5 1 ir^ ^ -< S5 MV" ^UIBKAKTC//^ ^ OF ''/AflVflHii'V ^OFCAIIFO^ ^t-UBRARYQ^ <^sMllBRAR^ ^TiuoNvsm^^^ %a3AiNn3k\v '^iO'^ \(\]\\^y{ ^WEUNIVERJ/A ^ ^lOSANCflfx>. ^^OfCAllFO/?^ ^.OF •.IfJlUVW J^/^lHVHJin-^V^ >{9l)JVWflll. ,-^MFUVIVEPy//^ ^^.^OSA.'^CnfT^. iiv3jo-^ ;lOSANCEI it o 'K'lVERS-//. vjclOSANCEl o ;% ,M,OFCAIIFO% t o ^^ ^5\^FU^IIVFRy//,, ^^vlOS-ANCEier^ ifJOWV .^" ,T.Fti unnn i l^t ^irjNvsoi^'^ ^/sa^AiNniwv' .\W[UfJIVERS/A o o > = ^ ^•tfOJUVDJO"^ "^^OJIIVJ jo'f^ ^OfCAllFOi?^ ^0FCAIIF0% ^^AHVHaiiA^ ^c-AHvdan-^^'^ "^•QUDNVSOI^ AWtUfJIVERV/o o O " ^ vj.lOSANCflfj}> MINd-^UV ^lllBRARYa ^.aOJIIVDJO^ '^WJIlVl^jO^ iVERS/^ ^vlOSANCflff., ^OFCAllFOffiA '''5AHV}|flnAV<^ ^<9A}j Fi I 11^ ^ I ii /I be I i: ^ K ri AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES [Frontispiece. Australian Sketches Made on Tour BY HARRY FURNISS LONDON WARD, LOCK AND CO. LIMITED NEW YORK AND MELBOURNE CONTENTS PAGE RUNNING THE QUARANTINE BLOCKADE 9 A PEEP AT ALBANY, WEST AUSTRALIA 14 MEMS. ABOUT MELBOURNE , 21 RACING IN AUSTRALIA 29 A SUBURBAN RACE MEETING 37 SIDE-LIGHTS ON SYDNEY 42 MEMS. IN SYDNEY 45 *'THE DOMAIN," SYDNEY 47 CHARACTER SKETCHES IN SYDNEY 53 MANLY: THE BRIGHTON OF AUSTRALIA 59 A VISIT TO ADELAIDE 65 FOOTBALL NOTES 71 Some of these impressions were first published in the Melbourne Argus, and others in the pages of the Windsor Mamzine. Running the Quarantine Blockade AN American humorist tells a story of a man who was lost at sea, and who swam and swam for an interminable time. He gives the most graphic account of the feelings of this man whilst battling against the waves, and then says : "At that moment my friend touched something hard — it was the United States ! " Now, that belated GOING TO QUARANTINE American could not have had more difficulty in touching the United States than I and other passengers arriving last week in the good ship Victoria had in touching Australia. We had had a splendid passage all the way from London, and no illness whatever on board. The passengers did not leave the steamer at Aden, as there was no time ; and the Victoria arrived at and left Colombo with a clean bill of health. After a run of ten days, we reached Albany. Before boarding, the pilot — who, by the way, turned out to be harbour- 10 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES master and major-domo of the whole port — asked the usual question, "All well aboard ? " and being answered, " Aye, all well," unsuspectingly- stepped on deck. As soon as the anchor was dropped, the port health officer came alongside and informed us we were in quarantine. We soon learned that Aden had been declared an infected port, requiring the usual smallpox quarantine of twenty-one days clear. The steamer having only been sixteen days out from Aden, five days' quarantine was ordered. The OIK TO JlIE WEST weakness of the regulations was made evident by the fact that the steamer had a clean bill of health from Colombo. However, all the passengers for West Australia were taken off to quarantine, including the unfortunate harbour-master. I3ays before we arrived we had pictured to ourselves a rush to the goldfields as soon as we had touched Albany ; and immediately on enter- ing that prettily-situated harbour I made the sketch, " Off to the West," RUNNING THE QUARANTINE BLOCKADE II of impatient speculators and workers flying to fortune. Alas ! their impatience was to be cooled by a week of isolation on the quaran- tine station. There was one passenger in particular whose face is as well known in Australia as his name, so I need not men- tion it. He is an expert in mining, and was sent over by a large syndicate, whose representatives were no doubt waiting at the other end of the cable for his report, while he was rusticating in quarantine. We left him in his enforced captivity, and when last seen he was gesticulating and vowing vengeance on the health authorities. CONVALESCENT QUARANTINE ISLAND Prophetically, I picture to myself the saloon passengers so tired of each 12 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES Other in three days that my imaginary sketch, "Quarantine after Three Days," might easily be realized. Some of our passengers, rather than stay to enjoy the peaceful tranquillity of quarantine, came on in the steamer. Among these were a couple of "John- nies," that type well known here. They were evidently supplied with more money than brains, and proposed to purchase and float mining properties. If such youths are often entrusted with business of this kind, it is no wonder that bogus mines are often foisted on British inves- tors, and that the latter lose faith in Australian mines. The question of quarantine is one that creates a vivid impression on the minds of all strangers who happen to encounter it on their first arrival. Havinof spent five weeks in reaching Australia, they are naturally anxious to land at the earliest opportunity; and when prevented, they are slow to recognise the serious side of the situation, or the wisdom of sacrificing the comfort of the few to the health of the many. We are not all philosophers when our own comfort is at stake. I met one philo- sopher who had just done a term in quarantine, and he said it was better than liviiic; in any hotel in Australia, with the advantage of being free of cost. There was plenty of literature, he said — Punch of i860, Vanily Fair of 1.S70; |)]enty of objects for study for the naturalist — tarantulas, that sit around the room, and watch you like cricketers in "jOHNNins" KKOM IIOMK RUNNING THE QUARANTINE BLOCKADE 13 the field ; plenty of snakes, too, from five feet long ; and crocodiles of alarming aspect. Music was made in that haven of rest by flocks of black cockatoos, screeching in chorus to the energetic solos of the jack- ass. The picture presented by this philosopher made me quite regret to be landed at last on a prosaic jetty at Port Melbourne, instead of being sent to enjoy the hospitality of the West Australian Government in that Eden of the West. QUARANTINE — AFTER THREE DAYS A Peep at Albany, West Australia ALBANY is far from being a fair sample of Australian towns. It is known as " Sleepy Hollow," and bears out its name well, in spite of its increased importance owing to the recent mining boom in West Australia. I have shown the customary attitude of the Albanians, and it would ' CAB, SIR ? " appear that, presuming that there were some active members of this community once, they have flown to the goldfields, and only left behind the "dead-beats." The solitary case of activity I saw was that of a party of five boys, who had the only cab at the end of the pier, and were loudly soliciting the custom of the arriving;; travellers. The courage of our party did not rise to trusting our lives to a driver sub-divided into five morsels, so the vociferations of the youngsters were without reward. 14 A PEEP AT ALBANY, WEST AUSTRALIA 15 A careful survey of the visible specimens of West Australian society leads one to the conclusion that Albany has given way at the knees. The lanky Cornstalk who met the tender was clearly afflicted that way. Then the Dutch-looking gentleman in the pince-nez had the same blemish. He was a carter, by the way — think of it, a carter ALBANY INHABITANTS, AS SEEN FROM THE P. AND O. STEAMBOAT wearing a pince-nez ! The row of loafers that I sketched, watching the tender as it arrived — watching, it seemed, for the unwary " new chum " — were also gone at the knees, as must be obvious from my drawing. Our first sight of " Sleepy Hollow " fully justified its name. On the Parade every seat was occupied by sleepers in all stages of repose, from the deathlike slumber of the person who had evidendy been i6 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES makino: a niQ:ht of it elsewhere, to the tor- por of the rest- weary creature whose natural condition seemed to be an unvarying com- promise betwixt waking and sleeping. Some of the weary ones had, however, sufficient energy to crawl across the Parade and watch some Indian jugglers perform- ing outside the hotel. The police trooper apparently shared the popular aversion to exercise, as, seated at ease on his noble charger, he chatted pleasantly with a kindred lazy citizen. Judging from the proportion of this trooper's anatomy which was utilised in feet, one would suppose that he must be of the mounted infantry order. His appearance recalled an old sketch by John Leech, in Punch, of " the footiest man on a horse that was ever seen." A feature of a visit to Albany is the shipping of gold for London. The gold is packed in wooden boxes and sealed, and an eagle-eyed official accompanies them and sees them securely locked in the bullion room. The mere sight of the outside of the boxes containing such j)recious freight i)roduces some semblance of eager interest in the bystanders, and they crowd around to catch a glimpse as it comes along on the railway trucks. When the L(old is j)laced on board the tender, we are allowed to go too, but not before. The look on the face of the man at the wheel denotes plainly that he has in his care a charge much ■JlIK CAKMAN Wim I 111-: I'lNCE-NEZ A PEEP AT ALBANY, WEST AUSTIN ALIA 17 more valuable than our poor lives. So stern is the glint in the eye of this son of the brine that it might well strike awe into the heart of the boldest gold-robber and for- bid him from plying his trade here. One poor mortal, who is seated gazing with hun- gry eyes at the gold, bears unmistakably in his coun- tenance the crushed and beaten look of the stony- broke. I cannot help wondering whether he is one of those hopeful new arrivals, whom I sketched a few weeks ago, flying off to the gold- fields. Perhaps he is one of the poor, over-laden and harassed mil- THE SCENE OUTSIDE THE HOTEL SOME ALBANY HORSEMEN lionaires of these parts. The dead-beat and the millionaire have, after all, much in common — particularly the millionaire. i8 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES The casual visitor quits Albany without gaining a glimpse of the glory of the Golden West. All the activity is in Perth, to which place all the intercolonial steamers go, as well as some of the vessels from other parts ; and, but for the calling of the mail steamers, Albany, one would presume, would scarcely exist at all. The position is, however, one of much importance in a strategic sense, and King George's Sound is well defended. SHIPPING GOLD It is well known that the Australians are very particular indeed about the quarantine laws, and great is the anxiety experienced amongst the passengers as the ship approaches St. George's Sound ; U)T those who arc desirous of landing at Albany, in order to rush off to seek their fortunes in the mines of Western Australia, are well aware that should there be the slightest symptoms of contagious disease on board, they will be doomed to a i)rolonged stay, possibly of several weeks' duration, on " Quarantine Island." A PEEP AT ALBANY, WEST AUSTRALIA 19 Except to those who are anxious to hurry to the mainland, and who consequently resent the delay, there is no very great hardship involved in this compulsory residence. " Quarantine Island," which is in reality not an island at all, but a peninsula, is at the side of the Bay, and contains a building greatly resembling a small hospital, which is presided over by a Mr. Douglas and his wife, who ably fulfil an arduous position, for not only have they to cater for the stranded passengers, but they have to do their best to pacify and console those who chafe under the restric- tions and rules which are neces- sarily enforced in order to make the isolation efficacious — the most stringent rule, of course, being that which prevents any of the passengers undergoing quarantine from visiting the mainland on any pretext whatever. Provisions are brought to the " Island " daily in unstinted quantity and of excellent quality, and a safe means of communication exists in the use of the telephone, through which medium both the temporary and habitual residents can converse with their friends on the mainland without the slightest danger of spreading infection. Students with a taste for natural history will find, as I have noted on an earlier page, much to interest them on the " Island," for not only does it boast of the common or garden spider in considerable quantities, but also the tarantula, snakes, allii^ators, and black cockatoos — at least, GAZING WITH HUNGRY EYES AT THE COLD 20 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES so I am informed. I am also assured that, while fowls and game may- be purchased daily from the mainland by those who wish to supplement the vienii provided by the management, the true sportsman will have no difficulty in bagging a snipe for his breakfast, should he wish for a little sport in the early morning. Mems. about Melbourne How refreshing, when one walks jaded in the streets of Melbourne, to see all the advertisements on the tram-cars that one can be whisked in a few minutes, and for the modest sum of threepence, to the quietude of the ocean beach. Perhaps the name is a trifle delusive, KEACONSFIELD PARADE, ST. KILDA and that particular stretch of sand at South Melbourne somewhat un- romantic ; still, we cannot have more for threepence, and that glimpse of Hobson's Bay is cheap at the price. It is interesting enough, too. There is that bewildering multiplicity of jetties — for what purpose constructed one can only guess — which give to the utilitarian food for speculation, and to the strollers footing for a walk. It may be well known what was the original purpose of these 22 A US TRALIAN SKE TCHES jetties, but to the casual observer they seem only monuments to a past prosperity. I would suggest that the Beaconsfield Parade be re-christened Bicycle Parade, for the place seems practically given up to wheeldom. I under- stand that the inhabitants of St. Kilda feel that they miss something when they go inland, away from Hobson's Ocean and its faintly haunting odour. That odour — seaweed and ozone, they say — is apt to drive the more fastidious away from the beach into a bosky solitude of Albert Park. The lake here is an imposing expanse of water ; nay, it is more than that, but A SHALLOW PRETEXT— ALBERT TARK I should not like to say how much more — perhaps 60 per cent, water, and the rest "added matter." After the "ocean" at South Melbourne, one expects to have to call this lake a sea at least. There is some good boating carried on here, the density of the water offering no serious im- pediment to the progress of the craft. A great advantage of this well- conducted sea is in its depth. On a fme summer evening it is crowded with boats, offering infmite chances of disaster ; but the gravest upset on such an occasion would be harmless, except to the clothes, for the— ah— liquid is only about two feet deep, and I picture a shipwreck and its con- sequences in the sketch. "A Shallow Pretext." MEMS. ABOUT MELBOURNE 23 A trip in the opposite direction one day led me to Royal Park, the habitat of all the savage beasts in Victoria. Zoos all over the world are pretty much alike, but the Melbourne Zoo has one striking and original feature which might well be enlarged upon. This is the introduction of wooden beasts, something like Noah's Ark animals in the rough. I have sketched one whose visiting card bears the musical sounding name of Diprotodon Longiceps. To those who have never met this engaging DIPROTODON LONGICEPS (m'COY) creature, I ought to explain that it is flat — flat as a flounder — about two inches thick, a mere silhouette. Happily, the original is extinct, other- wise he might rise up and protest against the fun that the scientists of Victoria have poked at him. I know, by the way, that his pet name is M'Coy. It doesn't seem appropriate, somehow. I think if all the animals were treated in the same way, it might save a lot of trouble, and might make the Zoo more amusing to some, perhaps more terrible to others. I gave a hint in the sketch of the Elephantorum Trunkuli, which seems a pleasing variation on the monotony of original 24 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES Jumbos. I would gladly present the Zoological Society with a model AT THE ZO© from this sketch, but I fear it might turn out the White Elephant of the Gardens. '^"^-^^^yjy i A I!1T OK ANCIENT MELBOURNE I was very anxious to get a sight of ancient IMelbournc, but could MEMS. ABOUT MELBOURNE 25 not find any one to direct me there. One friend told me he had heard of a deserted village, with a town hall i^iven up to rabbits, which he thought was more than ten years old, but this was not what I sought. At last a knowing one hailed me to an out-of-the- way district, where he pointed out a num- ber of houses something like this one, of which I took a note. He said there were some more, but that they had been moved away, all standing, to some township a hundred miles away. I fancy this one refused to be moved, and threatened to lie down. I am still looking for ancient Mel- bourne. My last mem. is a sketch of an antique party, whom I have named " Old Turkey." He carries about live turkeys for sale, and is a convincing demonstration of the fact that people grow to resemble their most constant^ associates. His appearance is much more birdlike than his birds. The Law Courts in Melbourne are the best constructed I have seen ; those in Sydney are old-fashioned and the worst. In Melbourne they are airy and light, and at the same time have a style and dignity becoming their use : a richly-polished massive mahogany throne for the judge, nicely arranged seats for the Bar, plenty of room for the public, and, above all, a pleasant little perch for the witness. It has been the custom in Law Courts from the darkest ages to make a witness into a prisoner by tor- turing him in the courts, not only by the tongue of the cross-examiner. " OLD TURKEY " 26 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES A BUNCU OF BARRISTERS but by the unpleasant position in which witnesses are placed by the architect of the court. The Irish courts are perhaps the most hu- morous, and at the same time the most awe - inspiring in this matter : there a table is placed in the well of the court, upon which a chair is placed, and the witness has to sit in this chair with his feet on a line with the barristers. with his back either to the jury box or the prisoner ; and having got the nervous witness into this most uncomfortable position, he is at the mercy of the cross-examiner, who asks him one moment why he does not look at the judge, the next moment why he does not look at him ; rebukes him im- mediately afterwards for not showing his face to the jury, and then suggests that his evidence cannot be worth much as he is afraid to face the prisoner. By this process the nerves of the strongest witness would break down. Now, in IMclbournc, there is a nice little circular stand where a witness can gracefully pose and imagine himself in a Roman T'orum of old ; certainly he has to be grateful to the designer of the Mel- bourne courts for giving him an advantage he would not get elsewhere. And Justice Hawkins, had he been in Australia MR. JUSTICE IIOLKOYK MEMS. ABOUT MELBOURNE 27 OLD CHIPS instead of England, would not have worried the poor counsel sitting under him into premature ai;e, for he could hardly turn a Melbourne court into the badly ventilated, stifling, unhealthy den he has pre- sided over in the old country. Perhaps in visiting a Melbourne court one would pay more attention to the courts themselves than to the proceedings, as they happen to be particularly dull and uninteresting. Some case about a cargo of wood brought forward witnesses interestinsf to the artist as types of good Australian stock. Another case was proceed- ing about the same time — a dispute among the Oddfellows. It is evident from my sketch that the oddest fellows crowded the court on the occasion. I had not the pleasure of hearing the leader of the Bar, — I might call him the Russell of Aus- tralia, — Mr. Purves, but what I did hear of the eloquence of the Bar was enough to show a stranger that they were quite as able as any man A TIMBER WITNESS 28 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES we have in England, as they made some of the most stupid cases one is likely to meet with entertaining to a marvellous degree. It may be interesting to members of the Bar to know that I gathered from their brother barristers in Australia that the idea of mixing solicitors' and barristers' practices has been tried in Australia, and with one accord condemned as injurious to both professions. ODDFELLOWS SOMKBODY IN TIIK SUI'REME COURT Racing in Australia ORSE-RACING is certainly one thing which is managed better in Australia than in any other country in the world. It is also safe to say that this sport is better managed at Flemington, the Epsom of Victoria, than anywhere else in Aus- tralia, The differences between the conduct of racing in Australia and in England would take too long to treat fully. In the first place, in England, racing is for racing men, the public being scarcely considered at all. In Australia the racecourse is for the people, and nothing astonishes the stranger more than the perfection of the arrangements for syOy the convenience of the public at Flemington, the scene of the famous Melbourne Cup. Another thing is curious, and that is the quiet and orderly behaviour of the crowd at this racecourse. In fact, apart from racing, it would be diffi- cult to find, all the world over, a better behaved or more interesting crowd. Taken altogether, the race meetings at Flemington are among the wonders of the world. From the greatest to the smallest detail, nothing which ingenuity can devise or money procure is omitted. To take one 39 30 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES IN THE TADDOCK YOUNG AUSTRALIA TAKES AN INTEREST RACING IN AUSTRALIA 31 instance, the ladies' boudoirs arc as lavishly furnished as the rooms of the finest private houses. The management provide perfumes for general use, and upon the tables are placed cushions with needles, ready threaded with silk of all colours, so that a lady can sew on a button or put in a stitch in case of an accident to her toilette. Speaking of toil- ettes, it is generally understood that the annual gathering at the Melbourne Cup is, in point of dress, one of the greatest func- tions of the world. Magnificent as is the accommodation for the " classes," however, the masses are equally well provided for. Behind the grand-stand the hill rises and affords a view of the course. Upon this there is a garden which any English squire might envy. Here the humbler folk can "camp out" with their picnic baskets and enjoy themselves to their hearts' content. Boiling water is supplied, so that they can have tea in their own way without expense. This garden is picturesque and wild, as though Nature had made it, and gives no uncomfortable suggestion ot a need to "keep off the grass" ; at the same time it is perfecdy planted and kept, and is altogether an ideal retreat. At the back of the grand-stand are huge letters of the alphabet, placed at equal distances — this is one more of the many happy thoughts of the secretary for the comfort of the public. The intention is to provide readily dis- AN OLD STARTER AT FLBMliNGTON 32 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES THE people's garden THE START INC; MACHINE RACING IN AUSTRALIA 33 tinguishable landmarks for people who wish to appoint a meeting place for friends. An appointment to meet at a given hour at A, B, or C, avoids all confusion which might arise from naming a less definite trysting place. The train service at Flemington is admirably managed. There are different exits for different parts of the course, and when returning, only sufficient people to fill one train are allowed on the platform at once. You take your seats in comfort, without any rush or crush. As soon as one train moves off another is ready, and every one gets away without the least inconvenience. Coming to the management of the course and the racing, there are several points upon which the Australian institution is much better con- ducted than similar places elsewhere. The "starting gate" is a remark- able innovation and works to perfection. The use of this invention does away with all the tricks of jockeys, by which some make false starts purposely to fret and tire the cracks. The difference between a start with the gate and one without it is great. The regularity and machine- like promptitude of the one, as seen in Australia, makes the start on the old system, still in vogue in England, look ridiculous. Considering the long delays and unsatisfactory starts which the English custom in- volves, and the frequent appeals to the committee against jockeys, it will not be surprising if the system is adopted at home. I have sketched the clerk of the course on his white charger — an old-time racer, I under- stand — engaged in superintending a start. As the horses cannot pass the " gate " until it is raised, there is no possibility of any obstreperous ones breaking away. It might be supposed that there would be some difficulty in getting horses to face this strange object, but there is hardly any objection on this score, horses readily getting used to it. In another sketch I show Mr. George Watson, who has officiated yinpTiT;.']'':' THE BRl'I'ISH METHOD OF STARTING THE AUSTRALIAN METHOD THE EENCE IN ENGLAND ■JUK FENCE IN AUSTRALIA A STUDY IN CONTRASTS 84 RACING IN AUSTRALIA 35 THE CLERK OF THE COURSE as starter at Flem- ington for many years. When I saw this veteran he was sitting in the weigh- ing room, having been invalided, and obliged for a while to forego his accustomed duties. Some of the bookmakers of Mel- bourne have physi- ognomies sufficiently striking to attract observation, though it would be flattery to designate them as personally attractive. It is otherwise with the ladies, and it is somewhat of a sur- prise to a stranger to see fashionably-dressed ladies walking about the paddock unattended, admiring the horses and comparing notes, a thing which in England would be considered impossible. But then it must be remem- bered that every as- pect of the pastime is different in the two countries, and generally the advan- AusTRALiAN KooKMAKERs tagc is grcatly in 36 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES favour of Australia. In England there is a disgraceful disregard of public convenience, and, whereas from an Australian meeting you return home as spick and span as you left, in England you are lucky If you reach home without having your clothes torn off your backs, ladies in particular finding the ordeal extremely trying. In England the course is a pandemonium, the rough element dominating the situation. In Aus- tralia, to a great extent, this element is absent. Yet another difference in the actual racing is found in the sensa- tional nature of Australian steeplechasing as compared with the same sport in England. Stiff fences and huge stone walls are fixed on the Australian courses, and the way in which the riders go at these for- midable obstacles is sensational and the results often startling. Fatal accidents to horses are of quite frequent occurrence, and not a few jockeys are killed outright or maimed for life, while severe falls with more fortunate endinos are so numerous as to excite no notice what- ever. It is well known that a famous Australian jumper, racing in England, failed to obtain a place in any of the chief contests simply be- cause he lost time and labour in jumping high over his obstacles, not understanding a fence which is constructed to suit horses which can run but not jump. The universality of the interest taken in racing in Australia is cer- tainly conspicuous. Every one goes to most of the chief races, and it is considered quite an ordinary thing for ladies to bet on the course. Young people also appear to take an absorbing interest In the sport, and not unfrequently are seen indulging in the ruling passion for backing the winner. A Suburban Race Meeting A FEW NOTES IN THE CROWD NE thing which immediately strikes a stranger visiting the race- courses in Australia is that, while in England racing is carried on in the first place by and for owners and trainers, and the ^ifei^^^S5S^^ AMOXG THE BOOKIES public entertainment is the secondary consideration, in Australia the public is the first consideration. This catering for the public is carried to per- ?.8 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES fection at Flemington. I went, however, a few days ago to a suburban race meeting of a different class, and paid my two shillings to mingle with the crowd. At this place the " bookies " adopt much more extravagant me- thods of advertisement than at Flemington ; one in particular attracted my attention with a wonderful hat labelled all over '' double event." It was interesting to note that among the crowd were husbands and wives debating about their inv^estments in the ring. Here were elderly respectable labouring people, some seemingly past the three score and ten, displaying keen zest in the proceedings. Boys, almost children, astonished me by their conversation. They ap- peared thoroughly familiar with the intricacies of the betting- ring, and A BOOKIES HAT were wagermg away their weekly pence with the recklessness of a plunger. Some of these youngsters I saw scrambling up the wire netting which divided the crowd from tlie course at one point. From this coign of vantage they called out encour- agements and criticisms to the jockeys as they passed, showing that they were no strangers in these parts. I noted that a [)ortion of the ground immediately abutting on the course seemed part of a farm, and its a[)pearance gave YOUNG SrORTSMEN A SUBURBAN RACE MEETING 39 a rural picturesqueness to the scene. Racing touts of maturer years se- lected a spot far from the madding crowd to get a word with the CLOSE TIME jockeys as they passed on their preliminary canter before the race. The questions asked seemed innocent enough, but were intended to elicit something in shape of a tip at the eleventh hour. The youth who asked his friend in the saddle, "What are you on, Bill?" is not, as one might fancy, inquiring the name of his mount. An extraordinary sight at this meeting was to see some thousands of hares, more or less tame, in the centre of the course, huddled to- gether in batches. They had a good view of the racing, but they have soon to take part in a more serious race — a race for life in the cours- ing season, as I understand they are preserved for that purpose. In the steeplechases we had the usual mishaps- and a jockey or two injured. The pluck and dash shown in these races make a stranger wonder that a jockey is ever left intact at the winning AFTER A STEEPLECHASE -a few horses killed e i '•'•' / " 1VHAT ARE YOU ON, BILL?" JIKTWKEN THE KVEXTS 40 A SUBURBAN RACE MEETING 41 post. As It is, I notice a jockey arriving after a race with his boot off and his jacket in tatters. He cheerily sakites a brother jockey, who is just convalescent and hobbles about with a stick, and jokes pass about the latest spill, showing that these hardy fellows enjoy the humour of their mishaps, and make light of their perils. Side-Lights on Sydney SYDNEY, so old-fash- ioned in everything, curiously enough has either never adopted, or if it has, has discarded the old- fashioned Barrister's Wie for the Speaker of its Parliament. This is a pity, for it struck me forcibly that if ever a Speaker wanted a wig, it was the presiding genius over all the debates in Sydney. Not only did his " dome of thought want re-thatching," but his spacious neck seemed as if a little horse-hair would have saved him from the draughts of the open doors, which flapped to and fro on either side of the chair ; the gown was all right, but the knee-breeches and the buckle shoes and the were missing. The Sergeant-at-Arms— a handsome old gendeman— 42 Tllli SI'EAKKR Wig who SIDE-LIGHTS ON SYDNEY 43 looked the part down to the waist with his cut-away coat and his frill, was but a commonplace individual so far as his legs were concerned. Where were the knee-breeches, the silk stockings, and the buckles? In fact, looking over these few sketches I made in my first walk through Sydney, it will be observed there is a total absence of dignity and that A WELL-KNOWN FIGURIi A MEMBER OF THE OPPOSITIOr picturesqueness of figure always attributed to the Australian until one sees him at home. The Police Constable, for instance, has hardly the figure one would imagine excessive horse exercise would allow to remam, and from the huge whip he carries in his hand, one must believe that ne still keeps true to Australian habits by living on horseback. A member of the Opposition surely neither rides nor cycles to the Parliament 44 A US TRALIAN SKE TCHES House ; and judging from the statues, the best type of Sydney men must have been of the same order, or else the sculptors of Australia have done a serious injustice to its great men. I select the "Dalley" statue. Who could believe that this gentleman was ever a fiery orator or a leader of men. But after all the harbour in Sydney is considered so beautiful that it more than makes amends for any inartistic drawbacks the town may possess. ■IIIE DAI.I.EY STATUE Mems. in Sydney T HE Sydney Law Courts are cramped and old- fashioned. I visited the Divorce Court, my atten- tion having been directed to it through reading that a "record" had just been made in the number of cases poHshed off at one sitting. Matrimon- ial suits are tried in a room about as large as a packing-case, where people have to walk on one another when they move about. The cases tumble over one another with just as little ceremony, and are disposed of at the rate of nineteen a day ; at least that, I understand, is the record recently put up. I should think this beats Chicago, where liberated spouses are turned out by machinery. As I left, I noticed a typical " sundowner," who had been looking in at the proceedings. I asked him if he was looking for work. The eloquence of his silence, and the speaking blank- A " sundowner" 45 46 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES ness of his look, I shall not easily forget. He stood transfixed while I made this note, and he had not found a word to express his senti- ments when I left. IJIE SYDNEY DIVOKCIi; COURT cc The Domain/' Sydney THE "larrikin" has been described before as being one of the lowest types of humanity in the Colonies ; yet he does not look it, and there is another phase of low life which does not assume its correct role either. The "sundowner" — another name for the Sydney tramp — appears a greater ruffian than the larrikin, yet in many respects he is his superior. He is a loafer, not a sneak ; an idle, worthless, drunken ne'er-do-well, perhaps, but not the crafty, bullying blackguard that the larrikin is. There possibly may be amongst the sundowners many respectable but unfortunate citizens, driven through dire necessity to make their home in the Domain ; but it is when you get the mixture of larrikin 47 4S AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES and sundowner that the very- lowest type of character is ob- tained. In the sketch we have a horde of these ruffians stealthily creeping up in the twilight to worry and blackmail the innocent young lovers on the stone seat — doubtless fresh arrivals from the Old Country, continuing a flirta- tion begun on the steamer, where as fellow-passengers they have been thrown into each other's society for the past six or seven weeks. They are whispering vows of eternal fidelity, and so rapt are they in their mutual admiration, that they are NEWSPAPER PYJAMAS A lovers' meeting oljlivious of the approach (;f the wretches who make the Domain their happy hunting-ground from sunset to dawn. In the daytime, Hke the bats and owls, they vanish and keep in hiding, and then respectable people may enjoy the beautiful walks in ''THE domain;' SYDNEY 49 the park and about the Government House unmolested, and with their children and friends enjoy the beautiful and picturesque scenery with which the Domain abounds. The view of the harbour and the shipping is particularly animated and interesting, and there are many natural beauties to be observed in the park itself, which deserve more than a passing notice. Amongst other natural curiosities in one of the side paths are to be observed a group IN THE DOMAIN of rocks eaten away by the changing tides till they resemble nothing so much as a number of strange and uncouth monsters of a bygone age — at any rate, thus they were regarded by a lady and her charge who were admiring them on the day of my visit. Although the larrikin and the sundowner may not be rampant in the daytime, the Domain is not altogether free from an element of peril and danger of another kind. It is well known how important a 50 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES part the horse plays in the every- day Hfe of the Australian, and in this park the horses are allowed to graze at their own sweet will. Being very high- spirited animals and full of fun, there is quite an excitement when their owners come to capture them after having been loose all day. In stating that the accompanying sketch was drawn from A FREE-AND-EASY GALLOP A CIIARACTKRISTIC SPOT nature on the spot, it is necessary to explain (lest he should be accused of maligning the magnificent horses of Australia) that the artist was so " THE domain;' SYDNEY 51 disconcerted at the wild careering of the animals that he was unable to do justice to the drawing, although the native Australians seemed to regard the whole affair as a matter of course, and sat about on the grass quite undisturbed at the proximity of the horses' heels. As the sun sets, and the better class of visitors to the Domain retire, the park becomes the undisputed property of the loafers and sundowners, who nightly use the niches and crevices of the rocks as their dormitories, from the dim recesses of which they draw forth their ^•■^••^/. 4/ ^f^C»' ^^^^^kdm^f^^^^^'^^^^^ "^^ \0 ' ■ ^^^M ^^f'^^ffy^^^^ MORNING ABLUTIONS " bed-clothes," consisting of old newspapers and wrappers. Observe the gentleman in the sketch carefully adjusting his newspaper pyjamas and tying up himself in a weird fashion — thus literally becoming "wrapped in literature." In the morning these gentry perform their ablutions in the cattle troughs abounding in the park, and later on may be seen fishing for their breakfasts from the wooden piles in the harbour. They are sometimes fortunate enough to catch a sufficient number of fish to sell for a few pence, and thus provide themselves with food for the iy-^ AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES remainder of the day, till darkness once more drives them to their primitive resting-places. All tell the same tale : they were born tired, and have never been able to throw off the feelino^. It seems to the stranger a shame that the best parts of a beautiful park like the Domain should be given up to these vagrants, and that better regulations are not enforced to protect what might be made one of the most beautiful places of public recreation in the world, possessing as it does so many natural facilities and advantages. A strong hand is required to deal effectively with this difficult problem. f H t, A ) ^ V "t R^VAVU Character Sketches in Sydney SYDNEY on a Saturday night is a good deal like many another city ; most of its aspects are squalid and far from pleasing. In " Paddy's Market " we see gathered together a crowd which would not be out of place in the East end of London, although, on the whole, the Sydney crowd is less noisy and less good-tempered. Brawls are not frequent, but there is little of breezy good nature about these people. If they are enjoying themselves, they do not exhibit many outward signs of their gaiety. In this market the Jew cheap clothes sellers keep up the resemblance to the East end, adhering to that seductively aggressive manner which stamps their kind all the world over. Stalls with cheap lithographs, music, china and fancy goods, are 53 54 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES ranged side by side with the stands of venders of sweetstuffs, fruit and vegetables, fried potatoes and poultry, the last, which are "alive, alive!" addine to the confusion of sounds with their unmelodious cries. Outside the market, about the street corners, it is interesting to watch the groups around the street preachers, who hold forth in the lurid glare of a flaring oil lamp. The discussion on theology which takes place after- SATURDAY NIGHT W^ SUNDAY MORNINC wards would be amusing but for the seriousness of its subject — the opinions are so free and various, and the arguments so highly coloured. As a contrast, there arc the larger groups of people congregated in the courts leading out of the chief streets of the city, where betting and gambling are freely carried on as a regular thing. Here you find tradesmen, clerks, and scores of nondescripts of the lower orders, CHARACTER SKETCHES IIV SYDNEY 55 together with a fair sprinkling of larril{^ '^rjniMw.cniJ^ '^/c^3*lUft.lU\■^ ,^ ^\V\EUNIVERy/A. ,vWlOSANGflfj> rr\ -J " " ■ — AWEUNIVERJ/A ^J:?13QNVS01^ "^/iiiaAINIljykV^ ^^OJIIVDJO^ ^ = < vH- — ^ f^ ^OfCAllfOKfc ^OFCAllfOff^ •"'-'ll'iiiR*! «^\WEUNIVE^^ ^f^UDNVSOl'v^ AWEIINIVER% >>:lOSANCElfj;> iL^f tori <;^tUBRARYar ^<»ojr ^- ^OFCAUFOft^ ^Of ^J^l^ i I ^i 1^5 5' %; ^5MEUNIVER%. v^K — .< if I liiri > nv . ^iir nun /riir JJIJjnV MJl -^ •'.ft/' ^'Ai id! /invJjO^ IK* ^ll/MMlk; %,- ^VifCAllFOffyJl^ ^^Of CAii '^T^inNVW^ '^^mWHMWV' ^AHVJWn vAHVMJinV %oiimi^^ ■ Aril urxiunj/A O %il3AINn-3WV L 007 268 365 9 ^1 imim AOfCAllF0/a> ""ommi ^lOSANCfief;> A-Uf LAIlfU/j'^ 6s im^lMlii?n,r.^.'^'°'^*^ L'6«*R^ f ACILIT/ "&AbvaaiHvN 6: ■''»'''i"aaAlii.VJV\ .\WEUNIVER> 1^1 .lOS-,W,Flf % r* o A^ J I -< \Mfl'NIVERy//, i3^)l i^ ^.F-CAtlFOP, AWEUNIVERi/A a)^10S^ < ■! 3D *3 ^S5 ^finiKvw"^^ ■^Awuwiiiuv^