THE ART
or
WORKING IN PASTEBOARD,
UPON SCIENTIFIC PRINCIPLES:
To which is added,
AN APPENDIX,
CONTAINING DIRECTIONS FOR CONSTRUCTING
Architectural Models
Intended as a Sequel to
PAPYRO-PLASTICS,
OR THE
ART OF MODELLING IN PAPER.
COMPILED FROM THE GERMAN. WITH CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS, BY
D. BOILEAU.
WITH EIGHT PLATES.
LONDON:
BOOSEY AND SONS, 4, BROAD STREET, ROYAL-EXCHANGE.
1827.W. WILSON, Printer, SKINNER STREET, LONDON.PREFACE.
The celebrated Seminary of Sciinepfenthal, near Waltershausen, in the Duchy of Saxe Gotha, founded in 1784, by the late C. G. Salzmann, was the first German School that adopted the very judicious plan of combining- some easy manual art with the usual branches of education. Mr. B. II. Blasche, one of the Professors of that Seminary, published in 1805, in one volume 8vo. of 420 pages, his Art of Working in Paste-board, which in 1811 had already gone through four editions. It contains the theoretical principles of the art, with ample4	PREFACE.
directions for the choice of tools and materials, and for attaining* the requisite manual dexterity. To this copious work he has since added a small volume of 160 pages, for the purpose of elucidating the principles of his theory by articles of his own workmanship, which he proposes as models for imitation, preparatory to the unrestrained application of his elementary directions to any object that genius or fancy may suggest to the young artist. These two Works form the basis of the little Book which we are now offering to an enlightened Public, as an excellent Companion or Sequel to the Essay on Papyro-plastics, or the Art of Modelling in Paper, which has been honoured with a very extensive patronage. Both arts rest on the same mathematical principles, but they may be pursued as aPREFACE.
5
mere manual occupation ; and the art of Working in Pasteboard, from the more solid substance and greater durability of the material employed, may be carried to a high degree of usefulness and perfection, which eventually may be productive of substantial benefits to young persons of both sexes, who wisely devote their leisure hours to pleasing, quiet, and useful recreations, preferably to frivolous, noisy, and expensive amusements.PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS.
TOOLS.
The number of tools required by those who wish to work-in pasteboard, merely for their amusement, is not considerable. The most necessary are—
i.	A Knife (fig. 1, plate 1), such as is used by bookbinders*. It is, however, a great convenience to have several of these cutting-tools, each of a different dimension, proportioned to the thickness of the pasteboard that is to be cut. The blade of the strongest ought to be at least four inches and a half in length.
II. A flat Rule and an angular Rule, both of iron, and particularly accurate—the former at least two feet long, and one inch and a quarter
* A shoemaker’s paring-knife, with a sharp point, will fully answer the purpose—the price of the usual size, 4d.8
broad. To prevent its sliding, the underside ought to be rather rough. An additional short Rule, of about one foot in length, will be found very serviceable on occasions.
The angular Rule consists, as usual, of two unequal ends, A B and B C (fig. 2, plate 1). B C is about a line and a half thicker than A B. This produces, on the underside at c, a slanting, which insures the proper station of the angular Rule against the edge of the pasteboard. The upper side, which is without a slant, and perfectly even, serves to cut whole sheets of paper right angularly. The end A B is of equal length with the flat Rule, viz. two feet, whilst the short end, B C, is only about nine inches long. A small angular Rule, the longest end of which measures about one foot, is uncommonly handy for cutting smalt pieces of paper or pasteboard.
i II. A Rule, or Scale (fig. 3, pl. 1), of hard wood, perfectly true, from one foot to one foot and a half in length, half an inch broad, and a quarter of9
an inch thick. This Rule ought to be provided with a sliding index, from two inches to two and a half inches long, which index, on holding the Rule with the right hand, is to slide down freely upon it, hy a moderate pressure of the thumb. The more the Scale is subdivided into inches, quarter inches, and half quarters, the greater is its utility, particularly when a model is to be imitated, the dimensions of which are minutely given.
IV.	Compasses, with a quadrant, to keep them firm at any opening, and strait Compasses for cutting out a circle (fig. 4 and 5, plate 1).
Independent of the common Compasses, which may be of iron, modelling in pasteboard requires  Compasses with which circles of various dimensions may be cut out. There are two sorts of Compasses that may indifferently be used for this purpose.
The first is a pair of large wooden Compasses, with a quadrant and proportionate strong feet (fig. 4, plate 1). Both feet are lipped at the ends, cc, with iron or brass. The tip of the foot A B has at10
the end B a slit, in which is fitted a small two-edged knife, that may be screwed firm with a double-winged screw, e, passing quite through it; by this the knife may at any opening of the Compasses be kept perpendicular upon the pasteboard, so that there never is any slope in the edges; and through the fixing screw, <j, and the quadrant over which it passes, the feet of the Compasses may be kept firm at any opening, provided they be not over-loose in their lunges. This kind of Compasses* is most convenient for cutting out large circles, of one foot or more in diameter.
The second is a pair of straight Compasses, and will be found more generally useful. At one end of the stall' A B (fig. 5, plate 1) is a two-edged knife, either soldered fast, or moveable, which is best, and fixed with a screw. The point of the knife must be at an equal perpendicular distance
* An improved pair of compasses, with a cutting leg, may be purchased for about 10s.11
from the staff with the point D of the pillar C D; it is on this account that a moveable knife is preferable, as it becomes gradually shorter through grinding. The staff itself, being properly fitted in the groove g, is kept at equal distances, and to prevent its vacillating, there is a brass spring in the groove, and it is kept firm by the screw d. The best proportions for straight Compasses are these: the staff A 15 (fig. o, plate 1) ought to be eight inches long, two-thirds of an inch broad, and full two lines thick. The pillar CD is about six inches long, but the part g D, beneath the staff, must not exceed one inch and three quarters, nor must the knife be longer, or advance more, if moveable. The upper end of the knife is about two lines thick, one-third of an inch broad, diminishing towards the end, and its breadth at the point must not exceed the thickness of its upper part. The top of the pillar is like the handle of a gimlet*.
* This is kept by those who sell tools, and is called a straight compass, price 7s. 6d. and upwards.12
There is an improved kind of straight Compasses, with an indented stuff and a cog-wheel. They have the advantage of being more easily kept firm.
V. A Chisel (fig. 6, plate 1), which ought to he at least from two inches to two inches and a half broad, and to have a straight edge, sharp on both sides like the edge of a knife. Instead of a handle, it has an iron pillar, a b, several inches in length, which may be considered as the prolongation of the Chisel itself. The top is flat, calculated to be struck with a hammer. The edge must uot he too thick, because the pasteboard, in that case, could not he cut out perfectly straight; it would he found sloping. Along with this large Chisel a variety of small ones may he of service on occasions*.
VI. A Polisher, or Polishing Stick, and Wire Clamps (fig. 7 and 8, plate 1). Tho Polisher (fig. 7) is a conical piece of wood, neatly rounded by a turner’s lathe, increasing gradually to a butt-end similar to the sticks used by glovers, hut shorter,
• Chisels of a similar description are used for cutting out paper ornaments for gates.13
and without a handle: it may he either flat or oval towards the point. The wood of the common beech tree, or of the wild ash, is the best. The Polisher is from four to five inches long, and the club has from three-fourths of an inch to one inch in diameter. The polishing is performed, as occasion requires, either with the small end or with the butt-end.
A Wire Clamp (fig. 8) consists of two pieces of wire, sharp-pointed at one end, and blunt at the other, each one inch long, and moderately strong, which, after proper holes have been made by a punch or awl for their reception, are, by means of pincers, inserted by the blunt ends into a short flat handle of wood, A. These wire clamps serve to hold together parts that are afterwards to he joined or glued, as, for instance, the side pieces of a box.
DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING.
To cut pasteboard straight, and close to the rule, it is hud upon an even, smooth hoard of hard14
wood, about two feet square; the rule is kept firm upon it with the left hand, and the cutting is performed with the right. The perfection of the cut depends on the angle which the blade of the knife makes during the operation upon the surface of the pasteboard. If the cutting-tool he kept too straight, or nearly perpendicular against the pasteboard, the cut is apt to he ragged.
To cut curve lines in pasteboard requires some practice. It is best done with a strong, sharp-pointed penknife or small knife. The handle must he held with all the fingers of the right hand, the thumb excepted, which acts as a support towards the left, the cutting being performed from the left to the right, and the pasteboard is constantly moved, so that the hand always continues in the position most favourable for cutting. It will generally be found more convenient not to cut quite through with the point, but to finish the operation with the edge of the knife; and after all, whatever is cut out in this way must uniformly he15
corrected or improved with the penknife or a pair of scissors.
FLAT PASTEBOARD FIGURES.
I
The ample directions given in the Essay on Papyro-plastics for the drawing with compasses and rule, and for the flat paper figures of the five regular geometrical bodies, supersede the necessity of any further remarks on this subject. We only subjoin a few observations on the Pyramid, the Cone, and the Ball.
1. The Pyramid is a body, the base of which, like that of the prism, may be a triangle, a square, or a polygon, hot diminishing gradually in its rise towards the top, and ending in a point. The sides, above the base, are of course triangles, and the pyramid is always enclosed by as many triangular sides as there are in the base. Any section parallel with the base constantly is like that base, and like any other parallel section. In a triangular or quadrangular pyramid, for instance, all parallel16
sections are triangles or squares, but they are less in size in proportion as they recede from the basis.
To draw the flat pasteboard figure of a pyramid, describe from the point A (fig. 9, plate 1), with the side A E (which must carefully be distinguished from the perpendicular height of the pyramid, that always is less), the arc of a circle, EB; place in the said arc the sides of the base, ED, DC, CB, and draw the lines A E, AD, AC, AB; and likewise, from one divisional point to the other, the straight lines ED, DC, C B ; and D C in this case becomes the base, just as it would in a prism. These directions refer to a trilateral pyramid ; were it to be quadrilateral, the arc B E would have four parts, corresponding with the sides of the base; and instead of the triangle D F C, there would be a square. The same process takes place in polygonal pyramids.
2.	The Cone differs from the cylinder in the same way as the pyramid differs from the prism. The base of the cone, like that of the cylinder, is17
circular, but the sections become progressively less the farther they recede from the base, and the body, which is gradually diminishing, ends in a point.
The flat figure of a pyramid is, by a very slight alteration, readily converted into the flat figure of a cone. Omit the divisions of the arc E B, and all the other straight lines, except the bounding lines, A E and A B, and describe a circular instead of an angular basis, and the change is perfect. Both these bodies, the pyramid and the cone, may be shortened by any section parallel with the basis, which section causes the point to disappear, and produces a second base. Fig. 10 and 11, plate 1, A, represents the frustrum of a pyramid, and B, the frustrum of a cone.
The pyramid may he truncated on making the flat figure (fig. 9), by determining with the compasses the height of the section from the point A, through the points e, d, c, b; drawing lines frotn one point to the other, and then immediately c18
cutting through. The flat figure of the cone is shortened in the same way, yet only through a second arc of the circle e b, described from the point A.
To find the size of the ground for the base of the cone, divide the arc Eli in three equal parts, and take almost one-third for the diameter of the round base, the half of which diameter, as radius of the circle, serves to cut out the said circular base. It will be found to fit very nearly, and may easily be rectified, or serve as a standard for a second cut.
3. The Ball is a body enclosed by a regularly curved surface, in such a way that every point of this surface is equidistant from the centre of the body. A line supposed to be drawn, through the centre, from any point of the circumference to an opposite point, is culled the diameter or the axis of the ball. The number of such diameters in various directions is incalculable, but they all are equal. The diameter which goes through thecentre divides the ball into two halves or hemispheres. The bases of these halves are equal, and perfectly circular. Any other . jctinn that does not go through the centre is also circular, but becomes less in size as it recedes from the centre, yet not in the same proportion as in the cone.
To draw the flat figure of a ball, divide a straight line, C D (fig. 6, plate 4), into about 36 parts; place one end of the compasses in 1, and open them up to the tenth number counting from 2, consequently 11. Describe through this divisional point the arc A 15 from 2, and, with the same opening, the arc F G through the twelfth divisional point ; and so on until twelve such arcs are described. Then place one end of the compasses in 20, and describe the arc ab, which intersects A 15 in x and y; describe from 21 the arc fg, which intersects FG in the same manner, and continue describing 12 arcs more, which intersect all the others at the same distance from the straight line. These arcs of the flat figure are reckoned20
only from the straight line up to the points of intersection. If the drawing be correct, the length of such intersecting arcs, from one intersecting point, X, to the other, y, must be equal to six parts of the straight line of the flat figure, as they form half of the largest circle of the ball that is to be produced.
But, although the drawing of its flat figure is very easy, yet the construction of the bull is attended with some difficulty. On putting it together, the straight lino becomes the equator of the ball or globe, and all the terminating points of the double arcs on both sides centre in the two poles. To shorten the difficulties attendant on the construction any other way, take two semi-globes of metal or glass, or even of wood, neatly polished in the inside; rub this inside carefully ail over with soap, and having boiled small pieces of paper or pasteboard to the consistency of pap, mix this pap with paste; line the insides with this composition; then join the two semi globes together, and when the pulp iu tho insides is perfectly dry, take offthe moulds, and your ball or globe is ready made ; but be mindful to rub the insides of your moulds with soap, before you line them with your mixture, or else you will have great difficulty in removing the moulds.
To cover with paper the ball which you have thus obtained, measure its greatest circumference with a thread, and put this thread, adding a little to its length, straight upon the paper destined for the covering of the ball; then draw the flat figure according to the afore-stated directions, cut the paper out from this drawing, and it will fit the ball. But as this covering with paper requires great attention and particular care, the shortest way, after all, is to polish the ball obtained on the removal of the two semi-globes, and afterwards to colour it.
CYLINDERS.
Cylinders may be made of pasteboard two ways, with or without forms; they are, however, generally much more regular when made upon
2122
forms or rollers of hard wood, considerably longer than the article made upon them, that they may be easily handled and removed ; and the turner of whom you order your forms must be particularly requested not to polish oft* the impression which the sharp points leave upon the ends of such rollers when turned on a lathe, because this impression indicates their centre, which it is of material importance to ascertain. But it is only cylinders of which the diameter is at least a few inches, and which are not very high, that can conveniently be made of pasteboard ; small cylinders are best made of strong drawing paper.
The first thing to be observed on making a cylindrical box is to cut the pasteboard right angularly at one end. Determine with your angular rule the intended height of the box, and mark it by a proper impression upon the pasteboard j place your rule against this impression, and cut a slip, the length of which must exceed a little the circumference of the box, whose breadth23
is always determined by the height. Lay this slip upon the table, and the roller across upon it, close to its right-angularly clipped end ; press this end with both your thumbs firmly against the roller, and roll it close upon it. Now measure the circumference, by marking on the outside, with a sharp pointed knife, the spot where the right-angular end lies upon the roller, though you had better superudd a little, because its being over-short would prevent the roller fitting the cylinder of pasteboard. When the circumference has thus been determined, the slip is taken off the roller, placed across before you on the table, and the ruler held against it, in such a way that the impression comes to lie close to the outer edge of the longer side by which you cut. The slip is then again rolled upon the form, which it must fit, so that the ends leave but a very small space between the place where they meet and the form. This space is necessary that the form may fit your work again when it is covered. The bottom is deter-24
mined by placing one foot of the compasses in the centre of the flat figure of the cylinder, and extending the other to its periphery, which it must exceed a little, that the bottom may not be too small; but it is generally safer to cut it out after the ends of the strip destined for the box have been joined.
The joining is effected in this way:—the inside of the flat figure is previously covered ; the paper for this operation is cut a little smaller than the breadth of the flat figure, but enough must be superadded to the length that the paper may protrude about half an inch at one end, for it is by means of this projecting paper that the flat figure is joined in the shape of a cylinder. Experience will soon teach you to avoid proceeding with your work when either too dry or too damp. To roll and round the flat figure, you want a form of less circumference than the inner one of the cylinder that is to be joined, that the ends may lie about one inch, or an inch and a half, one over the other.25
The wire clamps are then used, and the point of one wire must penetrate the pasteboard above the projecting paper, and the other through the paper. During this operation the Hat figure must not lie too close to the form, but must rather be kept a little loose, to be more easily removed. The rounding is most complete when the ends of the flat figure do not lie more than one inch one above the oilier at the moment you apply the wire clamps. But a thread, wound round the rolled pasteboard, performs nearly the same oflice as the clamps.
As soon as your work has been completely dried in this situation, the thread or the wire clamps are removed, and the cylinder is easily joined by means of the projecting paper. Glue is in this case preferable to paste, hut it must he thin, and laid on equally, that it may not spoil the coloured paper with which your work is probably covered. And the better to secure the joining, a strip of paper may he glued on the outside upon the joint; hut it is not absolutely necessary, if the cylinder26
Las been properly glued. The form is then put once more into the cylinder, for the purpose of polishing and rounding.
To make cylindrical boxes, with a ledge which is to fit a lid, two cylinders, a b and cd (fig. 4, plate 4) are placed exactly one over the other; but the outer one (the ledge piece) must be shorter than the inner one (the main cylinder) by the height a g\ and the circumference of the ledge piece and of the lid is immediately determined upon the cylinder a b. Make, therefore, the flat figure of both the ledge piece and the lid in one piece,	«nd	after	you have ascertained	the required	length for	the circumference, cut	off the
pasteboard for the lid; thus you are perfectly sure that the lid and the ledge-piece have equal diameters, on which circumstance the regularity of the work chiefly depends. Take the piece which	is to	form	the ledge off the main	cylinder
before	you	cover	it, that its upper edge	may be
neatly covered, and that its circumference may be27
more readily altered in case of need. Sliould it be too loose after it is covered, place it before a (ire or in the sun to shrink, until it fits, and do the same with the lid. To remedy the contrary defect, it must be dried slowly, and fitted in a damp state. As for the lid, if it does not tit exactly you may either stretch it a little by placing it when damp on a larger form rubbed over with soap, or by strongly polishing the inside when dry; or you may scrape or rasp the ledge with a sharp knife, if the pasteboard is sufficiently stout; but strict attention in measuring the circumference supersedes the necessity of any subsequent correction.
To make the two bottoms of the cylinders equal, place the one in the other so that the ledge piece projects below as much over the inner cylinder as the thickness of the bottom to be let in, and then glue the bottom in this projecture. To give greater solidity to the bottom of the lid, make a similar groove by glueing in its inside a small ledge of pasteboard, not over-thin; thus the points of28
contact between the bottom and the lid when the glue is applied are considerably multiplied.
The process is the same for paper cylinders. You must also use forms or rollers of hard wood, a sponge to wet the form, a hair brush, and a sharp penknife. Glue is likewise preferable to paste for joining, but it must not be too thick. Cylindrical paper articles with a ledge and lid require two forms, one for the inner cylinder, the other for the outer and lid, which are both rolletl upon the same form. The proper size of the latter is best found by making over the first thiuner form a paper cylinder of requisite strength, and measuring its diameter, when still fresh, with a turner’s compasses or callipers ; this diameter gives the dimension of the form for the ledge and the lid. The rounding and polishing is best performed on a turner’s lathe ; or in lieu of which you may take a strip of thin pasteboard, with a very straight edge, hold it firm against the cylinder at the part whichrequires clipping, and you will thus be enabled to finish the rounding and clipping out of hand.
Cylinders in general are of the utmost importance in the construction of larger and more interesting objects. They serve for columns, pillars, steeples, towers, and other architectural ornaments; but works of that magnitude and elegance must not be attempted before great proficiency has been acquired in the making of less important cylindrical objects, such as fancy portable work cushions, pen cases, candlesticks, &c. of which some models are given in the following pages.
COLOURING, VARNISHING, GILDING,
&c.
Tub ground-work or base of any object in pasteboard, and particularly of cylindrical objects, ought always to be of strong pasteboard, doubled and glued together, or of thin mill-board, that it may not bend or get a cast. The lids or tops require only strong pasteboard, not doubled. Rut in any operation whatever every thing depends on
2930
the goodness of the material employed ; and objects that are to be coloured and varnished over require the highest degree of smoothness and polish. Light colours do not bear varnishing well ; rose pink, sky-blue, and apple-green are liable to get dirtied, in spite of the utmost care. Marbled, spotted, and plain dark coloured papers, as brown, violet, black, and such like, are best calculated for varnishing. They must previously be washed over several times with a preparation, which lixes the colours, and serves to (ill up the littlo interstices of the paper.
The best preparation of this kind is that of isinglass or parchment size, and for dark colours it may be made of common, clear joiners’ glue. Two or three coats are sufficient for dark colours; bright ones require four or five. Particular care must be had, however, that the process be not repeated before it has had time to dry; and it is only after the last coat is thoroughly dried up that you may safely proceed to varnishing.31
If, instead of covering the object which you have constructed of pasteboard with coloured paper, you wish to paint or colour it yourself, you must cover it with strong wove drawing paper, and your painting or colouring must of course take place previously to laying on the size and the varnish; aud the size must be repeated the same number of times, whether you have painted your work or covered it with coloured paper.
Varnishing serves both to enhance and to preserve the beauty of the colours, and as it counteracts in some degree the destructive influence of the atmosphere and of insects, it may also be said to contribute to the durability of the object itself. Varnish is a solution of resin in a congenial fluid. The superiority of the Chinese and Japanese varnishing arises chiefly from the excellence of a particular species of resin found in China and Japan, of which the inhabitants make a mystery. Resins are soluble in oil and in spirit of wine. The former are much longer in drying, but of32
greater durability. The spirit of wine must he highly rectified, and of oils, old linseed oil is the best. But as the solution of resins, particularly in oil, is attended with some danger, on account of their inflammability, it is safer to purchase varnish ready prepared by colourmen. Those who keep drawing materials will also furnish varnishes suitable to the work in hand, as clear copul spirit varnish, securing varnish, oil copal varnish, white hard varnish, &c. Japan gold size, liquid gold size, gum water, &c., may he purchased at the same places, hut remember to procure these, every time you want any, in a new vessel. The varnishing itself likewise requires some attention. It most he performed in a place perfectly free from dust, with large brushes, and in a hold manner, rapidly hut uniformly, steadily and successively, so as not to return too frequently to the same spot; particularly with spirit of wine varnish, which loses its fluidity much sooner than oil varnish. Both ought to he very thin; and the spirit of wine varnish must he33
laid on in a moderate temperatare, for if the room be too cold, the varnishing is liable to be rough, white, and unequal; if too hot, it is apt to have air bladders, to crumble, and to spoil. Oil varnish admits of a warmer temperature. Here again you must be careful not to attempt a second coat of varnish before the former one is thoroughly dry. If the object is to be polished over, the spirit of wine varnish must be laid on from fivo to eight times, and the oil varnish three or four ; but if no polishing is intended, four coats are frequently sufficient of the former, and two of the latter.
Varnished articles of pasteboard, when thoroughly dried, may be polished with pumice stone, tripoly water, and sweet oil. If it be an oil varnish, convert the finest pulverized pumice stone, by the addition of water, into a thin pap ; dip a piece of linen cloth into this pap, and rub your work with it till all the inequalities disappear, and it approaches the smoothness of a glass mirror;
D34
then dry it with a cloth, and polish it once more with tripoly and sweet oil; dry it again with soft linen, rub it afterwards with starch reduced to a very fine powder, and lastly with simply a clean linen cloth, until the varnish resumes a beautiful dazzling brightness. If it be a spirit of wine varnish, do not use the pumice stone, but begin immediately with tripoly and water, and afterwards with sweet oil and tripoly, in the same way as you treated the oil varnish.
The difference between varnished articles of pasteboard that are polished and those which have received no polish, is so striking, that you will not regret the additional trouble to give the utmost perfection and beauty to your work. Your polishing powders must always be kept in vessels that are thoroughly clean, for a single atom of sand may spoil the polish*.
* Polishing Powder is kept ready prepared at about Is. 6d. per bottle.35
Gilding includes also the laying on of silver or of any other thin metal. It requires the following apparatus:—
1. A leather cushion, rubbed with a piece of pumice stone and afterwards with chalk ; it may be fitted on a case of pasteboard, with a drawer to hold the gold leaf and the other tools. On this cushion the gold or silver leaf is cut into the requisite pieces for gilding*.
2. A thin but rather long two edged knife, free from any notches, the smallest of which would tear the gold. Both sides must he well chalked over before you use it, that the gold may not adhere.
3. A particular kind of small brush, made with the hair of a squirrel’s tail; hut bookbinders generally make use of a long, narrow, thin piece of wood, covered with cloth, which has a handle in
• This is called a Gilder’s Cushion, aud may be purchased, ready for use, for about 3s. or 3s. t»d.
f \ Gilder’s Knife, about is.the middle of the uncovered side ; or a peculiar brush called a tip (price about 3d.) will be found the most useful. This cloth or hair brush must be a little greased, that the gold may slightly adhere to it; and in addition to this brush, it is proper to have a few common camel-hair brushes at hand, to take up the smaller pieces of gold or silver.
4. The fillet, a bookbinder’s tool to imprint ornamental figures or fillets on the backs of books. It is a kind of brass roll, a few lines thick, the small convex side of which has garlands, flowers, or other ornaments embossed. In the middle of it is a handle.
5. The stamp or punch is a piece of brass with ornaments cut on its broad surface, and a handle. Both these tools are heated to a certain degree, to make the leaf gold adhere the better to the article that is to be gilt.
G. Some cotton-wool, slightly carded, and free from knots, which serves partly to fix the gold, partly to take off any superfluity, aud partly to be
3637
employed occasionally to assist in laying on the gold.
(gilding requires the same preparation as varnishing. If wood is to be gilt, it must be polished, washed over with size, and rubbed with ochre; but it is better to cover the pasteboard with strong white vellum-paper, which has previously been repeatedly washed over with size, and polished as smooth us parchment. A layer of the finest dust of yellow ochre mixed with thin parchment size, of the consistency of water colours, must then be laid on three or four times; and when the last touch is thoroughly dry, the surface of the article which is to be gilt, must be gently rubbed smooth with fine shavings ; afterwards it is washed over with thin size, and the gold leaf is instantly applied with the brush whilst the article is still moist, and kept in its proper situation by the cotton. If the object is not considerable, the best way is to apply only small pieces of the gold38
leaf at once, because the application of small pieces is attended with less difficulty than that of large ones. This precaution is necessary above all with cylindrical articles of pasteboard, the gilding of which is rather difficult. The operation, in general, must be performed in a moderate temperature, with very clean hands, in a clean room, not exposed to any draught, because the least wind may blow the leaves from the cushion, and disorder them. Gold ornaments, however, are best cut out from bright gold paper, which being slightly wetted on the plain side with pretty thick gum water, is easily laid on before the last varnishing, by which the gold ornaments are still better fixed, provided they be not varnished over more than once.
Gold and silver borders, of various breadths, numbered from one to ten, beside Vandyke gold borders, may be purchased at the fancy paper and drawing material shops, at different prices39
per dozen, according to the breadth; also gold and silver ornaments, from about 7s. per dozen and upwards, according to the size.
Pasteboard may also be covered with satin, silk, leather, parchment, glass, and other substances, in the manner that has just been stated, with a slight difference according to the material employed.
MODELS TO BE IMITATED IN PASTEBOARD.
The first six objects in plate II. represent different kinds of baskets, with and without handles, and their that figures are more or less easy applications of the Pyramid, the Cone, and the Ball; the first four have this peculiarity, that their flat figures are cut entirely out of one piece, so that all the parts are connected previously to their being put together. Multiplied deviations from the regular form will produce considerable variety. The bottom of a basket may be larger or smaller; the40
side higher or lower, strait or bent, more or less convex, &c.; and the ornaments may likewise be diversified at pleasure.
I.	A Regular Hexagonal Basket.
This basket, plate II. fig. 1, is an inverted, shortened, hexagonal pyramid; and excepting the slanting of the sides towards the top, its form is regular. In its fiat figure, plate III. fig. 1, the side a b of the hexagon, which is a section of the pyramid, or the bottom of the basket measures three inches; this is likewise the length of the radius c d, with which you describe the circle on which the drawing of the hexagon is to be grounded. The perpendicular height a e of the sides, has the same length. These sides may be more or less inclined by a greater or lesser extension of the boundary line e y at both ends. In the present flat figure, the extension e f may be one inch ; that is, exactly a third of the boundary line a <1 of the hexagon, or of the radius c d.41
After the sides of the hexagon have been sufficiently indented for the flat bottom of the basket, and after the pasteboard has been cut at the lines fa, m a, and so on, the slanting m n of each side piece is easily effected with the straight compasses.
Before the side-pieces are put together, the Hat figure must be laid upon the paper with which it is to be covered, in order to mark with a sharp pointed black lead pencil the boundary lines conformably to the flat figure. The pieces m, a,f, must not be cut out exactly, but something must be added to the breadth of the sides; so, for instance, you do not cut precisely at m a, but somewhat beyond it, parallel with m a at the dotted line, taking particular care to have sufficient paper to cover the angles, and the same precaution must be used with regard to the inside covering, though in a less degree, as the inside does not admit of any excess.
On putting the side-pieces together, you make42
use of the wire clamps, which we have described page 7, hut the pasteboard must be properly smoothed before you draw the flat figure ; after which, it is to be covered on both sides with common paper, and before it be perfectly dry, it must be pressed between two boards, or in a regular press. Its smoothness is very much increased by rubbing it on both sides with a pumice stone, and by a frequent and strong application of the polishing stick. The pasteboard must not be over thin, yet its thickness ought not to exceed the twelfth of an inch; and it may even be thinner for baskets, with bent sides, such us fig. 3, 4, and 0, plate II. because they do not require any previous covering with paper, which would inevitably wrinkle the pasteboard on the outside in the sloping parts. Every side-piece iu such baskets is better covered separately.43
II.	An Oblong Hexagonal Basket. Plate II. Fig. 2.
The drawing- of its flat figure is grounded upon the parallelogram a bed, fig. 2, plate III. the breadth of which, a b, is three-fourths of the length a d. With an opening of the compasses equal to half the length of the parallelogram, or to half the line b c, describe from a and b, two arcs intersecting each other in k, to obtain the angle a k b, after which you form in the same way the angle dec, which is equal to a k b. The line a b is then prolonged in the two opposite directions to g and f, so that b g becomes equal to the prolongation a f. You observe the same with the line c d, and you thus obtain the perpendicular height of the side-piece, which is two-thirds of the length of the parallelogram. At the extremity of the short sides of the oblong hexagonal base, you add, for instance to the side c k, the right angular lines be and * k by means of a rule,'and make44
them equal to the lines b g, a f, and so on, which gives the four short side-pieces.
To complete the flat figure, you must now proceed to the prolongation of the exterior lines of the side-pieces, on which the slanting or sloping of the latter depends. This prolongation is not every where alike, as it was in the Hat figure 1, plate III. The unequal angles of the oblong hexagon make the difference. Give, therefore, to the prolongation m = o s above the acute angle of the hexagon, half the length of the side k b, whilst the prolongation h n = p g ought to bo only a little more than half the prolongation t m. The excess above the half, to fix it more precisely, is a twelfth of i m. After all the prolongations have thus been determined, draw the lateral lines of the sides m kf n b, and so on, which may be immediately indented ; and lastly describe the arcs mn, p v, and do the same with all the side-pieces.
To be convinced of the correctness of your flat figure, put together the two pairs of short side-45
pieces with your wire clamps, hold the bottom with the extended fingers of your left hand firm upon the table, or place an adequate weight upon it, and afterwards erect the long sides. If the prolongations are too long you may easily mark with a black-lead pencil how much you have to take off; if deficient in length, you paste additional narrow strips of paper upon the edges of the side-pieces.
The most convenient size for baskets of this shape, is four inches and a half for the lung side, b c or a d of the parallelogram abed.
III.	A Regular Hexagonal Basket, with bent Sides and a Handle.
Plate II. Fig. 3.
The shape of this basket differs from that of the two former ones, for having its sides bent inwards. The lateral lines of the side-pieces are not straight but curved lines, which are best and more accurately drawn with the compasses. To46
describe, for instance, the arc C G, place the point of the compasses first in C, and then in G, or vice versa, and draw with the proper opening of the compasses two arcs which intersect each other in x. From this intersecting point or, you afterwards describe the arc C G with your compasses, the exact opening of which is easily found out; for should the arc C G fall too much within the dotted line towards the point C, it is a sign that your opening is too small, which you remedy by opening your compasses a little wider; and as soon as you have obtained the right arc, you cut it out in pasteboard, and use it as a pattern for the other arcs.
That the degree of arching of the side-pieces depends on the prolongation F G, is obvious. This prolongation is here exactly half of the hexagonal base at the side C A ; and the side of the hexagon C A is two and one-third of the perpendicular height C F of the sides.
The most convenient size of these kind of47
baskets is two inches for the long side of the hexagon. The arching of the side-pieces is best effected by a wooden roller, which must not be too slender, that the slope may be regular. The handle, which consists of a single strip of pasteboard, not over thin, may be lined with a flattened wire, to give it greater strength, then covered with white or fancy paper consistent with the other ornaments of the model.
IV.	An Oblong Quadrilateral Basket, with bent Sides.
Plate II. Fig. 4.
After you have succeeded in drawing and cutting the flat figure 3, plate III. you will find little difficulty in this, the sides being in the main the same; they are drawn and cut out in the same way. The principle of both the baskets, fig. 4 and 2, is an irregular pyramid, differing only in this, that the second is an hexagon, and the fourth an inverted quadrilateral pyramid, and that the48
latter deviates from the geometrical form by having its sides bent. The foundation of the flat figure 4, plate III. is a parallelogram bcde, the breadth of which, cd, is contained twice in the length cb. The perpendicular height eg of the side pieces is one-and-two-fifths of the breadth cd of the parallelogram. The prolongation ag is much more considerable than in the preceding flat figure ; it measures at least two-thirds of c d, because a basket of the fourth shape, without a handle, to be pleasing to the eye, requires a greater slope in its side-pieces. The size is about six inches in length, and three inches in breadth at the base.
V.	A Conical Baskrt, with a Handle. Plate II. Fig. 6.
The shape of this basket is an inverted shortened cone. Divide the arc A U, fig. 2, plate IV. into six equal parts, draw the arched pieces by these divisions, and use the knife with caution, to obtain49
clear cuts. Let the paper with which you want to cover the outside protrude half an inch beyond the flat figure. This protrusion is marked in the drawing by the dotted line A m. Give to this flat figure, before it be dried, the form of a cone, by means of a roller, so that the protruding paper be on the outside; fasten it with your wire clamps, and let it dry. C, close to fig. 2, plate IV. represents such rolled pasteboard kept together with wire clamps. But before you roll it up, you must mark the dimensions with a pencil upon the paper with which you intend to cover it. The pasteboard, after the clamps are taken off, retains, when dried, the form that was given to it when damp ; and the protruding paper now enables you to join it with paste or glue. This joining is not to be seen when the outside is covered with paper. The handle may be fastened with a needle and thread ; afterwards pressed flat, and concealed by some ornamental paper.
K50
VI.	A Small Basket in the Shape of a Bell-flower.
Plate II. Fig. (>.
The shape of this basket is very pleasing to the e)e. It is founded on the (lat figure of a ball, though not formed exactly like it, its parts, eight in number, being small in proportion to the circumference, and proportionally large in themselves. It is only through the bending of these parts that the shape approaches that of a ball, towards tho bottom, whilst the bendings at the top of the leaf give it the appearance of a bell, or rather of a bell flower, and the pedestal that of a large goblet.
To draw the flat figure 5, plate IV. trace upon the whole length of the pasteboard. d a straight line F G, place the point of the compasses (opened wide) any where at the extremity of the said line, for instance at G, and with the pencil fastened on the other leg of the compasses, de-51
scribe the arc a b through the point c. Afterwards rest the pencil iu the point d, whose distance from c determines the largest breadth of the leal; and with the same opening of the compasses describe from the point L the arc o r which intersects the arc a b at o and r. The greatest breadth of the leaf a b r o may be about four-and a third of the length, and the breadth of the whole c d two inches. With an opening of the compasses somewhat wider than c d, you may from the points c and d determine the extreme point i of the sloped end of the leaf c i d. The lower straight section above b r is a third of c d. The exact figure of a w hole leaf is represented by H close to the geometrical drawing. The first leaf cut out serves as a pattern for the other seven, so that the whole eight leaves are all exactly of the same size.
On proceeding to construct the little octagonal pedestal, on which this basket is to stand, you will easily perceive that the side of the octagon52
must be equal to the lower section of the leaf above b r fig. 5. pi. IV. Its flat figure corresponds with that of fig. 3, pi. III., the proportions only differ. The side-pieces have three times the length of the side of the octagonal base, and the exterior lines of the sides at both extremities are extended beyond a little more than half the side of the octagon.
Baskets of this shape, however, ought not to be attempted before some proficiency in the working in pasteboard has been attained. Several of the following models are of much easier construction.
VII. A Box or Cabinet for Insects, toe.
Plate VI. Fig. 7.
As the glass slide in such a cabinet may be drawn out at both ends, the two short sides A B must be lower than the long ones C I). The height of the short sides is equal to the height of the long ones from tho bottom to the groove m n. A strip of pretty strong pasteboard of the exact height of53
the short sides, and of the length mn glued against each long side-piece, and parallel with this a narrow strip of equal strength and length, glued over mn, form this groove, whose breadth is the distance left between the two strips. The latter may be glued upon the flat figure, or after the side-pieces have been erected, but the broad strip must always be fastened before the narrow one. When the groove mn is made, you cut two pieces of pasteboard in the shape represented close to F, and glue them perpendicularly in the inside at the upper edge of the short side-pieces at the same height with the lower part of the groove, so that the glass may freely slide over it.
VLII. A Tea Tray in the Shape of a Rhombus.
Plate II. Fig. 7.
For the rhombus and rhomboid consult Papyro-plastics, pages 28, 29.
Draw a straight line C D, plate IV. fig. 3, and54
describe with an opening of the compasses that may be equal to C D, arcs which intersect each other in F and L. The points of intersection determine the sides of the rhombus C F, F D, D L, LC. After you have cut out the rhombick base, which requires strong pasteboard, you cut the low side-pieces as long as the sides of the rhombus, and before you glue them you take off the inward sharp edges at both extremities, that the angles formed FC LD by the joining side-pieces, may not become more obtuse ; and as the angles F and L are more acute than C and I), the slope, on taking off the sharp inward edges of F and L, must be more considerable than that of the angles C and L. All the rest depends on the caution with which the side-pieces are put together.
IX.	A Portable Work Box.
Plate VI. Fig. (i.
BEGIN by the cylindrical box A, plate VI. fig. (i. It has at the two extremities c and e, a ledgo for55
the shutting of the two openings, the upper one a witli the lid B, and the lower one with the lid C, which is rather flatter. By means of a partition in the direction of m n, the inside of the box A is divided into two unequal parts. In the middle of the part in n there is a circular opening to receive in the lower larger compartment a small cylinder or tube, which is to serve as an axis for the thread reel D. The thread passes through the small oblong opening g, and when the box is not wanted, its end is shut up between the lid C and the groove e, that it may not escape in the pocket through the opening g. On turning the box, the spindle on which the reel turns, advances so as to hold a thimble. The upper compartment above m n is stuffed, and the opening a is covered with silk to hold the needles ; across the middle a a small slit divides the box into two equal parts : it is destined for the scissors, for which the tube of the inferior compartment, over which the reel turns, serves as a sheath.56
The height, without the lid, is three inches and a half; the diameter two inches; the upper lid about one inch and a half; the lower lid above three quarters of an inch ; the depth of the compartment for the reel is one inch and three quarters; the reel is one inch and a third long; and the whole box, when covered in, measures about four inches and a half.
The reel D consists, as usual, of two circular pieces, f and h, and the tube t. The holes through which the tube is inserted in the two pieces are best made with an auger. The sewing cushion requires a separate cylinder, to tit the upper compartment, and of the same height. An opening in the bottom gives a passage to the scissors through the tube of the lower compartment. Two square pieces of pasteboard, fitted in perpendicularly at a proper distance, form the opening for the scissors, and in this opening you glue two additional small strips sloping from the edge of the cushion towards the opening at the bottom, to form a sheath.57
X.	A Caddy in the Shape of a Prism. Plate II. Fig. 8.
This caddy has the shape of an hexagonal prism, the height of which does not measure full four inches; but the side of the hexagonal base is full two inches and one-third. At both the top and bottom there is a protruding ledge, the upper one broader than the lower one. The flat lid which is made to fit the opening by means of an inner groove, has, in its middle, a little ornament in the shape of an urn. The outside may be covered, painted, or ornamented ut pleasure. Its flat figure is contained in the first and third figure, plate III. taking tho base only, and the dotted lines of the sides.
After the sides have been erected and glued, you cut the six pieces for the inner ledge of the lid. They consist of strips of pasteboard as strong as that of the flat figure, but the strips are58
a little less than the breadth of the side-pieces, and about one-third of an inch lower. The ledge pieces must, indeed, be somewhat smaller, because, when put together, they form a prism of less diameter than the side-pieces of the caddy. The ledges on the outside of the top and of the bottom are small strips of pasteboard fastened in separate short pieces.
By proportionally enlarging the dimensions of such a caddy, and lining it with thin leaves of lead, you may make it a very handsome Tea-CADDY. The operation of lining with lead is not more difficult than that of covering the inside with paper. It is performed on the same principles, only the glue must bo stronger, and the polishing stick must be gently resorted to, in order to prevent the wrinkling of the metal. The bottom is more conveniently lined before you put the whole together, and the lid must be made after the caddy is perfectly dried, that you may be sure of its fitting accurately. It consists of an hexagon of59
strong pasteboard, over which you glue a second smaller one of the same pasteboard, the greatest diameter of which is at least two-thirds of an inch smaller than the greatest diameter of the larger hexagon. In the middle of the lesser one you may place a rose ornament cut out of thinner pasteboard, the centre of which is perforated to receive the knob mentioned above, which may be either of ivory, wood gilt, or brass.
XI.	An Open Inkstand.
Plate II. Fig. 9.
Tins inkstand differs from that mentioned in Papyro-plastics, page 60, as it consists of three compartments ; the two end ones are destined for the ink-glass and the sand-box ; and the middle one, which is cut as represented in front, serves for wafers, sealing wax, seal, &c. Besides this semi-circular projection, there is a screen at the back. Its flat figure, plate IV. fig. 1, is a kind of parallelopiped.60
Draw the parallelogram abed as base, and give to the long side ad a length of seven inches, and to the short one a b four inches and a half. With an opening of the compasses of one inch and three quarters determine from a d the points r and s, in order to draw through them the line fg, which determines the height of the sides a r = rf. Then, with an opening of the compasses of about two inches, you describe from r and s the points m and n through which the line ih is to be drawn. The points i ft mark tho places up to which the short sides are of equal height; from thence the height gradually decreases through two arcs to the point e, where the side-piece is only three quarters of an inch. The line m n determines at the same time the breadth of the compartments. The breadth of the indented sloping screen of the short side-piece may be determined by a line parallel with y h = fi, the right angular distance of which from gh is made equal to the line c e, that is to say, to the shortest height of the side-61
piece. The indented places are then marked with a pencil, and cut out of hand with a sharp knife. The greatest breadth of the screen of the long side-piece a dea is two inches ; that of the pro-jecture b c k b two inches and one-third. The greater or lesser slope of the screen depends on the more or less obtuse angle s gip = sd x, under which the parts of this screen are put together.
After the side-pieces and tho screen have been erected, you separately cut out of thin pasteboard the projecture b he, to which you give the smallest height ce of the short side-pieces.
XII.	A Cubical Portable Sewing Cushion, with Reel.
Plate V. Fig. 4.
The main part is a cube on a spindle, with two reels fastened perpendicularly in its pedestal G. The cube A may bo taken off the spindle, to have access to the reels.
The pedestal consists of four square pieces ofG2
stout pasteboard or millboard cut to the sizes and neatly covered, glued one over the other, the lowest and largest of which is equal to the base or side of the cube; the succeeding ones are each less in size, and form altogether four steps on the four sides. In each of these square pieces, except the undermost, there is a round hole in the centre; these holes, which are all exactly of the same dimension, form a tube in which the spindle is fastened. At the bottom of the cube there are three dials of unequal size, which being likewise perforated, give a longer tube, in which the cube itself, which must not be glued, is firmly fastened.
The box, which is provided with a ledge ii, consists of two halves II and C fixed bf hinges upon two opposite sides of the pedestal. To shut the cushion up, you raise these two halves so as to make them meet, and place the lid I) on them, which keeps them together so that they form a complete box.
The flat figure of the principal part, fig. 4,68
plate V. is of course that of the cube or die in Papyro-plastics, page 40, only the sixth side is wanting, as it must he left open for the cushion.
« Great accuracy is required in the drawing and cutting of the square pedestal pieces, that the holes may meet exactly. Two diagonal hues which intersect each other, give their exact centres at the intersecting point.
The cushion itself consists of a second smaller cube slightly fitted in the first. It is stuffed with wool, arched at the top, and covered with sarsnet or satin. The cushion must be made previous to the box, that you may be sure of giving it the needful room. The height or breadth of one side of the cube, taken at the outside, gives the breadth of the side-pieces of the box. On cutting the pieces for the ledges, you add to the length of your pasteboard the height of the lid, and afterwards take off the pieces destined for the latter; they are put together separately. When the ledge pieces are properly glued and dried, you64
carefully cut the box into two equal parts. The two halves are fixed with hinges on the largest square piece of the pedestal, which must be previously ready covered. These hinges consist of strips of sarsnet about three quarters of an inch broad, which may be doubled to make them stronger, pasted upon the ends of the halves and the two opposite edges of the undermost square piece of the pedestal, so that one half of each strip is fastened to the side of the box, and the other half to the bottom square of the pedestal. When the hinges are dried, you proceed to cover the box with paper.
The dimensions are, for one side of the cube of the cushion, two square inches; the height of the spindle is three inches and a half; that of the box, without the lid, four inches ; and that of the lid nearly two inches and a half.65
XIII.	A Work Box.
Plate V. Figs. 1 and 2.
The drawing shows that the box contains in the compartments n n four reels of equal size, which may be taken out at pleasure. Between the two compartments is the arched cushion to which ladies pin their work. At the two short sides of the box are smaller compartments, b b, each of which contains a small moveable box stuffed with wool, &c. and covered with sarsnet or satin, to hold pins. The back /space, C, is empty, and serves as a case for scissors, thimbles, &c. B, fig. 2, represents the work-box shut.
The proportions are nine inches and one-third for the length; five inches and a half for the breadth; for the height, without the lid, one inch and three quarters, and for the height of the lid three quarters of an inch.
This lid is not made separately. The flat figure F66
5, plate VI., contains likewise the side-pieces of the lid. The height of these side-pieces, ac, is added to the height of the box, a b; but the pasteboard is deeply cut in in the inside at the places where the lid is subsequently to be separated from the box. These cuts are marked in the drawing by the dotted lines a d, gfy i k, and so on. They must be done very accurately, that the extremities, as for instance d and g, may meet exactly when you erect the side-pieces. When the whole has been glued and dried, the bottom is completely cut out, which facilitates the parting of the lid from the box. To effect this separation, you cut with a short penknife through the dotted lines a d, y f, i k; but the fourth line, which is not cut through as the others, serves to connect the lid with the box. The edges of the lid and of the box, which meet, are covered with a strip of sarsnet as long as the long side-pieces, and sufficiently broad to cover the corners at both ends; after which the box is covered ou both sides withpaper, which gives still greater strength to the hinge.
XIV.	A Colour Box.
Plate V. Fig. 3.
This box has four equal corresponding compartments, C and D, and O and P : the two former contain each four boxes for colours, and the other two are tor glue and gum-water. In the middle of the four compartments there is a fifth one, with a box for brushes. A partition, g e, which divides its whole length into two equal parts, serves to facilitate the lifting out of the brush box, which rests on two ledges glued either at g or e, against the side-pieces, or below at the long sides of the middle compartment. The empty space under it may serve for holding any drawing material.
The chequer in the inside of the lid, with square partitions, i k, represents a table of colours, on the sides of which there is sufficient room to write a list of them.
The construction differs in nothing from that of
6768
the work-box, except the groove for the lid consisting of four pieces, each of which is fixed separately to its side-piece, after a strip of sarsnet, that strengthens the hinge, has been glued in the inside.
ORNAMENTS.
Objects made of pasteboard, when they are «>f a competent size, may be decorated in various ways, which the genius and fancy of the young artist w ill readily suggest. But such ornaments are generally made of fine coloured paper cut into narrow slips, or of the gold and silver or coloured embossed borders, described in page 38, the breadth of which is always proportionate to the magnitude of the article that is to be ornamented. One edge, and on occasions, both edges of such paper borders, are pinked, vandyked, or cut out in small concave bows of equal dimensions ; or sometimes one edge, or even both edges of the strips form a zigzag line. In plate VI, fig. 3, the num-69
hers 1, 2,3, 4, 5, are patterns of paper ornaments cut out with punches or pinking irons. On placing the instrument a second time close to the first line which has been pierced, and stamping or pinking in a line parallel with it, you obtain a zigzag line, which being applied in different ways, forms a very beautiful ornament. Numbers 4 and 5 are specimens of such lines cut out of paper.
A particular skill in cutting ornaments with a pair of scissors, out of paper folded double, has the advantage of enabling the artist to contrive a far greater variety of ornaments than can be obtained with a punch, though perhaps not quite so regular and accurate j and here it may be observed, that if u variety of accurate paper patterns be cut, they will serve as guides for cutting others out of plain or coloured pasteboard, which will be found usetul for many purposes. This cutting out of hand demands considerable patience and a determined resolution not to grudge the time and labour absolutely requisite for the acquisition of any70
proficiency in a manual tasteful operation, which, as it leaves full scope to the fancy, becomes on that account more interesting, and is better calculated to improve the faculties of the mind than the mere handling of a pointed instrument.
To fix the ornaments upon your work, you must make use of pure starch or very fine paste, laid on carefully, but not over sparingly, on the inside of the paper borders. Many sorts of coloured paper, and especially marbled papers, have, it is true, the inconveniency that they are liable to become discoloured after tl»e coat of paste is laid on, and expose you to the danger of spoiling your work whilst you apply your intended ornaments. But the evil is easily remedied by passing the coloured paper through a very thin solution of size strongly impregnated with alum, and then letting it dry on a line before it is cut out. The ornaments must first be applied very loosely, that you may be able to move them in their proper direction by means of a blunt pen-71
knife; hut this must not be done over slowly, or your paste will become too dry, and the border or ornament will not adhere.
XV.	A Candlestick, with Phosphoric Box.
Plate V. Fig. 8.
The pedestal A has a moveable cylinder*, from which the candlestick may be lifted up on holding the hexagonal projecture, c d, with the left hand agaiust the table. This cylinder serves to hold the matches for the phosphoric box, which is to be nuder the pillar B, which is likewise moveable, and may be taken otf in the same way. For this purpose there is glued in the centre of the cover C of the pedestal A, a small cylinder, the height of which is one-third of that of the pillar, resting
* The mode of constructing cyliuders is fully explained page 21, and following.on a projecting disk of strong pasteboard with round edges, which disk is glued upon a protruding hexagon. This base, therefore, is exactly like the base c d of tho pedestal A, and it is this small cylinder which holds the phosphoric or light box. On the top of the pillar there is another small cylinder, e, that holds the socket, g, which, of course, is of pewter or tin.
XVI.	A Small Ornamental Tray in the Shape of a Rhombus.
Plate V. Fio. 5.
This tray is of the same shape as the tea tray, No. VIII., page 53. The lower part, a b, consists of two rhombick pieces of pretty strong pasteboard glued one over the other, the lower one being larger than the upper one, and this again larger than the real base, so that they form two steps. The frame, cd, which encloses the opening, , is best cut out of one piece. The outer edg'e pro-
7273
jects a little, and forms several small arcs, as represented in the drawing, plate VI. fig. 8. This edge is of rather thin pasteboard.
XVII.	An Ornamented Caddy in the
Shape of a Cube.
Plate V. Fig. 7.
THIS cubical caddy is ornamented by cornices at the top and base. The upper one consists of a small projecting quadrangular ledge, surmounted by an embossed one. This ledge is upon the body of the caddy, the other is formed by the projecting rounded border of the lid. The base consists of two stout pieces glued one over the other, the upper one of which is rounded at all the four sides. The caddy, as well as the inside of the lid, may be lined with thin sheet lead, to serve as a tea caddy.
The lid, A B, has below a broad border with a drawer. C represents this lid with the drawer74
a little opened. The foremost side-piece projects a little, and the lower part of the border is cut out, to facilitate the opening of the drawer, which may serve to hold a small caddy spoon. There is besides on the lid at D a cylindrical Hat superstructure C.
The dimensions are, four square inches for one side of the cube; the height of the border of the lid is one inch; the cylindrical superstructure one-third of an inch independent of the lid.
Erect first the two pieces for the base, afterwards the four side-pieces, which must be glued upon the upper piece of the base, so that the cornice with the rounded border may jut out alike at all four sides. The four side-pieces, therefore, must not be of equal breadth; but two of them, as for instance G aud its opposite, which are between the two others, must be smaller by double the thickness. The pasteboard for the edge of the lid may be moderately strong; but that for the drawer ought to be rather thin. On75
the foremost side-piece, i m, is glued a separate strip of thin pasteboard of equal length with the sidepiece, but somewhat broader, that it may project at the bottom. Lastly, you fix the cylindrical superstructure C on the lid A B, and fit the upper cover D to it.
The ornamental additions and knob are left, of course, to the discretion and taste of the young artist.
XVIII.	A Candlestick, with a Quadrangular Pedestal and a Single Pediment.
Plate VII. Fig. 9.
This pedestal is an inverted Hat quadrangular chest with a square base, ab, and arched side-pieces crenelled in the middle. On this base there is a flat cylindrical pediment, whose circular top with rounded border projects a little over tho cylinder, and from whose centre rises the cylindri-76
cal pillar f, which does not rest immediately on tiie pediment, but upon a cornice-like foundation, consisting of the rose, c, surmounted by a dial with rounded border. The socket, <7, which may be of tin or brass gilt, is moveable, and must be made to fit exactly in the opening of the pillar.
The arched and crenelled sides of the pedestal require particular attention. A 011 the sixth plate, fig. 2, represents such a side-piece. You first cut the four sides of the pedestal conformably to the square base ; afterwards you draw the arches and crenels, and cut them out. The rose, c, fig. U, plato VII., is made of moderately strong pasteboard. B, fig. 4, plate VI., is a correct representation of it. First describe the circle, and then with a hollow chisel cut out the crenels.77
N
XIX. A Candlestick, with Hexagonal Pedestal and Double Pediment,
Plate VII. Fig. 8.
Tills pedestal is a hexagonal prism. The «?ide-pieces are arched and crenelled as in the preceding one, but the crenels are longer, and form a kind of festoon. On the base is an embossed ornament in the shape of a concave hexagon, as an under structure for the large cylindrical pediment, which is surmounted by a smaller one, upon which the pillar rests. The upper parts of both pediments have, like c, tig. 9, rounded borders ; the pillar and socket are the same, and of similar height.
The sides of the hexagonal base, gcy or the radius of the circle, is one inch and three quarters; the diameter of the large pediment, a, is two inches and a quarter, and that of the small one not full one inch and three quarters.78
There is a correct representation of one side of the hexagonal pedestal, plate VI., fig. 9.
The hexagon with concave sides, fig. 1, plate
VI., is cut out of moderately strong pasteboard. That side, which is the under structure of the large pediment, measures one inch and a half in a straight line.
XX.	A Candlestick, with Semicubical Pedestal.
Plate VII. Fig. C.
TlIIS pedestal consists of four pieces : the first or lowermost is a quadrangle, a b\ the second, c d, has a rounded edge; the third, ti, is a chamfer or channel; and the fourth, ef, again a llat piece with rounded edge, on which rests the quadrangular structure, g /, whose upper part, g h, is likewise a square. The base of the pillar consists of three pieces: the first or lowermost is also quadrangular, but with arched sides; the second is of79
a circular shape with a sharp edge; the third too is circular, but with a rounded edge, and is surmounted by the cylindrical pillar, which is move-able, like that of plate V. fig. 8. It has a cylindrical cornice for the moveable brass socket, the plate of which, o, is fiat, with a raised border; the tube is of equal breadth throughout, and open at both ends, for there is in the pillar a wooden roller up to the bottom of the socket, which it even enters a little. This roller ha#*, at its upper end, a brass plate with three prongs, and acts as a save-all. The caudle is from the beginning fixed upon these prongs : when it is drawing to an end, the roller is pushed up, and thus the candle may be completely burnt out.
There is also room for a phosphoric box under the pillar, k ; and the hollow superstructure, g f, has a drawer for matches.
The dimensions are for the lowest piece of the pedestal four inches and a half square, and for the upper part of the pedestal itself, three inches and80
five lines square. The height of the whole pedestal is one inch, five lines of which are for the breadth of the channel, i i. The form for the pillar, k, is one inch and a half, and that of the superstructure, «, eleven lines. The height of the pillar is three inches and a half, and that of its superstructure only one inch.
The channels or chamfers, » », consist of four pieces. Cut four strips of thin pasteboard of proper length and breadth, like A, fig, 4, plate VII. hollow at both ends. Bend them upon a roller, and then glue them upon the piece, c d ; when the latter is dry, glue the other piece, e f, upon the channel, behind each part of which you previously glue a perpendicular strip of strong pasteboard of equal height, and thus c d, is better supported, as it finds more points of contact. The lower part of the base of the pillar is first cut out square, with strait sides, and then the slope is drawn like fig. 3, plate VII. and cut out of hand.81
XXI.	An Inkstand in the Shape of a Castle, with a Tower.
Plate VII. Fig. 5.
Thb whole building, with its tower, rests upon a wall which consists of two elevations, of different height. The first, a b, is solid, but the second, c d, hollow, being destined to hold a drawer. In the centre, ey there is a terrace of four or five steps, leading to tho principal entrance, which, like the other two doors, is not real, but only painted. The right wing, C n, is for the ink glass; the left, Am, for the saud box, the flat roofs being made to be drawn out sideways, that of the right wing in the direction A C, and that of the left wing in the direction C A. The upper part of the building, which, from its balcony, i/, and the door behind it, has the appearance of a saloon, forms, in the inside, a single compartment, that comes down to m n, and contains the lower part of the tower. This tower, H, is to hold the pens ; it is moveable; its lower G82
part is made to fitthe upper part, G, of the building, and comes down to m n ; it must be fitted in so as to be very steady and yet easily lifted out. The cupola, L, with the lantern, k, forms the lid of the pencase, and has, as such, a ledge that fits the upper part of the tower.
The length, A C, of the inkstand, is five inches and three quarters, the breadth two inches. Each of the two steps, a b and c cl, projects 011 all sides •full three lines. The height of the first step is two lines ; that of the second three quarters of an inch; the whole height, without the steps, that is to say, from m n up to G, is three inches nine lines. The upper part, G, is two inches and one line square; the tower, If, one inch nine lines square ; the height of the tower from G up to the cupola is four inches and a half; the cupola itself up to the lantern is one inch eight lines high, and the remainder of the top part three inches three lines.
With regard to the construction, you begin, as you ought in general, with the main body. The83
front of the inkstand, without the tower and steps,
is one piece with the part G; the back wall is cut
exactly like it. Between both walls there are two
partitions across, in the direction o m, p n;
they are as long as o m — p n, and form the case
for the lower part of the tower. On cutting-
the short side pieces, A c and C 7t, you must
not forget that they are to have sliding lids,
which act as flat roofs to the two wings of the r	,
building. The front of the large step, c d, is left
open for a drawer. The terrace, e, consists of four
or five semicircular pieces of strong pasteboard,
one over the other in the form of steps. The
lowest step is in connexion with the base, a b, and
forms a semicircular projecture: but the next is
not connected with it, and merely glued to the
drawer, as are also the others which are connected.
Care must be had that the drawer remains move-
able, and that it may be opened with ease. You
make in the bottom of the second step from the
ground a notch, in which you glue a small ribband,
the end of which may be bid under the dial, a b.84
An arched projecture, if, forms {be balcony, which, iike the flat roofs, A i C f3 is surround'd with a crenelled screen, that represents railings or a balustrade. The upper part, G, has also, on all sides, a projecture of a few lines, ornamented in the same way.
When all is dry you proceed to make the tower, which offers no difficulty. The sidepieces of the cupola have a double bend, in opposite directions. The little quadrangle, in the flat figure 1, plate
VII.	is first drawn : its side is not full six lines. The correct shape of the cupola, which is vaulted at the top and hollow below, depends on the exact delineation of the lateral lines of the sidepieces, a b. The lantern, k, consists of four pieces, glued perpendicularly one above the other, upon the flat quadrangle of the cupola. A small quadrilateral pyramid of pasteboard, but without a base, constitutes the roof of the lantern, and in order to fix the spindle with the knob, the upper part of this hollow pyramid is filled with wax, pitch, or sealing85
wax, into which you solder the heated wire; or the roof may be made of a soft kind of wood, in which the spindle is easily fixed. The knob is about the size of a pea; and a round pea or a bead, may actually serve for it. The groove for the cupola, by means of which the latter may be placed upon the tower, and removed like a lid, is a case open on both sides, whose sidepieces are cut conformably to tho inner circumference of the tower, and glued in the upper part of tho cupola.
XXII.	A Watchstand in the shape op a Monument.
Plate V. Fig. 6.
The die of the pedestal, A B, rests on three unequal pieces, which form three steps of different height. It is a quadrilateral box (a parallelepiped) whose base is not a square but an oblong. The upper part A C, is arched, and there is a smaller thin piece connected with it. On the upper part of tlie pedestal rises the base, E L, of the oval pillar, G.80
It consists of three quadrangular pieces, one above the other, like steps, the middle one of which is much thinner than the other two. Directly under the pillar is an oval piece, which projects a little. At the corners of the third piece are ornamented supporters, leaning against the base of the pillar, which has a plain cornice, and a top with an urn, N. This top consists of three pieces, of which the two lowermost and largest are oval; the upper and small one, upon which the urn stands, is circular.
As there is much room in this watch stand, besides the case for the watch, it may be also used as an inkstand. The front of the die A 11, which has in its centre the circular opening, P, for the watch, is not connected with the other sidepieces, hut with a box that may be taken out on that side. This box, D, plate 5, to the left of the monument, has a perpendicular* partition, a b, forming two unequal compui timcnts. The front one, b c, is for tho watch ; it is provided at the back with a87
spring, to press the watch forward. The back compartment, a d, which is twice as broad as the front one, is divided by a horizontal partition into two unequal parts, one above the other ; the upper one, which is rather tlat, is for sealing-wax, pen-knife, seal, &c. The lower one, which is much deeper, has on the right, under d b, a quadrangular opening, with a drawer, the length of which is equal to the breadth, a b, of the box. In the fig. D, you see this drawer a little opened at e f. A perpendicular partition divides it into two equal parts, for the ink-glass and sand-box, and its front has at r a small ribband. The hollow pillar G, tig. 6, the lid of which fits in a ledge, may be taken oft* by meuns of the urn N, and serves for a pen-case.
The length of the die or body is five inches and a half; the breadth four inches two lines ; the height, without the lid, three inches. The lower base, s t, is six inches nine lines long ; five inches four lines broad ; and eight lines high. The length of the lower base of the pillar is four inches two lines;88
its breadth three inches one line; its height four lines. The upper one is of the same height. The smallest diameter of the oval pillar is one inch ten lines; the largest two inches and a half in the opening ; and its height is six inches.
The ring round the hole P, destined to receive the watch, is made upon rather thin pasteboard, with the straight compasses, by two concentric cuts, whose distance from each other determines the breadth of this ring. Its sharp edges are after-terwards rounded ; it is washed with gum water, and when dry, polished and painted black, with a narrow embossed border of gold paper.
The spring which is to keep the watch steady against the hole P, aud which is represented, plate VII. to the right of iigure 2, by the line a c It, is fastened to the back part of the compartiment for the watch, by a piece of glued pasteboard, provided with a slit, iuto which the lower part of the spring is iuserted. The urn, N, on the top of the pillar, may be turned out of a piece of wood, and afterwards gilt.89
XXIII.	A SMALL STRIPED OVAL BASKET.
Plate VII. Fig. 7.
In baskets of this kind your attention must be chielly directed to the strips or ribs which form the open work, and to the base, which is not of open work, and cousists of the hoops abed, the bottom c d, with its strips. The latter, it is true, are not absolutely necessary, but they facilitate the construction of such baskets, and enhance alike their beauty and their durability. The base must always be first attended to, being, as it were, the frame to which the strips are fastened.
To construct this base you cut out two oval pieces of different size, the small one for the bottom, and the large one for the opening ; the greatest length of which is sevon inches three quarters, and the greatest breadth five inches aud a half; the diameter of the small one is in length only five inches, and in breadth three inches four lines. To obtain an oval, of a stated dimension, describe upon your90
pasteboard a straight line of the given length of tiie oval, divide it into two equal parts, and draw through the point of division another line to intersect the first, at a right angle ; give to this secoud line the intended breadth, but in such a way that the line of length intersects the line of breadth exactly in the middle. Thus the whole superficies of the oval is divided iuto four equal quarters. These oval pieces, which are cut out of strong pasteboard, serve as forms for the two hoops, a b and c d, the breadth of which is eight lines. They are made like cylinders, of pretty thin pasteboard, and afterwards connected by means of the four principal strips, e e; these, like tho hoops, are eight lines broad, but their length is two inches eight lines, which is the height of the basket. Something, however, must be superadded to the dimension of the principal strips, because they lose a little of their perpendicular height by being arched. This bending may be readily effected by the hand, or by means of a roller; but their91
length must be carefully noted before they are bent, because the small strips must all have the same length.
Before you put your ground-work together, glue a small ledge of pasteboard, of the size of the strips, upon the large hoop, a b, so that its upper edge be of equal height with the upper edge of the hoop : the breadth of this ledge is a third of the

breadth of the hoop. Do the same with the lower hoop, only that the ledge is not to be glued at the upper but at the lower part of the hoop. Wherever the principal strips, e r, are to join the upper hoop, you give them a fold or angle, and the length of this folded part must be equal to the breadth of the hoop, reckoning from the lower border up to the ledge. Towards the lower end the folds need not be very sensible. Mark in the upper hoop the places where the principal strips are to be glued, in such u \vuy that the basket be divided into four equal compartments. This is done by putting in the hoop an oval, on which the terminating92
points of the two lines that intersect each other, indicate the parts of the hoop where the drawing is to be made. When you are sure that the four principal strips have the proper folds, you glue them against the upper hoop, and whilst they are drying you cut out the small strips; then lay the hoop, a bt with its upper part on the table, so that the ends of the strips, e e, be standing upright; glue them, and place the hoop, c d, upon them.
The small strips are cut out of the same pasteboard as the large ones; it must not be thicker than three sheets of stout paper, pasted together. They must be bent, and folded like the principal strips. At the upper part, the strips must all be glued at equal distances from each other ; but the spaces between become gradually narrowor towards the base, c and d, fig. 7.
After tho strips have been fixed, tho hoops, a b and c d, are covered with very stout glazed paper, of equal breadth with themselves, which also jtrengthens the strips. The upper hoop is then93
pierced at its two small sides with a little chisel, to form slits for the ears, i i, iu which the large rings, n n, are to hang loose. The latter may be considered as handles, but they chiefly serve as ornaments. The ears, t i, as well as the rings, n n, are cut out of two paper cylinders. The hoops, base, &c. may be covered with fancy coloured paper ; the strips may ha>e gold borders, carefully pasted, or flowers painted upon them ; in short, it may be made a very ornamental object in the hands of a tasteful artist.
XXIV.	A small Striped Basket in the
SHAPE OF AN URN.
Plate VII. Fig. 10.
The dimensions of this basket are the following: ag, the perpendicular height of the urn, without either pedestal or lid, is five inches and three quarters ; the upper hoop, d b, is eleven lines broad, and the diameter of its inner width is four inches and a half; the small hoop, e f> has nearly the same diameter, but is only three lines broad; the third91
hoop, or the collar at g, which separates the pedestal from the urn, is eight lines broad, but onl> one inch four lines wide. The pedestal is nearly two inches high; its base consists of two strong •circular pieces, in n, of unequal width; the diameter of the lowermost is three inches five lines. o is one of the two ornaments that receive the •ends, c, of the handles, a c; the lower part of the urn above g is encircled with oblong leaves, wInch both ornament and strengthen the open work of the basket. The lid, L, is two inches nine lines high; it has at the top an orbicular ornnment, and terminates in a circular disk, i, with a projecting rouudcd edge.
As this basket has no wide strips connected with the hoops like the former, n frame must he used, iig. 2, plate \ II. A B is a cylindrical spindle with three circular pieces, c d, e/, and g //, which spindle serves to shape the urn, without lid and pediment. Kucli piece has a round hole in its centre, to fit the spindle, A B, which may he95
considered as the common axis of these pieces, und of the cylinders, n n and i i. To secure to c d, e f, and g h, a complete rectangular situation, with respect to their axis, you cut out of strong pasteboard four smaller ones, perforated like the large ones, to which they must be closely joined ; the first below c d; the second above g /i, the third above and the fourth below e f; they lit the cylinders n n and * i. The disk, c d, is for the broad hoop of the basket fig. 10; e/, for the small hoop, e f; and g h, for the collar at g, to fix the strips upon them. The said three hoops are placed on their corresponding disks, c d, e f, and g /i, but without being glued, and then you screw the whole frame in a horizontal direction, in n vice. But you must first divide the hoop on the disk, g /», fig. 2, into two equal grooves; by means of a small ledge, glued in the middle ; a simitar ledge is glued at the upper border of the hoop, c d. These ledges must be of the same thickness with the strips, which are now glued on96
one after the other, having previously been bent and folded into an angle. Each strip is fixed in three places, viz.: at the npper part of the broad groove of the hoop, c d, at tke^small hoop, e f, and below at the upper groove of the hoop, g h. They must be placed straight, and at equal distances fro meach other.
To fix the pedestal, you put upon the spindle below g h, at a proper distance, a fourth disk, of two inches and ten lines in diameter, and give it a right angular position, by means of a cylinder, which in height and width may be equal to n s. This disk is encircled by a hoop, which afterwards becomes the superstructure of the pedestal, m n, fig. 10. All the hoops are strengthened with pieces of thin pasteboard, or very stont paper, of equal breadth with themselves ; only d b must be oovered with pretty strong pasteboard, that it may rise, with a sensible bend, above the strips. The frame may now be removed with caution. You then fix the lowermost piece of the pediment,97
which is shaped like a short cylinder, the side of which is only five lines high, with a bottom in the upper part. There is a connecting dial, on which is put a plate of lead, covered with pasteboard, to give the pedestal more solidity and steadiness.
The handles are three quarters of an inch broad at the top, but cut so as to diminish to five lines towards the end. They are strengthened by a ledge, glued upon them lengthways. The leaves round the lower part of the urn must be hollowed in the inside, and fixed with a strong glue, because the stripes offer but few points of contact. The inside of the hoop d b must be provided with a ledge for the lid; and, whilst it is drying, you place in it a circular piece, that it may not lose its circular shape. The lid is made upon the spindle, in the same way as the pediment. The supporters at o, like those of the pillar of tho watch-stand, are glued against the collar g, which is ornamented at each end with round edges, fastened by halves that join the sides of the supporters, and
H98
give them additional strength. These ends of the handles, which are bent upwards, are fastened to the supporters 'by means of a thin wire, for which purpose they ure previously pierced with a red-hot bodkin.
Here it nmy be noticed, that by a display of a little taste, this may be made a very ornamental object. The closing remarks respecting the former model are perfectly applicable to the present. The stripes may bo painted, gilt, or even embossed, if care be used ; the leaves may he suitubly painted ; itt short, many embellishments will suggest themselves to a tasteful artist.99
SUPPLEMENT TO XII.
A Cubical Portable Sewing Cushion with Reel.
There is in the sixth plate, fig. 10, a flat figure of a die or cube, with the sixth side open. This figure refers to the said sewing cushion, and that sixth side is purposely left opeu for the cushion. The figure itself gives the proportions, in which the square pieces of board which are placed one over the other, like steps, diminish in size. It requires a very minute attention in drawingMind cutting out these quadrangular pieces, that the boles which are in the middle, may fit exactly one upon the other. You will easily find out the centre of each square piece, by means of two diagoual lines which intersect each other; the point of intersection is the centre.100
APPENDIX.
Thb artist having obtained a thorough practical knowledge of the preceding pages, a wide field will be open for a display of his ingenuity. The geometric bodies, as explaiued in this and another little work, entitled " Papyro-Plastics,” and the various objects dependent upon them, having been constructed with great neatness and precision, models of a more elaborate description may be undertaken; in which all the foregoing principles, as the pyramid, cone, ball, and cylinder, with their modifications, will find their application. Before we enter into a detail of the new objects to be formed of pasteboard, the young Tyro must be reminded that considerable perseverance, ingenuity, and manual dexterity will be required;101
the figures must be correctly drawn, the pasteboard carefully bent, and afterwards as carefully joined. No more gum, or glue, than is absolutely necessary to firmly hold the edges together, must be used, or the object will be smeared and disfigured. Keeping these essential observations in view, the young artist may apply the principles he has acquired to architectural models; Grecian temples, Gothic towers, and other pleasing ornaments for a mantle-piece can be made, if the time which they will necessarily take is not grudged. It is not our -intention to do more than give general directions, and point the modes we have tried with success ; the objects must be such as present themselves to the ingenious artist, and such as appear capable of being faithfully imitated. Correct drawings, or outline engravings, will furnish him with the proportions ; aud here Pinnock’s useful little Cutechism may be consulted by those unacquainted with the science; for the nearer the102
model approaches to scientific principles, the greater is the credit due to the artist.
Beautiful models have been exhibited of steeples; some of them three feet high—a miuute description of any onp of which, with plates explanatory of the different parts and ornaments, and the manner of imitating them in pasteboard, would alone form a larger volume thuu the present treatise; and after all, the desired purpose would not be answered ;—so much must be left to the contrivance und ingenuity of the modeller.
A Temple of the Ionic Order.
Frontispiece, Plate VIII.
The building represented in the frontispiece is to be imitated in pasteboard, but upon a much larger scale. The model before us is made of the best Bristol board, excepting the shafts of the pillar und some of the ornaments, which are made of royal drawing paper. It will be us well to have103
Bristol boards of different thickness at hand ; and great care must be taken that the basis of the pedestal, die, and shaft, be quite even ; otherwise, when you place one upon the other, the pillar will be found to be out of the perpendicular. The walls must be made of extra thick pasteboard, or even of milled board, if the structure be of large dimensions. In the latter case, it must be well polished, and covered with good drawing-paper, as milled board is knotty, and of the colour of common brown paper. The niches, doors, and windows, must, of course, be traced and cut out before you erect, and join the pieces for the sides ; the ornaments and mouldings must also be glued to the sides ut the same time, in order that you may be able to apply a proper degree of pressure to them ; but the lines and spaces for these mouldings and ornaments must be carefully measured before hand with compasses, and then described with a pencil and ruler. To afford better support to the sides of the building when erected, pieces104
of pasteboard must be glaed inside, sloping from what may be termed the floor to the wall.
This model, if correctly executed, will enable the young architect to make others, of a much larger and of a more ornamental description. We will now enter upon a detail of the different parts of the building, with its ornaments.
•Tiik Pkdbstal.—The principal parts of the pedestal are the base aud the die. The base, a, fig. 1, is a parallelepiped, or a solid contained by six rectangular faces, the opposite sides of which arc equal aud parallel; its flat paper figure is similur to the uube, but its parallel sides are not square but oblong ; it may be joined by means of extra thin post, pasted iusidc, after the flat paper figure is cut out upon the plau pointed out for the cylinders, page 24 ; und after
* The letters in the following pages principally refer to the sections of the Pedestal and Column, tig. i to 4, at the top of the building. For the Futablature aud Pediment, as well as the Die aud Shaft compUu, see the building.105
the sides are neatly joined, and thoroughly dry, the angles, formed by the edges, are to be gently brushed over with a mixture of a small quantity of whiting, and good paste, well rubbed together in a clean marble mortar; a lurge camel-hair pencil must be used : the interstices will by this process be hid, and a finished appearance will be given to the figure, if the mixture be properly made, and properly applied. The base, however, if tbe building be made upon a small scale, to save trouble, may be cut out of several pieces of Bristol board pasted together. The parts, b, fig. 1, above the base, which it is unnecessary to enumerate here, are also cut out of a solid ; and, in both instances, the Bristol board so prepared must be put in a press for at least twelve hours, and not cut till completely dry; considerable care is required in cutting the piece sloping towards the base, for it will be found very difficult, if not impracticable, to represent the cima reversa, bead cavetto, &c. as they strictly appear in a correct pedestal. We next come to the die, c, fig. I & 2, which
I106
is a six-sided figure, in its flat form, similar to the die or cube in “ Papyro Plastics,” page 40, but has four sides considerably higher; it is afterwards joined by the same process as the base before described, anti its angles are to be geutly brushed over with the mixture meutioned, page 104. The parts above the die, d, fig. 2, are cut out of the solid, in the same way as those below the die, sloping; in short, when properly cut and joined, they repre-sentasimilar figure, but reversed, the smaller square being at the bottom, the larger at the top. The plinth of the, shaft, e, is a flat six-sided figure also cut out of the solid, the sides right angles, and perfectly smo th *.
The Shaft, f, fig. 8 &4, is made of thick drawing-paper, constructed and joined, us de-
* The pillars may be arranged in a different manner from the way they are arranged in the building, (see the Frontispiece) ; they may be placed iu pairs, two on euch side of a door, or niche, and iu that case they may have a common, or what is termed a double pedestal.107
scribed page 2-4; it may be fluted by meaus of a very liue crimping board aud roller of boxwood, or brass, which has at least eighteen channels in the space of an inch : these (lutings, or channels are to he semicircular, and are not to be near so deeply cut as iu the crimping boards used for linen. The paper had better be rounded into a cylindrical form previously to fluting it, in order that it may keep that form after it has been under the roller: lines must be drawn beforehand, to maik how far the (lutings are to extend, and also to mark the spaces, which of course are no^ to be fluted, for the capital, g, fig. 4, and the ring-formed ornaments of the base, h, tig. 3, which latter may be uoutly imitated, by gluing pieces of white cord of different thicknesses, such as is used by ladies, round the circumference of the shaft, upou lines drawn before the paper is rolled ; and when the glue i& perfectly dry, these cords are to have three or four coats of the prepared paste (see page 104), given them by means of a camel’s hairbrush. Thk Capital, gf fig. 4, is not cut out of a sepa-108
rate piece, but is part of the same piece which forms the shaft; it is to have the circular ornaments, », fig. 4, on each side, termed the velute, to complete which yon correctly describe the curved lines, with compasses and pencil, and then take a narrow filligree, or strip of stout paper, about the sixteenth part of an inch wide, und having drawn it several times against the back of a penknife with your thumb, it will curl round something similar to the figure, i, fig. 4, intended originally to represent ram’s-horns, and you complete the figure when you fasten the edges of the cnrled filligree with gam upon the lines : when dry, the preparation of paste may be lightly laid on with a brnsh. The ornament, k, which is termed the ovolo, ought, strictly speaking, to represent alternately an egg, and the pointed end of an arrow or dart; you may, however, substitute the nearest ornament yon can procure. A steel roll, Called milling tool*, of which there is a great variety with
* These steel rolls, which run in a handle, aro to bo purchased at the tool and material shops.109
different patterns on their edges, will emboss a very pretty ornament to auswer this purpose. After you have completed all the ornaments of your column, as represented in the frontispiece, you proceed to complete the cylindrical form of the shaft by roundiDg and joining it. You then erect the pillars, of course beginning with the base. Good strong glue must be used, and the centres made to correspond in such u way, that if a hole were perforated iu a perpendicular direction, it would pass through all the centres.
The Entablature, /, consists of the architrave, the frize, and the cornice. These are formed of narrow pieces of pasteboard, varying both in width and iu thickness, glued against the sides oi the building, above the capitals, as shewn in the froutispiece, so as to represeut a ledge composed of a variety of mouldings, some of which are rounded at their edges, while others are cut rather concave. It is not necessary to enter iuto a minute description of the different parts, or subdivisions, of the architrave and cornice, as110
in a smalt pasteboard model, they cannot be imitated with any degree of accuracy. It is sullieiont for the object we have in view, to mention, that the parts of the entablature may be made gradually wider from the architrave to tho cornice ; the latter being the highest part of the entablature, projects out the furthest, and forms a kind of shelf. For the names and description of these subdivisions, the reader is referred to any introductory treatise upon architecture. It is necessary to have pasteboard of various thickness ready prepared for this purpose, as before described, page 105. A strong penknife, with a good edge, such as is termed a French penknife, and which does not shut, will be found to unswer the best. Very great care is required to cut those mouldings, and much time will be saved by cutting the edges, smooth and right angularly, or convex, or concave, before you separate the narrow piece intended for the moulding, from the larger piece which you have in hand. These mouldings or projections are fastened by means of gum or glue, upon lines druwn upon theIll
pieces intended tor the sides or walls of the structure. See page 103.
THE PEDIMENT, w, presents no great difficulty; it principally consists of three pieces of the extra thick pasteboard, about the eighth of an inch thick, aud a quarter of an inch wide, which form the three sides of the projecting triangle ; the above dimensions, however, vary according to the size of tho pediment. These narrow pieces of pasteboard for the sides require to be carefully cut, so us to present a smooth edge, and where they me at the angles, w, m, m, aud are glued, they must be cut sloping. Two other pieces of pasteboard of different widths, but of tho ordinary thickness, are glued upon each side of the pediment; tho first a little wider than tho thick inner piece; tho second a little wider than the first. Fig. n is an embossed paper wreath, pasted in tho middle of tho pediment; this wreath, however, may be omitted, if it cannot be readily procured; or any circular or oval embossed ornament may be substituted for it. lly means of the milling tools,112
mentioned page 108, running ornamental borders can be introdced in such parts of the model as may be consistent. A narrow piece of paper, the exact colour of the pasteboard, and of the width of the roll or tool, is pasted where you intend to introduce a border : if the milling tool is then used with considerable pressure while the paper is damp, the impression produced will be much bolder than upon pasteboard.
Having now explained the mode of imitating the principal parts of the structure as represented in tho frontispiece, we leave the model in the hands of the ingenious young architect to be completed, fully assured, that many improvements upon tho few hints given in the foregoing pages will suggest themselves to those who possess the necessary skill and perseverance for such an undertaking.INDEX.
Preliminary Observations................................... 7
Tools ..................................................... 7
Directions for cutting.................................... 13
Flat pasteboard figures .................................. 15
The Pyramid.......................................... 15
The Cone ...........................................  lb
The Ball...........................................   18
Cylinders................................................. 21
Colouring, Varnishing, Gilding, &c........................ 29
Models	to be imitated in pasteboard................... 39
1.	A regular hexagonal basket...................... 40
2. An oblong hexagonal basket........................ 43
3.	A regular hexagonal basket, with bent sides
and a handle .................................  45
4. An oblong quadrilateral basket, with bent
sides.  ....................................... 47
5.	A conical basket, with a handle................. 48
b.	A small basket in the shape of a	bell-flower 50
7.	A box, or cabinet for insects, &c............... 52
8.	A tea tray iu the shape of a rhombus 	53
9.	A portable work box............................. 54
10.	A caddy in the shape of a prism..................................... 67
11. Au open inkstand.................................  59
K114
Pifr
12. A cubical portable sewing cushion, with reel	61
13. A work box ................................... 6^»
14. A colour box.................................. 67
Ornaments................................................ 68
15. A candlestick, with phosphoric box 	71
16. A small ornamental tray in the shape of a
rhoiuhus...................................... 72
17. An ornamented caddy in the shape of a cube	73
18. A candlestick, with a quadrangular pedestal
and a single pediment.......................   75
19. A candlestick, with hcxagoual pedestal and
double pediment............................... 77
20. A candlestick, with semi-cubical pedestal..	78
21. Au inkstand iu the shape of a castle with a
tower .......................................  81
22. A watchstand in the shape of a monument	85
23. A smalt striped oval basket ..................... 89
24. A small striped basket in the shape of an uni	93 Supplement to the cubical portable sewing cushion,
with m I. No. 12.............................. 99
Appendix.—Architectural objects......................... 190
Model of a temple....................................... 192
THE END.
W. WILSON, PRINTER, 57, SKINNER-STREET, LONDON.f