.^ ' "l I .H I IL1 IIII— WW»WHWWiii . 1 Ill iiiiiir n il lUI. > r i i wt»y|»>«««^II Hi ' . i i mimuw L5 Pg 3 T1S3 007b^7?D b Rollo in Geneva / ^-t^f-t^-t^y^ ROLLO IN GENEVA Br JACOB ABBOTT, KEvV YORK: J II X R. A IS^ D E R S O N, PUBLISFIJEE. Entered nrcordlng to Act of Confess, !n lh« yrar 1S58, by JACOB ABBOTT. In th« Clerk's Office of the District Conrt of the District of Mati chueetU. PRINCIPAL PERSONS OF THE STORY. RoLLO ; twelve years of age. Mr. and Mrs. Holiday ; RoUo's father and mcther, traveU ling in Europe. Thanny ; Rollo's 3'ounger brother. Jane J Rollo's cousin, adopted by Mr. and Mrs. Holiday. Mr. George; a young- gentleman, Rollo's uncle. COINTENTS. OBAnSB I. — The Fame of Geneva, . II. — Planning, III. — The Ride to Geneva, . IV. — The Town, V. — The Hotel, . VI. — A Ride in the Environs, VII. — The Junction of the Abvb, VIII. — Seeing Mont Blanc go out IX. — A Law Question, . X. — An Excursion on the Lake XL — Villeneuve, . XII. — The Castle of Chillon, XIII. — Plan Formed, XIV. — Walk to Aiglb, . XV. — The Jewelry, XVI. — A FOBTUNATB ACCIDENT, rk9r 11 24 85 55 64 71 93 108 122 134 148 155 171 179 197 209 ENGRAVINGS The Castle of Chillon, (Frontispiece.) The Great Net, ... . 30 Going through the Villaob, . . . . 46 View of Geneva, . 58 The Water Wheel, .... 100 Fishing, ...... 104 Going to take a Sail, 132 The Dungeons op Chilloh, 161 The Basket Ride, .... . 185 BUOPPINQ AT GxNSTAi .... . 203 liOLLO IN GENEVA. Chapter I. The Fame of Geneva. city of Goneva. The crescent lai>i. GENEVA is one of tlic most remarkable and most celebrated cities in Europe. It de- rives its celebrity, however, not so much from it? size, or from tlie magnificence of its edifices, as from the peculiar beauty of its situation, and from the circumstances of its history. Geneva is situated upon the confines of Franco, Switzerland, and Sardinia, at the outlet of the Lake of Geneva, which is perhaps the most beau- tiful, and certainly the most celebrated, lake iu Switzerland. It is shaped like a crescent, — that is, like the new moon, or rather like the moon after it is about four or five days old. The iowci* end of the lake — tliat is, the end wiiere Geneva is situated — lies in a com})aratively open couii- trv, though vast rantres of loflv mountains, some ^11) ' 12 * ROLLO IN G'ENBVA riie blue wateis of the lake. The lake, the city, aod the river of them covered with perpetual snow, are to be seen in tlie distance all around. All the country near, however, at this end of the lake, is gently undulating, and it is extremely fertile and beau- tiful. There are a great many elegant country seats along the shore of the lake, and on the banks of the River Rlioiie, wliich flows out of it. The waters of the lake at this end, and of the river which issues from it, are very clear, and of a deep and beautiful l)lue color. This blue color is so remarkable that it attracts the attention of every one who looks down into it from a bridge or from a boat, and there have been a great many suppositions and speculations made in respect to the cause of it ; but I believe that, after all, no- body has yet been able to lind out what the cause is. The city of Geneva is situated exactly at the lower end of the lake, that is, at the western end ; and the River Rhone, in coming out of the lake, Oows directly through the town. The lake is about fifty miles long, and the eastern end of it runs far in among the mountains. These uioimtains are very dark and sombre, and their sides ris.e so precipitously from the margin of the water that in many places there is scarcely room for a road along the shore. Indeed, you go gen- erally to that end of the lake in a steamer ; and The Fame op Geneva. 13 Tho Khono. The lake of Geneva is gradually being filled up. as you advance, tlie mountaius seem to shut yon in completely at the end of the lake. But when you get near to the end, you see a narrow valley opening before you, with high mountains on either iiand, and the River Rhone flowing very swiftly between green and beautiful banks in the middle of it. Besides the river, there is a magnificent road to be seen running along this valley. This is tlie great high road leading from France into Italy ; and it has been known and travelled as such ever since the days of the old Romans. The River Rhone, where it flows into the lake at the eastern end of it, is very thick and turbid, being formed from torrents coming down the mountain sides, or from muddy streams derived from the melting of the glaciers. At the we?^ ern end, on the other hand, where it issues from tlie lake, the water is beautifully pellucid and clear. The reason of this is, that during its slo'vv passage through the lake it has had time to settle The impurities which the torrents bring dowL into it from the mountains all subside to the bot/- tom of the lake, and are left there, and thus th^ water comes out at the lower end quite clear. The lake itself, however, is of course gradually filling up by means of this process. There are several large and handsome houses 14 R r. L I N Geneva. Size of Geneva. Tlie c.tuses •»!" its cclf britv. On the northern sliore of the lake ; brit Geneva, at the western end of it, entirely surpasses them all. Geneva is, however, after all, a comparatively Rmall town. It contains only thirty or forty thou sand inhabitants. It would take ten Genevas to make a New York, and nearly a hundred to make a Paris or London. Why, then, since Geneva is comparatively so small, is it so celebrated ? Almost every person who goes to Europe visits Geneva, and talks of Geneva when he comes back ; while there are multitudes of other cities and towns, many times as large in extent and population, that he never thinks of or speaks of at all. There are several reasons for this. 1. The first reason is, that this town stands on the great high road leading from England and France into Italy. Of course it comes naturally in the way of all travellers making the grand tour. It is true that at the j»rescnt day, since steam has been introduced upon the Mediterra- nean, a very large proportion of travellers, in- stead of passing through Switzerland, go (h)\vn the Rhone to Marseilles, and embark there. Hul before the introduction of steam, for many agc-a, the way by Geneva \m\s almost the only way to Italy; and the city acquired great celebrity T u K F A M E OF Geneva. 15 Thb two n.utfs. The Alps uJ Favoy uinl the Oberknd Al{)9. Ihiough the accounts of tourists and traN-elicra who visited it on their journe3^s. 2. The ?econd reason is, that Geneva is a con- VGiiicnt and agreeable point for entering Switzer- Ijud, and for making excursions among the Alps. There are two great avenues into Switzerland fiom France and Germany — one by way of Geneva, and the other by way of Basle. By the way of Basle we go to the Jungfrau and the Obeiland Alps whicli lie around that mountain, and to tlie beautiful lakes of Zurich and of Lu- cerne. All these lie in the eastern part of the Alpine region. By the way of Geneva we go to the valley of Chamouni and Mont Blanc, and visit the vast glaciers and the stupendous moun- tain scenery that lie around this great monarch Df the Alps. There is a great question among travellei*a which of these two Alpine regions is the most grand. Some prefer the mountains about Mont Blanc, which are called the Alps of Savoy. Others like better those about the Jungfrau, which are called the Oberland Alps. The sce- nery and the objects of interest are very different in the two localities ; and it seems to me that any difference which travellers may observe in the grandeur of the emotions which they sever- ally produce upon the mind must be due to the 16 RoLLO IN Geneva. Mont Blauc. Tlie proper piouuiiciatit n of foreign names. peculiar circumstances or moods of mind in which thoy are visited. It is true you can get nearer to tlie Jnn2;frau than you can to Mont J31anc. and so can obtain a more impressive ^-icw of hig icy and rocky sides and glittering sunmiit. But then, on the other liand, Mont Blanc is leally the highest peak, and is looked upon as the great monarch of them all. And here, as tlie name of Mont Blauc will of course often appear in this volume, I have a word or two to say in respect to the ju'oper pronuncia- tion of it in America ; for the projior mode of pronouncing the name of any place is not fixed, as many persons think, but varies ui[li the lan- guage which you are using in ?(penki:;g of it. Thus the name of the capital of France, when we are in France, and speaking French, is pro- nounced Par-rcc ; but when we uie in England and America, and are sj)caking Knglish, we uni- versally pronounce it Par-is. It is so with almost all names of places. They change the ])ronun- ciation, and often the mode of spelling, according to the analogy of the language used by the per- eon si)eaking of them. Many persons sujiposc (hat in order correctly to pronounce the name of any place we must pro- nounce it as the people do who live in and aiound the place. But this is not so. The rule, ou tiie The Fame of Geneva. 17 Madrid. Paris. Rome. Mout Blanc. otlier hand, is, that we must pronounce it as the people do who live in and around the place the language of which we are speaking. Thus the jKJople of France call their capital Par-rcc ; those of Spain call theirs something like this, — Madhreedth; the Italians pronounce theirs Koran; but we, in talking English, say simply, Paris, Madrid, and Rome ; in other words, when we are talking English, we talk F^iglish throughout, using English words for names of things, and English pronunciation for names of places, in all cases where there is an English pronunciation estab- lished, — as th'Cre is in respect to all the rivers, towns, mountains, and other localities on the globe th-at are well known and often spoken of in the English world. Mont Blanc is one of these. Like the word Paris it has its Fi-ench pronunciation for the French, and its Englisli promuiciation for the English; audits English pronunciation is as if it were spelled Mount Blank or Mont Blank. Unde*- this name it has been known and si)oken of fam^^ iarly all over England and America for centu- ries ; and this, it seems to me, is the proper name to give it when we are speaking English. Its French pronunciation is very different. \i is one which none but a practical French scholar can possibly imitate, except in a very awkward 18 R I. I. T X G E X E V i Methods of prouiinciation. manner. Those who liave visited France and Switzerland, and have been accnstonied to the Frencli sound, often give the word the French pronunciation ; but it is not at all necessary to do so. The word, like Paris, has its own estab- lished English sound ; and if it is not pedar.try to attempt to give it the Frencli sound when speaking English, it certainly is not a mispronun* ciation to give it the English one. Indeed, to require the French pronunciation of the word from English speakers would be in effect to ban- ish it almost altogether from conversation ; for among the ten millions, more or less, in England or America, who speak English well there ia probably not one in a thousand that can possiblv give the word its true French pronunciation. In reading this book, therefore, and in speak- ing of the great Swiss mountain, you are per- fectly safe in giving it its plain English sound, ai if it were written Mont Blank ; and remcmbei the principle, as applicable to all other similar i^'ases. Wherever a foreign name lias become sr familiar to the English world as to have obtained an established English pronunciation, in speakinf* English wc give it that pronunciation, without any regard to the usage of the people wlio livo on the spot. But HOW J ;iiusi i(>iurn to Geneva, and giv« The F a ^r e of Geneva. 19 The tliir<] cause of tbo fame of Geneva. some further account of the reasons why it ha? been so celebrated. 3. The third reason wii}^ Geneva lias acquirt^l gf) much celebrity among mankind is the great i: umber of learned and distinguished philosopjier? and scholars that have from time to time lived there. Switzerland is a rejDublic, and the canton cf Geneva is Protestant ; and thus the place has nerved as a sort of resort and refuge for all the most distinguished foes both of spiritual and political tyranny tliat have risen up in Europe at intervals during the last five hundred years. Geneva was indeed one of the chief centres of the Reformation ; and almost all the great reform- ers visited it and wrote about it, and thus made all the world fam.iliar with it, during the exciting times in which they lived. Besides this, Geneva has been made the resi- dence and home of a great many moral and polit- ical writers within the last one or two centuries • for the country, being republican, is much moif open and free than most of the other count ii<'.' of Europe. Men who have incurred the displca.-^- ure of their own governments by their writiiijjs or their acts find a safe asylum in Geneva, wheic they can think and say what they please. All chi.^- has tended very strongly to attract the atteii lion of mankind to Geneva, as to a e-ort of lunii 20 RoLLO IN Geneva. Tlie mechanical prodticts of Geneva, nous point in respect to moral and political science, from which liglit radiates to every part of the civilized world. 4. There is one more retison, very different from the preceding, whicli tends to make Geneva famous, and to draw travellers to visit it at the present day; and that is, it is a great manufactur- ing place for watches and jewelry — one of the greatest, indeed, in the world. Travellers, in making tho teur of Europe, — and American travellers in particular, — always wish to bring home with tliem a great number and variety of purchases ; and the things that they buy tliey very naturally desire to buy at the places where they arc made. It is not merely that they hope to get them better and clieajxir thei*e, but it is a pleasant thouglit to be associated always after- wards with any object of use or luxury tliat we possess, that we bought it ourselves at the place of its original manufiicture. Thus the gentlemeo wlio travel in Europe like to bring home a fowl- ing-piece from Birmingham, a telescope from Lori do'j, or a painting fi-om Italy ; and the ladies, ic planning their tour, wish it to include Brussels oi Valenciennes for laces, and Geneva for a watch. Thus, for ol^e reason or another, immense num- iicrs of peo[)ie go -every year to Geneva, in the coui'sc of the tour tlK?y make in Euro|>e, either The Fame of G e n e v a . 21 From Lyons to Geneva. The dilizenrp. Rollo in Lyor.s for business or pleasure. It is estimated tliat tho nui^iber of tliest, visitors annually is not less than thirty thousand ; and tlie chief streets and quays of the town are marked olmost as strikingly by the conspicuousness and splendor of the hotels aa B'-oadway in New York. The place of departure in France for Geneva is Lyons. If you look upon the map you will sec the situation of Lyons on the River Rhone, almost opposite to Geneva. There is a railroad from Paris to Lyons, and so on down the Rhone to Marseilles. But from Lyons up to Geneva — which *is likewise situated on tlie Rhone, at the place where it issues from the Lake of Geneva — there was no railroad at the time of Hollo's visit, though there was one in the process of construc- tion. Tlie party wei-e obliged to travel by dili- gence on that part of the Journey. The diligence is the French stage coach. The diligence leaves Lyons in the evening, and travels all night. As Mr. Holiday arrived at Lyons the evening before, Rollo had the whole of the day to walk about the town before setting out for his evening ride. Ilis father ga^'e him leave to go out alone, and ramble where he pleased. "The most curious places," said his father, •• are on the other side of the river, where the silk weavers live. Notice what bridge you ^o 22 RoLLO IN Geneva. 3Ir. Holiday's iustrnctioDs to Rc}!o. over, SO that 3'ou will know it again, and then if you get lost on the other side it will be no mat* tor. All yon will have to do is to keep coming down hill till you reach the river, and then look np and down till you see the bridge where you went over. That will bring you home. And be sure to be at home by five o'clock. We are going to have dinner at half past live." " Tlien won't it be in season," asked Rollo, " if I am at home by half ]ta?t five? " " In season for what ? " asked his father. " Why, to save my dinner," said Rollo. " Yes,^' said his father : "it might be ii^ season to save your dinner, but that is not what I am planning to save. I have no particular uneasi- ness about your dinner." " Why, fatlier ! " said Rollo, surprised. " I have no wish to have you go hungry," re- nlied his father ; "but then if by any chance you happened to be late at dinner, it would be of no great consequence, for you could buy something, and eat it in the diligence by the way. So I was not planning to save your diinier." "Then what were you planning to save, father?'' asked Rollo. " My own and mother's quiet of mind," replied Afr. Holiday, "especially mother's. If five niin- ritc:} of the dinner hour were to come and yog The Fame of Geneva 23 A rule for children. should not appe and tell the bar maid at the inn what she is to do with them." " All that must be very amusing," said Mr, Holiday ; " but it would not be so comfortablo for your mother to mount up there. Besides, I have engaged our places already in the coupe, and paid for them.'' " Why, father! " said Rollo. " When did you doit?" "I sent last evening," said Mr. Holiday. "It i^ necessary to engage the places beforehand at iliis season. There is so much travelling into Switzerland now that the diligences are all full. T had to send to three offices before I could get places." " Are there three offices? " asked Rollo. "Yes," said his fa the'; "there are three dif Cerent lines. 26 R L T. i ^* G E S' E V A . 5Jr. Holiday pniposcs to Kt llo in )>i-o<-iire :t sr.t ii.> the Intiiuctie. '• But I'll tell \"()U what you may do, Rollo, if you please," contiiiiiod liis father. "* You may o-c to the bureau,''^ and see if you can cxcliange ynur .'c;i( ill the coupe for one in the ba»iquettc, if you think you would like better to ride tlierc. There may be some passenger who could not get a place in the coupe, on account of my having taken them all, and who, consequently, took one ou the ban- quette, and would now be glad to exchange, and pay the difference." " How much would the difference be?" asked Rollo. "1 don'i know," said ^Ir. Holiday; "five or six franc.'^, ])robably. You would save that sum by riding on the banquette, and you could have it to buy something with in Geneva." " Well, sir," ^aid Rollo, joyfully, " I should like that plan very much." "But do you think," said Mrs. Holiday, " that you know French enough to explain it at the bureau, and make the change ? " " O, yes, inotlier," said Rollo; "I have no doubt 1 can." So Rollo said ho would iinish his dii'ncr aj» Boon as he could, and go off at once to the burea;i, • Biirc:iu is the French woril Tnorning uHicc; and English pcrv plo, when triivelling in France, fa.ll ititu the habit of using thr It H-d in that 8cni>c. Planning. 2'' The condition of tlie cxcliange. The quaint old inn. " There is one other conditio n/' said his father. " If I let you ride on the banquette, and let 3'ou have all the money that you save for your own, you must write a full account of your ni<]-ht'3 journey, and send it to your cousin Lucy." "Well, sir," said Rollo, "I will." Rollo left the dinner table wliile his father and mother were taking their coffee. The table was one of a number of separate tables arranged along by the windows on the front side of a quaint and queer-looking dining room — or salk a manger, as they call it — in one of the Lyons inns. Lideed, the whole inn was very quaint and queer, with its old stone staircases, and long cor- ridors leading to tlie various apartments, and its antique ceiling, — reminding one, as Mr. Holiday said, of tlie inns we read of in Don Quixote and other ancient romances. Rollo left his father and mother at this table, taking their coffee, and sallied forth to find his way to the bureau of the diligence. ." If you meet with any difficulty," said Mr. Uoliday, as Rollo went away, " engage the first cab you see, and the cabman will take you directly thtre for a franc or so." '^ Yes, sir," said Rollo, " I will." "And if you don't Hud any cab readily," con- tinued his father, "engage a connnissioner to go with you and show you the way." 28 R CM. L O T X G E X E V A . The ccmmissioner. Roll.) sturlyin? fho map nf Lyons. "Yes, sir," said Rollo. A commissioner is a sort of jiorter who standa at the corners of the streets in the French tou-ns, ready to do any thing for any body that calls upon liim. Rollo resolved not to employ cither a cabman or a commissioner, if it could possibly be avoided. He took the address of the bureau from his father, and sallied forth. lie first went round the corner to a bookstore where he recollected to have seen a map of Lyons hanging in the window. He looked at this ma[), and found the street on it where he wished to uo. lie then studied out the course which he was to take. Lyons stands at, or rather near, the conflu- ence of the two rivers Rhone and Saone. lu comiuir to Lyons from Paris, the pjirty had como down the valley of the Saone ; l)ut now ilicy were to leave tins valley, and follow up that of the Rhone to CJeneva, which is situated, as has already been said, on the Rhone, at the |>oint where that river issues from the Lake of Geneva. 'I'he hotel where Hollo's father had taken lotlg- ings was near the Saone ; and Rollo found that the bureau was on tiie other side of the town, where it fronts on the Rhone. So Rollo followed the course which he had mark(Ml oii lor Jii'iiselj" on the niaj». In a short Planning. 29 The quay and the parapet along the river. time lie saw before him signs of briclgc:^ and a river. "All," says lie to himself; "I am right ; I am coming to the Rhone." He went on, drawing nearer and nearer. At length he came out upon the broad and beautiful fjuay, with large and elegant stone buildings on one side of it, and a broad but low parapet wall on the other, separating the quay from tlie water. There was a sidewalk along this wall, with many people walking on it ; and here and there men were to be seen leaning upon the wall, and looking over at the boats on the river. The river was broad, and it flowed very ra})idly, as almost ail water does which has just come from Switzerlarid and the Alps. On looking up and down, RoHo saw a great number of bridges crossing this stream, with teams and diligences, and in one place a lung troop of soldiers passing over. Ou the other side, the })aiik was lined with massive blocks of stone buildings. In a word, the whole scene presented a very bright and animated spec- tacle to view. Nearly opposite to the place where Rollo camo out upon the river, he saw, over the parapet wall that extended along on the outer side of the quay, a very large, square net suspended in the air. It was hung by means of ropes at t!.e fcjr eo R L L IN Geneva, The gr^Rt net which Rollo saw in Lyoup corners, which met in a point above, whence n larger rope went up to a pulley whicli was at tached to the end of a spar that projected IV. )m the stern of a boat. The net was slowly descei.(b ing into the water wlien Rollo first cauiilit a vi. w >v THE OULAf NET. ol It ; SO he ran across, and looked over the ^mr apct to see. The net descended slowlv into the water, ii P L A N ^M N a . 31 "BiiaiueRS before pleasure." T'r.e litiienu. was let down by men in the boat paying out tlie line that held it. "Ah," said Rollo to himself; "that's a cnri- ous way to rig a net. I should like to stay and see them pull it up again, so as to see how maiij fish they take ; but business first and plcasurG aflcrwards is the rule." Po he left the parapet, and walked along the quay towards the place where the bureau waa situated. " I'll come back here," said he to himself, " when I have got ray place on the banquette, and see them fish a little while, if I find tliere is time." In a few minutes Rollo came to the place he was seeking. It was in a little square, called Concert Place, opening towards the river. Roilo knew the bureau by seeing the diligence Btanding before the door. It had been brought up there to be ready for the baggage, though the horses were not yet harnessed to it. Rollo went into the office. lie found himself in a small room, with trunks and baggage arrange;-] along on one side of it, and a little enclosure of railings, with a desk behind it, on ih.e other. There was a young man sitting at this desk, writing. " This must be a clerk, I suppose," said Rollo to hini'^olf. 82 R L L IN G £ 3f £ V A , Jloilo exc-bRiiges bis eeat and g;«iiJ3 eij^hl f».-»;7c?. Opposite to wlicrc the clei'k was sittjug theitj was a little openiog in the railing.-*, for jx^?ple to poy tlieir money and take tlicir iicket? ; for peo- ple lake tickets for places in the dHigenco, in Enjope, just as they do for the railroad. Rollo ad\anced to this opening, and, looking tlinmgh it, he stated his ca?e to the clerk. He :^aid that he had a place in the co?i})^ that lii:^ father had taken for him, ])ijt that he wouhl rnther ride on the banquette, if there was rtMMii lliere. and if any body would take his ))lace in the coui-e. Tlie clerk said that there had l«eeji a great many persons after a place in Hie cfMipe sitjce it iiad been taken, and that one huh had In ken a place on the banquette, becau:^e all ihe other places in the coach Iiad l>een engaireib "I Ihink/'said the clerk, "that she will be vor)' glad to exchange with you, and jniy yrnj the dif« ference. Hhe lives not far from here, and if yoa will wait a few minutes, 1 will send and see." ^o the clerk called a connnissioner who stood nt the door, and after giving him his directinnn f^ent him away. In a few minutes ihe commit hiom^r returned, saying that the lady was veiy glad indeed to exchange. He brought in his hand a live franc j)iece and three francs, which was the diflerence in the price of the two places, Th<' clerk gave this money to Hollo, and altered r L A N' N I X . 33 Wliat Ro»-.» iUd Ix f.re tlie hour for starting. the entry on his books so as to put the lady in the coupe luid Rollo on the banquette. Thus the allair was all arranged. Rollo iomid that it was now six o'clock. The diligence was not to set out until half past seven ; but b}^ the ruies of the service the passengers wore all to be on the spot, with their baggage, half an hour before the time ; so that Rollo knew that his father and mother would be there at seven. " Tiiat gives me just an hour," said he to him- self; '* so I shall have plenty of time to go and see how they manage fishing with that big net."" He accordingly went to see the fishing, but w^as very careful to return some minutes before th*^. appointed time. Rollo had a very pleasant ride that night to Geneva. He wrote a long and full account of it afterwards, and sent it to his cousin I^ucy. This letter I shall give in the next chapter. The reason why Rollo wrote so long an ac- count of his journey was this : lliat his father required him, when travelling, to spend one hour and a half every day in study of some kind ; and writing letters, or any other intellectual occuj)a- tion that was calculated to advance his education, was considered as study. In consequence of this arrajigeuiont. Roiio was never in a hiii'iy iu come 31 R L L IN Geneva. Hollo at bis studies. to the end of bis letters, for he liked tlic work of writing tliem better than writing Frencli eier- cises, or working on arithmetic, or engaging m any of the other avocations wliich devolved \\K)n hiiJi when he had no letters on har d. i/i\]i ■. iff. The Ride to Geneva. 35 Hollo's letter to Lis cousin Lucy. Chapter III. The Ride to Gene \' a. ' Dear Lucy : " I am going to give you an account of my night ride from Lyons to Geneva. " I got to the diligence office before fatlier came, because I was going to ride up in the bellows-top. I call it the bellows-top so that you may under- stand it better. It is a place up in the second story of tlie diligence, where there are seats foi four persons, and a great bellows-top over theii heads. / think it is the best place, though peo- ple have to pay more for the coupe, which is right under it. I got eight francs, wdiich is more than a dollar and a half for exchanging my seat in the coupe for one on the banquette. I exchanged with a lady. I suppose she did not like to climb up the ladder. You see in the coupe you step right in as you would into a carriage ; but you have to go i:p quite a long ladder to get to the banquette. I counted the steps. There wero thirteen. 30 R L L IN Geneva. Packing the trunks upon tlit* <)ili_'er!ce. Ki^llds scat. " When I got to the office, the men were ueIlows-top. "The men were using the ladders when I came, getting up the baggage ; so I crnubed up by the little steps that are made on the side of the dili- gence. I liked my seat very much. IJefore me was a great leather boot. The boot was fastened to an iron bar that went across in front, so that it did not come against my knees. Above me was the bellows-top, to keep off the rain. Up under the roof of the bellows-top there was a sash folded together and fastened up by straps. 1 unfastened one of the straps, and saw that I coulil let down the sash if I wished, and thus maki} a glass window in front of me, so as to shut me in nicely from the wind, if it should grow cold in the night. Behind me was a cur- tain. 'I'lie cuitain was loose. I pushed it back, .uuld look out on the top of the dil- The Ride to Gexeva. 37 Thr ^K>stili<'Of r^-iil. K<»no'8 orangeii. igcnce where the mcii were at work packing the trunks and baggage. The mea wore blue frocka thaped like cartaien's frock:^.* *' Right before the boot was the postiiion's scat. It was a little lower than my seat, and was largo enough for two. The oondui^tor's scat was at the end of luy seat, under the bellows- top. Therf? was one thing curious about his seat, aad that is, that there was a joint in the iron bar of the boot, so that he could open his end of it, and get out and in without disturbing the boot before the rest of the passengers. When I wanted to get out I liad to climb over the boot to the postilion'R scat, and so get down by the little iron steps. " The reason I wanted to get down was so aa to buy some oranges. There was a woman down there with oranges to sell. She had them in a basket. I thought perhaps that I might be thirsty in the night, and that I could not get down ver^^ well to get a drink of water. So I climbed down and bouglit four oranges. I bought one for my- self, and two to give father and mother, and ono more because the woman looked so poor. Be- sides, they wei-e not very dear — only li'^ecn cen- times apiece. It takes five centimes tc make a sou, and a sou is about as much as a cent. ♦ Such .-x frock is called a bloiis^ — pronounced blooze. Almosl *U worV.iiific men in Frnnce v>-pnr them. Kence the clfl«8 ot wotkf men in France are eoinetimcs called th6 bicute$ 38 R L L IN Geneva Tij*" passengers take their plRCt« in tbe diligence. " When I liad bought niv orange? I climbed up Into my place again. " There were several people beginning to corae gr.d stand about the door of the bureau. 1 sup- pose they were the travellers. Some cauic in cabs, with their trunks on before with the postil- ion. 1 counted up how many the diligence would hohl, and found that in all. including the two postilion's seats, and the conductor's, that there were places for twenty-one. But when we started we had twenty-four in all. Where the other three sat you will see by and by."^ " As fast as the passengers came to the office, the men took their baggage and ])acked it with the rest, on the top of the diligence, and the pas- sengers themselves stood about the door, waiting for the horses to be put in. "Some of the jiassengcrs came on foot, with commissioners to bring their baggage. The com- missioners carried their baggage on their backs. Thev had a frame something like an old-fashioned kitchen chair straj)ped to their shoulders, and the baggage was piled upon this very high. One liommissioner that came had on his frame, first • The diligence is very lurge. It has four separate compart^ msnts. For a more full account of the construction of the Tchi- cle, and for one or two engravings representing it. see Rollo's Tour in (^witrerland- The Ride to Geneva. 39 Tolio's SHitial to his motlipr. I'iii- black ti-unk, placed endwise, and llien a port* niantcau, then a carpet bag, and <»n tlic lop a biindbox. Tlie bandl)Ox readied far above liig head. I sbonld not tliink they could possibly carry such lieavy loads. " Presently 1 saw father and mother coming in a cab. So I climbed down to meet them. The men in the blouses took their trunk and carried it up the ladder, and then I opened the coupe door for them, and let them get in. I told mother til at my place was exactly over her head, and that 1 was then going to climb up to it, and that when I was there I would knock on the floor, and she would know that I had got there safely ; and 1 did. " By and by they got all the baggage packed, and they pulled the great leather covering over it, and fastened it to the back of the bellows-top. TJhen I could push up the curtain behind me and look in at the place where the baggaje was fitowed. It looked like a garret. It was not cuite full. There was I'oom for several more t ninks at the forward end of it. " Pretty soon after this tliey brought round the HDrses and harnessed them in. Tlien the clerk came out of the bureau and called off the namoa of the passengers from his list. First he called the names of those who were to go in the coupe. He said, in a loud voice. — 4{} R LI. IN Geneva. Calling the mil. The three /ijm.-^(.-ii}rprs that s;it on ttip trunks. " ' Monsieur Holiday and Madame Holiday ! ^ " And lie looked in at the coupe door, and fallic Buid, ' Here.' "Then he called out,— "' Madame Tournaj ! ' " That was the name of the lady that had changed places with me. So she got into the coupe. That made the coupe full. " In the same manner the clerk called off the names of those who were to go in the interior, wliich is the centre compartment. The interior holds six. " Then he called off tlie names of those that wore to go in the ' rotoude,' which is the back coin|)artment. You get into the rotonde by a door behind, like the door of an omnibus. " Then the clerk called out the names of the peuple that were to come up to the banquette with me. There were six of them, and there Bcemed to be only room for three. So I could not imagine where they were all going to sit. They came in a row, one behind the other, up the ladder. Ycvy soon I saw how tiicy were goinji in sit ; for the three that came first — a man an I woman and a girl — when they came into the banquette, pushed up the curtain at the back side of it, and so climbed in l»eliind to the gai-ret, aud sat on the trunks. When the curtain wafi The Ride to (} e n e v a . 41 Postilion ilriving. Tlie coiiJiKtor cli!iil:iiig into liis seat. down, after they were in, Ihey were all in the dark iliere. " However, pretty soon tliey contrived to fasten up the curtain, and then they could see out a liltlo over our shoulders. The girl sat directly beliind inc. I asked her if she could see, and she said elie could,, very well. '•The postilion then climbed up, with the reins in his hand, and called out to the horses to start on. He talked to his horses in Fi'cnch, and they seemed to understand him very well. The great thing, though, was cracking his whip. You can scarcely conceive how fast and loud he cracked his whip, first on one side and then on the otlier, till the wdiole court rang again. The horses sprang forward and trotted oft' at great speed out of the place, and wheeled round the corner to the quay ; and v/hile they were going, the con- ductor came climbing up the side of the coach to his })lace. " The conductor never gets into his place before the diligence starts. He waits till the horses set out. and then jumps on to the step, and so climbs up the side while the horses are going. "A diligence is a monstrous great macliine, and when it sets out on a journey in a city, tho rumbling of the wheels on the pavement, and the clatteriuiJ: o* the horses' feet, and the coLtinuaJ 42 R L L IN Geneva Hollo's account of the diligence. Crossing the River Rhoiie. cracking of the coachman's whip, and the echoes of all these sounds on the walls of the buildings, make a wonderful noise and din, and every body, wlicn the diligence is coming, liurries to get out of the way. Indeed, I believe the coachmon likes to make all the noise he can ; for lie lias sleigli bells on the harness, and, besides cracking his whip, he keeps continually shouting out to the horses and the teamsters on the road before him ; and whenever he is passing through a town or a village he does all this more than any where else, because, as I suppose, there are more people there to hear him. " Presently, after driving along the quay a lit- tle way, we turned off to one of the great stone bridges that lead across the Rhone. We went over this bridge in splendid style. 1 could see far up and down the river, and trains of wagons and multitudes of people going and coming on the other bridges. The water in the river was running very swift. There were some boats along the shore, but 1 don't see how the people could dare to venture out in them in such a current. " As soon as we had got over the bridge, we itruck into a beautiful road across the country, aud the postilion cracked on faster and harder than ever. Wc had five horses, three abreatt before, ana luu behind. They went upon tlio The Kidk to Gkneva. 4S Thf postilion's wlii[). Tlie roriJ. Fretuli vill;i<:ea. gallop, and tlie postilion kept cracking his whip a) tout them and over their ears all the time. I tliought for a while that he was whipping them ; but when I leaned forward, so that I could look down and see, I found that he did not touch them with his whip at all, but only cracked the snap- per about them, and shouted at them in French, to make them go. The road was as hard and smooth as a floor, and it was almost as white as a floor of marble. "The country was very beautiful as long as we could see. There were no fences, but there were beautiful fields on each side of the road, divided into squares, like the beds of a garden, with all sorts of things growing in them. " Every now and then we came to a village. These villages were the queerest looking place? that you can imagine. They were formed of rows of stone houses, close to each other and close to the street. They were so close to the street, and the street was usually so narrow, that there was scarcely room sometimes to pass through. I could almost shake hands with the people look- insr out the second storv windows. I cannot imagine why they should leave the passage so narrow between the houses on such a great road. If there were any people in the street of the vil- lage when we went through, they had to back up 44 RoLLo IN Geneva. When Jt grew dark ihe conductor lighted the lanterns. against the wall when we passed them, to prevent being knocked down. " When we were going through any of these villages, the postilion drove faster than ever, lie would crack his whip, and cheer on his horses, and make noise and uproar enough to frighteu half the town. *' We went on in this way till it began to grow dark. The postilion handed the lanterns up to the conductor, and he lighted them with some matches that he carried in his pocket. The Ian terns had reflectors in the back of them, and were very bright. When the postilion put them i)ack in their places on the front of the coach, the liirht shone down on the road before us, so that the way where the horses were going was as bright as day. " After a time the moon rose, and tliat made it pretty bright every where. Still 1 could not see very far. and as the peoi)le around nie were talk- ing, I listened to what they were saying. The conductor was telling stories about diligences that had been robbed. He said that once, wheu he was travelling somewhere, the diligence was attacked by robbers, and he was shot by one of them. He was shot in the neck ; and he had !o keep in his bed six months before he got well. 1 listened a- well as I cuuld. but the diligence mad*' '^''"--r- GOING THROUOU THE VILLAGB. The Ride to Geneva. 47 The 8tv)ry of the conductor about the robbers. Changing horsee. such a noise that 1 could not understand all lio said, and I did not hear irhere it was that tliin happened. I suppose it was probably in Italy, for I have heard that there were a great many robbers there. ** After a while I began to feel sleepy. I don't reraember going to sleep, for the first thing I knew after I began to feel sleepy was that I was waking up. We were stopping to change horses. We stopped to change horses very often — oftener than once an hour. When we changed horses we always changed the postilion too. A new postil- ion always came with every new team. It was only the conductor that we did not change. He went with us all the way. " We changed horses usually in a village ; and it was very cui'ious to see what queer-looking hostlers and stable boys came out with the new teams. Generally the hostlers were all ready, waiting for the diligence to come ; but sometimes they would be all asleep, and the conductor and the postilion would make a great shouting and uproar in waking them up. " When the new team was harnessed in, the new postilion would climb up to his seat, with the reins in his hands, and, without waiting a moment, he would start the horses on at full speed, leaving the poor conductor to get on thr 48 R o L L IX Geneva. Sometimes the diligf^nce li.ij four horses, sometimes six or seven. best way he could. By tlie time the liorscs began to go on the gallop, the conductor would come climbing up the side of the coach into his place. "It was curious to see ho\v different the dif- ferent teams were in regard to the number of horses. Sometimes we had four horses, some- times five, and once we had seven. For a long time I could not tell what the reason was for such a difference. But at last I found out. It was because some of the stages were pretty nearly level, and others were almost all up hill. Of course, where there was a great deal of uy hill they required more horse.^?. At the time when they put on seven horses I knew that we had come to a place where it was almost all up hill ; and it was. The road went winding around through a region of hills and valleys, but a.^^cend- ing all the time. Still the road was so hard and smooth, and the horses were so full of life, that we went on the full trot the whole way. Four horses could not have done this, though, with such a heavy load. It took seven. '* In almost all the villages we came to we saw long lines of wagons by the road side. They were very curious wagons indeed. They were small. Each one was to be drawn by one horse. There was no body to them, but only two long poles going from the forward axletree to ^hv The Ride to G e x e v a . 49 The trains of wn,a;nns. Oue tcam-itoi- to six teams back axictrcc ; and the load was packed on these poles, and covered with canvas. It looked just like a big bundle tied up in a cloth. These were wagons tliat had stopped for the night. After- wards, wlien tlie morning carae, we overtook a great many trains of these wagons, on the road to Geneva. They were loaded with merchandise going from France into Switzerland. There was only one driver to the whole train. He went along with the front wagon, and all the rest fol- lowed on in a line. The horses were trained to follow in tins way. Thus one man could take charge of a train of six or eight wagons. ' There was one very curious thing in tho arrangement, and that was, that the last horse in tlie train had a bell on his neck, something like a cow bell. This was to prevent the driver from having to look round continually to see whether the rest of the horses were coming or not. As long as he could hear the bell on the last one's neck he knew they were all coming ; for none of the middle ones could stop without stopping all behind tnem. " I suppose that sometimes some of the horses in the train would stop ; then the driver would observe that the bell ceased to ring, and he would etop his own wagon, and go back to see what was the matter. If he found that any of them stopped 4 So R L L IN Geneva. The nne of the ]>eil ou thir hor»e. Iluilo's cxpedienl. to cat grass by the way, or because tliev -vYcre la;:y, lie would give them a whipping, and start them on, and that would teach tliem to kcc)) marching on tlic next time. " I know what I would do if I were the last horse. Whenever I Avantcd to stop and rest I would keep shaking my head all the time, and that would make the driver think that I was com- ing along. " One time, when we were stopping to change horses, I heard some one below me calling to me, " ' Rollo ! ' " 1 ))elieve I was asleep at that time, and dream- ing about something, though I don't remember what it was. I started up and reached out aa far as I could over the boot, and looked down. I found it was my mother calling to me. " ' Rollo,' says she, ' how do you get along?' "'Very nicely indeed, mother,' says 1; 'and how do you get along ? ' " ' Very well,' says she. *' Just then I happened to think of my oranges; BO 1 asked motlier if she was not thirsty, and sho said she was a little thirsty, but she did not see how she could get any drink until the morning, for the houses were all shut up, and tlic i)eoplo were in bed and asleep. So I told her that I hud an orange for her and for father. She said «he was very glad indeed. The Ride to Geneva. 51 I'ollo lowers an orange iuto the coup* for his mother. " I coullace of resort for the people of Geneva. There are walks throngh it and all around it, and seats under the trees, and a para- pet wall or railing encircling the margin of it, to prevent children IVom falling into the water. As the diligence rolled along the quay, and turned to go over the bridge, Rollo could look out in one diiection over the broad surface of *lie lake, which was seen extending for many miles, bordered by gently sloping shores coming down to the water. On the other side the cur- rent was seen rapidly converging and flowing swiftly under another bridge, and thence directly through the very heart of the town. The diligence went over the bridge. While it was going over, Hollo looked out first one way, towards the lake, and then the other way, down the )-i\('i-. Oil the lake side tlu^io was a ^tear T H E T W N . 61 Wli:it Hollo obsPivi- covci-ed with tall ui;d ancient-looking buildings. 'I'heso buildings in deed more than covei-ed the oi-iginni island ; they extended out over the water — the outer walls seeming to rest on ))iles, between and around which the water flowed with the utmost impetu* osity. The banks of the river on each side were walled up, and there were streets or })latform walks along the margin, between the liouscs and the water. There were a great many bridges, some wide and some narrow, leading across from one bank to the other, and from tach bank to tliQ island between. The diligence passed on so rapidly that Rollo had very little opportunity to see these things ; but he resolved that as soon as they got estab* lished in the hotel he would come out and take a walk, and explore all those bridges. 'Mt is just such a town as i like/' said he lo R L L IN G E N E V ^'hy Rollu liked Geneva. Disembarkinj: tVnni thi- ilili^'enro. himself. " A swift river ruiiniDg tlirougli tho niicldle of it — water as clear as a bell — plenty of foot bridges down very near to the water, aim ever so many little platforms and sidewalks along tlic margin, where you can stand and fish over the railings." In the mean time the diligence went thunder- ing on over the bridge, and then drove along tlie quay, on the farther side, past one office after another, until it came to its own. Here the horses were reined in, and the great machine came to a stand. Tlie doors of the lower com- partments were opened, and the passengers began to get out. Two ladders were placed against the side, one for the passengers on the bantiuette to get down Ijy, and the other to ena))le the blouses tliat stood waiting there to uncover and get down the baggage. Rollo did mit wait for his turn at the hukler, but climbed down the side of the coach by meang of any projecting iroL or steps tljat he couhl find to cling to. "Now, Kollo." said Mr. Holiday, ''the hotel in pretty near, and we arc going to walk there. 1 am going to leave you here to select out our bag- gage, when they get it down, and to bring it along by means of a porter." " Yes, sir," said Rollo ; '' I shouH like to do that, But what hotel i» it ? " The Town. (53 Tho travellers go to the hotel. '' The Hotel de FEcii," said Mr. Holiday. So Mr. and Mrs. Holiday walked along tut pier to the hotel, leaving Rollo to engage a por- ter and to follow in due time. The porter carried the baggage on his hack, by means of a frame, such as has been already de- scribed. Rollo followed him, and thus he arrived at last safely at the hotel. 64 R L L o IX Geneva. The Swiss hotels are plan tied for the use of pleasnre p.\rtlM. c h after v. The Hotel. OxE of the greatest sources of interest and pleasure for travellers who visit Switzerland anr] the Alps for the first time, esi)ecially if they are travellers from America, is the novelty of the arrangements ami usages of the hotels. One reason why every thing is so different in a Swiss hotel from what we witness in America is, that all tlic anangements are made to accommo- date parties travelling for pleasure. Every thing is planned, therefore, with a view of making tlie hotel as attractive and agreeahlo to the guests a3 possible. The Hotel de I'Ecu, where our party have now anived, is very pleasantly situated on the quay facin