iiililltmsilftiiMlfHitlttlli GIFT OF SEELEY W. MUDD and GEORGE I. COCHRAN MEYER ELSASSER DR. JOHN R. HAYNES WILLIAM L. HONNOLD JAMES R. MARTIN MRS. JOSEPH F. SARTORI to the UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SOUTHERN BRANCH JOHN FISKE OF THE STOEY OF A CAMPAIGN KABYLIA, AND OTHER TAT/RS. ' I pulled up to look at this charming residence." Campaign in Kabytia.} [Page 31. THE STOEY OF A CAMPAIGN IN KABYLIA, ftolb hg a (fffcassntr b'^frupu. AND OTHEE TALES. BY MM. ERCKMANN-CHATRIAlSr, .Authors o/ " Waterloo," "TheAlsacian Schoolmaster," " Citizen Bonaparte, "Confessions of a Clarionet Player," &o, t Ac, WARD, LOCK AND CO. LONDON: WARWICK HOUSE, SALISBURY SQUARE, E.Q NEW YORK: BOND STREET. 86045 c\ CO 07 THE STORY OF A CAMPAIGN IN KABYL1A, I. 'ISTEN to me (said iny friend Goguel to me) ; you are a peaceable man ; you are fond of cattle, bees, and everything be- longing to country life. Nothing can be more natural ; from father to son your family have always been ploughing, and sowing, and reaping. But you must not suppose that all men are just like you, and that you alone are fulfilling the decrees of Heaven. If there wajS to be nothing but peace in the world, God would never have made hawks to pounce down upon your poultry, wolves to devour your flocks, and pikes to swallow carp. P-ott my part, I confess to feeling a far greater satis- faction when I am bestriding a good horse, with a sword hanging at my belt and a carbine slung to my 10 The Story of a Campaign in Kdbylia, side, than when I used to be seated on a cart carrying vegetables to market. Well, so it is ; every man to his trade. The happiest day of my life was on the 30th of March, 1871, when Grosse, an old trumpeter in the First Chasseurs d'Afrique at Blidah, sounded a call to the quartermasters* of all the squadrons ; and, entering the ward- room, I saw Adjutant Pigace smiling and twisting his moustaches. I felt in a moment that something pleasant was going to happen, and I was not mistaken, for the moment our comrades were assembled, the adjutant cried " The order of the day ! What number ? What ! no one knows ? Oh, come ! we'll settle that by-and-by. Promotions : the colonel in command of the First Regi- ment of Chasseurs d'Afrique appoints Alban Montezunia Goguel quartermaster." He had scarcely ceased speaking when I felt myself quite another man. I, Goguel, appointed, during the rest of the war with Prussia, quartermaster in the Chasseurs d'Afrique, at the end of only eight months' service ! You would never be able to understand the extent of my gladness. I drew myself up, with my shoulders back, and ray two thumbs in my trousers' pockets, spreading them, out wide, and shouting, " Vive la France !" The other fellows laughed ; and the adjutant, closing his book, said to me with a smile "Aha, Goguel! there you are now with your foot in the stirrup ; the path of honour lies before you." "You may be sure I invited my comrades te tako * MarecJiaux des logis. An exact equivalent docs not exist iu the English army. Tr. 'Every man to his trade." A Campaign in KabyHn.} [f'agt 10. Told by a Chasseur tfAfrique. 11 absinthe with me ; and so we marched off to the canteen arm-in-arm. Till five o'clock we did nothing but drink and laugh, and see the best side of everything. But at five G-rosse sounded the call again. We went out, and in front of the quarters, Quartermaster Goguel is named to join the detachment at Tizi-Ouzou with foui chasseurs on foot. Tizi-Ouzou is in the Kabyle country, about thirty- five leagues from Blidah. We have a fort in that place foi the protection of the European villages. A few of oui men had died down there, from sickness or other causes, and four of our chasseurs were ordered there to replace those men and to mount their horses. That was right enough, of course, but it seemed to me very hard to make my men carry their cloaks and their baggage for thirty-five leagues under the burning sun of Africa. I have always been of opinion that the soldier ought to be taken care of as much as possible and I spent the rest of the day plaguing the commis saries to let us have old Lubin's one-horse car to carrj my chasseurs a business this old fellow had carried on for fifteen years past. At last my request wan acceded to. Next morning, before daybreak, having saddled mj horse and seen that my men were fully equipped, I gavt the word to march. But first I went to shake hands with my friend Jaquet, an attorney at Blidah. My horse was pawing the ground at the door. We drank a glass of kirsch. wasser that he had had from home ; then, after a hearty shake, I vaulted into my saddle, and rejoined my little detachment at a gallop. The old Jews' street was still silent and empty ; a 12 The Story of a Campaign in Kafylia, few women were sweeping the pavement, and were turning round to see the quartermaster darting past at full speed, with his sword jingling against his boot, and his white cap-cover floating over his shoulders. Very soon after leaving the Algiers Gate I overtook the cart, which was moving slowly along with my four chasseurs smoking their pipes in the early morning, and talking of anything that came into their heads. A little further on we fell into the Dalmatie road, a military road along the foot of the Atlas mountains, which was to lead us direct to Arba, the end of our first day's march. Never shall I forget the calm pleasure of our start, at that early hour when the air is still cool under the shadow of the mighty Atlas. The quails were calling and answering one another in the midst of the corn : these birds are innumerable in Algeria. At our right rose the Atlas mountains, with copses of mastic-trees covering their feet, with golden furze-bushes and oleander-trees ; from our left spread out the plain of Metidja, covered with rich crops, and traversed by a thousand little rills flowing from the neighbouringpasses. As the sun rose in the sky, the turtle-doves, the- nightingales, and other native birds raised their voices in the sycamores, and we were better able to distinguish through the shadow at the foot of the Nador the barracks of the Zouaves, whither I had so frequently accompanied my comrades, Rimbaud and Lauriston ; farther on, the great pyramidal mound of stones called the Queen's Tomb, and at the furthest horizon the high mountain of the Zachar. The prospect was of immense extent ; no one without leeingit could form any idea of the wealth of this country. Told ly a Chasseur d'Afnque. 13 If railroads liad been made in Algeria thirty yeara ago, villages would have been built by thousands along their lines, as they tell us they are in America ; and then we should have a richer France, and more beautiful than the old. But we want to see the villages first, before we lay down the rails, or make even common roads ; we bestow whole regions upon people who grow nothing, and who are opposed to the settlement of real colonists upon this promised land ; and, to crown all, we have set up those Arab bureaux. Perhaps you don't know what an Arab bureau is ; I will tell you ; it will not take me long. In the first place, Algeria is divided into three great provinces: Algiers in the centre; Oran, west; and Constantine, east. Each of these provinces is subdivided ; and these smaller divisions are administered, some by a civil government, by prefects, as in France, others are under military government by Arab bureaux. In these provinces the Arab bureaux possess full powers. They impose taxes ; they administer justice ; they superintend public education ; they even claim, authority in matters of religion. So it happens that the post of head of an Arab bureau, no matter how small it may be, is a capital berth, especially as regards the collection of taxes. A mere sub-lieutenant, over head and ears in debt, and ruined by gambling, luxury, and evil habits, when he has the good fortune to be set over some Arab bureau, pays off his debts in a very short time, buys an estate, rides blood horses, walks upon lion-skins and panther- skins ; in fact, lives in the style of a pacha and all upon a sub-lieutenant's pay, 14 The Story of a Campaign in Kabylia, Of course I shall not attempt to account for this phenomenon, or explain the mode of procedure of these gentlemen. That is their business ; and it is not the business of the army of Africa. A good soldier's duty is to fight when his country requires his services, and not to thrust his nose into doubtful matters. But you will understand that those fellows stick fast to their posts in proportion to their profits, and that the Arab bureaux look upon the civil administration as their most dangerous enemy. So we went on, thinking ; I upon my horse Negro, which seemed to me to be moving on thoughtfully like ourselves, raising his head, and looking around, with a low neigh ; and my men upon their low car, with old Lubin in front, in his weather-stained blouse, his frag- ment of an old hat hanging over his ear, crying at every step, " Hue, Grisette, hue !" which had not the least effect in inducing her to move faster. Now and then we met an Arab on the road, perched upon his horse with his knees up, as if he were sitting in an arm-chair, his long, full white burnouse covering him down to the stirrups, his long rifle slung over his shoulder ; further on, perhaps, a young woman return- ing from the neighbouring well, with her stone jug resting on her shoulder. Not a word passed between us. Those people always seemed to treat us with contempt, passing us without so muck as a sidelong glance. In the little village of Dalmatie, where we arrived about six in the morning, my men insisted on my taking a glass of wine, which I could not refuse. That thin Dalmatian wine is excellent ; but for all that I told them plainly, after wiping my moustache, that we would Told by a Chasseur d'Afrique. 15 have no more stoppages on the way, because an officer has his own duties to perform ; that if they behaved well they should have their share of fifty francs which my friend Jaquet had lent me, to lighten the fatigue of the journey ; but that if they played any tricks upon me, they should get nothing but their pay. They pro- mised that all should be well, and we started, having only about thirty kilometres further to go.* On my way I could not help smiling at the thought of the sportsmen in our country, wearying themselves from morning to night running after a hare, while from every clump of dwarf oaks, mastics, or aloes, interwoven with a long grass called alfa, flights of partridges and Carthage hens swarmed out in all directions. It is most assuredly a country well stocked with game ! As for agriculture, there is a profusion of every product. That is the country for our poor labourers to live in with their wives and children, who have to toil so hard to get a little barley and a few potatoes to grow out of the red sand of our mountains. But we should be far better without those Arab bureaux, which are the cause of perpetual wars in Africa ; and what farmers want in the very first place is peace. Sometimes, on raising our eyes, we would notice far over the mulberry, olive, and other trees, far up the hillside, an Arab shepherd leaning upon his long crook, and silently gazing upon us, with his lean, short-haired dog behind him, amongst the little flock of sheep. To complete the picture, we met from time to time a Kabyle, a native of another kind, darker, more spare, * A kilometre is 1,093 yards, therefore thirty kilometres aro about eighteen miles. Tr. 16 The Story of a Campaign in Kabylia, and yet more muscular than the Arab, and mostly em- ployed in trade. These men are seldom seen on horse- back, being genuine mountaineers. They passed by us wrapped in greasy burnouses, and driving their mules loaded with skins of oil. Oil is the chief article of the Kabyle trade. In every village is a press to which the natives bring their crops of olives. The Kabyles supply our. markets with oranges, citrons, peaches, pomegra- nates, melons, cucumbers 1 , peppercorns, the fruit of the egg-plant in a word, with all the fruits and vegetables which they grow around their villages. Corn is grown only by the Europeans. They make that their business. My chasseurs began with singing comic songs and laughing over them, and then they turned to some of the old songs they had sung in the Crimea, in Italy, in Mexico, and even at Luneville in Lorraine, before the retreat upon Metz and Sedan, when three out of four of our old comrades had fallen in arms. Thinking of those brave fellows, the little party looked grave. They had all done their duty, and now were lying in the mists of the Meuse and the Moselle. But is it not better to be dead, than to live and to remember that you have given up your sword to save your life and your munitions of war? At any rate, the dead feel no shame, and their memory animates the patriot's breast. At last, at the distance of four kilometres from the end of our first day's march, I went ahead, knowing that at Arba I should find my old comrade Eellin, who had been detached a fortnight before, along with twenty men, to guard a powder-train. On approaching Arba, I observed outside the walls the bivouac, the ammunition waggons, the tents, the. Told by a Chasseur d'Afrique. 17 picketed horses. I galloped there at once, and I can fancy I still see old Rellin, with his pointed beard, his kepi over one ear, busy mending his boots. I can still hear him calling to me, thrusting his head through his tattered tent " Hallo, Goguel ! is that you ? Come on, old fello\v Of course you have got the pay for my detachment ?" " No, that I have not. I have nothing for you but a good appetite, which I recommend to your care." He laughed, and answered, " Well, then, come off your horse." And turning to one of his chasseurs, who was rubbing down the horses a little further off, he cried " Mathis, picket the quartermaster's horse, and see that he is properly attended to." " Yes, quartermaster." " And inform the cook that there's work for another knife and fork." Then he came out, and taking me by the arm, he said " Now we'll have a glass of vermouth, till the cook has made all ready." We were passing the low wall of the bivouac, when, turning round again, with his hands hollowed on each side of his mouth, he shouted " Mathis, you will find us at the ' Colon Econome.' " The chasseur beckoned that he heard, and we threaded our way down a narrow passage in front of the bivouac. Arba is a large, fine European village, situated at the junction of the military road along the foot of the Atlas, with that from Algiers to Aumale ; its houses are in straight lines and substantially built, roofed with tiles, and well whitewashed. The village has a church, a guard-house, a large mill 18 The Story of a Campaign in Kalylia, upon the El-Arach, a noble square planted with trees, a fine fountain built in the form of a cross, and outside, just where we were encamped, a corn and cattle market, to which the neighbouring dealers resort twice in the week. A little further on, we entered the handsome inn called " Le Colon Econome," a corner house ; but we had scarcely had time to take our seats, when Mathis came to call us at twelve exactly, and we returned to the bivouac, where my men, who had just arrived, were sharing their comrades' mess. Eellin and I, seated upon our saddles in the shadow of his tent, dined off a boiled chicken and rice, and as I had remembered to bring a bottle of wine from the inn, we made ourselves very comfortable ; and then we had coffee. Whilst eating and drinking, Eellin informed me that a Ca'id in the neighbourhood of Aumale had thrown up his office and his pay, and declared war against us ; that the third and fourth squadrons of the regiment had started for Aumale by forced marches, leaving twenty baggage carts standing close by ours, under the guard of a few chasseurs ; and that he was expecting every minute the arrival of a battalion of the First Zouaves to escort the train. He informed me besides that the diligence from Algiers had ceased running, and that the Arabs had begun hostilities by cutting the telegraph wires. This news surprised me, for at Blidah that very morning there had been no mention of all this. Eellin assured me that the Arabs had been tempting our men to sell them chassepot cartridges, which made them suspect that something wrong was going on. Told by a Chasseur tfAfrique. 19 I was indeed surprised at first ; the notion of crossing swords with the Arabs then came over me, and filled me with excitement ; and thinking of these matters, I went to take an afternoon nap in Bellin's tent. About four o'clock he awoke me; we found all right, the chasseurs at their post, and we returned to the " Colon Econome." A crowd of Algerine corn and cattle dealers, who had no doubt come for next day's market, filled the public room, and were drinking beer. The innkeeper's two daughters found their hands full. These men, with their straw hats and dark faces, seemed to be very good fellows. The sight of our uniforms was some satisfaction to them; they invited us to a glass of beer with them ; Eellin accepted, and we were very soon deep in their politics. A little old white-headed man, with animated eyes and a sharp nose, argued that the Empire was the cause of all our misfortunes. He knew everything that had happened in the colony for forty years, and energetically thumped the table with his small fist. He told us of numberless abominable deeds done by the Arab bureaux, the congregations of Jesuits, the commercial companies, and many others besides. I don't know where the little man had picked up all this ; and all I can remember just now was his winding- up, when he cried " Yes, gentlemen, that's just how we stand. It's melancholy it is dreadful to think of! But wait a few days, and you will see worse coming. I am told that out at Aumale things are looking bad; that Mahomet-el-Mokrani is in open revolt. Well, I should not be surprised if Arab bureaux were at the bottom of that. It is said that the new governor .general, 20 The Stoiy of a Campaign in Kabylia, Monsieur de Grueydon, has arrived with full powers from the Republic, and that his first act will be the suppression of the Arab bureaux. I doubt it; for Monsieur de Gueydon is a Royalist, and under the influence of the priests ; but still the Arab bureaux, believing themselves in danger, may very likely get up a little insurrection, just as they have done so many times before, to prove oce more that they are indis- pensable." Not one of those dealers found fault with his speech ; on the contrary, they all seemed to be of his opinion, and as for us it was not our business, and we listened without making remarks of our own. Towards evening all those people went away, and we two remained at the inn alone, watching the movements of the innkeeper's daughters, Marguerite and Marie ; the first a dark-eyed, lively brunette ; the second a fair- haired girl. They were putting the house to-rights after the confusion left by the visitors. The younger ended her work by laying the cloth for supper ; and the landlord, Monsieur Pouchet a tall, thin man, of very respectable appearance pleased, no doubt, with our quiet behaviour, invited us to take our soup with his family, an invitation we accepted with great pleasure. I took good care to let everybody be seated first, and then managed to sit by the side of Mademoiselle Marie, whose blue eyes and fair hair reminded me of the young lasses of the Vosges. I should be very much puzzled to tell you what we had for supper ; but I think it was a haricot soup, fol- lowed by a leg of mutton, flavoured with garlic, and a salad; but this I can positively affirm, that when I returned to the bivouac about ten, I would willingly Told by a Chasseur d'Afrigue. 21 Lave given my quartermaster's stripes to be always seated at the side of Mademoiselle Marie ; and that that night, not having unpacked my tent, and sharing Eellin's with him, I prevented him from even closing his eyes by boring him with my enthusiastic admiration of that young lady. It was a magnificent, bright, and starlight night. The nightingales were chanting out of every orange grove with all the powers of their tuneful voices, and the sweet perfume of the flowers drove me crazy. " You are asleep, Bellin ? Are you not ashamed of yourself to sleep such a night as this ?" said I, nudging him with my elbow. " No, no I can hear you go on, go on !" said he, beginning to snore softly, " I am listening." II. AT daybreak I rose up ; I fed Negro, and woke up old Lubin, who made haste to give his nag his proven- der. The chasseurs were already preparing their coffee ; Mathis brought us ours ; then having saddled my horse, and my men having mounted their cart, I shook hands with Eellin, and we were at once on our way to Alma our second day's march. Passing the village, I stopped a couple of minutes at the " Colon Econome," in hopes of getting one more look at Mademoiselle Marie, and bidding her adieu ; but all was silent and motionless in the house, and it was only when we had gone a little further that, turn- ing my head round for a last parting glance at the inn, I saw Monsieur Pouchet opening his blind, and wavirg B 22 The Story of a Campaign in Kabylia, his farewell with his outstretched hand. Such is a soldier's life. You arrive with your heart perfectly sound. A pair of beautiful large eyes pierces you through and through. You would give anything to stay, but the bugle sounds, and " March !" For an hour I could think of nothing else ; then niy reflections took another turn. The appearance of the country was changing ; brush- wood was taking the place of cultivated land along both sides of our way. At one spot, looking round, we dis- tinguished at our left, over the plain, the distant sea and the city of Algiers, with its white houses seen against the blue sky all around the bay. The cart stopped, and my chasseurs and Lubin, gazing on the prospect, sniffed with satisfaction the smell of the sea, borne upon the breezes which came to us in gentle whiffs over the wide expanse. Then, resuming our way, we arrived at Fondouck, a small village, but girt round with fortifications. A pretty lively business is carried on here in wine and cattle ; and we were able to lay in a small stock of potatoes and bacon. But there was no wood, and we therefore left this place, fording the stream which comes down from the Atlas. But then began our miseries ; at every step the way became worse, rocks and rocks followed each other in endless succession ; from one rut you tumbled into another. The old horse was soon spent. Lubin swore, the chasseurs hallooed, but this did not help us. To complete our tale of misery, at two kilometres from the village the axle-tree of our poor cart snaps in two ; I must return at the gallop to look for a black- smith, while my chasseurs stand waiting. I am told Told by a Chasseur d'Afrique. 23 that there is one further on, on the road we are travel, ling. I trot back, I find the cart emptied ; the miser- able beast at last obeys the whip to induce him to move on a little ; of course we shout and cry again, and at last it begins to move slowly on, and at three kilo metres further on we come upon an old hut, where fortunately we find Eivero the blacksmith, a man from Mahon a little dark fellow, who is living there with his three children. As soon as we had arrived our miseries were for- gotten, and whilst the bellows were blowing, and the hammer ringing a merry tune upon the anvil, my chasseurs were hunting for wood, and artichokes, onions, and salad in the little vegetable garden behind the hut ; others cooked, and soon a smoking omelette was produced, made from the whites of the artichokes. This was the first I had ever tasted, and I declare to you that it was excellent. At length the cart was repaired, Eivero paid, and once more we started on our road, if that can be called a road where only a few tracks indistinctly marked out the way through cactuses, aloes, lentiscuses, rocks, hollows, and ruts of every size and shape. In