter know/' The threat conveyed in the concluding words was ful- filled in the rigorous persecution to which many of the inhabitants of this county fell a sacrifice. In 1-578, the nobility and gentry of Suffolk magnificently enter- tained Queen Elizabeth in her progress ; for though they had but short notice of her intended visit, they prepared so well for it, that on her entering the county, she was received by two hundred young gentlemen clad in white velvet, three hundred of the graver *?ort in black, and 1500 attendants on horseback, under the con- duct of the high-sheriff. Sir William Spring. When her majesty, highly pleased with her entertainment, left the county on her return, she was attended to the confines by the like escort. During the civil war between Charles I. and the parliament, tiiia, * Maj;ni\ Britannie, Vol, V. p. 174. SUFFOLK. this was one of those counties that associated for the maintenance ' of the cause of the latter, and were placed under the command of the Earl of Manchester, Sir Edward Barker, Sir John Petty, and otlier loyal gentlemen of this county, endeavored, it is true, to raise a force to secure it for the king ; hut Cromwell surprized and reduced them to obedience. In 1782, when England was involved in a war with France, Spain, HoUand, and America, the principal inhabitants of Suf- folk, at a meeting held at Stowmarket, agreed to open a sub- sci iption, in order to raise a sum sufficient to build a seventy- four gun ship, to be presented to government. Notwithstanding the zeal and efforts tliat were employed to forward this design, it appealed at the conclusion of the yeai- that no more than 20,0001. had been subscribed. A general peace following very soon after- wards, the plan was di'opped, and consequently the subscribers were not called upon for the suras for which they had pledged themselves. HoNORiAL HISTORY. — Previously to the Norman conqnest, and for nearly two centuries afterwards, the lienors of Suffolk and Norfolk were united in one person. The former never con- ferred a separate title till the 11th Edward III. when, on tiie decease of Thomas Plantagenet de Brotherton, without issue, ^ Robert,, son of Robert de UfFord, steward of the royal house- hold, by Cicely de Valoines, was created earl of Suffolk, and had an annuity of 201. per annum granted him sub nomine et hoiwre comitis. He was much employed by his sovereign in important affairs of state till his death, in the 43d year of the same reign, when he left his honor and possessions to his son William de Ueford, who was snatclied away by sudden death, as his four sons had been before him. Ascending the step>f to the house of lords to represent to them what the commons, in parliament assembled, considered of the greatest importance for tfhe welfare of the realm, he fell down and expired, leaving his possessions to Sir William de Eresby, Roger Lord Scales, and Henry liord Ferrers of Groby, the issue of his three sisters. The 4 SUFFOLK. The title thus hecame extinct in this family, and lay dormant four' years, when king Richard II. in the ninth year of his reign be- stowed it on Michael de la Pole, whom he had before made chancellor and keeper of the great seal, assigning him at the same time a grant of 1000 marks per annum to be paid out of his exchequer. Of this nobleman Walsingham observes, that being the son of a merchant, and brought up in the mercantile- line himself, he was: better versed in commercial matters than in affairs of state. H'm father was William de la Pole, mayor of Kingston-upon-Hull, who had the dignity of a banneret conferred upon him as part of his re- ward for lending Edward III. large sums of money, without which he could not have prosecuted his designs against France. The king also promised to pay him 10001. a year on the recovery of his rights in that country. Of his son, the earl of Suffolk, Camden adds, that wanting a mind capable of bearing such a flow of pros- perity, he was guilty of some misdemeanor, for which reason he was forced to quit the court, and died in exile at Paris. His large estate was ponfiscated^ so that a small portion only descended to his son and heir. Michael de la Pole, who, having married Catharine, daugh- ter of Hugh, earl of Stafford, had certain manors settled upon him and his wife, in the lifetime of his father, for their better support. Those he enjoyed, with the addition of 501. per annum granted upon his petition by the king, and the title of a knight, till the death of Richard I. Soon after the elevation of his successor, to which de la Polo materially contributed, he presented a statement of his case in a petition to parliament, and with the assent of the peers was made capable of inheriting all the lands and lordships of his ancestors, and allowed to enjoy the title and honor of earl of Suffolk to him and his heirs. He died of a flux in 1415, at the siege of Harfieur in France. Michael de la Pole, son and heir of the preceding, fell within a month after his father's decease, at the glorious battle of Agin- c@urt, and furnii»bed our inimitable bard witl\ the subject of thosie^ pathetiGf SUFFOLK, pjitlietic lines, in wliich tlie duke of Exeter, uncle to the kin;;:, Utscribes the tleath of his own brother the duke of York : — Suffolk first died : and York, all haggled over Comes ro him, where in gore he lay insteep'd. And takes hirn by the beard, kisses the gashes. That bloodily did yawn upon his face. And cries alood — " Tarry, dear cousin Suffolk ! My soul shall keep thine company to heaven: Tarry, sweet soul, for mine, then fly abreast ; As, in this glorious and well foughten field. We kept together in our chivalry !" — So did he turn, and over Suffolk's neck He threw his wounded arm and kiss'd his lips ; And so espous'd to deaths with blood he seal'd A testansent of noble-ending love. William de la Pole, brother to the gallant earl, succeeded- him in his honors and possessions. He was a brave and skilful officer, and being left in France after the death of Henry V. he rendered such eminent services in preserving the conquests there, that he was rewarded witli the dignity of marquis, and various additional privileges and emoluments. In the 22d of Henry VI. he was sent over to France, apparently to settle the terms of a truce, which Itad then been begun, but in reality to procure a suitable match for the king. The princess selected to be the partner of his throne, was Margaret of Anjou, daughter of Reg- nier, titular king of Sicily. The treaty of marriage having been soon brought to a conclusion by Suffolk, he was sent as the king's proxy to espouse the princess, and conduct her to England. He enjoyed ever afterwards a high degree of favor with the queen, through whose means he was made lord chamberlain, lord high admiral of England, and raised to the dignity of duke of Suffolk. This nobleman is accused of having been concerned with the car- dinal of Winchester, in the assassination of the good duke of Gloucester ; and after tlie death of the cardinal, governed every thing with uncontrolled sway. Hi« conduct soon excited the jea- lousy 32 SUFFOLK. lousy of the otlier nobility ; and every odious or unsuccessful measure was attributed to him. So strong was the popular re- sentment against him, that tlie king, to skreen him as much as possible, sentenced him to five yeaxs' banishment. This was con- sidered hy his enemies as an escape from justice ; the captain of a ship was therefore employed to intercept him in his passage to France. Being seized near Dover, his head was struck off on the i>ide of a long boat ; after which his remains were interred in the collegiate church of Wingfield, in this county. His son and heir, John de la Pole, having married Elizabeth, sister to Ed- ward IV. had the honors of marquis and duke confirmed to him and his heirs. He was much in favor with that monarch, and was made constable of Wallingford castle by Henry VII. At his death in 1491, his eldest son, John, who, in his father's life-time had been created earl of Lincoln, succeeded him in his honors of Suffolk. He was made lord lieutenant of Ireland by Richard III. who, after the death of his son, caused him to be proclaimed heir apparent to the crown of England, passing by the daughters of his elder brother Edward. Being so eminent a branch of the York family, it is not surprising that he should be decidedly hostile to the pretensions of Henry duke of Richmond ; on whose accession to the crown, he fled to his sister, the duchess of Burgundy, and entered early into the project formed in behalf of the impostor Simnel. As commander- in-chief of the force destined for its accomplishment, he fell, with 4000 of his followers, at the battle of Stoke-upon-Trent, in 1487. Edmund, his next brother, succeeded him ; and being a man of an enterprising and courageous spirit, was employed by the king in various commissions at home and abroad. Being, how- ever, so nearly related to the crown, by his mother and brother, ■whose heir he was, king Henry VIII. conceived a strong jealousy of him, as a dangerous rival. He therefore ordered him to be secured and imprisoned in the Tower : till at length, previously to his expedition against France, fearing lest the people should, during his absence, release his victim, and make him king, he resolved SUFFOLK. 83 resolved to remove this nobleman out of his way. He was accord-* ingly beheaded in tlie Tower, leaving an only daughter, who embraced the monastic life : and thus this honor again became extinct, but was soon afterwards revived in another family, in the person of Charles Brandon, son of Sir Thomas Brandon, who having been a firm adherent to Henry, duke of Richmond, was, on his accession to the throne, made a knight of the garter and mar- shal of the court of common-pleas. Charles, his son and heir, was endowed by nature with eminent qualities both of body and mind ; and for his services in the campaign against France, was invested by Henry VIII. with tlie dignity of viscount Lisle and duke of Suffolk. This nobleman won the heart of the king- s sis- ter, the princess Mary, who was married to Louis XII. of France ; and after her short-lived union with that monarch, became her hus- band. On the dissolution of the greater monasteries, he obtained a considerable share of their possessions. In the 36th of Henry VIII. he was appointed general of the army that was sent into France, and took Boulogne; and dying the year following, was interred in St. George^s chapel, at Windsor Castie. By Catha- rine, daughter of Lord Willoughby de Eresby, he left two sons. Henry, who succeeded him in his honors and estate, and Charles, both of them in their minority. These youths being at the house of the bishop of Lincoln, at Bugden, in Huntingdonshire, were seized with the sweating sickness, which was then makiiig great ravages, and died on the same day, ^uly 14, 1551, without heirs. Henry Grey, marquis of Dorset, having married Frances, eldest daughter of Charles Brandon, and the princess Mary% sister to Henry VIII. was now created duke of Suffolk, Oct. 11, 1551, By this union he had three daughters, the eldest of whom, Jane, being married to Guildford, lord Dudley, foui th son of the duke of Northumberland, was, through his artifices, appointed by the will of king Edward VI. his successor, to the prejudice of his sis- ters Mary and Elizabeth. The former having soon overcome all Vol. XIV. D opposi- 34 suiroLK. opposition, the ill-fated Lady Jane Grey suffered for the ambition of her friends ; her f;ither, her husband, and herself, being all brought to the block. The title was not revived for many years, till Thomas Howard, eldest son of Thomas, duke of Norfolk, by his second wife, Margaret, daughter and heiress of Thomas Lord Audley, of Walden, and lord high chancellor of England, was, in the first of James 1. created earl of Suffolk. This noble- man, during the reign of queen Elizalieth, had greatly distin- guished himself as a naval officer, especially in the memorable engagement with the Spanish armada in 1588. He also com- manded a squadron destined to attack the Spanish plate fleet in 1595 ; and was adfuiral of the third squadron of the fleet which sailed against Cadiz in 1597. On his return he was created a baron, by the title of Lord Howard, of Walden, and afterwards invested with the earldom of Suffolk, as related above. He died in 1626. In his family the honors have ever since remained, the present peer, John Howard, being the fifteenth earl of Suffolk, Ecclesiastical history — The christian religion, which had gained a small footing in the kingdom of the East- Angles, in the reigns of Redwald and Erpenwald, Was not established in that country till Sigebert was invested with the government. Red- wald, while viceroy of Kent under king Ethelbert, was converted to Christianity and baptized ; but succeeding his father Titul in the kingdom of the East-Angles, he was persuaded by his wife to return io his former idolatry ; yet that he might not seem wholly to renounce Christianity, he erected in the same temple an altar for the service of Christ, and another for sacrifices to idols, which, as Bede informs us, were standing in his time. Thus rJiristianity was banished from his kingdom during his reign. The queen, however, who had thus excluded the true religion, was the means of its establishment in the sequel. Being the widow of a nobkinan, by whom she had a son named Sigebert she introdui'cd him at the court of Redwald. By Redwald she had two sons, Reynhere and Erpenwald, who being brought up with SUFFOLK. with Sigebert, were so far surpassed by him both in person and behavior, that Redwald took umbrage at the youth, and banished him into France, where he continued during the remainder of Red- wald's reign, and that of Erpenwald, who succeeded him, because Reynhere had been killed in a battle with Ethelfred, king of Northumberland, fought near tlie river Idle, in Nottinghamshire. Erpenwald having been convinced by Edwin, king of Northum- berland, while residing as an exile at his father's court, of the truth of Christianity, had embraced that religion; and on his accession to the throne, he openly professed it, hoping that his subjects would follow his example ; but, contrary to his expecta- tations, they were so dissatisfied, that a conspiracy was formed against his life, and he fell by tlie hand of an assassin named Richebert, leaving no issue. The East-Angles being now des- titute of an heir to the throne, and considering none so well qua- lified to fill it as Sigebert, whom RedwakPs groundless jealousy had driven out of the kingdom, made him an offer of the crown. This prince, in his exile, had spent his time in study, and been fully instructed in the faith of Christ, which he had professed for many years prior to this invitation. Having accepted it, he re- turned to his native country, and resolving to introduce into his dominions that religion to which he had himself become a convert, he took with him a Burgundian ecclesiastic, named Felix, a man eminent for his piety, with whom he had contracted an intimacy, to preach the gospel to his subjects. Felix, on his anival in England, was constituted bishop of East-Anglia, and fixed his seat at Dunwich in this county."'^ Ou his death in 647, he was buried in his church of Dunwich ; but his body was afterwards removed to Soham, where he had his seat for some time, and interred in the monastery there, which was not long afterwards demolished by the Danes. Capgrave informs us, that some centuries later, in Canute's reign. Abbot Ethel- stan, having with great pains discovered his bones, removed them to his abbey at Ramsey. D 2 Thomas, • See B'saiities, Vol. XI. Xorfolk. p 16. 36 SUFFOLK. Thomas, lits deacon, succeeded him, and was followed by BregilsvSy likewise called Boniface. Bisa, or Bosn, was next consecrated to this see In 669. Is consequence of his infirmities, he divided the province into two bishopricks, the seat of one of which remained at Dunwich; and- the other was fixed at North Elmham, in Norfolk. He was pre- sent at the counfcil of Hertford in 673, and died the same year. Etta, or JEcca, succeeded him in the see of Dunwich. He governed it about two years, and then with Bedwin, bishop of North Elmham, embraced the monastic life in the abbey of St. Osyth, in Essex. Easculphus, or Astulfus, was the next bishop. How long he enjoyed the episcopal dignity does not appear ; but it is conjec- tured to have been not much less than fifty years, as no mention is found of his successor Eadrid, or Eilrid, till 731, when Bede concluded his history. He was present at the council of Clovesho, held in 767, and sub- scribed canons by the name of Hcardclfus Episcopus Dummo- censis.* He was succeeded by Cuthwin, or Guthwin ; after whom Albert, or Albrith, obtained this see ; and was followed by Eglaf, called also Algar, who had for his successor Hardred, or Heardred, whom Malmsbury calls Eudred. Of this prelate. Bishop Godwin says : " This is he, perhaps, who in mentioned in the synod called in the year 747, by Cuthbert, arch- bishop of Canterbury, and subscribed it by the name of Hardulf :" but Whartonf having better computed the time of the meeting of that synod, judges that Edred, above mentioned, must have been bishop of Dunwich at that time ; and his opinion appears to be tlie safest to follow. Alsinus, or Alfunus, succeeded Hardred ; and after him came Titefertus, or Ted/rid, also called Widfrith. He was bishop of Dunwich when Offa, king of Mercia, made Litchfield an arch- bish- * Spelm. Concil. An^L p. 24?; f Anglia Sacra, Vol, I. p. 404> SUFFOLK. 37 bisliopiick^ which was about the year 787, and was proscnt al tin; synods qf' Boacoiilit'ld in 798 ; of Clovesho in 803; and of Ccli- ciith in'813.* W€re}RunduSf or IVermnnd, was tlic noxl bishop; He died in 870, about the same time will i Humbert, bishop of Nortli Elm- ham, whose sncceKsor, Wybrcd, again united that see with Dun- wich, and fixed the episcopal seat at the former phice. Ecclesiastical and civil government.— The ecchsiasti- cal government Oi* this county is vested in the bisliop of Norwich, assisted by two archdeacons, those- of Sudbury and Suffolk. A ' few^ parishes, how ever, arc not subject to his jurisdiction. These are, Hadleigh, Monks lllcigh and Moulton, which are pcculiai*s to the archbishop of Canterbury ; and Freckenham, with Isleham, in Cambridgeshire, is a peculiar to the bishop of Rochester. The diocesan had but one archdeacon till 112G, when Richard, arch- deacon of the whole county, being elevated to an episcopal see in France, Eborard, or Everard, then bishop of Norwich, divided Suffolk into two archdeaconries ; making the westeni part of it, together with such parishes in Cambridgeshire as belonged to his diocepe, object to the archdeacon of Sudbury, and the eastern portion to the archdeacon of Suffolk. The former is subdivided into eight deaneries : Sudbury, Stow, Thingo, Clare, Fordham, in Cambridgeshire^ Hartesmrre, Blackbourn, and Thetlwestry ; and the latter into fourteen, Avhich are, Ipswich, Bosmere, Clay- don, Hoxne, Southelmham, Wangford, Lothinglaiid, Dunwich, Orford, Loes, Wilford, Carlford, Colneis, and Samford. The high-sheriff for the time being is at the head of the civil government of the county, which, in this respect, is divided into the Geldable and Franchises. In the former, the issues and for- feitures are paid to the king : in the latter to the lords of the liberties. The geldable hundreds are, Samford, Bosmere and Claydon, Stow, Hartcsmere, Hoxne, Blything, Wangford, and * the two half hundreds of Mutford and Lothingland. For these the D 3 sessions * Speltn. Concil Av^l p. 318, 325, 39.d. 38 SUFFOLK. sessions are held at Beccles and Ipswicli ; that is, at Beccles, for Wangford, Blything, Mutford, and Lothingland ; and at Ipswich, for the remainder. The franchises are three in number. 1. The Franchise or Liberty of St. Ethehed, formerly belonged to the prior and convent, and now to the dean and chapter of Ely, contains the hundreds of Carlford, Colneis, Wilford, Plomesgate, Loes, and Thredling, for which the sessions are held at Wood- bridge. The prior and convent possessed this liberty in the time of Edward the Confessor ; and when they were changed in 1541, into a dean and chapter, it was reputed to be of the yearly value of 201. 2. The Franchise, or Liberty of St. Edmund, given to the abbey of Bury by king Edward the Confessor, comprehends the hundreds of Cosford, Baberg, Risbridge, Lackford, Blackbourn, Thedwestry, Thingo, and the half hundred of Ixning ; for which the sessions are held at Bury. 3. The duke of Norfolk's liberty, granted by letters-patent of king Edward IV. dated 7th December, 1468, of returning writs, having a coroner, and receiving all fines and amercements within his manors of Bungay, Kelsale, Carlton, Peasenhall, the three Stonhams, Dennington, Brundish, the four llketsals, and Crat- tield. Tliere is but one assize for the whole county ; but at every assize two grand juries are appointed, one for the geldable, and the other for the liberty of Bury St. Edmund's. Suffolk and Nor- folk had formerly but one high-sheriff ; but since 1576, a distinct ofhcer has been nominated for each of these counties. SiifTolk pays twenty parts of the land-tax, and furnishes 960 men for the national militia. It returns sixteen members to the imperial parliament : two for the county, and two for each of the towns of Aldborough, Dunwich^ Eye, Ipswich, Orford, Sudbury, and St. Edmund's Bury, HUNDRED SUFFOLK. HUNDRED OF LACKFORD. The hundred of Lackford is divided by the Ousc from the CDunty of Cambridge on tlie west; by the Little Ouse from Norfolk on the north; and is bounded on the east and south by the hundreds of Blackbourn, Thingo, and Risbridge. The western half of this district consists almost entirely of marsh and moor l&nd, and the western of sand. The surface of the fens from one foot to six, is the common peat of bogs, with an under-stratum of white clay or marl. It is partly under "water, though subject tp a tax for the drainage, which has foiled ; but in Burnt Fen, the westernmost extremity of the county bordering on the Ouse, fourteen thousand acres have been com- pletely drained, and brought into cultivation. Mr. Young ob- serves, that there are few instances of such sudden improvement as have been made in this tract. Forty years ago ti\ e hundred acres were here let for one guinea a year; but in 1772, an act was ob- tained for a separate drainage, and one shilling and six-pence an acre levied for the expense of embankments, mills, and other requisites. In 1777, the bank broke, and most of the proprietors were ruined. In 1782, owing to the success of the macliine de- nominated the bear, in cleansing the bottoms of rivers, and other circumstances, various persons began to purchase in this neglect- ed district. The banks were better made, mills were erected, and the success was very great. Lots and estates were at this time sold for sums scarcely exceeding their present annual rent. To these improvements paring and burning have very much con- tributed. MiLDENHALL, is the principal town in this hundred. It is a large pleasant, well-built place, constitutes a half hundred of itself, and has a weekly market on Fridays, well supplied with fish, wild fowl, and all other provisions. Towards tlie fens, which extend eastward to CambridceBhire, are several lar^^e streets, called by D 4 the 40 soffolk:. the inhabitants rows, as West-row, Beck-row, Holywell-row. which of themselves are as large as ordinary villages. The situa- tion of Mildenhall upon the river Larke, which is navigable for barges, has considerably added to the trade and enlargement of the town. According to the enumeration of 1801, it contains 355 houses, and 2283 inhabitants. The church is a large handsome structure, with a rich roof of carved wood work. It consists of a spacious nave, two side ailes, a proportionate chancel, a neat gothic porch, and a tower 120 feet high. It contains many monuments for tb^ family of the Norths. To the north of it stands the noble mansion of Sir Thomas Charles Bunbiiry, Bart, one of the representatives in this county in parliament. It was formerly the residence of his great uncle, Sir Thomas Hanmer, who was speaker of the house of commons in Queen Anne's reign, and died in 1746. Contiguous to his house he had a very fine bowling-green ; and was one of the last gentlemen of any fashion in this county who amused themselves with that diversion. To the proprietor of this mansion belongs also one manor of this town, which was given by Edward the Confessor to the abbey af Bury, that the religious might eat wheaten instead of barley bread. After the dissolution, it was granted in the fourth and fifth of Philip and Mary, to Thomas Reeve and Christopher Ballet. The ancient mansion of the Norths is of the time of Elizabeth, or early in the reign of James I. It contains many numerous apartments, and a gallery the whole length of the front; but the rooms ia general are of small dimensions. We are informed by Holinshed, that on the 17th of May, 1507, this town suffered severely from fire, which, in two hours, destroy- ed thirty-seven dwelling houses, besides barns, stables, and other gppurtenances. Mildenhall has furnished London with two lord-mayors ; Henry Barton, who held that honorable office in 1428 ; and William Gregory in 1451. It has a considerable yearly fair, which be- gins on the 29th of September, and lasts four days. ^ Brandon, SUFFOLK. •Brandon, a town which formerly had a weekly market, now discontinued, is agreeably situated on the Little Ouse, and con- tains 201 houses, and 1148 inhabitants. The river, which is navigable from Lynn to Thetford, has a bridge over it at this place ; and a mile lower down a ferry for conveying goods to and from the isle of Ely. The town is well built; and its church is a ^ood structure. In the neighbourhood are some extensive rabbit- warrens, which largely contribute to the supply of the London ' markets. One of these warrens alone is said to furnish forty thou- sand rabbits in a year. At this place rs a manufactory of gun-flints, the refuse of which, thrown together at the end of the town, forms heaps of such dimensions, that a stranger cannot forbear wondering whence they could have been collected. This town gave name to the illustrious family of the Brandons, dukes of Suffolk, and afterwards conferred the title of baron on Charles Gerard, who, for his zeal in the service of Charles I. was created by that monarch lord Gerard of Brandon ; and ad- vanced by his son Charles to the dignity of earl of Macclesfield. On the extinction of his family. Queen Anne, in 1711, created the duke of Hamilton a peer of England, })y the title of baron Button, and duke of Brandon, which is still enjoyed by his de- scendants. Simon Eyre, who was lord-mayor of London in 1445, was a native of Brandon. At his own expense he erected Leadenhall for a granary for the metropolis, with a handsome chapel on the east side of the square, over the porch of which he placed this inscription : Dextra Domini exaltavit me-—" The right hand of the Lord bath exalted me.^' He left moreover 5000 marks, a very large sum in those days, for charitable purposes ; and dying in 1459, was interred in the church of St. Mary Woolnoth, Lom- bard-street. Brandon has three annual fairs, on 14th of February, 11th of June, and 11th of November. DowNHAM, also called Smidy Downham, a village seated on t the 42 SUFFOLK. the Little Ouse, is remarkable for an inundation of sand, which, in 1668, threatened to overwhelm the whole place. The circum- stances of this phienomenon, unparalleled perhaps in England, are detailed in a letter written by Thomas Wright, Esq. who was resident upon the spot, and a considerable sufferer by the effects of this extraordinary visitation. He states, that he found some difficulty in tracing those wonderful sands to their origin, but at last discovered it to be at Lakenheath, about five miles to the south-west of Downham, where some large sand-hills, having their surface broken by a tempestuous south-west wind, were blown upon some neighboring ground, which being of the same nature, and having upon it only a thin coat of grass, which was soon rotted by the other sand that lay over it, joined the Lakenheath sand, increased its mass, and accompanied it in its strange progress. At its first eruption, the sand is supposed to have covered not more than eight or ten acres : but before it had proceeded four miles, it liad increased to such a degree, as to cover above a thou- sand. All the opposition that it experienced between Lakenheath and Downham, was from one farm-house, which the owner en- deavored to secure by building bulwarks against it ; but perceiving that this would not auswer his purpose, he changed his plan, and instead of attempting to prevent its advance, he allowed it a free passage, and thus got rid of it in the space of four or five years. When this sand-flood reached Downham, it continued ten or twelve years in the skirts of the village, without doing any consi- derable damage, owing, as Mr. Wright imagines, to the circum- stance of its current being then down hill, and therefore sheltered from those winds which gave it motion. Having once passed the valley, it went above a mile up hill in two months; and in the same year overran more than two hundred acres of very good corn- land. On entering the body of the village, it buried and destroyed several houses , and the inhabitants of the others preserved them at a greater expense tlian they were worth. With great exertions Mr. Wriglit gave some check to the progress of the flood, though for four or five years his success was doubtful. It had gained possession StJFFOLK. 43 possession of all the avenues, so that there was no other access to his house but over two walls eight or nine feet in height ; and a small grove in front of it was encompassed, and almost buried in Band : nay, at one time it had filled his yard, and was blown up almost to the eaves of his out-houses. At the other end it had broken down his garden-wall, and obstructed all passage that way. For four or five years Mr. Wright stopped it as well as he could with furze-hedges set upon one another, as fast as they were le- velled by the sand. By this experiment he raised banks near twenty yards high, and brought the sand into the compass of eight or ten acres ; then by laying upon it some hundred loads of earth and dung in one year, he reduced it again to firm land : on which he cleared all his walls ; and with the assistance of his neighbors carting away fifteen hundred loads in one month, he cut a passage to his house through the main body of the sand. The Little Ouse, on which Downham is seated, was for the space of three miles so choaked, that a vessel with two loads weight, found as much difficulty to pass as it had done before with ten ; and had not this river interposed and checked the pro- gress of the inundation into Norfolk, great part of that county had probably been ruined. According to the proportion of the increase of the sand in the five miles over which it travelled, which was from ten acres to 1500 or 2000, it would have been swelled to a quantity truly prodigious, in a progress over ten miles more of the like soil. The cause of this flood Mr. Wright ascribed to the violence of the south-west wind passing over the level of the fens without any check, and to the sandiness of the soil ; the levity of which, as he believed, gave occasion to the story of actions formerly brought in Norfolk, for ground blown out of the possession of the owners : but he observes, that in this re- spect the county of Suffolk was more friendly, as he had possessed a great quantity of this wandering land without interruption.* Elvedon, • Phil. Trans No. XVIT. The itutbors of Magna Britawiia, (Vol. V-p. 219) and of bevcral subse- quent 44 SUFFOLK. Elvedon, a small village, was formerly of some iiote, for the session of certain justices of the peace, who, when the king's ^commissioners appointed to apprehend, try and punish the riotous inhabitants of Bury in 1327, for the outrages committed by them against the abbot and convenl; of that town, only indicted them for a trespass, boldly proceeded against them as felons, on which they were brought to trial, and nineteen suffered death. Elvedon gave the title of viscount to admiral Keppel. To the right of the village is Ehedm-Hall, the seat of the earl of Albe- marle, whose attention to laudable and useful pursuits entitles bira to not less respect than his rank. This nobleman has here taken into his own hands a farm of 4000 acres ; " he promises,^' Hik Mr. Young observes, " to be a very active and experimental fanner : and will, by improving and planting, change the face of the desert which surrounds him.''* He has introduced the system of drill-husbandry on a large scale upon his farm, consisting chiefly of a blowing sand : and by a trial of a flock of 900 Norfolk sheep> against the same number of South Downs, has established th^ decided superiority of the latter. The manor of E res well was held of the king in capite, as of his honor of Boulogne, by Ralph of Roucestre, and his descend- ants; and in the first of Edward 11. by Robert de Tudenham, and^ Eve his wife. Besides the parochial church, there was at the Aoiih end of the parish a chapel dedicated to St. I/awrence ; and in one of these was a chauntry of the yearly value of 91. 4s. 6d. ExNiNG, or IxNiNG, is a village about a mile from Newmar- ket, in the centre of a small portion of Suflblk, joined only by the high road to the rest of the county, and otherwise surrounded by Cambridgeshire, to which, in the reign of Edward I. it gave the name» < quent works, erroneously assert, on the autliorify of Ilolinshcd, that in Octo- ber twenty -seven fishes of prodigious size, the smallest measuring twenty feet in length, were taken near the bridge of this village. The Downham Bpoken of by Holinshed, is Downham -market^ eleven miles from T-ynnij in Norfolk. ♦ Agriculture of Suffolk, p. 403. SUFFOLK. 0 mttiB of a half hundred. Kirby, in his Suffolk Traveller, says, that this place, with Newmarket, is reckoned in the hundred of Stow ;* but the general method which makes this detached d'ls- Irict part of the hundred of Lackford is here adopted. This village is pleasantly situated in a small vale, with a rivulef running through tlie midst of it, and well shaded with fine poplar&> producing an agreeable contrast to the monotony of the surround* ing country, which in general presents one uniform, naked plain. The church is a good and spacious building, with a lofty square tower, which commands a very extensive prospect, and is seen &t a great distance. In the chancel, very near the communion table, is a square altar tomb close to the wall. It is of a coarse sort d? ^rey marble, and was formerly adorned with brasses, which have been torn away. Neither tradition nor any memorial has pre* •served the name of the person for whom it was erected. In the window over the altar remain a few panes of painted plass ; some of them with mutilated figures. One of these without head, has a. golden wand, which probably formed part of a crosier. A large quadrangular brick mansion here, was formerly the seat of the Shepherds, who possessed a good estate in this county, but wa» sold by the late lady Irwin, the heiress of tliat family. One side of the town of Newmarket is situated in the parish of Exning, iis also part of the heath so celebrated in the annals of racing, Exning was formerly of greater note than it is at present. It was the birth-place of Etheldred, daughter of king Anna, whoni the pope canonized for a virgin, though she was married to two husbands. Here also Ralph Waher, earl of the East-Angles, plan- ned his conspiracy against Vfilliam the Conqueror, with Roger d^ Britolio, earl of Hereford, Waltheof, earl of Northumberland, and some other persons of high rank. Their design to kill William, or to drive him out of the realm, was, however, soon quashed, partly by the desertion of earl Waltheof, and some of the chief confederates, and partly by the vigilance of the king's friends, the •SnffolJc Travt'llcr, second Kdit. p. 127. 46 SUFFOLK. the Bishops of Worcester and Bayeux. Ralph, finding his situa- tion hopeless, fled first into France, and then to Denmark, leav- ing his possessions, and those of his adherents, to the mercy of their adversaries. IcKLiNGHAM, four miles eastward of Mildenhall, on the north of the Lark, has two parishes, and two parish churches, St, James and All Saints. In the latter, within the rails of the com- munion table and about the chancel, is a considerable quantity of Roman bricks, or tiles, which were some time since ploughed up in a neighboring field, and placed here for their preservation. They are of different shapes, slightly traced with the figures of animals, flowers, human faces, &c. ; some few of them are vitri- fied. This place is supposed by some to have been the an- cient Roman station, Comhretonium, or, according to Horsley, Comboritum Here, at any rate, says the author of a Tour through England, ascribed to the pen of Samuel Richardson, are vestiges of a settlement, which seems to have extended half a mile in length, at a small distance from the river. On the west side of the ruins is a square encampment, which appears to have contained about twenty-five acres, and is now called Kentfield, said to be a corruption of Campfield. The vallum is visible all round it, except where the moorish ground has brought it to decay. Coins and fibulte have been found here, especially in a ploughed field half a mile north-west of the town, and also in the moors, when dug for the purpose of being fenced and drained. Many years since an ancient leaden cistern, containg sixteen gallons, and ornamented as with hoops, was likewise discovered by a ploughman, who struck his share against the edge of it. West- ward of the camp, upon Warren-hill, are tliree large barrows, each encompassed by a ditch. One of these parishes gave birth to John Michell, lord-mayor of London, 3d Henry VL Nkwmarket, the most considerable part of which is situat- 9 ed SUFFOLK. 4T in Suffolk, has already been described in trealin"; of Cam- bridgeshire^ to which the reader is here referred.* Thetford, is in a similar predicament with the preceding place. The whole, or at leant by far the greater part of this once celebrated town, seems to have been originally on the Suffolk side of the Little Ouse, where in the reign of Edward III. were situated thirteen out of the twenty parishes whicli it then comprehended. There is still one parish, St. Mary's, with about thirty houses in Suffolk, but in regard to ecclesiastical matters, under the jurisdic- tion of the archdeacon of Norwich.f HUNDRED OF THINGO. This district is bounded on the east by the Hundred of Tked- westry ; on the south by Baberg and Risbridge ; on the west by Risbridge and Lackford ; and on the north by Lackford and Black- bourn. In tliis hundred is situated the metropolis of the western divi- sion of the county, BURY ST. EDMUND'S. This town stands on tlie west side of the river Bourne, or Lark. It has a charmingly enclosed country on the south and south-west, and on the north and north-west champaign fields ex- tending into Norfolk; while on the east the country is partly open and partly enclosed. Bury is so pleasantly situated, cora- mauds such extensive views, and the air is so salubrious, that it has been denominated the Montpellier of England. The want • See Beauties, Vol. If. p. 139 t For a description ol T>ietford, sec Beauties, Vol. XT. Norfolk, p. 241 — g,-.o. of SUFFOLK. of wood, however, is justly deemed a great detraction fi'om the beauty of the country immediately surrounding the town; and the air here, though acknowledged to be extremely wholesome for persons of robust constitutions, is considered too sharp for those who enjoy but a delicate state of health, and especially in- dividuals afflicted with pulmonary complaints. Being situated on a rising ground and sandy soil, the streets of ^his place are always extremely clean. Most of them are paved with pebbles, one only. Abbey-gate street, having a foot-way on each side of flag-stones ; but in 1811 an act of parliament was ob- tained, for the purpose of extending to the whole town the advan- tages of paving, lighting, and watching. Including the suburbs, it is about a mile and a quarter broad, from east to west; and about one and an half in length, from south to north. It is di- vided into two parishes, and according to the enumeration of 1811, it contained 7938 inhabitants. Bury is governed by a recorder and twelve capital burgesses, one of whom is annually chosen alderman, and acts as chief ma- gistrate. Six others are assistant justices, and one holds the of- fice of coroner. The remainder of the body corporate consists of twenty-four common-council men, and these thirty-six persons only, return two members as representatives for the town in the parliament of the United Kingdom. Bury dates back its origin to a very remote period; but the most intelligent and inquisitive antiquaries differ much in their opinions respecting the precise time in which the site of th'm town began to be inhabited. Some writers, among whom are Camden,^' Baiteley, and Gale have supposed that it was the Ro- man station, denominated Villa Faustini, but the want of cir- cumstances to corroborate this conjecture, has led others, appa- rently with great justice, to question its probability.f It seems, however, * Camden was at first inclined to fix the Villa Faustini, at Chesterford in Essex, but afterwards determined in favor of this place, t Salmon supposed Maldeo, ifl £ssex, to be this VUJa Faustini ; Horsley fixed SUFFOLK. 49 however, to be generally aji^reetl, that previously to its receivinjf its present appellation, this place was called by the Saxons Beo- deric^S'Worth, that is to say, the seat, mansion, or residence of Beoderic ;* but how long it bore that name, is another point on which writers are at variance. Sigbriht, or Sigbert, fifth monarch of the East Angles, having embraced the Christian faith in France, whither he had been ba- nished by his half brother and predecessor Erpenwald, founded here about the year 638, a Christian church and monastery, which as we are informed by Dugdale was denominated, the monastei-y of St. Mary at Beodericworth. We are told by Abbo, a learned monk of the monastery of Fleury, in France,t that the town obtained this appellation from having been the property of a distinguished person named Beo- deric, who at his death bequeathed it to king Edmund, the mar- tyr. This account is confirmed by documents still preserved in the archives of Bury. ^ I Edmund, from whom this place derives its present name and fixed it at Dunmow, and Reynolds places it at Wool pit. The latter mentions in support of his opinion, the number of Roman coins which are frequently found at that place; whereas no such memorials have ever been discovered at Bury. ♦ A printed paper entitled, ^oiesc mcerning Bury St. Edmund's in com. Suf- folk, eitrncted out of the Right Honourable the Earl of Oxford's Library, by Mr. Wuvley, begins thus : " In very ancient times one Beodric was ownei of the ground, where the abbey and town of Bury St. Edmund's was after- wards built ; from which the Beoderic, village (then very small) was called Beodrices-worde, i. e. Beodrici Villa: and his demesne Innds, were the fields adjacent to the town of Bury, which appertained afterward to the of- fice (as I remember) of the Celerar. Upon the foundation of the monastery by K. Cnut, the old name came to be soon out of use, and the place to b© called Burgh." t He was invited to England by Oswald, archbishop of York, who plact-d him in the monastery of Ramsey. Returning to his native country, he AVi.? run through the body with a lance, while endeavouring to suppress a vioieru dispute in the court of a monastery in the south of France. Vol. XIV. E it. I 90 SUFFOLK. its celebrity, succeeded his uncle OflFa, kini^ of the East Angles, in 855. Of the real history of this monarch very little indeed is known. The events of his life, as recorded by the monkish writers, are either a tissue of fictions, or at least so distorted by Ihem, tliat it is impossible to distinguish truth from falsehood. Abbo Floriacencis was his first biographer. Coming about 985 on a visit to vSt. Dunstan, archbishop of Canterbury, he under- took to write the life of the saint from the narrative given from Hw^mory by Hiat prelate, who had heard tlie circumstance related to king Athelstiiii by a very old man, that had been one of Ed- mund's officers.^ The particulars of Edmund's life, previously to his elevation to the tln ono, are recorded by Galfridus de Fonti- bus,f and the relations of these writers form the ground-work of the histories of all succeeding biographers. According to these then, Edmund was the son of Alkmund, a Saxon prince, distinguished for valor, wisdom, and piety. Be- ing upon a pilgrim^ige at Rome, while performing his devotions, the sun was observed to shine with uncommon brilliance on hifl^ breast. This was hailed as a happy omen by a prophetess ; she promised Alkmund a son, whose fame should extend over the whole world. The prince returned home, and the same year his queen Siware made him a joyful father. In Nuremberg, his capital, Ed- mund is said to have been born in the year 841 . j Offa at this time swayed ♦This little work, which is said in an extract quoted in the Collect. Buriens. to have been written in tlie 7th year of Ethelred, is entitled, Vita et Pussio Sett Edmundi per AObmem Floriacensem Monachum. It is preserved among the MSS, in the Cotton Library, and is a very creditable specimen of the li- leratiite oi the age. f fn a little work De Pueritia Sancti Edmundi, supposed to ha,ve been wiit- len about 1150. The public library at Cambridge possesses a MS. copy of this performance. t Some writers, both ancient and modern, have expressed their doubts re- pecting this account of Edmund's parentage. Abbo merely observes that he sprang from royal ancestors, and a noble family of ancient Saxon*. Neitlier t SUFFOLK. 61 avrayed the sceptre of the East Angles, and havinj? no children, he resolved to make a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, tliere to suppli- cate the blessing of an heir. On his way to the Holy Land he visited his kinsman Alkniund, and was captivated hy the engaging raauuers, and amiable qualities of the youthful Edmund. On his departure, he presented to the prince a valuable ring, as a pl(je monks. 60 SUFFOLK. king, queen, and archbishops, was attested by thirty*two nobles, prelates and abbots. In 1032, the new church being finished,* was consecrated by Athelnorh, archbishop of Canterbury. Tiie body of the royal martyr was deposited in a splendid slirine, adorned with jewels and costly ornaments ; and Canute himself repairing hither to perform his devotions, offered his crown at the tomb of the saint. The mistaken piety of succeeding monarchs augmented the fame, the importance, and the wealth of the abbey of Bury ; but to none was it more indebted than to Edward the Confessor. This monarch granted to the abbot and convent the town of Mil- denhall, with its produce and inhabitants, the royalties of eight hundreds, together with the half hundred of Thingoe, and also those of all the villages situated in those eight Imndreds and a half which they previously possessed.f He likewise conferred the privilege of coining at a mint established within the precinct of the monastery. Edward often paid his devotions in person at the shrine of the royal martyr, and so great was his veneration for him, that he was accustomed to perform the last mile of the journey on foot like a common pilgrim. The • It appears that the third church was either entirely, or chiefly construct- ed of wood. t The occasion of this princely gift is thus related in the Collect. Buriens. In the first year of his reign the king came to Bury on St. Edmund's day ; and next morning seeing the young monks eating barley-bread, enquired of the abbot why those young men of his kinsman, as he called St. Edmund, were not better fed. " Because," replied the abbot, our possessions are too weak, to maintain them with stronger food." — *• Ask what you will," said the king, *' and I will give it you, that they may be better provided for, and better enabled to perform the service of God." The abbot, having consulted with his monks, asked of the king the manor of Mildeiihall, with its appurte- nances, and the jurisdiction of the eight hundreds and a half, with all the loyalties, afterwards called the Franchise. The king observed, that his request was indiscreet;, because the grant of these liberties would involve him and his successors in continual trouble ; that he would willingly have granted him three or four manors ; nevertheless, out of respect to his kinsman, he >ould grant the request, however indiscreet. SDPFOLK. 61 The establlsliment had now attained sucli wealth and splendor, that the monks resolved to provide a still more magniticcnt recep- tacle for tlie body of their saint than any in which it had hitherto been deposited. The church built by Ailwin was demolished, and another was erected of hewn stone, under the auspices of abbot Baldwin. The materials for this structure were brought by the permission of king William the Conqueror, free of expense fronfe the quarries of Barnack, in Northamptonshire ; and it was in a state of sufficient forwardness to receive the sacred remains in 1095. This was the last removal, as the church now erected continued to exist till the period of the dissolution. It could not be doubted, were no record left to attest its magni* ficence, that the plan, execution, and embellishments of this structure, corresponded with the princely revenues of the esta- Jblishment to which it belonged. Leland, who saw it in all it* glory, in speaking of this town, describes it in the following terms : — A city more neatly seated the s;in never saw, so curi- ously doth it hang upon a gentle descent, with a little river on the east side ; nor a monastery more noble, whether one considers its endowments, largeness, or unparalleled magnificence. One might even think the monastery alone a city ; so many gates it has, some whereof are brass : so many towers and a church, than which nothing can be more magnificent ; as appendages to which there are three more of admirable beauty and workmanship in the same church-yard.'* The abbey church, or church of St. Edmund, was 505 feet in length, the transept 212, and the west front 240. This last had two large side chapels, St. Faith^s and St. Catharine's, one on the north-west, and the otlier on the south-west, and at each end an octagon tower thirty feet each way.* The shrine of tlie saint was preserved in a semicircular chapel at tlie east end ; and on the north side of the choir was that of St. Mary, eighty feet long, and forty-two broad; and St. Mary in cryptis was 100 feet in length, eiglity • Prtrt of this front, \Yitli one of the towers, is still standing, as will b« notictd htTcnftcr. 62 fifUFFOLK. eighty in breadth, and supported by twenty-four pillars. Be- sides the dome, there was a high west tower over the middle aisle, and the whole fabric is supposed to have been equal in some re- spects in grandeur to St. Peter's at Rome. As to its height, no data are left to enable us to foi m an opinion.* The abbey was governed by an abbot, who had several great officers under him, as a prior, sub-prior, sacrist, and others ; and in its most prosperous state there were eighty monks, fifteen chap- lains, and one iiundred and eleven servants, attending within its walls. It had three grand gates for entrance ; and its lofty walls enclosed three other churches, besides the abbey church, several chapels, the cloisters, and offices of every kind. Among other privileges conferred on this abbey, we find that Edward the Confessor granted to abbot Baldwyn the liberty of coinage, which was confirmed by William the Conqueror. Ste- phen, in his seventeenth year, gave authority for two additional mints to be set up in Bury. Stow informs us, that there was one in tlie town in king John's time. Edward I. and II. also had mints at Bury ; and some of their pennies coined here are yet extant. The abbot of Bury enjoyed all the spiritual aud temporal privi- leges of the mitred abbots ; and in addition to them, some very important exclusive immunities. Of the latter kind, was the ex- emption from the ecclesiastical authority of the diocesan, so that none but the Roman pontiff, or his legate, could exercise any spiritual power within the limits of the abbot's jurisdiction. This privilege often involved him in violent disputes. As early as the reign of William the Conqueror, we find the abbot Baldwin engaged in a controversy on this subject with Herfastus, bishop of Hulm. * A very curious model of this church was to be seen some years ago at Mr. Tillot's, on the Angel-hill. It was ten feet long, five wide, and of pro- portional lieight, and had 280 windows;, and 300 niches, adorned with images, and other Gothic figures. The model of the shrine was ornamented with images, and crowns, and gilt, as in its original state. 'I'he twelve cha- pels belonging to this magnificent edifice were also represented. SUFFOLK. 63 Hulin, who liad announced his intention of removing tlie see to Bury. The abbot, alarmed at this threatened invasion of the privileges of his convent, applied to the king, and by his advice, repaired to Rome, where pope Alexander II. not only confirmed its former immunities and exemptions, by a bull dated at the Lateran, 6tlk Calend. Novemb. A. D. 1071. but also presented him with a porphyry altar for his cliurcli, with this extraordinary privilege, that if all the rest of the kingdom were under excomniuiiication, mass niight be there celehruled, unless expressly aiul by liaiue prohibited by his holiness. These favors only served to redouble the bishop*s exertions to carry his point, and he resolved to ti*y what the seductive eloquence of gold would effect ; while the monks, on the other hand, had recourse to still more persuasive meiuis« The issue of this affair is thus related by archdeacon Herman, who himself bore a part in the transaction. " The bishop riding one day, and conversing on the injuries which he medi- tated against tiie monastery, was struck upon the eyes by a branch, and a violent and painful suffusion of blood occasioned immediate blindness ; St. Edmund thus avenging himself, and punishing the temerity of the invaders of his rights. The prelate long remained entirely blind, and could obtain no relief. Coming in one morn- ing and commiserating his condition, I said to him ; " My lord. Bishop, your endeavors are useless, no collirium will avail ; you should seek the favor of God and St. Edmund. Hasten to abbot Baldwin, that his prayers to God and the saint may provide an efficacious medicine ! This counsel, at first despised, was at length assented to. I, Herman undertook the embassy, and exe- cuted it on the same day, the festival of St. Simon and St. Jude. The abbot benignantly granted the request ; and the feeble bishop came to the monastery, being graciously received by the abbot, and admonished to reflect, that as offences against God and St. Edmund were diminished, the medicine to be applied would more certainly alleviate his sufferings. They proceeded into the church, where, in the presence of the elder brethren, and certain peers of the realm, Hugo de Montfort, Roger Bigod, RicharcT, tlie son of Gilbert, 64 SUFFOLK. Gilbert, &:c. the bishop declared the cause of his misfortune; recites the injuries he had conceived against this holy place ; con- fesses himself culpable ; condemns his advisers under an anathema ; and binds himself by a vow to reject such counsels. He then ad- vances with sighs and tears to the foot of the altar ; places on it the pastoral staff ; prostrates himself before God and St. Edmund; performs his devotions, and receives absolution from the abbot and bretltten. Then having made trial of the abbot's medicine, and as I saw, by the application of cauteries and coUiriums, assisted by the prayers of the brethren, in a short time he returned per- fectly healed : only a small obscurity remained in the pupil of one eye as a memorial of his audacity."* A few years afterwards, however, this prelate, forgetful of hia professions, renewed the contest, which was not terminated till the king convoked a council at Winchester, in which the subject was fully discussed, and the claims of the abbot admitted by that august assembly. William at the same time granted a charter. Confirming all those of his predecessors, and subscribed by him- self, his queen, his three sons, two archbishops, thirteen bishops, and twenty abbots and nobles. In 1345, a contention not less violent, commenced on the same account, between the abbot, and William Bateman, bishop of Norwich, who claimed a right of subjecting the convent to ecclesi- astical visitation. King Edward III. by letters-patent, deter- mined in favor of the abbey, and commanded the bishop to desist from his attempt to violate its privileges. The prelate, however, disregarded this mandate, and excommunicated the messenger who served it upon him. The abbot now had recourse to the law ; a jury returned a verdict in his favor, and sentenced the bishop to pay tliirty talents, or 10,0001, the penalty attached to his of- fencje by the charter of Hardicanute. In subsequent proceedings this judgment was affirmed ; but though the bishop's temporalities were decreed to be held in the king's hands till the fine should be paid • Rc^istr. Rub. Collect. Barievs, p. S30. SUFFOLK. 65 paid, and a day was appointed to seize his* body, he found means of delay till the 25th of September, 1347, whert the arclibishop summoned a council at St. PauPs to decide the matter, and a com- promise was concluded between the contending parties. The bishop engaged not to molest the monastery in the enjoyment of its privileges, and on this condition was restored to his ecclesias- tical authority and temporalities The abbot of Bury was a spiritual parliamentary baron; he held synods in his own chapter-house, and appointed the pa- rochial clergy of the town. His temporal were not less impor- tant than his ecclesiastical prerogatives. He possessed the pow- er of trying and determining by his high-steward all causes within the franchise or liberty, which extended, as we have seen, over eight hundreds and a half : and in the town, and a mile round, he had the authority of cliief magistrate, and of inflicting capital punishment. No officer of the king could, without his permission, hold a court, or execute any office in Bury. As lord of the town, he claimed the right of ap- pointing the alderman, though it was afterwards agreed that the other burgesses composing the corporation should enjoy the privi- lege of electing that officer. Before he entered upon his functions however, he was expected to receive the abbot's confirmation, and to take the following oath : — Ye schall swere that ye schall here yow trewly and faithfully in the office of the aldermanscipe of this town of Bury, ay ens the abbot and the covent of this place and all her mynistris : ye schall here, kepe, and maintaine pees to yowre powere, and ye schall nor thing appropre noraccroche that longyth to the said abbot and covent, nor take upon the thyngis that long on to the office of the bayliscipp of the sayd town : also that ye shall not procure, be yow, nor be noon other, privyly nor openly, any thyng unlawful, that might be harme or damage on to the seyd abbot and covent, nor suffered to be done ; but that ye sphall be redy to meynteyn and defende them and there mynistris yn all the ryghts and customs that of dew long on to them, inasmuche Vol. XIV. F as SUFFOLK. as ye may leyfully do. Thees artycles, and poyntis ye shall observe and kepe the tym that ye stand in this office. So help you God and all his seynts and by this boke,"* This supreme authority exercised over the town by the abbot, was a cause of frequent dissention between him and the inhabit- ants, which sometimes terminated in the most violent outrages. The most remarkable of these disputes occcurred in 1327, when the townsmen, headed by their alderman and chief burgesses, and having collected 20,000 persons from the neighboring towns and villages, made an attack upon the monastery and its possessions, and threatened the total destruction of the esta- blishment. Having demolished the gates, doors, and windows, and beaten and wounded tlie monks and servants, they broke open the chests and coffers, out of which they took great quantities of rich plate, books, vestments, and other vahiables, besides five hun- dred pounds in ready money, and three thousand florins. They also carried away three charters of Canute, four of Hardicanute, one of Edward the Confessor, two of Henry I. three of Henry III. twelve papal bulls, with several deeds, written obligations and ac- knowledgments for money due to the convent. Great part of the monastery was reduced to ashes, and many of the manors and granges belonging to it in Bury and its vicinity, shared the same fate. The abbot being at this time in London, the rioters seized and confined Peter Clopton, the prior, and about twenty of the monks, whom they afterwards compelled, in the name of the whole chapter of the convent, to execute, under the capitular seal, a deed, constituting the burgesses a guild or corporation. Ihey also forced them to sign an obligation for the payment of ten thou- sand pounds to certain of the townsmen, to discharge them from all debts due to the monastery, and to engage not to proceed against them at law for any damage done to the monastery. The king being informed of these transactions, a military force was sent to suppress the disturbance. The alderman and twenty-four of the bur-^ gesses * Yates's Hist, of Bury, p. 94. copied from a ledger-book of the abbej SUFFOLK, 67 gesses were imprisoned ; thirty carts full of the rioters were taken prisoners to Norwich ; nineteen of the most notorious otferiders were executed, and one was pressed to death, because he refused to put himself upon his trial. Thirty-two parochial clergymen were convicted as abettors. Tlie enquiries that arose out of this affair occupied near five years, the final decision being given by king Edward III. in council in 1332. The justices commissioned to investigate the amount of the damages sustained by the abbey, had estimated them at the enormous sum of 140,0001. but at the king's request the abbot remitted to the offenders 122,3331. 6s. 8d. and at length forgave them the remainder, on condition of their fu- ture good behavior. All the deeds and charters taken from the mo- nastery were to be restored ; all the instruments and obligations obtained by force, were declared null and void, and were to be de- livered up to the abbot. Fox states, that Berton, the alderman, Herling, thirty-two priests, thirteen women, and 138 other per- sons of the town, were outlawed ; and that some of these, to re- venge the abbot^s breach of promise, surprised him at the mandr of Chevington. Having bound and shaved him, they conveyed him to London, and thence over the sea into Brabant, where they kept him a prisoner. He was at length rescued by his friends, who had discovered the place of his confinement. The monastery of St. Edmund's Bury remained 519 years in the possession of the Benedictine monks, and during that time was governed by thirty-three abbots. Its regular revenues consisting of fifty-two knight's fees and three-quarters, together with the royalties of the eight hundreds and a half, were valued at the dissolution by the commissioners at 23361. 16s. The income of the abbey must, however, have been most materially under-rated; and besides this, the monks possessed many sources of revenue which could never be accurately ascertained. An intelligent writer of the last century calculates that all the possessions and perqui- quites of this abbey would at that time (1725) be worth not less than 200,0001. per annum : and from the astonishing increase in the value of landed property and agricultural produce, since that F 2 period. 68 SUFFOLK. period, it may safely be assumed that at this moment they woulA yield a yearly income of at least double the above amount. When Henry VIII. resolved to replenish his exhausted treasury, by seizing the possessions of the monastic establishments, the abbey of Bury was included in the general destruction. Some in- effectual struggles were made by the abbot and convent, to avert the impending blow. In 153G, they settled upon secretary Cromwell and his son, an annuity of ten pounds, payable out of the rents of the manor of Harlowe, in Essex. But neither this pen- sion, nor the full acknowledgment of the king's supreme eccle- siastical authority, availed them any thing. On the 4th of November 1539, tlie abbot and his brethren, were compelled to surrender the monastery and all its possessions to his majesty ; and driven from their splendid mansion and ample revenues, to subsist upon a scantj stipend. The official report of the commissioners appointed to visit this abbey at the dissolution, states that they found here " a riche shryne which was very combcrous to deface. We have taken,'* they continue, " in the seyd monastery in golde and silver 5000 markes and above, besyds as well a riche crosse with emerelds, as also dyvers and sundry stones of great value ; and yet we have left the churche, abbott, and convent, very well furneshed with plate of sylver necessary for the same*." In another report signed " John Ap Rice," and dated " from Burie, 5th Nov. 1539," he says : " As touching the convent we could geate little or no complaints amonge theym, although we did use moche diligens in oure examinacion; and therby with some other arguments gathered of their examinacions formerly^ I believe and suppose they had confedered and compacted be- foure oure comyng, that they shoulde disclose nothynge ; and yet it is confessed and proved, that there was here such frequence of women comyn, and reassorting to this monasterie, as to no place more. Amongest the reliques we founde moche vanitie and • MS. Cotton. Lib. SUFFOLK. and supcrsticion — as the coles that St. Lawrence wasto&tcd withal ; the paryng of St. Edmund's naylls, St. Thomas of Canter. penneknylF and his bootes ; and divers skulls for the head-ache, peces of ther Hoiie Cross able to make a hole crosse ; of other reliques for rayne, and certaine other supersticious usages; for avoiding of weeds growing- in corn with such other/'* In touching upon the superstitious practices, and flagrant impos- tures carried on at this monastery, we must not omit to mention the singular ceremony of the procession of the white bull. The sacrist of the monastery, as often as he let the lands near the town then and still called Haberdon, annexed this condition, that the tenant should provide a white bull, whenever a matron of rank, or any other should come out of devotion, or in consequence of a vow, to make the oblations of the white bull, as they were denominated, at the shrine of St. Edmund. On this occasion, the animal adorned with ribbons and g arlands, was brought to the south gate of the monastery, and led along Church-gate, Guildhall, and Abbey-gate streets, to the great west gate, the lady all the while keeping close to him, and the monks and people forming a numerous ca- valcade. Here the procession ended ; the animal was conducted back to his pasture, while the lady repaired to St. Edmund's shrine to make her oblations, as a certain consequence of which, she was soon to become a mother. As foreign ladies, desirous of issue, might have found it inconvenient to repair hither in person, to assist at these ceremonies, they were certain to prove equally efficacious if performed by proxy. In a deed, a copy of which is given by Haukins,f John Swaffham, sacrist of the monastery of F3 St. • MS. Cotton. Lib. t William Haukins, a school-raaiter of Hadleigh, in this county, wiio in his Corolla varia, a very scarce book, printed at Cambridge in 1684, has given a humorous account of the ceremonies of the procession, in not inele- gant Latin verse. He observes, that not a century had then elapsed, since the processions ceased, and the tradition of them was still generally prevalent, lu h'i9 work, he has introduced three leases, that ountuin tl^e condition above specified 70 SUFFOLK. St. Edmund'8 Bury, certifies all Christian people, tliat on the 2d June 1474, three religious persons, whom he names, of the city of Ghent, came and offered, as had been accustomed of old time, at the shrine of the blessed King, Virgin, and Martyr, St. Edmund, in the presence of several reputable people, and of the said martyr, one white bull, for the accomplishment of the longing of a certain noble lady fin relevamen desiderii cujusdam nohilis domince.) Before the dissolution. Bury contained an inferior monastic establishment of Grey Friars, or Franciscans. About 1255 or 6 some brethren of this order came to the town during a vacancy in the abbacy, and having procured a situation in the north part of Bury, began to perform religious exercises. The monks, indig- nant at this intrusion, and finding remonstrance of no effect, de-* molished the buildings and expelled the friars, who applied to the court of Rome for redress : when Pope Alexander IV. reproved the monks, and ordered the friars to be put in possession of an estate in the west part of Bury. The monks still continued firm in their resistance to this encroachment on their privileges ; so that king Henry III. who with many of his nobility had espoused the cause of the Franciscans, was obliged to send down his chief justice to Bury, and to establish them by force. Upon this, they lost no time in constructing suitable religious edifices. The pope soon after dying, the monks renewed their application to his successor, and seconding it with an argument which seldom failed of persuading the specified. To one of tliem, dated 25th April, 1553, is appended the seal of the monastery, of which he has given a neat engraving. On one side is re-, pr^sente^J St, Edmund, with his crown and sceptre, seated under a gothic ca- nopy, with a bishop standing on each side, and this legend, 4Gmine stipa- TVS SEDET tnc REX PON Ti FicATvs ! on the reverse, in the upper part, ap- pears the same Wng tied to a tree, transfixed with numerous arrows, while se- veral persons, armed with bows on either side are taking aim at his body. In the lower part, he is kneeling, and a man has just cut off his head close to which sits its brute protector. The legend is : sionvm secretvm cap 'li sANcxi EDMVNDi REGIS ET MARTiRis. Ad cngraving of the same seal is al- so given in Yates's History of Bur^. (9.IIFF0LK. 71 the papal court, Urban IV. revoked the bulls of his predecessor, commanded the friars to demolish their buildiny^s, and on pain of excommunication, to leave Bury within one mouth. The friars had not courtjige to withstand this injunction ; but publicly re- nouncinif all right and title to their estate in the town, the abbot and convent assigned them part of the monastic possessions in Babberwell, where they erected some handsome edifices. The site of thi^ religious establishment is still called the Friary. At the reformation there were in Bury, five hospitals, St. Sa- vior's at North-gate, St. Peter's at Risby-gate, St. John's at South-gate, St. Stephen's and St. Nicholas' at East-gate ; one college, called Jesus college, in College street, consisting of a warden, and six associates, and the following chapels, whose names and situations are yet known, tfiough the buildings have long been demolished : St. Mary's, at East-gate bridge, another at West-gate, and a third at Risby-gate; St. Michael's, in the Iftfirmary; St. Andrew's, in the cemetery of the monks; St. John's, in the hill ; and St. John's ad fontem; St. Anne's in cryp- tis; St. Thomas's, near St. Savior's; St. Lawrence's, in the court yard ; St. Gyles's, near the nave of the church ; St. Petro- nili's, within the South-gate ; St. Botolph's, witiiin Southgate- street; St. Edmund's, or Round chapel in the church-yard; and St. Denis's, besides the Hermitage, at West-gate, and thirteen other chapels, the sites of wliich are unknown, on account of the many alterations made in the town since that time, by fire and other accidents. Thus it must have contained upwards of forty churches and chapels, most of which were anjply endowed, and to- gether afforded subsistence and employment to forty or fifty ec- clesiastics, under a deacon and archdeacon. During the prosperity of the abbey, it comprehended within its precincts, besides the conventual church, three others, St. Mar- gaiet's, St. Mary's, and St. James's. The former has long ceased to be appropriated to religious purposes, and is now used as the town -hall. The others are the churches of the two parishes into which Bury is divided. F 4 St. Mary's, 72 SUFFOLK. St. Mary's was first erected in 1005. It began to be rebuilt in its present state in 1424, and was finished about the year 1433. This structure is 139 feet long, exclusive of the chancel, and 67 J in breadth ; the chancel is 74 feet by 68. It is divided into three aisles, separated from each other by two rows of slender and ele- gant columns. The roof of the nave, constructed in France, and put together after it was brought to England, is admired for its lightness and elegance. The finely carved figure of angels, sup- porting the principals of the roof, fortunately, from their height, escaped the fury of the puritanical zealots of the seventeenth century. The north porch of this church, on which is inscribed, orate pro animahus Johannis Notyngham, et Isabelle uxoris sua, and particularly the cul de lampe, is of curious workman- ship. Previously to the reformation. Si. Mary's was much distin- guished for its numerous altars,* images, and pictures. At the dissolution of the Abbey, this church, as well as St. James's was included in the general system of plunder, both of them being stripped of plate and other ornaments, then valued at about 4801. Both likewise contained, numerous inscriptions, and effigies in brass ; but these, as we learn fi'om the town books, were, in 1644, torn off by the church -wardens, and sold for their private emolu- ment : so that the monuments of the highest antiquity in these churches are much defaced. On the north side of the communion table in St. Mary's church, was formerly a plain altar monument for Mary Tudor, third daugh- ter of king Henry VIT. This princess, who honoured the town of Bury with her especial favor and protection, had by her beauty and accomplishments, won the heart of the Duke of Suffolk, one of the most distinguished characters at the court of Henry VIII. The shining qualities of the duke, had produced a reciprocal at- tachment on the part of the princess ; but policy, and the etiquette of * Part of one of these, supposed to be our lady's altar, is still to be seen against the south wall. SUFFOLK. 73 of* courts, forbade their union, and in 1514, consigned the young and beautiful Mary, to the arms of tiie aged and infirm Louis XII. of France. To that country she was accordingly sent, with a magnificent retinue ; and at the tournaments held in celebration of the marriage, the duke of Suffolk signalized himself above all his competitors, for dexterity, gallantry, and valour. This un- natural union was not of long duration ; on the death of the French monarcli, the duke was sent to conduct the princess back to her native country, where soon after her arrival, she, in 1517, bestowed her hand on the object of her first affection. This princess, dying at Westhorpe, in this county, in 1533, was first interred in the great church of the monastery, on the dissolution of which, her remains were removed hither. Her tomb was sim- ple and unadorned ; it was for some time supposed to be only a cenotaph, but on opening it in 1731, a covering of lead, evi- dently inclosing a human body, was found, with this inscription on the breast : Mary, Queen of France, 1533. Notwithstanding this discovery, the tomb continued without any external memorial of the rank of the person deposited beneath it, till 1758, when Dr. Symonds, of Bury, had it repaired at his own expence, and a marble tablet inserted, with an inscription, recording the parti- culars stated above. In the middle of the chancel, lies interred John Reeve, who be- came abbot of Bury in 1511, and was obliged to surrender the abbey to the king, in November 1539, on which, an annuity of 500 marks was assigned him. He retired to a large house, at the south-west corner of Crown street, which has undergone less al- teration than any other, of that age, in the town, and where in 1768, his arms were still to be seen in one of the windows. Cha- grin and vexation probably shortened his life, as he died here on the 31st of March, fallowing. His grave was, originally, co- vered with a very large flat stone, of marble, embellished with the arms of the abbey, impaling those of his family, and also his portraiture in pontificals : but it was broken to make room for a new one, to cover a Mr. Sutton, who was buried in the 9 same SUFFOLK. same graVe;* On the old stone, as we are informed by Wecver, vas a. Latin inscription to the following effect: — " Here lie the bones of the man, whom Bury formerly owned its lord and abbot; liis name John, born at Melford in Suffolk, his family and father Citlitid Reeve.f He was intrepid, prudent, learned, and affable, up- right, and a lover of his vow, and his religion:^ who, when he had seen the 31st of the reign of Henry VIII. died the 31st of March following. May God spare his soul ! 1540." At the east end of the south-aisle, a well executed altar monu- ment, for John Baret, who died in 1643, exhibits a striking proof of the skill of some of our ancient artists, in the durability of the red and black substances, with which the letters, engraven in different parts, were filled up. Over the monument is a wooden ceiling • " Abbot Reeve's grave-stone of grey marble, which formerly had his full *ffigy in brass, with a mitre on his head, and a crosier in his hand, with four . t Deicriptiou of Bury St. Edmund's, p. 69. 7$ SUFFOLK. of seven centuries, even when partly laid bare by the crumblmg' away of the softer gritty particles of the stone. A chapel of Jesus was originally intended to have occupied the space between St. James's church, and this tower. On the west side of the Church-gate, near the foundation, are two curious basso relievos in stone. That on the left, represents mankind in their fallen state, under the dominion of Satan, by the figures of our first parents with a serpent twined round them, and the Devil in the back ground insulting Adam. The other em- blematic of the deliverance of man from his bondage, exhibits God the Father with flowing hair, and a long parted beard, sitting triumphantly within a circle, surrounded by cherubim. This piece of sculpture which appears to be of considerable anti- quity, is in good preservation, except that the principal figure has lost the right hand. The capitals of some of the pillars in the in- terior of this gateway, likewise exhibit grotesque figures, which appear to have formed part of the original building. Time has lately made considerable impression upon this vene- rable edifice. Wide fissures are conspicuous in various parts, es- pecially on the side next the church-yard ; and on the other it is said to be twelve inches out of the perpendicular. In consequence of these appearances, the modern belfry has been taken down ; the bells with all the wood-work, have been removed from the in- terior, and the clock from the outside, for the purpose of repairs. Unless means be speedily adopted to preserve this relic of the chaster style of ancient architecture, it seems highly probable that the safety of the inhabitants will soon require its total demo- lition. The two church-yards, which in fact form but one, are kept in excellent order: an alley of lofty poplars runs diagonally across them, and makes a very pleasant promenade. Nearly in the centre is a small plot of ground inclosed with high iron railing, and planted with trees of different kinds. In this place is the receptacle provided by the late James Spink, esq. banker of Bury, for himself and his family. The spot where he lies in- 6 terred SUFFOLKl 79 teired, is marked by a plain marble tablet, with this inscription : —To the memory of John Spink, esq., who died Oct. 22, 1794, aged 65 years, this tablet is inscribed by his executors, not to re^ cord virtues whicli have raised a lastino monument in the heart* of those who knew him, but to inform the strant^er that under this humble stone the constant and unwearied friend of human nature in distress, lies buried, not forgotten." Within the same inclosure, is a plain upright stone, terminating in a pyramid, with the figure of the cross carved upon it, and underneath the following inscription: " Here lies interred thfe body of Mary Haselton, a young maiden of this town, born of Roman Catholic parents, and virtuously brouij:ht up ; who being in the act of prayer repeating her vespers, was instantaneously killed by a flash of lightning, Aug. 16. 1785, aged nine years." The remains of the west end of St. Edmund's clmrch, which bound the church-yard on one side, at present exhibit a singular and motley spectacle. One of the octagon towers which formerly terminated either end, is still standing, and has been converted into a stable. Three arches, once the entrances to the threft aisles, have been filled up with modern buildings, and converted into as many neat houses, while the intermediate rugged por- tions of the original massive wall, which is supposed to have been once faced with .narble, has braved the ravages of not much less than three centuries. The antiquary will probably be disposed to regret this profanation of these venerable relics. A lady of Bury^ actuated by this sentiment, was some time since desirous of pur- chasing these ruins for the purpose of demolishing the moderft erections, and restoring them to their former state ; but probably her antiquarian zeal was damped by the magnitude of the sacrifice, which the completion of her wishes would have required. In the path-way, between the two churches, an atrocious at- tempt was made, in 1721, by Arundel Coke, esq. barrister^ with the assistance of one Woodboume, a hired assassin, to murder his brother-in-law, Edward Crisp, esq. in the hope of possessing hi* property. He had invited him, his wife and family to supper^ and 80 SUFFOLK. and at niglit, on pretence of going to see a mutual friend, he led him into the church-yard, where on a given signal, Woodbourne rushed upon Mr. Crisp, and cut liis head and face in a terrible manner, with a hedging-bill. Leaving him on the ground for dead. Coke returned to the company as if nothing had happened. Mr. Crisp, however, was not killed, and on recovering himself, mustered sufficient strength to crawl back to the house of this in- human relative, where his appearance, so cruelly mangled and covered with blood, excited the utmost horror and amazement^ and confounded the author of the barbarous deed. It was not long before he was discovered, and with his accomplice brought to trial, on the statute for defacing and dismembering, called the Coventry Act. Mr. Crisp having survived this outrage. Coke was so good a lawyer, and so hardened a villain, as to hope to save himself by pleading that he intended not to deface, but to kill. This justification, little inferior in atrocity to the crime .itself, availed him nothing, and sentence of death was passed upon him, and the partner of his guilt. Shortly before the day appointed for his execution, the unhappy convict requested of the high sheriff for the county. Sir Jasper Cullum, that if he thought there were no hopes of pardon, he might suffer early in the morning, to avoid the crowd likely to be collected by such a spectacle. His desire was complied with. Whether it were on account of the great concourse expected to attend on tliis occasion, or that a rescue was apprehended, an extraordinary guard was provided, as appears from the charge of two guineas for that service among the expences*. In the church-yard stands Clopton*s hospital, a handsome brick building, with projecting wings, founded and endowed in 1730, agreeably to the will of the late Foley Clopton, M.D.f as an asylum • Cullum's Hawsted, p. 163. t Tliis gentleman, in whom the name became extinct, was descended from a younger brancli of a family formerly of considerable note in this county. The elder resided for a considerable time at Kentwell-Hall, near Melford, and the other had for some time been seated at Lyston, in Essex, about two miles otr. SUFFOLK. 81 asylum for six poor men, and as many women, three of either st-x out of each parish. They must be widowers and widows, upwards of sixty years of age, who have been housekeepers, paid scot and lot, and received no parochial relief. The front exhibits tlic arms of the founder: a Latin inscription below records the object of this institution, and underneath, in very large letters, are these words : DORENAVANT OUBLIEZ N£ DOY. On the same side of the chnrch-yaid with the hospital, is a neat new building, the residence of John Benjafield, esq. Thift house might perhaps have passed unnoticed, had it not been for a violation not merely of decency, but of what we have been taught lo regard as sacred, which has lately been committed by its pro- prietor. I allude to the inclosure of a corner of the church-yard in the front of this mansion. And for what purpose has this peace* ful sanctuary of the dead been invaded ? for what purpose have their bones been disturbed, and perhaps the only remaining memo- rials of their existence been swept fiom the face of the earth ? Why, forsooth, that a shrubbery might conceal the house from the gaze of inquisitive eyes, or hide from the view of its owner the numerous mementos of perishable humanity. This appropriation of part of the public property, for such in every point of view must a church-yard be considered, was, I am told, permitted by the corporation. If this information be correct, as there is every reason to believe, I know not which to admire most, the impu- dence of the demand, or the indecorum of the concession. On the opposite side of the church-yard stands the shire hall, or sessions house, where the assizes for the county are held. It is a building of modern erection, on the site of the ancient church of St. Margaret, and contains two convenient courts, in which criminal and civil causes are tried at the same*time. The old building, together with a piece of ground, was given by Thomas Badby, the same I presume, who, in 1560, purchased the site of the abbey, and other estates, granted in the same year, by queen Vol. XIV. G Elizabeth. off. That estate the doctor, who died a bachelor, left t© his only sister, luar- ried to Edward Crispe, esq. of Bury. 82 SUFFOLK. Elizabeth, to John Eyre) to be applied to the present purpose; and the profits arising from them to be employed for the benefit of the inhabitants. The Abbey-gate, one of the principal ornaments of Bury, was the grand entrance to the monastery, and opened into the great court-yard, in front of the abbot's palace. It is the only relic now left to attest the former magnificence of this establishment. Such is the excellence of its materials and workmanship, that it is still in a state of much more perfect preservation than might bs expected from the number of years which it has stood exposed to the ravages of the elements, without roof and, without repairs^. Upon the destruction of the original entrance to the abbey, in the violent assault ef the townsmen in 1327, this gate was erected upon a plan, eombining elegance with utility. Its form approaches a square, being foity-one feet by fifty, and sixty-two in height. The architecture is of the best period of tlie gothic style. The embellishments, arranged with taste, and executed with precision, are much more numerous than in edifices of an earlier date, but not in such profusion as m the later and more florid style. The west front, next the town, is divided into two horizontal compartments, by an ornamented band, and perpendicularly into three, consisting of a centre, and two turriated projecting wings. The whole is superbly ornamented with devices, and niches for statues; the heads or groined work, forming the canopies to these niches, are elegant; and the pilasters of those in the centre and in both wings, terminate in well-wrought pinnacles. The spandrils of the arcli, above the gate- way, are adorned with two quatrefofl bosses or medallions; and over them, near the top of the building, are two others, each representing two interlaced triangles. Most ef these embellishments are in excellent preservation. The pillars of the gate-way are composed of clustered cylinders; the capitals are simple, and chiefly the Gothic wreath. The uounter-arcli of the entrance is surmounted by an undulated arch or pediment, springing from the external capitals. Below the f mVtttlod band, which divides the building horizontally, is a ca- vetto SUFFOLK, 83 vello moulding, ornamented with several figures, most of which are defaced ; but a lion, a dragon, and a bull worried by dogs, may still be distinguished. The figure of the buU is eleven inchea in length. In the wall and arch is a groove for the reception of a portcullis. In the south-west and north-west angles were circular stair-cases, one of which is yet so perfect, that it is possible, with care, to ascend to the platform whicli runs round the top of the building; and has five embrasures at either end, and seven on each side. These stair- cases were originally surmounted by octagon towers, fourteen feet high; but one of these having been blown down at the beginning of last century, the other was soon afterwards demolished. The area is unequally divided by a stone partition. Its arch was furnished with brass gates, the hinges of which yet remain. The entrances to the staircases are in the interior division of the area, so that, if an enemy had forced the portcullis, and obtained possession of the anti-gateway, the defendants would still have commanded tlie ac- cess to the upper part of the fortress, whence they might have greatly annoyed the assailants. All these precautions, as well as the want of windows next the town, indicate the anxiety of the monks to prevent a repetition of those outrages which occasioned the necessity of erecting this edifice. The eastern or interior division forms a cube of about twenty-eight feet. Its walls arc de- corated with light and elegant tracery, and with the arms of Ed- ward the Confessor, Thomas de Brotherton, earl of Norfolk, and Holland, duke of Exeter. Over this division, a space ef nearly equal dimensions appears to have been a room. Vestiges of its roof, floor, and fire-place, are still evident. The north and south sides have each two small windows. In the east end is a grand window, overlooking the abbey-grounds, and adorned with tracery of peculiar richness and elegance. This side of the abbey-gate is extremely plain and simple, its only embellishments being three niches on each side, corresponding with those in the projecting vings of the west front: but the principal object which claims G 2 attention 84 SUFFOLK. attention here, is the beautiful arch, the symmetry and elegant proportions of ^hicli are truly worthy of admiration. This gate opens into the abbey-grounds, still surrounded with the ancient lofty wall, and containing some massive detached frag- ments of the magnificent edifices, which once occupied part of their site. In the garden, included within this precinct, specimens of various pieces of antiquity have at different times been discovered. It is known that in the conventual church were interred many persons of high distinction, among the rest, Alan Fergaunt, earl of Richmond*; Thomas de Brotherton, earl of Norfolk, half brother to king Edward II.; Thomas Beaufort, duke of Exeter, uncle to king Henry V. ; Mary, widow of Louis XII. of France, and sister to Henry VIII. whose remains were afterwards removed to St Mary's cliurch; sir William Elmham, sir William Spenser, sir William Tresil, knights. Many inhabitants of the monastery, re- markable for their learning and piety, were also buried here; but of these none was more celebrated than John Lidgate, whose poe- tical talents gained him the universal admiration of his contem- poraries. In 1772, some labourers being employed in breaking up a part of the ruins of this churcli, discovered a leaden coffin, which liad been inclosed in an oak case, then quite decayed. It contained an embalmed body, as fresh and entire as at the time of interment, surrounded by a kind of pickle, and tlie face covered with a cere- cloth. The features, the nails of the fingers and toes, and the hair, which was brown, with some mixture of grey, appeared as perfect as ever. A surgeon hearing of this discovery, went to examine the body, and made an incision on the breast ; the flesh cut as firm as that of a living subject, and there was even an ap- pearance of blood. The skull was sawed in pieces, and the braviv^ though wasted, was inclosed in its proper membrane. At this time the corpse was not in the least offensive, but on being ex- posed to the air, it soon became putrid. The labourers, for the sake of the lead, removed the body from its receptacle, and threw it SUFFOLK. it among the rubbish. It was soon found, but by what means we are not informed, that the corpse which had been treated with sucli indecency, was the remains of Thomas Beaufort, son of John of Gaunt, duke of Lancaster, by his third duchess, lady Catharine Swinford, grandson of king Edward III. half-brother to Henry IV. by whom he was created duke of Exeter, knight of the garter, admiral and governor of Calais, and lord high chancellor of Eng; land. At the battle of Agincourt he led the rear-guard of the English army ; afterwards bravely defended Harfleur against the French; was guardian to Henry VI. and dying at East Greenwich, on the 1st of January, 1427, was, in compliance with his will, interred in the abbey church of Bury St. Edmund's, near his duchess, at the entrance of the chapel of our lady, close to the wall on the north side of the choir. On this discovery, the mang- led remains were enclosed in a strong oak coffin, and buried at the foot of the large north-east pillar, which formerly assisted to support the belfry. In the spring of 1783, on breaking up some foundations in the north wall of St. Edmund^s church, near the chapter-house, were found four antique heads, cut out of single blocks of free- stone, and somewhat larger than the natural proportion. On the subject of these heads, Mr. Yates* quotes the various opinions of antiquaries, who he says have viewed them, but how any person with his eyes open, could take them for " Roman divinities," or for " the decorations of some temple, the ruins of which, might afterwards be employed in constructing the church it is scarcely possible to conceive. Nothing can be more evident, even froni the inspection of the engraving given in his own work, than that two of tliese were representations of St. Edmund's head, accom- panied by the leg of its brute protector. It is more than probable, that the other two, though without that striking appendage, were rude memorials of the same subject. In February 1560, queen Elizabeth, by letters patent under the great seal, granted to John Eyre, esq. in consideration of the sum G3 Qf ♦ Hist, of Bury, p. 9. 86 SUFFOLK. of 41*21. 19s. 4d. paid by him, all the site, circuit, and precinct of the late monastery of Bury St. Edmunds, then recently dissolved, besides other premises and lands in the neighbourhood, formerly belonging to the abbot and convent. They afterwards passed into the hands of various purchasers, till in 1720, they were con- veyed for the sum of 28001. to the use of major Richardson Pack. That gentleman soon afterwards assigned the premises to sir Jermyn Davers, in whose family they continued till it became extinct a few years since, by the death of sir Charles Davers, bai t. The Guildhall, gives name to the street in which it stands. Its appearJtnce certainly does not bespeak a public edifice. The ancient porch of flint, brick, and stone, are totally incongruous with the modern alterations in the body of the building ; to which pointed windows, and an embattled parapet, would have given consistency. In the chamber over the entrance, the archives of the town are kept under three keys, which are in the custody of the recorder, the town-clerk, and the alderman for the time being. Here the town sessions are held, corporation members chosen, and other business of a similar nature transacted. Bury seems very early to have enjoyed the benefit of a free- school; for abbot Sampson in 1198, erected a school-house, and settled a stipend on the master, who was required to give gra- tuitous instruction to forty poor boys. This building stood near the present shire-house, and th« street received from it the name of School-hail-street, which it still retains. The Free Gram" mar-schooly founded by king Edward VI. sterns to have been but a revival of the former ancient institution. Its original situation was in East-gate-street, but that being found inconvenient, a new school-house was erected in North-gate-street, by public contri- bution. The bust of the founder stands over the door, in the front of the building. There are forty scholars on the foundation, and it is free for all the sons of towns-people, or inhabitants. The number of pupils of the latter class amounts to about eighty. This s * and they have a chaplain and a surgeon, wiUi a yearly salary of sixty pounds each. Within the bounds of Bury, a very elegant seat was built in 1773, from a plan of Mr, Adam, by John Symonds, LL. D. pro- fessor of modern history and languages, in the university of Cam- bridge, who gave it the appellation of St. Edmund's Hill, from the beautiful eminence on which it stands. Few spots in Suflfolk,^ observes Mr. Gough,f command so extensive and pleasing, a prospect. A little to the southward of the town, a brick edifice, with two small detached buildings has been erected since the commencement ©f the present war, as a magazine for arms and ammunition. The necessity of such an establishment at Bury, where no troops are stationed, and where no apprehension certaiidy need be enter- tained of any sudden surprise, may justly be questioned. The truth seems to be, that the corporation of Bury w^anted a place for one of their number, and in humble imitation of another assembly, recommended * It wouM be an injustice lo a desepving individual, not to quote the cha- racter given of tlie present keeper, Mr. John Orr'idge, by Mr. Nield, wJuj says : " in the appointment of a gaoler, I consider the county particularly fortunate in their choice of Mr. Orndge ; who, to great abilities, unites firi»- Bess and humanity in the discharge of his important trust." t Camden, .VoF. IJ. 161. SUFFOLK. Ttcommended tliis measure, that he might be gratified with the sinecure office of store-keeper. The town had five gates till about forty years ago, when they were all taken down by order of the corporation, to afford a more convenient passage (or carriages ; and at each of these gates tliere was formerly either an hospital or some religious foundation^ or both, as at East, South, and Risby gates. Beyond the North gate, on the east side, and contiguous to the Thetford road, are the ruins of St. Saviour^s Hospital, the most celebrated in Bury, and which must have been a very extensive building, if, as we are told, the parliament assembled here in 1446. The entrance seems to have been originally adorned with a stately portal ; the spa<;e for the entrance, with the fragments of a large window above it, yet remain. Part of the wall which surrounded the hospital and its appurtenances, is also still standing. The arches in the east wall of the monastery, described by Grose,* as well as the East gate itself, are now demolished. These arches were of considerable antiquity, being evidently as old as the wall itself, which was erected before 1221, by abbot Sampson, to inclose a piece of ground which he had pur- chased there for a vineyard. Tiie use of them was to serve as a water-course, and perhaps to form an occasional foot-bridge, by means of planks laid from one projecting buttress to another, there being an arched passage left between them and the wall, to the west of which was another bridge for foot-passengers. Not far from the east gate stood St. Nicholas' hospital, some remains of which, such as the original t^ntrance, and one window at present filled up on the north side, are yet to be seen. The edifice itself is now converted into a farm-house; and at a small distance to the west stands the old chapel, formerly belonging to the hospital, an extensive building, having seven buttresses on each side, but not remarkable either for beauty or elegance, now transformed into a J)arn and stable. On the north side of the road, between East- bridge ♦ An4iq. Voi. V. p. 56. 92 SUFFOLK. bridge and this hospital, a few fragments of old wall mark the site of that of St. Stephen. Jiist without the South gate was. the hospital of St. Petronilia. Though this structure has long been demolished, tiie cliapel which belonged to it is still pretty entire; its east window, of beautiful tracery, was to be seen in 1810, but is now walled up. This once sacred edifice is at present applied to the purposes of a malt- house. The hospital stood on the south side of this chapel, and from its site appears to have been an extensive building ; part of the walls, now serving for fences, yet remain. A small piece of ground between the hospital and chapel, was probably the ceme- terj^ of the establishment, many human bones having been dug up there. At the West-gate formerly stood Our Lady's chapel, of which there are no visible remains. An hermitage contiguous to it is now transformed into a cow-house. Close to Risby-gate was formerly a chantry, called Stone Chapel> the neatly cemented Hint-stone walls of which excite admiration. It is now the Cock public-house. At a small distance from this spot is an octangular stone, which once served as the pedestal of a cross. Tradition reports, that about the year 1677, the cavity at the top, in which the cross was erected, being filled with water, the country-people who resorted to Bury-market, then held with- out Risby-gate, because the sinall-pox raged in the town, were accustomed to wash their money, lest it should convey the infec- tion to the neighbouring villages. At the time of the Reformation there was also in Bury a reli- gious establishment, called Jesus College, which probably gave name to College-street, in which it was situated. It was founded by king Edward IV. in the 21st year of his reign, and consisted of a warden, and six associates or priests. This building is now converted into a work-house. The Vine-fields, eastward of Bury, command a charming view of the town, and particularly of the church-gate, the abbey-gate, and grounds. This spot derives its name from the vineyard be- longing SUFFOLK. §3 longing to the abbey, which was situated on this declivity. It was purchased about the end of the 12th century, by Robert dc Gravele, sacrist of the convent, as we are informed, " for tlie solace of invalids, and of his friends," and was by him inclosed with a stone wall. The vestiges of the parterres may still be traced here.* Bury, although sealed on two rivers, cannot boast of its com- munications by water. The river Larke has indeed been rendered navigable to within a mile of the town, but the inhabitants derive little benefit from it, in proportion to what they might receive from its extension. All hopes of this are however extinguished, by the exorbitant demands of the corporation for permission to carry it into their jurisdiction. A few years since, a project was fomied for constructing another navigable canal from Bury to Manning- tree, in Essex. The intended line was surveyed by Mr. Rennie ; and, including a tunnel of two miles, which would have been re- quired, near Bradfield, the expence was estimated at seventy thousand pounds. The plan met with the general approbation of the inhabitants of Bury, and the country through which the canal would have passed, as they were satisfied respecting the important advantages to be derived from its execution. This, however, was^ frustrated by the efforts of persons connected with the Larke na- vigation, • A^te writer on the climate of Great Britain, contends that it has beett gradually growing colder and less favorable for the production of those fruits %vhich require a genial sun. This hypothesis he supports, by the fact, that some centuries ago the vineyards, belonging chiefly to abbeys and religious establishments, were highly flourishing, and yielded abundance of wme, with which the pious fathers of those times felt no repugnance to solace themselves. At present we know that nothing of the kind exists in the country, the climatft- of which is not considered sufficiently warm to njature the fruit for the purpose of making wine. It might perhaps be imagined, that our ancestors possessed «ome method of training and managing the vine, which has been lost in the lapse of ages, did not the prodigious progress since made in every branch of science, and agriculture among the rest, forbid such an idea. The more probable conjecture is, that the people of former times were contented with » Ibeverage which modern refinement in luxuries would reject with disdain. 94 strproLK, vigation, whose interests would have been materially affected by swell an undertaking. They found means to gain over the duke of Grafton and the earl of Bristol, who had at first been disposed to patronize the project, and also to obtain the support of a ma- jority of the corporate body ; so that any attempt to coun1;eract such a formidable opposition, could only have been attended with fruitless expence and ultimate disappointment. King James I. in the fourth year of his reign, gmnted this town a charter of incorporation. Two years afterwards he gave the reversion of the houses, tythcs, and glebes, called the Almo- ner's Barns, and of the fairs and markets of the town in fee-farm, the reversion of tlie gaol, with the office of gaoler belonging to the liberty of Bury ; and also the toll-house now the market-cross, in present possession. In the twelfth year of his reign, the sam& monarch was farther pleased to give the churches, with the bells, libraries, and other appurtenances, also the rectories, oblations, and profits of the same churches, not formerly granted ; and much enlarged the liberties of the corporation for the better government of the town. At the same time he confirmed to the feoffees of Bury, all lands and possessions given by former benefactors. The donations in lands, houses, and money, for public and rharitable purposes, are very considerable in this town. A fevF have already been mentioned, but the remainder are by far too numerous to be here particularized. Bury has three annual fairs, the first on the Tuesday, and two following days in Easter week ; the second for three days before and three days after the feast of St. Matthew, September 21 ; and the third on the 2d of December, for two or three days. The alderman for the time being, who is lord of the fairs, has a right to prolong them at pleasure. The second, which is the principal, and probably the most ancient, usually continues three weeks. The charter for it was granted to the abbot in 1272, by king Henry III : and it was formerly one of the most celebrated marts in the kingdom. It was then held, as it is still, on the extensive space called the Angel-hill, where different rows of booths were assigned SUFFOLK. ussigned to the mamifactiircrs of Norwich, Ipswich, Colchester, London, and other towns, and even to some foreigners, especially the Dutch. On this occasion Bury was tlie resort of persons of the highest distinction, for whom the ahbot kept an open table ; while those of inferior rank w^ere entertained in the refectory by th« monks. We are told that the widowed queen of France, sister to Henry VIII. came every year from her residence at Westhorp, with her noble consort, the duke of Suffolk, to attend this fair, where slie had a magnificent tent for the reception of the numerous people of rank who resorted thither to pay their respects to her, and a band of music for their diversion. This fair, in regard to the business transacted at it, has been on the decline for half % century past, and become rather a place of fashionable resort thait a temporary mart, as most of the merchandise and goods now brought hither, are articles of luxury and fancy. Buiy has two weekly markets on Wednesday and Saturday. They are both abundantly supplied with provisions of every kind: but the first is far the mo&t considerable. The annals of Bury record the visits of many royal and noble personages, drawn thither by motives of piety, or by the fame and splendor of its monastic establishment. Besides these circum-' stances of local interest, the town and its immediate vicinity have been the theatre of important national events. It has already been observed, that Bury was frequently honored with the presence of king Edward the Confessor, who was perhaps the most eminent of the benefactors of the convent, and some of the fruits of whose liberality are still enjoyed by this town. In 1 132, Henry I. returning to England after his interview at Chartres with Pope Innocent III. was overtaken by a violent tempest. Considering it as a judgment of Providence for his sins, iie made in the hour of danger a solemn vow to amend his life, in pursuance of which, as soon as he had landed, he repaired to Bury to perform his devotions at the shrine of St. Edmund. Soon after the treaty concluded by king Stephen, with Henry, son of the empress Maud, by which the latter was acknowledged 96 SUFFOLK. his succesfeor, Stephen's son, Eustace came to Bury, and de- manded of the abbey and convent considerable supplies of money and provisions, to enable him to assert his claim to the throne. On the refusal of the abbot to comply with this requisition, the prince ordered the granaries of the monastery to be plundered, and many of the farms belonging to it to be ravaged and burned.* In the midst of these violent proceedings, he was seized with a fever, and expired at Bury on St. Lawrence's day 1153, in the eighteenth year of his age. During the unnatural contest in which Henry II. was engaged with Ijis sons, instigated by their mother, and aided by the king of France, a considerable army was assembled at Bury, by Richard de Lucy, lord chief justice ; Humphrey de Bohun, high consta- ble ; Reginald, earl of Cornwall, and other noblemen, to support the cause of their rightful sovereign. Robert de Beaumont, earl of Leicester, the general of the rebellious princes, having landed -with a large body of Flemings at Walton in this county, proceeded to Framlingham Castle, where he was received by Hugh Bigod, carl of Norfolk, who had espoused the same cause. Here he was joiped by a reinforcement of foreign troops ; and after ravaging the adjacent country, he set out for Leicestershire with his Fle- mings, who, as we are told by an old wrfter, thought England their own ; for when they came into any large plain, where they rested, taking one another by the hand, and leading a dance; they would sing in their native language : Hop, hop, Wilkine, liop Wilkine, England is mine and thine. Their mirth, however, was soon converted into mourning ; for on their way they were met by the royal army at Fornham St. Genoveve, where, on the 27th of October, 1 1 73, a bloody engage- ment * A few years since an ancient leaden seal, supposed to have been hidden during these troubles, was dug up under the pavement of the principal aisle ©I St. Edmund's church. It is conjectured to have been the great seal of lianulph earl of Chester, a zealous opponent of Stephen. SUFFOLK. 97 ment took place, and terminated in their total defeat. Ten thou- sand of their number, according to some writers, were killed ; but others assert, that five thousand were slain, and the same number taken prisoners. Among the last, were the earl of Leicester and his countess, with many other persons of distinction. In this engagement, the sacred standard of St. Edmund was borne before the royal army, which now made Bury its head quarters. After this victory the royal general marched against the earl of Norfolk, who withdrew to France ; but returning soon afterwai*ds with an army of Flemings, he took the city of Norwich, which he plundered and burned. The king*, who was in Normandy, being informed of these proceedings, hastened back to England, and assembling his troops on all sides, ordered their rendezvous at Bury. With this army Henry marched to chastise the earl ; and having demolished his castles at Ipswich and Walton, advanced towards his other places of strength at Framlingham and Bungay ; but the earl, finding that any farther opposition would be unavail- ing, submitted to the king, and thus terminated this disgraceful contest. In this reign the Jews, who had established themselves, among other places, in this town, when they first came into England under William the Conqueror, were very numerous at Bury, where they had a regular place for divine worship, denominated tlie syna- gogue of Moses. In 1179, having, as it is said, murdered a boy of this to wn, named Robert, in derision of Christ's crucifixion, and com- mitted the like offences in other parts of England, they were ba- nished the kingdom ; but they probably found means to make their peace in some places : for it appears that about ten years afterwards, in the second year of the reign of Richard I. they had, by their excessive usury, rendered themselves so odious to the nation, that the people rose with one accord to destroy them. Among the rest, many of those who inhabited Bury were surprised and put to death ; arid such as escaped by the assistance of the abbot Samp- son, were expelled the town, and never permitted to return. King Richard I. previously to his departure for the Holy Land, Vol. XIV. h paid 98 SUFFOLK. paid a devotional visit to the coiiveut and shrine of St. Edmund, • when the abhot requested permission to accompany him in his in- tended expedition, as tlie bishop of Norwich had already obtained leave to attend the king ; hut it was not deemed expedient tiiat the abbot shoukl be absent at the same time, and his petition was consequently rejected. On the return of that monarch from Pales- tine, he offered up the rich standard of Isaac, king of Cyprus, at the shrine of St. Edmund. To Bury belongs, if not in a superior, at least in an equal de- gree with Runimede, the lienor of that celebrated charter, by which the rights and liberties of Englishmen are secured. It is not generally known, perhaps, that the foundation of Magna Charta, is a charter of Henry I. which had fallen into oblivion as early as the time of king John. A copy of it having fallen into the hands of Stephen Langton, archbishop of Canterbury, was by him communicated to the principal nobles of the kingdom, a meeting of whom was convened at Bury to deliberate on the subject. Upon this occasion, each of the persons present went to the high altar of the church of St. Edmund, in which the assembly was held, and there swore, that if the king should refuse to abolish th« arbitrary Norman law», and restore those enacted by Edward the Confessor, they would make war upon him until he complied. The king, on his return from Poitou in 1214, met his barons at Bury, and with the utmost solemnity confirmed this celebrated deed ; binding himself by a public oath to regulate his admini- stration by tlie grand principles which it established. Henry III. paid several visits to Bury. In the year 1272, he held a parliament here, and by its advice proceeded to Norwich to punish the authors of a violent insurrection against the prior and monks of that city. Having accomplished the object of his jour- ney, he returned to this town, where he was seized with the dis- order, which soon afterwards terminated his reign and life. In 1296, Edward I. held a parliament at Bury, for the purpose of demanding an aid of the clergy and people. The former, how- ever, fortified with a papal constitution, refused to contribute any thing; SUFFOLK. 99 thing ; and continuing firm in this determination, the king seized all the revenues of the church, and among the rest, confiscated the goods of the abhot and convent of this place, together with all their manors, and the borough of Bury. These disputes lasted upwards of two years, till the clergy were at length compelled to submit, and to grant the king a subsidy of one fifteentli, or, ac- cording to some accounts, one tenth, of their goods and rents. In the reign of Edward II. his queen Isabella, being dissatisfied with the conduct of the Spencers, who were then the favourites of that imbecile monarch, obtained the assistance of the prince of Hainault, and landed with a force of 2,700 men, furnished by him at Orwell haven ; on which she marched to this town, where she continued some time to refresh her troops, and collect her adhe- rents. It is scarcely necessary to add, that the consequence of this measure was the deposition of the misguided monarch. Edward III. and his grandson Richard II. also visited Bury, and paid their adoration at the shrine of St. Edmund. During the reign' of the latter. Bury experienced the 'mischievous etfects of that spirit of rebellion which pervaded various parts of the kingdom. In 1381, soon after the insurrection of the Kentish men under Wat Tyler, the people of Norfolk and Suffolk rose in great numbers, and under the conduct of Jack Straw, committed excessive devastations. Proceeding in a body of not less than 60,000 men to Cavendish ; they there plundered and burned the house of Sir John de Cavendish, the lord chief-justice, whom they seized and carried to Bury ; here they struck off his head, and placed it on the pillory.* They then attacked the monastery. Sir John Cambridge, the prior, endeavored to escape by flight, but being taken and executed near Mildenhall, his head was set up near tliat of the lord chief-justice. Sir John Lcdceiiaythe, the keeper of the barony, shared the same fate. The insurgents then H 2 plundered • The mob are supposed to have been the more exasperated against Sir Jolm, because it was his son who dispatcted Wat Tyler in S'aitb^eld. 100 SUFFOLK. plundered the abbey, carrying off jewels to a considerable amount;, and doing much mischief to the buildings. They were, however, soon dispersed by Henry Spencer, the martial bishop of Nor- wich*, who meeting them at Barton Mills, witli a very inferior force, gave them so severe a check, that they were ^Ipid to return to their homes. . , In 1433, Henry VI. then only 12 years old, celebrated Christ- mas at the monastery of Bury, where he resided till the St. George's day following. Previously to his departure, the king, the duke of Gloucester, and several of his noble attendants, were s(^emnly admitted members of tlie community. In 1446 a parliament was held in this town, at which that mo- narch presided in person. This parliament was convened under the influence of Cardinal de Beaufort, the inveterate enemy of Humphry, duke of Gloucester, the king^s uncle, and the popular and beloved regent of England ; and there is but too much reason to believe, that the real purpose of this meeting was, to afford an opportunity for his destruction. Hume observes, that it assem- bled, not at London, which was supposed to be too well affected to the duke, but at St. Edmund's Bury, where his enemies expected him to be entirely at their mercy. Their plan was but too success- ful ; on the second day of the sessions he was arrested, all his servants were taken from him, and his retinue sent to different pri- sons. Preparations were made for bringing him to a public trial ; but his enemies, dreading the effect of the innocence and virtues of • Tins prelate was bred to the profession of arms, and highly distinguished himself in Italy, in the wars of Pope Adrian, a native of England, with the duke of Milan. The pope, to reward his services, conferred on him the bishopric of Norwich, in 1370. Having, under a coniniission from Pope Urban VI. but against the will of the king; raised an array, and landed in the Netherlands, to chastise the schismatics of that country; he was deprived, for two years, of his temporalities, to which he was, however, restored iu 1385 by the parliament, on account of his eminent services in suppressing this icbellion. SUFFOLK. 10\ of the good duke, as he was omplialically styled, liad recourse lo n more certain method of riddinj^ themselves of him tlian by Im- peachment. The morning after his apprehension, the duke was found lifeless in his bed, and tliough an apoplexy was de- clared to have been the cause of his death, yet all impartial per- sons ascribed it to violence. Pitts relates, that he was smothered with bolstei's, and a traditional opinion prevails, that this atro- city was perpetrated in an apartment of St. Savior^s liospital, then an appendage to the monastery, by William de la Pole, marquis of Suffolk. This event happened on the 23d, or 24th of February. The duke's body was conveyed to St. Alban's and there interred.* Another parliament met at Bury in 1448 ; and in 1486, the town was honored with the presence of Henry VII. in his progress through Norfolk and Suffolk. In 1526, an alarming insurrection of the people of Lavenham, Hadleigh, Sudbury, and the adjacent country, was quelled by the dukes of Norfolk and Suffolk, who met for tliat purpose at Bury, whither many of the ringleaders were brought, and appeared be- fore those noblemen in their shirts, and witli halters about their necks, when they received the royal pardon. On the death of Edward VI. in 1553, John Dudley, duke of Northumberland, having procured lady Jane Grey to be declared the heir to the crown, to the exclusion of the princesses Mary and Elizabeth, daughters of Henry VIII. marched with an army into Sufiblk, to suppress any attempt that might be made to op- pose his plans, and made Bury the rendezvous of his troops. Here he waited for reinforcements; Mary was meanwhile pro- claimed queen by the council, who ordered the duke to return to Cambridge. On the way he was deserted by most of his men, and thus terminated this ill-judged enterprize. During the reign of the fanatical Mary, Bury witnessed severd «f those horrible scenes, which then disgraced various parts of H 3 th« • See Beauties, Vol. VII. p. 32. 102 SUrFOLK. the kingdom. James Abbes was here burned for a heretic on the 2d August 1555 ; Roger Clarke, of Meudlesham, in 1556 ; and Roger Bernard, Adam Forster, and Robert Lawson, on the 30th June, the same year. In like manner, John Cooke, Robert Miles, Alexander Lane, and James Ashley, suffered for the same cause, shortly before the queen's last illness ; and Philip Humphrey, and Jolin and Henry David, brothers, were here brought to the stake only a fortnight anterior to Mary's death. Queen Elizabeth, in her journey through Norfolk and Suffolk, in 1578, paid a visit to this town, where she arrived on the 7th of August, as appears from the register of St. James's parish in Bury. During the reign of her successor, this town was visited by a most destructive calamity. This event is thus recorded by Stow, *' In the year 1608, April 11, being Monday, the quarter-sessions was held at St. Edmund's Bury, and by negligence, an out malt- house was set on fire ; from whence, in a most strange and sudden manner, through tierce winds, the fire came to the farthest side of the town, and as it went left some streets and houses safe and un- touched. The flame flew clean over many houses, and did great spoil to many fair buildings farthest off ; and ceased not till it had consumed one hundred and sixty dwelling houses, besides others; and in damage of wares and household stuff to the full value of sixty thousand pounds." To this accident, however terrible and distressful in itself, are probably owing the present beauty and re- gularity of ihe streets, most of which are now seen intersecting each other at right angles. King James, who was a great bene- factor to the town, contributed vast quantities of timber toward re- building it. The next r^^ign was marked by a visitation still more dreadful than the preceding, in 1636, the plague raged here with such violence, and so depopulated the town, that the grass grew in the street*. Four hundred families lay sick of that distemper at the same time, ^and were maintained at the public charge, which is said to have awouuted to 2001. a week. In SUFFOLK, 103 In the 17th century, when the example of our weak, though learned, James I. had excited the popular zeal against the imagi- hary crime of witchcraft. Bury exhibited some most disgraceful in- stances of the effect of this persecuting spirit. In 1644 one Matthew Hopkins of Manningtree in Essex, wlio styled himself. Witch-finder general, and had twenty shillings allowed him for every town he visited, was with some others commissioned by parliament in 1644, and the two following years, to perform a cir- cuit for the discovery of witches. By virtue of this commission, Ihey went from place to place, through many parts of Essex, Suffolk, Norfolk, and Huntingdonshire, and caused sixteen per- sons to be hanged at Yarmouth, forty at Bury, and others in differ- ent parts of the country, to the amount of sixty persons. It is to this circumstance that Butler alludes in his Hudibras, when he makes his hero say : Has not this present parliament, A ledger to the devil sent. Fully empower'd to treat about Finding revolted witches out ? And has he not within one year, Hang'd three score of them in a shire ? Pari II, Canto 3. Among the victims, sacrificed by this wretch, and his associates, were doubtless Mr. Lawes, an innocent, aged clergyman, of Bran- deston, a cooper and his wife, and fifteen other women, who were all condemned and executed at one time at Bury. Hopkins used many arts to extort confession from suspected persons, and when the^e failed, he had recourse to swimming them, "Which was done by tying their thumbs and great toes together, and then throwing them into the water. If they floated they were guilty of the crime of witchcraft, but their sinking was a proof of their in- nocence. This method he pursued, till some gentlemen, indig- nant at his barbarity, tied his own thumbs and toes^ as he had H 4 been 104 55UFFOLK. been accustomed to tie those of other persons, and when put in- to the water, he himself swam, as many had done before hira. By this expedient the country was soon cleared of him, and this circumstance also is alluded to by Hjadibras, who, speaking of Hopkins, says : Who after, proved himself a witch. And made a rod for his own breech. In this town also occurred about the year 1650, the ludicrous circumstance adverted to by Butler, in the following lines: ' Did not a certain lady whip Of late her husband's own lordship ? And though a grandee of the house, Claw'd him with fundamental blows; Ty'd hira stark naked to a bed-post. And flogg'd his hide as if sh'had rid post. Part II. Canto I. The crime, for which the unfortunate nobleman received this discipline from his termagant spouse, was, his having shewn an inclination to forsake the cai.se of Cromwell. This treatment, however, made him so sensible of his fault, that he humbly asked pardon, and promised to behave better in future ; and for this sa- lutary exercise of her influence, the lady had thanks given her in open court. Bury witnessed another execution for witchcraft, on the 17th March, 1664, when two poor widows, whose only guilt probably consisted, either in the deformity of their bodies, or the weakness of their understandings, were tried before that learned and upright judge. Sir Matthew Hale, and sentenced to die. This extraordinary trial was published, as an appeal to the world, by Sir Matthew, who, so far from being satisfied with the evidence, was extremely doubtful concerning it, and proceeded with such extreme caution, that he forbore to sum it up, leaving the matter to the j ury, with a prayer to God, to direct their hearts in so important an af-- fair. The «lJFFOtK. 105 The abbey and town of Bury, have produced many men distin- guished for learning and piety. Among these may be mentioned, John de Norwold, who being edncated here, was at length chosen abbot, and went to Rome to be confirmed in that dignity by the pope. He wrote nmcli on other subjects, but was princi- pally concerned in the great controversy between Robert Grostest, and Pope Innocent IV. None of his writings are now extant, but his Annals of England. He died, and was interred in his monastery, in 1280. John Eversden, a monk, excelled in tiie belles lettres, and w^is considered a good poet and orator, and a faithful historian. Re wrote several things which acquired considerable celebrity, aud died in 1336. Roger, surnamed the Computist, was remarkable for his mo- nastic virtues, and extraordinary learning. In his more advanced age he was chosen prior, after which, he wrote An Exposition of all the difficult tvords through the Bible ; Comments on the Gos^ pels, and other works. He flourished about 1360. Boston of Bury, was a native of this town, and a monk in tlie monastery here. He travelled over almost all England, to inspect the libraries, and compiled an alphabetical catalogue of all the books which they contained. To render the work the more complete, he gave a concise account of each author's life, and tlie opinions of the most learned men of his time respecting his writings, noting in what place and library, each book was to be found. He also wrote the following works : Of the original Progress and Success of Religious Orders, and other Monasti- cal affairs ; A Catalogue of Ecclesiastical writers ; The Mir- ror of Conventuals, and State of his own Monastery, besides other books. He flourished in 1410. Edmund Bromfield, was a man of such erudition, that Le- land is of opinion, that in this respect, none of the monks of this monastery ever surpassed him. He is said to have gone through his studies in England, and then to have repaired to Rome, where he displayed such abilities, that he was chosen pro- fessor 106 fessor, and styled by the doctors there/Count Palatiiif of the uni- versity. He was appointed bishop of Llandaff by the pope, iu 1389 ; and dying in 1391, was interred in his own cathedral. Of all the inhabitants of this monastery, none was perhaps more celebrated in his time, than John Lydgate, called, the mank of Bury, not as Cibber conjectures, because he was a native of this town, for he was born about the year 1380, at the village of Lydgate in this county. Having studied at an English uni- versity, he travelled into France and Italy, where he acquired a eompetent knowledge of the language of those countries, and on his return, opened a school in London. At what time he retired to the convent at Bury, is uncertain, as is also the period of his death ; though it is known that he was living in 1446. He is charac- terized by Pitts, as an elegant poet, a persuasive rhetorician, an expert mathematician, an acute philosopher, and a tolerable di- vine. Considering the age in which he lived, Lydgate was really «, good poet ; his language is much less obsolete than Chaucer^s, and his versification far more harmonious. Among an incredible number of poems and translations, a catalogue of which may be *fbund in Tanner, he was the author of the following pieces : The Life and Martyrdom of St. Edmund, king of the East Angles.*^ Tiie Life of St. Fremund, consin to St. Edmund. A Poem, concerning the Banner and Standard of St. Edmund. A Ballad Royal of Invocation to St. Edmund, at the instance of king Henry VI. Lydgate also translated into verse, Boccaccio*s Latin work in ten books, entitled De Casibus Virorum et Fccminarum IllHs- trmm. It was from the French version, by Laurence, an eccle- siastic, * Stnitt, in his Royal and Ecclesiastical Antiquities, has given a plate, re- presenting William Curtis, abbot of Bury, presenting to king Henry VI. a book translated out of Latin by John Lydgate, a monk there, containing the life of Edmund, king of the East Angles, which Henry receires, seated on his throne. SUFFOLK. 107 slastic^ that Lydgate*s poem, -which consists of only nine books, was composed. In the earliest edition, printed in London, with- out date, it is thus entitled: The Tragedies gathered by John Bocha^, of such princes as fell from theyr estates through the mutabilitie of fortune ; since the creation of Adam until hys time, Sfc, Translated into English, by John Lydgate, monke of Bury. His tomb in the abbey church, destroyed with many others at the dissolution, is said to have bad this inscription : Mortuus saeclo, superis superstes. Hie jacet L^-dgat tuniulatus urna. Qui luit quondam Celebris Britanus ' FaraaPoesis. vhicfa has been thus quaintly rendered : Dead in the world yet living in the sky, Intombed in this urn doth Lydgate lie, In former times fam'd for his poetry, All over England. Richard de Aungervyle, better known by the name of De Bury, from this his native place, was born in 1281, and educated at Hie university of Oxford. On finisliing his studies, he entered into the order of Benedictines, and became tutor to the prince of Wales, afterwards king Edward III. On his pupiPs accession to the throne, he was first appointed cofferer, afterwards treasurer of the wardrobe, archdeacon of Northampton, prebendary of Lincoln, Sarum, and Lichfield, keeper of the privy seal, dean of Wells, and lastly, was promoted to the see of Durham. He likewise held the offices of lord high-chancellor and treasurer ; and discharged two important embassies at the court of France. Learned himself, he was a patron of learning, and corresponded with some of the greatest geniuses of the age, particularly with the celebrated Pe- trarch. The public library which he founded at Oxford, on the gpot where now stands Trinity College, was a noble instance of 9 hi» 108 SUFFOLK. Ilis munificence. This establishment continued till the general dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII. when the books were dispersed into different repositories. This prelate likewise wrote a book, entitled Philobiblos, for the regulation of his libra- ry ; and a M.S. copy of* this performance is still preserved in the Cottoiiian collection. He died at the manor of Auckland, April 24, 13 15, and was interred at Durham. Stephen Gardiner, who is said to have been the natural son of Richard Woodvill, brother to Elizabeth, the queen of Edward IV. was born at Bury in 1483, and educated at Trinity -hall, Cam- bridge. On leaving the university, he was taken into the family of Cardinal Wolsey, by whom he was recommended to Henry VIII. and from this time he rose with rapid steps to the first dignities both in the church and state. His talents were confessedly great; and it cannot be denied that he exerted them with zeal in pro- moting the views of his benefactor. He had a considerable share in effecting the king's divorce from Catharine of Arragon; he assisted him in throwing off the papal yoke ; he himself abjured the pope's supremacy ; and wrote a book in behalf of the king, entitled : De vera et falsa ohcdientia. For these services he was elevated to the see of Winchester ; but opposing the Reformation in the succeeding reign, he was tin-own into prison, where he continued several years, till Queen Mary, on her accession to the throne, not only released him, and restored him to his bishoprick, but also invested him with the office of lord high-chancellor. Being now in fact entrusted with the chief direction of affairs, he employed his power in some cases for the most salutary ends ; and in others abused it to the most pernicious purposes. He drew up the marriage articles between Queen Mary and Philip II. of Spain, with the strictest regard to the interests of England. He opposed, but in vain, the coming of Cardinal Pole into the king- dom. He preserved inviolate the privileges of the university of Cambridge, of which he was chancellor, and defeated every scheme for extending the royal prerogative beyond its due limits. It must be acknowledged, however, that he had a principal share 6 in SUFFOLK. 109 in reconciling the English nation to the see of Rome ; and what has fixed a much fouler stain upon his memory, that lie was deeply implicated in the cruel persecution carried on against the Protes- tants : though his guilt in this respect is far from being so great as is commonly imagined, Bonner, bishop of London, havings been the chief author of those barbarities. Previously to his deatli wliich happened on November 13, 1555, he is said to have mani- fested the deepest remorse for this part of his conduct, and to have frequently exclaimed: Erravi cum Petro, sed non Jlevi cum Petro. Besides the book above mentioned, he wrote a retraction of that work, several sermons, and other treatises ; and is sup- posed to have been the author of The necessary Doctrine and Erudition of a Christian, a piece commonly ascribed to Henry VIII. William Claggett, an eminent divine of the seventeenth century, was born in this town in 1 646, and educated at Cam- bridge. His first station in the church was that of minister in this his native place; and he died in March, 1688, lecturer of St. Michael Bassishaw, London, a^nd chaplain in ordinary to his majesty. He was author of a great number of theological tracts : and four volumes of sermons published after his death. Nicholas, brother of this divine, was also born at Bury in 1654, and educated at Cambridge, where he took his degree of D. D; 1704. He was preacher of St. Mary's in this town, and rector of Hitcham. He died in 1727. His son, Nicholas, became bishop of Exeter. John Battely, D. D. was born at Bury in 1647, and edu- . cated at Trinity College, Cambridge. He became chaplain to archbishop Sancroft, who gave him the rectory of Adisham, in Kent, and the archdeaconry of Canterbury. He was the author of a brief account in Latin of the Antiquities of St. Edmund's Bury, and died in 1708. Barrow was, in the ninth of Edward I. the lordship and estate of the countess of Gloucester ; but afterwards became the property of Bartholomew lord Badlesmere, who, espousing the cause of the earl lid SUFFOLK. tfarl of Lancaster, and the other discontented barons against king Edward II. was taken prisoner at Boroughbridge in Yorkshire,, and hanged at Blean near Canterbury, in 1322. His estate being consequently forfeited, was given by the king to his favorite, Hugh de Spenser, who enjoyed it till the accession of Edward III. when it was restored to Giles lord Badlesm^re, son of the former proprietor. His son, Bartholomew, died possessed of it in the 12th of Edward III. leaving his four sisters his heirs. On the divisioa of his estates among them, this manor fell to the lot of Margaret, wife of John de Tibetot. Robert, their son, died, seized of this manor forty-sixth of Edward III. leaving three daughters his heirs, but to which of them it came we are not informed. The ruins of the seat belonging to these families, a little to the south- ward of the church, bespeak it to have been a noble structure. In the church is the monument of sir Clement Higham, the last Ro- man Catholic speaker of the house of commons in the time of Queen Mary. " Here, too,*' observes Mr. Gough,* " the turn- pike road from Bury to Newmarket, is unfortunately for the repose of some brave warriors, carried through a tumulus or barrow, in which human bones may at any time with very little trouble be discovered." The Rev. Dr. Philip Francis, the translator of Horace, was rec- tor of this parish. The late rector, tlie Rev. George Ashby, was an industrious antiquary, and possessed considerable collections, principally relative to this county. On his death in 1808, they were disposed of by Mr. Deck, a bookseller at Bury, and are now distributed in various hands. FoRNHAM All Saints, is the lordship of sir Thomas Rook- wood Gage, Bart, out of lands in this parish, Penelope, coun- tess Rivers, gave a rent charge of eight pounds per annum, that a sermon against popery might be preached four times a year at Bury. This lady had the singular fortune to marry in succession three gentlemen who had been her suitors at the same time, but had children only by her second husband, sir John •Camden 11, 162. SUFFOLK. llh John Gage, of Firle, in Sussex. She left the estate of Hengrave to lier second son, Edward. In this parish is the mansion of- John Moseley, Esq. Near this village a hattle is said to have been fought by Edward, son of king Alfred, with Ethelwald, his uncle's sou, over whom he gained a complete victory. Hawsted, in Domesday-book Haldsted, is situated between three and four miles south-west of Bury. The bounds of this paris.', ^)ass througli the north and south doors of tiie church of the adjacent village of Howtou, so that the perambulating cavalcade proceeds through that edifice in its course. On the hounds to the south-west stood some years since a majestic tree, called the gospel oak, beneath which the clergyman used to stop in the annual per- ambulations, and repeat some prayer proper for the occasion. T»he parish is estimated in Domesday-book to contain thirteeu caru- cates, or 1300 acres, but the real quantity is 2000. We learn from Domesday-book that a church existed at Haw* sted at the period of the compilation, but of tlie time in which the present church was built, there are no authentic recoils ; the architecture, however, bespeaks it to have been erected in the beginning of the sixteenth century. It is constructed of free-stone and flints, broken into smooth faces, which, by the contrast of their colors, produce a very good effect. The porches, buttresses, and embattled parapets, are, in genei-al, the most labored parts, the flints not only being mixed with the free-stone, but beauti- tifully inlaid in a variety of patterns. Of this inlaying, the lower part of the steeple exhibits specimens of considerable elegance, in mullets, quatrefoils, interlaced triangles, &c. The walls, for about two feet above the ground, are of free-stone, and project all round in the manner of a buttress, like those of Windsor Castle, a circumstance unusual in a country church. The steeple is square, and «ixty-three feet high. The chancel is of a different age, and inferior style, its walls being composed of rough flintts, plastered over. Till the year 1780, the roof of this edifice was of thatch, vhich was then exchanged for tiles. The 112 SUFFOLK. The cliurcli consists of a body or nave, only fifty-eight feef loTrg*^ twent^^-nine wide, and about thirty -six to the highest point of the roof, the braces and principals of which are carved ; and of the latter, every other is supported by an angel. These angels, however, have been deprived of their heads and wings. This mutilation was probably performed by order of Mr. William Dow- sing, of Stratford, in this county, who made his circuit for the purpose- of effecting this puritanical reformation in the years 1643 and 1644, destroying such images and inscriptions in churches as were deemed superstitious, to the extreme regret of the antiquary and lover of the arts. On the upper edge of the font are still to be seen the remains of the fastenings by which the cover was for- merly locked down for fear of sorcery. The chancel is thirty-three feet and a half by eighteen, and twenty-four feet higli. The ceiling is covered and plaistered, and divided into compartments by mouldings of wood, adorned with antique heads and foliage. All the windows have been hand- somely painted ; several coats of arms of the Drurys and Cloptons still remain, as also some headless figures of saints and angels. The destruction of the faces of superstitious images was often a sacrifice that satisfied Cromwell's ecclesiastical visitors. The church and chancel are divided by a wooden screen of Gothic work. On this screen, denominated the rood loft, still hangs a relic of Roman Catholic times. This is one of the small bells which are supposed to have been rung at particular parts of divine service, as at tlie consecration and elevation of the host, whence they are called sacring, that is, consecrating bells, to rouse the attention of such of the congregation whose situation would not permit them well to see what was transacting at the high altar. These bells are now very rarely seen ; and the author of the His- tory •The constitution of Edmund, in 1^236, enjoins — Pontes baptismaks sub serra clausi teneantur propter sort'ilegia. How long this custom continued we cannot determine ; but a lock was bouglit for the font ia Brockdish church, ^ Korfolk, so late «s ib5^. SUFFOLK. 113 tory of Hawsted expresses his surprize that this should have escaped all" the reformations which the church has experienced. In tlie steeple are three hells, on the smallest of which is this inscription, in the old English character : Eterms annis resonet campana JoanniSi Of the sepulchral monuments contained in this church, some of the most remaikable shall be briefly noticed. Within an arched recess in the middle of the north wall of the chancel, and nearly level with the pavement, lies a cross-legged figure of stone. The late sir James Burrough, in the Appendix to Magna Britannia,'^' asserts, that it is for one of the family of Fitz-Eustace, who were lords of this place in the reigns of Henry III. and Edward I. and there can be no doubt that it is coeval with the chancel, which is of that age. It is a handsome monument, the arch being elegantly sculptured with foliage, and a Gothic turret rising from the head and feet, connected by a bat- tlement at top. Not less ancient probably than the preceding, is a flat slab of Sussex marble, seven feet long, on which no vestige of an in- scription remains. Sir John CuUum conjectures it to have been for an ecclesiastic, and observes, that stones of this shape were frequently the lids of coffins sunk no lower than their own depth in the earth. In the middle of the church towards the east is another flat slab of Sussex marble, which, by its escutcheons in brass, appears to cover the remains of Roger Drury, esq. who died in 1500. On a flat stone close to the steps leading to the communion table is the portrait of a lady in brass, in a head-dress of the fa- shion of Henry the Seventh's reign, triangular at top, with long depending lappets. At her girdle are suspended her bag or purse, and also her beads. From the escutcheons on the stone, it appears to commemorate Ursula, fourth daughter of Sir Robert Drury, who married Giles, son of Sir Giles Allington. Vol. XIV. I Oa * Vol. V. p. 340. \ 114 SUFFOLK. On the top of an altar-monument of Sussex marble, in the soutfi- cast corner of the church, is the portrait in brass of a knight in armour between his two wives, about two feet high. His hair i» clipped sliort; his whiskers and parted beard are long; his ar- mour is flourished with some different metal, with large protube- rances at the shoulders ; at his neck and wrists are similar narrow ruffs or ruffles ; and his toes are very broad. The ladies are ha- bited both alike, though one of them died forty years before her husband ; and the other survived him, as is represented by her eyes being open whilst those of the other are closed.* The following epitaph, in the black-letter character, on a brass plate, may , by comparison, serve to ascertain the date of similar figures that have lost their inscriptions : Here lyeth clothed now in earth, S^r Wyllm Drury, knyghf. Such one as whylest he \yved here, was loved of every wyght ; Such temperance he did retayne, such prudent curtesy, Such noble mynde, with jul^tice joynd, such lybcralily ; As fume itself shall sound for nie, the glory of his name. Much better than this metall mute, can ay pronounce the same. The Icvenlh of frosly Janyver, the yere of Christ, I fynd, A thousand fyve hundred fyfty seven, his vital thryd untwin'd Who vet doth lyve, ai)d shall do stj 11, in hearts of them yt knew hym, God graunt the slyppes of such a stok, in vertues to ensue him.t Beneath * On tliis impropriety Sir John Cullum makes the following observations illustrative of the fashions of those days. " The hair had now (1557) been drcsstd for some time in a much less forced and unnatural fashion, parted in the middle, and gracing each temple. The cap, now become of a modeiate size, had assumed a not inelegant curve in front, and was embellished with a fillet ; the mantle or upper garment has round hangnig sleeves reaching to the groiiiKi ; the rulFs at the neck and wrists are the same as the man's; as are also the broad ioes aud protuberances at the shoulders. The beads had quit- ted the girdle, and given place to the Bible, which hung by a ribbon almost as low as the feet." ^ f The faiJiily of the Drury 's, which long flourished at this place, produced many persons distinguished in their time, but the most celebrate^}, -was Sir Willinm SUFFOLK, 115 Beneath the two ladies, are figures of seventeen children, with their names. In the chancel, is a fine marble bust of Sir William Drury, in armour. He was elected one of the knights of the shire in 1585, and in 1589, was killed in a duel in France. His corpse was brought to England, and interred here. In the south-east corner of the chancel, is a mural monument to the memory of the lady, of whom Dr. Donne says. Her pure and eloquent blood Spoke in her cheeks, and so distinctly wrought. That one might almost sa^-her body thought. It consists of a basement about 3 feet high, on which, under an ornamental arch, lies the figure of a young female, as large as life, with her head reclining on her left hand. Her mantle is drawn close about her neck, and edged with a small ruff ; her 1 2 hair William Drury, the grandson of him for whom the above epitaph was composed; of whom Fuller observes, that as his name, in the Saxon lan- guage, signifies a pearl, so he might fitly be compared to one for preclous- ness, being hard}', innocent, and valiant. His youth he passed in the French wars, his maturer years in Scotland, and his old age in Ireland. In the mi- nority of king James I. when the French had gained possession of Edinburgh castle, he was knight marshall of Berwick, and being sent by queen Eliza- beth to reduce the castle, he ably fulfilled that comniissiou, and in a few days, restored it to the rightful owner. In 1575, he was appointed lord president of the province of Munster in Ireland, and proceeding thither with a competent force, executed impartial justice in spite of all opposition. When he entered vpon his office, the earl of Desmond disputed his right to interfere in regard to the county of Kerry, pretending, , that it was a palatinate belonging to himself, and exempt from English jurisdiction. Not terrified by the menaces of thie earl. Sir William entered Kerry to enforce the authority of his so- vereign, and returned in safety, with no more than 150 men, through 70O of Desmond's adherents, who sought to surprize him. In 3578 he was sworn lord justice of Ireland, and was proceeding to reduce Desmond, when he was seized with a mortal distemper, which put an end to his life the sam^ ytAT al Waterford, 116 SUFFOLK. hair is dressed in many small and short curls, without cap or other covering. Above is an emblematical female personage, surrounded with a glory, and scattering flowers on the figure below : on each side of the basement sits a greyhound, the cognizance of the fa- mily. This is a very pleasing monument of painted alabaster, and well executed. The long Latin inscription, on a black marble ta- blet, is supposed to be from the pen of Dr. Donne. The lady to whose memory this monument was erected, wa§i Elizabeth, the younger, and only surviving daughter, of Sir Ro- bert Drury. She died in 1610, at the early age of 15. Tradition reports, that her death was the consequence of a box on the ear, given her by her father. This absurd story, is supposed to have originated from her being represented, both on her monument, and in a picture of her, still extant, reclining her head on one hand. Another tradition relating to her is, that she was destined for the wife of prince Henry, eldest son of James I. She was certainly a great heiress, and their ages were not unsuitable, but it may reasonably be doubted, whether there is more truth in this story than in the other. So much is certain, that Dr. Donne de- termined to celebrate the anniversary of her death, in an elegy, as long as he lived ; but we have nothing beyond the second an- niversary. The truth seems to be, that his panegyric was so profusely lavished in two essays, as to be quite exhausted. Some of the lines have been noticed in the forty-first number of the Spectator, where they are erroneously said to relate to Donne's mistress, instead of the departed daughter of his friend. Opposite to the monument of this young lady, is a noble mural monument in honour of her father. Sir Robert Drury. It con- sists of a basement, on which is a sarcophagus of black marble, beneath a double arch, supported by Corinthian pillars. Over tlie arch, in a marble frame, is a most spirited bust in armour, as large as life, representing Sir Robert ; who before ^e was out of mourning for his father, attended tlie earl of Essex to the unsuc- cessful siege of Rohan, in 1591, where he was knighted at the early age of 16. The Latin epitaph, recording his merits, is as- 6 cribed. SUFFOLK. 117 tribed to the pen of Dr. Donne, who was so liberally patronised by him, and to whom he assigned apartments in his mansion in Drury Lane. This monument was executed, at the expence of Sir Robert's widow, by Nicliolas Stone, who had given so fine a specimen of his abilities, in the tomb of her father and mother, in Redgrave churcli. On two small panncls in the basement, are incriptions in Latin and English, on Dorothy, ano^ ther daughter of Sir Robert, who died at the age of four years. The latter is as follows : She little, proniis'd much, Too soon uiitide; She only dreamt she liv'd And then she dv'de. A large mural monument, contiguous to that of Elizabeth Druiy, consists, like the last, of a sarcopliagus on a hasement, over whicli is a lofty entablature, supported by two square fluted pillars, of the Ionic order, and surmounted by a large escutcheon of the arras and crest. The whole is made of a white, hard plaster, painted of a dark grey color, and ornamented with gilding and flowers. It is the work of an Italian ; for, by the accounts of the steward of Hawsted Hall, it appears, that in 1675, three sums of 51. were advanced " to the Italian, on account of the monument." It is a heavy performance. A tablet over the sarcophagus, has an inscription in gold letters, in honor of Sir Thomas Cul- lum, Bart.* 1 3 Variong * This gentltman, who purchased the manor of Hawsted, which has ever since continued in his descendants, belonged to a family long seated in the county. Being a younger son, he was put to business in London, and be- came a very successful draper in Graccchurch street. He married a daugh- ter of Mr. Nicholas Crispe, who died in the prime of life, leaving him tha father of a numerous offspring. Mr. Cullnra was one of the sheriffs of Lon- doD in 1646, and in August 1617, was, with tho lord-mayor and several others. 118 SUFFOLK, Various other monuments of the Cullum family are to be found in this church, and among the rest, one in memory of Anne, daughter of John lord Berkley, of Stratton, and wife of Sir Dud- ley Cullum, Bart, who died in 1709, in her 44th year. Of the rectors of this parish, may be mentioned Joseph Hall, A. M. who was presented to it, in 1601, by Sir Robert Drury. He Was afterwards bishop of Exeter and Norwich, and well known for his learned and pious writings, as well as for his sufferings. The last rector was Sir John Cullum, M. A. fellow of Catharine Hall, Cambridge, who was presented to the living by his father. It was this gentleman, who wrote and published the History and Antiquities of Hawsted, in which he gives the following account of himself: — " He was born 21 June 1733, and educated at Bury School, whence he went to Catharine Hall, Cambridge, of which, after having taken the degrees of batchelor, and master of arts, he was elected fellow, 7 Dec. 1759. In March, 1774, he became a member of the Society of Antiquaries ; in December that year, was instituted to the living of Great Thurlow, in this county ; in March 1775, was elected a fellow of the Royal Society; and in this others, coramitccd to the Tower for high treason, that is, for having been con- cerned iu some commotions in the city in favor of the king. In 1656 he made his purchase in this place, to which lie retired from the hurry of busi- ness and public life. Very soon after the Restoration he was created a baronet; which mark of royal favor, together with the cause of liis former imprisonment, might have been expected to secure him from all apprehension of danger :but whether it were that he had temporized a little during some period of the in- terregnum, or that money was to be squeezed from the opulent by every possi- ble contrivance, he received a pardon under the great seal, dated 17 July, 3661, for all treasons and rebellions, with all their concomitant enormities, by him committed, before the 29th of the preceding December. From this general pardon were excepted some crinies, as burglaries, perjuries, forgeries, and several others, among which is mentioned witchcraft. He died 6 April 1664, at the advanced age of 78. Tn a street in London which still bears his naine, he possessed considerable property, and just escaped witnessing its destruction by the dreadful conflagration iu 1666. SUFFOLK. 119 this year, 1784, is innocently, at least, amusing Itirasclf, in com- piling- the history, such as it is, of his native place/' llawsted was given, during the reign of Edward the Confessor* to the abbot and convent of Bury, and was involved in the enor- mous grant of that monarch to the monastery, of the royalties of all the villages in eight and a half contiguous hundreds. Lands were afterwards granted in this parish, by the abbot, to different persons ; and in process of time, a family took its name from tlie place. In the reign of king Stephen, we lind, that Ralph de Halstede, and Roger his brother, afforded the abbot an opportunity of carrying a point of great consequence against tlie crown. The story is thus related, in the manuscript catalogue of the lands, liberties, &c. belonging to the abbey of St. Edmund at Bury, de- scribed by Tanner.* William Martell, the king's sewer, attended by many prelates, barons, and others ; and sitting in his seat of justice in the bishop's garden, at Norwich ; two courtiers, Jordan tie Bosseville, and Richard de Waldan, produced a young man, named Herbert, who -was ready to prove to the court, that he served Robert Fitz-Gilbert in the army, when the king led his forces against Bedford, at that time in possession of his enemies ; and that Robert, and Adam de Horningsherth, had discourse with Ralph de Halstede, and Roger, his brother, (who had come pri- < vately out of the town, and changed their horses, shields, and saddles,) about betraying and murdering the king. They there- fore demanded, in the king's name, that the cause might be heard, and justice done. Upon this, Ording the abbot, who was pre- sent, stood up and harangued the court, informing them, tliat tlie accused brothers were within the liberty of St. Edmund, and therefore amenable only to him. This privilege was discussed at large ; and the abbot established his claim, by the determination ©f the court, and confirmation of the king. The earliest principal lords of the village, specified as such in the recprds, are the family of Eustace, or 1 itz-Eustace. It be- I 4 longed * Not. Monast. 506. 120 SUFFOLK. longed afterwards to the Cloptons, by whom it was sold, or rathei* exchanged, in 1504, to the Drury family, for the manors of Hen- sted and Blomstons, in this county, and one thousand marks. Sir Robert, the last male heir of this distinguished house, left three sisters, to one of whom, married to Sir William Wray, the estate at Hawsted devolved. By the widow of this lady^s only siir- viving son. Sir Christopher, it was disposed of, in 1656, to Tho- mas Cullum esq. for 17,6971. on which the interest of the Drurys ceased here, after a continuance of 190 years. In the descendants of that gentleman, who was afterwards created a baronet, this manor has continued ever since, the present lord being Sir Tho- mas Gery Cullum, hart, of Bury St. Edmund's. Hawsted House, or Place, is supposed to have been rebuilt, or at least, thoroughly repaired, by Sir William Drury, in the reign of queen Elizabeth. It is situated on an eminence and the whole formed a quadrangle, 202 by 21 1 feet within : but part of it has been taken down, not from decay, but because it had be^ come useless. This mansion afforded no bad specimen of the skill of former artists, in regard to durability. The walls were chiefly built of timber and plaster; the latter, in the front, being thickly stuck with fragments of glass, which made a brilliant ap- pearance in the sun-shine, and even by moon-light. Much of it still remains, and appears to have been little injured by more than two centuries. It might be worth while, to attempt to recover the receipt for making this excellent composition ; all that we know respecting it at present is, that it contains a considerable quantity of hair, and was made of coarse sand, abounding with stones almost as large as horse-beans. The house itself contains nothing remarkable. It formed a quadrangle, inclosing an area 58 feet square, and was detached from the other buildings by a wide moat, surrounded by a terrace, and besides the apartments found in the houses of gentlemen of the present day, it had its smoking- room, still-room, and chapel. Contiguous to one of the cham- bers was a wainscoted closet about seven feet square, fitted up, as it is conjectured, for the last lady Drury. It was probably de- signed SUFFOLK. 121 ajiynecl, at first, for an oratory, ami from the pannels having beeu painted witli various sentences, emblems, and mottos, it was c^-lled the painted closet. These paintings, which are well exe- cuted, have been removed to a small apartment in Hardwict House, near Bury, which is likewise the property of the Culluoi family. On the porches are still extant, in stone, the arms of Drury, and those of Stafford of Grafton, to wliich family belonged the lady of Sir William Drury, who succeeded to the estate on the death of his grandfather, in 1557. Between these porches stands a stone figure of Hercules,* as it was denominated, holding in one hand a club across the shoulders, the other resting on one hip. This figure formerly discharged, by tlie natural passage, into a carved stone bason, a continual stream of water, supplied by leaden pipes from a pond at the distance of near half a mile. From the date preserved on the pedestal, this was probably one of the embellishments bestowed upon this place, against the visit with which it was honored by queen Elizabeth in her progress, in 1578. f She rode in the morning from Sir William CordelPs, at Melford, and dined with one of the Drury s, at Lawshall Hall, about five miles from Hawsted.t In the evening she came to Hawsted, * It has been suggested, that thi» uncouth figure, notwithstanding its ap- pellation, might be designed to represent merely a wild man, or savage, as it has no attribute of Hercules but the club, and all the limbs are covered with thick hair. It bears a great resemblance to the arms of the extinct noble family of Berkeley, of Stratton, and those of Lord Wodehouse. Hombre salvagi(y,)VLSt come out of the woods, with an oaken plant in his hand, over- grown with moss and ivy, was one of the personages that addressed queen Elizabeth at her famous entertainment at Kenilworth Castle. Cullum's Hau)- sted, p. 131. f ** Modern times," observes Sir John CiiUiim, '* would scarcely devise such a piece ui sculpture as an amusing spectacle for a virgin princess."— The figure in question, has lately been rendered less offensive to the eye of modesty. % This visit is thus recorded in the register of that parish, under the year 1578; 122 SUFFOLK. Hawsted, and the apartment which she occupied ever after re- tained her name. Tradition reports, that she dropped a silver- handled fan into the moat. It was probably on this occasion, that her majesty bestowed the honor of knighthood on the master of this mansion. In this parish is also a good mansion, called Hawsted Farm, the residence of Christopher Metcalf, Esq. It was almost rebuilt in 1783, by that gentleman, of the white brick made at Woolpit. Hardwick House, is the property of the Cullum family, the estate upon which it stands being indissolubly united to their manor of Hawsted. It is situated upon the very line that divides the open and woodland country, and commands a pleasing view of Bury and its neighbourhood, above which it is considerably ele- vated. This estate appears to have been given, by king Stephen, to the abbey of Bury, and continued in the hands of the monks till the dissolution. Tradition reports, that it was the abbot's dairy, and that the principal mansion was his occasional resi- dence. No part of the present building, however, is of any con- siderable antiquity, except a spacious chimney, under ground ; so that no idea can now be formed, of what its ancient grandeur may have been. It was purchased, in 1610, by Sir Robert Drury, and in the following year, annexed for ever to the manor of Haw- sted. Sir John Cullum* mentions a singular custom, which, within a few years, he saw twice practised in the garden of Hardwick House, namely, that of drawing a child through a cleft tree. For this purpose," says that gentleman, " a young ash was each time selected, and split longitudinally about five feet. The fissure was kept open by my gardener, while the friends of the child, 15"8: " It is to be remembered tbat tbe queen's highnesse, in her progresse, riding from Melfoid to Bury, 5o Aug. regineque ILO annoque d^ii prcdicto, dined at Lawshall Hall, to tbe great rejoicing of the said parish and countj thereabouts." • Hist, and Antiq. of Hawsted, p, 533. SUFFOLK. 123 ehild, having first stripped him naked, passed him twice through it, always head foremost. As soon as the operation was per- formed, the wounded tree was hound up with packthread ; and as the hark healed, the child was to recover. The first of these young patients was to be cured of the rickets, the second of a rupture. About the former I had no opportunity of making en- quiry, but I fi'equently saw the father of the latter, who assured me, that his child, without any other assistance, gradually mended, and at last grew perfectly well.* Hardwick Heath has for some years been famous for one of the finest flocks of sheep in the county, though consisting of no more than 300. They are horned, and have black faces and legs. This was one of the tliree flocks, in the environs of Bury, that formerly belonged to the abbot. Sir Robert Drury, who died in 1615, founded an alms-house at Hardwick, for six poor unmarried women, with a yearly revenue of 51. each ; two of them to be taken from the town of Bury, one from Hawsted, one from Whepsted, one from Brockley, and one from Chadburgh and Reed, alternately. Hengrave, belonged in the rdgn of Edward I. to Edmund de Hengrave, a celebrated lawyer; and in 1375, to Thomas Hethe. In 1 Richard III. the manor was granted to Henry Lord Grey, of Codnoure, but afterwards devolved to the crown, of which it was purchased, in the reign of Henry VIII. by Sir Thomas Kitson, who built the fine old hall, and made it the family seat. He was succeeded by his son Thomas, who dying in 1602, the estate de- volved, • Dr. Borlase, in liis antiquities of Cornwall, mentions a similar custom prac- tised in that part of the island. There is, he says, in the parish of Marden, a stone with a hole in it, 14 inches in diameter, lliroiigh which he was informed, by an intelligent neighboring farmer, many persons had crept, for pains in tlicir backs and limbs; and that fanciful parents, at certain times of the year, are accustomed to draw their children ihrougli, to cure them of the rickets. It is not a little curious, that the eastern and western extremities of the king- dom, should coincide in this singular custym, the spirit of which sesms to be deduced from the remotest antiquity. 124 SUFFOLK. volved, by marriage, to Thomas lord Darcy, wliose second daughter married Sir John Gage, of Firle, Sussex, and thus con- veyed. Hengrave to a new family. In July 1662, Edward Gage, Esq. of this place was created a baronet; he had five wives, and died in 1707, aged 90, and from him the title and property have been transmitted to Sir Thomas, the present possessor. Hengrave Hall is an admirable example of the fine old man- sions with wliich this country abounds. The date of its erection is fixed by the following inscription in three compartments, cut in the stone, on the outside of the curious oriel window over the en- trance, OPUS ROC riERI FECIT TOMA KYTSON. IN DIEU ET MON DROIT — ANNO d'ni mccccc tkicesimo OCTAVO. This inscrip- tion runs round a fillet beneath the bow window, and the second division of it is under the royal arms. This mansion affords an unique specimen of ancient domestic architecture. The whole is ©f brick and stone, " the gateway," observes Mr» Gough, is of such singular beauty, and in such high preservation, that per- haps a more elegant specimen of the architecture of that age can scarcely be seen."* It was once, more extensive than at present, several alterations having been made, and some parts at the north, and north-east angle taken away in 1775. The building, which is still large, incloses a quadrangular court, and the apartments open into a gallery, the windows of which overlook this court. They formerly contained a quantity of stained glass, and the bay-window in the hall, still retains some fine specimens, con- sisting of various armorial bearings. This window is also very splendid for its glazing, mullions, fan-tracery, pendant and span- drils, all of which nearly resemble the highly florid example in Henry Vllth's chapel. The form of the turrets on each side of the entrance, and at the corners of the building, as also of the two small turreted columns at the door, bear a striking resemblance to Moorish minarets, or the cupolas of Indian edifices.f Some * Cough's Camden, Vol. II. p. t82. t In Britton's Architectural Antiquities are two views of this fine old ipan* sion SUFFOLK. 12^ Some years since, this mansion was the abode of a sisterhood of expatriated nuns, of Bruges, to whom the owner of Hengrave, who is himself of the Roman Catholic persuasion, liberally af- forded an asylum. During their residence here, they lost, by death, their superior , a lineal descendant of the great Sir Tho- mas More. When the decree in favor of emigrants was issued in France, they availed themselves of the permission to return to their own country. A domestic chapel, fitted up in one of the angles of the building, and provided with an organ, still remain* (1810) in the state in which they left it. Very near the Hall, stands a small church, which is distin- guished by one of the ancient round towers, that seem to be pe- culiar to this portion of the kingdom. No use appears to have been made of this edifice for many years, the rectory having beeu consolidated with Flempton. Of the monuments within it, the principal are those of the Kitson's, John Bouchier, earl of Bath^ who married into the family; his son, John Lord Fitzwarren, Thomas son of earl Rivers, and several of the Gages. There is a fine marble tomb, in memory of Sir Thomas Kitson> the founder of H engrave Hall, with effigies of himself and one of his wives ; but it is rather singular, that in the inscription a blank is left for the name and parentage of his first wife. This gentleman, who came from the obscure village of Yealland, in Lancashire, having obtained immense wealth by commercial spe- culations in the cloth-trade, received the honour of knighthood,. He purchased the manor of Hengrave from the crown, and possess- ed several other estates in SufTolk, Devonshire, Dorsetshire, and the city of London, for which he served the office of sheriff. He was afterwiards appointed by the duke of Norfolk, steward of the Franchise of Bury St. Edmund's, and died Step. 13. 1540, aged 55. HORNINGSHERTH, aion, one representing the whole of the south front, and the other the central compartment, with the entrance, and also a ground-plau of the building pro '^ous to the alterations made in 1775, 126 SUFFOLK. Horning SHERTH, commonly called Horringer, formerly had two parish churches, distinguished by the names of Hor- ningsherth Magna, and Parva : but the latter is quite demolished, the parishes having been consolidated in 1548. They formerly belonged to the abbey of Bury. Little Horningsherth Hall, was one of the pleasure-houses of the abbot, where, above a century after the dissolution, his arms, together with those of Edmund the Confessor, were to be seen carved and painted in the great chamber. IcKWORTH formerly belonged to the abbey of Bury, by the gift of Theodred, bishop of London. The whole parish is now converted into a park, in which stands the seat of the noble fa- mily of Hervey, who acquired this estate by marriage with that of Drury. John Hervey, was in 1703 created, by queen Anne, a peer of the realm, by the title of baron Hervey of Ick worth,* V and in 1714, was invested by George I. with the more honorable title of earl of Bristol. Frederic William, who succeeded his fa- ther in 1803, is the present, and fifth earl. Ickworth park may vie with any in the kingdom, being eleven miles in circumference, and containing 1800 acres. The old man- sion of the noble proprietor is not remarkable ; but not far from it stands * " As for titles of honor," says Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, " I never was concerned in making any peer but one, and that was^ iny lord Hervey, the present earl of Bristol. I had made a promise to Sir Thomas Felton^ when the queen first came to the crown, that if her majesty should ever make any new lords, I would certainly use my interest, that Mr. Hervey should be one. And accordingly, though I was retired into the country, under the most sensible afDiction for the death of my only son, yet when the queen had re- solved to make four peers, I had such a regard to my word, that I wrote to 'Lord Marlborough and Lord Godolphin, that if they did not endeavor to get Mr, Hervey made a peer, I neither Avould nor could shew niy face any more." In the Court of Great Brituin, this nobleman is characterized, as " a great sportsman, and a lover of horse-matches and plays. He always made a good figure in the Hou^e of Commons, is zealous for the laws and liberties of th© . people ; a handsome man in his person, fair complexion, middle stature." SUFFOLK. 127 stands a new building, planned, upon a very extensive scale, by the late carl, who was also bishop of D(!rry, for the purpose of depositing in it the various works of art which he had collected, during a long residence in the classic regions of Italy. It was in- tended to be composed of a circular building in the centre, con- nected with the wings by a colonnade on each side. The accom- plishment of this plan was frustrated, hcfWever, by the circum- stance of the earPs collections falling into the hands of the French in 1798, on which occasion he was himself confined by the repub- licans in the castle of Milan. This event seems to have occasioned the earl to abandon his design of returning to England, and he con- tinued to reside in Italy, till his death, in 1S03. With a caprice for which many members of his family have been remarkable,* he is said to have left to strangers all his personal property, includ- ing such collections as he had made in the last years of his life. Various encumbrances prevented his successor from completing his father's plan, and he even seriously deliberated on the propriety of pulling down the shell of this new building, and selling the ma- terials ; but these, it was found on examination, would scarcely reimburse the expense of their removal. From the immense sum that would be required to finish this structure, it is not improbable that the hand of time will be suflfered to reduce it to a ruin. This edifice, which fronts the south, and stands a little to the west of the old mansion, is built of what is denominated Roman brick, and was begun about the year 1795. The centre, which is nearly circular, is 140 feet high ; the cupola that crowns it is 90 feet in its largest diameter, and 80 in the smallest. It is adorned with a series of Ionic columns, between the windows of the lower apartments, and Corinthian pillars between those of the principal floor. Over the windows of the latter are basso relievos, representing subjects taken from the Iliad. Above the entrance in seen Alexander presenting to his father the celebrated horse Bu- cephalus, whom he alone could subdue, a!id on either side a scene from the Olympic games. All these are are at present covered with boards, to protect them from- the inclemency of the weather f and SUFFOLK. l«ranton injury. Over the windows of the first story is anotlier set of basso relievos uncovered, consisting of tiie following sub- jects from the Odyssey :-— Penelope weaving — Mentor and Te- lemachus proceeding in quest of Ulysses— The sacrifice — Pene- lope dreaming of her husband's return— -Mercury persuading Ca- lypso to release Ulysses— His shipwreck— Ulysses saved from the wreck by LeucotJioe— The harpies— Penelope carrying the bow of Ulysses to the suitors— The hero destroying them— Pene- lope recognizing her husband— Mercury conducting the ghosts of- the suitors to Styx. — Ulysses concluding a treaty with the chiefs ef Ithaca. The interior of this edifice exhibits a mere shell with a kind of open wooden staircase to ascend to the roof, which commands a beautiful and extensive view of the adjacent country. The cu- pola is crowned with a circular railing, within which the chim- neys rise in a single stack, in such a manner as not to be visible on the outside of the building. The intended drawing and dining room, the only apartments bounded by an interior wall, are each 40 feet in length, but from the nature of the building, of unequal breadth. The wings, and the galleries connecting them with the edifice in the centre, have been run up to the height of only three or four feet. The left wing was designed for an assembly room, and that on the right, to contain a gallery of statues on the ground-floor, and of pictures above ; and in both, provision has been made for a circular reservoir for w ater. The length of each colonnade and wing is 60 yards, and that of tlie whole building, from one extre- mity to the other, 600 feet. The designs for this edifice were furnished by Italian artists, and sent over from Italy, and the construction of so much of it as has been erected, was superintended by Mr. Sandys. The sculp- tures are the workmanship of two brothers, named Carvalho, also natives of Italy, and are modelled after the celebrated designs of Flaxman. The total expense already incurred amounts to near 40,0001. We SUFFOLK. 129 We are informed by Batteley, that in his memory a large pot of Roman money was discovered at Ickvvortli. RiSBY is remarkable for nothing but the form of the steeple of its church, which being round, is conjectured to be of Danish erection. Saxham Magi^a, belonged, with the advowson of the church, to Bury abbey, and was granted, 33 Henry VIII. to Sir Richard Long and his wife. It belonged, for several descents, to the family of Eldred, one of whom, John, mentioned below, built the house long known by the name of Nutmeg Hall, in the reign of James I. In 1641, his son, Revet Eldred, was created a baronet. In this family the estate continued, till about 1 750, when it was purchased by Hutchinson Mure, Esq. who greatly improved and embellished his domains. The old house was accidentally burned down in 1 779, and a new one erected north-west of it, from a plan of Mr. Adam. This is now the residence and property of Tho- mas Mills, Esq. At the upper end of the chancel on the south-side is a bust as large as life, of painted stone, not badly executed, and un- derneath this inscription : New Buckingliam in Norfolk was his first being ; in Babilon he spent some part of his time ; and the rest of his earthly pilgrimage hee spent in London and was alderman of that famous cittie. The Holy Land so called I have ser.ne. And in the land of Babilon have beene ; But in yt. land where glorious saints doe live. My soul doth crave of Christ a roometo give ; And there with holy angells haiilujahs sing With joyful voyce to God our heavenly king. No content but in thee O Lord. Under the bust is a raised monument, with a black marble; on Memoriae sacrum, John Eldred. His Age His Death LXXX Vol. XIV. K the 130 SUFFOLK. the top, very neatly inlaid, in brass, is the figure of a man about two feet long, with a ruff, and furred gown, well engraven ; with the arms of Eldred, Revett, city of London, East India, Turkey, and Russia companies. At his feet, on three brass plates is the fol- lowing inscription : Curriculum vita? peregre mercando peregi, jiEgyptum atque Arabes, Syrosque visens : Eximiae reduci et meritae cessere coronae Nati, divitiae, perenne nomen. Felix grandaivus morior ; longissima quatnvis Sit vitae via— terminus sepulchrum. Might all my travels me excuse For being deade and lying here ; Or if my riciies well to use For life to death might me endeare ; I had my fate or quite outgone. Or purchas'd death's compassion. But riches can no ransom buy. Nor trarells passe the destiny. Revettus Eldred, Arm. filius et heres mestissiraus Defuncti hoc monumentum posuit Septembris 7°. Ao. Domini 1632, Of the voyage of this traveller to Tripoli in Syria, and his jour- ney thence to Babylon in 15S3, an account is given in Hackluyt's Collection.* It was his son Revett Eldred, who was created a ba- ronet, as mentioned above, and who seems to have thought that he could not do too much for the memory of his father in the monu- mental way. He married Anne Blackwell, and died without issue. On a board suspended in the church, reciting the chari- ties * Vol. II. p. 268 — In the Archaologia, Vol. XV. is an engraving of a por- trait of an old man, wiih a ruff, a short beard, and whiskers, supposed to re- present this gentleman. The original was brought, with two other curious olA gaiBtings, from Olivers, the seat of the Eldred family in Essex. SUFFOLK. 131 ties left to the parish, is this inscription :— " By Lady Ann El- tlred, June 6lh, 1671, 1001." At Saxham Parva was formerly the seat of the family of Lu- cas, and afterwards of that of Crofts. The latter long flourished here in high repute ; several individuals helonging to it received the honor of knighthood ; and one of them. Sir Thomas Crofts, was, 36 Elizabeth, high-sheriff of this county. His grandson, William, having been brought up from his youth at court, was appointed captain of the guard to Henrietta, queen of Charles I. gentleman of the horse to the duke of York, and gentleman of the bed-chamber to Charles II. He was a great sufterer by his adherence to the Stuart family, whose confidence he enjoyed, and was at length sent ambassador to Poland, in which capacity his ser- vices were so highly valued, that Charles II. during his exile at Brussels, advanced him to the dignity of a peer of the realm, by the title of Lord Crofts of Saxham. Dying in 1677 without male issue, the title became extinct. In the chancel of the church is an elegant altar monument of marble to the memory of this no- bleman ; and another close beside it for his lady, who died in 1672. He is represented in a recumbent posture, in his robes, with a flowing wig in the fashion of the times ; and the lady is seen upon her monument in the same attitude. Several other individuals of that family are interred in this part of the church, where they had also a vault, which has lately'been walled up. The east window contains various coats of arms of the family in painted glass , but a considerable quantity put up by the father of Colonel Rushbrook, has been removed by him to Rush brook- Hall. This church is remarkable for one of those round towers, ascribed to the Danes, fifty-six feet high, and fifty-nine in circumference. The upper part of this tower is embattled, and beautifully ornamented with window frames. The mansion-house, to which lord Crofts had added a grand apartment for the reception of Charles II. was of brick, and probably built in the reign of Henry VII. It was pulled down in 1771, when it appeared as sound as at its first erection. The painted-glass in the church was removed thither K 2 from 13^ SUFFOLK. from this edifice. The estate is still vested in Richard Croft% Esq. of Herling, Norfolk. The manor of Whepstead formed part of the possessions of the abhey of Bury ; and after the dissolution, was granted 31st Henry VIII. to Sir William Drury. It has since passed through various hands, and is now the property of Major General Hammond, who resides at Plumston-hall, in this parish. It is an old irregular building, in the style of many of the second-rate mansions of this county, and has been repaired and modernized by the present possessor. The church at this place formerly had a spire upon the steeple, which was blown down by the high wind at Oliver CromwelPs death : as was also that of Dalham in the hundred of Risbridge. HUNDRED OF RISBRIDGE. This hundred is bounded on the east by the hundreds of Baberg, Thingoe, and Lackford ; on the west by Cambridgeshire ; on the south by the river Stour which parts it from Essex ; and on the north by Lackford. It contains two market-towns, Clare and Haverhill. Clare, formerly a place of considerable note, is seated on the Stour, and contains about 500 houses, and 2600 inhabitants. It has a weekly market on Fridays, and two annual fairs, on Easter- Tuesday, and July 26. The houses are in general mean, and the streets broad, but unpaved. On the north side of it stands an ancient house, which attracts attention, from its ornaments con- sisting chiefly of armorial bearings and foliage, but so defaced with whitewash, that it is impossible exactly to ascertain the figures. The front of a house near the market, exhibits, in basso relievo, the figure of a swan fastened to a tree, with a gold chain. -Some fact is doubtless intended to be commemorated by this piece of antiquity, which has recently been renewed and beautified. Of the once celebrated castle of Clare, pn the south side of the town. 133 town, few vestiges now remain, though it appears to have heen not inferior in grandeur to any of the feudal mansions in the king- dom. The site of the whole fortification, which may be distinctly traced, contains about twenty acres, once surrounded by water, and divided into an outer and inner bayley, the latter only ever inclosed with a wall. On the summit of a steep hill, about one hundred feet high, of no great circumference at the base, and pro- bably of artificial formation, stands a fragment of the keep, which, jjefore the usp of fire-arms, must have been a place of great strength. A narrow jiath winding round the hijl leads to this relic of antiquity, which, surrounded with verdure, forms a picturesque object. It appears to have been of a circular form within ; but the exterior was a polygon, with buttresses at the angles ; there are three of these buttresses in the part yet remaining. A frag- ment of the wall, built, like the keep, with a composition of mortar and flints, runs down the hill along the north side of the area of the castle ; and a small portion is still standing on the opposite side. Such is now all that remains to attest the existence of the magnificent castle of Clare; Respecting the first foundation of this castle, we find nothing authentic. Seated on the frontier of the kingdom of the East- Angles, and close to the borders of that of Essex, the most pro- bable conjecture is, that it was erected during the heptarchy. No mention, however, is made of it in history till near two centu- ries after the union of the petty sovereignties in the person of Egbert. At this time, and during the reigns of Canute, Hardi- canute, and Edward, Aluric, an earl, the son of Withgar, was in possession of it, and in the beginning of the tenth century found- ed in the castle the church of St. John the Baptist, in which he placed seven prebends. At the period of the Norman conquest, Clare was one of the ninety-five lordships in this county assigned by William to his kinsman Richard Fitz-Gilbert, to whose assist- ance he was materially indebted for his victory at Hastings. From this place he was sometimes denominated Richard de Clare, though he more usually went by the name of Tonebruge, from K 3 his - 134 SUFFOLK. his residence in tliat town now called Tunbridge. He left his English estates to his son Gilbert, who likewise made Tonebruge his seat; and who by a deed bearing date 1090, tested at the castle called Clare, gave to the Monks of Bee, in Normandy, the church of St. John Baptist above-mentioned, with the prebends belonging to it, to be disposed of to their sole and proper benefit, as often as they should happen to be void. This nobleman was created earl of Pembroke by king Stephen ; and on his death in the fourteenth year of that king's reign, was succeeded by his son the celebrated Richard Strongbow, the first English adven- turer who went to Ireland for the purpose of reducing that coun- try. Dying without male issue in the new possessions which he had acquired by the sword, his estates in England devolved to his uncle Richard, who is thought to have been the first of the family dignified with the title of Earl of Clare. By him the monks of the castle here were translated to the church of St. Augustine at Stoke. The fourth in descent from this Richard was Gilbert, surnamed the Red, who having obtained a divorce from his first wife, Alice de March, daughter of Guy, earl of Angouleme, married Joan of Acres, daughter of king Edward I. By this princess, who sur- vived him, he had his son and successor, Gilbert, who dying with- out male issue, the honour of Clare became extinct, but his estate was divided among his three sisters. One of these ladies, Eliza- beth, married to John de Burgh, son and heir to the earl of Ulster in Ireland, is more particularly memorable for having rebuilt and endowed University-Hall, in Cambridge, and given it the name of Clare-Hall, which it still retains.* The honour of Clare now lay dormant for some years, during which John de Hausted held tlie castle for his life. On his de- cease, Lionel, third son of king Edward III. being then lieutenant of Ireland, was, in the thirty-sixth year of that king's reign, cre- ated duke of Clarence. He married Elizabeth, only daughter of William de Burgh, earl of Ulster, who died two years afterwards, ^ leaving * See Beauties, Vol. p. 36. SUFFOLK. 135 kaving him one daughter, Philippa, who was his sole heir. By her marriage to Edmund Mortimer, earl of March, the lordship of Clare was carried into his family. His son, on coming of age m 1405, found the castle in good repair, and amply stocked with rich furniture: but on his death, without issue, in the eighth year of Henry VI. it devolved on Richard duke of York. On the accession of his son Edward to the throne, these possessions became vested, and remained in the crown during his reign, and those of his suc- cessors. By act of parliament, 11 Henry VII. they were con- firmed to the king, and so continued till 6 Edward VI. when they were granted, with other estates in Essex and Suffolk, to Sir John Cheeke, but were resumed by the crown in the first year of Queen Mary's reign. The castle and lordship of Clare afterwards came into the possession of Sir Gervase Elwes, of Stoke College, Bart, in whose heirs they still remain. After the death of Lionel, son of Edward III. the honor of Clare, or Clarence, lay dormant till 13 Henry IV. when Tho- mas, second son of that king, having previously been consti- tuted high-steward, and admiral of England, lieutenant of Ire- land, and captain of Calais, was created duke of Clarence. He served with great distinction in the English army in France under his brother king Henry V. but at length besieging Beau- fort-, and hearing that the Dauphin was advancing, he marched with a small party to meet him, and fell in the engagement, leav- ing no legitimate issue, on which the title again became dormant. It was once more revived by Edward IV. soon after his corona- tion, in favor of liis next brother George. He was the same year constituted lieutenant of Ireland ; and for the better support of his dignity, obtained a grant of the estates of the earl of Northum- berland, forfeited by his attainder. Notwithstanding these favors, he joined the party of Neville, earl of Warwick, who, on account of some pique against Edward, undertook to seat Henry VI. again upon the throne ; and who, to bind the duke of Clarence still more firmly to his cause, gave him his eldest daughter in marriage. Of a disposition that seems to have been naturally perfidious, he K 4 soon 136 SUFFOLK, soon abandoned Warwick^ and returning to his brother, assisted him to defeat .the earl at Barnet. He was also one of those who put to death the young prince Edward, son of Henry VI. and heir to the crown in the Lancastrian line. The king, however, conceiving some jealousy of his brother, confined him in the Tower, where, as it was generally believed, he was drowned in a butt of Malmsey winxj. By the earl of Warwick's daughter, he left a son, Edward, who, in her right, became earl of Warwick; but his father being attainted in the next parliament after his death, the title became a third time extinct. The dukedom having thus escheated to the king, he made the herald, properly belonging to it, a king at arms, and gave him tlie appellation of Clarencieux. His office is to marshal and arrange the funerals of the baronets, and all gentry below that rank, on the south side of the Trent, whence he is sometimes called Surroy, in contradistinction to The honor of Clare was not revived till 22 James I. when Sir John Holiis, of Houghton, in Nottinghamshire, who had been previously created lord Houghton, was elevated to the dignity of earl of Clare. In 1688, John, his great grandson, suc- ceeded to tlie earldom. He married Margaret, third daugh- ter of Henry Cavendish, duke of Newcastle ; and on the death of his father-in-law without male issue, he was, in consideration of his services in contributing to seat William III. on the throne, created by him marquis of Clare and duke of Newcastle. He was accounted the richest English peer of his time; but having no male issue, he left the bulk of his landed possessions to Thomas Hollis Pelham, son of his youngest sister Grace, whom king George I. successively invested with the titles borne by his uncle ; which again became extinct with that family during the succeed- ing reign. At length in 1789, his present majesty, George III. conferred the dukedom of Clarence on his third son, prince Wil- liam Henry. Near the ruins of the castle stands Clare priory, formerly a monastery of canons regular of St, Augustine, founded in 1248, by SUFFOLK. 137 by Ricliard tie Clare, earl of Gloucester, from whom descended the Mortimers, earls of Marcli, and the royal Iiou.se of York, as is related in the pedigree of Joan of Acres, daughter of Edward I. and wife of Gilbert de Clare, earl of Gloucester, in a poem in- serted in Weever's Funeral Monuments.* This house being an alien priory, and a cell to the abbey of Bee, was made indigenous by ki^g Ricjiard II. in the nineteenth year of his reign, and by him given as a cell to St. Peter's at West^njnster. Richard de Clare, earl of Hertford, gave to this house the hermitage of Stan- 4une, that divine service might be there celebrated for him and ^is. This, and several other donations and endowments, by vari- ous benefactors, were confirmed by the archbisliop of Canterbury and the pope. It was granted 31 Henry VIII. to Richard Friend; and a part of the buildings has nearly ever since that time been occupied as a dwelling. They have been recently repaired ; but retain, with the name, all the appearance of their original destination. The priory was lately the property of Wil- liam Shrive, esq. who had it from the Barkers, to whom it has returned. In the church belonging to this priory, which is now converted into a barn, was buried Joan of Acres. She was the second daugh- ter of king Edward I. by queen Eleanor, and wafe born, in the first year of her father's reign, in the Holy Land, at Ptolemais, more commonly called Acres, and celebrated in modern history by the name of Acre. She was married at the age of eighteen to Gilbert de Clare, earl of Gloucester ; after whpse death she gave her hand to Ralph de Monthermer, who had been servant to the earl. She died in her manor of Clare in May 10, 1305, in the first year of Edward * The original of this piece is preserved on a roll of parchment in the old English character, -with the following title : — " This dialoge betwix a secular askyng and a frere answering at the grave of dame Jolian of Acris, shewith the lineal descent of the lordis of the honoure of Clare from the tyme of the fundation of the freeris in the same honoure, the yere of our Lord MCCXLVIII. unto the first of May, the yere MCCCCLX." To the English roll is annexed another of the same in Latin. 138 SUFFOLK. Edward II. who, with most of the English nobility, attended lier funeral. Here was also interred the body of Edward, her eldest son, by Ralph de Monthermer, who, gaining the favor of the king, was created earl of Gloucester and Hertford. Lionel, duke of Clarence, and earl of Ulster in Ireland, third son of king Edward III. was likewise buried in the chancel of the church belonging to this priory, together with bis first wife Eli- zabeth, daughter and heiress of William de Burgh, earl of Ulster, She died in 1363. Not long afterwards he married Violenta, daughter of John Galeazzo, duke of Milan, with whom he received a large portion. His nuptials were celebrated at Milan with extraordinary pomp. Stow gives the following account of the entertainments on this occasion :— " In the month of April Lionell, duke of Clarence, with a chosen company of English nobility, went towards Mellaines, there to marry Violenta, the daughter of Galeacius, the second of that name, duke of Milan, at whose arrival such abundance of treasure was in a most bounteous man- ner spent in making most sumptuous feasts, setting forth stately sights, and honoring with rare gifts above two hundred English- men, who accompanied his son-in-law, as it seemed to surpasse the greatnesse of the most wealthie princes ; for in the banquet wliereat Francis Petrarch was present among the chiefest guests, there were above thirtie courses of service at the table, and betwixt evei-y course as many presents of wondrous price intermixed, all which John Galeacius, chiefs of the chosen youth, bringing to the table, did offer unto Lionell. There were in one only course seventy goodly horses, adorned with silk and silver furniture, and in the other silver vessels, falcons, hounds, armour for horses, costly coats of mayle, breast-plates glittering of massie Steele, helmets and corselets, decked with costly crestes, apparell distinct with costly jewels, souldier's girdles, and lastly, certain gemmes, by curious art set in gold, and of purple and cloth of gold for men's apparel in great abuudance. Such was the sumptuousnesse of this banquet, that the meats or fragments which were brought from tlie table would have sufficiently served ten thousand men. " But SUFFOLK. 139 *' But not long after, Lionell, living with his now wife, whilst nfter the manner of his own country, as forgetting- or not regarding his change of ayre, addicted liimself over much to untimely ban- quetings. Spent and consumed with a lingering sicknesse, he died at Alba Pompeia, called also Longuvill, in the marquisate of Montserrat, in Piedmont, on the vigil of St. Luke the Evangelist, A. D. 1368, in the 42d yeare of his father's reigne." Camden, in his Annals of Ireland, relates that Lionell was buried in the city of Pavia, hard by St. Augustine the doctor ; but that his bones were removed, brought to England, and interred a se- cond time in the conventual church of Augustine Fiiars at Clare. Philippa, Lionel's only daughter by his first wife, was married, as has been before observed, to Edmund Mortimer, earl of March, by whom she had a son, Roger. Anne, daughter of the latter, mar- rying Richard of Cambridge, transferred the right to the crown to the house of York. The parish church, an ancient and beautiful structure, with a square tower, is at present the principal ornament of Clare. From its stately appearance, there is every reason to presume that it was erected at the cost of the lords, who allowed the townspeople the use of it. The font is of stone, and from its form and decora- tions, is evidently of the same age as the church. Among other persons of note interred here, is Edmund, son of the above-men- tioned Roger Mortimer, earl of March, and next heir to the crown after the death of king Richard IL The church contains but one monument of a knight, said to be one of the Cavendish family. The second market-town in this hundred is Haverhill, or, as it is written in old records, Haverhull and Haverel Its market, which is small and inconsiderable, is held weekly on Wednesday; and it has two annual fairs on the 1 2th May and 26th August. In 1801 it contained 150 houses, and 1104 inhabitants, of whom 487 were returned as employed in trade and in the manufacture of checks, cottons, and fustians. The principal street is wide : but the houses are mean. The church is a large ancient struc- 9 ture. uo SUfFOLK. ture, and there are two meeting houses^ and a charity school, in the town, which was formerly of much greater extent ; the ruin.'* of another church and of a castle being still visible. The south end of the main street is partly in Suffolk, and partly in Essex. The manors of Desening and Haverhill, belonged, 4 Henry IV. to Lord Stafford, and to Humphrey, duke of Buckingham 28 Henry VI. In 1 Richard III. Henry lord Grey, of Codnoure, l)ad a grant of the manors of Haverhill and Hersham. The church was impropriated to the priory of Castleacre, in Norfolk ; ai|d the rectory and advowsonof the vicarage, were granted, 29 Henry VIII. to Thomas, lord Cromwell. Haverhill was the birtli-place of Dr. Samuel Ward, a eele- foated divine of the 1 7th century, and master of Sidney College, Cambridge, whose father was minister of this place, and lies buried in the chancel of the church. He accompanied Bishop Carlton, Dean Hall, and Dr. Davenant, to the synod at Dort, but impri- sonment and ill usage, during the troubles under Charles I. occa- sioned his death in 1643. The villages worthy of notice in this hundred are : — Barnardiston, commonly pronounced Barnson, which be- longed to Thomas de Woodstock, earl of Buckingham and duke o^f Gloucester, sixth son of King Edward III, and was one of the estates with which he endowed the college of Pleshy, in Essex, on its foundation 16 Richard II. This place gave name to a fa- mily, the various branches of which have had seats at Kedingtou, Brightwell, and Wyverston in this county. Cov/LiNG, or Cooling was the estate of William Long Espee, carl of Salisbury and Somerset, natural son to King Henry II. by the fair Rosamond. In this parish is a handsome mansion, the residence of — Dickens, Esq. Dalham, the lordship and demesne of Walter de Norwich, a parliamentary baron in the reign of Edward II. passed, together with his other estates, on the death of his great grandson, to William de Ufford, earl of Suffolk. It afterwards came into the family of the Estotevilles, and at length became by purchase the 6 properly SUFFOLK. 141 property of the Affleck family, which was, in 1782, elevated to the honours of baronetage, and has regularly resided at the mansion here, called Dalham-Hall. This mansion was built about the year 1705 by Dr. Patrick, fcishop of Ely. The offices below are arched, and at top, a noble gallery twenty-foui- feet wide, runs quit^j through the building. On the top of the steeple of Dalham church is this inscription : " Keep my sabbaths."—'' Reverence my sanctuary." Depden, a small village of about thirty houses, is remarkable only as the birth place of Dr. Anthony Sparrow, bishop of Norwich, whose father, a wealthy man, then resided here. He was educated at Queen's college, Cambridge, where he became a fel- low, and so continued till the commencement of the civil wars under Charles I. when that society was suppressed for its loyalty. Soon after the Restoration of Charles II. he was successively ap- pointed archdeacon of Sudbury, president of Queen's College^ bishop of Exeter, and at length translated to the see of Norwich, ■which he enjoyed about eight years, and died in 1685. HuNDON, was 9 Edward I. the lordship and estate of Gilbert de Clare, earl of Gloucester, and afterwards of Lionel, duke of Clarence, from whom it descended to the royal house of York. The manor, or reputed manor of Hundon, with the parks called Great Park, Estry Park, and Broxley Park, was granted, 3 Ed- ward VI, to Sir John Cheke, as part of the possessions of the college of Stoke Clare. In 1687, between two and three hundred Saxon coins were dis~ covered by the sexton, while digging a grave in the church-yaid of this village. They were all of nearly the same size and weight, " about the bigness of our groat," say the authors of the Magna Britannia, and equivalent to the Roman denarii y but scarcely two could be found with the same inscription. This va- riety might arise from the numerous mints in different places of the kingdom, with distinct masters to each, who had power to put what stamps they pleased upon their own coin. In a building attached to the church is a noble pyramid of marble. 142 SUFFOLK. mavble, erected to the memory of Aretliusa^ wife of James Ver- non, esq. and daughter of lord Clifford, heir apparent of Richard, earl of Burlington. She was mother of the late earl of Shipbrooke, and died in 1728. Kedington, or, as it is written in Domesday-book, Keditune, now corruptly called Ketton, was, at the time that survey was taken, the estate of Ralph Baynard. His grandson, William, having forfeited his honour and estates, the principal of which was Baynard's Castle, London, by joining in a conspiracy against Henry I. lost his barony, which being seized by that king, was given by him to Robert, a younger son of Richard Fitz-Gilbert, progenitor of tlie most ancient family of the earls of Clare. It was, in later times, the property of the Barnardistons, a family which produced many persons of eminence, and resided at the fine mansion of Kedington-Hall.^' In 1663, Sir Thomas Bar- nardiston, of this place, knight, was created a baronet; but the title is now extinct. In the church of this place are monuments for several of the Barnardistons; and the windows did, if they do not still, exhibit various memorials of that family. In the south window, for ex- ample, was represented a Barnardiston, with seven .sons behind him, and his wife with the same number of daughters ; and at a little distance is a tomb for Sir Thomas Barnardiston, and Eliza- zabeth his wife, by whom that window was built. On the north side * Sir Nathaniel Barnardiston, of this place, knight of the shire for Suffolk, was a man of exemplary piety and virtue, and a firm frioid to the liberties of his country. He died in 1653. Tn the reign of Queen Anne., two baronets of this family. Sir Samuel and Sir Thomas Barnard ibton, sat at the same time in the House of Commons. This family is also remarkable for havii^g given rise to the appellation of Houndhead, during the civil commotions under Charles I. The London apprentices," says Rapin, " wore the hair of the head cut round ; and the queen, observing out ot a window, Samuel Barnardiston among them, cried out : ' See what a handsome round head is there !' Hence came this name, which was first publicly used by Captain Hyde. SUFFOLK. 143 > side of the church also is a handsome monument, with the por* traiture of another Sir Tliomas Baniardiston, and Elizabeth, his lady, who died in the beginning of the sixteenth century. The celebrated archbishop Tillotson was minister of this place at the time of the Commonwealth. LiDGATE was granted by William the Conqueror to Reynold sans Nase, a gallant soldier, who received his surname from hav- ing lost his nose when attending that monarch in his wars. Going afterwards on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, he gave this lordship to the abbey of Bury St. Edmund's. Lidgate is memorable for having given birth and name to John Lidgate, a Benedictine monk of Bury, of great celebrity among his contemporai'ies for his learning and poetic talents. Here," says Kirby, " was a mount moated round near the church, on which remain the ruins of a castle."* Scarcely any vestiges even of the foundations are now left : but the moats are itill to be seen. The inhabitants usually call it king John's castle ; and its ruins are to this day dug up to repair the roads in its dirty neighbourhood. Stoke juxta Clare is so denominated to distinguish it from Stoke juxta Neyland, in the adjoining hundred. This place is re- markable for the monastery of the Benedictine order, translated hither from the castle of Clare by Richard de Tonebruge, who at the same time gave to it the manor and a little wood called Stoke Ho. About 1415, Edmund Mortimer, earl of March obtained the king*s permission to change this institution into a collegiate church, consisting of a dean and secular canons. This exchange was duly ratified by pope John XXIH. and Martin V. At the dissolution it was valued at 3241. 4s. 1 d. per annum, and granted to Sir John Cheke and Walter Mildmay, from whom it passed to the family of Trigg. It then became the property of Sir Gervase Elwes, who was created a baronet July 22, 1660, and died in 1705. Sir Gervase, says Mr. Topham, in his highly interesting and instiuc- * Suffolk TravdUr, second edit. p. 251. 144 SUFFOLK. instructive life of the late John Elwes, esq. " was a very worthy gentleman, that had involved as far as they would go all the estates he 'received and left behind him.*' On his death, his grandson and successor, " Sir Hervey, found himself nominally possessed of some thousands a year, but really with an income of one hun- dred pounds per annum. He declared on his arrival at the family seat at Stoke, that he would never leave it till he had entirely cleared the paternal estate, and he lived to do that, and to realize above one hundred thousand pounds in addition." At his death the estate at Stoke devolved to his nephew the late John Elwes, esq. from whom it descended to the present possessor, J. H. T. Elwes, esq.* * In the annals of avarice, there is not a more celebrated name than that of Elwes. The accumulation of money was the only passion and employment of the long life of Sir Hervey, who, though given over in his youth for a consumption, attained to the age of upwards of eighty years. To avoid the expense of company, he doomed himself, for above sixt}' years, to the strictest solitude^ scarcely knew the indulgence of fire and candle, and resided in a mansion where the wind entered at every broken casement, and the raiu descended through the roof. His household consisted of one man and two ^aids ; and such was the systematic economy which governed his whole esta- 'blishment, that the annual expenditure of Sir Hervey, though worth at least 250,0001. amounted to 1101. " Among the few acquaintances he had," says Mr. Topham, was an occasional club at his own village of Stoke, and there were members of it two baronets besides himself. Sir Cordwell Firebras, and Sir John Barnardiston. However rich they were, the reckoning was always an object of their investigation. As they were one day settling this difficult point, an odd fellow, who was a member, called out to a friend v;ho was passing: "For heaven's sake step up stairs and assist the poor ! Here are three baronets, worth a million of money, quarrelling about a farthing !'* On the death of Sir Hervey in 1763, he lay in state, such as it was, at Stoke a-nd some of his tenants observed with more humour than decency, that it was well he could not see it. His immense property devolved to his nepliew, John Meggot, who, by his will, was ordered to assume the name and arms of Elwes. Mr. Elwes, whose mother had been left a widow by a rich brewer, with a fortune of one hundred thousand pounds, and starved herself to death, proved Jiimself a worthy heir to her and Sir Hervey. On his first coming to Stoke after iSUFFOLK; 14d At Great ThurlOw was once a small hospital or free cliapel of the yearly value of 31. which was granted by Edward IV. to the after his uncle's death, lie began, it is true, to keep fox-hounds ; and his ^table of hunters at that time was said to be the best in the kingdom. This was the only instance in the whole life of Mr. Elwes of his sacrificing money to pleasure; but even here every thing was conducted in so frugal ti nian' ner, that the whole of his establishment, huntsman, dogs, and horses, did not cost him three hundred pounds a year. After a residence of near fourteen years at Stoke, he was chosen to represent Berkshire in parliament, on which occasion he removed to his seat at Marcham in that county. He now relinquish- ed the keeping of horses and dogsj and no man could be more attentive to his senatorial duties than Mr. Elwes while he continued to sit in the House of Commons. On his retirement from public life, to avoid the expense of a con- tested election, he was desirous of visiting his seat at Stoke, where he had not been for some years. When he reached this place, once the seat of moVe active scenes, of somewhat resembJing hospitality, and where his fox-hounds had diffused something like vivacity around, he remarked that " he had forme.'-ly expended a great deal of money very foolishly, but that a man grows wiser in time." Of the wa}' of living of this accomplished miser during this his last resi- dence at Stoke, the following account is given by his biographer : — " The rooms at his seat at Stoke, that were now much out of repair, and would havo all fallen 'in, but lor his son, John Elwes, Esq, who had resided there, he thought too expensively furnished, as worse things might have done. If a window was broken, there was to be no repair, but iliat of a little browu paper, or piecing in a bit of broken glass, which had at length been done s» frequently, and in so many shapes, that it would have puzzled a mathema- tician to say what figure they described. To save fire, he would walk about the remains of an old green-house, or sit with a servant in the kitchen. Dur* ing the harvest he would amuse himself with going into the fields to glean the corn on the grounds of his own tenants ; and they used to leave a little more than common, to please the old gentleman, who was as eager after it as any pauper in the parish. In the advance of the season, his morning employment was to pick up any stray chips, bones, and other things to carry to the fire, iu his pocket ; and he was one day surprised by a neighboring gentleman in the act of pulling down a crow's nest for that purpose. On the gentleman won^ dering why he gave himself this trouble. ** Oh, Sir !" replied old Elwe>, " it is really a shame that these creatures should do so. Do but see what waste they make ! They don't care how extravagant they are." Vox,. XIV. L "A* 146 SUFFOLK. the Maison de Bieu, now part of King^s College, Cambridge. The hall, with the lordship, formerly belonged to the Walde- graves, " As no gleam of favourite passion, or any ray of amusement, broke through this gioom of penur^', his insatiable desire of saving was now become uniform and systematic. He used ^ull to ride about the country on one of the worn- out mares, but then, he rode her very economically, on the soft turf adjoin- ing the road, witliout putting himself to the expence of shoes, as he observed, ' the turf was so pleasant to a horse's foot.' When any gentleman called to pay him a visit, and the boy who attended in the stable, was profuse enough to put a little hay before the horse, old Elwes would silly steal back, and take it carefully away. " That very strong appetite, which Mr. Elwes had in some measure re- strained, during the long sitting of parliament, he now indulged most vora- eioush', and on every thing he could find. To save, as he thought, the ex- pence of going to a butcher, he would have a whole sheep killed, and so eat mutton to the end of the chapter. When he occasionally had his river drawn, though sometimes horse loads of small fish were taken, not one would he suf- fer to be thrown in again ; for he observed, * he should never see them again.' Game, in the last state of putrefaction, and meat, that walked about his plate, would he continue to eat, rather than have new things killed, before the old provision was finished. With this diet, the charnel-house of suste- nance, his dress kept pace, equally in the last stage of dissolution. Some- times he would walk about in a tattered brown-coloured, and sometimes in a red and white woollen cap, like a prisoner confined for debt. His shoes he never would suffer to be cleaned, lest they should be worn out the sooner. When any friends, who might occasionally be with him, were absent, he would carefully put out his own fire, walk to the house of a neighbor, and thus make one fire serve for both. But still, with all this self-denial, this pe- nury of life, to which the inhabitant of an alms-house is not doomed, still did he think himself profuse, and frequently say, * he must be a little more careful of his property.' " The scene of mortification at which Mr. Elwes had now arrived, was all but a denial of the common necessaries of life j and indeed it might have ad- milted a doubt, whether, if his manors, his fish-ponds, and some grounds in his own hands had not furnished a subsistence, where he had not any thing actually to buy, he would not rather have starved than have bought any thing. He one day, during this period, dined upon the remaining part of a moor- SUFFOLK. 147 graves, and afterwards to Sir Cordel Firebrace, Bart. By the latter they were sold to James Vernon, Esq. whose descendant now has his seat here. In the contiguous parish of Little Thurlow is a noble old mansion, long the residence of the family of Soarae. The church contains a handsome monument, in memory of Sir Stephen Soame, knt. who had been lord mayor of London. He built the family residence during the reign of queen Elizabetli ; he also founded here a free-school and an alms-house, and died in 1619. HUNDRED OF BABERGH. This hundred is divided from Essex on the south by the Stour; on the west it is bounded by the same river, and the hundred of Risbridge ; on the north by the hundreds of Thingo and Thed- westry; and on the east by those of Cosford and Samford. The principal place in the hundred of Babergh is, Sudbury, a borough and market town of high antiquity, and once of much greater importance than at present, situated on the Stour, which is navigable for barges to this place, and over which there is a well built stone bridge. It comprehends three parishes, now incorporated, with the same number of large, hand- L 2 some hen, wliich had been brought out of the river by a rat ; and at anotlier ate the undigested part of a pilce, which a larger one had swallowed, but had not finished, and which were taken in this state in a net. At the time this last circumstance happened, he discovered a strange kind of satisfaction, ob» terving : * Aye ! this was killing two birds with one stone ! In the room of all comment, let it be remarked that at this time Mr, Elwes was perhaps worth near eight hundred thousand pounds." This extraordinary man died November 26th 1789, at his seal atMarcham, in Berkshire, having by will bequeathed all his real and personal estates, to the value of half a million sterling, to his two natural sons, George and John £iwes, the latter of whom is the present proprietor of Stoke. SUFFOLK. some churches, St. Gregory's, St. Peter's, and All Saints, S94 ileuses, and 3283 inhabitants. It is a corporate town, governed by a mayor, six aldermen, and twenty-four capital burgesses. Ever since 1559 it has returned two members to parliament, elected by the whole body of freemen, about 720 in number ; and it gives tlie title of baron, to the duke of Grafton. It has a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, on March 12th and July 10th. Sudbury was anciently denominated Southhurgh, in contradis^- tinctiou to Norwid), then called Nortliburgh. It was one of the first places at which king Edward III. settled the Flemings whom he invited to this country, to instruct his subjects in the woollen manufacture, of wliich they were before wholly ignorant. The various branches of this manufacture continued to flourish here for some centuries, and afforded subsistence to a great number of the inhabitants of this town, who were chiefly employed in the weaving of says, burying crape, and ship's flags : but Sudbury, like many oth^r places in this county, possessing scarcely any remains of its former trade, which lias fixed its seat in other dis- tricts of the kingdom, is consequently on the decline. Simon de Sudbury, who was archbishop of Canterbury in 1375, and beheaded by the populace in Wat Tyler's insurrection, was a native of this town : his family name was Theobald. He built the upper end of St. Gregory's church, and on the spot where his father's house stood, he founded and endowed a college, which at the suppression, was of the yearly value of 1221. 18s. Leland says, that the same prelate, in conjunction with John de Chertsey, founded here a priory of the order of St. Augustine, though Weever ascribes it to Baldwin de Shimpling and Mabel his wife, who were both interred in the chancel of the priory church. This priory had a revenue, valued at the dissolution at 2221. 18s. 3d. per annum; and part of tlie building, converted into a private habitation, is still standing. In the reign of John, Amicia, countess of Clare, ifounded in this town an hospital, dedicated to Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary ; and a church, or chapel, in its neighborhood, dedi- cated SUFFOLK. catcd to St. BarUiolomcw, was i^iveii to tlie abbey of .Westmin- ster, by WuUVic, master of tbe mint to king Henry 11. upon which a prioiy of Benedictine monks, subordinate to that abbey, was settled there. This priory, of which Kirby has given a print, was pulled down in 1779. The body of Simon of Sudbury, archbishop of Canterbury, was interred in St. Gregory's church in this town, where," says the author of a Tour through Great Britain,* publislied in 1748, his head is still shown. It was not long since entire, covered with the flesh and skin, dried by art ; tlic month wide open, occa- sioned by convulsions, through the hard death he died, having suf- fered eight blows, before his head was cut ofi?' Mr. Gough says, that it is still shewn, tlie skin tanned, and the ears enlire.f It h deposited under a marble stone, four yards long and two broad, ii. the chapel, or the part of the churclj, which was built by himself; the monument erected in honor of him, in the cathedral of Can- terbury, being only a cenotaph. X An inscription in the window of the ehapel, near his tomb, recorded his foundation in these words : Orate pro jDomino Si/uone Thepold, alias Sudbury, qui istam capellam fundavit Anno Domini 1365, iji commemoratione om- nium animarum. Dedicate dat. Consecrat. Sudbury has still a manufacture of says ; and also a small silk manufactory, established some years ago by the London mercers, on account of the dearness of labour in Spitaltields. The town gives name to one of the two archdeacons of this county. Sudbury was the birth place of Thomas Gainsborough, one of the most eminent English painters of the 18th century. He was born iu 1727, and at a very early age, manifested a remark- able propensity for the art in which he was destined so highly to excel. He was sent, while yet very young, for instruction to London, where he first practised the modelling of figures of ani- mals, in which he attained great excellence. He drew, under the L 3 direction * Vol, L p. 33, t Camden II. 154. t See Beauties. Vol. VIII. p. 86t.- 150 SUFFOLK. direction of Gravelot, the ornaments for Houbraken*s heads, and painted small landscapes for sale. At length he undertook por- traits, and after a residence for some years at Ipswich and Bath, he finally fixed his residence in the metropolis, in 1774. His ex- cellence in a short time engaged the notice of his majesty, of whom, as w^ell as of most of the branches of his family, he exe- cuted admired portraits. No other patronage was necessary to raise him to the first rank in his profession, in regard to business and emolument. In other respects, Gainsborough possessed all the characters of original genius. His talents for music were ex- traordinafy, and with very little knowledge of books, he wrote letters in a style, which might have been taken for a close imita- tion of the manner of Sterne. His conversation was sprightly and humorous, and his heart was ever alive to friendly and ge- nerous emotions. He died at his house in Pall Mall, August 2, 1788, and was interred in the church-yard at Kew. Gainsborough had a brother, a dissenting minister at Henley upon Thames, who possessed as strong a genius for mechanics, as he had for painting. At his death, he left all his models of ma- chines, engines, dials, and other curiosities to the painter, by whom they were presented to one of his earliest patrons the well known Philip Thicknesse. A sun-dial, of ingenious contrivance, was given by that gentleman to the British museum. Few men were more highly respected than this worthy divine, who was not less eminent for benevolence, simplicity, and integrity, than for genius. It has also been stated, that an elder brother than ei- ther of these, who continued to reside at Sudbury, was scarcely inferior to them for proficiency in the arts. William Enfield was also born at Sudbury, in 1741. After receiving his educajion among the protestant dissent- ers at Daventry, the congregation a,t Liverpool made choice of him for their minister, when he was no more than 22 years of age. Here he published two volumes of Sermons, and also a col- lection of Hymns and Family Prayers. In 1770 he was ap- pointed tutor and lecturer in the belles lettres at Warrington Aca- demy» SUFFOLK. 151 demy, a situation which he filled for some years with general ap- probation, and unwearied diligence. He was the compiler of many useful books, among the most popular of which may be ranked tlie Speaker, composed of pieces for recitation from the best Eng- lish authors. The Preacher's Directory; tiie English Preacher, a collection of sermons by the most celebrated divines ; Biogra- phical Sermons, on the principal characters of the Old and New Testament, and many single sermons on particular occasions, were also tlie productions of his pen. He likewise published in quarto. Institutes of Natural Philosophy, and had the degree of LL. D. conferred on him during his residence at Warrington. Some time after the dissolution of the academy at tliat place, he was, in 1785, chosen pastor of the Octagon meeting-house, at Norwich, the duties of which charge he fulfilled till his death, on the 3rd November, 1797. Besides his literary labors already enu- merated, he executed the arduous task of abridging Brucker^s History of Philosophy, which appeared in 1791, in two volumes quarto. He contributed largely to the Biographical Dictionary, published under the superintendence of Dr. Aikin. The very numerous list of subscribers to his posthumous Sermons, in 3 vols. 8vo. attest the general estimation in which this amiable, elegant, and justly admired writer, was held. Lavenham, commonly called Lanham, formerly a market town, but now much decayed, is seated on an hill of easy ascent, at the foot of which runs the river Breton, or Bret. It contains 331 houses, and 1776 inhabitants. This place was once famous for its manufacture of blue cloths. For the better regulation of this manufacture, and employing and providing for the poor, three guilds, or companies, of St. Peter, the Holy Trinity, and Corpus Cliristi, were established. On the decline of this manufacture, Lavenham still retained a consi- derable stapling trade for making serges, shalloons, says, stuffs, and spinning fine yarn for London, which became very flourish* ing from the erection of a wool-hall, which being commodiously situated, for the traders of the adjacent parts of the county, was L 4 much 152 much frequented. Of all these manufactures, Laveriham now has nothing, but the spinning of woollen yarn, and the making of calimancoes. A considerable manufacture of hempen cloth, has, however, of late years, been established in this town. It is governed by six capital burgesses, who are chosen for life, and appoint the inferior officers. It has a free-school, a bridewell part of which is appropriated to the purposes of a workhouse, and a spacious market-place, with a stone cross in the centre, but the market has long been disused. It has an annual fair, on Shrove Tuesday, for horses ; and another, on the 10th of October, which lasts four days, for butter and cheese. The church, standing on the hill, at the west end of the town, is not only the principal ornament of Lavenham, but is ac- counted the most beautiful fabric, in its kind, in this county. It is chiefly built of free-stone, the rest being of curious flint- work; its total length is 156 feet, and its breadth 68. The steeple, admirable both for its strength and beauty, is 141 feet high, and 42 in diameter, and has six bells. That some of tlie De Veres, earls of Oxford, and the Springs, Avho were opulent clothiers in this town, were the principal found- ers of this church, is evident, from their arms being put up in so many parts of the building : but we have no certain accoun by which of them, or at what period it was erected. We are in- formed, that " in the time of one Thomas Spring, a rich clothier, this church was old and decayed, whereupon he gave two hundred pounds towards the repairs, and his posterity, joining with the earls of Oxford, the posterity of his daughter finished it.^** Wee- ver tells us, that Thomas Spring, surnamed the rich clothier, died in 1510, and was buried under a monument, on the north side of the chancel ; and that he built both the south and north cha- pels on each side of the chancel ; but he must be mistaken in this circumstance, as appears from two legends, inscribed near the top of these chapels. That on the north side is, Orate pro minis Thomce Springe, Armig. etAUcie uxoris, ejus qui istam capellan\ * AJag. Brit. Vol. V. p. 177. SUFFOLK. 153 fftpeUam fieri feccrunt, Anno Dom. miUimo CCCCC vicessimo ijuinto. And that on the iiortli : Simonis Branvhi ct EHzabct — uxoris ejus qui istam capellam fieri fecerunt. From the first of these inscriptions, it is evident, that Weever's account is erroneous, in res^rd to the time when this part of the building was erected, and from the latter, respecting* tlie person by whom it was found- ed. Of the nionnment which he mentions, not tlie smallest traces are now to be found. In tlie vestry, indeed, there is an old tomb, with this inscription : Orate p aibz Thomce Spryngc qui hoc vestibulum fieri fecit, in vita sua et Margarcte tixor, ei. A. D. millimo CCCCLXXXVI, et p dca—Margarete obijt die 3Icss—A. D. millimo CCCCLXXXTV, fjuor aiabz ppicief, T>e. Amen. Hence it appears, that this Thomas Spring built the vestrjj and it is highly probable, that he, in conjunction with some of the earls of Oxford, who were then lords of the honor of Lavenham, began to erect this elegant structure, and that it was finished by their descendants. This conjecture is strengthened, by the different quarterings of the arms upon the building. Upon the steeple are the arms of De Vere, quartered with those of Ne- vil, Howard, and Montague also those of Monthermer, earl of Gloucester and Hertford, the episcopal arms of Canterbury and London ; and on the top of it, twenty-six coats with the arms of the Springs only. The porch is an elegant piece of architecture, very highly en- riched, and in it are six shields, all within garters, with the arms of ■* It cau scarcely admit of a doubt, that these were the arms of John de Vere, ISth earl of Oxford, who was high chaniberhiin and admiral of Eng- land, in the reign of Edward IV-, and died in 1513. He anarried Margaret, daughter of Richard Nevil, earl of Salisbury', and as he was heir apparent to both the title and estate of his father, had a right of quartering the arms of his mother, who was daughter of Sir John Howard, uncle to the* first duke of Nor- folk of that uamc ; as well as those of his wife's mother, who was the daugh- ter of Thomas Montague, fourth earl of Salisbury. These arms are not within a garter, nv;d it is known that the nobleman in question was not a knight of this order. 154 SI7FFOLK* of the De Veres, impaled and quartered with those of many of the most noble families in the kingdom. They are adorned with boars, which were the supporters of the arms of the De Veres, and upon one of them are the letters I. O. probably intended for the initials of John, the fourteenth earl of Oxford, who was a. knight of the garter, and married the daughter of Thomas How- ard, duke of Norfolk. He is conjectured to have erected this porch, and died in 1529. In the interior, the roof is admimbly carved, and the two pews belonging to the earls of Oxford, and the Springs, though now somewhat decayed, were highly finished pieces of Gothic work in wood. The windows are numerous, and some of them are still embellished with painted glass, representing the arms of the De Veres and others. On the left hand side of the altar is a monument of alabaster, and marble painted and gilded, erected to the memory of the Rev. Henry Copinger, rector of Lavenham. In an arched re- cess between two Corinthian columns, which support a cornice, surmounted with the arms of the family, are represented, in alto relievo, the reverend divine and his wife, facing each other, in the attitude of prayer, both in black, with white ruffs round their necks. On either side, upon a pedestal, stands an angel at full length, with a scroll in his hand; one bearing these words: Dilecti accipite coronam vitce — and on tlie other, Mortui venite ad Judicium. Under the principal figures are three compart- ments. In the middle are seen their children, all habited in black and kneeling before an altar, eight sons, two and two on one side ; and four daughters, singly, on the other. The first of the for- mer is represented cross-gartered down the leg, in the fashion al- luded to, by Shakspeare, in the fifth act of his Twelfth Night. In the pannel on the left, is this inscription : Sacrum raemoriae Henrici Copingeri antiquissima Coplngerorum familia in agro hoc Suffol- t'vemx oriundi, bujus ecclesi« quadraginta «t quinque annos pastoris paci- SUFFOIK* tci, fidelissimi et yigilantissimi, inoaumeutuin hoc amoris «t ptetatis erg* dilecussima uxor Anna omriio optime merenti heu wwita superstes mouQM poauit. Anians maritus, proli foDcundus pater, Sancti pius p»stur gregis. Qui sensa dextre codicis docuttsacri, Kec voce quam vita inagis ; Qui larga abunde pavit indigos manu, Seeurus annonx domi : Hie plenus annis plenior Deo jacet, Setum polo gregem trahens, Mutus jacet ; sed lingua quae vivo dccus Vitani paravit luortuo. The inscription on the right hand side is as follows :— This monument was erected at the sole cost of Mrs. Anne Copinger, in memory of her dear husband, the reverend, learned, and godly divine, Mr. Henry Copinger, (fourth son of Henry Copinger, of Buxhall, in this countie, Esq. by Agnes his wife, daughter to Sir Thomas Jermine, of Rushbrooke-Hall, Knt.) the painful and vigilant rector of this church by the space of forty-five years ; prebendarie of the metropolitan church of St. Peter in York; lord of this town, and patron of the church of Buxhall aforesaid, who married Anne, daughter of Henry Fisher, of Linne in Norfolk, Gent. By her he had eight sons and four daughters ; and after he had lived godly seventy-two years, died peaceably 21st Dec. Anno 1622." Underneath all is this inscription : Jusiorum Memoria bene- dicetur. Of the divine to whom this monument was erected. Dr. Fuller relates the following anecdote: Dr. Reynolds, who held the living of Lavenham, having gone over to the church of Rome, the Earl of Oxford, the patron, presented Mr. Copinger, but on condition that he should pay no tithes for his park, which c(. m- prehended almost half tlie land in the parish. Mr. Copinger told his lordship, that he would rather return the presentation, than by such a sinful gratitude betray the rights of the church. This an- 9 swcr 156 SUFFOLK. swerso affected the earl, that he replied : " I scorn that my «sfate should swell with church goods." His heir, however,' actuated by less liberal sentiments, contested the rector's right to the tithes ; and it cost Mr. Copinger 16001. to recover that right, and leave the quiet possession of it to his successors. In the north aisle is a small mural monument, upon which arc represented a man and woman engraved on brass, kneeling before a table, and three sons and three daughters behind them. From the mouth of the man proceeds a label, on which are these words : In manus tuas dne commendo spiritum meum. Underneath is this inscription, which, like that of the label, is in the old English character: Contynuall prayse these I^rnes in brasse Of Allaine Dister here, A clothier vertuous while he was In Lavenham many a yeare. For as in lyefe he loved best The poore to clothe and feede. So with the riche and all the rest He ueighbourlie agreed ; And did appoynte before he dyed. A speciall yearlie rent, Whiche shoulde be every Whitsontlde Araonge the poorest spent Et obiit Anno Dni 1534. Whatever may have been the nature of this benefaction men- tioned in the preceding inscription, it is now lost, and no person can give any account of it. In the chancel there is a very old grave-stone, which formerly had a Saxon inscription, at present completely defaced. Kirby says,* that in the church-yard, on the tomb of one John Wiles, a batchelor, who died in 1694, is this odd jingling epitaph : Quod fuit esse quod est, quod non fuit esse quod esse Esse quod est non esse, quod est non erit esse. There ♦ Historicar Account of Twelve Prints of Monasteries, &c. in the county of Suffolk, p. ^2. SUFFOLK. 151 There are several substantial charities belonging to this town. Tlie inhabitants were many years since enabled to purchase an estate of 801. per annum for repairing the alms-houses, and sup- porting the poor placed in them. In 1696, Edward Colman, Esq. of Furnival's-Inn, bequeathed 2001. for the education of the chil- dren here ; and such additions were made to this sum by the dona- tions of others, as purchased a convenient dwelling-house and school room, and an annuity of thirty pounds for a master. Mr. Coleman likwise left 2001. to be laid out in land, and the rent to be applied towards binding out one poor boy yearly from Milden, Brent Illeigh, or Lavenham. Lavenham was one of the two hundred and twenty-one lord- ships in Suffolk given by William the Conqueror to Robert Malet, who forfeited his possessions by joining Robert, the eldest son of the Conqueror, on which, in 2 Henry I. that king conferred it on Aubrey de Vere, in whose posterity it remained till alienated by Edward, Earl of Oxford, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, to Paul d^Ewes, Esq. Robert de Vere, in 18 Edward 1. obtained a charter for a yearly fair in this town ; and 3 Edward III. Ro- bert, his son and heir, procured another, authorizing his te- nants at this place to pass toll-free throughout all England ; which grant was confirmed by Queen Elizabeth in the twenty- seventh year of her reign. The lordship is at present vested in Richard Moore, Esq. of Melford. Among the customs peculiar to this place, it may be remarked that the tenants of the manor, and other inhabitants, have always been exempt from serving at any court held for this hamlet ; and that the tenure called Borough English is still to be met with heie. Lavenham was the birth-place of Richard de Lanham, a divine of considerable eminence and great learning, who was be- headed with Archbishop Sudbury by the followers of Wat Tyler in 1381. Thomas Spring, commonly called the rich clothier, if not bwn iu this town, at least acquired his wealth by the trade of it. ^ From StJFFOLK. From him descended the respectable family of that name, of whom "William Spring, Esq. of Pakenham, was, in 1641, created A baronet by Charles I. Sir Thomas Cooke, Loi-d-mayor of London in 1462, was the son of Robert Cooke, of Lavenham. He was arraig-ned under Edward I V. for lending money to the house of Lancas- ter; but though he escaped through the integrity of the judge and jury, with his life, he was heavily fined and long impri- soned. His daughter, Mildred, married William Cecil, Lord Burleigh, lord-treasurer of England, who had a large fortune with her. His descendants, to wliom also he bequeatlied a considerable patrimony, built Gidea-Hall, near Rumford, in Essex, where they flourished for several successions. Neyland is seated on the north bank of the Stour, over which it has a large brick bridge of one arch leading into Essex. From its low situation it is subject to occasional inundations. The woollen manufacture, which was once very flourishing in this town, is reduced to a low ebb, only some yarn being now made for the manufacture of crape and bombazeen at Norwich. It has a mean weekly market on Fridays ; and a fair yearly on the 2d of October. According to the enumeration of 1801, it contained 147 houses, and 881 inhabitants. The church, with its spire steeple standing in the middle of the town, is its principal ornament. It contains nothing remarkable, except a few ancient monuments for persons formerly eminent in the clothing trade. One Abel, a cloth worker, we are informed,* built the handsome porch of this church, in the wall of which he has a funeral monument, and to signify his name, as also to make up his coat-armour, the letter A and the picture of a bell are cast upon the monument. The manor of Neyland was one of those given to Hubert de Burgh by Henry III. when he created him Earl of Kent ; but falling into disgrace with that king, he was obliged to part with several of his castles and lands to secure the quiet enjoyment of the • Magna Britannia, Vol. V. p. 179. SUFFOLK. 159 the rest. In 13 Edward III. it belonged to Lord Scroop, of Masham. This town g avu a title of honor to Sir Richard Weston, son and heir of Sir Jerome Weston, of Roxwell, in Essex, who having been employed in various embassies, and discharged several offices of trust with great integrity in the reign of James I. and his suc- cessor, was by the latter advanced to the peerage by the title of Lord Weston of Neylaud. Being soon afterwards constituted lord- treasurer of England, and appointed a knight of the garter, he was in 8 Cliarles I. created Earl of Portland ; and both tliese honors were enjoyed for some successions by his descendants. The other places in this hundred worthy of notice are as fol- low : — I Acton, formerly called Aketon, a small village standing on the western side of the road from Sudbury to Lavenham. In 9 Edward I. the manor of this parish was the possession of Bobeft de Buers ; but it was afterwaids given by King Edward IV. to Henry Lord Bouchier, for his faithful services to the York family. In this parish was anciently a chauntry of the annual value of 671. 2s. 8 d. Acton Place was formerly the seat of the Daniels, and sold by them to Robert Jeimens, Esq. who began to rebuild this man- sion, which, though a fine structure, was n«wer completely finisl*- ed. His son, William Jennens, Esq. died in 1791, at tlm age of 93, or as some say 100, with the reputation of being the richest subject in the kingdom. On his decease the fine tapestry was torn from the walls, and sold, with the furniture and other moveables. This noble mansion having since that time been in- habited only by an old man and woman, now presents a deplorable spectacle of dilapidation ; and the approach to it cannot be traced but by the colour and height of the grass which has grown over the gravel. The interior still exhibits some vestiges of its former splendor. The hall is adorned with alto relievos ; and the ceiling with an admirable painting of a subject from the heathen mytho- logy. At each corner is also a figure of one of its fabled divinities, At 160 StJFFOLK. At the end, and on each side, are paintings of fruit and animals hy Snyders : and circular recesses contain six busts of admirable workmanship. In the paniiels over the fire-places, in diiierent apartments, are . portraits of the late proprietor and his parents; and the library contains a beautiful fruit piece by Snyders. A curious specimen of tlie female industry of former days still exists, here in what is denominated the Point-Room, the whole of which is hung with needle-work in blue and white, the furniture of the bed and chairs being of the same. The adjoining apartment is. called the Silk- Room, from the elegant painted silk with which it is furnished. Here is yet shewn as a curiosity a small bed, the furniture of which is said to be lined with the skirts of King Wil- liam III. who was god-father to the late owner of this mansion. The offices form wings on each side of the house, and give the whole an air of grandeur, which the more strongly excites regret at its present neglected condition. The garden has fared even worse than the building, for it has been plowed up, and is now cultivated as a field. BoxFORD, five miles from Sudbury, is situated in a fertile aixl highly cultivated valley, between two brooks, w hich unite a little below it. The parish contains ninety-nine houses, and 536 inha- bitants. The town, consisting oi several streets, carries on a considerable trade in malt ; and has a manufactory for dressing sheep and deer skins. Here are two yearly fairs, on Easter- Monday, and December 21. The church is a spacious building, ninety- five feet long, and fifty-two broad, and has a spire steeple. The porch on the south side is of stone ; over the entrance are seven niches, with a number of inscriptions now nearly obliterated. The town contains also a free grammar-school, founded by Queen Elizabeth. About a mile south-east of this v illage, situated in the parishes of Boxford, Stoke, and Ossington, is Psyton Hall, granted by William the Conqueror to Robert Malet, the progenitor of the liucieut family of Pe^iton, by which it was long possessed ; and south- SUFFOLK. 161 south-west of Boxford church is Codenham Hall, a good seat, for- merly the residence of tlie Bennett family, hut now a farm-house. BoxsTEAD was, 9 Edward I. the manor and estate of the ahhey of Bury, hut was afterwards granted, hy what means we are not informed, to Rohert Harleston, who being atlaiiitcd by the fii-st parliament of Edward IV. it was given, with some other manors, to Richard Duke of Gloucester, brother of that monarch. It was afterwards the seat of the Pooleys. This ancient eques- trian family spread itself into the several flourishing brauc'.jcs here, at Columbine Hall in Stowmarket, and at Badley, in the hundred of Bosmero. BuRES, or BuERS, an inconsiderable village situated on the Stour, is the place wiicre, according to Galfridus de Fontibus, St. Edmund was crowned king of the East-Angles. Oar reasons for coinciding with tliose who are inclined to place the scene of tiiat ceremony at Bury, liave already been stated. It has a fair yearly on Holy Thursday. The neat church and spire steeple were formerly great orna- ments to this village; but in 17.33 the spire was set on fire by lightning, and burned down to tlie steeple, v»hich was mucli da- maged. The bell-frames were likewise consumed, and the bells melted. In a tomb on the north side of this church lies the cross- legged figure of a knight, whom tradition reports to have bee!) named Cornard, and to have sold a farm in the parish called Cora Hall, for four-pence, in the time of Henry III. Here are likewise the monuments of the Buers, who took their names from tiiis place. Sir Andrew, who died in 1360; and his son Robert, the following year. Several individuals of the Walgrave family are also interred in this church, as: Sir Richard Walgrave, Knt. who died in 1400, and Joanna, his wife, in 1406, to the inscription on whose tomb is added—" He that prays for others labours for himself/*— Sir Richard Walgrave, Knt. and Joanna, his wife, the daughter of Sir Thomas Montichensy, Knt. who died, the former in 1 434, and the latter in 1450; Edward Walgrave, and Mabel his wife. Vol. XIV. M wh» 162 StJFFOLK. who died in 150G ; and Sir William AValgrave, Knt. and Mar- gery, his wife, without date. Weever giving an account of the antiquity of the Walgraves, informs us, that they were a rich family in Northamptonshire, before the conquest, at which time John Walgrave, resident there, was its representative. One Walgrave, a German, who came over to England with William I. meeting with him, proposed, that if he would give him his only daughter and heir in mar- riage, he would procure a grant, from the Conqueror, to ensure to him the quiet enjoyment of all his lauds and possessions. Th& Knglish Walgrave, accepting the proposal of his German name- ake, the latter obtained a grant from William, under his own hand and seal, confirming to him, and hi^s posterity, all his lands ; which grant, in the French language, was in the hands of the lords of this manor in 1612. This family of Walgrave, or Wal- degrave, resided, for many generations, at Smallbridge, in this parish, now almost entirely demolished ; but f^fterwards removed into the county of Essex. A legacy of 20001. was left, by William Martin, Esq. of Lin- coln's Inn Fields, London, in the hands of certain trustees, that out of the interest, among other things, the sum of 401. might be annualjy paid to the vicar of this parish, and his successors for ever. Brent I^lleigh, a village and manor, belonging to the ances- tors of Sir Henry Shelton, who procured, of King Henry III., the grant of a market for it, long since discontinued. His poste- rity flourished here for many years, but the property was after- wards sold to the family of Colman. Dr. Colman, of Trinity college, Cambridge, built a fine parochial library, at the end of the chancel, and well furnished it with books ; and Edward Col- man, Esq. erected and endowed a neat alms-house, for six poor people : but the last of that family, transferred the estate to his kimiman, Edward Goat, Esq. Cavewdish, is situated on the Stour, between Long Melford and SUFFOLK. 163 and Clare, and is remarkable for giving name to one of the most illustrious houses in Great Britain. A younger branch of the Gernons, a family of considerable note in Norfolk and Essex, being- seated in this village, of which they were lords, assumed the surname of de Cavendish, and produced several individuals of jfreat eminence. Among these, were Sir John Cavendish, who was born in this place, and in 4G Edward III. was made chief justice of the King's Bench, which office he filled with great reputation till 5 Richard II., when the people of this county, instigated by the example of Jack Straw and Wat Tyler, rose in rebellion, under John Raw, a priest, and Robert Westbroom. The chief justice falling into the hands of the rabble, who were exasperated at the intelligence of the death of Wat Tyler, by the hand of his son, was dragged to Bu- ry, and there his head being struck off, was set upon the pillory at the market cross. His remains were interred in the chancel of the church of this place. He had two wives, by whom he left issue, two sons and a daughter. It was his younger son, John, one of the esquires of the body to Richard II. that dispatched Wat Tyler, in Smithfield, for which service he was knighted, on the spot, by the king, who also settled a pension of 401. on him and his heirs for ever. Sir William Cavendish, having in the reign of Edward VI. and Mary, held various important offices at court, obtained a con- siderable portion of the possessions of the dissolved monasteries, and thus laid the foundation of the subsequent splendid fortune of bis house. His son, William, was created, by James I., Baron Cavendish, of Hardwicke, and earl of Devonshire, and was the ancestor of the present ducal house of that name ; aftd from ano- ther branch of the same family, descended the Cavendishes, dukes of Newcastle. The church at Cavendish, a handsome structure, with a square Ibower, is said to have been built by one of the abbots of Bury. M 2 In • See Beauties, Vol. X, 115. 164 SUFFOLK. Iij this paiiisli, about a mile on the road to Clare, is an elegant seat, built by — Hallifax, Esq. banker, of London, which com- mands an extensive and beautiful prospect. Chilton, was formerly the residence of the family of Crane, of which Sir John Crane, Knt. was created a baronet in 16*27, This family, and consequently the title, is now extinct. The estate was purchased by Goldiiig, Esq. of New House, in the pa- rish of Poslingford, in whose family it now continues, being the property of George Golding, Esq. of Thorrington Hall, in the hundred of Blithburgh. The chapel of this place has long been converted into a thatched cottage. The outer walls, built with flint and rag-stone, the door and a window on the north side, two small Avindows at the east end, and one in tlie south front, are almost the only re- mains of the original edifice. CocKFiELD, CoKEFiELD, or CooKFiELD, consists of the ma- Hors of Cockfield Hall, wliich probably formed part of the pos- sessions of Bury abbey; but Sir William Spring, knt. died seised of it 42 Elizabeth. The other is EarPs Hall, so called from its ancient proprietors, the Veres, Earls of Oxford. In that family it continued, till John, earl of Oxford, taking part with the liouse of Lancaster, against Edward IV. forfeited his estates, which were seized by that monarch, and given to his brother Richard, duke of Gloucester. In a few years, however, he was restored to his honors and possessions, by Henry VII. whom he assisted in wresting the crown from the same Richard ; and they were enjoyed by liis successors, till the death of Aubrey de Vere, the last earl of that family, about the year 1710. Both thesa sianors are at present vested in Richard Moore, Esq. of Mel- ford. Edwardston was formerly ji village of considerable note, on account of the lords who formerly resided there. In the time of William the Conqueror, it belonged to Herbert de Monte Canisio, or Montechensy. Of this family, Guarin, or Waryn, was so wealthy, tliat he was called the English Croesus, and, according- SUFFOLK. 165 to Camden, died wortli two hundred thousand marks. The lord- ship, at length, descended, hy marriage, to tlie Watgraves,''who sold it, about the year 1598, to John Brand, a clothier of Box- ford. It then became vested in the family of Brand, and has since passed through several hands. At this place was once a religious house, a cell to the monas- tery at Abingdon, n^ar Oxford : but the monks were removed about the year 1160, to the priory of Colne, in Essex, which ob- tained the impropriation of the great tithes of this parish. It is now the estate of the Bishop of Ely, to whose see it was annexed, in exchange for some valuable manors, by queen Elizabeth, in 1559. Glemsford, was one of the manors possessed by Odo, Earl of Champagne, when Domesday survey was taken; though the church of Ely had possessions here, as early as the time of Edward the Confessor. Some rents are paid out of the lordship to that see, and the inhabitants are exempted from serving on juries elsewhere than at Ely. Glemsford is a very extensive parish ; it has a yearly fi\ir, on June 24; and the manor, at present, belongs to Richard Moore, Esq. Melford, a large and very pleasant village, nearly a mile in length, from which circumstance it is called I tains upwards of 450 houses, and 2200 inhabitaiits. It is situated near the Stour, and has a yearly fair on Whit-Tucsday. The church, standing on a rising ground, at the north end of this village, is a beautiful specimen of the architecture of the fifteenth century, about 180 feet in length, exclusive of the school-house at the end. The small square tower is of more modern erection than the body of this structure. It con- tains monuments for individuals belonging to various families, which formerly flourished at this place. At the upper end of the north aisle, is an altar monument, to the memory of William Clopton, Esq. son of Sir Thomas Clop- ton, whose figure in armour lies upon it. He died in 1446. On the front of the monument is a brass plate, with a Latin epitaph, in old English characters, which shews, that however the virtues M3 of 166 SUFFOLK. of the subject, might entitle him to the lave of mankind, when alive, the muses did not much befriend him after his death.* Under * It is to this gentleman, that a writ, issued by the court of chiv;ilry, re- lates. This curious document, which shews with what formality affairs of ho- nor were formerly adjusted, is preserved among the Harleiun MSS. (No. 1178^ and thus entitled in the catalogue, " A writ, in French, of John, Duke of Bedford, comtabie of England, requiring John, Duke of Norfolk, and mar- shal of England, to bring William Clopton, of Suffolk, Esq. to answer in tlie court of chivalrie, to Robert Eland, of the county of Lincoln, Esq. who charged the said William Clopton with putting his seal of arms to a false and forged deed.' It is as follows : *' Johan Filz, frere et uncle au roys, due dc Bedford et d'Anjoy, conte de Richmond, et de Kendal, et connestable d'Angleterre, a notre trescher cou- sin Johan, due de Norfolk, marschal d'Angleterre, saluz. Nous vous man- dons et chargeons, que vous fates arrester et venir devant nous, ou notre lieu- tenant a Westminster, a la quinsime de saint Hillar, prochain venant, William Clopton, de contc de Suff. Esquire, pour adonques respondre devant nous, ou notre lieutenant, en la cour de chivalerie, a Robert Eland, Esquire, de conte de Nicholl,(LiucoIn) dece que le dit Robert ad unques lui surmettra par voie, d'arraes, touchaiit ce qu'il fauxment et encontre honest^ et gentilesse d'arraes, a mis et appos6 le seal de ses armes a un faux et forge fair, aux domages dit Robert de Clb. et plus, a ce qu'il dit. Reraandants par devant nous au dit jour ou icest notre mandement, tout se que vous en avez faitz. Donne soubs le seal de notre office le 23 jour de Novembre, Tan du regne du notre senior le roy Henry sisime depuis le conquest d'Angleterre septiesme." Whether the court came to any decision upon this serious charge, or whe- ther any combat ensued, does not appear : but probably neither, for we soon after find the parties engaging in another court, and with arras very different from those of chivalry. Tn Easter term, 8 Henry VL William Clopton, and "William Galyon, Esquires, brought an action in the King's Bench, against Roger Bernardiston, of Kedyngton, in the county of Suffolk, gentilraan, and Robert Eland^ of Ratheby, in the county of Lincoln, gentilnian, and Eliza- beth, his wife, for having caused to be published at Kedyngton and Melford, two deeds, by virtue of which, the said Robert and Elizabeth, claimed the manor and advowson of Haustede, to the disturbing of the said William and William, in the possession of the same, to the damage of m1. The affair was not determined in this court, but referred to arbitrators, by whose award the charge of forgery was retorted and established against Eland. SUFFOLK. 1G7 tJmler all altar monument of grey marble, within an arcli, uke of Norfolke ; and mother unto the right noble and puissant prince. Lord Thomas Howard, Duke also of Norfolke. Which ladie departed this present life, Ann. Dom. 145-2.'' In this church is aho buried Margaret, the second wife of the same duke, and daughter of Sir John Chedworth, who, after his dt cease, ujanied John Norreys, Esq. and died about the 9th year Henry VII. afford' s Hall, in this parish, is the seat and property of Wil- liam Mannock, Esq. in whose family the estate has been vested ever since the time of Henry VI. It was then purchased by Phi- lip Mannock, who, as appears by the family pedigree, had pre- viously resided at the neighbouring village of Stoke, in tlie eiiurch of which are some ancient inscriptions relative to different persons ■SUFFOLK. 171 persons of his family. The house suirounds a quadrangular court; the entrance is by a tower gateway, said to have been built in the beginning of tlie reign of Henry VIII. by Peter Clifford, a distant relation of Aune Builen. Thouyli its style is evidently of that period, and the mansion Avas probably then erected, it does not seem likely that it should have been raised by a Giflbrd, if it was then in the possession of the Maunocks. The whole is of brick, the mouldings of the windows, doors, and other ornaments, being- of the same matei ial. Opposite to tliis entrance, are some remains of an old chapel.* Tendring Hall, anciently belonged to a family of that name. William de Tendring, had a grant of a market and fair, at Stoke by Neyland, 31 Edwainl I. About the year 14-21, Sir William Tendering, left Alice, his daughter and heir, who married Sir John Howard, Knt. the immediate ancestor of the dukes of Nor- folk. From that family it devolved to the Lords Windsor, and after the reformation, became the seat of that of Williams. Sir John Williams, Knt. and lord-mayor of London, in 1736, built a fine seat here, wliich, by purchase, became the property of Sir William Rowley, one of the lords of the admiralty. Joshua, his son, gave many proofs of courage and conduct in the naval ser- vice, for which he was created a baix)net, in 1786. On his death, in 1790, Tendring Hall became the property of his son and suc- cessor. Sir William Rowley, the present baronet. Sir William Capel, draper, and lord-mayor of London, in 1503, and ancestor of the noble family of Essex, was a native of Stoke. Of this gentleman, our historians relate some extraor- dinary anecdotes. It is said, that after a splendid entertainment, which he gave to Jlenry VII. he concluded the whole with a fire, into which he tlirew a nunibcr of bonds, given by that king, for money borrowed of him. On another occasion, to shew his af- fection • A soutb-we!»t view of this gateway, was etched by Dr. Roberts, in 1779. An etching of it is likewise given, in Britten's Architectural Antiquities, Part xvur. 172 SUFFOLK. fection for the same monarch, he dissolved a pearl, which cost him some hundreds of pounds, and drank it, to the king's health, in a glass of wine. Notwithstanding his loyalty, he was un~ mercifully fleeced by the avaricious Henry ; but contrived to re- trieve his affairs, by industry and commerce, so that he died wealthy, in age and honor.* HUNDRED OF THEDWESTRY. This hundred is bounded on the south, by the hundreds of Ba- berg, and Cosford ; on the east, by Stow ; on the north, by Black- bourn; and on the west, by Thingoe. It contains no market town. The principal villages are as follow : Ampton, anciently the lordship of the abbot of Bury. The family of Calthorpe, which long resided at Ampton Hall, be- came extinct, in the person of Sir Henry Calthorpe, K. B. who dying, in 1788, devised all his estates to the male heir of his sis- ter, Barbara, wife of Sir Henry Gough, of Edgbaston, War- wickshire, on condition that his nephew should assume the sur- name of Calthorpe, which was accordingly complied with ; and in 1796, he was elevated to the peerage, by the title of Baron Calthorpe, of Calthorpe, in the county of Norfolk. His second son, who succeeded his elder brother, in 1807, is the present pro- prietor of Ampton. The park of Amptoyi Hall, and that of Livermere, belonging to Nathaniel Lee Acton, Esq. join ; and the owners, says the in- genious Mr. Young, with a harmony, very unusual, made a no- ble serpentine river through both, and built a large handsome bridge over it, at their joint expence, by which means they orna- mented their grounds, to a degree otherwise impossible. In Lord Calthorpe's park, the water forms a bend against the slope of a w^ood, * For a farther account of Sir William Capel, and his descendants, se<' Beauties, Vol. VII. Wj, SUFFOLK* 17» wood, which lias a very noble effect, and " upon the Whole," con- tinues the author just mentioned, " this river, considering it is fprmed out of a trifling stream, is one of the finest waters I have seen, in the grounds of any private gentleman. Mr. Lee (the fa- tlier of the present proprietor) has a shrubbery, of about twenty acres, cut out of his park, that is laid out in a very just taste. The water and scoop in it, are particularly beautiful ; the first winds through a thick planted wood, with a very bold shore ; in some places wide, in others so narrow, that the overhanging trees join their branches, and even darken the scene, which has a charming effect. The banks are every where uneven ; first wild and rough, and covered with bushes and shrnbs ; then a fine green lawn, in gentle swells, with scattered trees and shrubs, to tlie banks of the water, and seats, disposed witli great judgment; and at the termination of the water, the abruptness, and ill effect of that eircumstance is taken off, by finishing with a dry scoop, which is amazing beautiful ; the bed of the river is continued for some distance, along a sloping lawn ; w ith banks on each side, planted and managed with great taste ; nor did I conceive that weeping willows, could any where, but hanging over water, have been attended with so beautiful an effect, as they have on the steeps of these slopes. At Ampton i» a comfortable alms-liouse, for poor, unmarried women, built and endowed in pursuance of the will of Mrs. Do- rothy Calthorpe, a maiden lady, of the family of tlie present no- ble proprietor of Ampton. Her benefaction is commemorated ia Uie following inscription, on the front of the edifice : MDCXCiri. Dorothea Callliorpe, Hospitium hoc fundavit Virgo in virgliiuui soiamcn. Contiguous to the building is a walled garden, over the en- trance' to which is inscribed : Tarn voluptati quam saluti. The' f74' SUFFOLK, The same lady, in consideration of her once having resided at Bury, left, by her will, to that town, the sum of 5001. the interest of which, was to be employed in binding out poor boys apprentices. This sum, however, fell short, ffom losses in her estate, and bad debts owing to it* besides which, it is to be presumed, that she directed her charity at Ampton to be first provided for. Barton, called Great Barton, to distinguish it from Little Barton, or Barton Mills, in the hundred of Lackford, was for- merly the lordship of the abbot of Bury. Part of the posses- sions of that monastery, known by the name of Ox-pasture, and containing one hundred acres, was granted, 31 Henry VIII. to Sir Thomas Kit^ion. It was afterwards the estate of the ancient family of the Cottons, who resided at Necton Hall, in this pa- rish. The manor, and a considerable estate, devolved to Sir Thomas Hanmer, Bart, by his marriage with the daughter, an4 heiress, of Thomas Folkes, Esq. and at his death, became the property of his nephew, the Rev. Sir William Bnnbury, Bart, who laid out the gardens, and improved the grounds with great taste. His son, Sir Thomas Charles Bunbury, the present pro- prietor of Barton, who has represented the county of Suffolk, in nine parliaments, built the fine large room^, which forms part of this mansion. \ Bradfield Combust, called also Brent, or Burnt Brad- field, probably received its surname from the destruction of Bradfield Hall, in 1327. This mansion then belonged to the convent of Bury, and was burned to the ground, at the time of the violent attack made by the townsinen of that place on the abbey and its possessions. Bradfield is remarkable for being the birth-place and residence of a man, to whom the community at large owes greater obliga- tions than, perhaps, to any other living character. His indefati- gable exertions for the promotion of agriculture, the main source of the prosperity of a state, will entitle the name of Arthur Young to the veneration of the genuine philanthropist, even ^iBiong remote posterity. The manor and estate of Bradfield Halh SUFFOLK. Htill, the seat of this gentleman, was purchased, by one of his ancestors, in 1620, of Sir Thomas Jermyn, of Rushbrook. It stands upon a range of high land, which runs through the whole ^unty. Two small brooks, rising in this parish, take contrary directions ; one passing to Bury, and j)roceeding to the sea at Lynn; the other running to Lavenham, and felling into the ocean, at Harwich. Notwithstanding tlie elevation of this spot,, timber here thrives extremely well ; and having been scrupulously spared for many years, Mr. Young's small property is beautifully wooded with many fine trees. In 1725, his father, the late Dr. Young, formed an avenue of limes, which are now remarkably beautiful ; and the present possessor has planted above forty thou« sand larch, aad other trees, as nurses to oi ] s, sown thirty years ago ; so that it is likely to continue well wooded, for many years, to come. In some of his publications, Mr. Young has explained the great advantage resulting from such plantations, and espe- cially from the more beautiful trees of an estate. He iias aka done something in the way of decoration, by water and shrub- beries, and much improved the old mansion, which contains a copious and valuable library. Reduced, after a life of uncommon activity, to a state of total blindness, the father of improved British agriculture, still devotes his time, with the aid of an amanuensis, to the illustration of his favourite pursuit^ with whicli, the unim- paired faculties of a vigorous mind, are still incessantly engaged. He is consequently, at present, without any farm ; but the fields ©f his estate, when in his own hands, were tlie scene of a great variety of experiments, the result of which have cither been laid before the public, in his Annals of Agi icuUure, or are reserved for a work, on which he has been occupied for many years. In the neighbourhood of Bradfield Combust, are two other Brad- fields, distinguished by the additions of St. Clare and St. George. The church of the latter stands in so elevated a situation, that from the steeple, though only 66 feet high, may be seen sixty churches in the circumference, which embraces part of Essex, Nor- folk, and Cambridgeshire, 6 Al 176 SUFFOLK. At Drinkstone is the seat of Joshua Giigby, Esq. who^^ about 1760, erected the house, whicli is a good one, and sur- rounded it with handsome plantations. About the same time the Rev. Richard Moseley, rector of the parish, built here one of the best parsonages in tlie county. FoRNHAM St. Genoveve, is remarkable for the splendid vic- tory gained there in 1173, by Robert de Lucy, chief justice of England, at the head of the army of Henry II. over the Earl of Leicester, the general of the foreign troops employed by his re- bellious sons. Near Rymer House, about six miles from Bury, on the road to Tlietford, are still to be seen the places of their in- terment. There are numerous tumuli, or barrows, denominated the Seven Hills, from the number of the largest, under which it is conjectured that the commanders were interred. At this place is the seat of Sir Charles Kent, whose father, Charles Egleton, Esq. assumed the name of Kent, in compliance >vith the w ill of his maternal grandfather, and was created a baronet in 1782. The church of this parish was on June 24,1782, consumed by fire, occasioned by the inadvertence of a man who was shooting at jackdaws. At FoRMiAM St. Martin, some tumuli are still to be seen i» a meadow, about a quarter of a mile south of the church. In thi» parish is llie pleasant seat of the rector, the Rev. Dr. Ord. Hesset j", or Hedgsett, was formerly the lordship of the ab- bot of Bury, by tlie gift of Earl Ulfketel, and granted, 32 Henry VIII. to Thomas Bacon, Esq. From tlie Bacons who resided here from the reign of Henry II. to tiiat of Charles I. it passed through various hands, to I'liomas Leheup, Esq. whose descendant, the present proprietor, has a niansion here. The church, a handsome structure, was erected by the Bacons; and in it several of that fa- mily are interred. In the cliancel of Great LiveUmere church is interred the Rev. William Martin, father of the well known antiquary, honest Torn Martin, of Palgravc. He died in 1721, aged 71, and a mo- 9 numcnt SUFFOLK. 177 iiumcnt was erected to his memory, and that of his family, by his son, then the only survivor. The benefices of Great and Little Livermere arc consolidated, and are in the gift of Nathaniel Lee Acton, Esq. w ho is also the lord of the manor. Pakenham is remarkable for having contained the seats of two families, elevated in the seventeenth century to tlie honour of baronetcy, but both now extinct. The one was that of the Springs, descended from Thomas Spring, tlie rich clothier of Lavenham, and the other that of the Ashlields, who resided at Netlier Hall, in this parish. John Ashfield was the first high sheriff of Suffolk, separated from Norfolk, 17 Elizabeth; and was the ancestor of Sir John Ashfield, of Nether Hall, Knt. created a baronet in 1626. RouGHAM was given to the abbey of Bury, by Earl Ulf ketel, and granted, 34 Henry VII. to Sir Arthur Drury, in whose family it continued till 1640. Rougham Hall, formerly part of the estate of the Drurys, is now the property of Roger Kedington, Esq. In this parish is also the manor of Eldo, otherwise Old Hall, or Oldhaugh, as it is styled in the most ancient records. It was a grange of the ab- bot of Bury, was granted by Henry VIII. with other large pos- sessions to the Jermyns, and now belongs to M. T. Cocksedge, Esq. At the north-east corner of Rougham church, is an ancient monument of Sir Roger Drury and his lady, the daughter and sole heiress of Sir Robert Naunton. They are interred beneath a flat stone, adorned with their figures in brass, about four feet high, and this inscription in black letter :— Hie jacet Diis Kogus Drury miles quiobiit die JNIenn. . . , Anno Domini I\I<>CCCCo et Marficria Ux' cj' que obiit iiij die Meus Se{)lelj' Aimo Domini M<'CCCCVo quorum aiab', &c. This is supposed to be the most ancient monument of the Drurys that can be ascertained. Its preservation, as of many others, is owing to a pew having been built over it. If pews, as Vol. XIV. N Weevcr 178 SUFFOLK. Weever complains, hide many monuments of the dead, they can- not be denied the merit of having saved some from destruction. On the north side of the chancel is a mural monument, to the memory of Sir Robert Drury and his lady, the youngest daugh* ter of Sir William Drury of Hawsted. From the inscription it appears that she died in 1621 . The date of his death at the age of 82, is left incomplete, thus 162. . . . Two singular purchases, which tend to illustrate the manners o^r the higher classes, between two and three hundred years ago, are recorded to have been made by a lady of that family. By inden- ture, dated 10 Henry VIII. Sir William Waldegrave, Knight, sold to Margaret Drury, of Rougham, widow, the wardship of Edmund Wrest, to be married with Dorothy Drury, her daughter. By an- other indenture of the like date, it appears, that the same lady bought of Robert Radcliffe, Lord Fitz waiter and Egremont, the wardship of Elizabeth Day, one of the daughters and heirs of Ro- bert Day, late of Sterstone, Norfolk, deceased, whom she married to her second son, Francis. RusHBROOK, the manor of which formerly belonged to the ab- bey of Bury, has been remarkable since the dissolution for the family of Jermyns, * who resided at Rushbrook Hall, and pro- duced many persons of considerable eminence. Sir Thomas Jer- my n was privy counsellor and comptroller of the householdto Charles I. and his second son, Henry, was master of the horse, and cham- berlain to the queen. The exertions of the latter in behalf of the king during the civil war, were rewarded with a peerage; and in 1644, he was created Lord Jermyn of St. Edmundsbury. When Charles had fallen into the hands of his enemies, this nobleman attended the (pieen, to whom he is even said to have been pri- vately • We find that abont the middle of the 16th century, Edmund Jermyn, Esq. gave an annuity of 401. per annum, out of the manor of Torksey, in Lincolnshire, for the relief of the poor of Bury. At Rushbrook Hall there is a good portrait of this gentleman, in a strait-waisted doublet, and a round bonnet, adorned with flowers and jewels, dated A. D. 1567 ; atatis sua 50 His benefaction is recorded on the painting. SUFFOLK. 179 Talely married, to tlie continent, and was employed by Charles II. during his exile in various embassies, in which he acquitted himself so much to the satisfaction of his master, that in 1660^ he was elevated to the dignity of Earl of St. Alban's, and ap- pointed Lord Chamberlain of the king's household. He died without issue, and the earldom, being limited to him, became ex- tinct. His title of Lord Jermyn descended to Thomas, the eldest son of his brother ; and Henry, the second son, was created Baron of Dover by James II. but died in 1708, without issue. This family concluded in heirs general, the eldest of whom car- ried this seat and estate to the family of Davers, by marriage with Robert, only son of Sir Robert Davers of Rougham, wlio, in 1682, was created a baronet. The title became extinct on the decease of Sir Charles Davers, Bart, in 1806, wlien the estate de- volved to Robert Rushbrook, Esq. whose family was once in pos- session of this place, from which it derives its name. Rushbrook Hall is a noble spacious mansion, moated round, with a plain front to the north, and two wings running to the south, and forming three sides of a square. The park belonging to it is very extensive. This place witnessed some of the festivities occasioned by Queen Elizabeth's visit to the county in 1578, when, as we are told,'' Sir Robert Jermyn of Roesbroke, feasted the French em- bassadors two several times, with which charges and courtesie they stood marvellously contented.^' In the church are several monuments of the Jermyns. At Welnetham, as we are informed by Camden, were for- merly found great quantities of potsherds, and platters of Ro- man manufacture, some of which had inscriptions; also aslies, bones of sheep and oxen, many horns, a sacrificing knife, urns, and other relics. Here also Sir Richard Gipps, in 1701, met with the head of a Roman spear, a sacrificing knife, vessels, coins, bricks, and pateras, one of which was inscribed anisi m*. N 2 That * Collect. Burieas, ^ 180 surrOLK. That geutleinan, descended from an ancient and respectable fa- mily in this county, and well versed in its antiquities, resided here. He died in the manor-house, in 1708, and was buried in the church without an epitaph. WooLPiT is a considerable village on ilie road between Bury and Stow Market, the parish containing i08 houses, and 625 in- habitants. After the dissolntioji, tlie manor, advowson of the rectory, a warren, and oliier lands, in Elmswell and Woolpit, were granted to Sir Robert Gardiner, as parcel of the possessions of Bury Abbey. Tiie lordship of the manor now belongs to Joshua Grigby, Esq. of Drinkstone. At this place is made a very white kind of brick, equal in beauty to stone ; hence denominated Woolpit brick, of which most of the ma-.isions recently erected in this county are built. The church is a fine Gothic structure, but has a mean spire. The noith porch is highly decorated, and has a room above it. Over the entrance are five niches, with ornamental finials. A pe- cnliarity which I have not elsewhere observed, is a niche in each of the two buttresses, at the corner of the chancel. In a close m^ar the east end of the church, is a spring, which is still called our Lady's spring. Tradition reports, that the church formerly contained a shrine to the Virgin Mary, to which pilgrims resorted, and that there was a chapel near the spring but no vestiges of it are now left. The spring is quadrangular, and bricked, and supplies a large moat with very clear water. From Camden's derivation of Woolpit, and the synonymous British Cldiiim, Dr. Gale is inclined to place Sitomagus here ra- tiicr than at Tlietford, because tlie numbers agree better, and also on account of certain large and deep ditches, which he conjectures to be Roman remains. Woolpit is certainly an ancient place ; Ro- man coins are frequently discovered there ; the distances seem la answci-, and other circumstances of names to concur. HUNDRED STanoLK. 181 HUNDRED OF BLACKBOURN. On the north the hundred of Blackbouni is separated from Nor- folk by the river Oiise ; on the east it is bounded by the hundred of Haiiismere; on the soutii by Stow, Thedwestry, and Thingoc, and on the west by Lackford. IxvvoRTii, the oidy market town in this hundred, is but a mean place, eonlaining- 133 houses, and 8'27 inhabitants. Its market is on Friday, and it has two fairs, on IM ay-day, and the 18ih of October. At this place was formerly a priory cf canons reg'ulur of St. Augustine, founded about the year 1100, by Gil- bert de piund, or Blount, in a pleasant valley near the river Tiiet, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It received many be- nefacUons, being valued at its suppression at 2801. 9.s. 5d. ac- cording to Speed; but, as Dugdale says, at 16SI. 19s. 7d. Fiom a monnmental inscription in the churcli, on the north side of the altar, it appears that the possessions of this liouse were granted by Henry VIII. to Richard Codington, and Elizabeth his ^Yife, in exchange for the manor of Nonesuch, in Surry. On tiie spot whero the priory stood, a neat mansion was built by the Norton family, to whom it for some time belonged. The other places worthy of notice in this hundred are : AsHFiELD, an obscure village, but remarkable for being the birth-place of the late Lord Tluirlow, and his brother, the late Bishop of Durham. Their father the Rev. Thomas Thurlow, vicar of this parish, married Miss Elizabeth Smith, whose fa- mtly liad long resided here, at a seat called the Lee, and died in 1762. Edward, their eldest son, w^as born in 1735. He was educated under the auK[)ices of liis parent, and at a proper age renjoved to Caius College, Cambridge, but did not obtain a de- gree. On leaving the University, he entered himself of the In- ner Temple, was called to the bar, and remained unemployed, N3 ami 182 SUFFOLK. and unknown, until his abilities were called into action in the Douglas cause.* He now attained to such professional distinc- tion^ that he was appointed solicitor-general in 1770, attorney- general the following year, and lord-high chancellor in 1778; on which occasion he was elevated to the peerage, by the title ot Baron Thurlow of Ashfield. In April 1783, he resigned the seals, which were again delivered to him in December, the same year. In 1786 he obtained the lucrative appointment of teller of the Exchequer, and was afterwards created Baron Thurlow of Thurlow. But the most remarkable period of his life was the epoch of his majesty's illness, in 1788 and 1 789. His integrity then shone conspicuous ; and his speeches on the regency question, will re- main a record of unshaken rectitude. That declaration which may be said to have electrified the House of Peers ; — " When I forsake my king in the hour of his distress, may my God for- sake me!'^ is worthy of being engraven upon his tomb. In 17^3, disapproving the course adopted by the ministry of that day, he again resigned his high office, and passed the remainder of his life in dignified retirement. The talents of Lord Thurlow, even out of the line of his profession, were so splendid, that Dr. Johnson liimself appears to have been afraid of him. " I would prepare myself," said the great lexicographer, " for no man in England but Lord Thurlow. When I am about to meet him I sLouhl wish to know a day before.*' f His lordship, who was ne- ver married, died at Brighton, September 12, 1806. His next brother Thomas, who embraced the clerical profession, was elevated to the see of Rochester in 1779, translated in 1787, to ihat of Durham, and died in 1791. He married Anne, daugh- ter * On this occasion he w as counsel for I\Ir. Douglas, and received a clial- leiige from Mr. Andrew Stuart, who had been one of the guardians of the Duke of Hamilton. The meeting took place in Kensington Gardens, and his nntagonist remarked, that Mr.Thurlow advanced, and stood up to him like an elephant. t Bosweli's Life of Johnson, Vol. IV. p. 342. SUFFOLK. 183 tcr of William Beer, Esq. of Lymington, in tlie county of South- ampton, and his eldest son, Edward, succeeded, on his uncle's demise, to the barony of Thurlow. Bardwell, is said to have given name to the family of Berd- welle, who resided here as early as the time of William the Con- queror : and Sir William Berdwell, a celebrated soldier, whose effigies in painted glass still remains in the north window of the church, died seised of this manor in 1434. Barnham consists of two parishes, St. Martin's and St. Gre- goi7's, and formerly had two parish churches : but that of St. Martin has long been in ruins. Near Barnham and between this place, Euston, Rushford, and Thetford, is a row of ten or eleven tumuli, which, according to the conjecture of Mr. Bloomfield, the historian of Norfolk, mark the scene of the sanguinaiy engage- ment between king Edmund and the Danes in 870. At CuLFORD, formerly the demesne of the abbey of Bury, is the chief country residence of Marquis Cornwallis, the widow of one of whose ancestors married Sir Nathaniel Bacon, half-brother to Sir Francis. It is a neat comfortable house, agreeably situated in a park. It was built in 1591 by Sir Nicholas Bacon, the first baronet of England, eldest son of the lord-keeper, and half-bro- ther to the lord-chancellor; and was given by him, with an estate of 1 0001. per annum, to his seventh son Nalhanicl. This gentle- man was created knight of the Bath at the coronation of Charles I. and married Jane Meautys, widow of Sir William Cornwallis, by whom he had a son, who died withoul issue, and a daughter, mar- ried first to Sir Thomas Meautys, and afterwards to Sir Harbottlo Grimston, Bart. Sir Nathaniel was an eminent painter ; and some specimens of his art still exist at Gorhambury. The small neat church of Culford was built by Sir Stephen Fox, whose daughter was the wife of the third Lord Cornwallis. Within it is buried Sir Nathaniel Bacon, svhosc monument is adorned with a very good marble bust of him, and an epitaph, which in- forms us that he was well skilled in the history of plants, and the tu t of delineating them with his pencil, His lady is also interred N 4 here. 184 SUFFOLK. here, -with an inscription, giving her a high character, as liaviiig supported and saved from ruin two ancient families into which she had been married. Elmswell. Tiie church of this village, which has a very- handsome tower, stands on an eminence, commanding a truly de- lightful prospect. It contains an elegant mural monument for Sir Robert Gardiner, Knt. who, as appears from the inscription, was chief justice in Ireland eighteen years, during the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and died February 12, 1619, aged eighty years. The monument is in very good preservation ; the figure of Sir Robert, nearly as large as life, and well executed, is in a recumbent pos- ture, and his son is represented as kneeling at his feet. . The remains of the pedestal of a stone cross, which appears to have been curiously carved, are still to be seen in the church-yaid ; adjoining to which are alms-houses, built and endowed by the above-mentioned Sir Robert Gardiner, for six poor widows. At this place was one of the country seats belonging to the abbot of Bury. EusTON, a village, pleasantly situated on the Lesser Ouse, was formerly the lordship of a family of that name. It after- wards descended to the family of Pattishall, and from them to Sir Henry Bennet, who, for his adherence to the house of Stuart, was appointed secretary of state by Charles II. and created Lord Arlington, Viscount Thetford, and Earl of Arlington. Hef built Eustou Hall ; and 'left an only daughter, Isabella, married to Henry Fitzroy, one of the natural children of King Charles II. by the Duchess of Cleveland, who was created by his father Earl of Euston and Duke of Grafton, and was the ancestor of the pre- sent noble proprietor of Euston. Euston Hall is a large commodious mansion built of red brick, and destitute of superfluous decorations either within or without. The bed-chambers are on the ground floor ; and the principal apartments above, according to the ancient fashion, derived from the old castles, which were so constructed for security. The hou^e • Goiigirs Caipdcn, IT. 163. SUFFOLK. 183 house is surrounded by trees of uncommon irrowth, and of the most healthy and luxuriant appearance : near it glides the river Ouse, over which is thrown a neat and substantial wooden bridge. The scenery about this mansion combines the most delighlful assemblage of rural objects, and is justly celebrate — No kindred bow'd, — no wife, no children there : Its horrid nature could inspire a dread, That cut the bonds of custom like a thread. The humble church-iow'r higher seem'd to shew, lUurain'd by the trembling light below ; The solemn night-breeze struck each shiv'ring cheek, Religious reverence forbade to speak : The starting sexton his short sorrow chid. When the earth raurraur'd on the coffin lid ; And falling bones, and sighs of holy dread. Sounded a requiem to the silent dead. With this poem, written in favor of vaccine inoculation, Dr. Jenner was so well pleased, that he presented its author with a durable memorial of his esteem. For a neat memoir of the life of the poet, and fartlier particulars respect- ing his family, the reader is referred to the Illustration of his Works already quoted. 9 18» StTFFOLK; At LANGHA3I is the seat of Sir Patrick Blake, \Those father was created a baronet in 1772. At Little Livermere, or Livermore, is an elegant seat built by Mr. Coke, by whom it was left to the Duke of Grafton, ynho for some time resided there. It next became the property of Baptist Lee, Esq. who considerably improved the house, sur- rounded it with a large park, and made it his seat. This gentle- man's fortune was augmented by a prize of 30,0001. in the lottery. His son, Nathaniel Lee Acton, Esq. is the present proprietor. The grounds are flat, but well wooded, and adorned with a fine artificial piece of water, already described in treating of Ampton in the hundred of Thedwestry. At Norton, near the south-western extremity of this hundred, Henry VIIL is said to have been induced, by a credulous kind of avarice, to dig for gold. He was disappointed in his search, the vestiges of which were still visible a few years ago. Sapiston,. a pleasant village, is worthy of notice only for having been the place where Robert Bloomfield commenced his career as the Farmer^s Boy, a situation -wliich introduced him to an acquaintance witii those employments which he has delineated with such felicity and correctness. The church, like many others in this county, is covered with thatcl], from which circumstance it has more than once been nearly unroofed by the pilfering of the jackdaws. In the church-yard lie buried Mr. Austin, the kinsman and master of Giles, (the Far- mt r's Bof/ ) Mrs. Austin, and nine of her infant children. The manor belongs to the Diikc of Grafton. At Stowlangtoft resided Sir Simonds D'Ewes, one of the most learned and indefatigable antiquarians of the seventeuth eeiitiiry.* Part of his maii^ion-lioiise, called Stow llall, was pulled down The MS. Journal of the life of this gentleman, by himself, in the British Museum, (*) contains some very curious particulars, that tend to throw light on a part of English histor\-, and many anecdotes not generally laiown. Sir (*) llail. MSS.No. 6 16. , SUFFOLK, 189 Uowii several years ago ; but the remains, in 1782, received great additional improvements from its present possessor, Sir Walter Rawlinsou, Sir Siinonds having minuted down most of the facts that he records soon after they happened, his narrative carries with it a degree of autheniicity, to which modern history cannot lay claim. It extends to very minute particulars, h\ which he interweaves several matters relative to his friends, the public affairs of the nation, and of Europe in general. It reaches I'roai Iiis birth in Decem- ber 1602, to May 1636, ending abruptly. (*) In the Harlcian Library (f) is " the lineal descent and pedigree of the an- cient family of Ewes, or Des Ewes, sometime lords of the dition of Kessel in the dutchie of Gueldcrland, which faniilie, by the recesse of Adrian D'Ewes, the true heere thereof, into England, in the reign of Hcnr;^ VI II. is now seated at Stow Langtoft, in the county of Suffolk, by the Englisli contractions only of the name of Des Ewes into D'Ewes," written by the hand of Sir Si- nionds: and another in Latin, illuminated with the arms beautifully painted. AdVian D'Ewes died in London of the sweating sickness in 1551, leaving four sons, Gerard, or Garret, James, Peter, and Andrew. The portraitures of Adrian, and his wife, Alice Ravenscroft, were, in the window of St. Mi- chael Bassishaw church in London, engraved by Weever, with a Latin in- scription. Gerard, or Garret, was the stationer who lived at the sign of the Swan in St. Paul's Church-yard, from 1562 to 1581, whose rebus was a house with two men in a garret casting deux at dice, (+) He purchased the manor of Gaines, in Upminster, Essex, and died in 1591, leaving Puul, his son and heir, one of the six clerks in Chancery, who sold Gaines, and bought Stow Hall, at Stov.'langtoft. The figure in armor of Gerard, in brass, on his grave- stone, in the chapel at Gaines, is delineated with the Latin inscription in Weever's Funeral Monuments : (§) and we are told in the octavo History of Essex, (11) that this monument remained in Upminster chapel at the time of its being taken dovvn and rebuilt by Sir James Esdaile. Sir {*) To this are added his will in English, wriiien by liimself, dated March 28, 1626; a translaticni of his will from English into Latin, dated Septem- ber 19, 1639 ; and another will drawn up by himselt in Latin, dated July 31, 1641, vvilh an imperfect transcript of it. (f) No. 381, f.?34. ( + ) Ames, 320. Camden's Remains, art. Rebus. (§)P. 653. (1!) Vol. IV. 3S6. 190 srFPOLK. Rawlinson, -who inherited it from his father. Sir Thomas, Lord- mayor of London in 1754, by whom the whole parish was pur- chased in 1760. The Sit Simonds was the son of Paul D'Ewes by his wife Sissilia, daughter and sole heiress of Richard Simonds, Esq. of Coxden, a hamlet of Chard- stock, in the county of Dorset, where he was born December 18, 1602. He was educated in the school at St. Edmund's Bury; and at the age of six- teen was admitted a fellow-commoner of St. John's College, Cambridge. At eighteen he began to collect materials for a correct and complete history of Great Britain, in which he spent thirteen years ; and the manuscript memoirs of his life, shew his attention to preserve the history of his own time. This naturally recommended him to the notice of Sir Robert Cotton and Mr Sel- den, two of the greatest scholars of that age. The example of the former was. followed by his friend in the care with which he digested the great collections made by him, and now preserved in the British Museum. His literary en- gagements, however, did not interfere with his public services. He was liigh sheriff of Suffolk in 1639 ; in the long parliament the following year he •was elected a burgess for Sudbury; and in July 1641, created a baronet. On the breaking out of the civil war he adhered to the popular side, and look the solemn league and covenant in 1643 ; but this did not prevent bis feeing turned out of the parliament house by the army in 1648. From that time lie seems to have given himself up entirely to the prosecution of his studies and literary designs, " those greater labors," as he calls them, conceiving himself not to be born for himself alone, according to the old saying so familiar to him : Melius mori quam sibi vivere. He collated and transcribed several an- cient records and muniments, particularly the Black Book of the Exchequer, which he had thoughts of publishing, and his transcript of which remains in the British JVIuseum. A copy was left by Sir William Dugdale to the Ash- niole.Tn Museum, and was printed by Hearne, in two volumes, at Oxford, 1728, from a transcript given him by Mr. Graves, of Mickleton, and the various readings and notes of D'Ewes at the end, marked with his initial, all the ■while professing not to have consulted the original in the Exchequer. He compliments Sir Simonds with the epithet inillis rehus vtrsatissimus. The in- dustrious Weever acknowledges himself much beholden to him. (*) All that Sir Simonds published in his life, was a speech delivered in parliament, on the antiquity (*) Fun. Men. p. 208, 397, 660, 718, &c. SUFFOLK. 191 The church, which is a handsome building, stands within a double-trenched camp ; and in a field about half a mile from it, was found, in 1764, a pot full of Roman coins of the lower empire. In a farm called Red Castle, in the adjoinin^j parish of Pakenham, a fine tesselated pavement was discovered. At antiquity of Cambridge, which he asserted against Oxford, in an accidental debate in the House of Commons in 1642, on levying subsidies ; an occasion, when we should have naturally expected the members of the legislature to be better engaged than in quibbling about dates. The Brief Discourse con- cerning the power of Parliament in cases of Judicature, 1640, is still in dis- pute between D'Ewes and Selden. Sir Simonds died April 18, 1650, in his 48th year, and was succeeded ia his estate and titles by his son Willoughby, to whom his father's Journals of Parliament were dedicated, on their publication by his cousin, Paul D'Ewes, Esq. of the Middle Temple, son of Sir Sintjond's brother, Richard. He°was bu- ried in the church of Stow Langtoft, and Kirby informs us. that in the chancel there is a noble monumenl to his memory, (*) but this is contradicted by Mr, Gough, (Camd. II, p. 162,) who says, that there is no memorial of him extant in the church, and that the register of the time has not beeu preserved. He caused arms and inscriptions to be annealed in glass, and put into the windows of Stow Hall, to shew the descent and matches of his family, (t) He married^ 1628. Anne, daughter of Sir William Clopton, of Kentwell, Knt. In his will m 16S9, he was not determined where to be buried, but left it to be where his wife determined herself to be interred. He also left a Latin epitaph for both, with directions that it should be inscribed on a brass plate, to be placed upon their tomb. Their issue was six sons, and several daughters. To these in succession, Sir Simonds bequeathed his, " pretious librarie," his coins, autograplis, &c. with an injunction to keep them all together, under the penalty of forfeiting 1()(K)1. with the library, &c. to his wife, or other sur- viving children, and so to his brother Richard; subject to the express condi- tion of letting it be free of access to all lovers of learning. From his de- scendants it w;is probably purchased by the earl of Oxford. The pictures at Stow Hall, he left to his son Adrian, or to his own brother and sister. Among^ (♦) Suffolk Trav. second edit. p. 236. f These are preserved in Uarl, MfeS. 333. f. HI, \92 SUFFOLK. At Troston is Trosfon Hall, the seat of Capel Lloft, Esq. a gentleman well known in the literary world. It is one of those mansions of a former age which give an idea of comfort, and hos- pitality rather than of cold magnificence. It contains a copious library, and tlie proprietor has been at considerable pains to make every appendage consistent with his own peculiar taste. To this end, he has inscribed almost every tree in his garden and its vi- cinity, either to names of classic celebrity, to such as are en- deared by the ties of kindred and friendship, or are venerable for the superior virtues of the persons who bore fhem. Thus we find Homer, Demosthenes, Cicero, Milton, and many others ; a large elm is denominated the Evelyn elm, after the celebrated antiquary and planter; and to commemorate a visit to Troston Hall, of the great philanthropist Howard, in 1786, a laurel was planted, and now bears his name. Bred to the bar, and still oc- casionally exercising his professional talents at the quarter ses- sions and assizes for the county, Mr. Lloft here relaxes, in the more pleasing pursuit of the belles lettres, and especially poe- try ; astronomy also constitutes one of his favourite recreations. His works have been chiefly on legal and political subjects. He is not only an author himself, but has proved on various occasions, the warm patron of literary talents in others ; and to him the pub- lic are in a great measure indebted, for the introduction of the Farmer's Boy to their notice. Before this estate devolved to the family of the present posses- sor, it belonged to that of Maddocks. It was purchased in 1680, by Robert Maddocks, Esq. of whose father is related the follow- ing anecdote, which exhibits a remarkable instance of the fluctu- ations Among tlie numerous Iransci ipls made by or for liiin, and preserved in the Ilarleian Library, are the following relating to this county? : The original register of Bury Abbey, entitled Crojtis lor the Pitancer's use. Another register of the same house, entitled Werktloric, Collections for the County of Suffolk.* • Bibl. Topog. No. XV, Pref. SUFFOLK. 193 ations of family greatness. He is said to have been descended from the Maddockes of Wales, who formerly possessed the so- vereignty of that principality ; but the same combinations of events which deprived them of a crown, reduced him to extreme distress. Though he could boast of a regal ancestry, he was ac^ tually obliged, at the age of thirteen, to traverse the distance be- tween Wales and London, on foot, friendless and alone, in search of employment. On his arrival in town, having heard that Cheap- side was the most likely place to obtain what he wanted, he re- paired thither, and after some time, observed a merchant soil his shoe in crossing the street. Full of ardour for any circumstance that might give rise to employment, he availed himself of this, and immediately ran and cleaned the shoe. The merchant, struck with the boy^s attention, enquired into his situation, and having heard his story, took him into his service. After some time, he was employed in the counting-house ; and in the sequel, became a partner in the firm, and acquired a considerable fortune.* At Troston was born^ in 1713, Edward Capel, the maternal uncle of Mr, Lloft, a writer distinguished by his commentaries on Shakspeare, and by his beautiful edition of the works of that im- mortal dramatist, in 10 volumes 8vo. on which, as he says in the dedication, he had bestowed the attention of twenty years. In Ibis introduction, Mr. Capel announced his intention of publishing a. further work on the various readings of Shakspeare, with com- fnentaries and remarks. He was proceeding in perfect security with this plan, when a host of literary dramatists, with Stephens it their head, adopted his ideas, and using greater expedition in heir researches, laid the promised treasures prematurely before he public. This unexpected stroke nearly staggered the critic, vlien on the very eve of the completion of his labours: and though hey had occupied nearly forty years of his life, he had not the atisfaction of seeing the result of them in print. He died on the Vol. XIV. O 24th •Illustrations of Bloonificld^ p. 46, 47. where likewise is a view of Troston lall. 1^4 SUFFOLiC. 24th January, 1781, and it was not till 1783, that his Notes and Various Readings of Shakspeare, made its appearance, in three- quarto vohimes. Mr. Capel was also the editor of a volume of ancient poems intituled Prolusions, and altered Anthony and Cleopatra as acted at Drury Lane in 1758. He held the office of deputy inspector of plays, to which is attached a salary of 2001. per annum. West Stow Hall, in the parish of the same name, a spacious brick mansion, formerly surrounded a quadrangular court, wa& moated, and well adapted, by its interior arrangement, to baro- nial customs and festivities. Its builder is unknown, but from the armorial bearings on the porch, it is presumed to have been erect- ed about the beginning of the 16th century. The arms are those of the princess Mary, the wife of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suf- folk. The building is now much reduced in size, and used as a farm-house. The embattled pediments, diamond-shaped tracery, and finial statues, are chiefly entitled to notice, as curious and unusual appendages in buildings of this order. In this mansion, a large collection of armour was formerly preserved.* From a mural monument in tlie church of West Stow, it ap- pears, that the manor, in the time of Edward III. belonged to the family of the Crofts. It afterwards formed part of the vast pos- sessions of the abbey of Bury, after the dissolution of which, it passed through the hands of the Kitsons, Bacons, Progers, and Fowkes, and is at present vested in Marquis Cornwallis. HUNDRED OF HARTISMERE. Ilartismere is bounded on the west, by Blackbourn ; on the Morth, by th^ river Waveney, which parts it from Norfolk; on the east * An etching of Weat-Stow Hall, is given in Britton'u Architectural An- tiquities, Part XVI. SUFFOLK. 195 cast by the hundred of Hoxiie ; and on the south, by the hun- dreds of Bosmere and Claydon, and Stow. In the year 1779, this hun or moat ; and except on the north side, a proportionable ranrpart- still entire. Toward the north, upon a high artificial hill, of steep ascent, and also surrounded with a deep moat, stood tbe keep, or strong tower, the foundation of which now remaining is very thick, and apparently circular. On the west side is a pretty large space, in form resembling an oblong square, that seems to have been an out-work of the castle, the east side of which abuts upon the moat before-mentioned^ and is somewhat irregular. The norti) and west sides are rectangular, and encom- passed with a smaller moat, as was perhaps the south side, though there is now no appearance of it. The ground occupied, or inclosed, by all these works, exceeds seven acres. The manor and park of Haughley were the estate of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, from whom they came by purchase, or exchange to the crown, and v. ere afterwards granted to Sir John Sulyard, of Wetherden. The manor is very extensive, and the lord formerly possessed a jurisdiction of Oyer and Terminer, try- ing^ all causes in his own court, of which instances may be found 9 so SUFrOLK. 209 so late as 11 Elizabeth. Thus at a court held, 15 Edward IV. the lands, tenements, &c. of John Buxton, of Stow, were seized because he had vexed one William Turner, by the writ of our lord the king-, contrary to the ancient custom of the manor, that no tenant should prosecute another tenant, in any court except this. At another court in the same year, it was ordered, that the abbot of Hales, in Gloucestershire, to whom the parishes of Haughley and Slielland were impropriated, should erect a new pair of gal- lows, in Luberlow field, in Haughley, under a penalty of forty- shillings; and in the 8th year of the same reign,William Baxteyn held certain lands by the service of finding a ladder for the lord's gallows *. Haughley Park was lately the residence of G. W. Jerningham, Esq. eldest son of Sir W. Jerningham, Bart, who manied Frances, daughter and co-heiress of the late E. Sulyard, Esq. but the public papers state, that in October 1811, this manor, extending over 2442 acres, 22 dwelling-houses, and 28 messuages, with the spa- cious mansion-house and offices, and a park and land containing about 396 acres, were sold for 27,8401. exclusive of timber. Newton was one of the estates belonging to Margaret, Coun- tess of Salisbury, at her death, 33 Henry VIII. This lady was the daughter of George, Duke of Clarence, brother to Edward IV. by Isabel, the daughter of Richard Neville, the celebrated Earl of Warwick and Salisbury. She married Richard Pole, Lord Montague, whom she survived, and upon her petition to Henry VII. obtained the possessions of her grandfather, and the title of Countess of Salisbury. It was probably her proximity in blood to the royal house of York, that gave umbrage to the jea- lous tyranny of Henry VIII. who caused her to be accused of a traitorous correspondence with the Marquis of Exeter, her son Cardinal Pole and others. She was accordingly attainted of high treason ; and in the 70th year of her age, beheaued in the Tower of London, with circumstances of great cruelty. She had been Vol. XIV. P con. ♦ Kirby'^ Suffolk Trav. 2d Edit, p 188--1P0. 210 SUFFOLK. condemned, as was not unusual in that reign, without trial, and. •when she was brought to the scaffold, refused to lay her head on the block, in obedience to a sentence, the justice of which she would never recognize. Slie told the executioner, therefore, that, if he would have her head, he must win it the best way he could, and ran about the scaffold, while he pursued her, aiming many fruitless blows at her neck before he was able to put an end to her life. Newton Hall, with her other estates, passed however to her son Henry Pole, Lord Montague. Onehouse was in the time of Edward III. the estate of Bartholomew Burghersh, who died seized of it in the 43d year of that king. He was one of the twelve noblemen, to whose care the Prince of Wales was committed at the battle of Cressy. On the site of the old hall, encompassed with a moat, in which he is supposed to have resided, a farm-house has been built. The grandeur and solitary situtition of the ancient fabric probably gave name to the parish, the greater part of which, two centuries ago, was a wood, except a narrow strip declining to the south- east, near that distinguished mansion, seated on a rising ground, that gently sloped into a valley, with a rivulet, winding through it. About two hundred yards to the north of the moat, stands the church, which is small, and has a font of unhewn stone. It ap- pears to have been a Saxon building ; but a part of the north wall only, extending about ten yards from the tower, which is circular, is all that remains of the original structure. Not less than one-fifth of the lands belonging to this parish at present, consists of woods and groves, finely planted with timber; and even part of the rectorial glebe, adjoining to the parsonage- house, is a wood of ten or twelve acres. At Wetherden was situated Wetherden Hall, the seat of the ancient and respectable family of the Sulyards, which, to judge from its ruins, must have been a large and noble building. It remained their residence till the reign of Queen Mary, who, to reward the fidelity of Sir John Sulyard, the first that took up arms and levied men for her service against the supports rs of Lady Jane SUFFOLK. 211 Jane Grey, made a grant to him of the manor and park of Haugh- ley, on which he erected a mansion there. His son, Edward, adhering to the religion of his ancestors, suffered much during the next reign for recusancy, notwithstanding tlie unimpeached loyalty of his sentiments and conduct. The fidelity of Sir Edward, the grandson of the latter, to the cause of Charles I. brought on him the imprisonment of his person, and the sequestration of two- thirds of his estate, during CromwelPs usurpation : but when Charles II. recovered his throne, he was restored to his posses- sions and his liberty. His descendants continued at Wetherden for several succeeding generations. In this village is a very neat church, the porch of which, and a large aisle continued from it to the chancel, were built by Sir John Sulyard, who, in the pedigree of that family, is called a judge only ; but in the Baronetage of England, is said to have been lord chief justice of England. A grant of free-warren here, was, 1 Richard III. confirmed to him and to Ann his wife, who was the daughter of John Andrews of Bailham in this county by Elizabeth Scratton, and lineal descendant of Humphrey Bohun, Earl of He- reford and Essex, and of his countess Elizabeth, daughter of King Edward I. Round the porch of this church, and along the chan- cel, are finely carved the arms and quarterings of the family of Sul- yard to the period when the aisle was built. HUNDRED OF COSFORD. • Cosford is bounded on the west by the hundred of Babergh ; on the south by the same and Samford; on the east by Samford, \ and Bosmere and Claydon ; and on the north by Stow and Thin- ' goe. It contains seventeen parishes, and one market-town. Hadleigh, a considerable place, situated on the north-side of the river Breton, contains 467 houses, and 2486 inhabitants. It formerly enjoyed the privileges of a corporation, and was governed P2 by ,^\% SUFFOLK. by a mayor, aldermen, and common council ; but a quo warranto being brought against them, they surrendered their charter during "the reign of James II. and no other has since been granted. The town liad also two weekly markets, but now only one on Monday. Its fairs are on the Tuesday in Whitsun-week, and the lOth of October. The woollen trade, which once flourished in this town, is reduced to tlie spinning of yarn for the manufactures of Nor- wich. The principal ornament of Hadleigh is the church, which stands in tlie middle of the town, and is a handsome structure, with a spire steeple. A very handsome altar-piece was erected in the chancel by Dr. Wilkius, one of the late rectors; and both the church and parsonage-house were greatly improved and beautified by his successor, the Rev. Dr. Tanner. But the church of Had- leigh is principally noted as the bni ial place of Guthram, or Gor- mo, the Danish chieftain, who being defeated by king Alfred, consented to embrace Christianity, and had the government of the country of the East-Angles assigned to him. Here he reigned twelve years, and dying in 889, was interred in this church ; but it may be remarked, that the tomb shewn for his does not bear the appearance of such antiquity. Mr. Gougli observes that there is pnly a long arch, with a bouquet on its point, in the south wall, of much later date. Before the rectory -house stands a venerable brick gate, with two hexangular towers, built with the house by William Pykenham, dean of Stoke College, and rector of this place about 1490. Twelve alms-houses for decayed housekeepers, were also found- ed here by liim in 1497, and have a small chapel for their use. A Sunday school has been established in tliis town, and is sup- ported by voluntary subscriptions. Hadleigh is remarkable for tlie martyrdom of Dr. Rowland Taylor, who was rector of this church, and suffered in the san- guinary persecution under Queen Mary, for his adherence to the doctrines of the Reformation. He was burned February 9, 1555, on StJFFOLK. 21^ »n the common in this parish, usually, though improperly, called Aldham Common. On the place of his execution was erected a stone, with this mis-spelt inscription ; Anno 1555. Dr. Taylor for defending what was god. In this place siied his blud. BiLDESTON, a small town, meanly huilt, contains 115 houses, and 741 iuhahitants. It was once noted for its manufacture of blue cloth and blankets, which are now dwindled away to the spinninj^ - of yarn. This place had formerly a market; and has now two fairs, on Ash-Wednesday and Ascensiou-day. The church, a good building-, stands upon a hill on the west side of the town; and besides it, there Avas formerly a chapel dedicated to St. Leonard, in which there was a chauntry called Erding ton's chauntry, where, long after tlie Reformation, divine service used often to be performed, on account of the distance of ^ the church from the town. At this place is a neat cottage^ the seat of Richard Wilson, Esq. Brettenham is supposed by some antiquaries, arguing both from the sound and signification of the name, to be the Combre- tonium of Antoninus ; and the vestiges of a camp a quarter of a mile to the south-west of the place seem to confirm the conjecture. Others, however, as we have seen, place this station at Ickling- ham, near Mildenhall, in tlie hundred of Lackford. Tiie family of the Wenyeves resided at this place almost two centuries ; and a gentleman of that name still inhabits a good house here, surrounded with a park. At Chelsworth, on a rising ground near the church, are the remains of the foundation of a stone building, which appears to have been very capacious, and surrounded by the river Bret; Near them is a field called the Park, and a small wood denominated the Park Wood ; from which circumstances the edifice is supposed to have been the residence of some persons of consequence. The P 3 manor 214 SUFFOLK. manor formerly belonged to the family of Howard, the ancestors of the Dukes of Norfolk, and afterwards to that of the Veres, Earls of Oxford. In 1737, it became, by purchase, the property of Robert Pocklington, Esq. who erected here a handsome man- sion, now occupied by Sir Roger Pocklington, Bart. Elmsett. The church of this village, pleasantly situated on a hill, is built of flints, and covered with slate. The interior is particularly neat and clean. On a mural monument in the chancel is a kneeling figure of a man with a book open before him, his arms above, and underneath this inscription : " Here lyeth the body of Edward Sherland, of Gray's Inn, Esquire, descended from the ancient family of the Sherlands, in the isle of Sheppy, in Kent, who lived his whole life a single man, and died in this parish the 13th of May, 1609. " Tombes have no use unless it be lo showe The due respect which friend to friend doth owe ; ■Tis not a roausolean monument, Or hireling epitaph, that can prevent The flux of fame : a pain'ed sepulchre Is but a rotten trustlesse tieasarer. And a fair gate built to Oblivion. But he whose life, whose ev'ry action. Like well wrought stones and pyraraides, erecte A monument to honour and respecte, As this man's did — he needs no other herse. Yet hath but due, having both tombe and verse." Near the north side of the church stands the house, formerly the parsonage, now much decayed, but once surrounded by a moat. On the descent of the opposite hill is a dropping well, which deserves the inspection of the curious. Elmsett is remarkable as the native place of John Boyse, an eminent scholar and divine, who was born here in 1560. His fa- ther, himself a great proficient in the Greek and Hebrew languages, was first curate, and afterwards rector, of this parish. The son, who is said to have manifested ^uch a precocity of talents, that by . the OF THE imRSlTV OF ^U^^ SUFFOLK. 215 the time he had attained his fiftli year, he could read tlie Hebrew Bible, was educated at St. Jolin's College, Cambridc:e. Here he acquired the reputation of being the first Greek scholar of his time, and was chosen Greek lecturer. He used to deliver his lectures at four o'clock in the morning in his own chamber ; and so numerous was the attendance, that it was said, " there used to be as many candles lighted in St. John^s at that early hour, as the bell which then rang, gave tolls." He once designed to apply himself to the study of physic, with a view of making it his profession ; but being troubled with a weakness frequently incident to pasons of a d-eli- cate constitution, that of believing themselves to be afflicted with every disease of which they read, he turned his attention entirely to divinity. On the death of his father, he succeeded him in the rectory. When King James I. ordered the new version of the Bible to be made, Mr. Boyse was chosen one of the -Cambridge translators, and executed not only his own share, which was part of the Apocrypha, hut likewise that of one of his colleagues. He was also appointed one of the committee of six to revise the whole, each member of which, while engaged in the task, was paid by the Stationers' Company thirty shillings per week. After this he assisted Sir Henry Savile in translating the works of Chrysostom,"^ for which laborious task he received only a copy of the book. The highest preferment which this indefatigable divine obtained, was a prebend in the cathedral of Ely, given him by Bishop Andrews. He died January 14, 1643. Kersey is memorable only for a Priory of Benedictine monks, according to some writers, or as others say, of Augustine Canons, tledicated to St. Mary and St. Anthony. It was granted by King Henry VI. to King's College, Cambridge. P 4 Kettil- • Sir Henry expended t^vo tliousand pounds in printing one thousand copies of this publication; and so entirely was his attention engaged during the progress of the work, that his lad^, thinking herself neglected, one day said to him : " I wish I were a hook too, and then you would respect me a little more." — " Madam/' replied a person present, '* you should then be aC^ almanack, that he might change you every year." SUFFOLK. Kettilbarston. In 23 Henry VI. this manor was granted, together with that of Nedding, to William de la Pole, Marquis of Suffolk, to hold by the service of carrying a golden sceptre with a dove on the top, upon the coronation day of the king's heirs and successors ; and a sceptre of ivory with a golfl dove on the head, upon the day of the coronation of the then queen, and all suc- cessive queens of England. The Waldegraves are said to have had their seat at the Hall here, which afterwards descended to the Lemans, and "from them to the Beachcrofts, to which family it still belongs. In the parish of Semer is situated the house of industry for the hundred of Cosford, which was incorporated In 1 779. This struc- ture was erected the following year. The average number of paupers is 180; and their principal employment spinning yarn for Norwich. The original debt contracted by this hundred was 8,0001. which has been paid off, and the poor's rates have been reduced to three-eighths. Wattisham is worthy of notice for the singular tenure by which the manor is held, that is, by the serjeantry of jumping, belching, and f— t— g before the king, as appears by the memo- randum in the exchequer of the 21st Edward I. Whatfield, or Wheatfield, " is chiefly remarkable," says the Suffolk Traveller, " for growing the most excellent seed wheat;'' from which circumstance its name may perhaps be de- rived. Here, in 1788, died the Rev. Thomas Harmer, minister of a congregation of dissenters, a man distinguished for his attain- ments in Oriental literature, his antiquarian knowledge, and his unaffected piety. He was born at Norwich in 1715. The most important and valuable of his publications was entitled : Observa^ tions on divers Passages in Scripture^ in four vols. 8vo. HUN- «UFr©LK< HUNDRED OF BOSMERE AND CLAYDON. Tlie hundreds of Bosmere and Clay don, incorporated in 1765^ are bounded by the liberty of Ipswich and the iiundred of Sam- ford on the south ; on tlie east by Tliredling- and' Loes ; on the north by Hartismere ; and on the west by Stow and Cosford. The only market- town in this hundred is Needham Market, containing 247 houses, and 1348 inha- bitants. It was formerly a place of considerable trade from its woollen manufactures, but these are now dwindled to nothing. The town, however, is tolerably well built; it has a weekly market on Wednesday ; and a considerable fair yearly on the 28th of October, and two following days. The church, a mean building, with a wooden belfry, is a chapel of ease to Barking. The authors of the Magna Britannia * assert, that Needham became so much decayed, that its poveiiy grew proverbial. At present, however, it is not much behind any market- town in the county for improvement. The Stowmarket canal passes by the place, and has greatly augmented its corn trade. Near the town is a lake of thirty or forty acres, called Bosmere, which gives name to the hundred. The Gipping passes through it, and is said to be of great depth, and to abound in fish. At Barnham is the house of industry for the incorporated hun- dreds of Bosmere and Claydon, erected in 1766, at an expense of 10,0001. The number of parishes incorporated is thirty-five, and the yearly assessment 25611. The principal employment of the j^oor in this house, whose average number amounts to about 200, is spinning for the manufacturers of Norwich. In the chancel of the church, says the Suffolk Traveller, there is a noble monument for one of the Southwells. Here also is in- terred Helena, wife of Edward Bacon, Esq. of Shrubland Hall, third son of Sir Nicholas Bacon, lord keeper, with an inscription, ivhich records a remarkable instance of fecundity : Helena * Vol. V. p. 200. •218 SUFFOLK. Helena Filia unica et Hcrres Thoraae Litle de Bray in Comi- tatu Berk. Armig. vixit annos 37 ea Vitce integritate, Animique immtmitate ut Uxor, Mater et Arnica inter primos haheretur. Hcec tamen post parfum XIX. Filiorum et XIII. Filiarum, annorum phis minus 82 expiravit, Anno Redemptionis 1646, Julii 24. At Battisford . was formerly a hospital of St. John of Jeru- salem, of the yearly value of 531. lOs. which, at the dissolution, ■was granted, 35 Henry VIII. to Sir Richard Gresham. His son. Sir Thomas, the celebrated founder of the Royal Exchange in London, had the frame of that edifice constructed here upon the Tye, a common of about 200 acres ; and most of the timber em- ployed in the work was the growth of his estate at this place.* Bayi.ham became, about the year 1450„ the property of John Andrews, whose daughter, Elizabeth, having married Thomas Windsor, Esq. it devolved to their son. Sir Andrews Windsor, of Stanwell, afterwaids elevated to the peerage by the title of Lord Windtior. Bramford is remarkable for an uncommon tenure attached to its manor. The tenants hold of the lord by a lease of twenty-one years, renewed from time to time upon a fine; and in case of death or alienation, the new tenant is admitted to the remainder of the term, so that the lord derives a greater profit from the lands than the tenants. Bramford Hall, the seat of tlie late Nathaniel Acton, Esq. comraandijig a delightful view, has lately been re- duced to a farm-house. At Bricet a priory was founded in the time of Herbert Lo- singa, bishop of Norwich, by Radulfus Fitzbrian, and Emma, his wife. It was dedicated to St. Leonard, and endowed by them with lands and tithes; and, among the rest, the tithes of Smith- field, in London. Almeric Peche, a descendant of the founder, con- firmed all the gifts of his ancestor, and obtained permission of Walter, then bishop of Norwich, to have a chantry in his chapel at 4 Cole's MSS. in the British DIuseora. The sawing-pits remain to this daj, adds that writer. SUFFOLK. 219 at Bricet, upon condition that the chaplain should, inspectis sa- crosa7ictis Evangeliis, swear to pay all tlie oblations he received in the chapel to the raother-churcii, and not to admit any parish- ioner to either sacrament, unless in immediate danger of death ; and that Almeric himself, in token ofliis submission to the mother- church, should repair to it with his family on the five holidays of Christmas, Easter, Whitsunday, the Assumption of tlie Blessed Virgin, and St. Leonard's Day. This house having been made a cell to Nobiliac in France, was suppressed 6 Henry VI. as an alien priory ; on which its revenues were granted to the provost and fellows of King's College, Cambridge, who are lords of the manor. In the parish of Coddenham stood Shruhland Hall, where Edward, third son of the lord keeper Bacon, became seated by his marriage with the heiress of Little. One of his descendants, Nicholas Bacon, erected a new mansion in a very pleasant park, which contains the finest Spanish chesnut-trees in the county. This edifice having been pulled down, a new one was built in its stead, and is now the residence of Sir William Middleton, who was created a baronet in 1804, and is major-commandant of the Bosmere and Claydon volunteers. It commands an extensive prospect along the Norwich road. Here is also a manor called the Vicarage, because it is vested in the vicar for the time being. The vicarage-house, the residence of the Rev. Jolm Longe, the present incumbent, is embellished with several admirable paint- ings by Gainsborough. Creeting is a name possesesd in common by three contiguous parishes in this hundred, and a fourth in that of Stow, distin- guished by the additions of All Saints, St. Olave's, St. Mary, and St. Peter. The church of Creeting All Saints is a very an- cient building; that of St. Olave was standing in 1532, when John Pinkeney ordered his body to be interred in the chancel ; but it has long been demolished, for which reason the two rectories were consolidated about the year 1711. The manor of Gratinges in Greeting St. Olave was given by Robert 220 SUFFOLK. Robert Earl of Morton in Normandy, and of Cornwall, in Eng- land, in the time of William the Conqueror, to the abbey oi Grestein in Normandy, which afterwards erected a priory here. This tlie abbot and convent sold in 1347, by the king's licence, to Sir Edmund de la Pole, by the name of the manors of Mikelfield and Greeting. The manor and advowson of Greeting All Saints were vested for a considerable time in the respectable family of Bridgeman, by whose heirs they were sold, together with their other estates in these two parishes, to Philip Champion Crespigny, Esq. The churclies of Greeting St. Mary, and of Greeting All Saints, stood very near together upon an eminence, from which they might be seen at a considerable distance, and were commonly called Greeting Two Churches ; but one vf them was not long since pulled down, and was found to have no foundation, the ground having merely been levelled, and then built upon. St. Mary was, in ancient times, generally styled the priory of Greet- ing, and was a cell to the abbey of Bernay in Normandy ; but, on the suppression of those foreign houses, was made part of the endowment of Eton College, to the provost and fellows of which it now belongs. At Ciiovi^ FIELD, a hamlet of Coddenham, is Crowfield Hall, which formerly belonged to the family of Woodhouse, and de- scended through several hands to the present proprietor. Sir William Middleton, Bart, who is also lord of the manor. The Hall is at present occupied by B. Stead, Esq. Helmingham, has been for many years the seat of the very an- cient and noble family of Talinache, or Tolleniaclie. In Domesday- book, Toelinag, 9.s the name was then written, is said to possess^ lands, &c. Hugh Talmache subscribed the charter without dnte, made about the reign of Stephen, to the abbess of Godstow in Ox- fordshire. The family was at first seated atBentley, in the hundred of Samford. In 2o Edward I. we find that the manor of Bently was held of the crown by Hugh de Talmache, a chief baron, who four years afterwards had a summons to attend the king iu his expedi- tion SUFFOLK. 2^1 tion to Scotland. Lionel Talmache having married the heiress of the Helrainghains of Helnangham, acquired that inheritance, and made this place his residence. His grandson, Lionel, was high-sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk 4 Henry VIII ; and the grandson of the, latter, of the same name, was high-sheriff of Suffolk in the 34th Elizabeth, who conferred on liini the honor of knighthood. His son, Lionel, was created a baronet on the first institution of that dignity. May 22, 1611. Sir Lionel, great grandson of the first baronet, on the death of his mother, the daughter and heiress of the Earl of Dysart, succeeded by the law of Scotland to the honors of that house. He for many years represented the county of Sufiblk in parliament, till the act of union in 1708 declared him a peer of Great Britain. He was also lord-lieutenant, cus- tos rotulorum, and vice-admiral of Suffolk. The fourth in succes- sion from him is Wilbrahara, the present Earl of Dysart, high- steward of Ipswich. Helminghani Hall is a quadrangular structure, with a court yard in the centre, built about the time of Henry VIII. of red brick, which a few years since was covered with a white composition. It contains a few fine paintings; a good library, chiefly of early printed books, in excellent condition; and a considerable collection of ancient armour. The house, com- pletely suiTounded by a moat filled with water, is approached by two draw-bridges, which still continue to be drawn up every night. The moat, as well as the bason in the park, is frequented by great numbers of wild fowl of different species, which are almost tame, ijom the encouragement given them by the express orders of the noble proprietor. The park, comprehending 400 acres, contains some of the finest oak-trees in this part of the kingdom, many of which are of great age. It is well stocked with deer, the number l)eing seldom less than 700 : among these are a few stags, or red deer, which are remarkably large. The church, embosomed in wood, stands by the side of the park, and, with a cottage, inhabited by a person who takes care ef the vault and splendid monuments of the Tolleraache family, forms 222 SCFFOLK. forms a beautiful and picturesque object. Here, among otlier gallant warriors, is interred the heir of the family, who fell be- fore Valenciennes in July, 1793. A monument by NoUekens has recently been erected to the memory of the lady of the present earl. Hemingston. This manor seems to have been held by ihe same kind of tenure as that of Wattisham, in the hundred of Cos- ford, already mentioned. Camden's account of this place is as follows : — Here Baldwin le Petteur (observe the name) held lands by serjeautry, for which he was obliged every Christmas- day, to perform before our Lord the King of England, one saltus, one suffiatus, and one humhulus ; or, as it is read in another place, he held by a saltus, a suffiatus, and a pettus ; that is (if I apprehend it right) he was to dance, make a noise with his cheeks, and let a f — t. Such was the plain jolly mirth of those, days Nettlested belonged to the Earls of Richmond and Brittany, from the time of the Norman conquest to 17 Henry II. when that family became extinct. By a special charter, dated May 1, 1241, this, with other estates, was given by Henry III. to Peter de Sa- voy, the queen's uncle, who dying without heirs, left it to that princess. It was soon afterwards granted to Robert de Tibetot, in consideration of his adherence to the king against his re- bellious barons, and was transmitted by him to his descendants, on the failure of whom, 46 Edward III, this estate belonged for some time, to the family of Despenser. About 1450, it became the property of Roger Wentworth, ancestor of Thomas Went- worth, who, in the reign of Henry VIII. was admitted to sit in parliament, as a peer, by virtue of his writ of summons. His son Thomas was governor of Calais, when that place was surprised and taken by the French, to the extreme mortification of Queen Mary, who caused him to be solemnly condemned of high treason, though unheard, and a prisoner in France. Though the repre- sentatives of this family had assumed the title of lords, it does not appear * Cough's Camden, II. 1:5. SUFFOLK. 223 appear lliatlhey were elevated to the dignity, till James I. in thd eighth year of his reign, created Thomas Wentworlli, Lord Went- worth, of Nettlestead, to which honour his successor added the earldom of Cleveland. By this nohleman, the estate of Nettlestead was sold to William Lodge, citizen of London ; and it has since passed through various hands. At Ori'TON, upon a chalk hill, once stood an ancient castle, which tradition ascribes to OfFa, king of Mercia, after he had slain Etheldred, King of the East Angles, and seized his domi- nions. From the same monarch, the village also is said to have de- rived its name. The castle is so conjpletely demolished, that not a vestige of it remains. The advowson of the church of Oftlon, and tliirty acres of land there, belonged to the prior and convent of Thetford, and were granted, 32 Henry VIIL as part of their possessions to Thomas, Duke of Norfolk. The learned and pious Dr. Andrews, Bishop of Ely, left 4000L to purchase an estate for the benefit of poor men and boys, clergy- men's widows and prisoners. The trustees in whom it was vested for the purpose, accordingly bought lands in this and the neighbour- ing parish of Elmsett, in the hundred of Cosford. Stonham is a name belonging in common to three villages in this hundred, distinguished by the additions of Aspal, Earl^ and Parva. Stonham Earl, is so called, because it was anciently the lordship of Thomas Brotherlon, Earl of Norfolk, and afterwards of William Ufford, who married his grand -daughter. In 1 Ed- ward in. the Duke of Norfolk had a grant of a market and fair here; and all the three parishes still form part of what is called that duke's liberty. In the parish of Stonham Aspal, thus called from the family of Aspale, or Haspele, is Broiighton Hall, the ancient scat of a branch of the Wingfields, to which a manor of the same name is attached. The last possessor, the Rev. John Wingfieid, died without issue in 1735, as died his brother Tho^ias, in 1762, who was the last heir male of the family. In the church-\ ard , is^ a beaut i- \ 224 SUFFOLK, beautiful monument, to the memory of Anthony Wingfield, Esq. His effigy in alabaster, much injured by time, is represented in a recumbent posture, grasping- a serpent. At Earl Stonham is Deerbolts, the ancient seat of the Driver family, v/hose only heir married the late Richard Moore, Esq. of Keutwell Hall, near Long Melford, and enjoyed this property as ber dower. Stonham Parva is sometimes called Stonham Jerningham, from the ancient family of Jerningham, who were lords here for many years. In this parish is the ofd mansion of the family of Bloom- field, now the property of Charles Bloomfield, Esq. THE HUNDRED OF SAMFORD. Tliis hundred is separated by the Stour from Essex on the south; on the west it borders on the hundreds of Babergh and Cos- ford ; on the east it is bounded by the Liberty of Ipswich, and the river Orwell, which divides it from the hundred of Colneis ; and on the north by Bosmeie and Claydon. The principal villages in this hundred are :— Arwerton, formerly the seat of the Bacons, a celebrated fa- mily, who, in 1345, procured the grant of a market and fair here. About 1577, the estate was purchased of ^ir Drue Drury, by Sir Philip Parker, Knt. whose descendant, of the same name, was in 1661, created a baronet. It is now the property of Charles Ber- ners, Esq. of Wol vers ton. Arwerton Hall, is situated on a point of land at the junction of the Orwell and Stour, commanding a fine view of those rivers. Neither the house nor offices are remarkable either for beauty or antiquity ; and Grose tells us, that when his drawing was made, they were so thoroughly in ruins, as to be iiTeparable. The gate of this mansion has attracted considerable notice, not for the beauty, but singularity of its form. From the whimsical taste of its construction, it was probably erected about the time of Elizabeth, or James I. a period when architecture seems to have 6 been SUFFOLK. 225 been at its lowest ebb ; the buildings of those days being neither Grecian nor Gothic, but an unnatural and discordant jumble of both. At DoDNEis, in the parish of Rentley, was a small priory of Black Canons, founded by one of the ancestors of the Dukes of Norfolk, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It was suppressed by the first bull of Clement VII. and granted to Cardinal Wolsey, when its revenues were valued at 421. 1 8s. 8|d. East Bergiiolt, is a considerable village, the church of which is united with the rectory of the contiguous parish of Brantham. It is said to have formerly been a flourishing place, from the cloth manufactures carried on there, and a market-town. The church, towards the erection of which various legacies were left early in the sixteenth century, is a good structure; and many parts of it are of very elegant workmanship ; but the build- ing of the steeple, towards which other legacies were given about the same time, has not yet been undertaken. The bells, five in number, are fixed in a shed in the church-yard. Southward of the church is a neat mansion, built by Thomas Chaplin, Esq. which, together with the manor and advowson, de- volved, by marriage, to the family of Hankey. The residences of the rector, the Rev. Dr. Rhudde, Peter Godfrey, Esq. Mrs. Ro- berts, and Golding Constable, Esq. give this place an appearance far superior to that of most villages. Freston, was anciently vested in a family who took their name from it, and to whom the estate belonged, till about the time of Henry VIII. when it devolved to the Latymers. The pre- sent proprietor is Charles Berners, Esq. of Woolverston. Not far from the bank of the Orwell stands Freston Tower, a strong quadrangular brick building, not more than about ten feet by twelve; with a polygonal turret at each angle. It is six stories high, and contains as many rooms one above another, com- municating by a winding staircase, which, on the exterior, forms the principal face of the edifice, having three sides, and "nume- rous windows. The best apartment appears to have been on the Vol. XIV. Q fifth 226 SUFFOLK. fifth story ; it is higher than any of the others, and was probably hung with tapestry, as the small nails yet left in the wood seem- to indicate. The top is formed by a number of open arches, and each of the small turrets, at the angles, terminates in a pinnacle. The windosvs are square ; and, except in the principal apartment, very small. In this building there is but one fire-place, which is on the ground-floor, and even that seems to be of recent con- struction, and to have no chimney; whence it is probable, that this place was rather an occasional pleasure-retreat, or watch- tower, than designed for the purpose of permanent habitation. Excepting a farm-house, at the distance of a few yards, no trace of any building appears near the Tower. " As there is among the records of the manor,*' says the Svffolk Traveller *, " a very exact and particular account of the manor-house, and all the out-buildings and offices to it, in Henry the Seventh's time, and no mention is there made of the Tower, it is pretty certain it was not then built ; so that it is reasonable to suppose it to have been the work of the Latymers. From the smallness of the win- dows in all the other rooms, it looks as if they were built chiefly for the support of the uppermost room, which, having large win- dows on three sides of it, seems to have been contrived by some whimsical man, for taking rather a better view of the river Orwell, than can be had on the neighbouring hill." HiNTLESHAM was, for a great length of time, the demesne of the Timperleys. In the chancel of the parish-church are seve- ral monuments of this family, and especially a tomb of blue mar- ble, on which is the portraiture in brass, of a man in complete ar- mour, and a woman with a hound at lier feet, and this inscription in Latin : Here lyetli the venerable man John Timperley, Esq. heir and Lord of Hyntleshain, and Margaret his wife, which John died Vn. 1400." HOLBROOK. This lordship was formerly the property of the famU3( * Second Edition, page 64. SVtTOLK. 227 family of Clenche ; and a judge belonging to it is interred in the church, with this inscription : In obitum Colendissimi Sviq. Temporis Antiquissimi J udicis Johannis Cleiiche qui obiit XIX. Die Augusti Anno Salvaturls 1607. Ecce jacet subter venerandus marmore judex Terram terra petit, puluere corpus inest Ast anima ad superos sanctiq. palatia cteli Ferturet aeterni viuit in arce Dei. In the same place is also interred Margery, wife of Thomas Clenche, Esq. eldest son of the judge, and daughter of John Bar-* ker, Esq. of Ipswich, who died in 1597. Stratford, near the southern limit of the county, on the road from Colchester to Ipswich, has a handsome church, on whose water-table is inlaid in capitals this inscription, most of it over- grown with moss: — " Praye for the soulis of Edward Mors, and Alys hys wyf. ultey rowlys anno domini 1430." About a quarter of a mile south-west of this place, on the bank of the Stour, is a camp, where some antiquarians fix the much disputed Roman station Ad Ansam. The opinions on this sub- ject are thus summed up by the late Mr. Gough, and his con- clusion seems to be perfectly satisfactory : Ad Ansam seems to be the most undetermined station of any in the county (Es- sex in which it was placed by various writers). Mr. Burton de- clines fixing it, and only tells us that Mr. Talbot in some copies set it at Catawade Bridge, where the Stour makes an island. One would think he had read it ad Insulam ; and thereabouts, or at Stratford, Dr. Stukeley places it, as does Richard of Cireiicester, changing its name to Ad Sturium amnem. Mr. Horsley, by the fifteen miles between Comhretonium and Ad Ansam, is induced to carry the last to Mersey island, wliere are great remains of the Q 2 Romans. 22S SiJFFOLK* Romans. Afterwards supposing the military wftys to have met at Colchester, and coincided for four or five miles, he carries it to Casterford, called iu Dr. Stukeley's map, Chester/ord and Canonium ; but unfortunately the Doctor mistook Easterford, or Kelvedon, for Casteribrd, else we had had a Roman station beyond controversy. Mr. Horsley, ih his table, page 443, makes the road take a course, perfectly answerable to his friend Ward's idea of a Anstty a curve: carrying it by Witham, Maldon, Fambridge, Chelmsford, Leiton, to London, which is in the form of an in- verted z. If we allow Camalodunum to be Colchester, Ad An- sam is to be sought for on the Suffolk edge of the county, and then Richard of Cirencester's Ad Sturium has the fairest claim, supposing Ansa to be another word for the flexure of that river." * In the parish of Tattingstone is the house of industry for the hundred of Samford, incorporated in 1765. The number of parishes is twenty-five ; and the sum originally borrowed wa» 82501. This edifice was erected in 1766, and the average number of poor annually admitted into it is 260. They are principally employed in spinning for Norwich. The rates were settled at 2s. 8d. in the pound annually, and remain the same. At Wherstead is Wherstead Lodge, the mansion of Sir Robert Harland, whose father, a distinguished naval officer, was created a baronet in 1771, by the title of Sir Robert Harland of Sproughton, where he had at that time a seat which has since been pulled down. In the same year he sailed as commander in chief of his majesty's fleet to the East Indies; in 1778, was second in command to Admiral Keppel; in 1782, he was appointed one of the lords of the admiralty; and died in 1784. WooLVERSTON Hall, in the parish of Woolverston, the ele- gant mansion of Charles Berners, Esq. stands in a most delight- ful situation, on the west bank of the Orwell. The house is built of Woolpit brick : the centre of the principal front adorned with a pediment, ' ♦ Cough's Camden, IT. 136. SUFFOLK. 229 A pediment, supported by four Ionic columns, is connected with the wings on each side by a colonnade. The bow front next the liver commands the most pleasing views of the water and the op- posite shore of Nacton, through the trees, which embellish the park. The interior of this edifice corresponds with its exterior. The apartments are fitted up with great taste ; they contain some good pictures, and the ceilings are beautifully painted. The stables, which are an ornamental building, stand detached from the house on the spot occupied by the old mansion. The present Hall was erected in 1776, by the late William Berners, Esq. proprietor of the stately street in London, called after his name. At some distance from the house, in the park, an interesting monument of filial affection presents a pleasing object, that is seen to a considerable distance, in passing up and down the river. This is a square obelisk of free-stone, ninety-six feet high, with an ascent in the interior to the top, which is surmounted by a globe, encircled with rays. The base is encompassed with iron railing. On one side of it is this inscription : In Memoriam Gvilielmi Berners, Armig : Patris optimi el bene merentis, hnnc obeliscum extruxit Carolus Berners 1793. On the contrary side, next to the river, is the follow ing : Guiielnaus Berners Natus Jul. 10. A. D. 1709. Denatus Scptemb. 18. 1783, Q3 Th( 230 SUFFOLK. The park at present contains about 400 acres, but with the ad- ditions intended to be made to it, will comprehend 900. It is well stocked witli beautiful spotted deer, and abounds with game of every kind, which the proprietor is particularly anxious to pre- serve. This estate, early in the last century, belonged to a Mr. Tyson, who became a bankrupt in 1720, when John Ward, Esq. of Hack- ney claimed it in right of a mortgage, which he had upon it. The matter was brought before the Court of Chancery, and for upwards of half a century the cause remained undecided. At length, about 1773, the property was ordered to be sold, and was purchased by the father of the present proprietor for 14,0001, THE LIBERTIES OF IPSWICH. The liberties of Ipswich include not only that town and its suburbs, but also the hamlcis of Stoke Hall, Brook's Hall, Wikes Ufford, and Wlkes Bis'r)p, forming a district more than four miles in extent from east to west, and about the same from north to south. They are bounded on the north by the hundred of Bosmere and Claydon ; on the west by the same hundred and Samford ; on the south by Samford and Colneis ; and on the east by Carlford. Besides these precincts on land, the borough of Ipswich has al- ways claimed as an appendage a jurisdiction over the whole ex- tent of the Orwell, from the town to a place called the Pollshead, upon the sand, known by the name of the Andrews, in the high sea, beyond the cliffs of Walton and Felixstow. The limits of these liberties and jurisdiction, both by land and water, have been more than once ascertained by commissions appointed for the purpose. Ipswich, generally considered as the capital of the county, is happily situated on the side of a hill, with a southern aspect, declining by an easy descent to the Orwell. The soil being sand. SCFFOLK. 231 sand, crag, or gravel, is extremely healthy. The hills, which rise above the town, to the north and cast, not only shelter it from bleak and inclement winds, but contain springs that furnish it with an inexhaustible supply of excellent water. To the latter circumstance it is probably owing that Jpswich has suf- fered much less from fire than most other towns. According to the enumeration of 1801, it comprehended 1934 houses, and 10,043 inhabitants, whose number had increased in 1811, to 13,459, exclusive of persons belonging to the army and navy. This town has five annual fairs, on May 4, and 18, July 25. August 22, and September 25, and gives the title of viscount to the Duke of Grafton. Ipswich derives its name from its situation at the place where the river Gippen, or Gipping, discharges itself into the Orwell. It is written in Domesday Gyppeswik, Gyppeswiz, Gyppewi- cuSy and Gyppewic, which mode of spelling was gradually changed into Yppyswyche and Ipswich. The town strictly speaking, that is, within the gates, was not of great extent. It was surrounded with a ditch and rampart, which was broken down by the Danes, when they pillaged the town twice in the space of ten years, in 991 and 1000. This fortification was af- terwards renewed and repaired, in the fifth year of King John. The town had formerly four gates, called from theii* situa- tion, after the four principal points of the compass; and from these gates were named the four leets or wards, into which the place was divided. We likewise read of a fifth, called the Lose-gate, which stood on the bank of the Orwell, at the spot where once was a ford through that river. Though the rampart has, in many places, been broken through, and in others en- tirely levelled, considerable remains of it still exist. These may easily be traced from the Bowling Green Garden, or Grey Friar's Walk, to St. Matthew's Street ; and from Bull-gate to Northgate Street, and thus to the end of Cross Keys Street, it is almost entire. From these remains it is apparent, that the whole of A\\e parishes of St. Austin, St. Clement, and St. Helen, with great Q4 part 232 SUFFOLK. part of those of St. Margaret and St. Matthew, were not included within the gates. Accordingly, in old writings, they were deno- minated the suburbs of Ipswich. Before, and for many years after, the Norman conquest, Ips- wich was in the same condition as all other boroughs that were in the demesne of the crown. For some time anterior to the Domesday survey, it appears to have been rapidly declining. " In the time of King Edward,'' (the Confessor) says that document there were 538 burgesses who paid custom to the king, and* they had forty acres of land. But now there are 110 burgesses who pay custom, and 100 poor burgesses, who can pay no more than one penny a head to the king's geld. Thus upon the whole they have forty acres of land, and 328 houses now empty, and which in the time of King Edward, scotted to the king's geld. Roger, the vice-earl, let the whole for 401. afterwards he could not have that rent, and abated sixty shillings of it, so that it now pays 371. and the earl always hath the third part." We are farther informed by the same ancient record, that during the reign of Edward the Confessor, his queen Edith, the daughter of Earl Goodwin, had two thirds of this borough, and Earl Guert, the sixth son of the same nobleman possessed the remain- ing third. The queen had a grange to which belonged four caru- cates of land, and the earl another, valued at one hundred shil- lings, besides the third penny of the borough. The first charter obtained by this town, was granted by King John in the first year of his reign, and conferred on the inhabitants im- portant privileges, some of which strikingly illustrate the oppres- sions under which the ra?.ss of the people must in those early ages have groaned. By this cliarter, the king granted to the burgesses, the borough of Ipswich with all its appurtenances, liberties, &c. to beheld of him and his heirs, by the payment of the usual annual farm of 351. and one hundred shillings more at the exchequefr He exempted them from the payment of ail taxes, under the de- liominations of tlioll, lestage, stallage, passage, pontage, and all aXkos, customs throughout his land and sea-ports, — a privilege 9 still SUFFOLK. 235 still enjoyed by such masters of ships as are free of this borough, in all the [)orts of the kingdom, the city of London not excepted. Tlie other privileges granted to the people of Ipswich by this charter were as follow:— That they should have a merchants* gild and hanse of their own— That no person should be quartered upon them without tlieir consent, or take any thing from them by force — That they might hold their lands, and recover their just dues from whomsoever they were owing— Tiiat they sliould hold their lands within the borough, according to the custom of the borough of Ipswich — That none of them should be fined or amerced but according 1o the laws of the free borough — That they might chuse two bailiffs, and four coroners out of the more lawful men* of the town. King Edward I. in the 13th year of his reign, for certain of- fences committed by the burgesses of Ipswich, but of what na- ture we are not informed, seized the borough into his own hands and kept it till his nineteenth year; when being pleased with the service performed by some ships from Ipswich in his expedition against Scotland, he re-granted the borough and its liberties to the burgesses, and confirmed tlie charters of his predecessors John and Henry III. by another dated at Berwick, June 23, 1291, but he punished the town sufficiently by raising the annual rent from 401. or sixty marks, to 601. as it has ever since continued. About the 18th of Edward III. the burgesses of Ipswich were a. second time deprived of their charter on the following occasion. At the assizes, which were held by a judge named Sharfortl, some sailors, whose attendance Avas necessary, thought that his lord- ship • This expression is supposed to signify the principal men of the town, and such as before the enfranchisement by tliC charter were in the condition near- est to tliat of a free and law ful man properly so called. It should be observed that persons in domUiio, or in dcmrane, had not the free benefit of the law ; for they received justice from their lords, and M ere judged by them in most cases. The children of such people could not be iheir heirs ; for they held their lands and goods at the will of llicir lord, and were not sure to enjoy them longer than he pleased. 234 SlihFFOLKv ship staid loo long at dinner. One of them in a frolic, took his seat upon the bench, and caused another to make proclamation, requiring William Sharford to come into court and save his fine; and as he did not appear directed him to be fined. The judge, who was a morose man, so highly resented the joke, that because the magistrates refused to apprehend the sailors, he prevailed upon the king to seize the liberties of the borough, the government of •which was accordingly committed to the sheriflf of Norfolk and Suffolk : but before the expiration of a year it appears to have been exercised by the bailiffs as usual. Next to the charter of King John, that granted by Henry VI. in his 24th year was most beneficial. By this instrument, he in- corporated the town by the style of the burgesses of Ipswich. He authorized them annually to elect two burgesses as bailiffs, at tlie accustomed time and place, to hold that office for one whole year. He granted to the bailifl^s, and four such other burgesses as tlie bailifl^s should appoint from among the twelve portmen, the office of justice of the peace within the town, together with all fines, forfeitures, and amercements arising from that office, and the assize of bread, wine, and ale. He appointed such one of tlie bailiffs, as should be chosen by the burgesses at the time of election, to be escheator, and expressly granted the admi- ralty and clerkship of th€ market, though the bailiflfs had always exercised these last offices by the custom of the town. Though no notice was taken of this charter of Henry VI. in that of Edward, his successor, yet the latter granted all the pri- vileges mentioned in it, with these alterations and additions : — He incorporated the town by the name of the bailifl^s, burgesses, and commonalty, of the town of Ipswich ; he confined the elec- tion of bailiffs expressly to the 8th of September, in the Guild- hall, to serve for one. year; and he expressly exempted the bur- gesises from serving on juries. The most interesting charter granted by succeeding monarchs, for the insurance of these privileges, was that of Charles II. who in his 17th year, confirmed the high steward, the twelve port- men, SUFFOLK. 235 men, and the twenty-four chief constables, the recorder, and town clerk for the time being by their names, and directed, that upon the death or removal of any of the portmen, or twenty-four, the vacancy should be filled up by the rest of those respective bodies. Though the burgesses, toward the conclusion of the same reign, surrendered their charter and received another, by which the number of chief constables was reduced to eighteen, yet, as neither the surrender was enrolled, nor any judgment en- tered upon record, the officers who had acted under the former charter resumed their functions, on the proclamation of James IL in October 1688; and from them the present portmen, and twen- ty-four men are regularly derived. The principal officers in the corporation at present are, two bai- liffs, a high steward, a recorder, twelve portmen, of whom four are justices of the peace, a town clerk, twenty-four chief consta- bles, two of whom are coroners, and the twelve senior head-bo- roughs, a treasurer, and two chamberlains to collect the revenues of the town. The corporation have also fifteen livery servants, consisting of five musicians, four Serjeants at mace, two beadles, a common crier, a water-bail iff^ a gaoler, and a bridewell-keeper. From the preceding particulars it will appear, that the privi- leges of the corporation of Ipsvvich are very extensive. The bailiffs pass fines and recoveries, hear and determine causes, botli criminal and civil, arising in the town, and even crown cases pre- ferably to any of his majesty's courts at Westminster. They ap- point the assize of bread, beer, &c. No freeman can be obliged to serve on juries out of the town, or bear any offices for the king, sherills for the county excepted. Neither are they com- pelled to pay any tolls or duties in any other ports of the king- dom, having established this point in a trial with the city of London, respecting duties demanded for the vessels of freemen in the river Thames. They are entitled to all waifs, eslrays, and goods cast on shore within their aJniiralty jurisdiction, which ex- tends down the river, along the coast of Essex beyond Harwich one way, and beyond Languard Fort on the other. By the solemn decision 236 SUFFOLK. decision in their favour, of an inquisition taken in 14 Ed» ward III. at Ipswich, they had confirmed to them the contested right of taking custom-duties for goods entering the port of Har- wich, which was determined to belong solely to the bailiffs and burgesses of this town. Ipswich has sent two members to parliament since the 25th year of Henry VI. The right of election is in the bailiffs, portmen, common councilmen, and freemen at large, not receiving alms. The number of voters is between six and seven hundred, and the returning officers are the two bailiffs.* The • The court books of this borough preserve the following curious menioran-> iams, respecting the wagts paid at different periods to its representatives ; 1448. John Smith, and William Wethereld, 5 marcs each. i460. William Worsop, and John River, l3d. per day each. 1462. William Worsop, and John Lopham ; the former to have 20d. a day at York ; at any nearer place Ifid., at London 12d. ; and Lopharo, 1 2d. a day every where. 1 169. John Tiniperley, junr. and John Alfray, of Hendley ; Timperley, at 8d. a day. Alfray served in consideration of his being made a free burgess. 147 2- William Worsop, and John Wallworth ; Worsop at 5s. a week, and if parliament be adjourned, to have Is. per day ; Wallworth, 3s. 4d. per week. 1177. James Hobart, and John Timperley, at 26s. 8d. or two marcs each. 1483. Thomas Baldry, and John Wallworth j Baldry at 2s. a day; Wall- worth at Is. 1494. John Fastolf, and Ed. Bocking at 11. 6s. 8d. each, if at Westminster j if further olf, to be ordered hy the Great Court. HB. The Great Court ordered to Fastolf, 41 ; to Bocking, 31. J509. William Spencer, and Thomas Hall. Spencer to have 40s. N.B. He had 6s. 8d. more. 15!)9. Thomas Seckford, junr. Esq. and Robert Barker. Barker had 311. 4s. 1.592. Robert Barker, and Zach. Lock, Esq. Lock, 51. 1620. Robert Snelling, William Cage, Gent. 501. each. 1610. JohnGurdon, William Cage, Esq. N.B. 18 Car. 1. (1642.) Cage had SUFFOLK. 237 The streets of Ipswich are well paved, but, like those of most ancient towns whicli have not suffered by fire, are rather nar- row and irregular ; and consequently do not make such a striking- appearance as if they ran in right lines. It has also been re- marked that Ipswich wliolly escaped the calamities to which many otiier places were subject ^during the civil dissensions which con- vulsed the kingdom about the middle of the seventeenth century. At the corners of many of the streets are yet to be seen the re- mains of curious carved images, and great numbers of the houses jtre adorned, some of them to profusion, in a similar manner. The town contains many good buildings, and an advantage which it possesses in a high degree is, that most of these, even in the lieart of the place, have convenient gardens adjoining, which render them not only more agreeable, but the town itself more airy and salu- brious. In Domesday Book the following churches are mentioned as standing in Ipswich and its liberties, in the time of William the Conqueror: — the Holy Trinity, St. Austin, St. Michael, St. Mary, St. Botolph, (or Whitton church) St. Laurence, St. Pe- ter, St. Stephen, and Thurlweston. Of these the three former are demolished and not rebuilt. They were probably destroyed by the tempest recorded by Stowe, who informs us in his Annals, that on the night of New Year's Day 1287, as well through the vehemence of the wind as the violence of the sea, many churches were overthrown and destroyed, not only at Yarmouth, Dunwich, and Ipswich, but also in divers other places in England. At a later period this town is said to have contained twenty one parish churches. At present there are but twelve : St, demerit, St. Helen, St. Laurence, St. Margaret, St. Mary at Elms, St. Mary at Kay, St. Mary at Stoke, St. Mary at Tower, St. Matthew, liad 1 001. and Dec. 5. 1643, Gurdou had lOOl. and Cage -rOl. more, besides the lOOl. formerly gianlcd. 1680, John Wright, Gilbert Linfield ; 601. was ordered Car Wright, 201. for Linfield, 23S SUFFOLK. St. Matthew, St. Nicholas, St. Peter, and St. Stephen ; but in addition to these, the liberty of the borough contains the churdies of Tbuilweston, Whitton, and Westerfield. St. C e merit's church, was early and wholly impropriated to the priory of St. Peter, without any vicarage being created ; and for this reason, when the last estimate was made, it was not valued in the king's books. In 7 Edward VI. this impropriation was granted to William Webb, and William Breton, but this church is now consolidated with St. Helen's. In St. Clement's church is interred Thomas Eldred,* who ac- companied Cavendish in his circumnavigation of the globe, with this inscription : He that travels ye world about, Seeth God's wonders, and God's works, Thomas Eldred traveled ye world about j And went out of Pliraouth ye 2d of July 1586. and arrived in Plimouth again the 9th of Septeiiiber 1588. In this parish is the hamlet of Wykes, given by King Rich- ard to John Oxenford, bishop of Norwich,f and for which the town * In April 1802, Craven Ord, Esq. exhibited to the x^ntiquarian Society, three curious old paintings from Olivers, the seat of the Eldred family, in Essex, the first of which represented a terrestrial globe, marked with the equinoctial, tropics of Capricorn and Cancer, America, &c. with the following inscription: «* Thomas Eldred went out of Plimmouthe 1586, July 2d and sailed about the whole globe, and arrived againe in Plimmouthe the 9 of September 1588. What can seeme great to him that hath scene the whole world, and the wondrous works therein, save the Mnker of it, and the world above?" ~ Granger, in his Biographical History, (vol. I. p. 248.) speaking of Caven- dish the circumnavigator, observe^ in a note, " Dr. Ducarel has a curious drawing, b^' Vertue, from an original painting of Cap. Thomas Eldred, who sailed round the globe in the sixteenth century. t At an earlier period Dean of Sarum; author of an History of England down to his own time, and one of the founders of Trinity Priory, Ipswich, SUFFOLK. 239 town was allowed to deduct from the fee-farm rent the sum of 101. per annum, which it had been accustomed to pay to that prelate. The hamlet and manor, which from this circumstance received the appellation of Wykes Bishop, belonged to the bishops of Nor- wich, till in 1535, it was given by act of parliament to Henry VIII. who granted it in 15J5 to Sir John Jerniie, Knt. Whilst in tlie possession of the bishops, they used frequently to reside at their house, situated on the south side of the road leading from Bishops' Hill towards Naclon, where is now a square field with a brick-kiln, which appears to have been formerly surrounded with a moat. Tlie church of Wykes is sometimes mentioned in old writings, but it is not known where it stood, and it might possi- bly be no more than a chapel for the use of the bishop and his family. In this parish is also comprehended part of the hamlet of Wykea XJfford, so called from the Earls of Suffolk of that name, to whom it was anciently granted. The Willoughbys afterwards possessed it by descent from Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk. In the time of Queen Elizabeth it was held by Sir John Brewes, then by Sir Edmund Withipol, and has ever since gone with the Christchurch estate, being now vested in the Rev. Dr. Fonne- reau. Beyond 'St. Clement's-street, and between the two hamlets, stood St. James's Chapel, now wholly demolished. It is probable that it belonged to St. James's hospital, between which and the leprous house of St. Mary Magdalen, some connexion is conjec- tured to have existed. The latter is said to have stood somewhere opposite to St. Helen's church, and when it was dissolved, its revenues were annexed 9 Henry VIII. to the rectory of St. He- len's, and with them probably those of St. James's hospital ; for tlie incumbent of that parish was entitled to some portion of the tithes arising from the lands in tlie hamlet of Wykes Bishop ; and for this portion a composition was constantly paid by the rector of St. Clement before the consolidation of the two churches. St. Helen* although formerly impropriated to the hospital of St. James or St. Mary Magdalen, has been instituted into a rec- tory 240 StJFFOLK. tory ever since the Reformation. In a field almost opposite to Caldwell Hall, now called Cold Hall, on the south of the road leading to Kesgrave, stood the church of St. John Baptist, in Caldwell, of which there are no remains. It was impropriated to Trinity priory, and granted with that house to Sir Thomas Pope. In this parish also, at the south-west corner of Rosemary-lane, Brook-street, was formerly a chapel dedicated to St. Edmund a Pountney,**^ and impropriated to St. Peter's priory ; but heing^ like St. Helen's, in the patronage of the Bishop of Norwich, they ■were both given to the same incumbent till they were united. St. Lawrence is said in Domesday, to have possessed twelve acres of land. This church was given to Trinity priory, to which it was impropriated ; but as there had for many years been no praedial tithes belonging to it, there was no grant of the impro- priation at the dissolution. The present edifice was begun by John Bottold, who died in 1431, and was interred here, with this in- scription, which, as Weaver informs us,t was discovered on re- moving a pew in this church : Subjacet hoc lapide John Bultold vir probus ipse, Istias ecclesiai primus inceptor I'uit iste, Cujus animae, Domine, irjiserere tu bone Christe. Obiit MCCCCXXXI. Litera Dominicalis G. The chancel was built by John Baldv/yn, draper, who died in 1449, and his name is in the stone- work under the east window, now plastered over. About that time several legacies were left towards the erection of the steeple. In 1514, Edward Baundy, then one of the representatives of this borough in parliament, founded a chauntry in this church, for a secular priest to officiate at tlse altar of St. Thomas, in behalf of * This Saint Edmund was Arclibi&hop of Canterbury, and being weary of the Pope's exactions in Englr.nd, became a voluntary exile, and died in 1240, with the reputation of a saint, at Pontiniac in France, from which place the addition to his name was a corrupt derivation. t P. 750. SUFFOIK. 241 of himself and liis relations, among whom he reckoned Thomain Wolsey, then Dean of Lincoln, and his parents, Robert and Jane Wolsey, deceased. To this priest and his successors he gave his house in this parish for his residence ; and his lands in Sprough- ton. Stoke, and Alnesborne, for a maintenance. This Mr. Daun- dy was one of the most respectable men of the town in his time ; all his daughters married gentlemen of good fortune: and the wife of lord-keeper Bacon was the issue of one of them. The Rev. Richard Canning, M. A. a gentleman of distinguished character and abilities, editor of the second edition of KirW's Suf- folk Traveller, and compiler of the account of the Ipswich cha- rities, was forty years minister of the church of St. Laurence, and died June 9, 1775. St. Margaret's was impropriated to the priory of the Holy Trinity. Trinity church, after which this house is supposed to have been named, stood near St. Margaret's church-yard, and is mentioned in Domesday as being endowed with twenty-six acres of land in the time of the Conqueror. The priory was founded, and chiefly endowed before the year 1177, by Norman Gastrode, for Black Canons of the order of St. Austin, and the founder be- came one of its first inhabitants. King Henry II. granted the prior and convent a fair on Holyrood Day, September 14, to con- tinue three days. Not long after the foundation of the monastery, the church and offices were consumed by fire ; but they were re- built by John of Oxford, bishop of Norwich, on which Richard I. gave the patronage of the priory to him and his successors. The grant of the fair was afterwards confirmed by king John, who moreover granted to the priory all the lands and rents " formerly be- longing" to the churches of St. Michael and St. Saviour in Ipswich. From this expression it may be inferred, that both these churches were even then dilapidated : at present their site is unknown ; but a vagne tradition reports that the latter stood behind St. Mary Elms; and that the former, which is said in Domesday to have possessed eight acres of land, was sitiiated near the church of St. Nicholas. At the suppression 26 Henry VIII. the possessions of Vol. XIV. R Trinity 242 SUFFOLK. Trinity priory were valued at 881. 6s. 9d. per [annum, and in the 36th year of the same reign were granted to Sir Thomas Pope. The strong foundation of the steeple of Trinity church was, about fifty years ago, undermined and blown up with gunpowder. St. Margaret'* is not mentioned in Domesday, whence it is na- tural to infer that it was not then in existence ; but as the church of the Holy Trinity was appropriated to the use of the prior and convent, this edifice was most probably erected for the parish- ioners. The principal porch has two handsome carved niches in front. It is ornamented on the west side by the head of a monk, from whose mouth the water-spout descends ; and on the east side that of a nun answers the same purpose. They are far superior in execution to the carving generally seen in such situations. From the journal of William Dowsing, the principal of the par- liamentary visitors appointed in 1643 to inspect and deface the churches of this county, it appears that at St. Margaret's they took down the twelve apostles in stone, and ordered between twenty and thirty pictures to be destroyed. In this parish, on the site of Trinity priory, a spacious brick mansion, called Christ Church, was erected, and surrounded with a pale, by Sir Edmund Withipol, whose only child was married to Leicester, Lord Viscount Hereford. His successor sold the estate to Claude Fonnereau, Esq. in whose descendant, the Rev, Dr. Fonnereau it, is at present vested. That gentleman, with a liberality not very common, allows free access to tliis park, which is a most agreeable promenade, to the inhabitants of the town. Here is still to be seen a bowling-green, which was formerly a necessary appendage to a gentleman's mansion. The surface of the park, though not of great extent, is pleasingly diversified. It is stocked with Some of the most beautiful deer in the kingdom, of a fine white colour, spotted with black, which still farther con- tribute to llie variety of the scene. St. Mary at Elms, is one of the four churches dedicated to that saint now standing in Ipswich, though in Domesday book only one is mentioned, which is conjectured to be St. Mary at Tower . SUFFOLK. S43 Tower. St. Mary at Elms probably succeeded the dilapidated church of St. Saviour, and is thought to have been built on tho site of that edifice. It was given to Trinity priory by Alan, the son of Edgar Aleto, and his son, Richard ; but there seems to have been no grant of the impropriation since the dissolution of that monastery. Opposite to the church of St. Mary at Elms is an alms-house for twelve poor women, erected about fifty years ago, in pursu- ance of the will of Mrs. Ann Smyth, who left 50001. for this cha- ritable purpose. St. Mary at Kay was impropriated to the priory of St. Peter : and all the tithes belonging to it were granted, 7 Edward VI. to Webb and Breton. The church must have been built since 1448^ when Richard Gowty was a considerable benefactor to it ; for by his will made in that year, he ordered his body to be interred in the church -yard of St. Mary at the Kay ; and gave Calyon stone for the whole new church, which was to be erected in that church- yard. In this parish, northward of the church, was a house of Black Friars, Dominicans, commonly called Preachers, who settled here in the latter end of the reign of Henry III. The extensive site of this convent was granted, 33 Henry VIII. to William Sabyn, but afterwards purchased by the corporation, with the design of founding in it a hospital for the relief and maintenance of aged persons and children, for the curing of the sick poor, and for the employment of the vicious and idle. It was confirmed to them by charter in 1572, by the appellation of Christ's Hospital, and was at first supported by annual subscriptions ; but afterwards the corporation made an order, that every freeman, on being admitted to his freedom, should pay a certain sum towards its support. Part of this edifice is now occupied as a hospital for poor boys, in which they are maintained, clothed, and educated. Their num- ber in 1689, as Kirby informs us,* was only twelve ; but about the middle of last century there were sometimes double that num- R 2 bee, * Hist Acc. of Twelve PrintJ, p, 8, 244 SUFFOLK. her, in consequence of a donation of 601. per annum left by the will of Nicholas Philips, Esq. a poitman of this town, " towards the learning and teaching poor children, providing books, ink, paper, and convenient apparel, binding them out apprentices, and for the providing of flax, hemp, wool, or such other need- ful things, as well for the setting such poor children to work as for the help of them ; and also for the providing bedding conve- nient and necessary for such children, and also a convenient house for such children to be taught in.'* Before this gift there does not appear to have been any regular school here, so that Mr. Philips may be considered as its founder. Several legacies have been left to it since his donation, particularly one of 2401. in 1745, by his daughter, the relict of Sir Robert Kemp, Bart. The number of boys now maintained here is not more than twelve, and they are chiefly employed in spinning wool, till they are old enough to be bound apprentices. Another portion of tlie monastery was still within these few years used as a Hall, in which the Quarter Sessions for the Ips- wich division were held ; and a Bridewell for oflfenders within the limits of the corporation. Here is also a spacious room, now the town library, the keys of which are kept by the bailiffs and the master of the grammar-school, and out of which every freeman has a right to take any of the books on giving a proper receipt. The cloisters are still standing entire : and in the spacious refec- tory on the south side is now held the Free Grammar School, It was not kept here till the time of James I. though the town had a grammar-school as early as 1477, when it was under the direc- tion of the Bishop of Norwich. In 1482, Richard Felaw, who had been eight times bailiflT, and twice member of parliament for Ipswich, gave the produce of some lands and houses to this insti- tution, and also a house for the master's residence; but these possessions wer« alienated, 20 Henry VIII. at the request of Cardinal Wolsey, and given to his new college in this town. His ahort-lived institution was evidently the cause of the charter af- ttrwoids granted by King Henry for the present foundation. This 6 charter SUFFOLK. cliarter was renewed and confirmed by Queen Elizabeth, wlio au- thorised the corporation to deduct annually from tlie fee-farm payable by tliis borough, the sum of 241. 6s. 8d. for the master's salary, and 141. 6s. 8d. for that of the usher, to which some ad- ditions have since been made. The nomination of both is vested, in the corporation, which is empowered to make such rules as it may think fit for the regulation and government of the school. In 1598, Mr. William Smart, one of the portmen of Ipswich, conveyed a farm at Wiverstone, tlien of the clear yearly value of 191. to Pembroke Hall, Cambridge, for the maintenance of one fellow and two scholars from this school, who are to be called after his name. In 1601, Mr. Ralph Scrivener, who married Mr. Smart's widow, at her request settled on the same college an annuity of 211. for the erection of four new scholarships, to be filled out of the free-grammar school at Ipswich. Another considerable part of the buildings once belonging to the monastery of the Black Friars, is now occupied by the poor on Tooley's foundation. This benevolent institution, established in 1551 by Mr. Heni-y Tooley, a portman of Ipswich, and confirmed by a charter of Philip and Mary, was originally intended for the relief of ten poor persons only, who were unfeigaedly lame by reason of the king's wars, or otherwise, or such as could not pro- cure a subsistence- The donor directed, that in case the estate should prove adequate to the maintenance of a greater number of persons, the bailiffs or wardens should be authorised to procure houses for the reception of more, in proportion to the yearly income, but not exceeding fifty. This part of his will has not always been punctually observed, near eighty persons having re- ceived benefit from this charity at one time ; but the inconveni- ence thence arising has since been redressed by the diminution of the number permitted to partake of it. Shortly before Mr. Too- ley's death, the annual income of the estate was no more than one hundred marks : but Kirby informs us,* that it was between three and four hundred pounds per annum in the middle of last R 3 century • Hist. Acc. of Twelve Prints, p. 11. 246 SUFFOLK. century, since which time its value must have heen materially augmented. On the quay, which horders the Orwell, stands the Custom^ House of this port, a commodious hrick building, in an unfre- quented apartment contiguous to which is still preserved the ducking-stool, a venerable relic of ancient customs. In the cham- berlain's book are various entries of money paid to porters for taking down the dookeing stole, and assisting in the operation for cooling, by its means, the inflammable passions of some of the female inhabitants of Ipswich, A malt-kiln on the quay, formerly known by the name of the Angel,''was, in ancient times, a house of Cistertian monks. From the remains it appears to have been about 81 feet by 21. St. Mary at Stoke was given, as we are informed in the Domesday survey, by King Edgar to the prior and convent of Ely. This grant, made about 970, was executed with great Solemnity, as appears from the words of the deed itself; Ego Eadgarus, &c. Basilevs — non clam in angulo, sed palam, sub dio subscripsi ; and it was attested by his queen, St. Dunstan, Archbishop of Canterbury, and many of the principal officers and nobles. The gift included the hamlet, which takes in part of the parish of Sproughton, together with the advowson of the rectory and the manor of Stoke Hall, or, as it is at present called. Stoke Park. It is now vested in the dean and chapter of Ely. In this parish is the manor of Godlesford, now denominated Gusford Hall, which, with its appurtenances in Godlesford, Belsted Parva and Wherstead, was granted, 32 Henry VIII. to Sir John Ravensworth, as parcel of the possessions of the priory of Canon's Leigh, Devonshire. In a perambulation in 26 Edward III. this house is described as belonging to Robert Andrews, whose family seems to have been long settled here ; for in 13 Henry VIII. it is denominated " the gate some-time of old Robert Andrews, now of Sir Andrews Windsor," who took his Christian name from that family, and was afterwards created Lord Windsor. SUFFOLK. 247 In Stoke parish was formerly a^miraculous rood near the place, wliich from this circumstance received the name of Golden Rood Lane. St. Mary at Tower was given by Norman, the son of Ead- noth, to Trinity priory. The tower of this church was formerly adorned with a handsome spire ; and Mr. William Edgar, of Ips- wich, left by will 2001. towards erecting another ; but owing tp some misunderstanding among the persons entrusted with the management of this business, the money was thrown into chan- cery, and the object of the testator was never carried into exe- cution. In this church the confraternity of Corpus Christi Gild, insti- tuted about 1325, used to deposit the tabernacle in which the host was earned, and in which their money and other valuables were kept. It has been suggested,* that a hollow place in the north wall of the vestry, guarded by a door of extraordinary 4Btrength, now removed, might have been made for the reception of this tabernacle. In Upper Brook-street in tliis parish, is the house of the Arch- deacon of Suffolk, sometimes called the Archdeacon's Place, or Palace. The original edifice, of which the outer wall and gates seem to have formed a part, was erected in 1471] by William Pykenham, Archdeacon of Suffolk, and principal official, or Chancellor of Norwich, the initials of whose name are still upon the gate-way. St. Matthew's has always been termed a rectory, and the in- cumbent is instituted into it as such ; but the great tithes, for- merly impropriated to St. Peter's priory, were granted, 7 Ed- ward VI. to Webb and Breton, and now belong to the family of Fonnereau. The crown did not obtain the advowson by the disso- lution of tlie priory, having always presented anterior to that event. This parish once contained four churches or chapeU, long since demolished or disused: these were. All Saints, St. George's, R4 St. • Suffolh Traveller, 2d edit. p. 42. 24S SUFFOLK. St. Mildred's/and St. Mary's. The site of All Saints cannot now be ascertained ; but so much is known, that it was consolidated with St. Matthew's before 1383, when Thomas Moonie was insti- tuted into that church with the chapel of All Saints annexed. St. George's Chapel was used for divine service so late as the middle of the sixteenth century, when Mr. Bilney, who suffered martyrdom, was there apprehended as he was preaching in favor of the Reformation. Considerable remains of this edifice are y et left, but it is now converted into a barn. Northward of St. George's chapel stood Ipswich castle, on the hills which still re- tain the name of Castle Hills, though the fortress was entirely demolished by Henry II. in 1176, after the defection of Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk. St. Mildred's church, once parochial and impropriated to St. Peter's priory, is one of the most ancient buildings in Ipswich. Part of it has been converted into a Town- Hall, under which are * three rooms now used as warehouses. Contiguous to the hall is a spacious council-chamber, below which were the kitchens formerly used at the feasts of the merchant's and other guilds, now occupied as workshops, and supposed to have been rebuilt, or thoroughly repaired, on the restoration of Charles II. We are informed by Grose,* that some years ago a piece of the plastering in the mid- dle of the front of this edifice near the top fell down, and discovered a stone, on which were quartered the arms of England and France, much defaced by time . A board oi the same shape, with a paint- ing of the arms, was put over it at the private expence of one of the portmen. The writer just quoted says, that the brick building at the end of the hall, in the upper part of which the records of the corporation are kept, appears to have been erected about the year 1449. The prior and convent of the Holy Trinity in 1393, granted to the burgesses of Ipswich a piece of ground in the pa- rish of St. Mildred, 24 feet long, and 18 wide, the north end abutting on the Cornhill. On this ground, as w e are told, the present * j^ntiq.wiii. ne. 24§ present edifice was erected ; and there is an order made at a g^reat court, 26 Henry VI. tliat all the profits of escheator and justice of the peace should be applied towards the expense of the buildin*^ at the end of the hall of pleas. If this information he correct, the structure in question must be one of the oldest brick buildings in the kingdom, as the date assigned to^ its erection is earlier by some years than the period usually considered as the a?ra of the introduction of that material. St. Mary's Chapel, commonly called our Lady of Grace, is said to have stood at the north-west corner of the lane without the west-gate, which to this day goes by the name of Lady-Lane, opposite to the George Inn. This chapel was very famous for an image of the Blessed Virgin, which, in Catholic times, had nu- merous visitors, and to which, in old wills, many pilgrimages were ordered to be made. In the third part of the homily against " peril of idolatry, this image is mentioned, together with our Lady of Walsingham, and our Lady of Wilsdon, by the style of Our Lady of Ipswich. It was to this chapel that Cardinal Wolsey ordered a yearly procession to be made by the dean of his college on September the 8th, heing the Catholic festival of the nativity of the Virgin Mary, tbe titular saint of Ipswich. This venerated image, however, shared tlie fate of otlier relics of superstition of the same kind, being conveyed to London, and there publicly burned. The site of the chapel is now covered with buildings. The alms-houses in Lady-lane were erected by Mr. Daundy, "who by his will, bearing date 1515, gave wood to each of his alms-houses " beside our Lady of Grace.^' The lands assigned by the founder for the support of these houses, were probably ap- plied at the Reformation to other uses ; for, though the buildings remain, their income is lost. In St. Matthew*s church-yard, beneath an altar monument, lie the remains of the late Lord Chedworth. with the followins: in- /f^ription : THE 250 SUFFOLK, THE RIGHT HONOURABLE JOHN (HOWE) LORD CHEDWORTH, BARON OF CHEDWORTH IN THE COUNTY OF GLOUCESTER, WAS BORN AUGUST 22, 1754 — DIED OCTOBER 29, 1804. HE SUCCEEDED HIS UNCLE FREDERIC-HENRY OCTOBER 6, 1781 ; AND DYING A BACHELOR, THE TITLE BECAME EXTINCT. HE WAS A NOBLEMAN OF SUPERIOR ABILITIES, WELL VERSED IN EVERY BRANCH OF ELEGANT AND POLITE LITERATURE ; AN ABLE, ACTIVE, AND UPRIGHT MAGISTRATE ; INTIMATELY ACQUAINTED WITH THE LAWS AND CONSTITUTION OF HIS COUNTRY ; A STRENUOUS SUPPORTER OF CIVIL AND RELIGIOUS LIBERTY; yiRMLY ATTACHED TO THE PRINCIPLES ESTABLISHED AT THE REVOLUTION ; AND A SINCERE BELIEVER IN THE TRUTHS OF CHRISTIANITY. His lordship's grandfather, John Howe, Esq. was elevated to the peerage in 1741, The eldest son of this gentleman married a Suffolk lady, the daughter of Sir P. P. Long, Bart, and dying, as well as his next brother, without children, the title devolved to the issue of the third son, the Rev. Mr. Howe, by the daughter of Thomas White, Esq. of Tattingstone Place, near Ipswich. This lady, after the death of her husband, fixed her residence at Ips- wich, and thus laid the foundation of her son's partiality to this town. He was designed for the profession of the law, which he relinquished on his accession to the title, by the decease of his uncle in 1781. For many years he officiated as a magistrate, and as chairman of the quarter-sessions held at Ipswich, in which cajTacities he displayed great legal information and judgment. His strong predilection for the drama led to that acquaintance with the performers on the Ipswich stage, from which many of them derived by his will no inconsiderable advantage. His kid^hip died unmarried, and was buried, by his express desire. SUFFOLK, 251 in the same vault in which his mother had been interred His large property he bequeathed, with the exception of a very trifling sum, to persons not at all related to him. The total amount of the legacies left by his will was 183,0501. This testa- mentary disposition of his fortune, though opposed by his rela- tives on the plea of insanity, was afterwards established by the legal tribunal to which it was referred.* The church of a^^. Nicholas was impropriated to St. Peter** priory, on the dissolution of which the impropriation was granted to Webb and Breton. It is not mentioned in Domesday, and might probably have been erected to supply the place of the dilapidated church of St. Michael, which is said in that record to have had eight acres of land, and is conjectured to have stood not far from the spot occupied by this edifice. It has even been sug- gested that it was built upon the same site, and with some of the old materials ; a supposition that receives some colour of proba- bility from a stone at the west end of the south aisle, on which is a rude representation of St. Michael encountering the dragon. Of a neighboring stone, exhibiting the figure of a boar, it would be very difficult to give any satisfactory account ; an inscription, almost obliterated above the animal, is thought to have been — In Dedicatione Ecclesie Omnium Sanctorum, Here the parlia^ mentary visitors in 1648 broke down six pictures, and took up three brass inscriptions. In this parish, on the south side of the passage leading fronx St. Nicholas'-street to the church-yard, stands the house in which tradition reports that Cardinal Wolsey was born. The front ha« been rebuilt, but the back and out-houses, says Mr. Gough, have marks of antiquity. The Cardinal's father, in his will, bequeathed 6s. 8d. to the high altar of St. Nicholas, and forty shillings to the painting of the archangel there. Westward of the church of St. Nich )lc:s, and on the bank of the Gipping, stood a convent of Franciscan Grey Friars Minors, founded * His estates in Gloucestershire were brought to the hammer in 1811, and disposed of for the sum of 268,6f?r5l. SUFFOLK. founded in the reign of Edward I. by Lord Tiblotli, of Nettle- stead, who, with many of his family, was buried in the ch«rch Jjelongihg to this liouse. A small portion of this edifice, contain- ing some of the lower range of windows, and part of the exterior wall, are yet to be seen in a gardener's ground which now occu- pies its site. Another convent of White Friars Carmelites stood partly in this parish, and partly in that of St. Lawrence. It was founded about the year 1279, by Sir Thomas Loudham, and other bene- factors ; and at the dissolution was gTanted to John Eger. It -was of considerable extent, reaching from St. Nicholas'-street to St. Stephen*s-lane. Part of it was standing in the early part of the last century, and served as a gaol for the county before the latter agreed with the corporation for the common use of their gaol by the west-gate.* Of this house, which produced many persons eminent for their learning, no remains are now lefL St. Peter^s had, as appears from Domesday book, large pos- sessions in the time of Edward the Confessor. It was afterwards impropriated to the priory of St. Peter and St. Paul, which stood contiguous to the church -yard, and was founded in the reign of Henry II. by Thomas Lacy, and Alice, his wife, for Black Ca- nons of the order of St. Augustine. This house was suppressed in 1527, by Cardinal Wolsey, who, willing to bestow some marks of regard on the place of his nativity, as well as desirous of erecting there a lasting monument of his greatness, resolved to build and endow a college and grammar-school, to serve as a nursery for his new college at Oxford. For this purpose, being then in the meridian of his prosperity, he obtained bulls from the Pope • St. Matthew's, or the West-gate, of which Grose has given a view in his Antiquities, (V. 72,) now demolished, served, while standing, for a gaol. It was erected on the site ot an older gate in the time of Henry VI. at the voluntary expence of John de Caldwell, bailiff and portraan. The lower part, to the height of fiitcen feet, is described as having been of stone, and he upper of brick, so that it was one of the earliest buildings erected wilh that ranlerial. SUFFOLK. Pope for the suppression, and letters patent from the king for the site and estate of the priory of St. Peter and St. Paul, where, in the 20lh Henry VIII. he founded a college, dedicated to the ho- nor of the Blessed Virgin, consisting of a dean, twelve secular canons, eight clerks, and eight choristers, together with a gram- mar-school : and for its farther endowment he procured part of the possessions of the late monasteries of Snape, Dodnash, Wike, Harkesley, Tiptree, Romborough, Felixtow, Bromehill, Blyth- burgh, and Montjoy. The first stone was laid with great solem- nity by the Bishop of Lincoln, on which occasion a grand proces- sion was made through the town from the college to the church of Our Lady. But this noble foundation was scarcely completed before the disgrace of the Cardinal, when, in 23 Henry VIII. this building, with its sjte, containing by estimation six acres, was granted to Thomas Alverde ; and in 9 James I. to Richard Per- •ival and Edmund Duffield. No part of this college now remains except the gate, which stands adjoining to the east side of St. Peter's church-yard, the rest having been long demolished to the very foundations. In the second edition of Kirhy's Suffolk Traveller, published in 1764, we are informed that the first stone was not long before found in two pieces, worked up in a common wall in Woulform's- lane, with a Latin inscription* to this effect : " In the year of Christ * It is «f ident that this inscription, as given by Gough, is incorrectly co- pied. An. c t ti m DXXVIIl et regni Henrici, Octavi regis \ Anglise XX mensis vero Junii XV, posit uta p Johnro epru Liuera, He adds, that the stone containing it i* now fixed in a nialt-housCj for- nieriy a room of the college. 554 STJFFOLK. Christ 1528, and the 20th of Henry VIII. king of England, on the 15th of June, laid by John bishop of Lincoln/' This was John Longland, who likewise laid the first stone of Wolsey's col- lege at Oxford. This gate, with the exception of a square stone tablet, on which are carved the arms of King Henry VIII. is entirely of brick, worked into niches, wreathed pinnacles and chimnies, flowers, and other decorations, according to the fashion of that time. It is supposed to have been the great or chief gate ; for as tlie Car- dinal, by setting the king's arms over a college of his own foun- dation, meant to flatter that monarch, it is not probable that he would put them over any other than the principal entrance.* If this conjecture be correct, the specimen but ill agrees with the character given of the college by the writer of Wolsey's secret history, who says, that it was a sumptuous building : and indeed the cardinal himself, in an exhortatory Latin preface to Lilly's Grammar, then lately published, styles it " no ways inelegant.'* This is the more remarkable, as at that period architects were extremely attentive to^ and expended great sums in the construc- tion of gate-houses, which they generally made superior in mag- nificence to the other parts of the edifice ; and this was particu- larly observable in all the buildings erected by this ostentatious prelate. t This gate now leads to a private house, in the apart- ments of which are some coats of arms. " At « From what Fuller says on the subject, it is evident that Wolsey was guilty of a great breach of decorum in regard to the placing of these arms, " King Henry," says that writer, '' took just offence, that the Cardinal set his own arms above the King's on the gate-house at the entrance into the College. This was no verbal, but a real Ego et Rtx meus, excusable by no plea in manners or grammar, except only by that which is rather fault than figure, a harsh downright hysterosis ; but to humble the Cardinal's pride, some one afterwards set up on a window a painted maslilf-dog gnawing the blade-bone of a shoulder of mutton, to mind the Cardinal of his extrac- tion, it being utterly improbable, as some have fancied, that that picture was placed there by the Cardinal's own appointment, to be to him a monitor of humility." — Fuller's Church History, f Grose's Antiq, V. 79, SUFFOLK. *' At Peter's/* says the Journal of Dowsing, the parliamentary visitor " was in the porch, the crown of thorns, the sponge and nails, and the Trinity, in stone, and the rails were there, all which I ordered to break in pieces." A curious font, however, of great antiquity, still remains in this church. In St. Peter's parish stftod the mansion granted in the reign of Edward VI. to the Bishop of Norwich, by the appellation of Lord Cursm^s House. It was afterwards called the King's Hospital, having been applied to that purpose for seamen during the Dutch wars. The strong and stately brick porch belonging to this edi- fice was demolished in 1 760 ; it was subsequently known as the Elephant and Castle, and is now a malt-kiln. By a statute enacted 26 Henry VIII. Ipswich was appointed for the seat of a suffragan bishop ; and the common notion is, that this house was intended for his residence. Thomas Manning, prior of Butley, conse- crated by Archbishop Cranmer in 1525, was the first and last suffragan bishop of Ipswich, after whose decease, a£> it is sup- posed, this mansion was granted to the Bishop of Norwich. In the suburbs beyond the river stood the church of St. Austin, near the green of the same name. It is often called a chapel ; but1n the time of the Conqueror it possessed eleven acres of land, and procurations were paid for it by the prior of St. Peter's, so that it was parochial, and probably impropriated to that priory. It was in use in 1 482. All the houses and land on the south side of the Orwell, at present forming part of St. Peter's parish, are supposed to have once belonged to that of St. Austin. Not far from this church, and probably opposite to it, stood St. Leonard's Hospital, now a farm-house belonging to Christ's Hospital in this town. St. St€phe7i*s is a rectory, the presentation to which devolved, with the Christ-church estate, to the family of Fonnereau. In Brook-street, in this parish, was a mansion belonging to Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, on the spot where now stands the Coach and Horses Inn, Some remains of an older building may 256 SUFFOLK. may still be traced on the walls forming; the back part of the pre- sent house. The Tankard public-house, next door to the Coach and Horses^ formed part of the residence of Sir Anthony Wingfield, knight of the garter, vice-chamberlain, privy-counsellor, and one of the executors of Henry VIII. Some curious remains of the decora- tions of this ancient edifice still exist, particularly in a room on the ground-floor, the oak wainscot of which, curiously carved in festoons of flowers formerly gilt, is now painted blue and white. Hei'e the arms of Wingfield are yet to be seen ; the ceiling is of groined work ; and over the fire-place is a basso-relievo in plas- ter, colored, which uninterrupted tradition referred till a few years since to the battle of Bosworth. This interpretation is adopted by Mr. Gough, who describes it as exhibiting " Leicester- town in one corner ; several warriors in the middle ; Sir Charles Wil- liam Brandon, who is supposed to have lived here, father to Charles Brandon Duke of Suftolk, and standard-bearer to the Earl of Richmond, lies dead by his horse, and on the other side the standard : at a distance seems to be the earl, w ith the crown placed on his head by Sir William Stanley ; in another is Lei- cester-abbey, the abbot coming out of tlie porch to compliment the earl."* A correspondent of the Gentleman's Magazine has, how^ ever, given a much more plausible construction, and. asserted, that this curious relic delineates the Judgment of Paris, and its con- sequences, in five compartments.! In this explanation he seems to be borne out by an actual inspection of the piece. Another * Gpui>/i's Camden, TI. 166^ This writer seems to have been led into the common notion, by the idea that the house in question was the residence of the Brandons. Under the same erroneous impression he adds, that Lady Jane Grey (who was grand-daughter to Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolk,) was born here. Ipswich has no chiim to the honor of being the birth-place of that celebrated but unfortunate Iximale, who came into the world at her father's seat at Bradgate, in Leicestershire. See Btuuties, IX. 396. f 'Mn the first, says tiie writer, he appears seated, habited in his Phrygian robe and bonnet, amusing himself with his lute, when the three goddesses present SUFFOLK. 257 Another part of the mansion of the Wingfields having succes- sively served as a popish ehapel for Judge Wilton, in the reign of James II. ; and a dancing-school has since heen converted into a Theatre, Ipswich enjoys tlie honour of having first witnessed and acknowledged the inimitable powers of David Garrick, who, under the assumed name of Lyddal, is said to have made his first dramatic essay on this stage about 1739, in DunstaPs company from London, in the part of Dick, in the Lying Valet. Besides the churches already mentioned, Ipswich had formerly one dedicated to St. Gregory, and impropriated to Woodbridge priory : but nothing farther is known concerning it. Mention is also made of the church of Osterbolt, as being antiquated so early as 21 Edward III. It is conjectured to have stood near the east- gate, and to have derived its appellation from that circumstance ; and as St. Clement's is not named in Domesday, it might pro- bably have been erected instead of this dilapidated church of Osterbolt. Ipswich has a spacious Market-place, in the centre of which is a handsome cross, with commodious shambles, first built by Mr. Edmund Daundy, though the vulgar, notion ascribes tlieir erection to Cardinal Wolsey. They were rebuilt, or at least tho- VoL. XIV. S roughly present themselves. The next scene is his adjudgment of the prizes, wlicn Juno, as queen of Heaven, leads the way, followed by Venus disclosing ail her charms, and Pallas with the Gorgon's head and Jigis. Paris, won by tlie attractions of the goddess of love, and her assistant son, who hovers above in the air, decrees to her the prize whicli he holds in his hand. We next view him armed cap-a-pie, reclining perhaps at the foot of the statue of his pa- troness, meditating his conquest, his lance lying beside him, and his liorse standing saddled and bridled. The reclining warrior and the horse arc the only figures in the piece that could possibly suggest the idea of the b.ttlle of Bosworth : but the latter might with as much propriety have been Vdkcn for the Trojan horse, as for that of Richard III. or Paris for thatking> Below, in the left corner, we see Paris and one of his friends, with horses, preparing to carry off Helen ; and in the distance they appear offering up their vows in the temple of Venus, or perhaps solemnizing their nuptials while the horse or horses are wailing without-"— (Jc//f, Mag. 1796. SUFFOLK. roughly repaired, about the year 1600, since which time nothing of consequence has been done to them. On the Corn-hill, in the market-place, also stood a rotunda, originally intended for a mar- ket-house ; but having long been a mere nuisance, it was takea down in 1811, when a plan was proposed for erecting a hand- some Corn-Exchange on its site. In 1810, five geiitlemen of this town, with a public spirit and liberality which do them honour, at their joint expence undertook the erection of a New Market, which was completely finished in November, 1811. It occupies nearly an acre of ground, and is contiguous to the old Butter-market, an incommodious and nar- row street, where the principal market had usually been held. It is composed of an outer and inner quadrangle ; round each runs a range of buildings, supported by stone columns, which afford shelter and accommodation to persons frequenting the mar- ket, who pay a small annual or weekly rent. In the centre of the interior quadrangle is a fountain, the pedestal of which is surmounted with a pyramid of Portland stone, forming an obelisk about twenty feet in height. On each side of the pedestal a bason is cut in the solid stone, and supplied with water from a lion's head above. By tiiese means, the water which before rao waste through the town, is now made to contribute to the conve- nience and ornament of the market. The whole undertaking has cost the proprietors about 10,0001, It was executed from the designs, and under the immediate direction of Mr. William Brown, architect, of Ipswich, to whose professional talents it is highly creditable. Adjoining is an enclosed cattle market, (an arrange- ment truly desirable in every populous town,) likewise the work of the same proprietors. Tlie market-days are Tuesday and Thursday for small meat ; Wednesday and Friday for fish ; and Saturday for all kinds of provisions. In the County Gaol " the gentlemen of Suffolk," says Mr. Nield, " have erected here, as well as at Bury, a striking monu- ment of their humane attention to the health of the wretched, and the morals of the prisoner. The boundary-wall of this edifice 9 incloses SUFFOLK. 259 incloses about an acre and a half of ground, and is twenty feet high. In front is the turnkey's lodge with a lead roof, on which executions take place. From the lodge an avenue ninety-eight feet long leads to the keeper's-house, in the centre of the prison, from which the several court-yards are completely in- spected. The prison consists of four wings, to wliich are attached spacious airy courts about 75 feet by 45, and three smaller, about 44 feet square, in one of which is the engine-house, as a provi- sion against fire. * The chapel is up one pair of stairs in the gaoler's house, and is surmounted by a turret top witli an alarum bell ; and here, as well as in the prison, its inmates, both debtors and felons, are kept separate, according to their respective classes and sexes. The county has not hitherto provided employment ; but such prisoners as can procure it from without, are allowed to receive the whole of their earnings. The gaoler has a salary of J, 2001. per annum, with coals and candles for his own use ; there is also a chaplain, who is paid 501. a year ; and a surgeon is al- lowed 601. for his attendance on this prison and the House of Correction. The House of Correction stands in an airy situation near the Borough Gaol, and is surrounded by a boundary-wall seventeen feet high. It contains three court-yards, each 50 feet by 30, and has a chapel in the keeper's house. The Town, anct Borough Gaol is situated in St. Matthew's- street. The keeper's house fronts the street ; and behind it is the debtors' court-yard, 90 feet by 27, with a gravel-walk. At the west-end of the building is a neat little chapel, which has a regular chaplain, with a salary of 301. The prisoners here employ themselves in spinning, making garters, cutting skewers, and such like occupations, and receive the full amount of their earn- ings. Debtors are confined here upon writs of capias issuing out of the Court of Small Pleas, held for the town and borough every^ fortnight on a Monday. No debtor in execution had ever reaped any benefit from the Lords' Act till December 30, 1805, when S2 Mr. 260 SUFrOLK. Mr. Pulliam, solicitor of Woodbridge, obtained the sixpences for them at his own expence. To the public buildings already enumerated, must be added, a chapel for the Unitarians in St. Nicholas-street, which is adorned about the pulpit with some elegant carving ; another for the Ana- baptists at Stoke ; an Assembly -Room, in Tavern-street, of good dimensions, but neitlier very elegant in its appearance, nor well attended : and a handsome stone Bridge connecting the town with its suburb. Stoke Hamlet. Among the benevolent institutions of this town are three cha- rity schools, in two of which are seventy boys, and in the third, forty girls. Besides these, it has a school on the plan of Mr. Lan- caster, opened July 8, 1811, with 200 boys. An excellent charity for the relief and support of the widows and orphans of poor clergymen in the county, was begun here in 1704, l)y tlie voluntary subscriptions of a few gentlemen of Ips- wich and Woodbridge, and their vicinity ; an institution which has since been eminently successful in effecting the laudable pur- pose for which it was designed. A small distance from the town, on the Woodbridge road, ex- tensive Barracks have been within these few years erected for infantry and cavalry. They are capable of accommodating ten or twelve thousand men ; and to the troops lying here, Ipswich owes no small portion of its recent improvement and present flourish- ing condition. A little beyond the barracks is the Race-course^ forming part of an extensive common, which, being the property of the corpor.atioii, was sold in 1811 to several private indivi- duals; so that the sports of tiie turf will probably soon be sup- planted by more beneficial pursuits. Tliis town was formerly famous for its manufactures of broad cloth, and tlie best canvas for sail-cloth, called Ipswich Double. Wliile those manufactures continued to flourish, it had several companies of traders incorporated by charter, as clothiers, mer- chant-taylors, merchant-adventurers, and others. About the mid- dle of the seventeenth century the woollen trade began to decline here. SUFFOLK. 2G1 here, and gradually dwindled entirely away. Its loss was so se- verely felt for a long time, that Ipswich acquired the character of being a town without people." Favourably seated for commer- cial speculations, it has at length recovered this shock, and is now rapidly increasing in consequence and population. Its prin- cipal traffic at present is in malting and corn, the exportation of which by sea is facilitated by the sestuary of the Orwell, navigable for light vessels up to the town itself, while those of greater burden are obliged to bring-to at Downham Reach, three or four miles lower down. This port is almost dry at ebb ; but the re- turning tide, generally rising about twelve feet, converts it into a magnificent sheet of water. Here are two yards employed in ship-building ; and though the number of vessels belonging to Ipswich is said to have declined from the decrease of the coal- trade, yet more than 30,000 chaldron are annually imported into this town. Vessels fitted up for the accommodation of passengers, like the Gravesend boats at London, sail every tide from Ipswich to Har- wich, and back again; an excursion that is rendered truly de- lightful, by the beauty of the surrounding scenery. The Orwell, which, for its extent, may be pronounced one of the finest salt- rivers in the kingdom, is bordered on either side almost the whole way with gently rising hills, enriched with gentlemen's seats, villages with their churches, woods, noble avenues, parks stocked with deer, extending to the water's edge; and, in a word, almost every object that can give variety to a landscape. In the passage from Ipswich, the view is terminated in front by the main ocean ; on the right with a prospect of Harwich, and the high coast of Essex ; on the left with Languard Fort, and the high land of Walton, and Felixtow cliffs behind it. On the return to Ipswich,* the scene closes with a view of that town, whicli appears to great advantage, accommodating itself in a sort of half-moon to the winding of the river. During the reign of Queen Mary, Ipswich witnessed some of ihose cruelties which have attached indelible disgrace to the uie- S 3 mory 262 SUFFOLK. mory of that princess. On the 31st of August 1555, Robert Samuel, minister of Baifold in this county, and on the 19th of February following, Anne Potten, a brewer's wife, and Joan Trunchfieid, a shoe-maker's wife, were burnt in this town for their adherence to the Protestant faith. Among the eminent persons to whom Ipswich has given birth, the first place indisputably belongs to Thomas Wolsey, who, by means of distinguished abilities, and a fortunate concurrence of circumstances, raised himself from an obscure situation to the highest offices in the church and state. He was born in 1471 ; but we meet with nothing to countenance the common report that liis father was a butcher. From the par- ticulars respecting Mr. Daundy, given in a preceding page, it even appears that Wolsey was well allied ; and it seems very pro- bable that his parents were not in such mean circumstances as his enemies have taught the world to believe. Be this as it may, he received his education at the grammar-school of his native town, and at Magdalen College, Oxford. Having embraced the eccle- siastical profession, he was presented in 1500 to the rectory of Lymington, by Henry Grey, Marquis of Dorset, whose three sons were under his tuition. Probably through the recommenda- tion of this nobleman, he was sent by Henry VII. on a "mission to the Emperor Maximilian, and acquitted himself so much to the satisfaction of the king, that on his return he was rewarded with the deanery of Lincoln, and a prebend in that cathedral. His introduction to the court of Henry VIII. he owed to Fox, bishop of Winchester, whom he soon supplanted in his master's favour, by which he rapidly rose to the station of sole and absolute mini- ster. He successively became bishop of Tournay in Flanders, which city the king had just taken, a cardinal, bishop of Win- chester, archbishop of York, and lord high-chancellor of Eng- land. The revenues derived from all his places is said to have equalled those of the sovereign ; and he expended them in a man- ner not less magnificent. Among his retinue, composed of 800 per- sons, were many gentlemen, knights, and even individuals of noble birth. SUFFOLK. 263 fcirtli. He built the palace of Hampton-Court ; and York -place, in London, which afterwards received the name of Wliitehall ; and the foundation of Christ Church College, Oxford, and of his college at Ipswich, attest his endeavors for tlie promotion of learning. Naturally ambitious, Wolsey was not satisfied with the honours which he had obtained, but aspired to the papal tiara. Disappointed in his hopes by the emperor Charles V. who had promised to support him, Wolsey revenged himself by promoting the divorce of his master from Catharine of Arragon, aunt to his imperial majesty. This affair, however, proved the occasion of the cardinaPs downfal. The obstacles to the accomplishment of Henry's wishes being too powerful for even Wolsey to remove so speedily as the king desired, he incurred Heme's displeasure, and being at the same time undermined by his enemies, he was suddenly stripped of all his employments, banished from the court, and apprehended for high treason. Having reached Leicester on his way from York to London, death interposed on the 30th of November 1530, and saved him from farther humiliations*. Ralph Brown rig, son of a merchant of Ipswich, was born there in 1592, and educated at Pembroke Hall, Cambridge, After obtaining various preferments in tlie cluirch, he was, in |64l, nominated successor to Dr. Hall in the see of Exeter. On the commencement of the civil war he was deprived of all his preferments, and led a retired life, till, in 1657, he was chosen preacher at the Temple, and died in 1659 in London. Notwith- standing his immoveable principles of loyalty. Dr. Brownrig is said to have been consulted on a subject of considerable import- ance by Cromwell, and to have returned this answer : " My lord, the best advice I can give you, is. Render unto Csesar the things that are Caesar's, and unto God the things that are God's.''— His life was published in octavo, in 1660; and there are two folio volumes of his Sermons, sixty-five in number, published in 1661 and 1664, with his portrait prefixed. Benjamin Lany, youngest son of John Lany, Esq, of Crat- fieia * See Beauties, IX. 544. S4 264 SUFFOLK. field in this county, was born at Ipswich towards tlie conclusion of the sixteenth century. He was successively bishop of Peter- borough, Lincoln, and Ely, and died in 1674.* Clara Reeve, a lady who holds an honorable rank among the female writers of the last century, was the eldest daughter of the Rev. William Reeve, many years minister of St. Nicholas' church in this town, and sister to the late vice-admiral Reeve. She commenced her literary career in 1772, with a translation from the Latin of tliat fine old romance Barclay*s Argents. Her next publication, in 1777, was The Old English Baron, a story which acquired considerable popularity. This was succeeded by various other performances, which, as it has justly been observed, discover her to have cultivated useful knowledge with consider- able success ; and to have applied that knowledge less frivolously than is frequently the case with female authors. She died at Ipswich December 3, 1807, in an advanced age. Sarah Trimmer, whose numerous works for the religious instruction and education of young people, and the poor, will be a durable monument in honour of her memory, was also a native of Ipswich. She was the only daughter of Joshua Kirby, Esq. designer in perspective to their majesties; married Mr, James Trimmer, of Old Brentford, whom she survived ; and expired in her chair while perusing the letters of a deceased friend, Decem- ber 15, 1810, in her 70th year.f THE HUNDRED OF CARLFORD is bounded on the east by the hundreds of Loes and Wilford ; on the south by Colneis ; on the west by Bosmere and Claydon, and the Liberty of Ipswich ; and on the north, where it terminates in a very narrow point, it borders partly on Bosmere and Claydon, and partly on Loes. This hundred contains no market-town. In • See Beauties, Vol. XI. Northamptonshire, p. 15, and Vol. TX. p. 625. t Such readers as wish to see a complete list of her numerous works, are referred to the Gaitlemaii's Magazine, Vol. LXXXI. p. 86. SUFFOLK. 265 In the parish of Great Bealings is Sechford Hall, remark- able for a family of that name which flourished there from the time of Edward I. to that of Charles I. and to which belonged Thomas Seckford, Esq. the great benefactor of the neig-hboring town of Woodbridge. The last of this family married Dorothy, daughter of Sir Henry North, and settled the estate upon her. At her death in 1673, she bequeathed it to Seckford Cage, the heir- general of the Seckford family, by whom it was sold to the At- kinson's. Brightwell about the middle of the seventeenth century be- came the property of the family of Barnardiston. In 1663 Sir Samuel Barnardiston, Knt. of this place, was created a baronet. He rebuilt the Hall at a considerable expense, and entailed the estate on his heirs male ; but these failing, it devolved to the fe- males, and the title is extinct. The Hall at Grundisburgh, now the property of B. G. Dil- lingham, Esq. was formerly the residence of the family of Blois. Charles Blois, Esq. of this place was created a baronet in 1668, and removed hence to Cockfield Hall, Yoxford, where his suc- cessors have ever since continued. The steeple of the church of Grundisburgh having fallen down about the time of the Reformation, it remained without any till near the middle of last century, when a very handsome one was erected by the executors of Mr. Robert Thing, who left an estate to be sold for that purpose. Ottley was for a long series of years the demesne of the Lords Abergavenny. A substantial old mansion here was formerly the seat of the Gosnold family. In the church is a monument for John Gosnold, who died in 1628, with an inscription, recording that he was descended from the right ancient and wortliy families of Naunton and Wingfield of Letheringham ; that he was gentle- man-usher to Queen Elizabeth and Kin.; James, and afterwards gentleman of the privy-chamber to King Charles I. ; and that Winifred, his wife, was a grand-daughter of Sir Richard Poole, and the Lady Margaret, Countess of Salisbury, daughter of George SUFFOLK. George Duke of Clarence, brother of King Edward IV. This family suffered so severely during the domestic troubles in the reign of Charles I. that Lionel, with whom it became extinct, and who was rector of this parish, was obliged to sell the estate. Playford was the seat of the ancient family of Feltoh. Ed- mund Felton, who married a daughter of Robert Garrard of Cod- denham in this county, was the fatlier of Sir Thomas Felton, chief justice of Chester under Edward III. and Richard II. His younger son, John, applied himself to commerce with such suc- cess, that he was styled, by way of eminence, the Chapman, John, grandson of the latter, acquired the lordship and estate of Shotley, by his union with Joan, daughter and heiress of Sir Thomas Mosel, Knt. of that place, and was succeeded by his grandson Robert, who marrying the heiress of Sir Thomas Samp- son of Playford, added this lordship, with other manors and estates in the neighborhood, to his former possessions. His descendant, Robert, was invested with the order of the Bath at tlie coronation of King James 1. ; and Henry, his successor, was created a ba- ronet in 1621. On the death of the two grandsons of the first baronet without male issue, the title became extinct, and the estate devolved to the first Earl of Bristol of the Hervey family, in right of his countess, the daughter and heiress of Sir Thomas, the elder of the brothers. Playford church is said to have been built by one of the Fel- tons, who is interred in it. RusHMERE is conjectured by some to have been the place where Ulfketel, earl of the East-Angles, engaged the Danes, who had invaded this country in 1010; though others, witii a greater appearance of probability, are inclined to consider Nacton in Col- neis, as the scene of that conflict, for reasons which will be men- tioned in treating of that place. At WiTNESiiAM was the ancient mansion of Bartholomew Burghersb, one of the first knights of the garter, or, as they are styled. Founders of that order. The site of tliis house may still be traced by the moat which surrounded it ; and a road, corruptly called SUFFOLK. 267 called Burrage-lane, derived its name from him. The estate de- scended, at his death, to Edward le Despenser, who had married his only daughter. Here was formerly a free-chapel dedicated to St. Thomas, ** th© ruins of which/' says Kirby/" " appeared not long since in a meadow called Burghersh.^' In this parish, not far from the church, rises the rivulet Fyn, which discharges itself into the Debeu at Martlesham. HUNDRED OF COLNEIS. Colneis is bounded on the east by the river Deben, which sepa- rates it from the hundred of Wilford ; on the south by the German Ocean ; on the west by the Orwell and the Liberty of Ipswich ; and on the north by Carlford. The most remarkable places in tliis hundred are : Felixtow, a small village, agreeably situated at the mouth of the Deben. It is conjectured to have derived its name from Felix, the Burgundian, the first bishop of Dunwich, who might probably have landed here on his first arrival in this country. From the many little mitred images that have been discovered at Felixtow, and are supposed to have been made in honor of hitn, he is thought to have resided for some time at this place, previ- ously to his removal to Dunwich. At Levington is an alms-house for six poor persons of that parish and of Nacton, founded and endowed pursuant to the will of Sir Robert Ilitcham, who was a native of this place. The steeple of the church, now consolidated with Nacton, was also built by him, as appears from his arms, and the date upon it. Close to Levington stood Stralton church or chapel, the ruins of which, overgrown with trees and bushes, were to be seen some years since, in the middle of a field, thence denomijiated Chapel- field. Here was formerly a lazar-house also, endowed with a moiety of the tithes of Stratton. In • Suflfolk Traveller, secor.d edit. p. 94. 268 SUFFOLK. In a farmer's yard at Levingtoii was dug^tlie first crag or shell that has been found so useful for the improvement of land. This kind of manure, though long employed in the west of England, was not used in Suffolk till the discovery of its efficacy was acci- dentally made by one Edwards, about the year 1718. This man covering a field with dung from his yard, and wanting a load or two to complete his work, took some of the soil that had lain near the dung, though it appeared to hira to he no better than sand. To his surprize he observed, that the land on which it was spread proved more productive than the rest ; on which he was encou- raged to apply more of this crag the next year, and with such suc- cess, that others were induced to follow his example. Nactotj was the manor and estate of the Fastolfs from 1380, till it devolved by marriage to the Brokes. This family is de- scended from Sir Richard Broke, lord chief baron in the reign of Henry VIII. Robert Broke, of Nacton, was created a baronet in 1661 ; but the patent was made out in such a way, that on his death, without male issue, his nephew, who had married his daughter and heiress, could not succeed to the title. The pre- sent possessor of the estate is P. V. Broke, Esq. a captain in the royal navy, who has a handsome mansion here. The celebrated Admiral Vernon, the captor of Porto Bello, fixed his residence in this parish. His nephew, to whom he left the masis of his fortune after his death, rebuilt the house, and sur- rounded it witli a park, to which, from the beautiful river that it borders upon, he gave the name of Orivdl Park. This gentleman did still farther honor to the river, for on bis being created a peer of Ireland in 1762, he took his title from it as Baron Orwell. In 1776 he was created Viscount Orwell ; and Earl of Shipbrooke in the following year: bnt on his death in 1783 the title became extinct. The estate is now the property of his nephew, John Vernon, Esq. At Nacton is the house of industry for the incorporated hun- dreds of Carlfurd and Colneis, erected in 1757, at an expence of 4,8001. SUFFOLK. 269 4,8001. ami first inliabited in the following year. The poor are employed iii spinning wool and making- sacks. In tliis parish, near the road from Ipswich to Trimley, is a place called the Seven Hills, from a number of elevations, which have all the appearance of barrows, though there are more than tlie name implies. Hence it has been plausibly conjectured that it was near this spot, and not at Rushmere, tiu\t Earl Ulfkctel engaged the Danes in 1010. North of the bounds of Nacton, and between them and the Liberty of Ipswich, is a tract of land now become extra-parochial. Part of this, contiguous to the Orwell, belonged to a little prioi^ of Augustine Friars called Alnesborne priory, on the site of whiclt a farm-house has been erected, while a bain occupies that of its church or cliapel. In 1452 it was united to Woodbridge priory. In a deed among the writings of the latter, it is termed a manor, was let, 22 Henry VIII. by the prior to a citizen of Ipswich, by the style of Mancrium de Alnesborne et Ponds: and in the de- scription of a few fields held of this manor, they are said to lie in \ the hamlet of Alnesborne, in the parish of Hallowlree. This district appears, from ancient records, to have contained thr£e churches, besides tlie chapel of Alnesborne priory ; Hallowtree, or, as it is sometimes written, Halgehetre, St. Petronille, and Bixley : but there is no certain account where any of them stood. At Trimley St. Martin is Grimstone Hall, formerly the seat of Thomas Cavendish, the second Englishman that circum- navigated tlie globe. This gentleman, at his own expence, fitted out three small vessels of 120, 60, and 40 tons, manned by 123 men and boys, for the purpose of annoying the Spaniards in their American possessions. Sailing from Plymouth in July 15S6, he passed through the Straits of Magellan, and entered the South Seas, wliere he plundered several towns on the coasts of Chili and Peru, and took many valuable prizes, especially the Santa Anna, a large Acapulco ship, richly laden witli specie and merchandize. He then returned home by way of the Cape of 270 SUFFOLK. of Good Hope, and reached Plymouth September 19, 1588, tw« years and fifty days after his departure.* The success of this voyage encouraged Cavendish to make a second attempt witli a stronger force : and in August, 1591, he sailed from Plymouth with five ships on a similar expedition: but having passed the Straits of Magellan in May 1592, he was parted from his fleet in the night, and never heard of after- wards, f Two ilexes, said to have been planted by this navigator, are still standing at Grimstone Hall. This mansion became by pur- chase the property of John Barker, Esq. who was created a ba- ronet in 1621 ; but the family is now extinct. Of Alliston church, consolidated with Triraley, no remains are now to be seen ; but from the great number of human bones and skulls * In Hachluyt's Collection is an account of this expedition, entitled, " The Admirable and Prosperous Voyage of the Worshipful Master Thomas Candish, ofTrimley, in the County of Suffolk, Esquire. Written by Master Franfcis Pretty, lately of Ey in Suffolk, a gentleman employed in the same action. To which is there added certain rare and special Notes relating to this Voyage, \vritten by Master Thomas Fuller, of Ipswich, Mho was master of the Desire." The Desire was the largest of the three vessels, commanded by Cavendish himself. t Lambard, (JDict. p, 124) arguing in favor of the opinion that there were formerly' men of most extraordinary stature, relates the following anecdote of this navigator :— " Since the beginning of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, there were found in Suffolk, over against Harwich in Essex, by a gentleman called Cavendish, the bones of a man, whereof the skull was able to contain five pecks, and one of his leeth is as big as a man's fist, and weigheth ten ounces. These bones had sometimes bodies not of beasts but of men, for the difference is manifest." That bones of prodigious size have been discovered in this neighborhood is 1 very probable ; lor. I have myself seen in the possession af Roger Pettiward, Esq, of Finborough Hall, near Stowmarket, a petrified elephant's tooth, found in the cliffs on tlie coast of the adjoining parish of Walton : but to suppose that such relics as Lambard describes, could have belonged to human bodies, would require a greater share of credulity than people at the present d^y are 330 SUFFOLK. an old chapel, in a wall of which, as Grose was informed, a chest of money was found arched into the wall, and the arch was still visible .^hen the view given by hiai was taken. Glemham Parva gave name to a family, which flourished there till the middle of the seventeenth century, when two persons belonging to it raised themselves to great em'-n nee in their re- spective professions. Sir Thomas was the eldest son of Sir Henry Glemham, of this place, by Anne, dauohter of Thomas Sackville, Earl of Dorset. On finishing his education at Trinity College, Oxford, he embraced a military life, and went tc Ger- masiy, which was then the school for English officers. Returning to his native country at the commencement of the war between Charles I. and his parliameint. Sir Thomas took the p?irt of his majesty; and was enabled, by the skill which he had acquired abroad, to render him the most signal services. Having reduced York, which had declared for the parliament, he was appointed governor of that city, and defended it with the greatest intrepidity for eigh- teen weeks against the united forces of the English and Scotch, ' till the defeat of the king at Marston Moor compelled him to capitulate, but upon terms honorable to himself and^ advantageous to the citizens. He was then sent to command the garrison of Carlisle, which, assisted by his two gallant countrymen. Colonel Gosnold, of Ottley, and Major Naunton, of Letheringham, he defended nine months, in spite of pestilence and famine, with remarkable circumstances of resolution and patience ; and on his surrender, obtained not less honorable terms for that city than he had for York. The fortitude and gallantry displayed by Sir Thomas on both these occasions, marked him as the fittest person to be appointed to a similar command at Oxford. Here he aug- mented and strengthened the works, and prepared for an obsti- nate resistance in case of a siege, which, though it would have probably terminated in his surrender, must have cost the enemy a great expence of blood. His majesty, however, in the hope of obtaining some important advantages forliimself and his friends, sent * Antiquities, V. 61, SUFFOLK. Aent express orders to Sir Thomas to give up the place, and with these he reluctantly complied, but not till he had stipulated with Fairfax for the most favorable terms. Being-, however, contrary to the articles, soon afterwards appreliended, he was imprisoned for some time, and, on his release, fled to Holland, where he died in 1649. His brother caused his remains to be brought to England, and interred in the church of this his native place, with the following inscription on his monument : Tho. Glemliam, cui castra Carleolense Et Eboracense Monuinentum sunt, et Oxonium Epitapbium. Henry, the brother of Sir Thomas, was equally distinguished for loyalty and attachment to the royal cause. He was bred to the church ; and on the triumph of the popular party was de- prived of all his preferments. On the restoration of Charles II. his Bdelity was rewarded with the appointment, first, to the deanery of Bristol; and in 1667 to the bishopric of St. Asaph. He sur- vived this promotion only two years, and was interred in the vault belonging to his family in the parish church of this place. In the grandson of Sir Thomas, the family of Glemham be- came extinct. The estate was purchased by Dudley North, Esq. who made great improvements in the Hall, where his son now resides. Parham was the lordship of the de Uffords, Earls of Suffolk. The church was built by William de UfFord, who dying suddenly while attending his parliamentary duty, the estate went to his sister. Cicely, who married Sir Robert Willoughby, and carried it into that family. Their descendants, who were elevated to the peerage by the title of Willoughby de Eresby, were for some time in possession of this manor, till one of those barons gave it to his youngest son Christopher, who fixed his residence here. His son. Sir William, was, in the first year of Edward VI. created Lord Willoughby of Parham; and his successors enjoyed the konour till the death of Henry, the sixteenth lord, in 1775. The 4 title 982 SUFFOLK. title is now vested in Priscilla Barbara Elizabeth Lindsay, wife of Lord Gwydir, daughter and co-heir of Peregrine, Duke of An- caster, and joint hereditary great Chamberlain of England. In 1734, tlie bones of a man, an urn, and the head of a spear, were found in a gravel pit in a field called Fryer's Close, in this parish. This place seems to have had its Christmas-flowering thorn like that at Glastonbury. It is mentioned by Kirby, in the first edi- tion of his Svffolk Traveller ; and the Ipswicli Journal of January 13, 1753, contains a letter, affirming that it budded eleven days earlier than usual, in order to accommodate itself to the new style. The publisher of that paper, however, observes, notwith- standing the positive manner of the writer, that he had received a very different account of the Parham thorn. At Parham was born in 1717 Joshua Kirby, F. R.S. A. S designer in perspective to their Majesties. He was the son of John Kirby, author of the Suffolk Traveller; and himself pub- lished in 1 768, Dr. Brook Taylor's Perspective Made Easy, a work of distinguished merit. Mr. Kirby died in 1774, and was interred in Kew church-yard, where the remains of his friend, Thomas Gainsborough, were afterwards, by his express desire, placed beside him. He married Miss Sarah Bull, of Framlingham, by whom he had two children; William, who died in 1771, and the late Mrs. Trimmer. Snape is of note only for a monastery of Black Friars, founded Ihere in 1099, by William Martell, Albreda, his wife, and Jeflfry, their son and heir, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Being J)ossessed of the manor of Snape, including the benefit of wrecks of the sea from Thorp to Hereford Ness, they gave it to the abbey of Colchester, for the purpose of founding at this place a priory, which should be a cell to that abbey. A prior and some Benedictine monks from that house were accordingly settled here in 1155; but upon complaint made by Isabel, Countess of Suffolk, and patroness of this priory, to Pope Boniface IX. that the said abbot and convent did not maintain a sufficient number of religious SUFFOLK* in it according to the will of the founders, tliis house was, by a bull, dated A. D. 1403, made conventual, and exempted from all subjection to that at Colchester. William de la Pole, Earl of Sufiblk, in the time of Henry VI. designed to have new-founded this priory ; wiiich was given by King Henry VII. in his 24tli year, to the monastery of Butley ; but the prior and his canons relinquished all claim to it in 1509. It was suppressed in 1524^ and given to Cardinal Wolsey for the endowment of his colleges; and after the CardinaPs attainder, the site of this edifice wa« granted to Thomas, Duke of Norfolk. The church of Snape is dedicated to St. John Baptist, and contains a very ancient and highly ornamented stone font. The figures round the pillar by which it is supported are an assemblage of kings, prelates, and non-descript birds, standing on pedestals. The font is hexagonal, having a pillar at each angle ; between the pillars are figures, the alternate ones of which are crowned : the othei-s are in priest's habits, and all of them bear a scroUjc the characters of which are illegible.^ HUNDRED OF BLITHING: The hundred of Blithing is bounded on the east by the Ocean ; on the west and south by the hundreds of Hoxne and Plomesgate ; and on the north by Wangford and Mutford. It contains forty- eight parishes^ and three market-towns, Dunwich, Halesworth, and Southwold. Dunwich, once an important, opulent, and commercial city, now a mean village, stands on a cliff of considerable height^ commanding an extensive view of the German Ocean, about four miles south of Southwold. This place still retains its market, which is held on Mondays, but is so scantily supplied, as scarcely to deserve the name ; and has sent two members to par- liament • A view of this curious font is given in the Antiquarian and Topogra- phical Cabinet, No. 50, 334 SUFFOLK. liament ever since the Commons of England first acquired the right of representation. The corporation consists of two bailiffs, and twelve capital burgesses ; and tlie right of election lies in the freemen residing within the boroug h, and not receiving alms. Ac- cording to the returns of 1801, the town contained forty- two houses, and 184 inhabitants. Though many of the traditionary accounts relative to this town are probably fabulous, it is nevertheless certain that it is a place of very high antiquity. It is conjectured by some to have been a station of the Romans, from the number of their coins disco- vered here. So much is certain, that in the reign of Sigcbert, king of the East-Angles, Felix, the Burgundian bishop, whom that monarch invited hither to promote the conversion of his sub- jects to Christianity, fixed his episcopal see at Dunwich in the year 1636 : and here his successors continued, as is related under the ecclesiastical histor of the county, for about two hundred years. When an estimate was taken of all the lands in the kingdom by Edward the Confessor, there were two carves of land at Dun- wich, but one of these had been swallowed up by the sea before the Conqueror's survey was made. It was then the manor of Robert Malet, and contained eleven Bordarii, twenty-four free- men, each holding forty acres of land., 136 burgesses, 178 poor, and three churches. It became the demesne of the crown about the beginning of the reign of Henry II. at which time, as we are informed by William of Newbury, it had a mint, and was a town of good note, abounding with much riches, and sundry kinds of merchandizes. The annual fee-farm rent then paid by it was 1201. 13s. 4d. and twenty-four thousand herrings. This was pro- bably the period of its highest prosperity. Under Richard 1. Dunwich was fined 1060 marks, Orford 15, Ipswich 200, and Yarmouth 200, for unlawfully supplying the king's enemies with corn. These sums may afford some idea of the relative importance of those towns at that time. King John, ia the first year of bis reign, granted a charter to Dunwich, by which SUFFOLK. wl»icli its inliabitants were empowered among other {Iiings, to marry their sons and daughters as they pleased, and also to give, sell, or otherwise dispose of their possessions in this town as they should think fit. This charter, dated at Gold Cliff, 29th June, 1 John, cost them three hundred marks, besides ten falcons, and five ger-falcons. In the reign of King Edward I. after this town had consider- ably declined, it had eleven ships of war, sixteen fair ships, twenty barks, or vessels, trading to the North Seas, Iceland, &c. and twenty-four small boats for the home fishery. In the 24th year of the same reign, the men of Dunwich, built at their own cost, and equipped for the defence of the realm, eleven ships of war, most of which carried 72 men each. Four of these vessels with their artillery, valued at 2001. Avere taken and destroyed by the enemy, while on service off the coast of France. In 1347, this port sent six ships with 102 mariners, to assist in the siege of Calais; but during the war with France, most of the ships belonging to it were lost, together with the lives of about 500 townsmen, and goods, and merchandize to the value of 10001. A still greater loss however, was sustained by this town in the removal of its port ; a new one being opened within the limits of Blithburgh, not far from Walberswick Key, and two miles nearer to Southwold than the former port. This circumstance, wliile it greatly increased the trade of those places, caused that of Dun- wich to decline in the same proportion ; and, combined with the ravages of the ocean, gradually reduced this town to poverty ; in consideration of which, the fee-farm rent paid to the crown was abated at various times, till Charles II. fixed the amount of it at one hundred shillings per annum. The present ruinous state of this once flourishing place, Ts owing chiefly to the repeated encroachments of tlie ocean. Seat- ed upon a hill composed of loam and sand of a loose texture, on a coast destitute of rocks, it is not surprising that its buildings should have successively yielded to the impetuoisity of the bil- lows. 336 SUFFOLK. lows, breaking against, and easily undermining the foot of itiC precipices. The following general view of their principal ra- vages is extracted from Gardner's Historical Account : — We have already seen that out of two carves of land, taxed Tinder King Edward the Confessor, one had been washed away, at the time of the Conqueror's survey. The sea, agitated by violent east, or south-east winds, continued its conquests quite to the town, for whose preservation, Henry III. in the 6th year of his reign, not only required assistance of others, but himself granted 2001. towards making a fence to check its inroads. Dun- wich suffered considerable damage on the night of January Ist^ 1286, from the violence of the winds and sea, by which several churches were overthrown, and destroyed in different places. In the first year of Edward III. the old port was rendered entirely useless, and before the twenty -third of the same king, great part ©f the town, containing upwards of four hundred houses which paid rent to the fee-farm, wiih certain shops and windmills, had fallen a prey to the waves. After this, the church of St. Leo- nard was overthrown, and in the course of the same century, the churches of St. Martin, and St. Nicholas, were also destroyed. In 1540, the church of St. John Baptist was demolished, and before 1600, the chapels of St. Anthony, St. Francis, and St. Katherine, together with the South Gate, and Gilden Gate, were swallowed up, so that not one quarter o'' the town was then left standing. In the reign of Charles I. the Temple buildings yield- ed to the irresistible force of the surges, and the sea reached to the market-place in 1677, when the townsmen sold the mate- rials of the cross. In 1680, all the buildings north of Maison Dieu Lane were demolished ; and in 1702, the sea reached St. Peter's church, which was dismantled and soon undermined. The town-hall sliared the same fate. In 1715, the jail was absorbed, 5ind in 1729, the farthest bounds of St. Peter's church-yard were washed away. In December 1740, the wind blowing very hard from the north-east, and continuing for several days, occasioned terrible devastations. Great part of the cliff was carried away by the SUFFOLK. 337 the violence of the waves, which destroyed the last remains of the church-yard of St. Nicholas, together with the great road for- merly leading from the Key to the town, leaving several naked wells, the tokens of ancient buildings. King's Holm, otherwise called Leonard's Marsh, then worth 1001. per annum, was laid under water, and covered with such quantities of shingle and sand, as to be ever since of very little value. The Cock and Hen hills, which, the preceding summer, were forty feet high, had their heads levelled with their bases, and the ground about them was so rent and torn, that the foundation of the chapel of St. Francis, situated between them, was exposed to view. The remains of the dead were washed from their repositories, and se- veral skeletons appeared scattered upon the beach. A stone cof- fin containing human bodies covered with tiles, was also seen, but before it could be removed, the violence of the surges broke it in two pieces. Near the chapel, were found at the same time, the pipes of an aqueduct, some of which were of lead, and others of grey earth. The following year, in digging a trench for the purpose of draining the marshes overflowed the preceding winter, were discovered several old coins, and other curiosities, of which Gardner has given a representation in his History.* Dunwich had but one church in the time of Edward the Con- fessor, but in the reign of the Conqueror two more had been add- ed. The erection of the former is ascribed to Felix, the first bishop of Dunwich, to whom it was dedicated. It is farther reported that this saint was buried here in 647, but that his remains were afterwards removed to Soham, in Cambridge- shire. In the sequel this town contained six, if not eight parish churches : — St. John's church, a rectory, was a large edifice, and stood near the great market-place, in the centre of the town. In a will dated 1499, and proved in 1501, there is a legacy of ten marks for some ornaments for this cliurch, with the following clause : " If it fortune the church to decay by adventure of the Vol. XIV. Z sea, • See p. 9e. 338 SOFFOLK. sea, the ten marks to be disposed of by my attornies, (or execu- tors) where they think best/* About 1510 two legacies were given towards building a pier against St. John's church. The last insti- tution to it was in 1537. The inhabitants, to prevent its being washed away by the sea, took it down about the year 1540. In the chancel was a large grave stone, under wliich was discovered a stone coffin containing the corpse of a man, that fell to dust when stirred. On his legs, we are told, " were a pair of boots, picked like Crakows,'** and on his breast stood two chalices of coarse metal. He was conjectured to have been one of the Bishops of Dunwich.f St. Martin's, likewise a rectory, is thought to have stood on the east side of the town. The last institution to it, was in 1335. St. Leonard's was an impropriation. It probably stood east- wai'd of St. John's, and was early swallowed up by the sea, for in a will dated 14:50, the testator devised his house in the parish ancientli/ called St. Leonard's. St. Nicholas, a cross church, the tower, or steeple, standing in the midst of it, distant twenty rods south-east of the Black Friars. The last institution to this rectory was in 1352. The utmost bounds of its cemetery were washed away in 1740. St. Peter's, also a rectory, stood about sixty rods north-east of All Saints, and had a chapel on the north side of it called St. Ni- cholas's. This edifice, on account of the proximity of the sea, which daily threatened its overthrow, was by agreement of th« parishioners in 1702, stripped of the lead, timber, bells, and other materials. The walls which alone were left standing, being soon afterwards undermined by the waves, tumbled over the cliff. The churcli-yard was swallowed up by the devouring element, not more than twenty years before Gardner published his History, All Saints is the only church of which any portion is now standing. It w as built of flint and free-stone. The square tower is * Shoes with long pointed toes bent up\\ard* t Taunei'sColl. SUFFOtK. 339 is still pretty entire, but of tlie body of the church nothing but a por- tion of the exterior walls remains, and cattle graze within its area. It appears from Gardner, that about the year 1725, part of this edifice was demolished, and its dimensions considerably reduced. In the south aisle, which was then pulled down, were magisterial seats, decorated with curious carved work, and the windows were adorned with painted glass, which, through the carelessness of the glazier was broken in pieces. Most of the grave-stones had brass-plates with inscriptions, all of which were embezzled by the persons employed in the work. We find that in 1754, divine service was performed here once a fortniglit, from Lady Day to Michaelmas, and monthly during the rest of the year : but when it was discontinued we are not informed. Recent inscriptions in the church-yard, shew that it is still used as a place of interment for the parishioners. In the time of the Conqueror, all the churches then erected, or to be erected in Dunwich, were given by Robert Malet, to his priory at Eye, in his charter of endowment. The prior and con- vent accordingly presented to all instituted churches, and had tithes out of most of them, together with all the revenues of such as were impropriated, finding a secular priest to serve the cures. According to the Register of Ei/e, Dunwich had two other churches dedicated to St. Michael and St. Bartholomew, which are there recorded to have been swallowed up by the sea before 1331 ; when the prior and convent of Eye, petitioned the Bishop of Nor- wich to impropriate the church of Laxfield to them, alledging, among other reasons, that they had lost a considerable part of their revenues at Dunwich, by the irruptions of the ocean. Besides these churches, Weever mentions three chapels, dedi- cated to St. Anthony, St. Francis, and St. Katherine. The site of the first is unknown. The second stood between' Cock and Hen Hills, and as well as St. Katherine's, which was in St. J ohn's parish, is supposed to have fallen to decay in the reign of Henry VIII. In this town was anciently a house belonging to the Knight's Z 2 Templars, 340 SUFFOtK. Templars, and afterwards to the Hospitallers, endowed with a considerable estate in Dunwich and the contiguous hamlets of Westleton and Dingle. To this establishment belonged a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. John Baptist, built for the use of the tenants of the manor, whose houses were all distin- guished by crosses, the badge of the Knights. Here were also two monastic institutions, belonging to the Franciscans and Dominicans, or Grey and Black Friars. The first was founded by Richard Fitz-John, and Alice his wife, and its revenues were afterwards augmented by Henry III. The area encompassed by the walls of this house, which yet remain, is up- wards of seven acres. They had three gates ; one of these, the eastern, is demolished ; but the arches of the other two, standing close together to the westward, continue nearly entire. They have nothing remarkable in their construction, but being covered with ivy, form a picturesque object. The largest of these gates served for the principal entrance to the house, and the other led to the church. A barn is the only building now standing in this enclosure. The monastery of the Black Friars was founded by Sir Roger de Holish, In the eighth year of Richard II. the sea having washed away the shore almost up to this house, some attempts were made to remove the friars to Blithburgh. They nevertheless Continued here till the dissolution, when the site of this house, as well as that of the Grey Friars, was granted among other pos- sessions to John Eyre. Both of these monastic establishments had handsome churches belonging to them. Besides these religious edifices, Dunwich contained two hos- pitals. St. James's hospital, to which belonged a large, handsome church or chapel, was founded for a master, and several leprous bretliren and sisters, in the reign of Richard I. by Walter de RibofF. By the generosity of the foundei* and other benefactors, this establishment enjoyed ample revenues, till several sordid masters, for their private interest, alienated lands and other do- nations, to the great detriment of the fraternity, who being thus defrauded SUFFOLK. 341 defrauded of their subsistence gradually decreased, and their edi- fices fell into irreparable decay. Thus the large income of this once celebrated hospital is now dwindled to a trifling sum, which is applied to the maintenance of a few indigent people, who reside in a wretched house, being all that is left of their original habita- tion, except some remains of the church and chapel. The other hospital, denominated Maison Dieu, or God's House, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, was, as early as the time of Henry III. abundantly endowed with houses and lands, for a master, six brethren, and several sisters. The revenues, reduced through the same mismanagement as those of the hospital of St. James, to a mere trifle, are divided among a few poor people, who with the master, reside in two old decayed houses, which, with a small part of the church, are all that remains of this institution. In former times a wood, called East Wood, or the King's Fo- rest, extended several miles south-east of the town, but it has been for many ages destroyed by the sea. The land must conse- quently have stretched far out, and have formed the southern boundary of the bay of Southwold, as Easton-ness did the north- ern. Weever says, that the men of Dunwich, requiring the aid of William the Conqueror against the rage of the sea, affirmed that it had devoured great part of the Forest ; and Gardner in- forms us* that he had seen manuscripts mentioning that this mo- narch gave permission to the Rouses of Baddingham, and other gentlemen in the neighbourhood, to hunt and hawk in his forest at Dunwich. The same writer also relates, that in the furious ir- ruption of the sea in 1739, its impetuosity exposed the roots of a great number of trees once growing there, which appeared to be the extremity of some wood, and was in all probability the ancient forest. Contiguous to the latter was another wood, from its relative situation denominated Westwood. Hales WORTH is a well built town, situated near the river Blith, which has been made navigable up to this place. It con- tains 258 houses, and 1676 inhabitants, many of whom are em- Z 3 ployed ♦ Historical Account of Dunwich, &c. p. 38, 342 SUFFOLK. ployed in spinning linen yarn, great quantities of hemp being grown in the neighbourhood. Its market is on Thursday, and it has a yearly fair on the 29th of October. Though a place of considerable antiquity, it contains nothing worthy of notice, ex- cept a handsome Gothic church, and a charity-school. Sir Ro- bert Bedingfield, who was lord-mayor of London, in 1707, was a native of Hales worth. SouTHwoLi>, anciently Sudwald, or Southwood, was probably thus named from a wood near it^ as the western confines still re- tain the appellation of Wood's-end marshes, and Woods-end creek. It is pleasantly situated on an eminence overlooking the German Ocean, but nearly surrounded on every other side by the river Blith, which here discharges itself into the sea. This town was made corporate in 1489, by Henry VII. according to whose charter, confirmed by several succeeding sovereigns, it is govern- ed by two bailiffs, a recorder, and twelve aldermen. In 1801 it contained 266 houses, and 1054 inhabitants. The market on Thursday is well attended, and there are two fairs, on Trinity Monday, and the 24th of August. Though Southwold is not of such high antiquity as Dunwich Blithburgh, and some other neighbouring places, yet the inha- bitants were enabled, not only to enter into competition with those towns, but in time to surpass them in navigation and traffic. Alfric, Bishop of the East Angles, who possessed this lord- ship, gave it, among other donations, to the abbey of Bury St. Edmund's, by which it was held as one manor for the victualling of the monks. It had half, and a quarter of the other half of the sea belonging to the manor, before the Conqueror's time pay- ing 20,000 herrings; but after the conquest, 25,000. From the di- mensions of this manor given in Domesday survey, Gardner calculates that the sea has since gained upon this coast one mile, one furlong, and nineteen perches.* In the 43d Henry III. the manor of Southwold was exchanged, by Simon, abbot of Bury, for other possessions, with Richard de Clare, Earl of Gloucester, vho^ ♦ }lht. of Dunwich, &c. p. 189, 19Q. SUFFOLK. 343 who, in the year foUowinj^, obtained permission to convert his house in this town into a castle.^" By his son's wife, Joan of Acres, daughter of Edward I. it was carried, on her second marriage, into the family of Mounthermer, which had been invested witli the earldom of Gloucester and Hertford; but in 12th Edward III. some part of the manor was annexed to the priory at Wangford, and is now held by the corporation of Southwold, of Lord Rous, to whom the priory belongs. In the 10th Henry IV. Southwold was exempted from the pay- ment of any customs or tolls, for their small boats, passing in or out of the river, or port of Duuwicli. King Henry VII. in con- sideration of the industry and good services of the men of South- ^ wold, made the town a free burgh, or corporation, to be govern- ed by two bailiffs, a recorder, and other inferior officers, to whom, and the commonalty, he gave his lordship of the same, called Queen's demesne revenues, and also the privilege of admiralty, for the annual payment of 141. He moreover granted them ex- emption from all dues and customs payable to Dunwich, and con- ferred on the town the rights of a haven, which probably caused the denomination of the port of Dunwich to be changed to that of Southwold. Henry VIII. not only confirmed all his father's grants, but added to them many gifts, franchises, and immunities. These royal favors gave great encouragement to the trade and navigation of the town, of which the fishery constituted no small part; being carried on by merchants, who annually fitted out nu- merous vessels, tradition says upwards of fifty, for taking cod and other fish in the North Sea. The herring fishery oft' their own coast was also highly conducive to the prosperity of the town. Though Southwold was sensibly affected by the emancipation of the country from the papal supremacy, still it retained an exten- sive trade, and exfceeded all the neighbouring towns in shipping Z 4 and * This stiuctiire is supposed by Gardner, to have occupied the spot, where m the sequel Gueman's, or Siellman's stood ; many stones, some of tJiem hewn for arches, and other architectural remains, having of late years, sty b itiat writer, ijeen dug up in a garden there. 344 SUFFOLK. and commerce. But the greatest calamity that ever befel this place, was on the 25th of April 1659, when a fire, whose destruc- tive fury was heightened by a violent wind, consumed, in the space of four hours, the town-hall, market-house, market-place, prison, granaries, shops, warehouses, and 238 dwelling houses, and other buildings. The greatest part of the moveable goods, nets and tackling of the inhabitants for their fishery, and all their corn, malt, barley, fish, coals, and other merchandize, were de- stroyed in this conflagration, the total loss by which exceeded 40,0001. to the ruin of more than 300 families. By this disaster, many substantial persons were obliged to seek habitations else- where, so that the town never recovered its former importance ei- ther in trade or buildings. All the court-baron rolls were de- stroyed on this occasion, in consequence of which, all the copy- holders of the corporation are become freeholders. About the middle of the last century, the commerce of this place received a fresh impulse. The entrance to the haven, which is on the south side of the town, was subject to be choked up, till an act of parliament was obtained for repairing and im- proving it. Accordingly, one pier was erected on the north side of the port in 1749, and another on the south in 1752. The es- tablishment of the Free British Fishery, in 1750, also contributed greatly to the prosperity of the town, where two docks were con- structed, and various buildings erected for the making and tanning of nets, and for the depositing of stores. As the beach at Southwold partakes of the advantages enjoyed by other towns on this coast for sea-bathing, it has of late years derived' some benefit from the strangers who resort thither during the summer season for that purpose, and for whose accommodation two conve- nient machines are kept in the town. The first chapel here was probably built in the reign of King John, by the prior and monks of Thetford, who, in right of their cell at Wangford, were patrons of the church of Rissemere, or Reydon, to which Southwold was only a hamlet, and to which the inhabitants of this town were still obliged to resort in order to 6, receive SUFFOLK. 340 receive the sacraments, as also for the performance of the Inar- riage and fnneral ceremonies, and divine service on particular festivals. This chapel was destroyed hy fire about 220 years after its erection. Tiie present edifice dedicated to St. Edmund is sup- posed to have been commenced soon after the destiuction of the old one. The exterior was apparently fiuiyhed about 1460, as the legacies after that time are chiefly for the inside work. Thiss second chapel was made parochial, and in 1751, being* endowed with 4001. given by the governors of Queen Anne's bounty, and the like sum raised by public contributions, it was separated from Reydon, and made a distinct curacy, to wiiicli Lord Rous, as pa- tron of Rey don, has the nomination. The total lenglh of this fine fabric is 143 feet 6 inches, and[ the width 56 feet 2 inches. It has two aisles, which are sepa- rated from the nave by seven arches, and six pillars of elegant workmanship. The tower steeple, about 100 feet in height, is a fine piece of architecture, beautified with freestone intermixed with flint of various colours. The porch, erected about thirty years after the church, is highly ornamented ; over the entrance is a vacant niche, which probably contained the statue of the pa- tron saint, and it is decorated in various parts with Gothic let- ters, similar to those of the inscription upon the arch over the, great west window of the tower : sat edmund. ora. p. nobis, signifying Sancte Edmunde, ora pro nobis. Every letter is adorned with a crown placed over it, and the whole is considered an excellent performance. The north door has a niche on either side, with a figure in each, resembling an angel with prodigious wings, in a kind of pslpit, and his hands joined as if in the atti- tude of prayer. The pillars supporting these niches rise from grotesque heads. The mouldings between the receding arches of all the doors, are ornamented with foliage, flowers, grotesque heads, and figures; as is also the fillet that runs round the body of the church, above the windows. At each corner of the east end of the chancel, is a low hexagonal tower, with battlements,' 846 SUFFOLK. battlements, some of which are still decorated with ornamental crosses. The interior of this edifice still indicates that it was yet more highly ornamented than the exterior. It contained several images ; and the carved work of tiie rood-loft, and seats of the magistrates, now somewhat defaced, originally bore a great re- semblance to those in Henry the Seventh's chapel, at Westmin- ster. Every pew in the church was likewise decorated with re- presentations of birds, beasts, satyrs, or human figures, which have partaken of the same usage, except a few on the north side of the north aisle, and others concealed by the folding doors opening into the chancel. The ceiling of the latter is hand- somely painted, as is likewise that over the screen in the nave. " On one side,'* says Gardner, " angels seemingly express much joy, witli part of the song of St. Nicetas, Te Deum Laudamus, &c. On the other, answering thereto, is the historical represent- ation of Zacharias's prophecy, Benedictus D'ns, &c. The fronts of the magistrates' seats are adorned with gildings and paintings. The skreen has in the north aisle, the emblematical figures of the blessed Trinity in a Triangle ; next Gawbriel; after that the hier- archy, Arkangelus, Potestates, Dominationes, Cherebyn, Sera- fyn. Thrones, Principatus, Virtntes, Angelus : in the south aisle, Barush Pha, Ose Pha, Naum Pha, Jeremias Pha, He- lyas Pha, Moyses Pha, Daniel Pha, Amos Pha, Isaias Pha, Jonas Pha, Ezekias Pha. In the middle are the twelve apostles, on the north side six, and as many on the south. Under them are four impressions of the angel, lion, ox, and eagle, represent- ing Ezekiel's vision of the four cherubim and evangelists. Here blind zeal, ignorant superstition, and obstinate bigotry, with united force wrought their spite, by defacing, not only angels, apostles, and propliets, but likewise extending their malice, by breaking all the historical faces in the painted windows, and in committing sacrilege by robbing the grave-stones of the brass- plates, which bore monumental inscriptions to the memory of the t dead. Suffolk. 347 dead, and erasing others; whence we may conclude, that the paintint^s on the ceilings would have had no more favour shewn them, if they had been as easily come at.'** Though Southwold contains many good houses, it has no other building, except perhaps the Guildhall, worthy of being parti- cularized. On the cliffs are two batteries, one of which is a re- gular fortification, with a good parapet, and six guns ; the other has but two. On a hill called Eye-clifF, and several others situ- ated near it, are to be seen the vestiges of an ancient encamp- ment, and where the ground has not been broken up, are tokens of circular tents, vulgarly denominated fairy-hills. Gardner con- jectures that this may have been a camp of the Danes, when they invaded the country in lOIO.f It has been remarked, that at this town in particular, as at all the places on this coast, the swallows commonly first land, on their arrival in England, and hence also they take their depar- ture, on their return to warmer climates. " I was at this place about the heginning of October," says the author of a tour through Great Britain,! " and lodging in a house that looked in- to the church-yard, I observed in the evening an unusual multi- tude of swallows, sitting on the leads of the church, and cover- ing the tops of several houses round about. This led me to en- quire what was the meaning of such a prodigious number of swal- lows sitting there. I was answered, that this was the season when the swallows, their food failing here, begin to leave us, and return to the country, wherever it be, from whence they came ; and that this being the nearest land to the opposite coast, and the wind contrary, they were waiting for a gale, and might be said to he wind-bound. This was more evident to me, when in the morn- ing I found the wind had come about to the north-west in the night, and there was not one swallow to be seen. This passing and repassing of swallows is observed no where so much as on this eastern coast, namely from above Hai-wich to Winterton-ness in Norfolk. We know nothing of them any farther north ; the passage of * Gardner's Dunwich, p. 203, & 204. f Ibid. p. 189, % Vol. I. p. 189. 348 SUFFOLK, »f the sea being, as I suppose, too broad from Flamborough Head, and the shore of Holderness in Yorkshire." SouthieoidBay, commonly called Sole Bay, is celebrated as^ the theatre of a most obstinate and sanguinary naval engagement, Tsbich took place in 1672, between the combined fleet of Eng- land and France, on one side, and that of the Dutch on the other. The former consisted of 101 sail, thirty-five of which wereFrenclij carrying 6018 guns, and 34,530 men. In this bay they were lying on the 28th of May, when the Dutch fleet, composed of ninety-one men of war, fifty-four fire ships, and twenty-three tenders, commanded by the famous De Ruyter, bore down upon them so unexpectedly, that many of the ships were obliged to cut their cables, that they might get out more expeditiously, and range themselves in order of battle. Bankert, who commanded the van of the Dutch, commenced the attack on the white squa- dron, under the French Admiral Count d* Etrees. The latter re- ceived them with some appearance of courage, but soon sheered ofl", in consequence, as it is generally believed, of secret orders from his master not to expose his ships too much, but to leave the English and Dutch to eflect their mutual destruction. In the mean time Dt Ruyter made a furious attack on the Duke of York and the centre squadron, while Van Ghent engaged the blue, under the Earl of Sandwich. The duke, after an obstinate conflict of several hours with the Dutch commander, was obliged to shift his flag from the disa])led state of his ship. The Earl of Sandwich, in the Royal James, of 100 guns, maintained a most unequal conflict with Van Ghent's division. He was first attacked by the Great Holland, commanded by Captain Braakel, and a fire-ship. Braakel, though of inferior force, yet depending on the assistance of his countrymen, who had the advantage of the wind, grappled the Royal James, and the earl being ill sup- ported by the rest of his squadron, was almost entirely surrounded by the enemy. Van Ghent was soon killed, and his ship, being much disabled, sheered ofl'. Another Dutch man of war, and three fire-ships were sunk, and at length the earl succeeded in dis- SUFFOLK. 349 disengaging himself from Braakel's ship, after being grappled with her an hour and a half, and reducing her to a mere wreck ; the captain liimself being wounded, and two-thirds of his men killed. The earl Imd now with unexampled intrepidity defended him- self for five hours, but disdaining to retreat, anotiier Dutch fire ship approached under cover of the enemy's smoke, and boarded the Royal James t)n the quarter. The greater part of her crew liad already fallen, and her hull was so pierced witli shot, that it was impossible to carry her off. In tliis condition, the earl begged his Captain Sir Richard Haddock, and all his servants to get into %hr, boat, and save themselves, which they did: but some of the sailors resolutely refusing to quit their commander, remained on board, and endeavoured, but in vain, to extinguish the flames. The ship blew up about noon, off Easton Ne^, and they thus perished together. Van Ghent's division, thrown into confusion by the death of their admiral, and the furious attack of part of the earl's squadron, which arrived, but too late, to his assistance, was obliged to re- treat, and withdrew for some time from the engagement. This afforded Sir Joseph Jordan, who had now succeeded to the com- mand of the blue squadron, an opportunity of uniting with the red, in order to assist the Duke of York, who, being deserted by the French, had suffered considerably from the powerful attacks of the enemy's two divisions under De Ruyter and Bankert. la this conflict Cornelius Evertzen, Admiral of Zealand, was killed, and De Ruyter himself was wounded, and narrowly escaped being burned by the English fire-ships. His ship was at length se completely disabled, that she was obliged to be towed out of the line ; and it was with great difficulty that she afterwards reached home. Van Ghent's squadron having by this time rallied, bore down to the relief of their commanders, and thus saved them from destruction. Towards night great havoc was made among the Dutch fire-ships, five or six of which were destroyed by one Eng- lish man of war. The battle continued till nine at night, whea the S50 SUFFOLK. the Dutch vessels being dreadfully shattered, were obliged to re* treat, and the English having suffered in an equal degree, were in no condition to pursue them. In this sanguinary contest the Dutcli lost only three ships of war, one of which was burned, another sunk, and a third taken. Their loss in men is supposed to have been very great, as the publication of it was forbidden by tbe States. Considering the disparity of force after tlie defection of the French, it cannot ap- pear surprising, that our fleet should have suffered still more severely. Two English ships were burned, three sunk, and one taken; and about 2000 men were killed and wounded. Among tlie former were rear admiral Sir Fretcheville HoUis, in the Cam- bridge ; Captain Digby, of the Henry ; Captain Percy, of the St. George; Captain Waterworth, of the Anne; Sir John Fox, of the Prince; Captain Harman, of the Triumph; Lord Maidstone, Sir Philip Cartwright, Sir Charles Harbord, and many other persons of distinction. But the fate of the gallant Earl of Sandwich was particularly regretted. The day before the engagement, while the fleet was riding in the Bay, the earl, apprehensive of being surprised by the Dutch, had advised that it should weigh anchor, and get out to sea. The Duke of York, however, not only rejected this advice, but even told the earl that it was the result of fear, which is supposed by some to have made so deep an impression on the mind of the noble admiral, as to ren- der him careless of life. Agreeably to this idea, it is related, that when his ship was on fire, the earl retired to his cabin, whither he was followed by his captain. Sir Richard Haddock, who, finding him with a handkerchief before his eyes, informed him of his danger, to which he replied, " he saw how things went, and was resolved to perish with the ship.'' This is evi- dently a different account of the circumstance related by Camp- bell, who observes, that " he might have been relieved in his distress by Vice-Admiral Sir Joseph Jordan, if that gentleman had not been more solicitous about assisting the duke. When, therefore, he saw liim sail by, heedless of the condition in which he SUFFOLK. 351 lie lay, he said to those ahout him ; * There is nothing left for ws now but to defend the ship to the last man and those that knew him readily understood, that, by the last man, he meant himself." This representation certainly places the matter in a very different li^^ht; and though it is evident, that the earl might have escaped with the captain and others, yet the charac- ter which he uniformly exhibited, does not justify the idea, that he would wantonly sacrifice a life so useful to his country. The certificate of his funeral preserved among the archives of the Heralds' College, has been adduced to corroborate a contrary opi- nion. It is there stated, that *' he staid in his ship till the last, when he was forced to put himself to the mercy of the sea, in which he perished." His body was taken up a few days after- wards, by one of the king's ketches, and being known by the George which he had on, was carried to Harwich, whence it was removed, and solemnly interred in Westminster Abbey. The French, notwithstanding the little share they had in the engagement, lost two ships, one of which was burned, and the other sunk ; and among the killed was their rear-admiral, M. de la Rabiniere. Benacre was, in the 15th and 16th century, the lordship and demesne of the noble family of Dacres. It is now the property of Sir Thomas Gooch, Bart, who resides in the spacious mansion, called Benacre Hull. In 1786, one of the workmen employed in making a new turnpike-road at this place, struck his pick-axe against a stone bottle, containing upwards of nine hundred pieces of silver coin, i*i general in good preservation ; but none older than the time of Vespasian. They were all about the size of a sixpence, nine of them weighing an ounce. Near seven hundred were purchased by Sir Thomas Gooch ; others were bought by different persons, and the remainder sold to a Jew, who retailed them at a low price in the neighbourhood. liLiTiiBURGH, situated on the river Blith, gives name to this feundied, and though now a mean village^ was formerly a flourish- ing 352 SUFFOLK. ing- place. Its otigin is uncertain, but it is very plausibly con- jectured to be of high antiquity, several urns and Roman coins having been discovered here. It was once the residence of mer- chants, and much frequented on account of its trade, especially the fishery, which it possessed before the river was choked up. Here was the jail for the division of Beccles ; and in this town the sessions for that division were formerly held. It had also a weekly market, and two annual fairs, one of which it still re- tains, on the 5th of April, but the market had been disused an tecedent to the birth of the oldest inhabitants living in 1754. After the suppression of tlie priory of Blithburgh, the town fell to decay, and co?itinued gradually to decline till 1679, when it sustained a loss by fire, to the computed amount of 18031. on which some of the inhabitants being unable, and others through the failure of trade, not thinking it worth while to rebuild their houses, settled elsewhere ; and thus the place was reducd to poverty. In 1801, it contained 54 houses, inhabited by 310 per- sons. The church, a curious building, and of considerable antiquity^ is 127 feet in length, and fifty -four feet two inches wide. The: windows are very numerous, and weie once extremely beautiful, as the remains of the painted glass which adorned them seem to indi- cate. This edifice now presents a spectacle that cannot fail to ex- cite the indignation of every admirer of antiquities. It has been highly ornamented both within and without. Externally the beautifut tracery of the windows has been removed, or perhaps destroyed, by the hand of time, and its place has been supplied with unsightly masses of brick, in one or two instances entirely •urrounded with glass. The chasms in tlie painted glass of these windows have in like manner been supplied with brick and mor- tar. Internally the fine carved work has been covered with a coat of wiiite-wash, and the carvings on the roof, consisting of angels bearing shields, on which are painted the arms of various benefactors to the church, are in such a decayed condition as to be continually falling. Upon the ceiling of the church was for- merly SUFl-OLK. mcrly the sculptured figure of a man, iu a sitting attitude, of which botli Kirby * and Gardner f have given a representation ; and round it a label, with this inscription : Orate pro aiabzJohne Masin et Katcrinc uxoris eiu. This figure, as also that upon the chancel, mentioned by the same writers, and conjectured by Gardner to be intended for King Henry VI. :|: has been re- moved, and together with the fragments of the tracery taken from the windows, thrown into a promiscuous heap in the church-yard. The porch is still decorated with grotesque heads, and at each corner stands an angel with expanded wings. Upon the chancel, not far from the foundation, are ele- ven antique letters with a crown above each, resembling in every respect those over one of the windows of Southwold church ; and, doubtless, originally forming an inscription of a similar im- port. This fabric, from the architecture, does not appear to be so ancient as some have imagined. Several letters and emblemati- cal figures upon it corresponding with others at Southwold, Walberswick, and Covehithe churches, would encourage the in- ference that it is coeval with those structures whose foundation was not antecedent to the fifteenth century. The chancel was probably built after 1442, when John Greyse, by will, left twenty marks towards rebuilding it, in words which shew jthat it was not then begun. Several other bequests towards it occur down to the year 1473, at which time, or soon after, it was most likely finished. The similarity of the workmanship of the chancel to that of the church warrants the conclusion, that it cannot have been of much later erection. The tower, which formerly had a spire, is of inferior workmanship to the church and chancel, and Vol. XVI. 2 A there- * Histor. Acc. ofTwelve Prints, p. 5^5. t Hislor. Acc. of Dunwich, &c. p. 122. ^ A writer in tht Gtnlhman's Magazine ior bcplember 1808, p, 776, under the signiiturc ot D. Davis, says that this figure wns intended for a re.present«i' tion of the Trinity. SUFFOLK. therefore thought to be much older ; but it was probably repaired and covered with lead when tlie church was rebuilt. There was a chapel at the east end of the south aisle dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, and another at the end of the north aisle dedicated to her mother, St. Anne. By old wills, it also appears, that, prior to the Reformation, this church contained a great'num- ber of images, as that of the Holy Trinity on the north side of the high altar, the usual place for the principal image, or that of the saint to whom the church was dedicated ; the images of St. Mary and St. Anne, in their chapels, where they probably had altars likewise ; the images of St. Sigismund, St Erasmus, and St. Katherine ; and perhaps others, at least in the painted glass of the windows; for Robert Pinne, in his will dated 1457, ordered his executors to glaze a window on the north side of the church, and to paint it with the history of St. Andrew. By letters patent, dated in the 30th year of Henry VI. licence was given to John Hopton, Esq. to found and endow a chantry at Blithburgh, to the honour of St. Margaret the Virgin, by the ap- pellation oi Hopton*s Chantry, for one chaplain to celebrate mass for the welfare of the founders and benefactors while living, and after their decease for the health of their souls ; but it is uncertain whether it was actually founded or not, as no mention is made of it at the dissolution. At the east end of the north aisle, is shewn a tomb, said to be that of Anna, King of the East Angles, and in the chancel another for his son Firminus, who both fell in battle with Penda, King of Mercia, in 654, and were first interred in this place, whence their remains were afterwards removed to St. Edmund's Bury. Gardner conjectures, that the latter monument may be the tomb of Sir John Hopton, and that the former might have been erected before the rebuilding of the church, for one of the Swillington*s, lords of Blithburgli. He farther observes, that near tlie south porch is a black marble stone, narrower at one en4 than at the other, that seems to have been carved on the side with a moulding:. SUFFOLK. 355 a moulding, and raised in the middle, atid which might perhaps have been the covering of King Anna. The upper stone of the tomb, which common report assigns to that monarch, has been broken into three pieces, the middle one of which is lost, and the interior now serves as a receptacle for filth and dirt. Upon the altar monument, in the chancel, have been raised two or three clumsy square columns of brick, which has occasioned the remark, that the person whom it covers, what- ever he might have been in his life-time, is now unquestionably a firm supporter of the church. In the front of two pews, near the latter tomb, are small figures, eighteen in number, representing the Apostles and other charac-* ters of Scripture ; and at the west end of the middle aisle is the figure of a man, which used to strike time on a bell, now cracked, in the same manner as those at St. Dunstan's, in London. Stow gives, in his annals, an account of a terrible thun4er- storm, which happened here on Sunday, the 4th of August, 1577, during divine service, when the lightning did great damage to the church, struck down upwards of twenty people, " who were found grovelling half an hour after." Of these a man and a boy were dead, and the others scorched. Blithburgh Register far- ther mentions, that the spire part of the steeple was thrown down, and the standing remains greatly rent and torn by the tempest, which took its course to Bungay, where it did much mis- chief. Not far from the church are some remains overgrown with ivy, of a small priory of Black Canons, or Prsemonstrantenses. The revenues of the church of Blithburgh being given by King Henry I. to the abbot and convent of St. Osith, in Essex, they probably founded this priory soon afterwards, as a daughter-house, but not as a cell to that abbey, according to the assertion of most writers. The revenues of this priory were not only valued separately from those of the abbey, but the prior and convent of Blithburgh pre- sented to their own livings, and seemed in all other respects an independent body, except that the abbot and convent of St. Osith 2 A 2 nominated 356 SUFFOLK nominated the prior. Weever makes Henry I. the founder of thi* house, and Richard Beiiuvcvs,' Bishop of London, so great a be- nefactor, as to be estt^emed a co-founder. In this, however, he seems to be mistaken, for if it had been founded by the king, the patronage of tlie priory wouhl have been in the crown, which it manifestly was not; and if the bishop had been so great a benefactor, some notice woukl have been taken of the circum- stance, either by Godwyn, Wharton, or Newcourt, who wrote Ids life ; and who all mention his founding the Abbey of St. Osith. The lords of the hundred of Blithing seem much more likely to have been its principal benefactors, for upon every vacancy they presented the person nominated by the abbot and convent of St. Osith as prior of Blithburgh, to the Bishop of Norwich, to be instituted into that office. In 152&, Cardinal Wolsey obtained a bull for suppressing this, among other small religious houses, and applying its revenues towards the endowment of his college at Ipswich, provided th** king should grant his consent ; but by some; means or other his design was frustrated as to this house, which continued till the general suppression, 26 Henry VIII. when it contairted no more than five religious, and its annual revenues were valued at 481. 8s. lOd. In the 30th year of the same reign, the site of it, with ©ther possessions of the priory, was granted to Sir Arthur Hopton, Lord of the Manor. Tanner says, that Sir Richard Gipps, in his Snfldk Collections, speaks of a register of this pri- ory in Gresham College Library. On the north side of the main street also stood another religious edifice, called Holy Rood chapel, some remains of which weri- standing, when Gardner wrote f . To the south-east of Blithburgh formerly grew West W^ood, which, in process of time, was converted into a park, and received the name of the Grove. Here stodd the mansion-house of the lorck. * Note lo Blilhburgli, in his Kolit. Monast, t Hist, of Danic. p. 130. SUFFOLK. 357 lords of Uie manor. The ancient hall havhig, as is conjectured, from various relics found on the -spot, been destroyed by fire, the present edifice, called Westwood Lodge, commandiuju^ a pleasant sea view, was erected about the middle of the 17th cen- tury, by John Brooke, Esq. From the Brookes it descended to the family of Blois, and is how the property of Sir Charles Blois, Bart, but in the occupation of Mr. Howlelt, whose farm here, consisting of 3000 acres, is pronounced by Mr. Yonnij, to be without exception the finest in the county.^ The manor of Bramfield formerly constituted part of the en- dowment of the college of Mettingham, built by order of John do Norwich, who lived in the reign of Edward III. At the disso- lution it was granted to Thomas Denney, but has long been vest- ed in the recently ennobled family of Rous, of Henham. In the chancel of the parish cliurch is an elegant monument erected to the memory of Arthur, third son of the celebrated lawyer Sir Edward Coke ; and on the pavement are many black marble stones, for the two ancient families of Rabbet and Nelson. The estate of the former is now vested in Reginald Rabbet, wlio resides in Bramjield. Hall, a fine old mansion, situated near the church. About a mile distant was another old seat, which for- merly belonged to Thomas Neale, Esq. but was afterwards con- verted into a farm-house. That gentleman, by Jus will, directed an alms-house to be built and endowed here, for foiir single per- sons, wlio have each a room, and about a rood of laud ; and one of them receives an additional allowance of three pounds per an- num, for teaching six poor children to read. The widow of Mr. Neale, who after his death married John Fowle, Esq. left an es- tate at Metfield, of the yearly value of about ten pounds, to keep these films-houses in repair, and for the instruction of six more children. Bull-camp, originally Bald-camp, which signifies a bold fight- ing hand to hand, is thought to have received its appellation from the obstinate engagement in 654, between the Mercians and East 2 A 3 Angles, * Agiic. of Suft'. p. 13. 358 SUFFOLK. Angles, in which the latter were totally defeated, with the loss of their king Anna, and his eldest son Firniinus. This conjec- ture is strengthened by a tradition current in the neighborhood, that the unfortunate monarch was killed in Bullcamp forest, or Wood, as well as by the proximity of Blithburgh, the place of his first interment to the field of battle. On a rising ground in this parish, . stands the house of industry for the hundred of Blithing, incorporated in 1764. The sum borrowed for the erection of this edifice was 12,0001. half of which was paid off in 1780, and the remainder in 1791. At the first incorporation of the hundred, containing forty-six parishes, the annual average of the poors'- rates was not above one shilling in the pound, and this rate was diminished on the payment of half the debt in 1780. The number of poor in the house amounts to about 250 in summer, and 300 in winter. They are employed in manufactures of woollen and linen for the use of the house, as also in making all their own shoes, stockings, and clothes. Li- nen is made here up to the value of three shillings and six-pence a yard. CovEHiTHE was anciently the estate of a family named Cove. In 1308, John de Cove, and Eve his wife, had a charter of free warren in their lands here, and in 1328 obtained the grant of a fair at this place. It was once a considemble fishing town, and had a noble church which has been suflTered to fall to ruin, the south aisle only being preserved and inclosed for divine service. Covehithe was the birth place of John Bale, a writer of the 16th century, author of a work of considerable labour and eru- dition, intituled De Scriptoribus Britannicis. He was born in 1495, and after having been educated at Jesus College, Cam- bridge, became a Carmelite friar at Norwich. Having embraced the doctrines of the Reformation, he was exposed to the per- secution of the Catholic clergy, against whom he was protected by Cromwell,Earl of Essex. On the death of that statesman he was obliged to take refuge in the Netherlands, where he remained till the accession of Edward VI. by whom he was advanced to the bishopric SOFFOLK. bishopric of Ossory in Ireland. This preferment he enjoyed but a short time : on the king's death he was again obliged to leave his country, and resided in Switzerland during Queen Mary's reign. Returning to England, soon after Elizabeth ascended the throne, he obtained a prebend in the cathedral of Canterbury, but could never recover his bishopric. He died in November 1563. At Daksham is Darsham Hall, a seat of Lord Rous. Easton Bavent, though now almost entirely washed away by the ocean, seems formerly to have been a place of some con- sequence. In the reign of Edward I. it was the lordship of Tho- mas de Bavent, one of whose descendants, in the 4th Edward III. obtained a grant for a weekly market here, and a yearly fair, on the eve, day, and morrow of the feast of St. Nicholas. Besides the parish church, which was standing in 1638, it had a chapel dedicated to St. Margaret. In this parish was the promontory known by the name of Eas- ton-ness, the extensio, or E^ox'n of the ancient geographers, and which, before it was overwhelmed by the ocean, was the eastern- most point of the English coast. FoRDLEY. The church of this village has long been in ruins. It stood in the same church-yard with Middleton church, and so near to the latter, that in 1620 complaint was made to the bishop of Norwich, that when service did not begin and end at both churches exactly at the same time, the bells and steeple of one disturbed the congregation of the other. To remedy this incon- venience, the bishop directed that the same minister should serve both, and officiate in them alternately. It was probably for this reason that Fordley church, which was but a small building, was suffered to go to decay. At Henham is the elegant mansion, and extensive park, of Lord Rous, whose family has resided at this place near three hun- dred years. In 1660, John Rous, Esq. was created a baronet ; and in 1796 the present proprietor of Henham was elevated to the peerage by the title of Baron Roui of Dennington. The house is of modern erection, having been built after the destruc- 360 SUFFOLK. lion of the old mansion by fire, in May 1773; the loss on which occasion was estimated at 30,0001. HuNTiNGFiELD was, for a considerable time after the Norman conquest, the estate and residence of an eminent family of that name, one of whom founded Mendliam priory in Stephen's reign. It afterwards descended to the de la Poles, Earls of Suffolk, and, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, was the property of Henry, Lord Hunsdon. It was next the estate of that great oracle of the law. Sir Edward Coke, by wbose descendant, the Earl of Leicester, it was sold to Sir Joshua Vanneck, father of the present proprietor, who, in 1796, was created Baron Huntingfield of Heveningham. Heveningham Hall, the magnificent residence of this noble- man, is justly considered one of the finest seats in the county. It is of modern erection, having been begun about the year 1778 by the late Sir Gerard Vaimeck, the elder brother and predeces* sor of the present owner, from tiie designs of Sir Robert Taylor ; but finished by Mr. James Wyatt. The west end, erected by the latter, is in a much more tasteful style than the other parts of the edifice. The front, about two hundred feet in length, is adorned with Corinthian columns, and otlierwise chastely orna- mented. The whole building is covered with a composition which has the appearance of very white firee-stpne. »Seated on a rising ground, this mansion appears to great advantage from various parts of the extensive park, which abounds in fine plantations,, and is diversified by a noble piece of water in front of the house. The avenue that conducts to it from the j)orter's lodge is of great length and uncommon beauty. The interior of thi$ superb edifice, is embellished by an extremely valuable collection of pictures, chiefly of the Dutch and Fiendish magtevs. At the old mansion, when in the possession of Lord Hunsdon, Queen Elizabeth is said to have been entertained by that noble- man, and to have enjoyed the pleasures of the chase in a kind of rural majesty. The approach to it was over an arm of the river Blithe, which waters the park, and through three square courts. A gallery was continued the whole length of the building, and opening SUFFOLK. 361 *pehmg upon a balcony over the porch, gave an air of grandeur, with some variety to tlie front. The great hall was built round six straight, massy oaks, which originally upheld the roof as they grew : upon these, the foresters and yeomen of tlie guard used to hang their nets, cross-bows, hunting-poles, and otlior implements of the chase. In latter years, the roots being decayed, the shafts were sawn off at the bottom, and supported either by irre- gular logs of wood, or by masonry ; and part of tlie long gal- lery, where the queen and her attendants used to divert them- selves, was converted into a cheese-chamber. Elizabeth is report- ed to have been much pleased with the retirement of this park, filled with tall and massy timber trees, but particularly with an oak which ever afterwards bore the appellation of the Queen's Oak. It stood about two bow-shots from the old romantic hall, and at the height of seven feet from the ground measured near eleven yards in circumference. To judge from the condition of other trees of the same species, whose ages are supposed to be pretty accurately ascertained from historical circumstances, this venerable monarch of the forest could not be less than five or six hundred years old. Tradition records, that Elizabeth, li'om this favourite tree, shot a buck with her own hand. By a person who examined the queen's oak about twenty or thirty years ago, its state at that time is thus described : — " It is still in some degree of vigour, though most of its boughs are broken ofT, and those which remain are approaching to a total decay, as well as its vast trunk. The principal arm, * now bald with dry antiquity,' shoots up to a great height above the leafage, and being hollow, and truncated at top, with several cracks, resembling loop-holes, through which the light shines into its cavity, it gives us an idea of the winding stair-case in a lofty Gothic tower, which, detacii- ed from the ruins of some venerable pile, hangs tottering to its fall, and affects the mind of the beholder after the same manner by its greatness and subliniily."* The present noble proprietor of Heveningham has ornamented the wliole country round his splendid residence with plantations 362 SUFFOLK. of oaks, beeches, chesnuts, and other timber, "which, as the soil is particularly favorable, will, at no very distant period, prove a treasure to the public as well as to his own family. liEisTON is remarkable for the rains of an abbey of Praemonstra- tensian canons, dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. The original house, placed about a mile nearer to the sea than the present ruins, was built and endowed about the year 1 182 by Ranulph de Glanville, who gave to it the manor of Leiston, conferred on him by Henry 11. and also certain churches, which he had before given to the canons of the priory founded by him at Butley, and which they resigned in favour of this monastery. The situation of this first house being found both unwholesome and inconvenient, Robert de Uflbrd, Earl of Suffolk, about the year 1363, built an abbey on the site of the ruins that yet exist. This edifice was destroyed by fire before 1389; but being rebuilt, it continued to flourish till the general dissolution, when it contained fifteen monks, and its annual revenues were, according to Weever*s observation, far un- der-rated at 1811. 17s. 1 Id. The old house, however, was not to- tally abandoned, some monks remaining in it, according to Tan- ner, till the suppression, and legacies being, as he says, left to Our Lady of the Old Abbey, in wills preserved in the office of the archdeacon of Suffolk, so late as 1511 and 1515. Under A. D. 1331 in Chronicon Butley, is the following passage which corro- borates this statement : " John Grene, relinquishing his abbacie by choice, was consecrated an anchorite at the chapel of St. Ma- ry, in the old monastery near the sea." Gi-eat part of the church, several subterraneous chapels, and various offices of tlie monastery are still standing, and applied to the purposes of barns and granaries. The length of the church was about 56 yards ; and the breadth of the middle aisle, seven yards. It appears to have been a handsome structure, decorated with ornaments, formed by an intermixture of black squared flints and freestone. In the walls of the church and other buildings are many bricks of a form different from tliose used at present, being much thinner in proportion to their length and breadth. Near the SUFFOLK. 363 llie west end is a small tower entirely of brick, probably erected about the time of Henry VII. some of the ornaments of which appear to have been formed in moulds. The interior seems to have been extremely plain and without ornaments, and the columns yet remaining are very massive. In the memory of persons yet living, a vast extent of the neighboring- land was inclosed with walls^ probably those which surrounded the grounds belonging to this establishment, but they have been demolished for the sake of the materials. These ruins belong to the Hon. Joshua Vanneck, son of Lord Huntingfield, who resides near the spot, and they are at present occupied by Mr. Jessop. Reydon, a village bordering westward on Southwold, was for- merly a place of importance, and had a market and a park. The hall in the latter was taken down in 1684. The church, an or- dinaiy edifice of one aisle, appears to be of great antiquity. It is dedicated to St. Margaret, and was the mother church to South- wold. This place had also a chapel, which is supposed to have stood about a mile eastward of the churcli, on a spot still deno- minated the Chapel Piece. Here too, on a branch of the Blith, called Wood's End creek, are some vestiges of a wharf, which probably fell to decay in the time of King Henry III. in conse- quence of the rising prosperity of the neighboring town of South- wold. On the same branch of the river, about a mile and a half above the new quay, built in 1737 by Sir John Playters, stood Wolsey Bridge, converted, in 1747, by Sir John Rous, Bart, into a sluice for draining the low lands above it, which were before sub* ject to be overflowed by high tides. Respecting the origin of this bridge, tradition reports, that Cardinal Wolsey, wlien a lad, assisting his father, a butcher, to drive cattle irom these parts to Ipswic^i, and having observed on the different distances of crossing, and making the circuit of the creek to Blithburgh, declared, that if ever his purse were adequate to his mind, he would accommo- date travellers with the shortest passage. Accordingly, in pro- cess of time he was as good as his word, making causeways to and S64 SUFFOLK. and from the channel, over which he erected a bridge that after- wards bore the name of the founder.* RuMBUftGH is a place of no note except for a Benedictine mo- nastery, founded soon after the Norman Conquest by Stephen, Earl of Brittany, and given as a cell to the abbey of St. Mary at York. At the general suppression it was granted to Cardinal Wolsey.f The remains of this edifice have been converted into a farm-house, which belongs to Mr. Jessop of Leiston Abbey. At SiBTON was also a monastic establishment of the Cistercian ©rder, founded about the year 1150, by William de Casineto, or Cheney, and dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. This house was so amply endowed that its revenues were valued at 2501. 15s. 7|d. per annum, and were granted by the abbot and convent themselves to Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, Anthony Rouse, Esq. and Nicholas Hare, Gent, in 1536. TiiORiNGTON was formerly the lordship and demesne of Wal- ter de Norwich, and afterwards of the Uffords and the Cokes. Alexander Bence, Esq. to wliose family it for sometime belonged, fixed his residence at the Hall, wliiclt is now the seat of George Golding, Esq. Walberswick, commonly called Walderswick, now a hamlel of Blithburgh, a place of great antiquity, was once a consider- able and populous town. It carried on an extensive commerce both by land and sea, especially in fish ; having, in 1451, thirteen barks trading to Iceland, Ferro, and the North Seas, and twenty- two fishing boats employed oflT this coast. The alteration of the port which ruined the town of Dunwich, proved a source of in- creased prosperity to Walberswick, which continued to thrive till the middle of the sixteenth century, wlicn the alteration made in the established religion, proved higlily detrimental to this, as well as to many other towns on the coast, whose principal support was derived from the fishery. From that time this village began gradually to decline, and repeated and destructive conflagrations hastened^ -* Gardner's Diiiiwirh, &c. p. 257. t Di)g, by his brother. Dr. John Tan- ner, precentor of St. Asaph, and rector of Hadleigh, in Suffolk." It was in fact published in 1744', by his brother, tlie Ilcv. John Tanner, precentor of St. Asaph, and vicar of Lowestoft. The rector of Hadleigh was Dr. Thomas Tanaer, the bishop's only son. 380 SCFFOLK. more particularly evinced in the rebuilding of Kirkley church, in his purchasing the impropriation of Lowestoft for the benefit of his successors, and expending a large sum in the repair and embel- lishment of his church. He died December 22, 1759, aged 75 years. In the south aisle is interred Mr. Thomas Annot, who founded the grammar-school at Lowestoft. Here also are tombs of the Utbers, Ashbys, and Mighells, names distinguished in our naval ^listory^ and all of them natives of this town. Rear Admiral Utber, who took an active share in most of the hard-fought engagements with the Dutch, in the early part of the reign of Charles IL and died in 1669, is here buried, with his wife and two sons, both captains in the royal navy. John, the elder, commanded the Guernsey frigate, and fell in 1665, at the early age of twenty-two, in an attack on a Dutch fleet of mer- chant ships, in the port of Bergen, in Norway. The second son, Robert, died in 1699, aged 50. Against the south side of the aisle, above a large marble tomb, which covers the remains of Admiral Sir John Ashby, is a neat monument, with this inscription : Sacred to the memory of Sir John Ashby, Knight, Prgefect of the Courts of Sandgate. On whom for his unshaken fidelity and approved-of Valour in the engagement with the French at Bantree Bay, Where he gloriously fought for his King and Country, His Majesty conferred the honour of knighthood, lie afterwards gave many signal examples of his bravery and skilfulness in naval affairs. By which he obtained the post of Admiral and Commander in chief of the Royal Navy, and General of Marines. Adorned with these honours. He exchanged earthly glory for immortality, 12th July, 1693. The SUFFOLK. The principal naval operations in which Sir John Aslihy was engaged subsequently to the battle of Bantry Bay, were the en- gagements off Beachy Head, in 1689, and Cape la Hogue, in 1692. On the latter occasion, he commanded tlie blue squadron, and was sent after the victory, to attempt tlie destruction of part of the French fleet, which had taken refuge in the Port of St. Malo. This, however, he found impracticable, and though his conduct, in regard to this circumstance, was loudly censured by Eome, yet the gallant admiral found means to justify himself completely, when examined on the subject before the House of Commons. Sir John died at Portsmouth, and was there in- terred, but his body was afterwards removed to this his native place. A little to the west of Sir John Ashby's monument, is one to the memory of his nephew, James Mighells, Esq. vice-admiral and comptroller of the royal navy. The first enterprise in which this gentleman had an opportunity of signalizing himself was the capture and destruction of a French convoy, in Granville Bay on the coast of Normandy, in July 1704. In the following month he sustained a glorious part in the hard-fought, but indecisive engagement with the French fleet, off Malaga. About the middle of this action, in which he commanded the Monk of sixty g uns, and 365 men, the French admiral sent the Serieux of seventy guns to board him. Captain Mighells, however, gave the enemy such a warm reception, that she was obliged to sheer off, after three at- tempts, though her wounded men were each time replaced from the galleys. In 1711, he commanded the Hampton Court, under the orders of Sir John Jennings, in the Mediterranean, and in com- pany with some other English vessels, fell in with two French ships of fifty guns, one of which, the Thoulouse, struck, after an action of two hours, to Captain Mighells. The last active service which this officer performed, was as commander in chief of the naval part of the successful expedition against Vigo, in 1 719. He was appointed comptroller of the navy, in 1723, and died March 21, 1733, aged 69. A hand- 382 SUFFOLK. A handsome monument of white marble in this aisle, is inscribed to the memory of Captain Thomas Arnold, who served in the royal navy forty years, and died August 31, 1737, aged 58. The most remarkable trait in the professional life of Captain Arnold, was his conduct as first lieutenant of the Superbe, one of the ships detached by Sir George Byng, under Captain Walton, in pursuit of a division of the Spanish fleet, on the coast of Sicily. In the action which ensued'. Captain Master, in the Superbe, bore down upon the Spanish admiral's ship, the Royal Philip, of 74 guns, but being diffident about the most successful method of attacking the enemy, he consulted his first lieutenant, Mr. Ar- nold, who replied, that " as the eyes of the whole fleet were upon him, expecting the most vigorous efl^brts in the discharge of his duty in that critical moment, he advised him to board the Royal Philip immediately, sword in hand.'* This counsel was adopted, and Lieutenant Arnold putting himself at the head of the boarders, soon carried his antagonist ; but in this service he re- ceived so dangerous a wound in one hand and arm, as rendered them almost useless ever after In the vestry, the following lines inscribed on the tomb of Mr. Joseph Hudson, fourteen years minister of Lowestoft, who died in 1691, deserve notice for their quaintness: — Here Lie f- Your Pain Full Minister, Lament ; You Must Accaunt How You This Life Have Spent j Worthy Your Tears, He's Dead, His Work Is Done ; Live What He Taught You For His Glass Is Run. His • It is customary at Lowestoft to hang flags across the streets at weddings; and the colours of the Royal Philip, taken by Mr. Arnold, have frequently 'been used on these occasions. f The coupling of the singular noun witli the plural verb, is one of the pe- -culiarities in the language of the natives of this county. SUFFOLK. Ilis Soule's In Blisse, Tlie Dust His Body Takes, Thus Wee Lose All, While Heaven and Earth Part Slakes. But Patiently Await, He Shall Arise, By An Habeas Corpus, At The Last Assize. In this chnrch is also interred the late vicar, the Rev. Roberl Potter, F. R. S. and A. S. to whom the literary world is indebted for the best poetical versions that we possess of the three Greek Tragedians. His JEschylus appeared in 1777; Euripides ivL 1781, and Sophocles in 1788. Besides these laborious works, he published some performances of inferior importance. In 1789, he succeeded the Rev. Mr, Arrow, in the vicarage of Lowestoft, and about the same time was presented to a prebendal stall in the Cathedral of Norwich. He was found dead in his bed in October 1804, at the advanced age of 83. In the church-yard is the burial placie of the family of Barker, with an elegant pyramidal monument, erected pursuant to the will of John Barker, Esq. who left 5001. for that purpose, and the in- terest of 10001. three per cent Bank Annuities, to keep it in repair, and the overplus, if any, to be distributed among the poor of th^ parish. Mr. Barker was one of the elder brethren of the Trinity House, a governor of the London Assurance Company, vice- president of the Magdalen, and a director of Greenwich Hospital. He died at his house in MaUsel Street, London, November 1, 1787, aged 80 years, arid was interred here with great funeral pomp. He was a great benefactor to this his native town, hav* ing for many years before his decease caused not less than 2601. to be distributed annually among poor, infirm, sailors, their wi- dows and families, exclusively of many other liberal acts of bene* ficence. There is no church-rate in tliis parish, the profits arising from the lands belonging to the chtirch being amply sufficient for keep- ing 384 SUFFOLK, ing it in repair. These lands consist of sixty^seven acres, besides several tenements, the donor of which was unknown so early as the time of Edward VI. and together with 28| acres purchased with 601. left hy William French, by will, dated April 14, 1529, to buy free lands, for the use of the poor, are let by auction in the town-chamber every seven years, in the presence of the minister and churchwardens. On account of the distance of the church from the town, it was found necessary to erect places for public worship in a more con- venient situation. Accordingly Lowestoft had two chapels, both erected before the Reformation. One of these, called Good Cross Chapel, stood at the southern extremity of the town, but has long since been so completely destroyed by the sea, that no vestige of it now remains. The second, nearly in the middle of the town, on the west side of the High Street, being in a very ruinous con- dition, was taken down, and rebuilt, in 1698, by means of a sub- scription of the inhabitants. Contiguous to this chapel, is the Corn-cross, over which is the town-chamber, used not only for the transaction of the business of the town, but also as a school-room for the children belonging to Annolt's foundation. In 1698, when the chapel was rebuilt, this structure was put nearly into the state in which it at present appears. The market was at the same time re- moved from a large area, still known by the name of the Old Market, to that part of the High Street, contiguous to the edi- fice : but this situation being found inconvenient, it wa^ again re- moved, in 1703, to the spot where it still continues to be held. The original design of this cross was to provide a shelter for the farmers, when tliey brought their corn hither to market ; and for this purpose it was used, till 1768, when part of it was inclosed for a vestry to the chapel, and the remaining part now serves merely as a passage to that place of worship. The Grammar-school at Lowestoft was founded by Mr. Tho- mas Annott, merchant of this town. By indenture, bearing date the 10th of June, 1570, he settled lands in Wheatacre Burgh, 9 Norfolk, SUFFOLK. 385 Norfolk, for the payment of twenty marks, afterwards augment- ed by his heirs to sixteen pounds per annum " to maintain one honest and sufficient person, learned in the art and knowledge of grammar, and the Latin tong-ue, and other things incident and necessary belonging to the said art," who was to instruct forty boys born in Lowestoft ; if there should not be so many wanting to be taught, then the number to be made up from those resident in the town; but should it still be deficient, the number then to be completed with any from the half-hundreds of Mutford and Lothin^- land. The school-house for this foundation, was formerly in the Town-Close, adjoining to the east wall of the church-yard ; but this building being in a ruinous state, the Town Chamber was fitted up for a school room in 1674, and has been used for that purpose ever since. On the east side of the High Street stands the school -house, erected in 1788, in pursuance of the will of Mr. John Wilde, of Lowestoft, dated 22d July, 1735, who bequeathed an estate at Worlingham, and all his lands and tenements in this town, for the maintenance of a virtuous and learned schoolmaster to in- struct forty boys in Latin, writing, reading, and arithmetic. The minister and churchwardens are empowered to appoint this mas- ter, and also to remove him at their discretion. His salary is fixed at forty pounds by the testator, who directs any overplus, arising from the estates left by him, to be expended in such cha- ritable purposes as the minister and church-wardens shall think fit. On an elevated point of land near the edge of the cliff, on which Lowestoft is situated, and a little to the north of the town, stands the Upper Light-house, a circular tower of brick and stone, about forty feet high, and twenty in diameter. It was erected in 1676 ; and the upper part, for about two-thirds of the circumference was originally sashed, that the coal fire continually kept burning within, might be visible in the night at sea. In 1778, this part was found to be so much decayed, that the breth- ren of the Trinity House resolved to take the top wholly off, and Vol. XIV. 2 C to 386 SUFFOLK. to erect one of the newly invented cylinders in its stead. On the beacli below the cliff stands another light-house of timber, which hangs in a frame of the same materials, and is constructed in such a manner as to admit of its being removed. By keeping Miis building covered by the upper light-house, vessels coming into, or going out of, Lowestoft roads are directed to the Stanford chan- nel, which lies between what are denominated the Holme and Barnard sands. This channel is about a quarter of a mile broad, and three quarters of a mile from the shore; and though it has existed from time immemorial nearly on the same spot as at pre- sent, yet from the effects of currents, storms, and perhaps other causes beyond the reach of human investigation, it is so fluctu- ating that it never continues long in the same situation. Of late years its motion has been northerly, as is evident from the several changes that ihave been made in the position of the lower light- house, to bring it in a line with the upper light-house, and the channel. The principal part of the commerce of Lowestoft is derived from the herring fishery. The season commences about the mid- dle of September, and lasts till about the middle of November. The boats stand out to sea, to the distance of about thirteen leagues north-east of Lowestoft, in order to meet the shoals of herrings coming from the north. Having reached the fishing ground, in the evening, the proper time for fishing, they shoot out their nets, extending about 2,200 yards in length and eight in depth ; which by means of small casks, called bowls, fastened on one side, are made to swim in a position perpendicular to the sur- face of the water. If the quantity of fish, caught in one night "iimounts to no more than a few thousands, they are salted, and the vessels, if they meet with no better success, continue on the fishing ground two or three niglits longer, salting the fish as they are caught. Sometimes wiien the quantity taken is very small, tliey will continue on the ground a week or more, but in general the fish are landed every two or three days, and sometimes oftener when they are very successful. As soon as the herrings are brouifht t WJJ-FOLK. 3d7 oil shore, they are carried to the fish-howaes, where they are saU- ed, and laid on the floors in heaps ahout two feet deep. After they have remained in this state about fifty liours, they ate yal into haskets, and plunged into water to wash the salt from them. Woodeii spits, about four feet long, arc then run througli the gills of as many of the fish as they will hold, and fixed at proper dis- tances in the upper part of the house, as high as the top of the roof. A number of small wood fires, according to the size of tlve place, are now kindled upon the floor, and by the smoke ascend- ing from Uiem, the herrings are cured. After the fish have hung in this manner about seven days, the fires are extinguished for two days, that the oil and fat may drip from them. The fires are then rekindled, and after two more such drippings, they ar^ kept continually burning until the fish are completely cured. This operation requires a longer or a shorter time, according as they are designed for exportation, or for home consumption. The herrings, having hung a proper time, are packed in barrels con*- tainiug 800 or 1000 each, and shipped for market. The number of boats annually employed at Lowestoft in this fishery for many yeais, previously to 1 781, was about thirty-three, and the quantity of herrings caught averaged twenty-one lasts, (each containing 10,000 herrings) to a boat. After that time, owing to the war with the Dutch and other powers, the number of boats engaged in the herring fishery rather diminished ; but th^ bounties granted by an act passed in 1786, for the encouragement of the fisheries, gave new vigour to this valuable branch of indus- try, so that only three years afterwards, the boats fitted out by this town amounted to forty-four. Each of these boats, which are built here, carries about forty tons, and requires eleven mei4^ In 18|02 something more than thirty boats gained 30,0001. the price of the fish cured, a larger sum tlian had ever before been made In one season, and, the following year, they earned in six weeks 10,0001. by mackarel, exclusively of the other fish caught during that period. Within the last fifty years the demand foi- cured herrings for the foreign markets has considerably declined, while 2 0 2 the d88 SUFFOLK. the home consumption has proportionably increased. The snpe- rior quality of the Lowestoft herrings is evident from their fetch- ing a higher price than those of any other place. The London fishmongers have long been accustomed 1o give ten shillings a last more for Lowestoft herrings than for those of Yarmouth, let the price of the latter be what it will. Another fishery carried on by the boats of Lowestoft, is for mackarel : but the principal advantage derived from it by the owners, consists in its furnishing employment for the fishermen, and keeping them at liome for the herring season ; as the emolu- ments received fiom it are very inadequate to the expense of fitting out the vessels, and the dangers to which they are liable. The mackarel fishery begins at the end of May, and continues till the end of June. The number of boats annually employed in it from this town is about twenty-three. Lowestoft formerly fitted out about thirty boats annually for the North Sea and Iceland fishery, which, however, gradually de- clined, till, about the middle of last century, the ill success of the adventurers caused it to be entirely relinquished. On the denes a little to the north of the town, may still be seen a trench where stood the blubber-coppers, in which the livers of the fish brought home from this voyage used to be boiled. This town being part of the ancient demesne of the crown, obtained at different times various privileges, many of which, however, are now become useless and forgotten. The only one perhaps of which the inhabitants at present avail themselves, is the exemption from serving on juries, either at the quarter-sessions or assizes; though the others, if duly investigated, might not %fen at the present day be found altogether unprofitable, Lowestoft has experienced a large proportion of tlie calamities of pestilence, fire, and tempest. It has been several times visit- ed by the plague, but the greatest mortality which it ever expe- rienced was in 1603, when 280 persons were buried in this parish in the space of five months, and in the whole year 316. The town has also, on different occasions, sustained heavy losses by conflagrations ; SUFFOLK. 389 conflagrations ; but none proved more destructive than that which happened on the lOth of March, 1645, and consumed property in dwelling-houses, fish-houses, and goods, to the value of 10,2971. Off this town was fought on tlieSd June, 1665, one of the most sanguinary naval engagements that took place during the war with the Dutch under diaries H. The enemy^s fleet, composed of 102 men of war, and 17 yachts and fire-ships, had retreated to their own coast before the English force of 1 14 men of war, and 28 fire-ships commanded by the Duke of York. The States sent peremptory orders to Opdam, to put to sea, and fight at all events. The admiral having called a council of war, and finding that the general opinion concurred with his own for avoiding an action, said to his oflicers : " I am entirely of your sentiments, but here are my orders. To morrow my head shall be bound either with laurel or with cypress.'' He accordingly weighed anchor at day-break on the 3d of June, and in an hour discovered the Eng* lish fleet. The engagement began about three in the morning off* Lowestoft, and continued with great fury, but without any remark' able advantage to either side till noon, when the Earl of Sand" wich forcing through the centre of the Dutch line, threw their fleet into such confusion that they never recovered from it. The Duke of York in the Royal Charles of 80 guns was, for some hours, closely engaged with Opdam in the Endracht of the same force. The Earl of Falmouth, liord Muskerry, Mr. Boyle, toge-» ther with some of the duke's attendants, were killed by his side and the prince himself was wounded in the hand by a splinter of Mr. Boyle's skull. In the midst of the action, the Dutch admi- ral blew up, and out of 500 men, among whom were a great num^ her of volunteers of the most distinguished families iu Holland, only five were saved. This fatal accident increased the confusion of the enemy, so that soon afterwards four of their ships ran fon\ of each other, and were destroyed by a fire-ship ; and three more shortly after shared the same fate. The Orange of 74 guns being disabled and taken, was likewise burnt. The Dutch vice- admiral Cortenaer received a shot in the thigh, of which he imme- 2 C 3 diutely 390 SUFFOLK. diately expired, and vice-admiral Stellingwert having also fallen, their ships bore out of the line, without striking their flags ; and being followed by several others, the confusion soon became gene- ral. Van Tromp, however, with his division, gallantly conti- nued the conflict till seven in the evening, when finding himself deserted by the rest of the fleet, he was likewise obliged to retire. In this protracted engagement, eighteen of the enemy^s ships were taken, and fourteen sunk or burnt : they had upwards of 4000 men.killed, and 2000, among w hom were sixteen captains, taken prisoners. The English lost only one ship of 46 guns : their killed amounted to 250, and their wounded did not exceed 350. Among Ihe former, were Admirals Sampson and Lawson, and captains, the Earls of Marlborough and Rutland. Auiong the latter, was the Hon. James Howard,the youngest son of the Earl of Berkshire, who being carried on shore, expired on the 7th of June, and was, as we have seen, interred in Lowestoft church. In addition to the celebrated naval commanders of this town, of whom some account has already been given, may be mentioned Sir Thomas Allen, and Sir Andrew Leake, Sir Thomas Allen, who during CromwelPs protectorate •was stedfastly attached to the royal cause, was soon after the restoration appointed to a command in the Royal Navy. In 1664 he was sent as commander-in-chief into the Mediterranean, where the following spring, on tiie commencement of the war with the Dutch, he fell in with their Smyrna fleet, consisting of forty ves- sels, some of which were very strong, under convoy of four ships of war. After an obstinate engagement, in wiiich the Dutch com- mander fell. Sir Thomas, who had only eight ships, made prize of four of the richest of the enemy- s fleet. In the obstinate engage^ ments off Lowestoft, in 1665, and near the coast of Flanders and the North Foreland, in 1666, Sir Thomas bore a distinguished part. On the conclusion of the first Dutch war, he was again sent into the Mediterranean to chastise the Algerines, and after his re- turn, was, in consideration of the numerous services, created abaronet in 1669. About the same time b<^ purchased the estate of So- raerley SUFFOLK. 391 merley Hall, and removing thither from Lowestoft, passed tlie rest of his life in retirement. Andrew Leake after several progressive steps in the navy, was appointed to the command of a ship, dnring the war which was terminated by the peace of Ryswick in 1696. In 1700 he was sent with a small sqnadron to Newfoundland for tlio protec- tion of the fishery. Oii tiie re-commencement of hostilities witli France and Spain, he was removed to the Torbay of 80 gmus, and particularly signalized himself in the brilliant attack o!i V'igo; where his ship, which broke the boom formed across the harbonr, was reduced nearly to a wreck. The Torbay having' become so entangled among the cables with which this boom was strengthened, that she could not be extricated, the enemy sent a fire-ship to complete her destruction : in which attempt they would doubtless have succeeded, had not a large quantity of snuff on board assisted to extinguish the flames at the moment of the explosion. The exertions of Captain I ,eake on this occa- sion procured him the honour of knighthood. In 1705 Sir An- drew, in the Grafton of 70 guns, contributed to the attack on Gibraltar. In the engagement off Malaga in the same year^ he led the van of the division under the commander-in-chief. Sir George Rooke ; but received a wound, of which he expir- ed during the action. After it had been dressed, he wrapped a table-cloth round his body, and though life was fast eb- bing, he placed himself in his elbow-chair, in which he desired to be again carried upon the quarter-deck, where he undauntedly sat and partook of the glories of the day until he breathed his last. From the remarkable comeliness of his person. Sir Andrew is said .to have been distinguished by the appellation of Queen Anne's handsome captain.* Thomas Nash, an author of considerable npiitation at the latter end of the 16th century, was also a native of Lowestoft. 2C4 His • It is worthy of remark that tlie naval heroes of Lowestoft, Sir Thomas Allen, Admiral Utber, Sir John Ashby, Admiral Migliells, and Sir Aurlrcv* Leake, were all related either by consaDguiniiy or marriage. 392 SUFFOLK. His family was descended from the Naslies of Herefordshire, and he was educated at Cambridge. He wrote much both in prose and verse, especially of the satirical kind. Three of his pieces are preserved in the British Museum ; the king's library contains twenty-four, and the Marquis of Stafford's seven. Among his productions, that in which he refers most to his native place, is his " Lenten Stuffe, or the Praise of the Red Herring, Jitte of all Clearkes of all Noblemen's Kitchens to he read, and not unnecessary hy all serving-men that have short board wages to he remembered, 1599. 4to. Swinden observes that the facetious Nash in his Lenten Stuffe, designed nothing more than a joke upon our staple, red herrings ; and being a Lowestoft man, the en- mity between that town and Yarmouth led him to attempt that by humour, which more sober reason could not accomplish. He died about the year 1600, aged forty-two. The other places in this hundred worthy of notice are : Belton, remarkable as the burial-place of the late John Ives, Esq. F. R. S. and F. A. S.* whose remains are deposited in the ftimily tomb in the church of this parish. On a mural monument erected to his memory, is this inscription, composed by the late Rev, E. Thomas of Feversham : — M. S. ViRi Lectjssimi JoHANNis Ives Armigeri Regime ac ANTiQUARiiii; London S. S. Nec non Provinci^ Suffolciensis Fecialis Inter Primos eruditi bonarum artivm Fautoris Qui in Priscorum Temporum Monumentis IlLUSTRANDIS MULTUM (NEC infeliciter) INSUDAVERAT. NoNO MENsis Jan. A. D. MDCCLXXVI ^TAT XXVL Maximo cum desiderio om nium Mcerentium • For a brief account of this gentleman, see Beauties, Vol. XI. Norfolk, p. S65. SUFFOLK. 393 MCERENTIUM PR-«CIPUE PARENTUM JOHANNIS EX MARliE IVES, IMMATURE EHEU ABREPTUS. Burgh Castle is a relic pf the Roman empire in Britain, con- cerning which our antiquaries are divided in opinion. One party, with Camden at their head, insist that it is the Garianonum of the Romans ; whereas Sir Henry Spelman and some others, place that station at Caistor, near Yarmouth. Both produce plausi- ble reasons in support of their opinions, but probability certainly seems to favor the pretensions of Burgh Castle; though Caistor is allowed to have been a summer camp, or station, dependent on this fortress. Mr. Ives, in his ample and ingenious remarks on Ihis castle, contends for the identity of this place with the Roman Garianonum. He fixes the era of its erection in the reign of the Emperor Clau- dius, and conjectures tliat it was built by Publius O&torius Sca- pula, who conquered the Iceni, or people inhabiting the counties of Suffolk, Norfolk, Cambridge, and Huntingdon. We are in- formed in the Notitia Imperii, that the troops who garrisoned this station were a body of cavalry, called the Stablesian horse, under tlie command of a Prcupositus, who was particularly styled Gariennonensis ; and it is computed by Mr. King,* that Burgh castle, even its present mutilated state, would contain at least one cohort and a half, with their allies. The remains of this fortress stand on an eminence near the conflux of the rivers Yare and Waveney. From the great quantities of oyster-shells, and also many iron rings, and pieces of anchors, belonging to ships, dug up near the walls, it is in- ferred that the aestuary of the Yare once washed its ramparts. f These * Muniment. Antiq. p. 116. t This aestuary, prior to the lonuation of'the sand on which Yarmouth is fituated, is said to have occupied the wliole of the flat country between Caistor an'J Burgh Castie. Tn support of this tra(iilion, Mr. Ives gives in his Remark$ 394 SUFFOLK. These remains form three sides of a parallelogram, having the angles rounded off. Whether the west side, next the river, was ever bounded by a wall seems doubtful. The water might then have approached nearer to the fortress, and, with the steep bank, have been deemed a sufficient security. The nortli aniT south sides are nearly equal in length, each measuring 107 yards, just half as much as the east side, which is 214. The height throughout is fourteen, and the thickness nine feet. The area is four acres two roods, or, including the walls, five acres, two roods, and twenty perches. The wall is of grout-work, faced on the outside with Roman ))ricks, interlayed in separale courses between layers of cut flint. It is buttressed on the east by four round towers, or rather, solid cylinders, about fourteen feet in diameter ; one on the south, and another on the north, banded likewise with Roman bricks. The towers seem to have been built after the walls, to which they are not joined, excepting at the summit. At the top of each is a round hole, two feet deep, and as many in diameter, designed, a» it is supposed, for the admission of light temporary watch- towers. At the south-west comer is a circular mount, which Mr. Ives took for the Praetorium. Mr. King, however, though he admits that the Praetorium was unquestionably placed on the west side, observes, that this mount may be suspected, from its form and si- tuation, to have been rather an additional work in Saxon or Nor- man Rfmnrks, a copy of an ancient map, purporting to represent t})e mouth of the Hierus, or Yare, as it appeared in the year lUOO. The original, as he in- forms us, remains in a chest called the Hutch, belonging to the corporation of Varmouth, and was copied from one still more ancient, which appeared to be in a perishing condition, about the time of Qticen Elizabeth. He also introduces an extract from a manuscript in his possession, dated 15G0, which ^Ays, " that all the wholle levell of the niarshes and fennes, which now are bf^twixte the towne ol Yermouili and the cit^? of Korwiche, were then all an arme of the sea, entcringe within the lande by the mouthc of Hierus; and thii was abonie the yere of our Saviour MXL, and loiige before^" Iteviarks, se- cond Edit. p. 7. SUFFOLK, 395 inan times, raised in imitation of those circular monnts which we meet with in so many fortresses of those ages.* Near this mount stood the south tower, which being- undermined after some heavy rains, by the force of the water running down the vallum that suiTounds it, has fallen on one side near its original situation, but remains entire. The north tower, having experienced a similar accident, has receded at the top about six feet from the wall, and drawn down part of it. The fall of the south tower discovered this singularity, that the immediate foundation was covered with oak planks, about two inches thick ; over these was laid a bed of very coarse mortar, on which were irregularly spread the first stones of the fabric. The principal entrance was on the east side. The field contiguous to the eastern wall, is supposed to have been tlie common burial place of the garrison, from the great number of Roman urns that have been found in it, and the num- berless fragments with which it is every where bestrewed. These urns are not remarkable either for the workmanship or the mate- rials ; being made of coarse blue clay, brought from the neigh- boring village of Bradwell, ill-formed, brittle, and porous. " Iik the year 1756,'' says Mr. Ives,f " a space of five yards square was opened in this field, and about two feet below the surface, a great many fragments of urns were discovered, which appeared to have been broken by the ploughs and carts passing over them. These, and the oyster shells, bones of cattle, burnt coals, and other remains found with them, plainly discovered this to have been the ustrina of the garrison. One of these urns, when the pieces were united, held more than a peck and a half of corn_, and had a large thick stone operculum on tiie top of it ; within was a considerable quantity of bones and ashes, several fair pieces of Constantine, and the head of a Roman spear." " In pulling down part of the hill whicli formed tlie Praetorium,'' continues the same writer, " urns and ashes were discovered in great abundance. Among them was a stratum of wheat, pure and unmixed with earth, * Muniment. Antiq. II. 53. i Remarks, second Edit. p. 34. 396 SUFFOLK. earth, the whole of which appeared like that brought from Her- culaneum, quite black, as if it had been burned. A great part of it resembled a coarse powder ; but the granulated form of the othei{, plainly shewed what it had originally been. In the same place, and at the same time, was found a cochleare, or Roman spoon ; it was of silver and had a long handle very sharp at the point, that being used to pick fish out of the shell." Rings, keys, buckles, fibulae, and other instruments, are frequently found in this neighborhood, and also coins of silver and copper, but mostly of the Lower Empire. A little to the north of this castle, are the remains of a monas- tery, built by Furseus, an Irish monk, who under the patronage of Sigebert, the first Christian king of the East Angles, and Felix, the first bishop of Dunwich, collected a company of reli- gious persons under the monastic rule, and placed tliem at Burgh, then called Cnobersburg, after the name of a Saxon chief, who had formerly resided there. On the death of Sigebert, Furseus c[uitted his monastery at Burgh, and retired to France, after which tlie establishment gradually dwindled to nothing. The authors of Magna Britannia observe, that, according to a tradition current here, this monastery, after its desertion by the monks, was inha- bited by Jews, and add, that an old way leading to the en- trance, called the Jews* way, seems to give it some colour of truth.* The Domesday survey informs us, that in the time of Edward the Confessor,- Stigand, Bishop of Norwich, held Burgh by soc- cage. Under William the Conqueror, Radulph Balistarius was lord of this manor. It is nevertheless certain, that this village was always a demesne of the crown, being held by the tenure of serjeantry by Roger de Burgh, Ralph his son, and Gilbert de Weseham ; at whose decease, being surrendered into the hands of King Henry III. he granted it, with all its appurtenances, to the priory of Bromeliolme, in Norfolk, to be held by the same tenure. To this religious house the castle and manor belonged till the dissolution * Mag. Brit. V. 229. SUFFOLK. dissolution 26 Henry VIII. when they reverted to the crown, in which they remained till they were sold by Queen Mary to Wil- liani Roberts, town-ch rk of Yartnouth. The churcli of this parish, dedicated to St. Peter, is a small building, consisting- of a nave, chancel, and round tower. The advowson of it was given by Roger de Burgh to the priory of St. Olave, at Herringfleet, and King Henry III. confirmed this dona- tion. The prior presented to the rectory, and had a reserved pension of four marks out of it, which is still paid to the pro- prietor of St. Olave's. Since the dissolution of the priory, the patronage has belonged to the crown. CoRTON, a village about a mile to the north of Lowestoft, is situated on a high cliff, commanding an extensive prospect of the sea. Tlie parish, comprehending upwards of a thousand acres, is a vicarage, the impropriation of wliich belonged to Leiston ab- bey before the dissolution, when it was granted to Charles Bran- don, Duke of Suffolk. The body of the church is now dilapidated, the chancel being the only part appropriated to divine service. The ruins yet remaining, prove that the building was of considera- ble dimensions, and the tower, which is still perfect, attests its original elegance. There is every reason to believe that Corton was formerly much larger than at present. In addition to the parish church there was another, or at least a chapel of ease, some remains of which arc still visible at a place called the Gate : and the old foundations of houses discovered in different parts of the parish tend to confirm the conjecture. Some centuries since there was contiguous to Corton, a parish called Newton, of which scarcely any other vestiges remain, than a stone which supported a cross, denominated Newton Cross, and a small piece of ground, known by the name of Newton Green; almost every other part of this parish having been swallowed up by the sea. Flixton is supposed to have derived its name from Felix, the first bishop of the East Angles. The church of this parish, now consolidated consolidated with Blundeston, is in ruins, its roof having been blown off in the great storm, Nov. 27, 1703. The walls have been chiefly demolished for the repair of stables, and what re- mains of this building is applied to the purpose of a farmer's out-houses, while the font, split asunder, supports the two ends of a hog- trough. GoRLEsTON, with the adjacent hamlet of South Town, i$ remarkable for nothing but the ruins of an ancient building supposed by Camden to have been a religious house. They are in fact the remains of the church of St. Nicholas, of South Town, which with the hamlet of West-Town, nearer to Yarmouth Bridge, are in old writings called Little Yar- mouth. A late writer * says, that the parochial jurisdictions of Gorle- ston and South Town are partly marked by an ancient monastic remain ; some ruins of the chapel, some of the apartments of its chiefs, the exterior offices and wall fences of which establish- ment may yet be traced to a considerable extent; but it seems probable that he has fallen into the same mistake as Camden, in regard to the church of South Town. GuNTON. This parish lies to the north of Lowestoft, from which it is separated only by a bank, thrown up in 1770, by the proprietor of Gunton, to inclose part of the common, which had till then lain waste. It contains only two or three houses, one of ■which, the Hall, is a spacious and elegant building, surrounded with beautiful woods and plantations. It was considerably enlarged and improved, in 1746, by Hewling Lewson, Esq. In 1762, this estate, together with the small parish of Fishley, in Norfolk, was purchased by Admiral Sir Charles Saunders, for 1d,OoOI. It is now the residence of Montague, Esq. The church is a small plain structure, and was rebuilt in 1700 as appears frqm the following inscription on a small mural monu- ment in the north-west corner: Near * Baler, in his linperial Guide, Vol. II. p. 59. 39^ Near this place is interred chaiu.es bovce, "Whw being dcud \et speaketh ; Having in his Iii'e-tiu>e Rebuilt tliis clinrcli at his own expence. In the year 1700. A sure and lasting proof ofhis sincere piety. In the chancel i« an inscription on marble to the memorj' of Charles Colby, Esq. who entered early in life into his majesty's naval service, and commanded vessels pf almost every rate, with grtiat credit to himself, and advantage to his country. In 1756 he was appointed commissioner of the navy at Gibraltar, and at the conclusion of peace in 1763 returned to England, and spent the remainder of his days in peaceful retirement in the mansion of his friend. Sir Charles Saunders, at Guntoo, where he tlicd 28 December 1771, aged 70 years. At Herringfleet was a priory of Black canons, founded by Roger Fitz-Osbert, of Somerley, the last of that family, in ho- nour of the Virgin Mary and St. Olave, the king and martyr, in tiie beginning of the reign of Henry III. At the dissolution it contained five or six religious, and its revenues were valued at 491. lis. 7d. The site of this house, and great part of its pos- sessions, were granted, 38 Henry VIII. to Henry Jernegan, Esq. patron. The remains of this edifice were chiefly taken down in 1784 ; but some parts of it are still standing. Near this priory there was, in the reign of Edward I. a ferry, for the conveyance of passengers across the river Waveney. It had been kept many years before by one Sireck, a fisherman, who received for his trouble bread, herrings, and other things of that kind, to the value of twenty shillings a year. The descendants of this man sold the ferry to Robert de Ludham, at which time its value was increased to fifteen pounds per annum. It was held by his brother Roger in 1296, when Edward I. granted permission to build a bridge over the river at this ferry : but it does not ap- pear 400 SUFFOLK. pear that much was done till the reign of Henry VII. when Lady Hobart, relict of Sir James Hobart, attorney-general and privy- counsellor to that king, was at the expense of erecting the old bridge, which in 1770 was replaced by the present structure. About the year 1:230, the Jernegans of Horham, became the possessors of the Somerley and Herringfleet estates by marriage with the heiress of the Fitz-Osberts, and made Somerley the principal seat of the family. The site of the pi iory, together with almost the whole of this parish, passed, about the year 1740, from the Bacon family to Hill Mussendon, Esq. This gentleman left it to his elder bro- ther, who had assumed tlie name of Loathes, and by whose suc- cessors it is still enjoyed. KiiiKLEY, being separated from Pakefield only by the high road, forms a considerable part of what is generally understood by the latter denomination. It is situated to the west of Pakefield, and on its north side lies the lake of Lothing, communicating with tlie sea by means of a small channel, called Kirkley Ham, which formerly had a sufficient depth of water to admit vessels of small draught. The principal support of this village, as well as that of Pakefield, arises from the fishery, which was once very considerable, but is now much declined. The church, dedicated to St. Peter, was for many years anterior to 1 749 in a dilapidated state, but the minister officiated in Pakefield church on one part of the Sunday, alternately with its own minister. In this man- ner both parishes were for a considerable time supplied, but at length they were again parted. After this separation the incum- bent of Kirkley, not only refused to perform divine service in Pakefield church any longer, but also to allow any thing to the minister of Pakefield for officiating in his stead, alledgiug tliat he could not be legally compelled. The Rev. Mr. Tanner, vicar of Lowestoft, and at that time commissary and official in the arch- deaconry of Suffolk, used all the mild and persuasive arguments in his power to prevail on the incumbent of Kirkley to make an allowance, but to no purpose. He therefore left him with this 9 threat. SUFFOLK. 401 threat, " If, Sir, you will not officiate in Pakefield church, I ^vill build you a church at Kirkley, and in that you shall offi- ciate.' Mr, Tanner was as good as his word, for, partly at his own expense, and partly with the contributions of others, he fitted up the present church at Kirkley, in which divine service has ever since been performed. The old church consisted of two aisles ; the north still conti- nues in ruins, and it is only the south aisle that constitutes the new church. The; tower steeple, about 72 feet high, is an excel- lent sea-mark, but is falling to decay. In clearing away the rub- bish from the ruins of the old church, several brass-plated stones were found ; but they are all disrobed, and laid under the pews of the new building. OuLTON is situated to the west of the parish of Lowestoft. The church is an ancient structure. The steeple, placed between the church and the chancel, contains five bells, and was formerly ornamented with a spire. The whole building was originally in the form of a cathedral, having two cross aisles or transepts. The south transept is in ruins : but the north still remains. This transept, together with a considerable estate in this parish, was the property of the Faslolfs, a family of considerable note, who resided here, and were great benefactors to the church, their arms being painted in many parts of the cieling. In the chancel^ on a large stone, are the effigies in brass of John Fastolf, and Ca- tharine his wife, with their feet resting on a greyhound, the arms of Fastolf at the corners, and this inscription : John Fastolf esquyer died 1445, and Kateren, his wyef, degliler of Bedingfeldc, 1478. In the windows are several pieces of painted glass, particularly in the west window on the north side, in which is a figure in robes, but without a head. The manor and estate of Oulton High House, which formerly belonged to the Bacon family, and afterwards to that of Fastolf, Hobart, Reeve, Heythusen, and Allen, is now become by pur- VoL. XIV. 2 D ehase 402 SUFFOLK. chase the property of the Blacknells : but the paramonntship, as also the presentation to the living, remains with the proprie- tor of Somerley. The half hundreds of Mutford and Lotliingland having been incorporated by act of Parliament in 1764 for the better relief of the poor, and the building of a house of industry for their habi- tation, one of those houses was in 1766 erected in this parish for that purpose, into which the poor belonging to the various pa- rishes of the two hundreds were soon afterwards removed. This edifice, erected on a frugal plan, cost about 30001. and will con- tain about 200 poor, who are employed in making nets for the herring-fishery, and in spinning woollen yarn. The number of parishes incorporated is twenty-four. Pakefield is a parish of considerable extent. Under this name is generally comprehended not only Pakefield properly so called, but also the adjoining parish of Kirkley ; and though to a common observer the two places seem to form but one village, yet they are in reality under difi'erent regulations in all the branches of parochial government. Pakefield is situated eastward of Kirk- ley, on the very summit of the cliffs that bound the German Ocean, which, dashing against their base, has frequently can'ied away large portions of these cliffs, together with the buildings which they supported. According to Ecton the church is dedicated to All Saints ; but from the ancient inscription on a small silver communion cup Pakefielde Sante Margaret, 1337, this appears to be erroneous. It consists of two aisles built nearly uniform ; the steeple, standing at the west end of the south aisle, contains five bells. This church was some years since repaired and beautified at the expense of the late rector, the Rev. Dr. Leman, who not only new laid the floor, erected a new pulpit and desk, and placed over the curious old font a handsome model of the tower and spire of Norwich cathedral, but also embellished it with other useful ornaments. The old pulpit was of very ancient workmanship; having on seve- ral parts of it the figure of a man in a devout attitude, and a label 8 issuing SUFFOLK. 403 issuing from liis moutli with this inscription : Misericordia Dei in ctcrnu cantaho. At the upper end of the south aisle, on a plain stone, with a brass plate, is the following inscription in old English characters : " Here lies Master Richard Folcard, formerly a rector of a mediety of this church to the south, who died on St. Martin's Day, in the year of our Lord one thousand four hundred. To whose soul be merciful, 0 God. Amen." In the north aisle, on a brass plate, representing a man and his wife, with eleven children, is another inscription in old Eng- lish characters, in memory of John Bowf, who died in 1417. In a barrow on Bloodmore-hill, near Pakefield, was found, in 1768, a skeleton, round whose neck hung a gold medal, and aa onyx set- in gold. The legend round the medal was D. N. T. AVITVS. On the obverse, a rude head helmeted, with a cross on the shoulder; on the reverse, VICTORIA AVGGG. exergue CONOB. and a rude figure of Victory. On the onyx was a maa standing by a horse, and holding the reins, with a hasta pura in his right hand, and a star on his helmet. SoMERLiTON, commonly called Somerley, is chiefly remarka- ble for a beautiful old seat called the Hall, of which Fuller re- marks that " it well deserved the name of Summerly, because it was always summer there, the walks and gardens being planted with perpetual greens." It was anciently the residence of the Fitz-Osberts, but afterwards became the property of the Jerne- gans by the marriage of Sir Walter Jernegan, of Horham, with Isabel^ sister of Roger Fitz-Osbert, the last of that family. At what time this estate passed from the Jernegans, or Jerninghams, we are not informed. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth it was the property of Sir Henry Jerningham, but about 1627 belonged to Sir Thomas Wentworth. By the Wentworth family it was sold, about 1669, to Admiral Sir Thomas Allen, whose son, dying a bachelor, bequeathed the Somerley estate, with its dependencies, to bis nephew, Richard Anguish, Esq. on condition of his assum- 2 D 2 ing 404 SUFFOLK. iiig the nam€ of Allan. This gentleman was created a baronet in 1699; but some years since the title became extinct. In Somerly church is a monument to the memory of Sir Ri- chard Jernegan, who is represented upon it cross-legged, in imita- tion of the knights Templars, with this inscription : Jesus Christ, both God and man. Save thy servant Jernegan. This Sir Richard was a gentleman of the privy chamber to King Henry VIII. The occasion of his receiving that appoint- ment is thus related by Stow : — Certain gentlemen of the privy chamber, who, through the king's lenity in bearing with their lewdness, forgetting themselves, and their duty towards his Grace, in being too familiar with him, not having due respect to his estate and degree, were removed by order taken from the council, unto whom the king had given authority to use their dis- cretions in that behalf; and then were four sad [grave] and ancient knights put into the king's privy chamber, whose names were. Sir Ricliard Wingfield, Sir Richard Jernegan, Sir Richard Wes- ton, and Sir William Kingston. END OF SUFFOLK. LIST 4 OF THE PRINCIPAL BOOKS, MAPS, AND VIEWS, THAT HAVE BEEN PUBLISHED IN Illustration of the Topography and A ntiquities of the COUNTY OF SUFFOLK, Suffolk is one of those English counties of which no General History on a satisfactory scale has yet made its appearance, and the printed information which we possess respecting it must, upon the whole, be considered as rather scanty. The first person who made collections for this county, with a view to publication, seems to have been the indefatigable Sir Simonds D'Ewes, whose papers are pre- served among the Harleian MSS. in the British Museum. Subse- quent collectors, as VVenyeve, Le Neve, Martin, Ashby, and others, tlesigned in their researches rather to gratify their particular taste than to inform or amuse the public ; whilst the unaccomplished intentions of Ives embraced only one single corner of the county. The his- tory and topography of Sutfolk projected and begun by Messrs. Davey and Jermyn, both residing in the county, will, it is understood, be so voluminous, that its appearance must necessarily be deferred to a very distant period. In 1732, 3, and 4, Mr. John Kirby, who had been a schoolmaster at Orford, and then occupied a mill at Wickham Market, took an actual survey of the whole county, and, iji 1735, published tiie result of his labours, in a small 12mo volume, under the title of " The Sii^olk Traveller or a Journey through Suffolk: in which is inserted the true distance of the roads from Ipswich to every mar- ket town in Suffolk, and the same from Bury St. Edmund's. Like- wise the distance in the roads from one village to another ; with notes of direction for travellers; as what churches and gentlemen's seats are passed by, and on which side of the road, and the distance they are at from either of the said towns : with a short historical ac- count of the antiquities of every market town, monasteries, castles, Szc, that were in former times, Ipswich, 1735." Mr. Kirby died at Ipswich, in December 1753, and in 1764, a new edition of his work was i)ublished by subscription, with this litle : — The Suffolk Traveller,''^ first published by Mr. John Kirby, of Wickham Market, who took an actual survey of the whole county , in the years 1732, 1733, and 1734. The second edition, with many alterations and large additions, by several hands. London, 1764. Svo. This volume, besides a folio njap of the county, contains en- 2 D 3 gravings 406 LIST OF BOOKS, &C. gravings of the principal roads in Suffolk, on four quarto plates ; and is the only distinct work that has hitlierto appeared on the topography of the county in general. Its agriculture has been ably illustrated by Arthur Young, Esq. (of whom as a native this county has just reason to be proud) in his " General View of the Agriculture of the County oj Suffolk ; drawn up for the Consideration of the Board of Agriculture, and Internal Im- provement. By the Secretary to the Board. Third Edition, London, 1804." 8vo. with a map, exhibiting the extent of the different soils of which the county is composed. In 1748, Mr. Joshua Kirby, son of the author of the Suffolk Travel- lery who was settled as a house-painter at Ipswich, emulating the ex- ample of ])is father, contributed to the illustration of his native county by publishing a set of twelve prints, accompanied by an octavo pamphlet, intituled : " Jn Historical Account of the Tzvelve Prints of Monasteries, Castles, ancient Churches, and Monuments, in the County of Suffolk, which were drawn by Joshua Kirby, Painter in Ipswich, and pub- lished by him, March 26, 1748. Ipswich. 1748." 36 pp. These prints were Clare Castle, Sudbury Priory, Bungay Castle, Christ's Hospital in Ipswich, St. James's and the Priory Church at Bury, Lavenham Cliurch, Blithburgh Church, Bungay Church, the Tombs of 1 homas Howard Duke of Norfolk, of Henry Fitzroy Duke of Richmond, and of Henry Howard, Earl of Surry, at Framlingham, and that of William Lord Bardolf at Dennington. In the pamphlet are introduced several additional engravings, illustrative of some of these subjects. The Journal of William Doivsing, the visitor appointed by the Parliament for demolishing the Ornaments of the churches of Suffolk, in 1643 and 1644," is a curious memorial of the misguided zeal of the puritanical reformers of that period. Some slight notices respecting certain portions of this county are comprehended in " Observations on several Parts of the Counties of Cambridge, Norfolk, Suffolk, and Essex. Also on several parts of North Wales, relative chiefly to Picturesque Beauty. In Two Tours, the former made in the year 1769 ; the latter in the year 1773. By William Gilpin, A. M. Prebendary of Salisbury, and Vicar of Boldre, in New Forest, near Lymington. Published by his trustees, for the benefit of his school at Boldre. London, 1809." 8vo. " A Description of the ancient and present State of the Town and Abbey of Bury St. Edmund's, in the County of Suffolk. Chiefly collected from ancient authors and MSS. The second edition, with corrections. Containing an account of the Monastery from its foun- dation to its dissolution ; with a list of the abbots and the several benefactors in the town. To which is likewise added, a list of the Post and Stage Coaches to and from Bury, with the distance of the several towns to which they go. Bury, 1771." 12mo. This edi- tion was revised by the Rev. Sir John Culhmi, and the third, under the superintendence of tlie Rev. George Ashby, appeared in 1782. *' An LIST OF BOOKS, &C. 407 " An Historical and Descriptive Account of St. Ednuincl's Bury, in the County of Suffolk: comprising Details of the Origin, Disso- lution, and Venerable Remains, of liie Abbey and other Places of Antiquity in that ancient Town. By Edmniid Gillingvvater, author of tiie History of Lowestoft, Sec." Hury, 1804. 12mo. This volume contains engravings of ihe Abbey Gate, Ihiins of the Abbey, St. James's Churcii, and the Angel Hill ; and displays greater industry in the collection ot materials, than judgment or skill in the arrangement of them. Illustration of the Monastic History and Antiquities of the Town and Abbeij of St. Edmund's Bury. By the Kev. Richard Yates, F. S. A. of Jesus College, Cambridge: Chaplain to his Ma- jesty's Royal Hospital, Chelsea, and rector of Ashen. With Views of the most considerable Monasterial Remains. By the Rev. William Yates of Sidney, Sussex College, Cambridge. 1805." 4to. The father of Mr. Yates was employed near forty years as gardener in the Abbey Grounds, and, thougli not a man of literary attainments, was nevertheless so interested by the ruins with which he was con- tinually surrounded as to devote all his leisure moments to the attempt to form a collection illustrative of their ancient and present state. The materials thus collected by him were digested and arranged by his son, and led to the composition of the above-mentioned work, which is to be extended to another volume ; but the old man did not jive to witness the publication of the first. The late Thomas Martin, of Palgrave, was an enthusiastic admirer of the Monastic Antiquities of Bury. He intended to write a his- tory of them, and was many years engaged in making collections for the purpose, but death prevented him from giving to the public the result of his inquiries. After passing through several hands, such of his papers as related to Bury were purchased by the late Mr. Gough, who generously permitted Mr.Yates to incorporate them with his work. Dr. Battely, Archdeacon of Canterbury, and a native of Bury, who died in 1708, published a small 4to. volume, in Latin, on the An^ tiquities of that town. Prefixed is a view of the Abbey Gate, exhi-' biting the towers which formerly stood at each corner, on the side next to the Angel Hill. " The Ifoefuland Lamentable Waste and Spoile done by a sud- daine Fire at St. Edmund's Bury, in Suffolk, on Monday the lOlh of April, 1608." 4to. A true Relation of the Arraignment of Eighteen Witches that were tried, convicted, and condemned, at the Sessions holden at St. ££ Aldborough. MAPS, PLANS, AND VIEWS.- " A New Map of the County of Suffolk, taken from the original Map, published by Mr. John Kirby, in 1736, who took an actual and accurate Survey of the whole county ; now republished (with correc- tions and additions). By John and William Kirby, sons of the Au thor, 1766, and engraved by Jonn Ryland. Dedicated to his Grace, the Duke of Grafton. With twelve views of remarkable places, the arms of nine noblemen, and 102 Baronets, Esquires, &c." The views accompanying this map, which is on a large scale, are : Burgh, Met- lingham, Framlingham, Orford, Bungay, and Wingfield Castles, Leiston Abbey, Butley Priory, Covehithe Church, Gateway to Bury Abbey, Blilhburgh Priory, and St. James's Church at Dunwich. The best and most correct map that has hitherto appeared of this county is that in six sheets <* from the surveys of Joseph Hodskinson of Arundel Street, Strand," published by Fadcn, 1783. A reduction 412 LIST OF BOOKS, &C. A reduction of Hodskinson's map in one sheet has also been publishecJ. Smaller maps of SutTolk have been given among the County Maps published by Smith and Gary, and also in the Atlas which accompanies this work. A nezv and accurate Plan of the ancient borough of St. Edmund's Bury, in the county of Suffolk, by Alexander Downings, was en- graved by Toms, and adorned with views of the Cross and Abbey Gate. Another Survey was published in 1747, by Thomas Warren, in two sheets, adorned with views of the S. front of the Hospital, the S. front of the market-cross, the E. front of the Grammar School ; the S. E. side of St. James's Church ; part of the Abbot's Palace, 1720; S. W. view of St. Mary's Church ; N. front of the Earl of Bristol's house; W. front of the Abbey Gate; N. front of the Grand Jury House. Of Ipswich a plan was published so far back as 1564. T have seen a copy of it in the possession of Mr. Raw of that town, but so much defaced that very little of it can be made out. ** The Borough or Corporation of Ipswich, in the County of Suffolk, actually surveyed and delineated, anno 1674, by John Ogilby, his Ma- jesty's Cosmographer, and exactly engraved by Thomas Stuart, anno 1688, a!)d are to be had at his house in Brook Street, Jpswich. With the S. E. prospect of Ipswich, faithfully and accurately performed, Gr. King Delineavit. Surveyed per Robertum Felgate generosum.'* This survey, which occupies nine sheets, is adorned with views of the churches of St. Margaret, St. Nicliolas, St. Mary Stoke, St. Elen, St. Stephen, St. Clement's, St. Mary Tower, St. Lawrence, St. Mary Elms, St. Mary Key, and St. Peter, and the houses of Esquire Gaudy and Lord Hereford. A smalier of Ipszvich, with a short historical account, is given in Grove's Dialogue in the Elysian Fields between IVolsey and Ximenes, Oxford, 1761." 8vo. and in the same work is also a plan of the streets through which the procession passed from Cardinal College to Our Lady of Ipswich. ** Map of the Tozvn of Ipswich, in which tlie Streets, Buildings, "Yards, &c. are drawn from an actual Survey, finished 1778, by Joseph Pennington, Land Surveyor. '' Messrs. Bucks' engraved, in 1741, Fiezvs of Bury^ S. Ipswich S. W. and in 1738, the Abbey Gate, Bury, and the castles of Fram- lingham, W. ' IVingfield, S. and Mettingham, N. A View of the Abbey Gate, Bury, by \V. Millicent, was engraved by E. Kirkhall, with this inscription : A View of the Gate-house be- longing to the Abbey in St. Edmund" s Bury, in Suffolk. It being un- certain when this was built, I shall leave it to the more learned to judge, whether before or alter Edward I.; the wall which inclosed the Abbey being built in his time." The " Angel Hill, in St. Edmund's Bury; with the Church of St. Mary and St. James, and the Abbey Gale; also a View of St. Ed- maud's Hill, Rushbrook, and Hardz^icke. J. Kendall del. P. S. Lamborn LIST OF BOOKS, &C. 413 Lamborn sc. 1774." This plate was re-engraved in a much neater and more accurate manner in 1777. View of the Interior of St. Maria's Church, Burijy^ designed by James Mathevv, and engraved by J. Baleman, 1808. A View of the Font in Worlinguorth Church, drawn by N. Revett, Esq. was engraved by Vertue, 1753. Heveningham HallXias been engraved by Heath. Grose,in his Antiquities, has given the following views in this coun- ty ; In Vol. V. All Saints' Church, Dunivich ; Alderton Hall ; Church Gate, St. James's Church, and Ruins of the Conventual Church, Bury; Arches near the East Gate, Bury ; Bliihburgh Priory; Burgh CiLstle ; Butley Priory ; Framlingham Castle ; Leystone Ab- bey ; St. Mattheivs, or fVest Gate, and Cardinal IVolsey's College^ Ipswich; Orford Castle and Chapel. Iti\o\.\\11. Clare Castle ; Town Hall, Ipswich; and IValton Castle. In Britton's Architectural Antiquities, are two Views, and a ground plan of Redgrave Hall; If est Stow Hall, Part XVI. Gifford's Hall, Stokeby Neyland, Part XV III. North Porch of ^t. Mary's church. Bury; Fiew of the Abbey gate, plan, and elevation of the north side of the same ; Details of tJie ivestern front. Part XXV. Plan and details of the Abbey gate-house ; Plan and details of St. James's Tower Gate-way, and Fiew of the same. Part XXVII I. In the Antiquarian and Topographical Cabinet, No. 46 is devoted to the illustration of the antiquities of Clare, and contains engravings of the Castle, three plates of the Priory, three plates of the Stone Font in the Church, and of an Ancient House in the town. In No. 50, of the same work, is a view of the curious stone Font in the church of Snape. *' Specimens of Gothic Ornaments, selected from the Parish Church of Lavenham, in Suifolk, in forty plates. London, 1796.'* royal 4to. A volume worthy of the fine fabric which it is designed to illustrate. INDEX INDEX TO THE COUNTY OF SUFFOLK. A Acton, j59. — — Place, ib. Agriculture, peculiarltes in the Suf- folk practice, 11 ; implements of,2t. Albemarle, Earl of, his agricultural improvements, 44. Albrede, John, his benefaction to Woodbridge church, 302, Aid, river, its course, 7 — 319. AJdborough, situation, 316 incroach- ments of the sea, corporation, re- cent improvements, S17 ; martello tower, sea-bathing, 318; river Aid, fisheries, population, 31 9; pease and coleworts found on the beach, S20. Alderton, church in ruins, 276. Aldham Common, near Hadleigh, in- scription there, 213. Allen, Admiral Sir Thomas, account of him, 380. Ampton, 172; alms-house, 173; Hall, 172. Arwerton, 224. Hall, 224, 225. Ashby, Admiral Sir John, his monu- ment at Lowestoft, 380 j account of him, 381. Ashby, Rev. George, his collections; 110. Ashfield, 181. Ash House, in Campsey, 306. Aungervyle, Richard de, account of liim, 107. B Babergli, hundred of, 147. Bacon, Helena, inscription on her, 217, 218. , Sir Nathaniel^ his monument at Culford, 183. , Sir Nicholas, his monument at Redgrave, 202. Bale, John, account of him, 358. Bardwell, 183. Baret, John,his monument at Bury,74. Barker, John, Esq.accountof hini,383. Barnardiston, 140. , a/iecdotes of the family of, 142, note; their monuments at Kedington, 142. Barnham, (Blackbourn hundred) tu- muli there, 183. Barnham, (Bosmere and Claydon) house of industry, church, 217,218. Barrow, 109; antiquities, eminent rectors, HO. Barsham^ 37 1. Barton, Great, 174. Battely, Dr. John, account of hira,109. Battisford, 218. Baylham, ib. Bealings, Great, 265. Beccles, churches, 367; town-hall, gaol, schools, common, 368. Beaufort, Thomas, Duke of Exeter, discovery of his remains at Bury, 84. Belton, Mr. Ives's monument there, 392. Benacrc, INDEX. Benacre, coins found there, ?»6i. Ilali, 351. Beiihall, tm. Lodge, 328. Berners, William, Esq. obelisk to his memory at VVo.jI version, 5i'2y. Bildestcui, population, nianul'acturcs, church, VM3. Biackbourn, hundred of, 181. Blith, river, its course, 7. Blithburgh, 351 ; its former import- ance ami dei.-ay, the church, o'■y'^ ; tomb of Anna, King of the Easl Angles, 354; priory, 355. Blitliing, hundred of, 333. Blundujore Hill, near PakcfieM, an- tiquities discovered there, 103. Bloomfield, Robert, anecdotes of his faraily, 186. Bohun, Edmund, account of, 366. Borlase,Dr. singular custom recorded by him, 123, note. Bosmere, lake of, 2, '217. Bosmere and Ciaydon, hundred of, 217. Boston of Bury, account of him, 105. Botesdale, chapel, grammar-school, 197. Bottold, John, inscription on him at Ipswich, 240. Box ford, 160. Boxtead, 161. Boyce, Charles, his monument at Gunton, 399. Boyse, John, account of him, 214. Bo^^ton, charitable foundation there, 276. Bradfield Combust, 174. Hall, the seat of Arthur Young, Esq. 175. , St. Clare and St. George, ib. Bramfieid, 357. Hall, ib. Bramford, uncommon tenure attached to its manor, 5^18. Brandon, population, rabbit-warrens, manufactory of gun-flints, noble fa- milies to whom it has given title, eminent native, 41. Bretienhain, conjectured by some to be the Combrttonium of Antoninus, 213. Bricet, priory, 218. Briglitwell, 265. liromfield, Edumnd. account of him, 1U5. \ Broome, 198; monuments in the church, 200. Hall, described, 199, 200. Broughton Hall, at Stonham Aspal, 2p. Brovvurigg, Ralph, account of him, 263. Bruisyard, chnntry, 328. Brundish chantry, 310. liuU-camp, engagement there between the Mercians and East Angles, 357 ; house ot Industry, 358. Dungay, church, 368 ; casile, 369 ; market-place, theatre, school, bath house, 370; trade, 371. Ikires, its church and monuments, 161. Burgh castle,the Roman Garianonum, 393; its present leniains, 394; an- tiquities discovered there, 395; monastery, 396 ; church, 397. Burnt Fen, in Lack ford hundred, im- provements there, 39. Bury, St. Edmund's, situation, 47; history of the town, 48 ; history of its ibbey, 56; Grey-Friars, 70; other ancient ecclesiastical institu- tions, 71 ; St. Mar/s church, 72 ; St. James's church, 76; Church- gate, 77 ; the church-yard, 78 ; Clopton's hospital, 80; residence of John Benjafield, Esq. Shire hall, 81 ; Abbey gate, 82 ; anti- quities discovered in the Abbey grounds, 84 ; Guildhall, free gram- mar school, 86 ; charity schools, theatre, bridewell, wool halls, 87 ; assembly rooms, Suffolk public li- brarj'^. Angel inn, 88 ; new gaol, house of correction, 89 ; St. Ed- mund's hill, military magazine, 90; ancient gates, remains of ancient buildings, 91 ; vine-fields, 9'^ ; na- vigable canals, 93 ; charters, fairs, 94 ; visits of royal and noble per- sonages, and remarkable events, 95 ; eminent inhabitants and na- tives, 105. Butley, priory, 32S : its remains, 329, Buxhall, 206. c. Cabbages, cultivated for cattle, 15,13. Calihorpe, Dorothea, her cljarities, 173, 174. Caropsey, INDEX. Canipscy Ash, nunnery, 305. Canning, Rev. ilichard, account of Capel, Sir William, anecdotes of him, 171, 112. Capel, Edward, Esq. account of liim, 193. Carew, Sir William, his monument at Bury, 7o. Carleton, cliantry, 311. Carletord, hundred of, 264. Carrots, cultivated lor horses, 16. Cavendisli, 163 ; eminent persons of the family of Cavendisli, 163. , Sir John, account of him, 163. -, Sir William, account of him, ib. - — , Thomas, his voyages, 269, 270. Chedworth, Lord, his monument and inscription at Ipswich, 249, 250; account of him, 250, 251. Chelswonh, remains of a stone build- ing there, 213. Chilton, remains of its chapel, 164. Clare, 132 ; its castle, 133, 136; the priorj', 136', eminent persons bu- ried in ttie priory church, 137; parochial church, 139. Clagget, 'W^illiam, account of him, 169. ■ '-, Nicholas, account of him,ib. Cienche, judge, his monument at Holbrook, ri7. Ciopton, Foley, account of his fami- ly, 80. — — — , William, his monument at Melford, 166; curious writ issued by the court of chivalry respecting him, 166, note. John, his monument at Mel- ford, 167. Cockfield, 164. Coddeniiam, 2 J 9. Colbv, Charles, Esq. account of him, 399. Colncis, hundred of, 267. Cooke, Sir Thomas, account of him, 158. Copinger, Rev. Henry, his motm- inent at Lavcnham, 154 ; anecdote ihim, 1.^5. — , Sir W' illiam, 206. Curdell, Sir William, his monument at Mellbrd, 167 ; founder of the hopitals there, 168. Cormvallis, particulars of the noble family of, 198, 199; monuments for various meaihers of it at Broome, 200. Corton, 397. Cosford, hundred of, 2tl, Covehithe, 358. Cowling, 140. Cows, breed of, 18. Croits, Lord, description of his mo- nument at Saxhani, 131. Crag, H manure composed of shells^ 17. Greeting, All Saints, 219, 220. , St. Oiave, ib. , St. Mary, 220. Crisp, Edward, Esq. attempt to as- sassinate him, 7 9, 80. Crowfield Hall, 220. Cultbrd, church and monuments, 1 83. , Hali, 183. Cullum, Sir John, account of him, il8. , Sir Thomas, his monument at Hawsted, and account of hira, 117, 118. D. Dalham, 140 ; church, 141. Hall, 141. Darsham, 359. Daundy, Edward, his foundations at Ipswich, 240, 249. Dehen, river, its course, 6, Debenham, population, church, free- school, j:09, 310. De la Poles, Dukes of Suffolk, their monuments at Wingfield, 315; at Butley, 329. Dennington, chantry, 311. Hall,ib. Depden, 141. D'Ewes, Sir Simonds, account of his fuiuily and himselt, 188, 192, note. Dister, AUaitte, his monument at La- vcnham, l;">6. Dodneis priorj', 2'25. Downham, Sandy, 41 ; extraordinary inundation of sand from which it received that appi llation, 42.' Dowsing, William, the parliamentary visitor, devastations connnitted by him in the churches of Ipswich, 242, 25.'>; at L'fford, 279; at Woodbridge, 30^, Draikstone, 17ti. Drury, INDEX. DruTjr> monuments of that family at Hawsted, 113. -, Elizabeth, account of her, 115, 116. — — , Margaret, singular purchases made by her, 178. , Sir Robert, account of him, 116, 117. — — , Sir Thomas, his monument in St. IVIary's, Bury, 75. , Sir William, account of him, 115; Jiote. Ducking-stool preserved at Ipswich, 246. Dunwich, bishops of, 35 ; situation of the town, 333 ; representation, an- tiquity,and former importance, 334} incroachments of the sea, 3*5 ; its churches, 337; monastic institutions, hospitals, 340 ; East wood, 341. E. East Bergholt, clmrch, and gentle- men's seats there, 225. Easton, 306. Bavent, 359. Hall, the seat of the Earl o£ Rochford, 306. Ness, 359. Echard, Lawrence, account of him, 371. Edmund, St. his history, 50. Edwardston, 164 j religious house there, 165. Eldred, John, his monument at Sax- ham, l-id. , Thomas, his inscription at Ipswich, 238. Elephant's tooth found at Walton, 270. Elmsetr, church, monument, drop- ping well, 214. Elmswell, church, and monument, 184. Elvedon, 44. Hail, seat of the Earl of Al- bemarle, ib. Elwcs, Sir Hervey, anecdotes of him, 144. > John, Esq. anecdotes of him, 146, 147, note. Enfield, William, account of him, 150. Ereswell, 44. Euston, 184. Vol. XIV, Euston Hall, the seat of the Duke of Grafton; the temple in the park, 185. Eversdcn, John, account of him, 105. Exning, 44 ; situation, church, an- cient history of, 45. Eye, situation, monastery, 195 ; cas- tle, 196 ; Romau coins discovered there, 197. Eyre, Simon, account of him, 41, F. Fakenham, 185, 186. Fastolf, John, his monument at Oul- ton, 401. Felixtow, 267 ; priory, 273. Cottage, 275. Felton, account of the family of, 266. Fmborough Hall, seat of 11. Petti- ward, Esq. 207. Finers, John, histomb at Bnry, 75. Fires, destructive, at Mildenhall, 40; at Bury, 102 ; atDebenhara, 309; at Southwold, 344 ; at Blithburgh, 352; at Henham Hall, 359, 3^.0; at Walberswick, 365 ; at Beccles, 368 ; at Bunga^y, 368. Fish, a remarkable one, caught at Or- ford. 322. Fitz-Eustace, monument of one of that family, 113. Fitzroy, Henry, natural son of Hen- ry Vin. his monument at Fram- lingham, 285 ;' account of him, 286. Flixton, (Lothing hundred) 397. i (Wangford hundred) 371. Hall, seat of Alexander A- dair, Esq. 372. Ford ley, 359. Fornham All Saints, llO. I St. Genoveve, 176. I St. Martin, ib. Framlingham, situation, church, 281 ; monumenis, 282, 289; alms-houses, 289; free-school, castle, 290; de- scription of the castle, 291 ; its history, 294, 300. Fresingfield, 312. Freston, 225. Tower described, 225, 226. G. Gainsborough, Thomas, account of him, 149. i'^ Gardiner , INDEX. Gardiner, Sir Robert, his monument atElraswell, 184. , Stephen, bishop of Win- chester, account of him, 108. Gifford's Hall, Stoke juxta Neyland, described, 170, 171. Gipping, river, its course, 6. . Hall, 207. Gipps, Sir Richard, account of him, 180. Gisleham, church, 373. Glemham, Sir Thomas, account of him, 330; his monument at Glem- hara, 331. , Henry, account of Inm, 331. Glemham Parva, 330. Glemsford, 16;). Gorleston, 398. Gosnold, John, his monument at Ott- ley, "^^65. Griinstone Hall, 2o9. Grundisburgh, church, 9.65. — Hall, ib. Gunton, 398; monuments in the church, 399. Guthram, the Danish chieftain, his supposed tomb at Hadleigh, 212. II. Hadleigh, population, 211 ; the church, monument of Guthram the Dane, alms-houses, 212. Halesworth, 341, 342. Hard wick, alms-house there, 123. — Heath, fine flock of sheep kept there, 123. House described, 122; singular custom practised there, 1^2, 123. Harmer, Rev. Thomas, account of him, 216. Hariismere, hundred of, 194. Haselton, Mary, inscription on her grave, 79. Haughley, formerly a market-town, 208 ; remains of its castle; privi- leges of the manor, ib. Haverhill, 139, 140. Hawes, Robert, account of liinj, 289. Hawsted, its church. 111; sepulchral monuments, 113 ; history, 119, 120. Farm, 1'22. — House described, 120. Helmingham, 220; church and rao- niiraents, 221. Hall, 221. Hemingston, ludicrous tenure by which it was held, 222. Hemp, cultivation and manufacture of, 16. Hengrave, 123; church and monu- ments there, 125. Hall described, 124. Henhara Hall, seat of Lord Bous, 356. Herring-fishery at Lowestoft, account ot it, 386. Herringfleet, priory, ferry, 399. Hesset, 176. Heveningham Hall, seat of Lord Huntingfield, 360 ; the Queen's oak, 36 I . Higham, Sir Clement, his monument, 110. Hinilesham, monuments of the Tim- perley family, 226. Hitcham, Sir Robert, his monument at Framlingham, 288 ; his alms- houses there, 289; his princely be- quest to Pembroke Hall, Cam- bridge, 300 Hogs, breed of, 21. Hoi brook, monuments in the church, 227. Hollesley Bay, curious cannon pick- ed up lliere, 276. Holt, Sir John, his monument at Red- grave, 203. Honington, the birth place of Ro- bert Bloomfield, autlior of the Far' trier's Boy, 186. Hopkins, iyiatthew, witch-finder ge- neral, 103. Horningsherth, 126. Horses, breed of, 20. Houses ol industry, observations on those of the iucorpornled hundreds, 11. Howard, Hon. James, account of him, 379. Howards, monuments for them at Stoke juxta Neyland, 170 ; at Fram- lingham, 28i!. Hoxne, liundred of, 310. , King Edmund discovered and put to death there, 312 ; chapel ni which he was interred, 31 3. Hall, the seat of Sir T. M. Hcsilrigge, 3l3. IckliBgharo* INDEX. I. Tcklingham, curious Roman bricks preserved there, 46 ; supposed, from the vestiges of an encamp- ment, to have been the Roman sta- tion Comhretonium, 46. Ickworth, 126. — Park, new building erected there bj the late Earl of Bristol, 127. Illeigh, Brent, 16'2. , Monks', 169. Ipswich, liberty of, situation of the town, 250 ; population and ancient slate, 251; charters, 232; officers and privileges of the corporation, 2S5 ; representation, 236; churches, «37; St. Clement's, 238; St. He- len's, 239; St. Lawrence, 240; St. Margaret's, 241 ; Christ church, St. Mary at Elms, 242 ; St. Mary at Kay, Black Friars, Christ's hos- pital, 243 ; Free Grammar school, 244; Tooley's foundation, 245; Custom House, St. Mary at Sroke, Gusford Hall, 246 ; Stl Mary at Tower, Archdeacon's palace, St, Matthew's, 247 ; Town Hall, 248 ; our Lady of Ipswich, 249; St. Nicholas', house in which Wolsej' was born. Grey Friars, 251 ; White Friars, St. Peter's, Wolsey's col- lege, 252; St. Stephen's, Coach and Horses Inn, 255 ; The Tan- kard public bouse, 256 ; Theatre, Market-place, 257; New Market, county gaol, 258 ; House of Cor- rection, Town and Borough gaol, 259 ; charitable institutions, bar- racks, race-course, 260 ; manufac- tures and commerce, 260, 261 ; passage vessels to Harwich, 261 ; eminent natives, 262, 264. Irrigation, not much practised in Suf- folk, 17. Ixning, see Exning. Ixworth, population, priory, inscrip- tion in the church, 181. J. Jermyn, anecdotes of the family of, 178, 179. Jernegan, Sir Richard, his monument at Somerley, 403. Joan of Acres, account of her, 137. K. Kedington, 142. Kentwell Hall, Melford, 169. Kersey, priory, 215. Kessingiand, church, 374. Kettilbarston, service by which it was held, 216. Kirhy, Joshua, account of him, 332. Kirkiey, 400. Kitson, Sir Thomas, his monument at Hengrave, and account of him, 125. L. Lackford, hundred of, 39. Langham, 188. LanguHid Fort, 273-275. Lany, Benjamin, Bishop of Ely, ac- count of him, 264. Larke, river, its course, 7. Lavenham, its manufactures, 151 ; church, 152 ; monuments, l54; charities belonging to the town, 157; history of its manor, and eminent natives, ib. Laxfield, 313. Leake, Captain Andrew, account of him, 391. Leiston abbey, 362. Letheringhain priory, church and monuments, 307. T 105. o. Offton, 223. Old Hall, Felixtow,its ruins, 273. Onehouse, 210. Ortord, situation, representation, po- pulation, title conferred by it, 320; the castle, ib. ; de^fc'ribed, 321 ; its history, Si2 ; the chapel, 323 ; funeral monuments, 324 ; town- hall, assembly house, former im- portance of the town, 3^6. Orwell, river, its general character, 7; tradition respecting its ancient out- let, 2'75. Park, 268. Ottley, church and monument, 265. Oulton, church, 401 ; house of indus- try, 402. P. Pakefield, 402. Pakenham, 177. Palgrave, the burial place of Tho- mas Martin, the antiquary, 201. Parham, 381 ; antiquities discovered there, the Parham thorn, 332. Pemberton, John, his charities, 280, 281. Peyton Hall, near Boxford, 160. , Rarasholt, its ruins, 278. Pigeons, great numbers of them rear- ed in this county, 21. Playford, 266. Plomesgate, hundred of, 316. Plumston Hall, at VVhcpstead, 132. Potter, Rev. Robert, account of hipi, 383. Poultry abundant in this county, 21, R. Rabbit-warrens, 21. Ramsholt, 278. Redgrave, 201; monuments in the church, 202. Hall, ib. Redlingfield, nunnery, 203. Reeve, Cjariv, account of her, 264. , John, last abbot of Bury, de- scription of his tomb, 73, 74. Rcndlcsham, 308. Rendleshani INDEX. Rendlesham Hall, 308, 309. Reydon, 3G3. Reynolds, Right Hon. James, his mo- nuraeut at Bury, 77. Richard of Lanham, account of him, 157. Risbridee, hundred of, 132. Risby, its church with a circular stee- ple, 129. Rivers, Stour, Gipping, Orwell, De- ben, Gj Aid, BIythe, Larke, Wave- ney, Little Ouse, 7. Roger, the Computist, account of him, 105. Rougham, 117 ; raonuraents of the Drury family there, 177, 178. Hall, 177. Ruggles, T. Esq. observations on the houses of industry, 11. Rumburgh, priory, 364. Rushbrook, 178. r Hall, 179. Rushniere^ 26d. s. Saffron, cultivation of, 17. Salisbury, countess of, anecdotes of her, 209. Samford, hundred of, 224. Sampson, Dr. account of him, 293, note. Sancroft, Dr. William, archbishop of Canterbury, his benefactions to his native village, 312. Sapiston, 188. ^ Savile, Sir Henry, anecdote of him, 215, note. Saxham Magna, monument in the church, l'-ii9. Parva, monument of Lord Crofts in the church there, 131. Saxmundhara,churcli, house of indus- try destroyed, 327. Scroope, Thomas, account of him, 378. Seckford, Thomas, Esq. his monu- ment and account of him, 303 ; alms-house founded by him at Woodbridgc, 304. Semer, house of industry erected there for Cosford hundred, 216. Sheep, breed of, 19. Sherland, Edward, Esq, his monu- ment at Elmsett, 214. Bhipraeadow, house of industry, 372. Shrublaiui Hall, 219. Sibton, 364. Simon of Sudbury, archbishop of Canterbury, his tomb at Sudbury, 149. Smitli, John, an eminent benefactor of Bury, his tomb, 75. Smyth, Ann, her cliaritable founda- tion at Ipswich, 243 Siiape, monastery, 332 ; curious font in the church, 333. Soame, Sir Sieplicn, his monument at Little Thurlow, 147. Soham, Earl, 306. Ludge, Earl Soham, ibid, Somerley Ilall, 403. Somerliton, church, ibid. Sotterley Hall, seat of M. Barne, Esq. 373. Southwold, situation, 342 ; privileges of the town, 343 ; dreadful fire, improvements, 344; the church, 345 ; guildhall, batteries, &c. 346. — Bayj sea-fighr there, 348. Sparrow, Dr. Anthony, b'shop of Norwich, account of him, 141. Spencer, Henry, bishop of Norwich, account of him, lOO note. Spink, James, Esq. his sepulchral in- scription, 78, 79. Spring, Thomas, the rich clothier, 15^, 133, 157. Stoke juxta Clare, its monastery and collegiate church, 143. Neyland, its church and monuments, 170. Stonham Aspa!, 223. Earl, ibid. . Parva, 224. Stour, river, its course, 6 ; tradition respecting its ancient outlet, 273. Stow, hundred of, 205. Stow Hall, at Stowiangto'^t, 188, 189. Stowiangtoft, 188; antiquities dis- covered there, 191. Stow-market, population, church, ma- nufactures, 205; navigable canal, Abbott's Hall, house of Industry, 206. Slradbrook, 514, Stratford, inscription on the church, 227, supposed to be the Ad^nsava. of the Romans, 227, 228 Sudbury, 147 ; manufactures, college, priory, 148; eminent natives, 149. Sudbourne Hall, the seat of the Mar- quis of Hertford, 320. I Suffolk, INDEX. Suffolk, situation, ''extent, division, and population, 1 ; climate, soil, 3; rivers, 6 ; roads, canals, and woods, 7 ; wastes, 8 ; state of property, 9; buildings, state of the poor, 10; agriculture, 11 : commerce and ma- nufactures, 22 ; general history, ib. ; lionorial history, 29 ; ecclesi- astical dxxd civil government, 37. , Earls and Dukes of, 29. Sulyard, anecdotes of the faniily of, 210, 211. Surry, Earl of, his monument at Fram- lingham, 282 ; account of him, 283. Swallows, observations on their de- parture, 347. Sylehara, its ignesfatui, 314. T. Tanner, Rev. John, account of him, 379. Tattingstone, house of industry for Samford hundred, 228. Taylor, Dr. Rowland, his martyrdom, 212.213. Tendnng Hall, the seat of Sir Wil- liam Rowley, 171. Thedwestry, hundred of, 172. Thetford, 47. Thingo, hundred of, ib. Thorington, 364. Thorn, Christmas-flowering at Par- hanj, 332. Thredling, hundred of, 309. Thnrlow, Great, 145. , Little, 147. — •-, late Lord, account of him, . 181. , Dr. Thomas, Bishop of Dur- ham, account of him, 182. Thwaiie, 203, 204. Timperley, John, inscription on his tomb at Hintlesham, 226. Tollemache, anecdotes of the noble family of, 220, 221. Tooley, Henry, his charitable foun- dation at Ipswich, 245. Trimley, St. Martin, 269 ; its church in ruins, 27 1. Trimmer, Sarah, account of her, 264. Troston Hall, the seat of Capel Lloft, Esq. 192. u. Uffbrd, church, 278 ; destruction of its ornaments, curioas cover to tlic font, 279. Utber, Admiral, account of him, 380. V. Vernon, Mrs. her monument at Hun" don, 141, 142. w. Walberswick, its former prosperity, 364; destructive fires, church, 3c)5. Walgrave, monuments of that family at Bures, 161 ; anecdotes of it, 162. Walton, church, castle, 271 ; state of its ruins in the last century, 272. Wangford, priory, church, 366. , hundred of, 367. Ward, Dr. Samuel, account of him, 140. Warner, Mary, her charitable foun- dation at Boyton, 276. Wattishara, singular tenure by which it is held, 216. VVaveney, river, its course, 7. Weld, Joseph, Esq. his tomb at Bury, 75. Welnetham, Roman antiquities dis- covered there, 179. Westhall, 366. West h or p, 204. Hall, its demolition, 204" West Stow Hall, 194. West wood Lodge, near Blithburgb, 357, Wetherden, its church, 211. Hall, 210. Whatf5eld» remarkable for its fine wheat, 216. Whepstead, 132. Wherstead Lodge, the seat of Sir Robert Harland, 228. Wickham Market, 280. Wiles, John, his epitaph at Lavenham, 156. Wilford, hundred of, 27.'>. Wingfield, 314; college, church, cas- tle, 3 15. Wingfield, Anthony, Esq. his monu- ment at Stonham Aspal, 223, 224. , Sir Anthony, his monu- ment at Leiheringham, 307. Wilchcratt, cruel persecutions for that imaginary crime, 103, 104. Witn6sham, 266. Wollaston, William, his monument at Finborough, 207. Wolsej, INDEX. WoUey, Cardinal, house in which he was born iit Ipswich, 'i^^l ; his col- lege in that town, '25'2, '254 ; anec- dote of him by Fuller, 234, note. biographical account of him, "262 Woodbridge, commerce, population, 300; church, 301; priory, 30!^; alms-house, 304 ; Iree-grammar- school, meeting-houses, fire-oflices, banks, barracks, 305. Woollen manufactures of this coun- ty, 23. Wool pit, its manufacture of brick, church, spring, supposed by some antiquaries to be the Sitomagus of the Romans, 180. Woolverstoa Hall, 22:8; obelisk in the park, 229; long litigation re- specting this estate, 230. Worlingliam, 373. Worlingwortii, its beautiful font, 316. VVrentliani, 366. Wykes Bishop, 238. Ulibrd, 239. Y. Young, Arthur, Esq. introduces th« cultivation of chicory into Suffolk, 17 ; also the breed of South Down sheep, 19; his seat at Bradlield, 174, 175. Yoxford, 306. SURREY. Surrey, considered as part of a highly cultivated country, will be found, on a general survey, to present, perhaps, as large a por- tion of beauty and deformity as any county in the kingdom. This mixture, however, contributes to give it that variety so eminently pleasing in natural scenery. Here vast naked heaths impart an air of wildness, which is strongly contrasted with the numberless beauties strewed by the hand of art over its surface ; there its hills aspiring to the bold character, and exhibiting the picturesque situations of mountains, gradually decline into richly wooded dales, or plains covered with abundant harvests ; whilst, on its downs, its — — spacious airy downs With grass and thyme o'erspread and clover wild. Where smiling Phoebus tempers ev*ry breeze?. The fairest flocks rejoice — Such are the downs of Bansted, edged with M'oods And tow^xy villas.* It is a common observation that this county contains a larger proportion of gentlemen's seats than any other district of Eng- land of the like extent. This circumstance is certainly owing in part to its vicinity to the metropolis ; but when the acknowledged salubrity of its air and other natural advantages are taken into the account, we shall only wonder that they are not still more nu- merous. Vol. XIV. B ^ situation ♦ Dyer's Fleece, Book I, StTRREY. Situation and extent.— -Surrey is an inland county, si- tuated on the south-eastern part of the kingdom. On the north it is separated hy the Thames from Middlesex, and a very small point of Buckinghamshire; on the west it is bounded by Berk- shire and Hampshire; on the south by Sussex; and on the east by Kent. Its form is a pretty regular oblong, except- ing on the north side, where it is deeply indented by the Thames. In regard to size Surrey ranks below most of the other counties of England ; its greatest length from north to south being about twenty-six miles, and its greatest breadth from east to west, about thirty -eight. In the Magna Britannia'^ it is said to be twenty-two miles in breadth, and one hundred and twelve in cir- cumference, and to contain 592,000 acres : but the best modern authorities make its contents 811 square miles, or about 519,000 acres. Division and population. — The county is divided into thirteen hundreds, the names of which, with their population, are shewn in the subjoined table drawn up from the returns made to Parliament in 1801. Hundreds, Townships, &c. Inlia- bited houses By how many fa- milies oc- cupied. Males. Females, Chiefly employed in agri- culture. Dii'io in iiade oi iiandi- craft. Total of peisuns. Hund ofBlackheath Copthorn&EffinghaH) Elnibridge - - - - Godalming - - - Godley & Chertsey Tanridge - - - - Wallingtoii - - - Wotton, or Dorking .Town of Guildford iioro. of Southwark 1 118 17647 1485 962 1085 1257 1528 2112 1179 2537 1476 923 464 10933 46072 1231 25712 1793 1062 1236 1440 4686 2603 1580 1269 2914 1668 1032 579 1786S 3304 45752 4307 2711 . 3027 3932 4154 5404 3970 3602 7098 4177 2754 1242 35704 3064 54998 4396 2631 3186 4092 4329 6418 3778 3702 7494 4037 2644 1392 35744 2444 3124 1814 795 1184 1433 2773 834 2462 3189 1603 2047 nil 28 135 4^3 16979 883 507 713 929 1444 1293 548 891 1547 612 , 502 495 15037 6368 100750 8703 5342 6213 8024 8483 1 1822 7748 7304 14592 8214 5398 2634 67448 Total 63673 127138 141905 22746 42 865 209043 In • Vol. V. p. -327. SURREY. ^^r ' * In the year 1 700, the population of Surrey was estimated at 154,900; in 1750, it had increased to 207,000 ; in 1801 it was found, as above, to be upwards of 269,000; and there is every reason to believe, that when the returns under the act of 1811 are made public, it will appear to have received farther acces* sions during the last ten years. No inconsiderable portion of this increase must doubtless be sought in the immediate vicinity of the metropolis, and in the establishment or extension of dif- ferent manufactures there. The number of inhabitants on each square mile averages 332, and the averaged number of deaths, taken from the registered ac- counts for ten years, amounted to one in forty-one of the resident population. Climate. — In a county where the soils and elevations are so various, the climate also must of course vary considerably. It is the general opinion, that less rain falls in most parts of Surrey, than in the metropolis, or in the vale of London, so that the cli- mate may, upon the whole, he regarded as dry, as far as respects the quantity of rain merely: but the southern border must neces- sarily be moist and damp, from the nature of the soil, the flat- ness of the surface, and the immense number of trees which co- ver it and obstruct ventilation. From the like causes, the low parts near the Thames must be considered as rather damp. On the other hand, the atmosphere of the chalk-hills, which run across the whole county from east to west, is dry, rather keen, and bracing. . On the wide and exposed heaths about Bagshot, Al* dershot, and Hind-head, a similar climate prevails, so that the whole west side may, with a very small exception, be said to have a dry, and rather cold, atmosphere. The spring is in general early, and here vegetation is not so often checked by frosty mornings, and cold, raw, easterly winds, as in some of the more southern counties. The summers are com- monly dry and warm ; and the harvest early, generally com- mencing in the first ten days of August^ and from the steadiness B 2 of 4 '.Jlf- SURREY. of the weather at that important time, there is seldom any cor» out in the fields after the first week of September. The wind blows most steadily from the west and south-west, seldom keeping long in any point between the north-west and north-east. In the spring, and frequently towards the end of autumn, the easterly winds prevail ; and the weather is then cold and raw, with a drizzling moisture : but the greatest quantity of rain falls when the wind blows from the south-south- west, or south. The climate is deemed very healthy in most parts of the county, between the southern district, called the Weald, and the Thames, particularly near the northern foot of the chalk-liills. The dry- ness of the soil and atmosphere, and the entire freedom from the smoke of the metropolis by the prevalence of the westerly winds, have deservedly conferred the character of salubrity on this divi- sion of the county. Even in the Weald, where the surface is low, and the soil moist, diseases are by no means frequent, nei- ther is the ordinary duration of human life abridged. , SOIL The soil of Surrey is extremely various, and by no means so clearly discriminated as in some other districts of the kingdom, the different kinds lying a good deal intermixed in small patches, especially in the northern part of the county. They may be reduced to the four general heads of clay, loam, chalk, and heath. The most extensive tract of uniform soil is that which extends along the whole southern border of the coun- ty, and forms what is denominated the Weald of Surrey ; a dis^ trict about tiiirty miles in length, and varying from three to five in breadth. This consists of a pale, cold, retentive clay, upon a sub-soil of the same nature : its surface is flat, covered with wood, and its elevation is said to be less than that of any other vale district in the island. The agricultural management of this soil not only requires a large capital, but also superior skill, at- tention, and activity, in order to make tlie most of the proper sea- sons for the different operatioiis. Proceeding northward we come to a district of sandy loam, likewise stretching across the whole county. StlRREY. county, but on the cast side seldom exceeding lialf a mile in breadth, till at Albury and Shalford it expands as far as Has- comb and Hambledon on the south. The richest part of this tract lies round Godalming; the soil is every where of great depth, and rests on a base of sand-stone, veined with iron ore. The most striking and remarkable district consists of the chalky downs, contiguous to the former. They lie nearly in the middle of the county, entering from Kent into Surrey by Croydon and Limpsfield where their width is about seven miles, and gradually narrowing as they proceed westward, till their termination near the border of Hampshire, where there is merely a narrow ridge, but little broader than the turnpike road. Along the elevated summit of the downs, particularly about Walton and Hedley, and between the Mole and the Wey, is a large extent of heath, which, for a considerable depth, divides the chalk of the northern from that of the southern compartment of the downs, though it is pro- bable that they join at their base. Setting out from the eastern extremity of the downs, and proceeding northward, we find a va- riety of soils, but chiefly strong clay, streaked with sandy loam; and these, with patches of gravel, continue till near Dulwich, from which place, to the extremity of the county near Rother- hithe, is a strong unmixed clay. If we set out farther to tlie west, from Bansted downs, we find the chalk bounded by a long stretch of clay, by Sutton, Morden, and the east side of Merton, till we reach the loams of Putney heath, Wimbledon, and Mort- ■n lake. A similar line of soils, but with less extent of clay, be- fore we reach the sandy loams, prevails, if we set out from any point of the downs between Bansted and Clandon; and the farther westward we proceed, the breadth of the clay soil that di- vides the chalk from the sandy loam decreases in proportion. From the northern borders of the clay to the Thames, the soil in general is sandy, intermixed, however, especially on the banks of the Mole and the Wey, with loam of different qualities and clay. It is difficult to conceive a worse kind of soil than that of the heaths of Surrey; and these unfortunately occupy a very B 3 large SURREY. large portion of the west side of the county. The whole tract from Egham to Ash is, with little exception, heath, or moorish soil, which is also of considerable breadth; for the space from Bagshot, through Chobham and Byfleet, to Cobham, Ripley, and Oatlands, is a series of dreary and almost irreclaimable heaths. The soil is similar on that line of the barren land which runs from Blackheath to Leith hill, and stretches from the vale of Albury to the beginning of the Weald, near Ewhurst. General APPEARANCE. The surface of almost the whole of Surrey, except the Weald, consists of gentle hill and dale. In some parts the hills rise to a considerable height, and present very bold and commanding views. The north-west corner of the county, near the Thames, has its surface varied by Cooper's hill and St. Anne*s hill ; both remarkable for the great extent of country which can be seen from them. The next eminence to the east, but at a greater distance frpm the Thames, is St. George's Hill; after which, proceeding down the river, the heights of Richmond, Putney, and Roehampton, attract the eye, and farther to the east, the rising grounds about Norwood au4 Dulwich. Across the middle of the county the downs, rising with a gentle slope from the north, and broken in their eastern division into deep and waving vallies, form a striking object, and give variety to the appearance of the county. Towards the nortiiern border of the downs, Sandersted hill, near Croydon, affords a rich and ma- jestic view. From Box hill, Bausted downs, and Hedley heath, the prospects are also singularly commanding and diversified. To the south of the downs the surface of the county rises in the hills that overhang the Weald, near Oxted, Godstone, Reygate, and Dorking. As we approach the western extremity of the county, these hills cover a greater breadth ; and near Wonersh, Godal' ming, and Peperharrow, covered with a rich foliage, and waving, with a graceful line, into intermediate vallieS;, watered by the dif- ferent branches of the Wey, they present the most picturesque prospect that Surrey can afford. On Leith hill, to the south- west of Dorking, Tilbuster hill, near Godstone, and Gratewood t hill SURREY'. 7 liill, near Godalming, the views are very extensive ; but perhaps there is no part of the county in which the appearance of the richly wooded vale of the Weald is more strikingly pleasing than on the road from Alhnry to Ewhiirst. After toiling up the deep and barren sands to the south of Albury, tliat present no object on which the eye can repose, even for a monieut, we suddenly come to the southern edge of the hill, whence the whole extent of the Weald, clothed with wood, appears to the south, with an occa- sional peep of the sea, through the breaks of the Sussex Downs, , whicli form the back-p^round : on the south-west appears the rich and finely varied country about Godalming, hacked by the wild heaths that stretch across frem Farnham to Haslemere. Some- times on a clear night the shadow of the moon is to be seen glanc- ing on the waves of the English Channel, forming a singular and romantic feature in tlie prospect.* Waters. — The principal rivers of this county, including the Thames, which only washes its northern border, are the Wey, the Mole, and the Wandle, The Wey rising on the border of Surrey, south-west of Hasle- mere, first takes its course by Liphook in Hampshire; again entering Surrey it runs eastward to Godalming and Guildford, having been joined at Shalford by a stream, which rises in the commons to tbr south of Wotton, and which, though small, sup- plies a great number of mills, besides embellishing the grounds of many gentlemen in its course. From Guildford the Wey passes north-eastward to Woking, leaves the town at a small distance on the north-west, then proceeds to Weybridge, to which place it gives name, and there discharges itself into the Thames. The Mole is formed by the union of several springs rising on the southern border of this county and in the forest of Tilgate, in Sussex, which, in the parish of Horley, southward of Reygate, compose a considerable stream. It flows at first through a flat and rather uninteresting country, till it approaches the great bar- rier of Downs, which extends across the county. Near Dorking, B 4 which * Stevenson's View of Ihe Agriculture of Surrey, p, 40. 8 SURREY. which it leaves on the south-west, it enters one of the defiles of these Downs, and traversing a romantic valley, washes the foot of Box-hill in its progress to Letherhead. Here the Mole makes its exit from among the hills, and winding through a range of commons by Stoke, almost encircles the village of Cobham, and proceeds to Esher. Here all the beauty of this river ceases, and it winds through an uninteresting flat to East and West Molesey, till its conflux with the Thames opposite to Hampton Court. This river has long been celebrated for a peculiarity, which has been much represented, or misunderstood, even by modern writers, and still more by those of ancient date. " The Mole,^^ says Camden, " coming to White-hill, (now called Box-hill,) hides it- self, or is rather swallowed up at the foot of the hill there ; and for that reason the place is called the Swallow : but about two miles below it bubbles up and rises again ; so that the inhabitants of this tract, no less than the Spaniards, may boast of having a bridge that feeds several flocks of sheep. On this statement the Rev. Mr. Manning makes the following comment, in which he has explained the true character of the phaenomenon.* " From this fabulous account, plainly founded on an idea suggested by common report, the reader might be led to imagine that the river actually disappears, forms a channel beneath the surface of the earth, and at a certain distance rises again and pursues its course above-ground. The truth of the matter seems, however^ to be this : The soil, as well under the bed of the river, as be- neath the surface on each side, being of a spongy and porous texture, and having by degrees become fonned into caverns of different dimensions, admits the water of the river through cer- tain passages in the banks and bottom. In ordinary seasons, these receptacles being full, as not discharging their contents faster than they are supplied by the river, the current sustains no diminution : but, in times of drought, the wat«r within these ca- verns being gradually absorbed, that of the river is drawn off" into them, and in proportion to the degree of drought, the streana is History of Surrey, Vol. I. Introduclion, p. 3. SURREY. is diminished. In very dry seasons, the current is, in certain places, entirely exhausted, and the channel remains dry, except here and there a standing pool. By the bridge at Thorncroft it rises again in a strong spring ; and after that the current is constant. At a place called the Way Pool, on the side of the river next to Box-hill, the method in which the water is thus occasionally drawn off is visible to the observer. It has here formed a kind of circular basin, about thirty feet in diameter, which is supplied in the ordinary state of the current by an inlet from the river, two feet broad and one deep. This inlet being stopped, the water in the basin soon subsides, and in less than an hour totally disap- pears ; when the chasms through which it passes off at different depths from the upper edge of the basin, may easily be disco- vered." From the circumstance of the river occasionally betaking itself to these subterraneous channels, it probably received the name of the Mole. In more ancient times it seems to have been called the Emlay, the upper part of it being known by that name in the 5th of Edward III. and even so late as the time of Henry VIII. This will also account for the origin of the name of the hundred through the heart of which the river takes its course, now, and from the earliest times, denominated Emley Hundred. The third and least considerable river in this county is the Wandle, which, rising near Croydon, and passing by Bedington, Carshalton, Mitcham, and Merton, runs into the Thames a little below Wandlesworth, or Wandsworth, to which it gives name. Its origin is small ; but at Carshalton it is much increased by the numerous springs which rise in that place ; and in its course of rather more than ten miles, it turns near forty mills of different kinds, and is said to furnish employment for about 2000 people. Another stream, though of still less magnitude, is worthy of no- tice, for supplying several gun-powder mills at Ewell and Maldon, and a large corn-mill at Kingston. It rises in a strong pellucid Fpring in the town of Ewell, and, proceeding due north, falls at Kingston into the Thames. 9 A con- 10 A consi(5ei'able branch of the Medway rises in the parishes of Godstoue and Horne, in the south-east part of tl^ county ; and after receiving an auxiliary stream in the parish of Lingfield, leaves Surrey and enters Kent. The river Loddon skirts the county on its west side ; its direc- tion is nearly north-west by Frimley till it leaves Surrey. Its waters are employed to supply the Basingstoke canal. On the wide and desolate heatlis in the west part of the county are several extensive ponds, some of which, as Shire Pond, be- tween Chobham and Byfleet, and another near Frensham, con- tain not kss than 150 acres. In the south-eastern parts of the county also, particularly near Godstone, there are ponds, but of inferior magnitude. All these are employed for the purpose of feeding fish for the London market. The mineral waters of this county were formerly in high repute, and some of them were much frequented ; but, principally owing to a change in fasliion or opinion, they have now lost their repu- tation. The springs of this kind are those at Epsom, Cobham, Streatham ; the Dog and Duck in St. George*s Fields ; Jessop's Wells, Comb-hill, Kingston ; Dulwich ; the Iron Pear Tree, near Godstone ; Warplesdon, Newdigate, Frensham, Witley, Meg's Well, near Dorking, &c. of the principal of which an account will be given in the proper place. The county in general is well furnished with springs ; but in regard to wells, it is often found necessary to bore to the depth of 300 feet, before a regular supply of water can be procured. This h principally the case on the chalk, but even in other places it is sometimes requisite to go to the depth of 200 feet. Minerals and fossils.— Iron-ore is found in considerable quantity in the south-west part of the county, about Haslemere, Dunsfold, and Cranley ; and in the south-east quarter about Ling- field and Horne. In most parts of the Weald also this ore pro- bably exists,; but in consequence of the high price of fuel the iron-works of Surrey have been totally neglected. Ragstone, containing some iron, abounds near the junction of the Weald, and i$URREY. li and the chain of sand-hills to the south of Blechingly, Reygate, and Dorking ; and is found in smaller quantities about Send and Chobham. Ore also of tolerable purity appears in the sand about Puttenham and Godstone ; and more or less of it is probably con- tained in all the sand-hills between those two places. That useful material, fuller's earth, is found in great quanti» ties about Nutfield, Reygate, and Blechingly, to the south of the Downs ; and some, but of inferior quality, north of them, near Sutton and Croydon. There are two kinds, the blue and yellow, Tvhich are used for different purposes; the latter being chiefly employed in fulling the finer cloths of Wiltshire and Gloucester- shire, and the former sent into Yorkshire for the coarser manu- factures. It is not known how long this earth has been dug in Surrey ; the oldest pit now wrought is said to have lasted fifty or sixty years, and is fast wearing out. It is thought that the de- mand for the fuller's earth of this counly will be affected by the recent discovery of a pit of the yellow, or more valuable kind, near Maidstone, in Kent. The price at the pits is about six sliil- lings a ton, which, at the London wharfs, fetches about twenty- five or twenty-six shillings. In the neighbourhood of Godstone, Gatton, Merstham, Reygate, and Blechingly, are extensive quarries of stone of a peculiar qua- lity. This stone, especially that dug near Merstham, is at first soft, and incapable of bearing the action of a damp atmosphere ; but after being kept under cover for a few. months, its texture becomes so compact, that it can resist the heat of a common fire ; and in consequence of this property it is in very general demand for fire-places in London and its neighbourhood, where it is sold at about one shilling and six-pence the cubic foot. On the White Hills near Blechingly, the stone is of a somewhat different qua- lity, and considerably more valuable. It is softer than that from the other quarries, and was once much used by chemists, bakers, and glass manufacturers, but is now principally employed by the latter, who have been enabled by means of it to produce plate- glass of much larger dimensions than formerly. These stoncvs are SURREY. are procured of almost every size, some containing not less than seventy-two superficial feet, of ten inches thick.* Large quarries of lime-stone near Dorking afford lime equal in purity and strength to any in the kingdom. It is particularly serviceable for works under water, and was employed in the con- struction of the West-India and Wapping-Docks. Limestone is also dug and burnt at Guildford, Sutton, and Carshalton. Chalk is very abundant in Surrey, and is in general use as a manure. There are chalk-pits at Croydon, Sutton, Epsom, Le- therhead, Bookham, Effingham, Horsley, Clandon, Stoke, Guild- ford, and Piittenham, on the north side of the Downs; and at Godstone, Caterham, Reygate, Merstham, Buckland, and Betch- vorth, on the south side ; besides others of less extent and note. Coal is said to have been formerly found in different districts of Surrey, particularly in or near the parish of Cranley, and in the parish of Warplesdon. Aubrey, in his History, gives the result of an attempt to discover coal in the latter, which proved suc- cessful ; but unfortunately in boring, when the workmen came to the coal, *' as fast as the irons were put in they would snap off ; and this was thought by Mr. Lilly, the astrologer, to be by the subterranean spirits,^'f doubtless exasperated at being thus wan- tonly disturbed in their profound retreats. The sand about Tanridge, Dorking, and Reygate, is in great request for hour-glasses, writing, and a variety of purposes ; that about the latter town is thought to be unequalled in the kingdom for purity and colour. In Camden's time there were pits of jet near Okewood. Au- brey makes no mention of this fossil ; but, in a letter prefixed to his History, Evelyn says, that there were then " pits of jeate in the skirts of the parish of Wotton, near Sussex." At present there is no appearance of it. Brick-earth is found in most parts of the county, but inferior in quality to that of Middlesex. At Nonsuch, in the parish of Cheam, is a particularly valuable bed, from which are made fire- bricks, ♦ 5lalcolm\s Suirey, Vol. I p. 48. t Aubrey's Surrey, Vol. ITT. p. 3^7. SURREY. 13 kick:?, as they are denominated, from llieir property of resisting heat. State of property. — There are no very large estates in Sur- rey. The most extensive does not much exceed 10.0001. per annum, and but few approach to that annual rent. The yeomanry are by no means so numerous as in the adjoining county of Kent; though in the western division round Guildford, and in some parts of the Weald, there are several gentlemen who farm their own estates at from 2001. to 4001. per annum. The size of farms also in Surrey may be considered as rather small than large, the most extensive comprehending 1600 acres; there are a few others from 600 to 1200 ; but the most commoa size is from 200 to 300. Many, however, are below that standard ; and Malcolm reckons that 170 acres may be assumed as the fair average of the county. The tenures are principally freehold. Most of the farms are let on leases, the duration of which is generally for twenty-one years, though some are only for seven or fourteen. A few are lett for three lives ; hut there are many extensive farms which are held without a lease from year to year, entirely at the will of the landlord ; and this custom is rather upon the increase. The rents, excepting in that part of the county which lies within the influence of the London markets, may be deemed low. In the clays of the Weald many farms are lett for ten shillings per acre, and few of them reach twenty shillings. The clay land in^, the other parts of the county is lett from fifteen to twenty shil- lings : the rents run about the same on the chalks ; but the best lands^ that is, the hazle loam and the rich sandy loams near Godalming, produce from twenty-five to thirty shillings. In the vicinity of London rents rise considerably ; at the distance of seven or eight miles they are from two pounds to three pounds ; and still nearer the metropolis, the ground that is possessed in small quantities by cow-keepers and nursery-men, letts for six pounds, eight pounds, and even ten pounds per acre. Buildings, —Few counties in the kingdom can vie with Sur- rey 14 SURREY. rey in the number and elec^ance of the gentlemen's seats '^hich it contains. In regard to the farm-houses, a striking difference ap- pears in different districts. In the Vale, or Weald, of Surrey* they are too often mean and ruinous, and certainly justify the remark, that from the condition of tlie farm-honses and offices, the state of agriculture may be safely inferred. In the other parts of the county they are in general sufficiently large and con- venient, in good repair, and kept neat and clean. The oldest are built entirely of brick, and mostly covered with large heavy date-stone ; and many are constructed of a framing of wood lathed and plastered, or rough-cast. Some of the barns have clay walls; but they are commonly of timber placed on a founda- tion of brick or stone. They are large and commodious, as are ^\so the stables ; but in regard to the latter, a general practice prevails throughout the county of not making proper divisions between the horses; The disadvantages of this mode of con- struction are too obvious to require enumerating. Such farmers as lie near the chalk are careful to bottom their farm-yards, and line their drinking-pools with that material. The cottages are in general sufficiently large and convenient for the class of persons by whom they are occupied; and a small piece of ground for growing vegetables is commonly attached to them. Upon the whole, the buildings of the farmers in Surrey may be considered equal in point of goodness to those of most other counties, and rhaps not less convenient than such as are to be found in dis- icts where agricultural improvement has not made greater pro- gress.* Poor rates and state of the poor. — The poor-rates in this county vary exceedingly in different parts. In 1803 the lowest rate was 8d. and the highest I8s. in the pound; the gene- ral average of the county being 5s. 8d. Before the property-tax took place the general proportion in most parts of this county was two-thirds, and such it continues in the hundreds of Woking, Blackheath, Godalmiug, and the town of Guildford ; but in the remainder^ * Stevenson's Agricultural Survey, p. 83. 16 remainder, particularly in the hundreds of Kingston, Elmbridge, Reygate, Tanridge, and Wallington, the parishes, since the pas- sing- of that act, have been assessed at the rack rental. From the abstract of the returns of the expense of the mainte- nance of the poor made to the House of Commons in 1803, it appears tliat those returns were given in from 151 parishes or places. Ninety-nine of these maintain all, or part, of their poor, ill w-ork-houses ; the number of persons so maintained during the year ending Easter 1803, was 5268, at an expense of 75,1051. The number of persons maintained out of workhouses at the «am« time was 30,870, besides 6875 who were not parishioners. The expense incurred for their maintenance was 58,7351. The expen^ diture in law, -removals* and overseers' charges, amounted to 85351. ; aud the sum of 16111. was laid out in purchasing mate- rials for employing the poor. The paupers of eighteen parishes? wa-e farmed or maintained under contract; and those of seven others were maintained and employed under the regulations ©f special acts of Parliament Two hundred and sixty friendly societies have been enrolled at the quarter-sessions pursuant to the acts passed in the thirty -third / and thirty-fifth George III. ; and there are sixteen female friendly ' societies, containing 1845 members. Agriculture. In regard to agricultural improvement Surrey may be considered as behind many other districts of Great Britain. The arable land far exceeds the proportion of pasture ; but, as Mr. Stevenson remarks, " in a county where the soils are so very various, and where so little of system prevails, it is impossible l>y any general observations, or remarks, to give an adequate and just idea of the rotation of crops that prevails even in any con- siderable district of the county." * The leading principle of mo- dern husbandry, that in no case except under very particular circumstances, ought two corn, or white crops, to succeed each other, seems to have been not long adopted, and to be makings its way, though perhaps but slowly, in most parts of the county. The * Ajgricultural Survey of Surre;jr, p. 178. 16 SURREY. The drill husbandry has not found tnany followers in Surrey, except in the west part of the county, about Bagshot, Esher, Send, Gobham, and Ripley, where it is very general. The pro- duce of wheat is from two to five, and sometimes six quarters an acre, and that of barley from four to seven and a half. The latter is used only for malting, for which purpose it is reckoned equal in quali ty to any in the kingdom. The climate of Surrey seems to be less favourable to oats than to wheat or barley. As the former is often grown on foul land, the produce is sometimes very low, not exceeding three quarters per acre ; but when sown on clean ley, or after turnips, it frequently#(t yields from six to eight quarters. Garden pease and beans are cultivated in the immediate neigh- bourhood of the metropolis, and the sandy loams near the Thames about Mortlake ; while the field varieties of both are extensively grown in most other parts of the county, and especially on the chalk-hills. There is every reason to presume, that turnips have been raised in the fields in this county as long as in any other dis- trict of England. Sir Richard Weston of Sutton, in his X)z- rections for the Improvement of Barren Land/* first published in 1650, gives a very clear and full account of the mode of. raising turnips, practised in Flanders and Brabant, and strongly recommends the culture of them to his countrymen. It is not improbable, that his book might have been the means of intro- ducing this useful root to the notice of the farmers of Surrey, by whom it has been largely cultivated beyond the memory of the oldest inhabitants It is always sown, as strong objections against * Mr. Kent is certainly incorrect, when he asserts, in his Survey of Nor- folk, that the turnip liusbandry was introduced into that county by Loid Townshend, who had witnessed the advantages derived from it in Hanover, whither he accompanied George I. ; for it appears from Campbell's Political Survey of Great Britain, that the culture of the turnip was not then established there, as George II. caused an abstract of the Norfolk system of cultivating it to be drawn up for the use of his Hanoverian subjects. SURREY. 17 against drilling prevail in .this county. When sold to be drawn oft' the field, from ten to twelve guineas per acre are very com- monly given by cow-feeders ; where they are bunched for market, they may be reckoned worth 401. per acre. Most of the farmers who grow any quantity of the common turnip have also several acres of the Swedish kind. The raising of cabbages is confined to the market and farming- gardeners, and cow-keepers in the immediate vicinity of the metro- polis. Carrots are largely grown in the northern part of Surrey west- ward of tlie Mole, chiefly for the London market, being very sel- dom given to cattle. When sold upon the ground they generally fetch from 161. to 241. per acre. Potatoes are not a common crop, except in the neighbourhood of the metropolis, especially in the parishes of Mitcham, Toot- ing, Streatham, and the new enclosure of Norwood Forest. The tops are frequently cut by the cow-keepers to be given to cattle when other food becomes scarce. When sold by the acre, which yields from eight to ten tons, they vary in price from twelve to twenty pounds. Surrey was one of the first, if not the very first, district in Eng- land in which clover was cultivated. We are told by Aubrey that it was introduced in 1645, by Sir Richard Weston of Sutton, and that he brought it from Flanders, or Brabant. Trefoil is sometimes sown here with red clover. Sainfoin is very extensively grown across the whole county, from the borders of Kent to those of Hampshire, large tracts of the chalky ridge being covered with its valuable herbage. The greatest part of it is made into hay. Very little lucern is sown, a few farmers only having four or five acres for green crops. Hops are largely cultivated about Farnham, where they occupy about 900 acres, the produce of which fetches a higher price than that of any other hop-district in the kingdom. Vol. XIV. C Woad « 18 SURREY. Woad is found to answer remarkably well on the chalk hills near Bansted Downs, and is generally sown witli barley. It is conceived, that a greater quantity of land is employed in raising physical plants in this county than in any other in England. Those which are grown to the greatest extent are peppermint, lavender, wormwood, chamomile, aniseed, liquorice, and poppy. With these and other plants for the druggists and perfumers, upwards of 250 acres are occupied in the parish of Mitcham alone, and about 100 more in other adjoining parts of the county. Surrey has a mucli smaller proportion of grass-land than most other counties in England. By far the greater part, and the most valuable of the meadow-land, lies along the hanks of the Thames in the north-west division ; in the parishes of Oxted, Tanridge, Lingfield, Crowhurst, in the south-east division; on the banks of the Mole, near Cobham ; and on the banks of the Wey, near Godalming. There is also some meadow-land in the north-east corner, near the metropolis; but in the Weald, where most grass would be expected, tlie proportion both of meadow and pasture is the smallest. With respect to dairy -grounds there may be said to be none in Surrey, though there is reason to believe that it formerly sup- plied a small part of the butter consumed in London. The greatest extent of pasture-land lying together is on the estate of the Duke of Norfolk in the parishes of Newdigate and Charl- wood. It is calculated, that the whole quantity of garden-ground in Surrey employed in raising vegetables for the London market amounts to about 3500 acres, being, according to Middleton, nearly as much as in .t-he three counties of Middlesex, Kent, and Essex. Some of the Surrey gardens are particularly distinguished for asparagus, which is grown in great quantities, and of excellent quality in the parishes of Mortlake, East Sheen, and Battcrsea. In the latter much of the garden-ground is employed in raising Vf^getables for seed. SURREY. 19 The district of Suri^ey most remarkable for its timber is that called the Weald, which borders on Sussex, and which there is reason to believe was at some former period covered entirely with wood. The woodlands in the other parts of the county, particu- larly on the chalk-hills, contain in general a greater proportion of coppice, and fewer timber-trees than those of the Weald. The most common kinds of timber are oak, beech, walnut, ash, elm, box, yew, birch, fir, larch, and maple ; besides which, tlie lime and chesnut are found about gentlemen's seats. It cannot but appear surprising, that a county so near the me- tropolis should contain such a prodigious quantity of waste land as Surrey. Before some recent enclosures it was generally com- puted, that one-sixth of the county lay in this unprofitable state. Within the last fifteen or twenty years, one-seventh of the wastes, amounting to 12,000 acres, has been enclosed. There yet remains in heaths 48,180 acres, of which Bagshot Heath occupies 31,500; in commons 17,410, and in common fields 3,350; making a total of 73,940 acres. Almost all the heaths, as Mr. Stevenson remarks *, might be planted with every prospect of success, and there are very few of the commons which would not bear good crops of corn. The vicinity of the northern parts of Surrey to the metropolis, and the facility of conveyance, afford the farmers an opportunity of procuring from London a variety of substances to be employed as manure. At a greater distance, besides the produce of their own farm-yards, they have no other substitute than lime or chalk, which is furnished in great abundance by the quarries on either side of the high Downs which run across the centre of the county. The application of chalk is very general, except in the immediate neighbourhood of London and the Weald, for the tough cold clays of which lime is considered more proper. The applica- tion of chalk was formerly confined to the stronger lands ; but it has latterly been applied with equal, if not greater, effect to the C 2 Jight * Agric. of Surrey, 457, 20 SURREY. light loams, and even to the sandy soils. On such from 5 to 800 bushels an acre are frequently laid. From a passage in Aubrey's History it appears that irrigation was practised in this county by Sir Richard Weston, before the middle of the seventeenth century. The small quantity of meadow- land, and the situation of much of it, prevents this operation from being either general or common : added to which, the waters of one of its principal rivers, the Wey, are not favourable to the practice, as one of its chief branches brings down immense quantities of sand from the hills near Godalming, and rather in- jures, than benefits, the meadows over which it is flooded. In the south-east corner of the county irrigation appears to have formerly prevailed in a greater degree, and to have had more at- tention paid to it than at present. At Cobham, Byfleet, Clan- don, and a few other places in the western division, a few acres may here and there be seen irrigated on the banks of the Mole and the Wey. In regard to cattle there seems to be no particular breed tliat Surrey can claim as its own. The horses usually employed by the farmer are in general large, heavy, and black. According to the statements given by Mr. Middleton in his Survey of Middlesex, out of 8500 cows kept for the supply of London with milk, Surrey supports only about 600. These are almost exclusively of the short-horned, or Holderness breed. By gentlemen's families the Jersey, Alderney, and Suffolk, breeds are often kept, and by the farmers at a distance from the metropolis, the Welsh, Devonshire, Sussex, and Staffordshire : the last of which are in many places very common and much esteemed. The chalk hills of Surrey are considered by Marshall as the boundary between the long and middle-horned breed. The same writer characterizes the cattle on the heaths of this county as small and mean-looking; " yet," says he, " they must be of a quality intrinsically good, or they could not exist on so bare a pasture. Their 1SURREY. 21 Their bone is in general remarkably fine. In horn, colour, and thinness of carcase, many of them resemble so much the ordinary long-horned breed, that there can be little doubt of their being one and the same race *. The rearing of calves for the London market was once a fa- vourite and profitable employment' in the centre of the county ; but from various causes this practice is on the decline, or at least is not carried on to any great extent, except in the more re- mote parts about Chobham and Bagshot, and in some districts of the Weald. Most of the cattle fattened for the butcher in Surrey are in the hands of the great distillers in the vicinity of London. The num- ber annually purchased for this purpose by Messrs. Hodgson and Co. of Battersea is from 400 to 500. Many of the gentlemen and farmers also occasionally fatten a few oxen ; but none of them to such an extent as Mr. Adam of Mount Nod, cr Mr. Coles of Norbury. The buildings of the former, constructed with particu- lar attention to convenience, are sufficient to accommodate 600 head of cattle. Oxen were some years since worked by many farmers, but very few are now used in harness. In the central and western parts are bred great numbers of sheep. It is but lately that much attention has hereb^en paid to the breed of this useful aniipal. In the memory of persons still living the large Wiltshire entirely occupied the sheep-farms on the chalk- hills, while a singular breed of small ill-formed sheep exclusively possessed the extensive western heaths, which they, though not in so pure a state as formerly, still continue to occupy. At pre- sent, besides the Wiltshire and Bagshot sheep, the Dorsetshire, South Down, Somerset, or Mendip, the Berkshire, the Romney, and the Merino South Down, are kept. The Soutli Down, Wilt- shire, and Dorsetshire, are by far the most common. The latter are kept for early lambs ; the Wiltshire are by some preferred for the fold, and the South Down for the butcher and their wool. A C 3 cross • MarshaU's South. Count. II. 8o, 22 SURREY. cross of the Merino and South Down, and of the Ryland Merino and South Down, is kept by many of the gentlemen, and by some of the farmers in Surrey ; and from the success which has at- tended the trials, especially of the latter cross, there is reason to believe that they will gradually supplant tlie pure South Down, wherever the soil and situation are adapted for them Neither the South Down nor the Bagshot sheep are often found quite unmixed. A pure heath sheep is a remarkably ugly crea- ture, with very large horns, and seldom weighs more than 8 lbs. per quarter. A few years since Surrey was much celebrated for the number and excellence of the house-lambs, sent from different parts of it to the London market ; but latterly not near so many are reared, and the practice seems to be gradually removing to the more dis- tant parts of the county, whence it will probably be transferred to districts still more remote from the lyietropolis. About Ewel, Esher, and Walton, however, there are still farmers who rear a considerable number of house-lambs ; but, from the increase in the price of labour, and in the first cost of the ewes, the profits of thi^ branch of business are greatly diminished. Dorsetshire ewes alone are employed for this purpose. Immense numbers of hogs were formerly fed at th^ distilleries in Uie neigbourhood of London ; but it has of late years been found more profitable to fatten oxen, though great supplies are still sent both from the distilleries and the starch-manufactories in this county to the victualling-office. They come from different parts of England, principaiiy from Berkshire, Shropshire, and the East Riding of Yorksliire ; but tlie breed of the former seems to be generally preferred. Most of the farmer$ also keep hogs, in greater or less numbers, of the Berkshire and China breed. Rudg- wick, on the borders of Sussex, is remarkable for a breed of swine that fatten to an enormous size. Some of them have attained 1 16 stone, and 80 or 90 is no uncommon weight. Of poultry great numbers of geese are kept on the cpnimons, especially f Stevenson's Survey, p. 537. SURllEY. 23 especially in tlie Weald. Tlie Dorking breed of fowls is well known; they are large, handsome, and perfectly while, distin- guished by having five claws on each foot, and are not now un- common in gentlemen's poultry-yards in dili'erent parts of the kingdom. Surrey contains few rabbit-warrens, though they would cer- tainly be profitable in the heatliy districts in the west of the county. Near Bansted Downs is a liare-warren containing about three acres, in which 200 brace are usually kept. In summer they aie fed on clover, rape, &:c. and in winter on hay. The warren is surrounded by a brick wall, about ten feet high, witli openings at regular distances, within which are w^re-gratings on hinges ; these give way to the hares when they enter the warren, and are so constructed^ that they immediately close after them, and prevent their escape. In regard to the implements of agriculture Surrey seems to have none that it can claim as peculiarly its own, if we except a machine for taking smut out of whetit, contrived by Mr. W. Hall, miller of Ewell, which is described by Stevenson ^' as nearly re- sembling that used for dressing flour. It consists of a cylinder perforated with small holes; furnished in the inside with a great number of brushes, which are driven round with great rapidity. The wheat is put into the cylinder, and the constant friction occasioned by the rapid motion of the brushes effectually separates the smutty grain, which is driven out by the holes of the cylin- der. Roads. The turnpike roads of this county in general are not distinguished for excellence, or judicious management. The badness of many of them is ascribed to various causes, as, the vant of a proper foundation ; too flat a form ; neglect in suffer- ing the water to stand upon them, and not scraping off the mud in winter, and the dust in summer; and the height of the hedges, «^ and the overhanging of timber, which prevent the free circulation of the air. To these causes may be added the unfitness of the C 4 material ♦ Agric, Surv, J4l. 24 SURREY. material employed in their formation, consisting principally of small flinty gravel, vrhich is soon ground to powder. The larger flints, which abound on the hills, might be applied to this purpose with great advantage. The cross roads are good on the hills, and in some other parts of the county ; but on the clays of the Weald, on the sands, and on the low tract near the Thames, they are very indiflerent. The Surrey iron rail-way from Wandsworth to Croydon was flrst projected in 1802, and is the first instance of the formation of roads of this kind for general use. It was soon completed ; and the success of the undertaking induced the proprietors to ex- tend it to Merstham : but, on account of the inequalities of the ground passed over in this second part, it proved a work of great labour, difficulty, and expense. The breadth of the road which is occupied by the going and returning railways, and a foot-path, is twenty-four feet, and the rise is one inch to every ten feet. The distance by the rail-way from Wandsworth to Croydon is about ten miles, and from the latter town to Merstham about seven. Mr. Stevenson observes, that tliis road does not appear to be much used ; neither is it probable that it will ever come into general use. The expenses attending the formation of them is enormous, and the advantages, and consequently the gain, are confined to carriage in one direction. The part from Wandsworth to Croydon lies near so many extensive manufactures, that it may possibly answer; but the division from Croydon to Merstham run- ning through a tract destitute of manufactures, and having only lime, fullers' earth, stone, and corn, to depend on at the farther extremity, can never pay very well *. A large basin capable of holding * A curious experiment on the facilit_y of draught was made on this rail, way July '24, 1805, when one horse drew twelve loaded waggons, each weighing above three tons, from Merstham to Croydon, a distance of six miles in one hour and forty-one minutes. Four more waggons v;ere after- wards attached and mounted by fifty labourers, and with this prodigious train the animal proceeded without difficulty. The total weight thus drawn was fifry-five tons, six cwt. two c^rs. SURREY. 25 holding more than thirty harges lias been made at Wandsworth for the purpose of forming a communication between the Thames and the rail-way. Canals, There is good reason to believe that the first locks erected in this kingdom were those on the Wey. This contri- vance was brought from the Netherlands between 1645 and 1650^ by Sir Richard Weston of Sutton, to whom, as we have seen, this county is indebted for several improvements. Under his direction the plan for making tlie Wey navigable from Guildford to Wey- bridge was formed ; but, though an act for that purpose passed in 1651, it was not carried into execution till towards the end of the century. In 1 760, the navigation was extended to Godalming. Between that place and Guildford there are four locks ; the navi- gation separates from the course of the river a little below Purford Lodge. The next canal made in Surrey was that which runs from Ba- singstoke to the Thames, and is principally fed by the little river Loddon, that divides this county from Hampshire. It passes from the latter into Surrey near Dradbrook, thence turns up to Coliugley Moor, and returns by Pirbright and Oak Farm, into the river Wey, near the village of Westby. From Dradbrook to the Wey, a distance of fifteen miles, it has a fall of 195 feet. This canal was completed and made navigable to London in 1796; the principal article conveyed upon it is timber. The Surrey canal, for which an Act of Parliament was obtained in 1801, communicates with the Thames by means of a dock at Rotherhithe, capable of containing about 100 sail of square- rigged vessels. The main line passing from the dock at first runs nearly in a south direction to the west of Deptford, and thence, in a wiast line, crosses the Kent, Camberwell, and Clapham, roads, and again enters the Thames at Vauxhall Creek. The whole of this range of eight miles is on one level, without a lock. The upper lines of this canal pass near Clapham and Tooting to Mitcham. The Croydon canal was first projected in 1800, and the Act for it 26 SURREY. it obtained the following year. It is carried from Croydon^ through the north-west corner of the county of Kent, and is in- tended to enter the Surrey canal in the parish of Deptford. The estimate of the expense of constructing this' canal given in by Mr. Rennie amounted to 64,1001. Manufactures. Though Surrey cannot by any means be de- nominated a manufacturing county, yet from its vicinity to the metropolis, and the convenience of its streams for the erection of mills, several manufactures of importance are established in it As these will be noticed in the places to which they respectively belong, it would be superfluous to enter into an enumeration of them here ; but it may be generally observed, that most, if not all, of these manufactures being in a great measure independent of the fluctuations of trade, are free from some of the most serious and increasing evils attendant on the manufacturing system in many other parts of the kingdom. Forest. Under the Norman race of kings a large portion of this county was reserved as part of the demesnes of the crown, and experienced the effects of that extraordinary passion for the chace, which possessed those princes. Under Henry II. the limits of Windsor Forest were gradually extended by the en- closure of his manors in Surrey, till at length he had afforested the whole county, Richard, his son and successor, soon found himself obliged, by the general disgust which this innovation had excited, to undo in part what his father had been so anxious to accomplish. In the first year of his reign he consented to dis- afforest the county from the river Wey eastward, and from Guild- ford Down southward, which amounted to no less than about three-fourths of it: and his charter for this purpose was con« firmed by King John. What remained forest upon the footing of this charter was called the Bailiwick of Surrey, as being ex- empted from the jurisdiction of the sheriff, and subject to that of its own bailiff alone. It contained the parishes and townships of Chobham, Bisley, Horshill, Byfleet, Purford, Wanborough, Pirbright, SURREY. 27 Pirbright, Ash, Windlesham, Tongham, Warplesdon, Woking, and Stoke. Within the same jurisdiction also lay Chertsey, Egham, and Thorpe ; but these, being the estates of the Abbey of Chertsey, were not subject to tlie bailiff's jurisdiction. King John, we are told, followed the example of his brother and fa- ther in afforesting the lands of his subjects, so that the forests were every where so much enlarged, that the greatest part of the kingdom was turned into forests ; the boundaries whereof were so large, and the laws so very severe, that it was impossible for any man who lived within these boundaries to escape the dan- ger : and thus it continued till the 17th year of his reign, A. D. 1215/* * By this time the business of afforestation had become so general a grievance, that several of the nobility and gentry petitioned the king, among other things, that all the new affores- tations made by him and his predecessors might be disafforested. The king, though unwillingly, complied, and this produced the Great Charter and the Charter of the Forests, stipulated for at Runnemead, in 1215. John ought in consequence to have dis- afforested that part of the county which his brother had left a forest; but, probably owing to his death, in tlie following year, nothing of the kind was done till the charter granted by his son and successor Henry III. in the 9th year of his reign. With re- gard to Surrey, this grant amounted to a disafforestation of the whole except the park of Guildford, and notwithstanding the at- tempts of Edward I. and II. to set it aside, the commons of the county maintained the rights which it conferred with such per- severance, that in the first year of Edward III. they obtained a full confirmation of the above charter. The revival of the royal pretensions in the 7th year of Charles I. were not more success- ful, and served only to render the just claims of the people on this head more notorious, and the privileges they enjoyed under that charter more substantial and complete. From this period that part of the county, known since the time of Richard I. by the name of the Bailiwick of Surrey, is to be reckoned purlieu of the forest * Manwood, p. 243. 28 SURREY. forest only, in wliich the king still has a right and property over his deer escaping into it, against every man, except the owners of the woods, or lands, in which they are found, but which is ex- empted from the general laws of tlie forest, and the ordinary ju- risdiction ; and so far free and open to all owners of land within the same, as that, under certain limitations, they may chase and kill any of the deer actually found therein. For the better preservation of the deer so escaping into the purlieu, the king has in every such place a ranger, who is ap- pointed by letters patent, and whose office it is to rechase and drive back again the wild beasts of the forest, as often as they shall range out of the same into his purlieu. The present ranger of the forest in this purlieu, is the Honour* able Thomas Onslow, eldest son of Earl Onslow, to whom, in his official capacity, belongs Fangrove Lodge near Chertsey.* RjMAN STATIONS, ENCAMPMENTS, ROADS, &C. — Wheil it is considered that Surrey lies contiguous to the capital of the Roman settlements in Britain, and that this district was traversed by the roads which led from the south and east coasts of the island to that capital, it will not appear surprising tliat numerous remains of those conquerors should have been discovered within its limits. Though there is no positive evidence that this district contained any permanent stations, yet there are strong presumptive proofs of the existence of such stations at Kingston on the Thames, and at Woodcote near Croydon, which is apparently on very good grounds, considered by Camden and Ilorsley as the Noviomagus of Ptolemy. In St. George's Fields, Southwark, where many Roman coins and paveinents have at different times been found, was the centre of several Roman ways. One of these was the Ermine Street, which ran nearly parallel to, and at a very small distance to the eastward of, the present turnpike road, through Clapham, Tooting, Merton, Ewell, and Epsom, to Ash ted; and then proceeded in neai'ly a southern direction across Mickleham Down, where it is still ♦ J>lanning '3 Surrey, Vol. I. Introduction, SURREV. •29 istill plainly visible to Dorking. From Dorking it was continued along a remarkable ridge of hill, leaving Guildford about a mile on the north, to Farnliam, beyond which town it entered thcadja* cent county of Hampshire. The Stane Street, or Stone Street Causeway, a branch of the Ermine Street, commences at Dorking, and passing through the church-yard, where remains of it have often been discovered in digging graves, it may be clearly traced through the parish of Ockley, till it enters the county of Sussex in its progress south- ward to the city of Chichester. Another Roman military way beginning at the metropolis, and likewise known by the name of the Stane Street, intersected the county near its eastern bor- der from north to south, and has been traced through Stretliam, Croydon, Coulsdon, Caterham, and Godstone ; till it enters Sussex, where it is continued through Lindfield to Shore- ham. Remains of Roman encampments are found on Holmbury hiil, in the parish of Ockley, about two miles from the western Stand Street; and on Bottle hill, in the parish of Warlingham, near the eastern military way wliich bears the same denomination ; but the most extensive work of this kind, is that of St. George^s hill, Walton on the Thames. Here Caesar seems to have encamp- ed previously to his having crossed the Thames at Coway Stakes, thus named from the sub-aquatic contrivance of the Britons to obstruct his passage, some vestiges of which exist to this day. At Walton on the Hill, also, great quantities of Roman bricks and other relics, discovered within an inclosure of earth-work, mark the site of edifices belonging to the same people, the foun- dations and arrangement of some of which have been traced. Lastly on Blackheath, in the parish of Aldbury, are the remains of a Roman temple, surrounded with embankments. Vestiges of various other yrorks, unquestionably designed for military purposes, are to be found in different parts of the coun- ty. Some of these, as Hanstie Bury, on a projection of Leith hill, about four miles south of Guildford, and the fortification on War 30 SURREt. War Coppice hill, in Caterham, are ascribed to the Dan6s, bat the origin of others, such as the small camp on a common in the parish of Effingham, lately enclosed, it is impossible to deter- mine. GENERAL HISTORY. The first inhabitants of this county, of whom we have any information that can be relied on, were the Segontiaci, originally a people of Belgium, whose first settlements in Britain, were in the west of Hampshire; from which province, however, they were obliged to retire eastward on the arrival of another colony of the same nation. In process of time, such of them as had been left in Hampshire retired to the main body, and thus they all be- came confined within the tract forming the present counties of Sur- rey and Sussex. Such was their situation in the time of Ptolemy, by whom they are denominated Regni. On the division made by the Romans during their dominion over the island, this district constituted part ef the province of Britannia prima, or the portion southward of the Thames and Severn. On the new partition of the country which took place after the arrival of the Saxons, and is known by the appellation of the heptarchy, this county formed with Sussex a distinct state, under the title of Suth-Seaxna-rice, or kingdom of the South Saxons. It was founded by Ella about the year 491, and had its own monarchs till 725, when it was subdued by Ina, King of Wes- sex. On the division of England into shires, this district, from its situation on the south side of the Tliames, received the name of Suthrea, or Suthrie, since changed to its present appellation of Surrey. On the invasion of the island by the Danes, Surrey, as well as others of its provinces, was dreadfully ravaged by those barba- rians, till their leader, having gradually subdued the whole king- dom, seated himself on the British throne. William the Conque- ror having, in like manner, made himself master of England by the sword, divided among his followers the possessions of the Saxons SURHEt. . 31 Saxons in this county, as he had done in others. He gave to Richard de Tonebruge, or de Clare, tliirty-eight manors ; to Wil- liam Fitz Asculph, seven ; to Hugh de Montgomery, four ; to Walter Fitz Other, or Windsor, three; to Milo Crispin, two; to William de Braose, two ; to Godwin, Earl of Kent, two ; to Ed- ward de Salisbury, one; to Geoffrey de Magnaville, one; to Gil- bert d' Aquila, one ; and to Leofwine, Earl of Kent, one. In the later history of this county nothing worthy of particu- lar notice occurs, except that during the contest between Charles I. and his Parliament, Surrey strenuously supported the proceed- ings of the latter. In the early part of those commotions, a petition from this county, subscribed by 2,000 persons^ was pre- sented to the House of Commons, and another to the Lords con- gratulating them on the measures which they had adopted ; com- plaining of the delays in relieving Ireland, and the distractions of the nation, which could not be redressed as long as there were evil counsellors about the king, and popish lords in the house, and praying that they might be removed. This petition, in a day or two, produced the bills against bishop's votes, the pressing of soldiers, and some others. HoNORiAL HISTORY. It is known that so early as the time of the Saxons, this county conferred the title of Earl ; but the only person who, during their dominion, is recorded in history, as hav- ing borne that title, was Wad a, or Huda, who, in the year 853, was slain in battle with the Danes in the Isle of Thanet, whither lie had marched with the forces of Surrey, to the assistance of Eal- here. Earl of Kent. The first who enjoyed this dignity under the Norman princes, was William de Warren, Earl of Warren in Normandy, who married the daughter of the Conqueror, and accompanied him to England. Having signalized himself at the battle of Hastings, he was liberally rewarded by his fathcr-in-law, out of the estate* of his new kingdom : but the earldom was not conferred till soon after the accession of William II. He died in 1088, possessed of more than 200 lordships in ditfereut counties. 32 SURREY. His successor was his eldest son William, who espousing the cause of Robert, eldest brother of Henry I. in his attempt upon the crown of England, was dis- possessed of his earldom, and obliged to retire into Normandy. His dignity was shortly after restored, and his fidelity and subse- quent services proved him worthy of the favour of his sovereign, whom he attended in his last illness, and died in the same year with him, A. D. 1135. AViLLlAM the third earl, eldest son and heir of the preceding, was chiefly remarkable for tlie wavering policy, with which he balanced in such a manner between the opposite interests of Maud and Stephen, as to serve both in appearance, but neither in effect. Having accompanied the great expedition to the Holy Land in 1147, he was the year following intercepted by the Infidels, and slain. He was the last heir male of his family, leaving an only daughter, Isabel, who was successively married to William de Blois, a natural son of King Stephen ; and Hamelin Plantage- net, a natural son of Geoffry of Anjou. William de Blois succeeded to the earldom in right of his wife. From the various grants conferred on him by his father, he bore the titles of Earl of Bologne, Morteign, Warren, and Sur- rey, Lord of Norwich, and Pevensey; and died without issue in 1160. On his decease, the king for some time retained his dignities in his own hands; but on the marriage of Isabel, his widow, with Hamelin de Plantagenet, who was brother to the king by the father, the Earldom of Surrey was revived in his person. He died in 1201, leaving his honours to his son and successor, William, who enjoyed great influence over King John, and possessed his confidence in an eminent degree. He was one of the witnesses to the infamous deed by which the crown of Eng- land was surrendered to the see of Rome, and had the custody of some of the most important fortresses in the kingdom ; but not- withstanding the marks of royal favour which he had received, when the king refused to confirm the charter of Henry I. he went 9 over SUHREY. 33 over to ihe barons. He was also at the head of those who suc- cessfully opposed the repeal of the forest charter in the succeed- ing reign. He died in 1248, leaving his honours and great pos- sessions to his son John, who, in 1247, married Alice, daughter of Hugh le Brun, Earl of March and Angouleme, sister of William Valence, Earl of Pembroke, and also sister to Henry III. by the mother, whom Hugh had married after the death of her former husband. King John. This alliance accounts for the steady adherence of this nobleman to the royal cause, when most of the other barons had been pro- voked to abandon it. At the battle of Lewes, however, he unex- pectedly deserted the king^s army, and having withdrawn to France, left his estates at the mercy of the barons, who imme- diately took possession of them. He returned to England the year following, and in 62 Henry III. having commitled a most outrageous assault in the King's Court at Westminster, on Alan Baren Zouch, and his son, he was fined 10,000 marks for the offence. Notwithstanding his spirited resistance to the encroach- ments of the crown, this nobleman stood high in the favor of Ed- ward I, who, after his expedition to Scotland, made him sole war- den or governor of that kingdom. In this capacity, he sustained a signal defeat from the Scots at Stirling, but the king still conti- nued to employ him in his military operations in that country. He died in 1304, and was succeeded by his grandson John, who, after serving in many of the expeditions against Scotland under Edward I. and II. was one of the grave and able statesmen appointed to administer the government during the mi- nority of Edward III. In tlie reign of the latter, also, he was se- veral times employed against the Scots, and died in 1347, leaving his sister Alice, relict of Edmund, Earl of Arundel, his next heir in blood. To their posterity the honours of Warren and Surrey, with all the lands in this county held by the late earl, and great part of the other estates of the family, devolved. Th* afirst of these was Richard Fitz-alan, who, in 20 Edward III. attended the Vol. XIV. D king ♦34 SURREY. king to France, and was one of the chief commanders under the Black Prince in the memorable battle of Cressy. In the Parlia- ment held 28 Edward III. it being adjndged that the earl, his father, had been unjustly put to death by the procurement of Mor- timer, in the tumults which ushered in that reign, he was fully restored as his heir. He died in 1 376, and was succeeded by his eldest son Richard, who in the first ten years of Richard II. was a brave and successful commander of the king's fleet ; but his exploits abroad created him enemies at home, at the head of whom was Robert de Vere, Duke of Ireland. The Earl of Surrey, however, with the Earls of Warwick and Derby, whose ruin had also been resolved on, raised forces and displayed such firmness, that the duke was obliged to leave the country in disguise, and at length died an attainted, outlawed exile, at Louvain. The Earl of Sur- rey now returned into the service of his country ; but the king conceived such a jealousy of this nobleman, who, he feared, might stand in the way of his designs against his own uncle, the Duke of Gloucester, that, in 1397, he caused him to be impeached of treason, and the earl, after a short hearing, was found guilty by his judges, and on the same day beheaded. He had not been dead above a week when, 29 September 1397, Thomas Holland, Earl of Kent, and sister's son of the late earl, was created Duke of Surrey. In the year following, on the disgrace of Thomas Mov/bray, Duke of Norfolk, he was appointed Earl Marshal of England, and in 1399 Lieutenant of Ireland for three years. The fall and disgrace of Richard was only the pre- lude to that of this nobleman, whose title of Duke was annulled by Parliament, and an order issued for rescinding all grants made in his favour, since the meeting of the preceding Parliament. Ex- asperated at this treatment, he entered into a conspiracy for the destruction of the new king ; but the plot being discovered, the accomplices dispersed. The Duke of Surrey, with some others, being seized at Cirencester by the inhabitants, was there, in a tumultuous manner, put to death in the market-place, in Ja- nuary, SURREY. nuary, 1400 ; and his head being sent to London, was set upon the bridge. On this occasion Thomas Fitz-alan, son of Richard, the tenth earl, (whose attainder had been reversed in the first Parliament of Henry IV.) being restored to the estates of his family, resumed also the title of Earl of Warren and Surrey. He married Beatrice, illegitimate daughter of the king of Portugal, and in I Henry V, was ap- pointed constable of Dover castle. Warden of the Cinque ports, and Lord Treasurer of England. He died in 1415, without any surviving issue, leaving his three sisters, Elizabeth, Joan, and Margaret, his heirs. After his death the title lay dormant more than thirty-five years, when it was revived in the person of John Mowbray, son of John, Duke of Norfolk, and great grandson of Elizabeth, eldest sister of the late earl; who, in 1451, his father being then living, was created Earl of Surrey, He died at Framlingham, in Suffolk, in 1476, leaving an only child, Ann, contracted to Richard, Duke of York, second son of Edward IV. though not more than two years old. In 1477, this Richard, was created Earl of Warren and Surrey. The tra- gical end of this prince is too well known to need repetition. His countess also died without issue, and the posterity of Elizabeth, co-heiress of the Fitz-Alans, by her son John de Mowbray, hav- ing thus become extinct, the honors of the family were revived in the issue of Margaret, her daughter. This lady had married Sir Robert Howard, a knight of a very ancient and honourable fa- mily, and John, her son by him, w^as, I Richard HI. created Duke of Norfolk. At the same time Thomas Howard, son of this John, was created Earl of Sur- rey ; and though this nobleman was attainted 1 Henry VII. yet that politic prince was so sensible of the prudence, gravity, and fidelity, of his character, that he soon received him into favour, appointed him one of his privy-council, restored him to the title of Earl of Surrey, and all the lands which belonged to his wife's inheritance. His valour and conduct at the battle of Flodden Field, in 1513, procured him the farther restitution to the duke- D 2 dom, SURREY. dom of Norfolk, and other honors. He died in May 1524, and his eldest son Thomas succeeded him in his several titles, having been pre- viously created Earl of Surrey, at the same time that his father was restored to the dukedom. Of this nobleman a brief account has been given in a preceding part of this volume.* Dying in 1554, he left his honors and estates to his grandson Thomas, whose father, Henry, Earl of Surrey, had been sacri- ficed to the malice oi the enemies of his family, during the life- time of the late duke. In the 1st of Queen Mary, he was fully restored in blood, and created a knight of the garter by Queen Elizabeth, whose favor he for many years enjoyed; but being suspected of too great a partiality for Mary Queen of Scots, and even of a design to marry her, he was tried on this charge, and also on a pretence of otherwise conspiring against the crown and dignity of her implacable rival, and executed in 1572. By hi» attainder, the earldom of Surrey became forfeited, with his other titles, and lay dormant till 1 James I. when it was revived in the person of Thomas, grandson of the late duke ; and since that time it has been enjoyed, without interruption, by the illustrious house of Norfolk. The following is a list of such places in this county as have been the capital residence of Barons, by tenure or by writ of sum- mons ; or have given title to peers, created such by letters pa- tent, t Addington. B. Aquillon, William, by tenure of this ma- nor. 18 Henry III. Extinct on his son's death,14 Edward 1. 1286. 2. Bardolph, Hugh, by tenure. Extinct by at- tainder, 6 Henry IV. 1405. Lagham. » See Suffolk, p. 287. t lu this list, •xtracted from Manning's «UbOfate history, Bstande for Ba- ron : V. for Viscount ; and E for Earl. SUREEY. 37 Lagliam. B. St. Jolm, John, by writ of summons, 25 Ed- ward I. 1297. Extinct from 23 Edward III. 1349. Sterborongh. B. Cobham, Henry, by writ of summons, 6 Edward II. Extinct from 46 Ed- ward III. 1372. Beechworth. B. Hussey, Roger, by writ of summons^ 22 Edward III. Extinct from 35 Ed- ward III. 1361. Shere. B. Bray, Edmund, by writ of summons, 21 Henry VIII. Extinct from 4, 5. Philip and Mary^ 1557. Effingham. B. Howard, William, by patent, I Queen Ma- ry, 1553-4. E. Howard, Francis, by patent 5 George IL 1731. Kingston. B. Ramsey, John, by patent 18 James J. 1620- I. Extinct at his death, 1624-5. Putney. B. Cecily Edward, by patent, 1 Charles I. 1625. Extinct at his death, 1638. Imber Court. B. I Carleton, Dudley, by patent, 2 Charles I. 1626. Extinct at his death, 1631-2. 2. Onslow, George, by patent, 16 George IIL 1776. Wimbledon. V. Cecil, Edward, by patent, 2 Charles I. 1626. Extinct at his death, 1638. Reygate. B. Mordaunt, John, by patent, 10 cliarles II. 1659. Guildford. 1 E. Boyle, Elizabeth, by patent, 12 Charles II. 1660. Extinct at her death. 2 Maitland, John, by patent, 26 Charles IL 1674. Extinct on his death, 1682. 3 B. North, Francis, by patent, 35 Charles II. 1683. B 3 Guildford. SURREY. Guildford. E. North, Francis, by patent, 25 George 11. 1752. Nonsuch, B. Villers, Barbara,* by patent, 22 Charles II. 1670. Extinct by death with- out issue, 1714. B. Maitland, John, by patent, 26 Charles II. 1674, Extinct on his death, 1682. V. Stanhope, William, f by patent, 15 George II. 1741-2. B. Russel, Wriothesly,i by patent, 7 Wil- liam, 1695. Clandon, W. B. Onslow, Richard, by patent, 2 George I. 1716. B.St. John, Henry, § by patent, 2 George I. 1716. B. King, Peter, by patent, 11 George I. 1725. E. William, Duke of Cumberland, by patent, 12 George I. 1726. Extinct on his death, 1765. Ripley. B. Ligonier, John, by patent, 3 George III. 1763. Extinct on his death, 1770. Cranley. B. Onslow, George, || by patent, 16 George III. 1776. Petersham. Stretham. Battersea. Ockham. Kennington The names of such gentlemen of this county as have been ad- vanced to the rank of Baronet, are as follow : Vincent, of Stoke d'Abernon, 1620. Brown, of Beech worth castle, 1627. Extinct in 1690. Abdy, • Duchess of Cleveland, t At the same time also Earl of Harrington. } His title was Baron Howland, of Stretham, and it is vested in the present Duke of Bedford. § Also Viscount St. Johu. 11 Who shortly after inherited the title of Lord Onslow, of Clandon, and was created earl in 1801. SURREY. 39 Abdy, of Chobham, 1641. More of Losely, 1642. Extinct in 1684. Scot, of Kew, 1653. Bond, of Peckham, 1658. Extinct in 1767. Evelyn, of Godstone, 1660. Extinct. Atkyns, of Clapham, 1660. Extinct in 1756. Gretham, of Titsey, 1660. Foot , 1660. Remainder to Onslow, now a peer. Stidolph, of Norbury, in Mickleham, 1660. Extinct in 1676. Stoughton, of Stougliton, in Stoke, 1660-1. Extinct in 1691-2, Bromfield, of Southwark, 1660-1. Parsons, of Epsom, 1661. Cullen, of East Sheen, 1661. Extinct, Duncumb, of Tangly, 1631. Extinct. Lloyd, of Woking, 1661-2. Extinct. Hook, of Flanchford, in Reygate, 1662. Extinct. Dawes, of Putney, 1663. Extinct in 1741. Greene, of Micham, 1664. Extinct. Temple, of East Sheen, 1665-6. Extinct in 1698. Betenson, of Wimbledon, 1666. Extinct in 1786-7. Alston of Long Ditton, 1681-2. Evelyn, of Long Ditton, 1682-3. Extinct in 1692. Shiers of Slyfield, in Great Bookham, 1684. Extinct in 1685, Edwards, of Walton upon Thames, 1691. Extinct in 1764. Buckworth, of East Sheen, 1697. Elwill, of Inglefield Green, in Egham, 1709. Extinct in 1778. Evelyn, of Wotton, 1713. Carew, of Bedington, 1714-5. Extinct in 1762. Janssen, of Wimbledon, 1714-5. Extinct in 1777. Decker, of Richmond, 1716. Extinct in 1749. Fellows, of Carshalton, 1718-9. Extinct in 1724. Frederic, of Biirwood, in Walton on Thames, 1723, Clayton, of Marden, in Godstone, 1731-2. Glynne, of Ewell, 1759. JVIawbey, of Botleys, in Chertsey, 1765. D 4 f olev 40 SURREY. Foley, of Thorp, 1767. Extinct in 1782. Barker, of Busbridge, in Godalming, 1781. Extinct in 1789. Geary, of Polesden, in Great Bookham, 1 782, Balling, of Cobham, 1783. Hoare, of Barn Elms, 1786. Darell, of Richmond hill, 1795. Turton, of Sterborough castle, 1796. Baker, of Richmond, 1796. Strachey, of Rook's Nest, 1801. Metcalf, of Ham, 1803. Watson, (now Kay,) of Richmond, 1803. Price, of Richmond, 1803. Sulivan, of Thames Ditton, 1804. Crespigny, of Camberwell, 1805. Sutton, of Molesey, 1806. Wood, of Gatton, 1808. Ecclesiastical history and government The first ec- clesiastical authority to which the county of Surrey became sub- ject was that of Wilfred, bishop of the South Saxons, who, to^ ward the close of the seventh century, fixed his episcopal see at Selsey, in Sus>sex. For five years only it formed part of his dio- cese, and was annexed to the jurisdiction of the bishop of the West Saxons, when the latter had subdued this province. At length, on the erection of Winchester into a sepai'ate diocese in 705, it became a member of that see, to which it has ever since belonged, with the exception of nine churches, that formerly constituted the deanery of Croydon, and are at this day peculiars to the see of Canterbury. Under the bishop of Winchester, as its diocesan, this county is subject to the archdeacon of Surrey, whose jurisdiction includes the whole of it, except the peculiars. This archdeaconry was founded in or before 1120, and is endowed with the rectory of Farnham, (including the chapelries of Sell, Freiisham, and Elsted, in 7 SURREY. 41 ill this county, and Bentley, in Hampshire) being rated in the king's books at 911. 13s. 6|d. a year, and charged with the pay- ment of 91. 2s. 4-^d. to the king for tenths, and twenty marcs a year to the bishop. Tlie archdeaconry of Surrey was formerly subdivided into the four deaneries of Ewell, Southwark, Guldeford, and Croydon, but from the time of the Reformation, or thereabouts, lias consisted of three only: Ewell, Southwark, and Stoke. The counly cojitains 140 parishes; 75 rectories; 35 vicarages; and 30 chapels of ease and perpetual curacies. Civil government, representation, &c. — Surrey had its own high sheriflf till about the beginning of the reign of King John, when it was joined with Sussex ; and though under some succeeding sovereigns it was occasionally under a separate juris- diction, yet it was not till 1615 that a distinct officer began to be regularly appointed for each county. It lies in the home circuit, the lent assizes being held at King- ston, and the summer assizes at Guildford and Croydon alter- nately. Surrey returns fourteen members to Parliament ; two for the county, and two for each of the boroughs of Southwark, Guild' ford, Reygate, HasVemere, Blechingly, and Gatton. The statute of the 12 Charles II. directed that out of the 70,0001, a month to be raised throughout England to defray the ex- penses of the militia, the borough of Southwark should be charged with 1841. 14s. 6d. and the rest of the county with 15651. 5s. 6d, making a total of 17501. a month. The number of private men to be raised by this county, as its due proportion of the national militia, is 800. The Lord Lieutenant is Earl Onslow, whose fa- mily, and himself, have uninterruptedly held that honourable of- fice for near a century. Surrey pays eighteen parts as its proportion of the land tax, to which the different hundreds are assessed in the following {Sums ; Hundred 1 42 SURREY. Hundred of Godlcy Z.3399 4 0 _ Woking 4066 12 11 Farnhara 1 745 1 8 6 . Godalming 2628 6 5 , Blackheath 2981 18 4 VVolton 2029 2 0 Copthorn 2982 13 3 Emley 2020 19 0 Kingston 3302 2 0 rWest 4186 9 6 Brixton East .....14902 15 3 ^ South wark 11546 18 6 Wallington 3745 11 4 Reygate , 3772 14 6 Tanridge..., 2821 15 0 Total c£66l33 0 a THE HUNDRED OF BRIXTON. This hundred forms the north-east corner of the county, being bounded on the east by Kent ; on the south by the hundred of Croydon; on the west by Kingston; and on the north separated from Middlesex by the Thames. It was anciently denominated Brixistan, which name, says Manning,* it undoubtedly received from a stone or pillar, erected by one Brixi, a Saxon proprietor in these parts, and memorable in its time as one of the boundary marks of a manor in Lambeth, belonging to the abbey of Wal- tham, in the reign of Edward the Confessor. How this hundred came also to be called Allington hundred, as it is in the older Surveys of Norden, Speed, and Seller, it is difficult to conjec- ture. In the county books, and the more modern maps of Se- nex and Bowen, it goes by the appellation of Brixton only. This hundred, with its jurisdiction and privileges, was granted by Richard II. in his 20th year to the prior and convent of Ber- mondsey^ * Hist, of Surrey, Vol. I. Introd. ill. SURREY. 43 mondsey, to whom it was confirmed by charter in 23 Henry VI. Jt lies in the deanery of Southwark, and forms two divisions, the cast and west, comprehending the following parishes: Barnes, Battersea, Bermondsey, Camberwell, Clapham, Christ Church, Lambeth, Mcrton, Mortlake, Newington Butts, Putney, Rother- hithe, St. George, St. John, St. Saviour, St. Olave, and St. Tho- mas Southwark; Stretham, Tooting, Wandsworth, and Wim- bledon. SOUTHWARK. This borough, which is commonly considered as the capital of Surrey, is itself but a suburb and appendage to tiie prodigious metropolis of the British empire. Its name, of Saxon origin, is supposed to be derived from some military work, or fortification, situated to the south of London ; and to the same circumstance is ascribed its appellation of the hurg, or borough. The principal events in which Southwark has been concerned are related in the history of London, given in a preceding volume of this work, to which, of course, the reader is referred.* It will be sufl5cient for our present purpose to state that this borougli was governed by its own bailiflf till 1327, when the city of Lon- don, finding great inconvenience from the escape of malefactors thitheiv out of the reach and cognizance of the city magistrates, obtained from Edward III. a grant of the village of Southwark, « by which the lord- mayor was constituted its bailiflf, and em- powered to govern it by his deputy. In a few years, however, the inhabitants recovered their former privileges, which they en- joyed till the reign of Edward VI. when the crown, in considera- tion of a sum of money, made a second grant of this lordship and manor, with all the royal jurisdictions, franchises, and pri- vileges, within the precincts of the borough, to the city of Lon- don. It was in consequence made a ward of the city, by the pame of Bridge Ward without, and has ever since been, nomi- nally at least, under the jurisdiction of the lord mayor, who ap- points • See Beauties, Vol. X. 44 SURREY. points a steward aud bailiff for the Borough liberty, as the dis- trict thus incorporated with the city is called. To this ward, which is not represented in the court of common council, the se- nior alderman, or, as he is termed, the father of the city, is re- moved, as to an honourable sinecure, which exempts him from the fatigues usually incurred in the other wards. Such too have been the supineness and neglect of the corporation in the maintenance of their chartered rights and privileges within this borough; that the county magistrates have been suffered to assume and re- tain, without interruption, the authority of appointing constables, licensing victuallers, and exercising other powers in Southwark, as justices of the peace for Surrey. That part of Southwark not comprehended in the Borough li- berty is called the Clink, and is in the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Winchester, who appoints a steward and bailiff, under whom this division of the borough is governed. Southwark has sent members to Parliament ever since 23 Ed- ward 1. The right of election is in the inhabitants paying scot and lot, amounting to about 3200. During the last twenty years, the honor of representing this borough has been very warmly contested. The Borough of Southwark, properly so called, embraces only the parishes of St. Olave, St. Saviour, St. John, St. Thomas, and St. George ; but from the close connection of the adjoining pa- rishes of Bermondsey, Rotherhithe, Newington, Christ Church, and Lambeth, they will here be considered as constituting, with the former, the third grand division of the British metropolis. The five parishes of which Southwark, strictly speaking, con- sists, were found, in 1811, to comprehend 61,169 inhabitants. St. Olave's church is situated in Tooley Street, near the south end of London bridge. The original edifice is mentioned so early as 1281 ; but the date of its erection is unknown. Part of this old church having fallen down in 1736, the parishioners applied to Parliament for power to rebuild it, and the present structure was finished in 1739. It consists of a plain body V strengthened SURREY. strengthened with rustic quoins at the corners, and lighted by three ranges of windows, the lowest upright, but very broad; those above them round, and tlie uppermost large and semicircu- l^r. In the tower, consisting of tliree stages, are eight bells. It is surrounded hy a plain substantial balustrade, and, like the rest of the building, lias an air of plainness and simplicity. The interior is neat, and in the west gallery is a good organ. Stow informs us, that opposite to this church, on the south side of Tooley Street, formerly stood " a great house, built of stone, with arched gates, which pertained to the prior of Lewes, in Sussex, and was his lodging when he came to London." He adds, that it was afterwards converted into an inn, known by the sign of the Walnut tree. Eastward of the church was another " great house of stone and timber,'^ says the same writer, " be- longing to the Abbots of St. Augustine, without the walls of Canterbury, which was an ancient piece of work, and seemeth to be one of the finest buiU houses on that side the river, over against the city." This mansion was first denominated Abbotts Inn ; but changed this appellation for St. Legar House, when it became the property of the family of that name, to which it was probably granted at the dissolution. In Stow's time it was di- vided into tenements. On the north side of Tooley Street, next to the Thames, is the Bridge-house, a foundation which seems to be coeval with London Bridge, having been used as a store-house for stone, tim- ber, and other materials employed in its repairs. A t the Bridge- house was also the public granary for corn in times of scarcity, as well as the city brewhouse ; and it contained ovens to bake bread for the poor. It is under the superintendance of officers, called bridge-masters, who are appointed by the city. Below the Bridge-house, on the banks of the Thames, stood the inn of the Abbot of Battle. The spot still called Battle-bridge was thus named from a bridge over a water-course flowing out of the Thames, built and repaired by this prelate, on whose ground it was situated. In the front of this mansion were the gardens belonging 4(i SURREY. belonging to it, the recollection of whose enlbellis'hraents is yet perpetuated by the Maze, and the Maze-iJond. By a charter of Queen Elizabeth, a Free Grammar School was founded in this parish, which purciiased lands and revenues for its endowment. These consist chiefly in ground-rents, in and about Horseley-down, and have been augmented by the donations of various benefactors. The concerns of this institution are un- der the management of sixteen trustees, or governors, incorpo- rated for the purpose: and the scholars, of whom there are 250 on the foundation, receive, from a head-master and three assis- tants, such an education as may fit them for the learned, or any other professions. The parish has also a Charity-School^ in which 40 girls are clothed and instructed. Eastward of St. Olave's is the parish of St. John, Horseley down, corruptedly so called from Horse-down, having been ori- ginally a grazing ground for horses. St. John's is one of the fifty new churches, ordered by act of Parliament to be built in the metropolis, and was finished in 1732, when this district was se- parated from St. Olave's, and constituted a distinct parish. The body of the church is lighted by two ranges of windows, having one of the Venetian kind in the centre. The square tower, con- taining ten bells, is surmounted with a spire in the form of a fluted Ionic pillar. The interior of this edifice is neatly decorated, and provided with a good organ. St. Thomas's Church stands on the south side of the street of the same name. It was annexed to St. Thomas's hospital, and included with that foundation ifi the grant made by Edward VI. to tliGcity of London. The church, being old and ruinous, was taken down and rebuilt in 1702. To defray the expense the sum of 30001, was appropriated from the duty on coals, and the deficien- cy matle up by the governors of the hospital. At the same time, it wfis judged necessary, in consequence of the great increase of buildings, to make the church parochial, and to erect a chapel within the hospital, for the use of the patients. The fabric is plain, constructed of brick, and lighted by a single series of largft SURREY. 47 large windows. The corners both of the church and square tower are strengthened with rustic. St. Thomas's Hospital, a )ioble and extensive charity, appro- priated to the reception of indigent persons labouring under sick- ness or accidental injuries, is situated on the east side of the Borough High-street, nor far from London-bridge. Its original foundation was owing to the destruction by fire of the priory of St. Mary Overy, in 1207; on which the monks erected, at a small distance, a temporary habitation for themselves till the monastery could he rebuilt. This edifice, on their removal to the new con- vent, was pulled down in 1215, by Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Winchester, who, induced by the superior advantages of air and water, founded another in its stead on the spot where the prior of Bermondsey had, two years before, established an alms-house for indigent and necessitous proselytes. This structure, when finished, he dedicated to St. Thomas the Apostle, and endowed with lands to the value of 3431. per annum. As the revenues of this institution were considerably increased by subsequent bene- factors, they must have been greatly underrated at its suppres- sion in 1538, when their annual value was computed at no more than 2661. 17s. 6d. This hospital being an appurtenance of the manor of Southwark, purchased in 1551 of King Edward VI. by the Corporation of London, was immediately repaired and en- larged by the city at an expense of 11001. and appropriated to the reception of poor, sick, and maimed, persons ; on which the king, in 1553, incorporated a society for its government, in common with St. Bartholomew's, Bridewell, Bethlem, and Christ's Hos- pitals. The revenues of this establishment sustained great in- jury by the fire of London in 1666, and by three subsequent con- Hagrations in Southwark in 1676, 1681, and 1689. The edifice itself having also become old and ruinous, a subscription was, in 1699, set on foot by the governors for rebuilding it on a more extensive and commodious plan, an object which, with the li- beral assistance of various benefactors, was gradually accom- plished. The new hospital consisted of three quadrangles, tp which^ SURREY, which, in 1732, was added a fourth, erected at the expense of the? funds of the charity. The entrance into the first of these quadrangles, facing tlie street, is by large iron gates, which occupy one side of the square. The other three sides are encompassed with a colonnade : the building on the north being erected in 1708, at the expense of Thomas Frederick, Esq, ; and that on the south at the charge of Thomas Guy, Esq. in 1707. An inscription upon each comme- morates the benefaction of these gentlemen, who were both go- vernors of this charity. The centre of the principal hont is of stone, and looks toward the street. On the top, under a small circular pediment, is a clock ; and beneath it, in a niche, a statue of Edward VI. A little lower on each side are niches, with figures, representing objects for whose relief the hospital is de- signed. A spacious passage leads down a flight of steps into the second court, which is by far the most elegant. In the middle of it is a good brass statue of Edward VI. by Scheemakers, the inscription in honour of that prince, also informs us that this statue was erected in 1737, at the expense of Charles Joyce, Esq. The north side of this court is occupied by the chapel, which is adorned with lofty Corinthian pilasters ; and the other three sides are surrounded by a colonnade, above which the fronts of the wards are ornamented with Ionic pilasters. The buildings of the third court are older than the others, and are entirely encom- passed with a piazza, above which rise slender Ionic pilasters with very small capitals. In the centre is a stone statue of Sir Robert Clayton in his robes as lord-mayor ; with an inscription on the pedestal, recording tliat he gave 6001. towards the rebuilding of this hospital ; and bequeathed to it in his will 23001. The fourth quadrangle is partly occupied by hot and cold baths, a surgery, theatre, apothecary's shop, brewhouse, and other of- fices. The whole establishment contains nineteen wards, and 474 beds ; and since the foundation of t])is noble charity it has afforded relief to many hundred thousand of the poor in the various disor- ders SURREY. 49 ders incident to man. Though no estates appear to have been originally annexed to it, yet the bounty of the Corporation, and other benefactors, has contributed to raise such a fund, as not only to ensure its permanence, but to extend its objects; so that the annual number of patients may be estimated at 9000, and the; expenditure at 10,0001. In 1811 the total number of in and out- patients was 9,419 ; of whom 8548 were cured and discharged, and 194 buried : 405 in-patients, and 272 out-patients, remained under cure at the end of the year. Near this hospital in St. Thomas's-street, is the kindred insti- tution of Guy*s Hospital, a monument of private munificence, to which it would be difficult to produce a parallel. It is named after its founder, Thomas Guy, a citizen and bookseller of Lon- don, who, by industry and frugality, amassed a very large for- tune;* which, when he had attained his 76th year, he deter- VOL.XIV. E mined * Mr. Guy was the son of a lighterman and coal-dealer in Ilorslejdown, and was put appienlice to a bookseller and binder. He began business with a stock of the value of about 2001. in the house which still forms the angle between Cornhill and Lombard-street, English bibles being at that time very indiflferently printed, he engaged in a scheme for printing them in Holland, and importing them into this country ; but this practice proving detrimental to the university and the king's printer, they employed all possible means to suppress it, and so far succeeded, that Mr. Guy found it his interest to enter mto a contract with them, and in consequence enjoyed a \evy extensive and lucrative trade. Being a single man, he spent a very small portion of his pro- fits. He dmed on his counter, with no other table-cloth than a newspaper, and was not more nice about his apparel. But a still more profitable conceru than his trade was opened to his active mind during Queen Anne's wars, when he is said to have acquired the bulk of his fortune by the purchase of seaman's tickets. For the application of this fortune to charitable uses, the public," says Highmore, in his History of the Public Charities of London, " are indebted to a trifling circumstance. He employed a fennale servant whom he had agreed to marry. Some days previous to the intended ceremony he had ordered the pavement before his door to be mended up tu a particular stone which he had marked, and then left his house on business. This ser- ▼si3t, in his absence^ looking at the workmeo^ saw a broken stone beyond this mark 50 SURREY. mined to apply to this benevolent purpose. He accordingly took of the governors of St. Thomas's Hospital a lease of a piece of ground opposite to that edifice for 999 years, at thirty pounds per annum. This spot was covered with small houses, which were removed in the following spring ; and such was the expedition employed in tlie erection of the building, that it was roofed before the death of the founder, which happened in December 1724, in his eighty-first >ear. The expense of erecting and furnishing this hospilal amounted to 18,7931 ; and Mr. Guy, by his will, endowed it with the unappropriated residue of his estate, wliicii amounted mark wliicli tliej had not repaired, and on pointing to it with that design, they acquainted her that Mr. Guy had not ordered them to go so far. She, however, directed it to be done, adding, with the security incidental to her expectation of soon becoming his wife : * Tell lum I bade you, and he will not be angry.' But she loo soon learnt liow fatal it is for any one in a de- pendent situation to exceed the limits of tlicir authority ; for her master, on his return, was enraged at finding that they had gone beyond his orders, re- nounced his engagement to his servant, and devoted his ample fortune lo public charity." Mr. Guy served in several parliaments for Tainworth, in Staffordshire, where his mother was born, and where he founded alms-houses for fourteen men and women, besides bestowing considerable benefactions. The bur- gesses, however, forgetful of his services, gave iheir suffrages to an opposing candidate. They soon repented of their ingratitude, and when too lute to repair it, sent a deputation to implore his pardon, and to intreat his permis- si«n to re-elect him for the next Parliament ; but he rejected the offer on ac- count of his advanced age, and never represented any other place. Besides the large sums which Mr. Guy expended on his own hospital, and that of St. Thomas, he bequeathed to Christ's Hospital a perpetual annuity of 4001. for receiving four children yearly ; lo his poor relations he left annuities for life to the amount of 8701. and among his younger relations and exccu-^ tors 75,5891. ; lOOOl. for discharging poor prisoners within the city of Lon- don, and in the counties of Middlesex and Surrey, who could be releaicd lor five pounds ; and a perpetual annuity of 12S1. for the further support of Uis alms-houses at Tamworlh, and putting out apprentices in iljat town If, as the Apostle has taught us, chaiity covereth a multitude of sins, is it not but reasonable to believe that this has much more than atoned for tiia only foible^ parsimony, with which Mr. Guy has been charged ? SURREY. 51 amounted to 219,4991. Soon after his decease, his executors, in compliance with his wishes, applied to Parliament, and obtained an act, incorporating sixty governors, in whom the management of this charity is vested. The building, situated in a narrow street, cannot be seen to advantage. The entrance is by an iron-gate, which opens into a square, in the middle of which is a brass statue of the founder in his livery gown, by Scheemakers, with this inscription on the front of the pedestal : THOMAS GUY, SOLE FOUNDER OF THIS HOSPITAL IN HIS LIFE TIME, A. D. MDCCXXI. On the west-side of the pedestal is represented, in relievo, the parable of the good Samaritan ; on the east, our Saviour healing the impotent man ; and on the south are Mr. Guy's arms. The buildings consist of a centre and two wings; the latter being erecjted after the decease of the founder, on an additional piece of ground obtained on lease from St. Thomas's Hospital. The former is devoted to the reception of patients : and behind it is a small neat edifice for lunatics. In the centre of one wing are a spacious hall and rooms for public business ; and in the other a neat chapel, in which is a finely executed statue of the founder, by Bacon. The wings contain the houses of the principal offi- cers ; besides which there is a theatre for medical lectures, a li- brary well furnished with professional works, and a collection of anatomical preparations. The whole comprehends thirteen wards, and 411 beds. The out-patients also, to whom relief is extended by this institution, are very numerous. St. Saviour's Church, con>monly called St. Mary Overcy, originally belonged to a nunnery founded by a female, prior to the Norman Conquest, and endowed by her with the profits of the f^rry across the river at this place before the erection of London- bridge. This house was afterwards converted into a college for E 2 priests. 52 SURREY. priests, by whom the first bridge over the Thames was built df wood, and kept in repair, till they were enabled, by the munifi- cence of benefactors, to supply its place by another of stone. In 1106 the college was transformed into a priory of canons regular; but these were scarcely settled, when the bishop of Winchester brought in secular canons in their stead. Henry I. gave them the church of St. Margaret-on-the-Hill, by a charter, which was confirmed by Stephen. In the conventual church Peter de la Roche founded a large chapel, dedicated to St. Magdalen, which was afterwards used as the parish church of the neighboring inhabitants. The revenues of this priory at its surrender in 1539, were valued at 6241. 6s. 6d. per annum. Some considerable re- mains of this edifice are still distinguishable. It stood near the end of London-bridge, with the west aspect fronting the ruins of the palace of the bishops of Winchester. Abutting upon the north-west angle of the west front of the church, is a gate- way leading into the precincts of the priory, the archway of which is in the Tudor style, and not very rich. Here is a very fine and spacious crypt, about 100 feet by 25, running north and south, and attaching itself to the north transept of the church. The plan is in two aisles, marked by octangular columns, sup- porting excellent groinings most curiously constructed at each end of the arrangement. The masonry also is admirable, and in the best possible state, though it appears to be coeval with the church> Over the crypt is the remnant of what is supposed to have onoe been a sumptuous apartment, probably the dormitory, as the number of small windows yet remaining would seem to denote. These relics of antiquity are now used as repositories for coals and lumber. On the suppression of this priory the inhabitants of Southwark purchased the church belonging to it, which was by charter ap- propriated to the joint use of the parishioners of St. Mary Mag- dalen and St. Margaret, by the name of St. Saviour's. This church is built upon the plan of a cathedral, though of smaller dimensions, its length being 269 feet, and the other parts in pro- portion. SURREY, 63 portion. A relic only of tlie original architecture's to be per- ceived, and that is in the interior of the west front of the church ; as all the rest of the fabric exhibits the styles in use between the thirteenth and sixteenth centurie^, which are also found adopted in the remains of the monastic dwellings on the north side of the priory. The south side has a fine porch in the early style of the edifice, with a double entrance formed by columns,with rich capi- tals, and other embellishments. The tower, standing in the centre*, rises in three stories, the walls finishing with battlementK, and being adorned at the angles with turrets and spires. It was from this tower that iiollar took his celebrated views of London both before and after the great fire in 1666. This church has three chapels: our Lady's, or the New Cha- pel, at the east end of which is run out a small monumental cha- pel, and which, after this edifice became parochial, was let for upwards of sixty years by the church- wardens for the purposes of a bake-house : St. John's, now the vestry, on the north sjide of the choir, and St. Mary Magdalen's on the south side. In Our Lady's Chapel, a grave stone ten feet in length, on which was formerly a border and a figure in brass, of a bishop in his pontifical habit, is supposed to cover the remains of the cele- brated William of Wykeham, Bishop of Lincoln, and afterwards of Winchester, who died in 1395. Eastward of the altar is the monument of Lancelot Andrews, Bishop of Winchester, wlio died in 1626, aged 71. His efligy, in full proportion, habited as a prelate of the order of the garter, lies on a tomb of black and white marble. At his feet are his arms within a garter, between two small figures of Justice and Fortitude. Here also is a pleasing mural monument from a design of Mr. J. Soane, to the memory of Abraham Newland, Esq. late cashier to the Bank of England, who was interred here November 28, 1807. In the north side aisle is a curious monument for Gower, one of the earliest English poets, and a benefactor of this church, to the rebuilding of which he contributed about the year 1400. The E 3 sfatue 54 SURREY. statue is of the first costume sculpture, but lying in the usual prostrate devotional attitude. On the wall are painted three female fig:ures, crowned with du(5al coronets, representing Pity, Mercy, and Charity, and a distich in old French underneath each. The inscription, beneath which are some monkish Latin rhymes, is as follows : *' Hie jacet Joannes Gower Armiger, Anglorum Poeta celeberri- mus, ac huic sacro edificio benefactor insignis temporibus, Edw. III. et Rich. II.*' At the end of the north transept is the figure of a very ancient cross-legged knight, carved in oak, but which, by a ridiculous perversion of the original intent, is now set up against the wall. In St. Saviour's church-yard, is a Free Grammar School, * founded at the charge of the parish by authority of Queen Eliza- beth in 1562. The school-house was burned down in 1676, but rebuilt in a handsome style. It is endowed for a master and usher, and is free for such poor children as are natives of this parish. Adjoining is a Free English School, founded by Doro- thy Applebee, about 1681, for thirty poor boys of this parish, to be instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic. Contiguous to the priory of St. Mary Overy formerly stood Winchester House, the town-residence of the prelates of that see. It was erected about the year 1107, by Bishop GifFard, and was one of the most magnificent structures in the city or suburbs of London. It continued to be the abode of his successors till the beginning of the seventeenth century, when it was forsaken for the more agreeable residence at Chelsea. During the civil wars in the reign of Charles I. this edifice was for some time a prison for royalists; and, among the rest, the celebrated Sir Kenelm Digby, who here wrote his book on " Bodies/' and amused himself with chemical experiments, and making artificial stones in imitation of emeralds, rubies, &c. In 1649 it was sold by the Parliament to Thomas Walker, of Camberwell, for 43801. In the indenture of sale was included the park belonging to this man- sion ; but, reverting at the Restoration to the rightful owner, the house smurv. house was for the greatest part rlrmolislirf!, and its site, as well as the park, leased out to different persons, io the great emolument of the see of Winchester. Vain would be the attempt to determine ihe extent and ar- rangement of this pahice from its present remains. The site was probably divided into two or more grand courts, the principal of which appears to have had its range of state apartments fronting the river; and part of this range is now almost the only elevation that can be traced. Though its external decorations on the north, or river front, have been either destroyed, or bricked up ; yet in the other, facing the south, are many curious door-ways and windows in various styles, from that of the early pointed, down to the sera of Henry \TI. but wofully mutilated, and concealed by sheds, stables, and warehouses. In the gable at the west end of this range, is a large circular window, which, for delicacy of form and beauty of workmanship, is surpassed by few. Its style proclaims it to be of the time of Edwnrd HI. This portion of the edifice is supposed to have formed a magnificent chamber of state. What is now denominated Bankside was formerly a range of dwellings licensed by the Bishops of Winchester for the repair of incontinent men to the like women,** and denominated the Bordello, or Stew-houses. These brothels were subject to va- rious laws and regulations enacted by Parliament, among wliich we find the following : that they were to be kept shut on holi- days ; that no married woman should be received into them 'y that no man should be drawn or enticed thither ; and that no stew- holder should keep any woman who had " the perilous infirmity of burning," or sell bread, ale, fish, or any victuals. In 4 Richard II. these houses, then belonging to Sir William Wal- worth, Lord Mayor of London, were rented of him by frocs, or bawds of Flanders, and Were destroyed by the Kentish rebels un- der Wat Tyler*. It seems highly probable, that resentwient for E 4 the * For an account of the devastations committed by these insurgents, see Vol. X. p. 162—178. 56 SURREY. the personal injury sustained on this occasion might have had its share as well as loyalty in producing the action for which Wal- worth is particularly distinguished. The ordinances respecting these houses were, however, again confirmed by Henry VI. hut in 1506, as Fabian informs us, they were for some time unin- habited. It was not long before they were again opened, that is, so many as were permitted ; " for whereas before were eigh- teen houses, from thenceforth were appointed to be used but twelve only." These privileged stews had signs painted on the fronts which looked towards the Thames, as the Boar's Head, the Cross Keys, the Gun, the CardinaPs Hat, &c. Stow relates, that the women who frequented them were forbidden the rights of the church, and excluded from Christian burial, unless they ■were reconciled to it before they died. A plot of ground called the Single Women's Church-yard, at some distance from the parish church, was therefore appointed for their interment. In 1546, these stews were suppressed by Henry VIII. and it was proclaimed by sound of trumpet, that they should be no longer pri- vileged and used as a common brothel, but that the inhabitants were to keep good and honest rules as in other places of this realm. The Clink was a gaol for the confinement of such as should brabble, fray, or break the peace on the said bank, or in the brothel-houses/' This prison still exists, and has been represented as a filthy, noisome dungeon. The Bishop of Winchester's steward tries pleas of debt, damages, or trespass, within the Clink liberty for any sura. On the Bank-side was situated the principal theatre of its time, - called the Glohe, where the plays of our inimitable Shakspeare were first represented. The contrast which these early places of dramatic entertainment must form with those of the present day is evident from a passage in Stow, who relates, that in 1613, " by negligent discharging of a peale of ordnance*' in this theatre, *' the thatch tooke fire, and the wind sodainly disperst the flame round about, and in a very short time the whole building was quite consumed, and no man hurt, the house being filled with people SURREY. people to behold the play of Henry VIII. And the next spring it was new builded in far fairer nianner tlian before/* Tliis play* bouse is said in the Magna Britannia *, to have been used only iu the summer months^ on account of its situation on the banks of the Thames. Near the site of the Globe, the memory of which is yet re- tained in Globe Alley, was the Bear Garden, Herein/' sayi Stow, *' were kept beares, hulls, and other beastes, to be bay ted; as also mastives in several kennels nourished to bayt them. These beares and other beastes are there kept in plots of groau4 scaffolded aljout for the beholders to stand safe." It appears;, that in this district, during the reign of Queen Elizabeth, there were two of these Bear-gardens, one of which, as we are informed by the writer just quoted f, being over crowded on a Sunday, in 1583, fell down during the performance, by which accident many persons were killed or maimed ; a friendly warning, he adds, to such as delight more iu the cruelty of beasts than in the works of mercy. Bear-baiting was in that age an amusement for persons of the highest rank X- One of the new bridges for which acts of Parliament have re- cently been obtained is designed to cross the Thames from the bottom of Queen Street to Bank-side ; and to be called the Southwark Bridge ; it is also proposed to form a handsome street from the foot of it to St. Margarets Hill. Should this plan be carried into effect, it cannot fail to produce a material improvement in this district of the Borough. Contiguous to Winchester House, on the south, formerly stood the residence of the Bishops of Rochester. It was pulled down in 1604, and on the site were erected several tenements, whicli, during CromweU's usurpation, were sold to Robert Walter, who held them till the Restoration, when they reverted to the former owner. ♦V.341. t Chronicle, p. 659. % In the continuation of Stow's Chronicle by Howes, is a curious account «f a baiting of wild beasts in 1608, before King James I. and the whole Royal Family, not excepting the Queen and the Princess Elizabeth. 58 SURREY. owner. Near the same spot was also the house of the Abbots of Waverley. Not far from St. Saviour's church is the Borough Market, a spacious area, surrouuded with stalls and other conveniences for the sale of various kinds of provisions, especially vegetables, the principal market for flesh being on the west side of the Borough High Street. In Deadman's Place, on the West side of this market, is a hospital, or college, founded in the reign of Elizabeth, by Thomas Cure. It consists of sixteen rooms for as many poor men and women of St. Saviour's parish, each of whom has 20d. a week. To this institution a cliapel is attached ; and here are also habitations for six other poor persons, founded by different bene- factors. At the end of the High Street is St. Margaret's Hill, the site of the ancient church of the same name, which, being forsaken on the union of the parish with St. Saviour's, was converted into a Sessions House and prison, since removed to Mill Lane, and de- nominated the Borough Compter. The whole has lately been rebuilt, but has nothing worthy of particular notice. In the front facing Blackman Street, which is a continuation of the High Street, the hustings for the election of representatives for this borough are usually erected. On the opposite side of the street was the Tahard Itm, which was the residence of the Abbots of Hyde, in Hampshire, whenever business, or their parliamentary duty, required their presence in the metropolis. This was the house celebrated by Chaucer as the place of rendezvous for pil- grims repairing to Becket's shrine at Canterbury ; and the very building described by him existed till 1676, when it was burned with tlie Sessions House, and other contiguous edifices. When rebuilt it was ignorantly called the Talbot, under the idea that this was the same with Tabard, and by that appellation it still continues to be known. * On * Tulh(^t was a name formerlj' given to a particular kind of dog ; a Tabard is a coat without sleeves, ancientlj' worn hy noblemen and others, but the use of which is now confined to the Heralds at Arms. SURREY. 59 On the east side of Blackman Street is the Marshalsea, a court of law and a prison, originally intended for the determination of causes and differences between the king's menial servants, and under the controul of the knight-marshal of the royal house- hold. It had particular cognizance of murders and other offences committed within the king's court. To this place also persons • guilty of piracies, and other offences on the high seas, are com- mitted, though the offenders are tried at the Old Bailey. The ju- risdiction of this court extends to the distance of twelve miles round Whitehall, excepting the city of London, for actions of debt, damages, trespasses, &c. but liable to be removed to a higher tri- bunal when the subject of litigation exceeds the value of five pounds. The prison which contains about sixty rooms is too small, and much out of repair. Southward of the IVIarshalsea, and on the same side of the street, is the parish church of St. George the Martyr. The original edifice was of very ancient foundation, and belonged to the Abbey of Bermondsey, to which it was given in 1122, by Tho- mas Arderne. Being in a very ruinous state, the parisliioners ob- tained, an Aet of Parliament for taking down the old church, and erecting another ; in consequence of which the present structure was begun in 1734, and finished in 1736. Tbe principal en- trance to this church is at the Avest end which faces the street, and to which there is an ascent by a flight of steps. Above the door is a semicircular pediment, supported by Ionic columns : and on each side of this pediment, which rises to the Iteight of tlie roof, the front is adorned with a balustrade and vases. From this part rises the tower, whicli, like the body of the building, is strengthened with rustic quoins. A series of Ionic columns, raised upon the tower, support the base of the spire, which has ribs on the angles and openings in all the faces. Tlie interior is com- posed of a nave and two aisles, with gailf ries on the north, south, and west sides, in the latter of which is a good organ. The ceil- ings are handsomely decorated, and the whole is well lighted by a double range of windows. In i*URREY. In the oW church was interred Edward Cocker, the celebrated arithmetician, and the infamous Bishop Bonner, who died mise- rably in the Marshalsea, in 1569, is said to have been buried in the church-yard under the east window. Opposite to St. George's Church, formerly stood Suffolk Place, a magnific&nt mansion, erected in the reign of Henry VIII. by Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, who exchanged it with the king for the palace of the Bishop of Norwich, in St. Martin's in the Fields. Its name was then altered to Soutliwark Place, and it was used as a Royal Mint for the coining of money. It •was afterwards given by Queen Mary to the see of York as a re- compence for York House, which her father had forcibly taken from it; and was sold by Archbishop Heath, who, with the pro- duce, purchased another residence for himself and his successors. This mansion was then pulled down, the site was converted into streets, and still retaining the name of the ?*Iint, the inhabitants assumed a privilege of protection from arrests, on which it became for many years the retreat of bankrupts and fraudulent debtors. Though this privilege was taken av/ay by Parliament, in the reign of William III. it was nevertheless maintained by violence in de- fiance of the law, till totally suppressed under George I. In Union Street, northward of the Mint, is Union Hall, a handsome structure, appropriated to the purposes of a police of- fice ; and at the south-east end of Blackman Street, in Horse- monger Lane, is the County Gaol and House of Correction for Surrey. The premises formerly devoted to the purposes of this prison were situated near St. George's Oliurch, and called the White Lion, from having once been an inn, bearing that sign. The present spacious edifice was erected on the suggestion of the benevolent Howard, and contains a good room for a court-hall, a chapel, offices, and other suitable accommodations. Upon the platform, on the top of this prison, executions are performed, Here in 1802, Colonel Despard, and six of his associates, convict- ed of high treason, underwent the sentence of the law ; and in March SURREY. 61 March 1812, two British seamen taken in arms against their coun- try in the Isle of France suffered the same fate. At the south-west corner of Blackman Street, is the King's Bench Prison, a place of confinement for debtors, and for all other persons sentenced by that court to suffer imprisonment. It consists of one large pile of brick buildings, comprehending 224 rooms : the south centre has a pediment, under which is a chapel. The place enjoys all tbe accommodations of a market, and is surrounded by a brick wall, about thirty feet high, de- fended by chevaux de /rise, without which the marshal, or keeper of the prison, has very handsome apartments. The liberties, or rules, as they are termed, extend about three miles round the pri- son, and the right of residing in any part of them may be pur-^ chased by debtors at the rate of ten guineas for the first hundred pounds, and about half as much for each succeeding hundred pounds of the sums for which they are in custody. Three day- rules may be obtained in every term for 4s. 2d. the first day, and 3s. lOd. the others; but these authorise the prisoner to go out on those days only for which they are bought. In both cases good se- curity must be given to the marshal. Prisoners in any other gaol may remove hither by Habeas Corpus, The parish of Christ Church was taken out of that of St. Saviour, and was originally part of the district called the Liberty of Paris Garden. The first church was erected at the expense of Mr. John Marshal of Southwark, and finished in 1671, when he endowed it with an estate of 601. per annum towards the support of the minister. ' The steeple and spire, 120 feet high, were not completed till 1695. This edifice, in consequence of the badness of the foundations, soon became so ruinous, that in 1737, Mr. Marshall's trustees applied to Parliament for power to rebuild it, with the sum of 25001. which had accumulated in their hands from the trust, and obtained an act for that purpose. The present structure was accordingly erected. It stands on the west side of the road leading from Blackfriars Bridge, is a plain brick building, 7 62 SURREY* building, lighted by two ranges of windows, and bas a squarii* tower, containing eight bells, and surmonnted by a cupola. In this parish is a Charity School for thirty boys and twenty girls, maintained by subscription, a Workhouse, and a xiedX Alms- house, in Church Street, founded about the year 1730, by Charles Hopton, Esq. for twenty-six decayed house-keepers, each of whom has an upper and lower room, with 101. per annum, and a chaldron of coals. At the foot of Blackfriars Bridge is a range of buildings, which formerly constituted part of the Albion Mills. This extensive concern was set on foot by a company of spirited and opulent individuals, with a view to counteract the impositions but too fre- quently practised in the grinding of corn. It was furnished with a steam-engine, contrived by Messrs. Boulton and Watt of Bir- mingham, which turned ten pair of stones, each grinding nine bushels of corn in an hour without intermission day or night ; besides which, it gave motion to the various apparatus for hoisting and lowering the corn and flour into and out of the barges, for fanning the corn to keep it free from impurities, and for sifting and dressing the meal, from its first state, till perfectly cleared for the use of the baker. On the 3d of March, 1791, the whole building, with the exception of the corner wing, occupied as the house and offices of the snperintendant, was reduced to ashes, together witli 4000 sacks of flour which it contained. The front remained for many years unrepaired, but has lately been formed into a row of handsome private habitations. On the opposite side of Albion Place is the house belonging to the British Plate Glass Manufactory. This company, in- corporated by Act of Parliament, in 1773, carry on a flourish- ing concern here, and at their works at Ravenhead in Lancashire. On the west side of Blackfriars Road, very near the bridge, is the building a few years since occupied by the Museum, col- lected by the late Sir Asliton Lever, and removed hither from Leicester Square, when it became the property of Mr. Parkinson. 9 This SURREY. 63 This curious, extensive, and valuable, collection here experienced the most mortifying neglect, till in 1806 it was finally dispersed by public auction, in a sale whicli lasted forty days. The pre- mises are now occupied by the Surrey Institution^ one of those useful establishments recently formed in the metropolis for the diffusion of science. Its object comprises a series of lectures, extensive library, and reading-rooms, a chemical elaboratory, and philosopliical apparatus. A supplementary library has also been collected, aud the books belonging to it may, under certain restric- tions, be perused at the houses of the subscribers. The pro- prietors are limited to 700, and pay 50 guineas for each share, which entitles them to personal admission, and a transferable ticket. The Surrey Chapel, on the east side of Blackfriars Road, is a large octagon building, for the use of Protestants of the Metho- dist persuasion, and was erected by the friends of the worthy, but eccentric, Rowland Hill, who here preaches to very crowded au- ditories. The structure is well adapted for the purpose of hear- ing, and is capable of holding near 5000 persons. Tlie organ by Elliot, is not more remarkable for the sweetness of its tone, than for the extent of its powers, which are so great, that in one of the hymns descriptive of thunder, many of the congregation are said to have fainted. Farther southward, and on the west side of the street, stands I he Magdalen Hospital, for the reception, maintenance, and em- ployment, of such unliappy females as are desirous of quitting a life of prostitution. On its first establishment in 1758, this insti- tution occupied a house in Prescott Street, Goodman's Fields, which, in a few years, was found too small to satisfy the number of applications for admission. In 1769, the present edifice was in consequence erected. It consists of four low brick buildings en- closing a quadrangle with a ba^on in the centre. Tlie chapel is an octagonal structure, erected at one of the corners in the rear ; and to give an uniform appearance to the court, a building with a similar front is placed at the opposite corner. This institution is calcu- SURREY. calculated for the accommodation of about eighty penitents at one time. On their first admission these females are received into a probationary ward ; they are separated according to their different descriptions and qualifications; and each class is under the care of its particular assistant. The treatment of the women £S of the gentlest kind; suitable employment is provided for them, and tliey are instructed in the duties of religion. The time which they remain in the house varies according to circum- stances. Great pains are taken to discover their relations and friends, and to effect a reconciliation : but those who are desti- tute of such, are kept in the house till opportunity offers to pro- cure them the means of obtaining an honest livelihood : and no young woman, who has behaved well during her residence in the house, is discharged unprovided for. At the time of their dis- charge, they are mostly under twenty years of age. Since the establishment of this institution, in 1758, 4000 penitents have shared its benefits, and the result of actual inquiry has proved that about two -thirds of the whole number admitted have been permanently reclaimed. At the end of Blackfriars Road on the west side, near the Obelisk, is a place of public amusement, lately denominated the Royal Circus. It was first erected by subscription about thirty years ago in favor of Mr. Hughes, a riding-master, who, in con- junction with Mr. C. Dibdin, conducted it for some time with suc- cess, as an exhibition of ballets, pantomimes, and horsemanship. From some misunderstanding among the proprietors the enter- tainments ceased, and the house was shut up for many years, till it was again opened under the joint management of Messrs. Jones and Cross. Having been destroyed by fire in 1805, the edifice was rebuilt in a tasteful and ornamental manner. Under the judi- cious management «f that excellent comedian Mr. Elliston, the exhibition of horsemanship has been abolished, and with the new appellation of the Surrey Theatre, this place has acquired more af the spirit and character of the legitimate drama. The Obelisk, a plain structure of free-stone, forms in the cen- tral SURREY. 65 tral point in whicli the great south road from London, and the roads from Westminster, Southwark, Newington, and Lambeth, converge. It was erected in 1771 during the mayoralty, and in honor of Brass Crosby, Esq. who had been confined in the Tower with Alderman Oliver, for the conscientious discharge of his ma- gisterial duty. An inscription on one side of the pedestal com- memorates the cause of its erection ; on the other three sides are marked the distances from Fleet Street, London Bridge, and Westminster. Between the Obelisk and the King's Bench prison, is the school where Mr. Joseph Lancaster a few years since began to reduce to practice a system of education which has since been extensively adopted in almost every part of the kingdom. At this school, which is supported by subscription, five or six hundred children are instructed in the moral duties, reading, writing; and arith- metic, under the direction of one master. The children learn to read and write at the same time, by forming first the letters, and then words, with their fingers in sand. Throughout this process' the senior classes instruct the junior ; and emulation is excited by rewards and promotion. The unusual order and method observed in this school, and the discipline maintained without severity, procure the prompt obedience of a well regulated army. To such perfection has this plan been brought, that, according to Mr. Lan- caster, a thousand children may be taught by one master only, at the trifling annual expense of five shillings each. St. George^ s Fields, which, about half a century ago, were lit- tle better than a continued swamp, have, since the erection of Westminster and Blackfriars Bridges, been covered with a new town, containing some handsome streets, but chiefly composed of houses, raised according to the taste, convenience, or caprice, of various projectors. Very near the Obelisk, and facing Blackfriars Road, stands the ueat new building erected for the School of the Indigent Blind originally established in 1 799, in the premises known by the name »f the Dog and Duck, for the purpose of instructing persons 0£ Vol. XIV. F that 66 SURREY. that dcscriplioii lu a trade by whicli they raay be able to provide a subsistence. The present number of pupils is betyreen fifty and sixty, who are employed in the manufacture of thread, window- yash, and clothes line, hampers, wicker baskets of every descrip- tion, bear-niats, and mats for hearths and carriages. In these different articles a trade has been established, which yields to the institution a yearly profit of 6001. in aid of its expenses. At a small di&tance from the school for the blind, is the house of the Philanthropic Society, a truly excellent institution, combining the purposes of charity, industry, and police. Its object is to give a good education, with the means of acquiring an honest livelihood, to the offspring of convicted felons, or to such children as have themselves been engaged ju criminal practices. At the first establishment of this society, in 1788, the place of reception for pupils was a small house at Cambridge heath, near Hackney; but the encouragement received by the directors ena- bled them to erect the present commodious edifice, which consists of a large manufactory for the boys, and a spacious building ad- joining to it for the girls. To these was, in 1806, added a large and handsome chapel. The society has also a house at Bermond- sey, called the Reform, where all boys, who have themselves been guilty of any crime, are in the first instance placed^ till they ap- pear to be sufficiently amended for removal to the manufactory. The laller contains not only accommodations for upwards of 100 boys, but also work-shops for carrying on various trades, as print- ing, copper-plate printing, book-binding, tailors' work, rope-mak- ing, and twine-spinning, which are conducted on a large scale by different master-workmen for the benefit of tlie society. With one of these each boy is placed on admission ; and, when of a proper age, he is either bound apprentice to such master, or to some tradesman of good character. The girls are brought up for me- nial servants, and situations are procured for them as such, in respectable families. The number of children under the care of this society is about 180, of whom between fifty aiid sixty are girls. Fronting the road leading from the Obelisk towards Westmin- ster StTRREV. 67 ster Bridge the corporation of London has recently obtained of the commissioners of the Bridge-house estates a ground-plot of near twelve acres, comprehending the site of the Dog and Duck^ lately occupied by the school for the Indigent Blind. On part of this land it is intended to erect a new hospital for lunatics, in- stead of the old fabric in Moorfields, with suitable offices for the reception and care of a larger number of patients than could ever have been accommodated in Bethlem Hospital, and worthy of the munificence of the city of London. The Dog and Duck, so denominated from its sign, was former- ly a house of public entertainment, which owed its origin to a spring of purgative water that was discovered here, and was much resorted to, on account of its proximity to the metropolis. The proprietor finding it a profitable concern, was encouraged to erect a large room, which he furnished with an organ, and other attrac- tions to draw company ; but at length the violations of decency and order committed here became so flagrant, that the magistrates ordered the premises to be shut up. They were afterwards used for some time as a public kitchen for distributing soup to the ne- cessitous poor, and lastly occupied as the school for the Indigent Blind. Newington Butts is not mentioned in the Conqueror's Sur- vey; but a church at Walworth is there noticed, whence it is pro- ble that, at the rebuilding of the church on a new site, it was sur- rounded witli houses, which obtained the appellation of Neweton^ as it is called in the most ancient records, but afterwards written Newenton, and Newington. There is little doubt that the addi-. tion to its name was derived from the butts placed there for arch- ers to shoot at. It lies contiguous to the parish of St. George, at the distance of about a mile from London Bridge. The parish is of small extent, containing little more than 200 acres not co- vered with houses ; of which about fifty acres are occupied by market gardeners. The only manor in this parish is tliat of Walworth, which belongs to the Dean and Chapter of Canter- bury, F 2 The 68 SDRREY. The Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is in the peculiar Jurisdic- tion of the Archbishop of Canterbury. The old church being found too small, the greater part of it \Yas taken down, ^and its dimensions considerably enlarged. The present edifice was com- pleted in 1793; it is built of brick in the modern style. Near the altar is a monument of J. Bacon, jun. erected by the late Bishop Horsley, in memory of his second wife, with this epi- taph from the pen of that learned prelate, who is interred beside her : " Prope hunc lapidem conditum est illud omne quod caducum erat *)plimj» Riatris-familias, Sarae, secundae uxoris peramatse Samuelis Horsley, LL. D. hujus ecclesise per multos annos Rectoris; Me- tiev^nsis autem primuni, post Roft'ensis, nunc Asaphensis eccle- sise Episcopi ; Fcemina sanctimonia prsecellens, et morum comi- tate amabiiis, omnibus laudata, cara et jucunda vixit, mortua lu- ijetur. Pauperum iachrymse et pia vota, odorem ver^ divinuni spirantia, memoriam ejus condiunt. Anno setatis 54° ineunte, feria hebdomadis 2° die Aprilis 2o A. D. 1805, corpus fragile morbo hisanabili succubuit, cujus lente grassantis sa^viliam memoraudo patientiae exemplo novemdecim annos pertulerat: Visum est Deo. Opt. Max. clementissimo, vitam in continuis ferm6 doloribus actauj, morle placido et spei plena ad exitum perducere. Ubi tuus Mors aculeus ? Ubi tua Orce est Victoria ? Gloria Deo - Hallelujah. " lias voces ore moribundo proferens, in morte insHltans morti, pia mulier obdormivit. Maritus octodecim superstes menses, diem obiil feria hebdomadis 6'"* mensis Octobris die 4to. A. D. 1S06{, a)tat. 73. SepuUiis est autem una cum uxore Sara in eodem con- ditorio. Ante uxorem Saram in matrimonio habuit Mariam revc- vendi Joannis Botbam filiam ; quae viro, dum ea viveret percara, infra triennii spatium a nuptiis, morte ei erepJa est cum bis pepe- risset. Sepultajacct juxta parerites sues et sororem in coerae- terio ecclesias Alburiensis, in agro Surriensi, cujus ecclesiae mari- tus Rector erat. Filiola? partu secundo editae, quae bimula extinc" ta est, reliquiae sub pavimento sacrosancti hujus adyti humal* sunt. SURREY. 69 sunt. Filio qui priorem mater enixa est, vitarn prorogavit Dei misericurdia, Hcneagio, qui vidui patris senectutem curis assi- duis fovebat, sacerdotium gerens, et ccclesiae cathedralis paternae Prebendarius. " Sibi et suis vivens posuit Samuel Horsley, A. D. 1805.*" On the south wall is the monument of Captain Waghorn, a na- val officer, who escaped the fatal catastrophe wliicli bcfel the Royal George, and died in 1787. On the floor of the old church was, among others, the grave-stone of George Powell, who is said, by the editor of Aubrey, to have been styled King of the Gyp- sies, and to have died, in 1704, in very flourishing circumstances. The most conspicuous monument in the church-yard, is that of William Allen, a young man who was killed by the firing of the soldiers, in the riots which took place in 1768, on occasion of the confinement of John Wilkes in the King's Bench prison. The inscrij)tion asserts, that he was " inhumanly murdered by Scottish detachments from the army and there are also texts of ,scrip- ture, which seem to be applied with a high degree of rancour, as an excuse for which it must be admitted that this monument wa^t F 3 erected * This distinguished prelate, who owed bis high situatian in the church to his able defence of its doctrines, and the discrimination of his noble patron^ Lord 'fhurlow, was instituted in 1759 to the rectory of Newington, which he held till his translation to the see of Rochester in 1793. He was not only remarkable for the abilities which he evinced as a polemic divine, in his well known and successful controversy, with the celebrated Dr. Priestley, but was also highly esteemed as a matliematician, and classical scholar, and has left behind him many proofs of his talents in those departments of literature, both in separate publications, and in his contributions to the Traiisactions of the Royal Society. He published also several charges and sermons, delivered oa public occasions j and, as a preacher, was uiuch admired for his nervous lan- guage, and impressive delivery. In 1788 he was elevated to the see of St. David, in 1793 removed to that of Rochester, and in Ib0t2 translated to the see of St Asaph. As a senator he ranked in the very first class, and while % member of the House of Lords, there were few important discussions in which hjc did not take a part. He died unexpectedly of a bowel complaint at Brighthelmstone, to which place he had gone chiefly witli the intention of visiting his patron, Lord Thurlow, whom, on liis arrival; he found a corpse. 70 SURREY. erected during the violence of party rage, and in the first trans- ports of resentment, by parents who had lost an only son. The parsonage house, built of wood, appears to be very ancient, and is surrounded by a moat, over which are four bridges. Near the Elephant and Castle in this parish, is a conventicle, on the front of which ifi inscribed, in large letters. The House OF God. The congregation, by which it is frequented, profess not to differ from the church of England, except in their confix dent belief of the near approach of the end of the world. The inner walls of the building are covered with paintings, the subjects of which, says Lysons, are the dreams of the artist, who was si member of this congregation.* In this parish is a Charity School, in which thirty boys and twenty girls are clothed and educated by subscription. The school-house was built in 1775, at the sole expense of Mr. James Tracey. That for the Sunday-school was erected by subscription in 1803. The Drapers^ ^4hns-hous€S, founded in 1651 by John Walter, are also situated in this parish, which has the privilege of ap-^ pointing six of its own parishioners; the rest being nominated by the Drapers' Company. They receive monthly five shillings each, and half a chaldron of coals, to which the parish officers add a weekly pension as they see fit. Stow relates that on the oOth September 1575, there was so great a flood at Newington, that the people could not pass from the church on foot, but were obliged to be conveyed in boats to the pinfold near St. George's in Southwark. Bermondsey borders to the west on the parishes of St. John, St. George, and St. Olave, Southwark ; and to the west on those of Deptford and Rotherhithe. In this parish the Itusiness of tanning is carried on to a greater extent than in any other part of the kingdom ; and here are also many wool-staplers, fell-mon-f gers, curriers, leather-dressers, and parchment-makers. The water-side is occupied to a considerable extent, by various trades ronnected with shipping, all of which have been great sufferers by * Environs of London, I. 288. SPRREY. 71 by the removal of titiffic, in consequence of the opening of the new docks. At a place denominated the Neckinger was, for some time, carried on a manufacture of paper from sti*aw ; but the undertaking did not succeed, and the premises are now a manu- factory of Morocco leather. Here, in 1082, was founded a priory for monks of the Clnniac order, by Aylwin Child, a citizen of London ; and William Rufus gave his manor of Bermondsey to this convent. It was original- ly a cell to that of La Charite, in France, and seized, among other alien priories, by Edward IIL in 1371. A few years after- wards; it was restored to its privileges by Richard II. and made an abbey in 1399, by Pope Boniface IX. At the dissolution, in 1538, its annual revenues were valued at 4741. 14s. 4id. In this abbey died Catharine, queen of Henry V. January 3, 1436-7; and in 1486, Elizabeth, queen of Edward IV. was sentenced by an order of council to forfeit all her lands and goods, and to be confined in this place, where slie soon afterwards ended her life. The site of the abbey was granted by Henry VIII. to Sir Tho- mas Pope, who pulled down the churcli, and built a large house on the spot, which afterwards became the property and residence of tlie Earls of Sussex. Another considerable part of the site was sold to the last abbot, who had been elevated to the see of St. Asaph; aiid, having passed through several hands, is now the property of James Riley, Esq, whose mansion is denominated the Abbey House. In the garden belonging to it, he has erected an' Egyptian pyramid, on which has been placed a Saxon cross, for- merly fixed in the wall on the south side of Ihe abbey gate-way. This gate- way, together with some old buildings towards the east, consisting partly of brick, and partly of timber, intermixed with lath and plaster, was standing a few years since, and commonly called St, John*s Palace, on no better foundation than many other traditions, ascribing ancient edifices to that monarch. These, which apparently formed part of the convent, or its appur- tenances, were pulled down, together with the gateway, in 1807, for the purpose of making a new street. The Church at this place, mentioned in Domesday Survey, F 4 w^s' 72 SURREY. was doubtless the conventual church, then newly built ; for it was not till long afterwards that the monks founded a parochial church here, and dedicated it to St. Mary Magdalen. The present struc- ture was erected in 1680: it is of brick, and consists of a chan- cel, nave, two aisles, and a transept. At the west end is a low square tower with a turret. Tt contains no monuments worthy of particular notice. In the parish register the following very singular entry occurs in the year 1604. " The forme of a solemne vowe made betwixt a man and his wife. Having bene longe absent, through which occasion the wo- man being maried to another man, tooke her again as followeth : The Man's Speach : Elizabeth, my beloved wife, lam right sorie that I have so. longe absented mysealfe from thee, whereby thou shouldest be occasioned to take another man to be thy husband, therefore I do now vowe and promise, in the sight of God and this companie, to take thee againe as mine owne ; and will not only forgive thee* but also dwell with thee, and do all other duties unto thee, as I promised at our marriage. The Woman's Speach : " Raphe, my beloved husband, I am right sorie that I have in thy absence taken another man to be my husband; but here, be- fore God and this companie, I do renounce and forsake him, and do promise to keep mysealfe only unto thee duringe life, and to performe all duties which I first promised unto thee in our mar- riage." Then follows a short prayer ; and the entry concludes thus : " The first day of August, 1604, Raphe Goodchild, of the parish of Barkinge in Thames-street, and Elizabeth his wife, were agreed to live together, and thereupon gave their hands one to another, making eitherofthem a solemne vow so to doe in the presence of us, William Stere, Parson. Edward Coker, and Richard Eires, Clark.** The SIIRREY. 79 The following entry is also remarkable : " James Herriott, Esq. and Elizabeth Josey, Gent, were mar- ried Jan. 4, 1624-5. N. B. This James Herriott was one of the forty children of his father, a Scotchman." In this parish is a Free School, founded with the sum of 7001* bequeathed for that purpose by Mr. Josiah Bacon, who also en- dowed it with 1501. per annum, for the education of not more than sixty, or fewer than forty, boys. The master receives 801, per annum, the usher 501. and the remainder is appropriated to repairs. Here is also a Charihj School, established by the joint contributions of various persons, and towards which, in 1755, Mr. Nalhaniel Smith bequeathed 401. per annum. It affords education to fifty boys and thirty girls. A well-known place of entertainment in this parish was called the Bermondsey Spa, from some water of a chalybeate nature discovered there about 1770. The late Mr. Thomas Keyse had a few years before opened his premises as a place for tea-drinking, and exhibited a collection of the productions of his own pencil, which, as the works of a self-taught artist, possessed consider- able merit. About 1780 he procured a licence for musical enter- tainments, after the manner of Vauxhall, and for several years his gardens were open every evening in the summer season. Fire-works were occasionally exhibited ; and a few times in the course of the year an excellent representation of the siege of Gibraltar, consisting of fire-works and transparencies, the whole contrived by the proprietor of the gardens, who possessed consi- derable mechanical abilities. The height of the rock was about fifty feet, the length 200, and the whole apparatus covered about four acres. Mr. Keyse died in 1800, when liis pictures were sold by auction. The gardens were shut up about the year 1805, and the site has since been built upon.* Eastward of Bermondsey, on the banks of the Thames, is HoTHERHiTHE, commonly called Redriff. Lysons derives its name * Ljions' Environs of London, Vol. I. p. Si. name from the Saxon words rother, a sailor, and hyth, a harcn, ' or wharf : but in the Magtia Britannia it is said to signify Red iifke Haven* which interpretation seems to be supported by the vulgar appellation. The Churchy dedicated to St. Mary, was built chiefly by the Yoluntary subscriptions of the inhabitants in 1714 and 1715; but the tower was not finished till 1739. It is of brick, with stone quoins, and consists of a nave, chancel, and two aisles, supported by pillars of the Ionic order. The tower is surmounted by a stone spire raised upon Corinthian columns. The only monument worthy of particular notice is that of the interesting Prince Lee Boo, who fell a victim to the small-pox at the house of Captain Wilson in Paradise-row. He was interred' in the church-yard here, and on his tomb is this inscription : To the memory of Prince Lee Boo, a native of the Pelew, or Palas Islands, and son to Abba Thulle, Rupack, or king 6f the island Goo-roo-raa, who departed this life on the 27th of December, 1784, aged twenty years, this stone is inscribed by the Honourable East-India Company, as a testimony of the hu- mane and kind treatment afforded by his father to the crew of their ship the Antelope, Captain Wilson, which was wrecked off tliat island in the night of the 9th of August, 1783. *' Stop, reader, stop, let Nature claim a tear, ** A Prince of mine, Lee Boo, lies burieid here." A Free School was founded in this parish in 1613, by Peter Hills and Robert Bell, Esqs. and endowed with a small annual income, for the education of eight sons of seamen. These chil- dren are now clothed as well as educated. With this institution the Charity School, established in 1743, has been consolidated; and the permanent income arising from numerous benefactions, and aided by the subscriptions of the inhabitants, now suffice to clothe and educate forty toys, exclusively of the eight on the old * Magna Britannia, V. 343. SURREY. foundation, and twenty-five girls. In the Amicahle Society School, supported by voluntary contributions, forty-five boys are educated, but not clothed; and in a third, called The United Society School, thirty-one boys receive instruction. This last is also supported by voluntary contributions; and the school- house is built on a piece of ground given for the purpose by the Duke of Bedford in 1792. There are Sunday Schools also for forty boys and forty girls ; and a School of Industry for twenty girls, taken, according to seniority, from the latter.* In this parish began the trench which Canute is said to have <5Ut for the purpose of besieging the city of London by water; jand the channel through which the river was turned in 1173, preparatory to the rebuilding of London-bridge, is supposed by Stow to have taken the same course. Lambarde informs us, that Rotherhithe was the residence ©f King Henry IV. whilst he was cured of his leprosy : and Manning mentions two charters signed there by that monarch. f On the 1st of June, 1765, a dreadful fire broke out in a mast- yard near the church, and in a few hours consumed 206 houses. No lives were lost ; but the damage was estimated at 100,0001. In 1696, an act of Parliament passed for making a wet dock here: it was finished in 1700, and called the Great Dock. In 1725 the South Sea Company took a lease of it, intending to revive the Greenland fishery, upon which it received the name of the Greenland Dock. It afterwards became successively the property of Messrs. Wells and Mr. Ritchie, of whom it was pur- chased in 1807 by a company of merchants, the concern being divided into 1300 shares. Under the denomination of the Com- mercial Docks it has been much enlarged. A new dock of fif- teen acr6s was opened here January 22, 1812 ; so that the Com- mercial Docks now comprise an area of about forty acres of water, with wharfage and bonding-yards sufficient to receive 200 sail * Lj'sons' Environs, Vol. F. p. 560. t History of Surrey, Vol. I. p. '2'^9. 76 SURREY. Kail of ships. It is chiefly used for the bonding of timber and Baltic produce, and is still appropriated to the reception of tlie Greenland trade. Adjoining to the commercial dock another is now making, to be called the East Country Dock, and designed ^or the accommodation of the East Country and American trade. This concern is divided into shares of 1001. each. Besides these, there are nine dry docks at Rotherhithe ; and the water-side is occnpied by wliarfs and other premises connected with the sliip- ping; but all these have sustained considerable injury by the esta- blishment of the docks on the opposite side of the river. The Surrey Canal, which commences near Wilkinson^s gun- wharf in this parish, has already been noticed. In 1805, an act of Parliament was obtained for making a tunnel under the Thames. The proprietors were incorporated by the name of the Thames Archway Company ; they were empowered to raise 200,0001. in shares of 1001. and " to make certain arched- ways from the parish of Rotherhithe to some part or parts of the parishes of Stepney, Limehouse, Sbadwell, and Wapping.'* The line fixed upon for this proposed subterraneous communication was from about a mile below Rotherhithe church, to the opposite bank at the Narrow- wall, Limehouse ; and, from the consideration of various plans, it was resolved that at first a small tunnel only, eight feet "vvide, should be formed for foot passengers. Notwithstanding the dif- ficulties and interruptions experienced in the course of this work, it was carried to low-water mark on the opposite side of the river ; but a difference of opinion as to the farther plan of opera- tions arising among the directors, the work was suspended, and has not been resumed. Admiral John Benbow, and Sir John Leake, two celebrated naval commanders in the beginning of the eighteenth century, were both natives of this parish. The'former was born in Win- tershuU-street, now called Hanover-street. Lambeth may be considered as the western extremity of that portion of the metropolis situated on the south bank of the Thames. The parish is extensive, being sixteen miles in cir- cumference, 7 SURREY. 77 4^ tumference, comprehending about 4000 acres, and including-, -among others, the manors and hamlets of Vauxhall, KenningtOrt, Stockwell, and South Lambeth. The first mention made of this place in history is on occasion of the death of Hardicanute, which happened here in 1041. He expired suddenly during an entertainment given by a noble Dane on his marriage, as some relate, of poison, but others, of intem- perance, Harold, who usurped the crown at the decease of Ed- ward the Confessor, is said to have put it on his head with his owa hands at Lambeth. In 1231 Henry III. held a solemn Christmas here ; and in tlie following year, as we are informed by Matthew I*aris, the Parliament assembled at this place. Lysons thinks it probable that both these events may be appropriated to the palace of Kennington. Hubert Walter, Archbishop of Canterbury, ob- tained from King John a grant for a weekly market at Lambeth, and a fair for fifteen days, on condition that it should not be 'detrimental to the interests of the city of London ; but both have beeti long discontinued. At the time of the Conqueror's survey, Lambeth appears to have had two distinct manors : one of these, conjectured to be the same estate, afterwards called the manor of South Lambeth and Stockwell, was then the property of Earl Morton. The other, or Nortli Lambeth, had belonged to the Countess Goda, the Conqueror^s sister, by whom it was given to the see of Ro- chester. In 1197 it was exchanged by the latter for the manor of Darwent with Hubert Walter, Archbishop of Canterbury, and to that see it has ever since remained annexed. Lambeth Palace, the residence of the archbishop, situated near the Thames, is an extensive pile of irregular buildings, exhibit- ing the architecture of various ages. This palace was, in a great measure, if not wholly, rebuilt by Archbishop Boniface about 1262; but, as Lysons observes, the architecture of the chapel seems to belong to a still more early period, the windows resembling- those of the Temple churcii, whioh was built in the twelfth SURREY. twelfth century. They were formerly of painted glass, put Bp by Cardinal Morton, and represented the scriptural his- tory of the Old and New Testament. The rcpairinjj of this glass constituted one of the chars^es preferred against Arch- bishop Laud ; and the windows were destroyed ])y the Puri- tanSr Underneath is a crypt, the arclies of which, like those of the chapel, are built with stone. In the cliapel the remains of Archbishop Parker were deposited, agreeably to his own request^ «nder an altar-tomb which he had erected for himself near the communion-table. When the palace was sold in 1648 by direc- tion of the Parliament, this cliapei was converted into a dancing- room ; the monument was removed, the leaden coffin sold to a plumber, and the corpse of the venerable prelate thrown into a hole in one of the out-houses. After the Restoration it was re- moved by order of the House of Lords, and again interred in its former situation. The spot is marked by a marble slab, with this inscription : Corpvs Matthooi Archiepiscopi tandem hie quicscit. The old monument was placed in the vestibule of the chapel by Archbishop Bancroft, who caused a Latin inscription, ascribed to his own pen, to be placed upon it. In the vestry are some portraits, among which are those of Cardinal Pole ; Dr. Williams, Bishop of Chichester, 1696; Dr. Evans, Bishop of Bangor, 1707; Dr. Gardiner, Bishop of Lincoln, 1694; Dr. Whichcote, Provost of King's College; and Dupin, the writer on ecclesiastical history. The great hall, which measures ninety-three feet by thirty- eight, and has a Gothic roof of wood, was rebuilt by Archbi- shop Juxon, after the old model, at the expense of 11,5001. Tiie guard-room, fifty-six feet long, and twenty-seven and a half wide, appears to have been built before the year 1424 ; it is roofed like the hall, and contains a whole length picture of Henry Prince of Wales. The great dining-room is about thirty-nine feet long, and half as wide ; and a handsome drawing-room and dress- ing-room were added in 1769 by Archbishop Cornwallis. The 9 long SURUEY. long gallery, generally supposed to have been built by Cardiaal Pole, is ninety feet in length, and sixteen in breadth ; the wains- cot is entirely of mantled carving. Over the chimney-piece is a portrait of Luther, a fine picture of Archbishop Warham, by Hol- bein, and a portrait, said to be that of Catliarine Parr. Here are also pictures of Arclibishop Parker, an original by Lyne; Car- dinal Pole, copied from a painting in the Barberini palace at Rome : and the following among other portraits : the Archbi- shops Arundell, Chichele, Cranmer, Grindall, Whitgift, Abbot, and all the succeeding prelates from Laud to Archbishop Moore inclusive ; Pearce, Bishop of Bangor ; Mawson, Fletcher, Moor, Patrick and Gooch, Bishops of Ely ; Lloyd and Hough, of Wor- cester; Burnet, of Salisbury ; Tliomas, of Winchester ; Hoadley, painted by his second lady ; Berkeley, of Cloyne ; and Bundle, of Dei'ry. In the windows are the coats of several archbishops painted on glass ; but some of a more ancient date were removed when the fine bay-window was made by the late archbishop. The view from this window is remarkably beautiful. St. Paul's, Westminster-Abbey, and the bridge, are seen to great advantage through openings formed among the trees iu the pleasure-grounds, which exclude the rest of the city. The library occupies the four galleries over the cloisters, which form a small quadrangle. The erection of this building is ascribed by Aubrey to Archbishop Sheldon ; but it appears to be older than the foundation of the library itself, for which tbe see is in- debted to Archbishop Bancroft, who bequeathed all his books to his successors. His example was followed by Arclibishop Abbot. During the civil war this collection wa^ seized by the Parliament ; many of the books found their way into private h;ands, and the rest were given to Sion College ; but, through the iftfluence of the learned Selden, they were at length removed to Cambridge, which university, he contended, had a reversionary right to them, agreeably to the will of Archbishop Bancroft. After the Resto- ration they were claimed by Archbishop Juxon, and recovered by his m St/RREY. his successor. With the additions since made to this collection, particularly by Archbishops Sheldon, Tenison, and Seeker, it now amounts to about 25,000 volumes. The library contains a few portraits, among which is an original of Archbishop Ban- croft ; and a set of prints of all the archbishops since 1504, col- lected by Archbishop Cornwallis. The windows are adorned with some painted glass. The great tower at the west end of the cha- pel, usually called the Lollard's Tower, was built of stone by Archbishop Chichele. in the years 1434 and 1435. At the top of it is a small room wainscotted with oak, on which are several names and broken sentences in old characters cut with a knife. In the walls are fixed large iron rings, intended, as it is gene- rally believed, to confine the Lollards, and other unfortunate persons accused of heretical opinions. So much is certain, that before the Reformation the archbishops had a prison here for the punishment of ecclesiastical offenders ; and at a later period, not only the popish bishops Tunstall and Thirlby, but many other persons of rank were confined at this place. The gateway and the adjoining tower, which are of brick, were built by Archbishop Morton about 1490. The gardens and grounds, containing about thirteen acres, are laid out with great taste. They were much improved by the late archbishop, who made a convenient access to the house for car- riages through the grounds. In the garden, against the wall of the palace, are two fig-trees of the white sort, and of extraor- dinary size. They are described by Ducarel* as covering a sur- face fifty feet in height, and forty in breadth. Since this time, however, they have been twice destroyed down to the trunks by severe frosts ; but the branches have shot out again with such luxuriance, that they have attained the same height, and are at least sixty feet in width. Tradition relates, that these trees were planted by Cardinal Pole. The following archbishops have died at this place : Wittlesey, in 1375; Kemp, 1453; Dean, 1504; all buried in Canterbury Cathedral. • History of Lambeth Palace, p. 77, 78. SURREY. 81 Cathedral; Cardinal Pole, 1558; after lying in state here forty days was buried at Canterbury : Parker, 1575, buried in Lam- beth chapel; Whitgift, 1604, buried at Croydon; Bancroft, 1610, buried at Lambeth; Juxon, 1663, buried in the chapel of St. John's college, Oxford; Sheldon, 1667, buried at Croydon ; Tillotson, 1694, buried in the church of St. Laurence Jewry, London; Tenison, 1715, buried at Lambeth; Wake, 1737; and Potter, 1747, both buried ut Croydon; Seeker, 1768; Cornwal- lis, 1783; and Moore, 1805; all buried at Lambeth. Lambeth palace felt the etFects of popular fury in 1381, when the archbishop, Simon of Sudbury, fell a victim to the resent- ment of Wat Tyler and his followers. Here Cathaiine of Arra- ^on lodged for some days with her ladies on her first arrival in England ; and here her daughter. Queen Mary, who furnished this palace at her own expense for Cardinal Pole, occasionally ho- noured him with her company. At this place also. Queen Eli- zabeth paid frequent visits to arclibishops Parker and Whitgift, with whom she sometimes staid two or three days.* In 1643, the Parliament took possession of this edifice, sold the furniture, and converted the palace into a prison. At length, in 1648, it was put up to sale, and purchased with the manor for 70731. by Thomas Scott and Matthew Hardy ; the former of whom was se- cretary of state to the Protector, and was executed in 1660, as one of those who had sat on the trial of Charles L : but after the Restoration this palace reverted to the see of Canterbury. In Vol. XIV. G the * In one of these visits to Archbishop Parker, the haughty Elizabeth was guiltj- of a rudeness that would be deemed unpardonable in a private indi- vidual. The archbishop, who wrote a treatise on the lawfulness of priests marrying, had himself entered Into that slate before the statute which en- joined celibacy to the clergy was repealed. The queen, who never could be reconciled to this innovation, is said to have expressed her dislike of it «n taking leave of Mrs. Parker, after having been sumptuously entertained at Lambeth, in this coarse manner: *' Madam 1 may not call you: mistress I am ashamed to call you ; yet as 1 knovv not what to call you, yet I thank you." Harrington's View of the Stat« of the Church, p. 4. ^2 SURREY. the disgraceful riots in 1780, it was again threatened with the popular vengeance, but preserved from injury by the timely arri- val of the military. The church of Lambeth, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, stands near the river, adjoining the archiepiscopal palace. This edifice was rebuilt between 1374 and 1377. The tower of free-stone yet re- mains; but the other parts of the present structure appear to be of the age of Henry VII. and v/ere probably erected at dillierent times toward the conclusion of the 15th, and in the beginning of the 16th, centuries.* It consists of a nave, two aisles, and a chan- cel ; the east end of the north aisle was formerly called Howard's chapel, and that of the south end Leigh's : but these were incor- porated with the church when it was repaired and embellished in 1769. In one of the windows over the nave is the figure of a pedlar and his dog, painted on glass. Tradition relates that it re- presents a person of that occupation, who bequeathed to the pa- rish a piece of land now called Pedlar's Acre; but it has beeu suggested, and with great probability, that this figure was in- tended rather as a rebus upon the name of the benefactor, than as descriptive of his trade. f In the chancel are the monuments of the following archbishops: Bancroft, who died in 1610, aged 67; Tenison, 1715; Hutton, 1758, aged 65; Cornwallis, 17^3, aged 70; and Moore, 1805, aged 73; Seeker, who died in 1768, aged 75, lies buried in the passage between the church and the palace, t Aubrey « This church, as Pennant observes, witnessed a melancholy example of fallen majesty in the person of the unfortunate queen of James II. who, flying with her infant son from the iruin impending over their house, after crossing the Thames from Whitehall, took shelter beneath the ancient walls of this edifice from the rain of the inclement night of December 6, 1688. Here she waited till a common coach, procured from a neighbouring inn, ar« rived to convey her to Gravesend, whence she sailed for France, and bade an eternal adieu to these kingdoms. t Hist, of Lamb. p. 31. J For a brief account nf all these prelates, see Beauties, Vol. VIH. SURREY. S3 Aubrey has preserved several epitaphs which were formerly in the chancel, among others those of Cuthbert Tunstall, Bishop of Durham, who died in 1559;* and Thomas Thirleby, Bishop of Ely, in 1570, f In the chancel is also a monument for Robert Scott, Esq. wliose contrivance of leathern artillery contributed much to the glorious victory gained at Leipsic, by the great Gus- tayus Adolphus, of Sweden. In the Howard chapel are several memorials for persons be- longing to the noble family of that name, and a marble slab in the south aisle bears a Latin inscription, so muth worn that very few of the words are legible, in memory of the celebrated anti- quary Elias Ashmole. In the church-yard is the singular monument of the Trades- cants, erected in 1662, and repaired by subscription in 1773, when the old poetical inscription was preserved. G2 The * Bishop Tunstall was a striking example of the -vicissitudes of fortune, having been deprived, restored, and deprived again. Unlike most of the Ca- tholics in the reign of the cruel Mary, he behaved with great moderation and humanity? towards the members of the reformed churclv On the acces- sion of Queen Elizabeth, he was sent to Lambeth palace in July 1559, and committed to the free custody of Archbishop Parker, who treated him with the utmost kindness, and at his death, which happened on the 18th of No- rember following, buried him at his own expense. Tunstall was the author of several theological treatises. (Ly sons' Env. T. 213.) ' t This prelate wan introduced at court by Archbishop Cranmer, and em- ployed by Henry VIII. in some foreign embassies. He was the first and only bishop of Westminster, afterwards appointed to the see of Norwich, and thence translated to Ely. Queen Mary joined him with the blood-thirsty Bonner, in the commission for burning his former patron Cranmer, over whom he is said to have shed tears, uhile his colleague acted the part of an un- feeling inquisitor. Thirleby was ten years a prisoner in Lambeth palace, where he received the kindest treatment. On opening the ground for the in- terment of Archbishop Cornwallis, his body was found entire, wrapped in fine linen, and deposited in a leaden coffin. The face was perfect, the beard white and of great length, on the head was a silk cap, adorned with point lace, and under the arm a slouched hat with strings. The coffin was properly closed up again, and covered with a brick arch, (Appendix to the Hist, of Lamb. p. 89.) 84 SURREY. The burial-ground in the High Street was given to the parrshj, in 1705, by Archbishop Tenison. It contains the remains of Ed» ward Moore, author of " Fables for the Female Sex" and other poetical and dramatic pieces. He was also editor of the collec- tion of essays entitled The World, in which he was assisted by Horace Walpole, and other eminent literary characters. He died a few days after the appearance of the last number of this publi- cation, March 5, 1757. In the same ground is interred Thomas Cooke, son of an inn-keeper in Essex, who, devoting his atten- tion to literature, produced various works, of which his transla- tion of Hesiod is considered the best. He attacked Pope in a performance entitled the " Battle of the Poets" which procured him a niche in the Dunciad. He published several dramatic pieces, odes, a volume of poems, tlie Life of Andrew Marvel, translations of Terence and Cicero, an edition of Virgil, and some treatises on religious subjects ; was for some years editor of the Ci-aftsman, and died in extreme poverty, Jan. 1, 1757. Here also is buried the Countess de la Motte, well known for the share which she had in some mysterious transactions in the court of France just before the Revolution. She ended her days in this parish in great distress ; and a few weeks before her death, in order to avoid the bailiifs, jumped from a two-pair of stairs win- dow, by which rash act she broke her thigh, and was otherwise dreadfully maimed. Among the celebrated rectors of this parish may be named George Hooper, who died bishop of Bath and Wells ; Edmund Gibson, afterwards bishop of Loudon, well known for his many excellent and useful publications, particularly the Codex of Ec^ clesiastical Law, and an edition of Camden's Rritannia ; and Beilby Porleus, late bishop of London. The parish register records the interment of some remarkable characters of whom no monumental memorials remain. Among these is Dr. Andrew Perne, dean of Ely, and master of Peter- house, Cambridge, who is accused of having changed his religiou SURREY. 85 four limes in 12 years; * and Simon Forman, the celebrated astro- loger •]•. Lambeth seems to have been famous for the residence of G 3 persons • This divine was much given to jesting, of which the following instance is related among many others. Happening one day to call a clergyman, who was not wholly undeserving of the title, a fool, the latter threatened to corn* plain to his diocesan, the bishop of Ely. " Do," replied the doctor, " and he will confirm you." According to Fuller's account, however, he was but ill qualified to bear u jest himself. The doctor, as that writer informs us, was one day at court with Archbishop Whitgift who had been his pupil. Though tbe afternoon was rainy, yet the queen resolved to ride out, contrary to the inclination of the ladies of the court, who were to attend her on horse- back. They therefore employed Clod, the queen's jester, to dissuade her majesty from her intention. He readily undertook the task, and thus ad- dressed her majestj' : " Heaven dissuades you, it is cold and wet ; earth dis- suades you, it is moist and dirty ; heaven dissuadesyou, this heavenly mind- ed man archbishop Whitgift ; and earth dissuades you, your fool Clod, such a lump of clay as myself; ajod if neitber will prevail, here is one who is nei- ther heaven nor earth, but hangs between both, Dr. Perne, and he also dis- suades you." Hereat," continues Fuller, " the queen and the courtiers laughed heartily, whilst the Docter looked sadly, and going over with his Grace to Lambeth, soon died." The date of his burial is May, 1, 1.589. t Forman professed the joint occupation of a physician and astrologer, and was, says Lilly, " very judicious and fortunate inliorary questions and sicknesses.'* He was much consulted by all ranks of people ; among others the famous, or rather infamous. Countess of Essex, applied to him for his assistance in her wicked designs, and wrote many letters to him, in which she calls him " dear father," and subscribes herself, '* Your affectionate davghter, Frances Essex." On her trial for the murder of Sir Thomas Over- bury, a book of Dr. Forman's was produced, in which he made all his visi- tors write their names with their own hands before he would proceed to exercise his art. It is said that the recital of the names excited much mirth in the court, and that Chief Justice Coke found his own lady's name on the first leaf. Lilly tells the following curious story i by that mechanical genius Sir Samuel Morland, who considerably improved the premises f. The site of this mansion is now a di»* tillery. That well known place of public amusement Vauxhall Gar^ dens belonged, in 1615, to Jane, widow of John Vaux, between •whose two daughters the estate was divided, and passed through various hands, till both moieties were purchased about the middle ©f last century, by Jonathan Tyers, Esq. At what time this place was first opened for public resort we are not informed ; but from papers in the Spectator j, and Connoisseur §, it must have been in or before Queen Anne's time. Mr. Tyers, who held the premises on lease many years before he bought the estate, opened the Spring Gardens, as they were then denominated in 1 730, and expended large sums in their embellishment. After his death they passed into the hands of several proprietors, the principal of whom is Mr. Barrett. These gardens were, till of late years, opened every evening during great part of the summer, for the reception of company ; but they are now admitted only three times a week. The entertainments consist of music, vocal and instrumen- tal, illuminations,, and fire-works ; and refreshments of every kind may be procured. When JiOndon and its suburbs were fortified by order of Parlia- ment, * Lysons' Environs, I. 232, o. f Every part of Sir Samuel's liouse displayed the invention of the owner. The side-board in the dining-room was supplied with a largti fountain, and the glasses stood under little streams of water. His coach had a moveable kitchen ivith clock-work miichinery, with which he could make soup, broil steaks,^ or io.a&t a joint of meat, and when he travelled he was his own cook. (Norih'a Life of Lord Keeper Guildford, p. 294.) t See No. 383. $ No. 68. SURREY. 93 inent, during the civil war under Charles I. a fort was erected near Vauxhall turnpike. In a plan of the city, an engraving of which is given in Maitland*s History, it is called a " quadrant^ fort with four half bulwarks." On the road to Wandsworth, not far from the turnpike, is a spring of very clear water, called Vauxhall Well, which, it is said, ne^ ver freezes. At this place one of the new bridges, lately projected for the convenience of the increasing population of the metropolis, to be called the Rcgent^s Bridge, is designed to cross the Thame* from Millbank on the opposite side of the river. The manor of Kennington was in eleven Edward III. vested in the Crown, and afterwards made part of the Duchy of Cornwall, to which it still i^mains annexed. The manor contains about 300 acres. Lands within it descend to the youngest son, and, in de- fault of male issue, are equally divided among the daughters. At this place was a palace, occasionally inhabited by the Royal family so late as the reign of Henry VII. Camden says, that iu his time no traces of this building were left ; whence it seems pro* bable, that after it ceased to be* the residence of royalty it was taken down, and the manor-house erected on its site. This house is described in Sir Charles Harbord^s Survey of the Manor, taken in 1636, as " an old low timber building, situate upon part of the foundation of the ancient mansion of the Black Prince, and other Dukes of Cornwall after him, which was a long time iiince utterly ruined, and nothing thereof remaining but the sta- ble, 180 feet long, built of flint and stone, and now used as a barn." In 1709, the barn here mentioned was one of the re- ceptacles of the distressed Protestants from the Palatinate. In 1786, in digging near this barn for a cellar, some spacious vaults of stone were discovered, the arches of which were cemented by a substance harder than stone itself. Tlie Prince's Road is said to . have been that by which the Black Prince came to this palace from Lambeth, and a public-house in this road still bears tlie sign of that renowned son of Edward III. In 1610, Sir t Noel, m SURREY. Noel Caroii had a lease of tlie manor, consisting of 122 acresv the manor-house excepted, for 21 years; and it has since bee» let to difrereut persons: the present lessee is Sir William Clayton, Bart. Kennington gave the title of Earl to the Duke of Cumberland, son of George II. Before the erection of the new gaol in Horse- monger Lane, Southwark, Kennington Common was the usua^ place of execution for criminals tried in this part of the county. The hamlet of Stockvcll contains about 100 houses, exclusive- ly of those about Brixton Causeway, which are not considered a^- part of it. The manor anciently belonged to the Rivers, Earls of Devon, but in 1 James I. was vested in the Crown. It after- wards belonged to Sir George Chute, and was sold by the exe- cutors of one of his descendants, about the end of the 17th cen- tury, to Sir John Thorneycroft, in whose family it continued tiU 1804, when it was purchased by William Lambert, Esq. the present proprietor. The manor-house, which stood within a moat, has been completely demolished, and on its site a handsome villa ha^ been erected by Bryant Barrett, Esq. At Stockwell was erected, in 1767, a neat chapel of ease, towards which Archbishop Seeker contributed 5001. An extraordinary imposition was here practised in 1772, at the house of Mrs. Golding, which was reported to be hauntedy Numbers of people of all ranks went to witness the feats of the imaginary ghost, who caused the furniture to dance about the rooms in a surprising manner. A pamphlet published on th« subject, and entitled " The Stockwell Ghost" declares, that when Mr. Gardner, a surgeon of Clapham, came to bleed Mrs. Golding, who had fainted from fright, he desired that the blood might be kept for his inspection ; but no sooner was it congealed, than it sprung out of the bason, which presently after broke to pieces of itself. A still more mortifying circumstance was, that when some neighbours of Mrs. Golding's were asked by her to drink a glass of wine, the bottles flew in pieces before they could be un- corked. The imposture was never completely discovered ; kit in SURREY. 95. in 1790, Mrs. Golding and her daughter being both dead, the dancing furniture was sold by auction, and fetched very extrava- gant prices. John Angell, Esq. who died in 1784, left by will 60001. for the purpose of building a college at Stockwell, for seven decayed gentlemen, two clergymen, an organist, six singing men, twelve choristers, a verger, chapel clerk, and three domestic servants, which he endowed with rent-charges to the amount of 8001. per annum, besides making a provision for the subsistence of the members. Ever since the death of the testator there has been a suit in chancery respecting his will, and his intentions have of course never been carried into effect. At South Lambeth, situated between Stockwell and Vauxhall, was the residence of Sir Noel Caron. The Magna Britannia, says that it was built in the figure of half a Roman H, and pulled down in 1687 *. A small part of it, however, remained, and was occupied as an academy, under the name Caron House, till demo- lished in 1809. There are now no traces of the physic garden of the Trades- cants, which was situated near this spot, and was one of the first establishments of the kind in the kingdom. The elder Tradescant had been gardener to the Duke of Buckingham and other noble- men, and was afterwards in the service of Charles I. He tra- velled over great part of Europe and Africa, in search of new plants, and many of those introduced by him were long called by his name. A catalogue of all that were cultivated by him at South Lambeth, together with an account of his collection of cu- riosities, was published, in 1656, by his son under the title of Museum Tradescantianum, in a small volume, to which are pre- fixed portraits both of the father and son. The latter bequeathed the whole collection, and also his house at South Lambeth, totlie learned Elias Ashmole, by whom, as it is well known, the formtr was given to the University at Oxford, where it occupies the prin- cipal part of the Museum, which goes by his name, and was origi- nally built for its reception. South • Mag. Brit. V. 349, 96 surrey: South Lambeth was the residence of Dr. Ducarel, author of tlie History of Lamheth Palace,'''' The History of Croydon," and other topographical and antiquarian works, who died at his house there in 1785. The other parishes in this hundred are : Barnes, Battersca, Camherwell, Clapham, Merton, Mortlake, Putney, Streatham, Tooting, Wandsworth, and Wimbledon. Battersea gives the title of baron to the family of St. John. The church contains several monuments for that family, espe- cially one by Roubiliac for the celebrated statesman Henry St. John Viscount Bolingbroke, and his second wife, a niece of Ma- dame de Maintenon. This monument of grey and black marble IS placed against the north wall. On a black marble tablet is an inscription of considerable length, which characterizes him as " the enemy of no national party, the friend of no faction," as " distinguished by zeal to maintain the liberty, and to restore tlio ancient prosperity, of Great Britain." On each side of the in- scription are medallions with profiles in basso relievo of Lord and Lady Bolingbroke. Against the south wall is a monument for Sir Edward Wynter, who died in 1685, with a basso relievo, representing him in the act of performing two extraordinary exploits. It is related, that during his long residence in India, being once attacked unarmed in the woods by a tiger, he placed himself on the side of a pond, and when the furious animal sprung at him, he caught him in his arms, fell back with him into the water, got upoir him, and kept him down till he was drowned. This adventure^ as well as the other achievement, perhaps still more wonderful, is commemorated in the following lines ; which form part of the^ epitaph : Alone, unatni'd, a tygcF he oppress'd. And crush'd to death the monster of a beast. Twice twenty mounted Moors he overthrew Singly on foot, some wounded, some he slew, Dispers'd the rest— what more could Sarason do ? At SORREV. At the east end of the church is a neat tablet, with an inscrip- tion to the memory of Thomas Astle, who died December 1, 1802, aged sixty-eight years. He was long a distinguished member of the Society of Antiquaries, Keeper of the Records in the Tower, and one of the Trustees of the British Museum. As an author his principal publication was a Treatise On the Origin and Pro^ gress of Writing. He left a valuable collection of manuscripts, now deposited at Stow, the seat of his noble patron the Marquis of Buckingham, to whom he gave by his will the option of pur- chasing them at a fixed sum. Here also are interred, Arthur Collins, Esq. well known for his Historical Account of the Peers and' Baronets of England, and other publications, who died in 1760, aged seventy-six ; William Curtis, an eminent botanist, author of the Flora Londinensis^, &c. who died in 1799, aged fifty-six ; and the Rev. Joseph Gard- nor, late vicar of Battersea, who was distinguished for his attach- ment to the Arts. He was a constant exhibiter at the Royal Academy, published Views on the Rhine, &c. in 1788, and con- tributed the views for Williams's History of Monmouthshire. He died' at the age of seventy-nine, and was buried^ January 6, 1808. Bolingbroke House, the seat of the St. John family, v/as a spacious edifice, which is said to have contained fifty rooms on a floor. Some years after the alienation of the estate, about 1775, the greater part of the house was taken down. Among the few rooms which yet remain, is one wainscotted with cedar, re- ported to have been the favourite apartment of the celebrated Lord Bolingbroke. The pictures in the old house were sold by auction and dispersed. On the site of this mansion was, in 1788, erected a horizontal air-mill, of very large dimensions, on the same construction as Hooper's mill at Margate*. The height of the main shaft is 120 feet ; the diameter at the bottom fifty- two, anS at the top forty-five feet. This structure, originally de- signed for an oil-mill, is now employed for the purpose of grind- ing malt for the adjoining distillery of Messrs. Hodgson and Co. Vol. XIV. H by * See Beauties, Vol. VIII. 964. 98 SURREY. by whom extensive bullock-houses, capable of accommodating 600 head of cattle have been erected on the site of the garden and terrace. Shei'wood Lodge, on the banks of the Thames, is the resi# dence of Jens Wolf, Esq. late Danish consul, who has recently added to it a large gallery, in the most correct style of Doric ar- chitecture, seventy-six feet by twenty-five, and thirty in height, for the reception of his valuable collection of plaster-easts from celebrated antique statues : among the most remarkable of which, are those of the Fighting Gladiator; the Niobe; the Barbarini Faun, of which no other has been brought to England; the Dying Gladiator, and the Farnese Hercules *. Here is a wooden bridge over the Thames, built in 1771, under the direction of Mr. Holland, at the expense of fifteen proprietors, who subscribed 15001. each. Battersea was the birth-place of Henry St. John Vi»count BoLiNGBROKE, onc of the most eminent statesmen and philo- sophers of the eighteenth century, the prominent events of whose life are well known to the readers of English history, and of whom so striking a portrait has been drawn by one of the ablest of his contemporaries f. Here too he breathed his last, December 12, 1751, aged 73. At Camberwell, on the summit of Grove Hill, to which there is a gradual ascent from the village, of nearly a mile by a lofty avenue of trees, is the residence of John Coakley Lettsom, M. D. a gentleman equally distinguished for benevolence of dis- position and liberality of sentiments. It is a plain structure, with low wings, and the front is adorned with emblematical figures, in artificial stone, representing Liberality and Plenty with Flora in the centre. The library contains a choice collec- tion of about 6000 volumes, and a valuable cabii*ek of shells, insects, minerals, and various subjects of natural history. The gardens belonging to this mansion are enriched with a copious collec- * Lysons' Environs, I. 22. t The celebrated Lord Chesterfield in hh Letters to his Son.^ OF THE I ^'ivEasmr or urns Sl^RREY. ttbllectioti of exotics; and the grounds laid out with singular elegance and taste. Among the most striking of their emhel- lishrtients is a circular temple or observatory, which commands a magnificent view of the metropolis and its vicinity, and contains the mechanical instruments of the late Mr. Ferguson, and the curious models in cork by Dubourg. A fountain and a cottage on the border of a spacious reservoir, exhibit a scene at once truly beautiful and picturesque. The Cottage is supported by the trunks of eighteen oak trees, entwined with climbing ever- greens, forming a kind of colonnade. Facing it is a statue of Venus rising from the water, by Locatelli ; and over the door a representation in alto relievo of the history of Acis and Galatea, in tstatuary marble. The fountain is supplied by pipes from an ample spring issuing from the summit of the hill, and collected in a sheet of water or canal ; and rising through the centre of an elegant composition in Portland stone forms the jet d'eaui From the spring which supplies the canal, the village of Cam- berwell derives its name ; and the place where it rises tradition has marked as the spot where George Barnwell murdered his uncle ; an incident which gave rise to Lillo's well-known tra- gedy. Dulwich is a pleasant hamlet, in the parish of Camherwell, bordering upon Kent. The manor was purchased in 1606, by Edward Alley ne, Esq. This gentleman, some years after- H 2 wards, * Edward Allejne was born in London, in 1566. Fuller says that he was bred a player ; and it is certain that he went upon the stage at an early pe< riod ol life, and acquired great celebrity in his profession. Baker speaking of hini and Burbage, declares, that they were two such actors as no age must ever look to see the like." Hey wood also characterizes him as Proteus for shapes, and Roscius for a tongue. Alleyne wass.oIe proprietor of the Fortune playhouse in White Cross Street, which he built at his own expense, and was partner with Philip Henslow (whose wife's daughter he married,) in a Bear Garden at Bankside, long be- fore they purchased the ofllice of master of the king's bears. The time and oc* oasion of his retiring fromthe stage ar? alike unknown. Respecting the latter au 100 wards, began to erefit on this estate a commodious building % a collje^e, or ho^j>ital,. fro^n^ a design by Inigo. Jcnes, and haying wAjth; SjQji;^ difficulty obtained, the kijig^s letters, patent for settling lands upon it^ he executed a deed of trus^t, by, which he convey ed the manor of Duiwich and other estates tp the use of the college for ever. The chapel, was finished in IQ16, and the building b^iiig coinpleted, and, the nieinbers- of the college ap- pointed,, the solemnity of the foundation took place September 13,1619. Thjs institution, to which AUeync gave the name of Qod's Gift College, was fou^ided for a master, warden, four fel- Ipws, six poor brethren, and six sisters, all of whom must be un- married, twelve scholars, and thirty out-members. The endow- rnent consisted of the manor of Duiwich, and lands and tenements there, also in Lambeth parish, and in the parish of St. Botolph, Bishopsgate, and the Fortune theatre, then producing a revenue of about 8001. per annum. The annual rents of these estates, in. 1808, amounted to 37841. According to the statutes the master and warden must be of the blood and surname of the founder, and for want of such, of hia nanie only. On the death of the master, the warden succeeds, and a new warden duly qualified must be chosen by lot. The fellows are chosen in the same manner ; the senior performs di- vine absurd story is very gravely related by Aubrey, and other topographical writers, who say, that while personating the Devil, his Satanic Majesty, indignant at this profanation, appeared himself upon the stage, and terrified Alleyne to such a dpgree, that he immediately relinquished the profession, and made a vow to appropriate his fortune to charitable purposes, which he accomplished in the erection of Duiwich College. Tliis tale seems to have been fabricated after Alleyne's time, for Baker, his contemporary, who was too fond of enliven- ing his historjr to let such a circumstance pass unnoticed, says nothing of it. H*ving formed the plan of bis foundation, he retired to the manoi-house ori Duiwich Common, now called Hall Place. Here he superintended the erec-' tiou of his college, and spent the remainder of his days in tlie management of ^ Its affairs ; not as master, as it has been asserted ; for he appointed his kins- men Tliomas and Matthias Alleyne to be the first master and warden. He- dtod iu November 16^6, aged 60. SURREY. 101 vine i5c»rvice irt the chapel ; two others officiate as schoolmaster iind usher, and the fourth, who is a layman, as organist. Tlie poor brethren and sisters must be sixty years of age at their ad- mission : a clause in the statute excludes persons infected with a noisome disease, or decrepit in their limbs ; and if they marry, commit fornication, or adultery, they are to be expelled. These poor brethren and sisters are to be selected as vacancies occur from the thirty out-members, who must be of the parishes of 8t. Saviour Southwark, St. Botolph Bishopsgate, and St. Giles's Cripplegate, ten out of each, and for whom klms-houses were hm\i by the founder in their respective parishes. The twelve poor scholars must be from six to eight years of ag'e at their ad- mission, and be educated till they are eighteen ; when they ar^ cither to be apprenticed to some trade, or sent to the University, ^here, according to the statutes, there ought always to be four Dulwich scholars ; but notwithstanding the injunctions of Arch- bishops Wake and Potter on the subject ; the provisions for edu^ eating boys for the University have long been relinquished. The churchwardens of the three parishes above-mentioned were constituted assistants in the government of the college, and to attend the audits ; and the Archbishop of Canterbury was appoint- ed visitor. Dulwich College consists of a front and two wings, which form three sides of a quadrangle. In the centre of the front {)uilding is a long Latin inscription on black marble, record- ing the purposes and date of this foundation. The west end of the front contains the hall, kitchen, and offices on the ground- floor, and above are the apartments of the master and warden ; the east end is occupied by the chapel : which is plain, and un- ornamented, except by the altar-piece, a copy of RaphaePs Transfiguration by his pupil Julio Romano, presented to the col- lege in 1796, by Thomas Mills, Esq. of Great Saxham, in Suf- folk. In the west wing, the apartments of the sisters occupy the ground-floor, over which is the picture-gallery, 77 feet long, and 15 J wide. The contents of this gallery, which were be- ll 3 queathed 102 SURREY. queathed to the college by Mr. William Cartwright, a celebrated comedian and bookseller in London, have been treated with great contempt by Aubrey and succeeding writers ; but Lysons, who enumerates such of the paintings as are most worthy of notice, asserts, that some have much merit, and many are valuable as being original portraits of remarkable persons.'^* By the will of Sir Francis Bourgeois, a painter of considerable eminence, who died in January 1811, this collection received a valuable acces- sion ; for he bequeathed to it the whole of his pictures, besides 10,0001. to keep them in due preservation, and 2,0001. for the pur- pose of repairing the gallery for their reception. f At the south end of the gallery is the audit-room, adorned with a good full- length picture of the founder ; and adjoining is a small library^ in which are most of the books bequeathed to the college by Mr. Cartwright, The east wing, which has been rebuilt, was finished in 1740, at an expense of above 3,6001. In the centre of tlie wing, on the first floor, is the school -room, and on each side, the chambers of the fellows. Beneath are the apartments of the poor brethren, and behind the college is a garden of coi)-r siderable extent. The chapel, though built for the use of the college only, now serves as a chapel of ease for this hamlet, where all religious rites, excepting marriage, are performed. Under the chancel is a vault, in which the founder, his wife, and mother, are interred ; and which, by his direction, is exclusively appropriated as the burial- place of the masters, wardens, and fellows. For the other mem- bers of the institution, there is a cemetery situated about a quarter of a mile from the college, which is also used for tlie interment pf the inhabitants of the hamlet. In 1808, an Act of Parliament was passed for empowering the master, * Environs, I. 80. f Tlijs was not the whole extent of the benefaction of Sir Francis : he left legacies of lOOQl. each to the Principal and Chaplain of the College j and transferred to the Directors of this institution, as residuary legatees, all the rest of his property of every denomination. SURREY. 103 masiter, warden, and fellows, to grant building leases of certain lands, and to apply the surplus and fines of the premiums re- ceived in aid of the sum of 56001. which they had accumulated as a building fund, either for the complete repair of the college, the west wing of whicJi has long been in a very dilapidated state, or for rebuilding it on the present site, or any other that may be appointed by the visitor for the time being. Knights Hill, near Dulwich, tlie seat of the late Lord Thur- low, was purchased by him of the Duke of St. Alhan's. At that time there was only a farm-house on the estate, which he new- fronted, building at the same time some additional apartments. His lordship afterwards took down the whole, and erected the pre- sent mansion in a plain and simple style, under the direction of the late Mr. Holland. Clapham is situated on the skirts of a common, containing about 200 acres, which has of late years been so much improved, chiefly by ^Iraining and the judicious planting of a considerable number of forest-trees, as to have the appearance of a park. It is surrounded by villas belonging to some of the most opulent merchants in the city of London, and among others, those of Samuel, Robert, and Henry Thornton, Samuel Smith, and John Dent, Esqrs. and members of Parliament. The churjzh at the north-east corner of the common is a new building, having been finished in 1776 at an expense of 10,0001. In the south aisl* of the old church which was le-^t standing, and which, with the adjoining cemetery, is exclusively appropriated to interments, are some splendid monuments for Sir Richard Atkins, Bart, who died in 1689, and his family ; and Bartho- lomew Gierke, Dean of the Arches, and lord of the manor, who died in 1589. Here is also a marble tablet to the memory of Dr. Martin Lister, F. R. S. and physician to Queen Anne, who died February 2, 1711—12. He is well known to the learned world as a naturalist, especially by his book on shells, intituled Synopsis Conchylium, the drawings and engravings for which were executed by himself and hi$ dauglityrs, H 4 MERTOji 104 SURREY. Merton is remarkable for a convent of Augustine canons, founded in 1115 by Gilbert Norman, sheriff of Surrey. The prior of this convent had a seat in Parliament as a mitred abbot ; and through the munificence of the founder, and subsequent benefactors, it enjoyed, at the Dissolution, a yearly revenue of 9571. 19s. 4|d. It was at this place, according to Lambard, that the treaty of peace was concluded in 1217 between the Earl of Pembroke, regent of the kingdom, on the part of Henry III. and Louis, the Dauphin ; but Matthew Paris, and other writers, place this transaction at a little island in the Thames near Staines. When Hubert de Burgh, some time Chief Justice of England, being required, 16 Henry III. to give an account of his conduct and administration, found his ruin resolved upon, and despaired of vindicating himself to his judges, most of whom were his ene- mies, he took sanctuary in this house. The king ordered him to come before the court, and abide the law ; but he refused to quit his asylum, Henry being highly incensed, sent to the Lord Mayor of London, ordering him to summon all the citizens capa- ble of bearing arms, and proceed to Merton to take Burgh dead or alive. The citizens, with whom he was very unpopular, has- tened towards Merton, in number about 20,000, and the Chief Justice flying to the high altar, waited the event. In the mean time the king, through 1 he intercession of the Earl of Chester and Bishop of Chichester, was induced to alter his purpose ; the citizens were recalled, and Burgh remained in his retreat till the Archbishop of Dublin procured his enlargement. In 20 Henry III. 1235-6, a Parliament was held at this place^ when those statutes were enacted which are still known by the name of the Statutes of Merton. At this meeting also it was that the barons so resolutely withstood the insidious overtures of the prelates for the introduction of the imperial and canon laws ; their spirited reply to which will ever be remembered to their honor : Nolumus Leges Anglicc mutare. This priory was situated on the bank of the little river Wan* die. SORftEY. die, and, in its ancient state, occupied no less than sixty acres of ground. How far the zeal of the Commissioners was exercised in its demolition at the time of its surrender, or what waste may have been committed by its successive proprietors, cannot be determined. It was probably reduced to its present state, in which, however, considerable remains of the outer walls are standing, by ti»e caution of Parliament in the civil wars under Charles I. when it was judged of import ance enough to be re- ferred to a Committee in 1648, with directions for putting it into such a condition that no use might be made of it to the endau* gering of the peace of the kingdom.* In 1680 Merton priory was advertised to be lett,t and was described as containing seve- ral large rooms, and a very fine chapel. Vertue, who visited this place about 1730, mentions this chapel as being then entire, and says, that it resembled the Saxon buildings. X At present no other vestige of the edifice is left than the east window of the chapel of crumbling stone, which seems, from the style of its architecture, to have been built in the fifteenth century. § The site of this religious establishment is now a scene of active in- dustry, being occupied by three manufactories for printing cali- coes, and a copper-mill, which afford employment to a great number of hands. The parochial church, dedicated to St. Mary, has the appear- ance of great antiquity. From a manuscript in the Herald's College, it appears to have been built by Gilbert Norman, who, after the grant of the manor by King Henry I. for the purpose, erected a church here, and is said to have adorned it with pic- tures and images. Lysons observes, that from the style of the arcliitecture of the present church, there is little doubt of its feeing the original structure, and having undergone little altera- tion. lu • Journals of the House of Commons, V. 623. t Domestic Intelligencer, March H, 1680. i Vertue's MSS, in the collection of the Earl of Orford at Strawberry-hill. § An engraving of it is given in Malcolm's Views for illustrating Lysons* Environs, 106 SURREY. In. the window of the chancel are some remains of painted glass; and against the north wall of the church hangs a large picture of Christ bearing his cross. Though now much damaged, it appears to have been a good painting, and either the work of Luca Jordano, or a copy from that master. Mertm Plq^e, a modern mansion in this parisJi, was the favorite residence of the late Lord Nelson, who left it, with seventy acres of the grounds, to Lidy Hamilton, It is now by purchase the property of Asher Gohisci d, Esq. Walter de Merton was a native of this parish, and educated in the convent here ; he was appointed Keeper of the Great Seal in 1258; and 1261 Lora Chancellor of EnglanJ, which oJlice he > held above three years. From a regard to the place in which he had received his birth, and the house where he had imbibed the first rudiments of instruction, he conceived a design of en^- dowing it with considerable revenues for the perpetual support of scholastic divines. With this view he obtained of the Earl of Gloucester, as lord of the fee, his licence, dated 7th of May, 1282, to give and assign the neighboring manor of Maldon to the priory of Merton, or any other religious establishment for that pnrpose. Upon farther consideration, however, he founded, in 1261, a separate college at Maldon, intended as a seminary for the larger institution at Oxford, which is still known by his name. But, in 1270, both these societies were united by him into that at Oxford, which he completed in 1274. In the s? me year also having executed the office of cliancellor a third tinie, he was consecrated Bishop of Rochester. He died 27th October, 1277, and was buried in his own cathedral, under a marhle tomb, which was taken down in 1598 by Sir Henry Savile, Warden, and tl)e Fellows of Merton College, who erected an elegant mo- nument in its stead,* At MoRDON is Mordon Park, the property and residence of George Ridge, Esq. The house, a handsome quadrangular building, on a rising ground near the church, was originally erected ♦ See Beautki, VII. 649. SURREY. 107 erected by John Ewart, Esq. The extensive pleasure-grounds are agreeably diversified, and embellished with two fine sheets of water. In this parish is also Mordon Hall, the mansion of Sir Ro» hert Burnett, and the elegant seat and gardens of the late Abra- ham Goldsmid, Esq. who here terminated liis life in September 1810. MoRTLAKE is the burial-place of several persons of consider- able celebrity. In the church are interred Dr. John Dee, a man distinguished for his pretensions to magic and astrology, as well as by the personal friendship of Queen Elizabeth, who died at his house here in 1608, aged eighty-one; Sir John Barnard, whose zeal to promote the interests of his fellow-citizens will be remem- bered as long as his statue shall adorn the Royal Exchange, (ob. 1764) ; and Sir Brook Watson, who was created a baronet in 1803, and died in 1807. In the church-yard is the tomb of John Partridge, the well known astrologer and publisher of an almanack, who was bred a shoe-maker, and became sworn physician to Charles II. He was a native of East Sheen, and died in 1715. Here is likewise the monument of John Barber, alderman of London, who died in 1741, aged sixty-five. He was the son of a barber in the metro-p polls, and bred a printer, by which profession, and by the South Sea scheme, he acquired an ample fortune. In 1733 he served the office of lord mayor. The monuinent to Butler in Westmin- ster Abbey was erected by Mr. Barber, on which occasion Pope is said to have written these severe lines, which he proposed should be inscribed on the vacant scroll under Shakspeare*s jbust : — Thus Britain lov'd rae and preserv'd my fame, / Pure from a Barber's or a Benson's name. During CromwelPs protectorate some of his city friends, ets Lord Pack, Lord Tichbourn, and Sir John Ireton, had houses at Mortlake, SURRIY. Mortlake. From this circumstance probaMy originated the tra- dition, that an ancient mansion here, now leased to Miss Ayns- comb, was the residence of Cromweil himself. So much is cer- tain, that during the last century the house in question was inha- bited by a more amiable, though less celebrated, man, the bene- volent Edward Colston, who, in his life-time, expended more than 70001. on charitable institutions, and died here in 1721. In 1619, a manufacture of fine tapestry was established at Mortlake by Sir Francis Ci'ane. This undertaking was patro- nized by the king, who gave 20001. towards it as an encourage- ment. After the death of the original proprietor, his brother. Sir Richard Crane, sold the concern to Charles 1. and during the civil war the premises were seized by the Parliament as the pro- perty of the Crown. In the survey taken on this occasion, the Tapestry House is described as containing one room eighty -two feet in length, and twenty in breadth, with twelve looms ; another about half as long, with six looms ; and a third called the limning- iDom. After the Restoration, Charles II. intended to rovive the manufacture, and sent to Verrio to sketch the designs ; but his views were never carried into execution. East Sheen is a hamlet in this parish, seated on a rising ground considerably above the level of the river. Here are seve- ral handsome villas, the vicinity to Richmond Park, and the beauty of the surrounding country, rendering it a desirable situation. Temple Grove, formerly called Skene, or Sheen Grove, was the residence of the celebrated Sir William Temple. Here he indulged his taste for horticultural pursuits, after he had retired from the fatigue and disgust which he had experienced in his different embassies ; and the noble trees that have escaped the ravages of the axe, together with the beautiful mount and fish- ponds that ornament the estate, bear testimony, to this day, of the pains he bestowed on the improvement of his favourite resi- dieace. It was here too that he received the visits of the Prince SURREY, tm Orange at the time of tlie Ilevobiiiion ; atid one of tlie cham- bers liicing the hinge pond, and' looliijig at that time down the avenue of ftne horse-chesnut tieea, still retaijis the namo oEKing William's bed-room. The original front of the edifice w,a& iu. tiie style of Holland House ; it was erected in the year 1611, as pears from an. inscription on oak now taken, down ; but the back pait, )ivhich yet remains, is supposed to have been built by Sir William Temple, and during the time it was occupied by the Pahnerston family was called the new part. Sir Thomas Barnard purchased the estate of Lord Palraerjston, and rebuilt the principal front at considerable expense w ith corresponding taste, retaining tlie cedar floor of the little room at the south corner, where Dean Swift, and other literary friends of Sir William, occasionally employed their pens. Sir Thomas Barnard sold four acres, including the little pond at one side of the estate, to Caroline Countess Dow- ager of Buckinghamshire, and cut down several of the large trees, particularly the greater part of those which formed the avenue. These alterations considerably depreciated the value of the premises in the estimation of those who recollected them in their original state. The consequence has been, that the house, and remaining portion of the land, have been purchased by the Rev. William Pearson, late of Parson's Green, for a young gentlemen's seminary, for which it is admirably adapted ; and no expense has been spared in building school-rooms, making gravel walks, forming a play-ground, draining the wet parts, by giving the springs a proper direction in their descent into the pond^ planting ornamental fences, and erecting out-buildings to correspond with the magnificence of the house itself, so that at no former period was the estate of more value than at the present moment; and a tasteful use of the axe has given that park- like appearance to the grounds, which leaves but little regret on the mind of those who formerly witnessed the existence of the gloomy avenue. The present possessor has commenced the erec- tion of an observatory over the roof, which, when finished, will have no SURRET. liave a semi-s^lobular dome moveable on ebony rollers, so as ftr present its opening to any point in the heavens.* Putney was honored by Queen Elizabeth with frequent visits ■which she paid to a Mr. Lacy, of whom Lysons observes, that he has not been able to find any other particulars than that he was a citizen of London, and of the Clothworkers* Company. His house, situated near the river, was rebuilt in 1596, and was the property and residence of the late Mrs, D^Aranda. During^ the civil war in the seventeenth century, this place became the scene of some interesting transactions. After the battle of Brentford, when the royal army marched to Kingston, the Earl of Essex determined to follow it; a bridge of boats was constructed for the purpose between Fulham and Putney, and forts were ordered to be erected on each side of the river. In 1647 Cromwell, equally jealous of tlie Parliament and the King, who was then at Hampton Court, fixed the head-quarters of the army at Putney, for the convenience of watching them both. The houses of the principal inhabitants were occupied by the general officers, who, during Iheir residence here, held their councils in the church, and sat round the communion table; but before they proceeded to deliberation they usually heard a sermon from Hugh Peters, or some other favourite preacher. The chief ornament of this church is a small chapel at the east end of the south aisle, built by Nicholas West, Bishop of Ely, the roof of which is adorned with rich Gothic tracery, in* terspersed with the arms and initials of tlie founder. In the church-yard is interred John Toland, the celebrated deistical writer, who had lodgings at Putney during the last years of his life. Here his Pantheisticon, and most of his later works, were composed. A few days before his death, which hap- pened * The view which accompanies this description exhibits the back front, erected by Sir William Temple, and ornamented by Sir Thomas Barnard with a viranda ; which was deemed raore picturesque than the principal modern front, however accurately the elevation noight be delineated. SURRET* 111 pened on the lltli of Marcli, he wrote an epitaph for him* sielf, descriptive of the singularity of his opinions ; but it was not inscribed upon his tomb. In 1763, a piece of ground contiguous to the road from Wands- worth to Ricliraond, was given to the parish in 1763 by the Rev. Roger Pettiward, D. D. for the purpose of a cemetery. The most remarkable monument here is that of Robert Wood, Esq. who died in 1771, in his 55th year. It is ornamented with a sarcophagus of white marble, and the inscription was written at the request of his widow by the late Lord Orford. Mr. Wood was a native of Ireland; and in 1751 made the tour of Greece, Egypt, and Palestine, in company with Messrs. Dawkins and Bouverie. On his return he published two splendid works in folio, ilkrstrative of the Ruins of Palmyra and Balbec, he'mg aft' account of the ancient and modern state of those places, with a great number of engravings from drawings made on the spot. Mr. Wood was me- ditating similar publications relative to other parts of his tour, when he was appointed under- secretary of state by the late Earl of Chatham, during the whole of whose administration, as well as in that of his immediate successor, he continued in office. Mr. Wood was also the author of an Essay on the Genius of Homer ; and left behind him several manuscripts relative to his- travels. The ferry of Putney was of high antiquity, and is mentioned in Domesday Book as yielding ?. toll of twenty shillings a year to the lord of the manor. In 12 George I. an act of Parliament was obtained for building a wooden bridge at this place. The work was undertaken by thirty subscribers at 7401, each, who purchased the ferry, which produced tiie owners about 4001. per annum, for the sum of 80001. The bridge, which is 805 feet in length, was begun and finished in 1729, at an expense of 23,9751. The income, two years afterwards, was estimated at 15001. a year, and is now supposed to be about double. On Putney Heath, at a little distance from the road, a house t was was erected in 1776 by David Hartley, Esq. for the purpose erf proving the efficacy of his invention of plates for the preserva- tion of buildings from fire. The experiments were several times repeated before their Majesties, the lord mayor and aldermen of London, and many members of both houses of Parliament, with complete success ; some of the spectators remaining in perfect confidence and security in the room over that in which the fire was burning with great rapidity. This house is still standing ; and near it is an obelisk built by the city of Loudon in 1776, with inscriptions commemorating the invention. Near the obe- lisk was, in 1796, erected one of the telegraphs which form the communication between London and Portsmouth. Not far from the Fire-house was formerly a fashionable place of resort for public breakfasts and evening assemblies. The man- sion erected on its site still detains the name of the Bowlings Green House, and was for some time in the occupation of that great statesman, the Right Hon. William Pitt, who here breathed his last, 23d January, 1806. On the brow of the heath, which commands a charming prospect over the Thames and the county of Middlesex, are several handsome seats. Putney had the honour of being the birth-place of Nicholas West, Bishop of Ely, and Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, two eminent statesmen of the sixteenth century, who, though of humble parentage, raised themselves by their merits and abilities to the highest dignities. The circumstances attending the rapid elevation and tragical end of the latter must be well known to every reader of English history. Edward Gibbon was born at Putney in 1737, in the house now the property and residence of J. P. Kensington, Esq. and re- ceived the first rudiments of his education at a day-school at this place. His Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, tlie first volume of which appeared in 1776, and which was afterwards extended to six volumes in quarto, has placed him in tlie first rank as an historical writer, and is too well known to need any 9 remark » SURREY. 113 remark on its merits. From 1774 to 17S2, Mr. Gibbon repre- sented the borough of Liskeard in Parliament, and obtained a seat at the Board of Trade ; but on the abolition of that board in 1783, he retired to Switzerland, where he employed himself in com- pleting his history. When the French revolution began to dis- turb the neighbouring states, Mr. Gibbon returned to England, and died of a dropsy in January 1794. His postlinmous works, with his Memoirs written by himself, and finished by his friend. Lord Sheffield, were published by that nobleman in two quarto volumes. At the western extremity of Putney Heath is the pleasant Jiamlet of Roehampton, adorned with many elegant mansions, Jioehampton Grove, the residence of William Gosling, Esq. stands on part of the site of Putney Park. It is an elegant mo- dern structure, erected by Sir Joshua Vanneck, (now Lord Hun- tingfield,) after a design by James Wyatt, Esq. Sir Joshua, on his accession to his brother's title and estate, sold Roehampton Grove to Thomas Fitzherbert, Esq. who also expended consider- y able sums in improvements. At the termination of the lawn a fine piece of water is supplied by pipes from a conduit on Putney Common. The beauty of the surrounding country, and the neighbourhood . of Richmond Park, have caused many villas to be erected at Roehampton. The Earl of Besborough's, an elegant structure, v/as built after the designs of Sir William Chambers, and con- tained a valuable collection of antiques and pictures, which were sold by auction in 1801. Roehampton House, built about 1710 by Thomas Carey, Esq. and afterwards the residence of tlie Earl of Albemarle, is now the property of James Duncan, Esq. The saloon was painted by Sir James Thornhill, and is still in excel- lent preservation : on the ceiling is represented the feast of the gods. Here are also mansions belonging to the Marchioness of Downshire, Charles Hatchett, Esq. Mrs. Goldsmid, the widow of Benjamin Goldsmid, Esq. and Jolm Thomson, Esq. In the lane leading from Barnes Common to Richmond Park, are also Vol. XIV. I the iu SURREY. the villas of R. G. Temple, Esq, Sir Thomas Bernard, Bart, an^ the late Sir Thomas Jones, Bart. Streatham derives its name from its situation near the great Roman road from Arundel to London, strete signifying in Saxon a highway, and hatn, a dwelling. The manor of Tooting Bee in this parishy was, in the seventeenth century, the property of the Howland family : but since 1695, when it came by marriage to the noble houseW Russel, it has been the property of the Dukes of Bedford, who bear the title of Baron Howland of Streatham. The manor-house, an ancient brick mansion erected by the How- lands, was a few years since purchased, with some of the adjoin- ing lands, by the present Earl of Coventry, who pulled it down, and fitted up a small villa for his residence out of the green-house and part of the offices. On the side of the small common between Streatham and Tooting, is Streatliam Park, which belonged to the late Henry Thralc, Esq. an eminent brewer, and many years representative in Parliament for South wark, now the property of his relict, Mrs. Piozzi, (a lady well known to the literary world by various publications,) but in the occupation of Abraham Atkins, Esq. In the library are the portraits of Mr. and Mrs. Thrale, Lord Sandys, Lord Westcote, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Dr. Johnson, Edmund Burke, David Garrick, Arthur Murphy, Oliver Goldsmith, Dr. Burney, Sir Robert Chambers and Baretti, who spent many social hours together in that room. These were all painted by Reynolds for Mr. Thiale. Dr. Johnson passed much of his time beneath this hospitable roof, where he experienced that sincere respect to which his virtues and talents were entitled; and those soothing attentions which his ill health and melancholy required. The kitchen gardens belonging to this villa are remarkably exten- sive, and inclosed with a wall fourteen feet high. The grounds, comprehending- about 100 acres, are surrounded by a shrubbery S4nd gravel-walk nearly two miles in circumference. In the church, upon tablets of white marble, are Latin inscrip- tions from the pen of Dr. Johnson, to the memory of Mr, Thrale, and Mrs. Salusbury, mother of Mrs. Piozzi. The SURREY. 115 ' The chancel contains the remains of two females, each of whom, if we may believe the inscriptions which record their excellence, ihust have been the phoenix of her age. One of these, Rebecca, wife of William Lyime, died in 1653. Her husband, after enu- merating her virtues in her epitaph, concludes with these lines : Should I ten thousand years enjo}' my life, I could not praise enough so good a wife. The other, Elizabeth, wife of Major-general Hamilton, died iu 1746, after an union of near forty ^seven years, " and never did ©ne thing to displease her husband.'* Lysons has recorded some curious particulars respecting a per- son named Russell, who was buried here April 14, 1772. He •was a native of this place, and had passed for a woman as long a» the memory of any one living at the time of his death could reach, when the discovery of his real sex occasioned no small surprize in the neighborhood. From the disguise which he had assumed, his age could not be ascertained ; but from an examination of the parish register, Mr. Lysons concludes that it must have been 100 or 104 years, though, by his own statement, it was not less than 108.* On Lime Common in this parish, was, in 1660, discovered a mineral water of a mild cathartic quality, which is still held in considerable esteem, and sent in large quantities to some of the hospitals in London. Though there are no accommodations for persons who come to drink it on the spot, yet it is much resorted to by those who cannot afford a more expensive journey. Wandsworth, so called from its situation on the banks of the small river Wandle, which here falls into the Thames, has for upwards of a century been distinguished for its manufactures. At the close of the seventeenth century many French refugees settled here, and introduced the manufacture of hats, which, though much diminished in extent, still exists. Here are also manufactories 12 for * Environs, I, $07*^9. IIG SURTJLT. for bolting cloih ; for coach and livery lace ; for printing- calicoes and kerseymeres ; for whitening and pressing stiitrs ; for dyeing, in particular scarlet; iron, oil, asd white lead mills, vinegar works and distilleries. At this place commences the iron rail-way, which has been carried through Croydon to Merstham, near Rei- gate, and conveys the manufactures and produce of the eastern part of the county to the Thames. In the chancel of the church is interred Henry Smith, Esq. a man remarkable for his extensive charities to this his native county. On his grave-stone is an inscription in Latin verise, which refers the reader for an account of him to his monument on the east wall, where, underneath his effigies kneeling at a desk in the attitude of devotion, is a tablet inscribed as follows : Here lyeth the body of Henry Smith, Esq. sometime citi- zen and alderman of London, who departed this life the 30th day of January A" Dom. 1627, being then neere the age of 79 yeares, whome while he lived gave unto these several townes in Surrey following : — One thousand pounds apeece to buy lands in perpe- tuity for the relief and setting poore people on worke in the said towne, viz. to the towne of Croydon, one thousand pounds ; to to the towne of Kingston, one thousand pounds ; to the towne of Guildford, one thousand pounds ; to the towne of Darking, one thousand pounds ; to the towne of Farnham, one thousand pounds ; and by his last will and testament did further give and devise to buy lands for perpetuity and setting the poor a-worke, unto the towne of Reigate, one thousand pounds ; to the towne of Rich- mond one especialtye or debt of a thousand pounds ; and unto the towne of Wandsworth, wherein he was born, the sum of five hun- dred pounds, for the same use as before ; and did further will and bequeath one thousand pounds to buy lands for perpetuity, to redeeme poore captives and prisoners from the Turkish tyranny ; and not here stinting his charity and bounty, did also give and bequeath the most part of his estate, being to a great value, for the purchasing of lands of inheritance for ^verfor the relief of the poor and setting them a-worke : a patterne worthy the iniita- t tion SURREY. 117 tion of those wliome God has blessed with the abundance of the goods of this life, to follow him therein.*' That Mr. Smith was of very h-umble extraction, may be inferred from his leaving money to his poor kindred, by whicii he meant such of his sisters' children as were unable to help themselves : but the story of his having been a beggar, as related by Aubrey, and copied by subsequent writers, rests upon too vague a tradi- tion to be entitled to credit. Its fallacy, as far as it relates to his exclusion of Mitcham from the benefits of this charity because he was whipped out of that parish, is proved by its actual participa- tion of his bounty. He was once married, but his wife dying many years before him without issue, he conveyed, in 1620, his estates, real and personal, to trustees, for charitable purposes, reserving 5001. a year for his own maintenance. By his last will, dated April 24, 1627, he left legacies to the amount of nearly 1,0001. to various persons, among others, 200). to the Countess of Dorset, and 1001. to Lady Delaware ; 10001. to his nephew, Henry Jackson, and a like sum to his poor relations ; 10,0001. to buy impropriations for godly preachers; 1501. to found a fellowship at Cambridge for his own kindred ; besides the be- quests mentioned in the inscription on his monument. The residue of his estates, real and personal, he left to his execu- tors, to be allotted to various parishes according to tlieir discre- tion, for the purpose of setting such poor people to work as were ablej relieving the impotent with clothes and provisions ; educating children and binding them apprentices. In this dis- tribution the native county of the testator has been principally regarded.* In this church are also interred several of the noble family of Brodrick ; and among them, the two immediate predecessors of the present Viscount Middleton. 1 3 The • A statement of the parishes in tliis county which parti ke of Mr. Fniith's charity, with the amount of their respective allotments us paid in 18l)T, and ihe estates out of which they issue, may be seen in 3-,yaou!k' Environs, I. 386, 118 SCTRREY. The bridge over the Wandle at this place was erected at the expense of Queen Elizabeth in 1602. It was widened, and in a great measure rebuilt in 1757. On tlie hills on each side of Wandsworth, distinguished by the appellations of East and West Hill, are several good houses, which command fine views over the River Thames, the metro- polis, and great part of Middlesex. At West Hill, near Lord Spencer's park, is the handsome villa built by Mr. Gibson of Hackney, for the late John Anthony Rucker, Esq. and now the property of his nephew, which, from its elevated situation, is a c. nspicuous object in the neighbourhood, and enjoys a delightful prospect. The hamlet of Garrett, situated between Wandsworth and Tooting, is in the former parish, and is noted for having been the scene of a mock election which took place there many years vpon the meeting of every new parliament, when several well- known characters in low life appeared as candidates for the bo- rough of Garrett, as it was called ; being furnished with fine clothes and gay equipages for the occasion by the neighboring publicans, whose interest it was to encourage the frolic. This piece of burlesque, which furnisheil Foote with the subject of I is comedy intituled the Mayor of Garrett, was performed for the last time after the general election in 1796. In all the ancient records Wimbledon is described as a grange or farm within the manor of Mortlake, which, from the time of the Conquest, belonged to the see of Canterbury, till Archbishop Crartmer exchanged it for other lands with King Henry VIII, By that monarch it was soon afterwards granted to Thomas Crom- well, Earl of Essex; and on his attainder it was settled upon Queen Catherine Parr for her life. Cardinal Pole obtained a grant of it from Queen Mary, whose successor first gave it to Sir Chris- topher Hatton ; and again in her thirty-second year to Sir Thomas Cecil, afterwards Earl of Exeter, in exchange for an estate in Lincolnshire. The Earl left this estate to his third son. Sir Ed- wardj who was created Viscount Wimbledon and Baron of Putney, SURREY. 119 Immediately after his decease in 1638 the manor was sold by Ins representatives to the Earl of Holland, and others, as trustees for Queen Henrietta Maria. In the inventory of the jewels and pictures of Charles I. the mansion at Wimbledon is mentioned among the houses belonging to the Crown. On the sale of the crown -lands tliis manor was purchased by Adam Baynes, Esq, and soon afterwards became the property of General Lambert. This officer, as we are informed by Coke, author of a work inti- tuled The Detection, " after he had been discarded by CromwelI.> betook himself to Wimbledon House, where he turned florist, and had the finest tulips and gilliflowers that could be got for love or money : yet in these outward pleasures he nourished the ambi- tion which he entertained before he was cashiered by Cromwell'- Lambert was not only a cultivator of flowers ; he excelled also in painting them, and specimens of his skill in that art remained for some years at Wimbledon. At the Restoration this estate re- verted to the Queen Dowager, but " it smelt so strong of a rebel," says the Ma n ii 'II ' o n i: m u jk ii ii . Surrey. SURREY. are many sepulchral memorials of the Carews, for whose hurial- place a small chapel, or aisle, was erected in the 16th century, by Sir Richard, or his son Sir Nicholas. Here, among other mo- numents, is a magnificent one for Sir Francis Carew, who died in 1611, aged eighty-one. It is supported by Corinthian columns of black marble, between which lies his effigy in complete ar- mour. Against the wall of the north aisle is a tablet in a wooden frame, with a quibbling inscription, to the memory of Thomas Greenhill, B. A. steward to Sir Nicholas Carew, who died in 1634. It is headed with these words: Mors super virides monies, and concludes with the following lines: He once a Hill was fresh and Greene, Nov withered is not to be scene , Earth in earth shovell'd up is shut A Hill into a hole is put. But darksome earth by power divine Bright at last as the sonne may shine. , The hamlet of Wallington, in this parish, formerly gave name to the hundred, and is supposed to have been a place of con- siderable importance. Manning observes, that this opinion is countenanced by the foundations of ancient buildings discovered here, and in the neighbourhood at Carshalton and Beddington, together with the great number of human bones dug up at the former place ; and says, that the urns and spear-heads found near the spot leave no doubt that it was formerly possessed by the Ro- mans themselves. As an additional evidence, he appeals to the name, which he derives from the Latin vallum *. An ancient chapel, which stood in a field near the road, and is described by the same writer, was taken down about 1791. This hamlet, situated on the banks of the Wandle, is consider- ably more populous than Beddington, the latter containing only K 3 "65 houses • Manning's Surrey I. 267. 134 SURREY. 65 houses, and the former 135, the greater part of which have been erected since 1789. At Woodcote, in the parish of Beddington, now a single farm- house, Camden, Gale, and other learned antiquaries have fixed the Noviomagus of Antoninus; whilst others contend, that the place so denominated by the ancient writers, must have been in Kent. Notwithstanding all the arguments that have been ad- duced on both sides, the point still remains undecided: but so much seems to be generally admitted, that at Wallington, or Woodcoto, or somewhere between both, there was formerly a town or at least a considerable station of some kind or other. At Carshalton is MascalVs, or Carshalton Park, the pro- perty and residence of George Taylor, Esq. It was purchased at the conclusion oi the 17th century, by Sir William Scawen, whose nephew, about 1723, proposed to erect a magnificent man- sion on a rising ground in tJie park, from designs by Leoni. The materials were prepared at a great expense, but the building was never begun. In llie church of this village is a curious monument for the family of Gaynesford, who formerly had a residence at Carshal- ton, which was demolished in 1800. It consists of an altar- tomb of Purbeck marble; over it is fixed in the wall a large slab of the same material, on which are upright figures of Nicholas Gaynesford, his four sons and three daughters. These figures have been gilded and enamelled ; the enamel in which the dra- pery of the wife has been painted still remains, which is a cir- cumstance rarely to be met with in tombs of this kind. Her head-dress, of extraordinary size corresponds with otiier speci- mens of the same date ; her robe, which has loose sleeves, is red, edged with gold. Gaynesford himself appears in armour, kneeling on one knee, his gauntlet and sword are at his feet. Behind him are his four sons, the eldest of whom appears in armour as the esquire, the second is habited as a priest, and the third and fourth as merchants. This Nicholas Gaynesford was five times sheriflJ'of Surrey, and t in SURREY. 135 in high favour with Henry VII. He was one of those who attended his queen in her procession from the Tower to West- minster, previously to her coronation, wlien, as we are informed in a manuscript in the Cotton Lihraiy, he and Verney, the otlier Esquire of Honour, rode will» the Lord Mayor well horsede in gownes of cremysene velvett, having niaiitells of erniyne, and on their hedes halts of rede clothe of golde ermyne, the beher for- ward.'* The time of his death is uncertain, as his monument seems to have been executed in his lift-time with blanks for the dates, which have not been filled up. Mitcham Grove, in the parish of Mitcham, a pleasant villa, near the Wandle, was purchased by Lord Clive, and presented to Alexander Wedderburn, Esq. afterwards Lord Loughborough, in return for his celebrated defence of that nobleman in the House of Commons. It was sold by his lordship in 1789, to Henry Hoare, Esq. the present owner. At Sandersted is Sandersted Court, a mansion with a park adjoining to it, lately the property of tiie Wigsell family, who purchased of Sir John Stonehouse another seat here, called the Place House, which they pulled down, and laid the ground into their park. In the same parish is Purley, an estate on which was formerly a mansion, the residence of a family who took their name from it, but now reduced to a farm-house, remarkable as the residence of the learned author of the Diversions of Purley, whilst com- posing the work to which he gave that title. The parish of Woodmansterne, or Woodmatistone, is said by Mudge and Dalby in their Trigonometrical Survey, to be the highest ground in the county, with the exception of Leith Hill ; and so healthy is the situation, that eighteen months often pass without a burial, in a population of 150 persons. In this parish, on Bansted Downs, is The Oaks, originally an ale-house ; which was purchased by General Burgoyne, who built an elegant dining-room, and fitted up the place for a hunting- seat. It was sold by the general to the Earl of Derby, who has K 4 greatly 136 SURREY. greatly enlarged the house, and enclosed much of the adjoining common field, so that it is surrounded by plantations two miles in circumference. Here was given the celebrated fete champetre, in celebration of the earPs first marriage, which furnished General Burgoyne with the subject of u musical entertainment intituled The Maid of the Oaks. The Hundred of Tandridge forms the south-east angle of the county, bordering to the south on Sussex, to the east on Kent ; on the north it is bounded by Croydon hundred, and on the west by the same and that of Reigate. It belongs to the deanry of Ewell, and comprehends fifteen parishes : Blechivgley, Caterham, Chehham, Crowhurst, Farleigh, Godstone, Limpsfield, Lingfield, Okested, Tandridge, Tattesjield, Titsey, Warlingham, and Woldingham. Blechingley is a small borough town, not far from the foot of the great chalk- hills which divide the county. It had formerly a weekly market, which has long been disused ; but two fairs are still held here on the the 22d of June and 2d of November. To the latter, which was granted by Edward I. in 1283, are brought great numbers of horses, hogs, and lean cattle, from Scotland and Wales. According to Salmon, it was owing to the interest of the Earl of Warren, that three places so near together as Reigate, Gatton, and Blechingley, obtained the privilege of being repre- fifented in parliament, to which the latter has sent two members ever si^ice 23 Edward I. The right of election is vested in the burgage-holders resident within the; borough ; there are nfnety- seven houses within its limits, and fifty-six in what is termed the foreign, that is beyond the limits of the borough. The bai-. liff of the manor was the returning oflicer till a resolution of the; House SURREY. 137 House of Commons, in 1723, deprived him of that office; so that this place now exhibits the singularity of a borough sending two members to Parliament without any person who can claim the ex- clusive exercise of this authority. The manor, which is upwards of twenty miles iu circuit, ^rasat the time of the Domesday Survey, the property of Richard de Tonbridge, Earl of Clare, in whose family it continued to the nintli generation. It was afterwards carried by marriage to the Staffbrds, Dukes of Buckingham, and formed part of the settle- ment made by Henry VIII. on his divorced Queen Anne of Cleves. The Howards, Lords Effingham, and the Mordaunts, Earls of Peterborough, were successively owners of the estate, till in 1677, it was bought by Sir Robert Clayton, one of whose successors in 1788, sold the reversion to his maternal relation John Kenrick, Esq. and his younger brother the Rev. Jervis Kenrick is the present proprietor. The Castle is supposed to have been originally built by Richard de Tonbridge. In the reign of Henry III. his descen- dant Gilbert, surnamed the Red, having joined the disaffected barons, and commanded a division of their forces at the battle «f Lewes, in 1264, his conduct, though his party proved victori- ous, occasioned the demolition of this fortress; for the King^s forces then in garrison at Tonbridge Castle, hearing of his de- feat, sallied out on the Londoners, who had been dispersed in the beginning of the engagement, and were collecting their shattered remains at Croydon, and destroyed Blechingley Castle in their way. Whether it was ever rebuilt afterwards we are not informed. This castle stood at the western extremity of the town, on what is now a coppice, on a bold brow of a hill, commanding an extensive view of Holmsdale in every direction. In Aubrey^s time (1673) a piece of a wall was standing, but the foundations only are now to be found. The Church dedicated to St. Mary, is a large, handsome build- ing. The low, square tower contains eight bells, and had for- merly 138 SURREY. tnerly a lofty spire, 170 feet in height, supposed to contain 200 loads of oak timber, and covered with shingles; but it was burned by lightning in 1606 and not rebuilt. The church consists of a nave, with a south aisle and a double chancel ; and a transept, called Ham Chapel. The south chancel is entirely occupied by the magnificent monument of the first Sir Robert Clayton and his lady, with their whole length figures in white marble. He is re- presented in his robes as Lord Mayor of London, and with the in- signia of his office. Between them, on a curtain of white marble, is this inscription : — " Here rests what was mortal of Sir Robert Clayton, Knt. in the year MDCLXXX, Lord Mayor, and at his death Alderman and Father of tlie City of London, and near XXX years was one of its Representatives in Parliament. By the justest methods and skill in business he acquired an ample fortune, which he applied to the noblest purposes, and more than once ventured it all for his country. He fixed the scat of his family at Marden, where he hath left a remarkable instance of the politeness of his genius; and how far Nature may be improved by Art. His relations, his friends, the Hospital of St. Thomas, in Southwarl^f^ (of which he was President) Christ Church Hospital, and the Workhouse in London, were large sharers of his bounty. He lived in the Communion of the Church of England, and in the most perfect charity with all good men, however divided amongst themselves in opinions. The welfare of his country was the only aim of his public actions, and in all the various eflforts that were made in his time for preserving its Constitution, he bore a great share, and acted therein with a constancy of mind which niy prospect of danger could ever shake. It is but just that the me- mory of so good and so great a man should be transmitted to after- ages, since in all the private and public transactions of his life he hath left so bright a pattern to imitate, but hardly to be outdone. He was born at Bulwick in Northamptonshire, the XXIXth day SURREY. 139 of September, anno Dom. MDCXXIX and died at Marden the XVI day of July MDCCVII/^ * In this church are also interred the remains of Dr. John Tho- mas, Bishop of Rochester, who died in 1793, aijed eighty-two years; and those of his wife, the daughter of Sir William Clay- ton, Bart, who died in 1772. Dr. Thomas succeeded Dr. Her- ring, * The parents of Sir Robert Clayton, who liad several children, occupied a small lanu of twenty pounds a year, at Bulwick, in Novllianitonsliire. He had received no education when he came to London, where he ioon got into the service of a money scrivener in a very low capacity; and gradually rose to be a principal in his master's house. 1 he industry of a long, successful life, and a legacy equal to his own fortune, which he received from his part- ner, will sufficiently account for the great estate which he left beliind him. There is great reason to suspect the justice of Dryden's character of him in his virulent satire of Absalom and Achilhophel, and to suppose that it originated in party-motives, to which indeed that poet is well known to have prosUluted his talents. To have raised himself under such disadvantages to the chief magistracy of the metropolis, and to have conducted himself as a principal leader of the truly patriotic party in those critical and dangerous times, is an incontestible proof of Sir Robert Clayton's superior abilities. He was very active in the Exclusion Bill, in the reign of Charles II. and in all the mea- sures of the opposition of that period, and of course became very obnoxious to the court. When Lord Russel was selected as a victim to party on thai oc- casion. Sir Robert was doomed to be sacrificed to the same principles; but was saved by Lord Chancellor JefFeries, the foundation of whose fortune had been laid by Sir Robert, who had exerted his influence in procuring him the appointment of Recorder of London. He represented Blechiugiey in 1690, 1698, and 1702. In his charities Sir Robert was a pattern of munificence. He was the proposer and successful procurer of the establishment of the mathe- matical school in Christ's Hospital lor bringing up forty boys to a knowledge of navigation. Sir Robert afterwards advised with his friend Mr, Firmin about adding a ward for girls in this hospital, and gave him the sole manage- ment of the building. No one besides, even of Sir Robert's own lauiily, ex- cept his partner Mr. Morris, knew at whose charge it was carried on. When about 40001. was expended, parties running high, Sir Robert and Mr, Firmin, who had always been strenuous opposers of arbitrary power, were turned out by the other party from the government of the hospital. Mr. Firmin then broke silence, and upbraided the governors with depriving the institution of «uch a benefactor as the builder of that ward, w hose name he then declared. 140 SURREY. ring, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury, in this rectory, ^which he held till liis promotion to the see of Rochester in 1775. A Free School was founded here in 1633 by Thomas Evans for twenty poor boys of this borough. He endowed it with lands, containinn^ about . thirty acres, in the adjoining parish of Nut- field ; and Mr. Bostock, of Tandridge, gave a house and garden for the master. Here are also ten Alms-houses, chiefly built by the parish in 1668. Another was added by Dr. Charles Hampton, rector, who died in 1677, and by his will left a small rent-charge to be dis* Iributed in faggots among the inhabitants of these houses. The ancient manor-house called Blechingley-Place, stood in Brewer- street, and was the residence of Edward Duke of Buck- ingham, beheaded by Henry VIII. Some of his conversations at this house with his chancellor and Sir George Nevil, were given in evidence on his trial. It was pulled down by one of the Earls of Peterborough ; but the porter's lodge has been trans- formed into a farm-house. In the parish of Godstone, which is thirteen miles in length from north to south, is Marden Park, situated in a valley at the foot of the ciialk-hills. It was originally a farm-house till the first Sir Robert Clayton made it the residence of his family, and is now the seat of John Hatsell, Esq. Flower House, a little to the east of Godstone Green, is the residence of the Hon. George Henry Neville. Fellbridge House, a handsome mansion at the southern extremity of the parish on the borders of Sussex, was the seat of the late James Evelyn, Esq. by whom it was erected on the site of a former house called Heath Hatch. It stands in a park bounded on the south by Fellbridge Water, a small stream which divides this county from Sussex ; but thirty acres of the park are in Tandridge, though separated by Godstone from the rest of that parish. On Godslone Green, in the way to Blechingley, are two small barrows, and two in the adjoining fields on the north side of the Green. On the chalk-hill on Sir William Clayton's estate is a quarry. sorui:y. Ul quarry, which yields a kind of free-stone that is extremdly dura- ble if kept constantly wet or dry. It is used for wet-docks, ovens, and other purposes ; and with it Westminster Hall was new paved during the last century. About three miles to the south of the village of Godstone is a well of water, known by the appellation of Iron Pear-Tree Water, which has been found very efficacious in curing the gout. It is also esteemed good in bilious and other disorders. In the parish of Hourne King Athelstan is said to have had a house. If ever there was such a building, it probably stood on the site of what is now called Thunderjield Castle, a piece of ground, surrounded by two or three ditches, the outermost of which is mostly filled with water. It lies near a farm-house at Harrowsley Green, which Mr. Manning suggests may be a cor- ruption of Hai'old's-legh, from Harold, into whose possession the royal residence might possibly have come. Bysshe Court in this parish is the property and residence of John Manship Ewart, Esq. This mansion was purchased in 1788, with the manor attached to it, by his grandfather, John Ewart, Esq. an eminent distiller in London, who pulled down the old house, which was surrounded by a moat, and erected a new one near the spot, converting the whole site of the former building into a kitchen-garden, to which the moat serves as a fence. At LiNGFlELD, Reginald Lord Cobham, in 1431, obtained a licence of Henry VI. to found and endow a college, and to change the parochial into a collegiate church. He accordingly built his college at the west-end of the church-yard for a provost or master, and six chaplains besides clerks, of the Carthusian Order, whose estates, at the Dissolution, were valued at 791. 1 5s. lOfd. per annum. In Aubrey^s time this building was still standing ; and he says that he had seen no religious house whose remains were 80 entire. The first story was of free-stone, and above that it was composed of brick and timber. Within was a square court , with a cloister round it. There was a convenient handsome hall 9 and 142 SURREY. and parlour ; above the priest's table was a canopy of wainscot ; and some inscriptions were still left in the windows. This building continued standing till about the time of George I. when tlie greater part of it was pulled down, and a farra-honse erected on its site. The church of Lingficld contains some curious monuments. In the nave, immediately before the chancel, is a large altar tomb, on which lie two whole length figures of white marble of a man and woman, he in armour, with his feet resting on a dog, and his head on a helmet. A glove lies by his right side; he has no beard, and his hair is bound over the temples with a fillet. The woman's feet rest on a winged dragon, and two small angels support her head. At the east end are four shields of arms; at the west end seven ; and the same number on the north and soutli sides. Adjoining to the skreen which separates the east end of the nave from the north aisle, is another tomb without inscrip- tion : upon which lies a whole length figure of a man in armour ; his head in mail resting on a cushion, which has been supported by two small figures now mutilated. His feet rest against a small figure of a man with a long beard, and a turban on his head, which is supported by his right hand. This may perhaps refer to some exploit performed in the Crusades. The arms on the «ides of this tomb are nearly obliterated. Here are several mo- numents of the Cobham family, and also of the Howards, Earls of Effingham. In this church is also interred Sir James Burrow, Knt. F. R. S. and F. S. A. Master of the Crown Office, who died in 1782, aged eighty-one. In this parish is Sterburgh or Sterhorough Castle, which, with the manor of Sterburgh or Prinkham, was purchased in 1793 by Thomas Turton, Esq. who was high-sheriflPof the county in 1795, and was created a baronet in the following year. This estate anciently belonged to the family of Cobham, of which Reginald, wlio was created a knight banneret by Edward III. obtained a licence in the fifteenth year of that reign to imbattle snd fortify his house at Prinkham, which then received the ap- pellation SURREY. 143 pellation of Stcrburgh Castle. It afterwards descended to the Burghs, or Boroughs. During the civil war in tho^ times of Charles I. this structure was in such a state as to receive a gar- rison^ and was occupied by the forces of the Parliament ; but being situated in a part of the kingdom which was completely in their power, nothing worth recording happened here. It was one of those places which after the king's dealh the Derby House Com- mittee were directed to put in such condition that no use might be made of them to the endangering of the peace of the kingdom ; and this probably led to its demolition. Sir James Burrow, into whose possession Sterburgh Castle came about the middle of last century, had a rough drawing of the ground plan, with a vei y rude ancient map, in a corner of which is a small sketch of the eleva- tion of the Castle. It appears to have had a round tower with a dome at each corner, a drawbridge, and a court in the centre. The area, including the moat, was upwards of an acre and a half. The moat has been cleaned out by the present proprietor, pre- serving exactly its original lines, and is now a fine piece of "water, kept up by a spring rising in one of tJie farms about two miles distant. It has a constant current, and after supplying the house and offices, falls into the river Eden. Part of the present house was built by Sir James Burrow. Sir Thomas Turton added to it a good dining and drawing-room ; and removed the stabhs and farm-yard which were left by Sir James in front of the house. On the ground inclosed within the moat. Sir James built a room with stones which he found upon the spot, and placed over the door this inscription : Obscuro positus loco Leni perfruar otio. On the right of this was the following under the arms of Cob- ham : Munivit Reginaldus de Cobham per Licentiam Edwardi 3"' daC 18*" Octobris anno regni 15^ de manso kerncllando 1342 a" 18^ E. 3. On the left, under the arms of Burrow : Hunc quantulam cunque particulara restituit Jacobus Burrow, 1754. 144 SURREY. In the room are whole length portraits of Lord Borough, Iot6 de- puty of Ireland during the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and another of the family, with three more antique heads, the names not known. Tandridge, though now a small village, was formerly of suf- ficient consequence to give name to the hundred. Salmon, with great plausibility, conjectures, that the original name was Stan- rige, from the old Stane-street road in Godstone, which passes; near it. Not far from the foot of the chalk-hill was an hospital for three priests and several poor brethren, or as it was more generally termed in later times, a Priory of Augustine Canons, founded, a^ it is generally supposed, in the time of Richard I. by Odo, son of William de Dammartin, though the style of his charter* im- plies no more than that he was a considerable benefactor. At the Dissolution its annual revenues were valued at 881. 7s. ; and ita possessions were soon afterwards given by Henry VIII. to John Rede, in exchange for his estate at Oatlands in Weybridge. Tlie buildings belonging to this establishment have long been entirely demolished, though the name of the priory is perpetuated in a mo- dern farm-house ; and in clearing the ground paving tiles have been found, but without any ornament. Near the foot of the chalk-hills is Rooks-nest, a handsome mansion, with about 240 acres of land, 140 of which are laid out as a park. This estate was part of the possessions of the priory, and was granted with them to John Rede. It was the property and residence of the late Sir Henry Strachey, Bart, so created in 1801, and who also held the situation of Master of his^ Majesty's household. The Hundred of Reigate. This hundred, which with its principal town, was anciently denominated Ckcrchjicld, adjoins to Sussex on the south ; is bounded * la Mon. Anlg. II. 403. SURREY. 145 bounded on llie east by Tandridge ; on the north by Croydon ; find on the west by the hundreds of Dorking and Copthorn. It lies in the deanery of Ewel, and contains the parishes of Beech- worth, (which Domesday Book and modern maps place in the hundred of Wotton), Buckland, Burstow, Charlwood, Chip- sted, Gatton, Horley, Leigh, Merstham, Kingswood Libirty, (in the parish of EwelJ Newdigate, (that part of it called the Hamlet, the remainder being in Copthorn hundred) Nutfidd and Heigate. * Reigate is situated at the foot of the ridge of chalky down which crosses the county, and consists of two streets, the principal, or the High-street, running nearly east and west, and the other, called Bell-street, from north to south. It has a good weekly market on Tuesday, the charter for which was obtained by John Earl of Warren, 6 Edward II. In 1673 Charles II. granted a charter for another market to be held on the first Wednesday in every month, which for some time fell into disuse, but has lately been revived. The town stands on a rock of beautiful white sand, which, it is said, cannot be equalled for colour by any in the kingdom. From wells dug in this rock the place is supplied with excellent water. In the returns of 1801 the population of the parish is stated at 2246, inhabiting 417 houses, of which the town con- tained 196 houses, occupied by 923 persons. This place, till about sixty years ago, carried on a considerable trade in oatmeal, in the manufacture of which nearly twenty mills were employed ; but the trade gradually declined, and one mill only now remains. Reigate has sent two members to Parliament since 23 Edward I, The electors are the freeholders of messuages or burgage tene- ments within the precincts of the borough : the returning officer being the bailiff of the manor. Here, however, as in many other places, the ceremony of election is a mere farce, all the electors being under the influence of the noble families gf Somers and Vol. XIV. L Hardwicke, 146 SURREY. Hardwicke, to tlie former of whom the manor belongs. Reio-ate confers the title of baron on the Earl of Peterborough. On the north side of the town, behind the principal street, was situated the Castle, of whose ancient history we know but little, and of its original foundation still less. The scanty accounts of it that have reached our times ascribe its origin to some of the Warrens, Earls of Surrey ; but others assert, that whatever was erected by them stood on the site of a much more ancient struc- ture, the work of the Saxons. If, indeed, the inhabitants of these parts were so active and successful in repelling ^the Danish plunderers, as to have given occasion to the proverbial distich attributed to them by Camden : The Vale of Hohuesdale, Never wonne, ne never shall, it is not unlikely, considering the importance of the situation, that their leaders had a fortress here sufficient for the purposes of rendezvous and security, Be this as it may, so much is cer- tain, that the Castle of Reigate was one of the chief seats of the powerful Earls of Warren and Surrey. The wavering policy of one of these noblemen in King Jolin^s reign occasioned the tem- porary loss of this castle, which, in 1216, was surrendered to Louis, Dauphin of France. At what time it was first suffered to go to ruin is not known ; but its final demolition was probably occasioned by the jealousy of Parliament in 1648. Some por- tions of the outer wall were standing about thirty years ago, but no part of the building now remains. The site of this structure is the property of Lord Somers. It is an eminence surrounded by a ditch of considerable breadth and depth on the south and west sides. On the summit of the hill, which contains an area of one acre thirty-eight poles, and forms a lawn of very fine turf, is erected a summer apartment in a taste corresponding with the design of the original erection ; and on the east side, without the ditch, is a gateway of stone in the t ancient SURREY. 147 ancient style, erected in 1777 by Mr. Richard Barnes, attorney- at-law of Reigate, who then occupied the premises. In the centr« of the area is the entrance by a flight of steps, covered with a small building of a pyramidal form, to the depth of eighteen feet, and then regularly without steps twenty-six feet more, and the whole length 235 feet, into a cave or room 123 feet long, thirteen wide, and eleven high, to the crown of the arch : in one part of which is a crypt, near fifty yards in length, with a seat of stone at the end, which extended the whole length of the room on both sides. This cave probably served its lords both as a repository for their treasures and military stores, and a place of safe custody for their prisoners. The arch, which is supposed to have formed a private communication with the town, is broken, and the cavity stopped. In 1802 a spur of extraordinary size was found here at the depth of three feet in the ground. The Priory y a modern mansion at the southern extremity of the town, belongs, with the grounds, containing about seventy- six acres, to Lord Somers. It stands on the site of a religious house founded by William de Warren, Earl of Surrey, who died in 1240, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary and the Holy Cross. It consisted of a prior, and some few regular canons of the order of St. Augustin'; but some writers, as Speed and Rymer, call it a house of Crutched Friars, probably because it was dedicated to the Holy Cross, though it is known that the latter order did not come into England till 1244, which must have been some years after its foundation. This was one of the smaller convents which were dissolved 27 Henry VIII. when its annual revenues were 781. 16s. 8d. The Church, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, and situated at the western extremity of the town, is constructed of better materials than the generality of these buildings throughout the county, being of squared chalk, or lime-stone, probably from the neighboring quarries. It has two aisles extending through the chancel nearly to the east end of the nave, and an embattled tower of hewn stone, containing eight bells. On the north side of L2 the 148 SURREY. the chancel is an additional building of brick-work for a vestry, erected by John Skynner, Esq. in 1513, having a library over it, in wliicli is a collection of bcoks for the use of the parish and neigliborhood. The total length of this structure is 125^ feet, and its breadth 54|. In the church are costly monuments for Richard Ladbroke, Esq. who died in 17S0, in his forty-ninth year; and for Sir Thomas Bhidder, Knt. aild his lady, who expired within a week of each other in 1618. Here are also several memorials of the family of Thurland, and among the rest that of Sir Edward Thurland, Knt, a Baron of the Exchequer during the reign of Charles II. who died in 1682 at the age of 76. On a white marble in the form of a heart against the south wall of the chancel is this inscription : — " Near this place lieth Ed- ward Bird, Esq. dyed the 23d of February 1719. His age 26." Over it is a half length bust in white marble of a man in armour, with a full flowing wig, a truncheon in his right hand, and va- rious warlike instruments in the back ground. Mr. Bird was a lieutenant in the Marquis of Winchester's regiment of horse; and in September 1718, had the misiortune to kill a waiter at a bagnio in Golden-square. He was tried in January following, convicted of the murder, and hanged. His monument originally had a farther inscription, censuring the conduct of the judge and jury, which was afterwards obliterated. Under the chancel is a vault belonging to the manor of the Priory, and made by the Lord Howard of Effingham, the first grantee of that estate, in which are buried many of his family. On the left side of the leaden coffin of the first Earl of Notting- ham is the following inscription engraved in capitals : " Heave lyetli the body of Cljarles Howarde, Earle of Not- tinghame, Lorde High Admyrall of Englande, Generall of Queene Elizabethe's Navy Royall att Sea agaynst the Span- yard's invinsable Navy in the yeare of our Lorde 1588; whoe departed this life at Haling Hows the 14 daye of December in ye yeare of our Lord, 1624, iElatis sve, 87.'' The SURRKY. 149 The Market-house, a small brick building, with piazzas below md a chamber above for the purposes of a Town-Hall, was erecteu about the year 1708, on the site of a cliapel dedicated to Thomas Beckct, which had previously been appropriated to the same uses. A smaller building contiguous to it, denominated the Clock-house, was designed as a prison for felons and others, who are brought to the Easter Sessions held at Reigate. The assizes also were formerly held here, and the above-mentioned' chapel served as the court. A little below the neighboring inn known by the sign of the White Hart, and at the upper end of the street leading southward, are the visible remains of another chapel, said to have been dedicated to St. Lawrence. It is now a dwelling-house, and the walls and roof are entire. To these may be added a third, dedicated to the Holy Cross, which for- merly stood near the west end of the principal street, and was afterwards converted into, or gave place to, a barn, now razed to its foundation. The latter, from its name, was doubtless an appurtenance to the priory. The Park of Reigate is p?irt of the demesnes of the manor containing 150 acres, situated on the south side of the town, but divided from it by the Priory estate ; it is high ground, and forms a terrace upwards of half a mile in length, which commands extensive and delightful views. It appears, by the Survey takeu in 1622, that " the old Park was well stored with timber trees, and replenished with deer." About 1635, Lord Monson, who then had the manor, disparked it, and cut down the timber. Till lately it has been a fine turf, but is now converted into ara- ble land, perhaps not much to the advantage of the farmer, being a poor sandy soil. The wastes of Earlswood, the Wray, and Peteridge Heath, which, with Reigate Heath, belong to this manor, were also formerly covered with timber, which is sup- posed to have been cut down by Lord Monson about tbe same time that he threw open the park. Instead of trees he filled them with rabbits, to the great annoyance and damage of the com- moners ; but there has been no warren in the memory of man.* L3 At • Manning's Surrey, I. 287. 130 SURREY. At East Bcechworth, so called to distinguish it from West Beechworth, in the hundred of Dorking, is the mansion of the late Hon. William Henry Bouverie : it was built in the time of King James I. by Sir Ralph Freeman, who purchased this estate of the trustees of tlie Earl of Abergavenny. In this house are portraits of Sir Ralph, one of his wife before, and another of her after marriage, Avith a child ; Martin Freeman, Sir George Freeman, Sir Thomas More, and others. Here also are casts from several of the finest ancieni statues brought from Italy by Mr. John Harvey. In the chimney-piece of the drawing-room is inserted a piece of sculpture from Herculaneum, representing boys riding on bulls and horses. Wonham, one of the manors in this parish, was purchased in 1787 by the Hon. Charles Mars ham, the late Earl of Romney. He rebuilt the house on a larger scale than before ; and on his accession to the title sold it to John Stables, Esq. who, in 1804, disposed of it to Viscount Templetown. The grounds compre- hend 120 acres, including a park of sixty-six, which is in part bounded by the river Mole. On Smallfield Common, in the parish of BuRSTOW, is the remaining part of a mansion-house built of stone, which belonged to the family of De Burstow, and passed from them to that of Byshe, long settled there. It was formerly called Cruttings, and was given by Bartholomew, Lord Burghersh, to John de Burstow, as an acknowledgement for assistance received from him when thrown from his horse in an engagement with the French.* The house, of which part is now standing, is supposed to have been erected by Edward Byshe. He was a bencher of Lincoln's Inn, and a great practitioner in the Court of Wards, where he amassed his fortune, and used jokingly to say, that he built this house with woodcocks' heads. A considerable part of the mausion was taken down some years since j and what remains of it is converted into a farm-house. In this house was born Edward Byshe, son of the gentleman above?. * Bysv&''* Notes on Upton. SURREY. 151 above-mentioned. He was bred to the law ; and in 1640 returned to Parliament for Blecliingley. Having taken the covenant in 1643, he was appointeil by the Parliament Garter King at Afms; and - in 1646 Clarencieux also. After the restoration of Charles II. he was obliged to relinquish the former of these offices, but suffered to retain the latter, in consideration of his having, daring the interregnum, preserved the library of the College of Arms. He was knighted, and again returneJ for Blechingley in 1661, in which Parliament he is said to have been a pensioner at 1001. a session. In his younger years he was esteemed a worthy and virtuous man ; and in his public employments is said to have been an eminent patron of learning and learned men; but after the Restoration, being much in debt, he was not only reduced to the necessity of selling many of his books, of which he had a valuable collection, but also prostituted his office by unwarrant- able grants of arms to supply his necessities, so that Dugdale, then Norroy, who had been his greatest confidant and ailmirer, and by whose interest and recommendation he was brought into the office, joined with Garter and other officers in a petition against him. He was the author of a folio volume of Notes on Tracts by Upton, Bado, and Spelman, in 1654; and published a translation from the Greek into Latin of Palladius de gentihus Indice et Brachmanihus , 4to. 1665. He also gave out that he intended to publish a Survey, or Antiquities of the County of Surrey, but it never appeared. He died in London 1679. Gatton is situated on, and under the range of chalk-hills above Reigate ; and though a borough, consists of only a few scattered houses. Baxter, in his Glossary, says, that this place was well known to the Romans, whose coins, and other remains of antiquity, have been found here in considerable quantities. From its situation on one of their roads it probably received its name of Gate-tun, or the town on the road. Gale speaks of it as one of those places in the neighbourhood of the Thames which were without doubt garrisoned by the Romans ;* but it is at a great distance from that river. L4 In ♦ Coniment. 71. 152 SURREY. In this parish is a bridge called Battle Bridge, "which has been written Batley Bridge. Tradition relates that here a great carnage of the Danes was made by the women : this probably alludes to the slaughter of some of the fugitives, after the memo^*^' rable defeat sustained by them at Ockley. Aubrey observes, that on the site of the present manor-house stood a castle, and that the town was formerly situated more westwardly, towards the top of White Hill, that is, the hill above Reigate. Of this castle not the least trace remains ; nor is it mentioned in any of the old historians. That there were formerly more houses is very true, as many of them have been pulled down to lessen the nura?jer of voters, who consist of inha- bitants paying scot and lot. Their present number is only about eight, including the mansion-houses of Upper and Lower Gat- ton, which, with all the land in the parish, except the giebe, belong to Sir Mark Wood, Bart, the owner of the manor. Gatton began to send members to Parliament 29 Henry VI. 1451, The manor of Gatton was, in the fifteenth century, the pro- perty of the Tymperley family. In 1449 Henry VI. granted John Tymperley licence to impark it, with other privileges. How it afterwards came to the Crown |is not known; but it formed part of the provision assigned to Ann of Cleves on her divorce from Henry VIII. At the beginning of the last cen- tury it became the property of the family of Newland, and was purchased in 1751, with some other lands, for 23,0001. by James Colebrooke, Esq. who, in 1759, was created a baronet. By his daugliters it was sold to his brother Sir George, who made Gat- ton his residence. The estate afterwards passed througli several hands before it became the property of the present owner. Upper Gatton is a handsome mansjion standing on the hill next to Ciiipsted, surrounded* by a park of about 100 acres, in the occupation of Sir Henry Harpur Carew, Bart. Lower Gatton, the beautiful residence of Sir Mark Wood, Bart, stands in the midst of an extensive park. The church is also SURREY. 153 also included in the park ; but all the monuments were removed from it when an alteration was made in the interior by Sir James^ who pulled down the parsonage, and laid part of the glebe into a piece of water of thirty acres. Merstham contains very valuable quarries of stone, which appear to have been in former ages considered of so much im- portance, that the Crown kept possession of them itself. A pa- tent or Edward III. is yet extant, authorizing John Thomas Prophete to dig stone here for the use of Windsor Castle, order- ing the sheriff, and other officers, to assist, and apprehend, such men as sliould refuse to work^ and send them prisoners to Windsor, The magnificent chapel of Henry VII. at Westminster Abbey was also built with stone fi om these quarries. The quality which principally occasions the extensive demand for this stone, is its effectual resistance of fire, whence it is denominated Fire-stone, It is very soft when first brouglit from the quarry, but hardens in the air, to which it should lie exposed several months before it is placed in the building. The chalk of this part of the Surrey hills burns into excellent lime, and is in great esteem for any work which requires mortar of more than the ordinary strength. To facilitate the convey- ance of these productions of this district, a rail-road has been formed, which opens a direct communication between this place and the metropolis by Croydon and Wandsworth. In Merstham Church is a curious font, consisting of a square block of well wrought and highly polished Sussex marble, with a sufficient excavation to dip an infant conveniently. It is lined- with lead, and elevated on a pillar of tlie same stone : at each corner was a small round pillar, but of these only one remains. Over the' communion-table is placed, by way of altar-piece, a very large print on nine sheets, about six feet high and five wide, representing the Last Supper. It is a Fieijch engraving, and is well executed. Merstham Place, a spacious mansion, was erected by the late William 154 SURREY. William JoUiffe, Esq.* -who porchased the manor in 1788. It is now the residence of his son, Hylton Jolliffe, Esq. A lane in this parish, -which rans in tlie direction of the chalk- hills, and -was the course pursued by tlie pilgrims resorting frorn the west to Becket^s shrine at Canterbury, still retains the name of Pilgrim^s-laiie. Merstham has long been celebrated for very productive apple- orchards. That belonging- to the rectory, though little more than two acres, has yielded above 800 bushels in a year.f In the parish of Newdigate is Ewood, a mansion formerly surrounded by a park of 600 acres, in which is a piece of flowinop water of sixty acres. This estate, fonnhii*^ part of the ancient possessions of the Earls of Warren, Surrey, and Arundel, having been separated from them for several centuries, and passed through many hands, was at length bought by the present Duke of Nor- folk, who, in 1807, began to erect a new mansion near Ewood, on the brow of an eminence commanding a delightful prospect of the park and water, and of the beautiful wooded heights of Dorking and the adjacent country. It is intended by his Grace for an occasional residence, being at an equal distance from the metropolis and Arundel Castle. NuTFiELD is noted for producing fullers* earth of a superior quality to that from any other part of England. There are three pits ill this parish, and one in Reigate, from which are annually dug between two and tliree thousand tons. About fifty years ago a quantity of brass Roman coins of the Lower Empire were found in this parish in an eartiien vessel, which was broken by the wheel of a carriage in the highway leading from the village towarus Ham. In Mr. Jolliffe was representative in Pailiament for Petersficid in Hamp- sliire, and died in consequence of an accidental fall into his cellar from a door wliich had been left open, in aged fifty-eight. His son, George, a lieutenant in the royal navj, fell on board the Belleroplion in the mcnia- rable battle of the Nile, August 1, 1798, at the early age of twenty years. + ^Manning's Surrey, 11. 25b, note. 1 SURREY. In the chiircli is an altar-tomb, under a pointed arch in a niche in the south wall of the chancel, which niust be of high antiquity. At one end is a star with eight rays, and round the edge of the upper stone the following inscription, in antique capitals, cut in at a considerable distance from 0113 another: Sire Thomas de Roldkam : gist : ici : Deu : de : sa : almc : eyt : merci. The stone has been broken, and one part of the name is fixed iu the pavement. The Hundred of Dorking, as it is now denominated from its chief town, was formerly knowa by the name of Wotton. It is bounded on the west by Black- heath ; on the north by Copthorn ; on the east by Reigate, and on the south by the county of Sussex. This hundred was granted, 18 James I. together with those of Blackheath and Woking, to Sir Edward Zouch, and passed in the sapoe manner to Earl Onslow, the present proprietor of the franchise. It lies in the deanery of Stoke, and comprehends the parishes of Abinger, Capel, Dorking, Ockley, and Wotton. Dorking, twenty-four miles distant from London, is situated near the river Mole, in a sandy vale, sheltered on the north by the ridge of chalky down, which runs across this county, and on the great road from London to Brighthelmstone. It consists of three streets, the East, West, and South. The greater part of the town is clean, and well watered from the springs that abound here. It has a plentiful weekly market on Thursday, and a fair on the eve and day of the feast of the Ascension. These are re- corded among the claims of John Earl of Warren, in 1279, and were probably granted to one of his ancestors. Here are two small streams, which joining before they reach the town, form the rivulet known by the name of Pipbrook, that runs parallel with 156 SURREY. with the town on the north side, and empties itself into tlje Mole under Box-hill. In 1801, the parish of Dorking contained 583 houses, and 3058 inhabitants. At this place is a breed of fowls with five claws, well known to the London poulterers by the appellation of Dorking fowls; one sort is perfectly white, and another of partridge colour. Colu- mella, in his Husbandry, describes fowls answering to these, so that they are conjectured to have been originally brought hither by the Romans. From the Domesday Survey this manor appears to have been one of those which had been held by Edith, Queen of Edward the Confessor, but was then in the possession of the Conqueror, After its alienation from the Crown, the Earls of Warren are the first subjects in whose hands we find it. From lhat family it de- scended to the Fitz-Alans, Earls of Arundel, and on the decease of Thomas, the last earl without issue, in 1415, his estates were di^ded among his three sisters. On this partition Reigate and Dorking were carried by Elizabeth the eldest, into the family of the Mowbrays, Dukes of Norfolk. The latter becoming extinct on the death of Anne, who was married to the Duke of York, the second son of Edward IV. the manor of Dorking was divided among the descendants of the four daughters of the above-men- tioned Elizabeth Fitz-Alan. Three of the four parts soon be- came united in the illustrious house of Norfolk ; and the other fourth was purchased of the late Sir Henry St. John Mildmay, Bart, by the present duke, who thus became possessed of the whole, after it had been divided more than three hundred years. Among the peculiar usages of tliis manor it may be remarked, that the custom of Borough English prevails here, by which the youngest son inherits the copyhold. The assizes for the county appear to have been held at this place in 1699, but on wliat occasion we are not informed. The Sessions used to be held iiere occasionally in the Town- Hall, vihich stands in the middle ot the High Street; but this has not been the case for many years. The SURREY. 157 The Church, dedicated to St. Martin, is a iieot, commodious, and substantial building, consisting of a nave, with north and south aisles, and a chancel divided from the former by a transept, in the centre of which is a low embattled tower, containing eight bells with a clock and chimes. The whole is built of the ordi- nary stone and flints of tlie county, excepting the upper part of the tower, which is composed of squared stone, or chalk. It is furnished witli galleries, and the north end of the transept serves for a vestry and school. Against the north wall of the chancel, in the church-yard, is a plain brick building, inclosing a vault belonging to the manor of East Beechworth, and near it, adjoin- ing to the north transept, a handsome mausoleum, of Portland stone, erected by Mr. Talbot of Chert Park ; whose arras are within a pediment at the end, supported by Tuscan columns. The total length of this church is 127 feet, the breadth of the nave and aisles being 53, and of the chancel 19|. Among other monuments in this church are those of Abraham Tucker, Esq. of Beechworth Castle, author of a metaphysical work, intituled The Light of Nature pursued, who died in 1774, aged 69 ; and of that eminent scholar and critic Jeremiah Mark- land, with an inscription from the pen of his friend Dr. Heber- den. Mr. Markland was born in 1693, and during the last twenty-two years of his life resided in the utmost privacy, at Milton Court, a farm-house near Dorking, where he died, in 1776. Here also are interred the great-grandfather, grandfather, and first ■wife, of the present Duke of Norfolk. The Slane Street, or Roman road from Arundel to Dorking, is said to have passed through this church-yard, and to have been frequently discovered there by persons employed in digging the graves. In the parish of Ockley, to the south of Dorking, this road, for the space of two miles, is still used as a highway, under the name of Stane Street Causeway. The Magna Britannia, speaking of this part of it, describes the road as formed of flints and pebbles, and says, that because there are no materials of the fcind near it, the common people ascribe the work to infernal agency. 158 SURREY. agency, and call it the DeviPs Causeway. It is in some places ten yards broad, and a yard and a half deep. At the west end of the town is a mansion called from the na- ture of t[»e soil Sonde Place, the ancient residence of the family of Sondes, and from which, in all probability, they took their name. In later times the lands belonging to this mansion have heen parcelled out among ditFerent owners, but the greater part of the estate, together with the house, being purchased by Edward Walter, Esq. of Bury Hill, in this parish, descended with his other property to his only daughter, the wife of the late Lord Viscount Grimston. In the south street is another old tenement, called Sondes Court Lodge, formerly belonging to the same family. It seems very doubtful, whether, as some pretend, there was ever a castle at this place ; at least it is not known that any re- cords which make mention of one are textant. Aubrey indeed speaks of two castles, by the names of Denham and Blackhawes, but there is nothing that can be construed into a tradition re- lating to either of them, except that in a field belonging to Richard Fuller, Esq. at Westcott, in this parish, is a square piece of ground, containing about a quarter of an acre, enclosed by a high bank, evidently artificial, which is called Castle Bank, and may be the remains of some military earth-work, to which one of the names mentioned by Aubrey might perhaps have been given. Dorking is surrounded by beautiful hills, commanding views of isuch magnificence as not to be excelled by any inland county in the kingdom. That the advantages of these situations have not been overlooked, the numerous mansions and villas in its imme- diate neighbourhood abundantly evince. Shrub Hill, at the east end of the town, is a commodious and pleasant villa, the residence of Lord Leslie, eldest son and heir ap- parent of the Countess of Rothes, by George Raymond Evelyn, Esq. His lordship is colonel of the Surrey yeomen cavalry, for whom he has printed a very useful book of instructions. West SURREY. 159 West Becchworth, an old mansion, standing on the site of an ancient castle, occupies an eminence on the banks of the Mole. At tlie General Survey, the manor belonging to it formed part of the possessions of Richard de Tonbridge, and afterwards of the Earls of Arundel. In 1377, John Fitz-Alan, second son of Richard, Earl of Arundel, ^lio died the preceding year, having succeeded to this estate, had licence to imbattle his manor house here. A similar licence was granted in 1449, to Thomas Brown, Esq. in whose possession this estate then was ; he had permission also to impark his manor, to have free v/arren in the same; like- wise Court Leet and Court Baron, and an annual affair on Tuesday in Wliitsun-week. In the family of Brown, of which Ambrose* was, in 1627, created a baronet, this estate continued vested till the death of Sir Adam, in 1690, when it devolved to his sole daughter and heir, married to William Fenwick, Esq. who pulled down the greater part of the castle, and turned tlie re- mainder into a dwelling-house. It is now the property of Henry Peters, Esq. who has made great improvements, and enlarged the estate by various purchases. The park is remarkable for the nohle timber with which it is adorned. The outer park is skirted with chesnut-trees of very large dimensions, and the inner, at the extremity of which the house is situated, has two fine avenues, the one of elms, the other, 350 yards in length, composed of a triple row of limes of extraordinary size and height. The Downs, which rise to a considerable elevation from the opposite bank of the Mole, are finely chequered with yew and box trees of great antiquity, which form a scene not less vene- rable than pleasing. Of the latter, in particular, there was formerly such abundance, that the part of the Downs lying con- tiguous to the stream, and within the precinct of the manor of West Beechworth, has always been known by the name of jBo* Hill; it commands an extensive view into the neighbouring counties. Various have been the disquisitions concerning the antiquity of this plantation, which, for any thing that appears to the contrary, may have been coeval with the soil. The late Sir 160 SURREY. Sir Henry Mildmay, while in possession of this estate, sold the box upon Box Hill for 150001.; the purchaser was to be al« lowed fourteen years to cut it :3own. In 1802, forty tons were cut, and from the great quantity which has thus been brouj^ht into the market, and the limited use to which it can be applied, this wood has fallen more than fifty per cent. It will not now bring more than five or six pounds per ton. At Dipden, soutii-eastward of Dorking, was an ancient man- sion, formerly the residence of the Honourable Charles Howard cf Greystoke, great grandfather of the present Duke of Norfolk, on whom three-fourths of tlie manor of Dorking devolved among other estates by the settlement of liis father, the Earl of Arundel. In this spot, adapted by its solitude to study and contemplation, the ingenious proprietor, by an elegant and well-judged distribu- tion of plantations of different kinds, created a scene of exqui- site beauty and tranquillity, where he amused his leisure hours with experiments in the different branches of natural philosophy. His favourite employment was the study of chemistry, for the more commodious prosecution of which he erected laboratories, and in subterraneous grots formed for the purpose, had funiaces of different kinds, the flues of which in some places are yet to be seen. Among other works which he carried on here, was a passage throu€,h the hill, designed to open a prospect of the vale of Sussex to the south ; but the eartli having one morning fallen in while the labourers were absent at breakfast, the project was relinquished. He ditd in 1720, and was buried, as we have seen, in Dorking church. On this spot the late Duke of Norfolk erected a large and handsome house, which, in 1790, was sold by the present duke to Sir William Burrel, Bart. On his death, in 1796, this mansion devolved to his eldest son. Sir Charles, and is now by purchase the residence of Thomas Hope, Esq. Chert Park, formerly called the Vineyard, was, in 1746, pur- chased by Henry Talbot, Esq. fourth son of Dr. William Talbot^ Bishop of Durham, and youngest surviving brother of Lord Tal- bot, Lord High Chan(5tllor of Great Britain. To that gentleman 9 this SURREY. 161 tjlis place owes the improvements under it now appears : he enlarged the mansion, which commands a pleasant and exten- sive view to the south, and through the adjacent grounds, into a beautiful park. He died in 1784, when this estate devolved to his only daughter, the wife of Thomas Cornewall, Esq. That lady, who survived her husband, left this place at her decease, in 1802, to her kinsman. Sir Charles Talbot, who makes it his resi- dence. The house, a plain white building, lies low : the park is not extensive, but the surface is strikingly diversified, and planted with great taste. Denbf/'s, or Denbigh* s, was an ordinary farm-house when pur- chased in 1734, by Mr. Jonathan Tyers, the contriver of Vauxhall Gardens. It is situated on the very summit of the range of down, called Rannier, which bounds the parish on the north-west, and commands one of the most extensive and delightful prospects that can be conceived. The improvements introduced at this place by Mr. Tyers were various and striking ; but in a taste so totally different from what he had exhibited at Vauxhall, as to authorise the conjecture, that he intended this later design for a contrast to the former. Here every thing tended to impress the mind with serious thoughts : the principal scene was a wood of about eight acres, which he denominated // Penseroso. It was intersected with many pleasing walks, and in the centre was a small temple loaded with inscriptions of the most grave and solemn kind ; Avhile a clock, concealed from the view, struck at the end of every minute, and forcibly proclaimed the rapid flight of time. At a little distance from the temple was an open building, on which were two figures as large as life, designed by Hay man, and re^ presenting a Christian and an Unbeliever in their last moments ; with a statue of Truth treading on a mask, and directing the spectator's attention to those interesting objects. These grave conceits, however, were done away by the Honourable Peter King, father of the present Lord King, who, on the death of Mr. Tyers, in 1767, purchased this place, which, in 1781, he again disposed Vol. XIV, M of 162 SURRjEY. of to James Whyte, Esq. By the latter it was sold, in 1787, t« Joseph Dcnni^on, Esq. the present proprietor. On the side of a considerable eminence, about three quarters of a mile south-west of Dorking, is Burij Hill, erected by Edward Walter, Esq. who accidentally saw this country, and was so pleased with it, that he bought a small farm, called Chardhurst, with other parcels of land, and built this mansion. The eminence, on the south side of which it stands, was inclosed by him, from the waste of the manor of Milton, and planted chiefly with Scotch firs, which, though not duly thinned, have grown well. The pro- prietor gradually augmented his possessions here by subsequent purchases, upon which he formed plantations. At his death, in 1780, this estate devolved to his only daughter, the lady of the late Viscount Grimstou, and is now the property of G. Barclay, Esq. The Rookery, on the bank of the little stream of Pipbrook was formerly a farm-house, called Chert-gate Farm. It was some time the property of Abraham Tucker, Esq. of Beechworth Castle, of whom it was purchased in 1759, by Daniel Malthus, Esq. This gentleman first took advantage of its beauties of hill and dale, wood and water, and converted it into an elegant seat, to which he gave the present appellation. In 1768, he sold it to Richard Fuller, Esq. by whom it was considerably en- larged, and left at his death, in 1782, to his sou, the present pro- prietor. About three miles and a half southward of Dorking, and in a direct line to the Stane Street, is a considerable eminence, known by tiie name of Hanstie Bury, that is the burg, hill, or fortress on the Hean Stige, or high road. The traces of this fortress, arc very apparent at this day; being nearly of a circular form, (surrounded wiUi a double trench, except on the south-east, south, and south-west, where the precipice rendered it injnecessary ; and inclosing an area of eleven acres, one rood, and six perches, ^ having the principal entrance on the north-east. Manning is in- clinetl, from its circular form, to consider it as the woi'k of the Danes ; SURKEY. 163 Danes ; and in that case, as the spot on which they encamped previously to their defeat at Ockley, in 851. In the adjoining fields have been found the heads of arrows, made of flint, in the form of a heart, and about an inch and a half in length. The area of the camp was planted by Mr. Walter, whose property it was at his decease, with forest-trees of various kinds, intersected by avenues which open on different quarters, and exhibit many beautiful and striking prospects of the country beneath. Ockley is remarkable as the place wliere the Danes, who had passed into Surrey after sacking London, were defeated with great slaughter by King Ethelwolf, and his son Ethelbald, or Athelstan. The Saxon Chronicle places this engagement in 851 ; Leland, in his Collections, in 873, and Milton between 851 and 853. It was formerly customary in this parish, that if either of two contracted parties died before marriage, the survivors planted roses at the head of the grave of the deceased. This practice was doubtless derived from the Romans, who, as well as the Greeks, considered it a religious duty, and often in their wills directed roses to be strewed and planted upon their graves, as ap- pears by an old inscription at Ravenna, and another at Milan. Hence Propertius has this expression — et tenerd poneret ossa Rosa*, and Anacreon, speaking of it, says, tha4; v£K§oty dy^vvEiy, " it protects the dead." W OTTON, or WoDETON, formerly gave name to this hundred. In this parish is Wotton House, which since the time of Queen Elizabeth has been the seat of a branch of the Evelyn family. Much of the ancient house yet remains. The library on the north gide was built by Sir John Evelyn, who was created a baronet in 1713, and the drawing-room in the south front was added by Sir Frederic, the late proprietor. The table mentioned by the author of Sylva, consisting of one plank, now shortened in its length, but five feet two inches in diameter, is yet preserved. M2 The V * Lib. T. Eleg. 2- 104 SOltREY. The park lias been many years applied to the more useful pui'l)Oses? of farminu^. This house was the birth-place of John Evelyn, the ccle- brateJ author of Si/lva. His father resided at Wotton, where he loaintained the j^euuine character of a country gentleman. He was the last sheriff" of the counties of Surrey and Sussex jointly^ in 1634; on which occasion he attended the judges with 110 servants in green satin doublets, and cloth cloaks, guarded with silver galloon, as were the brims of their hats, which were adorned with white featliers. These men carried new javelins } and two trumpeters bore banners, on which were blazoned his arms. Tliere were, besides, thirty gentlemen, to whom he was uncle, or great- uncle, all clad in the same colours, who came with several others to do him honour. His son John, who suc- ceeded to the estate on the deatli of his elder brother George, was born in 1620. He was educated at the school at Lewes, in 1637, entered of the Middle Temple, and the same year ad- mitted a fellow commoner of Baliol College, Oxford. Having borne arms for a short time in favour of Charles I. he obtained the king's permission to travel ; and in 1642, set out on the tour of Europe, from which he did not return till 1651. He has left a minute account of all that he thought worthy of observation in his travels ; and nothing seems to have escaped him. During his absence he married at Paris the daughter, and at length heir of Sir Richard Brown, then the king's ambassador in France, and by this match became possessed of Sayes Court in Deptford. In 1682, when the Royal Society was established, he was ap- pointed one of the first Fellows and Council. He was a constant attendant, and considerable benefactor, to this Society ; as, besides his various communications, he gave them some curious Anatomi- cal Tables, purchased by him at Padua, and procured of Lord Henry Howard the Arundel Library for the Society. Of the same nobleman, whose grandfather Thomas, Earl of Arundel, ha^ been tiie collector of those curiosities, he likewise obtained the Arundel marbles for the University of Oxford, by which he was SURREY. 165 in colisequencfe presented with the degree of LL. D. In 1685. he was one of the commissioners for executing the office of liOrU Privy Seal during the absence of the Earl of Clarendon ; and after the accession of William III. was appointed Treasurer of Greenwioii Hospital. Having succeeded his brother in the Wot- ton estate, he made that pla«e his residence, and tliere died, in 1706, in his eighty-sixth year. He is interred with many of his family, in the church at Wotton. Of his publications, not fewer than twenty-six in number, a full account is given in Aubrey in the Biographia Britannica, and in Dr. Hunter's edition of the most celebrated of them, the St/lva, published in 1776. He was an artist as well as an author; and etched at Paris, 1649, five views of places which he had drawn between Rome and Naples, w ith a frontispiece. Lcith Hill, which runs from east to west, is by far the high- est ground in this county. From Wotton House the ascent is gradual over a gravelly common for about four miles to the edge of the hill, when it descends precipitately into the deep clay country, which continues in nearly a level to the foot of the South Downs in Sussex. It commands a view not only of all this county, and of the sea, through an opening in the South Downs, dialled Beding Gap, but over the northern range of chalk-hills into Berkshire and Oxfordshire; to the west, into Hampshire, and perhaps into Wiltshire, and to the north-east over Box Hill to London. Lcith Hill Place, on the southern slope of this hill, is a small but elegant mansion, which was al tered and brought into its pre- sent form by Lieutenant-general FoUiott, who rose by his merit from tlie ranks. On his death, in 1748, this estate was pur- chased by Richard Hull, Esq. who, in 1766, with the permis- sion of Sir John Evelyn, built a tower on One of the points of Leith Hill, from which the sea is visible through an opening in the South Downs. Here he fitted up a handsome room to en- able the curious to enjoy the extensive prospect at their case, M 3 Htid 166 and placed a stone over the door in the west fronts vitli this (now inapplicable) inscription : Ut terrain undique beatara Videas viatur Haec turris de longe spectabilis SumptibiisRichardi Hull Ex agro Leith Hill Place Armig". Kegnante Georgio Tertio Anno Dom. MDCCLXVI. Extructa fuit, Oblectamento non sui solum Sed Vicinorum £t Omnium. In this tower Mr. Hull was by his own particular desire in- terred after his death, and a marble slab fixed against the inner wall, with an inscription stating, that he was a native of Bri.^tol, had served many years in the parliament of Ireland, aud lived on intimate terms with Pope, Trenchard, Bishop Berkley, and other eminent characters. He died in 1772, in his eig!»ty-thircl year. Soon after his death his house and property here were sold by his nephew, and heir to Mr. Thompson, an Oporto merchant ; but as no provision was made for keeping the tower in repair, it was wholly neglected, idle persons broke in, destroyed the staircases, floors, and windows, and left the place a mere shell. About 1795, this estate was purchased by William Philip Perrin, Esq. who resides at Tanhurst in this parish. This gentleman has thoroughly repaired the tower ; and by raising it some feet higher has rendered it still more conspicuous as a sea-mark ; but the lower part is now completely walled up, so as to form one solid mass, and to deprive the curious visitor of the pleasure which its founder designed to afford. Holmbury is a large camp, on the eastern declivity, near the summit of a considerable eminence to which it gives name, on the confines of the parishes of Shire, Ewhurst, Abinger, and Ockley. It is a work of very inegular form, having an entrance near the north- SURREY. 1G7 north-west angle, and another near the south-east; and ia fortified ''^ ' with a double trench, except on the east, south, and south-west, where the J>recipice rendered it unnecessary, and where, on tliat account, it has but a single one. The area within is eight acres, three roods, thirteen poles. This camp, supposed to be of Ro- man construction, is about two miles from the Stane Street road, and about as fer in a direct line West of the camp called Hanstie' bury. The Hundred of Copthorne and Effingham is situated nearly in the centre of the county, having the hun- dreds of Croydon and Reigate on the east^ Woking on the west, Emley Bridge and Croydon on the north, and Reigate and Dork- ing on the south. It is in the deanery of Ewell, and compre- hends the parishes of Ashted, Branstead, Great Bookham, Little Bookham, Chessington, Effingham, Epsom, Ewell, Fetcham, Hedley, Letherhead, Mickleham, Newdigate, and Walton on the Hill. This hundred, with its jurisdiction and the privileges belong- ing to it, was granted by the charter of Charles I. in 1638, t9 th^ Corporation of Kingston. Ewell is the only place in this hundred that has the name, but very littie of the appearance, of a market on Thursday. That mar- kets were held here in the middle of the 17th century appearg • by the following entry in the Parish Register:—*' Matthew Mountagew of Cohham, and Agatha Turner of Leatherhead, their agreement of marridge was three market-dayes published in the market of Ewell, and they were married by Justis Marsh of Darkin, the 3d of July, 1654." A few years since a small mar- ket-house was still standing at the intersection of the roads to London and Kingston ; but it was removed for the, purpose of widening them. Near the spot occupied by it rises a spring of beautiful clear water, which soon forms a stream called llogrsmill M 4 Rrv er, 168 SURREY. River, and in its process to the Thames turns several corn and gunpowder-mills. The Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is built of flints, inter- mixed with chalk, and has a tower of the same, but finished with brick-work, and four small pinnacles. It contains some curious raonumenls of considerable antiquity. Among those of more modern date are the tombs of Sir Richard Bulkeley, Bart.* and his lady, who both died in 1710, in their 47th year; Sir William Lewen, Alderman and Lord Mayor of London, in 1717, ^•lio died in 1721, aged sixty-five; and Sir Richard and Lady Glyn, and their son, Richard Lewen, major in the 81st regi- ment, who died in St. Domingo, in 1795, aged twenty-five. Sir Richard Glyn was Lord Mayor of London in 1758, and repre- sented that city in two parliaments. He was created a baronet in 1759; and at his decease, in 1773, was laember for Coventry, 7)resident of Bridewell and Bethlem Hospitals, and vice-president of the Artillery Company. At * Sir Richard Bulkeley possessed considerable property, and was a man of good spnse and learning j but became entangled with a parlv of French enthiisiasts, who pretended to prophesy, and so embarrassed his affairs that lie was obliged to sell his estate. Aubrey says that he prostituted his pen in their defence, but does not give the title of any book written by him. In his person he was very short and crooked, and expected under the new dispensa- tion to be made straight and handsome in a miraculous manner ; but to his great disappointment he died before the miracle was completed. After the first prosecution of these enthusiasts, and when Mr. Emms, one of their follow- ers, had not risen from the dead, on a particular day, according to their pre- diction, government intended to proceed more vigorously against them. Or- ders were givet) to the Attorney General to prosecute Sir Richard Bulkeley, ^nd others who were ringleaders in the affair. Before any farther measures were pursued. Lord Godolphin and Mr. Hartley sent a gentleman to Dr. Calamy to consult him on the subject. The doctor, after maturely consider- ing the matter, gave it as his opinion, that it would be best for the government to remain quiet, and not offer the least molestation to the new prophet or his abettors. In consequence of this advice these enthusiasts soon sunk into cori- tempt, and dwindled away. (MS. Journal of Dr. Calamy in his Life. Bir>g. Brit, second edit. IIL 144.), SURREY. 169 At this place was born, in 1582, Richard Corbet. He was educated at Westminster School, and thence removed to Clirist Church, Oxford. He afterwards became an eminent preacher, and chaplain to James I. by wliom he was promoted, in 1620, to the Deanery of Christ Church, being at the same time vicar of Cassington, near Woodstock, and prebendary of Salisbury. In 1628, he was consecrated Bishop of Oxford, from which see he was, in 1632, translated to the see of Norwich*. Epsom is a large and remarkably pleasant village, on the road from London to Dorking and Guildford. It had formerly a weekly market on Friday, now discontinued. Towards the conclusion of the 17th, and the beginning of the last century, Epsom was a place of fashionable resort, on account of its mineral vi'aters. The spring, situated on the common, half a mile west of the vil- lage, was the first of the kind discovered in England. It was accidentally found in 1618, or, according to another account, about the end of Queen Elizabeth's reign. Its beneficial proper- ties soon became generally known, and began to attract strangers, for whose accommodation the lord of the manor erected a shed, and inclosed the pond formed by the spring. About 1640, the fame of these waters had spread into France, Germany, and other countries ; and from them were prepared salts, for which, though sold at five shillings an ounce, the demand was greater than (Could be supplied. About 1609, the concourse of families and foreigners resorting to the well was so great that Mr. Parkhurst, then lord of the manor, enlarged the first building, by erecting a ball-room, planted a long walk of elms from the London road and avenues leading in different directions. The village in- creased, many lodging-houses were erected, and yet the place could not contain all the company; so that neither Bath nor Tunbridge exceeded it in splendour, or could boast more distin^ guished ♦ See Beauties, Vol. IX. Korfolk, p. 31, 32 170 guished visitors. About the beginning of the last century these, craters gradually lost their reputation, through the knavery of one Levingston, an apothecary, who having purchased a piece of land here, built a large house, with an assembly-room, and sunk a well. By means of concerts, balls, and other diversions, he contrived to allure the company from the Old Well ; and at length getting the lease of tlie latter into his hands he locked up the place. The new water, however, was found not to possess the virtues of the old, and Epsom began to be deserted. At the expiration of the lease Mr. Parkhurst repaired the buildings of the old well ; and if the town was not so much visited by stran- gers, it was at least frequented by the neighbouring gentry, who had a public breakfast here every Monday in the summer. This practice was at length wholly superseded by the new fashion of sea-bathing. In 1804, the old building was pulled down, and a dwelling-house erected on its site. The well is preserved. The manor of Ebbisham belonged at the time of the Domesday Survey to the Abbey of Chertsey, the monks of which were licensed to have a park here, shut up whenever they pleased. This is supposed to be what is now called Woodcote Park, about a mile southward of the village. It was long the residence of the proprietors of the manor, till given, towards the conclusion of the 17th century, by Mrs. Evelyn to Lord Baltimore. The last pos- sessor of that family led a dissolute life, and in March, 1768, was tried at Kingston Assizes for a rape on Sarah Woodcock, a milliner, whom he had sent to his house here. He narrowly escaped being convicted ; soon afterwards he sold his estate at this place, went abroad, and died at Naples, in 1771 *. The mansion * Respecting lliis nobleman the following anecdotes are given in a German periodica! publication, intituled Ulla I'odvida, for 1785 (Part IV. p. 45.) <* Lord Biiltiniorc, avIio published Retnarh on Constantinople and the Turh, made in 1768, and a.Tourin the Levant, in 1769, determined to keep constantly travelling, that, as he said, he might not know where he should be buried. In 1709, he travelled with eight women, a physician, and two blacks, who were entrusterf Ml ■.aKsion and park of Woodcole were purchased l>y the late Lewu. Tessipr, Eso. lo whose family they now belong. Horton Park, which was also' the property of Lord Bi.ltimore, is the residence of James Trotter, Esq. who was high sheriff of the county in 1798. , r i Durdans is said by Aubrey to have been built by the Earl of Berkeley with the materials of Nousuch palace, when it was demolished by the Duchess of Cleveland, and is erroneously stated by him to have been the scene of the intrigue between Lord Grey of Werk and his wife's sister; which was not carried on at Durdans, but at another house of the Berkeieys at the west end of the town, where the workhouse now stands. This first structure, which was once inhabited by the father of his present majesty, being destroyed by fire, a new mansion was' erected by Mr. Dalbiac, and is now the residence of Charles Black- man, Esq. In the Church is interred Sir Robert, eldest son of tlie cele- brated lawver. Sir Edward Coke, ..ho died in 1653, and Robert Coke, Esq. whose fatlier was the sixth son of the Lord Chief Jus- tice. ' Here are several monuments by Flaxmau ; among the rest one for that eminent sel.olar the Rev. John Parkhurst, author of a Greek and Hebrew Lexicon, who resided at Epsom, and died m 1797, in his sixty-ninth year. On the tomb-stone of one of the same family, in the church-yard, is this ^vhimsical inscription: Here lielli the carcase Ot honest Charles Parkhurst Who iie're could dance or sing, But always was true to His Sovereign Lord tlie King, Charles the First. Oh. Dec. XX. MDCCIV. a tat LXXXVL Here entrusted with the superintendence of his little seraglio. With the assistance of his Esculapius he made some singular experiments upon his Hoi.ns; feed- iwr suet. a. were iuciined to be fat on acid aliments alone, and those of a ^ contrary 1T2 SURREY. Here is an Alms-house, and also a Charity School; and on tlic neighoouring down is a four-mile course, where the annual race«, lield three days before the Whitsuu-week, are numerously at- tended. Letherhead, a small town, on a rising ground, on the east bank of the Mole, bad anciently a market, which has long been discontinued. It consists of four streets intersecting in the centre, and containing several, good mansions. From the opposite hill in the road from Guildford, the church with its lofty tower rising above the houses, and the buildings which appear interspersed in a rich wood of trees, form one of those striking views that all travellers of taste view with delight. A large house in the South Street has been called the mansion- house. Here Lord Chancellor Jefferyes resided, in 1688, when a daughter of his was buried at this place, as appears by the Re- gister. It was rebuilt, about 1710, by Dr. Akehurst, a physician, and passed to General Gore, whose female heir married the late William Wade, Esq. long master of the ceremonies at Bath ami Brighton. The Church-house, so called from its adjoining the church-yard, though never connected with the rectory or vicarage, is of timber frame at least as old as the reign of Elizabeth. It belonged to Philip Dacres, Esq. from whose hejr it passed to the Gores. The lieclory -house, at a small distance from the south end of the town, was much improved and ornamented with plan- tations, by Mr. Hague, about forty years ago. It is now the re- sidence of J. R. Whitefoord, Esq. Nearer to Mickleham is Gib- boil's Ch-ove, pleasantly situated, belonging to Mr. Boulton, and now inhabited by his son Captain Boulton. Near contrary disposition, with milk, soups, and nutritious diet. On his arrival with this retinue at Vienna, the inspector of liie police begged to be informed which of the eight ladies was his wife. He returned this message, that " he was an Englisliman, and wherever he was called to account about his mar- riage, he immediately left that place, unless au opportunity was afforded him of boxing it out." 173 Near the bridge is a small public-house, Nvhicli, to judge from its appearance, may be the same in which Eleanor Rumniiiig. sold the ale celebrated by Skelton, poet lauroat to Henry VII. and VIII. It is of timber, witii overhanging cluiinbers, the roof still covered with Sussex slate, formerly mucli used in this county for that purpose when the builders had plenty of timber to support its weight.* The Church is an ancient structure, consisting of a nave and two aisles, with a north and south transept. In the centre of the latter was Aperderley*s chauntry, inclosed with neat Gothic carved open wainscoting of oak, the greater part of which still remains. The nave and aisles are of the coarse parochial archi' tecture in use about the middle of the thirteenth century, with lancet arclies, and circular or octangular pillars. Tliis was the original church. When the priory and convent of Leeds obtained the impropriation about 134(5, they rebuilt and added the tower, transept, and chancel. These are all in the style of that ai^e, as are the windows, divided by mullions, with ornamented intersec- tions in the heads. In the chancel, near the altar, are three arcades, consisting of subsellia and a piscina. The former are not graduated as usual, and were not intended for three priests, but for the Augustine canons of Leeds, when they should make a visitation. A very general repair of the church took place at the commencement of the last century, when the interior was mo- dernized. In • Skelton, and other courtiers, probably u»ed this house when the king was at Nonsuch. He entitles his poem, " The Tunning of Eljnor Rum- niiug, the famous de-wile of England j" and says that her wonning (dwel- ling) was " in a certain stede besyde Ledeihedc." The wood cut of he.--, given in Skcltoji's poems printed for J. King, 1761, 8vo. has been eagcrlr sought after by collectors. It has this i«scription : When Skelton wore the laurel crown. My ale put all the ale-wives down. Granger properly describes it as the portrait of an ill-favored old woman. Her descendants ap[)ear from the Rcgiiter to have continued here more thaw a century later. 174 SURREY. In this church is interred Sir James Wishart, who attained to the rank of admiral in 1 703, but wa^ dismissed the service i« 1715; with a long Latin inscription by bis brother, the lord pro- vosl cf Edinburgh. He died in 1723, aged 74*. Hero, too, are memorials for Lieutenant-General Francis Langston, who dted in 1714, aged 60; Mary, wife of the Hon. Brigadier- General Thomas Pagett, who died commander in chief of the British forces at Mahon in Minorca, about two months after his wife, in 1740; and Lieutenant General Humphrey Gore, Governor of Kinsale, and Colonel of the King's own Regiment of Dra- goons, who died in 1739, in his 69th year. Here also is in- terred Harriet Mary Cbolmondeley, granddaughter of George Earl Cbolmondeley, who, in 1806, passing through Letherhead in a barouche, with her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales and Lady Sheffield, to Norbury Park, was thrown with them out of the carriage at the corner opposite the Swan Inn, and killed on the spot. At this place is a brick bridge of fourteen arches over tlie Mole between eighty and one hundred yards in length, and twenty feet wide within the walls. Not far from the town is Randalls, the seat of Sir John Cog- hill, Bart, which stands on the bank. of the Mole in a park of sixty acres ; and Thorncroft, a handsome new mansion, erected after a design of Sir Robert Taylor, by the uncle of Henry Boulton, Esq. the present proprietor. It is situated on the banks of the Mole, on a manor which has belonged to Merton College, Oxford, ever since its original foundation, and has always beea the residence of gentlemen as lessees of that society. Ashted Park, in the parish of the same name, consists of about 140 acres, inclosed with a brick wall. The church stands in the park ; and close to it was situated the old mansion, to which the Earl of Arundel oftaf resorted, and where Sir Robert Howard received the visits of King Charles II. The table at which • His portrait is among those of the admirals at Hampton Court, in whick be is effoaeously called Sir John PFisheart. SURREY. ^''^ ^liich he used to dine was preserved till the old house was pulled down by Richard Howard, Esq. the present owner, who has built an elegant mansion at a small distance from the former site. The sUahles belonging to it are magnificent. The Downs of Bansted are celebrated for the^extensive views which their elevated situation commands on every side, for the salubrity of the air, and the excellence of the mutton that is fed upon them. Nork, the seat of Lord Arden, in this parish, was built by Christopher Buckle, Esq. who died in 1759. Bansted Park, which comprehended 160 acres of wood, has long since been dis- parked, though some lands still retain the name. The mansion of Great Burrough, which manor, with three others out of the seven contained in the parish, belongs to Christopher Buckle, Esq. the sixth of that name in succession, appears to be of the age of James I. The present owner has erected a smaller house on the edge of Bansted Heath, to which he has given the name of Little Burroughs where he now resides. There is a tradition that Great Burrough House occupies the site of a Roman fortification : but it is more probable that it may stand on that of one of the many barrows which have been scattered over the grounds and the adjacent downs. Gale, indeed, in hi» Commentary on Antoninus, speaks of Burrough as one of those places where garrisons were without doubt established from the time of the Erst Roman victories. Their road from Arundel cer- tainly passed very near tins spot in its course from Mickleham to Woodcote. In the parish of Great Bookham is Eastwkk House, for- merly the residence of the Earls of Effingham, till it was settled by Thomas, the second earl, as part of the jointure of his coun- tess, the daughter of William Beckford, Esq. In 1801 it was sold to James Laurel, Esq. who altered the house, and covered the brick front with stucco. It is surrounded by a park of near 400 acres. Bookham Grove was originally a small cottage fitted up for a Q shooting- SVRREY. shooting-box by the late General Thomas Howard. As the high road passed directly iu front of it, he procured its removal to the present situation, leaving a 1 iwn before the house, which is sur- rounded by a plantation, and has about seventy acres ou the south and east sides. His son. Sir George Howard, sold it to Admi- ral Brodrick, who built the present house. In 1775 it became the property of Viscount Downe ; after whose death, in 1780, his lady made it her residence during the remainder of her life. Polesdon, on the soutli side of this parish, was purchased of Sir AVilliam Geary, Bart, in 1804, by the trustees of the Right Hon. R. B. Sheridan. The grounds contain about 340 acres, - and contain a tt rrace-walk 900 feet in length. CuDDiNGTON, a small parish in the northern extremity of the hundred, now known by name only, affords a striking instance of the instability of human splendor. Here Henry VIIl. towards the conclusion of his reign, erected a palace of such extraordinary magnihcence, tliat it received tlie appellation of Nonsuch ; but in little more than a century this edifice was levelled with the ground ; and not a vestige now marks the spot on which it stood. The old mansion-house and the church were demolished to give place to the palace, to which were attached two parks, com- prehending together about 1600 acres. The larger of these was afterwards called Worcester Park, but from what circum- stance is not known. Death prevented the king from completing his plan ; the house was left unfinished ; and Queen Mary would have pulled it down to save farther expense, had not Henry, Earl of Arundel, " for the love and honour he bare to his olde maister,''* purchased the estate, and accomplished the intentions of the royal founder. The magnificence of this mansion has been celebrated both by native and foreign writers. Camden says : " it is built with so much splendour and elegance, that it stands a monument of art; and you would think the whole science of architecture exhausted on this building. It has such a profusion of animated statues and finished * MS. Life of ihe Earl of Arundel in the British Museum. SURREY. 177 fiuisheJ pieces of art, rivalling the monuments of ancient Rome itself, that it justly has, and maintains its name, from thence." Hentzner, a German, who visited England in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and of whose account a translation was printed by the late Earl of Orford at Strawberry-hill, speaks nearly in the same terms of Nonsuch, and gives some details respecting the grounds^ but the most particular description is that contained in the Survey taken by order of the Parliament in 1650. Nonsuch House is there said to be a fayer, stronge and large structure, or build- ing of free-stone, of two large stories high, well wrought and bat- tled with stone, and covered with blue slate, standing round a court of 150 foote long, and 132 foote broad, paved with stone, com- monly called the outward courte : a gate-house leading into the outward courte aforesaid, being a building very strong and grace- full, being three stories high, leaded overhead, battled and tur- retted in every of the four corners thereof ; consisting also of another very faire and curious structure, or building of two sto- ries high, the lower story whereof is very good and well- wrought free-stone, and the higher of wood, richly adorned and set forth, and garnished with variety of statues, pictures, and other antic formes of excellent art and workmanship, and of no small cost ; all which building lying almost upon a square, is covered with blue slate, and incloseth one faire and large court of 137 foot broad, and 116 foot long, all paved with free-stone, commonly called the inner court. The inner court stands higher than the outward court by an ascent of eight steps, leading therefrom through a a gate-house of free-stone, three stories high, leaded and turret- ted at the four corners. This last mentioned gate-house, stand- ing between the inward and the outward court, is of most excellent workmanship, and a very special ornament to Nonsuch House. On the east and west corners of the inner court building are placed two large and well built turrets of five stories, each of them containing five rooms, the highest of which rooms, toge- ther with the lanthorns of the same, are covered with lead, and battled round with frames of wood covered with lead ; these tur- VoL. XIV. N rets 17« SURREV. rets command the prospect and view of both the parks of Non* such, and most of the country round about, and are the chief ornaments of Nonsuch House."* The " statues, pictures, and antick formes," mentioned in this Survey, are said, in a manu« script note by Le Neve, who saw this edifice before its demoli- tion, to have been of '* plaster-work made of rye-dough, in ima- gery very costly." The materials of the house were valued by the parliamentary commissioners at 70201, After the decease of the Earl of Arundel, his son-in-law. Lord Lumley, conveyed this estate to the crown in 1591. Nonsuch afterwards became a favourite residence of Queen Elizabeth ; and it was here that the Earl of Essex first experienced her displea- sure. It was settled upon Anne, Queen of James I.; and in the following reign on Queen Henrietta Maria. In 1670-1, Charles II. granted Nonsuch, with both the parks, to George Viscount Grandison, and Henry Brouncker, Esq. in trust for the Vis- count's niece, Barbara, whom the king created Duchess of Cleveland and Baroness of Nonsuch.f This lady pulled down both * Tlie original of this Survey is deposited in the Augmentation Office ; it is printed in the fifth volume of the ArchtsAogia. t The duchess was the wife of Roger Palmer, created Earl of Castleraaine. She was very beautiful, and equally rapacious, prodigal, and revengeful. She had for a considerable time a groat and dangerous influence over the king. She was an inveterate enemy of the Earl of Clarendon, who thought it degrading to his character to shew even common civilities, much more to pay his court, to the mistress of any monarch. The king could not be an ab- solute stranger to her intrigues, which, according to the memoirs of the times, were very open, and often with such men as Hall, a rope-dancer, and Good- man, a player. The former was famous for the symmetry and elegance of his person, as well as for his strength. Mr. Wycheriey was one of her paramours. When the king left her, he conferred on her the above-mentioned titles. Slie afterwards gave her hand to Robeit Fielding, better known by the name of Beaxi Fielding, a man as handsome and as profligate as herself. He had mar- ried a woman supposed to possess a large fortune; but discovering that in fact she had none, he forsook her, and accepted the duchess, whom he treated with insolence and brutality. She found out his former marriage, prosecuted, him for bigamy, and he was found guilty, but pardoaed by Queen Aiuxe» (^Granger II. -l^JS, 461, 294.) iSURREt. both the palace and Worcester House, and turned the parks into farms. At her death in 1709, tlie duchess left them both to hef grandson, the Duke of Grafton, whose successor sold them in 1731. Worcester Park is now the property of William Taylor* Esq. who has a mansion and extensive gunpowder mills adjoining^ to the park, but in the parish of Long Dilton. The little park was purchased of the Duke of Grafton by Joseph Thon>pson, Esq. who built a house at some distance from the site of the palace ; but this has been taken down by the present owner, Samuel Far- mer, Esq. who has erected in its stead a capital mansion, in the Gothic style. In the parish of Mickleham is Norbury Park, the residence of William Lock, Esq. whose father, in 1774, purchased this estate of Anthony Chapman, Esq. The mansion then standing in a low situation near the Mole, which washes the boundary of the park, being decayed and ruinous, Mr. Lock pulled down the greatest part of it, reserving the north end for his farm, and on a bill commanding delicious and extensive prospects, erected one of the most beautiful seats in the county. The arcliitecture, though striking, is not quite regular ; but the edifice is well fitted to reign over the domain in which it is placed. The sides of the principal rooms are painted by Barrett, with views of the romantic mountains and lakes of Cumberland and Westmoreland, which are so managed as to have the appearance of being a con- tinuation of the surrounding scenery. The park, which is exten* sive and agreeably diversified, is embellished with plantations disposed with the utmost taste. No place of equal extent in Surrey is supposed to possess so many valuable walnut-trees as Norbury Park, which, about a century ago, was said to contain no fewer than forty thouisand. It is remarked as a proof of the uncertainty of their produce, that in some years 6001. worth of walnuts have been gathered from the trees in this park, whereas in others they have yielded scarcely a single bushel. The parish of Mickleham contains several other elegant man- sions, among which are those of Lady Talbot, and Sir Lncas Pepys. It likewise comprehends the greatest part of Box-hill, N 5J which 180 SURREY. which here rises abruptly from the Mole that washes its foot. From the highest point of this celebrated l)iU the eye expatiates, on a clear day, over the intervening country quite to the South Downs of Sussex, near the sea, and ranges in a northern direc- tion beyond the metropolis over great part of Middlesex. On the top Mr. Peters, of Bcachworth Castle, the present owner, has a farm-yard : and it is a remarkable circumstance, tliat from a spring here water is obtained at only fifteen feet from the surface of the ground, though at Denbiglis, on the opposite hill, it is drawn from the depth of 400 feet. From the remains of ancient buildings discovered at Walton- ON-THE-HiLL, there is every reason to suppose that it was once a Roman station. These remains, consisting chiefly of Roman bricks and tiles, were found towards the south end of Walton- heath, about half a mile west of the turnpike-road from London to Reigate, on a piece of ground covered with grass only, and not with brakes and heath like the rest of the common. This spot, containing about a quarter of an acre, is full of little hillocks, and has the appearance of the foundation of some building. An account of these relics, and also of a small brass figure of Esculapius dug up at the same place in 1772, was given in the Archaeologia* by Mr. Barnes, who, in a second search made in 1808, traced the foundations of some ancient buildings. The piece of ground in question lies within a large inclosure of earth-work, three sides of which remain : but tlie fourth is lost in fields. About a quarter of a mile from this spot is a much larger inclosure of the same kind, three sides of which may also be traced ; but tlie banks which run from south to north are in like manner lost in inclosures near the village and church of Walton, which would have been taken in, if tlie east and west lines had extended a little farther to the north, as there is reason to believe they did. About half a mile westward of the place where the antiquities were discovered, are the remains of a well lined with flints, which is conjectured to have been a work of the Romans, and to have served for the supply of the station. Walton • Vol. IX. p. 108. SURREY. 181 Walton church is built with flints and stones, intermixed with ^ome Roman tiles. The font is a curious piece of workmanship of lead ; round it are nine figures, in a sitting posture, with their faces much damaged. The Hundred of Kingston is bounded on the east by Brixton ; on the south by Emley- bridge; on tlie north by the Thames, which divides it from Mid- dlesex; and on the west by the same river and the hundred of Emley-bridge. It belongs to the deanery of Ewell, and contains the parishes of Kingston, Lang Ditton, Maldon, Richmond, Kew, and Petersham, The jurisdiction of this hundred was granted by a charter of Edward IV. in 1481, to the corporation of Kingston ; to whom it was confirmed by a farther grant of Cliarles I. in 1638. Kingston on the Thames is thus denominated from its situation on the east bank of the river, about twelve miles south-west of London. In 1801 the town and parish contained 676 houses, and 3793 inhabitants. Whatever credit may be given to the conjectures of Gale, Horsley, and other writers, respecting the antiquity of this town, there is no room to doubt that the Romans, during some period of their residence in Britain, had here a considerable station. On the neighbouring hills about Comb have been dug up many coins of the emperors, particularly of Diocles:an, the Maximinians, Maximus, and Constantine the Great; also, as Leland informs us, divers coynes of brasse, sylver, and gold, with Romaine inscriptions, and paintid yerthen pottes or tyles ; and yn one, in Cardinal Wolsey's tyme, was found much Romayne mony of syl- ver, and masses to bete into plates to coyne, and chaynes of syl- ver."* Eastward of this place, on a gravelly hill near the road, was a burial place of the Romans, where are often found urns and pieces of urns, which lie about two feet deep in the earth. One, in particular, was discovered about the year 1670, of a kind of amber colour, filled up half way with black ashes, and at the bot- N 3 torn • Leland's Itin. VI. 25. 182 SURREY. torn something like coarse hair, as if laid there hefore. Some persons digging here in October, 1722, also found a great num- ber of urns and Roman antiquities. The Roman town itself seems to have stood on this spot ; for Leiand, speaking of the old monuments of the town of Kingston, discovered hereabouts, tells us, that besides the coins of their emperors already mentioned, " yn the declyving down from Comb Park toward the galoys, yn ploughing and digging have very often beene founde fundations of waulles of houses." In later times, that is, after the arrival of the Saxons, this place, as we are informed by Camden, apparently upon the authority of Matthew Paris, was called Moreford, which signifies the Great Ford, being situated on a level where it was much exposed to in- undations ; and he adds, that " out of this^ which was the first Saxon town here, hath arisen the present." Leiand also mentions it as a tradition among tlie inhabitants in hjs time, that " the bridge where the commune passage was over the Tamise at olde ICingston, (i. e. the first Saxon town above-mentioned,) was lower on the ry ver then it is now : and when men began the new town, yn the Saxon tymes also, they toke from the very clive of Comb Parke side (where the Roman town or w^ork had been,) to build on the Tamise side, and sette a aew bridge hard by the same."* Kingston has been the theatre of several remarkable events. In 838, being the 39th year of Egbert, a general council was held at this place, at which were present the king himself, Ethel- wulph, his son, Ceolnoth, Archbishop of Canterbury, with others of the prelates and nobility of the realm; and here, as our an- cient chronicles testify, many of the Saxon kings were crowned. From this circumstance it has been supposed by some to have acquired its present name ; but the fact is, that it was so called at least as early as the Council of Egbert, though none of our kings appears to have been crowned here before Edmund the Elder, A. D. 900. It seems more reasonable, therefore, to derive its modern name from the well-known circumstance of its always having been a royal fortress and ancient demesne of the crown ; for^ • Leland's Ilin. VI. 25. SDRREY. 183 ^br, as Gale observes, " d Saxonum higrcssu, regium semper fuit castrum ct sacri patrimonii pars." * It is related by Hemingford f , that when King Henry III. had dispossessed the barons of the towns of Northampton and Not- tingham, in the beginning of April 1*264, and been informed, on his way to liOndon, that the Earls of Leicester and Gloucester, at the head of the citizens, were on their march to oppose him, he prudently declined to meet them; and tnrning aside to Kingston, possessed himself of the castle there belonging to the Earl of Gloucester. This account is retailed by Lambarde, and on these authorities Camden also has asserted, that this place " was onc« famous for the castle of the Clares, Earls of Gloucester. But as the family of Clare had no possessions in this place, upon or for the defence of which they could be supposed to have erected a castle ; so neither are there any vestiges of such a structure. It is not improbable indeed, that the Earl of Clare and Gloucester, a principal leader of the insurgents in these parts, having made him- self master of the passage of the river at this place, erected for its security a temporary fort, which the historians of the times dig-- nified with the name of a castle. On the 6th of February, 1553-4, Sir Thomas Wyat, having lain three days before London Bridge, without being able to force a passage, marched to Kingston ; on which occasion a great part of the bridge was broken down, and 200 men posted on the oppo» site bank to defend the passage ; but on sight of two pieces of ordnance thej marched off ; and Sir Thomas, having repaired the bridge with planks and ladders, continued his route on that side of the water to the metropolis. During the contest between Charles I. and the Parliament, the inhabitants of Kingston were remarkable for their attachment to the royal cause : and here the last struggle was made in behalf of the unfortunate monarch. During his imprisonment in the Isle x>f Wight, in 1648, the Earl of Holland persuaded the Duke of N 4 Buckingham • Comm. in Antonin, Itin. p. 72. '1^ Hist, Ang. Scrip. Quinque, p. 582. 184 SURREY. Buckingham and his brother Lord Francis Villiers to join him in an ill-concerted attempt. Having assembled here about 600 horse, they avowed their intention of releasing the king, and bringing him to Parliament to restore peace, and preserve the laws. A declaration to this effect was sent to the citizens of London, who were invited to join them. The Parliament im- mediately dispatched some troops of horse from Windsor, u^ider Colonel Pritty, who found the Royalists ill prepared for defence. On the 1st of July a skirmish took place near Surbiton Common, when the Earl's party were soon defeated. He fled to Harrow, where he was taken ; the Duke escaped, but Lord Francis was killed. He behaved with extraordinary courage; and after his horse had been killed under him, stood with his back against a tree, defending himself till he sunk under his wounds. The initials of his name were inscribed on the tree, and remained till it was cut down in 1680*. Kingston was first incorporated by King John, in the first year of his reign ; and the privileges conferred by his charter were confirmed, and extended by succeeding monarchs. The corporation consists of bailifl^s, high steward, recorder, town clerk, justices, &c. who are authorised to hold a court every week for the decision of all kinds of pleas and actions. The Hundred Court also, a court of ancient demesne, is held before the bailiflfs and suitors once in three weeks. This town was represented in five Parliaments from 4 Edward n. to 47 Edward II L Prynne asserts, that it was one of those boroughs which had burgesses returned for them against their inv clination, but which, on their petition to the king, were exempted from this burden. The market granted by the charter of James I. is on Satur- days; and the town has three annual fairs; on Whit-Thursday and two following days for horses and toys; on the 2d, 3d, and 4th of August for fruit, principally cherries and pedlai^ ; and on the 13th of November for cattle of the Welch, Scotch, and Irish breeds, and * Aubrey, Vol. I. p. 47. SURREY. 185 and also hogs and sheep. This last is frequented by farmers from all the neig^hbouring counties. The houses of Kingston are in general low, and rather mean ; but it has a spacious market-place, at the north end of which stands the Town Hall, detached from all other buildings. The market is held in the lower part, which is chiefly open ; but the south end is closed in the time of the assizes, and used by the judge on the Ciown side. The room above is appropriated to the judge who sits at Nisi Prius, and the north end of the latter is the grand jury room, which at other times is used by the Corporation. The judges, who always hold the Lent Assizes here, have frequently complained of the inconvenience of these courts; and it must be confessed that they make a bad figure when compared with the magnificent buildings which have been erected in some other counties. The front is decorated by a statue of Queen Anne : and in the hall is a portrait of the same princess. In 1808, an act passed for enlarging or rebuilding this structure ; but it has not yet been carried into execution. The Bridge at Kingston is doubtless the oldest on the river Thames, except London bridge. It is an ordinary structure of timber, so inartificially put together as to warrant the inference, that wliatever changes it has undergone in its materials from fre- every year, when the go- vernors meet to settle the accounts. Over the door of the chapel is an inscription, recording its foundation in 1668, by William Cleave, Alderman of London. The rents of the estate with which he endowed this institution amount at present to 2341. 10s. per annum. In 33 Edward I. a chapel dedicated to Mary Magdalen was built at Kingston, at the cost of Richard Lovekyn, citizen of London, but a native of this place, who endowed it for one chap- lain to perform divine service there every day. His son John rebuilt this cliapel, and in 1352, obtained letters patent, autho- rizing him to extend the foundation by the addition of another chaplain, and liberally endowed it. He also drew up ordinances and provisions for the good government of this institution, ac- cording to which, one of these chaplains was to have the title o£ custos, or warden, and to preside over such others as on a far- ther increase of the revenues might be received into the esta- blishment. To this foundation William Walworth, some time the apprentice of Lovekyn, and afterwards the famous Lord Mayor of London, Queen Mary, to liis seat at Kingston, where he was suffered to remain unmo- lested. Fuller, in his Church History, quotes from a book of Sir John Cheke's, intituled " The i'Tue Subject to tlie Rebellion, 1641," one of his sermons which begins thus : " Arriving at the Mount of St. Marie's in the stony stage where 1 now stand, I have brought you some fine biskets, baked in the oven of Charity, carefully conserved for the chicken of the Church, the sparrows of iht spirit, and the sweet swallows of salvation." SURREY. 187 London, added another chaplain, and amply provided for his sup- porj;. Whether this institution received any farther accessions we are not informed ; hut it subsisted till 1 Edward V. when by the act for dissolving free chapels, chantries, &c. all its possessions became vested in the Crown. This building was granted by Queen Elizabeth to the bailiffs of Kingston and their successors, for the purpose of founding a Free Grammar School, which she afterwards endowed for the support of an upper and under mas- ter, with estates in this town formerly belonging to the Carthu- sian priory in London. It was a handsome edifice, and has pre- served its form with little alteration, being a room thirty-eight feet in length, sixteen feet nine inches in breadth, and of propor- tionate height. Adjoining to it was a small chapel, called St. Ann's, and on the soutli side another named St. Loy's. On the site of the latter, and of the ancient manse, or habitation of the chaplains, has been erected a dwelling of modern date, which is the residence of the master ; but no boys belonging to the town have been sent to the school for many years. The Church is dedicated to All Saints. Its original form, being that of a cross, may still be discerned ; but it has under- gone so total a change by repairs as to have the appearance of a new building. The only part which exhibits a specimen of the ancient state of the whole is the south aisle of the chancel, which is built of chalk, irregularly intermixed with flints. The inside consists of a nave, with its north and south aisles, from each of which it is separated by four pointed arches, supported by low octangular columns. These aisles were rebuilt of brick, and the interior of 'the church completely repaired, in 1721. At the west end is a gallery with a handsome organ ; on the south side are two other galleries, and over the north aisle is a fourth. The length of the nave and chancel is 145, that of the transept, which is the greatest breadth of the church, 971 feet; the whole, par- ticularly the nave, being very lofty. In the centre of the build- ing, where the transept intersects the main body, stands the tower, on which was formerly a spire of timbers covered witli lead. This steeple 188 SURREY. steeple was destroyed by lightning, February I, 1444-5, in a storm by which the churches of Baldock in Hertfordshire, Wal- den, and Waltham in Essex, and St. Paul in London, were also much damaged. The steeple, being again repaired, continued till November 26, 1703, when both the spire and tower received so tnuch injury from the memorable storm of wind which happened on that day, that the inhabitants were obliged to take down the former, and great part of the latter, which was replaced with brick-work. No part of the present structure appears to be older than the reign of Richard II. ; the south chancel, separated from the middle chancel by pointed Gothic arches, and light clustered columns, seems to be of about that age. Both these chancels are surrounded with wooden stalls. In the south chancel is a piscina witli a rich Gothic canopy. In 1459, a chauntry was founded and endowed in this church, by William Skerne, for one chaplain; and, in 1477, Robert Bardesey of Kingston obtained a licence to establish a gild, or fraternity, composed of clergy and laity, and of persons of both sexes, by the style and title of Two Wardens of the Fraternity of the Holy Trinity in Kingston, and of the Brethren and Sisters of the same. Adjoining to the south side of the chancel was a chapel, dedi- cated to the Virgin Mary ; but we have no account of its founda- tion. In this chapel were preserved portraits of several of the Saxon kings who had been crowned there, and also of King John, to whom the town owed its first charier. These relics of antiqui- ty were destroyed by the fall of the chapel in 1730 *. Of the numerous sepulchral memorials in the church, one of the * By this accident, the sexton, who happened to be digging a grave at the time, w:is buried under the ruins with liis daughter and another person. The daughter, though she lay covered under the rubbish seven liours, survived the misfortune fifteen years, and was her father's successor. The memory of this event is preserved by a curious print of this female sexton^ engraved by James JVl'Ardeil, from a painting by J. Butler. SURREY. 189 the most ancient and remarkable is tliat of Robert Skerne, wlio, with his wife, is pourtrayed on a brass-plate, in a gown that reaches down to his feet, with wide sleeves. The girdle is studded with roses. The curious inscription, in Latin verse, and in black letter, is placed the wrong way upwards. Skerne's wife is said to have been the daughter of the celebrated Alice Pierce, or Perress, the reputed mistress of Edward III. but whether by Sir William de Wyndesore, who married her after the king's death, is not known. He lived at Downe Hall, in this parish, and had a grant of the custody of Richmond Park. Here are also monuments for Sir Anthony Benn, Recorder of London, who died in 1618 ; the Honourable Anthony Fane, third son of the Earl of Westmoreland, who was a colonel in the Par- liament army, and fell at the siege of Farnham Castle, in his thirtieth year, in 1643 ; William Cleave, Esq. founder of the alms-house in this town; and Dr. George Bate, who died in 1668, aged sixty *. In the church-yard is buried Dr. William Battie f , formerly a physician • Dr Bate was born at Maid's Morton, in Buckinghamshire, bred at Ox- ford, and practised there some years, chiefly among the Puritans. He at- taitied such eminence, that when Charles I. kept his court at Oxford he was his principal physician. When the king's affairs declined, he went to Lon- don, where he accommodated himself so well to the times as to obtain tha same appointment from Oliver Cromwell. He seems to have adopted the principle so successfully pursued by the celebrated vicar of Bray ; for, on the Kestoraiion he insinuated himself into the good graces of the royal party, was made principal physician to the king, and admitted a Fellow of the Royal Society. This is said by Wood to have been owing to a report raised by his friends, that he gave the Protector a dose which hastened his death. He was the author of some political as well as medical publications. t Dr. Bailie was a native of Devonshire, educated at Eton and King's Col- lege, Cambridge, and died in 1776. On leaving the University he settled as a physician at Uxbridge, where he became eminent, particularl3' in cases of insanity, on which disease he published a treatise in 17.57, and was in con- sequence engaged in a controversy with Dr. Monro. In 1749, he took an active 190 SURREY. a physician in London, but without any monument or inscription, according- to his own orders. On the side of Comb Hill, where it declines towards Kings- ton, is a Conduit, the work of Cardinal Wolsey, from which Hampton Ctfurt Palace is supplied with water by means of leaden pipes carried under the river Thames. Dr. Hales observed that this water left no incrustation on a boiler in the coffee-house, which had been in use fourteen years; and that it is softer than either the Thames water, or that of the river which crosses Houns- low Heath to Hampton Court *. Kew House, near the Thames, in the parish of the same name, belonged, about the middle of the 17th century, to Richard Ben- nett, Esq. from whom it descended in marriage with his daugh- ter to the Capel family. About 1730 Frederic, Prince of Wales, admiring the situation, obtained a long lease of this house, and began to lay out the gardens, which were finished by the Princess Dowager, who made this place her residence. After her death it became a favourite retreat of his present majesty, who pur- chased the freehold. The house, which was so small that it could be used only as an occasional retirement, was in part taken down about 1802, and the pictures were removed to an old mansion opposite to the palace, belonging to the queen. About the same time a new edifice was begun within Richmond Gardens, a little to the west of Kew Green. This structure, which is of the castellated form, and in its general architecture an imitation of the style of the middle of the IGth century, is from the designs of James Wyatt, Esq. and as yet unfinished. The pleasure-grounds contain 120 acres; and, notwithstanding the disadvantages of a flat surface, are laid out with much taste, and exhibit a considerable variety of scenery. They are em- bellished active part in the dispute between the College of Phvsicians, and Dr. Schom- berg, for which he was attacked in a poem intituled ihe Buttiad. He distin- guished himself as a scholar, by an edition of Isocrates, 1729 and 1749, and a physician by his Aphorisms. • Hale's Statical Essays, II. 240, 241. SURUEY. 191 bdlished with many picturesque objects, designed by Sir William Chambers; the most striking of which is the Pagoda, in imitation of a Chinese building, 49 feet in diameter at the base, and 163 feet high. The botanic garden was established in 1760, by the Princess Dowager for the cultivation of exotics, on which his Majesty has bestowed such attention, that it now exhibits a collection of plants not to be matched perhaps in the world. Persons have been em- ployed from time to time to procure new and rare plants in dis- tant quarters of the globe, and this garden is constantly receiving accessions from all parts of the world by the contributions of zea- lous promoters of the science of botany. Ham House, in the parish of Petersham, was first erected by Sir Thomas Vavasor; and came, in 1651, into the possession of Sir Lionel Tollemache, in whose descendants, the Earls ©f Dysart, it is still vested. After the death of Sir Lionel, the house underwent great alterations, and many additions were made to it by his widow, on whom the peerage was first conferred ; but it is said to have been furnished at a very great expense, in the taste of that time by Charles II. Here, as it is reported, the Cabal held their meetings, after this mansion came into the hands of the Earl, afterwards Duke, of Lauderdale, by his mar- riage with the Countess in 1671 *. It is s^id to have been ori- ginally ^* A correspondence had previously subsisted for many 3'ears between the duke and this lady, who had notoriously influenced his political conduct on many occasions. According to Burnet, " this correspondence was of an early date, and had given occasion to censure. For when he was a piisoner, alter the battle of Worcester in l^ol, she niude him believe ho was in great dan- ger of his life, and that siie saved it by her intrigues with Cromwell. Upon the king's' restoration she thought that the eavl did not make the return which they expected ; and they lived for some years at a distance. But after her husband's death she made up all quarrels ; and they lived so much together that the earl's lady was otTtnded at it, and went to Paris, where she died about three years after. The Lady Dysart at length got such an ascendency over him, that it lessened hira much in the esteem of all the woild j for he delivered 192 SURREY. ginally designed for Henry Prince of Wales, son of James I. and is a curious specimen of tlie mansions of that age. The ceil- ings are painted by Verrio, and the apartments ornamented with that massy magnificence which was then in fashion. The fur- niture is very rich, the very bellows and brushes in some of the rooms being of solid silver, or of silver fillagree. In the centre of the house is a large hall, surrouiuled with an open gallery. The ballustrades of the grand staircase, which is re- markably spacious and substantial, are of walnut-tree, and orna- mented with military trophies. In the north drawing-room is a very large and beautiful cabinet of ivory, lined with cedar. On the west side of the house is a gallery, ninety-two feet in length, hung with portraits. In the closet adjoining the bed-chamber, which was the Duchess of Lauderdale^s, still remains the great chair in which she used to sit and read ; it has a small desk fixed to it, and her cane hangs by the side. This mansion contains many fine pictures by the old masters, among which the works of Vandeveldt and Wouverraans are con- spicuous. Among the portraits are those of the Duke of 'duder- delivered himself up to all her humonrs and passions. All applications were made to her. She took upon her to determine every thing. She sold all places, and was wanting in no methods that could bring her money, which she lavished with a most profuse vanity," (T. 245.) Again, speaking of them both, he says : " Not content with the great appointments they had, she set herself by all possible methods to raise money. They lived at a vast expense, and every thing was set to sale. She carried all things with an haughtiness that could not have been easily borne from a queen j and talked of all pet)ple with such ungoverned freedou), that she grew at length to be universally hated." (I. 339.) She was, in short, according to this author, " a woman of great beauty, but of far greater parts. She had a wonderful quickness of ap- prehension, and an amazing vivacity in conversation. She had studied not only divinity and history, but mathematics and philosophy. She was violent in every thing she set about ; a violent friend ; but a much more violent enemy. She had a restless ambition, lived at a vast expense, was ravenously covetous, and would have stuck at nothing by which she might compass her ends.'* (1. 245.) This lady survived the duke many years, and died in 1898.1 SURREY. 19S dale and the Earl of Hamilton, in one picture, by Cornelius Janssen ; the Duke and Duchess, by Sir Peter Lely ; the Duke in his Garter robes by the same ; Charles II. who was a visitor of this place ; Sir John Maitland, Chancellor of Scotland ; Sir Henry Vane; William Murray, the first Earl of Dysarl; Catherine, his wife, a beautiful picture in water-colours, by Hoskins; Sir Lionel Tollemache, first husband to the Duchess of Lauderdale ; James Stewart, Duke of Richmond, a very fine picture by Van- flyke j the late Countess of Dysart, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, and many others deserving notice *. This house was the birth-place of that great statesman and general John, Duke of Argyle, who was grandson to the Duchess of Lauderdale. His brother Archibald, who succeeded him in his title, and was Lord Keeper of Scotland, was also born here. Hume says, that on the arrival of the Prince of Orange in Lon- don, James II. was ordered to retire to this house, but thinking himself unsafe so near the metropolis, he fled privately to France. Petersham Lodge was purchased by King Charles I. of Gregory Cole, Esq. In 1685, James II. granted the lease of this mansion to Edward Viscount Cornbury, son of the Earl of Clarendon, and grandson of the Chancellor. It afterwards became the property, or was at least in the occupation, of Henry, Earl of Rochester, his cousin german; and on the first of October, 1721, was suddenly consumed by fire, together with all the rich furniture, an excellent collection of pictures, and the valuable library of his great uncle, the Chancellor. 'I'he offices having escaped the flames, the Earl of Harrington, before his elevation to that title, built another house on the site of the former, after a design of the Earl of Bur- lington. In 1779, it was sold to Thomas Pitt, Esq. created Baron Camelford in 1784, in which year also he purchased the fee simple of the Crown. In 1790, it was bought of Lord Camel- ford, by his Royal Highness the Duke of Clarence, who made it his summer residence for some years, and then disposed of it to Sir William Manners, Bart, the present proprietor. The pleasure- Vol. XIV. 0 l^nounds • Manning and Bray's Surref , I. 367, 8. r 194 SURREY. grounds are spacious and beautiful, having been enlarged by tlit addition of a small part of Richmond Park, given by his majesty to the Duke of Clarence. Richmond. Shene, the ancient name of this place, was probably de- rived from the Saxon word Seyne, or Sciene, yet not on account of the splendor reflected upon it by the neighbourhood of a palace, as some have supposed, for it was so named long before our princes appear to have resided here ; but rather from its con- spicuous situation, standing as it does on a considerable eminence on the east bank of the Thames, about four miles to the north of Kingston. This manor, being parcel of the Royal demesne of Kingston, was given by Henry I. to the family of Belet, who severally held it by the serjeanty of chief butler, or cup-bearer to the king. It afterwards went by marriage to the family of Valletort ; but ever since the end of the reign of Edward I. we find it in the pos- session of our kings, who thenceforth made it the place of their occasional retirement. How far it was at this early period adapted to the reception of a princess household, or the purposes of a Royal residence, we are no where informed. That a palace should have been erected here, of which no traces are to be found in our records, is, as Manning observes, highly improbable. " I am inclined therefore to believe,^^ he adds, " that during the reigns of Edward I. and his three immediate successors there was no place of residence here that could properly be called a royal palace, and the rather as very few of the public instruments of those reigns are dated from this place ; and moreover, as of more than thirty children born to the three Edwards not one was born here. I am aware indeed that King Edward III. is said to have built a palace on this his manor; but on what authority I know not. The circumstance of his naming it Shene from the splendor ef tlie fabric is certainly a mistake, for it was known by that name SURREY. 195 name even as long ago as whe n King Henry I. gave the manor to the family of Belet. He might possibly improve tlie mansion he found here by some additional buildings; but this I am in- clined to think is all he did. Nor do I find that after his decease, which happened at this place, June 21, 1377, his successor Richard II. did more. Nay, the circumstance related of his grief, on the death of his beloved queen, which happened also here June 7, 1394, viz, that ' he cursed the place on that account, and so hated it ever after, that he would never come there, but commanded the buildings to be demolished/ * make it more than probable that they were of no great magnificence/' f During the reign of Henry IV. the mansion lay in the ruined state in which his pre- decessor had left it; but it was rebuilt by Henry V. and as we collect from one of his biographers in such a manner as to render it " a delightful mansion, of curious and costly workmanship, and befitting the character and condilion of a king.'' X. Edward IV. in his sixth year, assigned this palace to his queen for life; and, in 1485, on the death of his princess, her son-in-law. King Henry VII. took possession of it, and frequently made it his re- sidence. In 1492, he hfjld a grand tournament here, when Sir James Parker, in a quarrel with Hugh Vaughan for a right of court armour, was killed in the first course. On the 21st of De- cember 1498, while the king was here, this splendid structure was entirely consumed by fire, with all the apparel, plate, and jewels, that it contained. Henry, who was much attached to the situation, rebuilt the palace in loOl, in a style of much Go- thic magnificence and elegance; and on this occasion it was that he changed the name of the place, hitherto called Shene, to that of Richmond, after liis own title, previously to his accession to the throne. The picture of Henry V. and family, in the Earl of Or- ford's collection at Strawberry Hill, was an altar-piece for the chapel here; and his own marriage and the picture of Henry O 2 VIII. * Ilolliiished. Kennett's Hist, of Engl. 1. 271. f Manning and Bray's Surrey, T. 409, 410. + Elraham Vit. Hen. V. c. 13. 196 iSURREY. VIII. in the same collection,, are supposed to have been painted for this monarch, and intended for this palace. The building had not long been finished, when, in 1506, a second fire broke out, and did considerable damage ; and the same year a new gallery, in which the king and the prince, his son, had been walking a few minutes before, fell down. It was also in 1506, that Philip I. of Spain, being driven by a storm upon the English coast, was entertained at Richmond with great magnificence ; and here, ia 1509, Henry VII. breathed his last. At this palace his succes- sor kept the following Christmas, and held a tournament; his son of his own name was born and died here, and at this place Charles V. was lodged in 1523. In 1541, the palace and manor were granted among other estates by Henry VIII. to his divorced Queen Ann of Cleves, by whom in 2 Edward VI. they are said to have been surrendered to that prince. Some few of the public instruments of Mary and Elizabeth are dated from Richmond. With the latter, although once imprisoned at this place by her sister, it was a favourite residence, and here she expired, March 24, 1603. In the autumn of the same year, and again in 1625, the Courts of Justice were removed hither on account of the plague. In 1610, this manor, together with the palace and park, then called the New Park, were granted by James I. to Henry, Prince of Wales, and after the death of that hopeful prince to his next son Charles, who, after his accession to the throne, formed here a large collection of pictures. He afterwards settled it on his Queen Henrietta Maria, as a part of her jointure; but, in 1650, this palace w^as sold by the commissioners of the House of Com- mons. It was afterwards purchased by Sir Gregory Norton, Bart, the materials being valued at 10,7821. 19s. 2d.; but, by a resolution of the same House in 1660, it was restored to the Queen Dowager. This princess, who had retired to her native country, now returned and resided till 1665, at this place, though it appears that she almost immediately resigned her interest in it to Sir Edward Villiers, father of the first Earl of Jersey, by whom it was afterwards released to King James II. Here the young SURREY. 197 young Pretender is said to have been nursed, and the initials of his name, with the date of the year 1688, are still to be seen on some leaden pipes. At length, in 1770, this manor, together with the office of steward and keeper of the courts of the same, excepting the site of the old palace of Richmond and Richmond Park, wan granted to the present queen for life. In a survey of Richmond Palace, by an order of the House of Commons, in 1649 *, a very minute description is given of it as it then existed. Among other particulars mention is made of a hall one hundred feet long, and forty wide, a chapel ninety-six feet long, and forty wide, with stalls as in a cathedral ; an open gallery adjoining to the privy-garden two hundred feet long, hav- ing a close one of the same length over it. A French writer f mentions also a library that was established here by King Henry VII. and in an household establishment of Queen Mary still pre- served in Dulwich College, the librarian is reckoned among the officers of this palace with a fee of ten pounds a year ; but of this no notice is taken in the Survey. By the time that it was restored to its former possessors this structure was probably in a very ruinous condition. Fuller in- deed speaks of it as absolutely pulled down ; % but this could not be the case, if, as we are informed, it was for some time occu* pied by King James II. Upon the whole, however, it is natural to suppose that the sale of the materials would soon be followed by the demolition of the building, which was accordingly, by de- grees, taken down, till the whole was reduced to those few re- mains of the offices which still exist. The site of this once splendid palace is now occupied by houses erected on such parts 0 3 of • The original of this Survey is deposited in the Augmentation Office, and printed in the second volume of the Monumenta vctusta of the Society of An- tiquaries, with two views, PJ. XXIIT. and XXIV. t Mous. L. J. Chalonais, a Carmelite, in his Traicte des plus belles Bihl't^- tkequeu, published in 1644. See Aubrey's Surrey, Vol. V. p. 341. t W»rtAie$, Part III. p. 78. 198 SURREY. of it as have been granted to different persons on lease from the Crown. Among these are the residences of Whitshed Keene, Esq. and of the late Duke of Queensbury, and that occupied by Major Smith. The latttr is called in the lease the Trumpeting House, from the figures of two boys in an ancient porch in the front, in servitors' dresses blowing trumpets. Two houses held by Mrs. Fullarton, and David Dundas, Esq. adjoining to the gateway, formed part of the old palace, and are described in the Survey of 1649, as the " Wardrobe buildings and other offices of two stories high with garrets, lying round a spacious court, having a fair pair of strong gates, arched and battled with stone over head, and leading into the said court from the Green lying before Rich- mond House.*' In Mrs. Fullarton's garden is still remaining an old yew-tree mentioned in the Survey, and there valued at ten pounds, which is upwards of ten feet in circumference. The original Park at Richmond, of which we find the first mention in a survey of the manor, taken 21 Edward I. appears to have been situated on the north-west of the present village, between the royal gardens and the river. In the grants of Henry VIII. and James L mention is made of the new park, which was probably some addition made either by Henry V. when he built the palace, or by Henry VII. when he rebuilt it. In the time of Henry VIII. these parks were also distinguished by the names of the great and little parks, the former being that which ■was sometimes occupied by Wolsey, who, after he had presented the king with his new palace of Hampton Court, was permitted to use the manor of Richmond, where he afterwards occasionally re- sided. Stow, speaking of his residence here in 1530, informs us that " he was lodged within the Lodge of the Great Park, which was a very pretty housCj, where my lord lay attended with a pretty number of servants,'' These two parks were strparate in the reign of James I. but were probably laid together not long afterwards, one only bping noticed in the Survey of 1649, which adjoined SURREY. 199 adjoined to tlic Gre en, and is said to liave contained 349 acres. This is tliat whicli, together with the manor was settled on the queen, in 1627. In 1707, Queen Anne demised ihe Lodge for 99 years, to James, Duke of Onnond, who rehuilt the house, and resided there till his attainder in 1715. His brother, tiie Earl of Arran, having been enabled by Act of Parliament to purchase his estates, sold this mansion to George II. then Prince of Wales, who frequently retired hither, even after his accession to the Crown. Caroline, his queen, was very partial to this place, where she had a dairy and menagerie. In the gardens were several ornamental buildings, in one of which, called Merlin^s Cave, were various figures of wax, and in another, denominated the Hermi- tage, the busts of Newton, Locke, and other literary characters. His present Majesty also frequently resided at this place in th* beginning of his reign ; and, as we have seen, settled it on her Majesty for life. The Lodge was taken down about forty years ago, when it was intended to erect a palace on its site, the foun- dations being laid, and the arches turned for the purpose. Near this spot stands the Observatory, erected in 1768, and 9, by Sir William Chambers, under the direction of the late Dr. Demainbray for the astronomical part. Here is a mural arch of 140 degrees, and eight feet radius; a zenith sector of eight feet; a transit instrument of eight feet, and a ten feet reflector by Herschel. On the top of the building is a moveable dome, which contains an equatorial instrument. Here is also a collection of subjects in natural history, an excellent apparatus for philosophical experi- ments, some models, and a collection of ores from the mines in his Majesty's Hanoverian dominions. The present astronomer is the Rev. Stephen Demainbray. About the year ISOO, the king began to build a house on an- other spot, which is not yet finished. The lane which separated the grounds of Richmond from those of Kew has been stopped up^ and the whole of them are now laid together. On this occasion \\\& Majesty gave up to the parish all his right in the common O 4 called too SITRREY. Called Pest-house Common, and at his own expense huilt a work- house for the poor. A part of this old park is now a dairy and grazing farm, in his Majesty^s own hands. The remainder constitutes the royal gar- den, which was first laid out by Bridgmau in avenues, and after- wards altered to its present improved state by Brown. About a quarter of a mile to the north-west of the old palace stood the ham- let of West Shene, consisting of efghteen houses, which were all taken down in 1769 ; and the site, being converted into a lawn, was added to the king's inclosures. The New, or Great Park, was made by Charles f. who being addicted to the chace, was desirous of having an extensive in- closure for red, as well as fallow-deer, at this place, where he had large tracts of waste land and woods belonging to his manor, that were well adapted for the purpose ; but as this could not be done without the consent of those parishes which had a right of common on the wastes, and such gentlemen and others as had estates intermingled with them, he purchased their rights to 265 acres belonging to the manor of Petersham, and 483 acres in that of Ham, for 4,0001. Exclusively of these the park consists of 650 acres in Mortlake, 230 in Putney, about 100 in Richmond, and as many more in Kingston as make 2253 in the whole, it is enclosed with a brick wall eight miles in circuit. The rangership of this park was given by George II. to Ro- bert, son of Sir Robert Walpole. That statesman himself spent much of his leisure time in this retirement, where he is said to have expended 14,0001. in the repairs of the Great Lodge, and other improvements. The office was afterwards conferred on the princess Amelia : and whilst she held it complaints were, in 1752, set on foot by the inhabitants of this and the neighbouring parishes against the deputy-ranger and other keepers of the park and gates, for obstructing the foot-paths through it. After va- rious trials and different verdicts in the three following years, a decision was at length given in their favour at Kingston Assizes, in SURREY. in April, 1758, when their right was established. In 1761, the princess having surrendered her interest in this office, it was be- stowed on the Earl of Bute; and since his death, in 1792", it has remained in the hands of the king. Besides the Great Lodge already mentioned, sometimes called the Old Lodge, there is to the north of it, and nearer to Roe- hampton-gate, the New Lodge ; on the other side of the park, near Kingston-gate, Birch's, or the Thatched Lodge, lately inhabited by Sir Charles Stuart, K. B, ; and more to the north- ward, between that and Richmond- hi 11 gate. Hill Lodge, in ths occupation of tlie Countess of Pembroke. The New, or Stone Lodge, was built by George I. from a design by the Earl of Pem- broke, as a place of refreshment after the fatigues of the chace. His present Majesty, after fitting it up in 1802, gave it for life, with sixty acres of land round it, to Viscount Sidmouth, who was then prime minister. In 1414 King Henry V. founded at this place a house for the maintenance and support of forty monks of the Carthusian order, whom he incorporated by the name of the House of Jesus of Bethlehem at Shene. The foundation charter describes it as built on the north side of his manor-house or palace there, being 3125 feet in length, and 1305 in breadth : and Willis and Au- brey inform us, from a manuscript copy of Florence of Worcester, tliough the account there given is not very clear, that the length of the hall was forty-four paces, the breadth 24 ; the great quad- rangle 120 paces long, and 100 broad ; the cloisters, a square 200 paces long, and nine feet in height. The munificence of the founder in the endowment of this institution kept pace with the grandeur of the edifice ; but, besides the estates possessed by this house, the privileges enjoyed by the monks established in it were uncommonly great and extensive, amounting to an exemp- tion from every burden and service incident to a subject of the realm, both personal and pecuniary ; and that not only for them- selves, but also for their tenants. This monastery was one of those which voluntarily surrendered their estates to the Crown in 9 1539, 202 SURREY. 1539, when its annual revenues amounted to 9621. ns.6d. Its site was granted the following year to the Earl of Hertford, afterwards Duke of Somerset ; and on the attainder of that noble- man to Henry Grey, Duke of Suffolk : but in 1557 Queen Mary re- sumed this grant, and reinstated the Carthusian monks. This new foundation was of short continuance; for in the beginning of 1559, soon after the accession of Elizabeth, it was finally suppressed. In 1650, the site of this house was sold as crown land, and purchased by Alexander Easton. On this occasion a survey was taken by order of Parliament, in which the buildings, according to the state of them at that time, are minutely described. The priory church is mentioned as standing, though very ruinous ; the prior's lodg- ings of brick-work ; the refectory, a stone building ; the Her- mitage, or Anchorite's Cell, which was founded in 1416, and en- dowed with revenues, issuing out of the manors of Lewisham and Greenwich. This estate was resumed by the Crown on the restoration of Charles II. since which time it has been lett on lease to various persons. An ancient gate-way, the last remains of this priory, was taken down in 1769, when the little that was left of the hamlet of West Shene was annihilated. About 1499 a convent was built here near the royal palace for Observant Friars, by King Henry VII. It was suppressed, with others of the same order, in 1534. In the Survey of 1649, a building is described as adjoining to the palace, and " called the Friers, containing three rooms below stayrs, and four hand- some ones above stayrs," and then used as a chandler's shop. Ti»e lane which leads from the Green to the Duke of Queens- berry's is called Friars Lane, in which two tenements mark the site of this establishment. The Church, or rather chapel, of Richmond, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, consists of a nave, two ailes, and a chancel, built of brick. At the west end is a low embattled tower of white stone and Hints in chequers, containing eight bells. The interior is very neat; and contains, among many other monuments, those of Henry Lord Viscount Brouncker, cofferer to Charles u. SURREY, 203 II. who died in 1688 ; Mrs. Mary Ann Yates; the celebrated actress, who died in 1787; Robert Lewis, Esq a Cambro-Bri- ton, and barrister at law, " so great a lover of peace/' says liis Latin epitaph, that when a contention began between life and death, he immediately gave up the ghost to end the dispute;" Admiral Holbourne ; and James Thomson, the celebrated author of the Seasons, who died in 1748. There was nothing to mark tlie spot of his interment, till a brass tablet, with a suitable in- scription, was put up in 1792, by the Earl of Buchan. The house in which the poet resided at Richmond was puVchased after his death by George Ross, Esq. who, out of veneration for his memory, forbore to pull it down, but enlarged and improved it at the expense of 90001. It was afterwards the property and residence of the late Hon. Mrs. Boscawen, who repaired Thom- son's favorite seat in the garden, which she adorned with suitable inscriptions, and placed in it the table on which he wrote his verses. This house is now the property and residence of the Hon. Cropley Ashley Cooper, brother of the Earl of Shaftesbury. The church-yard contains the remains of Jacques Mallet Du Pan, a native of Switzerland, well known as a political writer, and author of the ^' Mereure Britannique ; the Rev. Gilbert Waketield, eminent for his classical attainments ; and Dr. John Moore, father of the brave and lamented general Sir John Moore, whose observations on society and manners made during his tours on the continent, besides novels and other productions, claim for him the character of one of the most entertaining writers of the age. In 1719, Penkethman, of facetious memory, opened a new theatre at Richmond. This was probably the same as that which stood on the declivity of the hill, and was opened in 1756 by Theophilus Gibber, who, to avoid the penalties of the act against unlicensed comedians, advcrtis;'d it as a Cephalic snufF warehouse. A few years afterwards a theatre was erected at the north-west corner of the green. This is licensed, and opened regularly in the summer season three, and sometimes four, times in 204 SiDRREY. in the wceti, and is generally supplied with performers from the London tlieatres. At this place there is a Bridge of five stone arches over the Thames, which is here about 300 feet wide. It was finished in 1777, at an expense of 26,0001. The beauties of Richmond Hill, with its varied and extensive prospect, have so often been celebrated both in verse and prose, that it would be superfluous to dwell on them here. Owing to its local advantages, no village in the kingdom contains so many elegant mansions as Richmond. Among these the following may be enumerated as most worthy of notice. The late Duke of Queensberry's was built by George, the third Earl Cholmondeley, who obtained a lease of part of the old palace in 1708. The noble gallery in this house was ornamented with his fine collection of pictures. It was purchased, in 1 780, by the late proprietor, who removed hither the furniture and paintings from his seat at Amesbury. The tapestry which hun^ behind the Earl of Clarendon, in the Court of Chancery, now decorates the hall of this mansion. Earl Fitzwilliam's house on the Green was the property of his lordship's maternal grandfatlier, Sir Matthew Decker, Bart, an eminent Dutch merchant, who here built a room for the recep- tion of George II. whom he entertained, with his queen, on the day of his proclamation. It contains two curious paintings of Richmond Palace; and some good pictures of the Flemish ediool. At the foot of the hill, on the banks of the Thames, is the villa which the late Duke of Buccleugh inherited from the Duke of Montague. From the lawn there is a subterraneous communi- cation with the gardens and shrubberies on the opposite side of the road, which are laid out with great taste, and extend almost to the summit of the hill. Spring prove, the residence of Sir Charles Price, Bart, was built in tiie early part of the last century by the Marquis of Lothian. The present proprietor has made considerable addi- tions SURRKY,. tions to this estate, by the purchase of lands lately belonging to Lord Pal mors ton. Sir Robert Dudley, styled abroad Earl of Warwick and puke of Nortiiumberland, was born at Shene at 1673. He was the son of Queen Elizabeth's favorite, the Earl of Leicester, by Lady Douglas Sheffield ; and after his birth was carefully con- cealed to prevent the queen from knowing of the earl's engage- ments with his mother. Though Leicester always denied hig legitimacy, yet at his death he left him the bulk of his estate. 3eing of an enterprising disposition, he fitted out a small squa- dron at his own expense, with which he sailed on a successful cruize against the Spaniards in South America. In 1595 he accompanied the expedition against Cadiz, where, for his gal-i Jantry, he received the honour of knighthood. He now endea- voured to prove his legitimacy j but being overpowered by the interest of the Countess Dowager of Leicester, he went abroad and obtained the patronage of the house of Medici. Regardless of tiie king's command to return, he continued at the court of Florence, and his estates were seized by James I. ; but his ser- vices to the Grand Duke of Tuscany soon gained him a high reputation and ample indemnity for his loss. He contrived se- veral methods of improving shipping ; introduced new manu- factures ; drained a vast tract of morass between Pisa and the sea; and projected tlie free port of Leghorn. He was also a patron of learned men, and himself held a high rank in the re- public of letters. In his principal work, intituled Del Arcano del Mare, in two volumes folio, which is full of charts and plans, lie suggests a great variety of projects relative to maritime affairs, which display extensive knowledge and great fertility of invention. Anthony Wood, after enumerating his manifold accomplishments, says, that he was the first who taught dogs to set in order to catch partridges. He was created a duke by the emperor of Germany; ^d died iu 1649 at his castle of Carbello, near Flo- rence. In 206 SURREY. In the parish of Thames Ditton is Ember Court, long the residence of the Right Hon. Arthur Onslow, Speaker of the House of Commons, and his son, now Earl Onslow. It is a commodious brick dwelling ; but the front has been covered with stucco to give it the appearance of stone ; and the park has of late years received considerable additions and improvements. After it passed out of the hands of the Onslow family. Ember Court was inhabited by Sir Francis Ford, Bart, and is now the residence of Colonel Taylor. The Hundred of Emley Bridge. This hundred undoubtedly received its name from the river Mole, formerly called the Emley, by w^hich it is traversed. On the north it is divided from Middlesex by the Thames ; on the east it is bounded by Kingston and Croydon hundreds; on the south by Copthorn and Effingham ; and on the west by Chertsey. It lies in the deanery of Ewell, and embraces the parishes of Cobham, Esher, East and West Molesey, ♦ Stoke D'Abernon, Walton-upon-Thames, and Weybridge. In 7 Henry III. Ralph de Immeworth was possessed of this hundred. It was afterwards vested in the family of Braose; but, in 1481, was granted, with its jurisdiction and privileges, by Ed- ward IV. to the corporation of Kingston, to which it was con- firmed by the charter of Charles I. in 1638. In this hundred there is no market-town. Cobham Park, on the south side of the parish of CoBHAM, was formerly called Downe Place, from a family of that name who had a mansion here. In the first half of the last century it became the property of John Bridges, Esq. who erected a new house, which he sold, about 1750, to Sir John, afterwards Earl Ligonier. On the death of his nephew this place was purchased of his coheirs by the Earl of Carhampton, who, in 1807, bought Pains Hill, and sold Cobham Park to Harvey Christian Combe, Esq. who now resides here. In SURREY. In the parish of Eshf.r is Clarcmount, the seat ami park of Charles Rose Ellis, Esq. Here Sir John Vanbrugh, so well known for the heaviness of his style of architecture, erected a house for his own habitation. The spot which he chose was Iony ground, without the advantage of prospect. Of Sir John it was purchased by Thomas Holies Pelham, Earl of Clare, and after- wards Duke of Newcastle, who made it his residence, and added a magnificent room for the entertainment of large companies whilst he was in administration. He enlarged the grounds by farther purchases, and by enclosing parts of the adjoining heath, so that they now contain 420 acres. The duke adorned the park with many plantations, under the direction of Kent. " At Esher,'' observes Mr. Horace Walpole, " the prospects more than aided the painter's genius ; they marked out the points wliere his art was necessary or not, but thence left his judgment in full posses- sion of all its glory.'' On a mount in th park, the duke erected a building in the form of a castle, and called it after his own name, Clare Mount, by which appellation it has ever since been known. After the duke's death it was purchased by Lord Clive, the con- queror o^ India. When setting out on his last voyage, he gave directions to Browne, so well knov/n for his taste in laying out grounds, but who piqued himself still more on his skill in archi- tecture, to build him a house, without any limitation in regard to expense. He performed the task to the satisfaction of his employer, at a charge which is said to have ex-ceeded 100,0001. Browne had been often employed to alter houses, bul this is con- sidered the only complete mansion that he ever built. It forms an oblong square of forty -four yards by thirty-four. On the ground floor arc eight spacious rooms, besides the hall of en- trance, and tlie great staircase. In the principal front a flight of thirteen steps leads to the great entrance, under a pediment supported by Corinthian columns. The situation is v/ell chosen, commanding various views of the water and plantations in the park. After liord Clive's death in 1774, this estate was sold for not more than one-third of what, the house and alterations had cost. 208 SURREY. cost. It was purchased by Viscount Galway, who again dis- posed of it to the Earl of Tyrconnel ; and by the latter it was sold to Charles Rose Ellis, Esq. the present owner. In this parish there was formerly a manor belonging to the Bishops of Winchester. It was originally given by the Conqueror to the abbey of St. Leofrid^ to find two priests to say mass here for the souls of his predecessors ; and it was afterwards sold by the abbot to the Bisljops of Winchester, who withdrew the chantry. Here those prelates had a park, in which William Wainflete, when bishop, between 1447 and 1486, built a stately brick house on the bank of the Mole, His arms, with those of his see, carved in stone, were placed over the gate-house, and in several other parts of the building. On the timber-work in the hall, not unlike that of Westminster-hall, were several angels carved, supporting escutcheons, in two of which were scrolls, with Tibi Christe; and in the windows frequently Sit Deo Gratia.* Here the bishops occasionally resided. Wolsey, when appointed to the .see of Winchester in 1528, ordered the house here to be re- paired, and some parts of it rebuilt, proposing to make it his retreat when the king resided at Hampton Court. Hither he first retired after his disgrace, and continued for several weeks at this mansion, till he obtained permission to remove to Richmond. In 1538, this manor was purchased of Gardiner, bishop of Win- chester, by Henry VIII. Avho made it part of the manor and chace of Hampton Court. In a survey of it, taken in the begin- ning of the next reign, it is said that here was a mansion-house sumptuously built; and adjoining to it a park, called Esher park, about three miles in circumference, stocked with deer. On the accession of Queen Mary, Gardiner prevailed on her to restore this estate to his see, of which it was once more purchased by Queen Elizabeth, who, in her twenty-fifth year, 1583, gave it to Charles liOrd Howard of Effingham. This house and park were sold separately from the manor by one of the subsequent proprietors. AVhen this mansion was pulled down is not known. lu _ " ^ Anbrey, III. 120. SURREY. 209 In 1729, wlieh it was purchased by Thomas Pelham, Esq. bro- ther to the Duke of Newcastle, nothing was standing but the gate-house, to which he made additions in the same style. Itt 1804 it became the property of Lord Sondes, eldest son of his daughter Grace, who next year sold the estate in parcels. Th$ house and park, containing about 150 acres, were .Jt>oiight by John Spicer, Esq. The former stood in a flat situation near the Mole. The additions made by Mr. Pelham were pulled down by Mr. Spicer; but he has left the original gat;e-houso standing, and erected a new mansion on elevated ground, which commands a view of the park and of the surrounding country. In what is now called Sandon farm in this parish, adjoining to the common, known by the general name of Ditton^arsh, was once an Hospital or Priory, founded by Robert de Watevile in the beginning of the reign of Henry II. Its possessions were considerably augmented in the time of Henry III. by William de Perci, who gave land and rents for the maintenance of six chaplains. From Bishop Edindon's Register, as quoted by Lowth in his life of William of Wykham, it appears, that in the beginning of 1349, the master and all the brethren of this hospital died of the great plague which then raged in England, and swept away half of the people, and nine-tenths of the clergy. Not- withstanding the benefactions conferred on this institution, it gradually became so reduced, that in H36 leave was given to the Bishop of Winchester to unite it with the hospital of St. Thomas, Southwark. The manor-house of Stoke D'Abernon has been, from a pe- riod very little, if at all, subsequent to the Conquest, the habita- tion *of the lords of the manor, and for about two centuries the residence of the Vincents. The first propi;jetor of that family was created a baronet in 1620 • and from him the title and estate ^ere transmitted to the late Sir Francis, who died in 1809, leav- ing two sons both very young. The house has lately been mo- dernized and much improved. Vol. XIV. P On 210 SURREY. On Sfoke Common, in the same parish, about tirree miles west of Epsom, is Jessop's Well, celebrated for a mineral water o§ the same nature witli that of Clieltenhara. Its superior strength appears from its crystals retaining their figure and firmness for a year and a half after they have been formed ; and it is generally observed to have an exhilarating effect, probably owing to the steel which it contains. Dr. Adee, an eminent physician of Guildford, in the early part of last century, asserted, that by a steady and cautious use of this water, some of his patients had^ been cured even of obstinate scurvies. Walton on Thames derives its name from the Roman works which are in this parish. On St. George's Hill is a *camp called Ccesar's Camp, a single work, -with a trench runfiimg down to Oatlands. The area is oblong, comprehending thirteen acres three roods. In the opinion of the historian of Surrey, this wa« but an out-post to the greater camp at Oatlands, where he was informed that it might be plainly traced before the Earl of Lin- coln, in the time of George II. levelled the ground and took in the present park. The flat of the common, before the late inclo- sure, between the camp and Oatlands* Park, was called Camp Close. A great bank ^tnd ditch ran from the camp down^o Oat- lands. In this parish Caesar is supposed to have passed the Thames in pursuit of Cassibelanus at Coway Stakes, so called from the tradition that the Britons placed sharp stakes in the river to obstruct the passage of the enemy, which Bede speaks of as re- maining in his time. Geoffrey of Monmouth also makes mention of them.* All that can be gathered from Csesar hira&elf on this head ^ * Tlie words oi" thesewicicnt writers woiulci fully coincide with information jecently obtained oil the spot. Tlie former sa^'s : " Indc ad fltimeii Tamesim^ ^ profect us est, quern uno tantura loco vadis transmeabilciu fernnt. Inhuj^j|||u uiteriore ripa, Cassibelano duce immensa hostium multitiido conscderat^||-<, pamque fluminis ac pocne totura sub aqii^ vadum acutisbimis sudibus prae- ktrinxcrnt» 00 0 SURREY* 211 head is, that he led his army by the most direct way to the ter- ritories of Cassibelan, which lay upon the Thames, and were di- ^ vided by that river from th.e maritime states at about eighty mile^ distance from the sea, and that the river was fordable only in thai one pla^ where he passed it. ^ The statements of ancient writers seem lo* be fully confirmefl by undeniable modern testimony. In 1807, Mr. Bray was in- formed by a fisherman, who has lived here and known the river all his life, that at this place he has weighed up several stakes of the size of his thigh, about six feet .ft n*; shod with iron, the wood very black, and so hard as to tum an axe. The boats sometimes run against them. The late Earl of Sandwich used to come to Shepperton to fish, and gave him half a guinea a piece for some of these stakes. There are none in any other part of the river that he ever heard of. One still remains which they have not been able to weigh ; it is visible when tiie water is clear, and his net has been caugiit and torn by it. His tradition is, that they formed part of a bridge built by Julius Caesar, and he describes tkem to have stood about four feet apart, in two rows, running across the river, about nine feet asunder* It has been observedjlK that in this situation they would not impede the passage of Jb* enemy who should ford it ; but Geoffrey of Monmouth says, that they were placed to prevent the passage of Ciesar's ships,* Aubrey wl^s Mformed by the celebi-ated antiquary, Elias Ash- mole, that the old current of the Thames had been changed liete, and that part of Middlesex opposite to this place was formerly in Surrey, from which it had been divided two or three hundred P 2 ' years l^rinxerat, quarum vestigia siidium ibidem i/s^ne hodie visuntur ; f,t vidutur iiispcctantibus quod singalge earum admo^um humj^vi femcris gros^'et cir- cumfusroI"undo fiuiiiinis infijja;. (Beda ^ >Eccl. Hist. L. l,c. 2, p. 187.) The latter observes ; " Praeterea alveo Tame^iis fliiniinis quo ad urbem ' JITrinovantuin Caisar navigaturus erat paleis fcrreis' atq^ic plumhulis instar ft-morh grosais subter amnem infixit ut naves Julii supervcntura; adventum hostiura expectcnt. {Ihsi. Reg. Briiuti. L 4.) ^ ^ • Manning and Brav's Sjjjjrcy, IT. 759. , W ^^j^ - * 212^ SCIIREY. If * years before wlien a church was swallowed up by the water.^ f this circumstance some tradition still exists ; for Mr. Bray onns us, tfiat in 1807, an old mm of sevouty-five acknowledged ^ heard that Sljepperton church waf^ carried away1[)y 'Ihc "^atll, and the present church built in a new place; but when tlfis happened he aould not tell. Tbat the current has been in some degree diverted seems actually to be the fact, as there is a piece of land on the Surrey side, which is part of the parish of jjjJI^Shepperton in Middlesex ; but there is none on the other side ^- which is deemed part of any Suriej^ parish. This piece of land, ^ called Cowey, lies near Walton-bridge, and contains between eight and nine acres, and is used by the inhabitants of Shepperton only. Another meadow directly, opposite to Shepperton Point, on the Surrey side, containing between five and six acres, is alsa part of the same parish,t Walton has a considerable fair for cattle on the Wednesday in Easter week; and another of less consequence on St. Peter's day, held under a grant from Henry VIII. In this parish are several capital houses. Apse Court is a mansion, to which belong about 220 acres; 145 of these are inclosed by a brick wall, covered with fruit trees, which, with a border round it, are lett to a gardener, the land in the middle being occupied as fields. It is the property of Edmund Hill, Esq. j In the Testa de Nevil, we find that half a hide of i|nd was held in Api^vof the king in capite, by the service of distributing bread and ale on All Saints' Day, for the souls of all the kings of Eng- land. On that day the owner still gives a barrel of beer and a fj[uarter of com iu bread to the poor. At Hcrsham, or Heversham, the celebrated William Lilly, th© ^ aihtrotefgfer, resided in a house which he purcliased, and which, ^Ij^ at his dealh iu 1G61, he devised to a son of Sir Bulstrodc Whit- lock. _ fifr ~ . Bttrw&pd Parle, fol'merlv the seat of the Lattons, is an elc- % ♦^ubre^'s SurreyJ'III. 94- . 1^ -^I^ng and liray's Surrey, II. 760. SURREY. 2ia I a parK. gHnt house, built by the present Sir Jolin Frederick in a pat which, with additional purchases made by him, contained iJOO acres, without any road or foot-path, before the late inclosinHtl^ the waste ground, wliich has added to it 150 acres. The arms of Latton, and others, are in one of the windows. > Burhill belonged early in the last century to Peter de la Porte, one of the South Sea Directors, who, in 1720, gave it by will to General Johnson. It now belongs to his grandson, whose ■father, on succeeding to |^e estate of the late Sir Charles Kenr Tynte, assumed that name^ Ashley, a mansion, with a park of 1 36 acres, was the seat of Christopher Villiers, Earl of Anglcsea, and afterwards the pro- perty of Sir Richard Pyne, Lord Chief Justice of Ireland, who died here in 1710. It next belonged to tlie Earl of Shannon, who left it to his daughter and heir, Grace, ^ife of the Earl of Middlesex. At length it descended to Henry Fletcher, Esq. who was created a baronet in 18(^; and dying in 180(7^ was succeeded in his title and estate by his^son, Henry, who has * pulled down a considerable part of tlie mansion. The grounds contain fir-trees of remarkable height and size. C The beautiful grounds at Pains Hill, which compre hendfelS acres, were formed bj| the Hon. Charles Hamilton. A fionsi- derable p^ of these grounds on the north side was taken from the barrfeiii heath ; the south side is a bank above the river Mole, which runs at the foot of it. Availing himself of the inequalities of the land, he made his plantations and placed his buildings with the utmost judgment; and formed a spacious piece of water, which, though considerably above the level of the river, is snp- pliea froili it \^ a simple, but ingenious, contri;J|jince. " There may be scenes,*' observes an author in his description of this seat, " where Nature has done more for herself; but in no plac^ that I ever saw has much been done for Nature as at Pains-hill. •»The beauty and unexpected variety of the scene, the happy situ-^ ation, elegant structure, and judicious form, of the building^ tl^ flourishing state, uncommon diversity, and contrasted groupage, P3 f ^ of 214 SURREY. tliei IreeSj and the contrivance of the v^ater, will not fail to awaken the most pleasing sensations/' In the temple%f Bac- fiUfk, was a fine antique colossal statue of that deity, with everal excellent busts of Roman emperors; and there was a grolto fitted up witli the finest spars. Mr. Hamilton indulged the public with a sight of the beauties of this place; and even allowed the use of small chairs drawn \yf ponies, wliich were provided at the inns at Cobham. In the latter part of his life he sold this place to Benjamin Bond Hopkins, Esq. who, as the original mansion was but small, eillbted a house on the brow of a hill which rises from the bank of tiie Mole near the bridge. It is a handsome white ^building ; the front, which faces the river, be- ing adorned in the ceiitre with a pediment supported by four co- lumns, and bowed sides. When Mr. Hopkins rfied, this estate "was sold agreeably to the provisions of his will ; many of the trees were cut down, and tlie gratification of viewing the beauties of this charming spot was refused to the public. It is now the residence of the Earl of ^ '*♦ SURREY. 219 of Walton, and part in Weybridge, the house being in the v latter; but some of the offices iu tliCj^former. Tlie mansion was burned down while the Duke of York was in Flanders, in 1793. Tlie fff'e broke out in the nig lit, by what accident was nel^er discovered, and the duchess and the servants escaped with some difficulty. A new house was erected, of whicli Holland ^ was the architect; and, in 1804, an act was passed for enabling his majesty to grant to the Duke of York for an adequate con- sideration the inhei itance of so much of this domain as was held of the Crown. ^ Ham is an old tnansion, standing in a small park at the con- flux of the Wey and the Thames. It formerly belonged to the Howards, and was granted to Catharine, daughter of Sir Charles Sedley, mistress of King James II. who created her Countess of Dorchester*. She married David Collyear, Earl of Portmore, and from their issue is descended William Chares, the present Earl. This house is now uninhabited, and in a very ruinous state. It stands on flat ground, in a paddock bordered by the river Wey. Near it are many large cedars and firs, tlie former much * This lady was a woman of a sprightly and agreeable wit, which could charm without the aid of beauty, aiitj longer maintain its power. The con- nexion formed before James's accession to the throne was continued after that event, and the king conferred on her the honours of a peerage. Her fa^" ther, a man of high spirif, considered lliis title as a splendid indignity, and was eitremely active in favour of the Prince of Orange, sarcastically observ- jn'g, that he should do his utmost to make his Majesty's dauglittr a queen, as the King had made his own a count(ifes. At length the pricsls, instigated by James's queen, prevailed on him to break off his connexion with the countess, who was ordered to retire to France, wiili the threat, that in case of her re- fusal, her pension of 40001. a year should he withdrawn. Tq this circumstance it probably was, tliat Johnson alluded in these lines : Yet Vane could tell what ills from beauty spring. And Sedh'y curs'd the form that pleas'd the King, By the Countess of Dorche^er J«nes had a daughter first married to James, Earl ofAnglesea, and afterwards to John Sheffield, Duk*; of Buckingham. i 220 SURREY. 1^ touch broken by the weight of the snow wliich fell in t!ie winter of 1808-9, and lodge4|pn them. One of the cedars is perhaps the largest in .Jlngland ; at five feet from the ground it Yneasures about thirteen feet in circumference, and runs up straight to a great height. One of the parlours is a handsome room, in which hang por- traits of the Countess of Dorchester, her husband, the Earl of Portmore, the Duchess of Dorset, the Duchess of Leeds, and Nell Gwynn. In a room up stairs is a pictme of two boys, children of the Duchess of Dorset ; the rest are sSl tl^en down. In the attic story is a room with a coved ceiling, used by James II. as a chapel ; within it is his bed-room, from which there is a private passage, and a place is shewn in which he concealed himself on the advance of tlie Prince of Orange to London. There are some small cupboards, called barracks, as his guards,] who must have been very few, are said to have slept there. Brooklands, a handsome house, stood on part of the heath, formerly a rabbit-warren, let on lease by the Crown to George Payne, Esq. who was keeper of the lions in the Tower, and had the appropriale appointment of ambassador to the Emperor of Morocco. He here made large plantations, chiefly of Scotch fir. The Crown refusing to renew the lease, which would ex^**- pire ia 1834, the remaining term was purchased by the Duke of York, who pulled down the house. The grounds comprehended about 300 acres. The Church, dedicated to St, James, is small, but neat, having a nave and south aisle, at the west end of which is the vault if the Earl of Portmore's family, built up about four feet above the level of the pavement, inclosed with iron rails. There is no in- scription. Within hang a helmet, a spear, gauntlets, and several colours brought from Gibraltar, by the husband of the Countesa of Dorchester,^ho is also interred here. In the chancel lies in- terred Sir Thomas Hopson, one of the British naval heroes at the conclusion of the 17th, and beginning of the 18th tentury, who retired towards the end of his life to^-this place, where he died, -in SURREY. 221 iti?, aged seventy -five. In the church-yard is also a monument for his lady, and for his eldest daughter and her husband. Captain John Watkins, commander of the Devonsiiire, who fell in an en» gagement with 9. French sc^uadron in 1707. IThe Hundred of Blackheath j| is bounded on the east by that of Dorking ; on the south by Sus- sex ; on the west by the hundred of Godalming, and on the north by Woking. It lies in the deanery of Stoke, has no market-town, and comprehends the parishes oiAlhury,Alfold, Bramley , Cran- ley, Duns/old, Ewhurst, Hascomh, St. Martha* s, ^halford. Shire, and Wonersh. This hundred remained in the Crown until 18 James I. when tha^t king, by his letters patent, dated November, 13, 1620, jugr^ted it in tail male to Sir Edward Zouch, of Woking, Knt. marshal of his household, and in default of such issue, in tail male also to Sir Alan Zouch, Knt. Richard Zouch, LL. D. William Zouch of Pitton, Wiltshire, and John Zouch of Codnour, Derby- shire ; to have and to hold from Lady-day then last past, (together with the manors of Woking, Chobham, and other lands, tene- ^ ments and hereditaments) by the service of carrying up the first ^ diih to the king's table, wheresoever lie shall be in England, oa the feast of St. James, next after each person shall succeed to tha inheritance, and also of paying 2001. of coined gold, of the coin or ^ the kingdom of England, in lieu of all services whatsoever. By an indenture bearing date Februarj 23, 1672, Charles II. granted the reversion of this hundred, ^ind the estates above- mentioned, for the term of one thousand years from the ensuing Michaelmas, in trust for Barbara, Duchess of Cleveland, and her issue by him : ^ud by virtue of this grant she became possessed of them in 170^ on the death of James, grandson of Sir Edward Zouch, without issue. The duchess died in 1709; and in 1715> the"pTOpe|^y included in the grant was conveyed by the trus- tees to John Walter, Esq. of Busbridge, in Godalming, on whose a) death 222 # sub|||y. death in 1736, it descended to his son Abel. The latter havinG^, in 1748, obtained from the Crown a grant in fee simple of the re-» version and inheritance on the determination of the aforesaid term, sold the same in 1752, to Richard Lord Onslow, at whose death, in 1776, it descended to George Earl Onslow, the present proprietor. Aldbuhy is supposed to derive its name from some ancient ■work of note; a conjecture which seems to be confirmed by the existence of some remarkable remains of antiquity on Bliickheath, in this parish. Here, on a plain about a stone's thiow from the road to Cranley, is the platform of what is generally considered to have been a Roman temple. In Aubrey^s time the foundations of this edifice were as high as the banks by which it was surround- ed ; but that writer informs us, that, about 1670, it was dug up for the sake of the stone and brick, and that many Roman tiles of a pretty kind of moulding, some with eight angles, as also several^* 1^ Roman coins, have been found hereabouts, and in other parts of Blackheath. Mr. Bray, who visited this place in 1803, informs us that the spot is marked by a square bank twenty-two yards on each side, covered with short grass instead of surrounding heath. It occupies the centre of a square piece of ground 220 yards on each side, just ten times the size of the site of the building, con- "K taining ten ateres, on the west side of which is a double bank, and a ditch perfect. From this inclosure on the north and south sides a single bank runs eastward ; but there is none on the east side. On digging into the banks they were found to be full of fragments ^ 4i of Roman tiles, some having a raised ledge on one side, and mor- tar. Among them was also thrown up part of a stag's horn, and a small piece of a little nrn. Aldhury Place was purchased in 1638, of the Duncumbes, by ^ Thonqias Howard, Earl of Arundel, and was the residence of his descendants, the Dukes of Norfolk. His grandson Henry, wc are told, pulled down the old mansion, and erected a nqblepile on its foundation, cutting a canal about a quarter of ailtaiire long, and sixty feet broad, and planting a vineyard above it of twelve ^ € acres. #» ♦ acres. One of the most remarkable works which he undertook here was the formation of a passage through the bottom of ai hili 160 yartls in length, and of great ^leight and breadth, which was intended for a way to tlic house ; but a rock at the south end prevented the design. In 1678, this place was sold to that dis- tinguished lawyer Heneage Finch, afterwards created Baron of Guernsey, and JEarl of Aylesford. His successor, who in his fiither^s life-time represented this county, made Aldbury his con- stant residence ; and being much attached to rural sports, he took great pains to multiply the breed of pheasants, which before were rare in this neighbourhood, though now they are very abundant. By the grandson of this nobleman the estate was sold to his bro- ther the Honourable William Clement Finch, wiio expended a considerable sum in repairing and fitting up the house, and en- larging the grounds. He died in 1794, with the rank of ad- miral ; and under his will the estate was sold in 1800, to Samuel Thornton, Esq. one of the representatives for this county, of whom it was purchased in 1811, by Mr. Wall, the present pro- prietor, who is erecting a handsome building for stables at some distance from the house. > i- \ The old mansion was burned down in the time of the first Earl of Aylesford. The present is an elegant structure; the principal front is adorned with eight coupled Ionic columns, supporting a pediment. It was considerably altered and improved by Mr. Thornton. ^The park, a beautiful piece of ground, finely wooded, and abounding in particular willi stately chesnut-trees, com- prehends 250 acres, but was formerly more extensive. Within the inclosure, near the foot of the chalk-hill, rises a strong spring, which forms three ponds, called Shireburn Ponds ; the water is remarkably clear ^nd cold, and is conducted to supply the basin and fountain in the garden, \ Weston House, in the same parish, was erected by Abel AU leyne, Esq. who died in 1727, His executors sold this estate to Robert God^chall, Esq. At his decease, in 1742, i^evolved to 224 in 1752, married William Man, Esq. who added the name of Godschall to his own, and their only surviving son, the Rev. * Samuel Man Godschall is the present owner. Near tiie parsonage is another estate, called Weston, but the mansion and part of the land lie in the parish of Shire. This was some time the residence of Elias Ashmole, the celebrated antiquary I it afterwards belonged to the family, of Schaw, and •was purchased in 1804, by the Honourable Robert Clive, from whom the grounds have received considerable alterations and im- provements. In the Church, which stands in Aldbury Park, are two remark- able octagonal pillars, placed upon circular bases of Sussex mar- ble, and supporting the arches which separate the nave from the aisle. They have mouldings, and appear to have belonged to some other structure : it is possible that they mav have been brought hither from the Roman temple already mentioned ; for Camden observes, that the bases of some pillars were still remain- ing there in the age preceding that in which he wrote. The font is square, of Sussex marble, and supported by a round pillar of the same material, which, from the measure, ^ems to have been part of the shaft of a column belonging to one of the bases in the church. This church contains many monuments of the family of Dun- cumbe, formerly proprietors of Weston House. In the chancel is a black marble pyramid decorated with the civic insignia, in- scribed to the memory of Sir Robert Godscliall, who, atj^s death in 1742, was Lord Mayor of London, and one of the represen- tatives for that metropolis. Here also is interred, but without any memorial, William Oughtred, a celebrated mathematician of the seventeenth centurj% who, according to QoV.'ier, died in an ecstacy of joy on hearing of the Restoration, in June 1660, aged^ 86 or 87. In the parish of Cranley formerly stood the spacious mansion t)f the lords of the manor of Shire, called Vacherie, as being their principal grange, or dairy-farm. Of this e^fice long since ^ ^demblished. SURREY. 225 demolished^ nothing is now discernible but some remains of the foundations, and of the moat by which it was encompassed. The house, with part of the park, was sold by Sir Edward Bray in the beginning of the seventeenth century, and afterwards became the property of the Onslow family, to which it belonged till pur- chased by the singular, but wortliy Thomas Day, Esq. from whom it descended to Mrs. Day's nephew, Thomas Lowndes, Esq. the present owner. Baynards, another estate in this parish, formerly belonged to the Brays, but is now the property of Earl Onslow. A considera- ble part of the mansion remains, but has been converted into a farm-house. The painted glass which formerly adorned the win- dows has been removed by the noble owner to the church of West Clandon. The mansion of Knoll, which manor likewise belongs to Earl Onslow, is situated, as the name implies, on an eminence. The greater part of the old] structure has been demolished; but the remainder, converted into a farm-house, has undergone little al- teration. In a west wing is a large and well-proportioned par- lour, wainscctted in fluted pannels, the ancient chimney-piece of which, adorned with various rude ornaments, is still entire. In the centre are the arms of Sir Richard Onslow, who died in 1664, carved in wood; and over the chimney -j)iece is this inscription ; jEstate frigko, Hyeme incalesco. In the windows of the church are yet to be seen some curious remains of painted glass. In the window of the Vacherie Chapel, which is of tracery work, are the figures of our Saviour, and of two angels holding censers ; and in another, in the Knoll Chapel, are various figures of the Kings of Judah crowned, with scrolls in their hands, denoting in Saxon capitals their respective names. These formed part of what is called the root of Jesse, being a tree issuing from a figure at bottom, and the branches inscribed with figures and names of the different descents of Christ from David. In the centre is a sitting figure, the head gone, and in the hand ^ white rose. In the centre of the top was Christ nailed by the left Vol. XIV. Q hand scrnREY. hand and feet lo tlie cross ; and below a female figure standing', which is yet perfect *. Thomas de Crawley is conjectured to have been a native of this phiCe. lie was educated at Merton College, Oxford, of which University he became Chancellor in 1390. In 1398, he accompanied Thomas Holland, Duke of Surrey, and lord lieu- tenant of Ireland to that kingdom, where he was appointed Arch- bishop of Dublin, Lord Clianceilor. and at length Cliief Justice, or Deputy. In 1417, being then eighty years of age, he re- lumed to England ; and dying at Farringdon, in Berkshire, was buried in New College Chapel, Oxford. Leland speaks of this })relate a;;; a person of excellent genius, and a persuasive writer, iiiid adds, that he had seen a poetical composition by him of great elegance and merit ; and from wiiich he also conjectured that he must have possessed considerable learning. It was a poetical epistle, containing 106 verses, addressed to King Henry V. to whom he complains of the refractory behaviour of the Irish un* der his administration. In the parish of Ha scoMB, southward of the church, rises a high and long woody ridge, commanding extensive views on every side. On part of this eminence, called Castle Hill, are the remains of a small Roman camp. The works are single, and the area almost square, as the ground admits of that form. Here was some years since erected a telegraph, which forms part of the line communicating between London and Portsmouth. The soil of this hill is j>eculiarly adapted to the growth of beeches; one of tliose trees, of extraordinary dimensions, is known by the name of IJasconib-Bcech, and may be seen at a great distance round. St. Martha^s on the Hill is a small parish about two miles south-east from Guildford. The church, or chapel, as it is called, occupies the summit of the eminence, where it ])rcsents a con- apicuous object. Its form was originally that of a crass ; and the materials of which it was constructed are a rude composition of tiints, • Mauninj's Surrey, Vol. I. 540. stnkEY. 227 flints, and unwroughl stones, mixed with liard mortar. In the ■west end is a circular arch, which has evidently been lately re- paired to preserve it from entire demolition ; and above this is the appearance of another arch of the same form and dimen- sions. The whole of the nave is in a most ruinous state, and without a roof ; but the choir and transept are kept in repair, and used for divine service by the inhabitants of Cljilvvorth. On the east side of the south transept are the remains of a hand- some Gothic window, now filled up ; the great east window was likewise pointed ; and in the north transept appears a low door with a circular arch, but no regular style of architecture is visible iti the building. That it has long been in a state of de- cay may be inferred from a memoir of Bishop Wainflete, extract- ed from his Register, and dated May 20, 1463, when " forty days' indulgence were granted to such as should resort to it on account of devotion, prayer, pilgrimage, or offering ; and should there say Pater-noster, the Angel's Salutation, and Apostles* Creed; or should contribute, bequeath, or otherwise assign, any thing toward the maintenance, repair, or rebuilding, of the same.'' From the same memoir we also learn that this edifice was dedi- cated to St. Martha, and all Holy Martyrs, and that the hill on which it is situated was called Martyrs' Hill. Hence it seems probable, that it was a chauntry over the graves of some Chris- tians who suffered on this spot. This conjecture is the more plausible, as it is not likely that a building originally designed for the ordinary purposes of religion should have been erected on a place so difficult of access, and so inconvenient for the parishioners; and it is farther confirmed by the grant of the bishop's indulgence to such as should go thither on " pilgrimage." In the parish ofSHALFORD is Shalford House, the seat of H. E. Austin, Esq. which contains many good pictures, some of which are from the pencil of Annibal Caracci, Vandyck, Reu- bens, Vandermeulens, Sir Peter Lely, and other first-rate mas- ters. Q2 Shire 208 SURREY. Shire is a village agreeably situated at the southern foot of the range of chalk hills, on the Tillingbourii, a branch of the Wey. One of the manors of this parish was given by Henry VII. to Sir Reginald Bray, who was an active instrument in procuring his elevation to the throne. Under that monarch he filled many high and important stations ; and in the chapel of St. George at Windsor, and Henry the Seventh's at Westminster, the design of which is attributed to him, he has left lasting monuments of his liberality and taste in the polite arts. Holinshed, after men- tioning his death, characterizes him as " a verie father of his countrie ; and for his high wisdome, and singular love to justice well worthie to beare that title and adds, " that if any thing had beene donne amisse contrarie to law and equitie, he would after an humble sort, plaiuelie blame the king, and give him good advertisement that he should not onlie reforme the same, but also be more circumspect in any other the like case." He died in 1503 ; and, in pursuance of his will, this estate was pos- sessed by his nephew Edmund, who was afterwards knighted, and from whom it has descended in a direct line to William Bray, Esq. the present proprietor. This gentleman, the indefatigable editor of the History of Surrey, resides at High House, a neat mansion near the church, and has by purchase reunited the manor of Shire Eborum, an abbreviation of Eboravum, (so named from its having belonged to the house of York,) to the possessions of his ancestors. Mr. Bray has all his life been improving his grounds, the planting of which he has carried on to a consider- able extent on the hills behind his residence, in a manner not less creditable to his taste than to his spirit. These eminences command extensive and delicious views, particularly over the south-western parts of the county. Netley House, in this parish, is the seat of Edmund Shallet Lomax, Esq. whose extensive plantations crown the brow of the hill which overlooks the village. The Church, dedicated to St. James, is a handsome and sub- ■f stantial SURREY. stantial edifice/consisting of a nave, ciiancel, and south aisle. The steeple having a spire partly covered with lead, and partly with shingles, stands in the centre, and contains six bells. On the north side of the nave is a small chapel, in the window of which are three red roses, and one white. In one of the windows of the south aisle are painted the figures of hemp-breakers, being the device of Sir Reginald Bray ; and in tliat of the chancel are four escutcheons, with the arms of England, Ormond, Warren, and Clare. In this church are some sepulchral memorials of considerable antiquity. On a marble in the chancel is an inscription for a rector of this parish, who died in 1412; and another for Ihe youngest daughter of the fourth Earl of Ormond, who died in 1435. Here also was an altar -tomb of marble, now laid even with the floor, bearing the effigy of a man in complete armour, and a grey- hound sitting between his feet, having a collar about his neck, with a chain attached to it. The lower part of the figure is now lost. From two fragments of an inscription on brass plates, which went round the upper edge of the table, we learn that it was the tomb of John Lord Audley, who died in 1491. These fragments, though torn oft, are still preserved in the parish chest, and contain the following words, in black letter character: . . . vir dominus .Johannes Towchet quondam .... .... d'n*s de Awdeley qui obijt vicesimo die mens. . . . Aubrey says, that the coats of arms three on each side, and one at the head, had been stolen when he wrote *. In this church are also memorials of the Duncumbes, who have for four generations been rectors of this parish, ever since the year 1659, and several for the family of the present lord of the Q 3 manor, * An Engraving of this monument is given in Gongh's Sepulchral Monu- ments, Vol. II. PI. CXXIV. p. 372, and in Manning's History of Surrey, on one plate with a door in the south porch, the nortlj and east windows, and font of this church. Vol. II. p. ^25, 230 SURREY. manor, -whose grandfather and father are interred in the south chancel ; and his two brothers, wife and daughter, in the church- yard ^ WoNERSH was, in the seventeenth century, a place of consi- derable note for its cloth manufactures, which have long since gone to decay. The trade chiefly consisted in making blue cloths for the Canary Islands; but it was ruined by the fraudulent practices of the manufacturers, who found out a method of stretch- ing their pieces, which should have been 18 yards in length, to 22 or 23 yards, by which the cloth was rendered much thinner, and consequently less durable. Green Place, situate near Wonersh church, is the mansion of Lord Grantley, whose father made considerable additions to it, and laid some adjoining lands into the park. It was formerly the residence of the Eliots, who afterwards removed to Busbridge near Godalming. Early in the last century it became the pro- perty of Sir William Chappie, one of the Judges in the Court of King's Bench, whose daughter, Grace, became at length his sole heir. She married Fletcher Norton, Esq. of Grantley, in the county of York. Bred to the bar, he became one of the most eminent among the counsel of his time, was appointed Solicitor General in 1761, and Attorney General in 1763. In 1769 he was made Chief Justice in Eyre south of Trent, chosen Speaker of the House of Commons, in 1770, and in 1782 elevated to the peerage by the title of Lord Grantley, Baron of Markenfield in the county of York. He died in 1789, and was succeeded by his eldest son, William, the present proprietor of this place. The Hundred of Godalming is hounded on the east by Blackheath ; on the south by the county of Sussex ; on the west by the hundred of ^aruham ; an^ on the north by that of Woking. It belongs to the deanery of Stoke, and contains the following parishes : Chidingfold, Comp- ton, Ertirigdoii, Godalming, Hamildon, Haslemere, P^eper- luirroic, Puttenhunij Thuisle^, and Witley. King SURREY. 231 King Henry II. in the second year of his rei^n, gave this hun- •dred, together with the manor of Godahning, to the chiircli of Salisbury, in exchange for the castles of Devizes and Rudcs (Earlstoke,) in Wiltshire, belonging to lite bishop of that see. By his successors it was held till 33 Henry VIU. when it was conveyed to Sir Thomas Paston, Knt. and hy him to the king in 1542. At length, in 1601, it was granted by Elizabeth, with all its appurtenances, to Sir George More, Knt. of Loseley, from whom it has descended to James More Molyneux, Esq. the pre- sent proprietor. GODALMING, ■which gives name to this hundred, is situated on tlie south bank of the river Wey, and on the edge of a considerable tract of mea- dow ; or, in the language of our Saxon aJicestors, an Ing, from which circumstance, and from the Saxon proprietor of it at some early period, it undoubtedly derived its name, being tliorefore called Godhelm's Ing ; and, by contraction of these two words into one, Godhelming, or Godelming, a name at once descriptive of its situation, agreeable to the known custom of deriving the names of places from their proprietors, and at the same time exactly conformable to the most anciently received manner of writing it. Such is the conjecture of Manning,* which certainly seems much more plausible than that of Aubrey, who derives the name from a certain Saxou lady called Goda, from whose libe- rality in bestowing it upon some religious house, he supposes it to have acquired the appellation of Goda's Alms, or God-aim- ing : especially as it is known for certain that this lordship was never in the possession of any religious body, till given by Henry II. to the church of Salisbury. Equally unfounded is the idea that this was once an episcopal see, with its bishop, dean, and canons. The Bishoji and church of Salisbury were formerly proprietors of lliis manor : his canons, and at length their dean, were even before that possessed of the rectory and Q 4 advowson : * History of Surrey, T. f^ni. 232 SURREY. advowson : the houses in Church-street are for the most part within the Dean's manor of the rectory, wliich is called the Dean's Hold ; and finally, the proprietor of Loseley has of late years been lord of this manor: and from these circumstances, partly misconceived and partly misapplied, has arisen the mis- take. As to the bridge called Bishop's Bridge, a little to the north of the town on the London road, it doubtless received its name, from having been repaired or rebuilt by some one of the Bishops of Salisbury while the manor remained in their hands. At the time of the Domesday Survey, William the Conqueror was proprietor of the lordship of Godalming, as Edward the Confessor had been before him. It remained in the Crown till granted by Henry II. to the Bishop of Salisbury, in exchange for other possessions. The successor of this prelate obtained in 1294 a grant of free >varren throughout this manor ; and in 1300 a farther grant of a weekly market on Wednesday, and of a fair to be held annually on the festival of St. Peter. In 50 Edward III. a charter was obtained, by which various immunities were conferred on the town, especially an exemption from the payment of tolls. The see of Salisbury had been in possession of this manor upwards of 400 years, when, in 1542, it was conveyed to King Henry VIII. in exchange for other lands, and was vested in the Crown, till Queen Elizabeth, in 1601, granted it, together with the lordship of the hundred of Godalming, in consideration of tlie sum of 13411. to Sir George More, Knt. of Loseley, in whose descendants it has ever since remained, being now the property of James More Molyneux, Esq. The town of Godalming, ihirty-four miles from London, con- sists of a principal street, running nearly east and west, and several smaller ones. Tlie great road from London to Ports- mouth passes through it, as also the roads to Petworth and Chi- chester. The manufacture of cloths and kerseys formerly flou- rished at this town, as well as at Guildford, and other places in the neiglibourhood ; but of late years has gone very much to decay. Tiie business principally carried on at present is the manufacture SURREY. 233 manufacture of silk and worsted for stockings, gloves, &c. A manufacture of broad and narrow cloth was set up about thirty years ago, but did not succeed ; and in 1797 Mr. Godbold erected a building for spinning cotton, but it was never used for that purpose ; a manufacture of flannel and* baize being afterwards established in it. In the vicinity of the place are three paper- mills, and some others. In 1801 this town and parish contained 516 houses, and 3405 inhabitants. By an act of Parliament passed in 1760, the navigation of the river Wey was extended and continued from Guildford to Go- dalming, partly by means of the old channel, and partly by new cuts, to the great benefit and improvement of the town and ad- jacent country, whence timber, plank, hoops, bark, flour, paper, and wrought iron of various sorts, are sent in considerable quantities to London. There are four locks on this navigation, which was completed at the expense of 80001. raised by sub- scription. The Bridge over the Wey at this place formerly belonged to the lord of the manor, who shut it against carriages of every sort except in time of flood ; but in 1782 an act of Parliament was obtained to make it a county bridge, with the consent of Mrs. Molyneux, the then proprietor. The present structure was in consequence erected, and was opened for public use in 17b3. The weekly market, first granted by a charter of 28 Edward I. (1300,) and confirmed by a subsequent one of 17 Elizabeth, is held on Wednesday. The feirs, of which there are two, are kept on the 10th of July, and 13th of February. By a charter, dated 17th Elizabeth, 1575, the inhabitants of this town were incorporated by the style and title of the warden and inhabitants, with all the rights and privileges belonging to a body corporate and politic ; the warden being annually elected on Michaelmas Day, out of the eight assistants, as they are termed. The Church, dedicated to St. Peter, consists of a nave with two aisles, a chancel, separated by a transept, in the centre of which. ^34 SURREY. which, tipon four strong arches, is erected the steeple. The greatest length of the whole building is 117 feet, and its hreadth 48. The steeple is an ordinary spire of timber, covered with lead, and contains eight bells. The roof of the nave, the south chan- cel, and part of the north aisle, is divided into pannels, with sjnall frames of wood, in the junctures of wliich are placed various coats of arms, and other devices of the nobility, and others who had probably contributed to the repairs of this edifice. Among these are the letters H. R. crowned, the Prince of Wales's crest, the red and white rose conjoined, and the arms of England ami France in a garter, as borne by Arthur, Prince of Wales ; -whence it is conjectured that this wainscot ceiling was put up in the reign of Henry VII. and before the year 1502, in which Prince Arthur died. In the east window of the chancel was formerly extant this inscription : <&r.itc pi*o zxiimx ^tmici "©eptimi 1R« which renders it probable that the king himself was a contributor to the work. Here are numerous memorials of the Eliots of Busbridge, and the Wyatts of Shakleford. On a white marble tablet, with a small urn over it, against a pillar in the nave, is an inscription to the memory of the Rev. Mr. Manning, the historian of this county, who is interred in the church-yard, with a head-stone, oh which appears this epitapli : This stone is erected as a token of that respect and esteem so justly due to the Memory of the distinguishedly worthy Man whose remains are deposited here. The Rev. Owen Manning, 15. D. Canon of Lincoln, Rector of Peperharrow, Vicar of this Parish upwards of 37^'ears; also F. R. S. andF.A.S. He departed this life the 9th of September, 1801. in the 81st year of hi? age. All his Professional Duties were discharged with great Punctuality and EHlcary; and his Deportment through life was an amiable Example of that Rectitude of Conduct and universal Benevolence so SURREY. 2^6 so perfectly consistent with tiiose evangelical Truths which he had so long, so rationally, and so forcibly, impressed upon his Auditors.^ In the chancel of the south aisle, under an urn of white mar- ble, is also an inscription in gold letters on black marble, " to the memory of Nathaniel God bold, Esq. inventor and proprietor of that excellent medicine, the Ve<»:etable Balsam, for the cure of consumptions and asthmas. He departed this life the 17th day of December, 1799, aged 69 years." On the border of the common called Peasemersh, about three- quarters of a mile from Godalming on the road to Guildford, is an Alms-house, a plain brick building, with a small chapel in the centre, and a walled garden behind it. On the outside, over the door of the chapel, are the arms of the founder, and underneath this inscription : This * Mr. Manning was the son of Mr Owen Manning of Orllngbury, in the county of Northampton, where he was born. He was educated at Queen's College, Cambridge, and whilst at the University fell sick of the small-pox, and was supposed to be dead. His body was laid ont for interment, when his father, who was at Cambridge, went again into the room, and without seeing any cause for hope, said ; " I will give my poor boy another chance.'* At the same time he raised him up ; the motion instantly produced signs of life; proper means were employed, and he was restored to his friends and the world. In 1760 Dr. Thomas, to whom he was chaplain, gave him the prebend of Milton Ecclesia, in the cathedral of Lincoln ; in 1763 he was presented by Dr. Greene, Dean of Salisbury, to the vicarage of Godalming; and in 1769, by Viscount Midleton to the rectory of Peperharrow. In 1767 he was elected F. R. S. ; and in 1770 a Fellow of the Society of Anti- ciuaries. He expressly forbade his family to erect any monumeiU for him ; but such was the esteem in which he was Iield by his parishioners, that some of the principal of thera erected the above-mentioned tablet (o his memory in thechurcfi ; and some priv;ite friends placed the head stone and inscription in the church-yard. He married Catharine, daughter of Mr. Peacock of Huntingdon, by whom he had three sons and six daughters. She survived him ; and for her benefit the materials which he had collected for a History fit Surrey were arranged for the press by William Bray, Esfj. ol Shire, 236 SURREY. *' This Ospytall vas given by Mr. Richard Wyatt, of Lmidan, Esq, for tenn poore Men, w^'^ sufficient Lands to it for y«'^ Mayntenance for ever/' 1622. On tlie south wall of the chapel within is a brass plate, on which are engraved the figures of a man and woman kneeling, with an altar between them, and three children with each. Be- low is another inscription, commemorative of the founder, who died in 1619. Henry Smith, whose benefactions have been so frequently men- tioned, gave to this parish, in his life-time, 10001. whicli was laid out in the purchase of a farm at Unsted, in the parish of Shalford, now let at 731. 10s. the produce of which is distributed half yearly for the benefit of the poor, agreeably to the directions of the donor. Godalraing is remarkable as having been, in 1726, the scene of one of the grossest impostures ever practised on human cre- dulity, which the celebrated Whiston regarded as the accom- plishment of a prophecy, and which at the time occasioned considerable discussion. The principal actor in this farce was Mary Toft, a poor illiterate woman of this town, who pretended to be delivered of live rabbits, and managed matters with such dexterity, as to make even medical men her dupes. The press teemed with pamphlets on this phienomenon, an account of which was given to the world by Mr. St. Andre, anatomist to the Royal bousehold, and in high credit as a surgeon, who even promised to gratify the public with the anatomy of these " praeternatural" rabbits, and their figures taken from the life. This ridiculous aflair furnished Hogarth with the subject of one of his satirical prints, inscribed : Cunicularii, or the Wise Men of Godliraan in Consultation ; in which two of the principal figures are Mr. St. Andre, and Mr. John Howard, surgeon of Guildford, by whom the rabbits were ushered into the world. It was not long, as may easily be imagined, before the artifice of the pretended rab- bit-breeder was detected. The historian of Surrey remarks, that « Dr. SURREY. 231 " Dr. Bulleyii, who wrote about the middle of the sixteenth century, has recorded a popish juggle so much resembling this, that one would think Toft's tutors had read and improved upon it, as much as seventeen young rabbits produced by one woman can exceed a full-grown cat with bacon in its belly, brought into the world by a butcher's daughter at Harborough." Eashing, a hamlet in the parish of Godalming, situated on both sides of the Wey, about a mile and a half from the town, is supposed to be the ^Esc-ing given with other estates in this county by King Alfred in his will to his nephew iEthelm. Here stood a mansion formerly known by the name of Jordan's, and some time the property of the family of Tichbourn. In 1729, Sir Henry Joseph Tichbourn, Bart, sold it to Ezra Gill, Esq. who built the present elegant and commodious structure ; and at his death, in 1736, left it to his eldest son, William, the present proprietor. In Busbridge, or more properly, Bushbridge Park, is a mansion which formerly belonged to a family of the same name by whom it was sold in the latter end of the reign of Henry VIH. to that of Eliot, which continued in possession till the year 1710. It was then purchased by John Walter, Esq. of Barbadoes; and in 1748 became the property of Philip Carteret Webb, Esq. a distinguished lawyer, antiquary, and member in two parliaments for Haslemere. He died at Busbridge in 1770, and his relict sold the estate to Sir Robert Barker, who was created a baronet in 1781, and also died at this place, which is now the property of Henry Hare Townsend, Esq. This mansion contains many first- rate pictures, among which is a Madona with the infant Jesus, and St. John, by Raphael, and several by Tcniers, Vandyck, Rembrandt, Vandervelt, and others. The dining-room is adorned with a large collection of the best productions of Morland's pen- cil ; besides which, Mr. Townsend possesses many capital pieces by musters of the modern school, as Fuseli, Westall, Dance, Thompson, &c. Hasle. •238 SURREY, Haslemere is a small borough and market-town in the south-west angle of the county, where it borders upon Sussex and Hampshire. Tra- dition relates that it formerly occupied the side of the hill to the southward of the present town^ and was a place of considerable extent till ruined by the incursions of the Danes, but on what authority does not appear. From the ancient writers of our an- nals, we know that those rovers committed great depredations in these parts, and even made themselves masters of the county to- wards the conclusion of the ninth century, but no mention is made of this place in particular. In 1801 the town and parish contained 132 houses, and 642 inhabitants. Haslemere, though it has distinct parish officers, is but a paro- chial member of Chidingfold, and forms part of the manor of Godalming, of which, as we have seen, the bishops of Salisbury were lords from 2 Henry II. to 33 Henry VIII. Whilst in their possession, John Waltliam, bishop of that see, obtained a charter in 17 Richard II. for a market to be held here every Wednesday ; and for a yearly fair on the eve and day of the festival of the Holy Rood. These grants were confirmed by the charter conferred by Queen Elizabeth in the 38th year of her reign, with the addition of another fair to be held on the festival of St. Philip and St. James, and the two following days ; and by the same instrument the tolls of these fairs and market were to be applied to the relief and support of the poor burgesses of the place : but no corn has been brought to market for many years, so that the toll produces nothing. The greater part of the hamlet of Haslemere is within the manor of Godalming ; but there is a manor of Haslemere co-ex- tensive with the limits of the borough, which was the property of the Mores, and passed with that of Godalming till 1784, when the trustees, under the will of Thomas More Molyneux, Esq. sold it, together with many freeliolds in tlie borough, to Sir James Low- ther, afterwards Earl of Lonsdale. He at the same time pur- 9 chased SURREY. 239 chased such freeholds as had heon the properly of Philip Carteret VVfthb, Esq. and General Oglethorpe. Hasleiuere sdndtj two members to Parliament, and has enjoyed this privilege, as expressed in the diarter of Queen Elizabeth, from time bejond memory ; though Willis says, tbat it first re- turned them in the 27th year of her reign. It has been decided that the right of election belongs to the freeholdecs within the borough and manof , exclusive of any lands or tenements wliiclr are, or have been, part of the waste or stand upon it. Tiie bailiff', who is annually elected at the court-leet, is the ret«irning officer. This place was the scene of many very expensive and violent contests before the union of interests in the Earl of Lonsdale, itiince which time thitre has been no opposition. The Chapel, dedicated to St. Bartholomew, stands on a rising ground at the north end of the town, and is very small, having only a nave and north aisle, separated by a range of circular arches. At the west end is a small square tower with five bells. In the cast window is some painted glass in nine compartments. In the centre are the Virgin and Child, and Joseph in the stable; at the four corners the four Evangelists ; at the top is the Resur- rection, on one side the ark, on tlie other Adam and Eve at the forbidden tree, and at tlie bottom iSt. Paul's vision, Saul, Saul, ^uid persequeris me F In an Alms-house on the common adjoining to tlie town, and thence called Alms-house Contnion, a few poor people have ha- bitations; but since the decline of the tolls they receive no allow- ance. Pcperharroiv, the noble mansion of Viscount Midleton, in the parish of the same name, stands in a beautiful park, finely wooded, and watered by the river Wey, wijich runs tiirough it in its passage from Farnham to Godalrning. The late lord had pulled down the old mansion, and begun to build a new one, but died in 1765, before it was completed. The present nobleman finished it when he came of age, and ha^i mucli enlarged his 1^ rounds \ 240 SCRREY. grounds by different purchases. This mansion stands on a bank sloping down to the river, sheltered on the north by rising grounds covered with plantations, which also form a protection on the east. It consists of an entrance hall 33 feet by 21, and a breakfast-room on the north-east side. On the north-west is a bed-chamber and dressing-room. On the south-west is a library, 33 feet by 24, containing a very valuable collection of books, and a lady's dressing room. On the south-east is a din- ing-room 32 feet by 22, and a drawing-room 42 feet by 22. The rooms on this floor are all 17 feet high. They are adorned with many capital pictures by the first masters ; and many ori- ginal portraits, among which are the Emperor Charles V. by Titian, Bishop Burnet, Buchanan, the first Lord Midleton, Sir Thomas Brodrick, the late Admiral Brodrick, &c. The ofiices on the north-west side of the house are concealed by plantations. The coach-houses and stables are at a small distance in a court 156 feet by 1 22 The conservatory is to the west of the house, fronting the south, a little removed from the bank, which over- looks the river. The kitchen-garden, with hot-houses, contains about three acres. At Puttenham, a small parish northward of Godalming, is Puttenham Priori/, the seat of Admiral Cornish,* which stands opposite to the church. It was purchased by him in 1775 of Thomas Parker, Esq. who converted the old mansion-house into a modern one by means of alterations and additions, and formed a paddock of fifty-four acres, which he ornamented with planta- tions. The west front of the house is adorned with Corinthian columns, finished by a pediment ; and the north front is also deco- ruted with pilasters and cornice. The • This gentleman's paternal name was Pitchford ; but on the death of his uncle. Sir Samuel Cornish, Bart, who left him a considerable part of his for- tune, he assumed that name. He served under his uncle in the expedition against Manilla in 1762; and commanded the Arrogant in Lord Rodney's victory of the 12th of April 1782. SURREY. 241 The Hundred of Farnham, the smallest in the county, occupies its south-west corner, bein^ t)Ounded on tlie north by Woking ; on the east and south by Godalming; and on the west by Hampshire. It is included in the deanery of Stoke. The present hundred of Farnham corresponds with the district which in Domesday Book is termed the land of the Bishop of Winchester. Throughout this tract there was then, as now, no other parisli, properly speaking, than that of Farnham; the ham- lets of Elsted, Selcj and Frensham, with their appendages, being nothing more than chapelries under the rector and church of that place. The first of these, indeed, is thrown by the editors of mo- dern surveys into the hundred of Godalming ; but earlier writers, who were more correct in these matters, have placed it where it is rated in the county books, that is, in the hundred of Farn- ham. The Bishop of Winchester is lord of the hundred ; and the courts are held at a house a little northward of Farnham castle^ vulgarly called Lady House, i. e. Law Day, or Leet Day House* Farnham, which gives name to the hundred, is situated not far from the north bank of the Wey. It consists of one principal street, run- ning nearly east and west, containing many excellent houses, and some smaller ones branching off to the north and south. In 1801 . the town and parish comprehended 473 houses, and 2508 inha- bitants. Farnham was formerly remarkable for its cloth manufacture ; and while this continued, it is known that the culture of hops, though it might have been introduced, was not carried to any considerable extent. As the manufacture declined, and removed : from Farnham to some of the neighbouring towns, the culture of hops advanced and took its place. It is not easy to ascertain the date of this change in the occupation of the people of Farn- VoL. XIV. R ham ; • Manning's Surrey, Vol. I. Introd. xlv. 242 SURREY. ham ; but if we may credit tradition, corroborated by various cir- cumstances, it was about the middle, or rather towards the end, of the seventeenth century. Aubrey, however, positively as- serts that the person who first planted hops here brought that husbandry out of Suffolk seventy-six years before he wrote, which would fix the date of their introduction at the end of the sixteentli century. It would be a curious and interesting subject to ascertain, if possible, how long the Farnliam hops have borne their high cha- racter and price ; at what period they became so famous ; and to what circumstance they were first indebted for that peculiar mode of management by which they command a price so much superior to what is given for the produce of other districts. " On this point, however," says Stevenson, " I could learn no facts or cir- cumstances which would lead even to a probable or distant con- jecture."* So much is certain, that since the beginning of the last cen- tury the number of acres occupied by hops is nearly trebled ; they now cover about 900 acres, and the demand for plants is annually increasing. Several varieties of hops are here grown ; but the best, and that which is cultivated to the greatest extent, is the whitebine grape-hop, which was first raised from a single cutting about fifty years ago by Peckham Williams, Esq. of Badshot Place, near Farnham, who would never suflfer any other sort to be grown in his plantation, which is still kept up by that alone. It has gradually extended into the neighbourhood, and is found to be the most profitable variety on all good lands ; it is much esteemed for being a large hop, full of condition,! and of a pleasant delicate bitter. The largest of the hop plantations about Farnham is below sixly acres ; and in general they do not exceed ten or twenty. Iii * Surv. of Agric. of Surr. 327. ♦ Hops that are full of condition, on being rubbed hard in the hand, emit 31 degree of odour, and disclose a degree of clamminess, which are univer- sally admitted as a criterion of their strength. Marshall's South. Count I. 27«. SURREY. 243 In "a remarkably favorable season, a ton, and even twenty-four hundred weight, have somttimes been pulled off an acre of the very best grounds ; but the average produce of lands of middling quality may be laid at about six and a half hundred weight per acre. Some of the best land employed in the culture letts ae^ high as twenty pounds per acre ; good land for twelve or four- teen pounds ; and inferior at from six to ten pounds. Some sea- sons are celebrated at Farnham both for the great quantity and the superior quality of the hops. In 1778 there was a very large crop : but that of 1801 was still more abundant. In that year out of 16,000 pockets at Weyhill Michaelmas fair, 6000 were from this place ; and the prime Farnhams were all cleared off in about four hours. In 1803, when the crops were good, the average produce of this parish was estimated at seven or eight hundred weight per acre. The price of hops varies as much as the produce ; but the Farnham pocket hops are commonly one-third above those of the other districts, and sometimes fetch nearly double the price. The great mart for the Farnham hops is Weyhill fair : here they are chiefly bought by dealers to be retailed to private families, by whom they are preferred on account of the paleness of colour, and delicacy of flavor, which they give to malt liquor. Every pocket is stamped with a parti- cular device, which is changed every year, and the Farnham hop-growers bind themselves under a severe penalty not to put any other hops than what are grown about that town into the pockets thus marked, Mr. Stevenson, in his enquiries into the causes of the reputa- tion and peculiar quality of the Farnham hops, comes to this con- clusion, that they arise solely from their being better sorted and cleaned, and from their being picked before they are fully ripe. To the latter circumstance alone he ascribes what is termed their superior delicacy, which he seems inclined to call weakness ; but he maintains that the high price which they fetch is not so much commanded by the soil, the management, or the delicacy of the produce, as by the name which they have acquired ; since 2 the * i»44 stiiftEY. the growers of other districts, where the rent of laud is not sd enormously high as at Faruhani, though they might produce the quality of the hops of this place, yet, from being deprived of the name, would not be able to undersell them.* The manor of Farnham was given by Ethelbald, King of the West Saxons, to the sec of Winchester, to which it has ever since belonged. The town sent members to Parliament in tlie 4th and 5th of Edward IL but was probably one of the places which voluntarily relinquished this privilege, in those days con- sidered as a burden. Though uot a corporation, it is governed by twelve masters or burgesses, out of whose number two baililFs are annually chosen. These magistrates, who act under the Bishop of Winchester, to whom they pay an acknowledgment of twelve-pence per annum, receive the profits of the fairs and mar- kets, and hold every three weeks a court, which has power td try and determine all actions under the amount of forty shillings. The market here was anciently held on Sunday, till in the reign of King John it was removed to Thursday, on which it still con- tinues to be kept. It was formerly one of the greatest corn-mar- kets in this part of England. The town has three annual fairs, on Holy Thursday, June 4, and November 13, for horses, cattfe, sheep, and hogs. The Castle, seated upon a hill, on the north side of the main street, was originally built by Henry de Blois, brother of King Stephen, and Bishop of Winchester. This fortress was seized by Louis, the Dauphin, and the rebellious barons, in 1216; and some years afterwards razed to the ground by Henry III. It was, however, soon rebuilt in a style of great magnifi- cence, with a deep moat, strong walls, and towers. During the civil war in the seventeenth century, this post was garrisoned for the king by Sir John Denham, high sherilf of the county: but, in December 1642, it was taken by Sir William Waller, after a siege in which the edifice suffered greatly ; and such parts of it as remained entire were blown up by that generiil. In • Survey of Agric of Jiurrcj, 370 — 374. Sl/R11E¥» 24$ In 1648, the Commons directed an enquiry to he made into the condition of this castle, and Qfave orders that it iiihould he com- pletely dismantled, and rendered incapable of defence. After the Restoration, Dr. Morley, Bishop of Winchester, expendedi 80001. in rebuilding- and repairing this edifice ; but in the work he displayed neither skill nor judgment, the present structure being neither handsome nor convenient. It is quadrangular, em- battled, and built of brick, covered witli stucco, excepting' the tower at the west end ; and seems to have been patched up out o^' the building dismantled by oider of Parliament. It is one of the mansions of the Bishops of Winchester, and contains a line library, and some good paintings. Contiguous to this edifice are some remains of the keep of the ancient castle. It was a polygon, of no great area, seemingly hexagonal, and flanked by towers now demolished. Grose in- forms us, that in 1761, when the view of this relic was taken for ijis Antiquities, a flight of stairs led to what was the first story of the building, where there was a kind of platform, elevated about twenty feet from the ground ; and that the remains of some chimney-pieces in the ruins of the towers were still visible from this spot.* The walls were uncommonly weak, their thickness scarcely exceeding two feet ; they were chiefly of stone, inter- spersed here and there with brick. The whole is yet surrounded with a strong stone wall, at the foot of which is a moat, now dry and planted with oaks. Adjoining to the castle is a pleasant park of considerable extent, watered by the little river Loddon which rises in this neighbourhood. The Church, formerly a chapel of case to Waverley Abbey, standing, at a little distance southward from the High-street, is an extensive fabric, apparently erected in the latter end of the fif- teenth, or the beginning of the sixteenth, century. It consists of a nave, which is continued to form the chancel, with a north and sonth aisle. All the windows, which are numerous, and that at the east end large, are adorned with tracery. The tower is re- R3 markably • Grose's Antiq. V. 91. SURREY. , markably substantial ; it has a small turret at each corner, and at the west end yet remains a bracket, which seems to have supported a niche for an image. The interior contains several handsome monuments, and has a good painting of the twelve apostles for an altar-piece. The Market- House is said to have been originally erected at the expense of a Mr. Clork, an inhabitant of the town, which has also a Free-School, and a good Charity-School. This town gave name and birth to Nicholas de Farnham, who studied physic at Oxford, Paris, and Bologna. On his re- turn home, after a residence of some years on the continent, he soon acquired such reputation, that Henry III. appointed him his physician. In this post he gave great satisfaction that the king, who, among other favours, conferred on him the bishopric of Chester, from which he was translated to that of Durham. The latter he enjoyed nine years, when he resigned the mitre for the pleasures of retirement, reserving three manors for liis support. He died in 1257, leaving seveml works on the practice of physic, and the nature of herbs, which were highly esteemed in that age. Moor Park, about two miles south-east of Farnham, the resi- dence of — - Timson, Esq. was originally the seat of Sir Wil- liam Temple. Here that celebrated statesman breathed his last ; and so attached was lie to this retirement, that, by his own direc- tions, his heart was buried in a silver box under the sun-dial in his garden opposite to a window from which he used to contem- plate and admire the beauteous works of nature. Moor Park is also remarkable as the place where Swift, who here resided with Sir William Temple as his secretary, first contracted his intimacy with his beloved Stella. The house, a large white edifice of simple architecture, stands on the west side of the park ; which, though not very extensive, affords several scenes most beaulifully romantic. About three quarters of a mile from this mansion, is a remarkable cavern, known by tlio name of Mother Ludlam's Hole. This grotto lies halfway SURREY, 247 halfway down the side of a hill covered with wood, towards the southernmost extremity of the Park. It seems to have been hewn out of the sand-stone rock, and to have increased considerahly in its dimensions since it was described by Grose. The greatest height of this excavation may be about twelve feet, and its breadth twenty ; but at the distance of about tliirty feet from the entrance it becomes so low and narrow as to be passable only by a person crawling on hands and knees. Its depth is doubtless considerable, but has been much exaggerated by vulgar report. Its course is not straight forward ; but at some distance from the mouth it turns to the left, or to the north. The bottom is paved, and has a passage in the middle for a small stream of clear water, which issues from the bottom of the cave. Two stone benches, placed one on each side, " seem to invite the visitor to that me- ditation for which this place is admirably calculated. The gloomy and uncertain depth of the receding grotto, the gentle murmurs of the rill, and the beauty of the prospect seen through the dark arched entrance, shagged with weeds, and the roots of trees, seem to conspire to excite solemn contemplation, and to fill the soul with a rapturous admiration of the great Crea- tor.'^ * From the Annals of Waverley it appears that this ca- R 4 vern • Grose's Antiq. V. 111. — The same writer gives tlie following amusing ac- count of the vulgar tradition respecting the origin of this cavern : — " This place," says he, " derives its name from a popular story, which makes it formerly the residence of a white witch, called Mother Ludlam, or Lud- low ; not one of those malevolent beings mentioned in the Dctmnnologie, a repetition of whose pranks as chronicled by Glanvil, Baxter, and Cotton. Mather erects the hair, and closes the circle of the listening rustics round the village fire. This old lady neither killed hogs, rode on broomsticks^ nor made children vomit nails and crooked pins, crimes for which many an old •woman has been sentenced to death by judges, who, however they may be vilified in this sceptical age, thereby certainly cleared themselves from the imputation of being wizards, or conjurors. On the contrary, Mother Lud- lam, instead of injuring, when properly invoked, kindly assisted her poor neighbours in their necessities, by lending them such culinapy utensils and household furniture as they wanted on particular occaaions. The busine»s 248 SURREY. vei n was formed in 1216, for the purpose of collecting tlie several adjacent springs of water for the use of the monastery not above a quarter of a mile distant. Waver le^ Abbey, contiguous to Moor Park, is the residence of John Thompson, Esq. It is a modern mansion, low, but neat, consisting of a centre adorned with Ionic pilasters, and two wings. The ascent to the principal entrance is by a double flight of steps. Near the house are the ruins of the monastery from which it de- rives its name. This abbey, placed in a charming situation among sandy and heathy hills, on the bank of the Wey, was the first Cistertian convent in England. It was founded in 1128, by William Gif- fard. Bishop of Winchester ; and first inhabited by an abbot and twelve monks, from a foreign house, called Eleemosyna. The founder, by his charter, granted them all the land of Waverley for ever, with its appurtenances ; also two acres of meadow at Hele- stede (Elstead) with free pannage for their hogs in the woods of Farnham; likewise wood for their house, both for fuel and other necessary uses. These and other benefactions were confirmed by the king, and by the bull of Pope Eugene III. which farther exempted them from the payment of tithes, and declared all such excommunicated as should molest, or unjustly take any thing from them. From the Annals of Waverley it appears that at one time» about was thus transacted : — the petitioner went to the cave at midnight, turned three times round, and thrice repeated aloud. Pray, good Mother Ludlara, lend me such a thing, (naming the utensil) and 1 will return it within two days. lie or she then retired, and coming again the next morning, found at the entrance the requested moveable. This intercourse continued a long lime, till once, a person not returning a large cauldron at tl.e stipulated time, Ma- dam Ludlam was so irritated at this want of punctuality, that she refused to take it back when afterwards left at the cavern ; and from tliat time to this has not accommodated any cue with the must trifling loun. The story adds, tliat the cauldron was carried to Waverley Abbey ; and, alter the dissolution of that monastery, deposited in Frensham cinirch. * Printed by Gale m his Hist. Aiigl, Script. Vol. 11. SURREY. 249 about the end of the twelftli century, there were in this abbey seventy monks and 120 converts. From its low situation, it was several times exposed to violent inundations. In 1203, so great a famine prevailed in this part of England, that the monks were forced to repair to other religious houses for a subsistence; hut in the same year William de Bradwater began the foundation of the new church. In 1210, King John raised so severe a persecution against the monks of the Oistertian order, that the abbot of this house v/as obliged to withdraw secretly by night, the religious were dispersed, and the convent was plundered and left desolate. In 1278, the new church was finished, and consecrated by Nicholas de Ely, Bishop of Winchester, who treated most mu- nificently all who resorted thither, and was, in 1280, interred in that edifice. The annals terminate with the year 1292. At the Dissolution the clear annual revenues of this establishment were estimated at 1741. 8s. 3d. and in 28 Henry VIII. the site of the abbey and all its possessions weie granted to Sir William Fitz- william, treasurer of the household, and soon afterwards created Earl of Southampton. The estate has since passed tluougli many hands, and was purchased by the present proprietor of the late Sir Charles Rich, Bart, who is said to have expended 40001. in im- provements at this place. The remains of this abbey, overgrown with venerable ivy, ex- tend in detached portions over a surface of three or four acres. The elegance with which the buildings were finished renders it a matter of regret, that the greater part of them should have been pulled down for the materials by the Coldhams and Mr. Child, wliile proprietors of this estate. The ruins of" the great church prove that it must have been a spacious and magnificent struc- ture; at present only part of the south aisle remains, with the corner-stone of the chancel, or tower. In the middle of the nave is a stone cofiin, with black and yellow tesserae, and farther eastward another, with a cross flcuri. Part of the refectory, dormitory, and cloisters, are also standing, as was in the last century a large handsome chapel, and the hall, with a range of t low 250 ' SURREY. low slender pillars in the middle. In the memory of persons yet living, the windows contained a considerable quantity of painted glass, which has been gradually destroyed, and suffered to go to decay. Stone coffins and other sepulchral remains have frequently been dug up near the ruins; and in 1731 were found, in a stone loculus, two leaden dishes soldered together, containing a human heart well preserved in pickle, supposed to be that of Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Winchester, which, on his decease at Farn- ham, in 1238, was buried here. In the vestry of the church of Frensham hangs a huge cop- per cauldron, hammered out of one single piece. The ridicu- lous stories propagated by the vulgar respecting this cauldron have already been noticed ; but antiquaries themselves have been puzzled to account for its origin, and some have supposed that it was brought hither from Waverley Abbey, after the Dissolution of religious houses. On this subject Salmon observes, that "the great cauldron which lay in the vestry beyond the memory of man was no more brought thither from Waverley, than, as re- port goes, by the fairies. It need not raise any man's wonder for what use it was, there having been many in England, till very lately, to be seen ; as well as very large spits, which were given for the entertainment of the parish at the wedding of poor maids ; so in some places a sum of money was charged on lands for them, and a house for them to dwell in for a year after marriage. If these utensils of hospitality, which drew the neighbourhood to contribute upon so laudable an occasion, had committed treason as the property of a convent, tliey had not been too heavy to be carried off."* In the porch of tlie same church is deposited a stone coffin, removed thither from Waverley, which may have sug- gested tlie idea that the cauldron also can)e from that place. On an extensive heath, about half a mile from the church, is a large piece of water, known by the name of Frensham Great Pond. It is accounted three miles in circumference, and much fre- quented by wild fowl during the winter season. TH£ * Salinou'i Antiq. of Surrey. SURREY. 251 The Hundred of Woking lies on the west side of tlie county, and is bounded on the east by Emley Bridge and Copt horn ; on the south by Godalming and Blackheath ; on the west by the counties of Berkshire and Hamp- shire, and on the north by the hundred of Chertsey. The lordship of this hundred was granted 18 James I. with that of Blackheath, to Sir Edward Zouch, and was transmitted through the same hands to Earl Onslow, the present lord. It belongs to the deanery of Stoke, and contains seventeen parishes : Ash, East Clandon, West Clandon, Guildfoi d, East Horsley, West Hors- ley, Merrow, Ockham, Pirbright, Ripley, Send, Stoke, Wan- borough, Windlesham, Wisley, Woking, and Worplesdon. Guildford, the county town of Surrey, is large, well built, and agreeably situated on the side of a considerable chalk hill, on the east bank of the Wey, thirty miles distant from London. In its present state this may justly be considerisd one of the best inland towns of its size in the kingdom. It consists principally of one capital street, measuring something more than three furlongs ; the spa- ciousness of which, with the declivity of its situation, exhibits a very striking appearance, particularly to strangers. In 1801, it con- tained 464 houses, and 2634 inhabitants. This place gives the title of Earl to the noble family of North. By whicii of our ancient kings the privileges of a corporation were first conlerred upon this town cannot now be delermined. It is, tlierefore, a corporation by prescription, and is considered as such in the earliest of its written charters, which is that of Henry III. A. D. 1256. The privileges granted by this instrument have been confirmed and extended by many succeeding sovereigns. The town is governed by a mayor, recorder, seven magistrates, and a number of bailifls which is indeterminate, but seldom or never SDRftET. » never exceeds twenty, by the style of the mayor and approved men of Guildiord, who hold a court every three weeks, and are in- vested with the power of adjudging criminals to death at their ge- neral sessions. Guildford has sent members to Paaliament ever since 23 Ed- ward I. The right of election is in the freemen and freeholders of the borough paying scot and lot, and resident within its liinits, which scarcely include one half of the town. The assizes for the cou'Jty are held here alternately with King- ston and Croydon ; and the election for knights of the shire al- ways taices place in this town. It has a weekly market on Saturday, at w hich great quantities of corn are exposed for sale, and which is plentifully supplied with all other necessaries ; and two annual fairs on May 4, and November 2, for horses, cattle, sheep, and hogs. The spring fair in 1800, was attended by an extraordinary number of cattle ; the sheep and lambs alone amount- ing to 30,000. We meet witli no accounts of this town either in British or Ro- man annals ; neither do we Hud any mention made of it in Saxon liistory before the death of Alfred, A. D. 900, when that prince bequeathed it by will to Ethelwald, his nephew, on whose rebel- lion, or death, it reverted to the Crown. It appears to have been royal demesne at the time of the Domesday Survey, when the oc- cupants of tenements in the town were 175. Tradition states, that the ancient town was situated on the west side of the river; and this account, though not confirmed by positive evidence, is countenanced by circumstances which have led Manning to adopt tiiese conclusions : that, at the time of the general Survey, the tenements in question constituting tlie ancient town of Guildford, were situate on the west side of the river ; that the castle was erected on the east side as the only spot capable of receiving it; that, in process of time, as the occasions of the new fortress induced people to setth^ in its neighbourhood, houses were gra- dually built in the void space above and below it, by the Testard family, to whom the lands on that side had been granted, and wh<» SURREY. 253 ^ho J^lfeo erectett the two churches of Trinity and St. Mary for their tenants ; and that, on the demolition of the fortification and outworks of the castle, (whenever that happened) the present High Street arose out of the materials furnished from their ruins. This opinion is farther countenanced by names still in use here; the road on the east side of the river being at this day called the Bury, i. e. Burgh Lane, as having probably been the Borough, or main street; and the adjoining fields formerly occupied by other houses, gardens, &c. of tlie inhabitants the Bury, or Burgh Fields. The rest of the royal demesne that lay on the west side of the river was reserved for the king's private use; and being im- parked by Henry II. soon after his accession, was occupied by his successors for many generations under the name of the King's Manor. Of that which lay on the east side some was swal- lowed up in the tract of ground afterwards occupied by the castle : some was alienated, and as it seems by the Conqueror himself to the family of Testard, by whose successors it was afterwards called the manor of Poyle ; and the remainder disposed of to make room for the Friary. So much of the royal demesne of this place as remained un- alienated by the Conqueror and his successors was afterwards known by the name cjf the King^s Manor. From its neighbour- hood to the capital this could not but be considered as a convenient place of retirement, and as such was occupied by our princes in very early times The first step taken with this intention was by Henry II. who, soon after his coronation in 1154, inclosed a considerable tract of land on the north side of Guildford Down, and converted it into a park. In his time also there was a mansion house in the park, probably first erected by him; and here he fre- (juently kept his court. From the time that this place became the occasional residence ef our princes, certain wants of the household, on its removal hither, were supplied by the tenants of Crown lands in the neighbourhood. Some of these tenures afl;brd a curious illustra- tion SURREY. tion of the manners of the age. Thus, Robert the son of William Testard, in the time of Henry III. is called Custos meretricum in curia domini Regis. Robert de Mankesey, alias Gatton, is termed Mareschallm custodiendo meretrices de curia domini Regis ; and Mareschallus 12 puellarum quae sequuntur curiam domini Regis. Hamo, his son and heir, is styled Mareschallus meretricum, cum dominus Rex venerit in illis partihus ; and Hamo, the younger, Mareschallus de communihus fceminis se- quentibus hospitium domini Regis Guildford was, therefore, the occasional residence of many of our kings, till, in the reign of Charles I, the Earl of Annandale ob- tained a grant of the manor and park in fee simple, by which he was irapowered to dispark the lands, which were declared to be out of the bounds, of any forest or chace. The Friary included in this grant was declared to be the principal house, or lodge of the park. On the decease of the Earl of Annandale in 1640, this estate passed through various hands ; and, under a decree of the Court of Chancer}^ the manor and park were sold, in 1709, to the Honourable Thomas Onslow, afterwards Lord Onslow. Soon after this the lands were disparked, and are now occupied four distinct farms f, which are the property of Earl Onslow. The ' Manning has laboured to invalidate the ludicrSus reflections on the court of that time to which these terms have given occasion, and to prove, that the word Meretrix was here used in an indifferent sense, and as the description of such |)eople ill general who served for hire: but Lysons, in the Appendix to- the fifteenth volume of the Archaeologia (p. 399,) has quoted a record which proves be3'ond a doubt, that the word Meretrices is to be taken in its literal sense. In Liber Buher Scaccarii, cited by Spelman, in his Glossary, at the word Marcscullus, is this passage : — "Etsisoloit estre que le Maresscall devoit avoir douze Dumoisellez a la Coart le Roy, qui devioient fiiire seirement a son Baciieler, qu'elles nc saveroient aultres putains a la Court qu^etles nifsmes, no Ribaudes sans avowerie de assre, ne larron ne mesel quelles ne le mons- treront au Maresscal, et il doit pourvuir la Court de tout." t In a field near Henley Grove, belonging to one of these farms, au earthen pot wa» found in 1781, deposited in the chalky rock, about two feet beneath th? SURREY. 255 The Castle, the most prominent object in this town, is situated about 300 yards southward of the High Street. The Keep, stand- ing on an artificial mount, is now the principal relic of this edifice. It is a quadrangle forty-seven feet by forty-five and a half, and seventy feet high. Tlie foundation, to the height of eight or nine feet, is of chalk, above which the walls are con- structed of flints, rag-stone, and Roman brick, disposed in the herring-bone fasliion. It continues very strong, the walls being ten feet thick; but is uncovered, the roof having, on account of decay, been taken oflf near 200 years ago. In the walls are ca- vities which shew the remains of several apartments : in one of them on the second story are several rude figures deeply scratch- ed in the chalk, supposed to be the work of some prisoner confined here. King, in his Observations on Ancient Castles, makes the fol- lowing remarks on that of Guildford : " On the ground-floor," says he *, " there were no windows, nor even so much as loop- holes ; but in the upper stories there was one great window, near the middle on each side, the form of which was circular at the top. As to the rest of the present windows they are all modern breaches ; and even some of the old ones have plainly been al- tered and repaired, and have even had frames and pillars of brick- work inserted. The present entrance also is manifestly a breach made in these later ages. And the original entrance may be still perceived the surface. This pot, of very coarse earth, is narrower at the bottom than in the middle, where it is considerably protuberant; and whence it rises in the form of a truncated cone to the top, being about seventeen inches in height, and four feet four inches in circumference in the widest part. It was nearly half full of small pieces of burnt bones ; but, though search was made, nothing more was discovered to point out the character of the persoa whose remains they were. This pot is engraven in the plates of Urns in Cough's Camden. Introd. p. CXLIX. fig. 15. In the same farm, at the foot of an aged yew tree, was dug up, a few years since, a leaden urn, containing a heart preserved in spirits, * Arciiacologia, Vol. IV. 409. 9 250 STJRREY. perceived to have been undoubtedly through a stone arch, in the midst of the west front, at a considerable height; and must have been approached by a staircase on th^ outside of the wall. This arch, in which is a great peculiarity, (it being a pointed one, al- though of a date long before pointed arches were introduced into common use) still remains very perfect. And although it now passes for a window, yet that it was the ancient portal is manifest both from the stone arch within, which exactly corresponds with it, and differs from the arches of all the windows; and also from hence, that whereas the windows on the other three sides are at the same height from the ground, this arch and portal is some feet lower, and its bottom level with the marks of the floor within. " There was a circular staircase in one corner of the building ; and there are also galleries in the thickness of the wall, as at Rochester. There is likewise one very odd piece of fortification, which is the mock appearance of a false entrance, or sally-port (on the south side, and near the south-east angle) on the ground, seeming to be filled up with large square stones, of a different kind from the rest of the castle ; and having, in order to increase the deception, machicolations over it at a great height as if to defend it from attacks.^' On the west side of the keep, leading towards the south, or Quarry Street, still remains the outer gate of the castle, where was a portcullis, with the date 1669, and the iiiitials J. C, as having been rebuilt by John, grandson of Francis Carter, to whom this ancient edifice was granted by James I. The site at present occupied by these ruins is about five acres ; but, if we may judge from the remains of walls and other works, it must formerly have been very extensive. The cellars of the Angel Inn, on the north side of the High street, and those of a private dwelling di- rectly opposite to it on the south side, are supposed to have been part of the vaults belonging to the castle. Both are nearly of the same dimensions, and exhibit the same style of architecture, being SURREY. 257 l)eing about eight feet high, and twenty feet square, supported by short massive pillars, the one of stone, and tlie other of squared chalk, from which spring arches crossing in different directions. In the chalky cliff on w liich the castle stands, about 200 yards to the south-west of it, is a cavern, or r Uher a series of caverns, the entrance to which is near Quarry-street, facing tlic west. Here is a gentle lescent into a cave forty-five feet long, twenty wide, and nine high ; near the entrance, on either baud, were two lower passages, now closed up, leading to the other caverns. For what purpose these excavations were formed it is impossible to ascer- tain ; if, as Grose observes, only for the chalk, the workmen were bad economists of their labour : but many have, without the slightest foundation, looked upon this place as a subterraneous passage to the castle. The founder of the castle, and the date of its construction, are alike unknown. Mr. King, in the Sequel to his Observations on Ancient Castles, seems inclined to consider the keep at least as a Saxon fortress, constructed during the time of the hep- tarchy, It is somewhat extraordinary that the Domesday Survey should have omitted to make mention of it. The first time that it occurs in history is in the year 1036, when it was the the- atre of a sanguinary transaction. Harold, surnamed Harefoot, having been seated on the throne by the intrigues of Good- win, Earl of Kent, in opposition to t!ie sense of the people, which favored Hardicanute, son of the late king, then absent in Denmark; his mother, Emma, an ambitious woman, fearful of losing her influence, conceived the design of procuring the crow n for her son, Alfred, or his brotlier, Edward, the issue of her first marriage with King Ethelred. For this purpose she obtained Harold's permission to send for them from Normandy ; and on their arrival in England, the king, through the persuasion of Goodwin, wlio suspected Emma's intentions, gave them an invi- tation to spend a few days at his court. The mother, fearful of some design, suffered but one of h^r sons to go, and Alfred set out, attended by a numerous retinue of Normans, Near Guild- • Vol. XIV. ' S ford 258 SDRREY. ford he was met by Goodwin, who, with all the semblance of respect, invited him to partake of some refreshment in the castle. No sooner l)ad he reached it, than Goodwin threw off the mask ; Alfred was immediately seized, conducted to Ely, and, after his eyes had been put out, shut up in a monastery for life. His at- tendants were tortured with horrid cruelty, and six hundred of them put to death. In 1216, ^rt hen Louis, Dauphin of France, came over to Eng- land on the invitation of the barons, he soon possessed himself of this castle. In 27 Edward I. (1299) it was assigned to Mar- garet, second wife of that king, as part of her dowry ; but we find it used as a common gaol in 35th of the same reign, when Edward de Say, keeper of the king's prisoners here, petitioned that they might be removed to some stronger place, this castle being too weak for the safe custody of so many. It continued to be applied to the purpose of a gaol down to the reign of Henry VII. after which there is a chasm in the history of this castle, till it was granted by James I. in 1611, to Francis Carter, of Guild- ' ford, in whose descendants it was vested, till it lately came by purchase the property of the Duke of Norfolk. Queen Eleanor, consort of Henry III. founded a house of Dominicans, or Preaching Friars, on the east bank of the river, a little to the north of the High-street, but in what year, or of what number it consisted, is not known. Neither are we informed what were its revenues, or when it was surrendered. After the Dissolution, King Henry VIII. built a mansion on its site, whicb James I. demised, by lease, to Sir George More, Knt. of Loseley, of whom it was purchased by George Auslen, Gent, who, having pulled it down and rebuilt it, disposed of his interest in it to John Murray, Esq. afterwards Earl of Annandale. This nobleman, in consideration of the sum of 5000K obtained a grant of the estate, together with the park of Guildford, in fee-simple, on which he erected the present mansion, which is built for the most part of . clialk, with squares of flint regularly interspersed, having an klegiini portico of the Doric order at tl^e entrance, very much in the SDRREY. 259 the style of the celebrated Inigo Jones. After passing through various hands, this property was sold, about 1721, to John Russel and George Mabank, who made a partition of the same. Mabank's share, containing the site of the Friary, the present mansion-house, and other lands, was purchased about 1736 by the Right Hon. Arthur Onslow, Speaker of the Htuse of Com- mons, and is now the property of his son and heir. Earl Onslow. Till of late years assemblies and public breakfasts were held in a long room here. In 1794 it was lett for barracks, which were made sufficient to hold about four troops of horse. They are about to be rebuilt in a handsome and substantial manner. This town contains three parish churches, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, St. Mary, and St. Nicholas. Trinity Church is situated on the top of the hill, and on the iouth side of the High-street, and was probably built by some of the Testard family for the use of their tenants. In that part of the old church called Our Lady's Chapel was a chauntry, denomi- nated Norbrigge aud Kyngeston's chauntry, founded by letters patent of Henry VII. in 1485-6. The lands belonging to this chauntry have ever since 3 Edward VI. been in the hands of the Corporation, and are still known by the name of the Chauntry Lands. Here was also another chauntry or chapel, called Wes- ton's, being founded by one of the family of that name at Sutton. About 1739 the inhabitants repaired this church at an expense of 7501. and improved it by taking away the arches and pillars which supported the steeple. The consequence was soon ob- served in the decay of the latter; and on the 23d of April, 1740, the tower of this ancient church fell down and beat in the roof, by which the whole structure, already gone to decay, was so much damaged, that it was found necessary to take down and rebuild it. The first stone was laid in 1749, and it was opened for divine service in 1763. This new church is a handsome structure of brick, eighty-two feet in length, and fifty-two and a half in breadth. The tower, likewise of brick, is about ninety feet high, with battlements, was built by Mr. John Garton, an S 2 . ingenious 260 SURREY. ingenious workman, a native of the town, and contains eight bells.* In the old church was the monument of Sir Robert Parkhurst, Knt. with his effigies in his lord-mayor's habits, with the rega- lia of the city of London about him, and a lady kneeling at his feet. The different parts of this monument, much broken by the fall of the church, are deposited under the staircase of the gal- lery, the money raised for rebuilding the church being inadequate to its repair, f The only sepulchral memorial of the old church which has been replaced in the new one, is that of Archbishop Abbot, whicli stands at the east end of the south aisle. On an altar- tomb, under a canopy, supported by six black marble pillars raised on pedestals of hooks piled upon one another, is a full- length effigy, in white marble, o.' the prelate in his episcopal and parliamentary robes. At the east end, in niches, are two figures, with the inscriptions : Ilinc Lumen — Hie Gratia, over their heads ; and on the top are nine stnall figures, well arranged. On the west end, below the cushion, is a representation of a sepulchre filled with skulls and bones, and an iron grate before it. Ou the west end of this monument is the following inscrip- tion in capitals : Sacrum memoriae honoratissi Archi-praesulis D"^ Georgii Ah- hot, qui banc natal ib^ Guilforda' studiis Literarum Oxonia*, decoravit ; ubi Socius prirao Colleg. Baliol. dein* Coll. Univer- sitatis Prsefectds, & Academise Procancellari^ laudatissira^ pru- dentiae, pietatis, eruditionis a3stiniatione adeo gratiam pientiss^ Regumq; omnium doctiss^ Jacobi, Magn. Brit. Monarchae pro- meruit, ut, post Decanatum Winton, ad Episcopatu' Covent. & Lichf. mox ad London, statim ad Cant. Archie*patu' & totius Anglice primatu', et ad sacratiss' Concilii Regii senatu' cito subvolaret : Cnmque inde altius in terris non posset, Coelos petiit, dieru', honorumque plenus. Fralri, eideniq; Patri surame ve- neranda * Russcl's History of Giiildford, p. 53. t Ibid. 57. SURREY nerando Mauric'ms Abbot, Equ. Aurat. mereatiss** mseientisss hie aeviteirm* parental. At the east end : jEternae memorise sacrum. Magui hic (Hospes) Hospitis momenta vides, sed mortui; Videris Viventis etiam viventia. Quod pagum hunc utrinsq; sexus Ptochotrophio sumptuoso, Pro- vinciee suae Metropolim Aquceductu specioso, ornavit; Qu6d Primas annos 22 proesiderit, du'um optimoru* R. R. Consiliis in- servierit; Carolum pium diademate et unctione sacrarit ; Quod R. Jacobi jussu, Ecclesias oli' Scotice perlustravit; Quod curd ipsius, eundem R. eruditiss. Acaderaia Oxon. allubescentia mirA exceperit; sibiq; tum Burgenses Parlamenti, turn auctiores Pro- fessorum reditus impetrarit ; Quanti hsec ! Sed quod pie, pati- enter, lubenter, tanta liquerit, hoc unum in ultimis recensendu', in primis censendu^, censeas Hospes, et valeas. On the cushion under his head are these words :~Obiit A°. D. 1633, Augusti die 4^^ A^. aetat. 71. At this end, under the table, on which lies Ills elligies, the middle is filled up v.ith carvings of skulls and stones. At the east end of the north aisle is a cenotaph erected by Earl Onslow, in honor of his father, the Right Hon. Arthur Onslow, who was above thirty-three years Speaker of the House ot" Com- mons, and died in 1768. On an altar-tomb of free-stone, raised near six feet from the ground, is his effigies, in a recumbent posture and Roman habit; his left arm reclining on several vo- lumes of Votes and Journals of the House of Commons, from which issue two scrolls with inscriptions, recording the proceed- ings of that House in regard to the pension settled upon him in 1761. Under the figure, on the upper plinth of the raised work, are five coats of arms, illustrative of the intermarriages of the family : and underneath, in two compartments, a long inscrip- tion, commemorating his family alliances, honours, and charac- ter. Behind the figure rises a conical table of black marble, on which is suspended a medallion, wilh nine poats of arms. Mr; S 3 Onslow's 262 SURREY. Onslow's remains were interred in the family burial-place at Merrow. The benefice of this church is a rectory, which, by an act passed in 1699, for settling augmentations on certain small vicarages, was united with the adjoining living of St. Mary's parish. The rector is one of the five persons appointed by the will of Archbishop Abbot to elect a master of his Hospital ; and, if unmarried, lie may make the mastership his own option, on a vacancy, without the form of an election. St. Marifs church is a very ancient building, mostly of chalk, but with an intermixture of flints, pebbles, and rubble stones, rudely put together. It is supposed to have been erected by one of the Testard family, and stands on the declivity of the hill a little to the southward of the High-street. It consists of a nave with two aisles, and a chancel, with a chapel on each side of it, formerly communicating with the chancel by arches now stopped up. These chapels do not extend the length of the chancel, and are round at the east end.* A little to the eastward of the centre of this church is a small embattled tower of the same materials as the rest of the edifice, and containing six bells. St. Nicholas' church, which stands on the west bank of the Wey, is an ancient building of chalk, intermixed with stone. It consists of a nave and two aisles, under three different roofs covered with tiles. At the west end is a low tower built entirely of an indifferent kind of stone, and standing on circular arches. A chapel belonging to the manor of Loseley adjoins the south end of t]ie church, from which it is separated by an open wooden skreen. This church stands in so low a situation, that in floods the floor was sometimes covered with water, on which account, in 1799 and 1800, a floor of boards was laid over the old floor. The * fetukeley, in his Itinerary, speaking of the round churches of Northamp- ton and Cambridge, observes, that he had heard that there was one of a similar kind at Guildford, which are all of the sort he knew of in England ; and he conjectures them to have been built in the later time* of the Romans, at least in the early Saxon reign*. SURREY. 203 The brasses which were upon it are all lost; but some of tlie stones taken up on this occasion, with marks of brasses upon them, are laid in the passage from the gate-house to the church door. In this church still remains one inscription so ancient as the fourteenth century. It is on a brass plate, upon a raised monu- ment at the east end of the north aisle, with the effigies of a priest habited in scarlet, and a dog at his feet : Hie jacet Arnaldus Brocas Baculari . . . ut' usq ; Juris Ca- nonic' Lincoln* & Wellens* & qu'dam Rector isti' loci, qui obiit in Vig'Pa Assu'to's be* Marie, Anno Domini Millesimo CCC nonagesimo quinto. Part of another of a still more ancient date, 1368, formerly on a brass plate, under the portrait of a priest in his proper habit, is recorded in Aubrey, but not now to be found in the church. It is supposed to have been for Bernard Brocas, rector about that time. In Loseley Chapel are various monuments /or the equestrian families of More and Molyneux. On the north side of the High-street, and nearly opposite to Trinity Church, is the Hospital founded by George Abbot, Archbishop of Canterbury, for the maintenance of a master, twelve brethren, and eight sisters. The first stone was laid iu 1619, by Sir Nicholas Kemp, who at the same time gave 1001, towards carrying on the work, and 5001. more at his decease. The archbishop, who was present on this occasion, endowed it with a revenue of 2001. a year, issuing out of various farms in Surrey and Sussex, for the immediate support of its members, and 1001. a year more but of two farms in Burston and Charl- wood, for setting other poor to work within the hospital. When the building was finished, James I. in 1622, incorporated the members by the style and title of the Master and Brethren of the Hospital of the Holy Trinity in Guildford, with the full powers, privileges, and immunities of a body corporate, impow- ering the founder and his successors in the see of Canterbury to make statutes from time to time for its good government. A S 4 body 264 StJRREY. body of statutes was accordingly compiled by the founder himself. By these it is provided that the master of the hospital shall he a person of good character, horn in Guildford, or at least an inha- bitant for twenty years, of the age of fifty years at least; un- married at the time of his election ; and if he marry afterwards he must resign the mastership within three days. The persons authorized to elect the master are the mayor, or his deputy ; the rector of Trinity church, or, in his absence, the rector of St. Ni- cholas's; the vice-master, and the two senior brethren. The qua- lification of the brethren and sisters is, that they be sixty years of age, born at Guildford, or resident there for twenty years before, and unmarried : but it is provided by the statutes, that in case un- married persons be not found in Guildford to supply the vacancies, then some aged married man or woman may be elected, though not permitted to have a lodging in the hospital, but only to enjoy the weekly stipend as an out-brother or sister. The Archbishop of Canterbury is appointed visitor of the Hospital. To the brethren and sisters of the old foundation were, in 1785, added, by an order of the Court of Chancery, four more poor women, so that the number is now twelve of each, exclusive of the master. The funds of this institution have of late years received a considerable accession by the gift of 6001. from Tho- mas Jacknian, Gent, one of the magistrates of the corporation in 1785; and a bequest of 20001. Consolidated 3 per Cent. Bank Annuities, from Mrs. Jane More Molyneux, who died in 1802. The intention of the founder respecting the employment of young persons in some manufacture within the town of Guild- ford never took place, so that the rents appropriated by him to that object are applied to the general purposes of the establish- ment. This edifice is of brick, inclosing a quadrangular area 66 feet in breadth, and 63 in depth, having a noble tower-gate, with four turrets at its entrance. On the north side of the quadrangle is a small chapel, the north and east windows of which are adorned with painted glass, the former divided into four, and the latter into S SURREY. 265 five compartments, representing the same number of scenes from the history of the patriarch Jacob, with four Latin verses under each of them. They are also embellished with the royal arms, those of tlie founder, and other distinguished persons, properly Wazoned and illuminateJ. In three of the upper angles of the Gotliic work are angels, holding scrolls, with Latin inscriptions; and on other scrolls in several windows of the house are these words,. Jiaving a qiiaiiit reference to the name of the founder. Cla- mamus Abba, Pater. Against the north wall of tlie chapel hang a half-length of the archbishop ; an excellent portrait of Sir Nicho- las Kempe, by Paul Vansomer ; and Alderman Jackman, by J. Russell, R. A. In the south-east part of the quadrangle the nms- ter has handsome apartments ; his dining-room over the gate- way is adorned with a portrait of Archbishop Abbott, and those of WyclifFe, Fox, and other reformers. Many of the apartments are wainscotted witli carved oak ; and in one of them is preserved the old armchair used by the founder. In the record-room at the top of the spiral stair-case, which occupies one of the turrets, the Duke of Monmouth was confined in 1635, on his way from the west of England to London. The brethren are lodged in tlie west side of the quadrangle, and the sisters on the east ; and behind the edifice is a neat garden walled round and well planted. Mr. Russel, bookseller, the present master of this institution, has, with a laudable attention to its interests, laid out a large sum in repairs and improvements, and effected a considerable addition to the comforts and allowance of the inmates. The Free Grammar-school, built of brick and stone, stands in Trinity parish. The school itself, 65 feet in length, and 22 in breadth, was begun in 1557; the apartments of the upper and under master, and the library, being afterwards added to the original edifice. On the front of the building next to the street are the royal arms ; and underneatli, in capitals of gold : ScHOLA Regia Grammaticalis Edvardi Sexti, 1550. In 1691, Joseph Nettles, Gent, of this town, gave by will eleven SURREY. eleven acres of land in the parish of Stoke, in trust, towards the maintenance of a scholar at Oxford or Cambridge, being the son of a freeman of this corporation, and brought up at this school, to be enjoyed by him for seven years next after his ad- mission, with all arrears due at the time of his entering upon it for want of former claimants. The following eminent persons, among others, received the rudiments of their education at this school : — John Parkhurst, Bishop of Norwich; William Cotton, Bishop of Exeter; Henry Cotton and Robert Abbot, Bishops of Salisbury ; George Abbot, Archbishop of Canterbury; Sir Robert Parkhurst, who died lord-mayor of London in 1635, and Sir Maurice Abbot, brother of the two prelates, and lord-mayor of the same city in 1639. The Town-Hall, or Guildhall^ is spacious, with a turret on the top, and was erected in 1683, when the old market-house was taken down. Its length is 44 feet. In the north win- dow over the raayor^s chair are the Queen^s arms and those of the Corporation. On the sides of this room hang whole length pictures of James I. Charles 11. and James II. the two latter by Sir Peter Lely ; William III. and his Queen, and Vice-Admiral Sir Richard Onslow receiving the Dutch flag after the victory in 1797. The latter was painted by John Russell, R. A. a native of this town, and presented by his father, who several times served the office of mayor. The council-chamber up stairs at the south end of the hall is a lofty handsome room. The chim- ney-piece was brought from Stoughton in Stoke when that old family seat was taken down. It is adorned with figures carved in stone, and inscribed : Sanguineus, Cholericus, Phleg- MAT[cus, Melancholicus. This room, by permission of the corponition, is used by the bench of justices, who meet to transact the business of this division of the county. The Hall itself is used at the assizes. The other court was formerly held in a room taken out of the Three Tuns Inn ; at other times used for the wheat market, open to the street, and very inconvenient. In 1789 Lord Onslow and Lord Grantley purchased the Red 9 Lion SURREY. 267 Lion Inn, and on one pari of the ground built a room 40 feet by 30, and 20 feet high, in which the judges now sit, and which the corporation use for public dinners. Near this room a Theatre was built a few years since ; and here a strolling company occasionally performs. There was also a Cock-pit, which, in 1800, was converted into a market. house for butter, eggs, and poultry. The Gaol, situate near St. Mary's Church, was rebuilt of stone in 1765. The place of confinement for debtors used to be in the Town-hall, under the Council-chamber ; but a few years since a more commodious room, with a house for one of the Ser- jeants at mace, was built in the garden of the Town-hall. The Spital, or Hospital, is situated in that part of the parish of Stoke which adjoins to Guildford on the east, and in the angle formed ty the roads leading to Kingston and Epsom. It was dedicated to St. Thomas, and had a Prior or Master, of whom mention is made in the ancient court-rolls of the manor of Stoke, to the lord of which he paid, as the feoffees of the estate due to this day, a quit-rent of six-pence per annum ; but at what time, and by whom it was founded, is not known. The name of Prior is still given to the person occupying this house for the time being, who also formerly received a stipend of 141. per annum, which has been discontinued by an order of Session ; the house and garden, with the rents of some small parcels of the demesne, being deemed an equivalent. If Speed be not mistaken when he speaks of a house of Crutched Friars at this place,* (for he' is the only historian by whom it is mentioned,) it probably stood on this spot, and might afterv;ards dwindle inio an hospital, and be re-consecrated to St. Thomas. Contiguous to the Epsom road is still to be seen a small building, which is manifestly of consi- derable antiquity, and was probably a chapel. Spital-house has, in latter times, been appropriated to the reception of a cripple, ton the alternate recommendation of the town of Guildford and the county * Catalogue of Religious Howes in the reign of Henry III. 268 SURREY. county at large; but since 1698 it lias been usual to admit on a vacancy any person who is recommended to the feoffees by the magistrates of the corporatioji. At present also the Court Lect and Court Baron of the Manor of Poyle are annually held here.* This town has also a Charity School, at which twenty-five poor boys are instructed and clothed once a year; a Roman Catholic Chapel, and mcetinij-houses of the Baptists, Presby- terians, and Quakers. 'J'he Bridge of five arches over the Wey, built of stone, was some years since widened with brick, and the centre arch en- larged to allow barges to pass tlirough. In 1 775 the late Lord Grantley constructed a cold bath at a house near the bridge, for the convenience of the inhabitants, at which there is attendance every day. The town is supplied with water by means of an engine, which throws it into a reservoir at the foot of Poyle-hill, whence it is conveyed by pipes into the houses of the inhabitants. The pavement has heretofore been kept in good repair by an al- lowance of one penny on every load of timber, &c. carried on the navigation. In 1794 it amounted on 29,912 loads to 1241. 12s. 6d, An act has recently been obtained for repaving the whole with flag stones, and removing the projecting signs, and other nui- sances. By means of a turnpike-road to Horsham the town has lately procured a direct communication with Brighton and the coast of Sussex ; and a fund has been raised for the purpose of forming a junction between the river Wt-y at Guildford and the Arun, so as to establish a direct navigable line from the metro- polis to the sea at Little Hampton. These improvements, partly executed, and partly projected, sufficiently attest the increasing prosperity of this town and neighbourhood. About two miles eastward from the town is a fine circular course for Iiorse-races ; where a plate of one hundred guineas, given by William III, and three subscription plates, exclusively of muteiic?^ are run for in the Wiiitsun week. Guildford * Manning's Surrey, L p. 3i0. SURREY. 2G9 ) Guildford has given birth to several persons of eminence. At tlie head of these must be placed George Abbot, whose father, by trade a cloth-worker, and in low circumstances, lived at a house next to the bridge, afterwards an ale-house, known by the sign of the Three Mariners. Aubrey relates, that his mother, ■when pregnant with him, dreamt, that if she could have a jack or pike to eat, her child would rise to great distinction. Some time afterwards going to the river, which runs close by the house, for water, she took up a jack in her pail, and, in com- pliance with her dream, dressed and ate tlie tish Tliis circum- stance becoming known in the neighborhood, induced some peo- ple of quality to offer themselves as sponsors, an olfer which the poverty of the parents led them joyfully to accept. To this story a tradition, formerly current at Guildford, adds, that as George, and his elder brother, Robert, were playing on the bridge, some gentlemen passing by were struck with their appearance, and being informed that one of the boys' was the subject of this sii.gular dream, they put them to school at their own expense, afterwards sent them to the university, and thus laid the foundation of their future distinction. In 1599 he was installed Dean of Winchester ; in 1609 he was advanced to the see of Licliiield and Coventry ; thence removed to that of London ; and in the following year translated to the archbishopric of Canterbury. Though the cha- racter of this prelate is not absolutely clear from the charge of flattery, yet he had the courage to oppose the court on various occasions, particularly in the affair of the divorce of the Countess of Essex, and in regard to the king's declaration for permitting sports and pastimes on Sunday. In 1621 he was the innocent cause of a misfortune, which gave him great uneasiness during the rest of his life. Being at Bramshill park, the seat of Lord Zouch, he accidentally killed the game-keeper with an arrow, which he aimed at one of the deer. This misfortune tlirew him into a deep melancholy; and he not only kept a monthly fast ever afterwards on tiie day of the week on which it happened, but settled an annuity of twenty pounds on the keeper's widow. His SURREY. His enemies look advantage of this circiimstanee, alletlging that Ije was thereby incapacitated for performing the archiepiscopal functions ; but the result of a commission appointed by the king to enquire into the affair proved favorable to his Grace. Som« have asserted that he erected his hospital at Guildford as an atone- ment for his involuntary bloodshed ; but this is a gross misrepre- sentation, as the foundation of that edifice was laid two years before this accident happened. The archbishop died in 1633, and was interred, as we have seen, in his native town. This prelate was one of the divines engaged in the new translation of the Bible. He also wrote an Exposition of the prophet Jonah, a piece relating to Gowry's Conspiracy, a brief Description of the Whole World, and several other tracts. . Robert A.bbot, the elder brother of the preceding, was born in 1560, and educated with him at Baliol College, Oxford. On the accession of James I. he was appointed chaplain in ordinary to that prince, who was so highly pleased with his book De Aiitichristo, that he caused it to be printed with his own Com- mentary on the Revelation. In 1612 he was appointed regius professor of divinity at Oxford, where he so ably vindicated the king's supremacy against the popish writers, Bellarmine and Suarei, that James, in 1615, raised him to the see of Salisbury. This dignity he enjoyed but a short time, as he died in 1617, and was buried in his own cathedral. Maurice Abbot, a younger brother of the two prelates, was bred to trade, and received the honour of knighthood from Charles I. He became a Director of the East-India Company ; and in 1625 was chosen one of the representatives of the city of London, of which he was lord-mayor in 1638. He died in 1640. ' John Parkhurst was born in 1511 t)r 1512, and is said to Jiave been educated at the Free-school in this town*, after which he * Wood, however, in his Oxon, ]. 141, saj's, that he was educated in grammar learning at the school adjoining to Magdalen College Gate, Oxford, finder Mr, Thomas Kobertson. SURREY. 271 he removed to Merton College, Oxford. In 1548 he was pre- sented by Thomas Seymour, Lord Sudley, to the rectory of Cleeve in Gloucestershire; and in 1560 was' consecrated Bishop of Norwich.* The late eminent artist, John Russell, R. A. was also a na- tive of this town. He was the eldest son of Mr. Russel, bookseller, who served the office of mayor several times, and died father of the corporation, at the advanced age of ninety-five. His son hav- ing in early youth manifested a strong predilection for drawing, was placed under the tuition of the celebrated Francis Cotes, R. A. after whose death he enjoyed the reputation of being the first artist in crayon painting, in which he particularly excelled in the delineation of female beauty. In 1789 he was chosen a Royal Academician, and soon after appointed crayon-painter to the King, the Prince of Wales, and the Duke of York. Notwith- standing the constant professional employment which Mr. Rus- sel's extraordinary talents ensured him, he contrived to find time for other studies. His Selenographia, or model of the moon, which he began in 1785, occupied the whole of his leisure till 1797. At the time of his deatli he had finished two other draw- ings, which completed his plan, and which exhibit an elaborate view of the moon in a state of illumination. These were pub- lished about two years after his decease. The great utility of this masterly work to the sciences, connected with astronomy, has been acknowledged by those who are best able to appreciate its value. Mr. Russell died at Hull on the 20th of April, 1806^ in his sixty -first year, and was interred in the High Church of that town. On a hill in the parish of St. Nicholas, about a mile from Guildford, and close to the road lo Godalming, are the ruins of St. Katharine's Chapel, which seems to have been an elegant structure. Jiy whom it was erected is uncertain ; its foundation is, however, ascribed to King Henry II. who is said to have appropriated it as a place of worship for the tenants of his manor of * See Beauties, Vol. TX. Norfolk, p. 30. 572 SVRREY. of Ertindon, after he had detached it from Godalmin^, on grant- ing the latter to the church of Salisbury. Having become very ruiuous, it was rebuilt during the reign of Edward I. by Richard de Wauncey, parson of St. Nicholas in Guildford, who had pur- chased the site, with the intention of making it a chapel of ease to that benefice; but the transaction being found to be illegal, it reverted to the crown. At what time tliis chapel fell into disuse, and how long it has been in its present ruinous condition is not known. The length within the walls is forty-five feet and a half, the breadth twenty feet and a half, and the walls themselves are something less tlian three feet tliick. On each side were two small upright but- tresses, which terminated in pinnacles or finials rising above the roof ; in the intervals between these were the windows, three on each side, with a circular aperture over that in the middle of the south side. The principal window was at the east end; and there was another over the west door. Besides the west entrance, there were two smaller, one on each side ; and at the north-west angle a turret of a circular form within, and about five feet wide, wiiich probably served for a belfry, as well as the staircase lead- ing to the roof. The walls were of ordinary stone ; but the coins, finials, and pointed arclies of the doors and windows, for the most part of chalk. This ruin was some years since repaired by the late Robert Austen, Esq. of Shalford; but these repairs were designed principally co prevent the arches of the doors and win- dows from falling, not to render the edifice again serviceable. Richard de Wauncey, 2 Edward II. obtained a charter for a fair to be annually held here on the festival of St. Matthew, which is accordingly still observed on the 2d of October. In the same parish, about two miles south-west of Guildford, is Lotkesley, or Losely House. The manor, which was crown land in tlie time of Edward the Confessor, was held by one Osmond, and consisted of 400 acres. After the Conquest it was given to Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Arundel and Shrews- bury, SURRFY. 273 bury, "who attended the Conqueror in his expedition, and was one of his principal counsellors ; but towards the conclusion of his life became a monk in the priory of Shrews1)ury, which he had founded. It was purchased in 24 Henry VIII. by Christdpher More, Esq. who was sheriff of Surrey and Sussex, and died here in 1549. In his family it continued till it was carried by mar- riage into that of Molyneux, and is now the property of James More Molyneux, Esq. The house, which stands in the middle of a beautiful park, is large ; but, according lo Aubrey, was formerly much more spa- cious. It is of stone, and was built by Sir William More, Knt. between the years 1562 and 1568. The main body of the pre- sent mansion faces the north, and has an extensive wing on the west. On the east is the garden wall, of equal dimensions with the wing, and with corresponding projections and doors, but the latter are now filled up. The building is constructed of the ordi- nary stone found in the county. In the centre is a hall 42 feet long, and about 25 broad. The wing contains on the first floor a gallery 121 feet long, and 18 wide. This mansion is adorned with some good paintings, among wliich are the following por- traits, all whole lengths : Queen Anne Boleyn, by Holbein ; Sir Thomas More, the celebrated lord chancellor ; Sir William More, with a long white beard, and his lady ; Sir George, Sir Robert, and Sir Poynings More; Nathaniel, who married Miss Booth, and his lady; Sir Thomas Moiyneux, w^ho married one of the two co-heiresses of the Mores ; Elizabeth, her sister, who died unmarried ; Sir More Molyneux, his lady, and their eleven children, in one large piece in the hall. On the stairs leading to the gallery is a large allegorical picture, representing at one end the effects of an honorable and virtuous life; at the otlicr of vice and debauchery. At the bottom, in l4ie centre, is a cliaj ict drawn by two oxen ; the driver is an old man holding a crutch , one figure is standing upriglit in the chariot, with Death at his back, and a motto, Respice Jinem. In the gallery are whole Vol. XIV. T " lengths SURREY. leiigtlis of James I. and his queen, and a small three-quarters of Edward VI. dated 1549.* Loscley has several times })een honored with the presence of sovereigns. Queen Elizabeth was a frequent visitor; and in tiie gallery arc tw a gilt ucedle-work chairs, with cushions, worked hy that princess. | A neat consecrated cliapel was fitted up here by the late Mr. Strode, who some years since occupied this man> sion. At West Cl vndon, three miles from Guildford, is Clandon Place, a noble edifice, the seat of Earl Onslow. The manor was purchased of the Duncomb family in 1716, by the first Lord Onslow, whose son erected the present mansion in 1731, from the designs of Leoni. The hall, a cube of 40 feet, forms a magnifi- cent entrance. In tliis apartment are two elegant chimney-pieces by Rysbrack ; the one representing a sacrifice to Bacchus, and considered as that great sculptor's master-piece in basso-relievo ; and the other a sacrifice to Diana. The rooms are stately and canvenieut, and are adorned with some good pictures. Among these two of Barlow's best pieces, which were removed hither from Pirford, and hang in the saloon, deserve particular notice. Here is also a fine portrait of Sir Edward Onslow, by Cornelius Jansen ; another of Thomas de Woodstock, Duke of Gloucester ; and in the gallery on the attic story is a very curious painting of the old house, together with a bird's eye view of the whole pa- rish. The south-west front of this mansion commands a lively and extensive prospect. The ascent near the house overlooks the race-ground near Guildford ; and here a judicious taste has transformed what was once a chalk-pit into a rich sceue of pic- turesque beauty. Th*; brick slables, at a small distance from the mansion, v. ere built by the present lord from a design by Brown. They have J'le appearance of stone, and are seen to great advantage, surrounded by stately elms. The park is well wooded^ • Maiming and Bray's Surrey, Vol. 1. p. 98. 1 lliisseU's Guildford, 265. SURREY. 370 wooded, and plentifully stocked with deer; and the pleasure- grounds are neat and romantic. In the parish of East Clandon is Hatchland Park, which, about the middle of the last century, came into the possession of Admiral Boscawen, who died here in 1761. It is now the seat of Holme Sumner, Esq. one of the knights of the shire for this county. In the adjoining parish of West Horsley is the fine old mansion of Sutton, Esq. formerly belonging to the Raleigh family. The church, a small ancient structure, contains several old stalls and monuments. In the chapel, which is the burial- place belonging to the manor-liouse, is interred Carew Raleigh, Esq. son of Sir Walter. On digging a grave here next to his coffin, a human skull, without any other bones or covering, was found in a niche in the rock of chalk, only just large enough to contain it. This is supposed to have been that of Sir Walter Raleigh, whose son brought it to this place, and is said to have preserved it with the intention of having it buried with himself. At East Horsley, is Horsley Place, the seat of William Currie, Esq. a partner in the banking-house of Lefevre, Curries, Raikes, and Co. Cornhill, London. Ockham Park, in the parish of the same name, is the seat of Lord King, by wliose ancestor. Sir Peter King, Lord High Chancellor, and created Baron King of Ockham, this estate was purchased in 1711 of the Sutton family. The grounds have lately been much improved, the piece of water enlarged, and the whole adapted to the modern taste. William Ockham, a celebrated philosopher of the fourteenth century, was, according to Camden, a native of this place. He was a disciple of the famous Duns Scotus, whose principles, how- ever, he afterwards attacked. Having incurred the censure of the Pope by pleading for the poverty of the clergy, he renounced his allegiance to his Holiness, and being supported by the Em- peror Lewis of Bavaria, at whose court he was entertained, he T 2 asserted 276 SURREY. asserted the independence of all upon liim in temporals with such energy, that the pope, repenting of his rash proceedings, ab- solved him from excommunication, and gave him the title of the Lwincible Doctor. He died in 133Q, and was buried at Munich, in Bavaria, leaving behind him many polemical tracts, a few of which have been pubiislied. Jn the parish of Send, on a spot formerly called Aldbury, stood Newark Priory, also denominated News ted, or de Novo Loco. It was founded during the reign of Richard I. by Ruald de Calva, and Beatrix de Sandes, his wife, for Black or regular canons of the order of St. Augustine, and dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and St. Thomas of Canterbury. The estates with which this estabiibhment was endowed were confirmed to it by the charters of Henry III. and Edward I. and were estimated, at the Dissolution 26 Henry VIII. to be of the clear annual value of 2581, lis. lid. The last prior, Richard Lippiscomb, had a pen- sion of 401. per annum assigned him. In 153G the site of the monastery, and its possessions, were granted by Henry VIII. to Sir Anthony Brown ; whose descendant, Henry, Lord Viscount Montacute, sold the estate, about 1711, to Sir Richard Onslow, from whom it descended to Earl Onslow, the present proprietor. Part of the church is now all that remains of this edifice. The other buildings have, from time to time, been pulled down, for the sake of the stones, which were used to mend the roads. The whole would probably have been demolished, but for the inter- position of the father of the present owner, whose taste preserved this ancient monument of the piety of our forefathers. Send C/ove, hi this parish, is the seat of Serjeant Onslow. Ripley, a tithing in tiie parish of Send, is said to have been the birth-place of George Ripley, a famous alchymist and Car- melite friar of the fifteenth century. Bishop Tanner, however, informs us, that he was a native of Lincolnshire ; and his being a monl; of Boston renders this account the more probable. Fuller inak<:-s liim a Yorkshireman, and tells a wonderful story of his giving SURREY. 277 pvmg 100,0001. a year to the Kniglits of Rhodes, to enable tliem to curry on the war with the Turks.* At Stoke is the mansion and park, formed out of various new acquisitions by the late William Aldersey, Esq. Before his ^eath, in 1800, he sold a farm, called Bullen's Hill, to Richard Henry Budd, Esq. wlio has built a new house upon it. The remainder of his estate he devised to his wife, who, in 1801, disposed of it to Nathaniel Hillier, Esq. ; and it is now the pro- perty of the Hon. T. C. Onslow, third son of Lord Crauley, and M. P. for Guildford, who married his daughter. Stoughton was, in the seventeenth century, the residence of a family of the same name, of which Nicholas, was, in 1660-1, created a baronet ; but the title became extinct on the death of his son. Sir Laurence, without issue, in 1691-2. The mansion, called Stoughton Place, was situated on a delightful eminence in the middle of the manor. On the dispersion of the estate the house was pulled down ; and the site of it, being a plowed field of about six acres, with parts of the ancient moats remaining, is still known by the name of Stoughton Gardens. This spot was separated from the rest of the demesne lands, which, with the manor, were absorbed in that of Stoke. Woodbridge House, in Stoke, belongs to John Creuze, Esq. high sheriff of the county in 1 788. The Church, dedicated to St. John the Evangelist, is a plain building of ordinary stone, intermixed with flints, and consists of a nave, chancel, and north aisle. At the east end of the latter is Stoughton's Chapel, for the most part built of flints, and sepa- rated from the chancel bj two Gothic arches. At the west end is an embattled tower of large hewn stone, intermixed with small flints, and furnished with three bells. This church possesses a handsome organ, the gift of the late William Aldersey, Esq. In Stoughton^s Chapel are several long Latin monumental in> scriptions, chiefly on brass plates, for various individuals of the T3 family • GougVs Additions ti Camden. 278 SURREY. family of that name. The following lines on Sir Laurence Stoughton, Knt. deceased in his sixty-aecond year, in 1615 ; and Rose, his lady, who bore him seventeen children, and died in 1632, aged seventy-five, affords a good specimen of those plays upon words, in which that punning age lost no opportunity of indulging. Nomina naturae sunt symbola, sspcque Sortis Omnia ventura;, sit bona, sitve mala. Hinc tibi Laurenti, de Lauro nome* et omen ; Florida Laurus eras, vivida Laurus eras. Laurus eras prima PhcEbo sacrata juventa, Laurus eras pulchrae consociata Rosce. Quani bene convenlunt & in un^ sede morantur Stoughtonid Laurus florida, pulchra Rosa ! Pulchra Rosa et rara haec sine spin^, fertilis illa» Sic muita & carpta sic cito prole parens. Arboreas inter proles velut optima Laurus, Sic inter frutices optima pulclira Rosa. Suavis odor restat carptae Lauroq ; Rosxq ; Nulli no' parti gratus odorq ; manet. En hoc Laurentum dicas, dicasq ; Rosetum, Hie Rosa radices, hie quoq ; Laurus agit. On the north wall of the chancel is an inscription, in white marble, to the memory of the Right Hon. Jeremiah Dyson, who died in 1776, aged 54,* and, with several of his family, was inferred • Mr. Dvscn having been some time Clerk- Assistant of the House of Com- rnons, was appointed Principal Clerk in February 1747-8, in the roorc of Nicholas Hardinge, Esq. who had retired. In May, 1762, he was made joint Secretary to the Treasury, and Secretary to the first Lord ; and having resigned the Clerkship of the House of Commons in th>e month of August fol- lowing, was, in January 1763, elected a lepresentative for the borough of Calne. After this he u <;s s\iccessively appointed a Lord of Trade in 1764 ; a Jjord of the Treasury 1768 ; and Cofferer of the Household in 1774, which last office he held till his death. He purchased the manor of Stoke of Ni- cholas Turner, Esq. but it was again sold in 1780, by his son and heir, Jeremiah, to George Vaasittart, Esq. SURREY. 279 crtteiTcd here. In the same place is buried James Price, M. D. F. R. S. wlio (lied in 1783, aged 26 years.* By the side of the load leadinj,^ from Guildford to Stoke Church is a neat brick Hospital, erected for six Avidows, in 1796, by Mr. William Parson, formerly a draper of Guildford, and endowed with 37001. in the three per cent, consolidated annuities. The widows must be not less than sixty years of age, chosen out of Stoke; or, if such -cannot be found there, out of the adjoining parish of Worplesdon. T 4 Bagshot, • This gentleman had an independent fortune, was of Oriel College, Ox- ford, and took a Bachelor's degree in physic. In 1782 he published an account of some Experiraeuts on mercury, silver, and gold, made at Guild- ford in May 1782, in presence of many gentlenjen, to whom he appeals for the truth of his account, without the slightest fear of contradiction or dissent. It appears that mercury was thrown into a crucible, placed on a fire, and after other ingredients had been thrown in, a certain red powder, furnished by him, was added. The crucible, in due time, was cooled and broken, when a globule of yellow metal was found at the bottom, which proved to be pure gold. In other experiments a white powder produced silver : and in others the red powder transmuted this silver into gold. His experiments had Iiastily procured him the degree of M. D. at Oxford, and an introduction into the Royal Society : but having declined a repetition of his experimen's, or a discovery of his process, doubts of the reality were suggested. In the intro- duction to his account, he asks the candid and impartial by what arts of deceit mercury can be prevented from boiling in a red heat ; or, when actu- ally boiling and evaporating, it could be almost instantaneous ly^^rerf, by tlj« addition of a substance not above one 480th part of its weight. He also asks those who knew his situation, what could induce him to take such laborious and sinister methods of acquiring fame, possessed, as he was, of total inde- pendence, and of chemical reputation. He afterwards says, that " the whole of the materials producing the extraordinary change in the metal em- ployed was expended in forming the processes ; nor can the author furnish himself wiih a second portion, but by a process equally tedious and operose ; whose effects he has recently experienced to be injurious to his health, and fif which he must therefore avoid the repetition." This mode of answeiing enquiries was not satisfactory to the public j but an end was put lo thera by bis sudden dcatli in July the following year. Manning, I. 180. 280 SURREY. Bagshot, a viflage in the parish of Windlesham, ^as an- ciently the lordship of the kings of England, who had here a man- sion, with a park adjoining, to which James I. and Charles I. who were much addicted to the chace, often resorted to enjoy that diversion. It was disparked, however, during the civil commotions in the reign of the latter. Bagshot Park, westward of the village, was, some years since, the seat of the Earl of Albemarle ; since that of the Prince of Wales ; and afterwards of Earl Harcourt. It now belongs to his Highness the Duke of Gloucester. The house, in which there is nothing striking, stands in the centre of a park, upwards of three miles in circumference. The adjoining heath, which takes it name from the village, and is of very great extent, furnishes fuel for the neighbouring inha- bitants, and feeds an immense number of sheep and cows. The sheep are in general small, but remarkable for the sweetness and fine flavour of their mutton. Woking, situated on the Wey, about five miles below Guild- ford, though it gives name to the hundred, and had formerly a weekly market, is but a small and inconsiderable place. At the time of the Domesday survey, the lordship, v/hich is extensive, belonged to the royal demesne. The mansion was the occasional residence of Edward IV. Henry VII. and Henry VIII. At length James I. by his letters patent, included this manor in his grant to Sir Edward Zouch, as mentioned under the hundred of Wo- king, with whicli it has descended to Earl Onslow, the present proprietor. The ancient mansion stood on a branch of the river Wey, about a mile below the town. Great part of the foundations are still to be seen, being chiefly of a very fine brick ; but no part of the superstructure is left, except the walls of one single apartment, which is said, and not improbably, to have been a guard-room while the building was occupied by the crown, and occasionally used as a royal residence. The rest is supposed to have been taken down by some of the Zouch family, and the materials era- ployed SURREV. 281 ployed in building the farm-house contiguous to its ancient site, and which is still known by the name of the Park House. In the manor of Brookwood is a tenement called the Her- mitage, which Aubrey* speaks of as formerly belonging to the Convent of Grey Friars^ Guildford ; and adds, that part of the original house, built of stone and timber, remained in his time. It was included in the grant of James I. to Sir Edward Zouch. The last heir of that family bequeathed it to Mrs. Catharine Wood ; but it is now become, by purchase, the property and residence of Joseph White, Esq. solicitor to the Treasury. Hoe, or rather Hough Bridge Place, is situated on a rivulet, which, passing the town on the north, runs into the Wey a little below. The mansion, originally erected on this spot, and taken down by John Walter, Esq. consisted of two large courts, and is supposed to have been the work of Sir Edward Zouch, the prin- cipal mansion having then probably gone to decay. At this place Sir Edward is said to have frequently entertained James L on his excursions hither from the palace of Oatlands ; and a tradi- tion prevails in the neighbourhood, that the turret still remaining on the hill, a little to the northward of the house, was erected for the sole purpose of pointing out the way across the heaths, by means of a light placed in the top of it, to messengers, and others, who had occasion to repair hither to the king by night.f Contiguous to this house stood the present mansion, which was built by James Zouch, the last heir male of this family, at whose decease, in 1708, it descended to Sophia, his niece and heir at law, and was sold, in 1730, to John Walter, at that time lord of the manor. After passing through several hands, it was pur- chased, • Antiq. of Surrey, HI. 228. t Manning and Bray's Surrey, I. 129. Sir Aiilliony Weldon, in his Court and Character of King James J. is very Mivere upon Sir Edward. " Ti»e king/' says he, " after^supper, would conic forth to see pastimes and fooleries ; in which Sir Edward Zouch, Sir George Goring, at*d Sir John Finit, were the chief and master fools. Zouch's part was to sing bawdy songs and tell bawdy tale*;." &c. p. 84, 85. 282 SURREY. chased/in 1789, of the Hon. Captain (now Admiral,) Com- wallis, by Henry Grant, Esq. the present owner. On a rising ground, on the west side of the river, about three miles below Guildford to the north-east, and a mile from the London road, stands the mansion of Sutton Place, so called to distinguish it from Sutton House, formerly situated at a little distance from it, but now wholly demolished. It was built by Sir Richard Weston about the year 1530. The structure is of brick, finished with a double-sculptured plat-band of a yellowish brick running round the top ; with coins and window-cases of the same; and, according to the style and fashion of the time in which it was erected, it is a handsome edifice. The form •was quadrangular, encompassing an area eighty feet square ; the principal entrance being by a capital gate-way, having a lofty hexagonal turret at each angle, with coins of the yellow brick above-mentioned, alternately charged with R. W. and a Tun, being a quaint device for the name of the builder. This side of the quadrangle was taken down in 1784. The south-west side of this edifice is wholly occupied by a hall 50 feet long, 25 wide, and 31 high. The south-east front has a gallery in the first story, 141 feet in length, 20 in width, and 14 in height. Queen Elizabeth, in her way to Chichester in 1591, was entertained in this apartment, which, from the extraordinary quantity of fuel used on the occasion, or the neglect of the servants to see it pro- p( rly extinguished, took fire soon after her departure, when that side of the building was reduced to ashes. In this condition it remained till 1721, when the outer wall, which had tumbled down, was rebuilt, and the whole repaired by the late John Weston, Esq. Under the gallery, on the ground-floor, are four large and well-proportioned apartments, but which have never been fitted up for use. The present owner has made great im- provements both in the house and grounds.* The manor of Sutton was granted in 1521, by Henry VHI. to Sir Ricliard Weston, Knt. who, by subsequent letters patent, datcNi • Maiming aiid Bra j's Surrey, I. iG6. SURREY. 283 dated in the 22d year of the same reign, had licence to impark 600 acres of land and pasture, 50 acres of wood, and 400 acres of furze, in the parishes of Merrow and Clandon. In his family* it continued till the decease, in 1782, of Mrs. Melior Mary Weston, who devised this estate to John Webbe, Esq. of Sarnsfield Court, in the county of Hereford, on condition that he should assume the surname and arms of Weston. In the church of Woking is interred Sir Edward Zouch, Knl, Marshal of the Household to James I. and Charles I. ; and against the north wall of the chancel is a neat sarcophagus, in a white marble niche, to the memory of Edward Emily, M. A. preben- dary of Salisbury, vicar of Gillingham and Lavington, and Mas- ter of St. Nicholas' Hospital at Hariiham. The inscription in- forms us, that '* this monument was erected to the memory of the deceased by Shute Barrington, LL. D. successively Bishop of Salisbury and Durham, to whom, from a partial opinion, he be- queathed the whole of his fortune, and who trusts that he has not abused the confidence reposed in him.'^f Aubrey, on the information of the sexton, relates, that as long as there are any remains of a corpse, besides bones, in the church- yard • Of this family was Sir Richard Weston, to whom this county is indebted for the introduction of clover, and probably sainloln and turnips, as well as of locks for canals. It is probable, that he went into the Netherlands during the civil war ; but he appears to have returned before the termination of the contest. Aubrey says, that he introduced clover into England about 1645. His " Directions for the Improvement of Barren and Heathy Land," were published about 1650. In this work, addressed to his sons, the nature, uses, and mode of cultivating turnips, are very amply explained. Aubrey, Ilf. 229. dates his decease in idHS, " in his ctimaclerical year, 63." t " The fortune thus given to the Bishop was supposed to be considerable. This inscription, with one in the Hos;)ital of St. Nicholas above-mentioned, might countenance the report that there was implied trust, and that it was to be given to that charity ; but his Lordship says that no such intention was ever expressed by Mr. Emily to him. He has, however, given fOOOl. in the three per cent, stocks lo the poor there." Manning and Bray's Surrey, Vi»l. I. p. 140, note 9. m SURREY. yard of Woking, a kind of plant, about the thickness of a bull- rush, with a top like the head of asparagus, grows from it, and shoots up nearly to the surface of the earth, above which it never appears ; and that when the corpse is quite consumed the plant dies away. He adds, that the same observation has been made at Send, and in other church-yards, where the soil is a light red sand, as5 at Woking. The Hundred of Chertsey, or Godley, forms the north-west angle of the county. It is bounded on the east by the Thames and the hundred of Emley-bridge ; on the south by Woking ; on the west by the same hundred and part of Berkshire ; and on the north by that county and the Thames, which divides it from Middlesex. This hundred received the name of Godley, that is, God*s ley, or land, from being for the most part church land, and belonging to the Abbey of Chertsey. It still preserves this name in the county-books^ though popularly called after its principal town. It is in the deanery of Stoke,, and comprehends the parishes of Bisley, Byflefit, Chobham, Chertsey, Egham, Frimley, Mors- kill, Pirford, and Thorpe, Richard I. by his charter, granted this hundred, with its juris- dictions and privileges, to the abbot and convent of Ciiertsey, with exemptions from the authority of the sheriff^ or any other officer of the crown. In 7 and 8 Edward I. however, Almeric de Can- cellis, then sheriff, refused to allow the abbot to exercise his jurisdiction in the return of the writs ; and, on complaint being made, the king confirmed the privileges given in the former grant. In 9 Edward II. the abbot of Chertsey is said to have possessed two parts of this jurisdiction, and the a])bot of Westminster the remaining third. Agreeably to the ancient grant, the sheriff of the county has no authority within this hundred, but directs his writs to tiie bailiff of it, who is appointed for life by letters patent from the Exchequer. Chertsey, SURilEY. 286 Chertsry, the capital of this hundred, and the. only market-town within its limits, is situated on the banks of the Tliames, twenty-two miles south-west from London. In 1801 this town and parish contained 552 liouses, and 2819 inhabitants. The market, on Wednesdays, is well supplied : and there are four annual fairs ; on the first Monday in Lent, May 14, August 6, and Sept. 25, chiefly for horses and cattle. Chertsey is a place of considerable antiquity ; its Saxon name was Ceorteseye ; and Bede calls it Ceroti Insula, whence it is conjectured to have been in his time entirely surrounded by water. At this early period the town principally received consequence from an abbey for Benedictine monks, founded here in 666 by Frithwold, governor of Surrey under Wulphar, King of Mercia. This edifice, dedicated to St. Peter, was pillaged and destroyed by the invading Danes. It was soon afterwards rebuilt, in the tenth century, by King Edgar, who conferred on it various pri- vileges. The abbot is said by some writers to have had a seat in Parliament as one of the twenty-nine abbots and priors who held of the king per Baroniam ; but others assert that, though he was esteemed a baron, he did not sit in Parliament. " He was,^^ says Salmon, " a kind of little prince hereabouts, whose lands, and parcels of land, were as endless to enumerate, as it would be the possessors who have held them since the Dissolu- tion.'' In the church belonging to this foundation, the body of the unfortunate Henry VI. was first interi ed without any funeral pomp, and here remained till removed by Henry VII. to Wind- sior, and buried in a manner better suited to his rank. At the suppression, in 1538, the annual revenues of Chertsey abbey were estimated at 6591. according to Dugdale ; though Speed makes them amount to 7441. Of this once extensive edifice nothing is now loft but some small fragments of walls. On its site a handsome structure, called the Abbey House, was erected by Sir Nicholas Carew, master of the buck hounds to Cliarles II, which, says the Magna Britannia, use StJRREY. Britannia, was built out of the ruins of the great abbey, of which nothing then remained standing but some of the outer walk."* The Abbey House was taken down about two yoars ago ; but a barn which formed part of tlie offices, and is evidently composed of the stones of the ancient monastery, is still standing. The cliurch, dedicated to St. Ann, is handsome and spacious. The old structure, having become much decayed, was taken down about the year 1804, and substantially rebuilt, with the excep- tion of the chancel, in the Gothic style. The tower, which is square, contains six bells ; and the east window is adorned with some painted glass. The external appearance of the church is spoiled with whitewash. In the street leading to tlie south is situated Porch House, once the retirement of Cowley, the poet, and now the residence of Richard Clarke, Esq. Chamberlain of the City of London. Part of the old structure is carefully preserved ; but great im- provements have been made by the present proprietor, as well in the buildings as the grounds. The Charity School, was founded in ]726, by Sir William Perkins, for educating and clothing twenty-five poor boys, and the same number of girls ; and there are five alms-houses in the town, built and endowed by diflferent persons, which are under the management of the parish officers. Near the church, in the principal street, a handsome Market- house has recently been erected. Across the Thames from Cliertsey to the opposite shore at Littleton, is a noble Bridge of Purbeck stone, built at the joint expense of the counties of Surrey and Middlesex. It consists of seven arches; was begun by Mr. Brown, of Richmond, in 1783, and finished in 1785, from the designs of James Payne, Esq. of Says, near Chertsey. About a mile westward of Chertsey is St. Ann's Hill, of which Skrine, in his Rivers of Great Britain, gives tlie following de- scription : — St. Anne's Hill starts up abruptly on the south- west * Mag. Brit. V. 359. SURREY. 287 west of Cherlsey. The lower parts of it are clothed with wood, hut the ridge is almost level after it gets above the enclosures, presenting- a delightfully verdant walk to the neighbourhood, and terminating^ in two venerable elms, where the dLscent is almost perpendicular into the plain. The prospect here is more happily marked than at llairow, yet wonderfully extensive, except to- wards the south and west, where the bluff point of Cooper's llill excludes the view of Windsor ; and the bare ridges of Bagshot- heath circumscribe the horizon. On the east, the Surrey Down^ appear well ranged behind the nearer heathy ridge of St. George's hills ; and, with the eminences of Norwood, Sydenliam, and the more distant summit of Shooter's-hill, in Kent, together with those of Highgate, Hampstead, Bushy, and Harrow, in Middle- sex, form the outline of that immense plain, in which the dome of St. Paul's Cathedral, and the lofty pile of Westminster Abbey, enveloped in perpetual smoke, mark the proud position of the me- tropolis of England, surrounded by a numerous tribe of villages, and a most abundant population. The Thames here shews itself to great advantage, making a bold sweep to approach Chertsey- bridge, and intersecting the plain with its various meanders."^ On the south side of this hill is the seat of the late Right Hon. Charles James Fox, now the residence of his widow, the gardens and pleasure-grounds of which are laid out in such a style as does great credit to that eminent statesman. On the declivity of the same hill is Monk's Grove, a neat brick building belonging to Lord Montford. The garden seems to have been cut out of the hill at a great expense by some former proprietor, as it is secured from intruders on the south and west sides by a perpendicular preci- pice. In a grove above the garden is a ruinous building of brick and stone, the remains of a chapel or cell, erected there by the monks of Chertsey. Near it rises a spring, highly celebrated in former times for its virtues, which is received into a bason about twelve feet square, paved and lined with fine tiles. On a neighbouring hill is Lyne Grove, the residence of — RoSjJ*, * P, 555, 4. . 28$ SURREY, Ross, Esq. which commands extensive prospects. A large sheet of water on the west side of the house adds much to the beauties of this pleasant mansion. About a mile from Lyne Grove is Botleys, the seat of Sir Joseph Mawbey, Bart. It is an elegant stone mansion, situated in a park well stocked with timber and abounding in game. The principal front, which faces the west, is ornamented with a pedi- ment in the centre, and has a rustic basement ; and the grounds are adorned with a fine piece of artificial water, having a bath at the head of it. Wohurn Farm, about a mile southward of Chertsey, is the residence of Sir John St. Aubyn. It is a handsome brick edifice, the grounds of which were first planned and laid out by the late Philip Southcote, Esq. the inventor of the fertne ornee, whom Mason,, in liis English GardeUy thus apostrophizes : — On thee too, Soutlicote, shall the Muse bestow No vulgar praise ; for thou to humblest things Could'st give ennobling beauties : deck'd by thee. The simple farm eclips'd the garden's pride, E'vn as the virgin blush of innocence The harlotry of art. These grounds are agreeably refreshed by a serpentine canal, •which, after winding through them in a pleasing manner, termi- nates in the Wey at the distance of a mile. Ottershaw, not far from Woburn Farm, is a noble stone man- sion built by Sir Thomas Sewell, many years master of the rolls, and now the residence of James Bine, Esq. Egham is a large village situated near the Thames, in the uoi th-west corner of the county, consisting of one street nearly a mile in length, and, according to the enumeration of 1801, con- taining, with the parish, 363 houses, and 2190 inhabitants. This place has many respectable inns, and seems to be in a thriving state, the principal source of its prosperity being de- rived from its situation as a great thoroughfare from the metro- polis to the west iVid south of the kingdom. .9 The SURREY. 669 The Church, apparently of considerably antiquity, has exter- nally but a mean appearance. It is built of stone, with a modeiQ mixture of brick, and covered with white stucco. Among the most remarkable of its monuments are those of John de Ruther- wick, abbot of Chertsey, and of Sir John Denham, a baron of the Exchequer, (father of tlie poet of the same name,) wlio, with his two wives, is interred at tlie east end of the chancel. That learned judge resided at the parsonage in this town ; and founded an alms-house here for five poor women. On the north side of the street is a range of Alms-houses, founded in 1706 i»y Mr. Henry Strode, merchant, of London, for six men and six women, who must be sixty years of age, and have been parishioners of Egham twenty years without receiving any parochial relief. The centre of this buildiiig, which exhibits an appearance of neatness and comfort that reflects much credit on the trustees of the charity, is a good house for a schoolmaster, who has a salary of forty pounds per annum, besides an allowance for an assistant, for the education of twenty poor boys of Eg- ham. Northward of Egham, between the town and the Thames, is Runnymead, which will ever be celebrated in the history of this country as the spot where the assembled barons, in 1215, com- pelled King John, who had in vain res-orted to the most criminal prevarications, to grant what is emphatically denominated Magna Charta, the great charter of the liberties of Britons. Here his consent was extorted ; but the treaty is said to have been actu- ally signed on an island in the Thames still called Charter Island, and included in the parish of Wraysbury, Buckini;hamshire. In memory of this foundation of the glorious fabric of British free- dom, a plan, patronized by some of the most distinguished politi- cal characters, was a few years since proposed for the erection of a pillar in this celebrated mead; but for some reason or other it has been relinquished by the projectors. This sppt is said to have received its present appellation of Runnymead, or more properly, Vol. XIV. V Running- - 290 . SURREY. Ronningmead, from the horse-races annually held here oh the 4th of September, and the two following days. Cooper's Hill, sung by Denham, is situated to the west of Egham. On this hill is Kingswood Lodge, the elegant seat of Flounder, Esq. Near the house a late proprietor has placed a seat, which tlie votaries of the Muses will regard with veneration, as it is the very spot wlience Sir John Denham took his view of the rich and varied scenery which he has so hap- pily described in his celebrated poem.* At * An ingenious, but perhaps fastidious critic, has observed, that Cooper's Hill, the professed subject of this piece, is not mentioned by name; neither is any account given of its situation, produce, or history ; but that it serves like the stand of a telescope, merely as a convenience for viewing other objects. Dr. Johnson, a critic much too rigid to bow to popular opinion, has judged more favorably, we might 533% more justly, of the merits of this perform- •nee : — Cooper's Hill," sa^s he, " is the work that confers upon Denham the i-ank and dignity of an original author.^ He seems to have been, at least among us, the author of a species of composition that may be termed local poetry, of which the fundamental subject is some particular landscape, to be poetically described, with the addition of such embellishments as may be supplied by historical retrospection, or incidental meditation. To trace a new species of poetry has in itself a very high claim to praise ; and its praise is yet more, when it is apparently copied by Garth and Pope. Yet Cooper's Hill, if it be maliciously inspected, will not bt found without its faults. The digressions are too long, the morality loo frequent, and the sentiments some- times such as will not bear a rigorous enquiry." — Praise thus extorted from a critic not unrekictant to censure, will contribute to secure the fame of Den- ham, which the charming eulogy of the bard of Windsor Forest would alor.c 'have rendered immortal Bear me, oh ! bear me, to sequester'd scenes To bowery mazes and surrounding greens; To Thauics's bank, which fragrant breezes fill^ Or v/here the Muses sport on Cooper's Hill. (On Cooper's Hill eternal wreaths shall grow, While lasts the mountain or while Thames shall flow.) I seem SURREY. 291 At PiRFORD was a mansion-house built by Sir John Wollny, to whom the manor was granted by Queen Elizabeth. At thia place, while in the possession of his son. Sir Francis Wolley, the celebrated Dr. John Donne for many years spent the greatest part of his time.* It was afterwards the residence of Sir Robert U 2 Parkhurst, I seem through consecrated walks to rove, I hear soft music die along the grove : Led by the sound I rove Ijwm shade to shade. By godlike poets venerable made ; Here his first lays majestic Denham sung ; There the last numbers flow'd from Cowley's tongue. • The Doctor, in the early part of his life, before he took orders, was secretary to the Lord Chancellor Egerton, and continued in that employment five years. Sir George More's daughter lived in the family of tlie Lord Chancellor, and was niice to his lady. Sir George having some intimation of the mutual passion of his daugliter and Mr Donne, removed her in all haste from the Chancellor's to his own house at Loseley ; and the friends on both sides endeavoured to extinguish their affection for each other, but to no purpose ; for, having exchanged the most faithful promises, they found means to have their marriage privately consummated. The affair was broken in the softest manner to Sir George by his fiieiid and neighbor the Earl of Nor- thumberland But Sir George was so transported witii anger, that he pre- vailed upon his sister, the Lord Chancellor's lady, to join with him in requir- ing Donne's dismission, and won'd not be satisfied till his suit was granted. The Chancellor, on dismissing him, declared, that " He parted with a friend, and such u secretary as was fitter to serve a king than a subject." Sir George's anger was not satisfied till Mr. Donne, with Mr. Samuel Brooke who married him, and his brother, Mr. Christopher Brooke, who gave the lady in marriage, were all committed to three several prisons. Donne, who was first enlarged, never rested, till, by his solicitations and interest, he pro- cured the liberty of his friends. He was afterwards put to the trouble of a long and expensive law-suit to recover his wife, who was forcibly detained. At length time and his extraordinary merit and engaging behaviour so far wrought upon Sir George, that he was prevailed upon to use his interest with the Chancellor that his son-in-law might be restored to his post ; but his request was refused, the Chancellor returning for answer, that though he was «nfeignedly sorry for wliaL he had done, yet it was incoftsisteot with his plast 292 SURREY. Parkhurst, his son and gfrandson, and then came into the pos« session of Denzil Onslow, Esq. There was also a park well wooded and stocked with deer ; but after the estate became united with that of Lord Onslow, the house was pulled down, and the park turned into farms. A gateway, with I. W. the initials of the builder, and some of the garden walls, yet remain. An avenue of elms and birches a quarter of a mile long, and in Au- brey's time more than twice that length, led to the gateway. The decoy mentioned by Aubrey was suffered to go to decay; but being purchased with other property of Lord Onslow by the late Lord King, he restored it to its former state, and it is now kept up. place and credit to discharge and re-admit servants at the request of pas- sionate petitioners." As for Sir George, he was so far reconciled to Mr. Donne and his wife, as not to deny them his paternal blessing ; but would contribute nothing towards their support, though they had great need of it, Mr. Donne's fortune being much diminished by the expense of his travelf, books, law-suit, and the generosity of his temper. The wants of his family were, however, in some measnre supplied by the seasonable bounty of their kinsman. Sir Francis Wolley, who entertained them till his death, athishou9« at Pirford, where several of his children were born. Sir Francis, a little be- fore his death, brought about a reconciliation between Mr. Donne and his father-in-law. Sir George, obliging himself to pay Mr. Donne on a certain day 8001. as a portion with his wife, or 201. quarterly for their mainte- nance, till that portion was paid. On the death of Sir Francis in 1610 h« took a house for his family at Mitcham in this county. — (Walton's Life of Donne— Biog. Brit. V. 332.) AUST LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL BOOKS, MAPS, AND VIEWS, THAT HAVE BEEN PUBLISHED IN Illustration of the Topography, Antiquities, ^c, of the COUNTY OF SURREY. Towards the middle of the seventeenth century. Sir Edward Bysshe, a native of Surrey, announced his intention ot publishing a Survey, or History of this County. It is certain that he made some collections for the purpose as some fragments of them are in- terspersed in his notes on Upton De studio militari, Lond. 1654. fol. ; but the office of Garter King at Arms, to which the Parlia- ment appointed him in 1645, though five years before, he, with other members, had voted it illegal, diverted him from the prosecution of his design. The plan of a History of Surrey was, however, resumed before the death of Sir Edward Bysshe by Aubrey, who was furnished with a requisition to all justices, mayors, and other officers in general, to as- sist him in making an actual survey of the county, and to give him free access to all such public registers and other books as might pro- mote the geographical and historical description of the kingdom, which Ogiiby was authorized by the royal warrant to prepare. Au- brey accordingly perambulated the whole county, and his labours were revised, corrected, and published by Dr. Rawlinson, under the title of: ** The Natural History and Antiquities of the County of Surrey, begun in the year 1673, by John Aubrey, Esq. F. R. S. and continued to the present time. Illustrated with proper sculptures, Lond. 1719." 5 vols. 8vo. A second edition appeared in 1723, brought down to that time, by Dr. Rawlinson. A few years afterwards appeared the " Antiquities of Surrey, col- lected from the most ancient Records, with some Account of the pre- sent State and Natural History of that County. By N. Salmon, LL. B. Lond. 1736." 8vo. Such were the only publications that had appeared resj>ecting this district in general, when the late Rev. Mr. Manning began to form collections for a work which should truly deserve the name of a County History. On this undertaking, for which he was eminently qualified by his critical skill in the Saxon language, and his general ' learning, he bestowed unwearied attention for thirty years, till the loss U 3 of 594 IIST OF BOOKS, &C. of siglit suspenrled, and death put a final period to, his labour?. He ha^ formed a plan differing in one respect from that of any preceding writer on the subject. He began with the Ttrra Regis in Domes- day ; and after illustrating it by a commentary, he intended to deduce the history of those particular estates to modern times. He had him- self drawn a map of all the places in the County mentioned in tiiat venerable record, (which is given in the first volume,) and had caused to be engraved on copper a/«c simile oi tlie whole of it which relates to this county ; he had written an introduction ; He had drawn up and transcribed nearly all this jjart. For the rest of the county he had made large collections ; but the«e were left merely in the form of notes, with the exception of a very few parishes, which he had begun to digest. In this situation were his papers at the time of his death, when an application was made to the late Mr. Gough to superintend the publication, but declined by him. Under tht^se circumstances the task was undertaken by William Bray, Esq. a gentleman particu- larly well qualified for the task, from having attended from an early part of life to the history ot his native soil, and the opportunities which he possessed of giving considerable information, as well from his own collections as from the British Museum, and who has per- sonally visited nearly all the churches in the county. Under his superintendence the first and second volumes have appeared, under the title of The History and Antiquities of the County of Surrey, compiled from the best and most authentic Historians, valuable Re- cords and Manuscripts in the Public Ojjices and Libraries, and in Private Plands. tVith a fac simile copy of Domesday, engraved on thirteen plates. By the late Rev. Oiveii Manning, S. T. B. rector of Peperharroiv, and vicar of Godalming in that County. Continued to the Present Time. By William Bray of Shire, Esq. Pelloiu and Treasurer of the Society of Antiquaries of London. VoL L 1804. VoL //. ISOy." folio. These volumes are Illustrated with numerous views and plans ; and the third, which will complete the work, is expected to appear early in 1813. " General Vieiv of the Agriculture qj' the County of Surrey. Drazvn up for the Board of Agriculture, and Internal Improve- ment. By William Stsvenson, 1809." 8vo. With a map shewing the different soils of the county. " A Report on the State of the Heaths, Commons, and Common Fields," 4to. was drawn up by Mr. James Malcolm in 1794, by desire of the Board of Agriculture. The same writer has published " A Compendium of Modern Husbandry, principally zuritten dur- ing a Survey of the County of Surrey, made at the desire of the Board of Agriculture. By James Malcolm. Lond. ISO j." In 3 vols. 8vo. Skrine, in his Account of the Rivers of Great Britain, lias intro- duced descriptions of some of the most prominent scenes in this county. A pretty copious account of sucli of the parishes of Surrey as lie in the immediate vicinity of the metropolis will be found in ** The En- *iirons qf London, being an Historical Account of the Towns, Fil- LIST OF BOOKS, &C. 295 la^es, and Hamlets, xvitliin Tivelve Miles of that Capital: interspersrd iL'iik Biographical Anecdotes. By the Rcc. Daniel J.ysons, yi. M. F. R. S. F. a. A. and Z. .S'. Rector of Rodmarton in Gloucesierskire, Second Edition, Load. 1811." 4to. Of this Edition the Surrey parishes occupy the whole first part of the first volume, and a portion of the Appendix subjoined to the se- cond part. " The History of Guildford, the Connty-tozin of Surrey. Con- taining its Ancient and Present State, Civil and Ecclesiastical ; col- lected from Public Records and other Authorities. H'lih sojne Ac- count of the Country three miles round. Guildford, 1801.*' 8vo. For this History the public is indebted to Mr. Kusscl, bookseller, and a native of Guildford. A considerable part of the second volume of the Bihliotheca To- pographica Britannica is devoted to the illustration of the History of Lambeth and Croydon, and contains the four following tracts : " The History and Antiquities of the Archiepiscopal Palace of Lambeth from its foundation to the present time. By Dr. Ducaret. F. R. and A. S. S. Lond. 1783." 4to. with 10 plates. *' The History and Antiquities of the Parish of Lambeth, in the County of Surrey, including Biographical Anecdotes of several emi- nent persons, compiled from Original Records, and other Authentic Sources of Information. Lond. 1786." 4to. with 19 plates. " Some account of the Town, Church, and yJrchiepiscopal Palace, of Croydon, in the County of Surreif,from its Foundation to the year 1783. By Dr. Ducarel, F. R. and A. S. S. Lond. 1783.*' 4to. with 10 plates. " The Case of the Inhabitants of Croydon, 1673, zvith an Appendix to the History of that Town. A List of the Manorial Houses which formerly belonged to the See of Canterbury. A Description of Trinity Hospital, Guildford; and of ALhury House; with Brief Notes on Battersea, Chelsham, Nutfield, and Tatsfield, in the County of Surrey. Lond. 1787." 4to. with views of Trinity Hospital, Guildford, Ald- bary House, Nutfield, and Tatsfield Churches, and a Map of the County. The fifth number of Miscellaneous Antiquities published in con- tinuation of the Bib. Top. Brit, contains: '* Historical Particulars of Lambeth Parish and Lambeth Palace, in Addition to the Histories by Dr. Ducarel in the Bibliothcca Topographica Britannica. By the Rev. Samuel Denne, M. A. F.S. A. Vicar of lyUmington and Darenth, Kent, 1793." 4to. *• The History and Antiquities of the Parish of St. Saviour^s, Soutlrwurk, illustrattd ivith Plates. By M. Concanen, jun. and A. Morgan, 1795." 8vo. ** The Rarities of Richmond : being Exact Descriptions of the Her- mitage and Merlin'' s Cave in the Gardens there. Lond. 1735." 8vo. with his Life and Prophecies, 8vo. ** Two Historical Accounts of the making New Forest in Hamp* U 4 shire. LR-r OF BOOKS, &C. shire, hy William the Conqueror ^ and Richmond New Park in Surrey, by King Charles I," honbability to have been intended for the Lodge in the old Park, with which it s u ffi c rent 1 y cor r esp o n da. t 4. An TIST €F PCCKS, ZiV. 4. An nncieht Paintlngby Vinkeboom, in the possession of Lord Vis- count Fitzwilliam, being a view of the palace Uiken from the meadow on the other side of the Vater, with morrice-dancers in masquerade in the fore-ground on the river-side; which was engraved in 1774 by K. B. Godfrey. 5. A View by Benning in Grove's I, six miles distant from London, the mansion-house belonging to the Right Hon. Thomas Earl of Danby, Lord High Treasurer of England, and Knight of the most hnnourable order of the Garter 1678 ; to whose lordship this plate is dedicated by his honor's most humble servant Henry Winstanley, at Littkbury, in Essex, fecit." 7'he other, representing the garden front, is thus inscribed ; " Wim- bledon as it is seen from the great walk of trees in the principal garden, with a side prospect of that part which is towards the orange-g;nden ; and with a view of the orange-garden and orange-house. Henry V/inslanley, at Littlebury, in Essex, fecit." In Sebastian Braun's work, intituled, " Civitates Orbis Terrarum, there is an engraving of Nonsuch Palace, which has been copied by Lysons. Over it is this inscription : " Palalium Regium in Angliae Regno, appellatum Nonciutz ; hoc est, nusquam simile." And un- derneath : Efilgiavit Georgius Hoefnaglius, Anno 1582." 1 here is also a small engraving of it in the corner of Speed's Map of Surrey. Of Itoehampton House there are two plates in the Vitruvius Britan- nicus, Vol. 1. p. 80, 81. A View of the Earl of Besborough's house at Roehampton, is given in the same work, IV. p. 1 1—13 ; also a View of H'imbledon House, alter a design of the Earl of Pembroke, V. 21, 22. It was this build- ing that was burned down in 1785, In 300 LIST OP BOOKS, &C. In Leoni's edition of Alberti's Architecture, are eleven engravings of the plans and elevations of the intended mansion of James Scawen, Esq. of Carshalton Park. A View of the ancient Castle of Reigate, and a plan of its site is fiven in Watson's " Memoirs of the Earls of Warren and Surrey," . 28, 29. The Chapel of St. Mary at Kingston was engraved at the expense of the late Nicholas Hardinge, Esq. M. P. and is copied in Man- ning's Surrey. Grose, in his Antiquities, Vol. V. has given the following Views in this county : Catharine Hill, near Guildford, Croydon Church ; Croydon Palace; Farnham Castle, two views: Guildford Castle; Ancient Crypt in Guildford ; Martha's Hill Chapel, near Guildford ; Mother Ludham's Hole, in Moor Park ; Newark Priory ; Waver- ly Abbey, two views. In the Antiquarian and Topographical Cabinet, No. 20, are en- gravings and descriptions of Loseley Manor House; Guildford; Keep of Guildford Castle; Interior of the Keep; St. Martha's Chapel and St. Catharine's Chapel. In No. 25, Reigate Castle. In No. 38, the Gateway belonging to the Monastery of St. Mary Overey, Souihwark ; and in No. 39, Beddington Church and Manor House, and the Font in Beddington Church. In the Antiquarian Repertory, Vol. I. are given representations of some rude figures scratched on the chalk-wall of Guildford Castle and a view of Godahning, The European Magazine contains the following views illustrative of the topography of Surrey: Vol. X. Knight's Hill Farm; XI. Albion Mills; XII. Wandsworth Height; XIII. Dr. Lettsom's House, Camberwell ; XV; Addiscomb House ; XVII. Kew Bridge; XX. Dulwich College; XXII. Woodmanston Church; XXVII. Wobiirn Farm ; XXXV. Egham Church and Grotto at Oatlands ; XL. Fieemason's Charity School, George's Fields; and New- ington Church ; XLI. Coade's Gallery, Lambeth ; XLIII. Foun- tain at Dr. Lettsom's, Camberwell, and the late Mr. Sewell's Villa at Battersea; XLV. Battersea Rise ; XLVII. Camberwell Church. INDEX INDEX TO THE COUNTY OF SURREY. A. IlBBOT, Archbishop, bis monu- ment, 260; hospital founded by him, 263; account of him, 269. Maurice, 270. , Robert, ib. Addinston, remarkable tenure, 129. . Place, 130. Addiscorabe House, near Croydon, 128. Aldburv, remains of a Roman tem- ple, 222 ; the church, 224. Place, 222. Allen, William, his monument, 69. Alleyne, Edward, account of him, ^9, note. _ J J , Angell, John, Esq. hi3 intended col- lege, 95. Apse Court, 2l2. Ashley Park, 213. Ashmole, Elias, his tomb, 83. Ashted Park, 174. Astle, Thomas, account of him, 97. Audley, Lord, his monument, 229. B. Bagshot, 280. ' Park, ib. Baltimore, Lord, anecdotes of him 170. T t. u Banks, lliomas, a native of Lambeth, 91. Bansted Downs, 175. Barber, Alderman, account of 107, Barkley, Alexander, 126. Barnard, Sir John, 107. Barnes, Mr. his researchefl on Waltoa heath, 180. Basingstoke Canal, 25- Bate, Dr. George, account of hitn, 189, note. . Battersea church, 96 ; Bolingbrokc- house, 97 ; Sherwood-lodge, bndge, 98. Battie, Dr. William, account of nim, 189 note. Beddington, ancient remains found there. 130 : the church, 132. Park, 130. Beech worth. East, 150. West, 159 Benbow, Admiral, a natire of Ro- therhithe, 76. Benn, Sir Anthony, 198. Bermondsey, its situation, 70 ; prio- ry, church, 71 ; free- school, ^cha- nty-school, Bermondsey spa, 73. Bird, Edward, Esq. his monument and account of him, 148. Blackheath, hundred of, 221. Blechingley, representation, 136 ; the manor, the castle, the cliurch. 137 free-school, alms-houses, 140. Place. 140. Bludder, Sir Thomas, 148. Bolingbroke, Viscount, bis monu- ment, 96 ; a native of Battersea, 99. Rookham INDEX. Bookham, Great, 175. Grove, ib. Botleys, 288. Bouraeois, Sir Francis, his bequest to Dulvvich College, 102. Box hill, 159, 179, 180. Bray, William, Esq. 228. Breretnn, Sir William, 124. Brooklands, 220. Brixton, hundred, 42. Bronncker, Viscount, 202. Bulkeley, Sir Richard, liis monument and account of him, 168. Burhill, 213. Burrough, Great, in Bansted, 17.5. ■ Little, ib. Burrow, Sir James, 142, 143. Burstow, 150, Bur wood Piirk, 212. Bury Hill, 162. Busbridge Park, 237. Bysshe, Sir Edward, account of him, 160. Court, 141. c. Camberwell, 98. .Carew, Sir Francis, his fruit trees, 130; bis monument, i33. Carshalton church, 134. — -r — park, ib. Cartwright, William, his bequests to . Dulwich CoUtge, 102. Chalk- pits, 12. Chert park, 160. Chertsey, hundred of, 284. lown of, its abbey, 285 ; church, charity-school, bridge, 286 Cholmondeley, Miss, her accideulal death, 174. Clandou House, 274. Clapham, common, church, 103. Claremont, 2;;7. Clayton, Sir Robert, his monument and inscription, 138 j account of him, 139, note. Cleave, VVilliam, Esq. alms-house founded by him, 186 ; his monu- ment, 189. Cleveland, Duchess of, account of her, l78, note. Cobhani, 206. ■ park, ib. priory, 209. Go!lins,Ariliur,biiried at Battersea,97. Coke, Sir Robert, 171. Cooke, Thomas, account of him, 84. Coombe House, near Croydon, 128. Cooper's Hill, 290. Coptliorn and Effingham, hundred of, 167. Corbet, Bishop, account of hira, 169. Cornish, Admiral, 240, Covvay Stakes, 210. Cranley, 224. Thomas dc, account of him, 226. Cromwell, Earl of Essex, a native of Putney, 1 12. Croydon canal, 25. hundred of, 122. its history, the palace, 123 ; the church, 12.^; Whitgifi's hospi- tal, 126 ; alm.«-houses, the town- hall, navigable canal, iron rail- road, 127. Cuddincrton, 176. Cuilis, William, 97. D. Dee, Dr. John, 107. J^e la Motte, Countess, anecdote of her, 84. Denbigh's, 161. Denham, Sir John, remarks on his Cooper's Hill, 290. Dipden, 160. Donne, Dr. account of liim, 291. note. Dorchester, Countess of, anecdotes of hir, 219, note. Dorking, hundred of, 155. lovvncss of its situation, mar- kets, ib. ; breed of fowls, history of the miuior, 156 ; the church, the Stane-street, 157 ; Sonde-place. Sondes Court Lodge, Shrub Hill 159. Ducarel, Dr. 96. Dudley, Sir Robert, account of him, 205. Dulwich, 99; College, 100. Durdans, near Epsom, l7l. Dyson, Riglit Hon. Jeremiah, account of hiiu, 276, note. E. Eashing, 237. Eastwick House, 175. Egham, situation, 288 ; church, alms- houses, 289. Elizabeth, Queen, anecdote of her, 8l> note. Ember INDEX. Em'ber Conrt, ?06. Emily, lltv. Edward, his monument, 2H3. Emk'v Bridge, hundred of, ^206. Epsom, history ol" its waters, 169; the church, 171 ; alius-house and cha- rity-school, 172. Ksher, '■107. park, €08. Evelyn, John, Esq. account of him, 164. ^ Ewell, formerly a market-town, 167 ; the church, 1 6d ; eminent native, 169. Ewood, new mansion erecting near it by tlie Duke ot Norfolk, 164. F Fane, Hon. Anthony, 189, Farnham, hundred of, 241. town ot, situation, 241 ; hop- grounds, '. Grove Hill, the residence of Dr. Lett- soiu, 98. Guildford, situation, 257 ; ancient history, 252; remarkable tenures, 254 : the castle, 2o5 ; Friary, 258; Trinity church, 259 ; St. Mary's, St. N icholas's, 26 ; Abbot's Hos- pital, 263; free grammar-school, 265; town-hall, 266; theatre, gaol, spital, 267; charity-school, chapels, bridge, bath, recent improvements, race-course, 268 ; eminent natives, 269—271. Guy, Thomas, account of him, 49, note, H. Haling House, near Croydon, 128. Hamilton, Elizabeth, remarkable in- scription on her tomb, 115. Ham House, Petersham, 191. Wey bridge, 219. Hanstie Bury, an ancient encamp- ment, 162. Hartley, David, his rnventiou for pre- serving buildings from lire, 112. Hascomb, 226. Hasiemere, situation, markets, 238; representation, chapel, alms-house, 289. Hatchland Park, 275. Heron, Nicholas, Esq. his monument, 136. flersham, 212. High House, 228. Holbourne, Admiral, 203. Hoimbury, an ancient encampment, 166. Hopson, Admiral Sir Thomas, 220. Horsley, Bishop, epitaph on himself and his wife, 68 j account of him, 69, note. Horsley, INDEX. Horsley, East, 275. — West, ib. Hortoa Park, »71. Hough Bridge Place, S8t. Hourne, 141. Hull, Ric lard, £sq. account of liim, 165, 166. J. James II. anecdote of his queen. JessoiVs Well, -ilO. JoliifFe, William, Esq. 164. note. K. Kennington, ancient palace there, OS. Kew, new paliice erecting there by his iVlftjesty, pleasure-grounds, 190; the botanic garden, 19 1. Keyse, Thomas, his exhibitions, 73. Kingston, hundred of, ISl. Kingston, i«>wn of, its situation, an- tiquities discovered tliere, ib. ; re- niarkab'e events, 182 ; corporation, rej-reseistHt.oii, markets, 184: the town b;i.U, the hr fige, Norheton- hall, IB.i; Nor' rto.i Place, alms- house, aiu ient chape!, 18(> ; the free graiumar- school, the church, 187 ; the condiii , 190. Kingswood Lodge, 29', i06. Place, 106. Mickiehdin, 179. Mineral Waters, 10. Minerals, ib, Mitcham Grove, 135. Mole, river, its course, 7; peculiarity for which it is remarkable, 8. Monk's vjrove, -287. a Paik, 246. vioore, Edward, account of him, 84. M<.rMon Hall, 107. Park, 106. Aloore, Dr. Jolin, 203. iMorland, Sir Samuel, Ins mechanical cuutrivauces, 92. note. Mortlake INDEX. Morllake cliurch, 107 ; lapeslry ma- nufactory, 108. Mulgravc; Lord, his monument, 126. N. Netley House, 228. Newark Priory, 276. Ncwdigate, IM. Nevvington Butts, its situation, 67, cliurch, 68 ; the House of God, Charity School, Drapers' Alms- houses, 70. Newland, Abraham, Esq. his monu- ment, 53. Nonsuch Palace, 176. , Norbury Park, 179. Nork, the seat of Lord Arden, 1 75. Norwood, 128. Nottingham, Earl of, lord high ad- miral, inscription on his coflin, 148, Noviomagus, phiced by some antiqua- ries at Croydon, Nutfield, its fuller's earth, Roman coins found tliere, ]54'j the church, 155. O. Oaks, the, a seat of the Earl of Der- by, 135. Oatlands, i2l7. Ockham Park, '275. William, account of him, ib. Ockley, defeat of the Danes at that place-pleasing custom, 16.>. Onslow, Rt. Hon. Arthur, his monu> ment, 261. Ottershaw, 2B8. Oughtred, Williara, 224. " P. Pains Hill, 213. • Parkhurst, Bishop, 12J7(). • Charles, his whimsical epi- taph, 17J. ■ ' Rev. John, his monumeht, 171. ■ Sir Robert, his monument, 260. Peperharrow, 2S9. Perne,Dr. Andrew, anecdote ot him, 85 note. Petcrshau), 191. Lodge, 193. Pirford, 291. Vol. XIV. Polesdon^ 176. Price, Dr. James, account of bis ex- peri menis, 279 note. Purley, 135. Piitney,remarkable transactions there, church, 110; the bridge, 111 ; the Fire-house, the Bowling-greeu lioiisc, eminent natives, 112. Puttcnham Priory, 240. Rail-road fromWandsworth to Merst- tham, 24. Rulcgh, Sir Walter, original letter by his lady, 131. Randalls, near Letherhend, 174. Reigate, hundred of, 144. , situation, markets, popula- tion, representation, 145 ; the cas- tle, 146 ; the Priory, the church, 147 ; the market house, remains of ancient chapels, the park, 149. Richmond, history of its palace, 194; present remains of it, the old park, 198 ; the Lodge, the Observatory, 3 99; the king's farm, the new park, 2^0 • the Lodges, Carthusian con- vent, 201 ; convent of Observants, the church, 202 ; the theatre, 203 ; the bridge, 2i)4 ; eminent native, 205. Hill, mansions upon it, 204. Ripley, George, 276. Rochampton, 113. Grove, ib. House, ib. Rookery-, the, near Dorking, 162. Rooktnest, in the parish of Tandridge, 144. Rotherhitlie, 73 ; the church, schools, 74; Commercial Docks, 75 ; Surrey Canal, Tnames Archway Company', 76 ; celebrated natives, ib. Rumming, Eleanor, her house at Le- therhend, 173. Runnimead, 2H9. Russel, an extraordinary character, U5. John, account of hnn, 271. S.' St. Ann's Hill, 286, 287. St. Katharine's chapel, 271. St. Martha's on the Hill, 226. X Sand erst e4 INDEX. Stndeisfed Court, 135. Selwyn, John, memorial of liira, 216. Send, 276. Send Grove, ib. Shalford House, 227. Shannon, Viscount, his monument, 215. Sheen, East, 108. Sheldon, Archbibliop, his monument, iy5. Shire, its situation, thuich, 2^8. Shirley House, near Cro^'don, 128. Skerne, Robert, his niimument, J 89. Skrine, Henry, Esq. his monument, 215. Smith, Henry, Esq. his monument and inscription, 116; account of him, 117. South wark, history, 43; representa- tion, and division, 44; St Olave's, ib. ; the Bridge-house, 45 ; St. John's and St. Thomas's, 46 ; St. Tlu)raas's Hospital, 47; Guy's Hos- pital, 49 ; St. Saviour's, 51 ; Win- chester House, 54 ; the Stews, 55 ; the Clink, the Globe theatre, 56 ; the Bear Garden, South wark Britlge. 57 ; Borough market, St. Margaret's Hill, ilie Tabard Inn, 58; the iMarshalsea, St. George the Martyr, 59. r Suil'olk Place, Union Hall, County Gaol and House of Correction, 60; King's Bench prison, Christ church, 61 ; Albion Mills, Plate Glass Ma- jkiufactory, Surrey Institution, 62; Jfeurrey Chaj)el, Magdalen Hospi- tal, 6 i ; Surrey Theatre, Obelisk, 64; Lancaster s school, St.Geurge's Firelds, School of tlie Indigent Blind, 65; Pliilanlhropic Society, 06 ; the Dug and Duck, 67. Sierhorough Caslle, 14s^. SiLuckwell, extraordinary imposition practised there, 94, Stoke near Guildford, 277. Stoke, D'AI)ernon, 209. I^toughton, '»i77. Sir Laurence, his epitaph, §78. ^reatham church, 114; mineral wa- ter, 115. Park, 114. Sjarrey, general aspect of the county, division and population, 2; cli- mate>, 3,; soil, 4^ general appear- ance, 6 ; waters, 7 ; minerals and fossils, 10 ; state of property, 13 ; buildings, ib. ; poor-rates and state uf the poor, 14; agriculture, 15 ; roads, 23 ; canals, 25 ; manufac- tures, 26 ; forest, ib. ; Roman sta- tions, encampments, roads, &c. 28; general history, 30 ; honorial his- tory, 31 ; ecclesiastical history and government, 40 ; civil government, representation, &c. 41. Sr.rrey Canal, 25. Sution Place, 282. T. Tandridge, hundred of, 136. village, its priory, 144. Taverner, Richard, Esq. account of him, 1 85 note. Temple Grove, a favourite residence of Sir William Temple, 108. Thames Ditton, 206, Thirieby, Bishop, account of him, 88 iiiiie. TJionias, Bishop, 139. 1 lionison, James, the poet, his monii- nicMt and house, 5:03. Thorncroft, near Letherhead, 174. Tiiuiideilicid Castle, 141. Tluirland, Sir Edward, 118. Tott, Mary, l\er imposture, 236. Toland, John, 110. Tradcscants, their monument, 83; their physic-garden and museum, 95. Tunstail, Bishop, account of him, 83 note. V. Vauxhall, 91 ; Gardens, 92. Villids, Lord Francis, his gallantry, Ibl. W. Wagljorn, Cppt. Iiis monument, 69. Wakefield, Rev. Gilbert, 203. Wallington, remains of antiquity dis- covered ti;erc, 133. Walton on tiie Hill, Roman remains discovered there, lUO ; the church, 181. . I Thames, 210; the bridge, i tl4ii the church, 215. » WandU INDEX. Wandle, river. Its course, 9. Wandsworth, its manufactures, 116 ; church, 117 j bridge. East and West Hill, 118. Watson, Sir Brook, 107. Waverley Abbey, 248. West, Bishop, a native of Putney, 1 1 2. Weston House, 223, 224. Weston, Sir llichard, account of him, 283 note. Wey, river, its course, 7 ; made na- vigable from Weybridge to Godal- ming, 25, 238. Weybridge, 216 ; the church, 220. Whitgift, Archbishop, his monument, 125; hospital founded by him, 126. Wimbledon, its history, 118 ; church, 120. Common, 121; encamp- ment there, ib. House, 1 19. — Lodge, 121. ■ ■ Viscount, his monument, 120. Wishart,Sir James, his monument, 174. Woburn Farm, 288. Woking, hundred of, 251. Woking, town of, 210. Wonersh, 230. Wouham, 150. Wood, Robert, Esq. account of him, 111. Woodbridge House, 277. Woodcote, supposed by some writers to be the Noviomagus of the Ro' mans, 134. Park, 170. Woodmansterne, its elevated situa- tion and salubrity, 135. Wotton, 163. House, ib. Wynne, Sir Richard, account of him, 120. Wynter, Sir Edward, his monument, 96. Y. Yates, Mrs. the actress, 203. z. Zouch, Sir Edward, 281 ; his monit- raent, 283. X2 SITUATION AND EX TF-NT. Sussex, whose coast has of late years become in a peculiar maimer the resort of rank, fashion, and opulence, and whose hills and downs present the same variety of pleasing and pic- turesque situations as those of its neighbour, Surrey ; is bounded on the north by that county, on the west by Hampshire, on the south by the British Channel, and on the east and north-east by Kent. According to Templeman^s tables it is sixty-five miles in length, and twenty-six in breadth, and compreliends 1416 square miles, or 1,140,000 acres; but in this calculation tlie length is considerably under-rated, and the breadth as much aug- mented. Another computation reduces tiie number of acres to 908,952 ; but this is likewise erroneous. The real length of the county from Emsworth to Kent Ditch measures seventy-six miles ; the medium breadth falls sliort of twenty ; and the super- ficial contents amount to 933,380 acres. Division and Population.— The general division of Sussex is into rapes, a division peculiar to this county. These rapes, each of which is said to have had its particular castle, river, and forest, are Chichester, Arundel, and Bramber, forming the western ; and Lewes, Pevensey, and Hastings, the eastern por- tion. The rapes are subdivided into sixty-five hundreds, and comprehend 313 parishes. The population of tiie county, according to the returns made to Parliament in 1801, was as follows: X3 'SUSSEX. n o 02^^ C &3 <^ g Co a ^ i HO ^ o o 5 -1 n> ST ^ 5 ^ « 5 =5 ^ Or >0 00 00 CO to to ^ CO 00 CO CO C5> ^ O Oi ^ •-' Oi Co OJ 4i> = CO " o 3 S OJ^Ki— CXwoO " Or rfs. 00 to *s« to CO 4i._-tO^CO'— OCO"-. OOOC2 0j05CO^CT>K2 ICO 05 Or CJT CO c^' C: U) I— ^D >— 4->.Oo*i.OJtOOOOOtO Oi O. O to 0 1— o> ^} ^ cji 10 01 C30 00 tsO '-t to CO I— ' Oj C;'vi»-4i.COO»tOO)0 Co ^ jvo to — to — ' to 4i. CO U) — CO to CO O 00 Co rfi. CO to 4:=. O-j O) rfi- 'jj O 4:^ 4i> C CO O O *^ CO t'J M 00 CO CO 4-^- C,' <— ^ 00 00 Climate SUSSEX. 7 Climatf. — The climate of this county in the western part of t'lie maritime district is warm and highly ftivonrablc to vegeta- tion ; but it is extremely bleak on such parts of the South Down hills as are exposed to the south west. Here the windn are fre- quently so boisterous as to strip the coverings from all thatched buildings and corn-stacks, and to blow the standing corn out of the ear when ready for harvest. " These winds/* says the Rev. Mr. Young, " when impregnated with saline particles, occasioned by the beating of the spray against the beach, destroy all tiie hedges and trees within the sphere of their influence. On the side exposed to their fury the hedges seem to be cut as if it were artificially ; and in very open situations, though at a considerable distance from the coast, the spray penetrates the houses even if built with brick. Hence arises the necessity of placing all build- ings in this district in low and sheltered positions, to prevent the mischief which would otherwise be occasioned by these winds."* Soil and Surface. — The different soils of chalk., clay, sand, loam, and gravel, are to be found in Sussex. The first is the general soil of the South Down Hills; the second of the wood- land district termed the Weald ; the third principally occupies the north part of the county ; the fourth is found en the north side of the hills ; and the last lies between the rich loam of the coast and the chalk. The soil of the South Downs varies according to its situation. On the summit is usually found, especially in the eastern parts, a very fle^t earth, with a substratum of chalk, and over that a sur- face of chalk rubble, covered with a light stratum of vegetable calcareous mould. Sometimes on the summit of the downs there X4 h, ♦ Young's Agric. of Su^bex, p. 3. In a note on this passage, the Rev. Mr. Sneyd ventures to call in question the accuracy of this generally re- ceived opinion respecting the niiiligiiant operation of the saline elJluvia. His notion, deduced from rciisoiung which appears perfectly just, is, that all the injury ascribed to those effluvia ought to be attributed to the force of the vvijid alone, which obstructs by its agitation iho course of the juices that should nouiiih the leaves. SUSSEX. is only a light covering of flint, upon which the grass sponta- neously grows. Proceeding down the hills,, the soil becomes of a deeper staple, and at the bottom the surface is every where of sufficient depth for ploughing. Westward of the river Arun, the soil above the chalk is very gravelly, intermixed with large flints. Between the rivers Adur and Ouse is found a substratum of reddish sand, covered by a flinty surface. The depth of the soil above the chalk varies in al- most every acre of land, from one to twelve inches ; the general average between Eastbourne and Shoreham does not exceed five inches ; but westward of the latter place the staple is deeper ; and between Arundel and Hampshire its depth continues to in- crease. At the northern extremity of the chalk hills, and usually ex- tending the same length as the Downs, is a slip of very rich arable land, the breadth of which is inconsiderable. The soil of this narrow slip is a stilf calcareous loam on a clay bottom, so difFiCult to plough, that it is no unusual thing to see ten or twelve stout oxen, and sometimes more, at work upon it. Southward of the hills is an extensive arable vale of singular fertility. Tiiis maritime district, extending 36 miles from Bright- helrastone to Emsworth, is at first of very trifling breadth ; as fi^r as Shoreham it falls short of a mile; between the Adur and Arun it is increased to three ; and from the Arun to the boi-ders of Hampshire it becomes still wider, from thr^e to seven miles. Between this vale and the South DJwns runs a stripe of lajid, not equal to that just mentioned in richness, but excellent for the turnip husbandry. It is provincially t/ermed shravey, that is, stony or gravelly, the flints sometimes lying so iliick as to cover the ground ; aiul yet it is curious to observe how vegetation flou- rishes through such beds of stones. It is the general opinion, founded on experience, that were the farmers to go to the expense and trouble of picking these stones off the land, the soil would be laaterially injured. The soil of the Weald is mostly a very stifl'loam on a brick day i bottom. SUSSEX. 9 bottom, and that again upon sand-stones ; but upon the hills run- ning through thi! county in a north-west direction, it is somewhat different. Here it is either a sandy loam on a sandy grit-stone, or a poor black vegetable sand on a soft clay marl. A great pro- po'ition of these liiils is nothing but the poorest barren sand. Such is St. Leonard's Forest, containing 10,000 acres, and Ash- down Forest 18,000 more. An extensive tract of this unimproved sandy soil, stretching into Kent on one side, and with the inter- vention of some cultivated spots, into Hampshire on tiue other, chiefly occupies the northern division of the county. So predominant is timber or wood of some kind in the Weald, that when viewed from the South Downs, or any elevation, it appears one mass of trees. Anterior to the Norman conquest, this tract was a continued forest, extending across the whole county from the borders of Kent to the confines of Hampshire. When it was first improved by clearing, it was a common prac- tice to leave a shaw, several yards in width, round each inclo- sure, as a nursery for timber ; and the size of these iuclosures being small, the general aspect of the country must of course be woody. In truth, the forest yet remaining occupies a consider- able portion of Sussex. Besides the soils already mentioned, there is a large tract of marsh-land adjacent to the sea-coast between the eastern extre- mity of the South Downs and Kent. The soil is a composition of rotten vegetables, intermixed with sand and other matters de- posited by floods upon the earth. From these marshes timber and trees, each containing one load ciibic measure, have at dif- ferent times been dug up. Minerals. — In regard to minerals, Sussex is not inferior to mbst of the counties of England. In the easternmost parts of the Weald is found every sort of limestone. The Sussex marble, when cut into slabs for ornamental chimney-pieces, and highly polished, is equal to most kinds for beauty and quality. It is an excellent stone for square building ; and for paving is not ex- ceeded 10 SUSSEX. ceeded. It affords a very valuable manure, equal, and by some thought superior to chalk, and cheaper to those who live near the place where it is dug. It is found in the highest perfection on an estate of the Earl of Egremont's at Kirdford, from ten to twenty feet under ground, where it lies in strata n'me or ten inches thick. Much of it was used in Canterbury cathedral ; the pillars, mo- numents, vaults, and pavement, of that venerable structure being of this material, which is there denominated Petworth marble ; and the archbishop^s chair is formed of one entire piece. The Sussex lime -stone has been found superior to botli that of Maidstone and Plymouth ; and for cement it is thought to Surpass any in the kingdom. Iron-stone abounds in tliis county ; and to the ferruginous mixture with which its soil is in many places so highly impregnated, is to be ascribed the sterility of so large a portion of its surface. Chalk is still more plentiful, a vast range of hills which occupy a considerable part of the county Contiguous to the coast being composed of that material. On the south side of tl.ese hills marl is dug in various places. Fuller's tarth is found at Tiilington, and consumed in the neighbouring mills ; and red ochre at Graffham, Chidham, and other places on the coast, whence much of it is sent to the metropolis. Rivers.-— The rivers of Sussex are insignificant streams when compared with those of some other provinces of the kingdom ; but they are exclusively its own, as their origin and courses are confined within the limits of the county. All of them fall into the British Channel. The Lavant, one of the smallest of these rivers, rises near East Dean, and encircles Chichester on all sides but the north. It is navigable only to a small distance from its mouth. In this river near the sea are bred lobsters of remarkable excellence. The Arun has its source in St. Leonard's Forest , and, after running a few miles westward, turns due south, passes by Arun- del in its serpentine course, and disciiarges itself into the sea at Little Hampton. This river is celebrated for its mullets, which, in SUSSEX. 11 in the summer season, proceed upward in large shoals as far as Arundel in quest of a particular kind of weed, which renders them a great delicacy. It is also famous for its trout and eels. The Adur, sometimes called the Beeding, also rises in St. Leonard's Forest, whence directing its course soutliward it passes Steyning and Bramber ; but, on reaching Shoreham, turns sud- denly to the east, and, after forming a narrow peninsula about three miles in length, falls iiiio tlie sea, a little to the westward of Brighthehustone. The Ouse derives its origin from two branches, one of which rises in the forest of Worth, and the other in that of St. Leonard near the source of the Adur. These streams form a junction not far from Cuckfield; and their united current, running southward to Lewes, discharges itself into the sea at Newhaven. This river was formerly navigable only as far as Levies for small barges at particular times of the tide ; but having been widened, deepened, and otherwise improved, it is now constantly navigable for boats of larger burden as higli as five miles eastward of Cuckfield. The Rother has its source at Rotherfield, near the borders of Ashdown Forest. It runs eastward, divides into two streams on the borders of Kent, and again uniting, forms the island of Ox- «ey ; after which it expands into an estuary near Rye, below which place it falls into the British Channel. Woods.— Sussex is one of those counties which, from the re- motest antiquity, has been celebrated for its timber, principally oak. Before the Norman Conquest it was one continued forest ; and the quantity of woodland which it at present contains cannot be estimated at less than 170, or 180,000 acres. The reigning feature of the Weald is its timber, whicli overspreads it in every direction; and so naturally is it adapted to the soil, that if a field were sown with furze only, the ground, in the course of a few years, would be covered with young oaks, without any trouble or expense of plaiiting. The quality of this timber may be col- lected from this circumstance, that the navy-con tractors stipulate for Sussex oak in preference to every other kind. The 12 SUSSEX. Wa stes. — The tracts of land which come under the description of mere wastes in Sussex are very considerable. They chiefly occupy the northern side of the county, where, in a district con- taining by computation 500,000 acres, these almost desert tracts form not less than 110,000. It is not a little extraordinary, that such immense tracts of land should be left in an unprofitable state, when they are every where intersected by turnpike-roads, and tiYe only between tliirty-five and forty-five miles distant from such a market as London. Roads and Canals. — The turnpike-roads in Sussex arc in general well-executed. Their goodness is chiefly owing to the excellence of the materials, whin-stone, and the Kent- ish rag, of which they are composed. Where these are not found the roads are worse; and in some of the eastern parts of the county they are narrow and sandy. The roads from the principal towns to the metropolis, and the great cross-road near the coast which connects them together, are ex- cellent. The other cross-roads on the coast are kept firm and dry by the grave!, or sea-beach ; but in the Weald, says the Rev. Mr. Young, they are in all probability the very worst that are to be met with in any part of the island. This is to be as^ cribed partly to the nature of the soil, which is a heavy clay, with^ out bottom ; partly to the transport of vast loads of timber, corn, and other produce ; and partly to the predilection of land-iiolders for their shaws and woods, which effectually prevent a free cir- culation of the wind and air *. Though Sussex has scarcely the shadow of any thing that de- iserves the name of a manufacture, yet the advantages which it has • The author of the View of the Agricultuie of Sussex, in treating of its roads, states a singular fact. " There is." says he, " such an instance of the benefit of a turnpike-road at Horsham as is very rarely to be met with. The present road to London was made in 1756; before that time il was so ex- ecrably bad, that whoever went on wheels was forced to go round by Canter- bury, which is one of the most extraordinary circumstances, that the history of «on-communicalion in this kingdom can furnish." (p. 419.) SUSSEX. lias received, and is likdyto derive from the promotiOTi of inland navigation, are very considerable. In this respect art is not here required to form a new creation, but merely to assist nature by im- proving the cluuincls of tlie different rivers that traverse the county from north to south. The Arun is navigiable from the sea to its junction with the New Cut seventeen miles three furlongs; and from that point a company of merchants have extended the navigation as far an Newbridge. The first cut formed to avoid a circuit of five miles and a half, which the river makes by Greatham and Pulborough, is a mile and three quarters in length, including a tunnel of about a quarter of a mile, thirteen feet and a half wide, and as much in height, w'liich cost 60001. From the end of the cut to Pa- li»gham Quay, three miles, the river is navigable; but thence to Newbridge another cut has been made, at the expense of 15,0001. To extend the benefit of water-carriage to other parts of th# county, the Earl of Egremont, a nobleman more illustrious for hii public spirit and zeal in promoting objects of public utility than for his rAnk and opulence; obtained an Act of Parliament at his sole expense to make the Rother, a branch of the Arun, navigable from its junction with that river to Midhurst, and by a collateral branch to Petworth, so that those two places now have an nnin- ten iipted commr.nication with the sea. In the line from Midhurst to the Arun, this navigation has eight locks, with a fall of 52 feet, And 86 in the cut fcom Petworth. This un:lert?»king, however, forms only part cf a grand plan for connecting London with Sii^:sex, by means of the jnnction of the Anin with the V/ey at Guildford. It lias been ascertained that this may be effected by a cut in almost a straight line of seventeen miles, through a country the soil of which is prin- cipally clay, presenting no difficulties, and with a plentiful sup- ply of water in the driest seasons ; and it is calculated that the Avork may be completed in two years. According to the esti- mate of Mr. Jessop, the sum required for accomplishing it is 71,0001, ; but the projectors, wishing^ to meet every expense, de- termined. 14 SUSSEX. termined, in 1811, to raise 90,0001. by a subscription, which being now full, application will be made to Parliament to sanction the measure. A plan has also been proposed for cutting another canal from Newbridge on the Rother to Horsham, and thence to the iron rail-waj at Merstham, near Reigate, in Surrey. State of Property.— In so large, populous, and cultivated a district, the size of estates must necessarily vary. The largest does not exceed 7,5001. per annum. Most proprietors hold land in their own occupation, and many of them are dis- tinguished for the steady patronage and encouragement which they have given to agricultural improvements. The exertions of the Earl of Egremont and Lord Sheffield are too well known to need any remark ; and the Duke of Richmond and the Earl of Chichester have also distinguished themselves in this way. Farms here, as elsewhere, are more extensive, and their ma- nagement in general is highly superior on dry soils to what is usuall}' tlie case on wet ones. On a comparison of the Weald with the South Downs, this circumstance will be sufficiently mani- fest. In the former, though farms sometimes exceed 2001. a year, yet they are not often met with of that magnitude ; by far the greater number fall so short of this standard, that the general average in that district is under 1001. On the South Downs they rise much higher, many farmers occupying the greatest part, if not the wJiole, of their respective parishes ; so that they may here average about SC)0\. per annum. In the triangle formed by Shoreham, Lewes, and Eastbourn, they .exceed that amount, but fall below it on the west side of the Downs. In the maritime dis- trict they vary from 701. to 1501. ; and upon the large gravelly soil situated between the latter and the South Downs, they may be taken upon an average at 2001. Rent, of course, varies with the quality of the land ; a great quantity of waste, not less than 100,000 acres in the Weald, letting from one shilling to one and sixpence ; and some of the 9 marsh- 15 marsh-land on the coas^ fetching fifty shillings, and even sixty shillings, per acre. The following general statement of the rent, produce, and division, of land in this county is given hy the Rev. Mr. Young *. Jcrei. Rent. Produce. Down Land , as^OOOat 7s. is 23,8001. at 3 rents 71,4001. Rich arable 100,000— -20s. -— 100,0001. — 5 500,000], Marsh 30,000 — 25s. — 37,5001.-2 75,0001. Waste nO,000 — 18d.— 8.2501.- ii ■ 12,3751, Arable and Pasture in the Weald 425,000 — 1 2s. — 255,0001. — 3 765,0001. Wpods,&c. 170,000— 8s. — 68,0001.-2 136,0001. 903,000 492,5501. 1,559,7751. The remainder is composed of water, roads, buildings, &c. so that the general rent is 492,5-')01. or about ten shillings per acre; and the produce upwards of a million and a half sterling. Leases are granted for seven, fourteen, and twenty-one years ; but it sometimes happens that none is allowed, and the tenant de- pends solely on the honour and good fiiith of his landlord. Buildings.— Many of the seats of the noblemen and gentlemea of Sussex are raised upon a splendid, no less than a useful, plan ; 80 that few districts can boast of more elegant structures of that dass. For farm-buildings and offices, stone is the material most commonly used, wherever quarries are conveniently situated for procuring it ; and this is the case throughout a great proportion of the county. On the South Downs, and in their vicinity, an- other material equally good is employed in the construction of houses. This is flints, of which the buildings of this district are in general composed. The use of tiles as a facing for houses is very prevalent in Sussex. In exposed situations, this practice effectually checks the fury of storms, and preserves the inside of the • Agric. «fSasi p. 30. 1,6 SUSSEX. the house air-tight and dry. The cottages of Sussex are supe- rior in tbeir coastruction and accommodations to those of many other counties ; in the Weald they are in general warm and com- fortable, many of them being there built of stone, and on the Downs with flints. State Of the Poor. — In a few instances this county af- fords examples of the union of a certain number of parishes to form houses of industry, ' in imitation of those establish- ed in several other parts of England; but there is little pro- spect that this practice will ever become by any means general, notwithstanding the evident good effects of the sys- tem. In some of the parish workhouses which, says the Re- verend Mr. Young*, seem principally intended in terrorem, and without which the parishes would be overwhelmed by the demands of the paupers, feeble attempts have been made to employ the poor that are lodged in them ; but in great part there is no attempt at any work. In the year ending at Easter, 1803, the total sum expended in this county for the maintenance and re- lief of the poor was, 149,9971. Agriculture. — The proportion between arable and pasture varies in different parts of the couuty. In the Weald one. third is arable, one -third pasture, and one-third wood and waste. On the south side of the Dowus the arable exceeds the pas- ture in the ratio of thirty to one. On some farms the propor- tion is lower; but in others much higher, for there are whole parishes that have scarcely an acre of grass excepting a little marsh-land. The practice of fallowing very generally prevails in the stiff soils of Sussex, where it is thought a necessary preparation ; but in the rich soil at the foot of the South Downs, the best farmers never fallow. Though experience has proved that the practice is neither necessary nor profitable, yet some adhere to this system ; but it is, generally speaking, on the decline. The rotation of crops adoptetl by farmers in this district is in a great * Agric- of Sussex^ p. 436. SUSSEX. 17 a great measure governed by the nature of the soil which thej^ cultivate. The most general course pursued on the sliffer, or strong loamy clays, may be considered as the standard of the Weald, and is as follows I. Fallow. 2. Wheat. 3. Oats. 4. Clover, or ray-grass, two or three years. 5. Oats, pease, or wheat. On lighter lands is practised an arrangement which can- not be too much recommended : — 1. Turnips. 2. Barley. 3. Clo- ver. 4. Wheat. In the neighbourhood of Battel, Eastbourne^ and other places, a different system is pursued. Here the ro- tation is : — 1. Potatoes. 2. Barley. 3. Clover. 4. Wheat, Up- on the chalk farms the arrangement is thus: — 1. Fallow. 2. Wheat. 3. Barley. 4. Clover. 3. Wheat ; or : 1. Wheat. 2. Bar- ley. 3. Tares, or pease. 4. Oats. 5. Clover; or: 1. Wheat. 2. Barley. 3. Clover. 4. Turnips; or: 1. Wheat. 2. Pease. 3. Barley. 4. Turnips. 5. Tares. In the maritime district the customary mode of cropping is in this order : — I. Tares, or pease. 2. Wheat. 3. Clover. 4. Clover. 5. Wheat. 6. Oats. This system is adapted to very rich land alone. Particular in**^ stances have occurred when wheat has been sown four or five years in succession ; and the produce has amounted to four or five quarters per acre. Throughout the gravelly soils between Chichester and the South Downs we find : 1. Pease. 2. Wheat. 3. Barley. 4. Clover. 5. Wheat. 6. Pease; or: 1. Turnips 2. Barley. 3. Clover. 4. Wheat. The new species of wheat, known by the name of CJiidham white, or Hcdge-wlieat, was discovered by Mr. Woods of Chid- ham, in this ( county. Walking occasionally over his fields he met with a single plant of it growing in a hedge. It contained thirty cars, in which were 1400 corns ; and lliis was the origin of the seed now dispersed over Surrey, Hampshire, and other counties, and largely cultivated about Guildford. The crops not commonly cultivated are, beans, potatoes, buck- wheat, lettuces, hops, carrots, rhubarb, opium, sainfoin, lucern, and chicory. The greatest quantity of potatoes is raise4 in the neighbour- VOL. XIV. Y hood SUSSEX. flood of Ballel, Eiislhoiirne, and Chichester; and the produce is from 400 to 600, and even 700 bushels per acre. They are chiefly used for fattening^ bullocks; and they have also been employed with success in feeding horses and sheep. Lettuces of the wliite coss species have been often raised by Mr. Davis of lieddiiij^iiam for liogs ; and he has fcmnd them particularly useful for feeding yoiuig pigs after weaning. Hops are mucJi cultivated in the eastern part of the county : the largest plantation, contain- ing between three and four hundred acres, is in the parish of Salehnrst. Rhubarb and opium are produced by the Earl ^ Egremont at Petworth for medicinal purposes. The former is found equal, and the latter much superior, to that of foreign growth. The management of the meadow and pasture lands varies but little from the practices common in other counties ; though here indeed there is but too much reason to complain of negligence _with respect to the improvement of grazing land. Irrigation is %ut locally known ; and it is only in the western parts of the county that any signs of it are to be observed. Very great im- provements, however, have of late years been effected in the marshes situated along the coast, or in the neighbourhood of the rivers. The stock upon these marshes consists of cattle as well as sheep. In the level of Pevensey, which has plenty of fresh water, tlie former have been universally preferred ; but the marsh ground about Winchelsea and Rye being deficient in water is thought better calculated for the latter. In tlie w^estern part of Sussex are some considerable orchards, and where the soil is adapted to the fruit, tlie plantations are tliickly interspersed. The neighbourhood of Petworth yields the best cyder of any in tlie county. The manures used in Sussex besides common dung arc : chalk, lime, marl^ sleech, soap-ashes, wood-ashes, peat-ashes, coal-ashes, rags, sheep-clippings, pilchards, paring-dust, gypsum. The first three are applied in great abundance ; the rest, from their nature, but partially. The SUSSEX. 19 The breed of Sussex cattle and sheep forms the most distin* jpiishing feature in the husbandry of this county. The cattle are nniversally allowed to be equal to any in the kingdom. The thorough-bred Sussex cow has a deep red colour, fine hair, and the skin mellow, thin, and soft ; a small head ; a fine horn, thin, clear, and transparent, which should run out horizontally, and afterwards turn up at the tips ; the neck very thin and clean made ; a small leg ; a straight top and bottom, with round and springing ribs ; thick chine ; loin, hips, and rump wide; shoulder flat ; but the projection of tlie point of the shoulder not liked, as the cattle subject to this defect are usually coarse; the legs should be rather short, the carcase large ; the tail should lie level with the rump. A ridgf^d back-bone, and thin, and hollow chines, are great defects in this breed In regard to the quantity of milk the Sussex cows are not to be compared with some other breeds ; but what they want in that point, they make up in ([uality. A good cow will give five pounds of butter a week in the height of tlie season ; and there are instances when one has yielded ten pounds of butter, and twelve of cheese in the same time. Butter and milk, however, are not an object where tlie system of rearing young stock is so well understood, and so much more profitable. January is most pommonly considered the best season for calving; though some graziers find two months later a better time. The calves are usually twelve weeks old before they are weaned ; they are then turned to gras^ during the summer, and the following winter fed upon hay. The number of oxen used in husbandry in Sussex h considerable; they are broken in at two years and a half old ; at three they begin to be regularly worked for three or four years, • very seldom any longer, after which they are fatted and sold to the marsh graziers : but many persons, especially where the pro- fitable arrangement of Down and marsh is united in the same farm, have such an opportunity of fattening these oxen as to turn them to the highest advantage. Whatever is the work of an ox Y 2 it * Young's View of the Agric. of Sussex,p. 253. 20 StJSSfiX. it is always so proportioned as not to affect the growth of flie animal. This is the reason why such numbers of them are seeii conpletl iii a team. Eight are called a team, and are the common allowance for a plough, on almost any soil; but upon stiff land, ten or twelve are used. The customary load for a team is from eight to ten qisarlcrs of wheat. In the fatting of oxen it is not unusual to find excellent con- trivances to save labour in attendance. Stalls, or sheds of flint, are frequently constructed, as at Mr. Thomas Ellman's, of Shore- hum, Willi keelers in each stall for watering, and troughs of com- munication to convey the water from a pump in the farm-yard to the general trough at the outside of the building, which is again conveyed to each stall ; so that all the trouble of tying, un- tying, and driving to water, is avoided. Each stall is sufficient for two oxen, the Kpace of five feet being allowed for each. Sussex is almost the only county that possesses a breed of sheep as well as cattle, both of great comparative excellence, and both peculiarly its own. In spite of the artful insinuations of in- terest and prejudice, the merit of the South Down sheep is so firmly established, that they have of late years been extending themselves over the eastern, and particularly the western, sides of the kingdom, with a rapidity unparalleled in the annals of our husbandry. The true South Down sheep are polled; and when Avell bred have a small head and clear neck, which are very es- sential qualities ; but the length of the latter is a disputed point among breeders, some preferring a long neck, because the surface produces more wool, and that of a fine quality; while others think lambs which are spear-necked not so well able to bear se- vere weather. They stand higher, and are thicker in the hind than in the fore quarter, the former weighing heavier by two or three pounds; and as it sells dearer, this is considered as a crite- rion of great merit in the breed. The jaw is clean and thin, and should be covered with wool, as it has been remarked, that sheep free of wool about the jaw are apt to lose it under the belly,which is a great defect, especially in a cold larabing-tirae. Wool on the SUSSEX. 21 llic poll is not approved, nor any tuft on the cheelfs. The shoulders are wide; the breast open and deep; fore and hind legs stand wide ; they are round and straight in thp barrel ; broad upon the loin and hips ; shut well in the twist, which is a pro- jection of flesh in the inner part of the thigli, that gives a full- ness when viewed behind, and makes a South Down leg of mutton remarkably round and short. The South Down farmers breed their sheep with faces and legs of a colour, just as suits their fancy ; one prefers them black, anotlier sandy, a third speckled ; but they one and all exclaim against white. Grey, speckled, and mottled faces and legs are most common. In regard to the quality of flesh this breed is not surpassed by any in England ; and its wool is little, if at all inferior to that of the Hereford sheep, as the com- mon practice of sorting the different wools in Herefordshire is not known upon the Downs. Their hardiness is unquestionably demonstrated by their healthiness, and freedom from losses araid the storms to which they are exposed in winter and spring on their bleak native hills. All these recommendations, however, are crowned by an advantage which gives the South Down sheep a decisive superiority over other breeds ; and this consists in the small quantity of food required for their consumption. " If," says the Rev. Mr. Young, " the proportion of stock to ground is extended over all the South Downs, and the contiguous land, so as to comprehend a tract of 150,000 acres, the number of sheep upon this surface from authentic accounts is estimated at 270,000 in summer^ anxli 220,000 in winter; a rate of stocking which is HOt exceeded in any other part of England, marsh-land alone ex- cepted." * The same writer calculates, that on the tract of Downs between East Bourne and Steyning, thirty-three miles by six, the average is about one ewe and a half per acref. Tho- rough-bred wethers will fat at three years old to 30 lbs. per quarter, and the average weight of each fleece may be computed at 2i lbs. There are other breeds of sheep besides the South Down in Y o Sussex^ • j^gricul. of Sussex, p. S04. f lb. p. '^O'i. SUSSEX. Sussex, such as the Romney, Hampshire, Dorset, Wiltshire, and Somerset. The total amount of all the sheep kept in the coanty, including the native breed, is calculated at about 450,000. Sheep-yards, or standing folds, are very judiciously con- structed on the South Downs. Mr. Ellnian has one which in- cludes an area of fifty yards by twenty, and is sufficient for 750 sheep, at the rate of one yard and a half for each, so arranged as to contain sheds all round, nine or ten feet in width, and across the centre, if the flock is numerous. A rack for hay is placed against the wall which surrounds the whole; and another, a double one, along the central shed for the sheep to feed fcom in each division of the yard. The horses employed in the husbandry of this county have no-* thing in them wliich deserves particular notice ; and the hogs are descended either from the large Berkshire spotted, or from a cross Jbetween that and a smaller black and white breed. Rabbits, which flourish in proportion to the size of the wastes, are, therefore, productive in this county. From Horsham and Ash- down Forests considerable quantities are sent to the markets of the metropolis. In some parts of Sussex, as at North Chappel, Kirdford, &c. poultry are fattened to a size and perfection unknown elsewhere. A fowl when full grown will weigh seven pounds; the average is five pounds; but there are instances of their attaining double tliat weight. TliC Dorking fowls, as they are called, are all raised in the Weald of Sussex, but not the five-clawed species, which, thoug h considered in other parts of England as the prime stock, is ouly a bastard breed. Fish is an object of some consequence in this "county. The Weald contains innumerable ponds, many of which date their origin from the time when tliat part of Sussex was the seat of an extensive iron-manufacture ; and in the mill-ponds are now raised large quantities of fish. Carp is the chief stock; but tench, percli, eels, and pike, are also bred. Of the agricultural implements used in Sussex there is little to SUSSEX. 23 to observe. The most common wheel-pIoiig:h is tlie Kentish lurn- wrest. In the maritime division of the county a one-wheel plough is highly esteemed. Mr. Woods of Chidham has ac- quired considerable credit by the invention of a wheel-plough drawn by two horses abreast, and worked without any driver. It moves well in stiff' land, and ploughs three-fourths of an acre in the same time that a full acre is ploui;hed in the common method. Whether the broad-share belongs to Kent, or is a Sussex in- vention, yet remains to be decided. The great use of this ad- mirable tool is for cutting pea and bean stubbles, or weedy fal- lows, that do not require plowing. It consists of an oblong share two feet long, and four or five inches wide, fixed to the sock, or front of tlie ground-rist, by an iron shank in the middle, and sometimes bolted to the side of the ground-rist of a wheel-plough. It is pitched with an inclination into the ground, asid raised, or depressed at pleasure, by the elevation or depression of the beam, on the gailows. After the stubbles are cut with this machine, they are harrowed, raked, and burnt ; and the land is left in excellent order for wheat. General History.— At the period of the arrival of the Romans in Britain, Sussex was inhabited by a people whom those conquerors liave denominated the Regni. It seems pretty certain, that this pnrt of the island was never visited by Csesar, and that its reductioji was reserved for Flavius Ves- pasian, who was commissioned by ^ Claudius about A. D. 47, to establish the Rom&n dominion in the maritime provinces;^ of the island. This he accomplished without mnch difficulty, and fixed his head-quarters at the place now called Chi- chester. The site of his encampment is still plainly to be traced on the Broile, near that city. Tliis general appointed Cogidubnus governor of the Regni, and honoured him with the titles of king, friend, and ally, of the Roman people. From this time we meet with no particular mention of this district in history, till the de- parture of the Romans left an open field for new invaders. Y 4 ^ U 24 SUSSEX. In the year 450, the first Saxon force, under Hengist and Horsa, arrived in Britain. Their success allured fresh adventurers ; and in 477, another chieftain, named Ella, landed with his three sons, and a considerable number of followers at West Wittering, a vil- lage about eight miles south-west of Chichester. Ella soon made himself master of the adjacent coast, but found himself too weak to penetrate into the country, which was bravely defended by the inhabitants. He therefore sent home for succours, which, in 478, arrived in such numbers, as enabled him to undertake the siege of the capital of tlie Regni. The Britons exerted all their strength in the defence of this important place ; and so ha- rassed the besiegers, that the Saxon leader v/as obliged to apply for a still more numerous reinforcement. All resistance was now hopeless, the city was taken by assault; and Ella, in revenge for the obstinate defence of the inhabitants, ordered them all to be put to the sword, without distinction of age or sex. The rest of the district immediately submitted without farther oppo- sition.* Ella now assumed the title of King of the South Saxons ; and hence this province received the appellation of Sud-sex, or Sussex, He had reigned six years, when, on the death of Hengist, he was chosen as the head of the Saxon confederacy, which dignity he continued to enjoy till his decease, in 504, or 505. Cissa, the youngest, and only surviving son of Ella, succeeded him in the government of the South Saxons. Being of a pacific disposition, he cultivated the arts of peace in preference to those of war, and employed his time and treasure in rebuilding, and improving his capital, to which he gave the appellation of Cissa- cester, after his own name. Having ruled the South Saxons up- wards * Such is tlie accoBi#given by Hay in his History of Chichester, on what authority does not appear. It sceir.s nut improbable, that he has transferred to this place an event wliich actually belongs to the ancient city of Anderida* respecting the site of which uur antiquaiits are by no means agreed. SUSSEX. 25 wards of 70 years, he died, as it is related, in 577, at the advanced age of 117 years. ' In the year 650, we find Adelwalch, or, as he is also called, Ethelwald, on the throne of Sussex. This monarch was attack- ed, vanquished, and taken prisoner, by Wolphur, King of Mercia; but having at the court of the latter embraced the Christian re- ligion, he was reinstated in his dominions. During his reign, Ceadwalla, a prince of the blood royal of Wessex, having ac- quired great popularity and influence among his countrymen, sought to usurp the supreme authority ; hut his designs being timely discovered and frustrated, he was obliged to quit the king- dom : upon which he fled to the forest of Anderida, now the Weald of Sussex, where he subsisted for some time by heading a band of freebooters. To rid himself of this troublesome in- mate, Adelwalch attacked and expelled him from his territories. Some time afterwards Ceadwalla undertook an expedition against Kent with no better success ; but, in his retreat, again met Adel- walch, whom he now defeated and killed. On the death of the king, Bertliun and Anthun, two South Saxon nobles, rallied their countrymen around them ; and by their valour and conduct compelled the invader to retire with great loss. Very soon afterwards the King of Wessex died, and Ceadwalla having found means to mount the vacant throne, pre- pared to renew the war witli the South Saxons. He accordingly again entered their country with a strong army. Berthun and Anthun made tlie best opposition they were able; but the former being slain in battle, their forces were dispersed, and the whole province was miserably ravaged by the enemy. Ceadwalla, how- ever, was so much employed in wars with Kent, that he was obliged to leave to his successor the complete subjugation of the South Saxon monarchy. After this event no mention is made of this province till, in 803, Egbert King of Wessex annexed it to his dominions. On the Norman invasion Sussex shared the fate of the rest of the kingdom, and was parcelled out by the Conqueror among some of his 36 SUSSEX. his principal officers. To Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Aruu- delj he gave seventy-seven manors; to Robert, Earl of M or et on and Cornwall, fifty-four; to AVilliani, Earl of Eu, whose descend- ants possessed the honour of Hastings, fifty-two ; and to William de Braose forty -one. Since this important revolution Sussex lias not been exclu- sively distinguished by any event of sufiicient consequence for particular record. HoNORiAL History.— The first person on whom this county conferred a title of honour was William de Albini, com- monly called William with the Strong Hand. His fa- ther, of the same name, had received from the Conqueror a grant of the manor of Bokenham, in Norfolk, to hold by the tenure of officiating as butler to the kings of England, on the day of their coronation. The son being in France, and having tliere refused an offer of marriage from the queen- dowager, v;as, by her command, shut up in a lion^s den, where he llirust his hand into the mouth of tlie formidable ani- mal, and pulled out his tongue by the roots. Having gained great celebrity by this, and other exploits, soon after liis return to • England he contracted an alliunce v.ith Adeliza, widow- of Henry I. and in her right became Earl of Sussex and Arundel. Some- times indeed lie subscribed himself Earl of Chichester; and on other occasions Earl of Arundel, at which places he chiefly re- sided ; but it was of Sussex that be was really the Earl, and had the third penny of the pleas of the county. In his descendants the title continued for three successions, when the family became ex- tinct in the person of his grandson, Hugh de Albini, on which, in 1243, John Plantagenet, Earl of Surrey, half-brother to King Henry III. was invested with this earldom; but on the death of his son it again became dormant; and thus remained for near 200 years, till revived, in 1529, by Henry VIII. in favour of Robert Ratclie fe, who earned this distinction by his ser- vices during the campaigns of that monarch in France ; and also by SUSSEX. 27 by his readiness to promote the divorce of his master from Qiicch Catherine. His descendants, some of whom were alike distin- guished for the high posts to which they were raised, and the important services which they rendered to tlie Crown and state, enjoyed the title till the extinction of the family by the death of the last male heir during the reign of Charles 1. A few years afterwards the king conferred it on Thomas Savil, Baron Pontefract, and Viscount Castlebar in Ireland, who, as a reward for his adherence to the royal cause, was, in 1644, created Earl of Sussex; hut his honours died ia 1671 with his son and successor, who left no issue. This va- cancy, however, was of short duration ; for, in 1674, Thomas Lennard, Lord Dacres, was advanced to the dig- nity of Earl of Sussex, hut he also died without male issue* The title was soon afterwards bestowed by George I. on Sir Talbot Yelverton, Bart. Baron Grey of Ruthen, and Viscount Longueville, who was created Earl of Sussex in 1717. On the death of Henry, the third Earl of this family, the honour became extinct : but in 1801 it was revived in the person of Prince Augustus Frederic, sixth son of his Majesty, who was invested with the title of Duke of Sussex. Ecclesiastical History.— The South Saxons were among the last people of the heptarchy to embrace the truths of the Christian religion. Till the time of Adeiwalch, who ascended the throne about the year 650, they remained Pagans ; but on the return of that king from his captivity in Mercia, where he was converted to the Christian faiUi, he exerted all his influence to propagate the religion of the Gospel among his subjects. About this period Wilfrid, Archbishop of York, having, for his turbulent opposition to Egfiid king of North- wmberlaud, and for his unwarrantable appeal to the Roman pontifT, been exiled from the dominions of tliat monarch, in vain sought an asylum in Mercia and Wessex. At length he applied to Adeiwalch, who permitted him to reside in his domi- nions, on condition that he should use the utmost diligence to convert 28 SUSSEX. convert the inhabitants to the Christian faith. The king ap- pointed Wilfrid to be their bishop, assigning the peninsula of Selsea for his abode, and that and other lands for the support of himself and those by whom he was accompanied. Bede relates, that the labours of Wilfrid were facilitated by circumstances, which, though they might readily gain belief in his time, require a greater share of credulity than the present age is disposed to exercise. For three years before Wilfrid's arrival, according to that writer, no rain had fallen in this province, and the drought had occasioned such a terrible famine, that the people, forty or fifty in a company, joining hand in hand, threw themselves into the sea to escape the horrors of a lingering death. But no sooner ■were the South Saxons received by baptism into the Christian churchj than a calm and copious rain restored the earth to its former fertility. Wilfrid and his companions, considering the present wants of the people, taught them the art of fishing, of which they were before ignorant, and this enabled them to pro- cure a sufficient supply of food till the corn should ripen. Being thus made sensible of the beneficence of their teachers, they were the more willing, we are told, to trust those with the care of their souls who had so wonderfully supported their bodies. On the death of Adelwalch, who fell in battle with Cead walla, the conqueror, so far from molesting Wilfrid, confirmed to him the grant of the peninsula of Sclsea, where he founded a monas- tery. Here he resided four or five years, and on the death of Egfrid, king of Northumberland, returned about the year 685 to that country, where he found means to obtain his reinstatement in the see of York. After his departure, as Heylin informs us,* this see was governed by the bishops of Winchester till 711, when Eadbert, abbot of Selsea, was appointed bishop of the South Saxons. During more ihan three succeeding centuries the episcopate of Sclsea exhibits no more than a barren catalogue of names, till the reign of the Conqueror, by whose command the -residence of tlie bishops was transferred from Selsea to Chi- chester, * Help to History, p. 8i. StfSSEX^ 2^ Chester. It wals during the prelacy of Stigand that this removal took place, but in what year is not clearly ascertained, though it is conjectured, and with great probability, to have happened about the year 1082. Since that period tiie mitre of Chichester has been transmitted without interruption through a long line of prelates, many of whom were men of exemplary piety and great learning, fathers of the city and of the diocese over which they presided ; while others proved benefactors to the kingdom in ge- neral, patrons of literature, and ornaments of the age in which they lived. Dr. John Buckner, who was consecrated in 1798, is the sixty -fifth bishop of Chichester in succession from Stigand. Ecclesiastical and civil Goveiinment.— Sussex is com- prehended in the province of Canterbury and diocese of Chi- chester. It is divided into the two archdeaconries of Chichester and Lewes. To the former belong the deaneries of Chichester, Arundel, Boxgrove, Midhurst, Storrington, and Pagham; and to the latter those of Dallington, Hustings, Lev/es, Pevensey, and South Mailing ; but All Saints, Chichester, and all the parishes in the Deaneries of Pagham and South Mailing, are peculiars of the Archbishop of Canterbury. This county is in the home circuit, pays sixteen parts of the land-tax, and supplies 800 men to the national militia. It sends twenty -eight members to Parliament, two for the county, two for the city of Chichester, two for each of the boroughs of Arundel, Bramber, Horsf^am, East Grinstead, Lewes, Midhurst, Shore- ham, and Steyning ; and two for each of the Cinque Ports of Hastings, Rye, Seaford, and Winchelsea. Roman Stations, Encampments, Roads.— The numerous Roman remains discovered in this county sufficiently attest the occupation of those conquerors. It is pretty generally admitted that the Regnum of Antoninus occupied the site of the present city of Chichester; and several eminent antiquaries have consi- dered Midhurst as the Mida, and East Bourne as tiie Anderisicf or Andcrida of the same people. Respecting the Majifmitojiis^ or Mutuantonis, which must likewise be sought in Sussex, writers are 30 are not agreed. Stukely places it at Chichester, and has given a grouud-plot of that city araong his plates as such. The objec- tion to this opinion is, that Chichester is the Regnum both of Antonine and Richard of Cirencester, and cannot well he both Regnum and Mutuaniotiis. If we consider the order in which the names of the places occur in Ravennas, we shall find his> route pointing south-east from Cirencester in Gloucestershire to Romney in Kent. The Mutuantonis has therefore been fixed with much greater plausibility at Lewes ; for supposing Mida, or Miba, to be rightly fixed at Midhurst, it is much more rea- sonable to suppose that instead of going from that place to Chi- chester/" the passenger, or the soldiers on a march, would pursue a much nearer road into Kent ; and that as soon as they recovered the lop of the Downs from Midliurst, they would edge away to the east, and pass the Arundel river either at Houghton-bridge, or Arundel, thence make the straighest course to the Shorehara jriver by Bramber, and over Beeding-hill by Patcham, Holling- bury, Stanmer, and Falmer, to Lewes, and over the river at Lewes to Giynd and Firle, and so up the Downs to East Bourne, or Anderida. Lewes is situated about half-way between the latter and Mutuantonis, which is clearly a Roman name, compounded of Mutatio, or Mansio, and the British Antin, for a water or river; and a wide w^ater it no doubt was at that time, except just at the point of the Down, v/hich juts forwards towards Cliff-hill, so as almost to meet it, leaving only a narrow pass between for the river and land-floods. In confirmation of this opinion, a mid- die brass se;:;tertiLis of t!ie Emperor Adrian was found in 1771, at Glynd-bridge, near Lewes, in cleansing the sewer there, several feet under tlie soil, upon an artificial ford of considerable width, consisting of fiint-stones, with large oak piles driven in at equal distances to prevent the flint from shi;'ting by land floods. This must have been a Roman work designed to assist the military in crossing the river, which was then probably more covered witli water than at present. This artificial ford cannot be sup- posed to have led from i^nderida to any other place than Lewes, 9 t. SUSSEX. 31 the nearest pass over the broad icstuary which then lay above and below it. The many ancient camps still to be seen on the Downs are an evidence that scarcely any part escaped being a scene of war. Near Chichester, towards the western limits of the connty, we find the Broile on the west side of the city, abont lialf a mile in length, and a quarter in breadth ; of an oblonij: square figure, with a single ditch and a strong rampart. On tlie same side, but at the distance of a mile and a half, is the second, called Gonshill, of the same form as the preceding; and about three miles northward, on Saint Roc3ie*s, or Saint Rook's-hill, is a circular encampment, the diameter exceeding two furlongs, whence it is inferred to have been a work of the Danes. On the northern brow of the Downs, wiiich overlooks the Weald, proceeding from west to east, we meet with the following :— Chenkbury, two miles west of Steyning, is circjilar, its circum^ ference being about two furlongs. At the distance of eight miles from Chenkbury, above Poynings, is a very large camp, of an oval form, not less than a mile round, accessible at one narrow neck only, and that fortified with a deep broad ditch and a very high bank. Three miles farther is Wolstenbury, on a hill pro- jecting beyond the rest of the Downs like a bastion; it is nearly circular, and about a furlong in diameter. Ditchling, three miles from Wolstenbury, occupies the highest hill in that quar- ter, and is nearly square, being about sixty rods in length, and fifty in breadth. The north side is secured by the precipice of the hill, which is steep and very abrupt; tlie other three sides have each their porta, after the manner of the Romans. The ditch seems to have been eleven feet broad; but the ground having been plowed, the bank is but low. A mile and a half from Lewes, on Mount Caburn, is the last of these camps on the northern edge of the Downs. It is round, scarcely three furlongs in cir- cuit; the ditch very broad and deep, and the rampart within of considerable height. About a quarter of a mile westward of this there is another strong work much larger, but not so perfect. The 32 SUSSEX. The camps on the southern border of the Downs are, St. Rook's, aheady mentioned ; High Down, a small square, four miles eastward of Arundel ; Cissbury, four miles south-west of Steyn- ing. The only one in the middle of the Downs is Hollingbury, two miles north of Brighton : it is a square, the porta still re- maining, and contains about five acres. A mile east of the same place, on the top of a hill near the sea, is a camp, which has a triple ditch and bank : this is also a square, only the corners are rounded, and measures on the outside about three quarters of a mile. In the parish of Tellescomb, above five miles from the last, are two camps, both imperfect : the cliflT is a south fence to one; the other is about a mile distant. Their west sides are both finished with very able works ; they were designed for squares, and to contain from twelve to fifteen acres. At Newha- ven, on the point of a hill which overlooks the harbour^s mouth from the west, is a fortification called The Castle ; the banks are very high; the shape near half an oval, containing about six aci'es, but formerly probably more, as the cliff which forms the diftnietcr is yearly mouldering away and falling into the sea. Near a mile east of Seaford is another work also known by the name of The Castle, bounded by the cliff on the south ; of a se- micircular form ; the trench and rampart large, and inclosing twelve acres. Three miles east of Cuckmere Haven, near Bur- ling Gap, is the last, inclosing a hill of a half oval shape ; the works have the same figure and measure, about three quarters of a mile in circuit. The roads from Portsmouth, Midhurst, and Arundel, to Chi- chester, are generciliy considered to be of Roman construction. From tlie last mentioned city the Roman road, commonly called the Stane Street, proceeded in a nortli eastern direction towards Dorking in Surrey, and may still be traced in its progress in many parts of this county. In 1717, a tesselated pavement, bath, and other antiquities, were discovered near Eastbourne. Similar remains have been found at Chichester and at Bignor, very near the Roman road from SUSSEX. 33 from that city ; and coins of the Lower Empire have been dug up in different places. The Rape of Chichester lies on the west side of the county, being bounded on the north by Surrey, on the west by Hampshire, on the south by the English Channel, and on the east by the Rape of Arundel. The upper division comprehends forty-five parishes, and the lower twenty- four. Chichester, which, as the see of a bishop, is dignified with the appellation of a city, and forms a county of itself, gives name to the rape of which it is the capital. It is seated on a gentle eminence, sur- rounded on all sides except the north by the little river Lavant ; and sheltered from the north and north-east winds by part of a range of hills which runs from the Aruu to the borders of Hamp- shire. Few places in Britain can boast of higher antiquity than this city. Its origin is supposed to date back beyond the invasion of Britain by the Romans, when, as some antiquaries assert, it was the capital of the Regni. Horsley adopting this idea, places here, with every appearance of justice, the Rcgnum of the Iti- nerary. So muclrat least is certain from inscriptions, coins^ and other remains discovered at this place, that it was a considerable station of the Romans. Its destruction towards the conclusion of the fifth century by Ella has been already mentioned^ as also the rebuilding of the town by his son, Cissa, the second king of the South Saxons, who named it after himself, and made it the royal residence and capital of his dominions. As such it is reasonable to suppose that it was a flourishing and populous city, when Egbert united in his own person the sovereignty of all the king- doms of the heptarchy. From that period, however, it appears to have declined ; perhaps not only from the removal of the court, Vol. XIV. Z but 34 SUSSEX, but also from the incursions of the Danes, by whom the coasts of Britain were for some centuries cruelly ravaged. Sussex and Chichester, its metropolis, shared the general calamity. The valour and patriotism of the inhabitants of that city, during Alfred^s reigu, are thus recorded by Milton : The Danes re- turning by sea from the siege of Exeter, and in their way landing on the coast of Su.^scx, the men of Chichester sallied out and slew of them many hundreds, taking also some of their ships/^* The removal of the episcopal see from Selsea, where it had been established 300 years, to this city, during the reign of William the Conqueror, proved highly beneficial to Chichester, whicii began again to flourish, and has been in a state of pro- gressive improvement till the present day. Since tliat period Chichester, fortunately, perhaps, for itself, has not been the theatre oj* many of those events that claim a place in the pages of history, of which so large a portion is filled with calamities. The siege which it sustained under Charles I. seems to be the only circumstance worthy of particular record. In the beginning of the civil war, soon after the battle of Edgehill, the king came from the western counties as far as Hounslow, in the hope of terminating the distractions of the country by a cordial peace. While he lay at Reading, a deputa- tion of Sussex gentlemen of rank and fortune waited on him, re- questing his authority to raise tlie southern counties in his behalf. Having obtained the necessary commissions, they pitclied upon Chichester, being a walled town, as the place of their rendezvous. But they were greatly disappointed in their expectations of sup- port from the people, and were joined by very few except their own dependents, and many of these followed with great reluc- tance. Receiving information in the beginning of 1643 that the Parliament had ordered Sir William Waller, with a considerable force, to attack and dislodge them, they strengthened their situa- tion, repaired the fortifications, and erecled some additional works. • Hist, of Engl. p. 'ill. It SUSSEX. It was on this occasion that the bastion on the north walls be- tween the two west lanes was built ; and it appears to have been constructed with the stones of the two small churches of St. Pancras and St. Bartholomew, wliich were demolished, because they stood without the walls. The parliamentary army, however, allowed their opponents but little time to prepare for defence. The city was summoned to surrender ; and, as the order was not complied with, the batteries were opened against it. Besides other da- mage which it then sustained, the north-west tower of the cathe- dral was beaten down, and never since rebuilt. In ten or twelve days the besieged were obliged to capitulate. Chichester obtained its first charter of incorporation from Ste- phen : this was confirmed by Henry II. King John, and subsequent sovereigns ; but the charter from which the corporation received its present constitution was granted by James II. in the first year of his reign. It consists of a mayor, a recorder, aldermen, and common-council, without limitation. The mayor is chosen annually ; three of the aldermen besides him act as justices of the peace within the city, and are authorized to hold a court of record every Monday in the Guildhall, for the decision of all kinds of pleas, plaints, and actions. This city gives the title of Earl to the noble family of Pelham, on whom it was conferred in I80I. It has sent two members to Parliament ever since 23 Edward I. A. D. 1295. They are chosen by the inhabitants at large, that is, by those who pay church and poor rates. There are about 450 electors, besides several honorary freemen, not paying scot and lot, whose votes were notwithstanding declared to be valid by a decision in the Court of King's Bench in 1782, in the cause the late Bryan Edwards, Esq. versus the Hon. Percy Wyndham, by which the election of the latter was confirmed. Five annual fairs are held in tlie city and suburbs: on St. George's Day, Whit-Monday, St. James's Day, Michaelmas old style, and Sloe fair ten days afterwards. Tiie weekly markets ?>re held on Wednesday and Saturday, and are plentifuily sup- Z 2 , plied. 36 SUSSEX. plied. During- the season abundance of oysters are brought to the fish shambles, chiefly from Emsworth; and the neighbouring coast furnishes plenty of lobsters, crabs, prawns, and several other kinds of fish. The beast-market, held every second Wednesday throughout the year for black cattle, sheep, and hogs, is by far the greatest of any in this or the adjacent counties, that of Lon- don alone excepted. The toll of this market, from which black cattle are exempted, produces upwards of 1301. per annum. Chichester is situated near an arm of the sea, which is spa- cious, well sheltered, and capable of receiving vessels of great burden. The eutrrtnce is bounded on the east by the point on which stands the village of Wittering ; and the island of Hayling on the west. The channel is not difficult; but off the mouth of the harbour lU'e sandbanks, which render it impossible for ships of heavy burden to come up except at spring tides. Owing to this cause, an«l to the distance of the city from the quay, the trade of Chichester is not extensive. About the beginning of the reign of James I. an act of Parliament was obtained to remedy this inconvenience, by making the Lavant navigable up to the city, but it was never carried into execution. About the commencement of the fifteenth century the Chi- chester malt began to be in high repute throughout this county and part of Hampshire and Surrey. Several of the malting- houses, which were standing here so late as 1770, bore the mark and characteristic of that age botli in the plan and manner of building : the timbers, likewise, commonly oak, attested their antiquity. This manufacture proved a very valuable article of trade, enriching many individuals, and benefiting the city in general. At what period it began to decline we are not informed ; half a century ago the malting-houses were more numerous than at present, though it had tlien been for some time on the de- crease. Chichester, about two centuries since, nearly, if not wholly, monopolized the trade of needle-making in England. It was principally carried on in the parish of St. Pancras, without the 'east SUSSEX. 37 east gate, where, before the civil war under Cliarles I. almost every house was occupied by a needle-maker. In 1643 this quarter of the town was completely demolished ; and though the houses were afterwards rebuilt, the trade was never perfectly restored. After the revolution manufactories of this article were established at Sheffield and Birmingiiam ; and though their nee- dles were far inferior in quality to those of Chichester, yet being sent to market at a lower price, they obtained a sale on that ac- count alone. The business is now wholly extinct in this city ; which, however, still retains a small woollen fabric. The population of Chichester during the last century has fluc- tuated considerably. In 1739 it contained 4030 inhabitants, who had decreased in 1762 to 3610, who occupied 767 houses. Since that period the number appears to have been steadily rising. The returns of 1801 gave 821 houses, inhabited by 4744 persons; but those of 1811 make the total amount of the popu- lation 6694. Chichester consists of four principal streets, which meet in one common centre, and are named, from their situation, after tlie four cardinal points of the compass. Each of these was formerly closed by a gate, now taken down ; and the whole is slill sur- rounded by a stone wall, which with the bastions, excepting one erected in the seventeenth century, is supposed to have been the work of the Romans. The streets are spacious and well paved. The most conspicuous edifice in this city is the Cathedral, dedicated to the Holy Trinity. On the removal of the episcopal see from Selsea to this place during the reign of William the Conqueror, Hugh de Montgomery, to whom Chichester and Arundel had been granted with the title of earl by that monarch, gave the whole south-west quarter of the city to Bishop Stigand, that he might there buiid a church, a palace for himself and his successors, and habitations for his clergy. The bishop immedi- ately began to make the necessary preparations ; but so com- pletely had the rapacity of the king drained the country of mo- ney, that these preparations proceeded very slowly, and Stigand Z 3 died 38 Sussex. died before he had even laid the foundation. The same cause contiuuing to operate during the life of the Norman and his son Rufus, it does not appear that Godfrey, the second bishop, left matters in much greater forwardness than he found them. In 1091 Ralph was promoted to the see of Chichester; but it was not till Henry I. ascended the throne that he was enabled, under the auspices of that monarch, to acconlplish the work which he had much at heart. The cathedral was finished in 1108, but being built principally of wood, it was destroyed by fire in May, 1114. Ralph immediately commenced tlje re-edification ; and, wilh the assistance of the king, whose favour he enjoyed, he finished this second churcli before his death, wliich happened in 1123. During the episcopacy of Bishop SeriVid, the second of that name, in 1187, another conflagration is said to have destroyed almost the whole city, together with the church and the houses of the clergy ; but from Hovenden, and other chroniclers of those times, it may be inferred that this fire only consumed the roof, and damaged the interior, of the cathedral. It requires but little penetration indeed to perceive that the walls within have been cased witli a thin coat of stone, supported at the intercolumnia- tions by pillars of Petworth marble, in the style of the thirteenth century. Of the same material and age are the pillars which support the upper triforium, though the external arches of the windows are coeval witii the lowest part of tlie church, and are or- namented w ith the billet moulding. As the vaulting of the nave, choir, transept, and side aisles, is of the same date, it is most probable that the church was not vaulted with stone at the time of the fire, hut only ceiled with rafter-work. From these circum- stances i! appears that though the erection of the present edifice from its foundation has been generally attributed to Sefirid, it in reality owes its construction to Bishop Ralph. The plain round arches and pouch-headed pillars caniuot certainly have been in use much later tjian his time. The Chronicle of Winchester says : Dedicata est ecclesia CicestricE a Seffrido ejusdcm loci episcapo 4.D. 1199, 2do idns Septembris : and again : Obiit Seffridus episcopus SUSSEX. p9 tpiscopus CicestricE A. D. 1204; but no mention is made of liiy buildings ; and it can scarcely be supposed tliat bad be erected from its foundation so large an edifice as tbis catbedral, a circum- stance so much to bis lionour would have been omitted, particu- larly as cburcbmen were tbe autbors of those annals. In an an- cient MS. catalogue of the prelates of tbis see, preserved in the arciiives of the dean and chapter, be is thus mentioned : Seffri- dus rc-cedificavit Ciccstriam et domos suns in palatio, but no- thing is said concerning the church. Hence it is natural to infer that he only executed the repairs described above, with the ex- ception of tbe vaulting, and the space between the altar-screen and the entrance into the Lady Chapel, by which space the cathedral has evidently been lengtbened in the work, the style of which indicates a later period of the thirteenth century. In tbis part the arches of the lower triforium are gorgeously orna- mented with different devices ; and tbe upper windows, wbich, as already observed, are circular throughout the rest of the church, {\re here pointed. These repairs and additional build- ings were most probably carried on by Bishop Aquila, and com- pleted by Bishop Pooie, who was the greatest builder of his age. No subsequent alterations have taken place in the church, ex- cepting the insertion of the large west window, and tbe w^indows in the north and south transepts. The latter, which, for ele- gance of tracery and justness of proportion, may vie with any work of the kind in England, was erected at the expense of 3101. by Bishop Langton early in t!ie fourteenth century, and is justly styled in the table of the prelates of this see put up by Bishop Shurborne, magnam et sumptuosam fenestram. It was glazed with painted glass, wbich remained uninjured till destroyed by the fanatics in the great rebellion. The same prelate built the chapter-house, and gave 1001. towards the repair of the church, part of which was probably employed in the erection of tlie oppo- site window in the north transept, which is of the same dimen- sions as tbe other, but more simple in its tracery. In 129;^ Z 4 Lane tovi 40 SUSSEX. Langton was appointed lord-chancellor by Edward I. ; and in 1305 consecrated bishop of this see: being a man of extraordi- nary prudence, he was, in 1310, selected as one of those whose business it was to be near the person of Edward II. and to advise him concerning the government of the kuigdom and of himself. He died iu 1337, after having filled the episcopal chair of Chichester thirty-three years, and lies buried under the great window which he built in the south transept. His tomb was richly ornamented ; and, though much defaced, still retains some traces of its original beauty. The Lady Chapel, at the east end of the cathedral, was built and endowed by William de Sancto Leofardo, the predecessor of Langton. It is an elegant building, but its appearance is much injured by the filling up of its east window, which greatly disfi- gures the view of the cathedral at that end. This chapel is now fitted up with book-cases, containing a considerable collection of valuable works. Beneath it is a spacious vault belonging to the ducal family of Richmond, whose banners are suspended over the entrance, above which is this inscription : Domus ul- tima.* On the south side of the library is the elegant monument of Dr. Edward Waddington, who filled the episcopal chair of Chichester from 1724 to 1731 ; and on the north side of the entrance of the Richmond vault is a black marble tomb, with a mitre and crosier carved on the top, and the words Radvlphvs Episcopvs engraved at the end of it. On the opposite side are two tombs of the same material, and ornamented in the same manner : they are placed side by side, under an arch evidently con- * On this iiiscriplion the late Rev. Mr. Ciarke, a canon residentiary of tl>4 cathedral, composed the following lines: Did he wlio thus inscrib'd this wall Not read or not believe St. Paul, Who says there is — where'er it stands — Another house not made with hands ^ Or may we gather from these words. That house is not a House of Lords? SUSSE5^. 41 constructed long after the tombs which it covers, and which are the monuments of the bishops Seffrid II. and Hilary, his pa- tron. The choir is very richly fitted up ; the stalls are of brown oak, finely carved and gilt, with the names of the dignities and pre- bends painted over them in ancient characters : the misereres are exquisitely carved, and extre mely curious. These stalls were erected by Bishop Shiirborne in the reign of Henrjj VIII. as was also the beautiful altar-screen, constructed of the same materials as the stalls. Above it is a gallery, in which, before the Re- formation, the choir was placed at the celebration of high mass, and which is perhaps almost the only specimen of the kind re- maining in this country. The other parts of the choir are finished in the same style, the whole bearing a strong resemblance to foreign cathedrals, from which Bishop Shurborne probably ac- quired his ideas, since in the early part of his life he passed many years in the service of Henry VII. as ambassador to foreign courts. This prelate also caused the paintings in the south transept to be executed by Bernard i, an Italian artist, or, as some assert, but without any degree of probability, by Holbein. The first exhibits the interview between Wilfrid and Ceadwalla, in which the latter is represented as the person who granted the island of Selsea to Wilfrid, whereas it is evident, both from Bede and William of Malmsbury, that it was Adelwalch, king of the South Saxons, who founded that church. Wilfrid, attended by his clergy, is seen coming to the kisig, who stands at the en- trance of his palace, surrounded by his courtiers, and addressing him in these words, inscribed on a scroll : Da servis Dei locum habitationis propter Deum. Ceadwalla's answer, which is on an open book, held by an attendant, is : Fiat sicut pctitur. In the back-ground is represented the peninsula of Selsea, the parish church, as it remains to this day, and the sea, bounded by the blue hills of the Isle of Wight. The subject of the other piece is the interview between Henry VIII. and Bishop Shurborne, The latter addresses tlie king in these words, written on a scroll : f Sane- 42 SUSSEX. Sanctissime rex, propter Deimi decora ecclesiam tuam Cices- trenscju jam cathedralem, sicut CeadwaUa rex Sussex ecclesiam Selese olim cathedralem decoravit. Henry's answer, inscribed on an open book, is as follows : Pro amore xe* quod petis con- ccdo, Shurborne is attended by his clergy in the same manner as St. Wilfrid ; the king is standing at the entrance of the palace ■with his attendants ; and, by an anachronism not uncommon in the paintings of those days, his father, Henry VII. is placed on his right hanJ. These pictures are finely executed, and are ex- tremely valuable as representations of the ^ecclesiastical and lay cosiume of that age. On the north side of ihe same transept are the portraits of all the kings of England, from William the Conqueror to George I. some of which are well executed, particularly those of Queen Mary, Elizabeth, James I. and Charles I, The south side is adorned with the portraits of all the bishops of Selsea aud Chi- chester till the Reformation. Under each prelate is a short ac- count of him brought down by Bishop Shurborne to his own time, since which only John Christopherson, the last Catholic bishop, has been added. These paintings contribute greatly to the embellishment of this part of the church, which, as the tran- septs have no side aisles, would otherwise be too plain. It is not improbable that Bernardi painted the vaulting of the church, which appears to have been executed with great bold- Bess of colouring : the ornaments are flowers, and the arras of the founders and benefactors of the church, with scrolls of writing under each. The arms of William of Wykeham are frequently repeated with his motto : " Manners makyth Man'' — and this addition : Quod William Wykeham. Bishop Shurborne also founded four prebends in this church, and increased the number of choristers. He died in 1536, and is buried in the north aisle of the choir under a white marble mo- Tiument, on which lies his effigies dressed in the pontifical habit. The figure and tomb were richly adorned ; but they were much defaced by the republicans. The arms still remain with the foU lowing SUSSEX. 43 lowing inscription : Ne hit res in judicium cum servo tuo, Do- mine, Robert Siivrborne. The chantry of St. Richard, formerly Bishop of Chichester, stands in the south transept of the cathedral at the back of the stalls. It is a beautiful shrine of Gothic workmanship, consist- ing of three elegant ciuquefoil arches, ornamented with crockets and afinial. Tiie arches spring from dragons, and other grotesque figures, which are now greatly mutilated, and are separated by a slender butment, terminating with a pinnacle. Above the grand arches is a range of small ones, with cinquefoil heads, sur- mounted with a cornice and foliage. The roof within is groined, having key-stones and roses at the intersections. The tomb of the saint stands upon the pavement in the middle of the chantry ; its sides are enriched with pointed arches alternately wide and narrow ; and the figure of St. Richard, which lies on the tomb, is in tolerable preservation, considering the liavoc made here by the emissaries of Cromwell. His shrine was visited by the Ca- tholics, even since the Restoration, on his anniversary, the 3d of April. This prelate, surnamed de la Wich, was a Dominican friar, who, having ingratiated himself into the favour of the court of Rome, was admitted into the secular clergy, and conse- crated hiishop of this see in 1245. He is recorded to have v>'rought many miracles, particularly to have fed 3000 people in a miracu- lous manner. He died in 1253, in his 56Lh year, and was cano- nized by the Pope. In the north side aisle of the choir is a marble monument, with the effigies of a bishop ; but the inscription is taken away, and the arms have been defaced. It is supposed to be the tomb of Adam Molins, slain at Portsmouth, in 1449, at the instigation of Richard, Duke of York. Behind the high altar are two plain tombs, one of wliich is said to be Bishop Story's, and the other m: y be that of Bishop Day, who died in 1556. These, with the monument of Bishop .Tohn Arundel, who died in 147^,. are the only tombs of prelates prior to the Reformation, now remaining in tiiis church. It con- li tains 44 SUSSEX. tains many sepulchral stones, some of them of immense size, whicli were formerly adorned with brasses of bishops, under stately canopies, as may still be traced by the places in which the brasses were inlaid. Many of these stones were probably re- moved from the choir into their present situation in the nave and side aisles, about sixty years since, when the choir was paved with black and white marble. The republicans stripped the brass from these and all the other monumental stones in the church, which have been very numerous. The nave of this catiiedral is remarkable for having what ap- pears to be a double aisle on each side; but these additional aisles are of later construction than the others, and were evi- dently divided into many chantries and chapels, in some of which are piscinas and tracss of the altars formerly erected in thf3m : in one of those on the north side is an ancient mo- nument, with the effigies of a man in armour, and a lady at his feet. This is commonly supposed to be the tomb of one of the Earls of Arundel, and appears to have been removed hither from some other situation; tlie head of the figure reposes on a coronet ; and on the breast is a lion rampant, the arms of that illustrious house. Opposite to this monument is a neat tablet, executed by Flaxman, and erected by public subscrip- tion, to the memory of the unfortunate poet, William Col- lins, who was born and died in this city. He is represented as just recovered from a fit of phrensy, to which he was sub- ject, and in a calm and reclining posture seeking refuge from his misfortunes in the consolations of the Gospel, while his lyre, and one of his first poems, lie neglected on tlie ground. Above are the figures of Love and Pity, entwined in each other's arms. Underneath are these lines, the joint composition of Willian* Ilayley cind John Sargent, Esquires: Ye who the merits of the dead revere, ■\Vho hold misfortune sacred, genius dear. Regard this tomb, where CoUins, hapless name! Solicits kindness with a double claim. Though SUSSEX. Though nature gave him, and though science taught The fire of fancy, and the reach of thought, Severely doom'd to penury's extreme. He past in madd'ning pain life's feverish dream ; While rays of genius only scrv'd to shew The thick'ning horror and exalt his woe. Ye walls that echoed to his frantic moan. Guard the due record of this grateful stone ; Strangers to him enamour'd of his lays. This fond memorial of his talents raise ; For this the ashes of a bard require. Who touch'd the tenderest notes of Pity's lyre. Who join'd pure faith to strong poetic pow'rs. Who in reviving reason's lucid hours. Sought on one book his troubled mind to rest. And rightly deem'd the book of God the best." In the cloisters is interred William Chillingworth, an emi- nent divine of the 17th century, and the celebrated champion of the Church of England against that of Rome. He was taken prisoner by the Parliamentary forces at Arundel, and brought to Chichester, wheie, after a short illness, he expired in the episco- pal palace. His epitaph is as follows :— Virtuti Sacrum, Spe certissima resurrectionis. Hie reducem expectat animam, GuLiELMUS Chillingworth A. M. Oxonii natus et educatus, Collegii Sanctae Trinitatis Socius, Decus et Gloria ; Omni litterarum genere celeberrimus ; Ecclesiae Anglicanaj adversus Romanam Propugnator invictissimus ; Ecclesiae Salisburiensis Cancellarius dignissimus. Sepultus Januar. mense A. D. I64f, Sub hoc mar more requiescit, Nee seutit dnmna sepulcri. The. 46 SUSSEX. The north transept is used as a parish church, and dedicated to St. Peter. Tlie vaulting of the chancel in this part is a curious specimen of the highly pointed arches of the 13ih century, orna- mented with the Saxon zigzag. On the outside of it is left some portion of a building, which appears to have been the habitation of some chantry priests : the door by which they are supposed to have decended into ttie church to perform their offices still re- mains. The spire, 297 feet in height, is of stone, and adorned with pinnacles at its base. Its style fixes the date of its erection about the middle of the 13th ceiitury ; and tradition ascribes its con^ strnction to the same workmen who reared the spire of Salisbury cathedral. In 1721, it was struck by lightning, when several large stones were dislodged : one in particular, weighing near three quarters of a hundred weight, was thrown over the houses in West Street without doing any damage in its descent. No- thing less than the fall of the spire, and the consequent destruc- tion of a considerable part of the church, was apprehended ; but on a survey, it was found, that though a considerable breach had been made about forty feet from tlie top, yet the remainder of the building was firm and compact. It was soon so completely re- paired that no traces of the injury can now be discoTered. At the north-west corner of the cliurch is a strong square tower, with four turrets and a lanthorn, containing a ring of eight musical bells. It is not known by whom it was erected, though Camden relates, that William Ryman, being forbidden by Ed- ward II. to build a castle lor himself at the neighbouring village of Appledrara, employed the materials which he had collected for the purpose in this erection. As no mention of such a cir- cnmstuiice is made in the records of the church, it is surmised that Bishop Langton might have purchased the stones for this use. The architecture of the tower is evidently in the style of his time ; before it was built the bells hung in the tower of the spire, though it was scarcely calculated to support their weight. Diu'iug the short siege of Chichester by the Parliamentary troop R SUSSEX. 47 troops in 1643, the other tower of the cathedral was thrown down, and the great west window demolished : but this accidental mis- chief was far exceeded by the wanton havoc committed by those fanatics. No sooner had they entered the city than, by the or- ders of their commander. Sir William Waller, they fell to work to despoil the sacred edifice. They broke down the organ, and defaced the ornaments in the choir; they overthrew the tombs in the chufch, which they stripped of their brasses; they plun- dered the sacramental plate; and tore all the bibles, service, and singing-books, scattering the leaves over the church and church- yard. The altar, both in the cathedral and sub-deanery, or parish church in the north transept, they broke down, and de- stroyed the pulpit, pews, and, in short, every thing that was not proof against their pole-axes. In 1647, or 1648, another party, under the command of Sir Arthur Haslerig, was sent hither by Cromwell, to finish the work of devastation, which, as it was alledged, their predecessors had left incomplete. These, after destroying all the repairs which piety had made, proceeded to the chapter-house, the door of which being locked, they forced open with iron crows ; and, after seizing tlie public money belong- ing to the church, demolished every thing, even tearing down the wainscot of the rooms. The episcopal palace shared the same fate, as did also the deanry, the houses of the canons, vicars, and others belonging to the church. This cathedral has been for secular canons from tiie time of its erection, and was therefore not changed by Henry VIII. The foundation consists of a dean, precentor, chancellor, treasurer, two archdeacons, thirt)' prebendaries, four of whom, having always been ca'Ued to residence, are styled canons residentiary, four vicars, and a sufficient choir. The dimensions of the various parts of this cathedral are as follow :— total length from east to west, including the Lady Chapel, 410 feet; of the transepts from north to south, 227 ; the breadth of the choir, and side at the east end 62 ; of the nave and. 48 SUSSEX. and aisles, which have four rows of pillars 92 ; the height of the vaulting 63 ; of the spire 297, and of the bell-tower 120. The cloisters, which are situated on the south side of the church, and have been much injured by the filling up of the lower range of windows, form a quadrangle, the south side of which measures 120; the east 128; and the west side 100 feet. Within the walls of the city there are six parish churches: St. Peter the Great, also called the Suhdeanry, within the ca- thedral ; St. Peter the Less, St. Olave's, St. Martin's, St. An- dreiv^s, and A/I Saints. Without the east gate is a seventh, de- dicated to St. Pancras ; and without the west gate the parish of St. Bartholomew, which has only a burial-ground, the church, together wit!i that of St. Pancras, having been demolished in the seventeenth century, when the city was besieged by Sir William Waller. fn 1802 and 1803, St. Martin's was repaired, or rather re* built, at an expense of 17001. through the munificence of Mrs. Dear, The fabric,' though solid and strong, is not heavy, and is a good imitation of the Gothic style of architecture. The Bishop's Palace underwent a thorough repair in 1725, when it was considerably enlarged and improved. In digging the foundation for the new buildings several coins of Nero and Domitian, and a curious Roman pavement, were found by the work- men; from which, and other circumstances, it is conjectured, that the mansion of the Roman proprietors once occupied this spot. The work of Bishop Sherborne is still very visible in many parts of this edifice, particularly in the magnificent dining-room, which has a fine ceiling divided into compartments, and adorned with the arms and devices of that prelate, and the principal fa- milies of the county. The present bishop has adorned the win- dow of tills room w'lVn painted glass, and repaired and ornamented the whole palace, which was very much dilapidated on his ac- cession to the government of this diocese. The chapel is a beautiful building, erected in the 13th century; but some of the windows SUSSEX. 49 windows were inserted at a later period. The gardens, which liave the advantage of a fine terrace-walk on that part of the city walls inclosed hy them are tastefully planted and laid out. The Deanrij is a handsome and convenient edifice, huilt by the celebrated Sherlock, when dean of this cathedral : it is pleasantly situated, as are also the houses of the residentiaries, all of which have good gardens, with terrace walks on the city walls. In the residence of the Rev. Mr. Marwood, the senior canon, is a Saxon door with a zigzag ornament, conjectured to be a relic of tlie mo- nastery of St. Peter, which existed here prior to the erection of the cathedral. The Canon-gate, which leads into the Close, was erected about the time of Bishop Langton. Near it is the entrance into the Vicar's Close, where, at the north side of the quadrangle, are some fine remains of the refectory. It is the general opinion that the structure called the Friari/, situated near the north gate, was originally built by Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Chichester, who, on receiving from the king the grant of the city, pitched on this spot as a proper place on which to erect a castle for his residence, and caused it to be marked out and walled round to the extent of ten acres. Mr. Hay, however, questions the correctness of this tradition. Every person,'' sa}s he the least acquainted with ancient architec- ture, on viewing the Friary in its present state, will be convinced that a considerable part of the building still remaining is of higher antiquity than the Conquest. In several places, in the old building, the walls are of flint, the arches a kii^d of ellipses, and turning down at each end in an angle, some more, some less, from 100 to 130, and 140 degrees. Many of the windows, and some of the door-places, have the Gothic arch inclosed in a square, or long square. Other circumstances join to prove the superior antiquity of the Friary. The wall which separates the precinct from the city is built in the same manner, and of like materials as the city walls, v;hich are confessedly of Roman fabrication; that the mount, whoever made it, was raised in order to erect a Vol. XIV. 2 A tower, * Hbt. ofChich. p. 210. 50 SUSSEX. tower, or citadel, on it is plain; the foundations may be traced all round the top, except the part opposite to the glacis; the mortar, or rather cement, is as hard as the stones themselves/^ The site of the mount too, on the spot most proper to defend the lines, the same writer considers as a satisfactory proof of its having been raised by the Romans ; and hence concludes that the military of- ficers were stationed in this north-east quarter of the city. From the nature of some part of the ground in the park, or paddock, it is evident that the castle of Earl Roger, witli its appurte- nances, occupied a great deal more room than the present building. After the expulsion of that family the lordship of the city was vested in the Albinis, Earls of Arundel; and, in 1233, was given by William, the fourth Earl, to the Grey Friars of the order of St. Francis, by whom it was occupied as a convent till the Dissolution ; after which Henry VIII. in his thirty second year, A. D. 1541, granted it to the mayor and citizens of Chichester, by whom it was leased for 999 years, excepting the chapel, which was converted into a Gaildliall, and used as such ever since. It is a spacious, but by no means mag- nificent, structure. In digging a few years since close to the hustings, in order to erect galleries for the grand and petit ju- ries, the workmen found the bones of some of the friars who had been interred there near the altar; but no other relic of aay kind was discovered. Considerable remains of the conventual buildings, of the same age as tlie chapel, existed a few years since ; but they were re- moved to make room for more convenient offices to the residence of Admiral Frankhind. The wall, which inclosed the precinct of the monastery, still remains; it comprehends a space of about tea acres, forming a very pleasant park, within which is the mount mentioned in the preceding quotation from Mr. Hay. The Council-chamber in North Street was erected in 1733, by subscription, to which the Duke of Somerset, then higii steward of the city, gave 100 guineas. It is raised on arcades, and the ornamental part of the building is of the Ionic order. Cottti- SUSSEX. 61. Contiguous to the Council Chamber is the Assembly Roonif likewise built by subscription, about 1781. It is an elegant, spacious, well proportioned room, fifty-nine feet in length, in- cluding the recess, thirty-two in breadth, and twenty-eight in height. Here assemblies are held every fortnight during the winter season, and also occasional concerts, for the benefit of which an organ was some years since erected by John Marsh, Esq. a gentleman of this city, well known to the musical world by the many excellent compositions which he has published. The Theatre, which stands at the lower end of South Sti'eet, was rebuilt in 1791, by Mr. Andrews of Chichester. Its exterior has some pretensions to elegance ; within it is roomy and con- venient. The Custom House is in the West Street, having been some years since removed thither from St. Martinis Square. The Cross stands in the centre of the city, at the intersection of the four principal streets. According to ttie inscription upon it this cross was built by Edward Story, who was translated to this see from that of Carlisle, in 1475. It was repaired during the reign of Charles II. and at the expense of the Duke of Rich- mond, in 1746; though we are told that Bishop Story left an estate at Amberley worth full 251. per annum to keep it in con- stant repair ; but a few years afterwards the mayor and corpora- tion sold it in order to purchase another nearer home. The date of the erection of this structure is not mentioned in the inscrip- tion ; but, from the style and ornaments, it must be referred to the time of Edward IV. This cross is universally acknowledged to be one of \he most elegant buildings of the kind existing in Eng- land. Its form is octangular, having a strong hutment at each angle, surmounted with pinnacles. On each of its faces is an entrance through a pointed arch, ornamented with crockets and a finial. Above this, on four of its sides, is a tablet, to commemo- rate its reparation in the reign of Charles IT. Above each tablet is a dial exhibiting the hour to each of the three principal streets; the fourth being excluded from this advantage by stand- 2 A 2 ing 53 SUSSEX. ing' at an angle. In the centre is a large circular column, the basement of wliicli forms a seat : into this column is inserted a number of groinings, ^vhich, spreading from the centre, form th* <^roof beautifully moulded. The central column appears to con- . tinue through the roof, and is supported without by eight flying buttresses, which rest on the several corners of the building. Till a few years since this Cross was used as a market-place, but the increased population of the city requiring a more extensive area for that purpose, a large and convenient Market-house was, about the year 1807, erected in the North Street, on the completion of which, it was proposed to take down this Cross, then considered as a nuisance. Fortunately, hov/ever, the city was exempted from the reproach of such a proceeding, by the public spirit of some of the members of the corporation, who purchased several houses on the north side of the Cross, in order to widei^ that part of the street by their demolition. The Grammar School, in West Street, was founded by Bishop Story in 1497, for the education of the sons of freemen of thft city, and endowed with the prebend of Highly, in the gift of the dean and chapter. In tlie same street is also the Free-School, founded in 1702, by Oliver Whitby, with a particular regard to navigation, and en- dowed with lands to maintain a master and twelve boys ; four of Chichester, four from West Wittering, and four from Harting. Besides these seminaries the city has two Charity Schools, one for clothing and educating twenty -two poor boys, and twenty girls; and the other for the instruction of thirty boys. Among the benevolent institutions of Chichester, the most an- cient is St. Mary's Hospital, situated in St. Martin's Square. It is said to have been originally a nunnery, founded by William, fifth dean of the cathedral in 1173, or 1174 ; but at what period, or on what occasion, it was converted into a hospital for indigent persons, it is impossible to ascertain. Its annual revenues, at the Dissolution, were valued at 111. lis. 6d. The buildings of ' the hospital, in their present state, consist of a spacious refectory, adjoining. SUSSEX. 53 adjoining to which, on eitlier side, are the apartments of tlie brethren and sisters. At the cast end is the cliapel, about forty feet long, and twenty wide ; liaving a lofty coved ceiling and Gothic windows. Frouj the style of its architecture it must have > been rebuilt about 1407, when there occurs an episcopal mandate for its consecration. It contains stalls for the members; and near the altar is a very fine piscina, and a richly sculptured stone shrine, with stalls for the priest, deacon, nnd sub-deacon. The present members are six poor women, and two poor men. The af- fairs of this hospital have been ever since its foundation under the management of the dean and chapter of Chichester ; and the dean is the present warden. Just without the nortli^gate stands the Worlc-house of the city, the parishes of which weie united by Act of Parliament, in 1753, since which time the poor are here maintained under the su- perintendance of thirty guardians, who are incorporated by the same act, aud annually chosen at Easter by the respective parishes. In 1772, Mr. John Hardham, a tobacconist in London, a native of Chichester, left by his will the interest of all his estates to the guardians of the poor, "to ease the inhabitants in their poor-rates for ever.'* This valuable legacy amounting to 6531, per annum was subject to the life of the housekeeper of the testator, so that it was not till 1786 that it reverted to the city. The Dispensary for the relief of the sick poor, supported by annual subscription, was originally established in 1784, chiefly through the humane exertions of the Rev. Mr. Walker and Dr. Sanden. About 1772, or 1773, the north, west, and south gates were taken down to improve the city. The east gate, because it sup- ported the city gaol, was not demolished till 1783, when a new Gaol was erected on the soutii side of the place which that gate had occupied. y Besides the convent of Grey Friars and St. Mary's Hospital, Chichester anciently contained other religious and benevolent in- 2 A 3 slitulion*, 54 SUSSEX. stitutioiis, of which no traces now exist. A monastery dedicated to St. Peter is said to have stood on the site of the cathedral be- fore tlie translation of the episcopal chair from Selsea; and men- tion is made of a nunnery here of great antiquity. Eleanor, queen of Edward I. is recorded as the foundress of a convent for Black Friars, dedicated to St. Mary and St. Vincent ; and as early as Richard I. there was a hospital for lepers, dedicated to James and St. Mary Magdaleri, and valued at the Dissolution at 41. 3s. 9d, per annum. Chichester, according to Mr. Hay, contains other remains of Roman architecture besides those in the Friary already noticed. Among these I reckon,^' says he, " the Canon- gate, and some of the contiguous building. Bishop Sherborne, indeed, repaired the gate-way, and placed his arms upon it, but that was all; the foundation and the greatest part of the superstructure are evidently Roman : so also are the vaults in the South Street, at present fI804) in the occupation of Mr. Redman, wine-merchant, with the uildings over them, for a considerable way towards the cloisters, including the old concert-room/^ * One of the most remarkable relics of the Romans discovered at this place was an inscription, now preserved at Goodwood, the seat of the Duke of Richmond. It was found in 1723, under the corner house on the north side of St. Martinis Lane, about four feet below tlie surface of the ground, close to the two stone walls three feet thick, which united in an angle, and probably belonged to the temple mentioned in the inscription. The stone upon which it is engraved is of grey Susjsex marble, and seems to have been about six feet long, by two and three quarters broad. The letters beautifully and exactly drawn, are capitals from 2\ to 3 inches long. It is thus read and supplied by Gale: — Neptuno et Minervae Templura pro Salute domus divinie et auctoritate Tiberii Claudii Cogidubni regis legati Augusti in Bri- tamiia. Collegium fabrorum et qui in eo sodales, de sue dedicave- runt, donante aream Pudente Pudentini filio. Another * Hist, of Cbich. 212, 213. SUSSEX. 65 Another inscription was found in a cellar in East Street, very near tlie same spot as the preceding-. The stone is of the same kind of Sussex marble, the letters of the like size and cut, and very beautiful. Mr. Gale reads it thus : Neroni Clalldio Divi Claudii Aug. F. Gernianici Cjbs, Nepoti. Ti. Goes. Aug. pronepoli. Div. Aug. Abnepoti. Casari. Aug. Germ. R. R. P. IV. Imp. V. Cos. IV. Solvi curaTit votura merito. The name of the dedicator is wanting. William JuxoN,who, in the 17th century attained the highest station in the English church, was born in 1582, at Chichester. He received his education at Merchant Taylors' School in Lon- don, and St. John's College, Oxford, of which he was elected master in 1621, and a few years afterward executed the office of vice-chancellor of the University. For some time he applied himself to the study of the civil law ; but at the wish of Dr. Laud, to whom he owed his subsequent preferments, he directed his attention to divinity. In 1633, he was nominated to the Bishopric of Hereford ; but before his consecration was removed to the see of London. In 1635, his patron procured his appoint- ment to the office of lord high treasurer, which gave great um- brage to the nobility, though it was acknowledged that he exe- cuted that important office with exemplary ability and integrity. He enjoyed to the last the favour of his sovereign, whom he at- tended on the scaffold. Being soon afterwards deprived of his bishopric he retired to a small estate in Gloucestershire, where he resided till the Restoration, wlien he was elevated to the archi- episcopal see of Canterbury, whicli he enjoyed only three years, dying in 1663, in his 81st year. He was a learned man, a pious 2 A 4 divine. 56 {SUSSEX. divine, a faithful counsellor, an enemy to all persecution ; so amiable in his manners, and so inoffensive in his life, that even in the times of intolerant fanaticism he was suffered, by a courtesy granted to very few, to worship God according to the dictates of his own conscience. * Thomas Bradwardine, descended from an ancient family once settled at Bradwardine, in Herefordshire, was born in or near Chichester. He was educated at Merton College, where he became a great mathematician, and so learned a divine, that he was commonly styled Docto'^ Profundus. He was confessor to Edward III. and in July 1349, was promoted to the see of Can- terbury, but died in December following. His work, De Causa Dei, acquired him considerable celebrity. The brothers William, George, and John Smith, who at- tained great eminence as landscape painters, were born near Guildford, in Surrey ; but removed so very young to Chichester, where they resided the rest of their lives, that they have been generally considered as natives of this city. William obtained the first premium offered by the Society of Arts, in London, and John the second. Several of their performances were engraved by Woollett. John died in July 1764, aged forty-seven ; William in Sepember, the same year, aged fiity-seven; and George in 1776, in his 63d year. They are all interred in the church-yard of St. Pancras, Chichester. William Collins, whose fame as a poet can never die, was born in 1720, in the house now occupied by Mr. Mason, prin- ter and bookseller. His father, a reputable hatter, who served the office of mayor of Chichester in 1733, in the following year, placed his son at Winchester College, where he was educated by Dr. Burton, In 1 740, he became a commoner of Queen's Col- lege, Oxford ; but was soon elected a demy of Magdalen College, where he remained till he had taken his bachelor's degree. He quitted the University, where he was distinguished for genius and indolence, about 1744, and at the desire of his maternal uncle, Lieu- • See Bc.iutics, Vol. VIII. p. 817. SUSSEX. 57 Lieutenant Colonel Martin, of Grey's regiment of foot, lie joined him in Flanders. This officer would have provided for Collins in his own profession ; but this did not suit the inclination of the latter, who now turned his thoughts to the churcii, but soon abandoned that idea. He repaired to London, a literary ad- venturer," says Dr. Johnson, " with many projects in his head, and very little money in his pocket. He designed many works, but his great fault was irresolution. He planned several trage- dies ; but he only planned them. He wrote, now and then, odes, and other poems, and did something, however little.'' In 1746, he published his Odes descriptive and allegorical ; but the sale of this work not at all corresponding with its merit, he indig- nantly burned the remaining copies. In 1748, his uncle died, and left him about 20001. ; but soon after he was attacked with a nervous disorder, attended with depression of spirits, which re- duced him to the most deplorable weakness, both of body and mind. From this stale death at length relieved him, in 1759, in his thirty-ninth year. He expired in the house of his sister, Mrs. Sempill, at Chichester, and was interred in St. Andrew's church, in this city. The character given of him by Dr. Johnson ^ is iiighly honourable to the memory of his unfortunate friend. MiDHURST, a populous and tolerably well built town, seated near the river Aran, is generally considered as the Milba, or, as it is written by other antiquaries, the Mida of the Romans. So much is cer- tain, that from Domesday-book it appears to have been a con- siderable place at the time of the Norman Conquest. Here was for some ages seated one of the numerous branches of the family of Bohun, who took the title of baron from this town, but since the time of Henry VIII. tiie manor belonged till of late to the Brownes, Viscounts Montague. Midhurst is a borough by prescription, having sent ever since 4 Edward * Lives of ll^c Eiii;li!>!) I'ocH. SUSSEX. 4 Edward 11. two members to Parliament, who are elected hy the burgage-holders. The burgages belonged for many years to the Viscounts Montague, one of whom caused some of the houses to be taken down to make room for part of the wall of Cowdray Park ; and in this wall placed stones with numerals en- graved on them to identify the site of the burgages. This cir- cumstance occasioned a late noble Duke (then professing to be a reformer) to observe, that " so low was the elective franchise fallen, that at Midhurst the very stones appeared as voters for members of Parliament.'^ This sarcasm, upon investigating the subject, will be found to have little else than splenetic pleasantry in it, and to convey no disgrace to the borough of Midhurst iu particular; for, bold as the assertion may appear to the ears of modern reformers, the right of election in the borough of Mid- hurst is the only radical right of election sanctioned by the con- stitution. These burgage tenures, about 120 in number, were sold by the trustees of the last Viscount Montague, as it is said, for 40,000 guineas to the Earl of Egremont, who afterwards dis- posed of them to Lord Carrington, the present owner The go- vernnjent of the town is vested in a bailitf, chosen annually at the court-leet of the manor. It has a weekly market on Thurs- day, and three yearly fairs, on April 5th, Whit-Tuesday, and Oc- tober 29th. The population of the town and parish, in 1801, amounted to 1073. The church, a small tower building of stone, is situated in the middle of the town. It has nothing remarkable except the burial- place of the Montague family, on the south side near the chan- cel, in the middle of which is a large rich monument, or rather pile of monuments, inclosed hy iron rails. It consists of a mar- ble altar-tomb, upon which are placed two full-sized recumbent liguies of women in the rich cloaks and dress of the limes, with rufis round their necks, and their heads resting on pillows ; at the feet of o:ie an unicorn chained, the other being destroyed. Round one side of the monument are two men in armour, and two women * From a coimnuiiicatioa of Mr. Uicliaid Watts of Lewes. SUSSEX. 59 women kneeling; and on the other one man and two women, but much mutilated, some without heads, others without limbs. At each end are splendid coats of arms with innumerable quarterings. On the top of the altar-tomb is raised another upon three arches, also of mixed marble curiously gilt and ornamented. Upon this is the figure of an old man with a formal beard, in rich gilt ar- mour and cloak kneeling on a cushion before a s(|uare altar, round and below which are inscriptions in Roman capitals, informing us that here was interred Anthony Browne Viscount Montacute, chief standard bearer of England, and Knight of the Garter, with his two wives. Lady Jane Ratcliffe, daughter of Robert, Earl of Sussex, and Magdalen, daughter of William Lord Dacre. This nobleman having served the Queens Mary and Elizabeth in various capacities both civil and military, died at Horsley in Surrey, in 1592, in his 66th year. Against the soutli wall is a small marble monument, with two Corinthian pillars, between which are the kneeling figures of a man in armour, but without head, and of a woman, which seems to have been brought hither from some other place. Under the latter is a long metrical inscription, from which we gather that the person for whom this memorial was erected was Joan, wife of Francis Browne, and that she died in 1584. Above all are the arms with many quarterings. In the Town-Hall the quarter-sessions for the county were formerly held once a year, but that practice is now disused. The Free Grammar School for twelve boys was founded in 1672 by Gilbert Hannam. On St. Anne*s-hill near the town there are strong indications of an ancient building, supposed to have been the residence of the Bohuns, once lords of this manor : it has had three fosses, the lowest of which was formed by the river that runs on the east side of the hill. About a quarter of a mile eastward of Midhurst are situated the picturesque ruins of Coivdr ay-house, once the magnificent seat t of 60 SUSSEX. of the noble family of Montague. They stand in a valley betwee?t two well wooded hills, near the banks of the Arun, which runs lelw^een tliem through an extensive park, containing some of the finest chesnut trees in England. Cowdray and tlie manor of Midhurst belonged to Margaret t^oiintess of Salisbury, daughter of George Duke of Clarence, •who was attainted of high treason 31 Henry VIII. and two years afterwards beheaded in the Tower, at the age of seventy-two^ because certain bulls from Rome were found in her mansion here, and it was thought that an insurrection in Yorkshire had been occasioned through the instigation of her son. Cardinal Pole. Her estates having in consequence devolved to the crown,' Cow- dray was given in exchange for other lands, to the heirs of John Nevill, Marquis Montague ; and, upon the division of his pos- sessions, fell to Lucy, his fourth daughter, who first married Sir Thomas Fitzwilliam, of Aldwarke, in the county of York ; and 'afterwards Sir Anthony Browne, great standard-bearer of Eng- land. Her son, William Fitzwilliam, Earl of Southampton, built the present mansion, as appears by his arms and other devices displayed in its various parts ; but dying without issue 34 Henry VIII. this estate went to his maternal brother, Sir Anthony Browne, from wiiom t'le late possessor. Viscount Montague, was lineally descended. Edward VI. in a letter to his friend, Fitz- patrick, calls it " a goodly house of Sir Anthony Browne's, where we were marvelously, yea rather excessively banketted/' It was built in the form of a quadrangle, with the principal front towards the west, in the centre of which was the gate flanked by two towers. The east side contained the chapel, hall, and dining- parlour. The chapel was superbly fitted up, and had an altar- piece of peculiar beauty. The hall was decorated with paintings ©f architecture by Roberti, and statues by Goupe : at the upper end w j^s a buck standing, carved in brown wood, having on the shoulder a shield with the arms of England, and under it the arms of Browne, with many quarterings, carved in wood. There wci c ten other bucks, as large as life, standing, sitting, and lying, 9 Tsomc SUSSEX. 61 some with small banners of arms supported by their feet. This Jiall and stair-case were painted by Pellegrini, with the story of Tancred and Clorinda from Tasso, The parlour received its em- bellishments from Holbein, or some of his scholars. On the south of the quadrangle was a long- gallery, in which were painted the twelve apostles as large as life ; and on the north side was another gallery, containing many whole-length pictures of the family in their proper habits ; likewise four historical pieces, two copies of Raphael's marriage, Cupid and Psyche, and several old religious and military paintings from Battle Abb-ey. The apart- ments were all stately, well furnished and adorned with pictures* by the best masters. In the break fa '>t- room was a cabinet full of very curious pieces of ivory work, consisting of small and deli- cate flowers, turned by one of the owners of this house, who used to amuse himself with such work ; and in one of the rooms was a picture representing him at his turning-wheel. The pictures painted on the walls were preserved during the civil war in the time of Charles I. by a coat of plaster laid over the stucco ; when one of the officers quartered here, exercising his weapon against the wall, broke out from one of the subjects the head of Henry VIII. which was afterwards replaced. This beautiful edifice, with most of its valuable contents, w^as destroyed by fire in the night of the 24th of September, 1793. Of this unfortunate accident the following account is given by Mr. Gough : — Mrs. Chambers, the housekeeper, who, with the porter, and one or t>vo more servants, were the only inhabitants of this spacious mansion, had retired to rest at eleven, her usual liour, in full confidence that all was safe, and not the smallest light was to be seen. She had scarcely slept an hour, before she was alarmed by the watchman with the cry of fire in the north gallery, and immediately saw it in flames, with all its valuable contents, without the possibility of saving a single ar- ticle. The inhabitants of Midhurst were soon ready to assist in great numbers ; and no help was wanting to remove the furniture, pictures, and library^ from the three other sides of the qimdrauf 8'<^ i 62 SUSSEX. gle; but the firmness of the materials rendering it impossible to break clown any part so as to stop the progress of the flames, they quickly spread to the east of the court, in which was th§ great hall, chapel, and dining-parlour. These there was oppor- tunity to unfurnish, and to save the altar-piece bv Annigoni ; but the historical paintings on the walls of the dining-parlour were involved in the devastation, and the stucco on which they were painted flaked off the walls." Thus this magnificent mansion was reduced to a pile of ruins on which the ciipricious hand of time continues to impress a di- versity of forms, which are moulded by that of nature into the beautiful and picturesque. The west side of the building con- tains the most perfect vestiges of its architecture. The opposite extremity, with the galleries on either side, though more dila- pidated, retain many traces of their former splendor. Upon the walls of the dining-parlour remains of the pictures are still visi- ble ; and the windows of the hall and chapel are almost entire. Within the quadrangle lie the half consumed trunks of some of the wooden bucks above mentioned. The whole site, collec- tively viewed from the heights within the park, exhibits an im- pressive scene of ruined and deserted grandeur. By a singular coincidence, about the same time that this stately pile was laid in ruins, the noble owner was drowned, together with his fellow-traveller, Mr. Burdett, in rashly venturing to sail down the cataracts of the Rhine at Schafiliausen. Being the last male heir of his ancient family, his estates devolved to his only sister, married to William Stephen Poyntz, Esq. who has erected a new brick house, without any pretensions to elegance, in the park, about a mile from the old one, for his residence. In the parish of South Berstead, at the south-east corner of the rape of Chichester, is situated Bognor, a place which owes its existence to the prevailing rage for sea-bathing. So lately as 1784 it was known only as a resort for smugglers, and consisted merely of a few fishermen's huts. About that time the late Sir Richard Hothain SUSSEX. 63 Hotham began to make it his summer residence, and was so well pleased with the situation, that some time afterwards lie bought a piece of land, on which he erected Bognor Lodge. By subse- quent purchases he became the proprietor of the whole site of the present village, which, with the exception of a few houses, was built by him. It consists of several rows of elegant brick structures, but so detached that the place is at least a mile in length, erected with the professed design of making Bognor the resort of more select company than is to be found at otli^r bathing-places. The principal of these ranges of buildings are the Crescent, in the centre of which the Dome-house, as it is called, is particularly magnificent ; Spencer Terrace, Hothara- ton-Place, and East-Row. For the accommodation of visitors here is an hotel, a subscription room, a library, warm sea-bath, ten ar twelve bathing-machines, and a cliapel erected at the sole expense of Sir Richard Hotham. After his death the property was sold in lots to different purchasers ; but, though many years iiave since elapsed, the increase of Bognor, during that interval^ has been very trifling. This is the more surprising, as every season brings a gre^iter influx of fashionable company to this place.* At BosHAM, according to Bede, a place environed with woods and sea, Dicul, a Scottish monk, had a very small cell for five or six religious men. In a manuscript history of this place, drawn • Sir Rith.T-d Mothara^ the tbmider of Bognor, was, eailv in life, a hat- ter in the borough of Southwark, and greatly increased his trade by this de- vice ; instead of shop-bills, he had his name and business inscribed on pieces of copper about the size of a halfpenny, which he distributed all over the m. This durable docnmeut attracted notice, and its whimsical originality induced many persons to be- come his customers. Having amas!ied a tolerable fortmie, he relin- quished his business, and engaged in commerce, particularly in the shipping of the East-India Company, and in time acquired a very large property. He successfully opposed Mr. Thrale at the election for Southwark in 1780, and \ras knighted in consequence of presenting an address to his Majesty ou the birth of a prince. Sir Richard died in 1799, and his remains are interred in South Berstead Church. .SUSSEX. drawn up in the seventeenth century;^ by Mr. John Smyth, it is said that " the inhabitants of Bosham, deriving their know- ledge from their ancestors, shewed the writer in 1637 the ruins of an outworne foundation near to the ancient parish church, which they called St. Bede's Chapel, as small in circuit as Bede maketh the cell of Dicul there adjoining to be.''* A small por- tion of the vicarage-house, which is contiguous to the church- yard, seems to have formed part of the buildings belonging to this religious establishment. In the garden is a colossal head of marble dug out of the church-yard, and conjectured to have heen a Saxon idol. Mr. Hay says that it goes by the name of Beavois*s head, though never designed as such ; that its bar- barous sculptiire and want of proportion shew it to be of German manufacture, and that it appears to have been a Thor, the Jupiter of the Pagan Saxons. f The short hair round the head is still visible, though the figure has suffered considerably from the wea- ther. The cliurch is situated close to an arm of the sea : the Saxon tower at the west end has been converted into a belfry. On the right side of tlie south door, almost close to the entrance, is a descent to a room arched with stone, about twelve oi- fourteen feet square. The idea of the inhabitants is, that this was the prison of the religions house here ; but more probably it was the burial-place of the priors and other principal officers of that esta- blishment. At Bosham was born Heiibeiit de Bosham, who being a good scholar, was appointed private secretary to Thomas Becket, Arclibishop of Canterbniy. He was the author of several books, among others, a history of his master's untimely end, of which he was an eye-witness, but durst not make any resistance for fear of sharing the same fate. He afterwards went to Italy, where Pope Alexander III. raised him to the dignity of Bishop of Bene- vcnto; and in 1178 to that of cardinal. in the parish of Boxgrovl: lies Hahmker- House, which was the chief seat of the honour of Robert de Haye, to whom it was. giveu * Sir William Buirell's Collections in the Britisb Museum. i History of Chichester, p. 604. SUSSEX. 65 given by Henry T. and from whose descendants it was carried by marriage into the family of St. John. In the reign of Edward III. it was transferred in like manner to the family of Poynings ; and afterwards passed through the hands of the Bonvilles to the Lords de la Warr, by one of whom it was given, together with other possessions in this county, to Henry VIII. in exchange for the abbey of VVherwell in Hampshire. Halnaker remained in the Crown till the latter end of Elizabeth's reign, when it was granted to the Morleys, who came out of Suffolk, and attained considerable eminence here. The last male heir. Sir William Morley, who died in 1701, was succeeded in this estate by his daughter, Mary Countess of Derby ; and at her death, in 1752, it devolved to her cousin. Sir Thomas Ackland, Bart. By him it was sold for 50,0001. to the Duke of Richmond, and is now an appendage to liis neighbouring mansion of Goodwood, of which it was formerly the head. In this house, which has been suf- fered to go to decay, are to be seen two Curfews, as old as the reign of the Conqueror. At Boxgrove a priory was founded by Robert de Haye, on whom the honour of Halnaker was originally conferred. It was at first a cell to the convent of Essay in Normandy, and con- tained only three monks, on whom the founder bestowed all his lands in Boxgrove. William de St. John added ten monks to tlie establishment ; his brother Robert augmented their number with two more; and their possessions were increased by the benefac- tions of the same family. William, the first Earl Warren, is said to have been a benefactor ; and Gundred, his wife, is reported, but erroneously, by Dugdale,* to have been buried here. The whole seems to be a mistake, for William de Albini, Earl of Arundel, the husband of Queen Adeliza, widow of Henry I. makes a grant to this priory of exactly the same estate as Earl Warren is said to have given. Edward III. naturalized this foun- dation, discharging it from rents, and all other disadvantages to * Dugd. Bar. I. 74. Vol. XIV. 2 B which 56 SUSSEX. which as alien it was subject. At the Dissolution it was valued at 14-51. 10s. 2d. clear per annum. It has since that time had the same owners as Halnaker. Some parts of this priory are still standing-, and have been converted into dwelling-liouses : but several old buildings whicli belonged to it were pulled down in 1780 by the late Duke of Richmond, for the purpose of erecting a farm-house on their site. The priory church, which has become parochial, though at present spacious, consisting of transepts, nave, two aisles, and ihree cliancels, was formerly much larger, as is apparent from the riiins, which shew the nave to have extended nearly, if not quite, as far west of the cross, as it now does east of it. It con- tains several altar tombs, some under-pointed arches,[but without figures or inscriptions. Tradition relates that one of them covers the remains of Queen Adeliza, which is not improbable ; for two of her daughters, by the Earl of Arundel, Oliva and Agatha, were interred here. Others, undoubtedly, are for Thomas Lord Poynings, and his lady, Philippa : for by the will of that noble- man, bearing date at Halnaker 1428,-he bequeathed his body to be buried within the choir of the priory of Boxgrove, on the north part of the tomb of the Lady Philippa, sometime Countess of Arundel and Pembroke, his wife, daughter to Edmund Mortimer Earl of March. |n the chancel, on the right, is a rich canopied monument, ornamented with arms, which is conjectured to have been for Elizabeth Bonville, Lady de la Warr, the heiress af Halnaker. In the inside, in ancient gold letters, is this imper- fect inscription : <^f 20111: dmitit pn? for t^e lefoul^ of CI)omaii la Mtsxt dMi^M}) Mu - - - - And round one of the pendant stone ornaments is the following.: On SUSSEX. 67 On the south side of the chancel is a mural monument, in- closed with iron rails, with a long inscription to the memory of Sir William Morley, K. B. who married a daughter of Sir John Denham, the poet, and died in 1701. Opposite to this, on the north side of the chancel, is another elegant marble monument in commemoration of Sir William's daughter and heir, who married James Earl of Derby, whom she survived many years. This lady, who died in 1752, in her 85th year, was remarkable for her charity, and is pourtrayed on her monument sitting under an oak relieving poor travellers, and pointing to a building repre- eenting a hospital in this parish of her foundation. This hospital consists of a centre, in which is a good school- room, and on each side a wing containing twelve apartments. It was built and endowed in 1741, as the inscription upon it informs us : — " the alms-houses for the habitation and support of poor aged and infirm women— the school for the habitation and main- tenance of a school-master ; and for the education of poor boys and girls — the women and children to be chosen out of the pa*, rishes of Boxgrove, East Lavant, and Tangniere/' Easebourne, about a mile north of Midhurst, was formerly a market-town. Here was a small convent of Benedictine nuns, founded by John Bohun, of Midhurst, and valued, at the suppres- sion, at 471. 3s. per annum. In the chancel of the parish church which belonged to the nunnery is an ancient monument without inscription, on which is the figure of a man in armour, in a recumbent posture, with a collar of SS. Tradition relates that it was erected for Sir David Owen, a natural son of King Henry VIII. who married an heiress of the Bohun family, formerly lords of Midhurst. This monu- ment is on the north side close to the communion rails. The coat of mail is semS of lions rampant. It is certain that by the will of Sir David Owen, as proved in 1542, he bequeathed his body to be buried in the priory church of iliis place after the de- cree of a banneret. In the parish of HartiNg is Up Park, which, in the seveuf- 2 B 2 teenth m SUSSEX. teentl) century, was the residence of ForJ Grey, Esq. "who puIleJ down the old house, and erected the present magnificent seat. He was raised by King William III. to the dignity of Earl of Tankervillc, and left an only daughter. This lady, in 1695, was united to Charles Bennet, Lord Ossulston,* on whom the title of his father-in-law was afterwards conferred. By his suc- cessor this mansion and park, with the manors of South and East Harting, were sold, in 1746, to Sir Matthew Featherston for 1 9,0001. ; the wood in the park being computed worth the whole money. Sir Matthew was the son of Mr. Featherstonhaugh, a w ine merchant in London, and having had a large estate left to him by Sir Henry Featherston, to whom he was very distantly, if at all, related, he assumed his name, was, in 1747, created a baronet; and was succeeded in 1774 by his son. Sir Henry. Ladi/holt House and Park formerly belonged to the Carylls; but Lord Caryil by his adherence to James II. forfeited this estate, which was granted by William III. to liord Cutts; but at the porlicular request of the exiled monarcli it was restored to the Caryil family on the payment of 10,0001. to the new proprietor* The estate was in the sequel sold to the Duke of Richmond, who, before the purchase was completed, assigned over his right to Sir Matthew Featherston, Bart, and from iiim it descended, with Up Park, to son and successor. The house has been suffered to go to decay. Near East Lavaist is Goodwood, the magnificent seat of the Duke of Richmond, agreeably situated in a spacious park, and commanding an extensive and delightful prospect. This mansion and estate formerly belonged to the noble family of Percy; but being purchased by the grandfather of the present Duke * " At l)ie time of this marriage a guinea went/or 30s; and there being but four bells atHajting, he first gave the ringers four guineas, and then dipping his hand into his pocket, brought up thirty-six more, and gave to the rector, (Mr. Tench, ) who, as soon as tlie new-niarr-ied couple were gone, said, Pox ra^e his little hand ! if it was as big as seme folks' hands, it might have brought Up as many again." Sir WiUiam BamlVs M:i. Collections, SUSSEX. 69 Duke of Richmond, lie pulled down the old Gothic structure, and on its site erected a new buikiiui^ for a huntinjj-seat. To this edifice the late Diike made great additions, under the di- rection of Mr. James Wyalt, which are still in au unfiiushed state. The principal front and the west wing are new. The former, which faces the south, is only one story high, having at each end a circular tower of two stories, crowned with a low dome. The centre is adorned with a portico of six Ionic columns of Portland stone, which support another of the same number of Doric pillars, surmounted by a ballustrade. Each of the wings, "which form obtuse angles with the front, has also a circular tower at its extremity. On the ground-floor of the front, on the east side, is the drawing-room, about 58 feet by 36 ; and on the Avest the dining-room, about 40 feet in length. The lower part of the ■whole of the east wing will be occupied by the picture gallery. The old house, which now forms only the west wing, is a plain edifice of Portland stone, with a pediment in the centre. All the new part of this mansion is built of small flints collected from the South Downs, which have this superiority over Portland stone, that the longer they are exposed to the air the whiter they become. The stables and offices westward of the house, and perhaps rather too near to it, are a handsome quadrangular building, infe- rior to few, if any, in the kingdom. The kennel which the late Duke built for his hounds also exceeds in magnificence and con- veniences of every kind, even to luxury, any structure perhaps ever raised before for the reception of such tenants. The gardens, at some distance from the house, are extensive, and laid out with great judgment; and adjoining to them is a magnificent tennis-court. The park comprehends 2000 acres. At the upper end of it is a beautiful pleasure-house called Cairney seat, erected with materials formerly compc^sing the tower of Hoove church, an elegant structure of Caen stone, on the fall of which they were purchased and applied to this purpose by a former proprietor of Goodwood. Being built on a rising ground, 2 B 3 it 70 SDSSEXv it commands a magnificent view, embracing the -whole tract of plain beneath, the projections and recesses of the coast, from Brighton to the harbours of Portsmouth and Southampton, and a considerable extent of country northward of the Downs. On a hill adjoining to the park, the late Duke formed an excel- lent race-course. Tlje races are generally held late in April, or early in May; and last two or three days. Among the curiosities of Goodwood, the lion, carved in wood, which adorned the head of Commodore Anson's ship the Centu- rion, during his circumnavigation of the globe, must not be omit- ted. It is set up against the Duke of Richmond Inn, on a stone \ pedestal, with the following inscription: Stay traveller awhile and view, one who has travell'd more than you. Quite round the globe ; in each degree, Anson and I have plowed the sea j Torrid and f rigid zones have past, and safe ashore arriv'd at last. In ease and dignity appear ; He in the House of Lords — I here. In the parish of Lynchmere, about four miles north of Mid- hurst, was Shelbred Priory for Black Canons, the foundation of which is ascribed to Sir Ralph de Ardern, and which, at the Dissolution, was valued at 721. 15s. lOd. Of this priory consi- derable remains still exist ; for, having been converted, soon after the suppression, into a farm-house, it thus escaped the fate of many of our monastic establishments. The entrance is through a large door-way, which opens into a passage leading into the common-hall. On each side of the passage are several gloomy cells, the ceiling arched with intersecting angles of ancient work- manship. Hence a flight of massive stone steps, worn with age, leads through a dark vaulted passage to the rooms above ; one of which, tradition says, the prior's, claims some notice. The walls of this room were ornamented by some humourous monk with paintings in fresco, but executed in a homely style. They are now nearly defaced ; yet the remains exhibit figures in the dress of ancient times, country amusements, a view of the priory, and, upon a square tablet, the following ludicrous representation 9 of SUSSEX. 71 of the nativity of Our Saviour under this inscription : Ecce virgo concipiet et pariet fillumy et vocahiturnomen J esus. Uppermost stands the cock as in the act of crowing. From his beak there is a label, with these words ; Christus natus est. Next comes a duck, from whose bill issues another label, inscribed Qiiando /* quando P which is in like manner answered by a raven : In liac node. A cow bellows ; Ubi P ubi P And, lastly, a lamb seems to bleat out : In Bethlehem. In the same room, iu the centre of the wall, are the arms and motto of King James I, ; and near the door three women in the dress of Queen Elizabeth's time ; beyond which are two birds fighting with sword and buckler, over a kind of perspective view of some buildings supposed to represent the priory. About a mile from Shelbred Priory was till lately standing a ruined edifice, commonly called Fordley, but more properly Verdley Castle, respecting which Grose says, that after a most diligent search in every book, where an account of it might be expected, not even the slightest information could be obtained One tradition reported it to have been a castle demolished in an invasion of the Danes, while another made it a mad-house, at- tached to the nunnery of Easebourne : but the author just quoted has shewn the great improbability of both these stories. According to the most plausible conjecture, it must have been a grange be- longing to the monks of Shelbred. It was a quadrangular build- ing nearly twice as long as broad, measuring on the outside thirty-three feet by sixty-eight. The parts lately standing were the westernmost end with small returns on the north and south sides. Near the door were some slight traces of a narrow wind- ing stair-case ; and the walls were about five feet and a half thick. This ruin, situated in the manor of Verdley, the properly of the late Viscount Montague, devolved with the rest of his estates to W. S. Poyntz, Esq. whose steward about three years since to- tally demolished it with the intention of applying the stones to 2 B 4 the • Grose's Antiq. VIII. 135. 72 SUSSEX. the repair of the roads ; but no use whatever has yet been made of these materials. Near the village of Racton, on the borders of Hampshire, about eiglit miles north-west of Chichester is Stanstead House, the elegant seat formerly of the Earl of Scarborough, and af- terwards of the late Earl of Halifax. Some time after the decease of the latter it was in 1781 put up to sale in Chan- cery, together with tiie rest of his lordship^s Sussex estates, and sold for 102,5001. to the late Richard Barwell, Esq. who had accumulated a very large fortune in tlje service of the East India Company. Since his death it has become by purchase the pro- perty of Lewis Way, Esq. Stanstead enjoys one of the most delightful situations in the kingdom ; the windows of the mansion commanding a complete view of Portsmouth, the Isle of Wight, and the shipping at Spithead, together with an extensive prospect of the sea. The house is of brick. The principal front looks towards the west, and consists of a centre, a quadrangular building, connected with the two wings by a low open colonnade, of the Ionic order. In the middle of the centre building is a balcony, supported by two stages of Ionic columns; and on the top is a small observatory, crowned v/ith a cupola. The wings are handsome quadrangular edifices, adorned with a pediment in the middle of each side, and are also surmounted by light open cupolas. Stanstead had formerly two parks, one of which has been con- verted into farms. The present park comprehends 650 acres, ex- clusively of the forest, a tract of 960 acres, where the lord of the manor has a right of inclosing the land for twenty-one years, on clearing it of timber, and the tenants have at other times a right of common. Tliis tract is now a fine nursery of young timber, the greater part of it having been replanted with oak. It is a remarkable circumstance, that the spring after , the acorns were planted, it was discovered that the mice had eaten holes in the greatest part of the seed ; still the trees grew up, and few, if any, of them failed. Slindon SUSSEX. 73 Slindon was formerly distinguished as one of the residences of the archbishops of Canterbury, it having been an appendage to Pageham, granted to the sec by King Ceadwalla, in 680. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth the family of Kempe obtained a seat in this parish. The last of this family died in 1753, and his daughter and co-heir carried this estate by marriage to the Earl of Newburgh, whose son and successor is the present pro- prietor of Slindon, where he resides. This nobleman is a lineal descendant from the unfortunate Earl of Dervventwater, with whose history every reader is acquainted. This noble old man- sion is delightfully and boldly situated at the upper end of a well wooded park, on a fine eminence, which commands a magnificent view of the sea to the south, and of Chichester cathedral, and other interesting objects. The entrance opens into a handsome hall, with a gallery over one end. The decorations are principally modern; the walls stuccoed, and the ceiling richly wrought with flowers. Over the doors are the arms of Kempe and of the pre- sent family. The library is a plain square room, in which are a few portraits : of the second Lord Derwentwater, who was be- headed ; of his mother. Lady Mary Tudor, natural daughter of Charles IL; of some of the Kempes, by Sir Peter Lely ; of Lord Newburgh and his brother, and of Charles II. in his robes. The chapel up stairs is arched over, and has a rich altar, over which is a fine picture of Christ taken from the cross; and on each side paintings of St. Peter and St. Paul. Here also are all the decorations proper for mass. The style of building of the front of this house seems to be that of Elizabeth, or James I. to which Lord Newburgh has been attentive in his additions and altera- tions. The island, or more properly peninsula, of Selsea, is a consi- derable flat tract of land, about six miles south of Chichester, which runs far into the sea, so as to be surrounded at high water on all sides but the west, having a ferry a little below Sidlesham, and a good road at low water, with a small bridge across the nar- row stream. This SUSSEX. This place is remarkable, as having been originally an episco- pal see. After its removal to Chichester, the bishop continued to have a mansion and park here, no traces of which are now left; but at the beginning of Elizabeth's reign, by virtue of an act em- powering the queen to take into her hands certain of the temporal possessions of any see that should become vacant, making com- pensation for the same, with parsonages impropriate and tithes, Selsea, with seven other manors, was separated from the estates belonging to the bishops. The present lord of the manor is Lord Selsea. The church is situated at the north-east corner of the penin- sula, near two miles from the village. It is an ancient building, and appears to have once been larger than at present. At the west end are some ruins, which are said to have formed part of a tower begun some years ago ; but the design was relinquished. In the middle aisle are several ancient coffin-shaped stones, two of which have crosses, or pilgrims' staves, upon them. Near the church-yard are the marks of some place of defence thrown up in a semicircular form. Here also was tlie first monastery founded in this county, the charter of which was given by Adelwalch, King of Sussex, to Wilfrid, and included the whole peninsula, with part of the hun- dred of Manwode. This monastery, for canons regular, was dedi- cated to St. Peter, and was erected on the south-east side, and contiguous to the spot where the parish church now stands. The remains of this building, and of ^le adjoining city, says Camden, " are visible at low water, the sea having here encroached con- siderably upon the land.'' About a mile and half out at sea there are several places having either rocks, or the ruins of buildings, under water. The best anchoring off the island is ta this day called llic Park; and the rocks between the islands and the shoals farther out bear the name of The Streets, where a tomb-stone with an inscription is said to have been a few years since picked up by some fishermen ^. At • Ha^y's Hist, of Chichester. SUSSEX. 16 At Trotton, near Midhurst, Thomas Otway the poet was born in 1641. His father was rector of Woolbediug. He re- ceived his education at Wykeham School, near Winchester, and finished liis studies in Christ Church College, Oxford. On quit- ting the University, after the death of his father he repaired to London, and commenced actor, but was not successful in that profession. He was more valued for tlie sprightliness of his con- versation, and the acutenesS of his wit, which gained him the friendship of the Earl of Plymouth, who procured him a cornet's commission in the troops then serving in Flanders. Disliking the army, he soon returned to London, and had recourse to writ- ing for the stage, the only employment for which Nature seems to have fitted him. In tragedy in particular few of our English poets have equalled him, and his plays were received with the greatest applause. Want of economy, however, plunged him into inces- sant distress, and at last he died miserably in a public-house on Tower Hill, in f685. It has been said that downright hunger compelling him to fall too eagerly upon a piece of bread, of which he had been some time in want, the first mouthful choked him, and put a period to his life. In the parish of West Dean is Cannon Houses the new built, and yet unfiiiished, seat of Lord Selsea, who holds this estate by lease from the dean and chapter of Chichester, whence probably it derived its name. The house is situated on the east side of the church-yard, from which it is shut out by a skreen of ever- greens- and forest-trees. The grounds have been much improved ^}y judicious planting. About 200 yards in front of the mansion runs the little stream called the Lavant, which, though dignified with the name of a river, is frequently without water. THE RAPE OF ARUNDEL. ' The rape of Arundel, containing five hundreds and fifty-six parishes;^wenty-oDe of which are in the Upper, and thirty-five 76 SUSSEX* ill the Lower Division, extends, like all the other rapes, across the county from north to south, being bounded on the east by that of Bramber, on the west by Chichester, ou the north by Sur- rey, and on the soutli by the English Channel. Arundel, the principal town in this rape, to which it gives name, is plea- santly situated on the declivity of a commanding hill on the north' west bank of the A run. It consists of two principal streets, one of which runs north and south, and the other west- ward from their common centre ; and, according to the enumera- tion of 1801, then contained 334 houses, and 1855 inhabitants. Here are two weekly markets, on Wednesday and Saturday ; and annual fairs on May 14th, August 21st, and December 17th, chiefly for cattle. This town was incorporated by Queen Elizabeth, and is go- verned by a mayor, twelve burgesses, a sleward, and other officers. The mayor, chosen yearly at the court leet of the lord of the manor, is also a justice of the peace in the borough ; and no writ,, even from the coi rts of Westminster, can be executed within his jurisdiction, till it has been indorsed by him. Arundel is a borough by prescription, and ever since 30 Edward I. has sent two members to Parliament, chosen by the inhabitants paying scot and lot. On the north-east side of the town stands the celebrated Castle, which was a place of great fame and strength in the earliest periods of English history, though it is uncertain at what time^, or by whom, it was erected. The first mention made of Arun- del occurs in the will of King Alfred, by whom it was be- queathed, with the castle, to his nephew Adhelm, whence this edifice is supposed to have been built during the reign of that monarch, or not long before. That Bevis was the founder of this castle is a current opinion, handed dowiji by tradition ; and here is still a tower known by the name of Bevis Toiper, which f * is SUSSEX. 77 is reported to have been his apartment. " Bcvis/* says Gil- pin, " was a giant of ancient times, wliose prowess was equal to his size. He was able to wade the channel of the sea to the Isle of Wiglit, and fixqtiently did it for his amusement. Great, however, as Bevis was, he condescended to be warder at the gate of the Earls of Arundel, who built this tower for his reception, and supplied him with two hogsheads of beer every week, a whole ox, and a proportional quantity of bread and mustard. It is true, the dimensions of the tower are only proportioned to a man of moderate size; but such an inconsistence is nothing when opposed to the traditions of a country."* So much, however, is certain, that soon after the Norman Con- quest, this castle was given by William I. to his kinsman Roger de Montgomery, whom he at the same time created Earl of Arundel and Sllre^vsbury ; but he took his title from this place, where he resided, though he was under that title Earl of Sussex and Clai- chester. There were three Earls of Arundel of this family, Roger, Hugh, and his brother Robert de Bellesme who was de- prived of all his honours, and outlawed by Henry I. for taking- part with his elder brother Robert, who preferred a claim to the English throne ; on which the king settled the Castle of Arun- del on his second queen Adeliza, in part of her dower. After the king's death she married William de Albini, who is described as one of the most accomplished men of his age. It is related that, before his marriage, the queen of France, a woman of great beauty, being then a widow, caused a tournament to be pro- v;«laimed throughout her dominions. On this occasion Albini re- paired to Paris, and bore away the palm from all his competitois. The queen, struck with the proweSs and pei^son of the champion, invited him to an entertainment; and, having presented him with some jewels of great value, made him an offer of her hand. Having already engaged his word to Adeliza, he declined this splendid match, on which the queen, as we are told, to revenge the disappointment, ordered him to be shut up in a lion's den, where * Observations on ihc Coasts of Hampshire, Sussex, and Kent. p. 32, 78 SUSSEX. where the undaunted Albini, thrusting his hand into the mouth of the formidable brute, pulled up his tongue by the roots. From tbis action he is said to have acquired tbe appellation of William with the Strovg Hand. Arundel Castle was the first hospitable mansion which re- ceived the Empress Maud, when she landed in England to dis- pute her claims with Stephen. It was at that time the seat of the beautiful Adeliza, relict of Henry I. This lady hearing of Maudes landing at Portsmouth gave her a friendly invitation, which was accepted. The vigilant Stephen, soon apprised of her motions, appeared suddenly before the castle with a well-ap- pointed army. The dowager-queen sent him this spirited mes- sage : she had received the empress as her friend, not as his enemy ; she had no intention of interfering in the quarrels iii which that lady was engaged ; and therefore begged the king to allow her royal guest to quit Arundel, and try her fortune in some other part of England. But/^ added she, " if you are determined to besiege her here, I will endure the last extremity of war rather than give her up, or suiFer the laws of hospitality^ to be violated.*^ Stephen, who was as generous as he was brave, granted Adeliza's request, and the empress retired to Bristol. In the family of Albini this castle continued till the death of Hugh, the last male heir in 1243, when his estates were divided among his four sisters. By this partition the castle and manor of Arundel went to Isabel, wife of John Fitz-Alan, Lord of Clun, who made tliis place his residence, and assumed the title of Earl of Arundel. Edmund, the fourth in descent from him, having joined the barons who had taken up arms to oblige Edward II. to dismiss his favourites, the Despensers, was made prisoner at Hereford, and there beheaded. His honour and estates were thus forfeited to tiie Crown ; and the Castle of Arundel was granted to Edmund of Woodstock, uncle to the king : but about two years afterwards, the attainder being reversed by Edward 11 [. it was surrendered to Richard Fitz-Alan, son of the former possessor. It was Richard, the itext earl, who was accused of plotting at this SUSSEX. 79 tins place with his brother, the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Duke of Gloucester, tiie Earls of Derby and Warwick, the Earl Marshal, his son in-law, the Abbot of St. Alban's, and the prior of Westminster, to seize the person of King Richard II. and to put to death all the lords of his council. These intentions, either real or imputed, were discovered to the king: by the Earl Mar- shal. The Earl of Arundel was, in consequence, impeached of high treason, and the royal influence was exerted with such suc- cess over the judges, that he was found guilty and beheaded. Froissart says, that the king was present at the execution of this nobleman. Another historian adds, tliat the spectacle remained so deeply imprinted on his mind, that his sleep was interrupted by dreams representing to him the Earl covered with blood, and upbraiding him with his injustice. A rumour prevailed that se- veral miracles were wrought at his tomb, and that his head was miraculously rejoined to his body. To counteract this notion, the king ordered the corpse to be taken up and exposed for ten successive days to public view. Stiil it was not possible to cure the people of their prepossessions, and the Earl passed for a martyr. Nothing indeed could be more unpopular than the exe- cution of this nobleman, who possessed many valuable qualities, had served with great success against the enemy, and always as- serted the liberties of the people, by whom he was much be- loved. The estates of this unfortunate nobleman were confiscated, and given to the Earl Marshal, on whose testimony he had been con- victed. His son, Thomas Fitz-Alan, was tlius deprived of the paternal possessions and honours, in which, however, he was re- instated by Henry IV. who reversed his father's attainder. Oa the death of this nobleman without issue, in 1415, this castle de- volved to his cousin. Sir John Fitz-Alan, commonly called Sir John Arundel, who presented a petition to Parliament, requiring that he might be accepted there in his proper place, and in all public councils, as his ancestors. Earls of Arundel, had been. When this petition was read, John Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk also 60 SUSSEX. also laid claim to tlie castle and honour of Arundel; but judgment was given in favour of Fitz-AIan. Upon this decision an Act of Parliament was passed, 2 Henry VI. establishing this point, that the possession of this castle and honour conferred the dignity of Earl without creation, a privilege not enjoyed by any other place in the kingdom. The last male heir of the Fitz-Alans died 22 Elizabeth, leaving an only daughter, who, marrying Tho- mas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, carried the earldom and estate into that family, in which they are still vested. During the civil wars of the 17th century Arundel Castle did not answer the expectations that were formed of its strength and situation. It had been in the hands of the Parliament from the beginning of the war, and was esteemed one of their principal bulwarks in those parts. About the end of 1643, Lord llopton, with a view^ to compensate an unsuccessful summer, brought his forces suddenly before it, and reduced it on the first summons ; but in less than two months Sir William Waller retook it as suddenly. In neither siege its strength was tried ; tire garrison in each instance was intimidated. At the latter surrender Waller found in it the learned Chillingworth, who, being of the royal party, had taken refuge there. The fatigues he had under- gone, and the usage he met with from the conquering troops cost him his life. From this period Arundel Castle continued little better than a mass of ruins, till the present Duke of Norfolk undertook to restore it to its ancient magnificence. His grace demolished a considerabje portion of the old structure, in order to carry into efiect an elegant plan which he has adopted. From the part al- ready commenced, it appears to be his intention to form the edi- fice into a quadrangle, two sides of which are nearly completed. The order is Gothic, ornamented in the most delicate manner; the building of free-stone brought from the quarries, near Whitby in Yorkshire; and stones of a brown cast were carefully selected that they might assimilate in colour with the remains of the an- cient fabric. In the range already finished, containing th© prin- cipal SUSSEX. 81 «ipal entrance, the ground -floor is entirely dedicated to domestic and culinary apartments. Above is a small temporary library, the door, linings of the windows, and other architectural orna- ments of wliich are of the finest mahogany, beautifully carved, and iiighly polished. Adjoining to it is an anti-drawing-room, orna- mented with mahogany in the same style as the library, with which all the principal apartments correspond. In this room is a fine painting of the Nativity by Murillo, and a superb statuary marble chimney-piece, exquisitely carved. The principal drawing-room is intended to be liung with rich tapestry, or paper-hangings. On the walls are several curious ancient paintings of the Howard family ; and two by Hogarth, the one a scene in Covent Garden, the other a view of the old Castle, with portraits of the family. What was formerly the chapel has been converted into the dining-room : at one end is a large window of painted glass, executed by Egginton, repre- senting the present duke and duchess, in the characters of King- Solomon and the Queen of Sheba at a banquet. At the opposite end of the room is an orchestra ; and over tlie door is the subject of Adam and Eve in Paradise, attempted by Le Brun, in imitation of basso relievo; the execution is deemed excellent, but the situa- tion is injudiciously chosen. At the end of an extensive gallery, which divides these apart- ments from a range of bed-chambers, is anotlier stained window by tlie same artist. In the centre is a portrait of the late, John Charles Brooke, Esq. Somerset Herald and Secretary to the Duke, as Earl Marshal : below it are his arms, and above those of the Norfolk family This is the only part of the building sufficiently advanced to admit of any description, and indeed even this is in so unfinished a state as to afford a very faint idea of what is intended. A Vol. XIV. 2C second * Mr.. Brooke was one of the unfortunate persons who Just their lives b^' ihe pressure of the crowd at the Little Theatre in the Haymarket, on the Sd •»t February 17P4. susstx. second side of the quadrangle is to be occupied by the library, in which is to be placed Lawrence's famous painting- of Satan call- ing" his legions ; a third will be dedicated to the chapel ; and the fourth to various domestic offices. Those wlio have been in the habits of visiting the Royal Aca- demy, and who have noticed the numerous paintings and designs intended to promote the splendour of this mansion, may forifi some notion of the magnificence which Arundel Castle will one day boast. It is no trifling compliment to the noble owner to add, that the arrangements throughout have been formed entirely from his own ideas, and that he has been exclusively his own architect. Of the ancient ruins, the only parts remaining are some of the walls and the keep, the ascent to which is by a staircase nearly deffioiistied, and over a narrow pass commanding the entrance to the castle. The keep is a circular tower of massive stone ; this place, which was once the resort of warriors, is at present a cage for owls. In the centre of it is the entrance to a subterraneous passage now walled up ; it has once or twice been attempted to be e erected a handsome window at tlie east end, in which are in- serted the arms of the Dukes of Norfolk and Rutland, and those of Magdalen College, by Egginton. Horsham, situated on the river Adur, towards tlie northern extremity of this rape, is one of the largest towns in the county, compre- hending' within the limits of the parish 566 houses, and 3204 in- habitants, according to the returns of 1801. It is commonly supposed to derive its name from Horsa, the brother of Hengist, the Saxen ; but there seems to he uotliing more than the simi- larity of sound to support this conjecture. Its situation in that part of the county, which was formerly one continued forest, would authorize us to suppose, with at least equal plausibility, that the present appellation of this place is a corruption Mur^tham. Horshaui is a borough by prescription, and has returned tw« igtiembers to Parliament ever since the reign of Edward I. The Tight of election is in those persons who possess an estate hy inheritance or for life, in burgage houses or burgage lands lying within the borough. Their number is about twenty-five. The town is governed by a steward, two bailiffs, who are the re- turning officers at elections for representatives, and two conr ^tables; all of whom are annually chosen at the oourt-leet of the manor, which belongs to the Duke of Norfolk. The weekly niar- i.et on Saturday is abundantly supplied with corn and poultry j gnd on the last Tuesday in every month there is another forcattl^ Tlie fjiirs, chiefly for CAttle, and .sheep, are held ou the Monday heforr SUSSEX. before Whit- Sunday, on the 18th of July, and following Saturday^ Viud on the 16th and 27th of November. The Chnrch, a fine old structure, has a lofty spire of lead and slate, and a large pointed east window. In the chancel is an ancient altar-tomb, wrought round with compartments of plain shields ; and upon it is a finely proportioned recumbent figure of a man in armour, with conical head-piece ornamented, and lying upon his helmet, with his arms across his breast, a dagger at his. side, and his feet resting on a dog. Though there is neither in-, scription nor arms to indicate for whom this monument was erected, yet it is confidently asserted, that il covers the remains of William Lord Braose, maternal ancestor of the Dukes of Nor- folk. Here is also another large altar-tomb of Sussex marble, richly wrought with a canopy, but no figure, arms, or inscription. This, like the other, is said by some to be the tomb of a Lord Hoo, but is most probably for one of the family above mentioned. On the south side of the cliancel is a beautiful altar-monument of white marble, on which lies the figure of a female, in robes richly carved, her riglit hand resting on her breast, her left on a book. The inscription informs us that it was erected in memory of Elizabeth, wife of Thomas Delves, Esq. heir apparent of Sir Henry Delves, Bart, who died in 1654. Horsham has a good Market House and a Town Hall, in which the Summer Assizes are held alternately with Lewes. This edifice the Duke of Norfolk is now enlarging at his own expense, so as to render it more commodious for the judges and magistrates at the Assizes and quarter-sessions. Tiie County Gaol, a new and commodious structure, built partty with stone from the neighbourhood, stands in a situation judiciously chosen at the southern entrance of the town. A small garden extends along the front of tlie building, which has two spacious court-yards of about half an acre each, with gravel- walks surrounding a fine grass-plot. The wall which encircles them encloses the whole prison. It has two floors built over srcades; each debtor and felon has a separate j oom, all archert over SUSSEX. 91 over mill brick to prevent confusion and danger in case of fire. On each floor is also a day-room of suitable dimensions. Th^ chapel is in the keeper's house ; here prayers are read every day, and a weekly sermon is delivered by the chaplain, who re- ceives a salary of fifty pounds per annum. That of the gaoler ia 1201. and he has under him three turnkeys, who are paid by the county. Here are two Free- Schools and Meeting-houses for the Quakers, Methodists, Baptists, and Presbyterians : southward of the town are extensive Barracks, and a magazine in which are kept 30,000 stand of arms. In the same direction on the right of the road is an old seat called Hill Place, formerly the property of the late Viscoun- tess Irwin, but now belonging to the Duke of Norfolk. Denn Park, about a mile farther, on the left, is an old brick mansion, the residence of William Markwick, Esq. Springfield, the pro* perty of William Morris, Esq. and Horsham Park, the residence of Robert Hurst, Esq. adorn the norlhern entrance to the town ; about a mile east of which, in St. Leonard's Forest, is Cool Hurst, a seat of the Earl of Galloway. ShorehaM. There are two places of this name distinguished by the epithets of Old and New. Old Shoreham, formerly a town of some importance, situated near the mouth of the Adur, has dwin^ died into a village of about thirty houses, and 188 inhabitants. It is mentioned in our ancient histories as the spot where Ella, the first king of the South Saxons, made good his second landing, on his return from Germany with the reinforcements which en- abled him to accomplish the conquest of this province. The only relic of the ancient consequence of Old Shoreham is its church, great part of which lies in ruins. This fabric is evidently of very early date. The arches in the interior are larg^, in the Saxon style, and adorned with the zigzag ornament: several Vol. XIV. 2 D traces 9$ SUSSEX; traces of similar arclies appear on the exterior, especially in tfit ruinous north transept ; and in the upper part of the tower, which has circular windows above. On the south side is a remaFkable door-way.: columns, nearly buried in the gromitt with foliage to the capitals, support an arch having in the architrave three dis- tinct parts; the first contains a sort of triglyplis, the second diagonals, and the tliird paterae. At this place a handsome light wooden bridge crosses the Adur, which is here of considerable breadth : it was built by virtue of an Act of Parliament passed in 1781, authorising 50001. to be raised for the purpose in shares of 1001. each. New Shoreham, about half a mile southward of Old Shore- ham,, on the east side of the mouth of the Adur, has risen into consequence upon the ruins of the latter, probably on account dl its more convenient situation for trade. In 1801, it was found t» contain 148 houses, and 799 inhabitants. It has a weekly market ion Saturday, and a fair on the 2oth of July. The gt)vernment of the town is vested in two constables chosen annually at the co^rt;^. leet of the manor. . . New Shoreham is a borough by prescription, having sent mem- bers to Parliameivt ever since 26 Edw. I. 1298. The right of election was enjoyed by all the householders paying scot and lot, till 1771, when a scene of the most shameful corruption was dis- closed before a Connnitlee of the House of Commons. It appeared that a majority of the electors had formed themselves into a so- ciety, under the denomination of the Christian Club; the os- tensible object of which was the promotion of charity and bene-r volence, and the accomplishment of such other purposes as corres- ponded with the character which the members had assumed. Under this cloak they made a traffic of their oaths and consciences, set- ting their borough to the highest bidder, while the rest of the in- Jiabitants were deprived of, every legal benefit from Uieir votes. To prevent any similar combination Parliament, passed an act to disfranchise every; member of tlie Christian Society, and to. extend the votes for Shoreham to the whole rape of Bramber, so SUJ?SEX. thai the right of election is now imparted to about 1300 free- holders. The Church, forraerly collegiate, is large, and exhibits an interesting specimen of the union of the Saxon and the early pointed style, at a period when tliose two systems were main- taining that struggle by which one of them was to acquire the sole dominion in all public works. The plan of the church is a cross; the nave is destroyed, but confused masses of walls still remaining mark the boundary of the west front. The lofty square tower rising from the centre of the transepts consists of two stories, the first entirely Saxon, having two arched recesses with columns, and within each recess an arched window. At thei sides, and^ between each recess, are breaks, and columns at the angle of the tower. The second story also has two re- cesses with columns, having arches of the pointed form ; two windows again occur, but their archefs are circular, and their openings are divided into three small lights, by columns which support small circular arches. These lights and columns, as an antiquary has observed*, give the strongest warrant for sup- posing that they were some of the early hints towards forming the system of mullion-work, which constituted the invariable or- nament of windows in subsequent ages. Tlie east front is a beau- tiful elevation, and in good condition. It consists of three tiers : in the first are three circular-arched recesses with columns; and in the centre recess is a circular-headed window. On the right and left are the fronts of the side aisles with one circular recess, and a window of the same kind to each ; above these are other circular recesses and breaks at the angles. The second, or prin- cipal tier, wholly in the pointed style, presents three grand win- dows incorporated as it were into one, divided by clusters of columns with rich capitals, having pointed heads to the arches and architraves of many mouldings. The third tier has one large central circular window with several small recesses of various forms and dimensions on each side. The front finishes with a 2 D 2 pediRnent. • CeptUtnan'8 Mag. 1807. im SUSSEX. pediment. Tlie details of the interior are remarkable for their ele- gance, richness, and diversity ; so that this edifice altogether may be said to present an excellent school for the study of our ancient architecture. The only public edifice worthy of notice besides the church is the Market-House, situated in the middle of the town, and sup- ported by Doric pillars. Before the Reformation, New Shorehara had a priory of Car- melites, or White Friars, founded by Sir John Mowbray, and also a Hospital dedicated to St. James. Shoreham has a tide harbour, which is dangerous on account of the frequent shifting of the sands, and a long flat rock visible at low water. In spring -tides it has about eighteen feet water, about twelve in common, and not more than three feet at the ebb. It runs along by the town parallel with the sea, with which it communicates about half a mile eastward of the place. The principal business carried on at Shoreham is ship-building, with its dependent branches ; vessels of 700 tons have been launched there ; the harbour, notwithstanding its inconveniencies, being the best on this part of the coast, is frequented by ships of considerable burden, and has a custom-house, with a collector and inferior officers. Steyning derives its name from the Steyne Street, or ancient Roman roail from Arundel to Dorking, which passes through this place. In 1801 it contained 212 houses, and 1174 inhabitants. It has a weekly market on Wednesday, another on the second Wednesday in every month for cattle, and three fairs, June 9, September 19, and October 10. Steyning is a borough by prescription, and returns two repre- sentatives, who are elected by the householders and inhabitants within the borough, paying scot and lot, in number about 115. The municipal government is vested in a constable, who is the returniug -SUSSEX. iOl >i-43'iitvii'ing officer at elections, ancl is appointed at the court-lcet of the Duke of Norfolk, by whom the niauor was purchased of Sir John Uonywood. This town is situated at the foot of a lofty hill not far from the river Adur, and consists of four transverse streets, the principal of ■which run south-west and north-east. The houses upon the whole are rather mean. The Church, which stands in a picturesque situation on the €ast side of the town, is an edifice of high antiquity. The only jMirt now left is the nave ; the transepts and choir being com- pletely destroyed. The tower is low and heavy, built of flint and stone, with immense buttresses at each corner. The body of the church is formed of lofty stone walls with a heavy tiled r«of. The style is Saxon, and in the finest taste ; the work on the exterior may be called rich, but that in the interior highly magnificent. A professional writer has pronounced it to be one of those excellent Saxon remains, which, if not of tbe most ex- tensive dimensions, at least abounds in all that is beautiful in de- sign, and perfect in execution. Within, on each side of the nave, are four beautiful Saxon arches, so varied in their ornaments that no two are alike, and which were deemed sufficiently interesting to be copied by order of the Duke of Norfolk for the purpose of being introduced among the embellishments of Arundel Castle. A Free Grammar School was founded at Steyning about the middle of the sixteenth century, by a tradesman, of the name of Holland, who is buried in tlie church-yard. It was endowed with lands producing, in 1790, about forty pounds a year, for which the master was to aflford gratuitous instructions to all the boys of the town and parish. This charitable bequest is most grossly misapplied, if we may rely on the information communi- cated by a correspx)udent of a respectable periodical miscellany, who states that the house formerly used as the school was, in 1804, occupied by the Rev. Mr. Morgan, who enjoyed the stipend^ 3Jid other emoluments as master, but performed no duty.* 2D 3 Exten- * Genllenian's Magazine for 1804, p. 805- SUSSEX. Extensive barracks for infantry were a few ypars sinee erected at Steyning. In this town was in ancient times a priory of Benedictine monks subordinate to the abbey of the Holy Trinity atFescamp, in Nor- mandy, founded by King Edward the Confessor, and dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, which at the dissolution of the alien priories was given to Sion Abbey/ in Middlesex. In the church . belonging to this monastic establishment, which is conjectured to be the present parish church, were interred the remains of St» Cutliman, and of Ethelwulf, King of Wessex, father of Alfred thfi Great. Teruing, or Tarring, in the south-west corner of this rape, not far from Worthing, is a small market-town, that gives name to the huni- dred in which it is situated. In ISOl it contained 81 houses, and 487 inhabitants. The market for corn is every Saturday, but the market-house was pulled down fifty years ago. The church contains nothing worthy of notice except a strong box ia which the charter of the market is said to be deposited. This manor was given by King Athelstan to Christ Church, Canterbury, and afterwards held by the archbishops of that see. The old manorial house, in which, as tradition relates. Archbishop Becket often resided, was occupied as the rectory after the Re- formation, and as such belonged to the late Dr. Milles, Dean of Exeter, who repaired it, and threw the whole into one room for the purpose of a charity-school. In a house at Salvington, a hamlet in this parish, of which some remains are still left, was born in 1584 John Selden, who so highly distinguished himself as a scholar, a lawyer, an antiquary, and a patriot, that he was styled by Grotius the Glory of England. He was educated at the Free School of Chichester, and at Hart Hall, Cambridge, and afterwards devoted himself to the study of the law. Selden first obtained a seat in Parliament in 1623, and took an active part in the opposition to the SfVSSEX. 103 l"hc arbitrary proceedings which at length Lrought Charles T. to the block. He died In 1654, and was interred, according to his own request, in the Temple Church, London. His valuable col- lectioii oF books now forms part of the spkndid Bodleian Library at Oxford. The numerous productions of his pen were published together in 1726, in three Mio volumes. Worthing, not many years since an obscure village, consisting of a few miserable fisiiermeii's huts *, is now become a fashionable and much ftequented watering-place. For this preference it is cer- tainly mucli indebted to tlie advantages of its situation, which is peculiarly favourable to the invalid, as the range of the South Downs completely excludes the chilling north and east winds, and tlie sands, perfectly level to the distance of several miles along the coast, afford the greatest facility for bathing in the most tem- pestuous weather, and opportunities for healthful exercise either on horseback, or on foot. The modern buildings are situated near the beach, but the town extends northward in a straight line for about half a mile. Several of the new streets are composed of houses sufficiently extensive and elegant to accommodate the first families in the kingdom. Among these the Stcyne, a noble range, (but not com- pletely finished,) of very handsome houses, runs parallel with Warwick Buildings , another elegant row, which is the western- most boundary of Worthing, so as to form with it two sides of an extensive square, open to the sea, tind to the north. About a quarter of a mile from the beach is a neat new Chapel, erected by a subscription raised in shares of twenty-five pounds 2 D 4 each. • The author of the Picture of Worthing" -aas assured by an old in- iiabitant, that before it became a bathing-place the annual rent of none of these houses exceeded forty shillings, and that an adjoining piece of ground, to the extent of an acre, might be bought for half an anchor, or fivegalloos of ,brandy. V •■ ■ , > ' 104 SUSSEX. each, and consecrated in 181*2. The Theatre, a tolerably spa- cious edifice^ is situated in Ann Street, and contig«ou& to it is a convenient Market, where the stalls, supported by columns, sur- round a quadrangular area. This market is supplied daily by the dealers of Worthing, and is attended regularly thrice a week by the inhabitants of the adjacent country. Among the public esta- blishments may also be reckoned two respectable libraries and commodious warm baths. The present number of bathing-machines is about sixty. Among the private buildings at Worthing, Warwick House stands pre-eminent; from its extent, appearance, and situation, it may indeed be ranked among the first habitations in the kingdom. It was built by the Earl of Warwick while proprietor of the manor of Broadwater, which comprehends Worthing, but which has passed into other hands; and it is generally occupied in the bathing sea- son by some family of distinction. Worthing House, a neat plea- sant mansion, at the entrance of the village, is lett in like man- ner as a lodging-house. The ocean must have encroached considerably on this coast, if, As we are assured, an extensive common once lay between Worthing and the sea. Upon the site of this common, now covered with sand, and within high water mark, is dug a fine blue clay that pro- duces an uncommonly beautiful cream-coloured brick, with which the houses of this place are fronted. Worthing has suffered much from the too great eagerness of speculators to profit by the fashionable propensity to frequent watering-places; and though the number of its houses may have greatly increased of late years, yet it is not too much to assert that its prosperity has diminished in a like ratio, as there are now many more than can find occupants. Should the people of Worthing have the good sense to abstain from any new enterprizes for a few years, it cannot be doubted that the additional influx of company attracted by the recent improvements will enable thera to repair th^ losses occasioned by the error into which they have fallen. Jlbourn.^ SUSSEX. 105 Alhourne Place, in the parish of Albourne, was formerly tha residence of the Juxon family, one of whom, durins^ the civil war in the seventeenth century was obliged to disgrace himself as a mason's labourer, and was acting in that capacity during some re- pairs which were going forward at the church when a party of Cromwell's soldiers passed by in quest of him. This mansion afterwards descended to the Fagges; and, in tiie early part of the last century, was the residence of Sir Robert Fagge, whose eccentricities are yet remembered in the neighbourhood.* On his death the estate was carried into the Goring family by his sister, the wife of Sir Charles Goring, Bart. Broadwater, of which parish Worthing is a member, was formerly famous for being the head of the barony of the Lords Camois, and comprehending Offinglon, the ancient seat of the Lords de la Warr. The family of the Camois flourished here for several centuries. In 26 Henry IIL Ralph de Camois executed the office of sheriff for Surrey and Sussex. A singular circumstance is recorded of his grandson, John, who had married Margaret, daugliter and heir of Sir John Gatesden. This lady, conceiving an affection for Sir William Paynell, eloped from her husband, and lived in adul- tery with her paramour; on which Camois, by a formal deed voluntarily executed before several witnesses, made over to Pay- nell all his right and title to his wife, together with all the goods, chattels, and appurtenances then belonging to her, or to which she might at any future period be entitled. f Camois lived some years after this compact, but died before his wife, who then married Sir William Paynell, 28 Edward L ; and, in a petition to Parliament, claimed a third part of the estate of which her former husband was possessed at his death. The decision of tfiia case being referred to Parliament, and the counsel in behalf of the * There h a good portrait of this gentleman in the mansion of James Wood, Esq. of Hictsted, in the parish of 'J'wineham, and raf^e of Lewes. t This deed, which was drawn up in Latin, is given at length in the first volume of Dugdale's Boronage. 196 SUSSEX. . rightful heir, alledging the statute by whicli it was enacted, that if a wife, of her own accord, forsake her husband, and livt adulterously with another man, she shall be debarred of her dowry, unless her husband, without ecclesiastical coercion, be reconciled to, and cohabit with her ; judgmetit was given against the lady. This suit attracted great attention at the time, and probably occasioned the letter sent by Pope Gregory to Archbi- shop Lanfranc, severely censuring his connivance at a practice, by which men not only' forsook their wives, but even gave and granted them away. Ralph de Camois left a son and heir of his own name, who, 6 Edward II. obtained a charter for a market; and one of his fiuccessoi'S procured another for a fair at Broadwater. On the death of Hugh de Camois, without issue, 6 Henry VI. his two sisters becasne his coheirs, and Broadwater fell to the portion of Eleanor, wife of Roger Lcwknor. In the reign of Henry VIII. this estate was carried by marriage into the family of Mill, of which John Mill, Esq. was, 1619, created a baronet. The Church, which is built in the cathedral form, exhi- bits a mixture of the Saxon and early pointed style. Against the north wall of the chancel is the tomb of Thomas Lord de la Warr, a Knight of tiie Garter, who held various offices under Henry VII. and VIII. It is of free-stone, canopied and richly carved, but without figure or inscription, except the motto upon the garter, which surrounds his arms, cut in stone, and. fixed against the wall. Among other bequests specified in bis will, dated 1524, he left to this church his mantle of blue velvet of the garter, and his gown of crimson velvet belonging to it, to make two altar-cloths ; and appointed ten marks to be paid annaally for thirty years, to a priest to say mass daily in the church of Broadwater, and to pray for his soul, the souls of his wives, his parents, and all Christian soiils.* His son, who was also a knight of the garter, and died at Offiugton in 1554, was buried near his father, with standards, banners of arms, &c. and many mourners, • CoUins' Peer. V. 385— «. SUSSEX. 107 IhDurners^ as recited iti the account of his funeral, which adds, that he was the best housekeeper iu Sussex.* Offington, anciently the mansion of this distinguished family, has undergone much alteration. It is a low heavy building, of t>tonc, and quite plain in front, with two small projecting wings. Tlie ground which surrounds it is inclosed with a rough wall, and has the appearance of a small park, with good groups of timber, but no deer. The present possessor is AVilliam Mar« gesson, Esq. It might, at a small e?ipeiise, be rendered a charm- ing residence, as it possesses, what Browne used to denominate, great capabilities. In the parish of Clapham is MicheJgrove, which has been th« residence of the family of Shelly ever since the time of Henry VL when John Shelly married Elizabeth, daughter and heir of John Michelgrove, of this place. William, the eldest son of this match, was one of the judges of the Common Pleas under Henry VIII. and considerably increased his estate by his union with a eoheir of the Belknaps, of Warwickshire. John Shelly, Esq. of Michelgrove, was one of the first baronets created by James I. i»1611. The old mansion, which was situated in a deep valley, bean- tifully diversified, and well covered with wood, is described as having been a large quadrangular brick edifice, with an hexa- gonal turret at each corner, built about the middle of the sixteenth centurji. It was pulled down about twenty years ago by Sir John Shelly, who has erected in its stead a spacious and elegant mansion in the Gothic style, embellished in tiie most florid taste of that species of architecture. The arrangements, both internal and external, exhibit a beautiful specimen of scientific harmony and ability. This magnificent structure, built of cream-coloured brick, stands on the brow of a gentle declivity facing the sea, over which it has a fine prospect, and is said to have cost its spirited proprietor a &ura little short of 150,0001. At GowFOLD, on a grave-stone in the nave of the church, a rich ♦ Slrype's Memor. III. 201. lOS STTSSEX. a rich brass engraving, representing the portrait of a priest, witfi his hands clasped together in the attitude of prayer, six feet long, under a Gothic arch, having three labels issuing from his ■right and left shoulder, and the following monkish verses in- scribed on them : 1st. on the right hand — Mater sancta Jim me serves mortis ah Esu. — 2d. Mater sancta Dei due ad loca me requiei. — 3rd, on the left side : Sit Sancti Thome suscepta pre- catio pro me. In the centre of a small arch, over the priest's head^ is represented the Virgin sitting, with a sort of coronet on her head, holding Our Saviour in her lap. From the coronet. Sir William Burrell was induced to think that the engraver intended to represent Gundreda, wife of the founder of Lewes priory, as, from the portrait on her right, he concluded that William, Earl Warren, was denoted by the figure of St. Pancras, to whom Lewes priory was dedicated. Tile figure of St. Paacras stands on a pinnacle, treading on a warrior with a drawn sword; he holds in his right a palm branch and a book in his left, to signify his love of religion and his abilities in war. On the left is a bishop, in his mitre and pontifical habit : his right hand is raised, in the attitude of preaching; in his left he holdii a crosier; and, over his head, is a label, with the words : S^- Thos. Cant, meaning Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury. This figure «tands also on a pinnacle. On the dexter side, over St. Pancras, is an escocheon in the shape of a cross, with an inscription to denote the Trinity. On the sinister wais also an escocheoq, which is now lost. A ribband on the external rim bears this inscription in Gothic; capitals : Hie Terre Cumulus Thomas Nelond tegit ossa. Est et ei Tumulus praesens sub marmore fossa. Virtutum donis hie clarvit et rationis exemplis qve bonis decus avxit religionis. Mundo Martha fvit sed Christo mente Maria. In Mundo vigvit sed erat sibi cella Sophia. In Maii Mensis qvarto decimoque Kaleiidis ad eeli Sedes migravit habendas .... The remainder^ which was on the right side, is torn off and lost. Near SUSSEX. Near the village cliuicU of Fin don, is Findon Place, the seat of Mrs. Richaidsou ; and, in the same parisli, stands Highden, the mansion of Sir Harry Goring, surrounded with heuutiful plan- tations. At Lancing, which lies ahout half-way between Shoreham and Worthing;, two bathing machines are kept; and some good houses have lately been erected for the accommodation of persons ■who prefer privacy to the bustle of a fashionable watering-place. At Upper Lancing is the handsome residence of James Martin Lloyd, Esq. lieutenant-colonel of the Sussex militia, and one of the representatives of the borough of Steyning. At MuNTHAM, a capacious mansion, surrounded by a pleasant park, resided the late William Frankland, Esq. well known for his devotion to mechanics and natural philosophy, and who, in the course of a long life, expended a large sura in the prosecu- tion of his researches. The ingenuity of the machines contrived by him never failed to excite the astonishment of the spectator. One room was full of lathes, wrought by means of a large jack, from which the graver or chissel also received its direction; so that no assistance was required from the hand during the opera- tion, w hich proceeded steadily and successfully till the accomplish- ment of the assigned task. Medals of hard wood, with heads and figures, even complicated in their nature, were thus produced. A second room was furnished with machines for spinning, wind- ing, and other operations carried on in our manufactories. Here were also printing-presses of various constructions. Another apartment was crowded with time-pieces of every form and dimen- sion ; together with electrifying machines and optical apparatus, in almost endless variety. Musical instruments of every kind were to be found, most of them played by means of machinery ; and a place was allotted to implements of agriculture. What rendered the examination of these objects particularly interesting was, that they were all constructed from the plans of the vene- rable proprietor, who at one time kept many workmen^ and even soirie 110 SIJSSEX. some from foreign countries, in constant employ.* Soon after Mr. Frankland's death in December lb05, tliis extraordinary collection -was disposed of by public sale. Many of the articles fetched very high prices, one turning-lathe alone being sold for three thousand guineas. At Seal, near Steyning, William de Braose, in 1075, founded a Benedictine priory, subordinate to the abbey of St. Florence, at Saumur, in France. From this dependence it was released by Richard II. who, in his nineteenth year, made it indigena, of denizen. It was afterwards annexed to the College of St. Mary Magdalen at Oxford. Some small remains of the conventual buildings still subsist. In the parish of Shermanbury is a house calkd Ewkurstr surrounded with a moat, which seems to have once been the resi- dence of a family of distinction. A gate-way, bearing evident marks of great antiquity, is yet standing in good preservation ; it is built principally with Caen stone, and the groove for th^ portcullis is still visible. The house, now inhabited by a farmer, is of far more modern erection than this gate-way, which is kept in excellent repair by the owner, tlie Rev. John Gratwick Challen, patron and rector of the parish, and lord of the manor.f Shcrmanhurif was the native place of Dr. Thomas Comber, an eminent scholar a-nd divine of the seventeenth centurj'. He was the twelfth child of Richard Comber, Clarencieux King at Arras, and was educated at Horsliani and at Trinity College, Cambridge, of which he was elected master. About 1623 he wan appointed chaplain to the king, soon afterwards promoted to the deanery of Carlisle, and, in 1631, chosen vice-chancellor of Cambridge. For his attachment to the royal cause he was not only stripped of all his preferments, but likewise imprisoned in 1642. This hard reverse of fortune, together with all the indig- nities heaped upon him by the Puritans and Independents, he bore with exemplary fortitude till his death in 1653. Near • Evans's " Picture of Wortiiing," p. 72. f From the information of Mr. Jolm Ellis, of Hurst-per-point» 9 StS3EX. Near West Guixstf.d is West Qrinsted Park, which, with the lordship, was, in 1744, purchased for 10,7t01. hy Sir Mer- rick Burrell, of John CaryH, Esq. who retired into France to \\m Pretender, and assumed the title of Lord Caryll. Sir Merrick thoroughly repaired the house, wljjch is a hand.some slone man- sion ; and, at his deatii, in 1787, devised this, with his other estates in Sussex, lo his niece, Mrs. Elizabeth Wyjitt, a maiden lady, for her life, with remainder to Walter, second son of hi» nephew, William Burrell, Esq. who is the present proprietor, and one of the knights of the shire for this county. In the neighbourhood of .the same place, but in the parish o^ Shipley, is also the mansion of Sir Charles Merrick Burrell, Bart. It takes its name from Knap, or Knep, Castle, some small remains of which edifice are still to be seen close to the> high road leading to Horsham. The estate, comprehending about 1000 acres, formed part of the large possessions of the Gary Us. in this county. In 1788 it was sold for 18,9001. by the trustees of Jacob Rider, Esq. to Sir Charles Raymond, Bart, who, dying the same year, left it between his two daughters, Sophia, wife of Sir William Burrell, and Juliana, wife of Henry Boulton, Esq. The latter sold her moiety to Sir William, from whom it de- scended to the present possessor. History has not recorded at what time, or by whom. Knap Castle was built. There is every reason to presume that, like most of our ancient castles, it was erected soon after the division of lands made by the Conqueror among his Norman followers; and Hiat its founder was of the family of Braose, to which all the ad- jacent tract belonged. Mr. Grose, whose view of this ruin was taken in 1 770, observes, that even then not a reasouable con- jecture respecting its form and extent could be hazarded from its remaiiis ; *' indeed," he adds, " they only serve to prove, what scarcely occurs elsewhere, that here was once a castle.*'* The manor of Knap was originally a member of the barony of Bram- W, to which it long continued attached. Near ♦ Aiiiiq. Vol. V. p. 164. 112 SUSSEX* Near this casile, an inhabitant of West Grinsted found, softig years before Grose's account was published, an ancient gold thumb-ring, weighing upwards of six dwts, on which is rudely engraved a doe lying under a tree; and on the inside, in Saxon characters, Joye sans Fin. WiSTON, near Steyning, seems to have been early possessed by a family who derived their name from that place, and in whose descendants by the female line the estate continued unin- terruptedly till the middle of the seventeenth century, when it had passed through the families of Braose, Bavent, and Shirley* The last Sir Thomas Shirley was a great sufferer in the cause of Charles I. ; and his son was a celebrated physician. In his time Wiston,with the estate belonging to it, passed to Sir John Fagge^ created a baronet by Cliarles II. in 1660. His great grandsonj, Sir Robert, who died in 1740, left Wiston, and the principal part of his possessions, to his sister, the wife of Sir Charles Goring, Bait, and her eldest son, Charles, brother of Sir Henry Goring, Bart, now possesses this ancient and respectable seat and park, with the appendant estates. This place gave birth to three brothers, who attained to con- siderable eminence. They were tiie sons of Sir Thomas Shirley, who died in 1612. Sir Anthony Shirley, the second son^ was educated at Oxford and the Inns of Court; and, becoming known to Robert, Earl of Essex, under his auspices embarked, in 1596, on a voyage of adventure to Africa and the West-Indies. He took the island of Jamaica, and several towns ; but, not meeting with the wealth that was expected, he was deserted by the ships which had accompanied him, and obliged to return to England in the following year. He afterwards entered into the service of the King of Spain ; and, though commanded by James I. to return to England, he refused to obey, and continued to reside abroad till his death, which happened after the year 1630. He published several narratives of his voyages and travels. Sir Robert Shirley, the third son, was introduced by hi» brother Anthony to the Persian court. Here he performed such essentia^ SUSSEX. 113 Essential services against the Turks, that the Sophi gave him a telaliou of his own in marriage. With this lady he returned to England, where he lived many years, much affecting the eastern habit and manners. At length a dispute having taken place between him and the Persian ambassador, to whom Sir Robert is said to have given a box on the ear, Charles I. sent them both to Persia to decide their difference; but Sir Robert died during the voyage. Sir Thomas Shirley, the eldest son, was roused to emula* tion by the success of his brothers. He was ashamed/' says Fuller, in his quaint language, " to see them worn like flowers in the breasts and bosoms of princes, whilst he himself withered on the stalk he grew on. This made him leave his aged father and fair inheritance in this county, and undertake sea voyages into foreign parts, to the great honor of his nation, but small enriching of himself." TflE Rape of Lewes, adjoining on the west to that of Braraber, on the east to the rape of Pevensey, is bounded on the south by the English Channel, and on the north by the county of Surrey. It comprehends twelve hundreds and forty-seven parishes, thirty-eight of which are in the Upper, and nine in the Lower^ division. Bright HELM STONE, more commonly called Brighton, now the largest and most popu-^ lous town in the whole county, was little more than half a centuiy ago only a small insignificant place, situated on a part of the coast, but little frequented. In 1801 it contained 1282 houses, and 7399 inhabitants: but since that period its increase must have been astonishingly rapid, as we are assured that in 1809 there were upwards of 2000 houses, and 12,000 settled inbabit- VOL. XIV. 2E antsi 114 StJSSEX. ants ; and that the annual visitors, for the purposes of Health or pleasure, amounted to an equal number.''^ Whether, as some have surmised, tiiis place was frequented by the Romans while they remained masters of Britain ; or whether it derived its name from Brightltehn, a Saxon bishop, who made it his residence, it would now be equally vain and frivolous to enquire. JSo much, however, is certain, that the former conjec- ture is strengthened by the discovery of bones and coins of the emperors, which have been dug up near the town in urns of Roman manufacture. After the Norman Conquest, it was given, with the lordship of Lewes, to William de Warren. During the numerous wars in which this country has been engaged with France the trade and fisheries of Brighthelmstone, in common with the neighbouring towns, frequently suffered great injury from de- scents made by the enemy on tliese southern coa^s. To protect the place from such attacks, Henry VIII. in 1539, built a block- house here, and Elizabeth added walls of considerable length, together with four gates; but all these fortifications were gradu- ally undermined, and at last completely destroyed, by the sea. In the early part of the seventeenth century Brighthelmstone was one of the most flourishing towns in the whole county, contain- ing no fewer than 600 families, who were chiefly employed in the fisheries ; but owing to the restrictions laid upon the latter, and to heavy losses at sea by the capture of its shipping, the place fell to decay ; and, to add to its misfortunes, 130 houses were swept away by an inundation of the sea in 1699. The damage occa- sioned by this calamity was computed at 40,0001. To prevent the recurrence of such devastation, a fund has been established by act of Parliament for constructing and keeping in repair groynes, or jetties, which serve to bound the destructive element, and to collect and to retain the gravel, which the waves bring hither in immense quantities from the westward, as an additional barrier. It was not till towards the middle of the last century that Bright- • Aitret's Topo{|. of Brighton, p. 4. SUSSEX. 115 iBilglitlielmstone began to attract notice as a place of summer resort; and the professional skill of Dr. Patrick Russell, who revived the medical use of sea-water, recommended it to visitors of distinction. From tiiat period it has been gradually advancing to its present state of improvement and prosperity ; and, having been chosen as tlie summer residence of the heir apparent to the throne, it has risen to the rank 6f the most important watering- place in the kingdom. Fashion has abbreviated its ancient name to Brighton, by which appellation it is now universally known. - Thet(iwn is governed by a cioiifetable arid eight iFcad-boroughs, ■who are aTinually chosen at the court'ltet of the lord of the manor, the Earl of Abergavenny. It is not incorporated; but power is Tested by act of ParJiamenl in sisiy-four of the inhabitants, who are denominated commissioners, tb cleanse, light, and repair the streets, to remove nuisances, and ' to enforce otiier regulations conducive to the benefit and improvement of the place. Brighton stands on a declivity, which gradually slopes towards the south-east to tiie Steyne ; but the ground again rises with a moderate ascent in tlie eastern part of the to-wn. It is protected from tlie north and nortb-east -winds by a range of hills, which com- mand a view extending to the Isle of Wight, and over the Weald of Sussex. The soil is naturally dry ; and scarcely any spot in the kingdom enjoys a more salubrious air. The common mate- rials employed here for building are flint-stones, cemented w^ith mortar ; and brick-work round the doors and windows. Brighton, including the various modern additions, is of a qua- drangular form, divided from north to south by the Steyne, and its continuations, termed the Parade and the New Steyne. The- greater part of the old buildings are comprised in that portion of tbe town which lies to the west of this line. The pj-incipal street* here are North, East, Ship, and West Streets. East Cliff] Middle Cliff, West Cliff, Artillery Place, and Bellevue, face the sea. To the west of these last is forming a new square, to be called Bedford Square. On tlie Steyne are the North a^d South Parade J Blue ami Buff Buildings, Steyne Pla<;e, 2 E 2 South 116 SBSSEX. South Row, and Steyne Row. The streets and buildings eastward of tlie Steyiie are all of modern erection. The princi- pal of these are, the Marine Parade, St. James's Street, High Street, Edward Street, the New Steyne, the Royal Crescent, &c. The last-mentioned range, composed of lodging-houses, is one of the greatest ornaments of Brighton.^ In the middle of the enclosed area, in front of the Crescent, is a statue of the Prince of Wales, on a plain pedestal, erected at an expense of upwards of 3001. His Royal Highness is represented in the uniform of his regiment , the attitude is animated, and the like- ness strong ; but the sculptor has violated all the rules of his art, and more particularly the common custom in regard to grace, by hiding the right arm among folds of drapery, and giving to the left all the energy necessary to express scorn and defiance as hurled across tlie deep to that quarter whence impotent threats alone iiavc assailed our laughing strands. The Steyne, an agreeable lawn, dividing the old from the modern town, is a favorite promenade for the fashionable visitors of Brighton every evening during the season, when a small, but select band, performs for their amusement in a neat orchestra. It is bounded on the south by the ocean, and surrounded on the other three sides by handsome edifices or ranges of buildings. The most conspicuous of these is The Marine Pavilion, the summer residence of his Royal Highness the Prince Regent, situated at the north-west corner of the Steyne, nearly in the middle of the town. It was begun in 1784.. The sea-front, extending about 200 feet, consisted at first of a circuhir building, vyitli a lofty dome raised on pillars, and a range of apartments on each side. Two wings added in 1802, complete the proportions of the fabric* At the same time the • It must certainly have been with a view to encourage the gratification of a little harmless curiosity that the builder furnished all these houses with bow-windows ; though, from their sitntition with respect to each other, many persons would be disposed to consider this peculiarity as no recoramcnda- SUSSEX. U7 the ground towards tlie Steyne was laid out as a plantation, which gives a more finislied appearance to the whole. lu the west front, wliich forms a sqnare with a colonnade in the centre, is the grand entiaiice to this marine palace. It opens into plea- sure-grounds, contrived by taking in the road which formerly led into tire town from the north, and the gardens cabled the Pro- menade Grove, whi^h were for many years used for public amuse- ments. The interior arrangements are in a style of magnificence cor- responding with the high rank of the owner. The furniliire and decorations throughout are in tiie Chinese taste, and perhaps sur- pass the splendor of every thing of tli-e kind in Europe. The entrance-hall is thirty-five feet square, and twenty high. It is crossed by a light gallery with an awning, beneath which are mandarine figures as large as life, each holding a lantlwni. The anti-room is decorated with nine very fine paintings executed in China, illustrative of the manners of the people of that country. The ilrawing-room contains six pictures of the same kind, and communicates with a small apartment, twelve feet long and eight -wide, called tke Chinese Lanthorn, the sides being entiiely com- posed of glass, stained with representations of the insects, fruit, flowers, and other objects peculiar to ("hina. On particular occa- sions it is brilliantly illuminated on the exterior, and produces an effect which it is impossible to describe. The Conservatory, or Music-room, is fifty-feet long, thirty wide, and twent* high. The roof, painted in imitation of the tea and rose-wood, is sup- ported by twenty columns, and the side* are covered with a superb Chinese historical paper. These apartments occupy that portion of the building to the south of the entrance- hail. At the north end is the Rotunda, or Saloon, an obloag of fifty-five feet. The ceiling is admirably executed, and represents a clouded sky, from which are suspended, by flying dragons, three prodigious lanthorns, embellished with paintings. The cornice is supported by columns and pilasters ; and round the dome passes a light corridor, through the open work of which eight dragons appear in 2 E 3 the 118 SUSSEX. the act of flying, and eacli suspends a painted laiitliorn of smaller size than those just mentioned. The Egyptian Gallery is fifty- six feet in length, and twenty wide ; and adjoining to it, at the northern extremity of the building, is the Banqueting Room, of the same dimensions as the Conservatory. The stables belonging to this princely residence are situated on the north side of the pleasure-grounds, and are, beyond com- parison, the most magnificent edifice for sucli a purpose in Eng- land. They were built under the direction of Mr. Porden, in the Moorish style of architecture. The structure consists of a riding- house, 200 feet long, and 60 broad, on one side, and a spa- cious tennis-court on the other; in the centre, a building, octa- gonal without, circular within, and crowned with a spacious dome, contains stabling for upwards of seventy horses. The entrance is from Church-street, through a Avide lofty arch, into a large square court, containing the coach-houses, coach-horse ^t^bles, servants' rooms, and offices. Opposite to the entrance another arched gate-way conducts to a circular area, eighty feet in diameter, round which are the stables for saddle-horses, open- ing into it, and receiving light from the dome with which it is covered. This area is sunounded by an open gallery, which commands an advantageous view of the whole building. The dome, crowned with a cupola, attracts general admiration for its uncommon lightness. Arched gateways on the east and west sides communicate with the riding-house and tennis-court; and another opposite to the entrance with the pleasure-grounds, where a green-house, flower-gardens, and otlier embeili^shments, arc yet wanting to complete the design of the illustrious proprietor. The other private mansions in JBrighton, which have a claim to particular notice, are Grove-House, the property of tlie Duke of Marlborough, adjoining to the Pavilion ; Mrs. Fitzherberf s, an elegant modern structure, built after a plan of Mr. Porden ; and Ladif Anne Murray^s, which once belonged to the late Right Hon. AVilliam Gciard Hamilton, to whose judicious im- provements ii owes the beauty of its. px^sent ^xtiirukl apptear- ance. All these face the Steynei The SI/SSEX. 119, The Church dedicated to St. Nicholas stands at a small dis- Utnce to the north-west of the town, on a rising ground, about 150 feet above the level of the sea at low water. It has a square tower, containing an excellent ring of eight bells, and a small spire, cowned with the figure of a dolphin of copper gilt, which turns as a vane. The interior of the church, no part of which appears to be older than the time of Hcury VII. is plain and neat, but contains nothing worthy of attention, except the font, brought, according to tradition, from Normandy, during the reign of the Conqueror. It is of a circular form, and surrounded with basso-relievos, divided by columns into different compartments, each containing a representation of a scriptural, or legendary subject. The largest of these is evidently designed for the Last^ Supper, but with this singularity, tliat only six of tlie apostles, partake of the repast. Some have not scrupled to assign a Saxon origin to this piece of workmanship.* In the church-yard, near the chancel-door, is a monumental stone pf black marble, with the following inscription: " P. M. " Captain Nicholas Tetter«ell, through w hose prudence, valour, and loyalty, Charles [I. King of England, after he had escaped the sword of his merciless rebels, and his forces received a fatal overthrow at Worcester, September the 3d, 1651, was faithfully preserved and conveyed to France, departed this life the 26th day of July, 1674/' 2 E 4 Underneath *An ingenious writer, in the Cenileman's Magazine, (1807,) after a care- ful examination, has started donbis whether a performance of so early a period could possibly remain in such excellent preservation, and declares this conviction that it is in some measure a trick upon antiquaries. From the freshness of the work, and modern initials with the date 1745, on the plinth, he concludes, that it was executed in that year, and copied probably from an original performance of the kind belonging either to this, or sonic neighbour- ing church, and which original has been since destroyed. 120 StJSSEX. Underneath is a long poetical epitaph, now so defaced as not to be read without great difficulty ; and alyo inscriptions for his wife and son, who are interred in the same grave. * In this church -yard is a handsome monument^ erected by Mr, Kelly, to the memory of Mrs. Crouch of Drury Lane Theatre, who died at Brighton in 1805, in her 43d year. The Chapel Royal, situated in Prince's Place, was erected in 1793, on account of the rapid increase of the inhabitants and visi- tors; it was finished after a plan of Mr. Saunders, of Golden Square, London, and will conveniently hold a thousand persons. Besides these religious edifices, Brighton contains meeting- houses for the Quakers, Presbyterians, Baptists, Calvinistic, and Arminian Methodists, a Roman Catholic chapel, and a Jewish synagogue. Brighton, as might be expected, is amply provided with place* of public amusement. At the head of these may be ranked the Theatre, which stands in the new road between North Street and Church Street, and was first opened in 1807 : the former jplay-house in Duke Street having been found inadequate to the accommodation of the public. The audience part is very hand- some, * It appears that Charles, after his defeat, wandered over the country for six weeks, and at last found an asylum in the house of a Mr. Maurrel at Ovingdean, near Brighton. During his conceahnent there his friends agreed with Tettersell, who was the master of a coal-brig, to convey him across the Channel. The night before his departure he passed at the George Inn in West Street, (now known by the sign of King Charles's Head,) kept by ajnan named Smith, who soon recognised his royal guest, but had too much loyalty to betray him. The following morning, October 15th, he embarked and landed the same day at Fescamp, in Normandy. Soon after the Resto-? ration, Tettersell, probably with a view to remind the king of this service, bfougbt the vessel, which had been the means of his escape, up the Thames, pnd moored her opposite to Whitehall. The expedient was successful; an annuity of lOOl. was settled on him and his heirs for ever ; but the payment of it has been long discontinued, though it 19 believed that the claimants aye pot yet ^xtincf- SUSSEX. 121 some, and is furnished with two tieis of boxes, and a large gal- lery. The whole is elegantly fitted up, particularly the box ap- propriated to the Prince. A well constructed colonnade runs along the whole front of the edifice. The Royal Circus, situated on the Marlborough Steyne, is not only a new building, but an entirely new establishment, first opened in 1808, chiefly for the exhibition of horsemanship. At the Castle Tavern, on tlie west side of the Steyne, is an elegant suite of Asscnihly'rooms. The ball-room forms a rect- angle eighty feet by forty, with recesses sixteen feet by four at each end and side, decorated with columns corresponding with the pilasters continued round the room. Tiie compartments are adorned with paintings illustrative of the Story of Cupid and Psyche, and representations of Nox and Aurora occupy the two ends. From the ceiling, which is coved, and thirty-five feet high, hang three beautiful chandeliers. At the Old Ship Tavern, in Ship Street, is another set of pub- lic rooms. The ball-room, though less spacious and splendid tlian its rival at the Castle, is large and elegantly furnished, and adorned with an admirable portrait of Dr. Rassel,who is respected by the inhabitants as the first person that brougiit Brighton into general repute. During the season assemblies are held alternately at these two houses. Two libraries, Donaldson* s on the east side of the Steyne, and fValker's on the Marine Parade, afford an agreeable lounge, while Raggett* s Subscription House at the corner of the North Parade, affords the votaries of gaming every facility for indulging their fa- vourite propensity. Brighton possesses every possible convenience for sea-bathing ; and though this part of the coast is much exposed, yet that healthful exercise is liable to little interruption. Those, how« ever, who are deterred by the swell from the use of the uncon- fined element, or invalids who are unable to struggle with the waves, may at all times enjoy the salutary eflfects of immersion ^ commodious Baths, situated at ihe lower part of the Steyne. Here, 11^2 SUSSEX. Here, on one side of a handsome vestibule, are six cold baths, supplied by an engine from the sea, and on the other hot, sts eating and shower-baths. The town likewise possesses the advantage of a spring of Chalybeate water, which rises about half a mile westward of the church. Its chemical properties have been invesHgated and de*- scribed by Dr. Relhan, Dr. Hamilton, and other professional men; "whose experiments have proved tliat the water contains calca- reous earth, mixed with the vitriolic acid in the form of sole- nites, and also a considerable portion of iron. It has been found beneficial in cases of debility, indigestion, and other diseases which require tonic remedies ; and the proprietors have enclosed the spring with a neat building, where constant attendance is given during the season. The Market- house, built in 1734, is neat and convenient. It is open the whole week except Sunday ; but the principal marketi- days are Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. The wholesale fish-market is held on the beach, and is sup- plied by about one hundred boats, to each of which, on an ave- rage, three persons are attached. These are celebrated for their dexterity and resolution, which render thena excellent mariners. From May to the latter end of July, mackarel are caught in great plenty, and froin October to Christmas is the season for herrings. Soles, brill, and turbot, are common at all seasons of the year; and dorees, mullets, scate, and whitings, are occasionally very abundant. As Brigiiton is the nearest co-st to London, great ^art of tile fish taken here is purchased for the supply of the metropolis. Directly facing the south entrance of the market is the parish Workhouse, erected in 1733, on the site of a free chapel, or chantry, built by tlie Prior of St. Pancras at Lewes, the ground having been granted te him for the purpose by the lord of the manor, under a quit-rent of threepence per annum. To this chapel, which was dedicated to St. Bartholomew, and has given its name to the adjacent part of the town, was attached a habita- tion SUSSEX. 123 tion for Iwo or three officiating raonks, wlio ooiitinued to reside there till 1513, when the French, having made a descent on this coast, pillaged and set fire to the town. The chapel was partially desiroyed by the flames; but the norlhern extremity of the building which escaped was subsequently fitted up for the use of the vicar, and long distinguished by the appellation of the Prior's Lodge. In 1790 it was pulled down, and the present neat and commodious Vicarage-hoiise erected. The workmen, employed in laying the foundations, discovered several human skeletons and disjointed bones ; similar remains were found in digging the cellars of the houses immediately south of the work* house, which spot is tlience conjectured to have been the prin- cipal burial-place belonging to the chantry. Sir William Burrell relates, that in 1771, a small brass figure, apparently a votive offering of some person who bad escaped from shipwreck, was found in digging up the walls of some old buildings contiguous to this ancient cemetery. Here are three Free Schools, two of which were founded by private individuals for twenty -four boys each. The third, de- nominated the Union Charity School, was established by public contribution in 1807. A house capable of holding 300 boys has been erected in Middle Street, and Lancaster's system of educa- tion is adopted with great success. A girls' school, also, upon that plan was opened in the same street in 1809. Besides these institutions there is a Sunday School and School of In- dustry in Church Street, at which forty-six poor girls are edu- cated. The only military defence of this part of the coast is 2l Battery of six forty-two-pounders at the western extremity of the town. There was formerly another at the east end, erected by Henry VIII. and called the Block House, When first built it stood at some distance from the edge of the cliff's; but the co^ntinual en^ xjrp»cbinent8 of the eea having undermined its' foundations, it was jremoved about fifty years ago. » ; . • In the town are Barracks \\\ Church Str6^t and West Street, the the former capable of accommodating 320 men, and the latter 13(1, At a small distance from Brighton, on the Lewes road, are two much more extensive ranges of barracks, erected during the last and present war. Tbose nearest to the town are not perhaps in- ferior in external appearance and internal accommodation, to any similar building in the kingdom. Here horse, foot, and artillery, are generally stationed. On the Downs, about a mile from the extremity of the town, is a fine Race-course, with a «tand capable of containing a con- siderable number of spectators. The races, which take place either in July or August, are well attended by persons of the highest distinction. From the height of the ground, which is near 400 feet above the kvcl of the sea, it commands prospects highly diversified, and so extensive as to embrace ih€ Isle of Wight At a little distance from the race-ground is White-hawk Hill, on the summit of which a signal-house, erected during the last ^af, forms part of the chain that rui^s along the coast from Do- rer to Portsmouth. From some traces of an encampment still visiblo on this hill, it is supposed to have once been a Roman station. On HolHnghury Castl-e HUl, about two miles north of Brigh- ton, are also evident marks of a circular encampment, containing several tumuli, in which skeletons, detached bones, and a few Ro- man coins have at difterent times been discovered. On this hill is a Fire-beacon to convey signals of alarm, if necessary, during the night. CUCKFIELD, a small pleasant town, is situated on a rising ground nearly in the 4;entre of the ra^e, and indeed of the whole county, forty-six miles south of London, and fourteen from Brighton, on the mid- dle and shortest road to that fashionable w^ytering- place. The parish contains 290 houses, and 1700 inhabitants. The town has SUSSEX* 12^ has a weekly market on Friday, tlie cliarter for whicTi was granted by James II. and fairs on Wliit-Thnrsday and September 16. This manor, in the earby period of the English monarchy, be- longed to the Earls of Warren and Surrey, one of whom obtained of King Edward IL a charter for a market and a fair at this place. On tlie death of that nobleman witliout issue, Cuckfield,. with other large estates, was inherited by his sister, the Coun- tess of Arundel, and carried by her into tl)e noble family of Fitz- alan. The Chtirth is a spacious handsome building, adorned with a lofty spire, which, from its elevated situation, having been se- veral times damaged by lightning, is provided with an electric conductor to secure it from farther injury. It contains numerous monuments of several distinguivshed families, especially of tlie Burrells, the ancestors of Lord Gwydir and Sir Charles Merrick Burrell, for many of whom there are memorials from the time ©f Dr. Gerard Burrell, who was Archdeacon of Chichester, and vicar of this parish. Among those of later years, which are only cenotaphs, is a marble tablet by Fhixraan, in com^ memoration of Sir William Burrell, Bart, a gentleman well known for his industry in collecting materials illustrative of the history, antic^uities, and topography, of this county *. Here alsQ are interred many of the Sergisona of Cuckfield Place ; among others there is a handsome monument for Charles Sergison, Esq. who was a commissioner of the navy during the reign of Queen Anne ; and a tablet, finely executed hy Westraacott, for the lady of the late Colonel Sergison. A Free Grammar School for the instruction of youth in the Latin language was founded at Cuckfield, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, by tlie munificence of private^ individuals; ami f* house • Sir William was the younger brotlier of Lord Gwydir. In 1754, he was elected a Fellow of the RoyaJ and Anticjuarinn Societicfs, and in 1774 ap- pointed « Commissioner of Excise. On the decease of Sir Charles Raymond, Bart, whose daughter he liad married, he suceeeded to the tlUe^ and at hi5 death, in 1796, bequcat^ied Uis voluminous collection to the British Museum., 126 SUSSEX. house was afterwards built for the master, at the expense of Lady Dorothy Shirley. • Cuckjield Place, erected in the latter part of the sixteenth century, stands about half a mile soutli of the town, in a pic- turesque situation, surrounded with a park. The approach is from the high road to Brighton by a spacious gravel-walk, bor- dered with noble trees to the gate-house, which opens into £i court leading to the principal entrance of the mansion. Here is an apartment called the Ship Room, from various models of ships that are deposited in it. Cuckfieid Place v, as for many years the saat of the Sersfisons, to whom also belonged Biitler^s Green, anotlier mansion about a mile eastward of the town ; but at the death of Colonel Sergison, in 1812, thege> with- other pos- sessions, devolved to his sister, tlie wife of the Rev, William St. Pritchard. • Lewes, ancient borough and market town, which holds tjie, second rank in this county for extent and population, stands on the border of the South Downs, about forty-nine miles from London, and eiglit from Brighton. Its situation on a declivity washed by the Ouse, surrounded by an amphitheatre of higher hills, is more than commonly beautifut, and higljly favourable to com- merce. In 1801, it contained 681 houses, and 4422 inhabitants, >vhose number had, in ISll, increased to upw?*rds of 7000. Lewes is a borough by prescription, having returned two mem- bers to Parliament ever since 23 Edward I. The right of elec- tion is vested in the inhabitants paying scot and lot, in numbeir about 390. Tliough not incorporated, Lewes lays claim to some particular privileges, and the town records afford satisfactory evidence of its having formerly possessed powers similar to those of a corporation, having then been governed by a body of twelve, and another of twenty four persons with two constables at their 9 head. SUSSEX. 12T l»oad. Under the lalUr title the two chief municipal ofiiccis are Utill annually elected at the coiirt-lret. . That Lewes is a place of high antiquity the numerous relic* discovered in the town and neighhourijood, as well as its architec- tural remains, sufficiently attest. The probability that here was the site of the Ronaan station, known by the name of Mutuan- tonis, or Maiitantovds, has already been discussed. Antiquaries are not ajjjreed respecting the origin of the modern appellation which the fatlier of English topography derives from the Saxon i- hts-fees, many of which he bestowed on his Norman friends and followers, reserving for himself the town and castle^ In his family they continued for several generations, till, in the reign of Henry III. John, Earl of Warren, having forfeited his estates for some misdemeanor, this manor, with some other lord- ships, was given to the queen's uncle, Peter de Savoy ; but again restored to the successor of the former owner, as a reward for his adherence to the royal cause. On his death, without issue, his sister, Alice, became his heir ; and, by marriage to Edmund Fitz-Alan, Earl of Arundel, carried the estate into that family. After various changes of proprietors," through attainders and new grants, this lordship became divided early in the fifteenth century, and has never since been united in one person. The Castle, of an irregular oval figure, stood on the east side of the town. The great gate-way, or entrance, which was some- what advanced before the walls of the castle on the south side, is yet entire. It was defended by two towers on its south front, had also machicolations, and on the side next the castle two portcullises and a tower, in which is a staircase leading to a room that has recently been fitted up for the meetings of a lodge of Free-masons. This gateway is of mixed architecture ; the innet arch having every appearance of Saxon origin, while the outer is of the more modern style of Henry III. At the extremities of the longest diameter of the area of the castle, which runs nearly north-east and south-west, are two circular artificial mounts for keeps. Of the eastern keep a small fragment only remains; ai.d tlie western is fast yielding to the ravages of time. The lattt r, which of adultery seem to have been much better calculated to produce the de- aired effect than those of the present day, when that crime is treated as » civil offence, for which pecuniary compensation alone can be deniiinded* SUSSEX. 129 which was quadrangular, with a hexagonal tower at eacli cor- ner, diminishing upward, commands a wide and highly diversi- fied prospect. From this building extend immense earth-works, with two ditches, on the inner bank of which are some ruined walls. These works, at their north-west corner, embrace a small camp, of a long oval figure, whose north and west sides they for- tify. The north side of the great inclosure, being defended by a marsli, is single-trenched ; the east and south sides retain tlieir original form, distinct from the later works, which are very high ; while the others are barely discoverable in tlie meadows. The east side is lost, except a small portion which may be traced where it falls into the little camp. The double keep, termed in old writings BraymountSy is a feature peculiar to this castle. Between the keeps is a bowling-green and timber- yard ; and the western rampart is cut through by a road leading to the downs, across a field corruptly called Walling^ for WaWs End, where, according to tradition, a bloody battle was fought with the Danes, who were defeated, and whose king, or captain, Magnus, was taken prisoner. Mr. Gough suggests,* that the small camp mentioned above might have been constructed on this occasion, prior to the erection of the castle by the Earl of Warren. The property is divided between the Earl of Abergavenny and the Dukes of Norfolk and Dorset, one half belonging to the former, and a quarter to each of the latter. In 1774, the site and ruins were leased for ninety-nine years to Mr. Thomas Friend, who, at his death, bequeathed his interest in them to his nephew, Mr. Thomas Kempe. In 1078 a Priory, the first and chief house of the Cluniac order in England, was founded here by the first Earl of Warren, and his wife, Gundreda, tlie fifth daughter of William the Con- queror. The history of its foundation is in substance thus related in the charter. The earl and his lady being on a pilgrimage to Rome, visited several religious houses in France in order to offer jup their prayers. Proceeding into Burgundy, they were there Vol. XIV. 2 F informecj * Cough's Camden, Vol. I. 130 SUSSEX, informed that they could not with safety prosecute their journey, on account of a war hetween tlie pope and the emperor; where- fore, turning aside, they went to the monastery of Cluni, then in high repute for its extraordinary sanctity. Here they witnessed such devotion, humility, and charity in the monks, and found such an honourable and kind reception, that they began to en- tertain a love and veneration for the order in general, and for that house in particular. Being already determined, by the persua- sion of Archbishop lianfranc, to found a religious house, they applied to the abbot for three or four monks for the intended mo- nastery, promising to endow it with a sufficiency for the support of twelve monks, and to bestow on them the church of St. Pan- eras under the castle of Lewes, which church the earl found con- structed only of woodj but had rebuilt with stone. The abbot did not at first lend a favourable ear to the proposal, objecting to the great distance, and the dangers of the sea ; but, at length, yield- ed to the intreaties of the earl, on condition that he would, by deed, make over the promised estates, and also to procure the king's licence and confirmation. Till this was done, he would not suffer any of his monks to set out. These preliminaries being accomplished, four monks departed for England, and were not long established before they began to have a view to independ- ence, representing, to their patron, that in consideration of the dangers to which he was daily exposed from the commotions in the kingdom, owing to the accession of William Rufus, it would be right to give the prior and brethren of St. Pancras new grants and charters for their lands, the former deeds being depo- sited in the abbey of Cluni. This he accordingly did, and pro- cured for them the confirmation of the king. Grose, fi'om whom the preceding account is taken, enumerates the lands, churches, and other possessions with which this priory was endowed by the founder, who, both in the body and at the conclusion of his charter, imprecates Divine vengeance against any of his heirs who should diminish or infringe these donations, loading them, according to his own expression, with every curse whicU SlJSS£X» 131 %hich a father can denounce against wicked children ; hut those who preserve and defend it, with every blessing that a parent can bestow on his dutiful and virtuous offspring. The prior of Lewes, on particular occasions, claimed the privi- lege of being high-cliainberlain to the abbot of Cluni ; and was often his vicar-general in EnglaJid, Scotland, and Ireland. On that foreign convent this house continued dependent till 47 Edward III. who, in consideration of the surrender of certain churches to him and his heirs, made it an indigenous, or native priory, and discharged it from all impositions, to which, as an alien, it had been liable. At tjie request of Richard, Earl of Arundel, he extended this naturalization to the subordinate cells, which were the priories of Castle Acre, Prittlewell, Farleigh, Horton, and Stanegate, on condition that the stipends, which they were bound to contribute to foreign religious houses, should in future be paid to the king. In the chapter-house of this priory were interred many persons of distinction. The munificent founder, who died in the year 1089, was here buried under a monument of white marble, and celebrated by the monks in this inscription : Hie Guillelme Comes locus est laudls tibi foraes, Hujus fundator et largus Sedis amator. Iste tuum funus decorat, placwit quia rnunus, Pauperibus Christi, quod prompta mente dedisti Ille tuos cineres servat Pan.cratitis haeies. Sanctorum castris qui te sociabit in asiris. Optime Pancrati fer opera te glorificanti, Daque poli sedem taieni tibi qui dedit sedem. Thi» was also the burial-place of Gundred, his countess, and many of their descendants, among whom were the second, fourth, fifth, and sixth Earls of Warren. In 49 Edward HI. Richard Fitz-Alan, Earl of Arundel, by his will, bequeathed his body to be deposited in this chapter-house, near the tomb of his wife, Eleanor of I^iucaster, He also directed 2001. to be laid out in 2F2 thtt 132 SUSSEX. the purchase of lands for the monks of liCwes ; or else one or two churches to be appropriated to the monastery for the maintenance of two monks to celebrate two masses daily for the souls of his father and mothei-, his wife, with their children and successors, and all Christian people, in the chapel of St. Thomas the Martyr in that house, or in the chapel of Our Lady on the north of the great church.* Some idea may be formed of the extensive scale of this esta- blishment, from the circumstance that its walls embraced an area of near forty acres ; and, from the description of the church pre- served by Willis, we may reasonably conclude that the buildings were not less remarkable for magnificence than for extent. The particulars given by that writer are prefaced with this remark : The dimensions of this magnificent church, returned by the com- missioners, is, as I conceive, a great curiosity; and it is pity that those of the rest of our monasteries, at least as many as have been taken in like m.anner, were not thoroughly searched in our offices and published. These dimensions, with a letter wrote to Cromwell, I shall subjoin, as I took them from a book in the Cottonian library : — ' Sussex, March, 24, 1538. My lord, I humblie commend me to your lordship. The last I wrote to your lordship was the 20tli day of this present month by the hands of Mr. Williamson, by the which I advertised your lordship of the length and greatness of this church and sale, we had begun to pull the whole down to the ground, and what manner and fashion thei used in pulling it down» I told your lordship of a vault on the right side of the high alter, that was borne with four pillars, having about it five chapels, which be compassed in with the walls, 70 stepys of length, that is, feet 210. All this is downe Thursday and Friday last. Now we ar a plucking down an higher vaulle, borne up by 4 thick and gross pillars, 14 foot from side to side, about in circumference 45 feet. This shall down for our 2d work. As it goeth forward I will advise your lordship from time to time, that your lordship may ♦ Dugdale's Bar. p. 318. SUSSEX. 133 may know with how many men we have done this. We brought from London 17 persons, 3 carpenters, 2 smiths, 2 plummers, and ofle that keepeth the furnace. Every one of these attendeth to his own office ; 10 of them heweth tlie walls about, among the which are the 3 carpenters. These made props to underset where the other cut away; the other brake and cut the walls. These men are exercised much better than other men that we find here in the country. AVherefore we must both have more men and other things also that we have need of. All the which I shall ■within these two or three days shewe your lordship by mouth. A Tuesday they began to cast the lead, and it shall be done with such diligence and saving as may be ; so that our trust is that your lordship shall be much satisfied with what we do. Unto whom I most humbly commend myself much desiring God to maintain your health, your honour, your hear t's ease. Af Lewes March 24, 1537. Your Lordship's servant, ' John Portmarus.' ' Underneath here your lordship shall see a just measure of the whole abbey : length of the church 150, height 63 foot; the circumference about it 1558 foot ; the wall of the fore-front thick 10 foot. The thickness of the vaults 4 foot. There be in the church 32 pillars standing equally from the walls — an high roof made for the bells — 8 pillars very high, thick 13 foot, about 45 foot. Th' other 24 are for the most part 10 foot thick and 25 about. The height of the greater sort is 42 foot. Of th' other 18 foot. The height of the roof before the high alter is 93 foot. The height of the steeple at the front is 90 foot." At the surrender of this house, in 1529, its revenues were va- lued, as Dugdale informs us, at 9201. 4s. 6d. ; but, according to Speed, at 10911. 9s. 6d. The site was first granted 29 Henry VIII. to Thomas Lord Cromwell ; and 2 Elizabeth to Richard Baker and Richard Sackville. The buildings, it is presumed, were not wholly demolished at the Dissolution, for the priory was some- time inhabited by the Earls of Dorset, and thence received the 2 F 3 appellation 134 SUSSEX. appellation of the Lord's Place. It was at length destroyed by fire, but the precise time of tliis accident is not ascerlained.* The priory estates came into the possession of the Thanet family « hy the marriage of John Tufton, Earl of fhanet, with Margaret, the daughter and heir of Richard Sackville, Earl of Dorset. In 1709 the site of the priory was sold,, together with the manor, borough, or lordship of Southover, to Nathaniel Trayton, Esq. of Lewes, whose son bequeathed it to Samuel Durant, Esq. From tlie industry employed at the Dissolution, in breaking and cutting^ and the des'irnctive effects of the conflagration, very small remains of this once stately pile now exist. Within the walls weiind only the shells of some apartments, a cloister, with rude massive vaulted roofs, the side of the hall under which runs a clear stream, an oven seventeen feet wide ; and the piers of the gate, with the posterns, having clustered round pillars of Sussex marble, some of which are adorned with nail- headed quatrefoils. North north-east of the ruins is a large mount, reported to have been thrown up by one of the Earls of Dorset, lest he should be overlooked by a brother living at Lewes, with whom he was at enmity. Towards the south-west was a large brick pigeon-house in the form of a cross, built probably when the priory was inhabited by the Dorset family, and containing recesses for more than 3000 pair of doves. One end only is now left, the rest having been recently taken down, and the materials sold. Grose observes, that in several of the main walls of these ruins are square spiracles continued frora one end to the otfier, and, by the vulgar, considered as contrivances of the monks for * The probabihty is, tliat it happened early in the seventeenth century. The portrait of an Earl of Dorset, preserved in the Newton family, has al- ways been considered as representing hira in whose time tlie building vt'as burned. On one side is an carl's coronet, with the Dorset arms, and on the other 1608, the year when the picture was painted. An ancestor of the Newtons, who was steward to the Earls of Dorset, and died in 1648, is said to have erected the family' mansion in Southover with Caen stone brought from the priory after the fire. SUSSEX. 13d for playing off some juggling tricks or miracles, but really in- tended to facilitate the drying of the walls ; a very necessary consideration, especially in walls of such extraordinary thickness as were commonly made for religious houses."* Besides the priory of St. Pancras, Lewes is said by some writers to have had a priory of Grey Friars, a monastery dedi- cated to St. James, and a hospital to St. Nicholas. This state- ment, however, seeems to be erroneous, as we find no authentic account of any of these institutions. So much appears certain, that near the gate of the monastery, as Tanner informs us, there "Was a hospital for thirteen poor brethren and sisters, dedicated to St. James, which is called by Leland, in his Collectanea, a cell to the priory of Lewes. The name of the founder, the value of the estates belonging to the hospital, and tlie maimer in which they ■were disposed of at the Dissolution, cannot now be ascertained. The walls of this edifice were from time to time pulled down, and carried away for the sake of the stones,, so that in Grose^s time nothing was standing but the chancel of the chapel, then used as a granary and stable. From such information as he could pro- cure on the spot, it was concluded that thi$ chapel must have been a large regular building, composed of a nave, two side aisles, and a chancel. On the north side of it might be traced the foundation of another building, perhaps the cells of the inmates of the hos- pital, forming a right-angled parallelogram sixty feet long, and eighteen broad, f Lewes was once strongly fortified ; and vestiges of intrench- ments are yet visible, particularly on the north and south sides- of the town. Though there are no apparent tokens of walls, yet the piers of the west gate were till lately standing. It is supposed to have been built by John, eighth Earl of Warren, in the time of Edward in. who granted the townsmen murage for five years to repair the walls as Henry III. had done seventy years before 9i the desire of his grandfather. 2 F 4 Before • Gross's Anliq. V. 175. f Ibid. V. 158. 136 SUSSEX. Before the Reformation, this town, including the suburbs of Southover and the ClifFe, comprehended twelve parish churches, which have since been reduced to half the number. These are, St, Peter*s and St. Mary Westout, formerly two parishes, but now generally called *S'^. Anns\ St. Michael in Foro, St. John sub Castro^ All Saints, St, John Baptist, Southover, and »S^. Tho- mas in the Cliff'e. The most remarkable of these is the church of St. John sub Castro, situated in the middle of the small oral camp already mentioned in the description of the castle.* It is very ancient, consisting of the nave only of the original building. The archi- tecture is rude ; and the south flint wall apparently of the same date as the ruins of that which surrounded the area of the castle. In some places the stones are laid in the herring-bone fashion, as in the castle of Guildford. These circumstances, together with the entrance at the west end by a deep descent of seven or eight steps, and the remains of the lights near the roof, now filled up, afford evidence of a Saxon origin. The south portal is formed by a very ancient Saxon arch, but obscured by a mean modern porch. The steeple is of later date than the rest of the building, and of different workmanship. This church, as it is believed, was origi- nally constructed in the shape of a cross, with the tower in the centre. Some vestiges of the chancel may still be traced ; and the marks of the former roof, which was higher than the present, are visible on the tower. Camden describes this edifice as ruinous, and over- grown with brambles. It was afterwards contracted and repaired probably in 1635, as a small stone tablet, with that date, is fixed near • Some labourers digging chalk in a bank thirty feet high, near the north- east corner of this church-yard, found a brass fibula, of circular form, which had been gilt and studded. It was composed of two thin plates of brass, somewlpat more than two-tenths of an inch broad, united by a small concave hoop. The studs were cut off to come at the inscription, which is in old English characters on the upper circle : Ave Maria gracia plen» At lh« distance of about fifteen feet a human skeletoa was discovered. — Sir WiUi«m BarrclVi MSS, SUSSEX. 137 tiear the porch in the south wall over two names, perhaps tlidse of tlie church-wardens rudely cut and uncouthly spelt. Tiie style of the repairs, particularly on the north front, where the parts of the old wall which had fallen down are replaced with alternate squares of stone and flint, corresponds with the above date. What chiefly engages the attention of the curious in this church is an inscription copied by Camden, and concerning v/hich a contemporary * gives us this farther information : " The auncient monument truly described by Mr. Camden was placed in the circumference of the chauncel door of St. John^s Church, which chauncel was pulled down in 1587, and the monument de- faced. That which is now to be seen in tlie south wall of tiiat church was collected out of the ruines so many as could be found and supplyed and fixed where they now stand, by such as were lovers and favourers of antiquities." This inscription, which still occupies the same place on the outside of the south wall, is of the monumental kind and semicircular, being cut on fifteen stones of different sizes. The characters on the first, second, third, and fourth, are modern, probably engraved when they were last set up to replace others destroyed by time or accidents. The twelfth stone is of later date than the remaining ten, which are very ancient, the characters being Saxon, rudely and deeply en- graved. The diameter of the semicircle, including the two ex- treme ends of the stones is seven feet nine inches. Within it an ancient grave-stone, bearing the figure of a cross, which had long lain in the belfry, has been inserted in an upright position. The inscription may be thus read : Clauditur hie Miles, Danorum rcgia proles Mangnus nomen ci, Manguee nota progeniei ; Deponens Mangnum, se raoribus induit agnuin> Prepete pro vita, fit parviilus anchorita. These • Mr. Howe, steward to Edward Lord Bergavenny, from 1597 to 162i?, in liib MS. Collections quoted by Sir William Currell. S3I SUSSEX. These lines maybe thus rendered " Here lies a soldier of the royal race of Denmark, whose name Mangnus denotes his noble lineage: laying aside his greatness, he assumed a lamb-like de- portment, changing a busy life for that of a humble anchorite."* A drawing of tliis curious monument was laid before the So- ciety of Antiquaries, who were of opinion, from the characters of the inscription, that it was executed about the time of Edward III. ; but that no certain judgment could be formed respecting the age of the grave-stone, the fashion of which varied according ta the fancy of the workman, or his employers. Concerning the person for whom this memorial was designed nothing is known with precision. According to Mr. Elliott, a correspondent of Sir William Burrell's, f the most generally re- ceived opinion is, that Magnus was the youngest of the three sons by the first wife of King Harold II. whose mother Githa was a Danish princess, sister of Sweyne, the successor of Hardica- nute. After the Norman Conquest HaroWs sons, Edmund, Godwin, and Magnus, fled to Ireland, and, about 1069, made a de- scent upon the English coast, after which they were never heard ©f. It seems by no means difficult to reconcile this account with the tradition recorded by Grose, that Magnus was a. Danish general, and commanded a large party of his countrymen, who • made an incursion into these parts, in which expedition all his men were slain, and himself, being wounded and taken prisoner, was so kindly treated that he became a convert to Christianity, ©r at least, if before a Christian, he then embraced the life of an anchorite ; but the story adds, that his wounds soon brought him to the grave. The field called the Walling, already men- tioned, is said to have been the spot where the engagement hap- pened. Over * *' It seems singnlar," remarks Mr. Grose, "that tliough tlie sole conceit ol this punning inscription turns on the word Magnus, yet no such word is to be found in the whole epitaph, the name of the deceased being spelt !R1angnus, and the same unlucky n intervening between the a and c, ia every case." Antiq, V. 160. t MSS. in the Brit. Mos. fliUSSEX. 130 Over tlic communion-table is a good picture^ in the style of Rembrandt. The subject is the Presentation of Young Ciiildrcn to our Saviour. It was given about 1751, by John Crofts, Esq. executor to the widow of Captain Pawlett, by whom it is reported to have been taken in a prize at sea. St, John's Southover, though it has been contracted at the east end, is yet a large church, standing close to the gate of the priory. The tower was erected during the last century. In the wall is inserted a stone which is supposed to have belonged to the old conventual church, from the circumstance of its having be- neath a mitre, the letters T. A. to denote that it was consecrated by Archbishop Theobald. In the window over the altar are some coats of arms in painted glass. On the wall of the south aisle is a marble tablet, placed there I>y the late Sir William Burrell, with this inscription ; Within this pew stands the torab-stono of GuNDREP, daughter of William the Conqueror, and wife of William the first Earl of Warren, having been deposit*, over her remains in the Chapter-house of Lewes Priory, and lately discovered in Isfield Church was removed to this place al the expence of William Burrell £sq^ A. D. 1775. This stone, of black marble, was found under a monument of the Shirleys at Isfield, and exhibits the following remains of aa epitaph of monkish composition: ^ Stirps Gundreda ducum, decus evi nobile germen, Intulit ecclesiis Anglorura balsama morum : Martha fuit miseris j fuit ex pietate Maria. Pars obiit Marthe, superest pars magna Marie. O pie Pancrati, testis pietatis et equi, Te fecit heredera ; tu clemens suscipe matrem. Sexta kalendaruni Junii lux obvia carnis }fregit alabastri.... .... SUSSEX. All Saints, at the top of the High Street, is a new edifice of brick, with stone rustic quoins, built under the direction of Mr. Wilde, on the site of the old church, which was taken down in 1805 *. Lower down tlie High Street is St, Michael in Foro, which, being very ruinous, was rebuilt in 1755. The front has been much admired for its neatness. St. Peter and St. Mary, Westout, commonly called St. Ann's, was repaireii in 1775. All the preceding are rectories. St. Thomas in the Cliffe, a pecu- liar of the Arclibishop of Canterbury, is accounted one of the neatest parish churches in the county j the altar in particular is remarkably elegant. The suburb in which it stands was named from its situation under a chalky cliff, whose foot is washed by the Ouse. There are several religious edifices for Dissenters in Lewes. The Presbyterian Meeting-house, formerly the Bull Inn, was originally built for the town residence of George Goring, Esq. whose monument in St. Mj^chaels, was removed when that church was rebuilt. It stands close to the site of the west gate, the ruins of which were some years since taken down. The Quakers have a meeting-house in Friar's Walk, the Arminian Methodists in St. Mary's Lane, and the General Baptists in Southover. In the ClifFe is a place of worship for the Particular Baptists, a chapel erected under the patronage of the late Countess of Hunt- ingdon, and another for the Calvinists. The Shire Hall in the High Street is a new building, planned with equal attention to elegance and convenience. Here the Summer Assizes for the county and the Quarter Sessions for its eastern * 111 preparing to lay the foundations of the new church it was found ne- cessary to disturb the repositories of the dead. Among the rest a leaden cof- fin was taken up : when opened it exhibited the complete skeleton of a body which had been interred about sixty years, and the legs and thigh-bones of which were covered with myriads of a species of fly, perhaps unknown to na- turalists, as active and strong on the wing as gnats on a summer evening; though the lead was perfectly sound, and had not the smallest crevice for the admission of air. e SUSSEX. 141 eastern division are regularly held. The old town-hall, which was erected in 1761, stood a little to the southward of this edi- fice in the very centre of the principal street ; a situation which caused it to be justly considered as a public nuisance. The House of Correction, built about 1794, on the plan re- commended by Howard, contains thirty-two cells, a chapel, and other accommodations for the prisoners, besides the apartments of the keeper. The regulations of this gaol are calculated to pro- mote the comfort and cleanliness of the prisoners, and reflect cre- dit on the keeper, and the magistrates. The Free Grammar School was originally established in 1512, by Mrs. Agnes Morley of Southover, but in 1706 was removed to St. Ann^s, in consequence of a legacy bequeathed by Mrs. Mary Jenkins. The salary arises from the rents of houses, and an annuity issuing out of the neighbouring manor of Hamsey. Lewes has a neat Theatre, which has of late years been con- eiderably enlarged and improved, and Assemblies are frequently held during the winter in the rooms of the Star Inn. For the convenience of such as delight in more vigorous exercise a spa- cious Bowling-green has long been kept up within the precincts of the castle. A Library Society was established here in 1786. From a very small beginning it has gradually acquired such importance as to possess an excellent collection, which is deposited in a room lately fitted up for the purpose by Mr. Baxter, bookseller. The m€etings of the Sussex Agricultural Society, instituted in 1796, are held at Lewes. The sliew of cattle for the premiums offered by it generally takes place in the beginning of August, and is numerously attended by the gentlemen and farmers of this and the neighbouring counties. The Market is daily supplied with necessaries for the table, but Saturday is the market-day for corn. There are two fairs for black cattle, on May 6, and Whit Tuesday, and a sheep fair on the 2d of October. This last, which draws together from fifty 1 to to eighty thousand sheep was formerly kept in the Cliffe, but, on account of its extraordinary increase, is now held near the bar- racks. The air of Lewes is considered very salubrious. The town, from its declivity of site, is remarkably clean ; the streets are in general spacious, well lighted, and watched. The river Ouse, which runs through the town under a handsome bridge, is navi- gable for barges to the distance of six miles up the country, and affords a ready communication with the harbour of Newhaven at its mouth. The increase of its trade of late years has been pro- portionate to that of its population ; and two respectable banks facilitate the transaction of business. On a hill about a mile from the town is the Race-course, ac- counted one of the bes^t in England. A commodious stand, com- manding a view of nearly the whole course, was erected by sub- scription in 1772. The races, usually held in the first week of August, continue three days, on the first of which the king's plate of 100 guineas is run for, if the weather permit, and there be horses qualified to start for it. This hill was the scene of an obstinate battle fought on the 14th of May 1264, between Henry III. and the army of the barons under Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester. The royal forces were divided into three bodies ; the right was entrusted to Prince Edward, the left to Henry's brother, Richard, Earl of Cornwall, King of the Romans, while Henry himself headed the centre. Montfort formed his troops into four divisions : one of these he commanded in person, the second was led by his son, the third by the Earl of Gloucester, and the fourth composed of Londoners, by Nicholas Segrave *. Prince Edward, burning with impatience to revenge the insults offered to the queen, his mother, by the populace of London, attacked these last with such impetuosity, that they immediately fled, and were pursued with great slaughter. Montfort, taking advantage of this separation, vigorously charged the remaining divisions of the royal array, which * See " beauties," Vol. X. p. 141, 142. SUSSEX, 143 Ijhich he put to tlie rout. The king and his brotlier were taken prisoners, anil coiiduclecl to the priory. The castie was still in the possession of a body of the roj-al troops, who were joined by many of the fuj^ntives from the field ; hut finding the town in the power of the victorious barons, and themselves surrounded on all sides, they threw down their arms, and surrendered at dis-» cretion. At length Prince Edward, returning in triumph from the pursuit of the Londoners, learned with amazement the fate of his father and uncle. He resolved to make an effort to set them at liberty, but his followers were too much intimidated to second his ardour, and he was finally compelled to submit to the con- ditions subscribed by his father, who agreed that the prince and his cousin Henry, son to the King of the Romans, should re- main as hostages in the hands of the barons, till all their differ- ences were adjusted by the authority of Parliament. In memory of this event, an eminence near the race-course, now used as a beacon, has ever since retained the name of Mount Harry . Most of the slain were interred near the spot in barrows, vestiges of which are still sufficiently obvious. About a mile from the town, on a rising ground, to tlie right of the road leading to Brighton, are the new Barracks, composed^ of numerous detached buildings, principally of timber, which have the appiearance of a large village. The old barracks stood on the opposite side of the road, at a greater distance from the town ; but, the situation being deemed unhealthy, they were re- moved ; though for some reason which it would be difficult to divine, the Military Hospital alone was excluded from the bene- fit of the change. Aldrington, formerly a considerable village between Brigh- ton and Shoreham, is conjectured by some anti * Young's Agric. Surv. of Sussex, t Gougli's Camd. Vol. I. 4 SUSSEX. 167 broken in 1783, by the fall of the pillars which supported the pediment. On a black marble tablet, at the back of the cano- py, is an inscription recording his charities. The principal ornament of this church is a Gothic mauso- leum, over the entrance of which is this inscription: Suis sibiqiie J. B. HOLROYD Dominus Sheffidd, Here are several Latin inscriptions for the family of the noble founder, among the rest for his father and his younger brother Daniel, who, being of the forlorn hope, was killed 'in' the desperate assault on the Moro Castle at the Havannah in 1762. Here also are deposited the remains of his lordship's particular friend, Edward Gibbon, the celebrated historian, with the following inscription, from the classic pen of the Rev. Dr. Parr : Edwaudus Gibbon, Criticus acri ingenio et mulliplici floctrinS. ornatus, ideraque historicorum qui fortunara Imperii Roniani vel labentis et inclinati vel eversi et funditus deleti litteris raandaverint omnium facile princeps ; cujus in moribuseratinoderatio animi cum liberali quadam specie conjunctii, in sernione inulta; gravitati couiitas suaviter adspersa, in scriptis _% copiosuni. splendidum, conciniium orbe verborum et summo artificio distinctum orationis genus reconditae exquisiiaque sententia, £t in momentis rerum politicarum ^ observandis acuta et perspicax prudentia. 2 H 4 vixit 163 SUSSEX. Vixitannos LVl mens. VII dies XXVIII decessit XVII cal. Feb. anno sacro MDCCLXXXXIV. Et in hoc mausoleo sepultns est ex Toluntate Johannis dornini Sheffield, Qui araico bene merenti et convictori hunianissirao H. Tab. P. C* On the northern border of this rape, partly in the parish of Frant, and partly in that of Lamberhurst in Kent, on a point of land included between two branches of the little ri- ver Tun, which here divides the two counties, are situated the remains of Begeham or Bar/ham Abbey. This was one of the first foundations for the regular canons of the Praemonstraten- sian order, though the community was not originally established on this spot; their first residence having been at Otteham, in this county, and afterwards at Brockley in Deptford. These primary foundations owed their existence, about the middle of the 12th century^ to the pious munificence of Ralph de Dene ; but the former place being found objectionable, on account of its extreme poverty, the monks soon removed to Brockley. There also they met with obstacles to their comfort, on which Sir Robert de Thurnham, a great patron of monastic institu- tions, and one of the companions of Richard I. in the holy wars, with the consent of his lord paramount, the earl of Clare, granted to these canons all his lands aUj'^egeham, in pure and perpetual alms, for the purpose of budding a new abbey. They removed in consequence to this spot, and per^ manently established their community, on the feast of the an- nunciation, A. D. 1200. Here they continued tilll7 Henry VlII. when Cardinal Wolsey obtained a grant of this house as one of the smaller monasteries, for the endowment of his in- tended colleges, though its revenues amounted to 152/. per annum. On the disgrace of the cardinal, the manor, with the site of the abbey, reverted to the king, and seems to have re- ^ n^iained I SUSSEX. 169* mained in the crown, till Queen Elizabeth granted the estate to Anthony Brown Viscount Montague. About 11714 it was pur- chased by John Pratt, Esq. afterwards Lord Chief Justice of the King's Bench, and from Inrn descended to Marquis Camden, who derives from it the title of Viscount Bayham. The remains of this abbey are still considerable. They consist of the gateway, the nave of the church, and its attach- ed offices, part of the refectory, and apparently some portion of the cloisters, together with some cellars or appendages to the buttery. The church is a handsome building, perfect in its outline and principal walls, and contains some beautiful Gothic windows, and various good specimens of the architec- ture of the 13th century. At the north east end are the re- mains of a turret staircase, which appears to have conducted to a rood-loft, opening probably, into the church above the high altar, the traces of which are also plainly discernible. When these monastic remains came into the hands of Lord Chief Justice Pratt, the church was still entire ; but some buildings or repairs being wanted on the estate, the steward took off the roof, unknown to his lordship, and employed the timber and other materials for the purpose. Thus the tombs of the abbots and other monuments were left exposed to the injuries of the weather. With materials procured from dif- ferent parts of the ruins, John Pratt, Esq. grandson of the Lord Chief Justice, erected a small commodious habitation in the Gothic style, for his summer residence : but, being placed too near the ancient buildings, it has neither the advantage of a good view of them, nor itself contributes to the beauty and character of the scene. He also laid out the interior of the church and cloister as a pleasure garden, with flowers and gravel walks. The inquisitive visitor is permitted to inspect these remains on two days in the week by the^ present noble proprietor, who, it is said, has formed a project for building, on one of the adjacent elevations, a mansion more suitable to his lank, under the direction of Mr. Repton. A late writer justly observes. 170 SUSSEX- ^ observes that " wood, water, variety of ground and picturesque scenery are amply provided by nature ; while the venerable ruin introduced as a prominent and appropriate feature in the landscape would well entitle the place to the restoration of its ancient name, Beaulieu."* Bridge Castle, the seat of the Earl of Abergavenny, is also situated in the parish of Frant, about two miles from Tunbridge Wells. The manor is very extensive, comprising, besides se- veral subordinate manors, the forest of Waterdown, described by Camden as one of the three great forests of this county. Before the Norman invasion it belonged to Godwin, Earl of Kent, and after the Conquest was granted to the Earl of M©r- taigne and Cornwall. Here, at that early period, was a park or chase, surrounded by a pale fence, which the tenants of the manor were bound to keep in repair. The estate passed through several distinguished families, till 14 Henry VI. it descended to Sir Edward Neville, a younger son of the first Earl of West- moreland, by his marriage with the daughter and sole heir of Richard, Earl of Worcester and Lord Bergavenny, in whose right also he succeeded to the latter title. He died in 1480, and from him this estate has, with other possessions, been trans- mitted to the present noble proprietor. The ancient mansion of Eridge, though never the principal residence of the Neville family, and only used as a hunting- seat, was on a large scale. It would appear, from the parts which still remain, to have been a regular quadrangle. The old gallery, a large handsome room, occupies the entire front of the modern edifice ; but as the foundations of the building extend considerably beyond the present front, it is conjectured that this gallery formed one of the inner sides of the square. It was sufficiently spacious to afford accommodations for Queen Elizabeth, who in her progress through part of Kent and Sussex, in 1573, visited Eridge, where she passed six days, and gave audience * Amsinck's Tunbridge Wells and its Neighbourhood, p. 78, SUSSEX. 171 audience to the French ambassador.* It was a visitor at this house who, in the beginning of the following century, discover- ed the medicinal virtues of the chalybeate water of this neigh- bourhood, and thus became the founder of the celebrity of Tunbridge Wejls.f From the time of Charles II. Eridge ap- pears to have been altogether deserted by its noble owners ; much of the building was pulled down for the sake of the ma- terials, and the whole demesne exhibited marks of total neg- lect. At length the present Earl of Abergavenny, having dis- posed of Kidbrooke, near East Grinstead, turned his attention towards this dilapidated mansion of his ancestors, which he re- paired, or rather rebuilt, as it now appears. Eridge Castle is an irregular edifice, constructed, as its name implies, in the castellated style, embattled and flanked with round towers, but without any imitation of ancient architecture in * It related that the queen prolonged her stay in order to recover from the fatigues which she had ifacurred during lier perilous journey. On this subject Lord Burleigh in a letter to ihe Earl of Shrewsbury, from Mr. Guide- ford's house at Henipsted, sa3's, tliat " the queen had a hard beginning of her progress in the wild of Kent, and some part of Sussex, where surely were more dangerous rocks and valleys and much worse ground than was in the Peak i but that they were then bending to Rye, and so to Dover, where they should have amends." Strype's Ann. II. 314. t This v<'as Dudley, Lord North, a young nobleman of good abilities but dissolute manners, who, having injured his constitution, retired to Eridge for the benefit of a pure air and the advantage of seclusion from his ordinary ha- bits of dissipation. In his excursions through this wild country, his attention was excited by the ochreous appearance of the water. He was induced to try its effects, and received so much benefit that he returned the following «uminer, and persevered in the use of the newly discovered medicine with auch success that his health was completely re-established, and he lived to the advanced age of 85. He wrote a curious work intituled a Forest nromiS' cuous of several Seasons prodvction, printed in 1637, in a marginal note to which he says; — " The use of Tunbridge and Epsona waters for health and cure I first made known to London and the king^Jj^eople ; the Spaw is a chargeable and inconvenient journey to sick bodies, besides the money it car- ries out of the kingdom, and inconvenience to religion." 172 SUS1SEX. ill the doors, windows, or other details. It stands on a bold eminence in the midst of a park well wooded and watered, com- prehending about 2000 acres, and a demesne of near 7000. In this mansion, which is rather calculated for comfort than ostf»n- tation, is a portrait which has been handed down in the family as an original of the king-making Earl of Warwick, to whom the estate once belonged ; but which is probably a eopy of some rude original that has long since perished. In the park on a high ground between Frant and Mayfield, are the remains of a fortification which is ascribed to the Saxon invaders of this country, and yet retains the name of Saxonhury Hill. The foss, plainly discernible, encloses an area of two acres, having but one outlet ; the apex of the hill within is formed of a compact body of stone on which doubtless was erected some strong fortress. Another place in this park called Dane's Gate is presumed to have been part of a military way communicating between Crowborogh, indisputably a Banish station, and Saxonbury Hill. Glynde is a neat pleasant village on the bank of the Ouse, in which is the ancient seat of Lord Hampden. In very early times it belonged to a family of its own name whose heiress marrying Sir Richard Walleys, it continued in that race of knights for five generations, and then went by the co-heiress about the time of Henry VI. to the Morleys, a family of great fame and respectability in these parts, who continued here dis- charging the highest provincial offices till about 1680, when Glynde passed in marriage with the widow of William Morley, Esq. to John Trevor, Esq. eldest son of Sir John Trevor, secre- triry of state to Charles II. On the death of his eldest son in 1719, the estate devolved to the Hon. John Trevor, from whom it seems to have gone immediately to Dr. Trevor, late bishop of Durham, who made many improvements here ; and, dying in 1771, left this seat to his brother Viscount Hampden, entailing it with the honour. His eldest son is the present proprietor; ttif family, however, reside but little at this place. The man- i sion 173 sion is a noble pile of building of the age of Ciueen Jllizabeth ; the front, which looks towards the noith, exhibiting numerous bay-windows and other rich ornaments of antiquity. The ter- race commands a fine view of the surrounding country. The church, in the Grecian style, was finished in 1765, under the direction of Mr. John Maurice of Lewes, and at the expense of the late bishop of Durham. Like most of the churches of this county it is built of flint, and faced with stone, having a spa- cious portico, over which is a large shield containing the arms, of the see of Durham, impaling those of Trevor. This coat also appears in painted glass, and the large east window is richly adorned with scriptural and other paintings. Here on flat stones removed from the old church are some sepulchral , inscriptions for the Morleys, and on a silver plate is the follow- ing memorial for the founder : — Richard TnEVOR, Bishop of Durham, fourth son of John Lord Trevor, Born Sept. 30. 1707, Died June 9. 1771. In this parish about half a mile north-west of the church is Gli/nde- Bourn, which for about two centuries has been the seat of the family of Hay, which produced in the last generation a poet of some celebrity, well known for the deformity of his body and the elegance of his mind. William Hay, Esq. entered into public life, was a member of Parliament, wrote an ingenious Essa^ on Deformity^* and celebrated in a poem, after the manner of Cooper's • Bodily deformity," says Mr. Hay in this work, " is very rare ; and, therefore, a person so distinguished must naturally think that he has had ill luck in a lottery where there are above a thousand prizes to one blank. Among 568 gentlemen in the House of Coiumous I am the only one that i* so. Thanks lo my worthy constituents, who never objected to mypersoa; and I hope never to give them cause to object to my behaviour. They ar« not like a venal borough, of which there goes a story, that though they never took exceptions to any man's character, who came up to their price ; yet they once rejected the best bidder because he was a Negro." 174 SUSSEX. Cooper's Hill, Mount Caburn, a noble hill in this parish, which commands magnificent views, and affords him an opportunity of introducing the principal features of the county in verses very often extremely beautiful. The mansion is partly an- cient and partly modern ; the lawn, water, and surrounding hills, are very bold and beautiful. In that part of the parish of Lamberhurst which is situated in this rape, and close to the west side of the Bewle a small stream, that here forms the boundary between the counties of Kent and Sussex, stands Scotney Castle, an ancient castellat- ed mansion, which at a very early period belonged to a family of the same name. In the reign of Henry III. it was held by Walter de Scoteni ; and though he was tried and hanged at Winchester, in 1359, for administering poison to Richard Earl of Gloucester and William de Clare, his brother, the estate does not appear to have been forfeited to the crown. It was possess- ed in the reign of Edward III. by the Ashburnhams from whom it passed, under Henry V. to Archbishop Chichely. One of the mandates of that prelate, dated from Scotenye,' April 3, 1418, shews that he occasionally resided at this place. With Florence, his niece, it w&nt to the family of the Darells, in whom it was vested till 1774. The present proprietor Edward Hussey, Esq. has long been a constant resident at Scotney, which he has much ornamented and improved. There are but small remains of the ancient edifice which was castellated as early as the time of Richard II. It had at each angle a round machicolated tower, of which the southern alone remains j the other three having been pulfed down and the stones employed in building the Court Lodge at Lamberhurst, The gate-house with a guard-room over it was a strong build- ing, of which two uprights are still standing: the moat which surrounded the castle also remains. The modern house is a handsome stone building, and was erected by the Darells from a design of Inigo Jones : it is reputed to be partly in Kent and partly in Sussex, the river, which divides the counties, having f formerly SUSSEX. 175 formerly run through the centre of the ground plot on which it stands. At Mayfield, on the eastern border of this rape, was a pa- lace of the archbishops of Canterbury. Eadmer, in the life of St. Dunstan, who died in 988, seems to imply that it was built by that prelate, who, he says, here erected a wooden church. The life of this saint as related by Osbert, Eadmer, and other monkish writers, is filled with accounts of miracles wrought by him, and also of bickerings and conflicts with the devil, in all which Satan met with more than his match. We are told that the archbishop performing in person the ceremony of dedicat- ing Mayfield church, and, according to the accustomed form, going in procession round the building, observed that it was out of the line of sanctity, or, in other words, that it did not stand due east and west; on which he gently touched the edifice with his shoulder, and moved it into its proper be^irings, to the great amazement and edification of all the spectators. From the many deeds and instruments dated at this place^ Mayfield seems to have been a favourite residence of the arch- bishops. In 1332 a provincial council was assembled here, at which a constitution passed relating to holidays; and in 1362 another council was held at Mayfield on the same subject. In this mansion also several of the metropolitans ended their days; as Simon Mepham in 1333; John Stratford in 134S, and Simon Islip, after a residence of a year and a half in 1366.* In * " The circumstances attending the death of Archbishop Til ip^ as exem- plifying the habits of the times, and the daggers incurred from the wretched state of llie country and the deficiencies in every kind of acconimodalion, 'Aill be deemed sufficiently curious to justify their insertion here. As the archbishop, then advanced in years, was travelling from his palace at Otford towards that of Mayfield, on the road between Sevenoaks and Tunbridge, he fell from his horse into a dirty slough. It seems that his Grace was com- pletely bctnired and wetted,i^et did he pursue his journey without changing clothes J and afierwardsroHjM^ asleep, as the recorder of the event statei, / in 176 SUSSEX. In 43 Henry III. the archbishop obtained a charter for a market and fairs to be held at Mayfield ; and a grant of a mar- ket and two fairs was made by Richard II. in his 15th year; but this was probably only a confirmation of the former char- ter. In 1389 the church, and almost the whole village, were destroyed by fire. The manor and mansion, to which was formerly attached a park, were surrendered by Archbishop Cranmer to Henry VIU. who in 1545 granted the estate to Sir Henry North. By him it was soon afterwards alienated to Sir John Gresham, and descended to his next brother Sir Thomas, who made it his principal seat. Whilst in his occupation it was honoured with the presence of Queen Elizabeth ; and in memory of this visit one apartment was called the queen's chamber. We are- told in the Biographia Britannica, on the authority of Sir Tho- mas's manuscript journal, that the value of the furniture was estimated at 75531.; but whether this was the value of the goods in the queen's chamber only, or of those in the whole mansion, is not clearly expressed. By the will of Sir Thomas this manor and estate passed to Sir Henry Nevill, Knt. whose son sold it for 63871. to Thomas May, Esq. of Burwash. In 16 James I. it passed into the family of Baker, with which it re- mained till a late alienation transferred it into that of the Rev. Mr. Kerby, vicar of Mayfield. This palace, whose ancient name is lost in the less noble ap- pellation of Mayfield Place, was in a tolerably perfect state in the early part of last century, when the roof and floors were taken down, and much of the stone and other materials was employed in erecting several houses in the neighbourhood. The lofty stone arches, however, were left standing, because they were judged inadequate in value to the trouble and expense of throwing them down. The east end has been long converted into a farm-house, where are exhibited St. Bunstan's in ijuadam lapidea camera, he was io consequence seized with a stroke of the pab^ which occasioned his deatli." — (Amsinck's Tunbridge Wells, p. 68.) |J> SUSSEX. 177 Dunstau's anvil and hammer, and the identical tongs with which he so courag^j^sly seized the crafty temj^ter, when accosting him in the form of a beautiful female; but as the rustic cicerone at the same time exhibits parts of Dunstan^s armour, and the le- gend no where intimates that the saint was a warrior, this cir- cumstance is certainly calculated to excite some doubt respecting the genuineness of the whole. H?re is a v^y large room, which still, goes by the name of the Queen's Chamber. On the stone mantle-piece of another apartment, called the kitchen-chamber, is engraved the date 1371 ; and on the dexter- side of the door of the anti-room adjoining is the coat of the see of Canterbury. The arches of the great hall yet remain. Its dimensions within are 68 feet by 38. In each of the siy the rape of Pevensey, on the north by Kent, and on the south and east by the British channel. It is subdivided into thirteen hundreds, and forty-five parishes ; and comprehends four maiket towns : Battle, Hastings, Rye, and JVinchehea. Battle, anciently a small village, called Epiton, received its modern ap- pellation from the memorable conflict between William, Duke of Normandy, and Harold, King of England, which transferred the 2 12 crown k 180 SUSSEX. crown of the latter to a new race of sovereigns, and which is commonly termed the hattle of Hastings, though fought upon the spot where tliis town now stands. The circumstancis which led to this important event are too well known to need repeating here : suffice it therefore to observe, that on the 14th of October, 1066, after an engagement, whicb lasted from morning till sun-set, and which seemed worthy, by the valour displayed by both armies and both commanders, to decide the fiite of a mighty kingdom, William obtained a com- plete victory with tiic loss of near 15,000 men. The slaughter of tlie English was far more consi(^erable : their slain, if we may believe the accounts of some of our historians, amounted to 60,000; but it seems more probable that this may have been the total number of those who fell on this occasion. In compliance with a vow which he had made before the en- gagement, the Conqueror began, the year following, to build an abbey, in order that constant thanks and praise might be given to God for this victory, and continual prayers offered up for the souls of the slain. That part of the field where the fight had raged most fiercely was chosen for the site of the edifice, the high-altar standing on the very spot where, according to some, the dead body of Harold was found ; or, as others say, where his standard was taken up. This abbey the king dedicated to St. Martin, and filled with Benedictine monks from that of Mar- monticr in Normandy. He conferred on it various prerogatives and immunities, similar to those enjoyed by the monks of Christ Church, Canterbury ; such as the exclusive right of inquest in all murders committed within their lands ; treasure-trove, or the property of all treasure discovered on their estates ; free-warren and exemption for themselves and tenants from all episcopal and other ecclesiastical jurisdiction ; the right of sanctuary for their ehurch in cases of homicide, besides many other privileges. He also granted to the abbot the royal power of pardoning any con- demned thief whom he should pass or meet going to execution. The founder provided amply for the subsistence of the commu- nity SUSSEX. 181 nity, to which lie gave all the land for a league round their house, and various manors and cliurclies in different counties. He made an offering to the conventual church of his sword and the royal robe worn by him at his coronation, which the monks carefully preserved, and exhibited as great curiosities. They possessed likewise a roll of all the Norman gentry who came into England with the Conqueror, on which they set a high value; though, according to some of our antiquaries, its authority is little more to be depended upon than some of the pedigrees of modern heralds. William would have augmented his bounty to a suffi- ciency for the maintenance of 140 monks, had not death pre- vented the execution of his design. This house, to which the abbey of Brecknock in Wales was made a cell, was governed, from its foundation to its suppression, by thirty-one abbots, who enjoyed the distinction of the mitre. At the dissolution of religious houses it was surrendered 30 Henry VIII. when its annual revenues were valued, according to Dugdalc, at 8801. ; but, as Speed says, to 9871. A pension of 661. 13s. 4d. was settled on the abbot, and inferior sums on the other officers and monks,, to the number of sixteen or seventeen persons. The site of the monastery was granted to one Gilmer, who pulled down great part of the buildings in order to dispos.e of the materials, and afterwards disposed of the estate to Sir An- thony Browne. His descendants began to convert the remains of. the edifice into a mansion, which continued unfinished, till the property was sold by Anthony, Viscount Montague, to Sir Thomas Webster, who made it his residence. The present owner is Sir Godfrey Webster, Bart, who, in 1812, was elected one of the knights of the shire for this county. Battle Abbey stands on a gentle rise, with a beautiful concave sweep before it of meadows and woods^ confined by woody hills, which form a valley winding towards Hastings, where it meets the sea. Its ruins bear ample testimony to its ancient magnifi- cence ; and their circuit, computed at not less than a mile, proves the extensive scale of the establishment. Their style denioii- 913 «fciates 182 SUSSEX. strates that tlie edifice, or at least the greater part of it, was rebuilt in the time of the later Henries^ when architecture had laid aside the Saxon heaviness, and assumed a lighter and more embellished form. The remains occupy nearly three sides of a large square ; the fourth having probably been taken down to admit a view of the country, when the middle side was converted into a modern habitation. I'he grand entrance, a large square building, embattled at the top with a handscrne octagon tower at each corner, faces the town, ar.d is a very rich and elegant piece of Gothic architecture : the front is adorned with a series of arches and neat pilasters. This gate-way, which, with the ad- joining buildings, is afnrmed by Buck to have been part of the original structure, cannot, as Bishop Lyttelton observes, be older ^ than the time of Henry VI.* Here were formerly held the ses- sions, and other meetings for transacting the business of the town; but so little attention was paid to keep the building in repair, that the roof has fallen in, and rendered it unfit for the purpose. The side of the square opposite to the gate-way cou-s- fiists only of two long, low, parallel walls, which formerly sup- ported a row of chambers, and terminated in two elegant turrets, once forming part of another gate. The remaining side of the quadrangle, which is converted into a dwelling-house, has suf- fered the greatest depreciations. Here stood the abbey-church, though the ground-plot cannot now be traced. It was doubtless k very beautiful piece of architecture. The only vestiges of it are nine elegant arches, which seemed to have belonged to the inside of a cloister : they are now filled up, and appear on the outside of the house. Here, as Gilpin feelingly observes, " all is transposition ; and the imagination is left to conceive the beau- tiful effect which a Gothic tower, and the remains of broken aisles and cloisters, would have had in the room of a patched and awk- ward habitation. Contiguous to the great church are the ruins of * Church l^^^otes, in manuscript, in the Library of the Antiquarian So- ciety. t Observations on tlie Coasts of Hampshire, Sussex, and Kent, p. q3. SUSSEX. of a hall, probably the refectory of the monks, which affords no- thing intevesting ; but there is another biiikiiiig of the kind, a little detached from the abbey, which is einiuciitly beautiful, though its dimensions, IGG feet by 3>, are not quite propor- tioned. It has twelve windows on one side, and six on the other. The original purpose of this superb roojn, now used as a barn, seems to have been to entertain the whole country when the monks gave a general feast to their tenants. Under the hall, which is raised by a flight of steps, are crypts of free-stone, divided by elegant pillars and springing arches, which form a curious vaulted building, now converted into a stable. This is evidently the most ancient part of the present remains of tlie abbey : the whole is in a good style of Gotliic, probably of the age of King Stephen, or Henry II. with the exception of a pon- derous roof, which is a modern acquisition. The town of Battle certainly owed its origni to the foundation of the abbey. It consists of one street, running from north-west to south-east; and, in 1801, comprehended, with the parish, 291 houses, and 2040 inhabitants. Henry I. granted to the town a charter for a weekly market, which continued to be held on Sun- day till the beginning of the seventeenth century, when it was removed to Thursday. In the neighbourhood of the place are several mills for the manufacture of gunpowder, belonging to Mr. Harvey. Their produce has long beeji celebrated for its excelltnce, and is surpassed by that made at Dartford alone. Besides the abbey, the only object in this town worthy of no- lice is the church, the incumbent of which is styled dean of Bat- tle. It is a very handsoine edifice, consisting of a nave, chancel, two aisles, and a substantial tower. The windows of the north aisle are adorned with numerous figures, portraits, and devices, in painted glass. In a recess in the north wall of the chancel is a noble altar- monument to the memory of Sir Anthony Browne, standard- bearer to Henry VI 11. which is a very early specimen of that mixed style of architecture which succeeded, and, by degrees, 1 4 totally 184 SUSSEX. totally supplanted the Gothic. He is represented lying on his back, in armour, and adorned with the insignia of the garter. Beside him is the effigies of his lady, in the habit of the times. This church also contains several curious brasses, and other sepulchral memorials of considerable antiquity. Hastings, ^ the capital of this rape, to which it gives name, is situated in a valley that forms a beautiful amphitheatre, sloping to the sea on the south, and bounded on the east and west by lofty hills. It principally consists of two parallel streets, High-Street, and Fish-Street, running north and south, and separated by a small Stream called the Bourne, which discharges itself into the sea. The town is divided into three parishes, which, in 1801, contained 542 houses, and 2982 inhabitants. With the subsequent acces- sion to the population it must now be more than double the amount in 1 730, when it was stated by Dr. Frewen at ] 636 per- sons: a circumstance which affords no unfair standard for esti- i»ating the increased prosperity of the place since that period. It has two weekly markets on Wednesday and Saturday ^ and fairs on 26th July, and 23d and 24th October. Respecting the origin of Hastings nothing is known with cer- tainty. According to the author of the Saxon Chronicle, it de- rived its name from a Danish pirate, who erected a small fortress here, as he was accustomed to do wherever he landed for plun- der. In the reign of Athelstan, A. D. 924, it was a town of sufficient importance to have a mint. It held the first place among the original cinque-ports; and, with its dependent members, was bound, on receiving a legal summons or notice of forty days, to provide twentyrone ships properly equipped for war, each manned with twenty-one able seamen. In consequence of this obliga- tion Hastings, in common with the other cinque-ports, pos- sessed, and still enjoys, certain privileges and immunities, as related in a former part of this work.* Hastings • For a general accouot of the Cinque-ports, see Beauties, Vol. VIH, p. 1010—1016. SUSSEX. 185 Hastini^s received chailcis from Edward the Confessor, Wil- liam the Conqueror, and several suhscqnent monarchs down to James II. but it was that of his predecessor which f;ave the cor- poration its present form. It is composed of a mayor, jurats, and freemen, is exempted from toll, and is empowered to hold courts of judicature in capital cases. Hastings has, since 43 Edward III. returned two members to Parliament, elected by the mayor, jurats, and freemen, resident, and not receiving alms, who are about forty in number. On a lofty rocky clift' westward of the town are some small remains of a very ancient Castle. At wliat period, or by whom it was erected, we find no account in any of those writers who have treated of our topographical antiquities. From its situa- tion, which must have been peculiarly favourable to tlie ancient mode of fortification, it is more than probable that a fortress existed here long before that which tiie Danish rovers, under Hastings their leader, are said to have constructed. This con- jecture receives some support from a pa&sage in the Chronicles of Dover monastery, printed in Leland's Collectanea, which says, that when Arviragus threw off the Roman yoke, it is likely he fortified those places which were most convenient for their invasion, namely, Richlmrough, Walmore, Dover, and Hastings." Bishop Lyttelton, however, is inclined to think that lierc was originally a Roman fortress built as a defence against the inva- sion of the pirates. He farther observes, that though William tlie Conqueror, as we are told, ran up a fort at Hastings just before his engagement with Harold ; this could not have been his work, as it would have required more time and Libour than his circumsta,nces could then; have allowed ; and concludes that William might probably have repaired the old Roman castle, and have placed a garrison in it. In the history of Canterbury, written by Eadmer, it appears that in the year 1090, almost all the bishops and nobles of England were assembled by royal au- thority at the castle of Hastings, to pay personal homage to King William H. before his departure for Normandy. Little i 186 SUSSEX. Little more concerning tliis castla occurs in history, than that within it was a free royal chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, in which were a dean and several secular canons or prebendaries. It is supposed to have been founded by one of the earls of Eu while proprietor of the castie. Prynne, in his History of Papal Usur- pations, records various circumstances relative to a dispute be- tween King Edward III. and tlie Bishop of Chiciiester and Arch- bishop of Canterbury, concerning the right claimed by them of visiting this chapel; which, however, in the reigji of Henry VI. was placed under the jurisdiction of the former of those prelates. Grose has very unaccountably confounded this collegiate chapel with the priory of »iie Holy Trinity. At the dissolution, 26 Henry VIIT. the deanery was valued at twenty pounds per annum, and the seven prebends at 411. 13s. 5d. ; and tiie whole was granted by the same king, in his 38th year, to Sir Anthony Browne. What remains of the castle approaches nearest in shape to two sides of an oblique spherical triangle, having the points rounded off. The base, or south side next to the sea, completing the triangle, is formed by a perpendicular craggy cliff about 400 feet in leng^, upon which are no vestiges of a wall or other fortift- cati^ The east side is made by a plain wall measuring near 300 feet, without tower or defence of any kind. The adjoining side, which faces the north-west, is about 400 feet long ; conse- quently the area included is about an acre and one-fifth. The walls, no where entire, are about eight feet thick. The gate- way, now demolished, was on the north side near the northern- most angle. Nor far from it, to the west, are the remains of a small tower, enclosing a circular flight of stairs; and, slill far- ther westward, a sally-port and ruins of another tower. On the east side, at the distance of about 100 feet, ran a ditch 100 feet in breadth; but both the ditch, and the interval between it and - the wall, seem to have narrowed by degrees as they approached the gate, and to have terminated under it. On tlic north-west side was another ditch of the like breadth, commencing at the 7 cliff SUSSEX. 18T cliff opposite to the westernmost angle, anil bearing away almost (Ine north, leaving- a level intermediate space, wliich, opposite to the sally-port, was 180 feet in breath. This castle, togetlier with the rape of Hastings, which always accompaHied it, was given, with many other large estates, by William theConqneror to Robert Earl of En, a conlidential servant and adviser of that mon irch. By one of his descendants it was forfeited to the Crown during the reign of Henry HI. who ex- changed it with John de Dreux, Eail of Richmond, for certain lands belonging to the honour of Richmond. In his posterity it continued for some time ; but, in 1299 was again in the Crown, During the succeeding century it was for a sliort period in the possession of different persons, till Henry IV. in 1412, granted it to Sir John Pel ham, by whom it was conveyed to Tiiomas lloo, -afterwards created Lord Hoo and Hastings. His family enjoyed it till 1461, when the estate was alienated to Sir William ^ Hastings, on whom the title of Lord Hastings was conferred by Edward IV. For his tidelity to the children of his sovereign thai spirited nobleman was sacriflced by tlueir ambitious uncle, who seized his possessions ; but this honour was restored to his son by Henry VII. and confirmed to him by his successor. By one of his descendants, who were invested with the earldom of Hun- tingdon, the castle of Hastings was sold, together with the ma- nors of Crowhurst, Burwash, and Berelham, for the sum of 25001. and a reserved rent of 131. 6s. 8d. to Thomas Pelham, Esq. of Laughton, to whom the perpetuity was confirmed by James I. in 1605. In his family it has ever since remaiiicd, and at present belongs to the Earl of Chichester, to whose father it was be- queathed by the first Duke of Newcastle. A little to the west of the cliff on which the castle stands, was ^ Priory of B?ack Canons, fojinded in the reign of Richard I. by Sir Walter Bricet, and dedicated to tiie Holy Trinity. At the Dis- solution the annual revenues of this priory were estimated, by Dugdale's account, at '511. but according to Speed at 571. Some fragments of walls are the only remains of this monastic edifice, 188 SUSSEX. edifice, on tlie site of wliieh stands a farm-house distinguished by the name of the Priory. Close to tiie farm-yard is a jiicce of water at the bottom of which, when drained off some years ago, was discovered a large hole near 30 feet in depth, with the re- mains of a skiice, deep gates, and timbers of prodigious dimen- sions : probably the relics of worlds constructed by the monks to protect their habitation from the ravages of the sea. About the year 1377, Hastings was burned by the French, and, Avhen rebuilt, was divided into three parishes, St. Clement's, All Saints, and St. Mary's in the Castle. The two former only have churches, which, within the last half century, were united into one rectory. They are both very ancient fabrics, but there is nothing to ascertain the exact date of their erection. The town had formerly two oiher churches, St. Michael's and St. George's. The latter stood in a small field on the eastern hill, ; and the last inconsiderable remains of it were levelled many years ago. v» The Town-Hall, or Court-house, under which is the Markets place, was erected in 1700. In the hall is a shield bearing the arms of France, brought from Quebec, and presented to the corpo- ration by the late General Murray. This town once enjoyed the advantage of a good harbour, form- ed by a wooden pier, which projected in a south-east direction below the site of the present fort. About the beginning of Queen Elizabeth's reign this pier was destroyed by a violent tempest. Large pieces of timber of which it was composed, and vast stones which formed the foundation, are still to be seen at low water. The only method of securing vessels from the fury of the waves is now to draw them up on the beach which is here called the Stacle. At the west end of it is a fort mounting eleven twelve- pounders, that serves to defend the town not only against an enemy, but also against the encroachments of the sea in bolster, ous weatlier, which, nevertheless, sometimes occasion consider^* able damage. Tlie trade pf Hastings is inconsiderable compared with that which SUSSEX. 1«9 which it fotmerly possessed. It now depends chiefly on its fisheries, which have also much declined, and a little coasting- trade. Still, however, coi^siderable quantities of herrings, metcka- rel, and trawl-fisli are caught here, and help to supply tlie mar- kets of the metropolis. Boat-building also occupies a consider- able number of hands, and the people of Hastings have gained as high reputation for their skill in the construction of their vessels as for their courage and dexterity in the management of them. In addition to these branches of industry a lime company esta- blished here affords some employment. Nine sloops of about 40 tons burthen are regularly fengaged from April till November in bringing the chalk from the Holywell pits at Beachy Head. The kilns, which are situated at some distance westward of the town, produce upon an average about 120,000 bushels of lime in a year. Another source of prosperity, which Hastings shares with many other places situated on the coast, is derived from the modern ^ fashion of sea-batliing, for which purpose it has of late years b^n the resort of many persons of rank and wealth. For their accom- modation are kept about 20 bathing-machines, which stand to the west of the town, close to a walk recently formed and styled the Parade. At low water a fine level sand extends to a great distance, and the shore has such a gentle ascent that the advan- tage of immersion may be enjoyed at any time of the tide. Con- venient warm baths were also some years since erected by a sub- scription of the inhabitants. During the season assemblies are held weekly at the Swan Inn, where is a suitable room with a gallery for music. From the many agreeable walks and rides, JVnd the variety of interesting objects with which the vicinity of Hastings abounds, together with the grandeur of its sea views, this place is certainly entitled to the favourable notice of those whom health or pleasure annually allures to the coast. Rye ' stands upon an eminence on the west side of the moutli of the river Rother, at the eastern extreRiity of this county. According to StJSStX, f to the enumeration of 1801, it contained with the parish 38^ houses, and 2187 inhabitants. It has two weeklv markets on Wednesday and Friday, and fairs on Whit-Monday and the iOth of August. This town is a member of the Cinque-ports subordinate to Hast- ings to whose quota it coiitributed five ships. Tiie corporation, consisting of a mayor, jurats, and freemen, is held by prescription. Rye has sent two barons to Parliament since 42 Henry III. The right of election is vested in tlie mayor, jurats, and freemen, the former being tiie returning officer. Rye must be a town of great antiquity if, as it seems to be agreed, we ought here to look for the Partus Novus of Pto- lemy. No traces, however, exist to indicate the occupation of this place by the Romans, Its name has been supposed to be derived from tiie Ripa of those conquerors, but Jeake, in a note to his Charters of the Cinque-ports, deduces it from the British word Rhi/j " signifying a ford, or as some say, a bay ; in refer- ence to tlie former, importing the place where the rivers Rother and Ree were yet fordable ; and to the latter, the situation of the town in the bottom or middle of the bay made by the cliffs at Beachy, and those at Folkstone, whence the sea over Rye, and sear the shore is still called Rye Bay.'^ The earliest mention that we find made of it under the present name is on occasion of a descent of the Danes, who arriving at the latter end of the year 893 in a fleet of 250 sail, landed near Rye, and seized the castle of Apul- dore in Kt-nt. Edward the Confessor gave this place and Win- chelsea to the abbot and monks of Fescamp in Normandy, but Henry III, for the better defence of the realm resumed possession of both these towns, giving in exchange for theoi the manors Cheltenham and Selover in Gloucestershire, and other lands in the county of Lincoln.* In the 12th century, William de Ipres, ^who was created Earl of Kent by King Stephen, and died in 1162, erected here the tower which still bears his name, and other forlifications for the defence of the town. In 1287, the same tempest * Lambert's Pcrarab. p. 458. SUSSEX. 191 tcHvpest winch overwhelmed OUl Winchelsea, pioduced a cousi- deiablc change in the situation of its neiglihoiir. Rye; for it en- tirely altered the course of the river Rotlier, which had before discharged itself into the sea at Romney, but being* choked up there, opened a new passage for its current close to this town. Dujing the reign of Edward III. Rye was encompassed with ■walls, hilt under his successor in 1377, it was taken, as Stow in- timates, tlirough the cowardice of the inhabitants by the French, who lauded liere with five vessels, and, after plundering the place set it on fire, and " within five hours brought it wholly unto ashes, with the church that then was there of a wonderful beauty, conveying away four of the richest of that towne prisoners and slaying 66, left not above ej^ght in tlie towne : 42 hogsheads of wine tliey carried thence to their ships, with the rest of their booty, and left the towne desolate/' * Rye was a second time burned by the French in the reign of Henry VI. when all the an- cient records and charters of the town are supposed to have pe- rished, as, with the exception of some fragments nothing of an earlier date than the 27 th of that king is to be found. Owing to ike ravages of the enemy, the fi<;kleness of the ocean, and the proximity of Winchelsea, which then engrossed the whole com- merce of this coast. Rye continued for some time in a state of decdy ; till in the l6th century, as Camden informs us, its har- bour was restored by the violence of an extraordinary tempest, and still farther improved by another. Fram the same writer it appears'to have then been the usual place of embarkation for Nor- aaandy. Henry VII. visited the town in the .3d year of his reign, as did Queen Elizabeth in 1573. One hundred years later Charles II. here reviewed the English and Freiich fleets lying in the bay, within sight of the place. As Winchelsea declined. Rye again rose into consequence, and its haii),our,*iI)ough not the BioHt commodious, has often afforded seasonable relief to vessels heating about the coast. Here two of our kings were obliged to »eok shelter, on their return from Hanover, iiaving been both dri- ven » Annals, p. 279. 192 SUSSEX, veri by storms into Rye, George I. in January 1725, and liis suc- cessor ill December 1736. Ipres Castle, so named after its founder, is a strong square pile, with a round tower at each corner. It was originally erect- ed for the defence of the town, but in the 14th century was pur- chased by the corporation, and from the use to which it was ap- plied, it acquired the appellation of the Court-House. On the orection of the town-hall, it was converted into a prison, and such it still continues. Beneath this castle is a battery of 18 guns. Part of the walls with which the town was once fortified still remains; some of the gates likewise are yet standing, but very niinous. There is a handsome Gothic arch in the north or land- gate which is guarded on eacli side by a round tower. Pennant must be mistaken in his assertion that here was only one religious house, that of the Augustines. Jeake who resided in this town and wrote in the early part of last century, says : " Besides the chapel of St. Clare (now used for a poWder-house) and the chauntry of St. Nicholas, the chancel whereof is still kept for an ammunition-house, whereto it was converted anno 17 Eiiz. it had a monastery of the friars hermits of St. Augustin, the chapel whereof is yet standing, erected anno 16 Henry VIII. and dissolved by him shortly after witii the first dissolution in the 27th year of his reign."* The chapel of this house, still known by the name of tlie Friary, and distinguished by Gothic windows with neat tracery, is now used as a store-house. The ancient Church stood near Ipres-Tower, on the spot still called the Old Church-yurd. The present structure, dedicated to St. Mary, is accounted one of the largest parish churches in the kingdom. It is built of stone in the form of a cross, and long lay in a ruinous condition till repaired and beautified about the beginning of last century. It contains nothing worthy of particular notice. In the Lower Street is the Free Gratmnar School, a brick edi- fice erected in 1636 by Thomas Peacock, one of the jurats, and by bis will endowed v^ith the sum of 3ol. per annum, payable out of * Jeake's Charters of the Cinque-p«rts, SUSSEX. 193 of a farm in tliis parish. Besides this institution here is also a good Free School for the instruction of poor children. In the principal street, and nearly in the centre of the town is a hand- some Market-place, together with a Town-hall. Dissenters of different persuasions are numerous here ; the Baptists have a neat meeting-house, and the Methodists have recently erected a handsome chapel. The old harhour having? become nearly choked up with sand, partly on that account and partly in order to gain a considerable quantity of marsh land, it was determined to form a new one by cutting a large canal in a more direct line to the sea. This plan was accomplished some years ago, and vessels of about two hun- dred tons now come up to the quay, on the north side of the town, a mile and a half from the entrance. A great improvement was effected by a dam of a singular construction, invented by the late Rev. Daniel Pape, and thrown across the old channel. For this contrivance, long deemed impracticable on account of the heavy sea and powerful influx and reflux of the tide, the So- ciety of Arts conferred their gold medal in mechanics for 1804. The trade of Rye consists chiefly in its herring- and mackarel fisheries, and in trawling for flat fisli, which are sent to London. It likewise exports some corn and malt. Seven sloops belonging to this town are pretty constantly engaged in the conveyance of chalk from the cliffs near East Bourne, for the purpose of being burned into lime. WiNCHELSEA, which may be justly termed the shadow of a shade, is a borough and market-town, about three miles from Rye and eight from Hastings, comprehending with the parish 105 houses, and 627 in- habitants. Its insignificant weekly market is held on Saturday, and it has a fair on the 14th of May. As a member of the Cinque-ports Winchelsea received charters Vol. XIV. 2K of 194 SUSSEX. of incorporation from several of our monarcFis. Tlie corporate body is entitled to consist of a niayar and twelve jurats, but is seldom composed of more than four or five persons. The town also enjoys the privilege of sending two representatives to> Parliament; tbe right of election is vested in the corporation and freemen,, about forty in number, and tbe mayor is tbe re- turning officer. Tbat Wincbelsea was a place of great antiquity cannot be doubted, tbougb no records respecting its origin have found their ■way to our time. History, indeed, scarcely makes mention of the ancient town, so tbat little more is known concerning it tbar* that it was a powerful member of the Cinque-ports, which con- tributed ten vessels to the number furnished by them for the public service. From a circumstance recorded by Holinshed, it appears tiiat during the turbulent reign of Henry III. its ships, like those of the other ports, practised in their cruizes the most savage barbarities. While the ambitious Montfort, Earl of Lei- cester, exercised the supreme power which he had wrested from the hands of his sovereign, they set no bounds to their piracies, and threw averboard the crews of every ship they met with, whe- ther English or foreign. Leicester, who shared the booty, of course winked at their enormities ; which, however, in 1266, drew down upon them deserved chastisement from Prince Ed- ward. He attacked Wincbelsea, took it by storm, and put to the sword the principal persons concerned in such inhuman practices, but spared the rest, and granted to the iuliabitants in general far better terms than they expected. The date of this transaction proves that the destruction of the old town could not have happened so early as the period to which that catastrophe is ge- nerally assigned. Grose quotes an old book without a title, which describes it in these words; In the month of October in the year 1250, the moon being in its prime, the sea passed over her accustomed bounds, flowing twice without ebb, and made so horrible a noise, that it was heard a great way within land, not without the asto- nishment SUSSEX. 195 nishment of the oldest men that heard it. Besides this, at dark night, the sea seemed to be a light fire and to burn, and the waves to beat with one another, insomuch that it was past the mariner's skill to save their ships ; and to omit others at a place called Hucheburn (probably Hither or East Bourne,) three noble and famous ships were swallowed up by the violent rising of the waves, and were drowned. And at Winchelsea a certain haven eastward, besides cottages for salt, fishermen's huts, bridges and mills, above 300 houses by the violent rising of the waves were drowned." The same writer also gives a passage from a book deposited with the records of Rye to this effect : Be it remem- bered that in the year of our Lord 1387, in the even of St. Agath, the Virgin, was the town of Winchelsea drowned, and all the lands between Climesden and Hithe." He adds, that t!iis tremendous event, though at last sudden, appears to have given warning of its approach, for there is no account of the loss of the lives of any of the inhabitants, or much of their moveable property. The account preserved by Iceland in his Itinerary seems to confirm the correctness of the latter date, and to fix the period of the rapid but yet gradual overthrow of the town between the years 1280 and 1287. He tells us that *' in the space of six or seven years the old town of Winchelsea fell to a sore and manifest ruin by reason of the olde rages of the sea and that during this time the inhabitants foreseeing the probability of its total de- struction, petitioned Edward I. for ground in order to found an- other town. The king accordingly sent John de Kirkby, bishop of Ely, who selected for the purpose a spot then occupied only by rabbits, and belonging to Sir John Tregose, one Maurice, and the Abbey of Battle. The king having agreed with the proprie- tors, alloted 150 acres for the new town, which he surrounded with walls, and the inhabitants of Old Winchelsea," continues Leland, took by little and little, and builded it." From this ex- pression we may reasonably conclude, that before the sea had ab- sorbed their former habitations, they had for the most part trans- K 2 fwred SCSS£X. feri'ed their residence to their new settlement. The Iat(er, enf- couraged by the favour of the sovereign, who continued to it all the privileges enjoyed bj the old town, increased in buildings and population; but in less than twenty years was twice pillaged^ first by the French, and again by the Spaniards, who landed near Farleigh Head. In 1358 the French once more attacked and partly destroyed the town, but were foiled in another at* tempt, which, after having burned Rye they made upon it in 1377. The abbot of Battle, Hamo de Offington, as it is suppose^ ('for the name of the prelate who then presided over that house cannot be determined with accuracy) hearing of the destruction of Rye, armed his dependents, and threw himself into Winchel- sea, which he successfully defended against the enemy. From the rapid succession of the calamitous events which fol- lowed the foundation of the new town, it may be questioned whe- ther it was ever completely finished; but the many spaci»ms crypts and vaults which have been discovered, aflford sufi[icient evidence that it was numerously, if not fully, inhabited. The new town fell to decay from a cause the very reverse of that which had occasioned the ruin of the old one : the sea deserted its neighbourhood, and left in its place a dreary marsh. In 1573, however, Winchelsea retained so much of its opulence and im- portance, that Queen Elizabeth, by whom it was visited in that year, struck with the general appearance of the town, the splen- did scarlet robes of the mayor and jurats, and the numerous gen- try who inhabited the place, complimented it with the title of Little London, Towards the end of her reign the calamity of a retiring sea began in earnest to be felt. The channel which led to the harbour was first choked, and by insensible degrees the whole coast was deserted. The town, abandoned of course by the merchant and trader, declined apace. Its houses and churches fell to ruin and desolation spread over the whole compass of the hill on which it stood : so that a town once covering a surface two miles in circumference is now shrunk into a few houses in a cor- ner of its ancient site. The SUSSEX. The hill on which is situated all that remains of Winchelsea, «s about a mile and a half from the sea. It was anciently called Higiiam or Petit liiam, and formed pai't of the parish of Ickles- hara. This hill, about two miles in circuit, was once nearly sur- rounded by the sea as it is now by marshes, above which it is considerably elevated. It was originally divided into squares €ach containing about two acres and a quarter : their €xact num- ber is not known, but so many as 39 may still be traced. The liouses with gardens behind them formed the outline, and the ^streets which were spacious, every where intersect each other at right angles. In the middle of the town was a large square now on most sides open to the country. In the centre of it stands the Church, de- dicated to St. Thomas, which from its remains appears to have been a beautiful edifice, originally built in the form of a cross. The lofty and spacious chancel, used by the parishioners for di- vine worship, and three aisles, are all that is now left entire. The north and south transept form a fine ruin, but there are no traces of any other part. The exterior is covered with a venera- ble coat of thick ivy, which produces a solemn and picturesque effect. Within are yet left three of the lofty arches which sup- ported the tower, springing from clustered columns. The south aisle contains two monuments with efiigies of knights templars, who, if they were actually interred here, must have been among the latest of their celebrated order. One of these appears from the arms, to have belonged to the family of Oxenbridge, formerly of great consequence in this part of the county. In the north aisle are two monuments of monks, as appears from their habits, and in the vestry another figure of a knight templar in excellent preservation. At the souUi-west corner of the church-yard, de- tached from any building stood some years since a solid square tower, where hung a peal of bells. It is exhibited in Grose's view, but being thought dangerous, has been taken down. Two other parish churches, dedicated to St. Giles and St. Leo- nard, were standing within the memory of persons living in 1575 2 K 3 when 198 SUSSEX. when Lambard wrote. The former occupied a square on the west side of the hill, but though the site is known, the very ruins have been so completely removed tliat not a vestige of the edifice remains. St. Leonard's was situated on a bold promontory, ex- tending irregularly towards the west and south-west. The east side of the tower alone has withstood the ravages of time ; the other parts having long been levelled with the ground. In this church was placed a picture or image of the saint, as the patron of the town, witli a vane in his hand. As this vane was move- able at will, persons desiring a fair wind to bring home their re- latives or friends were allowed to set it as they pleased, and sucli was the superstitious credulity of the times, that from the per- formance of this ceremony they confidently anticipated the fulfilment of their wishes. * The parish of St. Leonard, which is very small, is included in the liberty of Hast- ings. Winchelsea had also two religious houses, the one of Domini- cans, or Black Friars, said to have been founded by Edward IL the other of Grey Friars, by William de Buckingham, who dedi- cated it to the Virgin Mary. Of the latter considerable remains yet exist under the appellation of the Friary. The choir of the church exhibits a magnificent evidence of its ancient grandeur, ft has at the end three Gothic windows, and four others, narrow, but lofty on each side. An arch at the west part about 26 feet wide is of uncommon height and beauty ; it stands among trees in the garden of a private house, and forms an object singularly striking and noble. We are told by Grose, tliat according to tradition Winchelsea contained fourteen or fifteen chapels, which, as he surmises, might have belonged to as many religious houses. Were there any foundation for this tradition, we can scarcely suppose that Le- land would have mentioned only the " two houses of friars, grey and black,'^ and have been totally silent respecting all the rest. The • Mag. Britan. V. 503. SUSSEX. 199 The Court-House and Gaol are both of great antiquity, as the Saxoa or round arches to the doors evince. The three gates which defended the approaches to the town ■called New Gate, Strand Gate, and Land Gate, are yet standing, though in a very ruinous condition : and here and there a frag- «ient of tlie walls with an exterior foss may still be discovered. The north-east, or Land Gate, leading to Rye, has a round tower on each side. The arch of the south, or Strand Gate, formed of vast rude stones, is almost flat. Respecting the nature of the traffic to which Winchelsea owed its ancient prosperity, we are left entirely to conjecture. From its relative situation to Boulogne, and the spacious vaults fre- quently discovered here, it is not improbable, as Grose observes, that this place was the mart for French wines imported into Eng- land before tlie trade to Portugal was established. Near Camber Point, which terminates a marshy peninsula, about two miles north-east of the town, and half a mile from the sea, stands JVin<:helsea or Camber Castle, It was built by Henry VIIL during his rage for universal forliticalion in 1539 and 1540, at an expence of 23,0001. ; and is conjectured by some to have been erected on the site or with the materials of a more ancient fabric. The main walls, yet tolerably entire, are many of them of brick cased with square stone. It resembles in its plan, the other block-houses built about the same period. A large circular tower, serving for the keep, is surrounded by seve- ral smaller towers of the same figure, connected by short cur- tains. Round about the keep was a low battery with chinks for firing through : these are now below the surface of the earth, which proves how prodigiously it must have been raised here. The causes that led to the erection of this fortress having ceased, and its preservation having been deemed neither necessary nor dcfsirable, it was long since dismantled and suffered to fall io ruin. In 1628, Elizabeth, daughter and heir of Sir Thomas Heneag^, And widow of Sir Moyle Finch, was created countess of Win- 2 K 4 chelsea» 200 \ SUSSEX. chelsea, and on her descendants, who have also inherited the earldom of Nottingham. Winchelsea still continues to confer the title of earl. This place gave birth in the 13th century to Robert de Winchelsea, who in 1292 was elevated to the archiepiscopal see of Canterbury, and whose charity is said to have been so ex- tensive, that he fed four thousand persons when corn was cheap and five thousand when it was dear.* AsHBURNHAM has given name to a family which Fuller terms of stupendous antiquity. The, Domesday Survey makes mention of Piers, Lord of Esburnh^m, in the reign of Edward the Con- fessor, and at the time of the Norman invasion Bertram de Es- burnham was sheriff of Surrey, Sussex, and Kent. By some of our historians he is said to have been slain in the fight at Battle, and by others to have been beheaded by the Conqueror for refus- ing to surrender Dover Castle, of which Harold had appointed him governor. William, though he considered this family as hostile to his interest, does not appear to have confiscated their estate here, upon which they continued to reside in privacy dur- ing several subsequent reigns. The first that we find in any ci- vil office is John Ashburnham, who represented this county in Parliament, and was sheriff of Surrey and Sussex under Rich- ard II. and Henry lY. The same office was held by several of his descendants. In the 17th century, William Ashburnham was distinguished by his loyalty and affection to Charles I. and was one of the first to take up arms in behalf of that monarch, by whom he was appointed governor of Weymouth, and major-gene- ral of his forces in the west. John, his eldest brother, was groom of the bedchamber to the same king, and attended him in his escape from Hampton Court to the Isle of Wight. Though he was guilty of an error in conducting his sovereign to Colonel Hammond, governor of the island, yet Clarendon assures us that '/ he was a person of unblemished honour and veracity, and had not any temptation, and never gave any cause to have his fidelity suspected.'* * Fgr an account of this prelate see Beauties, Vol. VIII. p. 8O4. SUSSEX. 201 suspected.*' His wife, the daughter and heir of William Hol- land, of West Burton, in this county, took the first step towards the recovery of the paternal inheritance alienated by his father, selling her whole estate to lay out the money in redeeming Ash- burnham. In 1698 his grandson was created by William II f. baron Ashburuham, and the second son of the latter was in 1730 advanced to the dignity of Earl of Ashburnham and Viscount St. Asaph. In these honours and the family estates he was suc- ceeded in 1 737 by his son, who left them at his death, in 1812, to th ; present earl. Ashburnham House, in the midst of an extensive park, though situated rather low, commands a line view of Pevensey Bay and Beachy Head. It is a spacious modern edifice, and the apart- ments are adorned with some good pictures by Vandyke, Lely, and other masters; but at present (1813) this mansion is under- going a thorough repair. The park contains much fine timber, and is well stocked with deer. The pleasure-grounds re- ceived many embellishments from the late venerable pro- prietor, who added a large sheet of water to their attrac- tions. Not far from the mansion stands the parish church. Here, in the Ashburnham chancel are some magnificent monuments for the family from whom it is named. In the vestry are preserved the shirt, stained with some drops of blood, in which Charles I. was beheaded, his watch which he gave at the place of execu- tion to Mr. John Ashburnham, his white silk knit drawers, and the sheet that was thrown over his body. These relics were be- queathed in 1743, by Bertram Ashburnham, Esq. to the clerk of the parish and his successors for ever, and are exhibited as great curiositiies. Bodiham Castle, a small distance eastward of the village of the same name, is seated near the river Rother, on the border of the county. This noble pile, still magnificent even in its ruins, is supposed to have been built by one of the Dalyn- griges, a family of great consequence in Sussex in the 14th 202 SUSSEX. 14th and 15th century. From them it passed 31 Henry VI. with Philippa, daughter and heir of Sir Richard Dalyngrige to Sir Thomas Lewkenor. His family also was of high considera- tion in Sussex, to which it gave several knights of the shire, and nine high sheriffs. It was next the property of the Earls of Thanet, and at length came, by purchase, into the possession of Sir Thomas Webster, with whose other estates it has descended to Sir Godfrey, tlie present owner. This castle, encompassed with a large and deep moat, now stagnant, is nearly square, having a round tower at each an- gle, gates on the north and south fronts, and a square tower in the centre of the east and we^t sides. The grand entrance in the middle of the north front was approached by a kind of causey, defended by an advanced gate, some remains of which are still left. The great gate is extremely grand ; it is flanked by two square machicolated towers; over it are three escutcheons of arms and the iron portcullis yet entire. The inner gate of the south gateway is demolished, and a cottage built on its site. The east and west walls from centre to centre of the corner towers measure 165 feet; those facing the north and south 150* The lodgings and offices were parallel to the main walls, leaving in the centre an open area of 87 feet by 78. The chapel, the hall, and the kitchen, of large dimensions, may yet be distin- guished. The luxuriant ivy with which the mouldering towers and rugged walls of this venerable structure are beautifully mantled, produces a highly picturesque and pleasing effect. *' On the north side of this castle,'' says the Reverend Mr. Russell in a letter to Sir William Burrell, "is a very remark- able echo, which is the most musical I ever heard : the ex- cellence consists in placing the heai'ers and singers at different distances from the edifice." , From an enti'y respecting this place in a book containing an abstract of the grants of 1 Richard 111. it appears that a park was at that time attached to Bodiham Castle. At Brigi^tling, nearly opposite to the church, stands Rose" 9 /«//; SUSSEX. hill, the residence of John Fuller, Esq. who for many years represented this county in Parliament till the general election in 1812. The old mansion was purchased about 1697, by Mr. Thomas Fuller, ■who rebuilt the house, and left it to his ne- phew. This gentleman married Elizabeth, daughter of Mr. Rose, of Jamaica, with whom he acquired considerable pro- perty in that island, and in compliment to her gave this place the name which it now bears. Jolin, his eldest son and suc- cessor, ererted the great room, built additional offices, and sur- rounded the mansion with a park. At his death in 1755, the estate descended to his next brother. Rose Fuller, Esq. from whom it passed to his nephew the present proprietor. This gentleman has recently erected an observatory near his house, and under his auspices an historical account of the three eastern rapes of Sussex is preparing for publication, chiefly from the large manuscript collections of the Rev. Mr. Hayley, now in his possession. Crowhurst, in the parish of the same name, about three miles south-east of Buttle, is the seat and park of Henry Cresset Pel- ham, Esq. the descendant of a younger branch of that ancient family. The mansion which commands an extensive view of the British channel is much out of repair, having been of late years neglected by the proprietor, who chiefly resides on his estate in Shropshire. On the south side of Crowhurst church are considerable re- mains of the walls of a very substantial building. Grose says that it was probably an oratory or chapel, built by one of the an- cient lords of tbis manor, but Sir William Burrell supposes it to have been the old mansion or court-lodge, which name is nosr assumed by the adjacent farm-house> where the courts of the ma- nor are held. In the parish of Guestling, about half way between Hast- ings and Winchelsea, is Bromham, a handsome stone house and park, the property of Sir William Ashburnham, Bart, de- rived from the marriage of his ancestor, a cadet of the an- cient t204 SUSSEX. cient house of Ashburnliairi, with the daughter and heiress of Sir John Stoneling, of Bromhani, about the time of Edward IV. The dignity of baronet was, in 1661, conferred on this fa- mily, which during the last century gave a bishop to the see of Chichester, in tlje person of the late Sir William Ash- burnham, who presided over this diocese from 1754 to 1797. Heathjield Park, in the parish of the same name, was formerly called Baylcy Park, and belonged to the Barons Dacre. Evelyn, alluding to this place, says, " the Lord Dacre somewhere in Sus- sex has a park almost environed with holly, able to keep in any game, as I am credibly informed." Thomas Lord Dacre, who, in 1674, was created Earl of Sussex, sold this estate in the follow- ing year to Hercules Pawlett, Esq. The hext proprietor, James Plummer, Esq. began the present mansion ; but having greatly impaired his fortune in the undertaking, he found it necessary to dispose of the property, which was purchased by John Fuller, Esq. of VValdron, His successor, Raymond Blackmore, Esq. finished the house, which, in 1766, was sold by the sister and heir of Arthur O'Keefe, Esq. to Lieutenant-General Elliot, af- terwards Lord Heathfield, from whom it received its present appel- lation. From his lordship it was purchased in 1791 by Francis Newberry, Esq. the present proprietor. HuRSTMONCEUX was originally called Hurst, from its situa- tion in the midst of the Weald, or forest. Soon after the Nor- man Conquest it was the seat of a family, who took from this place the name of De Hurst, which they retained for several ge- nerations, till one of them assumed the addition of Monceux, probably after his mother, who was heiress of a family settled at Compton-Monceux in Hampshire. On the failure of male issufe in his grandson, Maud, daughter and heir of the latter, carried this estate in marriage to Sir John de Fiennes, about the middle of the reign of Edward II. Their posterity made this place their principal residence. Sir Roger de Fiennes, who attended Henry V. in his expeditions to France with a retinue of between thirty and forty men at arms and archers, and who was treasurer to the household SUSSEX. 205 Iiouseliold of his successor, rebuilt the manor-house at ITurstmon- ceux, and obtained a licence to embattle and fortify it, and to enlarge his park with 100 acres. His son, having married Joan, daughter and sole heir of Lord Dacre, was, 37 Henry VI. invested with that title. In this family Hurstmonceux continued till the death of the last heir male, 37 Elizabeth, when his sis- ter, Margaret, the wife of Sampson Lennard, Esq. succeeded to his honour, and, among other estates, to this castle and manor. Their descendant, Thomas Lord Dacre, married a natural daugh- ter of Charles II. by the Duchess of Cleveland, and was, in the 26th year of that monarch's reign, created Earl of Sussex. Having launched into the expensive gaieties of the court, and indulged too freely in deep play, his affairs became so embar- rassed, that shortly before his death he was obliged to dispose of all his estates in Sussex, and, among the rest, Hurstmonceux,^ which was purchased, in 1701, for 38,2151, by George Naylor, Esq. After an occupation of al>out a century by his family, the estate was sold by the late proprietor, Francis Hare Naylor, Esq. for 60,0001. to Thomas Read Kemp, Esq. M. P. for Lewes.* Hurstmonceux Castle stands in a low situation near the south- ern edge of the park, and is one of the oldest brick buildings in the kingdom. The engravings and description of Grose, who beheld.this structure while entire, are calculated to excite a high idea of its magnificence ; and the number of fine drawings of every part in the collection of the late Sir William Burrell, are suffi- cient, as Pennant remarks, to draw tears from every person of taste who considers the sad change in this noble pile. In forni it is very nearly square, the north and south fronts being 206 feet, and the e.ist and west 214 feet long. The whole was sur- rounded by a deep moat, which has long been dry. The castle consisted of three courts, a larger and two smaller. The great gate-house, in the south front, between two towers 84 feet high, leads * Mr Kemp likewise holds the site of Lewes Castle, the remains of whicb he is fitting up for an occasional summer residence, 206 SUSSEX. leads into the most spacious of the courts, which is cloistered! round. On the north side was the hali, which must have bee» extremely beautiful; it is described as having nearly resembled those of the colleges of our universities, which have not been modernized; the fire-place being in the middle, and the butteries at the lower end. At the upper or east end of this hall were three handsome rooms, one within another, constituting the best apartment in the castle. Beyond them lay the chapel, some par- lours for common use, and rooms for the upper servants, forming the east front. On the west side of the hall was the grand stair- case which occupied an area forty feet square. The spacious kitchen beyond it, as well as the hall and chapel, reached in height to the upper story. The offices were ample, and the oven in the bake-house was fourteen feet in diameter. The left side of the south front beyond the great gate-house, con- sisted of a long waste room like a gallery, apparently intended for a stable in case of a siege. Under the eastern corner tower in the same front was an octagonal room, formerly the prison, having in the middle a stone post with a strong iron chain! Above the best apartments was a suite of rooms in the same style; and in every window of the different galleries leading to the chambers on this floor was painted on glass the ainat, or wolf-dog, the ancient supporter of the arms of the family of Fiennes. Many private winding staircases, curiously construct- ed in brick williout any wood-work, communicated with these galleries. The walls are of great thickness ; the wliole having been entirely of b.rick, excepting the window and door-cases, watert tables and copings which were of stone. Such is the substance of Grose's description of this venerable. edifice, which, till 1777, was the most perfect and regular castellated mansion in thJ kingdom. The timber being then upon inspection deemed so much decayed as to render the repair very expensive, the roof was taken down by the proprietor, the Rev. Mr. Hare, and the interior so completely stripped, tiiat nothing but the bare walls was left standing. The materials thus obtained were employed in SUSSEX. 207 in the erection of some additional rooms in the mansion-liouse, a neat white edifice on the west side of the park. From a survey of tliis estate taken 1*2 Elizabeth, it appears that tlic moat which encompuissed the castle on the south, west, and north sides, as well as the pool on the east, which washed the wall on the east side, had been drained for health's sake not long before. The same record informs us, that the park was then three miles in circumference, " the third part lying in lawns, and the residue being well set with great timber-trees, most of beech, and partly of oak." The fallow deer were estimated at 200 ; there were four fish-ponds abundantly stocked with carp, tench, and other fish, besides fours^tews; and a hernery called Hern- wood. This park is agreeably diversifiied; it is still finely wooded with old trees, particularly beech, which are esteemed some of the largest in tlie kingdom, and well watered with clear streams. Most parts of it command a pleasing view over tlie adjacent rich level of Pevensey ; the sea appears to the south ; the hills towards Hastings on the east ; while the majestic South Downs rise at some distance to the west. The church, situated near the park, contains some curious mo- numents of the family of Fiennes. NoKTHYHAM, or NoRDiHAM, gave birlh to Archbishop Frewen, whose father was rector of that parish, in the church of which many of his family are interred. He was educated at Magdalen College, Oxford, of which he became fellow and prest- dent; and in 1622, accompanied Charles I. in his matrimonial expedition to Spain, in quality of chaplain. In 1643 he was ap- pointed by that king to the see of Litchfield and Coventry, and promoted, at the Restoration in 1660 to the primacy of York. Fuller, in treating of this county says : Many shires have done worthily, but Sussex surmounteth them all, having bred five arch- bishops of Canterbury, and at this instant (1661) claiming for her njitives the two metropolitans of our nation, Juxon and Frewen." The latter died in 1664, aged 75. At RoBERTSBRiDGE, or RoTHERRRiDGE, called also accord- ing 208 SUSSEX, ing to Magna Britannia Pont Robert, where the Rother, which here divides into three branches, is crossed by as many bridges, was a priory of Cistercian monks, founded in 1176, by Robert, or as Tanner says, Alvred de St. Martin, second liusband of Alice, daughter of William de Albini, Earl of Arundel, and Queen Ade- liza. This lady, and the family of her first husband, John, Earl of Eu, were great benefiictors to this house, to which their gifts were confirmed by Edward III. At the dissolution, when this monastery contained twelve monks, its annual revenues were va- lued, according to Dugdale, at 2461. IDs. 6d. It was granted 33 Henry VIII. to Sir William Sidney ; and was some years since the property of the Earl of Leicester, by whom the small remains of the conventual buildings, supposed to have been part of the offices, were converted into a farm-house. Beauport in the parish of Westfield, about half way between Hastings and Battle, is a handsome modern stone edifice, seated on an eminence that commands magnificent sea-views, extending to Boulogne and Calais, which in clear weather may be distinctly seen. This mansion, now the property of Sir James Bland Burges, Bart, was the seat of the late General James Murray, who named it after Beauport, near Quebec, in Canada, at the re- duction of which he acted a distinguished part ; and here reposed during the latter years of his life from the hardships and fatigues of active service.* • The general was left governor of Quebec in 1759, and the following spring was near losing the fruits of Wolfe's victory by a spirited, but need- less attack on the French, who attempted to retake the place, in which he wasted much valuable blood, and was beaten back into the city. In 1781 he was entrusted with the defence of Minorca, and with his usual courage sup- ported a siege from the Due de Crillon. He held out in Fort St. Philip till it was reduced to a mere hospital, and, as his pathetic letter relates, marched out with the poor remains of his force, reduced to 600 old decrepid invalids, whose situation drew tears frouj the generous enemy. LIST Of THE PRINCIPAL BOOKS, MAPS, AND VIEWS, THAT HAVE BEEN PUBLISHED IN Illustration of the Topography , Antiquiiiesy of the COUNTY OF SUSSEX, Considering the ample materials illustrative of the history, to- pography, and antiquities of this county, collected by different indivi- duals, it cannot but appear surprising that no general account of Sussex should have been yet given to the public. The earliest of these. collections, which, though large, was but of local interest, was made by Mr. Howe, steward to Lord Bergavenny from 1597 to 1622 : it relates chiefly to the town and such parts of tlie barony of Lewes as were vested m his noble patron, and contains copious ex- tracts from the baronial MSS. concerning the possessors of manors, their tenures, and' privileges. His original manuscript, in folio, men- tioned by Mr. Gough as having been in the possession of George Medley, Esq. is now the property of the Hon. Mr. Jenkinson, of Euxted-Place; but has for many years been deposited in the office of John Hoper, Esq. of Lewes, attorney-at-law. Mr. Wakeham, a gen- tleman of the same profession at East-Grinstead, had a copy orna- mented with the arms of the owners of manors, &c. wlifch still be- longs to his widow, who resides at the same place ; and another copy is preserved in the British Museum. A Mr. Brown, formerly of New Shoreham, issued proposals for • publishing a history of Sussex, in two octavo volumes, which never appeared.' His widow still resides at Shoreham ; but what progress he made, or whether his materials are yet in her possession, 1 have not learnt. The Rev. Mr. Hayley, some years since rector of Brightling, made large collections relative to the history and antiquities of this county, which are at present in the possession of John Fuller, Esq. of Rose- hill. But the most magnificent collection perhaps ever formed for a his- tory of this, or any other county, is that which occupied a con- siderable portion of the life of the late Sir William Burrell, Bart, and which, bequeathed by him to the British Museum, now forms a va- luable monument of his indublry yjid public spirit. In order to afford some idea of the magnitude of his undertaking, it may be suflicient to state that, including nine large port-folios, containing views of towns, buildings, and antiquities, this collection extends to forty-two vo- YoL. XIV. 2L lumti;, MST OF BOOKS, &C, lumes, most of which are thick folios. On this copious fund the fu- ture historian of Sussex will not fail to draw for materials, which must greatly facilitate and abridge bis labours. Sussex, however, is at length likely to possess a county his- tory, on a scale adequate to do justice to the numerous interest- ing objects which it comprehends. Under the patronage of the Duke of Norfolk, the Rev. Mr. Dallaway has been for a long time engaged upon an account of the three rapes constituting the western division of the county, which will be comprised in two quarto vo- lumes, and two others devoted to the three eastern rapes, are pre- paring for publication, under the auspices of John Fuller, Esq, of Kosehill. I have met with no distinct work relative to the topography of the county in general. There is an Index Villaris, or list of places, with- out date, intituled, *' A Description of Kent and Sussex ; or a Fiexv of all the Cities, Tozvns, and tillages in each County, Written for the use of his countrymen, by Robert Russel of Sussex. London" " General Fiexv oj the Agriculture of the County of Sussex, drawn up for the Board of Agriculture and Internal Improvenient. By the Rev. Arthur Young, 1808." Svo.accompanied with a Map, exhibiting the extent of the different soils of which the county is composed. The History of Chichester, interspersed with various Note."} and Observations on the early and present state of the City, the most remarkable Places in, its Vicinity, and the County of Sussex in gene- rai B/j Alexander Hay, M. A. Vicar of Wishorough Green, and Chaplain of St. Mary's Chapel, in this City. Chicliester. 1804." Svo. In the preface to this volume Mr. Hay acknowledged himself the author of the ** Chichester Guide,'' published anonymously about twenty years before, and which in this work he profesed lo have corrected and enlarged. He also announced his intention of giving to the public an account of the privileges of the manor of Bosham, of which, however, death preveiited the accomplishment. Since his decease another work, bearing the title of his first publication, has appeared. The Chichester Guide, comprising an Account of the Ancient and Present State of that City and its Neighbourhood, together with a more full and particular Description of the Cathedral than has yet been offered to the Public. 1811. foolsc. Svo. With a Frontispiece representing the Cross, *' Antiquities of Arundel ; the peculiar Privileges of its Castle and Lordship ; with an Abstract of the Lives of the Earls qf Arundel from the Conquest to this Time. By the Master of the Grammar^ School at Arundel, \76b." Svo. " Ancient and Modern History of Lewes and Brighthelmstone , in zvhich are compressed the most interesting Events of the County at large, under the Regnian, Roman, Saxon, and Norman Settlements. By W. Lee. Zft^e*, 1795." Svo." '** The Brighton and Lewes Guide, containing an abridged History of those Towns, and a Descript-ie-i of the Coast fro.m Eust-Bounte ia Worthing, 2d edit. Lewes."" " A Short History of Brighthchnstone, with Remarks on it^f Air, and an Analysis of its fVaiers, particularly of an unco?n?non mineral one. LIST OF BOOKS, Scc, torm in 1703, in this county. In XXX. p. "549, is a minute ac- count of a tesselated pavement, bath, and other antiquities discovered in March 1717, near Eastbourne; being part of a letter from the learned John Tabor, iM. D. of Lewes, to John Thorpe, M. D. In the same volume, p. 783, is the rest of this letter, concerning the site of the ancient city of Anderida, and other remains of antiquity in this county. In XXXII. p. 391, is lloo^r Gale's account of a Roman Inscription found at Chichester. In aXXIV. p, 132, an account of an Aurora Borealis atPetvvorth, Octobers, 1726, by Benjamin Lang- w'ith, O. D. In XXXVII. p. 108, a letter of Mr, T. Frewen on the condition of the town of Hastings after it had been visited by the small-pox. XLI. p. 606, coiilains observatioiTS on remarkable red lights seen in the air in this county, December 5, 1737, by Rose Fuller, M. D. who at p. 871 of the same volume, gives an account of a fire-ball seen in the air, and an explosion heard December 11, J741 ; and in XLIX. p. 353, is a communication from Philip Car- 7 teret LIST OF BOOKS, &C. teret WoM), Esq. on the agitntion in tlie waters of Sussex on Novem- ber 1, 1755, during the memorable earthquake at Lisbon. In the ** Antiquarian and 1'opographical Cabinet,'* are plates and descriptions of the following subjects in this county: — No. 1, Amhcrlaj Caslle. No, \\, Pevcitse?/ Oistle. No. 24, Saxon Door, Chichester. No. 33, Momtat^ni nf Gre'f friars, IVinchelsca. No. 34, Chichester Cross, No. 35, iS". E. f^ieiu of Chichester Ca- thedral; S. fF. Tower of Do.; Bdl. Tozver; N. Eatrance ; Arches at the East End; Nave; Interior i Buttress on the North Side. No. 38, Coivdray House, west front ; Part of the Hall and Chapel. No. 39, Chantri'i of St. Richard in Chichester Cathedral. No. 40, 'S'^. Marifs Hospital, Chichester ; Stalls in the Chapel of tli- Hospi- tal. No. 42, Remains of Bayham Ahhey Church ; Gateivuy of Baij- ham Abbey. Britton's " Architectural Antiquities,^^ part 5, contains an engrav- ing of ChichesLer Cross. in Grose's Antiquities," Vq]. V, are engravings and historical particulars of ArimdeL Castle ; Battle Abbey, two views; Begeha??i OT Bayham Abbey ; Bodiham CaHle, two views of the exterior, and one of the interior ; the Crypt at Bosham Church ; Boxgrove Priory ; Bramber Castle ; Br amber Church ; the Block-house at Brighihelm- ston ; Eastbourne Priory ; Halnaker House ; Hastings CarJie, two views and a plan; Hurstmonceux Castle, four views; St. Jameses Hospital, Lewes; St. John's Church sub Castro, Leivcs ; Iprcs Tozver at Rye; Knap Castle; Lezues Castle, view and pl:in ; Leives Priory, two vie'-vs ; Mayjield Place, two views ; Pevensey Castle, two per- spective views, also a bird's eye view; Shelhred Priory ; Stanstcad Place; The Toim Hall, Chichester; the Vicars' College, Chichcs' tef ; Monastery of the Grey Friars, IVinclielsea ; PFinchelsea Castle ; ff^'inchelsea Church; North-east Gate of IFinchelsea. lu Vol. VIII. of the same work are the following subjects : — Brede Place; Great Hall in the Palace of Mayjield; Michelham Priory , two views ; a building belonging to the Abbey of Robertshridge ; Ruin near Croivhurst Church; Scotney Castle; and Verdiey ov Ford- ley Castle, with a ground- plan. Among tiie engravings in the European Magazine are the fol- lowing subjects in this county : — In Vol. XV. Stanstead Place. XXII. Chichester Cross. XXIV. East Bourne. Two Views of Arundel Castle, one in Vol. XXXVI. ; the other in Vol. XLIV. XLIU. Baths at Brighton. In the Gentleman's Magazine are numerous notices illustrative of the topography of Sussex, accompanied with many views of churches, but in general on a very small scale. MAPS, PLANS, AND VIEWS. The earliest map of Sussex was published together with that gf Kent by Saxton in tlie year 1575. This was succeeded by Norden's, which was reprinted vvilli additions by Speed in 1670 ; Hollar's; Herman Moll's ; Bowen's and Pine's, accompanied with an IchnO- graphy and north view of Chichester, and an ichnography and south 2 L 3 view LIST OF BOOKS, &C. view of Lewes. The most minute that has hitherto appeared, is Bud' gen's, in six sheets, published in 1724. The most modern as w ell as the most correct is Laurie and Wliittle'.Sy upon one sheet with Surrey, delineated from the best surveys and authorities, and re- gulated by astronomical observations by Nathaniel Coltman. It was published in 1807. Smaller maps have been given by Carey and Smith among their county maps, and also in the Atlas which accom- panies this work. The greater part of Sussex is comprehended in Edivards's General Map of Fourteen Hundred Square Miles, published in 1792 (see the list for Surrey) ; and tb.e Coast was delineated by Gardiner and Jeakyll 'm 1778 ; and Ashdown Forest by Kelton. Budgen published a Flan of the Course of the Hurricane frQ7n Bexhiti to Neivenden Level, May 20, 1 729. A Flan of Goodivood Fark, Gardens, and Plantations, was en- graved by Hulsherg. In Stukeley's Itinerary, pi. 71, is a Plan of Chichester, under the name of Mantantonis. An accurate Plan of the same city and sub- urbs, by Gardiner and Jeakyll, was published in 1769, on two sheets and a half, with views of the Cathedral, the Cross, and a Plan taken in 1610. Hollar has engraved the following views in this county : — Arundel, and Castle ; Bramher Castle ; Ruins of Bramber Cas- tle, two views; OldShoreham; Ruins of Pevcnsey Castle ; IViston Place. In 1737 and 1738, the Messrs. Bucks published views of Chiches- ter, S. W. Arundel, E. Battle Abbey, S. W. Begeham Abbey, N. Lcives Priory and Castle, S. Boxgrove Priory, N. W. l^m- chelsea Monastery, S. Fcvensey Castle, N. and S. Bodiham Cas- tle, N. E. fVinchelsea Castle, W. Hurstmonceux Castle, S. W. Of Chichester a north view was also engraved by King. A\\ en- graving of the Cross was made at the expense of the Society ot Anti- quaries in 1743 ; and two views of the same edifice, E. and \V. drawn by Ride, and engraved by Vertuc, were published in 1749- Stuke- ley, in his Itinerary, pi. 4<>, gives a lepresentation of a Roman hi- scription {ow\\(\ \\\ thai city, which is likewise engraved in the pre- face to Hearne's edition of Domesday, with remarks by Dr. Baily, of Havant. There are five views of Lewes, engraved by Basire. A view of Brighthelmston from a drawing by Lambert was engrav- ed in 1766. An inside view of Winchelsea Castle v:zs published by F. Perry. An engraving of Iping Lake, by J. Mason, from a drawing by W. Beller was published in 1763. INDEX INDEX TO THE COUNTY OF SUSSEX. A. Abergavenny, Lord, his mo- uument at East Grinstead, 150. Adeliza, relict of King Henry I. her spirited reply to King Stephen, 78. Adur, river, its course, 11. Albini, William de. Earl of Arundel, his remarkable exploit, 77. Albourne Place, lOo. Aldrington, 143. Amberley Casile, 87. Angmering Park, 88. Ardingleigh, 144. Arun, river, its course, 10 ; improve- ment in its navigation, 13. Arundel, rape of, 75. town of, situation, popula- tion, dec. 75 ; the castle, 75, 83 ; the church, 88 ; ancient hospital, theatre, bridge, 84. Abhdown Forest^ 149. Ashburnhani, '^00 ; relics pre«erved in the. church of ihat place, ^?(J1. • House, the scat of the Earl of Ashburnhau), 201. Battle, origin of its name, 179 ; of its abbey, ISO j present state of that edifice, 181-183; population, 6cc. of the town, the church, 183. Bayham Abbey, a seat of Marquis Camden, 168. Beachy Head, clifts of, 163; curious cavern in theni, 164. Beauport, tlie seat of Sir J. B. Barges, Bart. 208. Berstead, South, 61. Bevis, tradition respecting him, 76. )3ignor, beautiful tesselaled [lavement discovered there, 88. Bodiham Casile, 201-2. Bognor, 62. Bolebroke House, J 79. Borde, Andrew, account of liim, 162. Bosham, 63. Herbert de, 64. Boxgrove, 64 ; priory, 65 ; church, 66 ; hospital, 67. Bradwardine, arclibishop, a native of Chichester, 56. 9 Braraber, rape of, 92. village of, situation, popu- lation, representation, 92 j castle, 93; church, 94. Brambletye House, 151. Brazen sloop of war, lost ofF New- haven, 146. Brighthelmston, population, 113; history, 114; government, situa- tion, principal streets, 115 ; statue of the Prince Regent, the Steyne, the Marine Pavilion, 116; the church, 119; the chapel royal, meeting-houses, theatre, 120; royal circus, assembly-rooms, libraries, bathing, 121; chalybeate spring, market-house, work-house, vicar- age, schools, battery, barracks, 123 ; race-course, 124. Brightling, 202. Broadwater, descent of the manor, 105 ; the church, 106. Bromham, the seat of Sir W. Ash- burnham, Bart. 203. Buckhurst, 178. Burton Park, the seat of John Bid* dulph, Esq. 90. Bunell, Sit William, account of him, 125. c Camber Castle, neai Winchelsea, 199. Camois, Ralph de, extraoidinary deed respecting his wife executed by him, 205. Cannon House, the seat of Lord Sel- sea, 75. Charles II. his escape to France from Brighton, 120. Chichester, rape of, its bounddties, 33. — — — — , city of, its situation, an- cient history, 33 ; modern history, 54 ; its corporation, representation, fairs, and markets, 35 ; its port, trade, and manulactures, 36 ; po^ pulation, 37 ^ the cathedral, 37-48 ; parish churches and episcopal pa- lace, 48 ; the Deanry, the Friar/, 49 ; the guildhall, the council- chaiaV^r, INDEX. cliamber, 5'); the assembly-room, theatre, cnitoin-hous*^, cross, 51 ; the grammar school, free school, charify schools, St. Murk's hospi- tal, bi ; the vvork;-h()use, dispeu- sary, gaol, o3 ; Roman remainb, 54; eminent natives, 55-57. Chillincworth, William, ins epitaph, 45. ^ Clapham, 107. Collins, William, his monument, 44 ; biographical account of limi, 56. Conibe'f, Ur. Thomas, account of him, 110. Compton Place, the seat of Lord G. H. Cavendish, 161. Cool Hurst, a seat of the Earl of Gal- loway, 97. Corsica Hall, the seat of the Hon. Thos. Bowes, 157. Cowdray-housc, 59-62. Cowfold, curious sepulchral engrav- ing there, 107, 8: Croucii, Mrs. her monument, 1^0. Crowhurst, the seat of H.C. Pelham, Esq. -203. Cuckfield, situation and population, 124 ; descent of the manor, the church, free grammar school, 125. Place, D. Dalyngryge, tomb of one of that fa- mily at Fletchin^;. 166, Dane's Gate, jn Endge Park, 17^!. Danny, the seat of W. J. Campion, Esq. 145. Darby, Parson, traditions respecting liiiii, Dean, West, 75. Dp la VVarr, Lord, his monument at Broadwater, 106. Denn Park, the spat of \V. Mark- u ick, E4;in, archbishop, miracle related of him, 175, E. Easehonrne, 67. Eiislhourne, 161 ,* church, 162 ; an- tiquities discovered there, l6:i. Endge Castle, the *oat of the E?.rl of Abergavenny, 170. Ewburst, 110. F. Findon Place, the seat of Mrs. Rich- ardson, 109. Fitzalan, Richard, Earl of Arundel, hiS execution, 78, 79. F!elohi',g, 165; the church, 166. i'rani utad, William, Esq. his collec- tion of mechanical and philosophi- cal apparacus, 109. Fra.U, 166 Frewen, archbishop, account of him, 207, G. Gibbon, Edward, Esq. Lis sepulchral inscription at Fletciiing, 167. Glytide, seat, of Lord Hampden at lhat place, 17'2; the church, 173. Glyiide-Bourn, the seat of the Hay family, 173. Goodwood, the seat of the Duke of Richmond, 68 Grinstead, East, population , repre- sentation, 149 ; the church. Sack- vil le College, 1 50; free-school, 151. Grinstead Park, West, the seat of Walter Biirrell, Esq. 111. Go est ling, 203. Gundred, daughter of William the Conqueror, her monument at Lew- es, 139. II. Hailsham, situation, population, church, 1 53. Halnaker-hoiisc, 64, 6.5. Hanson, Captain, monument for him and his crew, i46. Hardham Priory, 90. Hardham, John, his legacy to the poor of Chichester, 53. Harting, 67. Hastings, rape of, 179. Hastings, town of, situation, popula- tion, antiquity, 184; the castle, 1H5 ; the priory, 187 ; parish- church, town hull, market-place, harbour, ,l8y ; trade, bathini:, 189. Hay, William, Esq. particulars re- specting him, 173 and note. Hcathfield Park, the seat of F. New- berry, Esq. '2()4. Highdcn, the seat of Sir Harry Go- ring, Bart. I(i9. Hill-Place, a seat of the Duke of Norfolk, 97. Hollingbury Castle-Hill, 124- Horsham, situation, population, re- presentation. NDEX. presentation, marl-enters, harracks, 97. H«)rbham Park, the seat of II. Hv^r^t, Esq. 97. Hothani, Sir Richard, account ofhim, 63, note. Hurstmonceux, 204 ; castle, 205. Hurst-per-point, descent of ilie ma- nor, the church, 144. I. Ipres Castle, at Rye, 19l\ Islip, Archbp. circumstances whicli occasioned his death, )73, note. J. Juxon, i.\rchbp. account of him, 55. K. Kidhrooke, the seat of the Right Jlon. Charles Abbot, 153. Knap Castle, IJl ; ancient ring dis- covered near it, 112. L. Ladjholt-house, 63. Lancing, 109. Lamberhurst, parisli of. 174. Langley- Point, lor;s erected there, 163. Langton, Bp. account of him, 39, 40. Lavant, river, its course, 10. , East, 68. Leclie, Richard, Esq. his monument at Fletching, 166. Lewes, rape of, 113. — town of, situation, popula- tion, representation, niunici[)al go- vernment, 126 ; histur}', 127 ; tlie castle, 128; priory, I'z'J ; olJier monastic foundations, fortifications, 135; parish-churches; St. John's sub Castro, 186 ; St. John's South- over, 139 ; All Saints', St. Mi- chael's, St.Ann's, St Thomas' in the Clitic ; niecting-housfci for Dissen- ters ; shire-hall, 140 ; house -of correction ; free grammai'- school ; theatre, assembly-rooms; library- society ; Sussex Agricultural So- ciety ; market, 143 ; race-course; battle fought there between H«nry III. and the barons, 142; bar- racks, 113. Lewkenor, Lady Katherine, her mo- nument at Eiist-Grmstcad, 150. Liltiehaujplon, 91. Lutlungton, Henry, ptirliculars re- epcciing him, Vyj. Lushington, Dr. his tomb at East- bourne, 162. Lynchmere, 7 0. M. Mangnus, a Danish chieftain, curious monumental niscription for him ut Lewes, 1:)7. Mayfield, ancient palace of the arch- bishop of Canterbury at that place, 17 5; descent of the manor and mansion, )76. ' Michelgrove, the seat of Sir J. Shel- ley, Kart, 107. Miclielham priory, 154 ; present re- mains, 155. Midhurst, the Milba, or Mida of the Romans, 57 ; its representation ; the church, 58; town-hall and free grammar-school. 59. Montacutfc, Viscount, his monumont at Midhurst, 58. Morley, Sir Wm. his monument, 67'. jMuutluim Park, 109, JMurray, General, particulars respect- ing him, 208, note. N. I^ewhaven, its port, 145^ monu- ments for the crew of the Brazen sloop ; the church, 146. Newiimber-placc, the seat of J. L. Newnliam, Esq. i 16. North, Dudley Loid, particulars re- specting hinj, J71 note. Northyham, 207. / o. Ollington, tlie seat of W. Margesson, Esq. 107. Otway, Thomas, account ofhim, 75. Ouse, river, iis course, 11. Owen, Sir David, his monument, 67. P. Parham, the seat of Sir Cecil Bis- shopp, Bart. 91. Payne, P^obert and Henr^*, found the Iree-school at East-Grinstead, 151. Pctworlh, . situation, population, church, 24; market-house, cha- rity-school, almshouse, hospital, bridewell, descent of the manor,'85. 1-Jouse, the seat of the Earl of Egremont, 86. Pevensey, rape of, 148. — • , village of, its ancient im- portance and Jiistory, 157 ; the castle, 158 ; celebrated native, 160. Poy nings, descent of* the nianor, . 146; INDE^X. 146; the church, ancient mansion-house, 118. R. Racton, 72. Kichards, Sir Jaraes, conjecture re- specting him, 152. Rother river, its course, 11. Robertsbridge, priory, 208. Rosehill, the residence of John Ful- ler,. Esq. 203. Rye, population, representation, his- tory, 190 J Ipres Castle, ancient religious houses, the church, the free grammar-school, 192 ; the free-school, market-place, town- hall, harbour, trade, 193. S. St. Richard, Bishop of Chichester, his tomb, 43. Salvington, 102. Saxonbury-hill, 172. Scotney Castle, the seat of E. Hiis- sey, Esq. 174. Seaford, its ancient consequence; representation, 155 ; the church, baths, fort, 156. Seal Priory, 110. Seldon, John, a native of Salvington, 10^. Selsea, isle of, 73. Sheffield-place, tlie seat of Lord Shef- field, l6o. Shelbred Priory, 70. Shennanbury, 110. Shipley, 111. Shirley, account of three brothers of that name, 112. Shoreham, New, situation, popula- tion, representation, 9H • ci)urch, 99 ; market-house, priory, har- buur, trade, 100. , Old, its church, 97 ; bridge, 98. Shurborne, Bishop> embellishes Chi- chester cathedral, 41 ; his monu- ment, 42 Slindon, 73. House, the seat of the Earl of Newburgh, 72. South-Down sheep, breed of, de- scribed, ^0. Smith, Mrs. Charlotte, a native of Bignor, 89 ; monument for her at Stoke near Guildford, 90, note. Williau), George, and John, landscape-painters account of tht m, 56. Springfield, the seat of W, Merria, Esq, 97. Stanstead-house, the seat of Lewis - Way, Esq. 72. Stanmer, the residence of the Earl of Chichester, 177, vSteyning, population, representation, 100 ; the church, free grammar- school, 101 ; barracks, pnory, 102. Stonelaiid-hoube, the seat of Lord Whitworth, 178. Sussex, its situation, extent, and di- vision, 5 ; population, 6 ; climate, soil, and surface, 7 ; minerals, 9, rivers, 10; woods, 11 ; wastes, roads and canals, 13 ; state of property, ll' ; buildings, 15; state of the poor, 16; agriculture, 16 — 23 ; general history, '23 ; honorial history, '■26 ; ecclesiastical history, 27 ; ecclesiastical and civil govern- ment, 29; Roman stations; en- cam[)ments, and roads, 29. Terring, 102. Tettersell, Nicholas, his monument and inscription, 119. Trevor, Bi.^liop, inscription for him at Glynde, )73. Trotton, 75. u. Up Park, 67. V. Verdley Castle, 71. W. Waddington, Bishop, his monyimont. 40. Warren, the Earl of, foiinds the pri- ory at Le\'. es, 130; ascription on his iiioiuiment, 131. Westfield, 208, White hawk-Hill, 124, Winchelsea, population, 193 ; ciiar- ters, liistorical particulars, 191-6; situation, church, 197 ; religious houses, 198 ; the court-house, goal, the gates, the castle, 199» Winchelsea, Robert de.. Archbishop of Canterbury, his expensive cha- rity, 200. Wiston-park, the seat of Charles Goring, Esq. U'2. Withyham, 178. Worthinj:, its situation, principal streets^ chapel, i;)3 ; theatre, mar- ♦ ket, Warwick- hou.te. Worthing- house, 104.