AT URBANA-CHAMPAICN 914.5 1 1869 The person charging this material is re- sponsible for its return to the library from which it was withdrawn on or before the Latest Date stamped below. Theft, mutilation, and underlining of books are reasons for disciplinary action and may result in dismissal from the University. UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN AL*6 ' 'WI8 14 SEP 3 1979 0 SEP 1 9 I5J0 H.s'' 0 8^952 19 ^ O AF>. 1 S94 f 2 L161 — 0-1096 Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2017 with funding from University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign Alternates https://archive.org/details/italyhandbookfor00karl_2 ’ > i * SOUTHERN ITALY, SICILY ETC. MONEY-TABLE (comp. p. XI). Approximate Equivalents. ITALY. HANDBOOK FOR TRAV ELTRR S BY K. B^DEKER. PART THIRD; SOUTHERN ITALY, SICILY, and excursions to the LIPARI ISLANDS. TUNIS, SARDINIA, MALTA AND ATHENS. With 6 Maps and 7 Plans. SECOND EDITION, REVISED AND AUGMENTED. COBLENZ. KARL B^:DEKER. 1869. Right of translation reserved. “Go, little book, God send thee good passage. And specially let this be thy prayere Unto them all that thee will read or hear, Where thou art wrong, after their help to call. Thee to correct in any part or all.” CHAUCER, 1380. PREFACE. The object of the present Handbook, like that of the editor’s other works of the same description, is to render the traveller as independent as possible of the services of guides, valets-de-place and others of the same class, to supply him with a few remarks on the progress of civili- zation and art among the people with whom he is about to become acquainted, and to enable him to realize to the fullest extent the enjoyment and instruction to be derived from a tour in Italy. The Handbook is, moreover, intended to place the tra- veller in a position to visit the places and objects most deserving of notice with the greatest possible economy of time, money, and, it may be added, temper; for in no country is the traveller’s patience more severely put to the test than in some parts of Italy. The editor will endeavour to accompany the enlightened traveller through the streets of the Italian towns, to all the principal edi- fices and works of art; and to guide his steps amidst the exquisite scenery in which Italy so richly abounds. With a few trifling exceptions , the entire Handbook is framed from the editor’s personal experience , acquired at the places described. As, however, infallibility cannot be attained, the editor will highly appreciate any bond fide information with which travellers may favour him. That already received, which in many instances has been most serviceable, he gratefully acknowledges. The Maps and Plans, the result of great care and research, will abundantly suffice for the use of the ordinary traveller. The inexperienced, when steering their course YI PKEFACE. with the aid of a plan , are recommended , before starting, to mark their point of destination with a coloured pencil. This will enable them to avoid many a circuitous route. Those who desire a more intimate acquaintance with the country than the following pages will enable them to attain should purchase the admirable Supplementary Sheets of G. Mayr's Atlas of the Alps (for Central and Southern Italy). They are most easily procured in Germany (price^ mounted, 2 dollars each). For Naples the map of the Beat Officio Topograjico (Naples, 1835) will be found useful. Altitudes are given in Parisian feet (1 Par. ft. = lVi 5 Engl. ft.). Distances are generally given in English miles. Tho Italian “miglio” varies in different districts. Approximately it may be stated that 1 Engl. M. = 6/7 Ital. migl. = lVi 4 Homan migl. Eailway, Diligence and Steamboat Time-tables. The most trustworthy are contained in the ^'Guida- Orario ufficiale di tutte le strade ferrate d Italia contenente anche le indicazioni dei Piroscaji (steamboats), Corrieri , Diligenzd^ etc., with map, published at Milan (price 40 c.). Hotels. In no country does the treatment which the traveller experiences at hotels vary so much as in Italy, and attempts at extortion are probably nowhere so out- rageous. The asterisks are therefore to be regarded as in- dicating those hotels which the editor believes to be com- paratively respectable, clean and reasonable. The average charges stated in the Handbook will at least enable the traveller to form a fair estimate of the demands ^thich can be justly made. CONTENTS. Introduction. Page I. Travelling Expenses. Monetary System .... XI II. Period and Plan of Tour XIII III. Language XIV IV. Passports and Custom-houses XIV V. Public Safety. Mendicity XV VI. Traffic . XVI VII. Locomotion XVI II VIII. Hotels XXII • IX. Restaurants and Cafes XXIII X. Churches, Theatres, Shops etc XXV XI. Postal Arrangements XXV XII. Calculation of Time XXVI XIII. Climate. Mode of Life XXVI Route 1. From Rome to Naples. Railway by Velletri, San Ger- mane and Capua i 1. Alatri. Grotto of Collepardo. Pozzo d’Antullo. Veroli . 3 2. Xola. Palma. Sarno. San Severino 12 3. Avellino. Monte Vergine. Amsanctus Lake. Ariano . 12 4. Valley of the Liris. Isola. Arpino 13 5. Sora. Atina. Lago Fucino 14 6. Avezzano. Celano. Alba 15 2. From Rome to Naples. By the Pontine marshes, Terra- cina, Gaeta and Capua 16 1. Sezza. Piperno 18 2. Promontorio Circeo 19 3. Sperlonga 21 4. Ponza Islands 22 3. From Rome to Naples by sea 24 4. Naples 25 5. Pozzuoli, Baise, Misenum, Cumse ........ 87 6. Procida and Ischia . 100 7. Mount Vesuvius . 105 1. Herculaneum Ill 8. Pompeii 112 9. Castellamare, Sorrento and Capri 136 1. Monte Sant’ Angelo 138 VIII contp:nts. Route 10. From Naples to Salerno, Pacstiim and Amalfi 1. Corpo di Cava 2. Ravello 3. From Amalfi to Sorrento 4. From Scaricatojo to Sorrento 5. From Positano to Sorrento 6. From Amalfi to Castellamare by the Little S. Angelo 11. From Ancona to Brindisi and the Apulian Peninsula . 1. Fermo 2. Ascoli 3. Teramo. Gran Sasso 4. From Termoli to Maddaloni. Campobasso .... 5. Manfredonia 6. Canosa. Andria. Ruvo 12. From Ancona to Naples by Pescara, Popoli, Solmona and through the Abruzzi 1 . Chieti 2. S. Pelino 13. From Ancona by Foggia to Naples 14. From Terni to Naples by Aquila and through the Abruzzi 1. Leonessa. Cascia. !Norcia 2. S. Vittorino 15. From Naples to the Coast of the Adriatic by Eboli, Potenza, Melfl, Venosa and Canosa 16. From Bari to Taranto 1. From Taranto to Lecce 17. From Naples to Reggio by Eboli. The Calabrian Peninsula 1. Metapontum 2. Corigliano. Rossano. Strongoli 3. Catanzaro. Squillace. Gerace 4. Nicastro 5. S. Stefano del Bosco 6. Aspromonte Range Page 145 146 154 155 155 155 156 156 157 158 158 160 161 162 166 167 167 169 172 173 175 175 179 180 181 182 183 183 185 186 188 Sicily. General Remarks Geography and Statistics . Historical Notice 1, I*olitical History . . . . 2. History of Civilisation and Art 18. From Naples to Sicily . . . . A. To Messina B. To Palermo 189 192 194 184 199 202 202 204 CONTENTS. IX Houte Page 19. Palermo 205 120. Environs of Palermo 213 a. Monreale. S. Martino. La Zisa 213 b. Monte Pellegrino. The Favorita 216 c. The Bagaria. Solanto. S. Maria di Gesu . . . 218 1. Ustica 219 21. Excursion from Palermo to Tunis 219 1. Pantellaria 220 2. Carthage 222 22. From Palermo to Segesta, Castelvetrano and Selinunto 223 23. From Palermo to Segesta, Trapani, Marsala and Oastel- vetrano 228 24. From Castelvetrano (Selinunto) to Girgenti .... 234 25. From Girgenti to Syracuse by Palma, Licata, Terra- nuova, Modica (Val d^Ispica) and Palazzolo .... 241 1. From Modica to Syracuse by Noto 246 26. From Girgenti by Caltanisett^ to Castrogiovanni and to Catania 247 27. From Girgenti to Palermo 247 1. From Palermo to Sciacca by Corleone 248 28. From Palermo to Catania through the interior of the island 249 1. From Castrogiovanni to Catania by Caltagirone . . . 255 29. From Palermo to Messina by Termini, Cefalu, Patti and Melazzo 256 1. Tyndaris 261 2. From Termini to Leonforte 263 30. Messina 264 1, Excursions from Messina. Faro 269 31. From Messina to Catania 270 a. Railway via Taormina, Giarre and Aci-Reale . . 270 b. By Taormina, Piedimonte and Adernd .... 276 32. Catania 278 33. Mount JEtna 282 34. From Catania to Syracuse by Lentini 288 35. Syracuse and the Environs . 290 36. Excursion to Malta .... - 302 37. The Lipari Islands 305 X CONTENTS. Route Page 38. Sardinia 309 Cagliari. Pula. Iglesias 313. From Cagliari to Sassari . 316 Sassari. Porto Torres 319 From Cagliari to Nuoro, with excursions into the Mountains of La Barbagia 320 39. Excursion to Athens 322 From Messina to the Piraeus 323 From Brindisi to the Piraeus by Corfu and the Isthmus of Corinth 325 Excursions from Athens. Eleusis. Cephissia. Penteli. Phyle. Kaessarani. Piraeus 356 * Maps and Plans. 1. Map of Italy, facing title-page. 2. Plan of Naples, between pp. 26 and 27. 3. Map of the Environs of Naples, between pp. 86 and 87. 4. Plan of Pompeii, between pp. 112 and 113. 5. Map of Sicily, at the end of the book. 6. Plan of Palermo, between pp. 204 and 205. 7. Plan of Girgenti, between pp. 236 and 237. 8. Plan of Messina, between pp. 264 and 265. 9. Map of iEtna, between pp. 282 and 283. 10. Plan of Syracuse and Environs, between pp. 290 and 291. 11. Map of Sardinia, between pp. 308 and 309. 12. Map of the Environs of Athens, between pp. 324 and 325. 13. Plan of Athens, between pp. 328 and 329. Abbreviations. N. S. E. W. = north, northern, northwards — south etc. — east etc. — west etc. M. = Engl. mile. R. = bedroom. B. = breakfast. D. = dinner. W. = wine. S. = supper. L. = light. A. = attendance. r. = right. 1. = left. hr. = hour. min. = minute. Asterisks are employed to denote objects especially worthy of the traveller’s attention. INTRODUCTION. “Thou art the garden of the world, the Iiome Of all Art yields, and Nature can decree ^ Even in thy desert, what is like to thee? Thy very weeds are beautiful, thy waste More rich than other climes’ fertility. Thy wreck a glory, and thy ruin graced With an immaculate charm which cannot be defaced.” Byron. From the earliest ages clown to the present time Italy has ever exercised a powerful influence on the denizens of more nor- thern lands, and a journey thither has often been the fondly cherished wish of many an aspiring traveller. At the present day this wish may be gratified with comparative facility. Northern Italy is now connected by a direct ^‘iron route” with the southern portion of the peninsula, as far as Naples and Brindisi, and the approaching completion of the great network of railways will soon enable the traveller to penetrate into the interior of provinces hitherto untrodden by the ordinary tourist. Prior to 1860 the peninsula possessed but few railways, and these of insignificant extent, and exclusively of local importance. Rapidity of locomo- tion is not, however, the sole advantage which has been attained since that period. A single monetary system has superseded the numerous and perplexing varieties of coinage formerly in use ; the annoyances inseparable from passports and custom-houses , with which the traveller was assailed at every frontier, and even in many an insignificant town, have been greatly mitigated; and energetic measures have been adopted in order to put an end to the extortions of vetturini, facchini, and other members of this irritating class. Whilst those in search of adventure and excite- ment will miss many of the characteristic elements of former Italian travel, those who desire the more rational enjoyments de- rived from scenery, art or science will not fail to rejoice in tlie altered state of the country. I. Travelling Expenses. Monetary System. The cost of a tour in Italy depends of course on the travel- ler’s resources and habits. Generally it may be stated that the expenses need not exceed those incurred in the more frequented parts of the continent. The average expenditure of a single tra- veller may be estimated at 25 1. (francs) per diem, or about half that sum when a prolonged stay is made at one place. Travellers acquainted with the lajiguage and habits of the country may sue- Xll MONEY. ceed ill reducing their expenses to still narrower limits. I'ersons travelling as members of a party may effect a considerable saving. Where ladies are of the party the expenses are always unavoidably greater; not merely because the better hotels, and the more com- fortable modes of locomotion are selected, but because the Italians regard the traveller in this case as wealthier, and therefore a more fitting object for extortion. In the Kingdom of Italy the French monetary system is now universal. The franc (lira or franco) contains 100 centesimi. 1 1. 25 c. = 1 s. = 10 silbergroschen = 35 German kreuzer = 50 Austrian kreuzer. The silver coins in common circulation are Italian pieces of 1 and 21., and Italian or French 5 1. pieces: gold coins of the Italian or French currency of 10 and 20 1. are the commonest (those of 5 and 40 1. rare). Since the war of 1866 a paper-currency, at a compulsory rate of exchange, has been introduced , in consequence of which the valuable metals have entirely disappeared from ordinary circulation. Copper and banknotes down to 2 1. are almost exclusively employed. The change for gold or silver should always be given in silver; and paper should be declined, unless 6—7 per cent in excess of its nominal value be proffered, a premium which the money-changers generally give. In the same way paper may be exchanged for gold or sil- ver, at a loss of 8—10 per cent. Two points, however, should in the latter case be observed : (1) the notes of small amount (2 and 5 1.) should be preferred, owing to the difficulty of chan- ging those of greater value in ordinary traffic; (2) public and railway offices refuse to give change when payment is made in paper. In the latter case the precise sum should be tendered, as any amount in excess, or short of the fare is alike declined. In case of emergencies , the traveller should of course be provided with a reserve of silver. French banknotes are on a par with gold. •— States of the Church, see Part 2nd of the Handbook. In some parts of Italy the former currency is still employed in keeping accounts, and the coins themselves are occasionally seen. Thus the francesconi and crazie of Tuscany, the Roman scudi and bajocchi still used in Umbria, the piastri and grani of Naples, and the uncie and tari of Sicily. An acquaintance with these now nearly obsolete currencies is, however, not essential unless the traveller diverges from the beaten track , in which case the necessary information will be afforded by the Handbook. The traveller should before entering Italy, provide^ himself with French Gold, which he may procure in England, France or Germany on more advantageous terms than in Italy. Sovereigns (equivalent to 27 — 28 lire in paper) are received at the full value by most of the principal hotel keepers , but this is not the case in the less frequented districts. XIII II. Period and Plan of Tour. Ihe season selected, and the duration of the tour must of 'Course depend on the traveller himself. Suffice it to remark that the colder months are those usually preferred. The ma- .jority of travellers bound for the South cross the Alps in Sep- tember and October, and arrive in Rome about the beginnin^g of November. Rome is the favourite winter-residence of strangers until the Carnival, but at the commencement of Lent the city is deserted by many for the gayer scenes of Naples. At Easter it is again inundated by a vast concourse of visitors , who flock thither in order to witness the sumptuous ecclesiastical pagean- try of the ^^Holy Week"', and depart as soon as their curio- sity has been gratified. Some then proceed to Naples, Florence or other parts of Italy; the majority, however, prepare to quit the country before the commencement of summer. In this vast and most notorious districts are the frontier range of mountains be- tween the Neapolitan provinces and the present States of the Church , the mountains of Campania and the whole of Calabria. Sicily has also of late years been much infested by brigands, •especially the provinces of Palermo and Girgenti; but even in the most dangerous localities those who adopt the ordinary precau- tions may travel with tolerable safety. Weapons cannot legally be carried without a licence. For the ordinary traveller they are a mere burden, and in case of a rencontre with brigands only serve greatly to increase the danger. XVJ MENDICITY. Mendicity, countenanced and encouraged according to the for- mer system of Italian politics , still continues to be one of those- national nuisances to which the traveller must habituate himself. Begging in Italy is rather a trade than a genuine demand for sympathy. The best mode of liberation is to bestow a small don- ation, a supply of the smallest coin of the realm being provided for the purpose. A beggar, who in return for a donation of 2 c. thanked the donor with the usual benedictions , was on another occasion presented with 50 c., an act of liberality, which, instead of being gratefully accepted, only called forth the remark in a. half-offended tone: ^‘ma signore e molto poco!” VI. Traffic. Travelling in Italy differs essentially in many respects from that in France, Germany, Switzerland etc., and experience acquired in these countries here avails comparatively little. An acquaintance- with the language will prove the best aid in supplying the de- ficiency. The traveller is regarded by landlords, waiters, drivers, por- ters, and others of the same class, as their natural and legitimate prey. Deception and imposition are regarded as very venial of- fences by Italians of the lower class, who view a successful attempt, as a proof of superior sagacity. The traveller, therefore, who- submits complacently to extortion is regarded with less respect than he who stoutly resists the barefaced attempt upon his credu- lity. Among the Swiss Mountains the judicious traveller knows well when to make the tender of his cigar-case or spirit-flask; in. this country such amiable manifestations are only calculated to* awaken a further spirit of cupidity and discontent. On the principal routes, and especially in Naples, the insolence- of this mercenary fraternity has attained to such an unexampled pitch , that the doubt not unfrequently presents itself to the tra- veller’s mind whether such a thing as honesty is known in Italy. A more intimate acquaintance with the people and their habits Avill, however, satisfy him that his misgivings apply to the above classes- only, and not to the community generally. In Italy the highly pernicious custom of demanding conside- rably more than will ultimately be accepted is universal; but a. knowledge of the custom, as it is based entirely upon the presumed ignorance of one of the contracting parties, tends greatly to miti- gate the evil. Where tariffs and fixed charges exist, they should be carefully consulted. In other cases in which an average price is established by custom , the traveller should make a precise bargain with respect to the service to be rendered , and never rely oii the equity of the other party. Those individuals who appeal to the generosity of the stranger, TRAFFIC. XVII or to their own honesty, or who, as rarely happens, are offended by the traveller’s manifestation of distrust, may w^ell be answered in the wwds of the proverb : “paRi chiari, amicizia lunga’\ In the following pages the prices, even of insignificant objects, are stated with all possible accuracy; and although liable to constant fluctuations , they will at least often prove a safeguard against gross extortions. The Editor ventures to offer the homely hint, that the equanimity of the traveller’s own temper will greatly assist him if involved in a dispute or bargain , and no attention whatever should be paid to vehement gesticulations or an offensive demeanour. The slighter his knowledge of the Italian language is, the more careful should he be not to involve himself in a war of words, in which he must necessarily be at great disadvantage. It need hardly be observed that the representations of drivers, guides etc. , with w^hom even the inhabitants of the place often appear to act in concert, are unworthy of the slightest reliance. Thus in Naples the charge for a single drive is 1/2 the driver would find no difficulty in summoning 20 individuals ready to corroborate his assertion that the proper fare is 5 1. In such cases the traveller may generally implicitly rely on the data in the handbook. Where farther information is required, it should be sought from fellow-travellers, gensdarmes, respectably dressed per- sons present , occasionally from landlords , but seldom or never from waiters. Caution is everywhere desirable in Italy; but, if exaggerated, it may be construed as the result of fear or w^eakness on the part of the traveller, whose best safeguard is often his own self- confidence ; and it must be admitted, that, the preliminaries once adjusted, the trustworthiness exhibited by members of the frater- nity in question is often greater than at first anticipated. An abundant supply of copper coins should always be at the traveller’s command in a country where donations trifling, but very frequent are everywhere expected. Drivers, guides, porters, onkey-attendants etc. invariably expect, and often demand as their right, in addition to the hire agreed on, a gratuity (huona mano, mancia^ da here, hottigUa, caffe, fumata), varying according to cir- cumstances from 2 — 3 sous to a franc or more. The traveller need feel no embarrassment in limiting his donations to the smallest possible sums. Liberality is often a fruitful source of future an- noyance and embarrassment. Half-a-franc bestowed when two sous would have sufficed may be fraught with disagreeable results to the injudicious traveller; the fact speedily becomes known, and other applicants make their appearance, whose demands it becomes utterly impossible to satisfy. It may be laid down as a rule, that the exercise of a certain degree of parsimony, however repugnant to the feelings of the traveller, will tend essentially to promote his comfort and enjoyment. Baedeker. Italy III. 2nd Edition. b XVIII LOCOMOTION. The denieaiiour of the stranger towards tlie natives must be somewhat modified in accordance with the various parts of the country through which he travels. The Italians of the north re- semble the inhabitants of the south of rrance, and those of Italian Switzerland. The character of the Tuscans is more effeminate, their language and manners more refined. The bearing of the Ho- man is grave and proud. With all of these, however, the stranger will find no difficulty in associating; and acts of civility or kind- ness will not be misplaced, even when conferred on persons of the lower ranks. With the class of Neapolitans with whom the traveller generally comes in contact the case is entirely different. Dishonest and perfidious to an almost incredible extent , cringing and obsequious, they seem to conspire to embitter the traveller’s enjoyment of their delightful country. It is to be hoped that a better era is dawning under the present regime , and that the ^.policy’^ of honesty will at length begin to penetrate the Italian mind. VII. Locomotion. Railways. With regard to the rapid advance of this modern essential of civilisation the remarks already made (p. XI) may suffice. — It may be added that the greatest speed attained by the trains is extremely moderate. Porters who convey luggage to and from the carriages are suf- ficiently rewarded with a few sous, where there is no fixed tariff. It is a wise, and often necessary precaution (see p. XII) to be provided with the exact fare before taking tickets. The most trustworthy information respecting hours of starting, fares etc. is afforded by the ^^Guida-orario iifdciale di tutte le strade ferrate d^Italkv^ (see p. VI), wdth which tlm traveller should not fail to provide himself. The local time-tables of the Tuscan, Ro- man, and Neapolitan lines will also be found useful, and may be procured at the railway-stations for a few sous. Steamboats. A voyage on the Mediterranean or Adriatic is almost inseparably connected with a tour in Italy and Sicily, irre- spective of the fact that the latter can be reached by water only. If the vessel plies near the coast, the voyage is often extreme- ly entertaining; and if the open sea is traversed, the magnificent Italian sunsets , which light up the deep blue water with their crimson rays, present a scene not easily forgotten. Tickets should be purchased by the traveller in person at the oflice of the company. The ticket is furnished with the purchaser’s name and destination, the name of the vessel, and the hour of departure. Fares, duration of voyage etc. are stated in each in- stance in the following pages. Family-tickets for the first or second class , for not fewer than three persons , are issued by all the companies at a reduction of 20 per cent on the fare, but not on the cost of food. A child of 2 — 10 years pays half-fare, but in LOCOMOTION. XIX this case must share the berth of its .attendant. Two children are entitled to a berth for themselves. The tickets of the Messageries Imperiales are available for four months, and the voyage may be broken at the passenger’s discretion. It may here again be remarked that the rival French companies Fraissinet and Valery reduce their fares from 20 to 30 per cent according to circum- stances. At the same time it should be borne in mind that these Tessels usually stop to discharge their cargoes during the day, and proceed on their voyage at night. The saloons and berths of the first class are comfortably and elegantly fitted up, those of the second tolerably. Pas- sengers of the second class have free access , like those of the first, to every part of the deck. Luggage. First-class passengers are allowed 100 kilogr. (= 2 cwt.), second class 60 kilogr. (= 135 lbs.), but articles not intended for the passenger’s private use are prohibited. Food of good quality and ample quantity is included in the first and second-class fares (except in the vessels of the Florio Co.). The difference between that provided for first and for second-class passengers is inconsiderable. Dejeuner a la fourchette is served at 10, consisting of 3 — 4 courses, tolerable table wine ad libitum, and a cup of coffee. Dinner is a similar repast between 5 and 6 o’clock. At 7 p. m. tea is served in the first, but not in the second class. Passengers who are too ill to partake of these repasts are furnished with lemonade etc. gratuitously. Refreshments may of course be procured at other hours on payment. Fees. The steward expects 1 1. for a voyage of 12 — 24 hrs., more if the passenger has made unusual demands upon his time or patience. Embarcation. Passengers should be on board an hour be- fore the advertised time of starting. The charges for conveyance to the steamboat (usually 1 1. for each pers. with luggage) are fixed by tariff at all the sea-ports, and will be found in the Hand- book. Passengers should therefore avoid all discussions on the subject with the boatmen, and simply direct them to row “al Ya- ticano”, ^‘alla Bella Venetia’^, or whatever the name of the vessel may be. En route, the boatman generally makes a demand extra- vagantly in excess of the tariff : “Signore , sono cinque lire ! ” to which the passenger may simply reply : “avanti ! ” On arriving at the vessel, payment should not be given to the boatman until the traveller with all his luggage is deposited on deck. The wild gesticulations of the boatman , who has perhaps calculated upon the credulity of his passenger, but receives no more than his due (which is ample remuneration), may be enjoyed with malignant sere- nity from the deck, as on that “terra sacra” disputes are strictly prohibited. b* XX LOCOMOTION. On board the passenger gives up his ticket, receives the | number of his berth, superintends the stowing away of his lug- gage, and finally repairs to the deck to observe the progress of i the vessel as it quits the harbour, of which a fine view is gene- rally obtained. Diligences. Corrieri are the swifter conveyances which carry the mails, and accommodate two or three passengers only at high fares. IHligenze^ the ordinary stage-coaches, convey travellers with tolerable rapidity, and generally for the same fares as similar vehicles i in other parts of the continent. They are in the hands of private speculators, and where several run in competition the more expen- sive are to be preferred. When ladies are of the party the coupe (t/ 3 rd dearer) should if possible be secured. The importunities of the coachmen at the end of each stage should be disregarded. The communication between many towns is maintained by Vetturini, who convey travellers neither very comfortably nor ra- pidly, but at moderate cost. Inside places cost somewhat more than those in the cabriolet. The driver receives a trifling fee, the ostler 1 soldo ; for the removal or replacement of luggage 2 soldi. The ordinary tourist will probably rarely have occasion ! to avail himself of a mode of conveyance rapidly becoming obsolete.. The vetturini are generally respectable and trustworthy, and show no less zeal for the comfort and safety of their employers than in the care of their cattle. With three horses and a vehicle to accom- modate six passengers 35—40 M. are daily accomplished. At midday a halt of several hours is made. The vetturini also en- gage to provide the traveller with hotel accommodation , which^ when thus contracted for, is considerably less costly than when the traveller caters for himself. In this case it is advisable to draw up a carefully w'orded contract, to which the vetturino af- fixes his signature or mark. This should also be made to include the gratuity (tutto compreso) ; and, if satisfaction is given, an ad- ditional fee may be bestow^ed at the termination of the journey. The entire vehicle, or the interior only, may be engaged. It should be distinctly arranged before starting, where the night is to be passed, wdiere breakfast and dinner taken. The agreement having been concluded , the vetturino gives the traveller a small sum as earnest-money (caparra) , by which both parties are bound. The following formula will serve as a basis for a contract of this nature. Contralto tra il Sgr. N. N. e il Vetturino N. N. Jo aottoscritto Vetturino nCohhligo , di condurre il Sgre. N. N. e sua fa- miglia etc. in una huona carrozza con tre etc. huoni cavalli., ed incaricare la loro roba di viaggio coni ben servata , che non prenda ne.^.mn danno.^ e non si perda niente da ... . per . ... a .... in ... . giorni., cio^ a dire il primo giorno a .... il secondo a etc. ed arrivare sempre a buon ora., sotto le seguenti condizioni : La vettura tulta intiera (non eccettuato il gabrioletto , or if the traveller engages the interior only, eccettuato il g.), appartiene per questo viaggio at LOCOMOTION. XXI ^iii Sgri. Passeggieri. Al vetturino non e permes&o ^ di prendere un altrch 'iaggiattore, sotto qualunque nome sia. GU passeggier i ricevono ogni giorni di viaggio salvo quello delV arrivo il conto del vetturino in un albergo di prinia qualitd la cena di (sei) piatti e . . stanze separate hen ammogliate e pulite con .... letti netti e huoni. II sopradetto Signore spende al sopradetto vetturino la somma di ... . \enza altera ohhligazione di pagare mancia, pedaggio, harriera, cavalli] ‘hovi\ )oste 0 altra cosa sia. II pagamento detto sara pagato nelle proprie mani lei medesimo vetturino .... dopo Varrivo a ... . La partenza da .... e fissata per il ... . del mese .... In caso die il vetturino non tenga un punto del contralto., il viaggiatore ion e tenuto di pagare un quattrino. Late ... . Signature of the vetturino, or . . . . per non super e scrivere ece la croce. A single traveller may also bargain with a vetturino for one seat, he charge for which varies. The back-seats are ‘‘i primi posti”, vhich are generally secured by the first comers, who are first on suited with regard to the arrangement of the journey. For a ingle traveller a written contract is hardly necessary. A previous inderstanding should, however, be made with regard to the gra-^ uity ; and a separate room (stanza separata) at the inns should he tipulated for, otherwise the traveller will run the risk of being ompelled to share the apartment of his travelling companions. Besides the above - mentioned conveyances , carriages may be ired everywhere (with one horse about 65 c. per Engl. M.). Pedes trianism. An Italian never w^alks if he can possibly drive ; 3 him it is an inexplicable mystery how walking can afford -leasure. The remark has been frequently made to the Editor: lei € signore e va a piedi?!’’ In the more frequented districts, uch as the vicinity of Rome , the inhabitants are accustomed to- his mania of strangers , who may wander in the Campagna, and mong the Sabine and Alban Mts. without exciting much sur- rise. Excursions on foot in other parts of Italy also possess- heir peculiar attractions, and among other advantages that of pro- uring for the pedestrian the enviable reputation of being aipittore, r needy individual from whom little is to be extorted. Prolonged walking-tours , such as are undertaken in more- northern climates, and fatiguing excursions will be found w'holly nsuitable to the Italian climate. Cool and clear weather should possible be selected, and the sirocco carefully avoided. The. eight of summer is totally adverse to tours of this kind. A /i0rs6 (cavallo) or donkey (sommaro, Neapol. ciucio ; sicil. vet- ara , applied to both animals) , between which the difference of j xpense is inconsiderable, often affords a pleasant and inexpensive I^Lode of locomotion, especially in mountainous districts, where the [r-ttendant (pedone) also acts as a servant for the time being. A I revious bargain should be made, tutto compreso, a gratuity being Ided if the traveller is satisfied. XXII VIII. Hotels. The idea of cleanliness in Italy is in arrear of the age; the hrilliancy of the southern climate perhaps in the opinion of the natives neutralizes dirt. The traveller will not, however, suffer much annoyance in this respect in hotels and lodgings of the best class. Those who quit the beaten track, on the other hand must be prepared for privations. In the villages the pig rani- male nero) appears as a domestic animal, and a privileged in- mate of the houses, to which the poultry also have free access. Iron bedsteads should if possible be selected, as affording lesf^ accommodation to the active class so hostile to repose. Insect- powder (polvere di Persia, or Keating’s) or camphor somewhat re- pels their advances. The zanzare, or gnats, are a source of grea' -annoyance, and often suffering, during the autumn months. Win- dows should always be carefully closed before a light is introduced into the room. Light muslin curtains (zanzieri) round the beds, masks for the face, and gloves are employed to ward off the attacks of these pertinacious intruders. In all the more frequented places good hotels of the first das:- are always to be found, the landlords of which are frequently Swise and German. Rooms 21/2—5 1., bougie 75 c.— 1 1., attendance 1 1.. table d'hote 41., and so on. Families, for whose reception the hotels are often specially fitted up, should make an agreement — f with the landlord with regard to pension (8 — 10 1. each). Stran- gers are expected to dine at the table d’h6te, otherwise the price ■of the room is raised, or the inmate is given to understand thaij it is “wanted”. French spoken everywhere. Cuisine a mixture o French and Italian. The second-class inns are thoroughly Italian, rarely very clear or comfortable; charges about one-half the above; no table d'hote but a trattoria will generally be found connected with tlie house] ^ where refreshments a la carte may be procured at any hour. Thesti ^-establishments will often be found convenient and economical b-^ the voyageur en garden, but are of course rarely visited by ladiesj In hotels in the Italian style, especially in the smaller townsj it is advisable to institute enquiries as to charges beforehand. F, exorbitant demands be made, they may be generally reduced withoui -difficulty to reasonable limits. An extortionate bill may even bi reduced althougli no previous agreement has been made, but thi is never effected without long and vehement discussions. The best hotels have fixed charges. Attendance, exclusive o boots and commissionaire , is charged in the bill. This is no tlie case in the smaller inns, where 1 1. per diem is usual! divided between the waiter and the faccliino , or less for a pro longed stay. Copper coins arc never despised by such recipients Hotels (iarnis are mucli frequented by those whose stay ex tends to 10—14 days and upwards, and the inmates enjoy greate RESTAURANTS. XXIIT: juiet and independence than at a hotel. The charges are moreover i'.onsiderahly more moderate. Attendance about 1/2 1- diem. ;i Lodgings of various degrees of comfort and accommodation Inay also be procured for a prolonged residence. Here, likewise, i distinct agreement respecting the rent should be made before- i jiand. Where a whole suite of apartments is hired , a written ■‘ontract should be drawn up with the aid of some one acquainted ifvith the language and customs of the place (e. g. a banker), '^or single travellers a verbal agreement with regard to attendance, j'inen, stoves and carpets in Avinter, a receptacle for coal etc.,, vill generally suffice. A few hints may be here added for the benefit of the less experienced : ^ If a prolonged stay is made at a hotel the bill should be demanded j 'very three or four days , by which means errors , whether accidental or I ’lesigned, are more easily detected. When the traveller contemplates de- parting at an early hour in the morning , the bill should be obtained on , he previous evening , but not paid until the moment for starting hasr ar- •ived. It is a favourite practice to withhold the bill till the last moment, ‘ vhen the hurry and confusion render overcharges less liable to discove5^ The mental arithmetic of waiters is apt to be exceedingly faulty, hough rarely in favour of the traveller. A written enumeration of he items charged for should therefore be required, and accounts rejected n vv^hich, as not unfrequently happens, “colazione^ pranzo^ vino etc.” figure f n the aggregate. { Information obtained from waiters , and others of a similar class .•an never be implicitly relied upon. Enquiries should be -addressed to the ‘ andlords and even their statements received with considerable caution. IX. Restaurants and Cafes. Restaurants (trattorie) are chiefly frequented by Italians, I ind travellers unaccompanied by ladies. Dinner may be obtained ji la carte at any hour between 12 and 7 or 8 p. m. , for IY 2 * — 3 1. The w^aiters expect a gratuity of 2 — 4 soldi. The diner ' vho desires to confine his expenses within reasonable limits should ! efrain from ordering dishes not comprised in the bill of fare. The following list comprises most of the commoner Ita- ian dishes : ^Zuppa, soup. [Consume, broth or bouillon. \^ante, or minestra, soup with ! green vegetables and bread. rnocchi, small puddings. ! ifso con piselli, rice-soup with j peas. ! 'iisotto, a species of rice pud- ' ding (rich). Maccaronialhurro, with butter; al i pomidoro, with paradiseapples. ■Manzo, boiled beef. I ^rilli, fried meat. ’ \rrosti, roasted meat. Bistecca, beefsteak. Coscietto, loin. Arrosto di vitello, roast-veal. Testa di vitello, calf’s head. Fegato di vitello, calf’s liver. Braccioletta divitello, veal-cutlet. Costoletta alia minuta, veal-cutlet with calf’s ears and truffles. Palate, potatoes. Quaglia, quail. Tor do, field-fare. Lodola, lark. Sfoglia, a species of sole. Principi alia tavola, hot relishes. XXIV CAKES. i^Am(//w,mushrooms(oftentoorich). Prezciutto^ ham. Salami, sausage. Polio, fowl. Pollastro, turkey. Urnidi, meat with sauce. Stufatino, ragout. Erie, vegetables. Carciofi, artichokes. Piselli, peas. Lenticchie, lentils. Cavoli fiori, cauliflower. Fave, beans. Fagiuolini, French beans. Mostarda, simple mustard. Senape, hot mustard. ^ Ostriche, oysters (good in winter only). Giardinetto, fruit-desert. Crostata di frutti, fruit-tart. Crostata di pasta sfogla, a spe cies of pastry. Fragole, strawberries. Pera, pear. Persiche, peaches. Uva, bunch of grapes. Limone, lemon. Portogallo, orange. Finocchio, root of fennel. Pane francese, bread made witl yeast (the Italian is mad( without). Formaggio, cheese. Vino nero, red wine; bianco white ; asciutto , dry ; dolce sweet; nostrale, table-wine Cafes are frequented for breakfast and lunch, and in the evening by numerous consumers of ices. Cafe noir (caffe nero, is usually drunk (10 — 20 c. per cup). Caffe latte is coffee mixed with milk before served (20 c.); or caffe e latte, i. e. with the milk served separately, may be preferred (30—40 c.). Mischio is a mixture of coffee and chocolate (15 — 20 c.), considered whole some and nutritious. The usual viands for lunch are ham, sau- sages, cutlets and eggs (nova da here, soft; toste, hard; uova al piatto, fried). Ices (gelato) of every possible variety are supplied at the cafes (30 — 90 c. per portion); a half portion (mezza) may alway: be ordered. Granita, or half-frozen ice fi^monata, of lemons; aran- ciata of oranges), is especially in vogue in the forenoon. The waiter (bottega) expects a sou or more, according to the amount of the payment ; he occasionally makes mistakes in changing money if not narrowly watched. The principal Parisian newspapers are to be found at all the larger cafes, English rarely. Valets de Place (servitori di piazza) may be hired at 5 1. per diem, the employer previously distinctly specifying the services to be rendered. They are generally trustworthy and respectable, but implicit reliance should not be placed on their statements respecting the places most worthy of a visit, which the traveller should ascertain from the guide-book or other source. Their ser- vices may always be dispensed with, unless time is very limited Travellers are cautioned against employing the sensali, or commis- sionaires of an inferior class , who pester the stranger with offers of every description. Contracts with vetturini, and similar ne- gociations should never be concluded through such a medium, or SHOPS. XXV indeed any other. Interventions of this description invariably tend to increase prices, and are often productive of still more serious annoyances. This remark applies especially tovillages and small towns, 'sa nether on or out of the regular track. X. Churches, Theatres, Shops etc. Churches are open till noon, and usually again from 4 to 7 p. m. Visitors may inspect the works of art even during the hours of divine service, provided they move about noiselessly, and keep aloof from the altar where the clergy are officiating. The verger (sagrestano^ or nonzolo) receives a fee of 1/2 1- or upwards, if his services are required. Theatres. The representations in the large theatres begin at 8, and terminate at midnight or later. Here operas and ballets are exclusively performed; the first act of an opera is usually succeeded by a ballet of 3 or more acts. Verdi is the most po- pular composer. The pit (platea) is the usual resort of the men. A box (palco) must always be secured in advance. — A visit to the smaller theatres, where dramas and comedies are acted, is especially recommended for the sal^e of habituating the ear to the language. Representations in summer take place in the open air, in which case smoking is allowed. — The theatre is the usual evening-resort of the Italians, by whom during the performance of the music profound silence is never observed. Shops rarely have fixed prices. As a rule two-thirds or three- quarters of the price demanded should be offered. The same rule applies to artizans, drivers and others. “lYon volete?^ (then you will not?) is a remark which generally has the effect of bringing the matter to a speedy adjustment. Purchases should never be made by the traveller when accompanied by a valet-de-place. These individuals, by tacit agreement, receive at least 10 per cent of the purchase-money, which naturally comes out of the pocket of the purchaser. This system of extortion is carried so far that, when a member of the above class observes a stranger enter a shop, he presents himself at the door, and afterwards claims his per- centage under the pretext that by his recommendation the pur- chase has been made. In such cases it is by no means super- fluous to call the attention of the shopkeeper to the imposition f“non conosco quest" uomo'^). Cigars in Italy (Sicily excepted) and the States of the Church are a monopoly of Government, and bad; those under 3 — 4 sol. scarcely smokable. XI. Postal Arrangements. The address of letters (whether poste restante or to the tra- veller’s hotel) should , as a rule , be in the Italian or French XXVI CLIMATE. language. Postage-stamps are sold at all the tobacco-shops. Let- ters to England cost 60 c., France 40 c., Germany 60 c., Switzer- land 30 c., Belgium 40 c., Holland (via France) 70 c., Denmark 85 c., Norway and Sweden 1 1., Russia 1 1. Letters by town-post 5 c. ; throughout the kingdom of Italy 20 c. prepaid, 30 c. unpaid. Letters to Rome must be prepaid as far as the frontier (20 c.), also vice versa. In the larger towns the post-office is open daily from 9 a. m. to 10 p. m. (also on Sundays and holidays). XII. Calculation of Time. The old Italian reckoning from 1 to 24 o’clock is now disused, except by the lower classes, especially in Sicily. Ave Maria (i. e. sunset) = 24. The hours are altered every fortnight, being regu- lated by the sunset. The ordinary reckoning of other nations is termed ora francese. The traveller will find little difficulty in employing the Italian reckoning when he has occasion to do so. XlII. Climate. Mode of Life. Travellers from the north must in some degree alter their mode of living whilst in Italy , without however implicitly adop- ting the Italian style. Strangers generally become unusually susceptible to cold in Italy, and therefore should not omit to be Avell supplied with warm clothing for the winter. Carpets and stoves, to the comforts of w’hich the Italians generally appear indifferent, are indispensable in winter. A southern aspect is an absolute essential for the delicate, and highly desirable for the robust. Colds are most easily caught after sunset and in rainy w’eather. — Even in summer it is a wise precaution not to w’ear too light clothing. Flannel is strongly recommended. Exposure to the summer-sun should as much as possible be avoided. According to a Roman proverb, dogs and foreigners ringlesi) alone walk in the sun, Christians in the shade. Um- brellas , and spectacles of coloured glass (grey, concave glasses to protect the whole eye are best) may be used with advantage when a walk in the sun is unavoidable. Repose during the hot- test hours is advisable , a siesta of moderate length refreshing, Windows should be closed at night. English and German medical men are to be met with in the larger cities. The Italian therapeutic art does not enjoy a very high reputation in the rest of Europe. German and English chemists, where available , are recommended in preference to the Italian, It may, however, be a wise discretion, in the case of maladies arising from local causes, to employ native skill. 1. From Rome to Naples. Railway by Velletri, San Germano and Capua. Two main roads (sea-route R. 3) lead from Rome to Naples : one along tlie coast by Terracina (R. 2), the ancient Via Appia; the other through the valley of the Sacco and Garigliano, the Via Latina; both uniting near Capua. The Railway (finest views generally to the L), completed in 1^2 (140 M. in length), is now the most important means of communication between Central and Southern Italy. Time of journey 9 hrs. \ fares by the direct trains : 1st cl. 34 1. 75 c., 2nd cl. 26 1.; by the indirect trains: 1st cl. 31 1. 70 c. , 2nd cl. 23 1. 85 c. , 3rd cl.’ 15 1. 16 c. There are two direct-* trains in each direction between Rome and Naples daily, which make short stoppages at the principal stations only. A slow train also leaves Rome for the frontier stat. Ceprano (p. 3), a second for Velletri; two from Naples for the frontier stat. Isoletta (p. 4), and four others for Capua. Travellers who desire to break their journey may avail themselves of these trains, which are intended principally for local traffic. The railway-station at Rome is confined. The train for Naples is ge- nerally crowded. Booking the luggage is a tedious process. It is examined by the Custom-house officers at the station at Naples. Those who have luggage should be at the station iji* hr. before the train starts , and will do well to secure the services of a railway-porter with a few bajocchi. Pass- ports, furnished with the necessary visa and that of the papal police (51.), are shown on entering the waiting-room , or given up in return for a rin~ contro di passaporto. They are restored to their owners at the frontier stat. Ceprano , where they are again examined (gratis) as the papal dominions are quitted. On entering the Italian states at stat. Isoletta, passengers are merely asked to show their passports. On leaving the city, the train passes S. Maria Maggiore and diverges from the Civita Vecchia line; 1. the Porta S. Lorenzo, r. the arches of the Acqua Felice and the ruined Aqua Marcia, beyond them the tombs of the Via Appia. The Sabine and Alban mountains rise on the 1. ; at the base of the latter Frascati. Stat. Ciampino ^ where the branch line to Frascati diverges to the 1., whilst the Southern line approaches the Alban Mountains. Stat. Marino lies on a chain of hills to the 1.; above it, on the mountain , Rocca di Papa , to the r. of which is the Monte Cavo with the white walls of the monastery. A cutting is now passed through; then to the 1. on an olive -planted eminence, Castel Gandolfo becomes visible ; immediately afterwards , Albano and Ariccia are seen in the distance to the 1. , connected by a via- Baedeker. Italy III. 2d. Edition. [ 2 Route I . ANAGM. From Home duct, 400 ft. in length; stat. La Cecina, in a solitary and un- attractive situation, is common to both, (Excursion to the Alban Mts. see '^Central Italy’’.) To the r. a glimpse of Monte CirceLio (1660 ft.) (p. 19), rising abruptly from the sea; nearer are the Volscian Mts. Next stat. Civita Lavinia^ the ancient Lavinium ; then VelLetri, which lies on the height to the 1., whilst the line passes between the lofty summits of Monte Artemisio and Ariano (Alban Mts.) on the 1. and those of Monte Santangelo and Lupino (Volscian Mts.) on the r., and turns eastwards towards the valley by Morite Fortino, where it reaches Stat. Valmontone , a small town situated on an isolated volcanic eminence, and adorned with a handsome palace of the Doria Pamfili. The line now enters the valley of the Sacco, the ancient Trerus or Tolero , and skirts its left bank, running parallel with the Via Latina. The well-cultivated valley, enclosed on both sides by mountains upwards of 5000 ft. high, was anciently the terri- tory of the Hernici (see below). To the r. Monte Fortino, with picturesquely cultivated slopes; farther on, to the r. . on the heights, the venerable Segni (stat.), the Signia of the Romans, a fortress founded by the last Tarquin for the purpose of keeping the Volsci and Hernici in check; the huge remnants of the ancient walls and gateways still exist. On the height to the 1. farther on, 6 M. from the railway, lies Anagni (* Locanda Italia), once a flourishing town, in the middle ages frequently a papal residence (omnib. 20 baj.). Here, Sept. 7th, 1303, Pope Boniface VHI., then considerably advanced in years, was taken prisoner by the French knight Guillaume de Nogaret in concert with the Colonnas, by order of king Philip le Beau , but was set at liberty by the people three days after- wards. The * Cattedrale di S. Maria of the 11th cent, is in a good state of preservation and of a pure style; crypt and mosaic pavement by the master Cosmaz. The treasury contains among other relics vestments of Innocent HI. and Boniface VHI. Anagni is best visited from the next stat. Sgurgola, from which it is 4^2 distant. The next towns, with the imposing ruins of their ancient polygonal walls, are also situated on the hills at a considerable distance from the line. This is the territory of the Hernici, with the towns of Anagnia, Aletrium, Ferentinum and VeruLae, for a long period allied with Rome and Latium, but subjugated by the Romans after the insu-rrection of the Latins. The environs of these towns are also extremely picturesque. Longer excursions among the mountains and towards the frontier are not recommended, on account of the still unsettled state of the country. The village of Sgurgola , from which the station takes its name, lies on the hill to the r., above the Sacco; still higher is to Naples. CEPRANO. 1. Route. 3 Carpineto. Next stat. Ferentino. The town of that name lies on the hill (1360 ft.} to the 1., 3 M. from the line. Ferentino (Hotel des Etrangers) , the ancient Ferentinum , a town of the Volsci, afterwards of the Hernici, destroyed in the 2nd Punic war, subsequently a Roman colony, has a popul. of about 6000. The ancient polygonal town-wall may still be traced in almost its entire circumference; a gateway on the W. side ; especially deserves notice. The castle, whose walls now form the foundation of the episcopal palace, occupies the highest ground within the town. The cathedral is paved with remnants of an- cient marbles and mosaics. The font in the small church of S. Giovanni Evangelista is ancient. Interesting antiquities and inscriptions will also be observed in other parts of the town. Higher up among the mountains , 91/4 M. from Ferentino and about the same distance from Frosinohe (see below) and Anagni, lies the town of Alatri , the ancient Aleirium , picturesquely situated on an eminence and affording an adrnirably preserved specimen of the fortifications of an an- cient city. The * walls of the castle, constructed of huge polygonal blocks, are stilF standing entire^ the gateway attracts special attention on account of the stupendous dimensions of the stones of which it is composed. The \ town with its gates occupies the exact site of the ancient town. Below it • the direction of the walls may be traced. The town and castle were pro- vided with an aqueduct, recently discovered and about to be restored. This work testifies to the perfection which art had attained in ancient times, for the water must have been forced upwards from the valley from a depth of 330 ft.* At a distance of 3 M. is the celebrated GroUa di Collepardo., extending . upwards of 2000 ft. into the limestone rock , with beautiful stalactites. I| One mile farther, at the base of the mountain-range which bounds the papal dominions , an extensive depression of the soil is observed , II Pozzo ^ d''Antullo , ijs M. in circumf. and 200 ft. in depth , overgrown with bushes and underwood. About 6 M. from Alatri, towards the Neapolitan frontier, is situated Veroli, the ancient Verulae on a beautiful hill. A road leads thence to ^ Jsola and Sora (see p. 14). f Next stat. Frosinone. The town (Locanda de Matteis) , si- ^1 tuated on the heights , 21/2 M. from the railway , is capital of a • ^‘delegations and has a popnl. of 8000. It is identical with the ancient Volscian Frusino , conquered by the Romans B. C. 304. > , Relics of antiquity (walls , amphitheatre) are inconsiderable ; the . situation is strikingly beautiful. ft Stat. Ceccano. The village is picturesquely situated on the j mountain slope, on the r. bank of the Sacco, the valley of which I now contracts. At the base of the mourffain , to the 1. of the 1 river, once lay the ancient Fabrateria Vetus., numerous inscriptions L from which are built into the walls of the church by the bridge. 1 A road leads from Ceccano over the mountains to Piperno and : Terracina (p. 19). I Stat. Castro Pofi; then the frontier station Ceprano. (Change ! of carriages. Halt of 40 min.) Here passports are either again 4 Route I . AQUINO. From Rome examined (gratis), which usually occasions considerable confusion, or they are restored to their owners, as the case may be, in re- I turn for the rincontro di passaporto (comp. p. 1). Passengers arriving here from Naples also exhibit their passports, and smaller articles of luggage are inspected: the principal examination takes place at Rome. At a short distance from the station, which lies in a hollow, a pleasing glimpse is obtained of the valleys of the Liris and the Tolero. The town of Ceprano (Locanda Nuova) is 13/4 M. from the station. The line now crosses the Liris , which descends from the N. from the vicinity of the Lago Fucino (p. 15), forming the boun- dary of the States of the Church. After proceeding slowly for a few minutes more, the train reaches stat. Isoletta, an insignifi- cant place with a tolerable locanda, where passports are exhibited, minor articles of luggage scrutinized, and carriages changed. Halt of 15 min. In the vicinity, on the r. bank of the Liris, beyond S. Giovanni in Carico , once lay the ancient Fregellae , a Roman colony founded B. C. 328, a point of great military importance, as it commanded the passage of the river. It was destroyed by the Romans B. C. 125, in consequence of an insurrection , and I Fabrateria Nova founded in its place. A number of antiquities have been found in the Giardino Cayro , at the village of S. Giovanni in Carico, 3 M. from the station. The line now traverses the broad and fertile valley of the Liris , or Garigliano , as it is termed after its union with the Sacco. Stat. Rocca Secca. Excursion to the Valley of the Liris and Lago Fucino s. p. 13. The picturesque town on the hills to the 1. is the birthplace of Thomas Aquinas. (stat.) Aquino, the Aquinum of the ancients, also celebrated as the birthplace of the satirist Juvenal (under Domitian). The illustrious ^^doctor angelicus”, son of Count Landdulf , was born in 1224 in the neighbouring castle of Rocca Secca and educated in the monastery of Monte Casino (p. 6). The emperor Pescen- nius Niger was also a native of Aquinum. The now insignificant town is situated on a mountain stream, in a beautiful and salubrious district. At the side of the Via Latina the relics of the ancient Roman town may be distinguished : inconsiderable fragments of walls, a gateway (Porta S. Lorenzo), a theatre, remnants of temples of Ceres (S. Pietro) and Diana (S. Maria Maddalena) and a triumphal arch. Near the stream the ruins of a basilica of the 11th cent., S. Maria Libera, commonly called it Vencovado , occupying the site of an ancient temple. It consists of handsome nave and aisles, above the portal a well- preserved Madonna in mosaic. About 3 M. to the 8. of Aquino lies Pontecorvo, a small town and i)rincii)ality, formerly appertaining to Monte Casino, afterwards to the pope, io Naples. SAN GERMANO. 1. Route. 5 from whom it was taken by Napoleon I. and given to General Bernadotte, who died in 1844 as Charles XIV. John of Sweden. After the peace of 1815 Pontecorvo was restored to the pope with Benevento. Here Greek emigrants resided in the 11th and 12th centuries. An ancient castle, cathedral, bridge and hospital are still in existence. Beyond Aquino, on a bleak mountain- ridge to the 1., the celebrated monastery of Monte Casino (p. 6) becomes visible. At its base, M. from the railway (carr. ^/2 1.), is situated San Geimano, or Casino, as it is now usually termed (Villa Rapido, indifferent; *Trattoria Casino, on the way to the amphi- theatre; near it, Loc. dei Giurati , clean), on the site of the ancient Casinum. A visit to the latter, as well as to the neighbouring monastery (p. 6) may easily be accomplished within a stay of 24 hrs. (Luggage may either be forw'arded direct from Rome to Naples or left at the S. Germane stat.) An excursion to Monte Casino may be pronounced safe, if made by day- light, although the vicinity of S. Germane is occasionally infested by ban- ditti. On arriving by the train the traveller, having taken the precaution to procure some refreshment in the town, may either first explore the ruins of Casinum (for which, however, he would have time on the following day), or proceed at once to the monastery of Monte Casino hr.-, don- key lf '2 1.). The excursion should be so arranged that the traveller may return to the town a considerable time before sunset; at the same time it should be borne in mind that visitors are strictly excluded from 12 to 3. 30 o’clock. The monastery, justly noted for its hospitality, affords good quarters for the night (ladies of course are admitted to the church only), although the refreshments are sometimes of a very frugal description. No payment is demanded, but the traveller will of course give a handsome gra- tuity. (For a stay of some duration persons of moderate requirements accommodated en pension.) French and German are spoken by some of the brothers. Early on the morning of Sundays and holidays the church and courts of the monastery are crowded with country-people from the neighbouring districts , whose characteristic physiognomies and costumes will be scanned with interest by the traveller. Those who return to S. Ger- mane to pass the night should allow 5 hrs. for the whole excursion. San Germano, picturesquely situated in the plain on the small river Rapido (Lat. Vinius) and commanded by a ruined castle, occupies nearly the same site as the ancient Casinum, colonized by the Romans B. C. ol2 and afterwards a flourishing provincial town. On its ruins sprung up San Germano during the middle ages. Pillars of great antiquity are still to be seen in the churches. Here , too , courts have been held by popes and em- perors. Here in 1230 Gregory IX. allied himself with Frederick II. The foggy climate of this locality is alluded to by the ancients. After traversing the somewhat uninteresting towui , the traveller enters to the 1. the road which approaches from the N. and coincides with the Via Latina. About V 2 farther, to the r. are situated the colossal remains of an * Amphitheatre , which, according to an inscription preserved at Monte Casino, was erected at her own expense by Ummidia Quadratilla, mentioned by Pliny in his letters (VH, 24) as a lady of great wealth , who up to a very advanced age was an ardent admirer of theatrical repre- () Route I . MONTE CASINO. From Rome sentations ('’Ummidia 0. F. Quadratilla amphitheatrurn et templum Casinatibus sua pecunia fecit-‘j. Farther on and in a higher si- tuation stands a massive square monument, with 4 niches and surmounted by a dome, now' converted into the church * del Crocefisso (3—4 soldi to the custodian). On the opposite bank of the Rapido lay the villa of M. Terentius Varro, where, as we are informed by Cicero (Phil. II. 40), M. Antony afterwards in- dulged in his wild orgies. The path leading back to the town from Crocefisso is probably the ancient Via Latina; traces of the former pavement are occasionally observed. From this path, by keeping to the high ground to the left, the traveller may pro- ceed to M. Casino without returning to the town. The monastery of *Monte Casino, situated on a lofty mountain in the rear of the town, is reached in I72 hr. The path, which cannot be mistaken, affords exquisite views of the valley of the Garigliano and the surrounding mountains. The monastery was founded by St. Benedict (see below) in 529, on the site of an ancient temple of Apollo, to which Dante alludes (Parad. XXII. 37), and from its magnificent situation alone would be entitled to a visit were there no other inducements to the enlightened tra- veller. Immediately on arriving, those who desire to remain for the night should apply to the padre forestieraio for permission (p. 5). Letters of introduction should if possible be procured previously. The extensive edifice , the interior of which resembles a castle rather than a. cloister, is entered by a low passage through the rock, where St. Benedict is said to have had his cell. Several courts are connected by arcades. The central one has a fountain of very good water, adorned with statues of St. Benedict and his sister St. Scholastica. On a square space higher up , enclosed by columns from the ancient temple of Apollo , stands the Church, erected in 1727 to replace the ancient and dilapidated edifice founded by St. Benedict. The fortunes of the abbey are recorded in Latin above the entrance of the hall. The principal door of the church is of bronze and is inscribed with a list, inlaid in silver, of all the possessions of the abbey in 1066. It was executed at Constantinople by order of the abbot Desiderius , afterwards Pope Victor III. The interior is richly de- corated with marble , mosaics and paintings. On either side of the high altar is a mausoleum ; one to the memory of Pietro di Medici (p. ), who was drowned in the Garigliano in 1503, executed by Francesco Sangallo by order of Clement VII. ; the other that of Guidone Fieramosca , last prince of Mignano. Beneath the high altar with its rich marble decorations , re- pose the remains of St. Benedict and his sister St. Scholastica. The sub- terranean chapel contains paintings by Marco da Siena and Mazzaroppi. The choir -stalls are adorned with admirable carving, and the chapels ad- joining the altar with costly mosaics. Above the doors and on the ceiling are frescoes by Luca Oiordano (1677), representing the miracles of St. Bene- dict and the foundation of the church. The organ is one of the finest in Italy. In the refectory the “Miracle of the loaves” by Bassano. At a very early period the Library was celebrated for its MSS. , the labours of the brethren. To the abbot Desiderius of the 11th cent, we are probably indebted for the preservation of Varro and perhaps of other authors. The handsome saloon at present contains a collection of about 10,()(X) vols., among which are numerous rare editions published during the to Naples. MONTE CASINO. 1. Route. 7 infancy of the printing art. The MSS. and documents are preserved in the archives, in the passage leading to which a number of inscriptions are built into the wall, most of them rescued from the ruins of the ancient Casinum. Among the MSS. are : the commentary of Origen on the Epistle to the Ro- mans, translated by Rufus, dating from the 6th cent. ; Dante with marginal notes, of the 14th cent, (the archives contain : n interesting portrait of the poet) ; the vision of the monk Alberic , which is said to have suggested the first idea on which Dante based his work ; various classical authors , the original MSS. of Leo of Ostia and Riccardo di San Germano. The "^Archives comprise a still rarer collection : about 800 documents of emperors , kings, dukes etc., the complete series of papal bulls which concern Monte Casino, commencing with the 11th cent. , many of them with admirable seals and impressions. Monte Casino has ever been conspicuous amongst the mona- steries of Christendom for the unfailing discharge of its higher duties. Hosts of travellers have partaken of the hospitality of its inmates. They are the intelligent keepers of one of the most precious libraries in the world, and form the zealous Chapter of their cathedral. The Abbot is virtually the Bishop of an ex- tensive diocese. They educate 250 students. In 1865, on the 600th anniversary of the foundation of the monastery , they edited and printed by their own unassisted labour a facsimile of their splendid manuscript of Dante , as an offering to their new Capital. The Benedictines of Mte. Casino have for many years occupied a peculiar position in the ecclesiastical-political world. Long before the events of 1859, Monte Casino was the refuge of liberal and constitutional principles. Whilst under the dark rule of the Bourbons the clergy of Naples generally acquiesced in their despotic rule, the Abbey of Monte Casino maintained a noble inde- pendence, incurring thereby both danger and annoyance from the existing government. Tosti, the life and soul of the convent, is one of the most accomplished and voluminous of modern Italian writers , and one of the most enlarged and liberal of modern di- vines. In his free and animated conversation , David Copperfleld and Mr. Gladstone, the last theological speculations of France and Germany, the future hopes of Rome and Italy are discussed with a brightness of spirit and liberality of view which any college or chapter in England might be proud to claim as its own. This monastery , too , like all other monastic establishments throughout Italy, is condemned to dissolution. In all probability, : however , it will be permitted to exist under the form of an educational establishment. The monastery commands a magnificent prospect in all di- rections, which the visitor should not omit to enjoy from the : different points of view. To the W. and S. extends the broad ^ valley of the Garigliano with its numerous villages, separated ! from the Gulf of Gaeta by a range of hills; the sea is occasionally ; distinguishable. To the E. is the valley of S. Germano, com- 8 Route 1. CAPUA. From Rome manded by the rocky summits of the Abruzzi. To the N. a wild! mountainous district. Nearest to the monastery rises Monte Cairo upwards of 5000 ft. in height, which may be asceiided from this point in 3 — 4 hrs. , an excursion, however, hardly to be recom- inended during the present unsettled state of the country. The i view from the summit is considered one of the finest in Italy extending from M. Cavo in the Alban range to Camaldoli near Naples. Proceeding on his journey to Naples, the traveller per- ceives to the 1. beyond S. Germano the villages of Cervaro, S. Vit- . tore and S. Pietro in Fine. Stat. Rocca FEvandro. The train quits the valley of the Garigliano, the scenery becomes more mountainous and desolate ; beyond the defile a more cultivated district is traversed, and stat. Mignano becomes visible. The line now intersects in a S. direction a barren, undulating; tract, which separates the Garigliano from the Volturno. Stat" Presenzono (the village lies on the slope to the 1.); then Caia- niello Vairano, whence a high road leads through the Abruzzi to Pescara on the Gulf of Venice (R. 12), and to Aquila and Terni (R. 14). Stat. Riardo. Stat. Teano (Locanda delP Italia); the town (5000 inhab.) lies at some distance to the r., at the base of the lofty Rocca Monfina, an extinct volcano (3200 ft.). The very extensive, but dilapidated old castle was erected in the 15th cent, by the dukes of Sessa. Ancient columns in the cathedral, inscriptions, remnants ! of a theatre and other antiquities are the sole remains of the venerable Teanum Sidicinum , once the capital of the Sidicini conquered by the Samnites in the 4th cent. B. C., then subjugated by the Romans , and in Strabo’s time the most flourishing inland i city of Campania after Capua. From Teano the line turns to the r. towards stat. Sparanisiy a village whence a road leads to Gaeta (p. 22). On the hill, to the 1. of the station , is situated Calvi , the ancient Cales , the i wine of which (vinum Calenum) is praised by Horace. It now consists of but a few houses, but contains some interesting anti- quities, a temple and a theatre. Stat. Pignataro. The train now i traverses the plain of the Volturno, the principal river of S. Italy, i 90 M. in length, and reaches stat. i Capua (Locanda della Posta , tolerable; Caf^ Italia). The town, oi whose ramparts and churches a glimpse only is obtained in passing, lies on the 1. bank of the river, by which the greater part of it is surrounded. It was erected in the 9th cent. , after the destruction of the ancient Capua, on the site of Casilinumy a town conquered by Hannibal, after an obstinate resistance, and which had fallen to decay in the time of the emperors. It now contains a popul. of 10,000, is an archiepiscopal residence and to Naples. SANTA MARIA DI CAPUA. r. Route. 9 strongly fortified. In the Piazza dei Giudici is the Arco di S. Etigio^ with ancient inscriptions. The Gothic Cathedral possesses. 22 beautiful columns from the amphitheatre of ancient Capua (see below), and a crypt, cojitaining a marble sarcophagus with a. representation of the hunt of Meleager. Otherwise modern Capua presents no attractions. The bridge across the Volturno , restored in 1756, is adorned with a statue of Nepomuc; beyond it is an inscription to the memory of the emperor Frederick II. , the statue belonging to which has disappeared. The Torre Mignana within, and the Cap- pella de’ Morti without the town commemorate the sanguinary attack made on Capua by Caesar Borgia in 1501, on which occasion 5000 lives were sacrificed. On the Volturno , in the vicinity of Capua , king Francis II. was defeated by the Piedmontese, Oct. 1860, after which the fortress was surrendered. About 3^2 M. beyond the Volturno and Capua, stat. Santa Maria di Capua, or Santa Maria Maggiore^ is reached {Alhergo di Gaetano Aran, in the Piazza). The flourishing town occupies the site of the celebrated ancient Capu^. Capua, founded by the Etruscans and afterwards occupied by Sabellian tribes, entered into alliance with the Romans B. C. 343, for the sake of protection against the attacks of the Samnites. At an early period its power and opulence became developed in this luxuriant district, and at the same time its effeminacy and degeneracy. When in the zenith of its prosperity it was the largest city in Italy after Rome and had a popul. of 300,000. In the 2nd Punic war, after the battle of Cannae, it entered into alliance mth Hannibal , who here took up his winter-quarters. That his army became so enervated by their residence at Capua as no longer to be a match for the Romans, is doubtless a mere hypothesis. Certain however it is, that the Romans soon regained their superiority, and after a long siege reduced the town B. C. 214. Its punishment was a severe one; the inhabi- tants were entirely deprived of all civic privileges. It was rescued from its abject condition by Csesar , and under his successors regained its ancient splendour. It continued to prosper until the wars of the Goths , Vandals and Lombards. In the 8th cent, it was destroyed by the Saracens and the inhabitants emigrated to the modern Capua (p. 8). The most remarkable of the ruins is the * Amphitheatre (gratuity 1/2 1. for 1 — 2 pers.), constructed of travertine, reputed the most ancient in Italy and said to have been capable of containing 100,000 spectators. Three of its passages are tolerably well pre~ served , but two only of the 80 entrance arches. The keystones are decorated with images of gods. The arena, with its passages, dens for the wild animals and subterranean receptacles , is , like that of Pozzuoli , better defined than that of the Colosseum at ' Rome. The flight of steps for the use of the gladiators is still I to be seen. Capua contained great numbers of these unhappy combatants , and it was here that the dangerous war of the gla- [;■ diators broke out B. C. 73 , which was with difficulty quelled by j Crassus two years later. The halls of the amphitheatre contain 10 Route 1. CASERTA. From Rome fragments of the ancient edifice, basreliefs etc. Near the entrance the visitor may ascend to the upper portion of the structure, whence the ruins themsel/es, as well as the spacious surrounding plain, may be surveyed. In the vicinity, on the road to the modern Capua (1^2 M.; carr. 1 1.)^ are the ruins of a Triumphal Arch. Above Capua Mons Tifata is visible, once the site of a temple of Jupiter, now surmounted by a chapel of S. Nicola. At the base of the mountain, about 31/2 M. from S. Maria, lies the ancient and interesting church of S. Angelo in Formis , oc- cupying the site of a celebrated temple of Diana, around which a village has established itself. The high road from Capua to Maddaloni (p. 11) by 8. Maria and Caserta presents a scene of the most animated traffic; ex- cursions by carriage through this garden-like district are there- fore preferable to those by railway. The road to Caserta, 3 M. distant (one-horse carr. 2 1.}, passes by two handsome Roman tombs. Near Capua the spacious plains of the ancient Campania begin to expand, now termed Terra di Lavoro^ like the Campagna di Roma of volcanic origin, but incomparably superior in fertility and admirably cultivated — a perfect garden, one of the most luxuriant districts in Europe, which, in addition to the produce of the dense plantations , yields two crops of grain and one of fodder in one season. The railway turns to the 1. to Caserta (* Albergo Vittoria; Villa Reale near the station, dear; Crocelle, well spoken of; * Stella Italia; Cafe d^ Italia), the Versailles of Naples, a clean and well built town (11,000 inhab.), with several palaces and handsome barracks , and an episcopal residence. It was founded in the 8th cent, by the Lombards on i the slope of the mountain, but the modern town is in a lower ! situation. The railway-station lies opposite the palace, permission ' to visit which (9—4 o’clock, gardens open till sunset) should be obtained from the royal intendant at the Palazzo Reale (p. 43) in Naples, although not absolutely essential (attendant 1 1., sacristan of the chapel 25 c.). The * Royal Palace of Caserta was erected in 1752 by king Charles III. , under the superintendence of Vanvitelli , in the richest Italian palatial style. It forms a rectangle. The 8. side is 780 ft. long and 125 ft. high, with 37 windows in each story. The courts of the palace are traversed by a colonnade , from the centre of which the staircase ascends. The Chapel is lavishly de- corated with marble, lapis lazuli and gold. It contains a ‘•Presen- tation in the Temple’’ by Mengs , five paintings by Conca and an altar-piece by Jionito. The Theatre is adorned with 16 Corin- thian columns of African marble from the temple of Serapis at Pozzuoli, and contains 40 boxes besides that appropriated to the to Naples. CANCELLO. 1. Route. 11 1‘oyal family. The palace is at present unoccupied. The Garden ontains magnificent fountains and cascades and handsome statues, the grand terrace above the cascade affords beautiful points of iew. The Casino Reale di S. Lucia^ situated in the park, about ! M. to the N., commands a still finer prospect. Caserta is a station of the new railway from Naples to Bene- ■ento-Foggia (R. 13). Stat. Maddaloni ; the town (17,793 inhab.) lies to the 1., with .n extensive and deserted palace of the Caraifa family, and com- nanded by a ruined castle. At a distance of 2^2 M. is situated he Ponti della Valle., constructed by Vanvitelii, an aqueduct up- vards of 200 ft. in height, consisting of 3 different stories. It upplies the gardens of Caserta with water and extends to a listance of 24 M. An agreeable excursion to it may be made from daddaloni. , Stat. Cancello , whence a branch line ’diverges to Nola and >an Severino (p. 12). I From Cancello to Benevento (27 M.) diligence in 4 hrs. ; fare ' : 1. (railway from Caserta to Benevento s. R. 13). The much frequented ' oad , still , however , guarded by a military patrol, skirts the base of the I dlls , passes through S. Felice and enters the valley where the long village : 'f Arienzo nestles amidst gardens and groves of olives and oranges. It then i eads through a narrow defile , considered by many to be identical with i he Furculse Caudinse, which proved so disastrous to the fortunes of Rome, i -nd ascends to the village of Arpaia (the ancient Caudium according to ' ome); it then traverses a well - cultivated valley and reaches the small own of (change of horses), with its extensive castle, once hi residence of the d’ Avalos family. This edifice has recently served as {. state prison, in which, among others, the well-known Poerio (d. 1867) ! /as confined. Towards the N. rises the lofty chain of Monte Taburno. ; '■'rom this point a path leads by the base of Monte Vergine to Av^ellino, a i /alk of 4 hrs. The traveller then crosses the Sarretella by a Roman bridge t nd approaches Benevento by an avenue of poplars ^ the road crosses the ^abato^ with fields and gardens on either side, Benevento s. R. 13. To the 1. Monte Somma becomes visible , concealing the cone f Vesuvius which lies beyond. Stat. Acerra (11,000 inhab.) was : he ancient Acerrae, to which the Roman citizenship was accorded s early as B. C. 332. The train next passes by the trenches of the iegi Lagni, destined to drain the marshes of the Pantano delV I'icerra, the ancient Clanius, now V Agno, and forming the bouri- ary between the provinces of Terra di Lavoro and Naples. The I ist station before Naples is reached is Casalnuovo ; to the 1. [I ''esuvius becomes visible. The station at Naples is at the S.E. ‘ xtremity of the town. Arrival in Naples, see p. 25. The branch railway from Cancello (see above) to Nola skirts ; lie Apennines and traverses the Campanian plain, passing by Nola, Palma, I ' arno, Codola, S. Giorgio and San Severino. There are 4 trains daily from idaples on this line ^ to Nola in 1^4 hr. (1st cl. 2 1. 25 c. ^ 2nd cl. 1 1. 70c.-, I rd cl. 75 c.) ; to S. Severino 2^2 hrs. (tst cl. 4 1. 30 c. -, 2nd cl. 3 1. 30 c.; ! rd cl. 1 1. 50 c.). j2 Route 1. A YELLING. From Rome Stat. Kola (a poor Traitcria in the Piazza), an ancient Campanian cily. almcst the only one which successfully resisted the attacks ofHannihal after the battle of Cannae, B. C. 216., and under the command of the brave M. Marcellus repulsed the invader in 215. Here the Emperor Augustus died, Aug. 19th, A. D. 14, in his 76th year, in the same house and apartment where his father Octavius had lieathed his last. In ancient times Nola was not less important than Pompeii. It is now an insignificant place and devoid of interest. In the 5th cent.. St. Paulinus, an erudite poet and Bi- shop of Nola (b. at Bordeaux in 354, d. 431), is said to have invented church-bells here, frcm which the word campana is derived. On the 26th of July a festival , accompanied by characteristic processions and games , is celebrated to his honour. In the middle of the 16th cent, the free-thinker Giordano Bruno was born at Nola; on Feb. 17th, 1600, he terminated his chequered career at the stake in Rome. Giovanni 3Ierliano, the celebra- ted sculptor of Xaples , known as Giovanni da Nola, was also born here in 1478. T^ola is celebrated as an ancient cradle of the plastic art. The magni- ficent vases of yellow clay, adorned with chestnut-brown figures, which form the principal ornaments of the museums of Naples and of other pla- ces, were executed here, the ait having teen introduced, as it is believed, by the Corinthians Eucheir and Eugrammos , B. C. 6C0. Numerous coins of Nola with Greek inscriptions have also been found. About 1 I 2 31. to the N.E. of the town is situated the Seminary, where several Latin inscriptions and the so-called Cippus Ahellanus ^ a remarkable inscription in the Oscan language , are preserved. Above the seminary CI 4 31.) lies the Franciscan monastery of S. Angelo^ commanding a view of the fertile and luxuriant plain; to the 1. 3Ionte Somma, behind which Vesuvius is concealed; to the r. the mountains of 3Iaddaloni. To the E. of the monastery another of the Capuchin order is situated , above which the ruined castle of Cicala pictu- resquely surmounts an eminence. Stat. Palma, a small town on the slopes of the range of hills N. of Vesuvius, is picturesquely situated opposite to Ottajano. It possesses an ancient feudal castle , now the property of the state , and is commanded by the remnants of an extensive fortress on a neighbouring eminence. Stat. Sarno, a place of some importance , situated on the Sarno^ which flows from this point in the direction of Scafati and Pompeii. Above it towers a ruined stronghold, where Count Francesco Coppola long main- tained himself during the conspiracy of the barons against Ferdinand of Arragon (1460), a favourite subject with artists. The view now becomes more limited. Stations Codola and San Giorgio; then San Severino (poor inn), where the line at present terminates. It will, however be continued towards the r. to Salerno, and to the 1 . to Benevento, Avellino and Foggia. The principal church contains the tombs ofTommasoi da San Severino , high constable of the Kingdom of Naples in 1353 , and of several princes of Salerno. A good road leads from S. Severino to (10 3L> Salerno hy Baronisi ^ scene of the death of Fra Diavolo , and another b> Cava and Nocera. To Avellino (11 31.) the road ascends the valley of the Sarno (to the r. on the mountain slope Montuoro) ^ traverses the hills which separate the Sarno from the Sabato , and descends by Celsi , Contrada and Bellizzi to Avellino {Albergo Italia; Albergo delle Puglie) ^ capital of the province Prineipato Ulterior e ^ an episcopal residence, with a population of 24,000. The ancient palace of the Caracciolo family is now the custom-house. In the vicinity are extensive plantations of hazel-nut trees, mentioned by the ancients as “nuces Avellanee”. The name is derived from the ancient Abellinum^ the ruins of which are 2^(4 M. distant, near the village of Atn- palda. Fr(»m Avellino a visit may be paid to Monte Vergine , a celebrated re- sort of pilgrims. The route is by ( 4'|2 3'I.) Mercogliano^ whence a mountain- path leads in l>|z hr. to the shrine of Monte Vergine, founded in 1119 on to Naples. ^AMSANCTUS LAKE. 1. Route. 13 ithe ruins of a temple of Cybele. The church contains a miraculous image of the Virgin and the tombs of Catherine of Valois who caused the image to be brought hither, and of her son Louis of Tarento , second husband of Johanna I. Their effigies repose on a Roman sarcophagus. On the 1. side of the high-altar is the chapel erected by king Manfred for himself and which, when that monarch fell at Benevento, was given by Charles of Anjou to one of his French attendants. A path leads hence to the summit of the mountain (4027 ft.), commanding a magnificent prospect of the Bay of Na- ples and the extensive mountainous district. The abbot and the older monks occupy the Loreto or rOspizio, a large octagonal structure near Mer- cogliano , erected from a design by Vanvitelli. The archives comprise up- wards of 18,000 documents on parchment and 200 MSS. , important records of mediaeval history. Great festivals are celebrated here at Whitsuntide, attended by numerous devotees in their gay and picturesque costumes. The former diligence-road to Foggia descends the valley of the Sabato., which is crossed before (6 M. ) Pratola is reached. The hills are next traversed which separate the Sabato from the Calore , near the village of Denticane. To the r. Monte Miletto with an ancient castle. The road then descends by Campanarello into the valley of the Calore , and, passing Mira- bella on the 1., near the ancient Aeclanum., a town of the Samnites, reaches Grottaminarda (poor inn), a small town with 4000 inhab. The Amsanctus Lake, commonly called La Mofete may be visited on horseback from Grottaminarda in 4 hrs. It consists of two small lakes, situated in a deep valley, resembling a crater , and celebrated for their me- phitic exhalations (carbonic acid and sulphuretted hydrogen) ; therefore declared by Virgil (uEn. VII. 563) to be an entrance to the infernal regions. According to Cicero (De div. I. 36) the Amsanctus was situated in the ter- ritory of the Hirpini. The path thither leads S. by the village of Frigento (4^|2 M.), whence the lakes are M. distant to the S.E. The road to Foggia leads through the narrow valley of the TJffita (to the r. the villages of Flumeri and Baronia) by Melito to Ariano (Porta)., an episcopal residence and culminating point between the Adriatic and the Tyrrhenian sea, whence the railway from Naples to Foggia (R. 13) may be ; reached at stat. Montecalvo or Savignano (p. 170). ■ An Excursion to the Valley of the Liris and Lago Fucino may either be made from Rome , or from the railway stat. Rocca Secca (p. 4) , so that this route may be selected by the traveller from Rome to Naples. Unfortunately the road is bad and in some places unfit for car- riages. Of late years this district, lying on the Roman and Neapolitan ; frontiers , has been a favourite haunt of banditti , and can therefore hardly I be recommended. Letters of introduction will prove invaluable , as there I are no inns in many of the villages. i The route from Rome is by Tivoli in the valley of the Anio, ascending ‘ to Roviano (see Part II. of this Handbook), 15 M. from Tivoli, and Arsoli, , where the carriage-road ends. Thence on foot or horseback by a mountain road, the ancient Via Valeria, by Carsoli, with the ruins of the ancient rCarseoli, to Tagliacozzo (31 M. from Tivoli). Between stat. Rocca Secca (p. 4) and Avezzano, the principal place on : the Lago Fucino, diligence communication daily in 10 hrs. From 6 M. , to the inconsiderable Arce , the Arx Volscorum , with a lofty mountain stronghold of great antiquity, reputed impregnable in the middle ages. Some 1 ruins (to the E.) are said to have belonged to the villa of Lucius Cicero, ' brother of the orator. From Arce the road proceeds on the 1. bank of the ; Liris, which is seldom visible. A sulphureous brook is then crossed, where I the village of Fontana to the r. , and, to the 1. beyond the frontier, Monte VS. Giovanni., once a wealthy monastery, become visible. About 3 M. from I Arce the road to Arpino diverges to tlie 1. Close to the road , near the : small island of S. Paolo , the Liris forms a series of cataracts , termed La i Natrella. In the vicinity the fragments of an ancient Roman bridge. The ] 4 Route 1 . ARPINO. From Rome traveller next reaches (8 M. from Arce) the little town of Isola, situate' on an island , near which the Liris , impeded in its course by a mass c rock, surmounted by the venerable castle of the Dukes of Sora, forms tw imposing "waterfalls. One of these descends perpendicularly from a heigh of 100 ft.; the other, at the extremity of the town, glides majestically dow; an inclined plane. The town boasts of flourishing cloth , linen and papt manufactories. The women of Isola, Sora and Arpino, with their picturej^ que national costume , are among the handsomest in Italy. Beyond Isoli the road ascends gradually to the Cartiera del Fibreno, a paper-manufactor established by a Frenchman, M. Lefevre, now Count of Balzorano. Withi his grounds are situated the waterfalls (le Cascatelle) of the rivers Liri and Fibreno , which deserve a visit. The Fibrenus and its cool waters ai praised by Cicero. In this river, about M. higher up, before its junctio with the Liris, is situated the /sola S. Paolo ^ with the monastery of th Benedictine S. Domenico Abbate (born at Foligno in 951), where Hildt brand, subsequently Pope Gregory VII,, once lived as brother of the order Here , too , is the Insula Arpinas , birthplace of Cicero , and scene of hi dialogue “de legibus”. The Gothic church of the monastery is erected o the ruins of the great orator’s villa. Remnants of Doric columns and sta tues may be observed in the dilapidated walls , when examined from tb garden of the monastery. Cicero’s villa had been founded by his granc father, and embellished by his father who here devoted himself to scienc in retirement, and it was therefore a favourite retreat of the orator, wh' describes it : de leg. 2, 3. Under Domitian it belonged to the poet Siliu Italicus. Above the island the Liris was crossed by an ancient bridge (Ponti di Cicerone); one of the three arches alone remains. To the 1., at the bad of the paper-mills on the Fibreno , a path ascends the mountain in wir dings to (2^/2 M.) Arpino, the Arpinum of the Volsci, celebrated as the native place o Cicero and Marius , now an animated manufacturing town , pleasantly situa ted on undulating ground and commanding beautiful views of the valley The church of 8. Michele is said to occupy the site of a temple of th Muses , the Palazzo Castello that of the house of Marius , and in the Strad della Clortina “Cicero’s house” is pointed out, although we have no record of any residence of the orator except his villa on the island. The Palazz del Comune , or town-hall , is adorned with statues of Cicero and Marius the name of the former is here regarded with profound veneration. “Wea ver” and “fuller” are words which frequently occur in ancient inscription found here, an interesting fact, which tends to corroborate the statement o Dio Cassius that the father of the orator was a fuller. The artist Giusepp Cesari (1560—1640), commonly known as II Cavaliere d’ Arpino, was a nativ of Arpino, and his house is still shown. The Civitd vecckia^ or ancient castle, situated on a precipitous eminenc' above the town , deserves a visit on account of its interesting Cyclopeai walls and especially its line pointed gateway , the Porta delP Arco. Tra dition imputes the foundation of this castle , like so many others in Italy to king Saturntis , as the inscription proudly records : “Arpinum a Saturn^ conditum, Volscorum civitatem , Romanorum municipium , Marci Tulli Ciceronis eloquentiae Principis et Cai Marii septies Consulis patriam in gredere viator: hinc ad imperium triumphalis aquila egressa urbi totun orbern subiecit : ejus dignitatem agnoscas et sospes esto.” — The arms o Arpino consist of two towers, over which hovers the Roman eagle. The high road leads from Isola to the venerable Sora (clean inn) 4^2 M. distant, in a flat situation on the Liris. The town was once takej by the Romans from tlie Volsci and given to the Samnites, and subse (luently became a Roman colony. On a rocky eminence in the rear ar ancient fortifications and the ruins of a castle, which belonged successive] to the Cantelmi, T(»macel]i, Rovere and Buoncampagni. Several celebrate^ men, such as the Decii, Atilius Regulus, the orator Q,. Valerius, L. Mum mi\js and (dhers , were either natives or residents of this town. In 15o) to Naples. [LAGO FUCINO. 7, Route. 15 Sera was the birthplace of the learned Cardinal Caesar Baronins who died . at Kome in 1607 as librarian of the Vatican. Sora forms , as it were , the ; termination of the military road to the Abruzzi and is therefore an annro- i priate situation for a fortress. A monntain-path leads from this to the r. by Atma to San Germano (p. 5), passing the small lake of La Posia (3 M. from Sora), the source of ,the Fibreno. Atina, an ancient and loftily situated town, possesses huge Cyclopean walls, gateways (porta aiirea).^ and other interesting traces of its former importance. The path from Sora to Capistrello (23 M.) ascends on the 1. bank of the Lins through the Yal di Roveio , beneath the lofty Balzorano a small town with an ancient castle of the Piccolomini ; passes to the r by -Civita Anti/io, the Antinum of the Marsi , affords a view of the beautiful Lo Schioppo, a waterfall of the Roveto, below the village of Morino reaches fiviiella di Roveto., turns to the r. at the culminating point, where the valley contracts and the road leads through a defile, crosses the mouth of the ^nal constructed by Claudius to drain the Lago Fucino , and reaches papistrello. ’ ■ . ■■"Lago Fucino or Celano, the Lacus Fucinus of the ancients, one ,)f the largest in Italy, is 40i|2 M. in circumf. As it lies 2230 ft. above he sea-level , it has occasionally been frozen over. It contains numerous ash and water-snakes, whilst vipers, wild boars, lynxes etc. abound among he neighbouring mountains. The Marsi, by whom the district was an- : lently inhabited , were reputed to be sorcerers and magicians. In ancient imes the lake frequently occasioned disa;^trous inundations, on account of v'hicn the Marsi besought Julius Caesar to cause the superfluous water to >e drawn off. Claudius was the first to attempt the task, and having failed n an endeavour to drain the lake into the Imele, which falls into the ^elino , a tributary of the Tiber, he caused an Fmissarius , or tunnel, to 'e constructed, penetrating Monte Salviano for a distance of 18,370 ft. in ’ength, in the direction of Capistrello, and falling into the Liris. Not fewer ^han 30.000 men were employed in the work during 11 years, from A. D. 41 D 52. It is about 13 ft. in height, 6 ft. in breadth, partly hewn in the mestone rock, partly constructed of bricks^ it has 33 openings (pozzi) to dmit light and air, and is on the whole in a good state of preservation n order to inaugurate the completion of the work, Claudius caused the pectacle of a sanguinary naval encounter on the lake to be exhibited to vast multitude of spectators , after which the water was admitted to its ew outlet. It was subsequently deepened and re-opened vith renewed astivities , as Tacitus informs us (Ann. 12, 57). The passage afterwards ecame obstructed, and new works were undertaken by Trajan, Hadrian nd in the middle ages by the Emp. Frederick II. In 1786 and 1826 ope- jitions were again conimenced , but without much success. A company s!cently formed, of which Prince Torlonia is president, has undertaken to sKecute the task in accordance with the plans of M. Montricher , a French- =;:an , and the works are now rapidly progressing. This has given rise to |i::e local witticism : “O Torlonia secca il Fucino , o il Fucino secca Tor- ll/nia.” [' The path follows the direction of the tunnel , and at some distance to F e L Tagliacozzo becomes visible. If the traveller here ascends Monte %lviano., clothed with a luxuriant growth of sage , he will enjoy a magnili- nt prospect of the lake and surrounding mountains, among which the iaiella (8444 ft.) to the S. and the Velino (7700 ft.) to the N. are most 3 nspicuous. The path now skirts the lake , traverses the plain and leads it the town of Avezzano, 6 M. from Capistrello, surrounded with vine& h:d al m on d- trees , and possessing a palace erected by the Colonnas, now Se property of the Barberini , a conspicuous object from a distance. Car- jige-roads lead from Avezzano to Tagliacozzo, to Celano and Popoli (dili- tnee in 10 hrs. ; p. 167) on the high-road through the Abruzzi (R. 12). A i(iid]e path leads from Celano to Aquila (R. 14), a distance of 28 M. 16 Route h ALBA. From Rome About 6 M. from Avezzano the traveller reaches the small town of €elano, beautifully situated on an eminence, the principal place on the. lake, which derives one of its appellations from it. It possesses a pictures •que piazza and ’’•‘castle dating from 1450, once the property of the unfor- tunate Countess Covella, who was attacked and taken prisoner by her own «on Rugierotto. She w'as soon liberated , but the domain was presented by Ferdinand of Arragon in 1463 to his son-in-law Antonio Piccolomini Duke of Amalfi and nephew of Pius II. Celano was the birth-place ol Thomas of Celano (d. 1253), the reputed author of the celebrated requiem ■“Dies irse, dies ilia”. On the 1. bank of the lake is situated the village of ^an Benedetto^ the site of Marruhium ^ the ancient capital of the Marsi. considerable remains of which may be observed in the lake (in which, during the great drought of 1752, statues of Nero , Claudius, Hadrian and Agrippina were found, now at Naples), as well as on the land. On the 8. bank are situated the villages of Trasacco and Luco , the ancient Lucus Angitiae, which once possessed a shrine of that goddess. On a range of hills 3i|2 M. to the N. of Avezzano , lies Alba, the Alba Fucentia or Alba Marsoriim of the Romans , celebrated for its fidelity to Rome. The church of S. Pietro occupies the site of an ancient temple the columns of which are built into the walls , and from its lofty situation -commands a fine view’. Objects of interest are remnants of an amphitheatre and admirably preserved Cyclopean walls. Here the Romans confined Per- seus , king of Macedonia, when defeated by Emilius Paul us , and other vanquished sovereigns at various periods. Descending from Alba , the tra- veller leaves Magliano ^ situated on the lofty bank of the Imele, to the r.. and passing by Scurcola reaches the Campi Palentini ^ where, Aug. 26 th. 1268, the youthful Conradin of Hohenstaufen, the last scion of the illustrious imperial house of Swabia , was conquered by Charles I. of Anjou , by the obtained from the first policeman {carabinieri., blue coat with three- jornered hat; or the municipal guardia di pubblica sicurezza., a dark uni- brm with military cap). No assistance is to be expected from the people )f the hotel, who are more likely to be in alliance with the driver than to •ossess any sympathy for the traveller, whose own energy and firmness are iis best protection. b. By Steamboat. The steamers lay to without the Porto Grande, is soon as permission is granted to disembark, a small boat (1 1. for each ters. with luggage ; here too the most extortionate demands are usually nade, of which the traveller should take no notice) conveys the passengers 0 the Hogana, by the Irnmacolatella, where luggage is examined. This one, one of the Facchini della dogana places the luggage on the fiacre or ther conveyance (40 c.). Here the remarks already made (s. above) also pply. 26 Route 4. NAPLES. Arrival. The drive from the station tothe hotel on the Chiaia (p. 27) or S. Lucia affords the traveller an opportunity of for- ming an idea of the topography of the town (comp, the plan). Driving towards the harbour, the carriage soon turns to the r. into the cross -street del Carmine with the church of that name, where Coiiradiii is interred, and enters the Piazza del Mercato. This is left to the r. ; the carriage drives past the church del €armine , crosses a small square , and by the Porta del Carmine reaches the harbour. Here a view is obtained of the S. side of the bay, of M. Somma and Vesuvius, at the base of which lie Portici, Resina and Torre del Greco , so close together as almost to be united ; beyond is the peninsula of Sorrento , which sepa- rates the bay from that of Salerno to the S. and is traversed by the lofty Monte Santangelo; opposite the harbour lies the grotes- quely-shaped rocky island of Capri. In front of the traveller extends the long line of building which skirt the haibour, bounded by the hill Posilipo and commanded by Fort S. Elmo. The car- riage now proceeds along the Strada Nuova , on the animated shore. Further on, diverging to the 1. and passing round the Porto Piccolo or small-boat harbour , the traveller reaches the Porto Grande., enclosed by breakwaters. Contiguous to it, separated by a moio, is the naval harbour with the arsenal and Castel Nuovo. Thence to the r. , through the broad Strada del Molo , enclosed on the 1. by the fort and to the r. by a number of theatres, booths etc. The Piazza del Municipio (formerly Largo del Castello'j is next traversed in its entire length. Contiguous is the Strada S. Carlo , with the royal palace and garden in front of it , and farther on is the theatre of S. Carlo. The square in front of the latter is the focus of the traffic of the city : in a straight di- rection from it runs the Strada della Chiaia., to the r. the Toledo. the principal street. To the 1. the large Piazza del Flebiscito {formerly Largo del Palazzo Reale) is entered; to the 1. the pa- lace , to the r. the church of S. Francesco di Paola surmounted by a dome and approached by a semicircular portico ; in front of it the equestrian statues of Charles III. and Ferdinand I. of Bourbon. Hence by the Strada del Gigante ^ below which to thej 1. is the arsenal, the shore is again reached (to the 1. Hotel dei Rome). The picturesque Strada S. Lucia, above which towers the rocky height of Pizzofalcone, is now traversed, leading to Chiata- rnone at the foot of Pizzofalcone, where to the 1. Castel delV Ovo projects into th > sea. Thence to the Largo d^^^" Vittoria , near which is the entrance to the Villa Reale, the principal promenade of Naples, extending a considerable distance alone* the coast. The street parallel to the promenade is the Riviera di Chiaia, usually termed Chiaia, the continuation o^ *vhich , the Mergellina, leadsj to the Posilipo and farther to Pozzuoli. i Hotels. NAPLES. 4. Route. 27 The approach from the sea affords the advantage of at nee revealing to the traveller the bay in its full beauty and raiideur. The scene on a fine summer day is one of unparalie- id loveliness. Those, therefore, who have arrived by railway, ^hich is the most convenient and least expensive conveyance 'om Rome , should not omit to make an excursion by boat, in rder to see the bay to the best advantage, or in summer by one f the small steamers which ply between Naples and Ischia, orrento and Capri. ‘^The strait, which is bounded by the low island of Procida n the r. and Capo Miseno on the 1. , is the channel by which lie bay of Naples is entered in this direction, — the portal to ^hat has been termed a fragment of heaven to earth vouchsafed’, apo Miseno is a rocky eminence, connected with the mainland y a long narrow isthmus ; a grey, deserted tower of weird aspect ccupies the summit. The white houses of Procida, with their at roofs glittering in the sunshine, remind one of a troop of ilgrims toiling up the ascent.’’ The author of the work from which the above extract is made Iso strongly recommends the visitor to Naples to approach it from lie sea. The impression , as he justly observes , which is pro- uced by a rapid transition by land from majestic Rome to squalid taples is inevitably disappointing, whilst the traveller arriving com the sea is at once introduced into all the fascinating charms f the beautiful gulf. Hotels. Those patronized by strangers are situated principally in the -iviera di Chiaia, facing the sea and extending as far as S. Lucia. The otels in the interior of the towm are frequented by men of business. The harges are highest in spring, before and after Easter, w^hen the influx of isitors is at its height. Families visiting the city at this season will do ell to secure rooms by letter, some time previous to their arrival. — ''V i t - oria (PI. a), "D ’Am e r i q ue (PI. b), *Kew York (PI. c), in the Largo ella Vittoria, opposite the Villa Reale-, *Gran Bretagna (PI. dj, Chiaia 76, with beautiful view-; *Delle Crocelle(Pl. e), Strada Chiatamone 32, large establishment, the upper rooms only command fine views ; U n i - erso, Chiaia 225; '"Hotel des Etrangers (PI. f), well situated, Chia- imone 9, fine views, especially patronized by English travellers. These re establishments of the highest class, comfortably fitted up and with cor- ispondingly high charges: R. 4 — 6 1., table d’hote 4 — 5 1., etc . -7 The follow- ig hotels in S. Lucia are worthy of recommendation, although less pretend- ig and less fashionably situated : "Hotel de Rome (PI. g), beautifully tuated close to the sea, R. from 3 1., bed 1 1., L. 1 1., B. 85 c. ; Hotel de Russie, comfortable, R. from 2^2 L, bed 85 c., L. 11., table bote 41. — The views from S. Lucia of Sorrento, Capri and Mt. Vesuvius re beautiful, and here an insight into the habits and national peculiarities f the Neapolitans may best be acquired, but unfortunately sleep is too ften banished by noisy nocturnal pleasure-seekers. In all these hotels isitors are expected to dine at the table d’hote; otherwise the charge for aartments is increased. — Hotels of the 2nd class, situated in noisy streets i the interior of the town, cannot be recommended to the traveller in sarch of enjoyment and comfort, and are frequented chiefly by men of usiness. The best of these is the Hotel de Geneve (PI. i), R. 2 ‘| 2 l., 2S Route 4. NAPLES. ReitauranU. table d'hote 3i|2l., in the Strada Medina. Opposite to it, 'Hotel Central. Hotel 31 o n tp e 1 1 i er , Strada Nardones 8. Hotel Speranzella, in the street of that name, near the Toledo ; Hotel dn Globe, near Fontana 3Iedina ^ HellaVenezia, Vico S. Anna di Palazzo ^ Alb ergo dei Fiori, | Largo Fiorentini. In the neighbonrhood of the latter, between the Toledo and Str. 3Iontoliveto, are a number of small inns of liumble pretension, where accommodation may generally be obtained when the larger hotels are full. For a stay of some duration the traveller will find it less expensive and in some respects more comfortable to engage an apartment at a Hotel Garni. Charges vary with the season and attain their culminating p(»int j on unusual occasions, such as an eruption of 3It. Vesuvius, which invariably attracts crowds of visitors. The rooms are generally large and fitted up for the accommodation of two persons : with one bed 2 i| 2 — 4, with two beds 4 — 6 1. per diem. The number of days for which the room is engaged should be distinctly stated, otherwise the visitor may unexpectedly be I required to leave. With respect to charges (e. g. : A. ^12 1., L. 30 c. per diem) a distinct understanding beforehand is the only means of preventing excessive extortion. Breakfast may usually be obtained in the house, but better at a cafe. A few of the best of these establishments are here enumerated. S. Lucia: No. 1 Villa d’Afene; No. 92 Hotel dTtalie, first- floor^ No. 71, first-floor; Nos. 31 and 28, different proprietors in the different stories; No. 21; all commanding a view of the sea, and 3It. Ve- suvius. Chiaia: Nos. 114 and 118 Pension Anglaise; No. 127 English Nos. 144, 155, 211, 255, 257, 263. Near the Riviera di Chiaia, Vico Car- minello a Chiaia Nos. 59 and 64; Strada Vittoria 12. Farther on, 3Iergellina villa Barbaia 23. For a longer residence suites of apartments in the town, or for the summer months in one of the surrounding villas, may be engaged with the, aid of a house-agent. 3Iost of the houses in the Chiaia have a S. aspect- and enjoy the pure sea-air. The climate in summer as well as winter isj more equable than that at Rome or Florence. February and 3Iarch gene- rally very changeable. Invalids should consult an experienced medical man' as fo the" period of their visit and the locality of their apartments. — S. Lucia j is exposed in winter to the N.E. and E. winds. The water is bad, and if drunk without being iced is apt to occasion | diarrhoea. Change of air (an excursion of 1—2 days) and ice are the inost^ effectual remedies. Restaurants {Trattorie) : The Italian cuisine is everywhere predominant. Dinners usually a la carte; 3 dishes with fruit and wine 2— 3i|2l.; icedj water (acqua gelata) 5 c. ; good tabie-wine per bottle (caraffa) 50 c. ; bread, generally indifferent, 15 c. (pane francese of finer and better flour); gratuity i 15 c. Smoking universal, ladies however may visit the better of these! establishments. 3Iost of them are situated in the Toledo, on the first-floor, entrance generallv from a side-street. —Restaurant at the Gran Caffe deL Pal. Re ale, D." at 5 o'cl. 41. Restaurant du Cafe de I’Europe. above the cafe of that name, at the corner of the Strada di Chiaia and the; Toledo, dear. ’=A) u Nord in the next street, Nardones 118. *Villadi Parigi, Toledo 210, not expensive. Trattoria Rebecchino allal Milanese, 3Iilanese cuisine. — On the opposite side of the Toledo. No. 198 (entr. S. Brigida 2), ’^’Villa di Napoli, an old-established trattoria, visited by strangers as well as Neapolitans. Ere ole, Toledo 144; Villaj di TorTno, Vico della Costituzione, near the (^uestura, viands goodJ rooms indifferent, one of the oldest trattorie in Naples, formerly the usuai iialling-place for all strangej-s. — By the sea, adjacent to the Villa Reale, Rest a u r a n t d u ,I a i- d i n d’ h i v e r , most beautifully situated ; in summer, f.alls of duliious respectability. — Z e p f-W e b e r (also a cafe), Str. del( 3Io]o 2, German landlord. Armenia, Str. di Chiaia 134. Trattoria, di (iennaro, Str. Vittoria a Chiaia. The maccaroni of Naples is cele- brated, but generally somewhat hard; it should therefore be ordered “ben- cot ti”. It is usually flavoured with pomi iVoro (paradise-apples), to which Money. NAPLES. 4. Route. 29 jhe Neapolitans are extremely partial. Sea-fish excellent also a snecies of (^«PP 0 di vongole), a good but itidigestilde loz ■ the lareS kfnd \ Ti’rl'' §-12 so!di pm- If ^ /V ^ 1—1^2 1- Oood lish may also be procured at the rattorie di Campagna by the Posilipo, close to the sea* also at thf» trattoria della Schiava, Trattoria del Fio-iin ^ T?- f ^ . much frequented Tr at /or del /o VncI to thi %4Tla l^to tTe toTn 2-3I.‘“ beforehand). Boat '/^the^ (^^al^'asia, a sweet wine, 15-20 soldi per ^bottle !i the Jesuits; cellar), Falerno. Usually adulterated are : Marsala clpri and "o“nceTon^‘r¥j,-le;:S!"‘“"^^ ll6:’mT\Mco Cafes. Smoking everywhere allowed. At the larger cafes deieuner a fourchette. On summer evenings they are crowded with ice-eiterf in 9 >-anita only. The charges vary, but usually: cu^of fat^ ko\r “r ?■’ 15-50 c., 2 fried eggs (due uova al niattol 40 he lists of ices generally comprise a great variety; granita 4oAo c ^gelato ) c. and upwards. Gratuity 1 soldo. The Gran Cafe del Palizzo ■ostVren“ l''a Municipio, opposite the palace, is the best and ■ ost frequented. Adjacent, in the Str. di Chiaia, “Europa wk restau ad -Benvenuto, Str. di Chiaia 140, e.xcellent ices ^Cafe delP unpretending. Zepf -Weber ' r. Molo 2, already mentioned, Bavarian beer. At other places the sliahtlv rervescmg beer (50 c. per bottle) of the country is usually drunk Con Terronefs.BrS sTtalzano; meUreT'em^iTovt"! ‘be old Neapolitan system is still ^Irltol -Tf to^r classes m keeping accounts; 1 piastra = cariini — 5 1. 10 c. : 1 ducato = 10 carlini = 4 1. 25 c. ; 2 carlini - 85 r • ^n, the commonest are piastres, half-piastres, carlini and 2-carlinf , gangers should take care not to take 2-carlini pieces for Kre, or caihni . employed by the bank for the public convenience the most frequented parts of the streets. Of ,..se the traveller may without risk of imposition avail himself as* it is 'Slf/rd provided with small notes. The exchange-offices, wherl Ictld.^ containing the current rate of exchange is exhibited, should be ‘ifrTc^TfVp^fnVt^i'" at the entrance of the Villa Beale, ffler /n 52; Turner & Co.; tiler, Breyer hav« a very extensive circulation (il pungolo = a goad for driving cattle ^ e usci '1 pung” = e uscito (il Pungolo, is a call everywhere heard about « p. in.). In the morning appear the “Patria”, “Poma”, Indip endente^ and a numbei of others of less importance. Flower-girls, especially near the larger cafes ^ generally as unattractive as importunate. Shoe-hlacks, whose knocking is intended to attract the attention o( passers-by, 5 c. Matches. A box of vestas (cerini , 10 c.) is a desirable acquisition , a matches are never provided at hotels. Vendors of iced water (acquaiuoli) carry on a very animated traffic ii summer. They are usually provided with two large tubs filled with snow in which the water is cooled, and a supply of lemons etc. Iced water 2 c per glass; with lemon or anisette 5 c., with amarena 10 c. — There are a].s> several mineral springs in the town, containing sulphur and carbonic aci< gas* the best known in S. Lucia. Women and girls offer a draught t passers-by (5 c.). The water has a slightly medicinal effect, but the sme. is disagreeable. Carriages. The distances in Naples are so great, the charges are s moderate, and walking in the hot season is so fatiguing, that there is littl inducement for pedestrianism. A private two-horse carr. for excursion costs 15-251. per diem: in the town 151. and gratuity. They are to b hired at the hotels, at S. Lucia 31 etc. The fares of the public vehicles ar considerably lower; two-horse carr. per drive during the day 1 1. 20c., fron midnight to sunrise 11. 50 c.; by time; 21. for the first hr., 1 1. 40 c. fo each successive hr.; at night 3 1. for the first, 2 1 . for each successive hr. - One horse carr. (carrozzella) per drive 60 c., at night 1 1.; by tune (generah disadvantageous); 11. 40c. for the first, 11. for each successive hr.; c night 2 1. and 1 1. 40 c. respectively. In hiring by time, any fraction abov an hour is charged as 1(2 hr. In order to avoid imposition, the best cours is to pav the strict fare, and not a single soldo m addition. Those wh are disposed to pay liberally are sure to be victimized. In case of dispute application should' be made to the nearest policeman. At the same time it is desirable that the stranger should be acquainte with the principal boundaries of the town ; in the line of the Chiaia as ta as the commencement of the 3Iergellina and beyond it as far as Vir^^ Tomb at the entrance to the grotto of Posilipo ; towards the N.W., naro dei Poveri (catacombs), crescent with the stairs of Capodimonte (T one di Capodimonte) farther on, S. Efremo vecchio, Albergo dei Poveri in th Str. Foria. and on the sea-shore Ponte della Maddalena (beyond the Sebetol Tariff, for one-horse and two-horse carr. respectively, for the followin excursions; Villaggio di Posilippo 1 1. 50 and 21. 25 c. ; Villaggio grotta 1 1. 20 and 1 1. 75; Bagnoli and Lago d^pano 2 and 31. ; Vomei< Antignano, Arenella, Villaggio di Capodimonte 1 1. 5() and 25^; Pptn 1 1 75 and 2 1. 50 c. ; Resina 2 and 3 1. ; Torre del Greco 2 1. 50 and o 75 ‘c.- Barra 11. 75 and 21. 50 c, - For longer excursiop, an agreeinei should be made with the driver beforehand. He should be infomied ( the distance and duration of the drive. In answer to his demand, the hire offers what he considers a fair sum, and if the driver attempts to remo strafe, quietly withdraws. This course seldom fails to prove satisfactor On Sundays and holidays the fares are somewhat higher. Omnibuses afford a convenient opportunity, especially to a singl^e tr veller, of visiting the Museum and of making short excpsips in the e virons. Principal lines; A. 1. From S. Ferdinando by the Palazzo Rea (fare 15 c.. after dusk 20 c.) every 10 min. by the Toledo to the Muspi and bey(.nd it to the Albergo dei Poveri the Str. Foria. 2. By the Str^ .. 1 .. 1 _ Az l\f inn . ri. Kv tllG xOl6C ana oeyonu ii lo me j\xvK:i^Kf ^ d di Chiaia and the Riviera di Chiaia to the Mergellina. 3. By the Toled diverging by S. Pietro Majella to the Vicaria (Palais de ‘ Justice) near Poi Baths. NAPLE.S. 4. Route. 31 Oapuana. -- B. From the Largo Vittoria by the Villa Reale, every OQ min (fare 20 c.) by the Strada di Chiaia and Toledo to the Museum. - C From the Piazza del Municipio every i/g hr. to the station (fare 20 c.): also to ^rtici by Ponte della Maddalena and S. Giovanni near the Palace (fare 40 c.). In the evening and on the less frequented routes the time of ;starting sometimes depends on the number of passengers who 'nresent themselves. * Boats. Charges vary according to circumstances. A boat with 4 rowers about 15 1. per diem. Excursion to Portici with 2 rowers 51. A row in the harbour 1— li |2 1. for the first, 1 1. for each successive hour. A previous agreem^t should invariably be made. Boats to the larger steamers see p. 2b. The charges for conveying passengers to and from the smaller steam- boats which ply in the bay only (to Sorrento, Capri etc.) is 2 soldi. Those who do not give something in excess of this trifling sum will probably be mbjected to abuse. Commissionaires receive 5 1. per diem ; for a single walk 1 1. Those who are desirous of making purchases are recommended to dispense with heir services. ■oi 1 10 c., gratuity 10 c., subscription-prices lower: Strada della Pace, near Chiatanione ; by the Hotel de Rome S. Lucia • VICO Belle Donne a Chiaia 12. — Sea-hathing in summer bevond the Villa Seale. Large cabinet (preferable) 85 c. with towels, smaircabinet 45 c.: tee 0 c. Regular bathers may make an arrangement with the proprietor to be admitted to the former at a charge of 45 c. On entering the water )athers should take care to observe the number of their cabinet. — The )aths by S. Lucia and the Marinella cannot be recommended to trangers. ^ Booksellers. Detken S. winds are the most prevalent and are accompanied by rain. : from April to September N. or N. E. winds, during which the weather is generally bright and cloudless. Autumn and winter . are the rainy seasons ; the summer drought is extremely preju- dicial to the vegetation. Fogs are rare, hail occasionally falls in violent showers of very brief duration, snow almost unknown. Spring-water is neither abundant nor good. The ancients accor- t dingly constructed aqueducts for the supply of the inhabitants. ! At the present day a number of reservoirs , totally inadequate * for the supply of the city , are employed. The construction of . waterworks is contemplated. The city lies at the base and on the slopes of several • .slight eminences, rising amphitheatre-like from the sea. It is j divided into two unequal portions by the projecting angle of “Capodimonte , S. Elmo and Pizzofalcone , which terminates in the 1: narrow ridge surmounted by the Gastello dell’ Ovo. From Capodi- \ monte E. towards the Sebeto lies the greater and most ancient ' part of Naples, intersected from N. to S. by the Toledo, the I principal street, which is continued towards the N. in the Strada I nuova di Capodimonte. From either side of this street diverge f innumerable smaller streets and lanes , which in their turn are ^ intersected, though rarely by streets of importance, as near the Museum by the Piazza delle Pigne which terminates in the Porta - fS. Gennaro and the streets S. Carlo all’ Arena and Foria to the r. : then the Strada de’ Tribunali , leading to the Tribunali ^ and the Porta Capuana; and the Strada S. Trinith and S. Biagio ^ de Librai, leading to the Porta Nolana and thence to the railway ' ^ station. Towards the sea the Toledo is terminated by the square l.i^,in front of the palace (Largo del Palazzo Reale or del Plebiscito), 40 Route 4. NAPLES. Site. in which by the Church of S. Francesco di Paola is situated. E. of the palace rises the Castel Nuovo , adjacent to which are the arsenal and government harbour, then the pier (Molo Grande) with the lighthouse at the extremity. E. from the Molo Grande as far as the Castel del Carmine extends the harbour, a scene of the utmost animation, especially on the E. side, in the direction of the old market-place (Largo del Mercato) and the Porta del Carmine which lie on the way between the station and harbour. The business quarter of the city E. of the Toledo, extending to- the station and to the harbour, embraces at the same time the greater part of ancient Naples. W. of S. Elmo and Pizzofalcone, in a slight curve, extends the narrow and modern quarter known as La Chiaia^ preferable to all other situations on account of the freshness of the air and the beauty of the view. The broad Riviera di Chiaia skirts the sea, bounded on the N. by hand- some buildings and on the S. by the grounds of the Villa Reale. The animated Strada di Chiaia^ terminating near the palace, con- nects this part of the town with the Toledo. A second street, still unfinished , which bids fair to be the handsomest in Naples (il Corso Vittorio Emanuele) leads from the Strada Infrascata to the 1. by the Museum, passes by the hills below S. Elmo and terminates near the church of Piedigrotta, thus enclosing the W. half of the city. It is about M. in length and affords a se- ries of charming views. Adjacent to the Chiaia are the quarters of Piedigrotta and Mergellina on the W. From the former Poz- zuoli is reached by the Grotta di Posilipo. The Mergellina, on the other hand, continues to skirt the sea, along the slope of the Posilipo as far as its termination, and contains numerous delightful villas. The length of Naples from the Mergellina to the barracks at the mouth of the Sebeto is 3 M., the breadth from Capodimonte to the Castel dell’ Ovo 2^4 M. It contains upwards of 1300 streets and lanes, since 1840 lighted with gas, well paved, except as regards accommodation for foot-passengers. The squares are ter- med Larghi (the old names, such as Largo del Palazzo Reale and del Castello , are more familiar to drivers , porters etc. than the new official nomenclature. Piazza del Plebiscite and del Muni- cipio); the principal streets Strade^ cross-streets Vichi^ the narrow lanes ascending the hills and generally inaccessible to carriages, Catate or Satite ; when so precipitous as to require steps, Gradoni, Antiquities of the Graico-Roman period are far from numerous in the city itself. Of n^ediawal architecture, however, in additions to the churches, 5 forts (Castello S. Elmo, dell’ Ovo, Nuovo, del Carmine, Capuano) and 2 gates (Porta del Carmine and Capuana) are still in existence. The town has on the whole a modern aspect. The population is densely crowded , and it is now the Castel dell" Ovo. NAPLES. 4. Route. 41 anxious endeavour of the authorities to remedy the physical and moral evils thereby occasioned , by the construction of new and commodious dwellings. The following description of the objects of interests is arran- ged in the topographical order in which strangers are most likely to visit them; but those whose stay is brief are again reminded that as little time as possible should be devoted to the town itself. The Largo della Vittoria (PI. 26) in front of the Villa Reale, adorned Avith trees and a fountain, may be regarded as the cen- tral point of the strangers’ quarter. Thence, skirting the sea towards the E., an avenue soon leads to the Chiatamone , a row of handsome houses and hotels at the base of the Pizzo falconer an overhanging rock. On the opposite side to the r. lies the Castel delP Ovo, so called from its oval shape , rising from the small island which Pliny (H. N. III. 6) calls Megaris , and now connected with the main land by a long breakwater. Wil- liam I. erected the fort in 1154, and Frederick II. entrusted the construction of the edifice to Nicola Pisano. Charles I. enlarged the castle and frequently resided there. Robert the Wise (1309) caused the chapel to be adorned with frescoes by Giotto and superintended the work in person, but of these no trace is left. Here Charles III. of Durazzo (1381) kept queen Johanna I. pri- soner and was himself besieged. In 1495 Charles VIII. of France captured the castle , Avhich under Ferdinand II. was dismantled. It now possesses bastions and outworks , and is chiefly employed as a prison. The road between Pizzofalcone and the Castel dell’ Ovo, passing a small garden , now belonging to the New York Hotel , leads to S. Lucia, formerly a dirty street, but in 1846 enlarged and im- proved, so as to form a broad and pleasant quay. In January, 1868, a mountain-slip destroyed a number of houses situated at the foot of Pizzofalcone; the reiteration of similar disasters, it is to be hoped, will be prevented by the measures of the local authorities. Scenes of Neapolitan life may here be Avitnessed in perfection.""^ The female members of the community Avork chiefly in the open lair, go through their toilette and perform divers acts of devotion to their children unpleasing to the English eye , regardless of public gaze. In warm weather the children are usually in a state of more then semi-nudity. On the side next the sea the oyster- stalls are established, where sea-urchins, crabs and other delicacies so expressively termed fruiti di mare by the Neapolitans are also sold. The focus of this animated scene, however, is on the pro- montory below, Avhich is reached by a flight of steps and is ador- ned with a fountain with representations by Domenico d'Auria 42 Route 4, NAPLES. S. Francesco di Paola. and Giovanni da Nola. On line summer evenings , especially oi Sundays , this spot is densely crowded , and presents a highly characteristic picture of Neapolitan life. There is also an Oster a here and the favourite sulphureous spring (p. 30). At the extremity of S. Lucia the Strada del Gigante is as- cended to the 1. ; on the r. side the traveller looks down on th* stores of cannon and ammunition in the courts of the arsenal, which is connected with the Castel Nuovo and occupies the entire space between S. Lucia and the public harbour. In a straight direction is seen Fort S. Elmo, rising above the town , and a few steps farther the finest square in Naples is reached. The Largo del Palazzo Reale, since 1860 termed Piazza del Plehiscito , assumed its present aspect in 1810, after the demo- lition of four monasteries. To the r. is the Royal Palace, opposite is the Foresteria, a public building, on the other side the palace of the prince of Salerno, and on the fourth side, which forms a semi-circle, the church of Francesco with its dome and arcades. The equestrian statues in the square are those of Charles III. and P’erdinand I. of Bourbon, the two horses and the statue of Charles by Canova, that of Ferdinand, in a Roman toga, by CocG. S. Francesco di Faola (PI. 48), an imitation of the Pantheon at Rome, was constructed by Ferdinand I. from designs of Bianchi di Lugano in 1817 — 31. The Ionic vestibule is supported by 6 columns and two buttresses. The interior contains 30 Corinthian columns of marble from Mondragone which support the dome. The high altar , transferred hither from the church of the Apostles, is entirely inlaid with jasper and lapis lazuli; the two pillars- at the sides are of rare Egyptian breccia from S. Severino. The tribune above is for the reception of the royal family. The statues and pictures -are by modern masters. To the 1. of the entrance St. Athanasius by Angela Salaro ; Death of Joseph, Cammillo Guerra of Naples; St. Augustin, a sta- tue by Tommaso Arnaud of Naples ; Madonna della Concezione , Gaspare Landi; St. Mark, a statue by Fabris of Venice ; St. Nicholas , Natale Carta ■of Sicily; St. John, Tenerani. In the choir: St. Francis de Paula resus- citating a youth, Camuccini ; St. Matthew, a statue by Finelli; Last Com- munion of St. Francis of Castile, Pietro Benvenuti of Florence ; St. Luke, a statue by Antonio Cali of Sicily; St. Ambrose, by Tito Angelini of Naples; Death of St. Andrea da Avellino, Tommaso de Vivo; St. Chrysostom, a statue by Gennaro Cali. Palazzo Beale (PL 21), the royal palace, adjoining the Gastello Nuovo, erected from a design by the celebrated Domenico Fon- tana, was commenced in 1600 under the viceroy Count de Lemos, burned down in 1837 and shortly afterwards (1841) restored. The fa(;ade , 520 ft. in length, exhibits in its three stories the combined Doric and Ionic styles ; most of the arches of the base- ment, however, are filled up with masonry for the sake of in- creasing the strength of the building. Falnzzo Reale. NAPLES. 4. Route. 43 The magniflceiit staircase in the interior, adorned at the foot with statues of the Ebro and Tagus, was constructed in 1651. The state-rooms contain numerous modern pictures. Visitors apply to the porter , who conducts them (30 c.) to the office of the Intendant in the palace, where they receive (gratis) a card of admission for 6 pers., which is available also for the palaces of Capodi monte, Caserta , Favorita, Quisisana and the garden of Astroni , and must be exhibited in each case to the porter. Attendant’s fee 1 1. The visitor is first conducted to the garden-terrace . which affords a fine view of the harbour and the arsenal immediately below. In the centre a handsome marble table. Then to the apartments in the interior. The pictures which they contain are for the most part of no great artistic value. 1st antechamber: Holy Family, Spagnoletto. On this side, towards the piazza, are situated a small theatre and a superb dining-room. Beyond these, in the second room: John the Baptist, L. Caracci ; Christ in the Temple , Caravaggio ; Carita , Schidone. The * Throne-room is gorgeously furnished with crimson velvet and gilding. The em- broidery was worked at the extensive poor-house in 1818. The bas-reliefs represent the different provinces of the kingdom. Then a gallery containing handsome Sevres vases. 5th Room: A beau- tiful writing-table, presented by the city of Naples. In another apartment, Leonardo da Vinci parting with “The Last Supper”, Podesti. Then a room containing a portrait by Van Dyck , a * portrait of the Netherlands school. Usurer by Quintin Messys^ * Cardinal by Domenichino (?). Another room contains the * por- trait of an old woman, of the Netherlands school. Towards S. Carlo, in a small apartment filled with plants, stands the statue of Italia., erected in 1864 in commemoration of the universal suffrage of Oct. 21st, 1860, which added the king- dom of Naples to the dominions of Victor Emanuel. Connected with the Palace is the Theatre of San Carlo, foun- ded by Charles III. in 1737, and erected by the Neapolitan architect Angelo Carasale from designs by the Sicilian Giovanni Medrano. The interior was destroyed by fire in 1816, but has been restored in harmony with the original plan. It is one of the largest opera-houses in Italy, in which the choicest works of ancient and modern Italian composers are admirably executed. Many of the celebrated compositions of Rossini , Bellini , Donizetti and Merca- dante were here performed for the first time. The facade, resting on an arcade, is surmounted by a series of columns decorated with bas-reliefs. The spaces under the arches are occupied by public writers , ready at a moment’s notice to commit to paper the sigh of the lover or the expostulation of the creditor. 44 Route 4. NAPLES. S. Giacomo deg li SpagnuoLi. Farther to the r. is the small garden belonging to the palace, at the entrance ot which are two Horse-tamers , gifts from the Emp. Nicholas of Russia, and counterparts of those seen in front of the palace at Berlin. The long Piazza del Municipio , formerly named Largo del Gastello^ is next reached. At its extremity, to the 1., is situated the handsome town-hall. The Municipio , formerly Palazzo de' Minister i , was erected in 1819—25 from designs by Luigi and Stefano Gasse, At the principal entrance are the statues of the kings Roger and Frede- rick II. From this point a passage, occupied by vendors of all de- scriptions, leads to the Toledo; within it. to the r. , is the en- trance to the Exchange. Traversing this passage until a court with a fountain is seen on the r., crossing this to the outlet into a side-street, passing through a long, narrow passage and finally descending a flight of steps, the traveller reaches S. Giacomo degli Spagnuoli (PI. 52), erected in 1540 by Don Pedro de Toledo. The sumptuous *Tomb of the founder, be;hind the high altar, the master-piece of Giovanni da Nola, is adorned Avith statues of the cardinal virtues, bas-reliefs of the achievements of the viceroy and his statue in a kneeling posture with that of his wife. Inscription : -Petrus Toletus Friderici ducis Alv« films, ' Marchio Villtse Francae, Neap. Prorex, Turcar. hostiumque omnium spe sublata — vivens in ecclesia dotata, Ob. A. 1553. Vixit A. LXXIII. Maria Osorio, Pimentel conjux.” — Behind the latter, a monument of Hans Walther von Hiernheim, counsellor and general of Charles V. and Philip II. (d. 1557); inscrip, in Ger- man and Latin. Some of the pictures are by Bernardo Lama. Bernardino Siciliano, Marco da Siena etc. The church is at pre- ! sent undergoing a complete restoration. I On the opposite side , concealed by a row of houses , is the Gastello Nuovo (see below). Turning round to the r. towards the Strada del Molo , the broad Strada Medina opens to the 1. At its commencement rises the Eontana Medina, erected by the viceroy, Duke of Medina Celi (1695) and considered the finest fountain in Naples. It consists of a large basin, supported by 4 satyrs; in the centre Neptune Avith his trident surrounded by jets of water; at the base 4 Tritons on sea-horses, with water- spouting lions and other animals. Proceeding towards the harbour, the traveller observes to the L the Teatro del Fondo (p. 32) and other show-booths, where he will find as in other countries, the canvass glories outside are hardly realized on a visit to the interior; to the r. the CasUt Nuovo (access not always obtained without a previous discussion with tlie sentry). Castel Nuovo. NAPLES. 4. Route. 45 The Castel Nuovo was commenced in 1283 by Charles I of Vnjou from a design by Giovanni da Pisa and executed in the French fortification style of that period. Here the kings of the houses of Anjou and Arragon, and the Spanish viceroys succes- sively resided. Alfonso I. (1442) enlarged the edifice and idded 0 round towers , two of which were demolished in 1862 IS they held a threatening attitude towards the city. In 1546 Don Pedro de Toledo constructed new bastions. In 1735 Char- es III. gave it its present form. Turning to the r. through the barrack-yards, the visitor pro- ceeds to the entrance by the old Fort, where the * Triumphal ^rch , the finest monument of Naples, was erected in 1470 to ‘ommemorate the entry of Alfonso of Arragon (June 2nd, 1442) )y Pietro di Martino., a Milanese architect, or, according to Vasari, )y Giuliano da Majano. It is an archway with Corinthian co- umns on either side, frieze and cornice, above which is an attica containing well executed sculpture, representing the entry of Al- onso, by Isaia da Pisa and Silvestro delV Aquila; beneath is he inscription: “Alphonsus rex Hispanus Siculus Italicus plus lemens invictus”; above: ^‘Alphonsus regum princeps hanc con- hdit arcem”. The whole is surmounted by statues of St. Michael, )t. Antonius Abbas and St. Sebastian, beneath which are the cardinal virtues. The arch is in a confined situation between wo ancient towers and therefore too narrow in proportion to its leight. Beneath the arch are seen the bronze doors with repre- entations of the victories of Ferdinand I., by Guglielmo Monaco. V. cannon-ball imbedded in the masonry of the 1. wing is a eminiscence of the wars of the time of Gonsalvo da Cordova, adjacent to the entrance , to the r. , is the Armoury (Sala di . 1 . Luigi or Sala deUe Armi), formerly employed by the kings as reception-room, also as a theatre; foreigners not admitted ■nthout permission from the minister of war. Above it is a fothic chapel, containing an altar-piece by Spagnoletto : Fran- esco di Paola with 8 small pictures representing the miracles Tought by the saint at Naples. The church of S. Barbara or . Sebastiano , situated in the inner barrack-yard (custodian lives ,) the r. , in front of the triumphal arch; 1/2 possesses a -orinthian fagade by Giuliano da Maiano ; on the door a beautiful [adonna in relief. The choir, to the 1. behind the high altar, intains the celebrated * picture of the ^'Adoration of the Magi”, Jrmed by Vasari one of the finest paintings in the world and jcribed by him to Van Eyck; others attribute it to Lo Zingaro his pupils the Donzelli, because the features of the Magi bear I strong resemblance to those of Alfonso I., Ferdinand I. and pother contemporary, with which Van Eyck could not have been [cquainted. At the back of the choir a spiral stair-case of 158 46 Route 4. NAPLES. Porto MUitare. steps ascends to the top of the tower. A covered gallery con- nects the fort with the palace , destined for use in case of any sudden emergency or rebellion. In the vicinity is the Arsenal j erected in 1577 by the viceroy Mendoza, with the dockyard etc^, which are connected with the government harbour. The Porto Militare, commenced in 1826 under Francis I., 5 fathoms in depth, is enclosed by the old Molo on the N. and a strong breakw^ater on the S., which in a S.E. direction extends 1100 ft. into the sea. A number of vessels of w^ar, some of them iron-clad (corazzate), belonging to the Italian navy, which Of late has made great progress, are frequently stationed here, and may be inspected by strangers. As the Molo is approached, the government harbour , shut off by a gate, lies to the r. and to the 1. the commercial harbour Porto Grande, constructed in 1302 by Charles II. of Anjou at the same time as the Molo Grande , and provided with a light- house about the end of the 15th cent., w^hich w^as altered to its present condition in 1843. The harbour was enlarged by Charles III. ' in 1740. The animated and busy scene characteristic of a southern ‘ clime is here beheld. Boatmen invite foot-passengers to make' an excursion on the bay, which in fine weather is extremely en- joyable (previous understanding necessary! comp. p. 31). ' The Molo is terminated by a battery. The ascent of the ^'Lighthouse is strongly recommended, as it enables the visitor to form a very accurate idea with regard to the topography of the town (fee 1 1.). A commodious marble stair-case of 142 steps ascends to the gallery. The view embraces the government and commercial harbours; to the W. the Castel dell’ Ovo, Pizzo- falcone , Palazzo Reale wdth the dome of S. Francesco behind it, Casteilo nuovo, Strada del Molo, the city imposingly commanded by Fort S. Elmo with the monastery of S. Martino, numerous domes and towers, in the background the palace of Capodimonte, to the E. the tower del Carmine. The four red buildings wrhich lie higher up, beyond the precincts of the city , are barracks and magazines. Then the Campanian plain, bounded by the Apennines above Nola, Vesuvius, the bay and Capri. At the extremity of the Porto Grande, to the 1., is situated the Porto Piccolo , now employed for small boats only , because lialf-buried in the sand , once a portion of the most ancient har- bour of Palaiopolis , and where traces of a lighthouse still exist. | On the Molo Piccolo, in the vicinity, is now situated the Imma- colatella with the offices of the Sanith , and on the other side tlie custom-house. Having passed tlie [enclosure of the small boat harbour, the traveller may take the first cross-street to the !., proceed in a S.- Maria del Carmine. NAPLES. d. Route. 47 straight direction past 5 transverse lanes, and thus reach the ihurch of 8. Pietro Martire, which contains a few monuments of nterest. The last street but one to the 1. before S. Pietro is reached eads into the Strada di Porto ^ a scene, especially towards eve- ling, of the most motley bustle and confusion. Vendors of fish 4- oeat, maccaroni and refreshments of all descriptions cook their elicacies in the open street and attract numerous customers and hose who would be customers if they could. The fumes which rise may be described as ^'ancient and fish-like”; this is more- ver the dirtiest quarter of the town. The scene which the har~ our presents is far more pleasing, although not more characte- ■stic of Neapolitan life. The fishermen and boatmen with their hrygian caps and sunburnt , often handsome features , are the escendants of the Lazzaroni , a class of which the popular idea ; generally borrowed from the pages of the novel-writer, but hich may now be considered as extinct. The name is of Spa- ish origin. The lower classes of the present day (setting aside le varieties which pray on the stranger) are remarkable for their idustry and frugality. Pursuing his "walk along the harbour , the traveller soon per- fives to the^ 1. the Porta del Carmine, with its two huge round •wers, Fidelissima and La Yittoria. Over the entrance the bust Ferdinand I. Somewhat farther, at the E. extremity of the wn, rises the Castello del Carmine, a vast structure erected by erdinand I. in 1484. In 1647 during the rebellion of Masa- ello it was occupied by the populace. It was subsequently forti- id and now serves as a barrack and military prison. The Porta del Carmine leads to the Square of the same name^ which, to the r., is situated the church of *S. Maria del Carmine (PI. 59), containing the tomb of )nradin (beheaded when only 16 years old by Charles of Anjou), “t' aich was originally behind the high altar, bearing the simple scnption R. C. C. (Regis Conradini corpus). In 1847 Maximilian II. Bavaria , when crown-prince , caused a * Statue, by Schopf of unich from a design by Thorwaldsen, to be erected in the nave the church to the memory of Conradin. The pedestal bears a 'jrman inscription to this effect: ^^Maximilian , crown-prince of varia, erected this monument to a scion of his house, King nradin , the last of the Hohenstaufen”. The reliefs represent. 3 parting of Conradin from his mother the Princess Elizabeth, d his separation from Frederick of Baden at the place of exe- tion. Beneath lie the remains of the unfortunate prince. The ole is well executed and, placed as it is, most impressive, e same church is said to be the last resting place of Masaniello,. t this has been denied. ^ 48 Route 4. NAPLES. Palazzo Miranda. After the church is quitted, the Largo del Mercato is entered to the 1. Of the 3 fountains the largest is termed Fontana di Masaniello ^ to commemorate the rebellion of 1647. On Mondays and Fridays the market attracts numbers of people from all di- rections. This was the scene of the execution of Conradin, the last scion of his princely house, and of his relation Frederick of Baden, Oct. 29th, 1268. To penetrate farther into the interior of the town from this point without a guide, even with the aid of the plan of the town, is hardly advisable. A few of the places described below may therefore be visited by carriage. From the Largo della Yittoria fp. 41 ; PI. D 6), to the 1. in the direction of the town , the broad Strada S. Caterina is first reached, where in a triangular space to the 1. stands a marble column, destined to bear a statue of Dante. Adjacent, to the 1., is situated the Palazzo Miranda (PI. 19), now Ottajano, erected in 1780 by Barha, now the property of the princess of Ottajano , daughter of the duchess of Miranda, containing pictures by Spagnoletto, Guido Reniy Rubens f ^‘Triumph of beauty'Q and others. Thence to the animated Strada di Chiaia. "Where this street begins to ascend , it is crossed by the Ponte di Chiaia , a viaduct built in 1634, over which the Strada Monte di Dio leads from the •quarter of Pizzofalcone to the higher ground below S. Elmo. The Str. di Chiaia, which contains no object of note, leads into the Toledo opposite S. Carlo. This street, the great artery of the traffic of Naples, a busy scene at all hours, is from the Largo del Palazzo to the Museo Nazionale 1^4 M. in length. It was commenced by the viceroy Don Pedro of Toledo in 1540, but contains no building worthy of mention. After 10 min. walk, the Largo della Carita, a small square to the 1., is reached, op- posite to which is the entrance to the Piazza Montoliveto (p. 53). A short distance farther, at the corner to the r. where the street to the Largo della Trinita diverges, is situated the Palazzo Mad- d.aloni (entrance in the Str. Maddaloni), a massive structure with gateway and staircase from designs by Fansaga. The interior con- tains a hall of beautiful proportions, now occupied by the Bank of Naples, the ceiling of which is decorated with a fresco by Francesco di Mura., representing Naples besieged by Ferdinand I. of Arragon. Adjacent, separated by a cross-street, at the corner of the Toledo and the Strada Montoliveto^ is the Palazzo Angri (PI. 12), erected about the year 1773 by Luigi VanvitelU (former picture-gallery lately sold), the residence of Garibaldi when dictator in 1860. After a walk of 10 min. more the spacious Jjurgo di Santo Spirito ^ or del Mercatello^, which is at present undergoing considerable extension and improve-] Catacombs. NAPLES. 4. Route, 49 meiit, is reached. The circular shaped edifice, surmounted by a balustrade with 26 statues, was erected by the city of Naples in honour of Charles III.; the statues are intended as emblems of the virtues of that monarch. In 1861 it was converted into the Ginnasio Vittorio Emanuele. The large red building facing the traveller is the Museum (p. 64 and follg.). The continuation of the Toledo beyond the Museum is the Strada Nuova di Capodimonte^ which gradually ascends. The Ponte della Sanita , constructed in 1809, leads over the lower lying quarter della Sanita. Descending to the 1. beyond the bridge and, having reached the lower extremity of the lane, entering the winding Strada S. Gennarello , the traveller soon reaches the church of S. Gen- .naro dei Poveri , behind which is situated the entrance to the Catacombs (PL 4). Application for admission to them is made to the porter of the extensive poor-house, where several hundreds of old and infirm persons are gratuitously supported (strangers contribute a trifle to the funds of the establ. ; porter 25 c.). The church of S. Gennaro de’Poveri, founded in the 8th cent.C on the site of a chapel where St. Januarius was interred, is now completely modernized. In the rear is now the only entrance to" the Catacombs. Their extent is said to be very great, but after the fearful plague of 1656 when the dead were buried here, and at subsequent periods they have for the most part been filled up. They are remarkable for the width and height of the passages, in which respect they far surpass the Roman , though inferior in every other respect. They consist of a long series of passages and chambers, with innumerable niches (loculi), containing bones and emblems of the Christian faith , in 3 different stories con- nected by stairs. The two upper ones alone are now accessible. With regard to their original destination it has been satisfactorily proved that they were excavated by the early Christians as burial- places and for purposes of religion. The names in the inscriptions, as well as the nature of the representations in sculpture which have been discovered, and are now preserved in the Museum, -V- are all Christian : vine festoons, genii, grapes pecked at by birds, Christ as the Good Shepherd, bearing the lamb and pasturing the sheep, the stag, peacock, fish, dove, the emblem of the cross , angels etc. This subterraneous city of the dead has not maptly been termed the “Christian Pompeii”, as here an insight is obtained into the earliest history of our religion and the origin :»f Christian art. To the r. of the Ponte della Sanitk lies the Chinese College 'Collegio de’ Cinesi) ^ founded in 1772 by the Jesuit P. Ripa, ivhere missionaries for China are educated. I Baedeker. Italy III. 2d. Edition. 4 50 I^oute 4. NAPLES. Palazzo di Capodimonle. The main street next leads to a circular space , Avhere the carriage-road describes a long curve to the 1. , whilst footpassen- gers ascend the steps , and to the r. reach the entrance to the palace - garden of Oapodimonte. Fiacres as far as the Tondo di Capodimonte according to tariff. Palazzo di Capodimonte fPl. 14) (tickets of admission pro- cured at the Pal. Reale; attendant 1 1.; porter, a trifling gra- tuity), situated above the town to the N. on the eminence of that name, commenced in 1738 by Charles III., completed under Ferdinand 11. in 1834 — 39 , is a handsome rectangular structure, the gardens of which , laid out partly in the English style (but destitute of water), and commanding a fine view, are open to the public on Aug. 15th. Visitors are conducted through the public and private royal apartments, which contain a more exten- sive than valuable collection of pictures. They consist principally of family-portraits, review’s, battles etc. by modern native artists. Each room is provided with a catalogue. Those which most merit inspection are: 1st Room: 1. Wild boar hunt in the Bosco di Persano, Hackert; on the Lago Fusaro, by the same; 11. Marriage of the Duchess de Berri, Lemasle, 3rd R. : Death of Caesar, Ca~ muccini. 5th R. : Benvenuto Cellini at the Castello S. Angelo, Celentano ; Odysseus and Alkinoos, Hayez. In the centre a table with mosaic from Pompeii. 6th R.: Cleopatra at her toilet, Marinetti. 10th R. : *Portraits of the Duchess of Parma and Maria Theresa, Virginia Lebrun; * Ferdinand I. and his consort with their chil- dren, Angelica Kaufmann. — Also on the first floor a collection of armour (Armeria) , formerly preserved in the Pal. Reale, of which the only objects of interest 'are the ancient accoutrements of the kings Roger and Ferdinand I. , of Alexander Farnese, Victor Amadeus of Savoy etc. ; also the sword presented by Fer- dinand I. to the gallant Scanderbeg, and that sent by Louis XIV. to his grandson Philip when the latter acceded to the Spanish throne. In the vicinity of Capodimonte are the villas Meuricoffre^ Ruffo , Avelli and Forquet. Delightful walks and fine views in all directions. On the W. slope stands the * Villa Regina Isabella or Villa Gallo, founded in 1809 by the Duca di Gallo, subsequently the property of the queen from whom it derives its name, now in the possession of her second husband the Conte del Balzo. The summit commands a remarkably fine prospect of the city and bay. A pleasant walk is from the Villa Gallo through the valley be- tween Carnaldoli and the Vomero to the Lago d’Agnano, or to the I. to Fuorigrotta and the road to Bagnoli on the coast. The Strada Nuova di Miano skirts the park of Capodimonte and unites with the Capua road at Secondigliano. Quitting the Observatory. NAPLES. d. Route. 5J park and turning to the 1., the traveller may proceed by the out- ^irts of the city to the Porta S. Gennaro, or still farther to the of the Porta Capuar^a, an excursion most agreealw made by carnage (duration of whole excursion , inch visit to the palace and grounds, about 5 hrs. - Two hors; carr. 5-6 11 The summit of Capodimonte, 3/^ jj. ^ i^s occuped by the Observatory (L'Osservatorio Beale), popularly ta Miradois by the Spanish , foLLd in 81-, and enlarged in 1820 from plans by the celebrated Piazzi Piazzr?d"t8*n and under Lector M u reputation. The present director M. De Gaspans , has recently distinguished himself by the discovery of several small planets. ^ iiantL'of ^th^* f the base of Capodimonte, are visible the rem- nants of the *Aqua Julia, now termed Ponti Bossi , the great aqueduct constructed by Augustus. One branch suppli;d the Ly 01 Naples the other crossed the Vomero to the f.^ whence se- veral ramillcations diverged, some to the villas on the Posilipo another by Monte Olibano to Baiai and .Misenum, where it twl iiiinated in the Piscina Mirabilis. The cUy at present derives its drinkable water from two sources, the Acquadi Carmignano, conducted about the year 1600 rom S. Agata, 24 M. distant, and in 1770 united Lth that froin Caserta, and the shorter Aequa della Bolla, fed by springs bnt’^ntr *•’ /applying the lower quarters of the city, -eclnt i which have been bored i^ ecent times, have yielded no water lit to drink. a'n Museum, the traveller enters the .patioi b Largo delle Pi^gne, and proceeds by the broad Strada 5. .arlo all Arena to the Strada Foria, to which omnibuses run. liotank Garden, established in 1809, ex- lonfhn'" Contiguous in the Str. Foria is the extensive oor-house Albergo de Poveri or Beelusorio, begun by Charles III. s. * design by Fuga, and intended to comprise four inscription; ‘"Begium totius regni pauperum iOspitmrn . The structure , of which one side is destined for aen , the other for women , is still little more than half com- ■leteu. In this establishment and its dependencies about 5000 wsons are maintained. The city contains numerous other chari- ible institutions, about 60 in all, many of them richly endowed he cross streets to the r. lead from the Str. Foria to the Port^ apuana (p. o9). Naples contains about 300 Churches , most of them devoid of iterest The architecture and art displayed in the more ancient in the tasteless style of the 17th and 18th centuries, which opears to have here attained its highest perfection. They, how- 4 * 52 lioute 4. NAPLES. S. Maria la Nuova. ever, contain numerous monuments, important in the history of sculpture, and are so rich in historical and political associations, that a visit to some of the more important is indispensable to those ^vho desire more than a mere superficial acquaintance with Naples. They are generally closed about noon and not re-opened till the evening. *Llncoronata (PL 56), in the Str. Medina, to the 1. of the fountain , adjoining No. 39 (not always open) , was erected in 1352 by Johanna I. to commemorate her coronation and nuptials with her cousin Louis of Taranto, and made to comprise the chapel of the former Palais de Justice in which the marriage ceremony had been performed. This chapel contains admirable * Frescoes by Giotto^ the ‘‘Seven Sacra- ments and the Church”, to inspect which a platform to the 1. n^ear the entrance is ascended. In the arch over the window, to the r. the^rriumph of the Church” (in which king Robert and his son Charles are represented, attired in purple) , to the 1. the Extreme Unction. The next arch to the r. comprises: to the 1. Baptism, r. Fasting; then to the 1. Eucharist, r. Con- fession; then on the other side, 1. Ordination, r. Matrimony. Two half- figures in “Baptism”, one of which is crowned with laurel, are said to represent Petrarch and Laura, and in “Matrimony” Dante's features are alleged to be recognisable. The Chapel of the Crucifix , at the^ extre- mity of the 1. aisle, also contains frescoes in the style of Giotto, ascribed to Gennaro di Cola, pupil of Maestro Simone: to the 1. the Coronation of Jo- hanna I., her nuptials and other events in her life are represented; to the r. St. Martin, St. George, battles etc., all much damaged. The church contains numerous votive offerings for recovery from sick- ness and the perils of childbirth. Opposite to the church is situated the Palazzo Fondi (acces- sible by special permission of the prince only), constructed from plans by Vanvitelli , and containing a collection of pictures ; Martyrdom of St. Januarius, Calabrese; 4 *Landscapes, Salvator Rosa; Portrait of the poet Marini, Caravaggio; Mater dolorosa, Leonardo da Vinci; * Madonna del Cardellino, Raphael, duplicate of that in the Louvre; Diana and Calisto, Rubens; Portraits of himself, Rembrandt; Portraits of the Genoese family of Marini, Fan Dyck; Palace of the Inquisition at Madrid, Velasquez, etc. At the end of the Strada Medina the animated Str. S. Giuseppe is entered to the 1. After a few min. walk, a broad street to the r. leads to S. Maria la Nuova (PI. 61), in the square of that name, erected in 1268 by Giovanni da Pisa , restored in 159b by Franco and adorned with frescoes on the ceiling by Santafede and Simone Papa the younger, and on the dome (the 4 Fran- ciscan teachers : S. Bonaventura , Duns Scotus, Nicolaus de Lira and Alexander ab Alexaiidro) by Corenzio. In the 1st Chap, to the r. the “Archangel Michael”, formerly ascribed to Michael Amjelo. 3rd Chap.: Crucifixion, Marco da Siena. In the Chap. «lel Crocelisso frescoes by Corenzio. Tlie r. transept contains the «‘onunient of Galeazzo Sanseverino (d. 1477), with numerous basreliets of the loth cent. Monte Oliveto. NAPLES. 4. Route. 53 In the opposite chapel a beautiful crucifix in wood by Merliano. The se- cond chapel to the 1., of S. Giacomo della Marca, was erected by Gonsalvo da Cordova, “il gran capitano” , whose nephew Ferdinand placed on either side of the altar the monuments of his most distinguished enemies Pietro ^avarro (who strangled himself whilst imprisoned in the Gastello Nuovo) and the Frenchman Lautrec , general of Francis I. (who died of the plague in 1528 , whilst besieging Naples). The inscriptions , composed by Paolo Giovio, testify to the noble and chivalrous sentiments of that period. At the ' high altar is the monument of the Triventi family. The traveller may now return and pursue his route along the Str. Giuseppe, of which the Str. Montoliveto forms the continu- ation. Where the latter expands into a square stands to the r. the Palazzo Gravina , now the General Post-office (PI. 23), erected about 1500 by Ferdinando Orsini, Duca di Gravina, from designs by Gabriele P Agnolo. Notwithstanding it has been dis- figured by modern improvement, and suffered from a conflagration during the revolution of 1848, this is still the finest edifice in Naples. It once bore the graceful inscription of the founder: ^^Sibi suisque et amicis omnibus”. An ascent from this point to the 1. leads to *S. Anna de^ Lombardi or Monte Oliveto (PI. 66), in the square of that name, once a Benedictine monastery, erected in 1411 by Guerello Origlia, the favourite of king Ladislaus , from the designs of Andrea Ciccione. The monastery is now the property of the municipality; the garden, where in 1588 the poet Tasso was kindly received when ill and in distress, is now a market-place, whence the Toledo (p. 48) is entered. The church contains valuable sculptures. At the entrance, to the 1., the monument of General Giuseppe Trivulzio celebrated architect Domenico Fontana (d. 1607), who flourished in Rome under Sixtus V. 1st Chap, to the 1. (Piccolomini) : the ••Nativity, a relief by Donatello^ or, according to others, by his pupil Antonio Rossellino. Above it a * Singing Angel by Rossellino. The ■•■Monument of Maria of Arragon , natural daughter of Ferdinand I., wife of Antonio Piccolomini , duke of Amalfi , by Rossellino , a copy of the monument of the cardinal of Portugal in S. Miniato’s at Florence. The Ascension , a picture by Silvestro de' Buoni. — 1st Chap, to the r. (Mastro- giudici) : the Annunciation , a relief by Benedetto da Maiano. Several mo- numents, among which that of Marinus Curialis Surrentinus Terrenovae comes 1490, who founded this chapel. Alfonso I. composed the epitaph; “(^ui fuit Alphonsi quondam pars maxima regis Marinus modica hac nunc tumulatur humo”. — 5th Chap, to the 1. : John the Baptist, by Merliano. — The chapel of the Holy Sepulchre (by the r. transept) contains the tombs of Cardinal Pompeo Colonna , viceroy of Naples (d. 1532), and of Charles of Lannoy (d. 1527), general of Charles V. — Near the entrance to the S. cha- pels of the transept, a • group in terracotta by Modanino of Modena, repre- senting Christ in the Sepulchre, surrounded by 6 life-size figures in a knee- ling posture , all likenesses of contemporaries of the artist, Sannazaro as Joseph of Arimathaea, Pontanus as Nicodemus, Alphonso II. a^ John, beside 1 him his son Ferdinand. — The choir contains frescoes by Simone Papa the i younger. Monuments of Alphonso II. and Guerello Origiia by Giovanni da I Nola. I Retracing his steps from this point, and proceeding in a I straight direction through the Calata Trinita Maggiore , the tra- 54 Route 4. NAPLES. Santa Chiara. veller now reaches the square of that name, adorned with a lofty statue of the Virgin in the barock style, erected in 1748. To the 1. is situated Gesii Nuovo , or aS. Trinith Mayyiore , in the form of a Greek cross, .built in 1584, containing frescoes by So- Umena^ Stanzioni^ Spagnoletto and Corenzio , and overladen with marble and decorations. A furniture-magazine opposite the church, l^argo S. Trin. Maggiore 19, 20, contains the old refectory of the former monastery of S. Chiara^ adorned with a flue Fresco by Giotto^ representing the miraculous feeding of the 6000. Nearly opposite is * Santa Chiara (PL 42), originally a Gothic edifice erected by Robert the Wise in 1310, almost entirely rebuilt in the Romanesque style by Masaccio in 1318, and finally in 1752 richly and tastelessly decorated. At the same time Giotto’s celebrated frescoes were whitewashed , with the single exception of the Madonna delle Grazie mentioned below. The lofty and spacious interior of the church resembles a magnificent hall. To the 1. of the principal entrance is the monument of Oaofrio di Penna, secretary of king Ladislaus (d. 1322), with a relief of the Madonna and hermits by Bamboccio , converted into an altar. Above is a Sladonna on the throne and the Trinity, by Francesco]^ son of Maestro Simone (about 1300). — Of the principal paintings on the ceiling the first is by Bonito ; the second, David playing on the harp , by Seb. Conca ; the third , S. Clara putting the Saracens to flight, by Franceso di Nura. By the latter is also the high altar-piece (the Sacrament) and the painting over the principal entrance (king Robert watching the progress of the building of the church). The Sanfelice Chapel, the 8th to the 1., near the pulpit, contains a Crucifixion by Lanfranco , and an ancient sarcophagus with figures of Pro- tesilaos and Laodamia which serves as the tomb of Cesare Sanfelice , Duca di Rodi (d. 1632). — The following chapel of the family Longobardi de la Cruz Ahedo contains on the 1. side a monument of 1529 , on the r. one of 1853. The last chapel to the r. is the burial-chapel of the Bourbons, where six children of Charles III. are interred. At the back of the high altar is the magnificent * monument of Robert the Wise (d. 1343), executed by Masuccio. On the summit the king is re- presented seated on his throne , beneath in a recumbent posture , on a sar- cophagus in the garb of a Franciscan. The inscription: “Cernite Roberturn regem virtute refertum” is ascribed to Petrarch. On the r. side is the beautiful Gothic monument, also by Masuccio^ of his eldest son Charles, Duke of Calabria, who died in 1328, before his father. Still more to the r. that of Mary of Valois, his queen, sometimes erroneously supposed to be the monument of her daughter Johanna I. ^ historians of that period , how- ever, record that the latter, murdered by Charles of Durazzo in 1382, was interred in the church of St. Clara in an unknown spot, without any marks of distinction. To the 1. of the high altar is the monument of their second daughter Mary, sister of Johanna I., empress of Constantinople and Duchess of Durazzo, adorned with her imperial robes. By the wall to the 1., the lornb of Agnese and Clementia , the two daughters of the latter, the former also consort of a titular emp. of Constantinople, Giacomo del Balzo , princt' of Taranto. In the 1. lateral wall, the tomb of Mary , infant daughter of t’harles the Illustrious, who died in 1344. Near the side-door which leads out of the church, to the 1. the small hut graceful monument of Antonia Gaudino, who died in 1530 at the age of 11, on the day appointed for her marriage, with a beautiful epitaph by the p(,et Antonius Fpicitrits (d. 1555). By the 3rd pillar to the 1. the altar of the Madonna delle Grazie, the fresco of which is ascribed to Giotto, The S. Domenico. NAPLES. 4. Route. 55 Madonna della Pieta, to the r. by the main entrance, is by the same master, ihe 2nd Chap, to the 1. contains (on the r. side) the tomb of Gabriel Adurmi (d. lo72), admiral under the emp. Charles V.; on the 1. side two sarcophagi of the l4th cent. The pulpit, supported by four lions, is deco- rated with reliefs of the 13th cent. The Clock -tower (it Campanile) of S. Chiara is one of the , most successful works of Masaccio ^ or, according to others, of his pupil Giacomo de Sanctis, although of the projected 5 stories in ditferent styles of architecture, one only in the Tuscan style was completed. The second (Doric) was added in the 16th, the third (Ionic) at the commencement of the 17th cent. Farther on in the Str. Trinita Maggiore, the Largo S. Do- menico is soon reached on the 1., containing the palaces of Ca- mcalenda, Corigliano and S. Severo, and adorned with an obelisk {aguglia) in the barock style , surmounted by a bronze statue of the saint, executed by Vaccaro in 1737 from a design by Fansaga. *S. Domenico (PI. 45), erected by Charles II. in 1285 in the Oothic style from the design of Masaccio the elder, is, notwith- standing the subsequent alterations it has undergone (the last in 1850—53), one of the finest churches in Naples. The lofty in- terior, with its nave and aisles, 2 g chapels and 12 altars, hand- some columns and rich gilding, is remarkably imposing. Unfor- tunately the flat ceiling of the 18th cent, does not harmonize well with the rest of the edifice. The most illustrious princes of Naples have for centuries possessed chapels here , containing numerous monuments. The principal entrance is to the 1, in the court of the Pretura, in the Vic. S. Domenico. The church is accessible 7 — 11 a. m. only. Chap. (S. Martino) of the Saluzzo, formerly of the Carata family contains an altar piece (Madonna with S. Martin and S. Do- minic), adjoining which are several monuments of the Carafas by Andrea da Salerno; the rococo monument of General Filippo Saluzzo (d. i852) and that of Galeotto Carafa (d. 1513) with medallion. — 2nd Chap. : altar-piece . monument of Archbishop Bartolommeo Brancaccio 1 1 ' ~ Chap. : the badly preserved frescoes of this chapel , w’hich also belongs to the Brancaccio family, represent the Crucifixion, Supper at Fmmaus , Rpurrection , Mary Magdalene and John the Baptist , by Agnolo Franco. — ^^h Chap, of the Capece : altar-piece, Crucifixion by Girolamo ■tapece. — " Gh Chap, del Crocefisso , contains important monuments. Be- I neath the principal altar a relief of the ’"Crucifix by Tommaso de' Stefani, which according to tradition, thus addressed Thomas Aquinas : “Bene scrip- )i8ti de me, Thoma : quam ergo mercedem recipies?” To which the saint replied: “Non aliam nisi te.” Pictures on each side of the altar: on the r., dearing the Cross by Gian Vincenzo Cor so; on the 1., Descent from the Cross Dy Antonio Salario (lo Zingaro), ascribed by some to Alb. Diirer. To the 1. j )f the altar the monument of Francesco Carafa hy Agnello del Fior'e, on the >pp. side another by the same master, completed by Giovanni da Nola. The [ im^l chapel to the 1. of the altar contains the tomb of Ettore Carafa, Conte i 1 Ruvo (d. 1511) with warlike emblems and arabesques. The Madonna lella Rosa is ascribed to Maestro Simone. On the opp. side the beautiful J monument of Mariano d’Alagni , Count Bucchianico, and his wife Catari- I lella Orsini, by Agnello del Fiore. Adjacent to it, to the r., the monument 56 Route 4. NAPLES. S. Domenico. of Niccolo di Sangro , Principe di Fondi , hy Domenico d'^Auria. — At tlie entrance to the sacristy , monuments of members of the family of Thomas Aquinas. The ^Sacristy contains a painting on the ceiling by Solimena; an Annunciation at the altar by Andrea di Salerno; 45 large sarcophagi of wood with scarlet covers, ten of which contain the remains of princes of the house of Arragon. Among these are Ferdinand I. (d. 1494); Ferdinand II. (d. 1496); his aunt, queen Johanna, daughter of Ferdinand I. (d. 1518)^ Isabella (d. 1524), daughter of Alphonso II. and wife of the Duke of Milan etc. The coffin of Alfonso I. (d. 1458) still exists , but his remains were conveyed to Spain in 1666. Also the coffin of Fernando Francesco d'Avalos^ Marchese di Pescara , the hero of Ravenna and Pavia , who died of his wounds at Milan in 1525. The inscription is by Ariosto. Above the tomb are suspended his portrait, a banner and a sword. His wife was the cele- brated Vittoria Colonna , who after his death sang his praises in the island of Ischia (p. 102). Near this are the three sarcophagi of the wife and two- children of Count Agar de Mosbourg (d. 1844 at Paris) , minister of finance under Murat. In the r. Transept the chapel of St. Hyacinth contains the ’’'monu- ment of Galeazzo Pandone by Giovanni da Nola. ~ From the r. transept a door leads into a portion of the older church , containing some interesting, monuments, especially that of Porzia Capece , wife of Bernardino Rota , by Giovanni da Nola. — The "'High Altar of Florentine mosaic was executed in 1652 from a design by Cosimo Fanzaga. By the altar, to the 1., the -monument of Francesco Carafa (d. 1470), by Agnello del Fiore. To the r. another, completed by Giovanni da Nola. In the 1. Transept, above the chapel of the Pignatelli , the monuments of Giovanni di Durazzo (d. 1323> and Filippo di Taranto (d. 1335) , sons of Charles III. , with a long inscrip- tion in leonine verse. — The 8th Chap. (S. Maria della Neve) in the 1. Aisle contains above the altar a beautiful ' haut-relief with a statue oli the Virgin, attended by St. Matthew and St. John, the best work oi Giovanni, da Nola , executed in 1536. Here is also the monument of the poet Giam- battista Marini of Naples (d. 1625), well known for his bombastic style ; his bust by Bartolommeo Viscontini , originally placed in the monastery by king Joachim in 1813. — The 7th Chap., of the Ruffo Bagnara family, contains Martyrdom of S. Catherine, by Leonardo da Pistoja; the tombs of Leonardoi Tomacelli and of Cardinal Fabricio Rutfo (d. 1829) whose name plaved a conspicuous part in the events of 1799. — In the 6th Chap, tombs of the Carafa, in the 5th of the Andrea, in the 4th of the Rota family. The latter ! contains a ’'statue of St. John by Giovanni da Nola as a monument to the ! poet Bernardino Rota (d. 1475), with the figures of the Arno and the Tiber by Domenico d'^Auria (1600). — The 3rd Chap, to the 1. contains: Martyrdom , of St. John by Scipione Gaetano; tomb of Antonio Carafa, surnamed Ma- ! lizia (d. 1438). — The 2nd Chap. , in the bad taste of the 17th cent. , con- ' tains the miracle-working Madonna di S. Andrea. — In the 1st Chap, to the 1. by the entrance (S. Stefano) : Christ crowning Joseph, by Luca Giordano; on the lateral walls an Adoration of the Magi, ascribed to Albert Diirer; : Holy Family by Andrea da Salerno. \ In the adjacent monastery in 1272 lived the celebrated Thomas Aquinas ! as professor of philosophy at the university which was then founded. | Charles 1. directed that he should receive a salary of one ounce of gold per month. Men of the highest rank, even the king himself, were among his auditors. His cell, now a chapel, and his lecture- room are still shown. The latter is now emidoyed as a place of meeting by the Academia Ponta- niana., founded in 1471 by the erudite Giovanni Pontano, a native of Cer- retto or Ponto in Umbria, state-secretary under Ferdinand I. and tutor of the Duke of Calabria (d. 1530). The society, reconstituted in 1817, con- tains 5 classes for mathematics, moral and political science, history and literature of anticiuity, Italian history and literature and the fine arts. It consists of a limited number of native and of non-resident members. University. NAPLES. 4. Route. 57 In the vicinity (Calata di S. Severe) is situated S. Maria della Pieta de" Sangri , commonly called La Cappella di San Severo (PI. 74) (ascending on the r. side of S. Domenico, taking the first lane to the r. , and then the first to the 1., at the beginning of the latter in a shop opposite the visitor will find the keys; fee 1/2 1.), erected in 1590 by Francesco di Sangro, extended in 1613 by Alessandro di Sangro, patriarch of Alexandria and archbishop of Benevento , a^ a burial-place for the Sangro family, then in 1760 lavishly decorated with gold and sculpture by Raimondo di Sangro, Principe di Sansevero. Nowhere in Naples is such egre- giously bad taste displayed as in the exaggerated magnificence, and the unnatural and laboured allegories, with w^hich this chapel is replete. It does not fail, however, to attract numbers of won- dering admirers, and certainly displays great skill of workmanship. The principal of these allegories is the “Man in the net”, from which with the aid of reason (a crowned genius) he disentangles himself, therefore termed il disinganno^ a work of Francesco Queirolo of Genoa. It contains an allusion to Antonio di Sangro, who renounced the world and became a monk, after having lost his beloved wife Cecilia Gaetani. The latter is represented as Pudicitia, nude, but slightly veiled, the work of Antonio Conradini of Venice. — The altar-piece is a Descent from the Cross, by Francesco Celehrano of Naples. — As anpther instance of extraordinary per- version of taste may be mentioned the figure of Christ enveloped in a winding sheet and laid out in a chapel fitted up for the purpose. From this point (or by S. Domenico to the r.) the side-street may be ascended, which leads to the Str. de’Tribunali where the cathedral and other important churches (p. 60) are situated. The traveller, however, may prefer to return to the Largo S. Domenico, in order to pursue his route along the Str. Trinita Maggiore , the continuation of which is the Str. Nilo and, farther on, the Str. S. Biagio de’Librai. Immediately to the r. is S. Angelo a Nilo, erected in 1385; in the interior, to the r. of the high altar, the monument of the founder Cardinal Brancaccio (d. 1428), by Donatello and Michelozzo. The Str. Salvatore (second from the Largo S. Domenico to the r.) leads hence to the not far distant University (PI. 32) (Regia Universita degli Studj) founded in 1224 by the Emp. Frederick II., in 1780 reconstituted and removed to the Jesuits’ College. It is one of the most ancient in Europe and was the only one in the kingdom of Naples; it possesses 5 faculties, 25 professorial chairs, a library, and natural historical collections of which the mineralogical is the most valuable. The use of the library, admirably arranged by Tommaso Gar, is readily granted to strangers from 9 to 3 daily. The Court contains the statues of Pietro della Vigna, chancellor of Frederick II., Thomas Aquinas, G. B. Vico and Giordano Bruno, erected in 1863. In a straight direction from the university a side-street leads to the richly decorated church of S. Severino e Sosio (PI. 75), in 58 lioiite i. NAPLES. CdsteUo Capufino. the Largo S. Marcellino. It contains frescoes by Corenzio who is here interred. The choir-stalls are beautifully carved. • the choir to tlie r. is tlie chapel of the Sanseverini, contain- ing three monuments of three brothers, who were poisoned by their uncle in 101b, works of Gtovanm da Nola. In a chapel near the choir to the r the tomb of Carlo Troya (d. 1858). In the 1. transept, the monuments of ^ Carafa (d. 1611) and the Duca Francesco de Marmilis (d. lb4U). By the entrance to the sacristy, in the last chapel of the r. transept, the tomb of a child, Andreas Bonifacio, ascribed to Merliano- opposite to it IS that of Giambattista Cicara, by the same master, with in- scriptions by Sannazaro. The court of the monastery at the back of the church contains a venerable plane-tree, said to have been planted by St. Benedict’s own hand; a fig-tree is grafted on it. The cloisters, the work of Andrea (iccione (entrance ascends to the 1. by the church, gate- way to the r. ; permission to enter must be obtained from the keeper of the archives; fee 1 l.j, contain 19 ^Frescoes by Lo Zingaro ^ his best work, but considerably damaged, representing scenes from the life of St. Benedict. The monastery in the vici- nity has since 1818 been the depository of the Archives of the kingdom, among the most valuable in the world. Frescoes and paintings by Corenzio adorn the interior. The 40,000 parchment MSS. (the oldest are in Greek) date from 703 to the Norman, Hohenstaufen, Anjou, Arragonian and Spanish periods. The docu- ments of the Anjou period are especially numerous. Beturning to the principal street hitherto followed, the tra- veller now pursues his route along its continuation, S. Biagio de’ Librai. To the r. the Mont de Piete, or public loan-establishment ; then several churches and palaces of little importance. One of these. No. 120, the Palazzo Santangelo, formerly contained a valuable collection of antiquities, now in the Museum (p. 76). The Picture Gallery is accessible by permission of the March. Santangelo. 4he 1st Room contains modern Neapolitan pictures. — 2nd R. : Agnello Fal- Battle-piece ^ Santafede^ Madonna with SS. John and Andrew; Cav. Massimi^ Infant Christ asleep; Gent. Bellini.^ two oriental portraits. — 4th R • Durer, Garland- weaver, 1508; Van Dyck, Body of Christ. — 5th R. ; School of Van Eyck, Madonna (a tempera); Rubens, Portrait of himself and Van Dyck; Giulio Romano (V), Madonna; Sandro Botticelli, Madonna; Wohl- gemuth, Death ot Mary, painted in 1479 for the Volkamer family at Nuremberg. After a walk of about 10 miii. the street divides: to the r. 8. Egeziaca a Forcella leads to the Porta Nolana; to the 1. is the 8tr. Arinuuziata with the church of Annunziata , erected in 1757 —82 by Yanvitelli (frescoes by Corenzio: tomb of the profligate queen Johanna 11. ). This street is continued by the Str. Madda- lena and leads to the square by the Porta Capuana. Mere to the 1. is the Gastello Capuano (PI. FG3), founded by William L, completed by hrederick 11. in 123l from a design by Fuccio y the principal Protestant Cemetery. NAPLES. 4. Route. 59 residence of the Hoheiistaufen Kings and occasionally of those of Anjou. In lo40 Don Pedro de Toledo fp. 48^ transferred the difterent courts of justice to this palace , where they remain to this day, whence the name I Trihunali , a visit to which affords an admirable insight into the Neapolitan national character. The prison of La Vicaria ^ of evil repute, is under the jurisdiction of the criminal court. The Porta Capuana bears the coat of arms of Ferdinand I. of Arragon, its founder, but was restored and re-decorated with sculpture in 1535, on the entry of Charles V. The towers on each side bear the inscriptions ‘"L’Onore” and Virtu” respectively. Without the gate are situated the Cemeteries (Campi Santi), of which the new, situated on the road 1^2 M. from the gate, deserves a visit (one-horse carr. from the gate there and back, IV 2 — 3 1.). It was laid out by the French, extended in 1737 at the time of the cholera , and occupies a most beautiful situation, commanding delightful views of Naples , the sea and Vesuvius, where the black lava streams of 1850 and 1855, which threatened to destroy the villages of S. Jorio and Somma, may distinctly be recognized. Ihe cemetery contains comparatively few monuments of single individuals, but a large number erected by guilds and societies, many of them imposing, but displaying little taste. The Church., built in the form of a Doric temple, stands on an eminence ^ in the tribune a Pieta by Gennaro Cali. At the back of the church a rect- angular space enclosed by a Doric colonnade ^ in the centre a colossal statue of Religion by Tito Angelini., erected in 1836. In this hall are the entrances to 102 private chapels, beneath which are the family vaults. In the vicinity stands the small Capuchin monastery of S. FerdinandOy in the Gothic style. On the W. slope, in the rear of a marble pyramid to the memory of Giro- lamo Ruffo, are the graves of several eminent men ; the composer Niccolo Cingarelli (d. 1837), the surgeon Francesco Petrunti, the scholars Giuseppe del Re and Raffaele Liberatore etc. The cemetery presents a most animated and interesting spec- tacle on All Souls’ Day (Nov. 2nd). — The old cemetery (campo ; Santo vecchio) is equally distant from the town (the main street is quitted before the Porta Capuana is reached, by the 2nd tur- ning to the 1.). It is now used for the interment of the poor I only, for which two extensive enclosed courts with 365 vaults, jOne for every day in the year, are destined. , The Protestant Cemetery, at the small Largo di 8. Maria ' della Fede ^ outside the Porta Capuana (from the gate 5 min. in |i straight direction; at the end of the square the Vico Caval- I :atore to the 1. leads to the Largo della Fede on the r. ; entrance [ . of the church, fee 1/2 1.) is well laid out. Numerous English, American, German, Russian and other names may be recognized. The Margravine Elizabeth of Ansbach-Baireuth (Lady Berkeley, d. 1828) s interred in the same grave with her son and her friend Sir William 60 Route 4. NAPLES. Cathedral. Gell. Lady Coventry, vv^ife of General W. Pepe. The poet JIatthias, neaj the entrance, etc. etc. From the Porta Capuana the broad Strada Carbonara leads to the r. (as the town is approached) to S. Carlo all’ Arena, whence to the 1. beyond the Largo delle Pigne the Museum may be reached. Where the street contracts, to the r. rises *S. Giovanni a Carbonara (PI. 54), erected in 1344 from a design of Masuccio and enlarged by king Ladislaus , whose * monument, the master- piece of Andrea Ciccione ^ erected by his sister Johanna 11. in 1414, stands at the back of the high-altar. Above is the eque- strian statue of Ladislaus ; in a recess beneath , a sarcophagus with the king in a recumbent posture, receiving the benediction of a bishop; underneath, Ladislaus and Johanna; the whole is supported by statues which represent the virtues of the deceased. The Chapel del Sole, behind this monument, contains the *Tomb of Sergianni Caracciolo, favourite of Johanna II., murdered in 1432, also byl A. Ciccione. Inscription by Lorenzo Valla. The frescoes, scenes from thej life of Mary, are by Leonardo da Busiccio of Milan, one of the last pupils of Giotto. — The chapel of the Caraccioli Rossi, 1. of the high-altar, a cir- cular temple from the design of Girolamo Santacroce, contains statues of 4 apostles. The monuments of Galeazzo to the 1., and of Colantonio Carac- ciolo opposite are by Scilla and Dom. d'Auria respectively. — The Sacristy contains frescoes of New Testament scenes by Vasari, 1546. The chapel of the Somma family at the opposite end of the church, now depository of archives, is adorned with fine frescoes. — Near S. Giovanni a Carbonara was once the arena for gladiator-combats, at which in the time of Johanna I. and king Andreas Petrarch was a horror-stricken spectator. And now back to the Tribunal! and to the r. through the animated Str. de’ Tribunal! , which running parallel with the Str. Trinita Maggiore and its prolongations, also terminates in the Toledo. The small square of S. Gennaro on the r. is soon reached, ' the column in which was erected after the appalling eruption of ’ Vesuvius in 1631 (p. 108). On the summit is the bronze figure of the saint by Finelli; beneath, the inscription: ^^Divo Januario patriaB regnique praestantissimo tutelar! grata Neapolis civi opt. mer. excitavit.” The flight of steps ascends to the * Cathedral (PI. 46), il Duomo or V Arcivescovado., commenced in 1272 by Charles I. of Anjou, from a design by Mamccio, on the site of a temple of Neptune, with lofty towers and pointed arches , situated between the Str. de’ Tribunali and Str. dell’ Anticaglia. Robert, grandson of the founder, completed the edi- fice in 1316. In 1456 the church was almost entirely destroyed by an earthquake, and subsequently rebuilt by Alfonso I. Since that period it has undergone frequent alterations and restorations, the last in 1837. It still, however, retains many of its original characteristics. Santa Restituta. NAPLES. 4. Route. 01 The edifice is a basilica, the aisles of which have a Oothic vaulting. \ The ceiling-paintings of the nave are by Santafede (of a square shape) and Vincenzio da Forti (oval) ; the frescoes on the upper part of the lateral walls are by Luca Giordano and his pupils. St. Cyril and St. Chrysostom are by Solimena. Over the principal entrance are the tombs of (1.) Charles I. of Anjou and- (r.) Charles Martel, king of Hungary, eldest son of Charles II. , and his wife Clementia, daughter of Rudolph of Hapsburg, erected by the viceroy Olivarez in 1599. — The 2nd Chapel (Brancia), next to that of St. Januarius (see below), contains the tomb of Cardinal Carbone, by Bam- '' boccio-., then in the chapel of the Carraccioli the monument of the cardinal of that name (d. 1668). At the back of the transept, to the r., the entrance to the "Chapel of the Minutoli (open 1^2- 9 a. m. only), constructed by Masuccio., the upper portion adorned with paintings by Tommaso dei Stefani in the 13th cent., the lower part by an unknown master; monument of the cardinal by Bam- boccio'^ altar by Pietro dei Stefani. — The adjoining Tocca Chapel contains ' the tomb of St. Asprenas, one of the first bishops of Naples. Beneath the high-altar the richly decorated "Shrine of St. Januarius, „with ancient columns and beautiful marble covering; within is the tomb of the saint, facing it, to the 1., the kneeling figure of the cardinal Oliviero Carafa, who erected the chapel in 1492— 1506. — Fresco on the ceiling of the choir by Domenichino., the Adoration of the Angels. — The Gothic chapel of the Capece Galeota, to the 1. of the high-altar, contains an ancient By- zantine painting, Christ between St. Januarius and St. Athanasius. — In the transept, by the door of the sacristy, the tombs of (r.) ; Innocent IV (d. 1254 , at Naples), erected by the archbishop Umberto di Montorio in 1318, restored in the 16th cent. ; Andreas, king of Hungary, who was assassinated by his queen Johanna I. at Aversa, as the inscription records : “Andreee Caroli Uberti Pannonise regis f. Neapolitanorum regi Joannse uxoris dolo laqueo necato Ursi Minutili pietate hie recondito” ; (1.) : Pope Innocent XII. (by , Pignatelli of Naples ; d. 1696). — In the following Chapel (de’ Seripandi) : [ ^Ascension of the Virgin, by Pietro Per ugino (1460). — Then the entrance to Santa Restituta (see below). — In the 2nd chapel : Entombment, a relief by Giovanni da Nola ; above it St. Thomas, by Marco da Siena. — In the vicinity ^ is the Font, an ancient basin of green basalt, with Bacchanalian thyrsi and masks. Contiguous to the cathedral on the 1. and accessible (fee V2l-) from it by a door in the 1. aisle is the church of * Santa Resti- tuta (PI. 71) , a basilica in the Greek style , occupying the site of a temple of Apollo , to which it is probably indebted for the ancient Corinthian columns in the nave. The foundation, erroneously attributed to Constantine the Great, dates from the 7th cent. In the 17th cent, it was restored. In the Chapel S. Maria del Principio, at the farther extremity, to the 1., an ancient ^mosaic of the Virgin with St. Januarius and St. Reslituta, restored in 1322, and considered the earliest in Naples; whence the name del Principio. On the lateral walls two remarkable bas-reliefs, supposed to have once belonged to a pulpit of I the 8th cent., each in 15 compartments; to the 1. the history of Joseph; to I the r. above, St. Januarius, then Samson; beneath, St. George. — At the back of the high-altar the Virgin with St. Michael and S. Restituta, by j Silvestro Buono. — The small dome of the chapel S. Giovanni in Fonte to j the r., alleged to have been erected by Constantine in 333, formerly the I baptistery of the church, is adorned with mosaics of the 13th cent. ; Christ, I the Virgin etc. — The altar-piece, the Baptism of Christ, by Silvestro Buono. \ — On the ceiling of the nave a fresco by Luca Giordano : the body of S. I Restituta conveyed by angels in a boat to Ischia. Opposite to the entrance to S. Restituta, in the r. aisle of the cathedral, is the * Chapel of St. Januarius , called CappelLa 02 lioute 4. naplp:s. r (ippelln del Tenoro. del Tesoro (may be visited at leisure towards 12, the hour for closing the church). It was commenced in 1608 in consequence of a vow made during the plague of 1527, and completed in 29 years at a cost of 1,000,000 ducats. The white marble front, with two large greenish columns , bears the inscription : ^Tlivo Januario e fame bello peste ac Vesevi igne miri ope sanguinis erepta Neapolis civi patrono vindici.’’ It forms a Greek cross, richly decorated with gold and marble, contains 8 altars, 42 columns of broccatello, magnificent doors, 5 oil-paintings on copper by Domenichino^ and several frescoes of scenes from the life of S. Gennaro. The first four representations, however, alone (tomb of the saint ^ his martyrdom *, resuscitation of a youth ; sick persons healed by oil from a lamp which had hung before the tomb of the saint) are entirely by Dome- nichino, who along with Guido Reni and Lanfranco, intimidated by the threats of their jealous Neapolitan rivals Spagnoletto and Corenzio, abandoned the task of painting the dome. — The Sacristy of the Tesoro contains pictures by Stanzioni and Luca Giordano-^ a costly collection of ecclesiastical vest- ments and sacred vessels; the silver bust of S. Januarius, executed for Charles II. in 1306; 45 other busts in silver of the patron saints of the city, and other valuable relics. — In the tabernacle of the high-altar, which is adorned with a carefully covered relief in silver representing the arrival of the saint's remains, are preserved two vessels containing the blood of St. Januarius (S. Gennaro), bishop of Benevento, who according to tradition was exposed to lions in the amphitheatre of Pozzuoli by order of Diocletian in 305. These animals however crouched submissively at his feet. Dracon- tius, proconsul of Campania, or his substitute Timotheus, then caused the holy man to be beheaded, and his remains were interred at Pozzuoli. Under Constantine the bishop St. Severus caused the body to be conveyed to Naples and re-interred in the church of St. Januarius extra 3Ioenia. Shortly after this a woman brought him two phials containing a quantity of the saint’s blood, which immediately became liquid as he received it. In 817 the remains of St. Januarius were conveyed to Benevento, thence in 1159 to 3Ionte Vergine, and finally at the time of a plague in 1497 solemnly trans- ported to Naples by the archbishop. Cardinal Alessandro Carafa and depo- sited in the cathedral. The Liquefaction of the saint's blood is the greatest festival of Naples and takes place three times annually during several successive days (1st Sunday in 3Iay, Sept. 19th and Dec. iGth). The protection of the saint is invoked during seasons of war or distress, and especially during eruptions of 3It. Vesuvius. A number of old women, the reputed* descendants of S. Gennaro, occupy the place of honour on these occasions. Delay on the part of the saint to work his miracle occasions profound disappointment to the eagerly expectant throng, and calls forth a torrent not only of prayers and lamentations, but also of the wildest threats and reproaches, to which the saint invariably yields. Contiguous to the cathedral, and facing the Largo Donna- regina and the Str. Angelica, is the extensive Archiepiscopal P(dac.e^ erected in the 13th cent., entirely restored by Cardinal Filomarino in 1647. In the great hall is preserved an ancient Neapolitan almanac, found in the 18th cent, in the walls of S. Ciovanni Maggiore. Farther on in the Str. Anticaglia are the remains of an an- cient Tfieatre , once apparently of considerable extent , of which two arches still exist. S. Filippo Neri. NAPLES. 4. Route. 03 We now return to the Str. de’ Tribunal!. After a walk of a few yards, the small Largo ^Gerolomini is seen on the r., with the church of S. Filippo Neri (PI. 47) or de’ Gerolomini, erected in 1592, and overladen with ornament. Over the principal entrance : Christ and the money-changers, a large fresco by Zwca Giordano high altar-piece by Giovanni Bernardino Sicilianox lateral paintings by Gorenzio. The sumptuous chapel of S. Filippo Neri, to me 1. of the high-altar, contains a ceiling-fresco by Solimenax and that of St. Francis of Assisi (4th chap, to the 1.) a painting by Guido Beni. Near the latter, art the base of a pillar in the nave, is the tombstone of the learned Giambattista Vico, b. at Naples 1670, d. 1744. The sacristy (entrance to the 1.) also contains good paintings. The neighbouring monastery possesses a valuable library and MSS. A short distance farther, to the r. is situated S. Paolo Mag- giore (PI. 67), opposite S. Lorenzo, occupying the site of an ancient temple of Castor and Pollux, of which two beautiful Corinthian columns and a portion of the architrave are still to be seen. The church was destroyed by an earthquake in 1688, and rebuilt three years later from a design by the Theatine Grimaldi; it contains numerous decorations in marble and paintings by Corenzio^ Stanzioni, Marco da Siena and Solimena. In the 4th chapel to the 1. the monument of Cardinal Zurlo (d. 1801) with a statue. The 5th chapel contains cabinets in which 52 relics of saints are preserved in velvet and gold cases. In the 2nd chapel to the 1. the monument of the minister Donato Tommasi (d. 1831). The cloisters j are said to occupy the site of the ancient theatre, in which Nero appeared as an actor. They possess 24 ancient granite columns. During the Roman period this was the central point of the city. On the opposite side of the street, in the small square of this name, is situated the Gothic church of *S. Lorenzo, com- menced by Charles I. of Anjou in 1266, to commemorate his victory over king Manfred at Benevento (p. 171), and completed by Robert in 1324. The site is that of the ancient Basilica Augustalis. The plan w’as designed by Maglione , a pupil of Nicola Pisano, but was altered by Masaccio, in the style peculiar to that architect. The three statues of St. Francis, St. Lawrence and St. Antony and the bas-reliefs on the high-altar are by Giovanni da Nola (1478) ; St. Antony, in the chapel of that saint in the 1. transept, on a gold ground, and the Corona- tion of king Robert are by Maestro Simone. Jesus and St. Francis, a large pcture over the principal entrance, is by Vincenzo Corso. In the choir behind the high-altar, entering on the r., are the monuments of: (1) Cathe- rine of Austria, first wife of Charles Duke of Calabria (d. 1323), with pyramidal canopy and adorned with mosaics, by Masuccio ^ (2) Johanna di Durazzo, daughter of Charles of Durazzo, and her husband Robert of Artois, both of whom died of poison on the same day, July 20th, 1837. Beneath are three Virtues, above them two angels withdrawing the curtain. On the opposite side: (3) Mary, youthful daughter of Charles of Durazzo, killed at Aversa. The two latter monuments are also by Masuccio. By the entrance ot church to the r., the tombstone of the naturalist Giambattista della Porta (lo50— 1616). 04 Route 4. NAPLES. Museum. The cloisters contain the tomb of Ludovico Aldemoresco, by Bamboccio (1414). In the chapter-house are represented al fresco all the saints of the Franciscan order. In 1343 Petrarch resided in this monastery; and Boccaccio, when in the church of S. Lo- renzo , beheld the beautiful princess whose praises he celebrates under the name of Fiammetta. She is believed to have been Maria, natural daughter of king Robert. In the direction of the Toledo, to the 1., is situated S. Pietro a Maiella (PI. 69), in the Gothic style , erected by Giovanni Pipino di Barletta favourite of Charles II. (d. 1316; his tomb is in the 1. transept). In the adjacent monastery is established the Conservatory of Music (PI. 6), founded in 1537. It has pro- duced a number of celebrated composers (e. g. Bellini) and is now presided over by Mercadante. A number of MSS. of Pae- siello, Jomelli and other eminent masters are preserved here. From this point the Largo Mercatello (p. 48), adjacent to the Toledo, is reached. The ** Museum (PI. 9). In the upper part of the town beyond the Mercatello, in the Piazza delle Pigne and the new Strada di Capodimonte , rises the Museo Nazionale , formerly ter- med Museo Reale Borbonico , or gli Studj. It was commenced in 1586 by the viceroy Duke of Ossuna as a cavalry-barrack, in 1615 ceded to the university, which was established there until 1780, when it was transferred to the Gesu Vecchio. Since 1790 it has been fitted up for the reception of the royal collec- tion of antiquities and pictures, to which in 1816 Ferdinand 1. gave the name of Museo Reale Borbonico. Here are united the older and more recent collections apper- taining to the crown, the Farnese collection, those of the palaces j of Portici and Capodimonte , and the excavated treasures of Her- culaneum, Pompeii, Stabiae and Cumae. This aggregate collection is one of the finest in the world; the Pompeian antiquities andi objects of art in particular, as well as the bronzes from Her-j culaneum are unrivalled. i The Museum is open daily 9 — 3, except Monday; adm. 1 1., ; Sund. and Thursd. gratis. Gratuities forbidden. I The present director , Commendatore Giuseppe Fiorelli is now j engaged in re-arranging the collections. Alterations are there- 1 fore constantly taking place, so that perfect accuracy in the sub- joined enumeration is at present unattainable. To add to the difftculty, there is no complete catalogue. Custodians stationed at different parts of the building readily give information when applied to; most of them speak French. Permission to copy is obtained by strangers on showing their passports at the Segreteria, on the 1st floor (p. 73), where a si- Museum. NAPLES. 4. Route. 05 milar permission may be procured for Pompeii and Piestum ■Subscription-tickets for Pompeii (p. 113) are also to be had here! The following is a sketch of the general arrangements : (A room to the r. by the entrance contains casts, models, photographs and copies of the objects in the museum, which are sold at fixed prices. A catalogue of these articles may be pro- cured. Sticks and umbrellas deposited on the 1. side.) A. Basement. Right Side: 1st and 3rd doors, ancient frescoes (p. 66); 2nd door, through the court, inscriptions and several larg^ sculptures (p. 71); also Egyptian antiquities (p. <1); opposite, ornamental paintings (p. 72). Left Side: 1st door, the collection of bronzes (p. 68); 2nd — 4th doors, ancient statues (p. 68). B. Entresol. Right Side: Mediaeval works of art (p. 72); beyond, ancient crystal (p. 72); farther on, terra cottas (p. 72). Left Side: Cumaean antiquities (p. 73). C. Upper Floor. Right Side: To the rights library of the papyri (p. 73); to the left, engravings (p. 73); facing the entrance, pictures (p. 73; Italian). Immediately opp. : Library (p. 74). Left Side: To the right, precious relics (p. 74); to the left, coins (p. 75); to the left. Museum Santangelo (p. 76); beyond, vases (p. 76); directly oppo- site, pictures (p. 77; Neapolitan and foreign); beyond, small bronzes (p. 77). The following letters indicate the origin of the different ob- jects: B. Borgia collection, C. Capua, C. A. amphitheatre of Capua, Cu. Cumae, F. Farnese collection, H. Herculaneum, L. Lucera, M. Minturuce, N. Naples, P. Pompeii, Pz. Pozzuoli, S. Stabiae. The lower passage contains the following statues of the Far- nese collection: r., by the entrance, Alexander Severus. By the stair-case, r. Flora; 1. Genius of the city of Rome. L., by the , entrance : a Melpomene from the theatre of Pompey at Rome, ewing to an erroneous conjecture restored as Urania. At each 3f the two doors leading to the court 2 figures with toga ; by i-he stair-case 2 river-gods. On the stair-case above, 2 Yenuses • from the theatre at Herculaneum. The 1st door to r. (the rooms entered by the 2nd and 4th doors are not at present accessible) leads to the Baedekek. Italy III. 2d. Edition. 5 00 Route 4. NAPLES. Museum . Collection of Ancient Mur a I Painting s from Herculaneum, Pompeii, Stabi«; etc. The paintings are now in the course of being arranged in accordance with their subjects; those only of which the arrange- ment is completed are here enumerated. Seven rooms are now finished; the others are rapidly progressing, the finest pictures the> contain being already visible. The frescoes are, with the exception of painted vases and mosaics , the only specimens of ancient painting which have come down to us , and therefore of extreme value. They are our sole informants with regard to the ancient style, colouring and treatment of light and shade. Many of them are beautifully conceived, and executed with an easy, masterly touch, comprising landscapes, historical and mythological subjects, genre-paintings, architectural drawings, animal and fruit- pieces. Although mere decorative paintings of a small provincial Roman towm, they suffice to prove how thoroughly the profession was imbued with artistic principles. Some of the representations may be copies from celebrated or favourite pictures, but the style is such as entirely to preclude the idea that they may have been mechanically copied or stencilled. The rapid, easy execution and absence of minute detail prove that they were intended for effect and not for close inspection. Their state of preservation is of' course very various. Most of the paintings which have been arranged are numbered, and the objects on the wall above fur- nished with names. Each room contains a catalogue. ] 1st Room. Architectural mural decorations. Most of the represen- tations placed along the wail on the 1. side, the narrow wall at the back and the farther portion of the wall on the r. are from the Temple of Isisj at Pompeii. 2nd Room. Animals, fruit, still-life, attributes of gods etc. — Entrance hence to the gallery of inscriptions (p. 71). The other rooms contain the mythological and genre represen- { tations. Their enumeration begins with the farthest room (en- i tered from the 1st R.). 3rd. Room. In the centre a model in cork of the Doric temple of Neptune at Psestum. In the recesses in the w^all immediately opposite are 118 Landscapes from Stabiae, Herculaneum and Pompeii, of which the following merit special attention : Nos. 4, 7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15, 17, 20, 21, 22, 24, 25, 28, 30, 36 , 38, 48, 49, 61, 62, 71, 74, 75, 88, 91, 96, 101, 102, 107, 110. Then to the 1. of the entrance: ''more ancient paintings from Isernia, Ruvo, Gnatia, Pa^stum and Capua. 1. Mercury accompanying a soul to the infernal regions; 2—7 Dance of Shades: 8 — 11. Paintings from the tomb of a warrior; 12. Gorgon's head, with Messapian inscription; 13. Warrior, with Messapian inscription; 15. Gorgon’s head and Victoria; 16. Samnite priest; on the wall between the entrances b Drawings on Marble ( nionochromic) from Herculaneum; 18. Achilles (V) in a quadriga; 19. Oedi- pus wilb Antigone and Ismene ; 20. Latona with Niobe and other Cadmaean women playing at dice (according to the inscription by Alexandros of Alliens); 21. Scene from a tragedy; 22. Theseus releasing the bride of Museum. NAPLES. 4. Route. 67 Pirithous from a Centaur (?). 23-27. Myths of Jupiter: =^=23. Jupiter and Juno on Mt. Ida; 24, 26. lo in Egypt; 26, 27. lo and Argos; 28. Jupiter and Cupid; 30. Jupiter crowned by Victoria; 32. Leda with the swan- 37. Mercury relieves Argos as guard of lo. 38-46. Myths of Apollo) ^ Nymph; 44—46. Apollo and Daphne. 47— Ob. Myths of Minerva., Vulcan and other deities: 47. Vulcan and the Cy- clopes; 48. Thetis and Vulcan, who is preparing the armour of Achilles • 04. Deities of the days of the week ; 57. Ceres with the torch ; 60. Bac- chus and the panther. Passage to the 1.: 61—64. Diana and the children of Niobe. 4th Room. 65.-70. Myths of Diana: 65. Diana; 67, 69. Diana and Endymion. Myths of Venus and Mars: -72. Venus; 73. Venus and Adonis ; 74. Cupid chastised ; 76, 79. Venus and Mars. 81—106. Mercury and Bacchus: 80, 81. Mercury; 90. Bacchus and Silenus ; 91. Education of Bacchus ; 97. Bacchus and Ariadne ; 98. Chariot with Silenus and the boy Bacchus; 99. Bacchus and Ariadne; 103. Silenus and infant Bacchus. Passage to the 1.: 107—154. Myths of Bacchus: 109. Silenus watching the combat between Cupid and Pan; =T10— 112. Rope- dancing Satyrs; ’=118, 119. Satyrs and Bacchantes; -120-123. Centaurs By the wall : 128-130. Dancing Satyrs and Bacchantes ; 131-133. Bacchantes. ^^9’ ^^2. Bacchantes; -150, 151. Rope-dancing Satyrs. Iy5 240. Myths of Cupid., Psyche and others: 155—164. Cupids playing; -168. Zephyrus and Chloris; 173. Cupids and Psyche; 180. Cupids with the seats of Venus and Mars; 184—190. Cupids; 191. Cupids as Lares; 196. Cupids erecting a trophy to Mars ; 197. Dancing Cupids ; 200. The Three Graces ; 205. Hermaphrodite; 217. Cupids hunting. 5 1 h R 0 0 in. A model in wood of, the so-called house of Poeta tra- gicus at Pompeii, which the custodian opens and explains. By the window a glass-cabinet, containing the skull, arm and impression of the breast of a woman, found in the Villa of Diomede at Pompeii. 250—292. Water-deities: 258. Tritons; 263. A sea-monster; 265. Scylla with an oar; 266. Architecture; 269, 271. Nereids on sea- monsters; 270. Hylas borne away by nymphs; 281. Polyphemus and Galatea. 293 — 323. Deities of lights Muses., Seasons etc. : 293, -294, 296. Gorgon’s heads; 299. Harpocrates; 300. iEsculapius, Apollo and Chiron; 302. Melpomene; 303. Two Muses; 305. Saturn; 307. Spring; 322. Apollo as god of the sun. 323 — 364. Fortuna., Victoria., Seasons: 327. Man and woman, crowned, with baskets; -330. Half- figure of a woman; •331. Woman with a basket; 333. Victoria; 343. Fortuna. 365—370. Various myths: 366. Europe, Asia and Africa; 369, 370. Man and woman with sacri- ficial offerings. 371 — 386. Muses, Lares etc.: 373. Victims; 380,382. Youth, crowned, with a goblet; 386. Woman with a goblet. Egyptian Myths: 392, 396. Victims. L. Passage: 1. Meleager and Atalanta. Above them, Daedalus and Pasiphae. r. -Medea about to slay her children. Above, Medea. R. Passage: r. Scipio and the dying Sophonisbe. Above, .dineas wounded and healed by Venus (Virg. ^n. XII.). 6th Room.^ Myths of the Heroes etc. Entrance Wall, r. in the 'entre, Achilles instructed in the lyre by Chiron. Above, -Briseis carried iway from the tent of Achilles, r. Achilles among the daughters of Lyco- nedes ; 1. Embarcation of Briseis. Towards the window: in the centre, Hercules, supported by Priapus, with Omphale. On the pillar, Sacrifice of phigenea, from the House of the Tragic Poet at Pompeii. Above it ’HIrestes ind Pylades at Tauris, as prisoners before Iphigenea and Thoas.— W i n d o w vVall: 1. Perseus and Andromeda; r. Hercules, Dejanira and the Centaur Nessus. Above, Intoxicated Hercules with Omphale. — Wall of the 3gress: 1. "'Hercules and Telephus, who is suckled by a hind. r. Theseus vith Ariadne, who provides him with the clue. ’-'Theseus after the slaying >f the Minotaur. Theseus forsakes Ariadne. — R. Wall. Scenes of common ife : Market-traffic, School etc.; ’-'portrait-medallions etc. 08 Route 4. NAPLES. Museum. R. Passage: r. Dirce bound to (he bull by Amphion and Zetlius (same subject with the “Farnese Bull”, see p. 71). — L. Passage: 1. Birth of Hercules and Eurysiheus. r. '•’^Taintings from Herculaneum : Decoration of a girl, the Dioscuri, tragic actors, musicians. 7th Room. Mosaics. Entrance Wall: on the pillar, Theseus slaying the Minotaur, three representations. R., in the centre, actor trained by a poet. L. xomic scene (by Dioscurides of Samos) ; r. a similar subject by the same artist. — R. Wall: Graces, Phryxus and Helle, Theseus and Peleus. 0pp. the entrance, "garlands with masks. Acratus riding on a lion. The first door opposite, to the 1., leads to a room where a few mosaics will he placed. Then in three rooms beyond: Ancient Bronzes. This collection, of which the greater portion is from Herculaneum, is unique of its kind and merits careful inspection. The size and number of the objects, and the delicate workmanship required by the material, convey an idea of the jjerfection which the ancients had attained in this art. — The arrangements commenced in 1865 were at the beginning of the present year still incomplete. The central room only, containing the finest bronze statues, is finished, and is entered from the S. end of the Portico dei Balbi. Window Wall: *Diana shooting, half- figure. Female portrait-statue. In the corner, portrait head of the Tiber. — E. Wal 1 : Female portrait-statue. Between the doors, "head of Apollo on a pedestal. "Three dancers from the theatre at Herculaneum (also three on the opposite side). On a pedestal, portrait-head. — N. Wall: ^Female head (erroneously termed “Ptolemaeus I Apion”). On a bracket, bearded portrait-head. Statue of Augustus as ! Jupiter. Head of Alexander (V). Statue of Claudius as Jupiter. Bearded portrait-head. Female portrait-statue as Pietas. — W. Wall. Between the doors : 'Tlead of the youthful Hercules (or Mercury). On a bracket, Archytas. Dancers from Herculaneum, see above. On a bracket, *head of the bearded Bacchus, commonly termed Plato. In the corner, statue of Augustus sacri- ficing. In the centre, ’'Drunken Faun. At the sides, two copies of the statue of a runner. R., behind the latter, "Lute-playing Apollo, from Pom- peii, a work of the beginning of the imperial period, of the school of Pasi- teles, an imitator of the ancient style. L., beyond it, ’^Apollo shooting. R., in front of the latter, "head of Apollo, in the ancient style. "*Mercury reposing. L., in front of it, the so-called *Head of Seneca. "Sleeping satyr. The second door to the 1. leads to the Marble Sculptures, which are distributed in the three branches of the great passages, and the 8 rooms situated beyond the second branch. As yet they are unnumbered. 1. First Passage. To the left: Captive barbarian from the Forum of Trajan in Rome; in front of it a recumbent Faun; r. Mars reposing; 1. Head of Venus; Head of Minerva; Daughter of Balbus. Of this noble family, who occupied the highest rank at Herculaneum, there are also on the same side the father, mother, son and 4 daughters, all from the theatre of Herculaneum (a 5th daughter in the museum of Dresden). To the right: Wounded gladiator; 1. Balbus the father; in front of the latter, Dying Gaul (these and 3 other small recumbent statues on this side belong to the Per- gameniun school, the same style as that of the dying Gaul in the Capitol at Rome); r. warrior charging; 1. Daughter of Balbus; r. Hunter; 1. Viciria Archas, mother of Balbus; in front of her a fallen giant; r. two men killing Museum . NAPLES. 4. Route. 09 i Marcus Nonius Balbus, according to the inscription, praetor and proconsul (the head replaced at a later date, but also ancient) ^ in front of him a fallen Amazon; r. Dying Amazon; 1. Daughter of Balbus; r. Farnese Gladiator (head and limbs modern) ; 1. Captive barbarian ; in front of it, a Dying Gaul; r. Doryphoros (copy from Polycletes); 1. Silenus head; r. and 1. Harmodios and Aristogeiton, assassins of Hipparchus, son of Pisistratus, copied from a pair of ancient Greek statues. The other pair of Gladiators are of the Roman period. 2. Second Passage. Portico dei Balbi, so called from the equestrian statues of M. Non. Balbus the son, according to the inscription, praetor and proconsul, also from the basilica at Herculaneum like that of his father, at the other end of the passage. Then by the wall to the 1. a female figure, restored as Euterpe. Youthful Pan. In the niche the so-called Farnese Bacchus. In front of the latter a tine sarcophagus, with Jupiter, Juno, Apollo, Ceres, Minerva etc. Jupiter Ammon. Portrait-statue of M. Holco- nius Rufus, from Pompeii. By the narrow wall, Antinous as Bacchus. By the other long wall, Diana as Luna; Paris; head of Zeus; statue of Nep- tune (?) ; bearded head of Bacchus ; Nereids on a sea-monster ; female statue ; Hercules; "Satyr carrying the young Bacchus on his shoulders; "Pan teach- ing a boy the flute ; Athene (imitation of the most ancient style) ; Socrates ; Hesiod (commonly termed a Homer) ; deity of the town. "Venus of Capua. It is a matter of doubt how this statue, which is very similar and scarcely inferior to that of Venus of Melos in the Louvre, is to be supplemented; in this case the Cupid, base, and the arms of the goddess are new. — In the hall to the 1. "*.^schines, formerly erroneously called Aristides, an admirable robed statue found in the villa of the Papyri at Herculaneum. 0pp., Antinous. In the passage Bacchus and Cupid; bearded Bacchus; head of Mercury ; Hercules and Omphalfe ; Ganymede with the eagle ; masks of river-gods (on the opp. side also) ; between them Ceres. On the narrow side, a colossal Minerva. By the second long wall: Apollo; Diana with a dog and fawn; "Orestes and Electra ; the priestess Eumachia, a statue erected to her by the fullers, from the building founded by her at Pom- peii. Beyond the door, Livia, from the Pantheon at Pompeii. "Cupid (copy from Praxiteles); Mercury; small sitting Cybele; two satyrs with grapes. In a straight direction, and then throngh the door on the r, is reached: 3. Room of the Kallipygos. To the right. Torso of Bacchus, of delicate workmanship; Bacchanalian sarcophagus. "-Tsyche of Capua, sadly mutilated ; she was probably represented with her arms bound at her back and tortured by Cupid. On the narrow side of the room three Provinces personified, a relief. On the third side 3 sarcophagi; the second with a representation containing numerous figures : Prometheus and the human form as yet unendowed with life, surrounded by the beneficient gods ; then heads of Athene and Bacchus ; on the third sarcophagus a Bacchanalian procession. Immured above, a *Greek relief: Helen persuaded by Aphrodite to follow Paris who with Eros stands before her. In the centre of the rooni the '"Venus Kallipygos, so called from the part towards which she is looking, from the imperial palaces at Rome ; head, breast, right leg, right hand and left arm are new. 4. Room of the coloured marble statues. By the entrance, wall, r. Priestess of Isis; 1. "bearded head; mosaic with Bacchanalian dances- By the wall on the r. side two kneeling barbarians, between them Apollo. Wall of the egress: Isis; Ephesian Diana. Window-wall: small Meleager of rosso antico. In the centre : Apollo in a sitting posture, of porphyry. 5. Room of the Muses contains several statues of Muses from the theatre at Herculaneum, an Athene and an Apollo sitting. In the centre a beautiful "marble vase with a relief : Mercury, followed by dancing Bac- chanalian figures, entrusting the infant Bacchus to the care of a nymph. 70 Route 4. NAPLES. Museum. This, according to tlie inscription, tlie work of Salpion of Athens, was found at Formia, and long served as font in the cathedral at Gaeta. Beneath this vase a fountain-coping, with 7 deities: Jupiter, Mars, Apollo, iFlsculapius, Bacchus, Hercules, Mercury. In the walls near the window 2 small reliefs, 1. *Apollo with the Graces (?j, r. 7 female figures, with accompanying names, a dance ^ the three Graces (Euphrosyne, Aglaia, Thalia)-, then Ismene, Cycais, and Eranno, probably three nymphs, and another smaller statue of Telonnesus, probably the name of a town. 6. The Venus Room contains a series of mediocre statues of Venus. In the centre Cupid around whom a dolphin is coiled. Adonis. A Venus and Cupid on the enclosure of a fountain, which is adorned with a represen- tation of wine-pressing. 7. Hall of the Flora. To the left, ’^'Athene, both arms new^ breast and back concealed by the aegis, helmet on the head with a sphynx, on each side a Pegasus. In the centre the “^Farnese Flora from the Thermae of Caracalla at Rome. Head and limbs were replaced by Giacomo della Porta, subsequently by Albaccini and Taglioni, and it is not improbable that the statue originally represented a Venus. To the right, Juno. In front the *"3Iosaic of the battle of Issus. This, the almost only historical representation of antiquity which we now possess, was found in the house of the Faun at Pompeii. It represents the battle at the moment when Alexander, whose helmet has fallen from his head, charges Darius with his cavalry, and transfixes the general of the Persians who has fallen from his wounded horse. The chariot of the Persian monarch is prepared for retreat, when in the foreground a Persian of rank, in order to ensure the more speedy escape of the king, who is absorbed in thought at the sight of his expiring general, offers him his horse. 8. Atlas Room. In the centre the kneeling figure of Atlas with the globe, the head new^ date prior to Hadrian. To the right, statue of an orator. The nomenclature of many of the busts is uncertain. Socrates, Euripides, Lycurgus, Homer (head modern), Apollonius, Solon, Seneca, male portrait-statue. By the wall of the egress, female robed statue with modern i head; Antisthenes. R. of the door, Zeno. Daughter of Niobe. Window Wall, Euripides. Bearded Dionysus (erroneously termed Plato). Archimedes. 9. Tiberius Room. In the centre a colossal bust of Tiberius, on a pedestal from Pozzuoli, with reliefs representing 14 towns of Asia Minor which Tiberius re-erected after an earthquake; the names in Greek charac- ters are inscribed under each figure. Adjacent, to the r., the double statue of Herodotus and Thucydides; to the 1. a second double statue. Then two candelabra and two vases with Bacchanalian representations. R. of the entrance a bust of Bacchus. A consular statue. So-called Westal bust. R. wall, Indian Bacchus; Concordia; bust of Themistocles (?); bust of Vespasian. Wall of the egress: head of Hercules ; "head of Alexander; head | of Jupiter from the temple of Jupiter at Pompeii. "Head of Juno, an j austere ancient work, most probably a copy of the Juno ideal conceived by Polycletes. Another head of Juno, between which and the former an in- structive comparison may be drawn. Terence; Varro (both doubtful) ; bust of Hesiod, erroneously termed Homer. 10. ’'‘Room of the painted statuettes. The most interesting ob- ject here is the small ’•‘Artemis from Pompeii (imitation of the most ancient style) in the centre, bearing many traces of colouring; then a crane devouring a lizard. Busts of Antoninus Pius and his consort. Along the walls in cabi- nets many small figures, l)usts and reliefs, interesting from their colouring. The 2ii(i corridor is now entered and then to the 1. the : 11. ‘^Third Passage, containing for the most part inferior busts of tin* emperors. On the right: Drusus; Lepidus ; Antonia the younger; Ha- drian ; Ves])asian ; Titus; Maximin; Heliogabalus ; Galba; Hadrian ; Vitel- lius; Julia; Antoninus Pius; Lucilla; Domitian. On the opp. side: Cara- ealla; ^’ero ; Trajan; Lucius Vcrus; Probus; Nero; Caligula; Tiberius; tmrbarian Imst. To the r. in a side-room, on the r. side of the entrance Museum. INAPLES. 4. Route. 71 a relief: l^ympli repelling a Satyr. Adjacent, to the r., Attic tomb, archaic style. On the walls numerous smaller marble reliefs, among which the round discs are especially interesting, which in the ancient colonnades hung down between the pillars. In the centre a large basin of porphyry. At the outlet to the 1. a relief: Hermes conducts Eurydice back to Tar- tarus after she had been released by Orpheus. In the middle of the pas- sage, near the outlet : Agrippina sitting, wife of Germanicus. Farther on, by the wall : Alexander Severus ; Hadrian ; Lucius Verus ; Nero ; Caracalla •, the young Caligula ^ Hannibal (?) ; the young Nero ^ Nerva ^ Britannicus. The third door leads into a court , occupied , like that oppo- site , with reliefs, statues and architectural fragments, many of which merit the inspection of connoisseurs. Thence to the Gallery of Inscriptions (Galleria lapidaria or Sala del toro)^ generally accessible from the second room of the ancient paintings only the attendant at the tomb and to the opener of the door. This, digression occupies about hr. The monmnent contains a chamber about 15 ft. square, with three windows and vaulted ceiling. In the walls are 10 recesses for cinerary urns, ind in the principal wall, which has been destroyed, there appears to have been one of greater size. Probability and local tradition favour the im- ,pression that this was the last resting-place of the poet, who, as he himself nforms us, here composed his immortal works, the Georgies and the ^neid, ind who unquestionably possessed a villa on the Posilipo and at his express, wish was here interred after his death at Brundisium B. C. 19 on his return Tom Greece. Petrarch is said to have visited this spot accompanied by cing Robert, and to have planted a laurel, which at the beginning of the present century fell a prey to the knives of curiositv-mongers. and has since ;been replaced. It is on record that the tomb in 1326 was in a good state )f preservation, and contained a marble urn with 9 small pillars, the frieze )f which bore the well-known inscription : Mantua me genuit, Calabri rapuere, tenet nunc Parthenope : cecini pascua, rura, duces. )f all this no trace now remains. In 1530, however. Cardinal Bembo’s epitaph on the poet Sannazar (p. 80) proves that he believed in the genu- /H ness of the tomb, on which the following inscription, which is still geible, was accordingly placed in 1554 : Qui cineres? tumuli hsec vestigia: conditur olim Ille hie qui cecinit pascua, rura, duces. ^he question^ may therefore be considered to be decided in favour of the- revalent belief, and the poet’s name is thus inseparably connected with vaples and its fascinating environs. At the farther extremity of the grotto of Posilipo is situated he village of Fuorigrotta , where several roads diverge. A new oad to the r. leads to Orsolone and Capodimonte. The second 1 iads to the village of Pianura (3 M.) at the foot of the hill of 1 Jamaldoli , with its vast quarries ; a third to the Lago d’Agnano nd Astroni, and that in a straight direction to the small Bagnoli I'dth warm springs, situated on the coast, on the road to Pozz'uoli. 80 iioute 4. NAPLES. Chiesa del Sannazaro. At the W. end of Fuorigrotta, by the small church of S. Vitale, is the monument of the poet Count Giacomo Leopardi, who died at Naples, June 18, 1837. A continuation of the Chiaia is formed by the Mergellina, a long row of houses and villas on the slopes of the Posilipo facing the sea, intersected by the * Strada Nuova di Posilipo, which was commenced in 1812, and in 1823 continued as far as Bagnoli. As this road commands a succession of the most beautiful views, the traveller should on no account omit to visit it , which , when time is limited, he may accomplish in going to or returning from Pozzuoli. About 5 min. walk from the point where the Str. di Piedi- grotta diverges from the Chiaia to the r., the road forms a curve in the direction of the sea. A short distance above this curve, to the r. (from the exterior scarcely recognizable), stands the €hiesa del Sannazaro or S. Maria del Parto , on the site of a small estate which king Frederick II. of Arragon presented in 1496 to the poet Jacopo Sannazaro (b. at Naples, 1158), for whom he entertained the highest regard. After his villa had been destroyed by the French in 1529, the aged poet caused the church to be erected by monks of the Servite order. It derives its appellation from his Latin poem ^‘De partu Virginis”. The church contains a high-altar and six chapels. In the 1st chap, to j the r., St. Michael overcoming Satan, by Leonardo da Pistoja. The devil is represented with the features of a woman who was passionately enamoured of Diomedes Carafa, once bishop of Ariano, and is therefore popularly known as “il diavolo di Mergellina”. Behind the high-altar is the monu- ment of the poet, executed by Fra Giovanni da Montorsoli from a design by Girolamo Santacroce. At the sides Apollo and Minerva, popularly believed to be David and Judith ^ on a bas-relief between them Neptune and Pan, with Fauns, satyrs and nymphs singing and playing, an allusion to Sanna- zar’s poem “Arcadia” ; above is the richly decorated sarcophagus with the j bust of the poet which bears his academic name : Actius Sincerus. At the ; base of the monument is the inscription by Bembo : Da sacro cineri flores : hie ille Maroni Sincerus Musa proximus ut tumulo. It alludes to the poet’s having imitated Virgil. His principal works are idyls, elegies and epigrams in Latin. * To the r., farther on, rises Villa Angri, then to the 1. by the, sea the picturesque ruins of the Palazzo di Bonn Anna (erro- neously believed to be that of the Regina Giovanna), commenced in the 17th cent, by Fansaga for Donna Anna, wife of the viceroy Duke of Medina , on the site of a former palace of the princes of Stigliano, but never completed. It is now employed as a glass- manufactory. The road, gradually ascending, winds between gar- dens and villas round the base of the hills ; to the 1. the Laz- zaretto (quarantine), the Villa Rocca Romana with hot-houses and a collection of animals , Rocca Matilda and Villa Minutola. At Grotto of Sejanus. NAPLES. 4. Route. the entrance of the ma de Metis, the so called Palazzo delle Connonate a path diverges to the 1. and descends to the extre- mit) of the promontory of Posilipo, where the small church of S. Mana stands on the site of a former lighthouse. Here a boat may be hired to convey the traveller back to Naples. The hiffh road continues to the r. ; at the highest point a road unites with :it on the r., leading to the Posilipo and Vomero fp. 83). A short ■distance farther, as a deep cutting is quitted, an open space is reached, ihsclosing a magnificent prospect of Bagnoli, Camaldoli, Pozzuoh Bane and Ischia. The road then descends on the W side of the Posilipo, passing the so-called Orotto of Sejanus, to the coast and Bagnoli^ 3^/4 M. from the Villa Reale. This “Grotto of Sejanus" is a passage hewn through the rocky ridge near the sea by the Punta di Coroglio, upwards of 2/0 m in length, 500 ft. longer than the grotto of Posilipo, and originally of greater height and width; in the side towards the sea are several openings for ventilation (fee 1 1 ., the inspection occupies Lr construction is ascribed by Strabo (V. 4) to M. Cocceius Nerva (B. C. 37), almost simulta- neously with that of the Julian harbour on the Lucrine lake by M. Apppa. It is therefore an error - to associate it with the name 01 l5ejanus, as it is of much earlier origin. It has recently been treed from rubbish and supported by walls, on which occasion an inscription was found, recording that the tunnel had been repaired by the emp. Honorius about the year 400. At the E. extremity 01 this passage, especially by the rocky promontory of La Gojola me most beautiful views are obtained of Nisida, Procida, Is.chia, ^apn, the bay of Naples and a number of relics of antiquity'. Aose to the sea, in the direction of Naples and not visible from ^is point, is the so called Scuola or properly Scoglio (rock) di yirgtlio, perhaps originally a temple of Fortune or of Venus vupima, to whom mariners offered sacrifice after a prosperous 'oyage. The custodian conducts the visitor from the grotto to a ineyard in the vicinity (feo 30-50 c.), whence a magnificent lew IS enjoyed , and the scattered fragments of the Pausilypon, r vi a of Vedius Pollio (p. 78) are partially visible, extending rom the slope of the hill to the verge of the sea and overgrown fith myrtles, erica and broom. The fish-ponds, in which the f liabit of feeding large muraenae with the es 0 his slaves, lay nearer the town. A small theatre is also sen, which appertained to the villa of Lucullus, with 17 rows [seats hewn in the rock. Besides these are numerous other dies of the villas with which in ancient times the Posilipo was most entirely covered. Opposite^ to the promontory of Coroglio rises the small rocky and of Nisida, the Nesis of the ancients, an extinct crater, Baedeker. Italy III. 2d. Edition. 0 82 Route 4. NAPLES. S. Martino. which opens towards the S. On the N. side is a rock on which the Lazzaretto is erected, connected with the main land by a breakwater. The small harbour below serves for quarantine pur- poses: the building on the height is a bagno for criminals. The son of Lucullus possessed a villa on this island, to which Brutus retired after the murder of Caesar in the spring of B. C. 44, and where he was visited by Cicero He here took leave of his wife Portia 'on his departure for Greece, previous to the battle of Philippi. In the 15th cent. Queen Johanna II. possessed a villa on the island of Nisida, which was converted into a fort for the purpose of keeping the fleet of Louis of Anjou in check. From the Museum the Strada deW Infrascata (PI. D, E, 5) ascends the heights of S. Elmo and the Posilipo. At the base of these hills, and also farther up, donkeys, which by many are preferred to carriages, may be hired. The road ascends in zig- zags. After 7 min. walk an open space is seen to the 1. From this point the new Corso Vittorio Emanuele, now in the course of construction, diverges to the 1. , on a level considerably above and commanding an admirably survey of the town. From this road, after 8 min. walk, a steep path ascends to the r. to the Castel Sanf Elmo. The easier, but longer approach is by the Str. deir Infrascata, which the traveller may prefer to follow. Where this road proceeds towards Antignano to the r, , a path opposite, by a small chapel, ascends to the 1., shortly afterwards turns* to the 1., then to the r. (one-horse carr. for the excursion 3 — 3^2 1*5 donkey 1 — IY 2 ^O- Pedestrians may also ascend at once from the Toledo at the Largo della Carita , but the path is somewhat precipitous (donkey Q 2 — 1 On entering the precincts of the fortifications, the visitor first proceeds to the Carthusian monastery of * S. Martino, not less remarkable for the beauty of its situation and the views it afibrds, than for the magnificence of its endow- ment. It was begun in 1325 by Duke Charles of Calabria, almost entirely rebuilt in the 17th cent. , and is adorned with pictures of the Neapolitan school. Since the dissolution of the monastery, custodians, who show the church and are forbidden to accept gratuities, have been appointed. Part of the now deserted buil- dings is destined for the reception of a library, derived from all the suppressed monasteries at Naples. U’he A8cen8ion on Uie ceilint; ot the nave and the 12 Apostles between the windows are by Lanfranco. Over the principal entrance a ’^'Descent from tin* Cross by Stanzioni (damaged), next to wliich Moses and Elias by Spagno- Irltu. The 12 Apostles above the arches of the chapels, by the same artist. Krescoes of the choir by the Cavalitre (i'Arpino. The large Crucifixion by Castel 8anV ELrno. NAPLES. 4. Route. 83 Lanfranco. Nativity, by Guido Reni (who died before the completion of the painting). On the sides: to the 1., Communion of the Apostles, by Spagnoletto (in the style of Paolo Veronese), and Christ washing the dis- ciples’ feet, by Caracciolo\ to the r.. Last Supper by Stanzioni.^ and Institu- tion of the Eucharist, by the pupils of P. Veronese. The marble de- corations of the church, 12 different roses of Egyptian granite, after Cosimo Fansago of Carrara, the beautiful mosaic marble pavement by Presti.^ and the high-altar, by Solimena., also merit inspection. The Sacristy, entered to the 1. from the choir, is adorned with intarsias by Bonaventura Presto^ and paintings by the Cavaliere d'Arpino., Stanzioni and Caravaggio. Beyond it is the Tesoro., containing as an altar-piece a '"Descent from the Cross, the master-piece of Spagnoletto ; on the ceiling Judith, by Luca Giordano., com- pleted, it is said in 48 hrs., when the artist was in his 72nd year. The ceiling of the Chapterhouse is adorned with a painting by Corenzio ^ other pictures by Arpino., Finoglia., Stanzioni and Cambiaso. Hence through an- other small room to the "Cloisters., supported on each of the four sides by 15 Doric columns of white marble, and adorned with numerous statues of saints. The 'wiew from the belvedere of the garden embraces the city, the bay and the fertile country as far as Nola and the Apennines. It is more limited than that from the summit of the fort but more picturesque. The drawbridge is now crossed and the summit soon attained, where the officer on duty readily accords permission to enter (1 1. to the soldier in attendance). Castel Sant^ Elmo (822 ft.) , formerly Sanf Erasmo , was erected by Giacomo de’ Sanctis under Robert the Wise. Under Ferdinand I. (1458) it was termed Castello di S. Martino , after the neighbouring monastery, and considerably extended. In the 16th cent, it was altered to its present form by Don Pedro de Toledo, and in 1641 some additions were made by the Duke of Medina. The vast walls, the fosses hewn in the solid tuffstone rock , its subterranean passages and ample cistern formerly ob- tained for it the reputation of impregnability, which it has long ago ceased to enjoy. The fort has been dismantled under the new regime and is employed as a military prison. A walk on the ramparts affords a splendid panorama of the town and bay, and particularly of the district towards Misenum and Ischia. Instead of returning by the same route, the visitor is recom- mended to proceed along the height in the direction of the sea. He may then either descend to the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, and following it reach the church of S. Maria di Piedigrotta , not far from the entrance to the grotto ; or pursue his path on the hill, leading through the Vico Belvedere and past the Villa Floridiana to the Vomero , where by the beautiful Villa Belvedere it unites with the road described below. The Str. delV Infrascata prolonged under different names, leads from the Museum, skirting the brow of the hill, to the extremity of the Posilipo. It intersects the small villages of An- tignano, Vomero, Posilipo and Strato and passes numerous villas and country-residences. The first half of the way towards Posilipo 6 * 84 Eoute 4. NAPLES. Camaldoli. is entirely enclosed by walls, but beyond that point a succession of charming views are obtained on both sides, over the town and bay and the W. environs. A walk as far as the projecting rock of the Posilipo occupies 2 hrs. ; thence to the Villa Reale 1 hr. ; one horse carr. , allowing time to visit S. Elmo and the Grotto of Sejanus (p. 81), 4 — 5 1. , an excursion strongly recommended, as it conveys the best idea of the beauties of the environs (drive 2 hrs., visit to S. Elmo lt/4, to the Grotto of Sejanus 1 hr.). Half-a-mile from the Museum the Vico Arenella diverges to the r. towards the village of that name , situated on the height, the birth-place of Salvator Rosa in 1605, who terminated his chequered career at Rome in 1673. Enclosed by garden -walls and continuing to ascend, the road next reaches Antignano, 10 min. walk farther. Shortly before the village is reached the road to S. Elmo diverges to the 1., and the main road soon divides, leading to Camaldoli to the r., whilst the route at present described proceeds to the 1. After a walk of V4 i^^ore Vomero is reached, where the Villa Belvedere affords a delightful panorama of the land and sea. A precipitous path , the Salita del Vomero , descends from this point to the Chiaia. Under the name of Strada Belvedere the road now skirts the heights of the Chiaia, passes the Villa Regina (r.) and leads to the summit of the Posilipo. Near the point where it turns towards the S. , the Villas Ricciardij Tricase and Patrizi are beautifully situated. The Grotta di Posilipo or di Pozzuoli is attained after 1/2 walk from Vomero. Between Vomero and the sea the hill bears the name of Posilipo. The village of Posilipo is soon reached, whence the Salita di 8. Antonio di Posilipo descends to the Mer- gellina, passing Virgil’s Tomb. The road continues on the height, leading from Posilipo through the village of Strato in about 1 hr. to the Strada Nuova, nearly opposite to the Punta di Coroglio. It affords an admirable survey of the country as far as the Lago d’Agnano, Bagnoli, Camaldoli, the Solfatara, Pozzuoli, the environs of Baiae, the heights of Mi- senum , the island of Procida and the lofty peak of Epomeo in Iscliia ; in the other direction, the town and bay. From the point where the road unites with the Str. Nuova di Posilipo, a walk of 10 min. more to the r. will enable the traveller to inspect the Grotto of Sejanus (p. 81). Thence back to the town is a distance of 372 ** Camaldoli commands the finest view near Naples, perhaps the finest in Italy. The mona.stery, founded in 1525 by the Marchese di Pescara, the victor of Pavia, i.s situated on the E. extremity of the chain of Camaldoli. NAPLES. 4, Route. 85 hills by which the Campi Phlegraei are encircled on the N. , the highest point near Naples (1416 ft.). Donkeys (2 1. and a trifle to the attendant; for a party IV 2 1. each), which afford the pleasantest means of accomplishing this excursion, are to be found in the Str. dell’ Infrascata PI. D, E, 3), which ascends from the Museum to the 1. Or a carriage may be taken as far as Antignano, but the last part of the ascent ( 11 / 2 ^ 1 *-) must still be performed on foot or by the aid of a donkey. The whole excursion from the Museum to the monastery and back occupies about 3^2 l^rs. if a donkey be taken , on foot somewhat more. The early morning and the evening are most favourable for the view. The Str. dell’ Infrascata ascends to Antignano. After 7 min. w^alk an open space is reached , where the new Corso diverges to the 1. The road next passes the Stabilimento di Francesco di Sales , a girls’ school , leads between rows of houses and finally through gardens in 14 min. more to the village. The road to S. Elmo here diverges to the 1. : that to the r., through the vil- lage, is our present route. The road soon divides, the branch to the 1. leading to Vomero. The branch to the r. must be taken, and, where the road again divides shortly after, that to the left. Half-a-mile farther the frontier of the city douane is reached; below it and in the garden to the r. are beautiful pines. A few min. walk farther, the field -road passing the Osteria to the 1. and soon afterwards crossed by a small viaduct, is taken and not again quitted. It traverses a small ravine and is enclosed by underwood and pines. After 20 min. a house is seen to the r. ; 2 min. more, a farm. The path now ascends to the r., com- manding a fine view of the bay. Where, after 7 min., it divi- des, the branch descending to the 1. is taken , passing a ravine, through which a beautiful glimpse of Capri is obtained. At the end of the ravine a road diverges to the 1., but this and all the intersecting forest paths must be avoided. After 20 min. the path passes through a gateway, ascends to the 1. by the wall of the convent garden , and then to the 1. Admission to the monastery is accorded (gratuity 11. or more to the attendant, a few sous to the doorkeeper), but as both monastery and church are uninte- resting, the garden may at once be entered; ladies are admitted. The ** V i e w from Camaldoli embraces the bays of Naples, Pozzuoli and Gaeta, the widely extended capital (of which a great portion is concealed by S. Elmo) with its environs, the Lago d’AgnaiJO , the craters of Solfataia and Astroni , the promontories of Posilipo and Misenum, the islands of Nisida, Procida and Ischia, the districts of Baiae, Cuma and Liternum. Towards the 8. the view is bounded by Capri and the Punta della Campanella, the ancient promontory of Minerva, The small towns of Massa, 8or- g 0 Route 4 . NAPLES. Environs rente and Castellamare are visible, Monte Sant’ Angelo, the smoking cone of Vesuvius and the luxuriant plain at its base. Towards the N. the eye wanders over the expansive Campania Felix with its numerous villages , over Caserta, Maddaloni, Can- cello, Nola, Capua, Monte Tifata, the volcanic group of the Rocca Monfina, the lake of Patria, Gaeta, the hills of Formiai and beyond them Monte Circello. To the W. extends the open sea with the islands of Ponza, Ventotene, S. Stefano and Isola delle Botte. A precipitous path, traversing wood and rook, leads from Camaldoli to the plain of Pianura. On the S. side of the mona- stery lies the village of Soccaro ^ beyond it Fuorigrotta, above which rises the hill chain of S. Elmo, Vomero and Posilipo. Environs of Naples. The charm of Naples consists solely in the singular beauty of its environs. The bay with its promontories and islands, and the flourishing villages on its shores, presents new beauties at every different point of view, and the eye never wearies in gazing at the exquisite picture. The nature of the excursions to be un- dertaken from Naples must of course depend on the season of the year and the inclination and resources of the traveller. Most of them may be accomplished within a single day. In the more frequented villages, however, very tolerable inns afford accom- modation for the night, although in the cold season they are very inferior to the hotels of the city. Moreover a saving of time and expenditure is effected , if the traveller is not obliged to return to Naples every evening. During the tine season, therefore, the independent traveller is recommended to give up his quarters at his hotel but to leave all his superfluous luggage behind him. The excursions to Caserta and Capua (described at pp. 8 and follg.) are most conveniently made from Naples. A visit to the islands of Capri, Procida and Ischia cannot be recommended in winter except in perfectly settled weather. As to the number of the party, 2 or 4 will be found the most convenient and entail the least expense. A careful plan should be formed before starting, with the aid of the latest local time-tables. With regard to the security of the roads, no apprehensions need be entertained, on much frequented routes. Before under- taking mountain excursions, however, or the journey to Paestuin, it is a wise precaution to give notice to the authorities, who will readily adopt measures to ensure the safety of the traveller. The ascent of Mt. ’Vesuvius is prohibited, when it is apprehended that brigands are in the vicinity. It is advisable under all circum- stances, never to be unprovided with a passport. la/o^sa CiutceJIoi Mim.‘ I fapot/j ^TBSTHariisI ■ .'-M / ^ Custel Vnthumo^ ^^Casalt S.Cipriam \jCxs€tpeseTi Xusciaiu . jPozKuotrr j3<7TOTe c4 ^VJ?a» I E. M.EpormeO^.S.iitcoleC) JSA: Mmn^grume K. M.Sium> R . M.Rxrtnro P.di.Fumtf" rn,; 5 ?“’ '^ihsola. i S-Uctrirllhha TcL BoxTCUtO' .iir-oJsL^ Sfeh Al .Falconarttlt^^^ 10 d.’Ari'o J^^tc/oj Qu.jb[tdicjf' >SMnois> An*iai ('astellj C.d’ OrUuvdu, .\ iAmalfi C.a’OrsO C'l\«iu«lo Co^jrieM Sc-H (hilU of Naples. POZZUOLI. 5. Route. 87 Excursions to many of the different points of interest are now greatly facilitated by the railway, with the principal lines of which the traveller should be acquainted : A. To Salerno (Station PI. G, 4, below the Roman stat.), by Portici , Torre del Greco , Torre Annunziata , Pompeii^ Scafati, Angri, Pagani, Nocera, S. Clemente, Cava, Vietri’ in 2 hrs. ; 5 trains daily. B. To Caste 11am are, by the same line as the above as far as Torre Annunziata, in 1 hr. ; 9 trains daily , fewer in winter. C. To Caserta and Capua (Roman station, PI. G. 4), 7 trains daily. This excursion is described at pp. 8 and follg. To Capua in 1 hr. 40 min. (1st cl. 2 1. 95 c. : 2nd cl. 2, 15; 3rd cl. 1 1.). To Caserta in 1 hr. 16 min. (1st cl, 2, 20; '2nd cl. ^1, 70; 3rd cl. 75 c.). If the train which starts for Capua at 9. 15 a. m. be taken , all the objects of interest there may be inspected by 2 p. m., when the train from S. Maria di Capua to Caserta may be taken (in 26 min.), whence a train returns to Naples at 4. 43 p. m. The excursions from Naples to^ Nola (p. 12) and San Severino (p. 12) may be similarly arranged. 5. Pozzuoli, Baise, Misenum and Cumae. The district to the \V. of Naples has from time immemorial been a «cene of the most powerful volcanic agency, and as late as the 16th cent, vast changes have here taken place, traces of which are encountered by the traveller at every step. This tract is scarcely less interesting in an historical than in a physical point of view. It was here that Hellenic ■civilisation first gained a footing in Italy, and between this portion of the i)eninsula and the East constant communication was thenceforth maintained. Tlie mazes of Hellenic tradition are most intimately associated with this ■country, and the poems of Homer and Virgil will invest it with the highest interest as long as classic education exists. The prosperity of this lovely ■coa.st has long since departed. The grand creations of imperial Rome, the innumerable palatial villas of the Roman aristocracy, have long been con- verted into a chaotic heap of ruins by convulsions of nature, and have left behind comparatively feeble traces of their former magnificence. The Ma- iaria which prevails in many parts of the district, and the stupendous, though slumbering, agencies beneath the soil impart a sombre and melan- l by the way) drive by Baiae to Bacoli (refreshments) and theitce back to Naples direct, or via Procida etc. Baiae should be visited before Cumae, although the route is thus prolonged, in order that a guide* (lij 2 — 2 1.) may be secured there for the rest of the excursion, as the traveller unaided will have difficulty in finding the most direct paths. These excursions may also be conveniently divided into two. One- afternoon may be devoted to the two routes between Naples and Pozzuoli, the town itself with the Solfatara and the Lago d’Agnano (one-horse carr. 51.); the best arrangement being to proceed first to the Lago d’Agnano, there quit the carriage and walk (in 1 hr.) by the Solfatara and amphi- theatre to Pozzuoli (boy to act as guide ij 2 L), where the carriage is regained. Another afternoon to Baise and Misenum, the Lacus Avernus and Cumae* (7 — 8 hrs. ; one-horse carr. 7 1.). A visit to Procida and Ischia may also be agreeably combined with the excursion. From the beach at Miniscola the passage to Procida maybe accomplished in i| 2 — 3|4 hr. (Iij 2 — 2 1.); boats, however, are not always to be obtained. About 8 or 9 a. m. a market-boat starts from Pozzuoli for Procida (30— 50 c.); a private boat is of course preferable (5 — 6 1.), Boat from Pozzuoli to Baiae for 1 — 3 pers. 1 1., accor- ding to tariff. The pedestrian, who should however avail himself of a car- riage for a part of the way, is of course least liable to the annoyances of imposition. To Pozzuoli is a drive of 1 hr., or a w'alk of 2 hrs. The carriages, by which the constant communication between this town and Naples is main- tained, are to be found in front of the Cafe Benvenuto in the Str. di Chiaia; one-horse carr. for the single journey D |2 1. ^ for a single seat ij 2 1. These carriages, however, which are in fact omnibuses on a small scale, are notr to be found with certainty except in the early morning, and are less suitable for excursionists than an ordinary carrozella (double journey 41., or return- ing by the Str. Nuova di Posilipo 5 1.), Strangers are everywhere im- portuned to inspect worthless curiosities which make serious inroads oni time, temper and purse. The only objects of real interest are enumerate*Tpiyola^ a tlsh considered a delicacy by the Neapolitans. At a short distance inland, enclosed on three sides by chestnut and vine-clad hills, lies the celebrated *Lacu8 Avemus, regarded by the ancients as the entrance to the infernal regions on account of its sombre situation and environs. Tradition alleged that no bird could fly across it and live, owing to the poisonous exhala- tions , and that the neighbouring ravines were the abode of the ghastly and sunless Cimmerii, mentioned by Homer fOdyss. XI.). Virgil, too, represents this as the scene of the descent of ^neas, conducted by the Sibyl, to the infernal regions. Augustus, by the construction of the Julian harbour and by connecting this lake with the Lacus Lucrinus, was the tirst to dispel these gloomy legends. Horace and Vitgil accordingly extol the harbour as a prodigy , although the Roman fleet more frequently lay in the Lucrine than the Avernian lake. The canals and wharfs of Agrippa Avere still in existence in 1538, but the upheaval of the Monte Nuovo destroyed every vestige of them, half tilled the Lucrine lake, and so altered the contiguration of the neighbourhood that the tAvo lakes are noAv entirely separated and the intervening space completely overgrown Avith underAvood. The Lacus Avernus is of a circular form, now about 1^2 ^1- in circumference, 4 ft. above the level of the sea and 200 ft. in depth. In 1858, the plan of connecting it Avith the bay of Baiae by ' means of canals , in order to afford a secure harbour for vessels i of Avar, was again revived, but tAvo years later abandoned. The grottoes and cuttings observed in the S. side of the lake, hewn in the tuffstone rock, were probably connected with the- works of the Portus Julius. One of these caverns is now termed ' the Grotto of the Sibyl. It is entered by a gateAvay of brick i and consists of a long, damp passage heAvn in the rocks and I ventilated by vertical apertures. About midway between the two ! lakes a narrow passage to the r. leads to a small square cham- t ber, the ^^Entrance to the infernal regionsK Near it is a cham- j ber Avith Mosaic pavement and the arrangements for a warm i bath. It contains luke-Avarm water, 1 ft. in depth, Avhich flows from a spring in a neighbouring chamber, and is termed by the guides the ^^Bath of the SihyP. The entire grotto is 280 paces in length and blackened Avith the smoke of the torches. Another entrance in the vicinity is now obstructed. (Visitors to these by no means attractive Avater-grottoes are carried by the guides . Torches necessary, the proximity of which is disagreeable, 1 1. each ; admission to the grottoes 1 1. for each pers. ; preliminary bargaining necessary.) On the W. side of the Lacus Avernus is of Naples. BATA. 5. Route. 9^ another long passage, which served to connect the lake with Cumae (p. 98). On the E. side are the interesting ruins of 3nce magnificent Baths, sometimes termed a Temple of Apollo, )r Pluto, or Mercury. We now return to the high-road to Baiae. Beyond the Lucrine :lake are situated le Stufe di Tritoli , the ruins of ancient baths, [n the immediate vicinity a path on the slope of the mountain 'ieads to the Bagni di Nerone, a long, narrow, dark passage in l^jthe rock, at the farther extremity of which several warm springs- lake their rise, termed Thermae Neronianae by the ancients, and m modern times sought by invalids. The water is sufficiently warm to cook eggs (for which 1 1.; access to the baths 1/2 I These passages contain no object of interest, and are so satura- ted with water and of so high a temperature that a visit to them :ks anything but pleasant. As Baia (Hotel della Regina, poor, no fixed charges. Giosa- fatto de Lucio is recommended as a guide, II/ 2 — 2 1. for the ifternoon, according to arrangement), the ancient Baiae, is ap- .proached, innumerable fragments of ancient masonry, passages, halls, mosaic pavements etc. are observed on the hill to the r., i now overgrown and buried in rubbish. I The splendour of Baiae rapidly declined after the fall of the Roman empire. In the 8th cent, it was sacked by the Saracens. I ind in 1500 entirely abandoned by its inhabitants. Shortly after- . wards the viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo erected a Fort here , to which a lighthouse on the promontory was subsequently added. ■ Baiae as a Roman watering-place is very frequently spoken of in the time of Cicero, Augustus, Nero and Hadrian. ‘^Nothing in the world can be compared with the lovely bay of Baiae”, ex- j elaims the wealthy Roman in one of Horace’s Epistles (I. 85), ; who is desirous of erecting for himself a magnificent villa there.. ; As a foundation for such edifices vast piers were thrown out into ’the sea; of these traces may still be distinguished. Luxury and profligacy soon took up their abode here, of which the desolate 1 ruins which now alone encounter the eye point the usual moral. iThree of the larger halls belonged to different Baths. '(■ First, to the r. of the road in a vineyard stands an extensive circular building, with a vaulted ceiling open in the centre, and \i recesses in the walls, evidently a bath, but styled a * Temple yof Mercury, and by the peasantry il troglio (trough). There is ' i remarkable echo in the interior (fee 30 — 50 c. ; old weirds here I offer to dance the tarantella for the amusement of travellers, an pntertainment which may be with safety declined). Somewhat farther to the r. , is an Osteria where good wine may be procured; other refreshments tolerable. About 100 paces beyond, to the 1. by the small harbour where the boats from Poz- 90 Route 5. J’>AC0L1. Environs ziioli land, is situated an octagonal structure with vaulted ceiling, in the interior circular and 25 paces in diameter, with remnants of the ancient lateral chambers , and of the windows and stair- cases , somewhat resembling the Minerva Medica at Rome , now termed the * Temple of Venus. (As this is a public thorough- fare, no gratuity need be given.) The third ruin , in a vineyard to the r. , a massive octagon, circular in the interior and with four recesses and traces of a water-conduit, is now termed a ^Temple of Diana (fee 30—50 c.). From the harbour of Baiee an excursion may be made by boat (3—4 1.) to the Cento Camerelle (see below), Piscina mirabilis and Misenum. The high road skirts the bay and then ascends a slight emi- mence, passing the fort of Bai® to the 1. Between the fort and Capo Miseno, 1 M. from the former, above the Mare morto , lies the village of Bacoli (Trattoria del Monte di Procida , good wine from the Monte di Procida, see p. 100), the ancient Villa Bauli , the foundation of which was ascribed to Hercules, notorious as the place where Nero planned the murder of his mother Agrippina, March, A. D. 59. The j horrible crime was afterwards perpetrated at her villa on the Lu- I crine lake. The tomb of Agrippina, of humble pretensions as Tacitus informs us (Ann. 14, 9), was situated on the height by | the road to Misenum, near the villa of C®sar. The spot can no i longer be exactly determined. What is commonly termed the ! Sepolcro di Agrippina^ on the coast below the village, a semicir- ^ cular passage with vaulted ceiling, reliefs and paintings, is really the ruins of a small theatre. Extensive ruins near this , partly under water, belong, it is said, to the villa of the eminent orator Hortensius, and may be visited by boat. Even the pond in which he reared his favourite mur®n® is alleged to be visible. In this villa Nero is said to have sanctioned the suggestion of his freed- man Anicetus, commander of the fleet, • to drown his mother Agrip- pina by submerging her in a ship. The attempt, however, fai- led, as she succeeded in escaping in a small boat. I The Villa of Julius Caesar^ on the height near Bauli, was i afterwards the property of Augustus and was occupied by his I sister Octavia after the death of her second husband M. Antony; | and here she lost her hopeful son the youthful Marcellus , whom i Augustus had destined to be his successor. It is believed by many that subterranean chambers, known as Cento Camerelle., or ('(irceri di Nerone , or the Labyrinth , were portions of the base- ment story of this villa,, On the height between Bacoli and the marshy Mare Morto, V 4 Horn the former, to the 1., is situated the "^Tiscina Mira- bilis (fee 1/2 1-)? ^ reservoir at the extremity of the Julian Aque- duct, 220 ft. in length, 83 ft. in width, with a vaulted ceiling of Naples. MISENUM. 5. Route. 97 supported by 48 massive columns, admirably preserved. Somewhat higher a fine view is obtained, but inferior to that from the Capo Miseno. On the r., as the Piscina is approached from Bacoli, is the dwelling of a dealer in antiquities, of whom vases etc. found in the environs may be purchased. On the Punta di Pennata , a narrow promontory which bounds the harbour of Misenum on the N., are situated ruins, believed to have pertained to the Villa of I Cornelia^ mother of the Gracchi, who died here. Her predecessor in the proprietorship of the villa was Marius, her successor Lu- cullus. Augustus or Agrippa caused a double channel to be cut through the Punta di Pennata, with a view to diminish the ac- cumulation of sand in the harbour. A quay resting on pillars, three oT which are visible under water, was also constructed. The harbour of Misenum was constructed by Augustus in ac- cordance with Agrippa’s design , and destined for the reception of the fleet in the Mediterranean, as that of Ravenna for the fleet in the Adriatic. It consisted of three basins , two external , on either side of the promontory of Porno, and one internal, the present Mare Morto, which was subsequently separated by a pier from the other and thus partially converted into a marsh. From the reign of Augustus to that of Titus the fleet lay here. At the extremity of the quay already alluded to , rises abruptly the pyramidal Capo Miseno (268 ft.), a conspicuous object from a distance, where according to Virgil (^n. VI. 232), Misenus, the trumpeter of ^Hneas , was buried. The ascent requires 3/4 hr. from Bacoli; *view celebrated. The town of Misenum was de- stroyed in 890 by the Saracens. Remnants of a theatre may be distinguished on the small promontory il Porno , and some scanty ruins on the height are said to have belonged to the celebrated villa of Lucullus, afterwards the property of Tiberius, who expi- red here , and of Nero. The Grotta Dragonara, a long subterra- nean passage to the r. of the promontory of Miseno, with vaul- ted ceiling resting on 22 columns , is regarded by some as a na- val magazine, by others as a reservoir. Nearer the sea stand two picturesque mediaeval watch towers. To the W. of Capo Miseno and the Mare Morto rises the Monte di Procida, a volcanic rock, covered with vineyards, which gield excellent wine, and fragments of ancient villas. The long , narrow strip of land between Capo Miseno and the Monte di Procida , which separates the Mare Morto , or old har- bour, from the sea, is termed Miniscola or Miliscola, said to be contracted from Militis schola, an ^^exercising-ground for soldiers”. Opportunities of crossing the Canale di Procida from this point to Ischia or the less distant Procida may generally be obtained here (I 1 / 2 — 2 1.). Baedeker. Italy III. 2d. Edition. 7 98 Route 5. CVMJF., Environ f The plain between the Mare Morto and tlie Lago del Fusaro^ hounded on the N.E. by Monte Selvatichi, un the S.W. by the Monte di Prociday has been termed by antiquarians, who have endeavoured to identify this district with that described in the 6th bk. of the iEneid, Campi Elysii. It is admirably cultivated in the form of gardens and vineyards and possesses numerous tombs, most of them, according to the inscriptions, of sailors of the Misenian fleet. They are situated on the ancient road from Cumfe to Misenum, especially at the place now called Mercato di Sabato^ ^;4 M. from Bacoli. Where the road , to the 1. near the Monte Nuovo leads to Baia*, that to the r. gradually ascends to Cumae. The Lacus Avernus- soon becomes visible to the 1. below. Where the road divides, that to Cumse leads to the 1. and soon reaches f3 M. from Poz- zuoli) the *Arco Felice, a huge structure of brickwork, 60 ft. in height, 18 ft. in width, situated in a deep gully. On the sum- mit are traces of a water-conduit. The arch may have been ex- clusively destined for the latter purpose, or it may also have carried the road over the higher ground. About 400 paces beyond the Arco Felice, on the road to Cumae, an ancient paved way diverges to the 1. to a vaulted passage. La Grotta di Pietro della Pace (deriving its name from a Spaniard who explored it in the 16th cent.), constructed by Agrippa, and affording the most direct communication between Cumae and the Lacus Avernus. This tunnel, upwards of 1/2 length, is illuminated at intervals i by shafts from above. Travellers from Cumae, or those who wish j so to combine the excursion to Baiae with a visit to the Lacus 1 Avernus as not to be obliged twice to traverse the same ground, , may avail themselves of this grand tunnel in order to reach the j N.W. bank of the lake (for pedestrians only). I The scanty ruins of the ancient Cumae are 1^/2 M. distant j from the Arco Felice. About mid-way, where the road to the 1. , diverges to the Lago del Fusaro, is situated an Amphitheatre with | 21 tiers of seats, partially concealed by earth and underwood. On both sides of the road and at the foot of the rock of Cumae nu- ■ merous tombs have been discovered, many of which were exa- ; mined by the Count of Syracuse and yielded a valuable collection j of vases and precious relics of every description. Some of these I are now preserved in the museum at Naples (raccolta Cumana, : p. 73), others, formerly in the collection of the Marchese Cam- pana, are now in the museums of Paris and St. Petersburg. Cumse, the most ancient Greek colony in Italy, once a power- ful commercial city , imperilled by the attacks of the Etruscans B. C. 474, but victorious through the aid of Hiero of Syracuse, in 417 conquered by the Samnites and a century later by Rome, was situated near the sea on a volcanic eminence (trachyte), winch rises from the extensive plain between the Monte di Pro- cida and the mouth of the Volturno. The town, whence the Ro- mans obtained the Sibylline books, and where the last of the Ro- of Naples. LAGO DEL FUSARO. 5. Route. 99 man kings died in banishment , fell entirely to decay under the emperors. It was restored at a later period by the Goths, but was burned down in the 9th cent, by the Saracens and in the 13th completely destroyed by the inhabitants of Naples and Aversa as a harbour of pirates. The huge external walls of the lofty * Acropolis are still standing; beautiful prospect hence of the sea, as far as Gaeta and the Ponza islands, and of the Lago Fusaro and Ischia etc. to the 1. Considerable remnants of the ancient fortifications are preserved, especially on the E. side and by the S. entrance. The rock on which this castle stands is perforated in all directions with passages and shafts , all of which are not easily explored. One of these caverns with numerous lateral ope- nings and subterranean passages appears to correspond with the description which Yirgil (^n. YI. 41) gives of the * Grotto of the Sibyl (as it is accordingly called) , which had a hundred en- trances and as many issues, ‘Vhence as many voices resound, the oracles of the prophetess’". The principal entrance is on the side of the hill towards the sea , but the passages are in a great ! measure choked up. A flight of steps leads to the 1. out of the largest cavern to a small, dark chamber, unconnected with the upper portion of the rock. It is believed that one of the principal passages leads to a large, dark cavern in the direction of the Lago del Fusaro, but investigations have been abandoned as dangerous. The Temple of Apollo is a conspicuous object on the summit of the rock. A fragment of a fluted pillar and a capital, both of j the ancient Doric order, are the sole remains. The so-called I Temple of the Giants, now entirely destroyed, once contained the I colossal statue in a sitting posture of Jupiter Stator, now in the ; museum at Naples. In the Temple of Serapis , of the imperial [period, colossal Egyptian statues were discovered in 1839. The : Temple of Diana , excavated in 1852 by the Count of Syracuse, which was 100 ft. in length and circular at one end, has been i deprived of its beautifully executed Corinthian cipolline columns and capitals. j To the S. of Cumse is situated (D/2 ^^0 Lago del Fusaro, ■ perhaps once the harbour of Cumae , to which the poetical name I of Acherusian Lake is sometimes applied. It is still, as in an- I oient times, celebrated for its oysters. In the centre is a pavilion, 'erected by Ferdinand I. The lake is believed to be the crater S')! an extinct volcano, and as late as 1838 emitted such volumes ! )f mephitic gases that the oysters were destroyed by them. At j :he S. end of the lake is a Roman canal, Foce del Fusaro, Avhich ijbonnects it with the sea. On the N. side, on a projecting tongue j )f land, stands the Torre di Gaveta, with extensive ruins of the If /ilia of Servilius Yatia , who retired hither when Nero’s folly and I, -yranny at Rome had become insufferable. Hence to Baiae 1 M. 100 Environs 6. Procida and Ischia. Com, 2). Map,, p. 86. \ A visit to these charming islands requires 2 days. The easiest mode of | reaching them varies according to the season and the weather. In summer, from the beginning of June, when the mineral baths of Casamicciola (p. 102) in Ischia are much frequented, steamboats (English and Italian companies) ply between the main-land and the islands (offices, Molo Piccolo 36)^ at 8. 30 a. m. and 2 p. m. in 2^12 hrs. to Procida, Ischia and Casa- micciola; 1st cl. 5 1., 2nd cl. 3 1. 50 c., return-ticket 6 1.; embarcation at Naples 25 c. for each pers., landing 10 c.; at Procida and Ischia, to or from the steamer, 10 c. ; at Casamicciola 20 c. The boatmen are of course dis- satisfied with these charges (fixed by tariff), but no attention need be paid to their gesticulations. The steamers are small, unpunctual and occasionally crowded. When the traffic is dull they sometimes reduce their fares; return -tickets (available during the season) are generally issued at 6 and 51. In winter the communication is maintained by steamboat once weekly. Unattractive as these vessels are, they afford the easiest means of reaching the islands. Market- boats to Procida (*| 2 l- each pers.) perform the passage I of 14 M. in 2 hrs. if the wind be favourable, but sometimes not in less than 5—6 hrs. A market-boat also starts from Pozzuoli (p. 89); a rowing-boat thence to Procida 6 1. The passage is shortest from Miniscola (p. 97), about 21(4 M. (2 1.), but boats are not always to be had. A visit to Procida occupies a few hours only. It must depend on cir- cumstances whether it is accomplished in going or returning. In the former case the traveller lands at the town of Procida on the N. side, ascends to the fort for the sake of the view and then traverses the island longitudinally to the creek of Chiaiolella (2 M.), where boats are found for the crossing to Ischia (lij 2 1.). Thence the traveller may proceed on foot (or donkey lij 2 1.) to Casamicciola and there pass the night. On the 2nd day he may ascend the Epomeo (p. 103) and either return to Casamicciola or descend | to Forio ; thence by steamboat to Naples, or only to Ischia if he should con- template a visit to Capo Miseno and Pozzuoli before returning to the capital. Oood inns at Procida, Ischia and Casamicciola; the latter preferable on account of its delightful situation. The passage from Ischia to Capri may be accomplished by rowing-boat in 6 hrs. in favourable weather (20 L). Procida, the Proehyta or Prochyte of the ancients, is, like its sister island Ischia , with which it appears once to have been j connected, of volcanic origin, consisting of pumice-stone and lava. It is formed by two contiguous craters, the S. verges of which have been destroyed by the action of the sea, thus constituting two semicircular bays. A third and smaller crater forms the creek of Chiaiolella, and a fourth the neighbouring island of Vivara , which has been separated from Procida by some con- vulsion of nature. The island is 3 M. in length, varying in width, in some places • very narrow; population 14,000, whose resources consist of fishing, the cultivation of fruit and production of wine. The surface is somewhat flat compared with its more majestic sister isle. As it is approached , the most conspicuous object is the fort, situated on the Punta di Rocciola, the N.W. ex.tremity. Beneath lies the town of Procida^ facing the M., partially built on the higher ground above and then extending towards the S. side. The white, glistening houses with their of Naples. ISCHIA. 6. Route. 101 fiat roofs present a somewhat oriental aspect. On festivals, especially that of St. Michael (Sept. 29th), the women in com- memoration of their ancient origin assume the Greek costume (red upper garment with gold embroidery), and accompanied by the clash of cymbals perform their national dance the tarantella. The principal landing place is on the N. side. The steam- boats, however, occasionally pass on the S. side in unfavourable weather. From the N. landing-place a street ascends by the Cafe del Commercio^ and the street to the 1. leads to the Piazza, whence a pleasing prospect towards the S. is enjoyed. A me- morial tablet was placed here in 1863 , recording the names of 12 inhabitants of the island who were executed at the time of the reaction of 1799. (About 10 min. walk farther, in the , Str. Beneficio to the r., is the ^Trattoria di Campagna., which I also affords accommodation for the night.) The approach to the PI fort, situated on a precipitous rock, ascends to the 1.; magnifl- J'.cent *view. "■ A road from the town leads S. , passing numerous groups of , houses, to the creek of Chiaiolella (2^/^ M.), below' the ancient ; castle of S. Margarita and near the small olive -clad island of Vivara, whence Ischia may be attained in ^4 hr. As the latter ( island is approached it presents a most beautiful picture with ! i its picturesquely shaped mountains , commanded by the lofty [ Epomeo, and everywhere luxuriantly clothed with rich vegetation. On the shore , situated on streams of lava which extend to the i sea , is a long row of white houses , commanded by the imposing- fort. Towards the N.E. the sharply defined outlines of the i mountains of Terracina may be distinguished: more to the E. i the broad, pyramidal mountain of Gaeta; to the S.E. , beyond [ Procida, Vesuvius. Ischia, the Pithecusa^ Mnaria or Inarime of the ancients, the : mediaeval Iscla , the largest island near Naples , is upwards of : 15 M. in circumference , not taking the numerous indentations ‘ into account, and has a population of 28,000, whose principal I resources consist of fishing and the culture of the vine and other ; fruit. The climate is genial, the soil extremely productive (white i wine, light and slightly acid); the scenery singularly beautiful, for which it is indebted to its volcanic origin. Monte Epomeo \ (the ancient Eporneus or Epopos) was an active volcano at a , much earlier period than Vesuvius, and in consequence of its eruptions was deserted B. C. 474 by the greater number of its ^ Greek inhabitants. Eruptions also took place B. C. 92, and under Titus, Antoninus Pius and Diocletian. According to the ancient poets , the giant Typhoeus , transfixed by the thunderbolt of Jupiter, lay buried beneath this mountain, like Enceladus ■ under ^tna, periodically groaning and occasioning fearful erup- 102 Route 6. ISCHIA. Environs tions of fire. The most recent eruption recorded took place in 1302 , on which occasion a stream of lava descended to the sea near Ischia. After the fall of Rome Ischia suffered many attacks and devastations at the hands of the different lords of Italy, especially the Saracens in 813 and 847, the Pisans in 1135, the emp. Henry VI. and his son Frederick II., then Charles 11. of Naples, to which Ischia has since been subject and intimately associated with the vicissitudes of the capital. The celebrated general, the Marchese Pescara^ was born at the castle of Ischia in 1489, which was afterwards gallantly defended by his sister Constance against the forces of Louis XII. of France. As a reward, her family were invested with the governorship of Ischia, M'hich they retained till 1734. In 1525 Pescara’s widow Vittoria Colonna, celebrated alike for her talent and beauty, the poetical friend of Michael Angelo, retired to Ischia to mourn her husband’s loss. So too Maria of Arragon in 1548, widow of the Mar- chese del Vasto. The charming situation of this island has attracted numerous visitors in all ages, and its fascinating influence is still as power- ful as in ancient times. A residence here during the height of summer is strongly to be recommended on account of the re- freshing coolness of the air. The N. side, having been most exposed to volcanic action, is far more beautiful than the ,S. The principal towns are Ischia, Casamicciola and Forio. Ischia (Locanda Nobile in the Piazza, tolerable; Trattoria of Giuseppe Buono)^ capital of the island, with 6000 inhabitants and seat of a bishop, possesses nothing to interest the traveller. The view from the lofty insulated Fort, erected by Alphonso I. of Arragon and connected with the land by a stone pier, is fine; but access can only be obtained by permission of the comman- dant, who occasionally declines to grant it. The town, pictures- quely situated on the coast, extends from the fort to the Punta Molina. The route to Casamicciola ( 41/2 M.) is in many parts very beautiful. It leads to the baths in the vicinity, crossing the Lava delT Arso or lava-stream of 1302, which however did not descend from Epomeo, but from an inferior crater in the vicinity, where slag and pumice-stone are still observed. The Lake of Ischia in the neighbourhood, about 1^4 M. from the town, is an ancient crater , filled with salt water , and in modern times con- nected with the sea in order to afford refuge to vessels overtaken by stormy weather. To the 1. of the lake is situated the royal Casino or villa, with beautiful grounds. The road then turns inland and ascends to the loftily situated Casamicciola (landing-place 11/4 M. distant; boat to or from steamer 20 c. each pers. ; donkey to the hotel 50 c. ; the road from the landing-place thither, ascending to the r. , cannot be mistaken : order strictly maintained at the landing-place by the authorities), a village with 3 — 4000 inhabitants and in summer of Naples. ISCHIA. 6. Route. 103 (May to September) a much frequented watering-place on account of its numerous thermal springs. Persons in health also fre- quently take up their summer quarters here. Lodgings may be procured here as well as in Forio (see below). The hotels are also adapted for a stay of some duration ; for passing travellers the charges are as high, though the accommodation does not warrant it, as those of first cl. hotels. They are all detached, situated in gardens and commanding magnificent prospects. "Hotel Bellevue, the yellow house farthest to the r. with the finest view, visited by Garibaldi i in 1863. La Gran Sentinella, a grotesque-looking, pink house, delight- fully situated, but recently complained of; previous understanding necessary; pension about 61. Lower down; "Hotel des Etrangers, a comfortable Louse, English landlady, pension 7 1.; Vil 1 a S a u v e (French) and Villa Bivas, pension 81.: Pension Villa Pisani; GranBretagna, still lower, to the 1. by the public rooms. Many delightful walks and excursions may be taken from this point. Thus to the village of Lacco, situated on the lava-stream ^ind forming the N.W. extremity of the island. Here the church and monastery of St. Restituta , the patroness of the island , are situated, on the occasion of whose festival (May 17th) numerous Oreek costumes and dancers of the tarantella are observed. In the vicinity of the monastery and in the garden attached to it are the sources of springs of very high temperature, and there- fore employed for vapour-baths, Forio, the most populous place in the island with 6700 in- habitants, scattered irregularly along the W. coast, is 3 M. distant. I The Franciscan monastery by the sea merits a visit on account j of the beauty of its situation. The ascent of the mountain **Epomeo (2700 ft.), the finest of all the excursions, may be undertaken from any of the prin- cipal towns and occupies 2 — 3 hrs. A direct, but precipitous I and fatiguing path ascends from Casamicciola. Donkeys are ge- I iierally employed for the ascent (3 — 4 1. , at the hotels 5 1. are I demanded). Those who desire to return by the steamboat the I same day should descend to Ischia or Forio and thus become I acquainted with the greater part of the island. The whole ex- cursion from Naples , ascent of Epomeo and return to the capital r can be accomplished in a single day if necessary : but it need r hardly be added that such a hurried expedition cannot be atten- ! ded with muoh enjoyment. The afternoon and evening light is the most favourable for the view. ' The route from Casamicciola first descends to the 1. by the ■ public rooms and follows the road to Ischia. The footpath then ! ascends to the r. , occasionally traversing precipitous ravines. The vegetation changes ; beneath are vineyards , then chestnut- woods and finally barren , rocky ground. Beyond the culminating point of the pass , the path skirts the S. side of the mountain, beneath the principal peaks, and ascends in long zigzags, till the 104 Route G. ISCHIA. Environ H Hermitage is attained (^donkey 2^2 Iirs. ; on foot by the moro direct path in 2 hrs. ). On the summit is a hermitage and chapel dedicated to S. Ni- cola, hewn in the volcanic rock. Wine and bread may be ob~ tained here and in any case a trifling donation is expected. Passages and steps cut in the rock ascend to the ** Belvederty commanding a singularly magnificent panorama, the most exten- sive in the vicinity of Naples , and embracing the three bays of Gaeta , Naples and Salerno. At the feet of the spectator lies- the island of Ischia itself; to the W. the open sea; to the E. the coast of Italy from Terraciria, the promontory of Circ(dlo and the Ponza islands to Capo Miseno, Vesuvius, the Capo Campa- neila and Psestum ; in the foreground Procida, the indentations of the Bay of Naples, to the r. the island of Capri; towards the N. the distant snowy peaks of the Abruzzi. The descent by the villages of Fontana , Moropano and Casabona, and finally across a desolate field of lava to Ischia occupies 2^/4 hrs. ; by Panza to Forio about the same distance. Ascent and descent are equally interesting, affording the most charming views. The following extracts from the writings of Nicolovius, an eminent German author and husband of Goethe’s niece, altliough dating from 1792,. are still in most respects applicable to the Ischia of the present day. “The climate of this charming island is genial, the sky rarely overcast,. ! the winters mild, the inhabitants bounteously supplied by nature with the , necessaries of life and the sick with healing springs. Trees, shrubs and ali i kinds of plants thrive luxuriantly in the rich volcanic soil. Here and there groves of young oaks and chestnuts are observed. Orange, pomegranate,, fig and arbutus trees are the most common in the gardens; the myrtle and mastich-tree form the most frequent underwood in the uncultivated parts- The inhabitants are distinguished by a peculiar dialect, costume and figure. Fashion is unknown. The island cannot boast of a single carriage or horse. The king himself on landing here must, like the humblest inhabitant, have recourse to a donkey, unless he prefers to walk .... Nowhere we have seen the tarantella, or national Neapolitan dance, in greater perfection than here. It is usually performed by two girls; a third plays on the tam- bourine and sings. The woes of an absent or unhappy lover are usually the therne of the song. In many of them the Madonna and Cupinto (Cupid> are depicted as in perfect harmony with each other. The dancers stand, opposite to each other, grasp the corners of their broad aprons and com- mence their evolutions. They place their arms alternately akimbo, raising; the other grasping the apron high in the air, occasionally drawing the Jipron tightly across the knee. The posture and the manipulation of the apron changes incessantly. At one time they flit past each other, at another with a slight curtsey and sweep of the foot give the sign to meet again, whereupon they relinquish their hold of the aprons and career round in a circle, striking their castanets with upraised hands or imitatirg^ the sound with their fingers. The caprice of the dancer is capable of imparting an entirely difTerent character to the dance, which is generally intende buttresses at intervals, each projecting farther than the last. The portico is borne by 48 columns, which, originally of the Doric order, had been by means of stucco converted into the Corinthian ; but this coating has now fallen off. The temple itself rises in the centre of the court, on a basement 67 V 2 ft- in length, 40 ft. in width and 7^/^ in height, and is approached by 13 steps. Facing these stands an altar, bearing an inscription of the dedi- cators, the quatuorviri of the town. The still visible traces show that it was employed for bloodless offerings of incense, such as were usually presented to Venus. To the r. in the colonnade, a statue of unknown import. The temple itself was surrounded by a colonnade and had a facade of 6 columns. Within the vestibule was the shrine, where the figure of the goddess stood on a lofty pedestal. A much mutilated statue of Venus was found here. Fine* view of M. Santangelo from this point. — Behind the court of the temple are chambers for the priestesses, decorated with paintings. The * Forum or Forum Civile fPl. 57} forms the central point of the town. On the N. side, detached, stands the temple of Jupiter (p. 122); the other sides are enclosed by an arcade. The- Area, or open space in the centre, is 530 ft. in length and IIIV 2 ft. in breadth, and paved with large slabs. Six streets converge here , but. the forum was protected against the trespass of riders or w^aggons by pillars of stone round the verges , and could even be entirely shut off by gates. In the area are 22 bases for sta- tues, erected in honour of emperors and other illustrious men, 5- of which (4 on the W. side, 1 at the S.E. corner) still bear the inscriptions , dedicated to officials of high rank, the duumviri {si- milar to the consuls of Rome) and quinquennales (censors) of the town. The extensive basements on the S. side were destined for equestrian statues, most of the pedestals never having been com- pleted. The colonnade which surrounds the Forum varies in breadth from 27 to 47 ft. , a number of the buildings which ad- join it having been erected at a date prior to the establishment of the Forum. Above the lower columns of the Doric order rose a second series of the Ionic , thus constituting an upper , covered passage, approached by steps, several of which are still preserved. The whole was in an unfinished condition at the period of the destruction of the town; portions of the frieze, consisting of li- mestone, placed round the colonnade, are still in a rough state:, on the S. and E. sides are older columns of tuffstone. To the r. of the Basilica, on the S. side of the Forum, are situated the Tribunals, 3 contiguous apartments, each with a he- micyclical extremity. As they do not harmonize with the rest of the Forum, they are believed to be of earlier origin. Their desti- of Naples. POMPEII. 8. Route. 121 lanatioii in not distinctly ascertained; they appear to have served IJas courts for suits of inferior importance. To the r., by the tribunals, the Street of the Schools diver- ges, pursuing an E. direction as far as the Forum Triangidare ; the excavated houses are again partially covered with rubbish and therefore devoid of interest. On the E. side of the Forum, at the corner of the handsome Str. dell’ Abbondanza, is a square hall, erroneously supposed to be a school. On the opposite side of the street is situated the *Chalcidi- cum (PI. 62), erected by the priestess Eumachia, and perhaps employed as an exchange. On the frieze of the portico facing I the Forum, and still more fully over the entrance in the Str. ^deir Abbondanza, the following inscription may be read ; ‘^Eumachia Lucii filia sacerdos publica ■ nomine suo et M. Numistri Frontonis fili chalcidicum cryptam porticus , Concordiae Augustae Pietati sua \ pecunia fecit eademqiie dedicavit.^^ The interior is separated from the portico by a number of small chambers , which served as a kind of magazine , where a great number of marble slabs were found, destined for the completion of the edifice. In the interior : is an open court, 125 ft. in length, 841/4 ft. in width, surrounded by 54 columns of Parian marble , of which , however , three only were left in a mutilated condition. ^ This colonnade [chalcidicum} ! is surrounded by a covered passage [crypta), which afforded pro- tection against the weather. At the back of this , in a niche, I stands the statue of Eumachia (a copy, the original is at Naples)^ . erected by the fullers (fullones} of Pompeii. On the external w^all of the Chalcidicum is the copy of an -inscription found here, dedicated to Romulus. The visitor next .reaches the so-called * Temple of Mercury (PI. 61), 841/2 in • length, 54 ft. in breadth. A number of the objects discovered in the course of the excavations have been placed here: vases, < spouts of fountains, rain-gutters, capitals, stone-weights with iroit handles , mortars , earthenware etc. To the 1. of the entrance jlare vessels of lead, fragments of glass, bone articles, iron gra- tings, fetters, tires of waggon-wheels ; to the r. earthenware and j fragments of marble. In the centre an * altar in marble with reliefs : on the front victims , on the sides the utensils employed . in connection with the sacrifice. [j The form of this temple is very irregular. At the extremity ' of the area is the small shrine with a pedestal for the statue of : the god. Contiguous to the latter is the Curia., where, as is generally believed, the town-council held their deliberations. It is a square hall, 671/2 ff- 7 61 ft. broad, with hemicyclical termination I and several niches, but greatly damaged. 122 ^^oute S. POMPEII. Environs Opposite, OH the N. side of the Forum and in the most con- spicuous part of it, rises the * Temple of Jupiter (PI. 00), on a basement 10 ft. in height. At the time of the eruption it was in process of being entirely restored. The Pronaos is approached by 18 steps and has a facade of 0 columns with 3 on each side. Apertures in the ground admit light to the underground chambers which then served as a magazine for building materials, originally probably a treasury. The entire length of the temple is 122 ft. Behind the Pronaos is the shrine with 2 series of columns, 8 in each, arranged close to the walls, which are painted in the brightest colours. At the back are three chambers. At the farther extremity, to the 1., a stair ascends to the upper story of the temple, which the visitor should not omit to see as it affords a fine panorama of the ruins of Pompeii, M. Santangelo •crowned by the chapel of S. Michele, the castle of Quisisana and the chain of the Apennines. On the W. .side, passing by the Temple of Venus, the visitor i observes at the end of the latter a niche, in which, as an in- scription found here informs us, the public weights and measures were kept. Then follows a stair, which led to the arcade and formed an approach to the Temple of Venus. Contiguous to the latter is the so-called Lesche , a hall apparently for public pur- poses. Beyond this is a building, which from its narrow, gloomy cells appears to have been a prison. An adjacent wall separated it from the Forum. In the vicinity, adjoining the Temple of Jupiter, is a triumphal arch. At the E. end of the Forum, contiguous to the Curia, stands the so-called * Temple of Augustus (PL 58) , sometimes termed the Pantheon , an edifice whose object is involved in mystery. In front of it are pedestals for statues; on the exterior, shops possibly occupied by money-changers. The interior is entered by 2 doors; it consists of a rectangular court, 125 ft. in length, 91 ft. in width, the walls decorated with frescoes, those to the 1. of the entrance the best preserved, representing Jupiter and lo, Odysseus and Penelope. The court was yet unfinished when the catastrophe took place; it was destined to be enclosed by a colonnade, but on the N. and W. sides only have the limestone slabs of the pavement been laid, whilst on the other sides the enclosure is formed by tuffstone blocks. A dodecagon is formed, in the centre by 12 pedestals for statues. To the r. are 12 cham- bers simply painted red , at the extremity an issue into a back street. To the 1. is one of the principal issues to the Street of the Augustales (named after this edifice). On the FL side, oppo- site as the building is entered, rises the shrine. On the prin-i cipal pedestal stood the statue of the emperor, in the side niches Juvia and Drusns (here replaced by copies). To the 1. of this POMPEII. S. Route. j^23 of Naples. ihrine was another with an altar, which- perhaps was employed n the celebration of the sacrificial banquets ; the gallery by the ateral wall is believed to have been an orchestra. To the r. a ■larger apartment with stands of masonry with a slight inclination -and furnished with gutters beneath to carry off the blood or Hvater, possibly a kitchen. The whole was perhaps employed by ;he college of Augustales. The arrangements recal the Serapeum it Pozzuoli (p. 90). ;! Adjacent to the Temple of Augustus rises the Triumphal [Arch , constructed of brick , which forms the boundary of the '{b'orum in this direction; its former marble covering no longer Exists. Under it terminates the Street of the Forum, or, as it I s called in its prolongation, the Street of Mercury. The first transverse street is that of the Augustales. At the corner, a .•elief with figures of two men carrying a wine-jar: the sign of a vine-merchant. We now follow the Street of the Forum. To the r. a small Museum, repository of objects in bronze, iron, ead, terracotta and colours, a number of loaves etc. Beyond it i i room containing a * model of Pompeii. I The Street of the Forum now leads to the Temple of For- j itna, to the r. at the corner of the first transverse street, erec- ted according to the inscription by M. Tullius. It is approached 1 )y 13 steps; the length 81 ft., breadth 307-2 ft- Two portrait- i .tatues found in the Celia are believed to have pertained to the ijrens Tullia. At the beginning of the Street of Mercury rises an arch of : )rickwork, on which the pipes of a water-conduit are visible. ■ We now turn to the 1. into the Strada delle Terme. The Ind door to the 1. is the entrance to the ^Thermse (PI. 39), ’ vhich occupy almost an entire insula , i. e. the space enclosed py 4 streets; breadth 1657-2 ff-^ depth 179 ft. The exterior was i .urrounded by shops , which had no connection with the interior. ' Entrances 6 in number. A large portion of the establishment is ! low employed as magazines , and the public are admitted to one lalf of the actual baths only. A passage leads first to the cham- [)er for undressing (apodyteriurn)^ 3774 ft- loug, 2072 ft- wide, urrounded by benches. Beyond this the cold bath ( frigidarium), li- rotunda with 4 niches. The vault above was provided with 7 glass window. In the centre the basin, 13% ft. in diameter, -vith a marble ledge surrounding it. From the undressing room ‘0 the r. the w^arm bath (tepidarium) is entered, an apartment S3% ft. in length, 17 ft. in breadth. A frieze surrounding it is urnished with niches for clothes and performing the toilet, Supported by figures of Atlas in terracotta. The vaulting was •‘ichly decorated, partly with stucco figures in relief, ddiis cham- ^'er was heated by means of air-pipes , and by a large brazier of j 24 Route S. POMPEII. Environs bronze. Adjacent is the hot air bath (calidarium or sudatorium), of) ft. long, 18 ft. broad. A niche at the extremity contains a marble basin for washing the hands and face with cold water; it bears an inscription recording that it was erected at an expense of 5250 sesterces (44 1.). At the other end is the basin for warm baths. The apartment had double walls and floor, between which the steam diffused itself. — The baths also possessed an extensive colonnade, now converted into a garden, besides several other chambers and baths for women, all of which are inaccessible to the public. Nearly opposite to the Thermse is situated the * House of the Tragic Poet fPl. 38), one of the most elegant in Pompeii, so called from two representations found in the tablinurn , a poet reading and a theatrical rehearsal (these, together with beautiful paintings of subjects from the Iliad , are now in the museum at Naples); but more probably the house of a goldsmith, if we may judge from the trinkets discovered in the adjoining shop. This is represented by Bulwer in his “Last Days of Pompeii” as the dwelling of Glaucus. On the threshold was a dog in mosaic, with the inscription : “Cave canem”. The peristyle of 7 columns is closed in the rear by a wall , on which is a small shrine of the Lares. In a room to the 1. of the latter, Venus and Cupid fishing and the deserted Ariadne. In the triclinium on the r., Leda presenting Tyndareus with Castor, Pollux and Helen in a nest, Theseus abandoning Ariadne, and two unexplained figures. We now pursue our route through the Str. delle Terme. To< the r. the House of Pansa (PI. 37), one of the largest in Pompeii, occupying an entire insula, 331 ft. in length, 125 ft. in breadth. It comprises 16 shops and dwellings, facing the different streets. On the threshold was found a mosaic with the greeting SALVE. This house affords a normal specimen of e palatial residence of the imperial period, complete in all its ap- pointments: atrium, tablinurn, peristyle, cecus (to the 1., conti- guous, kitchen with the snakes); finally the garden or Xystus. We now proceed hence towards the Porta di Ercolano , diver- ging to the r. At the picturesque corner opposite is a tavern, to the 1. in front of which the street leads to the gate. Thi.‘ was an animated commercial street and contained few superio: residences. To the 1. is a house fitted up for a library and the receptioi of students supported by government. Farther on is a smal room on the same side, containing in glass cases the * casts o four bodies found in a narrow street in 1863. When they wer* discovered in the course of the excavations, plaster of Paris wa carefully poured into the cavities in which they had lain, and th figures and attitudes of the deceased in their death-struggle wer^ POMPEII. 6’. Route. 125 j of Naples. thus successfully obtained. Opposite is placed a man with his clothes gathered around him for flight; to the r. a girl with a "ring on her finger; to the 1. two women, one elderly and of .commanding figure, the other younger. Beside them are human -and canine skeletons. Opposite, on the r., is the House of Sallust (PI. 33), with gaily painted atrium , behind which the tablinum and a small irregularly shaped garden , with >a dining-room (triclinium) in the corner. The place of the peri- I style is in this case occupied by a small court enclosed by pillars, i to the r. of the atrium, which has been, though without good j, reason, styled the Venereum. On the wall opposite, ^Actaeon • observing Diana at the bath , converted into a stag and torn to pieces by his own dogs. ■ The following door leads to a Bake-house, with ovens and different hand-mills for grinding the corn. ; At the corner of the street, a fountain; behind it a cistern. The street of Narcissa here diverges to the r. , leading to the H town-wall, but contains no object of interest. The houses to the 1., on the slope of the eminence on which k the town stood, frequently possessed several stories and extensive ['vaults, employed as magazines. !: A large , open hall to the r. was a species of custom house, I where a number of weights and measures were found, one of I which had been stamped in the Capitol at Rome. A little farther, to the r. , is situated the House of the Sur- geon , so called from the discovery of a considerable number of surgical instruments. It is distinguished by its massive con- 1 struction of limestone blocks from the river Sarno , and is pro- bably the most ancient house in the town. To the r. the exteii- : sive House of the Vestals (PI. 25) is next reached, i To the 1., opposite, stands a spacious Tavern., with a Phallus towards the street, with a view to avert the evil eye. It possesses I 2 wine-tables and also an entrance for waggons. From the cham- bers in the rear , as w^ell as from the preceding and following houses on this side , a charming glimpse is obtained of the bay ' with the island of Capri, near the land the picturesque little ! rocky island of Rovigliano, to the r. Torre dell’ Annunziata. To the r. a tavern, then the Porta di Ercolano, to the r. of which a stair-case ascends to the * Town-wall which should be visited for the sake of the view. This wall, the most ancient 5 structure of Pompeii, is 2925 yds. in circumference, and consists I of an external and internal wall, the intervening space being ; filled with earth. The height of the external walls varies accor- ding to the ground from 27 to 34 ft. , that of the internal is uniformly 6^/4 ft. greater. Originally constructed of large blocks of lava and limestone, it was subsequently strengthened, perhaps 126 Route S. POMPKir. Environ!< during the Social war, by the addition of towers. It must then, whether from the siege of Sulla or other causes , have been ron- siderably damaged , and was hastily restored about the time of the war between Caesar and Pompey, the gaps being filled with concrete. The difference between the ancient and more recent mode of building is well illustrated by this portion of the wall by the Herculanean Gate. During the undisturbed peace of the imperial period , the walls on the side towards the sea were pro- bably removed and built over. The Gate of Herculaneum is one of the most recent structures. It consists of 3 series of arches, of which the central and largest has fallen in. The depth of the passage is 60 ft. Without this gate lay a considerable suburb , the Pagus Au- gustus Felix ^ named after the military colonies of Augustus. Of this one street only has been partially excavated , from which, however, several others diverged on either side. This is the so- called * Street of the Tombs, the great military road from Capua to Naples, Herculaneum, Pompeii and Reggio. The ancient Ro- man custom of burying the dead by the side of a high road is well know]i. Investigations have proved that rows of graves, similar to those discovered here, exist beyond the other gates also. The Street of Tombs is with respect to the environs the most beautiful part of the town. To the r. stands a large pedestal in an unfinished state. To the 1. the Tomb of Cerinius (PI. 22), a recess with seats. It has been alleged that this was a sentry-box and that the skele- ton contained in it was that of the sentinel who expired at his post; but this must be regarded only as an irrteresting fiction. To the 1. a semicircular seat with the tomb of the duumvir A. Veius. To the 1. the Tomb of Mamia {P\. 20); in front a seat like the above , with the inscription : ^'Mamiae Publii filiae sacerdoti pubiicae locus sepulturae datiis decurionum decretd’\ In the rear, enclosed by a low' wall , is the columbarium with the niches for the cinerary urns. A solitary cypress adorns the tomb. The view' from this seat of the bay and the mountains of Castellamare is singularly beautiful. A street diverges to the r., by the side of which is the Tomb of Terentius (PI. 18). Beyond it, to the r. , the Tomb of the (iarlands (PI. 16), so called from its decorations; name unknown. 'I'o the r. a tomb with open recess and seat. On the 1. is the so-called Villa of Cicero (PI. 13), again co- vered up. The buttresses visible belong to a colonnade which lay parallel to the street. i'o the r. 2 shops , then the House of the Mosaic Columns^ in a vtiry dilapidated state. Idie entrance leads into a garden,, of Naples. POMPEII. 8. Route. 127 at the extremity of which is a recess inlaid with mosaic, destined for a fountain. To the 1. a court with private chapel and altar. The 2 stair cases ascended to the upper story. Beyond the villa of Cicero several handsome monuments will be observed. First that of ServlUa. Then that of Scaurus with reliefs in stucco, representing the gladiatorial combats celebrated in honour of the deceased, but in a very imperfect state. Here- also a columbarium with niches. To the r. is a long arcade , in the rear of which shops w'ere situated. From the skeleton of a mule found here it has been suggested that this was a resort of peasants on market-days. In the last shop is a stove, the upper part of which consisted of earthenware vessels fltted together. The street which here diver- ges is unexcavated. To the r. several ruined tombs , the lirst of which is con- .jectured to have been an ustrimim (place where the dead were- burned). To the 1. a circular monument, name unknown. To the 1. the * Tomb of the Augustalis Calventius Quintus (PI. 6); beneath the inscription the bisellium. (seat of honour) accorded to him in recognition of his liberality is represented. To the r. * Tomb of the Libella family , of travertine and well preserved, with inscriptions. Beyond, to the r., are several other , ruined tombs , the inscriptions on which are partially preserved. To the 1. the * Tomb of Naevoleki Tyche , with chamber for the cinerary urns. This individual was a freedwoman, who, according to the inscription, destined this tomb for herself and C. Munatius I Faustus , chief official of this quarter of the town , and for their ! freedmen ; a relief beneath refers to the consecration of the tomb. I To the 1. is next observed a Triclmium ., destined for funeral j repasts. Then the * Villa of Diomedes (PI. 1), arbitrarily so ■ called from the opposite tomb of the family of Arrius Diomedes. I The arrangement of this , as well as other villas , varies con- ; siderably from that of the urban dwellings. A stair-case with 2 columns leads at once to the peristyle of 14 Doric columns,. , whence the bath is entered to the 1. Opposite are terraces, i which rise above the second and lower portion of the house. I The garden, III 72 It. square, with a basin for a fountain in the 'centre, is surrounded by a colonnade. From the terrace a stair descends to the 1. (another, from the entrance from the street, . to the r.). Beneath this colonnade , on 3 sides , is situated a I vaulted cellar which merits a visit, lighted by small apertures , above and approached by stairs descending at each end. Here i 17 bodies of women and children , who had provided themselves. ! with food and sought protection in this vault against the eruption, ; were found. But the fine ashes penetrated through the openings. 128 Jioute 8. POMPEII. Environn into the interior and too late the illfated party endeavoured to -escape. They were found with their heads wrapped up, half buried by the ashes. The impression made on the ashes by a girl’s breast is now in the museum at Naples. The probable proprietor of the house w'as found near the garden-door (now walled up), with the key in his hand; beside him a slave witli money and valuables. We now re-ascend the Street of Tombs to the Gay the tablinum a stair descends to a peristyle on the level of the Str. della Fortuna, surrounded by a Cryptoporticus. Having reached the archway of the Str. di Mercurio , we now- turn to the 1. into the Str. della Fortuna , a prolongation of the Str. delle Terme and leading to the Gate of Nola. L., No. 55, * House of the Faun (PI. 50), discovered in 1830 in presence of Goethe’s son , and entirely extricated during the two subsequent years. The name is derived from the bronze statue of a dancing Faun found here. The house occupies an entire insula and is the largest in Pompeii, 270 ft. long, 118 ft. broad. From the great number of amphorae discovered here it has been concluded that the proprietor was a wine-merchant, and the retail traffic may have been carried on in the shops on the exterior. On the pavement in front of the house the greeting HAVE. It possesses 2 entrances and 2 atria. The peristyle contains 28 Ionic columns of tuffstone coated with stucco. In the exedra, which opens on the peristyle , was found the celebrated mosaic of the Battle of Ale' ander. In the rear a garden 180 ft. long, 118 ft. broad, enclosed by 56 columns of the Doric order. R., No. 4, Casa della Pareta Nera, so called from the black wall in the exedra, covered with representations of love scenes. R., No. 6, Casa dei Capitelli Figurati (PI- 52), named after the capitals of the entrance-pillars , adorned with heads of Bacchantes and Fauns. From the peristyle a sugar-bakehouse is entered, its destination having been conjectured from the nature of the objects found there; the stove is still in existence. R., No. 7, House of the Grand-dulce of Tuscany (PL 53), small, with mosaic fountain. R:, No. 11, House of Ariadne^ extending as far as the Street of the Augustales and containing towards the latter an additional atrium. The atrium towards the Str. della Fortuna possesses 20 columns, the peristyle 16, the lower part yellow, the capitals painted with variegated colours; in the centre a fountain. Various representations. R., N. 14, House of the i'hase (PI. 55). In the peristyle, which has columns on 2 sides only and a basin in the centre, on the oi)p. side: wild beast lights, whence the name of the house; to the r. landscapes. Excavations* had already been made of Naples. POMPEII. 8. Route. 131 here in ancient times ; a portion of the passage made by the workmen, in a room to the 1., is still to be seen. By this house the Vico Storto diverges to the r., so called from I its curve; to the 1. several unexcavated lanes. If the Str. della _Fortuna be followed for a short distance, the broad Strada Sta- I hiana is reached, leading to the r. to the gate of that name and I formerly extending in the opposite direction as far as the Porta : di Vesuvio. The Str. della Fortuna is now prolonged as the Sir. di Nola, towards the gate of that name. The houses on each side are only excavated in front. At the point of intersection of the streets a fountain, 1. an altar of the Lares, adjacent the pillars of a water-conduit. From this point the Gate of Nola, the most ! ancient in the town, is attained in 5 min. We, however, now enter the Vico Storto, leading to the Street .of the Augustales. The portion of the latter, to the r. , leading to the Forum presents no object of interest. We therefore turn i to the 1., this part of the street traversing the most recently ex- 1 cavated quarter of the town. ‘ At the corner to the r. a soap-manufactory, as has been con- I eluded from the articles found; it contains a large stove. Nu- merous bakers lived in this street. L. , the House of the Bear, j named from the mosaic on the threshold, with the greeting “Have”, i excavated in 1865. I Farther on, the Str. del Lupanare diverges to the r. i R., No. 22, House of the Dolphin, named from the mosaic on I the door, sometimes termed the House of Mars and Venus from i a painting in the atrium. Spacious peristyle with 14 columns. I Nos. 24, 25, a Bake-house; at the back a number of corn-mills i and an oven in which 81 loaves were found. We now reach the Str. di Stabia and follow it to the 1. No. 33, i immediately to the r. , is the House of Marcus Lucretius, once ! richly fitted up although with questionable taste. Behind the I atrium is a small *garden , laid out in terraces , with a fountain and a number of marble figures. The best of the paintings are preserved at Naples. This is almost the only house in Pompeii j the proprietor of which is known by name. Tl^is was furnished i by a letter found with the painted address : M. Lucretio Flam, i Martis decurioni Pompei. 1 Descending the Str. Stabiana towards the gate: r.. No. 57, Casa dei Principi di Russia, with a handsome marble table in the atrium. From the peristyle a stair leads to the house of Siricus : (p. 132). ; Farther on , to the r. , the Thermje at the corner of the Str. j delV Ahbondanza (from which they are entered). This broad street ) ascends from the Str. Stabiana to the Forum. On the other side, I towards the Porta di Sarno, a small portion only is excavated. 9 =^ 132 Route 8. POMPEII. I'nv irons At the corner here is the buttress of an aqueduct. To the 1. farther on is the Casa dei Diadumeni , with a small platform in front of the facade and a handsome atrium with 14 columns. Within it is a lararium on the r., bearing the inscription. ‘^Genio Marci nostri et Laribus duo Diadumeni liberti”. Towards the Forum this handsome street, in which numerous shops were situated, was closed by means of stone pillars, in order to exclude waggons. L., No. 15, House of Cornelius Rufus (PI. 72). The atrium contains 2 handsome pedestals for tables and a bust with the inscription: C. Cornelio Rufo, whence the name of the house. In the Str. delF Abbondanza , to the r., No. 23, is the prin- cipal entrance to the *Stabian Thermae (PI. 69), so called to distinguish them from the Thermae at the back of the Forum. A spacious court is entered , enclosed by pillars on two sides, which was employed for palaestric exercises. On the wall on the 1. stucco ornaments in relief. Here 2 rooms are situated, perhaps destined for undressing. Then a basin for cold baths , 16 paces long, 9 paces broad, 5 ft. deep. Then another vaulted room. In the wing opposite, which has a side entrance from the street, to the 1. 4 baths for single bathers. In the upper part of the wing to the r. the women’s bath. By the door above a vestibule is entered, into which the dres- sing-room opens to the 1. ; from the street two separate entrances. The vaulted hall contains niches on every side for the dress : in the corner a basin enclosed by masonry. Adjacent is the warm bath, a vaulted saloon with double walls. Then the sudatory, the vaulting of which has fallen in ; at one end a marble basin, at the other a fountain for cold w’ater; the walls double. Behind these chambers the stoves were placed. The men's bath, to the r. near the entrance, is similar. From the large dressing-room the 1st door to the 1. leads to the cold, the 2nd to the warm bath; beyond is the sudatory. The two latter greatly dilapidated. L., No. 4, * House of Holconius (PI. 70), with handsome peri- style, rich in paintings, but somewhat faded. In the oecus to the r., Ariadne and^Bacchus; 1., Hermaphrodite; in the room to the r. , Rape of Europa; in the room to the 1., Achilles in Scyros and Judgment of Paris. A few paces farther the Street of the Theatre diverges to the 1., to the r. the Str. del Lu'panare^ which we now follow. R. , No. 16, "^’House of Siricus (PI. 71). On the threshold the inscription : ‘^Salve lucru (m)'’ ; to the same proprietor the large adjacent bake-house, No. 17 , also appertained. To the 1. of the atrium a room with flue paintings , to the 1. Neptune and Apollo aiding in the construction of the walls of Troy, opposite, Hercules intoxicated ; to the r. * Vulcan presenting Thetis with of Naples. POMPEII. 8. Route. 133 the weapons for Achilles. The columns of the peristyle are painted green. To the 1. on the wall the snakes, with the inscription : ^‘Otiosis locus hie non est, discede morator\ To the 1. at the corner of the 2nd lane, the Vicolo del Bal- cone Pensile., is No. 25, the Lupanare ; at the sides 5 sleeping places; opposite, the seat of the hostess. A separate entrance from the street ascended direct to the upper floor. From this point to the 1., through the Yicolo del Balcone Pensile. R., No. 7. with fine frescoes at the hack, to the 1. R., No. 9, * House with, the Balcony, or Casa del Balcone Pensile (PI. 84). The atrium to the r. contains a fountain with marble figures. In this house the attempt has been successfully made, although an arduous and costly undertaking, to preserve 3 rooms of the upper floor, the charred woodwork having been carefully replaced by new beams. The projecting wooden structure is similar to that frequently seen in old continental towns , and appears to have been common in Pompeii. The Vicolo del Balcone Pensile terminates in the Vicolo di Eumachia , which extends behind the buildings of the Forum. Entering this street we proceed to the 1. , tow’ards the Str. delT Abbondanza. L., in the Yicolo, No. 9, House of the new Chase, with well preserved frescoes ; in the tablinum , to the r. , Bacchus finding the sleeping Ariadne; in the peristyle, to the 1., animal pieces. At the corner of the Str. dell’ Abbondanza a fountain with head and cornucopia of Abundantia, whence the name of the street. The wall of the Chalcidicum was employed for public ad- vertisements which w^ere here painted (album), of which, however, little remains. On the opp. side, No. 8, House of the wild hoar hunt, deriving its appellation from the mosaic in the passage : Boar attacked by 2 dogs. The peristyle contains 16 Ionic columns. The border of the large mosaic in the atrium represents an ancient town-wall. On the wall of No. 10 , in the direction of the unexcavated Yicolo, are represented the 12 gods with their attributes, almost effaced. We now^ continue to descend and enter the Street of the Theatre to the r., leading to the Forum Triangular e. In front of the latter a portions with 6 Ionic columns. The street to the 1., which leads to the Str. Stabiana , is the Street of Isis , which should be now visited before the theatres by those who purpose omitting the amphitheatre. This last quarter is the most ancient in the town and has preserved many of its characteristics. 134 lioiite S. POMPEII. Environs The Forum Triangulare fPl. 75) is surrounded on 3 sides by a portions of 100 columns of the Doric order, destined principally for the frequenters of the theatre. On the N. side a pedestal for a statue, with inscription referring to it. The side towards the sea was open. Here rose, on a basement approached by 5 steps, a * Temple in the ancient Greek style (without the slight- est foundation alleged to have been dedicated to Hercules), IO 41 / 2 H. in length, 67^2 Oi breadth. It was surrounded by columns, had 8 columns in front and the shrine in the centre ; all in the ancient Doric order. At the psesent day a few capitals and the fragment of a column are the sole remnants of this once imposing structure. It was doubtless overthrown by the earthquake of 63, and probably no idea of restoring it in massive and simple dig- nity ever occurred to the inhabitants, as it would have presented too marked a contrast with the stuccoed buildings of the imperial period. In front of the temple , an enclosed space probably employed for the slaughter of the victims. To the 1. 3 altars. In the rear a * Bidental , a relic perfectly unique of its kind. It consists of the large embouchure of a fountain (puteal), serving to enclose a spot struck by lightning, which was deemed sacred and called for atonement. Round it was erected a small, circular temple with 8 Doric columns , lO^/s ft. in diameter. On the other side of the temple a semicircular seat with a sun-dial, now much disintegrated. Below the Theatre (a stair descends from the Forum Trian- gulare) lies a Barrack, either for gladiators or soldiers. The court is surrounded by a portions of 74 columns, length 250 ft., breadth 115 ft. Around it a number of detached cells. The edifice had a second floor, as the imitation on the S. side illustrates, which contained apartments for the custodians and a small chapel. In a chamber employed as a prison 3 skeletons and iron stocks for the feet were found; 63 bodies in all were discovered in this building. Adjoining the Forum Triangulare is the * Great Theatre (PI. 77), the enclosing walls of which projected from the rubbish even before the discovery. It is situated on rising ground, and was restored after the earthquake of 63 by the architect M. Ar- torius, at the expense of M. Holconius Rufus and M. Holconius Oeler. The restoration, however, was far from complete at the time of the final catastrophe. The space for the spectators con- sists of 3 ranks (ima, media and summa cavea); the first con- tains 5 tiers for the chairs of the persons of rank, the second 20, and the tliird 4 only. Corridors and stairs led to the different parts of the bailding. The number of spectators who could be accommodated is estimated at 5000. Behind the orchestra the of Naples. POMPEII. 8. Route. 135 long and narrow stage , in front of which is an opening in the ground for the rising and falling of the curtain. The posterior |wall of the stage , once adorned with statues , is provided with 3 doors, according to the rules of the ancient drama; behind -them the actors’ room. On the summit of the enclosing wall are liseen the stone rings for the poles which supported the awning employed as a protection against the sun. Behind the theatre a isquare reservoir, the water of which was employed in hot weather |!for refreshing the spectators by means of a slight sprinkling. The contiguous * Small Theatre (PL 78) is better preserved ithan the above. An inscription records that it was roofed in ((theatrum tectum, probably a wooden roof). Number of specta- i tors 1500. The marble pavement of the orchestra was, according • to an inscription, presented by M. Olconius, a duumvir. From the Small Theatre the visitor emerges on the Str. Sta- 'biana, re-ascending which he next reaches, to the 1., at the corner of the Street of Isis, the * Temple of ^sculapius (PI. 79), the , smallest in Pompeii, 81 ft. long, 231/2 ft. broad. The anterior court ! contains a peculiar altar of tuffstone, recalling the sarcophagus i;of Scipio in the Vatican. The cella is approached by 9 steps. Whether the temple was really dedicated to JEsculapius is not I clearly ascertained. i We now enter the Street of Isis to the 1. i Here, to the 1., stands the ^Temple of Isis (PI. 73), which, i as the copy of the inscription over the entrance informs us , was i xestored after the earthquake of 63 by N. Popidius Oelsinus, a ' boy 6 years of age, at his own expense, who was in recognition i'of this service received into the rank of the decuriones. Length :101ft., width 621/4 ft. The court is surrounded by a portions; i between the columns are several altars , also an ancient aperture, i destined for the reception of the remnants of sacrifices, now ^employed as an air-shaft of the Sarno tunnel. To the 1. a small ! shrine, the so called Purgatorium , in which ablutions were per- formed ; a stair-case here descended to a well ; the walls are taste- fully adorned with reliefs in stucco. Within the temple itself an limage of Isis, now in the museum, was found. The chambers ^•adjoining the wall on the 1. served as a dwelling for the priests; (several bodies were here found ; on the fire-place remnants of food, r By the next door in the Street of Isis, to the 1., a court is ^entered, surrounded by columns, with a curious balustrade in the ■centre, the object of which is involved in mystery. According to •some it was a court of justice. We now return to the Stabian Street, cross it and proceed ' to the last important relic of ancient Pompeii, the * Amphitheatre j(PL 81), situated at the S. W. extremity of the town and de- 'tached from the other ruins. From the Stabian Street it is attained 13G Route S. POMPEII. Ennirons in about 8 min., the route traversing the still unexcavated quar- ters of the town , the surface above which is still employed a.s arable land. The guides are generally averse to undertaking this- additional walk, but those whose time and strength permit should not allow themselves to be dissuaded. The external aspect of the amphitheatre is somewhat insignificant , as , in order to facilitate the construction, a considerable portion of it, as high as the 2 nd story, was formed by excavating the earth. An uncovered gallery runs round the exterior, to which stair-cases ascend for the us& of the spectators in the upper places. The principal entrance- descends considerably. Entire length 146, width 115 yds. Number of spectators accommodated, 20,000. Three different series of seats are distinguished, the first with 5, the second with 12, and the- third with 18 tiers; above these was also a gallery. The seats- are cut out in such a manner that the feet of the spectators in an upper tier did not inconvenience those below. It was constructed shortly before the birth of Christ, and in 79 had not completely recovered from the effects of the earthquake of 63. Excavations of the preceding century led to the discovery of other important buildings near the amphitheatre, but which, according to the irregular manner of prosecuting the work at that period, w^ere again covered. From the Amphitheatre the traveller may return to modern Pompeii either by the high road or by traversing the mounds of ashes and skirting a portion of the town -wall. The station is reached in t /4 hr. Those who make the excursion by carriage should order their conveyance to wait for them at the Amphitheatre. 9. Castellamare, Sorrento and Capri. Comp. Map., p. 86. Railway from Naples to Castellamare by Portici.^ Torre del Greco and Torre Annunziata (comp. p. 113) in 59 min.; fares 31. 5,21., or 95c.; in summer 9 trains daily, in winter fewer. — Small coasting Steamboats also start at 11. 30 a. m. and 4 p. m. for Castellamare, the latter then proceeding to Sorrento and returning to Naples the following morning; to Castellamare 21. or 1 1., to Sorrento 31. or 1 1. 50 c. Office: Molo Piccolo- 36. These vessels, however, cease to ply in the dull season. Carriage from Castellamare to Sorrento, according to tariff, 51., with one horse 31. and gratuity. Travellers alone may often succeed in obtaining a single seat for 1 — li |2 1., or a return-carriage. Steamboat from Castellamare to Sorrento 1 1. or 50 c. Those w'hose time is limited may spend a short time only at Castellamare, wdiich may be employed in visiting the quay, in order to arrive at Sorrento early enough to leave time for an excursion to- the Deserto or other interesting point in the environs. The night should be spent at Sorrento and Capri visited the following day, on the evening of which Naples may be regained. This route may also be combined with the ‘following by jiroceeding either at once by boat from Capri to Amalfi (5 — G hrs., 20 1.), or by a bye-road over the mountain-ridge to (2^-2 hrs.) Scaricatojo (]». 155) or still further to Positano (p. 155). A carriage-road of Naples. CASTELLAMAKE. 9. Route. 137 rom Sorrento to Positano is in process of construction. From Scaricatojo- r Positano to Amalfi by boat (not always to be procured) in 2 hrs. (7—8 1.)* 'he footpath from Positano to Amalfi fS— 6 hrs.) cannot be recommended n the present state of the country. — This route may best be combined lith the following if La Cava or Salerno be taken as starting-point (comp. . 145). Railway-journey to Torre dell’ Annunziata , see p. 113. Here he Castellamare line diverges trom that to Salerno. Skirting the loast, it crosses the Sarno (to the r., in the vicinity, the rocky i jslet of Roviglkmo , with an ancient fort) and in 14 min. reaches ■he station at the E. end of the town. ^ Castellamare ("Pi 6 tel Royal, near the station^ on the quay An- ica Stabia of the 2nd cl., adjacent to the Cafe dell’ Eufopa; Trat- i oria Toscana, also on the quay; i |2 M. above the town, on the road ! 0 Quisisana, in a magnificent situation. Pension et HotelAnglaise, ; brmerly Gran Bretagna, commanding a charming prospect of the bay, tension 12 1., somewhat less for a prolonged stay. Boat to Capri in about ) hrs., 30 1.), with a population of 15,000, stands on a buttress of Monte Sanf Angelo (the jMons Gaurus of the ancients) , on the lay of Naples , on the ruins of the ancient Stahiae , which was ; lestroyed at the same time as Pompeii. It was here that the elder Pliny perished, A.D. 79, whilst observing the eruption (Plin. i Epist. YI. 16). Excavations of the ruins of Stabise, which lie to ■ he 1. by the entrance to the town , towards the heights , have j lot been undertaken since 1745. i The Gastello, whence the town derives its name, was erected l iy the Emp. Frederick II. in the 13th cent, and was streng- ' :heiied by Charles I. of Anjou by additional towers and walls. I The town , a favourite summer resort of the Neapolitans, I consists of a long main street skirting the sea , from which the : narrower streets extend upwards towards the hill. With the ex- ; :eption of the beauty of its situation and the animated scene : presented by the traffic of the quay, the town contains nothing to arrest the traveller. At the harbour is also a government lock-yard. L; Beautiful walks intersect the chestnut plantations on the hill pising behind the town (well-kept donkeys, 4 — 5 1. per diem). Here stands the Casino Reale, on the site of a house (Casa Sana} i erected by Charles II. of Anjou, occupied by king Ladislaus and his sister Johanna II. during the prevalence of the plague at ■Naples. Ferdinand I. of Bourbon restored the edifice and styled , it Quisisana (^^here one becomes healthy”). Behind the chateau paths ascend through the park (bosco), affording fine views of the i bay. Permission to visit the gardens and the interior (uninterest- i ing) must be obtained from the Intendant at the Pal. Reale at i Naples (p. 73) (fee 11.; gardener 25 c. ; access to the park gratis; donkey 11.; this excursion requires 1 — 2 hrs. ). Ascending I j farther to the 1., the traveller may visit Monte Coppola (2 hrs. 138 lioute 0. VICO equp:n.se. Environs at least necessary; donkey 2 1.). To descend from the Quisisana tlie route by the monastery of Puzzano ^ founded by Gonsalvo da Cordova, may be taken ( 1/2 hr. more), commanding fine views. Other short excursi ns to Gragnano ( 1/2 hr.) and Lettere hr. farther), beautifully situated on the slope of the mountains which once bore the name of Montes Lactdrii, with ruined castle and magnificent prospect. Finally to the summit of the * Monte SanV Angelo^ the ancient Gaurus (ascent 4 hrs. ; guide and donkey 5 1.), 4690 ft. above the sea-level, the highest point near the bay, commanding a noble prospect extending from Monte Circello far into Calabria and to the Abruzzi. Monte Sant’ Angelo is clothed to the summit with wood, chiefly chestnut-trees. Fragments of pumice-stone (rapilli) from eruptions of Vesuvius are occasionally observed. The ascent (not without guide) requires 4 hrs. (donkey 3 hrs.). It should be expressly stipulated that the guide conduct the traveller to the highest peak surmounted by the chapel. If not, the guide will ascend •another peak, where extensive snow-depots are situated, the view from which is partially intercepted by the higher summit. From the chapel an uninterrupted panorama is enjoyed. The path leads past the chateau of Quisisana, through the park and by M. Coppola to the mountain village of Piemonte (C|2 hr.), whence the ascent of the M. S. Angelo commences. The traveller should not fail to start early, so as to return to Castellamare before dusk. The excursion occupies 7-8 hrs., but is occasionally regarded •as unsafe (comp. p. 156). From Castellamare to Amalfi by the lesser Monte Sant’ Angelo see p. 156. The route from Castellamare to Sorrento ( 71/2 M. ; by x:arriage in II /2 hr.), by land as well as by water, is one of the most beautiful excursions in this delightful district (two -horse carr. 5, one-horse 3 1. ; see p. 136). The traveller proceeds be- low the monastery of Pozzano to the Capo Orlando. The three rocks on the coast are termed / tre fratelli. The small villages of Vico and Equa^ together called Vico Equense (the Vicus ^quensis of the Ancients) , are next passed. Vico was erected by Charles II. on the ruins of the ancient village and was fre- quently visited by him. The Cathedral contains the tomb of the celebrated jurist Gaetano Filangieri (d. 1788). Beyond Vico a deep cutting, traversed by avast bridge; then to r. by La Marina di Seiano, a village with handsome campanile, between vineyards and olive plantations , to the summit of the Punta di Scutolo^ whence the road descends to Meta. Here begins the celebrated Piano di Sorrento, a plain sheltered by the surrounding mountains, and intersected by numerous ravines , remarkable for its salubrity i and luxuriant vegetation. Orange groves, olive plantations, mul- ! berry-trees, pomegranates, figs and aloes are beautifully intermin- gled , and abundant. This was a favourite retreat of the noble and wealthy even in ancient times. Augustus, M. Agrippa, An- ton iji us Pius and others frequently resided here, and at the present of Naples. SORRENTO. 9. Route. 139 ,y visitors of all nationalities are encountered. The space is li- fted, the villages neither extensive nor imposing, but an air of iiace and enjoyment everywhere prevails. i' Meta (* Trattoria delta Villa di Sorrento^ see below) is a town 4 )ssessing two small harbours. The church of the Madonna del luro, in the street, occupies the site of a temple of Minerva, he Ponte Maggiore leads across the profound ravine of Meta. i‘ie next village is Carotto ; then Pozzo Piano surrounded by ;,!;autiful orange gardens; ftnally Siint’ Aniello (*Albergo della ocumella, on the quay, with beautiful view, pension 6 l.j. The ,ad leads to the 1. passing the Villa Guarracino, now Hotel ellevue, and soon reaches ' Sorrento. *La Sirena and *Albergo del Tasso, both situated 1.1 rocky eminences, charges as in the 1st cl. hotels ^at Naples*, A 1 her go dspoli without the town (pension 8 — 101.), ’'Hotel Villa Nardi, itered by a lemon garden, and ’"Albergo A Severina ('pension 7 1.), 1 1 three on a rocky height by the sea. These hotels have private stairs [ iscending to the sea and small bathing-establishments (also warm baths), id command magnificent views of' the bay. Charges in the three last: 1. 2 i| 2, S. 3, B. l‘| 2 , A. and L. 11.; but previous enquiry should be made. IbergodiRoma, good pension 6—7 1. *, Corona di Ferro, outside e town. Villas and furnished apartments may also be procured for a . ngthened stay ; also at Meta ; ’'Trattoria della Villa d i Sorrento, the main street. Sea-b aths on the Piccola Marina, M. distant. Steamboat from Naples by Sorrento- to Capri, see p. 138. Boats, irriages and donkeys may be hired at the hotels at what are called ,ced charges, but which may generally be reduced by arrangement. Those ;quainted with the language and customs of the country will prefer to )ply to boatmen, coachmen etc. in person; fees extra. The charges de- I anded at the hotels for a boat to Capri are: with 2 rowers 8, 3— 4_r. 12, |_-8 r. 16 1. ; to Castellamare about the same. Donkey to Scaricatqjo I . 155) 2 1. and gratuity. Carriage to Castellamare, p. 136, : Sorrento^ the ancient Surrentum a small episcopal town with 1.000 inhab. , stands on a rock rising precipitously from the sea jid is enclosed on the other sides by deep ravines. The walls j id towers have long since fallen to decay; of the Roman Sur- mtum nothing remains except a few fragments and foundations, i) which such fictitious and high-sounding epithets as “Temple of keptune’, “Amphitheatre”, “Villa of Pollius Felix” etc. are applied. I he entrance to the cathedral (reached from the market-place in i min. , by following the main-street and turning to the 1. by a : aapel) is adorned with ancient bas-reliefs and inscriptiofis. The j ouse is still pointed out where Tasso was born in 1544, and E l hither, after a glorious but chequered career, he returned in i592, disguised as a shepherd, and was received by his attached ster Cornelia. It is now converted into the Albergo del Tasso ; tid contains but few reminiscences of the poet. A beautitul walk 'drts the ravine of Sorrento. Its sombre wildness has given rise |j ) the belief that it is haunted by evil spirits (monacelli). 140 lioute 9. SOKKENTO. Environs | Sorrento is admirably adapted for a summer residence, both on * account of its cool N. aspect and its delightful environs. Among ■ the walks may be mentioned that to Capo di Sorrento^ II /2 \ at the W. end of the bay , opposite the Punta di Scutolo to the N. E.; among the cliffs remains of Poman masonry, baths and a temple of Hercules may be observed. An interesting excursion of about 3 hrs. in all fdonkey II/ 2 — 1 2 1.) , may be made to the * Deserio , a secularized monastery on one of the peaks above Sorrento. The visitor should not omit to ascend to the roof of the building ffee 25 c.), which commands a charming prospect of both bays, the island of Capri, in front of w^hich the hill of S. Costanza with a small chapel; to the 1. of the latter the small and solitary monastery of S. Maria delta Neve. From the Deserto the traveller returns by the neighbouring village of S. Agata (the church contains a high-altar of beauti- fully inlaid marble), whence the descent to Sorrento is precipitous and a part of the way must be traversed on foot. ] More tow^ards the E. rise the Conti delle Fontanelle (1 hr. ; donkey II /2 1.), a chain of hills commanding a beautiful view of the bays of Naples and Salerno. Farther distant is the Arco Na- tiirale., a natural opening in the rock, partially destroyed in 1851. Another walk may be taken to the secularized monastery of Camaldoli, above Meta (1 hr.). In 11/2 lir. the village of S. Maria a Castello may be attained, j where from a projecting rock a view is obtained of PosPcmo, 2000 I ft. below , to which a winding path , consisting partly of steps, | descends. On Aug. 15th, the occasion of a great festival at Po- j sitano (comp. p. 155), numbers of persons from Sorrento ascend I to S. Maria for the sake of seeing the magic effect of the illu- mination below. I Other excursions may be made to the S. portion of the penin- sula. Thus in 2 hrs. to the Marina di Nerano, whence the ruins of Crapolla may be visited by boat, 2 M. to the E. of Nerano. ! On this route a beautiful view is obtained of the three Islands of \ the Sirens, also termed / Galli, fortified in the middle ages, now j abandoned. At the landing-place remnants of a w^all are observed, 1 with a fountain in the centre, and traces of an' aqueduct; higher up, on the hill, the ruins of the monastery and early Romanesque basilica of S. Pietro, the 8 marble and granite columns of which are probably derived from some ancient temple. The interior of the church exhibits traces of frescoes. The active pedestrian may return hence to Sorrento by ascending to S. Agata. From Sorrento a road, traversing olive groves and profound ravines and passing the Capo di Sorrento and the Capo di Massa (r.), leads to (3^2 M.) Massa [Luhrense), a small town situated on a rock above the bay. About half-way thither the rocky islet MASSA. .9. Route. 14^1 ■ of Naples. of La Vervece becomes visible , a conspicuous object from all quarters. Massa contains the remains of a Roman aqueduct and other antiquities. The church of S. Francesco is said to occupy the site of a temple of Juno. The festival celebrated here on Aug. 15th affords an opportunity of observing the costumes of iThe country. In 1808 Massa was the head-quarters of Murat du- I ring the expedition of General Lamarque against Capri. From Massa the extremity of the peninsula , the Punta della }Campanella (1500 ft.), the Cape of Minerva of the ancients, na- : med after a temple said to have been erected by Ulysses on this ispot in honour of the goddess, may be reached in 1 hr. The i modern appellation is in allusion to the bell of the watch-towers I erected along the coast by Charles V. as a protection against pi- I rates. From this point, overgrown with olives and myrtles, a j Imagnilicent and extensive view of the sea, the coast and the is- idand of Capri (3 M. distant) is enjoyed. A lighthouse has recently I been erected here. Travellers desirous of proceeding from Sorrento or Meta by Carotto in the Piano di Sorrento (wine and tolerable beds at Fran, de Majo’s inn at 8. Liherio, near Carotto) and S. Liguoro to (3 hrs. ; donkey 2 1. and fee) Scaricatojo^ and thence by boat to ( 2^2 hrs. ^ 2 rowers 7—8, 4 r. 101.) Amalfi (comp. p. 136), should order a boat from the latter place, as none are to be had at Scaricatojo (this excursion therefore more convenient in the reverse direction). Beautiful view the whole way, especially in going from Scaricatojo. The last 1/2 hr. is occupied in descending by steps, for which those ascending from Scaricatojo should allow ^{4 hr. C a p .r i. : This island may be most conveniently visited from Sorrento. The crossing occupies 2 hrs. and the entire excursion may be accomplished in one day. Those who are desirous of prolonging their voyage to Amalti should spend a night on the island. A four-oared boat for the excursion (“tutto compreso”) 101. and a fee of 11. to the boatmen^ two-oared boat ;'6-- 81. At the hotels higher charges are demanded. Travellers acquainted with the language should apply to the boatmen themselves (comp. p. 139). ,-A four-oared boat to Capri and Amalfi, spending the night at the island, [ costs 30—40 1. It need hardly be observed that fine and calm weather is ; indispensable. — From Naples a steamboat starts on Sundays and holidays ! in summer, sometimes on other days, at 8 a. m. for Sorrento and Capri, i leaving the island again at 3. 30 p. m. (excursion 10 1., embarkation at Naples 25 c., to or from the steamer at Capri 10 c., landing at Naples 10 c.). - This mode of visiting Capri however is not recommended. The vessels do I not start until a sufficient number of passengers has been secured (about t 20), and the whole excursion is extremely hurried, allowing barely sufficient ^ time for the visit to the Blue Grotto. From travellers, who desire to avail themselves of the steamboat from Capri to Sorrento only, the whole fare to Naples is generally extorted. In ! order to avoid this imposition the traveller should apply for a ticket to ! Sorrento only before the departure of the steamer. If this is refused, a j threat to engage a small boat generally has the desired effect. 142 Route 9. CAPUT. Envirom Besides these modes of reaching Capri, the traveller may avail himselt of the market-boat which leaves Naples on the week-days at 1 p. rn. (2 1. each pers.), performing the voyage in 3-4 hrs. If the passage be made from Sorrento, the Capo di Sorrento (ijg hr.) is first pa.ssed ^ 5 min. later the Villa 3Iajo, where the foundations of a temple of Ceres are said to have 1 een discovered; then (10 min.) the promontory of Blassa on which stands a tower erected by the Saracens; next (20 min.*> JMassa, and in 2 hrs. more Capri is reached. The Punta della Campanclla remains in sight during the whole passage. As soon as the boat reaches the Marina di Capri women place a board to facilitate the passengers landing. If more than the smallest coin of the realm is bestowed it will act as an incentive to the keen-eyed beggars who infest the spot. Mendicancy prevails here to a greater extent than in other parts ot Italy; nor is it begging pure and simple; dancing and singing are the atten- dant tortures, whilst the cry resounds, “un bajocc, Signorial Eccellenza un bajocc!” For the excursion to the ’"•‘Blue Grotto (p. 144) li| 2 — 2 hrs. must be allowed. A diminutive, sunburnt boatman with a Phrygian cap, the pro- prietor of the skiffs built expressly for visiting the grotto (for 1 or 2 pers. 2 1., each additional pers. 1 1.), offers his services when the wind is favour- able (if from the E. or K. access is impossible). He usually employs a second rower, for whom he demands “la mancia”, which is entirely gratuitous. Hotels in Capri: Albergo d’Inghilterra (formerly di Londrd). not to be recommended, on an eminence by the sea a short distance to the W. of the landing place. In the village of Capri , ij 4 hr. walk from the landing place (path first in a straight direction for a few paces, then to the 1., ascending partly by steps between walls, fatiguing in hot weather): *Albergo (^uisisana. English landlady, pension 7 1., well spoken of; Albergo del Tiberio, R. 2, A. and L. H |2 1.; a few paces farther, Antic o Albergo di Michele Pagano, of little pretension, pension 6 1., a resort of artists who occasionally spend several months in the island; the garden contains a magnificent palm. Donkeys 3 1. a day and fee; guide (cicerone) unnecessary, except w^here time is very limited. Boats li| 2 — 2 1. per hour; a previous arran- gement should be made. Capri) the Capreae (island of goats) of the ancients, is a small, mountainous island of oblong form. The highest point to the W. is the Monte SoUiro ^ 1800 ft. above the sea-level; towards the E. huge cliffs, 860 ft. in height, rise abruptly from the sea. At two places only boats can safely land. The village of Capri, 1/4 hr. from the landing-place, lies on the slope of the E. mountains; ' Anacapri is in a much more elevated situation on the table-land to the W. The inhabitants, about 5000 in number, who support themselves principally by agriculture and fishing, still retain some of their ancient peculiarities of habits and costume. They are said to be the direct descendants of Greeks from Acarnania. The island first came into notice under Augustus , who manifested a great partiality for it and here founded palaces , baths and aque- ducts. Tiberius erected 12 villas, in honour of the 12 gods, in the principal parts of the islarid, the largest of which was the Villa Jovis (Tacit. Ann. TV. 67), after he had A.D. 27 surren- dered the reins of his government to Seianus and retired hither. of Naples. CAPRI. 9. Route. 143* !tfHe remained here almost uninterruptedly till his death in 37, even after the fall of Sejanus in 31. Revolting accounts are given of the cruelty and profligacy of the emperor, even towards the- ^‘j^lose of his career. The tranquillity and inaccessibility of the is- ^vland, as well as the geniality of the climate, were the attractions. ,vhich induced him to spend so many years in it. Of the struc- tures of Tiberius but few traces are left. During the wars of Napoleon I. Capri was captured by the- JEnglish under Sir Sidney Smith in 1803 , fortified and conver- ',i;ed into a miniature Gibraltar. Sir Hudson Lowe was subse- quently the commandant. In October, 1808, however, the island '.vas recaptured by Murat by a brilliant coup-de-main. On the E. promontory, Lo Capo or S. Maria del Soccorso, once: ' ;tood, it is believed, the Villa Jovis , in which Tiberius lay con- ;;ealed for 9 months after the fall of Sejanus. Here are the ruins. , >f the * Villa di Tiberio., pronounced Timberio by the natives, and he remains of a lighthouse. The path (1 hr. from the landing- )lace) cannot be mistaken. About 100 paces from the summit is i , “Restaurant” to the r. , where by purchasing a draught of to- . arable wine admission is obtained to II Salto, a rock rising abruptly 00 ft. above the sea, whence the tyrant is said to have precipi- 1 ated his victims. From a projecting platform, protected by a. i ailing, the sea is seen immediately' at the feet of the spectator. kO the r. is the Faro, whence a magnificent view of the barren [ Tomontory of Sorrento opposite and the two bays ; Psestum is ! aid to be also visible (?). ! After a slight ascent the * Villa di Tiberio is attained , the: ains of which are now employed as a stable for cows. On the. ath , to the 1. , is a species of corridor adorned with mosaic, hence steps ascend. On the highest point in the small chapel 4 S. Maria del Soccorso with the cell of a hermit, who in return )r a trifling donation allows the visitor to inscribe his testimo- ium prsesentiae. This point also commands a noble prospect of le island and the blue sea. In returning the traveller should select the path which diver- i3S to the 1. after 10 min., and in 15 min. leads through tha nail so-called Val di Mitromania to the Punta di Mitromania,. 1 >metimes termed Matrimonio by the islanders. Here a magni- j.cent natural opening in the rock, the Arco Naturale, rises from : le sea; a fine view of the imposing and rugged cliffs is also- dained. A visit to the Grotta di Mitromania beneath (guide, icessary) does not repay the trouble. — The ruins on the TuorO‘ rande are supposed to belong to the second villa of Tiberius, fie conspicuous and most picturesquely formed rocky points to- irds the S.E. are the Faraylioni. On the coast are numerous. 144 Route 9. CAPPvT. ruins under water; among others, to the 8. of Capri hy the Ca- marelle, a long series of arches, perhaps pertaining to an ancient road. — To the 8. of the village the Certosa , founded in 1371, now in ruins. Anacaprl is reached by a steep path , ascending by means of 535 steps. On the summit stands the ruin of a medieval castle. il Castello di Barharossa^ so called from its having been destroyed by the pirate of that name in the 16th cent. Roman ruins are also in the vicinity, especially at the village of Dameciita ; remnants of mosaics, coloured plastering, marble pavement and columns. The *Grotta Azzurra (Pdue Grotto) is situated about midway! between the landing-place of Capri and the Punta Gradelle on the N. W. side of the island (boat thither, see p. 142). The boat skirts the base of the precipitous rocky shore , where numerous! sea stars (stella marina) are observed. In 15 min. the ruins of the Baths of Tiberius are reached , where a fragment of an ancient wall and part of a column in the water are seen. In 30 min. more the entrance of the grotto, scarcely 3 ft. in height is attai- ned. Visitors must stoop or lie down in the boat on entering (not accessible when a breeze blows from the N. or E.). In the I interior the height of the roof increases to 40 ft. above the water, which is 8 fathoms deep. Length of the grotto 165 ft., extreme width 100 ft. The effect of the blue refraction of the light on €very object is indescribable and at first completely dazzles the eye. Objects in the water assume a beautiful silvery appearance. The] diminutive boatman , who during the voyage does not fail to de- scribe the astonishing effect which his body in the water and hisi sunburnt face above it will produce in the grotto . now offers to* bathe in order to verify his statement. For this exhibition he isi sufficiently rewarded with 1/2 although he generally makes thej ■exhorbitant demand of 2 — 3 1. ; the experiment may be more agreeably made by the traveller immersing his own arm. The most favorable time is between 10 and 1 o’clock. Near the middle! of the grotto is a kind of landing place, leading to a passage, with broken steps, but closed at the upper extremity, probably a| former approach from the land to the grotto, which was once con- nected with the villa of Tiberius at Damecuta. The grotto was known to the ancients, but fell into oblivion in the middle ages. 8ince 1822, when it was discovered by fishermen, it has been aj favourite resort of travellers. — Another, far inferior to the above, the so-called Green Grotto^ on the S. side of the island, was dis- covered in 1848. 10. Route. 145 10. From Naples to Salerno, Paestum and Amalfi. Comiy. Map., p. 86. The Bay of Salerno cannot indeed compete with the Bay of Nanles • towards the S. its shores are flat and monotonous ^ but the N! side where the Sorrentine peninsula rise abruptly some thousands replete with beauty and grandeur. Here are si- tuated the towns of Salerno (p. 147) and Amalfi (p. 153), conspicuous in the_ pages of mediaeval h^tory, and still containing a few monuments of greatness. Farther S., in a barren, desolate situation, the temple of P^stum (p. 149), usually the extreme point of the Italian pen- msula visited by northern travellers. All these recal the golden period of in Italy^^^^^^^^ ^ n^ore marked degree than any other localities This route may best be combined with the preceding (p. 136). 1st dav • La Cava aM Salerno. 2nd day : Psestum. 3rd day : Amalfi. 4th day : to The passage across the mountains orikeys 1- Pj.,]. per hour; to (’astellamare by the Little St. Angelo of Naples. AMALFI. 10. Route. 153 ) — 61. — Guides unnecessary except where time is very limited; the best .re the two Melloni, father and son ; for a visit to the cathedral, mill- valley md Capuchin monastery li| 2 — 2, whole day 5 1. Amalfi, a small town situated at the entrance of a deep ravine -nd surrounded by imposing mountains and rocks of the most ucturesque forms, was as a sea -port in the early part of the aiddle ages a rival of Pisa and Genoa. It is mentioned for the first time in the 6th cent., when it enjoyed the protection of the Eastern emperors ; it subsequently became an independent Itate, under the presidency of a “doge”. The town was continually at ■ariance with the neighbouring princes of Salerno and even defied the Nor- nan sovereigns of Naples, till king Roger reduced the place in 1131. United yitli the royal forces, Amalfi carried on a war with the Pisans ; in the ;Ourse of the struggle the celebrated MS. of the Pandects of Justinian, now 'ne of the principal treasures of the Laurentian library at Florence, fell nto the hands of the Pisans. Since that period Amalfi was subject to the Neapolitan kings of the houses of Normandy, Anjou and Arragon. During he 13Ui cent, the sea gradually undermined the lower part of the town, nd still more disastrous consequences were occasioned by an inundation n 1343. Amalfi, which had once contained 50,000 inhab., now steadily declined, and at the present day has a population of 7000 only, who are rincipally engaged in the manufacture of paper, soap and maccaroni. The own claims to be the birthplace of a certain Flavio Gioja., who is alleged 0 have invented the compass here in 1302, but the story is very oubtful. From the Marina a short street leads past the Albergo dei ^appuccini to the small Piazza , on the r. side of which the cathe- ral stands. It may also be reached by the steps to the r. of the ountain on the Marina, which lead to the entrance adjoining the rypt (see below). The * Cattedrale S. Andrea , approached from the Piazza by a road flight of stone steps (to the 1. the police-office), is still, iOtwithstanding modern alterations, a remarkably interesting struc- ure of the 11th cent, in the Norman style. A spacious vestibule fi front, resting on 7 antique columns from Psestum , having be- ome insecure, was removed in 1865. The bronze doors, said to have been executed by Byzantine masters, ear two inscriptions in silver letters. One of these is' to this effect: “Hoc pus fieri jussit pro redemptione animse sme Pantaleo filius Mauri de Pan- ileone de Mauro de Slaurone Comite”. The interior, which consists of ave and three aisles, is adorned with marble columns and mosaics. By le entrance, to the 1., an ancient vase of porphyry, formerly employed as font. ^ Near this (L), in the front passage from the 2nd to the 3rd aisle, vo ancient sarcophagi with unfortunately damaged sculpture, representing, is said, the Rape of Proserpine and Nuptials of Peleus and Thetis. A lird bears the inscription : “Hie intus homo verus certus optumus recumbo uintus Fabritius Rufus nobilis decurio”. The choir contains ancient )lumns decorated with mosaic from Paestum. From the r. aisle a stair ascends to the Crypt (verger 20 c.), where, it is said, the body of the postle St. Andrew has reposed since the 13th cent, when it was brought ither from Constantinople. The relics, from which an oily matter (manna 1 S. Andrea) of miraculous power is said to exude, attract numerous pious I sits. The colossal statue of the saint by Michael Angelo Maccarino was 1 ’esented by Philip III. of Spain. The altar was executed from a design f Domenico Fontana. The cloisters contain an ancient Christian relief of 154 i^oute 10. AMALFI. Environs the 12 Apostles and a Madonna of more recent date. The campanile, with its 4 stories, was erected in 1276. The * Capuchin Monastery, founded in 1212 by Cardinal Pietro Oapuano for monks of the Cistercian order, is situated ^4 walk from the town, to the W. , built into a hollow of the rock, 400 ft. above the sea. From 1583 to 1815 it belonged to the Capuchins, who have again tenanted it since 1850. It contains fine cloisters, a charming veranda and magnificent points of view. A spacious grotto to the 1., in front of the monastery, serves as a Calvary, or series of devotional stations. Here the attendant Capuchin (t /2 — 1 1.) usually offers the visitor a draught of wine and takes his leave. The route to the monastery leads from the market-place by a dark lane to the r. opposite the cathedral; ascends a flight of steps partially covered 5 passing the insignifi-i €ant looking maccaroni - manufactory , then continues for a short -distance on the same level and finally ascends by steps to the ^ate (if shut, visitors knock). 1 A cool and pleasant *walk may be taken in the narrow mill- Talley (Valle de^ Molini), in length, containing 16 paper- mills deriving their motive power from the brook, situated in the rear of Amalfi (from the Piazza in a straight direction W. to a gate-way, beyond which the valley is entered. The steps, which ascend to the r. by the gate , lead to Scala, 2 hrs. walk, see p. 155; guide necessary). On the r. rise lofty cliffs, the summit of which is crowned by the ruins of the Castello Pontone. The single tower dates from the time of queen Johanna. — Five villages appertain to Amalfi ; Pogelora , Pastina , Lene , Vettica Minore and Tovere , all situated to the W. of the town in a district which produces an abundant supply of wine, oil and fruit. The coast is overgrown with the aloe and cactus opuntia. "'Ravello, an ancient and celebrated town in a lofty situation, is the most attractive point in the neighbourhood of Amalfi. Ascent l*|.i hr., with guide (2—31., p. 153^ donkey 21.). The views are charming, and an op- portunity of inspecting the Moorish style of architecture is enjoyed. The route is by Atrani ; thence a somewhat steep ascent by steps. The town, which in the zenith of its prosperity possessed 13 churches, 4 monasteries, numerous palaces and a population of 36,000, is now a mere village. The traveller first reaches the Cathedral ^ founded in the 11th cent., with modernized interior. The bronze- doors, with numerous representations ol saints, date from 1179. The magnificent ’"Ambo, in marble, decorated with mosaics, was founded in 1272. It rests on 6 columns supported by lions- Inscription : “Nicolaus de Fogia marmorarius hoc opus fecit”. Opposite tcj it is the pulpit, in a simpler style, with a representation of Jonah swallowec by the whale. In the choir the episcopal throne, adorned with mosaics. On the 1. the Cappella di S. Pantaleone, containing the blood of the saint- In the Sacristy a Madonna by Andrea Sabattini of Salerno. The ** Palazzo Rufalo^ now the property of an English gentleman, at structure in the Saracenic style of the 12th cent., was once occupied by Pope Adrian IV., King Charles II. and Robert the Wise. In the centre is a small court with a colonnade, of apparently frail construction. A veranda in the garden commands a delightful ' prospect (fee 5 — 6 sous). of Naples. AMALFI. 10. Route. 155 S. Giovanni^ a modernized basilica supported by columns, contains a ine old pulpit. The adjacent garden (4 sous), formerly the property of the i’Afflitto family, affords a fine *view of the valley and small town of Vlinori, and of the more distant Majori as far as the Capo Tumulo. — Other joints of subordinate interest may be visited if time permits. The traveller will be amply rewarded by extending the excursion by 1—3 hrs. as follows : by Scala^ a village with an episcopal church, and by he ruined castle of JScaletta^ to Pontone ; thence a descent to the mill- /alley. Fiom [Amalfi to Sorrento the bestroute is by water as ;ar as Scaricatojo (boat see p. 153; passage 2 — 2^/2 hrs.; thence )n foot or donkey in 2^/2 hr.), skirting the picturesque coast "costiera occidentale ) Und passing the promontory of Conca , the precipitous cliffs of Fuore., the village of Prajano with its luxu- 'iant vines and olives, and Vettica Maggiore in the vicinity; then PositanO j picturesquely situated at the base of the mountains, inder the kings of the Anjou family an important harbour. The church of S. Maria deW Assunta contains a quaint sculpture of i sea-monster, probably obtained from some temple of Neptune. A large proportion of the merchants’ clerks of 'Lower Italy are latives of Positano, who assemble here annually to celebrate their >reat church - festival and return in later life hither to spend :heir declining years. The population therefore consists princi- pally of old men, women and children. The boatmen occasionally propose to land their passengers at Positano, if the sea is at all rough, under the pretence that there is no good landing-place at Scaricatojo. Travellers desirous of continuing their voyage should lot allow themselves to be deterred by such representations, but nsist on being conveyed to their proper destination. From Scaricatojo to Sorrento [ 2^/2 hrs.; a guide, not ibsolutely necessary, may be engaged at Conti (see below), as far is which the path cannot be missed (IV 2 — ^ 1.); donkeys (p. 139) lot to be had at Conti] the path at first ascends by steps in the •ocks; after an ascent of 1 hr. Li Conti di Geremenna^ a group of louses on the height, is reached. Here in a straight direction, Avoiding the path to the 1. Immediately after the ridge is traver- sed, a view is disclosed of the Bay of Naples, Capri, Ischia and 4?rocida. After 5 min. a straight direction, avoiding the stony lath to the 1. ; after 25 min., nearly at the base of the hill, the lath leads to the r. between walls; after 5 min., to the 1.; after ') min. more, to the 1. by the narrow path to Sorrento (to the •. to Carotto, p. 141); again, after 5 min., to the 1. between vails and then by the high road to the 1. ; 25 min.. Belvedere di Sorrento; 20 min., Sorrento (p. 139). From Positano to Sorrento ( 31/2 hrs.; guide 2 1., not lecessary) the path ascends 1 hr. to the mountain-ridge, where ;he first path to the 1. is taken, leading into the forest; after r min. an old stone gate is passed, whence the road descends t56 I^oute 10. LITTLE S. ANGELO. farther through the wood fnot to be missed). After hr. by the first house to the L; f /2 hr. a church; at the next cross- way to the r. The path continues descending to the r. ; after i V 2 hr. in the valley to the 1. ; 5 min. farther the high-road is 1 reached, and ( 1/2 hr.) Sorrento (p. 139). From Amalfi round the runta della ('ampanella to Capri, p. 141; to Sorrento, p. 139; for the entire passage 6 hrs. are required; with 4—6 rowers 30—35 1. From Amalfi to Castellamare by the Little S. Angelo (7 hrs.; donkey not recommended on account of the roughness of the path; a fatiguing walk which hardly repays the trouble, as the view from the summit is partially impeded; inquiry, moreover, should he made before starting as to the safety of the route: in .Tune, 1865, it was thought neces- sary to give the editor an escort of 3 carabineers, 5 1. each. In 1867 the district was known to be infested by brigands). The finest portion of the route is as far as (Ujo hr.) Fort S. Lazai^o (see below), a point which may itself form the object of an excursion from Amalfi (as, however, the path is enclosed between walls, with the exception of the last ij 2 hr., a donkey should be taken thus far, enabling the traveller to see beyond the walls; a supply of provisions also desirable). — The path leads by Fastina and Vettica Minore in the Val Vettica, a picturesque ravine. Farther off, to the 1., at the base of the mountain slope, is situated Conca, consisting of a few scattered houses, where the long Punta di Conca extends into the sea. Then | by a steep and unshaded path in 1(2 hr. to S. Lazaro, a fort with a small I garrison; the terrace beneath commands a strikingly beautiful prospect of I the luxuriant coast as far as Positano (p. 155), to the N. Monte S. Angelo (p. 138). From the fort the path is shaded by walnut and cherry-trees as : far as Agerola (in one of the last houses to the r. wine of an inferior ' quality may be obtained). Thence ^2 hr. to the culminating point, 6'. Angelo i a Giiida, partly through wood. On the summit a wild district, to the 1. 1 the ridge of La Parata, to the r. the slight eminence Piano di Perillo, over- grown with brushwood. The only fine view is towards the N. of the Bay of Naples; to the S. the sea alone is visible. From the summit to (3 hrs.) Gragnano an arduous descent by stony and precipitous paths. From Gragnano to (3|4 hr.) Castellamare and the (fq hr.) Hotel et Pension Anglaise (p. 137) a dusty high-road. 11. From Ancona to Brindisi and the Apulian Peninsula. The E. districts of Italy, to the S. of Ancona, have, until very recently, been entirely beyond the reach of the ordinary traveller. Moreover the W. coast is by far the richer and more picturesque, as well as more replete with historical interest. The E. districts can boast of no such names as those of Koine, Naples, Florence etc., but they are not devoid of attraction and have been endowed T)y nature with a considerable share of the gifts she has so bounteously lavished on other parts of Italy. The Apennines rising at a short distance from the coast send forth a series of parallel ramifications, fornnng an equal number of parallel valleys, whose communication with the external world is maintained by means of the coast to which they descend. The shores are flat and monotonous and destitute of good har- bours. The estuaries of the small rivers alford but scanty protection to the vessels of the coasting trade. Even at xVneona the prominent M. Conero alone renders the anchorage tolerable. The villages and towns, in which Ideal jieculiarilies often ju-evail in a marked degree, are generally situated FERMO. 11. Route. 157 on the heights, and conspicuous at a great distance. Towards the W. the view is bounded by the central chain of the Apennines, which extend towards the S. of Ancona, from 43o to 4‘2o K. lat., in several continuous ranges, from the Montagna della Sibilla to the Gran JSasso d'ltalia and Majella. They here attain their greatest elevation and are covered with snow as late as July. Towards the E. glitters the Adriatic., animated on bright days by numerous sails. Such is the scenery presented by the formerly papal I province of Ancona and the Neapolitan provinces of tlie Abruzzi with their capitals Teramo and Chieti. Farther S. than 42® the aspect of the country is different : the Apennines gradually recede from the coast, M. Gargano f being the last spur of moderate height which advances to the sea. Beyond : this stretches the Apulian plain, an extensive tract of pasture and arable land, which to the S. becomes gradually more confined by the mountain- chain. Under 4lo the Apennines divide ^ the main chain, extending towards i the S., forms the peninsula of Calabria; the lower chain, to the E., that of ^ Apulia. The coast here becomes less monotonous ; Brindisi, Otranto and Gallipoli possess harbours of considerable importance. In consequence of the political changes of the last few years, the E. half of Italy has been drawn into the vortex of traffic and is no longer ; excluded from the rest of the world by insufficient means of communication. Since the completion of the railway from Ancona to Brindisi and the im- provements which the harbour of the latter has undergone, this route forms the most direct line of communication between Western and Central Europe and the East. Should the blessings of peace be preserved to Italy, it may with certainty be predicted that the traffic here will rapidly increase and thus render the entire district more attractive. At present the larger towns alone contain tolerable inns. Travelling in the province of Ancona is in every respect safe and agreeable, which unfortunately cannot be said of many parts of the W. coast. The distance by Railway from Apcona to Brindisi is about 350 M. ; express to Brindisi daily, in correspondence with the express trains from Milan and Bologna, in 19 hrs. ; fares 61 1. 50 c., 43 1. 5 c., 30 1. 75 c. The local trains stop for the night at Pescara or Foggia. The line skirts the coast, to the 1. view of the Adriatic, r. the Apennines with their lateral valleys. The towns generally lie inland on the heights, at some distance from the stations, with which they communicate regularly by diligences (cheap, but often uncomfortable). From Ancona to Civitanuova, see in Part II. of this Handbook. The line crosses the Chienti ; then stat. Porto S. Elpidio, the village several miles inland. The river Tenna is then crossed. Stat. Porto 8. Giorgio. On the heights, 3 M. inland, is situated Fermo {Locanda delV Aquila ; fare by dilig. or carr. 50 c.), the ancient Firmum Picenum., with 20,000 inhab., seat of an archbishop and capital of the province of the same name. It became a Roman colony after the beginning of the first Punic war and has continued since that period to be a town of some importance. At the Porta 8. Francesco., by which the town is entered, are seen remnants of the ancient wall, constructed at a very remote period. The streets ascend somewhat precipitously to the height on which the handsome Piazza is situated ; the Townhall here contains some inscriptions and antiquities. Antiquarians should visit the collection of the avvocato M. de Minicis. Without the town, fine views of the fertile district, the Apennines and the sea. The line next crosses the brooks Lett Vivo and Aso. Stat. : Pedaso, Marano^ Grottammare. On the height, 4Y2 M. from the latter, is situated the town of Ripatransone Avith 5000 inhab. Near Marano lay in ancient times the toAvn of Cupramarittima., 158 Route 11. ASCOLI. From Ancona with a celebrated temple dedicated to the Sabine goddess Cupra, restored by Hadrian, A. D. 126. The inhabitants of these districts greatly resemble their Neapolitan neighbours in manners and i appearance. Stat. S. Benedetto (tolerable inn), a small sea-coast town. Ascoli C'Locanda delV Aquild)., the ancient Asculum Picenum^ with 12,000 inhab., seat of a bishop and capital of a province, is situated in the fertile valley of the Tronto, 21 M. from the station (dilig. twice daily in 3^|2 hrs., fare li|2 1.). The road ascends on the N. side of the valley and crosses to the S. side where the town lies. The valley is here contracted and enclosed by lofty mountains. To the N. rises the jagged M. della Ascensione^ to the W. the Sibilla^ more towards the S. the Pizzo di Hevo. Mountain roads lead hence by Norcia to Spoleto, others through the valleys of the Velino and Aterno to Aquila (p. 173) and the interior of the Abruzzi. Ascoli, an ancient town in an important situation, the capital of the tribe of Picentines, took a prominent part in the Social war against Rome and was captured and destroyed by Pompey. Interesting remnants of the ancient wall, a bridge, and a *gate at the W. end of the town. The town-hall con- i tains a few inscriptions, and other relics are encountered in other parts of i the town, e. g. insignificant vestiges of a theatre and amphitheatre. The architecture of the churches and palaces dates principally from a period i prior to the Renaissance, and contributes materially to the pleasing aspect i of the town, which is indeed the most attractive on the entire E. coast. i The "Cathedral is said to have been founded by Constantine on the site of a temple of Hercules. The original substructure is still recognisable. A I chapel to the r. in the interior contains good pictures by Crivelli. Beyond S. Benedetto the line crosses the Tronto, the ancient Truentus, formerly the boundary between the States of the Church and the kingdom of Naples. i Stat. Tortoreto, then Giulianova^ a dirty village on the height, 41/2 M. from the coast, erected in the 15th cent, by the inhabi- tants of the ancient Castrum Novum on the Tordino ^ named S. Flaviano at that period.) Teramo, the ancient Inter amna., capital of the province Abruzzo ultra I., seat of a bishop, with 10,000 inhab., is M. distant (post-omnibus 21., one-horse carr. 51., in 2^j2—3 hrs.), situated on the 1. bank of the Tordino. The Gothic cathedral is now modernized. The valley commands a suc- cession of fine views of the imposing Gran Sasso. The town contains several inns, the best in the Piazza, where the Ca/d d'ltalia is also situated. The ascent of the Gran Sasso or Monte Corno (9208 ft.) may best be undertaken from this point. (As this district is very rarely visited by travellers, letters of recommendation to a resident are highly desirable.) The previous night is spent at the village of Isola, 14 M. from Teramo, situated on the road to Aquila (p. 173), at the foot of the mountain, which is ascended thence partly with mules and partly on foot. The character of the scenery resembles that of the Alps. A new road ascends the valley of the Vomano to Aquila (comp. p. 172). The line now crosses the Tordino , the ancient Batinus , then the Vomano { Vomanus). Stat. Mutignano. About 6 M. inland (dilig. in the afternoon 1 1. 25 c., other conveyances rarely ob- tainable) is situated Atri (*Albergo di Vine. Marcone), the an- cient lladria, an episcopal residence, with 10,000 inhab., a town of great antiquity and celebrated for its copper coins. Its im- portance is testified by numerous ruins. The Gothic cathedral to Brindisi. PESCARA. 11. Route. 159 )rith its frescoes merits a visit. It rests on extensive foundations )f ancient origin, perhaps those of a temple. Several large grottoes near the town are also of very remote date. The Piomha is now crossed, the ancient Matrinus, 4 M. distant rom which, inland, is situated Civita Santangelo, with 7000 inh. I— Stat. Montesilvano ; I672 M. inland lies Civita di Penne, capital of the district, with 11,000 inhab., the Pinna of the an- dents and chief town of the Vestini , of which period a few 7 estiges may still be seen. Pescara (Leone d" Oro)., one of the principal stations, a small ind dirty town, situated on the N. bank of the Pescara (diligences ;tart from the station ; carr. to the town 1/2 1.). The mountain- p*oup of the Majella., culminating in M. Amara (8444 ft., accor- iing to others 8940 ft.) , and 55 M. in circumference, now beco- nes visible on the r. The line crosses the river by an iron bridge, .)elow which a wooden bridge and small harbour are situated, then lescribes a curve round the town. Pescara is a fortress and lies n a low and unhealthy situation. A high road leads hence to jhieti, Popoli, Solmona and through the Abruzzi to Naples, ee R. 12. Stat. Francavilla; the village on the height to the r. Beyond his, a mountain-spur projects into the sea, and the train passes hrough 3 short tunnels. Beyond the third the fort of Ortona becomes visible on the 1. Another tunnel, then stat. Ortona. The own (Caprera ; Cafe in the Piazza), 3)^ M. distant from the station, he ancient Orton, capital of the Frentani, is now tolerably clean ,nd w^ell-built place with 10,000 inhab. It lies on a promontory n an elevated position; on the shore below a small marina, leautiful views towards the S. as far as the Punta di Penna see below), especially of the ancient and dilapidated fort. The rchitecture of the cathedral should be inspected. Ortona is the nly suitable resting-place on the long journey between Ancona nd Foggia. Beyond Ortona another tunnel; two brooks are crossed, then tat. S. Vito Chietino ; three more tunnels , beyond which a fine ^iew of the peninsula terminating in the Punta di Penna. Stat. ^^ossacesia ; II /4 M. inland lies Lanciano, the ancient Anxanum, nth 14,000 inhab., capital of the most populous district of the rovince Abruzzo Citeriore. The Sangro, Lat. Sangrus, is crossed. Stat. Torino di Sangro. ?hree tunnels; then, on an olive-clad eminence on the r., Vasto ecomes visible, 1 M. distant from the station. Vasto (* Locanda di Castello , outside the gate ; those in the own dirty; Cafe Nazionale) , the ancient Histonium, with a opulation of 12 , 000 , lies high and commands fine views as far s the Tremiti islands (p. 160) and Monte Gargano. The small 1(30 Route 11. TKKMOLI. From Ancond cathedral with Gothic fai^ade bears a memorial tablet to Generj:^ ^^Carlo Antonio Manhes distruttore de’ briganti primo cittadir del Vasto”, date 1810. A small museum in the town-hall contaiin inscriptions and other relics found here. The environs, rich olive plantations, are still infested by banditti. The line crosses the Trigno , Lat. Trinius. Stat. Termol (^Venezia ^ in the suburbs), a fortress close to the sea, with mei diseval walls, excessively dirty. Charming prospect of the Majell and Abruzzi. The cathedral, with Gothic facade, contains number of quaintly decorated saints. From Termoli diligences and omnibus daily to Maddaloni (p. 11) on th| Rome and Naples railway, fare 15 1. Distance 120 M., accomplished i| about 24 hrs., with a short halt at Campobasso. The first half of the rout is monotonous. The first important place is (21 M.) Larino (Loc. di Agostini Milano), situated in a valley, near the ruins of the ancient Larinum. Th| road continues to ascend through a bleak district. Campobasso (two tolei able inns), 35 M. farther, capital of the province of Molise, is a placi of some importance. The steel wares manufactured here enjoy a hig reputation. ' From Campobasso to Maddaloni 63 M., diligence in 9 hrs. The roa' after traversing the mountain ridge, descends into the valley of the Tamar(\ The country becomes more attractive. Post-stat. Sepino ; the town liej 13|4 M. higher. About 2^1^ M. from this point are situated the extensi\ ruins of the ancient Saepinum., now Altilia. 14 M. farther, at a short di-, tance to the 1. of the road, is the village of Pontelandolfo., the inhabitant! of which in 1861 cruelly and treacherously assassinated 36 Italian soldier] and 4 carabineers, whom they had received with apparent hospitality am induced to lay down their arms. General Cialdini caused the troops to tak a summary and sanguinary revenge. Then the village of Guardia S. Fra mondi. The road now descends to the beautiful valley of the Galore., whic! it crosses by an iron bridge. The river is then skirted for a considerabl distance, then the Volturno^ of which the Galore is a tributary. Fine view of the valley, overtopped by the Matese Ms., which culminate in 31. 3Iilett (6520 ft.). The road then quits the river, turns towards the S., passe Ducentola., and enters the valley of Maddaloni. The aqueduct under whicl it passes is 2^z M. from the town. The Tremiti Islands^ the mythological Insulae Diomedeae, thj largest of which is S. Domenico., lie 6 M. to the N.E. of Termolij They now serve, as in ancient times , as places of confinement. Beyond Termoli the country becomes less attractive. THa^Biferno Lat. Tifernus, is crossed; then stations Campomarino and Chieuti Beyond the Tortore, the ancient Trento, stat. Ripalta is reached In this neighbourhood, June 15th, 1053, the Normans conquerei and captured Pope Leo IX. and then , falling on their knees implored his blessing. Leo relenting imparted it, and subsequent!; conferred Apulia, Calabria and Sicily on the brothers Humfret and Bobert Guiscard, a grant which was ultimately fraught witl so important consequences for Rome and the papal throne, -a? well as for the Normans. To the N.E. is the Lago di Lesina which communicates with the sea. The line now proceeds inland in order to avoid the promontory of M. Gargano , a buttress oJ the Apennines with several peaks 4000 ft. in height, projecting to Brindisi. FOGGIA. U. Route, jgj into the sea. Stations Poggio Imperiale , Apricena , San Severo. The latter is a prosperous town with 17,226 inhab. In 1799, after a gallant resistance, it was taken and almost entirely destroyed by the French. The cholera committed fearful ravages here in I860. Stat. Motta, then Foggia (Albergo Corsini , in the Str. S. Antonio; * Villa di Torino, a restaurant with a few bed-rooms; *Cafe di Europa, where inquiry as to apartments may be made}, the well-built bapital of the province Capitanata, with 32,493 inhab. The spa- cious church, originally erected by the Normans, and partially destroyed by an earthquake in 1731, was subsequently re-erected in a more modern style. Here king Manfred was crowned in 1258, ind in 1^9< Francis I., then Duke of Calabria, was here united to his first queen, Maria Clementina of Austria. A gateway still ixists, appertaining to a palace of Frederick II. who was extremely partial to Foggia. A fountain, the Pozzo dell’ Imperatore, derives ts appellation from that emperor. In the stronghold constructed )y Manfred, Charles I. and his son Philip expired. A fair of considerable importance is held annually at Foggia in May. To ;he S. of the town, on the way to the railway, the Giardino Pubblico, adorned with a number of busts. A large portion of the spacious plain around Foggia is em- ployed as a sheep - pasture (Tavoliefe della Puglia). During the ummer the flocks graze among the mountains, and in October eturn to the plain by three great routes (Tratture delle Pecore). These great migrations , during which hundreds of flocks may be ^countered in one day, date from the Roman period. Alphoiiso I., v^ho introduced the merino sheep , converted the pastures into a oyal domain in 1445. The number of sheep supported by these pastures amounted to 41/2 million at the close of the 16th cent. A the present day, owing to the advancement of agriculture, the iumber has decreased to less than half a million. About 3 M. distant from Foggia, to the N. , are situated the canty remnants of the ancient town of Arpi or Argyripe, founded ccording to tradition by Diomedes , subsequently superseded by 'oggia. A road traversing the fertile plain leads by (21 M.) the ruined monas- :ry of S. Leonardo, founded by Hermann of Salza in 1223, and the church f Sipontvm to the seaport-town of Manfredonia, erected in 1256 by king ' antred on the ruins of the ancient Sipontum, which revered Diomedes as s founder. The site of Sipontum, sunounded by marshes, is now occupied ir* the handsome church of the Madonna di Siponto, once the cathedral rock. Then MonopoU^ with 16,000 inhab., seat of an archbishop. The cathedral contains a St. Sebastian by Palma Yecchio. From Bari to Taranto see R. 16. The prosperous town of Fasano (11,022 inhab.) is the tirst in the Terra (V Otranto. Then Ostuni ^ with 15,392 inhab. Stat. S. and tinally Brindisi (HCdeL d’ Orient^ near the harbour; Hotel d' Anyleterre j ^ the ancient Brentesion or Brundisium, signifying ‘‘stag’s head," an allusion to the form of the harbour w^hich encloses the town in two arms. This once populous seaport, the usual point of em- barcation for Greece (Dyrracliium) and the East, founded according! to tradition by Cretans from Cnossus , or according to others by ^Etolians under Diomedes , is now a small fortified town , seat oil a bishop, and since 1845 a free port. The extensive and excel- lent harbour is undergoing improvement. Near it are remains cl a temple of Neptune. The surrounding district is fertile and well, cultivated, but unhealthy, owing to the deposit of mud in the| harbour and the consequent formation of marshes in the environs. | The CasteLlo with its massive round towers was founded by thd emp. Frederick II. and strengthened by Charles V. The remar- kably picturesque remains of a circular church , with colonnades^ and decorated with frescoes, are still preserved. In the Cathedrali the nuptials of Frederick II. with Jolaiitha took place in 1225.^ Interesting reminiscences of ancient times are connected with the^ name of this town , which at a very early period was colonized|| by Tarentines and B. C. 245 became subject to Rome. Here terminated the Via Appia. Horace describes in his Sat. I. 5 his journey by this route from Rome to Brundisium in the train ol Maecenas , who wished to be present at the conclusion of a newj alliance between Augustus and Antony at Tarentum. Brundisium was the birthplace of the tragic poet Pacuvius, and here Virgil died, B. C. 19, on his return from Greece. In the middle ages its harbour frequently afforded shelter to the tleetS4 of the crusaders, but it subsequently fell to decay, especially after! its destruction by Louis of Hungary in 1348 and the fearful earth-^ quake of 1458, which buried the greater number of the inhabi- tants in the ruins. Brindisi possesses a public library, presented by a bishop de Leo , a native of the place. The \essels of the Austrian ‘ Lloyd’’ company touch at Brindisi on their route to Corfu and Patras; so also the government-steamers on the passage from Ancona to Messina, which proceed hence by Corfu and Gallipoli. to Brindisi. LECCE. 11. Route. 105 From Brindisi the line proceeds (in 1 hr. 20 min. ; fares 4 1. 10, 2 1. 95, 2 1. 10 c.) by the stations of S. Pietro, Squinzano, Trepuzzi to Lecce (^Alhergo della Ferrovia, R. 3 1., reduced charges accor- ling to agreement), the capital of the province, with 17,836 inhab., jiituated a short distance from the sea (to which a road leads by Vastello di S. Cataldo, 4^2 distant, a favourite object of ex- I ursions), seat of a bishop, and possessing several handsome buildings n the Renaissance style, such as the cathedral, dedicated to St. )rontius, an ancient castle etc. The town, which is a dull place n an unattractive district, occupies the site of the ancient Lupia. Vt no great distance was situated Rudiae, where B. C. 239 Ennius, he father of Roman poetry, was born ; now Rugge, a place of no mportance. The poet died in 168, patronized by the Scipios, in vhose burialplace at Rome his remains were deposited. From Lecce a road leads by the industrial town of Nardd., the ancient \^eretvm of the Sallentini, now an episcopal residence, or by Galatiua., to 23f'2 M.) the seaport, beautifully situated on a rocky island in the Gulf of aranto, of Gallipoli, the Urbs Grata Callipolis of the Geographer Mela, the Anxa f Pliny (III. 11. 100), founded by the Lacedemonian Leucippus and the ’arentines. The town is at the present day celebrated for the excellence f its oil. Date-palms are frequently seen in the gardens of the handsome illas in the vicinity. The steamers betw'een Ancona and Messina touch ere 3 times monthly. The line from Lecce to Otranto is at present (March 1869) pened as far as Maglie (in 1 hr. 13 min. ; fares 3 1. 10, 2 1. 0 , 11. 55 c.). Stations : S. Cesario di Lecce , S. Donato, 'ternatia, Zollino , Corigliano , Maglie, whence the traveller is onveyed by omnibus or diligence to (902 ^0) Otranto, the Greek Hydras, the Roman Hydrunturn, a colony nd municipium, often mentioned by the ancients as a point of mbarcation for Apollonia in Epirus, subsequently for a long eriod subject to the Greek emperors, in the 11th cent, captured y the Normans, who under Robert Guiscard and Bohemund con- ucted from this point the siege of Durazzo (Dyrrachium) in Al- ania, now an insignificant fishing town. It possesses a fortress dth two towers, erected by Alphonso of Arragon and strengthened y Charles V. , and is also the seat of an archbishop. On July 8th, 1480, the then prosperous town w^as attacked by the Tur- ish fleet under Achmet Pascha, grand-vizier of Mohammed 11. , ad entirely destroyed; 12,000 of the inhabitants were put to eath , the remainder carried off as slaves , the churches razed to le ground and the archbishop and priests barbarously maltreated, i he following year the Turks were expelled by the Duke of Ca- ■bria, afterwards Alphonso IL , but the town never recovered ! om the effects of this cruel assault. The cathedral still contains. 100 Route 11. S. MARIA DI LEUCA. From Aneona some columns which once appertained to a temple of Mercury which stood near the village of S. Nicola, in the vicinity of th( town. The ancient mosaics in the church were much injured b; the hoofs of the Turkish horses which were stabled in the sacre< edilice. In a chapel are preserved the bones of many of the ill fated victims of the Turkish onslaught. From the ramparts of the castle in favourable weather th- coast of Epirus with its lofty mountains is visible. Communi cation with Corfu is maintained by means of small boats am sailing vessels. A road in the vicinity of the sea leads to (972 M.) the pro montory of Leuca by Muro (to the r.) and Castro , situated oi a rocky eminence by the sea and therefore supposed to be ideri tical with the Castrum. Minervae , that point of Italy which , ac cording to Virgil, was first beheld by .^neas ; then through succession of gardens and vineyards to Tricase, Vfi M. from th sea, Alessano, Mor)tes(irdo, Path and finally S. Maria di Leuca a village on the site of the ancient Leuca, not far from the pro montory of Leuca or Fmisterra. This is the Promontorium la pygium of the ancients, the extreme point of Apulia, comman ding a noble prospect. In fine weather the lofty Acroceraunia mountains of Albania can be distinguished. In returning the traveller may vary the route by proceedin by Path , Presicce , TJggento , the ancient Vxentum. , an episcop; residence, and Taviano to Gallipoli, a distance of 327-2 M. 12. From Ancona to Naples by Pescara, Popoli, Soimona and through the Abruzzi. Of the principal routes which connect the E. with the W. districts ( Italy, traversing the mountains of the interior, this is one of the moi frequented and, for those proceeding southwards, the most direct. Raii way from Ancona to Pescara in 5 hrs. (express in 4 hrs.); fares 16 10c., 111. 25c., 81. 5c. From Pescara to Caianiello on the Rome ar Naples line, a distance of 117 M., D iligence daily in 24 hrs.-, fare 34 50 c. (Office at Naples in the Str. S. Brigida 15.) From Caianiello to Naph Railway in 3 hrs.; fares 8 1. 80c., 71. 5c., 51. 30c. This route traverses scenery of the most imposing character and aflfor< an admirable opportunity to the traveller of forming some acquaintanc with these remarkably interesting districts of Italy. The dangerous poin are guarded by the military. As far as Soimona the country ha5 be* entirely freed from banditti. The latter portion of the route, however, still regarded as unsafe-, but the traveller need be under no apprehension as the diligence is accompanied by an escort. A railway, which to some extent coincides with this route, is in cour, of construction from Pescara to Oeprano on the Liris, passing by Chiet Popoli, Soimona and the Lago di Fucino; thence by the valley of the Lir to the Rome and Naples line. From .\m;ona to Pescara, see R. 11. to Naples. POPOLI. 12. Route. 167 The road ascends , remaining on the r. bank of the Pescara^ the valley of which gradually contracts. Chieti lies several miles distant, on the heights to the S. From Pescara to Chieti, 10i|2 M. ; diligence in 2 hrs. c^cending, liU hr. descending; fare 21. 50c. Those who contemplate a detour by Chieti proceed from this point, after their return, by the high road to an Osteria M.) where the diligence halts, by which the mam route is continued. From Chieti to Popoli 26 M., two-horse carr. about 25 1. Chieti (Sole; Corona di Ferro; Caf4 d" Italia, in the Corso), the ancient Teate Marrucinorum, capital of the province Abruzzo Citra, is a clean and animated town with a population of 18,000. From the Piazza \ittorio Emanuele a promenade leads round the town, affording magnificent views of the Maiella, the course of the Pescara and the mountainous district as far as the sea. The order of the Theatines, established in 1555 by Paul IV., who had been archbishop of Chieti, derives its appellation from Adorers of ancient Christian architecture are strongly recommended to visit the abbey of S. Clemente di Casauria. Ascent of 20 mm. from Pescara by Ponte Orte (or a carriage may be taken by a by-road m. farther to the village of Torre de' Passer i), then across the river to Torre de’ Passeri, whence the abbey is reached in 25 min. It consists of a ba- silica with ancient sculptures and an adjacent monastery, unfortunately ereatlv dilapidated. In ancient times Interpromium stood here, relics from which are still preserved in the church. The traveller may return by a bridge for foot-passengers to the high road in 20 min., having previously ordered the carriage to meet him. This digression does not occupy much above 1 hr. About 37-2 M. before Popoli is reached the valley of the Pes- cara contracts to a narrow ravine, enclosed by abrupt cliffs. Popoli (Posta, noisy; Cafe in the Piazza) is a small town with considerable traffic arising from its situation at the junction of the roads from Pescara, Aquila (R. 14), Avezzano (R. 1) and Solmona (see p. 168). A short distance above the town the Girio and Aterno unite and form the Pescara; the former, coming from the S., flows through the beautiful valley of Solmona. The town is commanded by the ruined castle of the Cantelmi , who were once masters of the place. To Avezzano (p. 15) diligence daily at 3 p. m. in 9-^^) hrs. ; fai^ 11 L The road is bad, especially in winter. It passes by Pentima (see below). To Aquila (p. 173) a diligence also at 3 p. m. daily; omnibus (not to be recommended) at 12 midnight. With Solmona the communication is frequent. Two -horse carr. 5 1. ; distance IOV 2 M. The road leads on the r. bank of the Girio through the b*eautiful and fertile valley , enclosed by the Majella on the E. and the mountains of the Lago di Fucino on the W. The wine enjoys a high reputation (strong and well matured). 2 M 3 M. from Popoli a road diverges to the r. to Pentima (i M.) and beyond it to Avezzano (p. 15). On this road, a short distance beyond Pen- tima, is situated the cathedral of ='8. Pel i no (keys at the house ot a priest in the village), the remarkably interesting architecture of which is ot the 13th cent.; interior unfortunately modernized; pulpit of great age. io j 08 Route V2. SOLMONA. f rom Ancona the r. the chapel of St. Alexander of the 16lh cent. Around the church he the ruins of important city of Corfiuium^ once capital of the Pse- Social war of B. C. 90 elevated to the rank of capital of the Italian confederation under the name of Ilalica, but a few years later Iwfhi ^ Romans. - This digression may easily be combined with the further journey to Solinona. Farther on , to the r. lies the important village of Pratoleu Passing the ancient cathedral of S. Panfilo , the traveller shortly reaches ^ Solmona (1500 ft., t^^o poor inns), the ancient Sulmo of the Paeligni , birthplace of Ovid , who was much attached to this his “cool home, abounding in wateP' as he terms it. The town is picturesquely situated, being commanded on two sides by moun- tains, and contains several buildings remarkable for their mediaivai architecture. The fa<^ade of the handsome * Town Hail of the 16th cent, is adorned with statues of popes. Among other edi- fices , the palace ol Baron Tabassi, in a side -street, and the la<;:.ades of the churches of S. Francesco P Assisi and S. Maria della Tomba, though injured by the earthquake of 1803, deserve examination. From Solmona to Castel di Sangro (see below) 2b^/2 M. ; two- horse carr. 12 1. The road traverses the plain as far as (42/3 M.) Pettorano and then ascends by long windings to Rocca Valloscura, a village situated in a rocky ravine. Beautiful retrospects of the of Solmona. After a farther ascent the culminating point (4000 ft.) of the road is attained, the Piano di Cinquemiglia , a table-land enclosed by mountains and of the extent indicated by the name. In winter it is frequently impassable for several con- secutive months, and in summer the temperature is generally low. Beyond this plain the road inclines to the 1. and Rivisondoli be- comes visible. Then to the r. past Roccarasa, about 21/4 M. beyond w^hich the road descends by long windings to the valley of the Sangro, the ancient Sangrus. The village to the 1. is Rocca Cinquemiglia, The river is then crossed to Castel di Sangro {^Hotel de Commerce in the Piazza), on the r. bank of the broad and impetuous Sangro, picturesquely situated at the foot of lofty mountains. With the exception of the old church of S. Nicola by the bridge and the ruins of a castle, the place contains no objects of interest. — Diligence hence every evening to (35 M.) Lanciano (p. 159). From Castel di Sangro to Isernia (see below) about 231/2 M. ; dilig. in 5 hrs., fare 6 1. The heights which separate the valley oi the Sangro trom that of the Vandra , a tributary of the Vol- turno, are ascended. On the summit a picturesque view; to the I. below the town of Forli is visible. The road then descends by the villages of Rionera and Vandria , crosses the valley and to Naples. J8ERNIA. 12. Route. 169 reascends a second chain of hills. The summit commands a sur> vey of the extensive valley of the Volturno and Isernia. Isernia (*Loc. di Fettorossi) , the ancient isernia of the Samnites, formerly of importance on account of its secure position on an isolated eminence, is now a confined and dirty town, con- sisting of one long main street. A few Roman antiquities are seen here and there, as near S. Pietro; also fragments of the ancient wall in the polygonal style. In the autumn of 1860 a successful reaction of the Bourbonists against the Garibaldians took place here and w’as characterized by many excesses, but was soon put down by the troops under Cialdini. Archseologists may from this point visit the ruins of the ancient Bo- manum (a theatre and temple), near Pietrahhondante. Carriage-road to Pes- colanciano 9 M. ; corricolo 6 1. ^ thence bridle-path in 2 hrs. From Isernia diligence daily to Campobasso (p. 160) by Boiano., the ancient Bovianum Undecimanoruin . One-horse carr. from isernia to Ve- .nafro 6 1. From Isernia to the railway - station of Caianiello (p. 8) 29 M. The road at first traverses a hilly district, passing Macchia to the r. , then enters the valley of the Volturno, which it crosses. The broad valley, on the r. bank, is now traversed and (14^0 M.) Venafro is reached , the ancient Venafrum , rising on a hilf and surmounted by a ruined castle. The road continues to skirt the mountains; the Volturno finally turns to the S. and the small village and railway - station of Caianiello (poor inn, not suitable for spending the night) is reached. From Caianiello to Naples, see R. 1. 13. From Ancona by Foggia to Naples. This route is the shortest and by far the most frequented between E. Italy and Naples. From Ancona to Foggia railway in 11 hrs., or by the night - express in 8^14 hrs. 5 fares 35 1. 45 c., 24 1. 80 c., 17 1. 75 c. From Foggia to Naples railway in 11 hrs. ^ fares 17 1. 35 c., 131. 30 c., 6 1. 80 c. The unfinished portion from Savignano to S. Spirito is traversed by om- nibus (30-2 hrs.); tickets of the 1. and 2. Class have a claim to a seat in :he interieur. From Ancona to Foggia, see R. 11. The Naples line traverses the Tavogliere di Puglia (p. 161). Cervaro., first stat. Past stat. Giardinetto the valley of the Cervaro s entered, which is crossed at Ponte di Bovino. Stat. Bovino j 5 M. to the 1. is the town of this name, the ancient Vibinum^ low an episcopal residence, the inhabitants of which are notorious or brigandism. The railway proceeds on the r. bank of the Cervaro. Several unnels are passed; then follow the stations of Panni, Montaguto ind Savignaiio-Greci, at present the terminus of the line on this 170 BENEVKNTO. From Ancona side of the Apennines. The villages from which the stations derive their names , are all situated on the summits of high mountains on both sides of the deep and narrow valley of the Cervaro, or Valle di Bovino. From Savignano to S. Spirito passengers are conveyed by om- nibus (37*2 ^rs. , see p. 169), which at first run 1 hr. on the former post-road from Foggia to Ariano (p. 13), then, turning to j the r., through a wild and mountainous country, traverse a high | mountain ridge to the railway-station of S. Spirito. A long tun- | nel is next passed ; then stat. Montecalvo ; on a high mountain ' to the 1. the town of the same name (6400 inhab.). Past stat. , Apice the valley of the Calore is entered, which is twice crossed by well-built stone bridges. Stat. Ponte- Valentino ; then Benevento {Locanda di Gaeta^ in the Piazza, dirty), situated on an eminence, enclosed by the two rivers Sabato and Calore, capital of the former papal province (pop. 16,484), with narrow and dirty streets , which , however , are gradually undergoing im- provement. Beneventum, according to tradition founded by Diomedes, or by the son of TJiysses and Circe, was originally termed Maleventum , an inauspicious name which was changed when it became a Roman colony B. C. 208, and eventually one of the most important places in S. Italy. It was situated on the via Appia. In the 6th cent. A. D. Beneventum became the seat of a powerful Lombard duchy. In the 11th cent, the emperor Henry III. ' ceded it to the pope Leo IX., since which period it has belonged to Rome., with the exception of the short-lived sovereignty of Kapoleon I., who gran- ted it to Talleyrand. * Trajan s Triumphal Archj or porta aiirea, dating from A. D. 114, is one of the most beautiful and best preserved Roman structures in S. Italy. It now serves as a town -gate. It con- sists of a lofty marble arch with Corinthian pillars, covered with rich bas-reliefs representing the Dacian wars of the emperor and his apotheosis. Interesting walk along the Town Walls, which, as well as the town itself, contain numerous relics of antiquity. The Castle, E. of the town, erected in the 12th cent., is occupied by the government offices and a prison. The * Cathedral, dating from the 12th cent., is a beautiful edifice in the Lombard-Saracen style. In front of it stands a small Egyptian obelisk of red granite, covered with hieroglyphics, which once appertained to a temple of Isis , whose worship , to- gether with that of other oriental deities, was introduced here during the latter period of paganism. Built into the walls of the clock-tower is a bas-relief of Greek marble, representing the Cal>- donian boar decked, for the sacrifice. The wild boar still figu^e^ in the arms of Benevento. The principal door of the cathedra to Naples. TELESE. 13. Route. 171 is of bronze, adorned with basrellefs of New Testament subjects. It is said to have been executed at Constantinople in 1150. The interior is in the form of a basilica, supported by 60 co- lumns. Descending to the r. of the church , the visitor reaches the Palace of the Cardinal Legate^ now a barrack. The court con- tains a few' antiquities. A street descends from this piazza to the r. and leads through an ancient gateway to the site of the ancient theatre , now concealed by other buildings. The visitor may now continue his route along the bank of the Sabato , plan- ted with poplars, to the old Ponte Lehroso , by which the Via Appia once led to the town. It is now the site of a mill. Near it, to the W. , lie the ruins of Santi Quaranta ^ an extensive structure of brick wdth a “cryptoporticus” and colonnades , once probably appertaining to a bath-establishment. Outside the towm, at the W. entrance, is an Apis, a remnant of the ancient worship of Isis , interpreted by the local savants as the emblem of the Samnite League. The Galore is crossed by a handsome bridge , near which according to tradition , w'as the temporary burial place of the youthful and heroic king Manfred, who on Feb. 26th, 1266, in a battle against Charles I. of Anjou on the neighbouring plains, had lost his throne and his life through the treachery of the Barons of Apulia and the counts of Caserta and Acerra. Shortly afterwards, however, the body of the ill-fated prince was exhumed by order of Bartolommeo Pignatelli , Archbishop of Cosenza , con- veyed beyond the limits of the kingdom, and exposed unburied on the bank of the Rio Verde. Dante records this in his Purga- torio (III. 134). The railway proceeds on the 1. bank of the Galore. A tunnel "hs passed ; then stat. Vltulano and another tunnel. The valley expands; to the 1. on the mountain-slope Torrecuso. Before stat. Ponte di Benevento is reached , the Galore is crossed by an iron bridge. Another tunnel is traversed; then stat. S. Lorenzo Maggiore , whence a high-road leads to Campobasso and Termoli (comp. p. 160). Solopaca, next stat. ; ^2 to the 1. the small town of the same name (4500 inhab.), prettily situated at the foot of Monte Taburno. Before the next stat. Telese is reached, to the 1. the Lago di Telese^ a sulphurous pool, whose unhealthy exhalations infect the neighbourhood. Telese is a poor village on the slope of the hills to the r. , in summer visited for its mineral springs by the inhabitants of the district. Near it are a few remnants of the ancient Telesia , a town of the Samnites, taken by Hannibal and afterwards destroyed by the Romans and finally by the Saracens. 172 Route 13. DUGENTA. From Temi The line enters into the broad and fertile valley of the VoU turnOj which is crossed at first above, then below the junction of the Galore. Stat. Dugenia; on the Jsclero., 2 M. farther up ] S. Again de' Goii is situated, on the site of the ancient SaticoLa. The pass between S. Agata and Mojano is deemed by some to be the Caudine Forks, as the locality agrees better with Livy’s description than the pass near Arpaja (p. 11). Stat. ValLe; the railway ascends, passes under the centre arch of the Ponti della Valle (p. 11), whose turrets are seen on the r. skirting the Monte Taburno, and descends to Maddaloni (p. 11) and Caserta (p. 10). From Caserta to Naples the line traverses the richest and most highly cultivated part of the Terra di Lavoro. The last stations are Marcianise ^ Aversa (p. 24), S. Autimo ^ Frattn-Grumo and i Casoria. To the 1. glimpses of Vesuvius are occasionally obtained i between the trees. Arrival at Naples (central station) see p. 25. ’ 14. From Terni to Naples by Aquila and through the Abruzzi. This route, replete with picturesque scenery, traverses the mountainous district in the interior of Italy. From Popoli it coincides wuth R. 12 and like the latter terminates at Caianiello on the Rome and Naples line. Distance about 168 >1., traversed daily by Corriere, more rapid and com- fortable and in every respect preferable to the private diligences. On the completion of the network of railways now in the course of construction, this remarkably interesting route will probably be visited by numerous travellers. From Terni, a station on the Rome and Ancona line , the | railway route will proceed by Rieti and Aquila to Popoli , corresponding ' with the present route , where it will unite with the line destined to con- nect Pescara, Popoli, the Lago di Fucino and Isoletta. The road ascends from Terni to the heights whence the water- falls of the Velino (visited from Papigno, in the ravine to the 1.) descend and, remaining on the 1. bank of the river, traverses a i mountainous and wooded district. Where it reaches the plain of Rieti , it describes a long curve at the foot of the heights (a shorter footpath, available in dry weather only, intersects the ' plain in a straight direction), as far as the point where the moun- ,, tains approach the river. Here the Velino is crossed by the Ponte di Terria, where it is joined by the Turano to the 1., and the f road proceeds on the r. bank to Rieti, 3 M. distant. Another road, somewhat longer, but far more I'icturesque, diverges from . C. 72| by fugitive Messenians and which soon rose to prosperity, noi the capital of the province Calabria Ultra I. and an archiepis copal residence with a population of 15,692, or with the surroui ding villages 30,577. The town with its spacious streets rist from the sea to the beautiful hills in the rear, studded wit numerous and handsome villas. Nothing can surpass the singul? beauty of the environs and the view of the Sicilian coast, esp( cially in the evening when the sun sets behind the mountaii near Messina. The distance from the cathedral of Keggio t the lighthouse of Messina is about 42/3 M. The supposition th^; Sicily was once connected with the mainland was prevalent a a very early period and is borne out by modern geological in vestigations. Reggio was almost entirely overthrown by the earthquake ( 1783 and therefore wears a modern aspect, to which the previou history of the town has also contributed. It was first destroye by the Romans, then in 549 by the Goth Totila, in 918 by th Saracens , in 1005 by the Pisans , in 1060 by Robert Guiscard then by Frederick Barbarossa, and finally in 1552 and 1597 b the Turks. The cathedral contains nothing of importance. In the rear of Reggio rises the imposing and forest-clad Aspromontt the W. extremity ot the range which in ancient times bore the name ^ Silla; tlie highest point is the Montalto (6300 ft.). The summit is ovei grown with beech-trees, the slopes partly with pines. Here, in the vie nity of Reggio, Garibaldi was wounded and taken prisoner by the Italia troops under Pallavicini, Aug. 29th, 1862. The ascent, which is somewha arduous, is best undertaken from Scilla. Between Reggio and Messina steamboat communication twice daily, far 2 1. ; boat to or from the steamer at Reggio 25 c. — Carriages may be hire in the Piaz/a Vittorio Emanuele. The construction of a railway from Reggio to Taranto is in progress on the completion of which anotlier line is intended to skirt the W. coas from Reggio in the direction of Pahni and Monteleone., in connection wit the Naples and Salerno line. A short portion only is open, as far as th insignificant i»]aces Pellaro and Lazzaro (20 31.). Two trains dailv- fare I 1. 95 c., 1 1. 40 c., 11. SICILY. General Kemarks. Strabo, the Greek geographer, at one time terms Sicily an “addition” ■t another a “detached portion” of Italy ^ and there is indeed not one of le surrounding islands so intimately allied, geographically as well as istorically, with the great peninsula which bisects the Mediterranean oethe has justly observed that, without Sicily, Italy would lose much of s charms. “The climate cannot be too highly extolled; the beauties are mumerable. This cannot fail to be experienced by every traveller w^ho )rms acquaintance with this “pearl among islands”. Nor is the beauty f the scenery the sole attraction to the wanderer from the north. Those ho possess even a superficial knowledge of history cannot but experience profound interest in the places with which the most ancient Hellenic ad Roman traditions are connected, where the destinies of Athens Car- tage and Rome have been decided, and where such heroes of the middle ^s as Henry VI. and Frederick II. have ruled. Not a nation exists hich has materially influenced the destinies of European civilisation, that IS not left distinct traces of its activity in this island. Those whose time and resources permit are therefore strongly recom- ended to visit Sicily before proceeding homewards. A single week will iffme for an excursion to Palermo and its environs as far as Segesta. The jlebrated ruins of Selinunto and Girgenti would require a second week, □ose, however, whose taste leads them to prefer exploring the beautiful, hposmg and peculiar natural features of the island, should confine their tention to the N. and E. coast as far as Syracuse, for which a fortnight ay suffice, without extending their tour to the ruins on the less picturesoue W. angle. ^ Travelling in Sicily is no longer attended with the difficulties and -ngers of former years, but those who desire more than a mere super- lal acquaintance with the island must be prepared for numerous priva- )ns and considerable expense. Hotels worthy of the name are nowhere be found except at Palermo, Messina, Taormina, Catania, Svracuse and apani. Vermin everywhere. The circuit of the island is performed by steamers weekly ; starting- int Palermo, principal stations Messina and Syracuse. , A short railway runs from Palermo to Termini, and the important line tween Messina and Catania has been recently opened. The entire net- )rk of railways, with which the island is destined to be intersected, has en ^mmenced, but the only line now approaching completion is that >m Catania to Lentini. Until the completion of these railways the A^ller must avail himself of other modes of conveyance. Carriages may hired in all the larger towns, and when drawn by three horses progress th tolerable rapidity, accomplishing about 40 M. daily. The usual charge ’oughout the island for a carriage, when engaged for several days, is ■ “25 1. per diem, including toll-dues (la catena) and everything except a I duity (buona mano, Imttiglia) to the driver. For a party of 3—4 pers 190 .SICILY. (jtnerid Remarks. this is the {.leasantest mode of travelling, but unfortunately a great part < the coast i.s accessible on foot or on horseback only. The following are the routes which may be accomplished by carriagj from Palermo, the distances being given in Engl, miles tl Sicil. Miglia lij2 kilomet. = Engl. M. =4^5 Ital. M.): 1. To Messina 220'(4 M., T.| Misilmeri, Villafrate, Vallalunga, Castrogiovanni, Adernb (138»|4 M.), C.< tania (16‘2i|4 M.) and Giardini (Taormina)^ or from Adernb by Bronte, Bait dazzo etc. (‘2143|4 31. only). From this main-route several other good ca riage-roads diverge; (i. S. Caterina to (. altanisetta^ b. Prcim (atania 1*| Lentini, Syracuse (47 31.), Noto (67>,2 3I.), 3Iodica, Ragusa, Vittoria (121 31 and Terranova-, c. From Catania to Caltagirone (47314 31.). — 2. From Pij lermo to Girgenti by Lercara (88 31.). — 3. From Palermo to Corleone lij Parco (36>j2 31.). — 4. From Palermo by Alcamo (30 31.) and Calatafinj (40114 3E) to Trapani (633|4 31.). — 5. From Palermo in the direction of 3Iej sina bv Termini (23i|2 31.), Cefalu (45 31.), as far as Finale (56M4 31.). 6. From Trapani by 3Iarsala (193|4 31.), 3Iazzara (31 31.), Castelvetrad (42^ 4 31.) and Salemi (5l3j4 31.) to Calatalimi (671/2 31.).— 7. From 3Iessin:, in the direction of Palermo by the N. coast, to 3Ielazzo (27 31.), Patj (47 31.) and S. Agata (773|4 31.). —8. From Syracuse to Palazzolo (28 31.). The Sicilian miglia (see above) is the common .standard of distance, b'| some acquaintance with the distances in kilometres (1 k. = ^jg Engl. 31 on the post-routes is desirable: Palermo to Catania 259 k., Catania to 3Ie sina 91 k., Palermo to Finale 90 k., 3Iessina to S. Agata 113 k., Palern to 31arsala 131 k., Calatafimi to Castelvetrano 43 k., Palermo to Chiuf 77 k., Palermo to Girgenti 137 k., Girgenti to S. Caterina 93 k., Canicat to Licata 39 k., Catania to Caltagirone 73 k., Catania to Siracusa 76 k Siracusa to Vittoria 126 k., Siracu-sa to Buccheri 62 k. — Diligence-passenge pay 15 centesimi for each kilometre. The charges for posting are J follows; For 3 pers. the carriage is drawn by 3 honses, for 4—5 peH 4 horses ; for each horse 21 c. per kilom. are charged. The postillid receives 43 c. for each stage and 4 c. for each horse per kilom. For a lar;) carriage 14 c. per kilom. are paid, for a smaller vehicle 7 c. The distant accomplished daily is usually 40—45 migl. ^ so that, e. g., the route fro 3Iessina to Palermo would occupy 5 days. Accommodation in the diligenc cannot always be reckoned upon, as no supplementary carriages are provide Passengers for the longer distances have the preference, and those wl desire to avail themselves of the diligence at an intermediate station a never certain of obtaining a seat. This system encourages dishonesty < the part of the conductors, who frequently pretend seats are engaged, b assign them to the traveller for a consideration. The more modern vehicl are tolerable, the old extremely uncomfortable. A great advantage, howevt of diligence-travelling is that, when danger is apprehended, an escort carabineers is always provided. Postillion’s fee 5 soldi. The omnibus which compete with the diligences on the principal routes, the so-call-j “Periodica”, are still less inviting conveyances. 3Iules, on which about 30 31. a day can be accomplished, afford a other mode of locomotion. The tour from Palermo through the interi of the island, the so-called “giro” is most conveniently performed making an arrangement with a guide (vetturino) which shall include hoi expenses, fees and everything requisite for the journey. Giuseppe Aniell the commissionaire of the Trinacria at Palermo is generally considered tl best vetturino in the island. His inclusive charges are a.s tollow^: t 1 pers. w’ilh 2 mules 40 1. per diem, 2 pers. wuth 4 mules 60 1., 3 pe with 5 mules 801., 4 jiers. with 7 mules 901. Other good vettuHni c. be recommended by the landlord of the Trinacria at Palermo. This mo of travelling, although expensive, is convenient, if the prolonged riding dc not prove too fatiguing, but is gradually falling into disuse, as public mea of communication become better organized. 3Iules and guides may alS(» obtained for short excursions, especially if the traveller be aided by nati% of the island (letters of introduction desirable). The character of the 81 General Remarks. SICILY. 191 lians is polite and obliging: the traveller who is fortunate enough to obtain a recommendation to a merchant or proprietor in the interior will generally be supplied by him with introductions to his friends in other districts The charges for mules vary in different parts of the island, but the maxi- mum may be stated at 10 1. per diem, which should not be exceeded. The ^attendant expects a trifling additional fee. If a mule be engaged with a guide who is also^mounted, for a journey of several days, the entire charge idoes not exceed 7—10 1. per diem. In this case, however, if the traveller does not return to the point of starting, the return-journey must be paid for. Toll-dues 2 c. for each mule. The lettiga or litter, the lectica of the jRomans, is still employed on the S.W. coast, but is an uncomfortable and expensive means of conveyance and should be avoided except in cases of illness. Those who ride should previously stipulate for a good saddle (sella ,or sedda inglese), and not a “bisazza senza staffe”, i. e. a saddle without istirrups, such as the Sicilians use. On the conclusion of the bargain it is usual to give 2—5 1. as earnest-money (caparra) to the mulattiere, to be deducted from the final account. The public security in Sicily has suffered greatly since the events of 1860, but it is now hoped that the banditti who especially infest the provinces of Palermo and Girgenti are almost entirely exterminated. The provinces of Messina and Catania, including 3It. .ditna, are regarded as perfectly safe. The most hazardous locality is the environs of Palermo. The city itself was attacked in September, 1866, by a band of 2000 free- booters, who after a fierce struggle were expelled' by the troops. The following places are the most notorious harbours of brigands: Misilmeri Ogliastro, Villafrate, Vallelunga, Termini, Parco, 3Ionreale, Mezzojuso’ Piana dei Greci, Corleone, Castellamare near Palermo, and finally the mlphur district near Girgenti, especially Favara, Palma and Canicatti. During the day there is little ground for apprehension. Those who travel It night, and have the misfortune to be attacked, are recommended at mce to quit their vehicle and not to attempt to offer resistance. In this :ase no more serious consequences will ensue than the loss of money ind watch. The best seasons for travelling in Sicily are the months of April and ^lay or September and October. Even in January the weather is often fine ind settled. The ascent of .^tna in spring is possible, but the best period s August or September, after the first showers of autumn have cleared the itmosphere. The ascent is never absolutely impossible, but guides cannot ilways be procured. The Italian lire (francs) of 100 centesimi have been current in Sicily ince 1861. The lower classes, however, especially in the interior, still iinploy the old oncie, tari and grani : 1 oncia (Sicil. unza) = 12 1. 75 c. = *0 tari = 3 ducati di Napoli = 10 s. 2^12 d . ; 1 tari =r 20 grani = 10 bajocchi = 42 i| 2 cent. =4i|4cf. Besides Italian and French gold and silver the old Neapolitan piastres (piastra, pezzo) are still in use: 1 piastre = 12 tari = ' 1. 10 c. = 4 s. Icf. ; also ijg piastres, 2-tari and 1-tari pieces. The copper oinage on the decimal system is now alone current: 1 1. = 20 soldi. Besides he official metre the following standards of measurement are still employed : canna := 8 palme = 2,065 metres = 2^j.i j^ards. The palma is divided into 2 once^ 1 palma = 10 Engl, inches, approximately. The cantaro = 1()0 otoli = 176 lbs., is the usual standard of weight. The time required for a tour through the entire island of Sicily must ary greatly according to the season, the principal object in view and the esources of the traveller. The following is a sketch of the most impor- int routes. For Palermo the minimum is 3 days, to Alcarno 1, to Calata- mi (Segesta) 1, to Castelvetrano 1, (to Trapani 1, Monte San Giuliano and larsala 1, Castelvetrano 1), to Sciacca (Selinunto) 1, to Girgenti 1, at Gir- enti li| 2 , to Palma 1 ( 2 , to Terranova 1, to Modica (Val dTspica) 1, to ’alazzolo 1, to Syracuse 1, at Syracuse 2, to Catania 1, at Catania and scent of iF'.tna 3, to Taormina 1, to Messina 1, in Messina 1, to Melazzo L 192 SICILY. Geoyraphy and Stat'mtir.i. to Patti (Tyndari.s) 1, to S. Agata 1, to 8. Stefano 1, to (Jefalu 1, to Ter- iiiini 1, to Palermo 1 day. Thus the entire tour, performed on a muh would occupy 30—32 days, and embrace the complete circuit of the island, i. e., excluvsive of the indentations of the coast, about 535 M. For the saki of variety, however, the traveller will prefer to avail Inmself of other con- veyances when an opportunity oilers. From Ihilermo to Messina by land in 4—5 days, or direct by railway and steamboat in 18 hrs. ; thence (if the latter mode of performing the journey be selected) to Mela/'/o and Patti (Tyndaris) and back in 3 days, to Taormina 1, to Catania 1, Catania and 2 Etna 3, to Syracuse 1, at SVnieuse 2 days. P»y steamboat in 18 hrs. to Girgenti, where 1—2 days should be spent. Thence by diligence in 20 hrs. to Palermo, or on a mule in 2 days by Sciacca and Selinunto to Castel- vetrano. Then in 2 days by Calatalimi (Segesta), or, if Marsala and Tra- pani be included, in 4 days to Palermo by diligence or on a mule. A slight acquaintance with the interior may be obtained on a diligence journey of 20 hrs. from Palermo to Girgenti. Or a journey of 22 hrs. from Palermo to Castrogiovanni (Enna), thence either by the main road to Catania by Adernd, or in 1 day by Piaz/a (Lacus Pergusa) to Caltagirone and thence in 1 day to Catania by diligence. An approximately exhaustive tour cannot be accomplished in less than a month. The great majority of travellers proceed to Sicily via Naples. Steam- boats of the Messageries Imperiales, however, start from Marseilles for Mes- sina several limes weekly (on Saturday evenings regularly)*, to Palennoj direct every 10 days. From Genoa to Palermo one steamer weekly touching | at Leghorn only. From Nai)les to Messina and Palermo steamers almost daily. The best boats are the French (Mess. Imp.), which go to Messina] every Monday morning; of the others the larger vessels of the Peirano- 1 Danovaro Co. are preferable to those of the Florio. From Brindisi to Mes-j sina once weekly. Messina is in weekly correspondence with the East, also] with Malta. To Sardinia and Tunis from Palermo every fortnight. , Geography and Statistics. Sicily {Sicilia^ Sikelia^ Trinacria^ Triquetra in ancient times) is tliei largest island in the Mediterranean. Its area, according to the most recent measurements, amounts to 29,240 sq. kilometres, i. e. about 11,410 Engl, sq. M. The form of the island is an irregular triangle, the W. angle oi which is the promontory of Lihjhaeum^ or Capo di Boeo^ near Marsala, the N.E. angle the promontory of Pelorum {Capo del Faro') nearest the main- land, the S.E. angle the promontory of Pachynum {Capo Passaro). The N. coast is 200, the E. 135 and the S.W. 177 Engl. M. in length. The island is mountainous. Three different ranges must be distin-, guished. (1). The principal chain, a ramification from the Apennines, skirting the N. coast of the island, begins with the Faro di Messina at first runs parallel to the E. coast, the Montes Neptunii or Pelorian Mts. of antiquity. The highest point is the Dinnamari^ near Messina, 2906 ft.; other summits are the Scuderi near All, 2284 ft. and the Monte Venera near Taormina 2736 ft. From the Pizzo di Bonavi^ not far from the latter, the range turns to the W. and now hears the name of Nebrode. Diodorus Si- culus also calls them the Hersean Mts. The highest point of this portion of the chain is the Pizzo di Palermo (5930 ft.), S. of Cefalu. Here they are sometimes termed i\\Q, Madonian Mts. Farther on, to the W. of Termini, the watershed which the range has thus far formed between the Atrican and Ionian seas is interrupted and the mountains become detached and isolatcl. The liighest i)oint here is the Monte Cuccio., W. of Palermo (3225 ft.). Those most rcmarka])le on account of their situation and form are the Monte S. ('ato{K‘7'o near Termini (2500 ft.), the Mottle Pellegrino near Palermo (1400 ft- Geography and Statistics. SICILY. 193 and the Monte S. Giuliano near Trapani (2040 ft.). — (2). The plateaus of the S.E. angle {Heraean Mts.., of which Monte Rosso near Palaz/olo is the highest sunnnit, 2610 ft.) and the S. coast, consisting of primary and fossili- Terous limestone. This district contains the sulphur mines of the island, Mdiich are comprised ^yitilin_ a space bounded by the African sea, on the S.W., the road from Girgenti to Lercara on the W., and by that from Ler- jCara to Centorbi (and a line drawn thence to the E. coast) on the N. — 1(3). Mt. jEtna., the most recent formation, rises to a height of 10,171 ft., land is completely detached from the other mountains by the vallevs of the Cantara and Simeto. I The island contains no plains of any extent. To the S. of Catania lextends the most considerable, the Piano di Catania (^Ager Leontinus, Campt Laestrygonii) between the rivers Simeto and Gurnalunga. The plains of the iCoast, of Terranova {Campi Geloi) , Licata and Melazzo , on which Apollo’s 'flocks were pastured (Odyss. XII.), may also be mentioned. The island suffers greatly from want of water in consequence of the removal of the ancient forests. The greater number of the rivers are im- petuous and destructive torrents in winter, frequently rendering the roads impassable, whilst in summer they are generally dry. The beds thus formed iare termed fiumara^ Sicil. ciumdra. The principaC rivers, which are crossed by boats, are the Giarretta., formed by the union of the Simeto and Gur~ nalunga^ the Flume Salso {Himera meridionalis') near Licata, the Fiume Platani^ to the W. of Girgenti, and the Fiume Belici., between Sciacca and Casteivetrano. The Cantara is crossed by a bridge. The completion of the road on the X. coast from Palermo to Messina is only retarded by the innumerable bridges which must necessarily be constructed. In consequence of the want of water, which is sold in the neighbour- hood of the towns and in the gardens in jets of the thickness of a quill, the once luxuriant fertility of the island has greatly decreased. The wheat, which with barley and beans is almost exclusively cultivated here, yields Dn an average a seven-fold return. It is largely exported on account of ihe excellence of the quality, and an inferior description imported for home consumption. The quantity produced has, however, been considerably iiininished by the conversion of much of the arable land into cotton plan- ations. The peculiar farm-tenure, inferior agricultural implements and occasional deficiency of hands, which is supplied in many parts by peasants from Calabria, are also unfavourable to the agricultural prosperity of the country. The fields, like those in Sardinia and X. Africa, are enclosed by oactus-hedges, which frequently attain a considerable height. Their fruit, fie cactus-fig, of a sweetish, somewhat insipid taste, is much esteemed by he natives. The export of cotton, sumach and linseed forms an important oranch of commerce. Other products exported are: Oranges, lemons, citrons f6eir essential oils, almonds, olive oil, wine (Marsala, Riposso, Catania, Cittoria,^ Siracusa), nuts, capers, soda, pistachios, manna, liquorice, lentils ind raisins. Animal products : silk, hides, wool, anchovies, tunny-fish and jantharides. Mineral products: sulphur, salt and marble. The island pos- sesses no mines of the precious metals or of coal. A large proportion of he merchants are now Germans, whilst during the last century they were , ilniost exclusively English. About 2 | 3 i.(ts of the manufactured goods im- ported into Sicily, as well as Italy, pass through the hands of Swiss and German merchants. The statistics with ‘respect to the exports and imports ire untrustworthy, but it is ascertained that the former are far more con- iderable than the latter. This will be still more the case as agriculture dvances in consequence of the secularisation of monasteries, the dis- uemberment of the vast landed estates and the i)romotion of the mblic safety. Mineral Baths, most of them sulphureous, and celebrated in an- ient times, are established at Sciacca on the Monte S. Calogero (Thermaa Jelinuntinse), at Termini (Ther. Himerenses), at Termini near Barcellona nd at Ali near Messina. The bath-arrangements are very defective, those -t the two Termini are the best. Baedekek. Italy III. 2d. Edition. 13 194 SICILY. HiitoricaL Notice. The Population of the islaml according to the extremely inaccurate! census of Jan. 1st, 1862, amounts to 2,391,802, i. e. on an average 206 on 1 Engl. sq. M. Out of 1000 inhah. about to only can read and write, 10] read and write imperfectly and 902 are totally uneducated (1864). National schools are now, however, everywhere established and the towns possess] commercial (scuola tecnica) and grammar schools. Palermo, Catania and Messina even boast of universities, but the two latter are ver\- insignificant. Public libraries (in addition to those of the universities) are established at, Palermo (two), Trapani and Syracuse. The institution and endowment of! national libraries has been commenced in several other places, e. g. at| Termini. Monastic libraries of considerable extent are to be found at Catania (S. Niccolb), San Martino near Palermo and Messina (Sab vatore dei Greci). ‘•Talermo, "'Syracuse, Catania any Gekrn 'after the battle of Himera in 480. Phormis., an officer of Gelon at Syracuse, who invented moveable scenes, Ppicharmus in 480, Sojdtron in 460 and Xenarchus in 460 were distinguished in the composition of come- <]ies. Nothing is more characteristic of the Sicilian enthusiasm for art than the story that the Syracusans once set several Athenian prisoners, who were languishing in the latomice (or quarries in which captives were condemned to laljour), at liberty, because they knew how to recite the verses of Euri- pides with pathos. Even during the decline of the Greek i)rosperity in Si- cily the national ijoetical bias was still pre-eminent, and at this period gave birth to a new description of poetry, the idyls, in which their inventor Theocritus of Syracuse was unsurpassed , and which even in modern times have found numerous admirers. The Sicilians have never manifested much capacity for philosophical research, although not entirely without taste for studies of this nature. Py- thagoras found tollowers here. Xenophanes of Elea, whose philosophy con- tributed so greatly to the development of the idea of a Supreme Being among the Greeks , died in Syracuse at an advanced age. Plato thrice vi- sited Syracuse. But the most illustrious thinker who was a native of Sicily was Empedocles of Acragas, distinguished as a natural philosopher, and also as a pi’actical statesman , jdiysician , architect and orator. The names of a number of celebrated physicians are recorded : Pausanias., Acron., Herodicus. Menecraies. The distinguished Celsus was also a Sicilian, born at Centuripse. Eminent historians were: Antiochus., Philistus of Syracuse, Timaeus of Taor- mina, Dicaearchus of 3Iessana and the learned Diodorus (Siculus) of Agy- rium. who wrote his celebrated Bibliotheca Historica in the reign of Augustus. The most brilliant of the numerous orators were Corax and Thisias., teacher of Isocrates, Gorgias and Lysias (Gorgias, the celebrated Greek sophist and ^•rator, was a native of Leontinoi , and Lysias was the son of a Syracusan). Among the mathematicians and mechanicians Archimedes was the most dis- tinguished. Nicetas of Syracuse was the first who taught that the earth moved and the sun remained stationary. Of theoretical musicians Aristoxenus \ of Selinus, the inventor of the anaptestic rythm, deserves mention. The Roman-Byzantine supremacy gave the death-blow to the intellec- tual activity of the Sicilians. The soldier who slew Archimedes may be ' regarded as symbolical of this epoch. No architectural remains, save a few amphitheatres, theatres and aqueducts, date from this period. The rapacity of Verres and other governors despoiled the island of innumerable treasures j of art. New works were not undertaken. The Christians possessed no churches but employed the catacombs for sacred purposes. A single Byzan- tine church of small dimensions near Malvagna alone remains from thi&t period. A proed' of the abject condition to which Sicily had sunk is the ! circumstance that down to a late period of the Musselman supremacy not a single author of eminence arose, although innumerable monks and priests!! resided in the island. Theophanes Cerameus (842) and Petrus Siculus the j historian of the Maniclueans , alone deserve mention. The wandering San \ Simeon of Syracuse died at Treves. | The Mohammedans were the first to infuse new life into the island, j They enriched the architectio’al art with new forms of construction and de- coration (pointed arch) , and although no perfect specimens of their works are jireserved (the (hiha, Zisa etc. were altered during the Norman period), yet the inlluence they e.xercised on mediaeval architecture is still distinctly! recognised. The Arabians also inaugurated a new era in history and geo- grajihy, anfl )jndcr king Ruggiero the first mediaeval geographer A’rf/’/s/ com- pleted his great work (Nushat-ul-Muschtak). Among the 3Iohammedan Ka- sides tfioets) Ibn-Ilamdis was the most conspicuous. .4rt developed itself to History of Art. SICILY. 201 ii still greater extent under tlie Norman rule; and, although Henry VI. des- poiled the island of many treasures (e. g. the German imperial robes now at Vienna) , his son Frederick II. rendered ample compensation. The Isor- ■inan princes and their illustrious partizans have immortalized their memory ;!by such monuments as the cathedrals of Cefalu (best mosaics) , Palermo, Jfessina, Monreale, Catania, S. Maria dell’ Ammiraglio (Martorana), the Cap- ■jpella Palatina at Palermo etc. The importance they attached to learning is proved by the fact that they were in the habit of summoning the most eru- ildite men of the East (e. g. Petrus Blesensis) to instruct their young prin- Ices. Whilst the Arabians deserve commendation for the introduction of the best commercial products (grain , cotton, sumach etc.) which the island [possesses , the Norman princes established the manufacture of silk , and a School for the arts of weaving and the composition of mosaic v^as maintai- ned in the royal palace. The brilliant reign of Frederick II., his legislative merits and his zealous promotion of every art and science are well known. At his court at Palermo the Italian language developed itself so as to be- come a written language, and his counsellors, his sons and even he himself made the first attempts at Italian poetry. Of Frederick II.., Manfred., Enzius^ CHullo of Alcamo , Peter de Vineis , Guido delle Colonne., Stefano., Mazeo da Riccho of Messina, Rainieri of Palermo , Arrigo Testa of Lentini etc. poems are still preserved to us. But this golden age was of brief duration. Amid •he vicissitudes of subsequent centuries all intellectual superiority became extinct. Even the chroniclers manifest distinct traces of this degeneracy. Whilst well written and interesting chronicles of Sicily v^ere composed in the 13th cent. {Hugo Falcando., Neocastro etc.), those of a later period are almost unreadable. The revival of classical studies, however, infused new life into the inert condition of literature. At the close of the 15th cent. Messina distinguished itself by its promotion of Greek studies. Here Con- Uantine Lascaris taught and Bessarion was archimandrite. The following century produced the learned and indefatigable Thomas Fazello of Sciacca "'d. 1570) , the originator of Sicilian history and topography. His work was completed by the polyhistor Maurolycus of Messina. At the same time the fine arts had revived in Sicily. Until recently, Although without sufficient foundation , it was asserted that Italy was in- Iclebted for the introduction of oil-painting exclusively to Antonello of Mes- sina., born in 1442 (works by him at Messina and Palermo; not to be con- founded with other artists of the same name). Girolamo Alibrandi, a youn- ger contemporary of his, has been surnamed the “Raphael of Messina”. Polidoro Gaidar a , surnamed da Caravaggio , murdered by his pupil Tonno^ was also an artist of Messina. But the most distinguished painter of Sicily -was Pietro Novello of Monreale, thence surnamed Morrealese, numerous works by whom are preserved in Palermo and its environs. He perished in the revolution of 1649. Among the sculptors Antonio Gagini (d. 1571), a pupil jf Michael Angelo, enjoys the highest reputation. Every church which con- tains one of the numerous works of this artist, who excels in drapery only, imagines itself in possession of an invaluable treasure. It is, however, pro- ‘ bable that Gagini was a native of Carrara and not of Messina or Palermo. Works by Giovanni Angelo Poggibonzo , surnamed Montorsoli ^ another pupil of Michael Angelo, are also preserved at Messina. The enlightened absolutism of the Bourbons during the last century ended to promote the progress of scientific activity in Sicily , which how- 3ver was principally directed to archaeological research with respect to the listory of the island. The wealthier of the nobility formed collections of intiquities and wrote descriptions of them {Biscari., Torremuzza., Astuto, Ju- Mca., Airoldi ., Gaetani etc.). The clergy collected materials for the history )f Sicily and others composed detailed monographs on the subject. The superficial polyhistor Mongitore had been preceded by the eminent Antonino \ la Amico^ Py,occo Pirro., Agostino Inveges and Giovanni Battista Caruso, and, I vhilst still engaged in study, died suddenly in 1743, at the advanced age j )f 80. Di Giovanni, Francesco Testa, Rosario Gregorio and the brothers Gio- 202 lioute 18. PAOLA. From IS'aples vanni Evangelista and Ealvatoro di Jilasi form a series of historians of tlie last century who whould have done credit to any nation. The art of poetry also revived and found its most talented representative in the poet of na- ture Giovanni Meii of Palermo (d. 1815). His anacreontic songs in the na- tional dialect were universally popular even before they appeared in a prin- ted form. Among the most distinguished scientilic men of the present cen- tury may be mentioned the naturalist and literary historian Domenico Scind, the astronomer Piazzi (born, however, in the Val Tellina in N. Italy), the brothers Gemarello , the i)atriotic historian Giuseppe Lafarina etc. , whilst at the present day the island boasts of many eminent savants. In the history of music modern Sicily occupies a less distinguished po- sition than in the other arts. Bellini., however (b. at Catania 1^2, d. near Paris 1835) , is justly admired for the beauty and sweetness of his melody. Lablache and Pasta were also Sicilians, natives of Palermo. For the study of the history of the island and the dialect , which is characterized by the frequent elision of consonants, transposition of letters and incessant use of the half mute v«)wels o and m, the following works may be recommended: Giuseppe Biundi , Dizionario Siciliano-Italiano *, Pa- lermo, 1847 , 4 vols. — Lionardo Vigo , Canti popolari Sicilian! \ Catania, 1857. — Alessio Narbone, Bibliografia Sicola; Palermo 1850 ^ 4 vols 8vo (a collection and description of all the works on Sicily , to which the author has obtained access^ invaluable to the student). — The best compendium of^ the history of Sicily: Pietro San Filippo, Compendio della Storia di Sicilia; i Palermo 1859; 7th edit. — The best detailed work: Giovanni Evang. di Blasi, Storia del Regno di Sicilia; Palermo, 1844 ; 3 thick 8vo vols. — Vito Amico, Dizionario topografico della Sicilia, tradotto da Gioacchino di Marzo ; Palermo , 1855 ; 2 vols. 8vo. — Among works of a special character may be mentioned: Serradifalco , Antichita di Sicilia, 5 vols. fol. ; H. G. Knight, Saracenic and Korman Remains in Sicily ; Hittorf et Zanth , Architecture moderne de la Sicile. — A magnificent work on the cathedral of Monreale by the Abbot Gravina, with coloured plates, is now being published at Pa- lermo. — Among others are those of M. Amaris on the Sicilian Vespers and the Musselman supremacy , Isidore La Lumias on the reign of Charles V. and the revolution of 1649 and 1860, Sartorius v. Waltershausen on .(Etna (a magnificent work in German), Palmieri on the Constitution of 1812.1 18. From Naples to Sicily. A, To Messina. Departure of the steamers, see p. 33 ; offices p. 33. For the embarcation | of each person with luggage 1 1. (comp. Introd. VII). Direct passage in 20—22 hrs., fares excl. food 34i|2 or TP\o 1. It has already (p. 33) been ob- served that the Italian mail-steamers touch alternately at the principal pla- ces on the coast ; those to Messina stop at Paola (p. 203), Pizzo (p. 204) and Reggio (p. 187) , which affords a pleasant variety, especially as the vessels generally skirt the coast; but the time occupied is about ijard more. The I boats of the Messageries Imperiales (p. 33) go direct only. ^ On the direct passage , as on that to Palermo (p. 204) , the vessels usu- 1 ally pass on the W. side of Capri ; on the indirect, to the E. of Capri, bet- 1 ween that island and the promontory of Sorrento, where an exquisite survey i of the bays of Nai)les and Salerno is enjoyed. j The Italian steamboats weigh anchor in the evening (between | 8 and 9 p. m.) and at once proceed in a S. direction. The is- lands of Ischia and Procida remain to the W. (comp, entrance of the bay, p, 27). In 2^2 itrs. , after Castellamare and Sorrento to Sicily. PAOLA. 18. Route. 203 :e passed , the strait between Capri with the rugged and pre- pitous Lo Capo (p. 143) and the Punta di Campanella (p. 141) ' entered. Shortly afterwards a view of the Bay of Salerno is isclosed. As the sun sets and the vessel gradually stands out sea, the aspect of Mt. Vesuvius is indescribably majestic, 'uring the night the promontories della Licosa and dello Sparti- mto and the Bay of Policastro are passed. The town bearing le latter name, once powerful, was taken by Robert Guiscard in !()55, destroyed by the Turks in 1542, and now does not contain oove 400 inhab. On the following morning, about 8 a. m. , Monte Polino r434 ft.), which terminates the Neapolitan Apennines, is espe- ally conspicuous. Contiguous to it the Calabrian Mts. com- lence. From this point S. towards Paola a succession of tine lews is enjoyed. The coast is studded with numerous towns nd villages, most of them situated on the heights, between hich valleys descend to empty their brooks into the sea. About a. m. Verbicaro is seen somewhat inland, then (9. 30) Dia- lante , at the base of a lofty cliff. Farther on , Belvedere with 000 inhab. , charmingly situated on the slopes of the mountain, 'hen. after a small promontory is passed, in the bay to the S. es Cetraro, the inhabitants (5800) of which gain their livelihood rincipally by the anchovy - fishery. About 10 a. m. Guardia^ ing on a lofty mountain, with warm baths and 4000 inhab., aen the more important town of Fuscaldo , with 9000 inhab. nd the ruins of an old castle. (12 o’cl.) Paola (7000 inhab.), beautifully situated in a ravine nd rising on the slope of the mountain; extensive oil and wine :ade. If the vessel stops here a scene of the utmost animation 5 witnessed, and inhabitants come on board bringing all kinds of rticles for sale. In summer ices of the most inferior description re offered (2 soldi, though 4 — 6 are demanded at first). Paola, believed by some to be the Palycus of the Greeks, vas the birthplace of Francesco di Paola, founder of the monastic rder of Minimes, the members of which abstain from animal food md gain their subsistence by mendicancy. At the beginning of he present century this order possessed upwards of 450 monas- eries, numbering 25,000 friars, but the greater number of these ave since been suppressed. After a halt of about 1^/2 hr. the vessel proceeds on her ourse. On the coast the villages of San Lucido (2 p. m.j, ^iumefreddo and Belmonte , in the rear of which the conspicuous \Ionte Cocuzzo (4928 ft.). Amantea next becomes visible, sup- 1 >osed to be the ancient Amantia of Bruttium. The town and I'ortress , erected on a lofty rock, were in 1806 garrisoned by 204 Route IS. TllOPEA. royalists , who repelled the attacks of the French troops ; but iij the following year, after severe sufferings from famine, they werd compelled to surrender. To the 8. of Amantea the Savuto fall^ into the sea. The coast becomes flat and less richly cultivated .1 (12. 45) Nocera, then by the Capo Suvero to the Golfo di Santo] Eufemia^ at the 8. extremity of which lies (5. 45) Pizzo (p. 185), founded on a rock of sandstone (halt about VI 2 hr.). Projecting into the sea below the town are the| ruins of the ancient castle in which, Oct. 13th, 1815, JoachhnI Murat, ex -king of Naples was shot, having been compelled to! land here instead of at 8alerno as he had intended. He was| interred in the church of Pizzo. j At the 8. E. angle of the bay lies Monteleone., see p. 185. The steamboat rounds Capo Zambrone. (8 p. m.) Tropea. an ancient episcopal town in a delightful situation , the climate of which is much extolled. To the 8. the Capo Vaticano with its lighthouse projects far into the sea. In the bay lies Nicotera. which suffered greatly by the earthquake (p. 186) of 1783 , neai the influx of the Mesima. [At Gioja (p. 185) the post-road from Naples to Reggio (p. 187) leads to the coast which it skirts du- ring the remainder of the route (comp. p. 186)]. Soon after the harbour of Pizzo is quitted the Lipari Islands (R. 37) become visible to the W. ; Strombolij with its continually smoking crater^ is the most conspicuous. Off Capo Vaticano the 8icilian moun- tains suddenly appear. Palmi, Bagnara and Scilia ^ see p. 186. The Aspromonte Mts. with the Monte Alto (6300) do not present a very pictures- que appearance from this side. The Strait of Messina is now entered, during the day a most animated scene. The vessel first steers for Reggio (p. 187) and finally, about 4. 30 a. m. , aftei a voyage of about 38 hrs. , enters the harbour of Messina. Arrival and hotels, see R. 30. Those who arrive during the night will do well to remain on board till the morning, first in- quiring of the captain the hour when the vessel again quits the harbour. R. To Palermo. Tlic traveller whose destination is Palermo will probably prefer to avoid the above circuitous route by Paola, Pizzo, Reggio and Messina and to avail liimself of the vessels of the Florio Co. (office at Naples, Str. Piliero 5), which start for Palermo 3 times weekly, usually at 8 p. m. : passage 16 — 20 hrs. ; fares 34q2 or 22*12 1. Embarcation 1 1. for each pers. with luggage (com]). Introd. VII.). Delightful view as the vessel approaches Sicily, wliich the traveller should rise at an early hour to witness. Departure from the bay, see pp. 27, 202. After the vessel has passed Procida, Ischia and Capri, the Ponza Islands (p. 22) PALERMO. 19. Route. 205 ■come visible to the N. ; beautiful retrospect of the bay and 3 suvius. Early on the following morning (between 5 and 6 a. m.) e Lipari Islands (R. 37) are seen to the S. (1.); later the is- iid of LJstica (p. 219) to the W. , long remaining visible; then, out 10 a. m. , the towering mountains of Sicily, to the r. onte Pellegrino (p. 216), 1. Monte Catalfano^ guarding the en- ince to the Bay of Palermo. Finally the widely extended city ith its amphitheatre of mountains which enclose the fruitful ain, Conca d^Oro^^ (the golden shell). Somewhat to the 1. Monte Pellegrino rises the lofty Monte Cuccio , then Monreale . 214); farther off, Monte Grifone, and still more distant, to e extreme 1. , Monte Catalfano with the promontories of (r.) ongerbino and (1.) Zaffarana. 19. Palermo. Arrival. Travellers are conveyed to the Dogana (1 1. for each pers.), lere luggage is superficially examined. Thence to the town 3|4 M.; fiacre 3 below. Hotels. *Trinacria (PI. a) {Ragusa., attentive landlord) in the Strada itera, near the harbour , the best hotel in Sicily R. facing the Marina on e 1st — 3rd floor 5, 4th 4, 5th 2i|2 !• ; drawing-room 6—10 1.; dejeuner a fourchette 2i|2, coffee etc. Uj 2 , D. 4, served in the traveller’s apartment ^ A. 75 c., L. 75 c., a lamp 2 1.; Pension 10 1. — H 6 tel de Fra n ce 1. b), by the new and beautiful Giardino Garibaldi , Piazza Marina (PI. 5), facing the S. , in winter warmer than the Trinacria; accommodation od, charges somewhat lower than at the Trinacria, attendance insufficient. Of humbler pretension: *Albergo dell’ Universe (or Alb. Cenirale), the Toledo, No. 355, R. 2 , A. ^2, saloon looking towards the Corso 4 1. 5 Ibergodi Sicilia, Via Pizzuto, commonly called “il Pizzuto”, near e Piazza Domenico ^ Albergo di Londra, near the Chiesa del Molo d the brewery. Casa Mobigliata, Piazza Oliva 72, outside the Porta icqueda, near the Giardino Inglese , R. 2 , B. 1, D. 3, A. ^l2 , ^.Iso a nsion. — Furnished apartments cannot easily be procured. — '"Villa di 3 m a , a restaurant to the r. in the Toledo, before the Quattro Cantoni is ached. — CafeOreto, at the corner of the Piazza Marina and the To- io, the best. — The Casino Nuovo, or new club, in the Palazzo •race in the Toledo , contains handsome ajaartments , worthy of a visit ^ ■angers may easily obtain an introduction for a week , for a longer period ey should apply for a card of admission (10 1. per month). Carriages: fares fixed by tariff, of which a copy should be in each hide. One-horse carr. for 1—4 pers. per drive within the city 50 c. ; in e suburbs , inch the harbour and railway-station , 75 c. ; for one box 20, o 30 c. For 1 hr. 1 1. 80, each consecutive hr. 1 1. 60 c. After midnight these charges are raised by one-half. Two-horse carr. per drive within e city 1 1. Driving in the town is prohibited on Good Friday. To Mon- ale according to previous bargain , usually 10 1. for a carr. with two hor- ?, if la Zisa, Olivuzza etc. be visited in returning; one-horse 6 1. ()ui- ppe Policino, Via Carasello (comp. p. 212), is recommended as a vetturino. )nkeys at the back of the University; to S. Martino returning by Bocca- falco and Monreale 2i|2 h ; to Blonte Pellegrino 2 1.; if the donkey be *sent r at the hotel the attendant demands 2 1. in addition. — Valet de ace 5 1. per day. 206 Route 19. PALEllMO. Situation. Post-office (PI. 88) adjoining (lie Martorana (S. Maria etters arc conveyed to and from the mainland four times weekly. Tti poste-restantc office for strangers is a separate department. The diligcno<| to the interior start hence. The Periodica (omnilms) starts from the Vi la/zo Sambucco, near the Convento della Gangia , Str. Alloro (not to he iH commended). Steamboats: to Naples 3 times weekly; to Leghorn every Friday in ; hrs. ; on Tuesdays a vessel of the Messageries Imperiales direct to Marseilh! in 50 hrs. ; to Messina 3 times weekly (once by Cefaln) ; to Syracuse by Tri pani and Girgenti once weekly; to Cagliari fortnightly. | Photographs: Sack, under Santo Spirito, near the Porta Felice; L Forte, Via di Bosco 23, Pal. Belvedere, of whom idiotographs of the mn interesting objects in the Museum may be purchased. Books: P'ratelli P-, done Lauricl , on the r. side of the Toledo. Old hooks: Giovanni Fioren/. in the Toledo. Bankers: Kayser 60, especially towards the S.W. It is divided into 6 sections ; the 4 former visions were termed Rioni. With the exception of the Catacombs , outside the Porta Ossuna (to the r. of the P. Nuova, discovered in 1785), no icient architectural remains are now in existence. Access ob- ined on application to the Commissione delle Antichita (Antico bllegio de’ Gesuiti, PL 79). For this want the interesting ediaeval monuments and the museum amply compensate. I We commence at the Porta Nuova at the E. end of the i wn. 2()8 lioute 19. PALf:UMO. Pdldzzo lieale. The * Palazzo Reale (FI. 87) rises on a slight eminence which has in all ages been the site of the castle of the city Its foundation is of Saracen origin; Uobert Giiiscard, king Roger, the two Williams, Frederick II. and Manfred added to the struc- ture, not to speak of subsequent alterations. When approached from the Toledo , the extreme door to th' 1 . leads to the palace-court. Here to the r. , on the first floor, is situated the celebrated *Cappella Palatina, erected by UoH ger IX. in 1132 and dedicated to St. Peter, accounted the mos: beautiful castle-chapel in the world, and a most magnificent spe cimeii of medii specimen of which is at Cefalii. The dome, rising bSh'i ft. above th| mosaic pavement, is perforated by 8 narrow windows and bears Greek an : Latin inscriptions. The characters on the other portion of the ceiling ai j Cufic or ancient Arabian. An ambo or reading-desk on the r., and a marblj candlestick, 14 ft. in height, also deserve inspection. The Gothic choiij stalls are modern. The tower of S. Ninfa, containing the observatory, is coni sidered to be the most ancient portion of the castle (accessibl g — 3 o’clock; ascent from the court by the stair opposite the eiu trance; then by a passage to the 1 . beneath the arcades of th| 3 rd floor, and another ascent by a stair on the r. ; custodiaj V2-1 1 -)- Magnificent ^panorama from the summit : at the feet of the spectate lies the Piazza Vittoria , above the 1. angle of which rises S. Rosalia ; i front of the latter the Pal. Vescovile; r. the Toledo, to^ the 1. beyond it tli harbour, commanded on the 1. by the 3Ionte Pellegrino 5 1. in the bad ground the mountains of the Capo Gallo; beneath them, in the foregrount the Porta Nuova, where Garibaldi once resided; 1., farther distant. La Zisi a yellow building with numerous windows ; farther 1 . in the backgroun the pointed Monte Cuccio, prolonged on the 1. by the hill of Monreale. Fa ther L, at the spectator’s feet, the Giardino Reale, above it the Piazza del Indipendenza with the obelisks. In the foreground S.E. the tower of tl red church of S. Giovanni degli Eremiti, beyond it the cypress-grove of tl Campo Santo ; in the distance, at the base of the lofty M. Grifibne, lies Maria di Gesii ; more to the 1., M. Catalfano, abutting on the sea; on tl promontory, to the r. of the latter, Bagaria. Resides the Cappella Palatina the palace contains the so-calle Stanza di Ruggiero witli interesting mosaics ; also an apartmei with portraits of the viceroys. Cattedrale. PALERMO. 19. Route. 209 In the vicinity, in the rear of the Piazza della Vittoria , or )alace-yard, where a Statue of Philip IV. stands, and separated Tom the palace by the street leading to the Porta di Castro , is litusited the church of *S. Giovanni degli Eremiti (PI. 32) (ge- lerally closed; entrance Yia de’ Benedittini 36, fee (O — ^ 1-)’ )ne of the earliest Norman ecclesiastical structures , which still oresents an almost entirely oriental aspect. The church is con- itructed in the form of a so-called Egyptian cross (T), with ^ apses, a large and 4 smaller domes. Adjacent to the church, ;he bell of which was the first to ring the alarm on the occasion )f the massacre known as the Sicilian Vespers , are small , but nteresting cloisters, in a dilapidated condition. Opposite the palace stands the Spedale Grande (PI. 93), greeted within the space of one year by Count Matteo Sclafani n 1330, purchased by the city in 1440 for the sum of 150 on- iie (!), now a barrack. The arcades of the court are decorated r.) by a large fresco of the 15th cent, by Antonio Crescenzio, .he ‘Triumph of Death^( in a style resembling the Florentine. Michael Angelo is said to have conceived his design for the well- tnown painting in the Sixtine Chapel at Rome from an old fresco vhich was formerly here (?). “Paradise’’, another large fresco by Pietro Novelli, 1634, is much damaged. The N. W. corner of the Piazza is occupied by the Archi- vpiscopal Palace (PI. 84) ; the facade towards the Piazza del Ouomo in its present form dates from the 16th cent. The tower, jonnected with the cathedral by a graceful arch, was erected in ;he 12th cent. Here the chancellor Stephen of Percha sought •efuge when pursued by the populace of Palermo, to whom he vas eventually compelled to surrender. To the r. in the Strada Toledo, and separated from it by the Piazza del Duomo stands the * Cattedrale, il Dudmo della S. Ro- salia (PI. 15; generally closed 12 — 4 o’clock), a remarkable edi- ice in which restorations to its disadvantage have been under- aken in each century since its foundation. It was erected in 1169 — 1185 on the site of a more ancient church which had been ■onverted into a mosque and subsequently reconverted into a Christian place of worship by the archbishop Walter of the Mill Gualterio Offamilio). The crypts, a portion of the S. side and he E. end are the only remaining portions of this structure. The chapel of S. Maria I’lncoronata, a remnant of the most an- ient cathedral, in which the Sicilian monarchs were wont to be jrowned, was destroyed by the bombardment of 1860. The 5. portal is an approximation to the N. Gothic style. The W. I Parade, with the principal portal and the two towers, was erected j n 1300 — 1359, and the whole disfigured in 1781 — 1801 by a I Baedeker. Italy III. 2d. Edition. 14 210 liouit If). PAI.EKMO. Mnriorund. floine constructed by tlie Neapolitan architect Fernando Fuga not- withstanding the remonstrances of the .Sicilian architects. The restoration of the interior was undertaken by the same indi- vidual. I'he r. aisle (1. of the S. Portal) contains llie Tombs of the Kimjs. Here, in .sarcoi>liap ol i>orphyry. .surmounted ]»y canoi)ies, repo.se : King Roger (d. 1154); his daughter Con.stance. wife of Henry VI. (d 1198); lii.s son-in- law Henry VI. (d. 1197). and hi.s illustrious gramtson Frederick II. (d. V2b0). The sarcophagus of the latter, sui)ported hy 4 lions, is the finest. On the wall above the.se monuments are recorded the privileges granted to the city by Frederick, inlaid in marble. In 1781 the sarcophagi were transferred hither from a chapel contiguous to the choir and opened. The remains of Henry VI. and Constance were greatly decomposed, Mdiilst those of Fre- derick 11. were in a good state of preservation. With the latter the remains of two other bodies were found, one unknown, the other probably that of Peter 11. ot Arragon. The corpse of the great emperor was enveloped in sumptuous robes with Arabian inscriptions; beside him lay the crown and imperial apple, at his side a sword. The sacristy contains the imperial crowms and remains of robes , to which access cannot always be obtained (10 a. m. the best hour, application may be made to one of the facchini of the church). The marble sculptures of the church are chietly hy Anlonio Gagini^ the linest of which are those on the pilasters of the Chapel of Si. Rosalia., to the r. of the high-altar. Here the saint reposes in a sarcophagus of silver, 1300 lbs. in weight, exhibited only on .Jan. 11th, .July 15th and Sept. 4th. The choir, which possesses fine old carved stalls, is separated from the church by a marble screen. The statues in the niches, Christ and the Apostles, are by Gag ini. The crypt beneath the choir, containing the remains of the archbishops, some of them in ancient sarcophagi, should also be visited. Here, among others, repose Gualterio OfFamilio, and the archbishops Frederick and Peter of Antioch of Ilohenstaufen extraction. Proceeding hence by the Str. Toledo towards the sea, the traveller passes (1.) the Collegio Nuovo (PI. 79) of the Jesuits, which now contains the National Library (open the whole day) and the Lyceum^ and reaches (r.) the small Piazza Bologniy adorned with a Statue of Charles V. by Scipione Livolsi da Susa. I To the W. stands the Palazzo Villafranca. Continuing to descend, the traveller reaches the Quattro Can- ' toni (p. 206) and, passing the richly decorated church of S. Giu- . ■icppe (lei Teatini , proceeds (to the r.) towards the E. by the f Corso Garihaldiy in order to arrive at one of the most interesting i quarters of the town. To the 1. is the Piazza Pretoria with a large Fountain erected in the 16th cent, by order of the viceroy i Garcia di Toledo , the Palazzo del Municipio (PI. 86) and the [ mansion of the Duca di Serradifalco. A few paces farther the \ Post-office (PI. 88) is reached, within the precincts of which is situated the deserted church of S. Cataldo, a remarkable sample of Sicilian-Norman architecture, probably erected previous to 1 161 by Count Sylvester, the grandson of Duke Roger I. Adjacent to the post - office buildings stands the celebrated church of S. Maria deli Aimniraglio y commonly calleci *La Martorana (PI. fiJ), Mu'itum. PALEHMO. If). Route. 2 I I erected by Georgios Anticxdieiiii.s, grand- admiral of Roger I. and Jtoger II., in honour of the Virgin during the first half of the 12th cent , as the well-preserved mosaic of the Madonna in the first chapel to the 1. of the entrance shows. The church was originally quadrangular with 3 apses towards the N. and a dome ; borne by 4 columns, entirely Byzantine in character, adorned on the in- and exterior with mosaics. In 1590 the nuns of the convent Martorana (founded in 1193 and in 1433 presented with the ' church , whence the name) caused the edifice to be extended ' towards the W. In 1685 the central apse was demolished and superseded by a square chapel and in 1726 the work of de- struction was carried still farther by the removal of the mosaics from the walls. Of the 8 Corinthian columns the first r. bears Arabic inscriptions. To the r. a representation in mosaic : King ! Roger crowned by Christ. The original mosaics in the apses , on the r. and 1. and those in the dome are furnished with Greek inscriptions. The two upper stories of the four-storied campanile date from the 14th cent. In 1726 the dome was removed in consequence of the damage done by an earthquake. To the r. in the Corso Garibaldi, opposite the post-office, stands the University (PI. 99), containing the * Museum (open daily 9 — 3 o’clock , closed on Sundays and from Wednesday in Passion Week till Easter Tuesday inclusive). In the court, opposite the entrance , is the collection of sculptures ; on the first floor the picture-gallery, bronzes, vases etc The custodian (1 1.) will be found if the stair-case in the corner of the court, to the 1. of the entrance, be ascended (fee % — 1 1.). The formation of a i catalogue and a re-arrangement of the objects are now being i undertaken. The Cavaliere Frassia is the director. The principal objects on the basement tloor are: the "iletopee of Se- linus, the most ancient specimens of Greek scnlpture, with the exception of the lions of Mycene. They belong to different periods. The oldest, dating from the first part of the 7th cent., still bear traces of the oriental , style which gave birth to Greek art. 1. Hercules Melampygos with the Cercopes; 2. Perseus slaying the Medusa; 3. A Q.uadriga (combat of Peleus anSVc?7. School of the 15th cent.., Madonna delle Grazie with SS. Peter, Lucia, Agatha, Paul, ('osmus and Damian ^ Van Dyck., Portrait ; Antonello da Mes- sina., (’oronation of 3Iary. Wall of the egress: Novelli^ Release of St. Peter. Wall of the entrance: Bassano., Portrait^ ’^Vela.^quez., Cavalier protecting a beggary Netherlands School., Portrait of a nun: Van Dyck Martyr (origi- nally Andromeda). In the centre the celebrated *Ram of Syracuse (its felhuv di.sappeared during the Revolution of 1848). In the adjoining room ancient terracottas, vases etc. In a straight direction, ’’Hercules taming the stag, a fountain-group in bronze from Pom- peii. At the sides 6 vases froni Girgenti ; among them the 2nd on the 1. the mivssion of Triptolemus. To the 1. by the wall of the entrance, a col- lection of vases of Lower Italy, r. terracottas and vases from Gela. Above them two vases from Pompeii, with tragic and comic scenes. By the 1. wall of the windows a cabinet with gold trinkets. In the other cabinets reliefs and figures of terracotta, votive limbs and vases, most of them Sicilian. Ill the street adjoining the university to the r. the Casa Pro- fessa (PI. 13) is reached, with the Jesuits’ Church completed in 1683 , overladen with ornament. Contiguous is the Bihlioteca Corminale (PI. 77) , entered by a Doric vestibule , which contains the most valuable collection of books and MSS. relating to Si- cilian history. On the first floor is the ^‘Historical Hall”, open daily from 9 to 2. Returning hence to the Corso Garibaldi, the traveller reaches the extensive Palazzo Paterno with handsome arcades in the court and, near the Porta San Antonino, the former Teutonic Lodge ^ the sadly disfigured church of which (La Magione) was founded in the 12th cent, by the chancellor Matteo Ajello of Salerno and presented to the Teutonic Order by Frederick II. If the Toledo be followed and the Quattro Cantoni be crossed in the direction of the sea, after 5 min. a transverse street (Via Cintorinari) to the r. leads to S. Francesco d’ Assisi, in the piazza of that name. This church is a Norman structure, of which the facade now alone remains. The interior contains remains of frescoes by Novelli, of which that over the entrance is the best preserved. About 3 min. walk farther the Toledo emerges on the Piazza and Piazzeita della Marina., one of the finest in Palermo, adorned with fountains and grounds. Here is situated the historically re- markable Palazzo dei Trihunali (PI. 98), erected by Manfred Chia- ramonte in 1307. Here queen Bianca resided in 1410, and at a subsequent period the victims of the Inquisition were confined till 1782. The building is now occupied by the courts of justice Domenico. PALERMO. 19. Route. 213 and the dogana. The well-preserved court is accessible through the Dogana Regia. In the vicinity, in the Str. Alloro, is situated the monastery della (jancia (PI. 28), the monks of which have ever (in 1860 also) acted a prominent part in every revolution. Farther on, to the 1. , is the small church of S. Maria della Catena (PI. 47), erected in 1400 on the site of an earlier structure. The facade, in which the ancient style predominates, exhibits an unusually depressed form of arch , such as is frequently seen in S. Italy towards the close of the Gothic period. The Loggia com- mands a survey of the small harbour of La Cala. Following the Toledo , the traveller reaches the Piazza di S. Spirito , with the Conservatorio (Foundling Hospital etc.) of that name, founded in 1608: beyond it are the Porta Felice and the promenades skirting the coast. The church of S. Domenico (PI. 22), in the piazza of that name erected in 1640, and distinguished by its simplicity and spacious dimensions, is capable of accommodating 12,000 persons. It contains several good pictures by Pietro Novelli and Vincenzo Anemolo. Of modern edifices the most remarkable is the Palazzo Forcella on the Marina, near the Porta dei Greci (PI. B, 6), constructed in a strange combination of styles and adorned with fine mosaics. Palermo contains few private collections. The library of the Principe Trabia (Septimiana) (Pal. Trebia, Via Macqueda, W. por- tion. No. 387) contains valuable works on the history of Sicily. The cabinet of antiquities contains some good Sicilian vases; also a fine collection of Venetian glass, not easily accessible (applica- tion is made to the major-domo). M. Agoslino Gallo., the historian of art, possesses an interesting gallery of portraits of celebrated Sicilians. 20* Environs of Palermo. a. Monreale. Distance about 5 M. Monotonous road as far as the Salita (can*. 2— 2 i| 2 l.), where a carr. may generally be found for the return-journey. The ascent of the hill thence is a pleasant walk of ^2 hr. ; the old road should be follow'ed. Carriages for the excursion may also be hired outside the Porta Nuova, 4i|2 — 51., including a stay of P\ 2 — 2 hrs. The locandas at Monreale are poor 5 the least objectionable is op])Osite to the cathedral. Those who purpose to spend several hours at Monreale and then t(> proceed to S. Martino (p. 215), about 3 M. farther, will do well to take a suj)ply of provisions in their carriage. Those who ride or walk from Monreale to S. Martino may send the carriage back to P>occadifalco (p. 215), directing the driver to wait there. Donkey 6 — 8 tari. Beggars and donkey-attendants in the town often excessively insolent. 21 1 Route MOMiKALK Rn rfrf'U^ Wlicii the Porta Nuova is quitted , the Lar^^o di S. 'J’eresa or deir Iiidipendeiiza (PI. C, Ij is entered. The perfectly straight prolongation of the Str. Toledo leads to Monreale. The road to the 1., the 8tr. Porrazzi , leads to Parco. On it is situated the ( dKd. de' Mdtti, a well-conducted lunatic asylum. Farther on, to the r. in the piazza, stands the Pidace of the Due d’Auuvde. Although the duke has not visited this mansion since 18G0, the extensive garden is well kept and should be visited by those whose stay at Palermo permits (trifling feej. On the road to Monreale, after passing the spacious poor-house on the r., a halt should be made at the *Cuba on the 1. by those interested in Norman-Arabic architecture. 'J’his edifice, now serving as barracks , was once a Saracenic chateau , which , as is con- jectured from the now illegible Arabic inscription on the parapet, was altered by AVilliam II. in llSl. The palace, in the interior of which remnants of handsome decorations in the Moorish style are still preserved, was surrounded by an extensive park and flsh- ponds. A pavilion once appertaining to it is now on the opposite side of the street in the garden of the Cavaliere Napoli and is termed Ld ('ahold (T)ecamerone A\ G). Farther on. on the 1. side of the road, is the ( dpurhin Mondstery^ in the subterranean cor- ridors of which the bodies of wealthy inhabitants of Palermo, sumptuously decorated, are preserved. They may be inspected by those who have a taste for such a ghastly spectacle. A more agreeable impression is created by a visit to the charming * Villa Tdscd . to the 1. of the road, where the Swiss cottage stands. Conte Tasca, one of the first systematic farmers of Sicily, here possesses an experimental station and has surrounded his summer- residence with the most beautiful garden of Palermo (no fee ; visitors ring at the entrance to the flower-garden). Some distance farther the road , constructed at the expense of the celebrated archbishop Testa of Monreale , ascends by windings to the ^‘royal mount’’, on which William 11. in 1174 founded a Benedictine abbey and in 1170 — '7G erected the far-famed ** Cathedral of Monreale. Around this edifice a town of 16,000 inhab. has sprung up since Monreale became the seat of the second archbishopric in the island. The cathedral, in the form of a Latin cross, 313 ft. long and 124 ft. wide, possesses 3 apses, a nave and two aisles. The entrance is flanked by two square towers. The magnificent portal possesses the admirably executed ( in 1186) * bronze doors of ^dlonannus (Uvis Pisanus”, adorned with reliefs from sacred history. The pointed arch of the nave is supported by 18 columns of granite. The transept is approached by f) steps. Four pillars support the pointed vaulting which is constructed entirely in the Arabic style, greatly d(;pressc(l as in the portal. of Palermo. MONKEALK. Ponte. 215 The mosaics with which the walls of the church are entirely covered occupy a space ot 60,896 sq. ft. and consist of three different classes, re 2 :)re- sentations from the Old Testament (prophecies of the Messiah), from the life of the Saviour and from the lives of the apostles. The nave contains the principal subjects of the Old Test, down to the Wrestling of Jacob with the Angel, in two rows of 20 representations. The aisles and tran- septs contain respectively each 9 and 15 scenes from the history of Christ. On the arches of the transept subjects from the life of the apostles Peter and Paul. In the tribune the bust of Christ (with the inscription : "/. Xq, uavTOAod'naQ^) \ beneath it a Madonna in Trono with two angels and the Apostles at the side; under these are 14 saints. In the niches at the 'Sides Peter and Paul. Above the royal throne is portrayed king William in the act of receiving the crown direct from Christ (not from the pope!); above the archiepiscopal seat he is represented as offering a model of the cathedral. — Sarcophagi in the transepts contain the remains of William I. and his three sons Roger (d. 1164), Henry (d. 1179) and William II. The monument of the latter in the r. aisle was erected in 1575. The beautiful wood-carving in high-relief in the 1. transept should not be overlooked. The church was seriously injured by a conflagration on Nov. 11th, 1811, but has been judiciously restored. The visitor should not omit to ascend to the roof of the cathedral for the sake of enjoying the magnificent *view it affords. The garden of the monastery (reached by going round to the rear of the cathedral) also commands a charming prospect; the atmosphere in spring is here laden with the delicious fragrance of the orange-blossoms. Of the ancient Benedictine monastery, which William supplied with monks from La Cava, nothing remains save the celebrated * Cloisters^ the pointed vaulting of which is adorned with mosaics and supported by 216 columns in pairs. The capitals are all diffe- rent, the shafts also varied (date 1200). — In the modern mona- stery the marble stair-case adorned with pictures by Velasquez and Pietro Novello (Monrealese) are the principal objects of admiration. From Monreale a steep path to the r. (Le Scale) ascends in 1 hr. to the summit of the mountain, crowned by a now deserted fort (2400 ft.). After passing the culminating point, the tra- veller descends to the ancient Benedictine monastery of -8. Martino founded by Gregory the Great. Magnificent *view. Handsome entrance-hall. The museum contains antiquities of no great value, but several well-executed vases and paintings by Monrealese. The library possesses several beautifully illuminated missals. With this library is connected the reminiscence of the extraordinary historical forgeries of the Abate Giuseppe Vella , who had based a history of Sicily on a forged Arabic MS., but was detected by the oriental linguist Hager of Vienna in 1794. From San Martino the traveller descends to the picturesque I valley of Boccadifalco and thus returns to Palermo. To the 1. the ; Convento di Baida , now occupied by Franciscan Minorites , but ! founded by Manfred GhiaramorHe for Cistercians. Here in the 2 1 f) Route "20. montp: pellegkino. Knvirom 10th cent, lay Baidhd ^ a Saracenic village which was connected with Palermo by a row of houses. The terrace affords a tine view Jn the vicinity the not easily accessible stalactite cavern Quattro Arce. The village of Altarello di Baida contains the remnants of' Mimnermum , a place founded by Roger. Farther on , the piazza Olinuzza is reached, Avhere the * ViUf cattle , horses and donkeys graze in spring. As late as the I5th cent, the mountain was clothed with underwood. Hamilcar ilarca cultivated corn here, on the Eircta , when B. C. 247—241 le settled on the mountain with his soldiers and their families nd thence kept the Roman garrison of Panormus in check. Jnder an overhanging rock beneath the summit of the mountain, vhich is not easily accessible from the opposite side , is the grotto of St. Rosalia , where several delightful hours may be pent, provided some hundreds of baying hounds belonging to the [uail-hunters do not happen to be shut up in the neighbouring ard. The grotto has been converted into a church by the ad- lition of a vestibule (dwelling of the parroco to the 1.). The water vhich constantly trickles down the sides is collected and carried 'ff in leaden gutters. The small, decorated cavern in which the hioly maiden performed her devotions is showm by candle-light; n front of it a recumbent statue by the Florentine Gregorio .'edeschi, with sumptuously gilded robes. ^‘The head and hands f white marble are , if not faultless in style , at least so natural nd pleasing that one cannot refrain from expecting to observe ome movement'^ (Goethe). On quitting the chapel the visitor hould proceed to the 1. , passing the dirty farm-houses , to the mall * Temple (20 min. walk farther), where a colossal statue of he saint formerly stood, commanding the finest view towards the ea. Experienced pedestrians may now descend by goat -paths owards the S.W. direct to the Favorita ; or they may prefer to etrace their steps and return to the base of the mountain by he same path. Between Monte Pellegrino and the mountains W. of Palermo es a flat plain , partially separated from the sea on the N. by iie Capo Oallo. The city is quitted by the Porta Macqueda, and tie Str. della Liberta , on the r. side of which stands the mo- ument of Ruggiero Settimo , the Sicilian Nobleman and patriot i. 1862 as honorary president of the Italian senate), leads to ae Giardino Inglese ^ adorned with a bust of Garibaldi, and, irther on , passing a number of villas appertaining to the nobi- ty of Palermo, to the royal chateau La Favorita (cards of ad- lission, procured at the hotels, are necessary in order to obtain 3cess to the interior, but not for the park). This magnificent rbuntry-residence was erected by Ferdinand IV. in the Chinese 'yle with innumerable little bells and surrounded by grounds ith winding walks planted with box. Those who are interested 1 agriculture should now proceed to the Istituto Ayrario, founded y Carlo Cutto, Principe di Castelnuovo, who acted a conspicuous I art in the events ’ of 1812 (he bequeathed a considerable sum tO the man “who should succeed in re-establishing the consti- I ition of Sicily’’ and died of voluntary starvation). 218 lioute .SOLANTO F.nKirom* c. The Bagaria. Solanto. S. Maria di Gesu. Railway t<> Bagaria (and Termini) 3 limes daily; fares I 1. 5U, 1 1 10, 80 c. The station lie.'J without the Porta S. Antonino (PI. B, 3). Travel] lers starting by the first train may inspect the most interesting points u Solanto and the Bagaria, and prosecute tlieir journey by the next train Iron Termini (j). 255). A short distance from the town the railway crosses the Oreto. and beyond it, to the 1. below, is seen the lofty arch of the now abandoned Ponte del Ammlraglio ^ constructed in 1113 by tin admiral Georgios Antiochenos. Immediately adjoining it are situate* the ruins of the most ancient Norman church in Sicily, Nan (iio \ vanni del Leprosi, founded by Roger. Here, B. C. 251, the consu Metellus conquered the Carthaginians and captured 120 elephants; In the neighbouring bay Duquesne annihilated the greater par of the united Dutch and Spanish fleets in 1673. Traversing th* most fertile district of the coast at the base of Monte (irijfone in which the Saracens once cultivated the sugar-cane, the travelle| passes Ficarazelli and Ficarazzi and reaches the Bagaria, a country town 872 ^- distant from Palermo, containing groups of palatia villas of Sicilian nobles, abandoned after the proprietors ha*, ruined themselves by the festivals here celebrated in honour o| queen Caroline at the commencement of the present century] Of these the Palazzo Valguarnera alone merits a visit, for th’ sake of the magnificent view which it commands. The Vill\ Eater a, Villa Palagonia and others contain a few works of art ii a fantastic and quaint style. At Sta. Flavia, 1 M. distant, Phcje^ nician tombs, which may be regarded as catacombs in their infancy were discovered in 1864. Omnibus from the station to the churci in 20 min.', fare 72 1- ’ thence to the 1. by a road proceedini from the church at a right angle. Then through the last hous on the 1. to the E. hill of the promontory Catalfano , where th Phmnician stronghold Soloeis^ Soluntum, now * Solanto, once laj] The period of its destruction , probably by the Saracens , caiiiic now be determined. The ancient pawed causeway, ascending th hill in zigzags, has been brought to light; to the r. and 1. ar houses , among which is the so-called Gymnasium , a court wit colonnade of two stories (fee to the custodian of the excavation 7., — 1 17, Admirable *view^ from the summit, the site of a| ancient temple of Zeus , where the statue of Zeus , now' in tb museum at Palermo , was found. Towards the PI. , where tb Tonnara di Solanto now is, lay the harbour of the town. ^ Good walkers may clamber down the steep hill , reach Bagar by a direct footpath, and there inspect the villas; thence to tl station D/j \of Pdlenno. S. MARIA DI GESU. W. Route. 219 Farther up on the brook Bayarki (ancient Eleutheras), 1 M. the E. of Portella di Mare ^ once lay a large Phoenician town, bsequently a Saracenic stronghold , termed Kasr-Sdd. The mo- tn village is Cannita, and here the Greek-Phoenician sarcophagi the museum of Palermo were found. Quitting the Porta S. Antonino and proceeding direct to Monte iffone, the traveller reaches the (2 M.) suppressed Minorite [mastery of S. Maria di Gesu (fiacre 11/2 1.). The *view of iiermo and Monte Pellegrino in the background is so picturesque it this point is a favourite resort of artists. The mountain should i ascended at least as far as the crosses. The court of the mo- stery contains a beautiful palm. Near the monastery, 179 ft. )ve the sea-level, is the Grotta de’ Giyanti., where the remains antediluvian animals (mammoth etc.), formerly believed to be nes of giants, were found. On the way back to Palermo , to the r. of the road , are the nnants of the Saracenic-Norman chateau La Eavara^ now Mare 'ice , the magnificence of which Arabian and Jewish travellers the middle ages were never weary of describing, and where Bderick II. also held his court. To the 1, , as the town is proached, extends the Campo di Santo Splrito , where in 1782 i old cemetery was laid out (the new lies on the N. side of nte Pellegrino). Here in 1173 Walter of the Mill had founded .I'istercian monastery, and in its vicinity a century later, March st, 1282, the massacre of the Sicilian Vespers began, during ich the bell of S. Giovanni degli Eremiti was tolled. From Palermo an excursion may be made by steamboat (7^j2 1.) to the nd of TJstica, 41 M. distant and 10 M. in circumference. Its two prin- 'al mountains are the Falconieva to the E. and the Quadriga di Mezzo 78 ft.) to the W. The island was colonized by the Phoenicians in an- /it times. The Romans subsequently took possession of it^ during the Idle ages it was but sparsely populated. As late as 1762 barbarian pi- is murdered or carried off the entire population. The number of in- utants is now 4000. The cavernous formations here are interesting to legists. Fossil conchylia are also found in the island. 21. Excursion from Palermo to Tunis. (' arth ay e. The traveller who has never quitted Europe may easily accomplish an ursion to the African coast from Palermo. The ruins of Carthage are the vicinity of Tunis and few will omit to visit the site of the once hty city which ruled the ocean. The excursion from Palermo and back j.aires 5 days. Ever>^ fortnight (alternate Sundays) a steamer of the ! fio Co. leaves Palermo for Tunis, touching at Trapani, Marsala and ■ tellaria and arriving on tlie afternoon of Monday. On Wednesday after- ! n it returns to Palermo, arriving on Tliursday night or early on Friday 220 i^oute !>/. PANTELLAIilA. morning. Those wlio liave obtained permission to visit the Bardo (p. 221 on the Tuesday afternoon should so arrange their stay at Tunis as devote the morning of Tuesday to the visit of the town, reclaim theii passports, and drive to the Bardo in the afternoon (4 -6 1.). In the eveninj a Turkish cafe should by all means be visited , for the sake of seeing th^ “haschisch” smokers. Wednesday should be devoted to Carthage, where tra vellers reembark for Palermo in the afternoon. Fares from Palermo !< Tunis and back (i|4th less than double fares): 1st cl. 94 1. inch provisions. 2nd cl. 601. without provisions; single journey 66i|2, or 41>|2 h Steamer onct| weekly to Cagliari in 18 hrs. ; 1st ch, inch dinner, 52*|2, 2nd cl. 37*12 h from Cagliari to Leghorn and Genoa see p. 313. These routes may als< frequently be combined with a trip to Sardinia, where a few days may b< spent on the way to Tunis. Tc) Malta no regular service (p. 302). de France^ in the street Sidi Murdschanni. to the h on entering the town, R. 2, D. 3*|2 , a. *| 2fi’-; near it a French cafe in the same street. A good carriage to Carthage 8 — 10 fr., to Goletta 8 fr. ; embarcation at Goletta 1—2 fr. ' according to bargain. Two Algerian Jews, the brothers David and Abrahairj Kadun, act as guides at Tunis and are generally in waiting on the arriva of the steamboat at Goletta. They speak a little French and Italian. Thd tirst-named the better (5 1. per diem). ' Before starting the traveller must have his passport vise by the Turkish consul. He gives it up on board the steamer and reclaims it from his con- sul on the day after arriving at Tunis. From one of the consuls (English French, American etc.) permission to visit the Bardo or palace of the Bey is procured. This is easily obtained when the Bey is residing there; but ilj he is at Goletta for the sea-bathing season, the consul is obliged to com-l municate with the minister of the exterior, who in this case is probabljJ also at Goletta. All this occupies time. A simple card from the consul or the attendance of his dragoman, sometimes suffices to admit the traveller to all that is shown to strangers. Ladies may occasionally obtain access t(j a harem, the romance attached to which is not unfrequently di.spelled bjj a visit. I The steamboat after quitting Palermo touches at Trapan:! (p. 228) and Marsala fp. 231), and arrives on the following morning at Pantellana, a volcanic island about 50 sq. M. ir^ circumference, containing an extensive establishment for convicts, and 5000 inhabitants , who carry on a thriving trade in tigs, raisins etc. The race of donkeys is here very fine. The island possesses numerous hot springs which emit carbonic acid gas. It is 36 M. in circumference and was named Cossyra by the an- cients. The Phoenicians appear to have been its earliest occu-^ pants. The glistening wh te houses contrasted with the dark mountains give the island a peculiar aspect. The steamboat ther steers due W. , Cape Bon, the barren coast of Africa, soon be- comes visible and the Bay of Tunis is entered. At the entrance lie the small islands of Zemhra and Zemharotta. 'ITie bay contracts, and after a few hours more (to the 1. precipitous and barren cliffs, forming, as it were, a most imposing frame to the picture presented by the bay), the landing-place a1 (ioletta becomes visible. To the r. of Goletta, on a low pro- montory, precipitous on the E. side only, was situated the an- cient Carthage. TLM^. 'JL. Route. 221 Goletta is the small port of Tunis, with barracks, an arsenal 11(1 a number of palaces in the vicinity. Soon after the steamer las cast anchor in the roads of Goletta the inspector of the har- ■our comes on board, and having completed the necessary forma- ties returns to the land. Boats then convey passengers to the )ogana, where the luggage is superficially examined. The offl- iially, but shabbily attired custom-house officer occ^asionally extorts fee by threatening to examine the luggage a second time if his ,emand is not complied with. Travellers may repel such over- ;ires by threatening to complain to the authorities. The boat tien proceeds by the canal which intersects the peninsula of loletta and connects the sea with the internal lake El Bahira 'rom the steamboat to Tunis 3 I.). In case of a dead calm, iis portion of the journey is tedious, and it is then advisable to rive from Goletta to Tunis (IV 2 carr. 6—8 1. The canal crossed by two moveable wooden bridges, the opening of which Tten causes delay. The operation may generally be accelerated y a polite remonstrance addressed to one of the officials, unless so happen that the Bey himself is about to cross the bridge, his dignitary generally resides at Goletta in the spring for the ike of the sea-bathing. His palace is situated to the r. of the inal. The lofty house on the coast, farther off in the direction the heights, is the residence of the prime minister or Kasnadar. 0 the 1. of the canal is the Dogana, then the buildings of the irem and more to the 1. the building w^here executions take .ace. The wrecks of several huge vessels of war lying in the iternal lake convey an adequate idea of the neglect and ruin hich everywhere prevail. The cannon on the pier and on the istion to the r. of the canal are trophies of victories of a re- nte period. The island of Schykeli in the lake, %rds of the ay to Tunis , is said to contain a large leaden reservoir. The ke is the resort of innumerable birds , among which are flamin- )es. — On entering the city the luggage is again superficially tamined, an operation which may be expedited by a trifling fee. Tunis contains a population of 150,000, of which one-fifth at ast is Jewish (Jews wear blue, Mohammedans green or white rbans). A considerable number of Italians reside in the Citth ranca at the W. end of the town , with a small piazza by the ■te which forms the central point. Various phases of oriental e may be witnessed in the narrow and sometimes unpaved reets. The Bazaar contains numerous shops. At several points e thoroughfare is obstructed by tombs of saints. The mosques e not accessible to the public. The town is half in ruins ; so 50 the Kasha , the castle within the town , the wall of which mmands a pleasing prospect (access on application to the com- andant). The extensive burial grounds for the poor lie without 222 J^ioute '21. CAKTHA(iE. tJ»e gates. I'lie palace of the Iley in the city is uninteresting i)ut the Bardo , the residence of that dignitary , an extensive pili 1^/2 M. distant, is worthy of inspection. The major-domo show the throne -room, adorned witli characteristic pictures, the apart ments of the Bey etc. A carriage and the attendance of a drago man are indispensable for this expedition. From the Bardo thy the shallow lake of Tunis, which was almost entirely separated fron the bay by a low and narrow tongue of land projecting from the Car Ibaginian f)eninsula ; on the S.E. side lay the open bay. On the latter siiU was situated the double-harbour of the city, constructed by artificial nieans 1 Ihe external or connnercial harbour was an oblong quadrangle with tlnj nan-ower end towards the sea, from the entrance to which, 70 ft. in breadtl onl\. broad quays extended <»n ))oth sides; the internal «u' naval harbour CARTHAGE. Route. 223 the Kothon, was of a circular form, accessible from the external and con- taining an island in the centre occupied bv the admiral’s residence The two were separated by the city-wall, which extending E, from the Byrsa excluded the neck of land and the external, but included the naval harbour’ so that the entrance to the latter must have been closed by a gate. In the vicinity of the naval harbour was situated the market-place, connected bv t^iree narrow streets with the castle which towards the towns was open To the N. of and without the town lay the considerable space of the present jEl Mersa, at that period tenned Magalia, principally occupied by country- residences and carefully cultivated gardens and enclosed by a rampart of its own adjoining the city-wall. On the opposite extremity of the penin- ;sula, the Dschebel-Khawi, near the modern village of Camart, was situated the city of tombs. Thus the city, the suburb and the tombs occupied the entire width of the promontory on the side towards the bav and were ac- cessible only by the two high roads to Utica and Tunis which traversed the already described narrow neck of land. The latter, although not pro- tected by a wall, afforded the most advantageous position to armies posted there for and under the protection of the city.” Mommsen, Rom. Hist. Karthada, or new town, as the city was originally called, was founded ,by the Phcenicians (Dido) about 880 and subsequentlv became their most important colony. It was in vain besieged bv Agathocles, but was taken and entirely destroyed by Scipio in 146. Augustus established a Roman colony here, which owing to the incomparably favourable situation of the town and the fertility of its environs soon attained the rank of the third nty of the empire. In 439 it was conquered by Genseric and made the capital of the Vandal empire, but in 533 succumbed to the attacks of Belisarius. The supremacy of the Byzantine emperors was subverted bv the irabians in 647 and the city destroyed. On the eminence nearest to Goletta >Louis Philippe caused a chapel to be erected in 1841 and surrounded with i wall to the memory of his ancestor St. Louis who died here in 1270 yhilst engaged in a crusade against Tunis. The site of Carthage is there- ore occasionally termed San Luige by the inhabitants of Tunis. The ■arden surrounding the chapel (permission to visit it is granted by the French consul; access, however, may generally be obtained for a fee of fr.) contains immured Roman inscriptions and reliefs, dating from the mpenal era, found in the course of excayations made bv the French iovernment. Here, too, is a fragment of a wall with two niches, supposed 0 have been the posterior wall of the celebrated temple of .Esculapius, his eminence having doubtless been the site of the Byrsa, or capitol of he city. The visitor next inspects a long succession of vaulted chambers, n imposing structure in brick, believed to have once been employed as isterns. These, together with extensive ruins on the coast, appertain to he Carthage of the Roman period. The topography of the most ancient ity. owing to its frequent destruction and the great alterations which have aken place in its site, cannot now be ascertained. The village of Sidi-bu- ^atd cannot be visited without the express permission of the Bey. Anti- uarians are recommended to visit a collection of Roman inscripthms and "elics belonging to Sidi Mohammed, eldest son of the Kasnadar, near the ';ardo. ’ 22. From Palermo to Segesta, Castelvetrano and Selinunto. I he most direct route to the ruins of Segesta and Selinunto is by Cala- hmi. thence by Salerni to Castelvetrano. 1st Day, by Diligence (9 1. 60 c I ! ’ periodica to Calatafimi (40i|4 M.). 2nd Day, to Segesta, 4 M. from Cala- lihmi. and back; then to Castelvetrano (27 M., dilig. 61. 45c) 3rd Day 224 -- ALCAMO. /row PaUrmf (o Selinunto and beytnid il. sec R. 23. Tliree-horse carr. from Palermo to Custelvetraiio, where the carriage-road terminates, 6(.) — 7U I. and a gratuity. — Those who contemplate visiting Segesta only, and returning to Palermo, may, if the steamboats suit, extend their excursion to Trapani and Monte S. Giuliano (p. 229): 1st Day, to Calatafimi ; 2nd Day, to Segesta and by i diligence to Trapani (5 1. 55c.); 3rd Day, to Monte S. Giuliano^ 4th Day, ' by steamboat from Trapani to Palermo. Ur the reverse direction, by steam- boat to Trapani and back by diligence. The steamers of the Florio Co. run once weekly from Palermo to Syracuse by Trapani. (Jnce a fortnight the Tunis boat touches at Trapani and Marsala, where both of these vessels also touch on the return-passage to Palermo. Those who desire to visit Segesta only cannot accomplish the journey by carriage without change of horses in less than three days. The distance is shorter via Alcamo (30 M.) direct to Segesta (8^12 M.), but this route is generally considered hazardous. Carriage for 3 days 60—70 1. and 3—5 1. buonamano. Tlie road to Trapani leads by (4 M.) Monreale and crosses the beautiful valley of the Sirneto with its luxuriant orange - groves , beyond which the small town of Parco becomes visible on the 1. and the slope of M. Caputo is ascended. After an ascent of 1/2 M. the road turns to the W., enters a desolate rocky valley enclosed by precipitous mountains, which on all sides appertain to the monks of S. Martino, and descends to the borough of Borghetto (6000 inhab.J. A fertile, well-irrigated tract is now traversed, in which near Giardinello the Due d’ Aumale possesses extensive and admirably formed estates 1 (zuppo). From Borghetto the road leads by a royal domain (l.j ! and beneath the Montagna della Croce., a red limestone-rock, to | the country-town of (13 M.) Sola dl Partinico (Locanda della Bambina) with a i population of 19,000. Beyond the mountain-chain which towers | to the N. of Partinico (Mte. Belvedere and Mte. Orso) not far from the sea Carini is situated, once the free Sicanian town of Hyccara^ whence in 415 the Athenians carried off the afterwards so celebrated courtesan Lais, then a girl of 12 years. The present inhabitants of this district are certainly no longer remarkable for | handsome features. The road leads from Partinico by the dreary j village of Valguamera (the conical mountain to the 1., contiguous to the lofty M. Mitro , is the Pizzo di Marabella) and through several ravines to (13 M. ) Alcamo (Locanda della Fortuna; Albergo Italiano., in a side-street, opp. the cathedral, tolerable), a town with 15,701 inhab. , of Arabian origin. In 1223, after an insurrection, Fre- derick II. substituted a Christian for the Saracenic population. The town still presents a quaint aspect. Above the town rises the lofty Mte. Bonifato or della Madonna dell’ Autu (Alto) (2072 ft.), whence a magnifleent prospect of the Bay of Castellamare is ob- tained. The house here pointed out as that of the earliest Sicilian poet Ciullo d’ Alcamo is in reality of much more recent origin. to Selinunto. SEGESTA. 22. Route. 225 From Alcamo the road descends into the valley of the Fiume Freddo , the Crimissus of the ancients , on the banks of which, nearer its source, Timoleon with 11,000 men conquered 70,000 €arthaginians , w^hilst attempting to cross the river, B. C. 340. On the left bank of the mouth of tha river lies Castellamare, which gives its name to the entire bay between the promontory of S. Vito on the W. and Rama on the E. , a town of 15,000 inhab., once the seaport of Segesta, now carrying on a consider- able trade with Italy. It has the reputation of being the worst harbour of brigands in Sicily. The road now ascends from the Fiume Freddo to ( 101/4 M.) Calatafimi (Locanda di Matteo, poor; Alhergo Ga- ribaldi alia Piazza Maggiore. The cure Niccolb Consentino willingly affords information to travellers). If the principal street be as- cended, a good footpath diverging to the r. beyond the town will lead the stranger to the summit of the castle hill. Fine *view hence of the temple , the town beneath and the extensive moun- tainous landscape in the environs. A visit to Segesta requires 3 — 4 hrs., guide necessary (i/.> 1 ., Niccolb Morsellino recommended). The path from Calatafimi to (4^M!) Segesta is rugged, but extremely picturesque. It descends imme- diately from the town to the N. into a precipitous valley traversed by several brooks. Before the traveller rises the almost perpendi- cular Mte. Barbaro, on the summit of which Segesta was situated. It is advisable to ascend to the 1. of the mountain by the course of the Fiumara Pispisa, to visit the temple in the rear of M. Barbaro first and thence to ascend to the summit , from which the descent may either be made by the ancient approach to the town to the Fiumara, or again by the temple and then to the r. round the mountain to Calatafimi. Segesta (Egesta) is one of the most ancient towns in the island and not of Greek origin , in consequence of which it was incessantly engaged in war with the Greek inhabitants of the neighbourhood, although in the course of centuries its entire aspect had become Hellenic. The Greeks entertained the conviction that the Egestans were descended from the Trojans, who settled here near the warm springs of the Scamander (Fiume Gdggera)., and had combined with the Elymi so as to form a distinct people. During the Roman period the tradition accordingly arose that the town was founded by ^neas. The ancient town experienced the most disastrous vicissitudes. Oppressed by the inhabitants of Selinus, the Egestans invited the Athenians to come to their aid, and after the defeat of the latter at Syracuse, they surrendered to the Carthaginians who destroyed Selinus and Egesta also. Since that period the temple remained uncompleted. The town, however, recovered, and hoped to throw off the Carthaginian yoke by seeking the cooperation Baedeker. Italy 111. 2(1. Edition. 226 I^oute 22 . CASTELVETRANO. From Palermo of Agathocles^ but the tyrant on his return from an expedition against Carthage massacred the ill-fated inhabitants on the banks of the Scarnander in order to appropriate their treasures, whilst others were sold as slaves. The town was then named Diceeopolis. During the first punic war the in- habitants allied themselves with the Romans and changed the name of their town from Egesta (egestas) to Segesta. The Romans, actuated by a sen- timent of veneration for tl»€ ancient Trojan traditions, accorded some as- sistance. Verres despoiled the town of the bronze statue of Demeter, which had once been carried off by the Carthaginians and restored by Scipio Africanus. The ruins still in existence are the following : The ** Temple without the town , situated on an eminence above the Torrente Pispisa, a peripteros-hexastylos of 36 columns, was never completed. The columns are therefore unfluted, .the steps of the basement unfinished and the cella not commenced. In other respects it is one of the best preserved Doric temples in Sicily and its simple but majestic outlines in this desolate spot are profoundly impressive. Length, inch the steps, 190 ft., width 82 ft. , height of columns with capitals 28 ft. and thick- ness 5^2 intercolumnia 8 ft. in width. The architraves were beginning to give way and were therefore secured where necessary with iron rods in 1865. From the temple the traveller ascends by the custodian’s house to the summit of M. Barharo , the site of the town itself, and enters the Theatre^ commanding a magni- ficent view : in the direction of the stage rises M. Inice in the background, farther to the 1. M. Sparagio , to the r. is the so- called Bosco di Calatafimi and lower down in the valley of the Scarnander (Gaggera) the remains of the Thermae Segeslanae^ sup- plied by four different warm springs which are passed on the route to Alcamo. The diameter of the theatre, which is hewn in the rock, is 195 ft., of the entire stage 86 ft. and of the orchestra 52 ft. The twentieth row of seats adjoining the priccinctio (or barrier between the different tiers) is furnished with backs. A few fragments of houses with Roman and Greek mosaic pavements have recently been excavated. In returning from the temple the traveller ’obtains a view of the battle-field (indicated by crosses), where Garibaldi obtained the decisive victory of May 15th, 1860. Those who proceed to Castelvetrano traverse the valley between Calatafimi and Vita, from which Garibaldi directed his attack on the 3000 Neapolitans posted on the heights under Landy. This route from Calatafimi to Castelvetrano (27 M. , 6 1. 45 c. by diligence) is monotonous and historically uninteresting. 4 M. Vita ; 41/2 Salemi, a town with 12,000 inhab. , commanded by a ruined castle. The district is monotonous, but becomes more attrac- tive as the road approaches 13 M. Castelvetrano, Sicil. Casteddu Vetranu (Locanda della Ihmtera, tolerable), a provincial town with 18, 156 inhabitants who to Selinunto. SELLNUS. 21>. Route, 227 are hereditary tenants of the fertile district around the town, the property of the dukes of Monteleone (of the family of Aragona- PignatelliJ. The campanile of the church adjacent to the palace ^ of Monteleone affords the best panorama of the surrounding plain. The church of 8. Giovanni contains a statue of St. John by Gagini. From Castelvetrano to Selinunto M.) in about 2^0 hrs. (mule there and back 4 Tari, i. e. 1 1. 80 c., and 1—2 Ta'ri for . food and gratuity). The road to Sciacca is at first followed. A ' field-road then diverges r. to the ruined temples of the Neapolis on the W. hill. In order to reach the Acropolis the traveller I should cross the sand-bank as near the sea as possible , as the valley between the Neapolis and Acropolis is marshy. A custodian is generally to be found at the Acropolis; but previous enquiry may be made at Castelvetrano. His services may, however, easily : be dispensed with. A supply of refreshments should be taken for • the journey. "^^Selinus, possessing the grandest ruined temples in Europe, was founded in 650 or 628 by colonists from Megara Hyblcfia under Pammilus , and was the most western settlement of the Hellenes in Sicily. On an eminence by the sea, 100 ft. in height to the E. of the river Selinus (Madiuni),, Pammilus erected the Acropolis, behind which, more inland, the town itself lay. On the opposite hill, separated by a s\\'ampy valley (Gorgo di Cotone), the credit of draining which is said to have been due to the philosopher Empedocles , the Neapolis was founded in the 6th cent. The Selinuntians were still engaged in the construction of the temples of the latter when Hannibal Gisgon destroyed the town in 409. The conflicts between the Selinuntians and Egestans, , whose dominions were contiguous, afforded the Athenians a pre- text for interfering in the affairs of Sicily and eventually led to the destruction of the town. Hannibal attacked it with 100,000 men. Help from Syracuse came too late. 16,000 inhabitants were put to the sword and 5900 carried off to Africa as captives. 2600 only effected their escape to Acragas. From that blow Selinus never recovered. Hermocrates, the exiled Syracusan patriot, foun- ded a colony here in 40^, but under the Carthaginian supremacy . it never attained to prosperity. In the first Punic war it was- finally destroyed. As the district is unhealthy in summer the town has since that period remained deserted. The temples alone were- not entirely abandoned , for in the early Christian period cells, were formed between the buttresses and occupied as dAvellings. The Mohammedans termed the place Rahl-el-Asnam or ^‘Village of the Idols”, and here they opposed the attacks of King Roger. It cannot be exactly determined when the columns were over- thrown. The temple G. only appears to have been destroyed by 15 * 228 Route 22 . SELINU8. human hands; the ruin of the others was probably occasioned by an earthquake. On the W. hill lie the ruins of 4 temples, which in the direction from S. to N. (accord, to Serradifalco) we shall designate by the letters A. B. C. 1)., those on the E. hill, also from S. to N., by the' letters E. F. G. The measurements are given approximately in English feet. Length of temple incl. steps . . . A. 123 B. 31 C. 218 D. 180 E. 217 F. 204 G. 322 Width of temple incl. steps . . . 55 18 81 86 86 88 166 : Height of columns with capitals . . - - 28 - 32 28 55 Diameter of columns 33j4 - 3i|3 23|4 4 22j3 Height of entablature (trabeazione) - 12lj3 12i|4 14i|3 14*^13 17^ Intercolumnia 5 - • ' 6^2 8 7lj3 8 10’; 3 ! 1 Length of cella 87 - 124 112 156 128 257 i Width of cella 27 - 32 ^ 28 45 26 ' 72 A. Peripteros-hexastylos, 14 columns on each side, 2 in the pronaos, 2 in the posticum and 2 pilasters. B. A small structure, ascribed to Hermocrates. C. Hexastylos-peripteros, with 17 columns on each side. The Metopse 1, 2 and 3 in the museum at Palermo were found here. This temple was the most important of those on the Acropolis. In front of it ter- , minates the Via Sacra which ascends the mountain, the gateway of which may still be traced. A portion of the ruined wall, however, I appears to have been constructed at a later date (probably 407) with I stones from the temples. It is supposed to have been dedicated to Hercules. D. Hexastylos-peripteros, with 15 columns on each side. Here the Me- ! topse 6—10, 3 in the pronaos and 2 in the posticum, were found bv i Cavallari in 1831. ' | F. Hexastylos-peripteros, with 14 columns and double portions. An unwise ' project of re-erecting one of the columns has lately been commenced ! at an enormous expense. O. Octastylos-pseudodipteros-hypsethros, with 17 columns and double por- ticus, uncompleted. C. was probably the oldest, G. the most recent temple. It cannot now be ascertained to whom they were dedicated. — E., however, appears to have been dedicated to Hera from an inscription found in it in 1865 (beside the altar also discovered there). — G. on account of its magnitude is sup- l)osed to have been sacred to Zeus Olympios. 23. From Palermo to Segesta, Trapani, Marsala and Castelvetrano. This route to Segesta and Selinunto requires two days more than the preceding; but those whose time permits should not neglect this opportunity or e.xjdoring the W. angle of Sicily and especially the Monte S. Giuliano'. TRAPANI. 23. lioute. 229 Four days are requisite for the expedition: 1st, Calatalimi: 2nd, Segesta, then to Trapani (23i|2 M. ; dilig. daily except Sat., 51. 55 c.); 3rd, Ascent (6*12 ^1-5 an excursion of 6 — 7 hrs.), then to Marsala (1()3|4 M.; dilig. daily except Sat., 4 1. 55 c.); 4th, by Mazzara and Campo- bello to Castelvetrano (22i|2 M ; dilig. daily 5 1. 40 c. ; also a periodica). With regard to steamers comp. p. 206. The weekly Syracuse steamboat is the only vessel which touches at Mazzara. A three-horse carr. for the entire journey may be hired for 100—1101., and 5—101. gratuity. From Palermo to Calatalimi and Segesta see R. 22. From Calatalimi to Trapani a hilly road of 231/2 Midway stands the solitary inn of (121/4 M.) Colonnetta or Canalotti. The surrounding wheat- fields belong to the inhabitants of Monte S. Giuliano , the pre- cipitous mountain which rises to the r. after the mountains for- ming the peninsula of S. Yito are passed. Skirting the base of Mte. S. Giuliano and passing the extensive salt works on either side of the road the traveller reaches (II1/4M.) Trapani (* Albergo delle Cinque Torri, in the Largo S. NTccolo , also a restaurant; * Leon d^Oro, Strada Nuova, near the gate, R. 1 1. , dinner not supplied; Caffe delV Unita Ital., Corso), Drepanon, I)repana = sickle, so called from the form of the peninsula, now the seat of a prefect and bishop, with 28,334 inhabitants. In ancient times it was the harbour of Eryx (Mte. S. Giuliano), but was converted into a fortress by Hamilcar Barca about the year 260 and peopled with the inhabitants of Eryx. In 249 the Carthaginian admiral Adherbal defeated the Roman fleet under the consul Publius Claudius off the harbour , and in 242 Drepana was besieged by the consul Lutatius Catulus, whose principal head-quarters were in the island of Columbaria (Colum- bara). On this occasion the Carthaginian fleet, laden with stores and on its route from Maritimo to Favignana, was completely annihilated , March 241 , in sight of the town , a decisive victory which terminated the first Punic war. During the Roman period the town was of little importance. In the middle ages it flour- ished as a royal residence. In the ^Eneid of Yirgil Anchises is represented as having died here, and ^Eneas as having instituted games to his father’s memory. The island described as the goal in the boat-race is now called AsinelLo. Another tradition is that John of Procida formed the conspiracy against Charles of Anjou on the Scoglio del Mai Consiglio. It is, however, an historical fact that Peter of Arragon, touching here, Aug. 20th, 1282, when on his return from Africa with his fleet, was hailed as the saviour of the town. With the exception of a few mediaeval structures , Trapani contains few objects of interest. It possesses a good public library, founded by the Neapolitan minister of war Fardelli , a native of 230 J^oute ^3. MONTP: SAN GIULIANU. From Palermo this place. The Lyceum, to the r. in the Corso, contains a nat. liist. collection and a picture-gallery (I /2 l-J- Cathedral of S. Lorenzo^ on the r. side of the Corso, possesses a Crucifixion by Van Dyck (in the 4th chap, on the r.). A walk to the Torre de' Legni is recommended. The route thither is from the gate towards the sea, at the extremity of the Corso, inclining slightly to the r. — Well-executed ornarnents in coral and alabaster may be purchased at Trapani (coral , Michele Marceca; pietra dura, Carlo Guida; alabaster, Francesco Marino). A very attractive excursion of half-a-day, which should on no account be omitted, may be made to Mte. S. Giuliano from Tra- pani. The traveller must either ride or walk (to the summit in 21/2 hrs. ; donkeys and mules at the gate, 2— 2 V 2 C ; attendant V 2 -I 1.). * Monte San Giuliano, the Fryx of antiquity, is an isolated mountain, 2041 ft. in height, on the summit of which a town with 10,542 inhab. is situated (* Trattoria of Andrea Ilizzo). The road traverses the plain which the traveller has already crossed on the route to Trapani, and where ^neas celebrated his games. The modern water-conduit supplies the town. To the r. the church of the celebrated Madonna di Trapani , erected in 1332. Here the road diverges, from which pedestrians may ascend by a steep footpath to the 1. The precipitous slopes are in some places beautifully clothed with wood; midway the small but fertile Piano dei Cappuccini , to the r. of which rises the rock Petrale, 1. La Cintaria. At the entrance to the towm stands the cathedral, from the campanile of which a fine view may be enjoyed. The interior, restored in 1565, contains an ancient fountain-coping of almost transparent marble. The traveller now ascends through the town to the ivy-clad castle (two towers of wLich are used as a prison, porter 30 c.). The rugged, rocky eminence on which it stands commands a noble prospect of the land and sea. To the W. Trapani at the spectator’s feet and the JEgaean Islands : Maretimo (ancient Hiera) the most distant , to the 1. Favignana (^gusaj nearer, r. Levanzo (Phorbantia) , all of which have since the middle of the 17th cent, been the property of the Genoese family of Pallavicini. Tow^ards the S. stretches the fertile plain of the coast, with Paceco, the ^‘town of cucumbers”; in the back- ground Marsala. Towards the E. tower the mountains of S. Vito (from W. to E. Sparagio, Laccie, Saughe, Santa Bannaba, Kocca and Corvo), and the conical peninsula of Cofano extends into the sea, which bounds three sides of the mountain. In winter Cape Bon in Africa is occasionally visible, the island of Pantellaria (p. 220) frequently. In spring the entire district at the feet of the spectator is clothed with the most luxuriant verdure. to Castelvetrano. MARSALA. 23. Route. 231 On the summit once stood the shrine of Venus Erycina. On this nioun- jtain Phoenician settlers had formerly erected a temple to Aschera, whose worship was attendee with the most impure rites. No blood was permitted to flow on her altar. Melkarth was also worshipped here •, the Greeks therefore believed the temple to have been founded by Hercules, and Dorieus, brother of Leonidas of Sparta, undertook, as a Heraclides, an ex- pedition to conquer this district, but was defeated and slain by the Phoeni- cians and Egestans. During the 1st Punic war Hamilcar Barca surprised the town and besieged the temple, which was bravely defended by the Celtic mercenaries in behalf of Rome, but at the same time plundered by them. The Romans restored it, furnished it with a guard of 2C0 men and accorded it the revenues of 17 towns of Sicily (for Eryx, it was said, had .also been founded by iEneas !). According to some the temple was founded by Daedalus, and Eryx by a son of Venus and Butes. The present appel- lation is derived from the tradition that, when the town was besieged by king Roger, he beheld St. Julian putting the Saracens to flight. The sole remains of the temple of Venus are the foundations within the precincts of the castle, the so-called Ponte del Diavolo and the “fountain of Venus” in the castle-garden, an ancient re- servoir, 4 yds. in width, 8 yds. in length. Of the walls of the sacred city of Venus considerable portions still exist beneath the present wall, between the gates of Trapani and La Spada , con- sisting of huge blocks in layers of equal height. The wall was defended by 11 towers at unequal intervals. The entrance to the town was obviously between the Monte di Quartiere and the Porta la Spada, where in the interior of the town the walls of the ap- proach can be traced towards the r. These walls are unquestion- .ably of very great antiquity, although it cannot now be ascertained by what nation they were erected. The town itself, of which Hamilcar Barca once took possession, lay lower down on the table- land to the W. , immediately above Trapani , but no trace of it ,now exists. The road leads from Trapani, intersecting the beautiful and Tichly cultivated plain of the coast, to (2 M.) La Xitta , (1 M.) Paceco and ( 91/4 M.) Marsala (the high road to which is longer by 71/2 M.). Paceco, founded in 1609, is celebrated for its ex- tensive cultivation of cucumbers and melons. Beyond Paceco the Birgi, the ancient Acithis^ is crossed. Here in the plain of Fal- some to have been i identical with the above. ; Beyond the Porta Aurea are situated the ruins of the ** Temple ■ of Zeus (PI. 15), wdiich was never completed. This vast structure, extolled by Polybius and described by Diodorus, was erected ! between 480 and 400. It was a pseudo-peripteros-hypa;thros with 37 huge half-columns, 6 at the entrance, 7 at the E. extremity and 12 on each side, each 20 ft. in circumference , with flutings broad enough to admit of a man standing in them, and the same number of pilasters in the interior. In the walls of the cella, although uncertain w here , stood the colossal Telamones or Atlan- tes, one of which has been reconstructed, and measures 24 ft. to Girgenti. GIRGENTl. 24. Route. 239 They are supposed to have been situated above the pilasters as bearers of the trabeation. In the tympanum of the E. side was ijrepresented the contest of the gods with the giants , on the W. side the conquest of Troy. Down to 1401 a considerable portion of the temple was still in existence, but it has gradually diminished and in recent times was laid under contribution to aid in the bonstruction of the Molo of Girgenti. Near this temple M. Cavallari has caused four Doric columns Of a temple to be placed , which is commonly , though without foundation , said to have been dedicated to Castor and Pollux .'PL 16). Fragments of the entablature bear distinct traces of Istucco and colouring. It was a peripteros-hexastylos of 34 columns. Near it the substructure of another ancient edifice. The dimensions of the temples (numbers refer to plan) are here given approximately in Engl, feet: Length inch steps ^ 3 ^ 86 127 8 131 228 344 106 Breadth 38 60 60i|2 ,86 172 49 38 Length of cell a - 863|4 91 148 295 76 24 Breadth of cela - 29 29 43 64 18 - Height of columns with capitals 20 21112 31 52 20 - Diameter of columns - 4 4-)2 -63|4 IO1I4 31 12 - [ntercolumnia , . . - 5i|2 5112 7II2 - - - Height of entablature 9114 9114 -- - - - In a garden on the farther side of the valley, which is said to have once been occupied by the fish-pond (piscina) mentioned by Diodorus, are the remains of what is styled the Temple of Vulcan (PI. 20), whence a fine view of the temples opposite. Of the [spring of oil mentioned by Pliny not a trace has been discovered. N. of the temple of Vulcan the Hippodrome was pro- bably situated. Remains of the celebrated Cloacae of Phaeax are seen between the temples of Juno and Hercules , but have not yet been suffi- ciently investigated. The Catacombs or subterranean quarries and caverns beneath the present town are probably of more remote origin. They are visited from the entrance to the ^church del Purgatorio. The Cathedral (PI. 28), commenced in the 14th cent., now presents a combination of almost every architectural style ; the ;,best portion is the unfinished tower. The modernized interior con- 240 lioute 24. GIliGENTI. sists of nave and two aisles. In the N. aisle, between the tw ! hist columns, is preserved a celebrated marble sarcophagus fshowi i by the sacristan), with representations in relief of the myth o * Hippolytus. ^ Hippolytus hunting and in the act of slaying a boar. Oi Hhsedra pining for love , behind her the nurse who unveils her playing on the guitar; Cupid discharges his shaft Ph^dra appears to ward oft’ with her left hand. O, the nurse divul^ges to Hippolytus the love of his step-mother he turns sorrowfully aside. On the fourth side Hippolvtus in a recurnbem L 'Uhefs''' the sea-monster. The first and fourth sides are inferior perioVfroma fme anjrent w^rk " " An acoustic peculiarity in the cathedral should be observed by! the visitor. A person standing on the steps of the high-altar can distinguish every word spoken on the threshold of the principal! entrance (from the W.), although the distance is upwards of 90 ft In the N. transept, to the 1., a Madonna by Guido lieni. The Archives (in the tower) of the cathedral comprise collections of documents from the Norman period of Sicilian history; Sicilian popular songs of 1680; a letter, the authorship of which' is attri- buted to the devil, date 1676; a fine ancient vase from a tomb of Girgenti etc. From the cathedral the traveller should proceed to the neigh- bouring church of S. Maria dei Greet (closed, custodian V-> 1.), which contains remains of the Temple of Jupiter Polieus (PL 1) It was a peripteros-hexastylos , the dimensions of which are un- known. These are the most ancient relics which Girgenti possesses. A Museum of antiquities found at Girgenti, especially of vases, at present under the supervision of the Sindaco, has recently been founded. The most interesting mediaeval structures are the portal of San Giorgio and the Palazzo Buonadonna. After a day has been devoted to the examination of the ruins without the town, the following morning may be spent in visiting the objects of interest in the towui itself and the afternoon in riding to the mud-volcano of Maccaluba, unless the traveller prefer to proceed as far as Palma. N. of Girgenti, 6 M. distant, and 3 M. to the W. of the road to Pa lermo, rises tlie small mud-volcano Maccaluba, a bill 42 ft. in height, con- sisting of clay .pul limestone. It is covered with a number of small cones , I ? iissures of which hydrogen is emitted with conside- rahlc noise. Occasionally mud and stones are hurled into the air to a great ncigiit In winter alter continued rain the cones lose their shape. An interesting excursion to the scientific. 241 25. From Girgenti to Syracuse by Palma, Licata, Terranova, Modica (Val (Tlspica) and Palazzolo. From Girgenti to Syracuse the traveller may select one of the three following principal routes : 1st. Through the interior by Caltanisetta, Castro- |iovanni and Catania by carr. (R. 26)^ 2nd. The coast-route on horse back • ijdrd. By steamboat (once weekly). The latter usually starts from the Molo at midnight, rea^ches Licata at 5 a. m. (at each of these places a halt of 1-i hrs ), and Syracuse at 5 p. m. ; fare in the cabin 30i|2 1. (inch early breakfast and dejeuner at 10 o’clock). - The coast-route requires 4il2-5 M.); 2nd. Terranova, 28 M. (Vit- /. oria 33 i| 2 31.); 3rd 3Iodma, 34i|2 31. (Palazzolo 34i|2 31.); 4th. Palazzolo 17 M. (Syracuse 28 31.) ; 5th. Syracuse 28 31. - From Vittoria a carriage- iPoad and diligence-communication (18 1. 90 c.) to Syracuse, by Ragusa, 3Io- dica and ^oto, 783/4 31. Also from Palazzolo diligence (6 1. 60 c ) to Svra- icuse, 271/2 31. Private conveyances are more easily procured at Vittoria and 3Iodica than at Palazzolo. In order to avoid a long and fati«uine' tlio town. Since that period it has disappeared from the pjiges ot histor}. to Syracuse. VITTORIA. 25. Route. 243 The direct road from Terranova to Palazzolo leads by (13 M.) Biscari and (11 V4 M. ) CJiiaramonte, two small towns which contain nothing remarkable. As the road moreover is bad, most travellers will prefer the circuit by Modica , for the sake of seeing the Val d^lsplca (to which a new road will soon be completed). The route from Terranova runs near the coast, till the rivers Gela and Dirillo (ancient Achates) have been crossed (bridges in course of construction), and afterwards joins the high road to (17 M.) Vittoria (Albergo di Michele Santonocito, with trattoria, good wine; Locanda deW Unlone) (15,000 inhab.). The archcBO- logist is recommended to perform the route from Vittoria to Modica by Scoylieti , the Marine of Vittoria , and the site of the ancient Camarina (20 M.). Camarina was founded by Syracuse in 599 and destroyed in 553 for having attempted to assert its independence , but was re-erected by Hippo- crates of Gela after the battle of the Helorus (Telluro or Abisso). Gelon again depopulated the town, but it was a second time colonized by Gela in 461. In 439 it was sacked by the Syracusans and during the war with Athens remained neutral. In 405 Dionysius on his retreat compelled the inhabitants to follow him, and the town was destroyed by the Carthaginians. In 339 it was re-colonized by Timoleon , but soon after fell into the hands of the Romans. A. D. 853 it was entirely destroyed by Abbas-ibn-Fahdl. Camarina was about 5 M. in circumference and lay to the r. of the river Camarana (ancient Hipparis)., at the point where the chapel of the Madonna di Camarana now stands on a sandy eminence 70—90 ft. in height. From Camarina the traveller then proceeds to 8. Croce (5i|2 M.) (poor inn), and Scicli (lli |4 M.) {Locanda del Carmine i hoc. de'' Carceri).^ a town with 10,000 inhab. , on the site of the ancient Syracusan colony Casmenae., founded in 644. From Scicli to Modica diligence daily, 1 1. ^ from Modica to Noto see p. 246. From Vittoria to Modica (and beyond it) diligence daily except Sund., fare 5 1. 40 c., private carr. 17 — 20 1. The road from Vittoria to Modica leads by (4 M.) Cdmiso , a miserable country- town with 10,000 inhab. Here was situated the celebrated fountain of Diana, the water of which refused to mingle with wine when drawn by women of sullied reputation. Beyond Comiso the road ascends , bordered with large carob-trees, to the barren table-land, destitute of shade. Descending to the valley, the traveller perceives to the 1. (13 M.) Ragusa (poor inns , the best at Ragusa Infer.) , a country -town with 21,000 inhab., most romantically situated, probably the ancient Hyhla Heraea. It consists of Ragusa Supe- riore and Inferiore , each possessing its own administration , post- office etc. The whole of the surrounding district is the property of Baron Arezzo di Donnafugata, who possesses a cotton-spinning manufactory here. The neighbouring rocks contain numerous grottoes. Count Bernardo Cabrera (d. 1423), who boldly attempted to possess himself of the crown of Sicily, is interred in the church of the Capuchins. 16 * 244 25. MODICA. From (iirgenti ( 91/4 M.) Modica flS M. from Comiso) (Aoc. IkLLa Italia^ with good trattoria; Locanda of Maestro (iiorgio ^ near the Sotto Prefettura; Jjocanda Ntiova etc.), the capital (27,449 inhab.) of the ancient county of that name, is situated in a rocky valley, j consisting of two ravines which unite in the town. The height | between the two valleys affords a survey of the three different ' arms of the town , which itself contains nothing worthy of 1 mention. | From Modica by the Val d’Ispica to Palazzolo a journey of one day (2 mules 15 1., and 1 1. for the attendant), which should be commenced at sunrise ; provisions necessary. It is not necessary, as the guides sometimes assert, to return from the Val dTspica to Modica, in order to proceed to Palazzolo; nor can this circuit be easily accomplished in a single day. The road from Modica to Spaccaforna is quitted beyond the road which descends to Scicli and the traveller proceeds to the 1. by a rough road to the (6 M.) remarkable and picturesque * V(d dMspica, a rocky ravine 6 M. in length, in the limestone rock of which subterra- nean dwellings and tombs have been discovered. I The banks of the Mediterranean must’ have been peopled during a pre- I historical period by a race who excavated their dwellings in the rocks and deposited their dead in rocky niches (didieri). Caverns of this description ! have been discovered in Sardinia, the Balearic Islands, in the Cyrenaica and in Etruria. They occur in Sicily in considerable numbers in the S.E. angle of the island only, between Terranova and Syracuse; a few, however, have been found near Caltabelotta (di San Cono) and between Bronte and Maletto dei Giganti. They may perhaps be attributed to the Sicanians. At Sparano^ a spot between Noto and Palazzolo, a Druidical relic, or a species of Celtic d'olog has been discovered, which appears to favour the view that the Sicanians were of Celtic origin. The grottoes of the Val d'Ispica are the most numerous and present the greatest variety. Some of them manifestly served as habitations. They either consist of different stories, connected in the interior by circular apertures, or of single chambers, the entrances to which in the rock are more than the height of a man above the ground. Rings hewn in stone which are seen here probably served some purpose of domestic economy. Other archaeologists believe these grottoes merely to have constituted the Necropolis of some ancient city, and not to have been employed as dwellings until late in the Christian period. At the N.E. issue of the valley rises the so-called Castello dMspica , a rock completely honeycombed by grottoes. Others deserving mention are the Spelonca Grossaj Grotta del Corvo and del Vento. About 10 min. from the entrance, about half-way up the hill on the 1., stands a house where wine may be procured. Near it a rocky path ascends to the bridle-path which leads to Palazzolo Acreide (Locanda Centrale)^ one of the most inte- resting towns of Sicily, with 10,000 inhab. The custodian Sal- vatore Monelli (fee 2 — 3 1.) keeps the keys of the theatre etc. and shows the principal objects of interest in 4 — 5 hrs. Those to Syracuse. PALAZZOLO. 25. Route. 245 who commence the walk at daybreak may proceed on the same day by diligence to Syracuse. Dr. G. Italia-ISicastro is the most learned archaeologist in the place. ^'Axqch (Arabian el Akrdt , subsequently Placeolum , Balensul, now Palazzolo') was founded by the Syracusans in 664 on the site , it would appear , of a Phoenician settlement , and belonged ■ to the dominions of their city until the latter was conquered by Marcellus. The town apparently escaped destruction until the wars of the Saracens. The Acropolis and older portion of the town stood on the hill which rises above the modern town, and were accessible on the E. side only. This eminence is doubtless of volcanic origin, as volcanic products are found between the limestone rocks. (This district abounds in volcanic formations, especially apparent on the route from Vizzini to Buccheri and Buscemi.) The summit affords a fine view in every direction. The approach from the E. was protected by latomi®. Here tombs of all periods have been discovered, some of Greek origin with reliefs , others apparently of the Christian period. Then the so-called Tempio Ferale ; aqueducts; a small Theatre., looking to the N. , where on an eminence above a deep ravine the small town of Buscemi is visible. The theatre is of late Greek origin and contains 12 tiers of seats for 600 spectators. Ad- jacent to it the Odeon , or, according to others, a bath-esta- blishment. To the S. of the Acropolis rises the Monte Pineta ^vith numerous mortuary chambers of the so-called Didieri. In the Contrada dei Santicelli, a valley IV 2 M. to the S. of Pineta, are the remarkable bas-reliefs, unfortunately mutilated, of the '‘SantonP. They appear to have appertained to a burial-place; on most of them the figure of a goddess (supposed to be CybeleJ may be distinguished. Not far from this spot is an extensive burial-ground, Acrocoro detto della Torre, where some hundreds of sarcophagi have been opened. Many of them contained well preserved skulls. From E. to W. the skeletons of women were found to have been interred, from N. to S. those of men. A Phoenician inscription was also found here. — The collection of ancient vases etc. of Baron Judica (Palazzo Judica), who superin- tended the excavations on the Acropolis, is in a deplorably neglec- ted condition, and interesting to the professional only. The road from Palazzolo to Syracuse (28 M. ; dilig. daily about 10 a. m. , fare 3 1. 15 c.) traverses monotonous fields, sterile land and clumps of wood (di Madredonna and Giamhra). Bauli, another wood to the E. , is said to be still infested by wolves. A short distance beyond Monte Grosse , the first post- station, Syracuse becomes visible in the distance. The road leads through the small town of 8. Paolo , then through Floridia. Below Flo- ridia, on the r. side of the road is a ravine which the Athenians 246 I^ouie 25. NOTO. on their return from Syracuse under Nicias found obstructed, thus compelling them to turn towards the S. The towns to the 1. are Cassaro and Ferla. Farther towards the N. Sortino^ on an eminence. About 4 M. below Floridia, on a height to the 1. lies Belvedere., adjoining which are the ruins of Euryalus., the most W. fort of the Epipolai of Syracuse. From Mo die a to Syracuse by No to. Monotonous post-road by (llh 4 M.) Spaccaforno with 9000 inhah. and (33|4 M.) Rosolini to (8^12 M.) Noto. From Noto by (33|4 M.) Avota and (7h2 M,) Lungarino to (9i|2 M.) Syracuse. Noto {Aquila d'Oro, opp. the Dominican monastery, to the r., tolerable; Villa di Roma'), a ideasant and w^ealthy town with 13,000 inhab., contains handsome palaces of the provincial aristocracy. The fertile district of which this is the principal town comprises an area of 70 sq. M. The present town was founded in 1703 near the site of Netum, which was destroyed by an earthquake in 1693, and had been founded by the Sikelian prince Ducetius (about 450) on the site of a still more ancient town. Traces of the latter existed as late as the 16th cent, between Noto and Palazzolo, in the vicinity of the spot where Count Ruggiero founded the Benedictine abbey of S. Lucia (Bauli). Of the second Noto the ruins are still visible, i |4 M. from the present town. 4 M. to the S. of Noto, between the rivers Falconara {Asinaros) and Telluro {Heloros'), stands La Pizzuta, a fragment of a Greek column, about 30 ft. in height. It is said to be a remnant of the , monument erected by the Syracusans in the bed of the Asinarus after the sanguinary defeat of the Athenians under Nicias (July, 413). An excursion may be made from Noto by a carriage-road to (16 M.) Pacchino and the rugged promontory of Passero {Pachynum) with its is- ' lands, harbours {Porto d'Ulisse, Porto Palo), tunny- fisheries (tonnare) and the remains of the ancient city of Helorus on the 1. bank of the river, now called Stampaci. In ancient times the Via Helora led from Helorus to Syracuse. From Noto the road leads to Avola (11,000 inhab.), w'here almond-trees and the sugar-cane flourish, skirts the plain of the coast and crossing the river Cassihile (ancient Cacyparis), on the banks of which Demosthenes and 6000 Athenians sustained a defeat in 413, leads to Syracuse. To the r. is seen the Great Harbour , 1. the remains of the columns of the Olym- pieion. The road skirts the r. side of the harbour, passing a large heap of | reeds used by the potters, who have exercised their craft here since the i time of Dionysius I. When after the battle of Gela Dionysius penetrated j into the city by night and usurped the government he here destroyed the gate of Achradina by piling up and setting fire to bundles of the reeds I which he found in the vicinity. ! 26. From Girgenti to Castrogiovanni and Catania j by Caltanisetta. The road from Girgenti to Catania unites with the high road froni Palermo to Catania at S. Caterina (52i|2 M.). Distance to Castrogiovanni 75 M., to Catania 14()>|2 M. ; diligence daily, a railway projected. The long circuit descril)ed by the road may be avoided by those who travel on horse- back, thus: by Favara (3^14 M.), Castrofiip>po (5i|2 M.), Canicatti (7*12 M.). Caltanisetta (14 M.), Castrogiovanni (15 M.), i. c. only M. CALTANISET TV. 26. Route. 247 The road, leading towards the N. (see R. 27), is at first the high road from Girgenti to Palermo until the present route di- verges to the r. and ascends to Le Grotte (ancient Erbessus, whence in 262 the Romans procured provisions whilst besieging Agrigentum), a poor town (5000 inhab.), 12, M. from Girgenti. 3 M. farther Racalmuto (10,397 inhab.), then (10 M.) Canicatti. a town with 20,025 inhab. A carriage - road kads hence by Campohello di Lie at a with productive sulphur-mines, to Licata (diligence daily, 5 1. 85 c.). 9 M. farther the post-station Serra di Falco , a small town from which the author of the Antichita della Sicilia (Domen. lo Faso Pietrasanta Duca di Serradifalco) ^ derived his title (d. at Florence in 1833). This is the central point of the richest sulphur-district of Sicily. From this point the road leads by S. Cataldo, named after St. Oataldus of Taranto, seat of a marquisate with 10,000 inhab., to ( 91/2 ^0 Caltanisetta : (Locanda d^ Italia, in the Piazza del Collegio; Locanda Giordano; Aquila Neva), capital of the province with 20,411 inhab., con- taining little to interest the traveller. The monastery Badia di S. Spirito, 2 M. distant, erected by Roger I., is a fine specimen of the Norman style 5 on Whit-Monday a great national festival is celebrated here. 2 M. farther a mud -volcano, similar to the Maccaluba in the Terra Pilata. — A carriage-road is now in course of construction from Caltanisetta to Terranova by Pietraperzia (10,296 inhab.), Barrafranca (,8000 inhab.) and Mazzarino (10,782 inhab.). From Caltanisetta the road ascends to S. Caterina (13 M.) by Monte S. Giuliano (2250 ft.) and unites with the post-road. 27, From Girgenti to Palermo. Diligence daily in 20-22 hrs. ^ fare 201. 55 c. ^ distance 137 kilom = 8502 M. This route is not sufficiently attractive to arrest the traveller, who thus avoids the discomfort of spending a night at a bad inn. Diligence-passengers should procure a supply ot provisions before startin^,, as little refreshment can be obtained at the road-side inns. From Girgenti the road to the N. descends precipitously into the valley of the Drago until the cross-road at Spinasanta is reached; to the 1. Montaperto on an abrupt eminence; in the foreground Aragona with its ducal palace is visible. Of all the mountains the precipitous Pizzo di Cammarata (5075 ft.) is the most conspicuous and remains in sight during the greater part of the day. After a solitary post-house is passed and on the 1. Aragona, a possession of the Naselli family, the post-station of (12 M.) Comittini is reached. At this town and at Fayara, 5 M. to the E. of Girgenti, M. Ignazio Genuardi of Girgenti, the 248 l^oute 27. LEKCARA. From (jirgenti wealthiest proprietor of sulphur-mines in the island, possesses his principal mines. The administrator (il fattore) is an obliging man. From Aragona the road descends by numerous windings to the PlatanL The projected railway will here turn to the E. The mountain to the r. is the Pizzo di Sutcra^ on the summit of which stands a town with 3000 inhab. and a ruined castle. This town was called SoFir by the Arabians in 860, a name believed to be identical with ZuoTrjg. Others conjecture it to be Camicus, where Dccdalus erected a castle for Cocaius. The line across the river is employed in transmitting the mail-bags when the stream is so swollen as to be impassable for the diligence itself. The road now winds upwards to the lofty (14 M.) Casteltermini (Locanda of Luigi Livorsi), a town with 7000 inhab., who are chiefly engaged in the culture of the fertile environs. Those who ride, here leave Casteltermini to the 1. and ascend through the Passo Fonduto by the course of the Fiurtie di S. Pietro. (13 M.) .S'. Giovanni di Cammarata , post- station for Cam- rnarata, situated on the hill to the 1. (10,000 inhab.). To the 1. opens the beautiful basin of Castronuovo^ of which a charming view is enjoyed. Extensive quarries of variegated marble were worked here in ancient times. From the Case di Panepinto, where the- frontiers of the provinces of Girgenti, Caltanisetta and Palermo converge, the road ascends more rapidly, until near Lercara it attains the culminating point between the Ionian and Tyrrhenian seas. (12 M.) Lercara (Locanda dTtalia, on the 1. side of the street near the post-office, bad), a town of evil reputation with 8000 in- habitants ; in the vicinity are the most northern sulphur-mines of the island. From this point the road descends until it reaches the great trunk-road (see p. 250) at Mangonaro. From Palermo to Sciacca by Cor leone (71 M.). The road is not yet entirely completed and is traversed by a diligence as far as Corleone only. As it presents few objects of interest either in a natural or historical point of view, the following slight sketch will suffice. Palermo is quitted by the Porta Nuova , the Largo dell’ Indipendenza crossed and the Strada Pisani followed , Mdiich leads to the Lunatic Asylum and crosses the Oreto. The road then ascends to Parco., where William II. once possessed his ex- tensive hunting preserves. Thence Garibaldi accomplished his celebrated detour round the mounlains towards the E., whilst General v. Mecheln with his Swiss troops pursued the Sicilian piciotti as far as Corleone. The view of Palermo from the height above Parco is one of the most magnificent in hicily. Piano dei dreci (9 M.), an Albanian colony, established in 1488, is next reached. The pecularities of the language and customs of the town are gradually becoming extinct; the inhabitants are notorious for their predatory propensities. Tlie road then ascends a long and dreary valley. In front tlie mountain-ridge of Jiusambra lies in an oblique direction, with llic^ wf)od,s of (Jappelliere towards the E. Above the latter, which were seriously injured by a conflagration a few years ago, rises the hunting-seat to Palermo. CORLEONE. 27. Route. 249 Ficuzza, to which Ferdinand IV. frequently resorted when in Sicily in order to indulge in the pleasures of the chase. Another road ascends hither from Ogliastro. ^ The road to Corleone descends by numerous windings, after having quitted the height where the ruins of the Saracenic stronghold Kalata Busamara are situated. Corleone {Locanda Grande., in the Piazza, bad), with 14,600 inhab., is i a town of Saracenic origin, where in 1237 Frederick II. established a Lorn ibard colony. Its inhabitants were therefore the most strenuous opponents jof the house of Anjou and at the present day retain their predilection for |the Bourbons. r: From Corleone a carriage-road, skirting the cliffs of Monte de'' Cavalli land Monte Barucu, leads to Busacchino (9000 inhab.) and (14 M.) Chiusa 1(7000 inhab.). Here the road divides. To the r. the road leads to Oiuliana and Samhucca^ a well-built town with 9000 inhab., which under the name jof Rahal Zdbutli appertained to the monastery of Monreale in 1185. Farther to the r. of the latter are situated Contessa., an Albanian settlement, and the ruins of Entella on the bank of the Bellici Sinistro, 5 M. from Contessa and .accessible from the S.E. only. Entella was a Sicanian town of which mention is made in the Trojan-Sicilian myths. In 403 it was taken by sur- ;prise by the Campanian mercenary troops of Dionysius I. In consequence 'of a rebellion of the Saracenic population in 1223, Frederick II. transplanted 'them to Nocera de’ Papni in Campania. From Sambucca the road proceeds W. to Sella- Misilihesi., where it unites with the road from Partanna (11,000 inhab.) and S. Margherita (8500 inhab.), and then E. to Sciacca (p. 234). From Chiusa the branch of the road to the 1. follows the valley of the river to Caltabelotta (p. 235). 28. From Palermo to Catania through the interior of the island. Distance 156ij‘2 M., generally accomplished by the diligence in 34 hrs. After rainy weather enquiry may be made whether the rivers are passable. -In order to visit Castrogiovanni the traveller proceeds to Misericordia ]?( 86 i |2 M.) in about 20 hrs. ; fare 21 1. 67 c. He may either continue his route thence by diligence, or ride by the Lago Pergusa and Piazza to Caltagirone, and there avail himself of the diligence to Catania (see p. 255). Provisions for the journey must not be forgotten. The road leads E. by Abate and Portella di Mare at the base jOf Monte Griff one., Gibelrosso and Buongiorno to ( 71/2 ^0 Misilmeri, a notorious harbour of banditti (10,000 in- habitants), where the diligence is provided with an escort. The road now ascends and quits the valley of the Flume de^ Mirti, jor valley of Ficarazzi , beyond Ogliastro , another town (2000 in- habitants) of evil reputation. Between Ogliastro and the post- ;;station (11 1/4 M.) Villa frati are situated the Bagni di Cifali (Arabic Gefaki), at the base of a lofty conical mountain surmounted by the Gastello di Diana (Kalata Gefala), where an ancient arabic in- scription has been discovered. The temperature of the water is 102^ Fahr. On the hill to the r. lies Mezzojuso, one of the four 250 28 . yiLLAUOSA. From Palermo Albanian colonies (^Piano dei Greet , Palazzo Adriano , Contessa are the others) which have been established here since 1482. j The Arabic name of the village is Menzil - Jussuf (village of Jo- i seph). The road now skirts the Flume di S. Lionardo , whicli ! falls into the sea near Termini, and leads to the bridge of I (7^2 M.) Vicari, below the town (4000 inhab.) of that name. In the fort of Yicari Giovanni di S. Remigio, the French gover- nor of the island, who had fled hither after the Sicil. Vespers, was besieged by the inhabitants of Palermo who had pursued him, and put to death. At the solitary post -station of Mangonaro, 191/2 M. from Palermo, the road divides. To the r. ascends the I Via Lercara to Girgenti, to the 1. the Via delle Montague leads I to Catania. The post -station of (71/2 M.) Alia (4000 inhab.), which lies on an abrupt height to the 1., is situated below the town, beyond which a dreary, un- inhabited district is traversed as far as the post-station La Gulfa. This tract of land belongs almost exclusively to the Principe Vil- larosa. Thence to the small town of (71/2 M.) Vallalunga (5000 inhab.). The country becomes wilder. To the r. towers the Monte Campanaro , in the back- ground the Madonian Mts. The Fiumicello , an affluent of the Platani, is now crossed and the base of the Monte Mimiano skir- ted on the 1., beyond which lies the solitary post-station of (III/4 M.) Landro. The road then ascends the Monte Mucini. : and in the distance , beyond vast fields of wheat , the indented 1 peaks of Castrogiovanni and Calascibetta become visible. This view is one of the most extensive in the interior of the island. (71/2 M.) S. Caterina is a small and miserable town, the innsj of which none but the diligence-conductors consider tolerable. The, road to Caltanisetta and Girgenti (R. 26) diverges here. Between i 8. Caterina and (11 1/4 M.) Villarosa flows the Flume S also ( Himera meridiona- \ Us). If the river is swollen the diligence proceeds no farther, but is occasionally dragged across with the aid of the “Maranguni”. the powerful, semi-nude custodians of the ford (fee in this case expected). Villarosa is a pleasant looking town ; valuable sulphur- mines in the vicinity. Thence to the solitary post-station (IOV4 M.) Misericordia. The railway from Palermo to Catania (155 M.) ^vill ascend to the 8. of this route from Campofranco by the course of the Sa- lilOj penetrate the watershed between Fiume Platani and F. Salso^ by a tunnel between Caltanisetta and 8. Caterina, then traversei the Vallone del Fico, enter the valley of the Dittaino (Simeto) by to Catania. CASTROGIOYANNI. 28. Route. 251 1 tunnel near Castrogiovanni and proceed by Catenanuova to Oatania. Castrogiovanni (several miserable inns , one of which is kept by Mariano Buono. The traveller should endeavour to procure in introduction to some resident here), the Arabic Kasr-Janni^ a corruption of Enna, is situated on the summit of a mountain ■^2856 ft.) which is ascended from Misericordia in 1 hr. Cicero describes this locality, and Livy terms it “inexpugnabilis”, facts jvvhicli alone tend to prove the important place occupied by Enna in the pages of Sicilian history. With this mountain, the myths of the most ancient inhabitants were intimately connected. Here the worship of the iDemeter-Cora of the aborigines had its principal seat , and here Gelon erected a magnificent temple after the battle of Himera in 480. Enna was founded by Syracuse in 664, and participated in all the vicissitudes of its mother-city. In 403 it fell by treachery into the hands of Dionysius I. ; his son took it by surprise ^ Agathocles also possessed himself of the town ^ in the first Punic war it was captured by the Car- ;thaginians and finally was betrayed to the Romans. When the slaves under Ennus had thrown themselves into Enna the Romans regained possession of the place only after a fierce struggle. The siege lasted during two years (133—132), and to this day Roman missiles are found at the approach to Castrogiovanni where the ascent is most gradual. The besieged were reduced by famine rather than by force of arms. In 837 the Saracens in vain endeavoured to storm the town, to which the inlmbitants of the entire surrounding district had fled for refuge. In 859 Abbas-ibn-Fahdl obtained , possession of the fortress through treachery, a prisoner having introduced The Arabians into the town by means of a canal on the N. side. The booty was enormous. The women were sent as' slaves as far as Bagdad. In 1080 the Normans took the town. In the middle ages it was again partially fortified. The town is now in a most dilapidated condition and numbers 14,084 inhabitants in poor circumstances. The fertility of the soil is greatly inferior to what it was in ancient times , when dense forests , brooks and lakes converted this district into a luxuriant garden, where the hounds, it is said, lost the scent ot their game amid the fragrance of the flowers, and the fields yielded a hundredfold. Not a vestige is now left of the celebrated temples of Demeter (Ceres) and Proserpine. The former is supposed to have stood where the ruins of the castle of Frederick II. are situated, at the E. extremity of the plateau. The temple of Persephone is seen on the Monte Salvo , near the convent of the Padri Riformati. The *view is one of the finest in Sicily: the spectator stands at the central point of the island (Enna was termed the “umbilicus'’ of Sicily). Towards the E. towers the pyramid of ^tna; to the N. two mountain-chains, ramifications of the Nebrodi; towards N.N.E. Monte Artesino (3731 ft.) beyond the hill of Calascibetta. On the upper prolongation of the latter lie Leonforte and S. Fi- lippo. Between the two, more in the background, Troina (3451 ft.). More towards the E. Centorbi. In an extensive 252 I^oute 2S. S. FILIPPO D’ARGIKO. From Palermo basin towards N.N.W. , on a precipitous ridge between Monte Artesino and the Madonian Mts. , Petralia Soprana and Ganci. To the N.W. , S. Calogero near Termini is visible; to the W. the Pizzo di Cammarata and to the S. the Ilerican Mts. The I small town of Calascibetta ( 5500 inhabitants ) , situated on ' another isolated mountain (2407 ft.) to the N. , was founded in 1080. From Misericordia (p. 250) the road descends into the valley of the Dittaino ( Chrysas) and again ascends to (111/4 M.) Leon forte (Cafe to the 1. as the town is entered). Here a road diverges to ATcos/a, an episcopal town of an entirely mediceval aspect with a Lombard population, and Termini (p. 256). The castle of Asaro (Assorus, a Sikelian town) remains on the 1. and the road leads by IMssoria into the valley of the Flume Salso^ an affluent of the Simeto. Here is situated (81/2 M.) S. Filippo d'Argiro, now an insignificant place with 7500 inhab. , but one of the most ancient Sikelian cities in the island (Ayyrium'). The historian Diodorus gives an account of this his native town, and relates how Hercules visited it in the course of his wanderings with Jolaus and was here worshipped. It appears from this that a Phoenician colony existed here at a very remote period. Timoleon colonized the town in 339 and , erected an agora, temple and handsome theatre, | of which not a : trace remains. St. Philip, whose festival is here celebrated on ' May 1st, has long superseded Hercules as the guardian deity of the place. Beautiful fragments of marble are frequently found in the vicinity. The road leads hence to (91/2 M.) Regalhuto. In the valley below lies Gagliano ^ the ; commandant of which Montaner di Sosa in 1300 lured the French , under the Count of Brienne into an ambuscade, so that 300 j Irench knights, M Cavalieri della Morte’’ were captured or put to ‘ the sword. High above Gagliano lies Troina (3451 ft.), the most elevated of the more considerable towns of Sicily (9500 inhab.). This was one of the first towns of which in 1062 the Normans obtained possession. Here in 1063 Roger de Hauteville with his heroic wife Giuditta (Judith of Evroult) conquered the rebellious inhabitants and 5000 Saracens with a chosen band of 300 war- riors. The Normans were so needy at that period that Roger and Judith are said to have possessed only a single mantle. The bishopric founded here was transferred to Messina in 1087. The Basilian monastery was founded by Roger. The first abbot was ids brother-in-law Robert of Evroult. In the Matrice S. Maria, traces of the ancient Norman structure may be distinguished. To the r. on an abrupt eminence above the valley of the Si- meto rises Centorhl (Albergo della Pace, in the piazza, very poor), to Catania. ADERNO. 28. Route. 253 with 6000 inhab. In ancient times the situation of Centuripae was compared with that of Eryx. Magnificent view of ^Etna. During the Roman period this was an important place (Celsus was born here). In 1233 it was destroyed by Frederick II. on account of its disaffection and the population removed to Agosta p. 289). Considerable remains of the ancient town-wall are pre- served. Numerous vases , terracottas , coins and cut stones have been found in the neighbourhood. Antonio Camerano possesses a fine collection of gems and terracottas. An introduction to the fSindaco Emanuele lo Giudice desirable. The notary Francesco Camerano frequently accompanies visitors to the antiquities. Most of the vases in the Museum Biscari at Catania are from this locality. In the valley of the Simeto the lava-streams of ^tna are first encountered, the oldest of which dates from 1010. About 1/2 above the bridge now in the course of construction are situated the remains of a Roman aqueduct (Ponte Carcaci), probably dating from the period of the Servile Avar. From the Ponte and Fondaco de" Maccaroni the road ascends to (2^/4 M.) the lowest terrace of Mt. ^tna on which lies (14 M.) Aderno (Locanda delV Aquila , in the Piazza del Castello ; the landlord is a physician and ancient burgomaster of the tOAvn ; Loc. della Fenice ; * Cafe della Sicilia , in the Piazza del Castello), a wealthy town with 12,000 inhabitants. Sig. Evange- lista Guarnieri, the pretore of the town, may be applied to in case of emergency. In the Piazza stands the quadrangular Nor- man castle erected by Roger I. It now serves as a prison; the in- ferior is in a very dilapidated condition. In the chapel are seen re- mains of frescoes representing Adelasia, grand-daughter of Roger I., taking the veil. The monastery of S. Lucia, nearly opposite, Avas founded by Roger in 1157. In ancient times the Sikelian city of Hadranum stood here, celebrated on account of its temple of Zeus Adraiios which was guarded by 1000 dogs. Fragments of this ^ structure, probably of the cella , are shown in the garden of Sal- vatore Palermo at a place called Cartellemi , on the r. outside of the toAvn. This was the central point from which Timoleon ex- pended his pOAver , after he had conquered Hicetas of Syracuse near Schitino between Paterno and Aderno. — An excursion to Centorbi (IIV4 ^0 accomplished hence in one day, if the trav^eller starts at an early hour (mule 2^/2 — 31/2 I-)- The road now descends from Aderno to the town of (2 M.) Biancavilla, Avith 10,000 inhabitants, some of whom are of Albanian origin. The best cotton of Sicily receives its name from this place. Then 254 28 . PATEHNO. From Palermo (8V2 Maria di Licodia., near ^vhicll the town of Etna., founded by Hiero, on which occasion .d^schylus composed his tra- gedy At AiTi'cnoi , is said to have stood. Hetween Licodia and Paterno, on the r., 1 M. below Licodia, is the commencement of the Roman aqueduct to Catania. (II /4 M.) Paterno {Locamla di Sicilia., tolerable; Alhergo della Fenice., with cafe, clean), on the site of the former Sikelian town of Hyhla Minor ^ founded by Roger L, who in 1073 erected the castle above the town, now contains 14,000 inhabitants who be- long almost exclusively to the working classes, the landed pro- prietors having retired to Catania to escape the malaria which prevails here. The square tower of the castle, like those of Aderno and Motta, is now employed as a prison. Around this stronghold on the hill the former town was situated , where now the Matrice , Cathedral and Capuchin and Franciscan monasteries (fine view of the valley) alone stand. Hybla became completely Hellenized at so early a period that it was the only Sikelian town which did not participate in the insurrection against the Greeks in 450 under Ducetius. In 415 the territory of the town was devastated by the Athenians. The ancient road between Catania and Centuripse passed by Paternd. Two arches of the bridge over the Simeto are still standing, ^tna was first ascended from this point in ancient times. In the Contrada di Bella Cortina , in the direction of the mountain, remains of baths have been discovered. In the vicinity is the Grotto del Fracasso through which an impetuous subterranean stream flows. To the N.E. of Paterno, on the slopes of JEtna, lies the town of Belpasso (9000 inhab.), destroyed by an eruption in 1669 and subsequently re-erected on a new site (Mezzocampo). Here the air was found to be unhealthy, in consequence of which the inhabitants quitted the place and re-built their town on its i original site, where it now stands. By making a circuit round the Monti Rossi the traveller may from this point reach Nicolosi 1 (p. 283), whence ^tna is most conveniently ascended. Before the descent is made to Misterbianco, the last town be- | fore Catania is reached, a road diverges to the r. to Motta Santa \ Anastasia , a town with a castle situated on a precipitous basaltic I cone, rising above the Piano di Catania (beautiful view). In the ! tower of this castle Bernardo Cabrera (comp. p. 243), the supreme i judge of Sicily, was confined by the aristocratic party in 1410 I and treated with great cruelty. From Motta the high road may I be regained near Misterbianco if the valley to the r. be traversed. | To the 1. before the main road is reached, near Erhe Blanche., are seen the fragments of a Roman building and a few hundred feet farther the remains of baths, called Damiisi. to Catania. CALTAGIllONE. 28. Route. 255 ( 101/4 M.) Misterhianco, a town with 5000 inhab., was destroyed in 1669. To the r. Montecardillo , the S.E. crater of the ^tna ■group, rises above the plain. Crossing the lava-stream of 1669 land passing through the Porta del Fortino ^ the traveller now enters the town of ( 33/4 M.) Catania (p. 278). From C as tr 0 g io V arini to Catania by C al tag ir 0 tie. From Castrogiovanni to Caltagirone 30 M. The bridle-path, passing ' numerous grottoes and caverns, descends to the S. In 2 hrs. the Lago Per- gusa is reached, the fabled locality whence Pluto carried off Proserpine, i Of the shady and lofty trees, the fragrant flowers on the hanks of the lake covered with swans and the “perpetuum ver” of Ovid not a symptom remains. The lake, like the neighbouring Stagnicello, is a dirty pond em- ployed by the inhabitants in the preparation ot flax. From the lake to Piazza (Sicil. Chiazza) a ride of 13 M. (Albergo delT : Aquila Nera). Before Piazza is reached the bridle-path unites with the . carriage-road which leads (42 M.) from Caltanisetta by Pietraperzia (1296 ft.) and Barrafranca to Piazza. The traveller now proceeds S. by this road to S. Cono., where it divides, leading to Terranova to the r. and ascending to the 1. by 8 . Michele to (14 M.) Caltagirone (24,417 inhab.), considered the most civilised provincial town in Sicily. Although 2038 ft. above the sea-level , it is well-built and possesses a fine promenade and handsome market-place, whence a lofty stair-case ascends to the castle. The aristocracy of the place is said to be r zealous in promoting public instruction etc.^ Pottery is the staple com- modity of the town, and extremely chaYacteristic, well-executed figures of ' Sicilians, Calabrians etc. in their national costumes may be purchased. J Giuseppe Buongiovanni is one of the best manufacturers.^ The situation of f the town is healthy, and a magnificent view is enjoyed in every direction. From Caltagirone diligence to Catania in 10 hrs. (51 M.). On the mountain-range to the r. lie the towns of Grammichele^ Mineo., founded by Ducetius and in 840 taken by the Saracens, and Militello. !Near Favarotta the road passes the celebrated Lacus Palicorum {Lago di Palizi)., usually , 450-500 ft. in circumference and 14 ft. in depth. In dry seasons it occasion- ally disappears entirely. Two apertures {fratres Palici) in the centre emit ' carbonic acid gas with such force that the water is forced upwards to a : height of 2 ft. and the whole surface is agitated as if boiling. Birds are suffocated in attempting to fly across the lake, horses and oxen experience a difficulty in breathing as soon as they enter the water. The ancients regarded the spot as sacred and the peculiar resort of the gods. The Dii Palici were believed to be sons of Zeus and the nymph Thalia. A sump- tuous temple was accordingly erected here, to which the pious flocked from t all quarters. The historian Fazello mentions the ruins of this edifice as '1 having existed in the 16th cent., but every vestige of them has now dis- appeared. Fugitive slaves found an asylum in this temple. An oath sworn whilst the hand was held opposite the orifice whence the gas is^ed was deemed peculiarly solemn. At no great distance from this spot Ducetius founded the town of Palica which has also left no trace of its existence. The name, however, may still be recognised in Patagonia (4500 inhab.), a small mediaeval town, once the property of the celebrated Catalanian i^^val hero Roger Loria. Below Palagonia the road ascends to the Fondaco Tre Fontane; r. lies Bcordia, which yields the best oranges in Sicily. The road then proceeds to the 1. of the Biviere di Lentini., running parallel with the I Fiume Gurnalunga, and unites with the road from Catania to Syracuse. 256 29. From Palermo to Messina by Termini, Cefalu, Patti and Melazzo. Althougli this road has been in i)rocess of construction for upwards of a century, it is not yet conipleted. In 1T3(» Charles III. formed llie plan of constructing a network of roads throughout the entire island, and Cf)m- menced with the road from Palermo to Termini. Put the nobility, dreading the result which might ensue from the facilities of communication thus afforded to the peasantry, found means to prevent the execution of the project. A century later the work was recommenced, but notwithstanding the energetic measures of government the road is now completed only from Palermo to (58 M.) Finale (Cefalii) and from Messina to (78 M.) S. Agata. The journey from Cefalu to (42 M.) S. Agata must therefore be performed on horseback. Entire distance 165 M. Railway to Termini (comp. p. 218), 3 trains daily in hr. (fares 41. 15, 21. 90, 21. 10 c.), in correspondence with which a diligence and periodica run to Cefalu (22i|2 M.). The steamers between Palermo and Messina touch once weeklv at Cefalu, S. Stefano, Melazzo and Lipari. Diligence from S. Agata to‘ Messina. On horseback the journey occupies 7 days, if a visit to Termini, Himera and Tyndaris be contemplated, but it is preferable to employ the public conveyances if pos- sible. By railway to Termini, and on the same day on horseback to Cefalii. Thence to S. Stefano di Camastra 1 day, S. Agata 1, Patti 1, Melazzo 1, Messina 1 day. By leaving S. Stefano early in the morning and proceeding from S. Agata by carriage, the traveller may without losing much reach Patti the same day. This entire route is one of the most attractive in Sicily. The road from Palermo to Termini intersects the fruitful plain of the coast and leads to the Bagaria (see environs of Palermo, p. 2J8). The railway proceeds thence between the mountains and the sea, passing through several small tunnels and running parallel to the road. To the 1. on the mountain (14 M. from Palermo) Altavilla^ possessing one of the earliest Norman churches, founded by Robert Guiscard in 1277, the so-called La Chiesazza. Several tonnare (apparatus for the capture of the tunny-flsh) are observed in the sea. When in May a red flag is hoisted near them , this is a signal that a shoal is approaching or has entered the nets, soon after which the slaughter commences. Between Trabia (3000 inhab.), to the 1., and Termini a tunnel is passed through and the Flame S. Lionardo crossed. (22^2 M') Termini {Locanda Minerva^ on the E. slope of the mountain ; Nobile Locanda della Fenice , with trattoria , near the town-gate), popul. 25,780, situated on the summit and two sides of a promontory, presents an uninviting appearance to travellers coming from Palermo. The residence sof the nobility are exclu- sively in the upper part of the town 5 on the E. side those of the mercantile portion of the community. The maccaroni (pasta) of Termini is considered the best in Sicily. Termini (^Thermae Hirnerenses), probably the site of an ancient Phamician settlement, was founded in 407 after the destruction of Himera by the Carthaginians, who maintained themselves here till HIMERA. 29. Boute. 257 they were expelled by the Romans in 252. Under the Roman supremacy the town prospered, and during the middle ages was a place of considerable importance. The attack of Robert of Naples on Sicily in 1338 expended its fury in vain against the walls of the stronghold of Termini, which was destroyed in 1860. Among the antiquities may be mentioned the foundations of a Roman structure in the Villa della Citta in the Piano di S. Gio- A'anni above the town, whence a fine view is enjoyed; also curia jand baths (?), recently excavated , and the remains of an amphi- theatre. The Aqua Cornelia^ a Roman aqueduct, S.E. of the Town, was destroyed in 1438. The ruins from Brucato downwards deserve a visit on account of the remarkable fertility of the soil in their vicinity. The Liceo contains a collection of antiquities, comprising some fine vases, most of them found in the neigh- .bourhood (the key is kept by Sig. S. Ciofalo, the librarian of the museum). The Sindaco Baron Janelli also possesses a collection, to which travellers are readily admitted. Giuseppe di Giorgi is a vendor of antiquities. Niccolo Palmieri, the Sicilian political economist and historian, was born at Termini and was interred in the Chiesa del Monte. The bath-establishment, on the E. side of the mountain , is well fitted up and supplied with chalybeate as w'ell as sulphureous water (106 ^ Fahr.}. Pindar extols the baths of Thermae Himerenses. On a rocky slope above the Fiume S. Lionardo , 4 M. from Termini, lies the town of Caccamo (7000 inhab.). Beautiful prospect. The Monte San Calogero (2803 ft.), an abrupt cone commanding a magnificent view, is ascended thence. The road to Cefalh skirts the base of this mountain, traversing the fertile plain of the coast. Beyond the mountain the district becomes barren and destitute of trees and is, as its aspect betokens, ren- dered unhealthy by malaria. The road crosses the valley of the Flume Torto and soon reaches Bonfornello , a solitary farmhouse. The houses on the 1. stand on the ruins of a Doric temple which has not yet been excavated. On the height to the r. lay Himera, the most western town of the Greeks in Sicily, birth- place (about 630) of Stesichorus, originally called Tisias, the per- fecter of the Greek chorus. If the abrupt hills, overgrown with sumach, be ascended, a table-land is reached which gradually slo- pes downward from the small town of La Signora. To the E. flows the Himera Septentrionalis or Fiume Grande; on the W. a small valley', in wUich tombs have been discovered, separates the town from the plateau. To the N. the hills descend precipitously to the plain of the coast; on this side the town was defended by massive walls. It was founded in 648 by Zancheans, and on their behalf one of the greatest battles ever fought by the Greeks Baedekek. Italy ni. 2d. Edition. 17 258 CEFALU. From Palermo took place when in 480 Gelon and Theron surprised the Cartha- ginian Haniilcar, ^vho was engaged in besieging the town, and annihilated his army. He himself sought a voluntary death in the sacrificial fire, in order to appease the wrath of the gods. The battle was probably earlier than tliat of Salarais , although Greek historians have stated that both were fought on the same day. In 409, however, Hannibal Gisgon , grandson of Hamilcar, conquered the town and razed it to the ground, after the greater number of the inhabitants had abandoned it by night. No attempt to re- erect it has since been made- In the valley of the Flume Grande^ which with the Fiume SaLso bisects the island and has frequently formed a political frontier (under the Romans and under Frederick H.), the railway is now in process of construction towards the S., along the 1. arm of the river, as far as the vicinity of Lercara^ wliere it penetrates the Nehrodi by a tunnel and descends by the San Pietro. By the r. arm of the river the road ascends to Nicosia (p. 252). Beyond the Flame Salso the straight and monotonous road tra- verses a district in which malaria prevails (the traveller should beware of falling asleep). Then to the r. beautiful glimpses of the fissured valleys of the Madonia Mts. near Roccella. Farther up in the valley traversed by the brook lies Collesano , a town which possesses remnants of walls and buildings of an unknown period. To the r. in the angle of the mountain basis rises the Pizzo di Mofera (4408 ft.), 1. the Pizzo di Palermo (5510 ft.). Below Lascari and Gratteri and finally below Gibilmanna, i. e. the manna-mountain, the road leads through a beautiful, cultivated district to Cefalu. In the vicinity considerable quantities of manna are obtained from the exudations of the manna - tree (fraxinus ornus). ( 221/2 M.) Cefalfi {Locanda in the market-place without sign, to the r. when seen from the cathedral, in the palace of Baron 1 S. Anastasio, tolerable; *TrafioWa opposite), Cephaloedium, athri-i ving town of 10,855 inhabitants, who are engaged in commerce,; navigation and the sardine fishery , is situated at the base of aj barren promontory which rises abruptly from the sea on the S. side and on which the ancient town stood. The limestone rock, consisting almost entirely of fossils, which towers above the town, bears the fragments of a medicBval stronghold and the remains of one of those polygonal structures usually termed Pelasgic. Thisi appears to have been a species of treasury, to which during the Roman period a vault was added and subsequently converted into a Christian place of worship. The summit commands a magni- ficent prospect of the N. coast and the lofty mountains. The town was taken in 397 in the wars between Dionysius I. and Cartilage. Occasional mention is made of it in the Roman to Messina. FINALE. 29. Route. 259 period. In 837 it was unsuccessfully besieged by the Arabians, but captured by them in 858. When in 1129 King Roger was returning from Naples and his vessel was in imminent danger of ishipwreck , he is said to have vowed to erect a church to Christ and the Apostles on the spot where he should be permitted to [land. The vessel was driven ashore at Oefalu and he accordingly here commenced the construction of a handsome cathedral. The document relating to the foundation, dating from 1145, which is ptill preserved in the episcopal archives , contains however no allusion to the above circumstance. The * Cathedral , a noble monument of Norman architecture, lies to the W. of the promontory, and around it the modern town has sprung up. Two imposing towers of four stories flank the facade and are connected by a colonnade , recalling the huge to- wers of St. Etienne at Caen erected by William the Conqueror. The walls of the colonnade were entirely covered with mosaics, representing the instrumentality of Roger and his successors in the construction of the edifice. Of these no trace now exists. The W. entrance is coeval Avith the foundation. The portal is of unique construction. The apses are externally decorated, the re- mainder of the exterior is plain. The church, built in the form of a Latin cross , possesses a nave , two aisles and three apses ; nave double the width of the aisles,. Length 230 , width 90 ft. ^The pointed vaulting of the nave and aisles is supported by 15 columns of granite and 1 of cipolline. The * Mosaics in the tri- bune are the most ancient and perfect in Sicily, and most resemble those preserved in the monasteries on Mt. Athos. The beautifully executed figure of the Saviour Avas completed in 1148. A number of other figures, Mary Avith four archangels, prophets and saints, appear from their selection to have been the Avork of Greek artists. Tavo of the sarcophagi of porphyry now in the cathedral of Palermo once stood in the transepts. Frederick II. caused them to be transferred to Palermo in 1209, during the absence of the bishop Giovanni on a mission to the sultan of Damascus. On the return of the latter he indignantly excommunicated the emperor for this act of spoliation , but was subsequently appeased by a grant of 3and. The fine Cloisters adjoining the church are similar to those at Monreale, but in an inferior state of preservation. , The heirs of the late Baron Mandralisca possess a small col- lection of antiquities Avhich embraces almost all the objects of interest found in the island of Lipari. The road from Cefalu to (IIV 4 ^0 on the Flume di Pollina., the ancient Monalus^ is noAv completed. The small town of Pollina (2376 ft.) is believed to be the ancient Apollonia which : Timoleon delivered from its Tyrant Leptines. 17 * 2G0 Route 2,9. ACQUA DOLCK. From Palermo Near Tusa^ b ^/2 M. farther, on an eminence to the E. , ]a> Alaesa^ founded in 403 by the Tyrant Archenides of Herbita. The town was a place of importance under the Romans; its ruins arej 2 M. in circumference. It is skirted by the Alesus^ now Fiiime\ di Fettineo. The road crosses this river and then the Flame Re- gitano , in the valley of which the provincial town of Mistreita (10,390 inhab.), the Amestratus of the ancients, greatly enlarged and embellished since 1860, is situated. Farther on, 221/2 M. from Cefalu, S. Slefano di Camastra] (Nuova Locanda and another, both tolerable), with 3,o00 inhab., is situated on an eminence by the sea. On the W. side of the town a fine view of the environs , the sea and the valley below is enjoyed. Cheese manufactured from sheep’s milk (caccio ca- vallo) and wool are exported hence in considerable quantities. Between S. Stefano and (193/4 M.) S. Agata is situated thej Bosco di Caronia^ the most extensive forest in Sicily. The road' crosses numerous brooks and is bordered by the myrtle, mastix and cistus-rose. After the Marina of Caronia ( 0^/4 M. from S. Stefano), the Calacte ('‘beautiful shore”) founded by Ducetius in 440, is passed, the Fiumara of S. Fratello or Furiano is reached, where in summer the traveller might imagine himself surroundedj by a forest of oleanders. The town of S. Fratello (6000 inhab.), 4^/4 M. inland, is one| of the Lombard colonies which accompanied Adelaide of Monferrat, wife of Roger I., hither. Others established themselves at Piazza, Nicosia, Aidone, Randazzo, Sperlinga, Capizzi, Maniace etc. The Lombard dialect is still spoken at S. Fratello, Piazza, Nicosia and Aidone. Near S. Fratello is the grotto of San Teodoro, containing fossil bones of many different species of mammalia. In the vicinity of Acqua Dolce (IIV 4 Irom Caronia) lay the town of Aluntium , of which nothing more is known tham the allusion to it made by Cicero in his oration against Verres. At the small town of (3 M.) S. Agata (poor inn on the r.) the carriage-road recommences. Here a post-conveyance may be ob- tained (to Patti, 30 M., 28 1. 5 c.). The road crosses the beds ol numerous torrents, in the first of which , the Rosamarina , bordered by oleanders, are the fragments of a Roman bridge. To the r. lies S. Marco, probably the ancient Agathyrnum. The ruins of a mediaeval palace in the Fiumara Zapulla are next passed. Betw’eeii the mouth of this torrent and Capo Orlando was fought, July 4th, 1299, the great naval battle in which Frederick II. was defeated by the united fleets of Catalonia and Anjou under Roger Loria. On the height to the r. in front of the traveller the small town of Naso is visible, where the silk -culture is extensively carried' on. The entire district resembles a luxuriant orchard. As soon to Messina. PATTI. 29. Route. 261 as Capo Orlando , however , is passed , the aspect of the country is changed. Here the mountains rise abruptly from the sea. Capo Orlando is 100 M. distant from Palermo, which in clear weather ,,is visible from the extremity of the promontory. The broad Fiumara of Naso and the picturesque Brolo^ with the small town of that name, are next reached; then Piraino. The traveller may [proceed direct hence by Sorrentini to Patti and thus considerably shorten his journey. The mountain , however , to be traversed is jlofty (2779 ft.), whilst the coast-route by Capo Calava is remar- 'kably picturesque. The road ascends from a valley to Giojosa (Sicil. Giujusa; [4000 inhab.), then rises to a considerable height above the sea, winding round the abrupt granite promontory of Calavh^ which it penetrates by a short tunnel, and descends to the Marina of Patti, whence it again ascends through an avenue of pepper-trees to the town with its extensive monasteries. Patti (1. of the road the •small locanda of Antonino Arrigo ; Locanda Nuova. inferior), with 7000 inhab. , notwithstanding its fine situation on the mountain, is unhealthy. In the modernized Cathedral, Adelasia, mother of King Roger and widow of Count Roger and of King Baldwin of Jerusalem, is interred. The wealthiest family in this district is that of the barons of Sciacca, who possess a beautiful chateau on the Scala, 3 M. to the N. of Patti. To the same family the environs of Tyndaris belong. From Patti to Messina direct 44 M., to Melazzo 27 M. The road to Melazzo ( 52/4 M. from Patti) now ascends. The promontory to the 1. with the Pizzo di Mongio (Monte Giove) was formerly the site of the towri of Tyndaris (small locanda on the 'road -side), one of the latest Greek colonies in Sicily, lounded in 396 by Dionysius I. with Locrians and Peloponnesian Messe- nians. It soon rose to prosperity, at an early period became allied to Timoleon and remained faithful to the Romans during the Punic wars. It was therefore favoured by the Romans and attained to great power and Avealth. Its inhabitants were the -first who opposed Verres and engaged Cicero as their represen- tative. During the Christian period it became the seat of a bishop. ^ The exact date of its destruction is unknown. Before the time of 'Pliny a small portion of the town was precipitated into the sea by a landslip. The promontory, rising 650 ft. above the sea, con- f^sists of granite, gneiss and above these a stratum of limestone. The summit is occupied by the church of Santa Maria (Madonna ^Nera). Remains of a theatre and tAvo mosaic pavements have ;been preserved. The internal diameter of the theatre is 201 ft., rorchestra 77 ft.; the cavea is divided into 9 cunei, and contains 27 tiers of seats. Several statues of Roman Avorkmanship found here are now in the museum of Palermo. 262 ^oute 29. MELAZZO. From Pdlermo Beneath the extremity of Capo Tindaro is the Stalactite Grotto of Fata Donnavilla , popularly supposed to be the haunt of a fairy who kidnaps young brides on their wedding-night and who is believed to be identical with the Fata (fairy) Morgana. The curious may reach the entrance of the grotto by being lowered over the cliff with ropes. The ascent of the promontory is amply compensated ' for by the magnificent *view of the sea, Melazzo, the Lipari Islands, the Neptunian Mts., the conical Pizzo di Trip! on which Abacaenum, now Noara, lies, and ^tna. Guide to the ruins necessary; custodian Gaetano Sedotti. Baron Sciacca has recently caused new excavations to be made. The road then descends to the bay of Olivieri., between Tyn- daris and Melazzo. The fertile plain is traversed by a number of torrents which frequently prove very destructive. The largest of these are the Olivieri , Arangia , Crancotta , Salica and deli Aranci ^ on which the sulphur -baths of Termini di Castro are situated. Beyond these the wealthy towns of Barcellona and Pozza di Grotta are reached. Here, on the Longanus, Hiero of Syracuse defeated the Mamertines in 270. Then the Fiumara Cantone, Landro and S. Lucia. The road now divides, to the r. direct to Messina , to the 1. through the vast vineyards of the Neapolitan ex-minister Cassisi (formerly property of the order of St. Johnj to Melazzo. The Emperor Frederick II. once possessed an exten- sive park for game here. According to Homer the herds of Helios were here pastured. i Melazzo (Locanda della Villa Nuova , in the principal street, j pretty good), with 12,000 inhab., the ancient Mylae^ was founded | at a very early period by colonists from Messana-Zancle , who in | 648 quitted the settlement and proceeded to Himera. The terri- | tory remained subject to the Messenians , until Laches in 427 ; made it over to the inhabitants of Rhegium. In 394, however, j the Messenians again possessed themselves of the town and after : it had been destroyed by Agathocles re-erected it. Here in 260 | Duilius gained the first naval victory of the Romans , having by j means of his boarding-bridges converted the naval into a species ' of land-conflict. No ancient remains have been discovered here, t as in the middle ages Melazzo was frequently altered and repeat- edly besieged. The castle in front of which the town is situated was erected by Charles V. , restored in 1643 and resisted the sieges it sustained from the Due de Vivonne in 1675 and during tlie Spanish war of succession. When Garibaldi w'as about to take Messina in i860 he was here obliged to disable the Neapolitan general Bosco who threatened his flank. Marching from Barcellona he attacked Bosco on July 20th and drove him back into the to Messina. RAMETTA. 29. Route. 263 castle, where that general capitulated on condition of an un- molested retreat. The dead, 750 in number, were interred in a large pit on the r. side of the road, immediately before the town is reached. Melazzo possesses a fine harbour. A walk on the ad- mirably-cultivated promontory, whence beautiful glimpses through the foliage of the sea on both sides, glittering far beneath, is strongly recommended. At the extremity stands a lighthouse. Extensive tunny-fisheries. From Melazzo to Messina 20^2 road traverses the plain of the coast to Spadafora. In the bay to the 1. the fleet of Sextus Pompeius was annihilated by Agrippa. On the heights to the r. stands S. Pietro (Sampieri) , Sicil. Monforte , and higher on the mountain , on a summit surrounded by precipitous cliffs, the small town of Rametta, in which the Christians maintained themselves till 965. From Spadafora the road ascends to Divieto, Bavuso (Sicil. Bauso) and Gesso , where the Saracens remained until a late period. The luxuriant fertility of the fields soon di- minishes, and the zone of the heath and grass, with which the precipitous slopes of the Neptunian Mts. are clothed, is reached. The summit, the so-called Telegraph or CoUe di San Rizzo (1502 ft.), commands a view of the strait of Messina; to the 1. the Faro, opposite to it Scilla in Calabria, then on a projecting angle S. Giovanni, numerous villages, and farther to the r. Reg- gio. The forests of the lofty Aspromonte occupy a large portion of the Calabrian peninsula. In front of the spectator extends the sickle (Zancle) of the harbour of Messina ; the road descends to a profound and sinuous ravine , through which the gate of the town is reached in 1 hr. Walkers or riders may descend from the summit by a preci- pitous footpath to the picturesque ruins of the Norman convent of S. Maria della Scala or della Valle, commonly called Ahhadiazza. Portions of the church, e. g. the W. portal, date from the 12th cent. William II. and Constantine endowed the church munificently. When Peter of Arragon with the beautiful Mathilde Alaimo-Scaletta was on his return to Messina , the siege of which had just been raised by Charles of Anjou, the inhabitants and their gallant commandant Alaimo received him here with every demonstration of joy (Oct. 2nd, 1282). After the plague of 1347 the nuns removed to the town, henceforth employing the convent as a farm-building only. This was prohibited by the Council of Trent, in consequence of which the convent fell to decay and is now a complete ruin in a desolate situation, but an object of interest to architects and artists. Messina, see p. 264. From Termini a road traverses the interior of the island to Leonforte.,^ hut is only partially completed. This was the route usually pursued h> the Arabians on their predat(u-y incursions into the interior from Palermo. 264 lloute 30. MESSINA. Hotels. It has also frequently been traversed by the Greeks and Normans and has been the scene of many a san^Miinary encounter. The road ascends by the Flume Torto to Cerda, crosses the mountain and descends to the valley of the Fiume Grande and the small towns of Sclafani (marble sarc(»phagu8 in the church) and Caliavuturo (18 M. from Termini). The latter is of Sara- cenic origin {Kalat-Abi-Thaur) and was taken by Roger I. who granted it to his daughter Mathilde. It now contains 4500 inhab. The road ascends thence to Polizzi, situated on a lofty rock (2620 ft.), a town fortified by Roger I. and of considerable importance in the middle ages. On the moun- tain which is crossed hence to (6 M.) Petralia, rise the llimera Meridionalu iFiume Salso) and the Himera SejHentrionalis {Fiume Grande), which the ancients believed to possess one source in common. Petr alia Sottana and Soprana are two country-towns in a fertile district with imposing moun- tainous environs, occupying the site of the ancient Petreea. To the S., on the mountain-ridge, Buonpietro and Alimena. The latter was conquered by the Saracens in 843 and is probably the ancient llemichara. From Petralia the road traverses a lofty mountain-ridge to (6 31.) Gangi, a town witli 10,535 inhab., the ancient Sikelian Enguium, originally a Cretan, i. e. a Phoenician colony, where in Cicero's time a celebrated temple of Magna Mater (or Aschcra), despoiled by Verres, was situated. One of the best Sicilian painters of the 17th cent., known as Lo Zoppo (the lame), was also surnamed “di Gangi”. The bridle-path leads hence through a fertile tract to (9 31.) Spe7dinga, which alone in 1282 showed partiality to the French, whence the saying “Quod Siculis placuit sola Sperlinga negavit”^ thence to (3 31.) Nicosia, with a population of 14,251 who still employ the Lombard dialect, a town of an entirely mediaeval aspect, regarded as more behind the age than any other in Sicily. The road then passes in the vicinity of Rocca di Sarno , where the brave Norman Serlo perished through treachery and leads to Leonforte (p. 252). 30. Messina. Arrival. The vessels anchor in the harbour off Fort S. Salvadore. To the E. are situated the extensive Lazzaretto, where quarantine is performed, and the citadel, between which the Protestant cemetery lies. To the W. stretches the city itself. Near the centre of the latter stands the Sanitd (PI. 11), a small building on the water’s edge to which the passenger is conveyed by small boat (i |2 1. with luggage 1 1.). Here, in accordance with the local regulations the name and nationality of the traveller are enquired, after which the luggage is superficially examined by the civic custom-house official. I Hotels. La Vittoria (PI. a), R. 2ij2 1. and upwards, A. 1, B. li|2, i D. 4, beer 1 1., acqua gelata 15 c. ^ La Trinacria (PI. b), similar prices. Neither of these hotels, which are entered from the Str. Garibaldi, are desirable for a prolonged stay. -Albergo di Venezia, of the second class, wdth trattoria, R. 2, A 1/2 1. ^ Hotel de s Etran gers. The follow- ing case mobligiate may be recommended : Hotel de 1’ Europe, above the office of the 3Iessageries Imperiales (PI. c), much frequented; Hotel di Lon dr a, nearly opposite the theatre, in the Str. Garibaldi. Adjacent to the latter a good trattoria, the so-called Veneziano. Best ices in the Cafe Pel or o in the Corso, Piazza Annunziata, and Cafe of the Teatro Vittorio Emanuele, Str. Garibaldi. In the Flora or V i 1 1 a (PI. 2), a public garden adjoining the church of S. Giovanni and the Palazzo Reale, entered from the Str. Garibaldi, a band plays 4 times a week in the evening during the summer, in winter on Sunday afternoons only. Fiacres 1 / 21 . per drive. ' - :' • ' '■■■ 7 '' ' *v7’'!7;fr Ll^ ■ ' . ■ ■ '•' 7^'' ‘ : ' ■ ^"1 j \ J I, I I f i i j (i i c »: £ |. - li" !|-., \l ■ MESSINA I . Dojomo - Z.Tloira 3 . S.Iremcesco d'Assisi_^ 4 . hladdalena , la 5 . SMaria de Caicdojii 6 . Ospedfvk,cvrico 5 7 . TaJfmzoBrnnaccud 8 . di CUtd _ . _ 9. Jle of the sea and the opposite coast of Calabria. Messina lias experienced numerous vicissitudes. It was founded by Cumsean pirates and Chalcidians under Pereieres and Crata*mene8 in 732 (•n the site of a Sikelian tovrn, which the inhabitants named Zancle (i. e. sickle) from the peculiar form of the harbour, and was governed by the laws of Charondas. Here, too, the conflicts of the people with the rulin;: powers finally resulted in the establishment of a tyranny. About 493, fugi tives from Samos and Miletus, by the advice of Anaxilas of Rhegium, took possession of the defenceless city. Shortly afterwards he established him self there and emigrants from all quarters, especially Messenians from th* Peloponnesus, settled in the city and gave it the name of Messana. Anaxilas maintained his supremacy throughout all the vicissitudes of the town until | his death in 477. His sons, however, retained possession of the supreme power till 461 only, when the original constitution of the town was revived. Messana participated in the wars against Ducetius and subsequently took the part of the Acragantines against Syracuse, with which it afterwards united against Leontinoi and the Athenians. To the latter, however, it was| compelled to surrender in 427. In the great Athenian and Syracusan warl Messana remained neutral. It then engaged in a conflict with Dionysius, but without decisive result owing to the disunion occasioned by party-spint. In 396 the town was taken and entirely destroyed by the Carthaginian | Himilco; a few onlv of the inhabitants effected their escape to the moun^ tains. Dionysius speedily rebuilt the town, whence he proceeded to conquerj the not far distant Rhegium. After a variety of changes the Carthaginian' gained possession of the j)lace, but were expelled by Timoleon. In thej contests with Agathocles it again took the side of the Carthaginians, who?, mercenaries , the Mamertines (i. e. sons of Mars) , treacherously possesse its new masters and even by Verres. In the war between Octavian anc Sextus Pompeius it was taken and plundered by the soldiers of the former Augustus then established a colony there and Messina continued to be i place of great importance, although not exercising so decisive an influenc< on the fates of Sicily as Syracuse and Lilybseum. The Saracens conquerec the town in 842, and it subsequently became the first l^orman conquest The crusades, which did not leave Sicily unaffected, contributed to tht rapid increase of the prosperity of the town. In 1189, indeed, it sufleret from an attack of Richard Coeur de Lion who with Philip Augustus wmterec there, but from that period also the great privileges date, which down t< 1678 rendered it a species of free-town and head-quarters of the nationa antagonism to foreign rule. In 1282 it was in vain besieged by Charl^ 0 | Anjou. The bravery of its commandant Alaimo and the courage of and Chiarenza at a critical moment saved the town and the island. Th* citizens of Messina have repeatedly manifested a character of heroic con stancy. Towards the close of the 15th cent, the town enjoyed the utmos prosperity, but its jealousy of Palermo eventually paved the way for it downfall. In the 16th cent, the Emp. Charles V. showed great favour t Mrssina and presented it with gifts such as fell to the lot of few othe towns, in recognition of which a street was named and a statue erecte (Piazza Annunziata in the Corso) in honour of his son Don Juan of Austri (.11 his return hither as a victor from Lepanto (1571). But a quarrel letweei Cathedral. MESSINA. 30. Route. 267 the aristocratic families (Merli) and the democratic party (Malvizzi), stimulated by the government which had long been jealous of the privileges of the town, proved its ruin (1672—78). The Merli, at first victorious, expelled the Spanish garrison, and defended themselves heroically against an overwhel- ming force. In order to avoid conquest the senate sued for the aid of Louis XIV., who sent an army and fleet to conquer the island, In this, however, he was unsuccessful, notwithstanding the victory gained by Du- quesne over the united Spanish and Dutch fleets under De Ruyter. In 1678 the French abandoned the town in an almost surreptitious manner, and the population was now reduced from 120,000 to a tenth of that number. The town never recovered from these disasters and was subsequently kept in check by the citadel constructed at that period. During the 18th cent, a fearful plague (1740), of which 40,000 persons died, and an earthquake (1783) which overthrew almost the entire town, rendered its rise impos- sible. (Messina lies on the line of contact of the primary and secondary formations, on which boundary earthquakes between ^tna and Vesuvius are always most violent.) The severe bombardment of Sept. 3rd — 7th, 1848, also caused great damage, and in 1854, the cholera carried off not fewer than 16,000 victims. Xow, however, the town is in a flourishing condition. The original town lay between the torrents of Portalegni and Boccetta, but was extended under Charles V. towards the X. and S. The suburbs of S. Leo on the X. and Zanera on the S. are now completely united with the town. The best survey of the town, overlooking the Carceri, may be made from the garden of the advocate M. Santo de Cola , where the Mamertine castle is said once to have stood and the remains of the Norman castle of Matagrifone or Rocca Guelfonia are still seen. The mountain of the Capuchins, N. of the town, and the Piazza [of S. Gregorio, as well as, many of the higher points in the town, also command fine views. The aspect of the town from the harbour in the morning is strikingly beautiful. In consequence of the numerous calamities Avhich Messina has sustained at the hand of man and from natural phenomena, it contains fewer relics of antiquity than any other town in Sicily. The university-museum contains the fragments of a few inscriptions. The * Cathedral or Matrice (PI. 1) is of Norman origin, com- menced in 1098, and completed under Roger II. In 1254 it was damaged by a conflagration, having taken fire during the celebra- tion of the obsequies of Conrad IV. In 1559 the summit of the campanile was destroyed by fire and in 1783 almost the entire edifice was overthrown by the earthquake, so that but little of the original church remains. Its form is that of a Latin cross, 288 ft. in length, and across the transepts 138 ft. in width. The old campanile , which is said to have resembled that of St. Mark at Venice, w’as totally destroyed by the earthquake of 1783; a second, by which it was replaced, was removed in 1865, and two new^ towers have in its stead been erected over the apses. The tasteful entrance-facade dates from the 14th cent. The 26 columns of granite are said to have once belonged to the temple of Neptune on the Faro. 268 I^oute 30. MESSINA. University. The high-altar is sumptuous but devoid of taste^ 3,825,000 lire are said to have been expended on it in 1628. The receptacle in the interior is supposed to contain the celebrated epistle of the Madonna della Lettera, which in the year 42 the Virgin Mary is alleged to have sent to the citizens by St. Paul, and in honour of which great festivals are still celebrated (June 3rd). This, like several other documents, has been proved to be a forgery of the well known Constantine Lascaris (d. 1501). The sarcophagus by the wall of the choir, to the r. near the high-altar, commemorates the Emperor Conrad IV. whose remains were burned. The sarcophagus on the opposite side, to the 1., contains the remains of Alphonso the Generous (d. 1458), and another those of (^ueen Antonia, widow of Frederick III. of Arragon. The mosaics in the apse, of Christ with the Virgin, St. John and the archangels Gabriel and Michael, also a Madonna in trono on the 1. and St. John on the r., were executed during the reign of Frederick II. and the archbishopric of Guidotto (d. 1333). The most interesting monument which the church contains is that of the archbishop Guidobaldo by Gregorio da Siena., in the transept to the r. Two marble slabs in the nave, to the 1. by the organ, enumerate the privileges granted to the city by Hen rj-^ VI. Above them was formerly a painting representing Henry VI., Constance and their son Frederick II. The pedestal of the vessel for holy water, by the side- entrance to the 1., bears a Greek inscription, according to which it once supported a votive otl’ering to .^Esculapius and Hygeia, the guardian deities of the town. , Adjacent to the church stands the superb Fountain of Mon- torsoli , adorned with statues of the Nile , Ebro , Tiber and the brook Camaro near Messina, with a number of basreliefs. S. Maria dei Catalani (PI. 5), at the S. extremity of the Str. Garibaldi, is another interesting church, the oldest in Messina of the Norman period. A temple of Neptune and subsequently a mosque are said once to have occupied the same site. Over the door a Saracenic inscription. The columns are antique. The church of S. Francesco d" Assisi (PI. 3) in the Boccetta, erected in the 13th cent. , contains an ancient sarcophagus with the Rape of Proserpine. In order to exhibit it, the sacristan re- moves the wooden partition behind the high -altar. — In the audience-chamber of the monastery of S. Gregorio , to the r. of the church-door, are preserved 5 pictures by Antonello da Messina. The University (PI. 13) contains a library with several valu- able MSS. (on the 1st floor) and other collections, accessible daily 91 / 2 — ^ o’clock. The picture-gallery., with two works attributed to Ant. da Messina, is insignifleant. In the Museum (1. on the ground- floor) are several Greek inscriptions from Taormina, a colossal statue in bronze of Ferdinand II. by Tenerani (placed here after the expulsion of the Bourbons) , and sarcophagi (custodian to be found at the library, fee ^ 2 — ^ Palazzo di Citth or town-hall, was erected in 1806 — 29 by the architect Giacomo Minutoli. — The Teatro Vittorio Emanuele (PI. 12), with marble sculptures by Rosario Zagari, the handsomest in Sicily, was opened in 1852. — The Dogana stands on the site of the former palace, in whicli Emp. Frederick II. and other monarchs once resided. Faro. MESSINA. 30. Route. 269 In the Benedictine church of S. Maddalena (PI. 4) a fearful struggle took place in Sept., 1848, between Messinians and the .invading Swiss troops. The ruins on the road to Contessa date from the same period. On the heights above the town rise the two forts of Gonzaga ;to the S. and Castellaccio to the N. They were erected in 1540, but Castellaccio had in ancient times already been the site of a fortress. The ridge in front of Gonzaga, towards the town, is the ^Mons Chalcidicus ^ on which Hiero II. pitched his camp in 261 I'and Charles of Anjou established his head-quarters in 1282. The . Torre delle Vittorie opposite was on that occasion the point against which the attacks were concentrated. In 1861 Cialdini bombarded the citadel from this point. From the peninsula, beyond the citadel (by boat from the Lazzaretto , 50 c.) a line view is obtained of ; Calabria and of the city with the mountains in the background. The highest peak to the 1. of Messina is the Dinnamari (2915 ft.); somewhat to the r. of the town rises Monte Ciccio. At the base of the hills which rise abruptly from the sea a road leads to the Faro, the most northern promontory of Sicily ( 71/2 M. from Messina, a drive of II /4 hrs. ; fare for the excursion 5 1. 95 c. , toll 50 c. ; agreement as to duration of stay advisable). Messina is quitted by the N. extremity of the Marina, the villas of At Bingo are passed , and the Bhsilian monastery of Salvatore dei Greet reached. It was founded by Roger I. and erected on the extremity of the peninsula of the harbour, but transferred to its present site in 1540; it is now dissolved, and its library closed. The view of Calabria becomes more striking as the strait con- tracts. The traveller then passes under the colonnade of the church of La Grotta , said to stand on the site of a temple of Diana, arrives at the fishing-village of Pace and then at the two salt- water lakes Pantani, connected with the sea by canals , in which a celebrated temple of Neptune once stood. The fishing village of Faro (Trattoria Peloro) sprang up at the beginning of the present century, when the English constructed entrenchments here and on the heights in order to prevent the French under Murat, who were posted on the opposite coast, from landing in Sicily. The strait, at the narrowest part, is 3400 yds. in width. The formerly garrisoned lighthouse should be ascended for the sake of the *view ; ’the custodian, however, is rarely to be met with during the day, in which case the substructure, also commanding a fine prospect, may be ascended. To the E.N.E. the precipitous rocks of Scilla, to the 1. Bagnara, then Monte S. Elia, a lofty mountain-ridge surmounted by a small chapel. To the 1. below the promontory glit- ters Palmi, beyond which is the bay of Gioja and the Capo Yati- cano stretching far out to the W. Farther N. and N.W. the Lipari 270 liAGNARA. Islands and the open sea. According to the legend of the Greek i mariners Scylla lay opposite to Charybdis, 'whence the proverb: ^Incidis in Scyllam ciipiens vitare Charybdin.” Charybdis is now believed to have been the term applied to the strong currents (rema, (jev/Lia) 'which sweep round this coast on a change of tide. The principal of these are off the village of Faro and near the small lighthouse at the extremity of the ^‘sickle” of Messina. The latter is termed the Garofalo (carnation) on account of its circular form. Into this species of whirlpool the diver Cola Pesce of Catania precipitated himself during the reign of Frederick II. , an incident on which Schiller based one of his ballads. Besides the visit to Faro and the Telegraph (p. 263), the traveller may make an interesting excursion to Reggio in Calabria (p. 188), to which a steamer crosses twice daily. If the wind be favourable , Villa S. Giovanni may also be reached by small boat in 1 hr. A beautiful excursion of 11/2 undertaken to Scilld, Bdgnara^ Palmi and Monte S. Elia, which appears to form the termination of the strait towards the N. A carr. (about 15 1.) should be taken from Reggio to Bagnara (Locanda della Stella), where the night may be spent. The traveller should then start before sunrise by boat for Palmi and ascend the Monte S. Elia, the *view from which rivals the celebrated prospect from Camaldoli. Thence by the carriage-road (the short-cuts, which are apt to mislead, had better be avoided) on foot in about 3 hrs., through plantations of beautiful chestnuts, back to Bagnara, whence the traveller may return by his own carriage or other conveyance ; to Reggio, or in favourable weather proceed to Messina by boat. I The summit of Aspromonte may best be attained from Scilla, a | beautiful walk through the forest, but more fatiguing than the ascent of ^Etna. The district has always been regarded as safe. 31. From Messina to Catania. a. Rail'way vi^ Taormina, Giarre and Aci-Reale. 60 M. From Messina to Catania (and thence to Lentini and Syracuse) the high road is one of the best in Sicily, but has been deprived of Us importance since the opening of the railway in 1867. Two direct trains daily (a third runs to Giardini only) in 3i|2 hrs., fares 10 1. 50, 7 1. 40, 5 1. 30 c.-, to Giardini (Taormina) in 13|4 hr., fares 5 1. 35, 31. 75, 2 1. 70 c. — A periodica, however, still runs between Aci Reale and Catania, see p. 275. A steamboat also plies 3 times weekly between Messina and Catania, see p. 265. The railway, with numerous tunnels and bridges, skirts the coast and commands beautiful glimpses of the charming district. Half-a-day suffices for a visit to Taormina. The traveller is recommended to start from Mes- sina by the afternoon-train, to alight at Giardini, and to ascend at once to 'I'aonn’ina in order tlience to witness the sunset, and on the following GIARDINL 31. Route. 271 morning the sunrise, Tlien by the early train to Catania. Those who intend returning to Messina should select the interesting route by Letojanni. On quitting the stat. at Messina travellers are subjected to the lenient formali- ties of the custom-house. The railway from Messina to Catania passes through a long succession of villages which have sprung up in the course of the present century, running near and frequently intersecting the high road. Stat. Tremestieri^ then S. Stefano. On an abrupt eminence, it some distance inland , is situated the extensive monastery of '8. Placido , to which a pleasant excursion may be made. Stat. Scaletta , the residence of the Ruifo family , princes Df Scaletta. The picturesque castle rises on the r. near the sta- tion. Beyond stat. AVi ^ which possesses sulphur - baths , Rocca- lumera is seen to the r. on the mountain. The train crosses several broad humare, and reaches stat. S. Ferdinando (Nizza di Sicilia), with a ruined castle of Prince Alcontres. The neighbouring Valley of the Fiume di Nisi contains mines of copper and silver, now abandoned , but which it is intended again to work. In the woods here Henry VI. met with his death. Stat. S. Teresa (Rail. Restaurant, halt of 5 min.). Several more broad torrents are ^crossed. Farther on, to the 1., is the beautiful Capo S. Alessio, with deserted fort. On the height to the r. the town of Forza. Beyond the tunnel (Traforo di S. Alessio) which penetrates the oape, a view is obtained of the promontory of Taormina with the ruins of the theatre. Here are the Tauromenitanian passes of the ancients and the frontier between the territories of Messana and Naxos. Next stat. Letojanni. Beautiful route hence to (S^jo M.) Taormina (donkey 1 — 2 1.). The high ji'oad is at first followed. After M. a footpath to the r., leading to the marble-quarries, is taken, A boy may be taken as a guide , although not ibsolutely necessary. The walk is still pleasanter in the reverse direction. Stat. Giardini (stat. for Taormina), an insignificant place 'Locanda Vittoria) , where fever often prevails, and not recom- mended as quarters for the night. From the bay here Garibaldi crossed to Calabria in the autumn of 1860. From Giardini to Taor- mina by the carriage-road 21/2 M. The precipitous old bridle-path Ascends immediately from the station in Y 2 (donkey 11.; boy io carry small articles of luggage 6 — 7 soldi ; carr. also to be had). : Taormina, the ancient Tauromenium, a town with 5000 inhab., Consists of a long street from which several lanes diverge. The utuation is strikingly beautiful, and the ** view from the theatre )ne of the most charming in Italy. The Locanda Timeo affords good accommodation (prices according 0 arrangement; rooms to the E., with a view towards the garden, should f possible be secured). Should this inn be full, the adjacent Locanda .iumboldt of Giuseppe Sgroi may be tried. 272 J^oute 31. TAOKMINA. From Mesninn The traveller ^vho arrives here before sunset should proreed to the theatre and place himself on the steps in front of the custodians house. To the r. , immediately at his feet, lies the well-preserved theatre, to the 1. rises the majestic pyramid of ^tna. In the foreground to the 1., in the valley of the Cantara. the mountains of Gastiglione, then the mountain-peaks and rock\ summits in the rear of the theatre from 1. to r., first La Maestra, S. Maria della Rocca (hermitage), the fort of Taormina, beyond it the precipitous mountain of Mola and the still higher , Monte Venere or Venerella (2737 ft.); where the latter descends to the N. is the rocky peak of Lapa, and then to the 1. the not far distant and abrupt M. Zirreto with its marble quarries beyond the Fiumara. The view, however, is finer in the morning, when the sun rises over Calabria (in winter from the sea), tinges the snowy summit of JEtna, and then imparts a golden hue to the rocky peaks above the theatre. During a prolonged stay the tra- veller will enjoy an opportunity of observing a variety of the most beautiful effects of light and shade. The mountain-chain bounding the ^tna-group on the N., and forming nearly a right angle with the Montes Neptunii which skirt the E. coast , culminates in 4 summits towards the sea. The highest of these is the Monte Venere (see above), then Mola (1477 ft.), the castle of Taormina and the buttress on which thel theatre stands. The castle was formerly the Acropolis of Tauromenium, which wasj founded by the Siculi after the destruction of Kaxos in 403 under Dionysius, who granted them the necessary land. They, however, soon renounced their allegiance to him and joined the Carthaginians, and Dionysius besieged their town in vain. On the restoration of peace he accordingly established a new colony in the town, and in 358 Andromachus, father of the liistorian Timseus who w^as born here, transferred the remainder of the population of Naxos to Tauromenium. Timoleon, who landed on the rocks below the town, was w^armly supported by the inhabitants, but after his death dis- cussions arose. They united with the Carthaginians against Agathocles, for v/hich that tyrant afterwards chastised them. After his death the town kame into the power of Tyndarion, who invited Pyrrhus to Sicily and caused him to land near Tauromenium (278). When the Romans concluded a peace with Hiero II. of Syracuse the town came into their possession and enjoyed a long period of tranquillity. A number of the slaves established themselves here during the first Servile war and offered a long and obstinate resistance. As the town, being an ally of Rome, had declared in favour of Sextus Pompeius and thus occasioned great embarrassment to Octavian, it afterwards experienced the effects of his wrath, and w^as peopled by a new colony. In the time of Strabo it was a place of considerable importance. Its strong position long enabled the inhabitants to ward off the attacks of the Saracens, who in 869 besieged it unsuccessfully. But on Aug. 1st, 902, it was taken by the blood-thirsty Ibrahim-ibn-Ahmed, after the garrison had sallied forth and been conquered on the coast. Mola, too, w^as cap- tured by the Moors, the entire population massacred and the towm burned.! The adherents of the bishop Procopius, whose heart the savage Ibrahimi was on the point of devouring, were strangled and burned on his corpse. The town, however, recovered from this cruel blow' and Hassan, the first to Catania. TAOKMINA. 31. Route. 273 Emir, was in 962 obliged to besiege and capture it anew. He then intro- duced a colony of Musselmen and named the town Moezzia. In 1078 it was taken by the Normans, under whose supremacy it again prospered. Here in 1410 the parliament was held which in vain endeavoured to find a na- liional sovereign to rule over Sicily. Battles were subsequently fought here on two different occasions. In 1676 the French took possession of Taor- 'Imina and Mola, but on Dec. 17th, 1677, a party of 40 brave soldiers caused hemselves to be hoisted to the summit of the rocks of Mola by means of i'opes (at the point where the path from Taormina skirts the base of the pliff) and succeeded in surprising and overpowering the garrison. Again, |A.pril 2nd, 1849, the Neapolitans under Filangieri, “Duke of Taormina”, pained possession of the town, which was defended for a few days only by ji small body of troops under Santa Rosalia. The town contains architectural monuments of all ages. The hnest of these is the * Theatre on the S. side of the mountain .above the town. The custodian, Francesco Strazzeri (1 1.), generally to be found in his hut at the entrance, is a well-informed man. The traveller who contemplates a visit to the theatre in the morning in order to see the sunrise should not omit to procure ifche key on the previous evening). The theatre, of Greek origin, was remodelled during the Roman period. According to an in- scription on the road-side , it was destroyed by the Saracens, whilst in reality it owes its ruin to the Duca di S. Stefano, who employed its marble ornaments in decorating his palace. In 1748 t was partially restored. It is hewn in the rock in a semi-circular brm, and bounded on two sides only by Roman masonry. The greatest diameter is 338 ft. , that Of the orchestra 122 ft. The stage, after that of Aspendos in Pamphylia, is one of the best- preserved in existence. In the posterior wall are observed the three doors of the stage , in each space between which are three iiches, and on each side a niche for a statue. The stage itself s narrow, as in Greek theatres where the orchestra occupied the greater space. The exact position of the thymela (or raised plat- form for the choir) cannot now be determined. Beneath the stage s situated a vaulted canal for water. The precise object of the ipertures in the proscenium is unknown, probably connected with :he machinery of the theatre. Festal processions advanced to the jtage from the vaulted halls on each side. The adjoining smaller 'tpartments probably served as dressing-rooms. The seats for the .spectators were divided into 9 cunei. The 34 niches on the upper )raecinctiones were probably occupied by sounding boards. Corre- iponding with the remains of the 34 columns are 4o pilastres dong the central wall. Above these arches the women are be- ieved to have sat, after the separation of the spectators according [ o sex introduced by Caisar. The building has been constructed with such acoustic success , that every word spoken on the stage s distinctly audible at the farther extremity. — Adjoining the I )iazza by the entrance to the town from the N. a so-called I SAumachia of the Roman period is preserved , supposed to have I Baedeker. Italy HI. 2(1. Edition. 18 274 TAORMINA. From Messina been an establishment for baths. The fragments are seen in the Giardino del Capitolo. Of five Roman reservoirs one only (Lo Stagnone), beneath the castle-hill, is in a good state of preser- vation. Beyond the N. town-gate is situated the church of St. Panrras, obviously the cella of a Greek temple (prostylos). Mediaeval structures which merit examination are the Casa Corvaja , at the N. entrance to the town ; the Palazzo of the Duca di S. Stefano with vaults for baths, at the Porta Catania; above all the Badia Vecchia on the S.E. slope of the castle-hill. To Mola a beautiful walk of 3)^ hr. The town is quitted by the N. gate and the water-conduit followed until the ascent com- mences. The view of the mountains, the sea and the ravines is strikingly beautiful. Guide unnecessary. (Trattoria of Giuseppe Gulotti^ by the Matrichiesa.) The view from the ruins of the fort (key obtained for a trifling gratuity) is imposing. In return- ing the traveller should follow the ridge , which to the r. des- cends to the Fiumarn della Decima and to the 1. to the Tor- rente di Fontana Vecchia^ ascending in the direction of the castle of Taormina. Beneath the almond-trees is the entrance to the castle , whence the view is not inferior. The traveller may then descend to the S.E. between the mountain and the hermitage (Madonna della Rocca) by a winding path which terminates near the inn. A view is also obtained from the castle of the site of| Naxos , the earliest Greek colony in Sicily , founded by Theoclesj in 735. It is now occupied by a lemon -plantation , situated be- tween the influx of the Cantara and the bay on which Giardinij lies. The altar of Apollo Archagetes, on which the Greeks were' wont to offer sacrifices when about to consult the oracle of Delphi, stood between the river and Taormina. Naxos was subjugated byj Hiero I. of Syracuse in 476 but soon regained its liberty and| espoused the cause of Athens , whose general Nicias wintered infl the town in 415 — 14. It was destroyed by Dionysius in 403. Beyond Giardini the railway traverses the lava-streams of ^Etna. On the most northern of these stands the so-called Gastello dii Schiso^ on the site of the ancient Naxos. The Cantara, the ancient! Acesines or Onobalas , is crossed. Ccentara is an Arabic word! signifying a bridge. The Sicilians call the river and the bridge by which the high road crosses it Calatapiano, after the town of that name situated to the r. This district is rendered unhealthy by malaria. The lava-stream which descended by the Fiume Freddo^ between this point and the Ponte della Disgrazia, prevented B. C. 396 the Carthaginian general Himilco after the destruction of Mesi Sana from proceeding direct to Syracuse , and compelled him tcj march round the mountain to the N. Here, too, the road now diverges which leads to Catania by Randazzo and Adernb (seei to Catania. GIARRE. 31. Route. 275 D. 276). Stat. Piedimonte; the town itself is 3 M. distant. The ine next traverses the fertile district of Mascali and Giarre^ and •eaches stat. Giarre-Riposto. Giarre (Locanda della Pace., tolerable), 3/4 M. from the sta- ;ion , is a large country-town with 19,000 inhab. (The inn of ^crofina at Riposto also affords tolerable accommodation). Several Iteamboats of the Florio Co. touch here. Above the village of S. ^Alfio, 5 M. above Giarre on the slopes of JEtna, are the remains lif the gigantic chestnut-tree di Cento Cavalli^ near which several bther remarkable trees of great age are still flourishing. The cra- ters which were in activity in 1865 may be reached from Giarre in 5 hrs. , unless the traveller prefer the easier ascent from Linguaglossa (p. 276). From the sea the summits of the craters nay be distinguished, rising from the long ridge which extends Tom the base of the principal crater in a N.N.E. direction. From Giarre, or still better from the sea, a survey is obtained of the •avine of the Val di Bove (p. 287), Avhich is bounded on the W. 3y the principal crater , on the S. by the Serra del Solfizio and )n the N. by the Serra delle Concazze. Beyond stat. Mdgano :he railway intersects lava-fields still partially uncultivated. Fine view of GEtna and the sea. Stat. Aci-Reale (Sicil. Jaci) (Alhergo Trinacria^ by the cathe- dral; Trattoria of Ambrogio Forti ^ .Via Pinnisi. — Fiacre from :he stat. to the town 60 c.), a wealthy country-town with 24,151 with the surrounding villages 35,447) inhab., has been almost ,mtirely re-erected since the earthquake of 1693 and stands on different lava-streams about 650 ft. in thickness. Baron Pasquale Pinnisi possesses an admirable collection of Sicilian coins , which dowever is not accessible without a special introduction. The environs are replete with geological interest. The myths of Acis, Galatea and the giant Polyphemus (Ov. Metamorph. XIII.) are issociated with this locality. The Acis, mentioned by Theocritus md Ovid, here empties itself into the sea, to which a precipitous Dath (la Scalazza) descends. A periodica runs hence every morning (i;o Catania, fare 21/2 t^ri (1 1. 5 c.). I The railway now approaches the sea; near Stat. Aci Gastello, ?;he traveller perceives to the 1. the seven Scogli de^ Ciclopi or Faraglioni, the rocks which the blinded Polyphemus hurled after :he patient Ulysses. To the S. of the Isola d" Aci, the largest •)f the islands , rises the most picturesque rock , about 200 ft. in leight and 2000 ft. in circumference. It consists of columnar I )asalt , in which beautiful crystals are found , and is covered with I hard stratum of limestone containing numerous fossil shells. I The coast is here lofty and has risen 40 ft. within the last few * lenturies. Near these cliffs Mago, although cut off from the land- ! 18 * 276 KANDAZZO. From Messina army under Himilco, defeated the Syracusan fleet under Leptine-j in 396. Stat. Aci Castello with a picturesque ruined castle, iii| which in 1297 the adherents of Roger Loria defended themselve^j against Frederick II. and Artale Aragona. Catania is at lengthj seen on the r. , and the train stops at the station on the N.E side of the town. The line then skirts the bay of L’Onynina. in which the Fortus L’lyssis ^ described by Virgil (iEn. III. 570). and filled by a lava-stream in the 15th cent., is recognized. Catania (p. 278). b. By Taormina, Piedimonte and Aderno. This route is one of tlje most beautiful in Sicily and is especially re- commended to those who have received their first impression of Mtna, from' the E, Distance 63 M., i. e. from the Bivio Minissale where the main road is quitted. From Taormina to Giardini 2 M., to Minissale (Ponte della] Disgrazia) Sij-i, to Piedimonte 3, to Linguaglossa 4, to Randazzo 10ij4 M.. where the nigiit is passed. Thence to Bronte 10, to Aderno 1D|4 M. It is.' however, preferable to proceed to Piedimonte by railway. Or the valley oi| the Cantara may be ascended on horseback, by a road not yet practicabh, for carriages, as far as Francavilla, whence Randazzo is reached via Mojo.j Distance also 24* I 2 M. The road from Giardini (p. 271) to Aderno (p. 253) is thd old military route from Palermo and the interior to Messina. Il^ was traversed by Himilco in 396, by Timoleon in 344, by Charles Y. in 1534 etc. Piedimonte is a thriving town, but possesses ncj tolerable inn (Cafe F Italia and the adjacent Casino dei Nobili afford refreshments). From Linguaglossa (*L’Etna) the travellei( may ride in 3^/2 hrs. across fields and through pine-forest to th6| craters of the eruption of 1865. Mule 71 / 2 — 8 1., guide gratuity. Castiglione, to the r. of Linguaglossa, produces the bes^ Sicilian hazel-nuts. The road to Randazzo intersects extensivd nut-plantations. A short distance beyond Linguaglossa a more uninterrupted view is obtained of the valley of the Cantara anr the chain of the lofty Nebrodi, at the point where the mountain.- of Castiglione are quitted. To the r. of the 181st milestone tha lava-stream of 1809 is observed. Near the hamlet of Malvagnal on the 1. bank of the Cantara, stands a small Byzantine chapel] the only one in Sicily which has survived the Saracenic period an interesting object to architects. In this vicinity probably la: the town of Tissa mentioned by Cicero. The village of MojOj no] far off, stands near the most N. crater of the ^tna region. Randazzo (Locanda di San Martino; Locanda Nuova), a towt of completely mediaeval aspect (population 8000) , founded by . Lombard colony, was surnamed Etnea by Frederick II., being th# nearest town to the crater of the volcano (12 M.) and yet nevei destroyed by an eruption. Frederick conferred the title of Duk« of Randazzo on one of his sons , which contributed to the pros to Catania. BRONTE. 31. Route. 277 terity of the town , so much so that in the middle ages it was ermed ^The populous”. The church of S. Maria., on the r. side of the street, dates 'rom the 13th cent, (choir), the lateral walls from the 14th; the ampanile has been added to the original tower during the present entury. An inscription mentions Petrus Tignoso as the first ar- ihitect. The houses present numerous interesting specimens of uediaeval architecture , such as the Palazzo Finochiaro with an jnscription in barbarous Latin, the mansion of the barone Fesauli, he Town Hall in which Charles V. once spent a night etc. On he former Ducal Palace (now a prison) the spikes on which the iieads of criminals were exposed still protrude. A handsome nediaeval vaulted passage leads from the main street to the church )f S. Niccolo. The buildings are constructed of indestructible lava- „)locks. The alternation of black and white stone in the walls of he church gives it a strange, oriental aspect. Randazzo lies 2537 ft. above the sea-level ; the road to Bronte, lowever, still ascends , at first through a forest of oaks with ivy- dad trunks. Agriculture here assumes a northern aspect. Before he path to the small town of Maletta diverges, the culminating )oint between the Cantara and Simeto is reached (3577 ft.). The f;orrents in spring form the small lake Gurrita in the valley to he r., the exhalations from which in summer poison the atmos- phere with malaria. To the r. in a valley above Maletto lies the brmer Benedictine monastery of Maniacium. Here in the spring J)f 1040 the Greek general Maniaces , aided by Norwegians (com- nanded by Harald Hardradr, afterwards king) and Normans, de- feated a large army of Saracens. Margaret, mother of William 11., bunded the monastery in 1174 and William Blesensis, brother of he celebrated Pierre de Blois, became the first abbot. Ferdinand IV. presented the entire estate to Nelson in 1799, and created him I Duke of Bronte. The steward (M. Thoves , an introduction to whom is desirable) of General Hood, the present proprietor, resi- les at Maniace, where the handsome vaulted gateways are objects M interest. The estates are now valued at 75,000 1. per annum 3000 L. sterl.) The high mountain-ranges to the r., which are jovered with snow in spring, and the far more lofty “Pillar ot Reaven”, “Nourisher of the snow”, as Pindar terms JEtna , to the ., invest the scenery with an almost Alpine character. In 1651 .1 vast lava-stream descended to the valley beneath in the imme- liate vicinity of Bronte. ^ Bronte (Locanda dei Fratelli Cesare; Real Collegio, both tole- *able), erected since the time of Charles V., has a population of 14,000. The road thence to Aderno traverses barren fields of lava, passing the streams of 1843 (2 M.), 1727, 1763, 1603, 1787 278 I^oute 32. CATANIA. and 1610. The craters visible in front are (reckoned from th»^ summit of ^tna downwards towards the W.) the Monti Lepre. Rovolo and Minardo. The communes of Aderno and Bronte her' possess a beautiful forest, the boundary of which is formed b, Monte Minardo. The highest mountain to the r., towards the N.J is Monte Cutth ; the Serra della Spina belongs to the Nelsoiij estate. The Foresta di Traina is also called Monte Cunano. From Aderno to Catania, see p. 253. 32. Catania. Arrival, a. Bp Steamboat: disembarcation 50 c., with luggage 11. foJ each j)ers. The luggage of travellers arriving from the free harbour of Mes] .sina is superficially inspected. — b. Bp Railwap : hotel-omnibuses^ also fiacre.'i (60 c. with luggage, 1 1. 10 c. per hr.). Hotels. Grande Albergo di Catania, near the station, new an' well fitted up, R. from 21., B. D. 4, A. 1, L. 3|4 1. ; Corona d i Fe rro i in the Corso , R. 2^2 — 3, A. 1 1. , no dinner supplied except at the tabhl d’hote (4 i| 2 1.) in .summer. On the opp. side of the street, Orient, of th' second cl.; also Hotel de France. — Furnished Apartments are adverl tised in many streets. — Villa Nuova, to the r. in the passage from tht Piazza del Duomo to the Marina; Nuova Villa di Sicilia, Str. LinJ coin, both tolerable trattorie. — *Cafe di Sicilia, in the Piazza dej Duomo, ices 5 soldi. Guide, Giuseppe Carofratello^ custodian of the antiquities, Str. Filippintj or Salita del Teatro Greco 21 ; 5 1. per diem. Carriages, one-horse 50 c. per drive. Mules may be hired of Pietro Buonacorso^ Str. Agata di Giarre. The durable silk of Catania may be purchased of the Fratelli Fragala Str. Garibaldi. Articles made of the beautiful, but expensive amber {ombray found in the bed of the Simeto, at Scuderi's., Corso 406. Sulphur-crystals minerals from Hitna, copies of vases etc. sold by Andrea Tallica., Str. Gari baldi 49. Catania is even a more suitable residence for invalids than Palermo the average annual temperature being 9® higher. In winter the penetratin;^ N.E. winds prevail for a short period only. Excellent wine, ^especially tlo Benedettino Bianco from the nunnery in the Corso. From Catania to Messina two trains daily, a third to Giardini only, set j). 270. Diligence to Lentini and Spracuse see p. 288. Dilig. twice daily t( Paternb (7 1. 40 c.) and Adernb (2 1.), starting from the “Rilievo”, a side street of the Str. Garibaldi ; also to Caltagirone (p. 255) daily excep Wednesdays. Catania [^Kdravci) is after Palermo the most populous citj in the island of Sicily (64,921 inhab.). It is situated on th« coast and possesses a molo, constructed at a great expense, bu‘ the harbour is so unsafe that even the mail-steamers cannot ente during a violent Sirocco. Tlie visitor will easily become familiar with the topograph;; of Catania (comp. Plan; p. 282). From the Largo della Marina with an avenue and flower-garden, the main street diverges ii CATANIA. 32. Route. 279 the direction of the summit of ^tna. The lower half, as far as the Piazza Stesicorea, is named Strada Steskorea, the upper por- tion Strada Etnea. This street intersects five squares which lie from S. to N. : Piazza del Duomo , deW Universita (degli Studj), Quattro Cantoni , Steskorea , del Borgo. It is crossed almost at right angles by two other important streets : the Cor so , which leads from the Largo della Colonna (railway - station) to the op- posite extremity of the town; and farther N., in the direction of j^Etna, by the Strada de’ Quattro Cantoni. From the S.W. angle of the Piazza del Duomo the Str. Garibaldi diverges, running pa- rallel with the Corso towards the W. , and in which the road from Syracuse and that from the interior of the island terminate. The roof of the Benedictine monastery of S. Nicola affords the best survey of the town , which may also be viewed from the Giarre Biscari on the quay. Catania is now a provincial capital and residence of a bishop, and contains a university (PL 8) of the second class , which, however, possesses a valuable collection of specimens of natural history (Gioeni Cabinet), some interesting antiquities and a con- siderable library. The town carries on an animated trade in the products of this rich district : sulphur, cotton, wine, grain, linseed, almonds etc. During the summer two cargoes of snow from .zEtna, from which a portion of the episcopal revenues are derived, are sent weekly to Malta. The wealth of the town, and especially of the nobility who possess estates in the neighbourhood, is proved by the persevering re-erection , notwithstanding the disasters occasioned by numerous earthquakes, of the spacious palaces (e.g. those of the Principe Biscari on the quay, of the Marchese San Giuliano opposite the university , of the prince Carcaci , baron Bruca-Bruca etc.), the sumptuousness of the equipages on the occasion of public and ecclesiastical festivals and by the entire ’ aspect of the town , which is in many respects the cleanest and most attractive in Sicily. The festivals of Sta. Agata^ the patroness of the city , are celebrated with the utmost pomp on 3rd 5th Feb. and 18th— 21st Aug. The traveller who is at Catania on May 10th should not omit to visit Tre Castagne , the festival of which is attended by almost the entire population of the town and environs. Catana , founded bv Chalcidians under the leadership of the Athenian 31 Theocles in 730, five years after they had founded l^axos, soon rose to pros- perity. Shortly after Zaleucus had promulgated the first Hellenic code oi laws among the Locri Epizephyrii, Charondas framed a code for Catana, which was subsequently recognised as binding by all the Sicilian commu- nities of Ionian and Chalcidian extraction. 7V.s?a.s, surnamed Stesichorus on account of his merits in perfecting the chorus of the Greek drama, born at Himera on the N. coast of the island about the year 630, closed his career ' at Catana at an advanced age. His tomb is said to have been within the precincts of the present Piazza Stesicorea. Catania suffered greatly in the 280 I^oute 32. CATANIA. Theatre. wars of the Doric colonies apainst the Clialcidian. /Hero 1. took tlic town in 476 and transplanted the inhabitants to Syracuse and Leontinoi , ainonj. whom was the ccleltrated Eleatic philosopher re-populating it | with Syracusans and Pel(»ponnesians and changing its name to A^lna. In j 461, however, the new intruders were expelled and in the Athenian and | Syracusan war Catana became the Athenian head-quarters. Dionysiu.% there fore again destroyed the town in 403 and founded a new Altna in the i vicinity, which he peopled with Campanian mercenaries. After the naval victory of the Cyclopian islands in 396 Catana fell into the hands of the Carthaginians, and in 339 was delivered by Tinioleon from the tyrant j Mamercus. It was one of the first Sicilian towns of which the Romans took possession and under their sway became one of the most populous in the island. Marcellm undertook extensive improvements, but great damage was j occasioned during the Servile wars and the civil war between Sextus Pom- peius and Octavian. The latter introduced a new colony into the town. During the early part of the middle ages Catania was a place of subor dinate significance. It was wrested from the Goths by Belisarius, plundered by the Saracens, conquered and strongly fortified by the Normans, but in 1169 almost totally overthrown by an earthquake. Towards the close of' that century it declared in favour of king Tancred and was in consequence i taken by ,the troops of Henry VI. under Henry of Kallenthin and rased to the ground. Again restored and in 1232 provided by Frederick II. with the | fortress of Rocca Orsina (W. of the harbour), it subsequently flourished under the Arragon sovereigns of the 14th cent, who generally resided here, but owing to the feebleness of the government was exposed to numerous j sieges. In 1444 Alphonso here founded the first Sicilian university, and since that date Catania has been regarded as the literary metropolis of the island. Besides the insignificant contests of modern times (April 1849, May 1860), the town has been the scene of the most calamitous natural phenr- mena, which have materially retarded its progress. On March 8th, 1669 a| fearful eruption of Mt. .^Etna took place ; the Monti Rossi were upheaved and an arm of the lava-stream was precipitated in the direction of the] town. The pious inhabitants, however, succeeded in averting its course by extending the veil of St. Agatha towards it, in consequence of which thej stream took a W. direction near the Benedictine monastery and descended] into the sea S.W. of the town , partially filling up the harbour. An earth- quake in 1693, by which the entire island was affected, proved especially; destructive to Catania and the present town has been erected since that date. I Half-a-day suffices for a visit to the principal attractions of j Catania. As the custodian of the Greek theatre is also entrusted j \vith the supervision of the other antiquities of the town . these j points should be visited first (fee about 2 1., for the objects of! interest within the walls). i The fragments of the Greek-Roman * Theatre (Str. Filippina or Salita del Teatro Greco, No. 21, to the 1., PI. b. It is reached by traversing the Corso, ascending the Largo S. Francesco past the church, and following the first transverse street to the 1.); are chiefly beneath the foundations of the ground, and some por- tions of it can only be visited by torchlight. The Roman structure] was erected on the foundations of the Greek; diameter 300 ft., orchestra 90 ft. It contained two praicinctiones and 9 cunei. The pillars of the fa<^*,ade of the cathedral were derived from thei theatre , with the materials of which Rogercaused the church to be erected. Here Alcibiades probably harangued the assembled Catanians in 415. The adjacent Odeum., 121 ft. in diameter, enti- Cathedral. CATANIA. 32. Route. 281 rely of Roman origin , but greatly altered at subsequent periods, ^vas probably employed for the rehearsals of the players and musical performances. Remains of the Roman Amphitheatre (PI. 7) are preserved in the Str. Archebusieri. It occupied the S.W. portion of the Piazza Stesicorea, was restored by the sons of Constantine, ibut demolished under Theodoric in order to furnish material for the construction of the town -walls. The longer diameter is 226, the shorter 167 ft. In the vicinity is the church of S. Carcere jfp. 282). The Eoman Baths beneath the Piazza del Duomo (en- trance to the r. immediately adjoining the portal of the cathedral) are uninteresting; other remains are under the Carmelitechurch alF Indirizzo. Most of the principal constituents of a bath-establishment are here preserved: the undressing-room ( apodytorium) , fire-room (hypocaustum) j warm bath (tepidarium) , vapour-bath (calidarium)., hot-water-bath (balneum). In the vMnity the custodian points out ■an interesting fragment of the ancient townwall, partially covered by a stream of lava. Other baths are near the Benedictine mo- nastery, adjacent to S. Maria della Rotonda. Numerous other Roman relics might be mentioned, all of which are comparatively insigni- ficant, e. g. the Roman Tombs, N.W. of the town, in the direc- tion of the Yilla Carcaci, some of them near S. Maria di Gesu, in the garden of the Minorite monastery. Prince Ignazio Biscari caused most of these antiquities to be excavated in 1719 — 1780, valuable relics from which and from other sources constitute the * Biscari Museum (partially plundered in 1849; admission daily 8 — 1 o’clock, custodian 1 1. — The Str. del Museo diverges from the Piazza di S. Placido, on the S. side of the Corso). The first court contains mediseval sculptures ; in the passage to the se- , cond a statue of the founder Prince Biscari. To the r. of the entrance two "rooms with small bronzes , many of which are modern. 0pp. the entrance a fine Greek tomb-relief. In the corresponding rooms on the 1. collections ,of ancient vases (some of them spurious), terracottas, nat. hist, specimens etc. Of mediteval structures the Cathedral (PI. 1) is the most important. It was commenced by Roger I. in 1091 , but almost 'entirely destroyed by an earthquake in 1169. Portions of the apses and the E. transept are now the sole remnants of the ori- ' ginal edifice. By the high-altar are placed sarcophagi of the Arra- gon sovereigns, r. Frederick II. (d. 1337) and his son John of Randazzo; King Louis (d. 1355); Frederick III. (d. 1377); Queen Maria, wife of Martini, and their youthful son Frederick. On the 1., the monument of Queen Constance, wife of Frederick III, (d. 1363). The chapel of St. Agatha, to the r. in the apse, con- tains the relics of the saint, who in the reign of Decius A. I). 252 was cruelly put to death by the praetor Quintianus, whose dishonourable overtures she had rejected. The crown is said to have been presented by Richard Coeur de Lion. The silver sarco- 282 Route 32. CATANIA. San Nicola. phagus is conveyed through the city during the February festival by men in white robes, accompanied by the senate. The women on these occasions cover their faces so as to leave one eye only visible and amuse themselves by sallies of wit directed against the male population. The Sacristy to the 1. contains a fresco of the eruption of 1669 by Miynemi. — The fountain in front of the cathedral, with an elephant bearing an Egyptian obelisk of granite , probably once served as a meta (or goal) in a circus. Another object of interest is the portal of the church of Santo Carcere (PI. 3), at the N.W. end of the Piazza Stesicorea, of Greek-Norman architecture. The small marble statue in a sitting posture is supposed to be that of the Emp. Frederick II. In the interior is preserved an impress of the foot of St. Agatha in lava. The * Benedictine Monastery of San Nicola is after that of Mafra in Portugal probably the most imposing monastic institution in Europe. The church with the unfinished fa(;ade is the most spacious in Sicily. The organ by Donato del Piano is one of the finest in Europe. The monastery, formerly situated at S. Nicola d’ Arena, near Nicolosi, was transferred to its present site in 1518. In 1669 the lava-stream here turned aside, but in 1693 the mo- nastery was destroyed by the earthquake. The present edifice was j subsequently erected and retenanted in 1735. It possesses two i spacious courts with double corridors in the centre. The ^garden i at the back commands a most superb view. Since the suppression of the monastery the abbot-archbishop and a few monks only now reside here; there were formerly 40 monks ^nd the same number of novices , all members of noble families. Library and museum insignificant. The visitor enters the gateway to the 1. of the church and crosses the court to a staircase leading to the dwelling of the custodian, who shows the monastery, museum and library. The botanical garden of the university in the Strada Stesicorea, laid out and superintended by the Benedictine M. Fornabene, deserves a visit. Another public garden , formerly termed A1 Laberinto, has recently been opened here and will probably be converted into a zoological garden. A visit should also be paid to the Amenanus, which flows beneath the lava of 1669 and empties itself into the harbour, by descending by the Strada delle Botte d’Acqua (Gambazita) to the N.W. of S. Benedetto. 33. Mount iEtna. Tlie ino.st favourable period for the ascent of iEtna is during the sum- mer and autumn months (July — Sept.). In spring the snow is a serious ob- stacle and in winter the guides object to undertake the ascent. A moon- light night is desirable, in spring or autumn indispensable. As the elements are here extremely capricious, the traveller must frequently be satisfied with ,1 I i (i i \ f i; ( t I '/e/v /J?*y -ZJ. ■tfL.- tC3/' %idi ^Ademo Gtisppo Scaniio d/3CakP^, B elpas 8 oM ' • ' - ■ '■ ■’ ;' "■ •' • V 4 , - ' /f 1 ', ^■^«c^iti!^| .Amaloni] ' (asteUuixo ‘aleri Mottu S^iit^sfajtJa^ CdNTORNI deli; ScltUo 1 ; 3 , 000,000 Muj/UoMalirme di passi 2J00. Spie^aziane nomi abbreviati al Ovest ol Sud . del gran Crateret Sc . Scacricosimo Fo.iyfonle Fonitaneddi Cot. M .GspiTdlo F. n Ferraro L. ■. Lordwazio G-. „ GnUobioneo Co Goneiolo T K Te«ta SF; Scrra gU-FoXco T. « YUadtibi, VD . Vallotve Denvone [jCr^Grect'ert ,811. M-S. Nicola . ' PL. Piano del Lago. ^'^Archirafi Jt Jhwrno ■S laRMtomht ddleiJPaZornbi ;i Reale r^Q%at9 duMinMXV & Ac S, Artruju '• Cflcpo MiUini Tczza thraaiuoru/ CasteIJo .TANIA Darmst Adi, Kd. ^av’iiPlr' MOUNT JETNA. 33. Route. 283 a view of the crater only, which, however, alone repays the fatigue. During settled weather, when the smoke ascends calmly and the outline of the , mountain is clear, a fine view may with tolerable certainty be anticipated. : If on the other hand the smoke is driven aside by the wind which fre- : quently prevails on the summit , the prospect is generally partially , if not entirely excluded. Even in hot weather the traveller should on no account omit to be pro- ; vided with an overcoat or plaid , as the wind on the mountain is often bit- I terly cold. In winter or spring, when the snow is still unmelted, a veil or coloured spectacles will be found serviceable. . A moderate supply of provisions for the ascent should also be procured ! at Catania. Those who desire the luxury of a cup of tea or coffee on the mountain may provide themselves with charcoal at Nicolosi. Distances. From Catania to Nicolosi by carriage in 2^(2 hrs. , returning in li {4 hr. (on foot in 2i|2, back in 2 hrs.). Mule from l^icolosi to the Casa Inglese 6—7, on foot (not advisable) 7—8 hrs. From the Casa Inglese to the crater , on foot only , in 1^|2 hr. ^ halt on the summit and descent to the Casa Inglese 2— 2i|2 hrs. Thence to Nicolosi 4 — 5 hrs. The excursion is therefore long and fatiguing, occupying 18—20 hrs. Carriages , guides and mules. The charge for a 2 or 3-horse carriage ' to Nicolosi, which remains there during the night and conveys the traveller back to Catania on the following day, is 20—25 1 ., with an additional gratuity of 3—5 1 . (“tutto compreso” , also toll-dues). One-horse carriage (not easily procured , as the drivers allege that the road is “troppo brutto” , too steep, for a single horse) 15 1 . and 2—3 1 . gratuity. Those who prefer returning from Kicolosi on foot may engage a carriage for the ascent only (10—15 1. and 1—2 1 . fee). Mule to Nicolosi and back tremaining there during the night) 2—3 1 . and 1 1 . fee. (Carriage of course preferable for the return to Catania after a fatiguing ride of 10 — 12 hrs., although the charges are exor- bitant.) — Guide 8 1 . and 1 1 . fee; mule (guide must also be provided with one) 5 1 . Parties usually engage 2 guides and an additional mule to carry the provisions etc. At Nicolosi the traA^eller may avoid discussions with the guides by re- questing the assistance of the Signor Dr. Giussepe Gemellaro , a gentleman whose obliging character is well known. Most trustworthy guides Pasquale Gemellaro., Giuseppe Bonanno., Salvatore and Angelo Carbonaro., Antonio Leo- nardi Antonio Nicolosi etc. Those recommended by Dr. Gemellaro may al- ways be relied upon. Inns at Nicolosi , at the entrance to the village on the r. : Locanda I’E t n a and Locanda di Antonio Mazzaglia; at the former the char- ges are extortionate; the latter is less pretending. Prices should be enquired previously. The excursion may perhaps be most conveniently aiTanged as follows : to Nicolosi in the morning (where a guide should at once be engaged and refreshments for the evening ordered) ; excursion to the Monti Rossi (p. 285) in the afternoon , supper about 6 p. m. , start not later than 7i|4 or P \2 p. m., notwithstanding any representations to the contrary made b}’^ the guides, in order to allow time for repose at the Casa Inglese and ensure reaching the summit before sunrise ; in returning the Casa Inglese is quitted about 6 or 7 a. m. and Nicolosi reached at noon. — Another and less fatiguing ' mode of performing the excursion , especially when ladies are of the party, is this : Catania is quitted early in the morning, Nicolosi left about 9 a. m. and the summit attained in time to witness the sunset; the night is then j spent in the Casa Inglese, the cone again ascended in the morning before i sunrise and Catania regained in the evening. The charges in this case j lor guides and mules are of course higher. The Casa Inglese contains a I table, chairs, straw beds for 6 travellers and a stone on which a fire may i be kindled. Subscriptions for the maintenance of the casa are received by i Dr. Gemellaro. I 284 Oolite 33. MOUNT ^TNA. Veyetdtion. Mount ^tna, Sicilian Mongibelio (from monte and djebel. the Arabic for mountain), commonly termed “II Monie^’^ is the loftiest volcano in Europe, as well as the highest mountain in Italy. Height 10,849 Engl, ft.; principal points: Nicolosi 2270 ft., the Monti Rossi 2721 ft., Casa del Bosco 4216 ft.; snow -houses at the base of the Montagnuolo , the W. extremity of the Serra del Solfizio , 6930 ft. ; Casa Inglese 9662 ft. ; Torre del Filosofo, on the verge of the Val di Bove, 9500 ft. ^tna is usually divided into three zones of vegetation. The first extends as far as Nicolosi, the so-called Piemontese or Coltivata , which yields the usual Si- cilian products. Vines, however, are occasionally seen at a height of 4000 ft. The next zone is the Boscosa or Nemorosa, extending to 7000 ft. and subdivided into two regions. The lower of these (2200 — 3700 ft.) is clothed chiefly with oaks and chestnuts, above which are copper-beeches (fagus sylvatica) and birches (betula alba and betula Etnensis). On the N.E. side Avhere extensive pine- forests are situated, pines (pinus silvestris; Sicil. zappinu) grow to a height of 7200 ft. The highest region, from 7000 ft. to the summit, is almost entirely destitute of vegetation , a circumstance due to the scarcity of water and the frequent changes in the surface of the soil. About 40 species of plants only are here found, among which are the barberry, juniper, viola gracilis, saponaria depressa. Within the last 2000 ft. 5 phanerogamous species only flourish : senecio Etnensis , anthemis Etnensis , Ro- bertsia taraxacoides (these three peculiar to ^tna) , tanacetum vulgare and astragulus Siculus , which last grows in tufts of 3 — 4 ft. in diameter. The senecio Etnensis is found as high as the vicinity of the crater, several hundred feet above the Casa Inglese. Not a trace of animal life can be detected on the higher portion of the mountain. The black silent waste, glittering in the sunshine produces an impression seldom forgotten by those who witness it. On the lower parts of the mountain, wolves, as well as hares, rabbits and a few wild boars, are the usual objects of the chase, ^tna is clothed with 14 different forests, which, how- ! ever, do not present any definite line of demarcation. Ferns (espe- | cially the pteris aquilina) frequently take the place of underwood. The densest forests are the Boschi della Cerrila and di Lingua- glossa on the N.E. side, which however suffered greatly from the eruption of 1865. As late as the 16th cent, impenetrable forests extended from the summit down to the valley of the Cantara, and Cardinal Bembo extols the beauty of the groves of plane-trees. About the beginning of the last century about i/ 3 rd of the entire E. coast of the island was still overgrown with forest. ^]tna has been known as a volcano from the earliest ages. At one time the mountain has been represented as the prison of the giant Flnceladus or Typlioeus , at another as the forge of Eruptions. MOUNT ^TNA. 33. Route. 285 Vulcan. It is, however, remarkable that the Greek mariners’ tra- ditions in Homer do not allude to its volcanic character. Pindar, on the other hand, describes an eruption previous to 476. About .80 eruptions fall within the limits of history. The most violent were those of B. C. 396, 126 and 122, and A. D. 1169, 1329, 1537 and 1669. The latter, one of the most stupendous, has been described by the naturalist Borelli. On that occasion the Monti Rossi were formed, 27,000 persons were deprived of all ; shelter and many lives were lost in the rapidly descending streams 'of lava. In 1693 an eruption was accompanied by a fearful earth- quake , which partially or totally destroyed 40 towns and caused ia loss of 60 — 100,000 lives. An eruption took place in 1755, the year of the earthquake at Lisbon. That of 1792 has been described by Ferrara and others. In 1843 and 1852 lava-streams burst forth near Bronte and in the Val di Bove, and the last : eruption of Feb. 1st, 1865, occurred at the base of the great crater of Monte Frumento , N. W. of the principal crater. An eruption takes place, on an average, once in ten years. Catania is quitted by the long Str. Etnea, and a succession of country-estates are passed. The traveller whose time is not too circumscribed should not omit to visit the park of the Mar- chese S. Giuliano , at Licatia , a short distance to the r. of the road. The ascent becomes more rapid; Gravina is passed, then ' Mascalucia (4000 inhab.) and farther on Torre di Grifo (Torre- lifo). Between this and Nicolosi a barren tract, the lava-stream of 1537, is traversed. The round and tall bushes of broom (genista Etnensis) which flourish here form a peculiar feature of the scene. To the 1. tower the reddish Monti Rossi ^ which may be ascended with tolerable facility (2 hrs. there and back). They command a fine view, especially towards the S. The soil contains a number of crystals of pyroxene. The mules, provisions etc. being prepared, the traveller starts from Nicolosi and proceeds for nearly another hour in a N. di- . rection (a portion of the route which will be found especially hot and fatiguing after the descent from the cooler mountain air). The ascent of the forest - region now begins, at first somewhat precipitous ; the path winds and in many places traverses small ravines. After another hour the Casa del Bosco Rinazzi (good drinking-water) is reached, near which several other houses stand, among which one appertaining to Duke Alba in a chestnut-planta- tion. The mules are sometimes here fed. The path ascends first in one direction, then in another, in a hollow between smaller extinct volcanoes, until, about 6800 ft. above the sea, the Regione deserta is entered. The ascent is at first moderate. To the r. is seen the Montagnuolo^ the W. extremity of the Serra del Solfizio, 286 33. MOUNT ^TNA. ('rider. below which to the S. the snow-receptacles are situated. To the north this ridge descends perpendicularly to a depth of 2 — 3000 ft. to the Val di Bove, round which the traveller proceeds by the Piano del Lago after a short but precipitous portion of the ascent. i As the Casa Inglese is approached the mules begin to show signs of fatigue and impatience to reach their destination. This house, almost indispensable to the climber of ^tna, was erected by order of several English officers at the beginning of the present^ century during the occupation of Sicily. After an existence of 50 years the hut had suffered considerably from the pressure of the snow and was repaired in 1862 on the occasion of the visit of the crown-prince Humbert of Italy, hrom Nicolosi thus far 6 7 hrs. After having reposed here and partaken of some refreshment, the traveller commences the ascent of the crater, the most arduous portion of the expedition. The height appears inconsiderable, but nearly 1200 ft. have still to be ascended. The walking on the ashes, yielding at every step, on the lower part of the cone, which, as is the case with most craters, rises at an angle of 45®, is somewhat laborious. About midway the firm rock is reached and the ascent becomes easier. In 3/4 hr. the verge of the Crater, the form of which under- goes constant alteration , is attained. At one time it consists of ■ a single profound abyss, 2—3 M. in circumference, at another it is divided by a barrier into two parts, one of which only emits i smoke. The summit itself is usually altered by every eruption. This was in 1861 on the E. side, in 1864 on the W., and even . the ancients expressed their belief that the crater sank to some extent after every eruption. After a short pause the highest peak is easily ascended, as the surface is soft. From this spot the sunrise, a spectacle of indescribable grandeur, should be wit- nessed. The summit is illuminated by the morning Hvilight whilst all below is enveloped in profound obscurity. The sun still re- poses in the sea, which occasionally presents the appearance of a lofty bank of clouds, the horizon being considerably more ele- vated than the spectator is prepared for. For some time purple clouds have indicated the point where the sun is about to appear. Suddenly a ray of light flits across the surface of the water, gra- dually changing to a golden streak and a convex lens, the lower part of which shimmers in an intense purple. The beaming disk then slowly emerges. The mountains of Calabria still cast their long shadows on the sea; the summit of ^tna alone is illumi- nated. The light gradually descends to the lower portions of the mountain and the shadow which the vast pyramid casts over the island to the W. increases. The outlines of the cone and its summit are distinctly recognised, forming a colossal isosceles triangle on the surface of the island. After V4 sublime Val di Bove. MOUNT JETNA. 33. Route. 287 pectacle is over and the flood of light destroys the effect pro- need by the shadows. The profound valleys and the precipitous iOast alone remain for a time in obscurity, shaded by the loftier iiountains. As the sun continues to ascend new points become dsible. The spectator stands at the centre of a vast circle of 60 M. in diameter and 480 M. in circumference. Towards the ji.E. the peninsula of Calabria, above which masses of clouds requently hover on the N., giving it the appearance of an island, fhe Faro of Messina (the town not visible) lies at the feet, the Ifeptunian Mts. appear like insignificant hills, the Nebrodi a egree higher. The Pizzo di Palermo, the highest point of the iladonia range to the W.N.W. , and the Pizzo of Corleone and vammarata to the W. are the only conspicuous points. In win- isr, when the atmosphere is unusually clear, the motion of the /aves on the shores of the island is said to be distinguishable. L'he coast of Africa, being below the horizon, cannot possibly be dsible, notwithstanding the assurances of the guides. Malta, owever, may be distinguished and it has been asserted by cre- ible witnesses that the bay of Taranto and its E. shore are ccasionally recognised. The greater part of the E. coast of the ■dand is visible, the Lipari islands appear to greet their majestic overeign with their columns of smoke, the promontory of Melazzo xtends far into the sea, and numerous other points which cannot ,e enumerated are detected. After a walk round the crater, the traveller descends rapidly j the Casa Inglese and remounts. In descending, a slight di- •ression is made towards the E. in order that the abyss of the t'"al di Bove may be approached, a black, desolate gulf, 41/2 M. 1 width, bounded on three sides by perpendicular cliffs, 2 — ■000 ft. in height (1. Serra delle Concazze , r. Serra del Solfizio^ md open towards the E. only. Geologically this is the most -^markable portion of JEinsi. For most probably its S.W. angle, !ie so-called Balzo di Trifoglietto ^ where the descent is most rofound and precipitous, was the original crater of the moun- lin. — The traveller should not omit to direct the guides to onduct him to the two regular cones whence an eruption in ■852 proceeded. The five formed in 1865 are reached by tra- ersing the N. side of the Val di Bove, whence they are seen ) the W. of the large and remarkably regular- shaped crater of fonte Frumento. From the Val di Bove the traveller rides to le Torre del Filosofo, the traditional observatory of Empedocles, ho is said to have sought a voluntary death in the crater, ccording to others it served as a watch-tower in ancient times, s the building is obviously of Roman construction, it was pos- hly erected on the occasion of the Emperor Hadrian’s ascent of le mountain to witness the sunrise. The descent now re-com- 288 I^oute 34. LENTIM. From Cdhmia mences; the steeper portions are more agreeably and safely tra- versed on foot. Before the plain of Nicolosi is reached, the monastery of S. Nicolo d’ Arena is seen to the 1. , where the Benedictines of Catania celebrate their vintage -festival. It was founded in 1156 by Simon Count of Policastro, nephew of Roger I. Instead of returning to Catania , the traveller may prefer to proceed from Nicolosi to Taormina by Pedara Via Grande and Aci Reale and thence by the high road to Giardini (p. 271). 34. From Catania to Syracuse by Lentini. 47 M. Diligence once daily (in 1869 at 9 p. in.) in 10 lirs. ^ fare 8 1. 50 c. Steamboat 3 times weekly in 4 lirs. 5 fares 151. and 7 1. 60 c. Disembarcation 85 c. Carriage with two horses 4()— 45 1. and fee \ the dri- vers should be distinctly directed to perform the journey in one day; other- wise they spend the night at Lentini. — Unless antiquarian research be the traveller’s object, the steamboat is the preferable conveyance. — The rail- way from Catania to Lentini is now nearly completed. Beyond Lentini the works are at present suspended. The road from Catania intersects in a straight direction the| Piano di Catania^ the Campi Laestrygonii , which Cicero extols j as the ‘‘uberrima pars Sicilia3’5 They are still regarded as the granary of Sicily and the principal cotton - district of the island. Carriages are ferried across the Giarretta, the river which is for- med by the Simeto (Symsethus) on the 1. and the Gurna Lunga. In winter the entire plain is frequently under water and the road, impassable. Malaria prevails in the lower parts in summer. Thej hills by which the road ascends to Lentini afford a strikingly beautiful view of JEtna. The road then descends to the valley; of the Fiume San Lionardo (ancient Pantacyas); to the 1. of itsj influx is situated the so-called Pantano ^ a marshy pond frequen-^ ted by innumerable water-fowls in winter. The Lake of Lentini \ (Biviere di Lentini)^ which is seen glittering in the background^ to the r. , also affords abundant spoil to the sportsman or the , angler. This lake, the most considerable in Sicily, is usually' swollen in winter, whilst its exhalations in summer poison the' atmosphere (Lentini therefore to be avoided as a resting-place^ for the night). Its circumference varies from 10 to 14 M. accor-^ ding to the height of the water. ' (17 M.J Lentini (Leone POro; Vittoria, dirty; Aquila. Thej Caffe and Trattoria Trinacria affords good refreshments), the] ancient Leontinoi , with 8000 inhab. , one of the earliest Greek settlements in Sicily, was founded B.C. 730 by colonists from Naxos under Theocles, simultaneously with Catana. to Syracuse. AGOSTA. 34. Route. 289 1 A century ]ater the transition from oligarchy to democracy was succee- led by the establishment of a tyranny, by Panneetius 5 after another century succumbed to the Doric Gela and then came into the possession of Syra- cuse. The inhabitants repeatedly but unsuccessfully endeavoured to regain jieir independence. Gorgias, the great orator and sophist, was a native of iieontinoi (480—380), and by his insinuating eloquence, as is well kown, the Athenians were induced to interfere in the quarrels of the Sicilians. After lie disastrous issue of the war , Leontinoi continued subject to Syracuse, j’imoleon , however , expelled the tyrant Hicetas and restored the indepen- lence of the town. In the 3rd cent, it came into the power of Hiero II., t^hose successor Hieronymus here lost his life. Polybius, who records this vent, at the same time describes the situation of the town. It appears to ave lain to the S.W. of the present town, and not where local topographers •sually place it. Under the Romans it was of little importance. The Sara- lens gained possession of it at an early period. In the middle ages the j^rtress was several times besieged and* bravely defended. The town and iastie were almost totally destroyed by the earthquake of 1693. Numerous carriages run daily from Lentini to Syracuse (also q Catania), 6 tari per seat; the night -journey by the diligence lay thus be avoided. The road now ascends by long windings to Carlentini, a town dth 5000 poor inhabitants, founded by Charles Y. (whence the ame). The drivers generally make their midday halt here (Hotel e France, poor). The road next traverses a barren mountain- idge and descends to the valley of the Fiume MoUnello , which alls into the bay of Agosta. At the poor town of (13 M.) Villasmunda the road diverges to Agosta., whilst the aain road traverses a species of plateau at the base of barren imestone mountains, the buttresses of Monte Venera, and skirts he bay of Agosta, the ancient bay of Megara. Agosta, erected 'y Frederick II. in 1229 — 33 , is seen glittering in the distance, n the site of the ancient Xiphonia. During the middle ages the own sustained numerous disasters. It was several times con- uered and destroyed. In 1676 it was taken by the French and lere Duquesne defeated De Iluyter who died of his wounds at Syracuse. In 1693 the town was seriously damaged by the earth- uake. It is now a fortified town with 10,000 inhab. , and pos- Ijesses a spacious and secure harbour. The Megarean bay of antiquity, extending from the Capo Santa f'roce, E. of Agosta, to the Capo Santa Fanagia near ^Syracuse, ,vas formerly bordered with a number of towns. Here from N. 0 S. lay Xiphonia (Agosta), Hyhla Megara (to the S. between he mouths of the Fiume Cantara and S. Qusmano , founded in . 28 by Lamis with colonists from Megara Nissea, conquered and estroyed by Gelon, but re -erected after the Athenian and Syra- usan war as an outlying fort of Syracuse) and Aiahon. Then ^ollows the peninsula of Magnisi , connected with the mainland j y a narrow isthmus. This was the peninsula of Thapsus , well i, nown in connection with the Athenian campaign. The Athenian ! Baedeker. Italy III. 2d. Edition. 19 290 34. PRIOLO. fleet lay to the N. of the isthmus. Salt-works are now situated 1 here. On the mountains to the r. lies the small town of Meltili. Here the Hybliean honey, so highly extolled by the poets, wasi produced. On May 1st and 2nd a vast concourse of people assembles at Mellili to offer thanks to St. Sebastian for the mira- culous cures effected by him and to celebrate his festival. Near the peninsula of Magnisi lies the small village of (10 M.) Priolo , lf /2 M. beyond which stands the ^^Torre del] M(ircell6’\ probably the remains of a tomb, but commonly reputed to be a trophy erected by Marcellus here on the site of his camp after the conquest of Syracuse. The road leads thence by the Trogilus , the bay between Magnisi and Syracuse , in which the fleet of Marcellus lay. The terrace has been now for a con- siderable time visible to the traveller , which extending from the Belvedere to the promontory of Santa Panagia, bore the N. Dio- nysian town -wall. By the so-called Scala Greca the road now ascends to the plateau on which once stood the greatest city of the ancient Greeks. Near the approach to the city lay HexapyloUj a fort which defended the town on the N. side, but was taken by Marcellus who forced a passage to Epipolae on the W. The road now traverses Tycha, where the precincts of the ancient town commence. On the height to the r. lay Achradina. The Nea- polis is then passed, to the r. of which the ^‘Grave of Archimedes*’ I is shown. The lower Achradina, where the Agora was once' situated , is next intersected , and the traveller arrives at thej isthmus connecting the peninsula of Ortygia, where the modern 1 town is situated, with the mainland. 35. Syracuse and the Environs. Hotels. The celebrated Locanda del Sole, an old-established housdi which has undergone no change within the memory of man, is comfortable,, R. 2 i|* 2 1. and upwards; *Vittoria, less favourably situated in the lower, part of the town, R. from 2 1., A. i|2 1- ; Locanda dTtalia, in the Vial Amalfitania; Hotel de Scicli. The two hotels first mentioned also comprise good restaurants. Excel- lent Syracusan wines at both : Muscato , Amarena , Isola Bianca etc. ; also! fish of superior quality : Rivetto^ large and considered a delicacy, Salamone^ Dentici so called from its numerous teeth, Palamito ^ resembling salmon,, and numerous other varieties. i Cafe. ’'‘Croce di Savoia, in the Piazza del Duomo, ices 5 soldi. Guides. Baloatore Politi , sottodirettore of the Museum , where he is daily to l>e found, is intelligent and unassuming, 5 1. for the whole, 3—4 1. for iialf-a-day; he also procures carriages at 10—12 1. for a whole, 6 1. fori half-a-day (one-half of the hotel-charges). Also Mich. Angelo Politi and Bavid^ J*ieiro Alberti (speaks a little English and French). — Donkeys may be hired of Don J^aHguale., 2*|2 1. per diem. DI aTUADINA mo dern -ScdJe nel 1:20,000 Vie : VTia^SaBh-a 2,J^-S.&iaeM7iw'^^Via^SMariay itJi/inmmjziatCL ^.Y. Hcrha^Castdk l.yia SJ'aolo ore si wdvjw le rmove scMpertc del Tcmpio di IHana ^MouButtafoco Si .ViaBolitu(tine VS .Via AituiUxtiimu il.TiaCeniraleJVustraTiza 12, Via Jffastraruoy ^ rS.Via I'oTite Aretitsa Sl;.Tta,B'emmnacL ' ' J5.^^tarrfif^eilW'<>edi5foZZ£> f VU^^aLoTenxpio di Mbierra ^\ ViBatpio Tiel/a Oiiesa (& li'A'. ' i H.Fitippo ISa Giudeca j| I - i^Buffna del Siff.Bianea ■‘io, ZOBelliasinio ^tice deito Palazzo Mantaho |)/y qiT \ss rl'i^'iC at-# I^PlriiiU' JlffT’o- r Ciuinll^ 1*1? OriLTidif oiifia di nut/1i\ ('ipoUino i Zi'd'a/Ye delUi (race di Sarojft ^^J'sd'fe Arehimede 'IVt.La Postu '' Alber^hl : ■n.Alhenjo del Sole 22. d' Italia \1., Uianimstraziane diVwari Im VUtoriu Scale nel 1 ; 60,000 % MlffTTietreA ^Giscl Sa lCUSA ^jj^pfirvent.a,) Darmstaiit, Ed^ Warner Jihtjry. SYRACUSE. 3i}. Route. 291 Boat to the Cyane (p. 301) 5 1.^ to the mouth only, 1 1. The boat- ‘ men here are generally less extortionate in their demands than those in • other parts of Sicily. To or from the steamboats 85 c. for each person. ;; Ferry from the town to the Sicilian coast (Pozzo degli Ingegneri) or the i marble harbour, i| 2 — 1 1.; pedestrians thus eftect a considerable saving. Steamboats of the Florio Co. (yl. Cassia, Agent) every Friday to Agosta, Catania, Messina, Lipari, Palermo, touching alternately at Riposto and Capo d'Orlando, and at Melazzo, S. Stefano and Cefalii; every Tuesday to Licata, Girgenti , Sciacca , Trapani and Palermo , touching alternately at Terranova j and Mazzara, and at Marsala. To Malta once weekly , touching at Catania, Messina and Palermo on the return-roiile. Diligences daily to Lentini and Catania (fares see p. 287) , to Noto and i Vittoria (p. 245), and to Palazzolo and Buccheri (p. 244). Office for the two first at the post-office. Piazza del Duomo ; for the last Sig. Grano, Strada i Piazza. Syracuse, now a small town with about 20,000 inhab. , the seat of a prefect , is one of the most attractive points in Sicily. , The interest of the natural beauties vies with that of the im- ‘ posing monuments of antiquity. The town is, moreover, easily 'accessible from all directions; from the N. it is reached by the road from Catania, from the W. by that from Palazzolo, from the S. by that from Noto and from the E. by the sea. Two days at least should be devoted to Syracuse: a forenoon to the modern town, an afternoon to the excursion to the Anapo (p. 301), and one day to the old city. One visit at least should also be paid to the Greek theatre towards sunseU Sjvacuse was the most extensive of Hellenic cities. Strabo states that its circumference amounted to 180 stadia (21 31.). It consisted of five distinct portions: 1. The island Ortygia. — 2. The town on the Achradina, the precipitous coast N. of the island, one-half being situated on the plateau of limestone-rock , the other between the latter and the great harbour, ex- cluding a small portion on the N. bank of the small harbour which Diony- sius had enclosed with a lofty wall and added to the island. To the latter belonged the Small Harbour (sometimes erroneously termed the Marble Harbour'') which lay betw^een the wall and the island. The W. wall of the Achradina constructed by Gelon may still be traced by the remnants which extend towards the S. from the tonnara of S. Panagia, passing the Campagna Gargallo. Near the point where the roads from Noto and Floridia converge, the wall of Achradina probably abutted on the Great Harbour, which was als(t lined with quays. Towards the sea this secure part of the town, which could never be reduced by violence, was defended by a lofty wall. Here were the Market with its Colonnades, the Banks, the Curia, where the national assemblies w^ere held , the Pentapylon and the Prytaneum. The latter lay opposite to the island, to the r. of the road to Catania, where the Timo- leonteum, with stadium and hippodrome , and a Temple of Zeus Olympius also rose. It is not easy to determine with equal certainty the limits of the other parts of the city which lay to the W. of the Achradina on the plateau which contracts as it extends upwards tow'ards the Epipolae or fortress.^ — 3. Tyche, on the N. side, derived its appellation from a temple to For- tune. — 4. Ne a polls, situated to the 8. on the terrace above tlie great harbour, and which during the Roman jieriod descended to the plain as far as the 1. side of the road to Floridia, was termed Temenites at the time of the Athenian siege. Here were situated the Greek Theatre, the so-called I Ara, the Roman Amphitheatre, the Baths in the garden of Buonfa.rdeci, the Latomia del Paradiso and of S. Venera, and the Street of Tombs. — 5. The •' Epipola*, the higliest point of the city, forms the W. angle of the trila- ! 19 * 292 I^oute 36. SYRACUSE. Hiatory. teral plateau, so named by the Syracusans, as we are informed by Tliucy- dides, from being “above the city”. At the time of the Athenian siege tliis point was as yet unconnected With the city, although not left unguarded. The Athenians took it by storm , constructed Lahdalon., an intrenchment on the N. side, and erected a wall extending from the harbour Trogilus in a ] curve round Achradina, Tyche and the Temenites to the great harbour. The merit of surrounding these four districts of the city by a City-wall , con- I structed of huge blocks of stone, is due to Dionysius I. The N. portion was probably erected about 402. Within 20 days, it is said, 60,000 workmen i with 6000 yoke of oxen constructed a portion of the wall 30 stadia (3‘|2 M.) in length. The entire work , however , was not completed till 385. The whole "of the enclosed space could not have been occupied by houses. The | number of fountains alone enables us now to form some idea of the extent to which it was so occupied. Two vast aqueducts supplied the city, one ' of which was fed by the Buttigliara an affluent of the Anapus, situated at a great elevation among the mountains, and conveyed the water by subterranean passages, several miles in length, to the level of the Epipolse. It is there seen flowing near the summit uncovered, after which it is precipitated from the height near the theatre and finally empties itself into the harbour. The other aqueduct descends from Monte Crimiti the Thymbris of Theocritus, and also ascends to the level of the Epipolse, after which it skirts the N. city-wall , sending forth several branches S. to the Achradina. It then turns to the S. , proceeding along the coast, descends beneath the small harbour and finally emerges as Arethusa on the i island. Since the earthquake of 1169 its water has been salt. During calm weather in winter the spot may be distinguished in the small har- bour where the water wells upwards from below, under which the damaged portion of the aqueduct lies. The course of this remarkable channel is traced by means of the numerous rectangular apertures hewn in the rocky plateau, ‘in which, far below, flowing water is detected. As these openings (spiragli) do not occur in a large space between the Epipolse and the other parts of the town , that space was probably uninhabited. The Athe- nians , as is well known, cut off the supply of one aqueduct. The point where this was effected is said to be recognisable between Euryalus and Belvedere. The space on the plateau which is now partially occupied by buildings is termed Terracati. The traveller, having acquired some idea of the situation and extent of the city, will now peruse a sketch of its history with greater interest. Syracuse was founded in 734 by Corinthians under Archias on the island of Orlygia, where a Phoenician settlement had probably been established at an earlier period. The Sikelian inhabitants were reduced to the condition of serfs, and compelled to cultivate the soil. The government was conduc- i ted by the aristocracy , the descendants of the founders, who were termed Gamores. Owing to the fertility of the soil tbe colony rapidly attained to prosperity, and within 70 years after its establishment founded Acrse (Palaz- zolo) and Enna (Castrogiovanni) , and 20 years later Casmense. Camarina was founded in 599. The final issue of the contests carried on with varying success between the nobles and the people was, that Gelon in 484 extended his supremacy from Gela to Syracuse, and transferred his residence thither, lie contributed in every respect to the aggrandizement of the city, and, after i he had in conjunction 'with Theron conquered the Carthaginians at Himera in 480, the golden era of the Greek supremacy in Sicily commenced. During I a long series of years the fortunes of the entire island were now intimately connected with Syracuse. Gelon who reigned for 7 years only, was revered as a god after his death. He was succeeded by his brother JJiero J. whoso rule was characterized by the same energy and fortune. Hiero in alliance with Cumui defeated the' Etruscans , the greatest naval power of the Medi- terranean of that period; at his court Tl^lschylus , Pindar, Simonides, Epi- charmus, Sophron and Bacchylides flourished. After a reign of 10 years tjiily he was succeeded by 77irasybulus , the youngest ot the three brothers, History. SYRACUSE. 36. Route. 293 who, notwithstanding his army of 15,000 mercenaries, was banished from the city. A Democracy was now established. In the conflicts with the Si- kelian prince Ducetiiis and the Acragantines the army of Syracuse main- tained its superiority, but the city was enfeebled by subsequent dissensions between the original Syracusans and the inhabitants transplanted thither from the towns destroyed by Gelon and Hiero. Petalismus here took the place of the Athenian ostracism. Syracuse was reduced to great extremities : by the Athenians, especially when in 414, under Nicias and Lamachus (who soon fell), they stormed the Epipolae, and almost entirely surrounded the city with a double w^all , extending from the Trogilus to the great harbour. I The Lacedaemonian Gylippus however, saved the city, which gradually re- I covered strength and gained possession of the Plemmyrion ., the promontory situated at the entrance to the harbour opposite Ortygia, and occupied by IS^icias. Once more, indeed , the nautical skill of the Athenians enabled ;them to overpower the Syracusan fleet off the harbour, and they erected a trophy on the small island of La Galera below Plemmyrion ; but this was their last success. In another naval battle the Syracusans were victorious, and the arrival of Demosthenes with auxiliaries ameliorated the position of the Athenians only temporarily. An impetuous attack made by him on the : Syracusan intrenchments was repulsed in a fierce struggle during the night. Disease broke out among the Athenians, and their misfortunes were aggra- vated by dissensions among their generals. The retreat was finally deter- mined on, but was frustrated by an eclipse of the moon (Aug. 27th, 413). The Syracusans then resolved to endeavour to annihilate their enemy. They were again victorious in a naval battle and enclosed their harbour by a series of vessels , anchored and connected by chains , across the entrance, 8 stadia (1 M.) in width. And now the decisive naval battle approached. The two land-armies were stationed on the bank of the harbour and en- couraged the combatants by loud shouts , whilst the fluctuating tide of suc- cess elicited alternate expressions of joy and grief, resembling the surging of a dramatic chorus , which has been so graphically described by Thucy- dides. The Athenians were overpowered. On the following day the crews refused to attempt again to force a passage, and on the third day the aetreat , was commenced by land in the direction of the interior of the island. At Floridia., however, the pass was obstructed and the ill-fated Athenians were compelled to return to the coast. Here they were overtaken by the Syracu- sans. Demosthenes with 6000 men was compelled to surrender, and after a fearful struggle on the Asmaros , near Noto , Tsicias met with the same fate. But few escaped. The generals were executed and the prisoners languished for 8 months in the Latomiae, after which the survivors were sold as slaves, j with the exception of a few wdio are said to have been set at liberty on account of their skill in reciting the verses of Euripides. “Thus it happe- ned”, says Thucydides, “that this event was the most important which betel ithe Greeks during this war (the Peloponnesian), or indeed in any other in Greek history which is known to us.” ; A few years after the deliverance of the city from these extremities the Carthaginians overran the island. This new and imminent danger was the occasion of the rise of Dionysius I. , who presided over the fortunes of the r city with great ability from 406 to 367. Himilco, who besieged the city (from the Plemmyrium and the Olympieum, was fortunately driven away by [a. pestilence. Dionysius then chastised the allies of the Carthaginians and -Tortified , extended and embellished the city so greatly as to merit the title of its “second founder”. He converted the island of Ortygia into the seat of government, there erecting temples, treasuries, arsenals and forts. His .son Dionysius LI. possessed the vices without the virtues of his father. In 356 he was banished by his uncle Dion., and again on his return to the city by Timoleon in 343. The latter re established the tottering state and intro- duced 40,000 new colonists. He appointed Amphipolus, priest of Zeus Olym- piiis, and 1000 senators to conduct the government, but after his death in ,i336 this constitution was unable to maintain itself. The tyrant Agathocles from Therma.' (Termini) usurped the supreme power in 317 and retained it 294 lioute :ii). 8YKACi:SE. JiisU ry. until his death by poison in 289. He was a talented monarch hut a cha- racteristic example of the moral depravity of the Greeks of his time, cruel, faithless and full of fantastic schemes. Whilst he was en^a^ed in hesie^dng CarthaL^e, Hamilcar attacked Syracuse (31U) , hut unsuccessfully. On the I death of Agathocles the republican form of government was re-established, i but in 288 liicetas usurped the tyranny. His murderers Thoenno and Sostra- tus invited Pyrrhus of Epirus , son-in-law of Agathocles , from Italy , who reigned for two years. On his departure the general Hiero II. became king, who in close alliance with the Komans raised Syracuse for a second time to a brief period of prosperity (275-216). During his reign bucolic poetry arose. The code of Hiero was long the legal standard for the whole of Sicily. Under his auspices was constructed the large and magnificent vessel which was adorned bv illustrations from the Iliad. Papyrus is also believed to have been at this period introduced into Syracuse from Egypt. Hieronymus, the following monarch, allied himself with the Carthaginians, and alter his sassination the citv was held by anti-Roman agents. It was therefore besie- ged by Marcellus in 214—212 , and was defended against his attacks on the &. and from the sea bv the celebrated engineer Archimedes. During the celebration of a festival’ 1000 of the bravest Romans scaled the walls of Tvche (bv the so-called Catenaccia on the Trogilus) and , proceeding along the summit, captured , which had been erected by Dionysius. I'yche, Neapolis and the Epipolae thus fell into the hands of Marcellus, but the island and the Achradina were not yet overcome. Whilst he was at- tacking the Achradina in its entire length on the W. the besieged quitted the island in order to aid in repelling the attack. This contingency was an- ticipated by a traitor who introduced the crew of a Roman vessel into the town by means of the Arethusa and conducted them to Achradina. The city was plundered and Archimedes slain by a soldier who did not know him. In order to reduce the city's power ot resistance, Marcellus caused the island, which since the erection of Achradina had been connected with j the mainland, to be again separated and united by a bridge only, at the j same time forbidding the Syracusans to inhabit it. Thus terminated the ji glory of Syracuse, the greatest and most powerful of Hellenic cities. After the enormous booty, comprising valuable works of art, had been] conveyed to Rome, Syracuse sank to the condition of a Roman provincial! town.' In Cicero's time, indeed, it was the “largest of Greek and the most beautiful of all cities”, but it was so reduced by the civil war between Pompey and Octavian that the latter, on his accession to the throne , tound it necessary to re-people it with a new colony. The Apostle spent three days at Syracuse on his journey to Rome , and, although he did not found a Christian community there , it is certain that Christianity was esta- blished in the city at a very early period. According to tradition St. Peter is said to have sent S. Marcian hither in the year 41 . fo^ the purpose of promulgating the doctrines of Christianity. As early as 2t8 Syracuse was plundered by a band of Franks who had escaped from^captivity on the sho- res of the PiJack Sea. Belisarius took the place in 535 and made it the ca- pital of the island, and Constantius in 663—68 even transferred the seat ot government thither. One year later it was plundered by Abd- Allah- ihn-Kau. When in 828 the Byzantine general Euphemius invited the Saracens to Si- cily, they arrived at Syracuse and pitched their camp in the Latomia-, commanded by Asat-ibn-Fardt , but were soon compelled to raise the siege. In 878 the city at last succumbed to Ibrahim-ibn-AJuued after a siege ot months. The monk Theodosius gives an appalling account of the distress w the besieged and the ferocity of the victors. The spoil which they here ob- tained was greater than that yielded by any other conquest. Since that pe^ riod Syracuse has been a place of little importance. ith the aid ot tin Xormans it was again taken by the Byzantine general Jl/awmccs , but was soon recaj)tured by the Saracens , whose leader Ibrahim- ibn-Thimna subse (luentlv invited the Formans to Sicilv. lu 1085 the latter took Syracuse am strengthened the castle which the Saracens had erected to command 1^ ^sth inii.s. In this fortress the queen Bianca of Castille was besieged in 1410 oj Museum. SYRACUSE. ,^5. Route. 295 Bernard Cabrera. Charles V. established an arsenal at Syracuse and caused ti e fortifications of the isthmus to be constructed with material from the ruins of the theatre and other Greek edifices. Here in 1676, after the battle of : Agosta , the celebrated naval hero De Ruyter died and was interred in the Plemmyrium. In consequence of the fearful scenes enacted during the pre- valence of the cholera in 1837 and an insurrection against the government, the prefecture was transferred from Syracuse to Noto. In 1865 , however, ! the city was again elevated to the rank of a capital of a province and now begins to resume a share of its former dignity. A few only of the attractions of Syracuse lie within the pre- cincts of the modern town on the island, the ancient Ortygia; most of them are situated on the rocky plateau to the N.W., the site of the original city. The plain of the Anapos and a few other more distant points also merit a visit. This order is ob- served in the following description. Modern Syracuse. The Cathedral stands on the site and between the columns of a Doric temple. The columns with their capitals are still seen projecting from the sides of the church. The temple 'svas a peripteral hexastyle on a basement of three steps; length 175, width 69 ft. Of the 36 columns 13 only are visible on the N. and 9 on the S. side. They are 27 ft. in height and 6^4 ft. in thickness. It is not known to whom the temple was dedicated. From its proximity to the Arethusa, it was probably a temple of Diana. Local tradition terms it a Temple of Minerva., but the temple of that goddess , described by Cicero , in his speeches against Verres, as a sumptuous edifice containing the most costly treasures, most probably stood at the S.E. extremity of the island. The interior is of no great interest. The pilasters sepa- rating the nave from the aisles occupy the place of the ancient walls of the cella. The font, formerly in S. Giovanni, consists of an antique marble basin with traces of a Greek inscription. The * Museum is opposite the N. side of the cathedral (ad- mission daily 8 — 1 o’clock). The director is Cav. Taryia; the custodian Salv. Politi., who offers drawings on papyrus, models etc. , (1 — 2 1.) for sale (comp. p. 290). The most interesting object is the celebrated * Statue of Venus , found by M. Landolina in 1804 in the Bonavia garden. The marble is admirably treated, and the statue, somewhat above life-size, almost entirely preses- I ved with the exception of the head. The character is that of H the early ideals of Venus. A colossal * Head of Zeus., an an- cient torso of a male figure , a Greek tomb - relief (boy and old man), and a statue of JEsculapius are also remarkable. Then a Head of the Medusa in bronze, inscriptions, vases, terracottas and Roman statues from the Buonfardeci garden (p. 299), of inferior 296 Isolde 36. SYRACUSE. Temple of Duma. interest. Above the museum is a Library containing 9000 vols. and a few MSS., open 10 — 12 o’clock. The Via Aretusa leads from the S. angle of the Piazza del Duomo to the Fountain of Arethusa, of mythological celebrity. Arethiisa, pursued hither from Elis by the hunter Alpheus, is said to have been metamorphosed by Diana into a fountain. The Greeks may have discovered and so named a natural spring on the rocky island, but this fountain, which still pours an abundant stream into its basin (restored and embellished with papyrus- plants) , is most probably supplied by one of the remarkable water-conduits leading from the Achradina beneath the small har- bour. Numerous other shafts of these conduits are also observed in the island, e. g. the Pozzo di S. Filippo. The gate to the fountain is opened by the custodian (5 soldi) for those who desire to inspect it more closely. The ruins of the temple in the Casa Santoro , in the Vico di S. Paolo , are usually regarded as those of a Temple of Diana (key at the shoemaker’s opposite , 5 soldi). Recent excavations have here disclosed the remains of a highly remarkable Greek temple, a peripteral hexastyle of unusual length, which must have been flanked by at least 19 (!) columns on each side. An in- scription, on the highest step of the basement, unfortunately mutilated , is supposed to refer to the foundation of the edifice. The town also contains a number of other relics of antiquity of inferior interest. Among the remnants of mediaeval architecture the * Palazzo Montalto (Str. S. Giacomo and Vicolo Montalto) especially deserves mention. The castle on the S.E. extremity of the island contains a Gothic portal, to visit w’hich a permission from the commandant is requisite. Ancient Syracuse. Quitting the gate of the town and following the road, the traveller reaches ( 1/4 M.) a circular space from which three roads diverge: 1. to Noto, in a straight direction to Floridia and Palaz- zolo; that to the r. divides a short distance farther, r. to the Cappuccini (p. 301), 1. to Catania. The main road leading N. di- vides the ancient city into two nearly equal parts: on the E. (r.) lies the Achradina, on the W. (1.) Neapolis and the Epipol*; to the N. Tyche. Those whose time permits should not omit to traverse this road towards evening as far as the N. extremity of the city ( 21/2 J^-)? order to enjoy a view of the sea and ^tna; then to the r. along the heights, at least as far as the Tonnaraf linally returning by the boundary of the Achradina, traces of the fortilic.ations of whicli are still visible. This walk may be com- Latomia del Paradiso. SYRACUSE. .55. Route, 297 billed with a visit to the so-called 'Tombs of Timoleon and Archimedes”, situated on the 1. side of the road, about 1/4 M. beyond the path which diverges to the Amphitheatre and S. Gio- vanni (see below). These are tombs with facades of the late Doric order, arbitrarily named as above. The tomb of Archimedes, discovered by Cicero, was most probably outside the town. a. Western Portion. In a meadow to the r., a short distance from the gate of the town, stands an unfluted column, probably a fragment of a once magnificent forum (Agora). Proceeding in this direction, the traveller soon reaches the road to Catania. The latter is followed for 10 min., and then quitted by the road to the 1., at the point where S. Giovanni with its Gothic facade lies on the r. After 6 min. the traveller reaches (on the 1.) the entrance to the Amphitheatre, a structure 226Y2 fU iri length and 129 ft. in width, and apparently destitute of subterranean chambers. Nu- merous blocks of marble, appertaining to the ancient parapet, lie ■scattered in the arena; some of them bear inscriptions, recording 'the names of the proprietors of the seats to which they be- en ged. The "Custode delle Antichita”, who lives opposite to the en- jTance of the Amphitheatre, conducts visitors to the neighbouring Latomie (1/2 C). Refreshments in the adjoining house. The ^atomie , although of more recent origin than the aqueducts exemplified in the case of the Lat. Novantieri) , are extensive, ^;ystematically wmrked ancient quarries, which also served in some ases as burial-places, fortifications and prisons. The Syracusans isually compelled their captives to work here, and traces of the iuts of the custodians are said to have been discovered on some f the isolated and rounded masses of rock. The Latomia del Paradiso contains the Ear of Dionysius., ;0 named in the 16th cent., a grotto hewn in the rock in the ■orm of the letter S. , 200 ft. deep, 70 ft. in height and 15— ft. in width, the sides tapering towards the summit. It is elated of Dionysius that he constructed prisons of such acoustic ieculiarities that at a certain point he could detect every word poken in them, even when wdiispered only, and this grotto has een arbitrarily assumed to be one of these. The custodian wakens the echo by firing a pistol (5 soldi). The neighbouring Momia di S, Venera, although less interesting, also merits in- pection. Following the same road, about 200 yds. farther the traveller A'aches the extensive Ara (key kept by the custodian of the 298 Jioute 35. SYRACUSE. Greek Theatre. \ LatoniieJ. It is related of Hiero II. that he erected an altar, a stadium (furlong) in length, and this structure is probably the same, being 640 ft. in length and 74 ft. in width. Here, it is i believed , the hecatombs of 450 oxen were sacrificed , w’hich were annually offered in commemoration of the expulsion of the tyrant Thrasybulus. Turning to the r. the road next leads beneath the aqueduct to the ** Greek Theatre. This was the largest Greek structure; of the kind , after those of Miletus and Megalopolis , and was erected between 480 and 406. It is hewn in the rock in a nearly semicircular form, 486 ft. in diameter. Distinct traces of! the 46 tiers of seats are still visible , and it is estimated that 15 more must have extended as far as the summit of the ex- cavation. The 9 cunei were intersected by a broad and a narrow priccinctio, on the former of which various Greek inscriptions! are seen , recording the names of King Hiero , and the Queens Philistis and Nereis, and of Zeus Olympius, from whom the; appellations of the different compartments were derived. Philistis was, as is supposed, the second wife of Hiero I., and Nereis hisj daughter-in-law. The eleven lower grades only Avere covered withj marble. Above the theatre is the Nyniphaeum ^ a grotto into] which two water-conduits issue. Epitaphs were formerly insertedj in the sunounding walls. To the N. is the entrance to the last] sinuosity of the Ear of Dionysius (see above). From the Nymph^eum the rock-hewn Street of the Tombs di- verges. In the sides are numerous cavities and tomb -chambers, all of which have been despoiled of their contents and decorations. The traveller should follow this route to the summit of the pla- teau , and then proceed to the 1. along the aqueduct in the di-i rection of an extensive , uncompleted edifice. Beyond the latter a broad and rugged bridle-path is followed to the 1. : it soon dwindles to a mere footpath and leads (generally skirting the an- cient conduit) in IQ4 hr. to the fort of Euryalus. To the 1.^ in the plain lay the Roman NeapoUs, with the sumptuous temples of Demeter and Persephone , erected by Gelon in 480 with thd proceeds of spoil taken from the Carthaginians. In the height which is now traversed were situated the ancient Neapolis and Ternenites. Within the latter stood the Temenos of Apollo, with a statue of the god , which Verres attempted to carry off , ana which was subsequently conveyed to Rome by Tiberius. About 2 M. farther the traveller crosses the walls which appertained tc the Epipolic , situated on the higher ground on the r. , and 011 arriving at the W. extremity of the city ascends to the Fort ol * Euryalus, the point where the N. and 8. walls erected by Dionysiu.s on the table -land converged. It forms the extremity Latomia del Filosofo. SYRACUSE. 35. Route. 299 of the Epipolie and terminates towards the \V. in 4 massive towers , surrounded by two deep fosses hewn in the rock. (The custodian Giovanni di Natale, who is seldom on the spot, should be enquired for at the hotels. If unaccompanied by ladies, however, the traveller may penetrate into the different passages without assistance.) From the first of these diverge a number of subterranean issues, connected with each other and forming passages accessible to infantry and even cavalry, communicating jwith the great court behind the towers. In the rocks of the fosse opposite to these apertures are hollows, probably employed as magazines. Those to the r. contain inscriptions of letters or (lumbers which have not yet been deciphered. The village of Belvedere, which lies on the Thymbris (Monte Crimiti) , the nar- row \V. ridge extending towards the mountains , was situated without the precincts of the fortifications. The view towards the X. is remarkably fine: 1. the M. Crimiti, on which one of the mcient conduits takes its rise ; then JEtna , in front of it the broad Bay of Agosta, the ancient Gulf of Megara (p. 289); r. in :he background the mountains of the E. Sicilian coast; farther r. :he Mts. of Calabria. About half-way between this spot and the point where the road to Catania intersects the N. wall (Scala Graeca) the Athe- lian fort of Labdalon probably stood. In the valley below lay Leon , whence the Athenians stormed the Epipolse. On the S. fide, at some distance from the spectator, rises the Buffidaro, i hill with quarries (latomim), whence Dionysius procured the uaterials for the construction of the city-walls , and where he is jaid to have confined the poet and philosopher Philoxenus for having romposed verses in disparagement of the tyrant (whence the name Latomia del Filosofo^. In order to avoid returning from the Euryalus by the same ’Oute, the traveller, after following the road for 10 min. , should urn to the r. by a small farm-building, beyond which a carriage- 'oad is soon reached. This leads in about 1/2 to the Floridia hnd Palazzolo road, by which in 1/2 niore the traveller arrives it the Buonfardeci garden (entered by a gap in the wall on the oad-side). Roman Baths and a small Theatre were excavated here n 1864, but have not as yet been thoroughly investigated. Hence 0 the gate of the town a walk of 10 min. b. Eastern Portion. This part of the ancient city consists principally of the Achra- lina, remains of the fortifications of which may be distinctly traced 'll all sides. Visitors approaching this locality from the town are Recommended to cross the Small Harbour by boat (p. 291). This 300 Route 35. SYRACUSE. Catacombs. haven, with a narrow entrance capable of being closed, was se- parated by Dionysius from the open sea by means of an embank- ment. At the landing-place remains of the ancient naval magazines are seen beneath the water. A direct path here diverging from the road leads to Santa Lucia , erected on the spot where the tutelary saint of the town is said to have suffered martyrdom. The W. Portal is the only part of the original church still extant. I Over the high altar the Martyrdom of the saint , by Caravaggio. ! A passage from the r. transept leads past the tomb of the saint I to a half subterranean circular church, containing a statue of the ! saint, of the school of Bernini. — To the 1. of the church a road I leads in about 8 min. to the church of I S. Giovanni, founded in 1182, to which date the W. Portal now alone belongs. The remaining portions are all of much later date. A stair descends from the church to the crypt of St. Marcian, w'here St. Paul is said to have preached. The church, built in the | orm of a Greek cross, is incontestibly one of the most ancient Christian temples in Sicily. On each side is an apse, except on the W. where it is approached by steps. The church contains the tomb of St. Marcian , who is said to have suffered martyrdom by one of the columns of granite. On the walls are the remains of Byzantine frescoes. Adjoining this church is the entrance to the * Catacombs, the! imposing necropolis of Syracuse. (Visitors knock at the door to the r. of the church. The custodian, who is generally on the spot until the evening, accompanies visitors with an oil-lamp ; visitors, however, are recommended previously to provide themselves with an additional taper.) This subterranean city of the dead contains stories, one below another, the aggregate length of which is esti- mated at 8 M. , and extends under the greater part of the lower Achradina. The period of their construction cannot now be ascer- tained. That the early Christians buried their dead here is proved by inscriptions and frescoes on the walls , but the origin of the excavations is probably much more remote. They may also possibly have served as quarries. The recent discovery in other localities of the Phoenician mortuary chambers, which resemble the cata- combs in their formation , has given rise to the belief that they date from a pre-llellenic epoch. Other ramifications of the cata- combs have recently been discovered near the sea during the construction of the railway. The footpath passing the AY. front of the church is now' fol- lowed. It turns slightly to the r. and leads in about 10 min. to the Latomia Casale, which merits a visit on account of the plea- sant flower-garden laid out in it by the Marchese Casale. About 4 min. walk farther the path is reached which leads from S. Lucia Fountain of Cyane. SYRACUSE. 35. Route. 301 0 the upper parts of the Achradina. Following this path to the . for about 5 min., the traveller reaches the Villa Landolina (at he corner to the r. , where a road diverges at a right angle), vith a small latomia, containing the grave of the German poet 1. V. Platen (d. 1835). The traveller now returns to the same path, crosses the road nd obtains a view of the former Capuchin Monastery (10 min.) ear which is situated the * Latomia de^ Cappuccini, the wildest md most imposing of these quarries, where the 7000 captive Athenians probably once languished. From the monastery a direct pad leads back to the town (3/^ hr.), passing the landing-place f the small harbour (p. 291). \ ale 0 f the Anap o. Coast of the Achradina. Boat with 3 rowers from the Marina to the Fountain of Cyane according ) tariff 5 1. , and a gratuity of 30—50 c. ^ to the mouth of the Anapo 1 1., •here pedestrians are recommended to dismiss the boat and proceed on lot, as the navigation of the stream is tedious. The route is then from le bridge over the Anapo (on the road to Noto), across the fields in 5 iin. to the columns of the Olympieum , and thence by the bank of the :;ream to the papyrus-plants. As the boatmen usually carry their passen- 9rs across the sandbank at the influx of the Anapo, ladies will prefer to lake the excursion by driving round the great harbour. The entire excur- on occupies 3—4 hrs. Beyond the influx of the Anapo the navigation of the narrow nd deeply imbedded stream is attended with some difficulty, and ae boatmen accordingly have recourse to a towing-line. The pa- yrus-plants, 18ft. in height, which line the banks, impart a :range and almost tropical aspect to the scene. Innumerable ater-fowl frequent the thickets of reeds and creeping- plants, he right arm of the river which the boat ascends has its source I the Fountain of Cyane, the ^^azure spring”, into which the ymph of that name w^as metamorphosed for venturing to oppose luto when he was carrying off Proserpine to the infernal regions, ere the Syracusans celebrated an annual festival in honour of ersephone (Proserpine). The spring, which abounds in fish, is Dw termed Pisma. On the hill to the r. , between the Cyane and the great har- )ur, stood the Olympieum, the celebrated Temple of Zeus Olym- ius. Gelon provided the statue, the beauty of which is extolled V Cicero, with a golden robe from the spoil of Himera, which ionysius I. removed as being “too cold in winter and too heavy r summer”. The shafts of two columns are now the sole remnants the temple. It was a hexastyle and doubtless the most ancient : one temple of Syracuse. As this point is one of great strategic importance, it was usually made the basis of operations when the i 302 i^oute 36. MALIA. K. rear .non city was besieged. Here in 493 Hippocrates of Gela estabiisheo his liead-quarters. During the Athenian war the Syracusans ha fortified it and surrounded it with a Polichne , or small fortille<| town. Here, in 396, Hiniilco pitched his camp, and Hamilcar iii 310 and Marcellus in 213 succeeded in establishing themselves! The marshes of Lysimelia and Syraka ^ to the W. of the greaj harbour, however, rendered the position destructive to the besie| gers. In the vicinity of the Olympieum were situated the surnptuouj monuments of Gelon and his wife Damarata. In calm weather a pleasant excursion by boat (i^/ 2 — 2 1.) mai be made to the caverns in the rocky coast of Achradina, situate' near the small harbour, beyond the rocky islets Due Fratelli. Th| nearest of these is the Grotta di Nettuno, beyond which are severaj others in the coast as far as Capo Panayid. 36. Excursion to Malta. See Ma}) of Sicily. The steamers of the Florio Co. afford a convenient opportunity of visj ting the island of Malta from Syracuse. They start once weekly at 10 p. iJ (Mondavs) , reach Malta about 6 a. m. (Tuesdays), and quit the island agaij at 5 p.^m. Return-tickets at a reduced rate. Fare to or from the steam* Is. — The forenoon should be devoted to the town (harbour , cathedra and palace of the governor), after which the visitor is recommended to dri^ to Citta Vecchia (p. 305), about 7 M. distant (calesse, a kind of gig, thei and back 4—5 1.). — Besides the above route there is no regular steambo service from Malta except to Alexandria and Gibraltar (for England). Cod munication with Tunis is rare , except by means of sailing vessels , whicl proceed thither to procure cargoes of cattle and other live stock. Distant about 210 M., fare according to agreement (in one case 20 1. and 1 1. p^ day for food were paid). The voyage occupies about three days and is course far from an enjoyable undertaking. The group of the islands of Malta, Gozzo and Comino lies d M. to the S. of the coast of Sicily, 170 M. from the S. extr mity of Italy, and 184 M. from the African coast. Latitude La Valetta, the capital, 35^ 54', longitude 140 31'. Malta 12 M. in circumference 5 with Gozzo it has an area of 114 sj M. and a population of 144,868 souls, of whom about 10,01 are English and foreigners. The climate is extremely hot (mea temperature in winter 570, in summer 770 Fahr.). The islai rises precipitously from the sea in the form of a sterile rock a> appears at first sight entirely destitute of vegetation, the fiel' and gardens being enclosed by lofty walls and terraces of ston Through the indefatigable industry of the inhabitants the barr surface has been converted into luxuriantly fertile arable Ian partly by the process of pulverising the upper stratum of ro and partly by the importation of vegetable soil. The produce yi* (led is rarely less than lifteen to twenty fold, whilst in some i to Malta. -MALTA. 36. Route. 303 voured spots it amounts to fifty or sixty fold. After the hay or corn harvest in May and June the land is generally sown for the second time with cotton. Fruit is very abundant, especially ioranges and figs. The natives are a mixed race, being descen- dants of the various nations who have at difierent periods been masters of the island. Their language is a corrupt dialect of lArabic mingled with Italian [lingua Maltese'). English is most ‘commonly spoken by visitors and residents of the higher classes, ■but Italian is also frequently employed. The Maltese are well known throughout the Mediterranean as an enterprising seafaring and commercial people. Their island is indebted to its central position for the great strategic importance which it has ever pos- sessed. Being a convenient station on the route to the East and boasting of an admirable harbour, the island is, like Gibraltar, one of the principal bulwarks of the naval supremacy of England! Malta is supposed to be identical with the island of Ocjygia mentioned by Homer, where the nymph Calypso , the daughter of Atlas, whose cavern IS still pointed out, is represented as having enslaved Odysseus. The Phoe- nicians of Sidon most probably founded a colony here at a verv earlv ne- settlers repaired to the island (about the^year B. C. J6b) The island, now named Melite, with a capital of the same name, was P the Carthaginians about the year 400, and subsequently (B. hands of the Romans. The latter erected temples to In ti p o of '^hioh are still extant. In the autumn of B. C. 56 St. Paul was wrecked on the X. coast of the is- and and converted several of the inhabitants to Christianity. In 454 Malta r/fhP Goths, in 5^ by Belisarius for the E. Empire , in 870 by the Arabians , and again in 1090 by the Nor- mans under Roger by whom it was united with the kingdom of Sicily, in he vicis^situdes of which it participated until the Emp. Charles V. in 1530 pS \v fhpT f ^f‘or their expulsion from ^ ^ow assumed the title of knights of Malta md gallantly defended their island, one of the great bulwarks of Christianity, of the Turks. The most fearful siege they sustained Clt.n attacked by the principal armament of he Pranii M w ^i^Ie. In consequence of this event ^ blaster Jean de Lavalette founded the town of Lavalette (now the impregnable. On June 17th, 1798, Buona- io Epypt , gained possession of the town through w th^P a siege of two years, it was capturld -t” n ® n’ period been masters of the island and ,overn it chiefly m accordance with its ancient laws and institutions. La Valetta ("Ho tel Imperial, pension 85 .; '"Dans field: di Malta, all of the first class a in the English style. Carmelo Bugia.^ commissionaire at the Hotel Im- ainai, 0 I. per day. English money is the currency of the island, but rrench and Italian are also commonly employed), commenced in 1566 ■ompleted in 1571, popul. about 70,000, rises in an amphithea- ncal iorm on a promontory , which is surrounded by deeply in- dented bays. The Harbour on the S.E. side, defended by Fort 5 . Elmo and other batteries, is regarded as almost impregnable ■ he garrison consists of 2-3000 men, besides the vessels of war itatione.l here. The harbour, one of the best on the Mediterra- 304 Route 36. MALTA. nean , 60 — 70 ft. deep and sheltered from the wind, exhibits a busy scene , in which various Oriental elements are recognisable. The streets ascend precipitously from the quay , frequently by means of long flights of steps, and are far superior in cleanliness to those of other towns on the Mediterranean. The Str. I^eale, extending from St. Elmo to the Porta Peale, a distance of 3/^ M., is the principal street. The cathedral of S. Giovanni, dating from l.')76, is richly de- corated and contains the monuments of Grand Masters and knights of the Maltese Order, grouped in accordance with their various nationalities. 1st Chapel on the r. (del Crociftsso), P>eheading oi ' St. John, altar-piece by Mich. Angelo Caravaggio. 2nd Chap, r., Portuguese monuments , those of Manoel Pinto and the Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena , the latter entirely of bronze. 3rd Chap., Spanish; monuments of four Grand Masters, the largest those of Roccafeuil and N. Coloner. 4th Chap., Provem^als. 5th Chap., della Vergine , richly decorated with silver; the keys of] the town, taken from the Turks, are here preserved as trophies. To the 1. of the principal entrance the bronze monument of| the Grand Master Marc Antonio Zondadario. 1st Chap, (or Sa- cristy) contains a few portraits. 2nd Chap., Austrians. 3rd Chap., Italians; the pictures (St. Jerome and Mary Magdalene) attributed to Caravaggio. 4th Chap., Frenchmen; monuments of two Grandi Masters and of Prince Louis Philippe of Orleans (d. 1808). Oth^ Chap. , Bavarians. A stair descends hence to a vault contaimna the sarcophagi of several Grand Masters, e. g. those of LIslq Adam, La Valette etc. . r ^ . The Palace of the Governor contains a collection of pictures (insignificant) and a number of interesting weapons and trophies oi the period of the knights. — The Houses of the different natioH nalities {Auberge de Provence, P Auvergne, de France, d/Italie etc. the latter the finest) have all undergone considerable change. — Adjacent to the palace is the handsome building of the Library comprising about 40,000 vols. and a few antiquities of the Phm^ nician and Roman periods found here. Pleasant \^alk,s along thti ramparts, which are adorned with numerous statues of Grami Masters and of English Governors. The best point of view is a the Baracca Niiova. The Botanic Garden is also a favo^urit- place of resort. — On the E. side of the harbour is situated th. older part of tlie town, termed the Borgo or Citta Vittoriosa, inl habited by the humbler classes. Farther distafit is the Burmul or Citlh Cospicua, with its new docks; finally the J Isola. The entrance to the harbour is here commanded by th fort of Ricasoli. , An aqueduct, commenced in 1610, the numerous arches c whicli iFitersect the environs, supplies the town with water. I > COMING. 36. Route. 305 Palace of S. Antonio, the residence of the Governor, with a large and well kept garden (access permitted), is about 41/2 M. distant The carefully fortified Citth Vecchia or La Notabile, 2 M. farther was the ancient capital of the island and contains a few relics of the Roman period. The richly decorated Cathedral is said to oc- jcupy the site of the house of Publius, who when governor of the lisland accorded a hospitable reception to St. Paul (Acts, 28). The Iterrace commands an extensive prospect. The church of S. Paolo jis erected over a grotto, which is said to have afforded shelter to Ithe Apostle during the three months of his stay on the island. The sacristan also shows some catacombs in the vicinity. Jl Boschetto , an extensive public garden which may be visited by those who have sufficient leisure, lies 2 M. to the S. of Citta Vecchia. Comino, an island 5 M. in circumference, is almost entirely uninhabited. Gozzo, which is 24 M. in circumference and well mltivated, w'as the Gaulos of antiquity, the site of a Phoenician, ind subsequently of a Roman town. La Torre de^ Giganti, a structure of blocks of rock without mortar, possibly appertained to m ancient Phoenician temple. 37. The Lipari Islands. ! For this excursion the traveller avails himself of the steamers from tfessina (p. 264) to Palermo (ISq'-i or 8*|2 !.)• On Sunday mornings or at ludniglit, varying from week to week , steamers of the Florio Co. start for .ipari. Monday should be devoted to the island of Vulcano , Tuesday to upari, and on Wednesday morning the traveller may return to Messina bv he steamer from Palermo. In order to visit Stromboli 3 days more are equired ^ in this case Messina may be reached from Lipari Via Melazzo. he traveller who quits Messina b)”^ steamboat on Sunday may on the follow- ng Sunday reach Melazzo by a steamboat which makes this trip every ortnight, or by small boat (201.). Boat from Lipari to Stromboli and back u oU 1. Maestro Giovanni Pedellino is recommended as a guide for Vul- Giuseppe Farina for any of the islands. The only Locanda in Lipari 3 tnat ot Michel Angelo Caravella ^ at the entrance to the fort. In Strom- •oli accommodation may be obtained at the house of the Sacerdote Don iusep2ie Renda at Inostra. A visit to Lipari (from Messina and back in 3 ays, expense about 60 1. ^ to Stromboli 50 1. more) is extremely interesting, \ naturalist as well as to the admirer of the beauties of nature^ and, respective ot the varied historical associations and legendary lore inter- oven with these islands, is invariably remembered by travellers as one of , le most pleasing portions of their Italian tour. The Lipari Islands (.Molise, Liparaeae, Vulcanise, 'H(f)UiaTidde<;y volcanic origin, consist of 7 islands and 10 islets, variously named by the ncients and supplying the Greeks with a fruitful theme of speculation and oetical composition. The aborigines were Italian ^ the earliest king Liparus as a son of Auson. At the time of the Trojan war, .Eolus arrived at Li- I m , married the daughter of Liparus and became the father of six sons, j hose supremacy extended even to Sicily. Ulysses (Odyss. X., 1 and follg.) I said to have visited Aeolus also in the course of his wanderings. As the i. Baedeker. Italy III. 2d. Edition. 20 306 LlPAIil. The Lipdri number of the inhabitants liad become greatly reduced, Pentnthlus, a llera- clides like ^^:olus , established on the island a colony of Cnidians and Rho- dians, who had been unable to maintain themselves in the S.W. angle of Sicily. The new settlers cultivated the soil in common , and bravely defen- ded themselves against the attacks of the Etruscan pirates. Lipara, wdiich enjoyed tlie friendship of Syracuse, was plundered by the Athenians. The islands subsequently suffered from the incursions of the Carthaginians. In 260 the Roman admiral Cnieus Cornelius Scipio was sur- rounded in the harbour of Lipara and taken prisoner by the Carthaginians. The Romans sent a colony thither, but in Cicero's time the islands were only partially cultivated. This was possibly owing to the convulsions of nature which must have occurred , B. C. 204 , when the island of Vulc^fnello was upheaved from beneath the sea. In the year B. C. 126 eruptions under water were also here observed, destroying vast numbers of fish. In the middle aees the Saracens took possession of the island , but were expelled thence by the Normans in the 11th cent., and the Lipari group now became united with Sicilv. During the wars of the 14th cent, between the Sicilian king and the Anjous of Naples , the islands changed hands according to the varying fortune of the respective belligerents. Alphonso the Generous an- nexed them to Naples, but Ferdinand the Catholic united them finally with Sicily. In 1544 they were plundered by Haireddin Barbarossa and in 1786 suffeVed greatly by the earthquake. 1. Lipari) termed Melingunis in the most ancient times, is; the largest and most productive of the islands. Its circumference is usually stated at 18 M. , but in reality is nearly double that, number. The ancient town of the same name {XCnaQCi probably signifies “the fertile”) lay on an isolated rock on the E. coast of' the island, where the fort is now situated, around which the fer- tile slopes of cultivated land rise in the form of an amphitheatre, towards SanV Angelo, the highest mountain in the island, ex-, tending in a spacious crescent between Monte Rosso on the N. and 3/. di Guardia on the S. In the centre of the plain, between; the fort and the ascent towards S. Angelo, on the site of the new episcopal palace , were once situated extensive ancient Baths, partially excavated at the beginning of the present century, but again filled up by the bishop Todaro , in order that they might not attract visitors. In this vicinity was situated the Necropolis, where Greek tombs are still found, bearing inscriptions on the basaltic tufi-stone, some of which are preserved in the seminary. The entire area is now called Diana, from a temple to that god-^ dess which once stood here. The best collection of Liparian anti- quities is now in the possession of the heirs of Baron Mandralisca at Cefalii (p. 258). In Lipari itself the most experienced con- noisseur is probably the obliging M. Giuseppe Merconella, the notary. M. Torremuzza enumerates 23 different coins of Lipari. Population of the town about 10,000, of the island 20,000. A bishop with 32 canons has since 1400 presided over the diocese, which was formerly united with Patti. The secular administratioi is conducted by a delegate, subordinate to the prefect of Messinai The town, erected around the fort, is of modern origin. The ca- thedral and three other churches are therefore situated withii Islunds. YULCANO. 37. Route. 307 the precincts of the castle. The Cathedral and church of Addolo- rata contain pictures by Alibrandi (b. at Messina in 1470). The ;saciisty of the former commands a beautiful view towards the isea. Most of the private dwellings within the castle are now hired by government for the accommodation of about 200 manu- jtengoli (accomplices) of brigands who are there confined. The \Marma Lunga, N. of the castle, is occupied by fishermen only, iln the vicinity a warm spring. To the S., by the landing-place jof the steamboats, contiguous to the church of Anima del Parga- jtorio which abuts on the sea, are situated the warehouses of the merchants who export the products of the island: pumice-stone, jcurrants (passoline) grown on reed- trellises , sulphur, Malmsey ;wine, excellent figs etc. Oranges do not thrive on account of the scarcity of water. For domestic purposes the rain is collected on the flat roofs. The tour of the island occupies 6—8 hrs. (donkey and atten- dant 6 1.). The traveller rides first to the hot springs of San Calogero (6 M. ) which issue in a desolate valley, opening towards the W. side of the island, with such force that they were for- merly employed in the working of a mill. Temperature about 126(> Fahr. Bath-house about to be erected. The traveller proceeds thence to Le Stufe (also termed Bagno Secco)^ the vapour-baths described by Diodorus Siculus, where he may (with the aid of the guide) succeed in finding some of the remarkable fossils /vhich abound here (leaves, wood in lava etc.). SanV Angelo, the highest mountain in the island, may now be ascended. The 'extinct volcano, now overgrown with grass and broom, affords the oest survey of the town below and the entire group of islands, )f which the spectator is nearly in the centre. A path descends :hence to Capo Castagna, the N. extremity of the island, tra- rersing the Campo Bianco, where pumice-stone, sufficient for the ;mpply of the whole world, is excavated, brought to the surface py shafts and dragged down to the coast (Baja della Pumice) on perilous path (a walk or 3)^ hr.) by men, women and children, /rom this point the traveller returns to the town. r 2. Vulcano (GeguiOGu, ’lega, Vulcanla, Therusia) , with its ’Onstantly smoking crater (Sicil. La Fossa), presents a striking contrast to the fertile Lipari. A narrow isthmus connects it with I he smaller island of Vulcanello, which according to Orosius (IV. 20) vas suddenly upheaved about the year B. C. 200 and has since etained its original form. In order to visit the great crater, the raveller proceeds by boat with 2 rowers (4 — 6 lire) from Lipari II 1 hr. to the Porto di Levante , the bay which separates Vul- ano from Vulcanello, and disembarks near the sulphur-works of he Neapolitan family of Nunziante. A good foot-path (the pecu- 20 * 308 Route 37. STKOMIiOLI. liar hollow reverberation produced by a heavy footstep should be observed^ leads in 40 min. to the summit of the \olcano , into which the traveller may descend, especially during the prevalence of the Sirocco, when, like Stromboli , it emits less smoke. The greatest diameter of the crater is upwards of M. The preci- pitous walls on the E. , S. and W. are covered with yellow in- crustations of sulphur, and flames issue perpetually from a fissure in the S.E. corner, which, however, are more distinctly visible by night. Beautiful specimens of pink sublimates of sulphur, pure alum, ammoniacal salts etc. may here be purchased of the work- men. After descending the traveller should visit a boiling -hot sulphur-spring, which issues at the Porto di Ponente, a few paces from the shore, and then return to Lipari. (Provisions should be brought from Lipari, as nothing can be procured from the work- men of the manufactory, who live in caves and subsist on bread and ricotta or goats’ cheese, here termed frutte di mandra.) 3. Isola delle Saline A/^Hh'^r?=twins, Arabic Geziret Dmdima) consists of the two cones of extinct volcanoes, Monte Vergine to the N. and Monte S(dvatore , also termed Malaspina, to the S. ; whence the Greek appellation. The island is extremely fertile, and the almost exclusive source of the celebrated Malmsey. It may ' be visited from Lipari on the same day as Vulcano. Its 4 villages | contain about 5000 inhabitants. j 4. Filicuri (M>oivty.ovocc , Arabic Geziret Ficuda), to the W. ' of the latter, in ancient times clothed with palms, whence the Greek name, is now almost entirely uncultivated. 5. Alicuri, called ^pQixotoa by the ancients, because clothed with furze only, is the loftiest of the Lipari islands (2495 ft.). Circumference 7 M. Population 500 shepherds and fishermen. No tolerable landing-place. 6. To the N.E. of Lipari is situated a small group of islands, which were possibly once connected , as one of the remarkable eruptions recorded by Orosius and Pliny took place here B. C. 126. The largest of these is Panaria Cly.iaia), which the ancients did not reckon as one of the 7 ^olian islands (instead of it they' regarded the small island of Lisca Bianca, or Ev(6vvf,iog, as one of the 7), 8 M. from Lipari and almost entirely uncultivated. The island of Basituzzo contains a few relics of antiquity. 7. Stromboli, N.E. of Lipari, named ZTQoyyvkr] on account of its circular form. The ancients regarded it as the seat of TEolus, for which Pliny gives the unsatisfactory reason, that the weather could be foretold three days in advance from the smoke i of the volcano. It is usually stated that Vulcano and Stromboli smoke most copiously during the Sirocco, but the islanders con- If a£r vn U -s? SARDINIA. 38. Route. 309 tradict this, and whilst a Sirocco was blowing the editor observed but a feeble column of smoke. In the middle ages Charles Martel was believed to have been banished to Stromboli. Returning icrusaders professed distinctly to have heard the lamentations of tortured souls in purgatory, to which this was said to be the jentrance, imploring the intercession of the monks of Clugny for jtheir deliverance. Odilo of Clugny (d. 1018) therefore instituted Ithe festival of All Souls’ Day. j The cone of Stromboli (2470 ft.) is one of the few volcanoes lin a constant state of activity. The crater lies to the N. of the ^highest peak of the island and at regular intervals ejects showers of stones , almost all of which again fall within the crater. The traveller may therefore approach to the verge and survey the in- terior without danger. 38. Sardinia. Sardinia (Ital. Sardegna, Grk. Sardo), situated between 38« 52' and 41o vr* Strait of Bonifacio, is 115 M distant from Africa, lo 8 M. from Italy and 180 M. from Sicily, and nter the latter is the largest island in the Mediterranean. Its length from breadth from E. to W. 69 M., its area 9261 sq. M , ts popiil. 588,064 souls. About nine-tenths of the island are mountainous he only extensive plain is that which lies' between the gulfs of Cagliari and Jristano. The mountains, corresponding in direction with those of Corsica, dretch from N. to S.; their chief formation, especially in the N. portion is granite, next to which are tertiary rocks, here and there broken by extinct volcanoes. The central part of the island is much less elevated than Cor- >ica, but of considerably greater breadth. Bi'uncu Spina, the highest peak ihe Gennargentu, is 5904 tt. in height. There are no rivers of importance n the island 5 the largest is the Tirso, which falls into the Bay of Oristano. ihe ^05a descends to the E. coast, the Coghinas to the N. Sardinia is sur- ounded by a number of smaller islands, e. g. Asmara, La Maddalena, Ca- brera (property of Garibaldi) and Tavolara on the N., S. Antioco and i. Bieiro on the S.W . etc. The coast is somewhat monotonous and unin- eresting; the finest part is on the S. side, where the Bay of Cagliari is ituated. Sardinia was once one of the granaries of Rome, but owing to the parseness of the population has now lost all claim to such a distinction V uncultivated, whilst among the mountains Dout 15 th of the area is clothed with forest. The chief exports are the omjnodities yielded by the mines (lead the most abundant; then silver ron, copper, brown coals etc.), the produce of which is said to have in- reased tenfold within the last twenty years. Most of them are worked by oreign capitalists. Agriculture is also gradually improving. In all respects owever, the island is far inferior in development and civilisation to the 'nainiand. In the first place roads for the transport of the products of the ^ountry to the coast are much wanted. Then the malaria, or Intemperie as 1 ' I® called, renders the island, with the exception of the larger towns, ; n habitable for strangers from .July to October. Fever, which prevails prin- j ipally on the low ground, frequently extends its ravages to a considerable ! eight, in consequence of which during the period above mentioned the I deserted. The climate of Sardinia has alwavs been regarded as nhealthy but the evil has become greatly aggravated ox^^ing to the defective 'ilture of the soil. The natives, hfiwever, appear to be habituated to 310 1^0 ate 38. .SARDINIA. clangers, which would often prove fatal to strangers. The principal pre- caution they employ consists in wearing fleeces, a usual costume of the Sardinian shepherds, who, to the no small surprise of travellers, present the appearance of being closely enveloped in fur under the scorching rays ot a June sun. Another great obstacle to the prosperity ot Sardinia is the de- plorably defective state of education, in which respect the island is far behind all the other provinces of Italy. Out of 10(K1 inhabUants Jll are totally unable to read or write (in Lombardy 599, in Sicily 902). The Sardinians, with the exception of the inhabitants of Cagliari and Sassari, have as yet been little influenced by the modern advances of civili- sation, and in remote districts the traveller may imagine himself transferred to a period several centuries earlier. The inhabitants, who are probabh of the same race as the Corsicans and belong to the Iberian tamih, more resemble the Spaniards than the Italians in character, and this peculiarity was doubtless confirmed by the long duration of the Spanish supremacy. Their demeanour is grave and dignified compared with the vivacity of the| Italians and exhibits a frequent tendency to melancholy, harmonizing weL with the sombre black and white of their national costume. The latter consists of a blouse of black cloth without sleeves (colettu)^ black gaiters (borzaghinos), a black Phrygian cap {barefta), white knee-breeches and white shirt sleeves adorned on festive occasions with large and handsome goln buttons. The long gun slung across the back is rarely discarded even by the peasants whilst engaged in agricultural pursuits, and a curved knife in] a sheath of leather, frequently of the dimensions of a small sabre, com- pletes their equipment. The fierce and warlike disposition of the ancient] Sardinians still manifests itself in the revengeful spirit of their descendants, which occasionally leads to deadly feuds and is a serious obstacle to thtj increase of the population. The number of assassinations is computed at KXX) annually. These faults, however, are to some extent counterbalanced by the sterling virtues peculiar to a primitive and untutored race, viz. their unwavering fidelity to their sovereign, their chivalric sense of honour and their hospitalitv. National poetry is carefully cultivated and is remarkable for its plaintive character. The language consists of a number of dialects, differing widely in many of their roots ; several of them closely resembld] Spanish, or rather Latin (e. g. bona dies, good day). Strangers utterly impossible to understand or make themselves understood anywher^ except in the larger towns. 1 The antiquities of Sardinia are also in consonance with_ the othe^ peculiarities of the country. Those which date from the periods of the| Carthaginian and Roman supremacy or from the middle ages are tar in ferior to those of Italy and Sicily. Unusual interest, however, attaches t.j the curious relics of a far more remote and even pre-historic epoch. Ihesn are the so-called Nuragghi or Noraglie., found in no other district, except the Balearic Islands, where they are termed Talayots.^ Thev cornea^ monuments with truncated summits, 30—60 ft. in height, 3D-y-100 tt. ^ diameter at the base, constructed of unhewn blocks of stone without mor tar. They are situated either on isolated eminences among the mounUml or on artificial mounds on the plaints. They generally contain two or thre' conically vaulted chambers, one above the other, and a spiral staircase con structed in the thickness of the wall ascends to the upper stories. Gener^ La Marmora counted upwards of 3000 towers of this description, and then number is still verv great, although the advance of agriculture has neces^ sitated the removal of many of Ihem. A number of conjectures have bee formed respecting the destination of these enigmatical structures, whic have been variously represented as dwellings, temples and even as ligm houses (!). The most common and probable supposition, hovyever, is * la they are monunumtal tombs, erected by the aboriginal inhabitants oi th] island, befoni the arrival of the Phoenicians and Greeks^ The tlraves (Tumbas de .so.s Kalamdki, part of the way by a road constructed by the Austrian Lloyd. L. the high mountains of Megaris, Gerania {Tegavata) are seen; r. the ruins of the wall which once traversed the | isthmus from sea to sea, and of the sliding road (Diolkos) for j ships and goods running parallel to it. After a drive of ^2 I at some distance from the road are the scanty remains of the | Isthmian Sanctuary, where the Isthmian games were once cele- j brat(Ml in honour of Poseidon. When the road descends, Kala- ( mdki , the ancient Schoinos , becomes conspicuous ; immediately to Athens. PIRAEUS. 39. Route. 327 lifter the traveller’s arrival the steamer starts for Piraeus. R. the mountains of Corinth and Argos remain in view; the summits of Kyllene afterwards appear to the W. with Acrocorinth ; to the E. iEgina emerges from the sea; 1. the barren heights of Sala- mis, which here descend abruptly to the sea. As soon as it is passed , the mountains of Attica become visible ; in the fore- ground the hills surrounding Parnassus, farther S. the heights of Hymettus. Landing at Piraeus see p. 325. The new part of the Piraeus through which the steamboat steers presents nothing worthy of note. As soon as the town is quitted, traces of the ancient walls of the Piraeus are observed on the r., at the point where the road rises slightly. The road itself is constructed on the long N. wall which anciently connect- ed the Piraeus with the city. Then to the r. appears the Monu- ment of Caraiscakis, one of the heroes of the war of independence, situated near the spot where the long S. wall united with the fortifications of the Piraeus. Beyond it is the Bay of Phaleron, running far into the land, with a royal bath-establishment. — The mountains on the 1., now termed Scaramanga, the jEgaleus -and Poikilon of antiquity, are low buttresses of Parnes. A stone bridge here crosses the generally dry bed of the Cephissus. Vine- yards are then passed, and farther on, the outskirts of the an- cient olive-grove (p. 356) which occupied the plain of the Cephis- sus, are traversed. A halt is usually made at some taverns half- way in order to water the horses , and the traveller may here order a lovxovf.iLa {ov pron oo), a kind of sweetmeat composed of sugar and rosewater , much in vogue in Turkey and Greece, or a ‘petit verre’ (^Qay.C) of fxaGrC/a (/ slightly guttural), a liquor of not unpleasant flavour, which becomes milky in appear- ance when diluted with water. Each of these refreshments costs 10 lepta {6ixa X^ma). — The olive-plantations are soon quitted, and a hill passed which conceals the Acropolis from view. Beyond the hill the well-preserved Temple of Theseus becomes visible below; on the r., above it the Acropolis, in the background the monument of Philopappus, in front of the latter the Areopagus, and farther to the r. the observatory. — The miserable houses of the Hermes Street soon exclude this view. Farther on the houses improve; on the 1. the broad Athena Street diverges. The traveller then reaches the centre of the city, at the inter- section of the JKolus and Hermes streets, passes round the interesting church of Capnikaraa , and (with a view of the lofty modern cathedral on the r.) arrives at the spacious palace square, where the hotels are situated. The Railway between the harbour and the city, after much delay, has at length been completed (1869). It crosses the road soon after the Piricus is quitted, and traverses higher ground, af- 328 Route 39. ATHKNS. Hotels. fording a survey of the olive-groves and the N. part of the plain of Athens. The station is at the foot of the Temple of Theseus, at the lower extremity of the Hermes Street. — Fares 1 dr., 75 1., 45 1. — Trains every hour between the Piraius and Athens, but on his first arrival the traveller will find a carriage preferable. Athens. Hotels. *PIdtel d’Angleterre, ^Grande Bretagne, "^des Etr angers, all in the palace square. Hotel de la Couronne, and de I’Orient, both in the ^Eolus Street. R., B., D. etc. 12 fr. per day. — The traveller is recommended not to attempt to dine at any of the numer- ous restaurants as they are generally very dirty , and the viands unin- viting. Cafes numerous, but not very attractive. The coffee is prepared in the Oriental manner and imperfectly cleared. Charge at the smaller cafes- {y.uipcpEithi) 10 lepta per cup^ at the Cafe de la Grande Bretagne (in the palace square) and the Cafe de Luxembourg (near the /TAuts/k , or Place de la Concorde) 15 1. At the Cafe Trjii (jjQcdug (‘of beautiful Greece’) coft’ee with milk and bread 35 1. Confectioners. Salon’s ^u’/ugonluoTeioP (i. e. confectioner’s shop) at the corner of the Stadium and .eq(). How much does it cost: ndoov -/.ooTt^Eil The attention of wai- ters is attracted by ay.ovGov (listen) or EAuxtov (come). A light for a cigarette (pmid. No is but the most expressive negative is the slight raising of the head and eyebrows termed by the ancients &vavEVEiv. Not is dtry yes val (pron. nay) or /uS.ioia. Money I have fc/w etc. The nu- merals are the same as the ancient. - The ordinary traveller, however, who limits his excursions to Athens and the immediate environs, will ge- nerally find French, Italian, English and even German (at the hotels) suffi- cient for his purpose. Antiquities, genuine, but expensive, at ‘La Minerve’ in the .^Eolus Street, opposite the Chrysospiliotissa church. Many are still found annually in the classic soil of the city and its environs. Money: 1 drachma — 100 lepta = 90 centimes. Pieces of one and five drachmes (the latter termed ’'OOcuvEg) are however rare. The most common coins are 5 and 10 lepta pieces, Cfidv^iyEQ or pieces of 95 lepta, and francs- or lire at 110 lepta. Sicilian dollars {i%c).E()u) are universally current at 5 dr. 70 1., C)l(l Bavarian, Saxon (or Polish) and Austrian dollars at 5 div 80 1. , Spanish , Bolivian , Peruvian and Mexican dollars at 6 dr,, shillings at 1 (Ir. 40 1. ; even Turkish coins arc sometimes encountered. — Banknotes of 10, 12, 25, 30 and 1(K) drachmes are everywhere received at their full value. — The French monetary system, to be introduced in 1870, will put DflTnwtadi Ed.A\a5>’i Costumes. ATHENS. 39. Route. 329 an end to much confusion. The drachma will then be equivalent to 1 fr. ^hi^on ^ these pieces , with the head of king George , are already in cir- Tobacco for making cigarettes (y.unrdg, literally ‘smoke’) and cigarettes paper (^tyctQOxciQTo) 10 lepta. Better quality of tobacco termed noliTiyo^ y.anrdg — Cigars (nwQo)^ bad. Hamburg cigars at 10—15 lepta at Liewen’s, opposite Wilbergs. Turkish hookahs {vaQyi.U) are supplied to customers at the cafes. Tickets for the Acropolis (gratis), obtained at the office of the minister ot instruction , may be sent for from the hotel; but admission is also ob- tained by payment of a gratuity. Tickets, however, are necessary for a moonlight visit, which will be found very impressive. Carriages, per hr. 2—2^2 dr., per day 22—25 fr., and Horses, 8—10 fr. per day, both to be had of the hotel-keepers. Guides unnecessary. If desired, enquiry should be made at the hotels Per day 6-8 fr. Costumes in great variety render a walk in the streets of Athens very entertaining to the stranger. The national Greek, or rather Albanian is the commonest. It consists of a high fez with long, blue tassel, a blue or red jacket with open sleeves and richly embroidered , a vest of similar description, shirt with wide and flowing sleeves, a leathern belt with a pouch for weapons, the white ‘fustanella’’, short breeches, red gaiters and pointed red shoes. — Artisans, and especially the inhabitants of the is- lands (ri'/a/wT«G, wear a different costume of Turkish origin: high fez worn upright, short dark-coloured jacket, red vest and short wide trousers of dark green or blue calico, calves with or without stockings, and shoes with buckles. The Cretan costume is similar , but high boots are worn instead of shoes. In cold or wet weather a cloak with a hood {y.dnnu), made of goats’ hair, is worn by all classes. The women generally wear ‘French’ clothing, but sometimes adorn their heads with a fez with gold tassel. The Albanian peasant- women alone still retain their national costume, con- sisting of a long petticoat embroidered on the sleeves and skirt, with a short white woollen dress above it; they adorn their hair and necks with chains of coins strung together. — Many fine figures and handsome faces vyill be observed among the men, but the Greek type of beauty appears en- tirely to have deserted the fair sex, especially in Attica, where intercourse with foreign countries has altered the character of the race. The ancient ideal is now to be sought for in a few of the remote mountain-valleys alone. Post and Telegraph Offices. Post-office in the Stadium Street, near the offices of finance. Letters from England , France and Germany arrive on Thursdays. Letters for England and France should be posted on Thursday evening , for Germany on Saturdays before 2 p. m. — Telegraph - office in the 'Oddi; Ttjg at the back of the unfinished ^ovlr;, or hall of the de- puties. Telegrams may be given in any language. Athens is situated (370 53 ' lat.J in the great plain of At- tica, which is watered by the Cephissus , the only river of Attica containing water in summer, and the Ilissus , a brook filled only in wet weather. On the N. and N. W. the plain is bounded by Fames and its spur fEgaleus ; on the E. and S. E. by Brilessus, or Pentelicon, and Hymettus ; on the S. and W. by the Saronic gulf. In the centre of the plain rises a range of hills, now termed Turco Vuni, running from E. to W., and separating the valleys of the Cephissus and Ilissus ; the highest of these is the Lycabettus (Mt. St. George). The latter is separated by a broad depression from the Acropolis with the Areopagus and a range of bills farther to the W. (the Fhilopappus or Museion^ the 330 ATHENS. Topography. hills of the Pnyx and the Nymphs, pp. 353, 354), which slope gra- dually towards the sea. The modern city lies in the above-mentioned depression and stretches towards the plain of the Cephissus, whilst ancient Athens during the height of its prosperity comprised the S. side of the Acropolis and the hills to the W. Athens has never been entirely abandoned since its lirst foundation. Long after its political fall it continued to be frequented as a school of philosophy, and compared with other Greek towns enjoyed great prosperity. In the middle ages it was the seat of the Franconian dukes, who were at length superseded by the Turks. In modern times, especially in the wars of independence , the city suffered so se- verely, that in 1835 , when the seat of Government was trans- ferred hither from Nauplia, it had dwindled down to a poor country-town , with about 300 houses , whilst it had once num- bered 150,000 inhabitants. The Piricus had ceased to exist both in fact and in name. The harbour with a few fishermen’s huts was termed Porto Leone., from a lion which the Venetians carried off in 1687 to adorn the Arsenal at Venice. Since that period, however , Athens has gradually become the most populous city (42,000 inhab.) in Greece. The harbour-town of Pirseus, with 6500 inhab., is rapidly increasing. Athens is indebted for its pre- sent thriving condition chiefly to its ancient prestige, its situation not being favourable for the capital of modern Greece. Neither commerce nor manufactures flourish here , as the city lies off the great thoroughfare of traffic, and Attica itself is unproductive. The fact of its being the seat of government and the focus of intellectual activity and modern culture now contributes mainly to its extension and development. The modern part of the city, planned principally by M. Schau- bert, a German architect, is handsome and well-built, and resem- bles other towns of modern Europe. Two straight streets, inter- secting each other nearly in the centre of the town , constitute the chief arteries of traffic. One of these , the Hermes Street (Oi^og ^EQfxov") begins at the palace square and extends N. to the railway station, Avhere, at the church of Agia Triada, it unites with the road to PirJEus. The other main street, that of JEolus i (Odog Aiokov), stretches from the ‘Tower of the Winds’, about the middle of the N. slope of the Acropolis, across the entire | city, and is prolonged as the ^O^og IlaTiaoCag as far as the vil- j lage of Patissia. The point of intersection of these streets, where j t\\e' ilgaCa ElXdg cafe is situated, and a part of the TEolus Street towards the S. form the favourite rendezvous of the male loungers of Athens. Here, and in the adjoining bazaar, the greatest va- riety of costumes will be observed. Numerous and tortuous lanes diverge from these main streets, but the traveller should avoid Varvakion. ATHENS. 39. Route. 331 venturing into these intricate purlieus. The palace square and the Place de la Concorde {IIlarHa trig ^Of^ioioCa?) form the nu- cleus of another network of streets towards the N. side of the city; the Neonohg, or new town, consists of broad and straight streets planted with trees (Boulevards). The two ‘places’ are connected by the Stadium Street (^Odog ZradCov) and the University Street [Odog Harem GTYj^Cov). In the former, when entered from the palace square , the ^ovXt] , or house of the delegates , is situated on the 1.; then the offices of the minister of finance, also on the 1., with a pleasant, shady garden in the rear. On the r. of the latter the small church of St. Theodore, one of the most ancient in Athens, and an interesting example of the Byzantine style. Farther on in the Stadium Street, on the r., is the post-office {ra/vdQOfxeiov), and adjoining it the office of the Greek steam- boats. To the r. in the University Street is situated the Rom. Cath. church, then the eye - dispensary (^oifxfal/iioxo^eTov^ , and the new Academy, now being constructed of Pentelic marble at the instance of Baron Sina; adjacent to the latter is the University {^IlaveTTiGTfjpiiov^, designed by Hansen. The University, founded in 1837, and organized on the Ger- man system, possesses four faculties (theology, law, philosophy and medicine), which are taught by a staff of professors and lec- turers. Connected with the university are the observatory (aarf- QoGy.oTieTov') on the hill of the Nymphs, built and fitted up by Baron Sina, a pharmaceutic school, a library with 120,000 vols., a collection of coins , a cabinet of natural history and an ana- tomical museum. All these collections are preserved within the precincts of the university buildings. The number of students {if OLTrirai^ is 1200 , of professors , ordinary and extraordinary {jazTixol y.at exTayroi yM&riyr]TaC) 60, of private lecturers (ixf ri- yrjTaf) 12. — Farther on in the same street, on the 1., is the richly endowed Arsakion , a girls’ school , named after its founder ligodyrig, the only establishment of the kind in Greece. From the Place de la Concorde the Athene Street (fOdog vdg) runs due S. , expanding about half-way into a neglected ‘place’, on the 1. side of which there is a carriage-stand. On the r. is the Varvakion, a grammar-school named after its founder Bagfidyrjg. It contains the * Collection of the Archaeological In- stitute {aQ/aioXoyiyg iratgCa'), accessible Mond. and Wed. 3 — 5 o’clock (visitors knock at the gate to the r. on the ground- floor). Room to the r. of the entrance : plate in the archaic style, Thetis bring- ing his armour to Achilles , at the sides Neoptolemus and Peleus. Lecythi (slender vases) with coloured reliefs. Mirror-box in bronze, with woman on horseback in relief. Several small comic figures in terracotta. — Corner- room ; vases, bronzes and terracottas. "Large vase (on a separate table) re- presenting a scene of mourning, beautifully designed and execiited. In an 332 Koute 39. ATHENS. History. adjoining glass-cabinet two ancient vases, burial and mourning scenes, be- tween these a toy, with Peleus and Thetis on one side, and Hercules and a sea-monster on the other. To the 1. of the entrance a remarkably fine ^Lecythus, with violet drawing on a white ground; on the r., near the door, well executed terracottas, warriors in relief, in the middle trinkets, chiefly golden wreaths from Attic tombs. — In the antechamber: marbles, among them a large table with combats of wild beasts , and an interesting barbarian’s head. — In the adjoining room : later Greek portrait-heads, most of them of presidents of the old gymnasia, Minotaur as fountain-tigure, tomb-reliefs, a fine archaic torso from ^Egina etc. — In the last room: painted terracottas, ancient toys and knicknacks, architectural fragments with traces of painting. — Small room opposite: Egyptian antiquities and weapons of the flint-period. Another road leads direct from the Place de la Concorde to the Pirseiis (line view of the sea by evening light); the Poly- technic , situated in this street , is about to be transferred to a handsome edifice adjoining the site of the proposed Museum in the Patissia Street. — From the palace square a boulevard leads S. to the Theseion, passing round the Acropolis. The above de- scription will enable the traveller to find his way to all the prin- cipal points of interest. The natives, be it observed, very rarely appear to know the names of the streets. At a very early period the favourable situation of this part of the plain of Attica near the sea, around a rock admirably adapted for the erection of a fortress, and w'atered by two rivers, one of which was never dry (a rarity in Greece), attracted numerous settlers to the site of Athens. Of these some migrated from the coast- districts, others from inland countries, and founded a number of adjacent colonies. The more warlike settled on the Acropo- lis and its S. slopes , near the Phalerus , the ancient harbour of the city. The union of these settlements into one city {txoiv), and of the whole of Attica, originally consisting of 12 separate lordships, into a single state iovvom'Giuog) , is said to have been effected by Theseus, whilst the city derived its name from Athene , the tutelary deity of the fortress. From that period the numerous foundations in the rock to the W. of the Acro- polis , and the semicircular structure in the same neighbourhood , bounded by a massive wall of huge stones (Pelasgic construction) below and a pre- cipice of rock with projecting square stones above (commonly termed the Pnyx , i. e. the Athenian place of assembly), are believed to date. The long period of six or seven centuries of peace enabled the state to pass gradually from the monarchical to a more independent form of government. After the death of Codrus (1066^ the kings were superseded by responsible archons, at first elected for life, afterwards for ten years only, and at length superseded in their turn in 633 by nine annual archons. Solon in 594 endeavoured to check this levelling democratic tendency by his salutary laws, according to which a certain census or fortune was a necessary quali- fication for the different offices, and the political rights of the other classes of citizens were definitely graduated (‘timocracy’). Notwithstanding his efforts, however, he lived to see the supreme power usurped by the tyrant (i. e. sole governor) Pisistratus , an ambitious man, but a mild ruler and a patron of art (560). Although twice banished he succeeded in retaining the sovereignty till his death, and bequeathed it to his two sons Hippias and Hipparchus. — Athens was indebted to the Pisistratides for a most brilliant development, and now began for the first time to display a taste for art and decoration. In the valley to the N. of the Areopagus, to the E. of the Theseion, the market-place was founded ; the Acropolis, again the seat of the sovereigns as it had been in the earliest period of Attic history , was covered with sumptuous edifices ; and the foundations of the magnificent temple of Zeus Olympius, remains of which are still extant, were laid on the History. ATHENS. 39. Route. 333 Ilissus. All this magnificence, however, could not compensate for the absence of constitutional liberty. In 514 Hipparchus fell by the hand of Harmodius and Aristogeiton , two Athenian youths , and in 510 Hippias was banished with the aid of the Spartans. Under the guidance of Cleisthenes , however vdio contributed greatly to restore a complete democracy, Athens succeeded in shaking off the Spartan supremacy, and in greatlv extending her power by a victorious war against Thebes and Euboea (509). During the war with ^gina, which at that period was greatly superior to Athens in maritime power the Attic fleet was also gradually developed. For its most remarkable rise’ however, the little state was indebted to the Persian wars. ^ The petitions of the oppressed Greek cities in Asia Minor for help had been responded to by Athens alone, and she therefore drew on herself the resentment of Darius, king of Persia. An army of upwards of 200,000 men, with a vast fleet, was sent by him across the ^gean Sea, and the complete destruction of Eretria and Euboea, which had also rendered assist- ance to Asia Minor, appeared but the prelude to the fate of Athens. But contrary to all expectation the Athenians under Miltiades , supported by the Plataeans alone , totally defeated the Persian army , although fifteen times greater than their own , in the plains of Marathon , Sept. 12th, 490. The position of Athens was rendered still more powerful and glorious by the memorable campaign of Xerxes against Greece. The Spartans under Leo- nidas, after a heroic resistance, had been destroyed at Thermopylee, and the entire army and enormous fleet bore down on Attica to avenge the defeat of Marathon. The Athenians sought refuge in their ships, abandoning the city to the enemy; but the power of the latter was totally destroyed by the decisive naval battle in the straits of Salamis, Oct. 5th, 480, due mainly to the firmness of Themistocles. The Athenians had hardly re-erected their city when they were again compelled to abandon it by the invasion of At- tica by Mardonius with the remnant of the Persian army, which however was finally defeated in the Plains of Platsea in 479. The state which had acted the most prominent part in the w^r now reaped the greater share of its advantages , viz the leadership in the war of retribution , and the hege- mony of most of the continental states and of all the islands of the Archi- pelago. It therefore happened that the re-erection of the city was contem- poraneous with the period of its greatest glory; money flowed in from all quarters, and art was developed to its highest consummation. Three men participated in the task. Themistocles provided for the safety of the city and the harbour, which he prudently transferred to the Piraeus; Cimon embellished the lower part of the city, especially the market-place, and completed the fortification of the Acropolis by the wall on the S. ; and finally Pericles , aided by Phidias , brought the architectural activity of the day to its culminating point, and embellished the Acropolis with those im- mortal works which have been the wonder of all ages and are unsurpassed in excellence of design and perfection of execution. Whilst the city was thus undergoing embellishment , the state progressed steadily in spite of all obstacles : the democracy was perfected , the Persians had been defeated by Cimon in two glorious battles (on the Eurymedon, and at Salamis in Cyprus) and on the continent of Greece Athens had attained the culminating point of her power, which she enjoyed until the long fostered jealousy of Sparta led to open war. After various vicissitudes the Peloponnesian War (431 — 404) ended with the complete humiliation of Athens and the Piraeus; the ‘long walls’ between the city and harbour were taken down, the fleet was surrendered, and an oligarchy of ‘Thirty Tyrants’ established at Athens by the Spartans. In 403 Thrasybulus succeeded indeed in restoring the demo- cracy; in 393 Conon, after having defeated the Spartans in the naval battle of Cnidus, rebuilt the long walls, and Athens succeeded in forming new alliances with some of the islands ; but all this was but a feeble reflex of her ancient glory. In vain did Demosthenes exhort his fellow-citizens and me whole of Greece to resist with energy the encroachment of Philip of Macedon; and when at length they were roused from their apathy, it was 00 late. The liberty of Greece was for ever extinguished on the battle- 334 i^oute 39. ATHENS. History. field of Chseronea (338). After that period Athens never succeeded in re- covering her political importance. The material prosperity of the city , however , sufTered little at first from this political decline. In the year of the Battle of Charonea the fru- gal administration of Lycurgus, a patriotic orator and patron of art, com- menced^ and he succeeded in completing the theatre, constructing the Sta- dium, and filling the Piraeus with ships and equipments of war without impairing the finances of the state. As the city of the greatest poets ot antiquity, and as the seat of the schools of philosophy founded by Plato, Aristotle and Zeno, Athens continued to flourish for centuries, owing her prestige mainly to her ancient glory. Reverence for her former greatness alone induced her conquerors to spare the city the full humiliation ot deteat, and even in the time of Hadrian (2nd cent. A. D.) Athens was indebted to this feeling for many handsome buildings and liberal grants. — The Mace- donian regime altered the external aspect of the city but little. In 322 a Macedonian garrison was established on the hill of the Museum , and with its support Hemetrius of Phalerus governed wisely (318 — 307). In 287 the Macedonians were expelled by a revolt, but returned soon afterwards, re- taining possessions of the city until it became a member of the Acha an League. The supremacy of the Macedonians was followed by that of the Romans , which existed de facto^ notwithstanding their declaration (196) of the freedom of the whole of Greece, and de jure after the destruction of Corinth (146). After an insurrection of slaves (133) had proved most dis- astrous for Attica, Athens espoused the cause of Mithridates, and was there- fore besieged by Sulla and severely chastised ( 86 ). The Piraeus \yas de- stroyed on that occasion , never again to be restored to its ancient import- ance. ^Notwithstanding the favour shown by Athens to the cause ot Pompey , and afterwards to that of Brutus , Caesar and Augustus were well disposed towards the city, and were imitated in this respect by the sub- sequent emperors of Rome. Her greatest patron was Hadrian (A. D. 117— 138), who completed the Olympieum begun by the Pisistratides, founded the Hadrianopolis , a new quarter on the E. side of the city, and provided it with aqueducts. At the same period Herodes Atticus , a wealthy Athenian citizen, erected the Odeum, which derives its name from him, and provided the Stadium with marble seats. Thus down to this late era the external splendour of Athens continued to increase 5 but a period of stagnation suc- ceeded , and the gradual decline of the city soon commenced. Christianity was not established here till the end of the 4th cent, after Christ , not- withstanding the preaching of St. Paul and the ‘Christian edicts’ of Con- stantine (312), Theodosius (396) and other emperors^ and the heathen tem- ples were not finally converted into churches till the 6 th cent., at the close of which the schools of philosophy and the gymnasia , the last strongholds of heathenism , were closed by Justinian. — The repose of Athens was again rudely disturbed by the barbarian hordes who invaded Greece (A. D. 253), and the city refortified, and in 267 it was captured by a band of He- ruli, Goths and other northmen. Resistance to these invaders was the last effort of the Athenian arms. A dark and disastrous age succeeded. In the 4th cent, the city was twice besieged by Alaric and the Ostrogoths, the coasts were plundered by Vandals , and the feeble arm of the Byzantine emperors was unable to protect Greece against the incursions of the Bul- garians , the Sclavonians and Saracens , the first of whom established them- selves in every part of Greece. In 540 Athens is said to have been surround- ed by a new wall , and in 660 the Emp. Constans II. resided here , but for many centuries after that period the once glorious capital of Greece is con- signed by history to complete oblivion. About the beginning of the 13th cent. Greece was nearly in the same condition as at the present day^ the modern Greek language had been developed, and the combination of Greek, Sclavonic and Albanian elements completed. — After the conquest of Constantinople by the Latins (1204), Boniface of Monferrat, as King of Thessalonia , obtained the supremacy of the whole of Greece, and invested Otho de Laroche, first as Megascyr History. ATHENS. 39. Route. 335 (‘lord’), then as Duke, with Athens and Boeotia as feudal fiefs. At the close of the loth cent. Walter de Brienne obtained jjossession of the Duchy, and with the aid of Catalonian knights extended his dominions , but was after- wards deposed by them. In 1312 these knights proclaimed their leader Roger Deslau , Duke of Athens , after whose death they ceded the Duchy to the Arragonese King Frederick of Sicily. In the 14th cent. Athens was governed by the officers of the latter , until the Catalonian party was de- feated by Rainer Acciajuoli , lord of Argos and Corinth , who then became Duke (1394). Half a century later , Athens was conquered by the Turks under Omar, after an obstinate resistance (1456). The lethargic condition of the city was next disturbed by the Venetians, who took it in 1464: and Athens was again conquered by them in 1687, under the Doge Morosini. On the latter occasion the gunpowder in the Parthenon was ignited by a bomb, and that sumptuous structure, which had till then survived the surrounding desolation , was reduced to a heap of ruins. The Propyltea had already been destroyed by an explosion at an earlier period. During the dark ages the history of Athens had been shrouded in such profound obscurity , that the first investigators who repaired to it might almost be said to have re- discovered the city. The earliest researches were made by Cyriacus of Ancona , a collector of inscriptions (1437) , by Prof. Kraus of Tubingen (1573) , who carried on an erudite correspondence with Greek savants , and by French Jesuits (1645). In 1670 the first drawings of the monuments were executed, and Athens was soon afterwards visited by the scholars Spon and Wheeler. Since that period scientific research has been very greatly extended. In 1770 the first rebellion against the Turkish yoke took place; and although it was quelled at the time, peace ^was never again thoroughly re- established. The struggle was heroically carried on for many years by the Suliotes of Epirus, and a conspiracy (the ^icuQia) to shake off the hated thraldom gradually spread over the whole of Greece. On Feb. 1st, 1821 the insurrection unexpectedly broke out in Wallachia, and on Apr. 4th in the Peloponnesi^. On Apr. 9th a provisional government began to hold its sessions at Calamata in Messenia. The islands of Spezzae, Hydra and Psara declared their independence ; Athens was taken , and the Turkish garrison besieged in the Acropolis , and throughout the whole country the cause of the iiisurpnts prospered. In 1822 less progress was made, but Acro-Corinth and the Acropolis of Athens (June 22nd) fell into the hands of. the Greeks. Disunion in the camp of the revolution and the military superiority of Ibrahim Pasha threatened the cause of liberty with utter destruction , and on Aug. 2bth , 1826 , the Acropolis was recaptured by the Turks. The great European powers, however, interfered at this juncture (1827), and the naval Battle of Kavarino was fought (Oct. 20th). At the close of the year Capodis- trias was appointed president, and on Feb. 3rd, 1830, Greece in its present extent was declared an independent state bv the protocol of London After the murder of Capodistrias (1831) a civil war broke out, but was terminated oy the arrival of the young King Otiio of Bavaria (Jan. 30th, 1833). In 1835 the seat of government was transferred from Nauplia to Athens, and Otho I began his career as an independent sovereign. On Sept. 15th, 1843, a mili- tary revolution broke out , in consequence of which all the Germans were banished and a liberal constitution proclaimed. After numerous disturbances a new insurrection broke out on Oct. 22nd, 1862; the King, then on a journey through the Peloponnesus, did not return to Athens, and on Oct. country for ever. The present King George, second son of the King of Denmark, landed at the Piraeus on Oct. 30th, 1863, and on his accession the Ionian Islands were added to the dominions of Greece Since that period Athens has prospered , and it is hoped that a happier future is now in store for her. The Place du Palais, where the principal hotels are situated, is taken as the starting-point in the following description of the city. The chief attractions may he seen in the course of two 336 :J9. ATHKNS. Olyrnpieum. excursions , the first of which may conveniently be accomplished by carriage. The palace square, situated at the end of the Hermes Street, with an octagonal pavilion in the centre, and a quadrangular garden on the E. side , is bounded by the Palace (t« avdyiTOQCi)^ erected in 1834 — 38 from designs by Gaertner, and the private property of the ex -king Otho (d. 1867); the stipulated purchase-money has not yet been paid (garden , see p. 355). Turning to the r., the traveller passes the Church of St. Nicomedes , founded in the 8th cent, by Irene , Empress of Byzantium, now employed as a Russian church (beneath it an in- teresting crypt, once a Roman bath). Farther on, to the r., is the English Church, beyond which the great square of the ^Olyrnpieum (Olv/u7Tteio7>) , or Temple of Zeus Olympius , is reached. At the extremity of the square, on an artificially re- stored plain, rise 16 columns of the imposing structure. About the year B. C. 530 Pisistratus began to erect a sumptuous temple on a spot dedicated to religious rites from the earliest ages. The plan was entirely abandoned till the year B. C. 174 , when it was revived by King Antiochus III. of Syria , and the grand designs of his architect Cossutius were the marvel of the age. ‘■Templum unum in terris inchoatum pro magnitudine dei\ says Livy of this structure. Antiochus died without com- pleting it, and in 68 Sulla caused some of its columns to be conveyed to Rome. Augustus caused the work to be again resumed, and it was at length completed by Hadrian (A. D. 135). The statue of the emperor stood beside that of Zeus, a figure elaborately wrought in gold and ivory, and the pre- cincts of the temple are said to have been surrounded by a forest of statues of the vain-glorious monarch. On the W. and E. side of the temple respec- tively there were 10 columns , on the N. and S. sides 21 , the colonnades at the ends being triple , those at the sides double. When in a perfect state, therefore, the temple was enclosed by 120 Corinthian columns in all, each 66' in height and 7' in diameter , exclusive of the 6 columns between the ‘antee’ and the ‘cella’. The entire structure was 375' long and 185' wide, and next to that of Ephesus is the largest Greek temple extant. Of the 16 columns still extant, most of them with the archi- trave, 13 belong to the S.E. angle, and 3 to the inner row of the S. side. The central column of the latter was overthrown by a gale in Oct. 1852. The capitals, of the already degenerating Corinthian order, consist of two pieces, and are 10^ in breadth at the top. On the architrave of two of the columns a Orvkirrjg, or ‘hermit of the columns’, constructed his aerial cell in the middle ages. The visitor may indulge in a cup of coffee beneath the co- lumns, and enjoy a superb view of the 8inus Saronicus, JEgina and the coast of Argolis. ! The ’^Gate of Hadrian, still well preserved, forms the entrance | from the W. to the precincts of the temple and the Hadrianopolis, : or quarter of the city founded by Hadrian. The gateway is 22' ! in width; on each side two Corinthian columns project; on the W. | side their bases, and on the E. their architrave is still visible. i Above the gateway rises a second storey. In the centre there was originally a double niche, with half-columns, surmounted by a : Monum. of Lysicrates. ATHENS. 39. Route. 337 pediment. Ihe upper storey is borne by an architrave supported by Corinthian columns , 60 ft. in height. An inscription on the E. side of the architrave is to the effect that, “This is the city ^f Hadrian, not that of Theseus^’; that on the W. side, “This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus ^ The oblique position of the archway is explained by the fact that the road out of the -city led in this direction. A few paces towards the S., down the steep slope of the precincts of the temple (on the 1. are the vast substructures of the terrace), bring the visitor to the celebrated spring Callirrhoe (the ‘beautifully flowing’), also termed Ennea- krunos (the ‘nine-piped’), from the conduits constructed by Pisi- stratus. A mass of rock here lies across the bed of the Ilissus, which is generally dry, and a streamlet trickling at its base feeds a small pond where the washerwomen of Athens are frequently found pursuing their prosaic avocations. Proceeding towards the E. from the Olympieum, and passing a small island in the Ilissus, formerly the site of a shrine of He- jneter, now occupied by a shady coffee-garden, the traveller crosses the bed of the Ilissus and reaches the Stadium, founded by the ■orator Lycurgus , B. C. 330. Of the seats of Pentelic marble with which it was furnished by Herodes Atticus , A. D. 140, no trace now remains. Two rude fragments of wall, the unaltered form of the stadium, and a cutting in the rock at the S.E. corner for some unknown purpose are the sole remnants of this once imposing structure. An ancient stone bridge across the Ilissus here was taken down in 1769 by the Turks, in order to supply materials for the town-walls. The visitor should now return to the Olympieum, enter the modern Hadrian Street (Oclog' '"A^QiavoiT^ through the Arch of Hadrian and proceed in the direction of the Acropolis. The "OSog ^lovvaov, the first street to the 1., leads (passing the Eleusinion, the rums of an ancient edifice in the wall on the r.) to a waste piece of ground adorned with the graceful choragic ^Monument of Lysicrates, popularly-^ termed the Lantern of Demosthenes. On a square basement, 13' in height, rises a small circular temple in marble, 22' in height, borne by 6 slender Corinthian half- columns. The roof with the beautiful fiower which adorns it, constructed of a single stone, was formerly surmounted by a tri- pod. The frieze represents the metamorphosis of Tyrrhenian pirates , who had attacked Dionysus , into dolphins , a finely con- ceived scene. The inscription on the architrave records that Ly- sicrates carried off the prize with a chorus of boys, B. 0. 335. Ihe victors in the Dionysian competitions received a tripod as a prize, which they afterwards exhibited to the public, and this monument was destined for that purpose. The monument stood Baedeker. Italy III. 2d. Edition. on 338 Route 39. ATHENS. Theatre of Diouysiun. for many years in the court of the French Capuchin monastery, where Byron once took up his quarters in it for the night. The Boulevard may be regained hence by the 'Odo? BvQWVof (opposite the military hospital} ; but the ascent thither by the dirty ‘Odo? Jiovvoov is shorter. At the end of the houses , at the point where the Odeum of Pericles once stood , a pleasing view is obtained of the palace and its garden, Hymettus , Pen- telicon and the Lycabettus 5 the large grotto on the r. appertained to the Eleusinium. Beyond the abrupt S.E. angle of the rock stands the * Theatre of Dionysus, which is reached at the level of the broad passage encircling it (d/«Ca>/./«). Above, on the r., rise two columns , which once bore victorious tripods ; beneath is- a grotto, now dedicated to ‘Our Lady of the Golden Grotto , whence the remains of the choragic monument of Thrasyllus, de- stroyed by a bombardment in 1827, are visible. The rows of seats are only preserved in the lower part of the theatre, which was excavated in 1862; the most interesting is the lowest tier for the priests, constructed of marble, with the seat for the priest of Dionysus in the middle. After having long been content to employ wooden scaffoldings, the Athenians founded a stone theatre- B. C. 500, but it remained unfinished till the time of Lycurgus (p. 337). Frequent alterations were made at subsequent periods, especially by the Emp. Hadrian, and again by the Archon Phse- drus in the 3rd cent, after Christ. The stage with the semi- circular orchestra in front of it was the portion chiefly altered, so that little probably now remains of that on which .^Eschylus, Sophocles and Euripides exhibited their dramas. The theatre i& divided into 13 sections (x8Qxi(^eg) , one for each of the 13 ‘Phylae’ or tribes, and could contain upwards of 30,000 spec- tators. The wall of the stage is adorned with good reliefs and stooping Sileni as supporters. — The theatre lay in the sacred district of Dionysus, to whose temple the foundations in the rear of the stage probably belonged. Here, too, stands the circular *altar of Dionysus, which was formerly in the orchestra. On the W. side of the theatre is situated the Stoa, erected by Eumenes II., king of Pergamum, but subsequently built over by Frank and Turkish walls. Near it is the *Odeum of Herodes Atticus, also termed the Odeum of Regilla, that being the of the wife of Herodes, to whose memory it was erected (B. C. l4Uj. The fa(;ade is constructed in the Roman circular style, and in the E. and W. wings portions of all the three storeys are preserved. A niche by the W. entrance (keys kept by an invalide in the wooden hut) contains a statue of a magistrate. Here, too, only the lower part of the tiers of seats, which were covered with Pentelic marble, is preserved. Adjoining these was a narrow passage, above 1 Areopagus. ATHENS. 39. Route. 339 another tier of seats, over which rose a colonnade. The lower part is divided into five, the upper part into ten sections by means of flights of steps. The theatre was capable of containing 6000 spectators, and was covered by a magnificent roof. The stage, which was approached by five steps from the orchestra, is still well preserved. The apertures in front of it belonged to the apparatus by means of which , according to the ancient system, the curtain was dropped at the beginning of the scene. The Odeum appears to have been burned down at an early period, and afterwards to have served as an outwork of the Acropolis. In 1857 the ruins were excavated. The light-coloured line on the exterior shows the extent to which it was formerly buried. A white marble slab here is to the memory of the ‘philhellenist’ Fabvier, who was commandant during the defence of the Acro- polis in 1827. Following the W. wall of the Odeum the visitor can now reach the Acropolis from this point; but it is preferable to keep .to the carriage-road , and to diverge to the r. by the watchman’s house opposite to the monument of Philopappus on the Museiom. About halt-way up to the 1. of the path , is situated the Areopagus {^u4QStog Ilayog^ ‘Hill of Ares’), a wild mass of rock which still retains its ancient name. The 16 steps are those which the judges of the Areopagus, the highest judicial tribunal at Athens, ascended to their nocturnal sessions. The two spaces on the summit aiforded the sole, and somewhat limited accommodation for judges, prosecutors and defendants. *Fine view hence over the city and the plain. In the profound and gloomy ravine at the base of the abrupt precipice on the N. was situated the shrine of the Erinyes or Eumenides. This was the scene of ^schylus’ tragedy of that name. A few paces higher up the slope is the entrance to the Acro- polis termed the ‘Beule’, after its discoverer, a Frenchman of that name. Down to 1852 it was completely built over by bastions. The gate in its present form, composed of fragments of older structures , is not earlier than the 3rd cent, of our era , but the low towers at the sides are ancient , and this was doubtless an approach to the Propylaea. This entrance is now always closed, and the visitor must proceed farther to the S. and pass through a vaulted passage of modern construction , corresponding however to the old causeway leading to the Acropolis. Visitors knock at the gate, and are then accompanied by the invalide soldier who admits them. The first object of interest is a number of reliefs and statues to the 1., adjacent to the watchmen’s huts. Then on the 1. the large *tomb of Phrasicleia; an archaic statue of Athene in a sitting posture (headless); archaic * relief of a woman 22 * 340 I^oute 39. ATHENS. Arropolh. mounting a chariot. On the opposite side: two * reliefs of dancing women, both in a graceful attitude, but in different styles. A second door leads to the real precincts of the **=*Acrop olis. Passing round the wall which supports the Temple of Nike, the visitor stands before the Propylaeum, the grand entrance to the Acropolis with its numerous temples, aptly termed by an an- cient orator a ‘votive offering to the gods’. The Pelasgians , the traditionary aboriginal inhabitants of Attica, are said to have levelled the upper part of the rock and rendered its sides more precipitous by artificial means, while they protected the only accessible en- trance on the W. side by an outwork with nine gates. The castle then be- came the residence of the kings of Athens; justice was administered at the gates of their palace, and the principal temples were in the vicinity. The courts of iudicature and public offices were afterwards transferred to the lower part of the city, while the castle remained sacred to the gods. The Pisistratides alone of subsequent rulers took up their quarters here. They erected on the site of the Parthenon a temple of Athene, termed Hekatom- pedos or the ‘hundred-footed’ from its vast dimensions, and erected a more magnificent entrance to the Acropolis, both of which were destroyed by the Persians (480 479). The N. wall was first restored by Themistocles, and its hasty construction is indicated by the fragments it contains of columns and beams belonging to the previous edifices. Cimon rebuilt the S. wall A* ^ the Temple of Nike in a more splendid style. Pericles, however, conceived the idea of restoring the temples of the gods, to whom Greece manifestly owed her preservation , and to erect imperishable memorials of the glory of Athens. Accordingly in 448 vast building operations were commenced on the Acropolis under the superintendence of Phidias and a staff of the most talented architects and sculptors. Within the incredibly short space of ten years the Parthenon was completed, and the Propylaea were erected in 487 32. These structures were at the same time a marvel of architectu^l talent and the most exquisite taste, and stood almost uninjured till the 18th cent. The highest point of the plateau (471' above the se^level) was occupied by the Parthenon, i. e. the temple of the virgin (naQd-trOi;) Athene, designed bv the architects Callicrates and Ictinus, and it continued sacred to that goddess down to the 6th cent, of our era. It was then converted into a church dedicated to the virgin i&eoTOy.og), and in 1205 was constituted the Horn. Cath. metropolitan church of Athens by the Franks. In 14o9 the Parthenon became a Turkish mosque; and after the unfortunate explosion caused by the Venetians in 1687 a smaller mosque was erected among the ruins. The Parthenon was discovered in this condition by Lord Elgin, the English ambassador, in 1801, who caused a number of the metopae, a con- siderable portion of the frieze, and the best statues of the two tympana to be carried off. The fragments that now remain are still the greatest orna- ment of the Acropolis. — The Propylaea, erected by the architect Mnesicles in five years (437-32) consisted of a vast arched entrance-gateway, with two unequal wings, a masterpiece of inventive talent and perfect workman- ship, and regarded by the ancients as the gem of the Acropolis , superior even to the Parthenon itself. In the 13th cent, the Franks estabh shed the government offices of the Duchy in the N. wing, and Tower’ over the S. side. The Turkish Pacha afterwards resided here, until the central part of the structure was blown up 1656 wliich concealed the columns were removed in 1834—36. — The Erechtheum the third important ruin of the Acropolis , comprised within ample pre- cincts the most ancient and venerable shrines of Athens. Here Pallas Atbe the tutelary goddess of Athens, and her first priestess Pandrosus, were re- Temple of Nike. athp:ns. 39. Route. 341 vered ; here were the tombs of the mythical kings Erechtheus and Cecrops; here the sacred olive-tree planted by Athene , and the salt-spring caused to tlow by Poseidon, during the contest of these two deities for the possession of the country. The structure was partially restored after its destruction by the Persians. A more complete restoration was undertaken about the be- ginning of the Peloponnesian war (431), but not completed. The works were resumed in 409, and finally finished in 393. The delicacy of the Ionic columns and the ornamentation is admirably in keeping with the moderate proportions of the edifice. It was converted into a church at the same pe- riod as the Parthenon. From the 13th to the 15th cent, it was the residence of the Franconian dukes , and subsequently occupied by the harem of the Pacha. Lord Elgin carried off one of the Ionic columns of the E. side and one of the Caryatides, and another was thrown down by a Turkish cannon-ball in 1825, so that the S. colonnade fell, and was notre-erected till 1846. The N. colonnade was also destroyed by the cannonade of 1826, shortly after which a storm overthrew the W. wall. — The excavations on the Acropolis, although frequently interrupted, were carried on from 1834 to 1862. On the r., beyond the second modern gateway, rises the TivQyog , or culminating point of the S. wall erected by Cimon ; on the 1. is the Beule Gate with the towers which flank it, and the broad flight of steps; below the spectator are the deep ruts of the ancient road to the Acropolis, and opposite to him the basement of Hymettian marble, 30' in height, which once bore a Statue of Agrippa. Beyond the latter, beneath a bastion erected by General Odysseus in 1822, is the Clepsydra., or castle- well (lights necessary in exploring it), to which ancient stairs with modern vaulting descend. The hollow on the 1. of the entrance is the Grotto of Apollo Hypacraeos (i. e. ‘under the hill’), where, according to tradition, Creusa, the daughter of Erechtheus, was surprised by Apollo , and afterwards became the mother of Ion, the ancestor of the lonians. — The visitor should now return to the Propylica. The flight of steps which ascended hence was di- vided half-way by a landing, a portion of which with its gutters still occupies its original position , and was the route taken by the great Panathenaean processions to the summit of the Acro- polis. The traces of the ancient steps on the r. side indicate that it lay somewhat higher than the modern. To the r. of the S. wing of the Propylaea stands the elegant Ionic ** Temple of Athene Nyke or Nyke Apteros (i. e. ‘of un- winged Victory', as it was confidently hoped that the goddess would never forsake the Athenians). — The edifice was reconstructed by German architects in 1835 — 36 on its original site, the fragments having been recovered from a Turkish bastion into which they had been built. This diminutive temple, 30' high, 20' wide, stands on a basement of 3 steps ; each fa(^ade has 4 Ionic columns, 15' in height, 2' in thickness , but there are none at the sides (the temple is therefore an ^amphiprostylus"'). The mutilated frieze, part of which is now in England , and is superseded by a worthless imitation in terracotta, represents combats between Greeks and 342 ^oute 39. ATHENS. Propylaea. Barbarians, bnt is of more recent date than the Parthenon and the Propylsea. From the small flight of steps to the W. end of the wall a balustrade of marble formerly stood; part of the relief which decorated it is now preserved in the interior of the temple. — The * winged Nike, fastening her sandal, * two victories leading a bull to the sacrifice , and a flying Nike are all admirably exe- cuted. Magnificent view of the sea, Aegina, and the coast of the Peloponnesus as far as Hydra, ^geus is said to have thrown himself headlong from this point in despair, when he perceived the ship of Theseus returning from Crete with black sails, instead of white, as promised. The **Propyl8ea are now entered. The structure consists of three portions: the central gateway, and the two wings on the N. and S. The gateway, 65' in width, consists of two colonnades, situated towards the W. and E. in front of the wall containing the gates themselves (nnoTrvkaia , i. e. what lies in front of the 7Tv)mi , or gates). Above each of these rose pediments on both sides, and each was borne by six Doric columns (33' high, 4 ^/ 4 ' thick), the intercolumniation between which, where the road passes through, is 14' in width, whilst the other columns are about 8' apart. The depth of the W. portico, rising boldly on a basement of four steps on the slope of the hill , is 48', and it was supported by two rows of slender Ionic columns , three in each (37' high, 3 ^ 4 ^ thick; fragments of the capitals lie in the colonnade). The wall with the five gates lies five steps higher, the highest of which consists of bluish Eleusinian marble. The quadrangular apertures were formerly surrounded with rich deco- rations (‘antepagmenta’) and closed by bronze gates. — The six columns of the E. colonnade are another step higher, and 25' dis- tant from the wall with the gates. The huge stone beams which spanned this wide space , as well as those which extended from the N. and S. walls of the W. portico to the Ionic columns (some of them are seen reconstructed of the fragments in the colonnade), are among the largest hewn stones in existence , and were uni- versally admired by the ancients. Even this approach to the Acropolis was profusely adorned with statues and reliefs, to which the three draped Graces , executed by Socrates , and the Hermes Propylaeus belong. The striding limbs of a statue on the S. side of the Propylsea are supposed to be a fragment of the latter. Architectural members, inscriptions and fragments of statues now lie here in confusion. The two wings of the Propylsea project 28' tow'ards the W. In front of the N. wing (on thel. as the visitor ascends) is a por- tico 13' in depth, supported by three columns between the ‘antse (i. e. the columns immured in the bounding walls). Beyond this is a quadrangular space 38' in depth, lighted by windows above, Propylaea. ATHENS. 39. Route. 343 .and termed the Pinacothec , from having been used as a gallery for pictures by celebrated masters. The structure as far as the frieze with its triglyphs, as well as its substructure, is admirably preserved; but the roof was destroyed in the middle ages when a storey was added. Among the numerous relics preserved here the most interesting are the small reliefs which once adorned in- scriptions recording the rendering of the accounts of public offi- cials , and which show us the form of the celebrated statue of Athene in the Parthenon , executed in gold and ivory by Phi- dias. — The S. wing consisted of a colonnade 18' in depth only, where a sentinel was usually posted. It is now built over by the ‘Tower of the Franks’, in the wall of which, in the interior, two of the columns are still visible. To the W. of the tower the anta is still preserved , and on the marble slabs are traces of a buttress , a corner-column, and an iron railing between them. — The marble slabs lying obliquely and projecting from the colon- nade, and the remains of a building to the S., as well as a but- tress on the S. wall of the central structure, belonged to the gateway of the Pisistratides. The wall of polygonal blocks here is a remnant of the ancient Pelasgic fortress. Passing through the Propylsea, the stranger ascends the gradual slope of the Acropolis, now a vast field of ruins, presenting a pro- foundly impressive scene. Here the spectator should endeavour to picture to his mind the imposing, Parthenon, rising above all (on the r.), the charming Erechtheum (on the 1.) with its rich sculp- ture and brilliant colouring, and the numerous smaller shrines; then the profusion of votive offerings and the forest of statues and groups which here greeted the eye when the bronze gates of the Propylsea were opened to admit the Panathensean procession. He will then be enabled to appreciate the just pride of Aristo- phanes, when he exclaims: ^Oh thou., our Athens., violet-wreathed, brilliant, most enviable city T The numerous square depressions in the rock, of various sizes, all mark the spots where votive offerings were placed , whilst the pedestals scattered about on every side , were once adorned with statues. Thus, adjoining the S. column of the E. colonnade, is the basement of a statue of Athene Hygeia (Athene as the goddess of health), executed by the sculptor Pyrrhus, and erected by Pe- ricles to commemorate the marvellous fact that the goddess had appeared to him in a dream, and prescribed a remedy for a fa- vourite slave who had been injured during the building of the Pro- pylsea. The two large pedestals near perhaps belonged to the boy with the censer, by Myron, a contemporary of Phidias, and to the Perseus with the head of the Medusa, by Lycius. The perpen- dicular wall of rock on the r., near which numerous votive offer- ings were placed, once bore the wall enclosing the sacred precincts 344 Route 39. ATHENS. Purihenon. of Artemis Brauronia (thus named after Brauron in Attica, the principal seat of her worship). The latter was approached at the E. extremity by several low steps, flanked with votive offerings, and the temple itself lay in the S.E. portion of the enclosure. By the castle-wall , beyond the foundations of this temple , lie frag- ments of the fretted and painted ceiling of the Propyla‘a, together with numerous other relics. The most celebrated representation here was that of the mythical Trojan horse in bronze, by Stron- gylion, a contemporary of Phidias, the basement of which is among the ruins on the W. of the enclosure. A vertical cutting in the rock separates this sacred region from that of Athene Ergane (i. e. Athene as patroness of all kinds of work) to the E. A long base- ment in the latter once bore the statues of a whole family, exe- cuted by the celebrated Sthennis and Leochares. The statues were subsequently erroneously designated by inscriptions as those of Trajan , Germanicus and Drusus. The steps in the rock in front of the Parthenon were employed solely for the erection of votive offerings. The levelled surface on the S.E. side of this terrace was the site of the temple of the goddess. A large basement on the opposite side, of which a few blocks are still extant, bore the colossal statue of Athene Promachus (‘fore- most fighter’), a work of Phidias. It was 66' in height, in full armour , and leaning on a lance , the gilded extremity of which formed a landmark to mariners as they approached Athens from Cape Sunion. Between this point and the temple the road ascend- ing from the Propylaea passed, its direction being indicated by traces of ruts and gutters in the rock ; it then skirted the N. side of the Parthenon, in order to approach it from the E. side. The ** Parthenon (o HaQ^'Si ojv) was intended to form the crowning feature of the Acropolis, and to have this effect also when viewed from below. It is therefore situated at the N.E. angle, on the culminating point of the rocky plateau. On the- summit of the rock a surface 275' long and 125' wide, on which the ‘stylobates’, a basement of marble, 6' in height, rose in 3 steps, was formed by a vast substructure (‘sterobates’) of porous stone, 20' in height on the S. side. The bases of the columns of the Parthenon were therefore nearly on a level with the sum- mit of the Propylaea. Curiously enough, these steps are slightly convex, and not perfectly horizontal. The upper surface, 250'’ long and 111 ' wide, supported 8 columns at each extremity and 17 at each side (the corner-columns being counted twice), in all 46 columns, 37' high, 6 ^/ 2 ' in diameter. On these columns rests the architrave, and above it the triglyphs , one of which is over each column, and one over each intercoliimnium. Between these were the metopes, or intertignia, each of 41/2 sq. ft., 14 in number at each extremity, 32 on each side, in all 92. Each metope Parthenon. ATHENS. 39. Route, 345 was adorned with a representation in high relief, hut these works of art have been almost entirely destroyed, partly by exposure to the elements, and partly by relic-hunters. Those of the E. and W. sides, 11 on the N. and 1 on the S., still occupy their ori- ginal places; 16 from the S. side are now in London, 1 in Paris^ and 1 is shown in the Parthenon itself. The metopes of the e! side represent exploits of Hercules and Theseus, those which re- main on the N. are sacrificial scenes, all in a somewhat austere style. The combats of the Lapith® and Centaurs on the W. and S. are more animated. The pediments rising over the E. and W. extremities, contained representations with nu- merous figures over life-size, and perfectly detached (18 statues m the W. tympanum alone). Those still extant (most of them in the British Museum) are the finest specimens we possess of ancient art. On the E. side the miraculous birth of Athene from the head of Zeus was represented. The sole remnants still here are two heads in the angles, of the horses which drew the rising^ chariot of the sun (Helius), and a head of one of the horses attached to the descending chariot of the moon (Selene). The W . tympanum contained the Contest of Athene with Poseidon for the possession of Attica; the group of Hercules and Hebe is still in its original position. (Persons not liable to giddiness may as- cend the staircase of the minaret and reach the statues in the tympanum.) Within the peristyle, between the projecting ‘antae^ of the cella, and two steps higher, stands on each side a series of 6 Doric columns (6' thick), forming on the E. side the Pro- naos or facade, as in all the temples of the Olympian gods, and on the W. side the Posticum. The external wall of the cella and these two^ porticos was crowned with a frieze in basrelief ( 31 / 2 ' liigh, 575' long), representing the preparation and arrange- ment of the great quadriennial Panathenaean procession. A small portion is still in its original position on the S. side of the posticum, and the entire W. side is preserved (17 fragments are now exhibited in the Parthenon itself, and 275 ' of it are in London). In order to realise the original magnificence of this sculptured decoration, the spectator should bear in mind that it was once brilliantly coloured and gilded , and that the structure consisted of the beautiful Pentelic marble. — The Cella (^Zrjxog} divided into two unequal portions. In the E. portion, 108' long, 69' broad, the Parthenon properly so called, 01 Heca- tompedosj stood the gold and ivory statue of Athene ParthenoSy 4-4 in height, the most admired work of Phidias. The nude por- tions were of ivory, the rest of the statue and the removable mantle of gold, valued at 44 talents (a talent worth about 275 i.) The goddess was represented standing, holding a spear in her right hand, and on her extended left a Victory 6 V 2 ' in height; by her 346 39 . ATHENS. Krechtheum. 1. side rested her shield, on which a snake was entwined, and on her head was a helmet adorned with sphynxes and griffins. On the basement the birth of Pandora was represented , at the sides the combat of the Lapitha? and Centaurs, in the inner circle of the shield the contest of the gods and the giants, and on the outer that of the Athenians with the Amazons. At the sides were two rows of Doric columns (8^/4' thick), 9 in each, termed VTTiQMcc., slight traces of which are still observable. 1 he statue stood on a floor of massive blocks of stone. It has recently been questioned whether this sacred space was hypadhral (i. e. exposed to the open air) or not. In the W. part of the cella, the Opis- thodomos (‘posterior part of the temple’), which was connected with the Hecatompedos by two small doors and supported by 4 Ionic columns, the treasury of the state was deposited. — When the Parthenon was converted into a Christian place of worship, the entrance was transferred to the AV., and a door made in the wall between the Opisthodomos and the Hecatompedos ; the columns of the interior were differently arranged, and an apse built out into the Pronaos. (Traces of Christian paintings on the W. wall.) The minaret in the posticum was afterwards added by the Turks. The building, however, had survived without material alteration until the catastrophe of 1687 converted it into a desolate ruin. Three columns on the N. side have been badly restored. To the 1. among the ruins in the interior is a small -'Museum. Portions of the frieze of the cella : -equestrians , men leading bulls to the sacrifice, 3 men carrying pitchers , figures of gods who were believed to be present on solemn occasions. A -3Ietope. Fragments from the W. tympanum, par- ticularly a stooping -statue supposed to represent Ares. On the :N. and S. side of the Parthenon the ruins lie in picturesque confusion. On the steps on the N. side several fragments; ’"graceful dancing girl, a Pyrrhic dancer etc. — Superb prospect towards the S. To the N. of the Parthenon is situated the **Erechtheum, the external form of which is still distinctly traceable, but the internal arrangements have been completely concealed by sub- sequent alterations. Three vestibules (TiQoaraaeig) led to the interior, which is 69' long and 36' wide. The variety exhibited in its architecture is a great charm of this temple. The E. colonnade, an ordinary pronaos of six Ionic columns (23' high, 21/2' ill diameter), one of which is preserved in the British Mu- seum, formed the entrance to the Temple of Athene Polias (i. e. ‘protectress of the city’), containing a sitting figure of the goddess with the eternal lamp. The N. prostasis has 4 Ionic columns in front, and lies 9' deeper than the E. colonnade, while its columns are 6 " thicker and 3 ' higher. The two peculiar apertures below the prostasis are said to have been caused by the trident of Po- seidon when he caused the salt spring to flow^ by striking the | ro(;k. I’he well-preserved *door here led to a passage to the other t(’r’^i])les (see above), lighted by three windows introduced ! Erechtheum. ATHENS. 39, Route. 347 between the Ionic half-columns in the W. wall. The small door farther W. in the same colonnade led to the sacred precincts of the goddess, which extended towards the N.W., as far as the entrance to the so-called ‘Agraulus Grotto’ on the N. wall of the Acropolis. This door anciently constituted a secret entrance to the Acropolis (it is now walled up, the stair to it leaves off sud- denly). The Persians are said to have gained access by this entrance to the ill -defended stronghold. At a subsequent period the priestesses of Athene descended by this door to the shrine of Agraulus below. A flight of 11 steps leads from the E. colonnade to the N. prostasis, on the N. side of the Erechtheum. The S. portico is termed the Hall of the Caryatides (the figures sup- porting the beams were simply termed xoQca, or maidens, by the Athenians). The statues, somewhat exceeding life-size, stand on pedestals 8' in height, and bear on their heads ornaments re- sembling capitals. Cecrops is said to have been interred beneath this ‘hall of the maidens’. The second Caryatide from the W. is an imitation in terracotta, the original being in London. That standing back from the others in the E. series was restored by the talented German sculptor Imhof. A rope has been rudely placed round the broken neck of the second from the E. The external wall of the temple adorned with a frieze, representing figures of white marble on a ground of black, Eleusinian stone. Elegance here amply compensated ' for deficiency in grandeur. — Among the fragments on the S. steps of the edifice is the inter- esting relief of a triere, or trireme (vessel wdth three benches of rowers). — Opposite the N. colonnade is a well-preserved fragment of ancient wall, and at the corner of it an ancient figure in a sitting posture. Beneath the balcony of the small house to the E. of the Erechtheum stands an archaic * Hermes, carrying a calf on his shoulders. The collection of fragments in the house, as well as that in the cistern by the N. w^all, is interesting to the professional only. The visitor should return hence to the Parthenon. In front of the N.E. angle of the temple is a fragment of the architrave of the Ionic or Corinthian circular temple of Roma and Augustus, which the relics still extant indicate to have been 26 ' in diameter. Adjoining it, resting on a square basement, two nude * torsos of boys, and a *head of Athene in the ancient style. — To the r. /some fragments of columns have been discovered, some of which must have belonged to the structure previous to that of Pericles, as the calcined surfaces point to its destruction by fire at the instance of the Persians, whilst others were intended to be em- ployed in the new structure, but were rejected as faulty. — A i museum in course of construction in the vicinity will form a de- ppository for all the smaller objects of interest. At the E. angle I 348 J^oute 39. ATHENS. Metropolis. of the building is a quadrangular * pedestal, with Hepha*stus, Athene, Dionysus and Hermes in relief. — The ancient foundation- walls, which extend hence towards the E., belong to the Arsenal (OTcevo&riy.rj)^ founded by the orator Lycurgus in the 4th cent. B.C. — To the S. of the latter is a portion of the massive Wall of Cimony exposed down to its foundation in the rock. At the E. end of the Acropolis, on the site of a former Turkish tower, Queen Amalia, consort of the ex-king Otho, caused a Belvedere to be erected, whence the best survey is obtained of the modern city and all its monuments. The most distant object are the columns of the Olympieum to the S. E.; nearer, the arch of Hadrian; on the E. slope the monument of Lysicrates. Immediately below the spectator rises the lofty metropolitan church, and ad- joining it the ‘little metropolis’. On the middle of the N. slope rises the ‘Tower of the Winds’, adjacent to which is the bazaar, where the stoa of Hadrian lay. To the extreme W. is the The- seum. Opposite is situated the Lycabettus, beyond it the gable- shaped Brilessos (Pentelicon) ; to the 1. Fames with its buttress the ^galeus, in front of it the valley of the Cephissus. The traveller who has engaged a carriage for these expe- ditions may now proceed to the Pnyx and the Theseum (see below). The second excursion should also be made from the palace square, which should be quitted towards the W. by the Hermes Street which terminates here. Beyond Wilberg’s shop (r.) the Offices of the Minister of Education are reached on the 1., where a * collection of antiquities is preserved. Evstratiadis , the su- perintendent of the antiquities, by whom the collection has been arranged, also issues tickets to admit visitors to the Acropolis. — The cabinet by the door in the first room contains interesting ‘pinaces’, or reliefs in terracotta, which were formerly hung up in the tombs, representing Phrixus with the ram, a *bull led to sacrifice etc. The cabinet on the 1. contains white lecythi, or vases, with funeral representations. — To the r. in the second room is a most accurate, but unfortunately not quite completed **copy of the gold and ivory statue of Athene in the Parthenon. * Relief of Nymphs, dancing to Pan’s music, brought from Sparta. The other objects in the cabinets are chiefly vases, fragments and inscriptions. Farther W. a side-street to the 1. ('OcFo? EvctyyeXio leads to the Metropolitan Church {MriTQOTioXLg)^ a large modern struc- ture. It was erected, under the direction of four different archi- tects, in 1840 — 55, with the materials of 70 small churches and chapels, demolished in pursuance of a decree of 1840. The in- terior is sumptuous, but destitute of taste. The exterior, coloured in imitation of St. Sophia at Constantinople , is an enlarged copy Tower of the Winds. ATHENS. 39. Route. 349 of the * Little Metropolis^ as it is termed, l>ing to the S., also termed the church of the Paragia (Virgin) Gorgopiko, constructed entirely of ancient fragments by Prince Otho de Laroche (d. 1259). Above the principal entrances (W. side) is an ancient Greek ca- lendar of festivals, with Corinthian capitals at the corners (crosses added by Christians). Over the S. door a fine fragment of a Doric architrave, with bulls’ heads and rosettes in the metopes, and crossed torches and vases in front of the triglyphs. Above the apse, at the sides, are ancient * reliefs with sacrificial repre- ^ sentations; in the apse itself (S. side) an archaic relief, immured upside down. On the N. side a mutilated representation of a palaestrite, and a * tomb - relief . All the architectural mouldings and decorations are also taken from ancient structures. The flat, uncouth representation of animals is of Byzantine workmanship. — The ruins of the church of St. Andrew (to the S., in the ^Odog ^^iloO^mg') also rest on ancient foundations of marble. A , Serapeum was probably situated here in ancient times. Returning hence to the Hermes Street, the visitor reaches the Kapnikaraea church, a complicated Byzantine structure. Passing round this church he next proceeds to the point of intersection of the Hermes and ^olus streets, and ascends the latter towards the Acropolis. On the r. a square with a modern fountain ; then (r.) the huge substructures of the E. side of the Gymnasium of Hadrian (p. 350). The Bazaar is^ situated here and towards the N., and the curious oriental scene is best inspected in the narrow street to the r. before the substructures are reached. The sellers and artisans sit with crossed legs in open booths on both sides of the street. The red boots {r^aQov^ri) and ‘fustanelle’ so generally , worn are sold here at moderate prices. At the end of the bazaar ^ stands a mosque {rGia^ai)^ now used as a barrack. The ^olus Street next leads to the * Tower of the Winds {Naog Atokov)., more properly termed the Horlogium of Andronicus Cyrrhestes. About the year B. C. 100 it was erected by An- dronicus of Cyrrhus in Syria in order to comprise a weathercock, a sun-dial, and a water-clock. The building is octagonal, with , tw^o porticos, each supported by two columns, towards N. E. and N.W. respectively, and a species of tower towards the S. The ^ diameter of the whole is 29', each side about 11' long, height 42 '. The 8 sides of the structure are turned towards the different ^ points of the compass, and adorned with badly executed reliefs on the frieze representing the various winds: N. Boreas, N.W. Scirion , W. Zephyrus , S.W. Libs, S. Notos, S. E. Eurus, E. Apeliotes, N.E. Caicias. The building was once surmounted by a Triton , who . pointed with his staff to the quarter whence the wind blew. On the sides, under the reliefs, traces of the sun-dial are seen. The circular structure on the S. side contained a cistern. 350 39. ATHENS. Stoa of Hadr'Kin. supplied from the Clepsydra spring on tlie Arropolis by an aqueduct, of which several arches are still standing. The water-clock, of whicli traces are observable on the ground, was fed from this cistern. — In the tower itself and the vicinity numerous antiquities are preserved. The custodian lives in the house with the dome by the fountain to the r. ; this building, formerly a Turkish bath, contains casts of the sculptures from the Parthenon in the British Museum, and of the frieze of the temple of Apollo at Bassic. — In the Tower of the Winds, r. of the N.E. portico, is a tablet for keeping accounts; tombstone of Sosiphanes ; * torso of an Amazon. In the 3rd frame a pointed gravestone, in which a sitting woman, with work-basket {y.ccXaOog) 1 ehind her, is recognisable. On a tombstone an athlete, going to the palicstra with his strigil, or 'scraper’, and phial of oil. — Outside, leaning against the N.W. portico, a tombstone representing children taking leave of their mother. This building stood in a space enclosed by columns , one of which with a portion of the architrave is preserved in the bar- rack-yard (a building with a dome). Adjoining this on the W. was another oblong space, terminating with the so-called Market Gate {^IlvXr] Trig ayoQag). Four Doric columns, 4^2^ diameter, 29 ' in height, still support the architrave, triglyphs and a pedi- ment, The width of the central space indicates that the struc- ture was intended for a gateway. The corner- columns are ad- joined by antar. The inscription on the architrave records that the gate was dedicated to Athene at the expense of Jul. Caesar and Augustus. It was once surmounted by a statue of L. Caesar (d. A. D. 2), grandson of Augustus. — This was the oil-market, as a long inscription in the rear of the gate regulating the sale of oil testifies (dating from the time of Hadrian). About 250 paces farther W. are the sole relics still extant of the celebrated market-place of Athens, with its magnificent halls, temples and statues. They belong to the Stoa erected by Attains, king of Pergamus (about B. C. 175) at the N.E. end of the market, a structure 400' in length, with 21 doors, in front of which a long double row of columns rose. The ruins, however, are hardly now recognisable. — The market-place (^ ayoQa rj iv KfQKfrsixro) during the golden age of Athens extended towards the W., as far as the base of the hill of the Theseum, and towards the S. as far as the Areopagus, where the dirtiest quarter of the town is i now situated. ^ The traveller may now return hence towards the Market Gate, I and before reaching it enter the street to the 1. ( Odog ^()fw?); j turning to the r. at its extremity, he reaches the *Stoa of Hadrian, i or rather the Gymnasium of Hadrian. This was one of the magni- I llcent structures with which Hadrian (114 — 37) embellished the | Theseum. ATHENS. 39. Route. 351 city. The foundations of the E. wall are preserved in the ^olus Street. The anterior wall was parallel with the narrow bazaar- street; the fragment preserved is the N. half of the W. wall. The whole comprised a space 406' in length, 267' in width, containing colonnades a library, a temple of Zeus, another of Hera, and a shrine of all the gods {lldv^iov'). Seven well- preserved monolithic columns of Carystus marble (‘cipollino’), 8^4' thick, 31' in height, with rich Corinthian capitals, adorn the marble wall. The fluted column, projecting 24' towards the W. ' from one of the antae, belonged to a portico {^UqotivIchov) of 4 columns, which led to the principal gate. Another similar wall with 7 columns adjoined this portico on the S. A small museum of sculptures and inscriptions has been estab- lished in the space in front of the columns (custodian to be found in the wooden hut). In the centre, from 1. to r. : tombstone of Mnesistrate , taking leave of her husband. '•Female statue. "Pedestal of a tripod; in front Dionysus, ' presiding in person at the thank-offering of the victorious choregi , at the sides winged genii with sacrificial vases. Tomb-relief, a father taking leave of his son. Several tombstones of priestesses of Isis, recognisable by the - knot of the robe on the breast, and the sistrum. Tasteful * frieze from Lamia , representing sea-monsters. On the wall a mutilated relief of a bull. R. of the door: Hercules strangling the Xemean lion. — On the wall above* - Byzantine paintings from a Christian chapel which formerly stood here. To the 1. of the columns is a Turkish mosque (see below). In the middle of the Bazaar rises the Clock Tower, presented ■ to the Athenians by Lord Elgin as a compensation for the sculp- : tures removed by him from the Parthenon. At its base, behind ' the booths, are three columns and an anta of one of the above- mentioned temples. Passing the mosque and proceeding towards the N., the tra- veller regains the Hermes Street. — Then to the 1. in this street as far as the last side-street (‘OJo? on the 1. In a waste piece of ground closed by a gate , on the 1. side of the narrow street which terminates opposite the Church of St. Philip, stand two singular statues, termed Atlantes, Giants, or snake- < footed monsters. Nothing is known of them except that they ^ were evidently once employed as supporters. Hence back to the church, and then to the 1. towards the ' railway -station. In a conspicuous position above the latter stands the ** Theseum (SriaeTov), the best -preserved edifice of ancient , Athens. If it be correctly designated a temple of Theseus, it is probably that which was erected by Cimon, B. C. 470, to the |‘ memory of Theseus, who is said to have appeared at the Battle of Marathon (490) and to have aided his countrymen in gaining j the victory. (The style of the edifice indicates that it is con- siderably older than the Parthenon.) This hero, the conqueror 352 I^oute 39. ATHENS. Theseum. of robbers and monsters, was succeeded by St. George, the dragon- slayer, to whom the temple was dedicated as a Christian church, A. J). 667. The apse which was then thrown out towards the E. destroyed the pronaos (the place where it was added is easily recognised in the interior) and the two columns between the anta3, and doors were made in the S., W. and N. walls. In 1835 the apse was removed, the space between the anta3 walled up, and the church after having served as a hospital for a time, finally converted into a museum and vaulted over. — The tym- pana once contained statues. On the front (H end) there were 10, on each side 4 metopes, 23// broad, 2^/2' high, beginning at the E. angle, executed in high relief; all the others were painted only. The frieze did not encircle the entire cella, but the front of the pronaos only (towards the E.) extending over the peristyle, and the front of the posticum (towards the W., a broken Rom. sarcophagus here) but without extending over it. — All these sculptures, except those of the tympana, are still in their original places. The metopes of the E. front represent the exploits of Hercules: 1. (beginning from the S.) Hercules slays the Nemean lion; 2. With the aid of lolaus he destroys the Lernsean serpent; 4. He conquers the Erymanthian boar; 5. He carries off the horses of Diomede; 10. Hercules with the apples of the Hespe- rides. — N. side (beginning from the E.), achievements of Theseus: 1. Theseus slays Periphetes; 2. Theseus and Creon; 3. Theseus and Sciron ; 4. Theseus slays the Crommyonian sow. — S. side (beginning from the E.): 1. Theseus fights with the Minotaur; *2. He capr tures the Marathonian bull; 3. Theseus and Oercyon; 4. Theseus and Procrustes (?). — The frieze on the E. side is divided by two groups of gods into three sections : 1. a prisoner being bound, r. a trophy erected; in the centre a wild struggle of men throw- ing stones, with armed warriors. The frieze of the W. side represents in 20 figures the contests of the Lapithsc and Centaurs : Theseus has already overcome his antagonist; on the 1., two Centaurs crush Caeneus to the earth. — The cella (44' long), before which were a pronaos (22^2^ deep) from E. to W., and a posticum (18' deep) consisting of the prolonged walls of the cella and two columns on each side, is surrounded by a simple peristyle with 36 columns (3^2^ thick, 21 ' high), 6 at each end, and 13 on each side. They rise on two marble steps, and are 13' distant from the cella on the E. side, 11' on the W., and 6' on the S. — Many of the marble beams which covered this peristyle are still preserved, and especially on theE. side there are a number of ‘cassettes’ (160 were necessary to cover the E. hall), which were perforated and covered with a slab above. The entire structure is 115' long and 49' wide. This well-preserved ruin, situated in the large open space now used as a drilling Hill of the Nymphs. ATHENS. 89. Route. 353 ground, and mellowed by age, produces a remarkably pleasing impression. This temple contains the finest collection of antiquities at Athens (custodian lives in the wooden hut). A glass cabinet by the door contains the celebrated tombstone of Aristion, executed by Aristocles, in the archaic style, with traces of colouring, found at Marathon, and probably representine a warrior of that battle. Beside it a statue found at Andrus. S. wall: advancing ngure, supposed to be a tyrant-slayer, perhaps Harmodius or Aristogeiton but more probably Meleager. Opposite , a mutilated IsTke. Adjoining it the so-called Eleusinian Belief: Triptolemus or lacchus between Demeter (1.) probably dating from a period little later than Phidias, found at Eleusis in 1859. Figure in Egyptian style. "Archaic Apollo, found in the theatre of Dionysus. Siren. — N. wall : two slabs of a Baccha- nalian frieze - relief. Opposite: -Tombstone of Ameinocleia, a charming hgure, whose sandal a servant is fastening. Ancient Apollo from Thera. Several other very interesting tombstones, representing parting-scenes etc. Several antiquities on the other side of the square also. In front of the custodian’s house: *Nike flying down, over life-size, from Megara; N. large sarcophagus and block of lava from Thera (Santorin), with inscriptions in the earliest Greek alphabet; S. large tombstones , found near the church of Agia Triada at the W. end of the Hermes Street (p. 356), the finest those of Sym- machia and Archippe. Archaic torso (Apollo). Statue of an •emperor. Hence towards the S.; on the 1. rises the Areopagus (p. 339), on the r. the rocks of the Agia Marina^ so named from the small church situated on them. These rocks bear numerous traces of the foundations of houses, staircases, cisterns etc., relics of the most ancient dwellings in Attica. The smooth surface on the S. side has been occasioned by an extraordinary superstition. The wmen of the country whose families Providence has not seen fit do increase slide down the rock in the firm belief that this will oause their wishes to be realised ! Above it rises the Observatory orected by Baron Sina. An inscription on the rock, to the r. in the space in front of the observatory, has given this eminence its name of Hill of the Nymphs. On the route hence towards the S. a remarkably fine view of the Acropolis is obtained; on the r. remains of the city- wall. On the N. slope of a low eminence here is situated one of the earliest structures of Athens. A semicircular terrace, sloping downwards towards the N. (width from N. to S. 250', from E. to W. 396'), is supported by a huge foundation-wall of massive square blocks (Pelasgic style). Thus the block over the quadran- gular opening is 12' long and 6' high. On the S. side the rock is hewn so as to form two perpendicular walls; the E. wall, up- wards of 13' high, contains a number of niches in which votive offerings were once placed. In the angle formed by the walls a huge cube of rock hewn out of the solid mass, rests on three steps, and is approached by a short stair on each side. — This Baedeker. Italy III. 2d. Edition. 23 354 ^^oute 39. ATJIENS. Philopappus. is believed to be the Pnyx, where the Athenians held their poli- tical assemblies, and the cube of stone has accordingly been termed the Orators’ Stage Here it is probable that the citizens listened to the stirring eloquence of a Pericles, a Demosthenes etc. Several blocks at the E. end of the terrace have not been re- moved, but operations for that purpose had evidently been begun. At the W. end is the commencement of a polygonal wall , con- sisting of two huge blocks. S. of the Pnyx is a similar, but unexplained structure. On the N.W. side is a shattered cube of rock (altar) , in front of it a surface bounded on the S. by a cutting in the rock. Fine ^panorama here of the entire plain of the Cephissus and the sea. Farther S., on the r., beyond the small Church of St. De- metrius, is the so-called Tomb of Cimon, afterwards the burial- place of a certain Zosimiarius, as the inscription records. — Then farther on , passing traces of the ancient walls on the ridge of the hill, the traveller reaches the * Monument of Philopappus^ whence the hill derives its name (formerly termed Movohov). The structure was begun about A. D. 110 as a monument for the descendants of Antiochus IV., the last king of Commagene in Asia Minor, forming a flat arch turned towards the N.E. (about 33^ in width), over which rose three niches between four pillars. The 5 layers of stone of the Pirccus are still preserved, above which are two-thirds of a relief: Triumph of Trajan, r. a fettered bar- barian, 1. magistrates. Then a square niche and the central round niche with their pillars (of which the central alone is of the original height). According to the inscription, the statue in the niche on the 1. represented Antiochus , the son of king An- tiochus ; in the centre is Philopappus , the son of Epiphanes , a member of the same family. The entirely preserved column bears an Inscription referring to a younger Antiochus Philopappus. The quadrangular space at the back was the burial-ground. This hill (425') commands a final *view of Athens and the plain. In the centre rises the Acropolis, which is admirably sur- veyed hence; at its base the Odeum of Herodes and the Theatre of Dionysus , farther r. the Gate of Hadrian and the columns of the Olympieum , then the hills of the Stadium and Hymettus. L. of the Acropolis are the Theseum and the Hill of the Nymphs, beyond them the Athenian plain, ^galeus and Parnes. Over the Acropolis peeps the Lycabettus and a part of Pentelicon (Bri- lessus); S. the Sinus Saronicus with its islands and coasts. The traveller should descend directly hence, and turn to the' 1. to the three doorways in the perpendicularly hewn wall of rock. This is termed the Prison of Socrates , consisting of three cham- bers hewn in the solid rock, of which that in the centre was never finished. The chamber on the 1., 12' long, 71 / 2 ' wide, Colonus. ATHENS. 39. Route. 355 has a flat ceiling; on the ground are the marks of a sarcophagus. The chamber on the r., of the same extent as the other, has a pointed ceiling. From the angle a round aperture leads into a rotunda (old Greek QoXog), IIV 2 ' in diameter, with elliptical I vaulting. The opening was closed by two slabs, one of which is extant. The whole locality is very similar to the treasure-house . of Atreus at Mycene , and was probably intended for the same ^ purpose. The return-route hence to the Palace Square is by the Odeum, j Theatre, and Arch of Hadrian. Walks. The Palace Garden in the rear of the palace, en- trance on the 1., open to the public after 4 p. m., was laid out i by Queen Amalia on a waste and barren piece of ground, and it : now affords pleasant , shady walks , a great luxury in treeless Athens. L. of the path, close to the entrance, an extensive , Koman mosaic, belonging to a bath. In the centre of the garden ' there is a small pond, a den with a lioness, and a circular space ! containing ancient relics. The S. part of the garden is beautiful. It contains fine palm-trees , and commands a pleasing prospect towards the Olympieum and the sea, especially from a block of rock at the S.E. corner, near which there is a Roman mosaic. The Patissia Street, the prolongation of the ^olus Street, pre- sents a bustling scene after sunset. The Lycabettus ■ 9S0' high) commands a fine view , extending to the Cithseron in Bosotia and the Geranea in Megaris. In order to reach the Colonos the Place de la Concorde is crossed , and the main street to the W. followed. Then by the first transverse street on the r. (^"Odog 2!ojy.QaTovg^ , keeping to the 1 until the houses cease. A field-path to the 1. then leads to the flat hill distinguished by two conspicuous white tomb- stones. This is the Colonus, the scene of the Oedipus Coloneus of Sophocles. On the W. side lay the Academy. The surround- ing district is described by Sophocles in his celebrated strophes : Stranger, admire the most beautiful fields Beneath Attica’s heaven : Colonus’ Bright and cheerful district, where Nightingales in silvery tones, Nestling numerously in the green hedge’s Sylvan shade, sigh and lament ! Ivy of dark green rustles around it here. And the sacred foliage of the Thyrsus, Teeming with fruits in shady coolness. Nourished by gentle breezes, Untouched by storms! A delighted one ever revels Here, surrounded by the Nymphs who suckled him. Celebrating the festive dance in the chorus, Lyseus etc. The rich vegetation has now almost entirely disappeared , but 1 the view of Athens will amply reward the visitor. 23 * 356 DAPIINI. Kxc.arsiom The Botanical Garden (porartxbg xr/TTog) lies on the ‘holy- road’ to Eleusis (see below). At the W. extremity of the Hermes Street , at the point where a conduit issues from beneath the church of A^ia Triada^ the street to the r., towards wliicli this water flows, must be followed. The first large garden on the 1., with fine lofty poplars is the botanical garden. L. of the Agia Triada (to the S.) portions of the principal burial-ground of Athens, near the Dipylon ^ the principal gate of the city, have been tolerably well preserved. They are termed collectively the * Burial Ground of Agia Triada. Numerous mo- numents still stand on the walls, partly regular, partly polygonal, which enclosed the family burial-places. Beginning from the 1. corner: first the * Monument of Dexileos^ son of Lysanias, erected B. C. 393; the rider represented in the acting of overthrowing a warrior is Dexileos, who, as the inscription says, distinguished himself with four other knights in the Corinthian war. — Farther on, to the r., a stone with the usual parting scenes; then the elegant * Tombstone of Lysanias, which was found standing upright here in 1863, and led to the excavations. *Bull, unfortunately mutilated; beyond it a * statue of a stooping slave, farther E. a corresponding figure. — Well-preserved wall of a family burial- ground, at the corners of which animals were placed. At the end, on the r., a gravestone (of late workmanship), on which the deceased is represented as sitting in Charon’s boat. The bu- rial-ground evidently extended considerably farther to the r. and 1. Excursions. A few only are mentioned which may be accomplished in half-a-day. That to Marathon has been omitted, as it requires two days, and presents little to interest the traveller beyond the historical associations. — The three first mentioned may be accomplished by carriage (20—25 dr.), in which case no guide is necessary; saddle-horse (bad) 8—10 dr.; both should be ordered at the hotel on the previous day. Enquiry should be made as to the safety of the route , and provisions must be taken for the journey. To Eleusis, now Lepsina, a very interesting excursion. The traveller passes the Agia Triada (see above) and follows the '■Sacred Road' {lEQa o^oV), on which the great annual procession of the Eleusinian mysteries was an- i ciently held. It was bounded on both sides by tombstones , traces of i which are occasionally observed to within a short distance of Eleusis. On ! the 1, is the Botanical Garden (see above) , beyond which the ^Olive Grove' is soon entered. The oldest of its trees are said to have witnessed the ■culminating point of the prosperity of Athens. Demos Lacciadae , the birthplace of Miltiades , once celebrated for the excellence of its radishes, was situated here. On the first arm of the insignificant Cephissus, the first fig-tree in Attica, that presented by Demeter to Phytalus, is said to have been planted. Beyond the plantation the road gradually ascends to the Pass of Baphni , which traverses the mountain-range of EEgaleus (or Poikilon). The round hill before it is termed Agios Elias from the chapel on its summit. To the I. lay the Demos Hermos; on the r., a little farther, is the village of Qaidari. The traveller now halts at the " Daphni Monas- tery , where the horses are watered. The monastery , founded by the i Dukes de Laroche in the 13th cent., occupies the site of a temple of Apollo ■ (I'ythion); a few Ionic columns are still standing on the W. side, others from Athens. ELEUSIS. 39 Route. 357 were carried off by Lord Elgin. The W, vestibule of the handsome church, now in a dilapidated state (fine mosaic of ‘Christus Pantocrator’ in the dome) contains the bodies of its founders, in rude coffins, marked with the simple sign of the cross. Farther on, a -view is disclosed of the bay of Eleusis i and Salamis (1.). The wall with niches on the r. belonged to the temple of Aphrodite Phile , and the large blocks of stone in front of it to an an- cient fortification of the pass. — Arrived at the sea-shore , the traveller perceives Eleusis a little to the r., on the farther side of the round bay I which witnessed the defeat of the Persians in 480. The mountains bevond are termed XtQara (‘horns’) from their shape ; to the r. of them the Cith^- ron, 1. the Geranea of Megara. The road now follows the shore. The point I vyhere a flat , projecting rock approaches the sea is termed the Kakiskala ( mauvais pas’). The ancient route of the ‘mysti’, or ‘initiated’, leads to the r. along the hill, passing behind the Salt Lakes {(lenoi ). The latter are fed by several salt springs, and are now dammed up in order to drive I some mills. They formerly converted the shore into a sv,^amp , and were within the domains of the Eleusinian priests. Beyond this extends the fer- tile Eleusinian Plain (to Pcigiov nedlov)^ where Demeter herself guided the plough and first taught the art of agriculture. The road traverses the plain for a distance of about 13 M. and reaches Eleusis , once the se- :Cond city of Attica, at a later period even more celebrated than Athens .itself owing to the repute of its venerable shrines , now a poor village. The road to Thebes diverges to the r. Some ancient relics are preserved in the Chapel of St. Zacharias , once the temple of Triptolemus , outside the village. In the village, on the r. of the road, are the considerable rums of the *Fropylaea , an imitation of the central part of the Propylsea at Athens. Farther on , a second entrance, consisting of an opening, 35' in width, between two parallel walls, 55' in length. In the centre this opening contracts into a gate , 13' in width, adorned with antes, and columns with quaint capitals in front of these. The path then led round the angle of the rock to the plateau where the great ‘Temple of the Mysteries’ ifxvoTty.d^ OTj'/.dg) lay. The sacred precincts embraced an area of 180 sq. ft., the roof of which was borne by 28 columns^ and it was approached by a broad por- tico of 12 Doric columns. The scanty vestiges of this famous structure are now scattered among the cottages of the village. The hut of the custo- dian contains fragments of sculpture and inscriptions. — The original temple was destroyed by the Persians , and the later structure , commenced by Mnesicles and Ictinus under Pericles, was completed by Philon under Demetrius the Phalerian , about the year B. C. 311. The Romans subse- quently added to the edifice , and the second gate is unquestionably to be ascribed to them. The temple was destroyed by the Goths unter Alaric. .A. D. o9b , down to which period the worship of the goddess had been re- gularly celebrated with all its ancient splendour. The mysteries were then dis^ntinued , and the town speedily fell to decay. The old Molo of the harbour is still preserved , and the Franconian tower on the hill above Eleusis marks the site of the ancient Acropolis. Cephissia (AT/rpmu/d), 12 M. distant, a good road ^ by carr. in 2 hrs. The route is to the E., between the Lycabettus on the 1. and the palace- ' garden on the r. On the 1. is the monastery of Asomaton ^ on the site of the ancient gymnasium of Cynosarges 5 beyond it, the village oi AmpeUkipo^ he ancient the birthplace of Aristides and Socrates. Farther on IS the village of Marusi , the ancient Athmonon, with the grove of Artemis Amarjsi^ The finest and most venerable of the olive-trees near Athens lourish here. The next place is Kalavryta , then Cephissia , beautifully utuated on a spur of Pentelicon, well shaded, and commanding a fine pro- ipect of the Attic plain as far as the sea. It was therefore a favourite site or villas in the time of the Romans. Herodes Atticus resided here and ■lere Aulus Gellius wrote his Noctes Atticse. In the principal place, shaded oy a line plane-tree, a Turkish mosque is situated ; adjoining it is a Roman r..omt) containing four handsome sarcophagi. That in the centre is the inest: in front Helen between the Dioscuri^ on one side Eros bending his 358 39. pFrYLi:. Krciirsiom bow, on the other Leda and the swan. Farther up the hill is the principal source of the Cephissus (Cephalari), whence an aqueduct, constructed by the Pisistratids , and still in use, conveyed water to Athens (the air-shafts are seen on the road-side). The adjoining Grotto of the Nimphs has been dam- aged by a landslip. Penteli, about 13 M. distant. The route is the same as the last as far as a cafe (2^\2 M. from the city), where it diverges to the r. to the village of Chaldndri. Stauro.s, the X.* base of Hymettus, is now approached. On the last range of heights are the conspicuous walls of the dilapidated monastery of Agio.s Jannh Kynigos (‘St. John the Hunter’). Beyond Chalandri, on the 1. , a conical hill with a pond on its summit. The route then leads direct to the gorges of thePenteli, ox Pentelicon. In front of the monastery, the wealthiest in Attica, there is a pleasant, green spot, shaded by plane- trees, with a refreshing spring. Fine view. The ancient ‘ Marble Quarries of the Athenians are situated above the monastery, to the domains of which they belong. On the r. the unfinished chateau of the Duchesse de Plaisance. Both these points are most conveniently reached on foot (guide from the monastery). The summit of the mountain (ascent difficult) commands a charming p^^'^spect, embracing Andros, Tinos and Parnes. Towards the E. the plain of Marathon and Euboea, with the pyramidal Delphi (^/(>f/»o,), 6323' in height. To Phyle. The traveller may drive as far as Chastia (11 M.), but the latter part of the road is very bad:, thence a fatiguing climb of li|2 hr. It is better to go on horseback with a guide, not forgetting provisions. Athens is quitted by the Patissia road^ on the r. is the Lycabettus, at its base the hamlet of Gypseli and the so-called Polygonon., w^here a military band plays on Sunday evenings. Before Patissia is reached , the road turns to the 1. towards the Colonus , then to the r., and crosses the Cephissus by a bridge constructed by the Turks (in a ruinous condition , 1869). Then along the X. E. base of the .^Egaleus, through the village of Kamaterd. On the 1. is the model farm of the ex-(^ueen Amalia, to the r. in the distance rises the spire of the Bavarian colony of Hercicli. In the plain lay Acharnae the largest ‘demos’ of Attica , which was capable of furnishing a contingent of 3000 ‘hoplites’. To the 1. on the hill Menidi (the ancient Pseonidee) and Liossia. The ravine separating the Parnes and ^Egaleus is nov/ entered. To the r. , surrounded by pines, Liossica Calybia to the 1. a view is disclosed of the Eleusinian plain and the sea. The road now leads (W.) to the village of Chastia. Two wild ravines descend from the Parnes (from the X.) to this point. The precipitous road winds through the most W. of these, but the traveller need be under no apprehension, as the Athenian horses are sure- footed. Scanty pine-forest grows on each side of the road. The ruins of the i fortress of Phyle CPvlrj) are perched on a lofty mountain-buttress, which j descends precipitously on the S. and W. into the gorge through which an ancient bridle-path led to Boeotia, and is connected wuth the mountains by a broad neck of land on the E. It is not probable that any town of con- sequence was ever situated here, but the place was important as a frontier- fortress. In 403 Thrasybulus took up his position here, and soon atterwards delivered Athens from the yoke of the Thirty Tyrants. The fortifications, still admirably preserved, enclosed a small table-land extending from E. to W. The principal entrance on the E. side was so contrived that an approaching enemy would be compelled to expose his undefended right i think to the garrison. There is also a small entrance at the S. E. angle. j This eminence, 20{X)' above the sea-level, commands an extensive prospect. The spectator surveys the entire range of the iEgaleus at his feet, and at its extremity Salamis in an almost complete semicircle (whence it derives it present name of A'ovXovQy ^ i. e. a kind of rusk ol semicircular shape). The eye wanders over the entire Attic plain, with Athens itself, Hymettus, j the Sinus Saronicus with yEgina and the coasts of the Peloponnesus. _ Higher , mountains exclude the view in other directions. The abrupt precipice to j the X. E. is the Hanna of antiquity. Descending more towards the 1., the i J from Athens. PIRAEUS. 39. Route. 359 traveller readies the romantically situated little '"monastery of navayia efi ici Klsiorci (‘Our Lady of the Defile'), situated at the base of the Harma, about i|2 hr. above the village of Chastia. To the Monastery of Kaessar ani ^ situated among the spurs of the Hymettus, a pleasant walk of 4^12 M. The first part of the route is the same as that to Cephissia (see above). Opposite to the monastery of Aso- maton the road turns to the r., traversing the site of the ancient Lyceum, and crosses a branch of the Ilissus (the Eridanus of the ancients). Follow- ing this route, the traveller passes a ruined outbuilding {fAEioyj) of the mo- nastery, which soon afterwards suddenly comes in view in a wooded ravine. A temple of Aphrodite, of which relics are extant, once stood here. The beautiful , fresh spring , flowing from an ancient enclosure termed avXXdv TvrjQa, was believed to be a remedy for the barrenness of women, a super- ' stition which still survives. There are two other springs to the r. and I. beyond the monastery. By the chapel of St. Mark on the hill near the mo- I nastery a charming '-'view is enjoied. Piraeus. The traveller about to quit Athens by sea should proceed to the Piraeus an hour or two before the departure of the steamboat, and as- cend the Munychia the highest in the neighbourhood, and the farthest to the E. The circular site of a theatre is distinctly traced on the N. side. ; On the summit, which commands a fine '-'panorama, there is a deep shaft : f/.Q'r}Gq)vyz'iov) , which served as a means of escape to the besieged in case of urgent necessity. The form of the peninsula of the Piraeus is dis- tinctly seen hence. On the N. is the Piroeus^ strictly so called 5 on the 1 . of the entrance was the war -harbour {v.dvd'aQoq) , on the r, the mercantile harbour {i/A,ndoiov). To the S. of the latter is a flat and rocky tongue of land on which the ancient harbour-town lay. The harbour on the E. side of the latter, now termed Paschalimani or Straliotiki., the Zea of anti- quity, was destined, as well as the small circular harbour of Munychia (now* Phanari., S. of the Munychia Hill), for the reception of ships of war under sheds {vEihGOiY.oi) . Traces of the latter are still visible under the water. The broad and open Bay of Phaleron towards the S. is much frequented as a sea-bathing place. At the extremity of the peninsula, adjoining the new lighthouse, there is a tomb hewn in the natural rock, commonly supposed to be that of Themistocles, but now covered by the water. INDEX, hbacaenum 262. Abate 249. Abbadiazza 263. AbelUnum 12. Accumoli 173. Acerenza 178. Acerra 11. Acerrae 11. Acesines 274. Acharnae 358. Achates 243. Acherontia 178. Acherusian Lake 99. Aci, Isola d’ 275. Aci Gastello 275. Aci Reale 275. Aciris 282. Acis 275. Acithis 231. Acqua Dolce 260. Acquaviva 179. Acragas 236. Acrocorinth 327. Actium 326. Aderno 253. jEclanuni 13. .ffigaean Islands 230. uEgaleus 327. uEgina 328. jEgusa 230. uEnaria 101 . jEsarus 183. JEsernia 169. iEtna. Mount 282. .Etolia 326. S. Agata, near Sessa 23. — , near Sorrent 140. — , Sicily 260. — de’ Goti 172. Agathyrnum 260. Ager Falernus 23. — Taurianus 185. Agerola 156. Agnano, Lago d’ 92. Agrio, r 11. Agosta 289. Agri, river 181. 182. Agrigentum 236. Agrimonte 181. Agrippina, Sepolcro d’ 96. Agyrium 252. Aiabon 289. Aigion 326. Akrai 245. Alaesa 260. Alaro 184. Alatri 3. Alba 16. Alba Fucentia 16. Albino, Monte 151. Alburnus 176. Alcamo 224. Alessano 166. S. Alessio 271. — , Capo 271. Alesus 260. Aletrium 3. S. Alfio 275. Alghero 319. All 271. Alia 250. Alicata 241. Alice, Punta dell’ 183. Alicuri 308. Alimena 264. Alii, river 183. Altarelio di Baida 216. Altavilla 256. Altilia 160. Aluntium 260. Amalfi 152. Amantea 203. Amantia 203. Ainara, Monte 159. Amaseno, river 18. Amatrice 173. Ambracian Gulf, the 326. Amenanus 282. Ame stratus 260. Amiternum 175. Ampelokipo 357. Amsanctus-Lake, the 13. Amyclae 20. Anacapri 44. Anagni 2. . Anagnia 2. Anapus, river 301. Ancyra 235. S. Andrea, Monte 21. Andria 162. Andros 358. S. Angelo, monastery 12. — , Monte, near Naples 138. — , — , Lipari 307. — , — , Volscian Mts. 2. — , — , the Little 156. S. Angelo in Formis 10. — a guida 156. Angri 145. S. Aniello 139. Antignano 84. Anti-Milos 324. S. Antimo 172. Antinum 15. Antipaxo 326. Antrodoco 174. Antullo, il Pozzo d’ 3. Anxa 165. Anxanum 159. Anxur 19. Apice 170. Apollonia 259. Apricena 161. Aqua Cornelia 257. Aquae Cutiliae 173. Aquila 174. Aquino 4. Aquinum 4. Aragona 247. Aranci, Fiumara dell’ 262. Arangia, Fiumara 262. Arce 13. Arci, Monte 317. Arco 188. Arco Felice 98. Arena, river 233. Arena Bianca 185. INDEX. 361 t Arenella 84, Argolis 324. Argostoli 326. i Argyripe 161 . * Ariano 13. — , Monte 2. Ariccia 17. * Arienzo 11. Ariosa, Mt. 177. Aritzo 317. 321. Armi, Capo dell’ 184. 324. : Arpaia 11. I Arpi 161. i Arpinas^ Insula 14. * Arpino 14. ' Arpinnm 14. Arso, Lava dell’ 102. ; Artemisio, Monte 2. Artesino, Monte 251. Arx Volscorum 13. ; Asaro 252. Ascensione, Monte della ' 158. : Ascoli 158. ’ Asculum Picenum 158. Asinaros 246. Asinello 229. Asmaros 293. Aso 157. Asomaton 357. Aspromonte, Mt. 188. 270. ^ Assorus 252, A store, Monte 186. Astroni 93. Atella 177. Atella 24. Atena 181. Aterno, river 167. Athens 328. Academy 331. '•"•'Acropolis 340. Agia Marina 353. — Triada 356. Agora 350. 1 Archaeolog. Insitute * 331. Areopagus 339. Arsakion 331. Bazaar 349. Botan. Garden 356. Callirrhoe 337. Clock Tower 351. Colonus 355, St. Demetrius 354. Dipylon 356. Eleusinion 337. '^'Eleusis 357. English Church 336. "•’•'Erechtheurn 346. '■■'Gate of Hadrian 346. Kapnikaraea 349. I Athens : Lantern of Demosthe- nes 337. Lycahettus 355. Market Gate 350. Metropolis 348. '•'— , Little 349. '•'Monument of Lysicra- tes 337. — of Philopappus 354. — of Thrasyllus 338. Mosque 349. Museion 354. Neopolis 331. St. Xicomedes 336. Nymphs, Hill of the 353. *Odeum of Herodes 338. '■'Olympieum 336. Palace, royal 336. '•'Palace Garden 355. ••“"Parthenon 344. Phaleron 359. St. Philip 351. Philopappus 354. Piraeus 325. 327. 359. Pnyx 354. Polytechnic 332. Post-office 329. 331. Prison of Socrates 354. '•“"Propyl aea 342. Rom. Cath. Church 331. Stadium 337. Stoa of Attalus 350. — of Eumenes 338. '•' — of Hadrian 350. Telegraph-office 329, '•“"Temple of Nike apte- ros 341. '" — of Zeus Olympius 336. '"Theatre of Dionysus 338. St. Theodore 331. '^“"Theseum 351. Tomb of Cimon 354. — of Themistocles 359. '•'Tower of the Winds 349. University 331. Varvakion 331. Athmonon 357. Atina 15. Atina 181. Atrani 152. Atri 158. Atrio del Cavallo 106. Atripalda 12. Atzara 322. Aufidus 162. 178. Auletta 176. Avellino 12. Avernus, Lacus 94. lAversa 24. Avezzano 15. Avigliano 177. Avola 246. Bacoli 96. Badia di S. Spirito 247. Badolato 184. Bagaria 218. Bagnara 187. 270. Bagni di Nerone 95. — di Paterno 173. Bagnoli 79. 89. Bahira, El 221. Baia 95. Bajae 95. Baida 215. Balensul 245. Balzo di Trifoglietto 287. Balzorano 15. S. Bannaba, Monte 230. Bantia 178. Banzi, Abbadia de’ 178. Barbagia, la 321. Barbaro, Monte 225. Barbarossa , Castello di 144. Barcellona 262. Bardo, the 222. Bari 163. Barium 163. Barletta 162. Baronia 13, Baronisi 12. Barra, La 106. Barrafranca 247. 255. S. Bartolomeo 316. Barucu, Monte 249. Bas-el-Belat 233. Basento, river 177. 182. S. Basilio 179. Basiluzzo 308. Batinus 158. Battipaglia 149. 176. Bauladu 317. Bauli 245. Bauli 96, Bavuso 263. Belbina 324. Belici, river 234. Bellici Sinistro 249. Bellizzi 12. Belmonte 203. Belpasso 254. Belvedere 203. Belvedere, Monte 224. S. Benedetto 16. 158. Benevento 170. S. Biagio, river 236. Biancavilla 253. Biferno, river 160. 362 INDEX. Birgi, rix'er 231. Biscari 243. Bisceglie 163. Bitetto 179. Bivona 186. Bocca cU Flume 19. Boccadifalco 215. Boeo, Capo 232. Boiano 169. Bon, Cape 220. Bonacria 316. Bonannaro 319. Bonfornello 257. Bonifato, Monte 224. Bonorva 318. Borglietto 224. Borrone 231. Borrianum 169. Borutta 319. Bosa 318. Botte, Canale delle 18. Bove, Val di 287. BovianumUndecimanorum 169. Bo vino 169. Bradano, river 182. Brente&ion 164. Brilessus 324. Brindisi 164. Brolo 261. Bronte 277. Brucato 257. Bruncu Spina , Panta 321. Brundisium 164. Buongiorno, Monte 249. Buonpietro 264, Busacchino 249. Busamara, Kalata 249. Busambra 248. Buscemi 245. Busento, river 184. Butera 242. Buttigliara, river 292. Cabras 317. Cabrera 324. Caccamo 257. Cacyparis 246. Cagliari 313. — , Stagno di 314. Cajaniello 8. 169, €aieta 22. Cairo, Monte 8. Calacte 260. Calascibetta 252. Calatafimi 225. Calatajiiano 274. Calava, promontory 261. Hales 8. HalUpol's 105. S. Calogero , Monte 235. 257. — , Li pari 307. Calore, river 160. 170. Caltabelotta 235. — , river 235. Caltagirone 255. Caltanisetta 247. Caltavuturo 264. Calvi 8. Calvo, Monte 162. 174. Camaldoli 84. — near Sorrento 140. — della Avvocata 152. Camarana, river 243. Camarina 243. C amicus 236. Cammarata 184. 248, — , Pizzo di 247. Campanarello 13. Campanaro, Monte 250. Campanella, Punta della 141. 156. Campania 10. 86. Campedda, la 318. Campestrino , Ponte di 180. Cam pi 180. Campi Elysii 98. — Oeloi 242. — Laestrigonii 288. — Palentini 16. — Veteres 176. Campo Bianco 307. — Lazaro 319. — Tenese 181. Campobasso ^160. Campobello 233. — di Licata 247. Caropomarino 160. Canicatti 247, Canalotti 229. Cancello 11. Cannae 162, Cannita 219. Canosa 162. Cantara, river 274. 289. Cantone, fiumara 262. Canusium 162. Capaccio Nuovo 149. — Vecchio 149. Capestrano 175. Capistrello 15. Capiti 151. Capo Bianco 235. — d’Acqua 172. — Castella 183. — Soprano 242. Caposela, Villa 22. Cappadocia 16. Cappelliere 248. Capreae 142. Capri 141. Caputo, Monte 224. Cajma 8. Caralis 314. Carbonara, Capo 314. Carcaci, Ponte 253. Career! di Nerone 96. Cardillo, Monte 255. Cariati 183. Carini 224. Carlentini 289. Caronia, Bosco di 260. Carotto 139. 141. Carpanzano 185. Carpineto 3. Cartellemi 2.53. Carthage’ 222. Cartiera del Fibreno 14. Casa Inglese 286. Casabona 104. Casalnuovo 11. 181. 184. Casamicciola 102. Cascano 24. Cascia 173. Caserta 10. Casilinum 8. Casino 5, Casino Chiriaco 185. Casinum 5. Casmenae 243. Casoria 172. Casotta di Napoli 173. Cassano 182. Cassaro 246. Cassibile, river 246. Castagna, Capo 307. Castel di Sangro 168. Castellamare 137. 224. Castellaneta 179. Castello del Monte 162. — in Parco 145. — , Capo 183. Castellone 22. Castelluccio 181. Casteltermini 248. Castelvetere 184. Castelvetrano 226. Castiglione 276. Castro 166. Castrofilippo 247. Castrogiovanni 251. Castronuovo 248. Castro Pofi 3. Castrovillari 181. 184. Castrum Minervae 166. — Novum 158. S. Cataldo 247. — , Castello di 165. Catalfano, Monte 205. 218. Cat an a 279. INDEX. 363 Catania 278. ' — , Piano di 254. 288. Catanzaro 183. I Catena del Margliine 318. I S. Caterina 188. 247. 250. Caudium 11. ; Caulonia 184. Cava 12. 1 — , la 146. i Cavalli, Monte de’ 249. ; Ceccano 3. I Cecina, la 2. I Cedrinus 322. Cefalii 258. Celano 16. i — , Lago 15. ; Celsi 12. Cento Camerelle 96. Centorbi 252^ €enturix>ae 253. ; Cephaloedium 258. : Cephalonia 326. ’ Cephissia 357. Ceptiissus, the 327. 329. Ceprano 3. Cerda 264. Cerigo 324. Cerignola 162. Cerrila, boschi della 284. Cervaro 8. 169. — , river 169. 170. Cesarano 151 . S. Cesario di Lecce 165. Cetraro 203. Chalandri, the 358. Charybdis 187. 270. Chalcidicus^ Mons 269. Chastia 358. Chiaiolella 101. Chiaramonte 243. , Chiazza 255. Chienti, river 157. Chiesazza, la 256. Chieti 167. i Chieuti 160. Chiunzo, Monte 151. — , Torre di 151. , Chiusa 249. Choerades 180. Chrysas 252. Ciampino 1. j Ciano, river 182. Cicala 12. ^ Ciccio, Monte 269. • Cicero’s Tomb 21. Ciclopi, scogli dei 275. Cicolano 16. Cifali, Bagni di 249. Cimiti, Capo delle 183. Cinquemiglia , Piano di 168. Cintaria, la 230. Ciocca 320. Circeji 19. Circeo, Monte 19. Ciro 183. Cisterna 17. Citara 152. Citta Vecchia 305. Civita d’Antino 15. — Ducale 173. — Lavinia 2. — di Penne 159. — Reaie 173.^ — Retenga 175. — Santangelo 159. Civitanuova 157. Civitella di Roveto 15. Clanius 11. S. Clemente 145. — di Casauria 167. Cocuzzo, Monte 185. 203. Codola 12. Codrongianus 319. Cofano 230. Collepardo, Grotta di 3. Colles Leucogoei 92. Collesano 258. Colonne, Capo delle 183. Colonnetta 229. Comino 305. Com iso 243. Comittini 24T. Conca 155. — , Punta di 155. Conca d’Oro, la 205. Concazze, Serra delle 287. Confini, Torre de’ 20. Cono 255. Consentia 184. Contessa 249. 250. Conti delle Fontanelle 140. — di Geremenna 155. Contrada 12. Copiae 182. Coppola, Monte 137. Corace, river 183. 185. Coraci 185. Corato 163. Corcyra 325. Corfu 325. Corfinium 168. Cori 17. Corigliano 165. 183. Corinth 326. Corleone 249. Corno, Monte 158. Cornus 317. Coroglio, Punta di 84. Corpo di Cava 146. Correboi, Col di 321. Corvo, Monte 230. Cosa 182. Coscile, river 182. Cosenza 184. Cossyra 220. Cotrone 183. Crancotta, Fiumara 262. Crapoila 140. Crathis 182. Crati, river 182. 184. Crimisa 183. Crimissus 225. Crimiti, Monte 292. Crocchio, river 183. S. Croce 243. — , Capo 289. Croce , Montagna della 224. Crocelle di Agrifoglio, le 185. Croton 183. Crucoli 183. Cuba, la 214. Cuccio, Monte 205. Cum 03 98. Cunano, Monte 278. Cupramarittima 157. Cutro 183. Cutto, Monte 278. Cyane, Fountain 301. Cyclades, the 324. Cythera 324. Damecuta 144. Damusi 254. Daphni 326. Daunus 178. Decima, Fiumara 274. Demos Hermos 356. — Lacciadae 356. Denticane 13. Deserto 140.' Diamante 203. Diana, Castello di 249. Diano 181. Dicaearchia 102. Dinnamari, Mt. 269. Dirillo, river 243. Dittaino, river 252. Divieto 263. S. Domenico 160. — Soriano 186. S. Donato 165. Drago, river 236. 247. Dragonara, Grotta 97. Drepanon 229. Duchessa, la 176. Due fratelli 152. Dugenta 172. Eboli 176. Egesta 225. 364 INDEX. Eircta 217. Eknomos 241. Eleusis 357. Eleutherus 219. S. Elia, Monte 181. 270. — , Capo 314. St. Elias, Mt. (Aegina)324. S. Elpidio 157. Enguium 264. Enna 251. Entella 249. Epitafiio 163. Epitafia, Torre dell’ 20. Epomeo, Monte 103. Epomeus 101. Epopeus 101. Equa 138. Erbe Blanche 254. Erbessus 247. Eridanus 359. Erymanthus 326. Eryx 230. Esaro, river 183. Etna 254. S. Eiifemia 185. Golfo di 204. Eurotas, the 324. Yabrateria veins 3. Falconara 242. — , river 242. Falconari 231. - Falconera 324. Falconiera, Monte 219. Falernus^ Ager 23. Faraglioni, I 143. 275. Faro 269. Fasano 164. Fata Donnavilla, Grotto of 262. Favara 241. 247. — , la 219. Favarotta 255. Favignana 230. Favorita, la 106. 217. S. Felice 11. 19. S. Ferdinando 271. Ferentino 3. Ferentinum 3. Ferentum 178. Ferla 246. Fermo 157. Ferru, Monte 317. Feronia 19. Fibrenus, river 14. Ficarazelli 218. Ficarazzi 218. 249. Ficuzza 249. Figlino 151. Filicuri 308. S. FiJiiijto d’Argirb 252. Filosofo, Torre del 287. ! Finale 259. Finisterra , promontory 166. Firmum Picenum 157. I Fiumarone, river 172. Fiume freddo 203. 225. ; 274. !— Grande 257. 258. 264. !— Salso 241. 250. 252.258. j — Torto 257. 264. Fiumicello, river 250. Fiumicino 24. S. Flavia 218. Flaviano, river 158. Floridia 245. Flumendosa, river 322. Flumeri 13. Foggia 161. Foi, Monte 176. Fondi 20. — , Lake of 20. Fonni 321. Fons Bandusiae 178. Fontana 13. 104. — Congiada 321. — Grande 178. — Vecchia 274. Fontes Leucogaei 92. Fordungianus 317. Forenza 178. Forio 103. Formiae 22. Formianum 22. Forno, 11 97. Foro Appio 18. Forum Appii 18. Forum Trajani 317. Forza 271. Fossa 175. Fossacesia 159. Fossa nuova 19. Francavilla 157, 182. 185. S. Franco, Monte 175. Francolisi 24. S. Fratello 260. — , Fiumara 260. Fratocchie, Le 17. Fratta-Grumo 172. Fregellae 4. Frigento 13. Frosinone 3. Frumento, Monte 287. Frusino 3. Fucino, La go 15. Fundi 20. Fuore 155, Fuorigrotta 179. Furculae Caudinae 11. Furiano, Fiumara di 260. Fusaro, Foce del 99. Fusaro, Lago del 99. Fuscaldo 203. Gaeta 22. — , Mola di 22. Gaggera, river 225. Gagliano 252. Gaidari 321. Galatina 165. Galli, I 141. Gallico 188. Gallipoli 165. Gallo, Capo 217. 324. Gangi 264. Gargano, Monte 160. 162. Garigliano, river 4. 23. Gaulos 305. Gavoi 322. Gefala 249. Gela 242. Gela, river 243. Gennargentu, Mt. 321. Genzano 17. Gerace 184. Geranea, the 324. S. Germano 5. — , Stufe di 92. Gesso 263. Giambra 245. Giara, la 321. Giardinello 224. Giardinetto 169. Giardini 271. Giarre 275. Giaretta, river 288. Giave 318. Gibelrosso, Monte 249. Gibilmanna 258. Giganti, Grotta de’ 219. Gioja 179. 186. Giojosa 261. S. Giorgio 12. 180. S. Giovanni Battista 232. — di Cammarata 248. — in Carico 4. — de Sinis 317. — a Teduccio 106. Giovinazzo 163. Girgenti 236. Girio, river 167. Giuliana 249. S. Giuliano, Monte 230. Giulianova 158. S. Giuseppe 146. Gizio, river 167. Gobbo, Rio 321. Gojola, la 81. Goletta 221. Gorgo di Cotone 227. Gozzo 305. ' Gradelle, Punta delle 144. INDEX. 365 Gragnano 138. 156. Grammicliele 255. Gran Sasso d’ltalia 158. Granitola, Punta di 233. Gr alter i 258. Gravina 285. Griffone, Monte 218. Grotta azzurra 144. — del cane 92. Grottaminarda 13. Grottammare 157. Grotte, Le 247. Grumentum 181. Grumo 179. Guardia 203. — , Monte di 306. Guardia S. Framondi 160. Gulfa, la 250. Gurnalunga , river 255. 288. Gurrita 277. S. Gusmano, river 289. Gypseli 358. 'Kadranum 253. Hadria 158. Halycus 235. Hammam-el-Enf 222. Helikon, the 326. Heloros 246. Hemichara 264. Heraclea 182. Heraclea Minoa 235. Heracleia 110. Heracli 358. Herasan Mounts, the 252. Herculaneum 110. Hiera 230. Himera 257. Himera Meridionalis 241. 250. 264. — Septentrionalis 264. Hipparis 243. Hipponium 186. Histonium 159. Hyhla Heraea 243. Hyhla Megara 189. Hyhla Minor 254. Hyccara 224. Hydra 324. Hydruntum 165. Hymettus 324. Ilypsas 234. 236. Iglerias 316. Ilissus, the 329. 359. Imele, river 16. Jnarime 101. Inice, Monte 226. Inostra 305. Insulae Diomedeae 160. Inter amna 158. Interocrea 174. Inierpromium 167. S. lorio 106. Iri, the 324. Ischia 101. Isclero, the 172. Isernia 169. Isili 321. Isola 14. Isola Ferdinandea 231. — longa 231. — delle Saline 308. Isoletta 4. Ispica, Val d’ 244. Ithaca 326. Itri 21. Kaessarani 359. Kakiscala 357. Kalamaki 326. Kalavryta 357. Kamatero 358. Kasr-Janni 251. Kasr-Sad 219. Kolonnaes, Cape 324. Kuluri 324. Kyllene, the 326. Laccie, Monte 230. Lacco 103. Lacinian promontory 183. Laconi 321. Laconian Gulf, the 324. Lacus Amyclanus 20. — Avernus 94. — Cutiliae 173. — Fucinus 15. — Fundanus 20. — Lucrinus 93. — Niger 181. — Palicorum 255. Lagonegro 181. Lamato, river 185. Lanciano 159. 168. Landro 250. Landro, river 176. — , Fiumara 262. Lao, river 181. Laos 181. Larino 160. Larinum 160. Lascari 258. Latignano, Pozzo di 173. Lato, river 182. Lauria 181. Laurion^ Promont. 324. Lauialae 20. Lavello 178. Lavinium 2. S. Lazaro, Fort 156. Lazaro, Campo 319. Lazzaro 188. Lecce 165. Lene 154. Lentini 288. — , Biviere di 255. 288. S. Leonardo 161. Leonessa 173. Leonforte 252. 263. Leontini 288. Lepanto 326. Lepre, Monte 278. Lepsina 356. Lercara 248. 258. Lesina, Lago di 160. Lesta 173. Lete Vivo 157. Letojanni , Fiumara di 271. Lettere 138. Leuca, promontory 166. Leuca 166. Leucadia 326. Levante, Porto di 307. Levanzo 230. Liberatore, Monte 169. S. Liberio 141. Licata 241. Licatia 285. Licodia, S. Maria di 254. Licosa, Punta della 203. S. Liguoro 141. Lilibeo, Capo 232. Lilyhaeum 232. Linaro, Capo 24. Linguaglossa 276. S. Lionardo , river 250. 255. 288. Liossia 358. Liossica Kalybia 358. Lipari 306. Lipari Islands 305. Lipuda, river 183. Liris, river 8. 13. 23. Lisca Bianca 308. Locri Epizephyrii 184. Longanus 262. S. Lorenzo 19. — , Certosa di 181. S. Lorenzo Maggiore 171. Luce 182. S. Lucia, Fiumara 262. S. Lucido 203. Luco 16. Lucus Angitiae 16. Lupia 165. Lungarina 246. Lupino, Monte 2. Macara 235. Maccaluba 240. Maccaroni, Ponte de’ 253. 366 INDEX. Macchia 169. Macoiner 318. Macopisa 318. 3Iaddalena 322. Maddaloni 11. IMadiuni, river 227. Madonian Mountains 252. 258. Madonna dell’ Autu 224. — di Camarana 243. — !Nera 261. — della Rocca 274. — di Saccargia 320. — di Siponto 161. — di Trapani 230. Madredonna 245. Maenza 18. Maestra, La 272. Maga, Grotta della 19. Magano 275. Magliano 16. Maglie 165. Magnisi 289. Maida 185. Majella, Mt. 15. 159. Majori 152. Malaspina, Monte 308. Mai Consiglio , Scoglio del 229. Malea, Cape 324. Maletta 277. Maievenium 170. Malta 302. Malvagna 276. Mamertum 186. Mamojada 322. Mandas 321. Manduria 180. Manfredonia 161. Mangonaro 248. 250. Mani, the 324. Maniace 277. Mannu, river 321. Marabello, Pizzo di 224. Marano 157. Marathon 356. Marcello , Torre del 290. 3Iarcianise 172. S. Marco 260. 8. Marco, C-^pe 317. Mare Dolce 219. — Morto 96. — Piccolo 179. — Pontis 317. Maretiino 230. 8. Margarita 101. 8. iMargherita 249. 8. Maria dell’ Assunta 155. — di Capua 8. — a Castello 140. 8. Maria di Leuca 166. — di Li cod i a 254. — Maggiore 8. 145. — a Monte Vergine 235. — della Neve 140. — della Scala 263. — del 8occorso 143. — della Valle 263. — della Vittoria 16. Marino 1. Marno, river 176. Marro, river 186. Marruhium 16. Marsala 231. Marusi 357. M a s c al i 2^5. Mascalucia 285. Massa Lubrense 141. 3Iassafra 179. Massico, Monte 23. Matapan, Cape 324. Matese, Mts. 160. Matrinus 158. 8. Maura 326. Mazarus 233. Mazzara 233. Mazzarino 247. Meana 322. Megarean Bay 289. Megaris 41. 324. Melas, Mte. 317. Melazzo 262. Melfi 177. Melingunis 306. Melite 303. Melito 13. Mellili 290. Menfrici 234. Menidi 358. Menzil-Jussuf 250. Mercante, il Passo del 184. Mercato di 8abato 98. Mercogliano 12. Mesa 19. Mesima, river 204. Messana 266. Messenia 324. Messina 264. — , the Strait of 269. Meta 139. Metapontum 182. Metaurus 186. Mezzocampo 254. Mezzojuso 249. 8. Michele , near Calta- girone 255. — , near Manfredonia 161. Mignano 8. Mileto 186. Milis 317. Militello 255. Milo, Torre di 182. Miniiani, ^lonte 250. Miiimerinuin 216. Minardo, Monte 278. Mineo 255. Miniscola 97. Minoa 235. Minor! 152. Minturnae 23. Mirabel la 13. Mirti, Fiume dei 249. Miseno, Capo 97. \Muenum 97. Misericordia 250. Misilnieri 249. Missolonghi 326. Misterbianco 255. Mistretta 260. Mitro, Monte 224. Mitroniania, Punta di 143. — , Val di 143. Modica 244. Modugno 179. Mofera, Pizzo di 258. Mofete, la 13. Mojano 172. Mojo 276. Mola 164. 274. Mol a di Gaeta 22. Molentargiu, Stagno di 314. Molfetta 163. Molinello, river 289. Molini, Valle de’ 154. Monalus 259. Monastir 316. 321. Mondragone 23. Monernbasia 324. Monfina, Rocca 8. Mon forte 263. Mongerbino, Cape 205. Mongibello 284. Mongio, Pizzo di 261. Monopoli 164. Monreale 213. Mons Alhurnus 176. — Chalcidicus 269. — Chronios 235. — Gaurus 137. — Tifata 10. Montagnuolo, il 285. Montaguto 169. Montaperto 247. Montauro 184. Monte Allegro 235. — Alto 188. — Casino 6. — Fortino 2. — S. Giovanni 13. — 8. Giuliano 230. Monte Grosse 245. ; — Miletto 160. ' — Nuovo 33. — Vergine 12. 33. Montecalvo 170. Motecardillo 255. ■ Monteleone 186. 188. Montemurro 181. Montereale 173. Montesarchio 11. Montesardo 166. Montesilvano 159. Montes Laciarii 138. Monticelli 20. Monti Rossi 254. 285. Montuoro 12. i Morano 181. , Morino 15. ' Moropano 104. Moscia, Monte 183. Motta 161. Motta S. Anastasia 254. ; Mottola 179. Motya 232. Miicini, Monte 250. Munychia 359. Muranum 181. Murata, la 177. Murgie di Minervino 162. Muro 166. Mutignano 158. Mylae 262. Nao, Capo 183. ^Naples 25. Accademia Pontaniana 56. Albergo dei Poveri 51. S. Angelo a ]Nilo 57. *S. Anna de’ Lombardi 53. SS. Annunziata 58. Aqua della Bolla 51. — di Carmignano 51. — Julia 51. Archives 58. "Arcivescovado 60. Armoury 45. Arsenal 45. S. Barbara 45. Botanic Garden 51. *Camaldoli 84. Campi santi 59. Capodimonte 50. ’■ Cappella del Tesovo 62. S. Carlo, Theatre 42. Castel Capuano 58. — del Carmine 47. — isuovo 45. — deir Ovo 41. — Sant’ Elmo 83. INDEX. i Naples: ! Catacombs 49. '•'Cathedral 60. Cemeteries 59. Chiaja, the 48. '■'S. Chiara 51-. Chiatamone 41. Chiesa del Sannazaro 80. Collegio de’ Cinesi 49. Conservatory of Music 64. Corso Vittorio Ema- nuele 82. *Duomo 60. *S. Domenico 55. Exchange 44. S. Filippo Neri 63. Fontana di Masaniello 48. — Medina 44. Foresteria 42. S. Francesco di Paola 42. S. Gennaro dei Poveri 49. Gesu nuovo 54. — > S. Giacomo degli Spag- nuoli 44. '•'S. Giovanni a Carbo- nara 60. Grotto of Sejanus 81. •"S. Januarius, Chap. 61. Immacolatella 46. 'Tncoronata 52. Largo della Carita 48. — del Gastello 44. — S. Domenico 55. — S. Gennaro 60. — del Mercatello 48. — del Mercato 48. — del Palazzo Redale 42. — di S. Spirito 48. — della Vittoria 41. — S. Trinita 54. Lazzaretto 80. Lazzaroni 47. Lighthouse 46. *S. Lorenzo 63. S. Lucia 41. *S. Maria del Carmine 47. — la Nuova 52. — del Parto 80. — di Piedigrotta 83. — della Pieta de’ Sangri 57. *S. Martino 82. Mergellina, the 80. Miradois 51. 367 Naples : Molo grande 46. '■'Monte Oliveto 53. — di Pieta 58. Municipio 44. ""■'Museum 64. Nisida 81. Osservatorio Reale 51. S. Paolo Maggiore 63. Palazzo Angri 48. — Arcivescovile 64. — di Capodimonte 50. — Casacalenda 55. — delle Connonate 81. — Corigliano 55. — di Donn’ Anna 80. — Fondi 52. — Gravina 53. — Maddaloni 48. — Miranda 48. — Reale 42. — Sansevero 55. — Santangelo 58. Piazza del Municipio 44. — del Plebiscite 42. S. Pietro a Majella 64. — Martire 47. Pizzofalcone 41. Ponte di Chiaja 48. — della Maddalena 106. — della Sanita 49. Ponti Rossi 51. Porta Capuana 59. — del Carmine 47. — S. Gennaro 51. Porto Grande 46. — Militare 46. — Piccolo 48. Posilipo 78. Post - office , General 53. Reclusorio 51. '■'S. Restituta 61. Sanita 46. Scuola di Virgilio 81. S. Sebastiano 45. S. Severino e Sosio 57. S. Severe , Cappella di 57. ■■‘'Strada nuova di Posi- lipo 80. — deir Infrascata 83. Theatres 32. 43. Toledo 48. Tribunal! 59. S. Trinita Maggiore 54. University 57. Vicaria, la 59. Villa Angri 80. 368 INDEX. ifaples : Villa Avelli 50. — Belvedere 83. — Floridiana 83. — Forquet 50. — Gallo 50. — de Melis 81. — Meiiricoffre 50. — Minutolo 80. — Nazionale 77. — Patrizi 84. — Reale 77. Regina Isabella 50. — Ricciardi 84. — Ruffo 50. — Rocca Matilda 80. — Rocca Romana 80. — Tricase 84. Virgil’s Tomb 79. S. Vitale 80. Vomero 83. ^ardo 165. Naro 241. Naso 260. Nasone, Punta del 106. Natrella, la 13. Naupactos 326. Naxos 274. Nebrodi, the 251. 258. 276. Negro, river 176. 180. Neptunian Mts., the 272. Nerano, Marina di 140. Neretum 165. Nerone, Bagni di 95. Nesis 81. Neto, river 183. Netum 246. Nevv^-Corinth 326. Nicastro 185. S. Nicola 152. 282. S. Nicolo d’ Arena 288. Nicolosi 282. Nicosia 252. 264. Nicotera 204. Ninfa, river 17. Nisi, Fiume di 271. Nisida 81. Nissoria 252. Nizza di Sicilia 271. Noara 262. Nocara 182. Nocera 12. 145. 205. Noicattaro 164. Nola 12. Nora 316. Norcia 173. Norma 17. Noto 246. Nuceria Alfaterna 145. Nuoro 324. Nurallao 321. Nuraminis 316. Nursia 173. Oenussae^ Insulae 324. Ofanto 178. — , river 162. 178. Ogliastro 249. Ogygia 183. 303. Olbia 319. Olivieri 262. — , Fiumara 262. Ongnina, 1’ 275. Onobalas 274. Oppido 186. Oreto, river 248. Oristano 317. Orlando, Capo d’ 138. 261. — , Torre d’ 22. Orosei 322. Orri 316. Orru, Monte 322. Orso, Capo d’ 152. — , Monte 224. Orta 162. Orton 159. Ortona 159. Ortygia 291. Osilo 320. Ostia 24. Ostuni 164. Otranto 165. Ottajano 12. Ozieri 319. Pacchino 246. Pace 269. Paceco 231. Padula 181. Paeonidae 358. Pagani 145. Palagianello 179. Palagiano 179. Palagonia 255. Palazzo 178. Palazzo Adriano 250. Palazzolo 244. Palermo 205. Bagaria 218. Baida 215. Biblioteca Comunale 212 . ’•'Botan. Garden 207. Campo di S. iSpirito 219. ’■^Cappella Palatina 208. Capuchin Monastery Casa de’ Matti 214. — Professa 212. Palermo : Castellammare, Fort 216. Catacombs 207. S. Catnldo 210. ■^'Cathedral 209. Collegio Nuovo 210. 'Cuba 214. Cubola 214. S. Domenico 213. Favara, la 219. Favorita, la 217. S. Francesco d’Assisi 212. Gancia, la 213. Giardinolnglese207.2l7. 'S. Giovanni degli Fre- miti 209. — de’ Leprosi 218. S. Giuseppe dei Teatini 210 . Grotta de’ Giganti 219. * — della S. Rosalia 217. Harbour 207. .Jesuits’ Church 212. Istituto Agrario 217. Lyceum 210. Magione, la 212. Mare Dolce 219. *S. Maria dell’ Ammi- raglio 210. S. Maria della Catena 213 — di’Gesu 219. ''Marina 206. S. Martino 215. "Martorana 2l0. "Monreale 213. Monte Pellegrino 216. "Museum 211. National Library 210. Palazzo Arcivescovile 209. — del Due d’Aumale 214. — Forcella 213. — del Municipio 210. — Paterno 212. "— Reale 208. — dei Tribunali 213. — Valguarnera 218. — Villafranca 210, Ponte deir Ammiraglio 218. Post-office 210. Solanto 218. Spedale Grande 209. Square Garibaldi 207. Stanza di Ruggiero 208. Teutonic Lodge 212. "University 211. INDEX, 369 Palermo : Villa Belmonte 216. — Butera 216. — Giulia 206. * — Serradifalco 216. *— Tasca 2l4. ===Zisa 216. Palermo, Pizzo di 258. Palica 255. Palizi, Lago di 255. Palma, near Nola 12. — , Sicily 241. Palmar ia 23 . Palmarola 23. Palmi 187. 270. Palo 24. Palycus 203. S. Panagia, Capo 289. 290. Panaria 308. Pandateria 23. Panepinto, Case di 248. Panni 169. Panormos 207. Pantacyas 288. S. Pantaleone, Isola 232. Pantani, lakes 269. Pantano 288. Pantano dell’ Acerra 11. Pantellaria 220. Panza 104. Paola 203. S. Paola , near Syracuse 245. — , Island, near Arce 14. — , near Taranto 180. Papigno 172. Parata, la 156. Parco 224. 248. Parnes, the 324. 358. Partanna 249. Paschalimani 359. Passero , Promontorio 246. Passo Fonduto 248. Pastena 176. Pastina 154. Psestum 148. Paterno 151. Paterno 254. Patissia 330. Patras 326. Patti 261. Path 166. Paulilatino 317. Pausilvpon 78. Paxo 326. Pedara Via Grande 288. Pedaso 157. Pelao, Monte 319. S. Pelino 167. Pellaro 188. Baedp:ker. Italy III. Pellegrino, Monte 216. Peloponnesus , the 324. 326. Penna , Punta di 159. 179. Pennata, Punta di 97. Penteli 358. Pentelicon, the 338. Pentima 167. Perda Cuadda, rio di 321. — lunga 317. Perdas alvas, rio de las 319. Perdeddu, Monte 322. Pergusa, Ljigo 255. Pertosa 180. Pescara 159. — , Fiume 159. Pescolanciano 169. Petraea 264. Petralia soprana 264. — sottana 264. Petrella 16. Pettineo, Fiume 260. Pettorano 168. Pezzo, Punta del 188. Phaleron 359. Phanari 359. Phorhantia 230. Phyle 358. Piano dei Greci 249. — de’ Cappuccini 230. — del Lago 286. — di Perillo 156. Pianura 79. 86. Piazza 255. Picerno 176. Piedilugo, Lake of 172. Piedimonte 276. Piemonte 138. Pietrabhondante 169. Pietraperzia 247. 255. Pietrasanta 146. S. Pietro, Basilica 141. — , Isola 180. — , river 248. 258. — in Fine 8. — Monforte 263. — Pula 316. — di Torres 318. — Vernotico 165. Pietro della Pace, Grotta di 98. Pignataro 8. Pilae 89. Pineta, Monte 245. Pinna 159. Piomba, river 158. Piperno 18. Piraeus 325. 327. 359. Piraino 261. 2d. Edition. Piscina Mirabilis 96. Pisciarelli, I 92. Pispisa, Fiumara 225. Pithecusa 101. Pizzo 185. Pizzone, II 179. Pizzuta, La 246. Placeolum 245. S. Placido 271. Plaia, the 316. Platani , river 235. 248. 250. Plemmyrion 293. Ploaghe 320. Poetelia 183. Pogerola 154. Poggio di S. Angelo 241. — Imperiale 161. Poikilon 327. Policastro 203. Policoro 182. Polignano 164. Polino, Monte 203. Polizzi 264. Polla 181. Pollina 259. — , Fiume di 259. P.ollino, Monte 181. Pompeii 110. '•'Amphitheatre 135. Barber’s Shop 130. Basilica 119. '^'Bidental 134. '•'Chalcidicum 121. Curia 121. '^Torum Civile 120. — Triangulare 134. Fullonica 129. Hotel Diomede 113. House of the wounded Adonis 129. — of the Anchor 130. — of Apollo 128. — of Ariadne 130. — with the Balcony 133. ^ — of ’the Bear 131. — of the Boar Hunt 133. — of the Chase 130. — of the new Chase 133. — dei Capitelli Figur- ati 130. — of Castor and Pollux 128. — of the Centaur 128. — of Cornelius Kufus 132. — dei Diadumeni 132. — of the Dolphin 131 . 24 370 INDEX. Pompeii : House of the Faun 130. ■ — of the large Foun- tain 129. * — of the small Foun- tafti 129. — of the Grand- duke of Tuscany 130. * — of Holconius 132. — of the Labyrinth 129. * — of Marcus Lucretius 131. " — of Meleager 128. — of the Mosaic Co- lumns 126. " — of Pansa 124. — della Pareta nera 130. — of Pomponius 130. — dei Principi di Russia 131. — of Sallust 125. — of the 5 Scheletri 129. * — of Siricus 132. — of the Surgeon 125. — of the Vestals 125. Lesche 122. Lupanare 133. Pagus Augustus felix 126. Pantheon 122. Porta di Ercolano 115. 125. — della Marina 119. — di Nola 131. — di Sarno 131. — del Vesuvio 131. Strada dell’ Abbon- danza 121. 131. — della Fortuna 130. — della Fullonica 124. — d’Iside 133. — del Lupanare 131. — di Mercurio 128. ~ di Nola 131. — dei Sepolcri 126. — di Stabia 115. 131. — dei Teatri 132. — delle Terme 123. "'Street of the Tombs 126. •Teatro Comico 135. — Tragico 135. "Temple of Aesculapius 135. — of Augustus 122. — of Fortuna 123. — of Isis 135. — of Jupiter 122. — of Mercury 121. Pompeii : "Temple of Venus 119. "Theatre, the Great 135. — , the Small 135. ’"Thermae 123. — , Stabian 132. "Tomb of Calventius Quintus 127. — of Cerinius 126. — of the Garlands 126. of L. Libella 127. of Mamia 126. — of Nsevoleia Tyche 127. — of Scaurus 127. — of Servilia 127. — of Terentius 126. ’"Town-wall 125. Tribunals 120. Triclinium 127. Triumphal Arch 123. Vico Storto 131. Vicolo di Mercurio 128. Villa of Cicero 126. — of Diomedes 127. Poni, Monte 316. Ponte di Benevento 171. — di Bovino 169. — di Caligola 89. — Maggiore 19. — Orte 167. — di Silla 181. — di Terria 172. — Valentino 170. Pontecagnano 176. Pontecorvo 4. Pontelandolfo 160. Ponti della Valle 11. 172. Pontine Marshes 18. Pontia 22. Pontone 152. Ponza 22. Ponza Islands 22. Popoli 167. Portella, la 20. Portella di Mare 219. 249. Portici 113. Porto d’Anzio 24. Porto Civitanuova 157. — S. Elpidio 157. — S. Giorgio 157. — Giulio 93. — Leone 330. — Palo 246. — Scuso 316. — Torres 320. — d’Ulisse 246. Portus Ulyssis 276. Poseidonia 149. Posilipo 78. 84. Positano 140. 155. Posta, la 15. Postiglione 176. Potenlia 177. Potenza 176. Pozza di Grotta 262_ Pozzo Piano 139. Pozzuoli 89. Prajano 155. Pratolea 168. Pratola 13. Presen zano 8. Presicce 166. Priolo 290. Privernum 18. Prochyta 100. Procida 100. — , Canale di 97. — , Monte di 97. Promontorium Herculis 184. — Japygium 166. — Lacinium 183. — Laurion 324. — Leucopetrae 284. — Pachynum 146. — Pelorum 188. — Sunion 324. — Taenaron 324. Prossedi 18. Pula 316. Pumice, Baja della 307 Punta Fiumenica 183. Psyttaleia 325. Puteolaneum 91. Puteoli 89. Puzzano 138. Quadriga di Mezzo 219 Quartu 316. Quattro Arce 216. Quisisana 137. Racalmuto 247. Ragusa 243. Rahal Zabuth 249. Rama 225. Rametta 263. Randazzo 276. Rapido, river 5. Ras Sidi-bu-Said 222.. Ratio 152. Ravello 154. Reate 173. Regalbuto 252. Reggio 188. Regi Lagni 11. Reginolo, river 152. Regitano, river 260. Resina 106. 1 Retiro 20. 1 Rhegium 188. INDEX. 371 Riardo 8. Ribera 235. Rieti 173. Rionera 168. Ripa sottile, Lago di 172. Ripalta 160. Ripatransone 157. Riposto 274. Ritorto 184. Rivisondoli 168. S. Rizzo, Colle di 263. Rizzuto, Capo 183. ' Rocca di Papa 1. Rocca, Monte 230. Rocca Cinquemiglia 168. — d’Evandro 8. — di Cusa 233. — Gorga 18. — Imperiale 182. — Monfina 8. Roccalumera 271. Roccarasa 168. Rocca di Sarno 264. — Secca 4. 18. — Valloscura 168. Roccella 258. Rocciola, Punta di 100. Rocella 184. Rogliano 185. Rosamarina, Fiumara 260. Rosarno 186. Rosso, Monte 306. Roseto 182. Rosolini 246. Rossano 183. Rotonda 181. Roveto, Val di 15. Rovigliano 137. Rovolo, Monte 278. Rubi 163. Rudiae 165. Rugge 165. Rus - Melkarth 235. Ruvo 163. Sabato, river 11. 170. [ Sacco, river 2. j Sabutus 185. j Sagras 184. I Sala 181. I Sala di Partinico 224. Salamis 324. 358. Salandrella, river 182. Salemi 226. Salerno 147. Salernum 147. Salica, Fiumara 262. Salito, river 250. Salto. 11 143. Salvatore, Monte 308. S. Salvatore dei Greci 269. Salviano, Monte 15. Salvo, Monte 251. Samassi, the 317. Sambucca 249. Sangro, river 159. 168. Sangj'us 159. Sanluri 317. Santicelli , Contrada dei 245. Santo, Monte 319. Santoni, I 245. Sapienza 324. Saponara 181. Saepinum 160. Sarcidano 321. Sardara 317. Sardinia 309. Sarno 12. — , river 12. 137. Saronic Gulf, the 329. Sarretella, river 11. Sarus 168. Sassari 319. Saticola 172. Saughe, Monte 230. Sava 180. Savignano 169. Savone, river 24. Savuto, river 185. 204. Scafati 145. Scala 155. — , la 261. Scala Greca 290. Scaletta 154. 271. Scamander 225. Scarainanga 327. Scaricatojo 141. 155. Scheria 325. Schioppo, Lo 15. Schisd 274. Schoinos 326. Schykeli 221. Sciacca 234. Scicli 243. Scilla 187. Sclafani 264. Scoglieti 243. Scordia 255. Scorzo, Lo 176. Scuola di Virgilio 81. Scurcola 16. Scutolo, Punta di 138. Scylaceum 183. Scylla 187. 270. Sebeto, river 106. 111. Secondigliano 50. Segesta 225. Segni 2. Seiano, Marina di 138. Sele, river 149. Selinunto 227. Selinus 227. Sella-Misilibesi 249. Selvatichi, Monte 98. Seminara 187. Senariccia 175. Senorbi 321. Sepino 160. Serapeum, the 90. Sermoneta 17. Seroni, Lago di 181. Serra di Falco 247. Serrenti 316. Sessa 23. Setia 18. Seui 321. Seulo 322. S. Severa 24. S. Severino 12. S. Severo 161. Sevo, Pizzo di 158. Sezza 18. Sgurgola 2. Sibilla , Montagna della 158. Sibyl , Grotto of the 94. Siculiana 235. Sidi-bu-Said 222. Signia 2. Signora, la 257. Sila-Mountains 183. 185. 188. Silarus 149. Simeto, river 224. 288. Simmari, river 183. Sindia 318. Sinno, river 181. Sinonia 23. Sinuessa 23. Sinus Terinaeus 185. Siponto, Madonna di 161. Sipontum 161. Siracusa 290. Sirens , Islands of the 140. Sirino, Monte 181. Siris 181. 182. Soccaro 8S. Solanto 218. Solaro, Monte 142. Solfatara 92. Solfizio, Serra del 258. Solinona 168. Soloeis 218. Solopaca 171, Soluntum 218. Solfizio , Serra del 285. 287. Somma , Monte 106. 110. 24 * 372 INDEX. Sonnino 19- Sora 14. Sorgono 322. Soriano 186. Sorrentini 261. Sorrento 139. — , Capo di 140. — , Piano di 138. Sortino 246. Soverato 184. Spaccaforno 246. Spada, Monte 321. Spadafora 263. Sparagio, Monte 230. Sparanisi 8. 24. S para no 244. Spartivento , Capo 184. 203. 314. Sperlinga 264. Sperlonga 21. Spezzae 324. 5pezzano 184. Spina, Serra della 278. Spinasanta 247. Spinazzola 178. S. Spirito 163. 170. Squillace 183. Squinzano 165. Stabia 137. Stagnicello 255. Stagnone, Lo 231. Stalitti 184. Stampaci, river 246. Stauros, the 358. S. Stefano 23. 271. — del Bosco 186. — di Camastra 260. Sternatia 165. Stilo 184. Stratioliki 359. Strato 84. Stromboli 308. Strongoli 183. Stufe, le 307. Suelli 321. JSuessa Aurunca 23. ^ulmo 168. Buni 318. Sunion^ Promont. 324. ^urrentum 139. Sutera, Pizzo di 248. Suvero, Capo 204. Hyharu 182. Symaethus 288. Syracuse 290. Achradina 291. Amphitheatre 297. Anapo, river 301. Aqueducts 292. Ara 297. Arethusa, Fountain 296. i Syracuse ; Belvedere 299. Buffalaro 299. Buonfardeci , Giardino 299. ’ Catacombs 300. Catenaccia 294. Cathedral 295. ’•'Cyane, Fountain 301. Due fratelli 302. ’•’Ear of Dionysius 297. Epipolae 291. •■■'Euryalus 298. S. Giovanni 297. 300. Grotta di Nettuno 302. Harbour, Great 291. — , Small 291. Hexapylon 294. Labdalon 291. 299. ’^'Latomia de’ Cappuccini 301. — Casale 300. — del Filosofo 299. " — del Paradiso 297. — Santa Venera 297. Leon 299. S. Imcia 300. Monte Crimiti 292. ’•’Museum 295. Neapolis 291. 298. Nympheeum 298. Olympieum 201. Ortygia 291. "’Palazzo Montalto 296. Pisma 301. Plemmyrion 293. Roman Baths 299. Santoro, Casa 296. Scala Greca 290. 299. Street of Tombs 298. Temenites 291. 298. Temple of Diana 296. — of Minerva 295. — of Zeus Olympius 301. Terracati 292. ’•’’•’Theatre, Greek 298. Thymbris 291. 299. Tomb of Archimedes 297. — of Timoleon 297. Tyche 291. Villa Landolina 301. Taburno, Monte 11. 172. Tacina, river 183. Taenaron, Cape 324. Tagliacozzo 16. Tamaro, river 160. Tanager 176. Taormina 271. Taranto 179. Taras 179. Tarentum 179. Tarracina 19. Tarsia 184. Tauromenium 271. Taviano 166. Tavogliere di Puglia 161. Tavola de’ Paladini, la 182. Taygetos, the 324. Teano 8. Teanum Sklicinum 8 . Teate Marrucirwrum 167. Tegianum 181. Telese 171. — , lago di 171. Telesia 171. Telluro, river 246. S. Teodoro, Grotta 260. Tenna 157. Teramo 158. S. Teresa 271. Termini 256. — di Castro 262. Termoli 160. Terra di Bari 179. — di Lavoro 10. — d’Otranto 179. Terracina 19. Terranova (Sard.) 319. Terranuova 182. 242. Thapsus 289. Tharros 317. Thermae Neronianae 95. — Himerenses 256. — Segestanae 226. — Selinuntinae 234. Therusia 307. Thurii 182. Thymbris 292. 299. Tiber, river 24. Tiberio, Villa di 143. Tifernus 160. Tindaro, Capo 261. Tinos 358. Tiriolo 185. Tirso 317. Tissa 276. Tolaro 2. Tonara 317. 321. Tordino, river 158. Torino di Sangro 159. Torralba 318. Torre dell’ Annunziata 114. — di Chiunzo 151. — deir Epi tafia 20. — di Gaveta 99. — di Gerace 184. — del Greco 114. INDEX. 375 Torre di Gri^'o 285. — de’ Legni 230. — del Marcello 290. — a Mare 182. — Masdea 185. — di Milo 182. — di Paola 19. — de’ Passeri 167. — S. Tecla 183. — tre Ponti 17. Torre cuso 171. Torrelifo 285. Tortore, river 160. Tortoreto 158. Totta 175. Tovere 154. Trat)ia 256. Traeis 183. Traetto 23. Traeus 1S3. Traina, Foresta di 278. Tramonti, Val 151. Trani 163. Trapani 229. Trasacco 16. Trebisacci 182. Trecchina, river 181. Tre Fontane, Fondaco 255. Tre Fratelli 138. Trejenta 321. Trelo Vuni 324. Tremestieri 271. Tremiti-Islands, the 160. Trento 160. Trepuzzi 165. Trerus 2. Tres Tabernae 17, Tricase 166. Trigno, river 160. Trinita della Cava 146. Trinitapoli 162. Trinius 160. Tr local a 235. Trionto, river 183. Tripi, Pizzo di 263. Tritoli, Stufe di 95. Trogilus 290. Troina 252. Tronto, river 158. Tropea 186. 204. Truentns 158. Tulo 322. Tumolo, Capo 152. Tunis 221. Tuoro grande 143. Turano, river 172. Turco Vuni 329. Turris Lybissonis 320. Tusa 260. Tusciano, river 149. Tyndaris 261. Ufente, river 19. Uffita, river 13. Uggento 166. Uras 317. TJstica 219. Uxentum 166. Valetta, la 303. Valguarnera 304. Vallalunga 250. Valle 172. Valmontone 2. Vandra, river 168. Vandria 168. Vasto 159. Vaticano, Capo 204. Velino, river 172. — , Monte 15. Velletri 2. 17. Venafro 169. Venafrum 169. Venere , 3Ionte 272. 289. Venosa 178. Ventotene 23. Venusia 178. Verbicaro 203. Vergine, Monte 12. 32. 308. Veroli 3. Verulae 3. Vervece, La 141. Veserus^ Mons 106. Vespasia 173. Vesuvius, Mount 105. Vettica maggiore 155. — niinore 154. — , Val 156. Via Appia 16. — Camp ana 92. — Cumana 92. Via llelora 246. — Herculea 93. — Latina 2. 5. — Puteolana 92. — Salara 173. Vibinum 169. Vibo Valentia 186. Vicari 250. Vico 138. Vico Equense 138. Vicus Aequensis 138. Vietri 147. Vietri di Potenza 176. Villafrati 249. Villa S. Giovanni 188. Villarosa 250. Villasmunda 289. Vinius 5. Vita 226. S. Vito 164. S. Vito Chietino 159. S. Vittore 8. Vittoria 243. Vittorie, Torre delle 269. S. Vittorino 175. Vitulano 171. Vivara 100. Volturno, river 172. Vomano, river 158. Vomanus 158. Vomero 83. Vostitza 326. Vulcanello 307. Vulcania 307. Vulcano 307. Vulture, Monte 177. 'X.iphonia 289. Xitta, La 231. ZatFarana, Promont 205. Zambrone, Capo 204. Zancle 206. Zannone 23. Zante 326. Zapulla, Fiumara 260. Zea 359. Zembarotta 220. I Zembra 220. I Zirreto, Monte 272. Zisa, la 216. J Zollino 165. Leipzig : Printed by Breitkopf & Hartel. 1 > ' ' I »