LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN IN MEMORY OF STEWART S. HOWE JOURNALISM CLASS OF 1928 STEWART S. HOWE FOUNDATION 977.31 C831 ccp.2 I o H « b o 04^ n REMINISCENCE HIGHLIGHTS OF MEN AND EVENTS IN THE LIFE OF CHICAGO BY F. E. COYNE U. S. Collector of Internal Revenue, 1897-190: Postmaster of Chicago, 1901-1905, by Appointment of Presidents William McKinley and Theodore Roosevelt Privately Printed CHICAGO 1941 COPYRIGHTED, 1941 By F. E. Coyne All Rights Reserved Printed by Excella Press Chicago q 1 ?, 3 1 Of 3^ &*efi "ace When I started preparing these notes I was at first moved with the thought and intention of collect- ing and putting them in writing as a sort of a saga of my rather eventful life — for family purpose only. As I proceeded along that line and had com- mitted to type some six or eight thousand words, my wife and children, after carefully considering what notes I had collected, expressed the wish that I would complete the work and bring it out in book form. I hope that those who compliment my efforts by calling this a book, will be moved by the same spirit of generosity and grant me such indulgences as are generally accorded to poets and oldest in- habitants, bearing in mind that eighty years of age is a little late in life for a man to embark on the ocean of thought in so fragile a vessel as his first literary effort. So in grateful acknowledgment of the help of my family and favors from friends in Chicago, I dedicate to them all — this compilation of reminis- cences — leaving it to them to call it what they will. 'Me showed us in his life how a citizen should live, and in his last hour taught us how a gentleman could die." U. S. Senator Henry Cabot Lodge Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012 with funding from University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign http://archive.org/details/inreminiscencehiOOcoyn liable of Contents BOOK ONE Page CHAPTER I 1 Chicago River 1879, South Water Street, Ogden House, Great Fire, Mrs. Coyne Escapes, Newsboy. CHAPTER II 5 Mrs. O'Leary's Cow, Stock Yards, Corliss Engine, Town of Pullman, Chicago 1883. CHAPTER III 8 Out of the Mud, Palmer House Silver Dollars, Grand Pacific Hotel, John B. Drake, Game Dinner, Hotel Riche- lieu, Cardinal Bemis, Theatres, North Side Turner Hall, Germania Club. CHAPTER IV 13 Central Music Hall, Professor Swing, Dwight B. Hillis, Dr. Frank Gonzales, Blatchford Kavanaugh. CHAPTER V 16 Chicago Parks, Government Pier, Fried Fish, Water Tower, Water Works Crib, Jack Scully — Diver. CHAPTER VI 18 Fort Dearborn Massacre, Memorial Tree, Pullman Resi- dence, 1812 — Chicago in hands of Savages. CHAPTER VII 19 Restaurants, Kinsleys, Race Brothers, Boston Oyster House, Burcky and Milans, Pittsburgh Joe, Billy Boyles, Rectors. CHAPTER VIII 26 Bill Riley, Cleveland's Election 1884, Gambler's Alley. CHAPTER IX 28 1886 Chicago's Peril, Anarchists Riots, Attack on Board of Trade, Le Marseillaise, Strikes, Haymarket Riot, Trial of Anarchists, Conviction, Execution, Pardons. i Page CHAPTER X 33 Aldermen Coughlin and Kenna, Political Powers, Bar- num's Circus, Hieniegabooblers, Bar Flies, Knight of the Bath. BOOK TWO CHAPTER I 37 First Job, Fulton Market, Milk Wagon, Bread Route, E. Peters, Troubled Waters. CHAPTER II 43 Peters shows his hand, Billy Boyd, D. F. Bremner, Married, In Business on North State Street, "Economic Royalist". CHAPTER III 53 Virginia Penny's difficulties, Work for Women, First Woman Doctor, First Woman Minister, First Portia. CHAPTER IV 56 State Street Bridge Broken, Drop in Business, Bridge Moved to Dearborn Street, Business Recovered. CHAPTER V 60 Moved to West Side, Ghetto District, North Side Boom, Edgewater Beach, Gold Coast, Captain Streeter, Justice McCarty. CHAPTER VI 67 Eugene Debs, Insurrection, Federal Troops, Hannah and Hogg Statues. CHAPTER VII 71 Baseball, White Stockings, Colts, Captain Anson as Santa Claus, Brotherhood, Charles Comiskey, Kenesaw Landis, Original Stone Wall Infield. CHAPTER VIII 76 Sunset Club, Charles W. Errant, Uplifting the Masses, Reverend Martyn, Bread or Blood. CHAPTER IX Sold North Side Place, William E. Mason, Cleveland's Second Election, Meeting McKinley. ii BOOK THREE Page CHAPTER I 86 Coin's Financial School, Harvey on Free Silver. CHAPTER II 88 William Jennings Bryan, Cross of Gold, No Radio for Bryan. CHAPTER III 93 Blaine and Logan Convention, Mrs. Logan, Meeting with Logan, Logan's Election as U. S. Senator. CHAPTER IV 96 Tunnels and Rivers in Chicago, River Traffic, Drainage Canal, Lake Perch to Peoria, Lakes to Gulf, Luncheon in New Orleans, William Lorimer, William Hale Thompson, Mayor O'Keefe. CHAPTER V 101 What Nature did for Chicago, Grade Crossing O'Neil. CHAPTER VI 104 Street Transportation, Cable Lines, Charles T. Yerkes, Elevated Railroad, Tunnels Under Streets and Alleys. CHAPTER VII 109 Hull House, Jane Addams, H. H. Kohlsaat. CHAPTER VIII 114 William McKinley, Protective Tariff, Fight for Illinois, Charles G. Dawes, Mark Hanna. CHAPTER IX 131 William E. Mason, Election to U. S. Senate, (Campaign Manager of John A. Logan), Desperate Attempt to De- feat Mason, W. J. Calhoun, Lawrence Y. Sherman. BOOK FOUR CHAPTER I 140 Columbian Exposition 1892-93, Contest in Washington, D. C, Chauncy Depew, Windy City Won, Princess Eulalie — Spanish Infanta, Mrs. Potter Palmer, Private Gate, Midway, House Boat on the Sticks, Viking Ship — No Sailors — "Captains All", Cold Storage Fire. iii Page CHAPTER II 155 Mayors of Chicago, Count of Ballots, Hempstead Wash- bourne, Elmer Washburn. CHAPTER III 158 Police Department, Chief Bonfield, Major McClaughery, Detective Phil Miller. CHAPTER IV 162 Chicago Fire Department, Chief Sweeny, Captain Bull- winkle. CHAPTER V 164 Sheriff Matson and McGarigle, Citizens Association, County Commissioners, McGarigle's Escape. CHAPTER VI 167 Cleveland's Second Nomination, No Love Feast, David B. Hill, Burke Cockran, Caveat Emptor, Assassination of Mayor Harrison. CHAPTER VII 170 Explorer Nansen, Nansen Farthest North. CHAPTER VIII 174 Cheltenham Beach, Attempt to Create a Coney Island for Chicago — Not Successful. CHAPTER IX 176 Harry Tichenor of Orange, New Jersey, Winner of Re- ward for Poem, Cassopolis, Michigan, Bread upon the Waters, Nuggets from Klondike. CHAPTER X 182 Fellowship Club Banquet, Governor Oglesby, Speech on Corn, Joe Jefferson, Volney W. Foster. BOOK FIVE CHAPTER I 190 War with Spain, Queen's Reply, Peace Protocol, Private John Allen, Governors Murphy of Arizona and Otero of New Mexico. CHAPTER II 197 Appointed Collector by President McKinley, McKinley Moved to Parlor, Increased Business, One Thousand Dol- lar Bills Scarce, Joe Leiter's Wheat Deal, Charles F. Nagel. iv Page CHAPTER III 216 Washington Park Derby, Big Parade, Garfield Park, Race Track. CHAPTER IV 217 First Visit to Washington, D. C, Shook Hands with President Harrison, Started Bakery Lunch Room for Friend. CHAPTER V 221 Prince Henry of Prussia, Guest of Chicago, Diamond Studded Cigarette Case, Charles F. Halle. CHAPTER VI 224 Paul Hull, Chicago Press Club, Knock Out Punch, General Results. CHAPTER VII 227 James A. Patten, Wheat King, Candidate for Alderman, Mayor of Evanston. CHAPTER VIII 231 S. S. City of Louisville Reported Lost, James Lane Allen, St. Joe River. CHAPTER IX 234 Carl Ziegfeld — Brother of Flo, Jumping Frogs, Anna Held. CHAPTER X 237 John R. Thompson. BOOK SIX CHAPTER I 239 Appointed Postmaster by McKinley, Urged to Run for Mayor of Chicago, Trouble with Civil Service, Witler- Rogers Case. CHAPTER II 256 Illinois Tunnel Company, Underground Mail Service, Post Office Robbery— $74,000.00, Relieved by Congress, Quickest and Slowest Delivery, Opposition in Re-Appoint- ment. CHAPTER III 268 Assassination of President McKinley, Post Office Em- ployes in Memorial Parade, Visit to Mrs. McKinley, Baby Slippers, Senator Lodge Address, Captain Gallagher. v Page CHAPTER IV 271 Inauguration of Theodore Roosevelt, Inaugural Ball, Alice in Demand, Call at White House, President Calls for "Three Cheers for Mrs. Coyne", Re-appointed by Roosevelt. CHAPTER V 275 Iroquois Theatre Fire, Flo Ziegfeld, Chief O'Neil, Nar- row Escape of Mrs. Meeker and Children, Carriage Drivers' Strike, John Wolf. CHAPTER VI 283 Lake Beulah, John Milton Oliver, John Gillespie, Dr. T. A. Davis, Gillespie's Story of Melville E. Stone. CHAPTER VII 288 Campaign for Governor of Charles S. Deneen, Many Candidates in the Field, Lawrence Y. Sherman on Rabbit Shepherds, Deadlock Broken, Deneen Nominated. BOOK SEVEN CHAPTER I 292 Steamship Chicora Lost in Lake Michigan. CHAPTER II 295 Eugene Field, Sharps and Flats, An Evening at the Field Homestead. CHAPTER III 299 Twenty-five Dollar Dinner to President Roosevelt, Charles Henrotin — Chairman of Banquet Committee. CHAPTER IV 302 Whiskers Worthy of Mention, Major Handy, Postmaster Hessing, Senator James Hamilton Lewis, Captain Streeter. CHAPTER V 305 "Matinee de Septembre", Paul Chabas. CHAPTER VI 306 After Public Life, Business Disaster, Bond Salesman, Sebree Mail Catcher, William Jennings Bryan on "Op- portunity", Pitney Postage Meter. CHAPTER VII 319 Candidate for Congress 1914 on Republican Ticket, En- trance of Bull Moose Candidate — Elected the Democrat. vi Page CHAPTER VIII 321 World War, Commissioned as Captain, Two Sons Volun- teered, Third Son Appointed to Naval Academy, Anna- polis. CHAPTER IX 329 One Year in New Orleans, Delta Farms, Grand Isle, Huey P. Long, Friends in Larose. CHAPTER X 333 Steamship Eastland Capsized, S. S. Chicora Lost in Lake Michigan, Titanic Disaster, Lusitania Torpedoed. APPENDIX 337 State of Texas, Forty Club. vn £Book One Chapter I My first sight of Chicago was in 1879. I was then returning to my home in East Orange, New Jersey, from a trip out West. I had gone there to settle down and "grow up with the country", as in those days was quite commonly done, in response to the well-known and wide- spread advice of Horace Greely to the young men of the East. I came into Chicago on the C. B. & Q. Railroad, and our train was switched to the old Michigan Central Depot at Lake Street, over a trestle that looked like a railroad on stilts. The rails were well out in the water of Lake Michigan, the shore of which was not far from Michigan Avenue. Having read and heard a great deal about Chicago, I stopped over for a few days, to get a view of the city that only a few years before had been almost entirely wiped out by fire. The morning after my arrival, I started out for a walk and found myself in South Water Street, absolutely jammed with wagons and trucks, loading up with pro- duce for outlying stores. The commission houses at that time were thickly located on both sides of the street, from La Salle to State Street. I stopped on the Clark Street bridge and took a look at the river traffic. There I saw a large steamship that would compare favorably with such vessels as I had seen in New York, making her way 2 IN REMINISCENCE with the assistance of tugboats up the river, with a load of grain from Lake Superior. Small towboats, noisy and smoky, were rushing up and down the river tipping their smoke stacks as they passed under the bridges. I saw two schooners loaded with lumber with yards hauled aback and "cockbilled" so as to pass through the traffic. That type of vessel was new to me and a casual acquaint- ance told me that they were "Lumber Luggers" from Northern Michigan. All of these sights were amazing, and gave me an understanding of the ' ' Chicago Hustle ' ' that I had heard and read so much about in the West. This was also my first experience in being "bridged". While I waited for the bridge to close, a line of wagons and horse cars on both sides of the river ex- tended back for several blocks ; also there were perhaps as many persons on foot as there were in vehicles. This was before the adoption of quick acting power bridges. How much more amazing it is to contemplate the changes that have taken place since 1879 and compare the Chicago of today with the Chicago that I saw on my first visit. The regeneration of South Water Street, the Wacker Drive, the new Eush Street Bridge, the tall build- ings, on sites formerly occupied by dealers in country produce, all of these improvements are the result of the indefatigable efforts of Charles F. Wacker for the beautification of the City of Chicago. Naturally, my uppermost thought, during the first visit was that of the great fire. I had an old friend in Chicago with whom I contacted and he, owning a horse IN REMINISCENCE 3 and buggy, took me around for a couple of days, showing me first the only house on the North Side that survived the fire in that section of the city. It was the old Ogden residence, that stood in the middle of the block, North of Washington Square — the site now occupied by the Newberry Library. The story of how it was saved was interesting. The owner, with the assistance of several men with ladders, had covered the side of the house towards the approaching fire with water-soaked carpets and rugs, which with the green trees surrounding the house, and in Washington Square, saved the house from the fate that met all of the houses for miles around. My wife who is aiding me in recalling some of these events was an eye-witness to the valiant efforts to save the Ogden house, for she then was a child of six years living on North Clark Street only a few blocks away. Her father, after considerable difficulty, had suc- ceeded in obtaining a team and truck, and had started to load their furniture, when it became apparent that the fire was approaching so fast there was scarcely enough time for him to save the family; so throwing a few be- longings into the truck, he bundled the family in and covered them with a paulin to protect them from the sparks and embers, carried by the high wind that was driving the fire, at almost race horse speed. They drove out Clark Street to Elston Avenue and joined thousands of other refugees on the prairies. As they were passing the Ogden house they saw the men working — as they thought — on a hopeless task. 4 IN REMINISCENCE About twenty years after, Mrs. Coyne attempted to show me about where their house had been, but the sec- tion was so built up that she could not pick the exact location. While we were trying to find the site of her old home, Mrs. Coyne and I compared notes and found that while her father was passing through that terrible ex- perience of saving my future wife, I was selling New York papers in East Orange, yelling my head oft: "All about the Chicago Fire! Thieves hanging from lamp posts ! ' ' There was warrant for what we yelled, as the papers stated that, ' ' Ghouls had been caught and hanged to the nearest lamp post. ' ' We boys were unable to agree as to whether to pronounce it "gools" or "go wis" so we called out that thieves were being hanged. The fire started on October 8th, 1871. After the West Side was practically destroyed the wind changed and the flames spread across the south branch of the river to the South Side. After licking up the South Side the wind changed again and the flames crossed the main branch and cleaned up the North Side of the city. There had been a long period of dry weather and the houses, being built mostly of wood, burned like tinder. In all, there were seventeen thousand four hundred and fifty buildings consumed, and two hundred and fifty lives lost. The population of the city was, in 1870 — 306,605. One hundred thousand people were left homeless and the property loss was $196,000,000. This was the largest fire in the history of this country until the time of the San Francisco Earthquake fire— 1906. Chapter II During the few days I was in Chicago I managed through the kindness of my horse and buggy friend, to see quite a lot of the city. After viewing the Ogden house we went to the West Side, to where the fire started in Mrs. O'Leary's cow shed. I had heard and read a great deal about that famous cow and her illustrious owners, and do not wonder that many people scoff at the idea that there ever was such an animal. That is not strange at all, when one considers the many conflicting tales that have been told in print and speech about the origin of the Chicago Fire. One story is to the effect that Mrs. O'Leary did not have a cow, and could not milk one if she had it ! Away with that story — for there never was a woman by that name, owning a cow, who could not extract more of the lacteal fluid from the creature than any man or woman living. Another story goes on to state that Mrs. O'Leary would not give her old man his supper until he took the lamp out with him to milk the cow. Then he, in a fit of temper, gave the cow a kick because she was holding out on him ; then the cow kicked at 'Leary but hit the lamp and that started the fire. Then again, I saw, not many years ago, a picture in a comic paper showing Mrs. O'Leary milking the cow from the Port side facing for- ward. If that picture was correct, the cow probably kicked at Mrs. O'Leary and landed on the lamp. That story is reasonable for anyone who has ever milked 6 IN REMINISCENCE knows that no self-respecting cow would submit without protest to so gross a breach of cow conventionality. From what my friend told me while the cow story was still young, I am constrained to believe that Mr. 'Leary came home later than usual, and put off milking until after he had his corned beef and cabbage. Then he took the lamp and milk pail intending to go about it in the usual way; he placed the bucket under the source of supply and was getting along all right until the cow switched her tail around his face, nearly blinding him, causing him to boot the lamp over; thus setting fire to the hay before he could stop it. In conclusion, I am convinced that the 'Leary 's did own a cow ; that the lamp did set fire to the hay ; and that their house and all others for miles around were consumed in the great conflagration; but, I never did hear what became of the cow. The next place we visited was " Packing Town" and the Union Stock Yards. The large packing houses, the cattle, sheep and hog pens, even at that time, covered hundreds of acres. It was a world in itself as I saw it, and a busy world at that. We spent several hours there and then did not see all that was to be seen, although we visited one of the hog killing houses and a beef butcher- ing establishment. As we were leaving we saw something not uncommon in those days — an escaped long-horned Texas steer, on a dead run with several mounted cowboys (the real thing) in pursuit. They did not catch up with the beast until he had thrust his head through a saloon window and a policeman had emptied his gun into him. IN REMINISCENCE 7 The second day we went by train to see the town of Pullman and the immense shops of the Pullman Palace Car Company. That was well worth the trip. We first walked through the town, which was laid out in orderly fashion and kept as clean as any "Spotless Town" ever built. The houses were built to suit the needs and means of the employees and as I was told, let to them at reason- able rates of rental. One could almost estimate the salary of each employee by the size and location of the house in which he lived. Then there were the shops, and, greatest of all, the Giant Corliss Engine. If I was correctly informed it was the largest stationary steam engine ever constructed. It had been installed as an exhibit in the Philadelphia Cen- tennial Exposition in 1876 and was used to furnish power for the whole show. At the close of the Fair it was pur- chased by Mr. Pullman and moved to his plant. What I saw during my first visit to Chicago, so im- pressed me that I came to the conclusion that the best place to go was where the growing was good. That fitted Chicago to a nicety. So, four years later, in the Spring of 1883 I returned to make it my permanent home. I was like thousands of others who, impressed by the "Spirit of Chicago", were constantly coming in to join in the making of the great "City by the Inland Sea". In the decade between 1880 to 1890 the population of the city had practically doubled. Chapter III Chicago at this time was nearing the end of one of its most important improvements, lifting itself out of the mud by raising the grade of street and sidewalk levels, which took several years to accomplish, as it in- volved the raising of many buildings. At this time, the work in many of the outlying wards had not yet been completed, so that one walking along the street in one block would be obliged to ascend four or five steps to the elevated board sidewalk and then descend to the level of the next block. The streets and car tracks had mostly been raised. A resume of Chicago as I saw it on my return in 1883, brings to mind memories of the principle points of interest, and public places that naturally would interest a newcomer. First of these were the hotels and theatres, in the central part of the city. Among the hotels the old Palmer House, at the cor- ner of Monroe and State was the most outstanding of the hotels at that time. It was in all probability the best known hotel in the country west of New York. There was one attraction there that advertised the Palmer House as the hotel with the floor of "Silver Dollars". There were more stories told about these "Silver Dollars ' ' in circulation, than there were dollars ! When I first saw them they were in the floor of Bill Eden 's barber shop, around the corner on Monroe Street. That was the Palmer House barber shop, and was a part IN REMINISCENCE 9 of that hostelry, except that it was owned and operated by Col. Will Eden. Those silver dollars certainly did circulate. They were passed around like the stories about Mrs. O'Leary's cow. Not so long after I saw them, I read an article in an eastern paper referring to the " Silver Dollars in the restaurant floor of a Chicago hotel". One time while I was in Newark, New Jersey, I nearly got into a hot argument with a man who insisted they were in the floor of the main lobby. In another story I read, reference was made to the silver dollars in the "bar-room floor of the Palmer House". Then, lo, and behold ; ' ' Jaf sie ' ' of Lindberg notability, saw them in the floor of the lobby. How they got back in the lobby is a puzzle to me. Those silver dollars surely had a wonder- ful circulation. Now the astounding truth is that there were no silver dollars at all, in the premises ! The real truth came out when the Palmer House was demolished, to make way for the palatial hotel now on the old site. It was then discovered that the silver dollars in the floor of the barber shop were only halves of dollars, that had been sawed into two parts. At least that was what the Chicago papers said, when the old building was torn down. All of the above goes to show how one dol- lar can be made to serve the purpose of two. Next in importance among the hotels was the old Grand Pacific, which for so many years was located at Clark and Jackson Streets. John B. Drake the popular proprietor and founder, was for years as much of a landmark as his famous hotel. For a long time, the 10 IN REMINISCENCE annual game dinner of the Grand Pacific was the talk of the town, and made good reading matter for the papers, throughout the country. Lucky indeed were those who were favored by an invitation to one of those annual feasts. All kinds of game animals, and wild birds, were served at that dinner. Mr. Drake combed the markets and made special contacts with hunters in order to pro- cure the largest variety of wild meat possible for the occasion. I believe next in order of that time, was the ' 'Le- land" at Jackson and Michigan — afterwards named the Stratford. At the time of which I write the Lelands were the most celebrated hotel men in America. Their 's was the first of any importance of the chain hotel systems. The old Tremont House at Lake and Dearborn was another popular hotel at that time. In recent years the Tremont House has become the property of the Chicago University and converted into a College of Dentistry. Then there was the Maxwell House, the Matteson House and several other hotels of more or less promi- nence, including the Revere House, opposite the old Chi- cago and North Western Depot, on North Wells Street, the Sherman House at Clark and Randolph and the Gault House at Clinton and Madison. Of course, there were other hotels, and lodging houses to fit the means of the needy, such as " Tom's Lodging House' ' and the " Newsboys' Home", the lat- ter standing by itself in the middle of the square where Marshall Field and Company's wholesale establishment IN REMINISCENCE 11 was later built. Marshall Field and Co. has since moved to the Merchandise Mart. The classiest of all hotels in Chicago, was the Richelieu, on Michigan Avenue, built and presided over by "Cardinal Bemis". There is no doubt but the Richelieu, in appointments and cuisine, was unsurpassed in Chicago in its time. The theatres of down town Chicago in 1883 were "McVicker's" on Madison, near State Street, the Grand Opera House on Clark between Randolph and Washing- ton, Haverly's Theatre, afterwards the Columbia, on Monroe Street, Hooleys Theatre on Randolph between Clark and La Salle, the Olympic on Clark Street, between Randolph and Lake, and the Academy of Music on Hal- stead Street, a little out of the center of down town but quite popular in its day. The owner of McVicker's theatre was one of the prominent men of the City, and no list of the civic leaders would be complete without the name of Colonel McVicker. There were other smaller stock theatres in more remote locations. Sam T. Jacks, on Madison Street opposite Mc- Vicker ? s, came later. Among other amusement places worthy of mention was: "North Side Turner Hall" on North Clark Street near Chicago Avenue, where every Sunday afternoon there were high class band concerts, always well at- tended mostly by German families, enjoying the music while seated at tables drinking their beer and other re- freshments. The place was well conducted in an orderly manner. The music was furnished by Johnny Hand's Orchestra. 12 IN REMINISCENCE If a disorderly character not belonging there, was disturbing or noisy he was gently conducted out of the hall by a couple of members of the Turnverien and if he objected to their gentle methods he was turned over to the police who took him for a ride to the Chicago Avenue Police Station nearby. It was while living in San Antonio that I became acquainted with a neighbor whose father had been a member of the old Germania Maennechor which was organized in a few hours to sing at the bier of President Lincoln while it lay in state in the court house in Chicago, on its way to Springfield. It was while looking for more information on the subject that I recently got in touch with Major A. F. W. Sieble under whom my son Mason served as a private in the World War. Major Sieble, who is now president of the Germania Club, informed me that it was from the inspiration of the songs of the chorus conducted by Mr. Otto Lob, that sprang the organization of the German Maennechor, now the Germania Club of Chicago. The first Exposition building on Michigan Avenue was another place for occasional entertainment, such as the annual Flower Show, and for exposition purposes, also conventions. The old "Art Gallery' ' was nearby at Jackson Street, about where the Art Institute now stands. Then, not the least important to me in those days was Kohl and Middleton 's Dime Museum on Clark Street near Madison. Also there was the panorama, Battle of Gettysburg, and Libby Prison, both on Wabash Avenue. Chaptee rv Mostly noted as the place for high class musical at- tractions was Central Music Hall, located on State Street near Washington. Central Music Hall was the home, if not the birth place, of the Thomas Concerts, conducted by the famous Doctor Theodore Thomas, promoter of the finest musical productions of his day and time. It w T as in Central Music Hall that Professor David Swing held services, under the auspices of The Peoples Church, every Sunday morning, always well attended. Professor Swing was succeeded by Doctor Dwight Hillis who in turn was succeeded by Doctor Frank Gon- zales, the prince of pulpit oratory, whose sermons or lec- tures as you choose to call them — I enjoyed for many years following in the Chicago Auditorium Theatre. I became personally acquainted with Doctor Gon- zales and enjoyed the honor of his presence at a stag birthday party, at our home on Warren Avenue. That was some ten years after the time of which I am writing. One of the special attractions Mrs. Coyne and I at- tended in Central Music Hall, was, as near as I can re- member, in the Fall of 1893 or 1894. I doubt if anyone who attended the concert ever forgot the tragic ending of that night's performance. It was a special musical concert, given by Professor Honey featuring Blatchford Kavanaugh, no doubt the greatest boy soprano ever known up to that time. 14 IN REMINISCENCE His voice seemed almost miraculous, even to Pro- fessor Eoney, who had discovered him in his boys choir and had trained him and managed his career. At the time of which I write, the boy had been sing- ing in public for several years, so there was much specu- lation over the question as to how long his soprano voice would last, before his man's voice would break in. The catastrophe came the night we were there ! The house was filled to capacity. Many of those present had heard him on other occasions, as he was a great favorite in Chicago. The boy rendered his first number in his usual good form and was loudly applauded with calls for encore; to which he responded, and was called again. When he came out in response to his second encore, there was no thought I believe in his own mind of what was going to happen. After the applause greeting his appearance had sub- sided, he started to sing Eobin Adair, I believe that was his song, but I may be mistaken. At all events the first high note seemed to stop him. He looked around at his accompanist as if surprised and bewildered; then tried again, but his voice cracked, and he was through. The curtain came down. Then after a short delay Professor Eoney appeared on the stage and announced the sad fact that Blatchford's career as a boy soprano was ended, but he hoped that when his man's voice could be devel- oped he would sing again. There was a dead silence in the audience for a mo- ment, and then women commenced to cry and men shed manly tears. Quite a number of people, presumably IN REMINISCENCE 15 friends of Professor Roney and the boy, started towards the stage but Blatchford could not be seen. I am not sure whether anyone remained, but I know that we left immediately, feeling as badly I believe as any of the boy's best friends. I do not now remember whether he developed a good male voice or not, but have been informed he did not. Chapter V Lincoln Park as now, was one of the show places, although nothing compared to the Lincoln Park of today. Garfield Park on the West Side, formerly Central Park, was an attraction, but Jackson Park on the South Side was the largest of all with more natural features than the others. They were all used more for picnic and play grounds than for sight seeing. The Government pier, and the Water Works Cribs far out in the Lake attracted visitors and could be reached in small excursion boats, when weather would permit. On the Government Pier, Black Jack Yattow's bumboat did a good business, selling fried fish and cold beer. The fish were lake perch, fresh caught, of which there was an abundance in those days. Every day when the wind and weather was favorable there could be seen hundreds of men and boys with fishing poles out on the piers fishing. And they caught plenty of fish, as could be seen by the long strings of perch they brought in. At times there would be people waiting to buy from them. The Water Tower and pumping works at North Dearborn and Chicago Avenue, was another place that attracted visitors. The large pumps, drawing water from the intake crib four miles out in the lake was then the chief source of water supply for the City of Chicago. This recalls to my memory an exciting event in the history of Chicago. IN REMINISCENCE 17 In the early Spring when the ice was breaking up, there was always danger of " Anchor' ' ice clogging up the intake tunnel, through which the water was pumped to the city mains. There was an iron grating at the opening to keep out debris and chunks of floating ice which sometimes stopped the flow, so men with long poles had to be constantly on hand to keep the opening clear. On one occasion the men were unable to keep back the ice and the grating was closed and frozen, so that the pumps were powerless and the water supply cut off. There was great excitement and much fear, over the situation as the man in charge of the crib admitted his inability to clear the stoppage which was getting worse as time went on. John E. Scully was then a young man, but was a diver and owned a diving suit which he brought out and volunteered his services if the authorities would get him out to the crib in a tug boat — no easy task in itself, as the Lake was full of broken ice all piled up, between the shore and the crib. They managed to get Scully out there, where he donned his diving suit, armed himself with a sharp crow- bar and got busy about nineteen feet under water. As he cut away the ice from the grating, he did not realize that the pumps on shore were working. So, as the open- ing became clear Scully was sucked up flat against the grating and held there helpless. However, the keeper of the crib got word to the pumping station to shut off the power, and Scully was drawn up more dead than alive. But he had relieved Chicago from a grave situa- tion. Chapter VI Most interesting I believe to sightseers, was the old tree that marked the place where the fugitives from Fort Dearborn were overtaken by the Indians and cruelly murdered, or taken prisoner. Fort Dearborn, situated near the mouth of the river, about where Rush Street bridge is now located, was rilled with early settlers who had taken refuge there from the Indians, at the time of what is known in history as the Tecumseh War— 1812. After a state of siege, when supplies were about ex- hausted, the refugees agreed to evacuate the Fort on the promise that they would be guaranteed safe conduct on the way back to Detroit, the nearest safe harbor at the time. The terms were agreed upon, the Fort Commander and a mere handful of soldiers, escorting the refugees filed out of the Fort and started on the long trail to De- troit. They had not gone more than two or three miles along the shore of the lake, when a horde of Indians who had been hiding behind sand hills — attacked them where they were huddled under the large tree, with the result that all met the fate as above stated. The tree stood on the side of the street adjoining the palatial residence of George M. Pullman. It was hard to realize when reading the tablet, that (as years go by) it was so short a time since Chicago was in the hands of savages. Chapter VII Kinsley's Restaurant was the most popular eating house in its day. It was a catering establishment in every sense of the word. Mr. Kinsley in appearance and manner was the very personification of ideal host. He not only catered to the patrons of his restaurant and stand-up lunch counter, but also had a large business outside, supplying suppers at weddings and other social gatherings. He had the paraphernalia and equipment to take full charge of the catering for a wedding break- fast or banquet, within any reasonable distance of Chi- cago. The first Kinsley's was on Washington Street, which some years later moved to Adams Street, facing the Fed- eral Building. I am here reminded of a luncheon in which I parti- cipated, in the Adams Street establishment. The luncheon was given by Major Busch of the An- heuser-Busch Brewing Company of St. Louis, to a son who was to be married that evening. Most of the guests were relatives and friends, largely representative of the brewers of Chicago and Milwaukee. I remember one of the Anheusers had come all the way over from London, to attend the wedding. I was returning from a funeral and, as it was a little after lunch time, I dropped into Kinsley's for a snack at the lunch counter. There I ran into Fritz Sontag, who was the Chicago Branch Su- perintendent of the famous St. Louis brewery. When 20 IN REMINISCENCE he saw me he insisted that I must come and join the party upstairs. He said, "You know they will enjoy meeting the Collector of Internal Kevenue, and I am sure you will enjoy the luncheon.' ' Well I knew that meant an hour or two, so I phoned my office to that effect and ac- cepted the invitation. There were about fifty guests at table, and Mr. Bauman, the surviving partner of Mr. Kinsley — then deceased — was one of the guests at the table. Did I say it was a luncheon? I will say now, it was a banquet ! Some of the wines served were in really cob- web covered bottles from the Kinsley cellar, where they had been stored for years; to be served only on such important occasions. The cooks had been taxed to their utmost skill in preparation of the food. After the coffee and cognac Major Busch who pre- sided as toastmaster called on several guests for short talks, and then called on me, as Collector of Internal Eevenue. I arose and apologized "for crashing in" but told them that Sontag insisted and I was glad that he had. Most of what I said was of little importance ex- cept a few lines that they never forgot, as I was after- wards told. I told them that we, in the revenue service, could easily see where the shipping breweries were creating a situation that would put them all out of business before many years, if they continued in the practice of establish- ing saloons where they were not needed, in order to in- crease their output. As an example, I told them of a case in point. Out in the small city of St. Charles on the Fox River, I had IN REMINISCENCE 21 for several years spent the summer months with my family, I commuting every day except Sundays. There had been for years one saloon in the town, kept by a very decent old German, whose father for years had kept the same place. At no time were minors or women allowed in the place, nor was ever beer or any drinks served to a man who had enough. At night the room in the back was the recognized meeting place for the mayor, the banker and leading business men of the town. In the daytime most of the trade came from the farmers who brought their milk to the creamery across the way, grain to the gristmill adjoining. The beer served was from the Elgin Brewery, a few miles up the river, and it was good beer. Well, as I told my hearers, some of the shipping breweries wanted that trade, but they could not get it. So one brewery agent from Chicago came out there and succeeded in picking out a sort of a ne'er-do-well fellow to start in the saloon business. Between the two they managed to get the city officials to authorize another saloon, and a license was granted to the fellow to open up, in competition with the old Ger- man. The brewery of course paid for the license and all other expenses, just to get that beer trade. What was the result? The new fellow would sell drinks to everybody who had money to pay for what they drank. Very soon the new place was violating the laws in various ways, and it was not long before the citizens took up the question and voted both saloons out of business. Now as I stated at the time, the revenue office had seen so much of that sort of business we could see that 22 IN REMINISCENCE the competing shipping breweries were doing more for Prohibition than any other force! After the luncheon, many of those present said I was right. And time showed that I was right. It was proven sixteen years after. Eace Brothers' Eestaurant on Madison Street was situated about where the main entrance of the Morrison Hotel is now located. When they first opened it was an exclusive shell fish and sea food restaurant. They did a thriving business, during the day, and after the theatre at night. They would close the place for three months in the summer for housecleaning and redecorating and open up on the first day of September with the oyster season. After a few years, Willoughby Hill and Company who at the time had a large retail clothing establishment at the corner of Clark and Madison Street, opened the "Boston Oyster House" in the basement under the store. The "Boston" took a lot of the oyster business away from Eace Brothers, but they staggered along for a time, until Charles E. Eector in 1885 opened up the basement at the corner of Clark and Monroe Streets. That meant curtains for Eace Brothers. When Charles E. Eector opened his first restaurant it was "Curtains", as to quality for every restaurant in Chicago. Passersby simply could not look down through the opening from the sidewalk, and see Bob Stites in cap, coat and apron, operating that shell counter, without go- ing down the steps to see what it was all about. After that it was all over. It not only made a customer for Eector 's but it made an agent out of the customer. IN REMINISCENCE 23 Not alone were the good things to eat an attraction, but the spotless white linen was simply immaculate, in quality and cleanliness. That was one of the chief at- tractions. There was a reason for that. Mrs. Rector v a most estimable woman, took full charge of the linen and kept strict supervision on the laundry work. I believe she came to the restaurant nearly every day. Many times as I brought in the bakery goods of a morning I would see Mrs. Rector looking over the laun- dry work. Table cloths, napkins, cooks ' jackets, caps and aprons must be spotless, and ironed to perfection. Never was there a restaurant or hotel in Chicago, where such matters received so much care and attention. And it was talked about everywhere. Who having dined or lunched at Rector's could for- get the genial smiling proprietor? Or, who could forget the personality of " Billy Francis", for a long time, floor manager! Greeting all with good-will, but at all times with eyes like an eagle, keeping watch on both waiters and guests, for any breach of good service on the part of the former, or objectionable character of a guest. At the time of which I write, George Rector — now I believe, the foremost authority on what might be called classical cookery — was a mere boy. A few years later his father sent him to France for a course in the Ecole de Culinaire D'Art, to become a real chef! I remember an incident of about fifteen years later while I was Postmaster of Chicago. I was visiting in New York with Mrs. Coyne and my sister Anne, when I had an invitation to inspect the Coronia, at that time the 24 IN REMINISCENCE latest and largest of the Cunard Line ships. We went from there to Bector's for lunch. The father was not there but George was. He had only recently returned from Paris, a full fledged French chef. It was the first time I had seen him since he was a boy. He sat down with us for a few minutes and then asked to be excused saying that he had been showing the pastry cook a new dessert confection, which he would like to have us sample. Of course, we assented. After a few minutes he returned with the most delightful deli- cacy we had ever seen or tasted. It was a french pastry with a red raspberry filling covered with a light frosting, and was the most classy sample of a dessert imaginable. I mention this only to show that the boy had in- herited all of the geniality of his father, and was proud of his profession. That was only in the beginning of the George Rector of today. Long may he live ! Getting back to Chicago, there were other restau- rants worthy of mention, for one reason or another, among which was Burcky and Milans on Clark Street between Madison and Monroe. That was the most popu- lar of all in its day. To mention it on the same page with Bector's is like going from the sublime to the ridiculous. But it did catch the crowds, especially those who were looking for the most food for the least money. Quantity more than quality was the distinguishing feature, with correspondingly low prices. And while I am on that line of thought I must not forget "Pittsburg Joe", who had a sort of a cabin on South Clark Street where a man could get a lot for his IN REMINISCENCE 25 money by ordering "two out — draw one, and a stack of whites", meaning two doughnuts, a cup of coffee and two flapjacks, all for fifteen cents. For chops and steaks nobody could beat Billy Boyle's Chop House in Calhoun Place, (better known as Gamblers' Alley), right around the corner from Clark Street. Boyle told me one time when I was collecting my bread bill that when he opened the door of that place ready for business many years before, he threw the key up on the top of the building across the alley, and had never closed. His trade was as heavy during the night as it was in daytime. No place before or since ever served such chops and steaks as Billy Boyle did in those days. He had a glass enclosed ice box just inside the door with a lot of chops and steaks on display, where the custo- mer could make his choice of the cut that pleased his eye. That one would be taken back to the kitchen to be placed on a gridiron, over a charcoal fire, and cooked to a turn fit for a king. His steaks and English mutton chops were about two inches thick. He also had the choicest brands of English Ale and Dublin Stout. A large part of his night trade came from the newspaper men who would go over to Boyle's after they had "put the paper to bed". Chapter VIII As I write about Gamblers' Alley, there comes back to me an incident connected with the Cleveland-Blaine election in 1884. William (Bill) Riley ran a pool room and bucket shop in a large store on the alley about opposite to Boyle's Chop House. Riley was known to be the chief stake holder in Chicago. Those who knew him believed their money was just as safe in his hands, as it would be in the best bank in Chicago. Many bets had been made on the results of the election. It was reported at the time that before the final announcement of Cleveland's election was received, Riley had a million dollars in bets in his hands as stake holder. The result of the election was in doubt for a week or more, because of delays in back country returns in New York State. Consequently as conflicting reports came over the wire, there was much "hedging" of bets, which increased the amounts in Riley's hands. Finally the official returns showed that New York State had gone to Cleveland, by little more than one thousand votes, giving him the electoral vote; that settled the case as far as the betters were concerned, but not with Bill Riley! The morning the papers announced the final result, there was a rush by the winners to Riley's office, but there was no Riley ! Nor could he be located by his office employees ! IN REMINISCENCE 27 As the excitement increased, extra papers were run off and the newsboys yelled out the harrowing reports that Riley had disappeared. Gamblers ' Alley became crowded with anxious winners and curiosity seekers. Many believed that Riley had decamped with the stakes. It was shortly after noon when Riley came walking into the Alley, smiling at the crowd as he made his way to his office and made the announcement he was ready to pay off ! It seems that he left his home at the usual time, but went into hiding where he could get in touch with New York City, and be assured that the Republican Man- agers conceded Cleveland 's election ; and there would be no contest. Chapter IX Eighteen hundred and eighty-six was a fateful year in the History of Chicago. It seemed for a while, that the "twin devils of Anarchy", Communism and Socialism, were gaining in their efforts to obtain control of Union Labor. There were two elements in this movement; one in favor of progress through means of peaceful propaganda, the other through force, backed by fire arms and dyna- mite bombs. The latter were known as anarchists and made the most noise. They were backed up by their official organ, "The Arbeiter Zeitung". The first serious outbreak was by the mob at the opening of the New Board of Trade Building at La Salle and Jackson Streets. Not much attention had been paid to the Lake Front meetings, or the curbstone soap box orators, up to this time, although the Packing House strikes and riots had revealed a serious state of affairs. When the time came for the opening exercises of the Chamber of Commerce, crowds began to gather after dark at different points, then as if by a prearranged plan, they marched to La Salle and Jackson Streets, bearing red flags and singing LaMarseillaise. There was a strong police guard surrounding the building, and a reserve force nearby at the Harrison Street Police Station. The mob was yelling out threats to kill the police. Others wanted to enter the building, which was filled with IN REMINISCENCE 29 invited guests. Carriages were standing in the streets, and windows were smashed. Finally the police called on the reserves and the mob was dispersed. There were no shots fired. Then came the big strike and riots of the McCormick Reaper Works, and the Packing House strike, at the Stock Yards. The mobs at the McCormick shops did great damage to property, and there were threats of burning the whole city. On the night of May 4th there was a large gathering at Hay Market Square — Randolph and Desplaines Streets — in response to a call widely distributed to come, and it was said that they were advised to come armed! The call for the meeting was signed by men who had been active in other outbreaks. The speakers announced were men who had been outspoken in their advocacy of violent means to overthrow all city, state and national government ! The police were on the alert, and ready to intercede if the meeting became disorderly. A large detail of police was on duty at the Desplaines Street Station, awaiting orders from the Chief. Plain clothes detectives mingled with the crowd — reporting to the station (only two blocks from there), at intervals, as the meeting went on. One after another of the speakers became more and more violent, until the crowd seemed to be getting beyond control, then the police were ordered out. I believe Captain Ward was in command as they marched to the edge of the crowd, where it was estimated 30 IN REMINISCENCE five to ten thousand people were assembled. Then the captain, in the name of the law, ordered that the meeting be closed, and that the people go to their homes ! The man addressing the meeting at the time, replied, "We are peacefully assembled.' ' Eight then, a hissing, flaming bomb came flying from an outside iron stairway in an alley diagonally across the street from where the policemen were drawn up. It landed in their midst, exploding as it struck ! There were seven policemen killed instantly, and many others were writhing on the ground badly injured, several died afterwards from their wounds. Then pandemonium broke loose! Policemen who were not disabled immediately opened fire in the direction whence came the bomb. I doubt if it was ever known how many of the rioters were killed or injured. Bullets were flying in all directions, and from all sides, for a while before the mob was disbursed. Chicago was boiling over with excitement the follow- ing day. The police raided every resort where socialists or anarchists had been in the habit of meeting, and the homes of the leaders as well. All sorts of incendiary circulars, guns, revolvers, ammunition, and instruction for making bombs of every sort were dug up. A large number of leaders were arrested. Eight of these were indicted for conspiracy to kill ! After the usual law's delays, the indicted Hay Mar- ket Anarchists were brought to trial before Judge Gary, the oldest, at least one of the oldest, presiding judges in Cook County. IN REMINISCENCE 31 All Chicago was excited over the trial. I might say with equal truth, that the whole country was interested and stirred. Threats were made from all parts by sympathizers, hinting of dire things that would happen if the accused were convicted. Indeed the prisoners themselves thought their friends on the outside would never permit them to be hung. After conviction, and the men were sentenced, the authorities took all sorts of pre- cautions to prevent any outbreak of violence. All during the trial, crowds were milling around the court house on all sides, but were kept moving by the police. Five were sentenced to be hung, two to imprison- ment for life and one to fifteen years. During this time I was running the restaurant on North State Street, one block around the corner from the court house and jail. We lived in the flat above the store. Many of the jail and court house officials and em- ployees would come to our place for lunch, so I had a pretty good knowledge of what was going on. When the day arrived for the execution, the situa- tion was really alarming. Mrs. Coyne was confined to her apartment, because of the expected arrival of our first child. Her mother and sister were as careful as I was not to let her know that we were uneasy about what was going on around the jail. The streets, for one block each way, were roped off and guarded by policemen on every side. On the tops of buildings surrounding the jail, were National Guard soldiers with rifles. The bridges over the river were opened at a given hour and remained so until all the ex- citement was over. 32 IN REMINISCENCE The sidewalks were crowded thick with people of all kinds but always moving, kept so by the police. I locked the door of the restaurant and the hallway going upstairs. It would have taken very little violent action to have started a panic that would have precipi- tated a riot of those thousands of sympathizers of the men who were being executed. At one time, as I remember, it was just as the men were on the walk to the gallows, Lucy Parsons, a colored woman, wife of one of the condemned men, and one of the leaders, suddenly darted out of the crowd and threw her child across the ropes, screaming out, "Let the child in to see its father murdered ! ' ' In an instant she was taken in charge and hustled off to a patrol wagon, many of which were standing around. That was the only startling disturbance that occurred. I was told afterwards by deputy sheriffs that the condemned men were firm in the belief up to the last minute that there would be an assault on the jail, to effect their rescue. One of the condemned men had blown off a part of his face by biting a bomb that had been smug- gled in to him, concealed in a loaf of bread. By that means he had cheated the gallows by killing himself. A great sigh of relief went up from thousands of Chicagoans when the whole thing was over — and that put an end to anarchistic demonstrations in Chicago. I might add that "pink parlor socialism" got an awful set back that lasted for some time, at least, in Chicago. Those who received prison sentences were after- wards pardoned by Governor Altgeld, on the ground, as he stated, "They were convicted by a packed jury". Chapter X No truthful compilation of early or late reminis- cences of Chicago would be complete without reference to the First Ward and its two colorful picturesque alder- men. John Coughlin and Michael Kenna have held their positions since "Hector was a pup" — and will continue to hold them until all of Hector's progeny, direct and sundry, will have passed beyond the memory of mankind — unless "Father Time" with his hour glass and scythe, decrees otherwise. Bathouse John and Hinkey Dink, as they are more generally known, have had more printer's ink spilled in "writing them up" than all the Prima Donnas that ever came to Chicago. It is not my purpose to add to the praises that have been lavished upon them, but I must say that after twenty-five years of business experience in the First Ward, I believe their constituents did well by retaining them. They have a place in the history of Chicago, because for many years they have held a political power in the City Council, of either veto or favoring influence that connected them more or less with every public movement that came before the Board of Aldermen. Also, there were few candidates for Mayor during that time who did not have to reckon with the "Bathouse and Hinkey Dink". 34 IN REMINISCENCE They also cut a big figure in the election of Congress- men from the First Congressional District. Politically, the First Ward was the "Barnum Circus" of Chicago. It was a cosmopolitan show, people from everywhere, all kinds, from roughneck canvas men to star spangled per- formers. In many respects, Bathouse John was the ring master. The First Ward was like that! It had its song birds in the Grand Opera, and a lot of other birds in the old Buckingham Palace, the popular night club on South Dearborn or was it Custom House Place 1 It had some of the finest hotels in the country, and Tom's lodging house ; to say nothing of more humble flops. In the harbor were anchored rich men's yachts, within a biscuit throw of Black Jack Yattow's Bumboat. Coffee John's lunch car was in the next block to the Grand Pacific Hotel with its most popular bar, except one; that one was Hinkey Dink's beer parlor; twenty times more popular than the Grand Pacific, serving the " biggest and coolest" for five cents. State Street in the old days, had much variation of attractions. From Randolph to Van Buren was the silk stocking business section, below Van Buren it was dif- ferent, especially back in the old days when it was known as the " Levee". Between State Street and Clark was South Dearborn Street, which for a long time seemed to be at a stand still ; except at night. After dark, it was in competition with Custom House Place. The one connect- ing link on the amusement route was "Hieniegabooblers" on Quincy Street, which was one of the chief attractions of Chicago drummers, showing their country customers IN REMINISCENCE 35 the sights of the city, and it was one of the sights; all kinds of tricks and freak equipment, dribble glasses on the bar, a collapsable stairway on the way to the " Mu- seum Upstairs", where there was no museum, except what the unsophisticated saw when the stairs collapsed. Wabash Aveune, between State and Michigan Ave- nue ("Boul. Mich.") sort of stood by itself, for a long time, as if undecided whether to vie with the "snooty" Michigan Boulevard or trot along with the more plebeian State Street. Finally, when the elevated loop was established with a line on Wabash, it sort of gave up the ghost; not realizing that the prediction of some prominent real estate authority, that the loop around Lake, Wabash, Van Buren and Fifth Avenue, would create a ' ' Golden Circle ' ' enclosing that section, which in time would enhance the value of all real estate within the district. A prediction, that in time, did come true. Hinkey Dink's Bar room, with the picture of the "big schooner" on a sign in front, is the foundation for the story that the two-masted schooner at the top of the tower on the Board of Trade Building, was put there to advertise Dink's place because it pointed in that direc- tion, which story might have been believed by some of his customers. There was one outstanding attraction that brought sightseers to Dink's place, and that was the "performing- bar flies", a source of amusement that was then enjoyed by many people outside of his regular clientele. There were always poor fellows hanging around the place, who at times, did not have the price of a glass of beer, and 36 IN REMINISCENCE consequently were not so warmly welcome to the free lunch counter at the end of the bar. With characteristic ability to overcome difficulties, these poor fellows would stand around apparently uncon- cerned as to what was going on, until a customer drinking beer would rest his glass on the bar, then while one fellow would do something to attract the attention of the custo- mer, another, with the agility of a gad fly, would reach out, grab the customer's glass, and would be on the way to the free lunch when the customer turned to find his beer gone. That was another popular amusement for city salesmen to show their out of town friends. Since writing the above I read an Associated Press Dispatch in the San Antonio Express announcing that "Bathouse John" had conferred upon him the "addi- tional title" of "Sir John Coughlin, Knight of the Bath." This was at a special * ' Court of St. James ' ' held by fel- low members of the City Council. That is as it should be, but I notice that "Mayor Edward J. Kelly" and former "Mayor William H. Thompson" were among the guests present. It seems rather incongruous to see my old friend, former Mayor Thompson, messing around a Court of Boyalty, after his reputed threat to give the former King George of England "a sock in the nose". Chapter I In foregoing chapters describing early Chicago, with the exception of a few interjections for comparisons, I have dwelt lightly on personal contact with the forward growth of the "Garden City" — as it was generally called in its younger days. In 1883 unemployment was almost an unknown word. Anyone really looking for work, could find it, without much difficulty. The "Help Wanted" advertising columns in the newspapers were filled, while the "Situations Wanted" were very small in comparison. After a few days sight-seeing I started out by fol- lowing up an ad for a young man to work in a meat market and grocery, on West Madison Street. I had noticed that Madison Street was the principal retail center of the West Side. When I called at the place designated I found that the job had been filled. However, the store owner was very affable and told me how he had secured a job only a few years before. He then advised me to go right out Madison Street, inquire at each store, and he would make a bet that I would find a job before I reached Ashland Avenue, which was less than a mile from where we stood. So I followed his advice, going from grocery to mar- 38 IN REMINISCENCE ket, and market to store, with the result that I had a job before I had gone more than half a mile. I walked into " Fulton Market", a prosperous look- ing meat and vegetable market on the corner of Throop and Madison Street, asked the proprietor, John Wilson, if he needed any help, telling of former experience, at the same time showing him a letter of recommendation from the man for whom I had worked for the last two years in East Orange, New Jersey. He sized me up then and asked me my age, which I answered telling him I would be twenty-three in Septem- ber. He then told me that he thought I was more of a man than he was looking for: He said that what he really needed was a boy about fifteen or sixteen to board with him, take care of two horses and drive a delivery wagon. He doubted if I would want the job. I told him I was looking for work; and was in a position to board with him and let him try me out for a week, before we agreed on what he should pay me in addition to room and board. He then told me what my duties would be. First, I would have to get up about 3 :30 in the morn- ing, feed and curry two horses ; then make a pot of coffee and call him at four o 'clock ; have one rig ready for him to drive down town to South Water Street to buy his produce for the day's business; get my own breakfast, and be at the store with the other rig at six o'clock to help him unload and get ready for the day's work. I would run the delivery wagon in the forenoon, help clean up the tools and shop in the afternoon, make special deliveries, and drive home at six o'clock. His 72V REMINISCENCE 39 father would drive the other rig home at four in the afternoon. I would have supper at seven. "How did that strike me f ' ', he asked. I said, ' i Fine ! ' ' And that settled it. I moved to his house that night. After a few days Mr. Wilson asked me if five dol- lars a week with board and room would be satisfactory, until he could fix a place for me as stallman, in the store. I told him that would be all right if I did not have to wait too long. He laughed and said he thought it would not be many weeks. I had shown what I could do in the way of cutting meats and waiting on customers, which had not escaped the eye of the man he then had in that poistion. After two months with Wilson I was offered a new job on the North Side driving a wholesale milk wagon for Z. C. Peck, a large dealer on North Franklin Street. Steve, Wilson's stallman, told me that Peck was a friend of his and the job was mine if I wanted it. The pay was forty dollars per month and board, about twice what Wilson was paying me. On the following Sunday Steve and I went over to see Mr. Peck, who seemed to take a liking to me, showed me my room and introduced me to his family as if I had taken the job. It looked good to me, so I took the job, gave Wilson a week's notice and moved to the North Side the week following. After hustling milk cans for three months J became acquainted with a baker by the name of E. Peters who had a fine retail bakery on North Clark Street. After a short acquaintance Mr. Peters invited me to come over 40 7N REMINISCENCE and see what a fine place he had. I did so in a day or two and found he really did have a good looking bakery, and was turning out a fine line of goods. Mr. Peters then confided in me, and told me that he wanted to get into the wholesale business. He said he thought I was the kind of a man he was looking for, to work up the hotel and restaurant trade ; he said he had a new wagon and a fine horse, which he would let me have at my own price to help me get started, and was sure I could do a good business. The work I was doing on the milk wagon was pretty hard. Getting up at two a. m., handling heavy eight- gallon cans of milk all morning, was no child's play; even though I was through at noon. I talked the matter over with Mr. Peck, telling him that if I should conclude to go with Peters, there need be no hurry, so he could have time to get a man in my place. Peck then told me about other men whom he knew, own- ing bread routes, who were making as high as fifty dol- lars a week. During those days, all of the large bakers disposed of their output, through drivers who had their own horses and wagons, buying their goods at a fifteen percent dis- count, and selling to the stores and restaurants at whole- sale prices. Peters offered to pay me fifteen percent on bread and twenty percent on cakes. He also agreed to let me have the horse and wagon, including harness, for three hundred fifty dollars on which I could pay one hundred cash, and the balance on time. IN REMINISCENCE 41 I took his proposition under advisement for a week and conferred with some of my milk customers to see what trade I might obtain from them. I was very much encouraged by the prospects. Peters was able to turn over to me one customer worth ten to twelve dollars per day. Mr. Peck secured a customer for me that was good for five or six dollars a day, any day I should start. I had the promise of several other smaller prospects, amounting to ten or twelve dollars. So all in all I could start out with at least thirty dollars per day, possibly more. Before closing the deal, I found that Mrs. Peters was part of the firm, so the three of us sat down and managed to make out a bill of sale to me for one black horse called Pete, one covered bakery wagon, and one set of harness, all in consideration of $350.00, payable as follows: one hundred dollars cash, five notes for fifty dollars each, payable as follows: one note payable in sixty days, the other four to be paid — one every thirty days following from the payment of the first note, the notes to be dated accordingly. Peters did not seem to like the idea of me owning the rig before it was paid for in full. Mrs. Peters thought that it was better that the outfit be in my name, so that they would not be responsible for any damages in case of accidents and damage suits. I heartily agreed with her. Peters and I each held a copy of the agreement, which provided that he would supply me with the goods at fifteen percent discount on bread and twenty percent on cakes, settlements to be made every day, and I to assume all losses for bad accounts. So the horse, harness 42 IN REMINISCENCE and wagon became my property. I gave Peck a week's notice and started in a business of my own. The first thing I did was to have my name printed on the wagon as "dealer in wholesale bakery goods; hotels and restaurants supplied". Peters did not like that, so I added " Peter 's Vienna Bread, a specialty". Chapter II In a few weeks from the start I was doing enough business to put me firmly on my feet. I paid up the first note a week before it was due. That left four more notes of fifty dollars each, payable thirty days apart. About that time I secured the trade of Race Brothers' Restau- rant, through the influence of Mr. Peck who was a great friend of Eugene Race, the younger of the two brothers. Their trade was good for twelve to fifteen dollars a day. Then shortly after, Mr. Peck had me meet Mr. Lou Pease, Dining Car Superintendent for the Chicago, Mil- waukee and Saint Paul Railroad, which trade was good in bread and cake for three hundred and seventy-five to four hundred dollars per month, nearly half in cake. There is where I struck a snag. The railroads paid their bills, usually about the 15th to 20th of each month, for goods received the preceding month. My agreement with Peters provided that I must assume all liability for credit accounts and settle with the bakery every day. He agreed to carry me for one month for the CM. & St.P. account, but I must then turn the trade over to him to handle direct. Then I saw that what I had feared for some time was coming to a climax. Peters was really jealous over the success I was making and would like to have that trade for himself. I was working at the time on Mr. Bodge, superin- tendent of the Pennsylvania Railroad Dining Cars, and 44 IN REMINISCENCE through him had met William F. Boyd, Dinning Car Con- ductor on the " Limited' ' operating between Chicago and Fort Wayne. Mr. Boyd, or Billy as he was called by his associates, was from my home town — East Orange, New Jersey. He was a warm friend of my cousin, Bichard Coyne, one of the prominent men in that town. Boyd and I struck up a close friendship, so much so that I told him all about my success, and impending troubles. He offered to help me out if I needed a few hundred dollars, providing I could insure him against loss if anything should happen to me that would jeopar- dize his loan. I explained to him that I could turn over the CM. & St.P. account so as to protect him against loss in any event except the failure of the Bailroad. Boyd then asked me if I had any objection to taking Mr. Bodge into our confidence. I answered, "No in- deed"; so we sat down together, with the result that Boyd would give me his check for two hundred eighty-five dollars for my note for three hundred dollars, payable in sixty days, and I execute an assignment of the St. Paul account over to him. "Would that be satisfactory T" Was it satisfactory? I'll say it was. The next day following everything was fixed up, I paid up my daily account with Peters and took up one note on the horse and wagon account. I told him I would be in a position to get along all right in the future. I had noticed that Peters had a nephew who had recently come from Philadelphia, and I learned through one of the bakers that the nephew was expecting to get my route. The young man had talked too much. IN REMINISCENCE 45 I saw a pretty pickle coming between Mr. Peters and me so I got busy on a plan of my own. In the first place, I went to see Mr. Bremner of D. F. Bremner & Company with a letter from a mutual friend who knew all about my troubles. Bremner 's business was all in bread and crackers. He supplied a large num- ber of drivers handling his goods, mostly to stores; he had no wagon in the downtown trade. All of his drivers owned their rigs. I had been buying cakes from Kohl- saats and my credit was good there, up to $100.00. Mr. Bremner received me very graciously when I handed him my letter from Mr. McCoy of McCoy's Hotel. He told me that Mr. McCoy had talked with him over the phone and he would like to know all of the facts in my case. I placed the whole situation, clearly before him. He then asked what plan I had in mind for getting out of the difficulty. The plan I laid out was as follows: First I would need a horse, harness and wagon. I knew where I could secure a second-hand wagon and harness on a half cash payment, the balance on monthly notes. I had enough money to do that, and a little more. Then as Bremner & Company had quite a few horses and trucks I might hire a horse by the day for a few months to get started. For such daily payments for goods for the railroads I would render a voucher for each company and let him carrry the accounts and I would assign the monthly check to him. He then asked me if I had an arrangement with Kohlsaat for the cakes. I assured him that I had, with Mr. 46 IN REMINISCENCE Kohlsaat personally. Bremner made no cakes, only bread and crackers. The crackers were mostly for the shipping trade. Mr. Bremner called in his bookkeeper, James Don- Ian, a business partner, who afterwards became a good friend of mine. Donlan said there need be no difficulty in arranging a plan along the lines I suggested. After further conference Donlan suggested to Mr. Bremner that their truck horses were all too heavy for a delivery wagon, and thought I ought to have a lighter animal for that kind of work. On that we all agreed. Then Donlan asked me whether I could hold the trade if I got into a fight with Peters. I told him that I was sure I could hold more than half of it. That would mean at the worst I could depend on a profit to myself of about six dollars per day, allowing half of that for expenses he thought I could work out of the difficulty in a few months. Well we made a satisfactory agreement, all around ; Mr. Bremner asked Donlan to send for Pete Guthrie, to come to the office. Pete was there in a few minutes. He was in charge of the trucks and horses for the company. Mr. Bremner, after introducing me, said: "Pete, I want you to make an appointment with Mr. Coyne — at his convenience — and the two of you go over to Jack Ahern's Sale Stable and see if you can find a good horse for Mr. Coyne, and tell Ahern to send the bill to me. I judge a good horse can be had for around one hundred and fifty dollars. Would that suit you Mr. Coyne?" Did it suit me? I assured him it would. The next question was when and how would I make the shift ! IN REMINISCENCE 47 It was approaching the end of the month, and we all agreed that the first of the next month would be a good time for the start. So here was the plan : I would put in my order to the Peter's Bakery as usual. I would also place my order at the Bremner Bakery with instructions to have my new wagon loaded at three o'clock in the morning; the horse hitched up and a man ready to drive it down town to meet me at the Kohlsaat Bakery, as soon as he would receive word from me, over the phone, that I would meet him in Kohlsaat 's alley, on South Clark Street. I made all these arrangements believing that Peters might attach my horse and wagon. I preferred to have him steal them. Well the big day came! I placed my order as usual at the Peters' Bakery; also an order at the Bremner Bakery. My orders for cakes at Kohlsaat 's. I was up at two o'clock in the morning and went to the stable, fed my horse, locked the stable door and walked over (two blocks) to Peters' Bakery, just as if nothing was wrong except I was nearly an hour ahead of my usual time. The bakers looked aghast when I came in the shop. The foreman then informed me that Peters had given them instructions to turn my order over to the " other Fred", meaning his nephew. The bakers seemed to be sorry but I was smiling and bade them goodbye, assuring them that I was not disappointed and would land on my feet. I then hurried over Clark Street bridge to an all night drug store and called up the Bremner Bakery. The young man who was to bring down my load of bread and 48 IN REMINISCENCE rolls, answered the phone saying he was ready to start, and knew where to meet me. So that was 0. K. I was beginning to get a big kick out of it all and enjoyed it. So I was in a position to serve my trade. I was on my route at four o 'clock serving my all night customers without delay, even a little ahead of time, for the day trade. At about eight o'clock I ran into Peters and the " other Fred", where they were eating breakfast in one of the restaurants that I supplied. Before I entered the place I noticed my horse and wagon outside, with a lot of bakery goods in the wagon. That tickled me. I stopped at the table next to where they sat, to have some breakfast myself. After I had ordered, I leaned over to Peters and said: "I see you have my horse and wagon outside.' ' He looked at me as if surprised: "Why no," he said, "that is my horse and wagon, not yours any more." "Oh," said I, "I am going over to swear out a war- rant for you after a while, charging you with breaking and entering, for horse stealing and larceny — you had better get your lawyer to look after your bond because you may find the sheriff looking for you when you get back to the bakery. ' ' I then asked the nephew if he was aware of the fact when he broke the lock on my barn door, that I had a bill of sale for the horse and wagon. He said he did not know that. He thought the outfit belonged to his uncle. His uncle then told him to ' ' shut up ". I could see they were both feeling pretty uncomfortable so I told Peters I would be in to see him about noon to talk things over and IN REMINISCENCE 49 would not swear out the warrant, until after our con- sultation. Well we met at noon. Mr. Fred Hayes, Peters' attorney, was there — a man of splendid character with whom I was well acquainted. I had a friend with me, not a lawyer. Mr. Hayes took the position of a sort of a judge, asking each of us what had occurred and what we wanted to do towards arriving at a settlement, that would be fair to both sides, and keep us out of court. I passed, asking that Peters state his case first. He did, saying he was sorry we had gotten into such a mess, and that all he wanted was the trade that I had built up on his goods, turned over to him and I work on a regular salary; the horse and wagon to be turned back to him, and he would return to me my unpaid notes — not yet due — and he would call square what I owed him for goods which amounted to about seventy-five dollars. Hayes then asked me what I thought of the propo- sition. I told him that it was fair enough for Mr. Peters, but not for me. I then said all of it except the working on a salary would be acceptable, and suggested that he give the job to his nephew, and he and I would fight it out for the trade. At the same time I added that I would not swear out the warrant if he would agree not to run over my route for one month. Finally, through the spirit of fair play — I believe — on the part of Mr. Hayes my terms were accepted, after Peters and Hayes had stepped into another room for a few minutes. 50 IN REMINISCENCE So I was then again on my own, and started out anew with Bremner's bread and Kohlsaat's cakes, old Peters and his nephew bucking me after I had a week's start, but not calling on my trade. They did not get one-fourth of my business, and gave up after a month or two. I finally built up a trade on Bremner's goods that required a two horse wagon, and a single wagon with a boy to help me. In a short time I had nearly all the dining car trade running out of Chicago. I was clear out of debt, owned three horses, two wagons, and a few hundred dollars in the bank, within twelve months of the time I started in with Bremner. I then began to believe it was time for me to be looking for a wife. Working as I was, from two-thirty in the morning until six or seven at night, left me very little time for social functioning. However, I did meet the "lady of my choice' ' and after a short courtship we became engaged one afternoon, after a matinee performance of "The Mikado" on New Year's day 1886. We were married the eleventh of May following. The lady was Pauline Neihaus, referred to in a former chapter of this work, as the little girl who nar- rowly escaped from the flames while I was selling papers down east telling "All about the Chicago fire". After a few months, Mrs. Coyne thought she would like to help in my growing up progress and suggested that she could operate a store for the sale of bakery goods, which would give me another customer on the IN REMINISCENCE 51 route and give her something to do during the day. We talked that over for a time and then a chance came right to me all of a sudden. I had a grocery customer on North State Street, who had put up a new building, adjoining the store he was then occupying on a five year lease. His building was about completed and he was looking for someone to take the lease off his hands. He told me that a lunch-room, with bakery goods, ought to do well there. He knew the neighborhood well and had a good grocery trade. I looked it over, and had my wife come down and see what she thought about it. Mrs. Coyne was very much in favor of the project. So I took over the lease, fitted up the store for dis- play of goods, equipped a small kitchen in the rear, put in six nice tables with Vienna chairs, and started a bakery lunch room, with a cake griddle and colored cook in the front window. Our menu contained only diary dishes, bakery goods and eggs, in any style, also dripped coffee, sandwiches, and griddle cakes made in the window. The North State lunch-room and store boomed from the first day we opened ! There were a great many people living in fur- nished rooms in that district which made business good for restaurants. There were also a lot of people living in small apartments which made business for the store. I did so well on the North Side that in 1887 I bought the old Dennet Eestaurant on Madison near La Salle, opposite what is now the Hotel La Salle. The Dennet had been in operation for about two 52 IN REMINISCENCE years, and attracted a lot of attention because of the Biblical quotations framed and hung on the walls. In general appearance they did not differ much from the cards announcing their special dishes, with prices, etc. There was advice for spiritual and physical welfare in plenty. After I had re-opened the place I was asked many times what had become of the signs. Some would mis- quote them for fun, in such ways as follows: "A fool and his money soon part", "Corn beef hash, ten cents" and so on. When I opened up the Madison Street place, I felt that I was now on the way to the point of becoming an "Economic Royalist", but not by way of the "Molasses route". Chapter III Shortly after we opened the North State Street lunch-room, I became acquainted with one of our regular morning customers, Miss Virginia Penny — a spinster about sixty years of age, gray and rather undersized, not very well dressed ; but very bright and evidently of good birth and training. I afterwards learned that she came from a high standing Virginia family. One day Miss Penny showed me a clipping from the Chicago Inter-Ocean, then published by Wm. Penn Nixon. The article referred to Miss Penny in a very com- plimentary way for her work in behalf of self-supporting women, stating that: "She had spent a long life (since early womanhood) and two fortunes that had been left to her, in advancing opportunity for women to earn their living in the business world." At the time of which I write, she was having a hard time getting along on small remittances, received on rare occasions, for articles she was sending to different papers and magazines. It must be remembered that at that time her work was not so enthusiastically approved of by a great number of men and women. Many people thought it was wrong for young women to be "thrown into the company of men" in such positions as clerks and sten- ographers, mixed up in the same room with the male sex. It would not only be bad for the girls, but would have the effect of women taking the places of the men, 54 IN REMINISCENCE and the latter would be walking the streets looking for work. That was the tone of many of the criticisms aimed at her good work. Miss Penny complained bitterly of the lack of sup- port, or encouragement received from women's organi- zations of that time. She finally admitted that at times she had not suf- ficient income to pay for her meals, which was no surprise to me for we noticed from the size of her lunch checks that she must be getting along on very little. Well, one day I stopped in at the Inter-Ocean office, and had a little talk with Mr. Nixon, than whom there were few men in Chicago more interested in public af- fairs, and possessed of higher humane instincts. He confirmed all that Miss Penny had told me, but added that she was proud and did not wish to be an object of charity. Miss Penny had, on several occasions, asked us to hold up a check for a few days — which she always paid within a short time. So one day I had a talk with her, and told her about my visit with Mr. Nixon and made a suggestion to her which she gratefully accepted. It was to this effect : That whenever she needed such accommodation she would give her check to the cashier of either our North State Street lunch-room or the down town place on Madison Street, and feel free to do so. I would hold her checks and when and if she felt able to pay them or part of them, she could do whatever she wished towards their liquidation. I wanted her to feel IN REMINISCENCE 55 that she was not an object of charity. The poor soul ac- cepted the proposition, and said she would not forget my kindness, nor the fact that it was a business accommo- dation and would repay if and when it would be possible for her to do so. She did from time to time pay off some of her "obligations", as she called them. She was a quaint little woman, full of courage. She had no scientific facts based on research, but as she her- self said, she just got her information by "gadding around" factories and business houses and jotting down figures. She always carried a sort of reticule stuffed with notes she had made and newspaper clippings. What- ever became of her, I do not now recall but think she went back to her old State of Virginia. She was paid up when she left. I have learned since that Miss Penny wrote a book in 1850, but I have not been able to find a copy. I did however dig up some favorable references to her work in public library records. In my research efforts regarding her work for women, I note that the first woman doctor was Elizabeth Blackwell in 1849 ; the first woman minister was ordained in 1853; and the first "Portia" admitted to the bar was Annabella Mansfield in 1869 — a friend of Miss Penny! Chapter IV I had just built up a business that was on a paying basis in the North State Street lunch-room, (much of which came in the morning) from people on their way to town over the State Street bridge, when I got my first bad break, a break in more ways than one. A large boat passing through the draw one morning, bumped into the bridge and broke the turning gear which put the bridge out of commission. After some delay and investigation, the city engineers recommended a new bridge at State Street and the removal of the old one to Dearborn Street, which had no bridge. The prospects of those changes looked like ruin to me. A bridge at Dearborn would of course divert travel to that street, and leave State Street closed until a new bridge could be installed. With no bridge at State Street, I was in a blind alley, so to speak. I had gone in debt for some of my furniture, and fixtures, and things did not look so good. However, I went to my creditors and explained things with the result that I got extensions of my notes and was told to go right along and not worry. After a time, I discovered that quite a few of our customers were going a block or two out of their way to get their breakfast at our place. Then, I soon saw that I was getting some new trade at noon from business men on Michigan Street, who had been in the habit of going across State Street bridge to get their lunch over town. It was not very long before our trade began to increase. IN REMINISCENCE 57 After the new bridge at State Street was in opera- tion, the business increased to a point that compelled me to enlarge the store by moving the kitchen upstairs; at the same time putting in a dumb-waiter. The increased business enabled me to discount my notes before they were due. The fact that I was so much concerned in the State Street bridge, brings to my mind some interesting facts connected with moving the old one to Dearborn Street. When the city authorities advertised for bids for the contract to move the bridge to a new center pier at its new location, under specifications prescribed by the city engineers, there were a number of proposals offered that varied considerably as to bid price and time limit, which was considered of importance in the specifications. One of the bidders, a young engineer, not very prominent in the profession, submitted a bid of a very low price compared to the others with a time limit so short that the commissioners considered it impossible of fulfillment, and wanted to know how he intended to go about it. At this time, the young man saw that he needed a lawyer, and retained one who went before the commis- sion and informed them that his client was not obliged to tell them how he was going to proceed to carry out his part of the contract. So long as his proposal complied with the specifications and his bondsmen were satisfied to back him up, and were responsible for their bond, he should be awarded the contract. There was enough publicity leaked out to arouse public curiosity. Well he was given the contract, and proceeded to business without delay. He had it figured out to a nicety. 58 IN REMINISCENCE He had engaged two large barges and sufficient lumber to be used for stanchions and upper works for the bridge to ride on. He had made careful estimates as to how much lift- ing power would be required to lift the structure off the turntable intact. He figured out how much water should be let into each barge to sink it low enough to get its upper works under the bridge in its required place, so as to produce the upward pressure as the water was pumped out of the barges. The bridge was in open position and free from all connection with the turntable on which it rested. The center pier at Dearborn Street was completed with the turntable and connections in place, ready to receive the new arrival. (All of this part of the work had been performed by the city.) When it was reported about, that the work was to start, there were many curious spectators gathered to see the show. Shortly after daybreak a tug boat brought up the barges with their upper works in place, pumps and en- gines ready, with all kinds of wire cable and hawsers needed to do the job. After the barges were along side, the pumps were started up, there were enough of them to fill the barge quickly, as they were partly filled when they arrived. The barges filled up, then after careful measurements they were poked into their places under the bridge, the pumps were started again, this time pumping the water out. In the mean time the men, in their places, stood IN REMINISCENCE 59 ready by means of hawsers, cables and turn buckles to see that the bridge was lifted in the right position on the upper works, so as to be dropped in its new berth at Dearborn Street. When the barges came up slowly as the water was pumped out it was interesting to see how nice everything worked out. Then, as the structure got in the clear and the barges were swung out under the influence of the tug boats, there was a cheer went up that must have given a thrill to the contractor, who stood up there on the bridge or walked about. He looked like the captain of a big liner being warped into her dock in New York City. It took but a short time to move the bridge to Dear- born Street, swing her into the right position, pump the water into the barges and let her down to where she belonged. Then there was a louder hurrah for the man who proved that he knew what he was doing. He made (I was told) a nice profit on the job and established a reputation that must have been an advantage to him later in his profession. Chapter V After our first baby came, there were other things to talk about besides our business. A home was the first natural thought. We at first contemplated a home on the North Side, and here again I am reminded of some of the great changes in the growth of Chicago. A new subdivision was building up at the time in Edgewater, a small town, not so well known, but attract- ing considerable attention because of the character of houses that were being erected and the rural sur- roundings. The transportation was over the Chicago and North Western Railroad. We had almost made up our minds to buy one of those houses as the price was reasonable and the terms easy. At that time Lake Michigan was not as popular as it is today. The general public held it as not a fit place to bathe in and unsafe for sailing. Very few people aside from the fishermen ventured out in boats. When we informed some of our friends of our thought of locating on the North Side, we were told that it would be bad for the baby, on account of the cold damp air, anywhere near the lake; so we changed our minds, concluded to move to the West Side to get "away from the lake ' \ We bought a house on Warren Avenue, which was then considered, next to Washington Boulevard, the finest residence street on the far West Side, Ashland Boulevard excepted. IN REMINISCENCE 61 In the early history of Chicago, the West Side was considered as the most popular for residential purpose. On the South Side, Wabash Avenue had the first start, then exclusive Prairie Avenue and Michigan Boulevard came to the front. The one great menace to the future of the South Side was the Union Stock Yards and its environment of rendering establishments and bone dust factories. With a keen recollection of the odors that were wafted on the south and southwest winds, from the stock yards, I am reminded of the lines, attributed to the pen of that famous writer Fanny Hurst as applied to a certain district in New York City. As I remember the lines went something like this : "In the Ghetto District the children's noses Are not hampered by the smell of roses.' ' The same lines would apply to the Ghetto District in Chicago at the time I first saw it. It was then like a foreign country. Over on the West Side in the vicinity of Maxwell and Halstead Streets, there was a district that seemed to be given over to Russian Jews, for market purposes. In the old "horse and buggy days", I was driving one morning and before I realized where I was I found myself right in the "Ghetto". I never was more sur- prised in my life. I had heard something about it in my talks with Jane Addams who knew all about that section of Chicago. I believe very few people, even among those who lived within a mile or two of the place, knew any- thing about the Ghetto until they actually saw it. It was hard for one to believe that such scenes could be wit- 62 IN REMINISCENCE nessed outside of some city in Russia, as illustrated in a Stodard lecture on foreign countries. Old men, bearded almost to their waists, dressed in long black coats, offering all sorts of food stuffs, among other things live fish — none of their customers would think of buying fish if they were not alive. Dried mush- rooms, hung on strings. Women were surrounded by numerous children, tripping underfoot. The stands were on the sidewalks and curb stones. Everything offered was cheap, cheap, cheap ! The time of which I am writing was about 1888, and I have been lately informed that the district has grown to two or three times its size, as of that date. Along about 1896 the North Side began to grow farther to the north towards Rogers Park, and Edge- water. The first big boom commenced after the Edgewater Beach Hotel was in its promotion stage. The North Side elevated railroad had extended its terminal to Wilson Avenue. Then started the exodus from the West Side, lead by the H. I society, many of whom, as I remember, were financially interested in the great development that virtually built up a new Chicago in that section. Real estate values went skyrocketing at a rate that was astonishing. Land values doubled and doubled again, while people were looking on waiting to buy. The Edgewater Beach Hotel added to its grounds and buildings at a rate that made it superior in appoint- ments and popularity to anything of the kind ever known in Chicago. IN REMINISCENCE 63 Bathing beaches were established all along the lake shore. The lake that a few years before was considered too cold to bathe in and too treacherous to sail on, became all of a sudden as attractive as the swan in its transfor- mation from the "Ugly Duckling". Along about this time, Chicago had increased its population, largely by annexation of small towns on the South, North and West Sides, such as Lake View, Austin, Town of Lake, Pullman, South Chicago and other adja- cent towns. So now to secure more new territory the city began to take steps to annex Lake Michigan, or rather some of the ground from beneath her surface. Property owners on the North Side owning land running back into the lake and the city authorities and park commissioners went at the work ruthlessly and vigorously with great dredges and sand suckers piling up land along the lake front for miles, establishing the outer drive and reclaiming what came to be the highest priced residential property ever known in the city of Chicago. Naturally, this made land come into the hands of men of large means who built beautiful homes until today it is known as the "Gold Coast". As evidence of the great change in regard to the lake as a bathing resort, one needs but to look at the bathing beaches, public and private, all along the beach from Edgewater to South Chicago, the most popular of these is the Municipal Pavilion, at the foot of Oak Street. I have heard it estimated that more than one hun- dred thousand people patronize these beaches in a day when weather permits. 64 IN REMINISCENCE When you drive along, passing Lincoln Park on the outer drive, and the bathing beaches, it is hard to realize that this is the same old lake shore that was the last resting place for a few dead fish and an occasional car- cass of a defunct cat, as was the case when I first saw it, scarcely more than a decade before. No relation of facts concerning the growth of Chi- cago would be complete without something about Captain Streeter of " Streeterville ' \ Under International Law, there are three ways of acquiring title to land : First, by right of discovery ; the others by rights of conquest and purchase. Captain Streeter who owned a schooner or lumber lugger, operating on Lake Michigan, ran aground on a sand reef off Lincoln Park, during a high sea and was unable to move his vessel off, even after the sea went down, as the sand had washed up to such an extent as to form an Island of his boat's resting place. Streeter continued to live in the boat, and the sand kept washing up until he was able to stake out lots and form a settlement. In the meantime he filed papers in Washington for title to "Island of Lake Michigan' ' by the ' ' right of discovery " ! He then formed a government and elected himself President, with the aid of his wife and several other adventurous souls who had joined him. He organized an army and navy and fortified the old hulk and shacks against all foreign invasion. His enemies by this time were owners of land on shore facing the "Island of Lake Michigan" — and the Chicago police. For several years the picturesque, tall figure of the IN REMINISCENCE 65 old captain with his red hair and whiskers was one of the attractions of sightseers. The land owners on shore claiming riparian rights, tried through the city government, the State of Illinois and the federal government to attack the old man's claims, but by this time he had backing him, quite a few people who had bought land on the "Island", and had money to fight with. I cannot recall now just what the outcome was, but evidently the old captain had to abdicate for the inter- vening space between the "Island" and the mainland was filled in and is now occupied by a large apartment building called the "Breakers" and another building called the "Bachelors" apartment. The two buildings are often facetiously referred to as the "Breakers" and the "Homebreakers". I believe that all of this land is now a part of the "Gold Coast" of Chicago. A short time ago I saw a dispatch in a San Antonio paper, stating that one of the heirs of the Streeter Estate was going to Chicago to establish claim to part ownership of Streeterville and the "Island of Lake Michigan" which "now has a value of over three hundred million dollars". I expect that the lawyers will have another feast on this bone of contention. One of the old time figures of Chicago was Justice McCarty whose office was on the corner of the river front and Clark Street, up a flight of stairs above the bridge approach. As I have been told by lawyers who knew him, he regarded his office as of great importance — he was in fact a ' ' Justice of the Peace ' \ 66 IN REMINISCENCE He would try any kind of a case that was brought before him and it was said that what he lacked in knowl- edge of law, was made up for in the dignity and respect with which he regarded his office and its powers. I have heard many stories about Justice McCarty (as he insisted on being called), but believe the best one of all was the one which would have done credit to King Solomon of old. It seems that two vessels about to pass each other in the river nearby came into collision head on. After an exchange of seafaring expletives, concern- ing the liability for damages, the two owners rushed up the stairs to the temple of justice, wherein Justice McCarty presided. It made no difference to his honor that the case was one for a Maritime Court, so he heard the evidence of both parties to the case which established the facts that the boats met head on — and that both boats suffered about equally in damages. The Judge in rendering his decision said : ' ' This is the heaviest case that ever came up these stairs.' ' Then, after a moment's pause, he said, "The Court holds that the vessel that struck the other first is responsible for the damage to both, and the costs of the Court will be equally divided between the two owners." The two owners paid the costs, and must have left with feelings somewhat like the two cats that took the cheese to the monkey to divide. Charles Kramer, a noted Maritime lawyer whom I knew very well, is responsible for the above, as he told me the story. Chapter VI There is one outstanding recollection I have of the first administration of President Grover Cleveland. In the Summer of 1884 Chicago, like the proverbial burnt child, had another fire scare, that for a time caused much uneasiness. Eugene V. Debs, editor of "The Locomotive Fire- man", leader of the socialistic elements in the Union Labor world, had organized a strike against the Pullman Company, which spread to the railway firemen, with all of the destructive features that characterized a labor union strike in those days. The Pullman shops were fired, railroad property de- stroyed, and threats were made that the strike would be- come general in all labor unions at the stock yards and down town Chicago. The strikers showed very little respect for the State Militia — at that time not a part of the National Guard. The police would be of small avail in keeping order if the riots broke out in the city. The city was threatened, and the old ' ' Spirit of Chi- cago" was awakened. There was a strong force of federal troops out at Fort Sheridan, that could be moved to Chicago in short order, so a committee of citizens called on President Cleveland requesting that he order out the troops for the protection of the city. On the other hand, a protest was made against the proposed order by labor representatives, backed up by 68 IN REMINISCENCE the Governor of the State of Illinois. Also by a number of "pink parlor socialists' ' who were opposed to action by the President, unless the request came from the Governor. I am not sure whether it was on this occasion or in a similar situation that Grover Cleveland expressed his mind in the words — "It is a condition, not a theory, that confronts us" — at all events, he issued the order and the federal troops were ordered to Chicago. There was one small incident connected with the arrival of the federal troops at the Union Depot that recalls Victor Hugo's line in his story of the Battle of Waterloo: "There are no small things in nature and no small facts in history". When the federal troops lined up on Canal Street and proceeded towards Madison, the mob filled the side- walks, but there was very little demonstration until a strike sympathizer yelled out in derision a remark that could not be ignored ! One of the soldiers raised his rifle and without any word of command sent a Krag Jourgen- son message over the head of the fellow who shouted the remark so quickly that it seemed to bystanders that the soldier was acting under orders. As soon as the mob realized that the troops could not be fooled with, there were no more demonstrations of any kind against them as they proceeded down town to the Federal building, where tents were erected and camps established in the most business like manner. After that shot was fired on Canal Street it was dis- covered by reporters that the "Krag" bullet had crashed through a saloon window about seven feet above the IN REMINISCENCE 69 ground, passed through an ice box, crossed the alley, through a livery stable and was dug out of a concrete wall on the other side of the stable. There is no doubt but what the moral effect of that one bullet had much to do with the cooling down of the mob spirit, and aroused a great respect for the fed- eral troops. That action on the part of Grover Cleveland, order- ing out the federal troops, at a time when the City of Chicago was in real danger showed that he was the right man of the hour. A settlement of the strike difficulties was soon arrived at. Away back in the eighties one of the unusual sights of Chicago were the Hannah & Hogg Saloons, there were five or six of them, located in different parts of the city, well known for their special brands of imported ales and Scotch whiskey. They were well kept and conducted in an orderly manner, patronized largely by Scotchmen and lovers of their special brands. There were three of these places down town, one on the West Side and one on the South Side that I re- member. In front of each saloon, on the sidewalk, was a statue of Bobby Burns, carved out of stone, each one showing by its pose on a pedestal, a suggestion of the Scotch poet and a line or two from one of his poems. These statues attracted a great deal of attention; they were works of art and must have cost a pretty penny, but they were good advertising matter. One morning early passers were surprised to see the statues toppled off their pedestals and badly broken. 70 IN REMINISCENCE All had been treated alike. Police investigation and reports of patrolmen seemed to indicate that the perpe- trators had selected the best time in the night to fit the different locations, so no one could be found who saw any of the work, as it was being done. The subject was the talk of the town for several days, as the remains were allowed to rest where they fell ; consequently each place was over run with business, some of the places requiring extra bar tenders to serve the curious and thirsty patrons. There were suspicions in the minds of some that the owners knew more than they wanted to tell, when it was seen how the business picked up after the catastrophe. At all events Bobby Burns did much — long after his passing — to boost Scotch whiskey, a liquor of which, ac- cording to tradition, he was extremely fond. Chapter VII My memoirs would not be complete without a chap- ter on Base Ball and Captain Anson. As I stated in an early page, the Chicago Club park was on the lake front near Randolph Street. The club was then known as the Chicago White Stockings, which name they carried with them to the West Side and until they became better known as An- son's Colts. Along about 1892 the players in all of the big league started up a strike which ended in the organization of the "Base Ball Brotherhood", which was the start of the American League, for a while the Federal League. It was then that "Anson's Cubs" were born, and the name White Stocking was abandoned — and picked up by Charley Comiskey for the new Chicago Club of the American League, which then became the "White Sox". The Cub grounds on the West Side, became the rendezvous of the old fans — Section A was where they all gathered. That was the "Smokers' Section" in the Grand Stand — no smoking was allowed in any other sec- tion. Every good fan had his favorite seat, and knew every other fan present. Kenesaw Landis was always present and was the most enthusiastic of all. As I remember he never lost his interest in the game, even after he went on the bench. While I would not go so far as to say that he ever adjourned court to attend a game, I would not be sur- prised if his clerk did whatever he could to see that the 72 IN REMINISCENCE court calendar did not interfere with the scheduled games of the Cubs. In passing, I believe nothing in Base Ball history was so appropriate as his appointment as commissioner when such a man was needed. His reputation on the bench, his love of the game and interest in the players, made him the ideal man for the place. Base Ball and Judge Landis are today one and inseparable. I cannot drop this subject without relating a circumstance that came up in his court when I was a character witness for a West Side doctor, who shall be known as Doctor Jones, because that was not his name. Doctor Jones was being tried for using the U. S. Mails in communicating with a young woman living in a suburban town desiring an illegal operation. The evi- dence showed in effect that he had answered a decoy letter written by one of Anthony Comstock's agents. Doc- tor Jones ' attorney had his client plead guilty and throw himself on the mercy of the court — presenting character witnesses in his behalf, among whom I was one, I having known the Doctor for several years as a good citizen, living in my neighborhood. When I was on the witness stand the Doctor's at- torney, (who was rather a goat of a lawyer), asked me if I was the former Postmaster of Chicago? I said yes, then he asked me how long I had known the defendant, how well I knew him, and if I had not always "met him in good company". The Judge cut in rather impatiently and said, "If your client met Mr. Coyne at all, it goes without saying that it was in good company". I bowed and thanked the Judge and that ended my examination. IN REMINISCENCE 73 I might close in saying that the Judge had to impose the sentence of two years imprisonment under the law. One of the outstanding players on the Colts was Jimmy Ryan. He was the cause of more kids getting in free during the game than any other player. When Ryan walked up to the batter 's box the youngsters on the outside were all on the alert for fouls over the grand stand, or outside the third base fence. Jimmy would stroke that straw colored mustache (of bar tender type) and then land every ball that came near him for four or five fouls, and there would be a scramble outside, for whoever got the ball was admitted to the grounds. The fans sitting upon the high seats saw as much fun in this way as they sometimes did in the game inside. Ryan joined the Brotherhood, and one day while I was out on the South Side to see a game, (the park was five or six miles from the West Side Park) as Ryan stepped to the plate some enthusiastic fan yelled out, " Knock it over to Throop Street, Jimmy !" — he thought he was back on the West Side. It caused many heartaches in the breasts of the fans when Fred Pfeffer quit and went with the Brotherhood team. In this connection, in spite of other stories of the players to the contrary, the " stone wall infield" did not start with " Tinker to Evers to Chance", but did origi- nate with " Burns (sometimes Williamson) to Pfeffer to Anson", long before Chance succeeded Anson as Captain and first baseman. Fred Pfeffer was up to his time, the best second baseman that played that position. No hot bounder that came anywhere within his territory escaped. He would 74 IN REMINISCENCE get it either right handed or left, he would get it to Burns on the second sack by a throw or a scoop that never missed ; and it worked the same way if the ball came from the bat to Burns, on short, who had the same tricks for blocking, throwing and scoop that made the stone wall infield, for when the ball came to Anson, it never got by, for he was tall, quick and had a long reach. When Captain Anson was first called "Old Anse", among his players, when they were known as Anson's Colts, he did not object — rather considered it a mark of esteem! But when the management began to ask them- selves as to whether he was getting too old to play first base, he got grouchy at the suggestion that he should retire to the bench on account of his age. He had a birthday coming along about that time, and he would play a joke on the manager and give some fun for the fans. Very few knew what was coming off until they got out to the park that day. As the players took their positions, Anson came walking out from the dugout in a regular Santa Claus rig and wiskers — walking out to first base as if nothing was going on out of the usual routine. When he got to his position, facing the infield he stroked his whiskers, pulled his back hair up under his cap, until he looked for all the world like one of the Holy Rollers from St. Joe Michigan ; indeed, some of the fans thought it was one. There is another story of a game at which I was not present, where the joke was on Anson. At a game in the old West Side Park the Colts in warming up were at their batting practice. Anson came up first and swung at the first ball pitched which came over the plate at high IN REMINISCENCE 75 speed. Anson landed on it and must have hit it full in the nose, for there arose a cloud of dust that looked like smoke. He looked at his bat, and then made for the pitcher who skipped to the dug out before Anson could reach him. By that time Anson saw the joke that had been played on him. The ball was phoney, made of plaster of paris for that very occasion. The fans roared when they realized what happened. I do not now remember which of his men threw the ball, nor who had it made, but it was a good joke. Chapter VIII The first club that I joined in Chicago was the Sunset Club that used to meet in the Grand Pacific Hotel for six o'clock dinner every other Thursday, at which questions of public interest — national and local — were discussed by invited notables to speak on the question up for debate ; both sides to be represented, after which the meeting was open to the members of the club for a limited time, as they were recognized by the toastmaster. The toastmaster was selected and introduced by the secretary, Mr. Charles W. Errant. The club had no officers, no board of directors, no dues, nor by-laws. Each member was notified about a week ahead of the subject to be discussed and the chosen speaker for each side. If the member desired to attend, he filled in the reservation card, and a place was reserved for which he paid two dollars; the proceeds went for the dinner and cost of printing and postage. There were many good features about the Sunset Club. To begin with the dinner was in keeping with the reputation of the Grand Pacific Hotel which under the management of John B. Drake had become famous for its service and cuisine. The membership of the club was made up of repre- sentative men from all walks of life: lawyers, business men, doctors, mechanics, labor leaders, socialists, ' ' single IN REMINISCENCE 77 taxers", political leaders, Democrats, Republicans and Prohibitionists. I cannot recall many of the subjects that were dis- cussed, nor would limited space permit me to put them in print if I could. The two most outstanding subjects that I remember were : i i Should the World 's Fair ( Columbian Exposition) be open on Sunday V and "What shall we do to uplift the masses?" On the question of the World's Fair being open on Sunday the speaker for the affirmative side made the statement, that it was much better for the masses to be permitted to roam through the fair grounds and build- ings, viewing the exhibits of the arts and sciences, than to be left no other place of amusements except the theatres and saloons. The Reverend Charles Martyn of New York who spoke in favor of Sunday closing, took exceptions to the presumption that the only alternative to attending the fair on Sunday was to pass the day in theatres and saloons. He then added that so far as the arts and sciences were concerned it should be remembered "that in ancient times when art and literature were at their highest, morals were at their lowest". This brought a storm of hisses and words of protest from many of those present. Doctor Martyn paused for a moment and then he said that he was very much surprised at the manner in which his remarks had been received. He said he had been assured that he would be al- lowed free rein to express his opinion on the subject but 78 IN REMINISCENCE he now thought he must have misunderstood the secre- tary. He then said he was reminded of a story he had heard, about a man who had bought a horse from a dealer, with assurance that the horse was sound and free from bad habits. The new owner mounted the horse to ride him home. He had hardly got in the saddle when the horse having the * ' string halt ' ' raised a hind foot and kicked the stirrup away from the rider's foot, whereupon the rider looked down and called out to the horse: "If you are trying to get up here, I am going to get off ! ' ' The story was good, there was a thunder of applause and advice to go on from the audience, and the good Doctor repeated what he had said and resumed his argu- ment without further interruption. The other episode came in the discussion, "What shall we do to uplift the masses 1" George Schnieder was a member of the club and an avowed socialist, so also was Tommy Morgan. The former was of the milder type of the Cowdry kind; but Morgan was more militant and fiery in his speech, which at times was almost anarchistic in character. Cowdry, by the way, was afterwards the candidate for President on the Socialist Party ticket. During the debate on the question of "Uplifting the Masses", Morgan, in the course of his remarks, ex- pressed the opinion that if "something is not done soon, the masses might do some uplifting themselves, by the aid of ropes and scaffold accessories, that would lead to much unhappiness to many of us". Perhaps what makes this thought so fresh in mind IN REMINISCENCE 79 is the fact that even in those times the "pink parlor" socialist was in evidence and always ready to appland such remarks as a manifestation of sophistry and "fear- less thinking" . In a former chapter of these memoirs, the story of the "Haymarket Riot" gives room for thought as to what can result from intemperate speech backed by en- couragement of Utopian dreamers. While the thought of socialism is before me I cannot refrain from bringing in a story of an event that gave the people of Chicago as bad a case of jitters as ever afflicted a small town population over the fear of a small pox epidemic. One morning, I am not positive, but believe it was in the year 1889, that as I started out early, I noticed a small red paper flag, pasted on the curb stone facing the middle of the street. It was blood red, pennant shaped, about two feet long and about eight inches wide. As I walked along the block I saw another, and an- other and soon saw that they were pasted on the curb stones of every block through the down town sections of the city — north, south and west. They had evidently been pasted secretly during the night, and nobody seemed to have any knowledge as to who put them out, or what it was all about, but the general opinion was that it was the red flag of anarchy. Even the newspapers were unable to throw any light on the subject, and everybody was talking about it. After the first excitement was over, a few nights later, another lot was pasted over what was left of the first, and on these in large black letters the word 80 IN REMINISCENCE " Bread''. This of course gave a lot of people more jitters. Surely there was a sinister plan on foot to wreak vengeance on the City of Chicago for the execution of the anarchists after the Haymarket riot. Was it a war cry? Bread or Blood! Then came a new set of flags. In this new set were the words "Aereated Bread". Then it all came out. It was a well conceived plan of H. H. Kohlsaat to advertise a renewal of the manu- facture of Aereated Bread — a bread made without yeast or fermentation, or leaven of any sort ! The bread was made light by the aid of carbonic acid gas, and had a very delicious taste, but its popularity is not lasting. It takes an elaborate set of machinery to make the bread, including the apparatus for creating carbonic acid gas. It was a singular coincidence that the making of gas for bread should be associated with a scare of anarchy. Chapter IX In 1887 I accepted an offer of $3,500.00 for the North Side place and invested a part of it as a first payment on the home on Warren Avenue, often referred to then as the Prairie Avenue of the West Side. Being a Kepublican and a firm believer in protection of the American wage earner, I soon got on a friendly footing with William E. Mason, then just out of Congress; a friendship that lasted as long as he lived. In 1890 I was taking a course in Parliamentary Law, in the Chicago Athenaeum. Mr. Mason was my class teacher. Living in the same neighborhood we rode home together quite often. In our talks about Congress, Mason told me of an incident connected with the preparation of the famous "McKinley Protective Tariff Bill". This incident showed the character of some of the men we had in Congress. When the bill was framed and ready to be reported out, the Republican members of the committee held an informal discussion, during which the question arose as to what effect its adoption would have on the voters at the next election for Congress. Some members present expressed the opinion that they would lose their seats in the next house because of the opposition, thinking that the Cleveland " Tariff for Revenue" war cry would fool a lot of voters into voting against the " Robber Tariff and McKinleyism" — the slogan that the Democrats had adopted. I remember quite well Mason's description of Major 82 IN REMINISCENCE McKinley's attitude on that subject. He said the Major stood up and addressed his colleagues as follows: ' ' Gentlemen ! I believe the adoption of this bill will de- feat me for re-election, and perhaps defeat our national ticket. But is that to be considered if we believe we are reporting out a bill that will be for the benefit of our whole country! If we are right, it is our duty to pass this regardless of our personal interest, or our party's suc- cess.' ' I had read and heard a great deal on the subject of protection. I believed strongly that it was the only policy for our country's interest, which belief naturally attracted me to McKinley. I finally met him in a round- about way. On the night of the Cleveland-Harrison election, 1892, 1 was with a crowd of club fellows receiving the re- turns by telegraph in the rooms of the Menoken Club, a non-partisan organization, with a membership largely Eepublican. As the returns came in, it could be soon seen that the country was going strong for Cleveland. That campaign had developed a faction in the Eepublican party known as "Mugwumps" — Kepublicans deserting their party in opposition to "McKinleyism". A lot of my friends began to jibe me, good naturedly enough and when the final returns showed that Cleveland was elected the crowd began to call " Coyne, Coyne. Speech! Speech ! " I arose, addressed the gathering as nearly as I can remember as follows : "Have a good time, fellows ; you Democrats have good reason to rejoice over your party's victory, but it pains me to see so many of you Eepublicans joining in. You can have your fun tonight. IN REMINISCENCE 83 Four years from now I will have mine when I see you Mugwumps falling over yourselves voting for William McKinley for President/ ' Many of my friends gathered around after the crowd had dispersed and expressed themselves as believing as I did; that the reaction would come after the " sober second thought" and the people would find out their mistake and logically turn back to McKinley. As it happened, among those who agreed with me was Earnest W. Kohlsaat, a brother of H. H. Kohlsaat, then publisher of the Chicago Inter-Ocean, and a warm personal friend of McKinley and an ardent believer in his policy of protection. Shortly after the occurence I have referred to, Mr. Kohlsaat called me to the telephone and informed me that his brother had told him about my remarks at the Meno- ken Club gathering. He also told me that it was a re- markable fact that similar scenes had been reported to him from all over the country. He then asked me if I could come over to his office to have a talk with him. I did so, and after an exchange of views he asked me: " Coyne, how would you like to meet the Major ?" I told him that was like asking a small boy how he would like to meet Santa Claus! Then Mr. Kohlsaat informed me he expected Major McKinley would be in Chicago in the near future and he would try to arrange a meeting. Some weeks from that time, one afternoon I was in my bakery looking after the installation of some new machinery when my bookkeeper came to inform me that Mr. Kohlsaat was very anxious to speak to me over the 84 IN REMINISCENCE phone. I had an inkling of what he wanted, as I had read a short notice stating that Major McKinley was passing through Chicago on his way to Minneapolis. Perhaps I was mistaken when I thought Kohlsaat was a little excited, but I would be telling a down right untruth if I were to say that I was not excited. He told me to hurry over to the Inter-Ocean office and meet Major McKinley! I had only a few blocks to go and I went over there faster than I ever went anywhere. There were too many people on the street for me to run, but I got there in a very short time. I could never forget that meeting if I lived a thousand years. I was ushered right into Kohlsaat ? s office and there was McKinley ! I was introduced at once and his hand clasp seemed to give a thrill that went all through me. He told me how Mr. Kohlsaat had spoken to him about me, and was glad to have such good friends. After a few minutes of conversation, the Major asked to be excused for a minute, left the office and re- turned with a book containing all of his speeches and addresses up to that time. He asked for a pen, and wrote on the fly leaf: "To Mr. F. E. Coyne of Chicago. Cor- dially yours, Wm. McKinley. ' ' I thanked him and said that when my boy would be old enough to read that inscription and realize that the writer would then be our Chief Executive, he would think his Dad had been in big company. The Major smiled and said : " I am a little curious to know the age of that boy. ' ' "He is past three now," I said, "and I am sure he IN REMINISCENCE 85 will be able to read that inscription by the time he is seven. ' ' The Major smiled, and then said, "I am sure he will find the printing and binding in that book of very good quality. ' ' That ended the visit, and we all walked to the ele- vator. As I entered the car last, I took off my hat and off came McKinley's. Mr. Kohlsaat said: "Put on your hat, Coyne, we don't want the Major to catch cold and miss the Minneapolis speech. That was my first meeting with McKinley, which afterwards grew into an acquaintance that ripened into a friendship, of which I shall have a great deal to write later. Book Skree Chapter I In the early days of the McKinley-Bryan campaign, many people whom I met on the outer edges of political circles, on being introduced, would ask me if I was the author of "Coin's Financial School". The author of that fantastic work on finance was Mr. William Hope Harvey; generally known as Coin Harvey. Of course, there was no good reason for any such foolish question, except the similarity of sound. Coin and Coyne. There was, however, a great deal of difference in the amount of "coin" he was gathering in from his book, compared to what was coming to me in the more prosaic business of coffee and corned beef hash, and Coyne's bread. I believe, that for a time, Harvey's book had more readers than Elbert Hubbard's story of how McKinley sent the "Message to Garcia"; although the latter had more lasting popularity. Harvey's book was the most cleverly composed work on "Free Silver" ever written. It came out at a time when William Jennings Bryan had succeeded up to a cer- tain point, in making the "Paramount Issue" of the ap- proaching campaign — the free coinage of silver at the ratio of sixteen to one. Many of my personal acquaint- ances were carried away by Harvey's style of handling the subject. IN REMINISCENCE 87 He had created a mythical small school boy and named him Coin. Then he wonld frame up a dialogue between Coin and an ideal business man, or banker, who would ask some hypothetical question pertaining to the money system, which Coin would answer in a very simple way — showing always that the business man was wrong — and, in most cases, make the latter admit that he was wrong! Indeed, many readers of the book were con- verted to Harvey's ideas; at least temporarily. I doubt if ever before or since, there was a book pub- lished that fooled so many people, during the campaign. I note that Mr. Harvey departed from this life Feb- ruary 11th, 1936 at the ripe old age of eighty-five. I understand that he remained firm in the belief of his theories on the money question up to the last days of his life. Mr. Harvey was as active as ever in 1931, when he was selected as the candidate of the "Liberty Party' ' for President of the United States. Chapter II The Democratic Convention in 1896 held in the Colosseum in Chicago, has a fixed place in the political history of our country, as the " Crown of Thorns" and " Cross of Gold" Convention. I have always regretted that I missed that speech, especially because of the fact that I had a season ticket for the Convention, given to me by John W. Ekhart, a democratic friend of mine, who was on the committee of arrangements. I attended the convention for the first two days of that week, and then loaned my ticket to another demo- cratic friend, who wished to go on Wednesday, prom- ising that he would return the ticket to me on Thursday morning — the day when it was predicted the nomination would be made. However, he never did return my ticket and so I missed the speech that led to the nomination of William Jennings Bryan ; and for a time threatened his election. While I was not present in the convention I had many friends who were, so have a very clear recollection of what I missed, from some of those who told me all about it. John Ekhart sat directly facing Bryan and I shall try to describe the situation as he gave it to me a few days later. The delegates were all tied up in a deadlock and as soon as Bryan ascended to the platform it was easy to see that they were all keyed up for some fireworks. After IN REMINISCENCE 89 the loud applause of his admirers, and some "boos" from the eastern delegates, had subsided, he started out with the most sensational speech that was ever made in the history of a party convention. Directly back of Bryan, was a large window, open- ing out on an open court behind the building. As the speaker stood, his form was perfectly framed by the window, which was not curtained. This was noticeable to many of his auditors who remembered it later on. As he proceeded in his speech after lambasting "Wall Street' ' and its "oppressors of the poor", he worked up to a point for his peroration. The light through the window behind him made his figure — in long black Prince Albert coat — seem to be part of a stage set- ting, put there for a purpose ; then as he neared the end — referring to the "barons of great wealth", he roared out: "We will say to them — you shall not press down upon the brow of labor this crown of thorns; you shall not crucify mankind upon a cross of gold!" As he ut- tered these last words he spread out his arms, cross like, at full length, with open hands, which completed a scene that moved all who saw it ; and from that dramatic climax the convention was in his hands. I have heard people say that Bryan had that speech corked up for some time, waiting for the right place to spring it ; and that he timed it to the moving of the light to get the effect. That may be so, and if he did so plan it, he was very successful. Bryan's campaign was soon under way. Our 90 IN REMINISCENCE country was going through a depression that was the result of free trade. Factories that had to compete with cheap foreign labor; had been closed. Railroads were going into the hands of receivers. Credits that had been easy before, had been restricted and banks were calling in their loans. Bread lines were in operation in all large cities. It was a time to appeal to the masses, to the dis- contented, the unemployed and a time to stir the passions of the unemployed against those to whom they must look for work and wages. Bryan knew all this and knew well how to work on the masses, by means of his wonderful gift of oratory and power of speech. His " Cross of Gold and Crown of Thorns" speech was put on the records, and run off on phonographs throughout the country. His promises of "free silver" made many converts from Republican ranks. At the same time "Coin's Financial School" had a wide circu- lation and its cleverly written articles were a great aid to Bryan. I pause for a moment to shudder over the thought of what might have happened if the radio had then been in use as it is today! Bryan would have been elected by his convincing arguments and silver toned oratory; for he surely had the sympathy of the masses, when they heard his voice. I never saw such a sight as I witnessed when Bryan came to Chicago. He had been widely billed and other- wise advertised for a big show by his campaign com- mittee. IN REMINISCENCE 91 Canal Street was crowded in front of the Union Depot. All down Madison to Market, and Washington to Michigan Avenue, the streets were thickly lined with people waiting to see Bryan. I had a seat at a second story window in the office of S. T. Gunderson in the Chamber of Commerce Building, at the corner of La Salle and Washington, and could see the crowd from Market Street to Michigan Avenue. There must have been not less than two hundred thousand people waiting at the depot and along the line of march. Finally, when the train which was carrying him ar- rived, there was great difficulty in getting him into the carriage that was waiting for him. The crowds closed in, trying to get near enough to even touch the horses or the carriage in which he rode. They fell in behind, and followed in a solid mass the whole length of the route all shouting " Bryan, Bryan, Bryan!" We could hear the roar clear down to La Salle Street. He rode in a large barouche with the top down, and, instead of sitting on the back seat, he was perched up on the lowered top so he could see all, and be seen. This show, as I remember, was about the middle of summer, and there was little doubt then but what Bryan would be elected. But, the excitement did not last. There were a lot of Democrats who did not agree with Bryan on the free silver issue, but went along half heartedly breaking away however, after his second nom- ination, in 1900 by the Populists and " Bryan Demo- crats' \ In the second campaign, his "paramount" issue was "Government Ownership of Railroads". 92 IN REMINISCENCE In the election of 1900 he was more badly beaten than before. In the 1896 election, McKinley received 271 electoral votes, Bryan 176. In 1900 McKinley 's electoral vote was 292, Bryan's 155. In both elections, McKinley carried the popular vote, by nearly a million votes. Chapter III The first Republican Convention I ever attended was in 1884, at Chicago, in the old Exposition Building on Michigan Avenue. I was present at only one session, during which Gen- eral John A. Logan was nominated for Vice President. There was some friction over Blaine's nomination for President. I remember quite well, the applause which greeted Logan's name and the unanimity with which he was nominated. I thought that his living in Illinois had much to do with it — but it was not long afterwards that opinions were expressed openly from all parts of the country that Logan should have been at the head of the ticket. I had seen Logan. His manner and poise, associated with his war history, impressed me as it did all who knew him. I little thought at that time I would become per- sonally acquainted with him — as I did — two years after his unsuccessful campaign for election. One day William E. Mason, who was a friend of Logan called me on the phone and informed me that John A. Logan was in town, and asked me if I would not like to meet the General. Of course, I assented and met Mason at the Grand Pacific Hotel, where we went up on the elevator and found Logan alone in his room waiting for us. A few years before Mason had managed Logan's campaign for 94 IN REMINISCENCE United States Senator before the State Legislature, and was the organizer of the famous 101 Club, made up of members of the House and Senate which held the contest in a deadlock for quite a number of weeks. I might mention parenthetically that the deadlock was broken and Logan elected through a ruse that was carried out by the State Eepublican Committee; appar- ently paying no attention to a special election, pending in a strongly democratic district. The democrats were so sure and confident of their candidate, that they paid little attention until it was too late. It seems that the Eepublicans had a number of bogus lightning rod agents working in the district, and where they found a farmer whom they could trust they would take him into the plan of appearing to be not interested in the election. Thus they organized quite a working force that did not show its hand until afternoon of election day, when they came to the election booths and voted for the Ee- publican candidate. Along about mid-afternoon the Democrats awoke to the situation and started out a rally cry, but it was too late; when the votes were counted, the Eepublican had a small majority, which gave Logan 102 votes, the required amount — and he was elected United States Senator. When we called on the General, Mason remarked that he had telephoned because he thought there would be a rush of callers and the General would be busy receiving. Logan smiled and said: "The crowds don't IN REMINISCENCE 95 come now, Billy, like they did when the campaign was on. We then had cheering crowds wherever we went — fire- works — brass bands and flowers on every side, bnt after the campaign was over, when I came back home, there were not enough people to make a corporal's guard to meet me," That is the way of the world ; and that is why a man should not get swell headed over any temporary success or become down hearted over any temporary adversity. For after all, all things are temporary. A few years after General Logan's death I met Mrs. Logan at the home of the Mason's on Washington Boule- vard. I was very much impressed by the feelings she expressed for her departed husband. It was indeed with veneration for his memory as she talked to "Will Ma- son" — as she called him. I afterwards met Mrs. Logan in Washington, D. C, when she recalled having met me at Mason's home. After what I have read of the life of Abraham Lin- coln and seen of Mrs. Logan, I am convinced that Mrs. Lincoln and Mrs. Logan had much to do with the shap- ing of the political lives of their respective husbands. Chapter IV The tunnels under the main branch of the river at La Salle Street, and under the South branch at Wash- ington Street, were other evidences of Chicago's thrift and ability to overcome difficulties. At the time of which I write, there were bridges at Eush, State, Dearborn, Clark and Wells Streets, over the main river, and at Lake, Madison, Adams, Van Buren, Polk and Twelfth Streets on the south branch. The bridges in those days — operated by hand — were on the move a great deal of the time, night and day, be- cause of the growing amount of river traffic. The tunnels afforded some relief, and were used by light vehicles and foot passengers during the rush hours. There were lumber, coal, and steel barges being towed, and quite frequently large steamships under their own power passing at all hours. It was a common occur- rence for a large steamer to get stuck in the draw and hold up traffic for hours at a time. The delay was not all of the annoyance. In those days the sewage of Chicago emptied into the north and south branches of the Chicago River, where at times it remained stagnant creating a stench upon the water, especially when boats were passing, stirring up the mud. It was in truth unbearable at such times. Quite often, according to the wind direction, the flow from the river was driven out into the lake towards the water works cribs, which furnished Chicago's water IN REMINISCENCE 97 supply. At such times, the health authorities gave out warnings to "boil the water before drinking". All of this time there were pumping plants on the south branch at Bridgeport, pumping the water out of the river into a canal that emptied into the Desplaines River from which it flowed into the Illinois, thence to the Mississippi River. As the city grew in population the sewage naturally increased until a condition existed that was intolerable, endangering the health of the entire population of Chi- cago. However, the old "Spirit of Chicago'', was then aroused and started a movement for relief that proved to be the most stupendous task ever undertaken up to that time. When the Chicago drainage project was started, even those who were busy working out the plans had no conception of what it was leading up to, or where it was going to end. I was a member of the first delegation that went to Springfield to obtain an appropriation for the purpose of widening the Chicago river (by authority of the War Department) and digging a drainage canal to relieve the people of Chicago of a very unhealthy condition that threatened the lives of its people. No thought was then given to a ship canal. The main object was to improve the sewage system of Chicago by means of a drainage canal, thereby insuring a dependable supply of pure water. I believe the first appropriation was $30,000,000.00 with authority to establish a drainage district and assess taxes on property therein. 98 IN REMINISCENCE Ossian Guthrie, a consulting engineer and geologist of more than ordinary ability, also one of Chicago's oldest inhabitants, had given much study to some such plans, including the practicability of some day providing a navigable waterway, connecting Lake Michigan with the Gulf of Mexico. There was much attention paid to Mr. Guthrie's theories, but the work at hand was the drainage project. After the election of a Board of Drainage Trustees, of which B. A. Ekhart, one of Chicago's most energetic civic leaders was President, Mr. Isham Randolph was placed in general charge of construction, and stayed with it until the work was completed. I ought to add here, that the men and women whose names I dwell upon in these writings are by no means all of those who with time and money did much for the re- building of Chicago. Practically all of those I mention were personal acquaintances. The lack of space keeps me within the bounds of brevity in mentioning names of others. Taking into account the results achieved by the Drainage Board, this was the greatest accomplishment of any city in our country. Let us sum up. Purification of a water supply to 3,000,000 people; a sewage system that will be good for ages to come; reversal of the current of the Chicago Eiver, making it flow up stream, so to speak, thereby changing it from a putrid, poisonous, bad-smelling bayou, to a clear water stream that invites fresh-water fish from the depths of Lake Michigan. Indeed, lake perch have been taken from down the river as far south as the City IN REMINISCENCE 99 of Peoria, Illinois. That statement was proven in the trial of a damage suit by citizens of Peoria who charged that the "Chicago Drainage Canal had poluted the Illi- nois River". Chicago won its case largely on the introduction of evidence of the lake perch. On that point, Illinois should no longer be called the ' * Sucker State ' ', the honor should go to the lake perch — a more edible morsel than the sucker at all events. The deepening of the Chicago Eiver and dredging of the Illinois, connected with the completion of the drain- age canal led to a revival of the agitation in favor of a waterway from the Great Lakes to the Gulf of Mexico. In the starting up again of this plan there was difficulty in obtaining the approval of the United States Govern- ment, because of the opposition of the War Department Engineers. It was not until the project was considered from the standpoint of a move to govern the flow of the Mississippi Eiver, as a life and property saving measure, that the Congress took an interest in the plans. In the Spring of 1927, 1 was living near New Orleans when Major Thompson, William Lorimer and several other men of political and business life of Chicago ar- rived on a large steamboat from St. Louis, on a pilgrim- age of promotion, with plans to combine into a working force, a movement of representatives of all states af- fected by the over-flowing of the Mississippi River. At that time the levees on the river at New Orleans were in a very precarious condition. Thousands of men were piling sand bags above and around the city. At 100 IN REMINISCENCE places the water was only a few inches below the top of the levee. There was a large gathering of citizens at a lunch- eon given to the visitors that taxed the capacity of the Eoosevelt Hotel. Mayor O'Keefe of New Orleans welcomed the vis- itors. There were speakers from New Orleans, and from the Chicago delegation. The affair was practically a hand shaking love feast of the two cities. I had the good fortune to be in New Orleans for the day, and at- tended the luncheon. William Lorimer had been working on the plans for almost a lifetime, and was well fortified with facts and figures showing that a combination of the plans, for river safety and navigation, was feasible and would win the approval of Congress and the War Department. Mayor Thompson followed Lorimer, and held out his hand to Mayor O'Keefe pledging all the forces at his command to work with New Orleans for river improve- ment. When the two mayors clasped hands, the entire au- dience stood at attention and applauded with great en- thusiasm. It was an inspiring sight to see those two dignitaries, with a combined weight of not less than a quarter of a ton, in a hand clasp of brotherly love. I believe it was this meeting, that brought about the completion of the spillway above New Orleans, insuring the city against the danger of future floods. Chapter V I have heard Chicagoans say that nature did little for Chicago — that man did it all. That is a fact only in a small way, while it is true to a great extent that her growth has been the wonderful work of her citizens, na- ture did much that has sometimes been overlooked or forgotten. In the first place, lumber for building purposes was easily available from Wisconsin and Michigan by water transportation, inexhaustible building sand on the shores of Lake Michigan, limestone in Indiana, and marl pits in Michigan furnished materials for cement. Indi- ana and Illinois furnished coal within easy distance of Chicago. Indiana had a superior supply of brick clay. Iron ore was available by water from the Mesaba Kange, at the head of Lake Superior, and copper from the Calu- met mines in Michigan. Another provision of Dame Nature was the fertile prairies of Illinois, which made it the great grain pro- ducing state ; and more than that, the climatic condition made Chicago the ideal center for the storage of wheat. It was the fact that wheat keeps better in the climate in which it is grown ; that kept the wheat from going down to New Orleans, the most convenient sea port in the early days; thereby creating the immense elevator interests, so largely connected with the industrial growth of Chi- cago. Again, beef and pork naturally kept in touch with the grain, thus making logical the establishment of the 102 IN REMINISCENCE Union Stock Yards and the packing house industry. Here again the climatic conditions aided Chicago, in the storage of meats. Before artificial cooling, Chicago had at hand facilities for cold storage. There was available all the ice they could harvest in the winter months, for the mere cost of cutting and storing it. All of these features gave invitation for railroads to establish terminals in Chicago, as the facilities for road building and equipment were unsurpassed. As the railroads became more numerous, street crossings at grade became a serious problem. Every year the number of accidents increased in spite of all precautions in the way of flag men and gates. The num- ber of deaths and injuries were appalling. Alderman John 'Neil, in the City Council for many years, was the father of the movement to abolish grade crossings entirely, in the City of Chicago. He stuck to his idea in spite of all kinds of adverse criticism, from railroad officials and many property owners. Kailroads would be obliged to elevate their tracks, and buildings in many cases would have to be raised, all of which would involve an expense that would be beyond all reasoning. O'Neil was called a crank and his colleagues with few exceptions, referred to him as a " grade crossing Jack". O'Neil with the true "Spirit of Chicago" stuck to the fight until he won out. One of the grave questions was how could the railroads raise their tracks without stoppage of operation? And how could that be done without paralyzing business? Here again Dame Nature showed herself. Lake Michigan, for centuries had been washing up IN REMINISCENCE 103 sands, until by wind and water, the great sand dunes of Michigan City had been formed, almost mountain high! 'Neil had a plan worked out to his own satisfaction whereby the tracks could be raised with little if any inter- ruption of their operations, at a small cost, compared to what it was costing the roads for grade crossing acci- dents, and delays. When he first announced that he was going to use sand to raise the tracks there was some surprise. "What? Eun the railroads on sand? That's crazy !" Here was his plan: build retaining walls on each side of the railroad out of limestone from Indiana, place iron girders at street intersections, allowing for slight declivities for under-passes, fill in the sand by train loads, raising the tracks, ties and all, as the sand would build up, hardly disturbing traffic as the work would proceed. After approval of the plans by the city engineers, the railroads acquiesced, and the City Council with the backing of Mayor Harrison passed 'Neil's ordinance, and the work started at the earliest date possible. Thus again the "Spirit of Chicago", thanks to Alderman 'Neil's perseverance had achieved a great accomplish- ment in the abolition of grade crossings. Chapter VI In the matter of street car transportation, the City of Chicago was always behind her necessities. When the cable system was introduced, it seemed for a while as if the service was up to requirements — when the cable or grip car was not out of commission. At such times there were many vexatious delays, as the stoppages were usually in the rush hours of the morning or evening when people were going to or returning from work, or business. When the cable system was abandoned for the elec- tric lines there was some relief for a while, but the serv- ice was never up to the requirements of the constantly growing population. It seemed as if there could have been more cars in operation, but this scarcity of cars could be accounted for in the fact so frankly expressed by Charles T. Yerkes, who owned and operated the North and West Side sys- tems. "The strap hangers pay the dividends." Mr. Yerkes came from Philadelphia, where he had made a financial success of the street car system in the "City of Brotherly Love". He was not long in securing a controlling interest in the North and West Side systems of Chicago, and handled them for his personal interests. The first elevated railroad was installed on Lake Street and ran from West Fortieth Street to Canal. The South Side elevated at first ran from Van Buren Street to Washington Park, through the alleys and thus became known as the Alley L. IN REMINISCENCE 105 The Northwestern Elevated, on the North Side and the Metropolitan on the West Side came along later and afterwards combined with the others in a union loop structure surrounding the down town business section, bounded by Lake Street, Fifth Avenue, Van Buren Street and Wabash Avenue, making practical the operation over the loop structure by trains of each company, on a double track system. The elevateds did increase the facilities for those living in the outskirts, and relieved to some extent the difficulties of the short haul riders on the surface lines, but the straphangers were still in evidence. The elevateds — which for a long time had paid no dividends to stockholders — were pretty playthings for the boys on the stock exchange. They were generally re- ferred to as North Side L, Lake Street L, Alley L, and Polly L. The ups and downs of these stocks made plenty of business for the Chicago Stock Exchange. I can not now recall how many receiverships were involved, particularly of the Lake Street line. I recall an incident of the old days when the stock exchange was in the "Crilly" Building on Dearborn Street, opposite the First National Bank. It was during trading hours on the floor of the ex- change at a moment when there was not much trading going on. A broker offered one hundred shares of Lake Street L at 7V2 ! Another broker, standing nearby, said in a sneering sort of a way: "Huh! I'll sell you a million for that price ! ' ' The first broker yelled out: "Sold!" And pro- 106 IN REMINISCENCE ceeded to make a memorandum of the sale. Then there was some excitement. They were both members of the exchange and under the rules it was a sale. The trading had only been in small lots — and there was no more chance of getting a million shares at that price, than there would be of buying the First National across the street. When the excitement was over all agreed that it was a deal, except the broker who offered the million shares. He said he was just joking, as of course it would be im- possible to obtain that amount of stock at any price. Just what was the outcome I do not remember but I believe the buyer let up on the seller and all things ended in good humor. There has been a lot of talk for many years in Chicago about a subway or underground system of trans- portation. The subject has been more or less of a political foot- ball in the mayoralty campaigns for a generation; but the nearest it came to a reality as far as I know, would be in connection with the underground system built by the Illinois Tunnel Company, under the supervision of George W. Jackson, who spent more time underground than he did on the surface in working out that system of "subservice electric railways". I had considerable experience with the Illinois Tunnel Company in more ways than one, in my own business, and my administration as Postmaster, the lat- ter I shall describe later on. As our wholesale bakery business increased, I was IN REMINISCENCE 107 obliged to put on more wagons, which were loaded in the alley generally about two o 'clock in the morning. Powers and O'Briens Saloon was next door to me, on Madison Street. My drivers began to complain to me that they were sometimes blocked in the alley by dirt carts, which were filled from an elevator, coming up from under Powers & O'Briens Saloon. This was a surprise to me so I called on my next door neighbor — Johnny Powers, Alderman of the 19th Ward, and explained the inconvenience and delay the work was causing me, and asked him what it was all about. He was very nice to me and assured me that he would arrange to have the work halted during such times as my wagons were in the alley. He informed me that a test was being made as to the practicability of a sub-way, under all the down town streets. He took me out to a point near Canal and Jackson Streets, where he showed me an opening about fourteen feet high by about twelve feet wide, which he said was a sample of what the subway would be when completed. So far as I know, that was about as far as any movement went towards building a subway for trans- portation of passengers in the City of Chicago. The Illinois Tunnel Company did build a subway under the alleys of the down town district for the pur- pose of transporting freight in and out of the larger business houses, and hauling debris from buildings being demolished, to make way for sky-scraper buildings, in which there was great activity in those days. 108 IN REMINISCENCE With remarkable (?) foresight the City Council, some time before the beginning of this tunnel building, had passed an ordinance providing for filling in what was known as the lake front park. This gave a splendid place to dump the debris from demolished buildings and the excavation spill from the tunnels. A very wise piece of foresight. The tunnels were a great convenience for the auto- matic telephone wires — dial system — at a reduced cost. This whole work was carried out with very little publicity and very few people knew much about it until the work was completed. A full description of an experience I had as Post- master, will appear in a later chapter, pertaining to the transportation of mails through these tunnels. Chapter VII Jane Addams, than whom the poor and unfortunate people of Chicago had no better woman friend, had be- come a national figure, long before she passed away. Of all the men or women I have ever met, not one showed more in manner or in speech so much of good honesty of purpose and determination to do things, as did Miss Addams. Mild and kindly in greeting people; yet modesty and reserve marked her every action and word. When first I saw Hull House, it was in response to Miss Addam's invitation to attend one of their regular evening meetings, just to see what was going on there. She showed me through her establishment and told me of some of the difficulties she had met with in building up Hull House, as a community settlement. She had first bought an old warehouse as a foundation for her work. From that time on I have never lost interest in Hull House. When I was on the Daily News lecture staff, giving my stereopticon and moving picture entertain- ment (every fortnight) in the public schools, I gave sev- eral dates to Hull House and was welcomed by intelligent and attentive audiences. "Social settlement" work was not so well thought of in Chicago prior to the development of Hull House, but when the people began to realize that Miss Addams was performing a real work, in showing people of re- stricted means and opportunities how to help themselves, 110 IN REMINISCENCE without arousing class hatred or anarchistic teachings, she received lots of encouragement and material assist- ance in her most excellent work. I am not attempting to add anything to what has been said in laudation of Miss Addams. That indeed would be as hopeless as trying to " paint the lily" and I only touch on this subject to remind people of how much she did for Chicago. H. H. Kohlsaat and I, notwithstanding the fact that we were competitors in the wholesale bakery and lunch room business, were the very best of friends, from the time I started buying cakes from his bakery until we were both busted. In passing I might add that if we had both stuck to the bakery business, we probably would not have gone broke. Anyone who had a friend in H. H. Kohlsaat had a friend indeed. He was always ready to lend a helping hand, whether it was for the community at large, or a friend in need. He was fond of a good joke, and if it was at his ex- pense he enjoyed the telling of it all the more. One story that he told me was about an experience he had with Joseph Medill when he tried to buy the Chicago Tribune. Kohlsaat did not understand that the Tribune was for sale, but having had a taste of journalism in his own- ership of the Inter-Ocean — which he had just reluctantly sold to William Penn Nixon — he was anxious (naturally) to get back in the game. The thought occurred to him as Mr. Medill was get- IN REMINISCENCE 111 ting along in years, he might consider a proposition to sell out and retire. They got together and it looked at first as if they might come to an agreement. As Kohlsaat told me, he made an offer of a million dollars for the paper, exclusive of the real estate, of course ; but Medill shook his head and said the paper was worth double that amount and he might consider an offer of something like that. Kohlsaat 's immediate cash re- sources were slightly under a million, but he thought to himself that the paper was worth more, so he proposed a payment of one million cash, and a million in first mort- gage bonds. Medill shook his head and said, " Those bonds would not be considered at all". "Why!", said Kohlsaat, "with the paper doing the business that it now is, those bonds could be paid off easily in a few years ' \ Medill looked at him with a smile and said, "Yes, they could be with Joseph Medill running the paper, but God knows what would happen to the Tribune in the handsof H. H. Kohlsaat". The joke was so good that Kohlsaat had to tell it to a few friends. That was as near as he came to owning the Tribune. I presume today the Tribune is worth twenty million or more ; probably more. The foregoing lines bring to my mind the story Kohlsaat told me about his parting with the Inter-Ocean. He and William Penn Nixon had been very close friends for years, and remained so, even through their unpleasant experiences as partners in the newspaper business. 112 IN REMINISCENCE After Kohlsaat bought the majority stock in the paper, he took charge and made changes in the business management, as well as in the policy of the paper. The old Inter-Ocean was often called the " Bible of the Republican Party", under the control of the Nixons. Kohlsaat was a Republican, but believed the paper should be more independent, and deal in personalities, and measures, on independent lines. Nixon and he did not seem to be able to agree on so many points, that they finally agreed to disagree, until they could find some way out of the difficulty. After a while Kohlsaat made the proposition to Nixon that he buy out Kohlsaat 's interest, or sell his interest to Kohlsaat, or that Nixon retain his interest, but leave the entire management and policy of the paper in Kohlsaat 's hands. Mr. Nixon — in view of the fact that Kohlsaat owned about two-thirds of the stock — considered this a fair offer, and asked how much time he could have to decide. They agreed on a time limit which was satisfactory to Mr. Nixon. I do not remember how long it was, but the deal was to be accomplished at twelve o'clock noon, on the last day of the time limit. Mr. Kohlsaat was in his office with his check on the desk waiting for Mr. Nixon, never thinking that the latter would be able to raise the required amount. At one or two minutes before twelve Nixon came in and laid a cashier's check on the Chicago National Bank (John R. Walsh's Bank) on Kohlsaat 's desk and said, "I am ready to close the deal". Kohlsaat told me that he accepted Nixon's check and took another look at the IN REMINISCENCE 113 clock. It had stopped on the minute of twelve o'clock! It was never known to stop before, he said, so far as they could recall. Mr. Kohlsaat had a hard time keeping out of the newspaper business. His next venture was taking over the Chicago Herald, and consolidating it with the Morning Record, a morning paper started by Victor F. Lawson calling the new paper the Chicago Record-Herald. The effect of this was a caustic remark from the acidulous Governor Altgeld, who had it in for Kohlsaat. Altgeld was quoted as having said, " Kohlsaat be- lieves that the consolidation of two independent papers will make one Republican paper". A former remark of Altgeld 's was that " Kohlsaat is regarded among bakers, as a great newspaper man, and among newspaper men as a great baker". I believe Kohlsaat had as much fun over the above remarks as any one. John McCutcheon had a lot of fun and furnished amusement for the readers of both papers when he made the cartoon of the McKinley Presidential train with Kohlsaat trying to run it. Then Kohlsaat came back with the same style of cartoon with Medill trying to get on board. Chapter VIII The McKinley Bryan Campaign, as far as the general public was aware, opened up in 1894, but it was actually put in motion the night of the November election in 1892, announcing the election of Grover Cleveland for his second term, as I referred to in earlier pages of these notes. William McKinley was well known for his unselfish devotion to his country, in and out of Congress, loyalty to his party, and its traditions, when party lines were at stake. He volunteered his services to the Union Army, at the age of eighteen serving as a private, was soon ele- vated to a captaincy and was mustered out as a Major in 1865. His service in Congress — and as Governor of Ohio — made him known throughout the whole country. His pleasing personality was a magnet that drew people to him, and the politicians of both parties saw in him a real type of the American gentleman and statesman. I remember the impression he made when he rode a black horse in the parade during the exercises connected with the dedication of the Columbian Exposition in Octo- ber 1892. Up to this time the only public mention of his name for the Presidency was in the convention of that year, when he was a delegate from Ohio, voting for the nomina- tion of John Sherman, Ohio's favorite son. Some of McKinley 's admirers tried to start a stam- IN REMINISCENCE 115 pede for him ; then some cast their votes accordingly ; but McKinley stood up in the convention and announced in unmistakable words that he could never again regard any man as a friend of his who would vote for him while he was there as a delegate voting for John Sherman, the unanimous choice of the State of Ohio. When the returns came in showing the landslide to Cleveland, largely the result of the " Mugwumps' ' (dis- gruntled Republicans) vote, little groups of admirers of McKinley — believers in his protection tariff policies — gathered here and there, all over our country, without any preconceived plan, and, as was afterwards learned, generally discussed the situation somewhat as follows: ' ' McKinley' ' and "McKinleyism" had been made the issue by the Democratic Party. Cleveland's campaign platform plank of a "Tariff for Revenue, only" had caught a great many independent votes and drew the i ' Mugwumps ' ' from the Republicans. The conclusion was, that it would not be long before the voters would realize their mistake and the natural reaction would be a return to the policy of protection, and regard McKinley as their logical leader. That line of reasoning was reflected in the action of McKinley 's friends in practically all of the Northern States. The principle groups were in Ohio, New York, Illinois, Iowa, Indiana, Michigan and Nebraska. I expect no one man did more to spread the doctrine, than did Charles G. Dawes. At the time I first met Dawes he was living in Evanston, Illinois. He had formerly lived in Lincoln, Nebraska, where he had gone from Marietta, Ohio. 116 IN REMINISCENCE He had friends in all of those places, and made friends wherever he went, for with no liking for politics in the general sense of that word, he was a good mixer and had a real magnetism that drew men to him, even many of those whom he met, with opposite opinions to his views. The politicians of Illinois — that is, the "organiza- tion" — were not in favor of McKinley. The state, outside of Chicago, under the leadership of John R. Tanner, and Cook County under the leader- ship of William Lorimer, were pretty strongly en- trenched in favor of Thomas B. Reed — although they were openly advocating Senator Shelby M. Collum as the favorite son of Illinois — the old gag ! So Dawes had no easy job ahead of him. The situation was well described by William E. Ma- son who was then a candidate for United States Senator, when he said — mocking one of the machine workers — "There ain't nobody for McKinley but the people I" That described the situation fully, from the standpoint of the machine politicians of Illinois. It did not take Dawes long to locate men with suf- ficient influence to carry precincts and elect delegates to conventions, who were not under the domination of the "machine". As soon as the lines were drawn a great many men with political ambitions, observing the spontaneous senti- ment in favor of McKinley, saw their opportunity to break into politics — on the wave of his popularity. Others, mostly men of business affairs, who had never taken part in politics, moved only by a desire to help the IN REMINISCENCE 117 McKinley movement offered their services. These were sneeringly referred to by the professional politicians as "neophytes in politics". Dawes, for a new man, showed an ability to organize these forces, into a working body, that was really an eye- opener. The first showing of hands took place in the State Convention at Springfield. The McKinley forces were well organized. Each member of the organization who had a vote in the con- vention was in close touch with the leaders, so that any plan or change of plan was soon made known to the dele- gates. W. J. Calhoun, an ardent friend of McKinley was chosen by Mr. Dawes as the floor leader of the McKinley forces. There was no fight for the organization of the con- vention; the test was to come on the instructions of the delegates-at-large to the National Convention at St. Louis. The State Convention had adopted rules to govern its procedure which provided that the adoption of a mo- tion to lay on the table any amendment or substitute to a principal motion would carry the whole subject matter with it. That was in accordance with parliamentary law in the adopted rules. So the machine had planned that when the motion to instruct for McKinley would be made, one of their leaders would offer a motion to amend by substituting the name of Shelby M. Cullom in place of McKinley which was followed by a motion to lay the mo- tion to amend on the table, in the belief that enough McKinley delegates would be fooled into voting to lay on the table, which with the machine votes would carry the 118 IN REMINISCENCE motion to table and thereby kill the whole subject matter of instructions, and leave the delegates at large free from instructions, as to how they should vote at the National Convention. After all, that was their real desire, as it was gener- ally understood that the machine was for Thomas B. Keed! The motion to lay on the table was undebatable, so to clear the minds of our delegates, we had to do some hurry up work to get our men to vote against the motion. I believe we did have a few "weak sisters" who voted to table, but when the roll was called the votes showed that the motion to table was defeated. Then came up the main question which was debatable and W. J. Calhoun got the floor. In all my experience in political affairs before or since, I never enjoyed such a thrill as I got from Cal- houn's leadership. He stood on a chair in the middle of the floor and delivered a speech in favor of instructions for McKinley, which awoke thrills in his followers, and impressed many of his opponents with respect for his personality. His figure, his voice, his gestures, and his words were all in perfect harmony. It was indeed a splendid picture. Few who were there ever forgot it. When he finished, the public in the gallery and a majority of the delegates on the floor broke loose in a thunder of applause. That settled the fight, for McKinley carried the convention. I shall have an opportunity in some notes later on to show more of the magnificent manhood of W. J. Cal- houn. IN REMINISCENCE 119 After the battle of the State Convention it was no difficult matter to secure instructed delegates in Congres- sional District Conventions. After McKinley 's nomination in the St. Louis Con- vention came the call to close the ranks, and get ready for the Fall campaign for election. William Jennings Bryan, out boldly for the "Free Coinage of Silver at the ratio of sixteen to one" was already in the field, addressing meetings everywhere, preaching to the masses the gospel of hatred for the rich. The Eepublican campaign could not be considered as really on the way until the master hand of Mark Hanna took the wheel. He was an organizer, well liked by business men, and laboring men who knew him. He was a man of a most splendid character, friendly ap- pearance, and a warm personality that drew people to him, not the slightest sign of self consciousness, with an ardent regard for McKinley that almost approached the extreme of reverence. He had been a successful business man, had never taken a personal part in politics, and knew little of the ways of politicians. If I were to draw a picture of him, it would be a composite mixture of William McKinley, Charles G. Dawes and W. J. Calhoun. All three of them were alike in some ways and different in others, but in all, they aimed for one target — the aim to do right. In all of the cartoons of Mr. Hanna of an adverse nature, none hurt his feelings so much as those that tried to convey the impression that McKinley was a mere pup- 120 IN REMINISCENCE pet in his hands. Not so much for himself, but because it was unkind to and untrue of McKinley. From my personal observation — and I got to be close to both of them — I would say that if there could have been anything of the kind true, it would be the other way around ; that McKinley could do anything with Mark Hanna. Along about the first week in September, I had an independent canvass made of the 12th Ward, as then numbered, where I thought there ought to be a majority of at least ten thousand votes for the Kepublican ticket. I had some old canvass books which I put in the hands of reliable men on whom I could depend for a thorough canvass of certain precincts that I believed were repre- sentative of the whole ward. The reports were made as to Eepublicans, Democrats, Independents and unknown. When the books were returned I was very much surprised. After the first compilation of returns, and estimates based on the whole Ward, I could not see more than about half what I estimated. Then I took up the number of Independents and unknowns and found there were many more of them than usual. So I kept these figures to myself until the official canvass was made, along about the first week in October. I then made a comparison and found that a large number of Independents' votes had stepped into the Ee- publican column, as well as a few Democrats. Also as near as I could ascertain a lot of unknowns of the former canvass had changed. I learned from friends in other wards that they had experienced about the same conditions. I believe that IN REMINISCENCE 121 the consensus of opinion was that if the election had been in September, Bryan would have been elected, even without the radio. After Mr. Hanna took charge the campaign com- menced to move. His business men's organization was not altogether favored by the older politicians. They thought it would be playing into the hands of Bryan, and would be used by him to show that the business men's money was to be brought out to defeat him. They were for more " pussy foot" methods. But Hanna was not that kind of a man. His plan was to get the labor man. His plan was to get the labor organizations to see that what was good for business, was good for labor. His plan was to appeal to the reason of both. The big parades of the business men was a bold stroke, but the employees took hold with their employers. From then on the tide commenced to turn in favor of McKinley and continued so until election day. The final results were, McKinley 271 electoral votes and 7,102,272 popular votes to Bryan's 176 electoral and 6,273,624 popular votes. Palmer and Buckner on the national Democratic ticket (generally known as the "Gold Democracy") received 133,148 popular votes, but no electoral votes. There was no doubt but what the "Gold Democracy" helped McKinley 's cause more than was shown on the face of the returns. A large number of those "unknowns" were democrats, who "took a walk" and went all the way over and voted for McKinley. Of course, I went to the inauguration ! Senator Ma- son had an offer of a private hotel car in which to take 122 IN REMINISCENCE his family to Washington over the Chesapeake and Ohio Eailroad, but he and Mrs. Mason preferred to go on the Pennsylvania Limited, and let the rest of the family go in the private car. I was invited, as well as two others, Colonel Diston and Wallace E. Shirra, all family friends. We had a great time provisioning the car and getting ready for the trip. Traveling on the rear end of slow trains, we were qnite a time getting to Washington, but none of us begrudged the time, for Lewis Mason, the Senator's oldest son, was the " Major Domo" of the party. We had a steward in charge of the subsistence di- vision who could cook and serve to perfection. It was a very enjoyable trip, and the car was parked in a con- venient place in the B. & 0. yards for the use of the male members of the party while we were in Washington. Senator Mason had secured tickets for seats in the Senate balcony, right near the Presidential box; also seats on the outside steps of the capitol where we could see the President take the oath of office and hear his Inaugural address. That part of the inaugural ceremony which takes place in the Senate chamber is more imposing and elabo- rate than the simple outdoor exercises. All of the sena- tors and members of the lower house of Congress are assembled to see the Vice President and the newly elected senators sworn in. All of the foreign ambassadors, in full uniform and regalia, are announced as they come in and take the seats assigned to them, according to rank. Then the "Presi- dent of the United States and the President Elect" are IN REMINISCENCE 123 announced and escorted to seats in front of the rostrum facing the audience, where they remain until the Vice President and senators are sworn in. President Cleveland looked tired as if he were glad to get through. Mr. McKinley looked as fresh and well groomed as he always did. The very first thing he did after taking his seat was to look up at the balcony with a smile to his wife and mother in the presidential box. From where we sat we could see it all. What a wonderful sight it was! There was a man who had received the highest honor that could be conferred upon him by the people of his country, the country which he loved, and which he had served, from the time he enlisted as a boy, and served through the war, for the perpetuity of the Union. Then fourteen years in Congress; Governor of his state, and now elevated to the highest office within the gift of his countrymen. After the Senate ceremonies, the President Elect was escorted to the outside steps of the capitol, there to take the oath of office in the open air, in the presence of the multitude. After the oath was administered the new President delivered his inaugural address, the opening part of which should be read by every school boy in the nation. "In obedience to the will of the people and in their presence by the authority vested in me, by this oath, I assume the arduous and responsible duties of President of the United States, relying on the support of my countrymen and invoking the guidance of Almighty God. 124 IN REMINISCENCE "Our faith teaches that there is no safer reliance than upon the God of our fathers, who has so singularly favored the American people in every national trial, and who will not forsake us so long as we obey His command- ments and walk staunchly in His footsteps. "The responsibilities of the high trust to which I have been called — always of great importance — are aug- mented by the prevailing business conditions, entailing idleness upon willing labor, and loss to useful enterprise. The country is suffering from industrial disturbance, from which speedy relief must be had. "Our financial system needs some revision. Our money is all good now but its value must not further be threatened. "It should all be put upon an enduring basis, not subject to easy attack, nor its stability to doubt or dis- pute." I am writing only the opening part of his address for the purpose of showing the character of the man. Would to God our country had more men like him today. After the President's address comes the big show — the Presidential Party leading behind the mounted po- lice and military escort, the foreign diplomats, army and navy officers, governors of all the states with staffs of colonels all mounted, West Point and Annapolis Ca- dets on foot, mounted Indians in war bonnets and other decorations, regiments and troops of soldiers and ma- rines with bands, all the civic organizations of the Dis- trict of Columbia, etc. It naturally is the most imposing parade possible in our national official life. The parade passes down Pennsylvania Avenue, IN REMINISCENCE 125 which is lined on both sides with specially built stands for the sightseers. On this occasion our party had two windows on the second floor of an office building facing the Treasury Building at the turn, where we could see the parade as it swung around at Fifteenth Street When the head of the procession reaches the White House, the presidential party take seats on the reviewing stand, from which the President reviews the parade as it passes. It was not long after the new President had entered on the duties of his office, until his friends and advisors began to speculate and plan on matters of appointments. When a new administration comes in, of opposite party denomination to the outgoing, there is naturally a large number of appointments to be made. I remember a statement made by a very close friend of the President, when interviewed on the subject of ap- pointments. He stated that the first consideration would be fitness for the office to be filled; after that his policy would be to reward his friends without punishing his enemies. Whether the friend was speaking by the card or not he certainly knew what he was talking about; for that was exactly the way President McKinley carried on. One of the first appointments made by McKinley was that of his secretary, Jimmy Boyle, the man whom he brought from Ohio. He was all anyone could ask for in that capacity, but there was a better place for him — a position for which he was well fitted, and which meant more for him financially and an opportunity to advance. 126 IN REMINISCENCE John Addison Porter acted as secretary for a while, but was not so well fitted for the position. The next ap- pointment was that of George B. Cortelyou, as secretary to the President. That was not only one of the first, but as it turned out one of the best. Mr. Cortelyou was a man whose attainments were all self made. He first entered the executive service as a stenographer during Grover Cleveland's administra : tion and was by him appointed Executive Clerk. It was while in that position that McKinley discov- ered him and made him Assistant Secretary, and then appointed him Secretary to the President. Mr. Cortelyou was one of the finest men it was ever my good fortune to know — and I have met many good ones in my somewhat eventful career. During the first year of President McKinley 's ad- ministration, he had plenty to do besides making ap- pointments. He had taken up the reins at a time when our country was in a sad state of business depression. Factories were closed, railroads were going into re- ceiverships, farmers were getting little or nothing for their produce, labor of all kinds was prostrated, and all looked to McKinley for the cure. Of course there were those in and out of Congress, who wanted immediate relief, over night, as it were. McKinley stood steady, he never wavered nor did he attempt to usurp powers outside of the executive branch of the government. He had too clear an understanding of our system of government to do that. When he sent his first message to Congress, he did IN REMINISCENCE 127 it in such a way as to impress the members with the fact that if they did their duty he would do his. There was no attempt to take matters in his own hands, until the legislative branch of government had been apprised of the state of the nation and given a chance to act. Eight here I want to repeat as in parenthesis, a remark that I heard from a man sitting next to me on the inaugural stand. It was during a pause in the pro- cedure when he said to his friend beside him, ' ' That man will not have Congress on his hands". I knew that he referred to President Cleveland's remark, on a certain occasion, either spoken or written that he "had Congress on his hands". Right after McKinley's message it could be easily seen by those who wanted to see, that there was a restora- tion of confidence growing. First, the steel mills opened up, railroads were placing orders, banks were offering loans, factories were opening up, wholesale dealers were putting men back on the road, farmers were ordering new equipment, builders were starting up to meet the shortage of buildings. Lumber mills were applying for hands to go to work in the woods, the coal mines were working to make up for the shortage on hand, traffic on the great lakes was resumed, wages were soon on the increase, and it was not long after that the retail trade started up to a point where advertisements of goods, in large display, and help wanted, were crowding the papers to capacity. The street cars were putting on extra trailers, and 128 IN REMINISCENCE more trips to accommodate the workers to and from their work. Then families that had been obliged to concentrate, for economy sake, into crowded quarters, began to ex- pand and look for more room, which, of course, made a demand for more houses. More houses, more lumber, bricks, plaster, paint, glass, builders' hardware; employment for the building trades — how simple it all is to any one, except to those who will not see. Well, it did not take Congress long to see that there was a master hand at the helm and that they really were the legislative branch of the government; so they co- operated with the President and brought about the pros- perity that was promised. Good wages in sound money; there was no over supply or surplus, because there was no underconsump- tion. That autocrat of the breakfast table — old supply and demand — was again in charge of operations. I had not given any thought to the matter of ap- pointment of any kind whatsoever until it was suggested to me by Senator Mason and Charles G. Dawes, at or nearly the same time, and even then, I at first felt that my business required all of my attention. However, hav- ing devoted so much time to political activities, it had been necessary to organize business affairs so as not to require so much personal application, as formerly. That of course was a mistaken idea. Very soon the newspapers began mentioning names for the different federal offices in Chicago. Few pros- pective slates were suggested, that did not include my IN REMINISCENCE 129 name. Collector of the Port, Postmaster, Sub-Treasurer, U. S. Marshall, Collector of Internal Revenue — or what have you. There were candidates in plenty for all of them. One day, my good friend Kohlsaat called me up and asked me if I could come over and see him, to which I responded without delay. When I was on the way over there, the thought occurred to me that he wanted to discuss the matter of appointments. I was not mistaken. He started out with the statement that he was not going to meddle with the affairs of President McKinley pertaining to appointments, and was not going to em- barrass him by any requests for favors whatsoever. He added, however, that he had told John M. Hubbard, who had been Assistant Postmaster for many years, that if consulted, he would favor his appointment as Postmas- ter, therefore he would not like to see me a candidate for that position. I looked at him in amazement, and asked him what made him think I was a candidate for Postmaster. Well, he said it was perfectly natural for the Presi- dent's political friends to select men for the various places to be filled — who had been helpful in his cam- paign; the same was true of Senator Mason. He then added, that as a friend of mine, he would advise that I stick to my business, and not accept any political ap- pointment. I then told him that I was not a candidate for Postmaster nor any position and would not accept any appointment that would take too much time from my business. I added that Senator Mason thought the po- 130 IN REMINISCENCE sition of Collector of Internal Kevenue was at my dis- posal if I wanted it. Kohlsaat then said, "I have no doubt but what the President would like to appoint you but — remember what I say, it would be better for you not to take any office that will take you away from your business". I thanked him for his advice, and wished many, many times I had followed it. Finally the time came for making up the slate for appointments, and I was slated for Internal Eevenue Collector. I had decided that I would stand for the ap- pointment. This was after my business manager had told me that he was quite sure that it would help to build up our wholesale bread business with the retail stores. The revenue office was only two blocks from my Madison Street bakery. I had investigated and found there was very little time required to fulfill the duties of Collector. If I had known what was to happen in the near fu- ture, I would have refused the appointment; for the Spanish American War made it the busiest and hardest of all the federal offices, as will be seen in another chap- ter of this work. Chapter IX During my experience in Chicago, there was no man in the State of Illinois who had more personal friends, and admirers, than " Billy Mason' ' as he was familiarly called throughout the state. And when I say friends, I mean real friends, who were always ready to answer to his call, in fair weather or foul, anywhere, in Illinois from Chicago to Cairo, and from the Indiana line to the Mis- sissippi River. I might add, parenthetically, that I was at a meeting during the McKinley Campaign, when Mark Hanna, then Chairman of the National Republican Committee, said in his address, that they had " twice as many calls for William E. Mason from all over the country, than for any other speaker on the list". Mason was not only a popular stump speaker, but an orator, and debator, who had few equals in the House of Representatives and the United States Senate du- ring the time he was seated in each of those houses. Mason was not of the type of politician who called themselves leaders, when they were only "fixers". He was a character that stood alone, by himself, and, in all of his campaigns, he had to fight the machine. In one of the foregoing pages I told how I met Mr. Mason and of the friendship that grew up between us; so when he announced his candidacy for United States Senator, I was for him from the start, and so announced myself to him with all my heart. In those days the United States Senator was elected 132 IN REMINISCENCE by the State Legislature, usually after endorsement in party caucus. Mason knew lie would have a small chance for the "Machine Support", and decided to go out to the people of the state and have them instruct their candidates for the Legislature to vote for him for Senator. That was the best way for him to go about it, although it meant hard work and a considerable expense. I started out among his neighbors and organized the first "Mason for Senator Club". At the first meeting we subscribed quite a nice sum and appointed a finance committee to see what more could be raised. In a very short time we had enough to start him out. He had mapped out a plan to go into practically every county in the state, having obtained dates of local conventions. He had many friends scattered all over the state, from whom he received enthusiastic encourage- ment. After all the nominations for State Senator and members of the lower house had been made, it began to be clear that Mason had enough candidates instructed for him to make him a formidable candidate. The Eepublican Organization of Chicago and Cook County had taken a stand for Martin B. Madden, a man of large following in Chicago. It was well known however, that the machine en- dorsement of Madden was more for the purpose of re- taining the affections of Doctor Jamieson and a few other south side members of the organization, than to elect Madden. There were several strong cogs in the Cook County machine who did not like Madden but IN REMINISCENCE 133 agreed to his endorsement in Cook County for conveni- ence sake, rather than a desire to elect him Senator. John R. Tanner, then Governor of Illinois, was not in favor of Madden, or Mason for Senator, indeed, it was quite evident that many of his friends tried to get him to be a candidate himself, a proposal that met with very little encouragement from the Governor. All the while Mason was losing no time in his cam- paign to secure enough state senators and members to support him in the Republican caucus. He had, in mem- bers and senators, nearly enough instructed for him, but not quite a majority on the face of the returns. As I remember, it required 63 votes to make a majority of the Republicans, in joint caucus of both houses, to make him its party choice for senator. Mason had, according to his reports, either pledged or instructed for him about 57 votes; lacking only six more to control the caucus. When Mason changed his headquarters to Spring- field, he secured rooms 20-21 in the Leland Hotel, rooms occupied by John A. Logan at the time he was elected United States Senator, when Mason, then a member of the Illinois Legislature, was his campaign manager. By this time, the old machine, well aware of Mason's strength, had succeeded in bringing out other candidates in different parts of the state in hope of breaking Ma- son's strength by use of the old " favorite son" senti- ment. This action on the part of the Chicago leaders, con- firmed the suspicion of Martin B. Madden 's friends and real supporters, that Madden was not being squarely 134 IN REMINISCENCE supported. So he then served notice that he would come out for Mason, if the above proved true. That changed the situation in Mason's favor. Then out came William Lorimer as Cook County's candidate. This turn of affairs strengthened Mason in some places but threatened in others. The first to come out under the "favorite son" movement, was Albert J. Hopkins of Aurora, but when he could not get the support of Col. Charles Page Bryan of Elmhurst, or William Hun- ter of Elgin, the two representatives from his District, nor Senator Hank Evans of Aurora, he decided to with- draw. Senator Isaac Miller Hamilton, was instructed and pledged to Mason, but when W. J. Calhoun came to Springfield, to look over the ground, having been told that Mason could not be elected — Hamilton got cold feet, as Calhoun was from his District. Mr. Calhoun was a warm personal friend of Presi- dent Elect William McKinley, also he was a friend of William E. Mason. Mr. Calhoun was a gentleman of the highest type and impeccable character. Calhoun coming on the scene, caused a lot of un- easiness to Mason and his friends, who were all Mc- Kinley men, and great admirers of Calhoun. The machine bosses then were feeling pretty good, not that they wanted Calhoun, but they thought it would break Mason's ranks, and in the mix up would enable them to land their man. As things looked to me then, something had to be done to hold our ranks. We felt quite sure of our 57 votes, but realized that we had "weak sisters" roaming IN REMINISCENCE 135 around where they were subject to all attacks from our opposition, so what to do? I could see that the only thing to do was to get our own forces together and bind them into an organization wherein they could see their own strength. I got Clark Tisdel, Col. Charles P. Bryan, Senator Bob Fort, and old Tom Needles, an old timer in the Legislature from Washington County, a man whose ex- perience in the Legislature was well known, into a huddle in the room which Col. Bryan and I shared together. There I placed the situation before them, at the same time suggesting a plan that I had discussed with Mr. Mason, a plan of which he approved. The plan was to privately request the presence of all our sure fire supporters in the large outer chamber of Mason's suite that afternoon to hear what Mr. Mason had to say to them. We had six or eight runners to get around and see the fellows, who were mostly in the hotel. In several cases, they were to meet Tom Needles and Col. Bryan in our room, by themselves, before the meeting for instruc- tions. The plan was adopted and worked out to perfection. Some of our inside fellows had arranged to have six or eight reliable supporters enter the door of the big room, one at a time, pass through another and then to Mason's bedroom — out that door into the crowded hall — around the corridor, and then re-enter the big room. The effect was that Mason had over 60 actual members and senators at the meeting. No reporters were allowed to come into the meeting ; so they were waiting in the hall 136 IN REMINISCENCE outside. A lot of our scouts and runners were mixed up with the crowd in the hall, and some of our opponents were sitting on the stairway which faced the door of our meeting, watching and counting all that entered; so the news soon spread that Mason had over sixty votes at his meeting. Tom Needles was door keeper. We were detained for a few minutes waiting for Mr. Mason who was in a private conference in his bedroom. While we were waiting I spoke for a few minutes, so did Tom Needles, and then Mason came in. We had a few cheer leaders there who gave the signal for a grand reception, which was heard plainly by those out in the hall. Then Mason made one of the finest speeches I ever heard and after he got through, old Tom Needles who was now full of enthusiasm spoke and ended by suggesting that every man there hold up both hands as a sign that they would stick until Mason was elected. Not one refused. After the meeting was over it soon got out that Mason only lacked three or four votes of enough to control the caucus. As soon as we could get together after the meeting Mason and I had a conference over the question as to the action of Mr. Calhoun. Mason suggested that I wait a few minutes, as he had sent for Senator Hamilton, Calhoun's District Sena- tor, and had word that he was coming ; so in a few min- utes we three were together and agreed that Hamilton and I arrange for a conference with Mr. Calhoun if Mason could make the appointment — which he did over the phone — Calhoun was in his room on the floor above. IN REMINISCENCE 137 He received us in the only way he was capable of doing, in a most friendly and cordial manner, and I noticed that he evidently had not seen Hamilton very recently. He invited us to sit down and tell just the exact situation, stating that he could trust us both. I started out to tell him the reason for our visit was to learn if possible whether or not he was a candi- date for United States Senator, and if agreeable to him, to bring a message to Mason as to his intention ; adding that we had all fought together for McKinley; and that Mr. Mason was now in a position where he had a right to know who his friends were in this fight, which he now felt he had clearly won. Hamilton tried to interrupt me, and I noticed that Calhoun in a friendly way, suggested he let me deliver my message. I could see that Calhoun had been deceived by reports he had received, by the questions he asked me. After a few questions he put to Hamilton he sat for a few minutes, and then looked up at me and said, "I like the frank way you have come to me and will give you this message to take back to Mr. Mason: You tell him that W. J. Calhoun said that he will never go into that caucus with the blood of Billy Mason on his hands". I jumped up and clasped his hand which he extended to me with that wonderful kindly smile, and thanked him fervently, for I was all worked up, and said as near as I can remember: "How could any one who knows you expect anything different ?" Hamilton tried to qualify the statement but I rushed out, leaving him there, and shot down stairs three steps at a time to Mason's room, and who did I meet 138 IN REMINISCENCE coming out but Lawrence Y. Sherman, a representative whom nobody seemed to know how to count in the line up. Mason asked about the conference with Calhoun. I dramatized the message with the fullness of my feelings. The dear old fellow was quite overcome with gratitude to Calhoun, and his eyes filled with moisture as he said, "I knew Calhoun would not be a party to a plot to as- sassinate me". After we both cooled down a bit, he started laughing from his belt up, and asked me if I saw Sherman going out as I came in. I said I had and asked him for the meaning of the call. Sherman was a testy sort of a fellow — he had told me a few days before that it was " nobody's dam business but mine", as to who he would support for Senator. I found out that he showed the same attitude to our opponents — he was what in Texas would be called a "Maverick". Mason went on then to tell me what had happened. Sherman had called in response to a request from Mason — they were good friends — and Mason started in by telling him why he ought to come out in the open and be for him. He said, "You know, Larry, I have this fight won, but I want you with me". Larry looked Mason square in the eye and asked him if he was sure he had enough votes. Mason said he was. Then Sherman reached for his hat and asked: "Then what in the hell do you want with me?" — and shot out the door. Lawrence J. Sherman cut quite a figure in Illinois politics and was himself elected United States Senator several years after the events described above. IN REMINISCENCE 139 That same evening Madden quit in favor of Mason, but was only able to deliver two votes, but on the strength of the evidence of Madden 's retiring, two or three "band wagon' ' fellows jumped in and the fight was over. The next morning at ten o'clock the caucus met and all the other candidates withdrew. Mason was unani- mously nominated as the Republican Candidate for United States Senator, which was equivalent to election as the Legislature was strongly Republican. From the very start I was looked on as the leader in the Mason movement, and as the campaign proceeded I had been generally regarded as Mason's manager in the final struggle. So I was feeling pretty well myself over the outcome of what (next to the Logan fight) was re- garded as the most sensational fight for United States Senator in the history of Illinois. £Book Sou* Chapter I When the United States Congress decided to have a World's Fair in celebration of the four hundredth anni- versary of the landing of Columbus in 1892, the necessary appropriations were made for financing the federal government's part of the project. Bids were invited from the principal cities of the United States, desiring to compete for the privilege of holding such an Exposi- tion, Congress reserving the right to make the selection. Competition started up immediately. Proposals came in from practically every city of any importance, some of not so much importance. After many competitors had dropped out the choice was reduced to San Francisco, Chicago, St. Louis and New York City. The competition was keen in the final round up. It seemed that the last test was between New York and Chicago, with the former boasting of the advantage. I was in New York at the time the contest was raging in Washington and all I could hear on the subject was that "our Chauncy", Chauncy M. Depew, who was at the head of the New York delegation was sure to get the Fair. The Chicago delegation was fighting "tooth and toe nail", as I saw when I stopped over at Washington on my way back to Chicago. It seemed as if all of Chicago 's most prominent men of business and political importance were there, filled with that Chicago Spirit — bound to win. IN REMINISCENCE 141 I might add there was an abundance of other spirits in evidence, that added much life to. the occasion. I was reminded of an expression of Mathew Stanley Quay on the first White House dinner under the Hayes Adminis- tration, when he caustically stated that "the water flowed like wine" — an old expression in reverse English. Men and women holding governmental positions were working with their respective delegations from their home cities. The eastern newspapers made much fun over the fight of the "Windy City", as they then called Chicago, most of them favoring New York. If there ever was any good reason for calling Chi- cago the Windy City it existed at that time. The two or three days while I was on the ground I did not see any evidence of shortage of wind on the part of the cham- pions of Chicago — nor do I believe there was any time wasted in sleep. When it appeared that Chicago had the votes our New York friends were very sick. They could not believe it and for a time were very bad losers. Now came the time for Chicago to really raise the wind. Ten million dollars was a lot of money in those days ! That much had been pledged but it soon became apparent that more would be required; but the Chicago Spirit never faltered and the World's Columbian Exposi- tion turned out to be the greatest of its kind in American History up to that time, even though it made a very small profit. In deciding on a site for the Fair the com- mittee was fortunate in its selection. The West Side, out in the Garfield Park section, 142 IN REMINISCENCE offered a site near the old race track, with some features, principally railroad facilities that had some attractions. Some of the business interests, more especially hotels and restaurants, wanted the Fair down town on the lake shore — convenient to the center of the city. When announcement was finally made of the decision in favor of Jackson Park and the Midway Plaisance, it gave general satisfaction. On the shore of Lake Michi- gan with a background of natural scenery and the beauti- fully improved park, the site offered all that could be desired. The sandy shore of Lake Michigan with deep water boating facilities, the lakes and lagoons in Jackson Park, all added to attractions of the site. It soon became apparent to the Commissioners that the plans they had prepared for the opening of the Fair could not be accomplished in time to open in 1892, so it was decided to hold the dedication exercises in October of that year and postpone the formal opening until the Spring of 1893. The dedicatory exercises brought a great many dis- tinguished guests to Chicago, most conspicuous of which was the Spanish Infanta — Princess Eulalie. There was one episode connected with the Infanta's presence at the celebration that I believe never saw print. Mrs. Potter Palmer who was Chairman of the Wo- men's Committee, and one of the most popular of leaders in social and civic affairs in Chicago — if not the whole country — gave a special luncheon or dinner for the Prin- cess which the latter was about to ignore on the ground that she " could not think of sitting at table with the wife IN REMINISCENCE 143 of an ' Innkeeper' !". I am not sure that Mrs. Palmer heard the remark. She certainly did not, if those who had charge of entertaining the Infanta could prevent it. I am sure that if Mrs. Palmer did hear of the slighting remark, her good common sense and wonderful tact would enable her to handle the situation without reflec- tion on the shortsightedness of the Princess. The foregoing brings to my mind another incident connected with the Spanish Infanta that was not so well known and talked about as the " Innkeeper incident". In the Fall of 1892 shortly before the dedicatory ex- ercises, the Infanta and her party were making a tour of the Fair Grounds on the Intra-Mural Railroad, an ele- vated structure that was one of the transportation ex- hibits. The party was being conducted by Hobart Chatfield — Chatfield Taylor, a gentleman well known in his time as one of Chicago 's society leaders. A group of newspaper reporters standing on the back platform of the rear car were uninvited guests of the party and were looking for news for their papers. It was a rather gloomy, drizzling day and the grounds were in an incompleted state; full of mud and puddles which made walking very difficult. As the train stopped at a station, far out near the end of the park, a uniformed guard informed the re- porters that he had been requested by Mr. Taylor to notify them that they would not be permitted to proceed further on the trip and must leave the train, thus con- fronting them with a long walk through the mud and rain. Joe McHough, reporter for the Chicago Tribune, 144 IN REMINISCENCE the dean of the group, asked the guard to inform Mr. Taylor that he would like to speak to him. Mr. Taylor came to where the men were waiting and stated the fact that he was responsible for the order and gave the guard a signal to proceed with the trip. As the train pulled out leaving the disconsolate re- porters in a huddle, McHough yelled out somewhat as follows : ' i Hobart Chatfield — Chatfield Taylor, you are a blank such of a such-such — and the hyphen goes!", or words to that effect. This story was given to me by Paul Hull, who was one of the reporters. What makes the story more interesting is the fact that Mr. Taylor called on the Managing Editor of the Chicago Tribune, told him all about it and insisted that McHough should be discharged. The managing editor — "old Van", as he was known by the reporters — laughed over the story and informed Mr. Taylor that the remarks of Mr. McHough were so funny and witty that he "could not fire a man for that ' ', and advised Mr. Taylor that he ought to withdraw his charge, which he promptly did. One day McHough called at the Post Office to see Paul, who was then my secretary, and we went all over the story again. McHough treated it lightly saying, "My Irish was up and I had to let it out." Like many others, I was on the alert to get into some- thing in the way of a concession to make some money out of the Exposition. I could not see much good in the line of the restaurant or lunch room privileges for the reason that competition was so strong and the costs so high, for installation of fixtures, etc. I gave up all IN REMINISCENCE 145 thought of anything in that line. I afterwards found that it was well I did so. There was an eccentric old fellow who was a daily patron of my Madison Lunch Room who had designed an electric boat calculated to meet the requirements for pleasure boat transportation through the lagoons and canals in the fair grounds. General Proctor, as he was called by his friends, had made a beautiful model of such a boat long before the fair commissioners had advertised that some such system of operating boats would be among the concessions that would be let — calling for bids for the same. Mr. E. E. Meeker of Elizabeth, New Jersey, an agent for the sale of the Of eldt System of Naphtha boats, heard of the Proctor boat and came to Chicago to learn what he could about the old fellow and his porposed " Electric' ' boat. Proctor brought him in to see me, stating that what- ever he did in forming a company, "Mr. Coyne must be included". (I had been giving him credit for his meals for some time and he wanted me to have a share in what- ever came out of his plans.) About this time the official plans and specifications were announced and it seemed that a combination of the Proctor and Meeker plans would meet the requirements. At the same time the New York Electrical Naviga- tion Company had a storage battery boat that was being exploited in the east. Charles E. Willard of Chicago had a steamboat that he thought was the only practical exhibit. When the time came to open bids we had formed a combination with the Meeker Company and were pre- 146 IN REMINISCENCE pared to make a bid. The Board of Commissioners gave a hearing to each bidder and after a few days of con- sideration advised each company that before they could make an award each bidder must make two sample boats, one of steam or naphtha and one of electricity; these boats to be in the lagoon at a certain time and placed at the disposal of a committee on boat transportation for a specified time. I believe it was three months. Well, we all entered for the contest. It was a very nice plan for the commissioners, cruising around the lagoons. But they soon found out the difference between the lake and the lagoons as the lake would be rough at times. One of the routes to be covered was outside in Lake Michigan aroung the "Battleship" — a full sized model of a battleship of that day and date, built on a con- crete foundation and furnished as an actual ship of the navy — a very interesting exhibit. The committee finally decided to make two awards, one to the New York Company for the electric boats to operate in the inside waters, and the other to be let jointly to our company and Charles S. Willard for the outside waters. As I could not see much chance to make anything out of such an arrangement I sold my interest to Meeker for about what it cost me, but was obliged to take in payment the boat Isabella, which had cost to build and equip over three thousand dollars. It was now appraised at about one third of that amount which just about equalled my investment. I kept the Isabella during the Summer of 1893, and finally sold it for five hundred dollars. So my experience IN REMINISCENCE 147 in a World's Fair concession was not unlike the most of the rest of the concessionaries. The popcorn concession — the right to pop and sell popcorn — attracted a great many bidders. It was not hard to estimate the value of that con- cession because in those days there was a good profit even after the percentage to the fair was deducted. The vol- ume of business could be fairly estimated by the amount sold at ball games and like attractions. There was one item overlooked however, and that was that you must have the corn to pop if you are going to do any popping. I remember the story, but can not recall the name of a man who saw the wisdom of the above rule, so with commendable foresight he ascertained how much popcorn was raised in those days, and pro- ceeded to buy up the visible supply, besides options on what was not visible and succeeded in making a nice profit before the gates of the fair were opened. He probably had in mind Dean Swift's receipe for cooking a rabbit, "You must first catch your rabbit". Or perhaps he had heard the story of how the largest contract to sell harness, saddles, and other leather goods, to the Union Army during the Civil War was let. I read this story as applied to the Oliver Estate in Pennsylvania. It came out during the early days of the World War and was very interesting. It seems that the U. S. Army advertised for pro- posals to supply an immense lot of such goods, with the usual specifications, requiring bidder to furnish bonds, etc., and time of delivery. Among the principle bidders was a Mr. Oliver of 148 72V REMINISCENCE Pennsylvania, either Pittsburg or Harrisburg, (I have forgotten) but the story I read stated that Mr. Oliver was the father of U. S. Senator Oliver. The most formidable competitor against Mr. Oliver was a firm from New York City, large manufacturers with big backing. When the day came to open the bids, the New York firm was represented by a large delegation, and Mr. Oliver was alone. The New York firm was awarded the contract and commenced to celebrate; as being from New York, they would. Across the hall only a few doors away, Mr. Oliver, feeling blue over his disappointment was trying to take a rest and get some sleep. His thoughts naturally went back home and he thought of the provision he had made for supplies and particularly for leather. Then, as he could hear the New York fellows with Washington friends enjoying their victory, he wondered if they had taken the precautions that he had taken to protect themselves, in event of their obtaining the contract. Then he began to do some figuring. It takes so long to make a hide into leather. It takes so long to raise an animal to a point where its hide is available. The leather on hand is usually so much. After thinking these matters over he lost all desire to sleep and he got busy right then, with the result that by the time the New Yorkers had consumed the visible supply of cham- paign he, through his associates and banker friends, had the visible supply of leather on the run and by noon the next day he had the most of it cornered ! IN REMINISCENCE 149 The story then went on to say that Mr. Oliver made more money out of his leather than the New Yorkers made out of the contract, for they had to see him. In the space I have allotted to the Columbian Exposi- tion it is not my intention to describe the fair in detail but try to bring out some of the high lights that were not generally known at that time. For instance, it was not long after the gates had been opened until it was dis- covered that there was a private gate in operation at the foot of one of the streets that came to a dead end in a secluded part of the enclosure ! The admission, as I remember, was twenty-five cents. When it was discovered, it had been in operation for some time. Eumor said that a young man, relative of one of the commissioners, was the one who had started the racket and that is why there was no publicity on the subject. Neither was there any publicity given to the many wild parties that were pulled off after the gates were closed, when the exhibitors and some of the managers got together with attractions from the "Midway" which was the "Freak" of the whole show. According to many rumors these shows were a great relaxation to the "tired business men" who attended them. How many are there today who remember the "Houseboat on the Sticks"? I believe the craft was planned by Dan Burnham, undoubtedly the best known and most highly regarded of all the architects of that time in Chicago. The craft was really a club house at the foot of Van 150 IN REMINISCENCE Buren Street. It was built after the style of a hull, more particularly the after part, and stood up on piles at least ten feet above the water. It was the quarters of a club made up of World's Fair officials. It was a striking looking sight from Michigan Avenue. For fully a year before the opening of the fair I re- ceived many offers to buy my lunch room. One agent told me that he could get me fifty thousand dollors cash for it easy. I had inquiries from all over the country. I thought myself that I would make that much in one year on account of the fair. What actually happened to my business was as follows : First, my landlord raised the rent three thou- sand a year. Next, the waiters organized and imposed a wage increase of twenty percent. Then after the fair opened a large number of my regular customers would hike off to the fair grounds and get their lunch down there. As far as strangers in the city were concerned, they were mostly located out on the South Side and spent little time or money down town. So, actually, my net profits from the World's Fair were little more than one half of the preceding year. However, there was so much money coming into the city that Chicago scarcely felt the effects of the financial panic of 1892. One of the unusual and most interesting exhibits at the fair was the arrival of three caravels — the Nina, the Pinta, and Santa Maria — exact reproductions of the Co- lumbus discovery fleet. So far as possible they were IN REMINISCENCE 151 outfitted and equipped in Spain and brought over here as part of the Spanish Exhibit. There was also a reproduction of the Viking Ship of Leif Erickson days, that came from Norway. The latter was reconstructed from the wreckage of an old ship of that type that had been buried under sand and water for a century or more. The Viking Ship — I have forgotten her name — was very popular among the Scandinavians of Chicago, in keeping with their love of mother country. One day it was suggested that some of the older Norwegian settlers of Chicago should take the old ship out for a trip on Lake Michigan. The proposal met with favor and a crew was made up, the ship provisioned, the sails unfurled and everything made ready for a short trip the first fair day. When the time came for sailing, the crew and invited guests were all on hand including reporters from the daily papers. I remember only a few of those who were to man the ship. Those few were S. T. Gunderson, John Anderson, Doctor Sandberg and Mr. Haugan. Those are the only names I can now recall. By some good luck they managed to get the ship out of the harbor, beyond the breakwater and then com- menced a lot of difficulties in trying to tack against the wind and come about as required. It was then discovered that there was not a sailor aboard ! All of the crew were old time seamen but were all captains — ' ' Captains All ' \ All of this furnished a lot of fun for the newspaper scribes, and as the vessel commenced to roll and wabble 152 IN REMINISCENCE about, a lot of food for the fishes. Finally, a tug boat had to go out and haul them in. The Cold Storage Fire No account of the World's Columbian Exposition is complete without an account of the holocaust of the Cold Storage Fire as evidenced by the following headlines : BAPTISM OF FIRE AND BLOOD IN A FUNERAL PYRE FIREMEN CREMATED IN THE COLD STORAGE BUILDING IMPRISONED BY FLAMES DESPARATE MEN LEAP FROM ONE DEATH TO ANOTHER BELOW ACTS OF HEROIC BRAVERY GALLANT FELLOWS FACE DANGER TO AID WOUNDED COMPANIONS HORROR WITNESSED BY MANY (Chicago daily papers of July 11th, 1893.) Amidst all thoughts of the beauty of the architecture and construction of buildings in the World's Columbian Exposition of 1893 there was always in the minds of the Commissioners the haunting fear of fire. These fears grew into a terrible realization — when at 1:30 in the afternoon of July 10th, the alarm went out that the Cold Storage building was on fire. In a surprisingly short time practically all fire ap- paratus of the ctiy were on hand to aid the company stationed in the Exposition grounds. Apparently the fire was in the shaft of the Cupola in the center of the building about 30 feet above the roof and seemed to be of easy access and not a difficult fire to IN REMINISCENCE 153 handle. From the roof to the ground was about 75 feet. Ladders were placed and lines of hose were drawn up by ropes that were then dropped over the sides for life lines, attached to the edges of the roof for fire escapes if needed. A large number of men were on the roof and some were on the Cupola with hose playing at a rate that seemed to promise success when the whole roof burst into flames from below — probably caused by the explosion of the ammonia tanks. In a moment there were men en- veloped in flames making their way to ladders and ropes. One man jumped to the ground and was picked up a broken bleeding mass. With all means of escape cut off 12 men were imprisoned on the Cupola, surrounded by flames. Many of their fellows on the roof tried to assist them and were badly burned before they sought safety for themselves. Those 12 men above, when they saw there was no hope, made their choice and jumped into the firey furnace below them, some clasping hands of their fellows as they went to a quicker death. All of this took place before the eyes of more than twenty thousand people, unable to lend a hand at rescue. Many men and women prayed aloud, many women fainted at the sight and were carried off to the hospital on the grounds. Mrs Coyne and her mother had just entered the fair grounds and were so appalled at the sight that they turned away and when they reached home were almost in a state of collapse. There were soldiers in the crowd who had faced death in battles, whose features were blanched at the terrible spectacle before them. After it was all over it 154 IN REMINISCENCE was found that 14 men were dead and 24 in the hospital seriously injured. The published list of the dead was as follows : Captain James Fitzpatrick, Lieutenant Freeman, Fireman Phillip B. Breen, Lieutenant Moulter, Fireman John McBride, Fireman William Deming, Captain James Garvey, Lieutenant Charles Purvis, Lieutenant John Smith, Fireman Burton B. Page, Fireman Paul Schroe- der, unknown line man, initials on belt M. H. or H. W. There were also 2 Columbian Guards killed whose names were not known. Much has been written in poetry and song in praise of the men who go down to the sea in ships and to the glorious deeds of soldiers in battle, but it is only at times such as marked the Cold Storage fire, the Stock Yards fire, January 2, 1912, where the gallant Fire Marshall James Horan and nearly a score of others were killed or disabled, not to mention other occasions, that we think of the heroic deeds of our firemen and police who are ever close to us and ready at any hour or minute to face death in protecting our lives or our property. Chapter II From the first term of Carter H. Harrison, Senior, to the last term of William Hale Thompson I had more or less close acquaintance with all the Mayors of Chicago — either in a business or political way. As I now recall the different issues that came up during the many campaigns of city elections, I am re- minded of a few outstanding incidents that will amuse some of the older readers and reveal to the younger generation phases of political activities unknown to them in the history of Chicago. The most interesting story is that of the election by which Hemstead Washbourne became Mayor. There were four candidates in the field; two Republicans and two Democrats. The Democrats were Dewitt C. Cregier and Carter Harrison, Sr. The Eepublicans were the regular nominee, Hemstead Washbourne, and the Inde- pendent Republican, Elmer Washburn. There were splits in both parties but it did not all show on the surface. When election day came it looked to some of the faithful followers of democracy that their candidate was not run- ning as strong as the man they did not want. The other fellow seemed to be running ahead, much to their dissatis- faction. So they decided on a line of action by which they hoped to get their man in. In those days counting the votes had much to do with deciding of results of elections; even at times as much so as the "counting" in the Dempsey-Tunney fight. In the larger democratic wards where the democrats 156 IN REMINISCENCE had control, it was not a difficult matter to manipulate the returns, so orders went out from headquarters to count some of the votes for the man to whom they were op- posed for Elmer Washburn, who seemed to be low man in the race with small chance of winning. The orders went out all right, but the faithful workers made a mistake and threw those votes to Hem- stead Washbourne and the effect was the election of ' 'Hemp ' ' whom it was thought had no chance. Hemstead accepted the result and was declared elected Mayor for two years. That was the term in those days. Some years afterwards the law was changed to four years. Fred A. Busse was the first Mayor under the new law. Another funny election was held a few years later when a prominent West Side banker, a Democrat, was nominated for Mayor. The candidate was not so popular among a certain few of the democratic leaders, but he had money and a yearning ambition to be Mayor of Chicago. He was a man of striking appearance, with whiskers that were a compromise between those of Uncle Sam and James Hamilton Lewis. Being a firm believer in advertising and a strong ad- vocate of plenty of lithographs, he had a large number printed and hung profusely in saloon windows for weeks before the election; everywhere — "West Side, South Side, and all around the town". I was at the conference of Republican leaders during the campaign, when reports were called for as to how things were going when Dexter Bourke, a character from one of the River Wards, reported that the lithographs of IN REMINISCENCE 157 the candidate were not doing any good because "every- body thought they were Bock Beer signs". That, of course, brought out a good laugh. Whether the litho- graphs were the cause or not he made a poor candidate and was defeated. There was Carter H. Harrison, Sr., Dewitt C. Creigier, John P. Hopkins, George B. Swift, John A. Roach, Carter H. Harrison, Jr., Hempstead Washbourne, Judge Edward Dunn, Fred A. Busse, William Hale Thompson and Edward Kelly. Of the above named, Swift, Roach, Washbourne, Busse and Thompson were Republicans, making five Republicans and six Democrats. Chapter III John Bonfield was the first Chief of Police with whom I became personally acquainted. I believe he was the best ; particularly on account of the way he handled the Anarchist situation. He was the right man, in the right place, at the right time. He was a terror to the Anarchists and very unpopular among their pink parlor sympathizers. Nor did he have any use for a man on his force who was lazy or shifty in the perform- ance of his duties. He was a strict disciplinarian which gained for him the loyalty of those who were conscien- tious in the performance of their duties and the hatred of those who were not. The detective force under Bonfield did some excel- lent work, particularly Captain Schaack and his asso- ciates. Major McClaugery, appointed by Mayor Washburn was another chief with whom I became personally ac- quainted, but he did not like the position any too well, so when he was offered the position of Warden of the Joliet Penitentiary he gladly accepted it and made a splendid record. For fifteen years or more I was in a position to know a lot of what was going on in the police quarters. As re- ferred to in one of the preceding pages, my North State restaurant brought me in contact with the jail and court house attaches and my down town lunch room on Madison Street brought me close to the City Hall and Central Police Headquarters. In mentioning names of those I IN REMINISCENCE 159 knew personally and well, I am not intentionally slight- ing others whom I did not know so well. There is one incident that comes to my mind which I shall mention because it is of the character that makes good detective stories. (I also knew quite well Chief Marsh and Kipply.) After seemingly, the Anarchist case and the excitement connected therewith had died down, there came to Central Headquarters a report that there was a plot on foot to Mow up the City Hall and Police Station at one fell swoop. After a preliminary investigation, Phil Miller was assigned to the case to run it down. Miller was a plain clothes detective of considerable experience and a good officer. He and his partner Mike Murtha used to come to the Madison Street place for lunch daily unless they were busy in some other locality. One day I noticed that Murtha had been lunching alone for some little time so I asked him what had be- come of Miller. Murtha answered in a knowing sort of a way, "he has gone duck hunting". Phil was a great man for hunting and often brought me a brace of ducks, for he was a good shot and always got the limit. I thought for a moment and then said, "that is not good, Murtha, this is not the season for ducks, you better pick a better one than that". He laughed and said, "you are too smart, you got one on me this time. Phil will be back in a few days ". I then knew he was out on a case. About a couple of months or more after the fore- going conversation, Phil and Murtha came in one evening just as we were closing up. Miller had a beard and 160 IN REMINISCENCE looked tough. He had just brought in his man and as he put it, he had to have some of Coyne's coffee before shaving and cleaning up. Here is the story! After Miller had been assigned to the case he went down to his old home in Indiana where he spent some time letting his hair and whiskers grow and otherwise getting himself ready for the work in hand. He knew where his man was working in a machine shop and managed through headquarters to secure a job there. He located his man and got acquainted with him in a casual sort of way and gradually struck up a sort of friendship over the subject of Social- ism and Anarchy, and made a trip one Sunday out to Waldheim Cemetery where the Haymarket Anarchists were buried. Phil had hopes of meeting some of his pal 's associates but was disappointed. After that Miller com- menced to complain about his boarding place and was invited to share the room of his friend, an invitation that he was slow to accept, until he found that it would be a saving to both of them. After Miller had accpeted the invitation and agreed to move in he found that the plan provided for a sharing of the bed as well as the room. This meant a closer association than he had figured on but agreed to the plan. They had not been bed-fellows for very many nights until the Anarchist began to reveal some of his plans and showed Miller some bombs and dynamite sticks that he had hidden under a loose board in the floor; then he showed him how to make bombs and use them. He also IN REMINISCENCE 161 had a lot of literature in foreign languages that Miller could not read. Finally, Miller was convinced that his bed-fellow was a "Lone Wolf ", and not a party in any organized plan. Headquarters, being in touch with Miller, advised him to bring the fellow in. On several occasions the two had gone down town together for supper so there was no difficulty in arranging to go down there one evening at a time that headquarters would be expecting them. On their way to supper Phil suggested they take a walk through the City Hall and then to the door of Police Headquarters where Phil opened the door and shoved the fellow in where they were waiting for him. Then came the big scene. The fellow was like a wild man until he had been subdued enough to enable him to say that he wished he had a bomb — and then they would "all go up together"! I do not recollect what sentence was given him, but he got enough, for after a raid that was made on his room there was found enough evidence to cause him to confess. He admitted that he had intended to as- sassinate Judge Gary, States Attorney Grinnell and Chief of Police Bonfield. Chapter IV I believe the Chicago Fire Department was as near perfect under the proficiency of Fire Chief Dennis Sweeny as any such organization could possibly be. I doubt if there was any such loyalty to their Chief as that which existed among his men. The fire inurance companies, I was told, gave the Chicago fire fighting force the highest rating in efficiency. In addition to the fire fighting force, there was the Fire Insurance Patrol under the management of Captain Ben Bullwinkle, whose duty it was to reach the fire ahead of the fire engines to cover up goods, to protect them from water damage and reduce the loss through salvage to the insurance companies. It was a treat to any one passing the Insurance Pa- trol house on Monroe Street near La Salle, at the time an alarm was coming in, to see the speed with which the horses were attached to the wagon, the men in their seats pulling on their boots with trousers attached, as the wagon sped into the street on the way to the fire. If my memory is right the record time was three and one-half seconds from the sound of the alarm gong until the wagon was on the street. That record was made when the men were in their beds on the second floor. It was one jump from the bed to the brass poles through the floor over their respective seats in the wagon. The horses stood in open stalls on each side of the wagon, bridled and bitted, there were always three men on watch who snapped the collars, at- IN REMINISCENCE 163 tached to the harness which was suspended over the pole of the wagon. The horses were trained to jump to their places at first sound of the gong. It was as good as a circus to see Captain Bullwinkle training new horses for this service. He selected lighter and more rangy horses than were used for the engines and trucks in the fire department. He would select a likely looking pair and hitch up one with a horse already broken. He would place them in their respective stalls, then he would have a lead halter on the new recruit with the lead strap in the hands of one of the men. He would have two men behind the new horse with whips so when he pushed the alarm button the new horse would be scared and led to his position at the wagon pole, the harness snaps clicked, the men in the wagon and the team would be in the street before the new horse knew what it was all about. It took only a few such experiences to break a horse in. Chapter V In the foregoing pages referring to "Gamblers Alley' ' I failed to mention the restaurant operated by "Nick and Louie" in connection with the "round bar", located in the half basement, corner of La Salle Street an the alley. This place was afterwards known as Lan- sing and McGarigles. The junior partner created con- siderable excitement in Chicago at the time of his sensa- tional escape from Sheriff Canute R. Matson. There had been startling disclosures made public by the investigators of the Citizens Association of the Cook County Board of Commissioners, in which a number of the commissioners were charged with wholesale graft in the expenditures of the people's money, particularly in the management of the Cook County Hospital. In addi- tion to indictment of several of the commissioners, McGarigle, warden of the Cook County Hospital was under arrest and held in the county jail awaiting trial for conspiracy in the case. It had been an old custom prior to those days to allow prisoners not under sentence to visit their homes accompanied by the Sheriff, who under the law was re- sponsible under his bond for the return of the prisoner so favored. Sheriff Matson, being a friend of McGarigle of many years standing, with a full knowledge of his excellent home and family was easily persuaded that there would be no risk involved if he consented to let McGarigle visit his home for an hour or so. McGarigle promised that he IN REMINISCENCE 165 would not attempt to escape and the Sheriff could ac- company him. The plea of McGarigle was that he might have a "short visit with his family, a decent bath and a change of clothing". Matson took him at his word, ordered a carriage and the two rode to the prisoner 's home, where they had some refreshments and after a short time McGarigle proceeded to the bathroom, leaving the Sheriff in the sitting room with Mrs. McGarigle. After what seemed to be sufficient time Mrs. McGarigle knocked at the door of the bathroom and found it locked. Matson crashed the door, found the room empty and the prisoner gone. An open window told the story. Sheriff Matson never believed that Mrs. McGarigle was a party to the plot. No time was lost by the Sheriff in sending out the alarm and, of course, there was great excitement. Extra papers were run out as soon as the presses could be run and the police got busy. For a day or two there was no clue to the mystery, until a fisherman told of a schooner yacht called the Blake, having anchored close to shore off Lincoln Park the night of the escape and left during the night. Matson regarded this of importance, chartered fast boats from Milwaukee, St. Joseph, Michigan and other points, where he sent officers with warrants to arrest the fugitive if found. There was no wireless or radio service in those days. The first direct trace came through a dispatch from a north Michigan city to the effect that a vessel had 166 IN REMINISCENCE sighted the Blake which was probably making her way to Canada. On receipt of this news Matson sent officers to the farthest points north by railroad and telegraphed ahead for speed boats to permit his men to join in the chase. As I remember the story from Matson, one of his boats nearly caught up with the Blake, but not quite, as she crossed the line into Canadian waters. There are a lot of details connected with the case of McGarigle's escape which I shall not include in this story, except the part in which I helped to put Matson on his feet after I became Postmaster of Chicago. As Sheriff of Cook County he was responsible for the expenses incurred, all of which he paid out of his own pocket and some assistance from friends — and the whole affair left him flat broke. Being a Civil War veteran and a former post office employee he was eligible for reappointment, which I brought about through Civil Service rules, and had him reinstated in the Money Order Division. Chapter VI Cleveland's second nomination was not an exposition of music and flowers. A great " Wigwam' ' was erected on the lake front in Chicago for the special purpose of holding the Demo- cratic Convention. It occupied the site about where the Field Museum now stands, (but somewhat closer to Michigan Avenue). Cleveland did not have that political personality or magnetism that endeared him to the masses. His oppon- ents were aware of this and most of the democratic leaders were in much doubt as to his availability as a candidate. David B. Hill made himself famous in his opposition by his spectacular speech which he started out with "I am a Democrat". Burke Cochran (with whom I after- wards became well acquainted when he was in Congress) little known outside of New York at the time, rose into national prominence as the result of his speech and rich tone of voice. Well, Cleveland was nominated. He had finished his first term as President as unpopular as Harrison was at the closing of his term. The Minneapolis Convention of Postmasters, United States Marshalls and Collectors of Internal Revenue, had renominated Harrison when the Convention was clamoring for James G. Blaine, whom Cleveland had defeated in 1884. But Blaine had written that " February letter" in which he stated positively he would not be a candidate again ; so here was the situation. 168 IN REMINISCENCE Both parties had candidates not popular with the masses, both nominated under conditions that caused many of the leaders of both parties to be doubtful of results. I have always believed in the American Spirit of fair play. I thought at the time when the Campaign of 1892 was going on that there were enough people aware of the unfair treatment of Blaine in 1888 to want to see him given another chance and I believe that if he had not written that " February letter' ' the Minneapolis Con- vention would have stampeded for him; and there were plenty of Democrats who would have voted for Blaine in preference to Cleveland. In this connection there is liable to be some looking backward in the Campaign of 1936 and a thorough con- sideration of that much used and little understood Latin phrase "Caveat Emptor". In this case let the leaders of both parties beware. It was in 1892 that I really became active in state and national politics. I had taken an active part in the campaign of George B. Swift when he first ran for Mayor at the special elec- tion made necessary by the death of Mayor Carter H. Harrison at the hands of an assassin in the home of the Mayor on Ashland Boulevard, while he was at dinner. I shall not mention the name of the assassin, as it is not my policy to mention the names of many persons convicted of criminal acts of former times, as I do not wish to reawaken the sorrows of those relatives who have forgotten or those who were not born or were too young to know at the time. In passing on this subject I might inject the fact that IN REMINISCENCE 169 at the time of the murder I was presiding as Chairman of a meeting of the 12th Ward Bepublican Club in a hall two blocks away when Alderman Campbell walked to the platform and whispered to me that Mayor Harrison had just been shot to death in his home while eating dinner. I announced the fact to the meeting with the sug- gestion that a motion to adjourn would be in order. The motion was made, unanimously adopted, and we all pro- ceeded to the Harrison residence. The street was already packed with people, until in a few minutes it was impassable and vehicles were cut out. In spite of political factionalism, the people of Chi- cago had a sincere regard for Mayor Harrison as was manifested by his last election. His splendid personality and high intellectuality made him the best choice for " World Fair Mayor". Many Republicans voted for him. Chapter VII I am reminded of the visit to Chicago by Nansen, who had made a higher north point of the compass than any other explorer up to that time. I believe it was late in 1894, or early '95 that Nansen came to Chicago and was the guest of a large number of his countrymen who gave a banquet in the Auditorium Hotel in his honor. Nansen, after former trips to the Artie regions wherein he had studied winds, tides and currents at different seasons, conceived a new and novel plan of crossing the top of the world. His idea was to build a strong ship of heavy timbers, pointed at both ends, and the hull so constructed that when caught in the ice floes, instead of being crushed the ship would be lifted up and then would float with the tide to and across the North Pole regions; a tide movement which his personal observation and research had con- vinced him took place at certain seasons of the year, when the drift was in that direction. At first the idea was scoffed at, but after study of the plan by the scientific men of his country, his plan was de- clared feasible, after which there was little difficulty in raising the necessary funds for the expedition according to his plans. Under Nansen's supervision, the ship was built and named the "Fram", meaning "forward" in the language of his country. Two-thirds of the fund was contributed IN REMINISCENCE 171 by parliament and King Oscar ; the balance through pri- vate subscription. The expedition sailed in June 1893 and was frozen in at 84 degrees north latitude. From that point Nansen and his mate Johanson left the ship with a small boat that they could drag across the ice when necessary. The boat was well provisioned and provided with a sail to be used when in open water. They proceeded farther North to 86-14 ; the farthest point, nearest the Pole ever reached by man up to that time. There was one incident in that trip that came very near ending in a tragedy. At the banquet table, in his speech, Nansen told us of this incident and gave it in more detail to a small party down stairs in the grill room of the hotel after the banquet. From what recollection I have of the story and his talk down stairs I believe I can see all the high lights of the story as it was told by Nansen. After they left the ship, they came to open water where they proceeded under sail until they came to more ice, and landed on a floating berg that had a sloping edge to the water so they pulled the boat up as they thought securely. There was a high elevation some little distance from the water from which they expected to take some obser- vations. From here on I shall try to let Nansen tell the story. "As we started out and had not gone far, I looked back and saw the boat was adrift." It seems that there was a slight sinking in the berg and the boat had slipped 172 IN REMINISCENCE off and was dancing away on the light breeze that was blowing away from us. We both took in the situation and in a jiffy I was on the way to the edge of the berg. I threw off my heavier outer clothing and plunged in to the sea after the boat, which was getting farther away every second. "I was a very strong swimmer and felt sure I could make it. At the same time, I could not help thinking of what would happen if I failed. "As I turned over for a breath of air, I saw Johan- son running up and down like a crazy man. Then I thought of what his end would be if I did not catch that boat. There was no chance for him to get help from the ship which was far away. "Well, I kept on and finally I saw I was gaining and the boat seemed to be stationary. Everything we had was in that boat; these thoughts seemed to give me strength and fresh wind. "I finally got within reach of her, I caught hold of her side and worked back to the stern so as to get in with- out capsizing her. Then I was so nearly spent that I had to rest for a moment but not too long, to get a leg over the edge, for it did not take long for that water to freeze on my clothing when out of the sea. I finally made it, grabbed up an oar and worked with all my might to get back to shore. I had to or I would have frozen to death. "When I got to where Johanson was, I found him in as near hysterics as it was possible for any man to be. It did not take long for him to see my condition. He got out the spirit stove and a can of soup, a lot of furs and blankets which he piled under and over me while the soup IN REMINISCENCE 173 was getting ready, then he gave me all there was of it and piled on more blankets. I was so far gone that I dozed off* into a sonnd sleep." It should be remembered that this all took place in weather away below zero. When he woke up his clothes were dry. As I judged Nansen I thought he must have been made for that occasion. He had a long head with jaw bones like a horse and a chin that looked as if it had been made of cast iron. Well they proceeded on their way until they reached a point on Franz Joseph Land and got in touch with the world. They did not cross the pole but had made a record. The Fram in due time floated loose and got home safely. Chapter VIII Along about 1884 or '85 there was quite an effort made to build up a sort of a Coney Island for Chicago at Cheltenham Beach, a few miles south of Jackson Park. The promoters had visions of a beach resort for a sum- mer playground and bathing resort patterned after Coney Island. The first effort to get a crowd out there on a Sunday was to prepare a regular "Clam Bake", according to the formula of eastern resorts. They also had sausages broiled over charcoal fires and beer galore. My impression now is that it was the nearest avail- able point outside the dry limit of Hyde Park. It was intended to run steamboats out there from the city. I drove out with a friend from the West Side and was nearly half of the day getting there. We drove out Stony Island Avenue, a name that gave the right flavor to the plans of the promoters. I, of course, while living in New Jersey, had been many times to old Coney and had my friend all keyed up to great expectations for the day. When we finally reached the place, there was little to be seen except a lot of maps of what it would look like when completed. Lots were plotted out for business blocks as well as for residential purposes. There was a sort of a club house and office where the plans were on exhibition with plenty of salesmen to ex- plain. We were much disappointed and left after the IN REMINISCENCE 175 clam bake, which was very good, but never went back there. I believe the promoters met with little success. There was another spasmodic attempt to revive an interest in the project when the Columbian Exposition was located at Jackson Park. Chapter IX While I was growing up with Chicago, I had one ex- perience out of which I derived a lot of satisfaction and a small pecuniary profit. One morning when I was unloading a hamper of bread and rolls from my wagon to Schlenkers Hotel on State Street, I bumped into one of two men passing by on the sidewalk. I turned to apologize and noticed that one of the men looked at me as if he thought he knew me ; then I had a feeling that I knew him. As the two passed on their way, I saw the other man had turned for a look at me. All of a sudden the thought came to me — that is Harry Tichenor, a young man from Orange, New Jersey. They had not gone so far but what they could hear me, so I yelled, " Hello Tich!". Both turned and came back to where I stood, then I saw I was not mistaken. Tichenor said, "It seems to me I have known you somewhere, either out west or down east. Where was it 1 ' ' I answered, "It was down in East Orange, New Jersey. My name is Coyne.' ' "What? You are not George Coyne 1 ' ' "No, I am his brother, Fred, who nearly got in a fight with you at a ball game between the Orange and East Orange teams five or six years ago and I guess my brother saved me from a licking. ' ' "Well, I don't remember that," said Tichenor, "but what are you doing here?" He looked at the hamper then at the wagon and saw my name on it. "Well, I'll be darned." He then introduced me to his friend, Mr. Barber. They did not look prosperous, somehow. Tiche- IN REMINISCENCE 177 nor's father who lived in Orange was a very rich man. Harry cut a pretty broad path down there. He was con- sidered swell because he had been to Princeton College. Well, I said I am going to deliver this bread and then we can go in the hotel and have a talk. Tichenor took a look at the hamper and said, "Char- ley that is too much for one man to handle, take hold and we will carry it in". So they picked it up and carried it through the restaurant. After I had received my pay I said, "Wait until I get my coat out of the wagon and we will sit down and have some coffee. And if you don't mind I will have my breakfast, ' ' explaining that I always had my coffee and rolls early, with breakfast at nine or ten o'clock. They looked at each other, then I said hastily "Maybe you haven't had breakfast and would join me in something to eat!" Tichenor looked at Bar- ber and said, "Have we had breakfast Charley?" Charley grinned and answered, "I believe not, you know we were late getting up this morning." I saw through it all then, they were actually broke. They were on the way to the telegraph office to wire Harry's father for some money, having failed to find a friend of Barber's of whom they expected to borrow enough to carry them through the emergency. Well, we sat down to breakfast and did they eat? Of course, I was glad when old John Schlenker saw us eating, with the check on me. When he stopped at our table I asked him to take a chair and join us in some coffee. I told him that my friends had just come back from Colorado after a run of hard luck and were looking for something to do, and asked him if he did not want a clerk for his hotel, as 178 IN REMINISCENCE Tichenor had served in that capacity in Denver for a few months, which was true. Schlenker looked at Harry and saw there was some class to him but said he had no vacancy at the time but might have one in a week or so and suggested that Tichenor come in a few days later and he would have a talk with him. We sat and drank more coffee and talked over our experiences, Harry doing most of the talking. He was bright, good looking and full of fun. They told me of some of their doings in the west. Tichenor had done some writing for news papers in the east, so had little trouble in finding work of that kind out west, until the bottom dropped out of everything. It was then he met Barber. Barber seemed to be a decent sort of fellow — about thirty-five or there abouts and Tichenor about twenty-eight. Well to go on with the story, Harry said he would like to ride with me over my bread route the next day so we could have a good talk about Orange and East Orange. Charley said he had a friend out at the stock yards and would spend the day out there trying to find him. I said, "you fellows must be flat broke. Can I help you out with a little cash?" Tich looked at Barber for a moment and asked, "don't you think if we had five dol- lars each for a few days we could pull through ! ' ' Barber answered, "we surely could." I thought Tichenor 's eyes softened as he said, "in that case I would not be obliged to wire Dad, which I would like to avoid." I drew out two five dollar bills, handed one to each saying, "I am letting you have this as a loan for old times sake. I know you will pay it back when you can. ' ' IN REMINISCENCE 179 We got up from the table and walked out. As we were passing out old Schlenker told Harry to "come in day-after-tomorrow, and we will have a talk." Harry full of life, answered, "you bet I will". Harry then left me until the next morning, when he met me at Kace Brothers Oyster House on Madison Street, where I de- livered bread about eight o 'clock. We spent the day together, he telling a lot of funny jokes about their ups and downs in the wild west as well as his wild days in the ' ' effete east " as he called it. The next day following he met me at Schlenker s, beaming over with good news. He said the night man who was a combination of night clerk, porter and roust- about, had been promoted to day clerk and Schlenker offered him the night job at nothing per week with room and board. I asked him if he was going to take it. "Take it? I took it and will start in tomorrow night." He said the man who held the position told him that there were a few tips but no graft in the job. A few days later Barber was working as bar-tender for his old friend Parson Davies in a combination restaurant and bar. He sent me word through Harry that he wanted me to call and meet the boss as he had spoken to him about the bread trade. I did so and secured a pretty good customer. That surely was "bread cast upon the waters" re- turning in a few days. A week or so later Charley paid me the five dollars I had loaned him and offered to pay Harry's five which I refused to accept, stating that I knew Harry would pay as soon as he could. After about a week in his new job, I saw Harry any 180 IN REMINISCENCE asked him if he was making anything. Oh yes, said he, "I am making fires in the rooms, every night since the cold spell and as far as tips are concerned I have not made enough to 'put in tea'. Yet I have made something else. I have made the acquaintance of a fine fellow who works for McClurg & Co. and he thinks he can horn me in there for a job more in my line ; but I am going to hang on to this room and board job until I am sure of the other." Tichenor got the job with McClurg & Co. and while over in Cassoplis, Michigan on a business trip he found that the town folks were interested over the fact that there was a prize of one hundred and fifty dollars to whomsoever could write the best lines to be carved in stone and placed over the entrance of a new cemetery. Harry got busy and submitted his effort in time for the committe to pass on it. There were many contestants but the committe selected his and sent him the check. All of this took place only a few months after our meeting on State Street. When Harry paid me the five dollars he gave me a nice box of fifty cigars. A short time after winning that prize, Harry went back to Orange, New Jersey and I never heard from him again. At nearly the same time Barber went again to the gold fields out west and I never heard from him until about twelve years after — 1898. I was sitting in my office as Collector of Internal Revenue when he walked in on me. At first I did not recognize him. After mutual friendly greetings I asked where in the thunder he had been. His answer was, "its a long story that I will tell you later, but first tell me what became of Tichenor V IN REMINISCENCE 181 I laughed and said, ' ' that is what I was going to ask you". "Well all I know", said Barber, "is that he went back home to his father and expected to join him in run- ning the business. He decided in a day in response to a telegram, and took the train that night and I have never heard from him since. ' ' " Now ' ', said Barber, ' ' I have a lot to tell you — first I want to lighten my load a bit. ' ' He pulled a moose skin bag out of his pocket and poured out a lot of gold nuggets, I should say about a half a cup full, pure gold nuggets! He had just returned from Alaska and the Klondike Gold Field. The nuggets were of dif- ferent sizes, varying in size and shape. Some were flat like buttons and others had the shape of dogs ' teeth ; none were larger than a sparrow egg. Barber said they were some he had picked up from traders to bring to Chicago for gifts to old friends and he was giving me first choice. I looked at him and said, "Why this is money Char- ley". "Never mind about that", he said. He then pro- ceeded to pick out an assortment. One dog tooth shaped one would make a stick pin. Four flat ones he pushed aside and said, "These could be made into link cuff but- tons, and here are four little flat ones for shirt studs". So I took them after he agreed to go out to lunch with me. His story was most interesting. He had gone up there and made a contact with the steamship and other interests owned by Protus B. Weare of Chicago, had made a lot of money and was going back to Alaska in a few days. He said he was anxious to get in touch with Harry and have him come up there but I learned after- wards that he had not been successful. I never heard from Barber or Tichenor after that day. Chapter X In the archives of the Chicago Fellowship Club the most interesting exhibit should be the record of the "Harvest Festival" dinner of September 9, 1894. On that occasion former Governor Eichard Oglesby delivered his famous speech on the "Royal Corn". Uncle Dick, as he was affectionately called, was held in high esteem by the people of Illinois. He was one of the invited guests at the dinner, as was also the actor, Joseph Jefferson, famous for his acting "Rip Van Winkle", a part which his father before him had made famous. The dinner was held in Kinsley s Restaurant, at that time on Adams Street. The banquet hall was decorated with stalks and yellow ears of corn, autumn leaves, large pumpkins, sheaves of golden wheat, etc. to give color to the occasion. The members and guests donned straw hats and jumpers before entering the hall to carry out the spirit of a real harvest festival. Franklin H. Head was the toast-master for the eve- ning. Oglesby and Jefferson sat in adjoining seats during the dinner, as I was told, without Jefferson's knowledge that he sat beside a boyhood friend of many years before, until Oglesby referred to it in his speech. There were plenty of good things to eat and no lack of potable accompaniments. After the feast was over came the "flow of soul". The toastmaster announced that the one toast of the eve- ning would be, "What I know about farming" and he IN REMINISCENCE 183 would call on for response any one that suited his fancy. After many happy and humorous responses as the evening went on, the toastmaster called on " Uncle Dick Oglesby", from the corn belt of Illinois. When the old Governor arose to respond, he showed signs of emotion or embarrassment that at first were mis- understood by some of those present. He seemed to lack words as he hesitated, looking around at the decorations. Finally his gaze rested on Jefferson for a moment, then again on the corn. Some of his friends really thought that too much "Corn" was the cause of his embarrass- ment and regretted for a moment that he had been called upon. Then he started out. "The Corn", the "Royal Corn", then followed with a flow of words that amazed his hearers as they realized that they were listening to the greatest oration they had ever heard on the subject of the "Royal Corn". After eulogizing the corn, he told about his early life, describing how at one time when a boy he was traveling over the prairies of Illinois with his father and how they fell in with a caravan of players; how they had joined forces and traveled together for a number of days ; how he met a boy of about his own age — the son of one of the players ; how they would go out shooting prairie chickens together, swapping stories of their earlier childhood. Then the old Governor in a burst of feeling lifted his eyes Heavenward and ex- claimed, "My God! if I could live again that time when to me half of the world was good and the other half unknown." He then stepped to the side of Mr. Jefferson, placing his hand upon his shoulder and exclaimed, ' ' This 184 IN REMINISCENCE was that boy, the son of the older Joseph Jefferson". This brought his listeners to their feet with an ovation, the like of which had no equal in the opinion of those present. Jefferson then for the first time realized that Oglesby was the boy with whom he had met on the prairie of Illinois some sixty years before. After the banquet the guests left their seats and crowded around the two in a reception. I was not one of those present but had many friends who were there, from whom I heard the story about as I have told it. For a year or more I was a member of a sort of Casual Sunday Morning Breakfast Club, with a contin- gent membership of eight or ten congenial souls who met of a Sunday for breakfast that usually lasted from 11 o 'clock a. m. to most any time in the afternoon. I cannot now recall the names of all of the members, but those always present, never less than a half a dozen, were about as follows : Volney W. Foster, President of the Union League Club; Major Jenny, one of the most prominent architects of Chicago; Professor Eogers, of the Northwestern University at Evanston; Major Jenny's partner, Mr. Mundie; Colonel Frank Eiddle, attorney-at-law ; Mr. Coen, (whose initials I cannot re- call) an official of the Chicago-Edison Co.; and the writer of these reminiscences. The last breakfast we had together was at the home of Mr. Foster. It started at eleven o 'clock in the dining room, with champagne cocktails in frosted glasses and ended in the famous " Evanston Back Lot" in a log cabin IN REMINISCENCE 185 in the rear of the Foster home. There we finished with coffee and cognac. During the discussions between courses the Oglesby speech at the Fellowship Club dinner was brought to mind and there followed a most interesting story of the event by Mr. Foster. It seems there were no reporters or shorthand writers at the dinner, so it seemed (to the regret of all present) that the speech and the Jefferson episode were lost to the public. There were however, several newspaper publishers present and they went into a huddle to try to decide what to do. After an exchange of views it was decided to appoint a committee which met the following day to work out a plan of restoring as near as possible the events of that memorable banquet. Mr. Foster was Chairman of the committee. He made notes of what was remembered by the memebrs of the committee and others with whom he consulted, which he added to his own recollections with the result that the others delegated him to frame up to the best of his ability the whole speech with the incidental surroundings. Mr. Foster's relation to us, at that Sunday break- fast, of how he got his mind working on the task was very interesting. To get the right start he sat down in his library and imagined himself back to the night of the fellowship dinner ; he fixed his thoughts on how he was dressed ; how he stepped into the conveyance that took him to the din- ner; how he entered the elevator and landed on the floor of the banquet hall. Then, as he saw in his mind's eye some of those who had been present at the dinner, 186 IN REMINISCENCE he knew he was in the right frame of mind to undertake the task assigned to him. Again he saw himself back to that view of the ban- quet table, its decorations, the corn and the pumpkins, etc. and saw the other guests in jumpers and straw hats. He looked for old Uncle Dick and Jefferson, imagined them sitting as he saw them during the serving of the dinner. All of this time he was sitting in his library at home. Then he saw the toastmaster, (Franklin H. Head) ; he heard the introduction and the other speakers ; then came Uncle Dick, with his wonderful speech; from that point in his reminiscences he commenced to make notes, as his mind was filled with the subject. From these notes he reconstructed the speech to such form as to cause the other members of the committee to agree that it was practically the Oglesby speech as they remembered it. It was then decided to put it in print and send it out for publication. That is the story as told to us by Mr. Foster at the Sunday breakfast in his home in Evanston. The speech was printed in "Modern Eloquence". Since writing the foregoing, I found a copy of the speech which reads as follows : "The corn, the corn, the corn, that in its first beg- ging and its growth has furnished aptest illustration of the tragic announcement of the chiefest hope of man. "If he die he shall surely live again. Planted in the friendly but somber bosom of the mother earth it dies. Yea it dies the second death, surrendering up each trace of form and earthly shape until the outward tide is IN REMINISCENCE 187 stopped by the reacting vital germ, which breaking all the bonds and cerements of its sad decline, comes bound- ing, laughing into life and light, the fittest of all symbols that makes certain the promise of the fate of man. And so it dies and then it lives again. And so my people died. By some unknown uncertain and unfriendly fate, I found myself making my first journey from conditions as lowly as those surrounding that awakening, dying, living, in- fant germ. "It was in those days when I, a simple boy, had wandered from Indiana to Springfield, that I then met the father of this good man (Joseph Jefferson) whose kind and gentle words to me were as water to a thirsty soul, as the shadow of a rock to a weary man. I loved his father then, as I love the son now. Two full generations have been taught by his gentleness and smiles, and tears have answered to the command of his artistic mind. Long may he live to make us laugh and cry, and cry and laugh by turns, as he may choose to move. "But now again my mind turns to the glorious corn. See it! Look on the ripening weaving field. See how it wears a crown prouder than a monarch ever wore, sometimes jauntily and sometimes after the storm the dignified survivors of the tempest seem to view a field of slaughter and to pity a fallen foe. And see the pen- dant caskets of the cornfield filled with the wine of life, and see the silken fringes that set a form for fashion and for art. "And now the evening comes and something of a time to rest and listen. "The scudding clouds conceal the half and then re- 188 IN REMINISCENCE veal the whole of the moonlit beauty of the night, and then the gentle winds make heavenly harmonies on a thousand-thousand harps that hang upon the borders and edges and the middle of the field of ripening corn, until my very heart seems to beat responsive to the rising and the falling of the long melodious refrain. "The melancholy clouds sometimes make shadows on the field and hide the aureate wealth, and now they move and slowly into sight there comes the golden glow of promise for an industrious land. ' ' Glorious corn, that more than all the sisters of the field wears tropic garments. Nor the shore of Nilus or of Ind does nature dress her form more splendidly. My God, to live again that time when for me half the world was good and the other half unknown. And now again the corn, that in its kernal holds the strength that shall (in the body of the man refreshed) subdue the forest and compel response from every stubborn field, or, shining in the eye of beauty make blossom of her cheeks and jewels of her lips and thus make for man the greatest inspiration to well-doing, the hope of companionship of that sacred, warm and well embodied soul, a woman. "Aye, the corn, the Eoyal Corn within whose yellow heart there is the health of all the nations. The corn triumphant that with the aid of man hath made victorious procession across the turfted plain and laid foundation for the social excellence that is and is to be. "This glorious plant, transmuted by the Alchemy of God, sustains the warrior in battles, the poet in song, and strengthens everywhere the thousand arms that work the purposes of life. Oh, that I had the voice or skill to IN REMINISCENCE 189 translate into tones the harmonies, the symphonies and oratories that roll across my soul, when standing some- times by day and sometimes by night upon the borders of this verdant sea, I note a world of promise, and then be- fore one half the year is gone I view its full frnition and see the heaped gold await the need of man. Majestic, fruitful, wondrous plant! Those greatest among the manifestations of the wisdom and love of God, that may be seen in all the fields or upon the hillsides or in the valleys. ' '