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 THE 
 
 ORIENTALIST 
 
 CONTAINING A SERIES OF 
 
 CaUfi, Eesmtls-- anti fli^iorifal momancfs' ; 
 
 THOMAS BACON, ESQ., F.S.A, 
 
 lUTHOR OF "FIRST I JITRESSIONS, AND STUDIES FROM NATURE IN HINDOSTAN/ 
 ' ETC. ETC. 
 
 ENGRAVINGS BY W. AND E. FINDEX, 
 
 FROM 
 
 SKETCHES BY THE AUTHOR, 
 
 AND 
 
 CAPTAIN MEADOWS TAYLOR, 
 
 OF THE SERVICE OF HIS HIGHJIESS THE XI2AM. 
 
 FIRST SERIES. 
 LONDON : 
 
 PUBLISHED FOR THE PROPRIETORS, BY 
 
 THOMAS ARNOLD, PATERNOSTER ROW. 
 
 1842.
 
 THE 
 
 ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 TERCEIRA. 
 
 In reviewing certain passages of our past lives, we 
 may all be more or less sensible of the operation of 
 many extraneous agencies which, independently of our 
 predispositions and temper, have exercised a secret 
 influence over the pleasure or the dissatisfaction with 
 which we have regarded any particular scene or inci- 
 dent. Perchance, we know not why, our anticipated 
 raptures have declined into cold admiration or indif- 
 ference, when viewing the most exquisite scenery; our 
 deUght in a favourite study, or a favourite pastime, 
 has flagged, without any obvious cause, when we had 
 fancied ourselves best prepared for its enjoyment; or, 
 under similar auspices even the chosen beauties of the 
 poet may have failed to shake the leaden slumber from 
 our sympathies. Of these external influences, the state 
 of the heavens* and the atmosphere appear to exert the 
 most universal power, and we are sometimes astonished
 
 2 THE ORIEXTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 to discover with how many fictitious attractions the 
 imagination has hedecked those scenes which ha\'e 
 been witnessed in bright and smiling weather : espe- 
 cially we perceive this in looking back upon the 
 scenes of our past lives, when the accidental shadows 
 which may have chequered the scene are almost 
 lost in distance,'' or are made to reflect the bright 
 colours and the sun-lit effect of the rest of the pic- 
 ture. Whether or not sun and sky have the chief 
 merit in conjuring up the brilliant images which 
 crowd upon my memory at the bare mention of the 
 Azores, I will not enquire ; nor is it of any impor- 
 tance to the reader to be informed ; since the same 
 delight-inspiring agents are at hand, nearly all the year 
 round, to welcome each successive visitor, and to give 
 him the benefit of their attendance. Should it be 
 otherwise, there is little fear that the eastern voyager 
 will be able to denounce me as a flatterer ; since, in 
 dull or stoiiny weather, the cautious skipper will 
 prefer the open ocean to the naiTOw channels between 
 the islands. 
 
 I have never met with any person who could deny 
 that these islands are beautiful ; and yet their iron -girt 
 and cinerous cliffs, o'ertopped with rugged mountains, 
 with only here and there a peep at the fertility within, 
 hold out little promise of hos])itality to the stranger ; 
 more especially when it is discovered that every acces- 
 sible point is defended by strong batteries perched uj)
 
 TERCEIRA. 3 
 
 among the rocks. 'Tis true that now and then a pretty 
 town opens to view in the snug sheker of a rounded 
 bay, and ghmpses are had of vineyards, orchards, 
 .and gardens, which promise good fare and pleasant 
 entertainment; nor, if he tarry, will the stranger find 
 himself deceived ; for, within the impregnable coast, 
 the inhabitants are as hospitable as the country is 
 beautiful and fertile. Terceira, being the principal 
 island, has been selected as the subject of this sketch, 
 and the description attempted will give a con-ect idea 
 of the others, there being a great similarity in their 
 general aspect and productions ; except only Pico, 
 which is a monstrous volcanic cone upwards of seven 
 thousand feet high. 
 
 I do not think I can better illusti-ate the scenery, 
 or bring more powerful evidence in support of my 
 foregoing remarks, than by presenting the reader 
 with a few selections from the journal of a friend 
 who passed many months among the islands ; and 
 the very enthusiastic and poetical manner in which 
 he apostrophizes them will evince the justice of my 
 eulogiums. He says ; " Nature hath never, in capri- 
 cious mood, called into Hfe a brighter cluster than 
 these foundlings of sun and ocean. Their magic 
 number gives them to the muses, and each would 
 furnish classic realm for a daughter of Mnemosyne. 
 In triplet groups they spring from the deep sea, and, 
 laughing out upon the wide expanse, speak to the 
 B 2
 
 4 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 heart in tones so fresh and joyous, so full of life and 
 beauty, that he must be insensible indeed who could 
 pass on his way without a wish to linger. 
 
 '' Beautiful islands ! Many years have passed since, 
 faint in the distance, I first descried the dim blue haze 
 which marked your position ; since, more near, I 
 gazed on the bright green hills and valleys, the glit- 
 tering houses, the spire and dome of church and 
 palace, which greet the wanderer's approach to Ter- 
 ceira ; but even now, in dreamy thought, your bright 
 hues and varied outlines rise in soft repose before me. 
 
 " Circling round and round with untiring music, how 
 wildly yet gently play the waves, clashing their rain- 
 bow spray on every side ! while, ever and anon, with 
 
 * feigned abuse 
 
 Such as perplext lovers use,' 
 
 or rather with a fond mother's restless love, chafed that 
 she cannot lavish more treasure from the unmeasured 
 depths of her affection, the Atlantic heaves her 
 troubled bosom, while her murmurs are echoed back 
 upon the breeze from the deep caverns of the beet- 
 ling coast. 
 
 " As the vessel slowly beat up, the city and surround- 
 ing country became gradually more distinct ; the 
 pointed architecture, the pure white walls, and pyra- 
 midal red-tiled roofs stood out in sharp relief; and 
 presently the nearest houses showed the painted 
 lattices — carefully closed, to seclude all withhi from the
 
 TERCEIRA. 
 
 sun's rays or the prying eye. At last the entire little 
 city lay before us, stretching down to the crescent bay, 
 bristled with tuiTetted walls and forts. A high em- 
 battled castle stands far above the town, and the spires 
 of the cathedral, and gilded roof of the palace, sparkle 
 in the sun beneath. On every side the cross-sur- 
 mounted convents, the walls, and streets, tower above 
 each other in picturesque confusion, while the lofty 
 range of hills, which form the background, sweep 
 boldly upwards, and gird the city round with a huge 
 bulwark, such as Nature alone can rear or destroy. " 
 
 There is little or no protection for shipping in the 
 harbour of Angra against the prevailing south-w^est 
 winds, as we found to our annoyance ; for we had 
 scarcely completed the necessary preparation for 
 bringing the vessel to an anchor, before a stiff breeze 
 springing up in that quarter convinced our Captain 
 of the expediency of putting out to sea again. The 
 word " helm's-a-lee" was given a second too late ; the 
 ship missed stays, and we found ourselves drifting 
 with a strong cuiTent upon the rocky and precipi- 
 tous foot of Monte BresiL A kedge anchor was let 
 go just in time to save us, and having manned the 
 boats, we lost no time in effecting a landing. Oar 
 eager party burned up the long flight of steps lead- 
 ing from the quay, joyous indeed again to find a 
 steady footing. We wandered through the town, 
 every sense delighted with the novelty and foreign 
 aspect of the place. The closed jalousies, the care- 
 B 3
 
 6 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 fully screened balconies, with their little trap-door-like 
 windows, where perchance a glimpse might be caught 
 of some dark-eyed daughter of Eve, inheriting, if 
 not all her parent's beauty, at least her curiosity — 
 the gay costume of the men, their swarthy olive- 
 tinted countenances, bearing little trace of slavery in 
 their expression, and still less in their manly forms 
 or erect and graceful figures — the sombre apparel 
 and shadowy outline of the fairer sex, closely enve- 
 loped in the black hood and mantilla of the Tras as 
 Monies, passing and repassing with slow and mea- 
 sured step, as if at once to challenge and defy the 
 stranger's curiosity — the jargon of song and salutation 
 in a foreign tongue — the gi'oups of loaded cattle, and 
 the yoked oxen rudely attached to cars of a most 
 primitive construction — and then the peculiar " Iss— 
 St ! " subdued, yet quite intelligible, passed from balcony 
 to balcony, or to the loungers in the street below — 
 these, and many other sights and sounds, united to 
 complete a scene so charming in its novelty, that no 
 faculty was left unoccupied. 
 
 The scorching sun, now blazing upon our heads 
 with mid-day force, reflected too by the dazzling white 
 of every house, placed us in a cross fire, too hot for 
 long endurance, and compelled us to seek shelter 
 beneath the roof of a British merchant, who hospi- 
 tably vouchsafes to every Englishman a privilege 
 which he appears to enjoy in every land except old 
 England; that of paying extravagantly and feasting
 
 TERCEIRA, 7 
 
 poorly. After exploring many unsightly passages, 
 we penetrated a steep and dirty alley, and discovered 
 the delectable refuge which we sought — not an hotel 
 — the name would have been resented as an indignity 
 by the inflated host, the proud vendor of all things 
 vendible, from a yard of cloth to a cargo of oranges. 
 In the limited commerce of Terceira, wholesale and 
 retail dealings ai'e usually in the same hands, and thus 
 the meanest shopkeeper, among other immunities, 
 enjoys rank among the trading aristocracy of the land, 
 and, of his own proper right, rejoices in the title of 
 merchant. 
 
 Having seen most of the lions in Angi-a, we were 
 tempted by the beautiful weather and want of occupa- 
 tion to plan an excursion through the interior of the 
 island. The Villa de Praya, upon the opposite coast, 
 was selected as our destination, and one of the resi- 
 dents, upon whom we had prevailed to act as our 
 guide, promised us an excellent day's sport. There 
 are two roads from Angra to Praya; the lower one 
 winding round the bold projecting headlands of the 
 coast, the other leading through a varied succession of 
 cultivated and waste lands, direct across the mountains. 
 The latter was preferred, and having braced our nerves 
 against sun and heat, we turned short up the precipi- 
 tous mountain side which girds in the little capital, 
 and speedily reached the summit, amply rewarded for 
 our pains by the glorious scene around. Turning 
 inland, we lost sight of the ocean, and descended upon
 
 8 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 the uncultivated districts. The distance before us was 
 about five leagues, over a road, if such it may be called, 
 fonned of lumps of lava, scoriae, and cinders, in some 
 places wedged together in huge masses, and in others 
 covered with roughly broken fragments, which the 
 islanders had strewed (probably to fill up some 
 impracticable chasm) with an utter contempt of the 
 principles of Macadamization. 
 
 After crossing two or three chains of mountains, 
 now dipping low into the narrow valleys, and again 
 breasting the abrupt side of the opposite ridge, we 
 reached an open elevated platfonn, whence we looked 
 down upon a wide-spread basin, extending from 
 hill to valley, from valley to plain, but girt in on 
 all sides by dark volcanic heights, whose gloomy 
 aspect appeared to lour in frowns upon the rash 
 intruder. The steeps are dotted here and there with 
 a few dark and stunted firs, starting at solitary 
 intervals from the blackened heather, which is every 
 where intersected with broad beds of barren waste, 
 overspread with volcanic matter, piled in cumbrous 
 heaps upon the scorched soil, and exhibiting the most 
 monstrous and fantastic forms, as if but recently cast 
 forth by some terrible convulsion. There they stood 
 in the same wild and gloomy confusion in which 
 they were uplifted from the hidden gulfs below, 
 or showered down upon the plain in the fierce storm 
 and tumult of eruption. Down the rough and 
 blighted sides of the mountains the course of the
 
 TERCEIRA. ^ 
 
 consuming lava was distinctly seen, as though the 
 fiery flood had scarcely ceased to welter through its 
 tortuous channels. Over the rocks and lava in the 
 immediate foreground a dank gi-ey moss had spread 
 itself; a noisome vegetation which detracted not from 
 the desolation of the scene — proclaiming, like the 
 whitened locks of age, " here no more shall youth or 
 freshness he ! " 
 
 The chill melancholy of the scene entered the 
 heart ; no sound or movement broke upon the painful 
 stilhiess, which spoke of death rather than repose. 
 As we toiled onwards scarcely a word was spoken; 
 indeed, from the moment we had first looked down 
 upon this unearthly wilderness, all attempts at con- 
 versation had given way to a dropping fire of half- 
 pronounced ejaculations. Before, behind, to the east, 
 and to the west, we were surrounded by these myste- 
 rious and awe-inspiring objects, which dispersed every 
 rav of joy and meniment from om- party. But the 
 spell which bound us was broken in a second of 
 time; a sudden exclamation of joyous relief burst 
 from each as we successively sm-mounted the crest 
 of the hill, and beheld expanded before us the bright 
 blue waters of the Atlantic, cheerful with light and 
 life, whose sound and movement were alone sufficient 
 to dispel om' gloomy mood. 
 
 Words are not for strong emotions, and are seldom 
 voluntarily resorted to; the mind appears instinc- 
 tively to be sensible of their weakness ; they are for
 
 10 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 the business of life, and not for the more secret 
 mysteries of our nature, which, while they concen- 
 trate and absorb, are too deep and too subtle to be 
 brought at will to the surface, and made tangible. 
 Perhaps the much quoted saying of the late Prince 
 of Diplomatists may be true in a more hidden sense 
 than is displayed in its ordinary acceptation, that 
 the chief, that is the common, use of words is to 
 disguise the thoughts — for how seldom do we find 
 words capable of truly rendering the more refined 
 and abstract reasonings of the mind, the profound 
 emotions of the heart. If then words fail to convey 
 a true reflection of these, they serve but to disguise 
 that which they are intended to portray. 
 
 The summit of the farthest range over which our 
 route lay was at last attained, and down its undulating 
 sides, beautiful and gay with verdant slopes and 
 richly flowered hollows, we beheld once more the 
 handiwork and the dwellings of man ; far, far below 
 us, in a smiling cultivated valley, lay the pretty little 
 town of Praya, its white houses, out-topped by the 
 sombre monastic piles, stretching to the very edge 
 of the fortified bay. In this snug village, shut out 
 by sea and mountain from all the world, what was 
 our surprise to receive the warm welcome of a resident 
 English physician ! The cheerful benevolence of his 
 countenance and his frank demeanour alike belied 
 our first suspicion that some wayward misanthropy 
 had led him to this secluded retreat; but our good
 
 TERCEIRA. 11 
 
 host informed us that he had sought in Praya a peace- 
 ful enjoyment of health and of life's blessings, without 
 which, and contentment of heart, there is indeed little 
 joy in our existence ; and these elements of happiness 
 he assured us he had discovered even in the absence 
 of all luxury, I had almost said of ci\dlization. 
 
 The day after our anival at Praya had been fixed 
 upon for our sporting excursion ; we therefore rose 
 with the dawn, and having partaken of a substantial 
 breakfast, we mustered our forces and set forth, declin- 
 ing the services of a guide, upon the strength of the 
 prowess we had exhibited the previous day. It was 
 agreed that we should direct our steps towards a lake 
 some few miles distant, where we had been assured 
 that woodcocks and snipe were in great abundance, 
 and guerillas and bandits were supposed to be some- 
 what less numerous, they having been hunted out 
 by the local authorities but a short time before. 
 
 Our path first led along giddy precipices, which 
 descend almost peqjendicularly, a thousand feet 
 and more, to the beach below. The vast flights 
 of sea birds, now soaring above, now circling midway 
 down the cliffs, determined two of oiu' party to keep 
 the coast ; while myself and two others, superior to 
 so unsportsmanlike a temptation, held our original 
 piu^)ose and shaped our course for the interior. We 
 had not proceeded far before we entered a pleasant 
 and fruitful valley iiTegularly ascending to a high and 
 rocky gorge, down which there dashed a little moun-
 
 12 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 tain stream, bounding from point to point, now hid, 
 now bursting out anew from the clustering shrubs, and 
 gliding through the levels, until it disappeared at the 
 other extremity of the vale. The opposite hill, and 
 another valley, partially covered with dense coppice- 
 v>rood, led us to the foot of a mountain, which rose 
 towering high above, thickly overlaid with brown heath 
 and brush-wood ; up this too we held our way, and at 
 last, panting and breathless, gained the summit, from 
 whence a wide view was obtained of the suiTounding 
 country. Another valley lay before us, not like the 
 others, wami and cultivated, its flat and barren plain 
 being broken only by a few solitary and dismal-looking 
 ponds, while further on again were more and more 
 mountains. Countless black-birds and a few miserable 
 cattle were the only things of life to be discovered. 
 
 An enoniious ravine offered us an exit from this 
 scene, without encountering the steeps of the opposite 
 range ; but it was a question whether this narrow 
 chasm saved us any toil, for on and on we wandered, 
 from solitude to solitude, without at any time observing 
 the least trace of man or his haunts. The wild 
 beauties of the scenery had delighted us, but we had 
 been sadly deluded of our looked-for sport, and at last, 
 faint and weary, we called a halt, and refreshed our- 
 selves with the contents of an ample provision basket, 
 furnished by our kind host. We speedily discussed 
 the more substantial part of our mid-day meal, and, 
 lighting our cigars, reclined upon the soft grass, while
 
 TERCEIRA. 13 
 
 in imagination we were transported back to the year of 
 our Lord 1439, where history places the discovery of 
 the islands — to that day when first Gonzalo Velho 
 Cabral, the Commendador de Almonral and Senhor of 
 Cardiga, grasping the Portuguese banner, sprung to 
 the shore with the ardent hopes of a discoverer. 
 With what wonder and curiosity must he have wan- 
 dered with his followers from hill to dale, from dale to 
 open plain^ half doubting, yet still expecting to meet 
 a native race, whom to claim as the subjects of his new 
 found empire ; and how must he at last have returned 
 to his boats, his delight a little dashed by disappoint- 
 ment, but still enchanted with the beauty of his 
 uncontested prize, its balmy air and fertile soil 
 redolent with perfume, and the sweet sounds of its 
 only inhabitants, the feathered songsters. For here no 
 beast of prey, no poisoned vermin live ; the venom of 
 the snake and the virus of the rabid dog alike become 
 inert, under the infhience of this benignant clime. 
 
 After we had a little refreshed our wearied frames 
 we bethought ourselves of the necessity of again press- 
 ing forward, and for hours we continued to pursue 
 the same pathless and laborious course, determined 
 to find any other route back to Praya rather than 
 attempt to retrace our way through the difficulties 
 we had encountered. We had become involved in 
 dense and intricate woods, with only here and there a 
 labyrinthine track leading us on through an undu- 
 lating countrVj apparently interminable, and utterly
 
 14 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 impervious to the eye beyond a few yards ; the broken 
 gi'ound and intercepting roots and branches, the un- 
 certainty of our proper direction, and our dissentient 
 conjectures, only tending to render the toil at ever}^ 
 step less and less tolerable. As for the lake of which 
 we came in search, with its abundant woodcocks and 
 snipe, all thought of it had long since given place 
 to an importunate anxiety to find the coast before 
 night closed upon us, or before our bniised limbs 
 should be altogether overjDOwered by fatigue. 
 
 When at last by a persevering advance we broke 
 from the confines of the forest, we found little indeed 
 to cheer our flagging courage. A dreary plain, cut up 
 with endless ravines, opened to a farther prospect of 
 mountains, dark and forbidding as any thing we had 
 yet beheld; shut in on every side, their shaii) and 
 ragged outlines scowled a defiance upon our now 
 spiritless and drooping trio. Truly our condition was 
 deplorable, and our outward appearance was by no 
 means calculated to gloss over the reality of our suf- 
 ferings, or to delude us in our estimation of them. 
 Scarce a remnant of shoe-leather was there among us ; 
 and as to our upper gannents, the entire stock w^ould 
 not have furnished materials for a complete suit ; that 
 which remained was hanging to our persons in tattered 
 strips and shreds, deserving the names by which they 
 are commonly designated about as much as did the 
 patches which we had left adhering to the thickets. 
 Our prospects were not more flattering than our actual
 
 TERCEIRA. 15 
 
 State of person : a dinnerless and houseless night 
 was all we could expect, at best — a bivouac without 
 either honour or glory — with the probability of rising 
 next morning still more stiif and hungry, to say 
 nothing of the chance of not rising at all ; for we 
 were not unmindful of what had been said in Praya 
 about the guen'illas and bandits, who being hunted out 
 from the neighbourhood of our looked for lake, we 
 thought could hai'dly have selected a more impracti- 
 cable stronghold than the wood from which we had 
 just emerged. 
 
 Already the lengthened and purple shadows be- 
 tokened the close of day. A short halt just to recover 
 breath was all that we could pennit; for we were 
 determined to press on, till night should fairly bar our 
 farther progress. Across a forked indenture of the 
 mountains, a level stream of light, stretching like an 
 artificial horizon in the darkening sky, attracted our 
 notice; and fancying that it might prove to be the sea, 
 distant and hopeless as appeared our chance of success, 
 to this we resolved to turn our steps, rather than wander 
 on without any sort of guidance. Again we pushed 
 forward with the last efforts of our strength; again 
 we breasted the knotty steeps. Our high roads were 
 the loose and rugged beds of the mountain torrent ; our 
 cross roads were the arduous and thorny passages 
 which w^e made for ourselves through the tangled 
 brushwood; and our bye-roads lay through the cir- 
 cuitous and zig-zag inequalities of ravines and 
 c2
 
 16 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 gaping clefts, through which we clamhered to escape 
 the walled precipices which continually opposed us. 
 At last we were rewarded for our toil, hy finding 
 our fancied ocean no delusion; a height was gained 
 whence we could fairly view its hroad waters; and, 
 upon the plain before it, to our joy we descried a little 
 village, which, though far distant, and quickly fading 
 from our sight in the closing twilight, was at least a 
 promise of eventual escape from hunger and extreme 
 fatigue. 
 
 With renewed vigour we quickened our steps, and 
 just as night had completely overspread the island we 
 arrived at our promised shelter. We entered the first 
 cottage; but the utmost hospitality which we could 
 extort from the suspicious and bandit-looking inmates 
 amounted only to a scanty draft of execrably sour 
 wine and a modicum of garlic-flavoured bread; ren- 
 dered still less palatable by the unwelcome intelligence 
 that we were four leagues from Praj^a. Four leagues 
 indeed ! what a blank each face presented ! We knew 
 not whether our present ]DOsition was any amelioration 
 of the melancholy bivouac which we had anticipated on 
 the borders of the forest. We had speedily become the 
 centi'e of a group of the most wild and lawless-looking 
 gentry it has ever been my fortune to behold, the 
 objects of a most unpleasant and unceremonious scru- 
 tiny, of certain monosyllables and significant gestures, 
 having especial reference to our guns, which con- 
 vinced us that, however weary, it would be prudent to
 
 TERCEIRA. 17 
 
 lose no time in parting with such comjDany. There 
 was a wistful look in their hang-dog faces, an occa- 
 sional murmur about Ingleses, dinheiro, &c., which 
 rendered our council of war wonderfully unanimous 
 in the detennination of beating a retreat. Eager 
 directions were given us as to the exact route we were 
 to pursue; it might be in charity — but we did not 
 think so. Men when they are very hungry and very 
 tired are never very philanthropic. 
 
 The night was unusually dark, and even had we 
 been inclined to keep the road pointed out to us, we 
 probably should not have been able to do so; but we 
 thought any other preferable, and staggered on, almost 
 heedless of our course. After many hours of painful 
 wandering we saw lights in the distance, and found 
 that we had providentially taken a pretty direct route 
 to Praya ; we entered the town a little after midnight. 
 
 When we presented ourselves before our host we 
 were dismayed to find only one of cm- comrades 
 whom we had left upon the coast; he enquired 
 eagerly if we had brought news of his lost compa- 
 nion; who, followed by his dog, had descended the 
 cliff, promising to skirt the shore, but whom we had 
 not again seen. Until nightfall our friend had 
 fatigued himself with fruitless search; his call was 
 imretumed, save by a melancholy echo from the 
 rocks below. Our arrival reheved both our friends 
 from much anxiety on our own account, but it de- 
 stroyed their hope that he who was missing had fallen 
 c 3
 
 18 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL- 
 
 in with and accompanied us. HaiTassed and toil- 
 worn as we were, it was impossible to rest while 
 uncertain of his fate; we in a measure restored our 
 strength by a hasty but plentiful refreshment; and 
 then, despite our lacerated feet and stiffened limbs, we 
 again sallied forth. 
 
 We despatched two fishermen round by the beach, 
 and, provided with a guide, we followed the path which 
 we had taken in the morning : we soon came to the 
 place where we had separated, and thence pursued as 
 nearly as possible that which our absent friend had 
 chosen ; sounding every now and then a blast from a 
 horn in order to signify our advance, and if possible 
 to direct the wanderer to his friends : but we listened 
 in vain for his reply to our challenge. The only 
 answer was the echo, mocking our alarm, as the faint 
 and solemn tones reverberated from cliff to cliff, and 
 the ill-omened screech of the disturbed sea-birds, with 
 the feeble moaning of the wind and sea. Again we 
 blew a louder and still louder blast — a strange forebod- 
 ing thrilled through me — all was dark and drear, but 
 I fancied that the faint and piteous howl of a dog was 
 borne upon the breeze which repeated the notes of 
 the horn. Yes, it was Ranger's voice, now more 
 loudly and clearly heard. Onward we pressed in the 
 direction from which the sound had come ; but as we 
 advanced the cry of the dog was lost, for the gathering 
 winds rising swept down from the hills in hollow gusts 
 and then more loudly whistled in our ears, while the
 
 TEECEIRA. 19 
 
 roar of the sea added to the confusion of sounds. 
 Again and again we blew the horn, but without avail. 
 We had not advanced many steps, when the fore- 
 most of the party stopped suddenly, uttering a low 
 and hurried exclamation. The night was star-lit, and 
 looking before us, we beheld the loosened soil, some 
 feet in extent evidently having been recently up- 
 turned. The dew stood npon my brow ; all seemed 
 to feel a hoiTor at the sight, a dread that could not 
 shape itself in words. A long and swelling howl 
 from the dog was now repeated in a momentary lull 
 of the wind. 
 
 " Mark the spot ! but let us on to the cliff now ! " 
 The first streak of dawn was glimmering in the 
 east as we reached the summit of the rocks ; and as 
 day broke, we were hailed by the fishemien whom we 
 had sent romid upon the shore. They were half way 
 down the cliff, and with emphatic gesture thev pointed 
 down below them; and one of them, resting his head 
 upon his hand, seemed to intimate that our friend 
 lay there asleep or helpless. Our guide was a power- 
 ful and active man, and he at once prepared to 
 descend; myself and another of the party followed, 
 after many warnings from the guide, for the steep was 
 one which even the practised islanders considered it a 
 feat to descend ; at the best it was extremely hazard- 
 ous, requiiing a cool head and a sure foot, as well as 
 activity and experience. Having disencumbered our- 
 selves of our boots and the most inconvenient part of
 
 20 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 our apparel, we cautiously commenced our descent, 
 a Portugue leading the way. It was evident that a 
 single false step must end in a headlong fall of at 
 least a thousand feet. 
 
 The excitement of so long a period, with little 
 sustenance and without rest, had rendered me insen- 
 sible to fatigue, but had produced the false strength 
 and mad determination of fever. Upheld by this 
 supernatural strength, I followed the steps of the 
 crouching guide and my more cautious companion, 
 until about half way down, the former found it 
 impossible to proceed. We reconnoitred the place, 
 and found our farther progress baiTed by a narrow 
 projecting shelf of rock, which overhung a vast and 
 giddy chasm, black and interminable as seen in the 
 dubious morning light. A few feet below, however, 
 we discovered a second ledge of the same description, 
 but affording a very precarious footing. We lowered 
 ourselves over the abyss, clinging with outstretched 
 arms to the edge, and letting the body slide gently 
 down the scai-ped face of the precipice. From thence, 
 grappling the scanty knots and rents of the rock with 
 apprehensive energy, we descended to the beach, pass- 
 ing from point to point, and sliding down the naiTow 
 water tracks. 
 
 Turning a sudden angle as the beach was gained, 
 we were appalled by beholding the mangled and blood- 
 stained coi-jDse of our ill-fated comrade; he lay 
 stretched upon his back, cold and stiffened, his limbs
 
 TERCEIRA. 21 
 
 crushed, his features obliterated, the rocks around 
 clotted with gore. By the side of our poor friend 
 watched the fond and faithful Ranger, bemoaning ^vith 
 piteous lamentation his master's disastrous fate, refu- 
 sing all attention, and disregarding our efforts to 
 withdi-aw him from the body. 
 
 What had befallen our unfortunate companion 
 before his headlong course down that fearful precipice 
 we never learned, and for the grave-like appearance of 
 the gi'ound which had attracted our notice on our 
 route no better information ever reached me.
 
 22 
 
 TENERIFFE. 
 
 It has been freely remarked of travellers in general, 
 and perhaps not altogether without reason, " that they 
 have a common usage of extolling each successive 
 object of their description as the most wonderful, or 
 the most beautiful, or the most curious of all that is 
 wonderful, or beautiful, or curious, within their know- 
 ledge." * The author, in reviewing his own admira- 
 tion and excitement when for the first time he came 
 in sight of the Peak Teneriffe, is willing to risk a 
 similar imputation, rather than qualify his superla- 
 tives while attempting to depict the scene. In the 
 whole northern hemisphere there is perhaps scarcely 
 any natural object of curiosity which can be disco- 
 vered to the traveller with more striking effect than 
 this singular island, upon whichever side and under 
 whatever circumstances it may be appioached. There 
 is something so gi'and, so almost supernatural, in the 
 appearance of the wild volcanic mountain, towering 
 
 * Hugh Boyd's Tracts.
 
 :^^
 
 #
 
 TEXERIFFE. 23 
 
 aloft in stupendous majesty above the regions of the 
 clouds, from the deep deep waters of the ocean, that 
 the beholder cannot but regard it with sensations akin 
 to awe ; nor will his admiration lose one tittle of its 
 solemnity upon a closer view of the ragged cliffs, 
 which are composed of calcined rocks and lava, torn 
 and distorted into countless irregular and mysterious 
 forms. 
 
 The mountain is computed by M. de Humboldt 
 to be 12,198 English feet in height, and to be gene- 
 rally visible at sea from a distance of 130 miles ; but 
 we have the authority of most voyagers for stating, 
 that at certain seasons the peak is to be seen at the 
 almost incredible distance of 200 miles. This, how- 
 ever, is during those months when the atmosphere is 
 pretty fully charged with moisture, so that the refrac- 
 tion renders it visible at a very much greater distance 
 than would appear possible by calculation from its 
 height. In the dry sunny months of July and Au- 
 gust, when seldom even a silver wTeath of cloud is 
 seen to stray across the clear canopy of heaven, or more 
 than a gentle breath of air to ripple the bright surface 
 of the ocean, the peak, when first descried, assumes a 
 very singular appearance. 
 
 Perchance the far-sighted mariner has discovered it, 
 while to the unpractised landsman there is still nil nisi 
 pontus et aer, until the vessel stealing softly onward 
 under the almost imperceptible influence of the breeze, 
 has brought it within scope of his comparatively ob-
 
 24 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 tuse sight, and he becomes slowly conscious of some 
 shadowy object, now lost, now seen again upon the 
 clear horizon. Soon this vague shape may be traced 
 by a clear outline upon the sky as it gradually assumes 
 a deeper hue, and then appears like a gap or rent in 
 the natural heaven, admitting the eye to penetrate to a 
 second sky. Now as the vessel, hour by hour, holds 
 on her course and diminishes the distance from the 
 mountain, this illusion is dispersed, and the colour is 
 changed from blue to a deep aerial grey, while a sharp 
 streak of glittering light, glancing from its snowy top, 
 plainly defines the form of the peak. 
 
 But the circumstances under which Teneriffe is seen 
 in the full force of its grandeur are the reverse of the 
 foregoing description. When the winter months, com- 
 mencing with November, bring in the dreary season of 
 storm and hurricane, the howling south-east wind 
 drives down successive volumes of black clouds across 
 the desert of Sahara, from the tempestuous summits of 
 the Jebel Kumra mountains; and these accumulate 
 around the peak, like evil spirits under its command, 
 and, whirling round and round, open and close, and 
 rise and fall upon its rugged sides, now exposing, now 
 completely enveloping them, constantly clashing and 
 revolving in strange uncouth contortions which baffle 
 all attempts at description, and can only be compared 
 to the mad orgies of a thousand genii. The hissing 
 lightnings play from cloud to cloud, and the hoarse
 
 TEXERIFFE. 25 
 
 thunder bursts in rattling peals, mingling with the 
 rush of the hunicane and the loud roar of the tumul- 
 tuous sea. All this, it may he fancied, forms a fearful 
 scene, especially to the 2)oor mariners who have har- 
 boured in the naiTow roadstead of Santa Cruz : the first 
 prognostic of the coming storm is the signal to slip 
 their cables and put instantly to sea. 
 
 The island was anciently called the Peak of Teyde, 
 and the inhabitants, who are Spaniards, still retain the 
 name in preference to the more euphoneous one by 
 which it is now known to the whole world. Though 
 so picturesque an object, upon approaching it, the 
 island possesses very little beauty of scenery within 
 its shores, its cultivated spots being intersected with 
 sterile and unsightly patches of volcanic matter, 
 without anything deserving the name of wood, except 
 here and there a cluster of stunted pines, eked out by 
 a few scattered and ill-shap€n palm trees, which, far 
 from adorning, rather add to the desolation of the 
 scene. This is more especially the case upon the 
 coast, for, strange to relate, the lava and scorite 
 become less abundant on approaching the peak itself, 
 the monstrous chimney of the eternal furnaces raging 
 below, and the soil is more productive ; indeed it is in 
 many places highly cultivated, and the gardens and 
 vineyards of the Spaniards exhibit something ap- 
 proximating to civilization. The same, however, 
 cannot be said of the inhabitants, or of their buildings.
 
 26 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 Even the principal towns are extremely wretched both 
 in appearance and as dwellings, while it may be 
 safely said that the sites upon which they have been 
 erected are in every respect the worst that could have 
 been chosen. 
 
 St. Christoval de Laguna is called the capital of the 
 island, but why this distinction is confen-ed, it is 
 difficult to say, unless from the circumstance of the 
 governor having a mansion at that place, although he 
 resides at Santa Cruz, which latter is certainly the 
 more important town, both on account of its harbour 
 for shipping, and for its comparative wealth and 
 extent. It has, however, a most desolate and forbid- 
 ding aspect, being a collection of some hundreds of 
 houses most flimsily constructed, and, from their 
 dazzling whiteness, having the appearance of a paper 
 town, spread along the flat and naiTow beach, and 
 overtopped by black fun*owed cliffs, without a single 
 leaf of vegetation or a trace of anything green to 
 relieve the eye from the intolerable glitter of the 
 white-wash. Nor does the place possess one single 
 edifice of importance ; the churches are tawdry and 
 badly built, as also are the goveniment hctuse and 
 public offices; the jetty is in sad disrepair, and quite 
 insufficient for its puii:)ose, but it is terminated by a 
 well-built and handsome mole, which serves the double 
 purpose of a jetty-head, protecting the harbour from 
 the continual south-east swell, and being, moreover.
 
 TEXERTFFE. 27 
 
 surmounted by a powerful and commanding battery 
 for the defence of the toAni. 
 
 Herein is little to invite fuither descri^^tion ; but it 
 would be quite unpardonable to quit the roadstead with- 
 out noticing the very picturesque and almost magic 
 effect which this harbour presents upon entering it after 
 night-fall, if the weather be fan'. The twinkling lights 
 of the town are almost eclipsed by thousands of ruddy 
 fires blazing in all directions over the sea, to the outer 
 verge of the bank which fomis the roadstead, swiftly 
 passing to and fro like sw^arming fire-flies, spangling the 
 waves with the reflection, and thus multiplying their 
 numbers until the eye is completely dazzled by the 
 sight. To the stranger who is unacquainted with the 
 cause of this singular scene the enigma must remain un- 
 told until the vessel is within the bay ; and then, among 
 the foremost of the fires, will be occasionally seen a hu- 
 man figure lit up by the I'ed glare, and then another and 
 another, appearing and vanishing in quick succession ; 
 until at last the mystery is solved by a still nearer 
 approach ; and these phenomena are found to be 
 countless fleets of fishing boats, each of them having 
 on board two men, whose persons appear gigantic and 
 almost demoniac, as they are seen in the broad light of 
 two blazing fires which they carry on board, one in the 
 bow, and another in the stern of the boat. These 
 brilliant lights are for the purpose of alluring the fish 
 from their rocky resting places, and they are then 
 D 2
 
 28 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 taken by the fishermen with rod and Hne. The scene 
 is rendered more completely grotesque by the singular 
 costume and half-clad appearance of the Spaniards, 
 the wild snatches of song that are fitfully borne upon 
 the wind, the uncouth cries of the men, continually 
 hailing one another from boat to boat, accompanied by 
 the harsh screams of the sea birds whirling in all 
 directions overhead, and w^atching a favourable oppor- 
 tunity to plunder the boats. Add to this the flashing of 
 innumerable oars, now here, now there, glancing over 
 miles of space with the instantaneous speed of elec- 
 tricity ; and, to finish the enchantment of the picture, 
 perchance from the impenetrable gloom steals forth, 
 with silent majesty and slow advance, the towering 
 image of a giant ship, her canvass filled and bending 
 to the breeze, while on she glides, like a spirit of air, 
 through the scattered fleet of tiny flshing boats. The 
 whole scene possesses a wild and unearthly eflfect, little 
 short of magic, such as may not commonly be dis- 
 covered in nature, and yet, in moderate weather, it 
 may be nightly witnessed in the roadstead of Santa 
 Cruz. 
 
 The unfortunate inhabitants, although the subjects 
 of a double despotism, have preserved undiminished the 
 pride and indolence which proverbially characterize 
 the Spaniards. The will of the governor is over the 
 head of every citizen for life or death, the courts of 
 law being governed by his nod ; the power of the 
 priesthood is even still more absolute, and the conse-
 
 TEXERIlrTE- 29 
 
 quence is, that the people are sunk to the very lowest 
 state of depravity. The town swarms with houseless 
 mendicants of hoth sexes; the aged dying in the 
 streets from utter filthiness and starvation, while the 
 youth are horribly deformed, or afflicted with the most 
 unsightly diseases. Indeed nothing can exceed the 
 deplorable state of these wretched beings, who are only 
 heeded by those in authority when their emaciated and 
 lifeless bodies are actually obstructing the public 
 streets, and coiTupting the atmosphere. Their only 
 means of subsistence appear to be in theft, and in this 
 they are said to outrival even the nimble-fingered 
 islanders of the South Seas, no manner of precaution 
 being proof against their ingenuity or their despera- 
 tion. It would, however, be difficult to detennine 
 whether are the more numerous, the more cunning, 
 and the more shameless, the thieves themselves, or 
 their plunderers, the monks ; for these latter literally 
 swarm in the sti'eets in the cool of evening, and must 
 be the objects of mingled pity and abhorrence to all 
 foreigners, while they openly practise their imposi- 
 tions, nor blush to prove themselves as abandoned as 
 their dupes. 
 
 Escape we then from these obnoxious dens of 
 human infamy and woe. Upon the opposite coast 
 to Santa Cruz ; that is, on the north-west side of the 
 island, stands the port of Oratava, which, without 
 examining too closely, we call a pretty town. It rests 
 upon a rounded declivity at the foot of a high conical 
 D 3
 
 30 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 mountain, on the precipitous sides of which are here 
 and there a few white houses, stuck up in little niches 
 without any visible means of access, surrounded with 
 small slopes of garden and cultivation. All around the 
 town too are broad fields of corn, plantations, orchards, 
 vineyards, and gardens of fruits and flowers, with 
 abundant streams of water, most refreshing to the 
 scorched eye ; here then let it rest ; for all beyond is 
 naked rock and barren broken gi'ound, of which it is 
 just possible the reader may be almost weary. 
 
 Such is the favoured Oratava, the most highly culti- 
 vated spot on the island, and during many years it had 
 worn the same inviting aspect when compared with 
 the other towns of Teneriffe. But fortune has not 
 always smiled upon it, for in the acme of its greatest 
 prosperity it was suddenly reduced to desolation, and 
 in a single night became a howling wilderness. In 
 1826 it was visited by an earthquake, accompanied by 
 a hurricane of such terrific violence, that not a build- 
 ing was left standing, not a blade of vegetation 
 undestroyed; the little villages around were shaken 
 from their high perches, and washed into the sea by 
 the irresistible toiTents which rushed down the moun- 
 tain sides, caiTying before them, not only fl.ocks and 
 herds, but the ill-fated inhabitants themselves. 
 
 Earthquakes are not unfrequent in Teneriffe, and in 
 the year 1704 it was visited by one which, in co-ope- 
 ration with a terrible eruption of the volcano, destroyed 
 nearly all its towns and villages ; but although the
 
 TENERIFFE. 31 
 
 tires are still active within — as is evident from occasional 
 subterraneous noises and the bursting of hot springs, 
 and at distant intervals, within the memory of 
 the people, the issuing of smoke from the crater — 
 there has been no eruption since that above-men- 
 tioned. The people appear to be insensible to any- 
 thing like apprehension of the recuiTence of such a 
 calamity, nor do they seem to stand much in awe of 
 the frequent earthquakes which shake the very foun- 
 dations of the island. The summit of the great Peak 
 may be gained by a difficult ascent from Oratava ; the 
 distance to the crater from the foot is about twelve 
 miles, the road forming a complete zig-zag throughout. 
 The crater is of an area containing 7,500 square 
 yards, or, at a rough computation, about an acre and a 
 half. Except during the latter end of August and 
 September, the top is capped with snow, from which 
 the sun's rays glance with great brilliancy, adding not 
 a little to its over-towering effect. It would scarcely 
 be credited by those who have never witnessed a 
 similar illusion, that, at Santa Cruz, which is distant 
 from the Peak upwards of thirty miles, it appears so 
 wonderfully near to the eye that one might almost 
 fancy it possible to cast a stone to the summit. The 
 island possesses several other towns and villages, but 
 none which particularly demand notice in these pages.
 
 32 
 
 MONEA. 
 
 I'll put a girdle round about the earth 
 In forty minutes. 
 
 Midsummer Night's Dream. 
 
 In accordance with the design explained in the 
 address with which this volume opens, we are now 
 under the necessity of setting all our canvass, sky- 
 scrapers and studding sails, in order to make as rapid 
 a passage as possible from Peak Teneriffe to a point 
 about six hundred miles up the winding course of 
 the sacred river Ganges. Should the reader be of 
 opinion that St. Helena, the Cape of Good Hope, the 
 Mauritius, Ceylon, and other equally interesting 
 points in our track would have been convenient and 
 desirable ports, he must be entreated to rest satisfied 
 at present with the go-ashore entertainment already 
 provided, and console himself with the promise of 
 touching and casting anchor in one or more of these 
 harbours next voyage. 
 
 A very short sojourn in any foreign country will 
 generally suffice to dissipate that sense of novelty
 
 MOXEA. J33 
 
 which for a time is ever present with the traveller, 
 infusing itself into all his ideas and imparting a 
 fanciful and dream -like want of reality even to his 
 actions. Englishmen who visit the East, having 
 previously confined their travels exclusively to their 
 own quarter of the globe, find this effect protracted 
 much beyond its ordinary duration, by the very strik- 
 ing contrast existing between the characteristics of 
 Asia and Europe, both in the climate, scenery, and 
 people ; and it is again and again revived, after the 
 outward appearance of the country has become fami- 
 liar, by the peculiar properties which seem to distin- 
 guish the common features of the scene from those 
 of his home. I might extend the remark, with truth, 
 I believe, even to the more subtle operations of nature, 
 the produce of the country, and the works of the 
 natives ; for scarcely a day passes without some 
 strange and unexpected quality being discovered in 
 one or other of them. It were needless to particu- 
 larise; a thousand instances will at once suggest 
 themselves to the mind of the reader, or they may 
 be foimd in the pages of every book of travels in the 
 East; but the fact will be fully illustrated by the 
 point upon which I am driving. 
 
 The rivers, the rii)pHng brooks, and headlong 
 mountain toiTents of old England continue for ages 
 to run in their wonted courses, their utmost depreda- 
 tions being an occasional overflowing of their waters, 
 or the temporary shifting of their sands. The records
 
 34 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 of remote ages show us that, centuries since, our 
 forefathers were acquainted with the streams of our 
 land, wearing very much the same aspect, and, at least, 
 flowing within the same banks as in our own days. 
 But it is otherwise with the rivers of India. These 
 vagrant w^aters, from the mighty Ganges to the 
 meanest tributary, are constantly seeking new chan- 
 nels, shifting over the plain from city to city, persever- 
 ingly undermining all bamers whether natural or 
 artificial, and compelling the husbandmen and the 
 villagers to retreat before their iiTesistible invasions. 
 In many parts, the Ganges may be traced to have had 
 its course, but a few years since, distant full twenty 
 miles from its present channel : I have known it 
 make a digression of three or four miles in a single 
 season. This is chiefly attributable to the soft and 
 sandy nature of the soil, the peculiarly abrupt and 
 tortuous windings of the stream, and the very sudden 
 accumulation of the waters at the commencement of 
 the monsoon, suddenly converting the smooth and 
 silent river into a turbulent flood which rolls down 
 from the highlands with terrific force, saps or over- 
 leaps all opposition, and fills its former bed, while it 
 devastates the adjacent country and carves out for 
 itself a new channel, or usurps that of some other 
 stream. 
 
 It is not many years since the river Sone — so called 
 from the word sona, gold — used to pour its broad
 
 MONEA. 35 
 
 waters into the river Ganges under the walls of a 
 small town named Maena ; the junction now takes 
 place about four miles lower clown at Monea, which, 
 fonnerly an inland town, now stands upon a projecting 
 tongue of land washed by both rivers. Neither of 
 these places could be recognised by its former inhabi- 
 tants, so complete is the transformation. The channel 
 of the Sone is very deep and the waters are, during 
 the gi-eater part of the year, too rapid to be safely 
 navigated by small boats; indeed for many weeks 
 after the first fall of the summer rains it is imprac- 
 ticable, except to boats of a peculiar construction. 
 It has its source in the wild and barbarous province 
 of Gundwana, near a place of great sanctity called 
 Omirkantac, which stands upon a curious table-land 
 considerably elevated above the sun-ounding country. 
 This place is the constant resort of innumerable diseased 
 and defonned Hindoos, who ascribe to its waters the 
 power of effecting all sorts of cures. The Brahmins 
 have attributed to it a still more mysterious property, 
 when the water is administered by their own hands. 
 They affirm that in certain cases of abject poverty — 
 that is, when the last cowries of the dupe have been 
 distributed among them — it will endow those who 
 drink it with the extraordinary facult}^ of discovering 
 by intuitive knowledge all the secret places of con- 
 cealed treasure, within a certain distance round about 
 them. This is not a naked assertion on the part of the
 
 36 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 priest ; they have a thousand very wonderful and in- 
 disputable tales to relate in verification of it. Many 
 are doubtless founded upon facts, and among others, 
 
 THE STORY OF RUNG BHOWANI,* 
 
 a Raja of Kamroop, was gravely told to me by a 
 Hindoo as an authentic instance of the virtue of the 
 sacred water, for both the purposes above described. 
 
 In the ancient Hindoo City of Jaurhat, through the 
 centre of which runs the river Dekhor, there formerly 
 lived a wealthy and influential Raja, by name Rung 
 Bhowani, who enjoyed a large jaghir in the district of 
 Kamroop, derived from the gods ; of whom, also, the 
 family were descended. In his youth. Rung Bhowani 
 had been blessed with a large family of very beautiful 
 children; but as he advanced in years, when the 
 autumn of life was fast withering his strength, he 
 found himself bereft of his sons and daughters, one 
 after the other, the victims of an insidious and un- 
 known disease, which baffled the skill of all the phy- 
 sicians, all the holy men, and the practitioners of 
 astrology and magic. While in the very bloom of 
 youth, they suddenly declined, and, without pain or 
 any obvious cause, languished in mind and body;-unti], 
 in a very few months, the cold grave closed over their 
 wasted forms. Throughout the province of Kamroop 
 
 * Bhowani is the name of the Indian Venus ; but in India it is by 
 no means unusual for a man to be called by the name of a female 
 deity, or for a woman to be named after the gods.
 
 MOXEA. ,^/ 
 
 the black art is prevalent in a thousand different forms; 
 and, seeing his children drop into the grave from 
 day to day, his prayers to the gods unheeded, his 
 boundless largesses to the Brahmins unrequited, the 
 afflicted Raja had recourse to those dealers in the 
 obscene and detestable rites of Tantra, who boldly 
 declared their knowledge of the evil, and their ability 
 to resist it. The heart-broken prince had long re- 
 sisted, with religious dread, the secret promptings of 
 his soul to apply to the demoniac professors of the 
 abhorred system, but each of his beloved children had 
 been laid upon the funeral pile, until one only, the 
 youngest and the most beautiful of the daughters, 
 remained to him. 
 
 Hope yet lingered in his breast, so long as health 
 continued to flow in the veins of the lovely child ; 
 hope strengthened into confidence, as year succeeded 
 year, adding new charms and vigom- to Chahni, the 
 rescued treasure of his heart ; when, in the opening 
 of her fourteenth year, while the fond father was in 
 treaty with a neighbouring prince for the alliance of 
 their families, the ruddy glow of health faded from 
 the cheek of the intended bride, the fire burnt low 
 within her once resplendent eyes, the vermillion of her 
 lips declined to sickly pallor, and her full rounded 
 form dwindled into a mere shadow of its wonted grace 
 and beauty. The distracted father with a last and 
 frantic hope fled to the accursed disciples of Tanti'a, 
 in defiance of the gods of his faith, regardless of the 
 
 E
 
 38 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 divine origin of his family. He cast himself before 
 these impure altars, in the anguish of his heart, of- 
 fering his broad lands, his entire wealth, and his aged 
 body for sacrifice, if they would snatch his darling 
 child from destruction. 
 
 The fiends received the Raja with yells and screams 
 of triumph and delight, promised him all he sought, 
 provided, only, he would accede to one condition. 
 Unhesitatingly did the eager parent promise all 
 Vfithoat reserve ; but no sooner had the officiating 
 priest declared his meaning, than the hapless Rung 
 Bhowani, covering his face with his hands, turned from 
 the assembled magicians, in silent horror of their hate- 
 ful laws, and fled for refuge to a neighbouring temple 
 of Krishna. Here he met a very venerable and 
 devout Brahmin, who, surprised to find a person of 
 high rank in such a condition, and warmly compas- 
 sionating his affliction, by kindness and gentle persua- 
 sion, with promises of assistance, wrung from him a 
 full account of his life's misfortunes, and his present 
 woe. The Brahmin, after some moments spent in deep 
 thought, enquired if the Raja were still disposed to 
 sacrifice his wealth for his daughter's restoration, and, 
 behig assured of the fact, he then encomaged him to 
 hope. 
 
 " Be comforted, my son," said he, " there is certain 
 life for yourself and your child, if you will follow my 
 counsel. Convert all that you have into gold, and, 
 taking it with you as a peace oflTering, set forth ^rith
 
 MONEA. 39 
 
 your daughter upon a pilgrimage to the source of the 
 sacred river Sone; and, when you anive at the holy 
 to^Ti of Omirkantac, enquire for an aged Brahmin, by 
 name Ramdoorg ; relate to him your history as unre- 
 servedly as you have told it to me, and in the Dhurma 
 Shastra he shall point out to you the means by which 
 your daughter shall be saved. Tany not upon the 
 way lest you arrive too late ; go speedily, and with as 
 small a retinue as possible. Diligence and contrition 
 alone can expiate your crime in having deserted the 
 true gods. Talk not of remuneration to me ; your 
 whole wealth will be needful to your purpose ; and by 
 this you may judge of my sincerity." 
 
 Rung Bhowani, placing implicit faith in the words 
 of the devout Brahmin, hastened to commence his 
 journey, according to the directions he had received. 
 The fast declining, but still beautiful, Chahni was 
 conveyed in an easy litter during the cool of the night ; 
 and the anxious father rode beside the conveyance, 
 absorbed in his grief, and heedless of all except the 
 gentle voice of his child, who, while strength lasted, 
 ceased not to speak in accents of hope and consolation. 
 After a long and weary pilgrimage, during which poor 
 Rung Bhowani's remaining spirits were fast ebbing — 
 for Chahni continued to grow more and more feeble, 
 so that they despaired of reaching their destination 
 while life remained — the little company arrived at the 
 long-looked-for Omirkantac; and without delay the 
 Raja sought the Brahmin Ramdoorg, who, fore-know- 
 e2
 
 40 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 ing his history and misfortunes, at once promised him 
 relief. " Bring hither your daughter/' said the vene- 
 rable man, " cast upon the altar of the offended Krish- 
 na all that you possess of worldly wealth, retrace your 
 steps in humility and hard privation, and the child 
 shall be restored ere you have travelled three days 
 journey from Omirkantac. The consecrated waters 
 will not work the cure unless your faith be proved." 
 'Tis said, that with full hope and confidence, the 
 Raja deposited upon the altar of the god his all of 
 wealth, stripping his person of his robes and jewels, 
 and adopting the scanty garb of the destitute. Chah- 
 ni, too, gave up her trinkets and her costly garments 
 before she could effectually receive the healing waters 
 from the holy man. Both drank and turned to depart 
 from the sacred city, as they were commanded by the 
 Brahmin. But, alas ! the aged father, enfeebled by 
 the long course of affliction and excitement under 
 which he had suffered, found himself, in his poverty, 
 deserted by his followers ; no slave was at his beck to 
 raise the litter; no hand to aid him, or assist his 
 child. They two alone remained to one another, 
 equally helpless ; yet did not Rung Bhowani despair : 
 having in vain besought the services of the by-standers, 
 he raised his drooping child, and half-supporting, half- 
 caiTving her in his arms, with slow and painful steps 
 he withdrew her from the gaze of the multitude, his 
 stifled sighs and prayers unmixed with aught approach- 
 ing to a murmm'.
 
 MONEA. 41 
 
 They had not continued their distressing advance 
 far beyond the suburbs, when, utterly overpowered 
 with fatigue, they were compelled to seek shelter in 
 a miserable deserted hovel by the road side. Here 
 they were fortunately supplied with water and a small 
 quantity of parched grain by a woman, who, commise- 
 rating their sufferings, followed them from the town 
 after sunset, and with more humanity than her neigh- 
 bours endeavom'ed to sooth and encourage them. 
 The exhausted father and child having in the warmest 
 terms expressed their gratitude, received an assurance 
 that her kindness should be renewed before they de- 
 parted on their journey the next morning. Relieved 
 and animated by this tender treatment which they so 
 little expected, it was with complete resignation, and 
 something approaching to happiness that they lay 
 themselves down to rest upon the ground, rendered 
 little more inviting by the miserable blanket which 
 the father carried. 
 
 Here in soft sleep (a while) they escaped the extreme 
 misery of their condition. The slumbers of the beau- 
 tiful Chahni, gentle and unbroken, were such as had 
 not visited her couch for many months ; but the 
 anxiety and careful solicitude of the Raja rendered 
 his sleep disturbed and restless. Trains of dim 
 and confused images crowded through his mind, as- 
 suming now the substantial form of waking thought, 
 and now the misty, strange, disordered semblance of 
 a vision. The miserable hut which covered them 
 e3
 
 42 
 
 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 rose from its lowly fonn and shapeless walls to mon- 
 strous cavern ed domes and vaulted roofs, upreared on 
 rocky pillars from the deep foundations of the earth. 
 Dark and immeasurable chambers were peopled with 
 ghostly forms and gliding spectres, now laughing and 
 gibing, now welcoming the old Raja with kindly 
 smile, and promising good tidings of his darling 
 Chahni, whom he had lost he knew not where. Now 
 he recognised the Brahmin Ramdoorg leading forth 
 his daughter in health and all her fonner beauty ; 
 and now he beheld the accursed Tantras enveloped in 
 flames, a prey to hideous sei-pents, who, with fiend- 
 like wrath and with voices of thunder, demanded his 
 pure and lovely child. 
 
 The earth trembled, and the tottering walls opened, 
 admitting a blinding glare of light, from crackling 
 and devouring flames, in the midst of which, unscathed, 
 the venerable Ramdoorg stood forth, his countenance 
 full of dignity and virtue. " Hence ! Rung Bhowani," 
 he exclaimed ; " Hence ! or you perish." The heat 
 became intolerable, a fearful crash, followed by a 
 shriek which seemed to rend the vaulted roof asunder, 
 awoke the Raja, who starting to his feet found him- 
 self enveloped in flames, and beheld his daughter 
 with wild impassioned gesture entreating a stranger 
 to rescue him from the bimiing hut : at a bound he 
 dashed through the flames and clasped her in his 
 aims. A glance sufliced to tell the entire tale ; the 
 thunders roared, the lightnings flashed so vividly that
 
 MONEA. 43 
 
 the sky was continually illuminated, and the wind 
 was raging with fearful violence : their miserable 
 place of refuge had been fired by the electric fluid, 
 and in a very few minutes was consumed. 
 
 But what was the delight of the Raja when he 
 beheld his precious child, with renewed strength, able 
 to stand and walk without assistance ! He doubted 
 at first the testimony of his senses, and then, notwith- 
 standing his faith in the promises of the holy Ram- 
 doorg, he trembled lest she should relapse into her 
 helpless state of disease and suffering : but no ; she 
 momentarily improved in health, and his pious grati- 
 tude would not long suffer his doubts to continue. 
 The rain now burst in toiTents from the over-charged 
 clouds, and they were obliged to seek shelter in a 
 ruined tomb hard by. Rung Bhowani tmned to ex- 
 amine the stranger whom till now he had scarcely 
 noticed : it was the old Brahmin whom he had en- 
 countered in the temple of Krishna at Jaurhat ; the 
 Raja knelt and received his blessing, esteeming their 
 second rencontre at so great a distance as nothing 
 less than miraculous. The Brahmin enquired the 
 particulars of their journey, and being informed of 
 all, he bestowed upon them a small coin, and departed 
 on his way to the city, whither he was bound on some 
 mission of benevolence- 
 No sooner had they entered the centre apartment 
 of the dilapidated tomb in which they sought refuge, 
 than Rung Bhowani became sensible of the presence
 
 44 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 of hidden treasure concealed within the walls and 
 buried beneath the crumbling pavement. He took 
 prudent measures for possessing himself of these 
 riches, and became again an opulent man, but returned 
 no more to the country of Kamroop. He built 
 himself a noble palace, of which the ruins are still 
 shown at Omirkantac ; and bestowed his beautiful 
 daughter Chahni in marriage upon the only son of a 
 neighbouring Raja. Rung Bhowani took the Brahmins 
 of the place into especial favour, but he did not many 
 years survive the fortunate result of his pilgrimage. 
 He, however, had the satisfaction of beholding the 
 young family of his children springing up to suc- 
 ceed him, and earnestly commended the excellent 
 Ramdoorg and his reverend associates to their care 
 and protection. 
 
 The district of Bahar is the only fertile tract of 
 country through which the Sone flows; the land is 
 finely wooded and has all the appearance of the highest 
 cultivation. But this last is not the fact, since the 
 natives are perhaps the most slothful race to be found 
 in Hindostan. The soil owes very little to labour ; 
 so wonderfully prolific is it, that the farmers have 
 little to do but sow and reap ; and yet, owing to 
 their inactive habits and their excessive use of intoxi-
 
 MOXEA. 45 
 
 eating drugs, a more miserable and destitute class 
 of men may be rarely seen. The neighbouring 
 districts have no such natural advantages, and for 
 this reason, labour being necessary to their subsistence, 
 they form a striking contrast to the Baharas. Whole 
 miles of country may be passed, upon the western 
 bank of the river, producing nothing better than a 
 few rushes and scanty jungle grass; the true soil, 
 which would probably be found as productive as that 
 of Bahar, being deeply buried under a succession of 
 sand hillocks, blown up from the river-bed. Even 
 the vicinity of Monea, which is laboriously imgated, 
 would present but a baiTen aspect were it not for 
 the mango and tamarind groves, which wonderfully 
 enliven the monotony of sand-hills and scattered 
 palms. 
 
 Monea has been a town of considerable import- 
 ance, and all around it aie the remains of temples, 
 mosques, and tombs, presenting a smgiilar mixture of 
 the Moslem and Hindoo styles. The principal object 
 of attraction among these is the Mausoleum of Muk- 
 doom Shah, a prince of the family of Oude, which, 
 though in a state of great decay, is a fine specimen 
 of ancient Moslem architecture, and is now used by 
 Mussulmans as a mosque. It forms the middle dis- 
 tance of the annexed plate, from which it is hoped a 
 con'ect idea of it may be formed. The material is a 
 fine grey stone, very carefully wrought and put to- 
 gether, without any cement in the walls. In the
 
 46 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 construction of the dome it is evident that something 
 of the kind has been used, though this is denied by 
 the natives. The carvings are bold and in good taste, 
 but by no means so elaborate, or of such skilful 
 workmanship as the specimens with which similar 
 buildings are adorned in the Doab ; nor is the tomb 
 generally remarkable for the same symmetry of design 
 as those around Agra and Delhi. The dome is very 
 peculiar, being ornamented with intersecting lines, 
 having the appearance of a reticulation, which on 
 near inspection are found to be a representation of 
 plantain leaves overlapping one another; the only 
 design of the kind which I ever with met in India. 
 There is one circumstance, however, about the archi- 
 tectiu-e of this building which at once claimed my 
 attention, and is deserving of particular notice; the 
 principal entrance is formed by a noble Gothic arch, 
 coved and supported by a series of small columns 
 diminishing towards the door, representing a per- 
 spective effect, such as is common in many of our 
 Gothic cathedrals and abbeys in England. This is 
 the only instance of the kind which T have ever seen 
 or heard of in Bengal, or the whole continent of 
 India ; nor have I ever met with any notice of the fact 
 in any disquisition upon the origin of the various styles 
 of architecture of the East, which certainly is not a 
 little to be wondered at; since, although the Egyptian, 
 Moorish, and Hindoo modes may, in the early
 
 MONEA. 47 
 
 ages, have been derived from the same source, each of 
 them occasionally exhibiting traces of the same prin- 
 ciples, and even the peculiar ornaments, which belong 
 to the Greek style ; still in this case we have evidence 
 of a servile copy, not of the order itself, but of a 
 fanciful deviation from the order ; and this an isolated 
 instance. It would be beyond my depth, as much 
 as it would be foreign to the province of this volume, 
 to enter upon a scientific discussion upon this intri- 
 cate subject, but I could not pass the circumstance 
 without remark. 
 
 The i*uius in the foreground of the sketch are 
 the remains of a Serai, or pubhc place of rest for 
 travellers, evidently of a style very superior to the 
 generality of these buildings. They usually foim a 
 quadrangle with a large arched gateway, surmounted 
 with a tower or apartments for the dewan (door- 
 keeper), and each of the small arches around the 
 square forms a lodging for the way-farer, which he 
 occupies at his own pleasure rent-free, paying only 
 a trifle to the sweeper. They are usually erected 
 and endowed by rehgious or humane men of rank 
 and wealth for the accommodation of pilgiims, as a 
 peace offering to the gods ; but they seldom rival in 
 magnificence the mosques and tombs. The one in 
 question must have been superior, both in size and 
 decoration, to any thing of the same kind which I 
 have seen entire, many parts of it bearing evidence
 
 48 THE ORIENTAL AXXUAL. 
 
 of noble proportion and profuse ornament. It was 
 attached to the Mausoleum, and near it there are the 
 remains of a spacious tank or reservoir of water, 
 enclosed with masonry, and approached by handsome 
 flights of shallow steps and suiTounded with pillared 
 and domed pavilions after the oriental fashion ; but 
 this also has been suffered to fall into decay, and 
 certainly from its neglected state, does not readily 
 suggest the grateful idea of its original purpose ; that 
 of ablution. 
 
 These already enumerated are the handsomest and 
 most perfect of the ancient reliques at Monea; and 
 there are xery many highly grotesque Hindoo build- 
 ings and ruined temples scattered in all directions 
 around the town. The most extraordinary of them 
 is a monstrous and ill-shapen image of the gigantic 
 lion Singh devouring an elephant, though it certainly 
 requires the explanation of the guide before the genus 
 of either animal is quite recognizable. The mytho- 
 logical fable here embodied I was unable to ascer- 
 tain ; my expositor, being a devout Mussulman little 
 skilled in the impious lore of pagans, replied to my 
 enquiry — 
 
 ''Does heave Q rain flowers upon the plains of 
 pestilence ? think you the Holy Koran wastes words 
 upon these abominations ? " 
 
 It is probable, however, that the figure is a 
 representation of some part of the endless history of
 
 MONEA. 49 
 
 Krishna, of whom the Veda relates various exploits 
 performed as Nara Singh, half man, half lion. It 
 was under this form that the enraged god, breathing 
 flames, burst from the pillar in the palace of Prince 
 Hirind Kassip, and destroyed that blasphemer ; and 
 in the same disguise he devoured all his enemies in 
 Gokul.
 
 oO 
 
 GHAZIPORE. 
 
 PALACE OF SAHADDT ALL ANCIENT MUSJID. 
 
 The names of most places in India have reference 
 to their early history, and form a convenient clue for 
 the investigations of the traveller. Ghazipore signi- 
 fies the abode of Ghazi ; this place having been 
 distinguished as the favourite residence of the cele- 
 brated Ishmael Ghazi Khan, a holy Mussulman, and 
 a wise and talented commander, who first subdued 
 the country of Dinagepore to the Mogul power ; and 
 whose humanity and impartial justice have gained for 
 him the worship, not only of true Moslems, but even 
 of the Hindoos themselves, who frequently perform 
 long and painful pilgrimages to his tomb at Shora- 
 ghat. We may judge of the excellent wisdom of 
 this chief, by the three fundamental laws which he 
 issued, for the constraint of the fanners and for the 
 benefit of his followers. The first was, that no land- 
 holder or tiller of the land should ever presume to
 
 GHAZIPORE. 51 
 
 sleep upon a bedstead, the earth being his proper 
 couch. Secondly, that none of the inhabitants of the 
 country should attempt to strike a Mussulman under 
 penalty of perdition. Thirdly, that no farmer, or 
 keeper of cows, should ever adulterate the milk sup- 
 plied for the consumption of the true believers. And 
 as these rules were to be observed towards Mussul- 
 mans, so were they to be most religiously conformed 
 with by all other men for ever, as a mark of respect 
 to the memory of the conquerors. The laws live in 
 the mouths of the people continually, but I can 
 speak from experience that they are daily infringed. 
 A feigned observance of the first decree is certainly 
 common, wherever the name of Ghazi is worshipped. 
 The circumstance escaped my notice, until I met 
 with mention of it in the writings of some traveller ; 
 but it will be found that the sacred law is thus remem- 
 bered and evaded. The people make use of a bed- 
 stead of boards, pretending that Ghazi's prohibition 
 extended only to bedsteads strung with tape or cord, 
 such as are generally used throughout Bengal. 
 
 Ghazipore stands upon the north bank of the 
 Ganges, about seventy miles, by water, below Benares. 
 It is not a very extensive tow^n, but is justly cele- 
 brated as the Gul-istan, the rose-bed, of Bengal. In 
 the spring of the year an extent of miles around the 
 town presents to the eye a continued garden of roses, 
 than which, nothing can be more beautiful and fra- 
 grant. The sight is perfectly dazzling ; the plain, as 
 f2 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF 
 ILLINOIS LIBRARY
 
 52 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 far as the eye can reach, extending in the same 
 bespangled carpet of red and gi'een. The breezes, 
 too, are loaded with the sweet odour which is wafted 
 far across the river Ganges. The flower is cultivated 
 thus extensively for the manufacture of rosewater, 
 that of Ghazipore being justly esteemed as surpassing 
 in excellence every production of the sort. Whether 
 or not this may be attributable to the superiority of 
 the flowers, or the process of distillation, I cannot say ; 
 but as the roses did not appear to me to possess 
 greater fragrance than others of their class, I should 
 rather refer it to the latter cause ; unless, indeed, it be 
 that the wonderful abundance of the material enables 
 them to be more lavish in its decoction, than is else- 
 where possible. It is no less cheap than excellent : 
 a gallon of the most delicious may be purchased for 
 seven or eight shillings. They do not, however, 
 understand at Ghazipore, the art of distilling the 
 atr of roses in the same perfection as the Persians. 
 The spurious compound which they endeavour to 
 palm upon the traveller is weak, and possesses a sickly 
 disagreeable odour foreign to the rose ; but the pur- 
 chaser is often deceived by a little of the true atr 
 being rubbed about the stopper and neck of the bottle. 
 The prices demanded for this miserable imitation are 
 exorbitant ; the explanation of which I received from 
 one of the vendors ; he assured me that long ex- 
 perience had taught him, that it was part of the 
 character of the English to despise eveiy thing cheap,

 
 GHAZIPORE. -53 
 
 and to consider any thing choice and excellent which 
 was extravagantly priced. 
 
 The principal object of attraction in Ghazipore is 
 the palace of Sahadut Ali, which was built at the 
 commencement of the last century as a country resi- 
 dence for a Nawab of that name, one of the royal fa- 
 mily of Lucknou ; and also for the purpose of holding 
 some show of constraint over the people of Ghazipore ; 
 whom history declares to have been, from the remotest 
 ages, notorious for their turbulence and discontent, and 
 who still appear determined not to discredit their an- 
 cient reputation. The palace is a very beautiful speci- 
 men of Mogul architecture, and is in tolerable preser- 
 vation, though long since deserted by royalty. There 
 is a v§ry finely proportioned arcade which forais the 
 subject of the illustration, and which is the most pic- 
 turesque part of the building. It forms a front and 
 entrance to the body of the palace, which is mounted 
 upon a high terrace of masonry surrounded with chan- 
 nels for water, and pools and basins of quaint device, in 
 which magnificent jets were once continually playing, 
 but which are now dry and choked with rubbish. The 
 palace itself is planned in the form of an oblong, in the 
 centre of which is a small audience-hall, tastefully deco- 
 rated and supported by pillars, in the same style as 
 those exhibited in the plate ; but the chamber itself is 
 ridiculously small for its object. The angles of the 
 building are terminated in very elegant domed pavi- 
 lions, the windows of which are of white marble trellis-
 
 54 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 work, admirably carved into flowers and running pat- 
 terns of a purely Eastern character. In one of them 
 is a mean marble slab inlaid in the wall, upon which are 
 engraved in Persian characters the words, ' Izzat alia 
 tddla Sahadiit All,' (To God the Almighty be praise ! 
 Sahadut Ali :) without any of the usual string of title 
 and attribute. Parts of the structure are freestone 
 from Chunar, and other parts are built and ornamented 
 with red sandstone which must have been brought from 
 Allahabad. The site of the palace is particularly fine 
 and commanding ; and from the arcade, the view up 
 and down the Ganges is very varied and extensive. Up- 
 on a projecting angle of the river bank, it is mounted 
 about fifty feet above the stream, upon the top of an 
 abrupt precipice, protected by a parapet wall ; below it 
 are the remains of other stone buildings and fortifica- 
 tions ; but the greater part of the available gi'ound has 
 been over run by huts and bazaar hovels, together 
 with a few tawdry Hindoo temples painted red and 
 white. Many of these which would otherwise prove 
 blots in the landscape are rendered highly picturesque 
 by overhanging clusters of the feathery bamboo and 
 tamarind ; and some of the roofs are thickly covered in 
 with a broad-leafed melon-plant, the fruit of which is 
 very large and, when ripe, of a deep gold color. All 
 that the scene requires is a handsome ghat, or flight 
 of steps, leading down to the water-side, in place of the 
 obnoxious pits and the burning-places for the dead 
 which now occupy the lower part of the bank.
 
 GHAZIPORE, 55 
 
 It is Strange indeed that the Hindoos, who will la- 
 vish lahks of rupees upon the construction of a temple 
 or a ghat, and who during many generations have had 
 before them the magnificent models of the houses, or 
 rather palaces of the Mussulmans, shall still continue 
 to inhabit the very meanest and most miserable abodes. 
 They are wonderfully ingenious in architecture, their 
 public buildings are as well adapted to their purposes 
 as they are infinite in their designs; the Hindoos them- 
 selves are fond of ease and luxury ; their lives when 
 relieved from their religious restraints are devoted to 
 pleasure ; their wealth is sacrificed to ostentation and 
 public display ; and yet their dwellings are mere huts 
 devoid of every sort of comfort. The opulent Hindoo, 
 who is boastfully dedicating the overflowings of his 
 treasury to the erection of monstrous pagodas and in- 
 terminable flights of steps, contentedly surveys the pro- 
 gress of the work from the door of his narrow hovel ; 
 consisting perhaps of only a single wretched apartment 
 for the accommodation of all his family ; while the 
 Mussulman with half this wealth is raising superb pa- 
 laces and lordly mansions, wherein to dwell in state, 
 his comforts reduced and coffers impoverished, for the 
 sake of the outward display of a handsome facade. I 
 have more than once made remarks, and have expressed 
 my surprise upon the subject, to rich men and those of 
 high caste among the Hindoos. They allow that reli- 
 gious prejudice has nothing to do with it ; though en- 
 joined to be simple in their manners and abstemious in
 
 •56 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 their living, their creed by no means denies them the 
 luxuries and state of the palace : their best excuse is 
 the heat of the climate, which induces them to prefer 
 the air, in the shade of a virandah or a tree, to anything 
 like internal comfort or elegance in their house ; but 
 there is a more common explanation, and, I believe, the 
 true one, which serves the Hindoo as an answer to every 
 question which he either does not know how, or does 
 not cai'e, to answer — " dustoor hi,'' " it is the custom " 
 • — with them a most insuperable reason why no change 
 should be made, even for the better. Singularly con- 
 trasted as are the Hindoo and the Mussulman, as 
 though, from their mutual dislike, they had made it 
 their mutual study to become as dissimilar as possible, 
 there is no one distinction, perhaps, which divides 
 these two races of men more remarkably than the fa- 
 shion and arrangement of their respective habitations. 
 
 The natives of Ghazipore affirm that close in the vi- 
 cinity of this palace, there formerly stood a college for 
 the instruction of the people iii literature and science ; 
 but that in consequence of the abuse of its pur- 
 pose, and the practice of forbidden mysteries and 
 Jdddoo, a peculiar system of witchcraft, it was de- 
 stroyed by the Gods. There is no mention of this 
 however in the Ayeen Akbari, the history of the 
 times of Akbar, written by Abul Fazil ; nor do the 
 inhabitants offer any evidence of its ti'uth, beyond 
 the vague words of tradition and the traces of foun- 
 dations, which might certainly be those of a tern-
 
 GHAZIPORE. 57 
 
 pie or palace. At all events there are no professors 
 of the black art now existing in the neighbourhood, 
 though, in other parts of India, those who practise 
 it are by no means rare. I had a servant of great 
 intelligence and insatiable curiosity, a native of Gha- 
 zipore, from whom I leamt many strange things 
 concerning the Hindoos of the place. Among other 
 things he described to me a sect of Brahmins who are 
 not supposed to be addicted to the practice of sorcery, 
 although very secret in their religious ceremonies, 
 and jealous of certain occult peculiarities of their 
 sect. Rejecting the belief of metempsychosis, which 
 is a very material object of the Hindoo faith, they had 
 adopted doctrines so singularly parallel with those of 
 Pythagoras in all other respects as to leave little doubt 
 as to their real origin. In the first place they teach 
 that the entire universe was created by a Supreme 
 Deity ; that the souls of men were, before this hfe, pre- 
 existent in the divine being,* into which they will 
 ultimately be again merged, after having been purified 
 from all evil and earthly propensities. 
 
 These Hindoos are instructed by their priests, not 
 only in matters of religion, and the peculiar prejudices 
 and ceremonies of their order, but, also, in the ele- 
 ments of science and literature. Upon all their fol- 
 
 * This idea is most sublimely expressed by these Brahmins, In 
 likening; the emanations from the divine spirit to the light and heat 
 given forth by the sun, whose essence is thereby neither diminished 
 nor dispersed.
 
 58 
 
 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 lowers a profound secrecy is imposed, as to the imme- 
 diate forms and observances with which their tenets are 
 bound up; they are subject entirely to the Brahmins 
 in the direction of their domestic affairs, and subsist 
 upon a common stock, which is in the hands of the 
 Brahmins. There is throughout all these features such 
 a wonderful resemblance lo the doctrines of Pythagoras, 
 that we can only conclude that both spring from the 
 same source. The antiquarian who has not troubled 
 himself to investigate the strange discoveries of the 
 present century in the East will tell us it is probable 
 they were brought by some pilgrim from Egypt or 
 Chaldea, while the philosopher of Samos was teaching 
 in those countries. Of course there has been a consi- 
 derable admixture of Hindooism with the original 
 system ; a whole firmament of lesser divinities is framed 
 to suit the Hindoo mythology, but they are all in sub- 
 servience to the Supreme Being, who has created and 
 who upholds the universe. Here truly is most abun- 
 dant matter for speculation, and although aware that 
 this is not exactly its proper place, I cannot refrain 
 from alluding to the strange analogy existing betw^een 
 the religious and social manners of the Hindoos and 
 Egyptians, of which this is a fresh instance. Early 
 education teaches us to regard Egypt as the well and 
 fountain-head of literature, science, and the arts, from 
 whence the streams have flowed on all sides throughout 
 the world : but notwithstanding classic authority, not- 
 withstanding the silence of Greek and Latin authors as
 
 GHAZIPORE. 59 
 
 to the civilization of the Hindoos, notwithstanding 
 their continual and consentient testimony in favour of 
 the Egyptians, and in despite of the bias of opinion 
 confirmed by the sanction of ages, the prejudices of 
 education, the predilections in favour of ancient and 
 established lore and history, in defiance of all inclina- 
 tion, it is daily becoming more and more a subject of 
 doubt and enquiry to the learned, vi^hether the palm of 
 antiquity and priority of civilization is justly bestowed 
 upon the Egyptians, or whether it does not in truth 
 belong to the Hindoos. 
 
 In mentioning the particular sect of Hindoos, — for 
 such they call themselves, — above described, I have 
 encroached upon matter which I certainly should not 
 have selected for these pages, nor would it have been 
 introduced, had it not arisen necessarily in elucidation 
 of my subject. Having once touched it, I trust I shall 
 be excused for venturing to add another word or two, 
 in the hope of correcting a very general and vulgar 
 error regarding the religion of the Hindoos. I believe 
 that the majority of Christians in this country believe 
 that the '' stocks and stones " to which the Hindoos 
 bow are the immediate and only object of their devo- 
 tion. It may be so in some very few instances, where 
 the people have been blinded, and the religion cor- 
 rupted, by the ignorance or artful designs of the 
 Brahmins : but this is the perversion, not the religion. 
 The numberless idols are intended and explained by 
 the Poorans, or holy commentaries, to be emblems only
 
 60 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 of the infinite power and wisdom of the Supreme God, 
 of whose comitless attributes, collectively, our narrow 
 minds can form no adequate conception ; and being 
 unable to embody the entire divinity in any abstract 
 idea, recourse is had to a separation of the attributes, 
 by which process alone the human intellect can ever 
 duly aj)preciate the unlimited extent and supremity of 
 this " Spirit of Wisdom." This is evidently intended, 
 from the circumstance that the Hindoos have no image 
 of Brahma, the Great God. There is scarcely one 
 Christian in ten who appears to understand that this 
 belief is inculcated by the Hindoo religion. The 
 Hindoos have no religious hatred of other faiths : their 
 antipathy to the Mussulmans arose, not against their 
 religion, but in consequence of usui-pations and op- 
 pression : they admit no proselytes, and they aver an 
 opinion that God has given to all people that worship 
 which is best adapted to their own country and habits. 
 The preface to the Brahminical translation of Hindoo 
 laws and observances runs in these words, as translated 
 by Mr. Halhed : *' The truly intelligent well know- 
 that the difference and variety of created things, and 
 the contrarieties of constitutions, are types of God's 
 wonderful attributes, whose complete power formed all 
 things in the animal, vegetable, and material world ; 
 whose benevolence selected man to have dominion and 
 authority over the rest ; who having bestowed on him 
 judgment and understanding, gave him supremacy 
 over the corners of the world ; who having put into his
 
 GHAZIPORE. 61 
 
 hands the control and disposal of things, appointed to 
 each tribe its own religion ; and who instituted a va- 
 riety of castes, and a multitude of different customs, 
 but views with pleasure in every place the mode of 
 worship particularly appointed to it ; He is with the 
 attendants upon the mosque in counting the sacred 
 beads, as much as He is in the temple with the Hin- 
 doos at the adoration of the idols." To the greater 
 number of my readers I believe this view of Hindooism 
 will be new and unexpected ; but it is familiar to all 
 who have travelled in India, and it is certainly extra- 
 ordinary that the truth has not, long since, become 
 universally known. I cannot help thinking that it is 
 frequently withheld, lest the Christian public should 
 relax in their efforts of conversion among these people. 
 At the distance of about two miles from the river 
 side are some extensive Hindoo ruins of serais and 
 temples, apparently very ancient, and also several 
 Mussulman tombs and mosques of more recent dates. 
 Among the former are the remains of a serai of con- 
 siderable dimensions, part of which is still in sufficiently 
 good preservation for the accommodation of those tra- 
 vellers who are not very particular about the appear- 
 ance of their resting-place, or who are superior to the 
 nervous restlessness experienced by some timorous 
 persons when musing upon the dimensions of a gaping 
 chasm in the architecture over-head, from which the 
 loosened mortar does occasionally come rattling down, 
 
 G
 
 62 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 but only perhaps when shaken by the sportive gam- 
 bols of some passmg elephant. 
 
 The gardens of the natives are here exceedingly 
 pretty ; but some of them almost overpower the refined 
 nasal susceptibility of the European, the most power- 
 fully aromatic plants being cultivated for the purpose 
 of distillation. There are also some very beautiful 
 tanks, or sacred artificial basins of water, and several 
 monuments, erected as memorials of suttis which have 
 been performed upon the spot. These generally con- 
 sist of a mere rude pile of masonry, from ten to twenty 
 feet high, of a conical form, and whitewashed ; but in 
 my wanderings about the place, I came upon one of a 
 more perishable nature, the intent of which I should 
 not have discovered but for the explanation of a Hin- 
 doo, who being a near relative of the self-sacrificed 
 widow, had built a small hut near it, and made it his 
 business to tend and decorate it. It was a thick 
 bower, formed by interlacing the flexile stems of 
 bamboo, the interior of which was of a conical form, 
 presenting very much the appearance of an ever-green 
 temple ; upon the side opposite the entrance was a 
 rudely carved trunk of wood, intended to represent the 
 figure of the widow ; around the apartment were 
 ranged different small gods, one or two of stone or 
 wood, but the greater number of clay; garlands of 
 flowers were hung round over these, and long branches 
 of the chumheli,ox double-blossomed jessamine, twined
 
 GHAZIPORE. 63 
 
 in a spiral form, hung pendent from the centre. At 
 the m'gent petition of the old man I did not enter this 
 sacred arbour, but I was rather encouraged to gaze 
 upon it from the entrance by his communicative dis- 
 position, although by his continual allusions to his 
 extreme poverty and my unlimited wealth, I was per- 
 suaded that his forward civilities were prompted by 
 the hope of alms. I promised him some small coin 
 if he would relate to me the story of 
 
 THE SUTTI. 
 
 He very readily complied, to the following effect; 
 having first begged permission to seat himself, on 
 the plea of his great age and infirmity ; for it fortu 
 nately happens that all, or nearly all the natives 
 whom we find in these picturesque situations are 
 tottering with venerable years ; the young and active 
 being required to devote their powers to the support 
 of their families. Having seated himself upon his 
 heels, a g}TQnastic feat which all the natives of Hin- 
 dostan practise from infancy, he thus commenced 
 his tale with a proem worthy of a court. 
 
 " Protector of the Poor, good fortune is written 
 upon your brow ; may your proper destiny never be 
 thwarted by your evil genius; may you be as suc- 
 cessful in all your gi-eat undertakings as you are 
 fortunate in the less important objects of your will. 
 Yes, chosen of heaven, you are very fortunate in 
 g2
 
 64 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 having applied to your devoted slave Baba Kulloo 
 for the infomiation you require. Though no better 
 than an insect in the greatness of your honour's 
 presence, who is there that is able to speak of the 
 heroism, the triumphant virtue, of the beautiful Lall 
 Radha, with better assurance of truth, than her own 
 nephew Babba Kulloo ? whose hand supported her 
 during the long illness of Bhagut, her husband, whose 
 hand kindled the sacred pile, and whose hand gathered 
 the blackened bones. As long as it shall please 
 the great Brahma to grant me life and sufficient 
 strength, I will not fail daily to sprinkle this spot 
 with the milk of the holy cow and the purifying 
 water of the sacred Ganges, in honour of that great 
 and glorious day. 
 
 " Great Sir, I am told that the Sahib log (gentle- 
 men, apijlied as a term of distinction to the Enghsh) 
 believe that we were wont to compel our widovvs 
 to this sacrifice, before they extended the ann of 
 power to prevent us. This is quite eiToneous. The 
 Shastra most urgently forbids force to be used ; the 
 sacrifice must be perfectly voluntary in all its stages 
 to be acceptable to the divine Brahma. Coercion could 
 not be employed without dishonour to the Brahmins 
 and the widow's friends, while the virtue of the sacri- 
 fice would be lost. Our sacred law does not exact 
 or command a compliance with this rite, though it 
 certainly approves of and encourages it. The most 
 emphatic words upon the subject are these; 'It is
 
 GHAZIPORE. 65 
 
 proper for a woman to cast herself upon the funeral 
 pile of her husband/* but there is no stiict command; 
 neither are there any denunciations against such as 
 may neglect this holy sacrifice, although it is true 
 that glory and blessings in a future state are pro- 
 mised as a reward to those who observe it. Those 
 who decline the trial are commanded to cut oiT their 
 hair, cast off their ornaments, to observe inviolable 
 chastity, and to labour in the service of their children. 
 What more could be required ? except among those 
 people whose widows are taken to \nfe by the brothers 
 
 * In the Pooran of Angira it is thus written. "The woman who 
 mounts the funeral pile of her deceased husband equals herself to 
 Arundhoti, the wife of Vashista, and enjoys bliss in heaven with her 
 husband. She dwells with him in heaven for thirty-five mtLlions of 
 years, which is equal to the number of hairs upon the human body, 
 and by her own power taking her husband up, in the same manner 
 as a snake-catcher would take a snake out of its hole, remains with 
 him in diversion. She who thus goes with her husband to the other world 
 purifies three generations, that is, the generations of her mother's side, 
 father's side, and husband's side j and so she being reckoned the purest 
 and the best in fame among women, becomes too dear to her husband, 
 and continues to deUght him during fourteen Indras, and although her 
 husband be guilty of slaying a Brahmin or friend, or be ungrateful of 
 past deeds, yet is his vsife capable of purifying him from all these sins." 
 Here the reward promised is not everlasting, but only for a stated term. 
 Now eternal bliss, " absorption in Brahma," is promised tluoughout 
 the Shastras to those who continue to lead a holy and religious life, in 
 thorough purity, and in the regular fulfilment of Brahma's commands. 
 These words are quoted from the Veda j " By living in the practice of 
 regular duties the mind may be purified. Hereafter by hearing, 
 reflecting, and constantly meditating upon the Supreme Being, ab- 
 sorption in Brahma may be attained. Therefore, from a desire dur- 
 ing life of future fruition, life ought not to be destroyed." Thus is a 
 pure and holy life inculcated as infinitely more acceptable to Brahma 
 than self-immolation on the funeral pile. 
 
 G 3
 
 66 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 of the deceased. But with the prospect of long ages 
 of bliss in the glorious mansions of paradise upon the 
 one hand, and the sight of a dreary and dismantled 
 home of servitude and degradation on the other, who 
 would be slow to choose ? Who would hesitate to 
 hurry through the fiery portals, to the gardens of 
 heavenly joy and splendour, when to linger is to be 
 excluded for ever ; and this for the sake of wandering 
 on a few more hours over the baiTen scorching wilds 
 of a joyless and solitary desert. Hear how the wise 
 and faithful Lall Radha made her choice. As she had 
 been kind and dutiful to her husband in life, so was 
 she not to be restrained from hastening, at once, to join 
 him in that future world of pure delight, which already 
 she had won for herself by her devoted life — 
 
 ' She was a pearl too chaste on earth to dwell 
 And waste her splendour in this earthly shell.'* 
 
 May she for ever enjoy a glorious fulfilment of the 
 divine Brahma's promise ! 
 
 " Your slave's father, whose name was Dewal, and 
 Bhagut, the husband of Lall Radha, were twins, the 
 only children of my grandfather, a man of the Khetri 
 caste, highly esteemed by his relations and his friends 
 for his equal temper, his suavity of manners, his good 
 sense, and ready courage. In his youth he was re- 
 markable for the noble beauty of his countenance, 
 great activity and bodily strength, together with a 
 
 * Arabic Poem.
 
 GHAZIPORE. 6/ 
 
 most princely bearing. Being moreover a man of 
 great jnety, he was beloved among the Brahmins, and 
 by them he was persuaded to embrace the active duties 
 of his caste and join the forces of the INIaharhattas, 
 under the banners of Madhaji Scindia, who was then 
 in co-operation with Trimbuck Mamma, to oppose 
 the daily injuries which were practised against the 
 religious notions of the Hindoos, both by the Ma- 
 hommedan and British powers ; who not only before 
 our eyes delighted to insult our religion, by overbur- 
 dening and cruelly treating the ox, but hesitated not 
 to slay and feed upon that sacred animal. Madhaji 
 Scindia was careful to observe and protect, even in his 
 times of gi'eatest difl5culty, all the rites and ceremonies 
 of our faith ; and to him we looked to repel the wanton 
 attacks of our insulting foes. 
 
 "It was the good fortune of my grandfather, during 
 the first few years of his sen-ice, to distinguish him- 
 self in many successive actions, by which he obtained 
 both fame and riches; but in the year 1771, when 
 opposed to Hyder Ali, he is said to have wrought won- 
 ders in battle. The army of that chief was utterly 
 routed, fifteen thousand of his choicest troops lay dead 
 upon the field : my noble grandsire, supported by ten 
 of his own followers, had hewn his way, through the 
 ranks of the enemy, to the very person of the Moslem 
 chief, to whom he offered quarter, claiming him as his 
 prisoner. Hyder Ali was for a moment aghast at his 
 peril, but seeing that the day was lost and his person
 
 bo THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 at the mercy of a very small band of the enemy, he 
 called lustily upon his guards for rescue, and, in a 
 second, seven of his captors were prostrate on the plain, 
 and my gi'andfather and three of his gallant men were 
 taken prisoners and hurried from the field in rapid 
 flight. 
 
 " Hyder was excited to frenzy by the unexpected 
 loss of a victory which he had already called his own, 
 and by the disproportionate carnage between his own 
 ranks and those of the foe ; moreover he was stirred 
 to fury and revenge by the sight of the princely forms 
 and demeanour of the few prisoners whom he had 
 carried off. From his darkly clouded brow he cast 
 upon them a glance of envious hate and rage, and, 
 in a voice of thunder, commanded them to be shot 
 like dogs and exposed to the vultures. Then recalling 
 his sentence he cried with a fiendish laugh; 'Nay ! let 
 these Pagans bear witness how greatly we esteem 
 their boasted beauty and their prowess. It were 
 cruel to withhold such able gallants from their anxious 
 loves, their weeping mistresses ; 'twere cruel to keep 
 back such god-like heroes from their victorious and 
 rejoicing comrades. Unbind them ; give them their 
 liberty ; restore them to their fond flatterers and their 
 noble compatTiots. Let them go and tell of their 
 glorious deeds among our people ; how they took 
 Hyder Ali prisoner with all his army and earned 
 them into a far land and barred them in rocky pri- 
 sons; or let them modestly discount the value of
 
 GHAZIPORE. 69 
 
 their heroic deeds, by telling of the craven -hearted 
 fear and shrinking cowardice of their victims. Cast 
 off those paltry cords from the hands of these demi- 
 gods ; arm them with costly and well-tried weapons ; 
 fill well their girdles with gold ; and mounting them 
 upon the noblest Arabs in my camp, with abject 
 deference and all courtly honour set them forth upon 
 their journey. But, ere they depart, to render them 
 more worthy the caresses of their queens, more 
 eloquent in their own praise and our disgrace, more 
 powerful in battle when next we meet, just clip their 
 ears and noses from their heads, burn out their 
 tongues, take from them the fingers of the right 
 hand, and snap in twain the bones of their right amis. 
 Hence ! Nay ; here in my presence shall this com- 
 pliment be paid them.' 
 
 " Thus mutilated did my gi'andfather return to the 
 camp of the conqueror with his three followers, and 
 shortly hence retired to Ghazipore, where his relations 
 dwelt, and where he had left his \\-ife and two sons for 
 protection. He did not long survive his cruel misfor- 
 tune ; but praised be Brahma, ere he died he was deeply 
 avenged on his mutilators ; for shortly after his return 
 to the camp, the Maharhatta army captured a whole 
 regiment of Hyder Ali's sipahies, and retaliated upon 
 them the same punishment, sending them to hail their 
 chief, tied back to back, with black banners flying 
 between them. Under these painful circumstances 
 were my father and Bhagut, my uncle, deprived of both
 
 70 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 their parents while they were yet boys, for my grand- 
 mother did not hesitate to follow her deceased lord to the 
 funeral pile. Yonder is the mhut which records her 
 virtue. Praised be Brahma ! 
 
 " The estate of my gi'andsire was equally divided 
 between his twin sons, Bhagut and my father ; but 
 they being still children, their property was placed in 
 the charge of their relations, who faithlessly squandered 
 the gi'eater portion of it for their own enjoyment; — 
 may they meet with their reward ! — And thus our 
 family became again impoverished, and were compelled 
 to seek such employment as was consistent with their 
 caste. Having both been betrothed in marriage shortly 
 before their father's death, they in their youth thirsted 
 for glory, and promising to return in the course of two 
 years to claim their brides, they enlisted under the 
 standards of the Maharhattas, and marched against the 
 English forces ; but Brahma was not pleased that they 
 should engage in the dangers of warfare, for Hyder Ali 
 having at this time invaded the Carnatic, the British 
 General in 1802 concluded a treaty of peace with the 
 Maharhattas, restoring all conquest except the island of 
 Salsette ; and the arms of the Maharhattas being hence- 
 forward frequently turned against the peaceful occu- 
 piers of the soil, Bhagut and my father became 
 disgusted with their marauding system of plunder, and 
 returned to Ghazipore ; where they claimed their brides 
 and took them home to the house which they shared in 
 common.
 
 GHAZIPORE. 71 
 
 " Be pleased for a moment. Protector of the Poor, 
 to regard the now faded features and the no-longer- 
 yoiithful frame of your humble slave." Here the old 
 man reared himself to the height of his stature, looking 
 proudly around him. "Do you not confess that, 
 although now time-worn and care-worn, and at all 
 times insignificant in your honour's presence, the son 
 of Dewal has in his youth possessed both strength and 
 grace and beauty ? If so, how much more perfect 
 was Dewal himself. Dewal and Bhagut were almost 
 as remarkable for their noble bearing and their beauty 
 as was their father, and the divine Brahma saw fit to 
 bless them with wives of equal loveliness and excel- 
 lence. The first years of their man'ied life, though 
 spent in the absence of wealth and grandeur, were those 
 of happiness and mutual delight. But, alas ! human 
 felicity can never be complete. The content and 
 satisfaction which at first reigned within our dwelling 
 were sadly broken up, when, as the seasons came and 
 passed away, the amiable Lall Radha remained un- 
 blessed with any offsprnig ; while in the course of six 
 years my mother's family consisted of no less than five. 
 Neither envy nor jealousy entered the heart of that 
 excellent woman, though daily her cheek sunk with se- 
 cret grief, and the hilarity of youth and happiness fled 
 from her languid but all-beautiful form. It was evident 
 that the displeasure of God was upon her or her hus- 
 band ; fasting and penance, prayer and sacrifice were 
 alike ineffectual ; and at last the devout Bhagut resolved
 
 72 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 to perforai a pilgrimage to Allahabad and Hurdwar, 
 observing the most rigorous vows of toil and abstinence 
 to remove the displeasure of the gi'eat Brahma ; but he 
 was compelled, in compHance with the entreaties of his 
 brother and sister-in-law, to leave his darling partner 
 under their care and protection, her daily declining health 
 rendering her quite unable to attempt the journey. 
 
 " The resolute Bliagut tore himself from the en- 
 twined arms of his wife, and commenced his painful 
 pilgrimage. From that day the oppression of sickness 
 began to be removed from the life of Lall Radha, and 
 in a very few months the bright hue of health resumed 
 its resting place on her soft cheek. Her glancing eye, 
 her once more musical voice spoke joy, and hope, and 
 confidence in the safe and happy return of Bhagut. 
 The days rolled round, the weeks and months passed 
 on, and, as Bhagut returned not, anxiety took posses- 
 sion of her heart : still her fears were only such as a 
 wife's love of necessity entertains ; though her religious 
 confidence was for a moment dashed with heart-heaving 
 apprehension, it was unspoken, and the next moment 
 dispelled with penitence for her unholy doubt. 
 
 A year had passed away since Bhagut had taken his 
 departure. It was the anniversary of that occurrence, 
 and the beautiful Lall Radha, full of joy and hope, spoke 
 with energetic faith her assurance that the long absent 
 pilgrim would return that day. Having performed 
 her ablutions and devotion, she dressed herself with 
 more than usual care, and pulling on her bridal orna-
 
 GHAZIPORE. 73 
 
 ments, decorated her glossy hfiir with a flower of the 
 water-lily. Throughout the sultry day we passed our 
 time under the thick and fragrant shade of the drooping 
 bamboos, my mother and the beautiful Lall Radha 
 being employed with their favourite operation of spin- 
 ning. Lively and full of hope, Lall Radha continued 
 to pursue her task, her quick eye glancing continually 
 in all directions, but still without unseemly fear or 
 doubt. Even as the sun declined towards the west, no 
 change was visible, except that, perhaps, her spirit rose 
 anew, and the blush of health upon her cheek deepened 
 its colour. Suddenly a long and piercing shriek rung 
 through the air, re-echoed back by the suiTOunding 
 woods; and lo ! a ghastly and emaciated being, more 
 resembling the grim phantoms of the dead than any- 
 thing of human life, lay prostrate on the earth before 
 the terrified Lall Radha, kissing her feet, and gi-asping 
 her knees with the cold and heavy grip of exhausted 
 strength. It was the pilgi'im Bhagut, who, with a last 
 effort of his fainting energies, had dragged himself 
 through the boughs of bamboo, and cast himself at the 
 feet of his adored wife, the cruel privations of his pil- 
 grimage fully remunerated by seeing his beloved one 
 restored to health and all her youthful beauty, whom 
 he had despaired of ever meeting more in this life. 
 
 " All that the kindest care and attention of a fond 
 wife and devoted relations could do for the nourishment 
 of the emaciated and enfeebled Bhagut was tenderly 
 bestowed upon him ; but alas ! his condition was sad 
 
 H
 
 74 THE ORIENTAL AXXUAL. 
 
 indeed, his strength destroyed, and his constitution un- 
 deimined. For a few months he somewhat recovered 
 from his extreme debility, and was enabled to give an 
 account of his hard and dangerous pilgi image ; but 
 disease ,had sapped the foundations of his life, and it 
 was evident that he could not much longer continue 
 with us. He lingered in trial and suffering about two 
 years after his return, and then was gathered to his 
 fathers. May God reward his excellence ! At the time 
 of Bhagut's death I was about fourteen years of age, 
 and throughout his illness I had not ceased to aid and 
 comfort both him and the incomparable Lall Radha. 
 When the torch of life was about to expire, we carried 
 him to the Ganges bank, and placed him over the 
 sacred stream until animation had fled ; and this had 
 no sooner taken place than the heroic Lall Radha de- 
 clared her intention of burning with the corpse of her 
 beloved. May the gi-eat Brahma be gi'aciously pleased 
 bv long expiation on our parts to forgive us ! I re- 
 oret to confess that so dearly was our beautiful relative 
 beloved, that we joined in one voice to dissuade her 
 from her holy purpose ; but, God be praised, she was 
 proof against our e\dl temptations, her determination 
 was inflexible; she tmned a deaf ear to our entreaties, 
 and even reproved the Brahmins for lukewarmness : 
 for when they beheld her exceeding beauty they fal- 
 tered in their commendations of her choice. 
 
 " Fearing intervention from the British authorities 
 it was decided that this solemn rite, contrary to the
 
 GHAZIPORE. 75 
 
 usual practice, should be performed at a distance from 
 the river side; the margin of the consecrated tank 
 was selected for the purpose. After ceremonies of 
 purification had been performed upon the spot, strong 
 stakes of bamboo were driven into the ground, en- 
 closing an oblong space* about seven feet in length, 
 and six in breadth, the stakes being about eight feet in 
 height: within this enclosure the pile was built of 
 straw, and boughs, and logs of wood : upon the top a 
 small arbour was constructed of wreathed bamboos, 
 and this was hung mth flowers within and without. 
 About an hour after the sun had risen, prayers and 
 ablutions having been carefully and devoutly per- 
 formed by all, more especially by the Brahmins and 
 Lall Radha, who was also otherwise purified and 
 fitted for the sacrifice, the corpse of the deceased 
 husband was brought from the house, attended by the 
 administering Brahmins, and surrounded by the 
 silent and weeping friends and relations of the family. 
 Immediately following the corpse came Lall Radha, 
 enveloped in a scarlet veil which completely hid her 
 beautiful person from view. When the body was 
 placed upon the pile, the feet being towards the west, 
 the Brahmins took the veil from Lall Radha, and, 
 for the first time, the glaring multitude were suffered 
 
 * It is worthy of remark, that all castes of the Hindoos have a su- 
 perstitious prejudice against anything which is square, and will 
 invariably find some expedient for altering its dimensions, either 
 by cutting off or adding, or by removing the corners of such a 
 figure. 
 
 h2
 
 76 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 to gaze upon that lovely face and form ; but the holy 
 woman was too deeply engaged in solemn prayer and 
 converse with Brahma to be sensible of their pre- 
 sence, or of the murmur of admiration which ran 
 through the crowd. Then turning with a steady 
 look and solemn demeanour to her relations, she 
 took from her person, one by one, all her ornaments, 
 and distributed them as tokens of her love. One 
 jewel only she retained, the tali, or amulet placed 
 round her neck by her deceased husband on the 
 nuptial day ; this she silently pressed to her lips, 
 then separately embracing each of her female relations, 
 and bestowing a farewell look upon the rest, she 
 unbound her hair, which flowed in thick and shining 
 ringlets almost to her feet, gave her right hand to 
 the principal Brahmin, who led her with ceremony 
 three times roimd the pile, and then stopped with 
 her face towards it, upon the side where she was to 
 ascend. Having mounted two or three steps, the 
 beautiful woman stood still, and pressing her hands 
 upon the cold feet of her lifeless husband, she raised 
 them to her forehead, in token of cheerful submis- 
 sion : she then ascended, and crept within the little 
 arbour, seating herself at the head of her lord, her 
 right hand resting upon his head. The torch was 
 placed in my hand, and overwhelmed with com- 
 mingled emotions I fired the pile. Smoke and flame 
 in an instant enveloped the scene, and amid the 
 deafening shouts of the multitude I sank senseless
 
 GHAZIPORE. 77 
 
 Upon the earth. I was quickly restored to sense, but 
 already the devouring element had reduced the 
 funeral pile to a heap of charred and smouldering 
 timber. The assembled Brahmins strewed the ashes 
 around, and with a trembling hand I assisted my 
 father to gather the blackened bones of my beloved 
 uncle and aunt, when having placed them in an 
 earthen vessel we carried them to the Ganges, and 
 with prayer and reverence committed them to the 
 sacred stream. 
 
 " My mother died not many months after the sutti 
 had taken place, having set her affections upon a 
 future state of bliss with Lall Radha ; and my father 
 did not many years survive her. Your slave mamed, 
 and has been blessed with three sons, who are ser- 
 vants to your noble countiymen, whom may God 
 long preserve to distribute peace and justice among 
 us ! I am quickly going down to the Ganges, and 
 until that day of release shall arrive, I am content to 
 live in this humble hut, and guard and decorate this 
 arbour, for which God rewards me by occasional alms 
 from the charitable." 
 
 I ordered my attendant to disburse from my 
 treasury to Baba Kulloo the sum of eight annas 
 (about ten pence), for which unexampled display 
 of generosity my ears were refreshed with abundant 
 streams of the most hyperbolical praise and blessing, 
 so long as I continued within reach of the old man's 
 voice. 
 
 h3
 
 78 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 Among the numerous ruins, both Hindoo and 
 Mussulman, before mentioned, as being worthy the 
 traveller's notice at this place, there appear to be re- 
 liques of all ages. In some instances, where, by the 
 accumulation of material, it is evident that a very 
 lai'ge fabric has stood, even the stone itself is fast 
 mouldering to dust; in other cases buildings are 
 found entire and in excellent preservation. Abutting 
 upon the north side of the bazaar is an elegant mosque 
 of no great antiquity, but deserving notice from the 
 peculiar style of its domes and minarets. The ac- 
 companying plate gives a complete view of the build- 
 ing, which, it is trusted, will be intelligible without 
 the necessity of a long verbal description. It is built 
 of stone and small brick, stuccoed both outside and 
 within, with here and there a carved cornice of coarse 
 marble projecting from the plaster. The form is good, 
 and the effect somewhat grand, but there is none of 
 tlie finish and costly workmanship which is bestowed 
 upon these buildings in the Doab and the countries 
 farther westwai'd. This mosque is kept in repair for 
 the purposes of devotion, several priests being attached 
 to its service ; it is frequented by most of the respect- 
 able Mussulmans in Ghazipore, and is sometimes an 
 object of attraction to men of rank and distinction 
 round about. 
 
 In the rear of the mosque is a large well, down 
 which it is reported that Aurungzebe thrust the 
 wives of fifty young Hindoos, after he had cruelly
 
 w-
 
 GHAZIPORE. 79 
 
 put the youths themselves to the sword. Truly 
 it seems as if every object which we explore in India 
 miLSt have some fearful tale of massacre or bloodshed 
 attached to it, which cannot fail to excite our sympa- 
 thies, and show us the evils of barbarism, the merciless 
 dealings of those whose savage hearts have not been 
 humanized by culture and civilization. It is only 
 wonderful that hi the storm of war and zealous bigotry 
 which not long since raged tlu-oughout Hindostan 
 and deluged the land with blood from north to south, 
 dyeing the rivers purple with human gore, and scat- 
 tering the terrified inhabitants from their homes, to 
 seek refuge in the deep cover of the forest, until reta- 
 liation could be safely enjoyed ; I say it is surprising 
 that any religious buildings of either faith remain at 
 all to this day. 
 
 But it is not a little remarkable that while the 
 Mussulman armies were devastating and subverting 
 every temple and every religious edifice of the Hin- 
 doos, which they could bring under their destroying 
 hands, the Hindoos themselves paid due respect to 
 the mosques and sacred buildings of their enemies, 
 nor were they ever guilty of their mutilation. It is the 
 nature of superstition to be swayed more by fear than 
 by hope, and the credulity of the Hindoo is not more 
 remarkable than his tolerance of, or even his reverence 
 for other religious faiths. A conscientious Hindoo 
 would esteem it a crime to deface a Moslem place 
 of sanctity, or a Christian church, and would anti-
 
 80 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 cipate retribution for such an offence. For the same 
 reason it will be found, that powerful as is the per- 
 sonal antipathy still existing between the two people, 
 the Hindoo is constantly found paying the same 
 tokens of fear and reverence to the Mahommedan 
 saints as to the gods of his own mythology. Con- 
 tinually we behold the half-starved pilgrim bestowing 
 alms upon the Mussulman mendicant, for the sake 
 of his prayers and blessings, and not unfrec^uently 
 will the observant Hindoo pay a devout reverence on 
 passing a Christian church or place of burial. Thus, 
 while the Moslems have polluted, destroyed, and 
 pillaged all the sacred edifices and treasures which 
 they could wrest from the Hindoos, their own mosques 
 and sacerdotal accumulations have remained intact, 
 except in moments of ungovernable excitement and 
 exasperation. In answer to a question which 1 once 
 put to a Hindoo upon this subject, T was told, that 
 should a man of any caste forget his religious obli- 
 gation to hold sacred, and undefiled, and uninjured 
 all places of worship whatsoever, he would have in- 
 curred the heavy displeasure of the gods, who would 
 not accept his offerings of flowers, and would also 
 have averted the favour of the spirits of his fore- 
 fathers, who would reject his libations of holy water 
 until full expiation should have been made for the 
 offence. It is sufficient for the sincere Hindoo that 
 these things are commanded in the Shastras ; it would 
 be sacrilege even in a Brahmin to enquire the reason
 
 GHAZIPORE. 81 
 
 why such observances have been established by holy 
 law. If they have been ordered, they must be infalli- 
 bly wise and salutary, and are therefore performed 
 without hesitation, whether the tendency be proved to 
 be good or evil. 
 
 But while the tolerant Hindoo is careful to avoid a 
 slight or passing offence even to the sacred things of 
 an inimicable faith, he may at the same moment, with 
 an easy conscience, be practising and encouraging the 
 most demoralising and debasing acts ; his inward ease 
 and satisfaction depending on falsehood rather than on 
 truth, on chicanery rather than on justice or innocence; 
 virtuous independence is utterly lost, perjury and every 
 species of corruption may be indulged in, so long as 
 they are not contrary to the exact letter of the law ; the 
 most daring crime, the most profligate oppression may 
 be practised without remorse, without fear of public 
 execration or retribution, if the authority of the 
 Shastras, the Vedans, or the Poorans, can be brought 
 to support it ; at the same time that the most trifling 
 breach of morality will disquiet and render miserable 
 the unfortunate aggressor, if the laws have forbidden 
 it. With the Hindoos, two things are infallible and 
 not to be resisted; the commands of their Shastras, 
 and the commands of their chiefs.
 
 82 
 
 BENARES. 
 
 INFANTICIDE. 
 
 Hear it not ye stars ! 
 And thou pale moon! turn paler at the sound. 
 
 Young. 
 
 The great and holy city of Benares has been too 
 frequently, and too ably described, to require in these 
 pages any detailed account of its character and general 
 appearance. Aurungzebe's towering mosque, out-top- 
 ping the thousand Hindoo temples, the gilded domes, 
 the painted cupolas, and strangely diverse forms of 
 spire and turret, together with the noble flights of 
 steps, the hanging balconies and terraced ghats, have 
 been the favourite theme of each successive traveller 
 who has visited this famous spot. Benai'es is the 
 centre point of Hindoo wealth, of Hindoo traffic, of 
 Hindoo learning and science, of Hindoo display, 
 and of Hindoo superstition, fanaticism, and crime. 
 All these are here made to assume the most imposing 
 forms, and are calculated to astonish and disgust the 
 European, no less than they delude the credulous 
 Hindoo. I remember to have seen in the writings
 
 BENARES. 83 
 
 of some traveller — the Abbe Dubois, I think — a hu- 
 mourous division of the Hindoo population into two 
 classes, the dupes and the impostors; the former 
 embracing all the various castes except one, and the 
 latter, the Brahmins, fonning that exception. Of the 
 scene which Benares exhibits during the Doorga 
 Pooja, and other religious festivals, it is altogether 
 beyond the power of words to convey any just idea. 
 The temples and other buildings, painted and deco- 
 rated with flags for the occasion, appear to stand in 
 a rolling sea of human beings, so dense is the mass 
 of pilgrims which obstructs the narrow streets, and 
 sjjreads itself over every spot of ground where there 
 is room for the foot to rest. The deafening shouts 
 and screams, and blowing of horns, the overpowering 
 heat and sickening eflBuvia can hardly be acceptable 
 to the gods ; they are altogether beyond the ability 
 of mortal endurance ; hundreds of lives are lost in 
 the press, and, unless dispersed by the hand of timely 
 authority, the obnoxious multitude is sure to produce 
 a pestilence within the city. 
 
 As the temples are infinitely various in appearance, 
 so are the innumerable castes and tribes who fre- 
 quent the place; it being not only a rendezvous for 
 pilgi'ims, but the resort of merchants, pedlars, thieves, 
 and mendicants, from all quarters of the East, whose 
 personal appearance and costume are equally dissimi- 
 lar. Let the reader who may wish them enume- 
 rated and described run his eye over a map of Asia,
 
 84 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 and refer to the history of each division, he will 
 readily allow the necessity of omitting such a passage, 
 however picturesque it might be ; unless, indeed, the 
 weighty taste of our ancestors should suddenly return 
 and convert our petit annuals into the profound folios, 
 those "harbours of inexpungable ignorance," of the 
 olden time. 
 
 The ancient name of Benares is Kasi (the mag- 
 nificent), and by this it is still called among the 
 Brahmins, whose history of the place is so authentic 
 and entertaining as to deserve a few lines where an 
 uninteresting statistical account is not allowed even 
 a few words. For a trifling sum of money this 
 history may be obtained viva voce from any Brah- 
 min ; I thus became possessed of it, and being struck 
 with the effect imparted to it by the manner of rela- 
 tion, 1 shall as nearly as possible adhere to the priest's 
 words. 
 
 " It is commonly thought by Christians, Mohamme- 
 dans, and others who are unacquainted with the truth, 
 that this Holy City of Kasi rests upon a portion of 
 this earth, but such an opinion is altogether erroneous, 
 as it has been revealed to us by the gods, and as our 
 senses are at times permitted to discover. The world 
 itself, since the day of its creation, has remained sup- 
 ported upon the thousand heads of the serpent Ananta 
 (eternity), and so it will continue to be upheld until 
 the command of Brahma shall be proclaimed for it to 
 be for ever enveloped in the coils of that interminable
 
 BENARES. 85 
 
 deity. Now, when the judgment takes place, the City 
 of Kasi, with a circumference of seven kos (about ten 
 miles) from its centre, will alone remain firm ; for it 
 rests not upon the heads of Ananta, but is fixed upon 
 the three points of the trident of Siva or Mahadeo, to 
 whose care it will be entrusted. All who now die 
 within its walls are blessed, and those who are found 
 within it on that eventful day shall be blessed a 
 thousand-fold. Ages before the Mahommedan con- 
 quest of this city by Sultan Mohammed, which 
 happened in the eleventh century ; ages before it was 
 made subservient to the Patans, which was a hundred 
 centuries earlier ; ages before Kasi was the second 
 capital of the Hindoo kingdom of Kanaoj, which was 
 the case a hundred centuries before that ; ages before his- 
 tory has any record, Siva built this wonderful city — of 
 the purest gold, and all its temples of precious stones ; 
 but, alas ! the iniquity of man contaminates and de- 
 stroys the beauty of every thing divine ; in consequence 
 of the heinous sins of the people, the precious mate- 
 rial of this sacred place was deteriorated, and eventually 
 changed into stone, by permission of the founder Siva. 
 No sooner had this been effected, than Viasa, that 
 god-like sage, who with infinite wisdom compiled the 
 sacred Vedas, having conceived a jealousy for the 
 renown and splendour of Siva's glorious city, encou_ 
 raged by the fall of its magnificence, came hastily 
 with his followers and a large company of workmen, 
 and encamped upon the bank of the Ganges, imme- 
 I
 
 86 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 diately opposite to Benares ; and then and there 
 proclaimed his design of building a more splendid 
 city than the favourite of the god Siva, which it should 
 eclipse and eventually swallow up, even though the 
 new city should be suspended over the Ganges bed. 
 This loud proclamation Viasa caused to be sounded 
 abroad for the purpose of alluring from Kasi the skil- 
 ful craftsmen and artificers, for the more perfect 
 execution of his design. Siva was not deaf to the 
 news which threatened to desti'oy his capital, but 
 being unwilling openly to oppose the schemes of 
 Viasa, to whom he was otherwise greatly indebted, he 
 commissioned his first-bom son, Genesa, the god of 
 wisdom and artifice, to undermine and subvert the 
 plots of his new enemy. Genesa, having entered the 
 camp of the sage Viasa as an idler and one seeking 
 employment, offered his services as a labourer upon 
 this great undertaking ; but Viasa beholding the ex- 
 ceeding skill and shrewdness of the new comer, took 
 him into his favour, explained to him his designs, and 
 sought his counsel in all diflBculties. Thus Genesa 
 made himself fully acquainted with the intentions of 
 the projector, and finding that nothing short of destruc- 
 tion to Kasi would satisfy his inordinate jealousy, he 
 so per])lexed his master with abstruse and insolvable 
 propositions, that Viasa became displeased, and could 
 not restrain himself from giving vent to his wrath in 
 words of anger and opprobrium. This was the exact 
 purpose of Genesa*s behaviour, he being well persuaded
 
 BENARES. 87 
 
 that ' with the wise man, impatience is the commence- 
 ment of folly.' He therefore continued daily to renew 
 his questions, and sorely vexed his master, until at 
 last, he enquired what reward would be granted by the 
 great Brahma, in the next world, to those who should 
 be bora, or those who should die, within the new citv. 
 To this the venerable Viasa could make no reply ; he 
 was conscious that he could not with truth make any 
 promises in the name of the great Brahma, his design 
 having commenced without his divine command ; and 
 he did not dare to declare that no reward was allotted 
 for such of his people, lest they should desert his 
 newly raised walls, and return to the chosen city of 
 Siva ; so he held his peace. But the cunning Genesa, 
 having thus perplexed the sage, continued during seven 
 days to follow him with importunity for an answer, 
 in presence of the assembled throng ; and this per- 
 tinacious behaviour of the disguised god of wisdom so 
 exasperated Viasa, that at last, in a sudden ebullition 
 of wrath, he declared that after death their souls would 
 transmigrate, and re-appear upon earth in the forms of 
 asses. This so terrified all the people and the work- 
 men, that they immediately deserted the city, nor 
 could any be prevailed upon to complete it. The 
 walls and foundations of the palaces and temples 
 remain to this day upon the opposite bank, and are 
 called the Shahur of Viasa Kasi. Siva, being thus 
 relieved from his presumptuous rival, promised to 
 restore his city to its pristine magnificence if the in- 
 I 2
 
 88 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 habitants would resume their original purity of life, 
 but they did not heed his wishes, nor ceased their evil 
 practices, and thus they have continued to live through 
 successive generations, the countenance of the god 
 Siva being half averted from them. Lately, as it may 
 be seen, the excesses and wickedness of the inhabitants 
 are again increasing, and now the indignant Siva is 
 beginning to display his anger by turning the stone 
 edifices into huts of mud and thatch." 
 
 All this is what has been revealed to the Brahmins 
 by the gods; but being desirous of knowing some- 
 thing about those evidences of the city's independence 
 of this earth, which the Brahmins had assm-ed me 
 were at times disclosed to human perception, I put 
 some questions upon the subject; and for the satis- 
 faction of my curiosity was supplied with the fol- 
 lowing facts. Frequently, when the monsoon opens 
 with a deluge of rain upon the suiTounding country, 
 not a drop falls within the sacred limits of Benares ; 
 while at other times it will shower down abundantly 
 upon the city when the parched soil around is vainly 
 panting for moisture. At times it will occiu", that 
 while the tempest and the hurricane are devastating 
 the whole country round about, sweeping away the 
 villages, uprooting the forests, and levelling the crops ; 
 the holy Kasi will remain quiescent and unhurt. The 
 lightnings will consume whole towns, the thunders 
 shake citadels from their lofty foundations, while Be- 
 nares, upheld from injury, remains intact ; or, when
 
 BtNARES. 89 
 
 the terrible Siva has just cause to inflict punishment, 
 the fire has come down and devoured their temples, 
 while the country around has received no such chas- 
 tisement. And again, which proves beyond a doubt 
 the city's isolated position, the earthquakes, which 
 have undulated through the adjacent plains, upsetting 
 every description of building in their desolating pro- 
 gress, have never been known to approach within the 
 charmed limits of their seven kos ; while the up- 
 heaved land and tottering hills, at no great distance, 
 have given fearful proof of the power at work without ; 
 the history of untold ages records that no symptom of 
 such a convulsion, ever so slight, has been known or 
 felt in Benares. 
 
 It has been computed, that out of the six hundred 
 thousand souls who form the population of Benares, 
 eighty thousand are ofliciating Brahmins attached to 
 the temples, exclusive of the thousands who daily visit 
 it from other parts of the country. It is not, however, 
 to be supposed, that this immense multitude of priests 
 subsist entu'ely upon the charity or the fees of their 
 congregations. It is true that a small tribute is re- 
 ceived by them from all whom they assist by their 
 prayers or their advice, and during festivals, every" 
 devout passenger casts a mite into their treasury; but 
 this of course would be quite insufficient for the support 
 of so vast a swarm of idlers. Many of the temples are 
 endowed with overflowing funds for their support, and 
 to others are attached the revenue of large tracts of 
 I 3
 
 90 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 land. From these stores they are obliged, after pro- 
 viding for their own necessities, to administer assist- 
 ance to the sick or enfeebled among the pilgi'ims, who 
 have no means of their own. What restrictions are 
 placed over these rapacious harpies to secure a punc- 
 tual performance of the duty I know not, but certain 
 it is, that they are not unfreqaently observed to render 
 such goodly services to the distressed ; though judging 
 jfrom what an E uropean may know of their character, 
 I should be of opinion that there exists not a more 
 heartless race of men, or any so utterly unsympathis- 
 ing in the sufferings of their fellow-creatures as these 
 Brahmins. 
 
 The gi-eater part of the temples are dedicated to 
 Siva, or to his son Genesa, these being the deities now 
 especially interested in the welfare of the city, as may 
 be seen by the foregoing history ; but there also appear 
 to be not a few in honour of every other divinity in the 
 Hindoo pantheon. The worship of Siva is performed 
 amidst the grossest obscenities, which are utterly dis- 
 graceful to humanity, but which, being regarded as 
 divine, it is wonderful to state, do not move to shame 
 even the most modest of the female votaries. The 
 insignia of this deity, and the symbols of his presence 
 within the temple, are not to be mentioned. Accord- 
 ing to the doctrine of metempsychosis,, to destroy is 
 only to regenerate in a new form, and therefore Siva, 
 the god of destruction, is worshipped also as the author 
 of life ; and in these contrasted characters, he is at
 
 ilr-
 
 Cyy . -yO^y/fyZA-
 
 BENARES. 91 
 
 once, and in the same temple, an object of praise and 
 of expostulation, for the Hindoos do not scruple to 
 speak their displeasure with any of their deities save 
 Brahma. In the adoration of Genesa, the God of 
 Wisdom, there is no apparent want of decency ; he is 
 always addressed as " that God upon whose glorious 
 forehead the new moon is painted with the froth of 
 Ganga" (the Ganges), and is generally represented sit- 
 ting cross-legged, with four arms and hands, and hav- 
 ing the head and proboscis of an elephant. His temples 
 are profusely ornamented with cai'vings and paintings 
 of the different limbs of this animals but most fre- 
 quently of the head, repetitions of which often form 
 the ornamental designs of the cornices and pillars. At 
 Mhow, in the province of Allahabad, I remember to 
 have seen a small temple of this god, in which all the 
 columns supporting the building are made to represent 
 the hind legs of the elephant, and the top of the roof 
 within is adorned with an imitation of the tusks meet- 
 ing round the proboscises, which depend from the 
 centre, partly of stone, and partly of wood. 
 
 The annexed plate represents the interior of one oi 
 the temples of Genesa at Benares, where all the capi- 
 tals of the pillars are ^vrought into monstrous heads 
 of a gigantic size, carved in red sandstone, of which 
 material the entire temple is constructed. All the 
 ornaments have been greatly defaced, and the principal 
 image of the god himself has evidently been the chief 
 object of mutilation. The odium of these dilapida-
 
 92 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 tions rests with the bigoted followers of Mohummed, 
 who took possession of Benares during the reign of 
 Aurungzebe, and left marks of their zealous fury 
 upon all the sacred buildings. 
 
 The revolting crime of infanticide was at one time 
 carried to a great height in Benares and the adjacent 
 districts ; and there can be little doubt, by the account 
 of the Mussulmen, that it is still occasionally practised, 
 in defiance of the active measures for its prevention 
 adopted by the government. The police of course deny 
 this statement, but they have no access to the zenanas 
 and private apartments of the Rajas and petty princes, 
 and therefore can have no assurance of its total discon- 
 tinuance. It is true that numerous chiefs, among whom 
 the daughters were formerly destroyed immediately 
 after birth, have in many instances reared them, in 
 compliance with their agi'eement with the British go- 
 vernment ; but in nearly all these families the female 
 children form but a very few in comparison with the 
 males, which alone is sufficient gi'ound for suspicion. 
 The great supporters of this iniquitous practice were 
 formerly the Rajhpoots, the Rajhkomars, and the 
 Rajhvansis, among whom a single female infant was 
 never pennitted to exist, nor did they consider their 
 desti'uction as an act of sin or cruelty, though I am 
 unable to believe, as many have affirmed, that they 
 regarded the sacrifice as an acceptable offering to the 
 gods. It appears rather to have originated in conve- 
 nience, on account of the ruinous expense attending
 
 BENARES. 93 
 
 their marriage, and to have been practised without fear 
 of offence to the deities, for their belief is, that the 
 souls of those daughters who were thus destroyed were 
 eventually returned to them in the persons of sons; and 
 when this did not appear to be borne out by the birth 
 of a male child, it only followed that Siva was dis- 
 pleased, and conciliation was resorted to, until a son 
 should really be born to them. In these cases it was 
 usual to seek propitiation by placing the next female 
 infant in the hands of the Brahmins, to be solemnly 
 sacrificed in the temple of Genesa, whereby that god 
 might be moved to compassion for the babe, and be 
 induced to intercede with Siva for the future birth of 
 male children to the parents. It is easy to perceive 
 whence this delusion had its commencement, since a 
 handsome douceur to the immolating priests was an 
 indispensable part of the ceremony, which in all re- 
 spects differed from the method of destruction privately 
 used. In the latter place the operation was performed 
 with very little form or expense, by what the Hindoos 
 call drinking milk. No sooner had the sex of the 
 infant been ascertained, than a cauldron of warm milk 
 was brought into the apartment where the mother lay, 
 and after prayers for the child's return in the form of a 
 son, the little innocent was immersed in the milk, and 
 held down until life became extinct, and then it was 
 carried to the Ganges and thrown into the stream. 
 When, however, the deed was committed to the Brah- 
 mins to be executed by way of sacrifice to Genesa, the
 
 94 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 poor babe was canied to the temple, and, being laid 
 upon its back, was, after certain diabolical ceremonies, 
 destroyed by the club of the inhuman fakhir. This, 
 however, it is but fair to state, was related to me by a 
 Mussulman, w^ho will never lose an opportunity of 
 placing the religious conduct of the Hindoos in the 
 most odious light possible. Among themselves, the 
 very word Hindoo has become a word of abuse and op- 
 probrium. The Mussulman is equally careful to con- 
 ceal that there are certain heretical tribes of his own 
 })eople who, through motives of indolence and self- 
 interest, have been led to follow this barbarous custom 
 of infanticide, which is, by the doctrines of Moham- 
 medan law, denounced as a foul stain upon humanity, 
 and prohibited under the most severe penalties both 
 temporal and eteraal. Very many instances of Mus- 
 sulman families, however, are upon record, in which it 
 has been openly practised, and the only explanation 
 assigned is proudly aflEirmed to be, that their daughters 
 could not be allied to any princes in the world without 
 disgrace. Such are among the Jhats, the Mehwattis, 
 and the Scusniwals, the former chiefs of Bhurtpore. 
 About the time that the British government first 
 began to take active measures for the suppression of 
 this most inhuman crime, there was little difficulty in 
 obtaining the concurrence in its abolition of nearly all 
 those who practised it ; not in consequence of any con- 
 viction of its enonnity, but for the sake of continuing 
 in amity with our power. Among others, it had been
 
 EEXARES. 90 
 
 found necessary to obtain from the Jahijas a solemn 
 bond of agreement to abandon this inhuman custom. 
 Now, in compliance with his promise, the Jahrja of 
 Rajh-Kotti, being apprised that his wife was about 
 to be confined, G^ave orders that if the infant should 
 prove to be a female it should be preserved ; and im- 
 patient of suspense, he collected a band of his follow- 
 ers, and went forth upon a hunting excursion, having 
 fully persuaded himself that his virtuous adherence to 
 his oath would be rewarded by the gift of a son, it 
 being past belief that he should ever be so far afflicted 
 as to be under the necessity of bringing up a daughter. 
 Having remained absent from home several days, he 
 returned to his vvife, with some anxiety as to the result 
 of the birth ; and when he was infoniied that the child 
 was a daughter, and had been suffered to live, and had 
 been nurtured by the mother in compliance with his 
 commands, his fury became ungovernable, and with 
 blasphemous and idle curses against the whole pan- 
 theon of Hindooism, he gave orders for the immediate 
 massacre of both the mother and child. When the 
 virulence of his wrath was somewhat assuaged, the life 
 of the mother was spared at the intercession of the 
 Jahrja's eldest son ; but no prayers or remonstrances 
 could induce him to spare that of the infant, although 
 according to their own observances, it was extreme 
 cruelty and disgrace to destroy the child, if suffered to 
 live even a few hours after birth. In compliance with 
 the monster's orders, the innocent babe was torn from
 
 96 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 its mothers bosom, and strangled in her sight. The 
 circumstance was thus reported to the British authori- 
 ties, who immediately an-ested the Jahija and brought 
 him to trial. The retribution of the law was however 
 averted by the devoted wife, who gave such evidence as 
 tended to show that the child had died a natural death, 
 but in consequence of contradictory evidence from 
 other witnesses, a trial by ordeal, according to ancient 
 Hindoo usage, was permitted, and the good fortune of 
 the Jahrja acquitted him. 
 
 The common reasons assigned for the destruction 
 of the female offspring is the fear of dishonour, and 
 the extravagant outlay necessarily incurred in their 
 marriage : there is no doubt that pride, avarice, and 
 indolence were the true authors and supporters of infan- 
 ticide ; in reality it has been shown, that it forms no 
 part of the Hindoo religion, although it has been 
 foimd convenient to induce such a belief, and the 
 artful Brahmins themselves may have favoured it. 
 The male offspring are never sacrificed ; although 
 there exists in Hindoo history — perhaps I should 
 rather say in Hindoo fable — a very curious account 
 of a race of people exactly resembling, in all their 
 peculiarities, the Amazons of the Greeks. They are 
 said to have inhabited the district of Marawa, upon 
 the coast immediately opposite to the island of Ceylon, 
 and were named Stri-Raja, or women-princes ; they 
 destroyed all their male children directly after birth, 
 and excluded all men from their society and their
 
 BENARES. 97 
 
 dominions, beholding only such as were brought to 
 them by accident or adventure, and not pei-mittino- 
 even these to dwell more than a few days among 
 them. Not only is this story preserved in several 
 works both Mahommedan and Hindoo, but sculptures 
 of the Amazon armed and deprived of the right 
 breast are found in various parts of India. It is 
 quite evident that the two stories have the same origin, 
 and whether we refer the legend to the Euxine 
 and Caspian seas upon the relation of Justin and 
 Diodoms, or whether we take it from the adventures 
 of Kama Rupa, we cannot but suppose that it must 
 have arisen from the fact of some class of persons 
 habitually destroying their male children. It may 
 be worthy of remark that in Marawa at this day 
 there is a race of people called Kalaris, robbers 
 by birth and education, with whom the women 
 are regarded as the heads of families, enjoying an 
 extraordinary authority over the men, and being 
 esteemed the lawful partner of the brother, father, 
 uncles, and other relations of the husband, as much 
 as of the husband himself. 
 
 I remember to have been particularly struck with 
 the contrast which is observable between the bearing 
 of the Brahmin and that of the other castes of Hin- 
 doos towards Europeans, in the gi-eat city of Benares. 
 The fulsome adulation and abject servility of the 
 latter recall a passage of Rousseau a d'Alembert; 
 " Les oiitrager par ces evidens mensonges, n'est ce pas 
 
 K
 
 98 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 leur declarer assez netteinent qu'on ne trouve au- 
 cune verite obligeante a leur dire ? " serving at the 
 same time to render more obvious that supercilious 
 and insolent caniage of the Brahmins which only 
 dares to display itself in the very centre of their 
 strength, surrounded with thousands of their fellows 
 to keep them in countenance. It is seldom seen 
 in Calcutta or at stations where themselves are few 
 and the English supported; it is only when the 
 solitary European without state or attendants is sur- 
 rounded by whole troops of them that they have spirit 
 to display their impatient rancour, even in their looks ; 
 and this they have lately learned to suppress, having 
 been taught by a few lessons how gi'eat odds the 
 nervous ann and stout courage of the European 
 will encounter, rather than brook even a contemptuous 
 look. Still, if not openly insulting, their demeanour 
 forms a marked contrast to that of the submissive 
 Soodra, with whom patience, endurance, and humility 
 are cardinal virtues. Lest I should give an eiToneous 
 impression to those who are not versed in the distinc- 
 tions of the different castes, I should mention, that 
 all the Brahmins are not necessarily priests, although 
 the priests must be Brahmins. Of the various classes 
 o^ jog is andfakhirs whose names figure away, to the 
 sad perplexity of the general reader, in most Indian 
 literature, I have thought it expedient to particularize 
 as little as possible, for the sake of perspicuity. 
 Should the reader be inclined to accuse me of dwell-
 
 BENARES. 99 
 
 ing too greatly upon the horrible throughout this des- 
 cription, I beg to apologize and to offer my explanation 
 in the following words of the gi'eat Burke. " There 
 is no spectacle we so eagerly pursue as that of some 
 uncommon and gTievous calamity; so that whether 
 the misfortune is before our eyes, or whether we are 
 turned back to it in history, it always touches with 
 delight. This is not an unmixed delight, but blended 
 with no small uneasiness. The delight we have in 
 such things hinders us from shunning scenes of misery ; 
 and the pain we feel prompts us to relieve ourselves 
 in relieving those who suffer." 
 
 I might have detailed to the tender-hearted reader 
 various cruel and wanton methods of infanticide 
 practised in other parts of India. For instance, it 
 has been ascertained that in some districts, the in- 
 human parents have buried their living children up 
 to the throat in the earth, leaving the head exposed 
 to the attacks of the wild beasts and birds of prey ; 
 others have been known to bind the poor innocents 
 by the feet to the branch of a tree, there abandoning 
 them to the most homble of deaths ; in some places 
 it has been the practice to hurl them headlong from 
 a height into the waters of a river sacred to one or 
 other of their unholy gods. But these most unnatural 
 atrocities, it is to be hoped, have only been per])e- 
 trated, when the treacherous dealings of the priesthood 
 have so powerfully wrought upon the suj^erstitious 
 fears of the natives as altogether to overwhelm the 
 k2
 
 100 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 tide of their parental affections. A somewhat less 
 revolting custom, since a touch of humanity appears 
 still to exist in the misguided parent, is that of 
 setting the infant adrift upon the water in a little ark, 
 such as is described in the Holy Scriptures as the 
 refuge of the infant Moses during the infanticide 
 of the males commanded by Phai'oah. The author 
 feels confident that he need make no apology to his 
 readers for displacing a few of his prosaic j^ages in 
 order to give room to the following stanzas, wTitten 
 by a young lady. He considers them too full of 
 true description to require a word of comment, and 
 as to their poetic merit, let the reader judge. 
 
 INFANTICIDE. 
 
 How beautiful is morn. 
 Ere up the curving arch of yon blue sky 
 The golden chariot of the sun mounts high. 
 
 And panting Nature sinks o'erborne. 
 As captive warriors droop and die 
 Beneath some conqueror's car of victory ! 
 
 Lo ! from the grateful shade 
 
 By spreading tamarinds and rich mango made. 
 
 The snowy temple its light dome upreareth j 
 "While scattered here and there. 
 As though appealing to its guardian care, 
 
 The modest Hindoo hut appeareth. 
 
 Near to the sacred fane, 
 
 O'ershadowed by the hanians Unked chain
 
 INFANTICIDE. 101 
 
 Of leafy boughs unending, 
 
 Upshooting, spreading, and descending, 
 
 A lakelet, small and clear, 
 
 Reflects the emerald-tinted atmosphere. 
 Around the dark brown trunks gay blossoms creep . 
 From twig to twig the lively squirrels leap 5 
 Birds of gay plumage and sweet song 
 The laden branches throng ; 
 And stately peacocks through the long grass move : 
 
 Already to their light and graceful toils, 
 The women gather 'neath the fragrant grove. 
 Spinning the white line from the fleecy spoils 
 Of yon rich fields which, far away, 
 Lie basking in the opening day. 
 All golden as the beams which o'er them play. 
 Apart from all — the silver lake beside. 
 Which mirroreth her charms with eager pride. 
 What form appears, as motionless and fair. 
 As marble image wrought by chisel rarcj 
 Graceful as the areca, with long hair 
 Entwined by gems and flowers, and loosely flung 
 
 Back from the white and polished brow, which bears 
 Impress of sorrow, keen and gathering cares. 
 Unmeet for one so lovely and so young. 
 Her silken robe of ample fold. 
 
 Scarce shows the fairy foot and ancle slender, 
 Circled by glittering stones and ring of gold , 
 
 For earth and sea their spoils surrender, 
 To deck the wife of Menon bold. 
 The wealthy and well-bom. 
 Across her bosom, closely drawn, 
 
 k3
 
 102 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 Descends her veil in shining folds, 
 And something to her heart she holds, 
 Which often with convulsive clasp, 
 
 She presses close, and closer still : 
 Her right hand's rose-tipped fingers grasp 
 
 A basket, framed with care and skill, 
 Of sacred tulsi wood, replete 
 With tubej'ose, and mogri sweet. 
 The champa shedding forth perfume, 
 The rich mahdavi's crimson bloom. 
 And amra heading Camdeo's dart. 
 To deal a wound that leaves no smart. 
 
 As to the breezes cool 
 The pensile sprays and verdurous foliage shiver. 
 Their painted brethren as in mockery quiver, 
 
 Beneath the glassy surface of the pool : 
 And there, its glossy leaves around it closing. 
 The silver lotos floats reposing. 
 " Even thus, even thus," — passed through poor Zeida's 
 
 breast — 
 ** I might have cradled thee to rest. 
 
 Calm as the lily on that pearly water j 
 As safe from storms, as beautiful, as blest ; 
 
 Woe, woe is me! my daughter ! O ! my daughter!" 
 ****** 
 
 Vainly she lingers there, 
 
 Love wrestling with despair. 
 
 Ere through the scorching noon -tide air 
 
 The tyrant sun shall proudly ride 
 Her sacrifice must be complete ; 
 And she, returning with reluctant feet 
 
 Again may sit by Menon's side,
 
 INFANTICIDE. 103 
 
 And find her consolation, if she can, 
 
 In the caress bestowed by flattered pride, 
 Which oft is deemed and christened love in man. 
 For beautiful is Zeida, and her lord 
 Knows well to prize and guard so fair a gem — 
 A richer never shone in Delhi's hoard — 
 But can he love her, and condemn 
 
 That young heart to such agony, 
 As now each pulse is torturing ? 
 
 O ! could he but that infant see 
 From its brief slumber just awaking, 
 Still pillowed on that bosom aching. 
 Stretching its tiny hands that cling 
 
 To the soft neck, as in appeal 
 For love, for pity, for protection, 
 
 Even his proud soul remorse must feel; 
 He could not crush that young affection. 
 
 Nor to the monsters of the flood 
 His helpless first-born child resign, 
 
 Though one of his pure flowing blood 
 Seeks none but sons to grace his line. 
 
 *♦*♦** 
 The river rusheth full and strong, 
 
 A mighty and majestic stream; — 
 Yon Chupra it hath swept along. 
 
 Stifling the dying scream 
 Of the wretch that in his lone despair 
 Waited death's rude summons there. 
 Where the tall reeds thickly grow. 
 Nodding slowly to and fro, 
 Plunges the lordly buffalo j
 
 104 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 And near him in close ambuscade 
 The subtle crocodile is laid; 
 Like a trunk, bare, leafless, brown, 
 By the tempest shock o'erthrown. 
 Moveless on the bank he lies 
 With glittering and watchful eyes. 
 Demon of cruelty and fear, 
 Alas! thy prey is near. 
 
 **♦**'« 
 Zeida hath laid her basket down. 
 
 Her oiFering to the sacred river ; 
 No tears even yet her eye doth own. 
 
 But every feeble Hmb doth quiver; 
 And sobs, each like a dying gasp. 
 
 Burst from that agonized breast, 
 To which, with strong and straining clasp. 
 
 The hapless babe is pressed. 
 A smile across its features plays 
 
 Unconsciously — and now another. 
 Answering the miserable gaze 
 
 Of that most wretched mother. 
 
 A thrill of anguish shook her frame. 
 
 Then, a brief frenzy on her came. 
 
 The thin veil from her head she tore. 
 And the poor infant round and round 
 In the soft gauzy folds she wound. 
 
 That soon its struggles might be o'er. 
 
 And with quick steps, though each one sank, 
 
 In the green oozy river bank.
 
 INFANTICIDE. 105 
 
 Down among the reeds she cower' d. 
 
 There gently laid the fated child. 
 
 And o'er it, from her basket, piled 
 Green leaves and blossoms shower'd. 
 Then, pressing both hands to her head, 
 
 As if in agony of fear 
 
 Its dying shriek to hear. 
 Nerved by despair, with frenzied speed she fled.
 
 106 
 
 ETTAI AH. 
 
 Modern authors, both the travelled and the merely 
 sj^eculative, who have wiitten to illustrate the Oriental 
 world, have shown us that, marked as is the dissimili- 
 tude between the nations of Europe and of Asia in 
 their habits of life, their customs, their religions, 
 forms, complexion, and costume, they are still more 
 strikingly contrasted in their mental peculiarities and 
 distinct habits of thought. It is indeed wonderful to 
 note the unequal estimation with which the minds of 
 millions collectively, in one and the other quarters of 
 the globe, will mutually regard the same object : and 
 perhaps under no circumstances is this more obviously 
 displayed than in the importance which each respec- 
 tively attaches to events of the past and of the future. 
 To the European in youth, or in the prime of life, 
 there is no pleasure in retrospection, however sweet, 
 that can equal those bright and glorious heart-stirring 
 visions of the future which are the oifspring of a san-
 
 ETTAIAH. 107 
 
 guine and ambitious temperament ; while, to the less 
 ardent people of the tropics, there exists not in the 
 prospective any measure of delight so full as the calm 
 enjoyment of dreamy recollection ; the most glowing 
 promise will often fail to excite, when a glimpse of life 
 by-gone will immediately engi'oss all the faculties. In 
 Europe every active mind is bent upon improvement, 
 the energies are devoted to the aggrandisement of the 
 present, or are absorbed in schemes to foretell and 
 meet the exigencies of the future; few indeed devote 
 their time to constant reflection on the past; and 
 when by chance they are called upon to rehearse the 
 events of former days, their best efforts only prove 
 how necessary practice is to excellence. The con- 
 templative Asiatic will at a moment's notice assem- 
 ble and renew the faded images of times long 
 past away, and, without effort, paint his picture 
 in such life-like form and colour as to present his 
 audience with a complete reflection of the scene 
 itself. His powers, too, are quickened by being con- 
 stantly in request, for all Oriental families are ad- 
 dicted to narration, and seldom close the day without 
 one or other reciting some passage from the records of 
 their own lives or the traditions of their forefathers. 
 For the gentle reader's sake I heartily wish I possessed 
 the power of penning my descriptions, or of reciting 
 my legends, with one half the graphic spirit and effect 
 which would be infused into them by these eloquent 
 though unlettered people. With a hope of preserving
 
 108 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 as much as possible of the freshness and vigour of the 
 original, I lost no opportunity while I was in India 
 of making memoranda of all the tales, and histori- 
 cal or other information which I gathered from the 
 natives, as nearly as possible in their words. For my 
 own amusement, indeed, I used frequently to note 
 down whole dialogues which I had enjoyed with these 
 story-telling people, and they now serve to caiTy my 
 memory back to the scene with a truth and nicety 
 which I am confident I could not otherwise have re- 
 tained. Wherever I am able to do so, I prefer giving 
 the reader the benefit of these living pictures, in prefer- 
 ence to dull recital of my own, and in illustration of the 
 present subject I think I shall need no apology for leav- 
 ing my narration ahnost entirely in the mouth of my 
 informant. It will however be first necessary for me 
 to clear the stage, to set up my scene, to declare the 
 time and place, and to explain the entrees and exits ; 
 this shall be done in as few words as maybe. 
 
 During a long and tedious voyage down the river 
 Jumna, at a season when the navigation of that river is 
 always difficult and somewhat hazardous, I found my 
 patience rapidly giving way under the influence of a 
 contrary breeze, and shoal waters traversed in all di- 
 rections with sunken rocks. The scenery around me 
 was wild in the extreme. On either side of its nar- 
 row bed the pent up stream was shut in with rough 
 percipitous cliffs, in many places overhanging with 
 perilous menace my nutshell of a skiff". These tower-
 
 ETTAIAH. 109 
 
 ing banks are partially clothed with ragged jungle 
 and dwarf-trees of a most mis-shapen gi'owth ; in 
 places they are intersected with deep and dark ravines, 
 which are the impenetrable hiding-places of thugs, 
 dukhaits, and other classes of banditti; and also of 
 tigers, leopards, hyaenas, wolves, and a host of man's 
 natural enemies. The day had been sullen and over- 
 cast, and my hmnour accorded with the scene. I had 
 lounged all day upon the roof of my boat, in idle mood, 
 now gazing on the accumulating clouds, now striving 
 to find excitement in the exploits recorded in the pages 
 of a veteran and not-a-little-mutilated sixpenny pam- 
 phlet, entitled " The Bandit's Bride ;" but from want 
 of taste or from heartless misanthropy I found myself 
 heartily well disposed to strangle the fair lady for her 
 treachery, and to hang all the outlaws for their crimes. 
 
 " Manji," said I, somewhat impatiently, to the boat's 
 captain; " Mangi, lower that abominable top-sail; 
 you have overmasted your miserable boat, and when the 
 squall breaks we shall be capsized." " Pardon your 
 slave, most noble Sir," replied the man, with a pro- 
 found reverence, " there will be no storm this evening, 
 and I am desirous of sho\Wng your greatness the far- 
 famed town of Ettaiah before night falls. There will 
 be no wind." 
 
 " Lower the topsail, Sirrah ! " Down came the 
 canvass upon deck. I turned my eye to windward ; 
 the horizon had become beautifully bright, and a fresh 
 breeze was fast hurrying away the heavy clouds. In 
 
 L
 
 110 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 a few seconds, as if by a magic spell, the whole aspect 
 of nature was transformed. A brilliant flood of sun- 
 shine was spread across the scene ; the cliffs rose still 
 higher and more majestically over our heads ; the deep 
 leaden waters were converted into a rippled flood of 
 gold ; and as our canvass filled to the favouring breeze, 
 my spirits regained their wonted elasticity. 
 
 " Make all sail, you Manji; and here, tell me, what 
 are the glittering buildings which so thickly crown 
 yonder cliffs ? " 
 
 " That place. Sir, is the famed city of Ettaiah, for- 
 merly the capital of this district. It is of very great 
 antiquity, and strange tales are told of its ancient inha- 
 bitants. Your honour will find it worthy of a day's 
 tarry." 
 
 I instantly ordered out my little wherry, and taking 
 four oars on board, I had rounded the last reach just as 
 the sun touched the horizon. The scene was grand 
 indeed. Buildings of all dates and ages — the ancient 
 and the modern, the ruined and the still unfinished, 
 were heaped together in strange confusion, and were 
 spread over about twenty hills to the height of eighty 
 or a hundred feet above the water-mark. 
 
 I landed upon one of the principal ghats, and throw- 
 ing my gun over my shoulder, I sti'oUed from ruin to 
 ruin, and fi'om street to street, until at last, upon a 
 flight of newly-built steps leading to the water, I des- 
 cried an aged Brahmin performing his evening worship 
 with his face turned towards the still glowing west.
 
 ETTAIAH. Ill 
 
 " Peace, my Son/' said I to the old man, who was 
 grey enough for my grandfather, " you appear to be en- 
 joying the freshness of the evening breeze. These are 
 handsome ghats ; your town appears to be rising anew 
 from its dusty ruins. Are there any relics within par- 
 ticularly worthy of the inspection of a foreigner ? " 
 
 '' Protector of the poor, you may well say that the 
 air is cool ; but how can I be enjoying it ? You are 
 from the west, and love these chilly winds ; you are 
 young, and the piercing air only braces your frame. 
 Alas ! behold me ; youth and activity have flown, and 
 I have nothing wherewith to preserve vital warmth in 
 my frame but this tattered blanket, which is a poor 
 substitute for vigour and warm blood : but it has 
 pleased God to inspire me with infinite fortitude ; or 
 perhaps I may say that I have myself acquired it, 
 during a long life of hardship and exposure." 
 
 " Why, my friend, you must indeed be a chilly 
 mortal ; the air is yet glowing with the noon's heat." 
 
 " Great Sir, you were pleased to enquire of your 
 slave if there be any thing worth seeing in our city. 
 Why do you apply to me about such toys as these ? 
 Such trifles I regard not ; I am an aged man, and now" 
 mine eyes are incessantly turned towards Heaven. If 
 there has ever been any thing in our land worth covet- 
 ing, you English gentlemen have stripped us of it ; 
 you have sacked our coffers, and have glutted your- 
 selves with our treasure." 
 
 " Come, come, my Son, you judge us harshly: we 
 l2
 
 112 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 have conquered your land but to relieve it from the 
 oppression of tyrants; and have taken charge of your 
 wealth only to disburse it for your advantage; and 
 tbose who evince a gi'ateful sense of our goodness, by 
 endeavouring to serve us to the best of their power, 
 invariably receive some reward at our hands. — Pray 
 what is this singular ruin which surmounts the hill 
 above us ? " 
 
 *' That ! 'tis Khoob-soorut's palace : all persons know 
 the story." 
 
 *' No, I am altogether ignorant of the history of your 
 town ; but my surdar has orders to supply with three 
 days' subsidy any man who adds a good story to my 
 collection." 
 
 " Chosen of Heaven, will it please you to bestow a 
 few minutes' patience while I relate to you the legend 
 of the ruined palace which attracts your attention : 
 there must be few indeed who can tell the tale with 
 better effect than myself; though I do not say this with 
 any wish to persuade you that my story will be worth 
 four days' supply, where others have received three. 
 Be pleased, Sir, to recline upon that white cloth while 
 I rehearse my favourite 
 
 " STORY OF BUDDUNAUT AND KHOOB-SOORUT, 
 
 which all who listen to declare to be very excellent. 
 Every soul in this town knows it by heai't, but there is 
 not one who can recite it like myself ; and those who
 
 -^
 
 ETTAIAH. 113 
 
 have heard my version fifty times over only become the 
 more desirous of hearing it again. 
 
 " In days long past what city was so gi'eat and glo- 
 rious as Ettaiah, — her inhabitants, lofty in stature and 
 beautiful in form, stood among their fellow men as the 
 sun in his strength compared with the twinkling stars 
 of heaven. But evil is strong upon earth, and the 
 teiTible goddess Kali, working with powerful and ma- 
 licious influence in the hearts of men, had gi'adually 
 reduced the proud city to degradation and misery. 
 Tmth, justice, industiy, domestic peace, and pubhc 
 virtue passed away, like the vernal glories of plain and 
 forest after the clouds of the blue locust have rested 
 upon them. Arts and manufactures were disregarded; 
 sloth and intemperance had paralysed every hand, 
 while poverty and famine roved throughout the city as 
 fierce as paria dogs howling for their prev. The con- 
 trol of law had long ceased in Ettaiah; provisions, 
 money, almost all the necessaries of life, were obtained 
 by plunder alone, and as long as any stores remained, 
 they were at the disposal of every strong arm and fero- 
 cious spirit who could demand his portion from the 
 general stock, or wrench it from the gi'asp of a weaker 
 neighbour. When all was gone, the lawless robbers 
 set forth to levy new contributions, lying in wait for 
 luckless travellers in the gloomy ravines that intersect 
 the lofty banks of the Jumna, greedy and watchful as 
 the crocodile lurking in the reedy shallows below them ; 
 or rushing on some unprotected village, they robbed 
 l3
 
 114 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 the husbandman of his newly-garnered harvest, the 
 cottage of its frugal stores, and carrying off every 
 portable article of value, left wailing and despair, per- 
 chance blood and death, behind. 
 
 " The triumph of Kali was now obtained — all the 
 inhabitants of the fallen city had declared themselves 
 her worshippers; evil reigned supreme in Ettaiah, 
 and the very name of the city was held thrice 
 accursed — the knife had reached the very bone. 
 
 " Now, the god Krishna, the pure spirit of benevo- 
 lence, cast his eyes of compassion upon the desolation 
 and misery of this once magnificent city, and resolved 
 by the exercise of his beneficent influence to raise up 
 the fallen from her shame, and set the crown of 
 rejoicing once more upon her head. But in vain he 
 struggled against the wicked passions of men, in- 
 flamed by long indulgence and in close alliance with 
 the spirits of evil, until at last he was forced to em- 
 ploy stratagem to effect his good purpose in the 
 refonnation of Ettaiah. And first he sent a wasting 
 and temble pestilence among the people, as a chas- 
 tisement for their sins, and that any yet lingering 
 principle of good might be awakened in their hearts, 
 even as we crush the khusha gi-ass to draw forth its 
 richest perfume. Lamentation and weeping, teiTor 
 and despair, now filled the streets of the accursed 
 city ; mothers saw their infants expire in their arms, 
 and children yet more wTetched, houseless and unpro- 
 tected, shrunk from the livid coi^Dses of their stricken
 
 ETTAIAH. 115 
 
 parents. The warrior in the pride of his iron-knit 
 frame, the young man, strong-limbed and reckless 
 of danger, fell by the venomed aiTow that smiteth at 
 noon-day; nor safer were the old men cowering in 
 their desolate homes, nor the damsel on her silken 
 couch, for the destroyer passed by with the sword 
 of vengeance, mowing do\ra sti-ength and weakness, 
 beauty and decrepitude. Woe, woe, to Ettaiah and 
 her sinful inhabitants 1 
 
 '' The only person in the city to whose authority the 
 lawless populace in some degi'ee submitted, was the 
 young chief, Buddunaut, chosen by his fellow citizens 
 to preside over their councils, for his undoubtable 
 courage, great personal beauty, and superior wisdom. 
 Into the heart of this young mler, Krishna instilled 
 a deep and thrilling conviction of the cause of the 
 fearful calamity now visiting his capital, and soon the 
 thoughts of the crimes and sufferings of his people 
 haunted his couch with all hideous sounds and shapes 
 throughout the night, and by day seemed to rise 
 above and around him like a sulphurous cloud, shut- 
 ting out the blessed light of heaven, and ready to 
 burst in thunders upon his head. 
 
 " The agony of his mind grew beyond endurance, 
 and freshly endued with wise and virtuous resolu- 
 tion by the beneficent Krishna, Buddunaut assembled 
 the people, reproached them with their accumulated 
 crimes, and declared the cause of the pestilence now 
 raging amongst them. By persuasions, exhortations,
 
 116 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 and the aid of Krishna, he won over to his side the 
 most powerful and influential of the citizens, and 
 then proceeded to enact salutary and severe laws for 
 the restraint and punishment of vice. His efforts 
 were successful. Good slowly, but surely, drove evil 
 from her stronghold, the pestilence abated, peace and 
 order once more reigned in the city, — penitents 
 thronged the long deserted temples, and Ettaiah was 
 well nigh reclaimed. But the mahcious Kali, the 
 unrelenting enemy of man, yielded not so easily her 
 prey; and hopeless of the effects of open force, she 
 resolved to foil the benevolent purpose of Krishna, 
 by a counter stratagem. To tempt is far easier than 
 to compel, and the subtle goddess exerted all her art 
 in framing a woman of such surpassing beauty, that 
 all w^hich poets have sung, or lovers dreamed, should 
 seem faded and dull in comparison with her matchless 
 charms, that the eyes of those who gazed upon her 
 should be henceforth insensible to all other loveUness 
 earth could display, and men become as clay in her 
 hands. 
 
 " On this enchantress, having first instilled a due 
 portion of her own vindictive spirit, and fully in- 
 structed her in her mission of evil. Kali bestowed 
 the power of invoking effective curses on all who pro- 
 voked her wrath, or thwarted the will of her terrible 
 patroness. 
 
 " Turn now, Bahddoor Sahib, and behold those ruins 
 on the lofty hills behind us — they are those of a mag-
 
 ETTAIAH. 117 
 
 nificent palace, which, even in the days we speak of 
 had fallen to decay, and the name of its first founder 
 oblivion had blotted from the book of the past. Du- 
 ring the late awful pestilence it had been used as a la- 
 zaretto, and was studiously shunned by all the citizens 
 of Ettaiah, as a sad memoiial of the sufierings they 
 had endured. The damp mists of death seemed to cling 
 around its mouldering walls, the wailings of despair to 
 fill the breezes that swept through its lonely courts, 
 and the wayfarer, homeward bound, turned his eyes 
 from the broken outlines of walls and towers cut- 
 ting the sapphire sky, and praised the god Krishna 
 that it was not with Ettaiah as in her evil days. 
 
 " But lo ! in the solemn stillness of night, when all 
 within the city were locked in repose, the wicked 
 Kali descended in the form of an enonnous vampire, 
 and deposited Khoob-soorut (the beautiful) in one 
 ofi the vast chambers of the palace. — Then by her 
 magic art she recalled into existence all the ancient 
 splendours of the abode, and surrounded the spen, 
 destined to effect the destruction of Ettaiah, with 
 eveiy species of luxury and magnificence that might 
 aid her own unrivalled beauty in fascinating the 
 minds of men, and seducing them again to the 
 worship of evil. 
 
 " The sun arose, and his crimsoned beams illumined 
 the snow white domes and glittering cupolas of the 
 restored palace; and, from the gates of Ettaiah, poured 
 forth an eager crowd to gaze and wonder. Nearer
 
 118 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 aiid nearer they pressed, even to the lofty brazen 
 gates, through whose richly wrought lattice -work 
 glimpses were gained of gardens rivaling the famed 
 paradise of Ahmedabad, of silver fountains, amid beds 
 of roses, of stately trees staiTed with gorgeous blos- 
 soms, through which the soft winds careered joy- 
 fully, filling the atmosphere with perfume ; while 
 ever and anon clouds of birds, glittering like winged 
 gems rose into the air, and strains of divine music 
 came faintly and at intervals on the ear. 
 
 '' All gazed and marvelled, and ardently desired to 
 explore the secrets of the mysterious abode, and revel 
 in its garden of delights, but no small degree of 
 courage was required to essay this bold though tempt- 
 ing adventure. The citizens, young and old, 
 gathered in knots, and held sage and long discussions 
 on the matter ; but a superstitious awe possessed all 
 their hearts, and throughout seven days only curious 
 glances and anxious wishes were directed towards 
 the palace of Khoob-soorut. 
 
 " At length a youth named Bhudroo, of noble birth 
 and gallant spirit, hoping to win both wealth and 
 fame if he accomplished the adventure, stole from 
 his home at the first peep of dawn and ascended the 
 hill crowned by the palace. The brazen gates un- 
 folded at his approach, and stepping over the threshold 
 he seemed at once to breathe a new and delicious 
 atmosphere, the very air was perfumed, and the 
 flowers shed rays of light from their rainbow-tinted
 
 ETTAIAH. 119 
 
 petals. Led by an irresistible impulse, dazzled 
 and bewildered, the young adventurer crossed the 
 marble courts, and entered a vast circular hall in the 
 palace. Twelve pillars of crystal supported the lofty 
 roof, wrought in purple and silver to mimic the glories 
 of the summer night, the floor was inlaid with chry- 
 solyte ; and the curving walls sparkled with innume- 
 rable gems : but far outshining all, at the farther end 
 of the hall sat Khoob-soorut on a throne of ivory, 
 in aspect gentle and innocent as a pearl newly drawn 
 from the green waters of Oman. 
 
 " Nor her loveliness alone, but the witchery of her 
 smile and the honey-sweet accents of her voice, sank 
 deep into the heart of the young Bhudroo, who, bewil- 
 dered with joy, overwhelmed with astonishment and 
 admiration, lay, as if entranced, at the feet of the 
 enchantress. 
 
 " Her choicest spells were exercised to ensnare and 
 secure her prey, and body and soul were nearly won, 
 when to the oiTer of her hand in maniage and all 
 the untold wealth contained within her palace, she 
 annexed the startling condition, that he should aid 
 her in bringing back the city of Ettaiah to the 
 worship of Kali. The heart of the enamoured youth 
 sank within him. Darkly, — yet too sensibly, came 
 back upon his soul, the days of anarchy, the woes 
 of famine and pestilence, endured by his fellow- 
 citizens, while under the wrath of Krishna. How dare 
 he risk the renewal of these horrors ! Firmlv, thoucrh
 
 120 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 slowly, he assured the dangerous syren, whose 
 eyes of heauty now rested upon him with a stem 
 and tenible glance, that in this dread task alone 
 he hesitated to obey her ; in all others, were death 
 itself the penalty incun-ed, he was her devoted and 
 ready slave. Scarcely had the words left his lips 
 when Khooh-soorut, rising from her throne, uttered 
 two words of tremendous malison, and pointing 
 towards him her white and taper finger, that foim 
 of heauty and grace vanished for ever and ever from 
 the gaze of the hapless Bhudroo ; for his eyes had 
 witliered in their sockets. Then warning him that 
 instant death would be his doom if ever he revealed 
 the cause or manner of his misfortune, she bade him 
 begone from her palace. 
 
 " The agonized youth strove to escape from the 
 fatal abode, but darkling and bewildered he wandered 
 for hours amid the enchanted halls and tangled laby- 
 rinths of that delusive paradise, the fierce arrows of 
 the sun bursting upon his head, and the hiss of 
 venomed reptiles making his blood run cold as he 
 stumbled along, knowing not what hidden danger 
 lurked in his path. The song of birds, the scent of 
 flowers, were no longer manifest to his senses; but 
 the fiendish laugh of the cruel Khoob-soorut rang 
 unceasingly in his ears. It was night-fall ere, ex- 
 hausted, blind, and despairing, he reached his home. 
 
 " The unfortunate Bhudroo languished in obscurity, 
 none knowing the cause of his affliction, while the
 
 ETTAIAH. 121 
 
 wicked Kali, exciting a fierce thirst for wealth 
 in the bosoms of the young men of Ettaiah, 
 by awakening their avarice vanquished their scruples 
 and their fears, and day by day provided new 
 victims for Khoob-soorut. Some of these rash ad- 
 venturers, who had penetrated into the fatal palace 
 in the hopes of attaining unbounded wealth, returned 
 with their sight or speech destroyed; the teeth of 
 some became brass, the limbs of others marble, the 
 rest were gibbering idiots, or frantic madmen; — yet 
 none dared to reveal the true cause of his misfortune ; 
 and ten'or and doubt anew possessed the city of 
 Ettaiah. At length the virtuous Buddunaut unable 
 to restrain the fatal curiosity of his people, and filled 
 with pity for the strange and awful bereavements 
 thereby incurred, assembled the whole train of 
 maimed and blighted sufferers before the great Temple 
 of Krishna, and endeavoured to elicit a confession 
 which should discover the cause of that god's dis- 
 pleasure. 
 
 " His exhortations and menaces were answered by 
 tears and lamentations^ but none dare breathe the 
 name, nor detail the fiendish mahce of Khoob-soorut. 
 Then Buddunaut retired within the temple, and 
 there, assisted by the principal Brahmins, he per- 
 formed solemn rites in honour of the god, and 
 adjured him to reveal the cause' of his wrath, and 
 why the furnace of affliction was anew kindled to 
 devour his wretched people. 
 
 M
 
 122 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 " While thus employed the blind Bhudroo, first 
 victim of Khoob-soovut, stepped forth from the multi- 
 tude and cried aloud — 
 
 " ' Hear me, O ! most noble Buddunaut — in early 
 childhood we were friends, and like to brothers, and 
 for love of thee, and to restore peace to thy city^ 
 1 will reveal the cause of my present affliction, 
 though death itself be the penalty. In yonder 
 palace dwells a false enchantress, sent by the terrible 
 goddess Kali to win back your people to her worship, 
 or to exterminate the whole race amid tortures such 
 as we have suffered. 
 
 '' ' The vain love of praise, and the accursed desire 
 of wealth, first lured me within yon fatal walls. 
 The sorceress is more beautiful than day ; who can 
 stand before her ? — 
 
 "'But beware, ! beware, ye who are yet unscathed 
 take warning, my fellow citizens, danger and death 
 lurk like serpents amid her seeming paradise, her 
 smile is ruin, and her loveliness a lure into the paths 
 of destruction — O ! fly, then, the haunts of the de- 
 deceiver.' — He stretched forth his arms imploringly 
 to his companions, a livid hue overspread his face, 
 and sinking at the feet of Buddunaut, he expired in 
 honible convulsions. 
 
 " Great was the dismay of the spectators — they 
 threw themselves upon the gi-ound, tore their gar- 
 ments, and cast dust upon their heads, cursing the 
 evil fate that had come upon themselves and their
 
 ETTAIAH. 123 
 
 children, for verily it appeared that the contest 
 between the powers of evil and good would end only 
 in the destruction of Ettaiah, and of all its wretched 
 inhabitants. Nor was the piteous tumult appeased, 
 until the youthful chief Buddunaut with all the 
 grace and dignity of superior virtue, thus addressed 
 his subjects : — 
 
 " ' Take courage,' he said, ' my unhappy people — 
 return in peace to your homes, the sun shall not 
 again rise and set ere this enchantment be dissolved, 
 even though your safety be only purchased by my life.' 
 
 " Relying upon this noble promise, the affrighted 
 citizens slowly withdrew to their houses, praising the 
 self-devotion of their chief, and invoking for him 
 the aid and protection of Krishna ; while the chief 
 Brahmins and astrologers busied themselves within 
 the temples to ascertain the auspicious moment when 
 Buddunaut should commence the adventm-e. 
 
 " The prosperous conjunction of the heavenly signs 
 denoted the pure and solemn hour before dawn, and 
 Buddunaut full of zeal and courage, robed in regal 
 attire, and attended by a numerous train of priests 
 and nobles, climbed the rugged hill, and then bidding 
 adieu to his followers crossed the fatal threshold alone. 
 
 " The people of Ettaiah assembling in crowds, stood 
 upon the sides of the hill and along the banks of the 
 river, their eyes fixed upon the lofty walls and shining 
 towers within whose precincts their beloved chief had 
 ventured. The hours sped on — no food had entered 
 M 2
 
 124 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 their lips, no shelter had they from the blazing sun ; 
 the Brahmins offered sacrifices, and pious devotees 
 muttered unceasing prayers, but still Buddunaut came 
 not. Towards noon a burst of triumphant music 
 came swelling forth upon the air from the interior 
 of the palace, and songs of rejoicing and loud shouts 
 of frantic merriment startled the ears of the anxious 
 citizens. These continued at frequent intervals ; but 
 they heralded not the return of the adventurous chief, 
 and towards sunset some of the boldest among the 
 people consulted together if they should not force an 
 entrance into the mysterious palace, and discover 
 whether the mad strains of revelry proceeding fi'om 
 thence celebrated the triumph of their prince, or that 
 of the terrible Kali. A chosen body of brave young 
 men stood forward to prosecute this adventure, when 
 lo I on the marble teiTace which roofed the palace 
 Buddunaut at length appeared. 
 
 " Alas for the pride of man ! A murmur of horror 
 and dismay ran through the multitude ; for behold the 
 generous and heroic chief, a few hours before the model 
 of manly grace and beauty, stood before them a blighted 
 and distorted being, a monster of humanity, unrecog- 
 nizable save by his jewelled crown, his royal robes, and 
 the broad scar upon his brow, token of his days of 
 glory and his prowess in battle. With hollow and 
 discordant voice he addressed the assembly; — 
 
 " * My devoted subjects — fellow worshippers of the 
 divine Kali, behold your chief, whose eyes are now
 
 ETTAIAH. 125 
 
 opened to see the fault lie has committed in so long 
 refusing his allegiance to that great and powerful god- 
 dess. Come, prostrate yourselves at her shrine ; offer 
 to her your dutiful v^ows, and then return to your homes 
 and revel in all luxury and delight. Away with the 
 wild shackles of law, let each man do that which is 
 right in his own eyes : the world is wide enough for 
 all, and the pleasures it contains are many and varied 
 as the pehbles on the sea shore. Let us then eat, drink, 
 and be merry : your monarch shall set you the exam- 
 ple — Lo ! I have chosen my queen, my bride, more 
 lovely than the full-orbed moon ; and for myself — if 
 your fond love praised my strength and statm'e before, 
 behold how glorious am I now ! ' — and the degraded 
 chief in his frantic delusion raised up to its full height 
 his withered and mis-shapen form, as if to challenge 
 the admiration of the awe-sti'icken multitude, who hid 
 their eyes from a sight so dreadful. Even at this mo- 
 ment, a little snake, glittering in scarlet and gold, and 
 scarce thicker than a man's finger, wound itself up from 
 a small crevice in the tesselated floor, and suddenly ex- 
 panding to an enonnous size, enfolded the hapless 
 Buddunaut in its temble coils, and instantly crushed 
 him to death. 
 
 " The fierce reptile then flung forward its gigantic 
 body, levelled the brazen gates, and dai-ting like a 
 scorching meteor through the magic gi'oves entered the 
 palace. 
 
 " While the citizens of Ettaiah stood paralyzed with 
 m3
 
 126 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 terror a dense and lurid cloud oversjDread the sky — 
 thunders bellowed around — the mountain shook to its 
 base — and a piercing cry from the shattered palace 
 of Khoob-soorut seemed to rend the heavens. 
 
 " The enchantment was dispelled — Krishna in the 
 form of a sei-pent had triumphed at last over his 
 enemy Kali; — the sorceress Koob-soorut was destroyed, 
 and yonder you behold the palace, wherein her magic 
 snares were spread, again reduced to a heap of ruins, 
 and mouldering beneath the heavy hand of time."
 
 12: 
 
 AGRA. 
 
 THE rORT. THE MOTI MUSJID. 
 
 It is often very difficult, nay impossible, to discover, 
 by the unmoved countenance and manner of the Mus- 
 sulman, how far he is sincere or ironical in his allu- 
 sions to the British power and the altered state of 
 government, in those rich territories which were 
 lately the crown lands of the Mogul Emperors. 
 When I was exploring the ruins of Agra, about 
 three years since, a very handsome young Mussul- 
 man — who had proved himself equally intelligent 
 and well informed, by resolving a number of ques- 
 tions which I put to him about the different build- 
 ings, and their former occupants — somewhat per- 
 plexed me by the following reply to my remarks 
 upon the changes which had taken place in the 
 renowned capitals of Delhi and Agra. There was 
 no movement of the eye or mouth, no intonation of 
 voice, which could be supposed to interpret the man's 
 equivocal speech.
 
 128 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL, 
 
 " Let those who are sheltered in mercy/' said he, 
 alluding to the deceased kings of the Mogul dynasty, 
 who hy Mussulmans are never spoken of as being dead 
 in other terms than these ; " Let those who are shel- 
 tered in mercy, whose seat is in Paradise, behold how 
 the mighty men of all India, the descendants of a thou- 
 sand emperors, have exchanged turbans * with your 
 victorious and peace - dispensing countrymen ; the 
 j^roud chiefs, the children of the true prophet, the 
 chosen of heaven, the invincible, delighting in bene- 
 volence and good faith, have made themselves joyful 
 in an act of brotherly affection, by sharing with the 
 English the glories and riches of their thrones. Other- 
 wise, they had been content to resign their power 
 altogether into the hands of this noble race of stran- 
 gers, whom Alia was pleased to select as instruments 
 to save the whole country from destruction. Is it not 
 true, Sir, that the chiefs of roijalty have had pleasure 
 in descending from their kingly state, to grind rice 
 for princely infidels P " f Throughout this sentence, 
 as I received it, the light and shade of profound 
 respect and insolence, of submission and reproach, 
 played to and fro in so shifting and chequered a man- 
 ner, that I was quite unable to define the man's real 
 meaning ; nor could I ascertain it by farther ques- 
 tions. 
 
 * The most sacred and inviolable token of friendship and peace 
 among all oriental nations. 
 
 t " To grind rice for infidels," is an expression betokening the 
 utmost degradation to which a Mussulman can be brought.
 
 PORT OF AGRA. 129 
 
 While we were gazing upon the beautiful ruins of 
 the white marble pavilion in the palace, he quoted 
 the following lines from the poet Sadi : — 
 
 *' The spider hath woven his web in the royal palace of the 
 
 Caesars ; 
 The owl standeth centinel on the watch towers of Afrasiab." 
 
 The fort of Agra is a most imposing object, upon 
 whichever side it is viewed. The lofty towers and 
 high embattled walls rise one above another, to a tre- 
 mendous height, giving it the appearance of a gigantic 
 castle, reared from a foundation upon the plain; while 
 in truth, it consists of a succession of fortifications, 
 built in, or upon, the rocky front of a high precipice, 
 walls are, in some places, surmounted with hand- 
 some domes of marble, or of gilt copper, and upon the 
 front facing the Jumna, the elegant white marble 
 pavilions of the palace overlook the works. The walls 
 of the body of the place are still kept in excellent 
 repair by the Government, while the outer ditch and 
 out-works have been suffered to go to decay. But I 
 must not occupy ray naiTow space with wide descrip- 
 tions or with historical detail; daily writers are saving 
 me the necessity. Who does not now knov,', what 
 nobody knew fifty years since, that Agra was raised 
 from a village to a most magnificent city by the 
 Emperor Akbar, and by him called Akbar-abad. 
 Who does not know that the fort was considered 
 impregnable until taken by Lord Lake, in 1803 ; 
 that it floated in blood during the reign of Aurung-
 
 130 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 zebe, and during each successive reign, until it came 
 into the possession of the English; that its domes of 
 pure gold have been induced to make the voyage to 
 England; that the marble palaces and tesselated halls 
 have been converted into store -rooms ? Who does 
 not know that both Delhi and Agra, the first and 
 second capitals of the most powerful and glorious 
 empire of the East, are new little better than a heap 
 of ruins, without trade — without a show of royalty ? 
 But to those who have looked upon these magnificent 
 relics of oriental grandeur there is no treat so great 
 as talking or writing of them : it is with great self- 
 denial that I refrain from telling my tale throughout, 
 and turning over again my whole budget of inform- 
 ation upon the subject; especially when I alight upon 
 some favorite object of admiration. Thus, kind reader, 
 if I should ever weary you by my prosaic descrip- 
 tions, I trust I may claim some sympathy in my 
 overfond dilation of the scene. The poet Sadi 
 makes the lover apologize for his wearisome rhap- 
 sodies, in the following beautiful strain. " My com- 
 panion oft reproaches me for my love, will he never 
 behold her charms, that my excuse may be accepted ? 
 Would to heaven that they who blame me for my 
 passion could see thy face, oh, thou ravisher of 
 hearts! that at the sight of thee, they might be con- 
 founded, and inadvertently cut their heads instead of 
 the fruit which they hold, thou hast no compassion 
 for my disorder: my companion should be afflicted
 
 FORT OF AGRA. 131 
 
 with the same malady, thai I might sit all day, 
 repeating my tale to him; for two pieces of wood 
 burn together with a brighter flame : while thy mind 
 is not affected like mine, the relation of my storv 
 seems to be only an idle tale." In bespeaking the 
 interest of the reader, I do not exactly wish with 
 Sadij that he may become so absorbed in my effu- 
 sion as inadvertently to do himself an injury, but I 
 am certainly desirous he should be so far sensible of 
 the beauty and grandeur of the scenes described as 
 will enable him to enter with full relish into the 
 stories or legends attached to them. 
 
 In Lucian, the immortal Homer is made to avow 
 that he commenced his book with the word Mr/vtv, 
 simply because it was the most convenient word which 
 presented itself to him ; and he is represented as 
 laughing to scorn the penetration of the critic, who 
 professed to have discovered in that single word an 
 epitome of the whole poem. I certainly am under 
 no a])prehension lest any critic, however profound, 
 should pretend to read the events of the conclusion in 
 the pages which open my description of Agra ; but 
 while I plead guiltj^ of having seized and committed 
 to paper whatever offered itself with the best promise 
 of accommodation, I trust that these random words 
 will be found not altogether iiTelevant. 
 
 The Moti Musjid, or Pearl Mosque, is the most 
 beautiful and attractive building within the fort of 
 Agra. While the British Government have not he-
 
 132 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 sitated to appropriate the costly halls of the regal 
 palace for ammunition stores and magazines; they 
 have disj^layed sufhcient good taste and regard for 
 the religious feelings of the Mussulmans to preserve 
 sacred and untouched this most elegant place of wor- 
 ship. It receives its name from the material of 
 which it is constructed, being entirely of white mar- 
 ble, highly polished, and which, under the dazzling 
 rays of a tomd sun, has in truth all the appearance 
 of pearl. It stands nearly in the centre of the citadel, 
 and forms a most enticing object of admiration amid 
 the tottering and prostrate ruins of noble architecture 
 all round it ; but the exterior view of it gives but a 
 faint foretaste of the exceeding symmetiy and ex- 
 quisite finish of the work within. It has all the air 
 of fairy architecture, and carries imagination back to 
 those shadowy images which in childhood we had en- 
 deavoured to embody from the glowing pages of the 
 Arabian Nights. 
 
 No sooner has the beholder passed the arched 
 doors and entered upon the terraced quadrangle, 
 than he finds himself shut in on all sides with 
 walls of the purest white marble, delicately carved, 
 and built in chaste and symmetrical proportion. 
 The eye has nothing but this radiant material to rest 
 upon except the blue vault of heaven above, and its 
 reflection in the basin of holy water in the centre of 
 the court. A beautiful arcade runs round three sides 
 of this area, and on the fourth side is the Musjid 
 itself — the holy house of prayer. The design of this
 
 rORT OF AGRA. 133 
 
 is exceedingly elegant ; many artists and other able 
 critics have declared it one of the most perfect spe- 
 cimens of symmetry extant in oriental architecture. 
 The front consists of seven beautiful arches overhung 
 with a broad canopy ; the centre is crowned with a 
 large and nobly proportioned dome, with one on 
 either side considerably smaller, and on the extremi- 
 ties of the facade ai'e two small pavilions. A few 
 shallow steps lead up to the interior, which is sup- 
 ported by pillars of the same fashion as those with- 
 out, and vaulted with intersecting arches of a cor- 
 responding form ; facing the centre arch is the tdhk, 
 or sacred niche, in which a copy of the Koran is 
 always deposited while service is being performed; 
 and on either side under the second arch is a small 
 pulpit, also of white marble. An air of solemn gran- 
 deur reigns throughout the whole building ; but that 
 which particularly delights the eye and the heart is 
 the supernatural purity and spotless lustre of the 
 entire structure. 
 
 After a surfeit of admiration, the question naturally 
 occurs, by whose refined taste and critical skill was 
 this exquisite gem designed ? The architect was the 
 princely but unfortunate Emperor Shah Jehan, whose 
 mild and generous disposition offered a temptation to 
 his crafty and ambitious son, Aurungzebe, to dethrone 
 and imprison his royal father, and usurp his do- 
 minions. A quotation of my own words,* if I 
 
 * See First Impressions and Studies from Natiire in Hindostan. 
 London, Allen and Co., 1837.
 
 134 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 may be permitted the liberty, will tell sufficient of 
 his history very briefly. He came to the throne by 
 the death of his father in 1628. " Shah Jehan was 
 an amiable and wise prince, universally beloved by 
 his subjects, and a very pattern of excellence in private 
 life. He had four sons, who, with one exception, the 
 crafty Aurungzebe, followed in their father's steps, 
 and imitate<J his virtues. Aurungzebe, however, 
 proved himself a man of a very different disposition- 
 subtle, wily, and selfish ; — and upon him the father 
 found it necessary to keep a strict curb and an ever 
 watchful eye. But even this vigilance was insuf- 
 ficient to frustrate his deep-laid schemes of treason. 
 After several abortive attempts to seize the reins of 
 empire from his father's hands, he threw off the 
 character of a prince, and under the pretext of ex- 
 piating his crimes, he habited himself as a fahkit', 
 and in that guise travelled all the way into the 
 Deccan ; there by the incessant exertion of bribery, 
 promises, and persuasions, he levied a large army, and 
 marched against the imperial city of his father, seizing 
 an opportunity while the officers of state were en- 
 gaged in another quarter. By an extraordinary concur- 
 rence of good fortune and skill, and by an inexplicable 
 agency, wherein artifice and duplicity were his chief 
 aids, he at last gained footing within the capital, and 
 secured the persons of his father and one of his elder 
 brothers : the other two being absent from Agra, 
 upon an expedition, remained at large, and being at 
 the time furnished with troops, made head against the
 
 FORT or AGRA. 135 
 
 usurper, but without avail." The treacherous and 
 heartless son now incarcerated the Emperor his 
 father within the walls of his own fortress of Agra, 
 with the assurance that death alone would free him 
 from his confinement. 
 
 The dethroned Emperor was not, however, altogether 
 without consolation in his imprisonment. He sur- 
 vived his downfal about seven years, during which 
 period he was tenderly cheered and supported by the 
 companionship of his favourite daughter, the cele- 
 brated Begum Jehanari, who displayed the fulness 
 of her fihal affection by voluntarily sharing her 
 father's fallen state and loss of liberty. History 
 describes this extraordinary princess as being of sur- 
 passing beauty, and no less distinguished by her 
 excellent wit, her never-failing courage, and a bene- 
 volence of heart which was only equalled by her 
 virtue and constancy. The freshness of her youth 
 was devoted to the consolation of her spirit-broken 
 father, and to the study of science and elegant lite- 
 rature ; while the extent of her religious knowledge 
 and experience is the favorite theme of her admiring 
 historians. The building of the Moti Musjid is said 
 to have been suggested by this lovely princess to her 
 father, " with the double motive of diverting his mind 
 from his afflictions, and of raising a memorial of his 
 piety which should not only induce others to follow 
 his holy mode of life, but furnish them with the 
 opportunity of performing their religious obligations."* 
 
 * Ferishta's History. 
 N 2
 
 136 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 A knowledge of the origin of this Musjid cannot fail 
 to add greatly to the interest with which we regard it. 
 I was myself the more charmed when put in possession 
 of these facts, since I remembered having seen and 
 greatly admired the tomb of this illustrious Begum 
 Jehanari at Delhi not many months previously, and 
 having listened to the enthusiastic strains of praise 
 with which a native interlarded passages of her history. 
 From the peculiar and very chaste style of her 
 tomb, I should think it not improbable that this 
 princess had designed it herself ; for it is a constant 
 practice of Mohummedan chiefs to build their own 
 mausoleums during their life time. It consists of a 
 very elegant white marble sarcophagus, open at the top 
 so as to fonn a receptacle for mould in which flowers 
 might be planted ; it is delicately ornamented with 
 sculptured flowers, and a border of inlaid gems, but all 
 in a very simple style. Upon a polished tablet at the 
 upper end is an elegant inscription in Persian cha- 
 racters, very finely carved and inlaid in jet; — 
 
 which, being interpreted, signifies — 
 
 ;5
 
 FORT OF AGRA. 137 
 
 "■ Let not any person decorate my tomb with any 
 other thing than earth and flowers, for these are fittest 
 for the resting place of a holy spirit. 
 " 1094.* 
 " The perishable pilgrim, Jehanari Begum, the 
 daughter of Shah .Fehan, and a disciple of the Sainted 
 Tchisti." 
 
 But to return from Delhi to the Moti Musjid; instead 
 of attempting any farther description in words, I think 
 I need make no apology for refemng the gentle 
 reader to the frontispiece of the volume, which has been 
 very cleverly and carefully drav.n by Mr. Roberts from 
 my sketch, and which presents as faithful an idea of 
 the building as it is possible to convey by art. 
 When after a long walk spent in admiration of this 
 truly beautiful building, I turned from the gate half 
 blinded with the sparkling glitter of all around me, 
 I could not resist the temptation of endeavouring to 
 learn something more about Begum Jehanari from 
 my intelligent young friend the Mussulman; but I 
 found he could not indulge me. 
 
 " Ah !" said the young fellow, with an audible sigh 
 and a somewhat lack-a-daisical air ; " Ah, Great Sir, 
 what will not devoted woman do for the man she loves ?" 
 "Aye ! or a daughter for her father ?" said I. 
 "That is very true. Sir; the Begum was Shah 
 Jehan's daughter ; but your honour, to whom every 
 thing is well known, must be familiar with that wise 
 
 * Of the Hijera. 
 N 3
 
 138 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 saying which is constantly in the mouths of those 
 who read the poets. 'A devoted stranger is more 
 dear than a neglectful relation ; hut an unwind kins- 
 man is less esteemed than an utter stranger;' nor is 
 the Hindoo story of 
 
 KING SADRAK AND HIS DEWAN 
 
 unknown to your excellence." I declared my igno- 
 rance and my desire for hght, and the talkative youth, 
 without farther introduction, commenced his tale, while 
 I seated myself on the shady side of an emhrasure 
 overlooking the Jumna. 
 
 In ancient times there lived a Raja, by name Sa- 
 drak, in a magnificent j^alace overlooking the waters of 
 the Brahma-pootra ; he was a person of great wealth, 
 and of equal charity, so that none who left their slip- 
 pers at his door had cause for regret. In all things 
 was this Raja fortunate except in one ; he had an only 
 son, who, having thrice conspired against his father's 
 life, was for ever banished his dominions. At the gate 
 of this hospitable chief there resided a venerable 
 dewan, * who was the dispenser of his lord's welcome 
 to all who deserved his hospitality, but it was also his 
 duty to see that no rogues or plunderers were admit- 
 ted. Now this trusty servant had filled his office during 
 three generations of the Raja's family; and, by reason 
 of his extreme age, was becoming daily less able to 
 discharge, with due activity and disci elion, the duties 
 
 * Dewan, a door keeper, an cif^ce of trust and of consequence in 
 the East.
 
 FORT or AGRA. 139 
 
 of his post ; and, through this failing of his mind and 
 body, great evil befel King Sadrak ; for daily dejn-eda- 
 tions were committed upon his property by the hands 
 of the choars and dukhaits, who had little difficulty 
 in gaining access to the treasure. 
 
 Now the King being greatly incensed by these un- 
 grateful requitals of his bounty, called upon his slave 
 the dewan. " Oh, dewanT said he, ''have not you and 
 your children eaten my salt during many years ; have 
 not your infants become strong men and valiant through 
 my nourishment ; are they not honorably advanced in 
 my service?" But when the old man made answer to 
 the Raja, the chief discovered that, by the lapse of 
 years, the strength and intelligence of his officer 
 had subsided into a second infancy. With much con- 
 cern the Raja endeavoured to convince himself that this 
 was not the truth ; but the more he enquired of the 
 aged dewan, the more folly did he encounter; until at 
 last, wearied and sore at heart, he motioned him to de- 
 part. And as he withdrew, making his usual obeisance, 
 the King, lamenting his loss, by chance exclaimed 
 aloud, " Ah ! woe is me, who now shall sit at my gate 
 to keep guard over my palace and to regard those who 
 come and depart upon my charity !" AVhereupon the 
 spirit of wisdom again lighted up the eyes and venerable 
 countenance of his aged slave, who, with deej) submis- 
 sion returning to the presence, exclaimed ; 
 
 " Oh, most potent prince ! is it not wisely written 
 that under a severe taskmaster the services of a slave 
 are cast away ? If he remain in silence he is despised
 
 140 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 as a fool ; if he should become eloquent he is reviled 
 as a madman and a prattler; if he be ever at his lord's 
 beck he is declared to be an artful and designing 
 knave; if he stand at a distance he is deemed slothful; 
 if patient and submissive he is abused as a coward ; 
 if unable to endure abuse he is said to be an upstart 
 and rebellious. Great King, the path of a slave under 
 such a tyrant is indeed difficult and not to be per- 
 formed even by a saint. But what need of endurance 
 has there been on the part of your mightiness' slave ? 
 has he not been overloaded with favors P and now, 
 that he is about to drink the sherbet of dissolution, 
 what chance remains to him of proving his fidelity and 
 gratitude ? But oh, my master ! be not apprehensive 
 lest a servant less devoted should occupy the entrance 
 to your palace. It is not unknown to your excellence 
 that, as long as your slave has dwelt in the gate, his 
 labors have been shared, and his moments of repose 
 have been enlightened, by the presence of the beautiful 
 Luchmi, the goddess of prosperity, who has thought 
 it bliss to become the servant of so great and wise a 
 prince. Behold, she shall supply the departure of 
 your slave with one equally' worthy of your confidence !" 
 Having thus spoken, the dewan made his reverence 
 and withdrew. 
 
 In a short time there stood before the entrance of 
 the palace a traveller, toil-worn, andhavinghis power- 
 ful limbs subdued b}^ fatigue. " Oh dewan," cried he, 
 " I am but now arrived at your palace from a far- 
 distant land, and, having left my wife and child in
 
 FORT OF AGRA. 141 
 
 the city, I have not taken repose before I seek tiie 
 presence of King Sadrak. I am a Rajhpoot, my 
 name is Behrid; admit me to the presence." 
 
 With permission, the traveller was shortly presented 
 to the Raja, and with reverence spoke ; '*' Behold, oh 
 King, I am a stranger in these parts, but in a far-off 
 country, having heard of the fame of your mightiness' 
 wisdom and gi-eat virtues, and of the depredations of 
 certain marauding ingrates who have abused your 
 honor's hospitality, I have travelled day and night 
 to offer my services to your majesty." 
 
 Now King Sadrak, being a prudent as well as a 
 generous prince, enquired, '' What salary dost thou 
 expect ?" 
 
 " Be not wroth nor surprised, oh King, that I 
 demand for my service four hundred pieces of gold 
 daily." 
 
 " Truly," replied the monarch, with a smile, " it 
 is evident that the most disinterested admiration of 
 my many excellent qualities drew thee to my fool- 
 stool. Thy excessive modesty is thy best fortune. 
 Doubtless thy craft is one of great skill and inge- 
 nuity; with what tools dost thou exercise thy cun- 
 ning?" 
 
 " Most illustrious Raja, my tools are the best 
 part of my calling ; they are three in number ; my 
 two arms and my sabre." 
 
 *' And for such costly trade thou art content to 
 demand so small a pittance as four hundred pieces 
 of gold daily; this over-diffident estimation of thy
 
 142 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 deserts proves thee a fool. Deivan" added King 
 Sadrak, "let this stranger depart as he came!" 
 
 But here the chief vizier ventured to interpose. 
 " Oh Prince/' said he apart, " let not this traveller 
 be thus repulsed, I cannot hut think that there is 
 excellence in him. May your highness be pleased to 
 grant him his exorbitant claim but for a few days, and 
 when he is proved, it will be in your power to dis- 
 charge him, or to retain him upon such stipend as 
 may be proportionate to his merits. Let it please 
 your majesty to place him as dewan within the gate, 
 and let a continual watch be placed upon his ac- 
 tions!" This speech pleased the Raja greatly, and 
 having bestowed some mark of favour upon the 
 stranger, he admitted him to his service with the 
 salary of four hundred pieces of gold daily. 
 
 Having received his commission, the traveller 
 brought his wife and child to the gate of the palace, 
 but it was remarked that he would not suffer them 
 to dwell in the gate, nor to sport in the shadow of it ; 
 neither would he render any explanation of this 
 fanciful proceeding; but with his own hands he built 
 them a small hut, without the gate, at the foot of a 
 large tomb. No sooner had this Rajhpoot become 
 established in his office than the former dewan was 
 carried to the water and expired ; but while all the 
 household mourned his loss they could not but be 
 sensible that his place was excellently well filled. 
 In a very few days it became evident, that the 
 Rajhpoot was a man of no common ability and
 
 FORT OF AGRA. 143 
 
 discernment; his inferiors respected, and his su- 
 periors admired him, for his zeal and his discretion ; 
 nor did the Raja think fit to reduce his salary 
 honestly confessing that his ser\4ces were even under- 
 valued : and it was apparent that avarice formed no 
 blemish in the man's character, for daily when his 
 money was disbursed from the treasury, without os- 
 tentation, he devoted one half of it to the gods and to 
 the Brahmins, distributed one quarter to the poor, and 
 the remainder he reserved for himself. In his duties he 
 was never failing, in his good works he was constant. 
 Day and night he continued at the palace gate, having 
 his sword in his hand ; he was just to all men, but 
 over-indulgent to none. Thus during many years 
 he continued to serve the Raja. 
 
 As the Rajhpoot was esteemed among all who knew 
 him, so his son became even more greatly the object 
 of affection and regard. Handsome of person, as he 
 grew towards manhood he was equally remarkable for 
 his amiable and elegant deportment ; and it was fully 
 expected by all that the Raja would place him in 
 some post of honor and confidence about his royal 
 person, as soon as his education was complete. But 
 about this time the following event took place. 
 
 Upon the fourteenth day of the averted moon, the 
 city of king Sadrak was visited with a fearful earth- 
 quake ; and at midnight the raging winds shook the 
 lofty towers of the castle, and the glancing lightnings 
 sported from dome to minaret of the palace, while 
 the massive walls trembled to the rolling thunder.
 
 144 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 Now, contrary to his custom, the R,ajhpoot, pitying 
 the alarm of his wife, while exposed in the humble hut 
 to the terrors of the hurricane, had admitted her with 
 his son to shelter within the chambers of the gate ; 
 and as they sat conversing, while the storm was at its 
 utmost, there was heard at the gate a mournful cry, 
 and th.e trembling accents of weeping and lamen- 
 tation. Then cried the deivan, ' Who stands with- 
 out?' but receiving no answer, he opened the gate, 
 and sought whence the voice had come, but could 
 discover no one. Having made diligent search they 
 became greatly amazed, for whenever the dewan 
 closed the gate, the same melancholy wailings were 
 renewed. 
 
 Then the dewan sent his son to inform the Raja of 
 these strange things, who having come to the gate in 
 person, and having satisfied himself of the truth of 
 those lamentable sounds, commanded the Rajhpoot to 
 go forth and seek the author of them, and never to 
 i-etum into his presence until he was fully informed of 
 every thing concerning them. With humble respect 
 the dewan immediately obeyed his lord's command, 
 and went forth ; but no sooner had he departed than 
 the king, thinking within himself that he had not 
 done wisely in sending a single man unsupported 
 upon such a service, drew his scimitar and followed 
 him out of the gate directly, charging Behrid s son to 
 oj>en the gate unto none save themselves. But king 
 Sadrak was unable to find the dewan, he having
 
 rOKT OF AGRA. 145 
 
 entered the tomb at the foot of which he had built 
 his little hut. 
 
 While he was anxiously pursuing his search 
 among the ruins, Behrid suddenly found himself 
 in the presence of a most lovely damsel, exceedingly 
 young and graceful, the radiant splendour of whose 
 countenance shed a bright light throughout the 
 vaulted apartment. The dewan fell upon his face 
 before the exquisite beauty ; '' Oh, Luchmi ! " cried 
 he, " most glorious goddess of felicity, wherefore dost 
 thou thus mourn and lament ? " 
 
 " Ah, miserable Behrid," replied the goddess, " hast 
 thou forgotten my commands ? hast thou not expelled 
 me from my abode in the gateway of King Sadrak, by 
 bringing into my presence thy disgraced wife, whose 
 life was dearer to thee than her honour. Miserable 
 man, thou art the ruin of the noble prince who has 
 so generously sheltered and befriended thee. In 
 consequence of thy crime, am I compelled to with- 
 draw my favour and protection from the palace of the 
 king." 
 
 Behrid trembled with fear, and his whole frame 
 became distended with remorse ; he uttered a stifled 
 groan, and buried his face in the dust, as he 
 sobbed forth, — ''Oh, thou most redoubtable Goddess ! 
 may not the extreme contrition of thy slave be dis- 
 played, and thy favour be regained for my lord the 
 king by the voluntary sacrifice of thy slave's life ? " 
 
 "■ Nay, thou faithless miscreant," replied the god- 
 o
 
 146 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 (less, " of what account is thy sullied life ? to whom 
 would it be acceptable ? But mark me, in the pu- 
 rity and perfection of thy son's soul could I find 
 pleasure; him will I condescend to receive as an 
 atonement ; " and having uttered these words the 
 goddess vanished. Hereupon the penitent Behrid 
 rose from the earth, and taking his sabre, returned 
 to the gate, where, in the presence of his wife, 
 he declared to his son all that had befallen him. 
 Then his son, rising with a smile of rapture on his 
 lips, bowed his head and exclaimed : — *' Fortunate 
 indeed am I become, Oh father, that I am thus se- 
 lected to re-establish the prosperity of King Sadrak, 
 our most noble prince. Strike, my father, for in truth 
 I aui rejoiced thus to quit life." 
 
 " Let me embrace thee, mine only one," cried the 
 weeping mother, '' and now farewell, — what less can 
 we do ? Strike, Behrid ! " 
 
 Then the dewan drew his sword, and at one 
 blow struck off the head of his son, and as the life- 
 less trunk rolled heavily upon the ground he thus 
 spoke : " Here indeed is a full atonement for my 
 folly, and a proof of my devotion to my lord's cause : 
 but having destroyed my only child, what comfort 
 remains to me ? assuredly my life is a fruitless 
 burden." Thus having said, he raised his sword, 
 still warm with the blood of his son, and plunged it 
 into his own heart. Beholding this, the wife and 
 mother felt her spirit die within her, and taking the
 
 FORT OF AGRA. 147 
 
 dagger from her husband's gh'dle, she was about to 
 liberate her soul, when King Sadrak returned, and 
 inquired the meaning of this bloody spectacle. She 
 informed him fully of all that had passed, and imme- 
 diately buried the dagger in her bosom. 
 
 " The noble monarch, looking with the deepest 
 regret and admiration upon the prostrate corpses of 
 these devoted servants, was penetrated to the soul 
 witli anguish, and proudly exclaiming, " Thus to die 
 is glory," he unsheathed his scimitar, and was about 
 to put an end to his life, when the goddess Luchmi, 
 
 " Daughter of Ocean and primeval Night, 
 
 Who fed with moonbeams dropping silver dew, 
 
 And cradled in a wild wave dancing hght. 
 
 Saw with a smile new shores and creatures new,"* 
 
 descended before him, and the weapon remained sus- 
 pended. 
 
 " Stay thy hand," said the goddess, in a voice of 
 mercy, " is not this sufficient "^ I will renew my 
 guard over thy reign, and again thou shalt prosper." 
 
 *'0h, goddess," cried the king, falling prostrate, 
 '' wherefore should my hand be stayed, when my life 
 has become hateful to me, and my kingdom a bur- 
 den ? If thou regardest my devotion, command that 
 these my servants be restored to animation, and let 
 my worthless life be taken in exchange." 
 
 " Enough," said Luchmi, " I am fully satisfied with 
 
 * Hymn to Luchmi, translated from the Sanskrit, by Sir W. Jones. 
 2
 
 148 THE ORIEXTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 thy piety, and thy generous affection for thy servants ; 
 be thou for ever prosperous, and receive the obeisance 
 of thy slaves." On these words the prostrate bodies of 
 Behrid, his wife, and son, became re-animated, and 
 arose to pay homage to the deity, but she had va- 
 nished, and the King had returned to his chamber. 
 
 Now when morning was come, and the Raja was 
 present in the assembly of his counsellors and chief 
 ministers, he sent for the dewan, and inquired of 
 him whence arose the disturbance in the night time ; 
 and Behrid being uninformed of what his wife 
 had declared unto the king, was desirous of conceal- 
 ing his merit, and replied, " Oh, King ! an unfor- 
 tunate female wept, but she has departed on her way." 
 
 Then the King was greatly j^leased, and said aloud 
 before the council, " How can this most virtuous 
 servant be sufficiently rewarded?" and having re- 
 lated his history to the chiefs there assembled, 
 he with his own hand adjusted upon Behrid's 
 person a most princely khilat (dress of honor) which 
 he had ordered to be prepared. Then he bestowed 
 upon him one fourth part of his territory, and made 
 his son heir to his entire dominions. 
 
 Wherefore then is it not apparent that " a devoted 
 stranger is more dear than a neglectful relation ; but 
 an unkind kinsman is less esteemed than an utter 
 stranger?" There is also another saying, — '' In peril 
 is a friend proved, in battle a hero, in wealth a reli- 
 gious person, a wise man in poverty, in calamity a 
 kinsman."
 
 149 
 
 DEIG. 
 
 SHRINE or MOHUMMED KAHN. 
 
 The fortress of Deig is about sixty miles north- 
 west from Agra, upon an eminence in the Bhurtpore 
 range of hills. It is said to be of very great antiquity, 
 though it was but a humble fortification before it was 
 rebuilt by the great Emperor Akbur. A curious 
 legend is told of this place, and made to assume the 
 im])ortance of history by the support of Abul Fazil, 
 to the effect that after a very elegant and extensive city 
 had been completed on this spot by the Emperor, it 
 was suddenly swallowed up by an earthquake, together 
 with all its unfortunate inhabitants. Certain it is that 
 for very many years, the place, having become a heap 
 of ruins, was utterly abandoned and shunned with 
 superstitious awe by the people of those parts. In 1760, 
 however, Suraj Muhl, the Jhat Raja, found a few cot- 
 tages inhabited upon the spot, and these he soon con- 
 verted into a fortified town for the occupation of his 
 troops, who, some years afterwards having become dis- 
 o 3
 
 150 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 affected, treacherously conspired to place it in the hand 
 of the insurgent Neujif Khan. In 1787, however, it was 
 re-captured by the Jhats, and by them occupied until 
 it fell before the besieging army of Lord Lake, in 1805. 
 The place is now little more than a town of ruin and 
 desolation, for the inhabited part of it forms by far the 
 smaller portion. Some of these remains are equal in 
 beauty to any that are to be found in Delhi or Agra, 
 and though, chiefly of the same era, are singularly va- 
 ried in their st^^le and design. 
 
 It is quite laughable to behold with what uneasy 
 jealousy the natives, especially the lower orders, uni- 
 versally regard the movements of the exploring Euro- 
 pean as he clambers from ruin to ruin, from tomb to 
 banquet-hall ; and at first the inexperienced lover of 
 antiquities is at a loss to account for the persevering 
 assiduity with which his steps are dogged and his 
 actions watched by these intruders upon his privacy. 
 He cannot long remain in ignorance of the cause of 
 this persecution ; for after having delighted his eyes 
 with carved mouldings and prostrate columns, half 
 legible inscriptions, and moss-grown sculptures ; after 
 having examined and re-examined certain up-turned 
 tablets and crumbling ornaments ; after having often 
 used his walking cane for a crow-bar, and the toe of 
 his boot as a substitute for a pick-axe, and having con- 
 veyed to the capacious recesses of his shooting-jacket 
 pocket certain valuable remnants of mosaic work or 
 fragments of jasper and bloodstone ; some impertinent
 
 DEIG. 
 
 151 
 
 native, more forward than the rest, will venture to com- 
 pliment him upon the success of his search, and assure 
 him that the excellent knowledge of the English leads 
 them to the immediate discovery of treasure without 
 the necessity of implements, whereas an ignorant man 
 of the country would have toiled all day with his 
 tools, and have thought himself fortunate to have found 
 even a single small coin or trinket. A black man can- 
 not possibly comprehend what other object than gain 
 can allure the wanderer to explore those scenes of 
 desolation ; if you speak of a curiosity, he understands 
 a piece of ancient money which may be converted 
 into current coin, or a jewelled relic which may be 
 bartered or melted down to serve the same purpose. It 
 will be found impossible to convince him that history 
 or antiquarian research have anything to do with the 
 pursuit, and he is somewhat inclined to regard it as 
 an act of poaching, an infringement of his legal right, 
 to search for treasure among the ruins of his own city. 
 This may be easily believed, when it is understood, 
 that in every ancient Mussulman city, when the ruins 
 are extensive, there are generally some hundreds of 
 treasure-hunters who make this calling their regular, 
 or rather I should say irregular, means of subsistence. 
 In former times of revolution and rapine, it was the 
 invariable custom of all the wealthy to conceal their 
 riches in some private recess about their mansions; and, 
 to this day, many are the families who are suddenly 
 raised from abject poverty to comparative luxury,
 
 152 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 by a lucky find in walls, or wells, or secret niches. 
 Some are exceedingly artful and ingenious in their 
 ways and means of discovering these deposits of trea- 
 sure, and I believe considerable skill can alone render 
 it a very profitable trade, unless the goddess Luchmi 
 should condescend to guide the seeker. 
 
 Beyond the walls of Deig the country is for some 
 miles dotted with the remains of gardens and basins of 
 water, and many very handsome buildings. The sub- 
 ject of the engraving, which illustrates or is illustrated 
 by this article, is one of these. It is a picturesque object, 
 though when nearl}^ approached it loses much of its 
 importance and beauty, being built of brick, overlaid 
 with white plaster to imitate marble, of which it has all 
 the resplendent appearance when viewed at a distance. 
 The building is called the Shrine of Mohummed Kahn, 
 a Mussulman chief, who figured in the history of these 
 provinces contemporary with Afrasiab, and who after 
 death became sainted ; but for what cause I was un- 
 able to ascertain. His life certainly does not appear 
 to have displayed any great piety, for history repre- 
 sents him to have been a man of a naturally ferocious 
 disposition, debased by intemperance and the reckless 
 indulgence of a vengeful temper and inordinate avarice. 
 Of this the following passage will be sufficient evidence : 
 it presents a striking picture of the insubordination 
 and intrigue which have nowhere been carried to a 
 more fearful height than in the government of the 
 kingdom of Delhi. The flux and reflux of power, the
 
 »aif"l»f!J. /■;•-"»«« Jsy^am: 
 
 -^Uii^'
 
 DEIG. 153 
 
 hourly revulsion of the public will, the instability of 
 popularity and command in the wild tumult of alternate 
 despotism and anarchy, cannot I beheve be illustrated 
 by ancient or modern history more fully than in the 
 following incidents, which I present to the reader as 
 an example of the character of my hero, whose me- 
 mory is sainted among the Mussulmans and upheld 
 as a pattern of excellence. 
 
 In the reign of Shah Aulum, Emperor of Delhi, 
 the office of vizier had long since been matter 
 of rivalry between Afrasiab and Mirza Zaffi Kahn, 
 but the former being a chief of great influence, and 
 being much beloved by the people, continued in power, 
 notwithstanding it was rumoured that the affection of 
 the Emperor was in favour of Mirza Zaffi, to whom 
 he had given a command of troops upon the borders. 
 At the same time Mohummed Kahn, the subject of 
 this sketch, was governor of the Fort of Agra, and be- 
 tween him and Afrasiab there had for many years 
 existed a bitter enmity, which daily circumstances 
 continued to inflame, until at last the ever watchful 
 Mohummed Kahn, taking advantage of certain politi- 
 cal disorders in the capital, determined upon seizing 
 this opporturnity of slaking his rancourous thirst for 
 vengeance. He entered into a conspiracy with the 
 equally envious Mirza Zafh, and laid a scheme for 
 alluring the minister from the court, so that his rival 
 being at hand with his troops might enter the city 
 and usurp the office of vizier.
 
 154 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 With tins view Mirza Zaffi collected a large 
 force, and dividing them into small bodies, advanced 
 within one day's march of the capital, and then 
 Mohummed Kahn having issued from the fort of 
 Agra with a small hand of his adherents, made a 
 descent upon and laid waste the private estate of the 
 Vizier, which that nobleman no sooner ascertained 
 than he obtained the Emperor's permission to punish 
 the offender, with a strong body of troops from the 
 garrison. Then immediately as Afrasiab quitted 
 Delhi, Mirza Zaffi marched in, and boldly ad- 
 vancing his men into the very palace of the Em- 
 peror, he was at once proclaimed Vizier by that im- 
 becile monarch, who also was persuaded to bestow 
 upon him the hand of the Begum Khadeja's daughter, 
 together with a large sum of money as a dowry. 
 
 Being over-elated with his extraordinary success, 
 the new Vizier threw off that courteous and fascinating 
 address which, for a time, had gained him the voice 
 of the nobles and officers around the King's person, 
 and displayed his character in its true colors, before 
 he had become firmly established in his new dignity. 
 His conduct became suddenly so overbearing and 
 imperious that his adherents fell off from him daily ; 
 those who had been most active in his support were 
 speedily his bitterest foes, and as fully determined 
 upon his removal as they had been anxious for his 
 success. Conspiracies were springing up in all 
 quarters within the city and the court, but their
 
 DEIG. 155 
 
 agency was rendered unnecessary by the policy of 
 Afrasiab, to whom news of the revolution had been 
 carried before he had aiTived at his jaghir. At the 
 same time^ the. supplanted minister being unprepared 
 for the reaction in his favor which so suddenly took 
 eflfect at court, deliberated upon his means of re- 
 dress, and finding himself with too small a force 
 to act unsupported in open defiance of the Emperor, 
 he prudently changed the object of his expedition, 
 and instead of chastising Mohummed Kahn for his 
 aggression, he forthwith made overtures of coalescence 
 with that chief, promising him an equal share with 
 himself in the administration. Mohummed Kahn, 
 ever ready for enterprize, ever zealous in his own 
 cause, and panting for power, without demur acceded 
 to the proposal, united his troops with those of 
 Afrasiab, and with this powerful force the insurgents 
 now marched against the capital. On their route 
 thither they persuaded many disaffected chiefs to 
 accompany them with their armies, and by private 
 emissaries they even succeeded in winning over to 
 their cause several of the chief among the nobles at 
 court, and likewise M. Paulin, a French officer com- 
 manding the troops of the renowned Begum Sumroo. 
 It appears however that the rebels pressed their 
 confidence rather too far at court, for some of the 
 chiefs, becoming alarmed for their own safety, dis- 
 covered the plot to the Emperor, and urged upon him 
 the necessity of dismissing the perfidious minister.
 
 156 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 Mirza Zaffi, and of marching immediately to disperse 
 the forces of Afrasiab and of Mohummed Kahn, who 
 gained strength daily, and who were fast advancing 
 upon the capital. This treacherous disclosure was 
 detected by M. Paulin, who with the rest of the 
 conspiring nobles immediately changed their ground, 
 and offered their services for the punishment of the 
 insurgents. All this occurred at the early council, 
 while Mirza Zaffi, ever more a soldier than a states- 
 man, was exercising his troops upon the plain 
 without the city gates. He had not, however, left his 
 seat without trusty surveillance, and no sooner had 
 the Emperor acquiesced in the scheme than his 
 secret emissary carried the news to his master. Now 
 Mirza ZafE having his cousin Mujeid ud Dowla with 
 about fifteen hundred horse at that moment under 
 review, boldly addressed them and declared the 
 danger to which he was exposed. With one voice 
 they swore him service ; and, after a few seconds 
 of deliberation, the wily chief made known his reso- 
 lution to hasten forthwith and combine his force with 
 that of the very men who were in arms against him. 
 With full confidence that their self-interest would prove 
 more durable than their enmity, he marched directly 
 to their camp, and demanding an audience with the 
 chiefs made his proposal, which was immediately ac- 
 cepted. Thus were these three hitherto implacable 
 enemies bound by the same compact of treachery, 
 avarice, ambition, and mutual protection.
 
 DEIG. 157 
 
 The news of this formidable confederacy excited 
 terrible apprehension at court, but the Prince Mirza 
 Juwan, son of the Emperor, at once undertook, in 
 co-operation with M. Paulin, to meet and overthrow 
 the rebel army. This spirited and salutary advice, 
 however, was unfortunately over-ruled by the intrigue 
 of the Begum Khadeja, who apprehensive of evil to 
 her son-in-law, Mirza Zaffi, persuaded the Emperor 
 to embrace an amicable negociation, to which Shah 
 Aulum, with the irresolution and pusillanimity which 
 marked the latter years of his reign, acceded ; and the 
 Prince Mirza Juwan, accompanied by M. PauHn and 
 Latafut Kahn, was charged with the embassy. 
 
 The traitors, having signified their readiness to 
 accept a compromise, admitted the royal ambassadors 
 to their camp, but through a wanton love of bloodshed 
 and vengeance, they suiTounded the council tent with 
 an ambush, took the chiefs with their followers 
 prisoners, and, without delay, barbarously murdered 
 M. Paulin and burnt out the eyes of Latafut. Then 
 making their o^vn terms as to the ransom of the 
 Prince's life, they marched in triumph and entered 
 the city of Delhi, where the enfeebled monarch was 
 compelled to receive them with every mark of royal 
 favour and affection. Mirza Zaffi was immediately 
 reinstated in the dignity of prime minister, and the 
 other conspirators were loaded with titles and honors; 
 but the faithless Mirza, faithless to the most solemn 
 vows which through suspicion had been imposed 
 p
 
 158 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 upon him by Molmmmed Kahn, refused to comply 
 with the terms of the compact, and retained in his 
 own hands the sole administration of affairs. And 
 now again deeming that he was too firmly fixed in 
 power to be shaken from his seat, he excited the 
 discontent and hatred of the nobles by renewed acts 
 of tyranny and insolence ; so that in a very few days 
 he incurred the vengeance which his infamy merited. 
 
 Mohummed Kahn, indulging the natural ferocity 
 of his heart, swore to accomplish his destruction, and 
 in concert with other malcontents plotted his death 
 by the hand of the assassin. 
 
 Having ascertained that the minister was about to 
 march to Agra upon state business, they, as if unde- 
 signedly, encamped under the walls of Deig, through 
 which town he would of necessity pass, and when 
 Mirza Zaffi approached, they engaged in a feigned 
 dispute of a riotous nature among themselves touch- 
 ing the boundaries of certain lands. When the 
 cause of the tumult was reported to the Vizier, he 
 signified his pleasure to adjust the difference and 
 decide upon the claim, and for that purpose ordered 
 his elephant to be driven into the camp of the 
 disputants, where, meeting face to face his rivals and 
 their supporters, the Mirza wisely treated them with 
 unwonted respect and courtesy. He directed his ele- 
 phant to approach that of Mohummed Kahn, who in 
 compliance with ancient usage rose in his hdoda, 
 saluted and embraced the Vizier, and in so doing
 
 DEIG. 159 
 
 seized and detained his right hand, which, being pre - 
 concerted, was the signal for his death-blow. The 
 slave who rode behind Mohummed Khan drew his 
 dagger and stabbed the Vizier to the heart. 
 
 When the news of this treachery was made known 
 to the Emperor, the assassins were received by that 
 weak monarch with every expression of pleasure, and 
 the office of Vizier was immediately conferred upon 
 Afrasiab. Mohummed Khan was also greeted with 
 marks of the King's approbation, and was invested 
 with the command of a province, where he continued 
 somewhat out of reach of court intrigue for many 
 years; but having on some occasion offered an 
 indignity to his old ally and enemy, Afrasiab, he fell 
 a victim to the revenge of that remorseless villain, 
 and was buried in the vicinity of the spot where he 
 had accomplished the assassination of ]Mirza Zaffi. 
 
 p 2
 
 160 
 
 FUTTEHPORE SIKRI. 
 
 THE BHURTPORE OR BIANA HILLS. 
 
 Akbur, Emperor of Delhi, the most renowned of 
 all the Mogul monarchs, removed his court from the 
 imperial city, on account of the difficult navigation of 
 the Jumna in the dry season, and made Agra his 
 capital ; the river being up to that place fairly prac- 
 ticable, during the greater part of the year. He 
 however found the climate of Agra by no means 
 comparable to that of Delhi, and glad to escape from 
 the heat and glare of the city which he had founded, 
 he built for himself a magnificent garden residence, 
 at a place called Futtehpore Sikri, about four and 
 twenty miles distant from Agra, upon the Delhi 
 road. The walls inclosing this royal palace, its 
 offices and stately courts, were six miles in circum- 
 ference, having within their limits two or three of 
 the highest points of the Bhurtpore or Biana range 
 of hills. The situation is most romantic, and the
 
 FUTTEHPORE SIKRI, 161 
 
 climate particularly fine ; in all respects it must have 
 been a fitting residence for this great and glorious 
 monarch, whose name is revered by the natives no 
 less than that of Alexander the Great. 
 
 This sumptuous range of palaces, occupied solely 
 by the royal household, was, I believe, unrivalled in 
 extent and magnificence throughout the world. It is 
 now a heap of deserted ruins, although founded not 
 more than two hundred and seventy years since. It 
 is utterly subverted, and all its noblest buildings are 
 prostrate, except one or two sacred shrines of Moslem 
 saints, and the state entrance, which are still kept in 
 repair. Of the other principal edifices there is in 
 most cases just so much left standing as to render 
 their original purposes apparent, and to evince the 
 extraordinary grandeur of their design and the rich- 
 ness of their decorations ; but Futtehpore Sikri, like 
 most other places of great celebrity in Hindostan, 
 has been so favourite a theme of modem travellers, 
 that a verbal description of it would only weary my 
 readers ; for, those who take a delight in the history 
 of the oriental world are doubtless already familiar 
 with the details of this famous place ; while, if I 
 attempted to describe them, those who are indifferent 
 to the subject would lay aside my volume with that 
 elusive and irretrievable declaration of distaste po- 
 litely and learnedly styled an oscitation, which goes 
 more bitterly to the heart of a presumptuous author 
 than the most poignant attacks of open censure. To 
 p 3
 
 162 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL, 
 
 those who are neither well acquainted with the won- 
 ders to which I refer, nor insensible to their merits, 
 if proved, I give this modest assurance, — that the 
 annexed plate is the finest illustration that could be 
 offered them, and more eloquent than a whole chapter 
 of words. It is a part of the ancient serai, and over- 
 looks the site of the arena, which was used by 
 the Emperors for chariot races and wild beast fights. 
 
 There is one curious fact in the history of the 
 great Akbur, which I have never met with in the 
 English language, and therefore I shall not hesitate 
 to introduce it here. Eminent as he really was, 
 both as a soldier and a statesman, Akbur was no less 
 skilled in the dark mysteries of the soothsayer. 
 Numerous are the accredited instances in which he 
 is stated to have divined with truth the most inscru- 
 table operations of fate, whole months before they 
 were open to the vulgar eye ; and to this day is dis- 
 played by the guides at Futtehpore Sikri the mystic 
 chamber, or rather the remnants of it, in which the 
 subtle secrets of the magic arts were practised by the 
 Emperor. It has been before remarked, that the 
 Brahmins have great pretensions to excellence in the 
 occult sciences; and, although he was the great 
 Mogul himself, to these heretics Akbur was pleased 
 to extend his especial patronage; he even con- 
 descended to admit them to his cedes sacra, when 
 their great proficiency entitled them to that honor. 
 To this rather than to his earth-bound svisdom, the
 
 .*
 
 FUTTEHPORE SIKRI. 163 
 
 Brahmins attribute his unbroken prosperity, during a 
 reign of peace and plenty, extending over half a 
 century. The miraculous tales which are told and 
 believed of Akbur and his school of soothsayers are, 
 as I said, innumerable, and certainly many are very 
 ingenious, and appear to carry with them very con- 
 vincing evidence of their truth. 
 
 Of all the dealers in magic throughout the Indian 
 Empire, those of Surat appear to have been most 
 celebrated ; and certainly some of their predictions 
 have been of that nature which at once confounds 
 the sceptic, and leaves him only the option of follow- 
 ing Addison's advice touching ghost stories. I can- 
 not answer for words, I quote them from memory — 
 " we must not entirely believe them, because they 
 may be false ; we must not altogether disbelieve 
 them, because they may be true." 
 
 A very scarce and curious work has just come into 
 my possession, entitled — " A Voyage to Suratt, in 
 the year 1689, by J. Covington, M.A., Chaplain to 
 his Majesty ; " a work which is highly complimented 
 in the Harleian Catalogue, Vol. II. p. 698. The 
 reader, I take for granted, will readily pardon ray 
 quoting a page or two from the quaintly written diary 
 of this reverend gentleman, recounting a very sin- 
 gular instance of circumstantial accuracy in one of 
 these prophets ; and after perusal, I doubt not but he 
 will join in the pretty things said to the author in
 
 164 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 an ode jDrefixed to the book, in which his friend as- 
 sures him, 
 
 " You have so lively your Discov'ries Writ, 
 We Reade and Voyage with you as we sit. 
 
 With you hoise Sail and reach the Indian Shoare ; 
 The reale Scene cou'd scarce delight us more." 
 
 " For A&trologie and Natural Physick," says our 
 ancient author, " the Ivdian Brahmins account 
 themselves still very eminent and renowned, by 
 which they foretel such distant Occurrences, and 
 effect such strong Operations as seem to Men very 
 wonderfull and astonishing, and not to be done 
 without some secret Recourse to the Invisible Spirits, 
 or familiaritie with Supernatural Powers, We 
 reade the same of some excellent ancient Philoso- 
 phers, so learn d in the Works of Nature as thereby 
 to point out the times both of Eclipses in the Pla- 
 nets and Commotions in the State, Earthquakes and 
 Inundations, Storms at Sea, and Plagues at Land. 
 And that the Reader may see that their extraordinary 
 Skill in magical Operations is not yet vanisht, I ivill 
 here relate a Story of them, which I remember was 
 often publickly repeated by the last President at Su- 
 ratt, Bartholomew Harris, concerning a certain Brah- 
 min, in the time of the Presidency of Mr. Aungers, 
 who foretold the Arrival of a certain English ship 
 several Months afore she came to the Harbour. 
 President Aungers being under a disturbance of his 
 mind, and oppress d ivith some perplext Thoughts for
 
 FUTTEHPORE SIKRI. 
 
 165 
 
 Want of Intelligence from England, was desired by 
 the Brahmin Physician, who observd his Grief and 
 the Melancholie of his Spirit, the Reason of his Con- 
 cern and dejected Looks, with a cheerfull Tender of 
 his Service aiid Willingness to administer to him in 
 anything that might contribute to the removal of his 
 Malady, and to his Cure. 
 
 " The President told him, that it tvas beyond the 
 Power of Physick to heal his Disease, or abate that 
 Distemper he laboured under; that no Cordial coud 
 revive Thoughts, but News from England, or cheer his 
 Heart, except it were the Sight of an English Ship, 
 which he had long expected, but noiv despaired of. 
 ' If an English Ship, then,' says the Brahmin, ' is 
 your only Cure, be pleased to give me Leave to be ab- 
 sent for three or four Days ! and I question not, by 
 that Time, but to remove your Trouble, and bring you 
 wndaubted News of that Medicine you long for. Upon 
 which the President consented to his departure for 
 that Time, and withal promised him, as an Encou- 
 ragement to his Skill, a rich Paramin, or Indian 
 Mantle, for a Reward. Within four Days the Brah- 
 min return d, and, addressing himself to the President, 
 assured him that, at such a Time, an English Ship 
 would arrive at Suratt Rivers Mouth, with such a 
 particular Person, ivho had formerly been in India, 
 on board her ; and that on such a particular Day of 
 the Month, he would arrive at the Custom-house of 
 Suratt, before Eleven in the Morning. The President, 
 pleas d with this Assurance and this confident Relation
 
 166 THE ORIENTAL AXNUAL. 
 
 of the Brahmin, diverted himself with the thoughts of 
 it for some time, and a little after, rehearsed it jocu- 
 larly, at a puhlick Dinner, to all the Factors, The 
 young Men who heard this Discourse, did, sometime 
 after, recollect with themselves, as they zvere walking 
 down the Banks of the River, to enjoy the Morning 
 Breeze, that this was the critical Morning foretold 
 by the Brahmin, when an English Ship should arrive, 
 and such a particular Person in her. The thoughts 
 of it hastened them back towards the Custom-house, to 
 enquire if there were any English News, and upon 
 their return were surprisd at the Sight of an English 
 Boat, which they espied was rowing up the River; 
 and, were no sooner arrived at the Custom-house, but 
 they found the Englishman, who had been expected, 
 in her. The News of this was very gratefull to the 
 President, and not ungratefull to the Brahmin, who 
 received a curious Paramin from the Hands of the 
 Governour, whom he had oblig'd with so faithful and 
 particular a Prophetick Relation. 
 
 " And the worthy President, Mr, Harris, ivho hud 
 himself been sometimes in Distress for English News, 
 has likewise told me of a Brahmin s Proposals to him, 
 of bringing him undoubted Intelligence how the Com- 
 pany's affairs in England stood, within the space of 
 four days ; but that he dared not to accept of the Pro- 
 position, because he was confident that it depended 
 upon the Assistance of a Familiar, And surely those 
 Sprightly Beings can easily despatch a very tedious
 
 FUTTEHPORE SIKRI. 167 
 
 Voyage in a very short time. Far if we only consider 
 the nimble Progress of Light through the Air — icith 
 what Swiftness it darts its bright active Atoms from 
 East to West, and flies through the immense Expanse 
 from the lofty Regions of the Sky, we cannot ivith any 
 great Reason deny this same, or greater Power to the 
 active Spirits of Darkness, tvho are stript of all the 
 Clogs of Matter, and void of all material Substance^ 
 I could have presented the reader with anecdotes of 
 the same description, which far surj)ass the foregoing 
 in the wonders of magical power ; but since they are 
 attested by natives, not by European governors, pre- 
 sidents, and chaplains, of His Britannic Majesty, I 
 thought it possible that, in this matter-of-fact age, 
 they might have been contemptuously treated as idle 
 inventions, or, at least, have been regarded with unme- 
 rited suspicion. For the same reason, I have not 
 ventured to detail the rites and ceremonies, the canta- 
 tions and incantations, which have been described to 
 me, as the means by which this supernatural know- 
 ledge is acquired. That vile impostors have, at various 
 times^ brought evil report upon the art by pretend- 
 ing to its mysteries, cannot be contradicted; but 
 surely it has been so with all other arts and mysteries 
 from the days of Noah downwards; and with deference 
 it is submitted, that this very circumstance is, in 
 reality, a compliment to the genuine science, rather 
 than a disgrace to it ; for the impostor certainly will 
 not assume the colours of that in which there is no
 
 168 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 virtue. Others there are, however, whose conduct has 
 tended greatly to overthrow the public faith in these 
 matters ; those who, for the accomplishment of sinis- 
 ter purposes, have allowed and encouraged a false 
 belief, that they were in communion with, and in the 
 enjoyment of, supernatural powers from spirits of an- 
 other world, until the deceit has been discovered. 
 By the fraudulent behaviour of two such persons, not 
 long since, was the simple credulity of the people 
 abused, and discredit for a while befel magic and the 
 magicians in all the country round about Futtehpore 
 Sikri, and Agra. 
 
 Trusting that my readers are disposed to be en- 
 tertained with this very curious subject, I shall in 
 few words relate the circumstance here alluded to, 
 begging them to rely upon my assurance that the 
 story — even if it be by wilful misrepresentation or 
 accidental misconception, by an over-anxiety for the 
 full display of truth, or the insensible influence of the 
 imagination, in any measure embellished — is never- 
 theless founded upon fact, built with the materials of 
 original reality, and its base supported by the most 
 substantial testimony. 
 
 I have noticed the wild romantic appearance of 
 the range of hills upon which Futtehpore Sikri is 
 elevated ; and certainly no place could be more ap- 
 propriate to the dark and mysterious tales of magic, 
 or the deeds of carnage and intrigues of a bloody and 
 despotic court, than the interminable ruins of forts
 
 FUTTEHPORE SIKRI. 169 
 
 and tombs which are scattered in all directions along 
 the chain. The plate gives a representation of the 
 country on the south of the Biana range between 
 Futtehpore Sikri and Agra, and not far from the 
 scene of the story which I am about to relate. 
 
 Among the ruins here alluded to are those of an 
 ancient mausoleum, commonly known by the name of 
 
 THE JAOD BHAE ; 
 
 though why so called none can explain, since the 
 extreme antiquity of the building has left, neither by 
 history nor tradition, any account or fair conjecture ol 
 its origin, the date of its construction, or of the rank 
 or nation of him in honor of whom it was erected. 
 From time immemorial it continued to be the resort 
 of the rehgious, both among Hindoos and Mussul- 
 mans, who worshipped the unknown saint with equal 
 devotion, until the occurrence of which I am about to 
 speak raised in their minds some awkward appre- 
 hensions lest the place should happen to be tenanted 
 by a race of spirits inimicable to those whom they 
 were accustomed to invoke within its walls. 
 
 The Jaod Bhae, though by no means an extensive 
 building, was of eleiDhantine stability, upon the plan 
 of an octagon, having a solitary chamber within, the 
 breadth of which was something less than the thick- 
 ness of its walls, and these were very many feet of 
 solid masonry. It was raised upon a terrace about 
 five feet in height, and was covered by a massive 
 Q
 
 170 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 dome, moss-grown and blackened with age, but still 
 unimpaired in strength. The lower parts of the 
 structure alone showed symptoms of decay, a foot or 
 two of solid masonry having been eaten away all 
 round the base by damp and corrosion, or worn by 
 the touch of the devotees, who according to the 
 accounts of the natives have continued their visits to 
 it through thousands of successive generations. 
 
 Dark and mysteiious was the place within; the 
 foot-fall was re-echoed ten thousand times with hol- 
 low reverberations, and the voice was carried circling 
 up to the vaulted roof in solemn swells of most un- 
 earthly sound, which could not fail to startle the 
 intruder and make him strive to penetrate with 
 curious eye the impervious gloom which filled the 
 lofty dome. Bats and noisome reptiles, hitherto un- 
 seen, revealed themselves the instant they were dis- 
 turbed by the entrance of a visitor ; and it required 
 no small nerve there to remain and keep the mind 
 intent upon devotion, while repeating even a short 
 prayer, amid the hissing of snakes, the loathsome 
 creeping of lizards, the screaming and flapping of 
 vampires, and the concerted accompaniment of innu- 
 merable obnoxious vermin ; and yet thousands there 
 were who braved all these terrors to seek favor of this 
 saint unknown. 
 
 Four or five years since two soldiers of the East 
 India Company's European Regiment who were 
 then cantoned at Agra applied to their commanding
 
 rUTTEHPORE SIKRI. 171 
 
 officer for leave of absence from their military duties 
 for a few days, upon the 2Dlea of seeking for some 
 treasure among the ruins in the neighbourhood, 
 affirming that they had certain intelligence of a spot 
 where it could be found. It being by no means of 
 rare occurrence that coin and valuables, even to a 
 veiy large amount, are found among the crumbling 
 tombs and palaces, and the men being of good cha- 
 racter, the commanding officer acceded to their re- 
 quest, they obtained a fortnight's leave of absence, 
 and departed, nobody knew or enquired whither. At 
 the expiration of their term of absence they returned 
 to their duty, but without having made the discovery 
 of which they had declared themselves so sanguine ; 
 yet having conducted themselves well, as far as was 
 known, during their period of leave, they found no 
 difficulty in renewing it shortly afterwards. On the 
 expiration of their liberty, however, they were this 
 time at fault; they did not rejoin the ranks, nor 
 were any tidings to be gained of them among their 
 comrades. Orders were issued for their apprehension, 
 as deserters, and parties searched the ruins in all 
 directions, yet no news could be gleaned of them by 
 any means: no one had seen or heard of them. 
 
 Some weeks after the disappearance of these men it 
 was reported among the natives that the saint whom 
 they were accustomed to worship at the Jaod Bhae 
 had become disturbed by some misconduct or sacri- 
 legious transgression of the people, for that in more 
 Q 2
 
 172 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 than one instance, lately, strange noises, as of anger, 
 and of fiend-like laughter and mockery, had been 
 heard by the devotees within the chamber, so that 
 they became exceedingly temfied, and dared not to 
 venture there, except in company of the priests and 
 holy men. 
 
 One evening as a party of women, carrying upon 
 their heads large bundles of raw cotton, chanced to 
 pass the Jaod Bhae after dusk, a tall figure wrapt in 
 a black mantle suddenly appeared in the very midst 
 of them. The terror-stricken females for a second 
 were rooted to the spot, their breath suspended, their 
 eyes starting from the sockets, as they gazed upon 
 the cadaverous and earth-stained visage of their super- 
 natural visitor. Then with a simultaneous shriek 
 they dropped their bhojes and fled, with scared and 
 trembling steps, in all directions over the ruins. When, 
 — by devious routes over the wild and desolate plain, 
 their speed continually increased as each successive 
 heap of ruins became peopled with the ghastly 
 creatures of their afiiighted fancies, — they at last 
 arrived at home, and told their piteous tale to their 
 husbands, the men were distressed at the loss of the 
 cotton, and were inclined to think that their timid 
 partners had been needlessly alarmed by suddenly 
 encountering some wandering fakhir among the 
 tombs : they therefore determined upon setting forth 
 in a body to the place, in order to bring home the
 
 FUTTEHPORE SIKRI. 173 
 
 cotton ; yet not without a reverend Brahmin, who 
 would be able to protect them against ghostly evil, 
 and also a band of the city tchokedars (watchmen) 
 to guard them against danger to their bodies. The 
 night having closed in with heavy clouds betokening 
 a storm, the party thought it advisable to carry 
 torches, lest in the unusual darkness of the night they 
 should be unable to discover the cotton, or to distin- 
 guish by their characteristic features the beings of the 
 three different worlds, should they meet with either. 
 
 They lit their torches therefore, and having armed 
 themselves with swords and weighty clubs of bamboo 
 shod with iron, they set forth upon their search in 
 silence, composing a party of about twenty. Scarcely 
 a word was spoken on the road, except by the 
 Brahmin, who alone preserved a face unmoved by the 
 fear of supernatural danger ; each appeared absorbed 
 in his own speculations, except when occasionally the 
 exclamation of one or more of their number called 
 the attention of the rest to a solitary pillar, or a dis- 
 membered stump of wood, assuming all the terrors 
 of ghostly animation in the fluctuating glare of the 
 ruddy torch-light. As they journeyed onward the 
 wind rose and moaned among the blackened walls and 
 towers of the tottering ruins; now and then a heavy 
 drop of rain fell hissing upon the flaring torches, 
 and the inky clouds appeared to gather from all 
 quarters of the heavens ; but the natives of India 
 Q 3
 
 174 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 are for the most part wonderfully indifferent to storm 
 and tempest, and at first scarcely a remark was made 
 upon the subject. Ere long, however, it became 
 apparent that no ordinary storm was pending, for, as 
 it often happens before very terrible hurricanes in 
 the East, the fitful sighing of the breeze was suddenly 
 lulled, and was succeeded by a sultry calm, — the 
 leaden clouds dropped nearer to the earth, and 
 seemed to compress the sluggish atmosphere with their 
 superincumbent weight, until it became almost too 
 dense for respiration. The threatening aspect of 
 nature alarmed all living things around ; the yelling 
 jackall and the screaming night-birds vied with one 
 another in raising an ominous discord, which not the 
 calmest stoic could listen to without forebodings of 
 evil, and which even the wandering cattle and skulk- 
 ing paria dogs understood as warnings, and forthwith 
 betook themselves to the covered tombs. 
 
 The party in search of the cotton had arrived 
 within a short distance of the Jaod Bhae, when a crim- 
 son flash of almost blinding light was suddenly darted 
 from the impending clouds, and appeared to be the 
 signal for the war of elements to commence, for, 
 with the crashing peal of thunder which imme- 
 diately followed it, there burst upon them a gust of 
 wind so violent that not only were their torches ex- 
 tinguished in a second, but themselves were well nigh 
 carried away, so that they all threw themselves upon 
 the earth to avoid the danger; and in the next instant,
 
 FUTTEHPORE SIKRI. 175 
 
 torrents of sulphurous rain gushed from the broken 
 clouds. A pitchy darkness enveloped them, and the 
 Brahmin ^visely counselled that, when the light 
 nings again revealed the scene, they should look out 
 in all directions for some building, in which they 
 might shelter themselves, until the violence of the 
 hiurricane had abated. At that very instant, a flash, 
 if possible more vivid than the former, shot in zig- 
 zag courses from the zenith to every point of the ho- 
 rizon, and continued for several seconds playing with 
 fearful brilliancy over the whole country round. Not 
 twenty yards in front of them stood the frowning form 
 of the Jaod Bhae; between themselves and the build- 
 ing was plainly revealed to every man among them 
 the figure of a being precisely such as had been de- 
 scribed by the affrighted women, and, upon its head, it 
 carried one of the identical bhojes of cotton. '' Thieves ! 
 thieves ! " " Choar-log ! choar! " roared the tchokedars, 
 as, sword in hand, they started to their feet, and 
 rushed upon the figure ; but, for a second, impene- 
 trable darkness had again surrounded them, and 
 though, with the velocity of thought, the flashes were 
 renewed, the man, or spirit, whichever it might be, 
 and the bale of cotton, had vanished, though he 
 seemed almost within the grasp of their extended 
 hands. No cover was there at that spot where he 
 could lie concealed, even if there had been time to 
 have fled a pace or two : the space was open, and 
 though strewed with fallen masonry and heaps of
 
 176 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 Stones, and here and there overrun with weeds and 
 dwarf shrubs, there was no sort of escape for flesh 
 and blood. No chink or cranny, no trace of foot- 
 steps, no vestige of the cotton, no clue to the mystery 
 could they discover ; and while they were occupied 
 upon the fruitless search, unwelcome thoughts were 
 suggested to their minds, and the trembling knees of 
 several refused to support their bodies ; so they fell to 
 the earth, and prayed for daivai, mercy, to the saint 
 of the awful Jaod Bhae ; until the Brahmin, by a 
 strenuous effort, having regained possession of a 
 portion of his wits, arose, and with a less boisterous 
 devotion than that of some around him, pronounced, 
 or endeavoured so to do, a saving verse from the 
 Shastra, and then somewhat more articulately de- 
 siring them to follow him, without farther ceremony, 
 he led the way back to the city. 
 
 By virtue of the spell which the holy man had thus 
 used to preserve them from destruction, they arrived 
 safely at home, and having assembled a tolerablynume- 
 rous party around the fire which burnt upon the floor, 
 in the centre of the guard-room in the city gate, the 
 reverend priest, with a calm unshaken voice, related the 
 awful upshot of their excursion, and being unwilling 
 to declare himself to the people, as to his knowledge 
 concerning the things which they had witnessed, with- 
 out first consulting his brother Brahmins, he retired to 
 his temple, and there, in conclave with those holy men, 
 repeated all, and required their opinions. Whatever
 
 FUTTEHPORE SIKRI. 
 
 miglit have been the result of their deliberations, we 
 should not endeavour to pry into the mysterious 
 workings of that sacred assembly ; suffice it that the 
 issue be made known. After the morning prayers and 
 ablutions on the Jumna bank, the grave priests sum- 
 moned the expectant crowds to hear what they had 
 to say, and after confessing that the night had been 
 spent in prayer and ceremony, they also admitted that 
 they had been unable to divine the exact nature of 
 the saint's inquietude, but that they had been favored 
 with his commands to attend at the Jaod Bhae at 
 noon-day, and perform certain mystic ceremonies, 
 when it was more than probable that they should 
 hear his farther pleasure. 
 
 Carrying with them holy fire and Ganges' sacred 
 water, the priests, attended by a vast concourse of 
 people, arrived at the Jaod Bhae shortly before 
 noon ; having made every necessary preparation they 
 retired within the building precisely at the appoint- 
 ed hour, and carefully closing the entrances with 
 mats provided for that purpose, they remained in 
 consultation with the saint until sun-set ; during the 
 whole of which time thick clouds of smoke issued 
 from the Jaod Bhae, and at intervals the most un- 
 earthly noises were heard, accompanied with cries, 
 screams, and piteous groans, which caused the 
 terrified people to fall upon their faces in an agony 
 of fear and trembling. 
 
 As the sun first touched the horizon, the smoke
 
 178 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 ceased to ascend, and then the venerable priests with 
 hair dishevelled, with wild and harassed looks, appeared 
 before the multitude. " Children," cried the chief of 
 them, with iriumph beaming in his aged countenance ; 
 ** My Children, by extraordinary exertions, by means 
 of potent charms and obscure rites which we have 
 received from the gods themselves, by fearful penance, 
 and the most painful self-inflictions, we have at last com- 
 pelled the unwilling spirit to make known to us the cause 
 of his teiTible perturbation ; but this we are unable to 
 reveal ; and all that it concerns you to know is, how to 
 appease the vnrath of the offended saint, and gain for 
 yourselves the favour of his protection and support. Let 
 every man who is anxious to obtain this advantage to his 
 soul, and a similar advancement in his worldly welfare, 
 on the evening of each successive new moon advance 
 boldly to the entrance of the Jaod Bhae, and cast 
 within the chamber a piece of pure silver coin, no mat- 
 ter how small ; and this his offering to the saint will 
 be repaid to him by the gods a thousand-fold. Our 
 blessing too upon those who give heed to our words, 
 but dire curses will assuredly overtake those who 
 shall dare to defy his revealed commands." 
 
 These mysterious occurrences created uneasy fears 
 in the liearts of the former worshippers of the saint, 
 which were strengthened by the strange tales of noises 
 and apparitions from time to time encountered 
 in the neighbourhood of the Jaod Bhae; so that the 
 place was altogether avoided by the people, except
 
 FUTTEHPORE SIKRI. 179 
 
 when they went monthly to make their offerings, and 
 then it was with becoming dread and reverence. 
 
 Now the Jaod Bhae stood very near the annual 
 encampment and practice-ground of the Artillery ; and 
 it so happened, that upon the occasion of a review and 
 general inspection, the Jaod Bhae attracted the irreli- 
 gious notice of a certain Artillery oflScer, who, through 
 a culpable love of mischief, an inordinate delight in 
 the display of the force of powder, and a very iniqui- 
 tous process of reasoning, came to the conclusion that 
 it would have an unusually grand effect to mine and 
 blow up the Jaod Bhae, rather than to perform the 
 simple operation of igniting some fifty or sixty barrels 
 of powder under the level earth. The idea was sugges- 
 ted to the commanding officer, who, by a like evil 
 influence, came to a similarly wicked opinion, and it 
 was agi'eed that the mining of the Jaod Bhae would 
 indeed form a glorious spectacle at the review. Orders 
 were therefore immediately issued for a shaft to be 
 sunk below the foundation, and a mine of five-and- 
 forty barrels of powder to be prepared under its very 
 centi'e, so that the whole building might be blown into 
 the skies. 
 
 The task proved to be one of greater difficulty than 
 was anticipated, for beneath the soil was discovered a 
 vaulted mass of solid masonry, which proved to be no 
 less than four or five feet in thickness, and so firmly con- 
 structed that not a single stone could be moved entire, 
 but the shaft was literally carved through it. At the
 
 180 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 point where the miners penetrated, they found a nar- 
 row passage running east and west, just large enough 
 to admit a man of moderate size. It was unencum- 
 bered and in complete repair, and on being explored 
 was found to communicate with other galleries of the 
 same description leading in a transverse direction, and 
 each was found to open into a small apartment under 
 the body of the building. In the centre room was 
 found a rough sort of round table wdth a couple of 
 settles, and on either side a tolerably comfortable bed 
 of raw cotton, an old straw hat, a clasp knife, a 
 small German pipe, an iron ladle, in which metal had 
 been melted, a few small files and other tools, such as 
 are used in coining, and a little bag containing some 
 unfinished imitations of rupees. Some few trifles of 
 the same description were also discovered in different 
 corners and recesses of the vault, and also a supply of 
 tobacco and spirits. 
 
 There was no hesitation in at once attaching suspicion 
 of very recent occupancy of these snug quarters to the 
 two men of the European Regiment who had deserted; 
 and deeming it probable that they might make their 
 appearance to clear away all vestiges of their illicit 
 trade, as soon as they should hear of the mining oper- 
 ations which were going forward, the officer gave or- 
 ders for a guard to be secreted in the building, to keep 
 watch during the night. 
 
 It so happened, I suppose by a private arrange- 
 ment of the saint, that this very night was that of the
 
 FUTTEHPORE SIKRI. 
 
 181 
 
 new moon, and the dusk of evening had scarcely 
 fallen, when the Jaod Bhae was visited by the first 
 devout observer of the Brahmin's commands; and, 
 having cast, with a hasty hand, his piece of silver, a 
 four-anna-piece, within the doorway, he turned and 
 beat a somewhat precipitate retreat. But the serjeant 
 of the ambuscade having picked up the coin, naturally 
 concluded that the donor must be a confederate of the 
 coiners, and without turning out his men, he immedi- 
 ately stole after the retiring Hindoo, and seized him ; 
 stopping his mouth with his hand, to prevent alarm. 
 He then conveyed him to the vault beneath the Jaod 
 Bhae; the poor wretch, without doubt, being per- 
 suaded all the time that he was about to be sacrificed 
 to the offended saint. The serjeant in his turn, when 
 he came to examine the man, mistook him for an 
 accomplished villain, who, like all natives, had an 
 ingenious excuse at his tongue's end, ready for any 
 emergency; he therefore gagged him, and binding 
 him hand and foot, left him upon his back in the 
 coiner's chamber ; and thus one after another, he con- 
 tinued to seize no less than a dozen of these poor 
 innocent people, including some few women ; until at 
 last they arrived in such numbers, that he was unwil- 
 ling to take charge of any more, and began to give 
 some credence to the story which each told, and was 
 ready to swear to. So he contented himself with 
 those whom he had already taken, and continued his 
 watch throughout the night, without meeting those 
 
 R
 
 182 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 for whose capture he was set. But ahout an hour or 
 two before daylight, he made a prize of another, 
 whom he had ah'eady expected. Havmg sent his men 
 below, he remained himself upon the look out, and at 
 the time just mentioned, he saw a tall white figure 
 approaching, who no sooner entered the building than 
 he drew from his mantle a small lamp, which he 
 forthwith lighted, and carefully gathered up every 
 fraction of the silver from the floor. When he had 
 completed his task, and was about to depart, the Ser- 
 jeant stepped forth from his hiding place, and took 
 him also prisoner. Then caiTying him below, he 
 confronted him with his dupes, and exposed him to 
 them. 
 
 In the morning, he was taken before the officer, 
 with the rest of the captives, and after a strict exami- 
 nation, during which he adhered to the most bare- 
 faced untruths, and endeavoured, by all sorts of inven- 
 tions, to deceive his hearers, he, at last, by dint of 
 threats, and promises of security, was induced to con- 
 fess the impositions which his colleagues had practised 
 vLliOu the multitude, when they pretended to consult 
 with the saint, and their utter ignorance of any true 
 system of magic.
 
 183 
 
 GOKUL. 
 
 Upon the east bank of the river Jamna, about fifteen 
 miles below the city and cantonment of Muttra, stands 
 a small town named Gokul, esteemed peculiarly 
 sacred among the pious Hindoos, in consequence of 
 its having been a favorite resort of the god Krishna 
 while he was on earth. Krishna was born at Bin- 
 drabund, which is about as far above Muttra as 
 Gokul is below it ; and these three places were fortu- 
 nate enough to enjoy the presence of the god during 
 the greater part of his sojourn among men, which 
 occurred about 1300 years before Christ. Here the 
 solemn Brahmin points out a spot where the deity 
 played a tune upon his flute which gave life to the 
 stones and trees around him;* here he shows the 
 worn and polished root of a tree where the god was 
 wont to seat himself while singing songs of love to 
 the wood-nymphs and the milk-maids ; here a patch 
 
 * Krishna is the Apollo of the Hindoos. 
 R 2
 
 184 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 of ground which has remained barren ever since 
 Krishna, while standing there, had cause for anger ; 
 there a smooth rock upon the river bank where he 
 was in the habit of washing his dhoti, and there a 
 hill upon which he was accustomed to receive and 
 cure all who were afflicted by disease or mental 
 suffering. These were the more playful acts of 
 Krishna, for Gokul was the resort of his leisure 
 hours; it was in Bindrabund and Muttra that his 
 more terrible deeds were executed, such as the de- 
 struction of the vile serpent of evil. Kali Nagur, 
 which had thrown itself in coils across the river 
 Jumna and stopped the course of the waters, so that 
 those who were not killed through thirst died of the 
 poisonous impurity of the stream, and many other 
 equally redoubtable acts which are the theme of song 
 and fable in all these parts. There are in particular 
 two spots of broken ground which are pointed out to 
 the inquisitive visitor as of very especial interest, 
 having been formerly the site of two trees, the 
 Jemla and the Aijia, concerning which the following 
 
 LEGEND 
 
 is related with great reverence, as recording one of 
 the earliest of Krishna's god-like acts, while he was 
 yet but the infant son of a cow-herd. 
 
 Some few hundreds of years before Krishna was 
 born, a fanner of considerable wealth had two re- 
 markably handsome sons, by name Neeld and Kho-
 
 GOKUL. 185 
 
 veri, who sadly neglected the luanagement of the 
 land and of the herds and flocks, in consequence of 
 their attention heing constantly attracted hy the 
 veiy beautiful women who inhabited this part of the 
 country. The father having tried chastisement re- 
 peatedly and in vain, complained of his misfortune 
 to the principal Brahmin of the place, a very ve- 
 nerable and wise man, named Nared ; and this holy 
 person undertook to reprove them for their want of duty 
 and to punish them if they heeded him not. Having 
 formed this resolution, Nared accompanied the farmer 
 to the fields to seek for his sons, and found them 
 reclining upon a flowery bank by the side of the Jumna, 
 each extolling the perfections of the beauty who had 
 gained the ascendant in his affections. The re- 
 verend Brahmin hesitated not to remonstrate angrily 
 with them concerning their idleness, and endeavoured 
 to impress upon them that being already betrothed to 
 damsels whom they had not seen, they were guilty 
 of great imprudence in suffering their affections to 
 be enslaved by girls who were so greatly their in- 
 feriors in degree, and whose beauty was beheld by 
 every passer by, since it is the custom of the lower 
 orders to walk unveiled. The reprobate youths, in- 
 stead of receiving with respect and submission the 
 reproof of the holy man, laughed aloud at this lecture, 
 and bid him go preach to the cows ; at which 
 indignity the Brahmin became so justly incensed 
 that he hesitated not to inflict upon them such a 
 R 3
 
 186 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 punishment as he thought they merited. Dii)ping 
 his fingers in the lota (small brass pot) in which he 
 carried some holy Ganges water, he sprinkled the 
 youths therewith, and uttering a curse, exclaimed, 
 " In the name of Brahma I command thee to quit 
 thy forms as young men and become trees." On 
 that very instant the youths became the one a jemla, 
 the other an arjia tree. Then the devout Brahmin 
 taking some of the Ganges water in his mouth 
 spirted it upon the trunks of the trees saying, " Thus 
 be thou firm and unmoved, until, by Brahma's per- 
 mission, thou shall kiss the feet of the holy child 
 Krishna." And during some hundreds of years the 
 trees remained unmoved. 
 
 Krishna having been born, had anived at the age 
 of three years, when one day he was clinging to his 
 mother's neck while she was occupied in turning some 
 cream into butter; and while her hands were thus 
 employed, it happened that a pot of milk, which was 
 upon the fire, boiled over, whereupon the mother 
 hastily put down Krishna, and ran to take oflf the 
 pot. The young god was mortified at this action, 
 which indisputably proved that his mother loved the 
 milk better than himself; ai:d thus tliinking, in the 
 anger of the moment, he kicked over the pot of milk, 
 upset the pan of cream, and ran away, his mother 
 pursuing him, till she was quite weary. Then the 
 sweet boy, having repented of his momentary display 
 of temper, ran into his mother's arms, and begged
 
 GOKUL. 187 
 
 her forgiveness ; but his mother being wroth, regarded 
 not his contrition, but carried him into the village, 
 and having procured some string, endeavoured to bind 
 him to two trees, which stood by the river side; but 
 Krishna being still full of sport, showed her that all 
 the cord which she could obtain from the rope-makers 
 was not long enough to bind him, until he was pleased 
 topennit it. Then, being inclined to liberate himself 
 after his mother had departed, he planted his foot 
 firmly against the ground, and, with god-like strength, 
 tore up the trees by the roots. Now, at this time 
 there were great numbers of children playing around 
 and making sport of the chastised Krishna, but im- 
 mediately upon the miraculous fall of those trees, 
 they became greatly alarmed, and the more so, when, 
 as the earth trembled, the prostrate trees were in a 
 moment transformed into two very beautiful youths, 
 who laid their heads in the dust in token of reve- 
 rence, and then kissing the feet of the young god, 
 suddenly vanished. This report of the children was 
 not however at that time believed by the ignorant men 
 of Gokul, who thought of the fall of those trees only 
 as a miraculous escape of the boy from being crushed, 
 and Krishna himself was too nobly modest to boast 
 of his performance. 
 
 Gokul, though so peculiarly sanctified a spot, and 
 in truth a remarkably picturesque one, has no sort of 
 importance in wealth, or commerce, or extent of ha- 
 bitations ; there are however a great number of
 
 188 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 Hindoo temples, and not a few very handsome ghdts, 
 such as may be seen in the annexed plate. The 
 Brahmins appeared to me to be more than usually civil 
 and ready to give information, and I experienced no dif- 
 ficulty in gaining access to the interiors of the principal 
 temples, an indulgence which is not always allowed. 
 There was very little however to gratify the curiosity 
 in any of them, and like most other Hindoo towns, 
 although particularly attractive to behold at a dis- 
 tance, there was a squalid misery and a want of clean- 
 liness about the place, which induces the visitor to 
 make his visit as short as possible. The sketch was 
 taken from the parapet of one of the ghdts, while 
 the sun was declining towards the west : the scene 
 as I beheld it was bathed in a flood of light, yet not 
 wanting in a few points of powerful shadow, which 
 gave an effect to the picture, which is the continual 
 delight of the artist in India when evening is ad- 
 vancing. I am sure the good taste of my readers 
 will render it unnecessary that I should pay any com- 
 pliment to the artist, who has so admirably transcribed 
 my sketch. The power of daylight which he has 
 thrown into the scene is but a specimen of the pe- 
 culiar beauty of his style. Hitherto I have spoken 
 only of the mythological history of Gokul ; 
 
 " Whilst in charm 'd Gokul's od'rous vale 
 The blue eyed Yamuna * descends 
 
 * Yamuna— the Jumna. Sir W. Jones's translation of the Sanskrit.
 
 GOKUL. 189 
 
 Exulting, and her tripping tide suspends. 
 The triumph of her mightv sire to hail ;" 
 
 but it has likewise become memorable as the scene of 
 an action in which the celebrated Begum Sumroo exhi- 
 bited her spirit and her personal prowess, as the victo- 
 rious leader of her own troops, at a moment so critical 
 that, without her timely intei-position and personal 
 example, the indecision of the Emperor Shah Aulum 
 would have terminated in the defeat and disfirrace of 
 
 o 
 
 his army. 
 
 Neujif Kahn, having acted in open defiance of the 
 Emperor's authority, threw his little army of veterans 
 into the fort of Gokul to avoid or resist the resentment 
 of his prince. He was called upon to surrender, but 
 peremptorily refused to do so, and made active prepa- 
 rations for his defence. Around the little fort the re- 
 bel threw up strong entrenchments sufficient for the 
 protection of his whole force, and having by every 
 means in his power fortified his position, he coolly 
 awaited the advance of the royal army, which was very 
 greatly superior in numerical strength to his own. 
 Neujif Kahn had often proved himself a soldier of 
 great coolness and vigilance, and his men reposed the 
 the fullest confidence in his skill and courage : they 
 repulsed with astonishing vigour the attack of the royal 
 army and made considerable havoc among them. 
 
 Having been engaged in the lines all day, Neujif 
 Kahn pennitted his men an hour or two of repose in
 
 190 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL, 
 
 the early part of the night, but at midnight he 
 quietly summoned every man to his post, and putting 
 himself at the head of a chosen body of cavalry, he 
 stole unheard and unseen from his entrenchments, and 
 fell with great fury upon the enemy's troops while 
 they were buried in sleep. Having on the first onset 
 carried the lines, he commenced a cruel slaughter of 
 the panic-stricken troops ; and having despatched a 
 detachment of infantry and artillery to the roar of the 
 lines by a circuitous route, the royal tents were attacked 
 at the same moment. 
 
 The confusion was becoming general, and the 
 troops would have fled in all directions, but appeared, 
 in the disorder, to meet their foes on all sides. The 
 person of the Emperor was in imminent peril from 
 the fire which was kept up upon the royal tents, 
 and a complete overthrow would have been the speedy 
 result, had not the Begum Sumroo, acting in the 
 spirit of the oriental maxim, " Fear when danger 
 is distant, when present fight like heroes," with unex- 
 ampled address and corn-age, made a strenuous effort 
 to rally the royal troops. In order to render their 
 mutual positions intelligible, she with great presence 
 of mind set fire to a number of tents and other com- 
 bustible matter, and then putting herself at the head 
 of her troops, despatched a messenger to the Emperor 
 begging him to repair to her tents which were out 
 of reach of the enemy's battery, while she with one 
 hundred followers, and a single six pounder, which
 
 GOKUL. J91 
 
 was commanded by George Thomas, afterwards a 
 general in the service, attacked the rebels with such 
 determination and so much judgment that with this 
 small force she speedily drove them from the lines 
 and restored order to the dispersed troops of the 
 Emperor. The contest was continued with desperate 
 determination on both sides for some time, and great 
 numbers fell, among whom were several distinguished 
 officers; but the gallant and judicious conduct of the 
 Begum compelled the rebels to retire within their 
 works. Thus was the royal army, and also the life 
 of the Emperor, saved by the intrepidity and skill of 
 a woman.* 
 
 * I have recently given a sketch of the history of this extraordinary 
 lady in the work before mentioned — " First Impressions," &c., but this 
 passage has not been introduced, or I should not have given it a place 
 in these pages .
 
 192 
 
 HURDWAR. 
 
 TEMPLES OF MAHADEO — THE GHAT. 
 
 Following the sinuous course of the Ganges about 
 fifteen hundred miles from its many mouths, the 
 traveller will arrive at the boundaries of a country 
 far famed for its romantic beauties and its delightful 
 climate ; the valley of Dehra Dhoon. It is guarded 
 on the south by the rugged mountains of the Sivalic 
 range, and on the north it is shut out from the rest 
 of the world by the sacred pinnacles of the cloud- 
 piercing Himalas; through its immeasured forests 
 and varied undulations flow the holy streams of the 
 Jumna and the Ganges, and every here and there 
 the soft repose of the scene is relieved by pretty villa- 
 ges dotted along the river bank, or spai'kling out from 
 the shady foot of some tower-crowned hill. It forms 
 precisely that style of scenery which the natives (sen- 
 sible of its charms and delighting to enhance them) 
 select for the resort of nymphs and deities. It is com-
 
 HURDWAR. 193 
 
 iQonly said that the Hindoos are indifferent to the 
 fascinations of the picturesque, but in truth it is far 
 otherwise. Without erudition and refinement there 
 is seldom any very quick susceptibility of the charming 
 and the grand in nature, and therefore it would 
 be absurd to look for the same degree of admiration 
 in the untaught savage as is exhibited by the educated 
 of our countrymen ; at the same time they have 
 perhaps more than is possessed by the lower orders 
 of the Europeans; and among the high-bom and 
 cultivated Hindoos I have witnessed the most ex- 
 pressive rapture at the sight of sublime or of homely- 
 beautiful scenery. Their writings abound with 
 descriptions of landscape ; the following quotation 
 will give evidence of their taste. It is from the 
 Bushanda Bamaian. 
 
 " In the far recesses of the scented valley of Dwa- 
 rak rises, in soft and delicate outline, the air-fraught 
 image of the azure mountain, like a celestial spirit 
 assuming the garb of visible substance. Lo ! how 
 the gods have crowned their favomite with a dazzling 
 circlet of gold and silver, sun and snow; and in a 
 rich mantle of crimson and green, studded with myriad 
 coloured gems, have altered its gi'aceful forms. The 
 s3iCTed peeple and byr drop glittering honey from their 
 pendent leaves, and the gathering rills have spread 
 themselves in a shining lake, like diamonds of exqui- 
 site brilliancy, that they may together delight them- 
 selves with sleepy pastime in the cool shadow. From
 
 194 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 the gushing wells a thousand quivering streams dash 
 down the variegated cliffs, formed and transfonned into 
 ten thousand clustering glohules of countless hues, like 
 Amrit's luscious fruits, when shaken from the rolling 
 car of Suria : thousands of eager hirds warble forth 
 rapturous lays among the branches, which stretch to 
 bathe in the delicious waters." Here the poet displays 
 at least a full appreciation of nature's beauty, and 
 if there were no response in the minds of his readers 
 we should not so continually find his words in their 
 mouths. 
 
 I have transcribed the above passage not only to 
 coiToborate my opinion, but also for the purpose of 
 rendering unnecessary any farther eulogiums upon 
 the charms of the spot to which I am desirous of 
 introducing the reader. 
 
 Just where the Ganges, struggling through the Si- 
 valic mountains, pours her stream upon the plains of 
 Hindostan, is situated the holy town of Hurdwar, a 
 place of unequalled sanctity among the Hindoos. To 
 its temples pilgrims resort from every corner of the 
 East where Hindooism is known ; and of such excel- 
 lent virtue is the holy water at this particular spot, 
 that however impure, however sinful, or deeply dyed 
 with crime, a single ablution will purge from all ; pro- 
 vided only that sufficient gold be given to the gods. 
 This gold — no baser metal has sufficient virtue — must 
 be dropped in the river at the time of prayer, and the 
 Brahmins are the only people who have the privilege
 
 HURDWAR. 195 
 
 of di'aining the sands to search for those few pieces 
 which the gods are pleased to leave them as a reward 
 for their services ; and when it is understood that at 
 the mela, or annual gi'and festival, the influx of pil- 
 grims is from three hundred thousand to a million of 
 souls, it will he credited that an extraordinary amount 
 of treasure is collected by these devotees. 
 
 Charity of this description is inculcated as the first 
 virtue. A gold mohur, so bestowed, will absolve from 
 the darkest crime as effectually as the severest course 
 of penance ; and a bestowal of such offerings will enable 
 a man to continue in the most diabolical practices with 
 impunity. In expiation of any deep offence, the 
 Brahmins sometimes receive a vow from a pilgiim, 
 binding him to give a certain boon to every Brahmin 
 who shall from time to time demand it of him. These 
 vows are doubtless sometimes made in the fulness of 
 remorse, and are sometimes very religiously observed ; 
 nay, always to the letter, though not always in the 
 spirit of the vow, the superstitions of the Hindoos pre- 
 venting their breaking such a solemn obligation, though 
 they are ever ready to adopt the most ingenious de- 
 vices for escaping the inconvenience of them. There 
 is, however, a notion impressed upon them by the 
 Brahmins, that if the gods do not openly punish such 
 evasions of their oaths, they fail not to circumvent the 
 fraudulent practice, or otherwise indemnify themselves 
 at the expense of the schemer. Numberless are the 
 instances they relate of this conduct on the part of the 
 s 2
 
 196 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 deities, who have been content to display their supe- 
 riority over mortal cunning by turning the devices of 
 their delinquent votaries to their own advantage. There 
 is one tale, the burden of a song familiar to all lovers 
 of Hindostanee music, which appears to me so pretty 
 and ingenious, that I think I shall be excused for in- 
 troducing it here. 
 
 THE BANIA's vow. 
 
 Near the little village of Mohur-ki-chowki, in the 
 Sivalic range of mountains, beneath a sacred banian 
 tree, whose curved and twining branches, descending 
 to the earth, had taken root and overspread a very large 
 space of ground, there dwelt an aged bania (a dealer 
 in grain), who had an only son, of gi^eat personal 
 beauty, the heir to his estate and to his entire wealth, 
 which was reputed to be very great, being the produce 
 of a life of diligence, good husbandry, and good fortune. 
 This opulent man delighted in charity, and was be- 
 loved by all his neighbours, and had no cause for care 
 or sorrow except in one respect. In the fulness of his 
 love for his child it was evident that he had been over- 
 indulgent, and he became sensible that the youth, whom 
 he had desired to see prudent in all things, and espe- 
 cially in respect of his property, was reckless and pro- 
 digal, fond of display, and a gambler. Now the 
 afflicted parent, with all his wealth about him, had 
 little regarded these failings in his darling child, until
 
 IIURDWAR. 197 
 
 he found his own strength declinmg, and the enfeebUng 
 finger of disease warned him that very speedily his 
 improvident son would be deprived of his guidance and 
 protection. Then came serious thoughts and dismal 
 apprehensions, as he found that his most grave injunc- 
 tions failed to move the lad to an appreciation of his 
 wise sayings, and that his oft-repeated prayers and 
 tearful warnings were equally miavailing. He could 
 not but anticipate that in a few short yeai'S after his 
 death his accumulated wealth would be completely 
 squandered, his treasures scattered to the winds, his 
 broad lands, acquired with a whole life's thrift, a prey 
 to remorseless creditors ; his child, a ruined debauchee, 
 an outcast, a squalid mendicant. 
 
 Finding all his advice utterly without effect upon 
 the hardened youth, the now dying father bethought 
 him how in a measure he might place a restraint upon 
 his prodigal propensities, and having after much 
 deliberation framed the following expedient, he sur- 
 rounded his couch with Brahmins, and then calling 
 his son, he thus addressed him. " Oh Purwatti, thou 
 ait the anguish of thy aged father's soul ; thou, whose 
 welfare is far more precious to me than the gain of my 
 whole life, art become the destroyer of my peace. 
 Yet, wilt thou listen to my last words, and remember 
 them ? Know then, my son, that fortune stands finn 
 when she has planted her feet, the one upon honesty, 
 the other on prudence; but he who shall withdraw 
 these her supports shall himself be crushed by her 
 s3
 
 198 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL, 
 
 fall. As fire will never be satisfied with wood, neither 
 the ocean with rivers, nor death with his victims, so 
 the wealth of Maia will not be sufficient for thy 
 spendthrift madness. All that is mine is thine, but 
 be thou certain that if I left thee in possession of all 
 the treasures of this world, that which thou shalt ex- 
 pend in benevolence shall alone profit thee. And now 
 lest by evil guidance thou shouldst be cast away, it is 
 thus I make thee my heir. All that is mine is thine ; 
 but of thy treasure give daily to the Brahmins one 
 tenth part of the sum which thou hast spent the 
 previous day ; rise daily to perfonn this duty ere the 
 sun be up, and in the day that thou shalt fail thereof, 
 know that the all-powerful Siva has declared by the 
 mouths of these wise men, at the moment of sunrise 
 on that evil day shall thy beauty wither upon thy 
 bones. And that my will may be duly observed, I 
 hereby invest these holy priests with parental au- 
 thority over thee. If in seeking to avoid their 
 authority thou shouldst resign the humble calling of 
 thy father, or build thee a dwelling greater than this 
 humble cottage, or quit the shadow of this sacred tree, 
 my dying curse go with thee. This is necessary for 
 thy peace, oh Purwatti ! for although by the slow fall 
 of water-drops the pot is at length filled, by the fall of 
 the vessel is the water spilled in a second." Having 
 delivered himself of these inspired words, the aged 
 bania was carried to the Ganges and expired. 
 
 Then, when the spirit had departed, the holy
 
 HURDWAR. 199 
 
 Brahmins turned to the young man, and with one 
 voice exclaimed, " Is it not written in the Dhurma 
 Shasti'a, ' Gain all thou canst, and that thou gainest 
 keep, that which thou keepest increase, and that thou 
 increasest bestow in holy sacrifice : so long shalt thou 
 prosper.' And again ; ' As the vain and ridiculous see 
 not their own folly in bedecking their feet with gems 
 while their heads are adorned with glass, so is that 
 man blindly contemptible who is content to sport with 
 his riches while he has no love for charity. On the 
 shoulder of such a man sits ruin.' " And with these 
 appropriate words the Brahmins retired. 
 
 Purwatti having succeeded to his father's wealth, 
 neglected not to rise daily before the sun as he had 
 been commanded, and with great exacmess he con- 
 tinued to dispense to the priests a tithe of what he had 
 spent the day before ; until after many months, having 
 become enamoured of a very lovely woman whom he 
 had observed tending cows, he abandoned himself to 
 the enchantment of her beauty, and neglecting the 
 young wife to whom he had been betrothed before his 
 father's death, he lavished immense sums of money 
 upon his new enslaver, so that daily he was compelled 
 to distribute more and more to the Brahmins. This, 
 however, very speedily dissipated all his cash, and 
 finding that his duty to the priest deprived him of 
 nmch which he wished to bestow upon his favorite, 
 he eluded the obligation, saying that what he gave 
 away as a present could not be said to have been
 
 200 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 spent ; and thus the Brahmins became suddenly de- 
 prived of their largesses. 
 
 Years passed away, and Purwatti continued to ob- 
 serve the letter of his father's injunctions, for he was 
 fearful of being in an unwary moment stripped of that 
 manly beauty and vigour in which he so greatly 
 gloried ; yet having so long practised an evasion with 
 impunity, he was at last led into a more fatal error. 
 He had become the father of a most lovely child, a 
 daughter, whose surpassing beauty had gained for her 
 the name of Vanadosini, signifying delight of the 
 sacred grove. So resplendent was her face, so per- 
 fectly charming was her form, so unrivalled in grace 
 her every movement, so soft, so kind her words, that 
 every man "whom fortune permitted to behold her 
 became, from that very moment, like a silken flag 
 borne along upon a staff against the wind ; for in 
 whatever course his destiny caiTied him, still were his 
 thoughts perpetually blown back in one never-varying 
 direction by the constant current of his love and ad- 
 miration. Beautiful as a celestial nymph, it was not 
 easy to believe her only mortal ; her delicate figure 
 was less than the least of women who are not dwarfs ; 
 her fairy form, agile as that of the antelope, seemed 
 borne up from the sordid earth by her elastic step ; 
 none could behold her without paying instant ho- 
 mage. 
 
 Punvatti doted upon his lovely child, and for her 
 sake gi'ew daily more and more caretiil of his wealth,
 
 KURD WAR. 20 i 
 
 SO that since the time when he had wooed her mother, 
 he had restrained himself from all absurd extrava- 
 gance. But it is seldom among the gifts of imperfect 
 mortals to avoid one extreme without falling into the 
 other ; if we quit the open road of folly, we are in 
 danger of selecting the bye path across the morass of 
 insidious evil. As Punvatti had been contemptibly 
 prodigal before, so did he now become meanly avari- 
 cious and uncharitable ; and this failing induced him 
 to study all sorts of deceitful inventions, by which he 
 might defraud the Brahmins of their tithes. 
 
 One day a pearl-merchant from Manaar, in the 
 island of Ceylon, having amved with ornaments of 
 great lustre and value, entered the bania's shop to 
 purchase some rice, and beholding the beautiful face of 
 Vanadosini, he became desirous of conversing with so 
 charming a person ; he immediately offered to exhibit 
 his costly wai'es, saying, with the ill grace of one from 
 an uncivilized country, that although the daughter of 
 a bania could not be expected to purchase gems of 
 such inestimable price, reserved for the wealthy, still 
 she might be peimitted to admire them ; and forthwith 
 he laid out before her the richest contents of his jewel 
 case. Now although Vanadosini, whom every one 
 flattered and extolled as far superior to all earthly 
 princesses, was vexed with the rude speech of the 
 merchant, she became absorbed in astonishment at his 
 magnificent treasures, and continued in praise and 
 admiration of each successive ornament which he dis-
 
 202 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 played, until she began to wonder what manner of 
 man could be possessed of such immense riches, and 
 yet have learnt so little gallantry among his courtly 
 customers. Upon that thought she turned her eyes 
 upon the countenance of the merchant, whom, hitherto, 
 her modesty had prevented her from regarding. At 
 that moment both were smitten with the shaft of love. 
 Never before had Vanadosini beheld so handsome and 
 so graceful a youth. 
 
 But the moment after love had entered the soul of 
 the beautiful girl, that uncourtly speech of the mer- 
 chant, which had for a moment only touched her 
 vanity, now wounded her pride, and with bitter mor- 
 tification she feigned anger at the earnest gaze of the 
 stranger. At the same moment she detennined to 
 abash him by assuming to herself the importance 
 which she enjoyed among all who were acquainted 
 with her father's wealth. 
 
 " Sir merchant," said she with a haughty air of 
 superiority before unknown to her, " Sir merchant, 
 which call you the most costly of these glittering 
 trinkets ?" 
 
 The merchant, immediately selecting a superb 
 chaplet of exquisite workmanship and most tasteful 
 design, representing an intertwisted wreath of jessa- 
 mine and orange flowers, wrought with the most 
 splendid pearls of Kondatchi, answered, " This, fair 
 lady, is the most precious. Its price would purchase 
 this whole village, and make slaves of all the inhabi-
 
 HURDWAR. 203 
 
 tants of the adjacent lands. A lakh of rupees- would 
 scarcely be its worth." 
 
 " Then," said Vanadosini, " put that aside forme, I 
 will call my father to pay you for it." A laugh burst 
 from the lips of the unpolished stranger, but the in- 
 dignant girl stopped not to listen to his words. She 
 hastened to the bamboo grove, where her father was 
 reclining in the shade, smoking his hooka, and throw- 
 ing herself into his aims, she employed all that win- 
 ning grace of soft entreaty which she had so often 
 known to be irresistible ; but finding more difficultv 
 than she had anticipated, she related to her fond parent 
 the manner in which she had been induced to pur- 
 chase the chaplet without his previous sanction. 
 Purwatti gently chid her for suffering the words of a 
 stranger to move her, and then, rising, bid her return 
 to the shop, while he called his banker to disburse the 
 amount to the merchant. Vanadosini, twining her 
 lambent anns round her father's neck, bestowed upon 
 him a kiss of fond affection and gi'atitude, which he 
 told her fully repaid him the price of the chaplet. As 
 she retraced her steps to the cottage with exulting 
 heart, she could not help lamenting that the merchant 
 had not learnt manners as well as her father. With 
 affected coolness and admiration — it was the first time 
 she. had ever affected what she did not feel — she told 
 the merchant to seat himself, her father would bring 
 him the price of the trinket immediately. vShe could 
 
 * Ten thousand pounds.
 
 204' THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 not help remarking the unfeigned surprise of the mer- 
 chant, which deUghted her child-Uke heart. The 
 pearl-merchant did not sit silent, hut so well did he 
 employ the time until Purvvatti arrived with the money, 
 that Vanadosini could not but confess within herself 
 that he could talk quite as prettily as her father, and 
 when any thing escaped him which betokened untaught 
 manners, she could not but attribute it to the natural 
 frankness and honest independence of his nature- 
 
 Although the pearl-merchant was greatly surprised 
 at the readiness with which the bargain had been made 
 and the immediate promise of payment, he could 
 scarcely believe that a grain merchant living in so 
 humble a cottage could possess wealth sufficient for 
 the purchase of the chaplet, and he therefore expected 
 that the hania would make some excuse for declin- 
 ing the bargain, when he should see its exceeding 
 costliness and learn its price. What then was his sur- 
 ])rise, when, in a short time, the hania and the banker 
 arrived at the door, driving yoked oxen, with the full 
 amount of his demand. His attendance was desired 
 to see the money counted, and he could not but wonder 
 that no attempt was made to abate the amount of his 
 demand, or even the chaplet examined to ascertain 
 its real value. Now it ha])pened that the pearl- 
 merchant, unhke most of his trade, was a tinily honest 
 and conscientious man, having these rare good qualities 
 in addition to many other excellent endowments. 
 In mentioning the price of a lakh of rupees for the
 
 HURDWAR. 205 
 
 chaplet he had spoken at random, without considering 
 the exact demand he ought to make ; for he Uttle 
 thought that Vanadosini was able to buy so valuable 
 an ornament: and having cast these things in his 
 mind, while the lahk of rupees was being counted, 
 he turned to the hania and requested that he would 
 satisfy himself as to the real worth of the trinket : but 
 the hania replied that he purchased not the bauble 
 for its worth sake but because his child had desired 
 it, and at the same time he expressed confidence in 
 the fair dealing of the merchant. Then when the 
 money had been told, the merchant desired that 
 seventy thousand rupees only might be made over 
 to him, as that was the precise value of the chaplet, 
 explaining how he had inconsiderately named a larger 
 sum. This candid and generous behaviour of one 
 from whom they so little expected it, whose fellow- 
 dealers are notoriously dishonest, won the admiration 
 and friendship of Purwatti and Bikhari, the banker, 
 who was a man of considerable wealth and influence ; 
 and they, expressing these sentiments with much 
 warmth, begged that he would tarry with them a few 
 days, since they were desirous of improving their ac- 
 quaintance with so excellent a man. They found 
 little persuasion necessary for their purpose as far as 
 it was in his power to comply, but at the same time, 
 he declared his inability to remain beyond the dawn 
 of the next day, since he had a long journey to perfonn 
 in a very short time; he gladly accepted their hos- 
 
 T
 
 206 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 pitality for that day, for his heart beat tumuUuously 
 when he thought of departing from the mango grove. 
 During the short time the pearl-merchant remained 
 with them he gained more and more upon their 
 esteem, until when night grew on apace and free 
 communion had opened their hearts, while the fragrant 
 hooka had cheered their spirits, the pearl-merchant, 
 turning abruptly upon his host, exclaimed, " 0, Pur- 
 watti bania, excuse the liberty of my speech, but I 
 jjray you inform me is that most beautiful daughter 
 of yours betrothed ?" " No," replied the bania shortly, 
 '' wherefore should a stranger seek to know aught of 
 his host's family affairs ?" 
 
 " Wherefore ! It is because the super-human grace 
 and beauty of the fawn -eyed Vanadosini have trans- 
 fixed me as with a shaft, and have rent my heart 
 with the fretful wound of desperate love. O Bania, 
 be not incensed at my rash disclosure, but why 
 should my passion consume me, and I remain aloof 
 from the only chance of aid ? I offend thee ; but 
 bear with my unseemly precipitance, and hear what 
 I have to say. If I be wanting in honour or re- 
 spect, abhor me ; if I be found worthy, forbear thy 
 displeasure. Twelve virtues are needful for the man 
 who shall be accounted a fit husband for your lovely 
 daughter : he must be pure, faithful, honest, comely, 
 prosperous, mild, dihgent, patient, generous, good- 
 tempered, full of confidence, and devoted ; and I 
 pray thee deem it not an immodest assurance of
 
 HURDWAR. 207 
 
 my own worth, that I say, if I can prove myself 
 possessed of each of these good qualities, receive me 
 for thy son. I have considerable riches, and am of thy 
 own caste. Wherefore should I not speak openly ? " 
 
 The bania arose, and warmly embraced the pearl- 
 merchant. *' If," said he, " you can make all these 
 virtues your own within twelve months, Vanadosini 
 shall be youi^s also, and an ample dower shall go 
 with her." With much cordiality, the new friends 
 separated ; and the next morning, long before day- 
 break, the pearl-merchant had departed on his way. 
 
 Throughout the night, Purwatti's repose was greatly 
 disturbed with anxious speculations concerning his 
 beloved child's future life, and though he entertained 
 the highest admiration of the pearl-merchant, he 
 could not but regard \vith caution so great a stranger. 
 If, thought he, this man can render himself worthy of 
 her love, he shall marry her; and upon this thought he 
 began to calculate what sum of money he should be able 
 to lavish upon her; then covetousness taking possession 
 of him, led him to regret all that he must bestow 
 here or there, without being able to add it to the 
 heap of treasure with which he should present her. 
 Then he remembered the seven thousand rupees which 
 he was bounden to pay to the Brahmins before sun- 
 rise on the morrow, as the tenth part of the amount 
 he had expended upon the chaplet ; but the demon 
 of avarice took power over his heart, and he, having 
 long endeavoured, without success, to frame some 
 T 2
 
 208 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 available mode of escaping the payment, at last — 
 fortune having averted her face — determined boldly 
 to disregard the fulfilment of his father's injunction, 
 beHeving that he had so long practised deception, 
 that open neglect would now remain unnoticed. 
 Having comforted his mind with this reflection, he 
 fell asleep, and did not awake until nearly sun-rise, 
 when, turning upon his pillow, he again endeavoured 
 to woo oblivion ; but the misgivings of a not-quite- 
 hardened conscience suffered him not to rest, and 
 made him hesitate whether he would not still rise 
 and discharge his dues to the Brahmins. While 
 his mind still hovered between duty and inclination, 
 a brilliant burst of sun-light shot into the room; 
 and Vanadosini entering, no sooner beheld her father's 
 countenance, than, with an agonized scream, she 
 sunk senseless upon the floor of the room. 
 
 Then the amazed father was suddenly overcome with 
 terror, for his conscience forewarned him of evil, though 
 he knew not what had befallen him. He hastily 
 rose, and with tender solicitude hurried to his daugh- 
 ter's assistance ; but when he stretched out his arms 
 to raise her, he was sti'icken aghast with hon-or on be- 
 holding the shrunken defonnity of his own limbs as 
 they remained extended. TrembHng and faint, un- 
 manned by his sudden conviction of the dire calamity 
 which had overtaken him, now shocked and dismayed 
 at his unholy defiance of his dying father's most solemn 
 charge, he cast himself beside his child, and remained
 
 HURD-WAR. 209 
 
 for a long time in a paroxysm of mental agony. I 
 love not to depict the tortures of the deeply afflicted : 
 let this suffice ; he endured the penalty of his disobe- 
 dience to the extreme of his father's imprecation. 
 
 For many days a malignant fever prostrated the 
 energies of the unfortunate Purwatti, but with the first 
 return of sufficient reason and strength, firmly casting 
 off his repugnance to be seen by his neighbours in his 
 lamentable disfigurement, he took a staff in his hand, 
 and bent his feeble steps towards certain temples of 
 Mahadeo, situated upon the heights above his cot- 
 tage, which, owing to their great antiquity and the 
 character of the attendant Brahmins, were held in 
 high veneration by the devout, and had been from 
 time immemorial a favourite resort of the inhabi- 
 tants of the surrounding country, whenever they re- 
 quired the prayers or advice of the priests ; for these 
 men were reputed to be skilful both as bodily and 
 spiritual physicians. 
 
 The temples are in themselves beautiful objects, 
 both on account of their picturesque form and posi- 
 tion, and also as fine specimens of the force and 
 merit of ancient Hindoo sculpture ; many of the 
 figures with which they are adorned, although origi- 
 nally but roughly hewn, and now crumbling with 
 decay, being admirably spirited and full of energy, 
 albeit the postures and proportions are somewhat 
 extravagant. The ornaments upon the exterior are 
 very elaborate, but consist chiefly of flowers and 
 T 3
 
 210 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 running border patterns, deeply carved; the mate- 
 rial is red sandstone, and the form of the buildings 
 is peculiar to all temples dedicated to Mahadeo in 
 this part of the country, a high quadrangular figure, 
 surmounted with a conical roof. From a highly 
 elevated spot in the Sivalic hills, they command a 
 great extent of beautifully undulated country, finely 
 wooded with gigantic trees, watered with many 
 streams, and in some parts richly cultivated. The 
 style of scenery is channing and grand beyond de- 
 scription ; I only regret that my pencil was unequal 
 to the task of conveying a full idea of its many and 
 varied beauties. Such as it is, however, I trust the 
 accompanying sketch will enhance the reader's inte- 
 rest in my tale. 
 
 It was with great labour and fatigue, and only by 
 slow advances that Purwatti was able to reach the 
 site of these sacred temples. Wholly subdued by 
 remorse and affliction, a thousand vows were made 
 upon his painful journey, and as he drew more and 
 more near to his destination, he found that the ner- 
 vous anxiety under which he laboured so greatly 
 impeded his progress, by the prostration of his re- 
 maining strength, that he almost despaired of ac- 
 complishing his object. Renewed hope occasionally 
 lent him such a measure of energy as at last 
 brought him to the temples. He came in quest 
 of the Brahmins, and found them assembled upon
 
 HUKDWAR. 211 
 
 a terrace of holy ground shaded by an overhanging 
 byr tree ; but they knew hhn not until he had de- 
 clai-ed himself. Having received the benefit of their 
 prayers and religious consolation, he sent for Bikhari 
 the banker, and bestowed upon the priests a lahk of 
 rupees, the full price of the chaplet; and with the 
 chaplet itself he begged them to adorn the image of 
 the god, as the fi'ee offering of his daughter. 
 
 In answer to his enquiries, however, he was assured 
 that no sacrifice or penance, but death alone, could 
 remove the burden of his punishment. "Yet," said 
 he, " here under the shadow of these holy temples do I 
 solemnly bind myself henceforth to devote daily unto 
 the gods one half of the amount which I may have 
 spent the previous day ; and further, I vow to give to 
 every Brahmin, or religious pilgiim, who shall demand 
 it, a handful of the finest meal, as often as they may 
 require it for their o^v'n use or for the gods." 
 
 The Brahmins having heard with delight this vow 
 of the penitent Purwatti, by which they anticipated 
 that great riches would come to their temples, not 
 only as the gift of Purwatti, but also by increasing 
 their renown as persons of wonderful sanctity, be- 
 came anxious lest when he should have an opportunity 
 for cool consideration, when time should have as- 
 suaged the bitterness of his misery, he should again 
 backslide, and leave his solemn promises unper- 
 foiTned. One of them, therefore, hoping to persuade
 
 212 THK ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 him to grant them such control over his property as 
 would enable them to exact a strict observance of the 
 vow, thus addressed him : — 
 
 " O ! Purwatti, let no mortal trust in his own 
 foresight. How has thine own most sad experience 
 taught thee ? Hast thou at all times had it in thy 
 power, even when thy will and thy duty were at 
 peace, to 'fulfil with sufficient faithfulness thy own 
 vows or the sacred injunctions of thy dying father ? 
 Frequently, when the good intentions of men are 
 most forward, ability is at the ebb ; and again, when 
 the power is at hand inclination is sometimes want- 
 ing. Take warning by the past, and let not thy 
 safety depend solely upon thine own strength; but 
 invest us, thy trusty friends, with authority to provide 
 for the exact performance of these sacred obligations. 
 Have you not had awful proof that the wisdom of 
 one man is abject folly ? Wisdom and discretion are 
 only to be found in the council of many. Is it not 
 truly said, that the knowledge of a wise man may be 
 turned into folly by the concurrent testimony of two 
 or three fools ? Listen, Purwatti, to the story of 
 
 THE BRAHMIN AND HIS GOAT, 
 
 and you will immediately acknowledge the truth of 
 what I have said. It will be seen that even a Brah- 
 min was led to distrust his own senses by the impu- 
 dent lying of three knaves. Who then can venture to
 
 HURDWAR. 213 
 
 repose confidence in the infallibility of his single 
 wisdom ? 
 
 " In former days, as at this time, these holy temples 
 were served by many Brahmins of such extraordinary 
 piety and wisdom, of such pure and heavenly lives, 
 that all the world was crying out, saying, * Whence 
 came all these devout and sapient persons ?' The 
 whole country, far and near, resounded with the 
 echoes of their praise, and they were sought by all 
 who had need either of bodily or spuitual advice. 
 But Genesa, the great god of wisdom, is often pleased 
 to expose the shallowness of mortal judgment and 
 foresight, when his just wrath is excited by man's 
 impious assumption of his attributes. 
 
 *' Among the number of these excellent Brahmins 
 was one whose name was Saryaput, a man of such 
 superior learning and skill, acquired by great labour 
 and devotion to his sacred studies during a long life, 
 that he was always consulted in cases of emergency ; 
 and being raised to the holy dignity of chief-priest, 
 he became an oracle, speaking the will of the divine 
 Mahadeo. In fact, this extraordinary man was as 
 much an object of veneration among the priests as to 
 the vulgar : and yet he fell from the tower of his 
 greatness. Self-sufficiency and conceit found a lurk- 
 ing-place in the heart of this gifted and once pious 
 Brahmin, and speedily manifested themselves in his 
 contemptuous and overbearing behaviour to the rest 
 of the priesthood. Vanity and self-love unhappily
 
 214 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 taught him to pour ridicule upon the ancient laws and 
 observances of his high office; he brought disgrace 
 upon the Vedas, as well as upon the servants of the 
 gods, by laughing to scorn the fonns of devotion 
 which they inculcated, and by introducing into our 
 holy worship the most blasphemous doctrines, and 
 certain impious rites which were the invention of his 
 own intoxicated brain. For a time he endeavoured to 
 force the practice of these unhallowed things upon 
 the priests of the temple, but finding that they were 
 ready to oppose his designs, he cried aloud to the 
 people to follow him, for that he possessed power 
 with the gods to obtain for them every thing which 
 they might desire ; at the same time denouncing the 
 venerable ordinances of their ancient faith as a tissue 
 of ignorance and imposition. 
 
 '' Then, having drawn after him an immense con- 
 course of blinded and admiring devotees, he quitted 
 the steps of these sacred buildings, and made himself 
 a temple within the trunk of yonder hollow tree, 
 where he established new ceremonies and preached a 
 new doctrine in direct hostility to his former profes- 
 sions ; thus devoting to perdition the thousands of 
 foolish persons who were won over to his cause by 
 the splendour of his promises. 
 
 " Among many other absurdities practised with a 
 view to his own profit, he pretended that the sacrifice of 
 a young goat w as necessary, every time he had occasion 
 to call upon the gods ; and that he might offer such
 
 HURDWAR. 215 
 
 only as should be acceptable, he made it necessary 
 that he should select and purchase the goat himself, 
 for which purpose he was supplied with money by all 
 who sought his assistance ; and thus doubtless he filled 
 his coffers and his stomach at the expense of his fol- 
 lowers. But the gods did not long suffer themselves 
 to be mocked. This wicked Brahmin stood alone, and 
 his fall came speedily. 
 
 ••' One day, having been into the market to purchase 
 a goat, Suryaput was returning with the animal slung 
 over his shoulder, when he was espied, from behind a 
 thicket, by three dukhaits (robbers), who having tra- 
 velled far, and being very hungry, coveted the goat. 
 ' Yet,' said one of them, ' behold this man is a Brah- 
 min ; we may not lay hands on him. If he were a 
 common person, we would slay him, and feast upon 
 the goat ; but now we must restrain our hands. How 
 fat is that young goat, and how delicious a curry would 
 his flesh furnish to appease our hunger I Yet must we 
 suffer it to go by untouched.' 
 
 " * Truly,' said the second dukhait, ' this is a Brah- 
 min, and therefore we cannot by any means possess 
 ourselves of the goat. — Let the holy man depart unmo- 
 lested.' 
 
 " ' Not so,' said the third, who was an old man, * al- 
 though I should be as unwilling as either of you to 
 do any violence to this Brahmin, still I can see no 
 possible objection to our obtaining the goat by the 
 exercise of stratagem. Have we not a familiar saying,
 
 216 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 That two or three fools may defeat a wise man ? — Let 
 lis try our wits upon this sage. I have a scheme to 
 propose which, if it should fail, let your ingenuity 
 attempt something better.' Then, having consulted 
 together, they separated, and went by a circuitous path, 
 and placed themselves at distant intervals in the road 
 over which the Brahmin was travelling, so that each 
 might meet him separately, as if by accident. 
 
 " Suryaput, who knew nothing of these dukhaits, or 
 their affection for his goat, was walking leisurely along 
 the road, possibly exulting inwardly at the success of 
 his secession from his brother Brahmins, and the con- 
 sequent fame and wealth which accrued to him ; when, 
 at an abrupt turn of the road, he was suddenly met by 
 a stranger, the smiling and pleasant expression of 
 whose countenance, as they came face to face, was 
 quickly changed to that of amazement ; then doubt was 
 evident in his gaze ; but a narrow scrutiny of the goat 
 upon Suryaput's shoulder renewed his astonishment, 
 which was immediately followed by a look of horror ; 
 for all which the bewildered Brahmin could not possibly 
 account, until the stranger moving back a pace or two, 
 and casting aloft his eyes and extended hands to 
 heaven, cried aloud in accents of pity and lamentation, 
 ' Oh, woe, woe ! Behold a Brahmin has gone mad, and 
 deliberately pollutes himself by the touch of a filthy 
 dog!' 
 
 "*A dog ! ' replied Suryaput, with great indignation ; 
 ' call you this fat goat a dog ? ' Then pointing to the
 
 HURDWAR. 217 
 
 hoofs of the hind legs, which he had in his grasp, he 
 burst into a scornful laugh, exclaiming, ' Fool ! are 
 these the feet of a dog ? ' But the stranger replied 
 not, except by a look of the most heart-felt commise- 
 ration, and each proceeded on his way. 
 
 " Suryaput walked on about half a kos farther, think- 
 ing over the singular mistake of the stranger, and having 
 his eyes cast upon the ground. He had just ex- 
 pressed aloud his conviction of the traveller's unhappy 
 state of mind, muttering as he went, — ' A dog indeed I 
 Mad ! mad ! ' when he was met by a second traveller, 
 who on approaching him, and fixing his eyes upon the 
 goat, shrunk back as if in horror at the sight; and then 
 holding out his hand as if to arrest his progress, he 
 cried, 'Alas! alas! how shocking! Behold, a sacred 
 Brahmin defiles himself by carrying upon his back the 
 foulest of unclean beasts ! Oh horrible ! homble ! that 
 a Brahmin should carry a dog I ' 
 
 " Suryaput stopped short, utterly confounded at this 
 second inexplicable occuiTence. Then putting down 
 the goat, he looked at it again and again, and seeing 
 that it had indeed the form of a goat, he stretched out 
 his hand, unwilling to trust the evidence of a single 
 sense, and felt the beast's horns. * li is a goat,' cried 
 he. ' Maa-a-a-a,' cried the goat. * Idiot ! ' ex- 
 claimed the enraged Brahmin. * Have I neither eyes, 
 nor hands, nor ears ? " 
 
 " * Alas ! alas ! ' said the stranger, ' how melancholy ! 
 the dog barked, and the poor madman mistook its voice 
 u
 
 218 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 for that of a goat. Poor fellow ! ' and turning aside, 
 he passed the Brahmin as if he feared to be polluted by 
 his touch. 
 
 " ' Ah, ah I ' said Suryaput, as he again took the goat 
 upon his shoulder, " 'tis laughable that two madmen 
 should have mistaken my goat for a dog ; but the 
 longer we live, the stranger things we see and hear. 
 These men perchance were brothers, bom with the 
 
 same deficiency of reason, and but here is an aged 
 
 fellow coming ; he cannot be a brother ; he has the 
 air and appearance of a goat-herd ; perhaps he will 
 ofTer to purchase my goat.' 
 
 " As the old man approached the Brahmin, he pre- 
 pared to accost him, making a humble salaam, and 
 putting off his shoes to receive the priest's blessing ; 
 but suddenly, as his eye fell upon the goat, he started 
 back, overcome with disgust and abhoiTence ; then 
 averting his head, and clasping his hands as if in an 
 agony of grief, he cried out, 'Ah, woe is me ! what evil 
 have I done, that my eyes should behold this infamous 
 sight ! Is this Brahmin mad, or does he wilfully dese- 
 crate his sacred birth and holy office by canying a dog 
 as if for sacrifice. O horrible, horrible ! ' 
 
 " Suryaput, hearing this fearful accusation for the third 
 time, believed that a judgment had come upon him for 
 his iniquitous desertion of his former faith, and the 
 sacred rites of that religion which he knew to be pure 
 and infallible. Believing that Genesa had cast a de- 
 ceitful veil over his senses, and had thus permitted him
 
 HURD'W'AR. 219 
 
 to become polluted, the conscience-smitten Sun-apiit 
 threw down the goat in a paroxysm of despair and pe- 
 nitential remorse, and with loud cries of distress he 
 fled to these temples, and cast himself prostrate before 
 the altars which his overweening vanity and covetous- 
 ness had induced him to forsake. 
 
 " Thus the three dukhaits, by the repetition of a lie, 
 made the wise Brahmin believe that his goat was in 
 truth a dog, and in this manner they obtained posses- 
 sion of it. So that you see even the wisest of us are 
 not at all times infallible." 
 
 Purwatti having listened to this account of the 
 Brahmin Suryaput, became fully convinced that it 
 would be for his ovra good, and the security of liis 
 welfare, to place in the hands of the Brahmins such 
 an instrument as would enable them to enforce an im- 
 plicit observance of his vows, lest in a weak moment 
 he should become a defaulter to the gods ; and having 
 thus done, he returned to his own house, and sought 
 consolation in the soft affection of his darling child, 
 who soon became, if possible, more and more dear to 
 him; albeit, an unreasonable person might have up 
 braided her as the indirect cause of his misfortune. 
 
 Tidings of the hanias vow having spread far and 
 wide through the country, from temple to temple, 
 from Brahmin to Brahmin, from pilgrim to pilgrim, 
 all religious devotees who sought shelter beneath the 
 sacred banian tree, — and at certain seasons there were 
 u 2
 
 220 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 daily many thousands, — failed not to apply at the bania's 
 shop for his handful of fine meal, so that he was com- 
 pelled to appoint a slave whose sole occupation was 
 the distribution of this charity : thus not only did the 
 expenditure become enormous, but his trade was 
 ruinously impeded, and his repose completely de- 
 stroyed through the continual pressure of the noisy 
 multitude around his cottage. Under these unhappy 
 circumstances, the wretched Purwatti found his trea- 
 sure daily decreasing without the possibility of his 
 escaping the ultimate ruin which stared him in the 
 face. 
 
 In the midst of his sorrows, he was again visited 
 by the pearl-merchant, who condoled with him on his 
 sad misfortunes, and endeavoured to inspire him with 
 hope ; he persuaded him to accompany him one day's 
 journey to Hurdwar, there to consult the holiest 
 Brahmins of that sacred place, and to try the virtue 
 of ablution at the renowned ghat of Hari. To 
 this proposal Purwatti gladly assented; but having 
 presented himself before those devout persons, he 
 related to them the history of his misfortunes, 
 and having distributed large sums of money, having 
 bathed continually, received their loudest blessings, 
 and been the incessant object of their prayers, he was 
 at last informed, that the Brahmins of his native village 
 had not erred in their assurance that the persecutions 
 of his destiny would only cease with death. The 
 pearl-merchant, however, would not permit the despair
 
 jfflBk
 
 Am^ 
 
 M
 
 HURDWAR. 22 1 
 
 of Purwatti to ovei-power his hopes, and urged upon 
 him with great zeal and affection, that he should ac- 
 company him on his voyage down the Ganges to 
 Siva's * chosen city, Benares ; and from thence, if lie 
 should have gained no relief from his woes, he stre- 
 nuously pleaded that he should accompany him to the 
 mostholy island of Ceylon. To this Purwatti would have 
 objected the impossibility of quitting his home without 
 incurring the farther curse of his father ; but the pearl - 
 merchant removed his doubts, recommending him to 
 leave his daughter under the protection of the Brah- 
 mins as a pledge of his intention to return ; and 
 although sore at heart to tear himself from his darling 
 child, he at last yielded a reluctant consent to accom- 
 pany the pearl-merchant; for a spark of hope yet 
 lingered in his breast, since he regarded his calamities 
 as almost beyond mortal endurance, and altogether too 
 severe to be strictly enforced upon him by the gods 
 without some measure of remission. 
 
 When Purwatti and t?ie pearl-merchant returned 
 to Vanadosini, they communicated to her the news of 
 her father's resolution, which almost broke the tender 
 heart of that fond and gentle child; for she had a double 
 source of anxiety in the departure of the travellers, the 
 pearl-merchant having become daily more dear to her 
 soul. On the eve of their journey, Purwatti, having 
 
 * Siva and Mahadeo are names indiscriminately applied to the same 
 deity. The former, perhaps, is more genereilly used in Bengal, and 
 the latter in the western provinces. 
 
 u 3
 
 222 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 summoned the Brahmins from the temples of Mahacleo, 
 informed them of his projected pilgiiraage, and after 
 he had solemnly committed his precious child to their 
 protection, he told them, that in her hands he placed 
 the power of drawing all such sums of money as his 
 friend Bikhari, the banker, should conceive to be really 
 necessary to the strict performance of his vow. 
 
 When he had completed his arrangements, the bania 
 retired to his sleepless couch, and there during the slow 
 and silent hours of the night he continued in painful me- 
 ditation, until this unhappy thought entered his mind. 
 If, said he within himself, my return should be longer 
 delayed than I anticipate; if sudden death should 
 overtake me in the dangerous straits of my pilgrimage, 
 and the entire remnants of my once ample wealth be- 
 come exhausted in my absence, what will become of 
 my s-weet child ? And with this bitter consideration 
 he continued a long time in ungovernable anguish. 
 At last, starting from his couch, " Ah, ah ! " cried he 
 aloud, with a wild tortured laugh, " Ah, ah ! thus will 
 I at least protract this fearful evil. The hand of that 
 overgrown slave whom in my blind folly I have ap- 
 pointed to dispense the fine meal is as the hand of a 
 giant, and the villain, dehghting in the hideous prospect 
 of my downfal, employs tenfold his natural activity in 
 dealing forth the bounty ; but who among mortals has 
 a hand so delicately small as that of my most precious 
 Vanadosini ? Ah, ah ! in the narrow doorway of my 
 shop will I erect a seat for her ere I depart, and there
 
 HURDTTAR. 223 
 
 shall she daily take her place, and with the tiny mea- 
 sure of her soft hand deal forth a religious quittance ot 
 my vow. A single maund of fine meal will thus sup- 
 ply tenfold as many as now demand my charity in the 
 course of the whole day. Ten thousand blessings wait 
 upon the propitious genius who granted me ihat saving 
 thought." And immediately on this ingenious conceit 
 the exulting Purwatti arose, and constructed a seat for 
 his daughter in the narrow doorway, where she might 
 without inconvenience distribute her handful of meal 
 to each applicant. " There will I leave her, while my 
 wealth is again accumulating in the hands of Bikhari, 
 and on my return with the pearl-merchant, there shall 
 I find her still seated, performing her father's vow t<j 
 the gods." 
 
 When the day dawned, having given his daughter 
 instructions regarding her duties, the father disengaged 
 himself from her tearful embrace, and the pearl-mer- 
 chant took an affectionate but respectful leave; and 
 thus the travellers departed on their laborious journey, 
 which at the nearest calculation must be no less a dis- 
 tance than four thousand miles to travel over ere they 
 could retuni, and this they hoped to accomplish in a 
 year. 
 
 Immediately on her father's departure, the beautiful 
 Vanadosini, although bathed in tears and overwhelmed 
 with anxious apprehensions for those whom she loved 
 so tenderly, found it necessary to enter upon htr 
 new duties; and as each successive Brahmin arrived
 
 224 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 with a request for his handful of meal, nothing could 
 exceed his surprise on beholding that most lovely of 
 women, with her own sweet little hand distributing 
 Purwatti's bounty. They saw through his fraudulent 
 intention, but considering themselves more than abun- 
 dantly recompensed for their short measure by the 
 honour of receiving it from so fair and delicate a hand, 
 and for the sake of a look at so exquisite a beauty, 
 they felt disposed neither to blame nor to regret Pur- 
 watti's cunning expedient, but the rather extolled his 
 prudence. But above all, every mouth w^as filled with 
 rapturous praises of the incomparable Vanadosini ; 
 the fame of her charms spread with astonishing cele- 
 rity through all parts of the country, and multi- 
 tudes flocked daily to obtain a sight of her; many 
 exalted her with celestial attributes, and as her vota- 
 ries daily increased, divine homage was paid to her 
 by thousands. Artless and unaflfected as was the 
 sweet 2;irl who excited all this fennent of admiration 
 and devotion, she could not remain unijiformed of its 
 meaning, and not daring to disobey her parent's com- 
 mands, she naturally had recourse to a veil, which so 
 completely enveloped her person as to leave not the 
 least view of her, except only the little hand with 
 which the fine meal was measured. This expedient, 
 however, far from removing the annoyance of her 
 importunate slaves, rather excited their curiosity and 
 inflamed their imaginations, so that her trials were 
 daily increased ; and in the midst of the wild tumult
 
 HURD^AR. 226 
 
 which from morning until night polluted the sacred 
 shadow of the banian tree, she was compelled to 
 make patience her only comfort. The Brahmins, 
 under whose charge she had been placed by Purwatti, 
 were compelled to take active measures for her pro- 
 tection, which could only be effected by surrounding 
 the bania's cottage with a powerful body of anned 
 men. These required, of course, a large sum of 
 money for their support; the Brahmins, too, required 
 a handsome remuneration for their constant attend- 
 ance and arduous duties, and these things, together 
 with the absolute loss of all trade, and the countless 
 and never-ending pilgi'ims and devotees who crowded 
 upon Vanadosini for the meal, made daily most 
 ruinous depredation upon the remaining property of 
 the absent Purwatti, and it was obvious that ere long 
 not a rupee would be left. This was matter of sincere 
 grief and distress to Bikhari, the banker, who, at the 
 same time could devise no scheme for the avoidance 
 of the impending niin ; besides, he, a devout and 
 conscientious person, could not interfere with the ful - 
 filment of his friend's vow, and religiously trusted to 
 the favour of the gods for the support and protection 
 of Vanadosini. 
 
 More than twelve months had now elapsed since 
 the travellers had taken their departure, and yet they 
 came not. Fear and dire anxiety took possession of 
 poor Vanadosini, when she thought what might be 
 the fate of those so dear to her ; added to this, con •
 
 226 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 Slant care, trial, and fatigue, together with a know- 
 ledge of the utter niin of her father, produced a sad 
 effect upon her health and bewildered her mind ; the 
 colour fled her beautiful cheek, the life of her smile 
 departed, her soft eyes were bedimmed with tears, 
 and her finely -rounded foiTn was gi'adually robbed of 
 its loveliest perfections. At length, for the first time, 
 she appeared not, at the long looked-for hour of sun- 
 rise, to repay the anxious watching of the throng ; an 
 alanning fever and delirium had laid her delicate 
 form prostrate on the bed of sickness; but in her 
 place came Bikhari, and with trembling voice, and 
 downcast heart and looks, declared to them, that not a 
 fraction of Purwatti's wealth remained in his treasury. 
 A general response of lamentation and compassion 
 was uttered by the crowd, and with prayers for the 
 recovery of Vanadosini, and for the safe return of her 
 now almost sainted father, they gi'adually dispersed. 
 
 Scarcely had they all Avithdrawn from the cover of 
 the banian tree, when the amval of Pui*A^'atti and the 
 pearl-merchant was announced to the honest Bikhari, 
 who hastened to greet them, delighted to be relieved 
 from the weight of his fears on their account. With 
 cautious delicacy he communicated to them the evils 
 which Purwatti, by his own pernicious device, had 
 called down from heaven upon his house; and the 
 unfortunate man, execrating himself for his delin- 
 quency, could not but confess the justice of his punish- 
 ment, and having invoked forgiveness of the gods, he
 
 HURDWAR. 227 
 
 exclaimed, " Through vice and folly, through cupidity 
 and unreasonable affection for our own flesh and blood, 
 come sorrow and bereavement. Thus is wisdom taught 
 to the blind. Be warned, my son ; youth, wealth, 
 fraud, and an inconsiderate action, will each of them 
 occasion danger. What measure of disaster then will 
 not be accomplished by all four of them in con- 
 junction ? Among all possessions, experience and 
 example appear pre-eminently valuable ; by the \vise 
 they are called supreme riches ; because they can 
 never be lost, stolen, or destroyed ; and as, by the 
 company of gold, even glass acquires the brilliancy of a 
 gem, so, by the society of the wise and good, are the 
 less perfect made to shine. And again, whosoever is 
 watchful to restrain his evil propensities, who speaks 
 considerately, who acts advisedly, a dutiful child, a 
 conscientious parent, these for a thousand years give 
 birth to no misfortune ; but mark the respective situa- 
 tions of him who eats inordinately and of the food 
 which he devours ; do you not discern the short friend- 
 ship and the total destruction of both." Having thought- 
 fully pronounced these words of wisdom, Purwatti 
 hastened to embrace his drooping child. 
 
 The return of her father went far to restore both 
 the bodily and mental disease of Vanadosini, and in 
 a few days she was seen reclining by his side beneath 
 the deep shade of the circling banian, in company 
 with the pearl -merchant and Bikhari. The subject 
 of conversation was evidently one of absorbing interest
 
 228 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 to each of the group ; and the manthng blush and 
 modest smile of Vanadosmi would alone have suggested 
 what the raised voice of the pearl-merchant at length 
 declared. " All, all is hers and yours, Purwatti ; that 
 by the favour of the gods I am prosperous, you are 
 right well aware ; and now, after so long and severe a 
 trial of my heart and disposition, judge for yourself 
 whether I am possessor of the other eleven virtues 
 which I named to you. O speak, and tell me that 
 from henceforth the «hade of this sacred tree shall be 
 my home." 
 
 " Henceforth thou know'st not in what youthful play 
 Our days, beguiled with pleasure, swam away ; 
 Gay songs and cheerful tales deceived the time. 
 And circling goblets made a tuneful chime ; 
 Sweet was the draft, and sweet the blooming maid. 
 Who touched her lyre beneath the fragrant shade." * 
 
 * Translated from the Arabic by Sir William Jones.
 
 229 
 
 KUNKHUL. 
 
 About two miles below Hurdwar, upon the same side 
 of the Ganges, is the town of Kunkhul, deriving no 
 little sanctity from its proximity to that most sacred 
 of places. The more wealthy and the higher castes 
 of the Hindoos who visit Hurdwar usually encamp 
 at Kunkhul, to avoid the tumult and other innumerable 
 annoyances inseparable from the concourse of Hindoos. 
 Here too they can enjoy open space, and, with a 
 little interest, gain admission to some beautiful gardens 
 belonging to the temples. The town consists princi- 
 pally of one broad handsome street, fonned by a 
 succession of showy fronts and highly decorated 
 gateways, which, like those at Hurdwar, appear to be 
 built more for the purpose of shutting out the mean 
 and dirty hovels of the owners, than for the purposes 
 of habitation. On either side of the street is a high 
 terrace, for the erection of stalls at the festival ; these, 
 together with balconies and arcaded galleries, project- 
 ing from all parts of the buildings, afford excellent 
 
 X
 
 230 TEE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 accommodation to the spectators of the religious pro- 
 cessions which parade the sunken road. 
 
 The temples are numerous, hut I am not aware that 
 there are any of particular celebrity. That represented 
 in the little vignette of this volume stands upon 
 the Ganges bank in front of the madrissa, or 
 ancient college ; I was induced to sketch it, not 
 only for the sake of its picturesque position, but 
 also on account of the peculiar style of ifs pointed 
 roof, which I believe to be perfectly unique. I 
 have never seen its like, or any thing resembling its 
 form, in India, and am somewhat at a loss to under- 
 stand how the roof is supported, there being no jambs 
 or buttresses to resist the lateral pressure, which, it is 
 evident, from its concave form, must be veiy great. 
 It is constructed entirely of very small bricks, plas- 
 tered over with white stucco, and ornamented with 
 mouldings and cornices of red sandstone. It has appa- 
 rently been a structure of much importance, but has 
 fallen into neglect and consequent decay : though an 
 image of Krishna is still within, I believe, it is seldom 
 or never used for devotional purposes. The lower 
 chamber is encumbered with rubbish, and over-grown 
 with rank moss, being, without doubt, a very favourite 
 haunt of the families of snakes, and lurking scorpions ; 
 while the upper apartm.ent, to which access is gained 
 by a flight of decayed steps in the rear, has become 
 the privileged resort of bats and noisome vampires. 
 The platform round this room has once been fenced
 
 KUXKHUL. 231 
 
 with a handsome balustrade of carved stone, but few 
 fragments of it are now left. 
 
 My sketch of this temple was made on the morning 
 of one of those fresh and delicious days with which this 
 part of the countiy is favored even in April. Having 
 completed my task, I jumped upon my pony, who, 
 pleased to have been spared the usual form of having his 
 servant in attendance, had been nibbling the sprouting 
 grass upon the banks ; then setting off in search of a 
 new subject for my pencil, I was galloping at a round 
 pace over the broken ground and ragged remnants of 
 antiquity, when I came suddenly upon a gi'oup of 
 natives, evidently confabulating upon matters of mo- 
 ment and excitement. Upon the summit of a small 
 knoll, under the shadow of a gigantic people tree, sat 
 five well looking Brahmins face to face in a circle, 
 engaged in earnest discussion ; immediately at the foot 
 of the tree stood a tall, and I fancied rather a graceful 
 female, whom, though closely veiled, I should also 
 hav^e guessed to be youthful, and by her side a man 
 of no prepossessing figure or countenance, thick set, 
 awkward, and in feature ugly and villanous. At a 
 short distance from them, immediately without the 
 circle formed by the wise men in conclave, stood a 
 comely youth with downcast eye and abashed de- 
 meanor, which betokened some cause for confusion, 
 beyond his presence before the venerable Brahmins, or 
 the gaze of the crowd of spectators who had gathered 
 around the group. He however appeared to reply to 
 X 2
 
 232 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 the questions of his examiners without hesitation;, 
 although his voice was unsteady with emotion ; and 
 there was an impetuosity of manner, mingled with 
 occasional glances of hatred, contempt, and revenge, 
 cast at the man who stood beside the female, which 
 proved that his disquietude was not entirely on his 
 own account. I enquired of the by-standers the 
 meaning of the scene, and was informed that the 
 Brahmins formed a panchaiut, or coimcil of five, for 
 the trial of the female, who, it appears, had excited the 
 jealousy of her husband, the forbidding person who 
 stood beside her. The youth was he who shared her 
 suspicions, and the guilt of the parties having been 
 pretty clearly established in the opinion of the Brah- 
 mins, he was now giving evidence of the inhuman 
 conduct of the husband towards his wife. As he pro- 
 ceeded in his story, he recounted various acts of bar- 
 barity on the part of the man, which moved the listeners 
 to indignation and verbal abuse; to which however 
 the husband only replied with looks of hardy defiance. 
 When the lad had finished his statement, he called 
 witnesses, who proved his assertions, and he then took 
 a most solemn oath of his and the woman's innocence, 
 and he was nnmediately put to the test of ordeal ; 
 which consisted simply in requiring him to eat a 
 handful of dry barley ; he performed his task much to 
 the satisfaction of his j udges, and this was sufficient to 
 acquit him from any sort of punishment. 
 
 The woman was then called upon to undergo the
 
 KUNKHUI. 233 
 
 same mode of trial, and with a trembling step she 
 advanced to the council. She then by their desire 
 uncovered her head, displaying a remarkably interest- 
 ing, if not decidedly handsome face, and winning the 
 sympathy of all the by-standers by her modest and 
 graceful behaviour. Many and fervent, I am certain, 
 were the prayers put up in her behalf, to the effect 
 that she might escape punishment by passing the 
 ordeal. Whether it is to be attributed to her nervous- 
 ness and confusion, or whether indeed she was guilty 
 while the boy was innocent, certain it is, that after 
 having for a long time masticated the barley and made 
 repeated efforts to swallow it, she found herself quite 
 unable to accomplish it; and as her inability became 
 apparent, her efforts grew less and less effectual, until 
 at last, in utter despair, and overwhelmed with fear and 
 shame, she sunk fainting upon the ground. Water 
 was sprinkled upon her face, and she was made to 
 drink a small quantity, after which she in a measure 
 revived; and then, being supported by two of the mul- 
 titude, at a signal given by the Brahmins, a barber 
 stepped into the ring, and lock by lock cut from lier 
 head her splendid hair, which reached almost to her 
 feet ; having so done, he completed the operation by 
 shaving her head ; and then the principal Brahmin, 
 rising, addressed the multitude, exhorting them to 
 avoid all crime, more especially that for which this 
 woman was punished ; for that the loss of honor in 
 such cases must be pimished by the loss of that which 
 X 3
 
 234 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 usually led to the evil, beauty. Hereupon the barber 
 again stepped forward, and taking from the implements 
 of his craft a small pair of shears, he dexterously 
 applied them to the poor sujETerer's face, and, ere she 
 understood his intention, he had severed her nose from 
 her face. A slight ciy of pain escaped her, and 
 gathering her white chuddur around her, she seated 
 herself on the gi-ass, apparently overcome with faint- 
 ness, occasioned by her acute mental and bodily suf- 
 fering, and the rapid loss of blood which followed the 
 last operation. 
 
 This is by no means an uncommon punishment 
 for inconstancy in the western provinces of Hindostan. 
 I have more than once seen it inflicted ; and in one 
 instance it was executed upon the wife of a groom 
 in the service of one of my brother officers, when 
 there was no proof of the charge, but only of trifling 
 conduct. It is a most fallacious idea, which appears 
 to be generally received among Europeans, that the 
 Hindoos are indifferent to the virtue of their country- 
 women, or that they are unable to appreciate the 
 channing excellence of modesty. I will venture to 
 affirm, without fear of contradiction fr'om those who 
 have had sufficient opportunities of forming a fair 
 judgment, that except among those classes where the 
 females are born to dishonour, there are none among 
 civilized nations more scrupulously delicate in these 
 matters than are the much libelled Hindoos; and 
 more especially the higher castes of them. If it be
 
 KUNKHUL. 235 
 
 suggested tiiat the shameless indecencies of many 
 of their religious rites argue a depravity of their 
 minds, I can with confidence declare that this is 
 disproved by experience. That these revolting doc- 
 trines spring from utter pollution of heart and man- 
 ners is manifest, but it may be daily seen that their 
 observance of them is performed in complete simpli- 
 city. It does not appear to enter their heads that 
 there is any thing like indecency in what has from 
 childhood been taught them as part of their religion.
 
 236 
 
 HIMALA MOUNTAINS. 
 
 The Hiinala Mountains are so called from the ever- 
 lasting snows with which they are crowned ; the word 
 signifying " palace of snow ;" they are otherwise 
 named by the natives Himla, Himadri, or Himachil, 
 the sense of each being nearly the same. The most 
 romantic descriptions which could be lavished upon 
 their beauties, the most powerful pictures of the poet 
 or the artist, must fall short of anything like the truth, 
 in attempting to convey an idea of the stupendous and 
 almost supernatural wonders of these sublime regions. 
 The pen in the hand of an ordinary writer is utterly 
 inadequate, is at once laid aside as soon as the wish 
 to describe has been formed; the brush even of a 
 skilful artist is almost as useless ; the highest flights of 
 the imagination are unequal to the grand reality. To 
 see, alone, is to appreciate the magnificent splendour of 
 the scenery ; even memory fails to retain it ; for again
 
 4

 
 HIMALA MOUNTAINS. 237 
 
 and again, after having beheld, we are astonished, 
 when we return, to find the interminable range still 
 more and more gigantic, more and more varied in 
 richness of the beautiful and the picturesque. 
 
 The plate represents a view of the great cone and the 
 peaks of Jumnoutri, as seen from the neighbourhood 
 of Budrajh, upon the banks of a small stream tributary 
 to the Jumna. Viewed from this spot, the great cone, 
 which may be recognized by its peculiarly regular 
 figure, appeal's lo be almost in contact wdth Jumnoutri 
 peaks, and to the eastward of them ; while in truth it 
 is full fifteen miles distant to the northward. 
 
 In Jumnoutri, as the name implies, the sacred Jum- 
 na has its source, and here the infant stream, which, near 
 its junction with the Ganges, is from two to three 
 thousand yards in breadth, ripples through a narrow 
 channel over which a man may stride. The spot at 
 which it issues from the snow, under an enormous 
 cavern of icicles, is about seventeen thousand feet 
 above the level of the sea. The mountain has three 
 peaks, which, from their lateral position, in the drawing 
 are not distinctly visible : of these the centre is the 
 highest, and is computed 25,500 feet above the level 
 of the sea. The aspect of the mountain upon the 
 north and south sides differs wonderfully; on the 
 south it is comparatively shelving, and is clothed with 
 wood to the height of eleven thousand feet, while on 
 the north it is rugged, barren, and precipitous ; not 
 even a shmb is found at a greater altitude than nine or
 
 238 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 ten thousand feet above the level of the sea. The for- 
 mation is gneiss, intersected with beds of granite, and 
 no volcanic matter whatever is found, though several 
 travellers have discovered perfect ammonites (not sal- 
 gi'am stones) in the neighbourhood of the hot springs; 
 they are common at the height of ten thousand feet. 
 The village of Jumnoutii is on the banks of the river, 
 close to a number of these springs, and is considered a 
 spot of remarkable sanctity ; Hindoos who perform the 
 pilgrimage from the low countries being themselves 
 almost deified after the adventure. The temples are 
 insignificant. From this i3lace the river becomes some- 
 what more important, and gathering force at every val- 
 ley, dashes down its precipitous channel, leading a 
 most zig-zag course, until it unites its waters with the 
 Tansa ; whence, rolling down a vast volume of water, it 
 soon bursts upon the plain of the Dhoon, on the bor- 
 ders of the great forest, where the Emperor Shah 
 Jehan, about two hundred years ago, built a magnifi- 
 cent sporting residence, for the pui^^ose of pursuing 
 the wild elephants, tigers, and the whole world of fera 
 nature, who here find hiding jDlaces. 
 
 The gi-eat cone is more than twenty-one thousand 
 feet in height above the level of the sea ; in the ra- 
 vines upon its sides are the springs which, accumu- 
 lating at one point, fonn the river Tansa, one of the 
 largest streams within the mountains, and celebrated 
 for its magnificent falls, one of which is one hundred 
 and eighty feet perpendicular, without inteiTuption, so
 
 HIMALA MOUNTAINS. 239 
 
 that ere the water reaches t?ie bottom, more than half 
 of it ascends in vapour, and furnishes continual mois- 
 ture to the luxuriant vegetation around. Along the 
 banks of this river are a race of Hindoos, who, like 
 the Parsees, worship the sun; the devout among 
 them will on no account taste food while the orb is 
 above the horizon, and many are found who refuse 
 to seat themselves during the day, while the sun is 
 visible, which, during all the summer months, is from 
 his rising until his setting, this season being cloudy. 
 
 It is common in these parts for the women to be 
 blessed with a plurality of husbands ; some of them 
 have as many as six or seven. When a woman has 
 been fortunate enough to gain one who is comparatively 
 opulent, she is sure to attract a large number of suitors, 
 since she regulates her husband's household, and dis- 
 poses of his wealth at her pleasure ; it is said, that she 
 will often put her well-to-do lord and master upon 
 short commons, while she heaps favour upon the 
 poorest, if they respectively deserve such treatment. 
 The men appear to be as devoted and submissive as 
 the wdves are imperious ; for at festivals, and on other 
 public occasions, it is usual for the women to take the 
 lead, followed by their proper retinue of husbands, who 
 take precedence entirely at her good will and pleasure ; 
 and it is not at all an unusual thing for a wife to send 
 three or four of her husbands off in different directions 
 a few weeks' journey, either to sell or purchase sheep 
 and goats, to seek for her some coveted treasure, or to
 
 240 THE ORIENTAL AXNUAL, 
 
 perform a pilgrimage for her sake ; all which arduous 
 duties are, for the most part, religiously performed, 
 without strife or jealousy. 
 
 THE STORY OF NEEL KHOAR AND HER FIVE 
 HUSBANDS 
 
 is related by the Paharrls (mountaineers) with a hope, 
 perhaps, that it may have a tendency to check all ob- 
 streperous conduct, on the part of the husbands, to- 
 wards the common wife, or revengeful behaviour to one 
 another. It is to this effect. 
 
 A woman of great beauty, named Neel Khoar, 
 having sufficient wit to select and retain her husbands 
 with proper discretion and kindness, had already taken 
 unto herself three, when she was courted by two 
 youths, who were considered the handsomest men in 
 the village. One was wealthy, and the other had only 
 his beauty to recommend him. She accepted both, 
 and preferred to the head of her household the youth 
 who had so greatly increased her comforts, by bringing 
 to her all the contents of his treasury. The other, 
 who, even in beauty, could not vie with his rival, was 
 made, for a while, the drudge of the family ; but being 
 used to such menial offices, he performed cheerfully 
 all that his mistress imposed upon him, and considered 
 himself fortunate in thus obtaining an occasional smile 
 and token of her approval. 
 
 Whether it was the effect of this submissive be-
 
 HIM ALA MOUNTAINS. 241 
 
 haviour on the part of the youth, or of other good 
 qualities which the wife found in him, certain it is, 
 that he daily increased in favour with her, and was 
 advanced from his pitiable situation to something 
 more like comfort ; and others of the family were made 
 to do his bidding, while his comely person was set off 
 by handsome apparel and ornaments. The secret in- 
 fluence which had gained him this distinction con- 
 tinued to operate with still greater force, until it was 
 evident that the wife had no will but his pleasure, no 
 pleasure but his will, and she hesitated not to heap 
 upon him every possible mark of her affection, with- 
 out regard to expense, or a thought concerning her 
 other wedded loves. 
 
 As would certainly be the case with any other man 
 under such curcum stances, the favourite became in- 
 tolerably conceited, overbearing to his fellow husbands, 
 and solely engrossed by his passion for the all-loving 
 and beloved queen of his heart. In luxury and sloth, 
 the infatuated pair passed the time away, while the 
 other men were made to slave for their support, and 
 the encouragement of their excesses. 
 
 Unused to such indulgences, hitherto humble and 
 poor, the new favourite was lost in the intoxication 
 of pleasure, his heart was abandoned to pride and 
 selfishness, while every kindly virtue lay donnant. 
 Yet, when the hours of excitement ceased to flush 
 his senses, and fresh pleasures of dissipation failed 
 to bud, in his heart he could not but feel conscious 
 
 T
 
 242 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 of the utter inanity of his fancied happiness, and 
 he lamented, while he had not strength to grapple 
 with, the dark passions which were coiling themselves 
 around his throhbing heart. The momentary pre- 
 sence of such images left clouds of sadness lingering 
 upon that fine brow where hitherto peaceful content 
 alone had rested, and this unwonted gloom, though 
 only occasional, failed not to attract the notice of the 
 vwfe. Her first smile soon became unable to dispel 
 it, and fearful of evil she sought an explanation of 
 the change, but was quite unable to comprehend the 
 half-confessed reasons alleged by the husband, and 
 taxed him with growing indifference. At first, with 
 tenderness he combatted the idea, but finding his 
 assurances fail of conviction, he at length ceased to 
 reply to her continual enquiries about his melan- 
 choly, and from that moment the woman's affection 
 was turned from him. 
 
 The favourite soon became aware of his changed 
 position, for the same breath which poured the accent 
 of querulous complaint and unkindness on his ear 
 bore the soft murmur of tenderness to the revived 
 senses of his former rival. The gifts, fond tokens of 
 the woman's love, were one by one resumed and 
 bestowed upon his replaced enemy, who already began 
 to retaliate the indignities which he had suffered while 
 out of power ; the especial luxuries of the fallen lord 
 were all appropriated to enhance the love of his hated 
 opponent, and not without contemptuous smiles and
 
 HIMALA MOUNTAINS. 243 
 
 many a bitter jest. The demons of jealousy and re- 
 venge grew large within the soul of the abused hus- 
 band, and vowing in his heart a terrible retribution he 
 retired from the hut. 
 
 He sought the hidden retreats of a lonely valley, 
 where casting himself upon the ground he remained 
 for a time in an agony of silent tears ; until alas ! black 
 rage, entering his soul anew, expelled remorse. 
 Starting to his feet, he cried aloud in frenzied passion, 
 " Aye, thus shall it be — and then, collecting all the 
 spoils, I'll hasten to join my brother in his bloody 
 trade." 
 
 In the dead of night, when the whole village lay 
 buried in profound sleep, the enraged cast-off, having 
 oiled his person from head to foot, the better to elude 
 capture, secretly withdrew the screen from the door 
 of the family hut, and having in his hand a knife 
 and a cup containing a powerful vitriol, with cautious 
 stealth he entered the lowly apartment. For a moment 
 he paused over the charpahi upon which his victims 
 lay, and then, muttering deep curses between his teeth, 
 he dashed the contents of the cup into the face of his 
 rival, and raising his extended arm he was about to 
 stab Neel Khoar to the heart ; when, alarmed by the 
 shrieks of her agonized companion, she started to her 
 feet, and with surprising strength and courage closed 
 upon her assailant, and succeeded in keeping off the 
 knife until the neighbours came to her assistance and 
 rescued her. 
 
 Y 2
 
 244 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 The beauty of his rival was for ever destroyed, 
 and finding that his once beloved wife had escaped his 
 villany, his heart relented, and he expressed the fullest 
 contrition for the crime ; but Neel Khoar would not 
 forgive him, and enti'eated her husbands to carry him 
 forth and cast him headlong down the cataract; which 
 possibly they would speedily have executed had they 
 not been withheld by the villagers. 
 
 " It must not be," said an aged Sanias (a class of 
 religious devotees) ; "he shall not die. Did the Sanias 
 of old destroy the elephant when he turned against the 
 life of his protector, or did he not rather re-transform 
 him into a mouse as a more lasting punishment for his 
 treachery ? " 
 
 Neel Khoar, having listened to the words of this 
 wise devotee, became appeased, and her curiosity being 
 excited, she requested that he would favour her with 
 a recital of the story concerning that ancient Sanias 
 and the elephant, in order that she might be able to 
 judge what sort of punishment she could best award 
 to the culprit. Then the old man, dehghting to re- 
 count the wisdom and the good deeds of one of his 
 own tribe, seated himself in the midst of them, and 
 thus told 
 
 THE TABLE OF THE MOUSE AND THE SANIAS. 
 
 " You have all of you heard of the celebrated town 
 and temples of Saniaskotta in Rungpoor. That 
 sacred place derives its name from the hero of
 
 HIMALA MOUNTAINS. 245 
 
 my story, who was a Sanias of high repute, a most 
 holy man, and a powerful worker of miracles. 
 
 " Before I proceed \dth my tale, I shall infonn you 
 hovv it happened that the place was thus named after 
 the Sanias, in order that you may be sensible of his 
 exceeding sanctity. After a life of rigid devotion to his 
 religion, and of the severest penance and pilgrimage, 
 this holy Sanias suddenly withdrew from the world, 
 and none were informed of the time or manner of 
 his departure. Hundreds of years afterwards how- 
 ever, when only the tradition of his holiness remained, 
 it happened that a raja, of the place was building new 
 works upon the fort ; and while digging the foundation,, 
 the workmen were suddenly surprised by a loud outcry 
 from beneath the solid earth ; and on looking narrowly 
 at the spot whence they had withdrawn their tools, 
 they found marks of blood, and seeing the earth move, 
 and hearing the voice continue its complaint, they 
 cleai'ed the spot and found that they had wounded the 
 head of a man who was lying in the earth. This 
 proved to be the very Sanias, who hundreds of years 
 before had lived above ground at that place ; all 
 the intervening years he had spent in meditation, 
 and still so much was he bent upon the mysteries of 
 his own thoughts, that instead of desiring to see the 
 daylight, he requested the workmen to cover him up 
 again. He was immediately obeyed, and instead of 
 building the new fortifications, the raja ordered the 
 present temples to be erected over the spot, as also 
 Y 3
 
 246 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL, 
 
 the house of mendicants and other religious buildings^ 
 which to this day bear the name of Saniaskotta. 
 
 *' Now it was during the lifetime of this extraordi- 
 nary saint that the circumstances of my tale occurred. 
 That reverend man was one morning, soon after sun- 
 rise, seated upon the earth under the broad spreading 
 shade of a superb tamarind tree, around the trunk of 
 which he had built his hut ; and while he was rumi- 
 nating upon the fruits of his own wisdom, and pre- 
 paring spiritual food for his daily disciples, a little 
 mouse, mangled and almost dead, fell before him 
 from the talons of a kite, who, having canied him into 
 the tree, was about to devour him. ' Behold,' cried 
 the good man, ' even the smallest and poorest of God's 
 creatures are worthy of our sympathy and protection ; 
 what shall I do to comfort this poor mouse ? ' Then 
 taking up the miserable little animal, he caressed it, 
 and took so much care of it, that in a few minutes it 
 began to revive ; then he gave it rice to eat, and soon 
 restored it to its full strength and sleekness. In 
 gratitude for these fond services, the mouse became 
 exceedingly well attached to the Sanias, and felt that, 
 in return for so much kindness, he was ready at any 
 time to lay down his life for his benefactor; and 
 would on no account depart from him, but continued 
 daily to partake of his rice, and to receive other marks 
 of his favor. 
 
 " It happened that, upon one occasion, while the 
 mouse was playing about his patron's cottage, a large
 
 HIMALA MOUNTAINS. 247 
 
 and very ferocious black cat came prowling by, who, 
 perceiving the mouse, was preparing to spring upon 
 and devour that poor little animal. By good fortune, 
 however, the Sanias was seated reading in front of his 
 door, and quickly discovered the jeopardy of his 
 favorite. His heart was immediately enlarged with 
 compassion, and in order to rescue the mouse he in a 
 moment of time transfonned him into a cat superior 
 in size and strength to his enemy ; so that the black 
 cat becoming terribly alarmed remained not to con- 
 template this wonderful transfiguration, but fled in the 
 fear of annihilation. 
 
 " Exulting in his increased bulk and newly acquired 
 strength, and sensible of the great peril from which 
 the Sanias had rescued him, the cat failed not to 
 exhibit an increased degree of affection towards his 
 protector, and the Sanias in return showed that he re- 
 garded the animal with fondness, as a signal mark of 
 his power and skill. Thus when he beheld the cat 
 exposed to danger by the attack of a fierce dog, he 
 hesitated not to repeat his spell, and at once changed 
 him into a larger and more powerful dog than the 
 assailant, and by this means was he a second time 
 delivered by the Sanias from threatening destruction. 
 Not very long after this new instance of the devout 
 man's supernatural power and his benevolence of 
 heart, the dog was attacked by a fierce bufliilo, and the 
 Sanias again befriended him, as he had done before, by 
 converting him into a beast of the same genus, but
 
 248 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 of more fonnidable appearance, so that his antagonist 
 again fled in fear of him. And again for the same 
 reason did the Sanias transfonn the buffalo into a 
 rhinoceros, and the rhinoceros into an elephant. 
 
 " Then the elephant became over elated at the extra- 
 ordinary good fortune which had befallen him, in 
 being changed from so weak and helpless a creature 
 as a mouse into an elephant of incomparable strength, 
 and thus rejoicing in his newly-acquired might, he 
 wandered to and fro, displaying his terrible prowess 
 in various acts of mischief and devastation, until the 
 neighbours, becoming fearful as well as angry, ex- 
 claimed, ' Who is this elephant, that he should thus 
 lay waste our gardens and vineyards, and destroy our 
 cattle ? Is he not the miserable mouse whose life the 
 Sanias saved again and again, and now his usurped 
 and unnatural strength is turned against his friends ? 
 What manner of elephant is he ? Truly his ingrati- 
 tude deserves a severe chastisement : let us destroy 
 him.' 
 
 '' Then the elephant became greatly distressed. ' Is 
 it thus ?' said he within himself. ' Then as long as 
 that Sanias continues to breathe, he will relate the 
 story of my former insignificance, and how I have 
 been exalted to my present might from the pitiable 
 condition of a dying mouse. This ignominy shall no 
 longer cleave to me. The vile Sanias shall die, and 
 with him will perish the history of my altered state." 
 Having come to this abominable determination, the
 
 HIMALA MOUNTAINS. 
 
 249 
 
 ungrateful elephant rushed upon his benefactor, and 
 would have torn him to pieces in an instant; but 
 the holy man, knowing by virtue of his piety and 
 by divine intuition, the evil machinations which had 
 sprung up in the heart of the elephant, by one blight- 
 ing glance of his eye, paralysed the limbs of that 
 jnonstrous brute, and then, pronouncing a word or two 
 of jddooy and spirting a few drops of water in his 
 face, he immediately re-transformed him into a mouse ; 
 being convinced that the degradation to his former 
 insignificance would prove a much more severe pu- 
 nishment than annihilation could ever be. 
 
 *'Now, my daughter, follow the example of the 
 wise Sanias; you have been pleased to raise this 
 ingrate from poverty and abject nothingness to the 
 favour of your love and the enjojonent of all which 
 your wealth could bestow upon him. How has he 
 requited your affection ? Now make him the laugh- 
 ing-stock of the world, and the mark of his own 
 bitter hatred and contempt, by casting liim back upon 
 his original littleness." 
 
 Neel Khoar could not but admire the advice of the 
 Sanias, and having ordered the culprit to be stripped 
 of all which he possessed, she had him branded on 
 the cheeks with a mark of infamy, and turned him
 
 250 THE ORIENTAL ANNUAL. 
 
 adiift upon the wide world. '' For," said she, " if a 
 thief in scaling a wall should fall to the ground and 
 have his hack broken, does he merit our sympathy or 
 our reproof ? " 
 
 THE END. 
 
 CLARKE, PRINTERS, SILVER STREET, FALCON SQUARE, LONDOX.
 
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