LIBRARY OF THE 
 UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS 
 AT URBANA-CHAMPAICN 
 
 914.15 
 
 C93g 
 
Defective Copy 
 
 This volume has missing or illegible 
 pages. The UlUC library's microform 
 copy of this volume is complete. 
 
i 
 
 1 
 
 \ 
 
 Humanities 
 
GUIDE 
 
 KILLARNEY 
 
 AND 
 
 GLENGARIFF 
 
 WITH A MAP, AND SIX PLATES. 
 
 NEW EDITION HEVISED AND CORRECTED. 
 
 DUBLIN 
 
 WILLIAM CURRY, JUN. AND COMPANY, 
 
 9 , UPPER SACKVILLE-STREET., 
 
 1835. r 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 DUBLIN : 
 
 Printed by P. Dixon Hardy, 3, Cecilia. street. 
 
3 0^'y 30 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 q H. 15 
 
 In preparing this edition, the Publishers beg 
 to state that they have spared neither pains 
 nor expense to render it useful to Tourists ; and 
 they flatter themselves they have succeeded at 
 least in combining simplicity of arrangement 
 with accuracy of detail. The various new lines 
 of road, and other improvements connected with 
 Killarney and Glengariff, have been carefully 
 noted, the extraneous local matter of former 
 editions has been revised, and much general in- 
 formation added. 
 
 The Directions for Tourists have been ar- 
 ranged so as to present in a summary point of 
 view, the extent, boundaries, and relative posi- 
 tions of the different mountains, lakes, rivers, &c. 
 which constitute the general scenery of Killarney 
 and Glengariff*, so that the numerous minor fea- 
 tures detailed and repeated in the descriptions 
 may be readily comprehended in their different 
 local bearings and situations. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 In briefly noticing the general improvements 
 now carrying on in this, the most picturesque 
 and delightful district of the island, the publish- 
 ers deem it a duty incumbent on them to notice 
 the excellent road from Glengariff to Kenmare, 
 now making by the Board of Works; and the 
 munificent arrangements made and in progress 
 for the special accommodation of visiters by 
 Lord Kenmare. 
 
 Dublin, 
 August, 1835. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 TTatole of Distances 3 
 
 Roads from Cork and Limerick 4 
 
 Road to Bantry.vv-v- 7 
 
 Town of Bantry 8 
 
 Views of Bantry Bay.,^v.,««^^,r^-.~. 9 
 
 Bantry Bay^^^^^^^^^ 12 
 
 Seacourt 15 
 
 Dunemarc 16 
 
 Priest’s Leap.^vr»v>«>^,r^-.-v.^-.^^ 18 
 
 Gougan Barra 21 
 
 Glengariff — 26 
 
 Hungry- Hill 36 
 
 Glanmore, Caha, 37 
 
 Bearhaven, Dunboy 38 
 
 Glengariff to Killarney 39 
 
 Town of Kenmare 40 
 
 Kenraare to Killarney 41 
 
 Town of Killarney 42 
 
 Eoss Island^vvy^^^^v,^^^^^^^ — «. 45 
 
 
 Page 
 
 O’Donohoe’s Prison 
 
 ... 51 
 
 Inisfallen Island,v^^^w..^^,>>v,^>v^ 53 
 
 O’Sullivan’s Cascade 
 
 ... 62 
 
 Bay of Glena 
 
 ... 67 
 
 Stag HVint,rrr.-^rr/wrj-j-or/^f^,r^ 
 
 ... 69 
 
 Turk Lake rrrrr^r^rrrr.r^^rr^r. 
 
 ... 72 
 
 Passage to the Upper Lake« 
 
 ... 77 
 
 Upper Lake.vw»t^^^,>,r^.ww'.^ 
 
 ... 82 
 
 Mucruss Abbey,^v.,vv^^«i,^-..^v^ 92 
 Mucruss Demesne 98 
 
 Mangerton Mountainww* 101 
 
 Aghadoe 107 
 
 Dunloe HI 
 
 Ascent of Carran Tual,^^.w,vw. 115 
 Carragh Lakes 119 
 
 Directions for Tourists^^«^,^ 121 
 List of Islands and Cascades,^^ 128 
 Heights of the Mountains ib. 
 Index 129 
 
 LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 GLENGARIFF, FRONTISPIECE 
 MAP OF THE LAKES 
 ROSS CASTLE, 
 
 TURK LAKE 
 THE EAGLE’S NEST 
 MAC GILLICUDDY’S REEKS, 
 MUCRUSS ABBEY 
 
 Page 
 . 42 
 , 46 
 . 72 
 . 78 
 . 84 
 . 92 
 
CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS. 
 
 Page 
 
 19 — For Pass of Cooleagh, read Pass of Keminea. 
 
 95 — Fourth line from bottom, for thirfi/ feet, read thirteen feet. 
 
 100 — Second line from top, insert “ The old house of Mucruss has been 
 taken down.” 
 
 108— Fourth line from top, for Prospect Hall, the seat of G. Cronin , 
 Esq. read the seat of the Hon. Mr. Browne. 
 
GUIDE 
 
 TO 
 
 KILLARNEY AND GLENGARIFF. 
 
 CORK TO KILLARNEY. 
 
 Miles 
 
 Ballincollig 4^ 
 
 Carrickadrohid 16 
 
 Macroom 20J 
 
 Millstreet 31 
 
 Killarney 48§ 
 
 LIMERICK TO KILLARNEY 
 AND TRALEE. 
 
 Adair 8 
 
 Ratbkeale 13| 
 
 Newcastle 20 
 
 Abbeyfeale 30 
 
 Castleisland 41 
 
 Killarney 53 
 
 Tralee 69 
 
 CORK TO BANTRY. 
 
 Miles 
 
 Innisbannon 
 
 12 
 
 Bandon 
 
 15| 
 
 Clogbnakilty 
 
 25| 
 
 Roscarberry 
 
 32 
 
 Skibbereen 
 
 42 
 
 Dromore 
 
 49 
 
 Bantry 
 
 564 
 
 CORK TO BANTRY, 
 
 
 BY MACROOM. 
 
 
 Macroom 
 
 204 
 
 Inchageelah 
 
 27i 
 
 Glen of Keminea 
 
 354 
 
 Bantry 
 
 474 
 
 ROADS FROM CORK AND LIMERICK. 
 
 In accommodating these notices to the two-fold 
 matters to which the attention of the tourist will 
 henceforth be attracted, it may be observed, that 
 in these preliminary remarks our object will be to 
 point out the more important features of the in- 
 tervening country, and the general outline of his 
 route. From Cork to Eallarney there are two 
 daily conveyances — the mail coach, and an 
 equally well appointed four horse coach. The 
 distance is forty-eight miles, and the journey is per- 
 formed in about seven hours. Both coaches pass 
 through Macroom ; the mail then proceeds by Mill- 
 street, the other through Glen Flesk to Killarney. 
 
4 ROADS FROM CORK AND LIMERICK. 
 
 The road from Cork to Macroom by the north bank 
 of the Lee, through Inniscarra, Dripsey, and Car- 
 rigadrohid, is much more beautiful than the mail- 
 coach road. Cars can be easily hired in Cork. 
 
 From Limerick to Killarney there are also two 
 daily conveyances — the Limerick and Tralee mail 
 by Adair, Rathkeale, Abbeyfeale, and Castle 
 Island, where it branches off to Killarney; and 
 one of Bianconi’s well-appointed two horse cars, 
 following exactly the same route, starting with the 
 mail, and keeping the same time. The distance 
 is fifty-three miles, and the journey is performed in 
 nine hours. This route makes Killarney much 
 nearer to Dublin, and, of course, to all the 
 country via Limerick, than by Cork. The tourist 
 may either proceed by Limerick or Cork as may 
 best suit his arrangements. If, however, time 
 permits, we would, in all cases, advise the tourist 
 to go to Killarney the one way and return the 
 other. In this way Glengariff can be visited 
 either going to or coming from Cork. As all the 
 public cont^eyances touching at Killarney are in 
 connection with Tralee, the tourist can, with the 
 greatest convenience, extend his journey so far, 
 and, according to his time, visit the splendid 
 scenery on either side of Dingle Bay ; and pro- 
 ceed to Limerick by a distinct route from that we 
 have just adverted to — namely, to Tarbert, and 
 thence up the Lower Shannon to Limerick by the 
 steamer from Kilrush which touches at Tarbert. 
 In adopting this latter course, it is necessary to 
 
ROADS FROM CORK AND LIMERICK. 5 
 
 know the order of the steamers, as they ply up 
 and down on alternate days. From Limerick to 
 Dublin, the tourist had best travel by the Inland 
 Navigation Company's excellent vessels up the 
 Shannon and through the magnificent scenery 
 of Lough Dearg to Shannon Harbour, and 
 thence by the Grand Canal to Dublin, stopping 
 for the night at Tullamore. We may here re- 
 mark, that if it is intended to take Bantry and 
 GlengarifF on the way from Cork, the tourist can 
 proceed along the coast by the mail from Bantry ; 
 or go as far as Macroom on the direct road to 
 Killarney, and there hire a conveyance to Bantry, 
 by the Pass of Keminea,* visiting Lakes Allua, 
 and Gougane Barra. (Googawn Borra.) 
 
 As our plan will not admit of a detailed de- 
 scription of the country lying between the two 
 great leading points to Killarney — namely, Cork 
 and Limerick, we must limit our observations to 
 the more general or leading features. From 
 Cork, to a few miles beyond Macroom, the coun- 
 try is naturally beautiful, well cultivated, and 
 highly adorned by the numerous gentlemen’s 
 seats along the banks of the Lee. The vicinity of 
 Macroom is interesting, and a few hours might be 
 advantageously spent in visiting the demesne and 
 mansion of R. Hedges Eyre, Esq. Beyond this 
 the country assumes a wild and barren aspect, 
 which gradually increases as you approach the 
 vast mountain ranges surrounding Killarney. 
 
 • Pronounced Caymaneea. 
 
6 ROADS FROM CORK AND LIMERICK. 
 
 From Limerick to Killarney the country is of 
 a highly varied description. From Limerick, to 
 a few miles beyond Newcastle, the road lies 
 through one of the most fertile tracts in Ireland. 
 As far as the base of the distant mountain ranges 
 it is one unbroken plain of the richest soil. A 
 fine prospect of this vast champaign tract is ob- 
 tained from the new line of road which ascends 
 the hills beyond Newcastle. 
 
 As the different coaches do not leave Limerick 
 till after the arrival of the Dublin mail in the 
 morning, we would advise the tourist to go as far 
 as Adair the preceding evening, in order to see 
 the extensive and highly interesting ruins and de- 
 mesne of Adair. There is a comfortable inn here, 
 and should the tourist not be able to visit all the 
 ruins the preceding evening, there will be plenty 
 of time in the morning before the arrival of the 
 coaches from Limerick. In this case it will be ne- 
 cessary to secure seats before leaving Limerick. 
 
 Beyond Newcastle the road winds through a 
 moorland tract of low hills and wide spreading 
 vallies. The country now presents a bare and 
 desolate appearance; but as by far the greater 
 part of it is susceptible of great improvement, 
 and the attention of the proprietors being now 
 directed to this matter, it will soon assume a more 
 pleasing aspect. This description of country 
 generally prevails, under various modifications, 
 till you reach Castle Island. The view of the 
 
ROAD TO BANTRY. 
 
 7 
 
 rich valley stretching towards Dingle Bay, and 
 the numerous mountain ranges, as seen from the 
 mountain road descending towards Castle Island, 
 is truly fine. From Castle Island to Killarney 
 the country is tolerably well cultivated, and the 
 road, running through several romantic vallies, 
 discloses new views, increasing in interest, in 
 beauty, and in grandeur. 
 
 ROAD TO BANTRY. 
 
 Bantry Bay, including Sea Court, Dunemarc, 
 Priest’s Leap, Pass of Keminea, Gougane Barra, 
 Glengariff, Hungry Hill, Glenmore, Caha, Bear- 
 haven and D unboy. 
 
 The above places are separately noticed, in their 
 order, in the following pages ; and should the tourist 
 wish to visit them, on his way to Killarney from 
 Cork, he has a choice of the following routes: — 
 
 First. To Bantry by Bandon,Cloughnakilty,Ros- 
 carberry, and Skibbereen, fifty-six miles in nine 
 hours. Tliis is the only road on which there is a 
 direct public conveyance ; the mail leaves Cork in 
 the morning, and reaches Bantry in the evening. 
 
 Secondly. By Bandon and Dunmanway, forty- 
 five miles. This is the least interesting road- 
 There is a daily conveyance to Dunmanway ; but 
 beyond this, although the road is in fair order, 
 there are neither public conveyances plying nor 
 to be hired. 
 
8 
 
 TOWN OF BANTRY. 
 
 / 
 
 Thirdl}^ By Macroom and the Pass of Kemi- 
 nea ; on which line, at a mile and a half from 
 the road, lies the romantic Lake of Gougane 
 Barra. This route is forty-seven and a half miles, 
 and embraces more of the scenery of the Bantry 
 district than any of the others. From Macroom 
 vehicles can be hired to Bantry. 
 
 TOWN OF BANTRY. 
 
 The town of Bantry is beautifully situated at 
 the head of the splendid bay which bears its 
 name. It contains 4,500 inhabitants, and al- 
 though there is not much business at present 
 carried on, it is admirably situated for an ex- 
 tensive trade. A wide arm of the bay runs 
 into the town, and a new' road will shortly com- 
 mence to GlengarifF, wich will connect Bantry 
 with Kenmare and Killarney, by a very interest- 
 ing route. 
 
 The headlands which are projected past the 
 town on either side, into the bay — the more 
 respectable houses occupying the surrounding 
 heights backed by the hill of Knuck-na-liach, 
 together with the plantations of Lord Bantry^ 
 which run up close to the town, give to the whole 
 a picturesque appearance. The principal inns 
 are Godson's and Marony's. Cars, ponies, and 
 boats can be obtained on moderate terms, al- 
 though these accommodations are not so good as is 
 
VIEWS OF THE BAY. 
 
 9 
 
 to be desired. Lord Bantry is uniformly obliging 
 to strangers, whom he frequently accommodates 
 with the use of his boat. 
 
 VIEWS OF THE BAY. 
 
 Before the tourist is introduced to the nearer 
 and more detailed view of this magnificent bay, he 
 will most probably desire to observe its splendid 
 efiect as a feature of the surrounding scenery. 
 There are for this purpose many favourable sites. 
 One of the best is on the eastern height of Knuc- 
 na-fiach,* which hangs immediately over the 
 town, from w^hich, at the same moment, may be 
 seen the two bays of Dunmanus and Bantry. One 
 of the best southern views is from a hill directly 
 before Rindonegan-house. The modern fort be- 
 hind Gurtenroe-house affords the best central 
 prospect of the bay. Of the general effect of 
 such views, no adequate notion can be conveyed 
 by description : there are, nevertheless, few tou- 
 rists who may not feel the interest of the scene to 
 be heightened by the perusal of the following 
 masterly sketch. 
 
 ^^The road from Dunmanus Bay brings you 
 over another parallel mountain-ridge; and after 
 
 * Hill of deer or hunt. A still better view is to be had 
 a few miles off, on the western ridge of this hill. 
 
10 
 
 VIEWS OF THE BAY. 
 
 a tedious ascent, you crown the summit, and at 
 once see the whole panorama of Bantry Bay under 
 your feet ; I challenge the British Empire to show 
 such a harbour, or such fine land and sea scenery. 
 Nothing I have yet seen in Wales, or England, or 
 Ireland, is at all comparable to it ; perhaps Lough 
 Swilly comes near it — but it must yield the palm. 
 It is inferior in climate, mountain outline, and ex- 
 panse of harbour. Besides, Bantry Bay holds that 
 beautiful gem, Glengariff, within the setting of its 
 wide and gorgeous ring. 
 
 As I stood on the southern ridge of mountain, 
 and looked across on a fine clear March day — to 
 the east, in the far blue distance, rose Mangerton, 
 in dark and lofty massiveness : to the left of it, 
 M‘Gillicuddy’s Reeks, their points piercing the 
 ^ cumulo stratus’ of the clouds, and leaving you to 
 guess at their mysterious altitudes ; nearer still to 
 the north-west. Hungry Mountain rising like an 
 embattled wall before you, and down the mural 
 descent, as relieved from its black ground, fell the 
 cataract of Adrigoll, in a perpendicular column of 
 800 feet ! — nearer still, facing the north, the Sugar- 
 loaf mountain, almost as white in its silicious 
 quartzose formation, as if it were chrystalized ^ 
 sugar ; directly under my feet was the inner har- 
 bour of Bantry, protected and divided from the 
 outer bay by the green island of Whiddy ; and up 
 and down on that placid water were studded isles 
 
VIEWS OF THE BAY. 
 
 11 
 
 and islets, one crested with an ancient castle, ano- 
 ther crowned with a modern battery — here a Mar- 
 tello tower, there the ruins of a fishing palace 
 and to finish the setting of this rich jewel, the 
 trees, woods, hills, and fine mansion-house of Lord 
 Bantry, his green and highly dressed lawn, sweep- 
 ing down in easy undulations to the very water s 
 edge. I cannot say how much I was struck with 
 this delightful tout ensemble. And certainly, as 
 was exemplified here, any thing that is admirable 
 is made much more so by contrast. I had for 
 miles travelled over a dull and dreary way — bare, 
 desolate, unsatisfactory — rocky elevations, or 
 gloomy moors, crowded with miserable huts, a 
 population evidently and fearfully increasing, 
 amidst difficulties and privations altogether insuf- 
 ficient to check its monstrous progress ; and I had 
 read Malthus's convincing but gloomy book ; and 
 war, pestilence, and famine, ^ terribihs visu formcB^ 
 rose up in necessary association, as summoned to 
 feast on and make prey in future of this teeming 
 population. It therefore was a pleasant relief, 
 coming down from this district, to rest on the sweet 
 green shores of Bantry Bay, to feast the eye on 
 the wooded hills, with all their herds and deer, of 
 Lord Bantry ’s park, hanging as it does in umbra* 
 
 * Fishing palaces, as they were called, were large establish- 
 ments on the coast, where they used to cure pilchards. 
 
12 
 
 BANTRY BAY. 
 
 geous verdure over this noble sheet of water ; and 
 to add to the full keeping of the fine landscape, a 
 large West Indiaman rode in all the quiet repose 
 of the secure and land-locked anchorage.” 
 
 BANTRY BAY. 
 
 This capacious harbour is twenty six miles in 
 length, and in breadth from six to eight — its depth 
 varies from ten to forty fathoms. Its entrance lies be- 
 tween Sheephead point and the mountains of Beer- 
 haven. It contains several islands, of which the 
 principal are Bear Island and Whiddy. Whiddy 
 is nearest to the town : it presents a surface of 
 gentle inequalities, covered by a highly fertile soil. 
 It is about three miles in length, and from one to 
 a quarter of a mile in breadth, and maintains about 
 four hundred and fifty inhabitants. Besides some 
 excellent springs, it has two considerable lakes, 
 one of fresh and the other of salt water, the latter 
 of which abounds with large eels. On this island 
 are three batteries, erected subsequent to the at- 
 tempted invasion of the French in 1796. It con- 
 tains the remains of an ancient castle of the O’Sul- 
 livans,^ to whom the whole of this district once 
 
 * In this district, the author of the Sketches, in his lively 
 way, tells us, almost every man is an O’Sullivan.” They 
 
BANTRY BAY. 
 
 13 
 
 belonged. The present proprietor is the Earl of 
 Bantry. 
 
 Near the entrance of the harbour, Bear Island 
 lifts its rude, wild cliffs against the south-western 
 storms, affording a shelter, which is not likely to 
 be undervalued by any one who has witnessed the 
 inconceivable fury and mountain volume with 
 which the waves of the Atlantic rush against these 
 rocky barriers. This island is about six miles long, 
 and one in distance from the western shore, form- 
 ing an interval which is called Beerhaven harbour, 
 on the mainland side of which is the little town of 
 Beerhaven. Beerhaven was formerly defended by 
 a strong castle. It was a place of no small impor- 
 tance in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when 
 the Irish chiefs maintained a frequent intercourse 
 with Spain. The other islands which lie near the 
 town are. Chapel, Horse, Hog, and Rabbit Islands. 
 
 In exploring this Bay, the informed tourist will 
 find its interest heightened by many traditionary 
 and historical recollections. He will hear or re- 
 collect, with a smile, the antiquarian dreams of the 
 venerable visionary Keating, according to whom 
 
 possessed many castles in the Bay, and were distinguished by 
 the names of their respective places. Their principal descen- 
 dants dwell now chiefly on the Kerry side of the mountains. 
 Some of them have attained rank among the nobility of Spain : 
 and we have been informed, that the representative of the elder 
 branch of this family is a respectable baronet of Great Britain. 
 
14 
 
 BANTRY BAY. 
 
 the antidiluvian Beth landed here, and first took 
 possession of the green island, with three men and 
 fifty women. Here, on a small island, his atten- 
 tion will be directed to the site of a fortress be- 
 longing to that consummate statesman and leader, 
 Carew, Lord President of Munster in the days of 
 Elizabeth. Here also he will recollect the descent 
 of a French fleet in 1789, under the command of 
 Monsieur Perrault, which was only saved from the 
 English fleet under Herbert by the unfavourable 
 state of the wind, which did not permit more than 
 a partial attack. And here also, last not least, he 
 will recal the more formidable event of 1796 ; 
 when this island was providentially rescued, by a 
 hurricane of unparalleled fury, from the most for- 
 midable fleet that ever left the shores of France, 
 bearing a force which there was no preparation to 
 repel.* 
 
 * As this event forms no small part of the authentic recol- 
 lections of the place, the reader will be gratified by the perusal 
 of the following official notification of this event. 
 
 ‘‘My Lord — The last accounts from General Dairy mple 
 are by his Aid -de-Camp, Captain Gordon, who left Bantry at 
 ten o’clock on Tuesday, a. m. and arrived here this morning. 
 Seventeen sail of French ships were at that time at anchor on 
 the lower part of Bear Island, but at such a distance that the 
 force could not be ascertained. A lieutenant of a French 
 frigate was driven on shore in his boat, in attempting to go 
 from his vessel, which was dismasted, to the admiral. He 
 affirms the account of the fleet being French, with hostile 
 
SEACOURT. 
 
 15 
 
 Connected with this recollection, and strikingly 
 conspicuous as a feature of the surrounding sce- 
 nery, appear the fortress and tower, built at 
 considerable expense after this invasion. Of these 
 the best that may be said is, that they add much 
 to the picturesque beauty of the scene ; and 
 although they cannot offer the slightest obstacle 
 to future invaders, they may yet add much to the 
 harmless romance of the Vallanceys and O’Briens 
 of remoter generations. 
 
 SEACOURT, 
 
 The dwelling and demesne of the Earl of Bantry, 
 is within less than a mile from the town. The 
 house contains an excellent collection of pictures. 
 The park, in which it occupies a well selected site, 
 stretches its green and wooded declivity down to 
 the shore. On the opposite side, at the distance 
 
 views to this country ; but does not appear to know whether 
 the whole fleet — which consisted of about seventeen sail of the 
 line, fifteen frigates, and, including transports and luggers, 
 amounted to fifty sail — were all to re-assemble off* Bantry. 
 General Hoche was on board, commanding a considerable 
 force. 
 
 I have the honour, &c. 
 
 «T. PELHAM. 
 
 “ Right Hon. the Lord Mayor.’ 
 
16 
 
 DUNEMARC. 
 
 / 
 
 of about six miles, over a beautiful and lake-like 
 expanse, interspersed with islands, 
 
 That like to rich and various gems inlay 
 
 The unadorned bosom of the deep, 
 
 may be seen the woods of GlengarifF, rich with 
 the promise of to-morrow’s pleasure ; and beyond 
 these a range of mountainous elevations, stretch- 
 ing in grey distance into Kerry. The ancestors 
 of the family of Bantry are said to have entered 
 this country in the middle of the seventh century. 
 The present lord, whose family name is White, 
 was created baron in 1797. In 1800 he was ad- 
 vanced in the peerage by the title of viscount ; 
 and in 1816, was created earl of Bantry and Vis- 
 count Beerhaven. He is honourably distinguished 
 for his brave and patriotic activity in the troubles 
 of 1796. 
 
 DUNEMARC. 
 
 Half a mile further is the clear but rushing water 
 of Moyalla, the nearest of three streams which run 
 into the northern extremity of the bay. A shaded 
 path from the left of the road will conduct the 
 tourist to the fall of Dunmarc. It may be 
 visited, and that perhaps to most advantage, 
 in the tour of the bay ; in which case it must 
 
DUNEMARC. 
 
 17 
 
 be approached at highwater, in a row-boat, as the 
 passage to the fall is both narrow and impeded. 
 It lies within the immediate vicinity of the basin, 
 and may be reached in a few minutes row. 
 
 The tourist enters through a small cove, between 
 two wooded hills, into a winding channel, on 
 either side of which, the overhanging rocks are 
 richly clothed with heath and tangling ivy, sea- 
 pink and saxifrage in all the various and luxuriant 
 vegitation of these southern coasts, and deriving 
 encreased brilliancy and freshness from the eter- 
 nal dews of the Moyallah, where it falls with all 
 its waters in one leap from a height above 
 twenty feet into the sea. On the land approach, 
 Ardnagaschil, the seat of Mr. A. Hutchins, is 
 equally attractive for its graceful and rich lawn 
 scenery ; and for the striking points of view which 
 look out over the bay and distant hills, from its 
 fresh lawns and well-shaded acclivities. West- 
 ward, along the coast, between this and the river 
 Ouvane, occur in order — Bonnymare, Gurtnaroe, 
 Rindonigan, and Ballylicky cove. From Dune- 
 marc nothing will detain the visiter till he gains 
 Rindonigan lake, on the opposite side of which 
 the height of Carrignachiantau affords one of the 
 best prospects over the bay. On the opposite 
 bank of the Ouvane stands the ruin of Rindi- 
 sart castle, the stronghold of Sir Owen O’Sullivan, 
 
 c 
 
18 
 
 PRIEST’S LEAP. 
 
 / 
 
 who erected it to preserve by force the territory 
 which he gained by treachery. It was by 
 Ireton’s order demolished by the fire of a ship of 
 war. 
 
 Following the coast, the tourist next reaches the 
 little estuary which receives the waters of Coor- 
 loum river, where it enters the bay at Snaire. 
 This river is the best supplied of any in the barony 
 with trout and salmon. It offers a marked con- 
 trast to Ballylicky cove, in the bold, naked steep 
 which encloses its narrow and winding recess, 
 which penetrates nearly a mile into the country. 
 The peculiar effect of this place is its loneliness 
 and seclusion of aspect. Into this the Coorloum 
 (foam of the desolate) pours, from the dark and 
 rocky labyrinth of its steep banks rising on each 
 side, and almost interrnatted above with luxu- 
 riant copsewood. About four miles from Bantry, 
 on the river Ouvane, stands the ruin of the castle 
 of Carriganass. In it Daniel O’Sullivan kept gar- 
 rison in the time of Elizabeth ; but, after the con- 
 quest of Dunboy, it was surrendered to the queen’s 
 forces. It was a high tower with a square court, 
 and flanked with four round towers. 
 
 PRIEST’S LEAP. 
 
 From this immediate district there are but two 
 outlets into the neighbouring county of Kerry. 
 
PASS OF COOLEAGH. 
 
 19 
 
 Of these, one is well known by the name of the 
 Priest's Leap — a rugged and dangerous mountain 
 pass, through which runs a road leading over Man- 
 gerton. This place may be taken on the way to 
 the Pass and Gougane Barra, but is not of itself 
 sufficiently remarkable to demand separate notice. 
 A good road, up the right bank of the river, 
 passes by it; and after a few minutes, the tra- 
 veller comes upon a narrow glen, from which a 
 sudden turn, round a projecting rock, discloses 
 a deep and narrow defile, winding wildly between 
 mountain cliffs, which appear rent asunder on 
 either side. And he enters the 
 
 PASS OF COOLEAGH, 
 
 Remarkable alike for its formidable aspect and 
 terrific associations. Flight, fear, and conceal- 
 ment — ^lurking rebellion, with its fearful and guilty 
 train, plunder and devastation — shed their frown- 
 ing and desolate expression around its magnifi- 
 cently stern defiles. This striking scene is so well 
 described by the writer of the Sketches in Ireland, 
 that we cannot hope to offer any thing so true and 
 expressive of its characteristic effect. 
 
 ‘‘This deep and extraordinary chasm, which 
 nature has excavated through these mountains, 
 and which, within these last ten years, has been 
 
 c 2 
 
20 
 
 PASS OF COOLEAGH. 
 
 taken advantage of, in order to make an excellent 
 road between Macroom and Bantry, is really one 
 of the most picturesque things in Ireland. It is 
 well worth a journey to see its rocks and preci- 
 pices : its cliffs clothed with ivy, and here and there 
 interspersed through the masses of rock, old holly 
 and yew trees, and occasionally an arbutus : — and 
 then its strange and sudden windings. You look 
 back, and you cannot find out how you got in — 
 before you, and you cannot imagine how you are 
 to get forward. You might imagine that the spirit 
 of the mountain had got you into his strong hold, 
 and here you were impounded by everlasting en- 
 chantment. Then the surpassing loneliness of the 
 place — 
 
 ^ I never 
 
 So deeply felt the force of solitude. 
 
 High over head the eagle soared serene, 
 
 And the grey lizard on the rocks below 
 Basked in the sun.’ 
 
 And now I had arrived at one part of the 
 Pass where an immense square castellated rock, a 
 keep of nature’s own construction, seemed to stop 
 up the road for ever. The sides of this natural 
 fortress were clothed and garnished with ivy, mai- 
 den hair, feathery ferns, and London pride ; and 
 on the very top of the crag, as if its warder, on 
 the very extreme beetling point, a goat, a high- 
 iiorned shaggy fellow, stood — and how he stood I 
 
GOUGAN BARRY. 
 
 21 
 
 could not explain, or scarcely imagine — but there 
 he was in all bearded solemnity. Salvator Rosa 
 would have painted for a month gratis, to be in- 
 dulgecUwith an opportunity of fixing such a cha- 
 racteristic scene, and such accompaniments, on his 
 canvass.” 
 
 In the troubled winter of 1822, the Rockites 
 found in this wild and difficult pass a lurking place 
 and stronghold, from which they spread nightly 
 terror and devastation around the country. Here 
 they were with equal bravery and incautiousness 
 pursued by a party, consisting of forty gentlemen, 
 headed by Lord B — y, and accompanied by a 
 party of the 39th regiment of foot, who narrowly 
 escaped being destroyed by the Rockite ambus- 
 cade. The story is told with romantic effect by 
 the writer whom we have so often cited but it 
 would be much too long for our present purpose. 
 
 GOUGAN BARRY. 
 
 From this wild pass, a rocky and difficult road 
 turns to the left, and, after a mile and a half of 
 slow and jolting progress, the tourist is struck by 
 the sudden appearance of the lake of Gougan 
 Barry, or hermitage of St. Finbar. This is about 
 seventeen miles from Bantry ; and as there is no 
 
 Sketches in Ireland. 
 
22 
 
 GOUGAN BARRY. 
 
 inn, the tourist is advised to start early, and not 
 without due provision for the wants of his internal 
 man. This lake is about a mile in length and 
 half a mile in breadth. It lies in a deep cir- 
 cular valley, opening to the east, and on every 
 other point shut in by the precipitous and rocky 
 barriers of the mountains Dereen, Maolagh, 
 Nadanuillar and Faoultena Gouganne. These 
 wild elevations lift up their steep and rugged 
 barriers perpendicularly from the border of 
 the still and solitary water which reflects them 
 from beneath. To convey the awful impres- 
 sion of this wild spot by words, would be a 
 hopeless effort. But if — as is most likely — the 
 reader has seen a small but exquisitely finished 
 painting exhibited by the Royal Hibernian Aca- 
 demy in 1834, he may form some notion of Gou- 
 gan Barry. In describing the spot, we cannot 
 do better than to avail ourselves of this striking 
 and, we fear not to say, unique picture. The 
 reader may imagine himself looking nearly west- 
 ward over the lake. Under him, and around his 
 feet, lies a broken and craggy surface, tinged with 
 the red, purple, and yellow tints of moss, heath, 
 briar, and lichen ; and glowing with the bright 
 and delicate tracery of the minute objects of a va- 
 riegated foreground. Beyond this, over a gentle 
 swell of crag and heather, drawn picturesquely 
 across its nearer surface, the lake of Gougan 
 
GOUGAN BARRY. 
 
 23 
 
 Barry expands its liquid mirror in placid but stern 
 repose. Overhead the grey and awful forms of 
 the surrounding mountains, project their dark 
 broad sides, half hidden, half revealed, through 
 the transparent drapery of a vast cloud, which 
 has for the last half-hour been suspended over the 
 darkened water. In the middle distance, upon a 
 little wooded islet, one dark object attracts the 
 tourist — it is the ancient hermitage of Finbar; and 
 just while he is gazing, in doubt whether he is 
 awake or asleep, and unwilling by a breath to dis- 
 turb the strange, lovely dream ; from a dazzling 
 cleft in the overhanging mass of purple darkness, 
 a solitary column of silvery light comes down, 
 pure, transparent, and etherial, upon the agitated 
 waters beyond, flooding, as from the cataracts of 
 heaven, a brilliant waterline, against which the 
 antique ruin casts its venerable form, and stands 
 like a picture within its magnificent frame of clouds 
 and crags. Further still, clear but shadowy, 
 dark but coloured with the massive streaks of hea- 
 ther and rock, and softly fading away in airier indis- 
 tinctness, cliff after cliff recedes into the purpling 
 gloom ; through which, here and there, shooting 
 from some polished surface upon the heights, a 
 gleam of arrowy sunshine, quivers through the 
 misty air. The tourist now, good easy man, con- 
 vinced that it can be nothing more or less than a 
 dream, and resolved to have his nap out, is set- 
 
24 
 
 GOUGAN BARRY. 
 
 tling to another hour of staring somnambulism, 
 when a voice is heard at his ear, cursing the ob- 
 tusity of that little heedless member, and urging 
 him forward to explore the island retreat of the 
 ancient Hermit. By this time, however, the cloud 
 that obscured the mountains has withdrawn its 
 heavy volume from their giant sides, and they 
 stand revealed in their savage grandeur and rug- 
 ged repose, grouped in wild variety around — • 
 bare, and broken into grey craggy masses, inter- 
 mingled with wild patches of shrubby copse, or 
 marbled with rocky veins, the geology of which 
 the tourist may settle for himself. 
 
 In the mean time, the island is gained. Here 
 are many objects which will attract attention, but 
 which require no explanation, and may be left to 
 tell their own stories. A holy well will explain 
 its uses by its votive rags ; and the primitive ma- 
 terials and rude masonry will tell at first glance 
 that centuries must have passed over the ruins of 
 St. Finbar’s dwelling, with remains of which the 
 isle is covered. Here the anchorite flourished 
 (as old books say) some time or other before Cork 
 was built, as he is said to be the founder of that 
 city and its cathedral. A long succession of ve- 
 nerable anchorites occupied his dwelling and imi- 
 tated his virtues ; of whom the last was Father 
 Denis O’Mahony. There is an annual patron 
 held in this island, and it is, or has been, the fre- 
 
GOUGAN BARRY. 
 
 25 
 
 quent resort of pilgrimages. The Roman Catho- 
 lic clergy have latterly discountenanced these su- 
 perstitious practices. 
 
 Near the lake is the little village of Rosalucha, 
 consisting of a few poor huts, which relieve with- 
 out breaking the solitude of the vale. West of 
 the lake may be seen a narrow recess — it is the 
 entrance to a little valley, which we recommend 
 to particular notice. The Ethiopian valley,” 
 says the author of the Sketches, that Johnson, 
 in all the richness of his language, describes as 
 the abode of Rasselas, was scarcely more inap- 
 proachable on everj^ side. The little level vale 
 lay before me, a lovely green meadow, a comfort- 
 able farm-house, with all its offices and home- 
 steads, cows, and horses, scattered depasturing 
 about — a flock of sheep grouped on a little green 
 knoll — a herd of goats on the accessible parts of a 
 ravine, that conveyed a tumbling torrent from the 
 western side of the mountain. Eastwards, from 
 about the centre of the precipice, as from the 
 heart of the hill, flowed the fountain of the river 
 Lee — it came welling, as if from the entrails of the 
 mountain : and northward, on an inaccessible 
 ledge, was an eagle’s nest, and one of those lordly 
 birds towering on poised wing in his ‘ pride of 
 place,’ challenged, with shrill and echoing voice, 
 the honours of his sovereignty 
 
26 
 
 GLENGARIFF. 
 
 A pleasant drive of about eleven miles from Ban- 
 try, round the bay, will bring the traveller to the 
 bay of Glengariff, (the rough glen.) Across 
 Bantry Bay the distance is about nine* miles. It 
 has an excellent inn, with guides, ponies, and 
 boats in abundance. 
 
 Many have laboured to describe Glengariff — 
 among these the writer of Sketches in Ireland has 
 alone so far succeeded, as to have caught, and in 
 some degree conveyed, the spirit of the scene. 
 But it must be felt, and that in proportion to the 
 competency of the observer, how inadequate all 
 description must be, to communicate a just impres- 
 sion of this unique spot. Bays and wooded glens, 
 lakes and mountains, have just so much general 
 resemblance to each other, that to any one who 
 has ever looked on the doings of nature, a few 
 words may convey a sufficient idea of most of her 
 varieties. A peculiar effect may be happily hit 
 by some new and well-combined sentence— a no- 
 vel combination may be described, a characteristic 
 feature happily seized on, so as to conjure up to 
 the mind’s eye, as it were by the magic of a word, 
 a whole chain of picturesque associations. But 
 who can enumerate the features of Glengariff — 
 what pen can sum into a sentence the singular 
 
GLENGARIFF. 
 
 27 
 
 and wild effect of all the wonders of a spot which 
 has no scenic parallel, and which can be only 
 wronged by comparison ? To conceive, without 
 actual observation, some remote impression of this 
 strangely beautiful wilderness of rocks and woods, 
 the reader must first imagine the vast waves of 
 some universal earthquake, by which the primeval 
 world may have been rocked to ruin, suddenly to 
 have been suspended at their height ; and while 
 the rest of nature was composed into the smooth 
 undulations of hill and valley, left as an eternal 
 monument, to speak of what has been, and bear a 
 terrific impression of that hand in which the world 
 is as dust in the balance. This, however, conveys 
 no adequate idea — it is but half a thought. The 
 scene is not more terrific than beautiful — not 
 more rude than adorned by art — not more bearing 
 the aspect of primeval ruin than the fresh, green, 
 wild variety of sylvan life. And now suppose,’' 
 writes the Sketcher, “ that in every hole, inden- 
 ture, crevice, and inflection of these rocks, grew a 
 yew or holly : there the yew with its yellower 
 tinge ; and here the arbutus, with its red stem, 
 and leaf of brighter green, and its rough, wild, 
 uncontrouled growth, adorning, and at the same 
 time disclosing the romantic singularity of the 
 scene.” 
 
 It is with just discrimination observed by the 
 same admirable describer, that “the family of 
 
28 
 
 GLENGARIFF. 
 
 Glengariff castle^ have shown admirable judg- 
 ment in simply giving a helping hand to nature. 
 All that was wanting was to turn morass into good 
 soil, and heath into a carpet of green grass — to 
 lay out walks through woods, under banks, and 
 around precipices : and taste has directed, and 
 money executed all this ; and thus the most inter- 
 esting lawn in Ireland (as I apprehend) has been 
 formed : underneath, the bay studded with islands, 
 on one of which the government has been gra- 
 ciously pleased to erect a most picturesque Mar- 
 
 tello tower. One would think that Mr. W , 
 
 if such a thing were possible, had bribed the engi* 
 neer who located these fortresses, to build here, 
 just by the way of keeping in awe the herring 
 fishermen — but in good truth to crown a prospect.” 
 
 The Bay of Glengariff is shut in by a small 
 island, ornamented, as mentioned in the above 
 description, with a tower. From this it receives 
 the appearance of a lake — far more beautiful than 
 any lake in effect. Around this, projecting their 
 rough masses, or receding into distant air, appear 
 mountains, “ of all forms, elevations, and outlines. 
 Hungry Mountain, with its cataract of eight hun- 
 dred feet falling from its side ; Sugar-loaf, so co- 
 nical, so bare, so white in its quartzose formation ; 
 Slieve Ghoul, the pathway of the fairies ; and Esk 
 
 The seat of Simon White, Esq. 
 
GLENGARIFF. 
 
 29 
 
 Mountain, over which I was destined to climb my 
 toilsome way : every hill had its peculiar interest, 
 and each, according to the time of the day or the 
 state of the atmosphere, presented a picture so 
 mutable — or bright or gloomy, or near or distant 
 — valleys laughing in sunshine, or shrouded in 
 dark and undefined masses of shade ; and so de- 
 ceptive, so variable, were the distances and capa- 
 bilities of prospect, that in the morning you could 
 see a hare bounding along on the ranges of those 
 hills, that, at noonday, were lost in the grey indis- 
 tinctness of distant vision.’' 
 
 The road winding round this bay presents at 
 every moment some new combination. We 
 would recommend the tourist to proceed to Cool- 
 ranny bridge, every furlong of which ofiers some 
 peculiar variety of mountain magnificence or syl- 
 van richness.* The ascent up Ghoul Mountain 
 will repay him by another of those vast perspec- 
 tive views of mountain and marine scenery, of 
 which we have already given some specimens, as 
 he may from thence obtain an unimpeded pros- 
 pect over mountains and bays, till his vision is 
 
 * In this latter respect the surrounding scenery is indebted 
 much to the genial temperature of this southern district, 
 which allows myrtles and other delicate shrubs to flourish in 
 every sheltered spot, and also much shortens the leafless in- 
 terval of the deciduous part of the forest, or mountain copse. 
 
30 
 
 GLENGARIFF. 
 
 arrested by the shadowy blue outline of Cape 
 Clear in the western distance. A footpath by the 
 river offers an astonishing variety of picturesque 
 combinations, which shift with magical effect at 
 every turn along its fantastic windings. Lord 
 Bantry’s lodge is situated on a little islet within 
 this river. The rustic bridge by which it is en- 
 tered is built from the timber of a French ship? 
 belonging to the fleet of 1796. Two miles be- 
 yond this cottage is the Eagle’s Nest ; it must be 
 approached on foot or horseback. The cliff on 
 which the eagle builds rises to an elevation of 
 about five hundred feet. The interest of this spot 
 is heightened by a romantic story. 
 
 After the sack of his strong hold, O’Sullivan, 
 with his wife, children, retainers, and cattle, took 
 shelter in the woods of Glengariff. Tyrrel and 
 O’Connor Kerry held communication with him 
 along the ridges of Slievelogher. Eugene M‘Egan, 
 the Apostolic Vicar, was in the centre of the 
 M^Carthys of Carbery. But the Lord President 
 was not to be withstood ; and his Lieutenant, Sir 
 Charles Wilmot, who was as good a guerilla as 
 Tyrrel, and who knew the fastnesses of Slieve- 
 logher and Desmond, as well as if he were the son 
 of a Sullivan, surprised the O’Sullivans in Glen- 
 gariff. The Prince of Bear and Bantry, amidst 
 his own rocks, bogs, and woods, fought in the face 
 of his wife, children, and people ; — the battle was 
 
GLENGARIFF. 
 
 SI 
 
 for the defence of the cattle, their only subsistence 
 — their all. Through the whole Munster war, 
 never was a field so desperately contested. From 
 rock to rock, and ridge to ridge, the Irish suffered 
 the assault of the English ; and still the well- 
 armed and fearless assailants carried one position 
 after another, until the O’Sullivans gave way, and 
 scattered over the hills, like sheep, leaving their 
 herds a prey to the spoiler. 
 
 ‘‘ And now Tyrrel, finding the left of his position 
 on Slievelogher turned by Wilmot — perceiving 
 the game was up in Munster, and hopeless of 
 farther Spanish aid, with the decision and despatch 
 for which he was so notorious, retreated along the 
 eastern parts of Kerry, through Limerick, Or- 
 mond, Ely O’Carrol, until he reached in safety, 
 with all his partisans, his own country. O’Sullivan 
 still clung with craving hope to his native rocks ; 
 but winter coming on, famine stared him and all 
 belonging to him in the face — for Wilmot had 
 wasted all Bear, Bantry, and the whole of Kerry 
 — not a cow, garrane, goat, or sheep did he leave 
 from Slieumiss to Glenflesk. O’Sullivan, there- 
 fore, consigning his wife and children to the care 
 of his faithful gossip, Gorrane M^Swiney, deter- 
 mined to follow TyrrePs example, and retreat to 
 the confederates that still held out in Breffny and 
 Ulster. He, therefore, trusting in God and 
 the Catholic cause, set out in company with Wil- 
 
32 
 
 GLENGARIFF. 
 
 / 
 
 liam Burke, O’Connor Kerry, and one hundred 
 faithful and veteran Bonnaughts. 
 
 ‘‘ Gorrane, whose whole soul was in his charge, 
 returned with them to a boolie he had set up 
 under the foot of the Eagle’s Precipice at Glen- 
 gariff. This boolie or hut was so contrived that 
 Wilmot and his Saxon devils, (as Gorrane called 
 them,) might scour the mountain over and never 
 see it, or suspect that there was in such a desert, 
 a human habitation. It was erected against the 
 face of a rocky ridge, the roof sloping down till 
 it touched the moor, was covered with scraws and 
 sods of heath, so that the place was undistinguish- 
 able from the shelving slope of the mountain, and 
 the entrance a long, distant, and winding passage 
 in the rock, and charcoal burned on the hearth 
 for fire — it was secure from suspicion. But how 
 was the princess of Bear and Bantry to be sup- 
 ported — not a cow was there to give milk, no 
 corn, nor root, nor pulse. Gorrane had one salted 
 salmon wrapped up in a cow’s hide ; that was all 
 his provision when they entered the boolie, and 
 where to go to seek for food, Gorrane knew not 
 under heaven — famine had spread over the land : 
 as Spencer says, ‘^the people of Munster were 
 brought to such wretchedness, that even a heart 
 of stone would have rued to see the same ; for out 
 of every corner of the woods and glynnes they 
 came creeping forth on their hands and knees, for 
 
GLENGARIFF. 
 
 33 
 
 their legs could not bear them ; they looked like 
 anatomies of death ; they spake like ghosts crying 
 out of their graves ; they did eat the dead carrion, 
 happy were they when they could find them ; yea, 
 and one another, sometime after ; insomuch that 
 the very carcases they spared not to scrape out 
 of their graves, and if they found a plot of water- 
 cresses or shamrock, there they flocked as to a 
 feast. 
 
 In this extremity of desolation was the south- 
 west of Cork and Desmond, when Gorrane took 
 home his charge to his boolie, and the poor fosterer 
 knew not what to do — all his trust was that God 
 was good, and the Virgin Mother, his protectress? 
 would not fail him in the hour of his need. And 
 as thus one morning he was ruminating, he ram- 
 bled under the precipice where, year after year, 
 the eagles of the valley had nested and reared 
 their young ; and, looking up, he saw one of these 
 huge birds sailing, on steady wing, with a hare 
 within its talons, and now it alighted on its rock- 
 nest, and anon the young eagles were shrieking 
 with triumph over the divided prey. VArrah, 
 now, is it not the greatest pity in life that these 
 young hell birds, that look for all the world like 
 the childer of these cramming beef-eating devils, 
 the Saxon churls — my heavy curse light upon 
 them all — that these greedy guts should be after 
 swallowing the game that nobody has any right 
 
 D 
 
34 
 
 GLENGARIFF. 
 
 / 
 
 to, but O’Sullivan ; and my sweet mistress, and 
 her little ones, all the while starving. Now, it’s I 
 that have a thought in my head, which no living 
 soul but the Virgin herself could have put into it, 
 and it’s myself knows what I will do.’ So home 
 Gorrane went, and all day long he was seen busy 
 twisting firmly, with all his might, a rope made 
 from the fibres of bog-fir, and, towards evening, 
 he took out from his store his salmon, and gave 
 the greater part to be broiled for supper, and, 
 long before the following day-break, Gorrane got 
 up from his bed of heath, and he awoke Phadrig 
 his son, a boy of about fourteen years old : 
 
 ‘ Phadrig, avich, get up ; come along with me.’ 
 The boy, light and active, was beside him in an 
 instant, and out they both started — the father with 
 his wooden rope in his hand. Just as the day was 
 breaking, they came to the brink of the mountain 
 ridge that ascends from the precipitous valley, 
 where the eagles build their nest ; and just as 
 they arrived at the verge of the chasm, they saw 
 the old eagles soaring away to meet the sun and 
 to seek for their prey over land and sea. ^ Pha- 
 drig, a cushla, look down there,’ says the father, 
 ‘ look down below, and see that bird’s nest — down 
 there you must go, by the help of this rope, if 
 you have any regard for the life of the mother 
 that bore you, and of the sweet mistress, for whom 
 we are bound to live or spend our blood and die. 
 
GLENGARIFF. 
 
 35 
 
 You must go down, by the help of this rope, and 
 tie these straps that I will give you round the 
 necks of yonder gaping greedy guts ; don’t choak 
 them for the life of you, but just tie their ugly 
 necks so tight that not one morsel can they swal- 
 low.’ ^And now, father, sure it’s I myself that 
 would desire no better sport than to get down and 
 wring their necks off, and bring them up to you ; 
 but sure, father, the Lady O’Sullivan must be 
 cruel hungry when she would eat eagles.’ ‘ O, 
 that would not do at all at all, Phadrig, jewel ; 
 that would be the spoiling without cure of the 
 whole thing — no, my honey, handle them gently, 
 treat the nasty things as if they were your mo- 
 ther’s daughters — only do, Phadrig, just as I bid 
 you.’ ‘ Well, father, mind you hold tight, and I 
 will do your bidding.’ So Gorrane fastened well 
 the rope about the boy’s waist and between his 
 legs, and down he lowered him, in the name of 
 God and all the saints. The youth soon got to 
 the nest — as he was bid, tightened well the necks 
 of the young eaglets, so that they could not swal- 
 low, and then he was safely drawn up. For an 
 hour or two the father and son waited near the 
 nest, and at length were gratified with seeing the 
 old ones come soaring down the wind, one with a 
 rabbit, another with a grouse in his talons, which 
 they deposited in the nest, and, after a time, flew 
 away. 
 
36 . 
 
 HUNGRY HILL. 
 
 “ ^ Now, Phadrig, avourneen, down with you 
 again, and, to be sure, it’s I that will hold you 
 tight; gut the game, throw the garbage to the 
 young ones — it’s right and nathral they should 
 have it — and bring up, under your two arms, 
 O’Sullivan’s rightful property.’ All this the boy 
 did, with address and expedition ; and in this 
 manner were the family in the boolie fed, until 
 the English retreated from the country, and the 
 wife of O’Sullivan and her faithful followers could 
 reach a place of more plenty and security.” 
 
 Beyond this. Ghoul (or Sugar Loaf) is about 
 two miles. 
 
 HUNGRY HILL. 
 
 The next place which calls for separate notice 
 is the waterfall of Hungry Hill. This is in a di- 
 rect line across the bay, about fourteen miles from 
 Bantry. The waterfall issues from a small lake 
 on the summit of the hill, which is said to be two 
 thousand feet above the level of the bay. Some- 
 thing is to be deducted from this height for the 
 elevation from which the hill may be considered 
 as rising ; but the unimpeded fall of a prodigious 
 column of water down a precipice of seven hundred 
 feet from the summit, needs no addition of height 
 to place it among the wonders of the natural 
 
GLANNMORE, CAHA, &c. 
 
 37 
 
 world. After this, the water comes into collision 
 with the craggy projections of the mountain side, 
 and thunders on its impetuous course — a broad 
 torrent of foam, and mist, and refracted sunbeams 
 — from height to height, till it gains the declivity 
 at the mountain base, from which it tumbles into 
 the bay. 
 
 GLANNMORE, CAHA, &c. 
 
 A few miles north of this, in the valley of 
 Glannmore, is a lake, which is by some thought 
 to be superior in beauty and picturesque effect to 
 any other of the western lakes. North-west of 
 Lord Bantry’s lodge, are the lakes of Caha — of 
 which there is one for every day in the year — 
 famous for their legendary associations. Of these 
 one is also observable for its scenic attractions. 
 
 These last mentioned places may be all visited 
 from Glengariff, and will require about three 
 days. Of these the first may be given to the 
 Glen, including Mr. White’s demesne ; the Eagle’s 
 Nest, Ghoul, and the Lakes of Caha, the second ; 
 and Hungry Hill, with Glannmore, the third. 
 
38 
 
 /. 
 
 BEARHAVEN, DUNBOY. 
 
 From Glengariff and Hungry Hill the tourist’s 
 attention will turn, with eager impatience, to Kil- 
 larney ; and we may now suppose him once more 
 directing his attention to the Pass. In the mean- 
 time, it will not be unacceptable to him to learn, 
 that if he had been led to pursue his progress 
 along the bay, he would find little to repay him 
 for the added fatigue and delay. On the main- 
 land, opposite the Island of Bear, stands the old 
 town of Castledermot, south-east from which 
 stood the celebrated fortress of Dunboy, which 
 was taken by Sir George Carew, in 1602, after 
 an obstinate resistance — an event of no small inte- 
 rest in the deeply discoloured thread of Irish his- 
 tory, as leading to the immediate termination of 
 the barbarous and exterminating warfare of which 
 that period and these wild scenes were the place 
 and time. In conducting the traveller through 
 this portion of his route, we have purposely 
 abstained from those lengthened separate notices 
 of traditionary personages, in whose half le- 
 gendary existence no one on earth feels any inte- 
 rest, save that which it derives from the orna- 
 mental addition of romance. Of this we acknow- 
 ledge the mysterious charm, and would most 
 gladly contribute our mite to the traditionary 
 
glengariff to killarney. 
 
 39 
 
 iiterest in the country of the O’Sullivans, but 
 for such notices of the history of this district as 
 can add any thing to its local interest, we must 
 refer to a very able and amusing book, entitled. 
 
 Sketches in Ireland,” and to Mr. Inglis’s recent 
 work ‘‘Journey through Ireland in 1834.” 
 
 GLENGARIFF TO KILLARNEY. 
 
 We may now suppose the tourist bound for 
 Killarney, in which case he can either cross the 
 Esk mountains, or return to Macroom and pro- 
 ceed by the post road from Cork. The present road 
 across the Esk Mountains, is eleven miles and a 
 half, and for half of the way is quite unfit for 
 a wheeled carriage of any kind. The luggage 
 can be sent by a horse and panniers, and the 
 steeper parts can be rode over with care. In this 
 way the tourist may either proceed on horseback, 
 or direct a car to meet him from Kenmare on the 
 other side of the mountain. Those who feel una- 
 ble to this mode of journeying, had better proceed 
 as already noticed by the post-road to Macroom. 
 
 It is pleasing to observe, however, that the line 
 of road now in progress from Glengariff to Ken- 
 mare is expected to be opened in 1837. This 
 road winds along the various mountain ranges at 
 a rate of ascent sufficiently easy for general traffic, 
 and exhibits in its progress the splendid scenery 
 
40 
 
 TOWN OF KENMARE, &c. 
 
 we have just glanced over, under numberless difie- 
 rent forms and combinations. In its progress to 
 avoid difficult ascents, it passes under three tun- 
 nels, one, six hundred feet in length, a second 
 eighty-four feet, and a third forty-five feet, and 
 finally approaches Kenmare by a suspension 
 bridge, of four hundred and ten feet, to be thrown 
 across the river under the town. 
 
 Independent of the advantages which this road 
 will afford in a national point of view, it will pre- 
 sent one of the best specimens of road engineer- 
 ing yet effected in this country ; and its connexion 
 with the beautiful line of road from Kenmare to 
 Killarney will throw open the most interesting 
 part of the south-west of Ireland. 
 
 The distance from Glengariff to Killarney by 
 Kenmare across Esk mountain, is twenty-six miles; 
 from Glengariff round by Macroom, forty-seven. 
 
 TOWN OF KENMARE, &c. 
 
 Kenmare is a small but very beautifully situated 
 town, on an arm of the sea called Kenmare Bay. 
 The bay is about twenty-six miles in length. The 
 town is in a very thriving state, and a commodious 
 pier, built at the joint expense of Government and 
 LordLansdowne, has lately been erected. The coun- 
 try around is improving rapidly, and in the vicinity 
 of the town are several respectable country seats. 
 
KENMARE TO KILLARNEY. 
 
 41 
 
 Soon after leaving Kenmare, the road sweeps 
 beautifully round the various cliffs and ravines 
 which diversify the southern side of the hill, and 
 after a continuous ascent of five miles, reaches the 
 short rocky pass of Coom Dhuv. — Winding along 
 the summits of the hills, you have on the left 
 distant views of Baum, the southern sides of the 
 Reeks, Gheramine, the gap of Dunloe, Purple 
 mountain and Mangerton ; on the right Cromig- 
 laun, Derry cunehy, Derry dimna, and the various 
 mountains in connexion with the Kenmare range. 
 Midway between Kenmare and Killarney is the 
 new Police Barrack, a remarkable building in this 
 part of the country, the style and site harmoniz- 
 ing with the wild scenery around. From various 
 parts of the hill, you have views of the valley of 
 CoomeeDhuv* and the Upper Lake of Killarney, 
 with all its islands and deep receding shores — as 
 also the river winding among the narrow defiles 
 formed by the large masses of rock which lie 
 scattered along the valley. A little below the 
 police barrack commences the splendid sylvan sce- 
 nery which is continued with little intermission to 
 the town, and through which the road passes, dis- 
 closing in its progress a succession of the most 
 picturesque views. In short, the scenery from the 
 police barrack to Mucruss, as seen from this road, 
 
 * This valley is quite distinct from the rocky pass of 
 Coom Dhuv noticed above. N.B. Dh is pronounced as 
 th in ‘ thou/ and u as in ‘ full.’ 
 
42 
 
 TOWN OF KILLARNEY. 
 
 will bear a comparison with any thing around 
 Killarney. We would recommend the tourist to 
 visit Derrycunehy Cascade and the cottage ad- 
 joining ; the Turk Cascade and views from the 
 seat over it ; to ascend Drumruark hill, (the first 
 stage in the ascent of Mangerton,) and also to 
 visit Mucruss Abbey and demesne. These diffe- 
 rent objects are close to the road, and in the order 
 we have stated them. For particulars of the road 
 from Mucruss to Killarney, as also the village of 
 Cloghereen, through which the traveller must pass, 
 we now particularly direct his attention to our 
 succeeding pages, as it may facilitate his arrange- 
 ments to stop at the inn of Cloghereen. 
 
 TOWN OF KILLARNEY. 
 
 The town of Killarney is situated in the rich 
 tract of land which stretches along the northern 
 and eastern shores of the Lower Lake. It princi- 
 pally consists of two good streets, from which branch 
 off numerous lanes and narrow alleys. In the 
 town there are no buildings deserving particular 
 notice. The Church and Roman Catholic Clia- 
 pel are small and in nowise remarkable. There 
 are two good inns directly opposite the church, 
 the Kenmare Arms, and King’s Arms, and two 
 reading rooms, to which strangers are admitted. 
 Two mail coaches arrive daily, that from Cork 
 
TOWN OF KILLARNEY 
 
 43 
 
 on its way to Tralee, and a branch from the Lime- 
 rick and Tralee from Castle Island. According to 
 the last census, the town contains seven thousand 
 nine hundred and ten inhabitants. The town is 
 part of the estate of Earl Ken mare, but, as Mr. 
 Inglis observes in his tour, being held under 
 leases for ever. Lord Kenmare has no power of 
 improvement in his hands ; and this is greatly to 
 be regretted, for a better man or a better landlord 
 than Lord Kenmare does not exist; and were it 
 not for the employment afforded on his estate, by 
 this wealthy, resident, and spirited nobleman, the 
 pauperism in Killarney would be fearfully great.** 
 The mansion of Earl Kenmare is close to the 
 town. In its exterior it is a plain old-fashioned 
 building, and the interior is arranged and fur- 
 nished in a style conformable thereto. The de- 
 mesne surrounds the town — the latter and the 
 public roads separating the higher from the lower 
 grounds. The pleasure grounds and gardens 
 connected with the house are on a very extensive 
 scale, and admirably kept. In short, the gar- 
 dens, farm, and park, are suited to the general cha- 
 racter of the place ; and are all, on application, 
 open to visiters. Connected with Kenmare de- 
 mesne and the general scenery of Killarney, is 
 Park, the residence of Mr. Cronin. The grounds 
 originally formed part of the Kenmare deer park 
 — the old oak woods of which are a part of the 
 background of the town, as seen from the Lower 
 
 t 
 
44 
 
 TOWN OF KILLARNEY. 
 
 Lake and its opposite shores* To the eastward of 
 Mr. Cronin’s is Flesk Castle, the seat of Mr. Colts- 
 man. This modern castellated mansion, as well 
 from the character of the building, as from the 
 elevated situation it occupies, forms one of the 
 principal features on this side of the town. Near 
 this, and on the banks of the Flesk River, (one of 
 the principal supplies to the Lower Lake,) are se- 
 veral beautifully situated villas, forming together a 
 long line of well planted country, and giving to the 
 higher grounds, above the Kenmare road, a rich, 
 cheerful, and cultivated [appearance They also 
 serve to connect, in that direction, the improve- 
 ments around Killarney with the natural woods 
 of Mucruss. On the north side of the demesne 
 is Prospect, the seat of the Hon. Mr. Brown, bro- 
 ther of Lord Kenmare; and at about two miles 
 northward of Prospect, is Aghadoe, the elegant 
 lodge of Lord Headley. It is beautifully situated on 
 the rising grounds, beyond the ruins of Aghadoe 
 Church, and commands delightful views of the 
 Lake and surrounding scenery. His lordship is 
 carrying on very extensive improvements, and his 
 plantations, already stretching along the high 
 grounds, will greatly enhance the beauty of this 
 part of the country. 
 
 There are numerous private lodgings in Kil- 
 larney, many of which are comfortably fitted up, 
 and are let moderately. Cars, post chaises, po- 
 nies, &:c. may be had in abundance, also excel- 
 
ROSS ISLAND. 
 
 45 
 
 lent boats and regular boatmen at the different 
 hotels. Boats and cars can also be hired from 
 various people in the town. Should a party 
 purpose dining at either of the cottages on 
 Innisfallen, Glena, or Dinis Island, it will be 
 necessary to give due notice, as to the number of 
 the party and the hour of dinner This, however, 
 the innkeepers generally arrange. Lord Kenmare 
 has, with great liberality, repaired and furnished 
 the banquetting house at Glena. A new banquet- 
 ting house is commenced on Innisfallen Island, 
 and it is to be hoped that Mr. Herbert will soon 
 repair the decayed cottage on Dinis Island. 
 
 A small comfortable hotel, and several other 
 good houses, have lately been built in the vil- 
 lage of Cloghereen ; and as the village is cen- 
 trally and conveniently situated, there is no doubt 
 but that, under proper encouragement on the part 
 of the wealthy proprietor, Mr. Herbert, it would 
 soon become a place of general resort. It is si- 
 tuated at the base of Mangerton, close to Mu- 
 cruss Abbey and Turk mountain, and nearly 
 midway between the Upper Lake and the town 
 of Killarney. 
 
 ROSS ISLAND, 
 
 The largest of those in the Lower Lake, con- 
 taining one hundred acres, is connected, by a 
 
46 
 
 ROSS ISLAND. 
 
 causeway and bridge, with the main land : in sum- 
 mer, the morass, separating the island from the 
 continent, is completely dry ; but in winter, Ross 
 becomes again perfectly insulated. On this Island, 
 or rather peninsula, stands Ross castle, which held 
 out so obstinately, under Lord Muskerry, in 1632, 
 against the English, commanded by General 
 Ludlow. 
 
 Upon the 26th of July, in that year, at Knockni- 
 clachy, in the county of Cork, a battle was fought 
 between Lord Muskerry, at the head of the Irish, 
 and the Lord Broghil, commander of the English 
 forces, in which the former were defeated with 
 great slaughter, and Colonel Mac-Gillicuddy, a 
 native of Kerry, and greatly beloved by the Irish, 
 slain. Upon this defeat. Lord Muskerry withdrew 
 to Ross Castle, whither he was followed by Ge- 
 neral Ludlow, with a body of four thousand foot 
 and two hundred horse.* This experienced officer 
 and upright statesman thus describes the siege of 
 Ross Castle : — In this expedition I was accompa- 
 nied by the Lord Broghill, and Sir Hardress WaL 
 ler,f major-general of the foot. Being arrived 
 at this place, I was informed that the enemy rer 
 ceived continual supplies from those parts that lay 
 on the other side, and were covered with woods 
 
 * Ludlow’s Memoirs, Vol. I. p. 415. f One of the 
 Judges of King Charles I. 
 
ROSS ISLAND. 
 
 47 
 
 and mountains ; whereupon I sent a party of two 
 thousand foot to clear those woods, and to find 
 out some convenient place for erecting a fort, if 
 there should be occasion. These forces met with 
 some opposition, but at last they routed the 
 enemy, killing some, and taking others prisoners ; 
 the rest saved themselves by their good footman- 
 ship. Whilst this was doing, I employed that 
 part of the army which was with me in fortifying 
 a neck of land, where I designed to leave a party 
 to keep in the Irish on this side, that I might be 
 at liberty, with the greatest part of the horse and 
 foot, to look after the enemy abroad, and to re- 
 ceive and convoy such boats, and other things 
 necessary, as the commissioners sent us by sea. 
 When we had received our boats, each of which 
 was capable of containing one hundred and 
 twenty men, I ordered one of them to be rowed 
 about the water, in order to find out the most 
 convenient place for landing upon the enemy ; 
 which they perceiving, thought fit, by a timely 
 submission, to prevent the danger that threatened 
 them ; and, having expressed their desires to that 
 purpose, commissioners were appointed on both 
 parts to treat.” 
 
 The garrison of Ross castle was greatly intimi- 
 dated, and urged to a surrender, by the appear- 
 ance of an armed vessel floating on lough Lein ; 
 for there was a prophecy amongst the inhabitants, 
 
48 
 
 EOSS ISLAND. 
 
 that the castle would not be taken until a vessel 
 of war was seen to swim upon the Lake. The 
 fact is, that nothing would have been more im- 
 probable than that a ship of war should ever have 
 appeared upon the Lake of Killarney ; and had it 
 not been for the unerring energy of Ludlow, in 
 the discharge of his trust, the long boats, sent by 
 the parliament to Castlemain, had never been 
 hauled up shallow streams, and carried over rug- 
 ged tracts of land. 
 
 The surrender of this castle terminated hosti- 
 lities in Munster, and induced about five thousand 
 of the Irish to lay down their arms. The condi- 
 tions of the treaty of Ross castle were accurately 
 fulfilled by parliament, by which Lord Broghil 
 was granted one thousand pounds yearly, out of 
 the estates of Lord Muskery. 
 
 The castle, which was built by the family of 
 O’Donoghoe-Ross,* is now an important ruin, 
 standing upon a rock : it consists of a lofty, 
 square building, with embattled parapets, formerly 
 enclosed by a curtain wall, having round flankers 
 at each corner, the ruins of which are yet visible. 
 The interior possesses some extremely well pro- 
 portioned apartments ; and from the battlements 
 may be had a most extensive panoramic view of 
 
 * So called to distinguish them from that of O’Do- 
 noghoe-More. 
 
ROSS ISLAND. 
 
 49 
 
 Mangerton, Turk, Glena, and all the surrounding 
 scenery. 
 
 Ross Island now forms a part of Lord Ken- 
 mare’s demesne. One of the principal nurseries 
 for the supply of trees and shrubs is here ; and 
 the head forester resides on the Island in a most 
 delightful cottage. Walks and drives have been 
 lately formed around and through various parts 
 of the island, taking advantage of the numerous 
 views which the bold rocky shores present. Here 
 the native Arbutus may be seen in the greatest 
 perfection, intermingled with the holly and yew in 
 the wildest luxuriance, and covering even the 
 most exposed cliffs of the far projecting promon- 
 tories, as well as the deep receding bays of the 
 highly varied shores. 
 
 The small building, which some time ago was 
 erected against one of the side walls of the castle 
 for the accommodation of a company of soldiers, 
 has been unroofed, and the walls so broken as to 
 harmonize with the ruin. The platform around 
 the castle has been cleared — walks made by the 
 eastern terrace parapet — and various climbing 
 shrubs planted against the castle walls. As alrea- 
 dy noticed, there is a fine view of the Lower Lake 
 and scenery around, from the top of the castle ; 
 and were there a thin metallic awning thrown 
 over the upper room, (so as not to be seen from 
 the outside,) the windows a little enlarged, and 
 
 I 
 
50 
 
 ROSS ISLAND. 
 
 the floor made good, it would at all seasons afford 
 an opportunity to many of seeing the magnificent 
 scenery around, who are not disposed to boating. 
 
 Lead and copper were formerly found here in 
 considerable abundance ; the working of the 
 mines, is, however, given up. 
 
 It is Lord Kenmare’s intention to remove the 
 higli walls which were built by the mining com-* 
 pany on the south side of the island, to protect 
 their works from the south-west storms, and to re- 
 store in a degree the natural outlines. Limestone 
 abounds on the island, and protruding in the most 
 fantastic shapes, forms the bold cliffs and rocky 
 shores. 
 
 The shores of Ross island are beautiful and 
 interesting in the extreme, being deeply indented, 
 and possessing endless variety of commanding 
 promontory, and retiring bay ; the rocks along its 
 margin are worn into the most fanciful shapes, for 
 every group of which the helms-man is supplied 
 with an appropriate appellation ; the most aptly 
 denominated are those to be seen in passing from 
 Ross bay to Inisfallen, called the Books. 
 
 Immediately opposite the little wharf, erected 
 for convenience of strangers embarking, is Lord 
 Kenmare's boat-house, where a number of large 
 boats, in excellent order, are sheltered and pre- 
 served for the public use, the deep water, at that 
 side of the bay, being the most desirable for this 
 
O’DONOHOE’S PRISON. 
 
 51 
 
 purpose. Near the boat-house is a spot from 
 whence the effect of a bugle, with the mouth di- 
 rected to Ross castle, infinitely exceeds any other 
 echo to be met with about the Lakes ; the first 
 echo is returned from the castle, the second from 
 the ruined church of Aghadoe, the third from 
 Mangerton, and, afterwards, innumerable reverbe- 
 rations are distinguished, which appear like the 
 faded brilliancy of an extremely multiplied re- 
 flexion, lost by distance and repetition. 
 
 Besides having the advantage of an expanse of 
 water, with a tranquil surface, such as lough Lein 
 possesses in a mild summer’s evening, the castle is 
 situated in the centre of an amphitheatre of moun- 
 tains. For these reasons it is, that the return of 
 sound from Ross castle, at evening time, will be 
 found more curious than in any other situation 
 about the Lakes, contrary to the general belief, 
 and of this the tourist can satisfy himself by ex- 
 periment. 
 
 O’DONOHOE’S PRISON. 
 
 Leaving Ross bay, the lower Lake expands 
 itself in glorious majesty ; the promontories of 
 Ross castle to the left of the fore-ground, O’Do- 
 nohoe’s Prison and Inisfallen to the right ; and 
 immediately opposite, but at a distance of about 
 
 E 2 
 
52 
 
 O’DONOHOE’S PRISON. 
 
 two miles, Tomies and Glena mountains rise, in 
 the most abrupt, bold, precipitous manner, from 
 the surface of the waters, having their bases 
 thickly wooded with oaks and hollies. O’Dono* 
 hoe’s Prison is a perpendicular rock, thirty feet 
 above the general surface of the waters ; it does 
 not appear to be covered by a coat of earth suf- 
 ficient to give nutriment to the smallest plant, yet, 
 upon its very summit, shooting from the fissures 
 of the rock, the arbutus, ash, and holly, may be 
 seen, adorned with the most luxuriant foliage. 
 
 The tradition relative to O’Donohoe states him 
 to have been a man of gigantic stature, warlike 
 boldness, and great bodily strength : upon this 
 rock the most obstinate of his enemies were 
 doomed to perish by cold or famine, or were 
 bound in fetters until they acknowledged submis- 
 sion to his will. Plis native historians relate, that, 
 being pursued by a number of enemies, upon one 
 occasion, his charger, in attempting to cross a 
 morass, sunk below the saddle bow, upon which 
 the herculean rider dismounted, and, placing a 
 stone under each of his feet, pulled his gallant 
 steed completely out by the ears. The shade of 
 O’Donohoe,* says his traditionary biographers, 
 still haunts the scenes of his former greatness, and 
 
 * For the legend of O’Donohoe, see the Poem of Kil- 
 larney^ 
 
INISFALLEN ISLAND. 
 
 53 
 
 is seen moving on the surface of the waters at 
 particular periods; the memory of his snow- 
 white steed is perpetuated by a rock, not unlike a 
 horse drinking, near the shores of Mucruss, which 
 preserves the name of O’Donohoe’s horse. 
 
 To the north of O’Donohoe’s Prison are Her- 
 ron and Lamb islands, and to the west, Brown or 
 Rabbit island : this last is only remarkable for its 
 quarries of limestone, which are worked for the 
 purposes of manuring land : latterly the trees 
 have growm up so much on this once desolate 
 waste, that it considerably relieves the monoto- 
 nous character of the northern extremity of the 
 Lake. Not far from Ross island, and between it 
 and Inisfallen, is a little rock, crowned with rich 
 foliage, which, from its diminutive appearance, is 
 called Mouse island. 
 
 INISFALLEN ISLAND. 
 
 More to the west is seen the island of Inisfallen, 
 a fertile and enchanting spot, containing eighteen 
 acres of land, and richly clothed with wood. 
 There are only two landing places, although the 
 shore is indented by numerous sinuosities, owing 
 to the shallows on 900 side, and the bold rocks on 
 the other ; however, a convenient mole for dis- 
 embarking has been erected at one of them, and 
 
54 
 
 INISFALLEN ISLAND. 
 
 nature has provided accommodation for the visiter 
 at the other. The view of Inisfallen, on the ap- 
 proach from any side, is of a totally different 
 character from that of any other island on the 
 lake ; it impresses the visiter with an idea of 
 luxuriance, comfort, and tranquillity ; the surface 
 of the glebe is spread with the brightest verdure, 
 over which flourish, in rich foliage, the greatest 
 possible varieties of trees and shrubs. Groups of 
 lofty oaks fling their arms over the sward beneath, 
 and the intervals between them are generally 
 occupied by various shrubs, so that only an occa- 
 sional glimpse is permitted, through the woods, of 
 the Lake and distant mountains ; occasional open- 
 ings are left, where the richest imaginable pasture 
 is unfolded, beautified by an undulating surface, 
 and embosomed in sylvan scenery. In walking 
 round the island, the variety to be met with, 
 in so small compass, almost exceeds belief, and 
 delights the admirer of the soft, the beautiful, and 
 the gentle in nature, to ecstacy. Here a forest 
 scene, in whose centre stands the royal oak; a 
 little farther, trees of less commanding, but not 
 less beautiful aspect, present themselves. The 
 loftiest trees enclose and shelter occasional lawns, 
 affording the richest pasturage, while the smaller 
 shrubs crowd so closely together, as to form an 
 impenetrable barrier. In some places gleams of 
 light pour through the thickening shade, and en- 
 
INISFALLEN ISLAND. 
 
 55 
 
 liven the retirement of the interior ; and, again, 
 an opening to the Lake recals the idea of the 
 watery boundaries, which here seclude us so com- 
 pletely from the scenes of the busy world, and 
 induce us to reflect upon our remoteness from the 
 haunts of men. The very trees, in their rarity of 
 species and form, appear to rival the surface of 
 the island itself ; a gradually ascending hill sinks 
 into a pleasing vale, and this swelling and undula- 
 tion of the surface, which art has never been able 
 to effect, exists in such pleasing variety, that the 
 imagination of the artist could not conceive, nor 
 his pencil execute, more varied slopes, more 
 gently falling declivities, or more pleasing inequa- 
 lities on the face of a landscape. 
 
 Oak, ash, alder, holly, both bald and prickly, 
 with the arbutus, grow spontaneously and luxu- 
 riantly in every part of the island ; the service 
 (or Sorbus) tree, is also to be found here. Smith 
 (in his History of Kerry) seems to think that 
 these trees were planted by the monks of Inis- 
 fallen, contrary to the general opinion of the 
 natives, who, finding them to be the production of 
 every other island equally, conclude they are the 
 natural product of the soil. 
 
 In one part of the island a holly is shown, the 
 circumference of whose stem measures fourteen 
 feet ; in another place, a large hawthorn has made 
 its way completely through the centre of a monu- 
 
56 
 
 INISFALLEN ISLAND. 
 
 mental stone in the vicinity of the monastery. 
 At the northern extremity of the island stands a 
 crab-tree, in the trunk of which is a large oblong 
 aperture, called the eye of the needle the 
 guide, who points out this phenomenon, never 
 fails to recommend ladies through it, in conse- 
 quence of a certain charm which he assures them 
 this adventure will call into action. At the most 
 remote extremity of the island, a projecting rock 
 overshadowed by an aged yew, is designated the 
 “ bed of honour.”^ 
 
 * This appellation was first bestowed in commemora- 
 tion of a fact which might well take its place among the 
 romantic legends of the scene. A daughter of some of 
 the ancient monarchs, who dwelt among these lakes, had 
 been contracted by the king her father, to some one of 
 the neighbouring potentates ; who, in those glorious times of 
 old, were as plenty as potatoes in our degenerate days. 
 The young princess, however, as youthful princesses wull, 
 took it into her head, one fine evening, to run away with 
 some fortunate prince, who, according to the romance of 
 the times, clandestinely sought her affections. Despairing 
 to escape within the dominions of her royal sire, which were 
 so surrounded by the territory of the other high contracting 
 party, that to pass beyond them wmuld be to fall out of 
 the frying pan into the fire, the gentle pair took boat, and, 
 rowing round this island, concealed themselves for the 
 night in a lonely cave. Next morning, by day-break, they 
 were disagreeably roused from their first sleep by a tre- 
 mendous tantimarara of trumpets, and drums, and angry 
 voices. They thought the mountain echoes had never 
 
INISF ALLEN ISLAND. 
 
 57 
 
 Not far from the harbour, where visiters gene- 
 rally land, are the ruins of an ancient monastery, 
 founded by St. Finian Lobhar, (or the Leper.) 
 the son of Alild, King of Munster, and disciple of 
 St. Brendan, towards the close of the sixth cen- 
 tury. In the year 640, St. Dichull was abbot, 
 who, with his brothers Munissa and Nerlugis, 
 were worshipped by the votaries at Inisfallen, and 
 the island was then called Inis-Nessan, or Inis- 
 
 souiided so harshly before ; and, not having read “ Young 
 on Sound,” or the still more learned volume of ‘‘ Matthew, 
 Lord Bishop of Clonfert,” they felt that they had been be- 
 trayed by the fairies, who replied, with ferocious laughter, 
 “ from the peripheries of the series of concentric circles ” 
 which a distinguished modern tourist has recently disco- 
 vered to surround Loch Lein. It was useless to hold out 
 against fates and fairies, and the allied powers ; so the gal- 
 lant young prince stepped forth, and offered (some of these 
 arch wags, the antient chroniclers of Ireland, hint that the 
 offer was sincere) to restore the princess, if, after what had 
 just occurred, his rival had no objection to take her. The 
 other promptly replied that he had none ; convinced of the 
 honor of his youthful rival, and the spotless purity of the 
 princely maid, he would as willingly espouse her now as 
 before. The young prince was thus taken at his word, and 
 had, of course, nothing more to do but to take a pinch of 
 snuff, (the real Irish, we presume,) and return thanks 
 for the compliment. The grotto, thus distinguished by this 
 romantic incident, was somewhat archly called the ‘‘bed of 
 honor,” by one of the bridesmaids, a name which it has 
 ever since borne. 
 
58 
 
 INISFALLEN ISLAND. 
 
 Mac-Nessan, e, the island of the sons of Nessan, 
 from Nessan, the father of Dichull. The name 
 Inis-Nessan has been rejected for its present very 
 appropriate designation, Inisfallen, the beautiful or 
 healthy island^ or Inisfaithlen, the island in the 
 beautiful lahe ; this lake is called by Colgan, 
 Lough Lein, and the Lake of Desmond, indiscri- 
 minately. The latter name was borrowed from 
 the Earls of Desmond, once petty princes in 
 Kerry, but whose greatness has long since gone 
 by. 
 
 After the abbacy of Dichull, a considerable 
 hiatus occurs in the annals, and neither abbot nor 
 occurrence is registered until 1180, if we except 
 the name of one abbot, Flannan : “ at this pe- 
 riod,’' says Archdall, this abbey being ever es- 
 teemed a paradise and a secure sanctuary, the 
 treasure and most valuable effects of the whole 
 country were deposited in the hands of its clergy; 
 notwithstanding which, the abbey was plundered 
 by Maolduin, son of Daniel O’Donaghoe — many 
 of the clergy were slain, and even in their ceme- 
 tery, by the M^Carthys : but God soon punished 
 this act of impiety and sacrilege, by bringing 
 many of its authors to an untimely end.” 
 
 It is said, that a collection of bones were dis- 
 covered beneath the threshold of the oratory 
 hanging over the river, which Weld supposes to 
 have been the bones of the clergy slain by the 
 
INISFALLEN ISLAND. 
 
 59 
 
 O’Donaghoes in 1180 ; but why not suppose them 
 to be rather of more recent date, viz. 1652, when 
 the vicinity of Lough Lein was wasted by fire 
 and sword, by Ludlow and the parliament’s 
 army ? 
 
 The annals are continued uninterruptedly down 
 to 1320, but do not contain any matter of inte- 
 rest. In 1320, Dermod McCarthy, King of Des- 
 mond, who was murdered at Tralee, was interred 
 here. The writer of the early part of the annals of 
 Inisfallen, lived only to the year 1215, from which 
 period to J320 they are continued by another his- 
 torian. These annals contain a history of the 
 world from the creation to the year 430, after 
 which they treat solely of Irish history : a perfect * 
 cop 3 ^ of them is preserved in the library of the 
 Duke of Chandos, according to Bishop Nicholson, 
 and there is an imperfect copy in the manuscript- 
 room in the University of Dublin. The Dublin 
 Society possess a copy of Sir James Ware’s MSS- 
 of these annals, translated by Walter Harris, the 
 Irish antiquarian. 
 
 By an inquisition, taken the eighteenth of 
 August, in the thirty-seventh year of Elizabeth, 
 the monks of Inisfallen appeared to be possessed 
 of one hundred and twenty acres of arable land, 
 with four town and three plough lands, together 
 with extensive church patronage in the county of 
 Limerick ; all which, besides the abbey of Irre- 
 
60 
 
 INISFALLEN ISLAND. 
 
 lagh (Mucruss) and its possessions, were granted 
 to Robert Collan, for ever, in fee farm by fealty 
 only, in common soccage, at an annual rent of 
 seventy-two pounds, three shillings, sterling. 
 
 The ruins of the abbey are very inconsiderable, 
 and the workmanship of what still remains, ex- 
 tremely rude ; indeed, there can be but little hesi- 
 tation in pronouncing the remains of the mo- 
 nastery, now pointed out, not to have been part 
 of the original building. There was a garden 
 attached to the monastery, and a few plum-trees 
 are shown close to. the ruined walls, which, it is 
 supposed, were planted by the religious inhabi- 
 tants of the island ; from one of the walls of the 
 cloister a very picturesque yew shoots up. The 
 only trace of the ancient edifices erected on this 
 island, which possesses the character of the archi- 
 tecture of those times, is an oratory, standing on 
 a projecting cliff, at the south-eastern extremity of 
 the island, on either side of which are the coves 
 where strangers land. The door-case is a Saxon 
 arch, enriched with chevron ornament, one side of 
 which is quite perfect, and very beautiful ; but 
 the soft stone of which it was composed has 
 yielded to the decay of a lapse of centuries. This 
 little oratory has been fitted up by Lord Ken- 
 mare, as a banquetting room : in one side is placed 
 a large bay-window, from which a delightful view 
 may be had of Ross island, Mucruss shore, Man- 
 
INISFALLEN ISLAND. 
 
 61 
 
 gerton, Turk, and Glena. Some have thought the 
 oratory profaned by being repaired in its present 
 manner; but the truth is, that had it not been 
 converted into its present purpose, it would, like 
 the adjacent mouldering walls of the monastery, 
 have now been nearly level to the ground. 
 
 The noble proprietor has made arrangements 
 to build a beautiful and more commodious ban- 
 quetting house in the centre of the island, and 
 walks, following its general outline, have lately 
 been formed for the comfort of visiters. Inis- 
 fallen, although not one fourth of the size of 
 Ross, is certainly the most delightful of all the 
 islands on the lakes. The scenery, as modified 
 by a beautifully varied surface and fine old de- 
 tached trees and shrubs, is of a more soft and gen- 
 tle character than is generally to be met with 
 around Killarney. Both trees and shrubs have 
 attained to a considerable size. Several yews 
 with stems from five to seven feet in height before 
 they branch off, are in circumference from seven to 
 ten feet. There is a fine old holly girthing at one 
 foot from the ground, ten feet, it carries this girth 
 for five feet, when it branches off to a round head. 
 
 The extraordinary fantastic forms of the lime- 
 stone on this as well as on all the other shores of 
 the islands of the Lower Lakes, cannot fail to 
 arrest the attention of even the most casual obser- 
 ver. 
 
 § 
 
62 
 
 O’SULLIVAN’S CASCADE. 
 
 Leaving the island of Inisfallen, and sailing out 
 into the broad expanse of waters, a grand moun- 
 tain view presents itself ; Tomies and Glena di- 
 rectly opposite, the group of hills closing up the 
 entrance to the Upper Lake adjacent to them, and 
 Turk and Mangerton to the south. Owing to the 
 low, swampy grounds to the east and north of the 
 Lower Lake, and the complete absence of moun- 
 tains, the remaining prospect quite fails in exciting 
 that interest which the visiter will expect to find 
 created by every scene in the neighbourhood of 
 Killarney. The rising grounds of Aghadoe afford 
 a rest for the eye, but they are too insignificant to 
 form a back ground to the view. The mountains 
 of Tralee are seen at a distance, but too remote to 
 produce any effect, save at noon or evening, 
 when a distant outline harmonizes beautifully 
 with the character and colouring of the scene. 
 Here, then, is the most extensive sheet of unin- 
 terrupted water amongst all the enchanting 
 Lakes ; and here the only danger in boating on 
 them is to be apprehended, chiefly originating in 
 the difficulty of getting under shelter with suffi- 
 cient expedition, when a hurricane sweeps down 
 the mountains’ side, and rages over the surface of 
 the waters; whereas, in any other part of the 
 
O’SULLIVAN’S CASCADE. 
 
 63 
 
 Lakes, islands are so numerous, that it is hardly 
 possible to be many minutes’ sail direct from 
 land. 
 
 Steering towards Tomies mountains, which is 
 about one mile and a half from Inisfallen, the eye 
 is delighted by the never-ending variety and 
 change of scenery, momentarily occurring ; at 
 first, Tomies and Glen a appear rising abruptl}^ 
 from the water, half clothed with hanging woods, 
 and rearing their naked summits to the skies ; 
 upon a nearer approach, they hide their rugged 
 heads, and present a range of forest, nearly six 
 miles in length, and apparently occupying the 
 entire face of the mountains. Reaching the base 
 of Tomies, a little bay is perceived, where is a 
 small quay, of rude workmanship, completely 
 characteristic of the scene : on landing, a rugged 
 pathway, along the bank of a foaming torrent, and 
 winding through an almost impenetrable forest, 
 conducts to the famous waterfall, called O’Sulli- 
 van’s Cascade. The roaring of the torrent, 
 dashing with violent agitation from rock to rock, 
 kindles expectation to the highest, and the water- 
 fall retires so far into the deep bosom of a wooded 
 glen, that, though almost deafened by its roar, 
 you do not catch even a glimpse, until it bursts at 
 once upon the view. 
 
 The cascade consists of three distinct falls; the 
 uppermost, passing over a ridge of rock, falls 
 
64 
 
 O’SULIJVAN’S CASCADE. 
 
 about twenty feet perpendicularly into a natural 
 basin beneath, then, making its way between two 
 hanging rocks, the torrent hastens down a second 
 precipice into a similar receptacle, from which 
 second depository, concealed from the view, it 
 rolls over into the lowest chamber of the fall. 
 
 Beneath a projecting rock, overhanging the 
 lowest basin, is a grotto, with a seat rudely cut in 
 the rock. 
 
 Fronte sub ad versa scopulis pendentibus antrum 
 vivoque sedilia saxo. 
 
 Virg. ^neid, i. 170. 
 
 From tfiis little grotto the view of the cascade 
 is peculiarly beautiful and interesting : it appears 
 a continued flight of three unequally elevated 
 foamy stages. The recess is encompassed by 
 rocks, and overshadowed by an arch of foliage, so 
 thick as to interrupt the admission of light ; the 
 height of the cascade is about seventy feet, and 
 the body of water so considerable, that the noise 
 soon becomes intolerable. Such a combination 
 of circumstances can hardly fail to produce the 
 effect of grandeur and sublimity in a very striking 
 manner. 
 
 The stranger not unfrequently sits down to rest 
 within the grotto of O’Sullivan, to contemplate 
 and reflect upon the beauties and the works of 
 
O’SULLIVAN’S CASCADE. 
 
 65 
 
 nature, and, unless his nerves be of considerable 
 strength, he may chance to be somewhat startled 
 by the sudden appearance of visiters on each side 
 of him ; these are the inhabitants of the glens 
 and valleys in the mountain’s bosom, who, per- 
 ceiving the boat making for the shore, hasten to 
 greet the stranger in the rustic cave, and present 
 him with the wild fruit of their happy vales. 
 
 The appellation of ‘‘ O'* Sullivan ' is bestowed 
 upon this fall, from an illustrious family of the 
 name, who were proprietors of the barony of 
 Dunkerron^ formerly called O’Sullivan’s country, 
 and were styled princes by the Irish. 
 
 Embarking at the rude, unfinished causeway, 
 before mentioned, and coasting along the base of 
 Tomies and Glena, the scene increases in pic- 
 turesque efifect with every effort of the rowers : 
 the woods of Tomies are not so luxuriant as those 
 of Glena, being interspersed with birch, while the 
 oak and arbutus in the woods of Glena enrich the 
 view wdth colouring of a deeper dye. 
 
 In this voyage the deepest water is sailed over, 
 at the bottom of which the peasantry, inhabiting 
 the borders of the Lake, assert that a species of 
 precious stone, called a carbuncle, is to be seen in 
 clear weather. O’Flaherty mentions that pearls 
 have been found in this Lake, “ JEt in eo stagno 
 margaritce multce reperiuntur, quas ponunt reges in 
 auribus suis latterly but few have been found 
 
 F 
 
66 
 
 O’SULLIVAN’S CASCADE. 
 
 in the Lake itself, but several in the river 
 Laune.* 
 
 Amethysts have been frequently found in the 
 county of Kerry ; the Earl of Shelbourne had 
 some very valuable stones of this description 
 gathered here ; and the Countess of Kerry pre- 
 sented a necklace and ear-rings of amethysts, 
 found near Kerry Head, to Caroline, Queen of 
 George 11. 
 
 In coasting along the bases of the majestic 
 Tomies and Glena, towards the Upper Lake, 
 several islands are passed, particularly Stag and 
 Burnt islands, near Glena Point, under which a 
 narrow channel is formed by an island called 
 Darby’s Garden. The cockswain generally in- 
 forms visiters, that this island was so called from 
 an angler of that name, who addressed Lord 
 Kenmare, as he passed in his yawl to the Upper 
 Lake, and besought the commonage of this rock 
 from his lordship : but the stranger will find that 
 much more trifling occurrences have been the 
 occasions of naming the islands of Killarney. 
 
 Leaving Castle-Lough bay, studded with is- 
 lands, and Mucruss promontory, to the left, the 
 
 * The similarity of proper names, in England and Ire- 
 land, has induced a strong belief of the identity of the 
 original languages of both countries : thus the Laune is the 
 same as Lune, which runs by Lancaster, and is pronounced 
 Lune, by the inhabitants of Killarney. Top. Hib. 
 
BAY OF GLENA. 
 
 67 
 
 usual course is under the woods of Glena; per- 
 haps there is scarcely any thing in the sublime, 
 the picturesque, and beautiful, that is not il- 
 lustrated in the bay of Glena; — the majestic 
 Turk, the gloomy Mangerton, with a continued 
 chain of dark and lofty mountains behind them ; 
 then the entrance to Turk Lake, and the channel 
 to the upper, possessing beauty and variety ; with 
 the bay of Glena, sheltered by a lofty hill, pos- 
 sessing the scenic character of both the others. 
 The summit of Glena is barren and rugged, while 
 the base is clothed with a deep mass of unbroken 
 wood, of rich and varied shades, dipping their 
 foliage in the water. 
 
 Under the rock called the Minister’s Back, a 
 stream which here separates the estates of Lord 
 Kenmare and Mr. Herbert, forms in its progress 
 to the Lake a pretty fall. It is not so large as 
 the others, but from the singular openings and 
 disposition of the wood, the scenery connected 
 with it is strikingly different from that which 
 generally prevails. 
 
 In the bay of Glena will be found a most 
 pleasing echo, from the impending mountains, 
 which is much increased in strength and distinct- 
 ness of articulation by the auditor being stationed 
 at a considerable interval from the origin of the 
 sound. This may be readily accomplished, and 
 to the best possible advantage, by a party, at- 
 
68 
 
 BAY OF GLENA. 
 
 / 
 
 tended by two boats, having placed the buglemao 
 in one of them, in the best position for producing 
 an echo, and then rowing away some distance. 
 This echo, like all others, is much improved by 
 the stillness of evening. 
 
 In the bay of Glena is an excellent fishery of 
 salmon, trout, and perch, but there are no pike in 
 the Lake. Parties intending to dine at Glena 
 cottage are tolerably secure of being provided 
 with a salmon, taken for the occasion, and dressed 
 in a very peculiar manner. The salmon fishery is 
 let for an annual sum, on condition that the per- 
 sons taking it supply the market of Killarney at 
 the rate of two pence per pound. The cottage 
 of Glena is situated at the base of the mountain 
 of that name, sheltered by a hanging wood of 
 oak, ash, holly, &c. and close to the margin of the 
 lake. The most romantic disposition of mind 
 cannot conceive, nor the most picturesque fancy 
 sketch, a scene more beautiful, more animating, 
 or more captivating; the cottage in the wood, at 
 a little distance, produces ideas of comfort, neat- 
 ness, beauty, and happiness, and which upon a 
 nearer approach, is fully realised. A cottage in 
 every way worthy of the place, built after the 
 old English style, and beautifully furnished, occu- 
 pies the centre of a small lawn, from which the 
 natural wood has been removed. Though the 
 cottage is small as compared with the neighbour- 
 ing ones of Lord Headley and Mr. Herbert, it 
 
STAfe HUNT. 
 
 69 
 
 affords sufficient accommodation for the occasion- 
 al sojourn of Lord Kenmare and family. The 
 grounds around the cottage are tastefully laid out, 
 and kept in the best order. Near to it is a com- 
 fortable house for the person who has charge of 
 this department of the estate. At a short dis- 
 tance from the cottage, is the banquetting house, 
 at which parties visiting the Lakes may dine, 
 having, as suggested in the first pages of our book, 
 made the necessary arrangements. 
 
 The banquetting-room is comfortable, airy, spa- 
 cious, and situated so as to command fine views 
 of the Lower Lake and surrounding scenery. 
 Every thing necessary to the comfort of visitors 
 has been most liberally supplied by his Lordship, 
 and the persons appointed to superintend these 
 matters are directed to see that all is properly 
 attended *to, and at the same time to maintain 
 due order and decorum. 
 
 Before we conduct the reader beyond the con- 
 fines of Glena bay, the joys of a stag hunt should 
 be described. Amongst the various phenomena 
 beauties, amusements, &c. to be witnessed or 
 enjoyed at the lakes of Killarney, tourists seem 
 to estimate the stag hunt as the most interesting 
 of all. The joys of the chase were always at- 
 tractive to the ancient Irish, and Bede calls Ire- 
 land, an Island famous for stag hunting ; but the 
 sport thus alluded to was of a much more manly, 
 arduous, and warlike character, than the effemi- 
 
70 
 
 STAG HUNT. 
 
 nate task of participating in the prepared pa- 
 geantry of a Killarney stag hunt. Few visiters 
 have the good fortune to be present at these 
 amusing exploits, although any person who pleases 
 to encounter the expense attendant upon the pre- 
 parations for the hunt, need not be apprehensive 
 of being refused permission to indulge himself 
 and his friends with the agreeable spectacle. 
 
 After leave is granted, a considerable number 
 of persons are employed to conduct the hounds to 
 the appointed rendezvous, from whence they are 
 liberated at an appointed time ; some beat the 
 wood and rouse the stag from his retreat in the 
 thicket, while others ascend the heights to prevent 
 his escaping to the mountain’s top, although this 
 is not much to be feared, as deer seldom run 
 against a hill. In the mean time the spectators 
 assemble in boats upon the Lake, and row back- 
 wards and forwards, directed by the echoes of the 
 hunters’ horns, and the baying of the hounds; 
 during the chase among the woods, the pursuers 
 submit to much fatigue, without enjoying equal 
 gratification, as the closeness of the trees seldom 
 gives them an opportunity of seeing the stag 
 pursued by the dogs. Meanwhile the patience of 
 the aquatic hunter is put to the test, being fre- 
 quently obliged to remain several hours on the 
 water, in expectation of ultimately seeing the 
 poor tired creature leap into the Lake, and seek for 
 shelter in a distant island : the number and expe- 
 
STAG HUNT. 
 
 71 
 
 Hence of the hunters seldom fail to conclude the 
 chase in the expected manner, and the stag, 
 leaping into the Lake, and trying to make the 
 opposite shore, is surrounded by the sportsmen 
 in boats, and borne triumphantly to land.* 
 
 The species of deer, inhabiting the woods of 
 Killarney, is called the stag or red deer ; it was 
 introduced into England from France, but appears 
 to be an old inhabitant of this country : and 
 although the red deer continue wild in the High- 
 lands of Scotland, yet those in the woods about 
 Lough Lein are the only remaining part of the 
 great herds that were to be found in the forests 
 which once covered the face of this country ; the 
 few remaining in England are confined to the 
 moors that border on Cornwall and Devonshire. 
 Various animals are much pleased by harmonious 
 tones, but none are so completely overcome by their 
 influence as the large stag, or red deer, as a proof 
 of which take the following interesting anecdote 
 from Playford’s History of Music : — As I tra- 
 velled, some years since, near Royston, I met a 
 herd of stags, about twenty, on the road, following 
 
 * It would not appear to the reader that this species of 
 stag hunt is as laborious or dangerous as that spoken of by 
 the venerable Bede, but the author of the Hibernia Cu- 
 riosa, with his usual extravagant pourtraying, says, ‘‘ there 
 IS one imminent danger that awaits the hunter, which is, 
 that he may forget where he is, and jump out of the boat.” 
 
72 
 
 TURK LAKE. 
 
 a bagpipe and violin, which, while the music 
 played,* they went forward, when it ceased they 
 all stood still ; and in this manner they w^ere 
 brought out of Yorkshire to Hampton Court.” 
 
 The wolf, once a well-known and dreaded inha- 
 bitant of Ireland, has been totally extirpated : 
 first his retreats were destroyed, next a reward 
 offered for his head, and the last ever taken in 
 this kingdom was caught in these woods. Edgar 
 was so resolved upon destroying this hateful spe- 
 cies of animal, that he commuted the punishments 
 for certain crimes, upon the production of a cer- 
 tain number of wolves’ tongues. This determined 
 conduct soon cleared England of these blood- 
 thirsty animals, while Ireland still continued to be 
 oppressed and inconvenienced by their depreda- 
 tions; and even so late as 1710, a presentment 
 was laid before the Grand Jury of the County of 
 Cork, for the destroying of wolves. 
 
 TURK LAKE. 
 
 Leaving Glena cottage and bay, the islands of 
 Dinis and Brickeen invite our attention ; these 
 islands separate Turk from the Lower Lake, and 
 form narrow passages, or canals, by which alone 
 Turk Lake can be entered. There [are passages^ 
 on both sides of Dinis island, and a third under 
 
TURK LAKE. 
 
 73 
 
 Brickeen bridge. This bridge unites the extre- 
 mity of the promontory of Mucruss with Brickeen 
 island ; it consists of one gothic arch, whose alti- 
 tude is seventeen feet, and span twenty-seven, and 
 was built by the late Colonel Herbert. The most 
 desirable entrance is by the Glena side of Dinis 
 island, which, though more circuitous to navigate, 
 is much the most beautiful, and of the most novel 
 character. The passage is like a river, enclosed 
 by rich and verdant banks, crowned with the 
 most luxuriant groves of various trees, close to 
 the water’s edge : it is a sylvan and aquatic scene 
 of the most delicate and pleasing character, with- 
 out any mixture whatever of the sublime or grand, 
 but confined to the beautiful solely, and of such 
 beauty as the eye loves to dwell upon. 
 
 After being enclosed for some short time in this 
 enchanting and retired scene, Turk Lake suddenly 
 appears, through a narrow vista, and produces a 
 very singular effect by the extreme abruptness 
 with which the view of the expanse of water 
 breaks in upon you. The visiter should land, 
 however, on the banks of the wooded canal, upon 
 Dinis island, and wander through the lawns and 
 groves of flowing arbutus, which enrich and 
 beautify this little Eden. The taste of the colonel 
 was too chaste, and his judgment too discerning, 
 to neglect this happy little spot, so much adorned 
 by nature ; and, having cut walks through the 
 
74 
 
 TURK LAKE. 
 
 woods, he erected a large and comfortable cottage 
 on a sloping lawn, looking towards Mangerton 
 and Turk cottage. Here parties frequently dine, 
 and are very comfortably accommodated, and 
 treated with that politeness which is characteristic 
 of the inhabitants of this neighbourhood. The 
 banquetting room commands a view of the Lake 
 from one extremity to the other, with Turk and 
 Mangerton mountains, and the cottage of Turk, 
 with its improved pleasure grounds. Here, also, 
 the visiter will have his salmon — which is, per- 
 haps, some of the finest in the south of Ireland — 
 dressed upon arbutus skewers, as at Glena. While 
 the passengers are engaged in wandering over the 
 island, or refreshing within the cottage, the boat 
 is generally rowed to the front of the cottage in 
 Turk Lake, where it awaits at the foot of the 
 gently sloping bank. Coasting along the south 
 side of the Lake, Turk mountain appears particu- 
 larly sublime, having acquired, by proximity, that 
 apparent height which its neighbour Mangerton 
 denies it at a greater distance. The precipitous 
 brow of Turk appears thickly wooded to a consi- 
 derable height, and down to the very water ; the 
 Lake itself, which multiplies its forests, at the 
 same time receives a dark and gloomy colouring 
 from the reflection of the impending height. The 
 opposite shore forms a striking contrast to this : 
 there the peninsula of Mucruss is extended, ele- 
 
TURK LAKE. 
 
 75 
 
 vated but a little above the Lake, and consisting 
 of a bed of mouldering and excavated rocks, 
 thickly covered with wood. 
 
 At the remote or eastern extremity of the Lake, 
 stands Turk cottage, a private retreat of Mr„ 
 Herbert ; it contains several small, neat apart- 
 ments, with a library of miscellaneous books. — 
 The pleasure-grounds around are highly improved, 
 and carefully attended to. 
 
 Behind the cottage, at the distance of about a 
 furlong, in a chasm between Turk and Mangerton 
 Mountains, is Turk Cascade, a fall of about sixty 
 feet, which, in rainy seasons, exhibits one conti- 
 nued sheet of foam, from the stage whence it 
 shoots to the natural basin below : it is supplied 
 from a small lake, formed in the hollow of the 
 summit of Mangerton, called the Devil’s Punch 
 Bowl, and the rivulet is thence denominated 
 The Devil’s Stream.” This cataract, after falling 
 into a deep and gloomy reservoir below, hurries 
 impetuously along the bottom of a rocky glen, 
 and, passing beneath a small bridge of Gothic 
 arches, mingles its waters with those of the lake. 
 One side of the glen is completely perpendicular, 
 and richly clothed with larch and fir, planted by 
 Colonel Herbert. Owing to the extreme perpen- 
 dicularity of the sides of the glen, immediately 
 near the waterfall, the men employed in planting 
 the firs, were obliged to be lowered by ropes from 
 
76 
 
 TURK LAKE. 
 
 the top, carrying the young trees with them, and 
 seeking for a bed of earth of sufficient depth to 
 protect their root ; and in this tedious, expensive, 
 and dangerous manner, Turk Cascade has been so 
 improved by human aid, that the majority of 
 strangers would prefer it to O’Sullivan’s Cascade 
 on the Lower Lake, or Derry-Cunnihy Waterfall 
 on the Upper. 
 
 There is a bridle road leading from Turk cot- 
 tage to Mucruss house and abbey, which is not 
 very interesting, being overhung by the bleak 
 brow of Mangerton ; and visiters have an infinite 
 advantage by viewing the surrounding scenery 
 from the lake. Rowing round the eastern extre- 
 mity, there is an uninterrupted prospect of the 
 whole of Turk Lake, which is about two miles 
 long, and one broad ; then, sailing by a little em- 
 bayment, in the very centre of which is a small 
 island, the course is along the rugged shores of 
 Mucruss peninsula. Devil’s island and bay par- 
 ticularly demand notice. The island is a mass of 
 rock, of considerable elevation, having some 
 shrubs upon its summit, and appears to have been 
 thrown off from the shore of Mucruss by some 
 convulsive shock of nature. 
 
 Coasting along the northern shore of Turk 
 Lake, pass Brickeen bridge, and return to the 
 cottage on Dinis island. A walk round this little 
 richly wooded spot will amply compensate the 
 
PASSAGE TO THE UPPER LAKE. 
 
 77 
 
 tourist, by the endless variety of scenery pre- 
 sented at every change of place or position, and 
 the foliage on this island is the most luxuriant 
 imaginable. 
 
 PASSAGE TO THE UPPEPt LAKE. 
 
 Entering the river again, the navigation against 
 the current is found very difficult; and though 
 the visiter is completely enraptured by the pleasing 
 character of the scenery to be met with in this 
 watery defile connecting the Lakes, the boatmen 
 are occupied in a very different manner, being 
 obliged to put forth all their energies to overcome 
 the violence of the stream. In the most rapid 
 part of the river, not far from Old W eir Bridge, 
 an eddy is shown, usually called O’Sullivan’s 
 Punch Bowl ; it is extremely like these whirlpools 
 near Bangor Ferry, called the Swillies. The com- 
 pany generally disembark, and walk along the 
 banks, while the boatmen draw up the boat, by a 
 rope attached to the prow. The interest of 
 the scene is rather increased by this little 
 interruption, and the difficulty of pushing the 
 boat through one of the arches of Old Weir 
 Bridge heightens it still farther. The bridge, 
 which consists of two arches of equal dimensions, 
 is thrown across the stream where there is a rapid 
 
78 
 
 PASSAGE TO THE 
 
 of great violence ; and in returning from the 
 Upper Lake, it is necessary to undergo the cere- 
 mony of shooting the arch, which persons of 
 weak nerves should not attempt ; for any confu- 
 sion amongst the passengers, would destroy the 
 equilibrium of the boat, and most probably cause 
 it to strike against a rock. But although acci- 
 dents migh occur, it is also certain that scarcely 
 any serious injury has ever been sustained in 
 passing either up or down the current. 
 
 Pursuing the voyage along this natural and 
 serpentine canal, various small islands and gro- 
 tesque rocks are pointed out. Miss Plummer s 
 island is soon passed, and, shortly after, a large 
 mass of rock, called the Man of War, presents 
 itself ; it is exceedingly like the work of art, to 
 which the cockswain compares it, and the analogy 
 is farther preserved by a large yew upon its sum- 
 mit, whose stem and branches are the representa- 
 tives of the mast and sails. 
 
 The Eagle's Nest is the next important object 
 in the passage. It is placed in a hanging crag, 
 near the summit of an almost perpendicular rock, 
 of a pyramidal form, and twelve or thirteen 
 hundred feet in height. When viewed from a 
 distance, this much celebrated rock, so frequently 
 the subject of the painter and the poet, appears 
 quite contemptible, from the superior height of 
 the adjacent mountains; but the approach to its 
 
79 
 
 UPPER LAKE. 
 
 base, by the river, is picturesque and sublime in 
 the highest degree, since the river runs directly to 
 its foot, and there turns off abruptly, so that the 
 rock is seen from its base to the summit, without 
 interruption ; and the projecting masses of huge 
 broken fragments in the centre, tend to complete 
 the magnificence of the object. The base is 
 covered with wood, and a few shrubs appear scat- 
 tered over the face of the rock, up to the very 
 apei of the pyramid. 
 
 It is from this sublime and stupendous rock the 
 sound is returned in so miraculous a manner, that 
 it is considered one of the most singular pheno- 
 mena in existence. A small hillock, on the oppo- 
 site side of the river, usually called the Station 
 for Audience,’' is used as the resting place of a 
 paterara, which is carried in the boat from Kil- 
 larney : the gunner is placed on one side of the 
 hillock, and the auditor on the other, and upon 
 the discharge of the piece, a roaring is heard in 
 the bosom of the opposite mountain, like a peal of 
 thunder, or the discharge of a train of artillery, 
 and this echo is multiplied a number of times, 
 after which it gradually fades away, like the 
 rolling of distant thunder. The exact residence 
 of the eagle may be distinguished by a black 
 mark near the vertex of the rock, and the noble 
 inhabitant is frequently seen soaring above the 
 heads of passengers on the river, and directing 
 
80 
 
 UPPER LAKE. 
 
 their admiring gaze towards his inaccessible re- 
 treat. The sound of a musical instrument pro- 
 duces reverberations of quite a different character 
 from that of the musket or small cannon. The 
 only instrument that can be procured at Killarney 
 is a bugle, which is peculiarly appropriate for the 
 production of echoes. 
 
 Leaving the Eagle’s Nest, rocks and islands 
 succeed in endless variety of form. Holly island, 
 the Four Friends, &c. and the mountain denomi- 
 nated Newfoundland, begin now to appear south- 
 ward. The river winds even more than at its 
 northern entrance, and, at the precise opening to 
 the Upper Lake, narrows so much, that there 
 appears no egress from the last basin of the river. 
 
 In sailing along the channel of communication 
 between the Lakes, many sublime mountain views 
 may be had, particularly at the northern extremity 
 of the Man-of-war rock, looking towards Lord 
 Brandon’s Tower, and again near the rocks called 
 the Cannon and Balls. 
 
 The passage is generally considered to be about 
 three miles in length, and, in point of beauty, 
 extent, and situation, is quite unique in mountain 
 scenery, neither Wales, Wicklow, nor the English 
 Lakes, possessing any thing of a similar descrip- 
 tion. It is bounded on the north-west by Glena 
 and the Long Range mountains, and on the south- 
 east by the Drooping mountain, (Cromiglaun,) 
 
UPPER LAKE. 
 
 81 
 
 and the base of Turk. In the summer season the 
 rocks enclosing the channel of the river are much 
 disfigured by the falling of the waters ; being of 
 a cellular nature, the soft slime and mud carried 
 down by the wintry torrents, are deposited in the 
 inequalities of the rocky substance ; and, on the 
 falling of the surface of the lakes in dry weather, 
 a dark water-mark remains, extremely unpleasant 
 to the eye. 
 
 The entrance into the Upper Lake is contracted 
 into a narrow passage, of about thirty feet in 
 breadth, usually called Coleman's Leap, from a 
 tradition that a person of this name once leaped 
 across the chasm ; and on the west side may be 
 seen the impression of the adventurer’s feet in the 
 solid rock.* The contraction in this place is 
 occasioned by a peninsula, called Coleman^s Eye, 
 which strikingly represents the form of the human 
 eye, when viewed upon a map. 
 
 Here the boatmen, having given several violent 
 pulls of the oars, are compelled to ship them alto- 
 gether, trusting to the impulse given by their 
 
 * Impressions of feet in the solid rock are not uncom- 
 mon, “ liLsus natural*' About five miles from the head of 
 Kenmare River, in the heart of the mountains, and near a 
 small brook, is a rock, usually called by an Irish name 
 which signifies ‘‘ The Fairy Rock.” On this are to be 
 seen the impressions of several human feet, some naked, 
 others with shoes on, and those of all sizes from infancy 
 
 G 
 
82 
 
 UPPER LAKE. 
 
 efforts for being able to pass the gap, for it is not 
 of sufficient breadth to permit the oars to ply. 
 Coleman’s Leap once passed^ you are upon the 
 Upper Lake. 
 
 UPPER LAKE. 
 
 The character of the Upper Lake, which has 
 frequently been compared with the Derwent 
 Water, in Cumberland, is quite distinct from that 
 of Turk or the Lower Lake. It is entirely en- 
 compassed by mountains ; and, on looking back, 
 the pass by which you entered upon its surface, is 
 
 to manhood. From the appellation bestowed upon the 
 Fairy Rock, it is plain the peasant has attributed this effect 
 to preternatural causes, but the naturalist removes the dif- 
 ficulty, by supposing that this and other rocks may once 
 have been in a fluid or soft state, and consequently suscep- 
 tible of impressions, and become petrified in the course of 
 time, as we know many kinds of clay do. This hypothesis 
 might also explain the phenomenon of the impressions of 
 two large feet on the summit of Adam’s Peak, in the 
 Island of Ceylon, as well as those mentioned by Dr. 
 Behrens in his Natural History ; one, the impression of a 
 young woman’s foot, who was supposed to have been 
 escaping from the hands of a too importunate gallant, in 
 the forest of Hartz, in Germany ; the other of a horse- 
 shoe in a solid rock, near the village of Thai, in Switzer- 
 land. 
 
UPPER LAKE. 
 
 83 
 
 totally lost in the confusion of hill, promontory, 
 and bay. In this retreat from the busy scenes of 
 life, the beautiful and the sublime are exquisitely 
 united; the expanse of water is no where very 
 great, except near the entrance, by Coleman’s 
 Leap ; but the number of Islands is very consi- 
 derable. 
 
 To the south, Cromiglaun mountain rises from 
 the very water, behind which is Esknamuchy^ 
 from which runs a considerable stream, falling 
 over an extensive ledge of rocks in its progress 
 to the Lake. To the west of Cromiglaun, or the 
 Drooping mountain, is Derrycunehy ; in a glen 
 westward of which is a pretty little cottage and 
 demesne, the property of Lord Kenmare, and 
 long occupied by the late Mr. Plyde, rector of 
 Killarney. The cottage is most romantically 
 situated on the rocky, shelving banks of the river 
 under the fall called Derrycunehy Cascade, and 
 of which several fine views are seen from the 
 windows and grounds. Should the water of the 
 lake be low, as frequently happens, in summer, 
 the road from the Lake is both tedious and disa- 
 greeable. The cottage and cascade is at all times 
 more easily approached from the Kenmare road. 
 In this way a carriage can drive close to the for- 
 mer and within a few perches of the latter. 
 
 To the west of Derrycunehy mountain, and 
 separated by the river Kavoge^ is Derry dimna 
 mountain, one of whose sides is clothed with a 
 
84 
 
 UPPER LAKE. 
 
 rich wood. The Coombui mountains are seen in 
 the distance, towards the south-west point, and 
 Barnasna more westerly. In the west also are 
 seen Baum, with its coni-formed summit, and 
 Mac Gillycuddy’s Reeks, with their lofty, shat- 
 tered, and shelving tops. These hills, the highest 
 in Kerry, are composed of a sort of stone which 
 is easily shivered by the storms of winter, and 
 slides down the steep precipitous face of the 
 mountains, nor rests until it reaches the deep 
 ravines at the foot of these almost inaccessible 
 cliffs, so that it may, perhaps with some reason, 
 be concluded, that their height is somewhat dimi- 
 nished in the lapse of time. 
 
 In the centre of the garden attached to the 
 cottage, on the summit of a little eminence, stands 
 a small tower erected by the late Lord Brandon, 
 in all probability to mark the site of his cottage, 
 which is hid by the thicket of wood around it. 
 The rock on which the cottage stands, and the 
 small tower rising over the trees, form, however, 
 a part, of the scenery of the Upper Lake. 
 
 One of the principal supplies of the Upper 
 Lake runs past the above cottage, at the termina- 
 tion of which, parties meet their boats in their 
 progress down the lakes from the Gap of Dunloe. 
 This river flows through the long extended valley 
 of Com me Duff*, forming in its progress, several 
 small lakes as distinctly seen in the descent from 
 the Gap to this point. It is to be hoped, that the 
 
UPPER LAKE. 
 
 85 
 
 attention of Lord Kenmare will soon be directed 
 to the formation of good roads through this dreary 
 swamp, which at present is wholly inaccessible 
 except in dry summer weather. For this purpose 
 there are ample facilities, by a branch of the 
 beautiful road from Kenmare to Killarney. 
 
 The islands in the Upper Lake are numerous, 
 many of them rise boldly over the surface of the 
 waters — their rocky sides being literally covered 
 with the most luxuriant vegetation. Here may 
 be seen the arbutus in the greatest perfection, 
 mingled with the holly and stunted oak, and tan- 
 gled masses of thorn, privet, and mountain ash 
 and other underwood, blended with the more 
 towering birch and alder. 
 
 Independent of the conflicting and exaggerated 
 opinions which have been given in the various 
 Guide Books, and the romantic notions of poets 
 and painters, we are quite of opinion that the 
 Upper Lake is more attractive than either the 
 Middle or Lower. The mountains are nearer 
 and more lofty, and surrounding the lake on every 
 side, present the most diversified and picturesque 
 outlines. The vegetation of the island is also of 
 a more varied and luxuriant character than on 
 those of the Lower Lake, and contrast highly 
 with the barer rocky sides of the adjacent shores. 
 Although there are many wilder and sublimer 
 scenes to be met with in the central parts of Cun- 
 
86 
 
 UPPER LAKE. 
 
 / 
 
 nemara, Joyce Country, and in the mountainous 
 parts of Donegal, yet no where is to be seen in 
 such perfection, and on so large a scale, that kind 
 of beauty which so much depends on the combi- 
 nations of form and colour. 
 
 The Purple mountain, which forms one of the 
 principal features of the Upper Lake, is very pro- 
 perly denominated from the purple hue it posses- 
 ses, seen from almost any quarter, and under any 
 modification of light. Although the Erica cine- 
 ria covers a considerable extent of the mountain 
 side, and when in flower no doubt augments the 
 purple hue, yet the permanent colour of the 
 mountain arises wholly from the colour of the 
 stone of which it is principally composed. Con- 
 nected with the scenery of the Upper Lake, the 
 river, and the various tributary streams, it is im- 
 possible to overlook the Royal fern, (Osmunda 
 regalis) the noblest and most striking of all the 
 native ferns, which here grows in the greatest 
 abundance. It may be seen in endless masses 
 along the river banks and marshy shores, rearing 
 its beautiful fronds from six to ten feet in height. 
 
 And here, as in all her works, nature has proved 
 herself the most accomplished artist, in adapt- 
 ing the light and airy tints of the limestone 
 rock to the gay and luxuriant shores of Glena 
 and Mucruss ; and the more dingy shadows 
 to the bold and wild features of the Upper Lake. 
 
UPPER LAKE. 
 
 87 
 
 This exposure of the rocky bases of the islands, 
 and stony strands, which occurs in the Lakes of 
 Kerry, forms a distinguishing character between 
 these and the English Lakes, where the green 
 sod always confines the apparently overflowing 
 waters, producing the idea of eternal plenitude. 
 
 The most prominent of the islands, upon en- 
 tering the Upper Lake, is Oak isle, or Rossburkie, 
 a very beautiful object, rising from a rocky base, 
 and crowned with wood ; from its shores is a 
 splendid and majestic view of the loftiest moun- 
 tains, grouped in the most varied manner. The 
 Reeks, Sugar Loaf, and Purple mountain,' are the 
 most striking and grand, and Turk, which is now 
 left behind, assumes a totally different aspect. 
 The space between this and Turk is occupied by 
 the fantastic promontory of Newfoundland, over- 
 hanging the inlet into which the Esknamucky 
 falls. A walk along the banks of this last-men- 
 tioned stream will surprise and delight the tourist; 
 but such little expeditions can be undertaken and 
 enjoyed only by one who has a longer period at 
 his disposal than visiters generally bestow upon 
 the Lakes. 
 
 Doubling Coffin Point, the headland sheltering 
 the bay or inlet of Derrycunehy, the waterfalls in 
 the river Kavoge are approached ; these are more 
 numerous, and generally better supplied, than any 
 amongst the Lakes, and embosomed in the most 
 
88 ‘ 
 
 UPPER LAKE/ 
 
 enchanting sylvan scenery. From Coffin Point is 
 a commanding view of the Long Range^ Ghir- 
 meen, and Mac Gillicuddy’s Reeks. Coasting 
 along the shores of Derrycunehy and Derrydimna 
 mountains, a little archipelago is entered, con» 
 taining seven islands. 
 
 Passing Eagle's Island the visiter is surprised at 
 the sight of a solitary cottage on one of these lit- 
 tle water-girt isles, more lofty than the rest. It 
 was built by Mr. Ronan, a gentleman of indepen- 
 dent fortune, who usually spent two or three 
 months in each year, in this secluded spot, de- 
 voting most of his time to shooting and fishing. — ^ 
 In the summer of 1821, Ronan s cottage was in a 
 state of wretchedness and ruin. Parties, some- 
 times, bring their provisions from Killarney and 
 dine here ; but owing to the miserable accommo- 
 dation, the cottages of Glena, Dinis, and Inisfallen, 
 are generally preferred. The island is thickly 
 wooded with oak, arbutus, &c. and is accessible 
 only in one spot, close to the cottage. A path 
 winding round the island conducts at last to an 
 eminence about thirty feet above the surface of 
 the Lake, whence there is a very extensive pros- 
 pect towards Carriguline, Derrycunehy, and all 
 the surrounding mountains. The surface of this 
 island is covered with infinite strata of decayed 
 leaves and brambles. Those at a great depth are 
 bound and united in such a manner, as to form 
 
UPPER liAKE. 
 
 89 
 
 one continued mass of putrefied matter, becoming, 
 in proportion to its depth from the surface, darker 
 in colour, until at the bottom, where the dissolu- 
 tion is most perfect, and the pressure greatest, it 
 is one continued black turf. This fact may tend 
 to explain how many of the bogs in Ireland may 
 have been formed ; for it is perfectly ascertained, 
 that most of the mountains, and even a great por- 
 tion of the plains, were once thickly covered with 
 forest trees.* 
 
 The same combination is also discoverable in 
 other islands in the Lakes, but is most obvious 
 upon Ronan’s, 
 
 Leaving Ronan’s island, and pursuing a wester- 
 ly course. Stag island next presents itself, of a 
 similar character to the others in this Lake, its 
 rocks crowned with rich foliage. Beyond this, 
 the valley between Ghirmeen and Barnasna lies 
 expanded before you, and in the centre the stately 
 tower of Lord Brandon is seen rising above the 
 woods. The other islands in this cluster are 
 called McCarthy’s, Duck, and Arbutus. The 
 
 ■* Upon a close inspection of the Irish turf, it will be 
 found to consist of fibres of moss, grass, branches, leaves, 
 with a small quantity of earth, whence it is easily reduced 
 to ashes. Whereas the Dutch turf consists entirely of 
 earthy matter, which is very heavy, even when dry, and 
 burns for a considerable time, producing also an excellent 
 charcoal, 
 
 a 3 
 
90 
 
 UPPER LAKE. 
 
 channels between them open to new and varied 
 scenes, which, combined with panoramic views of 
 rock, wood, and mountain, produce one of the 
 most awfully sublime pictures in nature. The 
 northern shore affords equal beauty and variety 
 of prospect; and, after sailing under the Long 
 Range, conducts back once more to the singularly 
 contracted entrance at Coleman’s Leap. 
 
 The stream now carries the boat along so plea- 
 santly, that the assistance of the oar is hardly 
 necessary. The former views along the passage 
 are transposed, and Turk is hardly recognised, 
 appearing so black and shapeless. 
 
 The navigation of this natural canal is pecu- 
 liarly delightful at evening time : the smoothness 
 of the water, in which are seen reflected the 
 woods and hills ; the stillness of the atmosphere, 
 so appropriate to the production of echoes beneath 
 the Eagle’s Nest, the meandering of the river, and 
 the exuberance and luxuriance of the arbutus, 
 yews, and hollies, which clothe the banks, pro- 
 duce the most delightful feelings. 
 
 It is quite absurd to point out particular sta- 
 tions where advantageous views may be had, for 
 the precise spot can seldom be discovered ; and, 
 besides, every tourist finds the greatest pleasure 
 in making such discoveries for himself ; and sta- 
 tions would be multiplied ad infinitum^ if all those 
 that are worth mentioning were pointed out here : 
 
UPPER LAKE. 
 
 9r 
 
 yet general hints may sometimes be given with 
 advantage. The new road from Killarney to 
 Kenmare, opens up such a succession of views, 
 and affords so many facilities for ascending the 
 heights surrounding the Lake, that the tourist 
 will readily find many interesting points of 
 view. 
 
 The Upper Lake is about tiDO miles and a half 
 in lengthy but its breadth is irregular. The rocks 
 and islands are inhabited by hawks, eagles, and 
 other birds of prey. In a tour through Ireland, 
 made in the year 1797, by Mr. Holmes, is the 
 following very just estimate of the comparative 
 picturesque merits of the three Lakes of Killar- 
 ney, and the serpentine river which connects 
 them : 1 should distinguish the Upper Lake as 
 
 being the most sublime ; the Lower the most 
 beautiful; and Turk, or Mucruss, the most pic- 
 turesque ; the winding passage, leading to the 
 Upper, contains a surprising combination of the 
 three, and, probably, is not tp be exceeded by any 
 spot in the world.” 
 
 Mr, Curwen, whose taste and feeling as a tourist 
 are acknowledged and admired, and whose admi- 
 ration of the beauties of nature is sufficiently 
 testified by his residence on Windermere, insti- 
 tutes a very just comparison between the Lakes 
 of Killarney and those in the north of England. 
 As a landscape for casual contemplation/’ says 
 
"92 
 
 MUCRUSS ABBEY. 
 
 Mr. Cur wen, I should prefer Killarney ; as a 
 permanent residence, I should choose Windjer- 
 mere.-’ 
 
 MUCRUSS ABBEY 
 > 
 
 Is distant about two miles from the town, on the 
 road leading from Killarney to Kenmare, close to 
 the village of Cloghereen, The abbey and grounds 
 connected with it form part of the demesne of 
 Henry Arthur Herbert, Esq. Leaving Killarney, 
 the road on either side as far as Lord Ken- 
 mare’s demesne extends, is skirted by rows of 
 full grown lime trees, which have a fine effect. 
 On the left are several seats, the most conspi- 
 cuous of which is Flesk castle, Mr. Coltsman’s. 
 Beyond the River Flesk, close to the Lake, is 
 Cahirnane, the beautiful seat of the late Rev. A. 
 Herbert, and adjoining this, Castlelough, the 
 residence of Mr. Shine. There are several 
 villas on the left, the more remarkable among 
 them, Southill, Mr. Leahy, and Dane’s Fort, 
 Mr. Colthurst. Adjoining Castlelough demesne, 
 there is an open part of Mr. Herbert's grounds, 
 from whence there is a good view of the 
 Lower Ltdve ; and a little wny Ix'yoncI tliis is the 
 
MUCRUSS ABBEY. 
 
 93 
 
 entrance to the beautiful and romantic demesne of 
 Mucruss. 
 
 On entering the village, a small mean gateway 
 on the right admits to Mucruss grounds ; just 
 within the gate is an old building, formerly occu- 
 pied by the miners employed on the peninsula 
 Crossing a little stream, and stretching a short 
 distance across a beautifully sloping and verdant 
 lawn, the steeple of* Irrelagh, or Mucruss Abbey, 
 rears its venerable head amongst the lofty limes 
 and ashes. 
 
 According to Archdall this abbey was founded 
 by Donald, son of Thady McCarthy, in ]440,f 
 for conventual Franciscans, and further improved 
 and repaired by him in 1468, a few months before 
 his death. In 1602 it was re-edified by the 
 Roman Catholics, but was soon after suffered to 
 go to ruin. 
 
 The abbey consisted of a nave, choir, transept, 
 and cloisters, with every apartment necessary to 
 render it a complete and comfortable residence 
 for the venerable inmates who once dwelt there. 
 It is even now so perfect, that| were it more so, 
 the ruin would be less pleasing. The entrance is 
 
 * i. e. on the Lakes. 
 
 t There was a religious house on the same site before 
 this period, as appears from a MS. in Trinity College, 
 Dublin, wherein it is stated that “ the Church of Irrelagh 
 was burned in 1192.” 
 
94 
 
 MUCRUSS ABBEY. 
 
 by a pointed door-way, ornamented with an 
 architrave, highly enriched by an infinity of plain 
 mouldings. The interior of the choir is awful, 
 gloomy, and solitary, heightened almost to the 
 terrific by the indecent custom of piling the me- 
 lancholy remains of mortality in every corner; 
 and so familiar is the care-taker with these sad 
 relics, that he has even had the indelicacy and 
 hardihood to group them here and there in fan- 
 tastic forms. Sir John Carr speaks of this in 
 very strong language : “ So loaded with the con- 
 tagion is the air in this spot, that every principle 
 of humanity imperiously calls upon the indulgent 
 owner, to exercise his right of closing it up as a 
 place of sepulture in future. I warn every one 
 who visits Killarney, as he values life, not to enter 
 this abbey. Contrast renders doubly horrible the 
 ghastly contemplation of human dissolution, taint- 
 ing the surrounding air with pestilence, in a spot 
 which nature has enriched with a profusion of 
 romantic beauty.” This statement is rather over- 
 charged, and the request here made of closing the 
 cemetery totally impracticable in a country where 
 religious superstition prevails so strongly. 
 
 This abbey, says Archdall, has continued to be 
 the cemetery of the M‘Carthys. Donald, Earl of 
 Clancare, and Patrick, Lord Kerry, the earls 
 nephew, who died in 1600, lie entombed here. In 
 the floor of the choir is a large marble fiag, 
 bearing the arms of the McCarthy Mores. 
 
MUCKUSS ABBEY. 
 
 95 
 
 Many valuable relics were said to be preserved 
 in this Abbey. An image of the Virgin Mary, 
 of miraculous powers, was also said to belong to 
 it. The landed property, amounting to four acres, 
 two orchards, and one garden, estimated at I 65 . 
 per annum, was granted to Captain Robert Collam, 
 upon the dissolution of religious establishments 
 throughout the kingdom, in the 37th of Elizabeth; 
 but from the date of the inscription on the nor- 
 thern wall of the choir (1626) it is obvious the 
 monks continued to inhabit it some time after. 
 
 A large stone in one angle of the choir, of ra- 
 ther modern date, bears the following extraordi- 
 nary inscription : 
 
 T. S. D. m^ : m : Rahily : oR^ 
 
 There is a small chapel branching from the 
 choir, entered by a handsome pointed door-way 
 enriched with plain mouldings. The steeple once 
 contained a bell, which, not many years ago, was 
 found in the lough, and recognised, by the in- 
 scription upon it, as the former property of Mu- 
 cruss Abbey. 
 
 The cloister is even more perfect than the stee- 
 ple or choir. In the centre of the cloister stands 
 a majestic yew, whose stem rises perpendicularly 
 to the height of about thirty feet, and whose shel- 
 tering branches are flung across the battlements, 
 so as to form a perfect canopy. The gloominess 
 of the cloister is so much increased by this cu- 
 
96 
 
 MUCRUSS ABBEY. 
 
 rious circumstance, that some persons have not 
 nerves sufficiently strong to endure a lengthened 
 visit within its precincts. The guide generally 
 recommends visiters to beware of injuring this 
 sacred tree ; and a story is gravely narrated of a 
 soldier who having the impious audacity to strip 
 a small piece of the bark with his pen-knife, in- 
 stantly expired on the spot where this sacrilege 
 was committed. Beneath this gloomy shade four 
 tombs, devoid of inscription, and of recent date, 
 are discovered, probably belonging to persons of 
 the religious order. On the ground-floor is a long 
 narrow room, but imperfectly lighted, called the 
 cellar; the ceiling, wffiich is an arch of stone, is 
 rather a subject of curiosity, as showing most 
 clearly the manner in which arches were thrown 
 or turned by the masons of ancient days. A 
 frame of wicker-work, tolerably strong, was co- 
 vered with a thick coat of mud or marl^ and, be- 
 ing reduced into the required shape, used as the 
 mould to build upon ; the wicker work being re- 
 moved, the marl adhered to the arch, and is still 
 perfectly obvious. The floor of the wine-cellar 
 exhibits a spectacle shocking to humanity ; lids of 
 coffins, with their commemorating inscriptions, 
 skulls and bones, which have not yet lost the 
 odour of putrefaction, lie strewn upon the ground. 
 In a small closet, near the wine-cellar, myriads of 
 coffin boards are stowed in, so that all entrance is 
 
MUCRUSS ABBEY. 
 
 97 
 
 prevented. At Ardfert and Lislaghtin, in this 
 county, the same abominable practice is also per- 
 mitted. 
 
 Over the cellar is the kitchen of the monks, 
 with its floor perfect, but without a roof, and there 
 John Drake, a pilgrim, lived for the space of 
 twenty years, and withdrew secretly after this 
 long penance. Next to the kitchen is the refec- 
 tory, preserving a chimney-piece, or rather fire- 
 place, and might have been a very comfortable 
 apartment. The dormitory is also tolerably com- 
 plete, and was a long narrow room, capable of 
 accommodating a number of persons of humble 
 habits of life. A second pilgrim took up his 
 abode in the upper chambers of the Abbey, but 
 his devotion was not so sincere as that of his pre- 
 decessor ; for after a lapse of two years, he 
 thought proper to retire. The Festival of St. 
 Francis, the patron saint, is celebrated here in the 
 month of July, upon which occasion the peasantry 
 assemble in great numbers, to receive the bene- 
 dictions of their pastors, and make their confes- 
 sions amongst the tombs and ruined walls of this 
 venerable building. The cemetery on the south of 
 the Abbey is crowded with tombs and monuments. 
 Persons of property generally hollow out a rock, 
 and throw an arch over, which permits the coffins 
 to be pushed in at one end, and is afterwards 
 closed by a large block of stone in which a ring is 
 
 H 
 
98 
 
 MUCRUSS DEMESNE. 
 
 / 
 
 inserted ; but the poorer classes are laid in the 
 earth, seldom more than twelve inches below the 
 surface. 
 
 The variety of trees and plants around the walk 
 of the Abbey, is probably greater than in any 
 other spot in the neighbourhood; limes, elms, ash, 
 sycamore, horse-chesnut, &c. besides one plant, the 
 ^ild hop, which is met with only here. There is 
 one more circumstance connected with this Ab- 
 bey, which, though not more peculiar to it than 
 to other favourite burying places in Ireland, yet, 
 from the frequency of its occurrence here, and 
 the scene where it may be witnessed, is interest- 
 ing to a stranger, and is quite characteristic of 
 the Irish nation, — I mean the “ Irish Cry.'' 
 
 MUCRUSS DEMESNE. 
 
 This beautiful and extensive demesne belongs 
 to Mr. Herbert, and was part of an enormous 
 grant of lands, made by Elizabeth, to sir William 
 Herbert of St. Julians, in the county of Mon- 
 mouth, whose daughter and heiress married Lord 
 Herbert of Cherbury, created Lord of Castle 
 Island in this county, by'^ letters patent, dated 
 Dec. 31st, 22nd of James I ; and by Charles I, a 
 peer of England, by the title of Lord Baron of 
 Cherbury in the county of Salop, 7th of May, in 
 
MUCRUSS DEMESNE. 
 
 99 
 
 the fifth year of his reign. The first of the Her- 
 berts who settled in this county was Thomas Her- 
 bert, of Kilcow, esq. of which lands and others 
 he was enfeoffed by Edward Lord Herbert of 
 Cherbury and Castle Island, April 18th 1656, from 
 whom the present possessor of Mucruss is de- 
 scended.* 
 
 The demesne includes a large tract of land on 
 the borders of the Lower, and Mucruss Lakes, 
 extending from Castle Lough to the foot of Turk, 
 together with the Peninsula of Mucruss, which 
 separates these Lakes. After visiting the Abbey, 
 a pleasing walk through the woods leads to the 
 summit of a hill called Drumaouk ;”f from this 
 rising ground is seen the house of Mucruss, with 
 its verdant lawn enclosed by a wood which fringes 
 thq Lake, and continues along the entire peninsula 
 to the point of Cammillan, a distance of nearly 
 three miles. On the opposite side of the Lake, 
 Tomies and Glena rise from the water with in- 
 credible magnificence, and possess a soft and gen- 
 tle outline, while the Eagle’s Nest exhibits a bold, 
 broken, and savage aspect. Here it is, then, that 
 the flat, swampy grounds about Killarney are en- 
 abled to contribute to the beauty of the scenery, 
 
 ♦ For a more minute account of this ancient family, see 
 Smith’s Kerry, page 33, et seq, 
 
 f Sir R. Hoare calls it O’Rorke. 
 
100 
 
 MUCRUSS DEMESNE. 
 
 by the contrast they afford to the opposite shore- 
 The house of Mucruss is old and tasteless, and 
 the gardens are remarkable for possessing more 
 rock than earth, from which spring the most de- 
 licate shrubs, and in the most luxuriant manner. 
 A road cut through the wood leads to a marble 
 quarry, from which green, red, black, and various- 
 ly coloured marbles have been raised. The quar- 
 ry is a broken, bold shore, surrounding a small 
 bay, and ornamented with the most beautiful 
 shrubs, scattered amongst the crags, and growing 
 apparently in the fissures of the rocks. 
 
 In passing along this w inding, irregular path, 
 occasional glimpses are caught of the Lake, spark- 
 ling through the thick foliage ; and sometimes an 
 opening amongst the trees permits a view of the 
 lower Lake, and the lowlands near Killarney on 
 the right; while Turk Mountain, hanging over 
 the intervening Lake, is seen to the left. The 
 shafts of a copper mine are also to be met with 
 on the peninsula, but the mine has not been w^ork- 
 ed for some years. When the works w^ere dis- 
 continued, about tw^enty-five thousand pounds 
 worth of ore had actually been sold. Besides 
 marble and copper, this peninsula also contains 
 iron ore, a quantity of w hich w^as also raised. 
 
 In pursuing the tour of this peninsula, several 
 beautiful bays are discovered, one in particular, 
 w hose rocky arms, which embrace it, are crowmed 
 
MANOERTON MOUNTAIN. 
 
 101 
 
 with arbutus and holly. The promontory of Din- 
 dog is another beautiful and interesting object ; 
 but it would be quite impossible to describe the 
 infinite variety of scenes the pedestrian will dis- 
 cover in wandering along the shores of this ex- 
 tended peninsula. 
 
 Having reached the extreme end of the pro- 
 montory, a bridge of one Gothic arch affords a 
 passage to Brickeen island ; and it was the inten- 
 tion of Col. Herbert, at whose expense this arch, 
 was thrown across, to continue the communication 
 between Brickeen and Dinis islands; and thus, by 
 means of Old Weir bridge, the upper Lake might 
 be visited, either by the pedestrian or by a rider 
 mounted on a shelty. 
 
 MANOERTON MOUNTAIN. 
 
 From the little village of Cloghereen a road 
 leads to the base of Mangerton, which, consider- 
 ing its height, is the easiest to ascend of any hill 
 to be met with in a mountainous region. It was 
 for many years considered the highest in Ireland, 
 and set down in the old maps and surveys, as be- 
 ing 2,470 feet in height. But many valuable im- 
 provements have been made in the mode of mea- 
 suring the heights of mountains, by which this 
 error, with many others of a similar description, 
 
102 
 
 MANGERTON MOUNTAIN. 
 
 have been detected. It is now ascertained by the 
 measurement of Mr. Nimmo, that the height of 
 Mangerton is 2,550 feet, while that of Carran 
 Tual is 3,410. 
 
 Near the village a guide, provided with a horn, 
 is generally in attendance, and conducts you by 
 the easiest path towards the summit. Here, how- 
 ever, the tourist is subject to great annoyance, 
 arising from the number of men and boys, who 
 run on every side of him, without uttering a syl- 
 lable, but merely keeping up with his horse. En- 
 treaties to desist from this undertaking, as one 
 would be sufficient to point the way and tell the 
 names of distant objects, are of no avail ; one says, 
 “ No gentleman ever prevented him from ascend- 
 ing the mountain a second avers, ‘‘ That he is 
 the Man of the Mountain and a third declares 
 his resolution of not quitting the party till their 
 return to the village : it is useless to resist, and 
 the visiter has often six or eight guides forced on 
 him, whatever may be his inclination. 
 
 After an ascent of about half an hour, an eleva- 
 tion, equal to that of the summit of Turk, is reach- 
 ed, from which a most perfect bird’s eye view of the 
 lakes, speckled with islands, is obtained, and an 
 idea of their relative positions afforded. At every 
 step after this the view becomes more and more 
 commanding. Keeping to the east of the moun- 
 tain, the Devil’s Punch Bowl is reached, without 
 
MANGERTON MOUNTAIN. 
 
 103 
 
 the trouble or necessity of once dismounting from 
 your shelty. This celebrated pool is of an oval 
 form, and perhaps two furlongs in diameter ; its 
 waters are very dark and cold ; on one side the 
 mountain rises very precipitously over it, while 
 the other is protected by an elevation merely suf- 
 ficient to confine its waters.* Weld mentions an 
 anecdote of Mr. Fox, whom he states as having 
 swam round this pool, but I should think the ex- 
 periment hardly practicable ; for although with 
 respect to distance it might be done by a per- 
 son of great bodily strength, and experience in 
 the art of swimming, yet the cold would most 
 likely produce cramps that would either endanger 
 life or compel the resignation of so hardy an at- 
 tempt. It has generally been considered that the 
 Devil s Punch Bowl is the crater of an extinct 
 volcano, but there are, at this day, no remains 
 discoverable about the mountains to justify 
 this conclusion. There is a path leading round 
 the Bowl, and to the very summit of Mangerton, 
 
 • Bushe’s etymology of the appellation Devil’s Punch 
 Bowl,” is extremely ludicrous. ‘‘ This pool,” says he, 
 being supplied by an inexhaustible spring at the bottom, 
 may and was, consequently, compared to the bowl of punch 
 round which a party was assembled, into the bottom of 
 which Satan had inserted an invisible spring, imperceptibly 
 recruiting the continued decrease of the liquor within.’’ — 
 mb, Curiosa, 
 
 + 
 
 -i- 
 
104 
 
 MANGERTON MOUNTAIN. 
 
 from which there is a most extensive and sublime 
 panoramic view in clear weather. The most 
 beautiful object is the river of Kenmare, an arm 
 of the sea, insinuating itself amongst the recesses 
 between the mountains. The coast towards Ban- 
 try is also extremely grand ; but the most com- 
 manding and attractive objects are the Reeks and 
 Sugar-loaf ; to the north-west Castlemain and 
 Dingle bays, Miltowm bay, and the Tralee moun- 
 tains are seen. While on the edge of the Punch 
 Bowl, the Guide places his auditors behind a rock, 
 and descending to the edge of the bowl, blows his 
 horn in a tremulous manner, which produces a 
 most singular effect. 
 
 The summit of Mangerton is flat, and princi- 
 pally covered with a deep stratum of peat-moss, 
 which in the driest weather is so wet as to be 
 unpleasant to walk on. In common with the 
 mountains of this district various species of sax- 
 ifrage is to be found along its sides. It has been 
 carefully examined by several botanists, and the 
 plants peculiar to it will be found detailed at length 
 in Mackay's Irish Flora. 
 
 On Mangerton is found a species of whetting 
 stone, whose grit is extremely fine ; it is used by 
 the peasantry for razor hones : when found upon 
 the mountains, it is of a light olive colour ; but 
 
MANGERTON MOUNTAIN. 
 
 105 
 
 the process of preparation, by boiling it in oil, 
 changes the colour to a darker shade, and makes it 
 assume a more close, smooth, and compact tex- 
 ture. 
 
 From the Devil’s Punch Bowl flows a w^ell-sup- 
 plied stream, the chief feeder of Turk Cascade. 
 
 After surveying the grand spectacle from the 
 top of Mangerton, there is a descent by a differ- 
 ent route, which the guide is unwilling to be at 
 the trouble of showing you, but which is much 
 more interesting than the path by which the 
 ascent was made ; it is that by the Glen of the 
 Horse, called by the inhabitants of the mountain, 
 GLE ANNA C APULL.” This Glen is divided 
 from the Punch Bowl, by a lofty ridge or shoulder 
 of the hill ; its sides are quite precipitous, and a 
 descent is, except in a few places, quite imprac- 
 ticable, and even in these not unattended with 
 danger. One side consists entirely of broken 
 craggy rocks, the habitation of the eagle alone ; 
 the bottom is occupied by two small dark loughs, 
 on whose banks a few sheep and goats are enabled 
 to procure subsistence for some months in the 
 year. In this solitary region of desolation, which 
 the man of the world would turn from with fear 
 and trembling, human beings are known to spend 
 part of their wretched existence : their dwellings 
 are in the dark and dismal caverns in the rocks, 
 and their only companions the wild birds that 
 
106 
 
 MANGERTON MOUNTAIN. 
 
 scream over their heads, and the cattle which 
 their time is employed in tending. 
 
 The easiest entrance to this secluded glen, is 
 by the narrow opening through which the over- 
 flowing of the pool discharges itself. The name 
 is derived from the circumstance of a horse 
 having fallen down its steep rocky side in winter. 
 The effect of the horn or bugle in this glen is 
 even more extraordinary than in the Punch 
 Bowl, the buz or hum being louder and more tre- 
 mulous. 
 
 From the separating ridge between Gleanna 
 Capull and the Punch Bowl, other pools or 
 loughs are discovered ; one, Lough Na-maragh- 
 narig, in a very elevated situation, and Lough 
 Kittane, about two miles in length and one in 
 breadth, in the Gian Flesk mountain. The view 
 towards Gian Flesk, Filadavne, the Paps, &c. is 
 waste and dreary : that part, usually called O’Do- 
 nohoe’s country, is particularly desert, wild, and 
 desolate. And although at a remote period it was 
 the lordly demesne of a petty prince, as O’Dono- 
 hoe’s castle, still raising its ruined tower in the 
 centre of this barren waste, sufficiently indicates, 
 yet it is now almost ungrateful to the eye to rest 
 upon. 
 
 The descent of Mangerton is more readily ac- 
 complished on foot than on horseback, and is 
 equally easy, pleasant, and interesting, as the 
 
AGHADOE. 
 
 107 
 
 ascent : on the way visiters are generally met by 
 a few children, with bowls of goat’s whey in their 
 hands; and although they do not request the 
 stranger to notice them, they expect he will taste 
 uninvited ; these are the least troublesome, the 
 easiest satisfied, and, after the fatigue of climbing 
 the mountain, the most welcome intruders met 
 with at Killarney. 
 
 The horses are generally led, by one of the 
 many attendants the tourist is compelled to em- 
 ploy, to a convenient place of rendezvous, from 
 whence the ride to Killarney, by Cloghereen, is 
 extremely agreeable and sheltered. Between 
 Killarney and Mucruss, on the opposite side of 
 the road, is a small ruined chapel, on the very 
 summit of a rath, from whence an extensive arid 
 distinct view of the Lower Lake might be taken, 
 but it does not differ much from that seen from 
 the top of Drumarouk hill. 
 
 AGHADOE. 
 
 The road north of Killarney leads to the ruined 
 church and tower of Aghadoe, about two miles 
 and a half distant. Within the deer park of Lord 
 Kenmare, the entrance to which is on this road, 4s 
 a very pleasing view, and one in which the whole 
 detail of the landscape can be minutely and satis- 
 
108 
 
 AGHADOE. 
 
 factorily gazed upon, from a green mound in his 
 lordship’s park, called ‘‘ Kneckriar Hill.” Pro- 
 ceeding towards Aghadoe, we leave Prospect 
 Hall, the seat of G. Cronin, Esq., on the right : 
 from the lawn of this demesne is a fine panoramic 
 view of the Lower Lake, precisely the same as 
 that from Aghadoe, except that the latter is more 
 distant from the different objects. From hence 
 the road is bleak, dreary, and uninteresting for 
 some miles, particularly when the mountain view 
 on the left happens to be intercepted by walls, 
 trees, or hedge-rows. At the end of the second 
 mile a narrow road leads to Aghadoe church, situ- 
 ated on the top of a long, low, green hill. The 
 lane is impassable for carriages of any sort ; but 
 the visiter will not regret the trouble of walking, 
 if the day be fine, and the weather clear, as at 
 every step the view increases in extent, richness, 
 and sublimity. 
 
 The church of Aghadoe is a venerable, an- 
 cient building, originally of but rude workman- 
 ship, measuring, probably, between eighty and 
 ninet}^ feet in length, and about thirty in breadth; 
 the whole length is separated by a thick wall, in 
 which traces of a door-way are discoverable. The 
 chancel was lighted from the east by two long 
 lancet loop-holes, but the whole is, at this day, in 
 such a dilapidated condition, that but a very im- 
 perfect idea can be formed of what it originally 
 
AGHADOE. 
 
 109 
 
 might have been. The door-way is a very mas- 
 terly specimen of the excellence of the art of 
 sculpture in those days ; six successive mouldings, 
 of different patterns, chevron, or zig-zag, and 
 others, ornament its architrave ; and though 
 carved in an exceedingly soft species of stone, 
 are all perfect and beautiful specimens of a mas- 
 ter's hand. 
 
 The date of the foundation of this abbey has 
 not yet been ascertained. 
 
 The present appearance of the ruin and ceme- 
 tery is extremely disgusting, and the smell fre- 
 quently offensive : skulls, bones, and coffin-lids, 
 are scattered every where, in the same horrible 
 manner as at Mucruss, Ardfert, and Lislaghtlin ; 
 and although divested of the gloomy accompani- 
 ments of long dark aisle and shady yew, still 
 appear chilling and terrific. The number interred 
 here exceeds that at Mucruss, partly because this 
 is considered a more ancient cemetery, and partly 
 because it is free from charge for burial. 
 
 Near the church are the ruins of an old round 
 castle, usually called the Pulpit, the interior dia- 
 meter of which is twenty-five feet ; its height, at 
 present, is about thirty feet, nor does it appear to 
 have been much more lofty. It evidently con- 
 sisted of but two stories, of which the lower or 
 basement was lighted by one window, the second 
 by three. The ascent was by a staircase, con- 
 
no 
 
 AGHADOfi. 
 
 / 
 
 structed within the wall. Round castles are rather 
 uncommon in Ireland ; there are two others, how- 
 ever, ne^irly of the same height and diameter as 
 this of Aghadoe, existing, the one at Waterford, 
 called Reginald's Tower,” the other in the 
 county of Tipperary, called ‘‘ Nenagh Round.” 
 Dolbadern Castle, in the vale of Llanberris, in 
 North Wales, is extremely like this at Aghadoe, 
 which must have been a place of defence, as 
 appears from the fosse and mound encompassing 
 it. 
 
 In the Collectanea de Rebus Hibernicis, may 
 be seen a plate of a stone in the walls of Aghadoe 
 Cathedral, on which is cut an inscription in the 
 Ogham character. This mysterious hieroglyphical 
 letter^ whose powers are now totally lost, was used 
 by the ancient Irish or Indo-Scythians. The in- 
 scriptions are merely horizontal, or perpendicular 
 lines, intersected at right angles by a number of 
 parallel lines, or darts, of unequal lengths. The 
 learned Mr. Pelham supplied General Vallancey 
 with many instances of such inscriptions in the 
 county of Kerry, which have been published in 
 the sixth volume of the Collectanea. 
 
 As to the meaning or translations of these 
 mystical writings, the antiquarian should conjec- 
 ture with caution ; one instance from many may 
 indicate the propriety of this advice. In the cata- 
 logue of inscribed stones, in the sixth vol. of the 
 
DUNLOE. 
 
 Ill 
 
 Collectanea, is one mentioned as being found in 
 the county of Kilkenny by Mr. Tighe, and said 
 to bear an inscription in the Pelasgic letter, which 
 in Homan characters would be belli di lose. 
 This, after much learned disquisition, General 
 Vallancey has sagaciously translated thus : ‘‘To 
 Belus, God of Fire,” whereas, had it occurred to 
 these learned gentlemen, who really were an or- 
 nament and benefit to their country, to turn the 
 inscription upside down, they would have found 
 in plain English, the following name and date ; 
 “E. CONID, 1731,” it having since been found 
 to be the fact, that it was cut by a stone-mason of 
 that name, who lived in the neighbourhood. 
 
 One subject yet remains to be spoken of, before 
 we quit the antiquities of Aghadoe, viz. the Round 
 Tower, within a few yards of the church. The 
 remains of this building are rather insignificant, 
 not exceeding twenty feet in height, and com- 
 pletely filled with rubbish ; it was built of brown 
 stone, trimmed on the exterior surface. 
 
 DUNLOE. 
 
 Close to Aghadoe the improvements of Lord 
 Headley commence. The extensive plantations 
 and other improvements connected with the hand- 
 some residence lately erected by his lordship, 
 have added much to the appearance of this part of 
 
 § 
 
112 
 
 DUNLOE. 
 
 / 
 
 the country. Before you reach the river Laune, 
 is the residence of Mr. James O’Connell, and beyond 
 the bridge the Castle of Dunloe appears raising its 
 head amongst the forest trees, and having its gloomy 
 outline relieved on the surface of the still gloomier 
 mountains behind. This castle, the residence of Ma- 
 jor Mahony, is an ancient hold, modernised in a 
 comfortable manner. This castle was frequently 
 the retreat of the Kerry chieftains in the wars, dur- 
 ing the reign of Elizabeth, and under the Common- 
 wealth government. Near to this is Grinagh, the 
 seat of John O’Connell, Esq. commanding fine 
 views of the lake ; and in the immediate neigh- 
 bourhood is the seat of the Hon. Mr. Mullins. 
 
 A mountain road leads from Dunloe into a 
 defile in the mountains between Tomies and 
 M^Gillicuddy’s Reeks, called the Gap of Dunloe. 
 The hill on one side of the entrance is called the 
 Holly mountain, that on the other, the Bull 
 mountain, but both are mere shoulders or projec- 
 tions of the larger hills. The entrance to the 
 gap is very narrow, and the mountains quite per- 
 pendicular on either side. In a little wild roman- 
 tic glen, a small distance from the entrance, is a 
 small lake, whose waters assume a particularly 
 dark hue, from the reflexion of the enormous 
 mountain which hangs so immediately over it. 
 On penetrating into the defile, our admira. 
 tion of the wild scenery is gradually exchang- 
 
BUNLOE. 
 
 113 
 
 ed for a feeling of awe and an impression of fear, 
 until a pass is reached, so narrow that there is 
 space merely for the scanty road and the little 
 dark, gloomy, lake beside it ; the hills on either 
 side ascend in steep, perpendicular, precipitous 
 crags ; masses of enormous bulk lie tossed about 
 in all the terrific sublimity of chaos, and instances 
 have been known of persons, who, when they 
 have arrived at this spot, were so paralysed with 
 terror, that no earthly inducement could persuade 
 them to advance, dreading that the mountain 
 might fall and overwhelm them. Two small 
 bridges are thrown across the stream which runs 
 through the defile, in the narrowest parts of the 
 channel; yet, from the simplicity of their struc- 
 ture, these do not interrupt the character of the 
 scenery. In one particular part of the pass, the 
 road runs along the margin of a black pool, and 
 is so unprotected, as to inspire the equestrian 
 traveller with fears, that, should his horse trip, he 
 might be precipitated into the lake. But a scene 
 of this description defies the address of the most 
 expert tourist, and the pencil of the ablest master ; 
 it must be seen to be understood. Those who 
 have visited the passes of Borrowdale, in Cumber- 
 land, may form a faint idea of the chilling, drear}^ 
 grandeur of Dunloe ; but the pass of Llanberris, 
 in North Wales, bears a still greater resemblance, 
 and he who has seen the Gap of Dunloe, will not 
 
 1 
 
114 
 
 DUNLOE. 
 
 be overawed by the sublimity of Llanberris, nor 
 will the deep rooted image of Dunloe be eradi- 
 cated by the combined beauty and grandeur of 
 Borrowdale. 
 
 From the entrance of the Gap to the farther 
 end, opening into the vale of Comme Duif, thence 
 to Gheramine, the seat of Lord Brandon, is about 
 four miles ; the road from the outlet of the Gap 
 to his lordship’s cottage is in a rude, unfinished 
 state, but improvements are daily making. Here 
 a long-extended valley is opened to the view ; at 
 the western extremity of which is a very consi- 
 derable lough, called the Red Trout Lake. 
 Nearly opposite the termination of the Gap is a 
 beautiful waterfall, of considerable height, and 
 always plentifully supplied ; the waters of this fall 
 flow into a succession of small lakes, occupying 
 the whole length of the valley. In some are small 
 islands bearing shrubs upon their surface, and 
 others are decorated with water lilies. A visit to 
 this valley would occupy only one day, and would 
 richly compensate the visiter. The overflow of 
 the three lakes of Comme Duff discharges itself 
 into the upper lake at Cariguline. 
 
115 
 
 ASCENT OF CARRAN TUAL.* 
 
 The youthful traveller seldom quits the scene 
 of inquiry without ascending the highest moun- 
 tain and penetrating the deepest glen. In all 
 mountainous districts there is always one peak 
 famed for its extraordinary elevation and difficulty 
 of access. In the vicinity of Lough Lein, Carran 
 Tual is the cloud-capped summit, marked out as 
 the highest. Mangerton was formerly considered 
 higher, but the late measurements of Mr. Nimmo 
 have shown Carran Tual to be three thousand, 
 four hundred and ten feet above the level of the 
 sea, while Mangerton is only two thousand, five 
 hundred and fifty. 
 
 Having taken horse at Killarney, pursue the 
 Aghadoe road, and so pass over the Laune bridge, 
 by Dunloe gate ; then, turning to the right, at the 
 distance of a mile, is a little village, at the very 
 foot of the Reeks. Here a guide, who under- 
 stands the shortest routes up the hill, and is, con- 
 sequently, better qualified than any person from 
 Killarney, may be had for a trifling sum. Being 
 properly equipped for an arduous and laborious 
 pedestrian excursion, direct your course towards 
 
 * L e. “ The inverted reaping hook,” which the outline 
 of the summit strongly resembles. 
 
 I 2 
 
116 ASCENT OF CARRAN TUAL, 
 
 the mountain, either leaving your horses at the 
 guide’s cottage until you return, or, which is a 
 much more advisable plan, sending them back to 
 Killarney, having previously directed a boat to 
 meet you, at Lord Brandon’s boat-house, at the 
 extremity of the Upper Lake. 
 
 The mountain bridle-road leads from the vil- 
 lage, over a low range of hills, to Mr. Blenner- 
 hasset’s shooting lodge, on the banks of the river 
 Giddah, a considerable mountain torrent, flowing 
 into the Lauiie. On Lishbaun mountain is the 
 first view of Dingle bay ; and, crossing the 
 Gaddah river, and passing a gradually sloping 
 vale of moss and rock, (very . fatiguing to the 
 pedestrian whose feet are not protected by very 
 strong shoes,) the Hag s Glen is entered. To 
 the right a lofty green mountain, called Konnock 
 a Brianihn, ^. e, the hill of the sheep-raddle, 
 darkens the valley, and opposite is the beetling 
 brow of the lower reeks, perfectl}^ inaccessible 
 to all but the wild birds which nestle in their 
 fronts. 
 
 The Hag’s Tooth is a small conical projection 
 from the mountain, resembling the flying buttress 
 of some mouldering edifice. Around and above 
 are seen small black lakes, whose tints are bor- 
 rowed from the impending crags, called the 
 Devil’s Lough and the Hag’s Lough, &c. the 
 latter having a small island in the centre. While 
 
ASCENT OF CARRAN TUAL. 117 
 
 gazing on the ruinous prospect which surrounds 
 on every side, except the path by which this se- 
 questered excavation is entered, the visiter forgets 
 for a moment the task to be accomplished ; but 
 the suggestion of the guide that the sun delays 
 not his daily course, quickly recals him to a sense 
 of the voluntary labour he has undertaken. To 
 the query of which way ?” the guide only raises 
 his cudgel, and points to a cleft in the face of the 
 mountain, formed by a rill that occasionally 
 forces its way down in rainy weather. A feeling 
 of vanity, natural to pedestrians, prevents any 
 observation upon the manifest difficulty and even 
 danger of the ascent, and the attack is generally 
 begun in silence and determination. For about a 
 quarter of a mile the path continues up the steep, 
 through rocks, stones, long grass, moss, and 
 shingle ; whenever a steady footing is obtained 
 for a moment, you are induced to turn and enjoy 
 the scenery ; but from the deep retreat in which 
 the pathway is embosomed, the view is greatly 
 contracted, and altogether interrupted towards the 
 west. This steep pass once overcome, the diffi- 
 culties vanish, but are succeeded by ideas of 
 danger. The way to the highest peak lies along 
 the summit of a ridge, something like the red 
 ridge on Snowdon, the top of which is narrow, 
 convex, and covered with grass, so short and slip- 
 pery that it can hardly be walked over in dry 
 
118 
 
 ASCENT OF CARRAN TUAL. 
 
 weather, unless in stocking feet. The tops of the 
 reeks are composed of a species of shingle, which, 
 after heavy falls of snow, loosens and unbinds, 
 and glides down the mountain’s breast in the 
 thaw ; for this reason naturalists say the height of 
 the reeks may have been sensibly diminished in 
 the lapse of time. The principal stone to be 
 found upon the reeks is sand-stone, and the plants 
 are the same as those on Mangerton, London- 
 pride growing in great abundance. 
 
 The view from the top is most commanding to- 
 wards the west. From hence are visible Dingle 
 and Castlemain bays, the Tralee mountain, &c. ; 
 to the south, Ban try bay, and the indented coast 
 of Kerry. 
 
 The remaining reeks appear like so many in- 
 clined planes, whose angles of inclination are all 
 equal, so that they appear to lie in parallel strata. 
 On the tops of several are small loughs, like 
 those on Mangerton and the high mountains in 
 the range. 
 
 The view to the south-west presents a moun- 
 tainous scene of the boldest description, the 
 Glencar and M‘Gillicuddy’s mountains, with an 
 endless succession of immeasurably extended 
 wilds. 
 
 The descent into the valley of Comme Duff is 
 tedious, but not difficult ; the inclination is rather 
 too precipitate to permit comfortable walking, and 
 
CARRAGH LAKES. 
 
 119 
 
 this renders it extremely fatiguing. Having 
 reached the valley, there is a rugged, stony path, 
 winding along through little deserted hamlets and 
 barren wastes, which, after pursuing it for about 
 four miles, brings you to the destined place of 
 rendezvous. 
 
 CARRAGH LAKES. 
 
 We shall now direct the attention of the 
 tourist to the Lakes of Carragh, situate within 
 13 miles of Killarney, and approachable by an 
 excellent and interesting road. The Lakes are 
 two, the upper and lower. Taking boat at any 
 of the cottages on the Lower Lake, the visiter 
 should row for an island known as the Castle, from 
 which he will have the gratification of beholding 
 M^Gillicuddy’s Reeks, and the Glencar mountains 
 in decidedly their finest point of view ; he should 
 then proceed along the eastern shore to Mackan- 
 agh island, on which are the ruins of an ancient 
 chapel. Now commences the channel to the 
 Upper Lake. The most prominent feature in its 
 scenery is a bold crag called the Eagle’s Nest, 
 still more precipitous than its grand and beautiful 
 namesake at Killarney. The contrast between 
 the wild sterility of this and the bright verdure of 
 
120 
 
 CARRAGH LAKES. 
 
 the wooded and undulating lands — the green 
 foreground relieved by the deep blue of the sur- 
 rounding hills, in consequence of whose varjdng 
 attitudes the waters of the lake are seen in 
 every variety of light and shade — all these 
 present at once a scene of fascinating beauty, a 
 magical combination of the sublime and soft 
 which, never failing to draw forth the warmest 
 admiration when first beheld, ensure tlie moun- 
 tain lakes a lasting place among the most pleasing 
 recollections of the intelligent tourist. At the 
 upper end the lake is supplied by the Black Stones 
 river, which being navigable for about a mile, 
 leads into the midst of the finest mountain scenery 
 in Kerry. The mountains rise around on every 
 side, their countless tops most generally fantasti- 
 cally wreathed in mist, and . stretching away as 
 far as the eye can reach, summit over summit, 
 until terminated in the distance by the lofty peak 
 Athur, towering over all — the lonely sentinel of 
 the enchanting scene. Those who are disposed 
 to complete their tour by visiting a spot at once 
 so wild and singularly beautiful, will find accom- 
 modation at the small inn of Glanbegh about 
 two miles distant from the lakes, which is kept 
 by Coates, an Englishman ; from which place 
 there is also a remarkably interesting drive by 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 
 
 121 
 
 Lord Headley’s plantations under and along the 
 base of the steep Druryhill. 
 
 The road commands a delightful view of the 
 noble bay of Castlemain and the Dingle moun- 
 tains, altogether, probably one of the most inter- 
 esting portions of all the sea coast scenery of 
 Ireland. 
 
 Those who join a taste for angling to the admi- 
 ration of natural beauty, will perhaps consider the 
 fact of its being full of trout and salmon an ad- 
 ditional inducement to visit Carragh Lakes. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 
 
 The tourist who has time to spare, and whose 
 feelings are alive to the beauties and sublimities 
 of nature, will find ample employment at Killar- 
 ney, even under the utmost economy of time, for 
 at least six days. Those who are limited as to 
 time may visit the more remarkable places and 
 obtain a pretty correct idea of the Lakes and 
 adjacent mountains in three days ; but in not less 
 than two days, with the utmost activity, can a 
 correct knowledge even of the outlines of the 
 general scenery be obtained. 
 
 To see Killarney we do not think it necessary 
 to climb to the summit of Mangerton, or any of 
 the other higher mountain ranges ; for unless the 
 
12^ DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 
 
 day is fine, and the sky clear, and no scientific 
 wish to be gratified apart from the mere views to 
 be obtained, the tourist will be but poorly recom- 
 pensed for his time and trouble. Besides, the 
 Lakes and surrounding shores, under the most 
 favourable circumstances, are not seen to advan- 
 tage from such a height — they appear as mere 
 specks in the immensity of space. The relative 
 position of the different mountains and seabays, 
 in short the topography of the surrounding coun- 
 try is, however, fully disclosed ; and in this respect 
 the views will amply gratify every admirer of na- 
 tural scenery. We would strongly recommend 
 the tourist on reaching Killarney, to make him- 
 self acquainted with the general outlines of the 
 country he means to perambulate, and not to 
 trust himself wholly to the whims of the waiter, 
 or the local prejudices of the guide. With this 
 view we shall endeavour chiefly to point out what 
 we consider the best routes, according as the 
 tourist may be limited or not in time ; but pre- 
 vious to this we beg to make a few remarks on 
 the general character of the scenery, which may 
 help future arrangements. 
 
 The geography of the mountains, &c. which 
 constitute the more remarkable features around 
 Killarney, and which is rendered so difficult of 
 comprehension by the confusion of names given 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 
 
 123 
 
 to the different peaks and projections may be thus 
 simplified : — 
 
 Standing on Knuckriar hill in the west demesne, 
 or on any of the more elevated grounds over the 
 town, a chain of mountains of about forty miles 
 in length will be seen stretching from Mill-street 
 past Killarney, towards the mouth of Dingle Bay. 
 
 Beginning on the east with those more imme- 
 diately connected with our present object, is 
 Crohanne, a conical mountain, separated from 
 Mangerton by a narrow glen ; secondly, Man- 
 gerton, presenting an immense outline, and its 
 northern sides broken by several crater-like hol- 
 lows, the more remarkable of which are the De- 
 vil’s Punch Bowl, and the Glen of the Horse; 
 thirdly, Turk, a conical detached mountain, sepa- 
 rated from Mangerton by the valley in which the 
 old road to Kenrnare runs, and from the Purple 
 mountain by the flat tract of land through which 
 the river connecting the upper with the lower 
 lakes flows ; fourthly, the Purple Range, which 
 lengthways stretches along and forms the southern 
 boundaries of the Lower Lakes, including, on this 
 side, the lofty peaks of Glena and Tommies. In its 
 breadth it occupies the space between the Upper 
 and Lower Lakes, and the sides which bound the 
 Upper Lake on the north are called the Long 
 Range. This range is separated from Mac Gilli- 
 cuddy’s Reeks by the Gap of Dunloe ; fifthly, 
 
124 DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 
 
 Mac Giilicuddy’s Reeks, which blend with the 
 distant mountains running westward to Dingle 
 Bay. 
 
 The Lower Lake, sometimes called Lough 
 Lane, has been calculated to occupy an area of 
 five thousand statute acres; the middle, called 
 Turk Lake, one thousand, and the Upper, one 
 thousand two hundred. The river course con- 
 necting the Upper and Lower Lake, from Dinas 
 island, is about two and a quarter Irish miles. 
 The principal supplies of the Upper Lake are the 
 streams from the cascades of Comme Duff, Derry- 
 cunehy, and Esknaraucky. Those of the Lower 
 Lakes are the streams from Turk Cascade, and 
 O’Sullivan’s, and the rivers Flesk and Denagh. 
 The great outlet called the river Lane is at the 
 northern end of the Lake near Grinagh, the seat 
 of Mr. James O’Connell. 
 
 NO. I. ONE day’s tour. 
 
 To see Killarney in a general way, and the Gap of 
 Dunloe, 
 
 Supposing the tourist to have reached Kil- 
 larney either by the Limerick or Cork roads, 
 and means to proceed to Glengariff by Kenmare, 
 let him make arrangements the preceding evening 
 to have a guide and pony ready in the morning 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 
 
 125 
 
 for Dunloe, and a boat to be in waiting for him 
 at the head of the Upper Lake. Send some re- 
 freshment in the boat, and should the awakening 
 of the echoes be an object, a bugleman may be 
 selected as the guide. Arrange also to have a 
 person to take back the pony from the valley of 
 Comme Duff. 
 
 For particulars of the road, and the lakes, &c. 
 we refer the tourist to what has been stated 
 under the heads of Aghadoe, Dunloe, the Upper, 
 Middle, and Lower Lakes, &c. In addition, we 
 have only to direct his attention to Lord Head- 
 ley’s lodge near Aghadoe, and to recommend him 
 not to Visit the falls of Derrycunehy and Turk in 
 his progress down the lakes, as they can be seen 
 much more advantageously on his way to Ken- 
 mare, besides his time will not admit of these 
 divergencies, as it will take four hours at least 
 between Killarney and the valley of Comme 
 Duff ; and the remainder of the day will be re- 
 quired for the lakes. We may add that a carriage 
 can travel half way through the Gap of Dunloe. 
 On his way to Kenmare the following morning, 
 the tourist can visit Mucruss, Turk waterfall, 
 Drumruark hill, and Derricunehy fall, all in their 
 order as detailed in pages 41 and 42. 
 
 In the event of approaching Killarney by the 
 Kenmare road,' and afterwards to proceed either 
 to Valentia, Tralee, Limerick or Cork, the tourist 
 
126 DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 
 
 will of course reverse the above arrangement, 
 and avail himself of the various interesting points 
 noted above as he proceeds. 
 
 NO. II. TWO days’ tour. 
 
 Should the arrival be by the Limerick or Cork 
 roads, the first day to be employed as directed 
 under No. 1. The second day to the ascent of 
 Mangerton, and in surveying more leisurely the 
 Falls of Derrycunehy and Turk ; the Abbey and 
 grounds of Mucruss. 
 
 NO. III. THREE days’ TOUR. 
 
 The first day we would recommend to be wholly 
 devoted to the Lower and Middle Lakes, and 
 islands. The second day to the Gap of Dunloe, 
 and the Upper Lake, dining either on Dinas, 
 Glena, or Inisfallen, The third to the ascent of 
 Mangerton, and all the scenery connected with 
 the Kenmare road. All these particulars are 
 detailed at length under the references noted in 
 No. 1. 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 
 
 127 
 
 NO. IV. FOUR DA.YS’ TOUR. 
 
 The first three days as in No. 3. On the fourth 
 we would recommend the tourist to visit the lakes 
 of Carragh, as detailed under that head. 
 
 There is still the ascent of Carran Tual, which 
 will occupy another day, and those who have lei- 
 sure will find ample employment for at least two 
 days more in visiting the minor parts composing 
 the general scenery we have merely glanced over, 
 in our plans of route. In conclusion, we again 
 beg the tourist in the first instance, to make him- 
 self acquainted wdth the general outlines of Kil- 
 larney and its environs; this he can readily do, 
 by reference to his map, and a few observations 
 made from the various higher grounds every 
 where around, which will greatly simplify his 
 arrangements and free him from the confusion 
 arising from the conflicting and marvellous stories 
 of waiters, ostlers, fiddlers, buglemen, boatmen, 
 and guides. 
 
128 
 
 LIST OF THE ISLANDS IN THE DIFFERENT LAKES. 
 
 Ross Island 
 O’Donohoe’s Prison 
 Cherry Island 
 Inisfailen Island 
 Mouse Island 
 Heron Island 
 Lamb Island 
 Rabbit Island 
 Rough Island 
 Yew Island 
 Cow Island 
 Jackdaw Island 
 Osprey Island 
 Drinking Horse 
 Pigeon Island 
 Crow Island 
 O’Doriohoe’s Table 
 
 LOWER LAKE. 
 
 Alexander’s Rock 
 Friar’s Island 
 Tom Cole’s Rock 
 Currigahocca Rock 
 Oak Island 
 Gunnet Rock 
 Gun Rock 
 Darby’s Garden 
 Burnt Island 
 Brickeen Island 
 Dinis Island 
 Miss Plummer’s Island 
 The Three Friends 
 . Sugar Island 
 Coarse Island 
 Ash Island 
 
 TURK LAKE. 
 
 There is but one, the Devil’s Island. 
 
 UPPER LAKE. 
 
 I M‘Carthy’s Island 
 1 Ronan’s Island 
 I Duck Island 
 j Stag Island, &c. &c. 
 
 Rossburkie, or Oak Island 
 Arbutus Island 
 Eagle’s Island 
 Knight of Kerry’s Island 
 
 Cascades in the neighbourhood of the lakes are — O’Sul- 
 livan’s, Comme Duff Falls, Filadaune, Turk, Eskna- 
 inucky, JJerrycunehy. 
 
 Heights of the Mountains in the vicinity of Lough Lein^ and of the 
 Chain extending from Mangerton to Mill-street, — From the Survey 
 of Mr. Nimmo. 
 
 Carran Tual (the highest of the Reeks) 3410 feet 
 
 Mangerton , 
 
 Purple Mountain^ 
 
 Slieve Meesh , 
 
 Tomies . 
 
 Glena ^ 
 
 I’urk ^ 
 
 Lake above the level of the sea . 
 
 2550 
 
 2280 
 
 2200 
 
 2150 
 
 2090 
 
 1900 
 
 50 
 
 Dunloe Heads (these are Bull and Holly Mountains) 1100 
 
 CHAIN FROM MANGERTON TO MILL-STREET, 
 
 Crohaune Mountain (over Filadaune),.^ 2175 
 
 Paps (higher of the two) 
 Cahirbarna , 
 
 Gortaveby,^ 
 
 Knock Claragh (near Mill-sti eeC) , 
 
 •2280 
 . 20C0 
 , I5fi0 
 1385 
 
129 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 
 Page 
 
 
 Page 
 
 Abbey of Innisfallen 
 
 
 57 
 
 Danes’ Fort Villa 
 
 92 
 
 M ucruss 
 
 
 92 
 
 Darby’s Garden 
 
 66 
 
 Adair 
 
 
 6 
 
 Derrycunehy 
 
 84 
 
 Aghadoe Lodge 
 
 
 44 
 
 Devil’s Island 
 
 . . 76 
 
 Cemetery 
 
 
 109 
 
 Lough 
 
 116 
 
 — r Church 
 
 
 108 
 
 Punch Bowl 
 
 103 
 
 Tower 
 
 
 111 
 
 Stream 
 
 75 
 
 Annals of Inisfallen 
 
 
 58 
 
 Dindog Promontory 
 
 101 
 
 Ardnagaschil 
 
 .. 
 
 17 
 
 Dingle Bay 
 
 .. 4,104 
 
 Ascent of Carran Tual 
 
 
 115 
 
 Dinis Island Cottage 
 
 .. 45,76 
 
 
 
 
 Directions for Tourists 
 
 121 
 
 Bantry Bay 
 
 ,, 
 
 9, 12 
 
 Distances, Table of 
 
 3 
 
 Town 
 
 
 8' 
 
 Drumruark Hill 
 
 42 
 
 Bantry’s Lord, Lodge 
 
 
 30 
 
 D unboy 
 
 36 
 
 Battle of Knockniclachy 
 
 
 46 
 
 Dunemarc 
 
 16 
 
 Bearhaven 
 
 
 13, 38 
 
 Dunloe, Gap of 
 
 112 
 
 Bed of Honour 
 
 . , 
 
 56 
 
 
 
 Books, Rock 
 
 
 50 
 
 Eagle’s Nest 
 
 30, 78. 99 
 
 Brandon’s, Lord, Tower 
 
 *8*0, 
 
 , 84, 89 
 
 Echoes 
 
 51, 67, 79 
 
 Brickheen Bridge 
 
 
 73 
 
 Esk Mountain 
 
 39 
 
 vvwp^Island 
 
 
 73 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Festival of St. Francis 
 
 97 
 
 Caha, Lakes 
 
 
 37 
 
 Flesk Castle 
 
 44 
 
 Cahirnane seat 
 
 
 92 
 
 River 
 
 44 
 
 Carragh Lakes 
 
 
 119 
 
 
 
 Carran Tual, ascent of 
 
 
 115 
 
 Gaddagh River 
 
 116 
 
 Cascade — Derrycunehy 
 
 
 42, 83 
 
 Gap of Dunloe 
 
 112 
 
 Esknamucky 
 
 
 S3 
 
 Gheramine 
 
 114 
 
 O’Sullivan’s 
 
 
 62 
 
 Ghoul Mountain 
 
 22 
 
 ™™Turk 
 
 
 42, 7o 
 
 Glanbegh Inn 
 
 120 
 
 Castledermot 
 
 
 38 
 
 Glanmore Valley- 
 
 37 
 
 Castle Island 
 
 
 6 
 
 Glen of the Horse 
 
 105 
 
 Castlemain Bay 
 
 101,121 
 
 Glena Banquetting-house 
 
 45 
 
 Castlelough Bay 
 
 
 66 
 
 — — Bay 
 
 67 
 
 .House 
 
 
 92 
 
 Cottage 
 
 68 
 
 Castles, Carriganass 
 
 
 18 
 
 Glen Flesk 
 
 4 
 
 Dunloe 
 
 
 112 
 
 Glengariff 
 
 . . 4, 26 
 
 .Pulpit 
 
 
 109 
 
 Gougane Barra 
 
 21 
 
 Rindisart 
 
 
 17 
 
 Grinagh House. 
 
 112 
 
 — — Ross 
 
 
 46 
 
 
 
 Cloghereen Inn 
 
 
 42 
 
 Hag’s Glen 
 
 116 
 
 Village 
 
 
 45 
 
 •Heights of Mountains 
 
 128 
 
 Coffin Point 
 
 
 87 
 
 Hungry.hill Waterfall 
 
 36 
 
 Coleman’s Leap 
 
 
 81 
 
 
 
 Comrae Duff Pass 
 
 
 41 
 
 Inisfallen Banquetting-house 45,61 
 
 — Valley 
 
 
 41,85 
 
 Islands. 
 
 
 Copper Mines 
 
 
 100 
 
 Arbutus ■ 
 
 89 
 
 Coorloum River 
 
 
 18 
 
 Bear 
 
 13 
 
 Cromiglaun Mountain 
 
 41, 
 
 80, 83 
 
 Burnt 
 
 66 
 
130 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 
 Islands. 
 
 Page 
 
 Mountains. 
 
 ‘Page 
 
 Duck 
 
 89 
 
 Glencar 
 
 
 119 
 
 Four Friends 
 
 80 
 
 Hungry 
 
 10, 
 
 . 28 
 
 Heron 
 
 .. 53 
 
 Konnock 
 
 
 1 16 
 
 Holly 
 
 80 
 
 Lishbaun 
 
 
 116 
 
 Inisfallen 
 
 53 
 
 M anger ton 41, 
 
 67, 
 
 101 
 
 Lamb 
 
 53 
 
 Newfoundland 
 
 
 80 
 
 List of 
 
 .. 128 
 
 Purple 
 
 41 
 
 ,86 
 
 Mackanagh 
 
 119 
 
 Tomies 
 
 52 
 
 , 63 
 
 M'Carthy’s 
 
 89 
 
 Tralee 
 
 62, 
 
 104 
 
 Babbit 
 
 .. 13,53 
 
 Turk 
 
 67, 
 
 100 
 
 Ross 
 
 45 
 
 Mouse Island 
 
 
 58 
 
 Stag 
 
 .. G6,89 
 
 Moyallah River 
 
 
 61 
 
 St. Finbar 
 
 24 
 
 Mucruss Abbey 
 
 
 92 
 
 Whiddy 
 
 .. 12 
 
 ^Demesne 
 
 
 98 
 
 
 
 .^Promontory 
 
 
 66 
 
 Kavoge River 
 
 87 
 
 
 
 
 Keminea Pass 
 
 .. 5.19 
 
 Newcastle 
 
 
 5 
 
 Kenmare’s Lord, Boathouse 50 
 
 
 
 
 Cottage 
 
 68 
 
 O’Donchce’s Prison 
 
 
 51 
 
 Mansion-house 43 
 
 Ogham inscriptions 
 
 
 no 
 
 Kenmare Town 
 
 .. 40 
 
 Old Weir Bridge 
 
 
 77 
 
 Killarney Town 
 
 42 
 
 O’Sullivan's Cascade 
 
 
 62 
 
 Knuck-na-fiach-hill 
 
 8 
 
 Grotto 
 
 
 64 
 
 Knuckriar Hill .. 
 
 ..108,123 
 
 Punch Bowl 
 
 
 77 
 
 
 
 Ouvane River 
 
 17 
 
 , 18 
 
 Lakes. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Allua 
 
 .. 5 
 
 Park House 
 
 
 43 
 
 Caha 
 
 37 
 
 Passage to Upper Lake . . 
 
 
 77 
 
 Carragh 
 
 119 
 
 Priest’s Leap 
 
 
 18 
 
 Glannmore . . 
 
 37 
 
 Prospect Hall 
 
 
 108 
 
 Gougane Barra 
 
 .. 5,22 
 
 ^-^^^^.^^House 
 
 
 44 
 
 Lower 
 
 .. 45,91 
 
 Pulpit 
 
 
 109 
 
 Turk 
 
 .. 72,91 
 
 Purple Mountain 
 
 
 86 
 
 Upper 
 
 .. 82,91 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Limerick 
 
 4 
 
 Roads, 
 
 
 
 Loughs. 
 
 
 Cork to Bantry 
 
 
 7 
 
 Devil’s 
 
 116 
 
 Cork to Killarney ^ 
 
 
 3 
 
 Hag’s 
 
 116 
 
 Glengariff to Killarney 
 
 
 39 
 
 Kittane 
 
 106 
 
 Glengarilf to Kenmare 
 
 
 39 
 
 Lein 
 
 .. 51,115 
 
 Kenmare to Killarney 
 
 
 41 
 
 Na-maraghnarig 
 
 106 
 
 Limerick to Killarney 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Ronan’s Cottage 
 
 
 88 
 
 Mac Gillicuddy’s Reeks 10, 84, 115 
 
 Rosalucha 
 
 
 25 
 
 Macroom 
 
 4,5 
 
 Ross Castle, siege of 
 
 
 46 
 
 Manger ton 
 
 105 
 
 ...^.Island 
 
 
 45 
 
 Man of War 
 
 78 
 
 Rossburkie, or Oak Island 
 
 
 87 
 
 Mill, street 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 Miltown Bay 
 
 104 
 
 Salmon Fishery 
 
 
 68 
 
 Minister’s Back 
 
 76 
 
 Seacourt 
 
 
 15 
 
 Mountains. 
 
 
 Southill Villa 
 
 
 92 
 
 Baum 
 
 41 
 
 Stag Hunt 
 
 
 69 
 
 Carran Tual 
 
 .. 102,115 
 
 
 
 
 Crohanne 
 
 123 
 
 Tarbert 
 
 
 4 
 
 Cromiglaun 
 
 .. 41,83 
 
 Tourists, Directions for .. 
 
 
 121 
 
 Coombui 
 
 84 
 
 for one day 
 
 
 124 
 
 Derrycunehy 
 
 .. 41,83 
 
 ... for two days 
 
 
 126 
 
 Derrydimna 
 
 .. 41,83 
 
 for three days . . 
 
 
 126 
 
 Drumruark 
 
 .. 42, 107 
 
 for four days 
 
 
 127 
 
 Gheramine 
 
 41 
 
 Tralee 
 
 
 4 
 
 Ghoul 
 
 29 
 
 Tufk Cotfage 
 
 
 75 
 
 Gian Fiesk .. 
 
 106 
 
 
 
 
 Glena 
 
 52 
 
 Yew Tree at Mucruss 
 
 
 95 
 
 THE END,