634.016 
 
 H32 
 
 cop.3
 

 
 uccessful 
 praying 
 
 A text book on spraying 
 for the tfrower OT Fruit 
 
 Price $1.OO 
 
 Published by 
 
 Horticultural Department 
 Hayes Pump C& Planter Company 
 
 Galva, Illinois
 
 Copyright 1918
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 I Page 
 
 The Importance of Spraying - 9-17 
 
 II 
 Fighting Pests and Diseases - 18-37 
 
 III 
 
 Insects and Their Control - 38-67 
 
 IV 
 
 Diseases and Their Control - 68-99 
 
 V 
 
 Spraying About the Farm - 100-111 
 
 VI 
 
 How to Spray Citrus Trees - 112-116 
 
 VII 
 Shade Tree Spraying - - - 125-127
 
 uccessful 
 praying 
 
 And the 
 
 Who Wrote It
 
 MR. E. H. FAVOR 
 
 Scientific Horticulturist
 
 
 C0p2> 
 
 THE importance of spraying its vast pos- 
 sibilities and profits has no more tireless 
 booster than Mr. E. H. Favor, author of 
 this manual. 
 
 From earliest boyhood Mr. Favor has been 
 delving in the mysteries of plant and insect life. 
 He is today, we believe, one of America's lead- 
 ing authorities on fruit growing and on the life 
 and habits of pests and diseases that prey upon 
 the tree, the foliage, the tender buds and the 
 fruit itself. 
 
 Mr. Favor, due to his long experience and 
 the results of his scientific research, has for 
 many years been one of the nation's foremost 
 champions of thorough spraying. As editor 
 of a leading fruit paper he preached the gospel 
 of spraying to growers everywhere. As an as- 
 sociate with two state experiment stations 
 further opportunity was given him. 
 
 Since joining the Horticultural Department 
 of the Hayes Pump & Planter Co., Mr. Favor 
 has turned his priceless experience into more 
 practical channels. 
 
 One evidence is this Successful Spraying 
 Guide which is in our estimation a most 
 valuable book for any grower to own. It shows 
 how spraying will exterminate the vicious 
 pests and diseases which ravage our orchards, 
 groves and gardens. It tells plainly what these 
 pests and diseases are, when and where they 
 flourish and how to gain control over them. 
 It tells everything needed by the serious
 
 minded grower to protect his crop and increase 
 his profits. 
 
 Into this book Mr. Favor has injected no 
 romance. It is too severely practical. Yet it 
 represents a life work and will be the means 
 of saving thousands and thousands of dollars 
 for growers. 
 
 Mr. Favor's position with us is one of help- 
 fulness. He is championing the great fight 
 against the bugs and insects and diseases 
 which rob our gardens and groves of millions 
 of dollars in fruit each year. 
 
 Use this book. Follow its advice. If there 
 is anything further you wish to know, "Ask 
 Mr. Favor." He is always glad to give any 
 earnest man the benefit of his experience and 
 study. 
 
 HAYES PUMP & PLANTER CO. 
 Galva, Illinois
 
 IIIIIIIIIIIIIIBIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIiHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIBIIIIlii 
 
 SPRAYING 
 
 How and When to Spray" 
 What to Use Where to Obtain 
 
 iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 The Importance of Spraying 
 
 is the most important single operation 
 connected with the growing of fruit. Practical 
 fruit growers everywhere are agreed on that 
 point, and all experiment stations are emphatic in their 
 approval. Spraying is not only the most important single 
 operation connected with the growing of fruit, but a 
 highly necessary operation in the garden, flower bed, 
 greenhouse, poultry yard, dairy or farm wherever vermin 
 must be exterminated and sanitary conditions main- 
 tained. Because of the greater ease and smoothness with 
 which all liquids may be applied, it is possible to do with 
 a sprayer such laborious work as whitewashing and cold 
 water painting. 
 
 Spraying is a labor saving, profit making operation 
 wherever it can be used. But it is in the orchard that 
 spraying has been of greater service and for which the 
 most efficient machines are devised. 
 
 In the orchard, spraying is the most necessary of all 
 operations. Every conceivable kind of good care may be 
 given to fruit trees, but without thorough and timely 
 spraying, to prevent the ravages of insects and diseases, 
 the resulting fruit crop will be bad, and the health of
 
 [ 10 ] The Importance of Spraying 
 
 the tree is certain to decline. Spraying is a preventive 
 of insect pests and fungous diseases and not a cure for 
 them after they have become established. 
 
 Spraying is necessary for the realization of the great- 
 est pleasure and profit from the fruit that is grown. A 
 well sprayed orchard, meaning a well protected orchard, 
 is a continual delight, as well as a profit-maker for the 
 owner. And the realization of this pleasure and profit is 
 not limited to the person who grows fruit on a large scale, 
 but also to the man who has but a single fruit tree in his 
 back yard. 
 
 Spraying is insurance. It gives protection. You in- 
 sure your residence against fire and tornado. By spray- 
 ing you just as certainly insure your crops against insects 
 and diseases. Fruit growers take bigger chances each 
 year with insects and diseases in their orchards than they 
 do with fire in their buildings. 
 
 The Home Orchard 
 
 Everyone who has one or more fruit trees should 
 spray and enjoy to the utmost, the genuine pleasure and 
 profit that comes from the production of fruit free from 
 insects and diseases. This is not simply good advice. It 
 is common sense. For example, one of our customers 
 right here in Galva, 111., has two cherry trees in his back 
 yard. These trees were planted a good many years ago, 
 but they had served no other purpose than as supports 
 for the clothesline, and to supply shade for the ham- 
 mock on hot summer afternoons. As fruit producers 
 they were a delusion. Their heavy bower of spring- 
 time beauty furnished but small crops of fruit that was 
 always wormy and worthless. Last year these trees 
 were sprayed, and for the first time in their lives, their 
 snowy white blossoms changed into luscious red, sweet 
 cherries. 
 
 The owner, quite naturally, was proud of his achieve- 
 ment in aiding his trees to produce such an excellent
 
 The Importance of Spraying [ 11 ] 
 
 crop of cherries, and did not fail to take all of his friends 
 and neighbors out to see the loads of fine cherries. The 
 home of this citizen changed from a home in which 
 cherries were bought from the grocery store, into a home 
 where the larder was stocked with an abundance of ele- 
 gant, home-grown cherries picked at the right degree of 
 ripeness and preserved at once. It changed from a 
 home where the cherry trees in the back yard were 
 simply trees, into a home where they became an object 
 of beauty, admiration and distinct utility. All of this 
 came about just because the trees were sprayed, and the 
 fruit given a chance to reach full maturity. 
 
 A few trees in the home yard are just as well worth 
 taking care of as is a large commercial orchard. To 
 show the actual dollars and cents value of taking care 
 of home orchards, the Extension Department of the Uni- 
 versity of Missouri, in 1917, arranged a series of demon- 
 strations in ten Missouri counties. These ten orchards 
 totalled 111-5 acres, or an average of slightly more than 
 one acre each, and with fifty trees to an acre. At the 
 close of the season after the fruit had all been picked and 
 measured, and after having deducted the cost of the 
 spraying chemicals and labor, it was found that the cash 
 value of the fruit produced averaged just $261.21 per 
 acre. None of these orchards had ever been sprayed 
 before 1917 and none of them had been profitable in any 
 way. 
 
 How many home orchards are producing crops to 
 the value of $200.00 an acre? More would be doing so 
 if they were sprayed. 
 
 The Commercial Orchard 
 
 It is in the large commercial orchards that spraying 
 has made its greatest headway and where it has its 
 greater usefulness. Numberless instances might be cited 
 where almost unbelievable profits have come from 
 orchards that are regularly and systematically sprayed.
 
 [ 12 ] The Importance of Spraying 
 
 Hundreds of orchards where the crop values year after 
 year range from $100 to $500 an acre after deducting all 
 operating costs, are on record. In every state, the well 
 sprayed orchards are paying big profits, bigger in fact, 
 than is obtainable from any other crop produced on large 
 acreages of land. In fact, government reports show that 
 the average income per acre for all fruit land in the U. S. 
 amounts to $110 while the average income per acre for all 
 grain lands amounts to $13. 
 
 Since only a small portion of the commercial orchards 
 are sprayed, what would the record be if all of them were 
 thoroughly sprayed? 
 
 The causes for low crop yields are insects and dis- 
 ease. True enough, unseasonable frosts often cause im- 
 mense losses, but so far as the national yield is con- 
 cerned, frost plays but a small part as compared to in- 
 sects and disease, since the latter are everywhere, while 
 frost is purely local. No fruit grower can afford to forego 
 the spraying of his orchard for even a single season. It 
 is distinctly a money loss to do so, and the health and 
 vigor of the trees is sacrificed as well. 
 
 Spraying the Vegetable Garden 
 
 Neither can spraying be dispensed with in the vege- 
 table garden, as vegetables are infested with bugs and 
 diseases, just as well as the fruit trees, and spraying 
 vegetable crops for the control of these diseases gives 
 protection to the crops. In some instances spraying 
 actually increases the crop yields in almost as large a 
 proportion as does a fertilizer to the soil. The applica- 
 tion of bordeaux mixture to potato crops materially in- 
 creases the yield whether insects or diseases are present 
 or not. The Vermont Experiment Station has found that 
 during a 20-year period, which involved all possible sea- 
 sonal variations, an average gain of 105 bushels of pota- 
 toes resulted from spraying with bordeaux mixture. 
 This was a gain of 64 per cent for the sprayed potatoes 
 as compared to the unsprayed.
 
 The Importance of Spraying [ 13 ] 
 
 Spraying should no more be neglected in the vegetable 
 garden than it is in the orchard, and spraying equipment 
 and materials of adequate size and quantity should be 
 provided for combating the pests of the garden, just as 
 well as in the largest and best fruit farms. In the great 
 majority of cases, and particularly in the home garden, 
 this will not require the use of large and expensive ma- 
 chines, but rather the small wheelbarrow, knapsack and 
 bucket pumps that may easily be pushed or carried from 
 one place to another. 
 
 The Purpose of Spraying 
 
 Spraying is done for the purpose of getting more sat- 
 isfaction and profit from the crops, t>y controlling the 
 insect and fungous pests that would otherwise damage 
 and reduce the yield. Spraying enables the fruit grower 
 to make more money, as the sprayed crops are not only 
 of better quality and sell for more money, but there is 
 actually a larger quantity of merchantable fruit. It pays 
 to spray. It pays in dollars and cents, and it pays in 
 satisfaction. Spraying is insurance against crop losses. 
 
 Orchards that are regularly and systematically 
 sprayed, seldom have crop losses, unless it is from such 
 things as storms or climatic conditions. This is for the 
 reason that all parts of the tree can work to better advan- 
 tage. A healthy tree, like a healthy man, can do more 
 work and harder work than can one that is half starved. 
 An unsprayed tree is a starved tree, not because there 
 may be insufficient fertility in the soil, but because the 
 leaves of an unsprayed tree cannot function as they 
 should. 
 
 The Leaves Need Protection 
 
 The leaves of a tree are an extremely important part 
 of the plant. It is within the leaves that the sugar and 
 starch is manufactured that go to make fruit, fruit buds, 
 branches, trunk and roots. Therefore, the more vigor- 
 ous the leaves, the more work they can do, and the more
 
 [ 14 ] The Importance of Spraying 
 
 resistant the tree can become against the ravages of pests 
 of every sort and description. 
 
 Spraying assures increased profits, not only in the 
 orchard, but in the garden, and even on the farm. Why? 
 Because it enables the crop to mature to utmost perfec- 
 tion, with the result that higher prices will be received 
 as well as a larger quantity produced for market. In 
 other words, spraying puts the orchard or garden on a 
 profitable basis so that it produces satisfaction as well 
 as profit. The net profits that result from sprayed or- 
 chards will run right around $150 an acre per year as an 
 average for a long period of years. 
 
 But where will you find an unsprayed orchard that 
 will produce any profit at all? It does not exist. 
 
 Sprayed trees live longer than unsprayed ones, as the 
 spraying controls the insects and diseases that would 
 otherwise lessen their vitality. This better health enables 
 the tree to make more fruit buds, and to a large degree 
 overcomes the habit of producing a very large crop one 
 year, with nothing the next. 
 
 Spraying improves the appearance of the fruit. It 
 prevents the growth of fungous diseases which mar the 
 skin of the fruit, and it kills the insects which puncture 
 or eat and otherwise disfigure it. Good looking fruit 
 sells better than fruit that is lopsided, worm eaten or 
 disfigured through the growth of fungous diseases. This 
 results in the production of what is popularly termed 
 "quality" fruit, as it has better size, and finish. The 
 consumer will eat quality fruit with great relish. He is 
 much more willing to buy such fruit in the first place, and 
 will come back for more of the same kind. 
 
 Trade Marked Fruit Is Sprayed 
 
 It is this factor which is causing fruit growers in 
 some localities to pack their fruit under a trade-marked 
 brand, and whenever you see such fruit, you can depend 
 upon it that that fruit has been carefully and systemati-
 
 The Importance of Spraying [ 15 ] 
 
 cally sprayed, otherwise it would be unfit to market in 
 any form. The trade-mark would have no commercial 
 value whatever, if it stood for a mixed lot of fruit, some 
 of which was good and much of which was bad. 
 
 It is profit that the fruit grower wants from his 
 orchard. It is the profit that he gets from the sale of his 
 fruit that enables him to live, so the more profit he can 
 get from his orchard, the more money he has to spend 
 on the comforts of life. The profits from the orchard 
 are increased when the trees are sprayed, and the more 
 intelligence, common sense and efficient work that is put 
 in the spraying of the orchard, the bigger will be the 
 profits. There is such a thing as simply going through 
 the motion of spraying, or in making the application at 
 the wrong time. But such cannot be called good spray- 
 ing. It is only a waste of material and does nothing 
 toward the betterment of the crop, increasing the vigoi 
 of the trees or of making more money from the orchard. 
 
 How to Get Results From Spraying 
 
 There are three requisites for good spraying. These 
 are (1) right materials, (2) applied at the right time, 
 (3) and applied in the right way. While certain more or 
 less definite rules are prescribed for spraying the orchard, 
 the more the fruit grower knows about the habits of the 
 insects or diseases he is spraying for, the effects of the 
 spraying material he is using, and the thoroughness with 
 which the materials are applied, the better the results 
 he can expect from his labors. At another place in this 
 little book we give brief descriptions of some of the 
 commonest fruit and garden pests and means of con- 
 trolling them, as well as a few comments about the mate- 
 rials to be used. 
 
 But no matter what material is used, or when it is 
 used, one big fact should stand out prominently in the 
 mind of the spray man, and that is to apply it thoroughly. 
 
 Spraying done by putting a little of the mixture here 
 and there on the tree is worse than useless. Don't spray
 
 [ 16 ] The Importance of Spraying 
 
 at all unless you are willing to do it right. Wet every 
 leaf, twig and fruit on the tree, and wet both sides of 
 them. Wet the foliage on the topmost branches just as 
 thoroughly and as evenly as you do the part of the tree 
 that is easiest for you to reach. Wet the foliage on the 
 inside of the tree, and on the lowermost branches, and 
 do so with care. 
 
 There is a tendency for many spray men to omit wet- 
 ting the uppermost branches, and those that are on the 
 inside of large trees. This is especially true late in the day 
 when their arms begin to tire and they get a cramp in 
 the back of their neck. But the best fruit is on the top- 
 most branches, and a large part of the merchantable crop 
 is on the inner branches where there is a tendency for 
 the spray man to believe the spray will drift in sufficiently 
 to cover it. Thorough spraying means thoroughly wet- 
 ting every part of the tree, and of doing so with the least 
 possible amount of spray material. 
 
 The Fruit-Fog Way 
 
 The first requirement for thorough spraying is an 
 efficient sprayer. This should be a machine that will pro- 
 duce as high pressure as is possible for its size and 
 capacity. All of Hayes FRUIT-FOG Sprayers, size for 
 size, produce higher pressure than any other make. This 
 high pressure is essential to thorough spraying, since it 
 produces a more finely divided mist than does low pres- 
 sure. The normal working pressure for Hayes FRUIT- 
 FOG power sprayers is 300 pounds. At this pressure the 
 spray is forced through the nozzle in such a manner that 
 it breaks immediately into a very finely divided mist, 
 almost as fine as fog hence the name FRUIT-FOG. 
 
 Such spray is the ideal, as it floats and filters into all 
 of the cracks and crevices and makes it possible to actu- 
 ally wet the foliage completely without putting on so 
 much spray as to drench the leaves. 
 
 Drenching should always be avoided. It is a waste of 
 expensive chemicals to apply the spray so heavily that
 
 The Importance of Spraying [ 17 ] 
 
 the liquid will drip off. It also causes damage because 
 of the tendency of the spray to collect along the edges of 
 the leaf in a rather large drop, where it brings about an 
 injurious action commonly called "spray burn." Many 
 orchardists have suffered considerable damage to their 
 trees from this spray burn, as leaves which are badly in- 
 jured drop prematurely. When the spray is applied the 
 FRUIT-FOG way there is little or no possibility for 
 spray burning to occur, and there is a minimum of loss 
 from dripping. 
 
 High pressure spraying, "fruit-fogging," makes it pos- 
 sible to spray the orchard more thoroughly and to do it 
 more quickly than when the spraying is done at low pres- 
 sure.
 
 [ 18 ] Fighting Pests and Diseases 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 Fighting Pests and Diseases 
 
 HE money that is made out of growing fruit of 
 any kind comes as a result of growing fruit of the 
 utmost perfection. The more nearly perfect the 
 fruit is the more money it will bring on the market. And 
 because of this it behooves the fruit grower to exercise 
 the greatest amount of care to grow good fruit. This 
 means that he must control the pests which would other- 
 wise disfigure the fruit as well as cause much of it to 
 drop from the tree before reaching maturity. 
 
 There are two distinct groups of pests which cause 
 injury to the fruit and vegetables and which may be con- 
 trolled by spraying. The first group is insects, the sec- 
 ond group is fungous diseases. Of the insects, or as they 
 are more popularly called "bugs," there are again two 
 distinct kinds or classes, (1) those which suck the juices 
 of the plant in much the same way as a mosquito sucks 
 blood, and (2) those which chew their food, as a rabbit 
 or horse chews grass. These two classes of insects 
 should be clearly differentiated in the minds of all as 
 different methods of combating each class must be used. 
 
 There is a third group of orchard and garden pests, 
 but which cannot readily be controlled by spraying. 
 This group includes those insects which bore into the 
 wood of the tree or plant and which, on that account 
 are out of reach of any spray that might be applied. It 
 also includes those diseases which are caused by bac- 
 teria, and which flourish entirely within the bark or skin 
 of the plant, where they also are out of reach of any 
 spray that might be applied. Further consideration of 
 each of these are taken up under their appropriate heads. 
 
 Sucking Insects 
 
 Of the sucking insects the orchardist, vineyardist, 
 vegetable grower and florist suffers the greatest damage 
 from the aphis, or "plant lice," as they are popularly
 
 Fighting Pests and Diseases [ 19 ] 
 
 called. There are also the several different scale insects, 
 the red bug, thrips and various other kinds of insects 
 which suck the sap of plants and which are described in 
 greater detail elsewhere in this book. 
 
 Since these insects obtain their food by inserting their 
 beaks into the bark or leaf and sucking the sap of the 
 plant, it is evident that the ordinary spraying poisons are 
 of little avail. The insect can stick its beak through a 
 thick layer of the poison and draw its food without the 
 least inconvenience or liability to injury. On that ac- 
 count, for the control of sucking insects, it is necessary 
 to actually wet the bodies of the insects with some sub- 
 stance that will irritate or choke the insect. Such insec- 
 ticides are called "contact insecticides," since they kill 
 by coming in contact with the insect. Of these materials 
 there are several, such as lime-sulphur, kerosene and 
 paraffin emulsion; and tobacco preparations, such as 
 Black Leaf 40, Nikoteen, Aphine, etc., soluble oils and 
 certain commercial preparations known only by their 
 trade names. 
 
 Fungous Diseases 
 
 Exceedingly heavy losses every year are occasioned 
 to all fruit and vegetable growers who do not spray to 
 control fungous diseases. These diseases are caused by 
 parasitic plants, called "fungi." Certain forms of fungi 
 are familiar to all, in the form of moulds and mushrooms. 
 But the common moulds and mushrooms are not para- 
 sitic, that is, they do not live upon living plants, and con- 
 sequently are not harmful to our growing crops. But 
 there are countless different kinds of these fungi which 
 thrive upon living plants and cause such familiar dis- 
 eases as apple scab, bitter rot, blotch ; peach scab, brown 
 rot and leaf curl ; grape powdery and downy mildews, and 
 many different kinds of rots and blights among vege- 
 tables. 
 
 But it has been found through scientific investigation 
 that the great majority of the troublesome diseases are
 
 [20] Fighting Pests and Diseases 
 
 more or less easily controlled by spraying the plants 
 before the diseases appear with substances commonly 
 called "fungicides." Of these the most extensively used 
 are bordeaux mixture, lime-sulphur with arsenate of lead, 
 ammoniacal copper carbonate, and certain commercial 
 mixtures that are known under trade names. 
 
 Bacterial Diseases 
 
 There are some diseases of plants, such as the fire 
 blight or twig blight of fruit trees, that cannot be con- 
 trolled by spraying, since the disease is caused by bac- 
 teria which work entirely within the tissue of the plant. 
 The only remedy in such cases is to cut out the infected 
 part of the plant and burn it. Careful disinfection of the 
 tool with which the cutting is done should be observed 
 in order that the germs causing the disease may not be 
 carried to the next branch that is to be removed. Cor- 
 rosive sublimate, made up at the rate of one part to 1,000 
 parts of water, is a very satisfactory disinfectant. This 
 material is deadly poison and should be used with care. 
 
 Insecticides for Chewing Insects 
 
 Spray materials are of two distinct kinds or classes: 
 (1) those used for insect control and (2) those used for 
 the control of fungous diseases. Of the first class there 
 are two groups : (a) those used for the control of chew- 
 ing insects, such as codling moth, canker worm, etc., and 
 (b) those used for the control of sucking insects, like 
 the plant lice and scale insects. Of the fungicides, there 
 are many kinds, but all have the same function, the con- 
 trol of fungous diseases such as scab, rots, mildews, etc. 
 
 Fumigation is resorted to in some instances for pro- 
 tection against insects, especially on nursery stock and 
 on citrus trees in California. Fumigants will not be 
 treated in this book. 
 
 While there are a number of different poisons that 
 might be used for the control of chewing insects, the 
 one that is most commonly used by fruit and vegetable
 
 BLACK KNOT 
 ON PLUK 
 
 f-.f 
 
 APPLE 
 BLOTCH 
 CANKERS 
 
 ANTHRACN 
 
 ON 
 RASPBERRY* 
 
 [ Page 21 ]
 
 CALYX SPRAY 
 FOR CODDLIN 
 MOTH 
 
 THE RIGHT TIME 
 TO SPRAY 
 
 CLUSTER BUD OR. 
 PINK SPRAY FOR. ^2 
 SCAB 
 
 [ Page 22 ]
 
 APPLES 
 INJURED 
 BY APHIS 
 
 CODLING 
 MOTH 
 COCOONS 
 
 SNOW- BALL 
 LEAVES CURLED 
 BY APHIS 
 
 [ Page 23 ]
 
 SAN JOSE SCALE (Enlarged) 
 
 SCURFY SCALE (Enlarged) 
 
 OYSTER SHELL SCALE (Enlarged) 
 
 [ Page 24 ]
 
 Fighting Pests and Diseases [25] 
 
 growers is arsenate of lead. This is now on the market 
 in the form of a white, dry powder and also as a white 
 paste that has much the same appearance as white lead 
 paint. Arsenate of lead may be mixed with lime-sulphur 
 or with bordeaux mixture and applied at the same time. 
 But arsenate of lead should not be mixed with any of 
 the oil sprays. 
 
 In spraying, arsenate of lead is mixed with water or 
 lime-sulphur or bordeaux mixture at the rate of from 
 2 to 4 pounds of paste to 50 gallons of spray solution. 
 Just half the quantity is required when the powdered 
 arsenate of lead is used. For small quantities of spray, 
 use \Y 2 level teaspoonfuls of powdered, or 2 of paste, 
 to 1 gallon of water. 
 
 Calcium arsenate (arsenate of lime) : This is a new 
 poison, which on account of being cheaper than arsenate 
 of lead is being experimented with as a substitute. While 
 it has given satisfactory results in the control of chew- 
 ing insects, it has caused too much injury to the foliage 
 of the plants to which it has been applied to be wholly 
 satisfactory. It should be used only upon the approval 
 or direction of your state experiment station. 
 
 Paris green : The old standard insecticide for orchard 
 and potato spraying, but rapidly going out of use because 
 of the injury to the foliage which results from its use 
 and because it cannot be combined with dilute lime- 
 sulphur or self-boiled lime-sulphur. It is used at the 
 rate of 4 ounces to 50 gallons of water or bordeaux mix- 
 ture. 
 
 Insecticides for Sucking Insects 
 
 The principal insecticide for sucking insects is lime- 
 sulphur. This is obtainable on the market in concen- 
 trated form, both as a liquid and as a powder, and for 
 use in the orchard needs only to be diluted with the 
 proper quantity of water. Lime-sulphur may also be 
 made up at home, and under some conditions this is a
 
 [ 26 ] Fighting Pests and Diseases 
 
 more economical way than to buy the commercial mate- 
 rial. If you desire to make your own lime-sulphur, you 
 will make it best if you will follow the directions that 
 are prescribed by your own state experiment station, as 
 they have devised a formula that will enable you to make 
 use of the lime that is on the market in your own state. 
 With but slight variations in the quantities of materials, 
 the various formulas for lime-sulphur are similar to the 
 following, which will make a concentrated solution that 
 must be diluted with water before it may be used : 
 
 CONCENTRATED LIME-SULPHUR 
 
 50 pounds quick lime, 
 100 pounds sulphur, 
 50 gallons water. 
 
 Use a good grade of high calcium quick lime. Hy- 
 drated lime may also be used, but it should be a high 
 calcium lime, and at least 20 per cent more should be 
 used than in the case of quick lime. A cauldron or other 
 cooking vessel of sufficient size to hold the entire quan- 
 tity of liquid is necessary, and this should be placed 
 where a fire can be built under it so as to boil the solu- 
 tion. Place the required quantity of water in the cook- 
 ing vessel, and with a stick measure the exact height of 
 the water, in order that additional water may be added 
 to make up for that which is lost through evaporation. 
 Bring the water to a boil; add the lime and then the 
 sulphur. Stir vigorously until the lime has slaked, and 
 stir more or less continuously throughout the boiling 
 period of 50 to 60 minutes. Restore the water lost by 
 evaporation, using boiling water if possible. When the 
 cooking has finished, draw off the liquid into a tight 
 barrel for storage, running it into the barrel through a 
 30-mesh strainer. Lime sulphur made in this manner 
 will have a density of about 24 to 28 degrees, and for use 
 in the orchard should be diluted according to the dilution 
 table.
 
 Fighting Pests and Diseases [ 27 ] 
 
 Diluting Lime- Sulphur 
 
 To obtain proper dilution a special instrument called 
 a "hydrometer" is absolutely necessary. Such an in- 
 strument may be obtained from druggists or from most 
 of the dealers in spray materials, or from certain adver- 
 tisers in fruit publications. Usually they cost about $1.00, 
 and are well worth the money. By all means get a 
 hydrometer and dilute your lime-sulphur according to it. 
 The following table gives the necessary quantities of 
 water for a given quantity of lime-sulphur of various 
 strengths : 
 
 DILUTION TABLE FOR LIME-SULPHUR 
 
 No. gals, lime-sulphur to make 50 gals, spray solution. 
 
 Degrees 
 
 Specific 
 
 Summer 
 
 Winter 
 
 Beaume 
 
 gravity 
 
 strength 
 
 strength 
 
 36 
 
 1.330 
 
 W 
 
 554 
 
 35 
 
 1,318 
 
 
 53/4 
 
 34 
 
 1.306 
 
 154 
 
 6 
 
 33 
 
 1.295 
 
 IX 
 
 654 
 
 32 
 
 1.283 
 
 
 6^2 
 
 31 
 
 1.272 
 
 \y z 
 
 634 
 
 30 
 
 1.261 
 
 134 
 
 7 
 
 29 
 
 1.250 
 
 134 
 
 7/4 
 
 28 
 
 1.239 
 
 
 7/4 
 
 27 
 
 1.229 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 26 
 
 1.218 
 
 2 
 
 854 
 
 25 
 
 1.208 
 
 2 
 
 83/4 
 
 24 
 
 1.198 
 
 2/4 
 
 9/4 
 
 23 
 
 1.188 
 
 VA 
 
 93/4 
 
 22 
 
 1.179 
 
 VA 
 
 
 21 
 
 1.169 
 
 
 11 
 
 20 
 
 1.160 
 
 214 
 
 125^ 
 
 Lime-sulphur is one of the most important of the 
 present day spray materials, as it serves both as an in- 
 secticide for the control of San Jose scale and other scale 
 insects, and as a fungicide, especially when combined 
 with lead arsenate. 
 
 When only small quantities of lime-sulphur are re- 
 quired use 1 pint of commercial lime-sulphur to 1 gallon
 
 [ 28 ] Fighting Pests and Diseases 
 
 of water for dormant spraying or ^2 cup to 1 gallon of 
 water for summer applications. 
 
 Nicotine or Tobacco Extract 
 
 This is obtainable on the market under trade names 
 such as Black Leaf 40, Nikoteen, Aphine, etc. Such ma- 
 terials are to be preferred to a home-made extract, as 
 the strength is always uniform. Such commercial nico- 
 tine preparations as Black Leaf 40 contain 40 per cent 
 of nicotine sulphate, and for use in controlling such suck- 
 ing insects as apple aphis, use 54 P mt Black Leaf 40 
 with 100 gallons of water in which 3 to 5 pounds of soap 
 have been dissolved. Nicotine sulphate may be added to 
 other spray materials, such as lime-sulphur and arsenate 
 of lead, but when this combination is made, the soap 
 should be omitted. It is a distinct advantage to mix the 
 nicotine sulphate with lime-sulphur and arsenate of lead 
 for certain applications, as the resulting combination 
 serves to control both sucking and chewing insects and 
 fungi. 
 
 Kerosene Emulsion 
 
 Kerosene 2 gallons 
 
 Fish-oil soap y 2 pound 
 
 Soft water 1 gallon 
 
 Dissolve the soap in a gallon of boiling water. Re- 
 move the vessel from the stove and add the kerosene, 
 then stir or churn the mixture vigorously for several 
 minutes until it has formed a creamy mass. The best 
 way to do this is by means of a small spray pump, pump- 
 ing the mixture back into itself. This mixture should 
 not be used when there is the least separation of oil, as 
 injury is quite certain to result. When the mixture is 
 properly made, it gives fairly satisfactory results against 
 plant lice when one gallon of the mixture is added to P 
 gallons of water. Nicotine sulphate is a better material 
 than kerosene emulsion, as it is more effective and musfe 
 less liable to cause injury.
 
 Fighting Pests and Diseases [29] 
 
 For small quantities, dissolve a 1-inch cube of laun- 
 dry soap in a half pint of boiling water. Add 1 pint of 
 kerosene and shake in a 2-quart fruit jar until thoroughly 
 mixed. This is sufficient for 3 gallons of spray ready for 
 use. 
 
 Carbolic Acid Emulsion 
 
 Fish-oil soap 15 pounds 
 
 Crude carbolic acid 1 pint 
 
 Water 100 gallons 
 
 Dissolve the soap in a small quantity of water, add 
 the carbolic acid in small quantities at a time, meanwhile 
 stirring vigorously. When mixed this material is ready 
 for use, and is very efficient for the control of aphis on 
 fruit trees. Slight, but unimportant injury to the apple 
 foliage may result from the use of this mixture. 
 
 Soap 
 
 Home-made soap, good laundry soap and whale oil or 
 fish oil soaps are used in combating plant lice, and under 
 many conditions are quite effective. The soap is dis- 
 solved in hot water at the rate of 1 pound of soap to each 
 5 or 10 gallons of water. This strength is effective against 
 soft bodied insects. 
 
 Poisoned Bran Mash 
 
 Mix one ounce of paris green with two pounds of 
 wheat bran ; then mix enough syrup with water to make 
 a thin sweet liquid and add enough to the bran to make 
 a thick paste. Sprinkle about the plants to be protected 
 from cutworms, grasshoppers, etc. 
 
 Soluble Oils 
 
 On the market there are certain preparations of oils 
 or petroleum that are intended especially for the control 
 of insects on citrus fruits and of scale insects on apples, 
 peaches, pears, etc. They are mixed with water for use, 
 and are easily applied and effective for their purpose. 
 These soluble oil sprays have a distinct advantage over 
 lime-sulphur in that they spread further and will "creep"
 
 [ 30 ] Fighting Pests and Diseases 
 
 into cracks and crevices that are not easily penetrated by 
 lime-sulphur. In addition the soluble oil sprays are espe- 
 cially effective in destroying the eggs of the fruit tree 
 leaf-roller. On deciduous fruits, soluble oil sprays should 
 be used only on dormant trees when there is no danger of 
 freezing. 
 
 Fungicides 
 
 Bordeaux mixture and lime-sulphur are the most im- 
 portant fungicides and are used far more extensively than 
 all of the others. But of these other fungicides, the most 
 important are self-boiled lime-sulphur, ammoniacal cop- 
 per carbonate, finely ground sulphur, corrosive sublimate 
 and formaldehyde. 
 
 Bordeaux Mixture 
 
 Modern spraying had its origin through the acci- 
 dental discovery of the mixture now known as "Bor- 
 deaux." This is made by mixing dilute solution of cop- 
 per sulphate (bluestone) with dilute milk of lime. The 
 proportions vary all the way from 3 pounds of copper sul- 
 phate and 3 pounds of lime to 50 gallons of water, up to 
 6 or 8 pounds of the chemicals to 50 gallons of water. 
 In referring to the different proportions, it has become 
 customary to speak of Bordeaux as being made accord- 
 ing to the 3-3-50 formula, 4-4-50 formula or 4-6-50, ac- 
 cording to whether 3, 4 or 6 pounds of the chemicals are 
 mixed with 50 gallons of water. When bordeaux is 
 spoken of in this manner, the first figure refers to the 
 quantity of copper sulphate, the second figure to the 
 quantity of lime and the third figure to the quantity of 
 water. 
 
 To make bordeaux mixture, it is most convenient to 
 make up a stock solution of copper sulphate, by dissolv- 
 ing the crystals in water at the rate of 1 pound to 1 gal- 
 lon. This is most quickly done by suspending the crys- 
 tals in a sack just beneath the surface of the water. If 
 they are dropped to the bottom of the vessel they will 
 dissolve much less rapidly.
 
 Fighting Pests and Diseases [ 31 ] 
 
 A stock mixture of lime should be made up in a 
 similar manner, and then a measure of the one may be 
 mixed with a measure of the other for the necessary 
 quantity of water. Measuring the liquid in this manner 
 is more rapid than when each must be weighed. Hy- 
 drated lime may be used instead of quick lime, but a 
 larger quantity should be used to make allowance for 
 the water contained in the hydrated lime. But which- 
 ever is used, be sure that it is a high calcium lime. Air- 
 slaked lime should never be used. 
 
 In preparing bordeaux mixture for spraying, dilute 
 the necessary quantities of each stock solution with half 
 of the volume of water needed to fill the tank, and then 
 run these two dilute mixtures together at the same time 
 into the spray tank. This necessitates the use of two 
 tanks, each of which is capable of holding at least one- 
 half of the volume of the spray tank. 
 
 Another method is to fill the spray tank three-fourths 
 full of water, pour in the amount of copper sulphate stock 
 solution required for a tank full of spray. Start the 
 agitator and then slowly pour in the necessary amount 
 of milk of lime. Then complete the filling of the tank 
 with water. 
 
 When bordeaux mixture is made in either of these 
 ways, a sky blue mixture will result, and it is ready for 
 applying to the trees. Freshly made bordeaux mixture 
 has great adhesive properties and should be used only 
 when fresh. Should any surplus remain when you have 
 finished spraying, dump it out, as it is useless after it has 
 stood for a few hours, even though it may have all ap- 
 pearances of being perfectly good. 
 
 Where only a small quantity of bordeaux mixture is 
 needed, use 3 ounces copper sulphate, 3 ounces of lump 
 or hydrated lime and 2 gallons of water. Dissolve both 
 copper sulphate and lime in separate vessels and pour 
 slowly and at the same time into a third. It is then ready 
 for use.
 
 [ 32 ] Fighting Pests and Diseases 
 
 Another thing, when you have finished spraying with 
 bordeaux mixture or lime-sulphur, be sure to wash out 
 the sprayer thoroughly. Run a few buckets of clean 
 water through the spray pump, so as to wash out all of 
 the spray mixture. Also pour some clean water in the 
 spray tank and wash out all of the sediment that may 
 have settled to the bottom. This little precaution at the 
 end of each day's spraying will save a lot of time from 
 stopped-up nozzles, "stuck" valves and kindred ailments 
 of a sprayer. 
 
 Lime-Sulphur 
 
 Commercial or home-made lime-sulphur is an excel- 
 lent fungicide, and in commercial orchard spraying has 
 largely replaced bordeaux mixture since it does not cause 
 the burning and defacement of the foliage and fruit that 
 frequently results from the use of bordeaux mixture. 
 
 Under some conditions it is better to use lime-sulphur 
 during cool, damp weather and bordeaux mixture when 
 the weather is hot and dry. Less burning of fruit and 
 foliage will then occur. 
 
 As a fungicide, the efficiency of lime-sulphur is in- 
 creased by the addition of arsenate of lead, and since 
 fungicides are much more necessary when the trees are 
 in foliage than when in the dormant stage, the addition 
 of arsenate of lead has the additional virtue of control- 
 ling the chewing insects. 
 
 For summer spraying, lime-sulphur is diluted much 
 more than for dormant spraying, the rate depending upon 
 the strength of the concentrated mixture that is used. 
 The dilution table given on page 27 indicates the amount 
 of lime-sulphur to use for 50 gallons of water, and it will 
 be much better to test the strength of the stock solution 
 and dilute accordingly, as otherwise the resulting spray 
 mixture may be altogether too strong, or not strong 
 enough.
 
 Fighting Pests and Diseases [ 33 3 
 
 Self-Boiled Lime-Sulphur 
 
 This is made by putting 8 pounds of freshly slaked 
 quick lime in a barrel, to which is added a small quan- 
 tity of water to start slaking. Eight pounds of sifted 
 sulphur is then slowly added to the slaking lime, and 
 more water is added from time to time to complete the 
 slaking. Care must be taken, however, to not add too 
 much water and "drown" the lime. The slaking mixture 
 must be stirred constantly to bring about a thorough dis- 
 tribution of the sulphur and as soon as the lime has all 
 slaked, which will be in five or ten minutes, the mixture 
 is ready to run through a 20-mesh sieve into the sprayer 
 tank. This material is merely a mechanical mixture of 
 lime and sulphur and will have but little of the sulphur 
 in solution. It is especially adapted for the spraying of 
 peaches and plums in foliage, as it causes none of the 
 burning that frequently results from the use of lime- 
 sulphur or bordeaux. 
 
 Ammoniacal Copper Carbonate 
 
 This is made by mixing 5 ounces of carbonate of 
 copper in 3 ounces of strong ammonia and diluting with 
 50 gallons of water. The ammonia is diluted with from 
 7 to 8 parts of water. The copper carbonate is made into 
 a paste with a little water and then added to the dilute 
 ammonia and stirred until it dissolves. The whole is 
 then poured into 50 gallons of water and is ready for use. 
 As the mixture loses strength on standing it should be 
 made fresh each time it is needed. The service of this 
 spray material is less effective than bordeaux mixture, 
 but it is used in place of bordeaux to avoid the staining 
 of the fruit with the sediment of bordeaux just before 
 the fruits or vegetables are ready for market. 
 
 Sulphur 
 
 Finely ground sulphur has again come into popularity 
 as a fungicide and forms the basis of the dusts that are 
 serviceable for some purposes. It is chiefly useful for
 
 [ 34 ] Fighting Pests and Diseases 
 
 the control of certain fungi and is applied by sprinkling 
 or dusting over the affected leaves. When mixed with 
 lime and drilled in the row with onion seed, it has given 
 satisfactory results in the control of onion smut. 
 
 Potassium Sulphide 
 
 For mildew on gooseberries, potassium sulphide has 
 had its greatest popularity, although the present high 
 price makes it less desirable than any of the other stand- 
 ard fungicides. Potassium sulphide (liver of sulphur) 
 is dissolved in water at the rate of about 3 ounces to 10 
 gallons, and should be used immediately as it loses 
 strength on standing. 
 
 Resin Sticker 
 
 The foliage of some plants, such as onions and cab- 
 bage, is hard to wet, and on that account spray mixtures 
 as ordinarily applied will run off immediately. But 
 when resin sticker is used, the spray will not only stick, 
 as it is applied, but it will stay there. This sticker is 
 made by mixing 2 pounds of resin, 1 pound of sal soda 
 and 1 gallon of water. This mixture should be boiled for 
 1 or iy z hours, until it has become of a clear brown color. 
 The above quantity is sufficient for a barrel of bordeaux 
 mixture. 
 
 How Much Spray Material Is Needed 
 
 That is a question that everyone asks himself the 
 first time he buys spray materials for his orchard and 
 garden, and it is a difficult one to estimate with any 
 degree of certainty, as it v/ill depend altogether on the 
 kind of plants, their size, age, condition, number of appli- 
 cations and the degree of thoroughness with which the 
 spraying is done. 
 
 In the apple orchard where the trees are of good 
 bearing age, that is, from 15 to 20 years old, it is safe to 
 figure on approximately one pound of arsenate of lead 
 per tree for the season; with from one-third to one-half
 
 Fighting Pests and Diseases [35] 
 
 gallons of commercial lime-sulphur, and with one pound 
 of copper sulphate as an average for one application of 
 bordeaux mixture to each six trees. Where bordeaux 
 mixture is to be used in place of lime-sulphur applica- 
 tion, the lime-sulphur requirements will be lessened 
 approximately one-fourth per application. When aphis 
 are to be fought, figure on about one pint of 40 per cent 
 nicotine sulphate for each 15 or 20 trees. In the Middle 
 West the spraying practices are such that apple trees of 
 good bearing age can be sprayed four times during the 
 summer with a total of approximately 18 gallons of spray. 
 By taking that as a basis, an estimate of reasonable accu- 
 racy will enable an apple grower to arrive at his probable 
 needs in spraying chemicals. 
 
 With the small gardener it is less certain as to how 
 much spray material will be needed. Ten gallons of 
 spray will make one good application to a garden 25 by 
 100 feet in size. A one-quart atomizer, such as Hayes 
 Perfect or Matchless, will hold enough spray for one 
 application to about thirty hills of potatoes. 
 
 Diseases and Insects Not Controlled by Spraying 
 
 Spraying does not give relief from all pests that attack 
 plants, as there are certain insects, such as the borers, 
 and certain diseases, such as the bacterial blights, that 
 cannot be readily controlled by spraying. 
 
 Borers 
 
 Fruit and shade trees of all kinds frequently are 
 attacked by boring insects, which, in the grub stage, tun- 
 nel through the wood of the tree and cause more or less 
 serious injury. In the case of the peach tree, the borer 
 is about the worst insect to be combated. There is no 
 universal remedy for borers, no matter what kind it may 
 be or what sort of tree is attacked. The only method of 
 control that is of much satisfaction, particularly in apple 
 trees, is to dig the borer out after it has gained entrance. 
 The position of the borer usually can be quite easily
 
 [ 36 ] Fighting Pests and Diseases 
 
 located by the appearance of its castings or a drop of 
 wax at the entrance to its tunnel. Sometimes the bark is 
 quite discolored immediately over the tunnel. Cut away 
 the bark with a sharp knife, and when the borer has gone 
 too far into the wood to reach easily by cutting, poke a 
 small soft wire into its burrow. If the wire is slightly 
 barbed at the end, usually the borer can be pulled out. 
 
 Painting the trunks of the trees with a carbolic acid- 
 whitewash in early summer, before the eggs are depos- 
 ited, aids some in preventing the borer. Mechanical 
 protectors of various kinds offered on the market like- 
 wise give some protection. But because of the habit of 
 borers, no process has yet been devised that will assure 
 more than a partial protection, with the result that there 
 must be more or less hand digging of the borers. 
 
 Spraying for Peach Borers 
 
 In the case of the peach borer, the West Virginia 
 experiment station has found that where the soil is dug 
 away from the base of the tree to a depth of three or four 
 inches in late fall, and the trunk of the tree then sprayed 
 with a soluble oil spray, such as the commercial brands 
 like "scalecide," or the home-made emulsions, a very high 
 percentage of the borers can be killed. These spray mix- 
 tures "creep" over the surface to which they are applied, 
 and hence penetrate the borer tunnels better than other 
 spray mixtures. Where the applications are made in late 
 fall or early winter, the borers are young and working 
 close to the surface of the bark, so that penetration is 
 comparatively easy. We recommend this method of 
 combating the peach tree borer to all of our readers for 
 trial, and will be glad to have reports of your experience. 
 
 Bacterial Blights 
 
 Apple and pear trees suffer great injury from a bac- 
 terial blight, sometimes called "fire blight" or "twig 
 blight." This disease manifests itself in early spring,
 
 Fighting Pests and Diseases [ 37 ] 
 
 shortly after bloom, by the browning of the foliage, giv- 
 ing the affected trees much the same appearance as if they 
 had been singed by fire. The disease is caused by a 
 germ, which gains entrance to the tender growing tissue 
 through the puncture of sucking insects which have 
 obtained some of the disease germs from an over-winter- 
 ing canker; or through the blossoms where nectar seek- 
 ing insects have left some of the germs. 
 
 This blight disease cannot be cured by any known 
 spraying method, and the only effective means of con- 
 trol is to keep it cut out. The knife or pruning tool should 
 be sterilized with corrosive sublimate, made up at the rate 
 of 1 part to 1,000 parts of water, after making each cut. 
 The pruned off twigs or branches should be immediately 
 burned.
 
 [ 38 ] Insects and Their Control 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 Insects and Their Control 
 
 Those Affecting the Apple 
 
 Codling Moth 
 
 HE pinkish grub or caterpillar of the codling moth 
 is the chief cause of wormy apples. It hatches 
 from an egg deposited by a small, dusky brown 
 moth on the leaves and fruit rather early in the summer. 
 The great majority of the first brood enter the apple at 
 the calyx end and because of this many suppose the eggs 
 are actually deposited in the blossom end. This is an 
 error, as the eggs are deposited on the leaves and some- 
 times on the fruit, and the minute young grub crawls into 
 the calyx end of the apple where it begins its destructive 
 work. 
 
 CONTROL: Because of the habit of the insect to seek 
 the blossom end of the apple, it is desirable to spray the 
 trees with a poison at such time as the calyx may be filled 
 with poison. The time for this is immediately after the petals 
 fall. Use arsenate of lead at the rate of 2 pounds to 50 gal- 
 lons of spray liquid. This application should be made before 
 the calyx closes over the blossom end, which will occur within 
 a week or ten days after the petals drop from the blossoms. 
 
 As there are two broods of codling moths throughout most 
 of the country, a second brood of worms can be expected dur- 
 ing the middle of the summer, and in southern localities there 
 may be a partial third brood. These later broods enter the 
 apple at the side, giving rise to the popular term "side worms." 
 Mid-summer applications of poison will prevent the entrance 
 of these later broods. 
 
 Codling moths over-winter both as larvae and pupae, and 
 transform to moths shortly after apples bloom in the spring. 
 The moths live an average of ten days; the first brood of 
 worms live in the apple an average of three weeks to a month; 
 about a week is spent between leaving the apple and the appear- 
 ance of the cocoon stage for this brood. The moths remain in 
 the cocoon stage about two weeks. About a week passes before
 
 Insects and Their Control [ 39 ] 
 
 the moths which emerge begin laying eggs, and from 40 to 60 
 days later the worms which hatch from these eggs have reached 
 their maturity in the apple as "side worms'* and come out of the 
 fruit to transform into another crop of moths. 
 
 And thus the cycle is repeated for the third brood, which in 
 the warmer parts of the country may be completed. But as a 
 rule, in the larger portion of the apple producing parts of the 
 country, the worms which emerge from the second brood are 
 the ones which pass through the winter to restock the orchard 
 with wormy apples the following year. A great many of the 
 state experiment stations are now keeping careful watch of the 
 appearance of the different broods of codling moths and are 
 in position to advise the fruit growers in their states concern- 
 ing these appearances, in order that the necessary spraying may 
 be done at the most opportune time. It is well worth the while 
 for any apple grower to give careful attention to these data 
 from their state experiment stations and to govern their spray- 
 ing accordingly. 
 
 Promptness and thoroughness are essential in combating 
 the codling moth, and by having the spraying done at exactly 
 the right time for the worms is far more profitable than to do 
 the work when it is most convenient. Because of the habit of 
 the first brood of the moths to enter at the calyx end of the 
 apple, it is very important that the spray material be applied 
 thoroughly, and that the spray be broken up into the finest pos- 
 sible mist in order that it may penetrate the minute cracks 
 between the stamen bars and lodge in the deepest recesses of 
 the calyx cup. This is where there is a distinct advantage in 
 Fruit-Fog, as the finely atomized mist penetrates more effect- 
 ively than a coarse low pressure spray. 
 
 Curculio 
 
 Next to the codling moth, the most expensive pest of 
 apple and peach orchards, is the curculio. The adult is 
 a homely greyish brown beetle about a quarter of an 
 inch long, and with a peculiar elephant-like trunk at its 
 head-end. It attacks the fruit of apples, peaches, plums 
 and cherries, in the skin of which it nibbles little cres- 
 cent shaped slits. In some of these slits the adults de- 
 posit eggs, and in the case of the plum and cherry these 
 eggs hatch and grow into grubs that cause the wormy 
 fruit. The peach is frequently wormy from the develop-
 
 [40] Insects and Their Control 
 
 ment of the curculio grubs, but the grubs are much less 
 liable to reach maturity in the apple. 
 
 However, there is much deformity of the fruit when 
 punctured by curculio, and it is chiefly from this de- 
 formity that the greatest amount of damage comes in 
 the apple. But in plums, peaches and cherries, which 
 are subject to brown rot, the breaks in the skin made by 
 the curculio admit the spores of the brown rot fungus, 
 with the result that the fruit soon rots. 
 
 The curculio over-winters in the beetle stage under 
 rubbish in the orchard, and the adults when they come 
 out of winter quarters feed on the young leaves and 
 later on the fruit. 
 
 CONTROL: Because of its habit of eating the foliage and 
 skin, even though the feeding area in any given position is very 
 small, the curculio can be controlled by applications of arsenate 
 of lead. When the spraying is done, as for the codling moth, 
 it answers for the curculio so that special applications for this 
 particular insect are not necessary, although the curculio is less 
 easily disposed of than the codling moth. Because of the 
 quantity of surface this insect eats is very small, it is highly 
 important that the maximum distribution of spray be obtained. 
 A pressure of 300 pounds is absolutely necessary for this, since 
 it produces the most finely atomized mist, which covers without 
 drenching and dripping off the leaf. Hayes Fruit-Fog sprayers 
 produce an ideal mist, and one that gives maximum efficiency 
 in the control of the curculio. 
 
 Cankerworms 
 
 The cankerworm feeds upon the foliage of a number 
 of different trees, but appear to be especially fond of 
 apple and elm leaves, usually defoliating the trees that 
 are attacked, unless poisoned. The worms are of the 
 "measuring worm" type. The eggs are deposited in 
 very early spring by wingless female moths, which climb 
 up the trunk of the trees and deposit eggs upon the 
 branches, after which the female drops to the ground, 
 exhausted and dies. The adult male possesses wings 
 and flies about in seeking its mate.
 
 APPLE 
 SCAB 
 
 APPLE BLOTCH 
 
 BITTER ROT APPLE CRACKED BY SCAB 
 
 [ Page 41 ]
 
 fSCAB 
 ON APPLE 
 LEAF 
 
 DA MAGE TO 
 PEAR LEAF BY SLUG J 
 
 [ Page 42 ]
 
 BLIGHT ON 
 APPLE TWIG 
 
 PEACH BROWN 
 ROT MUMMIES 
 
 CURRANT WORMS 
 
 [ Page 43 ]
 
 SOOTY BLOTCH AND FLY SPECK FUNGI 
 
 GURCULIO PUNCTURES 
 
 [ Page 44 ]
 
 Insects and Their Control [ 45 ] 
 
 CONTROL: Because of the habit of the female in crawl- 
 ing up the trunks of trees, if the trunks are surrounded with a 
 band of some sticky substance over which the moths cannot 
 crawl, the tree is protected. While this answers quite well 
 under some conditions, in the orchard it is less necessary to 
 band the trees, since the application of arsenate of lead applied 
 in the cluster-bud spray will prove entirely effective in con- 
 trolling canker worms. 
 
 Leaf-Roller 
 
 In several localities the leaf-roller causes a great deal 
 of damage of fruit trees through defoliation. The worms 
 will appear rather early in the spring, feed on the foliage 
 for a while and then disappear, only to come again the 
 next year. This worm is easily identified, because of its 
 habit of drawing the unfolding leaves together and tying 
 them with silk. Within the nest thus formed the worms 
 live and feed upon the leaves. Frequently entire orchards 
 are defoliated by this worm, but as its feeding is not 
 confined strictly to the leaves, it eats the blossom stems 
 and even the young fruit, webbing them together with 
 the leaves and gnawing cavities into the young fruit. 
 
 The eggs of the leaf-roller are deposited in early 
 spring in small oval, convex patches on the bark and 
 smaller twigs. These patches are so nearly the color 
 of the bark that they are not easily observed until after 
 they have hatched, when the egg patches become a light 
 grey color. These egg patches Vary in size from the 
 head of a lead pencil to twice that size. Hatching con- 
 tinues over a period of several days. Each egg mass, 
 at the time it is deposited, is covered by a heavy coat 
 of a varnish-like substance, which renders it impervious 
 to rain and to the great majority of spray liquids. The 
 caterpillars that hatch from these eggs are of a greenish 
 color, and when mature may be about an inch in length. 
 When they have reached their maturity these cater- 
 pillars pupate, that is, they form a crysalis within the 
 nest of folded leaves in which they have lived, and in a 
 short time emerge again as moths.
 
 [ 46 ] Insects and Their Control 
 
 The moths are rusty red in color, with two bright 
 spots on the front edge of each wing, and vary from 
 three-quarters of an inch to an inch in expanse across 
 the wings. There is but one brood a season, and the 
 eggs that are deposited in mid-summer will not hatch 
 until the following spring, often a period of ten months. 
 
 CONTROL: Because of the habit of the caterpillars of 
 tying the leaves together in earliest spring and feeding upon 
 the new leaves as they unfold, it is extremely difficult to put 
 poison on the foliage in such a way that it is entirely effective 
 in controlling this insect. But it has been found that the 
 soluble oil sprays applied during the dormant period will 
 penetrate the egg masses and destroy the eggs. The utmost 
 care must be exercised in applying the soluble oil, in order 
 to cover the tree thoroughly, and to wet every egg mass. 
 Fruit-Fog is especially serviceable here, because its highly 
 atomized condition permits it to spread and cover larger areas 
 than sprays produced by lower pressures. 
 
 Apple Maggot 
 
 The flesh of summer and early fall varieties of fruit 
 is frequently found to contain small brownish winding 
 burrows that are made by the grub of the apple maggot. 
 
 CONTROL: The adult is a fly, which sucks material from 
 the surface of the apple, and when the tree is sprayed with 
 arsenate of lead to which cheap molasses has been added at the 
 rate of 1^ gallons to each 50 gallons, the adults may be pois- 
 oned. Only one brood occurs each season, and as the grubs 
 of this brood reach their maturity, they drop to the ground 
 where they pupate and remain until the following season. 
 Orchards that are cultivated and thoroughly sprayed, as a rule, 
 are free from this insect. 
 
 Case Bearers 
 
 The cigar case bearer and the pistol case bearer, so 
 called because of the shape of their small silken cases, 
 are insects which may do a considerable amount of 
 damage to the foliage of the apple, but which may be 
 controlled by thorough spraying. In spring the worms, 
 which have over-wintered in their cases attached to the 
 twigs, feed on the opening buds and new foliage until 
 full grown, living all the while within their cases, which
 
 Insects and Their Control [ 47 ] 
 
 may be observed projecting from the foliage. Orchards 
 that are thoroughly sprayed as for apple scab and cur- 
 culio are rarely injured by case bearers. But in young 
 orchards, where systematic spraying has not been be- 
 gun, the case bearers may cause considerable damage 
 before the cause may be suspected. It will pay to care- 
 fully observe the young orchard for the presence of case 
 bearers, and to spray once or twice each season with 
 arsenate of lead. (See page 25.) 
 
 Lesser Apple Worm 
 
 The work of this insect is in some respects quite 
 similar to that of the codling moth, and as the cater- 
 pillars both have the same general appearance and pink- 
 ish color, the confusion is quite understandable. The 
 lesser apple worm burrows beneath the skin, usually 
 around the calyx end of the apple, where it may make 
 winding, irregular mines. Where two apples touch each 
 other, or where an apple is partly covered by a leaf, the 
 lesser apple worm may find a place to lodge and damage. 
 Since the worms do not reach their maturity in the fall 
 as soon as the codling moth, it is quite common to find 
 apples that were in perfect condition at the time they 
 were barreled to have large patches of the skin gnawed 
 away and the fruit thereby considerably damaged. The 
 adult is a rusty red moth. 
 
 CONTROL: This insect is controlled by the same treat- 
 ment as is given for the codling moth and the more thoroughl) 
 that treatment is given, the more effective it will be for the con- 
 trol of the lesser apple worm. 
 
 Plant Lice Aphis 
 
 The apple is infested by three kinds of plant lice, two 
 of which are green in color and the other is rosy or 
 brownish. They pass the winter on the twigs and 
 shiny black eggs which hatch very earlv in the spring, 
 just as the buds are beginning to open. These particular 
 individuals are the progenitors of millions that will fol-
 
 [48] Insects and Their Control 
 
 low later in the season unless control measures are taken 
 ^s the first buds are opening. 
 
 CONTROL: Thorough spraying at this time with nico- 
 tine sulphate at the rate of $4 gallon to 100 gallons of lime- 
 sulphur or water, will materially reduce the number. Unless 
 these insects are killed at this time, they will multiply with 
 great rapidity, cause the leaves of the tree to curl; and when 
 they become very numerous they will attack the fruit, causing 
 it to stop growing and have a considerably deformed shape. 
 Where the twigs of apple trees are found in winter to have 
 many small shiny black eggs deposited near the tip or buds, 
 every precaution should be taken to spray thoroughly and vig- 
 orously with nicotine sulphate just as the buds are opening 
 the following spring. (See page 28.) 
 
 Woolly Aphis 
 
 The woolly aphis, unlike the rosy or green aphis, does 
 not attack the leaves or fruit of apples, but it confines 
 its work to the tender bark of young shoots, the callus 
 around wounds and to the roots of the trees. Wherever 
 it feeds, it produces knots or galls that interfere more or 
 less with the normal function of the part. The woolly 
 aphis is particularly troublesome to the roots of nursery 
 stock, and because of its underground habits it is difficult 
 to control in this position. 
 
 It is characterized by its purplish color, with the rear 
 portion of the insect heavily clothed with a white woolly 
 secretion. It attacks many kinds of plants and is found 
 on the curled leaves of the elm in summer. 
 
 CONTROL: Those individuals found upon the bark above 
 ground may be disposed of with an application of nicotine 
 sulphate or kerosene emulsion. For the underground form, an 
 application of tobacco dust scattered on the soil immediately 
 above the roots and covered with soil gives some protection. 
 
 San Jose Scale 
 
 This insect, although of minute size, is capable of 
 causing the death of a fruit tree within two or three 
 years, since it multiplies very rapidly, and a tree once 
 infested soon becomes literally encrusted with the scale
 
 Insects and Their Control [ 49 ] 
 
 and the life actually sucked out of it. San Jose scale 
 has already caused the death of thousands of valuable 
 fruit trees, but as the late J. H. Hale once remarked, it 
 has been a blessing in disguise. It has made it necessary 
 for fruit growers to spray in order to save even their 
 trees. 
 
 CONTROL: The control of the San Jose scale is quite 
 readily affected by making an application of lime-sulphur at 
 proper strength to the trees during the dormant period that 
 is when the leaves are off. Usually this is done in late spring 
 just before the buds open. Commercial grades of lime-sulphur, 
 testing 33 degrees, is diluted with nine parts of water and applied 
 in such a way as to thoroughly wet all parts of the tree from 
 the tips of the uppermost and outermost branches, down to the 
 lowest part of the trunk 
 
 Unless this is done, the rapid multiplication of the scale 
 will enable it to soon encrust every branch and twig of the 
 tree, and even the fruit at harvest time will be found to be 
 disfigured with the minute scales located in the center of bright 
 red spots. Control measures are less easily made during the 
 summer, but as applications made during the dormant period 
 are entirely effective, spraying for the San Jose scale at this 
 time is considered most effective and most economical. 
 
 Oyster-Shell Scale 
 
 It is easy to distinguish the oyster-shell scale from 
 the San Jose because of its oyster-shell-like shape and 
 greater length, often as much as one-eighth of an inch in 
 length. It infests a great many different kinds of trees 
 and shrubs in every state, but is much less destructive 
 than the San Jose scale. 
 
 CONTROL: Applications of lime-sulphur made as for the 
 San Jose scale will hold the oyster-shell in check. 
 
 Scurfy Scale 
 
 The scurfy scale is a native insect found upon apples, 
 peaches, plums, raspberries, roses and many other kinds 
 of shrubs and trees. It is easily identified because of the 
 whitish scale about the size of a pinhead, found on the 
 smooth bark of the infested plant. Although one of the
 
 [ 50 ] Insects and Their Control 
 
 commonest of the scale insects, it occasions but little 
 damage except in isolated instances. However, the pres- 
 ence of the scurfy scale on trees or bushes should serve 
 as a warning to the grower, since it may reduce the 
 vitality of the tree to such an extent that it falls victim 
 to other pests which are less readily controlled. 
 
 CONTROL: The scurfy scale is controlled by applications 
 of lime-sulphur made during the dormant period. In orchards 
 that are systematically sprayed, as for the San Jose scale the 
 scurfy scale is unknown. 
 
 Tent Caterpillar 
 
 In early spring there sometimes are found webs of 
 the tent caterpillar enclosing the smaller forks of some 
 of the twigs, within which are black caterpillars feeding 
 on the tender young leaves. Unless the foliage has been 
 poisoned, or these tents cut out and burned, a consider- 
 able portion of the foliage of the branch may be con- 
 sumed by the hungry caterpillars. In five or six weeks 
 the caterpillars become full grown, after which they leave 
 the web and seek shelter under rubbish at the base of the 
 tree, or in other places where they transform to stout 
 bodied, reddish brown moths. These deposit eggs in a 
 knot-like band around the twig and cover them with a 
 frothy varnish which gives a smooth, glistening surface 
 to the whole mass. These eggs do not hatch until the 
 following spring. 
 
 CONTROL: Since this is a foliage eating insect an appli- 
 cation of arsenate of lead before the appearance of the worms, 
 or at about that time, will prove effective. Because of the 
 prominence of the egg masses, when pruning, these egg masses 
 should be cut off and kept in some convenient place in the 
 orchard until hatching time in the spring. This will permit 
 the emergence of many minute parasitic flies which have been 
 feeding on the eggs, and which take a very prominent part in 
 keeping this pest under control. 
 
 Fall Web-Worm 
 
 This insect is easily confused with the tent caterpillar, 
 but differs in that it appears in mid or late summer, and
 
 Insects and Their Control [ 51 ] 
 
 is a whitish caterpillar, heavily clothed with long white 
 hairs. It spins a web securely enclosing the leaves upon 
 which it feeds. When the caterpillars have reached ma- 
 turity, they leave the web and in some secluded place 
 spin a flimsy cocoon of silk within which they transform 
 to pupae and later emerge as pure white moths. The 
 eggs are deposited on the leaves in pale yellowish green 
 patches of 400 to 500. 
 
 CONTROL: The fall web worm is a common pest in all 
 orchards that are not sprayed, and upon many different kinds 
 of forest and shade trees. But it may be controlled by an 
 application of arsenate of lead as soon as the first webs are 
 observed. In orchards that are thoroughly and regularly 
 sprayed there is little or no trouble from the fall web worm. 
 
 Apple Red Bags 
 
 These are small bright red bugs which puncture the 
 fruit of young apples and cause them to drop early or to 
 be knotty and deformed in shape at harvest. 
 
 CONTROL: It may be controlled by adding nicotine sul- 
 phate to the lime-sulphur-arsenate of lead spray that is applied 
 when the apple blossom buds are showing pink, and again 
 when making the calyx application. 
 
 Insects Affecting the Pear 
 
 The pear is attacked by a great majority of the insects 
 that attack the apple, and the control measures for the 
 one are also applicable to the other. But the pear is also 
 subject to the attack of certain other insects which cause 
 more or less serious damage, of which the following are 
 some of the most important : 
 
 Thrips 
 
 This is a minute insect, so small that it is barely visi- 
 ble to the naked eye, but when present in sufficient num- 
 bers it may puncture the tender opening buds of the pear 
 to such an extent that the sap will wet the fruit spur and 
 cause a discoloration of the bud. When the trees are in 
 full bloom, the attacked parts may have some such ap- 
 pearance as though attacked by blight. . 
 
 LIBRARY 
 UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS
 
 [ 52 ] Insects and Their Control 
 
 CONTROL: The most efficient spray mixture is nicotine 
 sulphate, 40 per cent strength, diluted at the rate of three- 
 quarter pint in 100 gallons of water, to which from three to five 
 pounds of soap have been added. This should be applied under 
 high pressure, holding the nozzle close to the buds when the 
 buds are beginning to open, and applied again as the petals 
 are falling. 
 
 Psylla 
 
 This pesky little insect sucks the sap of the pear and 
 is found mostly on the under sides of the young leaves 
 or in the blossom clusters. They may occur in such 
 large numbers as to suck out so much sap as to seriously 
 check the development of the part that it attacked eventu- 
 ally causing it to drop. In long continued attacks the 
 tree may become almost entirely defoliated. Several 
 broods occur each season, and the last brood goes through 
 the winter as adult "flies." These cluster on the twigs 
 in winter, and in cool weather are much more sluggish 
 than in warm. 
 
 CONTROL: Because of this habit, an application of sol- 
 uble oil, or nicotine sulphate, applied thoroughly so as to wet 
 the insects, and done on days when the temperature is above 
 freezing in late November or December, will kill the great 
 majority of these adults. An application of nicotine sulphate 
 made as the cluster buds have opened, but as late as possible 
 before the blossoms have actually opened, will dispose of most 
 of the spring brood that developed from the few individuals 
 that escaped the later winter spraying. 
 
 Plum and Pear Slag 
 
 You have seen the leaves on pears and plums turn 
 brown in summer, and when you examine them, nothing 
 remains of the leaf but the bare skeleton, and perhaps a 
 thin film of skin on the under side. This is the work of 
 the slug, a slimy, black creature that feeds upon the pulp 
 of the leaf, usually feeding from the upper surface. 
 
 CONTROL: Because of the slimy, sticky nature of the 
 slug, any irritating substance thrown upon it will cling and 
 cause the insect to drop to the ground and die. Air slacked 
 lime, ashes, dry soil, tobacco dust or anything of that sort is
 
 Insects and Their Control [ 53 ] 
 
 effective. But because the insect chews the tissue of the leaf, 
 it is most effectively disposed of by spraying the tissue upon 
 which the insect may be feeding with arsenate of lead. It 
 attacks both plum and pear, but causes little or no damage in 
 orchards that are regularly sprayed. 
 
 Insects of the Peach 
 
 Curculio 
 
 Peaches and plums suffer even more severely from 
 the depredations of the plum curculio than do apples. 
 This is for the reason that the curculio is chiefly responsi- 
 ble for the worms in plums and peaches, and also for the 
 reason that the feeding punctures made by the curculio 
 provide means of entrance of the brown rot fungus. This 
 fungus causes the fruit to rot very quickly and not in- 
 frequently unsprayed or improperly sprayed peach and 
 plum crops rot upon the trees or in transit to market as 
 a result of this fungus. On that account special atten- 
 tion should be directed to the control of the curculio on 
 peaches and plums. 
 
 CONTROL: This is more easily done in the case of these 
 fruits than on the apple. An application of self-boiled lime- 
 sulphur and arsenate of lead made immediately after the shucks 
 drop from the little fruits and again about two or three 
 weeks later with a third application about a month before the 
 fruit ripens. Sometimes in this last application, it is desirable 
 to omit the arsenate of lead. There is less danger from the 
 curculio at that time. 
 
 Peach Tree Borers 
 
 In many parts of the country the worst insect of the 
 peach is the borer, which attacks the tree at or near the 
 surface of the soil and gnaws away the tender inner por- 
 tion of the bark. Its presence is indicated by a consider- 
 able flow of wax. The most effective means of control 
 is to dig out the borers in early summer and late fall, 
 keeping a mound of earth pulled up around the trunk. 
 This will make it necessary for the little borers to enter
 
 [ 54 ] Insects and Their Control 
 
 the tree higher up on the trunk where it is easier to get 
 at them. The adult of the peach tree borer is a clear 
 winged moth. 
 
 CONTROL: Eggs are deposited on the trunk of the tree, 
 and because of this, and the fact that the little grubs work 
 their way into the bark, a coating of asphaltum or gas tar 
 applied to the trunk of the tree will afford some protection. 
 However, since any protective material applied to the trunk 
 of a growing tree will crack more or less, the smallest crack 
 will afford a means of entrance through the protective cover- 
 ing, and a tree may become infested in spite of the protection. 
 Some additional relief from borer damage can be obtained by 
 making applications of rather strong lime-sulphur solution, 
 whitewash or nicotine sulphate to the trunk at about the period 
 the adult bearers are depositing their eggs. There is no sure 
 and certain relief from borers, although numberless so-called 
 "remedies," "cures" and "protectors" are on the market. Trees 
 that are infested with borers soon become weakened, their 
 growth is reduced, and the tree dies in a year or two. 
 
 Black Peach-aphis 
 
 This insect attacks both roots and tops of the peach 
 trees and not infrequently is present on the roots to such 
 an extent that much damage is done before their presence 
 is suspected. Whenever the black aphis is observed 
 clustered on the tender growing shoots, their presence 
 on the roots is almost certain. The chief damage is to 
 nursery stock, and the best means of control is to dis- 
 tribute tobacco dust or stems thickly along the rows just 
 above the roots, and to cut off and destroy the twigs that 
 are infested, or spray with nicotine sulphate. 
 
 Shot-Hole Borer 
 
 Peach and plum trees sometimes display minute bits 
 of gum on the bark in many places over the trunk and 
 main branches. Usually this gumming is due to the pres- 
 ence of the shot-hole borer. This is a minute black beetle, 
 scarcely as large as a grain of wheat. The adult beetle 
 gains entrance to the bark by nibbling through the corky 
 outer portion, and feeds upon the soft inner bark. Here 
 it makes a little channel through the soft portion of the
 
 Insects and Their Control [ 55 ] 
 
 bark, in each side of which she deposits her eggs. When 
 these eggs hatch, the little grubs burrow through the 
 soft portion of the bark, at right angles to the channel 
 made by the parent. When they reach maturity, they 
 gnaw their way through the corky outer bark, making a 
 hole that resembles a shot-hole, hence the name "shot- 
 hole borer." 
 
 CONTROL: This insect is most destructive to trees that 
 have been weakened by the peach tree borer, but seldom attacks 
 or does much damage to trees that are growing thriftily. It is 
 obvious therefore that precautions be taken to keep the peach 
 trees growing thriftily. Trees that are well sprayed each year, 
 pruned, fertilized and cultivated, are less liable to attacks from 
 this little pest than when the trees are neglected. Applications 
 of whitewash to the trunks of the trees from the soil well up 
 into the branches afford some protection, and still further pro- 
 tection can be obtained from the destruction of all prunings 
 from the peach orchard immediately after the pruning is done. 
 This beetle will breed in prunings as much as a year old, and 
 on that account these prunings should be burned before the 
 arrival of warm weather. 
 
 Cherry Insects 
 
 The chief insect enemies of the cherry are the same 
 as those for the peach and plum, and means of control 
 are the same. 
 
 Grape Insects 
 
 Grape Berry Moth 
 
 This insect is the most common cause of wormy 
 grapes. The adult is a moth purplish brown in color and 
 with a wing expanse of about half an inch. They appear 
 in spring about as the grapes are beginning growth and 
 deposit their eggs on the blossom clusters. The worms 
 that hatch from these eggs feed on the blossoms and 
 small berries, webbing the cluster together. A second 
 generation appears in mid-summer and feeds upon the 
 pulp of the grapes, which soon rots from fungous attacks 
 that gain entrance through the opening made by the
 
 [ 56 ] Insects and Their Control 
 
 worm. When the worms reach maturity they cut out a 
 little patch of the grape leaf, fold it over and tie it to- 
 gether with silk, within which they pupate. There may 
 be as many as three or four broods in a season. 
 
 Control is affected by making an application of arsenate 
 of lead and bordeaux mixture when the blossom clusters are 
 unfolding, another application immediately after blooming and 
 a third in mid-summer. In a small vineyard or on a grape 
 arbor, the grapes can be pretty well protected by bagging 
 them as soon as the little grapes are well formed. 
 
 Grape Curculio 
 
 This is a pestiferous little beetle, near kin to the cur- 
 culio that damages the plum, peach and apple. It causes 
 wormy grapes, but the worms can be distinguished from 
 the grape berry moth in that they are white, footless 
 grubs, while those of the berry moth are greenish, with 
 well developed legs and wiggling away when disturbed. 
 The adults emerge from winter quarters early in the 
 spring and feed upon the foliage for three or four weeks 
 before depositing their eggs in the berries. Infested 
 berries usually show a purplish spot around the egg 
 puncture. When the grub hatches it bores into the fruit 
 and in three or four days reaches the seeds, which it 
 then devours. Usually there is but one generation, al- 
 though in some localities there are two. 
 
 Control is alfected by spraying with arsenicals as in the 
 case of the grape berry moth, or the root worm. 
 
 Grape Root Worm (Fidia) 
 
 This insect riddles the leaves of grapes, eats chunks 
 out of the green berries and eats off the smaller roots of 
 the vine. On that account it can well be considered as 
 the master destroyer of the vineyard. The adult is a 
 brownish beetle about a quarter of an inch long, and so 
 heavily covered with minute grey hairs that it appears 
 to be grey in color. The adult feeds upon the foliage of 
 the grape, nibbling off the surface in more or less chain- 
 like areas. They deposit their eggs beneath the loose
 
 Insects and Their Control [ 57 ] 
 
 bark on the older canes, and the young which hatch from 
 these eggs drop to the ground where they burrow down 
 and feed upon the tender rootlets. So extensive may 
 be their damage here that a very large proportion of the 
 root surface is destroyed, with serious results to the vine. 
 
 Control is affected by spraying the vines with bordeaux 
 mixture and arsenate of lead as soon as the leaves become 
 fully expanded. This will make the foliage distasteful to the 
 adult insects and drive them away. The vines must be sprayed 
 with extreme thoroughness, as the beetles will seek those por- 
 tions which have escaped the spray. 
 
 Rose Chafers 
 
 This long-legged, ungainly beetle often swarms into 
 vineyards in sandy regions and does much damage by 
 feeding upon the blossoms and foliage. It is readily 
 recognized because of its light brownish color and its 
 long, spiny awkward looking legs. 
 
 It may be controlled by spraying the vines thoroughly with 
 bordeaux mixture and arsenate of lead or with arsenate of lead 
 to which a gallon of molasses is added to each 50 gallons of 
 spray. This sweetened spray is more readily eaten by the 
 beetle than is the unsweetened. 
 
 L eaf- Hoppers 
 
 This is a small yellowish, reddish or greenish insect 
 which sucks the sap from the leaves of grape, apple and 
 many other kinds of plants, and causes more serious 
 damage than is ordinarily suspected. This is chiefly for 
 the reason that the insect is most active rather late in 
 the summer and the results of its activities occur only a 
 short time before the normal period for leaf fall, with 
 the result that the leaves that are sucked dry by it, drop 
 from the vines a little prematurely, but sufficiently early 
 to seriously interfere with the proper function of the 
 leaves. And, since the insect feeds from the lower side 
 of the leaves, immense numbers of them may be present 
 without being observed, until they reach maturity, when
 
 [ 58 ] .Insects and Their Control 
 
 the little adults fairly swarm through the air as the vines 
 are disturbed. 
 
 CONTROL: The insect may be controlled by making 
 thorough applications of Black Leaf 40 to the under sides of 
 the leaves when many of the young hoppers may be seen. This 
 will be about the first of July. Make a second application in 
 10 days. 
 
 Insects of the Currant and Gooseberry 
 
 Several different kinds of worms feed on the foliage 
 of both currants and gooseberries, and when they are 
 found, or whenever it is known that damage will result 
 from these foliage eating worms, it is advisable to make 
 an application of arsenate of lead, a teaspoonful to a 
 gallon of water, or two pounds to 50 gallons of water, 
 upon the first appearance of the worms, or when the 
 foliage has begun to unfold. Later applications, par- 
 ticularly, after the fruit has formed, should be of helle- 
 bore or pyrethrum, 2 ounces to 1 gallon, in order to avoid 
 making the fruit poisonous to eat. 
 
 Where plant lice appear, it is important to make an 
 application of nicotine sulphate, putting it on at the first 
 appearance of the aphis, and before the leaves have begun 
 to curl. After the leaves have become curled it is very 
 difficult to wet the lice sufficiently as many of them will 
 be within the curls of the leaves where it is hard to wet 
 them with the spray. 
 
 Insects of Strawberry 
 
 Leaf Roller 
 
 One of the most expensive pests of strawberry beds 
 is the leaf roller which appears in early spring and webs 
 the leaves together. An application of arsenate of lead, 
 two pounds to 50 gallons of water, made early in the 
 spring before the insect begins work, will hold it in 
 check. Should the application be delayed until after the 
 fruit has formed, use pyrethrum or hellebore instead of
 
 Insects and Their Control [ 59 ] 
 
 the arsenate, making it up at the rate of four ounces to 
 two gallons of water. 
 
 The strawberry slug may be controlled by similar 
 applications. While there are a number of other insects 
 which attack the strawberry, their control is obtained 
 more effectually by practicing good cultural methods 
 than by any particular form of spraying. The better 
 the care that is given to the strawberry plantation, the 
 better the fruit will be, as regards insect troubles. Except 
 in the case of certain fungous diseases of the strawberry, 
 it is seldom necessary to regard spraying as anything 
 more than an emergency measure. But as is mentioned 
 on page 80 the spraying for rust is necessary in many 
 parts of the country, and arsenate of lead can be included 
 in that application to advantage. 
 
 Insects of Vegetable Crops 
 
 Colorado Potato Beetle 
 
 This is the large, striped beetle that is found through 
 practically all of the territory in which the white potato 
 is grown. The adults hibernate during the winter and 
 appear at about the time the first green leaves of pota- 
 toes get above the soil. Upon these the adult beetles 
 will feed and usually by the time the potato tops are 
 six inches high, small patches of the yellow eggs of the 
 potato beetles will be found on the under sides of the 
 leaves. These hatch into reddish black slugs, which are 
 ravenous feeders, and consume a great amount of foliage 
 in a short time. 
 
 CONTROL: Its foliage eating habit renders the Colo- 
 rado potato beetle subject to control with any poison that may 
 be applied to the leaves. Either arsenate of lead and Paris 
 green may be used for this purpose, and may be applied alone 
 or with bordeaux mixture. As is d'scussed elsewhere in this 
 book (page 85), it is much better to apply a combined insecticide 
 and fungicide to the potato, as the injury occasioned by the 
 beetle is only one of many injuries to which the potato is 
 subject. Lime-sulphur should not be used on potatoes.
 
 [ 60 ] Insects and Their Control 
 
 Striped Cucumber Beetle 
 
 When cucumbers, squash and melons are just start- 
 ing into growth, their leaves often are greatly damaged 
 by the yellow and black striped cucumber beetle. These 
 eat the pulpy surface from the leaves, leaving more or 
 less of the thin skin of one side. 
 
 CONTROL: The plants may be protected while very 
 young, with a cover of wire screen; or they may be sprayed 
 with arsenate of lead and bordeaux mixture. This serves both 
 as a repellant to drive the insects away, and as a poison for 
 the few that may venture to take a bite. 
 
 Cabbage Worms 
 
 Cabbage, cauliflower and related plants suffer much 
 damage from the green caterpillars of the cabbage worm 
 which eats holes in the leaves. 
 
 CONTROL: The plants may be protected by spraying 
 with any of the arsenical poisons to which resin sticker has 
 been added. Where the plants of cabbage or cauliflower are 
 just heading, it is better to dust the plant with hellebore or 
 pyrethrum. Several applications of poison may be necessary 
 during a season, as there are several over-lapping broods of 
 the worms each year. 
 
 Aphis or Plant Lice 
 
 In some seasons plant lice are very destructive to 
 many kinds of vegetables, especially turnips, cabbage, 
 cucumbers, melons and potatoes. These insects may be 
 controlled quite effectively by spraying with nicotine 
 sulphate, making the applications in such a way as to 
 wet all of the insects. Usually they will be found more 
 numerous on the under surfaces of the leaves than else- 
 where. 
 
 Onion Thrips 
 
 The onion thrips are minute sucking insects which 
 puncture the leaves and suck the sap. Enormous num- 
 bers of them may be present in a field and their presence 
 is readily detected through the bleaching of the leaves.
 
 SLUG OF POTATO BEETLE 
 
 PUNCTURES 
 BY POTATO 
 FLEE BE 
 
 POTATO BEETLE '(Enlarged) 
 
 [ Page 61 ]
 
 DAMAGE BY ELM LEAF BEETLE 
 
 SPINY ELM CATERPILLAR 
 
 MAPLE COTTONY SCALE 
 
 t Page 62 ]
 
 DEFOLIATED BY BAG WORMS 
 
 TUSSOCK MOTH CATERPILLAR 
 
 [ Page 63 ]
 
 *. '^**'~ .**, 
 
 STRIPED CUCUMBER BEETLE 
 
 BLACK ROT 
 OF GRAPE 
 
 [ Page 64 ]
 
 Insects and Their Control [65] 
 
 Control is effected by spraying with whale oil soap, one 
 pound to four gallons of water; or with nicotine sulphate, one 
 part to 800 parts of water. 
 
 Squash Stink Bags 
 
 This bug hibernates during the winter and emerges 
 in spring when squash, cucumbers, pumpkin and melon 
 vines are getting a nice start. The shining, brownish 
 eggs are laid in clusters on the under sides of the leaves 
 and the young bugs suck the sap from the leaves and 
 vines. 
 
 CONTROL: These may be destroyed with an application 
 of nicotine sulphate; or the adults may be trapped under bits 
 of board laid about the plants. These should be turned over 
 daily in early spring and the bugs crushed. 
 
 Cat Worms 
 
 Garden vegetables suffer considerable damage from 
 cut worms, which usually appear during the night and 
 cut off at the surface of the ground newly set cabbages, 
 tomatoes and other vegetables. This kind of damage 
 can be prevented by wrapping the stems of the plants 
 when transplanting with a little collar of paper. A better 
 method is to poison the worms with poisoned bran mash. 
 (See page 29.) 
 
 Corn Ear Worm 
 
 This troublesome and disgusting insect can be more 
 readily controlled, at least in the sweet corn patch, than 
 is commonly believed. By dusting or spraying the ears 
 with arsenate of lead when the silks are just starting, 
 and repeating in four or five days, with a third applica- 
 tion four or five days later. The adult lays her eggs on 
 the silks, on which the young worms feed as they work 
 their way down to the kernels of corn. 
 
 Flea Beetle 
 
 Flea beetles are particularly troublesome on egg 
 plants, potatoes and other kinds of vegetables, where 
 they eat small holes in the leaves. Bordeaux mixture
 
 [ 66 ] Insects and Their Control 
 
 with arsenate of lead will keep the plants free from the 
 pest and should be applied whenever the beetles appear 
 in sufficient numbers to warrant it. 
 
 Maggots in Cabbage and Radish Roots 
 
 Cabbage roots and radishes suffer from injury by 
 maggots which eat into the roots, causing most damage 
 when the plants are small. In the case of cabbage, pro- 
 tection can be had by the use of tightly fitting cards cut 
 from tarred paper. When placed about the stems of 
 newly set cabbage they prevent the newly hatched mag- 
 gots from reaching the roots. Radishes can be pro- 
 tected by sprinkling tobacco dust along the rows in which 
 the seed is placed. 
 
 Insects on Flowering Shrabs 
 
 There are many kinds of leaf eating insects which 
 attack the foliage of ornamental shrubs, but as in the 
 case of all leaf eating insects, they may be destroyed by 
 spraying the foliage with arsenate of lead. Make the 
 application when the first of the insects are observed. 
 Use arsenate of lead at the rate of one pound of powdered 
 to 50 gallons of water; or two level teaspoonfuls to one 
 gallon of water. 
 
 Slugs on Roses 
 
 The green slug that appears on roses in early spring 
 and causes the foliage to turn brown, may be destroyed 
 by making an application of arsenate of lead in early 
 spring when the first evidence of the slug is observed. 
 Apply the spray so as to wet both the upper and under 
 sides of the leaves. 
 
 Plant Lice or Aphis 
 
 Several different kinds of plant lice are found on orna- 
 mental shrubs. Some are green, some reddish and some 
 black. All suck the sap from the leaves or other tender 
 parts of the plant and in some instances cause the leaves 
 to curl. To control, apply nicotine sulphate in soapy 
 water as described on page 28.
 
 Insects and Their Control [ 67 ] 
 
 Red Spiders 
 
 The work of these mites is frequently very severe 
 before they are observed, as they usually are very small 
 and usually work on the under sides of the leaves. The 
 infested leaves take on a yellowish appearance and soon 
 dry up. 
 
 The most effective control measure is to spray the plants 
 with a coarse stream of cold water under high pressure. In 
 severe cases an application of kerosene emulsion is a help. 
 Sulphur dusted over the plants affected by red spiders will 
 frequently destroy the mites.
 
 [ 68 ] Diseases and Their Control 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 Diseases and Their Control 
 
 Those Affecting the Apple 
 
 Apple Scab 
 
 HIS disease generally is considered to be the most 
 important disease of the apple, since it occurs 
 throughout almost the entire apple growing ter- 
 ritory of North America. Total loss of the apple crop 
 frequently is caused by this disease, especially in seasons 
 when conditions are favorable for the disease at the time 
 the apples are in blossom. In other years it causes seri- 
 ous losses in different ways, such as reducing the set of 
 fruit ; lessening the efficiency of the foliage ; lowering the 
 quality and size of the fruit, and diminishing its keeping 
 quality. 
 
 Scab attacks the leaves, flowers and fruit. Its first 
 appearance is on the leaves, where it produces small black 
 spots, which become a quarter of an inch or more in 
 diameter. Affected leaves will usually at first curl to a 
 slight extent, particularly over the affected spots. On 
 the flowers, the scab fungus appears mostly on the stems 
 of the flowers or young fruits and on the calyx. The 
 scab spot may girdle the stems, cause it to turn yellow 
 and drop. On the fruit the scab spots are similar in 
 appearance to those on the leaves, and in severe cases 
 will run together until more or less of the surface is cov- 
 ered with the black, webby fungus. As the fruit enlarges 
 in size, the diseased surface will crack, the fruit become 
 more or less lop-sided and may drop before reaching 
 maturity. 
 
 Aside from the direct injury to the fruit, scab causes 
 great losses to apple growers through the destruction of 
 the foliage. Leaves that are suffering from scab drop
 
 Diseases and Their Control [69] 
 
 early in the season. Not infrequently are apple trees 
 defoliated by scab before the fruit is fully ripe. This loss 
 of foliage lessens the vitality of the trees; it is less able 
 to build up fruit buds for the following season, or make 
 strong, vigorous twig growth, or to resist attacks of other 
 diseases. On this account, the indirect injury resulting 
 from scab may be considered as being as much or even 
 more than the direct injury that appears on the fruit 
 itself. 
 
 CONTROL: Damage from apple scar may be materially 
 reduced by spraying with any of the standard fungicides. 
 And since the proper measures for controlling scab conform 
 r/ith the proper times to spray for codling moth control, the 
 same applications serve for both. Lime-sulphur has come to 
 be regarded as the best fungicide for scab control, since it is 
 somewhat less liable to burn or russet the fruit than is bor- 
 deaux mixture, particularly during cool wet weather. 
 
 The first application for scab control should be made when 
 the flower buds are showing pink and have separated suffi- 
 ciently that the spray can be driven among the buds. This is 
 known as the "cluster bud" application. For this application 
 commercial lime-sulphur should be diluted approximately at 
 the rate of one gallon to 40 gallons of water, to which arsenate 
 of lead is added at the rate of two pounds of paste to 50 gal- 
 lons of solution. Bordeaux mixture may be used in place of 
 lime-sulphur, but in cool weather of spring may cause some 
 burning. 
 
 Repeat this application immediately after the petals fall 
 from the blossoms. This is known as the "calyx application," 
 and is the most important of the entire season for codling 
 moth control, and of almost equal importance in scab control. 
 A third application should be made about ten days or two 
 weeks later, although in years when scab is not severe, this 
 application may be deferred until the second brood of codling 
 moth worms may be expected. 
 
 Apple Blotch 
 
 In many parts of the apple producing region, a dis- 
 ease of almost equal importance to scab is blotch. This 
 disease not only reduces the quality of the fruit, but 
 through its habit of growing on the twigs, causes dam- 
 age through lessening the productiveness of the branches.
 
 [ 70 ] Diseases and Their Control 
 
 It also attacks the foliage, but not to so great an extent 
 as scab. 
 
 The disease is first noticeable on the fruit, where it 
 appears as small star shaped black spots. These enlarge 
 rapidly and the blackened area becomes more or less 
 swollen, soon showing minute black pimples from which 
 spores are liberated for the further dissemination of the 
 disease. These black spots enlarge and run together, and 
 as the apple increases in size, cracks will appear, much as 
 in the case of scab. 
 
 On the twigs, blotch produces roughened areas called 
 "cankers" that persist from year to year, producing spores 
 from which the annual attacks of blotch have their 
 source. On the leaves the blotch spots appear as very 
 small yellowish areas, usually not sufficient in size or 
 number to cause serious trouble. 
 
 CONTROL: Since the disease has its source on the cank- 
 ered twigs and branches, much relief in blotch control will 
 come from cutting out all of these cankers that are observed 
 when doing the annual pruning. Spraying must be begun 
 before the disease makes its start on the fruit, which is usually 
 about a month after the petals fall. Either lime-sulphur or 
 bordeaux mixture may be used, but it is better to use lime- 
 sulphur in wet weather, as it is less liable to burn or russet 
 the fruit under such conditions. On the other hand, it is 
 usually better to use bordeaux mixture when the weather is 
 hot and dry. The first application should be made about three 
 weeks after the petals fall, which is about the time the second 
 brood of codling moth worms may be expected. Another 
 application should be made in two or three weeks, and a third 
 may be needed two or three weeks later. Since the last two 
 applications come at the right time for bitter rot control, both 
 diseases may be sprayed for at the same time when bitter rot 
 is expected. 
 
 Bitter-Rot 
 
 For the suddenness of its appearance and the great 
 damage that it causes, bitter rot is the most destructive 
 of all fungous diseases of the apple in favorable seasons. 
 It is essentially a southern disease and occurs from the 
 Ozark region of Missouri eastward and southward to
 
 Diseases and Their Control [ 71 ] 
 
 the Atlantic coast. While present in this territory every 
 year, it is only in seasons when climatic conditions are 
 especially favorable for its development that bitter rot 
 causes its greatest destruction. In such seasons the apple 
 crop may be totally ruined in a few days. Crops have 
 been barreled without the observance of a trace of bitter 
 rot, only to be wholly rotten before reaching market. 
 
 Bitter rot appears on the fruit from June to October, 
 but the hot months of July and August are the months 
 in which it usually is most destructive. 
 
 The fungus occurs on the branches, where it causes 
 the formation of dead areas called "cankers" from which 
 spores are liberated. These spores are carried by wind 
 and rain to the fruit, where conditions are favorable for 
 their growth and result in the characteristic rotting of 
 the fruit. On the fruit, bitter rot causes the formation 
 of rotting spots, more or less circular and marked by 
 rings, one within the other. The innermost rings usually 
 show minute black pimples from which spores ooze. The 
 rotten spots usually are more or less depressed or 
 shrunken below the normal surface of the apple, and 
 are funnel shaped inwardly toward the core. Finally 
 the apple is wholly decayed, when it may fall or may 
 hang on the tree as a mummy for as much as a year. 
 These mummied apples are a source of infection the fol- 
 lowing year, and should be removed from the tree when 
 doing the pruning in winter. The cankered limbs and 
 twigs likewise should be removed as they are the chief 
 source of infection. 
 
 CONTROL: Lime-sulphur is not effective in the control 
 of bitter rot. But bordeaux mixture, applied as for the second 
 and third blotch spray will control bitter rot quite effectually, 
 although in some seasons three or four applications may be 
 necessary. 
 
 Cedar Rust 
 
 This disease is peculiar in that it spends part of its 
 life on the apple and part on the red cedar. On the apple
 
 [ 72 ] Diseases and Their Control 
 
 it produced yellow spots on the leaves. The lower sur- 
 face of the affected leaves show peculiar flask shaped pro- 
 tuberances immediately under the diseased spots. These 
 protuberances soon open with a fringe around their tops 
 and give rise to spores for the further dissemination of 
 the disease. The fruit often is attacked in a similar 
 manner, thereby decreasing its market value, while the 
 foliage may be caused to drop prematurely. 
 
 From the apple, the spores must pass back to the 
 cedar tree before the life cycle is complete. On the cedar 
 they produce the "cedar apples" which are observed in 
 spring because of the queer jelly-like, orange colored 
 horns that appear upon them. These horns give rise to 
 the spores that produce the disease on the apple. 
 
 CONTROL: Cedar-apple rust does not yield readily to 
 spraying, chiefly because of the difficulty of getting the spray 
 on at the right time, as the disease is most severe right at the 
 time when the tree is growing most rapidly. But where trees 
 are sprayed with lime-sulphur at the rate of one to 40 with 
 sufficient frequency to keep the new leaves coated, spraying 
 may give good results. It is better however to remove all 
 red cedar trees within a mile of the orchard, as without the 
 cedar trees rust cannot continue. 
 
 Blister Canker 
 
 This is essentially a disease of the trunk and limbs 
 of apple trees which die as a result of the infection. Ben 
 Davis and Gano are particularly susceptible and great 
 numbers of them have died as a direct result of blister 
 canker. This fungus gains entrance to the tree through 
 wounds made in pruning, particularly where limbs of 
 rather large size are removed and the wound left with- 
 out a suitable covering of paint. 
 
 The first evidence of the disease usually appears 
 about wounds, where the bark dies for a considerable 
 distance above or below the wound. The bark shows 
 blister-like protuberances one-eighth to a quarter of an 
 inch in diameter arranged close together over a consid-
 
 Diseases and Their Control [ 73 ] 
 
 erable portion of the diseased area. These dead areas 
 are known as "cankers" and they enlarge so rapidly 
 that in the course of two or three years from the time 
 the canker has made its first appearance on the bark, the 
 limb will be girdled and dead. 
 
 This disease cannot be controlled by spraying. It 
 is a wound parasite, as the spores germinate and grow 
 in wounds, and it may exist in a tree for several years, 
 completely invading the entire heart wood before appear- 
 ing on the surface. It makes its greatest progress in 
 trees suffering from drought, under which conditions 
 whole trees may die in a single season. 
 
 CONTROL: Preventive measures only can be relied upon 
 for the protection of trees from this disease. Wounds should be 
 treated with a solution of copper sulphate and then be painted 
 with one or two applications of white lead and oil or with 
 asphaltum. The disinfection should be made immediately after 
 pruning, and as soon as the wound has dried, it should be 
 painted. A second coat of paint should be made when the 
 first has dried. In the case of wounds several inches in diam- 
 eter it is well to make subsequent applications of paint. Where 
 possible avoid the planting of varieties susceptible to blister 
 canker. 
 
 Sooty-Blotch; Fly Speck 
 
 These fungi are of minor importance except in that 
 they soil the appearance of the fruit. Their names are 
 sufficiently descriptive to provide identification, since 
 both of them effect only the skin of the fruit, where the 
 black and smoky appearance caused by them spoils the 
 looks of the fruit. Usually they occur on apples that 
 are on the lower limbs where they are shaded, uncolored 
 and more or less protected from sun and free circula- 
 tion of air by weeds and grass. In orchards where thor- 
 ough spraying is done for scab and codling moth, neither 
 of these fungi are of any importance. They are simply 
 evidences of neglect. 
 
 Anthracnose 
 
 This disease is prevalent in the apple orchards of the 
 Pacific Northwest, where it causes dead spots or cankers
 
 [ 74 ] Diseases and Their Control 
 
 on the branches of apple trees, sooner or later causing the 
 death of the limbs. 
 
 CONTROL: Anthracnose may be controlled or cleaned 
 out of an orchard by removing the cankers and spraying with 
 bordeaux mixture at the proper times. Since the spores of this 
 fungus are disseminated during the summer months, it is best 
 to make an application of 6-6-50 bordeaux immediately after 
 the fruit is harvested and a second application within two 
 weeks. These applications should be made in such a way as to 
 coat the limbs of the trees so as to protect them from the 
 spores of the disease. 
 
 Mildew 
 
 The powdery mildew of the apple is chiefly prevalent 
 in the Pacific coast states, although it occurs on nursery 
 stock throughout most of the country. It is character- 
 ized by the formation of a whitish mould over the surface 
 of the affected twigs. 
 
 CONTROL: Mildew does not yield readily to the standard 
 sprays, especially bordeaux mixture, but it may be controlled 
 by applications of finely divided sulphur, such as is obtained 
 when lime-sulphur made up at the rate of one gallon to 50 gal- 
 lons of water are mixed with three pounds of iron sulphate. 
 This results in the formation of a blackish precipitate. To this 
 mixture arsenate of lead may be added, and applications made 
 as for codling moth control. 
 
 Blight 
 
 Twig blight or fire blight of the apple is gaining 
 more prominence each year as its destructiveness be- 
 comes more acute. It is caused by a bacterium, the 
 same germ which causes fire blight in pears and quinces. 
 In the apple it usually manifests itself by destroying the 
 cluster of blossoms and the spur on which they are borne, 
 and to a considerable extent, killing the twigs. Young 
 trees often are seriously damaged by blight. It usually 
 runs its course in a few days, although its presence may 
 not be known until the leaves begin to wither and turn 
 brown. 
 
 Blight cannot be controlled by spraying. It can be 
 partially controlled by cutting out the affected twigs
 
 Diseases and Their Control [75] 
 
 as soon as observed, but in a commercial way that is 
 practically impossible. It is better to avoid the planting 
 of susceptible varieties such as Jonathan and Yellow 
 Transparent. 
 
 Disease of the Pear 
 
 Fire Blight 
 
 This troublesome disease of the pear is caused by a 
 bacterium which over-winters in canker on the bark, 
 from which a syrupy fluid may ooze in minute drops 
 early in the spring. These drops are teeming with bac- 
 teria and some of this ooze gets on the feet and beaks 
 of insects and is carried to the blossoms and tender 
 growing shoots. Here they are deposited in the nec- 
 taries of the blossoms or in punctures made by the in- 
 sects and begin their career of destruction. 
 
 Spraying will not control the disease. The only 
 known means of control is to cut out the blighted twigs, 
 being careful to sterilize the pruning tool with corrosive 
 sublimate after making each cut, then to wet the wound 
 with the same solution, and as soon as it is dry to coat 
 it with white lead and oil or with asphaltum. 
 
 Diseases of the Peach 
 
 Scab 
 
 Scab or "freckles" on. the peach presents much the 
 same appearance as scab on apples. The affected area 
 is black and a considerable portion of the surface may 
 be involved, in which case the fruit will crack and the 
 fruit become more or less lopsided. The blackened, 
 freckled appearance of scabbed fruit is often thought to 
 be a normal condition and not due to a disease. But 
 markets are discriminating more and more against scabby 
 peaches and the peach grower who neglects this disease 
 is losing money thereby.
 
 [ 76 ] Diseases and Their Control 
 
 CONTROL: Peach scab is readily controlled with an 
 application of self-boiled lime-sulphur made about one month 
 after the petals fall, and a second application of the same mix- 
 ture three or four weeks later. Usually the first application 
 is sufficient. 
 
 Brown Rot 
 
 This disease occurs most frequently and is most de- 
 structive in the warmer portions of the country, and in 
 favorable seasons has caused enormous losses. Its 
 greatest destructiveness comes on the fruit, which may 
 be attacked just as it is ripening and bring about the 
 complete loss of the fruit before it has time to reach the 
 market. It also occurs on the limbs where it forms 
 cankers, and on the leaves. 
 
 Brown rot is most familiar as brown mould on the 
 rotting fruit, and is readily distinguished by the fact that 
 the mould appears in small tufts placed closed together. 
 Fruit that is infected with this disease rots quickly, and 
 the disease may attack the fruit at any stage from the 
 blossom to the maturity. Fruit that is injured in some 
 manner, as by the puncture of curculio is much more sub- 
 ject to this disease than fruit not so punctured. 
 
 CONTROL: Peaches which are sprayed with self -boiled 
 lime-sulphur just after the shucks fall from the newly set fruit 
 and again in about three weeks or a month rarely suffer any 
 appreciable loss from brown rot This is especially true if 
 arsenate of lead is added to the spray mixture in order to con- 
 trol the curculio. 
 
 Leaf-Curl 
 
 This name is descriptive of the disease. It occurs 
 early in the spring and causes the leaves to curl and 
 twist some of which become mouldy in appearance. The 
 affected leaves soon fall and the tree must make a new 
 crop from the dormant buds. 
 
 CONTROL: While peach leaf curl is an exceedingly seri- 
 ous disease in the cooler portion of the country it yields 
 readily to any of the standard fungicides, when these are applied 
 early enough in the season. Spraying should be done before 
 the buds swell in the spring, or the application may be made
 
 Diseases and Their Control [ 77 ] 
 
 in the fall with lime-sulphur as for San Jose scale. Spraying 
 done after the buds swell in the spring is useless. 
 
 Diseases of the Plum 
 
 Brown Rot 
 
 This is the same disease as occurs on peaches and 
 cherries and control is effected in the same way. 
 
 Black Knot 
 
 Plums and cherries suffer much damage from the 
 fungus which causes the formation of conspicuous black 
 knots on the twigs and limbs. Severe attacks are com- 
 mon and the growing of plums becomes a discourag- 
 ing business unless the knots are cut out and burned 
 immediately. That is the most effective measure of con- 
 trol. It should be done co-operatively by the entire 
 neighborhood, and wild plum trees treated in a similar 
 manner. Several applications of bordeaux mixture is 
 also helpful, as spores are liberated from the knots 
 throughout the entire year. 
 
 Diseases of the Cherry 
 
 Cherry Leaf Blfeht 
 
 This disease causes a yellowing of the foliage early 
 in the summer, usually in June, with the consequent 
 dropping of the leaves. It occurs on bearing trees and 
 nursery stock. 
 
 CONTROL: Spray the trees with lime-sulphur, one to 
 50 to which one and one-quarter pounds of iron sulphate is 
 added. Make the first application when the shucks are falling 
 from the newly set fruit; make a second application two weeks 
 later; a third application just after the fruit has been picked 
 and a fourth application about four weeks later if necessary. 
 
 Brown Rot 
 
 This is the same disease that attacks the peach, and 
 it is controlled in the same manner. Or where spraying
 
 [ 78 ] Diseases and Their Control 
 
 is done as above described for cherry leaf spot, the brown 
 rot and mildew will also be controlled. 
 
 Mildew 
 
 This disease is usually found on the young sprouts 
 and tips of the branches where it affects the foliage and 
 wood. The surface of the infected parts becomes whitish 
 in appearance because of the growth of the mould, and 
 when the disease is allowed to go uncontrolled, it will 
 cause the defoliation of the tree. 
 
 CONTROL: Mildew may be controlled by the same spray 
 as above given for cherry leaf spot. Add arsenate of lead to 
 the first two applications for the curculio. 
 
 Diseases of the Grape 
 
 Black Rot 
 
 This world wide disease of the grape in some years 
 causes great losses to grape growers, although it is not 
 equally serious every season. It is a fungous disease 
 which appears on the leaves as small brown spots, and 
 later on the fruit will turn black and shrivel up. 
 
 CONTROL: Thorough spraying with bordeaux mixture 
 will hold the disease in check. The first application should be 
 made when the second leaves appear; a second application 
 should be made before the blossoms open; a third after the 
 blossoms have fallen, and at intervals of ten days thereafter 
 in years favorable for the disease. Each application should be 
 made with great thoroughness. 
 
 Mildew 
 
 Two destructive mildews occur on the grapes. One 
 produces a mouldy appearance on the leaves, tender 
 growing shoots and clusters of young grapes. This is 
 the downy mildew. The other produces yellowish or 
 whitish spots over the leaves, producing a mottled ap- 
 pearance. These spots may run together and cover the 
 entire leaf. The berries will be attacked, dwarfed, and 
 caused to drop. The surface of these yellow spots will 
 be found to have a mouldy appearance among which are
 
 Diseases and Their Control [ 79 ] 
 
 minute black or orange colored bodies. This is the pow- 
 dery mildew. 
 
 CONTROL: Vines that are treated for black rot usually 
 do not suffer from powdery mildew to a great extent, and 
 downy mildew is completely controlled. Grapes of European 
 origin should be dusted with sulphur, but not so with Ameri- 
 can varieties, for the control of powdery mildew. 
 
 Diseases of the Raspberry and Blackberry 
 
 Anthracnose 
 
 Raspberry and blackberry canes affected by anthrac- 
 nose show a spotted appearance. The spots at first are 
 small and purplish, but as they increase in size they 
 become more or less elliptical and the center turns 
 whitish and slightly raised above the healthy tissue. In 
 more aggravated cases the canes will become cankered, 
 the bark splits lengthwise and the canes take on a decided 
 unhealthy appearance. 
 
 CONTROL: After the fruiting season is over, clean out 
 all of the old canes, keep down the weeds, and when doing the 
 annual pruning, cut out all canes showing infection with the 
 disease. Make a thorough application of lime-sulphur, two 
 and one-half to 50, before the leaves appear; make a second 
 application when the young shoots are about six inches long 
 with lime-sulphur, one and one-half to 50, and a third appli- 
 cation just before the bloom appears with the same dilution of 
 lime-sulphur. Later sprayings may be necessary and the time 
 of application will depend on seasonal conditions. Anthracnose 
 is a troublesome disease to control and only persistent effort 
 in its control will pay. Cultural measures which keep the plan- 
 tation in a vigorous condition is essential and will go a long 
 ways toward keeping the plantation healthy. 
 
 Orange Rust 
 
 This is a well known raspberry and blackberry dis- 
 ease, producing the characteristic orange colored rust 
 on the under surface of the leaves in the spring and 
 early summer. Affected leaves are smaller than normal 
 leaves, and after the scores are liberated, the leaves die, 
 but the affected plants are stunted and not killed. 
 
 CONTROL: The fungus is perennial; that is it lives over 
 from year to year in the cames and roots of the affected plants,
 
 [80] Diseases and Their Control 
 
 and reappears each season. On this account, spraying is of 
 little service and control measures must rely on digging out 
 the affected plants and burning them as soon as the disease is 
 observed. 
 
 Leaf Spot 
 
 Blackberries and dewberries frequently are consider- 
 ably damaged by a fungus which causes the formation 
 of many small diseased areas on the leaves early in sum- 
 mer. When these spots are numerous the leaves will 
 dry up and die, thereby resulting in weakened plants 
 and lessened fruitfulness. 
 
 CONTROL: Spraying with bordeaux mixture before the 
 leaves appear in the spring and again just before the blossoms 
 appear will control this disease. 
 
 Diseases of the Strawberry 
 
 Mildew 
 
 When strawberry plants are affected by mildew, the 
 leaves curl upward and present some such appearance 
 as plants suffering from drought. On close examination 
 the mildew will be observed on the lower surface of the 
 leaves. The fungus also attacks the berries, which are 
 rendered tasteless and of no market value as they dry 
 up before reaching maturity. 
 
 CONTROL: Little is known about means of controlling 
 mildew. But it has been observed that fields that are mowed 
 and renewed immediately after fruiting, and thoroughly sprayed 
 for rust suffer but little from mildew. 
 
 Leaf Spot or Rust 
 
 Some varieties of strawberries suffer greatly from 
 leaf spot fungus, which causes the formation on the 
 leaves of small circular dead spots which are bordered 
 with red or purple ring. These spots may become so 
 numerous as to cause the foliage to die. Old leaves are 
 more seriously affected than young leaves. 
 
 CONTROL: Use varieties known to be least affected. 
 Spray with bordeaux mixture before the blossoms open. Mow 
 and burn the foliage as soon as the fruit is picked, and should 
 the disease reappear later in the season make another applica- 
 tion of bordeaux mixture.
 
 Hayes Sprayer in a Virginia Orchard^ 
 
 Hayes Sprayer in an Illinois Orchard 
 
 [ Page 81 ]
 
 The Hayes Fruit-Fog Gun is SPEED equipment. One man handles the 
 full capacity of a power sprayer and will spray an entire orchard as quickly 
 as three or four men with regular equipment. 
 
 A simple twist of the handle adjusts the nozzle to shoot a column of 
 spray to the very top of the tallest tree. This column is composed of mil- 
 lions of minute particles and when it reaches the top of the tree diffuses into 
 
 [ Page 82 ]
 
 a FRUIT-FOG spray a mist which penetrates thoroughly and does a job 
 of maximum thoroughness for gun spraying. 
 
 For "close-up" work the operator merely turns the handle the opposite 
 way, making a wide, soft spray which covers an arc of 90. This "close-up" 
 spray is a FRUIT-FOG spray so finely atomized that it resembles a mist. 
 Thousands of orchardists who have witnessed increased yields after Fruit- 
 Fogging their trees, know its wonderful efficiency. 
 
 [ Page 83 ]
 
 Hayes Barrel Sprayer Operated from a Wagon 
 
 Hayes Sprayer in an Oregon Orchard 
 
 [ Page 84 ]
 
 Diseases and Their Control [85] 
 
 Diseases of Vegetables 
 Those Affecting the Potato 
 
 Early Blight 
 
 This fungous disease appears in the North early in 
 the season while in the South it occurs on the fall crop 
 of potatoes. The disease is marked by the appearance 
 of black spots on the leaves, which spots as they enlarge 
 are marked by faint concentric rings. Eventally the 
 leaves yellow and die with the consequent decrease in 
 the yield of potatoes. Control of this disease is affected 
 by spraying as described for late blight. 
 
 Late Blight 
 
 By far the greater loss to the potato crop comes 
 from attacks of the late blight fungus. This causes the 
 most serious and destructive of all potato diseases, and 
 its control is of far greater consequence than the con- 
 trol of the ever present Colorado potato beetle. Although 
 late blight may not occur in a dangerous way every year 
 its ability to create sudden havoc is so great that every 
 potato grower, no matter whether he has but a small 
 patch in the dooryard or a large acreage of potatoes, 
 should forego the safeguarding of his crop by thorough 
 and persistent spraying. Several applications of bor- 
 deaux mixture and arsenate of lead give protection from 
 this disease, and control many of the other pests of the 
 potato at the same time. That this has a distinct value 
 in increasing the yield of potato tubers is indicated by 
 results obtained in several states. In New York state, 
 the experiment station found that in a ten-year period 
 an average gain of 60 bushels an acre was obtained; in 
 Vermont, over a 20-year period the average gain 
 amounted to 105 bushels per acre. 
 
 Late blight develops after the potatoes have blos- 
 somed, and is most severe toward the end of the grow- 
 ing season. It appears as purplish or blackish areas,
 
 [ 86 ] Diseases and Their Control 
 
 which if examined when wet with dew, show a deli- 
 cate, powdery bloom on the undersides of the leaves. 
 If weather conditions are warm and humid, the entire 
 field may die in a very few days, and a foul odor, char- 
 acteristic of the disease will be evident. 
 
 The blighting of the foliage is followed by a decay 
 of the tubers, which usually appears as a dry rot. 
 
 CONTROL FOR BLIGHTS AND INSECTS: When the 
 first evidence of flea beetles or Colorado potato beetles is ob- 
 served make an application of bordeaux mixture and arsenate 
 of lead. Repeat this application every ten days or two weeks 
 to keep all of the foliage protected. In the North, after the 
 middle of July, it may be necessary to make applications every 
 five or seven days, especially if the weather is showery and 
 warm. 
 
 Tip Burn 
 
 When hot dry weather follows a wet period, and 
 especially when the potato field suffers from attacks of 
 flea beetles, aphis or leaf hoppers, the margins and tips 
 of the leaves will die and curl resulting in a lessened 
 yield. This is purely a physiological trouble and not 
 due to a fungus. 
 
 CONTROL: When the potato field is sprayed as above, 
 the damage from tip burn will be greatly lessened. 
 
 Scab 
 
 This is a disease of the tubers, where it appears as 
 roughened spots or warts, more or less numerous accord- 
 ing to the degree of infection. 
 
 CONTROL: The scab fungus persists in the soil from 
 year to year, and potatoes should be rotated with other crops 
 and not planted on the same soil oftener than once in three 
 years, particularly if scab is prevalent on the crop. Seed 
 potatoes should be soaked for one and one-half hours in a 
 solution of formalin made at the rate of one pound of formalin 
 to 30 gallons of water. This is equivalent to approximately 
 one-half fluid ounce of formalin to one gallon of water. Then 
 cut and plant as usual.
 
 Diseases and Their Control [ 87 ] 
 
 Disease of Celery 
 
 Leaf-Blight 
 
 Two leaf-blights affect celery, one appearing early in 
 the seed bed, the other on mature plants and continuing 
 after harvest. In some seasons these fungi cause serious 
 losses through the destruction of the leaf surface. 
 
 CONTROL: Both may be controlled by spraying with 
 bordeaux mixture when the spotting of the leaves is first ob- 
 served. Bordeaux mixture should not be used within two or 
 three weeks of the time the plants are cut for market. 
 
 Disease of Cucumber 
 
 Mildew 
 
 Downy mildew is a most serious disease of the 
 cucumber, and is commonly known among growers as 
 blight. This fungus causes the leaves to become mottled 
 with yellow, show dead spots and then dry up. 
 
 CONTROL: Make an application of bordeaux mixture 
 when the plants arc beginning to run, and repeat at intervals 
 of ten days until the vines cover the field. 
 
 Disease of Beans 
 
 Anthracnose 
 
 Bean growers sometimes call this disease "rust." It 
 is caused by a fungus and is carried over from season to 
 season on the seed where it appears as a small black or 
 dead spot on the seed. On green beans, anthracnose is 
 conspicuous on the pods, where it forms black, rough- 
 ened spots of considerable size on the pods. When these 
 spots are numerous the pods are unfit for market. It 
 also attacks the leaves and causes them to wither and 
 dry up. 
 
 CONTROL: Since the disease can be detected quite easily 
 on the seeds, careful hand sorting of the seeds so as to throw 
 out all affected seeds will lessen the possibility of infection in 
 the field. Application of bordeaux mixture will render the 
 foliage less liable to infection. The first application should be 
 made when the beans appear above the soil, a second applica- 
 tion when the first pair of leaves expand and a third when the 
 pods have set.
 
 [ 88 ] Diseases and Their Control 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 How to Spray 
 
 VEN at its best, spraying is a messy job. There- 
 fore, when you get ready to spray, put on clothes 
 that you don't mind having spoiled if a little 
 spray mixture gets on them. This applies especially to 
 the back-yard gardener who has a few potato vines or a 
 current bush to spray at the end of his day's work. 
 
 Be Thorough in Your Spraying 
 
 It is better to spray one plant well than to spatter a 
 little spray over the whole place. Spraying is merely a 
 preventive. The parts of the plant untouched by spray 
 are unprotected. Approach your plant, no matter whether 
 it is an apple tree or a cucumber plant, with full deter- 
 mination that you will spray it thoroughly, and then go 
 at it. Hold the nozzle far enough away from the leaves 
 that the solid part of the spray does not strike, but close 
 enough so that the fine mist, the Fruit-Fog, can wet the 
 foliage and float through the tree. This fine mist, the 
 Fruit-Fog, will completely cover the leaves without drip- 
 ping. That is the ideal condition to strive for, and a 
 little experience will teach you just how close or how 
 far away from the leaves is the best place for the noz- 
 zle. It will vary from six inches to six feet according 
 to the size of the spraying outfit, size of the nozzle and 
 the pressure that is used. 
 
 Get Ready Early 
 
 Too much stress cannot be laid on this. Get your 
 sprayer before the last minute. This is especially im- 
 portant in the case of fruit growers who have just bought 
 or leased an orchard, or who are buying to replace a new 
 machine. If you would normally make your first appli- 
 cation of spray in February, buy your sprayer the fall 
 before. That will give time for the machine to reach 
 you and for you to give it a thorough try-out before you
 
 Diseases and Their Control [ 89 ] 
 
 will need to take it to the orchard for work. Many good 
 crops of fruit are lost each year because of this neglect 
 of buying the sprayer until the very last minute. Then 
 if the freight is delayed, the spraying cannot be done 
 on time, and the results are less satisfactory. 
 
 Buy your sprayer early. 
 
 Buy your spray materials early, too. Prices on mate- 
 rials are usually lower in the fall than in the spring, and 
 early buying saves money as well as time. 
 
 Where you are using a pump you have, be very sure 
 the pump is cleaned and oiled and all ready for use. Give 
 the whole outfit a thorough overhauling well in advance 
 of the time it will be used. Replace all rubber and 
 leather gaskets and pump packing with new parts. Some 
 very necessary part may be too badly worn to last and 
 will need repairing or replacement. Where this is not 
 discovered in advance it means delay at a critical time. 
 Overhaul your sprayer and give it a good tryout well in 
 advance of the spraying season. Then be sure to drain 
 out all of the water from pump, tank and engine to pre- 
 vent breakage from freezing. 
 
 Be sure of an adequate supply of water. Droughts, 
 breakage of the irrigation ditch, overflows, and many 
 other conditions have prematurely cut short a spraying 
 program. Be sure of a good water supply, and if pos- 
 sible use clear water rather than the muddy water of 
 ponds. The grit in such water causes excessive wear on 
 the spray pump. In orchards of large acreage, it is a 
 money-making investment to have a water wagon that 
 will keep the sprayer supplied. Prune the trees before 
 spraying. A better job of spraying can be done and mate- 
 rial will be saved. 
 
 Use a Spray Gun 
 
 Where power sprayers are operated, it is distinct 
 economy of both material and labor to use a spray gun 
 instead of rods and nozzles. Spray guns are simply noz-
 
 [ 90 ] Diseases and Their Control 
 
 zles of large capacity and are used without extension 
 rods. Their construction is such that the stream may 
 be varied from a wide angle, short distance spray for 
 use on low branches, to a narrow angle, long distance 
 spray that will reach the top-most branches of tall trees. 
 One gun will use the full capacity of a large power outfit. 
 
 Hayes* Fruit-Fog gun is typical of the better makes 
 of spray guns. It has a length of 23 inches and weighs 
 slightly less than two and one-half pounds. It is made 
 entirely of brass, with a large nozzle at one end while 
 the hose connection and shut-off handle are at the other 
 end. The gun is opened for spraying by a slight twist 
 of the handle to the left, pulling the handle to you at the 
 same time. It is shut off by reversing this movement. 
 
 High pressure is of utmost importance in gun spray- 
 ing, and where the pump is working at 300 pounds, a 
 Fruit-Fog gun simply eats up the job. Because of the 
 lightning-quick control, for opening or closing the nozzle, 
 spraying with a gun is much more economical than when 
 the same work is done with rods and nozzles. There is 
 no waste of solution when passing from tree to tree. 
 There is no drenching of the foliage, and it is surprising 
 how little of the spray will be blown back on the operator. 
 
 For the lower branches of trees, the wide angle spray 
 from the gun is best. With a Hayes* Fruit-Fog gun this 
 is obtained by a slight twist and pull on the handle to 
 the left. A notch in the cam surface inside the nozzle 
 catches a pin in the shut-off rod and holds it firmly. 
 For the high tops, a slight twist of the handle still more 
 to the left draws the shut-off rod below the center hole 
 in the whirl chamber, permitting the liquid to pass 
 straight through the hole in the disc. In this case, the 
 solution will be driven from ten to twenty feet from the 
 nozzle in a fog like stream. Such a spray is admirable 
 for reaching the high tops of trees. It does away entirely 
 with the need for extension rods and thousands of fruit 
 growers are enthusiastic in their praise.
 
 Diseases and Their Control [ 91 ] 
 
 When using a spray gun, the operator should be care- 
 ful to select a disc that has a hole of such size that the 
 pressure on the pump will not be reduced below the 
 desired point. A hole that is too large will let the pres- 
 sure drop. A hole that is too small will not utilize the 
 full capacity of the sprayer. Remember, the gun in speed 
 equipment. It is intended that one gun shall use the full 
 capacity of the sprayer. Use hose of large diameter and 
 short length. For general purposes and with power out- 
 fits having a capacity less than 10 gallons a minute, the 
 hose should not be over 30 feet in length nor smaller 
 than one-half inch in diameter. For sprayers of larger 
 capacity, or greater lengths than 30 feet, use three-quar- 
 ter inch hose. Spray guns give best results when oper- 
 ated at high pressure, and pressure losses are due to 
 using hose of too great a length or of too small diameter. 
 
 When you buy a spray gun, study the directions for 
 using it. The manufacturers have done much experi- 
 menting with their guns, and in their directions, they 
 supply you with exact information which will enable you 
 to get the best results. Don't expect to get good results 
 from the gun with a barrel sprayer operated by hand. 
 Such a pump does not have sufficient capacity or power. 
 Do not try to use two guns on one sprayer unless you 
 use a much smaller disc than is necessary where the full 
 capacity of the sprayer is being handled by one gun. 
 Further, do not expect as good distribution of spray or 
 economy of labor where you use two guns with one 
 sprayer. 
 
 No invention of recent years is of more value to fruit 
 growers than the spray gun. It has eliminated much of 
 the drudgery of spraying. It enables one man to do the 
 work of two, and do it better. It reduces the quantity 
 of material required to cover the trees, as the higher 
 pressure obtained from a gun gives a more finely atom- 
 ized spray, and consequently better distribution. The 
 spray gun is a money maker for the fruit grower who 
 uses a power sprayer.
 
 [ 92 ] Diseases and Their Control 
 
 Spraying Program 
 
 Apples 
 
 DORMANT: Make application in early spring just as the 
 buds are beginning to swell. Use lime-sulphur having a strength 
 of 32 degrees, diluted at the rate of one to eight. If aphis 
 eggs are found on the branches, delay this application until the 
 buds are beginning to burst and the young aphids are observed. 
 Then to the above solution add nicotine sulphate of 40 per cent 
 strength at the rate of three-fourths pint to 100 gallons of spray. 
 
 Summer Sprays 
 
 1st Spray As the buds are showing pink, use lime-sulphur 
 (32 degrees Beaume) at the rate of one to 40, to which arsenate 
 of lead is added, two pounds paste or one pound powder to 
 50 gallons. 
 
 2nd Spray When the petals have all fallen. This is the 
 important spray for codling moth control. Use the same solu- 
 tions as in 1st summer spray. 
 
 3rd Spray From ten days to two weeks later repeat with 
 the same solution. 
 
 4th Spray Latter part of July. Repeat with same solu- 
 tion. Bordeaux mixture instead of lime-sulphur may be used 
 in this application in case blotch or bitter rot must be com- 
 bated. 
 
 5th Spray It is not necessary that more applications be 
 made except in cases of bitter rot, when the time of applying 
 will be governed by weather conditions. Bordeaux mixture 
 should be used, as lime-sulphur is not effective in bitter rot 
 control. 
 
 Peaches Cherries Plums 
 
 DORMANT: Make application before buds swell in early 
 spring, using lime-sulphur as in the case of apples. This 
 application is effective for peach leaf curl as well as San Jose 
 scale. 
 
 Summer Sprays 
 
 1st Spray When the shucks are all off the newly formed 
 fruits, apply self-boiled lime-sulphur containing two pounds 
 arsenate of lead to 50 gallons. 
 
 2nd Spray Make a second application of the same solu- 
 tion two or three weeks later, except in the case of early 
 cherries.
 
 Diseases and Their Control [93] 
 
 3rd Spray Late peaches, cherries and plums may need 
 a third application about a month before the fruit ripens, to 
 protect from brown rot. Omit the arsenate of lead in this 
 application. 
 
 Self-boiled lime-sulphur may be omitted from the first sum- 
 mer application, using arsenate of lead alone. Commercial 
 brands should not be used on peaches since they may seriously 
 injure the foliage, unless diluted at the rate of one to 70. 
 
 Grapes 
 
 1st Spray Use bordeaux mixture when the shoots are 
 eight or ten inches long. 
 
 2nd Spray Use bordeaux mixture and arsenate of lead 
 just before blooming, (3rd spray) repeating when the blos- 
 soms have fallen. 
 
 4th Spray Repeat in about ten days. 
 
 When leaf hoppers are present add nicotine sulphate to the 
 bordeaux mixture. 
 
 Do not use lime-sulphur on grapes as it has a tendency 
 to dwarf the vines. 
 
 Currants and Gooseberries 
 
 1st Spray When scales are present, use a dormant appli- 
 cation of lime-sulphur. If scales are not present this applica- 
 tion may be omitted. 
 
 2nd Spray If worms appear apply bordeaux mixture and 
 arsenate of lead as the leaves appear. Repeat before the fruit 
 is one-fourth grown. Any later applications should be of helle- 
 bore or pyrethrum to avoid making the fruit unfit for use. 
 
 How to Spray the Garden 
 
 Spraying is an important operation in the garden, just 
 as in the orchard, for the control of insects and fungi. 
 But it is a simpler operation as large power sprayers 
 are unnecessary, except in the case of large truck farms. 
 Small sprayers, such as the Hayes Bucket, Boss Com- 
 pressed Air and Atomizers find their greatest use in 
 the garden. Less definite spraying schedules can be 
 provided for the garden than for the orchard as climatic 
 conditions and dates at which the various crops are 
 planted have a great deal to do with the dates at which
 
 [ 94 ] Diseases and Their Control 
 
 any spraying may be required. It behooves the gar- 
 dener, however, to be on the sharp lookout for insects or 
 disease and spray accordingly. Some garden crops sel- 
 dom need to be sprayed, at any time, while others are 
 greatly benefited whether insects or disease are present 
 or not. This is especially true in the case of potatoes. 
 In spraying garden crops remember to use poisons, such 
 as arsenate of lead or Paris green for chewing insects; 
 nicotine sulphate for sucking insects, such as plant lice; 
 and bordeaux mixture for fungous diseases. 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 Potato seed should be soaked one and one-half hours 
 in a solution of formalin, made at the rate of one pound 
 of formaldehyde in thirty gallons of water or one ounce 
 in two gallons of water. Then cut and plant as usual. 
 This treatment is for the control of scab on the tubers. 
 
 1st Spray This should be made when the potatoes are not 
 more than six inches high and be repeated at intervals of not 
 more than ten days until five or six, sometimes as many as ten 
 applications have been made. This is more important in locali- 
 ties where early and late blights are present than elsewhere. 
 The materials to use are bordeaux mixture and arsenate of lead 
 with nicotine sulphate when aphis are present. The spraying 
 should be thoroughly done. Just slopping on the spray mix- 
 ture in any old way is a waste of time and material. But by 
 making the application with a suitable sprayer, wetting both 
 sides of every leaf on the plants, and being sure that the spray 
 mixture is made up in the right way, is certain to give success. 
 
 These repeated applications of spray are an insurance against 
 crop losses. The popular opinion that "bugs" are the im- 
 portant thing to spray for is only part of the truth. In addition 
 to bugs, are the flea beetles, blister beetles, aphis, early blight, 
 late blight, and tip burn. Each of these pests and diseases 
 takes its toll from the potato crop, and when all act together, 
 is it any wonder the crop may not make more than fifty bushels 
 to the acre? Where the vines are systematically sprayed with 
 bordeaux mixture and arsenate of lead from the time the plants 
 appear above the soil until the vines are mature, they will have 
 been protected from the devastations of insects and disease and 
 all of their energy expended on the production of tubers rather 
 than upon fattening the bugs,
 
 Diseases and Their Control [ 95 ] 
 
 Cucumbers, Melons and Squash 
 
 1st Spray When the plants are six to eight inches high, 
 spray with bordeaux mixture and arsenate of lead, taking care 
 to wet upper and lower surfaces of each leaf. Where aphis 
 are present, add nicotine sulphate to this spray. Make a sec- 
 ond application a week later, and subsequent sprayings every 
 week or ten days until all danger from damage by insects and 
 diseases is past. This will protect the plants from damage 
 by the striped beetle, flee beetles, aphis and mildew. When 
 squash bugs are present, trap the bugs, or kill the young with 
 an application of kerosene emulsion. This application must be 
 made separately as it cannot be mixed with bordeaux, 
 
 Cabbage and Cauliflower 
 
 1st Spray When the plants have established themselves 
 after transplanting, make an application of bordeaux mixture 
 and arsenate of lead, repeating at intervals of a week or ten 
 days until the plants are beginning to head. In the case of 
 cauliflower, spraying should not be done after the "flower" has 
 begun to form. Cabbage, however, may be sprayed until the 
 head is almost large enough to cut. Because of the peculiar 
 non-wettable surface of cabbage leaves, it is necessary to use 
 resin sticker in the spray in order to make it stick. 
 
 In addition to the green worms, cabbage and cauliflower 
 are susceptible to diseases and some very troublesome insects. 
 One of the most troublesome of these is the cabbage aphis. 
 When this pest is present, nicotine sulphate should be added 
 to the spray, and applied thoroughly and with high pressure. 
 Aphis are becoming a formidable foe to cabbage throughout 
 much of the country. 
 
 Celery 
 
 Celery should be sprayed at frequent intervals from the 
 time it is transplanted to the field up to nearly the time it is 
 ready for use, with bordeaux mixture only. When the plants 
 are young, if leaf eating insects appear, arsenate of lead should 
 be used with the bordeaux, but the poison should be omitted 
 from later applications on account of the danger of poisoning. 
 
 Tomatoes 
 
 This crop is subject to almost the same insects and diseases 
 as the potato, and should be sprayed in the same way. 
 
 Wh itewash ing 
 
 Whitewash is one of the cheapest and most service- 
 able of paints that do not contain oil, and since white-
 
 [ 96 ] Diseases and Their Control 
 
 wash is so easily and evenly applied with a sprayer it 
 is surprising that more of it is not used. Nothing makes 
 buildings, fences, cellars have a more attractive appear- 
 ance than a nice coat of whitewash. What could look 
 prettier than a group of snow-white buildings among 
 green trees? Indeed, every owner of a spraying machine 
 should make use of his sprayer in applying an occasional 
 coat of whitewash to his fences and outbuildings, and 
 whiten up the dark interiors of his barns. There are 
 many different ways of making up whitewash, and since 
 colorings of different kinds can be mixed with white- 
 wash, it is easily possible to break the glaring white with 
 almost any tint desired. In applying whitewash with a 
 sprayer^ it makes a smoother looking job to go over the 
 surface in one direction only, and when that coat has 
 dried, to go over it again at right angles to the first coat. 
 The following are a few of the standard recipes for mak- 
 ing whitewash. 
 
 Ordinary Whitewash 
 
 This is made by slaking about ten pounds of quick lime with 
 two gallons of water. The lime is placed in a pail and the 
 water poured over it, after which the pail is covered with an 
 old piece of carpet or cloth and allowed to stand for about 
 an hour. With an insufficient amount of water the lime is 
 "scorched" and not all converted into hydrate; on the other 
 hand, too much water retards the slaking by lowering the heat. 
 
 "Scorched" lime is generally lumpy and translucent, hence 
 the use of the proper amount of water for slaking and an after 
 addition of water to bring it to a brush or sprayer consistency. 
 
 For use in a sprayer all whitewash should be strained 
 through a piece of cheese cloth. 
 
 Whitewash for Walls and Ceilings 
 
 (1) Sixty-two pounds (1 bushel) quicklime, slake with 15 
 gallons water. Keep barrel covered until steam ceases to rise. 
 Stir occasionally to prevent scorching. 
 
 (2) Two and one-half pounds rye flour, beat up in a half 
 gallon of cold water, then add two gallons of boiling water. 
 
 (3) Two and one-half pounds common rock salt, dissolve in 
 two and one-half gallons of hot water.
 
 Diseases and Their Control [ 97 ] 
 
 Mix (2) and (3), then pour into (1) and stir until all is well 
 mixed. 
 
 This is the whitewash used in the large implement factories 
 and recommended by the insurance companies. The above 
 formula gives a product of perfect brush consistency. Add 
 more water for use in a sprayer. 
 
 Whitewash for Buildings, Fences, etc. 
 
 (1) Sixty-two pounds (1 bushel) quicklime, slake with 12 
 gallons of hot water. 
 
 (2) Two pounds common table salt, one pound sulphate of 
 zinc, dissolve in two gallons of boiling water. 
 
 (3) Two gallons skimmed milk. 
 
 Pour (2) into (1), then add the milk (3) and mix thor- 
 oughly. If too thick to apply with the sprayer, add more water. 
 
 Lighthouse Whitewash 
 
 (1) Sixty- two pounds (1 bushel) quicklime, slake with 12 
 gallons of hot water. 
 
 (2) Twelve pounds rock salt, dissolve in six gallons of 
 boiling water. 
 
 (3) Six pounds Portland cement. 
 Pour (2) into (1) and then add (3). 
 
 Good Outdoor Whitewash 
 
 A standard recipe for whitewash, issued by the Light- 
 house Board of the Treasury Department, said to be very 
 good for outdoor exposure is as follows : 
 
 Slake half a bushel of quicklime with boiling water, keeping 
 it covered during the process. Strain it and add a peck of salt, 
 dissolve in warm water; three pounds of ground rice, put in 
 boiling water and boiled to a thin paste; half a pound of pow- 
 dered Spanish whiting and a pound of clear glue, dissolved in 
 warm water; mix these well together and let the mixture stand 
 for several days. Keep the wash thus prepared in a kettle or 
 portable furnace; and when used put it on as hot as possible. 
 
 Disinfectant Whitewash 
 
 The following recipe for a disinfectant whitewash is 
 recommended by the Iowa Experiment Station as being 
 especially suitable for the interior of poultry houses,
 
 [ 98 ] Diseases and Their Control 
 
 barns, etc., and one application will serve the same pur- 
 pose as several applications of stock dip. There should 
 be two applications made each year, one in spring and 
 one in fall, using a high pressure spray pump : 
 
 (1) Hydrated lime, \y 2 pecks. 
 
 (2) Salt, 2 pounds. 
 
 (3) Commercial lime-sulphur, 4 gallons. 
 
 (4) Water, 40 gallons. 
 
 Equivalent amounts for a small quantity of the above 
 whitewash are approximately as follows : 
 
 (1) Hydrated lime, 1 heaping quart. 
 
 (2) Salt, 3 tablespoonfuls. 
 
 (3) Commercial lime-sulphur, I 1 /* quarts. 
 
 (4) Water, 4 gallons. 
 
 Remember 
 
 The washes which contain milk, flour, or glue are not 
 to be advised for use in damp interiors, owing to danger 
 of decomposition of the organic matter. For such loca- 
 tions it is better to use one of the formulae containing 
 none of these ingredients. When whitewash is applied 
 with a broad whitewash brush, it should be spread lightly 
 over the surface, no attempt being made to brush it in 
 as is the case with an oil paint. 
 
 Alum added to a lime whitewash prevents it rubbing 
 off. An ounce to the gallon is sufficient. 
 
 Flour paste answers the same purpose, but needs zinc 
 sulphate as a preservative. 
 
 Molasses renders the lime more soluble and causes it 
 to penetrate the wood or plaster surface; a pint of mo- 
 lasses to five gallons of whitewash is sufficient. 
 
 Silicate of soda solution (about 35 Beaume) in the 
 proportion of one to ten of whitewash produces a fire- 
 proof cement 
 
 A pound of cheap bar soap dissolved in a gallon of 
 boiling water and added to about five gallons of thick 
 whitewash will give it a gloss like oil paint.
 
 Diseases and Their Control [99] 
 
 In mixing cold water paint, to the dry powder add a 
 small amount of water slowly, mix and work the mass 
 into the form of a thick paste when it should be allowed 
 to stand for a few minutes to become uniformly wet. 
 Then add sufficient water to make a mixture that will 
 flow well through the sprayer. Allow the first coat to 
 dry, before making the second coat, which should be 
 applied at right angles to the first.
 
 [ 100 ] Spraying About the Farm 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 Spraying About the Farm 
 
 HERE are many uses for sprayers on the farm 
 aside from that of spraying fruit trees, potato 
 fields and gardens, or for whitewashing purposes. 
 There is the matter of disinfecting. Live stock quarters 
 need to be disinfected at intervals, and no means of apply- 
 ing disinfectants is better or more economical than with 
 the sprayer. Hog houses can be made more sanitary 
 and losses from cholera materially reduced by frequently 
 spraying the interiors of the hog houses with disinfectant 
 washes or even with whitewash. The dipping of grain 
 for smut control can be made easier and more economical 
 by spraying the solution on the grain. Lice and mites 
 on poultry can be kept in control by an occasional spray- 
 ing of the poultry house interior. Wild mustard in grain 
 fields can be eliminated by proper spraying. Live stock 
 may be protected from annoyance by flies through spray- 
 ing with fly repellant. In many cases, the spraying mach- 
 ine has served a very useful purpose in putting out fires 
 that threatened to consume the dwelling or barn, and as 
 a means of washing the automobile, where water under 
 pressure is not easily obtainable, the sprayer is unequaled. 
 Window washing is made much easier when a nice spray 
 of water can be directed over the glass, and the sprayer 
 used in this manner is indeed a labor saver. Lice on 
 hogs, and ticks on cattle can be controlled readily by 
 spraying, thus rendering the dipping vat unnecessary. 
 
 Disinfecting Live Stock Quarters 
 
 Many of the diseases of farm animals, such as dis- 
 temper, glanders, cholera, tuberculosis, etc., are spread 
 from animal to animal by infected mangers, feed troughs, 
 floors, etc. To disinfect and clean up such places, make 
 an application three times each year of formalin used 
 at the rate of one pound to twenty gallons of water. If
 
 Shade Tree Spraying with a Hayes Triplex 
 
 [ Page 101 ]
 
 Spraying' F lowers with a Boss Compressed Air 
 
 Spraying with a Hayes Bucket Sprayer 
 
 [ Page 102 ]
 
 t& 
 
 Garden Spraying with a Boss Compressed Air 
 
 Hayes Wheelbarrow Sprayer Used in a Garden 
 
 [ Page 103 ]
 
 Spraying Hogs with a Hayes Wheelbarrow Sprayer 
 
 A Handy Outfit for Disinfecting and Whitewashing 
 
 [ Page 104 ]
 
 Spraying About the Farm [ 105 ] 
 
 a little lime is mixed with the solution, it will help to 
 show the surface that has been covered. 
 
 A better plan is to rake up and burn all rubbish about 
 the building and yard occupied by diseased animals, then 
 spray thoroughly, so as to wet or drench with the dis- 
 infectant, all of the interior of the buildings, partition 
 fences with a three per cent solution of compound cresol, 
 U. S. P., to which enough lime has been added to show 
 the surface covered or with some good brand of disin- 
 fectant made for the purpose. All feeding floors and 
 ground surfaces of infected pens should be thoroughly 
 sprayed with the disinfectant. In the case of hog cholera, 
 do away with the wallows, unless they are disinfected 
 frequently and regularly with either of the above. Use 
 air slaked lime freely about the feed yards and floors of 
 hog houses where cholera has existed. 
 
 Disinfecting Grain Seed 
 
 Spray, instead of sprinkle or dipping, the grain seed 
 in a solution of formalin for protection against smut. 
 Shovel the grain over several times, while the spray is 
 being applied, so as to insure an even distribution. It 
 takes about a gallon of solution for a bushel of wheat, 
 and from one and one-half to two gallons for a bushel 
 of oats, barley or millet. Clean flax seed thoroughly 
 before disinfecting, so as to rid the seed of chaff and 
 shriveled seeds. Then spray, while shoveling over the 
 seeds. After treating grain seed, cover with sacks for a 
 few hours or over night. The excess of the solution will 
 be absorbed and the gas acts more effectively on the 
 smut spores that are on the outside of the grain. The 
 grain will swell some, and by measuring before and after 
 treating one can decide how to set the drill so as to sow 
 the proper amount. 
 
 Poultry Mites and Lice 
 
 These creatures that make life miserable for poultry 
 can be kept in good control by occasionally spraying the 
 interior of the poultry house with a disinfectant. No
 
 [ 106 ] Spraying About the Farm 
 
 farm on which poultry are raised, should be without a 
 sprayer, if for no other purpose than that of spraying 
 the poultry house. Before spraying, clean out all manure, 
 straw or litter, and clean out all nest boxes. Make a 
 liberal application of concentrated lime-sulphur solution, 
 just as for dormant spraying apple trees, or with kero- 
 sene emulsion, or with a three per cent solution of com- 
 pound cresol or good brand of commercial louse killer. 
 Apply the spray with force, and wet all cracks, roosts, 
 nest boxes and the dropping boards. Whitewash the 
 interior at least once each summer. 
 
 Kill Weeds by Spraying 
 
 Certain kinds of weeds, such as wild mustard, red 
 sorrel, chickweed, cockle bur, rag weed, dandelion, daisies, 
 wild lettuce, etc., may be more or less completely killed 
 by spraying the plants before they reach the blooming 
 stage, with solutions of iron sulphate or sodium arsenate. 
 The latter chemical is a strong poison and every care 
 must be taken to keep any of it from getting in the mouth. 
 
 The best results in spraying for weed control have 
 come from the treatment of grain fields infested with 
 wild mustard, or timothy meadows containing red sorrel. 
 Spraying such fields with iron sulphate is entirely prac- 
 tical and does not permanently injure the crop, although 
 it may cause the leaves of grain, timothy or clover to 
 be blackened for a few days. Make the application on a 
 calm, warm day when there is no immediate indications 
 of rain for at least twenty-four hours, so that the chemi- 
 cal will have time to act. Where iron sulphate is used, 
 prepare it at the rate of two pounds to one gallon of 
 water. 
 
 Protect Stock from Flies, Ticks, Lice, etc. 
 
 Spraying may take the place of dipping in protecting 
 cattle from some of the parasites which frequently infest 
 them, and affords a convenient and effective method of 
 controlling the annoyance of horn flies. This pest may
 
 Spraying About the Farm [ 107 ] 
 
 be controlled by applying a spray of kerosene emulsion 
 to the animals in the evening as they are being yarded 
 for the night. The most satisfactory means of making 
 the application is to drive the animals through a chute 
 of proper size, on each side of which is a nozzle leading 
 to the sprayer and through which a generous mist of the 
 spray mixture is playing as the cattle pass through. In 
 the case of fine stock in stables, such sprayers as the 
 HAYES PERFECTION OR BOSS OUTFITS make 
 convenient means of applying the insecticide, as the spray 
 can be taken direct to the places where it is to be applied. 
 Ticks which infest southern cattle may be destroyed 
 quite as effectually by spraying the cattle with the insec- 
 ticides as by dipping. The solution for this purpose that 
 is recommended by the Bureau of Animal Industry is 
 as follows: 
 
 Sal soda 6 pounds 
 
 White arsenic 2 pounds 
 
 Pine tar 1 quart 
 
 Water, sufficient to make 12% gallons 
 
 In making up this material, mix the sal soda and 
 arsenic in a kettle containing six gallons of water. Set 
 it over a fire and let it boil for thirty minutes. Remove 
 it and let it cool to about 140 degrees, then slowly add 
 the pine tar, stirring vigorously. Pour in sufficient water 
 to bring up to the required volume 12^ gallons. For 
 use this should be diluted at the rate of one gallon to 
 nine gallons of water. 
 
 This solution is poisonous and should be used with 
 care. Apply it to the cattle once every two weeks until 
 the ticks are eradicated, making the applications where 
 the drip will not lodge on grass or feed of any kind. 
 
 Commercial brands of fly repellant may be obtained 
 at many stores and are more convenient than mixing your 
 own. 
 
 Spray the Hogs 
 
 A cool bath for the hog is soothing in hot summer 
 weather, and to obtain his bath the hog wallows in the
 
 [ 108 ] Spraying About the Farm 
 
 first convenient mud hole. Filthy hog wallows are a 
 source of danger, while a sanitary wallow made of con- 
 crete and frequently cleaned has many advantages. Such 
 wallows when filled with clean water over which a film 
 of crude oil is spread once a week, cleans the scruff from 
 the skin of the hogs and tends to keep them free from 
 lice and other skin parasites. But where a concrete wal- 
 low or dipping vat is not practical, the dip, properly 
 diluted may be applied to the hogs with a spray pump. 
 Hogs like to be sprayed, and this means of applying 
 insecticides to swine, sheep or other animals for the con- 
 trol of lice, mites and ticks, is gaining in popularity be- 
 cause of its thoroughness and economy. Spraying takes 
 less materials, less time to apply and causes less injury 
 to the animals than dipping, and in addition has other 
 reasons to recommend its use. 
 
 The Right Sprayer for the Purpose 
 
 Necessity has produced many styles and sizes of 
 sprayers and there is a sprayer for every spraying need. 
 There are big, power-operated outfits for the spraying 
 of commercial orchards, parks and shade trees; barrel 
 pumps for the small orchard and atomizers for the appli- 
 cation of a pint or so of spray liquid. The small hand 
 atomizer, such as HAYES MATCHLESS or GLASS 
 JAR, are familiar to all, and are handy for the small gar- 
 den, house plants, the disinfecting of sick rooms and 
 many other purposes where but a small quantity of spray 
 is required. 
 
 HAYES BOSS COMPRESSED AIR SPRAYERS 
 
 are typical of those convenient little outfits that admir- 
 ably serve the need of the backyard gardener, the poul- 
 tryman, florist and the farmer. The tank holds three gal- 
 lons, or sufficient for one application to a fair size garden. 
 It is emptied by three or four pumpings of a dozen strokes 
 each, and the sprayer is convenient to carry by means of 
 the shoulder strap. This outfit should be part of the 
 equipment of every backyard gardener and florist. No
 
 Spraying About the Farm [ 109 ] 
 
 sprayer is more convenient for whitewashing greenhouse 
 glass in summer. 
 
 HAYES BUCKET SPRAYERS are of sufficient 
 variety to meet the needs for small sprayers that will 
 develop high pressure. With these little sprayers sur- 
 prisingly high pressure may be obtained with the conse- 
 quent finely atomized spray, and they are convenient to 
 carry from place to place. There is a multitude of uses 
 for Hayes* Bucket Sprayers, and a place for one of them 
 in every home, no matter what other style of sprayer also 
 may be on hand. They are particularly useful in spraying 
 fruit trees, where the owner has from one to a dozen 
 trees to spray; for the farmer in disinfecting barns, for 
 the poultryman, nurseryman, dairyman, contractors, 
 school boards, factory superintendents, boards of health, 
 etc. 
 
 HAYES WHEELBARROW SPRAYERS are ideal 
 outfits for the farmer, dairyman, poultryman or fruit 
 grower. They are convenient to take from place to place, 
 have large capacity and produce high pressure as the 
 pump is the same size as regularly used in barrel spray- 
 ers. For spraying cattle for ticks, hogs for lice, for white- 
 washing, etc., they are ideal. 
 
 HAYES BARREL SPRAYERS are designed to fit 
 the needs of the small orchardist and the commercial 
 gardener who has a small acreage. These barrel spray- 
 ers develop still higher pressure than the bucket sprayers, 
 and have sufficient strength and capacity to thoroughly 
 spray orchards. They are well suited to spraying potato 
 patches of an acre in size, but in the orchard they should 
 be used only where the acreage is small, that is, three or 
 four acres. On orchards of larger size, up to eight or ten 
 acres, it is more economical to make use of such an outfit 
 as HAYES PLATFORM DUPLEX HAND SPRAYER, 
 as such an outfit not only produces higher pressure but 
 has greater capacity, delivering from two to five gallons 
 of spray per minute, with the consequence of saving much 
 valuable time in doing the work.
 
 [110] Spraying About the Farm 
 
 For orchards of more than 5 acres, for citrus groves, 
 park and shade tree spraying, the greatest economy comes 
 from the use of power driven outfits, such as HAYES 
 FRUIT-FOG SPRAYERS No. 1905 on up to No. 3121. 
 These sprayers are driven by gasoline engines of 1J4 
 to 3 horsepower. They have from 2 to 3 cylinders in the 
 pumps and will deliver from 5 to 9 gallons of spray per 
 minute under a pressure of 300 pounds per square inch. 
 This is the genuine Fruit- Fog, a spray that will penetrate 
 cracks and crevices and wet upper and lower surfaces of 
 foliage in ways impossible for low pressure outfits. These 
 power driven outfits give a steadier spray than is possi- 
 ble to obtain from hand-driven pumps, and no commer- 
 cial fruit grower should attempt to spray with anything 
 else. 
 
 If your spraying problem is such that you are uncertain as 
 to what particular outfit will best suit your needs, write to the 
 Horticultural Service Department, Hayes Pump & Planter Co., 
 Galva, 111. Tell just what you want to spray, how much of it 
 you have to do, and your inquiry will be cheerfully answered by 
 experts who have a life-time experience with every spraying 
 operation.
 
 How to Spray Citrus Trees [ 111 ] 
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 How to Spray Citrus Trees 
 
 HE spraying of citrus -trees is coming more and 
 more into vogue as growers are finding out the 
 values that accrue from this operation. Especially 
 is this true in Florida, where citrus growers have had a 
 strong inclination to rely upon the services of certain 
 so-called "beneficial" fungi and insects which have preyed 
 to a considerable extent upon the pests of their groves. 
 
 But it has been proved beyond question, even to the 
 most enthusiastic supporters of the "natural enemies" of 
 citrus pests that spraying is not only profitable but a 
 real necessity. And, as in the case of all other crops, 
 there are certain very important claims made for spray- 
 ing, all of which have a direct result in enabling the grove 
 owner to make more money from his fruit. Some of 
 these claims are that: 
 
 1. Spraying increases the size of citrus fruits. 
 
 2. Spraying improves the grades of fruits. 
 
 3. Spraying maintains the vigor of the trees. 
 
 4. Spraying enhances the appearance of the fruit. 
 
 5. Spraying enables the trees to increase the yield 
 from year to year. 
 
 6. Spraying insures the grove against crop damage 
 from fungi and insects. 
 
 7. Spraying improves the keeping quality of the fruit. 
 
 Prof. W. W. Yothers, of the U. S. Department of 
 Agriculture, in department bulletin 645 has shown how 
 spraying increases size and improves the grades of 
 oranges and grape fruits through controlling the insect 
 pests. "In one instance a row of 16 trees was left un- 
 sprayed for three seasons, 1913, 1914 and 1915. The re- 
 mainder of the grove was sprayed. The citrus white fly 
 was making its first appearance in the grove. During
 
 [112] How to Spray Citrus Trees 
 
 the year 1913, there was little or no difference in the 
 yields of the sprayed trees and the unsprayed check trees. 
 In 1914 the sprayed rows averaged 50 boxes of fruit, and 
 the adjoining row of 16 unsprayed trees had about 5 
 boxes. All common species of fungi parasites on the 
 white fly and scale insects were present in great abun- 
 dance. In 1915 the difference was not so great; the un- 
 sprayed row had about 20 boxes of fruit and the adjoining 
 rows about 50 boxes each." 
 
 "As another instance, in a grape fruit grove at Safety 
 Harbor, 84 trees left without treatment during the sum- 
 mer of 1914 averaged two-thirds of a box per tree less 
 than the trees adjoining which were sprayed. The re- 
 duction in yield due to failure to spray was caused by 
 the smaller size of the fruit resulting from rust mite 
 attack. There seems to be no evidence that the actual 
 number of grape fruit on the unsprayed trees was less 
 than on the sprayed trees." 
 
 "During the year 1915 the same trees received the 
 same treatment as during 1914. The sprayed trees had 
 at least a good half crop, or about four boxes per tree. 
 This difference was so marked that all the laborers in the 
 grove noticed it as early as August 1." 
 
 Spraying Helps Grades 
 
 Many such instances should be recorded for results 
 obtained from spraying in citrus groves, and such dif- 
 ferences have a very decided effect on the bankable profits 
 the grove owner has at the end of the season. But the 
 actual increase in quantity or bulk of the fruit harvested 
 is only one of the virtues derived from spraying. The 
 grade of the fruit also is improved. While the grading 
 of citrus fruit in Forida has not reached quite the degree 
 of perfection that exists in California, there is an increas- 
 ing tendency for citrus fruit packers in Florida to give 
 more and more attention to the matter of grades. Here 
 is where the effect of spraying also shows up, since
 
 Hayes High Pressure Triplex Power Sprayer 
 
 Monarch of High Pressure Sprayers the most highly perfected spraying 
 apparatus in the world. Designed for large commercial orchards, citrus 
 groves and shade tree work, where many trees are cared for. It represents 
 the most advanced step in the control of diseases and pests which rob orchards 
 of millions. 
 
 Hayes High Pressure Triplex Power Sprayer 
 
 To orchardists the name Hayes on spraying apparatus guarantees not 
 only the most advanced methods for thoroughly controlling all crop destroy- 
 ing pests, but the satisfaction and economy that come from using the best 
 possible quality in machinery. Every outfit represents all that Hayes experi- 
 ence, resources and an efficient manufacturing organization can offer. This 
 means that when you buy a Hayes sprayer you get all that money can buy, 
 dollar for dollar value. 
 
 [Page 113]
 
 Hayes High Pressure Walking Beam Power Sprayer 
 
 This small power sprayer will exactly suit the requirements of the grower 
 with medium or small acreage. This outfit represents every improvement that 
 is best and practical in sprayer construction. Any grower with 200 or more 
 trees cannot afford to be without this sprayer increased profits from high 
 pressure, time, work, and solution saved will justify its purchase. 
 
 Hayes High Pressure Walking Beam Power Sprayer 
 
 The famous Type "Z" 1^ H. P. Fairbanks-Morse Engine with which 
 these smaller outfits are equipped furnishes constant and reliable power far 
 in excess of its name plate rating. The built-in magneto eliminates the bat- 
 teries and permits quick and easy starting. For economy, simplicity, light 
 weight, strength and ability to do the work continuously under all weather con- 
 ditions, this engine cannot be duplicated for small power spraying service. 
 
 [Page 114]
 
 Hayes Triplex Power Spray Pump 
 
 Hayes Walking Beam Power_Spray Pump 
 
 [Page 115]
 
 Hayes Barrel Sprayers 
 
 Hayes Barrel Sprayers are made in 26 styles and sizes. They are of sim- 
 ple and scientific design, built for maximum pressure and capacity with mini- 
 mum power to operate. 
 
 Hayes Duplex Hand Sprayer 
 
 Hayes Duplex Sprayer is the 
 most powerful hand sprayer 
 made. Capable of developing 
 300 Ibs. pressure. Double cyl- 
 inder. Powerful leverage. Brass 
 
 cylinders, bronze plung- 
 ers and large bronze ball 
 valves. Can be operated 
 from wagon or drawn 
 through orchard. 
 
 [ Page 116]
 
 Hayes Spraying Booms 
 
 Hayes Spraying Booms may be used with barrel or power sprayers for 
 spraying potatoes, tomatoes, small nursery stock, strawberries, grain, cotton 
 and tobacco fields and other row crops. 
 
 Hayes Wheelbarrow Sprayer 
 
 Hayes Wheelbarrow Sprayer is a handy, portable, all-purpose outfit. 
 Twelve important every-day uses. Spray trees, bushes, vines, potatoes, garden 
 crops ! Whitewash trees, barns, pens, coops, fences, cellars ! Spray hogs ! 
 Spray all your stock! Disinfect stables, sheds, yards and poultry houses! 
 Deodorize! Goes anywhere like a wheelbarrow. 
 
 [Page 117 ]
 
 Fig. 23 
 
 Fig. 25 
 
 Hayes Bucket Sprayers 
 
 Hayes Bucket Sprayers are a most important tool for farm, home and 
 garden use. Indispensable for spraying trees, small fruits, garden truck, 
 flowers, etc. ; washing windows, porches and autos ; disinfecting the farm yard, 
 
 barns and poultry houses; spraying 
 1 cattle fly oil and stock dip and white- 
 
 washing buildings and fences. All 
 working parts are brass, not subject 
 r to corrosion. Solid bronze ball valves. 
 
 Malleable foot rest. Will develop high 
 pressure, are easy-working, long last- 
 ing and exempt from breakage and de- 
 lays. 
 
 Hayes Bucket Clamp 
 
 [ Page 118]
 
 "Boss" Compressed Air 
 
 The Boss Compressed Air is simple, strong and substantial. Two or 
 three pumpings will discharge the contents of the tank at strong and constant 
 pressure. After pumping the operator has only to direct the spray. Auto- 
 matic, self-cleaning nozzle with lever for controlling and shutting of spray. 
 Galvanized or brass tank, 4 gallons capacity. 
 
 No. 34 
 
 Hayes Atomizers are made in five styles for spraying and disinfecting. 
 Tin, galvanized or glass jar. Pint and quart sizes. 
 
 [ Page 119 ]
 
 Hayes Fruit-Fog Nozzles 
 
 The remarkable fineness of FRUIT-FOG is due to the high pressure of 
 Hayes Sprayers and the principles involved in the design and construction of 
 Hayes Nozzles. Efficient spraying is impossible without good nozzles, no 
 matter what the pressure used. Hayes Nozzles apply the spray in the finest 
 possible condition and can be used with any sprayer. 
 
 Hayes Fruit-Fog Gun 
 
 World's fastest spraying apparatus. The only gun which combines great 
 speed with the thoroughness of Fruit-Fog. One man handles capacity of big 
 power sprayer. Does four days' work in one. Simple twist shoots long spray 
 to top of tallest tree or wide spray for close-up work. Half turn of handle 
 opens wide or shuts off tight. Prevents usual waste of solution between trees. 
 Mechanically perfect and fully guaranteed. 
 
 [ Page 120 ]
 
 How to Spray Citrus Trees [ 121 ] 
 
 certain insects have a decided effect in lowering the 
 grades and decreasing the size of the individual fruits. 
 
 The insect chiefly responsible is the silver or rust 
 mite. Fruits which have suffered damage from this pest 
 are not only russeted and their appearance soiled, but 
 they are actually smaller in size. A striking example of 
 this effect is given by Professor Yothers for a grape fruit 
 grove. In this grove a block was thoroughly sprayed 
 throughout the season, in a second block no spraying was 
 done after June, while a third portion was left without 
 spraying. The sprayed and unsprayed portions were 
 in adjoining rows and the fruit was picked and packed 
 on the same day. "The carload of sprayed fruit shipped 
 87.4 per cent first and second, and 12.6 per cent third and 
 fourth grades; the unsprayed carload shipped no first, 
 3.3 per cent second, and 96.6 per cent third and fourth 
 grades. The car load of fruit left unsprayed after June 
 shipped 80.3 per cent first and second and 19.6 per cent 
 third and fourth grades, thus indicating that if rust mites 
 are controlled thoroughly until the 1st of July on grape 
 fruit little damage will result." In other words, the 
 sprayed block produced more fruit not only because it 
 contained more fruit graded as "bright," but also because 
 the individual fruits were larger and fewer were needed 
 to fill a box. Professor Yothers has found this difference 
 to run as high as 15 per cent, a figure which represents a 
 very substantial profit, as profits are judged in a mer- 
 cantile business. 
 
 Increases Vigor of Trees 
 
 There is no doubt whatever that spraying increases 
 the vigor of citrus trees, and even a casual observer 
 cannot fail to observe the greater luxuriance of the foliage 
 on a well sprayed grove as compared to a grove that is 
 not sprayed. Healthy, vigorous, abundant foliage is 
 necessary to the trees for building up its framework of 
 twigs and branches and also for elaborating the sugars 
 and acids which go to make up the fruit. A citrus tree
 
 [ 122 ] How to Spray Citrus Trees 
 
 with its foliage lessened in quantity and lowered in effi- 
 ciency by scale and white fly is in much the same condi- 
 tion as a man suffering from a bad case of indigestion. 
 
 The looks of the fruit has much to do with the sale. 
 Fruit that looks good sells more readily than fruit that 
 is less attractive. The elimination of russet, scale and 
 scab from citrus fruits by spraying makes them bright 
 and attractive in appearance, and hastens their sale. Fur- 
 thermore, the bright fruit is less liable to rot than fruit 
 which is russetted. Nature has provided the outer rind 
 of the orange, lemon, and grape fruit with a waxy cover- 
 ing that is not readily penetrated by germs that cause the 
 fruit to rot. But when this outer covering is broken, as 
 in the case of numerous but tiny punctures of the rust 
 mite, the fruit is much more liable to decay. In many 
 different tests, Professor Yothers found this difference in 
 keeping quality between bright and russet fruit to amount 
 to an average of 14 per cent. 
 
 Spray Thoroughly 
 
 Citrus trees as a rule are of compact habit. The foliage 
 is dense and to a large extent is produced throughout the 
 entire tree, rather than as a mere shell of foliage on the 
 tips of the outermost twigs. Then the great majority 
 of insect pests of the citrus grove occur more extensively 
 on the lower surface of the leaves than on the upper sides. 
 Bearing these facts in mind, it is apparent that only by 
 high pressure is it economical to do a thorough job of 
 spraying citrus. High pressures, that is, pressures above 
 250 pounds, produce a more highly atomized spray than 
 when lower pressures are used, and this in turn spreads 
 better and wets the foliage and insects better than do 
 lower pressures, with a consequent saving in material 
 used and time of application. 
 
 In spraying citrus, it should be remembered that 
 insects should be sprayed for when they are present in 
 auch numbers that if left uncontrolled they will cause 
 injury to the fruit or tree. Furthermore, the spraying
 
 How to Spray Citrus Trees [ 123 ] 
 
 must be done with thoroughness to wet the upper and 
 lower sides of every leaf ; this is for the reason that most 
 of the insects infesting citrus are sucking insects, and 
 therefore are killed by contact spray rather than by a 
 poison. 
 
 Begin spraying in the center of the tree, pushing the 
 spray rod in the foliage so as to wet the bark of all in- 
 terior branches, twigs and leaves. Turn the angle nozzle 
 first one way and then another so as to wet all sides. 
 After the interior portion of a section of the tree has 
 been sprayed, withdraw the spray rod and repeat the 
 same movements on the outside of the tree, passing on to 
 the next section of the tree where the same routine is 
 repeated. 
 
 When to Spray 
 
 No definite rule can be laid down for spraying citrus 
 trees, but in Florida, where spraying is more largely 
 done for citrus insects than is the case in California, 
 Professer Yothers proposes the following schedule. This 
 schedule has been closely followed for a number of years 
 and gives entire satisfaction: 
 
 1. Paraffin oil emulsions; Government formula, one per cent 
 of oil. May. For white flies, scales and rust mite. This ap- 
 plication should be made after the adults of the first brood of 
 white flies have disappeared and before the appearance of the 
 second brood. It should be made before the beginning of the 
 rainy season. 
 
 2. Lime-sulphur 32 degrees Beaume, 1-50 to 1-7S; June to 
 July. This is primarily a rust mite application, and should be 
 applied before the mites become very numerous and before 
 russeting appears. 
 
 3. Paraffin oil emulsions; Government formula, one per cent 
 of oil. August 25 to October 31. This is the second application 
 for white fly and scale. This application will remove the sooty 
 mould from the leaves and fruit. 
 
 4. Lime-sulphur, 32 degrees Beaume, 1-50 to 1-75. Novem- 
 ber and December. This is for rust mites, and may be omitted 
 if the mites are not excessively abundant. In case thrips are 
 present in the blossoms, add nicotine sulphate at the rate of one 
 part to 1,200 parts of spray solution.
 
 [ 124 ] How to Spray Citrus Trees 
 
 This cannot be considered as a hard and fast sched- 
 ule that must be followed to the letter. Conditions will 
 arise when it may be necessary to use other spray solu- 
 tions, particularly bordeaux mixture. But under aver- 
 age conditions, the above schedule will be found highly 
 satisfactory under conditions prevailing in Florida and 
 along the Gulf Coast. In California, however, where 
 fumigation to a large extent takes the place of spraying 
 in citrus trees, and where citrus pests to some extent are 
 different from those in Florida, the schedule will be 
 different. 
 
 No attempt will be made in this publication to give 
 descriptions of insects and diseases affecting citrus fruits. 
 Readers who desire more detailed information of that 
 character should secure the excellent bulletins on citrus 
 insects and diseases which have been published by the 
 U. S. Department of Agriculture, by the Florida Experi- 
 ment Station, Gainesville, Fla., and the California Expe- 
 riment Station, Berkeley, Cal. 

 
 Shade Tree Spraying [ 125 ] 
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 Shade Tree Spraying 
 
 shade trees in residence streets, in 
 parks and cemeteries and even in forests suffer 
 from attacks of insects of many kinds, which, un- 
 less controlled by artificial means, do an inestimable 
 amount of damage. Hundreds of thousands of dollars 
 have already been expended in the New England states 
 for the control of the gipsy moth and brown tail moth. 
 The white pine blister rust, which came to this country 
 just a few years ago has already created havoc among 
 the stately white pines of the eastern part of the United 
 States. The blight of the chestnut is annually taking a 
 heavy toll of magnificent chestnut trees, not only from 
 city streets, but even from forests. Elms, maples, ash 
 and oak, which have been planted at large expense along 
 city streets suffer great damage yearly from insect pests, 
 their beauty is lessened by these attacks and in number- 
 less instances their death is brought about. 
 
 Beautiful trees in a city represent a heavy invest- 
 ment, and they possess a cash value of thousands, yes, 
 even millions of dollars in any town or city, and to per- 
 mit such trees to be ravaged by insects should not be 
 permitted, since the comparatively inexpensive matter 
 of spraying them will do for the ornamental tree just 
 what is accomplished for the fruit tree. Its healthfulness 
 will be maintained, its beauty will be enhanced, its value 
 increased. 
 
 Ornamental trees suffer from (1) insects which chew 
 the foliage, (2) insects which suck the sap from leaf and 
 twig; (3) and insects which bore into the branches and 
 trunks. The first two classes of insects can be con- 
 trolled by spraying and banding; the latter can be con- 
 trolled to a considerable extent by digging out or fumi- 
 gating the depredator.
 
 [ 126 ] Shade Tree Spraying 
 
 High Pressure Needed 
 
 The spraying of shade trees requires the use of a 
 spraying outfit that will produce high pressure and sup- 
 ply a large volume in order to reach the tops of the tall 
 trees. Beautiful trees in most instances are tall and in 
 the case of street trees, necessity requires that they be tall 
 enough to extend their canopy of foliage well above the 
 traffic. In many instances the tops of stately elm and 
 maples will tower 100 feet from the street level. On 
 that account, high pressure is an absolute necessity in 
 order that the spray may be driven to the maximum 
 height. But not infrequently it is necessary that der- 
 ricks, ladders, and even considerable nimble climbing 
 must be done to apply the spray where it will accom- 
 plish the desired results on trees of great height. 
 
 Sc a le Insects 
 
 Of the sucking insects infesting shade trees, there 
 are several different kinds of scales which cause trouble, 
 notably the San Jose scale. This minute creature may 
 occur in such vast numbers as to encrust the branches 
 of the tree or shrub and either bring about the death of 
 the tree or devitalize it to such an extent that it loses 
 its beauty. The cottony scale likewise may occur in 
 troublesome numbers, particularly on maples. The 
 oyster-shell and scurfy scales are prevalent on many 
 kinds of ornamental trees and shrubs. These scales fre- 
 quently heavily infest the elm, which seems most suscep- 
 tible to its injuries. 
 
 Aphis 
 
 Aphis, green, black and woolly, infest many kinds of 
 ornamental trees and shrubs where they cause injury 
 of more or less seriousness and at the same time dis- 
 figure the foliage of the plants as well as soiling with the 
 honey, dew which they secrete, other foliage, the grass 
 under the infested trees, sidewalks and branches. 
 
 CONTROL: Scale insects are controlled by the use of 
 sprays which kill the insects by contact. Lime-sulphur and
 
 Shade Tree Spraying [ 127 ] 
 
 soluble oils are best for the scale insects, and application 
 should be made during the winter months while the trees are 
 dormant and leafless. Aphids are controlled by nicotine sul- 
 phate, which must be applied early in the season when the 
 aphids make their first appearance. The spraying must be 
 done with thoroughness, so as to wet the bodies of all of the 
 insects, otherwise the results will not be satisfactory. Nicotine 
 sulphate can be added to the arsenate of lead spray used for 
 foliage chewing insects, and in that way both kinds may be 
 controlled with a single application. 
 
 Chewing Insects 
 
 This class of insects includes those which eat the 
 foliage of trees and shrubs, of which some of the most 
 troublesome on street and park trees are the canker worm, 
 tussock moth, elm leaf beetle, web worm, tent cater- 
 pillar, bag worm, gipsy and brown tail moths. Havoc 
 is not infrequently created by one or more of these pests, 
 and street and shade trees of great beauty often are de- 
 foliated by one or more of these pests. Usually these 
 insects have a preference for certain kinds of trees and 
 will work on those trees to the exclusion of all others. 
 This is especially true of the canker worm and elm leaf 
 beetle, which prefer the elm to all other trees. The tus- 
 sock caterpillar feeds on almost every kind of tree except 
 on firs, but is especially troublesome on the soft maple, 
 birch, linden and horse chestnut. 
 
 CONTROL: Because of the habit of these insects eating 
 the foliage of the trees, a poison of some kind, such as arsenate 
 of lead, applied to the leaves before the insects have become 
 numerous, will poison them and thus prevent the damage that 
 would otherwise occur. Such applications should be made in 
 early spring when about one-third of the leaves have unfolded 
 and if a later invasion of such insects appears the application 
 should be repeated.
 
 f>t*BS Or J. P. BLACK A CO,, OHfOACO