J7e,si< do py 
 HANDBOOK. OF 
 
 ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 ETTA PROCTOR FLAGS 
 
Department of Home Economic* 
 
 University of California 
 405 HilV'ard Avenue 
 
 r |f .<. ^mpiftf, 24. Calif^rnip 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 LOS ANGELES 
 
 GIFT 
 
SCHOOL OF OK ECOROiCS 
 
 STATE NOR/VIAL SCHOOL 
 
 Department of Home Economics 
 University of California 
 
 405 E:lgard Avenue 
 Los Angeles 24, California 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2013 
 
 http://archive.org/details/handbookofelemenOOflag_0 
 
A HANDBOOK OF 
 ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
A HANDBOOK OF 
 ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 ARRANGED BY 
 
 ETTA PROCTOR FLAGG 
 
 SUPERVISOR OF HOME ECONOMICS IN 
 THE LOS ANGELES CITY SCHOOLS 
 
 ILL US TEA TED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS 
 AND DIAGRAMS 
 
 BOSTON 
 
 LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY 
 1915 
 
Copyright, 1915, 
 By Little, Brown, and Compant. 
 
 All rights reserved 
 Published, May, 1915 
 
 Set up and electrotyped by J. S. Cushing Co., Norwood, Mass. , U.S.A. 
 Presswork by S. J. Parkhill& Co., Boston, Mass., U.S.A. 
 
no 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 This course has been arranged for the elementary 
 schools of Los Angeles, California. It has been 
 worked out to meet the conditions that exist in that 
 city and may be taught satisfactorily by the grade 
 teachers as far as the seventh grade. 
 
 A few of the suggestions have already been printed 
 in the School Arts Magazine and are reprinted through 
 the courtesy of the publishers. My assistants in the 
 department have given me many valuable sugges- 
 tions, and I am also indebted to the art department 
 for assistance in simple designs. 
 
SCHOOL 
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Preface . v 
 
 PART I 
 
 General Directions 1 
 
 Stitches used in the Fourth Grade .... 2 
 
 Stitches used in the Fifth Grade .... 4 
 
 Utensils and Materials 16 
 
 PART II 
 
 Outline of Work. Fourth Grade 27 
 
 Fifth Grade 31 
 
 Sixth Grade 41 
 
 Seventh and Eighth Grades . . 53 
 
 Supplementary Work ....... 54 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Doilies, Sewing Case, Bookmarker, Towel with Swedish 
 
 Weaving. Full Page . . . . . Frontispiece 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Hemming Stitch as it looks on the Right Side ... 7 
 Hemming Stitch as it looks on the Wrong Side, and How 
 
 to Join the Thread 8 
 
 Top Sewing-needle in Position 11 
 
 Buttonhole 13 
 
 Felled Seam 15 
 
 Pinwheel, Xeedle Case, Sewing Bag, Laundry Bag, Holder, 
 
 Towel. Full Page 28 
 
 Doll's Sunbonnet showing Squares Cut Out and One Side 
 
 Overcast 31 
 
 Stocking Darning 36 
 
 Draft of Sewing Apron 38 
 
 Cooking Apron 42 
 
 Fifth and Sixth Grade Bags. Full Page .... 46 
 Diagram of Cross Stitch Bag . . . . . .46 
 
 Draft for Cap 50 
 
 Dusting Cap . . .51 
 
 Supplementary Work. Designs in Cross Stitch and Em- 
 broidery for Underwear. Full Page .... 54 
 
 Inside of Magazine Cover 56 
 
 Laundry Bag 57 
 
 Rubber Bag showing Feather-stitching with Needle in 
 
 Position 58 
 
 Pattern for Apron, One-eighth Size . .... 61 
 
 Fancy Apron, One-eighth Size 68 
 
 Pattern for Front and Side Gore of Skirt .... 69 
 
A HANDBOOK OF 
 ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 PART I 
 GENERAL DIRECTIONS 
 
 The pupil should provide herself with the following 
 articles : 
 
 A bag or box in which to keep everything. 
 One paper of Milward's needles Nos. 3 to 9. 
 One paper of crewel needles No. 4. 
 A pair of small scissors. 
 A tape measure. 
 
 A spool of white thread, Clark's or Coats's, No. 70. 
 A steel or silver thimble. 
 
 The thread should be marked with the name of the 
 owner, and the scissors should have a tag with the 
 owner's name written upon it. 
 
 See that the hands are perfectly clean. 
 
 Let the light come from behind and over the left 
 shoulder if possible. 
 
 Always work with a thimble that fits the finger. 
 
 When obliged to take out stitches, use the eye-end 
 of the needle and pick out one stitch at a time. 
 1 
 
2 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 If left-handed, work with the left hand, unless the 
 parents are unwilling. 
 
 Be sure that nothing is left unfinished at the end of 
 the term. 
 
 STITCHES USED IN THE FOURTH GRADE 
 
 Basting. There are two kinds of basting that are 
 commonly used : the even and the uneven. For both 
 the work should be held in the same way. Place the 
 work over the forefinger of the left hand and work 
 from right to left. 
 
 Uneven Basting. Tie a knot in the thread. Take 
 a small stitch one eighth of an inch long, carry the 
 needle on half an inch, take another eighth-inch stitch. 
 Continue in the same manner. Fasten with two small 
 stitches taken over each other. 
 
 This is used for simple decoration and for a tempo- 
 rary fastening for seams or hems where no strain comes. 
 
 Even Basting. Thread as before ; make the stitches 
 all one fourth of an inch in length ; fasten as before. 
 
 This is used for seams where any strain may come, 
 and also by very young children for simple decoration. 
 
 Overcasting. Hold work over the left forefinger, 
 working from right to left. Fasten thread with two 
 small stitches on the wrong side of the cloth. Place 
 the needle one eighth of an inch below the edge or fold ; 
 point the needle to the left shoulder; take the next 
 stitch one fourth of an inch to the left; continue to 
 the end of the seam ; fasten with two small stitches. 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 3 
 
 Running Stitch. Fasten the thread with two small 
 stitches. Carry the needle forward one sixteenth of 
 an inch and take one sixteenth of an inch stitch through 
 the cloth. Continue these even stitches. 
 
 In gathering, use the running stitch but tie a small, 
 firm knot in the thread before beginning. In running, 
 hold the work in both hands and take several stitches 
 before drawing the needle through the cloth. 
 
 Blanket Stitch. The blanket stitch is used for 
 finishing raw edges, for working the loop and the 
 bar used in buttonholes, and for simple embroidery. 
 It is worked from left to right ; the buttonhole stitch 
 from right to left. 
 
 The depth of the stitch and the space between the 
 stitches may be varied and will depend upon its use. 
 Great care must be taken in joining and in fastening 
 the thread, or the edge will be uneven. To fasten the 
 thread used in blanket stitching, turn to the wrong 
 side, take a couple of running stitches under the last 
 blanket stitch, draw the needle through, and cut off 
 the thread. To join the thread, run the needle in 
 under the last stitch, as in the beginning of the work, 
 and draw it out over the thread that lies along the 
 edge. 
 
 For Canvas or Heavy Cloth. Insert the needle on the 
 wrong side at a point the desired depth of the blanket 
 stitch and take two or three running stitches to the edge 
 of the cloth; this will bring the thread in position for 
 the first stitch. Make the first blanket stitch over 
 
4 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 these running stitches. Holding the edge of the cloth 
 toward you, insert the needle from above at the same 
 point as before and bring it out over the thread; draw 
 the loop thus made to the edge of the cloth. Repeat 
 for successive stitches. For a simple finish, make the 
 stitches on the flannel as far apart as they are deep. 
 For a more ornamental finish, place several stitches in a 
 group, or the stitches may be of different lengths, or 
 spaces may be left between the groups of stitches. 
 
 For Embroidering an Edge. Take the stitches as 
 before but place them close together, so as to make a 
 firm edge. If desired, the edge may be padded before 
 working; the padding is done by working along the 
 edge with either the chain or the outline stitch. 
 
 Cross-stitch. The cross-stitch is used wholly as a 
 decorative stitch, usually on art canvas or so-called 
 cross-stitch canvas. The stitch is worked from right 
 to left and is made by taking small stitches diagonally, 
 in holes prepared for them, and then reversing and 
 crossing every stitch made in the first row. 
 
 STITCHES USED IN THE FIFTH GRADE 
 
 Stitching. Stitching is so called because it looks like 
 machine stitching. It is also known as back stitching. 
 Stitching is done by taking a very short stitch back- 
 ward on the upper side of the cloth and a longer stitch 
 forward on the under side, making the stitches meet on 
 the top, as in machine stitching. Fasten with two 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 5 
 
 small stitches. Hold the work over the left forefinger 
 and work from right to left. 
 
 Half-back stitching is the same as stitching, except 
 that the needle is put only half way back, thus leaving 
 a small space between the stitches. Both of these 
 stitches may be used where strength is required, or on 
 garments too small to be stitched easily on the machine. 
 
 Hemming. A hem is a fold made by turning the 
 edge of the cloth over twice and then sewing it down. 
 The first fold must be very carefully turned; if that is 
 even, there will be very little trouble with the second 
 turning. Trim the edge of the cloth before turning the 
 hem. Make the first turning very narrow, about one 
 fourth of an inch, or, better still, one eighth of an inch, 
 unless the material is very difficult to turn. Use a 
 measure for all hems except the very narrow. Baste 
 near the edge of the fold with uneven basting stitches. 
 
 Have no knot in the thread; hold the cloth across the 
 cushion of the left forefinger ; pointing the needle from 
 you, insert it at the edge of the fold, one fourth of an 
 inch from the right end, and bring it out close to the end. 
 Draw the needle through very carefully and leave half 
 an inch of the thread to be tucked under the edge of the 
 hem with the point of the needle. Take up two threads 
 of the cloth and set the needle into the edge of the hem, 
 keeping the needle in a line with the hem and pointing 
 to the left shoulder. Be sure that all stitches slant. 
 
 To Join the Thread. If there is no end left, pick out 
 a few stitches. With the needle draw the end under the 
 
6 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 fold and toward the thumb. Begin with a new needle- 
 ful, as when commencing the work, and put the needle 
 into the last hole from which the short end came out, 
 sewing both ends down with the next few stitches. 
 
 Featherstitching. The featherstitch is an ornamen- 
 tal stitch; it must be evenly done or it is worse than no 
 stitch at all. This stitch consists of two parallel rows 
 of alternating stitches, or groups of stitches, slanting 
 toward the center. Keep the same length of stitch 
 and the same slant. 
 
 Single Featherstitching. Work toward you, holding 
 the work over the left forefinger. Insert the needle 
 from the under side a short distance to the right or left 
 of the line to be followed and draw the thread through. 
 Place the left thumb over the thread to hold it down, and 
 on the opposite side of the center line, take up a slanting 
 stitch; the top of the stitch is as far from the center 
 line as the length of the stitch, and the bottom touches 
 the center line. Draw the needle out over the thread, 
 which will in this way form a loop of the thread from 
 the first stitch. On the opposite side, take up another 
 slanting stitch, the top of which is an equal distance 
 from the center line and even with the bottom of the 
 last stitch. Repeat for successive stitches. At the 
 end of a thread, fasten by passing the needle down 
 where the thread last came through the cloth, thus 
 holding the loop from the last stitch in place. Fasten 
 the thread on the wrong side by taking a few running 
 stitches through one thickness of cloth. Begin a new 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 7 
 
 thread by passing the needle up through the loop from 
 the last stitch. 
 
 Double Featherstitching. This is made by doubling 
 the number of stitches on either side, or by using groups 
 of three stitches alternately. Be very careful that the 
 stitches of each group are placed exactly under each 
 other. 
 
 Outline Stitch. Fasten with two back stitches, 
 keeping the thread above the needle, — that is, to the 
 left; then take up with the needle an eighth of an inch 
 of cloth and bring the needle out through the hole 
 made in starting the stitch. Be careful not to pierce 
 the thread. Proceed in the same manner. On the 
 wrong side the stitch should look like back stitch. 
 
 Hemstitching. Several different methods of hem- 
 stitching are used, and any one of them will prove 
 satisfactory if well done. 
 
 Showing the Work with the Hemming Stitch as it looks 
 on the Right Side. 
 
8 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 To draw the thread, choose a rather coarse thread the 
 desired distance from the edge and pick it out carefully 
 with the point of the needle. Hold this end with the 
 right hand and draw it out carefully, pushing the gathers 
 toward the opposite end with the left hand. When the 
 thread breaks, hold the cloth to the light, and again 
 pick out the end of the thread. Draw as many threads 
 as desired. Baste the edge of the hem very carefully 
 
 Showing the Hemming Stitch as it looks on the Wrong 
 Side, and how to join the Thread. 
 
 to the edge of the drawn threads. Hold the edge of 
 the cloth over the left forefinger, as in hemming. 
 Fasten the thread by taking two or three small stitches 
 in the edge of the fold. 
 
 Begin at the right side, as in hemming. Pointing the 
 needle toward you, take up three or four cross threads 
 and draw the needle through. Put the needle back, 
 take up the same threads, and insert the needle exactly 
 above in the fold of the hem. Continue in the same 
 manner, drawing the thread tight, to separate the 
 clusters of cross threads. 
 
SCHf'*: Of "% r FOOPSflPs 
 
 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMElSrTA^Y SEWING 9 
 
 A Second Method. Pointing the needle toward you, 
 and holding the thread under the left thumb, take 
 up three or four cross threads on the needle. Draw the 
 needle out over the thread, thus forming a loop, and 
 tight enough to separate the cross threads. Insert 
 the needle under the edge of the hem only and take an 
 ordinary hemming stitch. Continue along the hem in 
 the same manner. 
 
 Seed Stitch. This stitch is used for finishing hems 
 in an ornamental manner or where a simple, effective 
 touch is desired. 
 
 Take three short stitches (an eighth of an inch) over 
 each other; one back stitch going forward one fourth 
 of an inch beyond the last stitch; back one eighth of an 
 inch; sew over twice; forward as before. 
 
 Use embroidery cotton to develop this stitch. 
 
 Sewing on Lace. When sewing lace to an edge, 
 always hold the lace next to you. Lace may be sewed 
 on straight, or it may be gathered. At the top of most 
 laces a coarse thread may be found woven into the lace 
 for the purpose of gathering. Before drawing up this 
 thread, divide the lace into fourths; pin, with right 
 sides together, at point of division. Draw up the 
 thread, arranging the gathers evenly, and top sew to the 
 edge with fine, even stitches. If the lace is to be put 
 on plain, hold it loosely to the edge and top sew. 
 
 Sewing Lace around a Corner, W^hen sewing lace on 
 plain, to sew around the corner, top sew to a point as 
 far from the corner as the width of the lace. Measure 
 
10 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 from this point on the lace twice the width of the lace 
 and pin to the corner. Measure an equal distance 
 from the corner on the lace and pin to the other side. 
 Continue top sewing from this point and leave the 
 corner until later. When the rest is all done, run a 
 gathering thread into the corners, arrange the gathers 
 evenly, and top sew as usual. 
 
 Sewing Lace around a Corner (Gathered). When sew- 
 ing lace around a corner, proceed as before, with this 
 exception: the same fullness must be allowed on the 
 corner that is allowed on the straight edge, in addition 
 to that required for rounding the corner without draw- 
 ing; allow two and one half times the width of the lace 
 instead of twice the width. 
 
 Sewing Two Ends of Lace Together. If the lace has 
 a pattern, cut it with the pattern; lay one edge over 
 the other and buttonhole over each raw edge with fine 
 thread, or place the right sides of the lace together and 
 sew in a narrow seam ; lay the seam flat and buttonhole 
 over the raw edge and at the same time down on the 
 lace. If desired, turn a narrow fold in one piece of the 
 lace to the right side and in the other piece to the wrong 
 side; slip one under the other and hem down the two 
 edges. 
 
 Herringbone or Catch Stitch. " The herringbone 
 stitch is a cross-stitch used as a finish on flannel edges 
 or on heavy material. The stitch consists of single, 
 alternating, running stitches, made first to the left and 
 then to the right, from you instead of toward you as in 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 11 
 
 ordinary sewing. The thread, being carried across 
 from one stitch to another, gives the appearance of a 
 cross-stitch. The stitches on each side must be in 
 straight rows, with the outer row just over the edge of 
 the material. Point the needle toward you in making 
 the stitch, but work from you. In catch stitching a 
 small knot may be used, if it can be concealed. Fasten 
 the thread by running it in and out and under the last 
 stitch." 
 
 Top Sewing. " Top sewing is used for joining two 
 folded edges or two selvages. Hold the work between 
 
 Top Sewing-Needle in Position. 
 
 the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, the seam 
 parallel with the finger. Leave one half an inch of 
 thread after making a shallow stitch through one edge 
 of the cloth, the needle pointing toward the chest. 
 Lay this end of thread on top of the seam so that it may 
 be sewed down by the next few stitches. Pointing the 
 needle toward the chest, put it through both edges, 
 taking up as little cloth as possible. The stitches should 
 be slanting on the upper side and straight on the under 
 side of the cloth. Work from right to left. To finish 
 
12 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 the seam, sew back over the last few stitches. To join 
 the thread, leave half an inch of the old thread and half 
 an inch of the new thread, place both together on the 
 seam, and sew over them as you go on in the work." 
 
 Selvage edges are sewed together in making pillow 
 and bolster cases. When one edge has become stretched 
 and is longer than the other, baste with the long edge 
 toward the sewer, the seam held around the forefinger 
 of the left hand. 
 
 Combination Stitch. The combination stitch con- 
 sists of three little running stitches and a back stitch 
 over the last running stitch. Take three running 
 stitches on the needle and pull it through. Take up 
 the last running stitch for the first of the next group of 
 three stitches. This is a little stronger than the running 
 stitch. 
 
 Couching Stitch. Place a coarse thread on the line 
 desired and sew it in place with six or seven stitches to 
 the inch, so that the over-seam may lie at right angles 
 to the couching thread. Use either an overcasting or a 
 simple blanket stitch. 
 
 Chain Stitch. Bring the needle out from underneath, 
 hold the thread down with the left thumb, put the 
 needle down again in the hole through which you 
 brought it out, take up one fourth of an inch of the 
 goods, and draw the needle through, over the loop of 
 thread. This gives the first link in the chain. Put the 
 needle down at the end of this first loop and continue 
 as before. 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 13 
 
 Buttonholes. Cut buttonholes one inch apart and 
 
 quarter of an inch from edge of fold. 
 
 For practice cut buttonholes half an inch long, using 
 buttonhole scissors if possible. 
 
 Beginning at one corner, overcast to the left around 
 the two edges, making about three stitches on each side, 
 each stitch one sixth of an inch in depth. 
 
 Place the needle down through the cloth where you 
 began and, taking the double part of the thread in your 
 
 FofJ of c/oiL 
 
 BUTTOINTHOLE. 
 
 right hand, bring it over the point of the needle from 
 right to left; draw the needle out and pull the thread 
 through, being careful that the twist forms at the edge 
 of the cloth. Insert the needle close to the last stitch, 
 bring it through again, and loop the thread over as be- 
 fore. Be sure that the thread is brought toward the 
 last stitch and then around the needle. Continue 
 until you have finished one side; open the buttonhole 
 
14 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 as widely as possible over your finger and work around 
 the corner as if it were a straight edge. 
 
 Make second side like first. At the end place three 
 cross-stitches, each as long as the threads of the button- 
 hole are deep, and buttonhole over these, bringing each 
 stitch through the cloth. 
 
 If desired, the buttonholes may be made with a bar 
 at either end, or both ends may be rounded. 
 
 Buttons. In sewing on flat buttons, insert the needle 
 from the right side and back in order to hide the knot 
 under the button. Place the button in position and 
 hold a large pin or needle across the button to lengthen 
 the stitches. Put in five or six stitches diagonally 
 across the button and over the pin, keeping the stitches 
 as even as possible. Place the pin in the opposite 
 direction and take five or six stitches as before. Slip 
 the pin out, pass the needle through the cloth only, 
 and wind the thread around the threads five or six 
 times between the button and the cloth. Pass the 
 needle through the cloth and fasten securely. 
 
 Two-hole Buttons. Place the buttons so that the 
 stitches will come at right angles to the edge of the 
 cloth, with the pin across the button. Proceed as 
 before. 
 
 Loop Buttons. Place the button in position with the 
 loop at right angles to the edge of the cloth. Hold 
 the button with the left hand and top sew the loop 
 to the cloth. Pass the thread to the under side and 
 fasten securely. 
 
Felled Seam. Place two edges of cloth right sides 
 together, one edge being one fourth of an inch above 
 the other, and baste. Fold the upper edge over the 
 lower edge one fourth of an inch and baste one eighth 
 
 Felled Seam. 
 
 of an inch from edge. Sew on upper side just below the 
 basting with a fine combination or back stitch. 
 
 Take out the basting thread and lay the seam over 
 so that the raw edge is covered, press carefully with the 
 
 r - A«gelcs 24, CaSnis 
 
16 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 finger exactly at the sewing of the seam, baste on the 
 right side one sixteenth inch from seam. 
 
 Hem the folded edge to the cloth underneath. 
 
 French Seam. Baste the two pieces together on the 
 right side; stitch; trim to one sixteenth of an inch; 
 turn to the wrong side; crease firmly; baste just below 
 the raw edges; stitch again. The finished seam should 
 not measure over one eighth of an inch. The seam may 
 be used on nearly all underwear and in simple wash 
 dresses. 
 
 Mitered Corners. Two hems crossing each other at 
 right angles may be finished with either the square or 
 the mitered corner. All hems more than half an inch 
 in width should be mitered. 
 
 Fold and crease the hem carefully. Fold the outer 
 corner of this hem diagonally across to the inner corner 
 of the hem and crease very firmly. Open the hem wide 
 and cut off the corner of the cloth one fourth of an inch 
 outside of this crease. Fold the hem as before, first 
 being careful to turn in the upper edge of the mitered 
 corner so that it will come exactly to the corner of the 
 hem. Hem this diagonal portion so that no stitches 
 will show on the right side. 
 
 UTENSILS AND MATERIALS 
 
 Thimbles. The thimble is worn upon the second 
 finger of the right hand to protect the finger from the 
 eye of the needle. It should be worn always when 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 17 
 
 sewing. If possible, learn to push the needle from 
 the side of the thimble instead of from the top. 
 
 The first thimbles were made from iron and brass, 
 but now gold, silver, aluminum, celluloid, and steel are 
 used. Most of the aluminum thimbles prove unsatis- 
 factory in wearing qualities, and the brass ones dis- 
 color the finger; for general home wear the silver 
 thimble will prove the best. 
 
 Scissors. Scissors should be in every work-box or 
 bag. Select a good pair in the beginning, and they will 
 last through the entire course. Any reliable hardware 
 store will carry one or two satisfactory makes. The 
 Boker, the Wiss, and the Keen Kutter are all good, and 
 there are many others. Be sure that you have a pair 
 joined just tightly enough; if too loose, the blades will 
 slip past each other; if too tight, they will be hard to 
 open. Keep your scissors well sharpened at all times. 
 Shears with blades less than six inches long are usually 
 called scissors. 1 
 
 Needles. A needle is a small, pointed instrument 
 used for carrying thread through material. It has 
 been used since the earliest times. The present ones 
 are made from steel wire, but in ancient times they were 
 made from fish-bones, ivory, and bronze. The regular 
 sewing needle is made in several different styles called 
 " ground-downs, " " betweens," and " sharps." 
 
 The sharps are slender and long with a small eye. 
 
 The betweens are slender and short with a small 
 eye. 
 
18 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 The ground-downs are rather short and blunt with a 
 larger eye. 
 
 The darning needles are long and sharp with a long 
 eye. 
 
 The tapestry needles are short and blunt with a long 
 
 eye. 
 
 The crewel needles are of medium length with a long 
 eye. 
 
 Needles vary in size from No. 1 to No. 12. No. 1 
 is very coarse, No. 12 is very fine. The numbers most 
 commonly used are 7, 8, 9. A good needle must be 
 made of good steel, so that it will not break too easily, 
 and it must have a smooth eye that the thread may not 
 be cut. Milward and Sons' and Roberts's are both satis- 
 factory, and they can be purchased almost anywhere. 
 These are both English makes. 
 
 Pins. Every girl should have her own pins; select 
 those that are of medium size with sharp points. Dull 
 points make too large holes and will injure fine cloth. 
 
 The earliest pin used was a thorn or twig from a tree; 
 then wire pins were made, and now we have them in 
 endless variety. Dressmakers' pins come by the box 
 and may be bought in half-pound quantities; but the 
 same style may be obtained in papers, and one paper 
 should be sufficient for a pupil for at least one year. 
 
 Thread. Thread is a twisted strand of silk or wool, 
 flax or cotton. The linen and cotton thread are 
 numbered with figures; the silk thread is designated by 
 letters. The larger the figure, the finer the thread. 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 19 
 
 The numbers most commonly used are 60 and 70. All 
 the sizes from 40 to 90 are needed in the home, if one 
 is to do all kinds of work. 
 
 Certain makes have proved more satisfactory than 
 others. Two very good ones are Coats's and Clark's, 
 and, for the single-stitch machine, Brooks's glace. 
 Study a spool of Coats's thread, and you will see on the 
 ends of the spool these different things. 
 
 " J. and P. Coats " — which gives you the makers' 
 name; " best six cord " — which means made up of 
 six strands of thread; " 200 yards " — which is the 
 number on the spool; " 60 " — which is the size of the 
 thread, and, perhaps, the figure 12, which seems to 
 mean the same as 60. 
 
 Cloth. The process of making thread is called 
 spinning. The process of making cloth is called weav- 
 ing. The machine upon which cloth is made is called 
 a loom. This, at first, was very simple, and the cloth 
 was all made by hand. Now most of the weaving is 
 done by machinery. Cloth consists of two sets of 
 thread, one lengthwise, one crosswise of the goods. 
 The lengthwise threads are the ones stretched upon the 
 loom; these are the stronger and are known as the 
 warp threads, or the warp. The crosswise threads are 
 called the woof threads. 
 
 All good cloth is made from silk, wool, linen, or 
 cotton. 
 
 Cotton. When cotton was first used or who were the 
 people first to cultivate it, no one is able to tell. The 
 
20 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 earliest history speaks of an Indian plant " which pro- 
 duces wool of a finer and better quality than that of 
 sheep," and we know that in India, Persia, Egypt, and 
 China, cotton garments have been used for thousands of 
 years. 
 
 The plant seems to grow in the warm regions of both 
 continents. When Columbus landed in South America, 
 he found the shrub growing wild and the natives making 
 garments and fishing-nets from the fibers. The lint 
 was used for making beds, and in Mexico, in the six- 
 teenth century, garments, tapestries, and bedspreads 
 were made from the cotton. 
 
 In the United States, cotton was first discovered in 
 the section which is now the states of Louisiana and 
 Texas. As soon as the colonists arrived in Virginia 
 they began to plant the seeds of the cotton plant. For 
 a number of years cotton was raised as a garden plant 
 only, but by 1775 the Southern people began to plant it 
 in larger quantities, and soon it was beginning to take 
 the place of that imported. The trustees of the col- 
 onies did not encourage the manufacture of the home- 
 grown cotton for fear that it would interfere with the 
 English manufacturing, but when the Revolutionary 
 War cut off the imports of European manufacture, the 
 Americans began to make their own cotton goods. 
 
 The cotton, at first, was difficult to clean; the clean- 
 ing was all done by hand, and the result of a whole 
 day's work was only one pound of cotton. Often the 
 whole family worked at it in the evening. Later, 
 
SCR OF i'l: [COMICS 
 
 A HANDBOOK OF ElSlSi&TSftf SEWfi?<§ L 21 
 
 machinery came into use, and then the raising of cotton 
 for commercial purposes increased rapidly. 
 
 At first all the cotton was short staple, or upland cot- 
 ton. After the Revolutionary War, some sea-island 
 cotton was planted in the tide-water section of Georgia. 
 This cotton has a longer, stronger, more silky fiber and 
 can be spun into long, silky threads. It is used in 
 making fine cotton goods and in lace and thread. 
 
 Of all the kinds of cloth, cotton cloth is the most 
 common and the least expensive. Bed linen, so called, 
 window draperies, underwear, light-weight dresses, 
 and indeed many dresses of heavier weight, may be 
 made satisfactorily from cotton materials. 
 
 The best materials for underwear are long cloth of 
 average weight, cambric, fine muslin, and, for very fine 
 material, nainsook of good quality. Of all these, 
 bleached muslin is the least expensive and will wear 
 well, but it is harder to work upon, coarser in texture, 
 and less pleasing to wear. English long cloth of 
 medium cost, or a good grade of cambric, make the 
 most satisfactory garments. Batiste and nainsook are 
 too sheer to wear well and are often too sheer to look 
 well. 
 
 If nainsook is purchased, get that made from sea- 
 island cotton, if possible, as this is stronger and will 
 wear longer. The makes of cotton cloth vary in dif- 
 ferent sections of the country, and each person should 
 learn to know those in her own town or city. I have 
 found the Imperial and Princess makes of English long 
 
22 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 cloth to be perfectly satisfactory for fine use; the 
 Glasgow has given good satisfaction for common wear; 
 the Berkeley cambric has w r orn very well, and the 
 Imperial sea-island nainsook has been unusually good. 
 Do not buy a cheap nainsook or long cloth, for it will 
 be so much money thrown away. Instead, get the 
 best grade of muslin you can afford. For long cloth 
 to wear at all well, you must pay at least fifteen to 
 seventeen cents per yard and for the nainsook not less 
 than twenty-five cents. 
 
 Study your muslin until you can recognize a good, 
 soft grade. When it is at all stiff, rub between your 
 fingers and see if it is full of starch; if it is, the starch 
 will fall out. This grade of muslin you should avoid, 
 for there is no body to it. 
 
 Percale and domestic ginghams will prove very 
 satisfactory for everyday wash dresses. The percale 
 is really a firm, bleached muslin with a pattern stamped 
 upon it. This cloth comes from thirty-two to thirty- 
 six inches wide, costs from twelve and one half to 
 fifteen cents per yard and, because of its width, cuts to 
 good advantage. The price is higher than calico, but 
 the firmer weave and greater width make it less expen- 
 sive for many purposes. Avoid the dark blue, the so- 
 called indigo, with the white spots, if you wish good 
 wearing material. The white spots or stripes are made, 
 usually, by first dyeing the cloth blue and then bleach- 
 ing the design. By this method the strength of the 
 cloth is eaten up by the bleaching process. 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 23 
 
 Gingham is a material with the pattern woven into 
 the cloth. The domestic grades, those made in the 
 United States, come in widths varying from twenty- 
 seven to thirty-two inches. The grade that corre- 
 sponds to percale in price is usually twenty-seven inches 
 wide. All ginghams will cut to better advantage if 
 the material is shrunk before making into garments. 
 Wash in clear, warm water and dry. 
 
 Colored wash goods should be tested for fast 
 colors before buying. Take a sample home, wash 
 with soap and warm water, and hang in the sun to 
 dry. 
 
 Wool. W 7 ool comes from the sheep. When the 
 fleece is removed by a skillful person, it holds together 
 and looks like the skin of an animal. It is sent to the 
 factory thus and there sorted into the different grades 
 of wool. The best grade of wool comes from the 
 shoulders and sides of the sheep. The natural wool 
 contains a greasy matter which helps to preserve it. 
 This is washed out after the fleece is sorted. After 
 this thorough washing, the wool is made into woolens 
 and worsteds. 
 
 Woolens are made usually from short staple wool, 
 and the fibers are frequently crossed and mixed. The 
 worsteds are made from the long staple wool, and the 
 fibers usually lie parallel. The worsteds are dressier 
 fabrics, and the patterns seem clearly woven with 
 threads easily seen; serge is an example of this style. 
 Woolens have threads less easily distinguished, and the 
 
24 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 result is softer and more indistinct; flannel, tweed, and 
 eiderdown are woolens. 
 
 The simplest test for wool is that of burning. The 
 odor of the animal fiber is like that of hair, and the fibers 
 burn much more slowly than do the cotton ones. 
 More ash is always formed from the wool than from the 
 cotton. 
 
 Woolen material is used for baby's underwear and 
 where much warmth is desired. It is expensive and 
 must remain so, because of the cost of raising the sheep. 
 
 A little of the best quality of wool is raised in the 
 United States, but the greater part of it has to be im- 
 ported. Of this Australia sends us the larger portion. 
 
 Linen. Linen is made from the fibers of the flax 
 plant. It has been used for thousands of years, and 
 nothing has yet been found that will give the same 
 satisfaction for use where high luster and good wearing 
 qualities are desired. 
 
 Linen is used largely for table linen, handkerchiefs, 
 dress material, and toweling. It absorbs moisture more 
 readily and keeps white under constant washing more 
 easily than cotton, hence should be used for hand and 
 dish towels. In the rich damask weaves used in table 
 linen, its high luster makes it not only very beautiful, 
 but also causes it to shed the soil much more readily. 
 Its tendency to wrinkle makes it rather unsatisfactory 
 for common dresses, but it remains popular because 
 of its coolness and its fine wearing qualities. 
 
 Linen is always expensive and must remain so, be- 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 25 
 
 cause of the cost of raising it and preparing it for weav- 
 ing. A small amount of flax is raised in the United 
 States, but the greater part of it comes from abroad. 
 
 Mercerized cotton is often mixed with the linen, and 
 the result is sold for pure linen. Experts in linen tell 
 me that the adulteration is so skillfully done that the 
 ordinary person cannot detect it. We must depend 
 very largely upon the honesty of our dealers; however, 
 a few tests may be used with fair success : 
 
 Linen threads break unevenly with a pointed end. 
 
 Rub a linen fabric between your fingers, and the 
 surface will feel much smoother than a cotton surface. 
 
 Linen fibers lie parallel when untwisted; cotton 
 show many directions. 
 
 Burn linen threads, and they remain compact and 
 even; cotton will spread apart. 
 
 Linen washed, dried, immersed in concentrated sul- 
 phuric acid for two minutes, then washed again and 
 dried between filter paper, will remain practically the 
 same. Cotton will be dissolved. 
 
 Butcher's linen is a very coarse, heavy weave used 
 for aprons and dress skirts. Linen cambric is much 
 used for handkerchiefs. Damask is used for fine 
 towels, tablecloths, and napkins. 
 
PART II 
 OUTLINE OF WORK 
 
 FOURTH GRADE 
 
 Needle Case 
 
 Materials. German canvas six inches square; 
 D. M. C. embroidery cotton No. 3 and No. 5 in color; 
 crewel needle No. 3; white daisy cloth; Clark's 
 crochet cotton in white or a harmonious color. 
 
 Directions. Blanket stitch around the edge of the 
 canvas with the No. 3 D. M. C. embroidery cotton. 
 Inside the blanket stitch place a row of uneven basting 
 stitches; inside this a row of even basting stitches; 
 inside these stitches run a row of running stitches. 
 Cut the daisy cloth one fourth of an inch smaller than 
 the canvas ; blanket stitch around the edge of this with 
 the white crochet cotton. Place on the inner side of 
 the canvas and tie securely through the center with 
 the D. M. C. 
 
 Cross-stitch may be used for decoration in place of 
 the basting and running. 
 
 27 
 
28 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 Sewing Bag 
 
 Materials. Unbleached muslin twenty inches by 
 eight inches ; Coats's crochet cotton (color dark red) ; 
 No. 7 and No. 4 needle ; No. 60 white thread. 
 
 Directions. Fold one half a hem on long sides of 
 cloth and baste near edge with uneven basting, using 
 the crochet cotton : keep the., half-inch part of the 
 stitch next to you ; turn the goods and baste on the 
 other side, keeping the half-inch stitch next to you 
 and taking up the eighth of an inch space directly 
 above the eighth of an inch stitch. Fold a two-inch 
 hem at each end of the cloth ; baste in the same manner 
 as before ; half an inch above crease the cloth carefully 
 and baste again as before. Bring the sides evenly 
 together. Baste with white thread, then overcast 
 with the red cotton. When the seam is finished, re- 
 verse and overcast in the other direction, thus giving 
 a double overcasting stitch. Run two tapes or a 
 twisted cord, made from the crochet cotton, through 
 the casing of the hem ; let each cord be eighteen inches 
 to twenty inches in length. 
 
 Cord made from the Cotton. Take four times 
 as much cotton as the final length of the cord will 
 require; double and twist firmly together; bring the 
 ends together again and, holding them in one hand, let 
 them twist firmly together; tie. Run into the bag with 
 a bodkin or tape needle so called. Two girls can do 
 this together very easily. 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 29 
 
 Pinwheel 
 
 Materials. Cardboard; cretonne or brown linen; 
 colored crochet cotton; No. 7 sewing needle; No. 60 
 or 70 white thread. 
 
 Directions. Cut two circles of cardboard each two 
 and a half inches in diameter. Cut two circles of the 
 cloth each half an inch larger than the cardboard. 
 Using the white thread and the sewing needle, gather 
 the cloth one fourth of an inch from the edge; place 
 each piece of cardboard upon each piece of cloth and 
 draw the thread up as firmly as possible; with long 
 stitches from side to side fasten the cloth firmly in 
 place. Place the two pieces together, raw edges inside, 
 and sew with top-sewing stitches all around the edge. 
 If desired, the edge may be finished with double over- 
 casting as in the sewing bag. Baby ribbon may be 
 added as a further decoration. 
 
 Doll's Comfortable 
 
 Materials. Two pieces of fine cheesecloth eight 
 inches by ten inches; one piece of sheet wadding nine 
 by seven; white or colored crochet cotton; white 
 thread No. 60 or 70; sewing needle No. 7; crewel 
 needle No. 5 ; white darning cotton or Germantown. 
 
 Directions. Arrange half the wadding (which will 
 easily split) upon each piece of the cheesecloth, leaving 
 the edge of the cloth even upon each side. Baste in 
 position, using the uneven basting stitch. Turn the 
 
30 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 cheesecloth over to the edge of the wadding and baste 
 down; place the two raw edges (that is, the sides having 
 raw edges) together evenly, the cotton inside, and pin 
 in place; baste close to the edge with even basting 
 stitches. Thread the crewel needle with the crochet 
 cotton and blanket stitch around the entire edge, as in 
 the needle case. One inch from the side and one and 
 one half inches from the end place the needle through the 
 comfortable, taking up an eighth of an inch stitch; 
 cut off the thread, leaving the ends about one and one 
 half inches long; tie once. Fold darning cotton or 
 Germantown four times; cut into inch lengths; place 
 one length (fourfold) across the knot of the crochet 
 cotton; which then tie securely with a double knot; 
 trim off the ends evenly, leaving them about three 
 eighths of an inch long. Repeat every one and a half 
 inches. There should be four of these tackings, as 
 they are called, in a row and five rows. 
 
VBS 
 
 FIFTH GRADE 
 
 Doll's Sunbonnet 
 
 Materials. Gingham. Size twelve inches wide by 
 seven inches long; white thread No. 70; No. 8 needle; 
 twenty inches white tape, fourth of an inch wide. 
 
 Directions. Fold the goods lengthwise, edges to- 
 gether; from the folded edges measure across three and 
 
 Doll's Sunbonnet showing Squares cut out and One 
 Side Overcast. 
 
 one half inches; cut out a three and one half inch 
 square; overcast the cut edges; turn an eighth of an 
 inch seam and top sew these two edges together on each 
 31 
 
 12 -inches 
 
 3' 
 
 3| inches 
 
 3|inches 
 
32 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 side. Turn a fourth-inch hem around the entire bon- 
 net; hem fine; place two small plaits at the neck line 
 in the back and fasten with a tiny bow of baby ribbon 
 or of white tape. Sew strings made of the tape about 
 one inch back from the front and one inch up from the 
 bottom. 
 
 If a prettier bonnet is desired, sew a piece of narrow, 
 fine lace which has beading, along the front edge of the 
 bonnet and run baby ribbon through this. Then make 
 the strings and the bow of the same ribbon. A bonnet 
 large enough to fit the home doll may be made if 
 desired. 
 
 Laundry Bag 
 
 Materials. Gingham, chambray, or lawn, the 
 width of the material, if twenty-seven inches, or cut 
 to that width, and twenty-seven inches long; one 
 embroidery hoop, seven or eight inches in diameter; 
 one yard of ribbon one inch wide to match the material; 
 one skein D. M. C. No. 3; No. 70 thread; No. 8 
 needle. 
 
 Directions. Cut the goods to a thread; baste a 
 three-quarter-inch hem at each end and hem. Find 
 the middle of one of the selvage sides; bring the bottom 
 of the hem to this point and baste the edges together 
 (seam on the wrong side). Bring the bottom of the 
 other hem to this middle point and baste the other 
 edges together. (This allows the hems to remain out 
 so that the hoop may be run through.) 
 
 Baste the other side in the same way. Stitch by hand. 
 
JTffflF ^munu 
 
 A HANDBOOK OF El3MW^y SEWING 33 
 
 school. 
 
 Turn bag on right side and press out the corners. Find 
 the place where the hoop is joined together: notch on 
 both sides of this place; place the hoop in hot water, 
 and it will come apart; then run the hoop through 
 the hems and tie it together again with a thread or 
 string. Make a bow at each end of the ribbon. Sew 
 these two bows at the ends of the bag; arrange the 
 gathers evenly and sew a tassel to each corner of the 
 bag. 
 
 To make the Tassels. Cut the skein of D. M. C; 
 remove two long threads; cut the remainder into 
 fourths; fold the fourths evenly; thread one long 
 strand into a crewel needle and tie the middle of one 
 folded fourth with it: fold again evenly; bring the 
 needle up from below through the knot and put back 
 close to where it came out, leaving a loop half an inch 
 long. Bring the needle out three eighths of an inch 
 from the loop and wind the thread firmly around all 
 the threads six times; slip the needle under and up 
 through the middle of the tassel and draw firmly; cut. 
 
 Holder 
 
 Materials. Gingham or calico seven inches square. 
 Two squares. No. 8 needle. No. 70 white thread, 
 piece of narrow tape six inches long; white darning 
 cotton. 
 
 Directions. Ask the children to bring some old, 
 soft cloth from home and use this for filling. Take 
 three thicknesses, if thin, and cut to a six-inch square. 
 
34 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 Place half on each square of the gingham or calico and 
 baste the edges down to the filling, turning the opposite 
 sides first. 
 
 In one corner place the tape and baste to position. 
 
 Place the two pieces of gingham or calico together ; 
 baste firmly in place. 
 
 Top sew fine, hemming down the corner where the 
 tape comes. 
 
 Find the center and tie the darning cotton, using 
 four strands. Repeat halfway between the center and 
 each corner. 
 
 Doily 
 
 Materials. Natural colored linen six inches square; 
 Coats's crochet cotton in a soft brown shade; No. 5 
 crewel needle. 
 
 Directions. With a pencil mark a circle on the linen 
 three and a half inches in diameter; one eighth of an 
 inch inside mark a second circle lightly in pencil. 
 Outline the two circles in running stitch. Scallop stitch 
 over these with the brown cotton, being careful that the 
 needle goes in and comes out exactly on the line. 
 Fringe to this scalloped edge and trim the fringe to one 
 inch. 
 
 Pincushion Top 
 
 Materials. Scrim eight inches by six and one 
 half; crochet cotton or D. M. C. No. 8; colors, pale 
 blue and yellow; crewel needles No. 5; sewing needles 
 No. 8, 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 35 
 
 Directions. Turn a half-inch hem on all four sides 
 of the scrim. (Be sure to turn the opposite sides first.) 
 Baste with even basting stitches. On the right side 
 outline stitch the hem, being careful to keep on the edge 
 of the hem. Find the middle of the scrim, and mark 
 with a pencil. Measure out, making a rectangle half 
 an inch wide by one inch long, the longer side of the 
 rectangle parallel with the longer side of the scrim. 
 Half an inch out from the edge of the shorter side of the 
 rectangle bring the crewel needle threaded with the 
 cotton up from the wrong side, pass over one thread 
 and take a half-inch stitch on the wrong side of the 
 scrim, bring the needle through the scrim and take an 
 inch stitch on the right side, pass the needle under 
 half an inch on the wrong side, and bring again to the 
 right; pass over one thread and go back in the same 
 manner. Continue in this way until the rectangle is 
 covered with these long threads. Threading the 
 needle with the other color of embroider} 7 or crochet 
 cotton, bring it up at right angles with the long threads 
 and half an inch from the edge of them and take one 
 tiny stitch ; pass over half an inch on the wrong side, 
 bring the needle through to the right, and weave in and 
 out, over and under the long threads; then pass the 
 needle into the scrim, bring it out on the wrong side, 
 take a half-inch stitch, pass over two threads, and go 
 back in the same manner; continue until the entire 
 space has been woven over. Be careful in weaving 
 the second time to pass over the threads that you passed 
 
36 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 under the first time. Fasten with two small stitches 
 on the wrong side. Over the tiny stitches that you 
 made half an inch beyond the weaving, make three 
 rows of outline stitch, using the two colors of em- 
 broidery cotton. 
 
 Make a cushion to fit this cover, or bring a cushion 
 from home and make the cover to fit it. 
 
 Stocking Darning 
 
 Bring stockings from home. Place a darning-ball or 
 a piece of firm cardboard under the hole to be darned. 
 Match the darning cotton to the color of the stocking. 
 
 If the stocking is fine, use 
 one strand of the cotton; if 
 coarse, use two strands. On 
 a line with the center of the 
 hole, and half an inch from 
 its edge, place the needle in 
 the cloth and run with very 
 fine stitches to the edge of 
 the hole. Pass the needle 
 across the hole, under the raw 
 edge on the opposite side, and 
 make one fourth of an inch of fine running stitches. 
 Start back close to this row and repeat the same 
 thing, being careful that you pass over the raw edge 
 that you passed under before. Continue until half the 
 hole is covered and then run the fine stitches one 
 fourth of an inch beyond into the stocking. This 
 
 Stocking Darning. 
 
makes the darn firmer and less likely to pull out. Do 
 the other half in the same manner. When the warp 
 threads are all in, begin in the middle with the woof 
 threads. Use fine running stitches to the edge of the 
 hole as before. Then weave under and over as in the 
 cushion-top, keeping the stitches near enough to make 
 a firm, close weave. Fasten as with the warp threads 
 by running into the stocking one fourth of an inch. 
 
 Use firm brown paper if possible; if nothing else is 
 available, buy some from the grocer. 
 
 Begin in the upper, right-hand corner. 
 
 Down means toward the bottom of the paper. 
 
 Out means toward the left-hand side of the paper. 
 
 Up means from the bottom toward the top of the paper. 
 
 Make all measurements very carefully. 
 
 Yardsticks will be of great assistance if they can be 
 obtained. Be very careful when making the free- 
 hand curves. 
 
 Draft. Measure down on straight edge of paper 17 
 inches and mark 1 at top and 2 at bottom. 
 
 Directions for Drafting 
 
 Sewing Apron 
 
 Down from 1 measure 1 inch and mark 
 Out " " " 6 inches " 
 
 3 
 4 
 
 5 
 
38 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 Connect 4 and 8 with a straight line. 
 Down from 4 on line 4-8 mea sure 8J inches and mark 9 
 Up from 8 on line 4-8 " 6 " " " 10 
 Connect 5 and 1, 6 and 1, 7 and 1, 8 and 1, 10 and 
 1, by straight lines. Connect 3 and 4 by a down curve. 
 
 Draft of Sewing Apron. 
 
 Measure up on line 6-1 J inch and mark . . 11 
 " " " 7-1 2J inches " " . . 12 
 " " " 8-1 5 " " " . . 13 
 " " " 10-1 1 inch " " . . 14 
 Draw a curved line from 9 through 14, 13, 12, 11, to 5. 
 Cut on the curved line 3-4, then down through 4, 9, 14, 
 13, 12, 11, 5 to 2. 
 If a larger apron is desired, make the following 
 changes when drafting the pattern. 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 39 
 
 Lengthen the line 1-2 4 inches and mark . . . A 
 
 " " 4-8 4J " " " . . . B 
 Connect A and B with a straight line. 
 Lengthen lines 1-5, 1-6, and 1-7 to the line A-B. 
 Mark these lines ha, 6a, and 7a. 
 
 Measure up from ha J inch and mark ... C 
 
 " " Qa H inches " " . . . D 
 
 u u 7a4 j <c « « E 
 
 (( u (( g 2i << << << p 
 
 Draw a downward curve from 10 through F, E, D, C, 
 to A. 
 
 When drafting for a stout girl, measure out five 
 inches instead of six at the top of the draft and carry 
 the line 1-2 down one inch lower, as shown in the dotted 
 lines in the illustration. Cut on the dotted lines. 
 
 To Cut the Apron. Fold the goods lengthwise, 
 making the fold just wide enough to fit the widest part 
 of the pattern. Be sure that the warp threads are 
 perfectly straight. Pin the pattern with the straight 
 edge exactly on the fold and the top to the edge of 
 the goods. Pin firmly along the edges. Cut exactly 
 to the pattern. Leave the fold uncut. Remove the 
 pattern, open the cloth, and the apron is ready to 
 be made. 
 
 Materials. Three fourths of a yard of lawn, 
 dimity, or batiste. One and three fourths or two yards 
 of narrow lace. (The imitation Armenian is the most 
 satisfactory.) One skein of embroidery cotton, 
 
40 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 O. N. T. or D. M. C, No. 25, one strand. Number 70 
 white thread. Sewing needles, about Nos. 5 and 8. 
 
 Directions. Turn a very narrow hem, three six- 
 teenths of an inch, all around the apron. Baste with 
 even basting stitches. With the embroidery cotton, 
 featherstitch over this hem. (Be sure that this feather- 
 stitching is very fine, for it must take the place of the 
 usual hemming.) Top sew the lace around the finished 
 edge, holding the lace next to you and taking very fine, 
 close stitches. Cut a piece of cloth lengthwise, making 
 it two inches wide and two inches longer than the waist 
 measure taken loosely. Find the middle of the apron 
 at the top and mark with a pin; find the middle of the 
 band ; pin the middle of the apron to the middle of the 
 band, keeping the band on the right side of the apron. 
 Baste with even basting stitches. Stitch. Turn the 
 band over, crease a fourth of an inch fold on the edge, 
 and baste this down firmly on the wrong side just over 
 the stitching, and hem. Top sew the edges that 
 extend beyond the apron. A button and buttonhole 
 may be used to finish it, if the pupils are able to make 
 them well. 
 
SIXTH GRADE 
 
 Book Marker 
 
 Materials. Linen-colored chanibray or gingham; 
 red or brown ribbon; brown twist, red D. M. C. em- 
 broidery or red tambo cotton; No. 7 needle; No. 5 
 crewel needle; linen-colored thread. 
 
 Directions. Cut linen about three inches by six 
 inches. Fold in one eighth of an inch on all sides. 
 Fold the edges together lengthwise and baste with 
 even basting stitches. Top sew fine, using linen- 
 colored thread. One inch from the top cut a button- 
 hole across the marker, in the center, three fourths of an 
 inch long. Make a buttonhole, following the directions 
 given, using either the twist or the cotton. Half an 
 inch below cut another buttonhole parallel, and work 
 as before. One inch from the bottom cut another but- 
 tonhole and work in the same way. Half an inch above, 
 cut and make one more. Through these buttonholes 
 run twelve inches of half-inch ribbon the same color 
 that the buttonholes are worked in. 
 
 41 
 
42 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 Cooking Apron. Medium Size 
 
 Draft. Find waist measure and skirt length. 
 Mark upper, right-hand corner of paper .... 1 
 Out from 1 measure one third of waist measure and 
 
 mark 2 
 
 Down from 1 measure 2 inches and mark ... 3 
 Connect 2 and 3 with a down curved line. 
 
 Cooking Afron. 
 
 Down from 3 measure skirt length and mark . . 4 
 
 Out " 4 " 14 inches " " . . 5 
 
 " on line 4-5 measure 4 inches " " . . 6 
 
 " from 6 measure 3 inches and mark .... 7 
 
 " "7 " 2 " " " Q 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 43 
 
 Out from 8 measure 3 inches and mark .... 9 
 
 Connect 2 and 5 by a straight line. 
 
 Up from 5 on line 2-5 measure 4 inches and mark 10 
 
 Find one third of line 2-5, and add 5 inches to this 
 length. Measure down this length from 2 on 
 line 2-5 and mark 11 
 
 Connect 1 and 7 by a straight line. Do the same 
 with 1 and 8, 1 and 9, 1 and 5, 1 and 10. 
 
 Up from 7 on line 1-7 measure J inch and mark 12 
 
 8 " 
 
 " 1-8 
 
 " 2 inches " " 
 
 9 " 
 
 " 1-9 
 
 t( g3. (( a i( 
 
 5 
 
 " 1-5 
 
 (C 4 3 <( <c (( 
 
 10 " 
 
 " 1-10 
 
 IC f> (C it {{ 
 
 Draw a free-hand curve from 11 through 16, 15, 
 14, 13, 12, to 6. 
 
 Draft for the Bib. Mark upper, right-hand 
 
 corner 1 
 
 Down from 1 measure 21 J inches and mark ... 2 
 
 Out " 1 " 9 " * " . . . 3 
 
 " " 2 " 9 " " "... 4 
 
 Up from 2 on line 1-2 measure 3 inches and mark 5 
 
 " " " " " " " 6 " " " 6 
 
 " " " " " " " 9 " <f " 7 
 
 " " " " " " " 10| " " " 8 
 
 " " " " " " " 12 " " " 9 
 
 " " " " " " " 14 " <f " 10 
 
 " " " <c " " " 16 " " " 11 
 
 il (( (C 11 (( (( (( -I O (( (( a -jo 
 
44 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 Up from 2 on line 8-9 measure 20 inches and mark 13 
 
 14 
 15 
 16 
 17 
 18 
 19 
 20 
 21 
 22 
 23 
 24 
 25 
 26 
 27 
 28 
 
 Draw a curving line from 28 through 26, 24, 22, 
 21, 19, to 8. 
 
 Draw a second curving line from 28 through 27, 
 25, 23, 20, 18, 17, 16, 15, 14. Cut on the line 
 2-14, and then on the curving lines,, 8-28, 
 14-28. 
 
 If a longer bib is needed, lengthen at the bottom 
 from one to two inches. 
 
 Directions for Cutting the Aprons. Use per- 
 cale that is thirty-six inches wide and has a small 
 figure on a white ground. (The directions show you 
 how to cut two aprons at the same time.) Fold the 
 
 Out from 2 measure 4J 
 
 " " 5 
 
 ' 5i 
 
 " " 6 
 
 ' 7 
 
 " " 7 ' 
 " " 8 ' 
 
 ' 8 
 
 ' si 
 
 " " 9 ' 
 
 < 21 
 
 " " 9 ' 
 
 < 8| 
 
 
 f 4J 
 
 " " 11 
 
 ' 4} 
 
 " " 11 ' 
 
 4 8| 
 
 " " 12 
 
 ( 3J 
 
 
 ( 8 
 
 „ u 13 
 
 3 
 
 " " 13 4 
 
 ' 7 
 
 " " 1 
 
 ' 4 1 
 
 ^2 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 45 
 
 material lengthwise. Measure off sufficient for the 
 bibs. Fold the remainder crosswise (retaining the 
 lengthwise fold). Cut four pieces for the two bands, 
 two inches wide and two inches longer than the waist 
 measure taken loosely, lengthwise of the cloth along the 
 selvage edge. Pin the apron pattern upon the folded 
 goods, straight edge upon fold of goods. Cut upon the 
 curving portion as in the sewing apron. Pin the pattern 
 for the bib on the remaining portion, straight edge on 
 fold and cut. It will take two yards of this wide ma- 
 terial to make the small apron. If a pupil is larger, two 
 and three fourths yards will be required. 
 
 Directions for Making the Apron. Bind the 
 apron with bias binding, or finish with a fancy tape. 
 Place one band as in the sewing apron, but place the 
 other on the wrong side in a similar manner; baste 
 with even basting and stitch. The top of this will 
 be open and unfinished. Find the middle of the 
 band on the right side; pin the middle of the bib 
 at the bottom to the middle of the band, right sides 
 together; baste together and stitch. Turn in the 
 remaining raw edges one fourth of an inch, baste to- 
 gether and stitch. Finish the band with a button and 
 buttonhole or with loops and buttons. Fasten the 
 bib in the same way. If a buttonhole is desired, 
 strengthen the end of the bib with an extra thickness 
 of cloth carried back one and a half inches from the 
 end. See that the threads of the cloth match in 
 doing this, 
 
46 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 Cross-stitch Bag 
 
 Materials. Gingham, linen, pongee, scrim, or 
 crepe; one third yard for lining, one fourth yard for 
 top; D. M. C. No. 5, or D. M. C. six strand, No. 25; 
 
 :;hin ;;. .. 
 
 Win. 
 
 7%m 
 
 Cross Stitch Design 
 
 Diagram of Cross-stitch Bag. 
 
 three skeins of harmonizing color; crewel needles No. 4 
 or No. 5; No. 8 needle; No. 70 thread. 
 
 Directions. If the bag is to be made of plain ging- 
 ham and the design is to be worked on gingham having 
 an eighth-inch check, measure and cut a piece twenty 
 inches crosswise of the plain gingham and seven and one 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 47 
 
 half inches on the selvage. Make the checked gingham 
 the width the design requires and twenty inches long. 
 Baste the checked gingham upon the plain at such a 
 distance from top as to have the pattern come about 
 two inches from lower edges. Work out a design pre- 
 viously made in the drawing department. Cut the 
 lining exactly the same width and length as the outside; 
 from the remainder cut a piece three inches long by 
 five and a half inches wide; turn in the edges a fourth 
 of an inch ; place this evenly on one side of the lining 
 and fasten with firm couching stitches, using the D. 
 M. C; use three strands to couch over. For position 
 see diagram given. 
 
 Divide this piece into two pockets with the couching. 
 Join the lining and the outside with the machine 
 stitching, raw edges together, first the top and then 
 the sides. Cut from tag board or cardboard two circles 
 three and a half inches in diameter. (If cardboard is 
 used, four thicknesses will be required.) Cover each 
 piece of cardboard with the cloth, cutting the covering 
 one inch larger than the board. Place these circular 
 pieces together, raw edges inside, and baste. Gather 
 the bottom of the bag and top sew on to the circular 
 pieces on the inside of the bag. Make a half-inch 
 casing one inch from the top of the bag by running two 
 rows of fine combination stitch half an inch apart. 
 Make two cords from the D. M. C. and run them into 
 the casing. If D. M. C. No. 25 is used, take three 
 strands for cross-stitching, and six strands for cord. 
 
48 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 Work Apron 
 
 Materials. Chambray, gingham, or dark calico. 
 Bias binding No. 4 or No. 5 A simple Butterick or 
 Ladies Home Journal pattern having no sleeves, a 
 round neck, and shoulder and under-arm seams only. 
 
 Directions. Select the pattern and then buy the 
 amount of goods required. Cut by pattern, allowing 
 a two-inch seam. Make a French seam at all seams. 
 Finish neck and armhole with the bias binding or facing. 
 Make a one-inch hem up the back and a two-inch hem 
 at the bottom. If a more decorative apron is desired, 
 a simple embroidery stitch may be used on the hems. 
 Seed stitch, outline stitch, or chain stitch would be 
 satisfactory. If the top is thus finished, let the hem be 
 done by hand. 
 
 A still daintier apron may be made from white dimity 
 or a fine, delicate gingham or batiste. 
 
 Princess Slip 
 
 Materials. Ladies Home Journal pattern No. 
 8091 or any style that is simple and unfitted. Long 
 cloth of good grade, from two and one half yards to 
 three yards, according to the size of the girl. White 
 thread No. 70 and No. 90. Needles No. 8 and No. 9. 
 White D. M. C. or O. N. T. No. 25. Narrow lace edge 
 at neck and sleeves, either hand or machine made. 
 For flounce one and one third times the width of skirt, 
 — long cloth or embroidery. 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 49 
 
 Directions. Cut according to pattern. Finish 
 with French seams. Turn an eighth-inch hem at neck; 
 one-inch hems at back. Set in sleeve with French 
 seam, and finish with an eighth-inch hem. Divide 
 the flounce into fourths; use a separate thread to gather 
 each fourth and knot the thread at both ends. (Use 
 the coarser thread.) Place one row T of gathers an 
 eighth of an inch from the edge of the goods, the second 
 row an eighth of an inch below the first. Be careful 
 that the second row T of stitches is exactly under the first. 
 Draw each fourth up as close as possible and pull the 
 gathers gently until they are even and smooth. 
 
 For directions for placket, see under " Skirt." Carry 
 the placket nine inches below the normal waist line. 
 
 Divide the slip in fourths at the bottom. Bring the 
 edge of the flounce to the edge of the slip wrong sides 
 together. Pin at the divisions in fourths. Arrange 
 the gathers evenly and baste to slip with even basting 
 between the rows of gathers. Stitch. Place the lower 
 edge of the bias fold exactly over the lower row of 
 gathering; baste with even basting; baste the upper 
 side of bias fold down. Stitch both sides close to the 
 edge. 
 
 The edge of the flounce, if made of the goods, may 
 be just a plain hem with a narrow lace trimming, or it 
 may be finished with a simple decorative stitch such 
 as feather, chain, or seed stitch. Let the same stitch 
 be used at neck and sleeves. Finish the back with 
 buttons and buttonholes. 
 
50 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 One-piece Dress 
 
 Materials. Gingham or percale; preferably ging- 
 ham, because it is softer to work upon. Choose a very 
 simple pattern from a Butterick fashion book and give 
 individuality by the style of trimming. Provide 
 thread, needles, pins, buttons, as for the princess slip. 
 Use colored 0. N. T. or D. M. C. No. 5 or the six strand 
 No. 25 to harmonize with the material. 
 
 Directions. Cut according to directions on pattern. 
 Finish with French seams. If sleeves are set in, bind 
 with bias folds. Try on before sewing in sleeves or 
 turning hem. If made up without shrinking, allow 
 one to two inches for shrinking. Finish with buttons 
 and buttonholes like the 
 princess slip. If a round 
 neck is desired, face on right 
 side with a narrow fold of the 
 goods and finish with some 
 simple embroidery stitch. 
 
 Dusting Cap 
 
 Draft for Cap. Draw 
 a rectangle eight inches by 
 thirteen inches. Mark the 
 corners in order 1, 2, 3, 4. 
 Divide the long sides into 
 halves. Mark the point between 1 and 2, 5 and the 
 one between 3 and 4, 6. 
 
 Draft for Cap. 
 
A HANDBOOK OF EI^ENTARY SEWING 51 
 
 Draw a line diagonally from corner 4 to point 5. " 
 From 4 on this line 4-5 measure three inches and 
 mark 7. 
 
 Straight piece 
 
 Dusting Cap. 
 
 Draw a curved line from corner 1 to point 6, passing 
 through the diagonal 4-5 at 7. 
 
 Starting at 1, cut through the curving line to 7, from 
 7 through 6 down to 3, from 3 across to 2, from 2 back 
 to 1. Write on the long straight edge the words " Place 
 on lengthwise fold." 
 
 Materials for Cap. One piece of gingham or 
 crepe fourteen inches long by sixteen inches wide. One 
 piece of gingham or crepe twenty inches long by five 
 inches wide. WTiite or colored D. M. C. No. 5 or No. 8. 
 No. 8 needle, No. 5 crewel needle, No. 70 white thread. 
 
52 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 Directions. Fold the larger piece of gingham so 
 that it will be eight inches wide by fourteen inches long. 
 Place the long straight edge of the pattern on this fold; 
 pin firmly; cut to the pattern around the curving edge. 
 Leave the fold uncut. 
 
 Place two rows of gathers along the curving edge and 
 down the straight sides. On the lower edge turn a 
 half-inch hem and hem fine. On the ends and down 
 one long side of the piece that is twenty inches long, 
 place a half-inch hem. Featherstitch with the em- 
 broidery cotton. Join the crown and this with a French 
 seam, being careful that the featherstitching is on the 
 outside of the cap and that the gathers are evenly 
 distributed. Make an eyelet in the middle of the hem 
 at the back of the cap; run the tape in from the seams 
 on the sides, sewing it on firmly, and tie it at the eyelet. 
 
SCHC^L OF I'lEE ECONOMICS 
 
 STATE NORMAL SCHOOL 
 
 SEVENTH AND EIGHTH GRADES 
 
 In the seventh and eighth grades the pupils may make 
 a full set of underwear for themselves and finish with a 
 simple wash dress. Every article made should have 
 a touch of hand decoration, and each one should be 
 a little more difficult than the preceding one. The 
 patterns for the dress and for the combination suit may 
 be selected according to the prevailing style. The 
 skirt may be drafted, and the nightdress decoration 
 should be easily worked on the cloth itself. Make a 
 plain kimono style. Buy twice the length of cloth, 
 measuring from the neck, at the shoulder, to the floor, 
 allowing two inches extra for hem and shrinkage. 
 
 53 
 
SUPPLEMENTARY WORK 
 
 Small Size Skirt for Doll 
 
 Materials. Two pieces of flannel or outing flannel 
 nine inches long by seven and one half inches wide. 
 White sewing silk, pink or white twist, white thread 
 No. 60, No. 8 needle, two pieces of tape six inches long 
 by one fourth of an inch wide. 
 
 Directions. Sew the two breadths of flannel to- 
 gether with combination stitch, one edge overlapping 
 the other by an eighth of an inch. Make seam a little 
 less than one fourth of an inch deep. Turn longer 
 edge over flat and cross or catch stitch with fine, close 
 stitch. 
 
 Cut down the middle of one breadth two and one half 
 inches. From the right-hand side of the skirt turn over 
 a half-inch hem. From the left-hand side turn over an 
 eighth-inch hem. Catch stitch with fine, close stitch. 
 
 At the bottom of this placket fold the half-inch 
 hem over flat and catch stitch or place two rows of fine 
 stitching across. 
 
 Turn an inch hem at bottom; baste and catch stitch. 
 
 One fourth of an inch from top, double gather fine, 
 each half by itself. Fold band lengthwise and place 
 54 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 55 
 
 center to the center of the skirt at the top. Arrange 
 the gathers evenly and baste. Stitch just below gather- 
 ing thread. Fold over one fourth of an inch of the 
 band, then turn down over the gathers and baste. 
 Hem fine. 
 
 Insert the tape one fourth of an inch into the ends of 
 the band and hem down on both sides. Finish the 
 ends of tape with a fourth-inch hem. 
 
 Around the upper edge of the hem, place a row of 
 featherstitching worked in twist. 
 
 Lawn Apron. Doll's Size 
 
 Materials. White lawn or muslin five inches long by 
 seven inches wide; white thread No. 70; No. 9 needle. 
 
 Directions. Turn an eighth-inch hem on sides and 
 a half-inch hem on bottom of apron; hem. 
 
 Place a row of fine running stitches one eighth inch 
 from top of cloth; then one eighth inch below. Mark 
 the middle of top with a cross stitch. 
 
 Straighten the gathers carefully by gently pulling 
 them while on the needle or by pushing them along the 
 thread and under the thumb and finger. 
 
 Cut a band one and one half inches wide and seven 
 inches long. Fold evenly and pin the middle of the 
 band to the middle of the gathers on the right side of the 
 apron. 
 
 Carry the gathers to within two inches of the end of 
 the band; baste with even basting and stitch on the 
 gathers. 
 
56 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 Fold over and baste down over the stitching, turning 
 in the raw edge one fourth inch. Hem across the apron 
 and top sew the ends. 
 
 This apron may be trimmed with lace or it may be 
 hemstitched, as the pupil may desire. 
 
 Magazine Cover 
 
 Materials. Brown linen, half-inch binding ribbon, 
 brown thread, No. 8 needle. 
 
 Directions. Cut the size desired; draw threads 
 until even. Miter the corners; making the hem about 
 two inches wide. Find the center of the folded sides 
 and measure out, on the edge of the hem, one half to one 
 inch from this center (according to the thickness of the 
 
 magazine). Cut to 
 the center line, leav- 
 ing one fourth inch 
 from the folded edge 
 uncut. Bind with 
 the ribbon. 
 
 Decorate with a 
 stenciled design or 
 with a bit of simple 
 
 Inside of Magazine Cover. embroidery. 
 
 Laundry Bag 
 
 Materials. Fine checked gingham (blue and 
 white) thirty inches long and eleven or twelve inches 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 57 
 
 wide. No. 70 white thread. Peri Lusta embroidery 
 cotton. Size D. Color, shade 311. 
 
 Directions. Overcast long sides. Fold the ends 
 over two and three fourths inches. Stitch these over- 
 cast edges together to within three fourths inch of 
 bottom of folded end; turn this seam under and finish 
 with a two and one half inch hem. One half inch above 
 edge of hem place a row of fine running stitches. 
 
 Laundry Bag. 
 
 About six inches down from the hem work a cross- 
 stitch design, using the Peri Lusta cotton. (Allow 
 each child to work from her own original design, placing 
 this design on one or both sides of the bag.) 
 
 Bring the sides together and baste from hem to fold 
 of cloth: stitch, making a fourth inch seam. 
 
58 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 Run double cords or ribbons through the half-inch 
 openings in the hem. 
 
 Rubber Bag 
 
 Materials. Half a yard of chambray, gingham, or 
 linen. 
 
 Directions. Cut a strip of cloth fifteen inches by 
 twelve and one half inches, also cut from the same 
 material two circles, each having a diameter of four 
 inches. 
 
 Upon the two twelve and one half inch ends of the 
 strip make a fourth-inch fold, both folds turning upon 
 
 Rubber Bag showing Featherstttching with Needle 
 
 in POSITION. 
 
 the wrong side of the cloth. Turn again, forming an 
 inch hem. Baste. Hem one of the sides thus folded. 
 Featherstitch the other upon the right side of the 
 material. Fold the featherstitched side of the hem 
 over the other and pin in place at both ends, making an 
 inch lap. Take one of the circles and arrange at one 
 end of bag in such a way that the seam will come inside 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENT A&Y §Svrt8fc 59 
 
 the bag. Pin carefully and baste a fourth-inch seam; 
 backstitch seam; trim and overcast. Arrange the 
 second circle at the other end of bag, and baste and sew 
 in the same way. 
 
 Finish ends of bag by featherstitching the circles on 
 the right side a fourth of an inch from circumference. 
 If desired, the word " Rubbers " may be stamped and 
 outlined upon the upper part of bag. If lettering is 
 to be done, it must be stamped before bag is made. 
 
 Fasten bag with three hooks and eyes placed at 
 intervals of three inches. The hooks should be placed 
 on the under and further edge of featherstitched hem 
 and sewed on by means of buttonhole stitches worked 
 around the wider base of the hook, then securely 
 fastened either at front end of hook, or under the 
 " hump/' by means of four straight stitches. The 
 straight metal eyes may be used and placed at corre- 
 sponding intervals on the upper side of under hem. 
 
 For featherstitching, D. M. C. embroidery cotton 
 (No. 20) may be used. 
 
 Sewing Case 
 
 Materials. Outing flannel or wool flannel eight 
 and one half inches by five and one half inches, blue 
 outing flannel or ribbon five inches by twelve inches, 
 two small pieces of flannel two inches by three inches, 
 colored crochet cotton or D. M. C, blue and yellow or 
 white ; crewel needles; three fourths yard of half -inch 
 ribbon. 
 
60 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 Directions. Turn a fourth-inch fold around the 
 flannel or white daisy cloth; catch stitch this with the 
 crochet cotton. Measure up from one end four inches, 
 and run in three squares of darning in contrasting color. 
 Fold back two inches at the same end and baste; top 
 sew the ends, catch stitch through the center to make 
 two small pockets; blanket stitch around three sides 
 of the small pieces; arrange them evenly half an inch 
 from the other end and blanket stitch them firmly in 
 place. If ribbon is used, arrange case evenly on the 
 ribbon and pin in position; turn half-inch hems at the 
 ends of ribbon and catch stitch; place this on the 
 narrow ribbon evenly and catch stitch together. If 
 the blue daisy cloth is used, blanket stitch around the 
 edge, then fasten to the inner piece and place the whole 
 upon the narrow ribbon (which may be blue or white) 
 and fasten as in the earlier case. 
 
 Sewing Apron 
 
 Materials. One and one half yards of lawn, dimity, 
 or organdie; wash embroidery silk or embroidery cotton 
 (D. M. C. No. 20, or Peri Lusta E. fine). No. 70 white 
 thread. 
 
 Directions. Cut apron according to pattern given 
 in illustration. Cut band two inches wide and two 
 inches longer than waist measure. If strings are de- 
 sired, cut band width of apron and cut the strings 
 twenty-four inches long by three and one half wide. 
 
 Gather a ruffle from middle to ends; place first row 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 61 
 
 one eighth of an inch from top and the second one eighth 
 of an inch below. Fit ruffle to bottom of front gore ; 
 baste with even basting between the rows of gathers, 
 then sew with combination stitch below the basting. 
 Flace this seam on the right side. Turn top of pocket 
 forming an eighth of an inch hem: baste and feather- 
 stitch. Turn one eighth on the bottom, baste evenly 
 over the top of the ruffle, and featherstitch. Find 
 middle of pocket, crease evenly, and featherstitch to 
 apron. 
 
 Pattern foe Apeon, one eighth size. 
 
 Baste the side gores to the front, arranging for French 
 seams; finish with eighth-inch seams, using the com- 
 bination stitch. 
 
 Turn an eighth-inch hem around sides and bottom 
 
62 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 of apron, baste with even basting; featherstitch. Place 
 middle of band to middle of apron on the right side; 
 baste to apron, making a fourth-inch seam; stitch. 
 
 Towel 
 
 Materials. Huckaback linen or cotton. D. M. C. 
 No. 12-16. 
 
 Directions. Even ends of goods by a thread. 
 Prepare a one and one half inch hem and draw four 
 threads. 
 
 Hemstitch. 
 
 Two inches above the hem embroider the monogram 
 or initials. 
 
 To Embroider the Initials. Select a simple style of 
 letter and transfer to the towel by tracing over transfer 
 paper. (This method is the simplest and, where only a 
 very little is to be done, may be used satisfactorily.) 
 Pad the letter by rilling the space with rows of running 
 stitches done with the four-fold darning cotton. Chain 
 stitch may be used, but the result is less even. 
 
 The embroidery stitch used is the simplest form of 
 satin stitch. Where the initial runs parallel with the 
 threads of the cloth, make over and over stitches close 
 together. Let the needle enter the cloth exactly at 
 one edge of the pattern and come out exactly at the 
 other. You must have a perfectly even edge if the 
 result is to be good. As the pattern curves, slant the 
 stitches, being careful that the stitches are close together 
 so that no padding shows. 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 63 
 
 Towel with Swedish Weaving 
 
 Materials. One yard or three fourths of a yard of 
 linen toweling, huck preferred. Two or more skeins 
 of No. 8, D. M. C. or O. N. T. to correspond in number. 
 No. 50 white thread. No. 5 crewel needles and No. 8 
 sewing needles. 
 
 Directions. Measure in three and one fourth 
 inches at each end and draw threads until you have 
 about one inch of space drawn. Turn in one fourth of 
 an inch at the edge, bring this to the edge of the drawn 
 space, and baste with even basting. Hemstitch, taking 
 up about five threads each time. Use the No. 50 
 thread for this work. With the embroidery cotton, 
 begin and weave in and out through the drawn space, 
 taking up the same number of threads that were used 
 in hemstitching and passing over the same number. 
 The illustration (see Frontispiece) gives one simple 
 pattern easily worked out. If desired, one end of the 
 towel may be finished with plain hemstitching and the 
 other with the weaving. 
 
 Damask Hemming 
 
 Materials. White linen six or six and one half 
 inches square. No. 9 needle. No. 70 white thread. 
 
 Directions. Draw threads in the linen, making as 
 large a square as possible. On opposite sides turn and 
 baste an eighth-inch hem. Holding the wrong side 
 toward you, fold and crease the cloth back, so as to 
 
64 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 make it even with the first fold of the hem. Top sew 
 very fine. Turn hems on two remaining sides, baste, 
 top sew ends, and then sides as before. Finish with 
 lace, — torchon or any variety that is suitable to the 
 linen; follow the directions given for sewing on of lace. 
 
 Doily 
 
 Materials. Heavy white linen. No. 7 needle. 
 Embroidery cotton No. 25, 6 strand, white. 
 
 Directions. With a spool, mark simple scallops 
 around the linen, making it the size desired. Pad 
 slightly with long outline stitches, using white darning 
 cotton. Blanket stitch over these stitches, but keep 
 the stitches close together and the edges perfectly even. 
 When finished, trim the cloth to the edge of the em- 
 broidery and then buttonhole around the entire edge with 
 ordinary cotton thread. This buttonholing will keep 
 the linen from fraying and give a smoother edge. 
 
 Corset Cover 
 
 Materials. One yard of cambric, dimity, or long 
 cloth. Two and three fourths yards of lace. One and 
 three fourths yards of beading. D. M. C. or O. N. T. 
 No. 25, single strand, white. No. 70 white thread. 
 Nos. 8 and 9 needles. 
 
 Directions. Select a pattern having shoulder and 
 under-arm seams. Make flat fell seams. Turn an 
 eight-inch hem around the top. Turn one-inch hems 
 
seirioF 
 
 : ECONOMICS 
 
 STATE NORMAL 
 
 L SCHOOL 
 
 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 65 
 
 down the front. Face armholes with fourth-inch fac- 
 ings. Gather the bottom from about two inches in 
 front of the under-arm seam to front hem, using tw T o 
 rows of gathers, the first one eighth of an inch from the 
 bottom, the second one eighth of an inch above the 
 first. Finish the bottom with a band three fourths of 
 an inch wide when finished. (This band should be torn 
 two inches wide and two inches longer than the waist 
 measure taken loosely.) Featherstitch the top and the 
 front hems with the embroidery cotton. Finish with 
 the lace and beading, and run lingerie tape into the 
 beading, or crochet a tiny cord and run this through. 
 
 If preferred, seed stitch or outline stitch may be sub- 
 stituted for the featherstitching. 
 
 Materials. One and one half yards of fine cheese- 
 cloth, silkolene, or batiste; wash embroidery silk to 
 match material. No. 70 thread. One half yard nar- 
 row ribbon to match goods. 
 
 Directions. Even ends by a thread. Fold one 
 selvage edge together evenly. Baste; find the middle 
 of this seam, measure out from the center along the 
 seam one and one half inches. From this point sew to 
 edge with the combination stitch, making an eighth- 
 inch seam. Bind the open part with the ribbon and 
 featherstitch along the edge of the ribbon. If wished, 
 more ribbon may be used and a rosette or bow placed 
 at one side or in the middle. 
 
 Waist Protector 
 
66 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 Turn a fourth-inch hem down the open side and a 
 one-inch hem at the bottom. Baste with even basting 
 and featherstitch along the edge of the hem. Use 
 either single or double featherstitching. 
 
 Table Cover or Table Runner 
 
 Materials. Linen or gingham. One yard or one 
 and one fourth yards. Linen-colored thread. 
 
 Directions. If square cover is desired, use one yard 
 of thirty-six inch linen (natural color) or a square of the 
 narrower kind. Finish with a two-inch hem, making 
 mitered corners. 
 
 Place a stenciled design at the corner inside the hem, 
 working out the design as part of the regular art work. 
 
 To make a runner, use one and one fourth yards of 
 linen or linen-colored gingham ; finish with one and one 
 half inch hems on the sides and a three-inch hem at the 
 bottom; miter the corners as before. Place stenciled 
 design above the three-inch hems. 
 
 If desired, both of these covers may be hemstitched. 
 
 Kimono 
 
 Materials. Japanese crepe or ripplette. Simple, 
 narrow lace not over one inch in width. Embroidery 
 cotton to harmonize with the materials. A simple 
 pattern for a short kimono. White thread No. 70. 
 Sewing needles No. 8. Crewel needle No. 6. 
 
 Directions. Buy the pattern first. Buy the 
 amount of material required by the pattern, and cut care- 
 
SCn OF "%l ECONDIIK 
 
 STATE NORMAL SCHOOL 
 
 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 67 
 
 fully according to directions. Finish with French seams. 
 Turn an eighth-inch hem around the kimono; baste with 
 even basting stitches; featherstitch or chain stitch with 
 the embroidery cotton. Top sew the lace on, giving 
 just a little fullness where needed. Fasten with rosettes 
 of the material. Adapt the weight of the lace to the 
 material used; a much heavier variety will be needed 
 for the crepe than for the ripplette. German Valen- 
 ciennes will prove satisfactory for the ripplette, but a 
 light-weight Cluny will be better for the heavier crepe. 
 
 Fancy Apron 
 
 Pattern for Apron. Enlarge the one given eight 
 times. 
 
 Materials. Use fine lawn or nainsook. One yard 
 of material is required. Three and one half yards of 
 lace; one and one half yards of insertion; No. 9 needle; 
 No. 90 thread. 
 
 Directions. Turn a very narrow hem on the sides 
 and bottom of each gore of the apron. Hem fine. 
 Put the gores together with the insertion, basting care- 
 fully, and then top sewing very fine. Carry the inser- 
 tion around the top of the center gore, for this gives the 
 bib of the apron. Cut two bands, each eight inches 
 long and one and one half inches wide. Cut the strings 
 three inches wide and twenty-four inches long. Hem 
 the long sides and one end. Gather the other end and 
 sew neatly into the ends of the bands. Sew the bands 
 on to the side gores in the usual way, top sewing the 
 
68 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 Fancy Apron, one-eighth size. 
 
 ends to the 
 insertion and 
 top sewing 
 the portion 
 that extends 
 beyond the 
 gores. Top 
 sew the lace 
 around the 
 entire apron, 
 following the 
 general direc- 
 tions for sew- 
 ing on lace. 
 Place lace on 
 the ends of 
 the strings 
 only. 
 
 Underskirt 
 
 Take the waist and skirt measure of each girl and add 
 five inches to the skirt length. 
 
 Pattern of Skirt. Place paper on desk. Make 
 measurements out and down from upper corner of paper. 
 
 Directions. 
 
 Front gore. 
 
 Out from corner measure 1-6 of waist measure and 
 
 mark A 
 
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 69 
 
 Down from corner on outer edge of paper measure 
 
 \ inch and mark . B 
 
 Down from B, measure skirt length plus 5 inches 
 
 and mark C 
 
 Out from C, measure 12 inches and mark . . . D 
 
 Connect A and D with a straight line. 
 
 Pattern foe Front and Side Gore of Skirt. 
 
 Down from A on this straight line measure skirt 
 length plus 5 inches and mark E 
 
 Connect A and B with a free-hand curve. 
 
 Connect C and E with a free-hand curve. 
 
 Cut on curve A and B. Straight line A and E and 
 curve E and C« 
 
70 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 Mark straight edge of length of paper with these 
 words: " Place on lengthwise fold of cloth." 
 Mark " half front gore." 
 Side gore. 
 
 Measure out from corner \ waist measure and mark 
 Measure down from corner \ of an inch and mark 
 Measure down from B skirt length plus 5 inches and 
 
 mark 
 
 Measure out from C 15 inches and mark . . . 
 Connect A and D with a straight line. 
 Measure from A down this straight line skirt length 
 
 plus 5 inches and mark 
 
 Connect C and E with a free-hand curve. 
 Connect A and B with a free-hand curve. 
 Cut on curves and line A-D. Notch gored side 
 
 twice and mark " side gore." Notch straight 
 
 edge once. 
 
 Back Breadth. Draft as you did the side breadth 
 but take one third of waist measure at top and eighteen 
 inches at the bottom. 
 
 Materials for Skirt. Long cloth, cambric, or 
 muslin; three lengths should be sufficient, if you add 
 to each the extra five inches. The flounce may be of 
 the cloth or of edging. Allow one third more than the 
 width of the skirt. No. 70 white thread; No. 8 needles. 
 
 If desired make the skirt of flannel, or flannelette, or 
 outing flannel. In this case buy more material, as the 
 outing flannel is not so wide. 
 
 A 
 B 
 
 C 
 D 
 
SCHCLOFtlKECONBiCS 
 
 A HANDBOOK OI«mm^N1 r i^^ c Si^^G 71 
 
 Note. If made of flannel, finish the seams with a 
 flat fell and simply featherstitch around the edge of the 
 hem. Make the placket and also the band of long cloth. 
 
 Directions for Cutting the Underskirt. Fold 
 one piece lengthwise. On this fold place the straight 
 edge of the front gore. Pin securely in place and cut, 
 leaving the fold untouched. 
 
 On the straight selvage edge, place the straight side 
 of the side gore. Pin in place and cut. Turn upside 
 down and fit in the other side. Cut. Arrange the back 
 breadths in the same way and pin and cut. Lay the 
 entire pattern on and try it before cutting any, so as to 
 use the cloth to the best advantage. 
 
 Directions for Making. Finish with French 
 seams. Make a continuous placket. Finish the top 
 with a band one inch wide when made. Place a button 
 and buttonhole in the ends. Turn an inch and one 
 half hem. For the flounce see directions for princess 
 slip. 
 
 To Make the Placket. Leave nine inches at the 
 top of the back seam unfinished. Cut a lengthwise 
 strip of cloth eighteen inches long by two and one half 
 inches wide. Beginning at the top, on the right side, 
 place the placket strip against the skirt, edge to edge, 
 and baste, one eighth inch from the edge, with even 
 basting stitches; when at the bottom of the opening, 
 turn and baste up the other side. Stitch just below the 
 basting. Turn one fourth inch on the raw edge; 
 crease; fold over the first stitching and pin in place. 
 
72 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 
 
 Baste. Hem down the left-hand side and half an inch 
 up the right-hand side. Crease this side firmly. 
 Remove the basting. Cut out the under portion to 
 within a fourth of an inch of the crease. Turn the 
 remaining portion of the cloth to the wrong side, make 
 the edge even with the seam, so that none shows on the 
 right side, baste and sew like any hem. At the 
 bottom of the hem, place two rows of stitching an 
 eighth of an inch apart, just the width of the hem. 
 This strengthens the placket at the bottom. 
 
 THE END 
 
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