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. 6-
 
 
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.
 
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'EW .MEXICO
4.
EXPLORATORY TRAVELS
THROUGH THE
WESTERN TERRITORIES
OF
NORTH AMERICA:
:
COMPRISING A
'. VOYAGE FROM ST. LOUIS, ON THE MISSISSIPPI,
TO THE
SOURCE OF THAT RIPER,
l M. A
JOURNEY THROUGH THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA,
AMI THE
NORTH-EASTERN PROVINCES OF NEW SPAIN.
Performed in the years 1805,1806,1807, by Order of the Government of the United States.
BY ZEBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE,
JMJOB GTH BBGT. CKlTBtl STATES
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN,
PATERNOSTER-ROW.
1811.
ADVERTISEMENT.
THE travels which are detailed in the tolk ^ing work, were per-
formed in the years 1805, 1806, and 1807 by Lieutenant (now
Major) Pike, and a military party, under the direction and at the
charge of the government of the United States. In the course of
the last year an authorized copy of the manuscript, together with
impressions of the original maps, was transmitted to this country,
and placed in the hands of the present Editor.
The interest naturally attached to travels over such an immense ex-
tent of territory, hitherto but partially explored, and a large propor-
tion of which had never before been visited by the footsteps of civi-
lized human beings, and the great importance to geographical science
of the discoveries made by our enterprising voyagers, left no doubt on
his mind as'to the propriety of giving them to the public. On inspect-
ing the manuscript for this purpos e, however, it was soon perceived,
that some alterations would be necessary, before it could properly, or
with justice to the work itself, be committed to the press: and that
the author may not have to answer for what is chargeable to the
Editor alone, he thinks it right to state explicitly the nature of the
b
VI * ADVERTISEMENT,
•
liberties which, upon his own responsibility, he has ventured ta
take.
Major Pike's usual practice was to note down every evening the
occurrences of the preceding day, and to subjoin to his journal such
observations on the country, the inhabitants, and other subjects,,
^s he deemed interesting or important, in connection with the objects
of his undertaking. After his return, these observations were sepa-
rated from his narrative, arranged together in a connected series,
and in this form delivered in to the government, as the official geo-
graphical and statistical reports of his expeditions; the journal itself
being allowed to retain little more than the bare recital of the diur-
nal progress and personal adventures of the party. In consequence
of this proceeding, the manuscript, as transmitted to this country,
exclusively of notes and several appendixes, was divided into six
parts, comprising the three journals which follow, and the observa-
tions pertaining to each in a separate portion.
As the statistical remarks relating to the first two journals were
not classed according to their subjects, but were given in the chro-
nological order, and in the desultory manner, in which they were
originally composed, the Editor judged it for the advantage of
the work to restore them, as nearly as he possibly could, in distinct
paragraphs, to the places they had first occupied in the journal, thus
rendering it unnecessary to lead Hue reader a second time over the
•
same ground.
In making these insertions the author's own words have been
carefully preserved, excepting in a few instances, where an expression
or two may hare been changed to avoid harshness in connecting
ADVERTISEMENT. vil
the sentences together. The account of the Indian nations on the
Upper Mississippi, which composed a part of the observations on the
first journey, has been ^retained in a separate form. The observa-
tions on New Spain, also, which followed the third portion of the
journal, being more methodically arranged, and mcluding notices
of countries not visited by our travellers, but described on the
authority of other information, have been preserved in their original
state. The notes and appendixes, with some variation of arrange-
ment, have been printed after the manuscript; but a few articles
have been omitted, as containing only repetitions of what had al-
ready appeared in the body of the work.
With respect to the language and the style of the Author, the
Editor felt he had a much more delicate task to perform, than in
the disposal of the materials. Conscious that much of the interest
of works of this class arises from the hero of the tale being the
historian of his own adventures, and the painter of his own feelings*
be has been scrupulous to let the narrative remain strictly that of
Major Pike himself. But be has not thought himself excluded, by
an adherence to this principle, from introducing a few alterations
that did not interfere with either the general character, the inci-
dents, or the spirit of the original. "Where he has seen cause, he
has, therefore, occasionally substituted a word to avoid the tautologi-
cal repetition of the same expression, transposed in some instances
the members of a sentence, where the original construction appeared
either unnecessarily harsh, or served to obscure the meaning of the
passage; and without reserve corrected all the grammatical
fel
ADVERTISEMENT.
errors that have struck his eye, whether attributable to the Author
himself, or to his ignorant and careless transcriber.
The Editor candidly avows that he has had one great difficulty to
encounter, in his endeavours to do justice to the charge he had
undertaken. This relates to the names of persons and places intro-
duced in the course of the work, which were in many instances so,
corrupted in the orthography of his manuscript, as not to admit ofi
being accurately decy phered. The errors of this class belong chiefly to-,
the French and Spanish names in Louisiana and .New Spain. Where
the orthography bore any analogy to the sound of the original
words, or where the latter were indicated by the sense of the con-
text, they have been restored; but a few, the Editor fears, will still
be found to have bidden defiance to all his, researches and conjec-
tures.*
Some cursory notes have been added by the Editor, which are?
distinguished by the letter E. He attaches little importance to them;,
but they may serve to direct the reader to what might not otherwise
so readily have attracted his notice. In the account of New Spain he
has subjoined the population of several places from Humboldt's recent
"Essai Politique," in order to furnish the reader with the means of
instant comparison. It is pleasing to observe, how nearly these
* It is mortifying to find that in America, where the Author was accessible, and might •
readily have elucidated any accidental obscurities in his manuscript, the work has been
printed in very nearly as incorrect a state as it appeared in the present Editor's copy. The
sheets of the American Edition reached him some time after his own had been in the
printer's hands, but its numerous errors, discreditable certainly to tire American press,,
left him little to regret that they had not arrived at an earlier period.
ADVERTISEMENT. IX
statements agree in the most material instances; and the circum-
stance affords no slight evidence of the general accuracy of Major
Pike's information.
The annexed Report contains official papers relating to these travels.
They are important as attesting the authenticity of the- work, and
explaining the objects for which the expeditions were undertaken.
They will besides interest the reader by the gratifying intelligence
they communicate, that the persons whose adventures have excited
his solicitude, whose tale of dangers and sufferings has awakened
his sympathy, and drawn from him the sigh and the tear of com-
miseration, have not passed unrewarded by their grateful and ap-
plauding country.
THOMAS REES.
Thavies Inn,.
January 28th, 1311.
The Editor trusts to the indulgence of his readers to correct the following mistakes, together with
ny other accidental literal errors, that may be found to have escaped his vigilance in the proofs.
Page 17, line 1, for following, read Pols Avoin.
19, line 9, note, for Route, read Unite. The same error occurs line 14 in the same page.
33, line 21, for up, read upon.
38, line 7, note, for Bout, read Butle.
43, line 2 from the bottom, for Kennipin, read Hennipin. •
169, line 18, for Cheveus lllanche, read Cheveu Blanc.
REPORT OF THE COMMITTEE,
APPOINTED
ON THE FIFTEENTH OF NOVEMBER, 1808,
TO INQUIBE
WHAT COMPENSATION OUGHT TO BE MADE
TO
CAPTAIN ZEBULON M. PIKE,.
AND HIS COMPANIONS.
DECEMBER 16th.
jL HE committee of tlie House of Representatives of the Congress of the United States,
to whom was referred the resolution to inquire, Whether any, and if any, what com-
pensation ought to be 'made to Captain Zebulon M. Pike and his companions, fot
their services in exploring the Mississippi river, in their late expedition to the sources
of the Osage, Arkansaw, and La Plate rivers, and in their tour through New Spain:
REPORT,
That it appears by the documents accompanying this Report, that the objects of each of
the exploring expeditions, together with the instructions for executing them, were
communicated tb and approved by the President of the United States; that the conduct
of Captain Pike in each of the expeditions also met with the approbation of the President,
and that the information obtained and communicated to the executive on the subjects
of his instructions, and particularly in relation to the source of the Mississippi, and
the natives in that quarter, and the country generally, as well on the Upper
Mississippi as that between the Arkansaw and the Missouri, and on the borders of
the latter extensive river to its source, and the country adjacent, is highly interesting
in a political, geographical, and historical view; and that although no special encourage-
ment was given to the individuals who performed these laborious and dangerous
expeditions, yet it was but reasonable for tliem, should they fortunately succeed in their.
objects, to expect some reward from government. That tbe zeal, perseverance, and;
xii REPORT OF
intelligence of Captain Pike as commander, have been meritorious, and the conduct
of the individuals generally, who composed the parties respectively, has been faithful,
and their exertions arduous. The Commktee therefore are of opinion, that compensation
ought-to be made by law to Captain Pike and his'companioBS.
DOCUMENTS.
WAR DEPARTMENT.
To the Hon. J. Montgomery,
Chairman, fitc.
December 1th, 1808.
SIR,
I HEREWITH inclose copies of the instructions to Lieutenant Pike, for the
government of his conduct on the two exploring expeditions alluded to in your letter;
and likewise lists of the names of the men composing those parties. You will perceive
that the instructions were given by general Wilkinson, the object however of each
party, together with the instructions, were communicated to, and approved by the
President of the United States. Although no special encouragement was given to the
individuals who performed th^se laborious and dangerous expeditions, yet it was
but reasonable for them, should they fortunately succeed in their objects, to expect
a liberal reward from the government; and as there can be no reasonable doubt of the
Eeal, perseverance, and intelligence of the commander, or of the faithful conduct and
arduous exertions of the individuals generally, composing the respective parties, it may,
I trust, be presumed, that no objection will be opposed to a reasonable compensation
foi euch meritorious services.
I am very respectfully, sir,
Your obedient servant,
H, DEARBORN.
(COPY)
ToZ.M. PIKE, 1st Regiment Infantry. .
Head Quarters, St. Louis, July 30th, 1805.
SIR,
HAVING completed your equipments, you are to proceed up the Mississippi with all
possible diligence, taking the following instructions for your general government, which
are to yield, to jour discretion in all cases of exigency. You will please to take the
THE COMMITTEE OF CONGRESS.
course of the river, and calculate distances by time, noting rivers, creeks, highlands,
prairies, islands, rapids, shoals, mines, quarries, timber, water, soil, Indian villages, and
settlements, in a diary to comprehend reflections on the winds and weather. It is-
interesting to government to be informed of the population and residence of the several
Indian nations, of the quantity and species of skins and furs they barter per annum, and
their relative price to goods'; of the tracts of country on which they generally make
their hunts, and the people with whom they trade. You will be pleased to examine
strictly, for an intermediate point between this place and the prairie des Chiens, suitable
for a military posi,and also on the Ouisconsin, near its mouth, for a similar establishment,
and will obtain the-consent of the Indians for their erection, informing them that they are
intended to increase their trade, and ameliorate their condition. You will please to
proceed to ascend the main branch -of the river until you reach the source of it, or the
season may forbid your further progress without endangering your return before the
waters are frozen up. You will endeavour to ascertain the latitude of the most
remarkable places in your route, with the extent of the navigation, and the direction
of the different rivers winch fall into the Mississippi; and you will not fail to procure
specimens of whatever you may find curious, in the mineral, vegetable, or anima1
kingdoms, to be rendered at this place. In your course you are to spare no pains to
conciliate the Indians, and to. attach them to the United States; and you may invite
the great chiefs of such distant nations as have not been at this place, to pay me
a visit. Your own good sense will regulate the consumption of your provisions, and
direct the distribution of the trifling presents which you may carry with you, particularly
your flags. I wish you a speedy, pleasant, and safe tour, and am, sir, with sentiments
of respect and esteem,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) JAMES WILKINSON.
P. S. In addition to the preceding orders, you will be pleased to obtain permission
from the Indians, who claim the ground, for the erection of military posts and trading
houses at the mouth of the river St. Pierre, the falls of St. Anthony, and.every other
critical point which may fall under your observation; these permissions to be granted in
formal conferences, regularly recorded, and the ground marked off.
(COPY)
*
To Lieutenant Z. M. Pike.
St. Loui$) June 24th, IBOCx
Smr
YOU are to proceed without delay to the cantonment on the Missouri, where
jou are to embark the late Osage captives, and the deputation recently returned
c
,iv REPORT 01*
!
from Washington, with their presents and baggage, and are to transport the whole up
the Missouri and Osage rivers to the town of the Grand Osage. i The safe delivery of
this charge at the point of destination, constitutes the primary object of your expedition,
and therefore you are to move with such caution as may prevent surprise from any hostile
band, and arc to repel with your utmost force any outrage which may be attempted. Having
safely deposited your passengers and their property, you are to turn your attention to the
accomplishment of a permanent peace between the Kanses and Osage nations, for which
purpose you must effect a meeting between the head chiefs of those nations, and are
to employ such arguments, deduced from their own obvious interests, as well as the
inclinations, desires, and commands of the President of the United States, as may
facilitate your purpose and accomplish the end. A third object of considerable
magnitude will then claim yonr attention: it is to- effect an, interview, and establish
a good understanding with the letans or Camanches. For this purpose you must
interest White Hair of the Grand Osage, with whom and a suitable deputation, you will
visit the Pawnee Republic, where you may find interpreters and inform yourself of the
most feasible plan by which to bring the Camanches to a conference. Should you
succeed in this attempt, and no pains must be spared to effect it, you will endeavour to
make peace between that distant powerful nation and the nations which inhabit the
country between us and them, particularly the Osage; and finally, you will endeavour
to induce eight or ten of their distinguished chiefs to make a visit to the seat of
government next September, and you may attach to this deputation four or five Pawnees,
and the same number of Kanses chiefs. As your interview with the Camanches will
probably lead you to the head branches of the Arkansaw and Red rivers, you may find
yourself approximated to the settlements of New Mexico, and therefore it will be
necessary you should move with great circumspection, to keep clear of any hunting or
reconnoitring parties from that province, and to prevent alarm or offence, because the
affairs of Spain and the United States appear to be on the point of amicable adjustment;
and, moreover, it is the desire of the President to cultivate the friendship and harmonious
intercourse of all the nations of the earth, and particularly our nearest neighbours, the
Spaniards.
In the course of your tour, you are to remark particularly upon the geographical
structure, the natural history,and population, of the country through which you may pass,
• taking particular cafe to collect and preserve specimens of every thing curious in the
mineral and botanical worlds, which can be preserved, and are portable. Let your
courses be regulated by your compass, and your distances by your watch, to be noted in
a field book; and I would advise you, when circumstances permit, to protract and
lay down in a separate book, the march of the day at every evening's halt.*
The instruments which I have furnished will enable you to ascertain the variation of
th« magnetic needle, and the latitude, with exactness; and at every remarkable point
THE COMMITTEE OF CONGRESS. xv
I wish you to employ your telescope in observing the eclipses of Jupiter's satellites,
having previously regulated and adjusted your watch by your quadrant, taking care to
note with great nicety the periods of immersion and emersion of the eclipsed satellite.
These observations may enable us after your return, by application to the appropriate
tables, which I cannot now furnish you, to ascertain the longitude. It is an object of
much interest with the executive to>scertain the directipn, extent, and navigation of the
Arkansaw and Red rivers; as far therefore as may be compatible with these instructions,
and practicable to the means you may command, I wish you to carry your views to those
subjects, and should circumstances conspire to favour the enterprise, you may detach a
party with a few Osages to descend the Arkansaw, under the orders of Lieutenant
Wilkinson or Sergeant Ballinger, properly instructed and equipped to take the courses
and distances, to remark on the soil, timber, &c. and to note the tributary streams. This
party will, after reaching our post on the Arkansaw, descend to Fort Adams, and there
wait further orders. And you yourself may descend the Red river, accompanied by a
party of the most respectable Camanches to the post of Natchitoches, and there receive
further orders. To disburse your necessary expences, and to aid your negotiations, you
arc herewith furnished six hundred dollars worth of goods, for the appropriation of which
your are to render a strict account, vouched by documents to be attested by one of your
party. Wishing you a safe and successful expedition,
I am, Sir, with much respect and esteem,
Your very obedient servant, .
(Signed) JAMES WILKINSON.
(COPY.)
To-Lieutenant Z. M. Pike.
Cantonment, Missouri, July 14, 1806.
SIB,
THE health of the Osages being now generally restored, and all hopes of the speedy
recovery of their prisoners from the hands of the Potowatomies being at an end, they
have become desirous to commence their journey for their villages; you are there-
fore to proceed to-morrow. In addition to the instructions given to you on the 24th
ultimo, I must require you to have the talks under cover, delivered to White Hair and
the Grand Peste, the chief of the Osage band which is settled on the waters of the
Arkansaw, together with the belts which accompany them; you will also receive here-
with a small belt for the Pawnees, and a large one for the letans or Camanches. Should
you find it necessary, you are to give orders to Maugraine, the resident interpreter at the
Grand Osage, to attend you. I beg you to take measures for the security and safe return
c 2
xvi REPORT OF
of your boats from the Grand Osage to this place. Doctor Robinson will accompany
you as a volunteer; he will be furnished with medicines, and for the accommodation
which you give him, he is bound to attend your sick.
Should you discover any unlicensed traders in your route, or any person from this
territory, or from the United States, without a proper license or passport, you are to
arrest such person or persons, and dispose of their property as the law directs.
My confidence in your caution and discretion has prevented my urging you to be
vigilant in guarding against the stratagems and treachery of the Indians ; holding your-
self above alarm or surprise, the composition of your party, though it be small, will
secure to you the respect of a host of untutored savages.
You are to communicate from the Grand Osage, and from every other practicable
point, directly to the secretary of war, transmitting your letters to this place, under cover
to the commanding officer, or by any more convenient route, i wish you health, and a
successful and honourable expedition, and am your's, with friendship,
(Signed) J. WILKINSON.
To Captain Zebtrfoa M. Pike.
War Department, February 24, 1808.
Sin,
IN answer to your letter of the 29d instant, I can with pleasure observe, that although
the two exploring expeditions you have performed were not previously ordered by the
President of the United States, there were frequent communications on the subject of
each, between General Wilkinson and this department, of which the President of the
United States was, from time to time, acquainted; and it will be no more than what
justice requires to say, that your conduct in each of those expeditions, met the approba-
tion of the President, and that the information you obtained and communicated to the
executive, in relation to the source of the Mississippi, and the natives in that quarter,
and the country generally, as well on the Upper Mississippi as that between the Arkan-
saw and the Missouri, and on the borders of the latter extensive river to its source, and
the country adjacent, has been considered highly interesting in a political, geographical,
and historical view. And you may rest assured, that your services are held in high esti-
mation by the President of the United States, and if any opinion of my own can afford
you any satisfaction, I very frankly declare that I consider the public much indebted to
you for the enterprising, persevering, and judicious manner in which you have per-
formed them.
I am, very respectfully, Sir,
Your obedient servant,
H. DEARBORN.
, THE COMMITTEE OF CONGRESS.
xvn
RETURN
-
'•!' .1 •
Of Persons employed on a Tour of Discovery and Exploration to the Source of the
Mississippi, in the years 1805 and 1806. ,
Lieutenant, Z. M. Pike.
Interpreter, Pierre Rosseau.
Sergeant, Henry Kennerman.
, (William E.Meek.
Corporals
PRIVATES.
Jeremiah Jackson
John Boley
I
John Brown
Jacob Carter
William Gordon
John Mountjoy
Hugh Menaugh
John Sparks
Freegift Stout
David Owings.
Thomas Dougherty
Solomon Huddleston
Theodore Miller
Alexander Roy
Patrick Smith
Peter Branden
David Whelply
This party left St. Louis the Qth of August, 1805, but had been detached for that
duty from the 1st of July. They returned the 30th of April, 1806; from which time
•nntil the 15th of July, I was preparing for the second expedition to the westward, which
consisted of the following persons, to wit:
Captain Z. M. Pike.
Lieutenant James B. Wilkinson.*
Doctor John H. Robinson.
f Joseph Ballenger*
Sergeants ^w.mamEMe€kt
Corporal Jeremiah Jackson, t
'XV1U
REPORT OF THE COMMITTEE, &c.
•:•
John Boley*
Henry Kennerman
Samuel Bradley*
Joriri Brown
Jacob Cartdrf 'i'1'
Thomas Doughertyf
William Gordon
Solomon Huddlestonl*
PRIVATES.
Theodore Millerf
Hugh Menaugh
John Mountjoyf
'i"
Alexander Roy
:John Sparkst
:; .Patrick Smithf
Freegift Stout
John Wilson *
Interpreter, Baroney Vasquez.*
* Those thus marked descended the Arkanskw river, and arrived at New Orleans
sometime about the of February, 1807.
f Those thus marked are still detained in New Spain.
: ,',,,,:r r,,.v, .; .••-•'.' •
The remainder arrived at Natchitoches on or about the 1st of July, 1807; but it may
probably be better to leave the whole time undefined, to be regulated by the honourable
secretary of war.
•••!:. 1. ii-''»
.,.-,; -, i:Z;MLPiKE, Major.
\ 'i •. • .
•• • •'''
i. .'/ ' . -mi.'. :;...n
:i
\
- - .'•;.•;.: .va/.'••<' j; •.'•. >'.'"• •;r.!, ;r
-CONTENTS.- - -'.:.-.'.•-...
..-. - ---.-----__./,;/
JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE FROM ST. LOUIS TO THE SOURCE OF THE
MISSISSIPPI ". L . L . i
INDIAN NATIONS BORDERING THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI - - - 122
THE SACS ------ -^ -_ -^ -_ -^ --------- 122
THE REYNARDS ------------------ 12S
THE JOWAS ------------------- ib.
WINEBAGOES OR PUANTS -------------- 124
MENOMENE OR FOLS AVOIN ------------- 125
SIOUX --------------------- ib.
MINOWA KANTONG ---------------- 126
WASHPETONGS ----------------- 127
SUSSITONGS ------------------ib.
YANCTONGS ------------------ib.
TETONS ----------------- '/•,"" il>«
"* '•
WASHPECONTE ----------------- ib.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE TRADE OF THE NORTH-WEST COM-
PANY ----- 188
JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION THROUGH THE INTERIOR OF
LOUISIANA 148
OSAGE INDIANS ------------------- 172
PAWNEE INDIANS ------------------- igi
KANSES INBIANS ------------------- 1Q6
IBTAN OK CAMANCHE INDIANS -------------- 214
JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH THE INTERIOR PROVINCES OF
NEW SPAIN - 259
XX CONTENTS.
GEOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE IN-
TERIOR PROVINCES OF NEW SPAIN ---------
6UADALAXARA - - - -•i--'----.- - - - - - - - - -
y
YALLADOLID ..--------------•--- 326
MEXICO ---------- ~----------- ib.
""OAXACA -, ..................... 327
VERA CRUZ -"-"-•----*------------- iB.'
*UEBLA -."'-"-"'--."--.-- .......... 328
GUANAXUATO -------------------- ib.
ZACATECAS -----------.--------- ib.
ST. LUIS POTOSI ----'---.------------ 329,
NXJEVO SAN AN DER ------------------ ib.
NEW LEON -'--..-.-.-..»«.-...--.- ib.
NBW MEXICO _-^ --------- ..-_---_ 331
BISCAY -.---.------------------ 348
SENORA -----.-.-'--------------. 357
8INALOA --------------------.- - 359
COOQUILLA --------------------- 36O
TEXAS ----.------_----------- 364
APPENDIX - - - -" • - » »" -" -" - >*.:-------- 391
 
EXPLORATORY TRAVELS,
fyc.
JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE FROM ST. LOUIS TO THE SOURCE OF THE
.'. MISSISSIPPI, PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1805 AND 1806.
ON the afternoon of Friday the pth of August, 1805,1 sailed, agree-
ably to my instructions, from my encampment near St. Louis, with
one sergeant, two corporals, and seventeen privates, in a keel boat
about seventy feet long, provisioned for four months, in order to
make a survey of the river Mississippi to its source. Encamped at
night on the eastern side of the river, at the head of an island.
We embarked again early on the following morning, and break-
fasted opposite to the mouth of the Missouri,near Wood Creek; about
5 o'clock P. M. a storm came on from the westward. Having gone
out with two men, to march behind a cluster of islands, one of my
soldiers swam a channel in the night, to inform me that the boat
had stopped during the storm. I remained on the beach all night.
We had this day proceeded by computation twenty-eight miles.
From St Louis to the mouth of the Missouri, the eastern shore
consists of a rich sandy soil, timbered with button wood, ash,'cotton
wood, hacberry, &c. The western is composed of high land, for a
short distance above the town, bordered by a small prairie or natural
meadow; after which bottom land occurs, with the same timber
2 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
as on the eastern side. The current is rapid, and the navigation, at
low water, obstructed by sand bars. Immediately on the peninsula,
formed by the confluence of the rivers Mississippi and Missouri, is a
small Kikapoo settlement, occupied in summer only. On the western
shore there is a rich prairie, with small skirts of wood, and the eastern
generally consists of hills from eighty to one hundred feet in height,
extending to the mouth of the Illinois. The current of the Missis-
sippi, above the entrance of the Missouri, is quite gentle, until you
arrive at the mouth of the Illinois, where, owing to the large sand
bars, and many islands, it is rendered extremely rapid.
On the 11th of August, the boat came up in the morning, and stopped
opposite to the Portage de Sioux. We here spread out our baggage
to dry, discharged our guns at a target, and scaled out our blunder-
busses; dined at the cave below the Illinois; at the mouth of which
river we remained some time. From the course of the Mississippi,
the Illinois might be mistaken at its junction with it for a part of the
principal stream. The Illinois river is about four hundred and fifty
yards wide at its mouth, and bears from the Mississippi N. 75° W.;
the current appears not to exceed two and a half miles an hour. The
navigation and the tributary streams of this river are too well known
to require a description. We encamped at night on the lower point
of an island, about six miles above the Illinois. We were much
detained in passing some islands, and obliged to get into the water,
and haul the boat through.
On the 12th of August, we made several miles to breakfast, and
about three o'clock P. M. passed Buffalo or Bosuf river, above which,
about five miles, commences a beautiful cedar cliff. Having passed
this, the river expands to nearly two miles in width, and contains
four islands, whose lowest points are nearly parallel; these we called
the Four Brothers. We encamped on the point of the easternmost.
It rained very hard all night; caught one catfish. We advanced this
day thirty miles.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. S
From the Illinois to the Buffalo river, the eastern shore exhibits
hills, but of easy ascent; on the west the land is a continued prairie,
but not always bordering on the river. Timber is found on both
sides, generally hacberry, cotton wood, and ash; the Buffalo river
enters on the west, and appears to be about one hundred yards wide
at its mouth. It bears from the Mississippi S. 30° W. From the
Illinois to this river, the navigation is by no means difficult, and the
current is mild.
On the 13th of August, it was late before we sailed. In our course
we passed a great number of islands, on one of which we left one of
our dogs. We were much impeded by sand bars, and obliged to
haul our boat over several of them. We observed, on our way,
several encampments which had been lately occupied: rained all day;
distance sailed, twenty-seven miles.
On the following morning, 14th of August, we had rain, but a fine
wind springing up, we put off at half past six o'clock: passed a
camp of Sacs, consisting of three men, with their families; they were
employed in spearing and scaffolding a fish, about three feet in
length, with a long flat snout: they pointed out the channel, and
prevented us from taking the wrong one. I gave them a small
quantity of whiskey and biscuit, and they, in return, presented me
with some fish. Sailed through a continuation of islands, for nearly
twenty miles: met a young gentleman (Mr. Robedoux) by whom I
sent a letter to St. Louis. At night encamped on an island; caught
a considerable number of small fish. The rain continued the whole
day. Distance sailed, twenty-eight miles.
On the 15th of August, it continued still to rain; from the uninter-
rupted series of wet weather, the men were quite galled and sore. I
met this day a Mr. Kittletas, of New York, who gave me a line to Mr.
Fisher, of the Prairie des Chiens. Passed a small river, to the west,
with a sand bar at its entrance: we also passed Salt river, which I
do not recollect to have seen laid down on any chart: it is a con-
B 2
4 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
siderable stream, and at high water is navigable for at least two
hundred miles. We left here another dog; distance sailed, twenty-
six miles.
From the Illinois to Salt river, or Oahahah, the eastern shore is
either immediately bordered by beautiful cedar-cliffs, or the ridges
may be seen at a distance. On the west there is a rich low soil,
through which two small rivers flow into the Mississippi. The first
I called Bar river, which is about twenty yards in width; the second
is about fifteen yards. Salt river bears from the Mississippi,
N. 75° W. and is about one hundred or one hundred and twenty
yards wide at its junction, and when I passed the current appeared to
be perfectly gentle. At high water it is navigable for boats at least
two hundred miles above its mouth. About one day's sail up the
river, there are salt springs, which have been worked for four years;
but I am not informed as to their qualities or produce.
In this distance the navigation of the Mississippi is very much
obstructed by bars and islands, indeed, to such a degree, as to render
it difficult in many places to fix the proper channel. The shores
generally consist of a sandy soil, timbered with sugar maple, ash,
pecan, locust, and black, walnut. The eastern side has generally the
preference as to situations for building.
We embarked early on the morning of the 16th of August, but were
so unfortunate as to get fast on a log, and did not extricate ourselves
until past eleven o'clock, having to saw off a part of it under the
water. At three o'clock P. M. arrived at the house of a Frenchman,
situate on the western side of the river, opposite to Hurricane Island.
His cattle appeared to be in fine order; but his corn in a bad state
of cultivation. He is married to a woman of the Sac nation, and
lives by a little cultivation and the Indian trade. About one mile
above his house, there is a very handsome hill, which he informed
me was level on the top, with a gradual descent on either side, and a
fountain of fine water. He likewise told me that two men had been
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 5
killed on the Big Bay or Three Brothers, and desired to be informed
what measures had been taken in consequence. Caught three cat
fish and one perch. Encamped four miles above the house, having
proceeded in all this day eighteen miles.
Embarked the following morning, and came on remarkably well;
at ten o'clock stopped for breakfast, and in order to arrange our sail,
when the wind serving we put off, and continued under easy sail
all day; passed three batteaux. In the evening we had, by com-
putation, proceeded thirty-nine miles.
On the 18th of August, about eleven o'clock, passed an Indian camp,
on the eastern side; they fired several guns, but we passed without
stopping. We had very hard head winds part of the day; caught
six fish; advanced twenty-three miles.
19th August.—Embarked early, and made fine way; but at nine
b'clock, in turning the point of a sand bar, our boat struck a sawyer:
at the moment we did not know it had injured her, but in a
short time after we discovered her to be sinking; however, by
thrusting oakum into the leak, and bailing, we got her to shore
on a bar, where, after entirely unloading, we with great difficulty
keeled her sufficiently to cut out the plank, and put in a new
one. This I conceived at the time to be a great misfortune; but we
afterwards discovered that the injury resulting from the accident
was greater than we were at first induced to believe; for, upon
inspection, we found our provision and cloathing considerably
damaged. The day was usefully and necessarily employed in
assorting, sunning, and airing those articles. One of my hunters
(Sparks) having gone on shore to hunt, swam the river about seven
miles above, and killed a deer; but finding we did not come on, he
returned and joined us by swimming. Whilst we were at work at
our boat on the sand beach, three canoes, with Indians, passed on.
the opposite shore. They cried "How do you do," wishing us to
give them an invitation to come over; but receiving no answer they
6 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
passed on. We then carried our baggage on board, and put off,
designing to go where our hunter had killed the deer, but after dark
we became entangled among the sand bars, and were obliged to
stop and encamp on the point of a beach. Caught two fish; distance
advanced, fourteen miles.
From the Salt river to the river Jauflione, which is five miles
above Hurricane settlement, and forms the boundary between the
Sac nation and the United States, on that side of the Missis-
sippi, the western shore is hilly, but the eastern consists of low
lands, timbered with hickory, oak, ash, maple, pecan, &c.; the
western exhibits also the same wood, with a greater proportion of
oak: the eastern is a rich sandy soil, and has many very eligible situa-
tions for cultivation. The Jauflione is about thirty yards wide at its
mouth, and bears from the Mississippi about S.W. In this part of
the river the navigation is good.
From hence to the Wyaconda river the navigation is easy, with
very few impediments, and the soil on both sides pretty good. This
river pays its tribute to the Mississippi, about twenty miles above
the Jauflione, by a mouth one hundred yards wide, and bears from the
former nearly due West. Just below its entrance is a small stream
of fifteen yards wide, which discharges itself into the Mississippi.
Between this and the river Des Moines, there is one small stream
emptying itself into the Mississippi, on the west, of about fifty-five
yards in width, and bearing S. by W. The first part of the distance
is obstructed by islands, and the river expands itself to a great width,
so as to render the navigation extremely difficult; but the latter part
affords more water, and consequently an easier passage. The
timber is principally oak and pecan. The soil is the same as that
on the river below. Seventy-five miles above the Frenchman's
settlement, and two hundred and thirty-two from the Missouri, the
Riviere des Moines comes in from the north-west. The width of the
Mississippi is here three-fourths of a mile.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 7
On Tuesday, the 20th of August, we arrived at the foot of the Rapids
des Moines, which are immediately above the confluence of the river
of that name, with the Mississippi. Although no soul on board had
passed them before, we commenced ascending without delay. Our
boat being large, and moderately loaded, we found great difficulty.
The rapids are eleven miles long, with successive ledges and shoals
extending from shore to shore across the bed of the river; the first
fall is the most difficult to ascend. The channel (which is a bad one)
is on the eastern side at the first two falls. It then passes under the
edge of the third, crosses to the west, and ascends on that side all the
way to the Sac Village. We had passed the first and most difficult
shoal, when we were met by Mr. Wm. Ewing, (who, I understand,
is an agent appointed by the United States to reside with the Sacs,
to teach them agriculture) with a French interpreter, four chiefs and
fifteen men of the Sac nation, in their canoes, bearing a flag of the
United States. They came down to assist me up the rapids, and
took out thirteen of my heaviest barrels, and put two of their men in
the barge as pilots. We arrived at the house of Mr. Ewing, opposite
the village, at dusk. This establishment is in latitude SO" 32' N.
The land on both sides of the rapids is hilly, but the soil rich;
distance sailed, sixteen miles.
The next morning after our arrival, all the chief men in the village
came over to my encampment, where I spoke to them to the following
purpose:
"That their great father (the President of the United States)
wishing to be more intimately acquainted with the situation,
wants, &c. of the different nations of the Red People on our newly
acquired territory of Louisiana, had ordered the General (Wilkinson,
the commander on that station) to send a number of his young
warriors in different directions, to take them by the hand, and make
such inquiries as might afford the satisfaction required; also, that T
S VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
was authorized to choose situations for their trading establishments,
and wished them to inform me, if that place would be considered by
them as central."
"That I was sorry to hear of the murder that had been com-
mitted on the river below; but, in consideration of their assurances
that it was done by none of their nation, and of the concern exhibited
by them on the occasion, I had written to the general and informed
him of what they had said on the subject."
"That in their treaty they had engaged to apprehend all traders
who came amongst them without licence; for that time, I would
not examine their traders on this point, but that on my return I
would make a particular examination. That, if they thought proper,
they might send a young man in my boat, to inform the other village*
of my mission."
I then presented them with some tobacco, knives, and whiskey.
They replied to the following purport:
"That they thanked me for the good opinion I had of their
nation, and for what I had written to the general. That themselves,
their young warriors, and the whole nation, were glad to see me
amongst them.
"That as for the situation of the trading houses, they could
not determine, being but a part of the nation. With respect to
sending a young man along with me, if I would wait until the
following day, they would choose and appoint one. And finally,
thanked me for my presents."
I wrote to my friends, and to the general; and not wishing to
loose any time, I then embarked, and made six miles above the
village. Encamped on a sand bar. One canoe of savages passed.
Embarked Thursday, 22d August, at five o'clock, A. M., with
head winds; passed a great number of islands. The river was here
very wide, and full of sand bars ; proceeded in all, twenty-three m/iles.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. • 9
Having sailed about five miles on the following morning, we came
on the western shore to a very handsome situation for a garrison. The
channel of the river passes under the hill, which is about sixty feet per-
pendicular height; die topis level for about four hundred yards. In
the rear, there is a small prairie of eight or ten acres, which would be a
convenient spot for gardens; and, on the eastern side of the river, there
is a beautiful prospect over a large prairie, as far as the eye can
extend, occasionally interrupted by groves of trees. Directly under
the rock is a limestone spring, which, after an hour's work, will afford
water amply sufficient for the consumption of a regiment of men.
The landing is bold and safe, and at the lower part of the hill a
road may easily be made for a team. Black and white oak timber
are found here in abundance. The hill continues about two miles; and
gives rise to five springs in that distance. We here met four Indians
and two Squaws; having landed with them, we gave them one
quart of made, or diluted whiskey, a few biscuits, and some salt. I
requested some venison of them, they pretended they could not
understand me; but after we had left them, they held up two hams,
and hallooed and laughed at us in derision. We remained nine hours
on the shore, and observed some traces of Indians. We afterwards
passed a handsome prairie on the eastern side, and encamped at its
head; three batteaux from Michillimackinac'stopped at our camp; we
were told they were the property of Mr. Myers Michaels: we were
here informed that the largest Sac village was about two and a half
miles out on the prairie; and that this spot was called half way to
the Prairie des chiens, from St. Louis.
Saturday, 24>th August.—'Passed in the morning a number of
islands; before dinner Corporal Bradtey -and myself took our guns,
and went on shore. We got behind a savannah, by following a
stream which we conceived to be a branch df the river, but which
led us at least two leagues from it. My two favourite dogs having
gone with us gave out in the prairie, owing to the heat, high grass,
c
10 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
and want of water; but thinking they would follow, we continued
our march. We heard the report of a gun, and supposing it to be
from our boat, answered it; but shortly after we passed an Indian
trail, which appeared as if the persons had been hurried, I presume
at the report of our guns, for with this people all strangers are
enemies. We soon struck the river, and the boat appeared in
view. We stayed some time for my dogs, when two of my men vo-
lunteered to go in search of them. Encamped on the western shore,
nearly opposite a chalk bank. My two men had not yet returned,
which I thought extraordinary, as they knew my boat never waited
for any person on shore: they endeavoured, it afterwards appeared,
to strike the Mississippi a head of us. We fired a blunderbuss at
three different times, to let them know where we lay. Advanced
this day, twenty-three and a half miles.
Sunday, August 25.—Stopped on the sand bank prairie on the
east, from which there is a beautiful prospect of at least forty miles
down the river, bearing SE. and E. We discovered that our boat leak-
ed very fast; but secured her inside so completely with oakum and
tallow, as nearly to prevent the leak. Fired a blunderbuss every
hour, as signals for our men. We this day passed the river Jowa,
and encamped at night on the prairie, marked Grant's Prairie.
The men had not yet arrived. Proceeded in all, twenty-eight
miles.
The Jowa river* bears from the Mississippi, SW. and is one hun-
dred and fifty yards wide at its mouth. The shore of the Mississippi
consists here of high prairie, with yellow clay banks, and in some
places red sand; the western shore is prairie also, but bounded by
* In ascending Jowa river thirty-six miles, you come to a fork, the right branch of
which is called Red Cedar river, from the great quantity of that wood found on its banks.
It is navigable for batteaux, nearly 300 miles. It then branches out into three forks,
called the Turkey's Foot: these shortly after lose themselves in Rice Jake.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. u
skirts of wood. About ten miles up the Jowa river, on its right bank,
is a village of the Jowas.
Monday, 26th August.—Rained, with a very hard head wind:
towed our boat about nine miles, to where the river Hills joins the
Mississippi: here I expected to find the two men I had lost, but
was disappointed. The mercury in Reaumeur was at 13°, whereas,
yesterday, it was 26°. Met two perroques full of Indians, who com-
menced hallooing, "How do you do," &c.: they then put to shore,
and beckoned us to do so likewise, but we continued our course.
This day was very severe on the men: distance sailed, twenty-eight
miles.
Tuesday, 27th August.—Embarked early, with a cold north Mrind;
mercury 10°, the wind so hard a-head, that we were obliged to tow
the boat all day. Met one perroque of Indians, and late in the day,
passed the Rock river. Some Indians, who were encamped there,
embarked in their canoes, and ascended the river before us. The wind
was so very strong, that although down the stream, they were near
sinking. Encamped about four miles above Rock river, on the
western shore. This day passed a pole on a prairie, on which five dogs
were hanging: distance advanced, twenty-two miles.
From the Jowa to Rock river, we generally had beautiful prairies
on the west, and in some places very rich land, with black walnut
and hickory timber.
Rock river* is a large stream, emptying itself into the Mississippi
on the east, and is about three hundred yards wide at its mouth.
It bears from the Mississippi almost due east. About three miles up
this river, on the south bank, is situated the third town of the Sac
* Rock river takes its source near Green Bay, on Lake Michigan, upwards of 450
miles from its mouth, and is navigable for more than 300 miles.
02
12 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
nation, which, I was informed, was burnt in the year 1781 or 1782,
by about three hundred Americans, although the Indians had assem-
bled seven hundred warriors to give them battle.
Wednesday, August 28.—About an hour after we had embarked,,
we arrived at the camp of Mr. James Aird, a Scotch gentleman, of
Michillimackinac. He had encamped with some goods on the
beach, and was repairing his boat, which had been injured in crossing
the rapids of Rock river, at the foo.t of which we now were. He
had sent three boats back for the goods he had left behind. We
breakfasted with him, and obtained considerable information.
AVe afterwards commenced ascending the rapids; in the first we
carried away our rudder, but after getting it repaired, the wind
rising, we hoisted sail, and although entire strangers passed
through them with a perfect gale blowing all the time: had we
struck a rock, in all probability we must have bilged and sunk. On
our way we met with Mr. Aird's boats (which had pilots) fast on the
rocks. These shoals are a continued chain of rocks, extending about
eighteen miles in length, and reaching in some places from shore to
shore. They afford more water than those of La Riviere des Moines,
but are much more rapid and difficult to pass.
Thursday, 29th August.—Breakfasted at the Reynard or Fox village,
which is above the rapids: this is the first village of the Reynards. It
consists of about eighteen lodges. I expected to have met my two
men here, but was again disappointed. Finding they had not passed,
I lay by until four o'clock, P. M.; the wind fair all the time. The
chief informed me, by signs, that in four days they could march to
Prairie des chiens; and promised to furnish them with mockinsons,
and put them on their route; upon this we set sail, and made at
least four knots an hour. I was disposed to sail all night, but the
wind lulling, we encamped on the point of an island on the western
shore, having advanced twenty miles.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
Friday, August 30th.—Embarked at five o'clock, with the wind fair,
but not very high; sailed all day. Passed four perroques of Indians;
distance made, forty-three miles.
Saturday, 31st August.—Embarked early. Passed one perroque of
Indians; also two encampments: one on a beautiful eminence on
the western side of the river. This place had the appearance of an
old town. Sailed almost all day, and made thirty-one miles.
Sunday, 1st Sept.—Embarked early, with the wind fair; arrived
at the lead mines at twelve o'clock. A dysentery, with which I had
been afflicted several days* was suddenly checked this morning,-
which I believe to have been the occasion of a very violent attack of
fever ^bout eleven o'clock. Notwithstanding it vra.s very severe, I
dressed myself, with an intention to execute the orders of the General
relative to this place. We were saluted with a field piece, and re-
ceived with every mark of attention by Monsieur Dubuque, the pro-
prietor. There were no horses at the house, and as it was six miles to
the mines,it was impossible to make a report from actual inspection.
I proposed, in consequence,, ten queries, on the answers to which my
report was formed*. Dined with Mr. D. who informed me that the
Sioux and Sauteurs were as warmly engaged in opposition as ever;
that not long since the former had killed fifteen of the latter, who, in
return, kiHed ten Sioux, at the entrance of the St. Peter's; and that a
war party, composed of the Sacs, Reynards, Puants, to the number
of two hundred warriors, had embarked on an expedition against
the SauteurSi but that they had heard, that the chief having had an
unfavourable dream, persuaded the party to return, and that I should
meet them on my voyage. At this place I was introduced to a chief,,
called the Raven of the Reynards. He made a very flowery speech
* The substance of the answers was, that the mines were supposed to extend about
twenty-seven leagues in length, and from one to three leagues in breadth. The ore
gelded about 75 per cent, and fr«» SO £o 4P,OOQlbs, .were afmuajty fonnedinto pigs.
14 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
on the occasion, which I answered in a few words, accompanied by
a small present. I had now given up all hopes of my two men, and
was about to embark, when a perroque arrived, in which they were
with a Mr. Blondeau, and two Indians, whom that gentleman had
engaged above the rapids of Rock river. The soldiers had been six
days without any thing to eat, except muscles, when they met with
Mr. James Aird, by whose humanity and attention their strength
and spirits had in a measure been restored; and they had been enabled
to reach the Reynard village, where they met with Mr. B. The Indian
chief furnished them with corn and shoes, and showed his friendship
by every possible attention. I immediately discharged the hire of
the Indians, and gave Mr. Blondeau a passage to the prairie
des chiens. Left the lead mines at four o'clock: distance made this
day, twenty-five miles.
From the first Reynard village to the lead mines, the Mississippi
evidently becomes narrower, but the navigation is thereby rendered
much less difficult. The shores consist, in general, of prairie, which,
if not immediately bordering on the river, can be seen through the
thin skirts of forest that in some places line the banks: the
timber is generally maple, birch, and oak, and the soil very excellent.
To this place we have seen only a few turkies and deer, the latter of
which are pretty numerous from the river des Moines.
Monday, 2d September.—After making two short reaches, we com-
menced one which is thirty miles in length; the wind serving we
just made it, and encamped on the eastern side, opposite to the mouth
of Turkey river. » •
From the lead mines to Turkey river, the Mississippi continues
about the same width, and the banks, soil, and productions, are
entirely similar. The Turkey* river empties in on the west, bearing
* Between the Jowa and Turkey rivers, you find on the west the Wabisapenkun river.
It runs parallel to the Red Cedar river, and has scarcely any wood on its banks. The
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 15
from the Mississippi about SW. and is about one hundred yards wide
at its mouth: half a league up this river, on the right bank, is the third
village of the Reynards, at which place they raise sufficient corn to
supply all the permanent and transient inhabitants of the Prairie des
chiens.
In the course of this day we landed to shoot pigeons; the moment
a gun was fired, some Indians who were on the shore above us ran
down, and put off in their perroques with great precipitation. Upon
which Mr. Blondeau informed me, that all the women and children
were frightened at the very name of an American boat; and that the
men held us in great respect, conceiving us to be very quarrelsome,
.much disposed for war, and at the same time very brave. This
information I used as prudence suggested. We stopped at an en-
campment about three miles below the town, where they gave us
some excellent plumbs. They despatched a perroque to the village,
to give notice, as I supposed, of our arrival. It commenced raining
about dusk,.and rained all night. Distance advanced, forty miles.
Tuesday, September 3d.—Embarked at a pretty early hour; the
weather cloudy. We met two perroques of family Indians; they at
first asked Mr. Blondeau, "if we were for war, or going to war ?" I
now experienced the good effect of having some person on board who
could speak their language; for they presented me with three pair of
ducks, and a quantity of venison sufficient for all our crew for one day:
in return, I made them some trifling presents. We afterwards met two
perroques carrying some of the warriors. They kept at a good distance
until spoken to by Mr.B. when they informed him that their party had
proceeded up as high as lake Pepin, without effecting any thing. It
is surprising what a dread the Indians in this quarter have of the
next water we met with was the Great Macottite, and*a little higher the little river of the
• same name. These two streams appear to approach each other, and present nothing
remarkable, excepting some lead mines which are said to exist on their banks.
16 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
Americans: I have often seen them go round islands to avoid
meeting my boat. It appears to me evident, that the traders have
taken great pains to impress the minds of the savages with the idea
of our being a very vindictive, ferocious, and warlike people. This
impression was made perhaps with no good intention; but whett they
find that our conduct towards them is guided by magnanimity and
justice, instead of operating to our prejudice, it will have the effect of
causing them to respect, at the same time that they fear Us.-*-
Distance advanced this day, twenty-five miles.
Wednesday, September 4—Breakfasted just below the Ouisconsin;
arrived at the Prairie des chiens about eleven o'clock. Took quartets
at Captain Fisher's, and were politely received by him and Mr.Frazef.
Tkunday, 5th September.—Embarked about half past ten o'clock
in a Schenactady boat, to go to the mouth of the Ouisconsin, in
order to take the latitude, and look at the adjacent, hills for a situa-
tion for a fort; was accompanied by Judge Fisher, Mr. Fraaer,
and Mr. Woods. We-ascended the hill on the western side of the
Mississippi, and made choice of a spot which I thought most eligible,
being level on the top, with a spring in the rear, and commanding
a View of the country around. A shower of rain came on, which
completely wetted us, and we returned to the village without having
ascended the Ouisteonsin as we had intended. I marked four trees
with A.B.C.D. and squared the sides of one in the centre. Wrote to
General Wilkinson*.
Friday, 6th September.—I held a small 'Council with the Puants,
and ft chief of the lower band of the Sioux. I afterwards visited
and laid out a position for a post, on a hill called the Petit Qris, on
the Oaisconsify three rAiles above its mouth. Mr. Fisher, who ac-
companied me, was taken very ill, in consequence x>f drinking some
water out of this river. The I\iaats never have any white
* The letters to General Wilkinson, noticed here and elsewhere, are omitted, as con-
Uioing only the official report of what is given in the journal.—E.
OP THE MISSISSIPPI. 17
interpreters, nor have the following nation. In my council I spoke
to a Frenchman, he to a Sioux, who interpreted to some of the
Puants.
My men beat all the villagers here in jumping and hopping.
The Ouisconsin enters the Mississippi in latitude 43° 44'8" and is
nearly half a mile wide at its mouth. It bears from the Mississippi
nearly NE.* This river is the grand source of communication
* The voyage from the Michillimtickioac to the Prairie des Chiens, by the Ouis-
consiu and Fox rivers, is as follows, viz.
"The distance between Michillirnackinac and the settlements at the bottom of Green
Bay, is calculated to be eighty leagues. On leaving Mackinac, there is a traverse of
five miles to Point St. Ignace, which is the entrance into Lake Michigan, four leagues
from Mackinar, is an island of considerable extent, named St. Helens, and may be seen
from that place in a clear day. The shore from Mackinac to the Point au Chene, which
is a league distant from the island, is rocky, and from this to the island Epouvette,
•which is a very small one, and stands near the banks of the lake, is high and covered
with pine, the soil very barren. From this island to the river Meao Cockein, the
distance is five leagues; two small islands occur on the way, and a river where boats or
canoes may take shelter in u storm. The river Meno Cockein is large and deep, and
takes its rise near Lake Superior. From this to Shouchoir, the distance is ten leagues;
the shore is dangerous from the number of shoals that extend a great way into the lake.
This rock, called Shouchoir, fonns an excellent harbour for canoes. The entiancef
however, when the wind blows from the lake, is difficult, but when once in, canoes and
boats may lie during any storms without unlading. A custom prevails here among the
voyagers, for every one to have his name catved on the rock the first time he passes, and
pay something to the canoe-men. From this to the river Manistique the distance is five
leagues ,• this is a large river. The entrance is difficult, from r. sand bank at its mouth,
and the surf is very high when the wind blows from the lake ; at certain seasons sturgeons
are found here in great numbers. The banks of this river are high and sandy, covered
with pine. It takes its rise from a large lake, and nearly communicates with Lake
Superior. From this to the Detour, the distance is ten leagues; the shore rocky, flat,
and dangerous. Here begins the traverse at the mouth of Green bay. The first island
is distant from the main land about a league, and is called the He de Detour, and is at
least three leagues- in circumference. There are generally a few Sauteaux lodges of
Indians on this island during the summer months. From this to lie Bailee, the distance
is three leagues. There-are two small islands between these and lie Veste, whence the
D
18 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
between the Lakes and the Mississippi, and is the route by which
all the traders of Michillimackinac convey their goods, for the trade
distance is two leagues to He des Poux, so called from Poutowatomies, having once had
a village here, which is now abandoned. In the months of May and June, there in here
a-fishery of trout; they are taken in great quantities by trolling: there are also white
fish in vast numbers. The ship channel is between this island and He Veste; from
thence to Petit Detroit, the distance is three leagues; some lodges of Otoways and
Sauteaux have raised here small quantities of corn, but their subsistence during the
summer months chiefly depends upon the quantities of sturgeon and other fish with
which the lake abounds. From Petit Detroit to the main land the distance is three
leagues, and is called the Port des Morts, from a number of canoes having been wrecked
at this place, where every one perished; the shore is bold and rocky. Hence the
distance is four leagues to the He Racro, which is a safe harbour, inaccessible, to all
winds. From hence to Sturgeon bay the distance is eight, leagues: the shore is bold
and rocky, and several large islands lie a few miles distant. A few Sauteaux families raise
corn here, and reside during the summer season; trout and sturgeon are found in great
numbers. Sturgeon bay is two miles across, and about four leagues in length, and com-
municates by a portage with Lake Michigan, near Michillimackinac; distant from the
bay about two leagues, in the He Vennillion. There were here a few years ago, a
number of Fols Avoin inhabitants, who were accustomed to raise corn ; but why they have
left this place I cannot learn. There are thirteen leagues from hence to the entrance ot'
the Fox river. On leaving He Vermillion, the woods and general appearance of the
country begin to change, and have a very different aspect; from the northern parts of
this lake, a small river called Riviere Rouge, falls into the lake about halfway between
lie Veniiillion and La Baye. On approaching La Baye, the water of the latter assumes
a whiter apprarance, and becomes less deep. A channel which winds a good deal, may
be found for vesels of fifty and sixty tons burden, and loaded vessels of these dimensions
have gone up the river Fox to the French settlement, opposite which is the Fols Avoin
village, which consists of ten or twelve bark lodges. A great number of Sauteaux and
some Otowas come here in the spring and fall. Three leagues from La Baye is a small
village of the same nation, and another three leagues higher at the portage of Kakalirt.
This portage is a mile long, the ground even and rocky; there is a fall of about ten feet,
which obstructs the navigation for three leagues higher, and almost continual rapids
succeed as far as the fall of Grand Konomee, which is about five feet high; above this
the river opens into a small lake, at the end of which is a strong rapid, called Puant's
Rapid, which issues from a lake of that name. This lake is ten leagues in length, and
from two to three wide; at its entrance stands the first Puaat village, consisting of ten or
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 19
of the Mississippi, from St. Louis to the river de Corbeau, and the
confluent streams which are in those boundaries.
twelve lodges. At the upper end of the lake stands another Puant village of about the
same number of lodges, and at the end of this is a small river, which, with the intervals
of a few portages, communicates with Rock river. About the midway between the two
Puant villages, there is a Fols Avoin village, on the south side of the lake, containing
fifty or sixty men. Five leagues from the entrance of the lake on the north side, the
Fox river falls in, and is about two hundred yards wide: ascending two leagues higher
there stands a small Fols Avoin village, where there is a lake of more than two leagues
in length; and about a league above this lake the river de Loup joins the Fox river near
a hill called the Route des JVlorts, where the Fox nation were nearly exterminated by the
French, and confederated Indians. The river and lakes are at certain seasons full of wild
rice. The country on the borders of this is finely diversified'with woods and prairies.
Any quantity of hay may be made, and it is as fiue a couutry for raising stock as any in
the same latitude through all America.
"From the Route des Morts to the Lac Puckaway, the distance is twenty-eight leagues;
there is here another Puant village of seven or eight large lodges. This lake is three
leagues in length: four leagues above it, Lac du Brcuf begins, which is also four leagues
long, and full of wild rice, and a great many fowls in their season. From Lac du Bceuf the
next stage is to the Forks, five leagues from the Portage of the Ouisconsin; ten leagues
above the Forks, there is a very small lake called the Lac Vaseux, which i.s so choaked
with wild rice as to be almost impassable. The river although very winding,
becomes here more and more serpentine ou approaching the Portage, and narrows
so much, as almost to prevent the use of oars. The length of the Portage to the
Ouisconsin is two miles, and when the waters are high, canoes and boats loaded pass
over.
"Here the waters at such times separate, the one part going to the gulf of Metcico,
and the other to that of St. Lawrence. In wet seasons the Portage road is very bad, the
soil being of a swampy nature; there is for nearly half the way, a kind of natural canal,
which is sometimes used; and I think a canal between the two rivers might be easily cut.
The expence at present attending the transports, is one third of a dollar for one hundred
weight; for a canoe, five dollars; and a boat eight dollars; but this is not in each, but
in goods, at the rate of two hundred per cent, advance on the sterling price.
There are at present two white men who have establishments there, but they are much
incommoded by the Puants of Rock river, who are troublesome visitors. The Ouiscon-
sin is a large river, its bottom sandy, full of islands, and sand-bars, during the sum-
Bier season. The navigation is difficult even for canoes, owing to the lowness of thr
D2
20 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
The village of the Prairie des Chiens,* is situated about one league
above the mouth of the Ouisconsin, on the eastern bank; there is a
small pond, or marsh, which extends in the direction of the river:
the town is in the front of the marsh; it consists of eighteen dwelling
bouses, arranged in two streets; sixteen in Front street, and two in
First street. In the rear of the pond, are eight dwellmg houses,
some of them are framed; and instead of weather-boarding, there
are small logs let in mortises, made in the uprights, joined close,
daubed on the outside with clay, and handsomely white-washed
within. The interior furniture of their houses is decent, and indeed,
in those of the most wealthy, display a degree of elegance and
taste.
There are eight houses scattered in the country, at the distance
of one, two, three, and five miles; there are also, on the western side
of the Mississippi, three houses situated on a small stream, called
Giard river, making in the village and vicinity thirty-seven houses;
which it will not be too much to calculate at ten persons each,
making the population three-hundred and seventy souls; but this
water; from the Portage to its confluence with the Mississippi, is sixty leagues.
.! atques and Reynards fojmerly lived on its banks, but were driven oft" by the Sauteaux.
They were accustomed to raise a good deal of corn and beans, the soil being excellent.
Opposite to the Detour du Pin, half way from the Portage on the south side, are lead
mines, said to be the best in any part of the country, and may be wrought with great
ease. Boats of more than four tons are improper for the communication between the
Mississippi and Michillimackinac."
"DICKSON."
* The present village of the Prairie des Chiens was first settled i'i the year 1783;
and the settlers were Mr. Giard, Mr. Antaya, and Mr. Dubuque. The old village
is about a mile below the present, and had existed during the time the Drench v.'ca
in possession of the country. It derives its name from a family of the ReyvOards, 'who
Formerly lived there, distinguished by the appellation of dogs. The present village was
settled under the English government, and the ground was purchased from the Reynard
Indians.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. ei
calculation will not answer for the spring or autumn, as there are at
those seasons at least five or six hundred white persons resident
here: this is owing to the concourse of traders, and their engagers
from Miehillimackinac, ajwj other parts, who make this then: last
stage previous to their launching into the savage wilderness: they
again meet here in the spring on their return from their wintering
grounds, accoaipanied by three-hundred or four-hundred Indians;
when the}r hold a fair, the one to dispose of the remainder of their
goods, and the others their reserved peltries. It is astonishing that
there are not more murders and affrays at this place; such a heteroge-
neous mass assembling here to trade, and the use of spirituous liquors
being'in no manner restricted; but since the American government
has become known, such accidents take place much less frequent
than they used to do before.
The prairie, on which the village is situated, is bounded in the rear
by high bald hills, and extends about eight miles from the Mississippi,
to where it strikes the Ouisconsin, at tl>e Petit Gris, which bears
from the village, SE. by E. If the marsh were drained, (which
might be easily done,) I am of opinion, the situation of the prairie
would be rendered healthy; the inhabitants are now subject to in-
termittent fevers in the spring and autumn.
There are a few gentlemen who reside at the Prairie des Cbiens, and
many other persons who claim that appellation; but the rivalship of
the Indian trade occasioned them to commit acts at their wintering
quarters which tl>ey would blush to be thought guilty of in the
civilized world. They possess however the spirit of generosity and
hospitality in an eminent degree, but this is the leading feature in
the character of the frontier inhabitants; their mode of living bad
obliged them to have temporary connection with the Indian women;
and what was at first policy, is now so confirmed by .habit and in-
clination, that it has become (with a few exceptions.) the ruling
practice of all the traders; and in fact almost one half the inhabi-
22 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
tants under twenty years of age, have the blood of the Aborigines,
in their veins.
Sunday, 8th. September.—Having the day before begun to load
my two new boats, which I had procured as better adapted for the
prosecution of the voyage, J embarked at half past eleven o'clock,
the wind fair and fresh. I found myself very much embarrassed and
cramped in my new boats, with the provisions and baggage. I
embarked two interpreters, one to perform the whole voyage, whose
name was Pierre Rosseau; and the other, named Joseph Reinville,
paid by Mr. Frazer, to accompany me as high as the falls of St.
Anthony. Mr. Frazer is a clerk to Mr. Bladder of Montreal:
he was born in Vermont, but has latterly resided in Canada. To the
attention of this gentleman I am much indebted, he procured me
every thing in his power that I stood in need of.
Mr. Frazer despatched his bark canoes, and remained himself to
go on with me—his design was to winter with some of the Sioux
bands. We sailed well, proceeded eighteen miles, and encamped
on the western bank.
I must not omit here to bear my testimony to the politeness of all
the principal inhabitants of the village.
Monday, 9th September.—Dined at Cape Gartie, or at Gartie river;
after which we proceeded to an island, on the eastern side, about
five miles below the river Jowa, where we encamped-—The Jowa
river is about one hundred miles wide at its mouth, and bears from
the Mississippi, about NW. Distance advanced twenty-eight miles.
Tuesday, 10th September. The rain still continuing, we remained
at our camp—having shot at some pigeons, the report was heard
at the Sioux lodges ;* when Le Feuille, a chief of this nation, sent
down six of his young men to inform me, "that he had waited three
days with meat, &c. but that last night he had begun to drink, and
* The same I had spoken to, on the 6th. on the Prairie des Chiens.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 23
that on the next day, he would receive me with his people sober."
I returned for answer, " that the season was far advanced, that time
was passing, and if the rain ceased I must proceed." Mr. Frazer
and the interpreter went home with the Indians. We embarked
about one o'clock; Mr. Frazer returning, informed me that the chief
acquiesced in my reasons for pressing forward; but that he had
prepared a pipe (instead of a letter,) to present me, ta shew to all
the other bands of the Sioux above; with a message to inform them,
that I was a chief of their new father's, and that he wished us
to be treated with friendship and respect. On our arrival opposite
to the lodges, the men were paraded on the bank with their guns
in their hands. They saluted (with ball,) with what might be
termed three rounds; which I returned with three rounds from each
boat, with my blunderbusses. This salute, although nothing to sol-
diers accustomed to fire, would not be so agreeable to many people;
as the Indians had all been drinking, and some of them even tried
their dexterity to see how near the boat they could strike; they
may indeed be said to have struck on every side of us. When I
landed, I had my pistols in my belt and sword in hand: I was met
on the bank by the chief and invited to his lodge; as soon as my
guards were formed and centinels posted, I accompanied him.
Some of my men who were to attend me I caused to leave their
•arms behind, as a mark of confidence. At the chief's lodge, I
found a clean mat and pillow provided for me to sit upon; and
the before-mentioned pipe, on a pair of small crutches, was placed
before me. The chief sat on my right hand, my interpreter and
Mr. Frazer on my left. After smoking, the chief spoke to the fol-
lowing purport.
"That notwithstanding he had seen me at the prairie, he was
happy to take me by the hand amongst his own people, and thereto
shew his young men the respect due to their ' new father:' that
when at St. Louis in the spring his father had told him, that if he
*4 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
looked down the river he would see one of his young warriors coming
up; he now found it true, and he was happy to see me, who knew
the great spirit was the father of all, both the white and the red
people, and if one died the other could not live long. That he had
never been at war with their new father, and hoped always to pre-
serve the same good understanding that now existed. That he now
presented me with a pipe to shew to the upper bands, as a token
of coir good understanding; and that they might see his work, and
imitate his conduct. That he had gone to St. Louis on a shameful
visit, to carry a murderer; but that we had given the fellow his life,
and he thanked us for it. That he had provided something to eat,
but he supposed I could not eat it myself, and if not, desired I
might give it to my young men." I replied, "that although I
had told him at the prairie my business up the Mississippi, -I
would again relate it to him: I mentioned the different objects
I had in view with regard to the savages who had fallen under
our protection, by our late purchase from the Spaniards;—the
different posts to be established; the objects of these posts as
they related to them; supplying them with necessaries, having
officers and agents of government near them to attend to their busi-
ness; and, above all, to endeavour to make peace between the Sioux
and Sauteurs. That it was possible On my return I should bring
some of the Sauteurs down with me, and take some of the Sioux
chiefs to St. Louis, there to settle the long and bloody contest
which had existed between the two nations. That I accepted his pipe
with pleasure as the gift of a * great man, and a brother. That it
should be used as he desired."
I then ate of the dinner he had provided. It was very grateful.
It consisted of wild rye and venison, of which I sent four bowls to
my men. I afterwards went to a dance, the performance of which
* He is the chief of four bonds.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 25
was attended with many curious manoeuvres. Men and women danced
indiscriminately. They were all dressed in the gayest manner; each
had in their hand a small skin of some description: they frequently
ran up, pointed their skin, and gave a puff with their breath;
when the person blown at, whether man or woman, Would fa"ll, and
appear to be almost lifeless, or in great agony; but would recover
slowly, rise, and join in the dance. This they called their great
medicine, or, as I understood the word, the dance of religion: the
Indians believing that they actually puffed something into each
others bodies, which occasioned the falling, &c. Every person
is not admitted to take a part: they who wish to jom them must
first make valuable presents to the society, to the amount of forty
or fifty dollars, and give A feast, they are then admitted with great
ceremony. Mr. Frazer informed me, that he was once in the lodge
with some young men who did not belong to the club, when one of
their dancers coming in, they immediately threw their blankets over
him, and forced him out of the lodge. Mr. F. laughed at them,
and the young Indians called him a fool, and said, "lie did riot
know what the dancer might blow into his body."
Having returned to my boat, I sent for the chief, and presented him
with two carrots of tobacco, four knives, half a pound of vermillien,
and one quart of Salt. Mr. Frazer asked leave to present them with
some rum; we made them up a keg between us,' of eight gallons*.
Frazer informed the chief, that he durst not give them any without
my permission. The chief thanked me for all my presents, and
said, "they must come free as he did not ask for them." I replied,
** that to those who did not ask for any thing, I gave freely; but
to those who asked much, I gave only little or -none."
We embarked about half past three, proceeded three miles, and
* Two gallons, whkkey.
26 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
encamped on the western side. Mr. Frazer we left behind, but he
came up with his two perroques about dusk. By this time it com-
menced raining very hard. In the night a perroque arrived from the
lodges. During our stay at their camp, there were soldiers appointed
to keep the crowd from my boats, who executed their duty with
vigilance and vigour, driving men, women, and children back,
whenever they approached. At my departure, their soldiers said,
"as I had shaken hands with their chief, they must shake hands
with my soldiers." In which request I willingly indulged them.
Wednesday, 11th September.—Embarked at seven o'clock, although
raining. Mr. Frazer's canoes also came on until nine o'clock.
Stopped for breakfast, and made a fire. Mr. Frazer staid with me,
and finding his perroques not quite able to keep up he despatched
them. We resumed our voyage; proceeded until near six o'clock,
and encamped on the western side: we saw nothing of his perroques
after they left us. I computed that we advanced sixteen miles this
day, rain and cold winds the whole time a-head. The river has
never been clear of islands since I left Prairie des Chiens. I believe
it to be here two miles wide; hill, or rather prairie knobs, on both
sides.
Thursday, 12th September.—It raining very hard in the morning
we did not embark until ten o'clock, Mr. Frazer's perroques then
coming up. It was still raining, and very cold. We passed the
Root river, which, at ils junction with the Mississippi, is twenty
yards wide, bearing from it nearly west, and is navigable for canoes
about sixty miles. Opposite to Root river we passed a prairie
called La Crosse, from a game of ball played frequently on it by
the Sioux Indians. This prairie is very handsome; it has a sinall
square hill, similar to some mentioned by Carver. It is bounded in
the rear by hills like the Prairie des Chiens. On this prairie Mr.
Frazer shewed me some holes dug by the Sioux, when in expecta-
tion of an attack; into which they first put their women and chil-
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 27
dren, and then crawl in themselves; they were generally round, about
ten feet in diameter, but some were half moons, and formed quite a
breast work. This, I understand, was the chief's work, which was
the principal redoubt* Their mode of constructing them is as fol-
lows: the moment they apprehend, or discover, an enemy on a
prairie, they commence digging with their knives, tomahawks, and
a wooden ladle, and in an incredibly short space of time sink a
hole sufficiently capacious to secure themselves and their families from
the balls or arrows of the enemy. They have no idea of taking these
subterranean redoubts by storm, as they would probably lose a
great number of men in the attack; and although they might be
successful in the event, it would be considered as a very imprudent
action.
Mr. Frazer, fmding his canoes not able to keep up, staid at this
prairie to organize one of them, intending then to overtake us. Ad-
vanced three miles farther.
Friday, 13th September.—Embarked at six o'clock: came to a
sand bar, and stopped to dry my things. At this place Mr. Frazer
overtook me. We remained here three hours: we afterwards pro-
ceeded together, and passed the mouth of Black river, entering the
Mississippi from the east. It is of considerable size, and Indian
traders have ventured one hundred and twenty miles up its course.
We had rain all day, except about two hours at noon. Distance
advanced twenty-one miles.
Saturday, 14th September.—We embarked early; the fog was so
thick we could not distinguish objects twenty yards distant. When we
breakfasted we saw nothing of Mr. Frazer's canoes; but after break-
fast, at the head of an island, we met Frazer's boat. The wind coming
on fair we hoisted sail, and found that we were more on an equality
with our sails than our oars. The birch canoes sailed very well,
but we were able to out-row them. We now met the remainder of
the war party (before-mentioned) of the Sacs and Reynards, return-
E2
28 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
ing from their expedition against the Sauteurs. I directed ray in-
terpreter to ask how many scalps they had taken; they replied
none: he added, they were all Squaws, for which I reprimanded
him. We now passed the mountain which stands in the river, called
by the French " the mountain which soaks in the river." We pro-
ceeded on to the Prairie TAile, on the west. Mr. Frazer, Bradley,
Sparks, and myself, went out to hunt; we crossed first a dry flat
prairie; when we arrived at the hills we ascended them, and had
a most sublime and beautiful prospect. On the right we saw the
mountains, which we had passed in the morning, and the prairie
in the rear; and, like distant clouds, the mountains at the Prairie
de la Crosse. On our left, and under our feet, the valley between
the two barren hills, through which the Mississippi winds in nu-
merous channels, forming many beautiful islands, as far as the
eye could embrace the scene. Our four boats under full sail, their
flags streaming before the wind, formed altogether a prospect so va-
riegated and romantic, as one may scarcely expect to «njoy more
than twice or thrice in the course of his life. I proposed keeping
the hills until they led to the river, encamping, and waiting the
next day for our boats; but Mr. Frazer's anxiety to get to the boats
induced me to yield, and after crossing a very thick bottom, ford-
ing, and swimming three branches of the river, and traversing several
morasses, we, at twelve o'clock, arrived opposite our boats, which
were moored on the eastern side; we were conveyed over to them. We
saw frequent signs of elk, but had not the good fortune to come
across any of them: my men saw three on the shore. Distance ad-
vanced twenty-one miles.
Sunday, 15th September.—Embarked early; passed the river Em-
barrass and Clear river, which enter on the west; the former of
which is navigable one hundred and thirty-five miles; encamped
opposite to Buffaloe river, on the western shore. This stream, at the
head of which the Chippeways reside, is navigable for perroqwes
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 20
forty-five or fifty leagues. On the eastern shore, the river de la Prairie
de la Crosse empties itself into the Mississippi, at the head of that
prairie. It is about twenty yards wide, and bears N.N.W.
Mr. Frazer broke one of his canoes, in consequence of which he
did not come on as far as our encampment by three miles. Distance
advanced twenty-five miles.
Monday, 16'th September.—Embarked late, as I wished Mr. Frazer
to overtake me, but came on very well. His canoes overtook us at
dinner, at the grand encampment below lake Pepin. We made the
saudy peninsula, on the east, by dusk, when we passed the Sau-
teaux or Chippeway river, at the entrance of the lake. This river is
at least half a mile wide, and appears a deep and majestic stream;
it bears from the Mississippi nearly due north. Some distance up
it is scarcely to be distinguished from the Ouiscoosin; it has a com-
munication with the Montreal river by a short passage, and by this
river with lake Superior. The agents of the new West India Com-
pany supply the Fols Avoins and Sauteaux, who reside at the head
of this river, and those of the Michillimackinac, and also the Sioux
who hunt on its lower waters.
In the division of the Mississippi, which we had passed from La
Prairie des Chiens, the shores are more than three-quarters prairie on
both sides, or more properly speaking bald hills, which, instead of
running parallel with the river, form a continual succession of high
perpendicular cliffs and low vallies; they appear to head the river,
and to traverse the country in an angular direction. These hills and
vallies exhibit some of the most romantic and sublime views I ever
saw; but this irregular scenery is sometimes interrupted by a wide
extended plain, which brings to mind the verdant lawn of civilized
regions,and would almost induce the traveller to imagine himself in the
centre of a highly cultivated plantation. The timber of this division
is generally birch, elm, and cotton wood, all the cliffs being bor-
dered by cedars.
30 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
The navigation, as far as the Jowa river, is good, but from
thence to the Sauteaux river is very much obstructed by islands. In
some places the Mississippi is uncommonly wide, and divided into
many small channels, which, from the cliffs, appear like so many
distinct rivers, winding in a parallel course through the same im-
mense valley. But there are few sand bars in those narrow chan-
nels; the soil being rich, the water cuts through it with facility.
"The mountain which soaks in the river" stands in the Missis-
sippi, near the eastern shore, about fifty miles below the Sauteaux
river, and is about two miles in circumference, with an elevation of
two hundred feet covered with timber. There is a small river that
empties into the Mississippi in the rear of the mountain, which, I con-
ceive, once bounded it on the lower side, while the Mississippi formed
its upper boundary, the mountain being then joined to the main
by a neck of prairie low grounds, which in time was worn away by
the spring freshes of the Mississippi, and thus forming an island of
this celebrated spot.
Lake Pepin (so called from the French,) appears to be only an
expansion of the Mississippi. It commences at the entrance of the
Sauteaux river, and bears N. 55. W. twelve miles, to Point de Sable,
which is a neck of land projecting about one mile into the lake from
the western shore, and is the narrowest part of the lake; from hence
to the upper end of the course it stretches nearly due west, about ten
miles, making its whole length twenty-two miles, and from, four to
one and a half miles in width, the broadest part being in the bay
below Point de Sable. This is a beautiful place; the contrast of the
Mississippi full of islands, and the lake with not one in its whole
extent, gives more force to the grandeur of the scene. The French,
under the government of M. Frontenac, drove the Reynards (or
Ottiquamies) from the Ouisconsin, and pursuing them up the Mis-
sissippi, built as a barrier, a stockade on lake Pepin on the
western shore, below Point de Sable, and as was generally the
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 31
case with that nation, blended the military and mercantile profes-
sions, by making their fort a factory for the Sioux. The lake at
the upper end is three fathoms deep, but I am informed this is its
shallowest part. From the Jowa river to the head of Lake Pepin,
the elk is the prevailing species of wild game, with some deer and
a few bear. By observation, I found the head of Lake Pepin to be
in latitude 44° 58' 8".
After supper, the wind being fair, we put off, with the intention to
sail across the lake; my interpreter (Rosseau) telling me that he
had passed it twenty times, but never once by day, giving as a rea-
son, that the wind frequently rose and detained them in the day time
on the water. But I believe the traders' only reason, generally, is their
fer of the Sauteurs, as thev have made several strokes of war at the
•'
mouth of this river, never distinguishing between the Sioux and their
traders. However, the wind serving, I was induced to proceed; my
boat bringing up the rear, for I had put the sail of my big boat on
my batteau, and a mast of twenty-two feet. Mr. Frazer embarked
in my boat. At first the breeze was very gentle, and we sailed with
our violins and other instruments playing; but the sky afterwards
became cloudy, and the wind blew quite a gale. My boat ploughed
the swells, sometimes almost bows under. When we came to the
traverse, which is opposite to Point de Sable, we thought it most
adviseable, the lake being very much disturbed and the gale increas-
ing, to take harbour in a bay on the east. One of the canoes and
my boat came in very well, and together, but having made a fire on
the point, to give notice to the boats in the rear, they Doth ran on
the bar before they doubled it, and were near foundering; by
jumping into the lake however AVC brought them to a safe harbour.
Distance advanced forty miles.
Tuesday, 17th September.—Although there was every appearance
of a very severe storm, we embarked at half past six o'clock, the
wind fair; but before Ave had all hoisted sail, those in front had
32 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
struck theirs. The wind came on hard a-head; the sky became
inflamed, and the lightning seemed to roll down the sides of the hills
which bordered the shore. The storm in all its grandeur, majesty,
and horror, burst upon us in the traverse, while making for Point
tie Sable, and it required no moderate exertion to weather the point,
and get to the windward side. Here we found Mr. Cameron,
who had sailed from the prairie on the fifth; he had three barks
and one wooden canoe with him. He had been lying here two
days, his canoes unloaded and turned up for the habitation of his
men, his tents pitched, and living in all the ease of an Indian
trader. He appeared to be a man of tolerable information, but
rather indolent in his habits; a Scotchman by birth, but an English-
man by prejudice. He had with him a young man of the name of
John Rudsdell, and also his own son, a lad of fifteen.
The storm continuing, we remained here all day. I was shewn a
point of rocks from which a Sioux woman cast herself, and was dashed
into a thousand pieces on the rocks below: she had been informed,
that her friends intended marrying her to a man she despised; and
having refused her the man she had chosen, she ascended the hill
singing her death song, and before they could overtake her, and
frustrate her purpose, took the. lover's leap and ended her trou-
bles with her life—a wonderful display of sentiment in a savage!
Distance advanced three miles.
Wednesday, 18th September.—Embarked after breakfast. Mr.
Cameron with his boats came on with me; crossed the lake, sounded
it, and took an observation at the upper end. I embarked in one of
Mr. C's. canoes, and we came up to Canoe river, where there was a
small band of Sioux, under the command of Red Wing, the second
war chief in the nation. He made me a speech, and presented a
pipe, pouch, and buftaloe skin. He appeared to be a man of sense,
and promised to accompany me to Saint Peter's. He saluted me,
and had his salute returned. I made him a small present. We
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 35
encamped on the end of the island, and although not more than
eleven o'clock, were obliged to stay all night. Distance advanced
eighteen miles.
Thursday, 19th September.—Embarked early, and dined at the
St. Croix river. ISJessrs. Frazer and Cameron having some business
to transact with the savages, we left them at the encampment; but
they promised to overtake me, though they should be obliged to travel
till twelve o'clock at night. Fired a blunderbuss for them at Tattoo.
The chain of my watch became unhooked, by lending her to my
guard: this was a very serious misfortune.
Friday, 20th September.—Embarked after sun rise; cloudy with
hard wind; a small shower of rain: cleared tip in the afternoon,
and became pleasant. Encamped on a prairie on the eastern side,
on which is a large painted stone, about eight miles below the Sioux
village. The traders had not yet overtaken me. Distance ad-
vanced twenty-six miles.
Saturday, 21st September.—Embarked at a seasonable hour, break-
fasted at the Sioux village, on the eastern side. It consists of eleven
lodges, and is situated at the head of an island, just belotr a ledge
of rocks. The village was deserted at this time, all the Indians
having gone out up the lands to gather Fols Avoin. About two miles
above, saw three bears swimming over the river, but at too great a
distance for us to kill one of them; they made the shore before I
could come up with them. Passed a camp of Sioux, of four lodges,
in which I saw only one man, whose name was Black Soldier. The
garrulity of the women astonished me, for at the other camps they
never opened their lips; but here they flocked around us with all
their tongues going at the same time. The cause of this freedom
must have been the absence of their lords and masters. We passed
the encampment of Mr. Fenebault, who had broken his perroque,
and had encamped on the western side of the rive*, about three miles
below St. Peter's. We made our encampment on the north east
p
34 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
point of the Big island, opposite to St. Peter's. The Mississippi
became so very narrow this day, that I once crossed it in my batteau
with forty strokes of my oars.
The water of the Mississippi, since we passed Lake Pepin, has
been remarkably red, and where it is deep appears as black as ink.
The waters of the St. Croix and St. Peter's appear blue and clear for
a considerabledistance below their confluence.
From the head of lake Pepin, for about twelve miles to the
Cannon river, the Mississippi branches into many channels, and is
speckled with numerous islands. There is a hill on the western shore,
about six miles above the lake, called the Grange; from the summit
of which, you have one of the most delightful prospects in nature.
When turning to the east, you have the river winding in three chan-
nels at your feet; on the right, the extensive bosom of the lake,
bounded by its chain of hills; in front, over the Mississippi, a wide
extended prairie; on the left, the valley of the Mississippi, open to
view quite to the St. Croix; and partly in your rear, the valley
through which passes the Cannon river. When I viewed it, on one
of the islands below appeared the spotted lodges of the Red-wing's
band of the Sioux, the white tents of the traders and my soldiers,
and three flags of the United States, waving on the water; which
gave a contrast to the still and lifeless wilderness around, and in-
creased the pleasure of the prospect.
From the Canoe river to the St. Croix, the Mississippi evidently
becomes narrower, and the navigation less obstructed by islands;
the St. Croix river joins the Mississippi on the east, and bears
from it almost due north. It is only eighty yards wide at its
mouth, and five-hundred yards up, commences lake St. Croix, which
is from one and a half to three miles wide, and thirty-six miles in
length; this river communicates with lake Superior, by the Burnt
river, by a portage of half a mile only, and in its whole extent
has not one fall or rapid worthy of notice; this, with the mildness
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 35
of its current, and its other advantages, renders it by far the most
preferable communication that can be had with the north-west, from
this part of our territories. Its upper waters are inhabited by the
Fols Avoin and Sauteaux, who are supplied by the agents of the
north-west company, and its lower division by the Sioux, and their
traders.
From the Cannon river, the Mississippi is bounded on the east
by high ridges, but the left shore consists of low ground; the tim-
ber is generally ash and maple, except the cedar of the cliffs, Sugar-
tree, and ash. About twenty miles below the entrance of the river
St. Peter's, on the eastern shore, at a place called the Grand Marais,
is situated the Petit Corbeau villiage, of eleven log-houses.
I observed a white flag on shore to day, and on landing, disco-
vered it to be white silk; it was suspended over a scaffold, on
which were laid four dead bodies, two enclosed in boards and two
in bark. They were wrapped up in blankets which appeared quite
new; I was informed they were the bodies of two Sioux women,
(who had lived with two Frenchmen,) one of their children and
some other relative; two of whom had died at St. Peter's and two at
St. Croix, but were brought here to be deposited upon this scaffold
together; this is the manner of a Sioux burial, when persons die a
natural death; but when they are killed, they suffer them to lie
unburied. This circumstance brought to my recollection the bones
of a man I found on the hills below the St. Croix—the jaw-bone I
brought on board,—he must have been killed on that spot.—Distance
advanced, twenty-four miles.
Sunday, 22nd September.—Employed in the morning in measuring
the river—about three o'clock Mr. Frazer arrived with his perroques,
and in three hours after, the Petit Corbeau, at the head of his band,
arrived with one-hundred and fifty warriors; they ascended the hill, in
the point between the Mississippi and St. Peter's, and gave me a salute
F 2
36 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
d-la-mode Sauvage with balls ; after which, we settled the affairs for the
council to be held next day. Mr. Frazer and myself took a bark
canoe and went up to the village, in order to see Mr. Cameron.
We ascended the St. Peter's to the village and found his camp, (no
current in the river,) he engaged to be at the council, and promised to
let me have his barge. The Sioux had marched on a war excursion,
but hearing (by express) of my arrival, had returned by land.
We were treated very hospitably, and hallooed after to go into every
lodge to eat. We returned to our station about eleven o'clock, and
found the Sioux and my men peaceably encamped.
Monday, 2Sd September.—Prepared for the council, which we
commenced about twelve o'clock. I had a bower, or shed, made
of my sails on the beach, into which only my gentlemen (the
traders) and the chiefs entered. I then addressed them in a speech,
which, though long and touching on many points, had for its prin-
cipal object, theobtainingofagrantof land at this place (the falls of St.
Anthony,) and at St. Croix, and the making peace between them and
the Chippeways. I was replied to by Fils de Penichon, Le Petit Cor-
beau, and I/ Original Leve. They gave me the land required, about
one hundred thousand acres, (equal to two hundred thousand dollars
in value,) and promised me a safe passport for myself and the chiefs I
might bring down; but spoke doubtfully with respect to the peace. I
gave them presents to the amount of about two hundred dollars,
and as soon as the council was over, I allowed the traders to pre-
sent them with some liquor, which, with what I gave, was equal
to sixty gallons. In half an hour they were all embarked for their
respective villages. The chiefs in the council were, Le Petit Cor-
beau, he signed the grant; Le Fils de Penichon, he also signed;
Le Grand Partisan, L* Original Leve, La Dimi Douzaine, Le
Bucasse, and Le Boeuf qui Marche. It was somewhat difficult to
get them to sign the grant, as they conceived their word of honour
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 37
should be taken without any mark; but I convinced them it was not
on their account, but my own, I wished for their signatures.*
* The following is the substance of my conversation on this occasion:
"BROTHERS.—I am happy to meet you here at this council fire, which your father
has sent me to kindle, and to take you by the hand as our children. We having but lately
acquired from the Spaniards the extensive territory of Louisiana, our general has thought
proper to send put a number of his young warriors to visit all his red children; to tell
them his will, and to hear what request they may have to make of their father. I am
happy the choice has fallen on me to come this road, as 1 find my brothers the Sioux,
ready to listen to my words.
"It is the wish of our government to establish military posts on the upper Missis-
sippi, at such places as might be thought expedient; I have therefore examined the
country, and have pitched on the mouth of the river St. Croix, this place, and the falls
of St. Anthony; I therefore wish you to grant to the United States, nine miles square at
St. Croix, and this place from a league below the confluence of the St. Peter's and Mis-
sissippi, to a league above St. Anthony, extending three leagues on each side of the
river; and as we are a people accustomed to have all our acts written down, in order to
have them handed to our children, 1 have drawn up a form of an agreement, which we
will both sign in the presence of the traders now present. After we know the terms we
will fill it up, and have it read and interpreted to you.
"These posts are intended as a benefit to you; the old chiefs now present must see
that their situation improves by a communication with the whites. It is the intention
of the United States to establish at these posts factories, in which the Indians may
procure all their things at a cheaper and better rate than they do now; or, that your
traders can afford to sell them at to you, as they are single individuals who come far in small
boats. But your fathers are many and powerful, and will come with a strong arm in larger
vessels. There will also be chiefs here, who can attend to the wants of their brothers,
without their sending or going'all the way to St. Louis; and who will see the traders that
go up your rivers, and know that they are good men.
"Another object your father has at heart is, to endeavour to make peace between
you and the Chippeways. You have now been a long time at war, and when will you
stop? if neither side will lay down the hatchet, your paths will always be red with
blood; but if you will consent to make peace, and suffer your father to bury the hatchet
between yon, I will endeavour to bring down some of the Chippcway chiefs with me to
St. Louis, where the good work can be completed under the auspices of our mutual
father. I am much pleased to see, that the young warriors have halted here to hear my
words this day: and as I know it is hard for a warrior to be struck and not strike again.
38 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
Tuesday, 24th September.—In the morning I discovered, that my
flag was missing from my boat. Being in doubt whether it had
I will, by the first Chippcway I meet, send words to their chief, that if they have not
felt your tomahawk, it is not because you have no legs or the hearts of men, but because
you have listened to the voice of your father.
"If the chiefs do not listen to the voice of their father, and continue to commit
murders on you and our traders, they will call down the vengeance of the Americans;
for they are not like a blind man walking into the fire. They were once at war with, us,
and together with their allies, all the northern Indians, were defeated at Roche de Bout,
and obliged to sue for peace; that peace we granted them. They know we arc not chil-
dren, but like all wise people, are slow to shed blood.
"Brothers—Your old men know that not many years since, we.recieved Detroit,
Michillimackinac, and all the posts on the lakes, from the English, and now, but the
ether day, Louisiana from the Spaniards; so that we put one foot on the sea at the east,
and the other on the sea at the west; and if once children, are now men. Yet, 1 think
the traders who come from Canada arc bad birds amongst the Chippeways, and instigate
them to make war on their red brethren, the Sioux, in order to prevent our traders going
up the Mississippi. This I shall enquire into; and if I find the case to be so, warn those
persons of their ill conduct.
"Brothers.—Mr. Cheteau was sent by your father to the Osage nation, with one or
his young chiefs, he sailed some days before me, and had not time to procure the medals
which I am told he promised to send up, but they will be procured.
"I wish you to have some of your head chiefs to be ready to go down with me in
the spring. From the head of St. Peter's also, such other chiefs as you may think pro-
per, to the number of four or five. When I pass here on my way I will send you word
at what time you will meet me at the Prairie des Cheins.
"I expect you will give orders to all your young warriors to respect my flag, and
the protection which I may extend to the Chippeway chiefs, who may come down with
me in the spring: for were a dog to run to my lodge for safety, his enemy must walk over
me to hurt them.
"Brothers.—Here is a flag which I wish to send to the Gens de Feuille,~to shew
them they are not forgotten by their father. I wish the comrade of their chief to take it
on himself to deliver it with my words.
"Brothers.—I am told, that hitherto the traders have made a practice of selling rum
to you. All of you in your right senses must know that it is injurious, and occasions
quarrels and murders amongst yourselves. For this reason your father has thought
proper to prohibit the traders from selling you any more. Therefore I hope my brothers
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 39
\
been stolen by the Indians, or had fallen overboard and floated
away, I sent for my friend the Original Leve", and sufficiently
evinced to him by the vehemence of my action, by the immediate
chastisement of my guard, (having on one of them inflicted severe
corporal punishment,) and by sending down the shore three miles
in search of it, how much I was displeased that such a thing
should have occurred. I sent a flag and two carrots of tobacco by
Mr. Cameron, to the Sioux at the head of the St. Peter's. Made a
small draft" of the position at this place: sent up the boat I got
from Mr. Fisher, to the village on the St. Peter's, and exchanged
her for a barge with Mr. Duncan; my men returned with the barge
about sun-down, she was a fine light vessel, eight men were able to
carry her—employed all day in writing.
Wednesday, 25th September.—I was awakened by Le Petit Corbeau,
(head chief,) who came up from his village to see if we were killed,
or if any accident had happened tons; this was in consequence of
his having found my flag floating three miles below their village, (fif-
teen miles hence,) from which they concluded some affray had taken
place, and that it had been thrown overboard. Although I con-
ceived this an unfortunate accident for me, I was exceedingly happy
at its effect; for it provedthe means of preventing much blood-shed
among the savages. A chief called the Outarde Blanche had his
lip cut off', and had come to the Petit Corbeau, and told him, "that
his face Avas his looking-glass, that it was spoiled, and that he was
the chiefs, when they know a trader to sell an Indian rum, will prevent that Indian from
paying his credit. This will break up the pernicious practice, and oblige your father.
But I hope you will not encourage your young men to treat our traders ill from this cir-
cumstance, or from a hope of the indulgence formerly experienced, but make your com-
plaints to persons in this country, who will be authorized to do you justice.
"I now present you with some of your father's tobacco, and some other trifling
things, as a memorandum of my good will, and before my departure I will give you some
Ikjuor to clear your throats."
40 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
determined on revenge." The parties were charging their guns and
preparing for action, when lo! the flag appeared like a messenger
of peace, sent to prevent their bloody purposes; they were all
astonished to see it, the staff being broken: when the Petit Corbeau,
arose and spoke to this effect, " That a thing so sacred had not
been taken from my boat without violence, that it was proper for
them to hush all private animosities, until they had revenged the
cause of their elder brother; that he would immediately go up the
St. Peter's, to learn what dogs had done it, in order to take steps
to get satisfaction of those who had committed the outrage." They
all listened to this reasoning, and he immediately had the flag put
out to dry, and embarked himself for my camp.
I was much concerned to hear of the blood likely to have been
shed, and gave him five yards of blue stroud, three yards of calico,
one handkerchief, one carrot of tobacco, and a knife, in order to
make peace among his people. He promised to send my flag by
land to the falls, and make peace with the Outarde Blanche. Mr.
Frazer went up to the village, and we embarked late and encamped
at the foot of the rapids
Thursday, 26th September.—Embarked at the usual hour, and
after much labour in passing through the rapids, arrived at the foot
of the falls about three or four o'clock; here we unloaded our boat
and had the principal part of the cargo carried over the portage:
with the other boat however, full loaded, they were not able to get
over the last shoot, and encamped about six hundred yards below—
I pitched my tent and encamped above the shoot. The rapids
mentioned here, might properly be called a continuation of the
falls of St. Anthony, for they are equally entitled to this appellation
with the falls of the Delaware and Susquehannah. Killed one
deer—distance advanced, nine miles.
Friday, 2?th September.—Brought over the residue of my loading
this morning. Two men arrived from Mr. Frazer on Sfc. Peter's for
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 41
my despatches. This business of closing and sealing, appeared like a
last adieu to the civilized world: I sent by this opportunity, a large
packet to the general, and a letter to Mrs. Pike, with a short note
to Mr. Frazer. Two young Indians brought my flag across by land,
and arrived yesterday just as we came in sight of the falls; I made
them a present for their punctuality and expedition, and the dangers
to which their journey exposed them. We next carried our boats
out of the river as far as the bottom of the hillj
Saturday, 28th September.—Having conveyed my barge over the
poflfcage, we put her into the river above the falls. While we were
thus occupied three quarters of a mile from the camp, seven Indians
painted black appeared on the height—we had left our guns at camp,
and were entirely defenceless. It occurred to me that they were
the small party of Sioux, who were obstinately bent on going to
war, when the other part of the bands came in; these they proved
to be: they were better armed than any I had ever seen; having
guns, bows and arrows, clubs, spears, and some of them even a
case of pistols. I was at that time giving my men a dram; having
presented the cup of liquor to the first Indian he drank it off, but
I was more cautious with the others. I sent my interpreter to the
camp with them to wait my arrival, wishing to purchase one of their
war clubs, it being made of elk-horn and decorated with inlaid
work. This and a set of bows and arrows, I wished to obtain as
curiosities; but the liquor I had given the Indian beginning to ope-
rate, he came back for me, but refusing to go till I had brought up my
boat, he returned, and (being I suppose offended) borrowed a
canoe and crossed the river. In the afternoon we got the other boat
near the top of the hill, when the props giving way she slid down
to the bottom, but fortunately without injuring any person—it rain-
ing very hard we left her—killed one goose and a rackoon.
Sunday, 29th September.—We got our large boat over the portage,
and put her in the river, at the upper landing; this night the men
o
VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
gave sufficient proof of their fatigue, by all throwing themselves
down to sleep, preferring rest to supper. This day I had but fifteen
men out of twenty-two; the others were sick. ..
. Our voyage could have been performed with great convenience, if
we had taken our departure in June.
But the most proper time would be to leave the Illinois as soon as
the ice would permit, when the river would be of a good height.
Monday, 30th September.—Loaded my two boats, moved over and
encamped on the island. In the mean time, I took a survey of the
falls, portage, &c. to examine whether it might be possible to .pass
the falls at high water, of which I am doubtful*; if practicable, it
must be on the eastern side, about thirty yards from shore; as there
are three layers of rocks, one below the other, the pitch off of either is
not more than five feet.
From the river St. Peter's to the Falls of St. Anthony, the Mississippi
is contracted between high hills, and is one continued rapid or fall, the
bottom being covered with rocks, which (in low water) are some feet
above the surface, leaving narrow channels between them. The ra-
pidity of the cbrrent is likewise much augmented by the numerous
small rocky islands which obstruct the navigation.
The shores have many large and beautiful springs issuing from
them, which form small cascades as they tumble over the cliffs into
the Mississippi. The timber is generally Maple. This place is not
noted for any great number of wild fowls.'
The Falls of St. Anthony did not strike me with that majestic ap-
pearance which I had been taught to expect from the description of
other travellers. On an actual survey I find the portage to be two
hundred and sixty poles, but when the river is not very low, boats
ascending may put in thirty-one poles below at a large cedar tree,
which would reduce it to two hundred and twenty-nine poles. The
* Never possible, as ascertained in my return.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 45
hill on which the portage is made is sixty-nine feet ascent, with an
elevation at the point of debarkation of 45°. The fall of the water
between the place of debarkation and of reloading is fifty-eight feet,
the perpendicular fall of the shoot sixteen feet and a half, the width
of the river above the shoot six hundred and twenty-seven yards,
below two hundred and nine. In high water the appearance is much
more sublime, as the great quantity of water then forms a spray,
which in clear weather reflects from some positions the colours of the
rainbow, and when the sky is overcast, covers the falls in gloom and
chaotic majesty.
Tuesday, 1st October.—We" again embarked to proceed on our
voyage above the falls. The river at first appeared mild and suf-
ficiently deep for the easy passage of our boats; but after we had
advanced about four miles, the shoals commenced, and we had very
hard water all day; we passed in all three rapids: killed one
goose and three ducks: the sun shone for the first time since we had
left the falls; distance advanced seventeen miles.
From the Falls of St. Anthony to the Rum river, the Mississippi is
almost one continued chain of rapids, with the eddies formed by
winding channels. The land on both sides consists of prairie, with
scarcely any timber, excepting small groves of scrub oak. Rum
river is about fifty yards wide at its mouth, and takes its source in
Le Mille Lac, which is but thirty-five miles south of lower red
Cedar Lake. The small Indian canoes ascend this river quite to the
lake, the ground in the neighbourhood of which is considered one of
the best hunting stations for some hundred of miles, and has long
been a scene of contention between the hunting parties of the Sioux
and Sauteaux. The last winter a number of the Fols Avoins, and
Sioux, and some Sauteaux, wintered in that quarter.
From Rum river to Leaf river (called by Father Kennipin
and Carver, the river St. Francis, and formed the extent of
G 2
44 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
their travels) the prairies continue with a few interruptions, the,
timber scrub oak, with now and then a lonely pine.
Wednesday, 2d October.—We embarked at our usual hour, and
shortly after passed some large islands, and remarkably hard ripples.
Indeed the navigation, to persons not determined to proceed, would
have been deemed impracticable. We waded nearly all day to force
the boats off shoals, and draw them through rapids: killed three
geese and two swans. We observed much appearance of elk and
deer; distance advanced twelve miles.
Thursday, 3d October—The weather was extremely cold in the
morning, the mercury being at 0°; we proceeded very well, though
some ripples occurred; killed three geese and one rackoon, also a
blaireau, an animal I had never before seen: distance advanced fif-
teen miles and a half.
Friday, 4th October.—Rained in the morning, but the wind
serving, we embarked, although extremely raw and cold. Passed
Crow river, on the west. The stream is about thirty yards wide, and
bears from the Mississippi S. W. Opposite to the mouth of Crow
river, we found a bark canoe, cut to pieces with tomahawks, and the
paddles broken lying on shore. A short distance higher up we
saw five more, and continued to discover similar wrecks until we had
found eight. From the form of the canoes my interpreter pro-
nounced them to be Sioux; and some broken arrows he declared to
have belonged to the Sauteurs. The paddles were also marked with
the Indian sign of men and women killed. From all these circum-
stances we inferred, that the canoes had belonged to a party of
Sioux, who had been attacked by the Sauteurs and all killed, or
taken prisoners. My interpreter was much alarmed, assuring me
that it was probable, that at our first meeting with the Chippeways,
we should be mistaken by them for Sioux traders, and be fired at
before we could come to an explanation. He stated that they had
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 45
murdered three Frenchmen, whom they found on the shore about this
time last year; but notwithstanding his information, I was on
shore all the afternoon in pursuit of elk. During this excursion I
caught a curious little animal on the prairie, which my Frenchman
termed a prairie mole, but it is very different from the mole of the
states; killed two geese, one pheasant, and a wolf; distance ad-
vanced sixteen miles.
Saturday, 5th October.—Had hard water and ripples all day;
passed by some old Sioux encampments, all fortified; found five
Jitters in which sick or wounded men had been carried. At this
place a hard battle was fought between the Sioux and Sauteurs in the
year 1800: killed one goose; distance advanced eleven miles.
Sunday, 6th October.—Early in the morning we discovered four
elks, which were the first we saw; they swam the river, I pursued
them, and wounded one, but he made his escape into a marsh; saw
afterwards two droves of elk, but could not approach them. I killed
some small game, and joined the boats at dusk. During my excur-
sion I found a small red capot hung upon a tree, which my interpre-
ter informed me was a sacrifice by some Indians to the Bon Dieu. I
determined to lay by and hunt the next day: killed three prairie
hens, and two pheasants; distance advanced twelve miles.
Monday, ?th October.—Lay by in order to dry my corn, clothing,
&c. and to investigate the conduct of my serjeant, against whom
charges had been exhibited; sent several of my men out hunting;
went myself towards evening and killed four prairie hens; the hunters
were unsuccessful, having killed only three prairie hens and six
pheasants.
Tuesday, 8th October.—Embarked early and made a very good
day's progress, but had three rapids to pass on the western side. We
passed some woodland, consisting chiefly of oak, but the whole
bottom was covered with the prickly ash.
I made it a practice, to oblige every man who complained of in-
46 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
disposition, to march on shore; by which means I had some flankers
on both sides of the river, who were excellent guards against sur-
prise ; they also served as hunters: distance advanced twenty miles.
Wednesday, 9th October.—Embarked early, the wind a-head. The
shores consisted of barrens and prairie ; killed one deer and four
pheasants; distance advanced three miles.
Thursday, 10th October.—We arrived in the morning at the place
where Mr. Reinville and Mons. Portier wintered in 1797; passed a
cluster of more than twenty islands in the course of four miles ; these
I called Beaver islands, ffom the great signs of those animals which
they exhibited, for they had constructed dams on every island, with
roads from them every two or three rods distance. Encamped in
the evening at the foot of the grand rapids: killed two geese, five
ducks, and four pheasants; distance advanced sixteen miles and a
half.
Friday, 11th October—Both the boats had passed the worst of the
rapids by 11 o'clock, but the men were obliged to wade and lift them
over rocks, which had not a foot of water on them, while at times
the next step they would be in the water over their heads. In con-
sequence of these circumstances, our boats were frequently in im-
minent danger of being bilged on the rocks. About five miles above
the rapids, our large boat was discovered to leak so fast, that it
became necessary to unload her. Having done this, and stopped
the leaks, we reloaded. Near a war encampment, at this place, I
found a painted buck skin, and a piece of scarlet cloth, suspended
on a tree; this I supposed to be dedicated to Matcho Manitou by
the Indians, to ensure the success of their enterprise; but I took
the liberty of invading the rights of his diabolical majesty, by appro-
priating the articles, as the priests of old have often done similar
offerings, to my own use: killed only two ducks; distance advanced
eight miles.
From Leaf river to Sac river, a little above the grajftd rapids, both
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 47
sides of the Mississippi are generally prairie, with skirts of scrub oak;
the navigation still obstructed with ripples, but with some intermis-
sions of a few miles. Sac river is about two hundred yards
wide at its mouth, and bears from the Mississippi about south-
west.
At the grand rapids the river expands itself to about three-fourths
of a mile in width (its general width not being more than three-fifths
of a mile), and tumbles over an unequal bed of rocks for about two
miles, through which there cannot be said to be any channel, for
notwithstanding the rapidity of the current, one of my invalids who
was on the western shore waded to the eastern, where we were en-
camped; the eastern bank at the rapids is a very high prairie, the
western scrubby wood land.
Saturday, 12th October.—Hard ripples in the morning; but after
having passed a narrow rocky place, we had good water: our large
boat again sprung a leak, and we were obliged to encamp early and
unload: killed one deer, one wolf, two geese, and two ducks;
distance advanced twelve miles and a half.
Sunday, 13th October.—Embarked early and came on well with
good water, and fair wind; passed a handsome little stream on the
east, which we named Clear river; killed one deer, one beaver, two
minks, two geese, and one duck. This day we discovered the first
buffalo sign, and came to the first timber land above the falls' of St.
Anthony; distance advanced twenty-nine miles.
Monday, 14th October.—Ripples for a considerable way. My
hunters killed three deer, four geese, and two porcupines. While I was
out hunting I discovered a trail, which I supposed to have been made
by the savages. I followed it with much precaution, and at length
started a large bear, feeding on the carcass of a deer; he soon made
his escape. This was the first discovery of bear since we left St.
Louis, excepting what we saw three miles below St. Peter's: dis-
tance advanced seventeen miles.
Tuesday, 15th October.—Rippks all day. la the Morning the
48 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
large boat came up, and I once more got my party together; they
had been detained by taking in the game. Yesterday and to-day
passed some skirts of good lands, well timbered, swamps of hemlock
and white pine. The water continued very hard, and the river be-
came shallow and full of islands. We encamped on a beautiful
point on the west, below a fall of the river over a bed of rocks,
through which we had two narrow shoots to make our way the next
day ; killed two deer, five ducks, and two geese. This day made us
think seriously of our wintering ground, and of leaving our large
boats: distance advanced five miles.
Wednesday, 16th October.—When we arose in the morning, we
found that snow had fallen during the night; the ground was cover-
ed, and it still continued snowing. This was indeed but poor encou-
ragement for attacking the rapids, in which we were certain to have
to wade up to our necks in water. I was determined however, if pos-
sible, to make Corbeau or Raven river, the highest point ever reached
by traders in the bark canoes. We embarked, and after four hours
work, became so benumbed with cold, that our limbs were perfectly
useless; we put to shore on the opposite side of the river, about
two-thirds of the way up the rapids, built a large fire, and then
discovered that our boats were nearly half full of water; both hav-
ing sprung large leaks, so as to oblige me to keep three hands bail-
ing. My serjeant (Kennerman,) one of the stoutest men I ever
knew, burst a blood-vessel, and vomited nearly two quarts of blood.
One of my corporals (Bradley) also discharged nearly a pint of
blood, when he attempted to void his urine.
These unhappy circumstances, in addition to the inability of four
other men, whom we were obliged to leave on shore, convinced me,
that if I had no regard for my own health and constitution, I ought
to have some for those poor fellows, who were killing themselves to
obey my orders. After we had breakfasted and refreshed ourselves,
we went down to our boats, on the rocks, where I was obliged to leave
them. I now informed my men, that we should return to the camp,
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 49
and leave on this spot some of the party and our large boats. This
information proved agreeable to them, and the effort to reach the
camp was soon accomplished. My reasons for this step have already
been in part stated. The necessity of unloading and refitting my
boats, the beauty and convenience of the spot for building huts, the
fine pine trees it afforded for perroques, the quantity of game
which abounded in the neighbourhood, were additional inducements.
By leaving men at this place, I was sure of plenty of provisions
for my returning voyage. In the party left behind was one hunter,
to be continually employed, who would keep our stock of salt pro-
visions good.
We immediately unloaded our boats and secured their cargoes.
In the evening I went out upon a small but beautiful creek, which
empties into the falls, for the purpose of selecting pine trees to make
canoes; saw five deer, and killed one buck, weighing one hundred
and thirty-seven pounds. Distance two hundred and thirty-three
miles and a half above the falls of St. Anthony.
From Sac river to Pine creek, our present station, the quantity of
game continued to increase. The borders of the river consist of prairie,
with groves of pine on the edge of the banks, but there are some excep-
tions, where we meet with small bottoms of oak, ash, maple, and lyme.
In this distance there is an intermission of rapids for about forty
miles, when they commence again, full as difficult as ever. There are
three small creeks emptying in on the west, scarcely worthy of notice,
and on the east are two small rivers, Lake and Clear rivers, men-
tioned before; the former, a small stream about fifteen yards wide,
bearing N. W. at its mouth. About three miles from its entrance is
a beautiful small lake, around which resort immense herds of elk and
buffalo. Clear river is a delightful little stream, of about eighty-
yards in width, and heads in some swamps and small lakes, on which
the Sauteaux of lower red Cedar lake and Sandy Jake frequently comb
50 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
to hunt. The soil of the prairies from above the falls is sandy, but
would raise small grain in abundance ; the bottom is rich and fit for
corn or hemp.
Pine creek is a small stream which comes in on the western shore,
and bears nearly west. It is bounded by large groves of white and
red pine.
Thursday, 17th October.—It continued to snow; I walked out in
the morning and killed four bears, and my hunter three deers.
Felled our trees for canoes, and commenced working on them.
Friday, 18th October.—Stopped hunting, and put every hand to
work; cut sixty logs for huts, and worked at the canoes. This,
considering we had only two felling axes, and three hatchets, was
pretty good work. Weather cloudy with a little snow.
Saturday, 19th October.—Raised one of our houses, and almost
completed one canoe. I was employed the principal part of this
day in writing letters, and making arrangements which I deemed
necessary, in case I should never return.
Sunday, 20th October.—Continued our labour at the houses and
canoes, finished my letters, &c. At night discovered the prairie on
the opposite side of the river to be on fire, which I supposed to have
been occasioned by the Sauteurs. I wished much to have our
situation respectable here, or I would have sent the next day to dis-
cover them.
Monday, 21st October.—Went out hunting, but killed nothing, not
wishing to shoot at small game. Our labour went on.
Tuesday, 22d October*—Went out hunting: about fifteen miles up
the creek saw a great quantity of deer, but from the dryness of the
woods, and the quantity of brush, only shot one through the body,
which made its escape. This day my men neglected their work,
which convinced me I must leave off hunting and superintend
them. Miller and myself lay out all night in the pine wooda.
Wednesday, 23d October.—Raised three block houses, deposited
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. £1
all our property in the one already completed; killed a tmmbet of
pheasants and ducks, while visiting my canoe makers. Sleets artd
snow.
Thursday, 24th October.—The snow having fallen one or twd
inches thick in the night, I sent out one hunter (Sparks) and werti
out myself: Bradley my other hunte? being sick. Each tif OS killed
two deer, one goose, and one pheasant.
Friday, 25th Oc/d&er.^Sent out men with Sparkd to bring iit his
game; none of them returned, and I supposed them to be lost in"
the hemlock swamps, with which the country abounds1. My inter-
preter, however, whom I believe to be a coward, insisted that they
itere killed by the Sauteurs. Made arrangements for my de-
parture.
Saturday, 26th October.—Launched my canoes and found them
very small. My hunters killed three deer. Took out Miller and.
remained out all night, but killed nothing.
Sunday, 27 th October.—Employed in preparing our baggage to
embark.
Monday,- 28th October.—My two canoes being finished, launched
and brought them to the head of the rapids, where I put my provi-
sion, ammunition, &c. on board, intending to embark by da3rlight.
Having left them under the charge of the centinel, in about an hoiir
one of them, containing the ammunition and my baggage, sunk: the
accident was occasioned by what is called a wind shock. This misfor-
tune, and the extreme smallness of my canoes, induced me to build
another. I had my cartridges spread out on blankets, and large
fifes made around them; at that time I was not able to ascertain the
full extent of the damage, the magnitude of which Aone can
estimate, excepting those in the same situation with ourselves,
fifteen hundred miles from civilized society, and in danger of fotfitfg
the very means of defence, nay, even of existence.
Tuesday, 29th October.—Felled a large pine and commenced
52 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
another canoe; I was at work at my cartridges all day, but did not
save five dozen out of thirty. In attempting to dry the powder in
pots, blew it up, and it had nearly blown up a tent and two or three
men with it. Made a dozen new cartridges, with the old wrapping
paper.
Wednesday, 30th October.—My men laboured as usual; nothing
extraordinary occurred.
Thursday, Sist October.—Enclosed my little work completely with
piquets; hauled up my two boats, and turned them over on each
side of the gateways, by which means a defence was made to the
river; and had it not been for various political reasons, I would have
laughed at the attack of eight hundred or a thousand savages, if
all my party were within. For, save accidents, it would only have
afforded amusement, the Indians having no idea of taking a place
by storm.
I found myself this day powerfully attacked with the fantastics of
the brain, called ennui, at the mention of which I had hitherio
scoffed; but my books being packed up, I was like a person en-
tranced, and could easily conceive why so many persons, who have
been confined to remote places, have acquired the habit of drinking
to excess, and many other practices which have been adopted
merely to pass time.
Friday, 1st November.—Finding that my canoe would not be
finished under two or three days, I concluded to take six men and
go down the river about twelve miles, where we had observed great
signs of elk and buffalo. We arrived there early in the afternoon,
and all turned out to hunt, but none of us killed any thing except
Sparks, who shot one doe. A slight snow fell.
Saturday, 2d November.—Left the camp with the full determination
of killing an elk if possible before my return. I had never yet killed
one of these animals. Took with me Miller, whose obliging disposition
made him agreeable in the woods. I was determined that if we
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 53
came on the trail of elk, to follow them a day or two in order to kill
one. This to a person acquainted with the nature of those animals,
and the extent of the prairies in this country, would appear, what it
really was, a very foolish resolution. We soon struck where a herd of
one hundred and fifty had passed, pursued and came in sight about
eight o'clock, when they appeared, at a distance, like any army of
Indians, moving along in single file j a large buck of at least four
feet between the horns leading the ran, and one of equal magnitude
bringing up the rear. We followed till near night, without being
once able to get within point blank shot. I once made Miller fire
at them with his musquet, at about four hundred yards distance; it
had no other effect than to make them leave us about five miles
behind on the prairie. We passed several deer in the course of the
day, which I think we could have killed, but did not fire for fear
of alarming the elk. Finding that it was no easy matter to kill one,
I shot a doe through the body, as I perceived by her blood where she
lay down in the snow, yet, not knowing how to track, we lost her.
Shortly after we saw three elk by themselves, near a copse of wood;
approached near them and broke the shoulder of one, but he ran off
with his companions, just as I was about to follow. I observed a
buck deer lyingin the grass, which I shot behind the eyes, when he fell
over. I walked up to him, put my foot on his horns and examined
the shot, upon which he snorted, bounced up and fell about five
steps from me. This I considered his last effort, but soon after, to
our utter astonishment, he jumped up and ran off: he stopped fre-
quently; we pursued him expecting him to fall every minute, by
which we were led from the pursuit of the wounded elk. After
having wearied ourselves out in this unsuccessful chase, we returned
to pursue the wounded elk, and when we came up to the party,
found him missing from the flock. Shot another in the body, but
my ball being small he likewise escaped; wounded another deer.
Being now hungry, cold, and fatigued, after having wounded three
54 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
deer and two elk, we were obliged to encamp, in a point of hemlock
woods, on the head of Clear river. The large herd of elk lay about
one mile from us, in the prairie. Our want of success I ascribe to
the smallness of our balls, and to our inexperience in following the
track, after wounding them, for it is very seldom a deer drops on
the spot where he is shot.
Sunday, 3d November.—Rose pretty early and went in pursuit of
the elk; wounded one buck deer on the way. Made an attempt to
drive them into the woods, but their leader broke past us, and it
appeared as if the drove would have followed him, though they had
been obliged to run over us: we fired at them passing, but without
effect. Pursued them through the swamp till about ten o'clock,
when I determined to attempt to make the river, and for that pur-
pose took a due south course; passed many droves of elk and
buffalo, but being in the middle of an immense prairie, knew it was
folly to attempt to shoot them. Wounded several deer, but got
none; in fact, I knew I could shoot as many deer as any body, but
neither myself nor companion could find one in ten, where an expe-
rienced hunter would have got all he shot. Near night we struck a
lake about five miles long, and two miles wide: saw immense droves
of elk on both banks. About sun down we saw a herd crossing the
prairie towards us, which induced us to sit down; two bucks more
curious than the others, came pretty close. I struck one of them
behind the fore shoukler; he did not go more than twenty yards,
before he fell and died. This was the cause of much exultation,
because it fulfilled my determination, and as we had been two days
and nights without victuals, it was a very acceptable prize. We
found during our excursion some scrub oak.
After having proceeded about a mile farther, we made a fire, and
with much labour and pains got our meat to it; the wolves feasting
upon one half, while we were carrying away the other. We
were now provisioned, but were still in want of water; the snow
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 55
being all melted; finding my thirst very excessive in the night, I
went in search of water, and was much surprised after having gone
about a mile, to strike the Mississippi: here I filled my hat, and
returned to my companion.
Monday, 4th November.—Repaired my mockinsons, using a piece
of elk's bone as an awl. We both went to the Mississippi, and
found we were a great distance from the camp. I left Miller to
guard the meat, and marched for camp: having strained my
ancles in the swamps, they were extremely painful, and the strings
of my mockinsons cut them, and made them swell considerably.
Before I had proceeded far. I discovered a herd of ten elk; I ap-
proached within fifty yards, and shot one through the body; he fell
on the spot, but rose again and ran off. I pursued him at least five
miles, expecting every minute to see him drop; I then gave him up.
When I arrived at Clear river, a deer was standing on the other
bank; I killed him on the spot, and while I was taking out the
entrails another came up. I shot him also: this was my last ball,
and then only could I kill! I left part of my cloaths at this place
to scare the wolves: arrived at my camp at dusk, to the great joy of
our men, who had been to our little garrison to inquire for me, and
receiving no intelligence, had concluded we had been killed, by the
Indians, having heard them fire on the opposite bank. The same
night we saw fires on the opposite shore in the prairie; this was
likewise seen from the fort, when all the men moved in the works,
Tuesday, 5th November.—Sent four of my men with our canoe,
loaded with the remains of nine deer that had been killed, with the
other two. Went down the river for my meat, stopped for the deer
which I found safe. Miller had just started to march home, but
returned to camp. Found all the meat safe and brought it to the
river, where we pitched our camp.
Wednesday, 6th November.—At the earnest entreaties of my men,
and with the hope of killing some more game, I agreed to stay and
56 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
hunt. We went out and found that all the elk and buffalo had the
day before gone down the river from those plains, leaving large
roads to point out their course. This did not appear extraordi-
nary to us, as the prairie had unluckily, caught fire. After Miller
left the camp for home, Sparks killed two deer about six miles off,
and it being near the river, I sent the three men down with the canoe,
with orders to return early in the morning. It commenced snowing
about midnight, and by morning the snow was six inches deep.
Thursday, 7th November.—Waited all day with the greatest anxiety
for my men. The river became nearly filled with snow, partly
congealed into ice; my situation can more easily be imagined than
described. I went down the river to where I understood the deer
were killed, but discovered nothing of the men. I became very
uneasy on their account, for I was well aware of the hostile disposi-
tion of the Indians to all persons on this part of the Mississippi,
taking them to be traders, and we had not had an opportunity of
explaining to them who we were. Snow still continued falling very
fast, and was nearly knee deep. Had great difficulty to procure
wood sufficient to keep up a fire during the night. Ice in the river
thickening.
Friday, 8th November.—My men not yet arrived, I determined
to depart for the garrison, and when the river had frozen, to come
down on the ice with a party, or if the weather became mild, by
water, with my other perroques to search for them. Put up about
ten pounds of meat, two blankets and a bear skin, with my sword
and gun; which, together, made for me a very heavy load. I left
the meat in as good a situation as possible; wrote on the snow my
wishes, and put my handkerchief up as a flag. My anxiety was so
great, that notwithstanding my load, and the depth of the snow, I
entered the bottom above our former hunting camp a little before
night. Passed several deer and one elk, which I might probably
have killed, but not knowing whether I should be able to secure the
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 57
meat, and bearing in mind that they were created for the use and
not the sport of man, I did not fire at them. Whilst I was endea-
vouring to strike fire, I heard voices, and looking around, observed
my Corporal Meek and three men passing; called them to me, and
we embarked together. They were on their march down to see if
they could render us any assistance in ascending the river. They
were much grieved to hear my report of Corporal Bradley, Sparks,
and Miller.
Saturday, 9th November.—Snowed a little: the men carried my
pack. I was so sore, that it was with difficulty I carried my gun.
Fortunately they brought with them a pair of mockinsons, sent me
by one of my soldiers (Owings) who had rightly calculated that I
was barefoot; also a phial of whiskey, sent by the sergeant, which
were both very acceptable to me. They brought also some tobacco
for my lost men. We experienced difficulty in crossing the river
owing to the ice. Here I set all hands to work making sledges, in
order that the moment the river closed, I might descend with a strong
party, in search of our missing companions. Issued provision, and was
obliged to use six venison hams, being part of a quantity of choice
ones I had preserved, to take down if possible to the general and
some other friends. Had the two hunters not been found, I must
have become a slave to hunting, in order to support my party: the
ice still ran very thick.
Sunday, 10th November.—Continued making sledges. No news of
my hunters; ice in the river very thick and hard. Raised my tent
with punchions, and laid a floor in it.
Monday, 11th November.—I went out hunting; saw but two deer;
killed a remarkably large black fox. Bradley and Miller arrived,
having understood the writing on the snow, and left Sparks behind
at the camp to take care of the meat.
Their detention was owing to their being lost on the prairie the
first night, and not being able to find their deer.
i
58 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
Tuesday, 12th November.—Despatched Miller and Huddleston to
the lower hunting camp, and Bradley and Brown to hunt in the
Avoods. Made my arrangements in camp. Thawing weather.
Wednesday, 13th November.—Bradley returned with a very large
buck, which supplied us for the next four days.
Thursday, 14th November.—It commenced raining at four o'clock,
A. M. and continued with lightning and loud thunder. I went down
the river in one of my canoes with five men, in order to bring up
the meat from the lower camp; but after descending about thirteen
miles, found the river blocked up with ice,—returned about two
miles, and encamped in the bottom where I had my hunting camp
on the first instant.—Extremely cold towards night.
Friday, 15th November.—When we intended to embark in the
morning, found the river full of ice and hardly moving; returned
to camp and went out to hunt, for we had no provision with us:
killed nothing but five prairie hens, which afforded us this day's
subsistence: this bird I took to be the same as grouse. Expecting
the ice had become hard we attempted to cross the river, but with-
out success; in the endeavour one man fell through.
Saturday, 16th November. — Detached Corporal Meek and one
private to the garrison, to order the sledge down. No success in
hunting except a fevr fowls: I began to consider the life of a
hunter a very slavish one, and extremely precarious as to support;
for sometimes I have myself (although no hunter,) killed six hundred
weight of meat in one day; and at others, I have hunted three
days successively, without killing any thing but a few small birds,
which I was obliged to do to keep my men from starving.—
Freezing—
Sunday, 17th November.—One of my men arrived, he had at-
tempted to make the camp before, but lost himself in the prairie,
lay out all night and froze his toes: he informed us that the corporal
and the men I sent with him, had their toes frost-bitten, the former
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 59
very badly; that three men were on their way down by land, the
river above not being frozen over. They arrived a few hours before
nigh t.—Freezing.
Monday, 18th November.—Took our departure down the river on
the ice, our baggage on the sledge. Ice very rough; distance
twelve miles.—Freezing.
Tuesday, 19th November.—Arrived opposite our hunting camp
about noon, had the meat, &c. moved over; the men had a large
quantity. I went out and killed a very large buck.—Thawing.
Wednesday, 20th November.—Departed to return to the stockade;
part of our meat on the sledge, and part in the little perroque,
(the river being open in the middle;) killed four deer. Thawing;
distance advanced, five miles.
Thursday, 21st November. Marched in the morning—came to a
place where the river was very narrow, and the channel blocked up,
where we were obliged to unload our perroque and haul her over:
the river having swelled a good deal in this place, the ice gave way
with myself and two men; we seized the sledge that stood by us,
with some little baggage on it, and by jumping over four cracks,
the last two feet wide, providentially made our passage good, with-
out losing an individual thing. Encamped opposite Clear river;
killed one deer and one otter': freezing.
Friday, 22d November.—Were obliged to leave our canoe at
Clear river, the Mississippi being closed: made two trips with our
sledge. Killed one <leer; distance advanced five miles.
Saturday, 23d November.—Having seen a great deal of buffalo
signs, I determined to kill one the next day, (forgetting ray former
chase.) Encamped nearly opposite our camp of the 15th and 16th.
Thawing; distance advanced four miles.
Sunday, 24th November.—Took Miller and Boley, and went in
pursuit of buffalo. We came up with some about ten o'clock; in
i 2
60 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
-
the afternoon wounded one, pursued them until night and encamp-
ed on the side of a swamp.. Thawing.
Monday, 25th November.—Commenced again the pursuit of the
buffalo, and continued it till eleven o'clock, when I gave up the
chase. Arrived at the camp about sun-down, hungry and weary,
having eaten nothing since we left it. My rifle carried too small a
ball to kill buffalo; the balls should not be more than thirty to a
pound, an ounce ball would be still preferable, and the animal
should be hunted on horseback: I think that in the prairies of this
country the bow and arrow could be used to more advantage than
the gun; for you might ride immediately alongside, and strike them
where you pleased, then leave them and proceed after others.
Tuesday, 26th November.—Proceeded up the river; the ice getting
very rotten, the men fell through several times. Thawing; distance
advanced five miles.
Wednesday, 27th November.—Took one man with me and marched
to the fort, found all well. My hunter, Bradley, had killed eleven
deer since my departure: sent all the men down to help the party
up; they returned accompanied by two Indians, who informed me
they belonged to a band who resided on lake Superior, called Fols
Avoins; but spoke the language of the Chippeways. They told me
that Mr. Dickson's and the other trading houses, were established
about sixty miles below—that there were seventy lodges of Sioux
on the Mississippi. All my men arrived at the post. We brought
from our camp below the residue of seventeen deer and two elks.
Thursday, 28th November.—The Indians departed much pleased
•with their reception. I despatched Corporal Meek and one private
down to Mr. Dickson with a letter, which would at least have the
effect of attaching the most powerful tribes in this quarter to my
interest.
Friday, 2pth November.—A Sioux,, (the son of a warrior called the
Killeur Rouge, of the gens des Feuilles) and a Fols Avoin, came to
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 61
the post: the young chief said that having struck our trail below, and
finding some to be shoe-tracks, he had conceived it to be the establish-
ment of some traders, followed it and came to the post. He in formed me,
that Mr. Dickson had told the Sioux, "That they might now hunt
where they pleased, as I had gone before and would cause the
Chippeways, wherever 1 met them, to treat them with friendship;
that I had barred up the mouth of the St. Peter's, so that no liquor
could ascend that river; but if they came on the Mississippi, they
should have what they wanted: also that I was on the river, and had
a great deal of merchandize to give them in presents." This in-
formation of Mr. Dickson to the Indians, seemed to have self-interest
and envy for its motives; for by giving the Indians the idea of my
having prevented liquor from going up the St. Peter's, he led them to
understand, that it was a regulation of my own, and not a law of
the United States; and by assuring them he would sell to them on
the Mississippi, he drew all the Indians from the traders on the
St. Peter's, who had adhered to the restriction of not selling liquor;
and should any of them be killed, the blame would all be made to
rest on me, as he had (without authority) assured them they might
hunt in security. I took care to give the young chief a full expla-
nation of my ideas on the above points. He remained all night.
Killed two deer.
Saturday, 30th November.—I made the two Indians some small
presents; they crossed the river and departed. Detached Kenner-
man with eleven men to bring up two canoes.
Sunday, 1st December.—Snowed a little in the middle of the day;
went out with my gun, but killed nothing.
Monday, 2d December.—Sparks arrived about ten o'clock at night
from the party below, and informed me they could not kill any
game; but had started up with the little perroque: also that Mr.
Dickson and a Frenchman had passed my detachment about three
hours before; he left them on their march to the post.
6* VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
Tuesday, 3d December.—Mr. Dickson with one engagee, and a
young Indian, arrived at the fort; I received him with every polite-
ness in ray power, and after a serious conversation with him on the
subject of the information given me on the 29th ult, was induced
to believe it in part incorrect. He assured me that no liquor was
sold by him, nor by any houses under his direction: he gave me
much useful information relative to my future route, which afford-
ed me great encouragement as to the certainty of accomplishing the
object of my voyage, to the fullest extent. He seemed to be a
gentleman of general commercial knowledge, and possessed of
much geographical information respecting the western country, and
of open frank manners. He gave me many assurances of his good
wishes for the prosperity of my undertaking.
Wednesday, 4th December.-—My men arrived with one canoe only.
Thursday, 5th December.—Mr. Dickson with his two men de-
parted for their station, after having furnished me with a letter for
a young man of his house, on lake De Sable, and a carte blanche
as to my commands on him. Weather mild.
Friday, 6th December.—I despatched my men to bring up the
other perroque with a strong sledge, on which it was intended to put
the canoe about one-third, and to let the end drag on the ice. The
families of the Fols Avoins arrived and encamped near the fort;
also one Sioux, who pretended to have been sent to me from the
Gens des Feuilles, to inform me that the Yanctongs and Sussitongs,
^two bands of Sioux from the head of the St. Peter's and Missouri,
and the most savage of the tribe) had commenced the war dance,
and would depart in a few days; in which case he conceived it
would be advisable for the Fols Avoins to keep close under my
protection: that making a stroke on the Chippeways would tend
to injure the grand object of my voyage, &c. &c. Some reasons
induced me to believe he was a self-created envoy; however I offer-
ed to pay him, or any young Sioux, who would go to those bands,
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 63
and carry my word; he promised to make known my wishes on his
return. My men came back in the evening without my canoe, having
been so unfortunate as to split her, in carrying her over the rough
hilly ice in the ripples below. So many disappointments almost
wearied my patience; but, notwithstanding, I intended to embark
by land and water in a few days.
Saturday, 7th December.—An Indian (by the name of the Chien
Blanc) of the Fols Avoin tribe, with his family and connections,
arrived and encamped near the stockade. He informed me that he
had wintered here for ten years past, that the sugar-camp near the
stockade was the place where he made sugar: he appeared to be
an intelligent man. I visited his camp in the afternoon and found
him seated amidst his children and grand-children, amounting in all
to ten; his wife, although of an advanced age, was suckling two
infants, who appeared to be about two years old. I should have taken
them to be twins had not one been much fairer than the other. Upon
enquiry, I found that the fairest was the daughter of an English-
man, by one of the Indians lately deceased, since whose death the
grandmother had taken it to the breast. His lodge was made of
rushes, plaited into mats, after the manner of the Illinois. I was
obliged to give some meat to all the Indians who arrived at the
stockade, at the same time explaining our situation: the Chien
Blanc assured me it should be repaid with interest in the course
of the winter; but that, at this time, he was without any thing to
eat. In fact, our hunters having killed nothing for several days, we
were ourselves on short allowance.
Sunday, 8th December.—An invalid Sioux arrived with informa-
tion that the bands of the Sussitongs and Yanctongs had actually
determined to make war upon the Chippeways, and had formed a
party of a hundred and fifty or a hundred and sixty men; but that
part of the Sussitongs had refused to join with them, and would be
with me on a visit the next day: this occasioned me to delay
64 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
crossing the river on my voyage to Lake Sang Sue, or Leech lake, as
it was possible that by having a conference with them I might still
prevent the stroke intended to be made against the Chippeways.
Monday, 9th December.—Prepared to embark. Expecting the
Sioux, I had two large kettles of soup made for them. As a pastime,
had a shooting match with four prizes. The Sioux did not arrive,
and we ate the soup ourselves: crossed the river, and encamped
above the rapids; wind changed and the weather grew cold.
Tuesday, 10th December After arranging our sledges* and perroques,
we commenced our march, the sledges on the prairie and the per-
roque towed by three men. We found it extremely difficult to get
along, the snow being melted off" the prairie in spots. The men who
had the canoe were obliged in many places to wade, and drag her
over the rocks. I shot the only deer I saw; it fell three times, and
afterwards made its escape. This was a great disappointment, for
upon the game we took we now depended for our subsistence. This
evening disclosed to my men the real danger they had to encoun-
ter. Distance advanced five miles.
Wednesday, 11th December.—It having thawed all night, the snow
had almost melted from the prairie. I walked on until ten o'clock,
and made a fire. I then returned to look for the perroque, and at a
remarkable rapid in the river, opposite to a high piney island, made
a fire, and waited for them to come up, when we partly unloaded her;
I returned and met the sledges. When we arrived at the place
pitched on for our camp, I sent the men down to assist the perroque.
In the afternoon, from about three o'clock, we heard the report of not
less than fifty guns a-head, and after dusk, much shouting on the
prairie. I was at a loss to know who the party could be, unless they
* My sledges were such as are frequently seen about farmers' yards, calculated to hold
two barrels or four hundred weight, in which two men were geared abreast.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 65
were Sauteurs, and what could be their object in shooting after
dusk: kept a good lookout ; distance advanced five miles.
Thursday, 12th December.—The snow having almost entirely left
the prairie, we were obliged to take on but one sledge at a time, and
treble man it. In the morning my interpreter came to me with quite
a martial air, and requested that he might be allowed to go a-head
to discover what Indians we had heard firing last evening. I gave
him permission, and away he went: shortly after, I went out with
Corporal Bradley and a private; and in about an hour overtook my
partisan, on a bottom, close to the river—he was hunting rackoons,
and had caught five. We left him to his amusement, and after
choosing an encampment, and sending the private back to conduct
the party to it, anxious to discover the Indians, the corporal and my-
self marched on. We ascended the river about eight miles, and saw no
Indians, but found that the river was frozen over, which pleased
me more, for we should now be enabled to walk three times our
usual distance in a day. I was much surprised at discovering no
Indians. After our return to the camp, I was told that a Fols Avoin
Indian had met my party, and informed them, that in the rear
of the hills that bordered the prairie there were small lakes,
which by portages communicated with lake Superior; that in one
day's march along that course, we should find English trading
houses; that the Chippeways were there hunting; that the
Sioux who had visited my camp on the 29th ult. on hearing the
firing had prudently returned, with his companions, to the western
side of the Mississippi, agreeably to my advice.
How greatly would persons unacquainted with the searching spirit of
trade, and the enterprize of the people of the north-west, be surprised
to find men who had penetrated from lake Superior to lakes which were
little better than marshes! It may serve to point out the difficulty of
putting a barrier to their trade. All my sledges and perroques did not
get up ufttil half past ten o'clock; saw a very beautiful fox, called
K
66 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
by my interpreter Reynard d' argent, having a red back, white tail and
breast; but I had no opportunity of shooting it: killed six rackoons
and one porcupine; fine day ; distance advanced seven miles.
Friday, 13th December.—Made double trips; embarked at die
upper" end of the ripples: it commenced snowing at three o'clock,
Bradley killed one deer, another man killed one rackoon; storm conti-
nued until next morning; distance advanced five miles.
Saturday, 14th December.—We departed from our encampment at
the usual hour, but had not advanced one mile, when the foremost
sledge, which happened unfortunately to carry my baggage and am-
munition, fell into the river. We were all in the water up to our mid-
dles, recovering the things. Halted and made a fire: came on to
where the river was frozen over; stopped and encamped on the wes-
tern shore, in a pine wood. Upon examining my things, found all my
baggage wet, and some of nay books materially injured ; but a still
greater misfortune was, that all my cartridges, and four pounds of
double battle super powder, which I had brought for my own use,
were destroyed. Fortunately my kegs of powder were preserved dry,
and some bottles of common glazed powder, which were so tightlj
corked as not to admit water. Had this not been the case, my voy-
age must necessarily have been terminated, for we could not have
subsisted without ammunition. During the time of our misfortune,
two Fols Avoin Indians came to us, one of whom had been at ,aiy
stockade on the 29th ult, in company with the Sioux. I signified to
them, by signs, the place of our intended encampment, and invited
them to come and encamp with us They left me, and both arrived
at my camp in the evening, having each a deer, which they presented
to me. I gave them my canoe to keep until spring, and in the morn-
ing, at parting, made them a small present. Sat up until three
o'clock drying and assorting my ammunition, baggage, &c. : killed
two deer; distance advanced four miles.
Sunday, 15th -Dfcemter.-—Remained at our camp making sledges;
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. «T
killed two deer: crossed and recrossed several Indian trails in the
woods.
Monday, 16th December.—Remained at the same camp. Employed
as yesterday; killed three deer. I wound«d a buffalo in the
shoulder, and by a fair race overtook him in the prairie, and gave
him another shot, but it being near night left him till the morning.
Tuesday, 17th December.—Departed from our agreeable encamp-
ment at an early hour: found our sledges to be very heavily loaded;
broke one sledge runner, and were detained by other circumstances.
Bradley, Rosseau (the interpreter) and myself, killed some deer and
wounded five others.
Having eleven on hand already, I found it necessary to leave be-
hind some of my other loading. At night we dug a hole, in which we
deposited one barrel of pork and one barrel of flour, wrapping them
up in seven deer skins, to preserve them from the damps, we then
filled up the hole, and built our fire immediately over it
Wednesday, 18th December.—Did not get off until eight o'clock,
from the delay in bringing in our meat. The ice was now tolera-
bly good: began this day to see the Chippeways" encampments very
frequently, but had not entirely left the Sioux country on the western
shore. Beautiful pine ridges now appeared.
Thursday, 19th December.—Were obliged to take to the prairie,
from the river being open, but the snow was frozen hard, and the
sledges did not sink deep, so that we made a pretty good day's
journey: killed one deer and two otters: river still open; distance
advanced ten miles.
Friday, 20th December.—Travelled part of the day on the prairi*
and part on the ice; killed one deer; heard three reports of guns
just at sun-set from the opposite side of the river: deposited one
barrel of flour: distance advanced seven miles.
Saturday, 21st December.—Bradley and myself went on a-head, and
overtook my interpreter, who had left camp very early in hopes of
6& VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
being able to see the Reviere de Corbeau or Raven river, where he
had twice wintered. He was immediately opposite a large island,which
he supposed to bear a great resemblance to one at the mouth of the
above river; but finally he concluded it was not the same, and re-
turned to camp. But this proved to be actually the river, as we disco-
vered when we got to the head of the island, from which we could
see its entrance. This fact exposes the ignorance and inattention of
the French and the traders, and, with the exception of a few intelligent
men, shews what little confidence is to be placed on their information.
We ascended the Mississippi about five miles above the conflu-
ence: found it not frozen, but in many places not more than one
hundred yards over, mild and still; exhibiting indeed all the appear-
ance of a small river in a low country. Returned and found my
party, having broken sledges, and had only made good three
miles, while I had marched thirty-five.
Sunday, 22d December.—Killed three deer. Owing to the many
difficult places we had to pass, made but four miles and a half. s
Monday, 23d December.—Never did I undergo more fatigue than
this day, performing the duties ofhunter, spy, guide,command ingofficer>
&c. sometimes in front, sometimes in the rear, frequently in advance
of my party ten or fifteen miles. At night I was scarcely able to
write my notes intelligibly : killed two rackoons. From our sledges
breaking down, and having to make so many portages on the land,
advanced but four miles.
Tuesday, 24th December.—Took the latitude of the Raven island,
and found it to be in 45° 4JX 50" N. The Mississippi becomes very
narrow above the Raven river, and changes its direction from nearly
N. to N.E. generally; distance advanced ten miles and a half.
From Pine creek to the ile de Corbeau (or the river of that name)
two small streams come in on the western shore. The first is of little
consequence, but the second, called Elk river, is entitled to more con-
sideration from its communication with the river St. Peter's. The
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. . 69
first ascent to it is a small lake; this being crossed, they ascend a
small stream to a large lake, from which they mark a portage of four
miles west, and fall into the Sauteaux river, which they descend into
the river St. Peter's. On the eastern side is one small stream which
heads towards lower Cedar lake, and is bounded by hills. The whole
of this distance is remarkably difficult to navigate, being one conti-
nued succession of rapids, shoals, and falls; but there is one that de-
serves to be more particularly noted; viz. the place called by the
French La Chute de la roche peinturee, or the falls of the Painted
Rock, which is certamly the third obstacle, in point of important na-
vigation, which I met with in my whole route.
The shore, where it does not consist of prairie, is a continued suc-
cession of pine ridges: the entrance of the river de Corbeau is partly
hidden by the island of that name, and discharges its waters into the
Mississippi, above and below it: the lowest channel bearing from
the Mississippi N. 65° W. the upper due west. This place should,
in my opinioni be termed the forks of the Mississippi, the other
stream being nearly of equal magnitude, and heading not far from the
same source, although taking a much more direct course to their junc-
tion. It may be observed oh ;the chart, that from St. Louis to this
place, the course of the river had generally been north to the west,
and that from here it bore north-east. . ,
This river affords the best communication with the Red river, and
the navigation is as follows. You may ascend the river de Corbeau one
hundred and eighty miles to the entrance of the river des Feuilles,
which falls from the north-west: this you ascend one hundred and
eighty miles also, then make a portage of half a mile into the Otter
Tail lake, which is a principal source of the Red river. The other
branch of the river de Corbeau bears south-west, and approximates
with St. Peter's. The whole of the river is rapid, and by no means
affording so much water as the Mississippi: their confluence is in la-
TO VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
titud«45* 4£f 5Qf N. In this division the elk, deer, and buffalo, were
probably in greater abundance than in any other part of my whole
voyage.
Wednesday, 25th December.—Marched, and encamped at 11 o'clock:
gave out two pounds extra of meat, two pounds extra of flour, one
gill of whiskey, and some tobacco, to each man, in order to distin-
guish Christmas Day: distance advanced three miles.
Thursday, 26th December.—Damaged four sledges, broke into die
river four times, and had four carrying places since we left the
Raven river. The timber observed this day was all yellow and pitch
pine, of which there was scarcely any below : distance advanced
three miles.
Friday, 37th December.—After having to pass two carrying places,
we arrived where the river was completely closed with ice. After which
we proceeded with some degree of speed and comparative ease: killed
one bear. The country on both sides presented a dreary and
barren 'prospect of high rocks, with dead pine timber: snow; distance
advanced ten miles.
Saturday, 28th December.—Two sledges fell through the ice: in the
morning passed a very poor country; bare knobs on either side;
but towards evening the bottoms became.larger, and the pine ridges
well timbered. Bradley and myself marched ten miles before the
sledges: killed one deer: distance advanced twelve miles.
Sunday, 2pth December.—Cold windy day; met Arith no material
interruptions: passed some rapids; the snow blew from the woods
oa to the river. We found the country full of small lakes, some
three miles in circumference: distance advanced twenty-one
mites.
Monday, 30th December.—The snow having drifted on the ice, re-
tarded the sledges: numerous small lakes and pine ridges continued
to occur: killed one otter; distance advanced twelve miles.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 71
, 31st December—Passsed pine river about eleven o'clock.
From Elk to Pine river the Mississippi continues to become
narrower, and has but few islands. In this distance I discovered but
one rapid, which the force of the frost had not entirely covered
with ice. The shores in general presented a dreary prospect of high
barren knobs, covered with dead and fallen pine timber; to this
there were some exceptions of ridges of yellow, and pitch pine, also
some small bottoms of lyme, elm, oak and ash. The adjacent country,
at least two-thirds of its surface, is covered with small lakes, some of
which are three miles in circumference; this renders the communi-
cation impossible in summer, except with small'bark canoes. In this
distance we first met with a species of pine, called the sap pine; it
was equally unknown to myself and all my party; it scarcely exceeds
the height of thirty-five feet, and is very full of projecting branches.
The leaves are similar to those of other pines, but project out from
the branches on each side in a direct line, thereby rendering
them flat, and this form occasions the natives and voyagers to
give them the preference on all occasions to the branches of all other
trees for their beds, and for covering their temporary camps; but its
greatest recommendations consists in its medicinal virtues. The rind
is smooth, with the exception of little protuberances of about the size
ofahazle nut; the top of which being cut, you squeeze out a gluti-
nous substance of the consistence of hoaey. This gum or sap gives
its name to the tree, and is used by the natives and traders of the
country as a balsam for all wounds made by sharp instruments, or
for parts frozen, and for almost all other external injuries. My poor
fellows experienced its beneficial qualities, by the application made
of it to their frozen extremities in various instances.
The Pine river bears from the Mississippi N. 30° E. although it
empties in on that which has hitherto been termed the western shore.
It is eighty yards wide at its«HHUh, awl has an island immediately at
the entrance; it communicates with Lake Sang Sue or Leech Lake, by
72 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
the following courses of navigation. In one day's sail from the con-
fluence you arrive at the first part of White Fish Lake^which is about
six miles long and two wide ; from thence you pursue the river about
two miles, and come to the second White Fish Lake, which is about
three miles long and one wide; then you have the river for three
miles to the third lake,* which is seven miles long and two in width.
From thence you follow the river a quarter of a mile to the fourth
lake, which is a circular one of about five miles in circumference.
From thence you pursue the river one day's sail to a small lake,
thence two day's sail to a portage, which conveys you to another lake,
from whence, by small portages from lake to lake, you make the
voyage to Leech lake. The whole of this course lies through ridges
of pines or swamps ofpenenet, sap pine, hemlock, &c.
From the river de Corbeau to this place the deer are very plentiful,
but we found no more buffalo or elk.
At the mouth of the Pine river there was a Chippeway encamp-
ment of fifteen lodges which had been occupied in the summer, but was
now vacant. By the significations of their marks, we understood
that they had marched a party of fifty warriors against the Sioux,
and killed four men and four women, which were represented by
images carved out of pine or cedar. The four men were painted and
put in the ground to the middle, having above ground those parts
which are generally concealed. By their sides were four painted
poles, sharpened at the end, to represent the women. Near this were
poles with deer skins, plumes, silk handkerchiefs, &c. also a circular
hoop of cedar with something attached representing a scalp. Near
each lodge they had holes dug in the ground, and boughs ready to
cover them, as a retreat for their women and children, if attacked by
the Sioux or other enemies.
Wednesday, 1st January, 1806.—Passed six elegant bark canoes, on
This I crossed on my return from the head of the Mississippi in February, it is in
32" N. latitude.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. , 73
the bank of the river, which had been laid up by the Chippeways;
also a camp which we conceived to have been evacuated about ten
days. My interpreter came after me in a great hurry, conjuring me
not to go so far a-head, and assured me that if the Chippeways en-
countered me without an interpreter, party, or flag, they would cer-
tainly kill me. But, notwithstanding this admonition, I went on se-
veral miles farther than usual, in order to make discoveries, conceiving
the savages not to be so barbarous or ferocious, as to fire on two men
(I had one with me) who were apparently coming into their country,
trusting to their generosity; and knowing that if we met only two or
three we were equal to them, 1 having my gun and pistols and my
companion his musket. Made some extra presents for new year's day.
Thursday, 2d January.—Fine warm day; discovered fresh signs of
Indians. Just as we were encamping at night, my centinel informed
us, that some Indians were coming full speed upon our trail or
track. I ordered my men to stand by their guns carelessly. They
were immediately at my camp, and saluted the flag by a discharge of
three pieces, when four Chippeways, one Englishman, and a French-
man, of the north-west, presented themselves. They informed us,
that some women having discovered our trail gave the alarm ; and
not knowing but that it might be that of their enemies, they had de-
parted to make a discovery; they had heard of us and respected our
flag. Mr. Grant, the Englishman, had only arrived the day before
from lake de Sable; from which he had marched in one day and a
half. I presented the Indians with half a deer, which they received
thankfully, for they had discovered our fires some days before, and
believing us to be Sioux, had not dared to leave tijeir camp. They
returned, but Mr. Grant remained all night. - .. ,.. ; '.' .
Friday, 3d January.—My party marched early, but I returned with
Mr. Grant to his establishment on the Red Cedar lake, attended by
one corporal. When we came in sight of Mr. Grant's house, I observed
the flag of Great Britain flying, and felt indignant, and cannot say
x,
74 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
what my feelings would have excited me to, had he not informed me
that it belonged to the Indians. -This was not much more agreeable
to me. After explaining to a Chippeway warrior, called Curly Head,
the object of my voyage, and receiving his answer, that he would re-
main tranquil until my return, we ate a good breakfast for the
country: departed and overtook my sledges just at dusk : killed owe
porcupine: distance advanced sixteen miles.
From Pine river to Red Cedar lake, the pine ridges are interrupted
by large bottoms of elm, ash, oak, and maple; the soil would
be very proper for cultivation. From the appearance of the ice,
which was firm and equal, I conceive there can be but one ripple in
this distance. Red Cedarlakelies on the eastern side of the Mississippi,
at the distance of six miles from it, and is nearly equally distant from
the river de Corbeau, and lake de Sable. Its form is an oblong, and
may be ten miles in circumference.
Saturday, 4th January.—We made twenty-eight points on the river.
The shores here consisted of broad good bottom, with the usual tim-
ber. In the night I was awakened by the cry of the centinel,
calling repeatedly to the men; at length he vociferated, with an
oath, "will you let the lieutenant be bwrned to death." This immedi-
ately aroused me; at first I seized my arms, but looking around, I
Saw my tents in flames. The men flew to my assistance, and we
tore them down, but not until they were entirely ruined. This, with
the loss of my leggings, mockinsons, socks, &c. which I had hung up to
dry, was no trivial misfortune in such a country, and on such a voy-
age. But I had reason to thank God, that the powder, three small
casks of which I had in my tent, did not take fire; if it had, I must
certainly have lost all my baggage, if not my life.
Sunday, 5th January.—Mr. Qrant promised to overtake me yester-
day, but has not yet arrived. Distance advanced twenty-seven
miles.
Monday, 6th January.—-Bradley and myself walked irp thirty-one
OP THE MISSISSIPPI. &
points, in hopes of discovering Sandy Jake; but finding a near cut of
twenty yards for ten miles, and being fearful the sledges would miss it,
we returned twenty-three points before we found our camp. They
had made only eight points : met two Frenchmen of the North-West
company, with about one hundred and eighty pounds on each of
their backs, with rackets on ; they informed me Mr. Grant had gone
on with the Frenchman, - Snow fellall day, and was three feet deep;
spent a miserable night.
Tuesday, 7th January.—Made but eleven miles, and then were ob-
liged to send a-head and make fires every three miles. Notwith-
standing which, the cold was so intense that some of the men had
their noses, others their fingers, and others their toes frozen, before
they felt the cold sensibly: had a very severe day's march. , .
Wednesday, 8th January.— Conceiving I was at no great distance
from Sandy lake, I left my sledges, and with corporal Bradley took my
departure for that place, intending to send him back the same even-
ing. We walked on very briskly.,until near night, when we met a
young Indian* one of those who had visited my camp near Red
Cedar lake; I endeavoured to explain to him, that it was my wish
to go to Sandy lake U?at eves ing. lie returned with .me, ujutjl w^
came to a trail thjit led across the wood a; this he, signified was
a near course. This I pursvued with"' him,; and shortly after
found nvysqlf at-f Chjppevfay encampment, to whieh I believe the
friendly savage had enticed me with an expectation that I would
tarry all night, knowing that it was too late to make the la^ke in any
tolerable time. But upon my refusing to stay, 'he put us in the right
road.. -We arrived at the plage, where the track teft the Mississippi,
at dusk, when ,we traversed about two leagues 6( af!\Yil(,lern;ess i with-
out, any very gteat^ifficu'ty J and at length struck the shpre of Sanity,
lake,,oxer a branch of which.pur course lay. The; ^ipw having co-
vered the trail .made ty the Frenchmen, whq bad-passed. before with
the rackets, I was fearful of losing, ouiselv^w ^he. }fll«3; the couse-
L2
76 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
quence of which can only be conceived by those who have been ex*
posed on a lake or naked plain, during a dreary night of January, in
latitude 47°, and the thermometer below 0. Thinking that we could
observe the bank of the other shore, we kept a straight course, and
some time after discovered lights, and on our arrival were not a
little surprised to find a large stockade. The gate being open, we
entered, and proceeded to the quarters of Mr. Grant, where we were
treated with the utmost hospitality.
Thursday, pth January.—Marched the corporal early in order that
bur men might receive assurances of our safety and success. He
carried with him a small keg of spirits, a present from Mr. Grant.
The establishment at this place was formed twelve years since, by
the North West company, and was formerly under the charge of a
Mr. Charles Brusky. It has obtained at present such regularity, as
to permit the superintendant to live tolerably comfortable. They
have horses, which they procured from Red river, of the Indians;
raise plenty of Irish potatoes, catch pike, suckers, pickerel, and
white fish in abundance. They have also beaver, deer and moose,
but the provision they chiefly depend upon is wild oats, of which
they purchase great quantities from the savages, giving at the rate
of about one dollar and a half per bushel; but flour, pork, and salt,
are almost interdicted to persons not principals in the trade. Flour
sells at half a dollar, salt a dollar; pork eighty cents, sugar half a
dollar; coffee and tea four and a half dollars per pound. The sugar
is obtained from the Indians, and is made from the maple tree.
From Red Cedar lake to lake de Sable, on the eastern shore
you meet with Muddy river, which discharges itself into the Missis-
sippi by a mouth of twenty yards wide, and bears nearly NE.
We then met with Pike river on the west, about seven miles below
Sandy lake, and bears nearly north, up which you ascend with
canoes four days' sail, and arrive at a wild rice lake which you pass
through, and enter a small stream and ascend it two leagues, then •
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 77
cross a portage of two acres into a lake of seven leagues in circum-
ference, then two leagues of a river into another small lake. From
thence you descend the current north-east into Leech lake. The
banks of the Mississippi are still bordered by pines of the
different species, except a few small bottoms of elm, lyme, and maple.
The game scarce, and the Aborigines subsist almost entirely on the
beaver, with a few moose, and the wild rice or oats.
Sandy lake (or the discharge of the said lake) is large, but is only
six miles in length from the lake to its confluence with the Missis-
sippi. The lake is about twenty-five miles in circumference, and
has a number of small rivers running into it, one of those entitled
to particular attention, viz. the river Savannah, which, by a portage
of three miles and three-quarters, communicates with the river St.
Louis, which empties into lake Superior at the Fond du Lac, and
is the channel by which the North West Company bring all their
goods for the trade of the upper Mississippi. Game is very scarce
in this country.
Friday, 10th January.—Mr. Grant accompanied me to the
Mississippi, to mark the place for my boats to leave the river. This
was the first time I marched on rackets. I took the course of the
Lake river from its mouth to the lake. Mr. Grant fell through the
ice with his rackets on, and could not have got out without assist-
ance^
Saturday, 11th January.—Remained all day within quarters.
Sunday, 12th January—Went out and met my men about six-
teen miles distant. A tree had fallen on one of them and hurt him very
much, which induced me to dismiss a sledge, and put the loading on
the others.
_ Monday, 13th January.—After encountering much difficulty, we
arrived at the establishment of the North West Company on Sandy
lake, a little before night. The ice being very bad on the lake river,
owing to the many springs and marshes in the neighbourhood* one
TS VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
sledge fell through. My men had an excellent room furnished them,,
and were presented with potatoes andy/7/e.* Mr. Grant had gone to
an Indian lodge to receive his credits.
Tuesday, 11th January.—Crossed the lake to the north side, that
I might take an observation; found the latitude 46° & .20" N.
Surveyed that part of the lake. Mr. Grant returned from, thfj
Indian lodges. They brought a quantity of furs, and eleven beaver
carcasses.
Wednesday, 1oth January.—Mr. .Grant and myself made the tour
of the lake, with two men whom I had for attendants. I found it to
be much larger than could be imagined at a view. My men sawed
stocks for the sledges, which 1 found it necessary to construct after,
the manner of the country. On our march met an Indian coming,
into the fort; his countenance expressed no little astonishment when
told who I was, and from whence I had come, for the people iu the
country acknowledge that the savages hold in greater veneration the
Americans than any other white people. They say of us, when,
alluding to warlike achievements, that "we are neither Frenchmen
nor Englishmen, but white Indians."
Thursday, 16th January.—Laid down Sandy lake, &c. A young
Indian, whpm I had engaged to attend me as a guide to lake Sang
Sue, or Leech lake, arrived from the woods. f.
Friday, 17th January.—Employed in making sledges,-)- after the
manner of the country. Two other Indians arrived from the woocjs,
Engaged in writing.
Saturday, 18th January.—Busy in preparing my baggage, Sec. for
my departure for Leech lake.
Sunday, ipth January—Employed as yesterday. Two men, of
* A cant term for a dram of spirits.
, t These sledges a»e made of a single plank, turned *ip at cue end like a fiddle head, and
the baggage is lashed on ^n bags pr sacks. .,."'.• i •. .. • * .
OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
the North West Company arrived from Lake Superior, with letters;
one of which was for their establishment at Athapusco, and had
been since last May on their route. While at this place I ate
roasted beavers, dressed in every respect as a pig is usually dressed
With us; it was excellent; I could not discern the least taste of wood.
I also ate boiled Moose's head; when well boiled, I consider it equal
to the tail of the beaver; in taste and substance they are much
alike.
Monday, 20th January.—The men with their sledges took their de-
parture about two o'clock; shortly after, I followed them. We
encamped at the portag6 between the Mississippi and Leech lake
river. SHOW fell in the night.
Tuesday, 21st January—Snowed in the morning, but we crossed
about nine o'clock. I had gone on a few points, when I was over-
taken by Mr. Grant, who informed me that the sledges could not get
along in consequence of the water being on the ice; he sent his men
forward. We returned and met the sledges, which had advanced one
mile. We unloaded them, sent eight men back to the fort with
whatever might be denominated extra articles, but in my hurry sent
my salt and ink. Mr. Grant encamped with me, and marched
early in the morning.
Wednesday, 22d January,—Made a pretty good day's journey.
My Indian, came up about noon. Distance advanced twenty
iniles.
Thursday, 23d January Marched about eleven miles. Forgot
my thermometer, having hung it on a tree; sent Boley back five
miles for it. My young Indian and myself killed eight partridges;
took him to live with me.
Friday, 24th January.*—At our encampment this night (Mr. Grant
had encamped on the night of the same day he left me) it was thret*
days' march for us. In the evening the father of his girl came td
my camp, and staid all night; he appeared very friendly, ind
80 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
very communicative, but having no interpreter, we made but poor
speed in conversation. It was late before the men came up.
Saturday, 25th January.—Travelled almost all day through the
lands, and found them much better than usual. Boley lost the
Sioux pipe stem, which I carried along for the purpose of making
peace with the Chippeways; I sent him back for it; he did not
return until eleven o'clock at night: the weather was very warm;
thawing all day. Distance advanced forty-four points.
Sunday, 26th January.—1 left my party in order to proceed to a
house, or lodge, of Mr. Grant's, on the Mississippi, where he was to
tarry until I overtook him. Took with me my Indian, Boley, and
some trifling provision. The Indian and myself marched so fast,
that we left Boley , on the route, about eight miles from the lodge.
Met Mr. Grant's men on their return to Sandy lake, having evacu-
ated the house this morning, and Mr. Grant having marched to
Leeph lake. The Indian and myself arrived before sun-set.
Passed the night very uncomfortably, having nothing to eat, nor
much wood, nor any blankets. The Indian slept soundly. I cursed
his insensibility, being obliged to content myself over a few coals
all night. Boley did not arrive.
Monday, 27th January.—My Indian rose early, mended his mock-
insons, then expressed by signs something about his son and the
Frenchman we had met yesterday; conceiving that he wished to
send a message to his family, I suffered him to depart. After he
had left me I felt the curse of solitude, although in fact he was no
company. Boley arrived about ten o'clock; he said that he had
followed us till some time in the night, when believing that he could
not overtake us, he had stopped and made a fire, but having no axe
to cut wood, he was near freezing. He met the Indian, who made
him signs to proceed. I spent the day in putting my gun in order,
mending my mockinsons, &c. Provided plenty of wood, but still
found it cold with but one blanket. I can only account for the
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 61
gentlemen of the North West Company contenting themselves in
the wilderness for ten or fifteen years, and some of them for twenty
years, by the attachment they contract for the Indian women. It
appears to me, that the wealth of nations would not induce me to
remain secluded from the society of civilized mankind, surrounded
by a savage and unproductive wilderness, without books or other
sources of intellectual enjoyment, or being blessed with the culti-
vated and feeling mind of a civilized female companion.
Tuesday, 28th January.—Left our encampment at a good hour;
unable to find any trail, I passed through one of the most dismal
cypress swamps I ever saw, and struck the Mississippi at a small
lake. I observed Mr. Grant's tracks going through it; found his
mark of a cutoff, agreed on between us: took it and proceeded very
well, until we came to a small lake where the trail was entirely
hidden, but after some search on the other side, found it againt
We then passed through a dismal swamp, on the other side of which
I found a large lake, at which I was entirely at a loss as no trail
could be seen. I struck for a point about three miles distant, where
we found a Chippeway lodge, of one man, his wife, and five children,
and one old woman. They received us with every mark that dis-
tinguished their barbarity; such as setting their dogs on ours, trying
to thrust their hands into our pockets, &c. but we convinced them
that we were not afraid, and let them know we were Cheweckomen
(Americans), when they used us more civilly. After we had arranged
a camp as well as we could, I went into the lodge; they presented
me with a plate of dried meat. I ordered Miller to bring about two
gills of liquor, which made us all good friends. The old Squaw gave
me more meat, and offered me tobacco, which not, using, I did not
take. I gave her an order upon my corporal, for one knife, and half
a carrot of tobacco. Heaven clothes the lilies and feeds the ravens,
and the same Almighty Providence protects and preserves these
creatures. After I had gone out to my fire, the old man came
M
82 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
proposed to trade beaver skins for whiskey; meeting with a refusal
he left me, when presently the old woman came out with a beaver
skin; she also being refused, he again returned to the charge, with
a quantity of dried meat, (this or any other I should have been glad
to have had) when I gave him a peremptory refusal; then all further
application ceased. It really appeared, that with one quart of
whiskey I might have bought all they were possessed of. This
night proved remarkably cold; I was obliged to sit up nearly the
whole of it. Suffered much with cold and want of sleep.
Friday, 31st January.—Took my clothes into the Indians' lodge
to dress, and was received very coolly; but by giving the man a
dram, unasked, and his wife a little salt, I received from them
directions for my route. Passed the lake or morass, and opened on
meadows, through which the Mississippi winds its course for nearly
fifteen miles. Took a straight course through them to the head,
when I found we had missed the river; made a turn of about two
miles and regained it. Passed a fork, which I supposed to be lake
Winipic, making the course N.W.; the branch we took was on Leech
lake branch, course S.W. and W. Passed a very large meadow or
prairie; course west; the Mississippi was here only fifteen yards
wide. Encamped about one mile below the traverse of the meadow.
Saw a very large animal, which, from its leaps, I supposed to have
been a panther; but if it was one, it was twice as large as those on
the lower Mississippi. He evinced some disposition to approach:
I lay down (Miller being in the rear) in order to entice him to come
near, but he would not. The night remarkably cold. Some spirits
which I had in a small keg congealed to the consistence of
honey.
Saturday, 1st February.—Left our camp pretty early; passed a
continued train of prairie, and arrived at Leech lake at half past
two o'clock.
I will not attempt to describe my feelings on the accomplishment
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 89
of my voyage; for this is the main source of the Mississippi. The lake
Winipic branch is navigable from thence to Red Cedar lake, for the
distance of five leagues, which is the extremity of the navigation.
I crossed the lake twelve miles to the establishment of the Nortk
West Company, where we arrived about three o'clock. We found
all the gates locked, but upon knocking were admitted, and received
with marked attention and hospitality by Mr. Hugh M'Gillia,
who provided for us a good dish of coffee, biscuit, butter and cheese,
for supper.
In ascending the Mississippi from Sandy lake you first meet with
Swan river on the east, which bears nearly due east, and is naviga-
ble for bark canoes ninety miles to Swan lake; you then meet with
the Meadow river which falls in on the east, and bears nearly east
by north, and is navigable for Indian canoes one hundred miles:
you next in ascending, meet with a very strong ripple, and an ex-
pansion of the liver where it forms a small lake. This is three mites
below the falls of Packagama, and from which the noise of the
shoot may be heard. The course of the rivet ait the falls was,
N. ?0p W. and jost below the rirer is a cfuarter of a mile in width,,
but above the shoot not more than twenty yards. The water thus
collected runs down a. flat rock which has an elevatioa off about
thirty degrees. Immediately above the fall is a small island of
about fifty yards in circumference, covered with sap-pine. The
portage, which is on the east (or north) side, » mo' more than two
hundred yards, and) by no means difficult. These fatts, in point of
consideration as an impediment to the navigation, stand next to
the falls of St Anthony, from the source of the river to the Gulph'of
Mexico. The banks of tile Mississippi to the Meadow river have ge~
nerally been timbered by the pine, pinenet, hemlock, sap-pine, or the
aspen tree. From thenee it winds, through high grass meadows"
(oc savanna's^ with, the pi nc s.\vamps at a distance,, appearing to cast
a deeper gloom on the borders. From the falls, in ascending you
M 2
84 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
pass the lake Packagaraa on the west, celebrated for its great
production of wild rice, and next meet with the Deer river on the
east. The extent of its navigation is unknown. You next meet with
the river la .Crosse on the eastern side which bears nearly north, and
has only a portage of one mile to pass from it into the lake Winipic
branch of the Mississippi. We next came to what the people of
that quarter call the forks of the Mississippi: the right branch of
which bears north west, and runs eight leagues to lake Winipic,
which is of an oval form about thirty-six miles in circumference.
From lake Winipic the river continues five leagues to upper Red
Cedar lake, which may be termed the upper source of the Mississippi.
The Leech lake branch, bears from the forks south west, and runs
through a chain of meadows. You pass Muddy lake which is scarcely
any thing more than an extensive marsh of fifteen miles circum-
ference; the river bears through it nearly north, after which it again
turns to the west.. In many places this branch is not more than ten
or fifteen yards in width, although fifteen or twenty feet deep; from
this to Leech lake the communication is direct, and without any
impediment. This is rather considered as the main source, although
the Winipic branch is navigable the greatest distance. To this place
the whole face of the country has the appearance of an impenetra-
ble morass, or boundless savannah: but on the borders of the lake
are some oak, and large groves of sugar-maple, from which the
traders make sufficient sugar for their consumption the whole year.
Leech lake communicates with the river de Corbeau by seven
portages, and the river des Feuilles also with the Red river by the
Otter-tail lake on the one side, and by Red Cedar lake, and other
small lakes to Red lake on the other. Out of these small lakes and
ridges rise the upper waters of the St. Lawrence, the Mississippi and
*Red River, the latter of which discharges itself into the ocean by
* Red river discharges itself into Hudson's bay, by lake Winipic and Nelson's river.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 85
lake Winipic and Hudson's bay. All these waters have their upper
sources within one hundred miles of each other, which, I think, plainly
proves this to be the most elevated part of the north-east continent
of America. But we must cross what are commonly termed the
Rocky mountains, or a spur of cordeliers, previous to our finding
the waters whose currents run westward, and pay tribute to the
western ocean.
In this quarter we find moose, a very few deer and bears, but a
vast variety of fur animals of all descriptions.
Sunday, 2d February.—I remained all day within doors. In the
evening sent an invitation to Mr. Anderson, who was an agent of
Mr. Dickson; and also for some young Indians, at his house, to come
over and breakfast in the morning.
Monday, 3d February.—Spent the day in reading, proposing some
queries to Mr. Anderson; and preparing my young man to return
with a supply of provisions to my party.
Tuesday, 4th February.—Miller departed this morning. Mr.
Anderson returned to his quarters. My legs and ancles were so
swelled that I was not able to wear my own clothes, and was oblig-
ed to borrow some from Mr. M'Gillis.
Wednesday, 5th February.—One of Mr. M'GilhYs clerks had
been sent to some Indian lodges, and was expected to return in four
days, but had now been absent nine. Mr. Grant was despatched in
order to find out what had become of him.
Thursday, 6th February.—My men arrived at the fort about four
o'clock. Mr. M'Gillis asked, if I had any objections to his
hoisting their flag, in compliment to ours. I made none, as I had
not yet explained to him my ideas. In making a traverse of the
lake, some of my men had their ears, some their noses, and others
their chins frozen.
Friday, 7th February.—I remained within doors, my limbs being
86 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
stiH very much swelled; addressed a letter to Mr. M'Gillis on the
subject of the N. W. company's trade in this quarter.*
Saturday, 8th February.—Took the latitude, and found it to be
4r. 16'. 13".
Sunday, 9th February.—Mr. M'Gillis and myself paid a visit to
Mr. Anderson, who resided at the west end of the lake; found him
eligibly situated as to trade, but his houses bad. I rode in a cariole
for one person, constructed in the following manner: boards planed
smooth, turned up in front about two feet, coming to a point; and
about two and a half feet wide behind, on which is fixed a box,
covered with dressed skins painted; this box is open at the top,
but covered in front about two-thirds of the length; the horse ia
fastened between the shafts, the rider wraps himself up in a buffalo
robe, sits flat down, having a cushion to lean his back against: thus
accoutred, with a fur cap, &c. he may bid defiance to the wind and
weather.
Upon, our retura, we found that some of the Indians had already
icturned from the hunting camps; also Monsieur Roussand, the
gentleman supposed to have been killed by the Indians; his arrival
with Mr. Grant diffused a general satisfaction through the fort.
Monday, 10th February.—Hoisted the American flag in the fort:
the English Jack still flying at the top of the flag-staff, I directed
the Indians and my rifle-men to shoot at it: they soon broke the
iron pin to which it was fastened, and brought it to the ground.
Tuesday, llth February*—The Sweet, Buck, Burnt, &c. arrived;
all chiefs of note, but the former in particular, a venerable old man;
from him I learnt that the Sioux occupied this ground, when (to
use his own phrase,) he was made man, and began to' hunt; that
• See die letter, with Mr. M'Gillis'a answer; at the end of this Journal.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
they occupied it the year that the French missionaries were killed
at the river Packagama. The Indians now flocked in to us.
Wednesday, 12th February. — Bradley and myself, with Mr.
M'Gillis and two of his men, left Leech lake at ten o'clock, and
arrived at the house at Red Cedar lake at sun-set, a distance of thirty
miles. My ancles were much swelled, and I was very lame.
From the entrance of the Mississippi to the strait is called six
miles, along a south-west course; from thence to the south-end,
south thirty east, four miles; about two and a half from the north
side to a large point. This may be called the upper source of
the Mississippi, being fifteen miles above little lake Winipic, and
the extent of canoe navigation only two leagues to some of the
Hudson's-bay waters.
Thursday, 13th Febntary.—We were favoured with a beautiful
day; took the latitude and found it to be 47*. 42'. 4(f. N. It was
at this place Mr. Thompson made his observations in 1798, from
which he determined that the source of the Mississippi was in 47°.
38*. I walked about three miles back into the country; one of our
men marched to lake Winipic, and returned by one o'clock for
the stem of the Sweet's pipe, a matter of more consequence in his
affairs with the Sioux than the diploma of many an ambassador.
We feasted on white fish roasted on two iron grates, fixed hori-
zontally in the back of the chimney—the entrails left in the fish.
Friday, 14th February.—Left the house at nine o'clock. It be-
comes me here to do justice to the hospitality of our hosts, one Roy,
a Canadian, and his wife a Chippeway squaw; they relinquished
for our use the only thing in the house that could be called a bed;
and attended us like servants; nor could either of them be persuaded
to touch a mouthful until we had finished our repasts.
We made the garrison about sun-down, having been drawn at
least ten miles in a sledge, by two small dogs, which were loaded
88 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
with two hundred pounds weight, and went so fast, as to render it
difficult for the men with snow-shoes to keep up with them. The
chiefs asked permission to dance the calumet dance, which I
granted.
Saturday, 15th February.—The Flat-mouth, chief of the Leech
lake village, and many other Indians arrived. Received a letter
from Mr. M'Gillis, in answer to mine of the 7th. Noted down
the heads of my speech, and had it translated into French, in order
that the interpreter, might be perfectly master of his subject.
Sunday, 16th February.—Held a council with the chiefs and war-
riors at this place, and of Red lake; but it required much patience,
coolness, and management to obtain the object 1 desired, viz. That
they should make peace with the Sioux, deliver up their medals
and flags; and that some of the chiefs should attend me to St. Louis.
As a proof of their agreeing to the peace, I directed that they should
smoke out of the wabasha's-pipe, which lay on the table; they all
complied, from the head chief to the young soldier. They generally
delivered up their flags with a good grace, except the Flat-mouth, who
said he had left his at his camp, three day's march distant, and pro-
mised to deliver them up to Mr. M'Gillis, to be forwarded: with re-
spect to their accompanying me on my return, the old Sweet thought it
most proper to return to the Indians of Red lake, Red river, and Rainy
lake river; the Flat-mouth said, it was necessary for him to restrain
his young warriors. The other chiefs did not think themselves of
consequence sufficient to offer any reason for not going with me to
St. Louis, a journey of between two and three thousand miles,
through hostile tribes of Indians. I then told them, "That I was
sorry to find that the hearts of the Sauteurs of this quarter were
so weak; that the other nations would say,—What! are there no sol-
diers at Leech, Red, and Rainy lakes, who had the heart to carry
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 89
the. calumet of their chief to their father ?" this had the desired effect.
The Buck and Beau, two of the most celebrated young warriors,
rose and offered themselves to me for the embassy; they were accept-
ed, and adopted as my children, and I was installed their father.
Their example animated the others, and it would have been no
difficult matter to have taken a company; two however were suffi-
cient. I determined that it should be my care never to make them
regret the noble confidence placed in me, for I would have pro-
tected their lives with my own. The Beau is brother to the Flat-
mouth. I gave my new soldiers a dance and a dram; they attempted
to get more liquor, but a firm and peremptory denial convinced
them I was not to be trifled with.
Monday, 17th February,—The chief of the land brought in his
flag, and delivered it up. I now made arrangements to march my
party the next day. Instructed the Sweet how to send the parole
to the Indians of Red-river, &c. Put my men through the manual,
and fired three blank rounds, all of which not a little astonished
the Indians. I was obliged to give my two new soldiers each a
blanket, a pair of leggings, scissors, and a looking-glass.
Tuesday, 18th February,—We began our march for Red Cedar lake
about eleven o'clock, with a guide provided by Mr. M'Gillis;
we were all equipped with snow-shoes, and marched off amidst the
acclamations and shouts of the Indians, who had remained to see
Us take our departure. Mr. Anderson promised to follow with
letters; he arrived about twelve o'clock and remained all nigh,t. He
concluded to go down with me, to see Mr. Dickson.
Wednesday, 19th February.—Bradley, Mr. Le Rone, the two young
Indians and myself left Mr. M'Gillis at ten o'clock, crossed Leech
lake in a south-east direction, twenty-fourmiles. Mr. M'Gillis's hos-
pitality deserves to be particularly noticed: he presented me with
his dogs and cariole, valued in this country at two hundred dollars.
One of the dogs broke out of his harness, and' we were not able to
N
90 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
catch him. again; the other poor fellow was obliged to draw the
whole load, at least a hundred and fifty pounds: this day's march
was from lake to lake.
Thursday, 20th February.—I allowed my men to march at least
three hours before me, notwithstanding which, as it was cold and
the road good, my sledge-dog brought me a-head of all by one
o'clock. Halted for an encampment at half past two o'clock: our
courses this day were first south-east six miles, than south eighteen
miles; almost all the day over lakes, some of which were six miles
across. Encamped at the bank of Sandy lake; the Indians were
out hunting.
Friday, 21st February.—Travelled this day generally south, passed
but two lakes; Sandy lake, which is of an oblong form, north and south
four miles, and one other small one. The Indians, at the instigation
of Mr. Le Rone, applied for him to accompany us; I consented
that he should go as far as Red Cedar lake. I then wrote a note to
Mr. M'Gillis upon the occasion: after Reale had departed with
it, Le Rone disclosed to me that it was his wish to desert the N. W.
Company entirely, and to accompany me. To have countenanced
for a moment any thing of this kind, would I conceived have been
inconsistent with every principle of honour; I therefore obliged him
to return immediately. We then had no guide, our Indians not
knowing the road: our course lay through woods and bad brush fif-
teen miles.
$jt Saturday, 22d February.—Our course a little to the south of east,
through woods not very thick: arrived at White-fish lake at eleven
o'clock, and took an observation; my party crossed the lake, and
encamped between the two lakes: this may be called the source of
the Pine river. At this place has been one of the North-West Com-
pany's establishments, at the north-east side. It was a square
stockade of about fifty feet, but at this time nearly all consumed
by fire. There was owe standing over the point on the eastern side.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 91
Sunday, 23d February.—My two Indians, Boley, and myself, with
my sledge and dog, left the party, under an idea that we should
make Red Cedar lake. We marched hard all day, without arriving
at the Mississippi. Our course was nearly due east until near night,
when we changed more south. Took no provision nor bedding: my
Indians killed fifteen partridges, some nearly black, with a red
mark over their eyes, called the Savannah partridge. We were over-
taken about noon by two of Mr. Anderson's men, Mr. Anderson
himself not being able to come. Distance advanced, thirty miles.
Monday, 24th February.—We started early, and after passing
over one of the worst roads in the world, found ourselves on a lake
about three o'clock, took its outlet and struck the Mississippi about
one mile below the canoes mentioned on the first of January, by
which I knew where we were. Ascended the Mississippi about four
miles, and encamped on the western side: our general course this day
was nearly south, when it ought to have been south-east. My young
warriors were still in good heart, singing and shewing every wish to
keep me cheerful. The pressure of my racket-strings brought the
blood through my socks and mockinsons, from which the pain 1.
marched in may be imagined.
Tuesday, 25th February.—We marched and arrived at the Red
Cedar lake before noon: found Mr. Grant, and De Breche, (chief
of Sandy lake,) at the house. This gave me much pleasure, for I
conceive Mr. Grant to be a gentleman of. as much candour as any
with whom I had made an acquaintance in this quarter; and the
chief (de Breche,) is reputed to be a man of better information
than any of the Sauteurs. ,
Wednesday, 26th February.—Sent one of Mr. Grant's men down,
with a bag of rice to meet my people; he,found them encamped on
tlie Mississippi. Wrote a letter to Mr. Dickson on the subject of
the Fols Avoins, also some orders to my sergeant. This evening
N 2
VOrAGE TO THE SOURCE
had a long conversation with de Breche; he informed me that a
string of wampum had been sent among the Chippeways, he thought
by the British commanding officer at St. Joseph. He appeared to
be a very intelligent man.
Thursday, 2?th February.—The chief called the White-fisher and
seven Indiana, arrived at the house; my men also arrived at twelve
o'clock.
Friday, 28th February.—We left Red Cedar lake about eleven
o'clock, and' went to where the canoes before-mentioned were seen.
My young Indians remained behind under the pretence of waiting
for the chief de Breche, who returned to Sandy lake for his flag
and medals, and was to render himself at my fort with Mr. Grant,
about the fifteenth of the following month.
Saturday, 1st March.—Departed early; passed our encampment
of the 31st of December; at nine o'clock A. M., passed Pine river
at twelve o'clock, our encampment of the 30th December, at
three o'clock, and our encampment of the 29th November, just
before we came to our present, which we made on the point of the
Pine ridge, below. Distance advanced, forty-three miles.
Sunday, 2d March.—Passed our encampment of the 28th of De-
cember, at ten o'clock, A. M.; that of the 27th of December, at
one o'clock, P. M. and encamped at that of the 25th December.
Found wood nearly sufficient for our use. This morning despatched
Bradley to the last place at which we had buried a barrel of flour,
to thaw the ground and hunt. This day a party of Indians struck
the river behind Bradley, and before us, but left it ten miles above
the Raven river.
Monday, 3d March.—Marched early; passed our Christmas en-
campment at sun-rise. I was a-head of my party in my cariole.
Soon afterwards I observed a smoke on the western shore ; I hallooed,
and some Indians appeared upon the bank. I waited until my inter-
OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
preter came up, when we went to the camp: they proved to be a
party of Chippeways, who had left the encampment the same day
we had: they presented me with some mast meat, which I gave
my sledge-dogs; they then left their camp, and accompanied us
down the rivet. We passed our encampment of the 24th December,
at nine o'clock, that of the 23d at ten o'clock, a/nd of the 22<1 at
eleven o'clock'; here the Indians crossed on the western shore. We
arrived at the encampment of the 21st December, where we had a
barrel of flour, at twelve o'clock: I here found corporal Meek, and'
another man from the fort, from whom I heard that the men were
all well. They confirmed the account of a Sioux having fired at a sen-
tinel and run off, but had promised to deliver himself up ia.the Spring.
The corporal informed me, that the sergeant had used all the fine
hams and saddles of venison, which I had preserved to present to
the commander in chief and other friends; that he had made away
with all the whiskey, including a keg I had designed for my own use,
having publicly sold it to the men, together with a barrel of pork;
that he had broken open my trunk, and sold some articles out of it;
traded with the Indians, given them liquor, &c. and this too, con-
trary to my most pointed and particular directions. Thus, after I
had used, in going up the river with my party, the strictest eco-
nomy, living upon two pounds of frozen venison a day, in order that
we might have provision to carry us down in the Spring; this fellow
had been squandering away the rlour, pork, and liquor, during the
winter, while we were starving with hunger and cold. I had saved
all our corn, bacon, and the meat of six deer, and left them at Sandy
lake, with some tents, my mess-boxes, salt, tobacco, &c. all of
which we were obliged to sacrifice, by not returning the same route
we had ascended; and we had consoled ourselves under this loss,
by the flattering idea, that we should find at our little fort, a hand-
some stock preserved: how mortifying the disappointment!' We
94 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
raised our barrel of flour, and came down to the mouth of a little
river on the east, which we had passed on the 21st December. The
ice was covered with water.
Tuesday, 4th March.—Proceeded early; passed our encampment of
the 20th December, at sun-rise, arrived at that of the 19th at nine
o'clock; here we had buried two barrels: made a large fire to thaw
the ground. Went on the prairie and found Sparks, one of my
hunters, and brought him to the river at the Pine camp; passed on
opposite to our encampment of the 13th December, and encamped
where Sparks and some men had an old hunting camp, and where
the Fresaie (a Chippeway chief,) had surrounded them.
Wednesday, 5th March.—Passed all the encampments between
Pine creek and the fort, at which we arrived about ten o'clock: I
sent a man on a-head, to prevent the salute I had before ordered
by letter; this I had done under the idea that the. Sioux chiefs
would accompany me. I found all well; confined my sergeant:
about one o'clock Mr. Dickson arrived, with the Killeur Rouge, his
son, and two other Sioux men, with two women, who had come
up to be introduced to the Sauteurs, whom they expected to be
with me.
Thursday, 6th March.—Thomas, the Fols Avoins' first chief, ar-
rived with ten others of his nation; I made a serious and authorita-
tive representation to him of my opinion of the conduct of the
Shawonoes, another chief of his nation, who had behaved ill.
I had also a conference with the Killeur Rouge and his people. At
night, wrote to Messrs. Grant, M'Gillis and Anderson^
Friday, 7th March.—Held conversations with the Indians. Tho-
mas the Fols Avoin chief assured me, that he would interest himself
in obliging the Puants to deliver up the men who had recently com-
mitted murders on the Ouisconsin and Rock rivers; and if neces-
sary would make it a national quarrel on the side of the Americans.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 95
This Thomas is a fine fellow, of a very masculine figure, noble and
animated delivery, and appears to be very much attached to the
Americans. The Sioux informed me that they would wait until I
had determined rny affairs in this country, and then bear my words
to the river St. Peter's.
Saturday, 8th March.—The Fols Avoin chief presented me with
his pipe, to give to the Sauteurs on their arrival, with assurances of
their safety on their voyage, and his wish for them to descend the
river. The son of the Killeur Rouge presented me with his pipe,
to give to the Sauteur Indians, on their arrival; to make them
smoke, and assure them of their friendly disposition, and that he
would wait to see them at Mr. Dickson's. Thomas made a formal
complaint against a Frenchman, by name Greignor, who resides
.at Green bay; who he said abused the Indians, and beat them
without provocation: I promised to write to the commanding officer
or Indian agent at Michillimackinac, upon the subject. The In-
dians, with Mr. Dickson, all took their departure. Hitched my
dogs in the sledge, who drew one of the Indian women down the
ice to the no little amusement of the others. Went down the river
in order to cut a mast; felled a pine mast thirty-five feet long, for my
large boat at the prairie.
This day my little boy broke the cock of my gun: few trifling
misfortunes could have happened which I should have regretted
more, as the wild fowl just began to return on the approach of
Spring,
Sunday', 9th March.—I examined into the conduct of my sergeant,
and found that he was guilty of the offences charged to him, and pu-
nished him by reduction. Visited the Fols Avoins lodges, and re-
ceived a present of some tallow. One of my men arrived from the
hunting camp with two deer.
Monday, 10th March.—Was visited by the Fols Avoin chief and se-
veral others of the nation. This chief was an extraordinary-hunter;
96 VOYAGTE TO THE SOURCE
to instance his power, be had killed forty elk and a bear in one day,
chasing the former from dawn to eve. We were all busied m prepar-
ing 'oars, gtfns, masts, &c. against the breaking up of the ice which
"was opening fast.
Tuesday, 1lth March.—In a long conversation with Reynard, he
professed not to 'believe in an hereafter; but he believed that the
•world would all be drowned by water, at some future period; he
asked how it was to be repeopled? Injustice to his nation, however,
I must observe, that his opinion was singular.
Wednesday, 12th March.—Continued o«r preparations; had a fine
chase with deer on the ice; killed one. Since our return I had re-
ceived eight deer from our camp.
Thursday, 13th March.—Received two deer from my hunting
camp. Went out with my gun on the opposite side of the river; as-
cended the mountain which borders the prairie, and on the point of
it found a stone, on which some Indians had sharpened their knives,
and ft war club half finished. From this spot you may extend the
eye over vast prairies, with scarcely any interruption but clumps of
trees which at a distance appeared like mountains. From two or
three of which, the smoke rising in the air denoted the habitation of
the wandering savage, and too often marked them out as victims to
$heir enemies. From the cruelty of these I have had the pleasure, in
the course of the winter, and through a wilderness of fifteen hundred
miles extent, to preserve them, as peace has reigned through my me-
diation, from the Prairie des Chiens to the lower Red river. If a su-
baltern, with twenty men, at so great a distance from the seat of go-
vernment, could effect so important a change in the minds of these
•savages, what might not a great and independent power effect, if, in-
stead of blowing up the flames of discord, it exerted its influence in
the sacred cause of peace?
When I returned to the fort, I found the Fols Avoin chief, who
intended to remain all night. He told me, that near the conclusion
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 97
of the revolutionary war, his nation began to look upon him as a
warrior; that they received a parole from Michillimackinac, on
which he was despatched with forty warriors; that on his arrival he
was requested to head them against the Americans. To which he
replied, " We have considered you and the Americans as one peo-
ple; you are now at war; how are we to decide who has justice on
their side? besides, you white people are like the leaves on the trees
for numbers. Should I march with my forty warriors to the field of
battle, they with their chief would be unnoticed in the multitude,
and would be swallowed up as the big waters embosom the small ri-
vulets which discharge themselves into them. No, I will return to
my nation, where my countrymen may be of service against our
red enemies, and their actions be renowned in the dance of our
nation."
Friday, 14th March,—Took the latitude by an artificial horizon,
and measured the river: received one deer and a half from my
hunting camp. The ice thinner.
Saturday, 15th March.—This was the day fixed upon by Mr.
Grant and the Chippeway warriors for their arrival at my fort, and I
"was all day anxiously expecting them; for I knew, should they not
accompany me down, the peace, partially effected between them and
the Sioux, would not be on a permanent footing: from this I
take them to be neither so brave nor so generous as the Sioux, who,
in all their transactions, appear to be candid and brave, whereas the
Chippeways are suspicious, consequently treacherous, and of course
cowards.
Sunday, 16th March.—Received three deer from our hunting
camp; examined trees for canoes.
Monday, 17th March.—Left the fort with my interpreter, and Roy,
in order to visit the Fols Avoin chief, who was encamped, with six
lodges of his nation, about twenty miles below us, on a little river
which empties into the Mississippi on the western side, a little above
o
38 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
Clear river. On o«r way down, killed one goose, wounded
and a deer that the clogs had driven into an air hole; hung
on the trees : arrived at the creek; took out on it; ascended three or
four miles on the bank, and descended on the other: killed another
goose ; struck the Mississippi below : encamped at our encampjuent
«f the — of October, when we ascended the river; ate our goose tor
supper. It snowed all day, and at night a very severe storm arose.
It. may be imagined that we spent a very disagreeable night, without
shelter,and with but one blawicet each.
Tuesday? 18th March.—We marched, determined to find the
lodges. Met an Indian, -whose track we pursued through almost
impenetrable woods^ for about two miles ami a lialf to the camp.
H,ere there was one of the finest sugar cauips I almost ever saw; the
whole of the timber being sugar maples. We were conducted to the
chiefs lodge, who received us in the patriarchal style. He pulled off
my leggings and naockiosons, p-utnie ia the best pdace in his lodge.,
and offered me dry clothes. He then presented us with syrups of
the maple to drink, and asked whether I preferred eating beaver,,
swan, elk, &s deer? uj><>n Bay giving the preference to the first, a,
ifljge .kettle was filled with it by Ins wife, of which soup was auide.
This being thickened with flour, we had what I then thought a deli-
cious repast. After we had refreshed ourselves, he asked whether
we would visit his people at the other lodges? having complied, we
were presented in each with something to eat; by some with a bowl
of sugar, by others beavers' tails, and other esteemed delicacies. After
making this tour, we returned to the chiefs lodge, and found a birth
provided for each of us, of good soft bear skins nicety spread, and
on mine there was a a large feather pillow. I must not here omit to
mention an anecdote, which serves to characterise more particularly
the manners of these people. 'I'his, in the eyes of the contracted mo-
faJwt, would deform my hospitable host into a .monster of laberUoism;
feut by a liberal mind would be considered as arising (nun tin- hearty
OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
generosity of the wild savage. In the course of the day, observing a
ring on one of my fingers, he enquired if it was gold? he was told it
was the gift of one, with whom I should be happy to be at that time.
He seemed to think seriously, and at night told my interpreter, " that
perhaps his father (as they called me) felt much grieved for the want
of a woman; if so, he could furnish him with one." He was
answered, that with us each man had but one wife, and that I con-
sidered it strictly my duty to remain faithful to her. This he thought
strange (he himself having three) and replied, " that he knew some
Americans at his nation who had half a dozen wives during the
winter." The interpreter observed, that they were men without cha-
racter; but that all of our great men had each but one wife. The chief
acquiesced, but said he liked better to have as many as he pleased.
This conversation was without any appear to me, as the interpreter
knew my mind, and answered immediately ; it did not therefore ap*
pear as a refusal of the chiefs offer.
Wednesday, 19th March.—This morning purchased two baskets of
sugar, for the amount of which I gave orders on Mr. Dickson. After
feasting upon a swan, took our leave for camp: it had snowed all night,
and still continued snowing. Finding my two companions unable to
keep up, I pushed on and arrived at the river. When I reached the
place where I had hung up my first goose, I found that the ravens and
eagles had not left a feather, and there was at the time feasting upon
the deer, a band sufficient to have carried it away; they had picked
its bones nearly clean; what remained I gave to my dogs. I next
stopped at the place where I expected to find the last goose, but could
see nothing of it; at length I found it hidden under the grass and
snow, where some animal had concealed it, after eating off its head
and neck. I carried it to the fort, where I arrived about an hour be-
fore snn-set. I despatched immediately two men with rackets to
meet the interpreter and Le Roy. They arrived about two hours
after dark; some men also arrived at the hunting camp with the deer.
o2
100 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
The snow ceased falling about one hour after dark: it was the
deepest that had fallen so low down the river this winter, being
nearly two feet thick.
Thursday, 20th March.—Despatched nine men to my hunting
camp, from whence I received two deer. Cloudy almost all day, but
the water rose fast over the ice.
Friday, 21st March—Received a visit from the Fols Avoin chief,
called the Shawonoes, and six young men. I informed him without
reserve, the news I had heard of him at Red Cedar lake, and of the
letter I had written to Mr. Dickson. He denied the accusation in toto,
and on the contrary said, that he presented his flag and two medals
to the Chippeways, as an inducement for them to descend in the
spring, and gave them all the encouragement in his power. His party
was much astonished at the language I held with him. But from his
firm protestations, we finally parted friends. He informed me that
a camp of Sauteurs were on the river, waiting for the chiefs to come
down, from which it appears they were still expected. At night,
after the others had gone, Thomas arrived and staid all night. We
agreed upon a hunting party for the next day, and also promised to
pay the old Shawonoes a visit. He informed me, that he had set out
the other day to follow me, but finding the storm so very bad, had
returned to his wigwam. The thermometer was lower this day than
it had been at any time here, previously to my commencing my
voyage.
Saturday, 22d March.—Ten of my men arrived from my hunting
camp, with four deer and a half. Thomas departed : sent a man with
him to his traps, from which he sent me two beavers.
Sunday, 23d March.—Agreeably to my promise, after breakfast I
departed with Miller and my interpreter, to pay a visit to the old
chief Shawonoes. We arrived at his camp in about two hours. On
our way we met the Fols Avoin, called the Chein Blanc, who had
visited my post, previously to my starting up the river, at whose
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 101
house we stopped when passing. We were received by the old
Shawonoes at his lodge, with the usual Indian hospitality, but very
different from the polite reception given us by Thomas. Charlevoix and
others have all borne testimony to the personal beauty of this nation.
From my own observation, I had sufficient reason to confirm their
information as it respected the males; for they were all straight and
well made, about the middle size; their complexions generally fair
for savages, their teeth good, their eyes large, and rather languish-
ing: they have a mild but independent expression of countenance,
that charms at first sight: in short, they would be considered any-
where as handsome men. But their account of the women, I never
before believed to be correct. In this lodge there were five very hand-
some females when we arrived; and about sun-down, a pair arrived,
whom my interpreter observed were the handsomest couple he had
ever seen, and in truth they were; the man being about five feet
eleven inches, and possessing in an eminent manner all the beauties
of countenance which distinguish his nation. His companion was
twenty-two years old, having dark brown eyes, jet hair, and an ele-
gantly proportioned neck, her figure by no means inclining to cor-
pulency, as they generally are after marriage. The man appeared to
attach himself particularly to me, and informed me his wife was the
daughter of an American, who passing through their nation about
twenty-three years before, remained a week or two possessed of her
mother, and that she was the fruit of this amour, but his name they
were unacquainted with. I had brought six biscuits with me, which
I presented to her on the score of her being rny countrywoman,
which raised a loud laugh; and she was called the Bostonian during
the rest of my stay. I found them generally extremely hard to deal
with; my provision being only a little venison. I wished to procure
some bear's oil; for a few gallons of which I was obliged to pay a
dollar per gallon, and then they wanted to mix tallow with it. They
also demanded ten dollars for a bear skin (the most beautiful, I confess*
100 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
I ever saw), which I wanted to mount a saddle. Indeed I was in-
formed lhat traders ia this country sometimes give as much as six-
teen dollars for rare skins, for they are eminently superior to any
thing of the kind on the lower Mississippi, and sell in Europe for
double the price.
In the evening we were entertained with the calumet and dog
dance; also another dance, in which some of the men struck a
post and tcfld some of their war exploits; but as they spoke in
Menomene, my interpreter could not explain it. After the dance
we had the feast of the dead (as it is called) at which, every two or
three were served with a pan or vessel full of meat, and when all
were ready there was a prayer, after which the eating commenced;
when it was expected we would eat up our portion entirely, being
careful not to drop a bone, but to gather up all, and put them in
the dish: we were then treated with soup. After the eating was
•linished, the chief again gave an exhortation, which concluded the
<?eremony. I am told they then gather up all the fragments, and
throw them into the water, lest the dogs should get them. Burning
them is considered sacrilegious. In this lodge were collected at one
time forty-one persons, great and small, seventeen of whom were
capable of bearing arms; besides dogs without number.
Monday, 24th March.-—Rose early, and with my dog sledge ar-
rived at the fort before ten o'clock. In the afternoon Mr. Grant
arrived with de Breche and some of his young men: saluted him
with fourteen rounds. I now found that my two young warriors of
Leech lake had been brave enough to return to their homes. Mr.
Grant and myself sat up late in conversation.
1\itsday^ 25th March.—Sent an Indian to Thomas's lodge, and a let-
ter to Mr. Dickson. It snowed and stormed all day.
Wednesday, 26th March.—Thomas, the Fols Avoin chief, arrived
frith seven of his men, and the old Shawonoes and six of his party.
I had them all to feed as well as my own men. At night I gave
OF THE MISSISSIPPI, • 103
them leave to dance in the garrison, which they did until ten
o'clock; but once or twice told me, that if I was tired of them tfi«
dance should cease. The old Shawoooes and the White Dog of the
Fols Avoins rehearsed tbeir exploits, which we could not understand;
but de l&eche arose and said "1 once killed a Sioux, and cut of
his head with svuch a spear as I now present to this Winebago," at
the same ticne presenting one to a Winebago, with whom the
CiupqaewajB were at war; this was considered by the latter as a
great honour. My huaaters went out, bait killed nothing*
Thursday, •2?tb March.—In the morning the Qiippeway chief
niaJc a speech, and presented his pipe to me ta beer to the Sioux,
on which were seven strings of Wampum, as authority from seven
heads of the Chipipeways, either to conclude peace or to make war:
as hi; liad. chosen the former, he sent his pipe to the Sioux, and re-
quested uie to inform them, that lie and his people would encamp
at the mouth of the Ravien river the ensuing summer, where he
would see the United States flag flying, as a proof of his pacific
disposition. The Fols Avoin chief then spoke arwi said, "His nation'
** had been rendered small by its enemies; ©nly a remnant was T*OW
left, but yet they could boast of not being slaves; for rather than
suffer their women and children to be taken, they themselves kifled
theip. But that their father (as they called me) had travdlad fer,
and 'had taken much pains to prevent the Sioux and Cbippeways
from killing one another; that he thought none could be so un-^
generous as to neglect listening to the words of their father: that
he would report to the Sioux the pacific disposition of the Sauteurs,
and hoped the peace would be firm and lasting." I then in a few
words informed de Bueche, "That I would report te the Sioux- all
he had said, and that I should ever feel pleased and grateful that
the two nations had laid aside the tomahawk at my request. That-
I thanked the Eels Avoin chief for his good wishes and the parole
which he had given th/e Sauteurs," After all this, each chief
104 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
furnished with a kettle of liquor, to drink each others health; and
de Breche's flag (which I had presented to him) was displayed in
the fort. The Fols Avoins then departed, at which I was by no
means displeased; for they had already consumed all the dry meat
I had laid aside for my voyage, and I was apprehensive that my
hunters would not be able to provide another supply.
Friday, 28th March.—Late in the afternoon Mr. Grant and the
Sauteurs took their departure, calculating that the Sioux had left
the country. Taking with me one of my soldiers, I accom-
panied them to the lodge of the Shawonoes, where we stayed all
night. The Fols Avoins and Sauteurs had a dance, at which I
left them and went to sleep. Feasted on elk, sugar and syrup.
Previously to the Indians' departure from my post, I de-
manded the chiefs medal and flags; the former he delivered, but
with a bad grace, the latter he said were in the lands where I left
lake de Sable, instructed I suppose, by the traders, and that he
could not obtain them. It thundered and lightened this day.
Saturday 29th March—We all marched in the morning. Mr.
Grant and party for Sandy lake, and I for my hunting camp. I
gave him my spaniel dog: he joined me again after we had sepa-
rated about five miles. I arrived at my hunting camp about eight
o'clock in the morning, and was informed that my hunters had gone
to bring in a deer: they shortly after arrived with it, and about
eleven o'clock we all went out hunting; saw but few deer, out of
which I had the good fortune to kill two. On our arrival at camp
found one of my men at the garrison with a letter from Mr.
Dickson. The soldier informed me that one Sioux had arrived with
Mr. Dickson's men. Although much fatigued, as soon as I had
eaten something, I took one of my men and departed for the gar-
rison one hour before sun-down. The distance was twenty-one
miles, and the ice very dangerous, being rotten, and the water over
it nearly a foot deep: we had sticks in our hands, and in many
OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
places run them through the ice: it thundered and lightened, with
rain. The Sioux, not finding the Sauteurs, had returned imme-
diately.
Sunday, 30th March,—Wrote to Mr. Dickson and despatched his
(nan. I found myself very stiff from my yesterday's march. We
HOW caulked our boats, as the ice had every appearance of break*
ing up in a few days. Whilst thus on the wing of eager expecta-
tion, every day seemed an age.
. Monday, 31st March.—Finished caulking my boats; the difficulty
with me then, was, what I should get to pitch the seams with? We
were all day as anxiously watching the ice, as a lover would be the
arrival of the priest who was to unite him to his beloved. Some-
times it moved a little, but soon closed: an Indian and his woman
crossed it, when the poles which they held in their hands were
forced through in many places. The provision to which I waa
obliged to restrict myself and men, viz. two pounds of fresh ve-
nison per day, was scarcely sufficient to keep us alive. Though I had
not an extraordinary appetite, yet I was continually hungry.
Wednesday, 2d April.—Went out and killed one deer and two par-
tridges. The ice began to move opposite the fort at the foot of the
rapids, but continued dammed up below. Received six bean? from
my hunting camp. Launched our canoe and brought her down.
Thursday, 3d April.*-Sent one man down to examine the river,
another to the camp, and took two men myself over the bills on the
other side of the Mississippi to hunt. In the course of the day I
killed a swan and a goose, and we certainly should have killed QHQ
or two elk, had it not been for the Sledge dogs; for we lay con-
cealed on the banks of Clear river, when four of these animals came
and threw themselves into it on the opposite shore, and were swimming
directly toward* us, when our dogs bounced into the water, and
caused them to turn back: we then fired on them, but they carried
off all the lead we gave them, and we could not cross the river, unless
p
106 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
we rafted (it being bank full) which would have detained us too long
a time. In the evening it became very cold, and we passed rather
an uncomfortable night.
Friday, 4th April.—Took our course homewards: I killed one
large buck and wounded another. We made a fire and ate our
breakfast; arrived at the fort at two o'clock, P. M. when I was in-
formed that the river was still shut below at the cluster of islands.
Received some bear meat, and one deer from the camp.
Saturday, 5th April.—In the morning despatched two men down
the river to see if it was open: my hunters arrived from the camps.
Followed my boats with our canoes, and launched them; they made
considerable water. The young Shawonoes arrived in my canoes
from above, with about one thousand pounds of fur, which he depo-
sited in the fort; then returned and informed me that the river was
still shut about ten miles below.
Sunday, 6th April.—Sent my perroque with sergeant Bradley and
two men to descend the river, and see if it was yet open: they
returned in the afternoon, and reported all clear. I had previous-
ly determined to load and embark the next day, and hoped to find
it free by the time I arrived.
The Shawonoes arrived and encamped near the stockade; he
informed me, that his nation had determined to send his son down
in his stead, as he declined the voyage to St. Louis. All hearts
and hands were now employed, in preparing for our departure: in
the evening the men cleared out their room, and danced to ihe violin
and sang songs until eleven o'clock; so rejoiced was every heart at
leaving this savage wilderness. .-: •<)
Monday, 7th April.—Loaded our boats, and departed at forty mi-
nutes past ten o'clock: at one o'clock arrived at Clear river, tyhere
we found my canoe and men. Although I had partly promised the
Fols Avoin chief to remain one. night, yet time was too precious,
and we put off: passed the grand rapids, and arrived at Mr. Dick-
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 107
son's just before sun-down; we were saluted with three rounds.
At night he treated all my men with a supper and a dram. Mr. D.
Mr. Paulize, and myself, sat up until four o'clock in the morning.
Tuesday, 8th April.—Were obliged to remain this day, on account
of some information to be obtained here. I spent the day in making
a rough chart of St. Peter's, writing notes on the Sioux and other
nations, settling the affairs of the Indian department with Mr.
Dickson, for whose communications, and those of Mr. Paulize, I
am infinitely indebted: made every necessary preparation for an
early embarkation.
Wednesday, 9th April.—Rose early in the morning and com-
menced my arrangements. Having observed two Indians drunk
during the night, and finding upon enquiry, that the liquor had
.been furnished them by a Mr. Gregnon or Mr. Yennesse, I sent my
interpreter to them, to request they would not sell any strong liquor
to the Indians, upon which Mr. Yennesse demanded the restrictions
in writing, which were given to him: on demanding his license from
him, it amounted to no more, than merely a certificate that he had
paid the tax required by a law of the Indian territory, on all re-
tailers of merchandize; but it was by no means an Indian license;
however, I did not think proper to go into a more close investigation.
Last night; was so cold, that the water was covered with floating
cakes of ice of a strong consistence.
After receiving every mark of attention from Messrs. Dickson
and Paulize, I took my departure at eight o'clock. At four P. M.
arrived at the house of ,Mr. Paulize, twenty-five leagues distant,
to whose brother I had a letter. I was received with politeness by
him and a Mr. Veau, who had wintered along-side of him, on the
very island at which we had encamped on the night of the of
October, in ascending. Some time after having left this place, we
discovered a bark canoe a-head; we gained on it for some time, when
it turned a point about three-hundred yards before us; and on our
p 2
108 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
turning it also, it had entirely disappeared. This excited my curiosity.
I stood up in the barge, and at last discovered it turned up in the
grass of the prairie; but after we had passed a good gun shot, three
savages made their appearance from under it, launched it in the
river and followed, not knowing of my other boats which had just
turned the point immediately upon them. They then came on, and
upon my stopping for the night at a vacant trading house, stopped
there also, and addressed me, "Saggo Commandant," or "your
servant captain." I directed my interpreter to inquire their motives
for concealing themselves? they replied, that their canoe leaked,
und that they had turned her up to discharge the water. This I did
not believe, and as their conduct was equivocal, I received them
rather sternly; I gave them, however, a dram and a piece of bread;
they then re-embarked and continued down the river. '.Their con-
duct brought to mind the visit of the Fils de Penichon to Mr.
Dickson, during the winter; one principal cause of which was, that
he wished to inform me, that the seven nien whom I mentioned to
have met "when crossing the St. Anthony, had since declared that
they would kill him, for agreeing to the peace between the Sioux
and Sauteurs; and for being instrumental in preventing them from
their revenge for their relations killed by the Sauteurs in August,
1805^ and Thomas, the Fols Avoin chief, for the support he seemed
disposed to give me. This information had not made the impression
it ought to have done, coming from so respectable a source as the
first chief of the village; but the conduct of those fellows made me
take it into consideration, and I appeal to God and my country,
whether self-preservation would not have justified me in destroying
them wherever I found them? This my men would have done, if ordered,
amidst a thousand of them, and I should have been supported by the
chiefs of the St. Peters, at die mouth of which were three hundred
Warriors awaiting my arrival. I dreaded the consequences of
meeting the rascal who had fired at my centinel last winter, for fear
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 109
the impetuosity of my conduct might not be approved of by my
government, who did not so intimately know the nature of these
savages.
This day, for the first time, we saw the commencement of vegeta-
tion, yet the snow was a foot deep in some places.
Thursday, 10th April.—Sailed at half past five o'clock; about
seven passed Rum river, and at eight were saluted by six or seven
Jodges of Fols Avoins, amongst whom was a clerk of Mr. Dickson's.
These people had wintered on Rum river, arid were waiting for their
chiefs and traders to descend, in order to accompany them to the
Prairie des Chiens. Arrived at the falls of St. Anthony at ten
o'clock: carried over all our loading and the canoe to the lower
end of the portage, and hauled our boats up on the bank. I pitch-
ed my tents at the lower end of the encampment, where all the men
lodged except the guard, whose quarters were above. The appear-
ance of the falls was much more tremendous than when we ascend-
ed: the increase of water occasioned the spray to rise much higher,
and the mist appeared like clouds. How different my sensations now,
from what they were when at this place before! At that time not
having accomplished more than half my route, whiter fast approach-
ing, war existing between the most savage nations in the country I
Jaad to pass, my provisions greatly diminished, and having but a poor
prospect of additional supplies; many of my men sick, and the others
not a little disheartened, and our success in this arduous undertak-
ing very doubtful; just upon the borders of the haunts of civilized
man; about to launch into an unknown wilderness, for ours was
the first canoe that had ever crossed this portage; were circumstances
sufficient to rob my breast of contentment and ease: but now we have
accomplished every wish, and peace reigns throughout this vast extent!
We have returned thus far on our voyage without the loss of a single
man, and have hopes of soon being blessed with the society of oar
relations and friends.
110 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
The river was this morning covered with ice, which continued
floating all day. The shores still barricaded with it.
Friday, 1lth April.—Although it snowed very hard, we brought
over both boats, and descended the river to the island at the entrance
of the St. Peter's. I sent to the chiefs and informed them, I had
something to communicate to them. The Fils de Penichon imme-
diately waited on me, and informed me that he would provide a
place for the purpose: about sun-down I was sent for, and intro-
duced into the council-house, where I found a great many chiefs of
the Sussitougs, Gens de Feuille, and the Gens de Lac. The
Yanctongs had not yet come down: they were all waiting for my
arrival. There were in all about one hundred lodges, or six hundred
people; we were saluted on our crossing the river with ball as usual.
The council-house was formed of two large lodges, capable of con-
taining three hundred men. In the upper were forty chiefs, and as
many pipes set against the poles, along side of which I had the
.Sauteurs' pipe arranged. I then informed them, in a short detail, of
my transactions with the Sauteurs, but my interpreters were not
.capable of making themselves understood; I was therefore obliged
to omit mentioning every particular relative to the rascal who fired
on my centinel, and of the other delinquents who had broken the
Fols A veins' canoes, and threatened my life: the interpreters how-
ever informed them, that I wanted some of their principal chiefs to
go to St. Louis, and that those who thought proper might descend
.to the prairie, where we would give them more explicit informa-
tion.
They all smoked put of the Sauteurs' pipes, excepting three, who
were painted black, and were some of those who had lost their re-
lations last winter. I invited the Fils de Penichon, and the son of
the Killeur Rouge to come over and sup with me, when Mr. Dick-
son and myself endeavoured to explain what I intended to have
said to them, could I have made myself understood; that at the
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. i11
prairie we would have all things explained; that I was desirous of
making a better report of them than captain Lewis could from their
treatment of him. The former of these savages was the person who
remained with his men around my post all last winter, and had
treated my men so well.
Saturday, 12th April.—Embarked early: although my interpreter
had been frequently up the river, he could not tell me where the
cave, spoken of by Carver, could be found; we carefully sought
for it, but in vain. At the Indian village a few miles above St. Peter's,
we were about to pass a few lodges, but on receiving a very parti-
cular invitation to come on shore, we landed, and were received in
a lodge where they presented us with sugar, and some other
articles. I gave the proprietor a dram, and was about to depart,
when he demanded a kettle of liquor: on being refused, and after
I had left the shore, he told me that he did not like the arrange-
ments, and that he would go to war this summer: I directed the
interpreter to tell him, that if I returned to the St. Peter's with troops,
I would settle that affair with him. On our arrival at the St. Croix,
I found the Petit Corbeau with his people, and also Messrs. Frazer
and Wood.
We had a conference; when the Petit Corbeau made many apo-
logies for the misconduct of his people: he represented to us the
different ways in which his young warriors had been inducing him
to go to war; that he had been much blamed for dismissing his party
last fall, but was determined to adhere as far as lay in his power to
our instructions; that he thought it most prudent to remain here and
restrain the warriors. He then presented me with a beaver robe and
a pipe, and his message to the General, that he was determined
to preserve peace and make the road clear, as a remembrance of
his promised medal. I made him a reply calculated to confirm him
in his good intentions, and assured him that he should not be the
less remembered by his father, although not present.
VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
I was informed, that notwithstanding the instructions of license,
and my particular request, Mr. Murdock Cameron had taken liquor,
and sold it to the Indians on the river St. Peter's, and that his part-
ner below had been equally imprudent. I pledged myself to pro-
secute them according to law, for they have been the occasion of
great confusion, and of much injury to the other traders. This day
met a canoe of Mr. Dickson's, loaded with provision, under the
charge of Mr. Anderson, brother of the Anderson at Leech lake.
He politely offered me any provision he had on board, (for which
Mr. Dickson had given me an order) but not now being in want,
I did not accept of any. This day for the first time I observed the
trees beginning to bud, and indeed the climate seemed to have
changed very materially since we had passed the falls of St. An-
thony.
Sunday', 13th April.—We embarked after breakfast, accompanied
by Messrs. Frazer and Wood, wind strong a-head; they outrowed
us: their's was the first boat or canoe we had met with on the voyage
able to do this, but then they were doubly manned and light.
We arrived at the band of the Ailc Rouge at two o'clock, when
we were saluted as usual: we held a council here, when he spoke
with more detestation of the conduct of the rascals, at the mouth
of the St. Peter's, than any man I had yet heard. He assured me,
speaking of the fellow who had fired on my centinel, and threat-
ened to kill me, that if I thought it requisite he should be put to
death; but that as there were many chiefs above, with whom he
wished to speak, he hoped I would remain one day, when all the
Sioux would be down, and I might have the command of one thou-
sand men of them; that I would probably think it no honour, but
that the British used to flatter them they were proud of having them
for soldiers. I replied in general terms, and assured him that it was
not for the misconduct of two or three delinquents, that I meant to
pass over all the good treatment I had received from the Sioux nation;
OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
and added, that in council I would explain myself: as to the Indian
who fired at my centinel, I stated that had I been near, the Sioux nation
would never have been troubled with him, for I would have killed him
on the spot; but that my young men did not do it, apprehensive that
I might be displeased. I then gave him the news of the Sauteurs,
and afterwards stated, that as to remaining one day, it would be of
no service, that I was much pressed to arrive below, as my General
expected me, my duty called me, and the state of my provi*
sions demanded the utmost expedition; that I should be happy to
oblige him, but that my men must eat. He replied, that Lake
Pepin being yet shut with ice, if I went on and encamped on it, I
should not be supplied with provisions; that he would send out all
his young men the next day, and that if the other bands did not
arrive, he would depart the day after with me. In short, after much
conversation, I agreed to remain one day, knowing that the lake
was closed, and that we could proceed only nine miles if we went
on.
This appeared to give general satisfaction; I was invited to dif-
ferent feasts, and entertained by one, whose father was created a
chief by the Spaniards. •*•l
At this feast I saw a man (called by the French, Nez Corbeau,
and by the Indians, the Wind that Walks) who was formerly the
second chief of the Sioux, but being the cause of the death of one
of the traders, seven years since, he had voluntarily relinquished the
dignity, and frequently requested to be given up to the whites. He
bad now determined to go to St. Louis and deliver himself up, where
he said they might put him to death: his long repentance, and the great
confidence which the nation reposed in him, would probably operate
to protect him from the punishment which the crime merited; but
as it had been committed long before the United States had assumed
its, authority over the district, and as no law of theirs could bear
upon it, unless an ex post facto one were passed, I conceive it would
Q
'VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
not now be noticed: I did not think proper however to inform him
of my opinion. I here received a letter from Mr. Rollet, partner of
Mr. Cameron, with a present of some brandy, coffee and sugar: I
hesitated about receiving these articles from the partner of the man
J intended to prosecute.
Their amount being trifling however, I accepted of them, offering
him payment. I assured him that the prosecution arose from a sense
of duty, and not from any personal prejudice.
My canoe did not come up in consequence of the head wind >
«ent out two men in a canoe to set fishing lines; the boat overset,
and had it not been for the timely assistance of the savages, who
carried them into their lodges, undressed them, and treated them
•with.the greatest humanity and kindness, the men must inevitably
have perished. At this place I was informed that the Indian spoken
of as having threatened my life, had actually cocked his gun to
shoot at me from behind the hills, but was prevented by the others.
Monday, 14th April,—Was invited to a feast by the Nez Corbeau;
his conversation was interesting and shall be detailed hereafter: the
other Indians had not yet arrived. Messrs Wood, Frazer and myself,
ascended a high hill called the Barn, from which we had a view of
Jake Pepin, the valley through which the Mississippi by numerous
channels wound itself as far as the St. Croix, the Cannon river, and
the lofty hills on each side.;
Tuesday, 15th April.—Arose very early and embarked about sun-
rise, much to the astonishment of the Indians, who were fully
prepared for the council, when they heard I had put off. However
after some conversation with Mr. Frazer, they acknowledged it was
agreeably to what I had said, that I would sail early, and that they
could not blame me. I was very positive in my word, for I found
it by far the best way to treat the Indians. The Aile Rouge had a
beaver robe and a pipe to present to me, but was obliged for the
present tt> keep them.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
We passed through lake Pepin with the barges; the canoe being
obliged to lay by did not come on: stopped at a prairie on the
right bank, about nine miles below lake Pepin: went out to
view some hills which had the appearance of old fortifications. In
these hollows I discovered a herd of elk; took out fifteen men, bat
we were not able to kill any. Mr. Frazer came up and passed on
about two miles; we encamped together; neither Mr. Wood's nor
my canoe arrived. Snowed considerably.
Wednesday, 16th April.—Mr. Frazer's canoes and my boats sailed
about one hour: waited some time, expecting Mr. Wood's barges
and my canoe, but hearing a gun fired just above our encampment,
we were induced to make sail. Passed the Aile prairie, also " the
mountain that soaks in the water," and the prairie de la Crosse,
and encamped on the western shore, a few hundred yards below where
J had before encamped in September in ascending: killed a goose
flying; shot at some pigeons at our camp, and was answered from
behind an island with two guns; we returned them, and were replied
to by two more. This day the trees appeared in bloom: snow might
still be seen on the sides of the hills. Distance descended seventy-
five miles. ;:•
Thursday, 17th April.—Put off pretty early and arrived at Waba-
sha's band at eleven o'clock, where I remained all day for the chief,
but he alone of all the hunters remained out all night; left some
powder and tobacco for him. The Sioux presented me with a kettle
of boiled meat and a deer. I here received: information that the
Puants had killed some white men below. Mr. Wood's and -my
canoe arrived. r orr.;" ( <: '-"i
Friday, 18th April.—Departed from our encampment very early;
stopped to breakfast at the Painted rock; arrived at the Prairie des
Chiens at two o'clock, and were received by crowds on the bank.
Q* •)
116 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
Took up my quarters at Mr. Fisher's; ray men received a present
of one barrel of pork from Mr. Campbell, a bag of biscuit, twenty
loaves of bread, and some meat from Mr. Fisher. A Mr. Jearreau
from Cahokia is here, who embarks to morrow for St. Louis; I
wrote to general Wilkinson by him. I was waited upon by a num-
ber of the chiefs, Reynards, Sioux, Des Moines and others.
The Winebagoes were here, intending, as I was informed, to deliver
up some of the murderers to me. Received a great deal of news
from the states of Europe, both civil and military.
Saturday, 19th April.—Dined at Mr. Campbell's in company with
Messrs. Wilmot, Blakely, Wood, Rollet, Fisher, Frazer, and Jearreau.
Six canoes arrived from the upper part of the St. Peter's, with the
Yanctong chiefs from the head of that river; their appearance was
indeed savage, much more so than any nation I had yet seen.
Prepared my boat for sail: gave notice to the Puants that I had
business to transact with them the next day. A band of the Gens
du Lac arrived. Took into my pay as interpreter, Mr. Y. Rein-
ville.
Sunday, 20th April.—Held a council with the Puant chiefs, and
demanded of them the murderers of their nation; they required
till to-morrow to consider the subject.
This afternoon they had a great game of the cross on the prairie,
between the Sioux on the one side, and the Puants and the Rey-
nards on the other. The ball is made of some hard substance and
covered with leather; the cross sticks are round, with net-work, and
handles three feet long. The parties being ready, and bets agrfeed
upon, (sometimes to the amount of some thousands otf dollars)
the goals are erected on the prairie at the distance of half a mile;
the ball is thrown up in the middle, and eaeh party strives to ,$rive
it to the opposite goal; and when either party gains the first rubber,
which is» drawing it quite round the post, the ball is again taken to
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. . 117
the centre, the ground changed, and the contest renewed; and this
is continued until one side gains four times, which decides the bet.
It is an interesting sight to behold two or three hundred naked
savages contending on the plain, who shall bear off the palm of
victory; as he who drives the ball round the goal receives the shouts
of his companions, in congratulation of his success. It sometimes
happens, that one catches the ball in his racket, and depending on
his speed, endeavours to carry it to the goal; and when he finds
himself too closely pursued, he hurls it with great force and dexte-
rity to an amazing distance, where there are always flankers of both
parties ready to receive it: it seldom touches the ground, but is
sometimes kept in the air for hours before either party can gain the
victory.—In the game which I witnessed the Sioux were victorious,
more, I believe, from the superiority of their skill in throwing the
ball, than from their SAviftness, for I thought the Puants and Rey-
nards the fleetest runners. I made a written demand of the magis-
trates to take depositions concerning the late murders. Had a pri-
vate conversation with Wabasha.
Monday, 21st April.—Was sent for by la Feuille, and had a long
and interesting conversation with him, in which he spoke of the
general jealousy of his nation towards their chiefs; and although he
k&e,w it might occasion some of the Sioux displeasure, he did not
.hesitate to declare, that he looked on the Nez Corbeau as the man
of most sense in their nation; and that he believed it would be ge-
nerally acceptable, if he were reinstated in his rank. Upon my
return, I was sent for by the Red Thunder, chief of the Yanctongs,
the most savage band of the Sioux. He was prepared with the
most elegant pipes and robes I ever saw. He briefly declared, that
white blood had never been shed in the village of the Yanctongs, even
when rum was permitted: that Mr. Murdock Cameron had arrived
-*t his village last autumn; that he had invited him to eat, given him
corn as a bird; that he (Cameron), had informed him of the prohibition
118 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
of rum, and was the only person who afterwards sold it in the
village.
After this I had a council with the Puants. Spent the evening
with Mr. Wihnot, one of the best informed, and most gentlemanly
man in the place.
Tuesday, 22d April.—Held a council with the Sioux and Puants,
the latter of whom delivered up their medals and flags: prepared to
depart to-morrow.
Wednesday, 23d April.—After closing my accounts, and conclud-
ing other business, at half past twelve o'clock I left the prairie, and
at the lower end of it was saluted by seventeen lodges of Puants.
Met a barge, by which 1 received a letter from Mrs. Pike. Further
on, met one batteau and one canoe of traders; passed one trader's
camp; arrived at Mr. Dubuque's at ten o'clock at night: found
some traders encamped at the entrance, with forty or fifty Indians.
I obtained some information from Mr. D. and requested him to
write to me on certain points. After we had boiled our victuals, I
divided my men into four watches, and put off; wind a-head: ob-
served this day, for the first time, the half-formed leaves on the trees.
Thursday, 24th April.—In the morning used our oars until teii
o'clock, and then floated while breakfasting: at this time two barges,
one barque, and two wooden canoes, passed us under full sail; by
one of which I sent back a letter to Mr. Dubuque, that I had for-
gotten to deliver. Stopped at dark to cook supper; after which,
rowed under the windward shore, expecting we could make head-
way with four oars; but were blown on the lee shore in a few mo-
ments, when all hands were summoned, and we again with difficulty
made to windward: came to, placed one centry on my bows, and
all hands beside went to sleep.
It rained in the night, and before morning the water overflowed my
bed in the bottom of the boat, having no cover, or any extra accom-
modations, as it might have retarded my voyage. The wind very
hard a-head.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 119
Friday, 25th April.—Obliged to unship our mast to prevent its
rolling overboard with the swell. Passed the first Reynard village at
twelve o'clock; counted eighteen lodges: stopped at the prairie in
descending, on the left, about the middle of the rapids, where there
is a beautiful cove or harbour. We found three lodges of Indians
here, but none of them came near us. Shortly after we had left
this place, we observed a barge under sail, with the United States1
flag, which, upqn our being seen, put to shore on the large island,
about three miles above Stony river, where I also landed. It proved
to be captain Many, of the artillery, who was in search of some
Osage prisoners amongst the Sacs and Reynards. He informed me,
that at the village of Stony Point the Indians had evinced a strong
disposition to commit hostilities; that he was met at the mouth of
the river by an old Indian, who said that all the inhabitants of the
village were in a state of intoxication, and advised him to go up
alone: this advice, however, he had rejected. That when they
arrived there, they were saluted by the appellation of the Bloody
Americans, who had killed such a person's father, and such a per-
son's mother, brother, &c.; the women carried off the guns and
other arms, and concealed them: that he had then crossed the
river opposite to the village, and was followed by a number of In-
dians, with pistols under their blankets: that they would listen to
no conference whatever relative to the delivery of the prisoners;
but demanded, insolently, why he wore a plume in his hat; and de-
clared that they looked upon it as a mark of war, and immediately
decorated themselves with their ravens' feathers, worn only in cases
of hostility. We regretted that our orders would not permit of our
punishing the scoundrels, as by a coup de main we might easily have
carried the village. Gave captain Many a note of introduction ta
Messrs. Campbell, Fisher, Wilmot, and Dubuque, and every infor-
mation in my power. AVe sat up late conversing.
Saturday, 26th April—Captain Many and myself took breakfast,
VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
and embarked, wind directly a-head, and a most tremendous swell to
combat with, which has been the case ever since we left the prairie.
Captain M. departed under full sail. We set off at the same
time, and descended by all the sinuosities of the shore, to avoid
the strength of the wind and force of the waves. I was confident
he could sail much faster up than we could possibly down the stream.
Encamped on Grant's prairie, where we had encamped on the 25th
August, when ascending. There was one Indian and family pre-
sent, to whom I gave some corn.
Sunday, 2?th April.—It cleared offduring the night; we embarked
early, and by sun-set had come on to about eight to ten leagues
above the river Jowa, to the establishment at the lower Sac village,
a distance of nearly forty-eight leagues. Here I met with Messrs.
Maxwell and Blondeau; took the deposition of the former on the
Subject of the Indians' intoxication at this place, for they were alt
drunk. They had stolen a horse from the establishment, and offered
to bring it back for liquor; but laughed at them when offered a
blanket and powder. Passed two canoes and two barges.
. At the establishment received two letters from Mrs. Pike; took
with us corporal Eddy, and the other soldier, whom captain Many
had left behind. Rowed with four oars all night. A citizen took
his passage with me.
Monday, 28th April.—In the morning passed a wintering ground,
where, from appearance, there must have been at least seven or
eight different establishments. At twelve o'clock arrived at the
French house, mentioned in our voyage up on the 16th August;
here we landed our citizen, who belonged to the settlement on Cop-
per river. He informed me there were about twenty-five families in
that settlement. About ten miles above Salt river we stopped at
some islands where there were pigeon roosts, and in about fifteen
minutes my men had knocked on the head, and brought on board,
about three hundred. I had frequently heard of the fecundity of
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 121
this bird, but never gave credit to what I then thought to approach
the marvellous; but really the most fervid imagination cannot con-
ceive their numbers. Their noise in the woods was like the continued
roaring of the wind, and the ground may be said to have been abso-
lutely covered with their excrement. The young ones which we
killed were nearly as large as the old; they could fly about ten
steps, and were one mass of fat; their craws were filled with acorns
and the wild pea. They were still reposing on their nests, which
were merely small bunches of sticks joined, with which all the small
trees were covered.
Having proceeded on our voyage, we met four canoes of the
Sacs, with wicker baskets filled with young pigeons. They made
motions to exchange them for liquor, to which I returned the back
of my hand.—Indeed the Indians had become so insolent through the
instigation of the traders, that nothing but the lenity of our govern-
ment, and humanity for the rogues, could have restrained me on
my descent from carrying some of their towns by surprise, which I
was determined to have done, had the information of their firing on
Captain Many proved to be correct.—I put into the mouth of Salt
river to cook our supper, after which, although raining, we put off,
and set our watches, but so violent a gale and thunder storm came
on about 12 o'clock that we put ashore: discovered that one of my
sledge dogs was missing.
Tuesday, 29th April.—In the morning still raining, the wind blow-
ing right a-head, hoisted sail and returned to the mouth of the river;
but neither here nor on the shore could we find my dog.—This was
no little mortification, after having brought them so near home, as
it broke the match whose important services I had already experi-
enced. We continued on until 12 o'clock when it ceased raining
for a little time, and we put a shore for breakfast, rowed till sun-
down, when I set the watch; night fine and mild.
B
122 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
Wednesday, SOtfe April.—By day-light found ourselves atthe port-
age de Sionx. I here landed captain Many's two men and' ordered
them across by land to the cantonment—as I had never seen the
village, I walked up through it. The number of houses does not ex-
ceed twenty, they are built of square logs.—Met Lieutenant Hughes,
about four miles above St. Louis, with between twenty and thirty
Osage prisoners conveying them to the cantonment on the Missouri.
He informed me my friends were all well. About 12 o'clock I
arrived with my party at the towa, after an absence of eight months
and twenty-two days.
INDIAN NATIONS INHABITING THE DISTRICTS BORDERING ON THE
UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
THE first nation of Indians whom we met with in ascending the
Mississippi from St. Louis were the Sacs, who principally reside in four
villages. The first is situated at the head of the Rapids des Moines
on the western shore, consisting of thirteen log lodges, the second
on a prairie, on the eastern shore about sixty miles above, the third
on Rock river, about three miles from the entrance, and the last on
the river Jowa. They hunt on the Mississippi and its confluent
streams from the Illinois to the river Jowa, and on the plains west
of them which border on the Missouri. They are so perfectly con-
solidated with the Reynards, that they scarcely can be termed a distinct
nation, but recently there appears to be a schism between them;
the latter not approving of the insolence and ill will which has
marked the conduct of the former to the United States on many
late occurrences. They have for many years past made war, under
the auspices of the Sioux, on the Sauteaux, Osages, and Missouries,
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 123
but ate at present, through th£ ihfteence of the Uttited St&tes, a. peace
h*s been made between them and the nations of the Missouri,
and by the s*n>e means between the SiouK and Sauteaux, their prin-
cipal allies: it appears that it woteld be by no means a difficult fcnattefr
to induce them to make a general peace and pay still greater atten-
tion to the cultivation of the earth, as they now raise a considerable
quantity of corn, beans, and melons. The character they bear With
their savage brethren is, that they are much taore to be dreaded for
their deceit and disposition for stratagem, than for open courage.
The Reynards reside itt three villages, the first situated on tire
western side of the Mississippi, six aailes above the rapids of Rock
riter; the second about twelve mites in the rear of the lead mines;
and the third on Turkey river, half a league from its entrance.
They are engaged in the same wafs, and have the same alliances AS
the Sacs, with whom they must be considered as indissolubly united.
They hunt on both sides of the Mississippi from the river Jowa,
below the Prairie des Chiens, to a river of that name above the said
village. They raise a great quantity of corn, beans, and melons ; the
former of those articles in such abundance as to Sell many hundred
bushels per annum.
The Jowas reside on the rivers des Moines and Jovra in two'
villages. They hunt on the western side of the Mississippi, the river
des Moines, and westward to the Missouri; their wars and alliance^
are the same as those of the Sacs and Reynards, under whose special
protection they conceived themselves to be. They cultivate some'
corn, but not so much in proportion as the two latter nations:
their residence being on the small streams in the rear of the Missis*
sippi, out of the high road of commerce, renders them less civilised.
The Sacs, Reynards, and Jowas, since the treaty of the two former
with the United States, claim the land from the entrance of the
Jauflione on the western side of the Mississippi, up the latter rivet
to the Jowa, above the Prairie des Chiens, and westward to the
K 2
124 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
Missouri, but the limits between themselves are undefined. All the
land formerly claimed by those nations east of the Mississippi, is
now ceded to the United States; but they reserved to themselves the
privilege of hunting and residing on it as usual.
By killing the celebrated Sac chief Pontiac, the Illinois, Caho-
kias, Kaskaskias, and Priores, kindled a war with the allied nations of
Sacs and Reynards, which has been the cause of the almost entire
destruction of the former nations.
- The Winebagoes, or Puants, are a nation who reside on the river
Ouisconsing, Rock and Fox rivers, and Green bay, in seven villages,
which are situated as follows, viz.: 1st. at the entrance of Green bay:
2d. at the end of Green bay; 3d. Wuckan: 4th. lakePuckaway: 5th.
portage of the Ouisconsing: 6th. and 7th. both on Rock river. Those
villages are so situated, that the Winebagoes can embody the whole
force of their nation, at one point of their territory, in four days.
They hunt on the Ouisconsing, Rock river, and the eastern side of the
Mississippi, from Rock river to the Prairie des Chiens, on lake Michi-
gan, Black river, and the countries between lakes Michigan, Huron,
and Superior. From a tradition amongst themselves, and their speak-
ing the same language as the Ottoes of the river Plate, I am confident
in asserting that they are a nation who have emigrated from Mexico,
to avoid the oppression of the Spaniards; and the time may be fixed at
one and a half centuries past, when they were taken under the protec-
tion of the Sioux, to whom they still profess to owe faith, and at least
brotherly attention. They have formerly been at war with the nations
west of the Mississippi, but appear recently to have laid down the
hatchet. They are reputed brave, but from every circumstance their
neighbours distinguish their bravery as the ferocity of a tiger, rather
than the deliberate resolution of a man. Lately their conduct has
been such as to authorize the remark made by a chief of a neighbour-
ing nation, that a white man never should lie down to sleep in their
villages without precaution.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 125
The Menomene, or Fols Avoin nation, as it is termed by the French,
reside in seven villages, situated as follows, viz.: 1st. at the river
Menomene, fifteen leagues from Green bay, on the north side of the
lake: 2d. at Green bay: 3d. at Little Kokalin: 4th. portage of Ko-
kalin : 5th. Puant lake: 6th. entrance of a small lake on Fox river:
and 7th. behind Les Buttes des Morts. Their hunting grounds are
the same as those of the Winebagoes, only that, owing to the very
high estimation in which they are held both by the Sioux and Chip-
peways, they are frequently permitted to hunt near the Raven river
on the Mississippi, which may be termed the battle ground between
those two great nations.
The language which they speak is singular, for no white man has
ever yet been known .to acquire it. But this may probably be attri-
buted to their all understanding the Algonquin, in which they and
the Winebagoes carry on all conferences with the whites or other na-
tions; and the facility with which that language is acquired is a fur-
ther reason for its prevalence.
The Fols Avoin, although a small nation, are respected by all their
neighbours for their bravery and independent spirit, and esteemed
by the whites as their friends and protectors, when in their
country.
The Sacs, Reynards, Puants, and Menomenes all reside, when
not at their villages, in lodges in the form of an ellipsis, some of them
thirty to forty feet in length, by fourteen or fifteen wide; which are
sufficiently large to shelter sixty people from the storm, or for twenty
to reside in. Their covering is formed of rushes plaited into mats,
and carefully tied to poles. In the centre are fires, immediately
over which is a small aperture in the lodge, which in fair weather is
sufficient to give vent to the smoke, but in bad weather you must lie
down on the ground to prevent being considerably incommoded
by it.
We next came to that powerful nation the Sioux, the dread of
whom is extended over all the savage tribes, from the confluence of
126 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
the Mississippi and Missouri, to the Raven river on the former, and
to the S»ake Indians on the latter; but in those limits are many na-
tions, whom they consider as allies, on a similar footing with the allies
of ancient Rome, that is, humble dependents. . But the Chippeway
nation is an exception, who have maintained ft long contest mfcfa
them, owing to their country being intersected by numerous small
lakes, watercourses, impenetrable morasses, and swamps; and they
have hitherto bidden defiance to all the attacks of their neighbours.
In order to have a correct idea of the Sioux nation, it is necessary
to divide it into the different bands as distinguished by themselves.
Agreeably to this plan, I shall begin with the Minowa Kantong, or
Gens du Lac, who extend from the Prairie des Chiens to La Prairie
des Francois, thirty-fire miles up the St. Peter's. This band is again
subdivided into four parts under different chiefs. The first of
these most generally resides at their village on the upper Jowa river
above the Prairie des Chiens, and is commanded by Wabasha, a
chief whose father was considered as the first chief of all the Sioux
nations. This subdivision hunts on both sides of the Mississippi,
and its confluent streams, from the Prairie des Chiens to Buffalo
river. The second subdivision resides near the head of lake Pephi,
and hunts from the Buffalo river to near the river St. Croix. The
chief's name is Talangamane, a very celebrated warrior. The third
subdivision resides between Cannon river and the entrance of St. Pe-
ter's. It is headed by Chatewaconamani; their principal hunting
ground \S on the St. Croix; they have a village at a phtce called the
Grand Marais, fifteen miles below the entrance of the St. Peter's. It
is situated on the eastern bank of the Mississippi, and consists of eleven
log huts. The fourth su bdivision is situated in the terri tory extending
from the entrance of the St. Peter's to the Prairie des Francois; it is
headed by a chief called Chatamutah, but a young man named Wa-
gaganage has recently taken the lead in all its councils and affairs of
state. It has one village nine miles up the St. Peter's, oft the north-
east side. This-band, Minowa Kantong, are reputed the bravest of
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. x 137
all the Sioux, and have for years been opposed to IheFols Avoin Sau_
teurs, who are reputed the bravest of all the numerous bands of the
Chippeways. The second band of the Sioux are the Washpetong, or
Gens des Feuilles, who inhabit the country from the Prairie des
Francois, nearly to Roche Blanche, on the St. Peter's, Their first
chief is Wasonquianni. They hunt on the St. Peter's, also ou the
Mississippi, up Rum river, and sometimes follow the buffalo on the
plains. Their subdivisions I am unacquainted with.
The third band are the Sussitongs: they extend from the Roche
Blanche to Lac de la Grosse Roche, OB the river St.Peter's; they are
divided into two subdivisions. The first band, called the Carrees, are
headed by the chief AVuckieu Nutch, or the Tonnerre Rouge.
The second, called the Sussitongs proper, are headed by Wacanto (or
Esprit Bleu). These two sub-bands hunt eastward to the Missis-
sippi, and »p that river as far as Raven river. The fourth great
band are the Yanetongs, who are dispersed from the Mon-
tagaes de la Prairie, which extend from St. Peter's to the Missouri,
to the river des Moiaes. They are divided into two grand divisions,
generally termed the Yanctongs of the north and the Yanctongs of
the south. The former are headed by a chie£ called Muckpeanutah,
or Nwage Rouge, and those of Prairie by Petessung. This band are
never stationary, hut, with the Tetons, are the most erratic of all the
Sioux i sometimes to be found on the borders of the lower Red river,
sometimes on the Missouri, an •. in those immense plains which fie
between the two rivers.
The fifth great band are the Tetons, who are dispersed: on both
sides of the Missouri. On the north, principally from the river Chien
op, and on the south, from the Mahas to the Minetares ox Gross
Ventre. Ttiey may be divided into the Tetons of the north and
south, but the immense plains over which they rove with the Yanc-
tsongs, render it impossible to point out their places of habitation!.
The sixth and smallest band1 of the Sioux, are: tfce Washpeconte,
128 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
who reside generally on the lands west of the Mississippi, between
that river and the Missouri. They hunt most generally on the
head of the river des Moines. They appeared to me to be the most
stupid of all the Sioux.
The Minowa Kan tongs are the only band of Sioux who use ca-
noes, and are by far the most civilized, being the only ones who
have ever built log huts, or cultivated any species of vegetables, and
they but a very small quantity of corn and beans; for although I
was with them in September or October, I never saw one kettle of
either, always using the wild oats for bread. This production nature
has furnished to all the most uncultivated nations of the north-west
continent, who may gather a sufficiency in autumn. This, added
to the productions of the chase, and the net, ensures them a sub-
sistence through all the seasons of the year. This band is entirely
armed with fire-arms, but is not considered by the other bands as
anything superior on that account, especially on the plains.
The Washpetongs are a roving band; they leave the river St. Pe-
ter's in the month of April, and do not return from the plains until the
month of August. The Sussitongs, of Roche Blanche, have the cha-
racter of being the most evil disposed Indians on the river St. Pe-
ter's. They likewise follow the buffalo in the spring and summer
months. The Sussitongs of the Lac de la Grosse Roche have the
character of good hunters, and brave warriors, which may prin-
cipally be attributed to their chief the Tonnerre Rouge, who at
the present day is allowed by both white people and savages of
different bands (often their own chiefs) to be the first man in the
the Sioux nation. The Yanctongs and Tetons are the most inde-
pendent Indians in the world; they follow the buffalo as chance
directs, cloatl ling themselves with the skin, and making their
lodges, saddles, and bridles, of the same materials, the flesh of the
animal furnishing their food. Possessing an innumerable stock of
horses, they are here this day and five hundred miles off in ten days
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 129
hence, and find themselves equally at home in either place, moving
with a rapidity scarcely to be imagined by the inhabitants of the ci-
vilized world.
The trade of the Minowa Kan tongs, Washpetongs, Sussitongs, and
part of,the Yanctongs, is all derived from the traders of Michilli-
mackinac, and the latter supply the Yanctongs of the north and
Tetons with the small quantities of iron-works which they re-
quire. Fire-arms are not in much estimation with them. The
Washpecontes trade principally with the people of the Prairie des
Chiens.
The claim of limits of the Sioux nation is allowed by all their
neighbours to commence at the Prairie des Chiens, and to ascend
the Mississippi on both sides the Raven river, up that river to its
source, thence to the source of St. Peter's, from thence to the
Montagues de la Prairie, thence to the Missouri, down that river to
the Mahas, bearing thence north-east to the source of the river des
Moines, and from thence again to the Prairie des Chiens. They
also claim a large territory south of the Missouri, but how far it ex-
tends is uncertain. The country east of the Mississippi from
Rum river to Raven river is likewise in dispute between them
and the Chippeways, and has been the scene of many a sharp en-
counter for near one hundred and fifty years past. From my know-
ledge of the Sioux, I do not hesitate to pronounce them the most war-
like and independent nation of the Indians within the boundaries of
the United States, their every passion being subservient to that of war,
while at the same time the traders feel themselves perfectly secure
from any combination being made against them. But it is extremely
necessary to be careful not to injure the honour or feelings of an in-
dividual, which is certainly the principal cause of many broils that
occur between them. Never was a trader known to suffer in the
estimation of the nation by resenting any indignity offered him, even
if he went so far as the taking of the life of the offender. Their gut-
s
130 V7OYAGE TO THE SOURCE
teral pronunciation, high cheek bones, their visages, and distinct
manners, together with their own traditions, supported by the testi-
mon\' of neighbouring nations, put it in my mind beyond the shadow
of a doubt, that they have emigrated from the north-west point of
America, to which they had come across the narrow straits, which
in that quarter divide the two continents, and are absolutely descend-
ants of a Tartar tribe.
The only personal knowledge I have of the Chippeway nation,
is restricted to the tribes of the south of lake Superior; head
waters of the Chippeway river and the St. Croix, and those who re-
side at Sandy lake, Leech lake, Rainy lake, Red lake, and the head
of the Red river, the Mississippi, and Raven rivers. Like the Sioux
they are divided into many bands, the names of only seven of which
I am acquainted with. I shall begin with those who reside on the
south side of lake Superior, and on Sandy and Leech lakes, with
the adjacent country. They are generally denominated by the
traders, by the name of Sauteaux, but those of the head waters of the
Chippeway and St. Croix rivers, are called Fols Avoin Sauteaux: I
am unacquainted with the names of their chiefs. Those of Sandy
lake are headed by a chief called Catawabata, or De Breche. They
hunt on the Mille Lacs, Red lake, and the eastern bank of the
Mississippi, from Rum river up to the Raven river, and from thence on
both sides of the Mississippi to Pine river, on that river also, up the
Mississippi again to Sandy lake, to nearly about one hundred miles
above that lake. Those of Leech lake hunt on its streams, lake Wi-
nipic, upper Red Cedar lake, the Otter tail lake, head of Raven
river, and the upper part of lower Red river; their chief is La
Gueule Plate, or Eskibugeckoge.
2d. The Crees reside on Red lake, and hunt in its vicinity, and on
Red river; their first chief's name is Wisooup, or I^e Sucre.
3d. The Nepesangs reside on lake Nippising, and on lake St.
Joseph.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 131
4th. The Algonquins reside on the lake of the two mountains, and
are dispersed along the north side of lakes Ontario and Erie. From
this tribe the language of the Chippeways derives its name, and the
whole nation is frequently designated by the same appellation.
5th. The Ottoways reside on the north-western side of lake Michi-
gan and lake Huron, and hunt between those lakes and lake Su-
perior.
6th. The Irriquois Chippeways are dispersed along the banks of all
the great lakes from Ontario to the Lake of woods.
7tli. The Muscononges reside on the waters of lower Red river,
near to lake Winipie, and are the farthest band of the Chippeways.
The Chippeways were the great and almost natural enemies of the
Sioux, with whom they have been waging a war of extermination for
near two centuries'. On my arrival amongst them, 1 succeeded in in-
ducing both sides to agree to a peace; aad no blood was shed from
September 1805 to April 1806, when I left the country. The object
had frequently been, in vain, attempted by the British government,
who often brought the chiefs ot the two nations together at Michilli-
mackinac, made them presents, &c.; but the Sioux, still haughty and
overbearing, spurned the proffered calumet, and returned to renew
the scenes of slaughter and barbarity. It may then be demanded,
how could a subaltern with twenty men, and no presents worthy of
notice,effect that which the Governors of Canada with all the immense
finances of the Indian department had attempted in vain, although
they had frequently and urgently recommended it? I reply, that the
British Government, it is true, requested, recommended, and made
presents, but all this at a distance, and when' the chiefs returned?
to their bands their thirst of blood soon obliterated from their recol-
lectioa the lectures of humanity which they had heard in the coun-
cils of Michillamaekmac. But when I appeared awongst thena, the
United States had lately acquired the jurisdiction over them, and
the name of the Americans, as warriors, had frequently been sounded
> 2
132 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
in theii ears; and when I spoke to them on the subject, I recom-
mended them, in the name of their great Father, to make peace, and
offered them the benefit of the mediation and guarantee of the United
States, and spoke of the peace, not as a benefit to us, but a step
taken to make themselves and children happy. This language, held
up to both nations, with the assistance of the traders, a happy coinci-
dence of circumstances, and, may I not add, the concurrence of the
Almighty, effected that which had before been long attempted with-
out success. But I am perfectly convinced, that unless troops are
sent up between those two nations, with an agent whose business it
should be to watch the rising discontents, and check the brooding
spirit of revenge, the weapons of death will again be raised, and the
echoes of savage barbarity resound through the wilderness.
The Chippeways are uncommonly attached to spirituous liquors;
but may not this be owing to their traders, who find it their interest
to encourage their thirst after an article, which enables them to ob-
tain their peltries at so low a rate, as scarcely to be denominated a
consideration, and have reduced the people near the establishment to
a degree of degradation unparalleled? *
The Algonquin language is one of the most copious and sonorous
of all the savage dialects in North America, and is spoken and under-
stood by the various nations (except the Sioux) from the gulf of St.
Lawrence to lake Winipic.
The Chippeways are much more mild and docile than the Sioux,
and if we may judge from unprejudiced observers, more cool and deli-
berate in action; but the latter possess a much higher sense of the
honour of their nation, while the former plan for self-preservation.
The Sioux attack with impetuosity, the others defend with every
necessary precaution. But the superior number of the Sioux would
have enabled them to annihilate the Chippeways long since, had it not
been for the nature of the country, which entirely precludes the pos-
sibility of an attack on horseback. It also gives them a decided
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 135
advantage over an enemy, who being half armed with arrows, the least
twig of a bush would turn the shaft of death out of its direction; a
bullet holds its course, nor spends its force short of the destined victim.
Thus we generally have found, that when engaged in a prairie, the
Sioux came off victorious, but when in the woods, if not obliged to
retreat, the carcasses of their slaughtered brethren have shewn them
how dearly they purchase victory.
The Sioux are bounded on the north-east and north by those two
powerful nations the Chippeways and Knisteneaux, whose manners,
strength, and boundaries, are ably described by Sir Alexander
Mackenzie. The Assinniboins, or Stone Sioux, who border the Chip-
peways on the north-west and west, are a revolted band of the
Sioux, and have maintained a war Avith the present nation for
about a century, and rendered themselves their most violent ene-
mies. They extend from Red river west, nearly to the Stony moun-
tains, and are computed at one thousand five hundred warriors. They
reside on the plains, and follow the buffalo, consequently they have
very little occasion for traders or European productions.
134
VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
i
of the Number, &c. of the Nations of Indians residing on the Mississippi and its confluent
|
V
N a
u
Naraw. of lh>- dif-
I
1
§
o
ja
i
III
ferent nations
as pronounced
in the English
Primitive names,
as given by the
Savages (hera-
a
2
of Villas
o
f Fire Ar
Traders or Band
with vlu>n> the
traffic.
return ul
in packfl.
Names givpB them
bv the French.
t
9
'?
1
Jj
li
Primitive Lu-
"i
Species of Peltrr.
language.
wlvei.
i
£
o
£
f
1
"s|
o
i
ili
1
0.
,d
6 = =
•
Dollan.
I^"!-
c «*s
Sawkee
Sac
700
750
1400
i
2850
"
700
Sauk
Of Michillimac
kinac,St.Loui£,
with the people
of the Prairie
15000
1,01
Principally Deer-skins,
some Bear, and a, few
Otter, Beaver, and
Racoon.
7oxes
Ottagaumic • •
Reynards • • • •
400
500
850
a
175ft
v
400
Sauk, with a
small differ-
des Chiens
8500
400
Principally Deer, a few
Bear, with a small
'
ence in the
proportion more of
Furs.
Aiovrais •-••
Ne Perce
300
400
700
2
1400
250
Missouries • •
Of Mirhilliinac-
10000
30(
Deer-skins, Black Resr,
kiuac
Otter, Bearer, Mink,
T
Rackoon, Grey Fox,
and Musk-rat.
VincbflcroGS
O han
P
4,30
500
1000
_
19.W
4.10
\r' •
9000
200
The same as the Foi's
tgfw
viisBouries, or
Zoto
Menomencs..
VIcnomene • •
7ols Avoin • • • •
300
350
700
7
1350
300
Menomcne • •
Of Ditto •
9000
250
Beaver, Marten, Grer
Fox, Mink, Muskra',
Otter, Deer-ilium,
•o
ues ....
Elk-skins, &c.
s
'eople of the
Minowa Kan-
Sens du Lac • •
30.5
600
1200
3
210.5
125
305
Varcotah
Of Ditto
13500
230
leer-skins, a few Bear.
Lakes
tong
some Beaver, Kac-
•0
koun, &c.
a
People of the
Washpctong
Gens ili si '-in lies
180
350
530
1060
Of Ditto
id
.
70
K;O
(X>00
115
Deer- skins, a few Buf-
W
Leaves
falo robes, some Bea-
Sioux, carried forward. •••
485
950
1730
3
3lfi5
195
46-5
ver, Otter, Mink, fcc,
OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
135
Streams, from St. Lotii«, Louisiana, to its Source, including Red Lake and Lower Red River.
Tbf po'iiion» most proper
for tradiag establishments.
Nations with »bom at
war.
Nations with whom at
putce, or lo allianoe.
Names of the Chiefs or principal Men.
Remarks.
Indian.
French.
English.
At the head of the rapid
dcs Moines.
Reynards, Puants,
Sioux, Osage, Po-
towato ies, Fols
Aroin, lowas, and
all the nations of
the Minouri
Washionc.
Pockquinike • •
Brag Casse . • • •
Broken Arm.
On a small stream call-
tdCiards river, nearly
oppoitc the Prairie
des Chiens, or at the
confluence of the Mis-
sissippi and UM Ouia-
fuming.
Lc Petit Corbeau
LaPoau lU.nmlu
Little Raven.
White Skin.
First Fox Chief.
Ontne rivers des Muir.es
and lava.
Ditto.
Portage de Kokaliu,
on Fos river, or at the
Grand Calumet.
Since the peace was
made between the Osa-
gcs, Sacs, and Rey-
nards, the Pnan's have
tacitly ceased to make
var on the former
In alliance with the
Sacs, Reynards,
T'ols Aroins,&c. and
at peace \vith all
otiior nations.
Sansamani Che-
First Chief of the nation — re-
ceived a commission as tirst
chief.
Commissioned.
Ditto.
Ditto,
Ditto.
TVrtaire des Peres, on
file Fox river.
Ottowny,C"nippcway,
andOchaiigras; and
at peace with all
nations.
Tomaw *
Shawonoe.
Keckech.
Thomas Cairon
Thomas Carron
The Leaf
Pint chief of the nation— re-
ceived a commission as first
chief and a flag.
VVabasha
IJB. Feuille
First chief of the nation.
Literally translated — receiv-
ed a comuiisiiou and flag.
fatrance St. Croi*. • • •
Recently with the Chip-
peways, but now at
peace with the Assin-
niboins, and SMIMC na-
tiuiis ou the .Mi.^ouri.
With the Sacs, Rey-
nard*, lowas, aud
Fols Avoins.
Talangamane • •
Chatewacona-
L'Aie Rouge • •
Petit Corbeau • •
The Red Wing
Ditto Ditto
T.itamane • • • •
L'Origmal Leve
Nez Corbeau • •
Rising Moose
Kaven Nose
Received a commission and
nag.
Literally translated.
Ijcurally, the wind that walks!
comm sbioned.
Wasonquianoi
"Anignee Jnune
Tonnerre qa
Borme
First chief of the nation.
Literally tianslated.
Received a commission and
flag.
Utole Rapids • • •
Suut Pttej-'i
i Ditto
Ditto • <
Wtikunsna
Huuho Otab • •
The Rolling Thunder
The Stone of Fruit'.
OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
Streams, from St. Louis, Louisiana, to its Source, including Red Lake, and Lower Red River.
The positions most proper
for trading establishment].
Nations with whotn at war.
Natynis with whom ;.
peacr, or in alliance.
Names of the Chiefc or Principal Men.
Remarks.
Indian.
French.
English.
Lac de la Grosse Roche
Saint Peter's.
Recently with the Chip-
pcways, but now at
peace with the Assin-
niboins and some na-
tions on the Missouri.
With the Sacs, Rey-
nards, lowas, and
P'o!s Avoins.
Waminisabah • •
Esprit lilcu- • • •
KilleurNoir ••
Gross Calumet
Tonncrru Rouge
First Chief of his band.
Literally translated.
Wuckieu Nutch
Red Thunder
A literal translatiou —first
chief of all the Sioux.
Petfissung • • • •
Mujckpeanutah
Champanage.
JA Vache Blanche
Nuage Rouge ••
White Buffalo
Red Cloud
Literally translated.
Ditto. First chief of the nation.
Various nations of the
Missouri. •
Ditty-
Chaniaoeteka • •
Sheoouskar • • •
Le Coeur Mau-
rais
La Couvertt
Blanche
Le Creur du Kil-
leur Rouge'
The Bad Heart
White Blanket
Of BoisBrule.
Okandandai.
\Vamanocpenu-
tab
The Heart of the Red
.Eag4e -
I'rairie des Chiens.
Ditto,
Dkto. • •
Tantangasbatah
Kachiwasigon • •
Le B«euf qui
.louo
be Corbeau
Franvois
The Playing Buffalo
The Freuch Raven
Literal translation.
Ditto.
Sandy Lake.
Recently the Sioux;
but now at peace. At
war with the Sacs,
Foxes, and lowas.
With the Fols Aroins
and all the nations
of Canada.
Catawal>it« . • • .'
De Breche
First chief of his band.
rir>t chief of his band.
Leech Lake.
Ditto.
Ditto.
F.skibugcckoge
Obigouitte • • • •
Gucule Plate • •
Chef de la Terre
Flat Mouth
Chief of the Laud.
The Burnt.
Red Lake.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
South aide of Lake Su-
perior.
Necktara* ....
T
i
Hesides on Lac La PluSe rircr.
.!
-
i i
138
VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
RECAPITULATION.
V
j
J
p
t
o
•s|
i
E
E
£ cd
Names of Nationi.
|
2
i
"5
2.5°
£
1> O
o
"3
o
15
•«"
'o o
o
o
6
o
•
•§
. 3S
•
0
^' 1
fc
Z
«
£
£
*
700
750
1,400
3
2,850
700
Foxes ....
400
500
850
3
1,750
* *
400
Jowas ....
300
400
700
2
1,400
* •
250
Winebao;oes . .
450
500
1,000
7
1,950
450
Menomenes . . .
o
300
350
700
7
1,350
.
300
.
Sioux
3,835
7,030
11,800
3
21,675
1,270
1,265
Chippeways . .
2,049
3,184
5,944
• •
11,177
603
2,049
Total . . .
8,034
12,714
22,394
25
42,152
1,873
5,414
OBSERVATIONS
ON THE TRADE, VIEWS, AND POLICY OF THE NORTH WEST COM
PANY, AND THE NATIONAL OBJECTS CONNECTED WITH THEIR
COMMERCE, AS IT INTERESTS THE GOVERNMENT OF THE UNITED
STATES.
THE fur. trade in Canada, has always be«n considered as an
object of the first importance to that colony, and has been cherished
by the respective governors of that province, by every regulation in
their power, under both the French and English administrations.
The great and almost unlimited influence, the traders of that coun-
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 139
try had acquired over the savages, was severly felt, and will long be
remembered by the citizens on our frontiers.
Every attention was paid by the cabinet of St. James in our
treaty with Great Britain to secure to their Canadian subjects the
privilege of the Indian trade within our territories, and with what
judgment they have improved the advantages they obtained, time
will soon unfold.
In the year 1766, the trade was first extended from Michillimao
kinac to the north west, by a few desperate adventurers, whose mode
of life on the voyage, and short residence in civil society, obtained for
them the appellation of Coureurs des Bois. From this trifling begin-
ning arose the present North West Company, who, notwithstanding
the repeated attacks made on their trade, have withstood every shock,
* and are now, by the coalition of the late X Y Company, estab-
lished on so firm a basis, as to bid defiance to every opposition
that can be made by private individuals. By a late purchase of
the king's posts in Canada, they extended their lines of trade from
Hudson's bay to the St. Lawrence, up that river on both sides to the
lakes, from thence to Lake Superior, at which place the North
West Company have their head quarters; from thence to the
source of Red river, and on all its tributary streams, through the
country to the Missouri, through the waters of Lake Winipic to
the Saskashawin, on that river to its source, up Elk river to the lake
of the Hills; up Peace river to the Rocky mountains, from the lake
of the Hills up Slave river to the Slave lake; and this year they have
despatched a Mr. Mackenzie on a voyage of trade and discovery
down Mackenzie's river to the North Sea, and also a Mr. M'Kay to
cross the Rocky mountains and proceed to the western ocean with the
same objects. They have had a gentleman by the name of Thom-
son, making a geographical survey of the north west part of the
continent; who for three years, with an astonishing spirit of enter-
prise and perseverance, passed over all that extensive and unknown
T2
140 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
country. His establishment, although not splendid, (the mode of
travelling not admitting it) was such as to allO\v of the most un-
limited expenses in every thing necessary to facilitate his inquiries,
and he is now engaged in digesting the important results of his
undertaking. I find from the observations and suggestions of Mr.
Thompson, that when at the source of the Mississippi, it was his
opinion the line of limits between the United-States and Great
Britain must run such a course from the head of the lake of the
woods, as to touch the source of the "Mississippi, and this I dis-
covered to be the opinion of the North West Company, who, we
may suppose, or reasonably conclude, speak the language held
forth by their government. The admission of this pretension will
throw out of our territory all the upper part of Red river,* and
nearly two fifths of the territory of Louisiana, vhereas, if the line
is run due west from the head of the lake of the Woods, it will
cross Red river nearly at the entrance, and it is conjectured, strike
the Western Ocean at Birch bay in Queen .Charlotte Sound;
These differences of opinion, it is presumed, might be easily ad-
justed between the two governments at the present day, but it is
believed that delays, by unfolding the true value of the country,
may produce difficulties which do not at present exist. The
North West Company have made establishments tit several places
on the soiith side of Lake Superior, and at the head waters of
the rivers Sauteaux and St. Croix, which discharge themselves'
into the Mississippi. The first I met with on the voyage up, was
at lower Red Cedar lake, about one hundred and fifty miles above
the isle deCorbeau, being on the eastern side of the river, and distant
therefrom six miles; it is situated on the north point of the lake,
and consists of log buildings flanked by picketed bastions on two
right angles. The next establishment I met with was situated
on Sandy lake.
The fort at this place is situated On the south side of the Ja'fce near
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 141
the east end, and consists of a stockade of one hundred feet square
with bastions, and the south-east and north-west angles pierced for
small arms.
The pickets are squared on the outside, and round within, of
about one foot in diameter, and are thirteen feet above ground.
There are three gates, the principal one fronts the lake on the
north, and is ten feet by nine; the one on the west, six feet by four;
the one on the east, six feet by five: as you enter by the main gate
you have on the left a building of one story twenty feet square, the
residence of the superintendant; opposite to this .house on the left
of the east gate is a house twenty-five feet by fifteen, the quarters of
the men; on entering the west gate you will find the store house
on ihe right, thirty feet by twenty, and on your left a building,
forty feet by twenty, which contains rooms for clerks, a work shop
and a provision store.
On the west and north-west is an enclosure of about four acres
picketed in, in which last year they raised four hundred bushels
of potatoes, cultivating no other vegetable; in this enclosure
is a very ingeniously constructed vault to contain the potatoes,
but which likewise rras secret apartments to conceal liquors, dry
go'ods, &c.
Midway between Sandy lake and Leech lake is a small house
worthy of notice. On the south-west side of the latter lake from
the outlet of the Mississippi, 'Stand the head quarters of the
Fond du Lac department.
The fort is situated on the western side of the lake in 47° 16',
13" north latitude; it is built near the shore on the declivity of"
a rising ground, having an enclosed garden of about five acres
on the norfh-west. It is a square stockade of one hundred and
fifty feet, the pickets being fifteen feet in length, three feet under,
and thirteen above ground, and are bound together by horizontal
bars, each ten feet long; pickets often feet are likewise driven into
the ground on the inside of the work opposite the apertures between
142 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
the large pickets. At the west and east angles are square bastions
pierced .for fire arms. The main building in the rear fronting the
lake, is sixty feet by twenty-five, one and a half stones high, the
west end of which is occupied by the director of the Fond du Lac
department: he has a hall eighteen feet square, bed room and
kitchen, with an office. The centre is a trading shop of twelve and
a half feet square, with a bed room in the rear of the same dimen-
sions, the east end is a large store, twenty-five feet by twenty,
under which there is an ice house well filled; the loft extends
o-ver the whole building, and contains bales of goods, packs of
peltries, also chests containing wild rice; besides the ice house, there
are cellars under all the other parts of the building. The door
and window shutters are musket proof.
On the western side is arange of buildings, fifty-four by eighteen feet,
fronting the parade, the first end of which is a cooper's shop, eighteen
feet by fourteen with a cellar, adjoining to which is a room called the
Indian hall, (expressly for the reception of the Indians,and in which the
•chiefs who met me in council were entertained): in this hall are two
closed bunks for interpreters; its dimensions are twenty-two feet by
eighteen: adjoining to this is a room, eighteen feet square, for the
clerks, (in which my small party were quartered); under both of the
latter rooms are cellars.
On the eastern side is a range of buildings, fifty feet by eighteen,
which has one room twenty feet, and one of fifteen feet, for quarters
for the men, also, a blacksmith's shop of fifteen feet, which is occu-
pied by an excellent workman. On the left of the main gate front-
'ing the river is a flag-staff of sixty feet in height.
They intend building a small block-house over the main gate
fronting the lake, to place a small piece of artillery in. There are
likewise gates on the north and east flanks of about ten feet by
eight.
Here resides the director of this department.
This department brings in annually forty canoes, and it appears
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 143
by a calculation made by a gentleman of veracity and informa-
tion, who has been eighteen years in the Indian trade, and in
the habit of importing goods by Michillimackinac, that the annual
amount of duties would be about thirteen thousand dollars. The
Lower Red river, which I conceive to be within our territory, would
yield about half that sum, viz. six thousand five hundred, and the
Hudson's Bay Company servants, who import by the way of lake
Winipic, six thousand five hundred more.
Thus is the United-States defrauded annually of about twenty-
six thousand dollars.
From my observations, and information, I think it will be an easy
matter to prevent the smuggling of the Fond du Lac department,
by establishing a post with a garrison of one hundred men, and an
office of the customs near the mouth of the river St. Louis, where
the Fond du Lac department must enter. This is at present the
distributing point where the company have an establishment, and
the goods on being received from Kamanitiquia are embarked for
their different destinations. That point also commands the commu-
nication with Sandy lake, Leech lake, Red lake, &c. &c. I am also
of opinion, that the goods for Red river (if it is w-ithin our boundary)
would enter here, in preference to being exposed to seizure. It is
worthy of remark that the charter of the Hudson's Bay Company
extends, to all its waters, and if the British government conceive
they had authority to make such a grant, they certainly must claim
the country therein specified, which would extend far south of the
west line from the head of the lake of the Woods. The North West
Company, were about to push their trade down the Mississippi,
until they should meet the traders of Michillimackinac, but I gave
them to understand this could not be permitted;
Z. M. PIKE,.
First United States regiment of infantry..
144 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
Letters referred to page 86.
To Hugh M'Gillis, Esq. Proprietor and Agent
of the North West Company, established
at Fond du Lac.
North Wat Establishment on Lake Leech, February, 1800'.
SJR,
AS a proprietor of the North West Company, and director of the Fond
du Lac department, I conceive it my duty as an officer of the United States (in whose
territory you are) to address you solely on the subject of the many houses under your
instructions. As a member of the greatest commercial nation in the world, and of a
company long renowned for their extent of connection and greatness of- views, you
raiiimt be ignorant of the rigour of the laws of the duties of imports of a foreign power.
Mr. Jay's treaty, it is true, gave the right of trade with the savages to British
subjects in the United States territories, but by no means exempted them from paying
the duties, obtaining licences, and subscribing to all the rules and restrictions of our
laws. I find your establishments at every suitable place along the whole extent of the
south side of lake Suj)erior to its head; from thence to the source of the Mississippi,
down Ked river, and even extending to the centre of our newly acquired territory
of Louisiana, in which it will yet probably become a question between the two govern-
ments if our treaties will authorize the British subjects to enter into the Indian trade, on
the same footing aa in the other parts of our frontiers, this not being an integral part of
the United States at the time of the said treaty. Our traders to the south on the Lower
Mississippi, complain to our government with justice, that the members of the North
West Company encircle them on the frontiers of our north-west territory, and trade
with the savages upon superior terms to what they can afford, who pay the duties of
their goods imported from Europe, and subscribe to the regulations prescribed by law:
these representations have at length attracted the attention of our government to the
object in question, and with an intention to do themselves as well as their citizens
justice, they the last year took some steps to ascertain the facts, and make provision
against the growing evil. With this, some geographical, and also local objects in view,
was I despatched with discretionary orders, with a party of troops to the source of the
Mississippi. I have found, Sir, your commerce and establishments $xiei»ding beyond
our most exaggerated ideas, and in addition to the injury done our revenue by the
evasion of the duties, other acts which are more particularly injurious to the honour and
dignity of onr government. The transactions alluded to are the presenting medals of his
Britannic majesty, and Bags of his government, to the chiefs and warriors resident in
the territory of the United States. Jf political subjects are strictly prohibited to our
OP THE MISSISSIPPI. 145
traders, what would be the ideas of the executive to see foreigners making chiefs and
distributing flags, the standard of a European power? The savages being accustomed to
look on that standard which has been the only prevailing one for years, as that which
alone has authority in the country, it would not be in the least astonishing to see them re-
volt from the limited subjection which is claimed over them by the American govern-
ment, and thereby be the cause of their receiving chastisement, although necessary, yet
unfortunate, as they have been led astray by the policy of the traders of your country.
I must likewise observe, Sir, that your establishments, if properly known, would be
looked on with an eye of dissatisfaction by our government, for another reason, viz.
there being so many furnished posts ; in case of a rupture between the two powers, the
English government would not fail to make use of these as places of deposit for arms,
ammunition, &c. to be distributed to the savages who joined their arms, to the great
annoyance of our territory, and the loss of the lives of many of our citizens. Your Sags,
Sir, when hoisted in enclosed works, are in direct contradiction to the laws of nations, and
their practice in the like cases, which only admits of a foreign flag being expanded on
board of vessels, and at the residence of ambassadors or consuls.
I am not ignorant of the necessity of your being in such a position as to protect you
from the sallies of drunken savages, or the more deliberate plans of the intended
plunderer, and under these considerations have I considered your stockades. You and
the company to which you belong, must be conscious from the foregoing statement, that
strict justice would demand, and I assure you the law directs under similar circumstances,
a total confiscation of your property, personal imprisonment, and fines; but having discre-
tionary instructions, and no reason to think the conduct above noticed was dictated through
ill will or disrespect to our government, and conceiving it in some degree departing from
the character of an officer to embrace the first opportunity for executing those laws, I
am willing to sacrifice my prospect of private advantage, conscious that the government
looks not to interest but to its dignity in the transaction, i have therefore to request of you
assurances on the following heads, which, setting aside the chicanery of law, as a gentle-
man you will strictly adhere to, viz.: That you will make representations to your agents
at your head quaxters on lake .Superior, of the quantity of goods wanting the ensuing
tpring for your establishment ia the territory of the United States, time sufficient, or
as early as possible, for them to enter them at the custom house of MichiJlimackinac, and
obtain a clearance and licence to trade in due form, and that you will give immediate
instruction to all your party in tlie said territory under your direction, at no time and under
no pretence whatever, to hoist or suffer to be hoisted the English flag. If you conceive
a flag necessary, you may make use of that of the United States, it is the only one which
can be admitted. That you will on no future occasion present a flag or medal to
an Indian, hold councils with them on political subjects, or others foreign from that of
trade; but on being applied to on those heads, wiil refer them to the American agents, in-
V
146 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE
forming them that they are the only persons authorized to hold councils of a political
mature with them. There are many other subjects, such as the distribution of liquor,
&c. which would be too long to be treated of in detail; but the company will do well to
furnish themselves with our laws, regulating the commerce with the savages, and regu-
late themselves in our territories accordingly. 1 embrace this opportunity to acknow-
ledge myself and command under singular obligations to yourself and agents for .the
assistance which you have rendered us, and the polite treatment with which I have
been, lionoured. With sentiments of high respect for the establishment and yourself,
1 am, Sir,-..
Your most obedient servant,
Z. M. PIKE.
To Lieutenant Pike,
First Regiment United States Infantry.
Leech Lake, 15th February, I80G.
SIR,,
YOUR address presented cm the 6th instant, has attracted my most
serious consideration to the several objects of duties on importations, of presents made
to, and our consultations with the Indians; of enclosing our stores and dwelling houses;
and finally, of the custom of hoisting the British flag on the territory belonging
to the United States of America. I shall at as early a period as possible present the
agents of the North West Company with your representations regarding the payment of
the duties on the importation of goods to be sent to our establishments within the
boundaries of the territories of the United States, as also their-being entered at the custom
house at Michillimackinac; but I beg to be allowed to present for consideration, that
the major part of the goods necessary to be sent to the said establishment for the trade
of the ensuing winter, are now actually in our stores at Kamanitigua, our headquarters
on lake Superior, and that it would cause us vast expense and trouble to be
obliged to convey those goods' to Michillimackinac, to-be entered at the custom house
office: we therefore pray that the word of a gentleman with regard to the quantity and
quality of the said'goodsto be sent to the said establishment, may be considered as equiva-
lent to the certainty of a custom house register. Our intention has never been to injure
your traders, paying the duties established by law, and hope those, representations to
OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 14t
your government respecting our concerns with the Indians may have been dictated with
truth, and not exaggerated by envy, to prejudice our interests, and throw a stain upon
our 'character which may require time to efface from the minds of a people to whom we
must ever consider ourselves indebted for the lenity of procedure, of which the present is
so notable' a testimony. The inclosures to project our stores and dwelling-houses from
the. insults and barbarity of savage rudeness, have been erected for the security of my
property and person, in a country till now exposed to the wild will of the frantic Indians*
We never formed the smallest idea that the said inclosures might ever be useful in the
event of a rupture between the two powers, nor do we now conceive that such poor
shifts will ever be employed by the British government: in a country overshadowed with
wood, so adequate to every purpose, forts might in a short period of time be built far
superior to any stockades we may have occasion to erect.
We were not conscious, Sir, of the error I acknowledge we have been guilty of, by
exhibiting to view on your territories any standard of Great Britain. 1 will pledge
myself to your government, that I will use my utmost endeavours, as soon as possible,
to 'prevent the future display of the British flag, or the presenting of medals, or the ex-
hibiting to public view any other mark of European power, throughout the extent of the
territory known to belong to the dominion of the United States. The custom has long
been established, and we innocently and inoffensively (as we imagined) have conformed
to it till the present day. ', • . .
Be persuaded that on no consideration shall any Indian be entertained on political
subjects, or on any affairs foreign to our trade, and reference shall be made to the
American agents, should any application be made worthy such reference. And be
assured that we, as a commercial company, must find it ever our interest to interfere as
little as possible with affairs of government, in the course of trade, ignorant as we are
in this rude and distant country, of the political views of nations.
We are convinced that the inestimable advantages arising from the endeavours of
your government, to establish a more peaceful course of trade in this part of the territory
belonging to the United States, are not acquired through the mere liberality of a nation,
and are ready to contribute to the expence necessarily attending them. We are not
averse to pay the common duties established by law, and shall ever be ready to conform
ourselves to all rules and regulations of trade that may be established according to com-
mon justice.
I beg leave to be allowed to say, that we have reason to hope that every measure will
be adopted to secure and facilitate the trade with the Indians; and these hopes seem to be
confirmed beyond the smallest idea of doubt, when we see a man sent among us, who,
instead of private consideration to pecuniary views, prefers the honour, dignity, and lenity
of his government, and whose transactions are in every respect so conformable to
equity.
u 2
148 VOYAGE TO THE SOURCE, &c.
When we behold an armed force ready to chastise or protect, as necessity or policy may
direct, we know not how to express our gratitude to thai people whose only view seems
to be to promote the happiness of all, the savages that rove over the wild confines of their
domain not excepted.
It is to you, Sir, we feel ourselves most greatly indebted, whose claim to honour,
esteem, and respect will ever be held in high estimation by myself and associates. The
dangers and hardships by your fortitude vanquished, and by your perseverance overcome,
are signal, and will ever be preserved in the annals of the North West Company. Were it
solely from the consideration of those wbo have exposed their lives in a long and perilous
march, through a country where they had every distress to suffer, and many dangers to
expect (and this with a view to establish peace in a savage country,) we should think our-
selves under the most strict obligations to assist them; but we know we are in a country
where hospitality and gratitude are to be esteemed above every other virtue, and there-
fore have offered for their relief what our poor means can allow.
And, Sir, permit me to embrace the opportunity to testify, that I feel myself highly
honoured by your acceptance of such accommodations as my humble roof could afford.
With great consideration and high respect for the government of the
United States, allow me to express my esteem and regard for you.
I am, Sir,
Your most obedient servant,
(Signed) H. M'GILLISi
Of the North West Company.
JOURNAL
OF AN EXPEDITION THROUGH THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA,
PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1806 AND 1807.
ON Tuesday, the 15th of July, 1806, we sailed from the landing at
Belle Fontaine, about three o'clock, P. M. in two boats. Our party
consisted of two lieutenants, one surgeon, one sergeant, two corporals,
sixteen privates, and one interpreter. We had also under our charge
chiefs of the Osage and Paunee nations, who, with a number of
women and children, had been to Washington. These Indians had
been redeemed from captivity among the Potowatomies, and were
now to be restored to their friends at the Osage towns. The whole
number of Indians amounted to fifty-one. We ascended the river
about six miles, and encamped on the southern side behind an island.
Thi& day my boat swung round twice, once when we had a tow-rope
on shore, which it snapped off in an instant. The Indians did not
encamp with us at night. Distance advanced six miles.
Wednesday, 16th July.—We rejoined our red brethren at breakfast,
after which we again separated, and with very severe labour arrived
late in the evening opposite to the village of St. Charles, where the
Indians joined us. Distance advanced fifteen miles.
From the entrance of the Missouri, on the southern bank, the land
is low, until you arrive at Belle Fontaine, four miles from its mouth.
In this distance are several strata of soil one above the other. As the
river is cutting off the north point and making land on the south, this.
part is well timbered with oak, walnut, ash, &c. &c. From Belle Fon-
150 . TRAVELS THROUGH
taine to St. Charles, the northern side of the Missouri is low, bounded
on its banks by timbered land extending from half a mile to a mile
from the river. On the southern side the bottoms are narrow, the
hills frequently coming in on the river. Six miles below St. Charles,
on the south, in front of a village called Florissant, is a coal-hill, or
as it is termed by the French, La Charbonniere; this is one solid
stone hill, which would probably afford sufficient fuel for all the po-
pulation of Louisiana.
St. Charles is situated on the western side of the Missouri, where
the hill first joins the river, and is laid out parallel to the stream. The
main s treetis on the first bank, the second on the top of the hill. In
this street is situated a round wood tower, formerly occupied by the
Spaniards as a fort or guard-house, but now converted into a prison;
from this tower you have an extensive view of the river below. The
town consists of about eighty houses, principally occupied by In-
dian traders or their engagees ; it is the seat of justice for the district
of St. Charles.
Thursday, 17th July.—We crossed the river to learn if any com-
munications had arrived from St. Louis, and if there was any news
of the Indian enemies of the Osages. Called at Mr. James Morri-
son's, and was introduced to a Mr. Henry (of New Jersey) about
eight and twenty years of age; he spoke a little Spanish, and French
tolerably well; he wished to go with me as a volunteer. From this
place I wrote letters back to Belle Fontaine, whilst the Indians were
crossing the river'*.
A man of the name of Ramsay reported to the Indians that five
hundred Sacs, Jowas, and Reynards, were at the mouth of big
Manitou ; this gave them considerable uneasiness, and it took me
some time to do away the impression it made upon them, for I by
no means believed it. We were about sailing when my interpreter
* See Appendix, No. I.
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 151
was arrested by the sheriffs at the suit of Manuel De Liza for a debt
of between three and four hundred dollars, and was obliged to return
to St. Louis. This made it necessary for me to write another letter
to the general. We.encamped about three-fourths of a mile above
the village.
Friday, 18th July,—Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson went
with the Indians across the country to the village La Charrette. Mr
George Henry engaged under oath to accompany me on my
tour.
Wrote to the General* and enclosed him one of Henry's engagements.
After we had made our little arrangements^ we marched by land and
joined the boats (which had sailed early) at twelve o'clock. Two of
the men being sickr I steered our boat, and Mr. Henry the other, by
which means we were enabled to keep employed our full compliment
of oars, although we had put the sick men on shore. Encamped on
the northern side, about eleven o'clock at night. A tremendous thunder
storm arose, and it continued to blow and rain .with thunder and
lightning until day. Distance advanced fifteen miles. , ..
Saturday, 1f)th July.—In consequence of the ram, we did not put
off until past nine o'clock ; my sick men marched on shore. I had
some reason to suspect that one of them intended never to join us
again. At dinner time the sick man of my own boat came on
board; I then went on board the other, and we continued to run
races all day, and although this boat had hitherto kept behind, yet I
arrived at the encamping ground with her nearly half an hour be-
fore the other. The current not generally so strong as below. Dis-
tance ad van ced. fourteen miles.. .,
Sunday, 20th July.—Embarked about sun-rise. AVishing to ascer-j
tain the temperature of the water, I discovered my large thermome-
ter to be missing, which probably had fallen into the river. Passed
* See Appendix, No. II.
158 TRAVELS THROUGH
one settlement on the northern side, and after turning the point to
the south, saw two warehouses on the southern shore. We encamped
in a long reach, which bore north of west. The absentees had not
yet joined us. Distance advanced fifteen miles.
Monday, 21st July.—It commenced raining near day-break, and
continued until four o'clock in the afternoon: the rain was im-
mensely heavy, with thunder and lightning remarkably severe. This
obliged me to lay by, for if we had proceeded with our boats, we
should necessarily have exposed our baggage much more than when
at rest, for the tarpaulin could then cover all.
We set sail at a quarter past four o'clock, and arrived at the village
of la Charrette a little after dusk. Here we found Lieutenant
Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson with the Indians; also Baroney, our
interpreter, with letters from the General and our friends. Tlie wea-
ther still continued cloudy, with rain. We were received into the
house of a Mr. Chartron, and every accommodation in his power
offered us. Distance advanced six miles.
From St. Charles to the village of la Charrette, the western side we
found to be generally low, but with hills runnmg parallel at a great dis-
tance from the river: on the southern side more hilly with springs, scat-
tering settlements seen on both sides. La Charrette is the lust settle-
ment we saw on the Missouri, although there is one above, at a saline
on the western shore.
Tuesday, 22d July.—We arranged our boats, dried our loading, and
wrote letters for Belle Fontaine.
Wednesday, 23d July.—I despatched an express to the General with
advertisements relative to Kennerman, the soldier who had de-
serted *.
We embarked after breakfast, and made good progress. Lieute*
nant Wilkinson steered one boat, and I the other, in order to detach
* See Appendix, No. Ill,
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 153
all the men that we could spare on shore with the Indians. We
crossed to the southern side a litte below Shepherd river. Dr. Ro-
binson killed a deer, which was the first killed by the party. Dis-
tance advanced thirteen miles.
Thursday, 24th July.—We embarked at half past six o'clock;
weather very foggy. The Indians proceeded on shore, accompanied
by only three of my people. Lieutenant Wilkinson being a little in-
disposed, I was obliged to let Baroney steer his boat. We made
an excellent day's progress, and encamped five miles from the Gasco-
nade river: killed three deer, one bear, and three turkies. Distance
advanced eighteen miles. Only three or four of the Indians arrived;
the others encamped a small distance below.
Friday', 25th July.—We embarked at half-past six o'clock, and ar-
rived at the entrance of the Gasconade river at half-past eight
o'clock, at which place I determined to remain the day, as my In-
dians and foot people were yet in the rear, and had complained
to me of being without shoes, leggings, &c. Distance advanced five
miles.
One of our Pawnees did not arrive until late, the other had com-
municated his suspicion to me, that the Otto, who was in company,
had killed him; he acknowledged that he had proposed to him to
take out their baggage, and return to St. Louis. The real occasion
of his absence, however, was his having followed a large fresh trail
up the Gasconade a considerable distance; but finding it led from
the Missouri he examined It, and discovered horses to have been on
it; he then left it, joined ours and came in. This being generally the
route taken by the Potowatomies when they go to war against the
Osage, it occasioned some alarm. Every morning we were awakened
by the mourning of the savages, who commenced crying about day-
light, and continued their lamentation for the space of an hour. I made
enquiry of my interpreter with respect to this practice, and was in-
formed that it was a custom not only with those whoiiad recently lost
TRAVELS THROUGH)
their relatives; "but also with others, who recalled to mind the loss
of some friend, dead long since, who joined the other mourners
purely from sympathy. They appeared extremely affected, tears
ran down their cheeks, and they sobbed bitterly; but in a moment
they dry their checks and cease their cries. Their songs of grief ge-
nerally ran thus: "My dear father exists no longer, have pity on
me, oh great spirit! you see I cry for ever; dry rny tears and give
me comfort." The warriors' songs are to the following effect: "Our
enemies have slain my father, (or mother,) he is lost to me and his
family; I pray to you, oh Master of Life! to preserve me until I
revenge his death, and then do with me as thou pleasest."
From La Charrette to the Gasconade river, you find on the north low
land heavily timbered; on the south, hills, rivulets, and a number of
small creeks, with very high cane. The Gasconade is two hundred
yards wide at its entrance, and is navigable at certain seasons a hun-
dred miles. At this time it was backed by the Mississippi, but
was clear and transparent above their confluence. On the shore
opposite to their junction, commences the line between the Sac
Indians and the United States.
Saturday, 26th July.—We commenced at five o'clock to ferry the
Indians over the Gasconade, and left the mouth of this river at
half past six o'clock in the afternoon. We met here five French-
men who informed us that they had just left the Osage river, and
that it was so low they could not ascend it with their canoe. We
wrote letters and sent them back by them*.
Doctor Robinson, Baroney, Sparks, and all the Indians encamp-
ed about one league above us. Killed one bear, two deer, one otter,
three turkies, and one rackoon. Distance advanced fifteen miles.
Sunday, 2?th July.—We embarked at half past five o'clock, and
arrived at the Indians' camp at seven. They had been alarmed the
day before, and in the evening sent men back in the trace, and some
* See Appendix, No. IV.
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 155
of the chiefs sat up all night. Breakfasted with them about half
pqst three o'clock; encamped in sight of the Osage river, there being
every appearance of rain. We halted thus early in order to give
the Indians time to prepare temporary camps and to secure OUT
baggage. I went out to hunt, and firing at a deer near two of the
Indians who were in the woods, they knew the difference of the re-
port of my rifle from their guns, were alarmed, and immediately
retired to camp. Distance advanced thirteen miles.
Monday, 28th July.—Embarked at half past five o'clock, and at
half past ten arrived in the Osage river; where we stopped, discharged
our guns, and bathed. We then proceeded on about six miles, when
we waited for and conveyed the Indians across to the western shore;
then proceeded to the first island and encamped on the west,
Sans Oreille and four or five young men only coming up, the rest
encamping some distance behind. Killed one deer, and one turkey:
distance advanced nineteen miles.
From the Gasconade to the entrance of the Osage river, the
southern shore of the Missouri is hilly, but well limbered. On the
north are low bottoms and heavy timber. In the whole of this space
of the Missouri, from its entrance to the Osage river, we find it well
timbered, the shores consisting of a rich soil, and very proper for
the cultivation of all the productions of our middle and western states.
It is timbered generally with cotton wood, ash, oak, pecan, hickory,
with some elms; but the cotton wood predominates on all the made
bottoms.
Tuesday, 29th July.—All the Indians arrived very early, and the
Big Soldier, whom I had appointed the officer to regulate the march,
was much displeased that Sans Oreille and the others had leil him,
and said that for that reason he would not suffer any woman to go in
the boat, and would thus separate the party; but in truth it was
from jealousy of the men whose women went in the boat. He began
by flogging one of the young men, and was about to strike Sans
x 2
156 TRAVELS THROUGH
Oreille's wife, but was prevented by him and told that he knew he
had done wrong, but that the women were innocent. We then
conveyed them over and embarked at half past eight o'clock.
About twelve o'clock we found the Indians rafting the river, when
the first chief of the little Osage, called Tuttasuggy, (or the Wind,)
told me that the man whom the Big Soldier struck had not yet arrived
with his wife. "But that he would throw them away." As I knew
he was extremely mortified at the dissensions which appeared to
reign amongst them, I told him by no means, that one of my boats
should wait for the woman and her child, but that the man might
go to the devil as a punishment for his insubordination.
I then left Baroney with one boat and proceeded with the other.
We were called ashore by three young Indians, who had killed some
deer, and on putting them aboard I gave them about one or t\vo gills
of whiskey, which intoxicated them all. It commenced raining
about one o'clock, and continued incessantly for three hours, which
obliged us to stop and encamp. One of our men (Millar,) lost him-
self, and did not arrive until after dark. Killed five deer, one turkey,
and one rackoon. Distance advanced fourteen miles.
Wednesday, 30th July.—After the fog dispersed, I left Lieutenant
Wilkinson with the party to dry the baggage, and I went out with
Dr. Robinson and Bradley. About two o'clock we returned, set sail,
and having passed the first rapid about three miles, encamped on
the eastern shore. Killed three deer. Distance advanced five
miles.
Thursday, 31st July.—We embarked rarly, and passed several
rapids pretty well. Dined with the Indians; two of them left us
in the morning for the village, and they all had an idea of doing
the same, but finally concluded otherwise. One of the Osage, who
had left the party for the village, returned, and reported that he had
seen and heard strange Indians in the woods; this we considered as
merely a pretext to come back. I this day lost my dog and the
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA.
misfortune was the greater, as we had no other that would bring
any thing out of the water; this was the dog Mr. Fisher presented
to me at Prairie des Chiens. Killed three deer, and one turkey.
Distance advanced eighteen miles.
Friday-, 1st August.—It having rained all night, the river appeared
to have risen about six inches. We spread out our baggage to dry
but it continuing to rain by intervals all day, the things were wetter
at sun-down than in the morning; we rolled them up and left them
on the beach. We sent out two hunters in the morning, one of
whom killed three deer: the Indians killed three more.
Saturday, 2d August. The weather cleared up; the loading being
spread out to dr}r, Dr. Robinson, myself, Bradley, Sparks and
Brown, went out to hunt; we killed four deer, and the Indians two.
Having reloaded the boats we embarked at five o'clock, and pro-
ceeded about two miles. The river rose in the last twenty-four hours
four inches.
Sunday, 3d August.—Embarked early, and wishing to save the fresh
I pushed hard all day. Sparks was lost and did not join us until
night. We encamped about twenty-five paces from the river on a
sand-bar. Near day light I heard the sentry observe that the boats
had better be brought in; when I got up I found the water within
a rod of our tent, and before we could get all our things out it had
reached the tent. Distance advanced, eighteen miles. Killed nine
deer, one wild cat, one goose, and one turkey.
Monday, 4th August.—We embarked early, and continued on for
some time, not being able to find a suitable place to dry our things;
but at length stopped on the eastern shore. Here we had to ferry the
Indians over a small channel which we did not before observe; all
of them however not arriving we put off, and continued our route.
Finding our progress much impeded by our mast I unshipped it, and
stripped it of its iron, and after Lieutenant Wilkinson had carved our
158 TRAVELS THROUGH
names on it, set it adrift followed by the yards; this mast had been,
cut and made at Pine creek, on the upper Mississippi.
After proceeding some miles, we found the Indians on the western
shore, they having rafted the river; we stopped for them to cook,
after which we proceeded. Trie navigation had become very diffi-
cult from the rapidity of the current, occasioned by the rise of the
water, which rose one foot in an hour: killed two deer. Distance
advanced ten miles; weather rainy.
Tuesday, 5th August.—We lay by this day, in order to give the
Indians an opportunity to dry their baggage. Dr. Robinson and
myself, accompanied by Mr. Henry, went out to hunt; we lost the
latter about two miles from camp: after hunting some time on the
western shore, AVC concluded to raft the river, which we effected
with difficulty and danger, and hunted for some time, but without
success: we then returned to the party, and found Mr. Henry had
arrived one hour before us; he had met oneof the soldiers, who brought
him in. Today, in our tour, I passed over a remarkably large
rattle-snake as he lay coiled up, and trod so near as to touch it with
my foot, it drawing itself up to make room for my heel; Dr. Ro-
binson, who followed me, was on the point of treading on it, but by
a spring avoided it: I then turned round and touched it with my
ram-rod, but it shewed no disposition to bite, and appeared quite
peaceable; the gratitude which I felt towards it for not having bitten
me, induced me to save its life. Killed four deer: river risen thir-
teen inches; rain continued.
Wednesday, 6'th August.—We embarked at half past eight o'clock,
the weather having cleared, and presenting the appearance of a fine
day. Passed Gravel river, on the west; about three miles above
this river, the Indians left us and informed me that by keeping a
little to the south or west, they would make in fifteen miles what
would be at least thirty-five miles for us along the course of the
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 159
river. Dr. Robinson, Mr. Henry, and sergeant Ballanger, accompa-
nied them. Killed two deer. Distance advanced thirteen miles.
From the entrance of the Osage river to the Gravel river, a dist-
ance of one hundred and eighteen miles, the banks of the former
are covered with timber, and consist of a very rich soil. Small hills
with rocks alternately border the eastern and western shores: the
bottoms being very excellent soil and the country abounding in
game.
Thursday, 7th August.—Not being detained by the Indians we
were for once enabled to embark at a quarter past five o'clock. The
river having subsided since yesterday morning about four feet, we
wished to improve every moment of time previously to its entire faJh
We proceeded extremely well, passed the Saline river on the east, and
encamped opposite La Belle Roche on the western shore. This day
we passed many beautiful cliffs on both sides: saw a bear and a
wolf swimming the river. I employed myself part of the day in
translating into French a talk of Lieutenant Wilkinson's to the
Cheveux Blanche. Distance advanced twenty-one mites,
Friday, 8th August.—We embarked twenty minutes past five
o'clock; found the river had fallen about two feet during the night.
At the confluence of the Yungar with the Osage ;^iyer we break-
fasted; encamped at night on a bar. Distance advanced twenty-
one and a half miles.
From the Gravel river to the Yungar the Osage continues to ex-
hibit the appearance of a rich well timbered country. The Yungar
(or Ne-hem-gar) as termed by the Indians, derives its name from the
vast number of springs at its source: it is supposed to be .nearly as
extensive as the Osage river; is navigable for canoes one hundred
miles, and is celebrated for the abundance -of bears which are
found on its branches. The Chasseurs du Bois of Louisiana hunt on
it; they consist of Osage and Creeks, (or Muskogees) a wandering;
160 TRAVELS THROUGH
party of whom have established themselves in Louisiana, between
whom and the French hunters frequent skirmishes have passed oo
the head of this river.
Saturday, 9th August.—We embarked at five o'clock, and at half
past six met the Indians and our gentlemen. They had met with
nothing extraordinary: they had killed in their excursion seven deer
and three bears. We proceeded to an old wintering ground, where
there were eight houses, which were occupied last winter by ,
'who had not been able to proceed any higher for want of water.
Passed the Old Man's rapid, below which, on the western shore, are
some beautiful cliffs. Dined with the Indians, after which we passed
Upper Gravel river on the west; Potatoe river on the east. Sparks
went out to hunt and did not arrive at our encampment, nor did the
Indians. Distance advanced twenty-five miles.
Sundayi 10th Augmt— Embarked at quarter past five o'clock,
when the sun shone out very clearly, but in fifteen minutes it began
to rain, and continued to rain very hard until one o'clock. Passed
the Indians, who were encamped on the western shore, about half a
mile from the river, and halted for them; they all forded the river ex-
cept Sans Oreille, who brought his wife up to the boats, and informed
me that Sparks had encamped with them, but had left them to return
in search of us. We proceeded after breakfast: Sparks arrived
just at the moment we were embarking.
The Indians traversing the country on the east, had sent Sparks
with Sans Oreille. About two o'clock, A. M. split a plank in the
bottom of the batteau, unloaded and turned her up; repaired th«
breach, and continued on the route. By four o'clock found the
Indians behind a large island; we made no stop and they followed
us. We encamped together on a bar, where we proposed halting
to dry our corn, &c. Killed four deer: distance advanced, eighteen
and a half miles.
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 161
Monday, 11th August.—We remained here to dry our corn and
baggage. This" morning we had a match at shooting: the prize
offered to the successful person was a jacket and a twist of tobacco,
which I myself was so fortunate as to win; I made the articles*
however, a present to the young fellow who waited on me. After
this, taking Huddleson with me, I went out to hunt. Having
travelled about twelve miles, we arrived at the river almost ex-
hausted with thirst: I here indulged myself by drinking plentifully
of the water, and was rendered so extremely unwell by it, that I
was scarcely capable of pursuing my route to the camp. On arriv-
ing opposite to it, I swam the river, from which I experienced
considerable relief. The party informed me that they had found
lhe"heat oppressive, and the mercury at sun-down was at 25° Reau-
meur. This day I saw trout for the first time west of the Alleg-
hany mountains. Reloaded our boats, and finished two new oars
which were wanted.
Tuesday, 12th August.—Previously to our embarkation, which
took place at half past five o'clock, I was obliged to convince my
red brethren, that, if I protected them, I would not suffer them to
plunder my men with impunity: for the chief had got one of my
lads' fur cap attached to his baggage, and notwithstanding it was
marked with the initials of the soldier's name, he refused to give it
up; on which I requested the interpreter to tell him, "that I had
no idea that he had purloined it, but supposed some other person
had attached it to his baggage; but that knowing it to be my
soldier's, I requested him to deliver it up, or I should be obliged to
take other measures to obtain it." This had the desired effect, or
I certainly should have put my threats into execution, from this prin-
ciple, formed by experience during my intercourse with Indians,
that if you have justice on your side, and do not enforce it, they
universally despise you.
v
162 TRAVELS THROUGH
When we stopped for dinner one of my men took his gun and
went out: not having returned when we were ready to re-embark, I
left him. Passed the Indians twice when they were crossing the
river. Passed some very beautiful cliffs on the western shore;
also, Vermillion and Grand rivers, the latter of which is a large
stream.
Immediately after encamping, a thunder-squall came on, which
blew overboard my flag-staff and a number of articles of my
clothing, which were on the top of the cabin, and sunk them im-
mediately. Being much fatigued, and the bank difficult of ascent,
I lay down in the cabin without supper, and slept all night: it con-
tinued to rain. The man I left on shore arrived on the opposite
bank in the night, having killed two deer, but was obliged to leave
the largest behind; finding he was not to be sent for, he concealed
his gun and deer and swam the river. Distance advanced twenty-
four miles.
Wednesday, 13th August.—It continued to rain. In the morning
sent a boat over for Sparks's gun and deer. Embarked at half past
nine o'clock. Stopped to dine at two: during the time we halted,
the river rose over the flat bar on which we were; this, if we had no
other proof, would convince us we were near the head of the river,
as the rain must have reached it. We made almost a perfect circle,
so that at night I do not believe we were three miles from where we
encamped last night. This day for the first time we saw prairie hills.
Distance advanced thirteen miles.
Thursday, 14th August.—Embarked at half past five o'clock; passed
the park, which is ten miles round, and not more than three-quarters
of a mile across, bearing from S. 5° E. to due N. At its head we
breakfasted, and just as we were about to put off, we saw and
brought to a canoe, manned with three engagees of Mr. «•-•;
who informed us that the Little Osage had marched a war party
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 16$
against the Kanses, and the Grand Osage a party against our citizens
on the Arkansaw river. Wrote by them to the general and all
friends*.
Gave the poor fellows some whiskey and eight quarts of corn, they
having had only two turkies for four days. We left them and pro-
ceeded very well in the afternoon, and encamped on an island above
Turkey island. Distance advanced, twenty-eight miles.
Shortly after we left the Yungar river, the Osage became nar-
rower, and evidently shewed the diminution occasioned by the loss
of the waters of the former stream. On the eastern shore is a pond
of water about twenty paces from the bank, half a mile -in cir-
cumference; it is elevated at least twenty feet above the surface
of the river: this appeared the more singular, as the soil seemed to
be sandy, whence it might be concluded that the water of the pond
would speedily discharge through the soil into the river; but there
appeared to be no reason for any such deduction. From hence to
a few miles below the park, the banks of the river continued as usual.
We now, for the first time, were entertained with the sight of prairie
land, but it was still interspersed with clumps of wood land, which
diversified the prospect. In this district the cliffs, which generally
bordered one of the sides of the river, were covered with the largest
and most beautiful cedars I ever beheld.
Friday, 15th August.—We embarked at five o'clock, and at eight
met the Indians and the gentlemen who accompanied them; found
all well: they had been joined by their friends and relatives from the
village, with horses to transport their baggage. Lieutenant Wilkin-
son informed me that their meeting was very tender and affectionate.
"Wives throwing themselves into the arms of their husbands; pa-
rents embracing their children, and children their parents; brothers
and sisters meeting, one from captivity, the others from the
* See Appendix, No. V.
T 2
364 TRAVELS THROUGH
towns; at the same time returning thanks to the GOOD GOD
for having brought them once more together." In short, the
tout ensemble was such as might have made polished society blush,
when compared with these savages, in whom the passions of
the mind, either joy, grief, fear, anger, or revenge, have their full
scope. Why can we not correct the baneful passions, Avithout
weakening the good? Sans Oreille made them a speech, in which he
remarked, " Osage, you now see your wives, your brothers, your
daughters, your sons, redeemed from captivity. "Who did this?
"Were they the Spaniards? No! The French? No! Had either of those
people been governors of the country, your relatives might have
rotted in captivity, and you never would have seen them more. But
the Americans stretched forth their hands, and they are restored to
you! What can you do in return for all this goodness? Nothing.
All your lives would not suffice to repay their bounty." This man
had children in captivity, not one of whom were we able to obtain
for him!
The chiefs then requested that Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr.
Robinson might be permitted to accompany them by land, which I
consented to. AVrote a letter to the Cheveu Blanc by Mr. Wil-
kinson. When we parted (after delivering the Indians their bag-
gage) Sans Oreille put an Indian on board to hunt, or obey any other
commands I might have for him. We stopped at eleven o'clock to
dry our baggage; found our biscuit and crackers almost all ruined.
Put off at half past four o'clock, and encamped at three quarters
past five. Distance advanced fifteen and a half miles.
Saturday, iGth August,—We embarked at five o'clock, and proceed-
ed extremely well in the barge to a French hunting camp, (evacuated)
twelve miles to breakfast: the battcau coming up late, we exchanged
hands. About twelve o'clock passed the Grand Fork, which is equal
in size to the branch of the river on which we pursued our route.
Waited to dine at the rocks called the Swallow's Nest on the western
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 103
shore, above the Forks. The batteau having gained nearly half an
hour, the crews are convinced that it is not the boat but the men,
Avho make the difference. Each took their own boat, after which
we proceeded very well, the water being good and the men in spirits.
Saw one elk on the shore, also met an old man alone hunting, from
whom we obtained no information of consequence. Encamped on
the western shore at Mine river: passed the place where the chief
called the Belle Oiseau and others were killed*. Distance advanced
thirty-seven miles.
Sunday, 17ih August.—We embarked at five o'clock, and proceed-
ed twelve miles to breakfast; at four o'clock arrived at ten French
houses on the eastern shore, where then resided a Sac, who was
married to an Osage woman, and spoke French only. We after-
wards passed the position, where Mr. Chouteau formerly had his fort,
not a vestige of which was remaining; the spot being only marked
by the superior growth of vegetation. Here the river bank is one
solid bed of stone coal; just below which is a very shoal and rapid
ripple. From hence to the village of the Grand Osage the distance
is nine miles across a large prairie, but by water fifty. We came about
two miles above, and encamped on the western shore. This day the
river has been generally bounded by prairies on both sides. Distance
advanced forty-one and a half miles.
Monday, 18th August.—We put off at half past five o'clock. Stopped
at nine o'clock to breakfast. Passed the second fork of the river at
twelve o'clock, the right hand fork bearing north about, thirty yards
* The Belle Oiseau was killed by the Sacs in thc year 180-1, in a boat of Maauel de
Liza, when on his way down to St. Louis, in order to join the first deputation of his
nation, who were forwarded to the seat of government by governor Lew io. A particular
relation of the event has no doubt been given by that gentleman. This chief had a son
who accompanied me to the Pawnee nation, who for his honourable deportment, attach-
ment to our government, amiableness of disposition, and the respect and esteem with
which he was held by his compeers, is entitled to the attention of our agents to his
nation.
166 TRAVELS THROUGH
wide, the left (the one we pursued) N. 60° W. and not more than fifty
or sixty feet in width, very full of old trees, &c. but having plenty of
water. Observed the road where the chiefs and Lieut. Wilkinson had
crossed. We proceeded until one o'clock, when we were halted by a
large drift quite across the river. Despatched Baroney to the village
of the Grand Osage, to procure horses to take our baggage nearer
to the towns. Unloaded our boats, and in about two hours Lieut.
Wilkinson with Tattassuggy arrived at our camp: the former of
whom presented me with an express from the General*, and letters
from my friends. The chiefs remained at our camp all night. I
was attacked by a violent head-ache. It commenced raining, and
continued with great force until day. Distance advanced nineteen
miles and a quarter.
Tuesday, 19th August.—We commenced very early to arrange our
baggage, but had not finished at one o'clock, when the chief of the
Grand Osage and forty or fifty men of his village arrived with
horses. We loaded and took our departure for the place where
Manuel de Liza had his establishment, at which we arrived' about
four o'clock, and commenced pitching, our encampment near the
edge of the prairie. I was here informed that three men had
arrived from St. Louis, sent by Manuel de Liza: I despatched
Lieutenant Wilkinson to the village with Baroney, who brought
to camp the man who had charge of the others from St. Louis;
he having no passport, I detained him for farther considera-
tion.
Our reception by the Osage was flattering, and particularly by
the Cheveu Blanc or White Hair, and our fellow travellers. This
evening there arrived in the village of the Grand Osage an express
from the Arkansaw; who brought intelligence, that a boat ascend-
_ing that river had been fired on, and had had two white men kill-
See Appendix; No. VI.
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 16Y
ed and two wounded, and that the brother-in-law of the Che-
veu Blanc, who happened to be on board, was also killed.
This put the whole village in mourning.
Wednesday, 20th August,—About twelve o'clock I despatched
Baroney for the chiefs of the Grand village, in order to give the
general's parole to the Cheveu Blanc; also a young man to the
village of the Little Osage. The Cheveu Blanc and his people
arrived about three o'clock, and after waiting some time for the
Wind and his people, I just informed the chiefs that I had merely
assembled them to deliver the parole of the general, and present the
marks of distinction intended for the Cheveu Blanc and his son;
at the same time hanging a grand medal round the neck of the latter.
The packets committed to my charge for the relations of the deceased
Osages, were then delivered to them; the widows making the distribu-
tion. It must be remarked, that I had merely requested the Cheveu
Blanche to come with his son and receive the general's message; but
instead of coming with a few chiefs, he was accompanied by one hun-
dred and eighty-six men, to all of whom we were obliged to give some-
thing to drink. When the council was over we mounted our horses
and rode to the village: I halted at the quarters of the chief, where
we were regaled with boiled pumpkins; we then went to two differ-
ent houses, and were invited to many others, but declined, promis-
ing to pay them a visit previous to my departure and to spend the
whole day with them; we then returned to camp. After enquiring of
the Cheveu Blanc if the men of Manuel de Liza had any ostensible
object in view, he informed me that they had only said to him that
they expected Manuel would be up to trade in the autumn. I con-
cluded to take the deposition of Babtiste Larme as to the manner in
which he was employed by Manuel de Liza, and forward the same
to Dr. Brown and the Attorney General of Louisiana, and per-
mitted the men to return to St. Louis, as it was impossible for me to
detach a party with them as prisoners.
368 .' TRAVELS THROUGH
Thursday, 21st August.—In the morning the Cheveu Blanc paid
us a visit, and brought a present of corn, meal, and grease: we
invited him, his son, and son-in-law to breakfast with us, and gave
his companions something to eat. I then wrote a number of letters
to send by express, and enclosed the deposition of Larme. In tlie
afternoon we rode to the village of the Little Osage, and \vere
received by our fellow travellers with true hospitality. Returned in
the evening, when a tremendous storm of rain, thunder, and light-
ning commenced, and continued with extraordinary violence until
half past nine o'clock. It was with great difficulty we were enabled
to keep our tents from blowing down. The place prepared for an
observatory was carried away.
Friday, 22d August.—Preparing in the morning for the council, and
committing to paper the heads of the subjects on which I intended to
speak. The chiefs of the Little Osage arrived about one o'clock;
also the interpreter of the Grand Osage, who pretended to say that
the Grand Osage had expected us at their village with the Little
Osage. The Cheveu Blanc arrived with his chiefs. The ceremony
of the council being arranged, I delivered them the general's parole
which I had received by express. My reason for not delivering it un-
til this time was that I might have the two villages together, as it
equally concerned both. After this I explained at large the will,
wishes, and advice of their Great Father, and the mode which I con-
ceived to be the most proper for carrying them into effect. The
Cheveu Blanc replied in a few words, and promised to give me a
full answer to-morrow: the Wind spoke to the same purport. After
which the Cheveu Blanche addressed himself to the Wind as
follows: "I am shocked at your conduct Tuttassuggy, you who
have lately come from the States, and should have been wise; but you
led the redeemed captives, with an officer of the United States, to
your village, instead of bringing them through my town in the first
instance." To this the Wind made no reply, but left his seat shortly
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 169
after, under pretence of giving some orders to his young men. I
conceived this reprimand intended barely to show us the superiority
of the one, and inferiority of the other; and to have originated
from an altercation of Lieutenant Wilkinson with the Cheveu
Blanc, in which allusions were made by the former, to the more
friendly conduct of the Little Chief (or the Wind) when compared
with that of the latter.
I must here observe, that when the chiefs and prisoners left me,
accompanied by Lieutenant Wilkinson, I did not know the geogra-
phical situation of the two villages, but conceived, that in going to
the Little village, they would pass by the Grand village, and of
course that Lieutenant Wilkinson and the chief would arrange the
affair properly.
Saturday, 23d August.—I expected to have received from the
chiefs their answers to my demands, but had an express from
both villages informing me, that they wished to defer them until to-
morrow. I then adjusted my instruments, took equal altitudes,
and a meridianal altitude of the sun; but owing to flying clouds
missed the immersions of Jupiter's Satellites.
Sunday, 24th August.—Was nearly half the day in adjusting the line
of culmination in the telescope sights of my theodolite. It began to
grow cloudy before evening, and although the sky was not entirely
covered, I was so unfortunate as to miss the time of an immersion,
and (although clear in the intermediate period) an emersion also. I
was informed by Baroney that the Little village had made up eleven
horses for us. In the evening, however, the interpreter accompanied
by the son-in-law and son of the Cheveu Blanc came to camp,
and informed me, that there were no horses to be procured in the
village of the Great Osage.*
* The following is the substance of the conversation held on this occasion:
The son-in-law spoke as follows: "I am come to give you the news of our village
e
170 TRAVELS THROUGH
Monday, 25th August.—In the morning we were visited by the
Gheveu Blanc and three or four of his chiefs, who were pleased
to accede to my demands. He found much difficulty in informing
me, that in all his village he could only raise four horses, but said
that we should be accompanied by his son and son-in-law. I then
expressed to him the difference of our expectations from the reality.
We remained until after twelve o'clock, when I went to the Little
Osage village, and was received with great friendship by the chief-
Remained all night at the house of Tuttassuggy. Took the census.
Tuesday, 'J6th August.—Rose early, and found my friends in
council, which was merely relative lo our horses. The chief then?
declared their determination to me, and said that he himself gave me-
one horse, and lent me eight more to carry our baggage to the Paw-
nees.
Sold the old batteau for one hundred dollars in merchandize,
which I conceived infinitely preferable to leaving her to the uncer-
tain safe-guard of the Indians. About this time we received the
news, that the party of Potowatomies were discovered to be near
which is unfortunate for us; our chief having assembled his young men and warriors,
and proposed to them to furnish horses, 8tc. they have generally refused him, but I, who
am the principal man after the Cheveu Blanc, will accompany you."
The son, "Our young men and warriors will not take pity on my father, nor on me,
nor on you, and have refused to comply with your request. But I will accompany you
with two horses to carry, provision for your voyage."
The interpreter; "The Cheveu Blanc was ashamed to bring you this answer, but wil1
again assemble his village, and to-morrow will come himself and give you the answer."
I replied: "That I had made the demand without explanation, merely to let the
Osage act agreeably to their inclination, in order that we might see what disposition,
they would manifest towards us. But why do I ask of their, chiefs to follow .me to the.
Pawnees; is it for our good or their own? is it not to make peace with the Kanses, to put
their wives and children out of danger? As to the horses which they may furnish us,
I will pay them for their hire; but it is uncertain whether I can pay them here, or give
them an order on the superintendant of Indian affairs at St. Louis; but this I do not •;
now wish .them to be made acquainted with."
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 171
the towns; I gave them the best advice I could, and then returned
to our camp.
Wednesday, 27th August.—Spent in arranging our baggage for the
horses. Received four horses from the Little village, and two from
the Grand village. In the evening Lieutenant Wilkinson rode to the
latter. I observed two immersions* of Jupiter's Satellites.
Thursday, 28th August.—Wrote to the Secretary at War, and the
General; and made arrangements for our departure. Visited by the
Wind, and Sans Oreille.
Friday, 2Qth August—Forenoon occupied in writing letters. In the
afternoon Dr. Robinson and myself went to the Grand village, at
which we saw the great medicine dance. Remained at the village
all night.
Saturday, 30th August—Returned to the camp after settling all
my affairs at the town. Sealed up our despatches, and sent off the
General's express.*
In the afternoon we were visited by the principal men of the
Little village, and the chief, to whom I presented a flag, and made
the donations which I conceived requisite to the different Indians,
on account of horses, &c.
Sunday, 31st August.—Arranging our packs, and loading our
horses, in order to fit our loads, as we expected to march on the
morrow. Up late writing letters.
Monday, 1st September.—Struck our tents early in the morning,
and commenced loading our horses. We now discovered that an
Indian had stolen a large black horse, which the Cheveu Blanc
had presented to Lieutenant Wilkinson. I mounted a horse to
pursue him, but the interpreter went to town, and the chiefs wife
sent another in its stead. We left this place about twelve o'clock,
with fifteen loaded horses. Our party consisting of two lieutenants,
See Appendix, No. VII.
Z2
172 . TRAVELS THROUGH
sone doctor, two sergeants, one corporal, fifteen privates, two inter-
preters, three Pawnees, and four chiefs of the Grand Osage, amount-
ing in all to thirty warriors, and one woman. We crossed the Grand
Osage fork, and a prairie, N. 80* W. five miles to the fork of the
Little Osage: distance eight miles. Joined by Sans Oreille and
seven Little Osagcs, all of whom I equipped for the march.
The country round the Osage villages is one of the most beautiful
that the eye ever beheld. The three branches of the river, viz. the large
eastern fork, the middle one, (up which we ascended) and the north-
ern all winding round and past the villages, giving the advan-
tages of wood and water, and at the same time the extensive prairie,
crowned with rich and luxuriant grass and flowers, gently diversi-
fied by rising swells and sloping lawns, presenting to the warm
imagination the future seats of husbandry, the numerous herds of
domestic animals, which are no doubt destined to crown with joy
these happy plains. From the last village on the Missouri to the
prairie on the Osage river, we found plenty of deer, bears, and some
turkies; from thence to the towns are some elk and deer, but near
the villages they become scarce.
The Osage Indians appear to have emigrated from the north and
west, and from their speaking the same language with the Kanses,
Ottoes, Missouries, and Mahaws, together with one great similarity
of manners, morals, and customs, there is left no room to doubt,
that they were originally the same nation; but separated by those
great laws of nature, self-preservation, the love of freedom, and the
ambition of various characters, so inherent in the breast of man.
As nations purely erratic must depend solely on the chase for sub-
sistence, (unless pastoral, which is not the case with our savages)
it requires large tracts of country to afford food for a very
limited number of souls; consequently self-preservation obliges them
to expand themselves over a large and extensive district. The power'
of certain chiefs becoming unlimited, and their rule severe, added to •*
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 173
the passionate love ofliberty, and the ambition of their young, bold,
and daring characters, who step forward to head the mal-contents,
and like the tribes of Israel, to lead them through the wilderness to
a new land, the land of promise, which flowed with milk and honey
(alias, abounding with deer and buffalo); these characters soon
succeeded in leading forth a new colony, and in process of time
establishing a new nation. The Mahaws, Missouries, and Ottoes,
remained on the banks of the Missouri river, such a distance up as
to be within the reach of that powerful enemy, the Sioux, who, with
the aid of the small-pox, which the former nations unfortunately
contracted by their connection with the whites, have reduced the
Mahaws, formerly a brave and powerful nation, to a mere cypher,
and obliged the Ottoes and Missouries, who now form but one
nation, to join their forces. The Kanses and Osages came farther
to the east, and thereby avoided the Sioux, but fell into the hands
of the Jowas, Sacs, Kickapoos, Potowalomies, Dele wares, Shawo-
noes, Chreokees, Clnckasaws, Chaetaws, Arkansaws, Chaddoes, and
letans; and what astonished me extremely, was, that they have not
been entirely destroyed by those nations: but this must be attributed
only to their ignorance of the enemy's force, their want of concert,
wars between themselves, and the great renown the invaders always
acquire by the boldness of the enterprise, on the mind of the
invaded.
The government of the Osages is oligarchical, but stil I partakes of the
nature of a republic; for although the power is nominally vested in a
small number of chiefs, yet they never undertake any matter of im-
portance without first assembling the warriors, and proposing the
subject in council, there to be discussed and decided on by a
majority. Their chiefs are hereditary in most instances, but there
are many men who have risen to more influence than those of
illustrious ancestry, by their activity and boldness in war. Although
there is no code of laws, yet there is a tacit acknowledgment of the •
174 TRAVELS THROUGH
right which some have to command on certain occasions; whilst
others are bound to obey, and even to submit to corporal punish-
ment, as was instanced in the affair related in my diary of the 29th
of July, when Has-ha-ke-da-tungar (or the Big Soldier) whom I had
made a partizan to regulate the movements of the Indians, flogged
a, young Indian with arms in his hands. On the whole, the govern-
ment may be termed an oligarchical republic, where the chiefs pro-
pose, and the people decide on all public acts.
The manners of the Osage are different from those of any nation
I ever saw, (except those before-mentioned of the same origin)
having their people divided into classes, all the bulk of the nation
being warriors and hunters, the terms being almost synonymous
with them; the rest are divided into two classes, cooks and doctors,
the latter of whom likewise exercise the functions of priests or
•magicians, and have great influence on the councils of the nation,
by their pretended divinations, interpretations of dreams, and magi-
cal performances, an illustration of which will be better given by
the following incident, which took place during my stay. Having
had all the doctors, or magicians, assembled in the lodge of Ca-ha-
ga-tonga, (or Cheveu Blanc) and about five hundred spectators, they
had two rows of fires prepared, around the spot where the sacred
band was stationed. They commenced the tragic comedy, by putting
a large butcher's knife down their throats, the blood appearing to
run during the operation very naturally. The scene was continued
by putting sticks through their nose, swallowing bones, and taking
them out of the nostrils, &c.: at length one fellow demanded of me
what I would give if he would run a stick through his tongue, and let
another person cut off the piece? I replied, a .shirt; he then appa-
rently performed his promise seemingly with great pain,forcing a stick
through his tongue, and then giving, a knife to abye-stander, who ap-
peared to cut oft' the piece, which he held to the light for the satisfac-
tion .of the audience, then joined it to his tongue, and by a magical
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 175
charm, healed the wound immediately. On demanding of me what I
thought of the performance? I replied, I would give him twenty shirts,
if he would let me cut off the piece from his tongue. This dis-
concerted him a great deal, and I was sorry I made the observa-
tion.
The cooks are either for the general use, or attached particularly
to the family of some great man;, and what is the more singular is,
that frequently persons who have been great warriors, and brave
men, having lost all their families by disease or in war, and them-
selves becoming old and infirm, frequently take up the pofession of
a cook, in which they do not carry arms, and are supported by the
public, or by their particular patron. They likewise exercise the func-
tions of town criers, calling the chiefs to council, or to feasts; and if
any particular person is wanted, you employ a crier, who goes through
the village calling his name, and informing him he is wanted at such
a lodge..
When received into the O'sage village, you immediately present
yourself at the lodge of the chief, who receives you as his guest,
where you generally eat first, after the old patriarchal style; you
are then invited to a feast by all the great men of the village,
and it would be a.great insult not to comply, at least so far as ta
taste of their victuals. In one instance I was obliged to taste of
fifteen different entertainments in the same afternoon. You will
hear the cooks crying, Come and eat, such a one gives a feast, come
and eat of his bounty. Their dishes were generally boiled sweet
corn in buffalo 'grease, or boiled meat and pumpkins; but Sans
Oreille (or Tetobah) treated me with some tea in a wooden dish,
new horn spoons, boiled meat and crullers; he had been in the
United States.
Their towns hold more people in the same space of ground than
any place I ever saw; their lodges being posted with scarcely any re-
gularity, each individual building in the manner, direction and dimen-
sions that suit him best; by which means they frequently leave only./
176 TRAVELS THROUGH
room for a single man to squeeze between them. Added to this, they
nave pens for their horses, all within the village, into which they al-
ways drive them at night, in case they think there is any reason to
believe an enemy to be lurking in the vicinity. The Osage lodges
are generally constructed with upright posts, put firmly in . the
ground, about twenty feet in height, with a crotch at the top. They
are generally about twelve feet distant from each other. In the
crotch of these posts are put the ridge poles, over which are bent
small poles, the ends of which are brought down and fastened to a
row of stakes, of about fiye feet in height; these are fastened to-
gether with three horizontal bars, and form the flank walls of the
lodge. The gable ends are generally broad slabs, and rounded off to
the ridge pole. The whole of the building and sides are covered with
matting made of rushes of two or three feet in length, and four feet
in width, which are joined together, and entirely exclude the rain. The
doors are in the side of the building, and there is generally one on.
each side; the fires are made in holes in the centre of the lodge, the
smoke ascending through appertures left in the roof for the purpose.
At one end of the dwelling is a raised platform about three feet from
the ground, which is covered with bear skins, and generally holds
all the little choice furniture of the master, and on this repose his
honourable guests. In fact, with neatness and a pleasing com-
panion, they compose a very comfortable and pleasant summer
habitation ; but they are left in the winter for the woods: they vary
in length from thirty-six to one hundred feet.
The Osage nation is divided into three villages, and in a few years
you may say nations, viz. the Grand Osage, the Little Osage, and those
of the Arkansaw. The Little separated from the Grand Osage about
two years since; and their chiefs, on obtaining permission to lead
fort a colony from the grand council of the nation, moved on to the
Missouri; but after some years, finding themselves too hard pressed
by their enemies, they again obtained leave to return and put them-
selves under the protection of the Grand X'ilkge, and settled down
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 177
about six miles off. The Arkansas schism was effected by Mr,
Pierre Chouteau, ten or twelve years ago, in revenge of Mr. Manuel
de Liza, who had obtained from the Spanish government the exclu-
sive trade of the Osage nation by the way of the Osage river, after-
it had been in the hands of M. Chouteau for nearly twenty years;
the latter leaving the trade of the Arkansaw, thereby nearly ren-
dered abortive, the exclusive privilege of his rival. He has been
vainly promising to the government, that he would bring them back
to join the Grand village, but his reception at the Arkansaw village
must have nearly cured him of that idea. And in fact every reason
induces a belief, that the other villages are much more likely to join
the Arkansaw, which is daily becoming more powerful, than the
latter return to its ancient residence; for the Grand and Little Osage
are both obliged to proceed to the Arkansaw every winter to kill the
summer provision: all the nations with whom they are now at war
are besides situated to the westward of that river, from whence they
get all their horses. These inducements are such, that the young,
the bold, and the enterprising are daily emigrating from the Osage
village to the Arkansaw village. In fact, it would become the
interest of our government to encourage that emigration, if they in-
tended to promote the extension of the settlement of Upper
Louisiana; but their true policy is to use every method to prevent
their elongation from the Missouri.
They are considered by the nations to the south and west of
them, as a brave and warlike people, but are by no means a match
for the northern nations, who make use of the rifle, and can combat
them two for one, whilst they again may fight those armed with
bows, arrows, and lances, at the same disproportion. The humane
policy which the United States have held forth to the Indians
of accommodating their differences, and acting as mediators between,
them, has succeeded to a miracle with the Osage of the Grand
village and the Little Osage. They have by this means become a
A A
•ITi TRAVELS THROUGH
Nation <of t]uakcrs, E& ft Aspects the nations to the north and east of
them, at the same time that they continue to make war on the naked
aftd defenceless savages of the Irefst. An instance of their forbear*
Mice was exhibited by an attack made on a hunting party of the
Littte Osage some time since, on the grand river of the Osage, by a
party of PotowatomreS, Who crossed the river Missouri by the
Saline, and found the women and children alone and defenceless.
The men, fifty or sixty in number, having found plenty of deer th6
day before, had encamped out all night. The enemy struck the
camp about ten o'clock in the morning, killed all the women and boys
\vho made resistance, also some infants, the whole number amount-
ing to thirty-four, and led into captivity near sixty, forty-six of whom
Vere afterwards recovered by the United States, and sent under my
protection to the village. When the men returned to the camp)
they found their families all destroyed or taken prisoners; my narra-
tor had his wife and four children killed on the spot! and yet in
obedience to the injunction of their "Great Father" they forbore to
revenge the blow! As an instance of the great influence the French
formerly had over this nation, the following anecdote may be interest*
ing: Chtoka (or Wet Stone) a Little Osage, said, "he was at
Braddecks de Feal, with all the warriors who could be spared froili
both villages; that they were engaged by Mr. M'Cartie, who com*.
manded at fort Chautres, and who supplied them with powder and
ball; that the general place of rendezvous was near a lake and large
fall, (suppose Niagara) the Kanses did not arrive until after the battle,
but that the Ottoes were present; they were absent from their
villages seven months, and were obliged to eat their horses on their
feturh."
The Osage raise large quantities of corn, beans, and pumpkins,
which they manage with the greatest economy, in order to make them
last from year to year; all the agricultural labour is done by women.
If the government think it expedient to establish factories for tire
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 179
Grand and Little villages, equi-distant from both, which would
answer for either the other establishment should be on the Arkan-
saw, near the entrance of the Verdigrise river*, for the Arkansaw
Osage.
Tuesday, 2*1 September.—Marched at six o'clock, halted at ten,
and at two o'clock on the side of the Creek, our route having been
all the time on its borders. I was here informed by a young Indian,
that Mr. Chouteau had arrived at the towns. I conceived it proper
for me to return, which I did, accompanied by Baroney, first to the
Little village, whence we were accompanied by the Wind to the
Grand village, where we remained all night at the lodge of the
Cheveu Blanc. Mr. Chouteau gave us all the news; after which
I scrawled a letter to the General and my friends.
Wednesday, 3d September.—Rose early and went to the Little
village to breakfast. After giving my letters to Mr. Henry, and
arranging my affairs, we proceeded and overtook our party at two
o'clock. They had advanced from their first camp about four miles.
Our horses being much fatigued, AVC concluded to remain all night:
sent out our red and white hunters, who, together, only killed two
turkies. Distance advanced four miles.
Thursday, 4th September.—When about to march in the morning,
one of our horses was observed to be missing; we left Sans
Oreille with the two Pawnees to search for him, and proceeded till
about nine o'clock, then stopped until twelve, and afterwards marched
again; in about half an hour I was overtaken and informed that
Sans Oreille had not been able to find our horse; upon which we
encamped and sent two horses back for the load. One of the
Indians being jealous of his wife, sent her back for the village.
After making the necessary notes, Dr. Robinson and myself took
* As stated by Lieutenant Wilkinson. See .Appendix, No. X.
A A 2
180 TRAVELS THROUGH
our horses, and followed the course of the little stream, until we
arrived at the Grand river, which was distant about six miles. We
here found a most delightful bason of clear water, of twenty-five
paces diameter, and about one hundred in circumference, in which
we bathed; found it deep and delightfully pleasant. Nature scarcely
ever formed a more beautiful place for a farm. We returned to
camp about dusk, when I was informed that some of the Indians
had been dreaming, and wished to return. Killed one deer, one
turkey, and one rackoon. Distance advanced thirteen miles.
Friday, 5th September.—In the morning our Little Osage Indians
all came to a determination to return; and, much to my surprise,
Sans Oreilie amongst the rest. I had given an order on the chiefs
•for the lost horse to be delivered to Sans Orcille's wife, previously to
my knowing that he Avas going back, but I took his gun from him,
and from all the others. In about five miles we struck a beautiful
hill, which bears south on the prairie; its elevation I supposed to
be one hundred feet. From its summit the view is sublime, to the
east and south-east. We waited on this hill to breakfast, and had to
send two miles for water. Killed a deer on the rise, which svas
soon roasting before the fire. Here another Indian expressed his
wish to return, and take his horse with him; which, as we had so
few, I could not allow; for he had already received a gun for the
use of it. I told him he might return, but his horse would go to the
Pawnees. We marched, leaving the Osagc trace which we had
hitherto followed, and crossed the hills to a creek which was almost
dry; descended it to the main river, where we dined. The discon-
tented Indian came up, and put on an air of satisfaction and con-
tent. We again marched about six miles further, and encamped at
the head of a small creek, about half a mile from the water. Dis-
tance advanced nineteen miles.
Saturday, 6th September.—We marched at half past six o'clock,
and arrived at a large fork of the Little Osage river, where we break-
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 181
*.
fasted. In the holes in the creek we discovered many fish, which,
i'rom the stripes on their bellies and their spots, I supposed to be
trout and bass; they were twelve inches long. This brought to
mind the necessity of a net, which would have frequently afforded
subsistence to the whole party. We halted at one o'clock, and re-
mained until four. Being told that we could not arrive at any water,
we here filled our vessels. At five o'clock arrived at the dividing
ridge between the water of the Osagc and Arkansaw, or White
river; the dry branches of which intersect within twenty yards of
each other. The prospect from the dividing ridge, to the east and
south-east, is sublime. The prairie rising and falling in regular
swells, as far as the sight can extend, produces a very beautiful ap-
pearance. We left our course, and struck down to the south-west,
on a small creek, or rather a puddle of water. Distance advanced
twenty miles.
Sunday^ 7th September.—We killed one deer at half past six
o'clock, before which we had a difficulty with the son of the chief,
which was accommodated. At nine o'clock we came on a large
fork, and stopped for breakfast. Proceeded on, and encamped on a
fine stream, where we swam our horses, and bathed ourselves. Dis-
tance advanced fifteen miles. Killed four deer.
Monday, 8th September.—Marched early, and arrived at a grand
fjrk of the White river. The Indians were all discontented, we had
taken the wrong ford; but, as they were dispersed through the
woods, we could not be governed by their movements. Previously
to our leaving the camp, the son of the Cheveu Blanc proposed
returning, and offered no other reason than that he felt too lazy to
perform the route. The reasons I urged were ineffectual to pre-
vent his going; and he departed with his hunter, who deprived us
of one horse. His return left us without any chief or man of con-
sideration, except the son of the Belle Oiseau, who was but a lad
The former appeared to be a discontented young fellow, and filled
18* TRAVELS THROUGH
with self conceit; he certainly ought to have considered it an honour
to be sent on so respectable an embassy as he was. Another Indian,
who owned one of our horses, wished to return with him, which
was positively refused him; but tearing lye might steal the horse,
I contented him with a present. We marched and made the second
branch, crossing one prairie, for twelve miles of which we suffered
much from drought. Distance advanced .tw^ajy-t^o miles.
Tuesday, 9th September.—Marched at seven o'clock, and struck a
large creek at eleven miles distance. O.u holding a council it was
determined to ascend this to the highest point f>f water, and then
strike across to a large river of the Arkansaw. We proceeded
four miles and a half, and encamped, Distance advanced in all
twelve miles. Killed one cabrie, two deer, and two turkies.
From the Osage towns to the source of the Qsage river* t&ere is
no difference in the appearance of the country from that of their
vicinity, except that on the south and east, the view on the prairies
becomes unbounded. The waters of the White river and tbe Osage*
as above remarked, ai'e divided merely by a small ridge in the
prairie, and the dry branches appear to interlock at their head.
From thence to the main branch of the said river, the country appear-
ed high, with gravelly ridges of prairie land. On the main White river
is found large timber and fme ground for cultivation. Hence a doubt
arises as to the disemboguing of this stream.—Lieutenant Wilkinson,
from some authority, has drawn the conclusion, that it discharges
itself into the Arkansaw, a short distance below the Vermillion river;
but from the voyage of captain Many on the White river, the infor-
mation of hunters, Indians, &c. I am rather induced to believe it
to be the White river of the Mississippi, as at their mouths there is
not so great a difference between their magnitude; and all persons
agree in asserting, that the AVhite river heads between the Osagc
river, Arkansaw, and Kanses rivers, which would still leave the
Arkansaw near eight hundred miles longer than the White river.
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 183
From these proofe I am pretty confident in asserting, that this was
the "White river of the Mississippi which Me crossed.* At the place
where we traversed it, the stream was amply navigable for canoes,
eve"ft at this dry season of the year.
Wednesday, 10th September.—Marched early, struck and passed
tire dividing ground betw^een the &ira*Kl and the Verdigrise rivers.
Stopped to breakfast on a small stream of the latter; after which we
marched and encamped on the fourth small stream. Distance ad-
vanced twenty-one miles. Killed one elk and one deer.
Up the Grand river, to the dividing ridges between it and the
Verdigrise, the bottom is of some magnitude and importance; but
the latter river is bounded here by a narrow bed of prairie hills,
affording not more than sufficient timber for fire-wood for a limited
number of inhabitants for a few years.
Thursday, 11th September.-^-Passed four more branches, and en-
camped at night on a large branch of Grand river. Killed one cabrie
and one deer. Distance advanced seventeen miles.
Friday, 12th September.—Commenced our march at seven o'clock,
and passed some very rough flint hills; my feet blistered, and were
very sore. Standing on a hill, I beheld in one view below me, buf-
faloes, elks, deer, cabrie, and panthers. Encamped on the main
branch of Grand river, which had very steep banks, and was deep.
Dr. Robinson, Bradley, and Baroney, arrived after dusk, having
killed three buffaloes, which, with one I had killed, and two by the
Indians, made in all six. The Indians alleging it was the Kanses
hunting ground, said they would destroy all the game they pos-
sibly could. Distance advanced eighteen miles.
Satin-day, 13th September.—Late in marching, it having every
* On compaiing this passage with the map, Lieut. Wilkinson appears to have been
rightly informed, for the sources of'-what is here called the "White river of the Mississippi,
are laid down, agreeably to C'apt. Many's survey, considerably farther to the southward. IL,
184 TRAVELS THROUGH
appearance of rain. Halted to dine on a branch of Grand river.
Marched again at half past two o'clock, and halted at five. Intend-
ing to despatch Dr. Robinson and one of our Pawnees to the village
to-morrow. Distance advanced nine miles. Killed six buffaloes,
one elk, and three deer.
Sunday, 14th September.—The doctor, and Frank (a young Pawnee),
marched to the village at day-light, and we pursued our route at
half past six o'clock. Halted at one o'clock. On the march we
were continually passing through large herds of buffaloes, elk, and
cabrie; and I have no doubt but one hunter could support two
hundred men. I prevented the men shooting at the game, not
merely because of the scarcity of ammunition, but as I conceived
the laws of morality, also forbad it. Encamped at sun set on the
main branch of White river, hitherto called Grand river.* Distance
advanced twenty-one miles. Killed one buffalo and one cabrie.
Monday, \5thSeptcmber.—Marched at seven o'clock; passed a very
large Kanses encampment evacuated, which had been occupied last
summer. Proceeded on to the dividing ridge, between the waters
of the "White river and the Kanses. Halted at one o'clock, very much
against the inclination of the Osage; who, from the running of the
buffaloes, conceived a party of the Kanses to be near. Distance ad-
vanced eighteen miles. Killed two buffaloes.
From the Verdigrise river our course had lain over gravelly hills,
and a prairie country, but well watered by the branches of the Ver-
digrise, and White or Grand river. From the dividing ridge, which
parts these streams, to the source of the latter, there is very little
timber. The grass is short, the prairies high and dry; from the head
of White river over the dividing ridge between that and the eastern
branch of the Kanses river, the land is high and dry, and exhibits
* On the map they clearly appear as very distinct streams, the latter being a tributary
branch of the Arkansaw. K.
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 185
many appearances of iron ore] and on the western side some spa
springs. Here the country is very deficient of water.
Tuesday, 16th September.—Marched late, and in about four miles
and a half distance came to a very handsome stream of water, at
which we stopped, and remained until after two o'clock,when we pur-
sued our march arid crossed two branches, and encamped on the
third. At live second creek, a horse was discovered on the prairie,
when Baroney went in pursuit of him on a horse of Lieutenant Wii»;
kinson's, but arrived at our camp without success. Distance ad-
vanced thirteen miles. >
Wednesday, 17th September.—Marched early, and struck the main
south-east branch of the Kanses river at nine o'clock; it appeared to
be twenty-five or thirty yards wide, and is navigable in die flood
seasons. We passed, and proceeded six miles, to 'a small stream,
to breakfast. Game getting scarce, our provisions began to ran
low. Marched about two o'clock, and encamped at sun down, on
another large branch. Killed one buffalo. Distance advanced
twenty-one miles.
Thursday, 18th September.—Marched at our usual Joour, and at
twelve o'clock halted at a large branch of the Kanses, which was
strongly impregnated with salt. This day we expected the people
of the village to meet us. We marched again at four o'clock, our
route being over a continued series of hills and hollows, we were until
eight at Bight before we arrived at a small dry branch; it was nearly
ten before we found any water. Commenced raining a little before
da}'. Distance advanced twenty-five miles. '. . • • .....
Friday, 19th September.—It having commenced raining early, we
secured our baggage, and pitched our tents. The rain continued
without any intermission the whole day; during which we employed
ourselves in reading, and in pricking on our arms with India ink
some characters which will frequently bring to mind our forlorn and
dreary situation, as well as the. happiest da.ja of our lives. In the
B B
186 TRAVELS THROUGH
rear of our encampment was a hill, on which there was a large rock
where the Indians kept a continual sentinel, as I imagine, to apprise
them of the approach of any party, friends or foes, as well as to see
if they could discover any game on the prairies.
Saturday, 20th September.—It appearing as if we might possibly
have a clear day, I ordered our baggage to be spread abroad, but it
shortly after clouded up, and commenced raining. The Osage cen-
tinel discovered a buffalo on the priaries; upon which we despatched
a hunter on horseback in pursuit of him. Sent also some hunters
out on foot, and before night they killed three buffaloes; some of
the best of which we brought in, and jirked or dried by the fire.
It continued showery until the afternoon, when we put our baggage
again in a position to dry, and remained encamped. The detention
of the doctor and our Pawnee ambassador, began to be a matter of
serious consideration to us.
Sunday, 21st September.—We marched at eight o'clock, although
the weather exhibited every appearance of rain; and at eleven
o'clock passed a large creek remarkably salt Stopped at one o'clock
on a fresh branch of the salt creek. Our interpreter having killed
an elk, we sent out for some meat, which detained us so late that
I concluded it best to encamp where we were, in preference to run-
ning the risk of finding no water. Lieutenant Wilkinson was
attacked with a sever head-ache, and slight fever. One of my men
had been attacked with a touch of the pleurisy on the 18th, and
was still ill. We were informed by an Osage woman, that two of
the Indians, one of whom was her husband, were conspiring to de-
sert us in the night, and to steal some of our horses. We engaged
her as our spy. Thus were we obliged to keep ourselves on our
guard against our own companions and fellow travellers, men of a
nation highly favoured by the United States; but whom I believe
to be a faithless set of poltroons, incapable of a great and generous
action. Amongst them, indeed, there may be some exceptions.
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 187
In the evening, finding the two Indians above-mentioned had
made all preparations to depart, I sent for one of them who owned
a horse, and had received a gun and other property for his hire, and
told him, "I knew his plans, and that if he was disposed to desert,
I should take care to retain his horse; that as for himself, he might
leave me if he pleased, as I only wanted men with us." He replied,
"that he was a man, and that he always performed his promises;
that he had never said he would return, but that he would follow me
to the Pawnees' village, which he intended to do." He then brought
his baggage, and put it under charge of the sentinel, and slept by
my fire; but notwithstanding I had him well watched. Distance
advanced ten miles. Killed one elk. . .1 ;•; rl
Monday, 22d September.—We did not march until eight o'clock,
owing to the indisposition of Lieutenant Wilkinson. At eleven
waited to dine. Light mists of rain, with flying clouds. We marched
again at three o'clock, and continued our route for twelve miles, to
the first branch of the Republican fork. Met a Pawnee hunter,
who informed us, that the chief had left the village the day after the
doctor arrived, with fifty or sixty horses and many people, and had
taken his course to the northward of our route, consequently we had
missed each other. He likewise informed me, that the letans had
recently killed six Pawnees; the Kanses stolen some horses; and
that a party of three hundred Spaniards had lately been as far as the
Saline, but for what purpose was unknown. Distance advanced
twenty-one miles.
Tuesday, 23d September.—Marched early, and passed a large fork
of the Kanses river, which I supposed to be the one generally called
Solomon's fork. One of our horses fell into the water, and wetted his
load. Halted at ten o'clock on a branch of this fork. We marched
again at half past one o'clock, and encamped at sun down, on a dry
river course where we had great difficulty to find water. We were over-
B B 2
188 TRAVELS THROUGH
taken by a Pawaee* who encamped with us. He offered his horse
fox our use. Distance advanced twenty-one miles.
Wednesday, 24th September.—We could not find our horses until
late, when we marched. Before noon met Frank (who had accom-
panied Dr. Robinson to the village), and three other Pawnees, who
informed us that the chief and his party had only arrived at the
visage yesterday, and had despatched them out in search of us. Be-
fore three o'clock we were joined by several Pawnees; one of them
wore a scarlet coatr with a small medal of general Washington, and
a Spanish medal also: We encamped at sun-set, on a middle-sized
branch, and were joined by several Pawnees in the evening, who
brought us some buffalo meat. Here we saw some mules, horses,
brkfles, and blankets, which they had obtained of the Spaniards.
Few only had breech cloths, most being wrapped in buffalo robes;
otherwise quite naked. Distance advanced eighteen miles.
Thursday, 25th September.—We marched at a good hour, and in
about eight miles struck a.Tery large road, along which the Spanish
troops had returned; and on which we could yet discover the grass
beaten down, in the direction they had taken*.
When we arrived within about three miles of the village, WE
were requested to remain, as the ceremony of receiving the Osage
into the towns was to be performed here. There was a small circu-
lar spot, clear of grass, before which the Osage sat down. We were
a small distance in advance of the Indians. The Pawnees then ad-
vanced within a mile of us, and halted; divided into two troops,
and came on each flank at full charge, making all the gestures and
performing the manoeuvres of a real war charge. They then encir-
cled us around, and the chief advanced ia the centre and gave us
his hand. His name was Characterick. He was accompanied by
his two sons, and a chief by the name of Iskatappe. The Osage
were still seated; but the Belle Oiseau then rose, and came forward
with a pipe, and presented it to the chief, who took a whiff or two
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA.
from it. We then proceeded onf; the chief, Lietrterrarct Wilkinson,
and myself, in front; my sergeant, on a white horse, next, with the
colours; then our horses and baggage, escorted by our men; with
the Pawnees on each side, running races, &c. When we arrived on
the hill above the town, we were again halted, and the Osage seated
themselves in a row, when each Pawnee, who intended so to do,
presented a horse, and gave a pipe to smoke to the Osage to whom
he had made the present. In this manner were eight horses given.
Lieutenant Wilkinson then proceeded on with the party to the
river above the town, and encamped. As the chief had invited us
to his lodge to eat, we thought it proper for one of us to go. At
the lodge he gave me many particulars, which were interesting to
us, relative to the late visit of the Spaniards.*
* I will here attempt to give some memoranda of this expedition, which was the most
important ever sent out of the province of New Mexico; and' in fact the only one directed
to the north-eastward, except that mentioned by the Abbe Raynnl, in hie History of the
Indies, to the Pawnees. .. ,-
In theyear 1806 our affairs with Spam began to wear a very serious aspect, and the troops
of the two governments almost came to actual hostilities on the frontiers of Tixas and
the Orleans territory: at this time, when matters bore every appearance of coming to a
crisis, I was fitting out for my expedition from St. Louis, when some of the Spanish
emissaries in that country transmitted the information to Major Merior, and the Spanish
council at that place, who immediately forwarded the information to Captain Sebastian
Roderiques, the then commandant of Nacogdoches, who forwarded it to Colonel Cordero,
by whom it was transmitted to the seat of government. This information was personally
communicated to me, as an instance of the rapid means they possessed of conveying
intelligence relative to the occurrences transacting on our frontiers. The expedi-
tion was then determined on; and had three objects in view; first, to descend the Red
river, in order if they met our expedition to intercept and turn it back; or should
Major Sparks and Mr. Freeman have missed the party from Nacogdoches, under the
command of Captain Viana, to oblige them to return, and not penetrate fiwther into
the country, or make them prisoners of war. '. . ' ...
Seeondlyi, to explore and examine all the internal parts of the country, from, the fron-
tiers of the province of New Mexico to the Missouri, between the La Plate and Kanse*
rivers.
190 TRAVELS THROUGH
I went up to our camp in the evening, having a young Pawnee
with me loaded with corn for my men. Distance advanced twelve
miles.
Thirdly, to visit the letans, Pawnee republic, Grand Pawnees, Pawnee Mahaws,
and Kanses. To the head chief of each of these nations, the commanding officer bore
flags, a commission, grand medal, four mules: and with all of them he had to renew
the chains of ancient amity, which was said to have existed between their father, his
most catholic majesty, and his children, the red people.
The commanding officers also bore positive orders to oblige all parties or persons in the
above specified countries, either to retire from them into the acknowledged territories of
the United States, or to make prisoners of them, and conduct them into the province of
Kew Mexico.
Lieut. Don Facundo Malgares, the officer selected from the five internal provinces to
command this expedition, was an European, and his uncle was af that time one of the
'royal judges of the kingdom of New Spain. He had distinguished himself in several
long expeditions against the Appaches and other Indian nations, with whom the Spa-
niards were at war: added to these circumstances, he was a man of immense fortune,
and generous in its disposal, almost to profusion; possessed a liberal education, a high
sense of honour, and a disposition formed for military enterprize. . ..
• This officer marched from the province of Biscay, with one hundred dragoons of the
regular service, and at Santa Fe, the place where the expedition was fitted out, he
was joined by five hundred of the mounted militia of that province, and completely equipped
with ammunition, &c. for six months; eacli man leading with him (by order) two horses
and one mule. The whole number of their beasts was two thousand and seventy-five.
They descended the Red river two hundred and thirty-three leagues. Met the grand
bands of the letans, held councils with them; then struck off to the north-east, and
crossed the country to the Arkansaw, where Lieut. Malgares left two hundred and forty of
his men, with the lame and tired horses, whilst he proceeded on with the rest to the
Pawnee republic. Here he was met by the chiefs and warriors of the Grand Pawnees;
held councils with the two nations, and presented them the nags, medals, 8tc. which
were designed for them. He did not proceed on to the execution of his missions with the
Pawnee Mahwas, and Kanses, as he represented to me, from the poverty of their
horses, and the discontent of his own men; but as I conceive, from the suspicion and
discontent which began to arise between the Spaniards and the Indians. The former
wishing to revenge the death of Villeneuve and his party, whilst the latter possessed all
the suspicions of conscious villany, deserving punishment.
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 191
From the eastern branch of the Kanses river (by our route), to the
Pawnee republic, on the Republican fork, the prairies are low, the
grass high, the country abounding with salines, and the earth appear-
ing to be impregnated with nitrous and common salts. The imme-
diate borders of the Republican fork near the village, consist of high
ridges, but this is an exception to the general face of the country.
All the territory between the forks of the Kanses river, for a distance
of one hundred and sixty miles, may be called prairie, notwithstanding
the borders of wood land which ornament the banks of those streams,
but are no more than a line traced on a sheet of paper when com-
pared to the immense tract of meadow country. For some dis-
tance from the Osage villages, you only find deer, then elk, then
cabrie, and finally, buffalo. But it is worthy of remark, that al-
though the male buffaloes were in great abundance, yet in all our
route from the Osage to the Pawnees, we never saw one female. I
acknowledge myself at a loss to determine, whether this be to be
attributed to the decided preference the savages give to the meat of
the female, and that consequently they are almost exterminated in the
hunting grounds of the nations, or to some physical causes, for I
.afterwards discovered the females with young in such immense
herds, as gave me no reason to believe they yielded to the males in
numbers.
The Pawnees are a numerous nation of Indians, residing on
the rivers Plate and Kanses. They are divided into three distinct
nations, two of them being now at war; but their manners, language,
Malgares took with him all the traders he found there from our country, some of
whom being sent to Natchitoches, were in abject poverty at that place on my arrival,
and applied to me for means to return to St. Louis. Lieut. Malgares returned to Santa
Fe in October, when his militia was disbanded; but he remained in the vicinity of that
place until we were brought in, when with his dragoons he became our escort to the
seat of government.
192 TRAVELS THROUGH .
customs, and improvements, are in the same degree of advancement.
On the La Plate reside the Grand Pawnee village, and the Pawnee
Loups on one of its branches, with whom the Pawnee republicans are
at war. Their language is guttural, and approaches nearer to that
of the Sioux than the Osage; their figure is slim, and their high
cheek bones clearly indicate their Asiatic origin; but their emigra-
tion south, and the ease with which they live on the buffalo plains,
have probably been the cause of a degeneracy of manners; for they
are neither so brave nor so honest as their more northern neighbours.
Their government is the same as that of the Osage, an hereditary
aristocracy; the father handing his dignity of chieftain down to his
son: but their power is extremely limited, notwithstanding the long
life they have to establish their authority and influence; they merely
recommend and give counsel in the great assemblage of the nation.
They are not so cleanly, neither do they carry their internal police
so far, as the Osage; but out of the bounds of the village, it appear-
ed to me that they exceeded them, as I have frequently seen two
young soldiers come out to ray camp and by the strokes of long
whips instantly disperse a hundred persons, who were assembled
there to trade with my men. In regard to the cultivation of the
soil, they are about equal to the Osage, raising a sufficiency of corn
and pumpkins to afford a little thickening to their soup during the
year. Their pumpkins they cut into thin slices, and dry in the sun,
which reduces them to a small size, and not more than a tenth of their
original weight. With respect to raising horses, the Pawnees are far su-
perior to the Osage, having vast numbers of excellent cattle, which they
are daily encreasing by their attention to their breeding mares, which
they never use for labour; and in addition, they frequently pur-
chase some from the Spaniards. Their Houses are a perfect circle, ex-
cepting where the door is placed, from whence there is a projection
of about fifteen feet, the whole being constructed after the following
manner: There is first an excavation of a circular form, made in the
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 193
ground, of about four feet deep and sixty in diameter, where there
is a row of posts, about five feet high, with crotchets at the top, set
firmly in all round, and horizontal poles from one to another; there
is then a row of posts forming a circle of about ten feet width in the
diameter of the others, and ten feet in heighth. The crotchets of
these are so directed, that horizontal poles are also laid from one to
another, long poles are then laid slanting from the lower poles over
the upper, and meeting nearly at the top, leaving only a small ap-
perture for the smoke of the fire, which is made on the ground in
the middle of the lodge. A number of small poles are then put up
round the circle, so as to form the wall, and wicker-work ran through
the whole. The roof is thatched with grass and earth, thrown up
against the wall, until a bank is made to the eves; the thatch is also
covered with 'earth, one or two feet thick, and rendered so tight as
entirely to exclude any storm whatsoever, and make the lodge ex-
tremely warm. The entrance is about six feet wide, with walls on
each side, and roofed like our houses in shape, but of the same ma-
terials as the main building. Inside there are numerous little apart-
ments, constructed of wicker-work, against the Avail, with small
doors, having a great appearance of neatness; in these the mem-
bers of the family sleep, and have their little deposits.
Their towns are by no means so much crowded as the Osage,
giving much more space; but they have the same practice of intro-
ducing all the horses into the village at night, which makes it ex-
tremely crowded, they keeping guard with them during the day.
They are extremely addicted to gaming, and have for that purpose a
smooth piece of ground cleared out on each side of the village, for
about one hundred and fifty yards in length, at which they play
the following games: One is pilayed by two players at a time, and
-in the following manner: they have a large'hoop, of about four feet
diameter, in the centre of which is asttitfll leather ring attached to
c c
TRAVELS THROUGH
leather thongs, which are extended to the hoop, so as to keep it in
its central position; they also have a pole, of about six feet in length,
the player holding this in one hand, rolls the hoop from him, and
immediately slides the pole after it, and the nearer the head of the
pole lies to the small ring within the hoop, when they both fall, the
greater is the cast. But I could not ascertain their mode of count-
ing sufficiently to decide when the game was won. Another game is
played with a small stick, with several hooks, and a hoop about
four inches diameter, which is rolled along the ground, and the
forked stick darted after it, when the value of the cast is estimated
by the hook on which the ring is caught; this game is gained at a
hundred. The third game alluded to, is that of La Plate, described
by various travellers, and is played by the women, children, and
old men, who, like grass-hoppers, crawl out to the circus, to. bask
in the sun, probably covered only with an old buffalo robe.
The Pawnees, like the Osage, quit their villages in. the winter,
making concealments under ground of their corn, in which it keeps
perfectly sound until spring.. The only nation with whom the Paw-
nees are now at war, are the letans, Utahs, and Kyaways; the
two latter of whom reside in the mountains of North Mexico;, the
former generally inhabiting the borders of the Upper Red River,
Arkansaw, and Rio del Norte. The war has been carried on by
those nations for years, without any decisive action, being fought,
although they frequently march with two or three hundred men.
The Pawnees have much the advantage of their enemies in point of
arms, having at least one half fire-arms, whilst, their opponents have
only bows, arrows, lances, shields, and slings. The Pawnees always
march to Avar on foot, their enemies are all cavalrj. This nation
may be considered as the one equi-distant between the Spanish:
population and that of our settlements of Louisiana, but are at pre-
sent decidedly under Spanish influence, and should a t\rar com--
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 10.5
mence to-morroMr, would all be in their interests. This circumstance
does not arise from their local situation, because they are all situ-
ated on the navigable waters of the Missouri; nor from their interests,
because from the Spaniards they obtain nothing, except horses and
a few coarse blankets of West Mexico, whilst from us they receive
all their supplies of arms, ammunition, and clothing; but all these
articles in very small quantities, not more than half having a blanket,
many being without breech cloths to cover their nakedness. But
the grand principle by which the Spaniards keep them in their influ-
ence is fear, frequently chastising their small parties on their fron-
tiers. To this may be added, their sending out the detachment of
six hundred horsemen, which had visited them just before our arri-
val. This has made such an impression that they may safely calcu-
late on them in case of war. This detachment took some of the
Pawnees to Chihuahua, at the time I entered the provinces. But
by withholding their supplies of arms, ammunition, and clothing,
one or two years, bringing on their backs the Osage and Kanses, they
would be in great distress, and feel the necessity of a good under-
standing with the United States.
If there should ever be factories established for their accommo-
dation, they should be at the entrance of the La Plate and Kanses
rivers, as those waters are of so uncertain navigation, being naviga-
ble only in freshes, that it would be folly to attempt any permanent
establishments high up; and to make those establishments useful to
the Pawnees, we must pre-suppose our influence sufficient to guar-
rantee to them peace, and a safe passage through the nations of the
Kanses, Ottoes, and Missouries; the first on the Kanses river, the
two latter on the river Plate.
Friday, 26th September.—Finding our encampment not eligible as
to situation, we moved down the prairie hill, about three-quarters of
a mile nearer the village. We pitched our camp upon a beautiful
eminence, from whence we had a view of the town, and all transact-
c c 2
196 TRAVELS THROUGH
ing in it. AVe sent our interpreter to town, to trade for provision.
About three o'clock in the afternoon twelve Kanses arrived at the
village, and informed Baroney that they had come to meet us, hear-
ing we were to be at the Pawnee village.
The Kanses are a small nation, situated on the river of that name;
and are in language, manners, customs, and agricultural pursuits,
precisely similar to the Osage; with whom, I believe them, as before
observed, to have one common origin. It may be said, however,
that their langunge differs in some degree, but not more than the
dialect of our eastern states differs from the southern. But in war
they are yet more brave than their Osage brethren; being, although
not more than one-third their number, their most dreaded enemies,
and frequently make the Pawnees tremble.
Saturday, '27th September.—Baroney arrived from the village about
one o'clock, with Charaterick and three other chiefs, to all of whom
we gave a dinner. I then made an appropriate present to each;
after which Lieutenant Wilkinson and myself accompanied them to
town, where we remained a few hours, and afterwards returned.
Appointed to-morrow for the interview with the Kanse and Osages.
Sunday, 28th September—Held a council of the Kanses and
Osage, and made them smoke of the pipe of peace.*
* The following is the form of a convention of peace, we forwarded to the Kanses and
Osage nation.
In council held by the subscribers at the Tillage of the Pawnee republic, appeared
Wahonaongay, vtith eight principal soldiers of the Kanses nation on the one part, and
Shinga-Wasa, a chief of the Osage nation, with four of the warriors of the Grand and
Little villages on the other part; after having smoked the pipe of peace, and buried past
animosities, they individually and jointly bound themselves in behalf of and for their
respective nations, to observe a friendly intercourse, and keep a permanent peace, and
mutually pledge themselves to use their every influence to further the commands and
wishes of their great father.
We, therefore, .American chiefs, do require of each uatiov, a strict 'observance of the
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 197
Two of the Kanses agreed to accompany us. We received a visit
from the chief of the village. Made an observation on an emersion
of one of Jupiter's satellites.
Monday, 29th September.—Held our grand council with the Paw-
nees; at \vhich were present not less than four hundred warriors.
The circumstances of which were extremely interesting.*
above treaty, as they value the good will of their great father, the President of the
United States.
Done at our council-fire, at the Pawnee republican village, the 28th September, 1806.
and tl>e 31st year of American independence.
Signed Z. M. PIKE.
J. B. WILKINSON.
* The notes I took at my grand council held with the Pawnee nation were seized by,
the Spanish Governor, together with all my speeches to the different nations. But it
may be interesting to observe here, (in case they should never be returned) that the
Spaniards had left several of their flags in this village; one of which was unfurled at
the chief's door the day of the grand council; and amongst the various demands and
charges I made was, that the said flag should be delivered to me, and one of the United
States' flags be received and hoisted in its place. This probably was carrying the pride
of nations a little too far, as there had so lately been a large force of Spanish cavalry at
the village, which had made a great impression on the minds of the young men, as to
their power, consequence, 8cc. which my appearance with twenty infantry was by no
means calculated to remove. After the chiefs had replied to various parts of my disr
course, but were silent as to the flag, I again reiterated the demand for the flag, adding
that it was impossible for the nation to have two fathers; that they must either be the
children of the Spaniards or acknowledge their American father. After a silence of
some time, an old man rose, went to the door, and took down the Spanish flag, and
brought it and laid it at my feet; and then received the American flag, and elevated it
on the staff, which had lately borne the standard of his catholic majesty. This gave
great satisfaction to the Osage and' Kanses, both of whom decidedly avow themselves
to be under the American protection. Perceiving that every face m the council was
clouded with sorrow, as if some great national calamity was about to befall them, I
took up the contested colours, and told them, that as they had now shewn themselves
dutiful children in acknowledging their great American father, I had no desire to em-
barrass them with the Spaniards, for it was. the wish of the Americans, that their red
brethren should remain peaceably round their own fires, and not embroil themselves in
198 TRAVELS THROUGH
Tuesday, 30th September.—Remained all day at the camp, but
sent Baroney to town, who informed me on his return, that the chief
appeared to wish to throw obstacles in our way. A great disturbance
had taken place in the village, owing to one of the young Pawnees,
who had lately come from the United States, (Frank) having taken
the wife of an Osage and run away with her. The chief, in whose
lodge the Osage had put up, was extremely enraged; considering it
a breach of hospitality to a person under his roof, and threatened
to kill Frank, if he caught him.
Wednesday, 1st October.—Paid a visit to town, and had a very long
conversation with the chief, who urged every thing in his power to
induce us to turn back. He finally very candidly told us, that the
Spaniards wished to have gone further into our country, but he had
induced them to give up the idea; that they had listened to him, and
he wished us to do the same: that he had promised the Spaniards
to act as he now did, and that we must proceed no further, or he
must stop us by force of arms. My reply was, "That I had been
sent out by our great Father to explore the western country, to
visit all his red children, to make peace between them, and turn
them from shedding blood; that he had seen how I had caused the
Osage and Kanses to meet to smoke the pipe of peace together, and
take each other by the hand like brothers: that as yet my road had
been smooth with a blue sky over our heads. I had not seen any
blood in our paths. But that he must know that the young warriors
of his great American Father were not women, to be turned back
by words; that I should therefore proceed, and if he thought
proper to stop me, he might attempt it, but we were men, well
any disputes between the white people: and that for fear the Spaniards might return there
in force again, I gave them back their flag; but with an injunction that it should never be
hoisted during our stay. At this there was a general shout of applause, and the charge
was particularly attended to.
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 199
armed, and would sell our lives at a dear rate to his nation: that
we knew our great Father would send other young warriors there to
gather our bones, and revenge our deaths on his people, when our
spirits would rejoice in hearing our exploits sung in the war-songs
of our chiefs."
I then left his lodge and returned to camp, in considerable per-
turbation of mind.
Thursday, 2d October.—We received advice from our Kanses, that
the chief had given publicity to his idea of stopping us by force of
arms; this caused me some serious reflections, and was produc-
tive of many, singular expressions from my brave lads; which called
for my esteem at the same time that they excited my laughter.
I attempted to trade for horses, but could not succeed. In the
night \ve were alarmed by some savages coining near our camp in
full speed; but they retreated equally expeditiously, on being hailed
with fierceness by our centinels. This created some degree of indig-
nation in my little band, as we had noticed that all the day had
passed without any traders presenting themselves, which appeared
as if all intercourse were interdicted! Wrote to the Secretary at War,
the General, &c.
Friday, 3d October.^-The intercourse again commenced. Traded
for some horses. Writing.for my express.
Saturday,. 4th October.—Two French traders arrived at the village
in order to procure horses, to transport their goods from the Missouri
to the village: they gave us information that Captains Lewis and
Clarke, with all their people had descended the river to St. Louis;
this diffused general joy throughout'our party. Our trade for horses
did not proceed this day. .
Sunday, 5th October.—Buying horses, preparing, to march, and
finishing my letters*.
i
*
* See Appendix, No. VIII.
200 TRAVELS THROUGH
Monday, 6th October.—Marched off my express, purchased horses,
and prepared to resume my journey on the morrow.
Tuesday, 7th October.—In the morning found two of our newly
purchased horses missing; sent in search of them: the Indians
brought in one pretty early. Struck our tents and commenced
loading our horses: finding there was no probability of our obtaining
the other that was missing, we marched at two o'clock, P. M. and
as the chief had threatened to stop us by force of arms, we had
made every arrangement to make him pay as dearly for the attempt
as possible. The party was kept compact, and marched on by a
road round the village, in order that if attacked the savages might
not have their houses to retreat to for cover. I had given orders not
to fire until within five or six paces, and then to charge with bayonet
and sabre; when I believe it would have cost them at least one hun-
dred men to have exterminated us (which would have been neces-
sary). The village appeared to be all in motion. I galloped up to
the lodge of the chief attended by my interpreter and one soldier;
but soon saw there was no serious attempt to be made, although
: many young men were walking about with their bows, arrows, guns,
and lances. After speaking to the chief with apparent indifference,
I told him that I calculated on his justice in obtaining the horse, and
that I should leave a man until the next day at twelve o'clock to
bring it after me. We then joined the party and pursued our route.
When I was once on the summit of the hill which overlooks the
village, I felt my mind as if relieved from a heavy burthen. Yet
all the evil I wished the Pawnees was, that I might be the instrument
in the hands of our government to open their ears and eyes, and
with a strong hand, to convince them of our power.
Our party now consisted of two officers, one doctor, eighteen
soldiers, one interpreter, three Osage men and one woman, making
twenty-five warriors. We marched out and encamped DTI a smalt
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 201
branch. Distance advanced seven miles, along the same route by
which we had come in. Rain in the night.
• Wednesday, 8th October.—-I conceived it best to send Baroney
back to the village with a present, to be offered for our horse; the
chief having suggested the propriety of the measure. On his way
he met his son and Sparks with the horse. Marched at ten o'clock,
and at four came to the place where the Spanish troops had encamp-
ed the first night after they had left the village of the Pawnees.
Their encampment was circular, and having only small fires round
the circle for the purpose of cooking. We counted fifty-nine fires;
so that allowing six men to each, the party must have comprised
three hundred and fifty-four persons. We encamped on a large
branch of the second fork of the Kanses river. Distance advanced
eighteen miles.
Thursday, 9th October.—Marched at eight o'clock, being detained
until that time by our horses being at a great distance. At eleven
o'clock we found the forks of the Spanish and Pawnee roads: and
when we halted at twelve o'clock, we were overtaken by the second
chief (Iskatappe,) and the American chief, with one third of the
village. They presented us with a piece of bear meat. When we
were about to proceed we discovered that Dr. Robinson's dirk had
been stolen from behmd his saddle. After marching the men, the
doctor and myself with the interpreter went to the chief and de-
manded that he should cause a search to be made. This was done,
but when the dirk was found the possessor asserted that he had
found it on the road. I told him that he did not speak the truth;
and informed the chief that we never suffered a thing of ever so little
value to be taken without permission: at this time the prairie was
covered with his men, who began to encircle us, and Lieut. Wilkin-
son with the troops had gained half a mile on the road. The Indian
demanded a knife before he would deliver up the dirk ; but as we re-
ifused to give one, the chief took one from his belt and gave him. I toek
D D
202 TRAVELS THROUGH
the dirk and presented it to the doctor, who immediately returned it
to the chief as a present, and desired Baroney to inform him that he
might now see it was not the value of the article, but the act, we
took into consideration; we then galloped off. After proceeding
about a mile we discovered a herd of elk, which we pursued: they
took back in sight of the Pawnees, who immediately mounted fifty
or sixty young men and joined in the pursuit; then, for the first
time in my life, I saw animals slaughtered by the true savages with
their original weapons, bows and arrows. They buried the arrow
up to the plume in the animal. We took a piece of meat and followed
our party; overtook them, and encamped within the Grand or Solo-
mon's Fork, which we had crossed lower down, on the 23d Septem-
ber, on our route to the Pawnees. This had been the Spanish camp-
ing ground. In the evening two Pawnees came to our camp who
had not eaten for three days: they had been carrying a sick compa-
nion, whom they had left that day; we gave them supper, with
tome meat and corn, and they immediately departed, in order to
*',arry this seasonable supply to their friend. As they were coming
into the camp, the centinel challenged, it being dark: on seeing him.
bring his piece to the charge, supposing he was about to fire on t hem,
they approached to give him their hands; he however not well de-
scrying their motions, was on the point of firing, but being a cool
collected little fellow, called out that there were two Indians on
him, and asked if he should fire; this drew out the guard, when the
poor affrighted savages were brought in, very much alarmed, for they
Jiad not heard of a white man's being within their country, and
thought they were entering one of the camps of their own people.
Distance advanced eighteen miles.
Friday, 10th October—Marched at seven o'clock, and halted at
twelve to dine. Were overtaken by the Pawnee chief, whose party we
had left the day before, who informed us the hunting party had taken
aaother road, and that he had come to bid us good bye. We Jeft a
THE INTERIOR OF roUISfANA, J03
farge ridge on our left, and atsun*down crossed it. From this placw
ve had an extensive view to the soath-west; we observed a creek at a
distance, for which I meant to proceed. The doctor, interpreter, and
myself arrived at eight o'clock at night; found water and wood, but
had nothing to eat. Kindled a fire, in order to guide the party; but
they not being able to find the route, and not knowing the distance,
encamped on the prairie without wood or water.
Saturday, 11th October.—Ordered Baroney to return to find the
party and conduct them to our camp. The Doctor and myself wenfc
out to hunt, and ou our return found all our people had arrived e*-»
oept the rear guard, which was in sight. Whilst we halted, five
Pawnees came to us and brought some bones of a horse which the
Spanish troops had been obliged to eat at their encampment. On
this creek we took up our line of march at twelre o'clock, and at sun
down the party halted on the Saline. I was in pursuit of buffalo*
and did not make the camp until near ten o'clock at night: killed
one buffalo: distance advanced twelve miles.
Sunday, 12th October.—Here the Belle Oiseau and one Osage left
us, and there remained only one man and woman of that nation.
Their reason for leaving us was, that our course bore too much west,
find they desired to bear more for the hunting ground of the
Osage. In the morning sent out to obtain the buffalo meat, and
laid by until after breakfast. Proceeded at eleven o'clock, and
crossing the river two or three times we passed two camps where the
Spanish troops had halted. Here they appeared to have remained
some days. Their roads being so much blinded by the traces of the
buffalo, we lost them entirely. This was a mortifying circum-
stance, as we had reason to calculate tfiat tliey had good guides and
were on the best route for wood and water. We took a south-west
direction, and before night were fortunate enough to strike their road
on the left* and at dusk much to our surprise struck the eastern forl*
204 TRAVELS THROUGH
of the Kanses, or la Fourche de la c6te Boucaniere: killed one
falo: distance advanced eighteen miles.
Monday, 13th October—The day being rainy, we did not march
until two o'clock, when there being an appearance of the weather
clearing, we raised our camp; after which we marched seven miles,
and halted at the head of a branch of the river we had left. Had to
go two miles for water: killed one cabrie.
Tuesday, 14th October—Drizzling rain having fallen all night, and the
atmosphere being entirely obscured, we did not march until a quarter
past nine o'clock, and then commenced crossing the dividing ridge be-
tween the Kanses and Arkansaw rivers-. Arrived on a branch of the
latter at one o'clock; continued down it in search of water until after
dusk, when we found a pond on the prairie, which induced us to
halt. Sparks did not come up, being scarcely able to walk from
rheumatic pains: wounded several buffaloes, but could get none of
them : distance advanced twenty-four miles.
Wednesday, 15th October.—In the morning rode out m search of
the Spaniards' trace, and crossed the low prairie, which was nearly
all covered with ponds, but could not discover it. Finding Spark*
~did not arrive, sent two men back in search of him, who rejoined us
with him about eleven o'clock. At twelve we commenced our line
of march, and at five Dr. Robinson and myself left the party at a
large creek, having pointed out to Lieutenant Wilkinson a distant'
wood for our encampment, in order to search some distance up
it for the Spaniards' trace. Killed two buffaloes, and left part of our
clothing with them, to scare away the wolves. Went afterwards in;
pursuit of the party. On our arrival at the creek appointed for the
encampment, we did not find them. Proceeded down it for some
miles, and not discovering them, we encamped, struck fire, and then
supped on the tongue of one of our buffaloes.
Thursday, 16th October.—Early on horseback: proceeded up the
creek some distance, in search of our party, but at twelve o'clock^
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 203
crossed to our two buffaloes. Found a great many wolves at them,
notwithstanding the precaution taken to keep them off. Cooked
some marrow bones, and. again mounted our horses, and proceeded
down the creek. Finding nothing of the party, I began to be serir
ously alarmed for their safety. Killed two more buffaloes, made our
encampment, and feasted sumptuously on the marrow bones. Rain
in the night.
Jirafar/, ]?th October.—Rose early, determined to search the creek
to its- source. Very hard rain accompanied by a cold north wind
all day. Encamped near night, without being able to discover any
signs of the party. Our sensations now became excruciating, not
only on account of their personal safety^ but the fear of the failure
of the national objects intended to be accomplished by the expe-
dition ; and our own situation was not the most agreeable, not
having more than four rounds of ammunition each: and being four
hundred miles in the nearest direction from the first civilized inhabi-
tants. We however concluded to .search for them on the morrow, and
if we did not succeed in finding them to strike for the Arkansaw,
where we were in hopes of discovering some traces of them, if they
were not cut off by the savages.
Saturday, 18th October.-—Commenced OUT route at an early hour,
and about ten o'clock discovered two men on horseback in search of
us, one my attendant. They informed us the party was encamped
on the Arkansaw, about three miles south of where we then were.'
This surprised us very much, as-we had no conception of that river
being so near.. On our arrival we were met by Lieutenant Wilkin-
son,, who, with all the party, was greatly concerned for our
safety.
In the afternoon the Doctor and myself took our horses and
crossed the Arkansaw, .in order to search for some trees which might
answer the purpose to make canoes ; .found but one and returned at;
dusk. It commenced raining at .twelve o'clock at night..
306 TRAVELS THROUGH
Sunday, 19th October.—Finding the river rising rapidly, I thought
it best to secure our passage over; we consequently made it good by
ten o'clock, A. M. rain all day. Prepared our tools and arms for la-
bour and the chase on the morrow.
From the Pawnee toAvn on the Kanses river to the Arkansas, the
country may almost be termed mountainous; but a want of timber
gives the hills less claim to the appellation of mountains; they are
watered and created as it were by the various branches of the Kanses
river. One of those branches, a stream of considerable magnitude,
say twenty yards, which I have designated on the chart by the name
of the Saline, was so salt at the place where we crossed it, on our route
to the Arkansaw, that it salted sufficiently the soup of the meat
which my men boiled in it. We were at this place very eligibly si-
tuated, had a fre»h spring issuing from a bank near us; plenty of the
necessaries of life all around, viz. buffalo, a beautiful little sugar loaf
hill, for a look-out post, fine grass for our horses, and a saline in front
of us. 4s y°u approach the Arkansaw, on this route, within fifteen
or twenty miles, the country appears to be low and swampy, or the
land is covered with ponds extending out from the river some
distance. The river at the place where we struck it, is nearly five
hundred yards wide, from bank to bank; those banks not more than
four feet high, thinly covered with cotton wood. The north side is
a swampy low prairie, and the south a sandy sterile desert.
Monday, 20th October.—We commenced our labour at two trees
for canoes, but one proved too much doated. Killed two buffaloes
;ind one cabrie. Discharged our guns at a mark, the best shot a
prize of one vest and a pair of shoes. Our only dog was standing at
the root of the tree, in the grass, and one of the balls struck him on
tire head, and killed him. Ceased raining about twelve o'clock.
Tuesday, 21st October.*— Dr. Robinson and myself mounted our
horses, in order to go down the river to the entrance of the three last
WQ had, crossed in our route, but meeting with buffaloes, w«
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 207
killed four. Returned to camp and sent for the meat. Killed also
one cabrie.
Wednesday, 22d October.—Having sat up very late the last evening,
expecting t^ sergeant and party, who did not arrive, we became very-
anxious on their account; but about ten o'clock Bradley arrived and
informed us that they could not find the buffalo which we had
killed on the prairie. They all arrived however before noon, and in
the afternoon we scaffolded some meat, and nearly completed the
frame of a skin canoe, which we had resolved lo build. Over-
hauled my instruments, and made some rectifications preparatory to
taking an observation.
Thursday, 23d October.—Dr. Robinson and myself, accompa-
nied by one man, ascended the river with an intention of searching
for the Spanish trace. At the same time we despatched Baroney and
our two hunters to kill some buffaloes, to obtain the skins for canoes.
We ascended the river about twenty miles to a large branch on the
right. Just at dusk gave chase to a buffalo, and were obliged to
shoot nineteen balls into him before we killed him. Encamped in
the fork.
Friday, 24th October.—We ascended the right hand branch about
five miles, but could not see any signs of the Spanish trace; this is
not surprising, as the river bears south-west, and they no doubt kept
more to the west, from the head of one branch to anothejr. We return-
ed, and on our way killed some prairie squirrels, or wish-ton-wishes,
and nine large rattle snakes, which frequent their villages *.
* The wish-ton-wish of the Indians, the prairie dogs of some travellers, or squirrels, as
I should be inclined to denominate them, reside on the prairies of Louisiana in towns or
villages, having an evident police established in their communities.
The sites of their towns are generally on the brow of a hill, near some small creek
or pond, in order to be convenient for water, and that the high ground which they in-
habit may not^be subject to inundation. Their residence, being under ground, is burrow-
fd, and the earth biought out is made to answer the double purpose of keeping out.the
208 TRAVELS THROUGH
On our arrival found the hunters had come in aboutone hour with
two buffalo skins and one elk skin. ,
Saturday, 25th October.—Took an observation. Passed the day in
writing and preparing for the departure of Lieutenant Wilkinson.
water and affording an elevated place in wet seasons to repose on, and to give them a
further and more distinct view of the country. Their holes descend in a spiral form, on
which account I could never ascertain their depth; but I once had a hundred and forty
kettles of water poured into one of them, in order to drive out the occupant, but without
effect. In the circuit of the villages they clear off all the grass, and leave the earth bare of
vegetation; but whether this be from an instinct they possess inclining them to keep the
ground thus cleared, or whether they make use of the herbage as food, I cannot pretend
to determine. The latter opinion I think is entitled to a preference, as their teeth de-
eignate them to be of the granivorous species, and I know of no other substance which is
produced in the vicinity of their stations, OH which they could subsist; for they never
extend their excursions more than half a mile from the burrows. They are of a dark
brown colour, except their bellies, which are white; their tails are not so long as those
of our grey squirrels, 'but are shaped precisely the same. Their teeth, head, nails, and
body are those of the perfect squirrel, except that they are generally fatter than that animal.
Their villages sometimes extend over two and three miles square, in which there must be
innumerable hosts of them, as there is generally a burrow every ten steps, containing two
or more inhabitants, and you see new ones partly excavated on all the borders of the town.
We killed great numbers of these animals with our rifles, and found them excellent meat
after they were exposed a night or two to the frost, by which means the rankness acquired
by ther subterraneous dwelling is corrected. As you approach their towns, you are sa-
inted on all sidesiby the cry of wish-ton-wish, from which they derive their name with
.the Indians, uttered in a shrill and piercing manner. You then observe them all re-
treating to the entrance of their burrows, where they post themselves, and watch even
the slightest movement that you make. It requires a very nice shot with a. rifle to kill
them, as they must be shot dead, for as long as life exists they continue to work into their
cells. It was extremely dangerous to pass through their towns, as they abounded with
rattle-snakes, both of the yellow and black species, and, strange as it may appear, I have
seen the wish-ton-wish, the rattle-snake, the horn-frog with which the prairie abounds,
(termed by the Spaniards the Camelion, from their taking no visible sustenance), and a
jand tortoise, all take refuge in the same hole. I do not pretend to assert, that it was
iheir common place of resort, but I have witnessed the fact in more than one instance.
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 209
Sunday, 26th October.—Delivered out a ration of com by way of
•distinction of the Sabbath. Prepared for our departure.
Monday, 27th October.—Delivered to Lieutenant AVilkinson letters
•for the General * and our friends, with other papers, consisting of his
instructions, traverse tables of our voyage, and a draft of our route
to that place complete, in order that if we were lost, and he arrived
in safety, we might not have made the tour without some benefit to
our country. He took with him in corn and meat twenty-one days'
provision, and all the necessary tools for building canoes or cabins.
Launched his canoes. We concluded we should separate in the
morning; he to descend the river, and we to ascend it to the moun*
tains.
Tuesday, 28th October*—AH was in motion as soon as possible, my
party crossing the river to the north side, and Lieutenant Wilkinson
launching his canoes of skins and wood-. We breakfasted together,
and then filed off. I suffered my party to march, and remained
myself to see Lieutenant Wilkinson sail, which he did at ten
o'clock, having one skin canoe made of four buffalo skins, and
two elk skins, which held three men besides himself, and one Osage;
and a wooden canoe, in which were one soldier, one Osage, and their
baggage: one other soldier marched on shore. We parted with "God
bless you," from both parties; they appeared to sail very well.-f'
In the pursuit of our party, Dr. Robinson, Baroney, one soldier,
and myself killed a blaireau, and a buffalo; of the latter we took
only his marrow bones and liver. Arrived where our men had en*
camped about dusk. Distance advanced, fourteen miles.
Wednesday, 29th October.—Marched after breakfast, and during
the first hour passed two fires, where twenty-one Indians had re-
* See Appendix, No. IX.
t For an account of Lieutenant Wilkinson's voyage down the Arkansaw, see Appendix
-Ko. X.
i £
210 TRAVELS THROUGH
cently encamped, in which party, as appeared by their paintings on
the rocks, there were seven guns. Killed a buffalo. Halted, made
a fire, and feasted on the choicest pieces of meat. About noon
discovered two horses feeding with a herd of buffaloes; we attempted
to surround them, but they soon outstript our fleetest coursers; one
appeared to be an elegant animal. These were the first wild horses
we had seen.
Two or three hours before night struck the Spanish road, and as
it was snowing, halted, and encamped the party at the first wood
on the bank of the river. The doctor and myself forded it, (the ice
running very thick) in order to discover the course the Spaniards
had taken, but owing to the many buffalo roads, we could not
ascertain it; but it evidently appeared that they had halted here
some time, as the ground was covered with horse dung for miles
around. Returned to camp. The snow fell two inches deep, and
then it cleared up. Distance advanced, twelve miles.
Thursday, 30th October.—In the morning sent out to kill a buffalo,
to have his marrow bones for breakfast, which was accomplished.
After breakfast the party marched upon the north side, and the
doctor and myself crossed with considerable difficulty, on account
of the ice, to the Spaniards' course, when we took a large circuit, in
order to discover, the Spaniards' trace, and came in at a point of
wood, south of the river, where we found our party encamped..
We discovered also, that the Spanish troops had marched the river
up, and that a party of savages had been there not more than
three days before. Killed two buffaloes. Distance advanced, four
miles.
Friday* 31st October.—Fine day.. Marched at three-quarters past
nine o'clock on the Spanish road. Encamped, sun an hour high,
after having made sixteen miles. We observed this day a species,
of congelation on the road, when the sun was high, in I6w places.
where there had been water settled: on tasting, found it to bejsalU;
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 211
this, in my estimation, gave some authority to the report of the
prairie being covered for leagues. Discovered the trace of about
twenty savages, who had followed our road; and horses going down
the river. Killed one buffalo, one elk, and one deer.
Saturday, 1st November.—Marched early: just after commencing
our line, heard a gun on our left. The doctor, Baroney, and myself
being in advance, and lying on the ground waiting for the party,
a band of cabrie came up amongst our horses, to satisfy their curio-
sity. We could not resist the temptation of killing two, although
we had plenty of meat. At the report of the guns they appeared
astonished, and stood still until we hallooed at them to drive them
away. Encamped in the evening on an island. Upon using my
glass to view the adjacent country, I observed on the prairie a herd
of horses. Dr. Robinson and Baroney accompanied me to go and
examine them; when within about quarter of a mile, they discovered
us, and immediately approached, making the earth tremble under
them; they brought to my recollection a charge of cavalry. They
stopped and gave us an opportunity to view them. Amongst them
there were some very beautiful bays, blacks, and greys, and indeed
of all colours. We fired at a black horse with an idea of creasing
him, but did not succeed; they flourished round and returned again
to view us. We then returned to camp.
Sunday, 2d November.—In the morning, for the purpose of trying
the experiment, we equipped six of our fleetest coursers with riders,
and ropes to noose the wild horses, if in our power to come amongst
the herd. They stood until we approached within forty yards, neigh-
ing and whinnying, when the chace began, which we continued two
miles without success. Two of our horses ran up with them, but we
could not take them. Returned to camp. I have since laughed at
our folly for endeavouring to take the wild horses in that manner,
E E 2
TRAVELS THROUGH
which is scarcely erer attempted even with the fleetest a in in a Is and
most expert ropers*.
Marched late. The river turned to north by west; hills changed
to the north side. Distance advanced thirteen miles and.a half.
Killed one buffalo.
Monday, 3d November.—Marched at ten o'clock. Passed several
herds of buffalo, elk, and some horses, and other animals, all travel-
ling south. The river bottoms were observed full of salt ponds, and
the grass to be similar to that of our salt meadows. Killed one buffalo.
Distance advanced twenty-five miles and a half.
Tuesday, 4th November.—This day brought to our recollection the
fate of our countrymen at Recovery, when defeated by the Indians
in the year 1.791. In the afternoon discovered the north side of the
river to be covered with animals* which, when we came to them,
proved to be cows and calves, and buffaloes. I do not think it an
exaggeration to say there were three thousand in one view. It is
worthy of remark, that in all the extent of country yet crossed, we
never saw one cow, and that now the face of the earth appeared to
be covered with theirs Killed one buffalo. Distance advanced
twenty-four miles and a half.
Wednesday, 5th November.—Marched at our usual hour. After
proceeding two miles shot a buffalo and two deer, and halted, which;
detained us so long, that we foolishly concluded to halt the re-
mainder of the day and kill some cows and calves,, which lay on the
opposite side of the river. I took post on a hill, and sent some
horsemen over, when a scene took place which gave a lively repre-
sentation of an engagement. The herd of buffaloes being divided into
separate bands, covered the prairie with dust, and first charged on .
* Some account of these animals will be given in a subsequent part of this work. .
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 213
the one side, then to the other, as the pursuit of the horsemen im-
pelled them; the report and smoke from the guns added to the
pleasure of the scene, which in part compensated for our deten-
tion.
Thursday, 6th November.—Marched early, bat were detained two
or three hours by the cows which we had killed. The cow buffalo
was equal to any meat I ever saw, and we feasted sumptuously on
the choice morsels. 1 will not attempt to describe the droves of
animals we now saw in our route, suffice it to say, that the face of
the prairie was covered with them on both sides of the river; their
numbers exceeded imagination. Distance advanced sixteen miles.
Friday, 7th November.—Marched early. The herbage being very
poor, concluded to lay by on the morrow, in order to" recruit our
horses. Killed three cow buffaloes, one calf, two wolves, and one
blaireau. Distance advanced eighteen miles.
Saturday, 8th November.—Our horses being very much jaded, and
our situation very eligible, we halted all day. Jerked meat, mended
our mockinsons, &c.
Sunday, 9th November.—Marched early. At twelve o'clock struck
the Spanish road, which had been on the outside of us; it appeared
to be considerably augmented, and on our arrival at the Spanish
camp, found it to consist of ninety-six fires, from which a reasonable
conclusion might be drawn that there were from six to seven hundred
men.
We this day found the face of the country considerably changed,
being hilly, with springs. Passed numerous herds of buffaloes and
some horses. Distance advanced twenty-seven miles.
Monday, 10th November.—The hills increased; the banks of the
river were covered with groves of young cotton wood ; the river itself
much narrower and crooked.. Our horses growing weak, two gave
out, which we brought along unloaded. Cut down trees at night for.
214 TRAVELS THROUGH
them to browse on. Killed one buffalo. Distance advanced twenty
miles.
Tuesday, 11th November.—Marched at the usual hour. Passed
two old camps, and one of last summer, which had belonged to the
savages, and we supposed letans.* Passed a Spanish camp, where it
appeared the party had remained some days, as we conjectured, to lay
up meat, previously to entering the letan country, as the buffalo
evidently began to grow much less numerous. Finding the im-
* The letans, or Camanches, as the Spaniards term them, or Padoucas as they are called
by the Pawnees, are a powerful nation which are entirely erratic, without the least spe-
cies of cultivation, subsisting solely by the chase. Their wanderings are confined to the
frontiers of New Mexico on the west, the nations on the Lower Red river on the south,
the Pawnees and Osage on the east, and the Utahs, Kyaways and various unknown nations
on the north. This nation, although entirely in our territories, is claimed exclusively by the
Spaniards, and may be said to be decidedly in their interest, notwithstanding the few
who lately paid a visit to Natchitoches. They are the only nation who border on the
Spanish settlements, which that government treats as an independent people. They are
by the Spaniards reputed brave; indeed they have given them some very strong evidence*
of this.
When I first entered the province of New Mexico, I was shewn various deserted
villages and towns beaten down, which had been destroyed by the letans in an invasion
of that province, when they were at war with the Spaniards about ten years since. From
the village of Agua Caliente they carried off at one time two hundred head of horses,
but they are now on an excellent understanding with the Spaniards, which Don
Faciendo Malgares's late expedition has served very much to strengthen. He personally
related his rencontre with the 1etans in the following manner:—Having been previously
apprised of each other's approximation, and appointed a time for the Indians to receive
him on an extensive prairie, he sallied fortli from his camp with five hundred men all oo
white horses, excepting himself and his two principal officers, who rode jet black ones,
and was received on the plain by one thousand five hundred of those savages, dressed in
their gay robes and displaying their various feats of chivalry. I leave this subject to the
judicious, whether the circumstance would not be handed down to the latest posterity, as
an instance of the good will and respect which the Spaniards paid their nation, as no
doubt Malgares had policy sufficient to induce them to believe that the expedition
was fitted out principally with the view of paying them a visit.
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 215
possibility of performing the tour in the time proposed, I determined
to spare no pains to accomplish every object I had in contemplation,
even should it oblige me to spend another winter in the desert.
Killed one buifalo and one blaireau. Distance advanced twenty-
four miles-
Wednesday, 12th November.—Was obliged to leave two horses
which entirely gave out. Missed the Spanish road. Killed one
buffalo. Distance advanced twenty miles.
Thursday, 13th November.—We marched at the usual hour. The
river banks began to be entirely covered with woods on both sides,
but no other species than cotton wood. Discovered very fresh
signs of Indians, and one of our hunters informed me he had seen a
man on horseback ascending a ravine on our left. Discovered signs
of war parties ascending the river. Wounded several buffaloes; killed
one turkey, the first we had seen since we left the Pawnees.
Friday, 14th November.—In the morning Dr. Robinson, one man,
and myself, went up the ravine on which the Indian was supposed
to have been seen, but could make no important discovery. Marched
at two o'clock, and passed a point of red rocks, and one large creek.
Distance advanced ten miles.
Saturday, 15th November.—Marched early. Passed two deep
creeks, and many high points of rocks; also, large herds of buffaloes.
At two o'clock in the afternoon, I thought I could distinguish a
mountain to our right, which appeared like a small blue cloud;
viewed it with the spy glass, and was still more confirmed in my
conjecture, yet only communicated it to Dr. Robinson, who was
in front with me, but in half an hour it appeared in full view before
us. When our small party arrived on the hill, they with one accord
gave three cheers to the Mexican mountains. Their appearance
can easily be imagined by those who have crossed the Alleghany,.
but their sides were white as if covered with snow, or a white stone,-
216 TRAVELS THROUGH
These proved to be a spur of the grand western chain of mountains,
which divide the waters of the Pacific from those of the Atlantic
Ocean, and divided the waters which empty into the bay of the
Holy Spirit, from those of the Mississippi, as the Alleghany do
those that discharge themselves into the latter river, and the
Atlantic. They appeared to present a boundary between the
province of Louisiana, and North Mexico, and would be a defined
and natural limit. Before evening we discovered a fork on the
south side, bearing S. 25° W. and as the Spanish troops appeared
to have borne up it, we encamped on its banks, about one mile from
its confluence, that we might make further discoveries on the
morrow. Killed three buffaloes. Distance advanced twenty-four
miles,
Sunday', 16th November.—After ascertaining that the Spanish troops
had ascended the right branch or main river, we marched at two
o'clock P. M. The Arkansaw appeared at this place to be much
more navigable than below where we had first struck it, and for any
impediment I have yet discovered in the river, I would not hesitate
to embark in February at its mouth, and ascend to the Mexicaa
mountains, with crafts properly constructed. Distance advanced
•eleven miles and a half.
Monday, 17th November.—Marched at our usual hour: pushed on
•with an idea of arriving at the mountains, but found at night no
visible difference in their appearance from what we had observed
yesterday. One of our horses gave out and was left in a ravine,
not being able to ascend the hill; but I sent back for him, and had
him brought to the camp. Distance advanced twenty-tlwee miles
and a half.
Tuesday, 18th November.—As we discovered fresh signs of the
savages, we concluded it best to stop and kill some meat, for fear we
should get into a country where we could not obtain game. Sent
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 217
out the hunters. I walked myself to an eminence, from whence I
took the courses to .the different mountains, and a small sketch of
their appearance. In the evening found the hunters had killed
without mercy, having slain seventeen buffaloes, ami wounded at
least twenty more.
Wednesday, 19th November.—Having several carcasses brought in,
I gave out sufficient meat to last this month. I found it expedient
to remain and dry the meat, for our horses were getting very weak,
and the one died which was brought in yesterday. Had a general
feast of marrow bones; one hundred and thirty-six of them furnish-
ing the repast.
Thursday, 20th November.—Marched at OUT usual hour, but as
our horses' loads were considerably augmented by the death of one,
and the addition of nine hundred pounds of meat, we moved slowty,
and made only eighteen miles. Killed two buffalo cows, and took
some choice pieces.
Friday, 21st November.—Marched at our usual hour: passed two
Spanish camps within three miles of each other. We again dis-
covered the tracts of two men who had ascended the river yesterday.
This caused us to move with caution, but at the same time increased
our anxiety to discover them. The river was certainly as navigable
here, and I think much more so, than some Imndred miles below,
which I suppose to arise from its flowing through a long course of
sandy soil, which must absorb much of the water, and render it
shoaler below than above near the mountains. Distance advanced
twenty-one miles.
Saturday, 22d November.—Marched early, and with rather more
caution than usual. After having proceeded about five miles on the
prairie, and as those in front were descending into the bottom,
Baroney cried out, "Voila un sauvage," when we observed a number
of Indians running from the woods towards us. We advanced towards
FF
21ft TRAVELS THROUGH
themi sait\ on turning my head to the left, I observed several running
on the hill, as it were to surround us; one of them bearing a stand
of colour*. This caused a momentary halt, but perceiving those in
front reaching out their hands, and without arms, we again ad-
vanced. They met us with open arms, crowding round to touch and
embrace us. They appeared so anxious, that I dismounted from
my horse, and in a moment a fellow had mounted him and driven
off". I then observed the Doctor and Baroney in the same predica-
ment. The Indians were embracing the soldiers. After some time
tranquillity was- so far restored, they having returned our horses all
safe, as to enable us to learn they were a war party from the Grand
Pawnees, who had been in search of the letans, but not finding
them, were now on their return. An unsuccessful war party on
their way home are always ready to embrace an opportunity of
gratifying their disappointed vengeance on the first persons they-,
meet.
We made for the woods and unloaded our horses,,when the two
leaders endeavoured to arrange the party; it was with great difficulty
they got them*;tranquil, and not until there had been a bow or two -.
ben ton the occasion. When in some order, we found them to be
sixty warriors, half with fire arms,.and half with bows,arrows, and
lances. Our party was in all sixteen. In a short time they were
arranged in a ring, and I took my seat between the two leaders::
our colours were placed opposite each other; the utensils for smoking,.
&c. being prepared on.a small seat before us.. Thus far all was
well. I then ordered half a carrot of tobacco, one dozen knives,,
sixty fire steels, and sixty flints to be presented to them. They de-
manded corn, ammunition, blankets, .kettles, &c. all of which they
were refused, notwithstanding the. pressing instances of my inter-
preter to accede to some points. The pipes yet lay unmoved, as if
they were undetermined whether to treat us as friends or as enemies;;
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA.
but after some time we were presented with a kettle of water, drank,
smoked, and ate together. During this time Dr. Robinson was stand-
ing up to observe their actions, in order that, if necessary, we might
be ready to commence hostilities as soon as they. The Indians now took
their presents and commenced distributing them, but some malcon-
tents threw them away, as if out of contempt. We began to load out
horses, when they encircled us and commenced stealing every thing
they could. Finding it was difficult to preserve my pistols, £
mounted my horse, when I found myself frequently surrounded*
during which some were endeavouring to steal the pistols. The
doctor was equally engaged in another quarter, and all the soldiers
at their several posts, taking things from them. One having stolen
my tomahawk, I informed the chief, but he paid no respect to my
remonstrance, except to reply, that " they were pitiful." Finding
this, we determined to protect ourselves as far as was in our power*
and the affair began to wear a serious aspect. I ordered my men
to take their arms, and separate themselves from the savages; at the
same time declaring to them I would kill the first man who touched
our baggage, on which they commenced filing off immediately'.
We marched about the same time, and found after they had left us,
that they had contrived to steal one sword, a tomahawk, a broad
axe, five canteens, and sundry other small articles. When I reflected
on the subject I felt sincerely mortified, that the smallness of my
number obliged me thus to submit to the insults of lawless banditti,
it being the first time a savage had ever taken any thing from me
with the least appearance of force.
After encamping at night, the doctor and myself went about one
mile back, and waylaid the road, determined, in case we discovered
any of the rascals pursuing us to steal our horses, to kill two at leasts
but after waiting behind some logs until some time in the night, and
discovering no person, we returned to camp. Distance advanced*
seventeen miles. Killed two buffaloes, and one deer.
*20 TRAVELS THROUGH
Sunday, 23d November.—Marched at ten o'clock. At one carats
up to the third fork on the south side, and encamped at night on the
point of the Grand Forks. As the river appeared to be dividing
itself into several small branches, and of course must be near its
extreme source, I concluded to put my party in a defensible situa-
tion, and ascend the north fork to the high point of the Blue Moun-
tain, which we conceived would be one day's march; in order to be
enabled from its summit, to lay down the various branches of the
river, and the positions of the country. Distance advanced, nineteen
miles. Killed five buffaloes.
Monday, 24th November.—Early in the morning cut down fourteen
logs, and put up a breast-work five feet high on three sides, and the
other was thrown on the river. After giving the necessary orders foF
the government of my men, during my absence, in case of our not re-
turning, we marched at one o'clock with an idea of arriving at the
foot of the mountain, but found ourselves obliged to take up ous
lodging this night under a single cedar, which we found in the
prairie, without water, and extremely cold. Our party, besides
myself, consisted of Dr. Robinson,.and privates. Miller and,Brown*
Distance advanced twelve miles.
Tuesday, 25th November.—Marched early, with the expectation of
ascending the mountain, but was only able to encamp at its base,
after passing over many small hills'covered with cedars and pitch
pines. Our encampment was on a creek; we found no'water fou
several miles from.the mountain, but near its.base found springs
sufficient. Took a meridional observation, and the altitude of the
mountain. Killed two buffaloes- Distance advanced twenty-two miles ,
and a half,
Wednesday, 2(5th November.—Expecting- to return, to our camp
that evening, we left all our blankets and provision at the foot off
the mountain. Killed a deer of a new species, and hung his,skinn
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA.
on a tree with some meat. We commenced ascending: found the
way very difficult, being obliged to climb up rocks sometimes almost
perpendicular; and after marching all day we encamped in a cave
without blankets, victuals, or water. "We had a fine clear sky,
whilst it was snowing at the bottom. On the side of the moun-
tain we found only yellow and pitch pine; some distance up'
we saw buffalo; and higher still, the new species of deer and phea-
sants.
Thursday, 27'th November.—Arose hungry, thirsty, and extremely
sore, from the unevenness of the rocks on which we had lain all
night; but were amply compensated for our toil by the sublimity
of the prospects below. The unbounded prairie was overhung
with clouds, which appeared like the ocean in a storm, wave piled'
on wave, and foaming, whilst the sky over our heads was perfectly
clear. Commenced our march up the mountain, and in about one
hour arrived at the summit of this chain; here we found the snow
middle deep, and discovered no sign of beast or bird inhabiting this-
region. The thermometer which stood at 9° above 0 at the foot of
the mountain, here fell to 4° below. The summit of the Grand
Peak, which- was entirely bare of vegetation, and covered with
snow, now appeared at the distance of fifteen or sixteen miles from
us, and as high again as that we had ascended: it would have
taken a whole day's march to have arrived at its base, when I be-
lieve no human being could have ascended to its summit. This,
with the condition of my soldiers, who had only light overhauls on,
and no stockings, and were every way ill provided to endure the in-
clemency of this region, the bad prospect of killing any thing to
subsist on, with the further detention of two or three days which it
must occasion, determined us to return.. The clouds from below had
now ascended the mountain, and entirely enveloped the summit on
which rest eternal snows. We descended by a long deep ravine with*
TRAVELS THROUGH
much less difficulty than we had contemplated. Found all our
baggage safe, but the provision all destroyed. It began to snow,
and we sought shelter under the side of a projecting rock, where we
all four made a meal on one partridge, and a pair of deer's ribs,
which the ravens had left us, being the first food we.had eaten for
forty-eight hours.
Friday, 28th November—Marched at nine o'clock. Kept straight
down the creek to avoid the hills. At half past one o'clock shot
two buffaloes, when we made the first full meal we had eaten for
three days. Encamped in a valley under a shelving rock. The
land here was very rich, and covered with old letan camps.
Saturday, 29th November.—Marched after a short repast, and
.arrived at our camp before night. Found all well.
From the entrance of the Arkansaw into the mountains to its
source, it is alternately bounded by perpendicular precipices, or
small narrow prairies, on which the buffalo and elk have found
means to arrive, and are almost secure from danger, and from their
destroyer, man. In many places the river precipitates itself over
rocks, so as to be at one moment visible only in the foaming and
boiling of its waters, at the next dissappearing in the chasms of
the over-hanging precipices.
The Arkansaw river, taking its meanders, is one thousand nine
hundred and eighty-one miles from its junction with the Mississippi to
the mountains, and from thence to its source onehundred and ninety-
two miles, making its total length two thousand one hundred and
seventy-three miles, all of which may be navigated with proper
boats, constructed for the purpose; except the one hundred and
ninety-two miles in the mountains. It receives several small rivers,
which are navigable for one huuJred miles and upwards. Boats
bound up the Avhole length of the navigation should embark at its
entrance on the first of February, when they would have the fresh
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 223
quite to the mountains, and meet with no detentions; but if later,
they will find the river one thousand five hundred miles up, nearly
dry. It has one singularity which, struck me very forcibly at first
view, but on reflection I was induced to believe the case to be the
same with all rivers whose courses lie through a low, dry, and sandy
soil in warm climates.. For the extent of four or five hundred miles
before you arrive at the mountains, the bed of the river is exten-
sive, and a perfect sand bar, which at certain seasons is dry, at least
the water is standing in ponds, not affording sufficient to procure a
running course from one to the other: when you come nearer the
mountains, you find the river contracted, with a gravelly bottom, and:
a deep navigable stream. From which circumstances it is evident,
that the sandy soil imbibes all the waters, which the sources project
from the hills, and renders the river, in dry seasons, less navigable
at the distance of five hundred than at two hundred miles from
its source.
The borders of the Arkansaw may be termed the paradise
terrestrial of our territories for the wandering savages. Of all the
countries ever visited by the footsteps of civilized man, there never
was one probably that produced game in greater abundance, and
•we know that the manners and morals of the erratic nations are
such (die reasons I leave to be given by Ontologists) as never to
give them a numerous population, and I believe that there are buf-
falo, elk, and deer sufficient on the borders of the Arkansaw alone,
if used without waste, to feed all the savages of the United States
territory for one century.
By the route of the Arkansaw, and the Rio Colorado of Cali-
fornia, I am confident in asserting (if my information be correct)
there can be established the best communication on this side the
Isthmus of Darien,. between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans; as,,
admitting the utmost, the land carriage would not be more than.
two hundred miles, and the route may be made quite as eligible-'
224 TRAVELS THROUGH
as our public highways over the Alleghany mountains. The Rio
Colorado is to the great gulph of California, what the Mississippi is
to the Gulph of Mexico, and is navigable for ships of considerable
•burthen, opposite to the upper part of the province of Senora.
Sunday, SOth November.—We commenced our march at eleven
o'clock, it snowing vey fast, but my impatience to be moving would
not permit me to lie still at our present camp. The doctor, Baroncy,
and myself went to view an letan encampment, Avhich appeared to
be about two years old, and from the occupiers having cut down
so large a quantity of trees to support their horses, we concluded
there must have been at least one thousand soul;.. Past several
more in the course of the day, also one Spanish camp. Distance
advanced fifteen miles. Killed two deer. This day came to the first
cedar and pine, except the few we had seen in the mountains.
Monday, 1st December.—The storm still continuing with violence,
we remained encamped; the snow by night was one foot deep, our
horses being obliged to scrape it away to obtain their miserable pit-
tance. To increase their misfortune, the poor animals were attacked
by the magpies, which, attracted by the scent of their sore backs,
alighted on them, and in defiance of their whinnying and kicking,
picked many places quite raw; the difficulty of procuring food ren-
dered these birds so bold as to light on our men's arms, and eat
meat out of their hands. One of our hunters was out, but killed no-
thing.
Tuesday, 2d December.—It cleared off in the night, and in the
morning the thermometer stood at 17* below 0 (Reaumeure), being
throe times as cold as any morning we had yet experienced. We
killed an old buffalo on the opposite side of the river, which here
was so deep as to swim horses. Marched, and found it necessary to
cross to the north side, about two miles up, as the ridge joined the
river. The ford was a good one, but the ice ran very bad, and two
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. <225
of the men had their feet frozen, before we could"get accommodated
with fire, &c. Secured some of our old buffalo, and continued our
march. The country being very rugged and hilly, one of our horses
took a freak in his head and turned back, which occasioned three of
our rearguard to lie out all night; I was very apprehensive they might
perish in the open prairie. Distance advanced, thirteen miles.
Wednesday, 3d December.—The weather moderating to 3° below 0,
our absentees joined us, one with his feet frozen, but they were not
able to bring up the horse; sent two men back on horseback. The hard-
ships of my last voyage now began to be again experienced, and had
the climate been as severe as that to which I was thea exposed, some
of the men must have perished, for they had no winter clothing. I
wore myself cotton overhauls, for I had not calculated on being out
in this inclement season of the year. Dr. Robinson, and myself,
with assistants, went out and took the altitude of the north mountain
on the base of a mile;* after which, together with Sparks,, we en-
deavoured to kill a cow, but without effect. Killed two bulls, that
the men might take pieces of their hides for mockinsons. Left
Sparks oat On our return to camp, found the men had got back
with the strayed horse, but too late to march. , . >•• *i
Thursday, 4th December.—Marched about five o'clock. Took up
Sparks, who had succeeded in killing a cow. Killed two buftalbe*
and six turkies. Distanae advanced, twenty miles.
* The perpendicular height of the mountain from the level of the prairie, we found to be
ten thousand five hundred and eighty-one feet^and admitting the prairie to be eight thousand
feet above the level of the sea, it would make the elevation of this peak eighteen thousand'
five hundred and«ighty-one feet, equal to that of some, and surpassing the calculated height
of others for the peak of Tcncriffc, and falling short of that of Chiinborazo only one thou-'
sand seven hundred and one feet. Indeed, it was so remarkable as to be known to all the
savage nations for hundred? pf miles round, and to be spoken of with admiration by the
Spaniards of New Mexico, and formed the bounds of their travels to the N. XV. In our
wandering in the mountains from the 14th November to the 47th January, it was never
out of our sight, except when we were in a valley.
G G
226 TRAVELS THROUGH
Friday, 5th December.—Marched at our usual hour. Passed one
very bad place of falling rocks, where we had to carry our loads.
Encamped on the main branch of the river, near the entrance of
the South mountain. In the evening, walked up to the mountain.
Heard fourteen guns at camp, during my absence, which alarmed
me considerably; returned as quickly as possible, and found that the
pause of my alarm arose from their shooting turkies. Killed two
buffaloes and nine turkies. Distance advanced, eighteen miles.
Saturday, 6th December.—Sent out three different parties to hunt
the Spanish trace, but without success. The doctor and myself
followed the river into the mountain, which was bounded on each
side by rocks two hundred feet high, leaving a small valley of fifty
or sixty feet. Killed two buffaloes, two deer, and one turkey. ..
Sunday, 7th December.--We again despatched parties in search of
the'Spanish trace. One party discovered it on the other side of the
river, and followed it into the valley of the stream at the entrance of
the mountains, where they met two parties who were returning
from exploring the two branches of the river; of which they
reported, that they had ascended until the river was merely a brook,
bounded on both sides with perpendicular rocks, impracticable for
horses ever. to pass. They then recrossed the river to the north side
and discovered, as they supposed, that the Spanish troops had as-
cended a dry valley to the right. On their return they found some
rock salt, samples of which were brought me. We determined to
march on the morrow to the entrance of the valley, there to ex-
amine the salt and the road. Killed one wild cat. ',
, . • , • • . i . . •
Monday, 8th December.—On examining the trace found yesterday,
conceived it to have been only that of a reconnoitring party des-
patched from the main body; and on analysing the rock salt, found
It to be strongly impregnated with sulphur, and there were some very
?trong sulphurated springs at its base. Returned to camp, took
with me Dr. Robinson and Miller, and descended the river, in.order
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 227
to discover certainly if the whole party had come by this route.
Descended about seven miles on the south side. Saw great numbers
of turkies, and deer. Killed one of the latter.
Tuesday, 9th December.—Before we marched, killed a fine buck at
our camp, as he was passing. I found the Spanish camp, about four
miles below, and from every observation we could make conceived
they had ascended the river. Returned to camp, where we arrived
about two o'clock, and found all well; would have moved immedi-
ately, but four men were out reconnoitring. Killed three deer.
Wednesday, 10th December.—Marched, and found the road over
the mountain to be excellent. Encamped on a dry ravine. Obliged
to melt snow for ourselves and horses. And as there was nothing
else for the latter to eat, gave them one pint of com each. Killed
one buffalo.
Thursday, 11th December.—Marched at ten o'clock, and after pro-
ceeding one mile, struck a branch of the Arkansaw, on which the
supposed Spaniards had encamped, where there were both water and
grass. Kept along this branch, but was frequently embarrassed as
to the trace. At three o'clock, P. M. having no sign of it, halted
and encamped, and went out to search for it; found it about one
mile to the right. Distance advanced fifteen miles.
Friday, 12th December.—Marched at cine o'clock; continued up
the same branch as yesterday. The ridges on bur right and left
appeared to grow lower, but mountains appeared on our flanks
through the intervals covered with snow. Owing to the weakness of
our horses made only twelve miles.
Saturday, 13th December.—Marched at the usual hour, and passed
large springs and the supposed Spanish camp; at twelve o'clock
passed a dividing ridge, and immediately fell on a small branch
running N. 20° W. There being no appearance of wood we
left it, together with the Spanish trace, to our right, and made for the
hills to encamp. After the halt I took my gun, and went out to see
G G 2
228 TRAVELS THROUGH
what discovery I could make. After marching about two miles
north, fell on a river forty yards wide frozen over, which after some
investigation I found ran north-east. This was the occasion of much
surprise, as we were taught to expect to meet with the branches of
the Red river, which should have run south-east. Query, must it not
be the head water of the river Plate? If so, the Missouri must run
much more to the \?est than is generally represented. For the Plate
is a small river by no means calculated to excite an expectation of so
extensive a course *. Distance advanced eighteen miles. One horse
gave out and was left. i
Sunday, 14th December.—Struck the river upon our march ; as-
cended it four miles and encamped on the northern side. The
prairie being about two miles wide, was covered for at least sis miles
along the banks of the river, with horse dung and the marks of In-
dian camps, which had been stationed here since the cold weather
had set in, as was evident by the fires which were in the centre of the
lodges. The signs made by their horses were astonishing, and must
have taken one thousand cattle some months to have left them. As it
was impossible to say which course the Spaniards had pursued amongst
the multiplicity of signs which now appeared, we halted early, and
discovered that they, or the savages, had ascended the river. We
determined to pursue the route. As the geography of the country
had turned out to be so different from our expectations, we were
somewhat at a loss which course to pursue, unless we attempted to
cross the snow-capt mountains to the south-east of us, which ap-
peared almost impossible. On this day burst one of our rifles,
which was a great loss, as it was the third gun that had burst, and
* Mu,<?b. light, has been, thrown on the geography of the countries adjacent to the
Missouri, by the journey of Captains Lewis and Clarke, to the source of that river, and
across the dividing ridge of the Stony mountains to the Pacific. There seems little
doubt of the correctness of Mr. Pike's suggestion, that this stream composed a main
branch of the Plate, and it is accordingly so laid down in his own large chart. £.
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 329
the fifth broken on the march. One of my men was now armed with
my sword and pistols. Killed two buffaloes.
Monday, 15th December.—After repairing the guns, we marched,
but were obliged to leave another horse. Ascended the river, both
sides of which were covered with old Indian camps, at which we
found corn cribs; we were induced to believe that these savages, al-
though erratic, must remain long enough in one place to cultivate
grain; or must obtain it of the Spaniards. From their sign they
must have been extremely numerous, and have possessed vast num-
bers of horses.
My poor fellows now suffered extremely from the cold, being
almost naked. Distance advanced ten miles.
Tuesday, 16th December.—Marched up the river about two miles
and killed a buffalo. When, finding no road up the stream, we halted,
and despatched parties in different directions. The Doctor and my-
self ascending high enough to enable me to lay down the course of
the river into the mountains. From a high ridge we reconnoitred
the adjacent country, and resolved to put the Spanish trace out of
the question, and to shape our course south-west for the head of
Red river. One of our party found a large camp which had been
occupied by at least three thousand Indians with a large cross in the
middle. Are these people Catholics?
Wednesday, 17th December.—On striking a left hand fork of the
river we had left, found it to be the main branch, and ascended it
some distance; but finding it to bear too much to the north, we en-
camped about two miles from its banks for the purpose of bene-
fiting by its water. Distance advanced fifteen miles. • •> •
Thursday, 18th December.—Crossed the mountain which lay sooth-
west of us. In a distance of seveH miles arrived at a smali spring.
Some of our men observed they supposed it to be the Ited river, to
which I then gave very little credit. On entering1 a gap in the next
mountain, came to an excellent spring which formed a fine creek:
this we followed through,narrows in the mountain for about six
230 TRAVELS THROUGH
miles. Found many evacuated camps of Indians, the latest yet
seen. After pointing out the ground for the encampment, the doc-
tor and myself went on to make discoveries, as was our usual cus-
tom, and in about four miles march, struck what we supposed to
be Red river, which here was about twenty-five yards wide; ran
with great rapidity, and was full of rocks. We returned to the
party with the news, which gave general pleasure. Determined to
remain a day or two in order to examine the source. Distance ad-
vanced eighteen miles. Snowy weather.
Friday, 19th December.—Marched down the creek, near the open-
ing of the prairie, and encamped. Sent out parties hunting, but
had no success. Still snowing and stormy. Making preparations
to take an observation.
Saturday, 20th December.—Having found a fine place for pas-
ture on the river, sent our horses down to it with a guard. Also,
three parties out a hunting, all of whom returned without success.
Took an observation. As there was no prospect of killing any
game, it was necessary that the party should leave this place. I
therefore determined that the doctor and Baroney should descend
the river in the morning; that myself and two men would ascend,
and the rest of the party descend after the doctor, until they ob-
tained provision, and could wait for me. -.'
Sunday, 21st December.—The doctor and Baroney marched; the
party remained for me to take a meridional observation, after which
we separated. Myself, and the two men who accompanied me
(Mountjoy and Miller), ascended for twelve miles, and encamped
on the north side of the river, continuing close to the north moun-
tain, and running through a narrow rocky channel, in some places
not more than twenty feet wide, and at least ten feet deep. Its
banks bordered with yellow pine, cedar, £c. . . ...
Monday, 22d December.—Marched up thirteen miles farther, to a
large point of the mountain, whence we, had a view ;.pf at least
thirty-five miles, to where the river entered the mountain, it being
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 231
at that place not more than ten or fifteen feet \vide; and, properly
speaking, only a brook. From this place, after taking the course
and estimating the distance, we returned to our camp of last even-
ing. Killed a turkey and a hare.
Tuesday, 23d December.—Marched early, and at two o'clock, P.M.
discovered the trail of the party on the opposite side of the river;
forded it, although extremely, cold, and marched until some time
in the night, when we arrived at the second night's encampment of
the party. Our clothing was frozen stiff, and we ourselves were
considerably benumbed.
Wednesday, 24th December.—The parties' provision extending only
to the 23d, and their orders being not to halt until they killed some
game, and then wait for us, they might have been considerably ad-
vanced. About eleven o'clock met Dr. Robinson on a prairie, who
informed me that he and Baroney had been absent from the party
two days, without killing any thing, also without eating; but that
over night they had killed four buffaloes, and that he was in search
of die men. I suffered the ,two men who were with me to go to the
camp where the meat was, as we had also been nearly two days
without eating. The doctor and myself pursued the trail, and found
them encamped on the river's bottom. Sent out horses for the meat;
shortly after, Sparks arrived, and informed us he had killed four
cows. Thus, from being in a starving condition, we had at once
eight beeves in our camp. We now again found ourselves all assem-
bled together on Christmas eve, and appeared generally to be con-
tent, although all the refreshment we had to celebrate the day with
was buffalo fleshv without salt, pr any qther thing whatever.
My little excursion up the river had .been undertaken with the
view of establishing the geography of the sources' of the (supposed)
Bed river, as I well knew the indefatigable researches of Dr. Hunter,
t)unba'r, and Freeman, had left nothing unnoticed in the extent of
their,voyage up that stream. I determined that its upper branches
should be equally well explored, as in this voyage I had already as-
232 TRAVELS THROUGH
certained the sources of the Osage and *White rivers, been round
the head of the Kanses river, and on the head waters of the Plate.
Thursday, 25th December.—The weather being stormy, and hav-
ing some meat to dry, I concluded to lie by this day. Here I must
take the liberty of observing that in this situation the hardships and
privations we underwent, were on this day brought more fully to our
minds than at any time previously. We had before been occasionally
accustomed to some degree of relaxation, and extra enjoyments;
but the case was now far different: eight hundred miles from the
frontiers of our country, in the most inclement season of the year;
not one person properly clothed for the winter, many without
blankets, having been obliged to cut them up for socks and other
articles; lying down too at night on the snow or wet ground, one
side burning whilst the other was pierced with the cold wind; this
was briefly the situation of the party: whilst some were endeavour-
ing to make a miserable substitute of raw buffalo hide for shoes,
and other covering. I will not speak of diet, as I conceive that to
be beneath the serious consideration of a man on a journey of such
a nature. We spent this day as agreeably as could be expected
from men in our circumstances. Caught a bird of a new species, by
a trap made for him.-f*
Friday, 26th December.—Marched at two o'clock and made seven
miles and a half to the entrance of the mountains. On this piece of
prairie the river spread considerably, and formed several small
* Comparing Mr. Pike's map with his journal, it certainly does not appeal- that he
saw the White river, having mistaken for it a branch of the Arkansaw. E.
t This bird was of a green colour, almost the size of a quail, and had a small tuft on
its head like a pheasant, and was of the carnivorous species; it differed from any bird
we ever saw in the United States. We kept it with us in a small wicker cage, feeding
it on meat, until I left the interpreter on the Arkansaw, to whose care I commuted it.
We at one time took a companion of the same species, and put him in the same cage,
when the first resident never ceased attacking the stranger, until he had killed him.
THE 1'OTERlOft OF LOUISIANA.
islands. A large stream enters from the south. As my boy and
some others were unwell, I omitted pitching our tent, in order that
they might have it; in consequence of which we were completely
covered with snow, as well as having it for our bed.
Saturday, 27th Decem&er.—Marched over an extremely rough road,
our horses frequently fell and cut themselves considerably on the
rocks. From there being no roads of buffaloes, or sign of horses, I
am convinced that neither these animals, nor the Aborigines of the
country ever take this route to go from the source of the river out of
the mountains > but that they must cross one of the chains to the
right or left, and find a smoother tract to the lower country. We
were obliged to unload our horses and carry the baggage at several
places. Distance advanced twelve miles and a half.
Sunday, 28th December.--Marched over an Open space and frdm
the appearance before us concluded we were going out of the moun-
tains, but at night encamped at the entrance of most perpendicular
precipices on both sides, through which the river ran and our course
lay. Distance advanced sixteen miles.
Monday, fcpth Detember.—Owing to the extreme ruggedness of the
road, we made but five miles march. Saw an animal of a new
species on the niountain, ascended to kill him, but did not suc-
ceed. Finding the impossibility of getting along with the horses
made one sledge, which with the men attached to three horses, car-
ried their load.
Tuesday, 30th December.—-At half past one o'clock were obliged to
halt on pur niatdi and send back for the sledge loads as they had
broken it, and could not proceed owing to the waters running over
the ice. Distance advanced eight miles. Crossed our horses twice
on the ice.
Wednesday, 31st tiecernber*—Marched. Had frequently to cross the
river oh the ice, during our march; the horses falling down, we were
obliged to pull them over on the ice. The rivef tufrled so much io
11 11
234 TRAVELS THROUGH
the north, as almost to induce us to believe ii was the Arkansas.
Distance advanced ten miles and three-quarters.
Thursday, 1st January, 180?.—The doctor and one man marched
early, in order to precede the party until they should kill a supply
of provision. We had great difficulty in getting our horses along,
some of the poor animals having nearly killed themselves by falling
on the ice. Found on the way one of the mountain rams which the
doctor and Brown had killed and left on the road. Skinned it
with horns, &c. At night ascended a mountain, and discovered a
prairie a-head about eight miles; the news of which gave great joy to
the party.
Friday, 2d January.—Laboured all day, but advanced only one
mile, many of our horses being much wounded in falling on the
rocks. Provisions growing short, left Stout and Miller with two
loads to come on with a sledge on the ice, which covered the
water in some of the coves. Finding it almost impossible to pro-
ceed any further with the horses by the lead of the river, ascended
the mountain, and immediately after were again obliged to descend
.an almost perpendicular side, in effecting which, one horse fell down
the precipice, and bruised himself so miserably, that I conceived it
mercy to cause the poor animal to be shot Many others were nearly
killed by falls. Left two men with loads and tools to make sledges.
The two men we had left in the morning had passed us.
Saturday, 3d January.—Left two more men to make sledges, and
to follow us. We pursued the river, and with great difficulty made
six miles, by frequently cutting roads on the ice, and covering it
with earth, in order to go round precipices that projected into the
course.
The men left in.the morning encamped with us at night, but we
saw nothing of those of the day before. This day two of the horses
became senseless, from the bruises received on the rocks, and we
twere obliged to leave them. ,
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 236
Sunday, 4th January.—We made the prairie about three o'clock,
when I detached Baroney and two soldiers with the horses, in order
to find some practicable way for them to get out of the mountains
without their loads. I then divided the others into two parties of two
men each, to make sledges, and bring on the baggage. I determined to
continue down the river alone, until I could kill some provision,
and find the two men who had left us on the second, or the doctor
and his companion, for we had now no food left, and every one had
to depend on his own exertions for safety and subsistence. Thus
we were divided into eight different parties, viz. first, the doctor
and his companion; second, the two men with the first sledge;
third, the interpreter and the two men with the horses; fourth,
myself; fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth, two men each, with
sledges, at different distances; all of whom, except the last, had
orders, if they killed any game, to secure some part in a conspicu-
ous place for their companions in the rear. I marched on about five
miles on the river, which was one continued fall through a narrow
channel, and immense cliffs on bbth sides. Near night I came to a
place where the rocks were perpendicular on both sides, and no
ice, except a narrow border on the water. I began to look about,
in order to discover which way the doctor and his companion had
managed, and to find what had become of the two men with the
first sledge; when I discovered one of the latter climbing up the
side of the rocks; I called to him, and he and his companion im-
mediately joined me. They said they had not known whether we
were before, or in the rear; that they had eaten nothing for the last
two days; and that this night they intended to have boiled a deer's
skin to subsist on. We at length discovered a narrow ravine, where
we observed the trace of the doctor and his companion ; as the water
had run over it and frozen hard, it was one continued sheet of ice;
we ascended with the utmost difficulty and danger, loaded with the
baggage. On the summit of the first ridge we found an encamp-
ment of the doctor's, where they had killed a deer, but they had
H H 2
TRAVELS THROUGH
now no meat. He afterwards informed me that they had left the
greatest part of it hanging on a tree, but supposed the birds had
destroyed it. I left the men to bring up the remainder of the baggage
and went out in order to kill something for subsistence: wounded
a deer but the darkness of the night approaching could not find him;
when I returned hungry, weary, and thirsty, and had only snow to
supply the calls of nature. Distance advanced eight miles.
Monday, 5th January.—I went out in the morning to hunt, whilst
the two men were bringing up^ some of their loads still left at the foot
of the mountain. Wounded several deer, but was suprised to find
I killed none, and on examining my gun found it bent; owing as I
suppose to some fall on the ice, or rocks. I shortly after received a,
fall on the side of a hill which broke it off" by the breech; this put me
into dispair, as I calculated on it, as my grandest resource for a great
portion of my party. Returned to my companions sorely fatigued
and hungry. I then took a double barrelled gun, and left them,
with assurances that the first animal I killed I would return with
part of for, their relict About ten •'clock rose the highest summit of
the mountain, when the unbounded extent of the prairies again pre-
sented itself to my view, and from some distant peaks, I immediately
recognized our situation to be one outlet of the Arkaiasaw, which we
had left nearly one month since. This was a great mortification, but
at the same time, I consoled myself with the knowledge I had ac-
quired of the source of the Plate and Arkansaw rivers, with the
river to the north-west, supposed to be the Pierre Jaun,* which
scarcely any person but a madman would ever purposely attempt to
trace any further than the entrance of these mountains, which had hi-
therto secured their sources from the scrutinizing eyeof civilized man.
* The Yellow Stone river branch of the Missouri. This rises a few miles to the
northward of the Plate river, nearly as high up as the sources of the Arjcausaw, but on
the djner side of a chain of mountains, about lat. 41*. 4S.*. It is remarkable that no
mention i» made in the proper place in the journal of the discovery of this stream.
From Mr. Pike's large chart, it appears to have beea seen by an exploring detachment
of bis party. E.
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 237
I arrived at the foot of the mountain and the bank of the river in
the afternoon, and at the same time discovered on the other shore
Baroney with the horses. They had found quite an eligible pass;
they had killed one buffalo and some deer. We proceeded to our old
camp, which we had left the tenth of December, and re-occupied it.
Saw the traces of the doctor and his companion, but could not disco-
ver the place of their retreat.
This was my birth day and most fervently did I hope never to pass
another so miserably. Distance advanced seven miles. Fired a gun
as a signal for the doctor. •
Tuesday, 6th Janumy,—Despatched the two soldiers back with
some provision to meet the first men and assist them on; and sent
the interpreter to hunt. About eight o'clock the doctor arrived, hav-
ing seen some of the men. He had been confined to the camp for
one or two days, by a-vertigo, which proceeded from some berries
he bad eaten on the mountains. His companion brought down six
deer which they had at their camp; thus we again began to be out
of danger of starving. In the afternoon, some of the men arrived,
and part were immediately sent back with provisions, &c. Killed
three deer.
Wednesday, 7th Januanj.—Sent more men back to assist in the rear,
and to carry the poor fellows provision: at the same time, kept
Baroney and one man hunting. Killed three deer.
Thursday^ 8th January.—Some of the different parties arrived. Put
one man to stocking my rifle. Others sent back to assist up the rear.
Killed two deer.
Friday, 9th January.—The whole party was once more joined to-
gether, when we felt comparatively happy, notwithstanding the great
mortifications I had experienced at being so egregiously deceived as
to the Red rirer. I now felt at considerable loss how to proceed, as
any idea of service at that time from my horses, was entirely pre»
posteroua, Thus, after various plans formed and rejected, and the
238 . TRAVELS THROUGH
most mature deliberation, I determined to build a small place for
defence and deposit, and leave part of the baggage, horses, my in-
terpreter, and one man; and with the remainder, with our packs of
Indian presents, ammunition, tools, &c. on our backs, to cross the
mountains on foot, find the Red river, and then send back a detach-
ment to conduct the horses and baggage after us, by the most eligi-
ble route we could discover; by which time we calculated our horses
would be so far recovered as to be able to endure the fatigue of the
march. In consequence of this determination, some were put to
constructing block houses, some to hunting, some to take care
of horses, &c. &c. I myself made preparations to pursue a course
of observations, that would enable me to ascertain the latitude and
longitude of the situation, which I conceived to be an important
one. Killed three deer.
Saturday, 10th January.—Killed five deer. Took equal altitudes,
angular distances of two stars, &c. but now do not recollect which.
Killed three more deer.
Sunday, 11th January.—Ascertained the latitude, and took the
angular distances of some stars. Killed four deer.
Monday, 12th January.—Preparing the baggage for a march, by
separating it, &c. Observations continued.
Tuesday, 13th January.—Weighed out each man's pack. This
day I obtained the angle between the sun and moon, which I con-
ceived the most correct way I possessed of ascertaining the longi-
tude, as an immersion or emersion of Jupiter's satellites could not
now be obtained. Killed four deer.
Wednesday, 14th January.—We marched our party, consisting of
eleven soldiers, the doctor, and myself, each of us carrying forty-
five pounds, and as much provision as he thought proper; which,
with arms, &c. made on an average seventy pounds, leaving Ba-
roney and one man, Patrick Smith, behind. We crossed the first
ridge, leaving the main branch of the river to the north of us, and
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 239
struck on the south fork, on which we encamped, intending to pur-
sue it through the mountains, as its course was more southerly. The
doctor killed one deer. Distance advanced thirteen miles.
Thursday, 15th January.—Followed up this branch and passed the
main ridge of what I term the Blue mountains. Halted early; the
doctor, myself, and one hnnter, went out with our guns, each killed a
deer and brought them into camp. Distance advanced nineteen
miles.
Friday, 16th January.—Marched up the Creek all day. Encamp-
ed early, as it was snowing. I went out to hunt, but killed nothing.
Deer on the hills and mountains lessening- Distance advanced eigh-
teen miles.
Saturday, 17th January.—Marched about four miles when the
greatWhite mountain presented itself before us: in sight of which we
had been for more than a month, and through which we supposed
lay the long sought Red river. We now left the Creek on the north
of us, and bore away more east to a low place in the mountains.
About sun set we came to the edge of a prairie, which bounded the
foot of the mountain, and as there was no wood or water where we
were, and the wood from the skirts of the mountain appeared to be
at no great distance, I thought proper to march for it. In the middle
of the prairie .crossed the Creek, which now bore almost east. Here
we all got pur feet wet. The night commenced extremely cold.
When we halted at the woods at eight o'clock for encampment, after
getting fires made, we discovered that the feet of nine of our men
were frozen, and to add to the misfortune, of both of those whom
we called hunters among the number. This night we had no pro-
vision. Distance advanced twenty-eight miles. Reauineure's ther-
I t^f i. O • ft *
mometer stood at 18£° below 0.-, ... ,;. -t: ;,..;-.; ;•; ....
Sunday, 18th January.—We started out two of the men least in-
jured; the doctor and myself, (who fortunately were untqviched by
the frost) also went out to hunt for something to preserve existence.
240 TRAVELS THROUGH
Near evening we wounded a buffalo with three balls, but had the
mortification to see him run off notwithstanding. We concluded it
was useless to go home to add to the general gloom, and wenf
amongst some rocks were we encamped, and sat up all night; as
from the intense cold it was impossible to sleep: also, hungry and
without cover.
Monday, 19th January.—We again took the field, and after crawl-
ing about one mile in the snow got to shoot eight times among a
gang of buffaloes, and could plainly perceive two or three to be badly
wounded, but by accident they took the wind of us, and to our
great mortification were all able to run off. By this time I was be-
come extremely weak and faint, being the fourth day since we had
received sustenance, the whole of which time we were marching hard,
and the last night had scarcely closed our eyes to sleep. We were
then inclining our course to a point of wood, determined to remain
absent and die by ourselves rather than return to our camp and be-
hold the misery of our poor companions; when we discovered a gang
of buffaloes coming along at some distance. With great exertion I
made out to run and place myself behind some cedars, and by the
greatest good luck the first shot stopped one, which we killed in
three more shots, and by the dusk had cut each of us a heavy load,
with which we determined immediately to proceed to the camp in
order to relieve the anxiety of our men, and carry them some relief.
We arrived there about twelve o'clock, and when I threw mv load
«/
down, it was with difficulty I prerented myself from falling: I was
attacked with a giddiness which lasted for some minutes. On the
countenances of the men was not a frown, nor was there a desponding
eye; all seemed happy to hail their officer and companions; yet not
a mouthful had they eaten for four da^s. On demanding what were
their thoughts, the sergeant replied, the most robust had determined
•te set oHt on the morrow in search of us; and not return unless
. ». .* V • . •
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 241
they found us, or killed something to preserve the lives of their starv-
ing companions.
Tuesday, 20th January.—The doctor and all the meq able to
march, returned to the buffalo to bring in the remainder of the
meat.
On examining the feet of those who were frozen, we found it im-
possible for two of them to proceed. And two others only without
loads by the help of a stick. One of the former was my waiter, a pro-
mising young lad of twenty, whose feet where so badly frozen as to
present every probability of his loosing them.
The doctor and party returned towards evening loaded with the
buffalo meat.
Wednesday, 21st January.—This day separated the four loads we
intended to leave, and took them at some distance from the camp,
where we secured them. I went up to the foot of the mountain, to
see what prospect there was of being able to cross it, but had not
more than fairly arrived at its base when I found the snow four or
five feet deep; this obliged me to determine to proceed and cotoyer
the mountains to the south, where it appeared lower, and until we
found a place where we could cross.
Thursday, 22d January.—I furnished the two poor fellows who
were to remain with ammunition, and made use of every argument
in my power to encourage them to have fortitude to resist their fate:
and gave them assurances of my sending relief as soon as possible.
We parted, but not without tears. We pursued our march, taking
merely sufficient provision for one meal, in order to leave as much as
possible for the two poor fellows who remained, (who were Thomas
Dougherty and John Sparks). We went on eight miles and encamp-
ed on a little creek, which came down from the mountains. At three
o'clock went out to hunt, but found nothing. Little snow.
Friday, 23d January.—After shewing the sergeant a point to steer
for, tlie doctor and .myself proceeded on a-head, in hopes of killing
i i
242 TRAVELS THROUGH
something, as we were again without victuals. About one o'clock it
commenced snowing very hard. We retreated to a small copse of
pine, where we constructed a camp to shelter us, and as it was time
the party should arrive, we sallied forth to search for them.
We separated, and had not marched more than one or two miles,
when I found it impossible to keep any course without the compass
continually in my hand, and then not being able to see more than
ten yards. I began to perceive the difficulty even of finding the
way back to our camp; and I can scarcely conceive a more dreadful
idea than that of remaining on the wild, where inevitable death
must have ensued. It was with great pleasure I again reached the
camp, where I found the doctor had arrived before me. We lay
down and strove to dissipate the ideas of hunger and our misery, by
the. thoughts of our far distant homes and relatives. Distance ad-
vanced eight miles.
Saturday, 24th January.—We sallied out in the morning, and
shorty after perceived our little band marching through the snow,
then about two feet and a half deep, silent and with downcast
countenances. We joined them, and learnt that finding the snow to
fall so thickly that it was impossible to proceed, they had encamped
about one o'clock the preceding day. As I found all the buffaloes
had left the plains, I determined to attempt the traverse of the
mountains, in which we persevered, until the snow became so deep
as to render it impossible to proceed; when I again turned my face
to the plain, and for the first time in the journey found myself dis-
couraged; and it was the first time I heard a man express himself in
a seditious manner. One had exclaimed, "that it was more than
human nature could bear to march three days without sustenance,
through snows three feet deep, and carry burdens only fit for
horses."
. As I knew, very well the fidelity and attachment of the majority of
the men, and even of this poor fellow, only he could not endure
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 243
fasting; and that it was in my power to chastise him when I
thought proper, I passed it over for the moment, determined to
notice it at a more auspicious time.
We dragged our weary and emaciated limbs along, until about ten
o'clock. The doctor and myself, who were in advance, discovered
some buffaloes on the plain, when we left our loads and orders on
the snow to proceed to the nearest woods to encamp. We went in
pursuit of the buffaloes which were on the move.
The doctor, who was then less reduced than myself, ran and got
behind a hill and shot one down, which stopped the remainder.
We crawled up to the dead one, and shot from him as many as
twelve or fourteen times among the herd; when they removed out of
sight. We then proceeded to butcher the one we had shot, and
after procuring each of us a load of the meat, marched for the camp,
the smoke of which was in view. We arrived there to the great joy
of our brave lads, who immediately feasted sumptuously. After our
repast, I sent for the man who had presumed to speak discontentedly
in the course of the day, and addressed him to the following
effect:
"Brown, you this day presumed to make use of language which
was seditious and mutinous; I then passed it over, pitying your situ-
ation and attributing your conduct to your distress, rather than your
inclination to sow discontent amongst the party. Had I reserved
provisions for ourselves, whilst you were starving; had we been
marching along light and at our ease, whilst you were weighed down
with your burden, then you would have had some .pretext for your
observations; but when we were equally hungry, weary, emaciated
and charged with burdens which I believe my natural strength is
jess able to bear than any man's in the party; when we are alway
foremost in breaking the road, reconnoitring and enduring the
fatigues of the chase, it was, the height of ingratitude in you to let
an, expression escape which was indicative of discontent. Your
244 TRAVELS THROUGH
ready compliance and firm perseverance I had reason to expect, as
the leader of men who are my companions in misery and danger.
But your duty as a soldier called on your obedience to your officer,
and a prohibition of such language, which for this time I will par-
don; but assure you, should it ever be repeated, by instant death I
will revenge your ingratitude and punish your disobedience. I take
this opportunity likewise to express to you, soldiers, generally, my
thanks for your obedience, perseverance, and ready contempt of
every danger, which you have in common evinced: and assure you
nothing shall be wanting on my part, to procure you the rewards of
our government and the gratitude of your countrymen."
They all appeared very much affected, and retired with assurances
of perseverance in their duty. Distance advanced nine miles.
Sunday, 25th January.—I determined never again to march with so
little provision on hand; for had the storm continued one day longer,
the animals would have continued in the mountains, and we should
have become so weak as not to be able to hunt, and of course have
perished.
The doctor went out with the men, and secured three of the buf-
faloes, and commenced bringing in the meat, at which we continued
all day.
Monday, 26th January.—Got in all the meat and dried it on a
scaffold; intending to take as much as possible along and leave one
of my frozen lads with the remainder, as a deposit for the parties
who might return for them with the baggage, &c. on their way to
Baroney's camp.
Tuesday, 27th January.—We proceeded on our march, determining
to cross the mountains, leaving Menaugh encamped with our de-
posit. After a bad day's march through snows, some places three feet
deep, we struck on a brook that led west, which I followed down,
and shortly came to a small stream, running in the same direction.
This we hailed with fervency, as the waters of the Red River. Saw
some sign of elk. Distance advanced fourteen miles.
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 245
Wednesday, 28th January.—Followed down the ravine, and disco-
vered after some time that there had been a road cut out, and on
many trees were various hieroglyphics painted. After marching
some miles we discovered, tlwough the lengthy vista at a distance,
another chain of mountains, and nearer to us at the foot of the
White mountains, which we were then descending, sandy hills.
We marched on to the outlet of the mountain and left the sandy
desert to our right; kept down between it and the mountain. When
we encamped I ascended one of the largest hills of sand, and with
my glass could discover a large river, flowing nearly north by west
and south by east through the plain which came out of the third
chain of mountains about north 75Q west. The prairie between the
two chains of mountains bore nearly north and south: I returned to
camp with the news of my discovery. The sand hills extended up
and down at the foot of the White mountains about fifteen miles, and
appeared to be about five miles in width. Their appearance was
exactly that of the sea in a storm, except as to colour, not the least
sign of vegetation existing on them. Distance advanced fifteen
miles.
Thursday, 29th January.—Finding the distance too great to at-
tempt crossing immediately to the river in a direct line, we marched
obliquely to a copse of woods which made down a considerable
distance from the mountain. Distance advanced seventeen miles.
Saw sign of horses.
Friday, 30th January.—We marched hard and in the evening ar-
rived on the banks of the Rio del Norte, then supposed to be the
Red river. Distance advanced twenty-four miles.
Saturday, 3IstJanuary—As there was no timberhere, we determined
on descending until we found some, in order to make transports to
descend the river with; where we might establish a position that
four or five might defend against the insolence, cupidity or barbarity
of the savages; whilst the others returned to assist on the poor
fellows who were left behind at different points. We descended
246 TRAVELS THROUGH
eighteen miles, when we met a large west branch, emptying into the
main stream; up which, about five miles, we took our station.
Killed one deer. Distance advanced eighteen miles.
Sunday, 1st February.— Laid out the plan for our works, and went
out hunting.
Monday, 2d February.—The doctor and myself went out to hunt,
and with great difficulty by night killed one deer, at the distance of
seven or eight miles from camp, which we carried in.
Tuesday, 3d February.—Spent this day in reading, &c.
Wednesday, 4th February. — Went out hunting, but could not kill
any thing. One of my men killed a deer.
Thursday, 5th February.—The doctor and myself went out to hunt,
and after chasing some deer for several hours without success, we
ascended a high hill, which lay south of our camp, from whence we
had a view of all the prairie and rivers to the north of us: it was one
of the most sublime and beautiful inland prospects ever presented
to the eyes of man. The prairie lying nearly north and south, was
probably sixty miles by fortyrfive.
The main river bursting out of the western mountains and meet-
ing from the north-east a large branch which divides the chain, pro-
ceeds down the prairie, making many large and beautiful islands,
one of which I judge contains one hundred thousand acres of land,
all meadow ground, covered with innumerable herds of deer. About
six miles from the mountains which cross the prairie, at the south
end, a branch of twelve steps wide, pays its tribute to the main
stream from the western course. Due W. 12. N. 75. W. 6. Four miles
below is a stream of the same size, which enters on the east; its
general course is N. 65 E. up which was a large road; down from
the entrance of this, was about three miles to the junction of the
western Fork, which waters the foot of the. hill on the north, whilst
the main river wound along in meanders on the east. In short, this
view combined the sublime and beautiful. '.'>
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 247
The great and lofty mountains covered with eternal snow, seemed
to surround the luxuriant vale crowned with perennial flowers,
like a terrestrial paradise, shut out from the view of man.
The country we had traversed from the Arkansaw to the Rio del
Norte was covered with mountains and small prairies, but the game
becomes gradually much more scarce, owing to the vicinity of the
Spanish Indians, and the Spaniards themselves. In this western
traverse of Louisiana, the following general observations may be
made: from the Missouri to the head of the Osage river, a distance
in a straight line probably of three hundred miles, the country will
admit of a numerous, extensive, and compact population; from
thence on the rivers Kanses, La Plate, Arkansaw, and their vari-
ous branches, it appears to me to be only possible to introduce a
limited population. The inhabitants would find it most to their
advantage to pay attention to the rearing of cattle, horses,
sheep and goats: all of which they can raise in abundance, the
earth producing spontaneously sufficient for their support, both
in winter and summer, by which means their herds might become
immensely numerous; but the wood now in the country would
not be sufficient for a moderate population more than fifteen
years, and then it would be out of the question to think of using
any of it in manufactories, consequently their houses would be built
entirely of mud bricks, (like those in New Spain) or of the brick
manufactured wi^h fire; but possibly time may make the dis-
covery of coal mines, which would render the country habitable.
The source of the La Plate, as before observed, is situated in
the same chain of mountains as the Arkansaw, and comes from
that grand reservoir of snows and fountains, which gives birth
on its north eastern side to the Red river, the Yellow Stone river
of Lewis, and of the Missouri, (its great south-western branch) and
the Plate; on its south-western side, it produces the Rio Colorado
of Calefornia, on its eastern the Arkansaw, and on its southern the
Rio del Norte of North Mexico. I have no hesitation in asserting,
248 TRAVELS THROUGH
I can take a position in the mountains from whence I can visit
either of those rivers in one day.*
Numerous have been the hypotheses formed by various naturalists,
to account for the vast tract of untimbered country which lies be-
tween the waters of the Missouri, Mississippi and the Western oceau,
from the mouth of the Mississippi to the 48° north latitude. Although
not flattering myself to be able to elucidate what numbers of
highly scientific characters have acknowledged to be beyond their
depth of research, still I would not think I had done my country
justice, did I not give publicity to what few lights my examination
of those internal deserts has enabled me to acquire. In that vast
country of which we speak, we find the soil generally dry, sandy, with
gravel; and discover that the moment we approach a stream, the
jand becomes more humid with small timber: I therefore conclude
that this country never was wooded, as from the earliest age the
aridity of the soil, having so few water-courses running through it,
and they being principally dry in summer, has never afforded mois-
ture sufficient to support the growth of timber. In all timbered
land the annual discharge of the leaves, with the continual decay
of old trees and branches, creates a manure and moisture, which are
preserved from the heat, the sun not being permitted to direct his
rays perpendicularly, but only to shed them obliquely through the
foliage. But here a barren soil, parched and dried up for eight
months in the year, presents neither moisture nor nutriment sufficient
for the growth of wood. These vast plains of the western hemis-
phere, may become in titife equally celebrated with the sandy de-
serts of Africa, for I saw in my route in various places, tracts of
many leagues where the wind had thrown up the sand, in all the
* This must evidently be a mistake so far as it relates to the Red-river, which rises
far to the southward. E. . *
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 249
fanciful forms of the ocean's rolling waves, and on which not a speck
of vegetation existed. But from these immense prairies may arise
one great advantage to the United States, viz. the restriction of our
population to some certain limits, and thereby a continuation of
the union. Our citizens being so prone to rambling, and extending
themselves on the frontiers, will, through necessity, be constrained to
limit their extent on the west to the borders of the Missouri and
Mississippi, while they leave the prairies, incapable of cultivation,
to the wandering and uncivilized Aborigines of the country.
Friday, 6th February.—The doctor having some pecuniary de-
mands on the province of New Mexico, conceived this to be the most
eligible point for him to set out from, in order to return previously to
all my party having joined me from the Arkansaw, and before I could
be prepared to descend to Natchitoches. He therefore this day
made his preparations for proceeding on the morrow. I went out
hunting, and killed a deer at three miles distance; which with great
difficulty I brought in whole.
We continued to go on wilh our stockade or breast-work, which
was situated on the north bank of the western branch, about fire
miles from its junction with the main river.*
* The stockade was situated in a small prairie, on the west fork of the Rio del Norte.
The south flank joining the edge of the river, (which at that place was not fordable)
the east and west curtains were flanked by bastions in the N. E. and N.W. angles, which
likewise flanked the curtain of the north side of the work. The stockade from the centre
of the angles of the bastions was thirty-six feet square. There were heavy cotton-wood
logs about two feet diameter, laid up all round about six feet, after which lighter
ones until we made it twelve feet in height; these logs were joined together by a lap
of about two feet at each end. We then dug a small ditch on the inside all round,
making it perpendicular on the internal side, and sloping next the work: In this ditch
we planted small stakes of about six inches diameter, sharpened at the upper end to a
nice point, slanted them over the top of the work, giving them about two and a half
feet projection. We then secured them below and above in that position, which formed
a small pointed frieze, which must have been removed before the works could
...... K K
950 TRAVELS THROUGH
Sattwday, 7th February.—The Doctor marched alone for Santa Fe.*
In the evening 1 despatched Corporal Jackson with four men to
scaled. Lastly, we had dug a ditch round the whole four feet wide, and let the water
into it; the earth taken out being thrown against the work, formed an excellent
rampart against small arms, three or four feet high. Our mode of getting in was to
crawl over the ditch on a plank, and into a small hole sunk below the level of the
work near the river for that purpose. Our port-holes we pierced about eight feet from
the ground, and a platform prepared to shoot from.
Thus fortified, I should not have had the least hesitation in putting the hundred Spanish
horse at defiance until the first and second night, and then to have made our escape under
pover of the darkness; or made a sally and dispersed them, when resting under a full
confidence of our being panic struck by their numbers and force.
• * The demands which Dr. Robinson had on persons in New Mexico, although originally
legitimate, were in some degree spurious in his hands: the circumstances were as follow:
In the year 18O4, William Morrison, Esq. an enterprising merchant of Kaskaskias, sent
a man by the name of Babtiste Lalande, a Creole of the country of the Missouri and of
La Plate, directing him if possible to push into Santa Fe". He sent in Indians, and the
Spaniards came out with horses and carried him and his goods into the province.
Finding that he sold the goods high, had land offered him, and that the women were
kind, he concluded to expatriate himself, and convert the property of Morrison to his
own benefit. When I was about to sail, Morrison conceiving that it was possible I might
meet some Spanish factors on the Red river, intrusted me with the claim, in order if
they were acquainted with Lalande, I might negotiate the affair with some of them.
When on the frontiers, the idea suggested itself to us of making this claim a pretext for
Robinson to visit Santa Fe. We therefore gave it the proper appearance, and hemarched
for that place. Our views were to gain a knowledge of the country, the prospect of
trade, force, &c. whilst at the same time, our treaties with Spain guaranteed to him as
a citizen of the United States, the right of seeking the recovery of all just debts, dues,
or demands, before the legal and authorized tribunals of the country, as a franchised
inhabitant of the same, as specified in the 22d article of the treaty.
As it was uncertain whether this gentleman would ever join me again, I at that time
committed the following testimonial of respect for his good qualities to paper, which I
do not at this time feel any disposition to efface. ;.
He has had the benefit of a liberal education, without having spent hi* time as too
many of our gentlemen do in colleges, in skimouHg ove^ the surfaces of science, with-
out ever endeavouring to make themselves masters of the solid, foundations; but he had
studied and reasoned. With these qualifications he possessed ;i liberality of mind tun
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 351
recross the mountains, in order to bring in the baggage left with the
frozen men, and to see if they were yet able to proceed. This de-
tachment left me Avith four men only; two of whom had their feet
frozen: they were employed in finishing the stockade and myself in
supporting them by the chase.
Sunday, 8th February.—Refreshing my memory as to the French
grammar, and observing the work.
Monday, 9th February.—Hunting, &c.
Tuesday, 10th February.—Read, and laboured at our works.
Wednesday, 11th February.—Hunting. Killed three deer.
Thursday, 12th February.—Studying.
Friday, 13th February.—Hunting. Killed two deer.
Saturday, 14th,, February.—Crossed the river, and examined the
numerous springs which issued from the foot of the hill opposite to
our camp, which were so strongly impregnated with mineral quali-
ties as not only to keep clear of ice, previously to their joinmg the
main branch, but to keep open the west Fork until its junction witl'
the main river, and for a few miles afterwards; whilst all the other
branches in the neighbourhood were bound in the adamantine chaim
of winter.
Sunday, 15th February.—Reading, and works going on, &c.
Monday, 16th February.—I took one man and went out hunting;
about six miles from the post shot and wounded a deer. Immedi-
ately afterwards discovered two hoi'semen rising the summit of a
hill, about half a mile to our right. As my orders were to avoid
great ever to reject an hypothesis, because it was not agreeable to the dogmas of the
schools j or adopt it, because it had all the eclat of novelty. His soul could conceive
great actions, and his hand was ready to achieve them: in short, it may truly be said,
that nothing was above his genius, nor any thing so minute, that he conceived it entirely
unworthy of consideration. As a gentleman and companion in dangers, difficulties and
hardships, I in particular, and the expedition in general, owe much to his exertion";
K K 2
252 TRAVELS THROUGH
giving alarm or offence to the Spanish government of New Mexico
I endeavoured to shun them at first, but when we attempted to re-
treat, they pursued us at full charge flourishing their lances, and
when we advanced, they would retire as fast as their horses could
carry them. Seeing this we got into a small ravine, in hopes to
decoy them near enough to oblige them to come to a parley, which
happened agreeably to our desires. As they came on hunting us
with great caution, we suffered them to get within forty yards, where
we had allured them, but were about running off again, when 1 or-
dered the soldier to lay down his arms and walk towards them, at
the same time standing ready with my rifle to kill either who should
lift an arm in a hostile manner. I then hallooed to them, that we
were Americans and friends, which were almost the only two words
I knew in the Spanish language: after which, with great signs of fear,
they came up, and proved to be a Spanish dragoon and a civilized
Indian; armed after their manner, of which we see a description in
the Essai Militaire. We were jealous of our arms on both sides,
and acted with great precaution. They informed me, that was the
fourth day since they had left Santa Fe; that Robinson had arrived
there, and had been received with great kindness by the governor.
As I knew them to be spies, I thought it proper merely to inform them,
thai I was about to descend the river to Natchitoches. We sat here
on the ground a long time; and finding they were determined not to
leave me, we arose and bade them adieu; but they demanded where
our camp was, and finding they were not about to depart, I thought
it most proper to take them with me, thinking we were on Red river,
and of course in the territory claimed by the United States.
We took the road to my fort, and as they were on horseback,
they travelled rather faster than myself. They were halted by the
centinel, and immediately retreated much surprised. When I came
up I took them in and then explained to them as well as I was able,
my intentions of descending the river to Natchitoches; but at the
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 25S
same time told them that if Governor Allencaster would send out an
officer with an interpreter, who spoke French or English, I would do
myself the pleasure to give his Excellency every reasonable satisfaction
as to my intentions in coming on his frontiers. They informed me that
on the second day they would be in Santa Fe, but were careful never
to suggest an idea of my being on the Rio del Norte. As they con-
cluded I did not think as I spoke, they were very anxious to ascertain
our number, &c. Seeing only five men here, they could not believe
we came without horses; to this I did not think proper to afford
them any satisfaction, giving them to understand we were in many
parties.
Tuesday, 17th February.—In the morning our two Spanish visitors
departed, after I had made them some trifling presents, with which
they seemed highly delighted. After their departure we commenced
labouring at our little work. As I thought it probable the governor
might dispute my right to descend the Red river, and send out In-
dians or some light party to attack us, I determined to be as much
prepared to receive them as possible. This evening the corporal
and three of the men arrived, who had been sent back to the camp
of their frozen companions. They informed me that two more would
arrive the next day, one of whom was Menaugh, who had been left
a lone on the 2?th January1; but the other two, Dogherty and Sparks,
were unable to come. They said that they had hailed them with
tears of joy, and were in despair when they again left them with
the chance of never seeing them more. They sent on to me some
of the bones taken out of their feet, and conjured me by all that
was sacred, not to leave them to perish far from the civilized world.
Oh! little did they know my heart, if they could suspect me of
conduct so ungenerous! No, before they should be left, I would for
months have carried the end of a litter, in order to secure them the
happiness of once more seeing their native homes, and being received
in the bosom of a grateful country. ... . • •;
254 TRAVELS THROUGH
Thus, these poor fellows are to be invalids for life, made infirm at
the commencement of manhood, and in the prime of their course;
doomed to pass the remainder of their days in misery and want.
For what is the pension? not sufficient to buy a man his victuals!
What man would even lose the smallest of his joints for such a trifling
pittance!
Wednesday, 18th February.—The other two men arrived: in the
evening I ordered the sergeant and one man to prepare to march on
the morrow for the Arkansaw, where we had left our interpreter,
horses, &c. to conduct them to us, and on his return to bring the two
invalids who were still on the mountains.
Thursday, IQth February.—Sergeant Meek marched with one man,
whose name was Theodore Miller, and I took three others to accom-
pany him some distance, in order to point out to him a pass in the
mountain, which I conceived more eligible for horses than the one
we had penetrated.
I must here remark the effect of habit, discipline, and example,
in two soldiers soliciting a command of more than one hundred and
eighty miles, over two great ridges of mountains covered with snow,
inhabited by bands of unknown savages in the interest of a nation
with whom we were not on the best understanding: and to perform
this journey, each had about ten pounds of venison! Only let me
ask, what would our soldiers generally think on being ordered on
such a tour, thus equipped? Yet those men volunteered with others,
and were chosen, for which they thought themselves highly ho-
noured.
We accompanied them about six miles, pointed out the pass
alluded to in a particular manner; but the corporal reported that
the new one which I had obliged him to take was impassable, hav-
ing been three days in snows nearly middle deep.
We then separated, and having killed a deer, sent one of the men
back to the fort with it. With the other two I kept on my esplor-
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 255
ing trip down the river on the eastern side, at some leagues from its
banks, intending to return. At nine o'clock at night, encamped
on a small creek, which emptied into the river by nearly a due east
course. *
Friday, 20th February.—We marched down the river for a few
hours, but seeing no fresh sign of persons, or any other object to at-
tract our attention, took up our route for the fort; discovered the
sign of horses and men on the shore. We arrived after a night's
absence, and found all well.
Saturday, 21st February.—As I was suspicious that possibly
some party of Indians might be harbouring round, I gave parti-
cular orders to my men, if they discovered any people to endeavour
to retreat unobserved; but if not, never to run, and not to suffer
themselves to be disarmed or taken prisoners, but conduct whatever
party discovered them, if they could not escape, to the fort.
Sunday, 22d February.—As I began to think it was time we re-
ceived a visit from the Spaniards, or their emissaries, I established
a look-out guard on the top of a hill all day, and at night a sentinel
in a bastion on the land side. Studying, reading, &c. Working at
our ditch to bring the river round the work. :' .•• -,-
Monday, 23d February.—Reading, writing, &c.; the men at the
usual work.
Tuesday, 24th February.—Took one man with me and went out on
the Spanish road hunting. Killed one deer and wounded several
others, and as we were a great distance from the fort, we encamped
near the road all night. Saw several signs of horses.
Wednesday, 25th February.—Killed two more deer, when we
marched for our post. Took all three of the deer with us, and arrived
about nine o'clock at night as much fatigued as ever I was in my
life. Our arrival dissipated the anxiety of the men, who began to
be apprehensive we were taken or killed by some of the savages.
256 TRAVELS THROUGH
Thursday, 26th February.—In the morning was apprised by the
report of a gun from my look-out guard, of the approach of
strangers; immediately after two Frenchmen arrived.
My sentinel halted them, and I ordered them to be admitted after
some questions. They informed me that his excellency Governor
Allencaster, hearing it was the intention of the Utah Indians to
attack me, had detached an officer with fifty dragoons to come but
and protect me, and that they would be with me in two days.
To this I made no reply, but shortly after the party hove in sight,
as I afterwards learnt; fifty dragoons and fifty mounted militia of
the province, armed in the same manner with lances, escopates, and
pistols. My sentinels halted them at the distance of about fifty
yards. I had the works manned: I thought it most proper to send
out the two Frenchmen to inform the commanding officer, that it
was my request he should leave his party in a small copse of wood
where he halted, and that I would meet him myself in the prairie,
in which our work was situated; this I did, with my sword on me
only. I was thus introduced to Don Ignatio Saltelo and Don Bar-
tholomew Fernandez, two lieutenants; the former the commander of
the party: I gave them an invitation to enter the works, but request,
ed the troops might remain where they were. This was complied
Avith: but when they came round and discovered that to enter they
were obliged to crawl on their bellies over a small draw bridge,
they appeared astonished; they however entered without further
hesitation.
We first breakfasted on some deer, meal, goose, and some bis-
cuil, which the civilized Indian who came out as a spy, had brought
me. After breakfast the commanding officer addressed me as fol-
lows:
"Sir, the Governor of New Mexico, being informed that you
had missed your route, ordered me to offer you in his name, mules,
horses, money, or whatever you may stand in need of, to conduct
THE INTERIOR OF LOUISIANA. 257
you to the head of Red river; as from Santa Fe, to where it is
sometimes navigable, is eight days journey, and we have guides and
the routes of the traders to conduct us."
"What," interrupted I, " is not this the Red river?" "No, sir, it
is the Rio del Norte." I immediately ordered my flag to be taken
down and rolled up, feeling how sensibly I had committed myself in
entering their territory, and was conscious that they must have posi-
tive orders to take me in. He now added, "that he had provided one
hundred mules and horses to take in my party and baggage, and
stated how anxious his excellency was to see me at Santa Fe." I
stated to him the absence of my sergeant, the situation of the rest of
the party ; and that my orders would not justify my entering into the
Spanish territories. He urged still further, until I began to feel
myself a little heated in the argument, arid told him in a peremptory
style, I would not go until the arrival of my sergeant, with the re-
mainder of my party. He replied, that there was not the least re-
straint to be used, only that it was necessary his excellency should
receive an explanation of my business on his frontier; that I might
go now, or on the arrival of my party; but that if none went at pre-
sent he should be obliged to send in for provisions. He added, that
if I would now march, he would leave an Indian interpreter and an
escort of dragoons to conduct the sergeant into Santa Fe. His mild-
ness induced me to tell him, that I would march, but must leave
two men in order to meet the sergeant and party to instruct him as
to coming in, as he would never do so without a fight, unless
ordered.
I was induced to, consent to the measure, by conviction that the
officer had a positive command to convey me in; and as I had no
orders to engage in hostilities, and indeed had committed myself,
although innocently, by violating their territory, I conceived it
would appear better to shew a will to come to an explanation, ra-
ther than be any way constrained. Y"et my situation was so eligible,
LL
S58
TRAVELS THROUGH
and I could so easily have put them to defiance, that it was with
great reluctance I suffered all our labour to be lost, without once
trying the efficacy of it.
My compliance seemed to spread general joy through the Spanish
party as soon as it was communicated. But it appeared to be different
with my men, who wished to have had a little dust, (as they expressed
themselves) and were likewise fearful of Spanish treachery.
My determination being once taken, I gave permission for the
Lieutenants' men to come to the outside of the works and some of
mine to go out and see them. Immediately the hospitality and
goodness of the Creoles and Mestis began to be manifested by their
producing their provision and giving it to my men; at the same time
covering them with their blankets.
After writing orders to my sergeant, and leaving them with my
corporal and one private who was to remain, we sallied forth, mount-
ed our horses, and went up the river about twelve miles to a place
where the Spanish officers had made a camp deposit, from whence
we sent down mules for our baggage.
Abstract of the Number of the Indian Nations on the preceding Route.
.
"8
•3 .
ri
1
I
§>
CM at
^5
o-o
to B
•<
a
i
1
CO
cu «
R
E
Names of Nations.
>
ii
3.JT
*S
i
. o
0
Jt
^§
o
o
0
6
O
2
dtf
0
fe
fc
A
!C
*
Osaee .....
1,252
1,793
74
3
4,019
516
1,200
Kanses ....
465
500
600
1
1,565
204
450
Pawnees ....
1,993
2,170
2,060
3
6,223
174
700
letans ....
2,700
3,000
2,500
8,200
1,020
270
Total. . . .
6,410
7,463
6,134
7
20,007
1,914
2,620
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN.
JOURNAL
OF A TOUR THROUGH THE INTERIOR PROVINCES OF NEW SPAIN,
IN THE YEAR 1807, IN CONTINUATION OF THE PRECEDING NAR-
RATIVE.
r RIDAY, 27th February.—In the morning I discovered that
the lieutenant was writing letters, addressed to the governor and
others, on which I demanded if he was not going on with me to
Santa F6? He appeared confused, and said no; that his orders were
so positive as to the safe conduct and protection of my men, that
he durst not go and leave any behind; that his companion would ac-
company me to Santa Fe, with fifty men, whilst he, with the others,
would wait for the sergeant and the remainder of my party. I
replied that he had deceived me, and had not acted with candour:
but it was now too late for me to remedy the evil.
We marched about eleven o'clock, ascending the Rio del Norte
five miles more, south, 60° west, when we went round through
a chain of hills, and bore off to the south. We proceeded nine
miles further, when we crossed the main branch of that stream,
which was now bearing nearly west, towards the main chain of the
third chain of mountains. We encamped on the opposite shore,
after having proceeded fifteen miles. The weather was intensely
cold, and we were obliged to stop frequently to make fires. Snow
deep.
Saturday, '28th February—We marched late. One of the French-
men informed me, that the expedition which had been at the Paw-
nees had descended the Red river two hundred and thirty-three
leagues, and had then crossed to the Pawnees, expressly in search
LI.I
260 TRAVELS THROUGH
of my party, (this was afterwards confirmed by the gentleman wha
commanded the troops); he then expressed great regret at my mis-
fortunes, as he termed them, in being taken, and offered his services
in secreting papers, &c. I easily saw his design, but for my amuse-
ment I thought I would try him, and accordingly gave him a leaf
or two of my journal (copied), which mentioned the time of our
sailing from Belle Fontaine, and our force. This I charged him to
guard very carefully, and return to me after the investigation of my
papers at Santa Fe. This day we saw a herd of wild horses; the
Spaniards pursued them, and caught two colts, one of which the
Indians killed and ate, the other was liberated. We continued our
journey over some hills, where the snow was very deep, and en-
camped at last on the top of a pretty high hill, among some pines.
Distance advanced thirty-six miles. We left the river, which in
general ran about six, eight, and ten miles to the left, or eastward,
of us. Saw great sign of elk.
Sunday, 1st March.—We marched early, and although we rode
very hard, only got to the village of Agua Caliente or Warm Springs*
sometime in the afternoon, which was about forty-five miles. The
difference of the climate was here astonishing; after we left the hills
and deep snows, we found ourselves on plains where there was no
snow, and where vegetation was sprouting. The village of the Warm
Springs, or Agua Caliente (in their language), is situated on the
eastern branch of a creek of that name; and at a distance, presents
to the eye a square enclosure of mud walls, the houses forming the
wall. They are flat oh the top, or with extremely little ascent to
one side, where there are spouts to carry off the water of the melt-
ing snow and rain when it falls, which, we were informed, had not
been the case but once in two years, previously to our entering the
country. Inside of the enclosure were the different streets, formed
of houses of the same fashion, all of one story; the doors were
narrow, the windows small, and in one or two houses we observed talc
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 261
lights. This village had a mill near it, on the little creek, which
made very good flour. The population consisted of civilized Indi-
ans, but much mixed blood, and may comprise about five hundred
souls. Here we had a dance, which in general terms is called the
fandango; but there was one which was copied from the Mexicans,
and is now danced in the first societies of New Spain, and had even
been introduced at the court of Madrid.
The greatest natural curiosity are the warm springs, which are
two in number, about ten yards apart, and each affording sufficient
water for a mill seat. They appeared to be impregnated with cop-
per, and were more than 33° above blood heat. From this village
the letans drove off two thousand horses at one time, when at war
with the Spaniards. •
Monday, 2d March,—We marched late, and passed several little
mud-walled villages and settlements, all of which had round mud
towers, of the ancient shape and construction, to defend the inha-
bitants from the intrusions of the savages. I was this day shewn
the ruins of several old villages, which had been taken and de-
stroyed by the letans.
We were frequently stopped on our march by the women, who
invited us into their houses to eat, and in every place where we
halted a moment, there was a contest who should be our hosts. My
poor lads who had been frozen were conducted home by old men,
who would cause their daughters to dress their feet, provide their
victuals and drink, and at night give them the best bed in the house.
The whole of their conduct brought to my recollection the hospi-
tality of the ancient patriarchs, and caused me to sigh with regret
at the corruption of that noble principle by the polish of modern
ages.
We descended the creek of Agua Caliente about twelve miles,
to where it joined the river of Conejos from the west. This river was.
about thirty yards wide, an4 was settled for twelve miles above its,
263 TRAVELS THROUGH
junction with the Agua Caliente, as the latter was for its whole
course from the village of that name. From their junction, the
distance was about five miles to the Rio del Norte, on the eastern
branch of which was situated the village of St. John's, which was
the residence of the president priest of the province, who had dwelt
there forty years.
The tops of the houses, as well as the streets, were crowded when
we entered; and at the door of the public quarters we were met by
the priest. My companion, who commanded the escort, received
him in a street and embraced him, and all the poor creatures who
stood round strove to kiss the ring or hand of the holy father; for
myself, I saluted him in the usual style. My men were conducted
into the quarters, and I went to the house of the priest, where we
were treated by him with politeness: he offered us coffee, chocolate,
and whatever we thought proper, and desired me to make myself at
home.
As I was going sometime after to the quarters of my men, I
was addressed at the door by a man in broken English: " My friend,
I am very sorry to see you here; we are all prisoners in this country,
and can never return; I have been a prisoner for nearly three years
and cannot get away." I replied, " that as for his being a prisoner,
it must be for some crime; that with respect to myself I felt no
apprehension, and requested him to speak French, as I hardly under-
stood his English." He then began to demand of me so many
different questions on the mode of my getting into the country, my
intentions &c. that by the time I arrived in the room of my men
I was perfectly satisfied of his being ordered by some person to
endeavour to obtain a confession or acknowledgment of sinister
designs, in my appearing on the frontiers, and some confidential
communications, which might implicate me. As he had been
rather insolent in his enquiries, I ordered my men to shut and
fasten the door. I then told him that I believed him to be an
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 263
emissary sent on purpose by the governor, or some other person, to
endeavour to betray me; that all men of that description were
scoundrels, and should never escape punishment whilst I possessed
the power to chastise them, cautioning him at the same time, if
he cried or made the least resistance, I should be obliged to make
use of the sabre, which I had in my hand: on which he was so much
alarmed that he begged of me for God's sake not to hurt him; and
said that he had been ordered by the governor to meet me, and en-
deavour to trace out what and who I was, and what were my designs,
after gaining my confidence by exclaiming against the Spaniards, and.
complaining of the tyranny which they had exercised towards him.
After this confession, I told him that I looked upon him as too con-
temptible for further notice, but that he might tell the governor, the
next time he employed emissaries, to choose those of more abilities
and sense, and that I questioned if his excellency would find the
sifting of us an easy task. This man's name was Baptiste La-
lande; he had come from the Illinois to the Pawnees to trade with
goods furnished him by William Morrison, a gentleman of the
Illinois, and from thence with his merchandize to North Mexico,
where he had established himself; he was the man on whom Robin-
son had a claim. He returned to the priest's house with me, and
instead of making any complaint, in reply to their inquiries of who
I was, &c. informed them that when he left Louisiana, I was governor
of the Illinois. This, I presume, he took from my having com-
manded for some time at Kaskaskias, the first military post the
United States established in that country after the peace.. The
report served but to add to the respect with which my companions and
host treated me. This being the first place at which I had partaken
of a good meal, wine, &c. the house too being warm, and having
made perhaps rather an immoderate use of the refreshments, I was
attacked by something like the cholera morbus, which alarmed me
considerably, ami made me determine to be more guarded in future,.
264 TRAVELS THROUGH
I found that this father was a great naturalist, or rather a florist. He
had large collections of flowers, and plants, and several works on his fa-
vourite studies, the margin and bottoms of which were filled by his
own notes in the Castilian language. As I had not a natural turn for
botany sufficient to induce me to puzzle my head'with the Latin, and
did not understand the Castilian, I enjoyed but little of his pedantic
lectures, which he continued to give me for nearly two hours; but
by this small degree of patience, I entirely acquired the esteem of
the worthy father, who called me his son, and lamented extremely
that my fate had not made me one of the Holy Catholic Church.*
St. John was enclosed with a mud wall, and probably contained
one thousand souls; its population consisted principally of civilized
Indians, and indeed all the villages of North Mexico are the same,
the Whites not forming the one,twentieth part.
Tuesday, 3d March.—We marched after breakfast, Baptiste La-
lande accompanying us, and in about six miles came to a village
containing, I suppose, more than two thousand souls. Here we
halted at the house of the priest, who understanding that I would
not kiss his hand did not present it to me. The conduct and beha-
viour of a young priest who came in, was such as in our country
* The father being informed that I had some astronomical instruments, expressed a
desire to see them: all that I had with me was my sextant, and a large glass which
magnified considerably, calculated for the day or night, the remainder being with my
sergeant and party. On examining the sextant, and shewing him the effect of it, in
the reflection of the sun, he appeared more surprised, as well as hundreds who surrounded
us, at the circumstance than any nation of savages I was ever among. It struck me as
extraordinary, how a man who appeared perfect master of the ancient languages, a
botanist, mineralogist and chemist, should be so ignorant of the powers of reflection,
and the first principles of mathematics: but my friend explained the enigma, by inform-
ing me of the care the Spanish government took to prevent any branch of science being
made a pursuit, which would have a tendency to extend the views of the subjects of the
provinces to the geography of their country, or any other subject which might bring to
view a'comparison of their local advantages and situations witli those of other countries.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN.
would have been amply sufficient for ever to have banished hhu
from the clerical association, strutting about with a dirk in his boot, a?
cane in his hand, whispering to one girl, chucking another under the
chin, aud going out with a third, £c. }"et this holy and reverend father
would not give his hand to a protestant, for fear of contamination!
From this to another small village of five hundred inhabitants
the distance is seven miles: at each of these there is a small stream
sufficient for the purpose of watering their fields: at the father's
house we took coffee; and here was the first bedstead seen in the
country. From this village %ve travelled seventeen miles to another
of civilized Indians, containing four hundred inhabitants: Here we
changed horses and prepared for entering the capital, which we came
in sight of in the evening. Santa Fe is situated along the banks of a
small creek, which comes down from the mountains, and runs west.
to the Rio del Norte. The length of the town on the creek may be
estimated at one mile, and it is but three streets in width. Its ap-
pearance from a distance, struck my mind with the same.effect as a
fleet of flat bottomed boats, such as arc seen in the spring and
fall seasons descending the Ohio river. There are two churches, the
magnificence of whose steeples forms a striking contrast to the miser-
able appearance of the other buildings. On the north side of the
town is the square of soldiers' houses, one hundred and twenty, or
one hundred and forty on each flank. The public square is in
the centre of the town, on the north side of which is situated the
palace, as they term it, or government house, with the quarters for
guards, £c. the other is occupied by the clergy, and public officers*
In general, the houses have a shed before their front, some of which
have a flooring of brick; this occasions the streets to be very narrow,
being, in general, about twenty-five feet. The supposed population
is four thousand five hundred souls.*
* Iluuibokh states the population at 3,600. Pol. Ess. on K Spain, vol. ii. p.
Eng. Tran. E.
M M
266 TRAVELS THROUGH
On our entering the town, the crowd was great and followed us to
the government-house: here we dismounted, and were ushered in
through various rooms, the floors all covered with the skins of buffalo,
bear, or some other animal. We Availed in a chamber for some time
until his excellency appeared, when we rose, and the following coaver-
sation took place in French:
- Governor.—Do you speak French?
Pike.—Yes, Sir.
Governor.—You come to reconnoitre our country, do you?
Pike.—I marched to reconnoitre our own.
Governor.—In what character are you?
Pike.—In my proper character, an officer of the United States
army.
Governor.—And this Robinson, is he attached to your party?
Pike.—No.
Governor.—Do you know him?
Pike.—Yes, he is from St. Louis.*
Governor.—How many men have you? A. Fifteen.
Governor.—And this Robinson makes sixteen? A. I have already
told your excellency that he does not belong to my party, and shall
answer no more interrogatories on that subject.
Governor.—When did you leave St. Louis?
Answer.—loth July.
Governor.—I think you marched in June?
Answer.—No, Sir.
* I had understood the doctor had been sent forty-five leagues from Santa Fe under a
strong guard, and the haughty and unfriendly reception of the Governor induced me to
believe war must have been declared, and that if it were known Doctor Robinson accom-
panied me, lie would be treated with great severity. I was correct in saying he was not
attached to my party, for he was only a volunteer, and could not properly be said to be
oae of my command.
THE IKTERIOR OF NEW SPA1X. 267
Governor.—Well, return with Mr. Bartholomew to his house, and
conne here again at seven o'clock and bring your papers. On which
we returned to the house of my friend Bartholomew, who seemed much
hurt at the interview. At the door of the government-house I met
the old Frenchman to whom I had given the scrap of paper, on the
27th February. lie had left us in the morning, and, as 1 supposed,
hurried in to make his report, and I presume had presented this
paper to his excellency. I demanded, with a look of contempt,
if he had made his repprt; to which he replied in a humble tone,
and began to excuse himself, but 1 did not wait to hear him.
At the hour appointed we returned, when the governor demanded
my papers. I told him I understood my trunk was taken possession of
by his guard. He expressed surprise, and immediately ordered it
in; he also sent for Solomon Colly, formerly a sergeant in our army,
and one of the unfortunate company of Nolan. When we were
seated he ordered this man to demand my name, to which I replied;
he then asked in what province I was born? I answered in English,
and then addressed his excellency in French, and told him I did not.
think it necessary to enter into such a catechising; that if he would
be at the pains of reading my commission from the United States,
and my orders from my general, it would be all that I presumed
would be necessary to convince his excellency that I came with no
hostile intentions towards the Spanish government; that on the con-
trary I had express instructions to guard against giving them offence
-or alarm, and that his excellency would be convinced, that myself
and party were to be considered as objects on which the so much cele-
brated generosity of theSpanish nation mightbe exercised, rather than
subjects to occasion opposite sentiments. He then requested to see
my commission and orders, which I read to him in French, on which
he got up and gave me his hand (for the first time) and said, that he
was happy to be acquainted with me as a man of honour and a gen-
si M 2
268 TRAVELS THROUGH
tleman, that I might retire in the evening, and take my trunk with
me; that on the morrow, he would make further arrangements.
Wednesday, 4th March.—I was desired by the Governor to bring-
up my trunk in order that he might make some observations on my
route, &.c.
AVhen he had ordered me to take my trunk with me over night,
I had conceived the examination of papers was over, and as many
of my documents were entrusted to the care of my men, and I found
that the inhabitants were treating them with liquor, I was fearful
they would become intoxicated, and through inadvertency betray
or discover the papers. I therefore obtained several of them and had
put them in the trunk. When an officer arrived for myself and it in
the morning, I had no opportunity of taking them out again before
1 was conducted to the palace. I discovered instantly that I was
.deceived, but it was too late to remedy the evil.
After examining the contents of my trunk, the governor informed
me I must with my troop go to Chihuahua in the province of Biscay,
to appear before the commandant general; he added, "You have
the key of your trunk in your own possession, the trunk will be put
under charge of the officer who commands your escort." The follow-
ing conversation then took place:
Captain Pike—If we go to Chihuahua we must be considered as
prisoners of Avar?
Governor.—By no means.
Pike.—You have already disarmed my men without my know-
ledge; are their arms to be returned, or not?
Governor.—They can receive them any moment.
Pike.—But, Sir, I cannot consent to be led three or four hundred
leagues out of my route, without its being by force of arms.
'Governor.—I know you do not go voluntarily, but I will give you
a certificate from under my hand, of my having obliged you to
inarch.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 269
Pike.—I will address you a letter on the subject.*
Governor.—You- will dine with me to day, and march afterwards
to a village about six miles distant, escorted by Captain Anthony
D'Almansa, with a detachment of dragoons, who will accompany
,you to where the remainder of your escort is now waiting for you,
under the command of the officer who commanded the expedition
to the Pawnees.
Pike—I would not wish to be impertinent in my observations to
your excellency; but pray, Sir; do you not think it was a greater
infringement of our territory to send six hundred miles into the
Pawnees country, than for me, with our small party, to gome on
the frontiers of yours, M'ith an intent to-descend Red river?
Governor.—I do not understand you.
. Pike. No, Sir! any further explanation is unnecessary.
I then returned to the house of my friend, Bartholomew, and
wote' my letter to his excellency, which I had not finished be-
fore we were hurried to dinner. In the morning I had received from
the governor, by the hands of his private secretary, twenty-one
dollars, notifying to me that it was the amount of the king's allow-
ance for my party to Chihuahua, and that it would be charged to
me on account of my subsistence: from this I clearly understood,
that it was calculated the expences of the party to Chihuahua,
were to be defrayed by the United States. I also received by the
same hands, from his excellency, a shirt and neckcloth, with his
compliments, wishing me to accept them as they were made in
Spain by his sister, and never had been worn by any person; for
which I returned him my sincere acknowledgments.
It may not be deemed impertinent, if I explain at this period
the miserable appearance we made, and the situation we were in,
* See Appendix, No. XI.
2TO .. TRAVELS THROUGH
with the reasons for it. After we left our interpreter and oue man
on the Arkansas, we were obliged to carry all our baggage on our
backs; consequently that which was the most useful was preferred
to the few ornamental articles of dress we possessed. The ammu-
nition claimed our first care, tools secondary, leather leggins, boots,
and mockinsons were the next in consideration t consequently I left
behind all my uniform cloathing, trunks, &c. and the men also did
the same, except what they had on, conceiving that which would
secure the feet and legs from the cold, to be preferable to any
other. Thus, when we presented ourselves at Santa Fe, I was dressed
in a pair of blue trowsers, mockinsons, blanket coat, and a red
cap, made of scarlet cloth, lined with fox skins; and my poor fel-
lows in leggins, breech cloths, and leather coats; and not a hat in
th* whole party. This appearance was extremely mortifying to us
all, especially as soldiers; and although some of the officers used
frequently to observe to me, " that M-orth made the man," with
a variety of adages to the same amount, yet the first impression
made on the ignorant is hard to eradicate; and a greater proof can-
not be given of the ignorance of the common people, than their
asking if we lived in houses, or in camps like the Indians; or if we
wore hats in our country. These observations are sufficient to shew
the impression our savage appearance made among them.
The dinner at the governor's was rather splendid, consisting of a
variety of dishes, and wines of the Southern Provinces, and when
his excellency was a little warmed with the influence of the cheering
liquor, he became very sociable, and expressed his opinion freely.
It must be understood that no person at the table could understand
our conversation. He informed me that there existed a serious diffi-
culty between the commandant general of the internal provinces
and the Marquis Casa Calva, who had given permission to Mr.
Duntaar to explore the Ouchata contrary to the general principles of
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 271
their government, in consequence of which, the former had made
representations against the latter to the court of Madrid.
After dinner his excellency ordered up his coach, Captain D'Al-
mausa, Bartholomew and myself entered with him and drove out
three miles. He was drawn by six mules, and attended by a guard
of cavalry. When we parted his adieu was, Remember Allencaster
in peace or war.
I left a note for my sergeant, with instructions to keep up good dis-
cipline, and not be alarmed or discouraged. As I was about leaving
the public square, poor Colly, the American prisoner, came up with
tears in his eyes, and expressed his hope I would not forget him
when I arrived in the United States. After we left the governor,
we rode on about three mile* to a defile, where we halted for the
troops, and I soon found that the old soldier who accompanied, us,
and commanded our escort, was fond of a drop of the cheering li-
quor, as his boy carried a bottle in his cochmelies (a small leather
case, attached to the saddle for the purpose of carrying small
articles). We were accompanied by my friend Bartholomew. We
ascended a hill and galloped on until about ten o'clock, snowing
hard all the time, when we came to a precipice, which we descended,
meeting with great difficulty from the obscurity of the night, to a
small village, where we put up in the quarters of the priest, he being
absent.
After supper Captain D'Almansa related to me, that he had served
his Catholic Majesty forty years to arrive at the rank he then
held, which was that of first lieutenant in the line and a captain by
brevet, whilst he had seen various young Europeans promoted over
his head. After the old man had taken his quantum sufficit, and
gone to sleep, Bartholomew and my self sat up for some hours; he
explaining to me their situation, and the great desire they felt for a
change of affairs, and an open trade with the United States. I pointed
out to him with chalk on the floor, the geographical connection and
273 TRAVELS THROUGH
route from North Mexico and Louisiana, *nd finally gave him a cer-
tificate addressed to the citizens of the United States, stating- his'
being friendly disposed and a man of influence. This paper he
seemed to estimate a* a very valuable acquisition, as he was deci-
dedly of opinion we should invade that country the ensuing spring,
and not all my assurances to the contrary could eradicate that
klea.
Thursday, 5th Match.—It sno wing very badly in the morning, we did
not march until eleven o'clock. In the mean time Bartholomew and
myself paid a visit to an old invalid Spaniard, who received us in the
most hospitable manner, giving us chocolate and other refreshments.'
He, made many enquiries as to our government and religion, arid of
* * * * who did not fail to give them the brightest colouring, he being
enthusiastic in their favour, from his many conversations With me, and
drawing comparisons with his own country. What appeared most
extraordinary to the old veteran was, that we ever changed ottr-pre-
sident, (whosepowers I was obliged to draw oh'ft hearer affinity
with those of a monarch, than they really are,' in''oriter that they
might comprehend his station) and that there was a per fete t freedom
of conscience permitted in our country. He expressed his warm
approbation of the measure. In the priest's house iiv which we put
up, were a couple of orphan girls, who. were adopted by:him in their
infancy, and at this time constituted his whole family.
I bade adieu t6 itty friend Bartholomew, aftd; could not avoid
shedding tears; he embraced n»e and all my meti.'
We arrived at two o'clock at the village of St. Domin20-. Which I
O . o * f
apprehend to be nine miles to the eastward of the Rio del Norte.
Its population may be about one thousand natives, generally go-
verned by their own chief. The chiefs of the villages were distin-
guished by a cane, with a silver Itead and black tassd. On our
arrival'at the public hocse, Captain- jyAlniansa was' waked on by
the governor, cap in hand, to receive his orders fe*; furnishing our
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 273
quarters, and ourselves with wood, water, provisions, &c. for the
house itself contained nothing but bare walls, and small grated
windows; and brought to ray mind a lively idea of the representa-
tion of the Spanish inhabitants, made by Dr. Moore in his travels
through Spain, Italy, &c. This village, as well as that of St. Philip
and St. Bartholomew, are of the nation of Keres, many of whom
do not yet speak good Spanish.
After we had refreshed ourselves a little, the captain sent for the
keys of the church, when we entered it. I was much astonished
to find, inclosed in mud brick walls, many rich paintings, and the
Saint (Domingo) as large as life, elegantly ornamented with gold
and silver. The captain made a slight inclination of the head, and
intimated to me, that this was the patron of the village. We then
ascended into the gallery, where the choir are generally placed. In
an outside hall was placed another image of the Saint, less richly
ornamented, where the populace repaired daily, and knelt to return
thanks for benefactions received, or to ask new favours. Many
young girls made choice of the time of our visit to be on their knees
before the holy patron. From the flat rpof of the church, we had a
delightful view of the village, the Rio del Norte on the west, the
mountains of St. Dies to the south, and the valley round the town,
on which were numerous herds of goats, sheep, and asses: upon
the whole, this was one of the finest views in New Mexico.
Friday, 6th March.—Marched down the Rio del Norte, on the
eastern side; snow one foot deep; passed large flocks of goats. At the
village of St. Philip, crossed a bridge of eight arches, constructed
as follows, viz. the pillars made of neat wood work, something
similar to a crate, and in the form of a keel boat, the sharp end (or
bow) to the current; this crate or butment filled with stone, in
which the river had lodged sand, clay, &c. until it had become of a
tolerably firm consistence. On the top of the pillars were laid pine
logs, length ways, squared on two sides, and being joined pretty
274 . TRAVELS THROUGH
close, made a tolerable bridge for horses, but would not have been
very safe for carriages, as there were no hand rails.
On our arrival at the house of the priest, we were received in a
very polite and friendly manner, and before my departure we
seemed to have been friends for years. During our dinner, at which
we had a variety of wines, we were entertained with music, consisting
of bass drums, French horns, violins and cymbals. We also entered
into a long and candid detail of the injustice done to the Creoles,
wherein the Father neither spared the government nor its admini-
strators. Both as to government and religion he displayed a liber-
ality of opinion and a fund of knowledge which astonished me. He
shewed me a statistical table, on which he had in a regular manner
taken the whole province of New Mexico by villages, beginning at
Taos on the northwest, and ending with Valencia on the south;
giving their latitude, longitude, population, whether savages or
Spaniards, civilized or barbarous, Christians or Pagans; numbers,
name of the nation, when converted, how governed, military force,
clergy, salary, £c. £c. in short a complete geographical and his-
torical sketch of the province. Of this I wished to obtain a copy,
but perceived that the Captain was somewhat surprised at the Fa-
ther's having shewn it me. When we parted we promised to write
to each other, which I performed from Chihuahua. Here was an
old Indian who was extremely inquisitive to know if we were Spa-
niards; to which an old gentleman, who appeared to be an inmate of
the Father's, replied in the affirmative: but the Indian observed,
they do not speak Castilian? True, replied the other, but you are
an Indian of the nation of Keres, are you not? Yes. Well, the
Utahs are Indians also? yes. But still you do not understand them,
they speak a different language. True, replied the Indian. Well,, said
the old gentleman, these strangers are likewise Spaniards, but do not
speak the same language with us. This reasoning seemed to satisfy
the poor savage, and I could not but smile at the ingenuity displayed:
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 275
to make him believe there was no other nation of whites but the
Spaniards.
Whilst at dinner, the father was informed one of his parishioners
was at the point of death, and wished his attendance to receive his
confession.
We took our departure, but were shortly after overtaken by our
friend, who after giving me another hearty shake of the hand, left us
at full speed. Crossed the river, and passed two small hamlets
and houses on the road, to the village of St. Dies, opposite the
mountain of the same name, where we were received in a house of
the Father's, this making part of his domains.
Saturday, 7th March.—Marched at nine o'clock, through a country
better cultivated and inhabited than any I had yet seen. Arrived at
Albuquerque, a village on the eastern side of the Rio del Norte. We
were received by Father Ambrosio Guerra in a very flattering man-
ner, and led into his hall, from thence, after taking some refreshment,
into an inner apartment, where he ordered his adopted children of
the female sex to appear, when they came in by turns. They were
Indians of various nations—Spanish, French, and finally two young
girls who, from their complexion, I conceived to be English: ou,
perceiving I noticed them, he ordered the rest to retire, many of
whom were beautiful, and directed these two to sit down on the sofa
beside me. Thus situated, he told me that they had been taken
to the east by the letans, passed from one nation to the other until
he purchased them, (at that time infants) but they could recollect
neither names nor language. Concluding they were my country
women, he ordered them to embrace me as a mark of their friend-
ship, to which they appeared nothing loath. We then sat down to
dinner, which consisted of various dishes, excellent wines, and to
croAvn all, we were waited upon by half a dozen of those beautiful
girls, who like Hebe at the feast of tJbe gods, converted our wine
into nectar, and with their ambrosial breath shed incense on our cups
N N 2
276 TRAVELS THROUGH
After the cloth was removed, the priest beckoned to me to follow him*
and led me into his sanctum sanctorum, where he had the rich and ma-
jestic images of various saints, and in the midst the crucified Jesus,
crowned with thorns, but with rich rays of golden glory surrounding
his head. The room being hung with black silk curtains, served to'
augment the gloom and majesty of the scene. When he conceived
my imagination sufficiently wrought up, he put on a black gown-
and mitre, kneeled before the cross, took hold of my hand, and
endeavoured gently to pull me down beside him: on my refusal, he
prayed fervently for a few minutes, and then rose, laid his hands
on my shoulders, and as I conceived blessed me; he then said to me,
'* You will not be a Christian. Oh, what a pity! oh, what a pity!"
He then threw off his robes, took me by the hand, led me out to
the company, smiling; but the scene I had gone through, made too.
serious an impression on my mind to be eradicated, until we took
our departure an hour after, having received great marks of favoun
from the Father.
At Father Ambrosio's was the only chart I saw in the province?
and it gave the near connection of the sources of the Rio del Norte,'
and the Rio Colorado of California, with their ramifications.
Both above and below Albuquerque the citizens were beginning
to open the canals, to let in the water of the river to fertilize the
plains and fields which border its banks on both sides: we saw men,
women, and children of all ages and both sexes, at the joyful labour,
which was to crown with rich abundance their future harvest, and
ensure them plenty for the ensuing year. These scenes brought to
my recollection the bright descriptions given by Savary, of the open-
ing of the canals of Egypt. The cultivation of the fields was now
commencing, and every thing appeared to give life and gaiety to the
surrounding scenery. We crossed the Rio del Norte, a.little below
fche village of Albuquerque, where it was four hundred yards widey
but not more than three feet deep, and excellent fording. On our
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 37?
arrival at the next village, a dependency of Father Ambrosio's, we
were invited into tlue house of the commandant. When I entered, I
saw a man sitting by the fire, reading a book, with blooming cheeks^
fine complexion, and a genius speaking eye. He arose from his seat;
it was Robinson! not that Robinson who had left my camp on the
head waters of the Rio del Norte, pale, emaciated, with uncombed
locks and beard of eight months' growth, but with fire, unsubdued
enterprise and fortitude; the change was indeed surprising. I start-
ed back,, and exclaimed, Robinson! yes, but I do not know you, I
replied; but I know you, he exclaimed, and I would not be unknown
to you here, in this land of tyranny and oppression, to avoid all the
pains they dare to inflict. Yet, my friend, I grieve to see you here,
and thus, for I presume you are a prisoner? I replied, No! I wear
my sword you see, and all my men have their amis, and the mo-
ment they dare to ill-treat us, we will surprise their guards in the
night, carry off some horses, and make our way to Appaches, and
then set them at defiance. At this moment, Captain D'Ahnansa
entered, and I introduced Robinson to him, as my companion de
voyage and friend. Having before seen him at Santa Fe, he did
not appear much surprised, and received him Avith a significant
smile, as much as to say I knew this. We then marched out to the
place where the soldiers were encamped, not one of whom would
recognixe him, agreeably to my orders^ until I gave them the sign;
then it was a joyful meeting, as the whole party was enthusiastically
fond of him. He gave me the following relation of his adventures
after he left me..
"I marched the first day up the branch on which we were situated
(as you4cnow we had concluded it would be the most proper to fol-
low it to its source, and then cross the mountains west, when we
had conceived we should find the Spanish settlements). At night '1-
encamped on its banks: the second day I left it a little and bore
more south, .and was getting up the side of the mountain, when I-
278 TRAVELS THROUGH
discovered two Indians, for whom I made. They were armed with
bows and arrows, and were extremely shy of my approach; but after
some time, confidence being somewhat restored, I signified a wish
to go to Santa Fe, when they pointed due south down the river on
which I had left you. As I could not believe them, I reiterated the in-
quiry, and received the same reply. I then concluded that we had
been deceived, and that you were on the Rio del Norte, instead of
Red river, and was embarrassed whether I should not immediately
return and apprise you of it, but concluded it to be too late, as I
was discovered by the Indians. If I had not met them, or some
others, I should have continued on and crossed the mountain to the
waters of the Colorado and descended them, until from their course I
should have discovered my mistake. I therefore offered the Indians
some presents to conduct me in: they agreed, conducted me to their
camp, where their women were, and in five minutes we were on our
march. That night we encamped in the woods: I slept very little,
owing to my distrust of my companions. The next day at three
o'clock, P. M. we arrived at the village of Agua Caliente, where I
was immediately taken into the house of the commandant, and ex-
presses were despatched to Santa Fe; that night I was put to sleep
on a mattrass on the floor. The next day we departed early, leav-
ing my arms and baggage at the commandant's, he promising to
have them forwarded to me at the city. On our arrival at Santa F6,
the governor received me with great austerity at first, entered
into an examination of my business, and took possession of all my
papers. After all this was explained, he ordered me to a room where
the officers were confined when under arrest, and commanded a
non-commissioned officer to attend me when I walked into the city,
•which I had free permission to do. I was supplied with provision from
the governor's table, who had promised he would write to Baptiste
Lalande, whose circumstances I had apprised myself of, to come
down and amwer to the claim I had against him. The second day
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 279
the governor sent for me, and informed me that he had made en-
quiry as to the abilities of Lalande to discharge the debt, and
found that he possessed no property, but that at some future period
he would secure the money 'ftrf me. To this I made a spirited rejflon-
strance^ as an infringement of our treaties, and a protection of a
refugee citizen of the United States against his creditors; which had
no other effect than to obtain me an invitation to dinner, and rather
more respectful treatment than I had hitherto received from his
excellency. Being slightly afflicted with the dropsy, he requested
my advice as to his case. On which I prescribed a regimen and modfe
of treatment, which happening to differ from the one adopted by a
monk and practising physician of the place, brought oft me his en-
mity and ill-offices. The'ensuing day I was ordered by the governor
to hold myself in readiness to proceed to the internal parts of the
country.: to which I agreed, determining not to attempt to leaVe the
country 1 in a clandestine manner, unless they offered to treat me
with indignity or hardship, and conceiving it in my power to join
you, on your retreat, or find Red-river and descend it, should you
not be brought in, but in that case to share your destiny: added to
this, I felt a desire to see more of the country, fbr which purpose I
was willing to run the risk of future consequences. We marched the
ensuing day, I having been'equipped by a friend with some small
articles of which I stood in need, such as I would receive out of
numerous offers. The fourth day I arrived at' the village of
St. Fernandez, where I toas received and taken charge of by
Lieutenant Don Faciendo Malgares, who cbmmanded the expe-
dition to the Pawnees, and whom you will find a gentleman, a soldier,,
and one of the most gallant men you ever knew. With him I could
no longer keep the disguise, and when he informed me (two days
since) that you were on the way in, I confessed to him I belonged
to your party, and we have been- ever since anticipating the plea-
sures'we shall enjoy in our journey to Chihuahua, for he is to com--
280 TRAVELS THROUGH
mand the escort, his dragoons being now encamped in the field.
Since I have been with him I have practised physic in the country,
in order to have an opportunity of examining the manners, customs,
&c. of the people, and to endeavour to ascertain their political and
religious feelings, with every other species of information which
would be necessary to our country or ourselves. I am now here on a
visit to this man's wife, attended by a corporal of dragoons as a
guard, who answered very well as a waiter and guide in my excur-
sions through the country, but I will immediately return with you
to Malgares."
Thus ended Robinson's relation; and I in return recounted what
had occurred to the party and myself. We agreed upon our future
line of conduct, and then joined my old captain in the house, who
had been persuaded to tarry all night, provided it was agreeable to
me, as our host wished Robinson to remain until next day. With
this proposition I complied, in order that Robinson and myself
might have a further discussion before we joined Malgares, who I
suspected would watch us closely. The troops proceeded on to the
village of Tousac that evening.'
Sunday, 8th March.—Marched after taking breakfast, and halted
at the little village of Tousac, three miles distant, situated on the
western side of the Rio del Norte. The men informed me that on
their arrival overnight they had been all furnished with an excellent
supper, and after supper wine and a violin, with an assemblage of
the young people to a dance. When we left this village, the priest
sent a cart down to ferry us over, as the river was nearly four feet
deep. When we approached the village of St. Fernandez, we were
met by Lieutenant Malgares, accompanied by two or three other
officers: he received me with the most manly frankness and the
politeness of a man of the world, yet my feelings were such as almost
overpowered me, and obliged me to ride alone for a short period, in
order to recover myself. My sensations arose from my knowledge,
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 281
that he had now been absent from Chihuahua ten months, and it
had cost the king of Spain more than ten thousand dollars to do that
which a mere accident, and the deception of the governor, had effect-
ed. Malgares, perceiving I did not find myself at ease, took every
means in his power to banish my reserve, which made it impossible
on my part not to endeavour to appear cheerful. We conversed as
well as we could, and in two hours were as well acquainted as some
people would be in the same number of months. Malgares possesses
none of the haughty Castilian pride, but much of the urbanity of the
Frenchman; and I will add my feeble testimony to his loyalty, by
declaring that he was one of the few officers or citizens whom I
found loyal to their king, felt indignation at the degraded state of
the Spanish monarchy, and deprecated a revolution or separation of
Spanish America from the mother country, unless France should
usurp the government of Spain. These are the men who possess the
heads to plan, the hearts to feel, and the hands to carry this great
and important work into execution.
In the afternoon our friend wrote the following notification to
the Alcaldes of several small villages around us: "Send this even-
ing six or eight of your handsomest young girls to the village of St.
Fernandez, where I propose giving a fandango, for the entertain-
ment of the American officers arrived to day."
(Signed) DON FACIENDO.
This order was punctually obeyed, and pourtrays more clearly
than a chapter of observations the degraded state of the common
people. In the evening, when the company arrived, the ball began
after their usual manner, and there was really a handsome display
of beauty.' ,
It will be proper to mention here, that when my small paper trunk
was brought in, lieutenant Malgares struck his foot against it, and
said, "the governor informs me, this is a prisoner of war, or that I
o o
282 TRAVELS THROUGH
have charge of it; but, Sir, only assure me that you will hold the
papers therein contained sacred, I will have nothing to do with it/*
I bowed assent, and I will only add, that the condition was scrupu-
lously adhered to, as I was bound by every tie of military and
national honour, and let me add gratitude, not to abuse his high
confidence in the honour of a soldier. He further added, ** Dr. Ro-
binson being now acknowledged one of your party, I shall withdraw
his guard, and consider him as under your parole of honour/' These
marks of politeness and friendship caused me to endeavour to evince
to my brother soldier that we were capable of appreciating his
honourable conduct towards us.
Monday? 9th March.—The troops marched about ten o'clock. Lieu-
tenant Malgares and myself accompanied Captain D'Almansa about
three miles back on his route to Santa Fe, to the house of a citizen,
where we dined; after which we separated. I wrote by the captain
to the governor in French*, respecting Robinson. D'Almansa pre-
sented me with his cap and whip, and gave me a letter of recommen-
dation to an officer at Chihuahua. We returned to our old quarters,
and being joined by our escort commenced our route. Passed a
village called St. Thomas, one mile distant from the camp. The
camp was formed in an ellipsis, the two long sides presenting a breast-
work, composed of the saddles and loads of the mules, each end of
the ellipsis having a small opening to pass and repass at. In the
centre was the commandant's tent. Thus in case of an attack upon
the camp there were ready formed works to fight from. Malgares's
mode of living was superior to any thing we have an idea of in our
army, having eight mules loaded with his common camp equipage,
wines, confectionary, &c. But this only served to evince the corrup-
tion of the Spanish discipline, for if a subaltern indulged himself
* See Appendix, No. XII.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 283
with such a quantity of baggage, what would be the cavalcade at-
tending an army? Doctor Robinson had been called over the
river to a small village to see a sick woman, and did not return that
night. Distance advanced twelve miles.
Tuesday, 10th March.—Marched at eight o'clock and arrived at
the village of Sibilleta; having passed on the way the villages of Sa-
binez and Xaxales on the western side. Sibilleta is situated on the
eastern side, and is a regular square, appearing like a large mud wall
on the outside, the doors, windows, &c. facing the square, and is
the neatest and most regular village I have yet seen. It is governed
by a sergeant, at whose quarters I put up.
Wednesday, 11th March.—Marched at eleven o'clock; came twelve
miles and encamped, the troops having preceded us. The village at
which we passed the night being the last of the inhabited country,
we now entered the wilderness, and the road became rough, small
hills running into the river forming vallies, but the bottoms appeared
richer than those to the north.
Thursday, 12th March.—Marched at seven o'clock, and passed on
the western side of the river the mountains of Magdalen, and the Black
mountains on the east. Passed the encampment of the caravan,
going out with about fifteen thousand sheep for the other provinces,
for which they bring back merchandize. This expedition consisted
of about three hundred men, chiefly citizens, escorted by an officer
and thirty-five or forty troops; they are collected at Sibilleta, and
separate on their return; they go t>ut in February and return in
March. A similar expedition goes out in the autumn; during the
other parts of the year, no citizen travels the road. The couriers
meet at the pass of the Rio del Norte and exchange packets, when
each returns to his own province. Met a caravan of fifty men and
probably two hundred horses, loaded with traffic for New Mexico.
Halted at twelve o'clock and marched at three. Lieutenant Malgares
shewed me the place where he had been in two affrays with the
o o 2
284 TRAVELS THROUGH
Appaches, in one he commanded himself, and in the other was com-
manded by Captain D'Almansa; in the former there was one
Spaniard killed and eight wounded, and ten Appaches made pri-
soners; in the latter fifty-two Appaches wounded, and seventeen
killed, they being surprised in the night. Malgares killed two him-
self, and had two horses killed under him.
Friday, 13th March.—Marched at seven o'clock; saw many deer;
halted at eleven, and marched again at four o'clock. This day one of
our horses threw a young woman, and ran off (as was the habit of all
the Spanish horses, if by chance they threw their rider) when many
of the dragoons and Malgares himself pursued him. I being mount-
ed on an elegant horse of Malgares's joined in the chase, and not-
withstanding their superior horsemanship overtook the horse, caught
his bridle and stopped him, when both the horses were nearly at
full speed. This act procured me the applause of the Spanish dra-
goons, and it is astonishing how it operated on their good will.
Saturday, 14th March.—Marched at ten o'clock, and halted at a
mountain, distant ten miles. This is the point at which the road
leaves the river for two days journey, bearing due south, the river
taking a turn south-west, it being five days journey along its course
to where the roads again meet. We marched at four o'clock, and
eight miles below crossed the river to the western-side. Two mules fell
in the water, and as our stars would have it, with the loads con-
taining the stores of Lieut. Malgares, by which means we lost all
our bread, and an excellent assortment of biscuits, &c. Distance
advanced eighteen miles.
Sunday, 15th March.—Marched at half past ten o'clock; made
twenty-eight miles ; the route rough and stony; course S. 20° W.
Monday, 16th March.—Marched at seven o'clock, and halted at
twelve; passed on the eastern side the Horse mountain, and the
Mountain of the Dead: came on a trail of the appearance of two hun-
dred horses, supposed to be that of an expedition from the province
of Biscay against the Indians.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 285
Tuesday', 17th March.—Marched at ten o'clock, and at four in the
afternoon crossed the river to the eastern side; saw several fresh
Indian tracts, also the trail of a large party of horse, supposed to be
Spanish troops in pursuit of the Indians: marched down the river
twenty six miles. Perceived fresh sign of Indians, and of a party of
horse. Country mountainous on both sides of the river.
Wednesday, 18th March.—Marched down the river twenty-six
miles; observed fresh sign of Indians and of a party of horse;
country still mountainous on both sides of the river.
Thursday, ipth March.—Struck out eastward about three miles and
fell into the main road, (or a large flat prairie) which we left at the
mountain of the Friar Christopher.
Friday, 20th March.—Halted at ten o'clock at a salt lake; marched
until two o'clock, when we halted for the day. Vegetation began now
to be discoverable; on the seventeenth and this day the weeds and
grass were quite high.
Saturday, 21st March—Marched in the morning and arrived at
the Passo del Norte at eleven o'clock, the road leading through a
hilly and mountainous country. We put up at the house of Don.
Francisco Garcia, who was a merchant and a planter; he possessed
in the vicinity of the town twenty thousand sheep, and one thousand
cows. We were received in a most hospitable manner by Don
Pedro Roderique Rey, the lieutenant governor, and father Joseph
Prado the vicar of the place. This was by far the most flourishing
town we had been in.
Sunday, 22d March—Remained at the Passo.
Monday, 23d March.—Attended mass. Left the Passo at three
o'clock for St. Eleazaro, accompanied by the lieutenant governor, the
vicar, and Allencaster, a brother of the governor. Malgares, myself,
and the doctor took up our quarters at the house of Captain
who was then at Chihuahua; but his lady and sister entertained us
286 TRAVELS THROUGH
in a very elegant and hospitable manner. They began playing
cards, and continued until late the third day. Malgares, who won
considerably, would send frequently fifteen or twenty dollars from
the table to the lady of the house, her sisters, and others, and
beg their acceptance of them, in order that fortune might still
continue propitious; in this manner he distributed five hundred
dollars.
Round this fort were a great number of Appaches, who were on a
treaty with the Spaniards: these people appeared to be perfectly
independent in their manners, and were the only savages I saw in
the Spanish dominions whose spirit was not humbled, and whose neck
was not bound to the yoke of their invaders. "With these people
Malgares was extremely popular, and 1 believe he sought popularity
with them, and with all the common people, for there was no man so
poor or so humble under whose roof he would not enter; and when
he walked out, I have seen him put a handful of dollars in his
pocket, and give them all before he returned to quarters to the old
men, women, and children; but to his equals he was haughty and
overbearing. This conduct he pursued through the whole province
of North Mexico and Biscay, when at a distance from the seat of
government. But I could plainly perceive he was cautious of his
conduct as he approached the capital. I here left a letter for my
sergeant.
Tuesday, 24th March.—Very bad weather.
Wednesday, 25th March.—The troops marched, but Lieutenant
Malgares and myself remained.
Thursday, 26th March.—Divine service was performed in the morn-
ing at the garrison, at which all the troops attended under arms. At
one part of their mass theypresent arms; at another, sink on one knee,
and rest the muzzle of the gun on the ground, in signification of their
submission to their Divine Master. At one o'clock we bade adieu to
our friendly hostess, who was one of the finest women I had seen in
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 287
New Spain. At dusk arrived at a small pond, made by a spring
which arose in the centre, called the Ojo Malalka, and seemed
formed by Providence to enable the human race to pass that route,
as it was the only water for sixty miles of the road. Here we over-
took sergeant Belardie, with the party of dragoons from Senora and
Bisday, who had left us at St. Eleazaro, where we had received a
new escort. Distance advanced twenty miles.
Friday, 2?thMarch.—Arrived atCarracal at twelve o'clock; distant
twenty-eight miles. The road was well watered, and the situation
pleasant. The father-in-law of our friend commanded six or seven
years here. When we arrived at the fort, the commandant, Don
Pedro Rues Saramende, received Robinson and myself with a cold
bow, and informed Malgares that we might repair to the public quar-
ters: to this Malgares indignantly replied, that he should accompany
us, and turned to depart, when the commandant took him by the
arm, made many apologies to him and us, and we at length reluc-
tantly entered his quarters. Here for the first time I saw the gazette
of Mexico, which gave rumours of Colonel Burr's conspiracies, the
movements of our troops, &c. &c.; but which were stated in so
vague and undefined a manner as only to excite our anxiety, without
throwing any light on the subject.
Saturday, 28th March.—Marched at half past three o'clock, and
arrived at the warm springs at sun-down; crossed one little fosse on
the route.
Sunday, 29th March.—Marched at ten o'clock, and continued our
route with but a short halt until sun-down, when we encamped
without water. Distance advanced thirty miles.
Monday, 30th March—Marched before seven o'clock; the front ar-
rived at water at eleven o'clock, the mules at twelve. The spring on
the side of the mountain to the eastward of the road is in a beauti-
ful situation. I here saw the first ash timber I observed in the country.
This water is fifty-two miles from the waraj springs. Yesterday and.
288 TRAVELS THROUGH
today saw much cabrie. Marched fifteen miles further, and encamp-
ed without wood or water; passed two other small springs to the
eastward of the road.
Tuesday, 31st March.—Marched early, and arrived at a delightful
spring at ten o'clock.. The road from Senora, Tanos and Buenaven-
tura, &c. joins about four hundred yards before you arrive at the
spring. Arrived at the village of — at night, containing a large
and elegant house for the country. Here were various labours car-
ried on by criminals in irons. We here met with a Catalonian who
was but a short time from Spain, and whose dialect was such that
he could scarcely be understood by Malgares, and his manners were
much more like those of a citizen of our western frontiers than of
a subject of a despotic prince.
Wednesday, 1st April.—In the morhingMalgares despatched a cou-
rier with a letter to the commanding general, to inform him of our
approach; also to his father-in-law .
Thursday, 3d April.—When we arrived at Chiahuahua, we pursued
our course through the town to the house of the general. I was much
astonished to see with what anxiety Malgares anticipated the meet-
ing with his military chief, after having been on the most arduous
and enterprising expedition ever undertaken by any of his majesty's
officers from these provinces, and having executed it with equal
spirit and judgment; yet was he fearful of his meeting him with
an eye of displeasure, and appeared to be much more agitated than
ourselves, although we may be supposed to have had our sensations
likewise; as on the will of this man depended our future destmy,
at least until our country could interfere in our behalf. On our ar-
rival at the general's, we were halted in the hall of the guard, until
word was sent to him of our presence, when Malgares was first in-
troduced, and remained with him sometime. During this interval,
a Frenchman came up and endeavoured to enter into conversation
with us, but was soon frowned into silence, as we conceived him to be
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 289
only some authorized spy. Malgares at last came out and asked
me to walk in. I found the general sitting at his desk; he was a
middle sized man, apparently about fifty-five years of age, with a
stern countenance; but he received me graciously and beckoned to
a seat: he then observed, "you have given us and yourself a great
deal of trouble."
Capt. Pike.—On my part, entirely unsought, and on that of the
Spanish government voluntary.
General.—Where arc your papers?
Capt. Pike.—Under charge of Lieut. Malgares. Malgares was
then ordered to have my small trunk brought in; which being done,
a Lieut. Walker entered: he is a native of New Orleans, his father
an Englishman, his mother a French-woman, and he spoke both
languages equally well, also the Spanish; he was a'lieutenant of
dragoons in the Spanish service, and master of the military school
at Chihuahua. This young gentleman was employed by Mr. An-
drew Ellicot, as a deputy surveyor in the Florida line, between the
United States and Spain, in the years 1797 and 1798.
General Salcedo desired him to assist me in taking out my papers,
and requested me to explain the nature of each. Such as he
conceived to be relevant to the expedition he caused to be laid on
one side, and those which were not of a public nature on the other;
the whole either passing through the hands of the General or Walker,
except a few letters from Mrs. Pike. On my taking up these and
saying they were letters from a lady, .the General gave a proof,
that if the ancient Spanish bravery hud degenerated in their nation
generally, their gallantry still existed, by bowing; I then put them in
my pocket. He now informed me that he would examine the pa-
pers, but that in the mean while he wished me to make, and present
him a short sketch of my voyage, which might probably be satis-
factory. This I would have positively refused, had I had an idea that
. TRAVELS THROUGH
it was his determination to keep the papers; which I could not at
that time conceive from his urbanity, and the satisfaction which he
appeared to exhibit on the event of our interview. He then told
me that I should take up my quarters with Walker, in order, as he
aaid, to be better accommodated by having a person with me who
spoke the English language; but, as I suspected, that he might be a
spy on our actions, and on those who visited us. Robinson all this
time had been standing in the guard-room boiling with indignation
at being so long detained there, subject to the observations of the
soldiery and the gaping curiosity of the vulgar. He was now intro-
duced by some mistake of one of the aids-de-camp; when he ap-
peared, he made a slight bow to the general, who demanded of
Malgares who he was; he replied a doctor who accompanied the
expedition. "Let him retire," and he went out: the general
then invited me to return and dine with him. We now went to the
quarters of Walker, where we received several different invitations
to take quarters at houses where we might be better accommodated;
but understanding that the general had designated our quarters, all
were silent. We returned to dine at the palace, where we met
Malgares, who, with ourselves, was the only guest. At the table
were the treasurer Truxillio and a priest called Father Rocus. The
dinner was mean, and by no means more splendid than many of our
subalterns give when they have company, but it was in character
with our host.
Friday, 3d April.—Employed in giving a sketch of our voyage, for
the General and Commandant of these provinces. Introduced to Don
Bernardo Villamil, Don Alberto Mayner, Lieut. Colonel and father-
in-law to Malgares, Don Manuel Zuloago, a member of the secre-
tary office, ta whom I am under obligations of gratitude, and whom
I shall remember with esteem. Visited his house in the evening..
Saturdayy 4th April.—Visited the hospital where were two fine look-
ing men, who were severely afflicted,with the lues venerea, and there-
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 291
was nota physician in his majesty's hospital who was abletocure them,,
but after repeated attempts, had given them up to perish. This shews
the extreme impaired state of the medical science in the provinces. I
endeavoured to get Robinson to undertake the cure of these poor
fellows, but the jealousy and envy of the Spanish doctors made it
impracticable.
Sunday, 5th April.—Visited by Lieut. M. with a very polite message
from bis Excellency ,[and delivered in the most impressive termsof offers
of assistance, with money, &c. for which I returned my respectful
thanks. Accompanied Malgares to the public walk, where we found
the secretary, Capt. Villamil, Zuloaga, and other officers of distinction.
We here likewise met with the wife of my friend Malgares, to whom
he introduced us. She was like all the other ladies of New Spain,
a little gross in her form, but possessed the national beauty of eye in a
superiordegree. There was a large assemblageof ladies,amongst whom
were two of the most celebrated in the capital. They were the only
two ladies who had spirit sufficient, and whose husbands had genero-
sity enough to allow them to think themselves rational beings, to be
treated on an equality, to receive the visits of their friends, and give
way to the hospitality of their dispositions, without constraint: they
were therefore the envy of the ladies, and the subject of scandal to
prudes. Their houses were the rendezvous of all the fashionable
male society; and every man who was conspicuous for science, arts,
or arms, was sure to meet a welcome. We as unfortunate strangers
were consequently not forgotten. I returned with Malgares to the
house of his father-in-law, who was originally from Cadiz, a man of
good information, and much in favour of an emancipation of that
country from the French t y, and took every opportunity when
his son-in-law was not present, to converse with Robinson and
myself on that subject, as to the means to be pursued by Spanish
America, and what probable assistance we would give, &c.
p p 2
292 TRAVELS THROUGH
Monday, 6th April.—Dined with the General. In the evening visited
Malgares and the Secretary: after dinner wine was put on the table,
and we were entertained with songs in the French, Italian, Spanish,
and English languages. Accustomed as I was to sitting some time
after dinner, I forgot their siesta, or afternoon repose, until Walker
hinted the subject to me and we retired. Wrote to the General on
the subject of a loan of money*.
Tuesday, 7th April.—Dined at Don Antonio Cabraries in company
with Villamil, Zuloaga, Walker, &c. Sent in a sketch of my voyage
to the General; spent the evening at colonel Minors' with Malgares.
Wednesday, 8th April.—Visited the Treasurer, who shewed me a
double-barrelled gun given him by Governor Claiborne, and another,
formerly the property of Nolan.
Thursday,9tli April.—In the evening was informed that David Pharo
was in town, and wished to speak to me. This man had formerly been
my father's ensign, and was taken with Nolan's party at the time the
latter was killed. He possessed a brave soul, and had borne every
oppression since.his being made prisoner with astonishing fortitude;
although his leaving the place of his confinement (the village of
Jeronime). without the knowledge -'of, the General, was in some
measure clandestine;, yet a countrynjanj a» acquaintance, and for-
merly a brother soldier, in a strange land in distress, had ventured
considerably to see me: could I deny, him. the Interview from any
motives of delicacy ? no, forbid.it humanity, forbid it every, sen timenfc
of my soul! Our meeting was.affecting. With.tears standing in his
eyes, he informed me of the particulars of their being taken, and
many other circumstances since their being in, the country.. I pro-
mised to do all I could for him, consistently with my character, and
honour, and with the circumstance of their having entered the coun-
try without the authority of the United States.. As he was obliged ta
* See Appendix, No. XIII,
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 293
leave the town before day, he called on me at my quarters, when I
bade him adieu, and gave him what my purse afforded, not what
my heart dictated.
Friday, 10th April.—In the evening at Colonel Minors', Capt. Ro-
deriquas arrived from the province of Texas. He had been under arrest
one year, for going to Natchetoches with the Marquis Casabalvo.
Saturday,llth, April.-.—Rode out in the coach with Malgares; was/
hospitably entertained at the house of one of the Vallois; here we
drank London porter. Visited the secretary Vallamil.
Sunday, 12th April.—Dined with the Doctor at Don Antonio
Gabraries', with our usual guests; in the evening at the public walks.
Monday, 13th April.'—Nothing extraordinary.
Tuesday, 14th April.—Spent the forenoon in writing, the afternoon
at Don Antonio Cabraries'.
Wednesday, 15th April.J—Spent the evening at Colonel Minors' with
our friend Malgares; wrote a letter to the General on the subject
ef my papers.*
Thursday, l6th April.—Spent the evening atsecretary Don VallamiPs..
Friday,. H\h April.—Sent my letter to his excellency; spent the
evening with my friend Malgares.
Saturday, 18th April.—Spent the evening at Cabraries', &c. Wrote
to Governor Allencaster.
Sunday, 19th April.—In the evening at a fandango.
Monday, 20th April.—We this day learned that an American officer
had gone onto the city of Mexico: this was an enigma to us inexpli-
cable, as we conceived that the jealousy of the Spanish government
would have prevented any foreign officer from penetrating the coun'r
try; and what the United States could send an authorized agent to
the Vice-royalty for, when the Spanish government Had at the seat
* See Appendix, No. XIV.
294 TRAVELS THROUGH
of our government, a charge des affaires served but to darken our
conjectures*. We likewise received an account of a commercial
treaty having been entered into between Great Britain and the United
States, which by the Dons was only considered as the preliminary
step to an alliance offensive and defensive between the two nations.
Tuesday, 21st April.—Presented the commanding General with a
letter for General Wilkinson, which he promised to have forwarded
to the Governor of Texas-f.
Wednesday, 22d April.—Spent the day in reading and studying
Spanish, the evening at dipt. Villamil's.
Thursday, 23d April.—Dined at Don Pedro Vallois; in the even-
ing with Colonel Minors; bade him adieu as he was to march the
next day. In the evening received a letter from the commanding
General, informing me my papers were to be detained, and giving
a certificate of their numbers, contents, &c. &c.:f
Friday, 24th April.—Spent the evening at **** with his relations,
and gave him a hint as to the following circumstances: About sun-
down an officer of the government called on me, and told me that the
government had been informed, that in conversation in all societies
Robinson and myself had held forth political maxims and principles,
which, if juet, I must be conscious would, if generally disseminated,
in a very few years be the occasion of a revolt of those kingdoms.
That these impressions had taken such effect, that it was no uncom-
mon thing in the circles in which we associated, to hear the compa-
rative principle of a republican, and monarchical government dis-
cussed; and even the allegiance due, in case of certain events, to
* The person alluded to was Mr. Bueling, a citizen of Mississippi territory, whose
mission is now known to the government.
t See Appendix, No. XV.
% See Appendix, No. XVI.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN.
the court called in question;, that various characters of consideration
had indulged themselves in these conversations, all of whom were
noted, and would be taken care of; but that as it respected myself
and companion, it was the desire of his excellency, that whilst in
the dominions of Spain, we would not hold any conversations what-
soever either on the subjects of religion or politics. I replied, that
it was true I had held various and free conversations on the
subjects complained of, but only with men high in office, who
might be supposed to be firmly attached to the king, and
partial to the government of their country: that I had never
gone among the poor and illiterate, preaching up republicanism or
a free government; that as to the Catholic religion, I had only com-
bated some of what I had conceived to be its illiberal dogmas, but
that I had spoken of it in all instances as a respectable branch of
the Christian religion, which, as well as all others, was tolerated
in the United States: that, had I come to that kingdom in a
diplomatic character, delicacy towards the government would have
sealed my lips; had I been a prisoner of war,, personal safety
might have had the same effect, but being there in the capacity I
was, not voluntarily, but by coercion of the Spanish government,
which at the same time had officially notified to me that they
did not consider me under any restraint whatever; I should when
called on,- always give my opinion freely, either as to politics or
religion, but at the same time with urbanity and a proper respect
to the legitimate authorities of the country." He replied, "well,
you may then rest assured, your conduct will be represented
in no very favourable point of view to your government." I an-
swered, " to my government I am certainly responsible, but to no
other." He then left me, and I immediately waited on some of my
friends, and notified to them the threat; at which they appeared
much .alarmed; and we went immediately to consult * * *, who to,
great attachment to his friends, joined the most incorruptible loyalty.
29(5 TRAVELS THROUGH
and the confidence of the government. Our consultation ended in
a determination to be silent and watch events. '. .
Saturday, 25th April.—At eleven o'clock called on his excellency,
but was informed he was engaged: about three o'clock I received
a message from him by Lieut. Walker, informing me that he was
surprised I had not returned, and requesting me to call without
ceremony in the evening, Ayhich 1 did, and presented him with a
letter on the subject of Nolan's men.* He then candidly informed
me my party would not join me in the territory of the king of
Spain, but that they should be attended to punctually, and forwarded
immediately after me. He requested that I would leave orders
with my sergeant to deliver up all his ammunition, and dispose in
some measure of the horses of which he had charge. I stated in
reply, that with respect to the ammunition, I would give orders to
my sergeant to deliver (if demanded) all they possessed, above what
was necessary to fill their horns; but that as to the horses, I consi-
dered their loss to be a charge which must be adjusted between the
two governments, that therefore I should not give any directions
respecting them, except as to bringing them on as far and as long as
they were able to travel. He then gave me an invitation to dine with
him o nthe morrow. . • ...
Sunday, 26th April.—Dined at the General's; in the evening went
to Zuloaga's, and to others. * * * * took me out from, the party and
addressed me: "We are both Americans, are we not? Yes; and we
will yet see the time when those who tyrannize over us as they now
do, will be on a level. I hope so, my friend. Yes, and so ,do. most
of the true Spaniards." This gentleman proposed to send one of
his sons to the United States with me for education, and carried the
idea so far as to ask permission, which was positively refused, and
* See Appendix, No. XVII. • • • - .I'" :H'W •
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 297
he was told that the request was considered heretical and disloyal.
Wrote to my sergeant and Pharo, to the latter of whom I sent ten
dollars, and to the other some money to purchase clothes for the
party. We had been for some time suspicious that the doctor was
to be detained, but this evening he likewise obtained permission to
pursue his voyage with me, which diffused general joy throughout
the party.
Monday, 27th ApriL—Spent this day in making arrangements for
our departure. .•. '.'
* * * had living with him an old negro, (the only one I saw
on that side of St. Antonio) who had been the property of some
person residing near Natchez, and had been taken with Nolan.
Having been acquainted with him in the Mississippi country, he
solicited and obtained permission for Caesar to live with him. I
found him very communicative and extremely useful the day I
arrived: when we were left alone, he came in, and looked around at
the walls of the room, and exclaimed, "What, all gone?*' I de-
manded an explanation, and he informed me that the maps of the
different provinces taken by * * *, and oiher surveyors, had
been hung up against the walls, but the day we arrived they had all
been taken down and deposited elsewhere.
In the evening it was notified tome to be ready to march the next
day at three o'clock. •'. • .
Tuesday, 28th ApriL—In the morning Mtclgares waited on us, and
informed us he was to accompany us some distance on the route.
After bidding adieu to all our friends, marched at a quarter past three
o'clock, and encamped at nine o'clock at night at a;s|)riug. Passed
near Chihuahua a small ridge of mountains;, and then encamped in
a hollow. This day as we were riding along, Malgares Tode up
to me and informed me the General had -given orders, that I
should not be permitted to make any astronomical observation*.
To this I replied, he well Jcncw I never had attempted, 'smoe in the
Spanish dominions, to make any observations vr ha lever. 1'
Q Q
598 TRAVELS THROUGH
Wednesday, 29th April.—Arrived at a settlement at eight o'clock;
plenty of milk, &c. When about to make my journal, Malgares
changed colour, and informed me his orders were, I should not take
notes. At first I felt considerably indignant, and was on the point
of refusing to comply, but thinking fora moment of the many polite-
nesses I had received from him, 1 was induced to bow assent with
a smile, and we proceeded on our route; but had not gone far before
I made a pretext to halt, established my boy as a videt, and
sat down peaceably under a bush and made my notes. This course
I pursued ever after, not without a considerable degree of trouble
to separate myself from the party. Arrived at the fort of St. Paul
at eleven o'clock, situated on a small river of the same name, whose
course is north-east, and south-west, at that time not more than a
mill stream, but sometimes it is three hundred yards wide and im-
passable. Distance advanced thirty miles.
Thursday, 30th April.—Marched at six o'clock, and at eleven ar-
rived at the river Conchos, twenty-four miles; beautiful green trees
on its banks. I was taken very sick at half past ten o'clock. Ar-
^•jvcd at night at a small station on the river Conchos, garrisoned
by a sergeant and ten men from the fort Conchos, fifteen leagues up
the river. Distance advanced forty-three miles. .
Friday, 1st May.—Marched up the Conchos to its confluence with
the river Florida, fifteen leagues from whence we left the former river
entirely, and took up the latter, which bears from the Conchos, south
80°, and 50° cast. On its banks are very flourishing settlements, and
the land is well timbered. There is a poor miserable village at the
confluence. Came ten miles up the Florida to dinner, and rested at
night at a private house. This property or plantation was valued
formerly at three hundred thousand dollars, and extended on the
Florida from the small place at which we slept on the last of April
thirty leagues up the river. Distance advanced forty-five miles.
Finding that a new species of discipline had taken place, and that
the suspicions of my friend M. were much more acute than ever, I
THE INTERIOR Of NEW SPAIN. 299
Conceived it necessary to take some steps to secure the notes I had
taken, which were clandestinely written. In the night I arose, and
after making my men charge all their pieces well, I took my small
books, and made them up in small rolls; then tearing a fine shirt,
to pieces I wrapped it round the papers and put them down in the
barrels of the guns, until we just left room for the tompions, which
were then carefully put in; the remainder we secured about our
bodies under our shirts. This occupied about two hours, but was
effected without discovery, and without, suspicion.
Saturday, 3d May.—INI arched early, and in four hours anda quarter,
arrived at Guaxequillo, situated on the river Florida, where we were
to exchange our friend Malgares for Captain Barelo. He was a
Mexican by birth, born near the capital, and entered as a Cadet at
Guaxequillo near twenty years past, and by his extraordinary merits
(being a Creole) had been promoted to the rank of captain, which
^yas even by himself considered as his ultimate promotion. He
was a gentleman in his manners, generous and frank, and I believe
a good soldier.
•~'
Sunday, 3d May.—At Guaxequillo, the captain gave up his com-
mand to Malgares. At night the offipera gave a ball, at which ap-
peared at least sixty women, ten or a doxenof whom were very hand-
some.
Monday, 4lh May.—Don Hymen Gulco arrived from Chihuahua,
accompanied by a citizen and the friar, who had been arrested by
order of the commandant general, on his way to Mexico for trial.
Tuesday, 5th May.—The party marched with all the spare horses
and baggage.
Wednesday, 6th May Marched at five o'clock ; ascended the river:
four miles, when we left it to our right, and directed our course south
60° east, for eight miles. Our friend Malgares accompanied us a few.
miles, after which we bade an eternal adieu, unless war bring us to-
gether in ;the field of battle, opposed as the most deadly enemies,
••i * '- 'i i Q-C/ a" 'M t'\ • .i. f
300 TRAVELS TIIROUG H
when our hearts acknowledge the greatest friendship. Halted at
ten o'clock, and marched again at four. No water on the road.
Detached a Spanish soldier in search of some, who did not join us
until twelve o'clock at night. Encamped on the open prairies; no
wood or water except what the soldier brought us in gourds. The
mules came up at elevea o'clock at night. Distance advanced
thirty miles.
Thursday, 7th May.—Marched very earl}^; wind fresh from the
south. The punctuality of Captain Barelo as to hours was remarkable.
Arrived at half past nine o'clock at a spring, the first water from
Guaxequillo. The mules did not unload, but continued on nine
miles to a spring at the foot of a mountain, with warm and good
pasturage round it. Mountains on each side all day. Distance
advanced twenty-eight miles.
Friday, 8th May.—Marched five miles due west, through a gap in.
the mountain, tiien turned south 20V east, and more south to a river
about twenty feet wide, with high steep banks. It was now dry, ex-
cept in holes, but sometimes it is full and impassable. Halted at
seven o'clock, and sent on the loaded mules. Marched at five
o'clock; proceeded ten miles, and encamped without water. Dis-
tance advanced eighteen miles.
Saturday, Pth May.—Marched between four and five o'clock, and
arrived at Pelia at eight. This is only a station for a few soldiers,
but is surrounded by mines. At this place are two large warm
springs, strongly impregnated, and this is the water used by the party
who are stationed here. We remained here all day. Captain Barelo
had two beeves killed for his and my men, and charged nothing; to
either. He received orders at this place from the general, to lead us
through the wilderness to Montelovez^ in order that we might not
approximate to the frontiers of Mexico, which we should have done
by the usual route of Paras, &c.
Sunday, 10th May.—Marched past one copper mine, now'diligently
worked. At this place the proprietor had one hundred thousand
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 301
sheep, cattle, horses, &c. Arrived at the Cadena, a house built and
occupied by a priest. It is situated on a small stream at the pass
of the mountains, called by the Spaniards the Door of the Prison^
from its being surrounded by mountains. The proprietor was at
Sumbraretta, six days march distant. This Hacienda was obliged
to furnish accommodations to all travellers. Marched at five
o'clock, and passed the chain of mountains due east twelve miles,
and encamped without water. Distance advanced thirty-one
miles.
Monday,11th May.—Marched at eight o'clock, and arrived at Mau-
perne, a village situated at the foot of mountains of minerals, where
they worked eight or nine mines; but the mass of the people were
naked and starved Avretches. The proprietor of the mines gave us an
elegant repast. Here the orders of Salcedo were explained to me
by the Captain. I replied, that they excited my laughter, as there
were disaffected persons sufficient to serve as guides, should an army
ever come into the country. We pursued our march three mile*
further, to a station where were fig trees and a fruit called by the
French le grain, situated on a little stream which flowed through the
gardens, and formed a terrestrial Paradise; here AVC remained all day
sleeping in the shade of the fig trees, and at night continued our
residence in the garden. We obliged the inhabitants with a ball.
Several persons expressed great anxiety for a relief from their
present distressed state, and a change of government.
Tuesday', 12th May.—I was awakened in the morning by the singing
of the birds and the perfumes of the trees around. I attem pted to send
two of my soldiers to town, but they were overtaken by a dragoon,
and ordered back; they returned, when I again ordered them to go,
and if a soldier attempted to stop them, to take him off his horse, and
flog him. This I did, conceiving it to be the duty of the Captain to
explain his orders relative to me, which he had not done, and I
thought this would bring on an explanation. They were pursued by
302 TRAVELS THROUGH'
a dragoon through the town, who rode after them making use of ill
language. They attempted to catch him, but could not succeed. As I
had mentioned my intentions of sending my men to town after some
stores to Captain Barelo, and he had not made any objections, I con-
ceived-it was acting with duplicity to send men to watch the motions
of my messengers. I determined therefore they should punish the
dragoon, unless he had candour sufficient to explain the reasons for
his not wishing the men to go to the town, to which I should
undoubtedly have acquiesced ; but as he never mentioned the cir-:
cumstance, I remained equally silent, and the affair never interrupted
our harmony.
We marched at five o'clock; came on fifteen miles, and encamped
without water. One mile on this side of the little village the road
branches out into three, the right hand one leads by Paras,
Saltello, &c. being the main road to Mexico and St. Antonio. The
centre which we took, leaves all the villages a little to the right,
passing only some plantations, the left hand one goes immediately
through the mountains to Montelovez, but is dangerous for small
parties on account of the savages. This road is called the route by
the Bolson of Mauperne, and was first travelled by Monsieur de la
Croix (afterwards viceroy of Peru). In passing from Chihuahua
to Texas by this route, you make in seven days what takes fifteen or
twenty by the ordinary road, but it is very scarce of water, and your
guards must either be so strong as to defy the Appaches, or calculate
to escape them by swiftness; for they fill these mountains, from
whence they continually carry on a predatory war against the
Spanish settlements and carravans. We this day passed on to the
territories of the Marquis de San Miguel, who owns the land from
the mountains of the Rio del Norte to some distance into the king-
dom of Old Mexico, and his annual income is immense.
Wednesday, 13th May.—Came on to the river Nasas Rancho de
St..A»tonio, part of the Marquis's estate. My boy and self halted
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. SOS
at the river Nasas to water our horses, having riden on a-head.
We took the bridles from their mouths, in order to enable them
to drink freely, which they cannot do with the Spanish bridles on.
The one I rode had been accustomed to be held by his master in a
peculiar manner when bridled, and would not let me put it on again
for a long time: in the meanwhile my boy's horse ran away, and it
was out of our power to catch him, but when we arrived at the
station we soon had out a number of boys who brought him in with
all his different equipments, which were scattered on the road. This
certainly was a strong proof of their honesty, and did not go unre-
warded. In the evening we gave the inhabitants a ball, according
to custom. We here learnt that one peck of corn per week was the
allowance given a grown person, with three pounds of meat. They
expressed to Robinson their anxious hope that the day would ere
long arrive, when the earth would be divided among their children,
and their sweat and toil no longer be thrown away on others.
Thursday^ 14th May.—Did not march until half past four o'clock,
and about nine o'clock an officer arrived from Sta. Rosa with twenty-
four men and twoAppaches in irons; they were noble looking fellows*
of large stature, and appeared by no means cast down by their misfor-
tunes, although they knew their fate was transportation beyond the sea,
never more to see their friends and relations. Knowing as I did the
cruelty of the Spaniards to these people, I would have liberated
them, had this been in my power. I went near them, and gave them
to understand we were friends, and conveyed to them some articles
which would be of service to them. This day the thermometer
stood at 30' Reaumeur, and 99° 3& Farenheit. The dust and
dryness of the road obliged us to march in the night, when we pro-
ceeded fifteen miles and encamped without water. Indeed this road
which the general obliged us to take, is almost impassable at this
season for want of water, whilst the other affords it plentifully.
Friday, 15th May.—Marched early and came on five miles, when
304 TRAVELS THOROUGH
.we arrived at a pit dug in a hollow, wkich afforded a poor pittance of
muddy water for ourselves and beasts; and here we were again
obliged to remain all day ,in order to travel in the'night, as our
beasts could now enjoy the benefit of water. Left this place at half
ipast five o'clock, and proceeded fifteen miles by eleven o'clock, when
we encamped without water or food for our beasts. Passed a miser-
able burnt up soil. Distance advanced twenty miles.
Saturday, 16th May.—Marched two hours, and arrived at a miser-
able house, where we drew water from a well for all the beasts;
inarched in the evening and made fifteen miles further. We had left
the right hand road on this side of Mauperne, but joined it about
four miles back. Distance advanced fifteen miles.
Sunday, 17th May.—Marched, and at about seven o'clock came in
sight of Paras, which we left on the right, and halted at the Hacienda
of'St. Lorengo, a short 'league to the jiorth of Paras. At the
Hacienda of St. Lorenzo was a young priest who- was extremely
anxious fora change of government, and came to our beds and con-
versed for hours on the subject.
Monday, 1.8th May.—Marched early and came through a mountain-
ous tract of country, but well watered, with houses situated here and
there among the rocks. Joined the main road at the Hacienda of -
belonging to the Marquis de San Miguel; good gardens and fruit,
also a small stream. The mules did not arrive until late at night,
when it had commenced raining.
Tuesday, 19th May.—Did not march until three o'clock, the captain
not being very well. He here determined to take tire main road, not-
withstanding the orders of General Salcedo. Proceeded ten miles.
Met an Irishman, a deserter from Captain Johnston's company; he
returned and came to the camp, begging of me to take him back to
his company, but I would not give him any encouragement; I pre-
sented him with a little change, as be was without .a fortUing,
• Wednesday, 20th May. —Proceeded to the haciend a of Poiloss by nine
THE INTERIOR OF NEW S^AIN. 305
o'clock. This is a handsome place, and the Marquis de San Miguel fre-
quently spends his summer at it, coming out from Mexico in his coach
in ten days. Here we met the Mexican post going to Chihuahua. Don
Hymen, who had left us at Paras, rejoined us here in a coach and six,
in which we came out to a little settlement called the Florida, one
league from Polloss, due north. Distance advanced eighteen miles.
The Hacienda of Polloss is a square inclosure of about three
hundred feet, the building being one story high, but some of the
apartments are very elegantly furnished. In the centre of the
square is a jet d'ean, which casts forth water from eight spouts,
extended from a colossal female form; from this fountain all the
population procure their supply of water. The marquis had like-
wise a very handsome church, which, with its ornaments, cost him
at least twenty thousand dollars; to officiate in this, he maintained
a little stiff superstitious priest. In the rear of the palace (for so it
might be called) was a fish-pond, furnished with immense numbers
of fine fish. The population was about two thousand souls. This
was our nearest point to the city of Mexico.
Thursday, 21st May.—Marched down a water-course, over a rough
and stony road about ten miles, when we left it on the right, and
proceeded eight miles further to a horse range of the marquis, where
he had four of his soldiers as a guarda cabello. Halted at half past
nine o'clock, and afterwards pursued our journey.
Friday, 22d May.—Marched at three o'clock, and proceeded
sixteen miles to a small shed, and in the afternoon to a Rancho,*
eight miles to the left of the main road, near the foot of the
mountain, where was a pond of water, but no houses; some of the
marquis's soldiers were here. We left Polloss mountains on our right
and left, but here there was a cross one which we were to traverse in
the morning. The marquis maintains fifteen hundred troops, to
* A Rancho is a solitary farm. E.
R R
306 TRAVELS THROUGH
protect his vassals and property from the savages. They are all
cavalry, and are as well dressed and armed as the king's, but are
treated by the latter as if vastly their inferiors.
Saturday, 23d May.—Marched early, and came on to the moun-
tain to a spring. Distance advanced fifteen miles.
Sunday, 24th May.—Marched at a good hour, and passed
through the mountain, having scarcely any road; it is called the
Mountain of the Three Rivers. At the thirteenth mile joined the
main road, left to our 'right on the 22d instant, and in one hour after
the main Mexican road from the eastern provinces. From thence
we proceeded north-west to a Kane ho, nine miles from Montelovez,
from whence the Captain sent in an express to announce our ap-
proach.
Monday, 25th May.—In the afternoon Lieutenant Adams,
commandant of the company of Montelovez, arrived in a coach
and six to escort us into the town, where we arrived about five
o'clock, P. M. In the evening visited Captain de Fereda, the
commandant of the troops of Cogquilla, inspector and captain of
the five internal provinces. He was a tall thin man, with a very
military appearance, and presenting an extraordinary instance of gar-
rulity in a Spaniard. Lieutenant Adams, -whb commanded the
place, was the son of an Irish engineer in the service of Spain; he
had married a rich girl of the Passo del Norte, and they lived here in
an elegant style for die country. We put up at his quarters, and
were very hospitably entertained.
Tuesday, 26th May.—Made preparations for marching the
next day. I arose early before any of our people were up, and
walked nearly round the town, and from the hill took a small survey
with my .pencil and a pocket compass, which I always carried with
me. Returned and found the family at breakfast, they having sent
three or four of my men to search for me. The Spanish troops at
this place were remarkably polite, always fronting and saluting .when
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN.
I passed; this I attributed to their commandant, Lieutenant
Adams.
Wednesday, 27th May.—Marched at seven o'clock, after taking
an affectionate leave of Don Hymen, and at half past twelve arrived
at the Hacienda of Don Melcher, situated on the same stream at
Montelovez.
Don Melcher was a man of very large fortune, polite, generouv
and friendly. He had in his service a man who h id deserted from
Captain Lockwood's first regiment of infantry, b> the name of
Pratt. From this man he had acquired a considerable portion of crude
undigested information relative to the United States, and when h«
met with us, his thirst after a knowledge of our laws and institutions
appeared to be insatiable. He caused a fine large sheep to be
killed and given to my men.
Thursday, 28th May.—Marched early and arrived at Enema
Hacienda at ten o'clock; this place was owned by Don Barigo.
When we arrived at the Hacienda of Encina, I found a youth of
eighteen sitting in the house genteely dressed, whom I immediately
recognized from his physiognomy to be an American, and entered
into conversation with him. He expressed great satisfaction at
meeting a countryman, and we had a great deal of conversation.
He sat at a table with us, and partook of a cold collation prepared
of fruits and confectionary, but I was much surprised to learn shortly
after we quitted the table, that he was a deserter from our army.
On which I questioned him, and he replied, that his name was
Griffith; that he had enlisted in Philadelphia, arrived at New Orleans,
and deserted as soon as possible; that the Spaniards had treated
him much better than his own countrymen, and that he should never
return. I was extremely surprised at his insolence, and mortified
that I should have been betrayed into any polite conduct towards
him. I told him it was astonishing he should have the impertinence
R R 2
308 TRAVELS THROUGH
to address himself to me, knowing I was an American officer. He
muttered something about being in a country where he was pro-
tected, &c.; on which I told him if he again opened his mouth to me
I would instantly chastise him, notwithstanding his supposed protec-
tion. He was silent, and I called up one of my soldiers and told him
in his hearing, that if he attempted to mix with them, to turn him
out of company, which they executed by leading him to the door of
their room a short time after, when he was about to enter it.
When dinner was nearly ready I sent a message to the proprietor,
stating, that we assumed no right to say whom he should introduce
to his table, but that we should think it a great indignity offered to a
Spanish officer to attempt, to set him down at the same board with a
deserter from their army; and that if the man who was at the table in
the morning was to make his appearance again, we should decline
eating in his company. He replied that it was accident which pro-
duced the incident of the morning; that he was sorry our feelings
had been -offended, and that he would take care he did not appear
again whilst we were there.
This day was the feast of God; we of course staid to partake of
it, but as it has been frequently described by travellers in catholic
countries, I shall not add to the many repetitions of this class.
This day we passed the last mountains, arid again entered the
great Mississippi valley, it being six months and thirteen days since
we had first come in sight of them. Distance advanced twenty miles.
Friday, 29th May.—Marched at seven o'clock, and came to
the river Millada to a Rancho.
Saturday, 30th May.—Marched at five o'clock, and arrived at
the River Sabine at eight; forded it: marched in the evening at four
o'clock, and at ten encamped at the second ridge without water.
Distance advanced, twenty-seven miles.
Sunday, 31st May.—Marched early, and at nine o'clock ar-
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN, 309
rived at a Rancho and fine running water, course east and west.
Marched eight miles further to a point of woods and encamped.
No water. Distance advanced twenty-seven miles.
Monday, 1st June.—Arrived at the Presidio Rio Grande at
eight o'clock. This place was the position to which our friend Barelo
was ordered, and which had been very highly spoken of to him; but
he found himself miserably mistaken, for it was with the greatest
difficulty we obtained any thing to eat, which mortified him ex-
tremely.
When at Chihuahua, General Salcedo had asked me if I had not
lost a man by desertion, to which I replied in the negative*' He then
informed me, that an American had arrived at the Presidio of Rio
Grande in the last year; that he had at first confined him, but that
he was now released and practising physic, and that he wished me
to examine him on my arrival; I therefore had him sent for. The
moment he entered the room, I discovered he had never received a
liberal education, or been accustomed to polished society. I told
him the reason I had requested to see him was, that I had it in my
power to serve him, if I found him a character worthy of interfer-
ence. He then related the following story: His name was
Martin Henderson; he was born in Rockbridge county, state
of Virginia; had been brought up a farmer, but, coming early to the
state of Kentucky and Tenessee, he had acquired the taste for a
frontier life, and in the spring of 1806, himself and four com-
panions had left the saline in the district of Saint Genevieve, Upper
Louisiana, in order to penetrate through the woods to the province
of Texas; his companions had left him on the White river,
but he had continued on. In swimming some western branch
his horse sunk under him, and it was with difficulty he made the
shore with his gun. Here he waited three or four days until his
horse rose, and he then got his saddle bags; but all his notes on
the country,. courses, &c. were destroyed. He then proceeded on
51ft TRAVELS THROUGH
foot for a few days, when he was met by thirty or forty Osage
warriors, who, on his telling them he was going to the Spaniards,
were proceeding to kiU him, but on his saying he would go to the
Americans, they held a consultation over him; and afterwards seized
ou his clothes, and divided them between them; then his pistols, dirk,
compass, and watch, which they took to pieces and hung on their
noses and ears. They then stripped him naked, and round his body
they found a belt with gold pieces sewed in it; this they also took,
and finally seized on his gun and ammunition. As they were marching
off to leave him in this condition, he followed them, thinking it
better to be killed, than be left in such a state to die of hunger and
cold. The savages after some time halted, and one pulled off an old
pair of leggings, and gave him, others mockinsons, and a third
A buffalo robe, and the one who had carried his heavy rifle, had by
this time become tired of his prize (they never using rifles). They
counted him out twenty-five charges of powder and ball, then sent
two Indians with him, who put him on a war trace, which they said
led to American establishments. As soon as the Indians left him.
he directed his course as he supposed for Saint Antonio: he killed
deer and made himself some clothes. He proceeded on and
expended all his ammunition three days before he struck the grand
road, nearly at the Rio Grande. He further stated, that he had dis.
covered two mines, one of silver and the other of gold, the situation of
which he particularly described; but, that the general had taken the
samples from him. He said he would not attempt to pass himself upon
us for a physician, and hoped as he only used simples, and was care-
ful to do no harm, we would not betray him. He concluded by saying
since his being here he had made (from information) maps, of all the
adjacent country, which had been taken from him.
I had begun strongly to suspect that he was an agent of Burr's,
r.nd was revolving in my mind, whether I should denounce him as
to the commandant, but felt reluctant from an apprehension
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. Sll
tnat he might be innocent, when one of my men came in and in-
formed me, that he was Trainer, who had killed Major Bashier in
the wilderness, between NateheE and Tenessee, when he was his
servant. He had shot him, through the head withhis own pistols, while
taking a nap at noon. The governor of the state and the major's
friends offered a very considerable reward for his apprehension,
which obliged him to quit the neighbourhood; and with an Amazonian
woman, who handled arms and hunted like a savage, he retreated
to the source of the White river, but being routed thence by
Captain Many, of the United States army, and a party of Cherokees,
he and his female companion bore west. She proving to be preg-
nant, was left by him in the desert, and (I was informed) arrived at
the settlement of Red river, but by what means is to me unknown.
The articles and money taken from him by the Osages were the pro-
perty of the deceased major.
I reported the circumstance to Captain Barelo, who had him im-
mediately confined, until the will of governor Cordero was known
who informed me, when at St. Antonio, he would have him sent to
some place of perpetual confinement in the interior. Thus venge*
ance has overtaken the ingrate and homicide, when he least ex-
pected it.
In the 'evening we went to see some dancers on the slack rope,
who were nowise extraordinary in their performances except in lan-
guage, which would almost bring a blush on the cheek of the most
abandoned of the female sex in the United States; but here appear-
ed to be the greatest part of the entertainment, as every sally was
attended with loud and repeated bursts of laughter from the female
part of the audience.
Tuesday, 2d June.—In the day time, while I was endeavouring to
tegulate our watches by my compass, the instant my back was turn-
ed, some person stole it, and I could by no means recover it. I had
strong suspicions that the theft was approved, as the instrument
312 TRAVELS THROUGH
occasioned great dissatisfaction. This day the captain went out to
dine with some monks, who would have thought it profanation to
have us for their guests, notwithstanding the priest of the place had
escorted us round the town, and to all their missions; and we had found
him a very communicative, liberal, and intelligent man. We saw
no resource for dinner, but in the inventive genius of the little
Frenchman, who had accompanied us from Chihuahua, where he
had been officiating one year as cook to the general, and of whom
he gave us many interesting anecdotes. He went off, and in a very
short time returned with table-cloth, plates, and a dinner of three
or four courses, a bottle of wine, and a pretty girl to wait at
table. We enquired by what magic he had brought this about, and
found that he had gone to one of the officers, and notified, that it was
the wish of the commandant he should supply the two Ame-
ricans with a decent dinner, (this we explained to Barelo in the even-
ing and he laughed heartily) which was done, but we took care to
compensate them for their trouble. At five o'clock, we parted from
the captains with regretand assurances of remembrances, and proceed-
ed, escorted by an ensign and guard: came to the Rio Grande, which
we passed, and encamped at a Rancho on the other side. Distance
advanced seven miles.
Wednesday, 3d June.—The mosquettoes, which had commenced the
first night on this side Montelovez, had now become very trouble-
some. This day saw the first horse-flies, and some wild horses.
Proceeded to the open plain, where there was no water. Distance
advanced thirty miles.
Thursday, 4th June.—Came on sixteen miles to a pond and dined:
great sign of wild horses in the afternoon. Proceeded to a river.
Distance advanced thirty-six miles. •
Friday, 5th June.—After loosing two horses in ferrying, we crossed
and continued our route. Passed two herds of wild horses, which
merely left the road for us. Halted at a pond, on the left of the road
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 313
fifteen miles on, where we saw the first oak since we entered Mexico,
and this was of the scrub kind. Passed many deer yesterday and to day.
Came to a small creek at night, where we met a party of the com-
pany of St. Fernandez, returning from the line. Distance advanced
thirty-one miles.
Saturday, 6th June.—Marched early, and met several parties of
troops returning from Texas, where they had been sent to reinforce,,
when our troops were near the line. Observed immense numbers of
cross roads made by the wild horses. Killed a wild hog, which on
examination I found to be very different from the tame breed, being
smaller, of a brown colour, long hair, and sljort legs; they are to be
found in all parts between Red river and the Spanish settlements*
Passed an encampment made by the Lee Panis. Met one of that
nation with his wife. In the afternoon struck the wood land, which
was the first we had been' in from the time we had left the Osage
nation. Distance advanced thirty-nine miles.
Sunday, 7th June.—Came on fifteen miles to the river Mariana,
the line between Texas and Bogquilla, a pretty little stream;
from thence in the afternoon to St. Antonio. We halted at the
mission of St. Joseph, and were received in a friendly manner
by the priest of the mission and others. We were met out of the
town about three miles by governors Cordcro and Ilcrrara, in a
coach. We repaired to their quarters, where we were received like
their children. Cordero informed me that he had discretionary
orders, as to the manner of rny going out of the country; that he
therefore wished me to choose my time, mode, £c. and that any sum
of money I might want was at my service; that in the mean time
Robinson and myself would make his quarters our residence; and that
he had caused to be vacated a house immediately opposite for my
men. In the evening his levee was attended by a crowd of officers
and priests. After supper we went to the public square, where
might be seen the two gbvernors joined in a dance with people who
s s
314 TRAVELS THROUGH
in the day time would approach them with reverence and awe. We
were here introduced to the sister of Lieutenant Malgares's wife, who
was one of the finest women we saw, and was married to a Captain
Ugarte, to whom we had letters of introduction.
Monday, 8th June.—Remained at St. Antonio.
Tuesday, pth June.—A large party dined at the governor
Cordero's, who gave as his first toast, The President of the United
States. I returned the compliment by toasting, His Catholic
Majesty: these were followed by General Wilkinson, and one
of the company then gave, These Gentlemen, their safe and happy
arrival in their own country, their honourable reception, and the
continuation of the good understanding which exists between the two
countries.
Wednesday, 10th June.—A large party at the governor's to dinner:
he gave as a toast, his companion Herrara.
Thursday, 11th June.—Preparing to march to-morrow. We this even-
ing had a conversation with the two governors, wherein they exhibited
an astonishing knowledge of the political character of our executive;
the local interests of the different parts of the union; and the military
disposition of General Wilkinson; and concluded with a high colour-
ed picture of * * * *, to whose querulous disposition, they attri-
buted the late disputes between the two governments on the
frontiers. As I did not know that gentleman, I could only reply
generally, that I thought it impossible, an agent of our government,
standing in the situation of the * * * *, would dare to blow up
the flames of hostility between the two countries, knowing as he
must the general disposition which the United States has always ex-
hibited to pacific measures.
Friday, 12th June.—One of the captains from the kingdom of
Leon having died, we were invited to attend the burial: accompanied
the two generals in their coach, where we had an opportunity of
viewing the solemnity of the interment, agreeably to the ritual of
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 315
the Spanish church, attended with the military honours, which were
conferred on the deceased by his late brethren in arms. Governor
Cordero gave the information of rny intended expedition to the com-
mandant general as early as July, the month I took my departure •
he had received his intelligence via Natchez.
Saturday, 13th June.—This morning there were marched two hun-
dred dragoons for the sea-coast to look out for the English, and that
evening Colonel Cordero was to have proceeded to join them. We
marched at seven o'clock, Governor Cordero taking us out in his
coach about two leagues, accompanied by Father M'Guire, Doctor
Zerbon, &c. It may not be improper to mention here, something
of the two latter gentlemen, who certainly treated us with all
imaginable attention while at St. Antonio. The former was an
Irish priest, who formerly resided on the coast above Orleans, and
was noted for his hospitality and social qualities. On the cession of
Louisiana, lie followed the standard of the " king his master," who
never suffers an old servant to be neglected. He received at Cuba
an establishment, as chaplain of the mint at Mexico, from whence
the instability of human affairs carried him to St. Antonio. He was
a man of chaste classical taste, observation, and research. Doctor
Zerbon formerly resided at Natchez, but in consequence of pecu..
niary embarrassments emigrated into the Spanish territories. Being
a young man of a handsome person and insinuating address, he had
obtained the good will of Governor Cordero, who had conferred on
him an appointment in the king's hospital, and many other advan-
tages by which he might have made a fortune. But he had recently
committed many great indiscretions, by which he .had nearly lost the
favour of Colonel Cordero; but whilst we were there he was treated
with attention. We took a friendly adieu of Governor Herrara, and
our other friends at St. Antonio.
I will here attempt to pourtray a faint resemblance of the charac-
ters of the two governors, whom we found at St. Antonio; but to
s s 2
316 TRAVELS THROUGH
whose super-excellent qualities it would require the pen of a master
to do justice. Don Antonio Cordero was fifty years of age, about five
feet ten inches in height, fair complexion, and blue eyes: he wore
his hair turned back, and in every part of his dress was eligibly
written "the soldier." He yet possessed an excellent constitution,
and a body which appeared to be neither impaired by the fatigues of
the various campaigns he had made, «or disfigured by the numerous
wounds received from the enemies of his king. He was one of the
select officers who had been chosen by the court of Madrid, to be
sent to America about thirty-five years since, to discipline and orga-
nize the Spanish provincials, and had been -employed in all the
various kingdoms and provinces of New Spain, and through the
parts which we explored He was universally beloved and respected,
and when I pronounce him by far the most popular man in the inter-
nal provinces, I risk nothing by the assertion. He spoke the Latin
and French languages well, was generous, gallant, brave, and sincere-
ly attached to his king and country. These numerous qualifications
Lave advanced him to the rank of .colonel of cavalry, and governor
of the provinces of Bogquilla and Texas. His usual residence was
Montelovez, which he had greatly embellished; but since our taking
possession of Louisiana, he had removed to St. Antonio, in order
to be nearer the frontier, to be able to apply the remedy to any evil
which might arise from the collision of our lines.
Don Simon de Jlerrara is about five feet eleven inches high, has a
sparkling black eye, dark complexion and hair. He was bom in the
Canary Islands, served ip the infantry in France, Spain, and Flanders,
and speaks the French language well, and a little of the English.
lie is engaging in his conversation with his" equals; polite and ob-
liging to his inferiors, and in all his actions one of the most gallant
and accomplished men I ever knew. He possesses a great know-
ledge of mankind, from his experience in various countries and
societies, and knows how to employ the genius of each of his subor-
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. SI?
dinates to advantage. He had been in the United States during
the presidency of General Washington, and had been introduced to
that hero, of whom he spoke in terms of exalted veneration. He is
now lieutenant-colonel of infantry and governor of the kingdom of
New Leon. Mis seat of government is Montelrey; and probably
if ever a chief was adored by his people rt is Herrara. When his
time expired last he immediately repaired to Mexico, attended by
three hundred of the most respectable people of his district, who
carried with them the sighs, tears, and prayers of thousands that he
might be continued in that government. The viceroy thought
proper to accede to their wishes pro-tempore, and the king lias since
confirmed his nomination. When I saw him he had been about one
year absent, during which time the citizens of rank in Montelrey had
not suffered a marriage or baptism to take place in any df their fami-
lies, waiting until their common father could be there to consent, and
give joy to the occasion by his presence. What greater proof could
be given of their esteem and k>ve? In drawing a parallel between
the two friends, I should say, that Cordero was the man of the
greatest reading, Herrara of the world. Cordero has lived all his
life a bachelor, Herrara married an English lady in early youth at
Cadiz, who, by her suavity of manners, makes herself as much be-
loved and esteemed by the ladies as her noble husband is by the
men. By her he'has several children, one now an officer in the ser-
vice of his royal master. But the two friends agree perfectly in one
point, their hatred of tyranny of every kind, and in a secret deter-
mination never to see that flourishing part of the new world, subject
to any European lord, except him, whom their honour .and loyalty
bind them to defend with their lives and fortunes.
Before I close this subject, it may not be improper to state, that
we owe to Governor Herrara's prudence, that we are not now engaged
in a war with Spain. This will be explained by the following anec-
dote, which he related in the presence of his friend Cordero, and
318 TRAVELS THROUGH
was confirmed by him: When the difficulties commenced on the
Sabine, the commandant general and the viceroy consulted each
other, and they mutually determined to maintain (what they de-
manded) the dominions of their master inviolate. The viceroy
therefore ordered Herrara to join Cordero with thirteen hundred men,
and both the viceroy and General Salcedo, ordered Cordero to cause
our troops to be attacked, should they pass the Rio Onde. These
orders were positively reiterated to Herrara, the actual commanding
officer of the Spanish army on the frontiers, and gave rise to the many
messages which he sent to General Wilkinson, when he was advancing
with our troops; but finding they were not attended to, he called a
council of war on the question, to attack or not? when it was given
as their opinion, that they should immediately commence a preda-
tary warfare, but avoid a general engagement. Yet, notwithstand-
ing the orders of the viceroy, the commanding general, Governor
Cordero, and the opinion of his officers, he had the firmness or teme-
rity to enter into the agreement with General Wilkinson, which at
present exists relative to our boundaries on that frontier. On his
return he was received with coolness by Cordero, and they both
made their communication to their superiors. Until an answer
was received (said Herrara) I experienced the most unhappy period
of my life, conscious I had served my country faithfully, at the same
time I had violated every principle of military duty. At length
the answer arrived, and what was it, but the thanks of the viceroy
and the commandant general, for having pointedly disobeyed their
orders, with assurances that they would represent his services in ex-
alted terms to the king. What could have produced this change of
sentiment is to me unknown, but the letter was published to the
army, and confidence again restored between the two chiefs and the
troops.
Our company now consisted of Lieutenant John Echararria, who
commanded the escort, Captain Eugene Marchon, of New Orleans,
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN, 319
and Father Jose Angel Cabaso, who was bound to the catnp at Or
near the Trinity, with a suitable proportion of soldiers. We pro-
ceeded sixteen miles to a place called the Beson, where we halted
until the loads came up. Marched again at four o'clock, and
arrived at the river of Guadelupe at eight o'clock at night. Distance
advanced thirty miles.
Sunday, 14th June.—When we left St. Antonio, every thing
appeared to be in a flourishing and improving state, owing to the
examples and encouragement given to industry, politeness, and
civilization, by their excellent Governor Cordero and his colleague
Herrara; and also to the large body of troops maintained at that
place, in consequence of the difference existing between the United
States and Spain. Came on to the St. Mark in the morning; in the
afternoon, proceeded fifteen miles further, but were late, owing
to our having taken the wrong road. Distance advanced thirty
miles.
Monday, 1oth June.—Marched twenty miles jn the morning,
to a small pond, which, in dry seasons, has no water; where we
hailed. Here commenced the oak timber, having seen only mus-
queet from St. Antonio. Prairie like the Indian territory. In the
afternoon, came on six miles further to a creek, where we encamped
early. Distance advanced twenty-six miles.
Tuesday, 16th June.—Marched early, and at eight o'clock
arrived at Red river; here was a small Spanish station, and several
lodges of Tancards, tall, handsome men, but without exception,
the most naked savages I ever yet saw They complained much of
their situation. In the afternoon, passed over hilly stony land, with
pine timber; encamped on a small run. Distance advanced twenty-
six miles. Killed one deer.
Wednesday, 17th June.—Came on at nine o'clock to a large en-
campment of Tancards, containing more than forty lodge*; their
TRAVELS THROUGH
poverty was as remarkable as their independence^ although posses-
sing, immense herds of horses, &c. 1 gave a Camanche and Tancard
each a silk handkerchief, and a recpmmendation to the com-
mandant at Natchitoches. In the afternoon, marched for three
hours, and encamped on a hill, at a creek on the right hand side of
the road. Met a large herd of mules, escorted by four soldiers.
The lieutenant took some money from them, which they had in
charge. Distance advanced thirty miles.
Thursday, 18th June.—Rode on until half past ten o'clock,
when we arrived at the river Brasses, after having travelled twenty-
five miles. Here is a stockade guard of one corporal and six men,
and a ferry boat. Swam our horses over, one was drowned, and
several others near it, owing to their striking each other with their
feet. After having crossed the river, we proceeded about two miles
on this side of a bayon, called the Little Brasses, which is only a
branch of the other, and makes an impassable swamp at certain
seasons between them. Distance advanced thirty-one miles.
Friday, 19th June.—Came on through prairies and woods
alternately, twenty miles, to a small creek, Corpus Christi; well
wooded, rich land. In the afternoon, proceeded ten miles, and
passed a creek, which in high water is nearly impassable for four
miles. Encamped about one mile on this side, on high land to
the right of the road; met the mail, Indians, and others. Distance
advanced thirty miles.
Saturday, 20th June.—Came on sixteen miles in the morning;
passed several herds of mustangs, or wild horses. Good laud, with
occasionally ponds and small dry creeks, prairie and woods alter-
nately. , It rained considerably: we halted to dry our baggage long
before night. Distance advanced twenty miles.
Sunday, 21st June.—Came on to the river Trinity by eight
o'clock. Here were stationed two captains, two lieutenants, and
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 321
three ensigns, with nearly one hundred men, all sick; one scarcely
able to assist the other. Met a number of runaway negroes, and also
some French and Irishmen. Received information of Lieut. Wil-
kinson's safe arrival. Crossed all our horses and baggage without
much difficulty. Distance advanced twenty miles.
Monday, 22d June.—Marched the mules and horses in the
forenoon, but did not depart ourselves until three o'clock P. M.
Father Jose Angel Calosos separated from us at this place, for the
post to which he was destined. Passed thick woods, and a few small
prairies with high rich grass. Sent a despatch to Nacogdoches.
Distance advanced twenty-two miles.
Tuesday, 23d June.—Came on twenty miles in the forenoon,
to a small creek of standing water; good land and well timbered.
Met a sergeant from Necogdoches. In the afternoon made twentv
O *-
miles, and crossed the river Natchez, running north-west and south-
cast, twenty yards wide. It was belly deep to the horses at that
time, but sometimes it is impassable. Two miles on this side, en-
camped on a hill, in a little prairie. Mules and loads arrived at
twelve o'clock. The sandy soil and pine timber began again to ap-
pear this afternoon, but the land near the river is good. Distance
advanced forty miles.
Wednesday,24th June.—The horses came up this morning; lost six
over night. We marched early, and after proceed ing fifteen miles came
to the riVer Angelina, about the width of the Natchez, running north
and south, with good land on its banks. Two miles farther was a set-
tlement of Barr and Davenport, where were three of our deserters.
One mile further, two houses, where we halted for dinner. Marched
at four o'clock, and at half past eight arrived at Nacogdoches, where
we were politely received by the adjutant and inspector, and Cap-
tains Herrara, Davenport, &c. This part of the country is well
watered, but a sandy, hilly soil, with pine, scrub oak, &c. Dis-
tance advanced thirty-seven miles.
T T
323 TRAVELS THROUGH
Thursday, 25th June—Spent in reading gazettes from the
United States, &c. A large party at the adjutant and inspector's
tu dinner. First toast, "The President of the United States.
Second, The King of Spain. Third, Governors Herrava and
Cordero."
Friday, 26th June.—Made preparations to march the next
day. Saw an old acquaintance; also Lorrieniers's son-in-law, from
the district of Cape Jerardeau. Dined at the commandant's, and
spent the evening at Davenport's.
Saturday, 2?th June.—Marched after dinner, but proceeded
only twelve miles. Was escorted by Lieutenant Guodiana and a,
military party. Mr. Davenport's brother-in-law, who was taking
in some money, also acccompanied us. Don Francis Viana, adju-
tant and inspector of the internal provinces, who commanded at
Nacogdoches, is an, old and veteran officer, and was one of those
who came to America at the same time with Colonel Cordero; but
possessing a mind of frankness, he unfortunately spoke his opinions
too freely in some instances, which, finding its way to court, pre-
vented his promotion. But he is highly respected by his superiors,
and looked up to as a model of military conduct by his inferiors.
He unfortunately does not possess flexibility sufficient to be useful
in the present corrupted state of the Spanish kingdoms. He is the
officer who caused Major Sparks and Mr. Freeman to rcturn from
their expedition on the Red river.
Sunday, 28th June.—Marched early, and at nine o'clock crossed
the river called Toyac, from whence we pushed on, in order to ar-
rive at the house of a Frenchman, miles distant from the
Sabine. We stopped at a house on the road,, whece the lieutenant
informed me an American, by the name of Johnson lived, but
was surprised to find lie had crossed the line with his family,to-
gether with a French family from his neighbourhood. When we be-
gan conversing with them, they seemed much, alarjned', thmking
THE INTERIOR OP NEW SPAIN.
had come to examine them, and expressed great attachment to the
.Spanish government, but were somewhat astonished to find I was
an American officer; and oil my companion stepping out, expressed
themselves in strong terms of hatred of his nation. I excused them
•for. their weakness, and gave them a caution.
\. The land here is fme, and well watered and timbered, with
hickory, oak, sugar maple, &c. Distance advanced forty miles.
Monday, 29th June.—Our baggage and horses came up about
ten o'clock, when we despatched them on: marched ourselves at
two o'clock, and arrived at the.river Sabiae by five. Here we sn\v
the cantonment of the Spanish troops, when commanded by Colonel
Herrara, in the late affair between the two governments. Crossed the
Sabine river, and proceeded about one league on this side to a little
prairie, where we encamped. Parted with Lieutenant Guodiana,
and our Spanish escort. And here I think proper to bear testimony
to the politeness, civility, and attention of all the officers, who at
different periods, and in diflerent provinces, commanded my escort;
but in a particular manner, to Malgares and Barelo, who appeared
studious to please, and accommodate as much as lay in their power >
and also to the obliging mild dispositions evinced in all instances by
their rank and file.
On this side of the-Sabiae; I went up to a house, where I found
ten or fifteen Americans hovering near the line, in order to embrace
an. opportunity of canning on some illicit commerce with the
Spaniards, who, on their side, were equally eager. Here we found
Thorpe and Sea, who had been old sergeants in General AVaync's
army. Distance advanced fiflecij miles.
.Tuesday, 30th June.— Marched earty, and came on fifteen
miles to a house on a small creek, where lived a Dutch, family,
named Faulk, where we left a small roan horse which had given
out. Marched twelve miles further to a large bayon, where there
had been an encampment of our troops, which I recognized by its
T T 2
324 TRAVELS THROUGH
form, and took pleasure in imagining the position of the general's
marque, and the tents of my different friends and acquaintances.
Distance advanced twenty-eight miles.
Wednesday, 1st July.—Finding that a horse of Doctor Robinson's,
which had come all the way from Chihuahua, could not proceed,
I was obliged to leave him here. Yesterday and to-day passed many
Chactaws, whose clothing, furniture, &c. evidently marked the
superiority of the situation of those who bordered on our frontiers,
to those of the naked half-starved Indians whom we found hang-
ing round the Spanish settlements. Came on, passed a string of
huts, supposed to be built by our troops; and at a small run, a for-
tified camp, but a half mile from the hill, where anciently stood
the village Ad yes. We proceeded on to a spring, where we halted
for our loads; and finding the horses much fatigued, and not able
to proceed, left them and the baggage, and continued our journey.
We arrived at Natchitoches, about four o'clock P. M. and were
affectionately received by Colonel Freeman, Captains Stony and
Woolstoncraft, Lieutenant Smith, and all the officers of the post.
Language cannot express the gaiety of my heart, when I once
more beheld the standard of my country waved aloft! All hail,
cried I, the ever-sacred name of country, in which is embraced
that of kindred, friends, and every other tie which is dear to the
soul of man!
Z. M. PIKE.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 325
GEOGRAPHICAL, STATISTICAL, AND GENERAL
OBSERVATIONS
ON THE INTERIOR PROVINCES OF NEW SPAIN, FROM LOUISIANA
TO THE VICE-ROYALTY, AND BETWEEN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, THE
GULPH OF CALIFORNIA, AND THE ATLANTIC OCEAN.
1 HE kingdom of New Spain, lies between the 16°. and 44°. N.
latitude, and 86*. and HQo. W. longitude: it is divided into two
separate and independent governments, and these again into va-
rious subdivisions.
In the Vice-royalty is included the administration of Guadalaxara,
which lies between 18«. Stf. and 24°. 30'. N. latitude, and 104*. and
109°. W. longitude, and is bounded on the south and west by the
south sea; on the north by the province of Biscay, and Sinaloa; on
the north-cast, by the administration of Zacatecas; on the east, by
the administration of Guanaxuato; and on the south-east, by that of
Valladolid; extending three hundred and fifty miles in length, from
north-west to south-east, and two hundred and fifty in width east and
west. The population may be estimated at one hundred thousand.
This is one of the most luxuriant and rich administrations in the
Vice-royalty. It is intersected from east to wes£ by the great river
De Santiago, which receives most of its waters from lake Chapala.
Guadalaxara the capital, situated in latitude 20°. 50'. N. longitude
105. W. was built by one of the German family in 1551, and in
1570, the bishopric was removed from Campostella to that place.
It is the seat of the audience of Guadalaxara, which includes the
326 GEOGRAPPIICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
administrations of Guadalaxara and of Zacatecas. The population
of this city may be estimated at seventy-five thousand.*
The administration of Valladolid lies between 18°. 12', and
21°. 10'. N. latitude, and 102'. and 105°. W. longitude; being
bounded on the south by the South Sea and part of Mexico; on
the east and north-east by the latter administration; and on the
north by that of Guanaxuato. Its greatest length from north-east
to south-west is two hundred and thirty miles, and its greatest width
east and west one hundred and ninety miles. The population may
be estimated at three hundred and sixty thousand. Its capital of
the same name is situated-in about 20*. N. latitude, 103°. 25'. W.
longitude. Population unknown.-f.
The administration of Mexico, lies between 16°. SO', ahd 21°. 30'.
•N. latitude, 99°. and 105°. W. longitude, and is bounded on the south
by the South Sea, oil the east by the governments of Puebla and
Vera Cruz, on the north by that of St. Luis, and on the M^est by Valla-
dolid and Guanaxuato. Its greatest length north and south may be
three hundred and sixty miles, and its greatest "width, which is on the
Westtirn Ocean, is two hundred miles. The population may be esti-
mated at one million five hundred thousand souls.* The capital
(which is that of tlte wholfe kuigdom) is Mexico, any description ot'
which would be superfluous; I will therefore only say, from everj
information I could obtain from persons who .had resided in' it for
years, that it d«es not contain above ivro hundred thousand. Its
being the residence of the Vice-roy, (whose court is more splendid
than- that of Madrid,) its central position as to the two ports of
'—_^_j-—— ~——.- ,.* -i,—. . :—, 1 '•—
* Humboldt states the population of die administration for the year 1^03, at six hun-
dred and thirty thousand five hundred, and of the city nineteen thousand five hundred.
1*01. Ess. Vol.' ii. pp: 227. 230.' !E.
• f .Administration-,•-three humhted and sffventy-sibc thousand four hundred; city, eigh-
teen .thousand, Pol, Ess, YolU. >n.,£9^ and.224, ,K.
£ According to,Huinboldt, one million; ijve hundred and ten thousand eight hundred;
of the capital, one hundred and eleven thousand and thirty-seven. Vol. ii. pp. 3. and
183. E.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 327
Acapulco and A7 era Cruz, together with the rich and luxuriant vale
which surrounds it, will give to Mexico, whenever the Spanish
Americans burst the present bonds of slavery in which they are en-
thralled, and become a free, great, and happy people, all those ad-
vantages which great wealth, a large population, and a commanding
situation, concentrate; and assuredly render it one of the greatest
cities in the world. In point of population, it is now in the second
rank, but in beauty, riches, magnificence, and splendour, it aspires
to the first.
The administration ofOaxacalies between 16*.and 18". N. latitude,
and 98°. and 112°. AV. longitude; being bounded on the south by
the South Sea, on the west by the government of Puebla, on the
north by Mexico and Vera Cruz, and on the east by .the province
of Guatemala. Its greatest length east and west is two hundred
and thirty miles, and its width north and south one hundred and
seventy-five miles. The population may be estimated at five hun-
dred and twenty-thousand souls.* The capital is Oaocaca in IT^
N. latitude, 96°. 25". W. longitude.
The administration of Vera Cruz lies between 17*; aftd2fi*. N.
tude, 98*. and 101°. AV. longitude, and is bounded on the north and east
by the Gulf of Mexico, on the south by Oaxaca, on the west by Piiebla
and Mexico. Its greatest length north-west and south-east is four
hundred and thirty miles, and its width cast and-west hot more than
sixty miles. The population may be estimated, at two hundred and
twenty thousand. The capital, is Vera Cruz, in i9?°. 1$. N. latitude*
98°. 30'. W. longitudey which, i» the sole pott of entry for all «h«
kingdom on the Atlantic Ocean, as that of Acapulco is on the jyveg-
tern. Its population may be estimated at thirty thousand souls.t
This city was sacked by the 'English on the 17di May, ,1683,. since
—, —_ . , '- .i'
* The administration in 1803, five hundred and thirty-fotir thousand eight hundrecT;
the capital in 1792, twenty-four thousand. Humb. Vol. ii. pp. 235. and 242. E.
f Administration in 1803, one hundred and fifty-six thousand; city, sixteen thou-
sand. Humb. Vol. ii. pp. 250. and 267. E.
528 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
which the works for its defence have been made so very strong as
almost to bid defiance to any attack from the sea.
The administration of Puebla lies between 16°. and 20°. N. latitude,
and 100°. and 102°. W. longitude; and is bounded on the south by the
South Sea, on the east by Oaxaca and Vera Cruz, and on the north
and west by Mexico, extending nearly three hundred miles in its
greatest length from north to south, and one hundred and twenty
in its greatest width from east to west. The population may be es-
timated at eight hundred thousand souls. Its capital is the city of
La Puebla, in 19°' 12'. N. latitude, 100°. 50'. W. longitude, with
an estimated population of eighty thousand souls.*
The administration of Guanaxuato, lies between 21°. 30'. and
22°. 3(X. N. latitude, and 103°. and 105°. W. longitude; bounded on
the south by Valladolid, on the east by Mexico, on the north by
St. Luis Zacatecas, and on the west by Guadalaxara. Its greatest
extent from north to south is seventy-five miles, and from east to
west eighty-five. The population may be estimated at five hundred
thousand souls.t Its capital city is Guanaxuato, in latitude 21° N.
longitude 103°. W.
The administration of Zacatecas lies between 21°. 20'. and 24".
12'. N. latitude, 103°. and 105°. 30'. W. longitude; bounded on
the north by the internal province of Biscay, on the east by St. Luis,
on the west by Guadalaxara, and on the south by Guanaxuato.
Its greatest length is two hundred and ten miles north and south,
and its greatest width a hundred and forty-five from east to west.
Its population may be estimated at two hundred and fifty thousand
* The administration eight hundred and thirteen thousand three hundred; the capital,
sixty-seven thousand eight hundred. Humb. Vol. ii. pp. 190. and 200. E.
f Administration, five hundred and seventeen thousand three hundred; capital, forty-
one thousand. Humb. Vol. ii. pp. 204. and 206. E.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 329
two hundred and fifty souls.* The capital Zacatecas, stands in 23°
north latitude and 104Q W. longitude.
The administration of St. Luis Potosi, lies between 21° 20' and 28° 50'
N. latitude, and 99° and 102° W. longitude; and includes Texas and
St. Ander. It is bounded on the north by New Leon, on the east
by the province of St. Ander, on the south by Guanaxuato and
Mexico, and on the west by Zacatecas. Its greatest length from
east to west is a hundred and seventy miles. The population may
be estimated at three hundred and eleven thousand five hundred
souls. Its capital, St. Luis de Potosi, with a population of sixty
thousand-)-, stands in 22Q N. latitude, 103° W. longitude, and was
founded in 1568.
The province of Neuvo San Ander, is bounded on the north by
the province of Texas, on the west by Neuvo Leon and Cogquilla,
on the south by St. Luis, and on the east by the Atlantic ocean.
From north to south it is about five hundred miles in length, but from
east to west not more than one hundred and fifty. Its population
may be estimated at thirty-eight thousand souls. The capital New
San Ander, is on the river of that name about forty miles from the
sea, in 23° 45' N. latitude, and 101? W. longitude.
The kingdom of New Leon is bounded on the east by New San
Ander, on the north by Cogquilla, on the west by Biscay, and on
the south by St. Luis and Zacatecas. Its greatest length north and
south is two hundred and fifty miles. Its population may be esti-
mated at thirty thousand souls. Its capital Montelrey is situated
on the head waters of Tiger river, which discharges itself into
the Gulph of Mexico. The city of Montelrey, contains about
* Administration, one hundred and fifty-three thousand and three hundred; capital,
thirty-three thousand. Humb. vol. ii, pp. 233, 234. E.
f The Administration, three hundred and thirty-four thousand nine hundred; capital,
twelve thousamd. Humb. vol. ii, p. 271 and £72. E.
uu
330 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
eleven thousand, and is the seat of the Bishop Don Dio Premiro,.
who visited the port of Natchitoches, when commanded by Capt.
Turner of the 2d United States regiment infantry. His episcopal
jurisdiction extends over New San Ander, New Leon, Cogquilla
and Texas, and his salary is equal to one hundred thousand dollars
per annum. Montelrey is situated in 26° N. latitude, and 102°
W. longitude. There are many and rich mines near this city, from
whence I am informed are taken one hundred mules' load of
bullion in silver and gold monthly, which may be presumed to be
not more than three-fifths of what is drawn from the mines, there
being many persons who prefer never getting their metal coined,
as it is then not so easily ascertained what they are worth, which is
an important secret in all despotic governments.
The foregoing nine administrations, (or intendancies,) the king-
dom of Leon, and the province of Nuevo San Ander, are included
in the two audiences of Guadalaxara and Mexico, and form I be-
lieve the whole political government of the Vice-roy. But I am
not positive whether his jurisdiction does not include the audience
of Guatemala, which lies to the south and mcludes the province
proper of that name; that of Chiapa, Yucatan, Veragua, Costa
Rica, and Honduras. An audience is the high court of appeals, in
which the Vice-roy presides, and has two votes; it is intended as a
check on his power and authority. The administrations are go-
verned by intendants, who are officers of high rank, and always
Europeans.
The longitude given is from the meridian of Paris. In the gene-
ral view of New Spain, I shall take some notice of the manners,
modes, force, &c. of the Vice-royalty; but as I do not pretend to
be correctly informed respecting this quarter of the kingdom, and
there being so many persons who have given statements on these
heads, I shall confine my remarks principally to the internal pro-
vinces through which I passed, and on which I made my observations.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 331
INTERNAL PROVINCES.
NEW MEXICO lies between 30° 3& and440° N. latitude, and 104*
and 108° W. longitude, and is the most northern province of the king-
dom of New Spain. It extends on the north-west into an undefined
limit; it is bounded on the north and east by Louisiana, on the
south by Biscay and Cogquilla, and on the west by Senora and Cali-
fornia. Its length is unknown, its breadth may be one hundred
miles, but the inhabited part is not more than four hundred miles
in length, and fifty in breadth, lying along the river del Norte, from
the 31Q 30' to the 37° N. latitude. But in this space there is a
desert of more than two hundred and fifty miles.
Air and climate.—No person accustomed to reside in the tem-
perate climate of the 36° and 37° N. latitude in the United States,
can form any idea of the piercing cold experienced in that parallel
in New Mexico. But the air is serene, not subject to damps
or fogs, as it rains but once a year and some years not at all: it is
a mountainous country, and the grand dividing ridges which sepa-
rate the waters of the Rio del Norte from those of California, bor-
dering it on the line of its western limits, and which are covered in
some places with eternal snows, give a keenness to the air, which
would never be calculated on in a temperate zone.
Timber and Plains.—The cotton-tree is the sole production of this
province, except some scrubby pines and cedars at the foot of the
mountains; the former borders the banks of the Rio del Norte, and
its tributary streams. All the rest of the country presents to the eye
a barren wild of poor land, scarcely to be improved by culture, and
appears only capable of producing a scanty subsistence for the
animals, which live on a few succulent plants and herbage.
Mines, Minerals, and Fossils.—There are no mines known in the
province, except one of copper, situated in a mountain on the
u u 2
332 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
western side of the Rio Del Norte in latitude 34° north. It is
wrought, and produces twenty thousand mule loads of copper an-
nually, furnishing that article for the manufactories of nearly all
the internal provinces. It contains gold, but not quite in sufficient
quantity to pay for its extraction, consequently it has not been pur-
sued. There is near Santa Fe in some of the mountains a stratum
of talc, which is so large and flexible, as to admit of being sub-
divided into thin flakes, of which the greatest proportion of the
houses in Santa F6 and all the villages to the north have their window-
lights made.
Rivers. The river Del Norte lakes its rise in the mountains,
which give birth to the head waters of California, the Plate, Pierre,
Jaune of the Missouri, and Arkansaw of the Mississippi, in 40°
north latitude, and 110° west longitude, (from Paris). Its course
from its source to the Gulph of Mexico, may be by its meanders
estimated at two thousand miles; passing through the provinces of
New Mexico, part of Biscay, Cogquilla, and New San Ander, where
it falls into the Gulph in 26° north latitude. It cannot in any part of
its course be termed a navigable stream, owing to sand bars in the
flat country, and mountains in the upper part, with which its
course is interrupted; but small boats might ascend as high as the
Presidio De Rio Grande, in Cogquilla, and it might be navigable for
canoes in various parts of its course. Even in the mountains above
Santa F6 it afforded amply sufficient water for that species of
navigation, and more than appeared to be flowing in its bed in the
plains. This must be attributed to the numerous canals and the dry
sandy soil, through which the river takes its course, and where much
of the water that flows from the mountains is obsorbed and lost. In
the province of New Mexico it is called the Rio Del Norte, below it
is termed the Rio Grande, but in no instance did I hear it called the
Rio Bravo, as many of our ancient maps designated it. There are also
in the limits of this province to the west, the rivers San Rafael, San
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 333
Xavier, river de los Dolores, also de los Anamas or Nabajos; all of
which unite and form the Great Rio Colorado of California; the first
two take their sources in the same mountains as the Rio Del Norte,
but on the western side.
The river Colorado by its meanders may be about one thousand
miles in length, from its sources to its entrance into the head of the
Gulph of California in the 33° north latitude. It has been repre-
sented to me by men of information and research, to be navigable
for three hundred miles above the gulf for square rigged vessels.
By this river and the Arkansaw, the best communication-
might be established between the two-oceans in North America.
There are represented to be various, numerous, and warlike nations
of Indians on its banks. Through the whole of its course its shores
are entirely destitute of timber, and I was informed that for three
hundred miles there was not a tree ten inches in diameter.
The river Buenaventura empties into the Pacific Ocean to the
north of California in 39° 30' north latitude, and takes its source in
the Sierra Madre to the north of the Colorado and Del Norte. The
Rio Gila heads opposite to the copper mines, and discharges itself
into the Gulf of California, just below the Colorado in the 33°
north latitude. The Rio Puerco is a branch of the Rio Del Norte,
and comes from the north and joins that river about one hundred
miles below the Presidio Del Norte. None of the foregoing streams
have the vestige of civilization on their shores, excepting the Rio
Del Norte.
Lakes. I know of no lakes in the province except that of Tampa-
nagos, the existence of which I rather look upon as fabulous. It is
said to commence, according to Father Escalante, in the 40° north
latitude, and to have been explored to the 42° in a north-west direc-
tion, when it enlarged its dimensions, and the discoverer thought
proper to return.
334 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
i
Animals. North Mexico produces deer, elk, buffalo, cabrie, the
grisley black bear, and wild horses, all of which are too well known
to need description.
Population. Its population is not far short of thirty thousand
souls *, one twentieth of which may be Spaniards from Europe (or
Chapetones); four twentieths Creoles; five twentieths Mestis, and
the other half civilized Indians.
Chief Town. The capital is Santa Fe, situated on a small stream
which empties into the Rio Del Norte, on the eastern side, at the foot
of the mountains which divide the waters of that river from the
Arkansaw and Red rivers of the Mississippi, in 36° north latitude
and 109° west longitude. It is of a long rectangular form, extend-
ing about one mile from east to west on the banks of the creek. In
the centre is the public square, one side of which forms the flank of
the soldiers' square, which is closed, and in some degree defended by
round towers in the angles which flank the curtains; another side
of the square is formed by the palace of the governor, his guard
houses, &c. another is occupied by the priests and their suite, and
the fourth by the chapitones, who reside in the city. The houses are
generally only one story high with flat roofs, and have a very mean
appearance on the outside, but some of them are richly furnished,
especially with plate. The secondary cities in the province are Albu-
querque, and Passo Del Norte, the latter is the southern city of the
province, as Taos is the most northern. But between the village of
Sibilleta and the Passo, there is a wilderness of near two hundred
miles.
Trade and Commerce* New Mexico carries on a trade direct
with Mexico and Biscay, also with Senora and Sinaloa. It sends
* Humboldt makes the population forty thousand two hundred, and that of the capital
three thousand six hundred. Vol. ii. pp. 307 and 317. E.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 335
out annually about thirty thousand sheep, tobacco, dressed deer and
cabrie skins, some fur, buffalo robes, salt, and wrought copper
vessels of a superior quality. It receives in return from Biscay and
Mexico, dry goods, confectionary, arms, iron, steel, ammunition, and
some choice European wines and liquors. From Senora and Sinaloa,
gold, silver, and cheese. The following articles sell as stated in this
province, which will shew the cheapness of provision, and the ex-
treme dearness of goods: flour at two dollars per hundred, salt
five dollars the mule load, sheep one dollar each, pork twenty-five
dollars per hundred, beeves five dollars each, wine del Passo fifteen
dollars per barrel, horses eleven dollars each, mules thirty dollars
each; superfine cloths twenty-five dollars per yard, fine ditto twenty
dollars, linen four dollars, and all other dry goods in proportion.
The journey with loaded mules from Santa Fe to Mexico and re-
turning takes five months. They manufacture rough leather, segars,
a vast variety and quantity of potter's ware, cotton, some coarse
woolen cloths, and blankets of a superior quality. All these manu-
factures are carried on by the civilized Indians, as the Spaniards
think it more honourable to be agriculturists than mechanics. The
Indians likewise far exceed their conquerors in the fecundity and
variety of genius in all mechanical opperations.
Agriculture* New Mexico has the exclusive right of cultivating
tobacco. About two miles above the town of the Passo Del Norte
is a bridge over the river, where the road passes to the western
side, at which place is a; large canal that takes out an ample
supply of water for the purpose of cultivation, which is carried on
at this place in as great perfection as at any I visited in the province.
There is a wall bordering the canal the whole way on both sides to.
protect it from the animals; and when it arrives at the village it is
distributed in such a manner that each person has his fields watered
in succession. At this place were as finely cultivated fields of wheat
and other small grain as I ever saw. And also numerous vineyards,
336 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
from which were produced the finest wine ever drank in the country,
which was celebrated throughout all the provinces, and was the only
wine used on the table of the commanding general.
They cultivate corn, wheat, rye, barley, rice, and all the common
culinary plants of the same latitude in the United States. But
they are at least a century behind us in the art of cultivation, for
notwithstanding the numerous herds of cattle and horses, I have
seen them frequently breaking up whole fields with the hoe. Their
oxen draw by the horns after the French mode.* But their carts
are extremely awkward and clumsily made. During the whole of
the time we were in New Spain, I never saw one horse in a vehicle
of any description, mules being made use of in carriages, as well as
for the purpose of labour.
Antiquities. On the river St. Francis, a large branch of the
Gila which heads near the copper mines in New Mexico, and dis*
charges itself into the Red river of California, are the remains of
old walls and houses which are established to be the vestiges of the
Mexicans on their route of emigration from the north-west to the
plains of Mexico, where they finally established themselves. Those
walls are of a black cement which encreases in stability with age,
and bids defiance to the war of time; the secret of its composition
is now entirely lost. There are also found at this place many
broken pieces of earthen ware which still possesses the glazing as
perfect as when first put on.
Aborigines. The Kyaways wander on the sources of the Plate,
and are supposed to be one thousand and nine men strong. They
possess immense herds of horses, and are at war with both the Paw-
nees and letans, as well as with the Sioux. They are armed with
bows, arrows and lances, and follow the buffalo. This nation, the
letans, and the Utahs, speak the same language.
* In this they only imitate the parent country. E.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 337
The Utahs wander on the sources of the Rio del Norte; they are
supposed to be two thousand warriors strong, are armed in the same
manner, and pursue the same game, as the Kyaways, but are a little
more civilized, having more connection with the Spaniards, with
whom however they are frequently at war. They were at this time
at peace with them, but waging war with the letans.
A battle was fought between them and the letans, in September
1806', near the village of Taos; there were about four hundred com-
batants in each army, but were separated by a Spanish Alcalde riding
out to the field of battle. There were eight or ten killed on each
side. The Utahs gave all the horses they had taken to the Spaniards.
This shews, in a strong degree, the influence the Spaniards have over
these Indians.
The Nanahaws are situated to the north«west of Santa Fe, and
are frequently at war with the Spaniards. They are supposed
to be two thousand warriors strong, and are armed in the same
manner as the two preceding nations. This nation, as well as all
others to the west of them, bordering on California, speak the lan-
fl'uage of the Appaches and Lee Panis, who are in a line with them
to the Atlantic.
The Appaches are a nation of Indians, who extend from the Black
Mountains in New Mexico to the bordiers of Cogquilla, keeping
the frontiers of three provinces in a continual state of alarm and
dread, and employing nearly two thousand dragoons to escort the
caravans, protect the villages, and revenge the various attacks tlipy
are continually making on the subjects of his catholic majesty. They
formerly extended from the entrance of the Rio Grande to the Gulf
of California, and have waged a continual warfare with the exception
of short truces, with-the Spaniards, from the time they pushed their
conquests back from Mexico into the internal provinces. It ii
extremely difficult to say what their numbers are at the present day,
but they must be extremely reduced by their long and constant
x x
338 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS OK
hostilities, together with the wandering and savage life they lead oti
the mountains, which is so injurious to an increase of population, and
in which they are extremely pinched by famine.
At the commencement of their warfare, the Spaniards used to take
their prisoners and make slaves of them, but finding that their un-
conquerable attachment to liberty made them surmount every
difficulty and danger to return to their mountains, they adopted
the practice of sending them to Cuba. This the Appaches no sooner
learned than they refused to give or receive quarter, and in no
instance have there been any taken since that period, except
when surprized asleep, or knocked down aud overpowered. Their
arms are the bow and arrow, and the lance. The bow forms two semi-
circles, with a shoulder in the middle; the back of it is entirely
covered with sinews, which are laid on in so nice a manner, by the use
of some glutinous substance, as to be almost imperceptible; this gives
great force to the elasticity of the weapon. Their arrow is more than
the cloth yard of the English, being three feet and a half long, the
upper part consisting of some light rush or cane, into which is in-
serted a shaft of about one foot, made of some hard seasoned light
wood; the point is of iron, cane, or stone, and when the arrow enters
the body, in attempting to extract it the shaft comes out of its
socket and remains in the wound. With this weapon they shoot
with such force as to go through the body of a man, at the distance
of one hundred yards; and an officer told me, that in an engagement
with them, one of their arrows struck his shield aud dismounted him
in an instant. Their other weapon of offence is a lance of fifteen
feet in length, which with both hands they charge over their
heads, managing the horse principally with their knees. With this
they are considered as an over-match for the Spanish dragoons single
handed, but for want of the tactic can never stand the charge of a
body that cuts in concert: they all have the shield. Some few
are armed with guns and ammunition, taken from the Spaniards.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 339
These, as well as the archers, generally march to war on foot, but
the lance men are always mounted.
Numerous are the anecdotes I heard related of their personal
bravory, and the spirit of their partisan corps. Not long before I
passed through, as a Cornet with sixty-three dragoons was passing
between New Mexico and Miscay, he was surrounded by about two
hundred Appaches infanti^y, and insteadof charging through them (as
it was on the plain) he ordered his dragoons to dismount and fight
with their carabines, by which means he and his whole party fell a
sacrifice. Malgares related an instance when he was marching with
one hundred and forty men, and was attacked by a party of Ap-
paches, both horse and foot, who continued the fight for four hours.
Whenever the Spanish dragoons made a general charge the Appa-
ches cavalry would retreat behind their infantry, who met the Spani-
ards with a shower of arrows, on which they immediately retreated,
*nd even the gallant Malgares spoke of his cavalry breaking their
infantry as a thing not to be thought of. How quickly would one
full squadron of our troops have put them to flight and cut them
to pieces? Malgares assured me, that if the men had seconded the
efforts and bravery of the Indian chieftain, they must have been
defeated and cut to pieces; that in various instances he rallied his
men and brought them up to the charge, and when they flew, re-
tired indignantly in the rear. Seeing Malgares very actively en-
gaged in forming and bringing up the men, he rode out a-lrcad of his
party and challenged him to single combat with hrs lance. This my
friend refused, as he said the chief was one of the stoutest men he
knew, carried a remarkably heavy lance, and rode a very fine
charger; but one of his corporals enraged to see them thus braved
by the savage, begged permission to meet the " infidel." His officer
refused his request, and ordered him to keep his ranks; but he
reiterating his request, his superior in a passion told him to go.
340 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
The Indian chief hud turned his horse to join his party, but seeing
his enemy advancing, turned, and giving a shout, met him at full
speed. The dragoon thought to parry the lance of his antagonist,
which he in part effected, but not throwing it quite high enough, it
entered his neck in front, and came out at the nape, when he fell
dead to the ground, and his victorious enemy gave a shout of
victory, in which he was joined by all his followers. This enraged
the Spaniards to such a degree, that they made a general charge, in
which the Indian cavalry again retreated, notwithstanding the en-
treaties of their gallant leader. In another instance a small smoke
was discovered on the prairie, and three poor savages were surrounded
by one hundred dragoons, and ordered to lay down their arms. They
smiled at the officer's demand, and asked him if he could suppose
that men who had arms in their hands would ever consent to become
slaves? He being loth to kill them, held a conference for an hour,
when finding that his threats had as little effect as his entreaties, he
ordered his men to attack them at a distance, keeping out of the reach
of their arrows, and firing at them with their carabines, which they
did, the Indians never ceasing to resist as long as life remained.
In a truce which was once held, a captain was ordered to treat with
some of the bands ; he received their deputies with hauteur, and they
could not come to terms ; the truce was broken, the Indians retreated
to their fastnesses in the mountains. In a day or two this same officer
pursued them. They were in a place called the Door in the Moun-
tains, Avhere only two or three dragoons could enter at a time, and
there were rocks and caves on the flanks. Between the Indians
secreted themselves, until a number of the Spaniards had come in,
when the Indians sounded a trumpet, and the attack began and con-
tinued on the side of the Appaches, until the captain fell, when the
Indian chief caused the firing to cease, saying, that "the man who
had so haughtily spurned the proffered peace was now dead." They
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 341
made prisoner (for once) of a young officer who during the truce had
treated them with great kindness, and sent him home safe and
unhurt.
Some of the bands have made temporary truces with the Spa-
niards, and received from them twenty-five cents per diem each.
These people hang round the fortifications of the country, drink,
shoot, and dissipate their time; they are haughty and independent,
and great jealousy exists between them and the Spaniards. An
officer was under trial when I was in the country for anticipating an
attack on his fortress, by attacking the chiefs of the supposed con-
spiracy, and putting them to death before they had time to mature,
and carry their plan into operation. The decision of his case I-
never learnt; but those savages who have been for some time around
the forts and villages, become by far the most dangerous enemies the
Spaniards have when hostile, as they acquire the Spanish language,
manners, and habits, and passing through the populated parts under
the disguise of the civilized and friendly Indians, commit murders and
robberies without being suspected. There is in the province of
Cogquilla a partisan by the name of Ralph, who, it is calculated, has
killed more than three hundred persons. He comes into the town
under the disguise of a peasant, buys provision, goes to the gamb-
ling tables and to mass, and before he leaves the village is sure to
kill some person, or carry off a woman, which he has frequently done.
Sometimes he joins travellers on the road, insinuates himself into
their confidence, and takes his opportunity to assassinate them. He
has only six followers, and from their knowledge of the country,
their activity, and cunning, he keeps about three hundred dragoons
continually employed. The government has offered one thousand
dollars for his head.
The civilized Indians of the province of New Mexico consist of
what were formerly twenty-four different bands, the several name*
of which I was not able to learn. But the Keres were one of the
342 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
most powerful; they form at present the population of St. Domingo,
St. Philip's and Deis, and one or two other towns. They are men of
large stature, round, full visage, fine teeth, and appear to be of a
gentle, tractable disposition; they resemble the Osage more than any
nation in my knowledge. Although they are not the vassals of
individuals, yet they may properly be termed the slaves of the state ,*
for they are compelled to do military duty, drive mules, carry loads,
or in fact perform any other act of duty or bondage that the will
of the commandant of the district, or any passing military tyrant,
chooses to ordain. I was myself eye witness of a scene which made
my heart bleed for these poor wretches, at the same time that it
excited my indignation and contempt, that they should suffer them-
selves with arms in their hands to be beaten and knocked about, by
beings no ways their superiors, unless a small tint of complexion
could be supposed to give that superiority. Before we arrived at
Santa F6, one night we rested near one of the villages where resided
the families of two of our horsemen. They took the liberty to pay
them a visit in the night. Next morning the whole were called up,
and because they refused to testify against their imprudent compa-
nions, several where knocked down from their horses by the Spanish
dragoons with the butt end of their lances; yet with the blood
streaking down their visage, and arms in their hands, they stood
cool and tranquil! not a frown, not a word of discontent, or pallia-
lion escaped their lips. Yet, what must have been the boiling in-
dignation of their souls, at the insults offered by the wretch,
clothed with a little brief authority? But the day of retribution will
come in thunder and in vengeance.
These savages are armed with bows and arrows, with lances or
escopates. Although they are said to be converted to Christianity,
they still retain many of their ancient superstitious feasts and cere-
monies, one of which is so remarkable, that it must not be passed
unnoticed. Once a year there is a great festivals, prepared for three
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 343
successive days, which they spend in eating, drinking, and dancing:
near this scene of amusement is a dark cave, into which not a
glimpse of light can penetrate, and in which are prepared places to
repose on. To this place persons of both sexes and of all ages, (after
puberty) and of all descriptions, repair in the night, where there is
an indiscriminate commerce of the votaries, as chance, fortune, and
events may direct. These revels certainly have great affinity to some
of the ancient mystic rights of Greece and Rome.
Government and Laws. The government of New Mexico may
be termed military in the pure sense of the word; for although
they have their Alcaldes OF inferior officers, their judgments are sub-
ject to a reversion by the military commandants of districts. The
whole male population is subject to military duties, without pay, or
emolument, and are obliged to find their own horses, arms, and pro-
visions. The only thing furnished by their government is ammuni-
tion, and it is extraordinary with what subordination they act, when
turned out on military service. A strong proof of this was exhibited
in the expedition of Malgares to the Pawnees; his command consist-
ing of one hundred dragoons of the regular service, and five hundred
drafts from the province. He had continued down the Red river
imtil their provisions began to be short; they then demanded of the
lieutenant where he was bound, and his intention? To this he
haughtily replied, " wherever his horse carried him." A few morn-
ings after he was presented with a petition (signed by two hundred
of the militia), to return home. He halted immediately, and caused
his dragoons to erect a gallows, then beat to arms, and the troops
fell in: he separated the petitioners from the others, took the
man who had presented him the petition, tied him up, gave him
fifty lashes, and threatened to put to death on the gallows any man
who should dare to murmur. This effectually silenced them, and
-quelled the rising spirit of sedition. But it was remarked, that it
344 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS
was the first instance of a Spaniard receiving corporal punishment
ever known in the province.
• Morals, Manners, $c. There is nothing particularly charac-
. teristic in the inhabitants of this province that will not be embraced
in my general observations on New Spain, except that the country
being a frontier, and the people cut off as it were from the more
populated parts of the kingdom, together with their continual wars
with some one of the savage nations who surround them, render them
the bravest, and most hardy subjects in New Spain; they are generally
armed, and know the use of their weapons. Their want of gold
and silver renders them laborious, in order that the productions of
their industry may be the means of establishing the equilibrium
between them and the other provinces, where those metals abound;
and their insolated and remote situation, causes them to exhibit in
a superior degree, the heaven-like qualities of hospitality and kind-
ness, in which they appear to endeavour to fulfil the injunctions of
the scripture, which enjoins us to feed the hungry, clothe the naked,
and give comfort to the oppressed. 1 shall always take pleasure in
expressing my gratitude for their noble reception of myself and
poor lads.
Military Force. There is but one troop of dragoons in all
New Mexico, of the regular force, which is stationed at Santa Fe,
and is one thousand strong. Of this the governor is always the cap-
tain, styling himself captain of the royal troop of Santa Fe dragoons;
but they are commanded by a first lieutenant, who is captain by
brevet. The men capable of bearing arms may be estimated at five
thousand, of those probably one thousand are completely armed, one
thousand badly, and the rest not at all.
; Religion. The catholic religion is well known, and with all
others tolerated in the United States. It is practised here after the
same manner as in the other provinces, and will be taken notice of
generally; but it may not be impertinent to remark, that the clergy
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 345
hi this province are much more liberal than those nearer the Vice-
royalty, where the terrors of the inquisition keep them in awe. In
our presence they and the officers used to laugh openly at the terror
and superstition in which the common people were held by them.
Many of them were generous and friendly, and I certainly feel my-
self indebted to them for their polite and hospitable treatment.
History. In the year 1594 two friars came out from Old
Mexico to New Mexico, and were well received by the savages.
They returned, and the ensuing year Juan de Ouate, a monk, went
out and explored the country. On his return, one thousand troops
and five hundred men, women, and children, came and settled on
the Rio del Norte, at no very great distance from where Santa
Fe now stands. They entered into an arrangement with the In-
dians, on the subject of their establishment; but a few years after
they rose en masse and fell on the new settlers by surprise, killed most
of the soldiers, and obliged them to retreat to the Passo del Norte,
from which circumstance it acquired its name. Here they waited a
reinforcement from Biscay, which they received, of seventy men and
two field pieces: with these they commenced their march and
finally arrived at Santa Fe, then the capital Indian village, which
they immediately laid siege to. The Indians maintained themselves
twenty-two days, when they surrendered and entered into a second
negotiation. Since that time the inhabitants have been engaged in
continual warfare with the various savage tribes, which surround
them on all sides, who have been nearly ruining them on several oc-
casions, and have obliged them to apply for reinforcements from
Biscay and Senora.
A few years since the letans carried on a warm and vigorous war
against them, but now are at peace, and considered as their firmest
allies.
In the Historical anecdotes of New Mexico, it may not be im-
proper to record the name of James Pursley, the first American who
346 G EOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
ever penetrated the immense wilds of Louisiana, and shewed the
Spaniards of New Mexico, that neither the savages who surround
the deserts which, divide them from the habitable world, nor the
jealous tyranny of their rulers, was sufficient to prevent the enterpris-
ing spirit of the Americans from penetrating the arcanum of their
rich establishments in the New World. Pursley was from near Baird's
Town,. Kentucky, which he had left in 1799' In 1802, with two com-
panions, he left St. Louis and travelled west on the head of the
Osage river, where they made a hunt; from thence they struck for
the White river of the Arkansaw, and intended to descend it to
Orleans, but while making preparations the Kanses stole their horses:
having secured their peltries they pursued them into the village.
The horses were there, but the Indians refused to give them up: Purs-
ley saw his horse with an Indian on him going to the water at the
edge of the town. He pursued him, and with his knife riped open
the horse's bowels. The Indian returned to the village, got his gun,
and came and snaped it at Pursley, who followed him into the village
with his..knife: the Indian took refuge in a lodge surrounded by
women and children. This conduct struck the chiefs with astonish-
ment, and admiration, of the "mad Americans," as they termed
them, and they returned the other horses to the hunters, Pursley
and his companions now returned to the place where they had
buried their peltries, and determined to pursue the route by land to
St. Louis; but some persons stole their horses a second time, when
they were no great distance from the Osage river, on which they
formed a rough canoe and descended that stream, nearly to its.
junction with the Missouri. Here they overset their canoe and
lost their whole year's hunt, but saved their arms and ammuni-
tion, which are always the primary objects in a desert. Oti the,
Missouri they met Monsieur in his barge, bound to the
Mandanes. Pursley embarked with him;for the voyage; his two
companions preferred returning to their homes. On, the: arrival
of the former at the point of destination, his employer despatched
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 347
him on a hunting and trading tour, with some bands of the Paddu-
cas and Kayaways, with a small quantity of merchandize. In the
ensuing spring they were driven by the Sioux from the plains into
the mountains which give rise to the Plate, Arkansaw, £c. and it was
their sign which we saw in such amazing abundance on the head
waters of the Plate, their party consisting of nearly two thousand
souls with ten thousand beasts. The Indians knowing they were
approximate to New Mexico, determined to send Pursley with his
companions and two of their body into Santa Fe, to know of the
Spaniards if they would receive them amicably, and enter into a trade
with them. This being acceded to by the governor (Allencaster) the
Indian deputies returned for their bands; but Pursley thought pro-
per to remain with a civilized people, among whom a fortuitous
event had thrown him, a circumstance which he assuned me he
had at one time entirely despaired of. He arrived at Santa Fe June
1805, and had been following his trade (a carpenter) ever since, at
which he made a great deal of money, except when working for
the officers, who paid him little or nothing. He was a man of strong
natural sense, and of undaunted intrepidity; and entertained me
with numerous interesting anecdotes of his adventures with the
Indians, and of the jealousy of the Spanish government. He was once
nearly being hanged for making a few pounds of powder, which he
innocently did, as he was accustomed to do in Kentucky, but which
is a capital crime in these provinces. He still retained his gun,
which he had with him during his whole tour, and spoke confidently
that if he had tAVO hours start, not all the province could take him.
He was forbidden to write, but was assured he should have a passport
whenever demanded; he was obliged, however, to give security that
he would not leave the country without the permission of the govern*.
ment. I brought letters out for him. He assured me 'that i he had
found gold on the head of the Plate, and had carried some of th*
virgin mineral in his shot pouch for months, but that being in doubt
y r 2
348 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
whether he should ever again behold the civilized world, and loosing
in his mind all the ideal value which mankind have stamped on that
metal, he threw his sample away; that he had imprudently men-
tioned it to the Spaniards, who had frequently solicited him to go
and shew a detachment of cavalry the place, but conceiving it to be
in our territory he had refused, and was fearful that the circum-
stance might create a great obstacle to his leaving the country.
BISCAY lies between 24° and 33° north latitude, and 105° and 111°
west longitude; is bounded on the north by New Mexico, on the
west by Senora and Sinaloa, and on the east by New Leon and
Cogquilla. It is six hundred miles in length, from north-west to
south-east, and four hundred miles in width from east to west, taking
it at its greatest extent.
Air and Climate. The air is dry, and the heat very great al
that time of the year which precedes the rainy season, which com-
mences in June, and continues until September, by light showers;
during the other part of the year there is not the least rain or snow
to moisten the earth. The atmosphere had therefore become so
electrified, that when we halted at night, in taking off our blankets,
the electric fluid would almost cover them with sparks; and in Chi-
huahua we prepared a bottle with gold leaf as a receiver, and
collected sufficient fluid from a bear skin, to give a considerable
shock to a number of persons. This phenomenon was more conspi-
cuous in the vicinity of Chihuahua than in any other part that we
crossed.
Mines and Minerals. This province abounds in gold and
silver mines, which yield an immense quantity of'those metals, but
not so great a revenue to the king as those which are nearer the
mint, and consequently present a greater facility to coinage. I am
not acquainted with the proportion of the metals which the mineral
yields in any instance, except in one of the silver mines at Chihuahua,
•which belonged to a friend of mine, who informed me that his mine
. THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 349
yielded him thirteen and a half dollars per hundred weight. I went
one day, accompanied by Robinson, through many of these furnaces,
and noticed the method they pursued in analyzing the mineral and
extracting the metals. But as I had previously asked several Spanish
officers to accompany me, who had always declined or deferred the
thing to a future period, I conceived it probable it was too delicate
a subject to make a minute inquiry into. I so far observed the
process, however, as to learn, that the mineral was brought to
the furnace from the mines in bags on mules, it was then ground or
pounded into small lumps, not larger than the size of a nut, and
precipitated into water (in a sieve which permitted the smaller par-
ticles to escape into a tub) through several progressive operations;
from the small particles which remained at the bottom of the tub
after it had been purified by the earthy particles, there was a propor-
tion of metal extracted by a nicer process, but the larger parts were
put into a furnace, similar to our iron furnaces, and when it was in a
state of fusion was let out into a bed of sand prepared for it, formed
to make bars about the size of our common pig iron; average in value
about two thousand five hundred dollars. The gold was drawn out
into a mould similar to a bowl, and the pieces were stamped (as
was each bar of silver) by the king's essay er of metals, with its value;
being from eight to ten thousand dollars; they are then received
into the king's treasury in payment, and in fact have a currency
through the kingdom. There are vast speculations made on the
coinage. As people who have not large capitals prefer selling their
bullion in the internal provinces at a considerable discount, to
being obliged to transport it to Mexico, in order to convert it
into specie. The present C (I was informed) was
engaged in that traffic, on which from the province of Senora
he sometimes made twenty-five per cent. But numbers of the
proprietors who have no immediate use for their bullion, put it
in their cellars, where it remains piled up to their posterity, of no
350 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS
service to themselves or to the community. There are at Chihuahua
and its vicinity fifteen mines, thirteen of silver, one of gold, and one
of copper, the furnaces for all of which are situated round the town
in the suburbs, and present, except on Sundays, volumes of smoke
arising in every direction; which are seen from a distance long
before the spires of the city strike the view. It is incredible the
.quantity of cinders that surround the city, in piles ten or fifteen feet
high. Next the creek they have formed a bank of them to check
the encroachments of the stream, and it has presented an effectual
barrier. I- am told that a European employed some hands, and
wrought at the cinders, and that they yielded one dollar twenty-five
cents for each per day, but this not answering his expectations, he
ceased his proceedings. At Mauperne there are one gold and seven
silver mines.
At Durango there are many and rich mines, but I am unable to state
the number. There are also gold mines in the Sierra Mad re, near
Alomas, and many others of which I have no knowledge. There is
likewise in the province,about one hundred miles south of Chihuahua,
a mountain or hill of load stone. Walker, who had been on the
ground and surveyed it, informed me, it appeared to be a solid
stratum as regular as that of lime stone, or any other of the species.
He had brought home a square piece of near one and a half foot,
'Cind was preparing some to be sent to. Spain, and likewise forming
magnets to accompany it, in order that their comparative strength
might be ascertained with magnets formed in Europe.
Rivers. v The Conchos is the largest in the province. It takes its
"source in the Sierra Madre, near Batopilis in 28° north latitude, and
discharges itself in the Rio del Norte in latitude 31°, after a course of
'about three hundred miles. It is the largest western branch of the
Rio del Nortc, and receives in its course the Rio Florida from the
east, and St. Paubla from the west. Where we struck the Conchos,
it appeared to be nearly as large as the Rio del Noite attha Passo.
- THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 351
The Rio San Paubla is the large western branch of the Conches and
heads, in 28° 5(X north latitude, and empties into the latter at
Bakinao; its whole course is about one hundred and fifty miles, in
summer nearly dry, and in the rainy season impassable. The Rio
Florida takes its rise in latitude 26° 30' north, and after a course of
about one hundred and fifty miles discharges itself into the Conchos.
Guaxequillb is situated on its eastern bank about midway. The Rio
Nasas is in part the line between Biscay and Cogquilla j it-runs
north and empties into the lake of Cayman; it is nearly dry in the
summer season, but at some periods impassable.
Lakes. Lake Cayman and Lake Parras, are two small lakes
situated at the feet of the mountains, and are full offish.
Animals, Insects, $c. There are some few bears, deer, and wild
horses, but not-in abundance. The.scorpions of Durango exhibit the
most remarkable instance of the physical effects of climate or air that
lever heard related. They come out of the walls and crevices in
May, and continue about a fortnight in such numbers that the in-
habitants never walk in their houses after dark without a light, and
always shift or examine the bed clothes, and beat the curtains previ*.
ously to going to rest; after which the curtains are secured under the
bed. The precautions are similar to those we take with our moschetto
curtains. The bite of these scorpions has-been known to prove
mortal in two hours. But the most extraordinary circumstance isj
that by taking them ten leagues from Durango they become perfectly
harmless, and loose all their venomous qualities. Query, does this
arise from a change of air, or of sustenance?
Population of Chief Towns. The population of Biscay may be
estimated at two hundred thousand ;*' of this three-twentieths may
bej Spaniards from Europe, five-twentieths Creoles, five-twentieths
Mestis and Quatroons, and seven-twentieths' Indians. Durango
* According to Humboldt, one hundred and fifty-nine thousand seven hundred. PoL.
Ess. vol. ii. p. £86. E. - •'- :.i.'i..«ii
353 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
was founded in 1550. It is the principal city, and the seat of
government for the province of Biscay, and of the bishop of Du-
rango. Its population may be estimated at forty thousand souls.* It
is situated in 25° north latitude, and 107° west longitude.
Pallalein, situated at the foot of the Sierra Madre, is' supposed to
contain twenty-five thousand souls.
Chihuahua, the place of residence of the commandant-general of
the internal provinces, was founded in 16'9I, and is situated in
29° north latitude, and 107° 30' west longitude. Its population
may be estimated at seven thousand ;t it is of an oblong rectan-
gular form, on the eastern side of a small stream, which discharges
itself into the river Conchos. On its southern extremity, is a small
but elegant church. In the public square stands the church, the
royal treasury, the town house, and the richest shops. At the wes-
tern extremity another church, for the military; a superb hospital,
belonging formerly to the Jesuits' possessions; the church of the
Monks of St. Francis and St. Domingo; the military academy, and
Quartel del Tropa. On the north-west were two or three missions,
very handsomely situated on a small stream, which comes in from
the west. About one mile to the south of the town is a large aque-
duct, which conveys the water round it, to the east, into the main
stream below the town, at the centre of which is seated a reservoir,
from whence the water is conducted by pipes to the different parts
of the city; and in the public square is to be a fountain, and jet
d'eait, which will be both ornamental and useful. The principal
church at Chihuahua was the most superb building we saw in New
Spain. Its whole front being covered with statues of the apostles,
and the different saints, set in nitches of the wall, and the windows,
doors, &c. ornamented with sculpture. I never was within the
doors, but was informed by Robinson, that the decorations were
* Twelve thousand, Humb. Ubi. Supra, p. 293, E.
f Eleven thousand six bundled, Ibid. p. 293. E.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 353
immensely rich. Some men whom we supposed entitled to credit,
informed us that the church was built by a tax of twelve and a half
cents laid on each ingot of gold, or silver, taken out of the mines in
the vicinity in years. Its cost, including the decorations, was
one million five hundred thousand dollars, and when it was finished,
there remained three hundred thousand dollars of the fund unap-
propriated. On the south side of Chihuahua is the public walk,
formed by three rows of trees, whose branches nearly form a junction
over the heads of the passengers below. At different distances there
are seats for persons to repose themselves on; at each end of the
walks there were circular seats on which (in the evening) the company
collected, and amused themselves with the guitar, and songs in Spanish,
Italian, and French, adapted to the voluptuous manners of
the country. In this city, as well as in all others of any con-
sideration, there are patroles of soldiers during the night, who stop
every person at nine o'clock and examine them. My countersign
was "Americans/'
Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures. Biscay trades with north
Mexico, Senora, and the vice-royalty; from the latter of which they
bring on mules all their dry goods, European furniture, books,
ammunition, &c. They furnish a great number of horses, mules,
sheep, beeves, goats, &c. to the more populous parts of the kingdom,
whichhavelesssparegroundfor pasturage. Some persons make large
fortunes by being the carriers from Mexico to Chihuahua, the freight
being eight dollars per cent, and they generally put three hundred
pounds on each mule. The merchants make their remittances twice
a year in bullion. Goods sell at Chihuahua about two hundred
per cent, above the prices of our Atlantic sea-port towns. Their
horses average at six dollars, but some have been sold for one
hundred, their trained muks at twenty dollars; but extraordinary
matches for carriages have sold for four hundred dollars a pair.
Rice sells for four dollars per hundred weight. They manufacture
z 7,
354 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
some few arms, blankets, stamp leather, embroidery, coarse cotton,
and woollen cloths, and a species of carpetting. Their blankets
average at two dollars, but some sell as high as twenty-five
dollars.
Agriculture. They cultivate wheat, corn, rice, oats, cotton, flax,
indigo, and vines. What I have said relative to the cultivation of
these articles in New Mexico, will equally apply to this province;
but it may be proper to observe here, that one of Nolan's men
constructed the first cotton gin they ever had in the province, and
that Walker had caused a few churns to be made for some private
families, and taught them the use of them.
Timber, Plains, and Soil. To the north of Chihuahua, about thirty
miles to the right of the main road, there is some pine timber, and at
a spring on this side of Carracal we saw one walnut tree, and on
all the small streams there are shrubby cotton trees: with these few
exceptions, the whole province is a naked, barren plain, which
presents to the eye an arid unproductive soil; and more especially
in the neighbourhood of mines, even the herbage appears to be
poisoned by the qualities of the land.
Antiquities. There are none in the province which came within
my notice, except the Jesuit college and the church at Chihuahua,
which were about one century old, and are used as hospitals. In
these there was nothing peculiar except a certain solidity and
strength, which appeared to surpass the other public buildings of
the city.
Aborigines. There are no uncivilized savages in this province,
except the Appaches, of whom I have already spoken largely. The
Christian Indians are so incorporated amongst the lower grades of
Mestis that it is scarcely possible to draw the line of distinction,
except at the ranches of some nobleman or large land-holder, where they
are in a state of vassalage. This class of people laid a conspiracy,
which was so well concerted as to baffle the research of the
 
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. .. 355
Spaniards for a length of time, and to occasion them the loss of
several hundreds of the inhabitants. The Indians used to go out
from their villages in small parties; in a short time a part would
return, with the report that they had been attacked by the Indians.
The Spaniards would immediately send out a detachment in pursuit,
when they were led into an ambuscade, and every soul cut off. They
pursued this course so long that the whole province became alarmed
at the rapid manner in which their enemies multiplied; but some
circumstances leading to a suspicion, they made use of the super-
stition of these people for their ruin. Some officers disguised them-
selves like friars and went round amongst the Indians, pretending
to be possessed of the spirit of prophecy. They preached up to
them, that the day was approaching when a general deliverance from
the Spanish tyranny was about to take place, and invited the Indians
to join in promoting with them the work of God. The poor
creatures came forward, and in their confessions stated the great
hand that had already been put to the work. After they had ascer-
tained the nature and extent of the conspiracy, and obtained a body
of troops, they commenced the execution and put to death about
four hundred of them. This struck terror and dismay through the
Indian villages, and they dared not rise to support their freedom
and independence.
Government and Laws. In this province there is some shadow
of civil law, but it is merely a shadow, as the following anecdotes may
illustrate. An officer, on arriving at a village, demanded quarters
for himself and troops. The supreme civil officer of the place sent
him word that he must shew his pass-port. The military officer
immediately sent a file of men, who brought the judge a prisoner
before him, when he severely reprimanded the magistrate for his
insolence, and obliged him to obey his orders instantly. This has
been done by a subaltern, in a city of twenty thousand inhabitants.
The only laws which can be said to be in force, are the military
 
z z 2
356 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
and ecclesiastical, between which there is a perfect understanding.
The governor is a brigadier-general, residing at Durango, and
receives five thousand dollars in addition to his pay in the line. At the
same time it is but proper to observe that there are ordinances to bear
on each subject of civil discussion, but they are so corrupt, that the
influence of family and fortune generally has right on its side.
In each town is a public magazine for provision, where every farmer
brings his grain and produce which he may have for sale, when he
is sure to meet with a market, and should there be a scarcity the
ensuing year, it is retailed out to the inhabitants at a reasonable
rate : to this place all the citizens of the town repair to purchase.
Morals, Manners, $c. There is nothing peculiar in the man-
ners or morals of the people of this province, but a much greater
degree of luxury among the rich, and misery among the poor, and
corruption of morals more generally than in New Mexico.. As to
military spirit they have none; at a muster of a regiment of militia
at Chihuahua, one of my men attended, and informed me that there
were about twenty-five who had fire-arms and lances, fifty with bows
and arrows and lances, and the remainder with lances, ot bows and
arrows only.
Military Force. The regular military force of Biscay consists-,
of one thousand one hundred dragoons, distributed as follows :—
On the frontiers of the deserts of New Mexico and Senora, at the
forts of Elisiaira, Carracal, and St. Buenaventura* Presidio del Norte
Janos, Tulinos, and St. Juan Baptist. Farther south are Chihuahua,.
Jeronime, Cayone, St. Paubla, Guaxequillo, and Conchos,. with
several other places, which are dependencies on these possessions.
The compliment of each of those posts is one hundred and fifty men,
but may be averaged at one thousand one "hundred in all; say
one hundred at each post. The militia are not worthy particular
notice.
Religion. Biscay is in the diocese of Durango, the bishop's
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 357
salary being estimated at one hundred thousand dollars per annum.
The catholic religion is here in its full force, but the inferior clergy
are much dissatisfied. The people's superstition is so great that they
are running after the holy father in the streets, and endeavouring
to kiss the hem of his garment; and should the bishop be passing
the street all kneel, whether rich or poor. '.
History. I shall not presume to say any thing on this subject,
except that I believe this province has been populated about two
hundred and seventy years.
SEKOBA lies between the 27* andSS0 N. lat. 11O° and 117" west
long, from Paris; its greatest length from north to south being about
four hundred and twenty, and its width from east to west three hundred
and eighty miles. It is bounded on the north by New Mexico, on
the west by California, on the south by Sinaloa and the Gul£ on the
east by Biscay and New Mexico^
Air and Climate. Dry, puce, and healthy generally; but near,
the Gulf the ground is marshy» and it is in some of the districts
unhealthy. .;
Mines, Minerals* and Fossils. On these subjects I can only
speak in general. It abounds in rich gold and silver mines, but
more especially the former, in as much as the gold does not preserve
its usual exchange with silver in that province. General Salcedo
told me that in this province, the largest piece of pure gold had been
found, ever yet discovered in New Spain, and it had been sent to
the king to be put in his cabinet of curiosities^
Rivevs. Rio de fo Aseencipn is a short river which enters the
Gulf of California, about the 31° N. lat. 'Rio Yaqui heads on the
boarders of Biscay and Senora, and discharges itself in the Gulf of
California at Guaymas> at 28° the N. latitude.
Timber, Plains, and Soil. This province is like Biscay, destitute
of timber, but has some rich soil near the sea. . .
Animals. There are deer, cabrie, and bear: there are also remarkably
358 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
large Guana lizards, which are said to weigh ten pounds, and are
perfectly harmless; they are tamed by the inhabitants and trained
to catch mice.
Population and Chief Totms. The population of Senora may
be estimated at two hundred thousand souls, of which three-
twentieths probably are Spaniards, four-twentieths Creoles, six-
twentieths Mestis, and seven-twentieths Indians. Airspe, the
capital of Senora, and until twenty years past the seat of govern-
ment of the internal provinces, is situated in 31" north latitude, and
111* west longitude, near the head of the river Yaqui. It is cele-
brated throughout the kingdom for the vast quantity of gold table
utensils made use of in the houses, and for the urbanity and
hospitality of the inhabitants. Its population is three thousand four
hundred souls*.
Senora and Terrenate are the next cities in magnitude in the pro-
vince, the latter to the north, the former to the south of the capital.
Trade and Commerce. Senora trades with New Mexico and
Biscay for the productions of those provinces, and with Old Mexico,
both by land and sea, through the Gulf of California. It is cele-
brated for cheese, horses and sheep.
Agriculture. They cultivate the same articles as in Biscay.
Aborigines. There are a number of savage nations bordering
on Senora, which oblige the king to keep up a number of military
posts on the northern and western frontiers. But the names of the
tribes, as to any of their distinguished characters, I am unacquainted
with; however it may not be improper to observe, that they are
armed with bows, arrows, shield and lance, like their savage neigh-
bours. The civilized Indians are in the same situation as in the
other provinces.
* The province of Senora one hundred and twenty-one thousand four hundred, the
Arispe seven thousand six hundred, Scuora six thousand four hundred. Ilumb. vol. ii.
pp. 296 and 305. E.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 359
Government and Laws. Similar to those of Biscay; the governor
being a brigadier-general, receiving seven thousand dollars, in addition
to his pay in the line.
Morals and Manners. In every respect similar to those of Biscay,
except that they are more celebrated for hospitality.
Military Force. The regular military force of this province
consists of nine hundred dragoons, and two hundred infantry,
stationed aa follows :—At Tubson, St. Cruz, Tubac, and Altac on
the north, with one hundred dragoons each for a garrison. Fiuteras,
Bacuachi, Bavispa, and Horcasitas, in the centre with three hundred
dragoons and two hundred infantry; Buenavista on the south with
one hundred dragoons as a garrison. The infantry mentioned above
are a nation of Indians, called theOpejas, and are said to be the best
soldiers in New Spain. I saw a detachment of them at Chi-
huahua, who appeared to be fine stout athletic men, and were the
most subordinate and faithful troops I ever knew, acting like a
band of brothers, and having the greatest attachment for their
officers.
Religion. Catholic, in the diocese of Durango.
History. I am unacquainted with its history, except that the
seat of government of the internal provinces was formerly at Arispe,
at which time the government of California was also under the
captain generalship of the internal provinces. But the removal of
the seat of government to Chihuahua, and the disjunct situation of
California, induced his majesty to annex it to the vice-royalty. The
increasing magnitude of the relations of New Spain with the United
States, gave likewise an importance to the eastern interests, which
induced the continuance of the seat of government at Chihuahua.
SINALOA lies between the SS^and 28Q north latitude, and 108° and
111°westlongitude, and is bordered on the north by Senora and Biscay,
on the east by the latter, on the south by the administration of Gua-
dalaxara, and on the west by the Gulf of California. Its greatest
360 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
length is three hundred miles north and south, and in width from
east to west one hundred and fifty miles.
Air and Climate. On the sea coast humid, but back dry and
pure.
Mines, Minerals, and Fossils. There are both gold and
silver mines, but with their relative value or productions I am
unacquainted.
Rivers. Rio Fuerte takes its source in 27° north latitude, and
110° west longitude, and disembogues itself into the Gulf of Cali-
fornia. It crosses the whole province, and is nearly one nundred and
fifty miles long. Rio Culican is not more than fifty miles in length,
and enters the Gulf of California in 25° north latitude.
Timber, Plains, and Soil. No timber; soil similar to Senora.
Animals. Domestic only.
Population and Chief Towns, Its population may be estimated
at sixty thousand, not more than three-twentieths of whom
are Spaniards, the remainder Creoles, Mestis, and Indians. Sinaloa
is the capital, but its population, extent, &c. are to me unknown.
Agriculture. The same as Senora.
Aborigines. None who are not civilized.
Military Force. One hundred dragoons for expresses, and the
guard of the governor.
Religion. Catholic ; in the diocese of the bishop of Durango.
THE PROVINCE OP COGQUILLA lies between the 23" and 31° 30'
north latitude, and 101* and 105° west longitude; its greatest
length north and sou th may be five hundred miles, and in its greatest width
east and west two hundred miles. It is bounded on the north by
New Mexico and Texas, on the east by the latter, St Ander and
New Leon, on the south by the administration of Zacatecas, and on
the west by Biscay.
Air and Climate. Pure and healthy, except about the middle of
May, when the heat is intense, and sometimes a scorching wind is
THE lOT-EKIOfc Oi* NEW SPAIN,
fe)t, like the flame issttirigitorti art oVeri of furnace, which frequently
skins the face and affbets the eyes. This phenomenon is felt niore
sensibly about the setting of the stfnf than af any other peribd of the'
twenty-four hours.
Mines, Minerals, and Fassits. I know of no mines in tm's provittce"
e*ccpt at Motttelovez, and Sta. Rosa; the valne of either of which
I am unacquainted with; but those of Sfa. RoSst are reputed to be as'
rich as any silver mines itr the kingdom. Moiitelovez has nond
very considerable.
Bfrers. TniS province has nb river" tff magnitude or consequence'
but the Rio Grande, which crosses its not them part in a south-east
direction-
Lakes, fhere is * small Jake catted tfte Agua Verde, situated ort
its western extferriity^ which' gives rise to a small stream that
discharges itself into ihe Rio1 del Norte.
. Timber, Plains, and Stil From' the rifet ^asaS to "flid
th^ palmetto is found', trliix^h grb'^s t6' the liefghth of twenty
twenty-ftVe feet; with A tratik of twiy W rtiree feet diameter; it^
leaves ater i» the shape' of '&'• spear', and cover7 krPitKe trunk Vrieif
young, -buf ftAl off as''tne''tree'gifo^ old*; itsrwood'is 'of !£springy'
naturfe, a«d frorii every infortiiarion I could prdcttre, is of tfie sa'rrfe'
specie* ^s^that of the same" name m the sbullh&fn' Stafe^. &h&
hundred miles to the eaSf of the Rib- Grande, the oak trrnber coni-'
menced, bdrngtbe firtt'^e Md-seten'i'ri flfe^roVlift*; fctrt Hf
small and scrubby, arid 'presented froni tmVW tiie
(the rivet 'Mariana) a^ tery ^ce^tibld ^aidktion'B
vegetation of timfeef, itt fiuality, lulurfance, ati'df Variety. The'
cbuntry now became Very' similar to ther Indian; territory.
Amntrts. Deer, Mld;hotses-, an* a few bufTkFoe^ ahd Wild7 nWg^. '';
Population and Ch$e^ Tfabs'. Hionfefof cti i's' iihe ckpitaf of ^
fe; it is situated1 bft a smal^ sfreatn ofVfalter, and Kes m'2r?.;3^'
latitude, 105° SCX west longitude; it k attoliirt b^e'mrte iff le'rigtf^
3 A
362 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
a course nortfy, 70° east by the main street; it has two public squares,
seven churches, powder magazines, mills, King's hospital, and Quartel
del tropas. This is the principal military depot for the provinces of
Cogquilla and Texas. Its population may be estimated at three
thousand five hundred souls. This city being the stated residence
of his excellency Governor Cordero, has been ornamented by him
with public walks, columns, and fountains, and made one of the
handsomest cities in the internal provinces.
Sta. Rosa is about thirty-eight miles to the north-west of Monte-
lovez, and is represented to be the most healthy situation in the
provinces, and to have the best water and fruit. It is on some of
the head waters of the river Millada. Its population is represented
at four thousand souls. Parras is situated on a small stream, and
with its suburbs is supposed to contain seven thousand souls; and
San Lorenzo, three miles to the north, five hundred souls. This
place may be termed the vineyard of Cogquilla, the whole population
pursuing no other occupation than the cultivation of the grape,
and its name denotes the branches of the vine. At the Hacienda of
San Lorenzo, where we halted, were fifteen large stills, and larger
cellars, and a greater number of casks than I ever saw in any brewery
in the United States. Its gardens were delightfully interspersed
with figs, vines, apricots, and a variety of fruits, which are produced
in the torrid zone. Fine summer houses, where were wine, refresh-
ments, and couches to repose on, and where the singing of the birds
was delightful. There were here likewise mills, and a fine water-fall.
The Presidio of Rio Grande is situated on that river, and is
remarkable for nothing but three or four handsome missions, with
which it is surrounded, a power magazine, quarters for the troops,
and a few iron field-pieces on miserable truck carriages. Population
two thousand five hundred souls. The population of this province
may be estimated at seventy thousand souls, not more that ten
thousand of whom are Spaniards.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 363
Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures. This province receives all
its merchandize from Mexico by land, and in return gives horses,
mulesi wines, gold, and silver. There is an annual fair hold at
Saltelo, in New Leon, at which an immense quantity of merchandize
is disposed of, and where merchants of very large capitals reside.
Agriculture. They cultivate the vine principally, with grain and
corn sufficient for their own consumption, and to supply the greatest
part of Texas.
Aborigines. The Appaches cover their north-west frontier. The
Lee Panis are a nation who rove from the Rio Grande to some
distance into the province of Texas. Their former residence was
on the Rio Grande, near the sea-shore. They are at present divided
into three bands of three hundred, three hundred and fifty, and one
hundred men each; are at war with the letans and Appaches, and
at peace with the Spaniards. They have fair hair, and are generally
handsome; and are armed with bows, arrows, and Jances; they pursue
the wild horses, of which they take numbers and sell them to the
Spaniards.
Government and Laws. Military and ecclesiastical power is all
that is known or acknowledged in this province, but its administration
was mild under their excellent governor Cordero. The governor's
civil salary is four thousand dollars per annum.
Morals and Manners. It was evident to the least discerning eye,
that as we diverged from those parts which produce such vast quantities
of the precious metals, the inhabitants became more industrious,
and there were fewer beggars: thus were the morals of the people
of Cogquilla less corrupted than those of Biscay or New Leon, their
neighbours-
Military Force. There are four hundred dragoons maintained in
this province, and stationed at Montelovez, Sta. Rosa, Pressidio, Rio
del Norte, San Fernandez. >vv/'.'i \iw. . • *
Religion. Catholic, but mild. It is in the diocese of Durango.
3 A 2
364, GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
History. Cogquilla had not pushed its population as far as the
Rio Grande in the year 1687, as at that, time La Salle established
himself at the entrance of that river, it being a wilderness; but
Montelpvez was established some time before this era; ,of its parti-
cular history I have no knowledge.
TflE PROVINCE or TSXAS lies between 2?9 SO" and 35° N. latitude,
98° and 104° "W, longitude j bordered on the north by Louisiana,
on the east by the territory of Orleans, on the west by'Cogquilla and
l^ew Mexico., and on the south by New San Ander; its greatest
length from north to south may be five hundred miles, and breadth
frpni east to wept three hundred and fifty.
Air o/irf Climate. It js one of the most.delightful temperatures in
the world, but bejiig a country cqvered with timber, the new emi-
grants are generally sickly, Avhiok may, refy justly be attributed to
^he putresc^nt; veg^tabjfc matter which .they put into fermentation
in. clearing, and by remaining QU the ground, inhaling-all the air
which. arises from Vhe .effluvia, itttermitifentsisupeivene and billi-
ons attacks, and in some instances malignant fevers. These remarks
are proved by tlie observajtidn ;of; all the first settlers of our western
frontiers, that those. piaffes r.w,hich in the course ef ten or fifteen
years become perfo^tlyi heaUhy, are for the first two or three years
quite the reverse, and g^Berfcily cost them the loss of two or three
members of their faiftilieft. I presume that this dreadful effect might
be remedied if the setters wo,uld go wjth the working hands and fell
tfie timber an,4 de&fc'Qy the vegetation in the spring, and in the fall
when dry burn it, but not reside on the place for at least the first two-
years* in the course of which time the :atmofi>phere would by these
means not be affected by the morbid exhalations arising from the
before-mentioned causes; and the place would be as healthy a resi-
ilriKv as any other in the same climate.'
Mines, Minerals, and Fossils. The only-mine knoWn and? worketL
is ane pf 1^^.., i-joifo uiL' : i •'. ..L :." k-' 5 ,-)'!" .i 'i
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 365
Rivers. The river St. Antonio takes its source about one league
O
to the north-east of the capital of the province, (St. Antonio) and
is navigable for canoes to its source, affording excellent fish, fm3
mill-seats, and water to every part of the town. It is joined by the
river Mariana from the west, (which forms part of the line between
Cogquilla and Texas) and then discharges itself into the Rio Gua-
delupe, about fifty miles from the sea. At the town of St. Antonio
it is about twenty yards wide, and in some places twelve feet in
depth. The river Guadelupe takes its source about one hundred
and fifty miles to the north-west of St. Antonio: where we crossed it,
it was a beautiful stream of at least sixty yards in width, its' waters
are transparent and navigable for canoes. After receiving the wa-
ters of St. Antonio and St. Mark, it discharges itself into-the south-
west end of the bay of St. Bernard. At the crossing of this river
there is a range for the horses of St. Antonio, and a guard de cabello
with an elegant site for a town.
The river St: Mark takes its source about one hundred iflile^
north, twenty west of St. Antonio, and at the crossing of the road
is thirty yards in width: a clear and navigable stream for canoes.
By the road this river is only fourteen miles from the Guadehipei
into which it discharges itself.
The Red river takes its source in the province of Cogquilla, in 33°
N. latitude, 104° 30' W. longitude, but bending its course'east, eri^
ters the province of Texas; and after a winding course of about
six hundred miles disembogues itself into the bay of St. Bernard;
in the 2-9° N. latitude. Where the road traverses, it was at least one
hundred and fifty yards wide, and has a guard of dragoons stationed
on its banks; its waters are of a redish cast, from whence it probably
derived its name: this stream is navigable for boats of three or four
tons burthen.
The river Brasses takes its source in the province of Cogquilla,.
in 34S N. latitude, and 105? W. longitude, enters the province of'
S66 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
Texas, and discharges itself into the Gulf of Mexico in 28° 40'
after a course of seven hundred miles; it is the largest river in the
province, and where the road crosses is three hundred yards wide, and
navigable for large keels. From the appearance on its banks it must
rise and fall one hundred feet; its waters were red and turbid,
its banks well timbered and a rich prolific soil. Here was kept the
only boat I recollect to have seen in the provinces.
The river Trinity takes its source in 34° N. latitude, and 99° W.
longitude, and discharges itself into Galveston's bay, in 29° 30' N.
latitude. By its meanders it is about three hundred miles in length;
where the road crosses it is about sixty yards in width, with higli
steep banks covered with timber, and a rich luxuriant soil.
. The rivers Natchez and Angelina are small streams of about twenty
yards in width, and discharge themselves after forming a junction
into the Trinity.
The river Toyac is a small stream which discharges itself into the
Gulf of Mexico, in the same bay as the Sabine, in about 29° 50'
N. latitude, and 97° W. longitude.
The Sabine river, the present limits between the Spanish domi-
nions and the territories of the United States in that quarter, takes
its source in about the 33° N. latitude, and enters the Gulf of Mexico
in 29° 50'. It may be three hundred miles in length by its mean-
ders, and at the road about fifty yards in width: here the Spaniards
keep a guard and ferry-boat.
Lakes.—Some small ones near the head of the Guadelupe, and
some branches of Red river.
Timber, Plains and Soil.—This province is well timbered for one
hundred miles from the coast, but has some small prairies inter-
spersed through its timbered land; taken generally it is one of
the richest, most prolific, and the best watered countries in North
America, for the residence of man, and the production of the
necessaries of life.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 367
Animals.—Buffalo, deer, elk, wild hogs, and wild horses; the
latter of which are in such large numbers as to afford supplies for
all the savages who border on the province, the Spaniards, and vast
droves for the other provinces of the United States, which find their
way out, notwithstanding the trade being contraband. They go in
such large gangs that it is requisite to keep an advanced guard of
horsemen, in order to frighten them away; for should they be suf-
fered to come near your horses and mules which you drive with
you, by their snorting, neighing, &c. they alarm them, and are
frequently joined by them and taken off, notwithstanding all the
exertions of the dragoons to prevent them. A gentleman told
me he saw seven hundred beasts carried off at one time, not
one of which was ever recovered. In the night they frequently
carry off the droves of travellers' horses; and even come within
a few miles of St. Antonio, and entice away the horses in the
vicinity. The method pursued by the Spaniards in taking them is
as folioM'S: they take a few fleet horses and proceed into the country
where the wild animals are numerous; they build a large inclo-
sure, with a door which enters into a smaller inclosure: from the
entrance of the large pen they project wings out into the prairie to
a great distance, and then set up bushes, &c. to induce the horses
when pursued to enter within these wings. After these preparations
are made, they keep a look out for a small drove ; for if they unfortu-
nately should start too large a one, they either burst open the pen or
fill it up with the dead bodies, and the remainder run over them and
escape; in which case the party is obliged to leave the place, as the
stench arising from the putrid carcasses would be insupportable, and
in addition to this, the pen would not receive others. But should
they succeed in driving in a few, say two or three hundred, they
select the handsomest and youngest, noose them, and take them into
the small inclosure, then turn out the others. After which, by starv-
ing, preventing them from taking any repose, and continually keep-
GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
ing them in motion, they subdue them by ddgrees, and finally break
them to submit to the saddle and bridle. For this business I pre-
sume there is no nation in the world »uperior to the Spaniards of
Tews.
Papulatioii and chief IW'w**—St. Antonio, the capital of the prcv-
yince, lies in 29° 5O' N. latitude, 101" W. longitude; is situated
on the head waters of the river of that name, and perhaps contains t\vo
thousand souls, unost of whom reside in miserable mud-wall houses,
covered with thatch grass roofs; the town is laid out on a very grand
plan: to the,east of it on the other side of the ri.very is the station
of the troops. About two, three, and four miles from St. Antonio
are tJ^e missions, formerly flottrishimg and prosperotss. These
buildiags for solidity, accommodation,, and even majesty, were sur-
passed by few that'I met withi in New Spain. The resident pfiest
treated us with the greatest hospitality, and was respected and
b,ek>v'e<jl bj)f aJH, who knew him.- He made a singular observation re*-
la^ive to t&e Aborigines, who had formerly formed the pof«i4ati'on of
t)jesfi: establishwenis under tihe cfearweof the monkis. 1 asked him
ad becoaie of-the natives? He replied, that it appeared Id
, that thejy eould not exist uadec the shadow of the whites, a$
natifjqs. who,formed^these missions had been nurtured and taken
all. the care e£ that was possible, and put ora the same footing as
t^e.,$psmiarii9j ^yet, they had notwithstanding dwindled aAvayv until
the other two had become entirely depopulated; and Uie on«
he resided had not more thm sufficient to perform his;
labour. From this he had formed an idea that God nevei* intended
them to form one people,, but that they should always remain dis-
tinct and separate,
I^acogdoches i». merely aj station/ ibr troopsi and contains nftavly
five hundre4 souls; it is- situated on.,a small stream of the rivet
•
.
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN.
'The population of Texas, may be estimated at seven thousand;
these are principally Spanish Creoles; some French, some Americans,
and a few civilized Indians and half breeds.
Trade and Commerce.—This province trades with Mexico, by
IVlontelrey and Montelovez for merchandize, and with New Or-
leans by Natchiloches; but the latter being contraband, is liable to
great damage and risks: they give in return specie, horses, and
mules.
Agriculture.—The American emigrants are introducing some little
spirit of agriculture near to Nacogdoches and the Trinity; but the
oppression and suspicions they labour under, prevents their pro^
ceeding with that vigour which is necessary to give success to the
establishment of a new country.
Aborigines.—The Tancards are a nation of Indians who rove on
the banks of Red river, and are six hundred men strong; they follow
the buffalo and wild horses, and carry on a trade with the Spaniards.
They are armed with the bow, arrow, and lance; are errant and
confined to no particular district. They are a tall handsome people:
in conversation they have a peculiar clucking, and express more by
signs than any savages I ever visited; in fact language appears to
have made less progress than among any other. They complain much
of their situation and the treatment of the Spaniards, are extremely
poor, and, except the Appaches, were the most independent In-
dians we observed in the Spanish territories: they possess large
droves of horses. There are a number of other nations, now nearly
extinct, some of which are mentioned by Doctor Sibley, in a report
he made to the government on these subjects. A few, and very few
indeed, of these nations have been converted by the missions, and
these are not in that state of vassalage which the Indians farther to
the south are held in.
Government and Laws.—Perfectly military, except as to the eccle-
siastical jurisdiction.
3 B
370 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON -
Morals and Manners.—Being on the frontiers where buffalo and
wild horses abound in great numbers, and not engaged in any war
with savages who are powerful, they have adopted a mode of living
by following those animals, which has been productive of a more
errant disposition round the capital (St. Antonio) than in any other
of the provinces. But Cordero, by restricting (by edicts) the buf-
falo hunts to certain seasons, and obliging every man of family to
cultivate so many acres of land, has in some degree checked the
spirit of hunting, or wandering life, which had been hitherto so very
prevalent; and has endeavoured to introduce by his example and
precepts, a general urbanity and suavity of manners, which ren-
dered St. Antonio one of the most agreeable sejours that we met
with in the provinces.
Military Force.—There were in Texas at the time I came through,
nine hundred and eighty-eight men, from the actual returns of the
troops which I have seen; two hundred of whom were from St.
Ander and New Leon, under the command of Governor Herrara.
The disposition of those troops are as follows: three hundred and
eighty-eight at St. Antonio, four hundred at the cantonment of
, on the Trinity; one hundred at the Trinity, and one
hundred at Nacogdoches. The militia (a rabble) are made the more
respectable by a few American rifle-men, who are incorporated
among them; they are about three hundred in number, including bow
and arrow men. . .
Religion.—Catholic, but much relaxed.
History.—To me unknown, except what might be extracted from
various authors on that subject.
General Remarks on New Spain,—To become acquainted with all
the civil and political institutions of a country, requires a perfect
knowledge of the language, a free ingress to the archives, and a resi-
dence of some years. Even then AVB can scarcely distinguish between
the statute law and the common law, derived from custom, morals,
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 371
and habits: under these circumstances it cannot be expected that I
should be able to say much on the subject, as I possess none of the
above advantages; but I will offer a few observations.
To a stranger, it is impossible to defme the limits of the military
and ecclesiastical jurisdictions, in every affair which relates to the
citizens; and, in fact, with the soldiery the force of superstition is
such, that I am doubtful whether they would generally obey one of
their officers in direct violation of the injunction of their religious
profession. The audiences of Mexico and Guadalaxara were form-
ed, no doubt, as a check on the immense power of the Vice-roy.
The number of members composing each, is to me unknown; but
they are formed of the Vice-roy as president with two votes, gene-
rals, and bishops. To their jurisdiction, the appeals from the judg-
ment of the intendants, and all subordinate officers, may be made
in civil cases; but the military and ecclesiastical decisions are
distinct: yet for all this semblance of justice, should an individual
dare to make the appeal, and not succeed in establishing the justice
of his claim to redress, he is certainly ruined. And where justice
is so little attended to when opposed to power and wealth, as in the
Spanish provinces, the appeal is a desperate remedy. This tribunal,
or legislative body, enacts all the laws for the general regulations of
their divisions of the kingdom.
The captain generalship of the internal provinces appeared to
me to be much more despotic, for the laws or regulations were
issued in the form of an order, merely, without any kind of a pre-
amble whatsoever, except sometimes it was said, "by order of
the king." And such was the style of the governors of provinces.
Morals, Manners, $c. For hospitality, generosity, docility, and
sobriety, the people of New Spain exceed any nation perhaps on
the globe: but in national energy, or patriotism, enterprize of cha-
racter, and independence of soul, they are perhaps the most deficient.'
Yet there are men who have displayed bravery to a surprizing'
SB 2
373 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
degree, and the Europeans who are there, cherish with delight the
idea of their gallant ancestry. Their women, have black eyes and
hair, fine teeth, and are generally brunettes. I met but one excep-
tion to this rule at Chihuahua, of a fair lady, and she by way of
distinction was called the girl with light hair. They are all inclin-
ing a little to en bon point, but none (or few) are elegant figures.
Their dresses are generally short jackets and petticoats, and high heel-
shoes, without any head dress; over this they have a silk wrapper
which they always wear, and when in the presence of men affect to
bring it over their faces; but as we approached the Atlantic and our
frontiers, we saw several ladies who wore the gowns of our country
women, which they conceive to be more elegant than their ancient
custom. The lower class of the men are generally dressed in broad
brimmed hats, short coats, large waistcoats and small clothes, always
open at the knees, owing, I suppose, to the greater freedom it gives
to the limbs on horseback, a, kind of leather boot or wrapper bound
round the leg, somewhat in the manner of our frontier men's leggins,
and gartered on. The boot, is of a soft pliable leather, but not
coloured. In the eastern provinces the dragoons wear over this
wrapper a sort of jack-boot made of seal leather, to which are
fastened the spurs by a rivet, the gaffs of which are sometimes
near an inch in length. But the spurs of the gentlemen and officers,
although clumsy to our ideas, are freqently ornamented with raised
silver work on the shoulders, and the strap embroidered with silver-
and gold thread. They are always ready to mount their horses, on
which the inhabitants of the internal provinces spend nearly hajfi
the day. This description will apply generally for the dress of all
the men of the provinces for the lower class, but in the towns,
amongst the more fashionable ranks, they, dress after the European
or United States mode, with not more distinction than we see in our
cities from one six months to another. Both men and women have
remarkably fine hair, and pride themselves in the display of it. ;.
Their amusements are music, singing, dancing, and gambling; the
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 873
latter is strictly prohibited, but the prohibition is not much attended
to. The dance of is performed by one man and two women, who
beat time to the music, which is soft and voluptuous, but sometimes
changes to a lively gay air, whilst the dancers occasionally exhibit
the most indelicate gestures. The Whole of this dance impressed
me with the idea of an insolated society of once civilized beings,
but now degenerated into a medium state, between the improved
world and the children of nature. The fandango is danced in
various figures and numbers. The minuet is still danced by the
superior class only; the music made use of is the guitar, violin, and
singers, who in the first described dance, accompany the music
with their hands and voices, having always some words adapted to
the music, which are generally of such a tendency as would in the
United States occasion every lady to leave the room.
Their games are cards, billiards, horse-racing, and cock-fighting,
the first and last of which are carried to the most extravagant lengths,
the parties loosing and winning immense sums. The present com-
mandant-general is very severe with his officers in these respects,
frequently sending them to some frontier post, in confinement for'
months, for no other fault than having lost large sums at play.
At every town of consequence is a public walk, where the ladies
and gentlemen meet and sing songa, which are always on, the subject
of love, or the social board. The females have fine voices and sing
in French, Italian, and Spanish, the whole company joining in the
chorus. In their houses the ladies play on the guitar, and generally
accompany it with their voices. They either sit down on the carpet?
cross-legged, or loll on a sofa. To sit upright in a chair appeared to
put them to great inconvenience, and although the better class would
sometimes do it on our first introduction, they soon demanded liberty
to follow their old habits* In their eating and drinking they are' re-
markably temperate. Early in the morning you receive a dish of
chocolaie.and a cake; at twelve you dine on several dishes of meat;
fowls, and. fish; after, which you have a variety of confectionary,
374 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
and indeed an elegant desert: then drink a few glasses of wine, sing
a few songs, and retire to take the siesta, or afternoon nap, which is
done by rich and poor; and about two o'clock the windows and doors
are all closed, the streets deserted, and the stillness of midnight reigns
throughout. About four o'clock they rise, wash and dress, and pre-
pare for the dissipation of the night. About eleven o'clock some
refreshments are offered, but few take any, except a little wine and
water and a little candied sugar.
The government have multiplied the difficulties for Europeans
mixing with the Creoles or Mestis, to such a degree, that it is difficult
for a marriage to take place. An officer wishing to marry a lady
not from Europe, is obliged to acquire certificates of the purity of her
descent for two hundred years back, and transmit them to the court,
when the licence will be returned; but should she be the daughter
of a person of the rank of captain or upwards, this nicety vanishes,
as their rank purifies the blood of the descendants.
The general subjects of the conversation of the men are women,
money, and horses, which appear to be the only objects in their
estimation, worthy of consideration. Having united the female
sex with their money and their beasts, and treated them too much
after the manner of the latter, they have eradicated from their
breasts every sentiment of virtue, or of ambition, to pursue the
acquirements which would make them amiable companions, instruc-
tive mothers, or respectable members of society. Their whole souls,
with a few exceptions, like the Turkish ladies, are taken up in
music, dress, and the little blandishments of voluptuous dissipa-
tion. Finding that the men only require these as objects of gratifi-
cation to the sensual passions, they have lost every idea of the feast
of reason and the flow of soul which arise from the intercourse of
two refined and virtuous minds, whose inmost thoughts are open to
the inspection and admiration of each other, and whose refinements
of sentiment heighten the pleasures of every gratification. •i
The beggars of the city of Mexico alone are estimated at sixty-
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 575
thousand souls, what must be th6 number through the whole
dom? And what reason can it be owing to, that, in a country
superior to any in the world for riches in gold and silver, producing
all the necessaries of life, and most of its luxuries, there should be
such a vast proportion of the inhabitants in want of 'bread and
clothing? It can only be accounted for by the tyranny of the
government, and the luxuries of the rich; the government striving
by all the local restrictions possibly to be invented, without ab-
solutely driving the people to desperation, to keep Spanish America
dependent on Europe. •:
Trade, Commerce, Manufactures, and Revenue.— The trade and com-
merce of New Spain arfe carried on with Europe and the United States
by the port of Vera Cruz solely, and with the East Indies and South
America by Acapulco, and even then under such restrictions of pro-
ductions, manufactures, and time, as to render it almost of no conse-
quence as to the general prosperity of the country. Were all the
numerous bays and harbours of the Gulph of Mexico and California
opened to the trade of the world, a,nd a general licence given to the
cultivation of all the productions which the country is capable of
yielding, with freedom of exportation and importation, with proper
duties on foreign goods, the country would immediately become rich
and powerful, a proper stimulus would be held out to the poor to
labour, when certain of finding a quick and ready sale for the pro-
ductions of their plantations or manufactories. The country abounds
in iron ore, yet all the iron and steel, and articles of manufactures,
are obliged to be brought from Europe, the manufacturing or
working of iron being strictly prohibited. This occasions the neceS'
sary utensils of husbandry, arms, and tools, to be enormously high, and
forms a great check to agriculture, improvements in manufactures,
and military skill. The works of the Mexicans in gold, silver, and
painting, shew them naturally to have a genius, which, with cultiva-
tion and improvement, might rival the greatest masters of either
376 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
ancient or modern schools. Their dispositions and habits are pecu-
liarly calculated for sedentary employments, and I have no doubt, if
proper establishments were made, they would soon rival, if not sur-
pass, the most extensive woollen, cotton or silk manufactures of
Europe. Their climate is adapted for raising the finest cotton in the
world, and their sheep possess all the fineness of wool, for which they
are so celebrated in Spain. Besides this they have immense quan-
tities of raw materials, which they have on hand, wool selling for a
mere song, and in fact they scarcely take the half from the fleece of
the sheep for the coarse manufactories of the country, and for making
beds.
I cannot presume to state the revenues of the country, but am cre-
dibly informed, that the mint coins per annum at least fifty millions of
dollars in silver, and fourteen millions of dollars in gold, the one-fifth
of which amounts to twelve millions eight hundred thousand. The
duties on foreign goods, and the amount paid by the purchasers of mo-
nopoly, may make four millions more, which would make the annual
revenue sixteen millions eight hundred thousand. The civil list of the
kingdom amounts to five hundred and eighty thousand. The military;
seven millions one hundred and eighty-nine thousand two hundred,
making with the civil list seven millions seven hundred and sixty
thousand two hundred, which deducted from sixteen millions eight
hundred thousand, leaves a clear revenue for the king from his
Mexican dominions of nine millions thirty thousand eight hundred.
The clergy are not included in this estimate, as they receive their
revenues through their own proper channel, and although the best
paid officers in the government cost the king nothing in a direct way,
yet the dreadful manner in which they oppress and impoverish his
subjects, would render it better policy to abolish their impositions
and pay them a direct salary out of the public treasury.
,
373 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
The European troops are some of the choicest regiments from
Spain, consequently we may put them on the supposition, that they
are well diciplined and officered by men of honour and science.
The regular troops of the kingdom, who are in the vice-royalty,
acting from the stimulus of ambition and envy, are supposed to be
equal to their brethren from Europe. The militia with the regular
officers are likewise good troops, but are not held in such high
• estimation as the other corps. These three corps, forming a body
of twenty three thousand two hundred and eighty-eight men, may
be called the regular force of the kingdom, as the militia of one
hundred and thirty-nine thousand five hundred, would in my esti-
mation be of no more consequence against the regular troops of
any civilized power, than the ancient Aborigines of the country
were against the army of Cortes. The particular observations which
follow, must be considered as applying to the troops of the internal
provinces, unless specified to the contrary. The appearance of the
Spanish troops is certainly (at a distance) d, la militaire. Their
lances are fixed to the side of the saddle under the left thigh, and
slant about five feet above the horse; on the right the carabine is
slung in a case to the front of the saddle (or pummel) crossways,
the breech to the right hand, and on each side of the saddle behind
the rider is a pistol; below the breech of the carabine is slung the
shield, which is made of sole leather trebled, 'sewed together with
thongs, with a band on the inside, to slip the left arm through; those
of the privates are round, and about two feet diameter. The officers
and non-commissioned officers have them of an oval form, bending
on both sides, in order to permit the arrow to glance, and they have
in general the arms of Spain with Don Carlos the fourth, gilt on the
outside, with various other devices, which add much to the elegance
of their appearance on horseback, but are only calculated to be of
service against savages, who have no fire-arms. The dragoons of the
V THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 370
.vice-royalty do not make use of the lance or shield, but are armed,
-equipped, and clothed after the modern manner, as are also the
dragoons of the eastern provinces. When they recently expected
to be opposed by the American troops, they were deprived of their
•lance and shield, and received the straight cutlass in their stead.
, Their dress is a short blue coat, with a red cape and cuif without
facings, leather or blue cotton velvet small clothes and waistcoat;
•the small clothes always open at the knees : the wrapping boot with
the jack boot, and permanent spurs over it; a broad brimmed high
crowned, wool feat with a ribbon round it of various colours, generally
received as a present from some female, which they wear as a badge
of the favour of the fair se*, and a mark of their gallantry.
Their horses are small and slender limbed, but very agile, and arc
'capable of enduring great fetigue. The equipments of the horses
ore, to our ideas, awkward, but I believe them superior to tl»e
English, and they have the advantage over us, as to the skill of the
•rider as well as the quality of the horse, as their bridles have
a strong curb which gives them so great a mechanical force that I
believe it almost practicable with it to break the jaw of' the horse.
The saddle is made after the Persian model, with a high projecting
pummel, or, as anciently termed, bow, and is likewise raised behind;
this is merely the tree. It is then covered by two or three coats of
carved leather, and embroidered workmanship, some with gold and
silver in a very superb manner. The stirrups are of wood closed in
front, carved generally in the figure of a lion's head or some other
beast; they are very beavy, and to us present a very clumsy appear-
ance. The horseman seated on his horse has a small bag jtied bo-
hind him, his blankets either under him or lying with his blook
between his body and the bow,-Which makes him at his; dase., fOuis
mounted it is impossible for the most vicious animals to dismount
them. T'bey.will catch anothet^orssj wh^n fe0th
S80 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
at full speed, with a noose and hair rope, with which they wifl soon
•> choak down the beast they are pursuing. In short, they are pro-
bably the most expert horsemen in the world. . •.-: i . . ,
At each port is a store, called the king's, where it was the origi-
nal intention of the government that the soldiers should be supplied
* with provisions, clothing, arms, &c. at a cheap rate; but it being
a post generally given to some young officer to make his fortune,
they are subject to great impositions. When a dragoon joins the
service he receives from the king five horses and two mules, and
this number he is always obliged to keep good from his own pocket;
but when he is discharged, the horses and mules receive the dis-
charge mark, and become his private property. They engage for
five or ten years, at the option of the soldier. But in the bounty
there is a very material difference. It is extremely easy to keep up
the corps, as a private dragoon considers himself upon an equality
with most of the citizens, and infinitely superior to the lower class;
and it is not Unfrequent to see men of considerable fortune marry*
ing the daughters of sergeants and corporals.
The pay of the troops of New Spain varies with the locality,
but may be averaged in the internal provinces as follows :.
A colonel, four thousand five hundred dollars per annum; lieu-
tenant-colonel, four thousand; major, three thousand; captain,
two thousand four hundred; first lieutenant, one thousand five
hundred; second lieutenant, one thousand; ensign, eight hundred;
sergeant, three hundred and fifty; corporal, three hundred; private,
two hundred and eighty-eight. With this pay they find their own
clothes, provisions, arms, accoutrements, &c. after the first equip-
ments. '. i
Corporal punishment is contrary to the Spanish ordinances; they
puoo&fyimprisonment, putting ki the stocks, and death; but as
a jetnarkable instance of the discipline and regularity of conduct
of the provincial troops, I may mention, that although marching
T THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. SBl
with them, and doing duty as it were for nearly four months, I
never saw a man receive a blow, or put under confinement for one
hour. How impossible would it be to regulate the turbulent dispo-
sitions of the Americans with such treatment? In making the forgo-
ing remark, I do not include officers, for I saw more rigorous treat-
ment exercised towards some of them than ever was practised in
our army.
The discipline of their troops is very different from ours: as to
tactics, or military manoeuvres, they are not held in much estima-
tion; for during the whole of the time I was in the country, I never
saw a corps of troops exercising as dragoons, but frequently inarch-
ing by platoons, sections, &c. in garrison, where they serve as
infantry, with their carabines. In these manO3uvres they were also
very deficient. On a march, a detachment of cavalry generally
encamp in a circle. They relieve their guards at night, and as soon
as they halt the new guard is formed on foot, with their carabines,
and then march before the commandant's tent, where the command-
ing officer of the guard cries the invocation of the Holy Virgin three
times. The commanding officer replies, it is well. They then retire
and mount their horses, and are told off, some to act as guard of
the horses, as cavalry; others as guard of the camp, as infantry.
The old guards are then paraded and relieved, and the new centinels.
take post. The centinels are singing half their time, and it is nq
uncommon thing for them to quit their post to come to the fire, go.
for water, &c. In fact, after the officer is in bed, frequently .the
whole guard comes in; yet I never knew any man punished foe
these breaches of military duty. .. .. . , ,u,
Their mode of attack is by squadrons on the different flanks of,
their enemies, but without regularity or concert, shouting, hallooing,
and firing their carabines, after which, it they think themselves,
equal to the enemy, they charge with a pistol and then th& lanse^
.*. M: ..'. , . .,' t v
383 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
Butffirotn farjr observation* on their discipline, I have no hesitation in
declaring that 1'woiM tiot be afraid to march over a plain with
five hundred infantry, and a proportionate allowance of horse .artit-
fery of the United States army.; m> ttee presence' of five thousand; of
these dragoons. Yet, I do riofrpfesurrtfc to say, that an army with
that inferiority of numbers would etc* to Oppose them, for they would
cut off}'our supplies, and harrass your march and camp night and
day, to such a degree as -to oblige you irt the end to surrender to
Ihern without ever having cofiieXttoi feetfon; but if the event depended
on one engagement, it would terminate with glory to the American
arms. The conclusion must not however be drawn, that I infer from
this, they are deficient irt physical firmness more tban other nations.
for we see the savages, five hundred of whom Would on a plain fly
before fifty bayonets, on other «deasions brave 'danger and death
in its most horrid shapes, with dn Undaunted fortitude, never sup-
passed by the most disciplined and hardy veterans. But it arise*
solely from the want of discipline and confidence in each other*
as is always the case with undisciplined corps; unless stimulated bj
the god-like- sentiment of l6ve 'of: Country, which these poor/ fellows
know nothing'of.'" a;n•"» «"!•i •'' • '--- J -i • fJ J'n • i .'.•«
The travelling food of the dragoons in Netv Mexico, 'consists ofa
Very excfefteht species of wlieat biscuit, and shaved meat well dried*
\vith a vns't cfttelfrtity bfred poppfei"^ of which they'make bouilh and
then pour it on their broken'biscuit, when it becomes soft and excefr-
lent eating. Farther sotftli they'use great quantities of-parched corn*
meal and sugar, as practised hy'our Banters, each dmgoon having a
small bag. They thus live, when otfi'eommand^ 'inn an allowance
which our troops would coneiel¥b'little better than, starving, ndver
except at ftigrit attempting toi eat any thiftgilikfe:* riieiil, birtbiting a
piece of biscuit, or drinking sotoe- parcfeed^Hieat' and 'sugar, with
•svater crttrlng the day.' -• ;"<<";'' _ --'^ *<.'>dl .v;: , ,^ c\ iiiri
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 383
From the physical as well as moral properties of the inhabitants
of New Spain, I do believe they are capable of being made the best
troops in the world, possessing sobriety, 'enterprise, great physical
force, docility, and a conception equally quick and penetrating. V
The modes:of promotion in the internal provinces are singular,
but probably productive of good effects. Should a vacancy of first
lieutenant offer in a company, the captain commanding nominates,
with the senior second lieutenant (who by seniority would fill the
vacancy) two other lieutenants to the general, giving his comments
on the three. The general selects two, for nomination to the
court, from whom is selected the fortunate candidate, whose com-
mission is made out and forwarded. As the letters of nomination are
always kept secret, it is impossible for the young officers to say,
who is to blame, should they be disappointed, and the fortunate is in.
a direct way to thank the king only for the" ultimate decision. The
method is the same with the superior grades to the colonel.
The king of Spain's ordinances for the government of his: army are
generally founded on justice and a high sense of honour: I could
not procure a set from any of the officers to take to my: quarters,
consequently rny observations on them were extremely cursory.
They provide that no old soldier shall ever be discharged the service
unless for infamous crimes. When a man has senved with reputa*
tion for fifteen years an 1 continues, his pay is augmented, twenty
years he receives another augmentation; twenty-seven years he re-
ceives the brevet rank and pay of an ensign, and thirty-two those of a
lieutenant, £c. These circumstances are a great stimulus, although not
one in a thousand arrive at the third period, when they are permitted
to retire from the service with full pay and emoluments. All sons
of captains, or of grades superior, are entitled to enter the king's
school as ca lets, at the age of twelve years. The property of aa
officer or soldier, who is killed on the field of battle, or dies of his
384 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
wounds, is not. liable to be taken for debt, and is secured, as well as
the king's pension, to the relatives of the deceased.
Court martials for the trial of a commissioned officer, must be
formed of general officers; but this clause subjects the officers of
the provinces to a great species of tyranny, for the commaiiding-
general has taken upon himself to punish for all offences not capital,
consequently according to his own judgment and prejudices, and
from which there is only an appeal to the king. Difficult indeed
must it be for the complaints of a subaltern to reach the ears of his
majesty through the numerous crowds of sycophants who surround
him, one half of whom are probably in league with the oppressor.
This practice likewise deprives an officer of the most sacred of all
rights, the being tried by his peers, for should he be sent to Mexico
Or Europe for trial, it is possible he may not be able to take half the
testimony which is necessary to his complete justification.
There is another principle defined by the ordinances which has.
often been the cause of disputes in the service of the United States,
viz. The commandant of a post in the Spanish service, if barely a
captain, receives no orders from a general, should one arrive at his
post, unless that general should be superior in authority to the
person who posted him; for, says the ordinance, he is responsible to
the king alone for his post. This principle, according to my ideas, is
very injurious to the interest of any country that adopts it. We will
say for example that a post of great importance, containing immense
military stores, is likely to fall into the hands of the enemy ; a
superior officer to the commandant receives the information, and
repairs to the post, and orders him immediately to evacuate it.
The commandant feeling himself only responsible to the authority
who placed him in that position, refuses to obey, and the magazines
and place are lost! The principle is likewise subversive of the very
foundation of military subordination and discipline, whereby an in*
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN, 385
ferior should, in all cases obey a superior, who alone should be
responsible for the effect arising from the execution of his orders. It
will reaidily be believed, that in thus advocating implicit obedience
to the orders of a superior, 1 do not suppose the highest improbabi",
lities., or impossibilities, such as a command from him to turn your
arms against the constituted authority of your country, or to be an
engine .of his' tyranny, or.the pander of his vices; these are cases
wherein a mans'reason alone must direct him, and are not and can-
not be subject to any human rule whatever.
Religion. Its forms are topics with which I am very imperfectly
acquainted, but having made some enquiries and observations on the
subject, I will freely communicate them, fearful at the same, time
that I, may lay myself open to the severe criticism of persons who
have in any degree applied themselves to the study of theology or the
ritualof the Catholic church. .... ~- ...:
..The kingdom .of New Spain is divided into, four archbishopricks,
viz. Mexico, Guadalaxara, Durango, and St. Luis Potosi; under
these again are the subbishopricks, Deacons, Curates, .&c. each of
whom is subject and accountable to his immediate chiefs, for the dis-
tricts committed to, his charge, and the whole are again subject to
the ordinances of the high court of inquisition, held at the capital of
Mexico; .whence, are fulminated the edicts of censure against the
heresies and impious doctrines of the modern philosophy both as to
politics and religion. I am credibly informed that the influence
of that tribunal is greater in his catholic majesty's Mexican domi-
nions, than in any catholic country in Europe, or perhaps in the
world. A few years since they condemned a man to the flames, for
asserting and maintaining some doctrine which they deemed heretical;
and also a Jew who was imprudent enough to take the image of
Christ from the cross and put it under the sill of his door, saying
privately, He would make the dogs walk over their God. This court
likewise examines and condemns all books of a modern sentiment
"3 D
386 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
either as to religion or politics, and excommunicates any one in
whose hands they may be found. I recollect to have seen one of its
decrees published in the Mexican gazette, 'condemning a number
of books as heretical and contrary to the sacred principles of the
Holy Catholic Church, and the peace and durability of the govern-
ment of his catholic majesty. Amongst these were mentioned Hel-
vetius on man, J. J. Rousseau's Works, Voltaire's, Mirabeau's, and
a number of others of that description, and even at so great a dis-
tance as Chihuahua an officer dared not take Pope's Essay on Man
to his quarters, but used to come to mine to read it.
The salaries of the archbishops are superior to those of any officers
in the kingdom, that of the bishop of Mexico being estimated at one
hundred and fifty thousand dollars per annum, while the Viceroy, has
but eighty thousand, aud fifty thousand allowed for his table, falling
short of the bishop twenty thousand dollars. These incomes are
raised entirely from the people, who pay no tax to the king, but
give one-tenth of their yearly income to the clergy; besides the fees of
confessions, bulls, burials, baptisms, marriages and a thousand other
impositions, which the corruption of priestcraft has introduced, and
have been kept up by the superstition and ignorance of the people.
Notwithstanding all this, the inferior clergy who do all the slavery
of the office, are liberal and well informed men. I scarcely saw
one who was not in favour of a change of government. They being
generally Creoles by birth, and always kept in subordinate grades,
without the least shadow of a probability of rising to the superior
dignities of the church, their minds have been soured to such a
degree that I am confident in asserting they will lead the van
whenever the standard of independence is raised in the country.
Politics. It has often been a subject of discussion with politicians,
in what manner a mother country should treat her distant and
powerful colonies, in order to retain them the longest in their sub-
iection. For the history of all nations and all ages has proved, that
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 387
no community of people separated from another by an immense
ocean, feeling their power, strength, and independence, will remain
long subject to the parent state purely from the ties of consan-
guinity and similiarity of habits, manners, and religion. Society
itself having arisen from the mutual wants, fears, and imbecility of
the infancy of human institutions, a large body of that society will
remain no longer subject to another branch, at the immense dis-
tance of a thousand leagues, than until they feel their maturity and
capability of providing for their own wants, and their own defence.
We may, therefore, draw a conclusion that no political course of
conduct whatever will eventually prevent their separation. But there
is a line of conduct which certainly must retard it in a great mea-
sure, and prudence would dictate to the mother country the policy
of giving way without a struggle to an event beyond her power to
prevent. The two great examples of English and Spanish America
are before our eyes. England gave us free liberty to pursue the
dictates of our own judgment with respect to trade, education, and
manners, by which means we increased in power, learning, and
wealth, with a rapidity unexampled in the annals of the world; and,
on the first attempt to infringe the rights which we had enjoyed,
asserted that claim which nature and the locality of our situation
gave us a right to demand, and power to defend. Had Great
Britain yielded to the storm with grace and dignity, she would have
secured our gratitude, ancient prejudices, and affections in her
favour; but by a long and arduous conflict, the murder of thousands
of our citizens, the destruction of the country, the profanation of
our alters, and the violation of every right divine and human, she
implanted into the breasts of the Americans an antipathy, approach-
ing nearly to horror, a desire of revenge almost hereditary, and de-
stroyed the bonds of brotherhood that might have subsisted be-
tween the two countries, and it will take ages of just conduct from
her to the United States to rectify the evil. Spain pursued a diffe-
3 D2
388 GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS ON
rent line of conduct towards her Mexican dominions, which were
settled by Europeans sixty years previous to any part of the United
States, and might be termed a conquered kingdom, rather than
.the settlement of a savage country. This country she has therefore
bound up in all the ligatures of restrictions, monopolies, prohibi-
tions, seclusions, and superstition; and she has so carefully secluded
all light from bursting in on their ignorance, that they have vege-
tated like the acorn in the forest; until the tOAvering branches have
broken through the darkness of the wild which surrounded them and
•.• let in the light of heaven. The approximation of the United States,
with the gigantic strides of French ambition, have begun to rouse
up their dormant qualities, and to call into motion the powers of
their minds, on the subject of~their political situation. Instances of
their disposition for independence were exhibited in their feeble at-
tempts at a revolution on the 15th of January 1694, under the vice-
royalty of Don Diego Carrello Galves. The insurrection on the Sth
of Jane, 1692; and more recently in 1797 under the Count de
Galves, when they proclaimed him king of Mexico, in the streets of
the capital, and one hundred and thirty thousand souls were heard
proclaiming, "Long live Galves king of Mexico." It Was then only
for him to have willed it, and the kingdom of Mexico was lost to
Charles the fourth for ever. But preferring his loyalty to his ambition^
he rode out to the mob, attended by his guards, with his sword in
hand, crying out, "Long live his catholic majesty Charles the
fourth," and threatening to put to instant death with his own hand,
any persons who refused immediately to retire to their houses. This
dispersed the people. In another quarter of the kingdom an.
immense number had collected and proclaimed him king, he sent
ten thousand men against them, dispersed them, and had four be-
headed. These firm measures saved the country at that period..
Galves received the greatest honours from the court of Spain,, but
was poisoned in a short time after, fulfilling the maxim, "That it is-
THE INTERIOR OF NEW SPAIN. 389
dangerous to serve jealous tyrants," for they always conceive that
the same power who stilled the ocean's rage, can at will raise the
storm into all the majesty of overwhelming fury. Thus by taking
his life, the court of Spain was relieved from the dread of his in-
fluence over the Mexicans. England would naturally have been
the power they would have looked up to in order to form an alliance
to.secure their independence; but the insatiable avarice and hauteur
exhibited by that nation in her late descent at La Plata, with the
disgrace of her arms, has turned their views to other quarters.
They have therefore directed their eyes^towards the United States,
as brethren of the same soil in their vicinity; who have within their
power ample resources of arms, ammunition, and even men, tb assist
in securing their independence; and wno in that event would secure
to themselves the almost exclusive trade of the richest country
in the world for centuries, and to be her carriers as long as the
two nations exist. For Mexico, like China, will never become a
nation of mariners, but must receive the ships of all the world into
her ports, and give her bullion in exchange for the productions of
their different countries. What would not be the advantages-the
» o
United States would reap from this event? out* numerous vessels
would fill every port, and from our vicinity enable us to carry -off at
least nine-tenths of her commerce. Even on the coast of the Pacific
no European nation could vie with us: there would also be a brisk
inland trade carried on with the southern provinces via Red river,,
and having a free entrance into all their ports, we should become
their factors, agents, guardians, and, in short, their tutelar genius;
as the country fears but hates France and all Frenchmen and mea-
sures. It therefore remains for the government of the United States
to decide, whether^ if Buonaparte should seize on the crown of
Spain, they will hold out a helping hand, to emancipate another
portion of the western hemisphere from the bonds of European'
tyranny and oppression, or by a different policy suffer six hundred
SPG GEOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS, &c.
thousand people to become in the hands of French intrigue,
enterprise, and tactics, a scourge to our south western boundaries,
which would oblige us to keep up a large and respectable military
force, and continually render us liable to a war, on the weakest and
most vulnerable part of our frontiers?
Twenty thousand auxiliaries from the United States under good
officers, joined to the independence of the country, are at any
tune sufficient to create and effect the revolution. Those troops can
be raised and officered in the United States, but must be paid and
supported at the expence of Mexico. It would be requisite, that, not
only the general commanding, but every officer, down to the young-
est ensign, should be impressed with the necessity of supporting a
strict discipline, to prevent marauding, which should in some in-
stances be punished with death, in order to evince to the citizens
that you came as their friends and protectors, not as their plun-
derers and tyrants. Also the most sacred regard should be had
not to injure the institutions of their religion. Thereby shewing
them we had a proper respect to all things in any way connected
with the worship of the deity; while at the same time we permitted
every man to adore him agreeably to the dictates of his own judg-
ment.
Z. M. PIKE,
Captain, First United States Regiment of Infantry.
Washington,
12th April, 1808.
391
APPENDIX.
(No. I.)
To General Wilkinson.
St. Charles, 1?th July, 1806.
DEAR SIR,
WE arrived here last evening all well, except some of the soldiers from fatigue, as in
the present state of the water we were obliged to row altogether.
We were disappointed in not obtaining any information from St. Louis, or baggage for
the Pawnees. I do not know how it will be digested by them.
********
We likewise were disappointed in not receiving a line from you, as we had expected,
in the hopes of which I shall yet detain until twelve o'clock, and then take my departure.
Our Osage conduct themselves pretty well, and are very obedient to orders; at first
they had an idea a little too free relative to other people's property, but at present stand
corrected.
I understood from you that they were equipped by Mr. Tillier, with every thing ne-
cessary for their voyage to their towns, consequently, although they have been applying
to me for a variety of articles, none of which they have been gratified with, but powder
and ball, which are necessary for their own defence.
The general will pardon this scrawl, and should he send an express after us, will please
to let Mrs. Pike know of the opportunity.
I am, dear Sir,
With high respect,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) Z.M. PIKE.
(No. II.)
To General Wilkinson.
St. Charles, \§th July, 1806.—In the morning.
DEAR GENERAL,
ENCLOSED you have one of the articles, subscribed by Mr. Henry, mentioned in my
note of yesterday. I hope the General may approve of the contents.
392 APPENDIX.
Lieut. Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson marched (with one soldier) this morning, and the
boats have proceeded under the conduct of Bellenger; I shall overtake them in an hour
or two.
Numerous reports have been made to the Indians, calculated to impress them with an
idea that there is a small army of their enemies waiting to receive us at the entrance of
the Grand Osage. But I have partly succeeded in scouting the idea from their minds.
No news of Chouteau nor the Pawnees' trunks.
I am, dear General,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) Z. M. PIKE.
(No. III.)
To General Wilkinson.
Village de Charette, evening of the ZZd July, 1806.
DEAR SIB,
FINDING no prospect of meeting with a private conveyance for our letters, in time
sufficient to find you previous to your setting sail, which would be entirely too late to
secure my deserter, and give you the other information they contain, I have hired the
bearer to ride express to Belle Fontaine, for which I have promised him eight dollars;
which, taking into view his ferriages, &c. cannot be deemed high, and I hope the
General will please to order the military agent to discharge the same.
The weather has at length become settled, and we set sail to-morrow with our boats
newly, and much better, arranged.
I am, General, with sincere esteem,
And •high respect,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) Z. M. PIKE.
To General Wilkinson.
Village de Charette, <2&d July, 1806.
DEAR GENERAL,
I HAVE the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your two obliging favours of the
18th and l<nh instant, the particular contents of each shall be punctually attended to.
I assure you, Sir, that I am extremely pleased with the idea that Messrs. —
and , will meet with their merited reward, and I on my part, am determined to
shew them, that it is not their sinister movements that can derange the objects of our
voyage; the greatest embarrassment they have yet occasioned me, has been by the de-
tention of the Pawnees' baggage, who have been much mortified on the occasion. But I
question much if under similar impressions and circumstances, many white men would
have borne their loss with more philosophy thaa our young savages.
APPENDIX. 393
I conceive that I cannot dispose of one of my guns better, than to give it to Frank,
•whose fusee was left at Chouteau's; also, each of them a soldier's coat; this is all the
remuneration I will pretend to make them, and I hope it may bring them to a good
humour.
You will probably be surprised at the slow progress we have made, but are already in-
formed of the cause of our detention at St. Charles. We have since been detained two days,
On account of the rain; and although we were able to prevent the water from entering
immediately on the top of the boat where it was covered, yet the quantity which she
made at both ends, occasioned so much dampness under the loading, as to injure both
my own corn, and that of the Indians, with other small articles, which they had at
various times taken from under the loading, and not returned to their proper places;
l>ut they appear satisfied that we have paid all possible attention to prevent injury, as-
much, and indeed more, to their baggage than our own.
In consequence of the above, (and with a design to write you) I halted here to-day,
which I hope we shall usefully employ in drying our baggage, cleaning our arms, and
putting ourselves in a posture of defence. Lieutenant Wilkinson has experienced no
inconvenience from his march by land with the Indians; and the event has proved the
necessity of some officer accompanying them, as he informs me he found it necessary
to purchase some beeves for their consumption on the route, for which he drew on the
•uperintendant of Indian affairs, and he will write to you more particularly on the subject.
They were absent from the boat four days, and had he not been with them, they would
have supplied themselves by marauding, to the great offence of our good citizens.
I am informed that a party of forty Sacs were at Boon's Lick, above the Osage river,
a few days since, but I by no means conceive on the route to intercept us, as the people
pretend at this place.
Three days since one of my men complained of indisposition, and went on shore to
march; he has never joined the party, and from various reasons, I conceive has deserted.
I have therefore enclosed an advertisement, which if the general will please to tause to
be posted at St. Louis, Kaskaskias, and Lusk's Ferry on the Ohio, I conceive tie will be
caught.
I have written to Captain Daniel Bissell on the occasion; but hope flie general will
enforce my request to that gentleman, as to his being brought to trial. I was much
mortified at the event, not only on account of the loss .of the man, but that my peculiar
situation prevented me from pursuing him, and making him an example.
With respect to the letans, the general may rest assured, I shall use every precaution
previous to trusting them; but as to the mode of conduct to be pursued towards the
Spaniards, I feel more at a loss, as my instructions lead me into the country of the
letans, part of which is no doubt claimed by Spain, although the boundaries between
Louisiana and New Mexico have never yet been defined. In consequence of which, should.
S E
594 APPENDIX.
I encounter a party from the villages near Santa Fe, I have thought it would be goocT
policy to give them to understand, that we were about to join our troops near Natchir
toches, but had been uncertain about the head waters of the rivers over which, we passed;
but, that now, if the commandant approved of it, we would pay him a visit of politeness)
either by deputation, or the whole party, but if he refused, signify our intention of pursu-
jng our di ect route to the post below. At all events I flatter myself I may secure an un*-
molested retreat to Natchitoches. But if the Spanish jealousy, and the instigation of
domestic traitors, should induce them to make us prisoners of war,, (in time of peace) I
trust to the magnanimity of our country for our Liberation, and a due reward to their
o] posers, for the insult and indignity offered their national honour. However, unless
they give us ample assurances of just and honourable treatment, according to the custom
of nations m like cases, I would resist, if even die inequality was as great as at die affair
of Bender, or the straits of Thermopylae.
Will you pardon the foregoing as the enthusiasm of a youthful mind, yet, not alto'
gether unimpressed by the dictates of prudence.
I hope the General will be persuaded, that with his son, I shall act as I would to a
brotlier, endeavouring in all cases to promote his honour and prosperity.
1 am, dear General,
v Your sincere friend,
And obedient humble servant*
(Signed) Z. M. PIKE..
N. B. In consequence of indisposition, &c. Lieutenant Wilkinson, will steer one boat
and I the other.
(No. IV.)
To General James Wilkinson*
Five leagues below the river Osage, 96th' July; 1806..
DEAR GENERAL,
I HALT a moment, in order to say we have arrived thus far all safe, although our
savages compkin much of fatigue, 8tc.
The bearer had been sent by Mr. Sangonet to examine the Osage river, and reports
that they could not get their canoes up the river more than sixty miles: if so, we have a;
bad prospect before us; but go we will, if God permits.
I am, dear General,
Your obedient, servant^
(Signed) Z.M.
We have been detained several days by the Indians,-
APPENDIX. 395
(No.V.)
To General James Wilkinson.
Park on the Osage river, 14M Aug. 1806.
DEAR SIR, ,
BY Baptiste la Tulip I send this letter, who informs me he bears letters to Chouteau,
informing him that a party of the Little Osages have marched to war against the Kanses;
and a party of the Grand Osages left the village expressly to make war on the white
people on the Arkansaw. This latter step the White Hair did every thing in his power
to prevent, but could not. If true, what are we to think of our bans amis the Osage?
But to must we ascribe the stroke against the Kanses, who I am informed sent
a message to the Osage nation to raze the Kanses village entirely. On this subject I
intended to have been more particular, and substantiate it by proofs; but present cir-
cumstances seem to give credibility to it. On my arrival at the village, more particular
enquiry shall be made on the subject.
Yesterday morning Lieutenant Wilkinson, the doctor, interpreter, and one soldier,
marched with the Indiana, as they were very apprehensive of an .attack. The people in'
the canoe heard them crying, and saw them on their march. ,
Nothing extraordinary has yet taken place on our route, except our being favoured
with a vast quantity of rain, which I hope will enable us to ascend to the village.
What face will the Indians receive us with? and to whom are we to ascribe their
hostile disposition, unless the traitors of St. Louis?
Lieutenant Wilkinson is in very good health, and will lament his having missed this
opportunity of assuring his parents of his love and affection.
I am, dear General,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) Z. M. PIKE.
{No, VL>
To Lieutenant Pike.
Cantonment, Missouri, August 6, 1806.
SIR,
IN consequence of the receipt of the inclosed letters, I have thought proper to send
you an express, to enable you to announce to the Osage the designs of their enemies,
that they may take seasonable measures to circumvent them. You will not fail, in ad-
dition to the within talk, to enhance our paternal regard for this nation, by every proper
expression; but are to keep clear of any conflict in which they may be involved, though
you are to avoid the appearance of abandoning them. If it should be the Potowatomies'
intention to carry their threat into execution, it is probable they will not attempt to
SE2
396 APPENDIX.
make the blow before the falling of the leaves, and in the mean time the Osages should
establish a chain of light scouts along the coast of the Missouri, to ascertain with
certainty the approach of their enemy.
It is reduced to a certainty that and a society of which he is the ostensible
leader, have determined on a project to open some commercial intercourse with Santa
Fe, and as this may lead to a connection injurious to the United States, and will, I un-
derstand, be attempted without the sanction of law or the permission of the executive,,
you must do what, consistently, you can to defeat the plan. No good can be derived
to the United States from such a project, because the prosecution of it will depend
entirely on the Spaniards, and they will not permit it, unless to serve their political as
well as their personal interests. I am informed that the ensuing autumn and winter will
be employed in reconnoitring and opening a connection with the letans, Pawnees, 8tc. that
this fall, or the next winter, a grand magazine is to be established at the Osage towns,
where these operations will commence; that is to be.the active agent, having.
formed a connection with the letans. This, will carry forward their merchandize within
three or four days travel of the Spanish settlements, where they will deposit it, under a.
guard of three hundred letans. • will then go forward with four or five attend-
ants, taking with him some jewelry and fine goods. With these he will visit the
governor, to whom he will make presents, and implore his pity by, .a fine tale of suffer-
ings which have been endured by the change of government: that they are left here,
with goods to be sure, but not a dollar's worth of bullion, and therefore they have
adventured to see him, for the purpose of praying his leave for the introduction of their
property into the province. If he assents, then the whole of the goods will-be carried
forward; if he refuses, then will invite some of his countrymen to accompany
him to his deposit, and having there exposed to them his merchandize, he will endeavour
to open a forced or clandestine trade; for he observes, the Spaniards will not dare to
attack his camp. Here you have the plan, and you must take all prudent and lawful
means to blow it up.
In regard to your approximation to the Spanish settlements, should your route lead
you near them, or should you fall in with any of their parties, your conduct must be
marked by such circumspection and discretion, as may prevent alarm or conflict, as you
will be held responsible for consequences. On this subject 1 refer you to my orders.
We have nothing new respecting the pending negotiations in Europe: but from Colonel
Gushing I understand the Spaniards below are behaving now with great courtesy.
By the return of the bearer you may open your correspondence with the secretary of
war; but I would caution you against anticipating a step before you, for fear of decep-
tion and disappointment. To me you may, and must, write fully and freely, not only
giving a minute detail of every thing past worthy of note, but also of your prospects and
the conduct of the Indians. If you discover that any tricks have been played from St.
APPENDIX. 397
Louis, you will give them to me with names, and must not fail to give particulars
to the secretary of war, with names, to warn him against improper confidence and de-
ception. Enclose your despatch for me to Colonel Hunt, and it will follow me by a party
which I leave for the purpose. It is interesting to you to reach Natchitoches in season
to be at the seat of government pending the session of congress; yet you must not sacri-
fice any essential object to this point. Should fortune favour you on your present excur-
sion, your importance to our country will, I think, make your future life comfortable.
To shew you how to correct your watch by the quadrant, after it has been carefully
adjusted, preparatory to your observing on the eclipses of the satellites of Jupiter, I
send you a very simple plan, which you will readily understand: a bason of water, in
some place protected from the motion of the air, will give you a fairer artificial horizon,
than Mercury. I think a tent, with a suitable aperture in the side of it would do very well.
I have generally unroofed a cabin. Miranda has botched his business. He has lost his.
two schooners captured, and himself in the Leander returned to Jamaica. The French
have a squadron of four frigates at Porto Rico, and of five sail of the line with Jerome
Bonaparte at Martinique. I consider them lost.
Your children have been indisposed; but Mrs. Pike writes you. She appears well.
My regards to your associates, and may God protect you.
(Signed) J. WILKINSON.
(No. VII.)
To General Wilkinson.
Camp Independence, near the Osage Towns, August 28, 1806.
.
DEAR GENERAL,
YOU will no doubt be much surprised to perceive by the date of this letter, that we
are still here: but we have been unavoidably detained by a variety of circumstances.
I had the happiness to receive your express the day of my arrival, the bearer having
arrived the night before, and have attended particularly to its contents.
On the 19th inst. I delivered your parole to the Cheveu Blanc, and on the 21st
held a grand council of both towns, and made the necessary communications and demands
for horses, on the subject of making peace with the Kanses, accompanying me to the
Pawnees, down the Arkansaw, and if there were any brave enough to accompany me the
whole voyage.
They requested one day to hold council in the villages previous to giving an answer.
Three days passed before I received any; their determination was as follows:—From the
Grand Osage village, or the Cheveu Bla»c, we are accompanied by his son, and Jean Le
Fou, the second chief of the village, with some young men not known, and he furnishes
us four horses.
398 APPENDIX.
The Little Osage «end the brother of the chief (whom I really find to be the third
chief of the village) and some young men unknown, and furnish six horses!.' This is
their present promise, but four of the ten are yet deficient. With these I am merely
capable of transporting our merchandize and ammunition. I shall purchase two more,
for which I find w-e shall be obliged to pay extravagant prices.
I sincerely believe that the two chiefs, White Hair and The Wind, have exerted all their
influence; but it must be but little when thcy could only procure ten horses out of seven
or eight hundred.
I have taken an exact survey of the river to this place, noting particular streams, &c-
a protracted copy of which Lieutenant Wilkinson forwards by this opportunity. Since
our arrival here I have ascertained the variation of the compass to be 6° 3(X E. the lati-
tude, by means of several observations, 37° 26* 17* N.and by an observation of three
different nights, obtained two immersions of Jupiter's satellites, which will enable us to
ascertain every geographical object in view.
On the same night 1 arrived near the village, there was a Mr. Baptiste Du Chouquet,
alias Larme, with two men, arrived in a small canoe and went immediately to the lodge
of the White Hair, whose conduct, with that of our resident interpreter, appears (in my
estimation) to have changed since I sent Lieutenant Wilkinson to demand to see Baptiste's
passport, if he had one: if not, to bring him to camp—which was done. I detained him
two days, until I had made an enquiry of White Hair, who said he had merely mentioned
to him that Labardie was coming with a quantity of goods. Finding I could substantiate
nothing more criminal against him than his having entered the Indian boundaries with-
out a passport, and not being able to send him back a prisoner, I detained him a sufficient
time to alarm him, and then took his deposition (a copy of which is enclosed to the
attorney-general), and wrote Dr. Brown on the occasion, and requested him to enter a
prosecution against these men.
Barroney informs me that he has not the least doubt but was at the bottom of
this embassy, although in the name of , as after the arrival of Baptiste, the Indians
frequently spoke of and declared, if he had come he could have obtained horses
plenty.' ,
Our interpreter, also (Maugraine), I do believe to be a perfect creature of:
he has almost positively refused to accompany me (although I read your order on the sub-
ject), alleging he was only engaged to interpret at this place, notwithstanding he went
last year to the Arkansaw for Mr. Chouteau without difficulty. I have not yet deter-
mined on the line of conduct to be pursued with him, but believe, on his giving a positive
refusal, I shall use military law. What the result will be is uncertain; but to be thus
braved by a scoundrel, will be lessening the dignity of our government. He js married
into a powerful family, and appears, next to the White Hair, to have the most influence
in the Grand village. The general will please to observe that much of the foregoing
APPENDIX. . 399
i«sts on conjecture, and therefore wHJ give it its due weight. But to him I not only
write as my general, but as a paternal friend, who would not make use of my open
communications, when not capable of being substantiated by proofs.
We have heard nothing of the Potowatomies; but should they come in a few days,
they will meet with a warm reception, as all are ready to receive them.
, Since my arrival here many Spanish medals have been shown me, and some commis-
sions. All I have done on the subject is merely, to advise their delivery below, when
they would be acknowledged by our government. Many have applied for permission to
go to Saint Louis; none of which I have granted, except to the son of Sans Oreille, who-
goes down to make enquiry for his sister.
I have advanced our express some things on account, and forward his receipts; also,
some trifles to Barroney, whom I have found to be one of the finest young men I ever knew
in his situation, and appears to have entirely renounced all his Saint Louis connections)
and is as firm an American as if bonrone: he of course is entirely discarded by the
people of Saint Louis; but I hope he will not suffer for his fidelity.
On the chart forwarded by Lieutenant Wilkinson is noted'the census which I caused to
be taken of the village of the Little Osage; that of the Grand Osage I shall likewise obtain
—they are from actual enumeration. Lieutenant Wilkinson will (if nothing extraordi-
nary prevents) descend the Arkansaw, accompanied by Ballenger and two men, as the
former is now perfectly acquainted with the mode of taking courses and protracting
his route, and the latter appears as if he had not the proper capacity for it, although a
good dispositioned and brave man.
I ran, dear sir,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) Z. M. PIKE.
To General Wilkinson.
Q9th August, 1606.
DEAR SIR,
I WILL continue my communications, by relating that the Wind has come in and
informed me that the other two horses which he promised'have been withdrawn by their
owners. He appeared really distressed, and I conceive I do him justice in believing that
he is extremely mortified at the deceptions which have been passed on him.
Itiis with extreme pain I keep myself cool amongst the difficulties which these people
appear to have a disposition to throw in my way; but I have declared to them that I
shall go on, even if I collect our tents and other baggage (which we shall be obliged to'
leave together) and bum them on the spot.'
I have sold the batteaa which I brought up (and which was extremely rotten) for one
hundred dollars, in merchandize, the price of this place, which I conceive was preferable
400 APPENDIX.
to leaving her to destruction, as I am afraid I do the barge (for which I demanded one
hundred and fifty dollars), although I Cleave her under charge of the Wind and shall
report her to Colonel Hunt.
I shall despatch the express to-morrow, as he complains much of the detention, 8tc.
and as I hope nothing worthy of note will occur at this place previous to our departure,
I hope the general will believe me to be, and should this be my last report, to have
been, his sincerely attached friend and
Obedient servant,
(Signed) Z. M. Put*.
Tu General J. Wilkinson.
Osage Towns, 30th August, 1806.
DEAR Si», %
I HAVE brought Mr. Noal, alias Maugraine, to reas»n, and he either goes himself 01
hires, at his expence, a young man who is here who speaks the Pawnees language, and in
many other respects is preferable to himself; but he will be the bearer of the express to
Saint Louis.
The Cheveu Blanc requested me to inform you that there is a murderer (an Osage)
in his village, who killed a Frenchman on the Arkansaw; but owing to the great dissen-
sions and schisms of the Arkansaw faction, he is fearful to deliver him up, without some
of his friends having agreed to it, and his authority being strengthened by a formal de-
mand from you, when he assures me he shall be brought down a prisoner. Indeed the
Cheveu Blanc appears to be very delicately situated, as the village on the Arkansaw
serves as a place of refuge for all the young, daring, and discontented; and added to
which, they are much more regularly supplied with ammunition, and, should not our
government take some steps to prevent it, they will ruin the Grand village, as they are at
liberty to make war without restraint, especially on the nations who are to the west, and
have plenty of horses. The chief says he was promised, at Washington, that these
people should be brought back to join him; but, at present, many of his village
are emigrating there.
Owing to the difficulty of obtaining horses, Mr. Henry returns from this place. In
descending the Mississippi I will request him to pay his respects to you.
I last evening took the census of the Grand village, and found it to be
Men 503
Boys 841
Women and Girls.. . 852
Total 1695
Lodges................»«.„._„.. 214
APPENDIX. 401
The express waits, which I hope the General will accept as an excuse for this scrawl,
having written him fully on the 28th and 2<nh inst.
I am, dear General,
Your ever sincere friend and obedient servant,
(Signed) Z. M. PiKE,Lt,
(No. VIII.)
To the Hon. Henry Dearborn, Secretary War Department.
Pawnee Republic, 1st Oct. 1806.
SIR,
WE arrived here on the 25th ult. after a tedious march of three hundred and seventy-
five miles, the distance (as I conceive) being very much augmented by the Osages, who
accompanied us, leading us too far to the south, owing to their great fear of the Kanses.
We suffered considerably with thirst, but our guns furnished us amply with buffalo
meat.
We delivered in safety, to the chief, the two young Pawnees who had lately visited
Washington, and caused to be explained to the nation, the parole which they bore from
the president of the United States.
On our arrival, we found the Spanish and American flags both expanded in the
village, and were much surprised to learn, that it was not more than three or four weeks,
lince a party of Spanish troops (whose number were estimated by the Indians of this town,
at three hundred) had returned to Santa Fe; and further learnt that a large body of
troops had left New Mexico, and on their march had mat with the villagers of the
Pawnee Mahaws, who were on one of their semi-annual excursions; that they encamped
together, and entered into a treaty; but after this, the Pawnees raised their camp in the
night, and stole a large portion of the Spaniards' horses. This circumstance induced
them to halt on the Arkansavv with the main body of the troops, and to send forward
the party who appeared at this village; who proposed to this chief to join a party of
his warriors to their troops, march to and entirely destroy the village of the Pawnee
Mahaws; this proposition he had prudence enough to reject, although at war with that
nation. The Spanish officer informed him that his superior, who remained at the
Arkansaw, had marched from Santa Fe", with an intention of entering into a treaty with
tbe following nations of Indians, viz: The Kanses, the Pawnee Republic, the Grand
Pawnees, Pawnee Loups, Otoes, and Mahaws; and had with him a grand medal, com-
missions, and four mules for each; but by the stroke of the Pawnee Mahaws, the plan
was disconcerted, except only as to this nation. The commissions are dated Santa F£,
15th June, 1806, and signed governor general, &c. &c. of New Mexico, and run in the
3 F
402 APPENDIX.
usual style of Spanish commissions to savages, as far as I was capable of judging of their
contents.
The chief further informed me, that the officer who commanded the said party, was too
ymmg to hold councils, &c. that he had only comev to open the road, but that in the
spring his superior would.be here, and teach the Indians what was good for them; and
that they would build a town near them. In short, it appears to me to have been an
expedition expressly for the purpose of striking a dread iiito those different nations of the
Spanish power, and to bring about a general combination in their favour. Under these
impressions, I have taken the earliest opportunity of reporting the infringement of our
territory, in order that our government may not remain in the dark, as to the views
of her neighbour. I effected a meeting at this place, between a few Kanses and Osages,
who smoked the pipe of peace and buried the hatchet, agreeably to the wishes of thei
great father; in consequence of which a Kans has marched for the Osage nation, and
some of the latter propose to accompany the former to their village; whether this good
understanding will be permanent, I will not take on me to determine; but, at least,
a temporary good effect has succeeded. From the Osage towns, I have taken the courses
and distances, by the route we came, marking each river or rivulet \ve crossed, pointing
out the dividing ridges, 8tc. The waters which we crossed, were the head of the Osage,
White, and Verdigrise rivers, (branches of the Arkansaw) and the waters of the Kanses
river. The latitude of this place, I presume, will be in about SO* 30* N. and I hope to
obtain every other astronomical observation, which will be requisite to fix its geo-
graphical situation beyond dispute. I expect to march from here in a few days, bat the
future prospects of the voyage are entirely uncertain, as the savages strive to throw
every impediment in our way, agreeably to the orders received from the Spaniards.
Being seated on the ground, and writing on the back of a book, I hope will plead my
excuse for this scrawl.
I am, sir, with high respect,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) Z. M. PIKE.
To General J. Wilkinson.
Pawnee Republic, 2d Oct. 1806.
DEAR GENERAL,
INCLOSED you have a copy of my letter from this place, to the secretary of war,
in order that should you think any communication on the contents necessary, you may
have a perfect command of the information given the war department, and will be the
more capable of illustrating the subject.
You will perceive by the said communication, that we were led considerably out of our
course by our guides, and in my opinion not less than one hundred miles; this wa»
APPENDIX. 403
entirely owing to the pusillanimity of the Osages, who were more afraid of the Kanse;
than I could possibly have imagined.
You will likewise perceive the council which took place between those nations (under
our auspices) and its effects, but which I candidly confess, I have very little hopes will
be productive of a permanent peace, as none of the principal men of either nation were
present; but as both are anxious for a cessation of hostilities, perhaps it may have the
desired effect.
Two of the Kanses chiefs have said they will pursue the voyage with me agreeably to
my orders; I do not yet know whether they will descend the Arkansaw with Lieutenant
Wilkinson, or continue on to Red river with me, but they have their own selection.
The general will no doubt be struck with some surprise, to perceive that so large a
party of Spanish troops have been so lately in our territory; no doubt at first you would
conclude that it must have been militia; but when informed that their infantry was
armed with muskets and bayonets, and had drums; that the men wore long mustaches
and whiskers, which almost covered the whole of their facts; their cavalry armed with
•words and pistols, and that regular guards and patroles were kept by horse and foot, you
moy probably change your opinion.
• The route by which they came, and returned, was by no means the direct one to Santa
Fc, and why they should have struck so low down as the Grand Saline, unless they had
an idea of striking at the village of the Grand Pest, or conceived the Saline in their
territory, I cannot imagine.
On our arrival here, we were received with great pomp and ceremony, by about three
hundred men on horseback, and with great apparent friendship by the chief. The Osage
(one chief and four warriors) were presented with eight horses, the Karises'who arrived two
days after, were also presented with horses. The day after, we assembled the four
principal chiefs to dine, after which, I presented the principal with a dotrblc barrelled
gun, gorget, and other articles, (this man wore the grand Spanish medal), and to the
second the small medal yon furnished me,' with other articles; and to each of the others
a gorget in their turn. Those presents I conceived would have a good effect, both as to
attaching them to our government, and in our immediate intercourse.
At the council which was Iwld a day or two afterwards, I presented them with
merchandize (which at this place should be valued at two hundred and fifty dollars), and
after explaining their relative situation as to the Spanish and American governments,
I asked on my part, if they would assist us with a few rjorses, an letan prisoner who
spoke Pawnee, to serve as an interpeter, an exchange of colours, and finally, for some
of their chiefs to accompany us, to be sent to Washington. The exchange of the colours
was the only request granted at the time; and for particular reasons (which Lieutenant
Wilkinson related) I thought proper to return them to the chief; and after spending
two or three anxious days, we were given to understand, that our requests could not be
3 F2
404 APPENDIX.
complied with in the other points, and were again strongly urged by the head chief,
to return the way we came, and not prosecute our voyage any further. This brought on
an explanation as to our views towards the Spanish government, m which the chief
declared, that it was the intention of the Spanish troops to have proceeded further
towards the Mississippi, but that he objected to it, and they listened to him and
returned; he therefore hoped we would be equally reasonable. But finding I still
determined on proceeding, he told me in plain terms (if the interpreter erred not) that
it was the will of the Spaniards we should uot proceed; which not answering, he
painted innumerable difficulties which he said lay in the way; but finding all his
arguments had no effect, he said, " It was a pity," and was silent. ',
This day I sent out several of my party to purchase horses, but know not how we shall
succeed, as the Kanses have intimated an idea, that the chief will prohibit his people from,
trading with us.
The Pawnees and the letans are at war; the latter killed six of the former in August
last, consequently the effecting any communication with the letans by means of this
nation is impossible.
If God permits, we shall march from here in a few days, and at the Arkansaw I shall
remain until I build two small canoes for Lieutenant Wilkinson, (whose party will
consist of Ballenger and two or three men, with three Osage.) Those canoes will be easily
managed, and in case of accident to one, the other will still be sufficient to transport
their baggage.
I am informed, that in a few days he will meet French hunters, and probably arrive
at the village of the Grand Pest in a fortnight; and as all the Osage nation are apprized
of his descent, I conceive he will meet with no insurmountable difficulties*. The letans
are at open war with the Spaniards, so that could we once obtain an introduction,
I conceive we should meet with a favourable reception. Yet how it is to be brought
about, I am much at a loss to determine, but knowing that, at this crisis of affairs, an
intimate connection with that nation might be extremely serviceable to my country,
I shall proceed to find them; in hopes to discover some means through the French,
Osage, and Pawnee languages, of making ourselves understood.
Any number of men (who may reasonably be calculated on) would find no difficulty
in marching the route we came with baggage waggons, field artillery, and all the usual
appendages of a small army; and if all the route to Santa Fe should be of the same
description, in case of war, I would pledge my life (and what is infinitely dearer, my
honour) for the successful march of a reasonable body of troops, into the province of
New Mexico.
I find the savages of this country less brave, but possessing much more duplicity, and
This was crrootoui, but it was my impression at the time.
APPENDIX. 405
by far a greater propensity to lying and stealing, than those I had to pass through in my
last voyage.
I am extremely doubtful if any chief of these nations can be induced to prosecute
thfe voyage with us, as their dread of the letans, and the objections of the Pawnees,
seem to outweigh every argument and inducement to the contrary.
October 3d—The Pawnee chief has induced the Kanses to return to their villages, by
giving them a gun and promising horses, with many frightful pictures drawn if they
proceeded.
The Osages lent me five horses, which their people who accompanied us were to have
led back, but teceiving fresh ones from the Pawnees, they would not be troubled with
them. In fact, it was a fortunate circumstance, as four of the horses I obtained of the
Oiage, have such bad backs, they cannot proceed, and we shall be obliged to leave them;
and not purchasing here with facility, I should have been obliged to have sacrificed some
of our baggage. I therefore sent them a certificate for each horse, on the Indian agent
below, which I hope the general will order him to discharge.
I know the general's goodness will excuse this scrawl, as he is well acquainted with
the situation it must be written in, and at the same time, believe to be his sincere
friend and
Most obedient humble servant,
(Signed) Z. M. PIKE.
(No. IX.)
To General J. Wilkinson.
Arkansaw, <W,h Oct. 1806. Latitude 37° 44' 9* N.
DEAR GENERAL,
OUR party arrived here on the 15th inst. myself and Doctor Robinson on the 19th,
we having been out to seek the trace of the Spanish troops, missed the party, and were
not able to join them until the fourth day.
The river being very regular, Lieutenant Wilkinson had calculated to proceed on the
day following, on the most direct route for the Red river, but shortly after my joining,
considerable rain fell and raised the river, and we have been ever since preparing wooden
and skin canoes, for that gentleman and party to descend in.
The river is between three and four hundred yards in width; generally flat low
banks, not more than two or three feet high, and the bed a sand bank from one side
to the other.
The want of water will present the greatest obstacle to the progress of the party
who descend the Arkansaw, as they have no cause to fear a scarcity of provision,
406 APPENDIX,
having some bushels of corn on hand, and at their option to take as much dried meat a*
they think proper, hundreds of pounds of which are lying on scaffolds at our camp; and
they are likewise accompanied by the choice of our hunters.
Under these circumstances, and those stated in my letter from the Pawnees, I can
assert with confidence, there are no obstacles I should hesitate to encounter, although
those inseparable from a voyage of several hundred leagues through a wilderness
inhabited only by savages, may appear of the greatest magnitude to minds unaccustomed
to such enterprizes.
Lieutenant Wilkinson and party appear in good spirits, and shew a disposition which
must vanquish every difficulty. »
We were eight days travelling from the Pawnee village to the Arkansaw, (our general
course S. 10* W.) several of which we lay by nearly half, owing to various circumstances;
my course made it one hundred and fifty miles, but could now march it in one hundred
and twenty. Lieutenant Wilkinson has copied and carries with him a very elegant
protracted sketch of the route, noting the streams, hills, &c. that we crossed; their
courses, bearings, 8tc. and should I live to arrive, I will pledge myself to shew their
connections, and,general direction with considerable accuracy, as I have myself spared
no pains in reconnoitring or obtaining information from the savages in our route.
From this point, we shall ascend the river until we strike the mountains, or find
the letans; and from thence bear more to the S. until we find the head of the Red
river, where we shall be detained some time, after which nothing shall cause a halt until
my arrival at Natchitoches.
I speak in all these cases in the positive mood, as, so far as lies in the compass of
human exertions, we command the power; but I pretend not to surmount impossibilities,
and I well know the general would pardon my anticipating a little to him.
The general will probably be surprized to find that the expenses of the expedition
will more than double the contemplated sum of our first calculations; but I conceived
the Spaniards were making such great exertions to debauch the minds of our savages,
that economy might be very improperly applied. And I likewise have found the purchase
of horses to be attended with much greater expense than was expected at St. Louis. For
these reasons, and when I advert to the expenses of my two voyages, (which I humbly
conceive might be compared with the one performed by captains Lewis and Clark), and
the appropriations made for theirs, I feel a consciousness, that it is impossible for the most
rigid to censure my accounts. • '"
I cannot yet say if I shall sacrifice my horses at Red river, but every exertion shall
be made to save them for the public ; some if in good condition would be fine ones, and
average between fifty and sixty dollars. Should the fortune of war at length honour me
witli a company, I hope tht general will recollect his promise to me, and have the men now
unileriny command attached to it; and on my arrival 1 shall take the liberty of soliciting
APPENDIX. 407
his influence, that they may obtain the same, or similai rewards, to those conferred on the
men who accompanied Captain Lewis, as I will make bold to say, that they have in twe
voyages, incurred as great dangers, and gone through as many hardships.
I am, dear General,
Your ever attached friend add obedient servant,!
Z. M. PIKE.
N. B. Doctor Robinson presents his respectful compliments, and is sanguine in the
success of our expedition. .,
(No. X.)
The following report was written by Lieutenant Wilkinson at a time when it was
expected I had been cut off by the savages. Inconsequence of'which it alludes to
transactions relative to the expedition previously to our separation, which I have since
corrected, but the adventures of his party after our separation are given in his own words.
Z. M. PIKE.
To his Excellency General Wilkinson,
Commander in Chief of the United States' Army.
New Orleans, April 6th, 1807.
SIK,
AGREEABLY to your order dated in June, 1806, I took my departure from Belle
Fontaine, under the command of Lieutenant Pike, early in July. The Missouri being
well up, we found the navigation as favourable as could have been expected. On the
28th of the same month we reached the mouth of the Osage river, which we found
a pellucid, tranquil stream, with the exception of a few trifling ripples, and a fall of
about six feet in two-thirds of a mile, called the Old Man's rapid. The river abounds
with various kinds of good fish, especially the soft shelled turtle, which we took in great
numbers. The banks of the river are generally formed by craggy cliffs, and not
unfrequently, you perceive stupendous rocks projecting over the water, out of which
issue excellent springs. The most remarkable natural curiosity which I observed, is
a pond of water, about three hundred toises in circumference, six miles above the Yungar,
on a rising piece of ground considerably above the level of the river, which keeps one
continued iieight, is perfectly pure and transparent, and has no outlet, by which to
discharge itself.
On the 12th of August, the Osages appeared dissatisfied with the tedious movement
of our barges, and expressed a wish to cross the Prairie to their villages, in case an
escort was allowed them. I immediately volunteered my services, and we parted with
the boats at the mouth of Grande river, the spot where our ransomed prisoners were
taken the preceding winter by the Potowatoiniei.
408 APPENDIX.
We reached the village of the Little Osages, after a fatiguing and laborious inarch of
six days across an arid prairie.
When within a mile of the town, the chief Tuttasuggy, or the Wind, desired a regular
procession might be observed, and accordingly he placed me between himself and hit
first warrior, and the ransomed captives followed by files. Half a mile from the village
we were met by one hundred and fifty horsemen, painted and decorated in a very fanciful
manner. These were considered as a guard of honour, and on our approach opened
to the right and left, leaving us a sufficient space to pass through.
A few hundred yards in advance on the right, I perceived sixty or more horsemen,
painted with a blue chalk, which when the chief observed, he commanded a halt, and
sent forward his younger brother Nezuma or the Rain that walks, with a flag and silk
handkerchief, as a prize for the swiftest horseman. At a given signal they started
off at full speed, the two foremost taking the flag and handkerchief, and the rest
contenting themselves with having shewn their agility and skill.
As I entered the village, I was saluted by a discharge from four swivels (which the
Indians had taken from an old fort erected by the Spaniards on the river), and passed
through a crowd of nearly a thousand persons, part of whom I learnt were of the Grand
village- I was immediately, but with ceremony, ushered into the lodge of the Soldier
of the Oak, who, after having paid me some very handsome compliments, courteously
invited me to eat of green corn, buffalo meat, and water melons about the size of a
twenty-four pound shot, which, though small, were highly flavoured.
After Lieutenant Pikes's arrival with the boats we formed our camp on the bank of the
river, equi-distant from the villages of the Grand and Little Osages, and he selected
a situation for making his observations, which he did not complete until the 28th of the
month. The 29th and 30th were devoted to packing as conveniently and carefully as
possible the mathematical instruments, and a small quantity of provisions. And on the
1st of September, we commenced our march for the Pawnee Republic, and entered on
that vast and extensive prairie, which lies between the Missouri and the Rio del
Norte.
We coursed the Osage river to its source, and almost immediately after crossed some
of the small branches of Grande river, which enters the Arkansaw about seven hundred
miles from the Mississippi. After passing Grande river, which we found to be sixty or
eighty yards wide, we marched a whole day before we reached the waters of the Kanses,
and were agreeably surprised to find ourselves on the bank of a bold running stream.
Between this and the village of the Pawnees, we crossed two strongly impregnated
salines, which passed over a sandy country, almost destitute of herbage, and after a
painful march, under an oppressive sun, over an irregular and broken surface, we
arrived at the town of the Republican Pawnees on the 25th of September. We were
met the day before by a number of warriors, whom curiosity had led thus far to »ee ui,
APPENDIX. . 409
among whom was the third consequential character of the Republican party; for you
must know that the village is composed of the followers of a dissatisfied warrior, who
first made this establishment, and the adherents of a regular chief of the Grand Pawnees,
who migrated thither some few years since with his family, and usurped the power of the
Republican warrior. To such a pitch does this party spirit prevail, that you easily
perceive the hostility which exists between the adherents of the two chiefs. Early on
the morning of the 25th we were joined by a few more savage* of distinction, headed
by the brother of Characterick or the White Wolf, chief of the nation, who was to act
as master of the ceremonies to our formal entry. Preparatory to our march, we
had our men equipped as neatly as circumstances would admit. About mid-day we
reached the summit of a lofty chain of ridges, where we were requested to halt and wait
the arrival of the chief, who was half a mile from us, with three hundred horsemen, who
were generally naked, (except having buffalo robes and breech cloths), and painted with
white, yellow, blue, and black clay. At the word of the chief the warriors divided, and
pushing on at full speed, flanked us on the right and left, yelling in a most diabolical
manner. The chief advanced in front, accompanied by I«katappe or the Rich man,
the second great personage of the village, and his son*, who were clothed in scarlet
cloth. They approached slowly, and when within a hundred yards, the three latter
halted, and Characterick advanced in great state, and when within a few paces of us
stretched out his hand and cried "bonjour;" thus ended the first ceremony. We
moved on a mile further, and having gained the summit of a considerable hill we
discovered the village directly at its base. We were here again halted, and the few
Osages who accompanied us were ordered in front and seated in rank entire. The chief
squatted on his hams in front of them, and filled a calumet, which several different Indians
took from him and handed to the Osages to smoke. This was called Horse Smoke, as each
person who took the pipe from the chief intended presenting the Osages a horse. Mr.
Pike and Doctor Robinson afterwards accompanied the chief to his lodge, and I moved
on with the detachment, and formed our camp on the opposite bank of the Republican
fork of the Kanses river, on a commanding hill, which had been selected as the most
favourable situation for making observations, though very inconvenient on account of
wood and water, which we had to transport nearly a quarter of a mile.
At a council held some few days after our arrival, Lieutenant Pike explained to them tl«
difference of their situation to what it had been a few years past. That now they must
Jook up to the president of the United States «S their great father, and that he had been
sent by him, to assure tliem of his good wishes, 8tc. 8tc. That he perceived a Spanish
flag flying at the council lodge door, and was anxious to exchange one of their great
father's for it, and that it was o«r intention to proceed on further to the westward, to
examine this our newly acquired country. To this, a singular and extraordinary response
wa» given j in fact, an objection started in direct opposition to our proceeding farther
3 G
410 APPENDIX.
to the west; however, they gave up the Spanish flag, and we had the pleasure to see th«
American standard hoisted in its stead.
At the same council Characterick observed, that a large body of Spaniards had lately
been at his village, and that they promised to return and build a town adjoining his.
The Spanish chief, he said, mentioned that lie was not empowered to counsel with'him;
that he came merely to break the road for his master, who would visit him in the spring
with a large army, and that he further told him the Americans were a little people, but
were enterprizing, and one of those days would stretch themselves even to his town, -and
that they took the lands of Indians and would drive off their game. And how very true,,
»aid Characterick, has the Spanish chieftain spoken? We demanded to purchase a few
horses, which was prohibited us, and the friendly communication which had existed be-
tween the town and our camp was stopped. The conduct of our neighbours assumed a
mysterious change; our guards were several times alarmed, and finally appearances be-
came so menacing as to make it necessary for us to be on our guard day and night.
It was obvious that the body of Spaniards who preceeded us but a few weeks in theic
mission to this village, were the regular cavalry and infantry of the province of Santa Fe,
as they had formed their camps in regular order > and we were informed they kept regular
guards, and that the beats of their drums were uniform morning and evening. TheSpanish
leader further delivered to Characterick, a grand medal, two mules, and a commission
bearing the signature of the governor civil and military of Santa Fe. He also had similar
marks of distinction for the Grand Pawnees, the Pawnee Mahaws, Mahaws proper,
Ottoes, and Kanses.
'On the sixth of October we made some few purchases of miserable horses at the most
exorbitant prices, and on the seventh, unmoved by the threats of the chief relative to our
proceeding farther to the west, we marched ia a close and compact body until we passed
their village, and took the large Spanish beaten trace for the Arkansaw river. We
passed the following day, an encampment of the Spaniards, where we counted sixty-nine
fires. On the ninth, as usual, made an easy march, and about noon when we halted to
refresh ourselves, were overtaken by three hundred Pawnees, on their way to the salines
of the Kanses to hunt buffalo. Their every act shewed a strong disposition to quarrel,
and in fact they seemed to court hostility, but finding us without fear, and prepared to a
man, they offered no outrage, and having grazed our horses an hour, we parted from
this turbulent band. Slung our packs and proceeded on to Solomon's fork of th$
Kanses, and pitched our tents on an old encampment of the Spaniards, whose trace we
were following, as we found the next morning many, tent pins, made of wood different
from any in that country. At mid-day, Lieutenant Pike, Doctor Rpbinson, and the
interpreter Baroney, pushed on to search for water, and I remained with the troops. I.
pushed on as briskly as our poor half famished horses would permit, and at night-fall
could discover nothing of Mr. Pike, and had.not a. tree in view.. Thi$ induced me to
APPENDIX.
.quicken my pace, and as darkness had rendered my compass useless, I coursed by the
Polar star, but the horizon becoming overcast, I halted on a naked stony prairie, without
water or grass for our horses. On the following morning I directed my course more to
the southward, and, about ten o'clock came to the creek and encampment of Lieutenant
Pike. Late in the evening of the same day, after passing over a mountainous tract *»f
country, we reached the Grand saline, which we found so strongly impregnated, as to
render corn unpalatable when boiled in it. On the 12th, after a distressing day's march",
we reached the second or small saline, and on the following day encamped on the most
western branch of the Kanses river.
We were detained on the morning of the 13th by a small rain, but as time was press-
ing, we marched about noon, crossed the dividing ridge of the Kanses and Arkansaw
rivers, and halted on a small branch of the latter.
For several days past we had been so bewildered by buffalo paths, that we had lost
the Spanish trace, and this being an object of moment, we resolved to make search for it.
Accordingly, on the following day at noon, Mr. Pike and Dr." Robinson struck off from
the party a due west course, and I marched the detachment for a copse of wood, which
we could barely discern in the south-west, and reached it about midnight.
At day-break I was awoke by my old and faithful Osage, who informed me that we
were on the banks of the Arkansaw river. I immediately arose and discovered my tent
'to have .been pitched on the margin of a watercourse, nearly four hundred yards wide,
with banks not three feet high, and a stream of water running through it, about twenty
feet in width, and not more than six or eight inches deep.
I remained here four days in great anxiety and suspense, as neither Mr. Pike nor Dr.
Robinson made their appearance, nor could be found, although I had all my hunters in
search of them; but I was agreeably surprised on the fifth day early in the morning, by
their arrival. It appeared our apprehensions were mutual, as they expected I had been
cut off, and I believed they had been murdered.
On the 17th it commenced raining and continued for several days, during which time
the river rose so much as to fill its bed from bank to bank. Lieutenant Pike having
determined that I should descend the Arkansaw, we cut down a small green cotton wood,
and with much labour split out a canoe, which being insufficient, we formed a second of
- "' *
buffalo and elk skins.
After the rain had ceased, the weather became extremely cold, and on the 2~th in the
evening, a severe snow storm commenced, and continued nearly all night. In the morn-
ing the river was almest choaked with drifting ice, but the sun bursting out at noon, the
ice disappeared. I took leave of Mr. Pike, who marched up the rivfer, at the moment
J embarked on board my newly constructed canoe; but unfortunately we had not pro-
ceeded more than one hundred yards when,my boats grounded, and the men, were
obliged to drag them through saud and ice five miles to a.cppse of 'wood on.the
• 3G2
412 APPENDIX.
western bank. I here hauled op my canoe, formed a kind of cabin of it, and wrapped
myself up in my buffalo robe, disheartened and dissatisfied with the commencement of my
voyage. TUP' night was severely cold, and in the morning the river was so fuB of ice,
as to prevent all possibility of proceeding. The day continued stormy, with snow from
the north-west.
On the 30th the river was frozen up, and towards evening the water had run off, and
left the bed of the river covered with ice. This circumstance determined me to leave my
canoes, and course the river by land. Accordingly, on the Slst of October, after having
thrown away all my cloathing and provision, except half a dozen tin cups of hard com
for each man; I slung my rifle on my shoulder, and with my buffalo robe at my back, and
circumferenter in my hand, I recommenced my march with a light and cheerful heart.
My only apprehension was the meeting with detached bands of the Pawnees, who I am
confident would have brought myself and my five men to action, and the consequance
wai very obvious.
On. the 1st 2d and Sd of November, I marched over high and barren hills of sand,
and at the close of each day, passed strongly impregnated salines, and perceived the
shores of the river to be completely frosted with nitre. The face of the country as I
descended looked more desolate than above; the eye being scarcely able to discern a
tree, and if one was discovered, it proved to be a solitary cotton-wood, stinted in growth
by the sterility of the soil. The evening of the 3d instant, I encamped on the bank of
the river, without a tree or even a shrub in view. On the 4th we experienced heavy
rain, but hunger and cold pressed me forward. After marching ten miles, I reached a
small tree, where I remained in a continued rain for two days. At the expiration of this
time having exhausted my fuel, I had again to push off in a severe storm, and formed
my camp at the mouth of a bold running stream, whose northern bank was skirted by a
chain of lofty ridges.
On the 8th, in the morning, it having cleared op, I began my march early, and it ap-
peared as if we had just gotten into the region of game, for the herds of buffalo, elk,
goat, and deer, surpassed credibility. I do solemnly assert, that if I saw one I saw more
than nine thousand buffaloes during the day's march.
On tbe 10th in the evening, after a severe day's march, I encamped on the bank of a
large creek, and discovered for the first time on the river, a species of wood differing from
the cotton tree. I assure you thesight was more agreeable than a person would imagine;
it was like meeting with an old acquaintance, from whom you had been separated a
length of time. I even began to think myself approximating civilized settlements,
although I was just entering on the hunting ground of tbe Osages. The buffalo and
goats disappeared on the 12th, or rather we had passed their range, and entered that of
the deer only. Onr marches now lay through rich narrow bottoms, from one hundred
and fifty to two hundred yards wide.
APPENDIX. 413
On the 15th, discovering timber sufficiently large to form canoes, I felled a couple of
trees, and commenced splitting out. I would have proceeded farther by land, but as my
men were almost worn out with 1'atigne, and the game grew scarce, I conceived it
most advisable to rest for a short time, and kill my winter store of meat. This I effected
by the 24th, and on the same day completed the canoes.
On the '-.3th I again attempted the navigation of the river, but was as unfortunate a.
at first, for my boat grounded after floating a few hundred yards, and the men were conse-
quently compelled to ply with their shoulders instead of their paddles.
The following day I passed the Negracka, at whose mouth commence the craggy
cliffs which line a great part of the shores of the Arkansaw.
On the 28th the provision canoe overset, and I lost nearly all my stock of meat. This
accident was rendered the more distressing by an almost total Joss of wy ammunition,
which unfortunately was in the same canoe. •. ,„;
On the 30th I fell in with a band of Grand Osages, who were in pursuit of buffalo
cows; the chief of the party insisted on my remaining with him a day, and sent out his
young men to hunt for me.
In the afternoon two Indians of die Little Osage. nation joined us, with a horse and
mule, and brought me a message from Tattasuggy, or the Wind, who it appeared was
lying very ill, about twenty miles across the prairie, and wished to see me. As he was
a particular favourite of mine, I left ray canoes in charge of the men, and passed with a
guide to the chief's temporary village. T found him extremely uuwell, with what I con?
cci ved to be a dropsy, for his abdomen was very much swollen. He seemed gratified at
the sight of me, and observed That he was poor and pitiful, for the reason that he was
a friend to the Americans. He said that Chouteau after he had arrived at tlieir villages
last fall had treated him like a child, and had taken to Washington his younger brother
N«zuma, or the Rain that Walks, and intended making him. chief of the nation. That
Chouteau told him he was a bad man, was an American, but that the Spaniards were
going to war with America, and that in a short time they would claim all this country
again. That he prevented the traders allowing a credit, whereby bis family were much
distressed. This I clearly perceived, for they were even destitute of a whole blanket
This Nezuma, whom Chouteau took on to Washington last fall with his wife, I am
better acquainted, with than perhaps Mr. Chouteau' himself. la the first place I marched
witli him from St. Louis to his town, and he started with us to visit the Pawnees, but the
mean and pitiful wretch got alarmed, and sneaked off without even advising us of his
departure. He has no more command in the village than a child, is no warrior, and has
not even the power to controul the will of a single man of his nation. Whether this
youth is entitled to a grand medal, you. may judge from the foregoing statement. In-
deed, Sir, our grand medals have become so common, that they do not carry with them
the respect which they should. I recollect one of the deputation who was at the aeat of
414 APPENDIX.
m » \ • • •
•government the year before "the lasti came out with/ a large medal and an intermediate
sized one. On our arrival at the villages, I calculated on his acting a conspicuous part
of the play/^iut to my utter astonishment; he was not permitted to sit among the chiefs,
or even the warriors at the council.
You well know, Sir, how particular the Spaniards, and the British especially, have
been in their distribution of medals, and if I mistake not, an Iowa chief, who had been
to the seat of government, and there received a small medal, returned it jn preference
to giving up a large British mcdal> as he Valued it more because it was a certain distin-
guishing mark of a chief. •
You gave to Mr. Pike an- intermediate sized medal for one of the Pawnee chiefs^
which he presented .Isfcatappe, who having remarked the medals pendant from the
necks of ilie two Pawnee young men had been at Washington, demanded of what
utility it would be to him? The only Spanijh medals in the Pawnee nation, are thos<
fcorn by Characteiick, or the White Wolf, and his son. • '• •
<- T^he following sarcastic remark was made by 'the son of the .Belle Oiseau, a chief ot
the first standing among the Grand Osages whilst living, and who unfortunately was
killed by the Sacs on his way to Washington, with the first deputation. The son of
White Hair, with Shenga Wassa, or Beautiful Bird, was to accompany us to the Pawnee
fillkge, but the former proved recreant, and at the crossing of Grand river, said he would
feturri home. "Shame on' you," said the latter, "what a pity it is so great and honour-
.2ble' a medal Should be'disgraced by so mean a heart."
"You will pardon this digression, but I •would wish to convince you, from what I have
*een of Indians, how very requisite it is to use the utmost caution in the distribution of
our presents ^nd marks of distinction.' ..i• '•' • t.
1'i3efdre'I"set/ont'to visit Tattasnggy, the ice had commenced drifting in large sheets,
imdon-fny return I found it running from shore to shore; 1 however pushed off, and
Drifted with it:
''The night 6f'the second of December was intensely cold, but hunger obliged me to.
proceed; and we'fortunately reached the mouth of the Neskalonska river, without
accident or injury/ excepting that one of my men got frosted. This day we pafcsed two'
splines, which enter on the south-west side. ' '• '•' •U'M*'/'.
J/The severity of trie weather increased, and the river froze over on the morning of the
third. This circumstance placed me in a situation truly distressing, as my men were
Almost naked; the tatters which covered them were comfortless, and my ammunition was
frearly exhausted.'-'" '' •' ''•'J '•'' .i
riJFhemen solicited me to hut, but I was resolved by perseverance and exertion to over-
(Come, if in'my'power, the obstacles opposed to my progress. ''• •• ,'"•-•i•• . .•
• The Ne'skalortska is about one hundred and twenty yards wide, shoal, and 'narrow at
jrs mouth, but "deepens and spreads after you turn the first point.. On' this' ilream the
415
Grand and Little Osagefc form" their temporary fall bunting camps, and take; their
peltries. When the seventy of winter sets in, the Grand Osages retire to Grosse Isle on
the Verdigris or Wasetihoge, and the Little Osages to one of its small branches, called
Possitonga, where they remain during the hard weather, and from thence return to theii?
towns on the N'eska, or Osage river. .' ' , ...
On the Gth 'the ice began to drift, and I immediately pushed off with it> but as my
evil stars would have it, my boats again grounded, and being in the middle pf the rivery
my only alternative was to get out arid drag them, along for several milesi. when we
halted to warm our benumbed feet and hands. The next day several large cakes of ice
had blocked'up the river, and we had to cut our way through them with axes. The?
boats as usual ..grounded, and the men bate legged and bare footed, were- obliged to leap
into the water. This happened so frequently that two. more of .my men got badly
frosted. •• ,' . :., | .•:•. ...- .!.....-, I ...
On the 8th one of my canoes was' driven on a bank o^ice, during a snow storm, andT
did not overtake me until the evening of the 9th; and then in so shattered a condition, that
sh« could hardly be kept above water, ami the poor fellows who, were in her were almost
frozeny ;. , 3, ,^.i I •''.• -i' i ."./•=> '.... .1 .••.-/1'»/i 11-• ',
On the K)th, about noon, I passed Grand sa'im-, or the Mewsewket^nga,..which-is o£
a reddish colour, though its water is very clear. About two days march up this rivei.yoq.
find the prairie grass on the south-west side incrusted with salt, and on the north east
bank fre.sh. water springs, and lakes abounding 'with .fish* This salt the Arkansas
Qsages obtain by: scraping it off the prairie with a turkey's wing into a wooden trencher.
The river does not derive its name.from its saline properties, but die quantities of salt
that, may always be found on its banks, and is at all seasons of the year potable.
On the 20th, in the afternoon, we passed another saline, with water equally as red as
the former, and more strongly impregnated with salt, -
'After encountering every hardship, to which a-voyage is subject in small canoes at. so
mclement a season of the year, I arrived on the 23d instant, in a storm of' hajl and snow,
at the wintering camp of Cashesegra,' or Big Track, chief of the Osages who reside on
Verdigris river. On the following day I gave him.your talk, and received his reply,
which it is wrnepessary to recount fully, as it was merely a description of his poverty and
miserable situation. He however said, that he had been informed the United States
intended erecting factories on the Osage river, and that he was anxious to have one near
'to his own village, and -for- the purpose, he was willing to give the United States the tract
of country lying betvveen the Verdigris and Grand rivers. A factory, with a garrison of
troops stationed there, would answer the double purpose of keeping in order those In-
dians who are the most desperate and profligate part ®f the whole nation, and more fully
impressing them with, an idea of our consequence,. an,d. gaining more firmly their
friendship. It also would tend to preserve harmony arAoag.'thje.Chactaws, Creeks,'
41S APPENDIX.
Cherokees, and Osagcs of the three different villages, who are in a constant state of war-
fare; and further, it would prevent the Osages making excursions into the country of
the poor and peaceably disposed Chactaws, and might have some effect in confining the
Spaniards to their own territorial limits.
On the 27th I passed the mouths of the Verdigris and Grand rivers, the former being
about one hundred, and the latter one hundred and thirty yards wide; these streams
enter within a quarter of a mile of each other. Below the mouth of Grand river com-
mence the rapids, which continue for several hundred miles down the Arkansas.
About fifty-eight or sixty miles up the Verdigris is situate the Osage village. This
band, some four or five years since, were led by the chief Cashescgra, to the waters of
the Arkansaw, at the request of Pierre Ghouteau, for the purpose of securing their trade;
the exclusive trade of 'the Osage river having at that time been purchased from the
Spanish governor, by Manuel Liza, of St. Louis. But though Cashesegra be the
nominal leader, Clermont, or the Builder of Towns, is the greatest warrior, and most
influential man, and is more firmly attached to the interests of the Americans, than any
ether chief of the nation. He is the lawful sovereign tifthe Grand Osage, but his
hereditary right was usurped by Pahuska, or White Hair, while Clermont was yet an
infant. White 11 air, is in fact, a chief of Chou twin's creating, Us well as Cashesegra,
and neither ;has the power, nor disposition, to restrain their young men from the perpe-
tration of an improper act, fearing lest they should render themselves unpopular.
On the 29th I passed a fall of near seven feet perpendicular, and at evening was
risked by a scout from an Osage war party, and received from them a man by the name
of M*Farlane, who had been trapping up the Pottoe. We passed about noon this day
the mouths of the river des Illinois, which enters on the north-east side, and the Canadian
river which puts in from the south-west. The latter river is the main branch of the Ar-
kansaw, and is equally as large as the other.
Oh the 8;lst I passed the mouth of Pottoe, a deep though narrow stream, which'puts
in on the^sbtirti-West, and aUo the river au Milieu that enters from the north-east.
On tne evening of the Cth January, I reached the plantation of a Mr. Labourne,
and was more inhospitably treated than by the savages themselves.
On the 8th passed the two upper Arkansaw or Quapaw villages, and on the 9th, after
passing the lower Quapaw town, and a settlement of Chactaws, arrived at the post of
Arkansaw.
The surface of the country between the Osage towns nnd the Pawnee village is gene-
tally broken and naked, the soil sterile, and abounding with flint and lime stones. At
"you approach the waters of the Kanses it becomes hilly and sandy. The same may be
said of the country between the Pawnee village and the Arkansaw, but after passing the
ridge which separates the waters of the Kanses and Arkansaw, the surface becomes
tnore regular and less stony.
APPENDIX. 417
*
Below the Verdigris, the shores of the Arkansaw are generally lined with cane, and
consequently consist of rich bottoms. I was informed by the Indians that the country to
the north-west of the Osage village, abounds with valuable lead mines, but I could make
no discovery of any body of mineral.
The survey from the Arkansaw post to the Mississippi, I fear is not correct, as I wa?
so ill when I descended that part of the river, as to be confined to my blanket.
I have the honour to subscribe myself
Your faithful and obliged
Humble and obedient servant,
JAMES B. WILKINSON,
1st Lieut. 2d. United States regt. of Infantry,
(No. XI.)
LETTER TO GOVERNOB ALLENCASTEB.
Santa Fe, 3d March, 1807-
SIR,
On the arrival of your troops at my encampment last month, under
the command of Lieut. Don Ignacio Saltelo and Mr. Bartholomew, they informed me,
that your excellency had directed them to assure me that I should be escorted through
your dominions to the source of Red river, as our being on the iron tiers of your pro-
vince gave cause to suspicion. I conceived it more proper to comply with the request,
and repair to Santa Fe, in order to explain to your excellency any circumstance which
might appear extraordinary, but on my arrival here, am informed by your excellency,
that it is necessary that myself and troops pass by Chihuahua, in the province of Biscay,
more than two hundred leagues out of my route. I have demanded of your excellency to
know if we are to be considered as prisoners of war? you inform me you do not consider
us in that light. Not to embarrass your excellency with many demands, I only request to
receive it from under your hands, in what manner I am to consider myself, and the or-
ders for my passing into the country; also whether the expence of the voyage is to be
considered as defrayed by the government of Spain or the United States? Excuse my
language, as I am not much accustomed to writing in French, but your excellency hav-
ing no person who understands English, obliges me to attempt that language.
I am, Sir, 8tc.
(Signed,) Z. M. PIKE.
3 n
418 APPENDIX.
TRANSLATION.
THE 1st lieutenant of the the Anglo American troops, named Z. Montgomery Pike,
with the party of soldiers under his command, having been met with by the troops
under my orders at four day's journey from the seat of government, in this province,
.which is under my charge; he was required personally to appear, which he volunurly
did, complying with the orders of the senior commanding general of these internal
provinces. I bade the said lieutenant proceed on his march with his party, equipped
with horses, provisions, and equipage, under charge of an officer and sixty men of our
troops, with orders to introduce him to the said commanding general, in the town of
Chihuahua. I permitted the said party to carry their arms and ammunition; actuated
by proper considerations, and to comply with the petition of the said Anglo American.
1 certify the foregoing contents to be accurate.
(Signed) JOACHIM REAL ALLENCASTEB.
Santa Fa 3d March 1807.
(No. XII.)
To Governor Allencaste'r. ;•
St. Fernandez March 7th 1807.
SIR,
ON my arrival at this village, and meeting with Dr. Robinson, he informed me, that
lie acknowledged to lieutenant Malgares to belong to my party. As this acknowledge-
ment, in fact, only interested himself, I am constrained to explain to your excellency,
my reasons for having denied his connection with me. He marched from St. Louis with
my detachment as a volunteer, after having with much pains and solicitation obtained
permission from the general for that purpose. On our arrival on the Rio del Norte (then
supposed to be the Red river) he left the party in order to come to Santa Fe, with a view
of obtaining information as to trade, and collect some debts due to persons in the Illinois.
Ou my being informed of his embarrassments, I conceived it would be adding to tliem,
to acknowledge his having accompanied a military party on to the frontiers of the pro-
vince—and conceived myself bound in honour and friendship to conceal it; but
scorning any longer the disguise he had assumed, he has left me at liberty to make this
acknowledgement to your excellency, which I hope will sufficiently exculpate me in the
opinion of every man of honour and of the world, for having denied a fact, when I con-
ceived the safety of a friend in a foreign country to be concerned, in the event. The
above statement will be corroborated by lieutenant Wilkinson, and he will be reclaimed
by the Uuited States as a citizen, agreeably to our treaties with Spain, regulating the
intercourse, commerce, 8ic, between the two nations. I felt disposed to enter into an
APPENDIX. 419
expostulation with your excellency, as to the deception practised on me by the officers
who came out with your invitation to enter the province, but will refrain, and only re-
quest that my sergeant and party may be ordered to follow with all possible despatch, as
he has all my astronomical instruments and cloathing, except what I now wear. I have
found lieutenant. Malgares to be what you stated him, a gentleman and a soldier, and I
sincerely wish the fortune of war may one day enable me to shew the gentlemen of the
Spanish army, with whom I have had the honour of forming an acquaintance, with what
gratitude I appreciate their friendship and politeness, and none more highly than your
excellency's.
With sincere, 8lc.
(Signed) Z.M. PIKE.
(No. XIII.)
To his Excellency General Salcedo.
Chihuahua, 6th April, 1807.
SIR,
HAVING been for near "the space of a year absent from my country, and the pro-
bability of its being yet two or three months before I arrive in the territory of the United
States, the necessity of passing through some hundred leagues of foreign territory, with
the distressed situation of my troops, induce me to apply to your excellency for a
necessary supply of money. Any arrangement which may be conceived proper for the
repayment, I will cheerfully adopt, either to pay it to the Spanish consul at New
Orleans, or the ambassador of his Catholic Majesty at Washington.
The sum which I conceive will answer the present purposes of myself and troops, is
one thousand dollars, for which I will give you such vouchers as your excellency may
conceive proper. »
I have the honour to assure your excellency of my
high respect, and to be
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) Z. M. PIKE.
•
TRANSLATION.
For the 1st Lieut. Montg. Pike.
According to the solicitation you have made in your letter of yesterday, that from the
royal treasury of this place there should be delivered you one thousand dollars (which
you say are necessary for the accommodation of the troops of the United States of
America, which you have under your charge) or whatever other sum you choose to dc-
3 H2
420 APPENDIX.
mand; and the government of the United States shall refund the said sum to the Senor
Marquis de Casa Yrujo; I have directed the formula for you to sign of four correspond-
ing and quadruplicate receipts.
God preserve you many years,
(Signed) NIMESIO SALCEDO.
(No. XIV.)
To His Excellency Brig.-Gen. Dorr Nimesio
Salcedo, commandant-general of the In-
terior Provinces of the kingdom of New
Spain.
Chihuahua, 14th April, 1807.
SIR,
ON my marching from Santa Fe, Governor Allencaster informed me that my paper*
would be considered as a sacred deposit until my arrival at this place, when your
excellency would examine and take them into consideration. When they were
examined and taken possession of, I explained without disguise the nature and con-
tents of each, conceiving that those only which had any relation to the object of my ex-
pedition, could be interesting, and that merely a copy of the chart, and translations of
the official papers would be taken. You must be conscious, Sir, that it was in my power
to have secreted, or destroyed every trace of my voyage and plans, previous to my arrival
at Chihuahua, but resting satisfied that no rupture had taken place between his Catholic
Majesty and the States I have the honour to serve, which would be a justification for
the seizure of my papers, I preferred leaving them instatu quo, to using duplicity, which
in some degree always implicates the character of a military man. Admitting the
country which I explored to be contested between the two governments, each would
naturally wish toobtain information as to its geographical situation, in order that they might
form correct ideas as to what would be their mutual interest, founded on justice and the
honour and dignity of the nation, in forming the line of demarcation. This was the'
view of the United States government in the expedition which I had the honour to
command, and the loss of the geographical sketches taken, might be the occasion of a
suspension of the final line of limits, aud consequently the delay of an amicable adjust-
ment of the now existing differences between the two governments. Your excellency
may not have any intention to detain my papers, which I had only begun to suppose
from your returning part by lieutenant Walker; in which case you will please to excuse
this intrusion: but I will add, that if you have it in view, should you be pleased to exa-
mine them with particularity, yotv will find that there are letters from General Wilkinson ,
as-well as his son to me, also from the latter .to his father and mother, and others, .which
APPENDIX. 421
are by no means of a political nature, or at least not as respects to the relations existing
between the government of Spain, and the United States, and therefore can by no means
be interesting to your excellency. The book which contains my charts, also contains
part of the sketches of a voyage to the source of the Mississippi, which I presume cannot
be interesting to the Spanish government. But to conclude, I have only to request of
your excellency to 'know if it is your intention to seize on my papers, now in your
possession? if so, that you may cause me to be furnished with, or suffer me to take, a copy
of them, and that I may receive a certificate from under your hand of the number,
nature, &c. of the said papers, and the reason for their seizure, in order that my go-
vernment my be enabled to make the proper application to the Spanish court for an
explanation. My reason for applying to your excellency so early on this subject, is,
that on the arrival of my men who are still in the rear, I might be prepared to march in
a short period of time, for under the present aspect of affairs I feel conscious that I
am as anxious to arrive on the territories of the United States, as your excellency must
be for me to quit the dominions of his Catholic Majesty. In all events, I hope you will
believe me to be with the highest sentiments of personal respect,
Your most obedient servant,
(Signed) Z. M. PIKE.
(No. XV.)
To his Excellency General Wilkinson.
Chihuahua, 20th April, 1807.
MY DEAR GENERAL,
NEVER did I sit down to address you with a heart so oppressed with anxiety and
mortification; but knowing the uncertainty which must exist as to the fate of myself
and party, I conceive it proper to attempt a communication, although I think it ex-
tremely uncertain, owing to the difficulty of the route, and to various circumstances
which are not to be communicated in a letter, whether it may ever come to hand, or at
least, previous to my arrival at the territories of the United States. I was detained in
the mountains of Mexico until the month of January, and in February found myself,
with eight of my party only, on the head branches of the Rio del Norte, which I then
conceived to be the sources of the Red river, our information making the latter extend
the whole distance between the former and the Arkansaw, although its sources are some
hundred miles below either of the others.
Here I was encountered by two officers and one hundred men, who bore orders from
the governor of New Mexico to cause me and my party to march to the capital of that
province; but his request was in the most polite style, and in fact, the commanding
officer assured me there was not the least constraint, but that his excellency desired a
conference, and that I then should be conducted by the most direct route, to the navi.-
422 APPENDIX.
*
gable part of the Red river, from whence F could immediately descend to Natchitoche*.
Although dubious of the faith of the invitation, and being in a situation where I could
have defended myself as long as my provision lasted, or until I might probably have
escaped in the night; yet knowing the pacific intentions of our government, and the
particular instructions of my general as to my conduct in case of a rencontre with a
body of Spanish troops, I conceived it most proper to comply with the demand and repair
to Santa Fu; and, as the rest of iny party who remained in the mountains, were
many of tliem invalids, and not in a situation to be able to return, I conceived it most
proper to leave orders for them to follow, accompanied by an escort of Spanish troops
left for that purpose.
On my arrival at Santa Fe, his Excellency Governor Allencastcr informed me it was
necessary that I should immediately march to Chihuahua, in the province of Biscay, in order
lo present myself to his Excellency the Commandant-general N. Salcedo, for further
orders. This being so different from what I had been taught to expect, I demand-
ed of Governor Allencastcr, in a written communication, to know if I was to consider
myself and party as prisoners of war? He replied in the negative. We marched on
the following day, and arrived at this place on the 2d instant, from whence I am in-
formed by the general, I shall march on the arrival of the remainder of my party for
Natchitoches.
I must here acknowledge myself and party under infinite obligations to the friend-
ship and politeness of all the Spanish officers, and in a particular manner to the com-
mandant-general of these provinces.
Should the politics of our country make it necessary to augment the army previous
to iny arrival, I "hope the general will approve of my aspiring to a considerable pro-
motion in the new corps. Should the line of demarkation be amicably adjusted between
the United States and Spain, I hope to obtain the appointment of one of the commis-
sioners, as 1 make bold to assert that with respect to the arrangements necessary, and a
knowledge of the country through which the line must pass, 1 am better instructed than
any other officer of my age in our service; and, if joined to a colleague of profound
astronomical knowledge, we could surmount every difficulty. I likewise beg leave to
suggest to your excellency that I conceive the information I hold of considerable con-
sequence in the determination of the line of limits, and that (if not already determined)
J can throw considerable light on the subject.
I hope your excellency will be pleased to forward orders for me to Natchitoches, in-
forming me if I am to descend to Orleans or proceed to the federal city? and if the
latter, permitting me to pass by Louisiana, in order to visit and arrange the affairs of
my family, to whom I beg the favour of my general to communicate the certainty of
the existence of myself and Dr. Robinson, who begs to. be sincerely remembered to
you.
APPENDIX 423
The general will pardon the requests I have made of him, knowing the confidence of
my heart in the paternal and soldierly esteem which he has manifested for him, who
has the honour to be,
With every sentiment of esteem,
Respect, and high consideration*
Dear General,
Your obedient humble servant,
(Signed) Z. M. PIKE.
(No. XVI.)
TRANSLATION.
To Montgomery Pike, First Lieutenant of Infantry.
OF the papers connected with the expedition, which, by orders of the United States
government, you have made from the St. Louis of the Illinois, into the settlements of
New Mexico, and which you yourself separated from the others which you brought
here, and put into my hand the day of your arrival, there have been found an inven-
tory, and certificate respecting each of them accompanying it, and deposited in the office
the 17th current for the purpose therein expressed. The judgment on which, remains
for die decision of the King my Lord; and shall be reported in the secret archives of
this captain-generalship. Considering that you have indicated in your summons
official to this government the greatest desire to arrive at the territories of the States,
I have resolved that you prepare to continue your voyage in two or three days, in conse-
quence of which the necessary arrangements shall be made, such as you, with the people-
of your expedition, have experienced until your arrival at this place.
God preserve you many years,
(Signed) NIMESIO SALCEDOV
Chihuahua, 23d Afril, 1807.
TRANSLATION.
INVENTORY of the Papersof the Lieutenant of Infantary of the United States of America,
Montgomery Pike, detained by the superior government and commandant-general of
the interior provinces of New Spain; as belonging to a voyage which he executed from
St. Louis of the Illinois, to the territories of New Mexico, to visit the Indian nations,,
and reconnoitre the country, appearing to have been his expedition undertaken at the
charge of the government of the said United States and by orders of General Wilkinson
* See my account of the seizure of the papers, April, Sod. 180T.. %
424 APPENDIX.
No. J. letter from General Wilkinson to Pike, dated 24th of June, 1806.
2. Another from the same to Pike, 18th July, 1806.
3. Another from the same to another officer, IQth July, 1806, ' ..:'...
4. Another from the same to Pike, dated 6th August, 1800.
5. Letter from Lieutenant Wilkinson to his father, 27th October, 18O6.
6. Another from ditto to ditto, 28th October, 1806.
7. Letter from Pike to General Wilkinson, 22d February, 1806.
;' * A .Ditto from Lieutenant Wilkinson to Lieutenant Pike, 26th October, 1806.
9. Proclamation of General Wilkinson, prohibiting any citizen of the United
States trading with the Indian nations, without permission from the government, dated
10th July, 180*.
10. A letter from Charles Jonet, agent for the Indians, to General Wilkinson,
dated 10th July, 1806.
11. Notes of Lieutenant Pike on the voyage from New Mexico to Chihuahua, of
four pages. -'
12. A rough manuscript of the Missouri and Osage rivers.
13. Letter from Sergeant Ballenger to General Wilkinson, unsealed.
"•" 14. Letter from Lieutenant Wilkinson to Pike, without date.
15. A certificate in the French language of a certain Baptiste Larme, found in
the Osage nation, and specifying his motives for being there.
16. A bundle of papers in the French language, which contained notes on the
harangues and manifestoes, which Lieutenant Pike had delivered to the Indian nations.
17. A passport of Lieutenant Pike to the Indian Winafricure a captain of the
little Osage.
•* . • .19. A small draft or map of the country, which is situated between the Mississippi
and Santa F£, with a description of that town and a notice of having met with three
thousand Camanches.
19. A book in octavo, a manuscript which contains the diary of Lieutenant Pike,
from January, 1807. to the 2d March in the same year, when he arrived at Santa Fe,
in seventy-five pages.
20. A book in quarto, manuscript, in pasteboard, with copies of letters to the Secre-
tary of war and General Wilkinson, and various observations, astronomical, 8tc. relative
to the commission of the Lieutenant, in sixty-seven pages.
21. A manuscript book in folio, containing different plans of countries, See. with
a diary with rhumbs, distances, and worked observations, and meteorological tables,
which arose from a revisal of the voyage, by the said Lieutenant Pike, in forty pages.
Don Francisco Valasco, first officer of the secretaries of the captain-generalship
of the internal provinces of New Spain, and Juan Pedro Walker, Officer of the company
of horse of the royal presidio of Janos, Certify that the lieutenant of American infantry,
APPENDIX. 425
Montgomery Pike, when presented to the commandant general of the before-meutioned
provinces, Don Nimesio Salcedo, produced a small trunk, which he brought with him*.
And that in the presence of the undersigned, he opened it himself and took out different
books and papers. When having separated with his own hands, all that appeared to be
or that he said were private, or had no connection with the voyage; he delivered the
remainder to the demand of the commandant general, which were solely those com-
prehended in the foregoing inventory which we have made, and for the verification of
which we have annexed our signatures.
(Signed) FRANCISO VALASCO.
JUAN PEDRO WALKER.
Chihuahua, 8th April, 1807.
(No. XVII.)
To his Excellency General Nimesio Salcedo.
Chihuahua, April 14th, 1807.
SIR,
I HOPE your excellency will not attribute it to presumption, or a disposition to
intrude, when I address you on a subject foreign- from my official duties, and on which
I can only speak as an individual: but I should feel myself wanting in humanity, and
that attention which every man owes to his fellow creatures in distress, were I to remain
silent ; and more especially when those are my compatriots, and some of them formerly my
companions — now in a strange country, languishing out their days far from relations and
friends, with hardly a dawn of hope remaining of ever again being blessed with the view
of their native homes. It is scarcely necessary to add that I allude to the unfortunate
companions of Nolan, who having entered the territories of his catholic majesty in a
clandestine manner, equally in violation of the treaties between the two governments,
the laws of the United States, and those of Spain, could not be reclaimed or noticed by
their country. Yet, from every information I have received on the subject, the men of
the party were innocent, believing that Nolan had passports from the Spanish governor
to carry on the traffic of horses. I pretend not to justify the many irregularities of their
conduct since in the Spanish dominions, but hope that it may be viewed with an eye
of clemency, as they are most of them very illiterate, having received scarcely any
education. David Pharo was formerly a subaltern in a company of infantry of the
United States, commanded by my father, the time I served as a volunteer, but left
* The falsity, want of candour, and meanness exhibited in this certificate is manifest, and was an imbecile
attempt to shew that all my actions were Ttiluntary and that in the delivery of my papers, there was no degree of
Constraint,
3 i
426 APPENDIX.
service (as I have been informed), owing to some irregularities of conduct. His having
been once my companion entitles him at present to my particular attention; yet I will
here mention to your excellency, a circumstance which may appear, if known, in an
unfavourable light, viz. About 15 days past I was informed Pbaro was in town, and
that he desired to see me. I was extremely mortified at receiving the information, a&
I conceive he must have left his post in a clandestine manner, yet I could not find in
my heart to refuse the interview which I gave, but determined at the same time to
inform you of the circumstance, conceiving that you could not look on it as a matter
of much criminality.
But to conclude, I have to beg of your excellency, if in your power and consistent
with the line of conduct you conceive proper to pursue, to inform me if any thing can
be done towards restoring those poor fellows to their liberty, friends, and country, and
in a particular manner I intercede for Pharo. If it is out of the power of the general to
grant them leave to return to the United States, I beg to know if there is any objection
to my taking out letters to their fathers, wives, &.c. I should not have addressed this
letter to the general, had I not conceived the fate of those men to be at his disposal, as
he had suffered one of them to join the service of his catholic majesty; neither do I
request the honour of any other than a verbal reply, as I write in the character of an
individual, and not as an officer of the United States.
I am, sir, with high consideration,
Your humble obedient servant,
(Signed) Z. M. PIKE.
(No. XVIII.)
To his Excellency, Governor Salcedo.
Natchitoclies,20th4ugusl, 1807.
SIB,
PREVIOUS to my departure from Chihuahua, we had entered so fully into the sub-
ject of die seizure of my papers, that I should never have made another appeal, until I
made one through our government to the ambassador of his Catholic majesty, had I not
received orders to that effect, it not being known at the time these restrictions were
given that the propriety of the seizure had been contested between your excellency and
myself. But as yon have now had time fully to reconsider the business, it may not
appear in the same light that it did when I had the honour to address you before
APPENDIX. 427
Your excellency may be induced to conceive, that the measure of seizing my notes,
plans, meteorological and astronomical observations, &c. for part of the Mississippi,
Missouri, Osage, Kanses, and Arkansaw rivers, waters acknowledged by the Spanish
government to be within the known territories of the United States, may not be justi-
fiable. Whatever may be your opinion on these subjects, I am at an entire loss to con-
ceive, how and upon what principles you could involve in that seizure, letters from indi-
viduals to individuals, the contents of which could in no wise be interesting to the
Spanish government. I have therefore once more to appeal to your excellency, with a
hope, that the time you have had for deliberation may induce yoa to conceive it proper,
and but an act of justice, to deliver up the papers seized at Chihuahua, and hope your
excellency will have the goodness to address them to me in a packet, to the care of the
commanding officer of this place. If the continuation of an amicable understanding
between the two nations, is an object of estimation in the mind of your excellency, the
final demarcation of limits must be considered as the first good step to be taken towards
its accomplishment; and to enable my government to form a correct idea on that subject,
it was requisite they should be well acquainted with the geographical situation of the
heads of the Arkansaw and Red rivers, the former part of which I had accomplished,
and could with all ease have carried the remaining part of that object into execution,
(after discovering my mistake of the Rio del Norte for the Red river) had I been per-
mitted by the Governor of North Mexico; instead of which I was hurried through the
country to Chihuahua, without having time given for the absent part of my party and
baggage to join me, by which means I was obliged to appear in a garb and manner incom-
patible with the rank I have the honour to hold; and which in some degree offered an in-
dignity to the country whose commission I bear. And to add to my mortification, I was then
deprived of the information I had obtained at the risk our lives, and the suffering of un-
known miseries. The information contained in my notes, was not only of a geogra-
phical nature, but also such as would enable the executive of the United States to take
some steps to ameliorate the barbarous state of the various savage tribes whom I visited,
and 1 may be permitted to add, would have added in some small degree t» the acquire-
ments of science, which aie for the general benefit of mankind. When I left Chihuahua,
I was informed my sergeant and party were detained near that place, in order that they
might not be permitted to join me, that by a separate examination they might be in-
timidated to make a declaration to justify the conduct observed towards us. This I am
conscious must have failed, but I am at an entire loss to conceive why they should have
"been detained until thjs time, when your exceTlency assured me they should follow me
immediately. Tkeir detention has been of considerable private injury to myself, and an
msuh to my government. "Wuee I marched from Chihuahua, your excellency officially
3 I 2
428 APPENDIX.
informed me that every thing was prepared for my transport to our lines ; but! was much
surprised to have to pay for the hire of horses, 8te. demanded of me, at the first place
where we changed our .escort. As I neither conceived it just that I should pay for the
involuntary tour I had taken through your territories, neither was I prepared to do it.
But, as your officers were responsible, and gave their receipts for the transports, and
from the orders received by Captain Viana at Nacogdoches, I was obliged to hire beast*
to take me to Natchitoches, although an escort of your troops was furnished.
I here with the greatest pleasure embrace the opportunity of acknowledging the
polite treatment I received from your officers in general on my route; but in. a-particular
manner to Colonels Cordero and Herrara, to-Captains Barelo and Viana, with Lieutenant.
Malgares; to all of whom it would be my greatest pleasure to have it in my power to*
return the compliment. Will your excellency do me the honour to. present my high rer-
rjespects to your lady, and my compliments to Mr. Truxillo and Father Hocus.
I am, Sir> with the most
Profound consideration,
Yojir obedient servant,
(Signed) Z. M. PiKE..Capt,
. (No. XIX.)
To Captain Pike, U. S. Army.
New Orleans, May 20th, 1807..
DEAR SIR,
AFTER having counted you among the dead, I was most agreeably surprised to find-,
by a letter from Gen. Salcedo, received a few days since*, that you were in his possession.
* THE FOLLOWING IS THE LETTER HERE REFERRED T.I.
From General Salcedo to General Wilkinson,
Dated Chihuahua, 8th April, 1807.
EXCELLENT SIR, (
ON the 16th of February last, John Robinson appeared before the •Governor of New Mexico, saying
that he was a Frenchman, inhabitant of St Louis, which place he had left on the 15th June last year, .
with the view of going to the country of the Pawnees, to make recoveries; that having received '•
information that his debtors had directed their steps to the said province, he had concluded to follow
them in company with liftecu other persons, who went for the purpose of hunting .OB the rivers,
APPENDIX. 429
and that he proposed sending you, with your party, to our frontier pest. I lament that
you should lose your papers, but shall rely much on your memory, and although it was
unfortunate that you should have headed Red river, and missed the object of your
enterprize, yet I promise myself that the route over which you have passed will afford
some interesting scenes> as well to the statesman as the philosopher. You will hsar of
Arkansaw, and Colorado- (Red river); that in the neighbouring mountains the two last of his
company had left him, for which reason he saw himself under the necessity of proceeding to the
Jet-in Indians, to whom he explained his situation, and who accordingly agreed to conduct him.
On the 25th of the same month of February, at the distance of four days journey from the town
of Santa Fe, and nine leagues vest of its settlements, at the place called the Ojo Calient6 (Hot Springs)
near the confluence of Hio Grande del Norte, (Great North river), and that known under the name of
Rio de losConejw (of Rabbits)) adetachmentof the garrison of the said province of New Mexico, met
Montgomery- Pike, 1st lieutenant of the infantry of the United States, with eight men of the said in-
fautrv, who, on being given to understand that he must be conducted to the laid town, consented to
accompany them.
It was then settled that two of his men should'remain on the spot, with half of his catholic majesty's
detachment, to wait for six others who had not yet arrived, and he proceeded to the governor's, to
whom he declared, that his being iu that neighbourhood was owing solely to his having been losti
and having mistaken the Rio Del Norte for the Colorado. But this officer, in compliance with the
orders of his superior officer, forwarded the said 1st lieutenant, with the six men of the American
army, and the above mentioned John Robinson, to this capital. They arrived here on the Sdinst. and
the said officer on being presented to me, laid before me in the same manner as he had done to the go-
vernor of Santa Fc, the papers relative to his mission, the correspondence he had carried on with your
excellency since it commenced, with his journals and note books. Your excellency is not ignorant
of the repeated representations made by the king's minister in the United States the Marquis of
Casa Calvo, whilst he was in Louisiana, summoning the American government not to carry, into effect
any projects of extending, its expeditions.into territories unquestionably belonging to bis Majesty. You
must therefore, without any further observations or remarks on my part, be satisfied that these do-
cuments contain evident, unequivocal'proofs, that an offence of magnitude has been committed against
bis Majesty; and that every individual of this party ought to have been considered as prisoners on
the very spot. Notwithstanding such substantial and well grounded motives that would have warranted
such a measure, wishing to-give the widest latitude to the subsisting system of harmony and
good understanding, and above all, firmly persuaded that your excellency will take such steps a*
your judgment may suggest, as best calculated to prevent any bad consequences on the occasion,
I have concluded to keep in this general government all the papers presented by Lieutenant Pike, •
and to give hint and his men full liberty to return to your excellency, after having treated them with
attention and offered them every assistance they stood in need of.
I am without reserve and beyond expression, your most obedient, humble, respectful, and faithful'
servant, and pray that God may preserve your excellency many year*.'
(Signed)
430 APPENDIX.
the scenes in which 1 have been engaged, and may be informed that the traitors whose
infamous designs against the constitution and government of our country I have
detected, exposed, and destroyed, are vainly attempting to explain their own conduct by
inculpating me; and, among other devices, they have asserted that your's and Lieutenant
Wilkinson's enterprize was a premeditated co-operation with Burr. Being on the wing
for Richmon d, in Virginia, to confront the arch traitor and his host of advocates, 1 have
not leisure to commune with you as amply as I could desire; let it then suffice to yon
for me to say, that of the information you have acquired^ and the observations you have
made, you must be cautious, extremely cautious how you breathe a word, because the
publicity may excite a spirit of adventure adverse to the interests of our government, or
injurious to the maturation of those plans, which may be hereafter found necessary and
justifiable by the government.
I leave Colonel Gushing in command of the district, with plenary powers, and have inform-
ed him that you have leave to repair to St. Louis, by the most direct route, the moment you
have communicated to me in duplicate the result of your travels, voluntary and involuntary,
in relation to clime, country, population, arts, agriculture, routes, distances, and military de-
fence. The president will be impatient to have whatever you have acquired, and to the de-
tailed account a sketch must be added, and the original and duplicate addressed to me at
the city of Washington, with the least possible delay. You may make up your report at
Natchitoches, and proceed from thence to the Washita, and from thence to the
Arkansaw, or you may descend to Fort Adams, and proceed thence to St. Louis, by the
most convenient route. Colonel Gushing, whom I leave in command of the district,
has my orders in your favour, and will give you every indulgence; but as an expedition
is now in motion up the Arkansaw, to explore it to its source and further north-west, it
is highly important you sliould, either in person or by two or three confidential men, sewl
forward to the Arkansaw every information which you may deem essential to the success
of the enterprize. A Mr. Freeman, under the chief direction of Mr. Dunbar of Natchez,
lias the controul of this operation. The escort, which consists of thirty-five select non-
commissioned officers and privates, is commanded by Lieutenant Wilkinson, seconded
by Lieutenant T. A. Smith. This detachment, with two boats suitably equipped, will
reach Natchez in eight or ten days from the present, and will proceed with all possible
despatch. You will address your communications to Lieutenant Wilkinson, who, after
many hardships and difficulties, reached this place about the first of March. He has
finished a pretty good traverse of the river, and his journal Is interesting. I think the
present party will winter near the Arkansaw Osages, about six hundred miles by the
river from the Mississippi. The president mentioned you and your explorations to the
source of the Great river, in his address to congress, m handsome terms, and I am
convinced he has a proper sense of your merits, and will do you ample justice. I offer
you leave to go immediately to you family, because I apprehend it will be most desirable;
APPENDIX. 431
yet, if you possess in your information aught which you may desire to communicate in
person, you are at liberty to proceed, by the shortest route, to the seat of government,
near which you will find me, if alive, three or four months hence.
'I pray you to attend particularly to the injunctions of this hasty letter, and to believe
me, whilst I am your general,
Your friend,
(Signed) JAMES WILKINSON.
(No. XX.)
To General Wilkinson.
Natc/ritoches, 5th July, 1807.
D£AB GENERAL,
ONCE more I address you from the land of freedom, and under the banners of our
country. Your esteemed favour of the 20th May now lies before me, in which I
recognize the sentiments of my general and friend, and will endeavour, as far as rny limited
abilities permit, to do justice to the spirit of your instructions.
1 must premise to your excellency that my letter of the 20th April, dated at Chihuahua,
went through a perusal by general Salcedo, previous to his forwarding it.
That letter stated the mode of my being brought into Santa Fe, and I will now state
to your excellency the proceeding on the subject of my papers. I will omit the hauteur
of the reception given me by Governor Allencaster, for a more particular communication,
which changed afterwards to extreme politeness.
Being under no restrictions previous to arriving at Santa F4, I had secreted all my
papers which I conceived necessary to preserve, leaving my book of charts, my orders,
and such others as might lead the governor to know me in my proper character, and
to prevent his suspicions being excited to a stricter enquiry.
On examining my commission, orders, Sue. he told me to remove my trunk to my own
quarters, and that on the morrow he would converse with me on the subject. I bad
caused the men to secrete my papers about their bodies, conceiving this to be safer than
leaving tht-m in the baggage; but in the evening, finding the ladies of Santa F6 were
treating them to wine, &c. I was apprehensive their intemperance might discover the se-
cret, and took them from all but one (who had my journal in full) who could not be found,
and put them in my trunk, conceiving the inspection was over; but next morning an offi-
cer, with two men, waited on me and informed me he had come for me to visit the governor,
and had brought these two men to take up my trunk. I immediately perceived I was out-
generalled. On my arrival at the governor's house, his excellency demanded if I had the
key. My reply was in the affirmative; when he observed " it is well;" my trunk should be
a sacred deposit in the charge of the officer, who would escort me to Chihuahua; for which
place, after dinner, I marched, under the escort of Lieutenant Don Faciendo Malgares,
and sixty-five men. The character of this officer I beg leave to introduce to the attention.
432 APPENDIX.
of your excellency, as an European possessing all the high sense of honour which formerly
so evidently distinguished his nation, as the commandant of the six hundred troops who
made the expedition to the Pawnees, as an officer of distinguished merit, who in his
mode of living fully justified the pomp and style of his actions, who outshines many of
their governors of provinces, and whom in my future reports I shall have frequent occa-
sion to quote. He observed to me, "The governor informs me, sir, your trunk is under
restrictions, but your word of honour as a soldier that no papers shall be taken out, and
you have free ingress, as usual." I gave it, and I presume it is scarcely necessary to add
it was religiously adhered to.
On our arrival at Chihuahua, the general demanded my trunk, and on its being opened1
and the papers laid on the table, he took them in hand one by one, and demanded
the purport of each, which truth obliged me to declare; and had I been disposed to have
equivocated, Ensign Walker, of his catholic majesty's service, who stood present and
assisted in the examination, could immediately have detected the fraud; also his
excellency understands sufficient of the English language to discover the general purport
of any paper.
After going through them in this manner, and separating them into two piles, he ob-
served to me, "You will leave those papers for my inspection, and in the mean while,
in concert with ensign Walker, (who will give the Spanish translation) you will give me
a detailed account of your route, views, destination, &c. and during that time I will
examine the papers now before me." To this I agreed, flattering myself that it was
his intention to return me my papers, by his demanding a sketch; also, so great was my
confidence in the all-protecting name of my country, I conceived it was a greater step
than the general would venture to take, to seize on the papers. But when I had finished
the proposed sketch and presented it, and found a still further delay, I addressed the
general on the subject, when, after a few days, some were returned, but 1 was officially
informed, that " the remaining papers were seized, but would be kept in the secret
cabinet of that captain generalship, until the pleasure of his Catholic majesty was
known,"—at the same time I had presented to me a certificate specifying the number and
contents of those detained, and stating that they were assorted by my own hand, and
voluntarily. This assertion was so contrary to truth, honour, and the line of conduct a
general should have pursued with a young gentleman, that I took the liberty of telling
one of the officers who signed the certificate that it was incorrect. But as Sergeant
Meek was still in the rear, with nearly all my baggage, I took care to give him orders
that none of the said baggage should be opened, except by force, which will evince that,
although I preferred acting like a gentleman to obliging General Salcedo to resort to
rough treatment, it was not a voluntary surrender of my papers. But the gene-
ral will please to recollect that my journals were saved at Santa Fe, which were con-
tinued and are entire to this post; a fortunate circumstance of the doctor's having copied
APPENDIX. 4SS
course, artd distances through all the route (except an excursion we made tp'th*
source of the river La Plate) tr> the Spanish territories, preserved them. These will
enable me to exhibit a correct chart of the route, although not so minutely as the''one
seized on, which was laid down daily by the eye and angular observations. Thus my
only essential papers lost were my astronomical observations, meteorological tables, and a
book containing remarks on minerals, plants, 8cc. with the manners, population, customs,
Sac. of the savages; but the results of the former were in part communicated, and probably
my journal may supply part of the others, and our memories will make the loss of the
latter of but little consequence. While in the Spanish territories I was forbidden the
use of pen and paper, notwithstanding which I kept a journal, made meteorological ob-
servations, took courses and distances, from the time I entered their country until my
arrival at this place, all of which I brought safe off in the men's guns (where I finally
secreted my papers) without detection. '.' '.
.' From our unremitting attention day and night, the immense territory they led us
through, and the long time we were in their country, I have been able to collect (I make
•bold to assert) a correct account of their military force, regular and irregular; also, im-
portant and interesting information on geographical situations, political sentiments, and
dispositions of the people of every class, the manners, arts, resources, -riches, revenues,
'value and productions of theirmines, situation, &c. 'Stc. with the annual revenues paid
.Bonaparte; and had we possessed as great a knowledge of the Spanish language wlicti we
entered the territories as when we left them, our information would have been nearly as
complete as I could have wished it, if sent expressly for the purpose of acquiring it, by
the open authority of his majesty. But the French language was greatly beneficial, in
which, my communications were sometimes made. By the sergeant, who is still in the
rear, and was never suffered to join me, as General Salcedo conceived he should probably
procure some information from him, which lie could not if immediately under my orders,
I expect many other communications of importance from many individuals, who JJTO-
mised to forward them by him. But I presume the general has found himself in an
error, as I perceive by a letter from him to Governor Conjcro, the sergeant killtid one of
Jlis men, in consequence of some improper conduct, and the general accuses him of great
intractability, as he is pleased to term it. From the foregoing statement your excellency
will observe that 1 yet possess immense matter, tlie result of one year's travel, in a
country deserted and unpopulated, which has been long the subject of curiosity
to the philosopher, the anxious desire of the miser, and the waking4 thoughts and
'sleeping dreams of the man of ambition and aspiring soul, and in our present critical
situation, 1 do conceive immensely important, and which opens a scene for the generosity
and aggrandizement of our country, with a wide and, s plead id field for harvests- of honour
for individuals. But my papers are in a mutilated state, from the absolute necessity I
was under to write on small pieces in the Spanish country; also, from being injured in
3 K
434 APPENDIX.
tbe gtm barrels, some of which I filed three times off to take out the papers. These cir-
cumstances would make it necessary, in the first place, to take a rough copy as they
stand; then it will be necessary to assort the matter, as military, political, moral, trade,
clime, soil, Aw. all. now form an undigested mass: then, Sir, die combining each, the
plotting, &c. would take up a lime of considerable extent for one man; and to make
duplicates after they were in order could not be done in three montlis. The general
may recollect it was nearly that period before my reports were completed last year,
although assisted by Mr. Nau and the sergeant-major, and sometimes by Lieutenant*
Wilkinson and Graham. Ako, with respect to the Spanish country, I must know the
extent of the objects in view, in order to embrace those points in my reports; and, further,
my dear Sir, my health is by no means the most perfect, my eyes being so extremely
weak that it is almost impossible for me to continue for one hour with the pen in my
.hand, and by that time I have a considerable pain in my breast. From these circum-
stances my general will perceive the almost impracticability of my complying with the
contents of his letter as to duplicate reports from this place; but I shall immediately
commence the business of arranging and digesting n»y papers, and will proceed with the
labour with every perseverance my situation will permit of until the arrival of my ser-
geant and the residue of the party (should they not retard more than twenty days) when
1 shall proceed immediately to St. Louis, and from thence through Kentucky, Virginia,
&.c. to the federal city, making no unnecessary delay, and all the whole of the route pro-
secuting my business at every leisure moment. When at Washington I flatter mysetf
wiih your assistance and advice. As I propose taking courses, distances, jfcc. Iron*
thence to St. Louis, it will be making the tour of the greatest part of Louisiana, crossing
the main rivers at different points, when I am certain, with the survey of the Missouri
by Captains Lewie and Clark, my own of the Mississippi, Lieutenant Wilkinson's of the
Lower Arkansaw (which river I surveyed to its source) and Mr. Dunbar's of Red river,
may be formed the completes! survey of Louisiana ever yet taken.
The instruments I had with me I wish the general to inform me in what light they
stood, as most of them were ruined in the mountains by the falling of the horses from
precipices, 8cc. and I left an order at Chihuahua for the sergeant to sell them at a cer-
tain price, as the addition of a land carriage of five hundred leagues would not add to
their benefit. Barouey, if alive, is with my sergeant, and has proved a noble fellow in
his line, and I beg liberty to recommend him to some appointment near the Kanses,
should any oiler. I must further add the following anecdote of my men, in whose breasts
lay tbe whole secret of my papers, and whom frequently, when in the Spanish territo-
ries, 1 was obliged to punish for outrages committed in a state of intoxication, yet never
did one offer, or show a disposition to discover it. It is certain they knew instant
APPENDIX. 435
death would follow; but still their fidelity to their trust is remarkable. I have charged
them as to communications, and shall dispose of them in such a manner as not to put
it in their poweir rto'give things much publicity. Dr. Robinson has accompanied me
the whole route,; is still with me, and from whom I take a pleasure in acknowledging
I have received important services, as my companion in dangers and hardships, ami
counsellor in dilh'culties, and to whose chemical, botanical, and mineralogical knowledge,
the expedition was greatly indebted^ ia short, Sir, he is a young gentleman of talents,
honour, and perseverance, possessing, in my humble opinion, a military turn of mind,
and would, i believe, in caseipf an augmentation of the army, enter, if be could obtain
a rank above a subaltern.. I hope the general will be pleased to have my copies for*
warded by Lieuteuaut Wilkinson, so that J -can' •command the use of them at Washing-
ton; also, ali my letters written liim during the expedition,as they contain information
I.wish to refer tu, and the copies were seized. J)c. Sibley^hps informed me.theexpedition
up the Arkansaw is suspended, which supersedes the necessity of my sending the ex-
press ordered.
I congratulate the general on the safe arrival of Lieutenant Wilkinson, and am sorry
to hear of the difficulties he encountered. I have been obliged to draw money of the
Spanish government, which I have to pay to their ambassador at Washington. I supported
those of my men who were with me all the time in the Spanish country, being separated from
my baggage, and never permitted to have it join me, andhaving been presented tothecom-
mand.in t-gcneral in-a blanket cappot: I was nnder the necessity of going into very considerable
expense to support what I not only considered my own honour, but the dignity of our
army. This, where a captain's pay is two thousand four hundred dollars per annum,
was a ruinous thing to my finances; but I hope it may be taken into due consideration.
After making myself pretty perfect in the French language, I have obtained such a
knowledge of the Spanish as to make me confident in asserting, that in three or four yean
I will with ease make myself master of the latter, Italian, and Portugueze, sufficiently to
read all, and speak and write the Spanish. The doctor has even exceeded me in that
point. I mention this to the general, as I know the interest he takes in the improvement
of his military protege. .;. -.
We had heard in the Spanish dominions of the convulsions of the western country,
originating in Mr, Burr's plans, and that you were implicated; sometimes that you were
arrested, sometimes superseded, &,c. Those reports (although I never gave credit
to them) occasioned me great unhappiness, as I conceived that the shafts of calumny
were aiming at your fame and honour, in a foreign country, where they had hitherto
stood high, and were revered and respected by every class. At St. Antonio Colonel
Cordero informed me of the truth of the statement, which took a load from my breast
and made me comparatively happy, and I hope ere long the villany will be unmasked
436
APPENDIX.
and malignity and slander hide their heads. The before-mentioned gentleman seat
you by me a box of Spanish chocolate, which I shall forward to Colonel Gushing.
Governor Herrara said the maliciousness of the world was such as t» forbid his writing,
but begged to be sincerely remembered to you. A letter addressed to me Cincin-
nati, Ohio, may possibly reach me on my route, when I hope to receive the appro-
bation of my conduct. Many letters written to me, addressed to this place, hare been
secreted or destroyed: probably the general can give me a hint on the subject.
These ideas have made a deep impression on my mind, and did not an all-ruling
passion sway me irresistibly to the profession of arms and the paths of military glory,
J would long since have resigned my sword for the rural cot, where peace, health, and
content would at least be our inmates, should not our brows be crowned with laurel.
• I must now conclude, as this letter has far exceeded the bounds proposed when com-
menced; but the effusions of my Leart are such on its contents, that 1 could not limit
them to a more contracted space. Excuse my scrawl, as. I am entirely out of patience,
but believe me to be, - -I
."" Dear general, ..',
.;•-.-'. •' • •.'•.-•.-•
..,-. '. 1 • With high respect and esteem,
'•' '• Your obedient servant,
• ,i. v . . . /•.,' .(Signed) Z. M.
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END.
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