THE 
 
 FLOWER 
 GARDEN 
 
 
 IDA. D.BENNETT 
 
DSPT. OF AGRICULTURE 
 OiV. OF AQrt'L EDVCAT10M 
 
 Main Lib. Agric. opt. 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Class 
 
THE FLOWER GARDEN 
 
 DBPT. OF AGRICULTURE 
 PIV. OF AGR'L EDVCATION 
 
THE 
 
 COUNTRY HOME 
 LIBRARY 
 
 VOL. I 
 The Country Home 
 
 VOL. II 
 
 The Orchard and Fruit 
 Garden 
 
 VOL. Ill 
 
 The Flower Garden 
 
 UNIFORM BINDING 
 
 S Vols. Postpaid, $5.00, Net, $4.50 
 
The Country Home Library 
 
 
 
 THE FLOWER GARDEN 
 
 BY 
 IDA D. BENNETT 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 McCLURE, PHILLIPS & CO. 
 MCMV 
 
 DBPT. OF AGRICULTURE 
 D1V* OF AQR'i- EDVCATION 
 
Main 
 
 Copyright, 1903, *y 
 McCLURE, PHILLIPS f CO 
 
 Published, May, 1903, N 
 
 SECOND IMPRESSION 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER PAGE 
 
 I. THE LOCATION AND ARRANGEMENT 
 
 OF THE GARDEN. ... 3 
 II. SOILS . . . ... 17 
 
 III. FERTILISERS ..... 23 
 
 IV. THE HOTBED, COLD-FRAME AND 
 
 SAND-BOX . . -3 
 
 V. PURCHASING OF SEEDS . . .41 
 
 VI. STARTING SEEDS IN FLATS . . 48 
 
 VII. TRANSPLANTING AND REPOTTING . 53 
 
 VIII. HOUSE-PLANTS FROM SEEDS . . 62 
 
 IX. OUTSIDE WINDOW-BOXES . . 88 
 
 X. VARIOUS ANNUALS FROM SEED . . 98 
 
 XI. VINES . . . . . .128 
 
 XII. ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE PLANTS FROM 
 
 SEED ...... 141 
 
 XIII. BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS - ROOTED 
 
 PLANTS ..... 147 
 
 XIV. AQUATICS . . . . .165 
 
 XV. THE CARE OF THE SUMMER ROSE-BED 173 
 XVI. THE HARDY LILY-BED . . .179 
 
 201914 
 
vi Content. 
 
 CHAPTER PAGE 
 
 XVII. THE CARE OF CANNAS, CALADIUMS, 
 DAHLIAS, AND OTHER BULBS 
 DURING WINTER . . .185 
 XVIII. HARDY SHRUBS AND PLANTS FOR 
 
 FALL PLANTING ". . .196 
 XIX. WINTER PROTECTION . . . 203 
 XX. THE CARE OF HOUSE-PLANTS IN 
 
 WINTER . . . . 208 
 
 XXI. COMMON AND ENGLISH NAMES OF 
 
 FLOWERS . . . . .217 
 XXII. BLOOMING SEASON OF VARIOUS 
 
 TREES, SHRUBS, AND PLANTS . 234 
 
 XXIII. A CHAPTER OF ODDS AND ENDS . 245 
 
 XXIV. A CHAPTER OF DON'TS . . . 253 
 
 INDEX . . . . V . . 259 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Sweet Alyssum and Golden Saxatile are De- 
 sirable for Rockwork . . . Frontispiece 
 
 FACING 
 PAGE 
 
 Ornamental Grasses and Foliage Plants . . 8 
 Manure Water is a good Way to apply Animal 
 
 Fertiliser . 26 
 
 When Plants Appear too Thickly in Rows 
 
 Transplant 32 
 
 A Well constructed Hotbed 32 
 
 Starting Seeds in Flats 50 
 
 Sifting Loam through a Sieve . . . .56 
 
 Repotting . 60 
 
 When Two or Three Inches High Transplant 
 
 Carnations into Pots 72 
 
 An Easily made Carnation Support ... 72 
 Injured or Faded Leaves should be Removed 
 
 at once 86 
 
 Outside Window-boxes 90 
 
 Boxes in which Scythes are Packed make very 
 
 good Window-boxes . . ~ . . 94 
 
Illustrations 
 
 FACING 
 PAGE 
 
 Hanging-baskets for Windows .... 94 
 
 Small Water Gardens 104 
 
 Cool, Moist Spots between Stones . ; . . 108 
 Dusting with Sulphur . . . . ., . 114 
 
 Spraying with Bordeaux Mixture . .'-. , .114 
 Sow Poppies in the Perennial Border among 
 
 the late Flowering Plants . . . . 1 1 6 
 
 A Dead Tree Draped with Vines . . .132 
 Furnish Support for Vines to Run on . . .134 
 Vine-covered Shed . . ... . . 134 
 
 Clematis Paniculata Blooms when most Others 
 
 have Ceased 138 
 
 Shift into larger Pots as Required . . .144 
 Should Bulb Outgrow its Quarters Shift into 
 
 Pot two Sizes larger 160 
 
 Wild Water Flowers for Edging Lily-pond . 166 
 Water-lilies with Background of Bamboo and 
 
 Native Grasses 168 
 
 A Fullblown Cat-tail . . . . . .170 
 
 Native Plants Edging a Natural Water Garden 172 
 
 Training a Climbing Rose 176 
 
 A Rose covered Building . . . . .178 
 A Portion of the Grounds Protected by Shrub- 
 bery is the Place for the Lily-bed . . .182 
 
Illustrations 
 
 FACING 
 PAGE 
 
 Turn out Ball of Earth to Ascertain if Pot is 
 
 filled with Roots . -. . . .192 
 
 A Good Background for Low Shrubs . . 200 
 
 Plants for Late Winter Blooming should be 
 
 brought into the House before Fall . .210 
 
 Fences may be Made Attractive with Vines or 
 Plants 250 
 
 PLATES 
 
 FACING 
 PAGE 
 
 I. Height and Season of Bloom of the 
 
 Different Perennials 10 
 
 II. Plan for a Hardy Border . . .12 
 
 III. Plan for Rose-garden and Foliage-bed 14 
 
THE FLOWER GARDEN 
 
Chapter ONE 
 
 location anti Arrangement 
 of tfje <artien 
 
 A SOUTH slope is the ideal situation 
 for a garden, since it insures good 
 drainage and the greatest amount of 
 sunlight. The garden should also 
 be open to the east and west, if pos- 
 sible; that it may have the benefit of the morning 
 and evening sun. Shelter on the north is desirable, 
 as north winds are disastrous to Roses and tender 
 perennials. Partial shelter on the west should be 
 given in localities where the prevailing winds of 
 winter are from that quarter. 
 
 The south side of a building, or even of a high 
 fence, with trees and tall shrubs at a little distance 
 to the west, is best; though any site that receives 
 abundant sunshine through the morning and early 
 afternoon may be made satisfactory by planting trees 
 and shrubs on the north and west. 
 
 The garden should always be at the rear or side 
 of the dwelling, never in front or along the street. 
 The reasons for this are obvious. The garden proper 
 
4 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 is intended to furnish cut flowers, to provide a place 
 of experiment with new varieties, and to grow hardy 
 perennials which have certain seasons of bloom and 
 cannot be depended upon, at all times, for orna- 
 mental effect. One should feel free to work there 
 unobserved of the passer-by, and this is impossible 
 in a garden close to the street. 
 
 Again, while the permanent garden is beautiful 
 in itself, it is not suitable for the lawn and greatly 
 mars the effect of the grounds. Beds of ornamental 
 foliage plants Cannas, Ricinus, Coleus, and the like 
 appropriately placed, add much to the beauty of 
 a well-kept lawn, but should be carefully considered 
 in relation to its size and the trees and shrubbery 
 already there. 
 
 On a small city lawn not more than one such bed 
 should be allowed. On a large lawn three will give 
 a better effect than a great number, especially if care 
 is taken to have them all visible from different points 
 on the lawn and from the house, never isolating them 
 by so placing that clumps of trees or shrubbery in- 
 tervene, but using these rather as a background for 
 the beds. 
 
 It is from the hammock that the amateur gardener 
 will most enjoy the results of her labour. It is there 
 she will find leisure to watch the growth of plants, 
 to compare the effect of different varieties, to note 
 where she may improve the vista by a different ar- 
 rangement next year, to observe the effects of locality, 
 
one] jLocatton anfr Arrangement s 
 
 of the afternoon and morning sun and all the pecu- 
 liarities of plant growth that escape her when busy 
 with trowel and watering-pot, so that the view from 
 it should be first consideration. 
 
 A very good arrangement is to put a large bed of 
 Ricinus on the most remote space of the lawn four 
 plants in the centre of a twelve- foot bed surrounded 
 with a row of Salvia splendens edged with Little Gem 
 Sweet Alyssum. Nearer, an eight-foot bed of the 
 large-flowered Cannas may be introduced and edged 
 with Coleus or the second size of Caladiums, while a 
 six-foot bed of ornamental grasses Arundo Donax, 
 Erianthus Ravennae, Eulalia gracillima univittata 
 will make a satisfactory third. Such beds are rich in 
 tropical effects and give more distinction to a lawn 
 than any other class of plants. 
 
 Where there is an ample water-supply these beds 
 may be elevated a few inches above the lawn to make 
 them more conspicuous; but where the seasons are 
 hot and dry and water must be carried it is better to 
 set them slightly lower than the lawn, so that all the 
 available moisture may be utilised. A few inches of 
 margin must be allowed around the edges of beds 
 on the lawn so that the mower may run close to the 
 beds without injuring the plants, though even then 
 it will be best to use the lawn-shears. Such beds call 
 for carefully trimmed lawns. Unless the grass can 
 be properly cared for, it is better to exclude flowers 
 from this part of the grounds entirely, as it is time 
 
6 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 thrown away to plant flowers which will presently be 
 hidden by tall grass and weeds. A neglected lawn 
 involves an amount of labour in the semi-annual clean- 
 ing of spring and fall out of all proportion to the re- 
 sults, while a lawn well cut and raked is more easily 
 cared for with each recurring year, the grass growing 
 clean and straight, and the rake and mower passing 
 freely and easily through it. 
 
 The scheme for a permanent garden must be de- 
 cided by the size and shape of the plot of ground at 
 command, an irregular plot sometimes lending itself 
 to more graceful arrangement than a symmetrical one. 
 The operation of laying out the beds will be the same, 
 whatever the shape. Having decided the boundaries 
 of the garden it will be best to mark the outlines by 
 a cord attached to pegs driven into the ground. The 
 sod should then be removed from the entire area by 
 cutting just below the crown of the grass. Desirable 
 arrangements of beds are shown in accompanying 
 illustrations. Two and one-half or three feet should 
 first be allowed for walks. The beds may be placed 
 to advantage by finding the centre of the plot and 
 driving there a stake to which a cord is loosely at- 
 tached. Mark off on this cord half the diameter of 
 the bed desired, for centre of plot, four, five or six feet 
 fasten to the cord at this point a sharp stick and 
 describe the circle on the ground. In this way the 
 garden walks may be outlined and the inner and outer 
 circles of the round beds. The oval beds must be 
 
one] iLocatton anti Arrangement ? 
 
 measured off and defined by stakes driven into the 
 ground. The width of the beds should be not more 
 than can be easily reached across for weeding and 
 cultivating. Where the soil has not been previously 
 cultivated it must be spaded at least two feet deep, 
 and thoroughly pulverised. All roots and stones 
 should be removed. If the soil is clayey or gravelly 
 it will be best to remove it entirely and to fill in with 
 soil better adapted to the growth of flowers. Or the 
 surface may be removed for several inches and laid 
 aside. Then the poorer subsoil should be dug out and 
 removed and the surface-soil replaced in the bot- 
 tom of the bed with a liberal quantity of old, well- 
 rotted manure. The bed should then be filled to its 
 original level with leaf-mould or muck. If all the 
 original soil is to be retained, remove the top-soil for 
 top-dressing. Spade the manure into the subsoil and 
 replace the surface-soil. In ground which has not 
 been cultivated this surface-soil is rich in humus or 
 leaf-mould, which furnishes food in its most available 
 form for the young plant, and should, therefore, be 
 left where the plant can use it and not be turned under 
 as is usually done. Nature never turns the soil upside 
 down; nor will the wise gardener, except when a richer 
 and better soil is to be added or when it is necessary 
 to work in manure. 
 
 In making beds that have been worked before 
 and need no enriching, excellent results may be se- 
 cured by pushing a long spade into the ground the 
 
8 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 whole length of its blade and twisting it around. 
 This breaks up and mellows the ground more effectu- 
 ally than turning it over, while it leaves the good soil 
 on top where the young plant-roots can get it. Later, 
 when the plant grows sturdier and stretches out its 
 roots in search of food, the manure-enriched earth 
 in the bottom of the bed will attract and draw them 
 down into its cool, moist depths, away from the heat 
 and drought of the surface. But the young plants 
 must have mellow, nourishing soil from the start, 
 or they will perish before they reach this store-house 
 provided for the mature plant. 
 
 Never prepare a garden by turning under the sod. 
 I am well aware that this, together with turning under 
 the surface-soil, will be the method of the average 
 man who has had some experience of farming, but 
 the flower-grower cannot always follow farming 
 methods with safety. 
 
 After spading the beds it will be well to inclose 
 them with some such permanent material as brick, 
 cement curbing, or narrow boards. Four-inch siding 
 set in the ground an inch or more, and held in place 
 on each side by pegs of wood (old waggon spokes, 
 which can usually be found at the blacksmith's, are 
 excellent for this), make the cheapest and most 
 quickly constructed inclosure, and may be quite cov- 
 ered with such border-plants as Dusty-miller or Phlox 
 subulata. The boards may be given a coat of dull- 
 green paint or shingle-stain before being put in place. 
 
one] jUcatton anfr Arrangement 9 
 
 The permanent garden beds should have some such 
 protection, as it greatly lessens the work of caring for 
 them. Sod borders are very attractive, but involve 
 an amount of care altogether out of proportion to 
 the effect, as they must be kept closely shaved and the 
 constantly encroaching roots of the plants must be as 
 constantly curbed. This is also the case with grass 
 walks, attractive to look at, but a supreme nuisance 
 to the gardener. Walks of gravel, cinders or coal- 
 ashes are preferable, and should be dug deep enough 
 to smother out all weeds in the soil. If coal-ashes are 
 used the paths should be nearly filled, the roughest, 
 part raked off and the surface gone over with a heavy 
 roller. If left unrolled, however, the surface will be 
 found firm and hard after the first heavy rain. Very 
 good and inexpensive walks are obtained in this man- 
 ner. Walks, of whatever kind, should never be hoed, 
 and the weeds must be removed from them by hand. 
 Hardness and smoothness are the requisites of a good 
 walk. It is well to avoid self-sowing flowers like 
 Sweet Alyssum, or Petunias, near the inside walks, as 
 they come up by thousands in the spring and can only 
 be removed by salting, scalding or uprooting. 
 
 The beds should be well above the surface of the 
 walks, especially those containing hardy perennials 
 like Peonies and Lilies. In the case of most plants, 
 water standing around their roots in winter is abso- 
 lutely fatal. 
 
 The location of the beds and their consequent 
 
io The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 moisture and sunshine must determine the flowers to 
 occupy them. If you are fortunate enough to have a 
 corner low, damp and shaded in the afternoon, that 
 is the place to set out the beautiful Japanese Iris, 
 Cypripedium acaule and other moisture-loving plants, 
 while the Gladiolus may be given a prominent 
 place in full sunshine. Asters and other flowers that 
 do not bloom until fall should have a less conspicuous 
 place; they are so showy that they will not fail to 
 attract attention, wherever they may be planted. 
 Pansies and other low-growing plants should be set 
 out in the bed next the lawn. The general effect is 
 finer when only one kind of flower is grown in a bed, 
 but when two or more varieties of flowers, harmonis- 
 ing in colour, are grown together, the tallest must be 
 placed in the centre and the others grouped according 
 to height. Various plants may be used as edgings, 
 due consideration being given to the plants which are 
 to fill the beds. 
 
 A mass of one kind and colour is more effective than 
 a mixed bed. The beginner will find that the per- 
 centage of success is greater in growing a large num- 
 ber of one kind, all requiring the same conditions of 
 soil, moisture and sunlight, than in trying to force 
 plants of widely different habits to grow under the 
 same conditions. Hardy perennials, however, not 
 many of which deserve an entire bed, do very well 
 with several varieties in the same long bed or border, 
 and may be so grouped as to give a succession of 
 
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 vi. 
 
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 S. ftsrennfa/ ffihx ** Horfy Lr/fes. 
 
 KEY TO PLATE I. 
 
 GIVING THE HEIGHT AND SEASON OF BLOOM OF THE DIFFERENT PERENNIALS, ETC. 
 
 OUTER CIRCLE. 
 Pansies all summer. 
 
 FIRST CORNER BED. 
 A Montbretias in corners, scarlet and orange, 
 
 2 to ^ feet all summer. 
 B Gladioli in centre, in variety, 3 to 4 feet 
 
 September, October. 
 
 C Tuberoses, 3 feet August, September. 
 Border of blooming Oxalis, pink and white, 6 
 
 inches all summer 
 
 CENTRE BED OR MOUND. 
 i Dark red Peony, 2 feet May. 
 2 White Peony, 2 feet June. 
 3 Pink Peony. 2 feet June. 
 4 Large flowered perennial Phlox August, 
 September, October. 
 
 xA Auratum Lily, 2 feet August, Septem- 
 ber. 
 
 x B Speciosum Album, 2 feet August, Sep- 
 tember. 
 
 x C Melpomene, 2 feet August, September. 
 
 x D Auratum. 
 
 x E Longiflorum. white. 2 feet June. 
 
 x F Rubrum, 2 feet August. 
 
 x G Candidum, white, 3 feet June. 
 
 Border Phlox Subulata. 
 
 REAR CORNER BEDS. 
 
 North Bed Anemones, Whirlwind and Queen 
 Charlotte, white and pink, 3 feet Septem- 
 ber. 
 
 Border Wood Anemones. 
 
 South Bed Asters. 2 feet September, October. 
 
 Border Auricula, 8 inches May. 
 
OF THE 
 
 ( UNIVERSITY ) 
 
 OF 
 
one] flotation an* Arrangement n 
 
 bloom throughout the season. A raised bed of 
 Peonies interspersed with the new, large-blooming 
 Phlox and bordered with Japan Lilies will give a suc- 
 cession of flowers from May to October; or a long 
 bed of Hollyhocks, or Hibiscus with a row of large- 
 flowered Phlox in front and edged with dwarf Phlox 
 Drummondii will give months of lovely bloom. This 
 last combination also makes a serviceable screen be- 
 tween the vegetable garden and the lawn, or to hide 
 \ a rear fence. 
 
 In arranging parti-coloured beds of flowers, due 
 Attention must be paid to the harmonising of tints. 
 Do not combine magenta and scarlet, or purple and 
 blue. Separate them by the interposition of white 
 the most valuable colour in the garden, as it not only 
 harmonises all colours but wonderfully enhances their 
 brilliancy. White with scarlet, with blue, or with 
 yellow is always good. Lavender and heliotrope are 
 lovely with nearly all shades of scarlet, rose and pink. 
 Blue flowers planted in the rear of the garden increase 
 its apparent size, while white, bright yellow and scar- 
 let, by bringing the background nearer, decrease it. 
 Monkshood and the tall blue Larkspur are excellent 
 for rear beds. 
 
 The accompanying diagrams will be of assistance in 
 planning the garden not so much in supplying plans 
 to be followed literally as in suggesting other plans 
 and variations, while giving practical information as 
 to number of plants required, their distance apart and 
 
12 The Flower Garden 
 
 the like. Soil and other details will be treated else- 
 where. 
 
 In planning a shrubbery (see Plate II.) it is neither 
 necessary nor desirable to use boards or other curbing 
 for the beds, but the turf should be kept neatly 
 trimmed and cut. A plot 60 by 40 feet or more, in- 
 closing a considerable area of turf, gives room for 
 rustic seats, a stationary hammock, and a tree or *\ 
 The circle in the border greatly increases the 
 modation for plants and furnishes an ideal 
 Lilies. The "lily-pond in the centre will be t *^L, 
 at length in the chapter devoted to aquatic p. 
 
 The rather complicated design in Plate I 
 tended for a rose-garden or for foliage-be^ on a 
 large lawn. It is not at all difficult to construct, and 
 a little practice with paper and pencil will remove any 
 apparent obstacle. If you will draw, on a scale of 
 one inch to a foot with a compass a succession of 
 circles of six, eight and a half, twelve and a half, 
 fifteen and nineteen inches, respectively, the founda- 
 tion of the plan will be laid. Now, divide the fourth 
 circle into fifths and draw a half circle 4^ by 14 feet 
 or inches on the circle of each fifth by placing the 
 point of the compass midway between the fourth and 
 third circle. This will leave a crescent-shaped bed. 
 Mark off from each side of these half circles or cres- 
 cents, on the space between the third and fourth circle, 
 two and one-half feet for paths. Making the lines 
 parallel with the crescents, the remaining spaces will 
 
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 o:p 
 
 i 
 
 r-a 
 
 iiiiiiii 
 NI 
 
 Name of Plant. 
 
 Color. 
 
 KEY TO HARDY BORDER. PLATE II. 
 
 Height. 
 Feet, Inches. 
 
 1. Hypericum Yellow i 6 
 
 2. Deutzia ( Jracilis . .White i 8.... 
 
 3. Lychnis Roseum . Pink i 8 
 
 4. Spinea Filipendula ....White i o. . . . 
 
 5. Platycodon Blue 2 o 
 
 6. Anemone Whirlwind White 3 o ... 
 
 7. Spiraea Anthony Waterer Crimson 2104 o..., 
 
 8. White Foxglove White 3 o ... 
 
 Q Scarlet Lychnis. ...Scarlet 3 o.... 
 
 10. White Foxglove White 3 o.., 
 
 11. Lychnis Splendens Red 3 o..., 
 
 12 White Veronica White 2 o ... 
 
 13. Blue Veronica Blue ...2 o ... 
 
 14. Spiraea Va.n Houttei .v White 3 o. . 
 
 15. Monkshood Fischeri Pale Blue 4 o ... 
 
 16. Hollyhocks in Var. 4105 o 
 
 17. Monkshood, Uncinatum. Dark Blue 4 o.... 
 
 18. Bocconia Cream. .. 5106 o .. 
 
 Season of Bloom. 
 
 . All summer. 
 .May, June. 
 .All summer. 
 .May, June. 
 .All summer. 
 .September, October. 
 
 May, sometimes all summer. 
 . All summer. 
 . All summer. 
 .All summer. 
 .June. July. 
 . August, September. 
 .July, August. 
 .May, June. 
 . September. October. 
 
 Summer, fall. 
 
 June August. 
 .July. August. 
 
 i. Tall Shrubs. 
 
 2. Low Shrubs. 
 Hardy Lilies. 
 
 3. Herbaceous Pereum. 
 ~- Kdging Plants. 
 
location anti Arrangement 13 
 
 form triangular beds, that for convenience may be 
 called the third or outer row of beds. 
 
 Now if radiating lines be drawn from the corners 
 of the crescents to the centre of the plan the point 
 where they cross the third circle will be the upper 
 corners of the first row of beds the lower corners 
 being formed by the point where the radii from the 
 centre and left corners of the crescents cross the sec- 
 ond circle; the third and second circles forming the 
 upper and lower sides; the ends being formed by 
 curved lines drawn from the upper to the lower cor- 
 ners. Or, having completed the row of five crescents 
 and five triangular beds, mark off with pole or 
 ruler radiating lines from the corners and centre of 
 each crescent to the centre of plan; the point where 
 these radii from the circle of crescents cross the third 
 circle will be the upper corner of the first ro\v of beds; 
 the lower corners being formed by the radii from 
 the centre and left-hand corner of crescents; the ends 
 being formed by curved concave lines from upper to 
 lower corner the intervening spaces forming paths. 
 
 For Laying Out the Beds 
 
 USE a long pole with a sharp stake passed through 
 a hole at one end and fastened with a nail 
 driven through it horizontally, so that it can turn 
 easily, with a number of holes for pegs at the required 
 distances six, eight and one-half, twelve and one- 
 
14 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 half, fifteen and nineteen feet. Drive the mov- 
 able stake firmly into the ground, and do not remove 
 until the work is finished. Slip the sharp mark- 
 ing peg into the hole, which it should fit closely, and 
 mark out the circles. For the half circles, or crescents, 
 a nine-foot stick laid straight across the edge of fourth 
 circle will give an approximate fifth, the loss in the 
 curve about equalling the fractional loss caused by 
 multiplying by three alone. Drive a peg with a stick 
 or string attached into the path a foot inside the third 
 line and mark the circles on it; mark the paths by 
 lengthening the stick or string two and a half feet and 
 drawing sections of circles on each side of the half 
 circles from the fourth to the fifth circles. Now bring 
 the end of the long pole to the left corner of half 
 circle and mark the radiating lines and half lines to 
 the centre, and mark off the first row of beds as you 
 did on paper. In this way almost any form of flower- 
 bed may be laid out. The following diagrams for 
 foliage-beds on the lawn will be helpful. 
 
 For a Twelve- foot Foliage-bed 
 
 ONE Ricinus in centre ; three Ricini four feet from 
 first, an equal distance apart or about eight 
 feet. Alternate with these three clumps of tall-grow- 
 ing Cannas. Surround with a row of scarlet Salvias, 
 set one foot from edge of bed and twenty inches apart. 
 Edge with Little Gem Sweet Alyssum. 
 
PLATE III. 
 PLAN FOR ROSE-GARDEN AND FOLIAGE-BED. 
 
one] location ant) Arrangement 15 
 
 Another Twelve-foot Bed 
 
 ONE Ricinus in centre, surrounded at three feet 
 distance by six of the largest sized Caladiums 
 three feet apart. The third row, three feet outside, 
 to be composed of low-growing Cannas Queen 
 Charlotte, Chicago, Florence Vaughan, or Papa 
 eighteen inches apart. Edge with dwarf Nastur- 
 tiums. 
 
 Nine-foot Bed 
 
 ONE Ricinus trimmed in umbrella form that is, 
 the lower leaves removed so that the upper 
 may serve as a shade for the Cannas. First row, six 
 Allemannia Cannas; second row, twelve inches out- 
 side, twelve Burbank Cannas, fourteen inches apart; 
 third row, twenty-five Italia Cannas, fourteen inches 
 apart. Edge with Coleus, set fifteen inches apart. 
 
 Nine- foot Bed 
 
 CENTRE three discolour Cannas, grouped in the 
 corner. First row, twelve Black Beauty Can- 
 nas, eighteen inches apart; second row, eighteen 
 inches outside, twelve large Caladiums, twenty-seven 
 inches apart. 
 
 Twelve- foot Bed 
 
 THREE Ricini in group, equal distance apart. 
 First row, three feet out, scarlet Salvias, twenty 
 inches apart; second row, twelve inches out, white- 
 
1 6 The Flower Garden 
 
 flowered Vincas, twelve inches apart. Edge with scar- 
 let Phlox Drummondii or blue Tom Thumb Agera- 
 tum, six inches apart. 
 
 Nine-foot Bed of Ornamental Grasses 
 
 LARGE clump of Arundo Donax in centre. First 
 row, three feet out, three Erianthus Ravennae, 
 six feet apart ; second row, twelve Eulalia gracillima 
 univittata, two feet apart. 
 
 Eight-foot Bed 
 
 \ LARGE clump of Setaria magna in the centre. 
 JL\. First row, Coix lachryma, eighteen inches 
 apart ; second row, twenty inches out, Pennisetum 
 Ruppellianum, eighteen inches apart. 
 
 I cannot too highly recommend the planting of 
 ornamental grasses on the lawn. They are exten- 
 sively used in parks and in other public grounds, but 
 not nearly so extensively as they should be on private 
 grounds. Many of them are perfectly hardy, and 
 once established grow in beauty from year to year; 
 others in the Northern States may be easily wintered 
 in the cellar, while still others may be cheaply and 
 easily raised from seed each year. 
 
Chapter TWO 
 
 IN every garden the matter of soil is of first im- 
 portance. In case of an outdoor garden the 
 existing conditions will largely determine the 
 class of plants to be grown. 
 
 A good loam that is a non-coherent mixt- 
 ure of clay and sand with a proportion of such de- 
 cayed vegetable matter as leaves and the fibrous roots 
 of grasses is the best garden soil, being what is 
 termed warm and early. Soil containing a good pro- 
 portion of sand is warm, while a preponderance of 
 clay makes what is known as cold or wet soil. 
 
 If there is good drainage, cold soil can be rendered 
 lighter, sandier and more friable by the liberal applica- 
 tion of manure, which in two or three years will quite 
 change its character. But this is a long time to wait, 
 and to get quick results it will be necessary, after lay- 
 ing out the garden and outlining the beds, to remove 
 the earth to a depth of twenty inches or more, filling 
 in with soil suitable for the class of plants to be grown 
 in each bed. In the beds intended for Roses, however, 
 the clay may be left, as Roses require this soil. Where 
 
 17 
 
i& The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 it is not present it should be supplied and added to 
 each year, as the heavy manuring which Roses require 
 constantly reduces the relative proportion of clay. 
 For the Pansy bed nothing better than leaf-mould 
 from the woods can be procured. For this bed re- 
 move six or eight inches of earth, spade in a good 
 supply of old, well-rotted manure from the cow-stable, 
 top-dress with several inches of leaf-mould. You 
 will have a bed that will give magnificent Pansies and 
 few weeds. For the Salvia, Canna, Ricinus, Caladium 
 and other strong-growing plants no soil is better than 
 the muck or peat of swamps soil composed of partly 
 carbonised vegetable matter decomposed by the action 
 of water. Leaf-mould consists of vegetable matter 
 which has decayed without being submerged, and it 
 usually contains a liberal quantity of sharp, white 
 sand, to which it owes its friable, non-adhesive char- 
 acter. Leaf-mould is commonly found around de- 
 cayed stumps and in hollow places in the woods, where 
 the leaves have drifted and decayed. It is ready for 
 immediate use. Muck or peat, however, which is 
 found in bogs and swamps, is unfit for garden use 
 when freshly dug except for aquatic plants being 
 tough and fibrous. It should therefore be dug during 
 the summer, thrown in a heap and left for the winter 
 frost to rot and render tractable. For immediate use 
 the best method is to place it in a deep hole in the bed 
 and cover with several inches of loam, or old muck. 
 If this is kept worked or mulched to exclude air and 
 
Two] 
 
 retain the moisture in the muck, excellent results may 
 be secured. The bed may also be partly filled with 
 muck and covered with loam, the whole object being 
 to prevent the muck drying out into hard lumps, as 
 it will, when green, on exposure to sun and air. The 
 following spring the loam may be spaded into the 
 muck, giving a warm, mellow, exceedingly rich soil 
 that will grow anything. The importance of starting 
 out with good soil cannot be too strongly urged. It 
 seems at first sight to call for a considerable expendi- 
 ture of time and money especially where the earth 
 must be purchased and the labour paid for but in the 
 long run it is a decided saving. 
 
 With unsuitable soil there must be many failures, 
 resulting in loss of both plants and seeds, and this in 
 itself is no small expense. The labour of caring for 
 such a garden is many times greater, for the top- 
 dressing of manure required produces an incessant 
 crop of weeds, which must be removed, not once, but 
 many times during the summer, while beds filled with 
 leaf-mould or muck need but one or two weedings. 
 The weeds which grow naturally in these soils do not 
 flourish in the open ground. A few Smartweeds and 
 Nettles may be expected in the one case, and Violets 
 and Spring-beauties in the other. In the manured 
 garden soil an endless procession of Purslane, Malice, 
 Ragweed and the like must be constantly watched for. 
 The presence of clay and gravel in the soil always 
 renders it hard and given to caking, necessitating fre- 
 
20 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 quent cultivation; while muck-beds, after the pre- 
 liminary spading in the spring, remain free and mel- 
 low throughout the season. 
 
 Replacing soil presents more difficulties to city 
 dwellers than to those living in the country, or in small 
 towns, but, as there are in the vicinity of most of our 
 cities rich peat lands, it ought not to be difficult to 
 obtain one or two loads of this useful material. Near 
 the small towns are always to be found farmers who 
 own or live near marsh-land, and can supply muck, 
 especially where they have been ditching. A good 
 waggon-load may be had at prices ranging from fifty 
 cents to two dollars, according to the distance to be 
 hauled. The cost in the city would, of course, be 
 much greater. 
 
 It is well for the amateur gardener to learn early 
 in her experience to keep her eyes open to all things 
 pertaining to the success of the garden. When driv- 
 ing, note the marsh-lands easily accessible from the 
 highway, especially where they have been ditched 
 or partially reclaimed, and interview the owner or 
 tenant. In the dull season on the farm the owner of 
 such soil may be glad to earn an extra dollar or two, 
 and it may also be suggested to the farmers' boys, 
 who have marsh- and wood-lands, that they may earn 
 pocket-money by calling on people known to be cul- 
 tivating flowers or building new homes, to solicit their 
 orders. Many people who grow flowers do not know 
 where to apply for earth, and an advertisement in a 
 
TWO] |s>otte 
 
 21 
 
 local paper would, doubtless, prove advantageous to 
 customer and purveyor. On hillsides along the road, 
 and places which the rain has washed, one may gather 
 quantities of pure white or grey sand for potting. 
 Yellow sand is not suitable for such use, as it contains 
 much clay and cakes badly after watering, while the 
 white or grey sand remains line and loose. 
 
 Leaf-mould is not so readily procurable, as it must 
 be gathered from suitable patches through the woods, 
 and the farmers do not like to bother with it. Besides, 
 they are likely to dig up much undesirable under-soil. 
 It is better to go one's self for this. A still better way 
 is to make your own leaf-mould. Thus: when sod 
 is removed from the ground for any purpose, shake 
 out the fine soil that adheres to it for future use ; or 
 slice off the fine roots with a sharp knife just below the 
 crown of the grass. This is known as fibrous loam, 
 and, in combination with leaf-mould, old manure and 
 fine, sharp sand, makes the very finest potting soil. 
 Throw the tops of the sods in a heap in some out-of- 
 the-way corner and add the rakings of the yard in 
 fall and spring, all weeds pulled during the summer, 
 all vegetable refuse, potato-parings, apple-peelings, 
 corn-husks, and berry-hulls anything that has vege- 
 table matter and will decay. All dish-water and slops 
 that are not needed on the garden may be thrown on 
 the pile, which should be turned over occasionally 
 during the winter. By the following spring you will 
 have the finest kind of leaf-mould. Not all of the pile 
 
22 The Flower Garden 
 
 will have decayed, but along the sides and underneath 
 it will be found ready. for use. Add to it every bit of 
 available vegetable matter during the year, including 
 the annual flowers pulled up after their season of 
 bloom, the tops of such root-plants as Cannas, Cala- 
 diums, Gladioli, etc., and you will soon have a supply 
 quite adequate to the needs of an ordinary garden. 
 Where there are water-works the hose may be turned 
 on frequently to hasten decomposition. If it is im- 
 possible to replace all poor soil in the garden with 
 better, by the addition of leaf-mould and manure, 
 much may be accomplished in the way of building up 
 the old and rendering it suitable. 
 
 If the plot to be used can be ploughed up, well 
 manured, and sown to clover, the clover turned under 
 in the fall, a good top-dressing of manure given, 
 and the whole turned again in the spring, the soil 
 should be in good garden condition. 
 
 Where the soil is a good, warm loam the addi- 
 titon of fertilisers will always give excellent results, 
 though there is the disadvantage of weeds and extra 
 cultivation to consider. The first cost of suitable 
 earth is great, but it pays in the end in the saving of 
 fertilisers, labour, expensive seeds and flowers. 
 
Chapter THREE 
 
 ^fertilisers 
 
 FERTILISERS in the form of animal ma- 
 nures, chemicals or vegetable matter come 
 next in importance to a good soil. Horse, 
 cow, sheep, and poultry droppings are the 
 cheapest and most direct in results. Of 
 the four, cow manure is probably the best for the 
 majority of plants, especially Pansies, Iris, Violets, 
 Ferns and others which love a cool soil. Cow manure 
 is known as a cool manure, and is suitable for a warm 
 or sandy soil. Horse manure, which is more heating, 
 especially when from young stock, is better on cold 
 or clayey soil, as it has the effect of breaking up the 
 adhesiveness of the clay and promoting the formation 
 of sand. Hen manure is very warm and is therefore 
 most suitable for cold soils. Sheep manure is espe- 
 cially desirable for Roses and house-plants, about 
 one part manure to six of earth being the propor- 
 tion. 
 
 Good results may be obtained by the use of any or 
 all of these, if in the proper condition and judiciously 
 
24 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 applied. Manure is in proper condition when it has 
 passed completely through the heating or fermenting 
 stage. Fresh manure should never be placed where 
 it, or the water that leaches from it, can possibly 
 come in contact wth the plants; manure should be 
 six months or, better still, a year old before being 
 used. Old and well-rotted manure has much the 
 appearance of rich, black earth, and is readily assimi- 
 lated by the plants. It should be fine and free from 
 such rough litter as corn-stalks, cobs, and long straws, 
 and should be thoroughly mixed with the soil. As 
 manure is full of the seeds of weeds and grasses, it 
 is better, when applying it in the spring, to remove a 
 portion of the top-soil and work the manure into the 
 subsoil by spading, and then to return the top-soil. 
 This will prevent their germination and save a great 
 deal of weeding during the summer. 
 
 Manure that retains its original form is too fresh to 
 use and should be thrown in a heap and frequently 
 forked over to hasten decomposition. It will be fit 
 by another season, but older stuff must be procured 
 for present use. Where there is room it is a wise 
 provision to keep a pile of manure from year to year, 
 in order to avoid the inconvenience of looking for it 
 when you need it. No better expenditure can be 
 made by the gardener than in purchasing several loads 
 of old manure, when it is discovered in some neigh- 
 bouring barn-yard. If one has no supply and must 
 purchase, the matter should be attended to in the fall 
 
Three] 
 
 at latest, to allow ample time for saving it. Farmers 
 usually draw the manure on the land as it accumulates, 
 so that it is difficult to obtain in the spring. 
 
 Ashes contain a certain amount of phosphates, 
 which tend to sweeten the soil. They are also bene- 
 ficial in increasing the strength or stiffness of the 
 stalks, and for this reason are valuable for Aster and 
 Gladiolus beds; they should never be mixed with 
 manure, as is frequently done, but should be strewn 
 over the surface of the soil after the other fertilisers 
 are worked in. Ashes mixed with manure release the 
 ammonia of the latter, depriving it of one of its most 
 valuable properties. Ammonia itself is not a fer- 
 tiliser but a stimulant, creating in the plant a desire 
 for the food stored up in the manure in other words, 
 an appetiser. Plants, like people, will not eat unless 
 they have an appetite, and manure mixed with ashes 
 is poorer and much less valuable in every way to the 
 farmer and gardener. Soot is another excellent chem- 
 ical fertiliser, adding much to the richness of colour 
 in both flower and foliage. Apply either dry or 
 mixed with the surface-soil, or in the form of a tea 
 made by pouring water over the soot in a vessel. 
 Draw off the liquid after the mixture has settled and 
 apply it around the roots of the plants, taking care 
 that it does not touch the foliage. It is especially 
 good for Pansies and Roses. 
 
 Manure-water is a good way to apply animal fertil- 
 iser, as it is fairly free from the seeds of weeds, which 
 
26 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 constitute the chief drawback to the solid form. To 
 prepare it take a water-tight barrel or half-barrel and 
 put a spigot in the side near the bottom. Place three 
 or four inches of clean straw in the barrel, letting it 
 come well up above the spigot, then fill half full of 
 manure. It is not necessary that the manure should 
 be so very old ; it needs only to have passed the fer- 
 mentation period. Fill the barrel with water. Fit a 
 tight cover over it and it is soon ready to use. As 
 long as the liquid runs the colour of coffee or a strong 
 tea the manure will not need renewing, and more 
 water may be added from time to time, but when it 
 shows signs of exhaustion empty the barrel, put the 
 refuse on the compost heap and fill the barrel as 
 before. If the liquid is to be used on pot-plants it will 
 be better to use boiling water in the barrel to destroy 
 the eggs and chrysalis of the white-worms and other 
 larvae that infest the manure; or add a half tea- 
 spoonful of Paris green to the water. The first 
 drawings from the barrel should be well diluted 
 before using, especially when applied to dry soil. 
 If hen manure is used, it should be made much 
 weaker than other manures, as it is very heating and 
 likely to burn the roots of plants. A convenient way 
 to handle the manure barrel is to carry a watering-pot 
 of water to the barrel each time, emptying it in at the 
 top and drawing off a corresponding amount at the 
 spigot in this way the barrel is kept constantly full 
 and extra steps saved. Liquid manure may also be 
 
Three] 
 
 prepared by filling a pail half full of manure, adding 
 boiling water, and dipping off the liquid when the 
 sediment is settled. 
 
 After a heavy rain there will often be a pool in some 
 corner of the barn-yard where sufficient liquid manure 
 may be dipped up to fill a barrel or hogshead. Where 
 the barn-yard is paved with cobble-stones as all barn- 
 yards should be, for health and cleanliness a catch- 
 basin may be easily arranged which the natural slope 
 of the land will fill when it rains. This will more than 
 pay for the trifling outlay for its construction, as it 
 need only be a depression in the soil, covered with 
 cement. Even stiff clay will .answer. It is surprising 
 how carelessly farmers let such valuable property go 
 to waste while they buy load after load of manure at 
 the stables in town and haul it long distances. The 
 yield of the strawberrry- and asparagus-beds alone 
 would be sufficiently increased to pay for such a catch- 
 basin many times over. 
 
 Soapsuds furnish another excellent fertiliser, and 
 every drop of water from the wash-room, bed-room 
 and kitchen should be saved and applied around the 
 roots of plants especially Roses, Dahlias, and vines, 
 which never seem to get enough of either moisture or 
 nourishment. Slop-water should not be put on the 
 foliage of plants, as it leaves a scum that is difficult 
 to get rid of. 
 
 A very good substitute for commercial bone-meal 
 may be manufactured at home by saving all the bones 
 
28 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 from the kitchen, throwing them into a stone jar, 
 covering them with strong lye, and allowing them to 
 remain until soft enough to be pulverised and dug 
 into the soil. The lye that remains may also be ap- 
 plied to the soil after being diluted with water. Blood 
 obtained at the slaughter-house is an excellent fertil- 
 iser, containing much easily assimilated plant food in 
 a soluble form. Feathers contain much valuable ma- 
 terial in the way of phosphates, but are not suitable 
 for the annual beds. They may be applied to shrubs 
 and hardy perennials by digging them into the ground 
 at a little distance from the plants, where the roots 
 will reach out and find them. Hoof-parings from the 
 blacksmith shop are also valuable for the perennial 
 bed. Indeed, with all the forms of plant food avail- 
 able there is no excuse for starving plants. There 
 are, of course, many commercial plant foods and fer- 
 tilisers on the market, bone-meal and guano being 
 the most reliable among them, but many of them are 
 expensive and uncertain in their action. Being highly 
 concentrated they are likely to do harm in the hands 
 of the inexperienced. The natural manures are the 
 safest. 
 
 In using liquid manures either on the open ground 
 or on potted plants, they should only be applied when 
 the soil has been well watered the day before, never 
 when it is dry. The plant, being supplied with all it 
 needs to drink, absorbs only what it requires for 
 nourishment and is less likely to be injured by an 
 
Three] 
 
 overdose. The moisture in the soil serves also to 
 reduce the strength of the manure. 
 
 In applying old cow or horse manure to new beds 
 a wheel-barrow load to every nine square feet is not 
 too much for strong growing plants such as Ricinus, 
 Cannas, and Salvias. Half that quantity of hen ma- 
 nure will be sufficient. 
 
Chapter FOUR 
 
 flotfceti, Colteframe atifc 
 
 THE hotbed is an enclosure, affording 
 bottom heat and protection from cold, 
 for the propagation of tender plants 
 unsuited to sowing in the open ground, 
 and for starting plants too early in 
 the season for open-air operations. The hotbed is 
 usually started in February or March in the latitude 
 of Philadelphia, while April is early enough in the 
 latitude of Detroit and Chicago. Plants are trans- 
 ferred to the open ground when all danger of frost is 
 past. With the exception of a few plants like Poppies, 
 which do not bear disturbance, all seeds yield better 
 results if planted where they have protection in their 
 early stages from drying wind, burning sun and nip- 
 ping cold. This protection the cold-frame gives, while 
 the hotbed affords the additional advantage of artifi- 
 cial heat. Plants thus started will be ready to trans- 
 plant about the time seeds could be started in the open 
 ground an important gain in northern latitudes, 
 
 30 
 
f^otbeti 
 
 where, between the early and late frosts there is hardly 
 time for the maturing of annuals. 
 
 The hotbed should be situated on the south side 
 of a building, wall or fence, where it will have the 
 full benefit of the sun and be protected from cold 
 winds. It is also desirable that the land should slope 
 toward the south, that all surface water may drain 
 away, and that the bed may receive the greatest 
 amount of sunshine during the day. In constructing 
 a hotbed dig a pit two feet deep. This may be lined 
 with planks or bricks, or left with its earthen walls. 
 Over this build a frame of rough lumber around four 
 posts of three- or four-inch stuff, three feet two inches 
 high in the back, and two feet eight inches high in the 
 front. If the pit is not lined, this will bring the frame 
 below the surface and allow a sufficient slant for the 
 free shedding of water and the concentration of the 
 greatest amount of sunshine on the bed. Regular 
 hotbed sash are three feet by six, and cost about two 
 dollars and seventy-five cents each, glazed and 
 painted. These are usually arranged to rest on the 
 frame, simply sliding up and down, the size of the 
 bed determining the number of sash. A bed three by 
 six, however, is more easily handled than a larger 
 one; and two or more beds, set end to end, or one 
 long, narrow one divided by partitions into three-by- 
 six beds, will be more satisfactory in every way than 
 a wider one. The partitions are necessary, not alone 
 to strengthen the frame and support the sash, but to 
 
32 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 insure to each section the special treatment it requires. 
 Not all seeds germinate in the same temperature, or 
 require the same degree of moisture. There is, also, 
 a great difference in the period of germination ; some 
 seeds sprout in from three to five days ; others require 
 as many weeks. With separate sections seeds of 
 similar habits and requirements may be planted to- 
 gether. 
 
 Florists' sash makes an expensive hotbed, and 
 quite as satisfactory results may be obtained by using 
 such old window-sash as may be picked up for about 
 twenty-five cents apiece where buildings are being torn 
 down or from junk or hardware dealers. Old sash 
 will probably need some glazing and painting, and 
 these are among the things the amateur gardener 
 should learn to do for herself, as sash must be water- 
 tight and in order at all times. A sudden hail-storm, 
 a mischievous cat or careless handling may leave one 
 with broken glass that must be replaced at once. 
 When old sash is used the back of the frame should 
 be higher than the sides by the thickness of the sash, 
 so that the sash may be fastened to it with hinges if 
 desired. A cross-piece from the back to the front for 
 the sash to rest on will give greater stability and 
 prevent draughts of cold air on a sudden fall of tem- 
 perature. 
 
 Having constructed the pit, fill it with fresh manure 
 from the horse-stable that from young, grain-fed 
 stock being best. It must be perfectly fresh, gathered 
 
cu 
 
 a. vT 
 < 
 
Four] Cf)e flotfoefc 33 
 
 from the stalls in the morning, and should be mixed 
 with a quantity of litter long straw or leaves. This 
 serves as fuel, insuring a continuous heat. Without it 
 the heat germinated by the manure would quickly die 
 out and the bed become cold. Throw the manure 
 loosely into the frame, close the sash and wait for 
 fermentation or heating. This should take place 
 in from twelve to twenty- four hours; if longer than 
 that it will be as well to throw out the manure and 
 begin again, making sure this time that the manure is 
 absolutely fresh. When the thermometer by rising 
 to 100 or more degrees shows that fermentation is 
 well under way, the manure should be well tramped 
 down, as level and smooth as possible. Over this 
 place a couple of inches of fine, old, well-rotted ma- 
 nure. This will afford nourishment for the young 
 plants should they make sufficient growth to need it, 
 or on account of stress of weather be detained in the 
 hotbed longer than expected. If this is not supplied 
 the tender roots of the plants are apt to go in search 
 of the crude manure in the bottom of the hotbed, and 
 be injured by contact with it. When plants that have 
 come up thrifty suddenly turn yellow and look as if 
 they had been scalded, though sufficiently protected 
 from the sun, it is probable that their roots have been 
 burned by the manure. This may be determined by 
 digging down to the roots.. If they have reached the 
 manure the cause is evident; other plants in the same 
 beds, with shallower roots, it will be observed, are not 
 
34 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 affected in the same way. As this is not likely to hap- 
 pen until the plants have made considerable growth 
 the season will probably be enough advanced to per- 
 mit of planting out, especially with protection at 
 night, or they may be transplanted into the cold- 
 frame until the weather is warm. Such mishaps sel- 
 dom occur, but when they do, they must be met 
 promptly. Few plants will make over four inches of 
 roots before transplanting, and when they reach the 
 old manure they usually spread out without going 
 deeper. 
 
 To return to the construction of the hotbed: Cover 
 the manure with four inches of rich, fine loam, free 
 from rough lumps and stone ; it would better be put 
 through a sand- or coal-sieve if not mellow and fine. 
 Make as level as possible, and place a thermometer in 
 the soil to register the temperature. When it has 
 risen to 90 degrees or above, and then fallen to 75 or 
 70 degrees, the seed may be sown. 
 
 In planting seed it is best to use narrow strips of 
 wood to separate the different varieties. This pre- 
 vents mixing and running together when watered. 
 It is impossible to distinguish between different vari- 
 eties of Asters, Ageratums and Pansies once they have 
 become mixed. Where one lives within reach of a 
 box factory narrow strips of wood admirable for 
 this purpose of uniform width and very thin, may 
 be readily obtained. It is best to begin at the upper 
 right-hand corner with seeds that require the most 
 
Four] cfje 
 
 time to germinate, labelling each section plainly with 
 name, date and the period of germination. 
 
 Flowers that make the tallest growth may be placed 
 against the back with advantage as Cobaea scandens, 
 Ricinus, the Dolichos, Cosmos, and the like; giving 
 them the advantage of the extra light and keeping 
 them from withholding the light from the plants in 
 front of them. 
 
 Coarse seeds should be planted in drills and covered 
 to twice their depth. A furrow may be scratched 
 with a sharp stick from an eighth to a half-inch deep, 
 and the seed sown thinly in it, the earth being replaced 
 and pressed firmly down with a piece of wood. This 
 is important, as it brings the seed in close contact with 
 the earth, and the tiny sprout can lay hold of it at once 
 when germination takes place. Many seeds of weak 
 germinating power are lost when sown in loose, coarse 
 soil by failure to obtain immediate contact with the 
 nourishment contained in it. 
 
 Fine seeds like Petunias, Nicotianas and Ageratums 
 must be sown broadcast in little squares reserved for 
 them. Sow on the surface, press into the soil with a 
 piece of board and merely sift fine sand over. 
 
 A piece of thin wood eight or ten inches long and 
 four or five inches wide, with a handle on one side, will 
 be found very useful to press the soil down quickly and 
 firmly. This should be an adjunct to every well- 
 regulated hotbed. So should a thermometer, hung 
 on the back wall of the hotbed, the bulb level with 
 
36 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 the soil. After the seeds are all sown, if the soil is 
 at all dry, sprinkle carefully with a rubber sprinkler, 
 or a whisk-broom dipped in water and shaken over 
 the bed. Do not use the watering-pot, as it will wash 
 the seed out of the ground. When the plants are up 
 and of some size the watering-pot may be resorted 
 to, but not before. When all the seeds are sown as 
 directed cover with newspapers and close the sash. 
 
 The most careful attention must now be given the 
 hotbed. If the temperature rises above 75 degrees 
 in the warmest part of the day the sash must be raised 
 an inch or two. In doing this, if the wind is cold, it will 
 be best to slip a strip of wood between the sash and 
 frame on the windward side, or protect the opening 
 on the windward side with a bit of carpet. 
 
 When the seeds in any particular plot show a single 
 pair of leaves, remove the paper over that much of 
 the bed, still shading from the sun during the hottest 
 part of the day by a bit of paper on the glass directly 
 over the plants. When the plants appear too thickly 
 in the row, transplant them as soon as they have their 
 second leaves into other rows between the first, or 
 into another hotbed or cold-frame. Encourage vig- 
 orous growth by giving room to develop and as much 
 air and light as possible. 
 
 As soon as the plants are of sufficient size and the 
 weather is warm enough, remove the sash during the 
 day, replacing it with screens made of lath. These 
 screens are easily made by nailing strips of lath, the 
 
Colfcframe 37 
 
 width of the hotbed, to strips of wood the length 
 of the bed. The lath should be set its own width 
 apart, and the nails, of which there should be two in 
 each end, clinched on the under side. Such screens 
 are a necessary part of the hotbed, and will last for 
 years. 
 
 Before transplanting to the open ground these 
 screens should be removed entirely and the plants left 
 exposed to the weather for a few days to harden. 
 Screens of chicken netting may be substituted, if pro- 
 tection from cats, dogs or chickens is needed. If, in 
 the early stages of the hotbed, drops of moisture 
 gather on the glass, the soil is too wet and the sash 
 must be raised to allow the surplus moisture to pass 
 off, avoiding always a cold draught across the bed. 
 
 The cold-frame is simply a frame of boards fitted 
 with sash and placed over a prepared bed of earth. 
 As the bed will be raised slightly above the surface 
 of the soil, the frame should be set over it, shutting 
 out the cold from the sides as well as the top. A cov- 
 ered bed, prepared without heating material, is a cold- 
 frame ; and one in which the heating material is spent 
 is often used as a cold-frame after it has served its 
 purpose as a hotbed earlier in the season, for growing 
 Gloxinias and rooting cuttings during the summer, and 
 in August for sowing Pansy seed for the next sum- 
 mer's blooming. Cold-frames are useful to protect 
 beds of such tender perennials as Tea-roses, Pansies, 
 Canterbury-bells, Foxgloves and Violets. Violets 
 
38 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 may, by this means, be kept in bloom during the win- 
 ter. They are also useful for bringing forward, early 
 in spring, beds of Hyacinths and Narcissi. They 
 should be protected by carpets or mattings at night 
 and during the colder days, and exposed to the heat of 
 the sun on bright days when the soil is not frozen. 
 When it is, they must remain covered and thaw out in 
 the dark, to be aired when the weather is above freez- 
 ing, but draughts across the bed must be avoided, as 
 they will certainly blast any buds there may be. 
 
 The cold-frame in winter must have good drainage, 
 or much damage will ensue from water standing 
 around the roots of plants. The surface of the bed 
 must be above the level of the land outside and a 
 trifle lower at one corner. From this corner a trench 
 should be dug having an outlet, or a deep hole may 
 be dug and filled with broken crockery and stones 
 to carry off all surplus water. 
 
 The sand-box is a receptacle for the summer stor- 
 age of plants which are not to be bedded out. It is 
 also used to prepare plants for winter blooming, and 
 for experiments with novelties in house-plants. It is, 
 finally, the ideal place for rooting cuttings. I have 
 never known a plant capable of being started from 
 cuttings that would not take root in the sand-box. 
 Any shallow box that may be reached across easily 
 is suitable for this purpose ; or a deep box may be cut 
 down to six or eight inches and rendered available, 
 the length depending on the plants to be accommo- 
 
Four] je ani-oj: 39 
 
 dated and the room at disposal. The sand-box should 
 be placed, if possible, in a convenient place on the east 
 side of the house. Elevate on saw-horses, blocks, 
 posts or a regular frame to a height easy to reach 
 when sitting in a chair. Fill nearly full with clean 
 white sand; in this bury the pots nearly to the brims 
 and keep the sand constantly wet. 
 
 Plants that can stand full sunshine as Geraniums, 
 Crotons, Heliotropes, etc. should be placed in front ; 
 those requiring more shade may be in the second row, 
 and those needing the most against the wall. Vines, 
 also, may be trained against the wall, and over the 
 sides of the box, if it is desired to make it beautiful as 
 well as useful. A wooden chair should be placed con- 
 veniently near, and the space underneath may be util- 
 ised for ferns, or the storage of tools and pots. 
 
 Once established, the sand-box will be found one 
 of the most fascinating of spots. Cuttings of all kinds 
 may be thrust into the sand between the pots Gera- 
 niums, Carnations and Roses in front. Gloxinias and 
 Begonias with the leaves laid flat on the sand in the 
 rear will quickly take root in it. No one who cul- 
 tivates a garden, or house-plants, should try to get 
 along without a work table or bench, and this should 
 be situated in some cool, shady spot out of doors. It 
 may be either a large kitchen table or a large packing 
 box, the latter being preferable, perhaps, as affording 
 shelter for the various tools used in working. It 
 should be high enough to work at conveniently when 
 
40 The Flower Garden 
 
 standing up, and a tall stool should be provided for 
 sitting on when desired, to be pushed under the top of 
 table when not in use. There should be a shelf under- 
 neath, sufficiently roomy to hold a supply of pots and 
 flats, and, below it, a box of potting soil and one of 
 fine white sand should be kept ready for use. If the 
 potting soil lies on the ground it will keep moist in 
 the dryest weather. A tin pail of pebbles, broken 
 crockery and charcoal for drainage, and a supply of 
 sphagnum moss should also be kept handy. A trowel, 
 knife, shears, pencils and a stick or, better still, a 
 piece of a broken carving-steel for pushing a plant 
 out of the pot by inserting it in the drainage hole when, 
 for any reason, it is not readily removed by tapping, 
 will greatly lessen the labour of repotting and shifting 
 house-plants in summer. 
 
 A shallow tray, with a bail of wood, large enough 
 to hold a number of pots, will be useful to carry plants 
 from the potting table to the sand-box, and will save 
 many steps. With a well-equipped table to depend on 
 and no litter around the house, one is much more likely 
 to give plants necessary attention promptly. The 
 work then becomes a pleasure instead of a labour to be 
 dreaded. There, too, may be kept the supply for 
 staking plants. The nicest stakes for house-plants are 
 made of Cat-tail stems, any quantity of which may be 
 gathered in the fall and stored away for future use, 
 each stalk furnishing two or three stakes. Being 
 round and smooth they are sightly and just what is 
 needed for Carnations, Freesias and the like. 
 
Chapter FIFE 
 
 of 
 
 BUYING seeds is largely a matter of expe- 
 rience. So glowing are the descriptions 
 in the numerous catalogues sent out that 
 one may easily be led into ordering many 
 worthless novelties, and many desirable 
 ones for which there is neither room nor sufficient 
 knowledge of their wants to grow them successfully. 
 Cheap collections, where one is requested to send ten 
 cents for a catalogue and twelve packages of seeds, are 
 worst of all. 
 
 In buying flower-seeds, as in everything else, one 
 never gets "something for nothing" not even experi- 
 ence, and cheap seeds usually prove a very poor invest- 
 ment; the only safeguard is to buy of trustworthy 
 dealers whose seeds are offered at fair prices. Take, 
 for instance, Pansy seed : one ought not to expect to 
 buy a fine mixture in a full-size packet two hundred 
 and fifty seeds for less than twenty-five cents, while 
 such varieties as Giant Trimardeau and Giant Gassier 
 should be fifteen cents or more, according to the place 
 
 41 
 
42 *The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 of purchase. A few of the old favourites like the 
 Snow Queen may be bought in packets costing from 
 three to five cents and prove good value. But gener- 
 ally speaking, packets selling for less than five cents 
 are to be looked upon with suspicion. Seeds bought 
 at the grocer's or other local dealer's are likely to be 
 old or inferior stock the better class of seedsmen 
 selling direct to the consumer only. At the end of 
 every season seedsmen have a large stock left over. 
 The best concerns destroy these, but the less scrupu- 
 lous put them up as prizes for advertising purposes, 
 or sell them to the local dealers. 
 
 Some varieties of seeds retain vitality for years, like 
 the Morning-glory, while others lose vitality in a few 
 months or weeks, like the perennial Phlox, which must 
 be sown as soon as ripe. From this it can be readily 
 seen how worthless some of the seed carried over from 
 year to year must be. As an experiment, I planted 
 under glass in the house, with more than usual care, 
 a part of one of these trial packages of twelve for a 
 quarter. From five of the packages I got just one 
 plant a Lantana, while from the sixth I grew a num- 
 ber of inferior Petunias. In striking contrast to this 
 I planted, under the same conditions, a packet of 
 Bush Hill Pioneer Cyclamen containing twelve seeds, 
 for which I paid fifty cents, and secured eleven plants, 
 every one of which lived, making four and a half 
 cents apiece for a very choice variety of Cyclamen, 
 while the one little common Lantana cost me ten cents. 
 
$urrf)asmg of ^eetwai 43 
 
 The prices of one firm will frequently be much 
 higher than those of another equally trustworthy, the 
 difference being caused, in most cases, by the number 
 of seeds in the packets. A few firms now state the 
 number of seeds in their price-lists. This should be- 
 come the general practice. There is manifest in- 
 justice in selling packets containing a quantity which 
 is entirely problematical, and often much below what 
 the purchaser has a right to expect. To advertise 
 seeds much under the usual price and reduce the num- 
 ber accordingly is a common practice. 
 
 It is better to buy a few good seeds, and by care- 
 ful cultivation bring the plants as near perfection as 
 possible, than to buy a quantity of cheap seeds. One 
 can join with a friend or neighbour and thus secure a 
 larger variety at less cost than would otherwise be 
 possible. Generally speaking I think it a great mistake 
 to save one's own seed. Few choice varieties are 
 fixed and so tend to run out in two or three seasons. 
 From fine strains of Asters you may save seed that 
 will give good results the first year, but flowers grown 
 from seed saved from these will show more or less 
 centre, so that fresh seed should be purchased every 
 other year at least. As the bees do not visit the Asters 
 so assiduously as other flowers, they are less given 
 to hybridisation and come quite true from seed; the 
 trouble with them being deterioration. The first 
 flower on the plant is usually the best, and should be 
 reserved for seed by tying a string around it and label- 
 
44 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 ling it, if it is desired to keep the varieties separate. 
 Remove all other blooms on the plant, as they fade, 
 allowing only the one selected to ripen. 
 
 Pansy seed should never be saved, as the ripening 
 of it weakens the plant and checks its blooming. 
 Pansies growing in a mixed bed never come true 
 from seed and deteriorate rapidly. Growing Pansy 
 seed is work for the Pansy specialist, but if it must be 
 saved a few plants should be grown in a bed by them- 
 selves and covered with a netting to keep off the bees, 
 which work incessantly over the Pansy bed. Not more 
 than two or three of the finest flowers on a plant should 
 be allowed to seed, all other buds being removed as 
 they form, and the plants kept in a high state of 
 cultivation and supplied with liquid manure at least 
 once a week during the season of seeding. 
 
 Seed may be saved freely from Poppies, as they 
 do not deteriorate appreciably, and the hybridisation 
 constantly going on results in a wonderful variety of 
 form and colouring. The ripening of one or two 
 capsules of seed does not materially affect the period 
 of bloom ; but it is well to mark one blossom on each 
 plant, giving a preference to the terminal blossom 
 on the main stalk, as being usually the finest. Remove 
 all other blossoms as they fade. Perennial Poppies 
 will do better, however, if no seeds are allowed to 
 form. Morning-glories, Cosmos and Verbenas sow 
 themselves better than the gardener can, the 
 plants being much more vigorous than from the hand- 
 
Five] $urrf)astttg of 5>eetu3 
 
 sown seeds. Verbenas mix badly, and are apt to hark 
 back to the original purple strain, or come striped. 
 The seeds of the pink variety come true, I find, and 
 some of the finest pinks I have seen were from self- 
 sown seed. They range in colour through all the 
 shades from pink to deep rose. A fair proportion 
 of white may also be expected, but scarlet and red 
 with a white eye are shy and rarely appear. 
 
 Nasturtiums rarely come true from seed, and if one 
 desires a particular colour or shade, she must either buy 
 fresh seed or grow that particular variety alone. If, 
 however, one simply desires an abundance of bright 
 flowers with a preponderance of yellow, orange and 
 scarlet, it is worth while to save seed, as its vitality is 
 remarkable and every seed may be expected to germi- 
 nate. 
 
 No variety of Petunia can be depended upon when 
 grown in a mixed bed. A particularly fine variety 
 may be lifted and planted on the opposite side of the 
 house, either in the ground or in a window-box, or in 
 a pot in the house. From one exceedingly fine speci- 
 men of the large ruffled variety, lifted and grown in 
 a window-box on the opposite side of the house from 
 the Petunia bed, I saved a single pod of seed from 
 which I grew, the following year, sufficient plants 
 for a large bed. No two of these were alike in colour, 
 but they retained the immense size, ruffled edges, vel- 
 vety texture and beautifully marked throats of the 
 parent strain; some were a velvety crimson, nearly 
 
46 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 black, some white with crimson blotches, and some 
 showed rare shades of grey. 
 
 Sweet Alyssum sows itself, and the trouble is 
 usually not to save but to get rid of it. Candytuft 
 may be saved, but the fewer flowers allowed to seed 
 the better for the continuation of bloom. Where 
 one does not actually need the seed all flowers should 
 be removed as fast as they fade. No one thing will 
 add so much to the appearance of the garden as this, 
 as nothing is more untidy than flowers gone to 
 seed. 
 
 Perennials arc greatly benefited by having the 
 withered flowers removed ; indeed so noticeable is the 
 advantage that some, like the Monkshood, will give 
 a second prop of flowers, and those that will not re- 
 spond in this way will be more robust and bloom 
 more freely the next year. 
 
 Vincas, too, and Hibiscus bloom more freely if not 
 allowed to seed, while Coleus should not even be al- 
 lowed to bloom. Sweet-peas must on no account be 
 permitted to seed unless grown for the purpose. 
 Seed may be gathered from the Thunbergia, Mau- 
 randya, Adlumia, common Morning-glory and Holly- 
 hock without risk of deterioration or harm to the 
 vine. Antirrhinums suffer severely from seed-bear- 
 ing, while the Ricinus, Lantanas and Salvias may be 
 allowed to seed freely. Ageratums look rusty when 
 ripening seed, and it pays to go over them frequently 
 with the shears; this will keep them fresh and full 
 
of ^>eetifii 
 
 47 
 
 of bloom until frost. One flower-head will furnish all 
 the seed one is likely to want. 
 
 All seeds should be gathered when ripe and the 
 foliage dry. They should be exposed to the air in 
 any convenient receptacle, except in the case of the 
 Thunbergias, Balsams, and others having pods which 
 snap open and expel the seeds to a distance. These 
 should be saved in paper bags until perfectly dry, 
 when they may be freed from their husks by sifting 
 or winnowing, and stored in paper bags, envelopes, 
 or boxes. It pays to save the florists' envelopes for 
 this purpose, as they are already labelled. Never put 
 seeds away unlabelled, and it is a good idea to add 
 to the label the date, period of germination, with 
 the colour of the bloom, height, and other data of 
 interest. It is still better to keep a book of such 
 information to which one may refer from year to year. 
 There are frequent doubts concerning some opera- 
 tion the season of starting the hotbed, the time it 
 took a certain class of bulbs to bloom after potting, 
 and the like. In all such cases the note-book offers 
 unimpeachable evidence. 
 
Chapter 
 
 Starting ^>ec&si in jflats 
 
 THERE are many choice seeds, especially 
 in the greenhouse varieties, that can- 
 not be handled successfully in the hot- 
 bed Begonias, Gloxinias, Cinerarias, 
 and Primulas among them. All seeds 
 too fine to be covered do better with house treatment. 
 For starting these the shallow boxes or flats, as they 
 are called, are used. Shallow cigar-boxes, or the 
 larger ones sawed in two and the lid nailed on for 
 the extra bottom, make convenient sizes for the finest 
 seeds. They may be used from year to year if care 
 is taken to store them away, at the end of the season, 
 where they will keep dry and ready for use. 
 
 Holes for drainage should be bored in the bottom 
 and covered with bits of glass or broken crockery. 
 Fill with finely sifted leaf-mould to within an inch of 
 the top and shake the earth smooth and even. A 
 smooth piece of board, three inches wide and as long 
 as the inside width of the flat, with a handle that 
 can be easily grasped, is indispensable for pressing 
 down the soil, both before and after sowing the seeds. 
 
 4 8 
 
^tatting &ttiw in jflate 49 
 
 It should be stored away with the flats at the end of 
 the season. 
 
 Sow very fine seed broadcast, scattering it thinly 
 and evenly over the surface and pressing it into the 
 soil with the wood. It will be better to sow only 
 part of a packet at a time. This will usually give all 
 the plants of a kind wanted at one time, and if suc- 
 cess does not follow this first trial there will be seed 
 left for another sowing. Label plainly with the name 
 and date of sowing, and, when known, the date of 
 germination. Give the soil a thorough watering by 
 setting the flat in lukewarm water until the water 
 rises to the surface, but not above it. When the 
 entire surface is wet, remove the box, draining off 
 all surplus water by tipping on one corner, until the 
 water ceases to run off. Cover the flat with a glass 
 and sheet of white paper and place in a warm place 
 a shelf above a coal-stove or radiator is an ex- 
 cellent location, as it affords the bottom heat so es- 
 sential in starting tender seeds. Seeds while germi- 
 nating need but little light, and a box on a shelf in 
 a living-room may be so screened as not to be un- 
 sightly. A shelf under another, having a light 
 valance, is an ideal place, as the heat strikes more 
 on the bottom of the box, leaving the top cool. 
 Coarse seeds may be sown in rows and lightly cov- 
 ered, or enough fine white sand to merely cover may 
 be sifted over them. Large seed, like the Asparagus 
 Sprengeri may be pressed into the soil to twice their 
 
50 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 depth. Or the soil may first be covered with a thin 
 layer of fine white sand, and the seeds sown on this 
 and covered according to need. Sand counteracts the 
 troublesome tendency to damping off caused by the 
 presence of a minute fungus in the form of a fine 
 moss or thread-like filaments covering the ground. 
 Since this is the result of too much moisture, the 
 remedy is to remove the glass, allowing the surplus 
 moisture to pass off and the dry air to strike the soil 
 for a short time. Care must be taken that the dry- 
 ness does not extend below the surface. Drops of 
 water on the glass indicate too much humidity. The 
 glass should be removed, wiped, and aired. Where 
 the plants are not too close together a crochet-hook 
 or hat-pin may be used to scrape the moss or filament 
 from the earth. This slight disturbance of the soil 
 often serves to destroy the fungus. If the soil 
 threatens to become dry, water carefully with a rub- 
 ber sprinkler. If the dryness begins in the bottom, 
 water as before by setting the flat in a pan of water. 
 
 When the plants have their second leaves give 
 more air and remove the paper; in a day or two set 
 in a light, warm window, screening from the hot sun 
 by placing a piece of white paper between the box and 
 the window glass. Leave the glass partly off the flat 
 to admit air, and when the plants have their first true 
 leaves remove it entirely for a part of the time. 
 
 When large enough to handle, transplant the seed- 
 lings into other flats, setting them one or two inches 
 
^tatting g>eefrg in jflatg s* 
 
 apart according to their growth. When the leaves 
 again touch prick them out in two-inch pots of leaf- 
 mould, placing a piece of crockery over the drainage 
 hole and filling with earth to within half an inch of 
 the top. Plunge the pots into a box of sand in a 
 sunny window until large enough to go out of doors. 
 As soon as the roots fill the pots shift to a size larger, 
 using compost of two parts fibrous loam, four parts 
 leaf-mould, one part old, well-rotted manure, and one 
 part sharp white sand, all thoroughly sifted together. 
 This is called fine compost, while soils that have not 
 been sifted are known as rough compost. To remove 
 sticks, stones, or hard bits of root put through a sand 
 or coal-ash screen. A piece of wire netting slightly 
 gathered up in the hand makes a convenient screen 
 for a small quantity and a box with a netting bottom 
 for larger quantities of earth. 
 
 By the time the plants again need shifting it should 
 be warm enough to bed out all those that are to 
 grow in the open ground, while those intended for 
 the house must be shifted from pot to pot as they 
 outgrow their quarters and be given such special 
 treatment as the individual plants may require, al- 
 ways aiming at as thrifty a growth as possible. Plants 
 intended for winter blooming must have all their buds 
 removed and their branches pinched back according 
 to their summer development. 
 
 Weak liquid manure may be given once a week 
 during summer. Keep the sand in the sand-box wet 
 
52 The Flower Garden 
 
 at all times, but do not over-water. Water thor- 
 oughly and then allow the earth to become nearly 
 dry before watering again; this alternate moisture 
 and dryness allows the wood to ripen and make a 
 stockier growth and one that will stand frequent 
 changes of temperature better than the tender growth 
 induced by over-watering. 
 
Chapter SEVEN 
 
 Crattspiantmjj an* Repotting 
 
 TENDER annuals should not be planted 
 out of doors until all danger of frost 
 is past usually about the twentieth 
 of May in the latitude of Detroit and 
 Chicago, and correspondingly earlier 
 in the latitude of Philadelphia. Corn-planting time 
 is safe in all latitudes. Even hardy annuals, if not 
 too crowded, do better in hotbeds and boxes until 
 the nights are warm. Vines especially suffer from 
 cold nights and cold ground, and often receive a set- 
 back from which they may not recover all summer. 
 
 It is best to prepare the beds a few days in advance 
 that they may settle, as freshly dug soil is too loose 
 for the roots of tender seedlings. 
 
 For solid beds of one flower make straight, paral- 
 lel rows about nine inches apart for plants like Pan- 
 sies, and from twelve to eighteen for Asters and their 
 kind. A most convenient method is to use a board 
 the length of the bed, or as long as convenient, with 
 the distance between the plants marked on it. By 
 
 53 
 
54 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 using a board wide enough to stand or kneel on, step- 
 ping on the bed is avoided. On a round bed the lines 
 may run straight across or they may radiate from the 
 centre, in which case it will be necessary to skip a 
 part of every other row, as the rows run together 
 at the top. 
 
 It is better to transplant on a bright, warm day 
 when the soil is dry than on a damp or wet one. 
 Never transplant when the soil is wet. Many people 
 take advantage of an approaching rain to set out 
 plants, but this is a doubtful practice. If the rain 
 is followed by several days of cloudy weather, it may 
 do, but if followed by hot sunshine the plants will 
 suffer more than if first planted in sunshine in hot, 
 dry weather. 
 
 Only as many plants should be lifted from the hot- 
 bed at one time as may be transplanted before they 
 wilt badly. The plants should be well watered the 
 night before, that they may have a good supply of 
 moisture stored, and that the soil may be moist and 
 cling closely to their roots. 
 
 With the trowel make a hole deep enough to re- 
 ceive the roots without crowding, place the plant, fill 
 the hole with water, and when that has partly disap- 
 peared press the earth firmly about the roots. Work 
 the surface earth fine and smooth about the plant, 
 taking care that it is perfectly dry. If, after setting 
 the bed, wet spots appear, go over them carefully with 
 dry earth. Do not cover or protect in any way; far 
 
Seven] ratUJpatttttg 55 
 
 more plants are lost by so-called protection than by 
 any other form of mismanagement. If the planting 
 has been done properly the roots will keep cool and 
 damp the mulch of earth preventing evapora- 
 tion. This being the case, the tops will take care 
 of themselves if sun and air have free access and the 
 wind can sweep across them. Planting, as it is usually 
 done with the surface left wet, and the air shut 
 away from the top causes the water to evaporate 
 rapidly in the hot air, and the plant is literally cooked 
 to death. The water applied to the roots at planting 
 will usually last for several days. The condition of 
 the soil may be ascertained by removing a portion of 
 the surface. If the earth underneath is found to be 
 drying out too much make a hole on one side of the 
 plant and fill it with water as before, carefully re- 
 placing the mulch of dry earth. Should it rain before 
 the plants have become established the earth must be 
 worked over as soon as it begins to dry that the 
 moisture may be retained. If these directions are 
 carefully carried out the tenderest plants may be 
 transplanted in the hottest sun without injury. Oc- 
 casionally a plant will wilt from exposure before plant- 
 ing, but it will be all right the next day unless it 
 was really injured before being placed in the ground. 
 I repeat the caution to lift no more plants at one time 
 than may be set in the ground before they wilt; to 
 form a fine mulch of dry earth over the soil; to cover 
 plants in no way, and to use no water on the surface 
 
56 The Flower Garden [Chaptei 
 
 for a few days until they have become established, 
 which they will indicate by spreading out their leaves 
 and making ready to grow. This method of planting 
 should be followed in moving plants from one part of 
 the garden to another, in resetting clumps of peren- 
 nials, in bedding out house-plants and those received 
 by mail. Where these last have had part or all of the 
 soil removed it will greatly benefit them to set them 
 in pots until these are filled with roots. 
 
 It is desirable that young plants should be kept 
 growing vigorously all the time, and frequent shift- 
 ing is necessary. Whenever the earth becomes full 
 of roots, or the ball of earth is covered with a network 
 of roots, the plant should be shifted into a pot a size 
 larger. 
 
 "Shifting" means changing the plant to a pot a 
 size larger without disturbing the ball of earth, while 
 "repotting" properly means an entire renewal of the 
 soil, the same sized crock being sometimes used. 
 Shifting may be done at any time, even though the 
 plant be in full bloom, while repotting should be done 
 when the plant is dormant, as it is likely to cause the 
 buds to blast and the foliage to droop. Plants less 
 than a year old are better shifted than repotted 
 especially such as have neither bloomed nor shown 
 any decided tendency to rest. After blooming and 
 resting, if they are in as large a pot as you care to 
 handle, they may be repotted in fresh soil, care being 
 taken not to injure the roots, while dead roots should 
 
seven] ranspatiuig 57 
 
 be removed with the shears. When a plant has out- 
 grown its pot and it is inexpedient to give it a larger 
 one especially if it is not making a very vigorous 
 top growth, part of the roots may be removed by run- 
 ning a knife down on two sides of the plant, which 
 should not be disturbed afterward until the roots 
 begin to grow anew, say, in three or four weeks, when 
 it may be repotted with good rich soil. 
 
 In shifting plants turn them out of the pot with- 
 out disturbing the ball of earth. This may be done 
 by placing the hand over the pot, reversing it and giv- 
 ing it a sharp tap on the edge of the table, which will 
 loosen it. Sometimes, when a plant has become pot 
 bound, it will stick to the sides of the pot, when a 
 stick inserted in the drainage hole against the stone 
 in the bottom will usually loosen it. Having removed 
 the plant from the pot, take out the old drainage 
 material carefully, place in a pot a size or two larger 
 an inch or two of broken charcoal covered with a little 
 sphagnum moss to prevent the earth working into the 
 drainage and clogging it. Fill in as much earth as 
 the difference in the size of pot seems to require, work- 
 ing it well up around the sides with the trowel ; press 
 the old pot into this to make a hole the proper size 
 and shape ; place the plant, press the earth around it, 
 and add more if needed. Water well and return to 
 its place on the shelf or in the sand-box. 
 
 In potting some plants will require to have the soil 
 pressed much more firmly around the roots than 
 
58 'The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 others. Those which make a soft growth, such as 
 Impatiens sultana, various Primulas, Cinerarias, and 
 most tuberous plants, like Begonias and Gloxinias, 
 may be potted rather loosely, that is, with the earth 
 pressed down lightly. Geraniums should be potted 
 much more firmly, while such hard-wooded plants 
 as Roses, Hibiscus, Otaheite Orange and Fuchsias, 
 should be potted very hard indeed. Many failures in 
 plant growing may be traced to neglect of this rule. 
 
 Cuttings of common house-plants are so easily 
 rooted that it seems almost superfluous to give direc- 
 tions for handling them. Geraniums, Petunias, 
 Coleus, and the like will rarely fail to root if stuck 
 in the ground by the side of the plant; they will do 
 still better if placed in the sand-box. On the whole I 
 prefer to set them in small pots of earth plunged in 
 the sand-box and kept moist, as by this method they do 
 not suffer the shock of disturbance when ready to pot 
 off. 
 
 A word about the selection of cuttings will not be 
 amiss, as failure to choose wisely often results in the 
 loss of the cutting, or in a poor or straggly plant. 
 Quick, tender growths are not suitable for cuttings, 
 except in the case of the Chinese Hibiscus, where the 
 extreme tips are used for rooting; hard or woody 
 growths are equally undesirable. The part where 
 the new wood begins to harden and will break with 
 a snap is best. No cutting should be over two or 
 three inches long. The little, stubby side branches 
 
Seven] tattSpatttttg 59 
 
 on Geraniums are best, and as soon as growth begins 
 these should be pinched back to within an inch of the 
 ground, or to the lowest buds on the stalks; this in- 
 sures a stocky plant, branching close to the ground. 
 Heliotropes do not root readily and should be started 
 in wet sand in full sunshine and covered with a glass, 
 which should be lifted occasionally to allow the sur- 
 plus moisture to pass off, or in a bottle of water hung 
 in a sunny window. Rose cuttings are so easily and so 
 quickly rooted in the sand-box that it seems a waste of 
 time to try any other way. In cutting Roses for 
 bouquets, during summer, one should be generous 
 with stems, cutting down to a robust leaf-bud in the 
 axil of a leaf. After the Roses have faded the stems 
 may be used for cuttings, dividing them into as many 
 lengths as the buds allow, leaving two or three buds 
 to a cutting. By this method one may have a large 
 number of young Rose plants with little trouble and 
 no expense. Coleus cuttings are quickly rooted by 
 putting them in a glass dish filled with water and set 
 in a warm place. If in the fall it is desired to save 
 choice varieties growing on the lawn, large cuttings 
 may be taken of the finest plants. Grouped together 
 in a bowl, they are sightly and root readily. As the 
 plants begin to grow they are likely to lose their large 
 leaves the new growths starting at the axils of these 
 push them off injuring the appearance of the plant. 
 They should be potted off as soon as possible, the tops 
 pinched out, and the plant encouraged to grow vigor- 
 
60 T*he Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 ously. To this end a warm, even temperature is 
 necessary, sudden chills being fatal. 
 
 Gloxinias may be started in the sand-box by laying 
 a leaf flat on the sand, in partial shade, covering the 
 stem end with the sand. A callus will soon form, 
 followed presently by a bulb. This may be as large 
 as a hazel-nut before top growth begins. When tiny 
 leaves appear the plant may be lifted and potted and 
 grown until it blooms. It is not necessary to rest 
 Gloxinias either from seeds or cuttings before they 
 have bloomed. Begonias and Achimenes are rooted 
 in the same way. Umbrella-plants are started by 
 placing face down in a dish of water in the sun. 
 Rubber and any other hard-wooded plants may be 
 rooted by making an incision in the under side of 
 a branch near a leaf, at a point where the wood ha 
 begun to harden, and wrapping the wound in a quan< 
 tity of sphagnum moss, kept constantly wet. A 
 thread should be tied to the branch on the side farthest 
 from the main stalk and attached to a limb above 
 to hold the cut slightly open that it may quickly be- 
 come calloused. After, a time roots will make their 
 appearance through the moss, when the branch may 
 be removed and potted. A method sometimes em- 
 ployed, when it is desired to save the crown of a 
 plant which has a leggy or unshapely undergrowth, 
 is to partly sever the stem at the point at which it 
 is desired to root the plant, cutting out a wedge-shaped 
 piece and packing with sphagnum moss. Or a small 
 

Seven] tattSipatttmjJ 6l 
 
 flower-pot, divided in halves, may be fitted around 
 the cut, the bottom of the pot resting on a lower limb 
 or other support, and filled with earth or sand kept 
 constantly moist. 
 
 Cuttings liable to decay, as are some of the Cacti, 
 may often be saved by tying them to a bit of wood 
 and inserting that in the ground so that the end of 
 the cutting just rests on the surface. In this way the 
 air will reach and harden it so that a callus can form. 
 Without the formation of the callus the sap escapes 
 and the branch withers or decays. When the callus 
 forms the imprisoned sap goes to the formation of 
 roots. Some plants form more pronounced calluses 
 than others particularly the Gloxinia and Rose. 
 
 Layering is another form of rooting cuttings, and 
 is especially valuable for Carnations, Honeysuckles, 
 and plants whose branches grow near the ground or 
 are supple enough to be bent down below its level. A 
 cut should be made in the under side of a branch just 
 below a joint, the cut portion brought down below 
 the ground to insure moisture, and bent sufficiently to 
 spread the cut somewhat, or it may be laid on the 
 surface and a stone placed at the point of the cut. 
 From a long branch like the Honeysuckle a number 
 of cuttings may be started at once by notching the 
 branch in several places and pegging it down, making 
 the ground higher between each notch that there may 
 be sufficient bend to the branch to keep the cut open. 
 
Chapter EIGHT 
 
 RAISING house-plants from seed is a 
 most fascinating work, and it is also 
 the most economical way of obtaining 
 a number of choice plants, as a packet 
 of seeds may be purchased for the 
 price of a single plant. A package of Geranium seed 
 may give a dozen plants, while a packet of Gloxinias 
 or Cinerarias may give a hundred or more the fine 
 seed germinating more freely than the large. 
 
 Mixed seeds also give a variety, no two plants being 
 identical in bloom, and, what is most important, seed- 
 lings always bloom, while plants from cuttings are 
 often stubborn in this respect and sometimes refuse 
 to bloom at all, owing probably to the check received 
 at propagation. A cutting taken from a vigorous 
 plant, rooting quickly, and continuing to grow, is 
 quite certain to bloom while the reverse is the case 
 with one slow to root and slow to start into growth 
 after rooting. The seedling, meeting with no check, 
 blossoms in the natural course, and it has the ad- 
 
 6* 
 
vantage of growing from the start in the same atmos- 
 pheric conditions, and does not suffer the violent 
 change from the moist, warm air of the greenhouse 
 into the dryer, more uneven temperature of the living- 
 room. 
 
 By sowing seed one obtains a number of plants with 
 the same season of bloom, making a finer appearance 
 than mixed plants blooming at different times. A half 
 dozen Cinerarias or Calceolarias in full bloom is a 
 sight to gladden the heart of the gardener. 
 
 In giving the following cultural details I have 
 selected those seeds which are always carried in stock 
 and may be depended upon to give good results in the 
 hands of the amateur. Unless some one particular 
 colour or marking is desired it is better to purchase 
 the mixed seed selecting always the finest, or "extra 
 choice mixed," which will also be the highest priced. 
 Never buy cheap seed for house-plants. Exception 
 may, perhaps, be made in the case of Primroses, which 
 are more inclined to come true, and it is, for this 
 reason, better to purchase any particular colours one 
 may wish in separate packets. Some seedsmen now 
 put up expensive seeds in whole and half-sized packets, 
 and the half packets will usually give all the plants 
 needed of one kind. The mystery of tint and colour, 
 only to be revealed at blossom time, is one of the 
 greatest charms of growing mixed seedlings. 
 
 The Abutilons, or Flowering Maples, if set going 
 any time before April will flower the same season. 
 
64 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Start in the house in flats, and when large enough to 
 handle transplant into tiny pots in a hotbed or sunny 
 window and grow on until time to plant in the open 
 ground, shifting as required. They may also be 
 started in the hotbed, or in a protected bed in the 
 open ground when the trees are in bloom. Set from 
 one to two feet apart, according as a close hedge or 
 fine specimen plants are required. The new California 
 Abutilons present a great diversity of form and colour 
 there are beautiful drooping bells, gay little para- 
 chutes, flowers crinkled like crape or shining like satin, 
 some so full as to appear double. They should be 
 cultivated frequently if grown in the open ground 
 and potted before the nights become cold, as a chill 
 is often as harmful as frost, and plants so exposed are 
 likely to lose their foliage. Plants intended for winter 
 blooming should be lifted while the days and nights 
 are still warm. 
 
 Asparagus plumosus nanus and A. Sprengeri (em- 
 erald feather) may be started any time in the late 
 winter or early spring. The seeds are large and 
 should be planted in rows an inch apart each way, 
 pressing them into the soil a quarter of an inch and 
 covering them over. They germinate in about twenty- 
 one days, and require no especial care other than to 
 be kept moist and fairly warm. When an inch high 
 transplant to thumb-pots, using the fine compost. 
 Shift as often as necessary; all Asparagus especially 
 the Sprengeri are greatly benefited by frequent re- 
 
potting. Spray frequently, keep moist always, and 
 give liquid manure once a week while growing. 
 
 A. Sprengeri grows rapidly and is the most easily 
 managed of all varieties. It needs, however, abun- 
 dant root room, and where that is restricted must be 
 given some kind of plant-food. It is the plant most 
 used for hanging-baskets. A basket of three two- 
 year-old seedlings is a thing of beauty, throwing off 
 wonderful fronds even in the dry air of a sitting- 
 room heated with a coal-stove. They should be given 
 a chance to rest during the summer by setting in a 
 cool, shady place, watering sparingly. When the 
 plant shows signs of renewed growth repot, giving a 
 larger pot if necessary, or, if two or three plants have 
 been growing in one basket they may be separated 
 and given more room. An elongated tuber is formed 
 on the roots, which stores nourishment like the 
 nodules on the Clematis and Clover roots. It is use- 
 less for propagating purposes, and should not be dis- 
 turbed. A basket or a pot on a bracket or pedestal is 
 the only way in which to grow A. Sprengeri success- 
 fully, while A. plumosus nanus succeeds best in deep 
 pots, as it sends its roots far down, often pushing 
 its crown well above the soil in this way. A. plumosus 
 sends out fronds several feet long, and is best adapted 
 for growing on strings. A deep pot on a north or 
 east window-sill suits it well, provided it is not too 
 cool, and fine spool-wire makes a neat support and is 
 almost invisible. 
 
66 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 The seeds of Rex and other Begonias are so fine as 
 to look like dust. They should be sown on the surface 
 of the soil, in flats in the house, in February or March, 
 and an even temperature maintained. They germi- 
 nate in eight or ten days, and the greatest care is re- 
 quired to keep the tender seedlings from damping off 
 or drying out. The tiny plants appear first as a vague 
 green bloom on the face of the soil, and a magnifying 
 glass is necessary to show that each infinitesimal green 
 point is possessed of a pair of leaves. From this time 
 on it is a delight to watch the development of char- 
 acter in the leaf quite tiny plants showing different 
 markings. I have never raised two Rex Begonias 
 exactly alike. When the little plants are large enough 
 to handle prick them out into other flats, setting them 
 an inch apart each way. When an inch high put into 
 two-inch pots of leaf-mould, and plunge the pots in a 
 pan of wet sand in a cool, north window where bulbs 
 are growing, if possible, as the constant evaporation 
 from these keeps the air moist. This is an important 
 consideration in the culture of Begonias, and in winter 
 water should be kept on stove, radiator or register to 
 supply moisture. Among the fine bedding, fibrous- 
 rooted Begonias the new Vulcan, a fiery scarlet; Ver- 
 non, a deep red ; Erfordii, a soft pink, and the dwarf 
 Bijou are the best. By starting these during January 
 and February in flats in the house they may be bedded 
 out in early summer. If planted in the house in 
 January, transplanted to flats, and thence to the hot- 
 
bed when it is emptied after the 2Oth of May, and 
 partly shaded, they will be fine, robust plants by 
 August, and may be used to replace the Pansies when 
 it is not desired to carry these through the summer. 
 If one has a sufficient number of pots, pot and plunge 
 in the hotbed and they will not be set back by trans- 
 planting, but they must be plunged to the rim. They 
 should be shifted when necessary, duly mulched, and 
 not allowed to dry out. 
 
 Nothing finer than the tuberous Begonias can be 
 desired either for bedding or for pot culture. The 
 single are perhaps showier for bedding, but the double 
 are handsomer for pot culture. They do admirably 
 bedded out in a shady corner, or in pots in the sand- 
 box. Peat, or a compost of two parts loam, two parts 
 leaf-mould, and one part each of sand and old, well- 
 rotted manure suits all varieties of Begonias. In set- 
 ting out the tuberous Begonia it is well to mulch the 
 bed with lawn clippings. Water thoroughly once a 
 day, and, if very dry, or at all exposed to the sun, 
 twice a day. So really wonderful are their blossoms, 
 and so long and freely do they bloom, that they well 
 repay a little extra care and protection. When frosty 
 nights come the tuberous Begonias must be lifted, 
 potted and kept indoors until they have completed 
 their season of growth. Then water should be gradu- 
 ally cut off and the pots stored away in a dark, warm 
 closet until spring, or if there are too many Begonias 
 to pot they may be ripened off at once by putting on a 
 
68 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 tray of damp earth with the roots covered, and allow- 
 ing them to dry gradually. When dry the tubers may 
 be removed, wrapped separately in tissue-paper and 
 stored in a dry, fairly warm place a shelf in a closet 
 or a drawer. 
 
 Probably no greenhouse flower is as little known 
 or repays acquaintance as royally as the Calceolaria. 
 Of infinite variety, its showy purse-shaped flowers 
 range from a rare pure white through all the shades 
 of pale lemon, orange, and scarlet to a deep, rich, vel- 
 vety cardinal. It is one of the most easily cultivated 
 of house-plants. The seed is fine like the Begonia, 
 is handled in the same way, and germinates in eight or 
 ten days. Shift as often as the pot fills with roots, 
 using a size larger each time and disturbing the roots 
 as little as possible. Rather more loam than leaf- 
 mould is used in potting them. Keep in an east window 
 in winter, where there is good morning sunlight and 
 a temperature of at least 60 degrees. The air should 
 be kept moist, either from blossoming bulbs or dishes 
 of water on the stove. In a dry atmosphere it is liable 
 to attacks of red spider, which greatly mar the foliage. 
 The remedy or preventive measure is fresh air and 
 moisture. Keep the soil moist but not wet. When 
 the flower-buds appear slightly increase the supply 
 of water and give a little manure once a week. The 
 large felty leaves grow so thick and close that when 
 the buds appear, to prevent injury from lack of light 
 it may be necessary to remove a few leaves. If kept 
 
Eight] House-plants ^ 
 
 growing vigorously and shifted frequently, plants 
 should be in five-inch pots by February and coming 
 into bloom. When in full bloom it is well to remove 
 to a cool room, where the blossoms will last for weeks. 
 Cuttings may be taken when they are through bloom- 
 ing, but I think it best to begin afresh each year with 
 seed. 
 
 Cinerarias make fine, large plants, as broad as they 
 are high, their rich, velvety leaves showing on the un- 
 der side wonderful colourings of green and lavender, 
 purple and plum. The large heads of single daisy- 
 like flowers show many shades of white, lavender, 
 crimson, purple, and maroon. Most of the varieties 
 have a dark eye and are sharply margined with some 
 contrasting color. The seed is fine and is simply 
 pressed into the soil. It germinates in from five to 
 seven days, and requires little heat. As the plants are 
 rather difficult to carry through the hot weather it is 
 better to defer sowing until August. Their growth is 
 rapid if given a cool, moist atmosphere, but a draught 
 is most injurious and care must be taken never to over- 
 water them. They like a moist, but never wet, soil, fre- 
 quently stirred when there is any sign of damping off. 
 They may be carried through an unusually hot spell 
 in a cool north or east cellar window, always avoiding 
 draughts. In winter an east window suits them best, 
 with abundant room to develop their leaves. They 
 are an exceedingly ornamental plant even without the 
 flowers. The shady side of the sand-box is the best 
 
70 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 place for them in summer. They need frequent shift- 
 ing, and by winter should be in five-inch pots. After 
 the buds appear give liquid manure once a week. The 
 utmost care must be taken to guard against aphides 
 or green plant-lice, which are absolutely fatal if al- 
 lowed to gain any foothold. The prevention is plenty 
 of fresh air and tobacco-dust sprinkled on the leaves, 
 which mars their beauty. The remedy dipping in 
 water heated to about 135 degrees, or brushing off the 
 lice and killing them. 
 
 Carnations are the most easily grown of all desir- 
 able house-plants. If planted in drills in the hotbed 
 in April, or in the open ground when the trees are in 
 leaf, they will bloom in about four months. For out- 
 door blooming the Marguerite Carnations are usually 
 selected, and the Giant of California is a new and 
 choice variety of this popular strain. The seed is 
 sown an eighth of an inch deep, the plants appearing 
 in from five to seven days. When large enough to 
 handle transplant into fresh rows in hotbed or flats, 
 setting them an inch or two apart each way. When 
 they are two or three inches high prick off into pots 
 filled with three parts good loam and one of leaf- 
 mould and plunge back into the hotbed. When the 
 weather is warm enough set them in well-prepared 
 beds of loam, enriched with a liberal quantity of well- 
 rotted manure, planting them a foot apart each way. 
 Cultivate frequently during summer to keep them free 
 from weeds. A little soot and ashes added to the soil 
 
Eight] House-plants ?' 
 
 between the rows will heighten the colour of flowers 
 and foliage and add stiffness to the flower-stems. The 
 ashes will also counteract the tendency to burst the 
 calyx, so troublesome in the Carnation. Plants in- 
 tended for winter blooming should have all the buds 
 removed during the summer, up to the first of Sep- 
 tember. 
 
 Only a few flowers will be obtained in the open 
 ground the first year, but if the plants are protected 
 during the winter they will bloom freely the second 
 season. While blooming no seed should be allowed 
 to form, and if size and quality are desired more than 
 profusion of bloom, all but the terminal buds on each 
 stalk should be removed. This is the method em- 
 ployed by florists to produce their long-stemmed beau- 
 ties. Dig in the second summer a little old manure 
 between the rows and sprinkle ashes there. A mulch 
 of two or three inches of lawn clippings between the 
 plants will hold the moisture so that cultivation will 
 not be necessary. Fresh Carnation seed should be 
 sown each spring, that there may always be blossom- 
 ing plants and the bed made perpetual. Carnations 
 will not stand the second winter, hence the need of 
 young plants to renew the bed. 
 
 If it is desired to perpetuate any variety cuttings 
 may be taken, or the plants may be increased by layer- 
 ing. Branches from each plant may be pegged down 
 between the rows, equal distances apart, severed from 
 the old plants when sufficiently established, and al- 
 
72 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 lowed to remain when the old plants are removed in 
 the fall or following spring. The bed will, in this 
 way, perpetuate itself; but cuttings from the same 
 plants deteriorate in two or three years, and fresh 
 seed should be sown every two years at least. 
 
 In growing winter Carnations for the house shift 
 them as often as the growth of the plant requires, 
 using three parts loam, one part leaf-mould, and one 
 part each of sharp sand and old manure. When ready 
 to bloom they should be in five- or six-inch pots. They 
 require an atmosphere cooler than that of the ordinary 
 living-room. A south window away from direct fire, 
 where the temperature stands at 50 or 55 degrees, is 
 best. Water thoroughly, but allow the soil to nearly 
 dry out before watering again. If possible sprinkle 
 the foliage every day and watch carefully for green fly 
 and red spider; though there is less danger of their 
 appearance in a cool room than in the hot, dry air of 
 the living-room. When the flower-stalks appear they 
 will need support, which may be supplied by placing 
 three or four sticks or cat-tails at the side of the pot 
 and twisting strings around them, back and forth, 
 forming a frame around the plant. There is an ex- 
 cellent Carnation frame on the market, costing a few 
 cents, which is similar but much neater. Stakes thrust 
 into the ground near the crown of a plant are apt to 
 injure it, and must be used carefully if at all; the 
 finer the point on the stake the less damage done. 
 Should green lice or flies appear syringe the plants 
 

 
 WHEN TWO OR THREE INCHES HIGH, TRANSPLANT CAR 
 NATIONS INTO POTS 
 
 
 AN EASILY MADE CARNATION SUPPORT 
 
Eight] oue^pan 73 
 
 with tobacco tea, or fumigate with tobacco, leaving 
 them in the smoke long enough to insure success. Or 
 the plant may be dipped in hot water at about 130 
 degrees; this will kill all insects or eggs. 
 
 Cyperus, or Umbrella-plant, may be easily raised 
 from cuttings, but it is sometimes desirable to have a 
 number of plants for aquatic gardening, and growing 
 from seed is an economy. The seeds should be sown 
 in flats and kept warm ; they germinate in about ten 
 days, coming up very freely. As many as three hun- 
 dred plants have been secured from one packet. Prick 
 the seedlings out into larger flats as soon as they are 
 big enough to handle, and when two or three inches 
 high pot them off into two- or three-inch pots of muck, 
 plunging into wet sand and keeping constantly moist. 
 Shift them as the pots fill with roots, and by the time 
 the plants are in four-inch pots the water should be 
 kept standing in the saucer all the time. When they 
 attain proper size they should be grown in a jardiniere 
 or other vessel holding water, or else the pot in which 
 they grow should be plunged in water. The Cyperus, 
 being a semi-aquatic plant, cannot have too much 
 water; the lack is quickly shown by the leaf-tips turn- 
 ing brown. Two plants kept fairly wet in pots, but 
 plainly suffering, so were plunged into a lily-tank; in a 
 few days the roots had pressed to the surface in search 
 of water, and hung, a perfect fringe, over the edge 
 of the pots. The effect on the tops was as pro- 
 nounced the crown quickly sending up lush green 
 
74 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 umbrellas in striking contrast to the discolouration of 
 the original plants. There are two varieties of the 
 Umbrella-plant a dwarf, growing not more than 
 eighteen inches high, and a tall variety growing three 
 or four feet; the former is prettier for table decora- 
 tions, while the latter is more effective for pedestals 
 in halls and drawing-rooms. Remove all weak or 
 spindly umbrellas and all discoloured ones; it is also 
 well to remove the flowers, as seeding injures the plant. 
 Cyclamen may be started in flats or in a cool hotbed 
 from January to March, pressing the seed into the soil 
 about twice their depth. They must be kept moist, 
 not wet, all the time. They do not require as much 
 heat as the Calceolaria, but the temperature must be 
 kept as even as possible. The seed germinates in from 
 two to four weeks, according to its vitality. It is best 
 to start them in large flats and let them grow on un- 
 disturbed. About the last of May remove them to a 
 cold-frame on the east side of the house, disturbing 
 the roots as little as possible, and setting the plants 
 about eight inches apart each way. Keep the soil 
 moist and mellow by frequent cultivation, or by 
 mulching it with sphagnum moss or lawn clippings. 
 When the plants have attained some size give weak 
 liquid manure once a week, pouring it in a shallow 
 trench between the rows, that it may not touch the 
 bulbs or foliage. Treated in this way they should 
 be ready to bloom by winter; if grown in pots they 
 will not bloom until the second season. When cold 
 
75 
 
 weather comes lift the plants and put in four- or five- 
 inch pots, according to size, using good garden loam 
 and one-fourth the quantity of old, well-rotted ma- 
 nure. They should be grown in a cool east room and 
 syringed daily. 
 
 In the spring after blooming withhold water gradu- 
 ally, giving no more than will keep the roots from 
 drying out, and set them in a cool, shady place during 
 the summer the rear of the sand-box is best, where 
 other growths will protect them from the sun. In 
 continuous wet weather they should be turned on 
 their sides or otherwise protected from extreme moist- 
 ure. When they show an inclination to grow again, 
 if they are in large enough pots, remove as much of 
 the top-soil as possible without disturbing the roots, 
 and replace it with fresh, rich earth and old manure. 
 If the plants are crowded with roots remove them 
 into pots one or two sizes larger. Give them a good 
 watering and set in a somewhat lighter and warmer 
 position. Cyclamen bulbs, like the Amaryllis, should 
 not be allowed to dry out entirely, as this destroys 
 the roots, and when the top growth starts in advance 
 of the root growth, as is usual, the plant will die from 
 insufficient nourishment. Florists frequently send out 
 dry bulbs with flower-buds half an inch long and no 
 sign of roots; such bulbs rarely amount to anything. 
 When obliged to start a dry bulb, it is better to sink 
 it half way in the soil and cover with sphagnum moss. 
 Set it in a dry, cool place, and examine it from time 
 
76 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 to time that it may not be kept back longer than neces- 
 sary. The starting of leaves is a fair indication of 
 root growth, as the premature growth is usually of 
 buds. 
 
 Geraniums are as easily raised as Carnations in- 
 deed, it seems only necessary to put them in the ground 
 and await results. In the spring sow the seed in drills 
 in hotbeds or flats, covering with an eighth of an inch 
 of soil. The plants should appear in from ten to 
 fifteen days, and if they do not stand too closely may 
 be allowed to grow on until they have two or three 
 leaves. If mixed seeds are sown of the fancy-leaved, 
 the scented, the zonale and the Lady Washington, the 
 development of the several kinds will afford a fasci- 
 nating study. 
 
 Care should be taken to save the more delicate-look- 
 ing seedlings, as these will give the choicest varieties ; 
 the more robust plants among the zonales indicate a 
 retrogression toward the original type, which has 
 scarlet blooms. All choice new Geraniums are pro- 
 duced by seeds from hybridised flowers. Pot off the 
 last of May in three-inch pots, using good garden 
 loam and well-rotted manure. Pot them rather firmly 
 and plunge into the sand-box in full sunshine. Water 
 thoroughly and allow the soil to become dry before 
 watering again ; this tends to harden the new growth 
 and makes the plants stocky. Nip out the top of the 
 plants, forcing them to break or make new branches 
 near the ground. The nearer the ground a Geranium 
 
n 
 
 branches the better plant it will make. Pinch off the 
 shoots as they appear, allowing them to grow only 
 three or four inches long. Remove all buds that ap- 
 pear before fall and shift to larger pots if needed, 
 though Geraniums do not need as much pot room 
 when blooming as many other flowers. Give liquid 
 manure once a week after the buds appear before 
 that time the use of fertilisers encourages the produc- 
 tion of foliage rather than of flowers. 
 
 Zonales should bloom by February and Pelargoni- 
 ums by March or April the first year. They should 
 be watered more freely when in bloom. Geraniums 
 should be grown close to the glass to give best results. 
 In prolonged cloudy weather the buds will blast and 
 the new growth look sickly in spite of all care. Pe- 
 largoniums are very satisfactory when raised from 
 seed, showing great diversity of colour and markings. 
 When they have finished blooming in the spring cut 
 them back freely, using the cuttings for new plants. 
 The old plants should be set in the shade to rest and 
 watered sparingly. At the end of that time they may 
 be brought into the sunlight or plunged into open 
 ground and encouraged to grow freely. Removing 
 a portion of the leaves at this time every other one, 
 for instance will cause new shoots to break at the 
 axils of the leaves, and every new shoot means new 
 blossom points. By the middle of September the 
 plants should be lifted, cut back to the point where 
 the wood begins to harden, and given a warm, sunny 
 
78 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 window. Cuttings started in spring, if shifted, kept 
 growing and pinched back occasionally, should be in 
 splendid condition for early spring blooming. In 
 growing Geraniums never lose sight of the fact that 
 stocky, many-branched plants give flowers in abun- 
 dance ; tall, spindly plants the reverse. A Geranium 
 should always be as broad as it is high to be at its 
 best. Ivy Geraniums need extra care to keep them 
 low and stocky. Water sparingly and give abundant 
 sunshine if you wish these to bloom. 
 
 Geranium seeds come up very irregularly, so that 
 it is well not to disturb the ground for some time after 
 the proper season of germination has passed. In this 
 way many extra plants are secured. 
 
 L 
 
 Gloxinias 
 
 IKE all fine seeds the Gloxinias often give a sur- 
 prising number of plants from a single packet. 
 The seed is sown on the surface of small flats in the 
 house and the plants appear in about ten days. They 
 are very tender at first and must be protected from 
 undue heat, moisture, cold or draughts. They may be 
 potted when large enough and plunged in the shady 
 side of the sand-box, in a cold-frame, on the east side 
 of the house, or in a shady corner in the open ground, 
 where they will be protected from the sun during the 
 hottest part of the day. Keep the soil constantly 
 moist; a light mulch of sphagnum moss or lawn clip- 
 
f|ouse=plants 79 
 
 pings will keep it in proper condition. Avoid wetting 
 the foliage and as far as possible touching it. The 
 stems of both leaf and blossom are very brittle and the 
 slightest blow may deprive one of a cherished blos- 
 som. For this reason I like to grow them by them- 
 selves and use a mulch instead of cultivation. So 
 much of the beauty of the plant depends upon the 
 perfection of the foliage that every effort should be 
 made to preserve it. In setting or potting Gloxinias 
 the crown of the bulb should be above the earth, the 
 soil should slope to the rim of the pot, that no water 
 may settle about the crown and rot it. The plants 
 may remain in the hotbed or other quarters until the 
 approach of frost, when they must be shifted into 
 larger pots and given a position in an east window 
 with plenty of light. Gloxinias, if kept growing vig- 
 orously and shifted frequently, should bloom the fol- 
 lowing season. Some florists advise resting the bulb 
 the first winter, but this, I think, is a mistake; the 
 plant has done nothing to require a rest, nor has the 
 bulb gained sufficient size to live without nourish- 
 ment for any length of time, so that drying off is 
 likely to result disastrously. After the Gloxinia has 
 completed its period of bloom water should be grad- 
 ually withheld and the foliage allowed to ripen. 
 The bulbs may then be set away in their pots in a 
 warm, dry place, until the following spring; or, if 
 grown in hotbeds, they may be dried off by with- 
 holding water until the foliage ripens, when they may 
 
8o The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 be lifted, wrapped in cotton-wool or tissue-paper, and 
 stored in a dry, fairly warm place during the winter. 
 
 Heliotropes 
 
 ARE more easily raised from seed than from cut- 
 tings, which require special care. Several of 
 the new varieties, like Lemoine's seedlings, give ex- 
 ceptionally large and early flowers, ranging in colour 
 from pure white through all the shades of lavender, 
 purple, and blue to deep indigo. If wanted for win- 
 ter blooming the seed may be sown any time during 
 the spring, but for bedding out it should be sown in 
 February or March, and the plants duly potted off 
 and plunged in a box of sand in a warm, sunny win- 
 dow, or a hotbed, until it is time to bed them out 
 in the open ground. The compost should contain a 
 large proportion of leaf-mould three- fourths mould 
 and one-fourth loam and sharp sand. 
 
 The seeds of Heliotrope must be kept merely moist, 
 never wet and never allowed to dry out, or they will 
 not sprout; keeping the soil just on the verge of dry- 
 ing out, yet never allowing it to do so, is the whole 
 secret of starting Heliotrope from seeds. It is best 
 to sow the seed in moist soil to avoid the necessity 
 of watering afterward, as is done with other seeds; 
 if the soil is just wet enough to be crumbly, neither 
 wet nor sticky, and can be kept so, they will prosper. 
 Cover the seed lightly with white sand and remove 
 
Eight] oufie-patt 8i 
 
 the glass if any appreciable moisture appears any- 
 thing more than a fine mist. It germinates in from 
 fifteen to twenty days, and the plants require no spe- 
 cial care beyond good soil, warmth, and plenty of 
 sunshine with frequent waterings. When grown as 
 house-plants they should be showered once or twice 
 a day to prevent the inroads of the red spider their 
 worst enemy. 
 
 There is no more desirable bedding plant than the 
 Heliotrope, and the more freely it is cut by removing 
 generous portions of stem with the blossom the more 
 freely it will bloom. It is admirable for replacing 
 Pansies and may be grown on in the hotbed until the 
 Pansy's day is past. Where there is not enough 
 Heliotrope for large bedding operations, purple Ager- 
 atum may be combined with the Heliotrope with ex- 
 cellent effect; this is a method often employed in the 
 city parks, and when judiciously done one scarcely 
 notices that the beds are not all Heliotrope. Plants 
 may be taken up in the fall and cut back for winter 
 blooming. Blossoms always form on the terminals of 
 the branches. 
 
 Lantanas 
 
 ARE hard-wooded, shrubby plants, the leaves 
 more or less rough and prickly. The colours 
 range from pure white through various shades of 
 lemon to orange, red, a new bright scarlet, and the 
 rosy lavender of the Weeping Lantana. The seed in 
 
82 T/ie Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 its immature state is incased in a green pulp or berry, 
 changing to blue as it ripens, and consists of a little 
 nut with several kernels, so that one is sometimes sur- 
 prised with two or more plants from what seems to 
 be a single seed. The seed may be started in the 
 house, or in the hotbed early in the spring; sowing 
 in drills one-quarter of an inch deep. It germinates 
 in from twelve to fifteen days, but soaking in warm 
 water, for a few hours before planting, will hasten 
 its appearance. They require about the same treat- 
 ment as Geraniums, but should be shifted oftener and 
 given plenty of water. As soon as the plants are four 
 or five inches high transplant them to a tobacco pail, 
 or some large wooden receptacle containing a com- 
 post of muck, loam, and old manure, or muck alone, 
 and place in full morning sunshine, out of doors. 
 Thus managed I have grown, from seed sown in 
 March, plants that measured nine feet or more in 
 circumference by September and were a mass of 
 bloom all summer long, the blossoms defying all ef- 
 forts at counting. 
 
 Grown in this way, with an abundance of roots 
 and top room, rich soil, sun, and water, no better 
 ornament could be desired for the porch or steps; 
 but I do not think it a desirable plant for the house, 
 as the hot, dry air causes it to drop its leaves, and it 
 is almost sure to be attacked by the red spider. It is 
 better to start fresh plants each spring and let them 
 go when frost comes. 
 
Eight] 
 
 Lantanas make fine hedgerows between house lots 
 or for defining different portions of the grounds. 
 They should be planted in rich ground two and one- 
 half feet apart. 
 
 The new Weeping Lantana is the most charming 
 member of the family. It is of much more slender 
 growth than the rest and inclined to be pendulous, 
 or weeping. Its delightfully fragrant flowers are pro- 
 duced in round heads the size of a half-dollar at the 
 axil of every leaf and show a lovely rosy-lilac hue. 
 If planted in the open ground the Weeping Lantana 
 quickly covers a considerable area, presenting a solid 
 sheet of bloom throughout the summer. It will 
 bloom freely in the house if given a warm, sunny 
 window, abundant room, and showered daily to keep 
 back the red spider, or dipped occasionally in hot 
 water for that purpose. It must always have abun- 
 dant root and top room and plenty of water. 
 
 Petunias 
 
 IROBABLY no common flower of the garden 
 has been so improved during the last few years 
 as the Petunia. The small-flowered variety of a few 
 years ago with its straggly habit and narrow range 
 of colour chiefly white and faded magenta is now 
 superseded by magnificently fringed and ruffled beau- 
 ties in a wealth of colour, from purest white to glow- 
 ing crimson, and a velvety purple that is almost black, 
 
84 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 with wonderfully veined and tinted throats and thick, 
 stocky stems. It is difficult to realise that they are 
 the same plants, plus a few generations of good living 
 and culture. 
 
 The double Petunias are desirable for pots, vases, 
 and bedding out, but I do not think they compare 
 with such strains as Burpee's Defiance, the Giants of 
 California, the Ruffled Giants, and the Miranda. 
 Miranda, for example, is a rosy carmine merging into 
 a brilliant scarlet in the throat the nearest approach 
 to a scarlet Petunia yet produced. The seed of double 
 Petunias will yield a fair proportion of double flow- 
 ers. The young plants of both the single and double 
 varieties require great care at first, being very sensi- 
 tive to hot sun or cold air. Once established, how- 
 ever, they will stand a great deal of both more, 
 indeed, than almost any other flower of this class. 
 Plant them in flats in the house in March by pressing 
 the seed into the soil without covering ; keeping moist 
 and warm until the seed germinates, usually from 
 eight to ten days. When large enough to handle, 
 prick off into larger flats and set them in a warm 
 north or east window. When the leaves touch set 
 them two or three inches apart each way in other flats 
 and let them grow until it is time to place them in 
 the open ground, hardening them gradually by ex- 
 posure to more sun and air each day, and transplant 
 with great care. If intended to replace the Pansies 
 they may be set in the bed in June, the Pansies afford- 
 
ing them protection until they have attained some 
 size. Set each little seedling on the north-east side of 
 a Pansy plant, and by the time the Pansies have passed 
 their zenith they will be ready to stand alone. 
 
 Always remove poor or inferior plants in order 
 that the highest standard may be maintained; the 
 finer varieties may be readily distinguished from the 
 more common sorts by the stems and foliage; the 
 latter having thin stems and small leaves, set rather 
 far apart, while the stems of the fine varieties are 
 very stocky; the leaves large, more or less crinkly, 
 and set closely on the stem ; the buds thick and com- 
 pact, while those of the common type are long and 
 thin. Petunias grow so rapidly that vacant places 
 left by culling are soon filled. The finest specimens 
 may be lifted for winter flowering. They will bloom 
 freely in the house and often show a richer colour 
 than when out of doors. They need considerable 
 root room any crowding of the roots, or starving 
 of the plants being quickly shown in the deteriora- 
 tion of the flowers. Avoid chills and draughts. Give 
 liquid manure and water freely, but do not let the 
 soil get wet or sour. A little charcoal in the potting 
 soil is an excellent corrective of this tendency. Al- 
 ways remove the flowers as they fade, thus prolong- 
 ing the blooming season and increasing the beauty 
 and size of the blossom. 
 
86 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 R 
 
 Primroses 
 
 EQUIRE the same general treatment as other 
 house-plants. A good compost of leaf-mould, 
 loam, and sand is best for the first few shif tings, 
 manure being added as the plants attain size. Re- 
 peated shifting hastens blooming, while keeping the 
 plants in small pots retards it. When ready to bloom 
 they should be fine, large plants in five- or six-inch 
 pots. They should blossom in November and, if well 
 cared for, they will flower from that time on until 
 spring. In potting the Primrose care must be taken 
 to have the crown of the plant slightly above the 
 surface of the soil and the soil lowest at the edge of 
 the pot, that no water may settle around the crown 
 and cause it to rot. When the buds appear give the 
 plants diluted liquid manure once a week. As the 
 leaves of Primroses are easily injured they should be 
 placed where they will be subjected to as little han- 
 dling as possible. Window brackets make an ideal 
 place for them, as they can be turned and inspected 
 without removal, and the large velvety leaves, droop- 
 ing gracefully over the pot, will develop perfectly. 
 Injured or faded leaves should be removed at once. 
 A receptacle rather broad than deep gives opportunity 
 for the best development. A hanging-basket, milk- 
 crock with drainage hole, or jardiniere with outlet 
 will answer. Sufficient root room is particularly nec- 
 essary in the case of old plants, as these have more 
 
House-plants 87 
 
 divisions to the crown and therefore spread more. 
 Primula obconica does better when grown in shallow 
 dishes ; a dish four inches deep and eight wide is much 
 better than the usual flower-pot. 
 
 Florists start their Primroses each year from seed, 
 but there is no reason why, if one has a choice plant, 
 it should not be carried over to the second year, when, 
 being larger, it will give more flowers. 
 
Chapter NINE 
 
 THE outside window-box is a thing of 
 beauty if well cared for, a disfigure- 
 ment if neglected. So greatly does 
 it add to the cheerfulness and ap- 
 parent size of the rooms under the 
 windows of which it is placed that I should advise 
 its use whenever practicable. One of my pleasantest 
 recollections is a window-box full of Heliotrope un- 
 der a sitting-room window, filling the room so full of 
 perfume that going into it in the early morning was 
 like stepping into a garden of fragrance. 
 
 Window-boxes do well in any window not shaded 
 by porches, and the plants best suited to the light 
 may be selected. Many plants too tender to bed out 
 in the open ground may be trusted to the window- 
 box. Fuchsias, Ferns, Asparagus Sprengeri, A. ten- 
 uissimus, Ageratums, fancy-leaved Caladiums, and 
 various tuberous-rooted Begonias, like the silver-spot- 
 ted, known as Angel's Wing, are all lovely in the 
 window-box. Rubra and most of the Begonias do 
 admirably in a north window. For windows facing 
 
 88 
 
the street, where effect is principally sought, bright 
 Geraniums, Heliotropes, Coleus, Crotons, and similar 
 plants are preferable, provided there is sufficient sun- 
 shine to bring out all their rich colouring. 
 
 The fancy-leaved Caladiums may be used where 
 bright effect is sought in a north window. 
 
 The boxes used for this purpose should be as 
 ample as possible, the full length of the window-cas- 
 ing outside and at least a foot wide and deep. They 
 should be made of inch boards, closely fitted together 
 so that the sides shall not warp and allow the water 
 to run through too freely, washing out and exhaust- 
 ing the soil. A hole may be made in the bottom at 
 one end, and provided with a plug, for the escape of 
 surplus water during continued rains. A piece of 
 broken crock or other drainage must be placed over 
 the hole on the inside of the box to prevent the earth 
 working in and obstructing the free passage of water. 
 The hot air of summer will shrink the earth away 
 from the sides of the box, leaving a channel for the 
 water to escape without properly soaking the soil; 
 but if the surface of the soil is kept open, and the 
 centre left a little lower than the sides, this will be 
 prevented. A little experimenting will show just how 
 much water is needed to wet the soil properly with- 
 out letting it run away, and this amount should be 
 used daily during dry weather. Only as many plants 
 as will do well in the limited space of four square 
 feet should be planted in the window-boxes. Five 
 
90 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 erect plants and three vines are enough for a box of 
 that size, and even these may need attention before 
 the season is over, especially if in south or west 
 windows. North or east boxes will, usually, keep 
 their contents fresh until frost; but a west or south 
 light makes great demands upon the vitality of plants 
 confined within the limited area, and it is a good plan 
 to leave Geraniums and similar flowers in their pots, 
 that they may be easily exchanged for others when 
 they grow shabby, cutting back and repotting the old 
 ones for winter blooming if removed not later than 
 August. 
 
 A better plan is to have two boxes ; starting one in 
 the house in March, that it may be ready to place 
 as soon as danger of frost is past; and the second in 
 June, that it may be ready to replace the first when 
 needed. For the latter the vines started in the house, 
 or hotbed, in April will be available. Maurandya, 
 Thunbergia, and the like, and many flowers from seed 
 will have reached sufficient size to be used for the 
 second box. Plants that have been carried over from 
 another season, or purchased from the florist, will be 
 necessary for the first boxes. There is no more beau- 
 tiful vine for a window-box than the Maurandya; it 
 drapes more gracefully than any other vine I know 
 (unless it be the Wild Cucumber, which attaches itself 
 to the window-screen in wreaths of exuberant bloom, 
 drooping far below the window-box, and making a 
 lovely background for scarlet Geraniums). Its only 
 
OUTSIDE WINDOW-BOXES 
 
Nine] utsttie ^tntioto'bojtes 91 
 
 fault is that it will grow shabby before the season 
 is over, when it had better be pulled up and replaced 
 by a fresher vine that has been grown in a pot for 
 the purpose and can be slipped into place without 
 checking its growth. 
 
 Perhaps no plant is more satisfactory for a south 
 or west window-box than a good Geranium either 
 the dark, rich vermilion of the S. A. Nutt, or the vivid 
 scarlet of the Bruant. Both of these appear to bet- 
 ter advantage when contrasted with white flowers. 
 Camphor Geranium is excellent, being a freer bloom- 
 er than other white Geraniums, and the Giant White 
 Antirrhinum is especially vivid. Double white Pe- 
 tunias and white Phlox Drummondi are also good. 
 Purple Ageratums and Heliotrope are charming with 
 scarlet and white. The large-flowered Ivy Geraniums 
 Souvenir de Charles Turner are the best, and do 
 finely in east and west window-boxes, while the varie- 
 gated variety makes a lovely mass of pendent foliage 
 for an east or north box. Trailing Fuchsia, Japanese 
 Morning-glory, Glechoma, and Wild Cucumber all 
 do well on the north side of the house. The follow- 
 ing combinations may all be depended upon to give 
 satisfactory results: 
 
 Southern Exposure. 
 
 No. i. 
 Bruant Geranium White Antirrhinum. S. A. Nutt Geranium 
 
 (scarlet). (cardinal). 
 
 Heliotrope. Heliotrope. 
 
 White Maurandya. White Maurandya. 
 
9 2 
 
 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Jean Viaud Geranium Mrs. J. M. Garr. Jean Viaud 
 
 (pink). (pink). 
 
 Dwarf blue Ageratum. Dwarf blue Ageratum. 
 
 Nepeta Glechoma. Souv. de Charles Turner. Nepeta Glechoma. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 Beaute Poitevine Ger. White Verbena. Madame Charlotte Ger. 
 (salmon). (salmon). 
 
 Weeping Lantana. 
 Var. Ivy Ger. Joan of Arc. Ivy Ger. Joan of Arc. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 Dark Crotons. Dark Crotons. Dark Crotons. 
 
 Light Crotons. Light Crotons. 
 
 Adlumia. Lotus Peliorhynchus. Adlumia. 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 Light Crotons. Light Crotons. Light Crotons. 
 
 Dark Coleus. Dark Coleus. 
 
 Trailing Abutilons. Trailing Abutilons. Trailing Abutilons. 
 
 No. 6. 
 East Window-box. 
 
 Scarlet Tuberous Begonia. White do. Scarlet Tuberous Begonia. 
 
 White Tuberous Begonia. White Tuberous Begonia. 
 White Thunbergia. Scarlet Nasturtium. White Thunbergia. 
 
Nine] utsttie 
 
 93 
 
 No. 7. 
 
 Pink Justicia. Pink Justicia. 
 
 Heliotrope. 
 White Maurandya. Solanum Jasminoides. 
 
 Pink Justicia. 
 Heliotrope. 
 White Maurandya. 
 
 No. 8. 
 
 Yellow Tuberous Begonia. Yellow Tuberous Begonia. Yellow 
 
 Tuberous Begonia. 
 
 White Tuberous Begonia. White Tuberous Begonia. 
 Yellow Thunbergia. Yellow Thunbergia. 
 
 No. 9. 
 
 Pink Double Petunia. White Antirrhinum. Pink Double Petunia. 
 Wild Cucumber. 
 
 No. 10. 
 
 Heliotrope. Heliotrope. Heliotrope. 
 
 Duke Zeppelin Begonia. Duke Zeppelin Begonia. 
 
 Solanum Jasminoides. Solanum Jasminoides. 
 
 Manettia Vine. 
 
 No. n. 
 North Window-box. 
 
 Fancy Caladiums Fancy Caladiums Fancy Caladiums 
 
 (dark). (dark). (dark). 
 
 Fancy Caladiums (light). Fancy Caladiums (light). 
 
 Vinca Var. Vinca Var. 
 
 Trailing Fuchsia. Maurandya. Trailing Fuchsia. 
 
94 
 
 The Flower Garden [Chaptci 
 
 No. 
 
 2. 
 
 Fuchsia Phenomenal. Begonia Angel's Wing. Fuchsia Phenomenal. 
 
 Dwarf Ageratum. Dwarf Ageratum. 
 
 Ivy Geranium. Trailing Fuchsia. Ivy Geranium. 
 
 No. 13. 
 
 Rubra Begonia. Asparagus Tenuissimus. Begonia Velutina. 
 
 Farfugium. Feastii Begonia. 
 
 Variegated Vinca. Manettia Vine. Variegated Vinca. 
 
 Asparagus Sprengeri. 
 Russellia Grandis. 
 
 No. 14. 
 
 Boston Fern. 
 Cissus Discolour. 
 
 Asparagus Sprengeri. 
 Russellia Grandis. 
 
 Nasturtiums make an attractive window-box, but 
 need abundant root room, and not more than three 
 plants should be put in a box having three other 
 erect plants. Morning-glories, on the contrary, re- 
 quire but little room, and one may be put in each end 
 of a north window-box and trained over the window. 
 If strings are provided they will reach the roof by 
 midsummer, blooming every step of the way; other 
 vines may be grown in the front of the box. The 
 Centrosema when it can be persuaded to grow is 
 a charming vine for a north or east window, but it 
 is a very shy plant, hard to get started, and refusing 
 to grow in an uncongenial situation, though quite 
 hardy when once established. 
 
 The best support for the window-box is the wooden 
 bracket made by nailing to the side of the house, 
 
BOXES IN WHICH SCYTHES ARE PACKED MAKE VERY GOOD 
 WINDOW-BOXES 
 
 HANGING-BASKETS FOR WINDOWS 
 
95 
 
 thirteen inches below the window-sill, a strip of inch 
 stuff the length of the window-frame and three or 
 four inches wide ; on top of this and at right angles to 
 it nail three similar strips of wood one foot long, the 
 outer ends resting on strips of wood attached to the 
 sill of the house ; these last strips must have the ends 
 bevelled sufficiently to fit snugly against the base- 
 boards and the bottom of the horizontal pieces and 
 be securely nailed together. If the measurements are 
 carefully taken the box will slip into place, on the 
 supports, just under the window-sill. Paint boxes 
 and supports to match the house. Window-boxes may 
 be kept in the cellar through the winter, or emptied, 
 dried and stored in a dry place, according to their 
 contents. Always empty and thoroughly scald the 
 boxes before using. 
 
 In stocking window-boxes never put plants received 
 by mail directly into them; they should be ordered 
 early enough to pot and become established (the pots 
 full of roots) by the time they are needed for the 
 window-boxes, when they may be slipped into place 
 without disturbing the roots or checking their growth. 
 Placed at once in the boxes, in a sunny position, they 
 would probably be lost. 
 
 Very fair window-boxes may be obtained at trifling 
 expense by using the boxes in which grass scythes are 
 packed, which may be purchased at the hardware 
 store for five or ten cents apiece. These are not as 
 wide nor as deep as one could wish, but have the ad- 
 
96 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 vantage of cheapness and availability. Preference 
 should be given to those having close seams. If 
 warped or open they must be tightened by driving in 
 extra nails, or nailing thin strips of wood over the 
 cracks on the inside. The longevity of the window- 
 box is greatly lengthened by keeping the windows 
 above them especially on the south and west sides 
 of the house open as much of the time as possible. 
 If the sun beats on the glass of the closed window and 
 is reflected on the plants, it is literally confining them 
 between two fires and they cannot be expected to come 
 through uninjured. Let the wind sweep through and 
 over them and they will stand any reasonable amount 
 of heat or moisture. This is the reason plants do 
 better in the open than when placed against the side 
 of a wall or building the air must not only have free 
 access, but pass beyond, carrying off noxious vapours 
 and excess of moisture. 
 
 When there is garden room for their cultivation 
 I do not approve of growing annuals in window- 
 boxes; it is better to reserve these for choice plants; 
 but when the window-box must be the only garden, 
 and economy must be studied, very pretty boxes may 
 be arranged with Sweet Alyssum; scarlet, white, or 
 pink Phlox Drummondi ; scarlet, pink, or white Ver- 
 benas; the various coloured Antirrhinums, Petunias, 
 Nasturtiums, the blue Phacelia and Ageratums, Wild 
 Cucumber, the finer foliaged fancy gourds, as Bryon- 
 opsis Coccinea Indica, and Abobra viridiflora. By 
 
Nine] $utsttje ^mfeoto^ortg 97 
 
 using the scythe boxes, and starting the plants from 
 seed, very pretty boxes may be gotten up for from 
 thirty-five to fifty cents a pair that will give as much 
 pleasure as more expensive ones. The more flowers 
 are cut from these boxes of annuals the more freely 
 they will bloom, and no seeds should be allowed to 
 form. A little liquid manure should be given all 
 window-boxes except those containing Begonias 
 once a week during the summer, and all withered 
 flowers and leaves promptly removed. Nip back 
 weak, straggly growths and encourage the plants to 
 grow stocky and the vines to branch freely. 
 
Chapter TEN 
 
 Annuals front |*>eeti 
 
 ANTIRRHINUMS (Snapdragon). Of 
 late much interest has been shown 
 in the newer forms of this old-time 
 favourite, and some fine new varie- 
 ties have become popular for cut 
 flowers. The Giant White and Queen of the North 
 are most desirable for cut flowers, window-boxes, and 
 vases; while Niobe a beautiful half-dwarf variety 
 of velvety maroon with white throat, Giant Yellow, 
 Giant Crimson, and Firefly a bright scarlet are ex- 
 cellent for bedding. 
 
 Seed should be started early in hotbed or flats. 
 Merely press it into the soil and cover with a paper 
 until the plants appear, which should be in from eight 
 to ten days. Transplant into rich soil where the 
 plants are to remain, setting one foot apart each way. 
 They are effective in rows with some taller plant, or 
 vine, for a background. The tall, showy spikes are 
 most striking against a background of green. The 
 Antirrhinum is a half-hardy perennial, blooming the 
 first season if seed is started early enough, and hardy 
 
 9 8 
 
Annuals from &ttt) 99 
 
 at the North with good protection in winter. If a suc- 
 cession of flowers is desired, no seed should be allowed 
 to form. Protect in winter with a mulch of leaves, 
 evergreen boughs, or corn-stalks, as high or higher 
 than the plants, or they may be pegged down and 
 covered with evergreen boughs, or boards to shed the 
 rain. Thus protected they will live through the win- 
 ter and bloom heavily the following summer. Oc- 
 casionally in favoured locations they will live through 
 the winter unprotected, but this cannot be depended 
 upon. 
 
 Antirrhinums are not particular as to soil or sit- 
 uation, provided they have plenty of water; rich 
 loam or half loam and half leaf-mould suiting them 
 equally well, and any exposure that affords a fair 
 amount of sunshine. 
 
 Asters have come to be a recognised necessity of 
 the fall garden, and there has been marke^TTrnprove- 
 ment in varieties during the past few years. Starting 
 with the old-fashioned Aster of medium size and in- 
 ferior colour, showing a marked yellow centre, the 
 aim of the Aster specialist has been to eliminate the 
 centre, enlarge the flower, and improve the colour 
 and texture of the petal. Results are shown in such 
 varieties as the Giant White Comet, the Bride, the 
 Japanese Tassel Aster, Chrysanthemum Flowered, 
 Peony, Perfection, and the wonderful Ostrich 
 Feather. 
 
 With such an embarrassment of riches it is diffi- 
 
ioo 'The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 cult to declare any one variety the finest, but for cut 
 flowers and corsage wear nothing can excel the 
 Chrysanthemum Flowered in white and pink. 
 
 The lasting quality of the flowers when cut is quite 
 phenomenal. I have known them to keep fresh and 
 sightly in water for a month, until the stems had en- 
 tirely rotted away, leaving the flower uninjured. In 
 arranging them for vases remove all leaves below 
 the top of the vase, leaving clean stems, which should 
 be thoroughly cleansed daily, and the ends clipped. 
 A teaspoonful of charcoal added to the water in the 
 vase will keep it sweet and retard decay. 
 
 Early planting of Asters is to be strongly recom- 
 mended, as the early plants are not subject to the 
 dreaded Aster disease or to attacks of the black beetle, 
 which often destroy all the flowers of a late bed in 
 a single day. 
 
 A teaspoonful of Paris green in the watering-pot, 
 sprinkled on at night or very early in the morning, 
 will usually rid the plants of their unwelcome guests, 
 or they may be brushed off into a pan of water con- 
 taining a small quantity of kerosene which is fatal 
 to them. They are sluggish, especially in the early 
 morning, dropping to the ground when touched, and 
 easily killed. The point is to take them in time, and 
 the appearance of the first beetle should be the signal 
 for active operations. 
 
 For early flowers the seed may be planted in the 
 hotbed, flats, or cold-frame in March or April, cov- 
 
Annuals from 3>eeti 
 
 ering an eighth of an inch deep and keeping rather 
 cool. They germinate in from five to seven days, and 
 when the plants have attained their second pair of 
 true leaves they should be transplanted, setting an 
 inch or two apart in the flats or bed. Transplant 
 again when the leaves close up the gaps between them, 
 setting three or four inches apart according to their 
 growth. If possible, transplant a third time, as this 
 frequent moving serves to produce a great quantity 
 of feeding roots, at the same time checking the top 
 growth and making a stocky plant with stiff stems. 
 Transplant when the weather is favourable into a 
 well-prepared bed of sandy loam enriched with old 
 manure, or a bed of woods earth. Set a foot apart 
 each way, except in the case of the branching Asters, 
 which should be at least two feet apart. 
 
 Sprinkle ashes freely, and as long as there is room 
 to work between the rows cultivate once or twice a 
 week. They may then be mulched with lawn clip- 
 pings to keep down the weeds for the rest of the 
 season. If they are planted in woods earth they will 
 need only such cultivation as is necessary to keep down 
 the weeds. Do not let them suffer for water at any 
 period of their growth, and remove all flowers as 
 they fade. 
 
 Ageratums (Floss Flower) are almost indispensa- 
 ble for edgings, window-boxes, vases, and for filling 
 out beds of Heliotrope. The dwarf or Tom Thumb 
 are the most desirable for edgings. Princess Caroline, 
 
The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Swanley Blue, and Little Dorrit are the best of this 
 class in the blue or lavender shades. The white 
 does not show a good, clear colour under a hot 
 sun, and is therefore not desirable. For early 
 plants sow in flats or in the hotbed early in spring. 
 Later seed may be sown in the open ground when 
 the trees are in bloom, and transplanted when large 
 enough. Sow broadcast, covering the seed lightly 
 and pressing it into the soil. They germinate in 
 from three to five days, and may be grown on until 
 time to transplant into permanent quarters. Though 
 they may start somewhat spindly, they quickly 
 regain their dwarf and stocky character in the open 
 ground. Set plants from eight to ten inches apart 
 in the row. If the flower heads are removed as fast 
 as they fade plants will bloom from early June until 
 cut down by frost. 
 
 Balsams (Lady Slipper), like Asters, are greatly 
 benefited by frequent transplanting, and one at least 
 they must have. Start seed early in the hotbed or 
 flats, or later, when the trees are in bloom, in pro- 
 tected beds in the open ground. Transplant at least 
 once in the seed-beds; twice, if possible. When dan- 
 ger of frost is past remove to beds of muck or marsh 
 earth, setting from twelve to fifteen inches apart each 
 way. Given plenty of room, the Balsam branches 
 freely, and one well-developed specimen will give 
 more and finer flowers than a half-dozen cramped 
 specimens. In purchasing select the camellia-flowered 
 
annuals from 5>eeti 
 
 varieties, as it does not pay to waste time with in- 
 ferior kinds. Really fine Balsams are well worth 
 cultivating, and are very effective in rows in front of 
 taller plants. The double white and shell pink are 
 valuable for floral designs for funerals and for other 
 decorative work. 
 
 Probably no flower that has come into vogue of 
 late years has won more popularity than the Cosmos 
 certainly for cut flowers nothing can surpass it in 
 graceful beauty. The large pink and white Hibiscus, 
 with a generous handful of long-stemmed pink, crim- 
 son, and white Cosmos, makes an ideal bouquet for a 
 high glass vase. Placed in front of a large mirror 
 the effect in form and colour is hardly surpassed by the 
 choicest exotics. The graceful, fern-like foliage adds 
 greatly to the beauty of a well-grown clump in the 
 garden or lawn. They are at their best when seen 
 against a background of darker green, a shower of 
 crimson, pink, and white. 
 
 Only the early flowering varieties should be grown 
 at the North, as the seasons are much too short for the 
 giant or California varieties; though if one has room 
 for both, the California may be grown as a back- 
 ground for the dwarf early flowering, as the foliage 
 is much superior and the late flowers very fine. If 
 started very early in flats in the house, pricked out 
 into pots, shifted and grown on until time to set in 
 the open ground, the season of bloom will be much 
 advanced. 
 
104 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Set out in rich garden soil and supply abundantly 
 with water. Strong stakes must be provided, as the 
 plants are very brittle at the joints, and a storm may 
 do great damage if they are unsupported. An ex- 
 cellent way of growing them is to plant them in front 
 of a wire fence or chicken netting on the side toward 
 the prevailing wind, that they may be blown against, 
 rather than away from their support, and the stalks 
 and main branches tied to the wires with raphia, wool 
 twine, or strips of cloth; thus protected there will 
 be little danger of their being injured by rough 
 winds. 
 
 If an occasional seed is allowed to form and self- 
 sow there will come up very sturdy little plants the 
 following spring, but fresh seed should be purchased 
 every other year to insure against deterioration in size 
 of blossom and quantity of bloom. 
 
 .Columbine (the Aquilegia) seed may be sown in 
 the open ground in the North when the trees are in 
 leaf, or any time after May loth. Cover the seed- 
 bed with a newspaper and keep moist until the 
 plants are up, in ten to twelve days. Transplant when 
 large enough to handle into fresh rows or, when they 
 have attained sufficient size, into their permanent 
 quarters. Planted in a row where they will have a 
 background of green the effect is beautiful. One of 
 the prettiest beds I remember was of mixed Colum- 
 bine pure white, rose, and lavender- in front of an 
 old grey building, on which grew a delicate vine in its 
 
/I" , 
 
 SMALL WATER GARDENS 
 
Annuals from 3>eeti 
 
 first tender spring green. They had been moved the 
 fall before from a bed where they attracted no par- 
 ticular attention, but in their new quarters they awoke 
 to find themselves famous. 
 
 Dahlias are so easily raised from seed that it hardly 
 seems worth while to bother with the tubers, unless 
 one has exceptionally favourable conditions for stor- 
 ing them. Plants grown from seed, started early in 
 the house or hotbed, will come into bloom quite as 
 soon as those grown from tubers. Plant the seed 
 in drills two inches apart, dropping an inch or more 
 apart in the drills, and cover with one-eighth to one- 
 fourth inch of earth. The seed germinates in from 
 five to seven days, and the little plants are quite robust 
 from the start, though sensitive to cold and drought. 
 When all danger of frost is past and the nights are 
 warm transplant the Dahlias into beds of mellow soil 
 heavily enriched with manure. Set three feet apart 
 each way and cultivate thoroughly as long as there is 
 room to work between the rows. Then mulch heavily 
 with rough manure covered with lawn clippings. 
 Water copiously during dry weather, showering the 
 tops at night to counteract the effect of the dry air on 
 the buds. Save waste water from kitchen and bath, 
 and apply to their roots. This affords nourishment 
 as well as moisture. When two feet high tie carefully 
 to tall, stout stakes, which, to avoid injury to the tu- 
 bers, would better be placed when the plants are set. 
 Sprinkle soot and ashes between the plants and culti- 
 
106 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 vate it in. The finest flowers are produced by pro- 
 tecting with an awning of thin cotton cloth after the 
 buds are fully grown though this would only be 
 desirable in the case of exhibition flowers. When 
 several buds appear in one place remove all but the 
 largest, as the difference in size will more than repay 
 for the loss in number, besides there is danger of all 
 blasting if allowed to remain. 
 
 If worms or beetles appear on the buds they 
 should be sprayed with Paris-green solution one tea- 
 spoonful of Paris green to three gallons of water. 
 Should the borer that pest of the Dahlia, Aster, 
 and Cosmos appear, pour the Paris-green mixture 
 around the roots, soaking the soil to the depth of three 
 or four inches. Examine the stock of the plant near 
 the ground for the hole made by the borer. When 
 found run a flexible wire up the stalk to destroy the 
 worm and prevent further damage, and heap the 
 earth above the wound. If brought up to a point 
 above the wound, and kept moist, new roots will start, 
 thus insuring the recovery of the plant. If one has 
 previously been troubled with this worm it will be 
 well to anticipate matters, and, commencing when the 
 plants are a foot high, apply once a week a weak 
 Paris-green solution; continue this until the plant is 
 grown and the wood hardened near the ground. 
 
 The fine mixed double Dahlias, the Cactus and the 
 magnificent single varieties, are all desirable for cut 
 flowers and effective in garden rows ; but for corsage 
 
Annuals from ^>eeti 
 
 wear the last are best. It would be difficult to find a 
 flower more beautiful than a vivid-coloured single 
 Dahlia. 
 
 For the rockwork try English Daisies pink, white, 
 crimson, and striped. They do admirably in such a 
 situation, digging their toes in between the stones, 
 finding cool, moist spots, and holding their heads up 
 in the hot sunshine. Start the seeds where they are to 
 remain, or in a flat or cold-frame. The little plants 
 appear in from five to seven days, and will need shade 
 and moisture until they have become established. 
 For beds that lie in partial shade they make beautiful 
 borders, forming little rosettes of leaves that in the 
 fall may be taken up and divided by pulling apart into 
 as many plants are there are crowns; in this way one 
 will, in a short time, secure a large bed or border. 
 They should be protected in winter by a mulch of 
 rough stable litter, evergreen boughs, or corn-stalks, 
 and the bed raised to shed water. 
 
 The Hibiscus (Marshmallow) is a perennial de- 
 serving much more general cultivation. Even to 
 flower lovers it seems quite unknown, and yet it is 
 cheaply and easily raised from seed, and one of the 
 hardiest of our garden perennials. There are three 
 varieties hardy in the North an immense pure white 
 blossom with a velvety crimson eye, a pale pink or 
 flesh colour, and a lovely bright pink. These three 
 are hardy in the open ground without protection, but 
 they will be stronger plants and bloom more freely 
 
io8 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 if protected with a little rough litter and hilled to 
 shed water. 
 
 There are several that may be treated as hardy 
 annuals, and various tender perennials that must 
 be kept in the house or greenhouse during winter. 
 Among the first are Africanus, a large cream- 
 coloured, brown-eyed variety; it is low-growing and 
 effective in front of the tall, crimson-eyed sort, 
 which with age attains a height of six or more 
 feet. 
 
 Giant Yellow is a beautiful canary yellow with 
 crimson throat, hardy as far north as St. Louis, 
 but safer in the cellar above that latitude, and Coc- 
 cinea, a tender perennial of a brilliant crimson. If 
 started early all will give flowers the first season from 
 seed, which may be sown in hotbeds or flats in Feb- 
 ruary or March in drills one-fourth inch deep. They 
 germinate in from five to seven days. Plant out in 
 good garden soil at corn-planting time, setting the 
 hardy varieties where they are to remain, as they do 
 not bear transplanting well when they have attained 
 any considerable size. Cultivate during the hot 
 weather or mulch. A two-quart tin can, with holes 
 on one side near the bottom, may be sunk in the 
 ground and filled with water. This with the mulch 
 will keep the earth cool and moist during the hottest 
 weather. The plant is an herbaceous perennial, dying 
 down to the ground in winter and coming up from 
 the roots the following spring rather late in May. 
 
Annuals from 
 
 109 
 
 Plants increase in size and beauty each year, and a five- 
 or six-years clump is superb. 
 
 Cut off the stalks a few inches above the ground 
 when killed by frost, but do not attempt to break them 
 off or pull them up, as that will injure the crown of 
 the large, fleshy roots and cause decay during the 
 winter. The remainder of the stalk serves to mark 
 the location of the plant. When they have grown 
 to blooming size they should be tied to stout stakes. 
 The large clumps have a tendency to spread at the 
 roots, and a severe rain and wind storm may lay them 
 prostrate. Make a support of two or three wooden 
 hoops nailed to two or more stout stakes, the top hoop 
 standing three feet above the ground. Place this 
 over the plants in the spring and train them to grow 
 up through the hoops. 
 
 For effective grouping, to fill in a corner, to serve 
 as a screen to unsightly objects, to catch the eye and 
 carry it on from point to point, there is no finer flower 
 than the Hollyhock. The double flowers, of course, 
 are more attractive at close range, but at a distance 
 the single are rather more effective. Everyone who 
 grows plants should find at least one corner for a big 
 clump of this gorgeous flower. 
 
 The seeds should be sown in the spring, either 
 where they are to remain or in a cold-frame; the loca- 
 tion matters little so that favourable conditions of the 
 soil are secured. Plants started after the seed ripens 
 in the summer, even when protected by a cold-frame, 
 
no The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 do not make sufficient growth to endure a very severe 
 winter. The new Alleghany Hollyhocks are hardier, 
 and a fair proportion of plants from August-sown 
 seeds may be expected to survive the winter. When 
 the plants run up their blossom stalks the second 
 season they must be securely staked to prevent injury 
 by high winds. If the borer appears apply the Paris- 
 green solution about the roots. The Hollyhock is 
 subject to attack very early in the season by a variety 
 of red spider which feeds on out-of-door plants. 
 The Paris-green solution may be used for this, or a 
 kerosene emulsion, or the plants may simply be 
 showered with hot water at about 145. The rem- 
 edy should be applied promptly. The Hollyhock 
 blight is a fungous disease of a most destructive nat- 
 ure. Its ravages almost drove the Hollyhock out 
 of our gardens some years ago. Infected plants 
 should be burned. Though hardy the second year, 
 they should be hilled up sufficiently to shed water and 
 given a shelter of corn fodder or evergreen boughs 
 during the winter. 
 
 When the trees are in bloom Nasturtiums may 
 be planted in the open ground where they are to 
 remain. They should have fairly rich soil and a 
 sunny situation, as they will not bloom well in the 
 shade. The dwarf varieties make very attractive 
 borders for Canna beds, the colour and texture of 
 the foliage harmonising better with the Canna than 
 that of the Coleus and many other plants commonly 
 
Annuals from |s>eeti 
 
 
 employed, while the brightness of the blossoms makes 
 a very attractive whole. 
 
 The tall varieties make effective beds when pegged 
 down, as the plants root wherever they touch the 
 ground and send up flower shoots. Usually, however, 
 they are grown on strings or trellises. The latter is 
 a troublesome method, as they must be fastened to 
 their support with strings. They are not climbers, 
 but trailers, and have no tendrils or other means of 
 attaching themselves to their support. 
 
 The finest bed of Nasturtiums I have seen is an 
 elevated one built around a pipe which brings water 
 from a distance. Some of the water not much 
 reaches them, and they are given little, if any, atten- 
 tion, but in their elevated bed they grow luxuriantly, 
 trailing over the sides of the ground and showing 
 a brilliant mass of flowers until cut down by frost. 
 Usually the Nasturtium receives too much water, and 
 produces quantities of rank, lush foliage instead of 
 flowers. 
 
 The new Nasturtium, Sunlight, is one of the finest 
 varieties brought out in years a pure, clear, golden 
 yellow without any markings and of fine size. Its 
 companion, Moonlight, is a pale cream, almost white, 
 showing wine-coloured markings in the throat. For 
 mixed varieties the hybrids of Madame Gunther are 
 the most desirable, and the new Chameleon shows a 
 variety of different coloured flowers on the same stem. 
 
ii2 *fhe Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 The Pansy Bed 
 
 TO obtain the best results seed should be sown by 
 the middle of August, using fresh seed of the 
 year if procurable. Rather than delay planting, 
 however, it is better to risk the lessened vitality 
 of last year's seed sowing somewhat more gener- 
 ously as an offset. Sow as thinly as possible in the 
 cold-frame or a spent hotbed, in drills two inches 
 apart, drawing the earth from the sides of the drills 
 and pressing it down with the board. The drills 
 should run lengthwise of the bed from east to west, 
 and each variety should be distinctly labelled with 
 name and date of sowing. After sowing water well 
 with the rubber sprinkler, cover with newspapers, 
 and protect the bed with lath screens. Pansy seed 
 germinates in from eight to ten days. When the 
 plants have their second leaves thin out by setting 
 some between the rows, and encourage growth by 
 giving sunshine and water as needed and liquid ma- 
 nure once a month. The aim should be to get a sturdy 
 rather than a quick growth to fit them for the winter. 
 The soil in the frame should stand well above the soil 
 outside, and a trench or hole, filled with stone or 
 broken crockery, should be made in one corner, cor- 
 responding to the lowest level of the earth outside, 
 to carry off any surplus moisture that may gather in 
 the bed. When cold weather comes place the sash 
 in position and, if it remains steadily cold below 
 
Annuals from ^teti 
 
 freezing leave the bed undisturbed until spring. 
 The best results usually follow such a condition. If 
 the winter is an open one, and the ground free from 
 frost much of the time, the Pansies may be exposed 
 to the sun and, on mild days, to the air. In this way 
 considerable winter growth will be secured. Should 
 the temperature fall sufficiently to freeze the ground 
 inside the frame, the sash should remain closed and 
 be protected with mattings, old carpet, or the like, and 
 the plants allowed to thaw out in the dark. Never 
 expose to the sun when frozen, but thaw out under 
 cover. 
 
 As soon as the ground can be worked in the spring 
 prepare a bed in an open, sunny situation by removing 
 the soil to a depth of six or eight inches and spading 
 in a generous amount of old, well-rotted cow manure 
 a wheelbarrow load to every fifteen square feet is 
 not too much if it is old and thoroughly spaded into 
 the soil. Replace the surface soil, or, better still, 
 fill up the beds with leaf-mould or earth from the 
 compost heap. Instead of the cow manure, old, well- 
 rotted hen manure and chip dirt in equal quantities, 
 with a liberal sprinkling of soot, may be substituted. 
 Dig it well into the subsoil and cover with fine loam 
 or leaf-mould, raking this fine and even and free 
 from stones. Leave it to settle for a few days and 
 then transplant the Pansies, setting them nine inches 
 apart each way. Where several strains of Pansies 
 are grown it is an advantage to plant each variety by 
 
Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 itself, marking the line of separation by two or more 
 rows of some distinct colour; such as pure white, 
 clear yellow, or black. This enables one to compare 
 the varieties at a glance and form a better estimate 
 of their qualities than would be possible in a mixed 
 bed. 
 
 During hot, dry weather the Pansy bed should be 
 watered twice a day at night and at noon. Water- 
 ing the garden in the middle of the day may seem a 
 reckless innovation to many, especially to the profes- 
 sional gardener, but years of experience have taught 
 me the value of giving a plant water when it most 
 needs it and that is when it is parched with heat. 
 Of course all plants will not stand water under a hot 
 sun, but Pansies are not injured by it in any way. 
 Pansies do not send their roots as deeply into the 
 ground as most plants, but make many surface roots 
 (hence we place the fertilisers well below the surface 
 to induce a deeper growth), which even a temporary 
 drying out of the top-soil will injure. A good soaking 
 of the soil at night will last until ten or eleven o'clock 
 the next day, according to exposure, and if another 
 good wetting is then given with water fresh from the 
 hydrant or well it will remain cool and moist through- 
 out the twenty-four hours. The rapid evaporation 
 caused by the hot sun will create a moist atmosphere 
 around the plants, producing much finer flowers than 
 would be possible in the dry air resulting from with- 
 holding water until night. Always plant Pansies in 
 
Annuals from 
 
 s 
 
 an open, airy situation, where the wind can have full 
 sweep over them. There is no more mistaken idea 
 than that Pansies should be grown in the shade. The 
 aim should be to get stocky, upright plants with the 
 flowers borne well above the foliage on stiff stems. 
 This is impossible when plants are grown in the shade, 
 where long, straggly branches will invariably be pro- 
 duced, with flowers at the extreme end. Then, too, 
 plants grown by the side of the house, or in protected 
 positions, where the wind cannot sweep over them, 
 are much more liable to disease than plants grown in 
 the open. 
 
 Fungoid disease and mildew often attack the Pansy 
 in hot, muggy weather. The remedy for the former 
 is to spray with the Bordeaux mixture, and for the lat- 
 ter to dust with sulphur. It will be better still if the 
 disease appear in August, as is usual to remove all 
 the old growth, cutting or breaking it off close to the 
 crown, care being taken not to injure the tender new 
 shoots, which will have started by this time. Burn 
 the old tops. The new growth, being open to the air, 
 will probably be free from disease, and will quickly 
 fill the bed, giving an abundance of fine flowers 
 throughout the cool days of fall. From a bed so 
 treated I gathered five hundred blossoms the day 
 before Thanksgiving with no apparent diminution of 
 bloom. After removing the old growth the earth 
 between the plants should be thoroughly cleaned and 
 worked over with the trowel. 
 
u6 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 From the blooming of the first Pansy until frost the 
 bed must be gone over every day and all faded flowers 
 removed. This is absolutely necessary to insure free 
 blooming. The formation of a single pod of seed 
 lessens the blooming capacity of the plant and reduces 
 the size of succeeding flowers. 
 
 To maintain a high standard it is best to purchase 
 fresh seed each year, buying the best to be obtained. 
 Special mixtures sent out by the leading florists are 
 made up of the best strains of the Pansy specialists in 
 this country and Europe. One must not expect to 
 purchase these collections for the price of ordinary 
 seed, from twenty-five cents to fifty cents being the 
 usual range of price. A packet of such fine strains 
 as Giant Gassier and Giant Trimardeau should be 
 included; and such special colours as may be wanted 
 in larger quantities" than the mixed packages furnish. 
 Snow Queen is the best pure white, and the bed should 
 contain a liberal number of these plants. Aurora is 
 considerably larger than the Snow Queen, but shows 
 purple markings in the centre, and is not so fine in 
 shape and texture. With the exception of size, Snow 
 Queen is an ideal Pansy. If it is desired to carry the 
 Pansy bed through the winter it may be done by using 
 pieces of board, half a yard long, with notches cut 
 in one end and the other end pointed. Put these 
 through the centre of the bed a few feet apart, ham- 
 mering the sharp end into the ground. Place long 
 poles lengthwise of the bed, resting them on the 
 
annuals from |s>eeti 
 
 notches. This forms a support on which the ever- 
 green boughs, corn fodder, boards, bark, or anything 
 that will shed water and protect from sun and wind. 
 Leaves and litter are not suitable protection for Pan- 
 sies, as they settle around the plants, freezing and 
 causing them to decay. 
 
 When there is a large garden to be cared for it is 
 not always expedient to carry the Pansy bed through 
 the summer, as the daily labour of removing the with- 
 ered flowers is very great. In that case it will be better 
 to let the Pansies go when hot weather reduces the 
 size and quantity of the flowers, replacing them with 
 plants grown for the purpose, Petunias, bedding Be- 
 gonias, Heliotropes, and the like. 
 
 Sow Poppy seed freely wherever there is a corner to 
 spare, especially if it is a corner that would otherwise 
 be neglected and grow up to weeds. It is surprising 
 how many places may be found to sow them. A bar- 
 ren angle of a fence, a vacant strip behind or at the 
 side of some outbuilding, an exposed spot among trees 
 where nothing else will grow, a foot of ground here 
 and there, in the perennial border and among late 
 flowering plants, where the Poppies will have danced 
 through their brief season of bloom and passed on 
 before the former have discovered that they need 
 the room. Use all these odds and ends of room, but, 
 if possible, have a long, narrow bed of them single 
 and double, the deep blood red, the gorgeous scarlet, 
 the wonderful Shirleys, whose delicate cups like 
 
n8 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 crinkled silk seem to flush and pale with the tremulous 
 colour of an opal as you look at them. Plant Esch- 
 scholtzias as a border, but sow Iceland and the Orient- 
 al Poppies, which are hardy perennials, by themselves ; 
 otherwise they are easily destroyed in the clearing-up 
 time which comes after blossoming. There is a fine 
 yellow Poppy, Hunnemannia fumariaefolia, which 
 should not be overlooked. Poppy seed sown in Au- 
 gust gives richer coloured flowers than spring-sown 
 seed. Seeds of Eschscholtzia and Hunnemannia 
 should always be sown in May. Sow broadcast as 
 thinly as possible on soil that has been worked mellow 
 and fine, pressing it into the ground with a board. 
 As it is difficult to sow the seed thinly enough it is a 
 good plan to mix it with fine sand a teaspoon ful or 
 less of seed to a teacup of sand and scatter that as 
 thinly as possible. It will, even then, be found that 
 the plants will come up too thickly and will need to be 
 thinned to stand a foot apart each way. Poppies 
 grown too closely will throw up one or two slender 
 stems with only a few blossoms, while, given plenty of 
 room, they will branch freely, producing dozens of 
 flowers and remaining in bloom for weeks. Mark the 
 finest blossoms on the plant from which you wish to 
 save seed, removing all others as they fade, that they 
 may not self-sow or check the bloom. If self-sown 
 they are apt to come up so quickly as to be trouble- 
 some. Pull up the plants as soon as they have done 
 blooming to add to the compost heap, and prepare 
 
Annuals from s>eeli "9 
 
 the ground, if not needed for other plants, for the 
 fresh seed. When there is sufficient shade to grow 
 them the blue of Myosotis and of Anchusa capensis 
 is lovely among the Poppies. 
 
 Phlox Drummondi 
 
 TRY a border of the dwarf Phlox Drummondi, 
 sown to make a colour scheme. Set six to eight 
 inches apart, in the form of scallops, the point coming 
 between every other plant of the tall, perennial Phlox. 
 Make the rows two or three plants wide at the centre, 
 narrowing to a single plant at the point, using scarlet 
 or pink, and filling in the space between the scallops 
 and the straight edge of the bed with solid white. 
 Or a double scallop, one beginning in the centre of the 
 other, may be made of scarlet and buff, or pink and 
 buff, filling in the large spaces between with white and 
 the small spaces with Cope's Favourite Ageratum. 
 The dwarf Ageratums grow very evenly and are ad- 
 mirably adapted for carpet bedding. Seed of the 
 dwarf Phlox germinates very slowly. It should be 
 sown where it will have bottom heat and be given 
 plenty of time, frequently three weeks or more. The 
 common Phlox Drummondi germinates more freely, 
 and may be sown where it is to remain, thinning to six 
 inches apart in the rows, or it may be sown and trans- 
 planted, which insures more even rows, 
 
The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 Salvias (Flowering Sage) 
 
 IT is surprising how seldom one sees the Salvia 
 grown to any considerable extent outside the 
 public gardens and parks, though no other flower can 
 compare with it in richness of colour and freedom of 
 bloom, but there seems to be an impression that it 
 must be purchased from a florist or grown from cut- 
 tings. Salvia is much more desirable for bedding 
 than for any other purpose. In the house it is subject 
 to attacks of red spider, which make it more trouble 
 to care for than it is worth, while in the open ground 
 it is remarkably healthy and free from insect pests. 
 
 Seed should be started early in flats or hotbed, and 
 plants set out where they are to remain, when all dan- 
 ger of frost is past, as they are very sensitive to cold. 
 Muck or marsh earth seems the most congenial soil 
 in which to grow the Salvias, and if this is supplied 
 they will need little care beyond watering during the 
 summer. 
 
 I have grown the Salvia splendens the usual 
 height of which is about two and a half feet to 
 a uniform height of five feet in a bed of marsh earth, 
 with a supply of water from a pipe, keeping it con- 
 stantly moist. They will do well in the hottest situa- 
 tion if well supplied with water, and even better in 
 partial shade the foliage being a deeper green and 
 the colour of the blossoms richer and more velvety 
 than when exposed to full sunlight. For years I have 
 
Annuals from 5>eeli 
 
 grown them around a twelve-foot bed of Ricinus and 
 Cannas, and notice that the plants are always much 
 finer on the north side. 
 
 Try them as a border to a bed of Cannas or Ricinus, 
 edging them with white Sweet Alyssum or dwarf 
 Ageraturn. They root readily in wet sand in a warm 
 situation, and if a house-plant is available it may be 
 used for cuttings instead of sowing seed. 
 
 Seed may be saved without injury to the plants 
 as it ripens, and must be gathered before the flowers 
 entirely fade. The corolla or lip of the flower falls 
 out, leaving four white seeds an eighth of an inch 
 long at the base of the calyx, which remains fresh un- 
 til the seeds have ripened, when they may be shaken 
 out. By going over the plants daily one soon saves 
 a fine lot of seed, which may be depended upon to 
 germinate. The Salvia seed germinates in about five 
 days. But less vigorous seed will continue to appear 
 for two or three weeks after sowing, and the soil 
 should not be disturbed until all have had time to 
 appear. They require considerable heat to germinate 
 freely, and when this is supplied will give very satis- 
 factory returns. Bonfire, Clara Bedman, and S. splen- 
 dens are the best of the scarlet-flowered variety. The 
 white-flowered Salvias would be desirable if the blos- 
 soms were more closely massed on the spray ; as it is 
 they are too scattered to have any value. S. patens, 
 however, when brought to perfection is magnificent, 
 the individual flowers being double the size of the 
 
122 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 scarlet and of the most wonderful shade of blue. It 
 is seldom seen, but should have a place in every gar- 
 den, as it is a colour rare among flowers, the nearest 
 approach to it being the Monkshood. It is a tender 
 perennial, but may be wintered in a warm, dry cellar, 
 dying down to the ground usually, but starting up 
 from the root in the spring. 
 
 Sweet Alyssum and Golden Saxatile are both desir- 
 able for edging or for rockwork, and may either be 
 sown in the open ground where they are to remain, 
 or in a seed-bed and transplanted. 
 
 Sweet-peas 
 
 SO much has been written on this subject that the 
 culture of Sweet-peas might, without much ex- 
 aggeration, be called a cult. Though blooming with 
 its head in the sun, the Sweet-pea loves to plunge its 
 roots deep in the cool, moist earth, and the seed 
 should be planted as early in the spring as the ground 
 can be worked, or, better yet, in the fall. This late 
 fall planting has much to recommend it, as there is 
 more leisure and the work is apt to be better done 
 than in the hurried days of spring when everything 
 seems to call for immediate attention. 
 
 The seed should be planted deep in two rows a foot 
 apart, running, if possible, north and south, that the 
 plants may receive the maximum amount of sunshine. 
 Placed in this way, they receive both morning and 
 
Annuals from ^eeti 
 
 afternoon sun. A strip of wire netting five feet high 
 should be stretched between the rows and securely 
 fastened to stout posts driven into the ground. Six- 
 foot netting is even better than five, as the Sweet-pea 
 loves to climb, and blooms better if not thwarted. 
 Dig on each side of the netting, as close as may be 
 without breaking the space between, a trench a foot 
 or eighteen inches deep and as wide as is necessary to 
 work conveniently. Place in the bottom about six 
 inches, when trodden down, of old, well-rotted cow 
 manure, fill in about six inches of the removed soil, 
 making it fine and mellow; sow the seed and cover 
 with two or three inches of soil and press firmly 
 down. If planted in the fall protect with several 
 inches of rough manure, removing it in the spring that 
 the soil may get the benefit of the sun's warmth. When 
 the plants are two or three inches high thin to six 
 inches apart in the rows, and draw up part of the soil 
 removed from the trench. Add more as the plants 
 grow until it is all banked up against them, leaving a 
 slight trench between the ridges and the surface of 
 the ground. 
 
 The wire should come close to the ground that the 
 plants may have support from the start. Do not 
 water until necessary, then sufficient water should be 
 poured into the trench to thoroughly soak the ground 
 at the bottom of the roots, but do not turn it on 
 the foliage or stems. Thorough and frequent cultiva- 
 tion should be given during the blooming season. 
 
124 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Should it become necessary to shower the foliage dur- 
 ing dusty weather it would better be done early in the 
 morning or sufficiently early in the evening to allow 
 the foliage to dry before the chill of night. This 
 guards against the blight and mildew, so prevalent in 
 Sweet-pea culture. 
 
 When for any reason it is not convenient to culti- 
 vate frequently, a mulch of lawn clippings will keep 
 the ground about the vines cool and moist. To insure 
 freedom of bloom all faded flowers should be removed 
 each day. If the flowers are cut as fast as they open 
 the quality will be improved. Under no circumstances 
 should seed be allowed to form, as the ripening of the 
 seed is fatal to the flowers. 
 
 There is such a bewildering variety of Sweet-peas 
 that any suggestion of choice is impossible, but usu- 
 ally the special collections put up by seedsmen will 
 prove more satisfactory than those of one's own 
 choosing, if one is unfamiliar with the names of the 
 varieties. 
 
 Verbenas 
 
 N sowing the seed of Verbenas it is best to keep 
 colours separate, as white, pink, scarlet, scarlet 
 with white eye, and the new Mayflower Verbena 
 one of the finest novelties brought out in recent years. 
 
 They should be started early in flats or hotbed, 
 soaking the seed in hot water for three or four hours 
 before planting. It germinates very irregularly, often 
 
 I 
 
annuals from 
 
 s 
 
 coming up after one has ceased to expect it. The 
 soil should be kept moist so long as there is any chance 
 of more plants appearing. Verbenas will thrive in 
 any good soil, striking root wherever a point touches 
 the ground. Cultivate, if in loam or stiff soil, as long 
 as there is room to work between the plants, which 
 should be set at least a foot apart. Verbenas do 
 finely on the rockwork, seeming to enjoy the cool cor- 
 ners they find under the stones, and the finest I have 
 ever grown have been in such a situation. 
 
 Vincas (Periwinkles) are an exceedingly beautiful 
 and little known tender perennial worthy of extensive 
 cultivation, as easily grown as an Aster or Verbena, 
 and very effective in large beds. For the price of one 
 greenhouse plant a dozen plants may be raised from 
 seed. The foliage is deep green and glossy, and large 
 single flowers of exquisite colour and texture pure 
 ivory white, white with a crimson eye, and rosy crim- 
 son are borne at the end of every branch covering 
 the plants, which grow from fifteen to eighteen inches 
 high and nearly as broad. As a border for a Canna 
 bed nothing could be better, and they make fine sym- 
 metrical winter bloomers. No finer plants for house 
 decoration could be desired. 
 
 The seeds, which should be started early in hotbeds 
 or flats, germinate in from ten to fifteen days, some- 
 times earlier. Set out plants, when all danger of frost 
 is past, in muck, if possible, or in well-enriched loam, 
 setting a foot or fifteen inches apart each way, cultivat- 
 
i26 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 ing once a week, if in loam or stiff soil, but if in muck 
 it will only be necessary to mulch. Water every day 
 during the hot weather, and if kept from seeding they 
 will bloom from June until cut down by frost. They 
 do well in full sunshine or in shade, but must have a 
 fair amount of moisture. If no seeds form plants 
 may be lifted in the fall and potted in large pots for 
 winter blooming. 
 
 Small plants of the Chrysanthemum obtained from 
 the florist in the spring will, with proper care, make 
 fine blooming plants by fall. Plant out, when all dan- 
 ger of frost is past, in a sunny bed composed of rather 
 sandy loam and muck well manured and made deep 
 and mellow. Set the plants from a foot to eighteen 
 inches apart each way and cultivate at least once a 
 week during the summer. They should never suffer 
 for water, as if once allowed to dry out they never 
 fully recover. 
 
 When the plants are six or eight inches high pinch 
 back to four inches. Allow four branches to spring 
 from this main stalk, removing all others. When 
 these are four inches long pinch back again, allowing 
 each of the four shoots to form three or four branches 
 and nipping out all others as they appear. If a few 
 very large flowers are desired, allow only the four 
 branches to grow from the main stem, removing all 
 other shoots. When the branches are six inches in 
 length pinch back for the last time not later than 
 August ist, after which they should be allowed to 
 
Annuals from s>tefc 7 
 
 grow on undisturbed, removing all but the terminal 
 buds if fine flowers are desired. 
 
 Lift by September ist, transfer to large pots or 
 boxes, according to the size of the plants. The soil 
 should be given a good watering the day before lift- 
 ing, that the earth may cling to the roots and that the 
 plant may be in the best condition for moving. Cut 
 around the plant with the trowel, leaving a ball of 
 earth as near as possible the size and shape of the 
 pot it is to fill. Avoid disturbing the roots. 
 
 Set in a cool, shady place for a few days and keep 
 in a rather cool, dry atmosphere after removing to 
 the house. Water freely and give liquid manure once 
 a week. Do not shower the tops after buds appear, 
 or keep where bulbs are growing in water, as moisture 
 at this stage is apt to cause the buds to blast. Chrysan- 
 themums are quite certain to be attacked at some stage 
 of their growth with black aphis, or lice, which are 
 very troublesome to get rid of once they have gained 
 a foothold. It will be wise, therefore, to keep the 
 foliage constantly dusted with tobacco at all seasons 
 of their growth, as in this form tobacco is most effect- 
 ive. Once the pest has gotten a start fumigating with 
 tobacco smoke will be necessary. Shut the plants in 
 a close room or box and smoke thoroughly. 
 
Chapter ELEVEN 
 
 HARSH outlines of buildings, a dead 
 tree, a dilapidated fence, a sunny 
 window, an obtrusive outbuilding, 
 may be transformed by the use of 
 Nature's drapery. There exists in 
 the minds of many, unfortunately, a prejudice against 
 vines on the house as injurious to walls. This is en- 
 tirely unfounded, the contrary, so far as I am able to 
 judge, being the case, especially on the south and west 
 sides of frame houses, where the paint and consequent- 
 ly the woodwork, will be found in a much better state 
 of preservation when protected by such vines as Am- 
 pelopsis Veitchi, Virginia Creeper, Woodbine, and the 
 like, than when exposed to the burning, blistering rays 
 of the sun. Vines make a thick growth of overlapping 
 leaves which shed rain and prevent its penetrating to 
 the walls. In England, where it is much used, it is 
 said that walls covered with Ivy are almost indestruc- 
 tible, so hard and dry has the cement remained under 
 its protecting care, 
 
 128 
 
9 
 
 Adlumia 
 
 (Mountain Fringe, Climbing Fumitory, Alleghany 
 
 Vine) 
 
 ONE of the prettiest of summer vines is the Adlu- 
 mia, though it lasts but one short summer. It 
 is a biennial, stooling the first summer and the second 
 summer bursting into a wealth of tender green foliage, 
 as finely cut as a fern, with hundreds of sprays of deli- 
 cate flowers a delightful vine when grown on the 
 north side of the house, where it retains its fine green 
 throughout the season, though in the hot sun it is 
 inclined to burn. It is especially appropriate for 
 funerals. It self-sows, and once established there is 
 sure to be an abundance of it from year to year. In 
 the fall seeds may be scattered where the plants are 
 to remain, or the seed may be germinated in another 
 spot and the seedlings transplanted later. As the 
 plants always receive a check when moved, it is bet- 
 ter to do so as early as possible in the fall, that they 
 may become established before cold weather. Plants 
 should be set two feet apart. 
 
 Cobaea scandens ( Cup-and-Saucer Vine) is a most 
 desirable summer vine. It grows to a great height 
 and blooms freely, throwing great, bell-shaped flow- 
 ers pure white, greenish white, lavender, mauve, and 
 purple from the axil of nearly every leaf. The 
 flowers of the purple variety are pale green at first, 
 changing through all the shades of lavender and 
 purple to plum. 
 
130 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 There is another variety the San Salvador Cobaea 
 that is even more desirable than the C. scandens. 
 The flowers are much smaller, but have greatly exag- 
 gerated stamens that give them distinction. Its chief 
 beauty, however, is the foliage of light, translucent 
 green, to which the sun, shining through it, gives a 
 luminous quality rare in vines. In manner of growth, 
 too, it is superior, its many-lobed leaves lying parallel 
 to, or flat on the netting, instead of at right angles, as 
 is the case with C. scandens. Both these vines do 
 well in a north or east exposure and require less water 
 than most vines. They are admirable for covering an 
 old tree or any partly dead wood. 
 
 Seed should be started in the hotbed early in spring, 
 setting them on edge and covering a quarter of an inch 
 deep. Unless the soil appears dry they should not be 
 watered until the plants are up and have their first 
 true leaves. Set out when danger of frost is past in 
 mellow soil, watering as needed, and giving support 
 for the vines to cling to. To stone and brick, or the 
 bark of a tree, they will cling of themselves, each leaf- 
 spray ending in a tendril that attaches itself to any 
 rough surface. I have never been able to ascertain 
 what height they will attain if given support, but the 
 top of a reasonably tall tree falls short of their am- 
 bition. 
 
 The Centrosema (Butterfly Pea) is rather a hard 
 vine to propagate from seed. Seeds germinate freely, 
 but the young plants seem strangely lacking in vigour, 
 
Eleven] 
 
 so that frequently, after making a few inches of 
 growth, they refuse to go further, and gradually 
 dwindle away. It is therefore better to make several 
 sowings, soaking the seed in hot water for an hour 
 before using, and planting in hotbed or cold-frame. 
 If it is dropped an inch or two apart in the rows there 
 will be no occasion for disturbing until it is time to 
 transplant into the open ground which would better 
 be deferred until the plants are six or eight inches high. 
 They should be moved with as little disturbance as 
 possible, pressing the trowel down its full length and 
 lifting and transferring to their permanent position 
 on the east side of the house in one operation. Water 
 and press the earth around the roots and furnish im- 
 mediate support. Thus treated they will usually 
 thrive and bloom in a few weeks, continuing until 
 frost unless seeds form, which should not be allowed 
 on young plants. 
 
 Were they much more difficult to raise, it would 
 still be worth many trials and failures to secure one 
 thrifty plant, so lovely it is when in bloom. I do 
 not remember another plant whose blossoms give one 
 such an idea of perfection of exquisite and minute 
 finish, as this lovely Centrosema with its beautiful 
 colour, delicate markings, and symmetry of form. 
 Before it bloomed I had begun to wonder whether 
 it was worth all the trouble, but when I saw the first 
 perfect blossom all doubts vanished and I would go 
 to much greater trouble to possess it. 
 
132 The Flower Garden [Chaptei 
 
 The Centrosema is of slender growth, and seldom 
 exceeds eight or ten feet. Plants should be set a foot 
 apart in front of a wire trellis or other support. They 
 are hardy, but should be given protection in winter. 
 
 Gourds are a very useful family. They are an 
 ornamental feature of the summer garden, and afford 
 an economic and unique addition to the winter's sup- 
 ply of plant receptacles, hanging-baskets, low bowls 
 for Tulips, Crocus, and other bulbs. Many of them 
 are highly ornamental and graceful climbers as the 
 Wild Cucumber, Bryonopsis, Coccinea Indica, and 
 Abobra, which have delicate foliage and showy fruit, 
 and may be grown where any quick-growing vine is 
 wanted. They are especially good for covering rear 
 fences or unsightly outbuildings. 
 
 Some of the varieties have large white flowers 
 which are finer than a Clematis, and of the fruit of 
 large-flowered ones the prettiest hanging-baskets are 
 made. Saw them in two when thoroughly ripe and 
 dry, remove the pulp, scrape the shell clean and thin 
 and give a coat of green or brown shellac inside and 
 out, and hang with brass chains. They are more 
 satisfactory if the gourds are a year old and perfectly 
 dry. A hole must be made for drainage, and in case 
 of bowls, tiny supports fastened to the bottom with 
 glue to raise them from the table, as without the free 
 circulation of air they are liable to mould. 
 
 Seed must be sown as early as possible that the 
 fruit may have time to ripen before frost. Set out 
 
A DEAD TREE DRAPED WITH VINES 
 
OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF 
 
Eleven] mtZ '33 
 
 when all danger of frost is past in any garden soil in 
 a sunny position where they will have good support, 
 as they are vigorous and rapid climbers and will 
 quickly go to the top of a tall tree. They are liable 
 when first set out to be eaten off by cutworms, and 
 they should be protected by a bottomless tin can sunk 
 into the ground two or three inches, care being taken 
 that there are no worms inside the can. The gourds 
 do not grow for some little time after setting out, as 
 they are making roots; but once they begin the de- 
 velopment is rapid. 
 
 The variegated Japanese Hop is another summer 
 vine that should be extensively grown. Its large, 
 handsome foliage, freely splashed with white, is very 
 showy and effective, and it thrives in almost any sit- 
 uation and soil, though paying well for extra care or 
 attention in the way of cultivation, watering, and 
 food. The vines are not hardy, but, as they self-sow, 
 once established they are practically permanent. Sev- 
 eral plants should be set near each other, as only 
 the female plant bears seed. The leaves of this are 
 smaller and the vine more slender. The great-leaved, 
 robust vine bears no seed. 
 
 It is better to plant the seed in the fall, as when 
 planted in the spring it may not come up until the 
 following year. If this is the case the ground where 
 it is sown should be left undisturbed until the follow- 
 ing spring, when it will make an early appearance. 
 When it does sprout the same season, the seed -ger- 
 
The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 minates in from eight to ten days. The plants do 
 equally well on north, south, east or west walls, but 
 should be kept sufficiently watered on the south or 
 west. 
 
 There is but one precaution I have found neces- 
 sary in growing the Japanese Hop : namely, to give it 
 a rather elastic support, a twine trellis being better 
 than a rigid wire one. The finest Japanese Hop I 
 ever saw grew over a south window on a trellis of 
 chicken netting; the growth was wonderful, and the 
 great leaves were beautifully splashed with white. I 
 was exceedingly proud of the vine, but one day I saw 
 it hanging limp and withered from its trellis, and an 
 investigation revealed the astonishing fact that it had 
 grown so rapidly and attached itself so firmly to the 
 unyielding wire that it had pulled its roots entirely 
 out of the ground, literally committing suicide. Since 
 then I have used a more yielding support. 
 
 The Japanese Morning-glory should be started 
 in the house or hotbed and not transplanted into the 
 open ground until the nights and ground are warm. 
 
 Many of the varieties received direct from Japan 
 are only adapted for growing in pots ; that is how the 
 Japanese grow them, and we can hardly expect to 
 improve on their methods. Pot off all plants showing 
 unusual markings, or oddly shaped leaves, and plunge 
 in the sand-box, giving sunshine and abundance of 
 water and using large pots, or shifting frequently as 
 needed. Give liquid manure once or twice a week. 
 
FURNISH SUPPORT FOR VINES TO RUN ON 
 
 VINE-COVERED SHED 
 
Eleven] tttES '35 
 
 Furnish support for the vines to run on, either a 
 trellis or sticks in the sides of the pot and strings run 
 back and forth through and around them, or they may 
 be trained against the wall back of the sand-bor. 
 Most of the seeds purchased here, however, are grown 
 in this country, and the plants are as rugged as the 
 old-fashioned Morning-glory. It will be noticed that 
 those with oddly shaped leaves and broad, hairy stems 
 rarely bloom here, the buds appearing too late to de- 
 velop before frost. Grown in pots these might give 
 some interesting specimens. If only a few of the buds 
 are allowed to develop the size will be greatly in- 
 creased. 
 
 The Maurandya Vine is one of the most satisfac- 
 tory for low trellises, window-boxes, vases, rockwork, 
 and the like, in summer, and for hanging-baskets in 
 winter. In the open air it attains a height of five or 
 six feet, giving an abundance of pink, white, and 
 lavender-coloured, foxglove-shaped flowers, an inch 
 and a half in length. The smooth, shining leaves are 
 ivy-shaped and cling to supports by a twist of the 
 stem. It grows readily from seed, and germinates in 
 from twelve to fifteen days. For trellis and outdoor 
 work start early in flats or hotbed, setting out when 
 danger of frost is past, but for winter use June is 
 early enough to sow seed. It requires no special treat- 
 ment, doing well in any situation with good soil and 
 sufficient moisture. This is one of the most graceful 
 and useful vines for either summer or winter. 
 
136 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Thunbergias (Black-eyed Susans) like a warm, 
 sunny situation, and in good soil will grow six or 
 eight feet tall and be covered, until cut down by frost, 
 with a wreath of tube-shaped, flat-faced blossoms 
 two inches in diameter pure white, white with black 
 eye, yellow with white eye, and yellow with black eye. 
 They are very valuable for covering low trellises, the 
 foundations of porches, window-boxes, urns, or rock- 
 work where a small vine is needed. They are admi- 
 rable as basket or bracket plants in winter. They grow 
 freely from seed, germinating in about twelve days, 
 and should be started early in flats in the house or 
 the hotbed. Much finer plants are grown in this 
 way than can be purchased from the florist. Their 
 only enemy is the red spider, and they should be show- 
 ered frequently to prevent an attack. 
 
 The Manettia Vine is one of the most satisfactory 
 vines for winter blooming, requiring only a small pot 
 and a place in a sunny window, and blooming better 
 when pot-bound. A daily watering, and occasional 
 doses of weak liquid manure when the other plants are 
 getting it is all the care it needs. It does not require 
 a warm atmosphere, blooming freely in a tempera- 
 ture of about 50, and giving an unfailing succession 
 of its bright little flowers every day during the winter. 
 It is that rare thing a plant which the florists have 
 not overpraised. It is every bit as good as it is 
 claimed to be. Though equally at home in a hanging- 
 basket or on a trellis, I have found it most attractive 
 
Eleven] ttS 137 
 
 when grown on strings across the window in com- 
 pany with Solanum jasminoides, whose sprays of 
 airy white flowers contrast with the orange and scarlet 
 of the Manettia. A small plant obtained from the 
 florist in spring and potted in a four-inch pot, with 
 good compost, will be ready to bloom by November, 
 and will remain in bloom from that time until spring, 
 when it should be repotted in a six-inch pot and 
 plunged in the sand-box to grow for winter blooming. 
 The only precaution necessary is to keep it in a small 
 pot, as it blooms more freely when pot-bound. Cut 
 back if not branching freely, as the bloom comes at 
 the ends of the new growth. 
 
 Clematis (Virgin's Bower) 
 
 THE large-flowered Clematis are the most expen- 
 sive vines we have. So slowly do they propa- 
 gate from cuttings that the price remains high from 
 year to year. The cheapest way to obtain them is 
 to raise them from seed and, though this is a more 
 or less uncertain method, the expense is so slight com- 
 pared to the purchase of plants that where many are 
 required it is worth repeated efforts. Plant the seeds 
 in flats in the house either in fall or spring. Cover 
 an eighth of an inch and press the soil down firmly, 
 keeping moist and warm. They germinate in from 
 six weeks to a year; for this reason fall planting is 
 desirable, as the soil may more easily be kept in the 
 
138 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 right condition. When the plants are large enough 
 to handle, pot off into small pots and plunge in the 
 sand-box, if the weather is warm enough, or in a 
 sunny window if cold. Winter in a frost-proof cellar 
 the first winter, putting them in the open ground 
 where they are to remain till the following spring. 
 The plants will give a few blossoms the second season, 
 enough to show the variety, and the next year may 
 be expected to bloom freely. Plants raised from seed 
 are more likely to bloom and do well than those from 
 cuttings. 
 
 Clematis paniculata comes more freely from seed 
 than the Jackmanni strains, and should be largely 
 grown, as it is one of our loveliest vines and blooms 
 when most others have ceased. Clematis flammula 
 self-sows and established little plants are continually 
 coming up in unexpected places, which may be re- 
 moved to any desired position, as this variety does not 
 in the least mind being disturbed. All Clematis are 
 benefited by winter protection, and such varieties as 
 Ramona and other spring bloomers should have the 
 tops protected with sacking or old carpet. Mrs. Ed- 
 ward Andre dies to the ground in the winter, but 
 should be well protected around the roots. Many 
 growers cut back Clematis to within a few feet of the 
 ground each fall, but where large spaces are to be cov- 
 ered one loses much time, as the frost usually does all 
 the trimming necessary. The early spring bloomers 
 from last season's wood and cutting back in the fall 
 
Eleven] 
 
 simply lessen the blossom points. If it is necessary 
 to trim for symmetry or lack of room it should be 
 done immediately after the plants are through bloom- 
 ing, that they may have abundant time for new 
 growth. 
 
 Bignonia Radicans 
 
 (Trumpet Vine) 
 
 IT is to be regretted that this fine vine is so com- 
 mon and old-fashioned that no one seems to 
 appreciate it sufficiently to bring it up to its really 
 magnificent possibilities. When grown as a shrub no 
 finer plant for a hedge could possibly be desired. For 
 this purpose the plants should be set about three feet 
 apart, or even closer, if it is desired that the hedge 
 should be useful as well as ornamental. Set in an 
 even row where the hedge is desired, tie each plant 
 to a stout stake, and allow only one branch to grow, 
 cutting this back when three feet high to form the 
 head, which should be made to branch freely. By 
 the time the stake has rotted away the plant will have 
 made a trunk as large as one's wrist and perfectly self- 
 supporting. All dead and weak branches should be 
 trimmed out each year and the hedge kept pruned 
 back to symmetrical growth. If the seed-pods are not 
 allowed to form the plant will be in bloom nearly all 
 summer. Such a hedge will be a thing to bequeath 
 to posterity along with old oaks and fine elms. 
 
140 The Flower Garden 
 
 The Trumpet Vine is equally desirable as a climber, 
 and on some surfaces is self-supporting, but on others, 
 as the side of a building or a board fence, it often fails 
 to attach itself, and in that case must be artificially 
 supported. This should be very securely done, as a 
 hard storm may tear a heavy-topped specimen en- 
 tirely away from its support and do much damage. 
 The best support is afforded by stretching a galvan- 
 ised wire across a branch, just under a joint, and fast- 
 ening each end by a staple driven firmly into the 
 building. 
 
 Grown as a shrub on the lawn the Trumpet Vine is 
 very fine and should be trained to a stake and grown 
 the same as a Kilmarnock Willow. Every year, as my 
 Bignonias bloom, I grow more and more enthusiastic 
 over their possibilities, and wish more people would 
 grow them with some definite aim in view. 
 
Chapter TWELVE 
 
 Ornamental jfoltage plants from 
 
 Canna (Indian Shot) 
 
 ALL Cannas the gorgeous orchid-flow- 
 ered, as well as the old-fashioned sorts 
 can be easily and cheaply grown 
 from seed and will give blossoming 
 plants almost as soon as those started 
 from bulbs. When one must buy plants and the fine 
 new varieties are desired, the starting of an eight- or 
 ten-foot bed is a matter for economical consideration. 
 Five or six dollars is as little as one can expect to pay 
 for such a bed if plants are purchased, but by starting 
 the seed the cost is reduced to a mere bagatelle. It 
 is better to buy seed by the ounce, as not all will come 
 up, and one should make sure of a sufficient quantity. 
 The seed must be filed on the end opposite the germ, 
 so that the white shows through plainly, and the best 
 way to do it is to tack a piece of medium sand-paper 
 to a piece of wood and rub the seed on that. It is 
 better to do this before they are wanted, as it is a 
 
 141 
 
142 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 tedious process when one is in a hurry. Soak the 
 seeds in hot water for an hour or two before planting 
 and sow in hotbed or flat, keeping moist and warm. 
 When large enough to handle, prick out in thumb- 
 pots and place in a warm, sunny window. It would 
 be even better to start them in tiny pots, plunged in 
 a box of sand or in the hotbed, to avoid danger in 
 removing, as they sometimes suffer in the process. 
 Though one of the toughest plants when of some size, 
 the little seedlings are exceedingly tender. Shift as 
 needed until time to place in the open ground when 
 all danger of frost is past. Plant, if possible, in muck 
 well manured, as Cannas do exceptionally well in that 
 soil and can scarcely have too much food and water. 
 Unless one has city water or other supply it is better 
 to make the Canna bed somewhat lower than the 
 lawn, that all the water may be retained and not run 
 off, as it will if the beds are raised. If tall-growing 
 varieties are grown in the centre the effect will be as 
 good as though the bed were raised and less water 
 will be needed. A good mulch of lawn clippings will 
 help to keep the soil moist, mellow, and free from 
 weeds and will greatly lessen the care of it. Seed 
 sown in February or March will give blooming plants 
 in June, and by fall there will be a fine lot of roots 
 to store away for another year. 
 
 Coleus, which are practically indispensable in all 
 ornamental bedding, are easily raised from seed and 
 will make fine plants by June. Start seed in rather 
 
jfoltage plants 
 
 deep flats in the house in February or March, covering 
 lightly and giving a warm place (see directions for 
 growing house-plants from seed). They germinate 
 in from five to seven days. As soon as the plants have 
 their first true leaves place in a warm, sunny window 
 and encourage them to grow as rapidly as possible. 
 When they have two or three leaves the colours will 
 be sufficiently developed to admit of making selec- 
 tions, and if the box is at all crowded they can be 
 potted off and grown on until time to plant out. 
 Coleus are very sensitive to cold and should not be 
 planted out in the open ground until the nights are 
 warm. Never allow the Coleus to flower, as this in- 
 jures the foliage greatly. Pinch out the flower heads 
 as they appear. Water liberally and pinch back oc- 
 casionally to symmetrical form. Any soil that suits 
 the Canna, or other ornamental foliage plant, will do 
 for the Coleus a light, sandy loam enriched with 
 manure is as good as anything, and leaf-mould an- 
 swers admirably. 
 
 Where a quantity of Cineraria, or Dusty Miller, is 
 needed for borders, it is much more economical to 
 grow from seed, starting them in hotbeds and plant- 
 ing out when all danger of frost is past, setting six 
 inches apart. 
 
144 7>k Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Ricinus, or Castor-oil Bean 
 
 PROBABLY the most effective and tropical-look- 
 ing plant in cultivation to-day is the Ricinus, 
 and fortunately it is within the reach of everyone. It 
 is usually seen as a solitary specimen on the lawn, or 
 as the centre of a bed of other plants, or probably in 
 a long row; it is more effective, however, in a group, 
 and thus grown makes a good background for low 
 plants. Seed should be started early in house or hot- 
 beds. It germinates in twelve to fifteen days. The 
 best results will be obtained when started in the house 
 by planting in three- or four-inch pots. Put two or 
 three seeds in a pot and remove all but one if more 
 come up. Before filling the pots with earth mixed 
 with good compost, a piece of shard, or flat stone, 
 should be placed over the drainage hole to confine the 
 roots, as they make a very rapid growth. Shift into 
 larger pots as required, and plant out when all danger 
 of frost is past in a deep, rich soil. Marsh earth is 
 best, but where this is not available any good garden 
 soil will answer if heavily manured and well watered. 
 The young plants are somewhat backward after 
 transplanting and frequently refuse to grow at all, so 
 that it is well to have a few plants in reserve against 
 a possible emergency. After the plants are a foot 
 high, little if any trouble will be experienced. The 
 newer Zanzibar varieties are the most desirable, being 
 very fine both in colour and development, growing 
 

Twelve] jfoltage plants 
 
 under favourable conditions from eight to ten feet 
 tall with leaves three feet in diameter. 
 
 Banana plants are very showy and attractive and 
 in the North are more or less of a novelty. They may 
 be planted out in the open ground or in tubs when all 
 danger of frost is over. Though less sensitive to root 
 disturbance than the Ricinus, they are very impatient 
 of the immediate presence of other plants, and young 
 plants should be grown by themselves. Robust two- 
 year-old plants, however, may be used as centres for 
 beds of Cannas or similar plants with fine effect. 
 When obtainable they should be given a compost of 
 muck and old manure and supplied with a very lib- 
 eral amount of water; the water from the laundry 
 and kitchen should be saved for them, as one can 
 scarcely overfeed them. Give a warm, sunny situa- 
 tion, protected from rough winds, which whip and 
 tear the broad leaves, rendering them most unsightly. 
 A southeast angle of building or shrubbery furnishes 
 an ideal location. In the fall the plants may be re- 
 moved to the cellar in the tubs in which they have 
 been grown, or they may be lifted, if grown in 
 the open ground, and planted in suitable tubs for 
 the adornment of the conservatory or living-room. 
 Grown indoors they are very ornamental, the foliage 
 being perfect, which is rarely the case out of doors. 
 It is also much easier to carry the plants through the 
 winter in this way; as they are very sensitive to cold 
 and damp when dormant and cannot be carried sue- 
 
146 The Flower Garden 
 
 cessfully in a cellar where these conditions exist, even 
 though it be free from frost. In the South and the 
 same method may be employed in the North, provided 
 the cellar conditions are right the plants are dug 
 up, the soil removed, and the roots wrapped in gunny- 
 sacks and laid on a shelf in the cellar, all the leaves 
 being removed except the central one, which must be 
 carefully protected from all injury. 
 
Chapter THIRTEEN 
 
 3BuUjou0 anti Cufterousnrooteti 
 Pant* 
 
 C ANNAS may be started any time in April 
 or May. The old-fashioned tall-grow- 
 ing varieties may be put in the open 
 ground early in May. Cover with 
 three or four inches of soil and pro- 
 tect the bed with a little rough manure if the nights 
 are cold, the finest of the manure being left to enrich 
 the soil when the plants are up. 
 
 The large-flowering French and Orchid-flowered 
 Cannas are delicate and very sensitive to cold and 
 damp and should be started in the house with heat. 
 Divide the roots into points and pot separately in 
 leaf-mould, or they may be placed in baskets of sand 
 set in a warm, sunny place and kept constantly moist ; 
 this is the simplest and best way of handling them. 
 Cannas are less likely to mould or decay in sand than 
 in soil, and it is easier to keep a uniform degree of 
 moisture in the baskets than in the small pots. The 
 baskets should be partly filled with fine white sand 
 and the roots laid in place, points up, as closely as 
 
 '47 
 
148 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 convenient, and sufficient sand added to cover them. 
 They must not be planted out until all danger of 
 frost is past and the nights are warm, and they should 
 then be handled very carefully to avoid injuring the 
 tender roots. Give them a soil of muck or heavily 
 manured loam and abundance of water. The most 
 convenient place for starting bulbs of all kinds is 
 a warm upstairs room, over a kitchen or elsewhere, 
 with a south or west light. A wide shelf may be ar- 
 ranged under the windows and one's entire supply of 
 bulbs started there in pots and baskets out of the way. 
 Seeds of flowers and vegetables may also be started 
 there to advantage. 
 
 Dahlias are best started in the baskets of sand, 
 putting the bunches in whole, with the crown just be- 
 low the surface of the sand. When they have 
 sprouted and the weather is warm they should be re- 
 moved from the sand and carefully divided. A num- 
 ber of tubers will have failed to start, while others 
 will have thrown several shoots. If the number of 
 plants is not sufficient more may be secured by graft- 
 ing part of the green shoots into the dormant toes. 
 Remove a shoot, cut the end to a wedge shape, re- 
 move a corresponding wedge from the crown of a 
 toe and insert the shoot; it should rest in the toe an 
 inch or more and be placed in the ground at once 
 drawing the earth around it snugly that the scion 
 may be in no danger of separating from the toe be- 
 fore it has formed a union. Only one shoot should 
 
Thirteen] UOUS atlS H9 
 
 be left on a tuber, and the removal of the extra ones 
 for grafting is a distinct gain. Whenever it is nec- 
 essary to divide the roots a portion of the stem with 
 a well-defined eye must be given to each division, 
 otherwise there will be no top growth; the toes will 
 root, but they will not grow. For further directions 
 see chapter on growing Dahlias from seed. 
 
 Caladium esculentum, or Elephant's Ears, is a na- 
 tive of the Sandwich Islands, where it furnishes a 
 staple article of food called Poa. The root when 
 cooked is like a potato. It is better to start sepa- 
 rately in pots an inch larger than the bulbs, setting 
 the top of the bulb just above the surface of the 
 soil. Pot with muck or good compost and keep 
 moist and warm. They respond to heat and moist- 
 ure the most readily of all dormant bulbs, beginning 
 to grow at once and making steady progress, the 
 root growth keeping step with the top much more 
 uniformly than is usual with bulbs that are wintered 
 dry. It is an ideal plant for the amateur, as easily 
 grown as a hill of corn. If fine plants are desired 
 only those bulbs showing a live centre-shoot should 
 be used. If the winter conditions have been favour- 
 able the bulbs will show a strong centre-shoot or 
 rolled-up leaf; where this has decayed or dried off 
 there will frequently be side-shoots which are worth 
 saving when the supply of bulbs is small, and which 
 will produce fair results, but for really good plants 
 the centre-shoot is necessary. 
 
150 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Plant out when all danger of frost is past, in muck 
 if possible, or in heavily manured loam; the more 
 freely they are watered the finer will be the growth. 
 Old bulbs should give leaves three feet or more in 
 length and correspondingly wide. 
 
 Single specimens are fine in pots, vases, or tiles, 
 but they are really seen at their best in large clumps 
 on the lawn, or edging beds of Cannas or other sub- 
 tropical plants. 
 
 They are easily wintered and multiply very rapidly ; 
 and, as much better effects can be obtained by plant- 
 ing largely of one variety, an effort should be made 
 to have a generous supply. Aim for a tropical luxu- 
 riance of effect whether the plants used are Cannas, 
 Caladiums, Ricinus, or all three. 
 
 Tuberous Begonias should be started at the same 
 time as the Caladiums, Cannas, and other tuberous 
 plants. Pot singly in small pots of leaf-mould, set- 
 ting the tuber level with the surface of the earth, 
 but shaping the soil away from it toward the edge 
 of the pot that water may not settle around it. The 
 side showing a slight depression is the top. Often 
 it is difficult to determine this, in which case the bulb 
 may be laid on the surface until growth begins and 
 the fact can be determined, when it may be potted. 
 Do not keep too warm, as that induces a leggy 
 growth; a temperature of about 60 is right. 
 
 Bed out, when all danger of frost is past, in partial 
 shade. In England it is claimed that they will stand 
 
Thirteen] 
 
 the hottest sun, but the atmosphere of England is very 
 different from our dry air, and the tuberous Begonia 
 does better with us if shaded. Where there is no 
 natural shade an awning of cotton cloth during the 
 hottest part of the day answers every purpose. Glox- 
 inias are started the same as tuberous Begonias and 
 require practically the same treatment, but more heat. 
 Fuller cultural directions are given in the chapter on 
 growing from seed. 
 
 Fancy-leaved Caladiums, though belonging to the 
 same family as C. esculentum, bear little resemblance 
 to that sturdier branch, being small in growth, gor- 
 geous in colouring, and exceedingly delicate. Unlike 
 the Crotons and Coleus, which revel in full sunshine, 
 they develop their beautiful colours best in partial or 
 complete shade. They do, however, love a warm 
 atmosphere and must be guarded against sudden chills 
 and draughts. They are very desirable for window- 
 boxes on the north side of the house, for growing in 
 sheltered nooks, and for warm, sheltered positions on 
 porches. Several may be grouped together in a ten- 
 inch pot very effectively, as they require but little 
 room. They may be brought inside in the fall, and 
 kept growing until they show signs of resting, when 
 water should be gradually withheld until the leaves 
 have ripened. The pots should then be set away in a 
 warm, dry place as a shelf in a closet until wanted 
 the following spring. 
 
 Such wonderful things have been accomplished in 
 
152 "The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Gladiohis culture that one scarcely recognises the old 
 favourite. All along the line, size, colour, texture, 
 markings show the effect of a high state of cultiva- 
 tion and careful hybridising. The Childsi are, per- 
 haps, the finest; while several of the strains of giant 
 Gladiolus show wonderful size and colour. They 
 increase rapidly, and one should buy a few bulbs each 
 year so as to maintain a high standard. 
 
 When ready to plant, remove all loose husks, dead 
 roots, and stalks, leaving the bulb clean and fair. 
 Plant directly in the open ground, sufficiently late 
 for frost to have gone by the time they are up. Plant 
 the bulbs eight inches deep in fine leaf-mould, or a 
 mixture of muck, loam and old manure, or even well- 
 enriched garden loam. Planted deeply they will not 
 need staking an important point in growing Glad- 
 ioli; nor will they be so much affected by cold, heat, 
 or draught as in the case of shallow planting, and may 
 be planted earlier and left much later in the fall, giv- 
 ing the bulbs more time to ripen. 
 
 They should be cultivated frequently during the 
 summer or well mulched and supplied with water as 
 needed. No seed should be allowed to form, as the 
 plants make new bulbs each year, sometimes several, 
 and that, with the production of flowers, is enough 
 for one plant. A plant that seeds freely will not pro- 
 duce as many or as good bulbs. Take up in the fall 
 before the ground begins to freeze, and put in a warm, 
 sunny place for a few days to dry. Remove the stems 
 
Thirteen] uOUS US '53 
 
 by cutting off six or eight inches above the bulb, but 
 do not attempt to pull or break them, as that will 
 injure the new shoot which lies just inside the old 
 stalk. Tie in bunches and hang in a dry, cool place, 
 free from frost, or store in paper sacks. 
 
 Montbretias resemble the Gladioli in flower and 
 foliage, but are very slender of growth. They throw 
 long, graceful sprays of brilliant scarlet, orange, and 
 lemon, very desirable for cut flowers. The flowers 
 open successively, as do the Gladioli, and are in bloom 
 a long time. They may be grown in the corners of 
 the Gladiolus bed with good effect. The culture is 
 the same, except that the Montbretias are not plant- 
 ed so deeply about three inches. They multiply 
 very rapidly about fourfold, and are as easily cared 
 for as the Gladioli. 
 
 Tigridias (Shell Flowers) are beautiful in colour, 
 and odd in shape, and rather gorgeous in effect 
 whether set singly or in groups. The colours are a 
 pure white, white with lilac, purple and white, yellow 
 and orange with dark spots, white with a brownish 
 spot on a yellow ground, and rose colour. The flower 
 remains open for only a day, but as there is always 
 another to take its place it is not missed. They would 
 better be started in the house in pots and bedded out 
 when frost is past, as, planted in the open ground, 
 they sometimes fail to appear. Lift and dry in fall 
 and store in a dry, warm place during winter, exam- 
 ining occasionally for mould or grey lice. The leaf 
 
154 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 much resembles that of the date-palm, being ribbed 
 and pointed at either end. 
 
 Summer-blooming Oxalis are very desirable plants 
 for borders. They are extensively grown in parks 
 and public gardens, but are little seen in private 
 grounds. They are the most easily raised of all the 
 bulbous plants and increase in a manner quite alarm- 
 ing, each bulb forming a long tuber resembling a 
 white radish in general appearance, and covered with 
 small bulbs probably fifty the top being crowned 
 with one large bulb, the source of the season's 
 florescence. These bulbs are not a solid body, as 
 would appear at first glance, but are made up of 
 hundreds of minute scales like a lily bulb. Added 
 to its interesting character below ground is its rather 
 remarkable performance above ground. It comes 
 into leaf and blossom two weeks after planting, 
 about the time the first tiny tips of other bulbs ap- 
 pear. 
 
 One great advantage of this precocity of growth is 
 that Oxalis may be substituted when for any reason 
 other border plants have failed to come up and it is 
 necessary to replace them in a hurry. Often a hardy 
 border plant winter-kills and one keeps waiting for 
 it to start until it is too late to get plants from seed, 
 then the little Oxalis comes to the rescue. 
 
 Buy them by the hundred and set about three inches 
 apart and about two inches deep. Take up in the 
 fall and put in a sunny place to dry, turning often; 
 
Thirteen] UjOUS atlS '55 
 
 when dry remove from the centre tuber and sort, sav- 
 ing the largest bulbs. 
 
 Crinums and Amaryllis 
 
 FOR the past year or so an unusual amount of in- 
 terest has been shown in this magnificent class 
 of plants, followed in many instances by grievous dis- 
 appointment, as, led away by the glowing descrip- 
 tions of the dealers, investments are made in bulbs 
 whose proper culture is entirely unknown. It is to be 
 regretted that dealers sending out bulbs requiring spe- 
 cial treatment as the Crinums do not give instruc- 
 tions for their culture. It would save a vast amount 
 of disappointment, complaint, and distrust. Unfort- 
 unately many florists do not themselves understand 
 their requirements; they merely purchase the bulbs 
 from other dealers, and publish trade advertisements 
 and illustrations. 
 
 Seen in bloom under proper conditions and treat- 
 ment it is not strange that florists wax eloquent in 
 their praise, and invest heavily in bulbs which they 
 sell to an ignorant and confiding public. There is, 
 however, little difficulty in growing the Crinum in- 
 deed, I know of no plant more easily grown, once it 
 is understood. 
 
 Most of the complaints show that there has been 
 no effort made to study the nature of the plant. A 
 little study would show that an immense bulb like 
 
156 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Crinum ornatum must have a generous supply of 
 roots to sustain it; that these roots must have time 
 to grow, commensurate with the length of time the 
 bulb has been out of the ground, and that not much 
 could be expected of it until these conditions were ful- 
 filled. These facts are obvious from a study of the 
 dry bulb, other facts are only arrived at after expe- 
 rience with the Crinum as a plant. 
 
 The root growth is quite in keeping with the size 
 of the bulb; it forms great quantities of fleshy white 
 roots as thick as pipe-stems, which are very impatient 
 of disturbance and should be left practically unmo- 
 lested for a number of years. When a bulb is pre- 
 pared for market these roots are all removed. It is 
 not strange that when called upon to rally from the 
 shock of dismemberment and to replace the entire 
 root growth it should sometimes fail to bloom as 
 readily as expected. Often only a portion of the 
 former roots start again, and this must be taken into 
 consideration when anticipating bloom. 
 
 When a dry bulb is received from the florist it 
 should be potted at once in a pot two inches larger in 
 diameter than the bulb, that is, one allowing one 
 inch of space between the pot and the bulb all around. 
 Good potting soil, loam, leaf-mould, or muck, good 
 sharp sand and old, well-rotted manure should be 
 used. I do not think the muck absolutely essential, 
 except in the case of C. Americana, which may be 
 grown in pure muck, but good fibrous loam and sharp 
 
Thirteen] UOUS att* 157 
 
 sand must be used. Place an inch or two of drainage 
 material in the bottom of the pot, covering with 
 sphagnum moss to keep the water from washing the 
 soil into the drain and clogging it ; fill within an inch 
 of the top of the pot with soil; press the bulb into it, 
 making a depression the shape of the base of the bulb 
 and a couple of inches deep; line this hollow an inch 
 deep with clean white sand, replace the bulb, water, 
 and give a warm, sunny position. The bulb may be 
 lifted and examined daily without injury, to note the 
 root development and to watch for signs of blue- 
 mould, which is apt to attack the Crinum if slow in 
 rooting and which, when it appears, should be care- 
 fully wiped off. As soon as the root growth has 
 fairly commenced the bulb must not again be dis- 
 turbed, as there is then danger of injuring the root. 
 This inspection shows the root development the bulb 
 is likely to make, and gives an idea of the probable 
 florescence. The bulb is planted on top, and not in the 
 soil, but if it makes the root growth it should that 
 will hold it as firmly as though it were entirely em- 
 bedded. 
 
 Usually a bulb will bloom in about three months 
 from potting, sometimes sooner, but it is better to 
 allow it a margin of time. Few leaves are made up 
 to blooming time, but after the bloom has faded the 
 foliage grows rapidly and, in the case of large bulbs, 
 is really magnificent. When the foliage begins to 
 fade and turn yellow at the tips the growth for the 
 
158 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 season is practically over, and water should be grad- 
 ually withheld, and the plant allowed to rest. From 
 this time on give only sufficient water to keep the 
 plant from going dust-dry. Enough water may be 
 given to keep the roots from shrivelling but not suf- 
 ficient to induce top growth. Soon after starting it 
 will be noticed, perhaps, that the bulb has shrunk and 
 grown smaller and somewhat soft. As the foliage 
 dies it becomes firm and hard again, the strength of 
 the top has returned to the bulb from which it came, 
 and it is at this period that it makes its own growth 
 and prepares for another season of bloom, readiness 
 for which it will announce by beginning to grow 
 though water be withheld. The top earth which 
 should be dry at this time should be removed as 
 far as possible without disturbing the roots, and re- 
 placed with good, rich soil. Water freely, and when 
 the buds appear give a little weak liquid manure once 
 a week. The second blooming will be much finer 
 than the first, as the plant has now sufficient root 
 growth to support both stalk and blossom. 
 
 Should the bulb outgrow its quarters it may be 
 shifted into a pot two sizes larger, care being taken 
 not to disturb the roots. In this way the Crinum may 
 be grown on from year to year, shifting when really 
 necessary, renewing the top-soil each year without dis- 
 turbing the roots and allowing it seasons of complete 
 rest. This is the whole secret of Crinum culture 
 undisturbed root action and well-defined seasons of 
 
Thirteen] 95ulf)OUg klltS 159 
 
 rest and growth. It requires a warm, sunny window 
 in winter, and an eastern exposure in summer, where 
 it will get the full morning sun and be protected from 
 rough winds which injure the foliage. In protected 
 situations certain varieties, as C. Kunthianum, hold 
 their great leaves erect and are very fine; they will 
 not do this when exposed to wind. Care must be 
 taken to protect them from heavy rain, as water set- 
 tling in the leaves sometimes causes the bulb to rot. 
 I have lost some very fine specimens from this cause. 
 A protected sand-box is an ideal place for them, as 
 the evaporation from the wet sand supplies just the 
 moist atmosphere they like. They may be wintered 
 in a warm, dry cellar, but, if the cellar is at all cold 
 or damp, it will be better to keep them on the back 
 of the plant-stand or on a shelf in a closet where they 
 may be inspected frequently. 
 
 Crinums are such expensive floral luxuries that it 
 pays to take good care of them. Many varieties make 
 few offshoots, and hence can never become cheap, but 
 there is a distinct pleasure in possessing something 
 rare and fine. 
 
 Unfortunately much confusion exists in regard to 
 the two Crinums, Kirkii and ornatum, and the same 
 bulb is often offered under different names. The 
 dealers themselves seem to have no clear idea as to 
 which is which. I believe, however, that ornatum is 
 distinguished by a pink stripe through the centre of 
 each petal, while the corresponding stripe in Kirkii 
 
160 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 is reddish-purple; these two are the most uncertain 
 and unsatisfactory of all Crinums in the hands of 
 the amateur. 
 
 C. Moorei, also often offered as ornatum or Kirkiv 
 is one of the choicest Crinums and a native of Sout'. 
 Africa. Its flowers, produced in umbels of from te r i 
 to twelve, are of a soft, delicate blush with a pin 1 : 
 bar through the centre of each petal. It is delicious 1 
 fragrant, and the large bulb and handsome foliage 
 much resemble C. ornatum. C. erubescens is an- 
 other rare tropical species, having umbels of as many 
 as a dozen lily-like flowers of a claret-purple outside 
 and a soft pink inside with filaments of dark red. 
 It is a free bloomer of easy culture. C. Capense rosea 
 has the reputation of being the most easily grown of 
 any Crinum, and is quite hardy with protection as 
 far north as St. Louis. It is said to winter in the 
 cellar like a Dahlia. Farther north it should be given 
 the same care in winter as other varieties. The flow- 
 ers are numerous white flushed with rose with a pink 
 stripe through the centre, and more drooping than 
 the flower in other species. C. scabrum, often called 
 Christ and the Apostles, having thirteen flowers, 
 produces an abundance of pale-green foliage beauti- 
 fully waved and crimped. It has usually two flower 
 scapes at once, flowers much like the old Annunciation 
 Lily, but with a longer tube, so that the outer row 
 droops. The six broad petals are pure, sparkling 
 white with a light red stripe down the outside of 
 
Thirteen] 
 
 each and a pink one on the inside. This is one of 
 the most desirable varieties. C. fimbriatum Milk- 
 and-wine Lily is much like C. Kirkii in habit and 
 appearance, but smaller, the flowers being but three 
 or four inches in diameter, the foliage more erect 
 and sword-like. 
 
 C. pedunculatum grows to a magnificent size, fine 
 specimens averaging six feet in height and width. 
 Its flowers, of pure white with purple anthers, are 
 formed in umbels of thirty or more; the petals are 
 narrow and the flowers exquisitely fragrant. It has 
 a queer stump-like bulb which grows to an immense 
 size, and is an evergreen, producing its flowers at in- 
 tervals through the year like C. Americana, which 
 has also pure white, fragrant flowers, the petals long 
 and narrow. The latter, when in bloom, throws up 
 one immense spike in the centre of the foliage, giving 
 the plant the appearance of a great rounded bouquet. 
 It is a native of the Florida swamps, and should be 
 grown in muck with considerable moisture, blooming 
 best when pot-bound. C. grandolia, or augustum, is 
 the finest of all the Crinums: one grown in Florida 
 "with leaves six feet long and correspondingly wide, 
 with a crown of bloom the size of a bushel measure." 
 Its umbels of flowers, thirty or more in number, with 
 broad petals eight inches long, make a magnificent 
 display. The buds are a purplish-red, the flowers, 
 when open, a blood red outside and a delicate, satiny 
 flush inside. The bulbs grow to an immense size. 
 
162 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 C. Kunthianum, another of the large-growing 
 Crinums, is highly to be recommended for amateur 
 culture, being much more easily managed than either 
 ornatum or Kirkii. It is evergreen, and has broad 
 strap leaves of a bluish green that, in the house, are 
 held erect, and for this reason it presents the finest 
 appearance of all Crinums. It throws up a tall 
 spike crowned with ten or twelve large, lily-like flow- 
 ers of a rosy white with crimson stripes through the 
 petals. 
 
 The general treatment of Amaryllis is the same as 
 for Crinums. Disturb the roots as little as possible, 
 and give as complete seasons of rest as the plant seems 
 to require. When it is apparent that they are trying 
 to rest they should not be forced to grow, but aided 
 to sleep by judicious withholding of water, temper- 
 ing of the light, and the like. Evergreen Amaryllis, 
 like the Aulica platypetala, do not need these periods 
 of complete rest, but they need a partial rest, and as 
 long as no new leaves appear should be watered mod- 
 erately and the roots left undisturbed as long as pos- 
 sible. Remove all offshoots that have grown to any 
 size when the plant starts to grow and the top-soil 
 is being renewed, and pot them off in small pots an 
 inch larger than the bulbs. The number of fine hy- 
 brids have increased so rapidly of late years that it 
 is impossible to describe them separately, as many of 
 them are flaked and splashed with colour in a won- 
 derful manner. Of the old-time favourites it is 
 
Thirteen] BulfcOUSi $latltfi 163 
 
 doubtful if any excels the A. Johnsonii, and a collec- 
 tion of Amarylli might well begin with this. 
 
 Tuberoses should be started in a warm place where 
 they will not be exposed to draughts or chills. Be- 
 fore potting, take a sharp knife and remove all the 
 old root and hard substance about the base, leaving 
 but a thin layer below the bulb. Unless this is done, 
 growth will be either delayed or prevented, as the 
 new growth cannot push through this hard substance. 
 Pot singly in four-inch pots and keep moist and warm 
 until growth begins, when they may be given a posi- 
 tion in a sunny window, and encouraged to grow until 
 time for planting out in the open ground, after all 
 danger of frost is past. If it is not desired to plant 
 directly in the open ground they may be shifted into 
 six- or eight-inch pots and plunged in the ground. 
 They must be plunged to the brim, or over, and will 
 require more water than when growing in the ground. 
 If they are still blooming at the approach of frost 
 they may be lifted and removed to the house. Others 
 that have been bedded out may be lifted, potted, and 
 brought in, and will bloom as freely, though not as 
 quickly, as those in pots. Disturbing the roots does 
 not seem to interfere at all with the process of bloom. 
 
 The double pearl Tuberose blooms but once, and it 
 is hardly worth while, unless one has much room and 
 time, to try to bring the small bulbs forward to the 
 blooming stage, as they must be cultivated for two 
 or three summers and cared for for as many winters. 
 
164 The Flower Garden 
 
 The variegated leaved, however, blooms from year 
 to year, and should be taken up in the fall and stored 
 in a warm, dry place. This variety is single, but very 
 fragrant and pretty. Tuberoses do well in the Glad- 
 iolus bed, and their pure white spikes are very attract- 
 ive among the more brilliant flowers, but they should 
 be planted in clumps and not scattered among the 
 Gladioli. 
 
Chapter FOURTEEN 
 
 THERE is special delight in the cultiva- 
 tion of aquatics, due partly to the 
 novelty of the work, and partly to 
 the feeling of rest associated with 
 this particular branch of floriculture. 
 One can rarely go into the garden in the early sum- 
 mer without seeing something to do, a plant to be 
 trimmed, or a vine the wind has blown down, and 
 always plants needing water. When the lily pond is 
 reached, be it natural or artificial, one feels that here 
 there is rest, for an established lily pond seldom needs 
 care. In small tanks the water must be renewed 
 occasionally, but once a week will be sufficient. 
 
 Probably the simplest way of constructing a lily 
 pond where the lay of the land and soil are favour- 
 able, is to mark out a desired area, remove about two 
 feet of soil and turn the cattle on it. With stiff clay 
 soil this will in a few months give a bottom suffi- 
 ciently hard to hold water. Spread several inches of 
 muck and old manure on this prepared ground and 
 the place is ready for the water, which may be piped 
 
 165 
 
1 66 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 from a well or supplied by a wind-mill. Such a pond 
 has this advantage over one made of cement, that 
 semi-aquatic plants, such as Reeds and Bamboos, Jap- 
 anese Iris, Cardinal Flowers, and the native Flame 
 Lily may find a place on its banks and add greatly to 
 the beauty of the pond. 
 
 When one is so fortunate as to have a little stream 
 flowing through a corner of the grounds it can be 
 diverted to form a pond with sufficient current to pre- 
 vent stagnation, yet not enough to interfere with the 
 growing of water-plants. By selecting a low spot 
 beside the stream very little excavating will be nec- 
 essary, and the nature of the soil and force of the 
 water will decide what, if any, barrier may be needed. 
 Should the stream be some distance from the house 
 a shrubbery, hardy perennials, and an occasional tree 
 may lead up to the pond. If this is so fortunately 
 placed as to be on the north side of the grounds, so 
 that the sun lies on it when seen from the house, the 
 effect will be greatly heightened by a clump of ever- 
 greens on its northern shore, making a background 
 to arrest the eye and focus it on the lily pond. Where 
 the landscape is limited, a group of tall Bamboos is 
 effective at this point, and Japanese Iris may have a 
 place in the foreground; Sagittarias and ornamental 
 grasses may also be used with good results. 
 
 Where one lacks the advantage of natural condi- 
 tions a cement pond is a good substitute. It may 
 be expensively constructed with piping for water, 
 
WILD WATER FLOWERS FOR EDGING LILY-POND 
 
Fourteen] qttatCJ3 167 
 
 drainage, etc., or it may be made at a cost of from 
 five to thirty dollars, according to size. Five or six 
 by eight, or eight by ten or twelve feet, will be found 
 convenient sizes, as they will admit of reaching the 
 centre. The basin should be about two feet deep 
 when completed, and if of clay the soil should be 
 wet and made as hard and smooth as possible. If 
 the soil is loose and sandy it will need a coat of clay 
 before applying the cement. This may be done by 
 mixing the clay with water to the consistency of 
 mortar and applying in any convenient way. Allow 
 this to dry before using the cement. A neat curb- 
 ing will greatly improve the appearance of the 
 pond. 
 
 When the cement is perfectly dry, place six inches 
 of old, well-rotted manure in the bottom of the basin, 
 and cover with eight or ten inches of muck. Make 
 this smooth and level, and cover with one or two 
 inches of clean white sand to keep the water clear 
 and sightly and prevent the muck from rising to the 
 surface. Fill with hose or watering-pot, letting the 
 pond overflow until the water is clear and the sand 
 firm and smooth, when it is ready for plants. 
 
 When a permanent bed of this kind is out of the 
 question, a large zinc tub, or half a hogshead, will 
 make a small water-garden. These would better be 
 raised somewhat above the surface of the ground to 
 protect them from decay. Three small five-inch 
 drain-tiles laid sidewise make a good foundation, 
 
1 68 "The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 and a very pretty effect may be obtained by piling 
 rough stones around the tank. Fill in with earth and 
 cover with vines and plants suitable for a rockery. 
 If a tall Bamboo, or even a fine clump of Papyrus or 
 Umbrella-plant can be grown on the north side, so as 
 to overtop the tank without shutting off the sunshine, 
 it will add much to the general effect. The Lily pond 
 should have full sunshine, but be protected from 
 rough winds, as the leaves of large Lilies that stand 
 well above the water are easily injured. The Egyp- 
 tian Lotus is the finest of all Lilies suitable for grow- 
 ing in small ponds or tanks. These plants should be 
 purchased from growers, as they do not seed in this 
 country and the imported seed is uncertain. One 
 plant is sufficient for a tub or tank, as they increase 
 very rapidly and do better when not crowded. 
 
 One of these Lilies may be placed in the centre of 
 a small pond of ten feet or more, and other Lilies 
 grouped around the sides. Hardy Nymphasas may 
 be planted in the soil of the pond, while the more 
 tender Zanzibarenses should be planted in twelve- 
 inch pots and plunged in the tank, as these are not 
 hardy like the Nelumbiums, to which class the Lotus 
 belongs. Both the Egyptian and the American Lotus 
 are quite hardy in the open ground with a protection 
 of rough litter and boards. An interesting peculiarity 
 of the Lotus, by which it may be distinguished from 
 other Lilies when quite small or out of bloom, is that 
 water splashed on the leaves always rolls up into little 
 
Fourteen] UatCfi 169 
 
 drops like quicksilver instead of spreading over the 
 leaves, as on Nymphaeas and the like. 
 
 There are several varieties of Nymphaeas suitable 
 for amateur cultivation the Cape Cod Water Lily, 
 with its large, cup-shaped flowers of a lovely pink; T. 
 Richardson, probably the finest white variety; our 
 native Nymphaeas, and the lovely Zanzibar Lilies in 
 blue and crimson. These last are very easily raised 
 from seed, which, if planted early in February, will 
 give bloom by July, and may be wintered in a warm, 
 dry cellar. In a cold, damp cellar they rot. If grown 
 in tubs drain off the water at the approach of cold 
 weather, remove to the cellar and keep merely moist. 
 If grown in ponds it is better to plant them in pots, 
 which may be lifted and brought into the cellar for 
 the winter. Into a large bowl or crock put a few 
 inches of rich soil, cover with clean white sand and 
 turn on tepid water until it runs clear. Sow the lily 
 seed on the surface of the water; it will go to the 
 bottom when entirely wet and be more evenly distrib- 
 uted than would be the case were it sown on the soil 
 and the water turned over it. 
 
 Through the clear water the whole process of 
 germination may be watched. In six days a thread- 
 like sprout will have started from the swollen seed; 
 in six days more this thread-like shoot changes into 
 a tiny dart-shaped leaf; in another six a true leaf 
 comes upon the scene, a very small lily-pad, but giv- 
 ing promise of great performance. 
 
1 70 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 When the dish becomes crowded transplant into 
 other dishes, keeping plants out of water as short a 
 time as possible. When the nights are warm at 
 least 60 plant out in tubs or ponds. For the first 
 year an eight by ten foot pond may have a Nelum- 
 bium in the centre, two or three Zanzibar varieties 
 on either side, and pink and white Nymphaeas at the 
 end. If the plants have done well reduce the number 
 the second year. 
 
 Water Hyacinths are found interesting principally 
 because they are more or less of a novelty even at 
 the South, having been introduced from Venezuela 
 about fourteen years ago. This plant has already 
 proved itself a nuisance in the Florida rivers, seriously 
 interfering with navigation and calling for appropria- 
 tions from the Government for its destruction. In 
 house or garden cultivation the roots increase rapidly. 
 A small plant set in a tub in full sunshine in May 
 will fill it by August. The leaves form rosettes and 
 expand at the stem into a sort of bladder that sup- 
 ports the plant on the surface of the water. The 
 roots trail in the water until the plant is ready to 
 bloom, when they enter the soil. The flowers are a 
 pleasing shade of lavender with a yellow centre and 
 form in spikes like a Hyacinth. Paris green must not 
 be used in the water where the Hyacinths are grown, 
 but lumps of charcoal and a small quantity of kero- 
 sene may be substituted. 
 
 A few Water Poppies holding their bright yellow 
 
A FULL BLOWN CAT-TAIL 
 
Fourteen] ^QUattCS '7' 
 
 cups well above the surface of the water are always 
 attractive, and Parrot's Feather trailing over the sides 
 of the tub gives a bit of tender green through the 
 summer, but the rockwork, with ferns and plants and 
 a tall reed or two, makes a much tidier appearance. 
 The Papyrus the plant from which our first paper 
 was made is very effective and will grow wherever 
 a Canna thrives, though it prefers a low, damp soil. 
 It must be wintered in greenhouse or cellar. A well- 
 developed clump will grow to a height of ten feet. 
 Several varieties of Bamboo, to be had from South 
 Florida nurseries, will do well in the North in sum- 
 mer and stand a considerable degree of cold. Bam- 
 busa arundinacea is a magnificent quick-growing sort 
 from forty to sixty feet tall at maturity, and will 
 stand considerable frost. B. aurea and B. Metake 
 are hardy with good protection at the North. B. 
 Metake is a handsome evergreen species of consider- 
 able decorative value for indoor culture, growing six 
 feet tall with large, handsome foliage, while A. fal- 
 cata is a pretty variety with the tiniest of leaves. 
 Bamboo requires an abundant water-supply, and is 
 therefore most suitable for the borders of natural 
 ponds, or low, damp spots on the grounds. 
 
 The objection raised to ponds is that they breed 
 mosquitoes and malaria and are likely to become 
 offensive. So will anything that is neglected, but 
 there is not the slightest reason for the lily pond 
 becoming a nuisance in any way. A small amount 
 
1 72 The Flower Garden 
 
 of Paris green in the water a teaspoonful to an 
 eight-foot pond will keep it perfectly clear and 
 sweet and prevent the formation of green scum and 
 moss, so offensive in stagnant water, and the breeding 
 of mosquitoes. Or a little charcoal and kerosene will 
 give the same results. 
 
NATIVE PLANTS EDGING A NATURAL WATER GARDEN 
 
Chapter FIFTEEN 
 
 C|je Care of nje Rummer 
 
 THE old-fashioned June Roses, with their 
 long season of flowerless bloom, hard- 
 ly repay the trouble of raising. The 
 hardy perpetuals and hybrid Teas may 
 now be purchased so cheaply that, 
 even though a large proportion of them should not 
 survive the winter, a small outlay will replace them. 
 The thorniness of the old hardy June Rose adds 
 greatly to the labour of caring for them, and this 
 alone would lead some to discard them. 
 
 If, however, one clings to the old-fashioned Roses 
 from economy or sentiment, they should be grown to 
 their fullest possibilities by pruning, cultivation, and 
 liberal mulching with coarse manure in the fall, and 
 lawn clippings in the summer. Pruning should be 
 done late in the winter or early in the spring before 
 the sap begins to run. Remove all weak and straggly 
 branches, cutting back the new growth to the first 
 strong leaf-buds on the shoot. It is well to cut out 
 the centres, as the new growth will quickly fill the 
 space anc} be stronger and better in every way for the 
 
 173 
 
174 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 removal of the old wood. It will also leave less wood 
 and briers to collect and hold dead leaves and grass 
 during winter, which must be taken out, at the ex- 
 pense of bleeding fingers, in the spring. Bushes which 
 grow upright with little wood at the base are more 
 easily cared for. Only strong, new growths should 
 be left, which will break freely and give firm new 
 wood, producing fine flowers. Breaking means the 
 starting of young leaf-buds at the axils of each leaf, 
 which sprout and form new branches. It is the new 
 wood that bears the flowers, so that its growth should 
 be encouraged. The fewer shoots allowed to grow 
 the finer will be the flowers. 
 
 Cultivate thoroughly in spring and fall and give 
 a heavy mulch of lawn clippings during summer. 
 Mulch heavily with coarse manure in the fall, digging 
 in the best of it in the spring. It is not necessary to 
 give winter protection, though it is best to wrap the 
 tops with straw when exposed to cold winds. 
 
 Hardy climbers should have all weak shoots re- 
 moved, and branches that are too long shortened. 
 Thin out a part of the canes to give room for air and 
 growth, and remove all wood that has grown too hard 
 to break, as it will produce no new wood and is only 
 an incumbrance. 
 
 For the summer rose-bed nothing equals the Hy- 
 brid Teas, which bloom from June until frost. If 
 young plants are purchased in the spring they may be 
 bedded out at once, if sent by express with the ball of 
 
Fifteen] Rummer &ose-beli 
 
 earth about their roots intact. If sent by mail it will 
 be better to pot off in three-inch pots, and set in a cool, 
 rather shady place for a few days, bringing grad- 
 ually into the sunshine until they have become estab- 
 lished, when they may be turned out into the open 
 ground without disturbing their roots. If planted at 
 once in the open ground, the more delicate ones would 
 be likely to perish. 
 
 Give the rose-bed a sunny, protected situation, 
 using a soil of good garden loam, clay, and old, well- 
 rotted manure, made deep and mellow. If the plants 
 are the small mail-order size set one foot apart each 
 way, planting according to directions for transplant- 
 ing, and make the soil 'very firm and hard about their 
 roots. Cultivate frequently, or mulch with lawn 
 clippings, working them in as they decay. Liquid 
 manure must not be given until the plants are grow- 
 ing 'vigorously, when it may be applied once or twice 
 a week. More plants are injured by the injudicious 
 use of fertilisers than in any other way. 
 
 If two-year-old plants are purchased, set from 
 eighteen inches to two feet apart each way. See that 
 each plant has a zinc or wooden label securely fast- 
 ened to it, or, what is better, make a list in their 
 regular order, or a diagram of the bed in a note- 
 book. This permanent memorandum will enable you 
 to be sure of the name of any particular Rose. 
 
 Cut Roses with a liberal amount of the stem, and 
 only enough pruning will be needed to keep them in 
 
176 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 good shape and remove any weak growth. It is a 
 good plan to cut them down to a bud that will be 
 likely to throw a good shoot. Hardy Perpetuals or 
 monthly Roses often fail to give more than a few 
 early spring flowers at the tips of the branches. If 
 the plants are in good condition, and the branches of 
 some length, peg the ends down to the ground with 
 a clothes-pin or stick, as the tendency in Rose growth 
 is for new wood to start from the highest point. 
 Bending the end down brings the highest point at 
 the middle of the branch, which will then break and 
 bloom. 
 
 Roses, especially the old hardy kinds, will often 
 refuse to bloom, though well cared for and sufficiently 
 pruned. In such cases root-pruning may be resorted 
 to by cutting down on two sides of the plant with 
 the spade and severing a part of the roots. This will 
 often induce bloom when all other methods fail. 
 Plants occasionally run to roots as well to tops. 
 
 So many and varied are the insect enemies that a 
 hardy Rose, with even fair foliage, is rare during the 
 season of bloom, unless ceaseless warfare has been 
 waged from the first swelling of the buds. Slugs, 
 rose thrip or hopper, and rose-bugs make the life of 
 the rose-grower a weariness. On this account alone I 
 would recommend discarding the June Roses in favour 
 of the Teas, which are fairly free from these pests. 
 Their dark-green, healthy foliage is a striking con- 
 trast to the worm-eaten, rusty foliage of the hardy 
 
TRAINING A CLIMBING ROSE 
 
177 
 
 Rose. The only weakness they show is an occasional 
 tendency to mildew, and this may be avoided by giv- 
 ing an airy, sunny situation, setting far enough apart 
 to insure free circulation of air, and watering early 
 that the foliage may dry before the chill of night. 
 The remedy is flowers of sulphur dusted over the 
 leaves. 
 
 Rose-slugs are small green worms that feed on the 
 foliage, lying on the under side of the leaves, which 
 they roll around them or draw together with a slight 
 web. The remedy is to spray the under side of the 
 foliage with kerosene emulsion, or with hot water 
 heated to 140, being careful to reach every part, or 
 to go over the plant leaf by leaf, pinching the leaves 
 between the fingers and crushing them. The rose 
 hopper, or thrip, is a small, yellowish-white insect 
 feeding on the under side of the leaves, sucking their 
 juice and causing them to turn yellow. The best 
 remedy is the whale-oil solution sprayed on the under 
 side. For rose bugs, or beetles, spraying with Paris 
 green is quite effective, but it must be used promptly, 
 as the amount of injury they can do in a short time 
 is remarkable. After using an insecticide, the plants 
 should be thoroughly sprayed with clear water, and 
 if treated with Paris green label them, that no one 
 may be poisoned by eating the rose-leaves. Roses for 
 pillows should not be gathered from plants that have 
 had any kind of poison used on them. 
 
 Roses kept in the house during winter are some- 
 
178 The Flower Garden 
 
 times attacked with green lice. They may be treated 
 with tobacco in some of its forms, or with hot water 
 dipping the entire plant in a pail of water heated 
 to 130. I prefer the hot-water treatment, as it 
 leaves the plant clean and invigorated. Few, if any, 
 plants are injured by it, and most are benefited. 
 Where there is any question of the effect on a partic- 
 ular plant a single branch may be dipped as an experi- 
 ment. It is difficult to make any choice of Roses 
 where all are so beautiful. American Beauty is prob- 
 ably the most popular crimson Rose to-day. The 
 Bride stands first among the whites. Kaiserin 
 Augusta Victoria is a most desirable hardy white, and 
 the new rose, Virginia R. Coxe also offered under 
 the name of Gruss an Teplitz is one of the most 
 desirable reds; a profuse and constant bloomer with 
 loose-petalled, medium-sized flowers of the richest 
 scarlet, shading to glowing velvety crimson. Among 
 the climbers Mrs. Robert Perry is the finest, an im- 
 mense, pure, creamy white, quite hardy, and a free 
 and constant bloomer, valuable for cut flowers. 
 
 If one has room for a hundred varieties it is easy 
 to select that number with the certainty that there 
 need not be a poor Rose among the number. 
 
Chapter SIXTEEN 
 
 THERE is no better investment for the 
 garden than a bed of hardy Lilies, 
 which should be started in the fall as 
 early as the bulbs may be had. This 
 is often later than is desirable, but the 
 matter is entirely beyond control. The best that can 
 be done is to get orders for foreign-grown bulbs placed 
 early in the fall. It is not necessary to wait for the 
 new catalogue, as the old will give the varieties and 
 approximate cost. The main thing is to get in 
 the order early that it may be filled promptly when 
 the bulbs arrive. Orders received last are filled last. 
 This means not only considerable delay, but second 
 choice in bulbs; the first-comers secure the best, the 
 last must take the cullings. 
 
 Having ordered your bulbs, proceed at once to 
 make your beds. Better results are obtained by plant- 
 ing Lilies in beds with fibrous-rooted plants, hardy 
 shrubs, and perennials that do not need frequent dis- 
 turbing. The Lily is very impatient of moisture, and 
 water standing around the- roots in winter is absolutely 
 fatal. A raised bed of Peonies affords favourable 
 
 179 
 
i8o The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 conditions, provided there is sufficient room between 
 the plants for the Lilies to increase from year to year, 
 as once planted they should not be disturbed. If the 
 Lily-bed is to be by itself an angle of a building, or a 
 portion of the grounds protected by trees, or adjacent 
 shrubbery, on the west and north, should be chosen. 
 Such a site, if well drained, will give good results. 
 The bed should be dug deep and mellow, and enriched 
 with old, well-rotted manure. Strict attention must 
 be paid to this point only old, well-decomposed 
 manure must be used. The bed should be sufficiently 
 rounded to shed water. Lilium candidum will be 
 ready to ship in August, and should be planted as soon 
 as received. All Lilies are greatly injured by expos- 
 ure to air, and if it is necessary to keep them out of 
 the ground for any length of time they should be well 
 wrapped in tissue-paper, or otherwise protected. The 
 Japanese protect their great auratum Lily bulbs from 
 the air by encasing them in a ball of clay before start- 
 ing them on their long journey to the far West. Can- 
 didum Lilies make a fall growth of leaves, and must 
 be planted early; no other Lily is as hardy and satis- 
 factory with us as this. They should be planted four 
 inches deep and a foot apart each way, that they may 
 have room to increase, and left undisturbed for years. 
 The soil may be made very rich with manure, but 
 none of it should touch the Lily bulbs. Make a hole 
 of sufficient depth and size, put an inch or more of 
 sand on the bottom, place the bulbs on this and fill 
 
Sixteen] 
 
 up with the sand, packing it closely all around the 
 bulb. 
 
 Of the Japanese Lilies, rubrum is most easily 
 grown here and should be planted eight to ten inches 
 deep. Planted deep they are not injured by thawing 
 and freezing, but when too near the surface the frost 
 often throws the bulbs out of the ground. Lilies are 
 not injured so much by freezing as by sudden and 
 frequent thawings. 
 
 As long as the rubrum is doing well it should not 
 be disturbed, but if it suddenly fails to grow and 
 bloom the bulbs should be taken up when dormant, 
 and cleansed. Remove all decayed scales and look 
 for worm-nests, which are usually the source of the 
 trouble. Ants sometimes make nests in the Lily bulb 
 in the spring, and cause the top to decay. When this 
 occurs it should be lifted, cleaned, and reset in a place 
 free from ants. The greatest care must be exercised 
 in cleaning bulbs not to injure the sound scales, as 
 that will only induce further decay. 
 
 All the speciosum Lilies are exceedingly beautiful. 
 L. Album is one of the finest; its reflexed flowers are 
 a clear, sparkling white with a green band through 
 the centre of each petal, and a peculiar glistening ap- 
 pearance, as though covered with water. It is one 
 of the most easily grown of the speciosum family. 
 S. Roseum is another handsome variety, white flushed 
 with rose, and with dull crimson spots on the white 
 ground; while S. rubrum has large reflexed petals of 
 
i8a The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 frosted white, heavily bearded and spotted with rich 
 crimson, with many glistening points of white. Aside 
 from the speciosum Lilies there are many other fine 
 Japanese Lilies, the auratums easily leading in size 
 and beauty. While Krameri is a tube-shaped Lily of 
 a soft pink; longiflorum has lovely trumpets of pure 
 white; the wonderful Lilium giganteum, six to ten 
 feet high, sends up immense clusters of twelve to 
 twenty creamy white flowers, with purple throat. 
 Washingtonianum is another tall variety bearing 
 large clusters of delicate white flowers spotted with 
 black, and the grand and rare Brownii shows a choco- 
 late-purple outside with a creamy interior. The list 
 is long, but with a generous planting of well-selected 
 varieties a succession of bloom may be had from the 
 first blooming longiflorums and candidums in June 
 until auratum and the late speciosums cast their ivory 
 petals in September. 
 
 The general treatment of all is the same: deep 
 planting, keeping the manure from actual contact with 
 the bulbs by packing in sand; well-drained soil and 
 the presence of fibrous-rooted or perennial plants near 
 enough to absorb the surplus water from the soil. 
 During the hot weather, give a heavy mulch of lawn 
 clippings brought well up around the stems, and wa- 
 ter as needed. If planted deep they will hardly re- 
 quire staking, as the stalks send out surface roots 
 which not only afford nourishment, but also act as a 
 brace to the plant and hold it firmly in its place. 
 
M 
 
 Q > 
 
Sixteen] tf W jjel 183 
 
 A heavy mulch of old manure and rough litter 
 should be given in the winter, and the bed protected 
 with leaves and evergreen boughs, or anything that 
 will shed water. 
 
 Spring-planted bulbs rarely do well. It is better 
 to plant after severe cold weather sets in than to wait 
 until spring. As long as the ground can be worked 
 they may be planted safely, but they should be set 
 eight or ten inches deep. I have planted them late in 
 December when the ground had to be broken with 
 an axe and have had excellent success. 
 
 The planting of hardy Lilies should be done on a 
 scale limited only by one's means and the ground at 
 command. A few new and rare sorts should be added 
 every year. In this way a magnificent collection will, 
 in time, be acquired, as they increase very rapidly 
 under favourable conditions, and the larger the clumps 
 of one kind the finer the effect, so that each variety 
 should be given abundant room to spread and develop. 
 
 It is often stated that Lilies left to themselves place 
 their bulbs near the surface. Such bulbs are the small 
 ones that form on the blossom stalk above the main 
 bulb, and lie near the surface from force of circum- 
 stances. The main bulb sends its offshoots deep in 
 the ground, as in the case of our native Lilies, which 
 are almost impossible to dig. Especially is this the 
 case with the native Flame Lily, the bulb of which I 
 have never been able to reach with a trowel. Travel- 
 lers in Japan report various native Lilies growing in 
 
184 The Flower Garden 
 
 forests among the interlacing roots of the trees, quite 
 out of the reach of any small tools. There the 
 auratum Lily grows on wooded hillsides where the 
 drainage is perfect, and the falling leaves give a deep 
 mulch at all times, and supply the best of nourish- 
 ment, leaf-mould, and the roots of the trees absorb all 
 superfluous moisture. 
 
Chapter SEVENTEEN 
 
 Care of Cannae Calatuum& 
 Bajjltasi, an* $fl)er 
 
 Fall Bulbs, Tulips, Hyacinths, Crocus, 
 Scillas, and the Like 
 
 THE first hard frost in September about 
 the 2Oth inst. at the North is usu- 
 ally followed by a few weeks of mel- 
 low fall weather. If one has been so 
 fortunate as to have saved Cannas, 
 Caladiums, and other tender bulbous plants by night 
 protection or by turning the hose on very early in 
 the morning before the sun reaches them, they will 
 grow and ripen well in these last warm days. These 
 sudden falls of temperature usually find the gardener 
 unprepared, and unless water is at hand plants will be 
 cut down by frost. When this happens remove, with 
 a sharp knife, the frozen portions, and consign to the 
 compost heap. If allowed to remain, these not only 
 give the yard a most untidy appearance, but the decay 
 
 185 
 
1 86 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 is likely to extend to the bulbs. The plants may then 
 be left to ripen in the ground for several days, accord- 
 ing to the weather, or the necessity of preparing the 
 ground for other plants. 
 
 Dig all roots to be saved on a warm, sunny day, 
 and dry in the sun for several days if the weather is 
 fair and warm. Cover with blankets at night or leave 
 them on the floor of a sunny room until the earth 
 about their roots is dry, pack in boxes of dry earth 
 or sand, and store in a dry, frost-proof cellar. 
 
 Dahlias and the common tall Canna are easily win- 
 tered in a warm, dry cellar. The large Orchid-flow- 
 ered Cannas are much more difficult to winter, and are 
 very apt to dry-rot under the most favourable circum- 
 stances. I have found laying on the ground (under 
 the steam-pipes where they are run outside the cellar) 
 and covering with dry earth a very good way of han- 
 dling them. They should be examined occasionally, 
 and if they seem too dry sprinkle with water. If the 
 Caladium bulbs show any decay of the centre-shoot all 
 the decayed parts should be pulled off down to sound 
 tissue. Parts of Cannas broken in digging should be 
 removed with a sharp knife. Where there is but a 
 small quantity of roots, shave off the dirt and wrap 
 the tuber in tissue-paper. Store on a shelf in a closet, 
 or other convenient frost-proof place. There is no 
 more uncertain root to carry through the winter. 
 Florists often lose their entire stock by decay or dry- 
 rot, and were it not for this the Canna would soon 
 
Seventeen] % Cat0 Of 38Ull)Si 187 
 
 become a drug on the market, and only novelties have 
 a sale. 
 
 Dahlias are much more easily wintered, doing well 
 in any cellar that will keep potatoes in first-class con- 
 dition. All roots wintered in cellars should be placed 
 on elevated shelves or tables away from the low tem- 
 perature of the floor on a swinging shelf, if the cel- 
 lar is frequented by rats and mice. 
 
 Gladioli will keep perfectly if stored in flour-sacks 
 and hung from a beam or post near the ceiling. 
 Montbretias may be wintered in the same way. 
 
 When the Cannas, Caladiums, and other summer 
 plants are out of the way the beds may be prepared 
 for the fall planting of bulbs for early spring bloom- 
 ing. The vacant foliage-beds on the lawn offer the 
 best place, as the bulbs will have played their part and 
 passed on by the time these are needed again for the 
 summer occupants. 
 
 If the beds have been lowered owing to limited wa- 
 ter-supply haul on a few wheel-barrow loads of very 
 old manure and earth, and mix thoroughly with the 
 soil, raising them sufficiently to shed water. If per- 
 manent bulb beds are preferred (which may be planted 
 with annuals in the summer) choose an exposure 
 slanting toward the south, if possible, as this will in- 
 sure earlier flowers. See that the soil has good natural 
 drainage, or, if this is lacking, supply it by excavating 
 to a depth of eighteen to thirty inches, and placing 
 several inches of broken stone or crockery in the bot- 
 
188 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 torn for drainage. Return the soil to the bed, making 
 it mellow and fine. The earlier the bulbs are planted 
 the more roots will be started before the ground 
 freezes, but late fall or winter planting, providing the 
 ground is not frozen, is preferable to spring plant- 
 ing. Spring-planted bulbs rarely amount to anything, 
 having lost much of their vitality by being so long 
 out of the ground. 
 
 A bed facing the south is warmer and earlier than 
 any other, hence it is sometimes liable to a set-back 
 if not actual injury from a sudden sharp frost 
 after the plants have started in the spring, and the 
 litter should not be wholly removed until it is entirely/ 
 safe to do so. An ideal bed for early bulbs would be 
 one on the south side of the house, sloping slightly 
 toward the south, with a frame around it somewhat 
 higher at the back, over which a canvas attached to 
 hooks could be drawn on cold nights and days. The 
 frame should be made so that it could be readily 
 lifted on the approach of warm weather. 
 
 Hyacinths, Tulips, and Narcissi look far better 
 when planted each in a bed by themselves, as they are 
 not at all in harmony. Plant Hyacinths seven inches 
 apart and four inches deep, either in beds of vivid col- 
 ours without other order than a regular distance apart, 
 or according to some colour arrangement or geomet- 
 rical design. Tulips should be planted four inches 
 apart each way and four inches deep. A good ar- 
 rangement is to draw lines across the bed forming 
 
Seventeen] 1&t &U Of 3$UH)0 i9 
 
 squares four inches for Tulips, seven for Hyacinths 
 and set a bulb at each corner. The centre of the 
 square may be filled with Crocus or Scillas, which will 
 have finished blooming before the larger flowers are 
 out. Only Tulips of the same height and season of 
 bloom should be set together. 
 
 Scillas and Crocus together make a bed that can 
 hardly be surpassed in bulb planting. The effect is 
 best where only the white Crocus is blended with the 
 blue of the Scillas. 
 
 Protect the bulb beds with rough manure, leaves, 
 and evergreen boughs during winter. Remove the 
 protection gradually in the spring, and leave the finest 
 of the manure to enrich the soil. 
 
 When through blooming in the spring, and the 
 foliage has ripened, the bulbs may be lifted, dried, 
 and stored away in a cool place until fall. All these 
 bulbs increase rapidly, both by multiplying and by 
 seed. Neglected beds of Tulips seem to multiply and 
 perpetuate themselves indefinitely, but the new plants 
 will be found to be all from seed, as the Tulip forms 
 its new bulbs at the base of the old, and if they were 
 not frequently taken up and reset they would grow 
 so deep in the ground that all the strength of the plant 
 would be exhausted reaching the surface, and there 
 would be no bloom. The seedlings make robust 
 plants, and do not deteriorate materially. 
 
 The seed formation of the Crocus is very interest- 
 ing. If dug a few weeks after its season of bloom 
 
190 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 is over, under the ground, below the blossom, the 
 stem will be found to have expanded into a long 
 chamber or cell as large around as a lead-pencil and 
 an inch or more in length. Open this and it will be 
 found full of exquisite pink pearls; these are the 
 seeds. As they ripen they become nearly black, the 
 cell bursts, and the earth receives them. The Scilla 
 lengthens its flower-stems until they lie on the ground, 
 forming large seed-pods filled with white pearls. 
 When the plants are taken up, if these little seeds 
 are saved the stock will increase much more rap- 
 idly. 
 
 The beds are often wanted for other plants before 
 the foliage has had time to ripen. In that case the 
 bulbs may be lifted and heeled-in, in some out-of-the- 
 way place, until ripe, care being taken to preserve 
 the seed-pods. Heeling-in means digging a shallow 
 trench, laying in the roots of the plants in a row, and 
 covering them with earth. They must be lifted when 
 ripe and not allowed to grow. 
 
 A pretty way to grow the Scilla, Crocus, and Snow- 
 drop is to scatter them on the lawn in the grass, plant- 
 ing singly or in clumps. Lift the sod with the 
 trowel and slip the bulbs under, right side up, leaving 
 them to care for themselves. Plant hundreds in this 
 way; they will be through blooming by the time the 
 grass needs cutting. 
 
 The various varieties of Narcissi should be planted 
 in permanent beds or borders, where they need not be 
 
Seventeen] 1&fyt CEtC Of 
 
 disturbed except as it is necessary to divide them. 
 They should be set four inches deep and twelve inches 
 apart each way, that they may have room to increase. 
 The new bulbs of Narcissi form in a cluster around 
 the old, and unless allowed to develop freely will not 
 bloom. If set the proper distance apart they will need 
 to be taken up but once in four years. Do not wait 
 for them to show signs of a crowded condition, but 
 move on schedule time, and keep them blooming con- 
 tinuously. All the Narcissi, except the Polyanthus, 
 are hardy, and all are lovely especially the large 
 trumpet sorts. Emperor and Empress, Horsfieldi, and 
 Sir Watkin are especially good in the open grounds. 
 Poeticus, P. ornatus, Alba plena, Odorata, and Von 
 Sion all make beautiful borders. 
 
 There are a few other bulbs for fall planting that 
 are hardy all over the country. The Chionodoxa, 
 Glory of the Snow, is a recent introduction from 
 Asia Minor. Like the Scilla it is blue, a rare and 
 desirable colour in spring flowers. Winter Aconite, 
 with its tiny, golden-yellow flowers, the first of the 
 spring; Wood Hyacinths, Dog-tooth Violets, Fritil- 
 larias, Crown Imperials, and Snowdrops are all worth 
 a place. 
 
 The bulbs advertised by the seedsmen as hardy in 
 a temperature like that of Philadelphia may not prove 
 hardy in Canada, Michigan, Northern Illinois, Min- 
 nesota, Wisconsin, Dakota, and this must be borne in 
 mind when purchasing same. The safest way, when in 
 
192 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 doubt, is to address a letter of inquiry to the dealer 
 offering the plants, in regard to suitability for your 
 particular climate. 
 
 Bulbs for winter blooming. I have come to the 
 conclusion that almost anything will grow and blos- 
 som if given the proper care. For the amateur, whose 
 only field is the sitting-room window, it is better to 
 undertake only those varieties with which one may be 
 sure of success under ordinary care, as the Hyacinth, 
 Narcissus, Scilla, Crocus, Anemone, Ornithogalum 
 arabicum, and Freesia. These are absolutely sure 
 bloomers, and much more reliable in the matter of 
 producing flowers than a Geranium. In selecting 
 Hyacinths the single will generally give better satis- 
 faction than the double, and there should always be a 
 generous proportion of white among the colours se- 
 lected. Alba superbissima, Baroness Van Thuyl, and 
 La Grandesse are among the best whites; Norma 
 gigantea, Roi des Beiges for pinks and reds; Ida is 
 the best yellow ; and Czar Peter and Grand Lilas the 
 best blues. 
 
 Among the Narcissi nothing finer than the large 
 trumpet varieties could be desired: Horsfieldi, with 
 its yellow trumpet and snow-white perianth ; Sir Wat- 
 kin, or the Giant Welshman, as it is sometimes called; 
 Empress and Emperor and the clustered Paper White 
 are all exquisite ; and the old double Von Sion is most 
 effective in the window-garden. 
 
 Hyacinths and Narcissi require the same treatment : 
 
Seventeen] t Catt Of 38tll&2> '93 
 
 Pot as early in the fall as they can be obtained, using 
 good compost and sufficient broken charcoal to insure 
 good drainage ; fill to within an inch of the top with 
 the soil, using a four-inch pot for a single bulb or a 
 six-inch one for three bulbs. Place the bulb with the 
 tip slightly above the surface of the soil, label plainly 
 with name and date of planting, and set away in a 
 dark box in the cellar for six weeks or more, or until 
 the pot is well filled with roots ; this can be ascertained 
 by turning the ball of earth out of the pot. If the 
 earth is not well covered with roots return to the box 
 for a few days longer. If there is sufficient root 
 growth place in a warm, sunny window in a temper- 
 ature of about 70. When first potted they should 
 be well watered, and thereafter kept merely moist, 
 but on bringing to the light and heat they should have 
 water in the saucer most of the time. When the 
 flowers are fully expanded they may be moved into a 
 cooler, less sunny window, where they will remain in 
 perfection much longer. 
 
 Anemones give beautiful winter blossoms and re- 
 quire practically the same treatment as Hyacinths. 
 The bulbs are placed an inch and a half below the 
 surface. They are queer, shrivelled-up little things, 
 with roots which fill up surprisingly after being in 
 the damp soil. When up and growing they require 
 abundant water and sunshine. Keep the saucer full 
 of water all the time; failure in this respect means 
 blasted buds. As Anemones give a succession of 
 
194 "The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 flowers they must be left in the window until through 
 blooming. Tulips, Crocus, and Scillas should be 
 potted and placed out of doors where they will not 
 be disturbed, covered with earth and left until freez- 
 ing weather, when they should be stored in the cellar 
 like other bulbs. It is well in placing bulbs out of. 
 doors to set the pots in beds of coal-ashes to prevent 
 the entrance of worms into the soil. They may be 
 covered with ashes instead of earth, the object being 
 to give them the benefit of the frost. 
 
 A half dozen Scillas planted in the centre of one 
 of the large round gourds and surrounded with a bor- 
 der of white Crocus makes a very pretty show, and 
 will come into bloom in about three months from the 
 time of planting. The Ornithogalum is an effective 
 flower, and quite sure to bloom, but requires a rather 
 high temperature, as it is of slow development. 
 
 Freesia bulbs deteriorate very rapidly once they 
 are out of the ground, and should be ordered early 
 and potted as soon as received. Plant a dozen in a 
 five- or six-inch pot, and set at once in a warm east 
 window, as these do not need to go to the cellar. 
 The leaves and stalks are very tender, and will re- 
 quire support, and this is the greatest objection to the 
 Freesia. Ashes in the soil will counteract this ten- 
 dency somewhat, and the wire carnation supports are 
 very neat and satisfactory. 
 
 Alliums, which have the same defects, require the 
 same treatment. 
 
Seventeen] <& Catt Of 
 
 '95 
 
 The varieties of Oxalis are usually started in a 
 sunny window, as they require a strong light. Like 
 the summer bloomers, they increase rapidly and need 
 considerable root room. The Bermuda Oxalis is 
 lovely in a gourd hanging-basket; indeed, a hanging- 
 basket, or bracket, is the only suitable arrangement 
 for it, as it loves to droop and spread itself, and re- 
 quires abundant room for its wealth of golden flowers. 
 When through blooming it should be allowed to ripen 
 its foliage. It may then be set in the cellar, or a cool 
 place, until September, when the bulbs should be 
 shaken out of the pot and repotted; one bulb to a 
 four-inch pot. 
 
 Bulbs of hardy plants may be ripened off, and in 
 the spring planted out in the open ground, where they 
 will bloom the following spring, but are valueless for 
 forcing in the house. 
 
 OF THE 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF 
 
Chapter EIGHTEEN 
 
 ^bru&fi an* Pants for 
 jfall Panting 
 
 IN some localities, especially in the South, the 
 practice of setting out hardy plants in the 
 fall has much to commend it. The mild 
 winters, during which growth is never en- 
 tirely checked, allow the plants to fully es- 
 tablish themselves ; but in the Northern States, 
 where the severe winters set in early and last long, 
 the plants do not become sufficiently established to 
 stand the severe cold followed by the hot summer. 
 They sometimes live through the one only to suc- 
 cumb to the other. 
 
 Plants moved from one part of the grounds to 
 another will frequently winter-kill, while those left 
 undisturbed will be found in excellent condition in 
 the spring. Again, a plant may come through the 
 winter in apparently good condition, but without suf- 
 ficient vitality to withstand any severe heat or drought, 
 and failure to recognise this condition results in loss. 
 Plants transplanted in the fall, however hardy their 
 character, should receive particular care during the 
 
 196 
 
& plants 
 
 following summer in the matter of water, cultivation, 
 and mulching. Plants transplanted at any time of 
 year will do better if the top growth is reduced by 
 trimming or cutting back, and all broken or injured 
 roots removed with a sharp knife. 
 
 Spring-planted shrubs rarely fail to do well if the 
 precaution is observed of moving them while dor- 
 mant. The only exception I need to mention being 
 the various Irises when purchased from florists. 
 These, being dug in the fall, and kept in cold storage 
 during winter, have their vitality much depleted by 
 spring, and are then of doubtful value. This is es- 
 pecially true of the Japanese Iris; the German and 
 English, being much more hardy, are not so easily 
 injured. Home-grown Iris would better be moved 
 in the spring. 
 
 Among the desirable shrubs for fall or spring plant- 
 ing are the various Spiraeas; these are both shrubby 
 and herbaceous. Of the shrubby variety Anthony 
 Waterer is the only really good crimson, or red, va- 
 riety, and is very fine. The catalogues give it a dwarf 
 character rarely exceeding eighteen inches, but my 
 own experience with the plant is, that with rich soil 
 it much exceeds that height. Van Houttei is the finest 
 white sort, and is especially valuable grown singly on 
 the lawn, where it may develop its beautiful form to 
 perfection. Of the herbaceous Spiraeas the filipen- 
 dula is very desirable for the border or for edging 
 shrubbery. The fern-like foliage, which is of itself 
 
198 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 handsome enough to gain recognition, is surmounted 
 in June with spikes of double daisy-like flowers of 
 creamy white. It is very fine for cut flowers, and for 
 forcing in winter. The clumps increase rapidly, and 
 should be divided and reset every three or four years. 
 Then there is the old-fashioned garden Spiraea, with 
 its pinky-white, feathery blossoms, very fragrant 
 especially when wet with the dew. 
 
 Hypericum Moserianum is a delightful little per- 
 ennial, growing from one to two feet tall; the 
 flowers are exquisite in form and colour a clear, 
 golden yellow lasting well when cut. Other hardy 
 yellow flowers are the California Sunflower and 
 Rudbeckia, or Golden Glow, both too well known and 
 popular to need eulogy. 
 
 The Lychnis (Rose Campion) is another of our 
 herbaceous perennials which has not attracted the 
 notice its good qualities deserve. L. Chalcedonica, 
 its trusses of scarlet rivalling the most vivid Geranium, 
 is the best known of the species, and combines beauti- 
 fully with Clematis flammula and Spiraea filipendula. 
 Planted against a wall covered with the Clematis, or 
 contrasted in the border with S. Japonica, it is very 
 effective. Plant L. semperflorens plenissima with 
 Deutzia gracilis and Spiraea filipendula. Planted 
 together in the border they are exquisite. L. semper- 
 florens is much more delicate than the other Lychnis, 
 and cannot be considered entirely hardy at the North. 
 It is a very dainty little flower with soft pink, finely 
 
Eighteen] atj tUS 199 
 
 toothed blossoms, and worth considerable trouble to 
 grow. Viscaria (Ragged Robin) has tall spikes of 
 double red, deliciously scented flowers, and should 
 find a place in every garden. Chalcedonica resem- 
 bles the scarlet variety except in colour, which is pure 
 white. It also is quite hardy and needs little care 
 when once established. 
 
 Plant Iris (Fleur-de-lis) generously. They will 
 grow in size and beauty from year to year, and are 
 valuable for borders along drives or walks, for the 
 filling of corners or low, damp spots. By planting 
 the different varieties a succession of bloom, from 
 May until the latter part of July, may be secured. 
 The German Iris furnishes some magnificent colour 
 effects in purple and bronze, yellow and lavender, 
 blue and white. The Japanese are wonderful, both 
 in colour and size flowers seven inches in diameter 
 being quite common, while twelve inches is attained in 
 some instances. The flowers differ so materially in 
 form from other Iris as to appear a distinct class. 
 Unlike the German Iris, they hold their petals neither 
 erect nor drooping, but horizontally, or flat, making 
 a great disc of lovely colour, ranging through all the 
 shades of blue, lilac, blue and white, and plum, to 
 crimson-purple, magenta, and pink. They are more 
 tender and less quickly started than the German, but 
 do well when established. A low, damp spot suits 
 them best, and where this is not available they should 
 be abundantly supplied with water. German Iris will 
 
200 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 do well in any good garden soil and under ordinary 
 cultivation. Iris should be taken up and divided 
 every three or four years, removing all dead or ex- 
 hausted growth, and setting one live toe, or point, in 
 a place. They will not do well the first year of divid- 
 ing, but the following year will be very fine, especially 
 if there have been enough roots to make several long, 
 parallel rows. 
 
 While not troubled with any disease or insect pest, 
 the moles seem to have an especial liking for the roots 
 of the Japanese Iris, and have caused me much loss. 
 The only preventive is to shut the moles out of the 
 bed by sinking a close wire netting around it to a depth 
 of eighteen inches, or by making early and persistent 
 use of good mole-traps one at each end of the row, 
 or at the spots where they enter and leave the bed. 
 By this method I caught ten moles in as many days in 
 the Iris beds, and was comparatively free from them 
 the remainder of the season. Salt pork or bacon 
 rinds buried in their runs will sometimes drive them 
 away for a time, but this is not to be depended on, 
 neither is the presence of Castor-oil plant, which, so 
 far as I have observed, has not the slightest value. 
 The only method is to trap them early in the spring, 
 before they begin to breed; setting the trap in the 
 runs from the nest and not in the shallow feeding runs 
 they make close to the surface. These they may not 
 visit again in days, if at all, but the main runs, which 
 usually extend in several directions from their bur- 
 
A GOOD BACKGROUND FOR LOW SHRUBS 
 
Eighteen] &ty )tU)S EtlS 201 
 
 rows, and are several inches below the surface, are 
 traversed several times a day. 
 
 Peonies what would the spring garden be with- 
 out these old-time favourites ? Whatever flowers are 
 lacking in country gardens, it is rarely these ; and yet, 
 we seldom see them at their best. They like rich, 
 well-drained soil in a sunny location, and once estab- 
 lished should remain undisturbed for years, or until 
 they become so crowded as to need dividing, as they 
 require several years to recover .after being moved, 
 and only actual necessity should lead to their dis- 
 turbance, certainly not the requests of friends and 
 neighbours to dig them up and divide. Better buy a 
 root to give away, if reluctant to refuse, than injure 
 the plant. 
 
 Mulch the Peony bed heavily with rough manure 
 in the fall, removing the coarsest in the spring and 
 working the rest into the soil. A good mulch of lawn 
 clippings during July and August will keep the soil 
 cool and moist, and greatly benefit the plants. This 
 should be given before they bloom, as there is usually 
 heavy rain about that time, which beats the flowers 
 down into the dirt and ruins them. 
 
 The Funkia (Plantain Lily), or Day Lily, as it is 
 commonly called, is another plant impatient of dis- 
 turbance ; and once planted it should not be molested. 
 It likes a good, rich, mellow soil, but is not particular 
 as to location, so that no other plant is near it. 
 Though perfectly hardy I prefer to give it a little 
 
202 "The Flower Garden 
 
 protection in the winter. In the spring cut away the 
 sod from around it the width of the spade, making 
 the soil fine and mellow, and working in some old 
 manure. This annual enlarging of its boundaries is 
 all the care it needs to make it grow larger and finer, 
 year by year, and bloom profusely. 
 
 The French Lilacs are to be recommended for lib- 
 eral planting, as they are free from the vice of suck- 
 ering which makes the old-fashioned sort so trouble- 
 some. They should be planted wherever they will be 
 useful as backgrounds for lower shrubs, or perennials, 
 or in a row along a lane or fence. As the blooming 
 season of the different varieties varies, by judicious 
 selection they may be had in bloom for several weeks. 
 
 Althaeas (Rose of Sharon) have the happy notion 
 of blooming when other plants do not, so they are 
 doubly welcome. As they bloom from the bottom 
 up they should have a place by themselves on the 
 grounds, where they will make quite tall trees in a 
 few years. The white and light-coloured ones are 
 the most attractive. Young trees should be wrapped 
 in straw during winter, and old ones well mulched 
 with rough litter. 
 
Chapter NINETEEN 
 
 Winter protection 
 
 WHEN the frost has cut down the 
 flowers, and robbed the shrubs 
 of their leaves it is time for the 
 fall cleaning of the garden. 
 This should be completed before 
 the leaves begin to fall, as if left until then they will 
 greatly complicate matters. 
 
 Pull up and consign to the compost heap all an- 
 nuals, weeds, stalks of perennials, Lilies, and orna- 
 mental plants, and the litter used for mulch during 
 summer. This last might be left on were it not for 
 the fact that it is likely to harbour insects which would 
 do mischief. It is therefore better to remove it and 
 work the bed over, leaving all clean and neat. 
 
 This is the time to look out for cutworms, 
 chrysalids, and the like, and destroy them. Much 
 may be done in this direction. Look carefully along 
 the edging between the curbing and the grass where 
 the cutworm lurks. Look for the chrysalids of borers 
 in the ground around the Clematis, Cosmos, Holly- 
 
204 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 hocks, and Dahlia beds, and when found destroy 
 them. On the under side of boards, steps, and under 
 the edge of the siding of the house will be found the 
 cocoons of the hickory tussock-moth and the cabbage- 
 worm, all of which should be destroyed. After re- 
 moving the dead annuals rake over the beds, leaving 
 them clean and neat. 
 
 Beds of perennials, Roses, bulbs, and especially of 
 Lilies and Peonies, must be well rounded up to shed 
 water, as all plants are injured by water standing 
 about their roots. If not already high enough to 
 admit of this, more earth must be added to raise them 
 sufficiently. The earth from the window-boxes may 
 be used to advantage, especially for the Tea-rose bed, 
 where a foot of mellow earth, brought well up around 
 the plants and rounded to shed water, will so protect 
 them that, though the tops may freeze, all below the 
 soil will be likely to live. Over this should be placed 
 several inches of rough litter or leaves and a frame 
 of rough boards put around the beds and covered with 
 sash, canvas, or boards to shed rain. 
 
 Young climbing Roses should have three or four 
 inches of earth banked up around them; wrap their 
 tops with straw or sacking, or old carpet may be 
 drawn over them and tacked to the trellis or support 
 on which they grow. Plants under the eaves of the 
 house, where the water drips, should have boards 
 arranged to catch and divert it to the lawn. 
 
 Protect equally from the cold winds of winter and 
 
Nineteen] 
 
 the sun ; plants are not injured so much by freezing as 
 by thawing suddenly, as they must when the sun shines 
 directly upon them. If they thaw gradually, little if 
 any damage is done, but sudden thawing ruptures the 
 plant-cells, causing serious injury. To prevent this 
 and the settling of water about the roots are the points 
 to keep in mind when giving winter protection. 
 
 For plants whose tops die, leaves offer an excellent 
 protection better than manure, in that they do not 
 scatter seeds of weeds. For plants that form a fall 
 crown of leaves as the Hollyhock or Annunciation 
 Lily a box with an open end filled lightly with leaves 
 is satisfactory. Close, air-tight covers, as boxes, tin 
 pails, iron kettles, and the like, should never be used 
 to protect plants of any kind. Wooden frames 
 covered with wire netting and filled loosely with 
 leaves, allowing the moisture to evaporate rapidly, 
 have given the best results; next come frames covered 
 with thin cotton cloth, then loose boxes with one end 
 knocked out. The idea is to retain the dry leaves 
 around the plant, protect from sun and cold wind, and 
 allow the rapid evaporation of any moisture that may 
 collect. Wet or frozen leaves around a plant are 
 worse than no protection ; especially is this true in the 
 case of Myosotis, Pansies, Carnations, Canterbury- 
 bells, and Foxglove, all of which do better in the cold- 
 frames. Where these are not available, recourse may 
 be had to the boxes with netting, or to evergreen 
 boughs. When filling in about a plant with leaves do 
 
206 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 it lightly, as a mass closely packed becomes damp and 
 mouldy, and kills rather than protects. 
 
 Plants too tall to be covered should be protected 
 with straw or corn-stalks ; cover for some litttle dis- 
 tance beyond the roots with leaves or litter, and place 
 straw or corn fodder around them, bringing it to a 
 point at top, and tying firmly there and in the middle, 
 sloping the stalks sufficiently to shed rain. Tall Rose- 
 bushes, young Althaeas, and similar growths, are much 
 benefited by this form of protection. Long beds of 
 plants as Japanese Iris, Pansies, and the like may be 
 protected by taking narrow boards eighteen or twenty 
 inches long, with a notch cut in one end, the other end 
 being pointed and driven into the ground; set these 
 at intervals through the centre of the beds; place the 
 poles lengthwise of the beds, their ends resting in the 
 notches, and arrange evergreen boughs across the 
 poles on each side to shed rain. Corn fodder may be 
 used where the evergreens cannot be procured, or a 
 row of pegs may support two boards, forming a A- 
 shaped roof, which will protect from wind, sun, and 
 water equally. Protect the Lily and Peony beds with 
 a foot of leaves and rough, old manure. Rhododen- 
 drons, at the North, must have both roots and tops 
 protected if there is to be any bloom the following 
 year. Muslin-covered frames and leaves will do this 
 best. Great care must be taken not to break off the 
 buds, which are exceedingly brittle. Frames with re- 
 movable lids that will admit of filling in gradually, 
 
Nineteen] 
 
 and allow the leaves to settle before finishing, are best. 
 Pile leaves around the roots of Clematis, and stretch 
 sacking or other cloth over the trellises on which they 
 grow. Protect in the same way English Ivy and 
 Ampelopsis Veitchi while young. A northwest angle 
 of a building affords very good protection. 
 
Chapter TWENTY 
 
 Care of House-plante 
 Winter 
 
 PLANTS for winter blooming should be 
 brought into the house before the nights 
 get chilly. By becoming gradually ac- 
 customed to the air of the house before 
 the doors are closed and the fires started, 
 they will be less affected by the change. 
 
 Do not crowd into the window more plants than it 
 can conveniently hold. Plants must have room to 
 breathe and grow, and abundant light. No plant 
 should touch its neighbours. Even with this amount 
 of room at the start they will be badly crowded before 
 spring, and it will probably be necessary to remove 
 some. 
 
 Shelves, brackets, and stands should be in place be- 
 fore the plants are brought in, as changing about and 
 handling are bad for them. Plants with tender fo- 
 liage, as Cinerarias, Primulas, and the like, do best 
 on a window-bracket, and the capacity of the window 
 is greatly increased by the use of brackets. Plants 
 with drooping leaves should have single brackets, to 
 
 108 
 
House-plants 
 
 avoid contact with other plants. The Bougainvillea, 
 also, does better on a bracket, being of a trailing 
 habit. It is not, however, a good winter bloomer, 
 usually coming in late in March and continuing until 
 December, but it is very reliable during that time and 
 requires less care than any house-plant with which I 
 am familiar, unless it be the Araucaria. 
 
 See that all shelves are securely fastened, and strong 
 enough to sustain the weight to be placed upon them. 
 The additional protection of a small brass chain 
 fastening the outer edge of the shelf to the window- 
 casing above it will ease the strain on the brackets and 
 give greater security. 
 
 See that all hanging-baskets are securely hung with 
 copper wire, and that there is no danger of the hooks* 
 from which they are suspended pulling out. 
 
 Do not start in with a number of plants the require- 
 ments of which are entirely unknown. Where con- 
 ditions for their proper care are not obtainable it will 
 be wiser to content one's self with familiar plants of- 
 fering a reasonable hope of success, as Geraniums, 
 Hyacinths, or Primroses. A healthy, vigorous plant, 
 however common, is preferable to a sickly one, be it 
 ever so rare. 
 
 A fair degree of atmospheric moisture should be 
 maintained by keeping a dish of water on stove, 
 register, or radiator. Where bulbs are grown a 
 healthy degree of humidity is secured by evaporation 
 and transpiration as shown by moisture gathering on 
 
no The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 the glass when the temperature falls. Moisture in 
 the soil is a more difficult matter, and greater harm is 
 done through ignorance in this particular than in any 
 other way. Either plants are allowed to suffer for 
 water, or they are drenched indiscriminately. All are 
 watered alike, irrespective of individual need, whereas 
 the requirements of each should be studied. A few 
 plants, natives of bogs as the Calla require con- 
 stant moisture when growing. Heliotrope, on the 
 other hand, turns yellow when over-watered. Water 
 should be applied thoroughly when given and then 
 withheld until the plant is nearly dry again. This in- 
 duces a stocky growth, with well-ripened wood, 
 capable of producing healthy bloom. To keep a 
 plant constantly wet may produce a quick growth, 
 but it will be a soft one, incapable of the best re- 
 sults. 
 
 Flower-pots should not be filled to the brim with 
 earth, but sufficient space should be left to hold 
 enough water to thoroughly saturate the soil in each 
 pot a full inch or more in the case of six-inch 
 pots, and at least half an inch for small pots. 
 The soil must be sufficiently open to take the water 
 quickly. Heliotrope, and some other plants, form 
 a thick network of roots, which the water cannot 
 penetrate readily, and channels should be opened 
 through them with a pencil or stick. See that the 
 water really penetrates the soil instead of merely pass- 
 ing between the ball of earth and the pot. Hanging- 
 
Twenty] 
 
 baskets of wire and moss are best watered by setting 
 in a large pail until thoroughly soaked. One such 
 watering will last a week, unless the room is very hot 
 and diy. 
 
 Give sun-loving plants all the sunshine possible. 
 Geraniums especially love to be close to the glass, and 
 the difference is quickly seen in the quality of the blos- 
 soms. Shower every day, if possible, especially such 
 plants as Heliotropes, Cinerarias, Cyclamen, Lan- 
 tanas, and, if not once a day, at least once a week. 
 Dipping the entire plant in a tub of quite warm water 
 is a great benefit, as in that way every part of the 
 plant is reached. 
 
 I do not especially approve of the advice so con- 
 stantly given to "keep an old fork handy to stir the 
 soil, that the roots may have air." The leaves are the 
 lungs of the plants, and if these are kept clean there 
 will be no trouble about their breathing. Moreover, 
 if necessary to get air to the roots, stirring the soil 
 would be a very poor way to do it, as cultivation 
 of the surface is intended to keep air out and 
 moisture in. To this end we make a dry mulch 
 over flower-beds and the farmer cultivates his corn 
 in a "dry spell," knowing that the formation of 
 a dry crust will result in the rapid evaporation of 
 the moisture in the soil, the dry air shrinking the soil 
 and opening up its pores, as it were, letting the hot air 
 in and the moisture out. This advantage the practice 
 has: it counteracts any tendency to sourness in the 
 
212 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 soil, and should be resorted to whenever there is 
 any suspicion of this, or when the earth in which 
 tender or succulent-stemmed plants are growing 
 seems hard and will not take water readily. The 
 Amaryllis objects to this disturbance, and hard- 
 wooded plants, which require firm potting, should 
 not be disturbed by more than the merest scratching 
 of the surface. 
 
 Give support to such plants as need it, promptly; 
 failure in this respect may result in the loss of a cher- 
 ished blossom, or the disfigurement of a plant. 
 
 Pinch back all weak and straggling growths, trim- 
 ming the plants to grow stocky and symmetrical. 
 
 Avoid, as far as possible, a sudden change of tem- 
 perature, as a sudden chill will greatly injure some 
 plants, though they may not be actually frozen. 
 Plants may be left in the window as long as the glass 
 is not frosted, but at the slightest appearance of frost 
 they must be moved back out of actual contact with 
 the glass. The thermometer drops suddenly at times, 
 and plants that were considered quite safe at night 
 may be found frozen in the morning. When the ther- 
 mometer in the window indicates a safe temperature 
 and that outside a stationary one, though very low, the 
 plants may be left where they are; but beware of fall- 
 ing temperature, and protect with several thicknesses 
 of newspaper between the plants and the window, 
 bringing it well out beyond the window-frames. All 
 cracks between the sash and casing should be carefully 
 
Twenty] QUSt^US "3 
 
 sealed with strips of cloth or paper, the colour of the 
 woodwork, neatly pasted over, effectually shutting 
 out draughts. This alone will help immensely in pro- 
 tecting plants, and storm-windows are safe and save 
 much trouble. 
 
 Fresh air, which plants must have, should be sup- 
 plied through another room, where it will be warmed 
 before reaching them. A screen, so placed as to cut 
 off draughts when a door is opened to air the room, 
 will be found a great convenience. 
 
 When plants are frozen they should be thawed very 
 gradually. Darken the room and keep the tempera- 
 ture low, raising it gradually. If, however, the plants 
 are in a living-room, where the temperature cannot 
 conveniently be kept low for any length of time, re- 
 move them to the cellar until the frost is drawn out 
 of them, when, if not too badly damaged, they may 
 be returned to the window and encouraged to grow. 
 Geraniums are rarely injured by one freezing, the loss 
 of the leaves being the chief damage, and if the plants 
 are returned at once to the window this may prove 
 an advantage, as wherever a leaf falls a new shoot 
 will usually be forced, making the plant much more 
 stocky and thrifty. During an unusually severe storm, 
 a Geranium left in the window of a room away from 
 direct heat was badly frosted. As it was not a very 
 choice variety no effort was made to save it. The 
 room was closed, and a temperature of 12 below 
 zero reigned for several days. When the weather 
 
The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 moderated and the temperature rose to 32 the room 
 was opened and warmed, the Geranium remaining 
 on its shelf. In a few days, seemingly, the axil of 
 every vanished leaf had bourgeoned into tender 
 green, and in a short time the Geranium was as 
 thrifty as ever, blossoming better the following sum- 
 mer than at any time before. Favourable growing 
 conditions should be given as soon after freezing as 
 possible, that all the vitality may be utilised and not 
 wasted to sustain life in the unfavourable conditions 
 existing in cellars. 
 
 Showering with, and dipping in, cold water slightly 
 above freezing are also good for frosted plants; 33 
 is about right, as a higher temperature will be apt to 
 precipitate the evil it is desired to avoid the rupture 
 of the plant-cells. 
 
 The freezing of the soil in pots, which often hap- 
 pens with bulbs or plants kept quite wet, does no 
 particular harm, and no attention need be paid to it 
 as long as the tops are not frozen. 
 
 Remember that heat rises, and that the upper sash 
 of a window is many degrees warmer than the lower, 
 so that by having an upper shelf you can grow plants 
 requiring a much higher temperature than those on 
 the lower shelf. For the same reason hanging-baskets 
 require much more water than plants on low shelves, 
 and should be showered frequently to counteract the 
 dryer atmosphere. A rubber sprinkler is indispen- 
 sable for this purpose; by its use flowers may be suf- 
 
Twenty] QU8tt$mt8 "5 
 
 ficiently showered every day to keep back red spiders 
 and materially change the atmosphere. 
 
 Compost, sand, old manure, and drainage material 
 should be prepared in the fall and put in a frost-proof 
 place ready for any repotting that may be necessary 
 during the winter, and for the early sowing of seeds 
 in the house. 
 
 In another chapter will be found formulas for the 
 various insecticides required for the extermination of 
 the pests likely to attack plants in the close, dry air 
 of the living-room. If attention is paid to the supply 
 of fresh air and moisture little, if any, trouble will be 
 experienced on this score. 
 
 Plants coming into bloom will require some fertil- 
 iser, and as there are objections to the use of manure- 
 water in the house the following formula will be 
 found very satisfactory: Get at the druggist's one 
 and a half pounds (or ounces) nitrate of soda, one- 
 half pound (or ounce) phosphate of soda, and one 
 pound (or ounce) sulphate of potash. Mix and pul- 
 verise the material thoroughly. When required for 
 use put a rounding tablespoonful of this mixture in a 
 gallon of hot water. To fertilise the plants put a 
 teacupful of the water, when cool, on a six-inch pot, 
 and more in proportion on larger pots. Do not use 
 oftener than once in two weeks, and do not let it 
 touch the foliage. 
 
 All the Asparagus group are benefited by the use of 
 a good fertiliser, especially is this the case with A. 
 
216 The Flower Garden 
 
 Sprengeri, which makes a root growth so vigorous 
 that it would be unmanageable were it not for the use 
 of fertilisers, which make it possible to keep it within 
 reasonable bounds. 
 
 Begonias, on the other hand, are usually injured by 
 the use of fertilisers. 
 
Chapter TWENTY-ONE 
 
 Common attti Cnajltsf) $ame$ of 
 jflotoers 
 
 W 
 
 HERE a plant has a double name 
 as Hypericum Moserianum 
 only the first will be given, as 
 it will be indexed in the cata- 
 logues that way. 
 
 Abyssinian Banana, 
 Adam's Needle, 
 Alleghany Vine, 
 Alum Root, 
 American Cowslip, 
 American Senna, 
 Amethyst, 
 Artillery Plant, 
 Aurora's Bower, 
 Australian Glory Pea, 
 Baby's Breath, 
 Bachelor's Button, 
 Balsam Apple, 
 Balsam Pear, 
 
 See Musa. 
 
 " Yucca. 
 
 " Adlumia. 
 
 " Heuchera. 
 
 " Dodecatheon. 
 
 " Cassia. 
 
 " Browallia. 
 
 " Pilea. 
 
 " Gaillardia. 
 
 " Clianthus. 
 
 " Gypsophila. 
 
 " Globe Amaranth. 
 
 Momordica. 
 
 " Momordica. 
 
2l8 
 
 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Banana Shrub, 
 Barrenwort, 
 Basket of Gold, 
 Bath Flower, 
 Beard Tongue, 
 Bird's Nest Fern, 
 
 Bishop's Weed, 
 Black-eyed Susan, 
 Bleeding Heart, 
 Blood Flower, 
 Bluebottle, 
 Bluebottle, 
 Blue Leadwort, 
 Blue Lyme Grass, 
 Blue Salvia, 
 Blue Vetch, 
 Bluet, 
 Boston Ivy, 
 Bowman's Root, 
 Bugle, 
 Bugle Vine, 
 Burning Bush, 
 Butterfly Flower, 
 Butterfly Flower, 
 Butterfly Orchid, 
 Butterfly Weed, 
 Calico Bush, 
 California Poppy, 
 
 See Magnolia. 
 
 Epimedium. 
 
 " Alyssum. 
 
 " Trillium. 
 
 " Pentstemon. 
 
 " A spidium Nidus- 
 
 Avis. 
 
 " AEgopodium. 
 
 " Thunbergia. 
 
 " Dicentra. 
 
 Hcemanthus. 
 
 " Centaurea. 
 
 " Grape Hyacinth. 
 
 " Plumbago. 
 
 " Elymus. 
 
 " S. patens. 
 
 " Grape Hyacinth. 
 
 " Houstonia. 
 
 " Ampelopsis. 
 
 " Gillenia. 
 
 " Ajuga. 
 
 " Calampelis. 
 
 " Euonymus. 
 
 " Centrosema. 
 
 " Schizanthus. 
 
 " Epidendrum. 
 
 " Asclepias. 
 
 " Eschscholtzia. 
 
Twenty-one] 
 
 2I 9 
 
 Canterbury Bell, 
 Cape Hyacinth, 
 Cardinal Flower, 
 Castor Bean, 
 Cheneil Plant, 
 Chilian Glory Flower, 
 Chimney Bell Flower, 
 Chinese Bell Flower, 
 Chinese Lantern Plant, 
 Chinese Matrimony 
 
 Vine, 
 
 Chinese Paper Plant, 
 Christmas Berry, 
 Christmas Rose, 
 Cinnamon Vine, 
 Cinquefoil, 
 Climbing Fumitory, 
 Climbing Hawthorn, 
 Cock's Comb, 
 Columbine, 
 Cone Flower, 
 Coral Plant, 
 Corn Flower, 
 Cowslip, 
 Crane's Bill, 
 Creeping Mallow, 
 Crown Vetch, 
 Cruel Plant, 
 Cup-and-Saucer Plant, 
 
 See Campanula. 
 " H. candicans. 
 " Lobelia. 
 " Ricinus. 
 
 Acalypha. 
 
 Eccremocarpus. 
 
 Campanula. 
 
 Platycodon. 
 
 Physalis. 
 
 Lucium. 
 
 Bougainville a. 
 " Ardisia. 
 " Helleborus. 
 " Dioscorea. 
 " Potentilla. 
 " Adlumia. 
 " Actinidia. 
 " Celosia. 
 " Aquilegia. 
 " Rudbeckla. 
 " Erythrina. 
 " Centaurea. 
 " Primula. 
 
 Geranium. 
 " Callirhoe. 
 " Coronilla. 
 " Physianthus. 
 " Campanula, 
 
220 
 
 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Cup-and-Saucer Vine, 
 Cup Flower, 
 Cushion Pink, 
 Dark Mullen, 
 Day Lily, 
 Devil-in-the-Bush, 
 Double Buttercup, 
 Dropwort, 
 Duck Plant, 
 Dutchman's Breeches, 
 Dutchman's Pipe, 
 Dusty Miller, 
 Dusty Miller, 
 Edelweiss, 
 Emerald Feather, 
 English Daisy, 
 Evening Glory, 
 Evening Primrose, 
 Everlasting, 
 Everlasting, 
 Everlasting, 
 Everlasting, 
 Everlasting, 
 Everlasting, 
 Everlasting, 
 Fair Maids of France, 
 False Chamomile, 
 False Dragon Head, 
 False Indigo, 
 
 See Coboea. 
 
 " Nierembergia. 
 
 " Armeria. 
 
 " Verbascum. 
 
 " Hemerocallis. 
 
 " Nigella. 
 
 " Ranunculus. 
 
 " Spiraea. 
 
 " Aristolochia. 
 
 " Dielytra. 
 
 " Aristolochia. 
 
 " Centaurea. 
 
 " Cineraria. 
 
 " Gnaphalium. 
 
 " Asparagus. 
 
 " Ipomcea. 
 
 " CEnothera. 
 
 " Acroclinium. 
 
 " Ammobium. 
 
 " G/o^^ Amaranth. 
 
 " Helichrysum. 
 
 " Lathyrus. 
 
 " Rhodanthe. 
 
 " Xeranthemum. 
 
 " Ranunculus. 
 
 " Boltonia. 
 
 " Physostegia. 
 
 " Baptisia. 
 
Twenty-one] 
 
 Feverfew, 
 
 Fire on the Mountain, 
 Flame Flower, 
 Fleur de Lis, 
 Flora's Paint Brush, 
 Florida Rattle Box, 
 Floss Flower, 
 Flowering Currant, 
 Flowering Dogwood, 
 Flowering Maple, 
 Flowering Sage, 
 Flowering Spurge, 
 Forget-me-not, 
 Fountain Plant, 
 Four-o'clock, 
 Fringe Flower, 
 Garden Flower, 
 Gardener's Garter, 
 Garland Flower, 
 Gas Plant, 
 Gay Feather, 
 Gilliflower, 
 Globe Flower, 
 Glory Pea of Australia, 
 Goat's Beard, 
 Gold Lack, 
 Golden Bush Pea, 
 Golden Feather, 
 Golden Honey Bell, 
 
 See Matricaria. 
 
 " Euphorbia. 
 
 " Tritoma. 
 
 " Iris. 
 
 " Cacalia. 
 
 " Crotolaria. 
 
 " Ageratum. 
 
 " Ribes. 
 
 " Cornus. 
 
 " Abutilon. 
 
 " Salvia. 
 
 " Euphorbia. 
 
 " Myosotis. 
 
 " Acalypha. 
 
 " Marvel of Peru. 
 
 " Schizanthus. 
 
 " Schizanthus. 
 
 " Phalaris. 
 
 " Daphne. 
 
 " Dictamnus. 
 
 " Liatris. 
 
 " Cheiranthus. 
 
 " Trollius. 
 
 " Clianthus. 
 
 " Wall Flower, 
 
 " Crotolaria. 
 
 " Pyrethrum. 
 
 " Mahernia. 
 
222 
 
 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Golden-leaved Elder, 
 Golden Rod, 
 Golden Tuft, 
 Great Reed, 
 Great Sea Lavender, 
 Groundsel, 
 Hawk's Beard, 
 Holly Fern, 
 Honey Bell, 
 Horn of Plenty, 
 Horned Poppy, 
 Horse Mint, 
 House Leek, 
 Humble Plant, 
 Hyacinth Clematis, 
 Jacobean Lily, 
 Jacob's Ladder, 
 Japan Quince, 
 Japanese Bell Flower, 
 Japanese Beni, 
 Japanese Hop, 
 Japanese Ivy, 
 Japanese Primrose, 
 Japanese Primrose, 
 Japanese Virgin's Bower, 
 Japanese Winter Cherry, 
 Jerusalem Cherry, 
 Jerusalem Cross, 
 Kenilworth Ivy, 
 
 See Sambucus. 
 
 " Solidago. 
 
 " Alyssum. 
 
 " Arundo Donax. 
 
 " Limonium. 
 
 " Glechoma. 
 
 " Crepis. 
 
 " Crytomium. 
 
 " Maker ma. 
 
 " Datura. 
 
 " Glaucium. 
 
 " Monarda. 
 
 " Sempervivum. 
 
 " Mimosa. 
 
 Clematis Davidiana. 
 
 " Amaryllis. 
 
 " Polemonium. 
 
 " Platycodon. 
 
 " Caryopteris. 
 
 " Humulus. 
 
 " Ampelopsis. 
 
 11 Cortusoidea. 
 
 " Primula. 
 
 " Clematis. 
 
 " Physalis. 
 
 " Solatium. 
 
 " Lychnis. 
 
 " Linaria. 
 
Twenty-one] 
 
 Of tfltfotW "3 
 
 Lady Washington, 
 Larkspur, 
 Lavender Cotton, 
 Lawn Pearlwort, 
 Lemon Verbena, 
 Leopard Plant, 
 Lilac, 
 
 Lily of the Palace, 
 Lily of the Palace, 
 Little Bo-Peep, 
 Liverwort, 
 London Tufts, 
 Look at Me, 
 Love Grove, 
 Love in a Mist, 
 Love Lies Bleeding, 
 Lungwort, 
 
 Madagascar Periwinkle, 
 Maidenhair Fern, 
 Mallow, 
 Maltese Cross, 
 Mariposa Lily, 
 Marsh Mallow, 
 Meadow Beauty, 
 Meadow Sage, 
 Meadow Star, 
 Mexican Fire Plant, 
 Mexican Lily, 
 Michaelmas Daisies, 
 
 See Pelargonium. 
 
 " Delphinium. 
 
 " Santolina. ' 
 
 " Spergula. 
 
 " Verbena. 
 
 " Farfugium. 
 
 " Syringa. 
 
 " Agapanthus. 
 
 " Amaryllis. 
 
 " Antirrhinum. 
 
 " Hepatica. 
 
 " Sweet William. 
 
 " Centrosema. 
 
 " Nemophila. 
 
 " Amaranthus. 
 " Martensia. 
 
 Adiantum. 
 " Hibiscus. 
 " Lychnis. 
 " Calochortus. 
 " Hibiscus. 
 
 Spircea. 
 
 Euphorbia. 
 
 Amaryllis. 
 
22 4 
 
 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Monkey Flower, 
 Monkshood, 
 Moon Flower, 
 Moonpenny Daisy, 
 Moonwort, 
 Morning Glory, 
 Mosses, 
 Moss Pink, 
 Moss Verbena, 
 Mother of Thousands, 
 Mountain Fleece, 
 Mountain Fringe, 
 Mountain Laurel, 
 Mourning Bride, 
 Mouse-ear Chickweed, 
 Moustache Plant, 
 Musk Plant, 
 Old Maid, 
 Old Man, 
 Old Woman, 
 Orchid Vine, 
 Oriental Poppy, 
 Oswego Tea, 
 Painted Daisy, 
 Painted Leaf, 
 Painted Tongue, 
 Pampas Grass, 
 Pancratium, 
 Paris Daisy, 
 
 See Mimulus. 
 
 " Aconitum. 
 
 " Ipomoea. 
 
 " Chrysanthemum, 
 
 " Honesty. 
 
 " Ipomcea. 
 
 " Selaginellas. 
 
 " PJWo*. 
 
 " Verbena. 
 
 " Saxifrage. 
 
 " Polygonum. 
 
 " Adlumia. 
 
 " Xtf/ww. 
 
 " Scabiosa. 
 
 u Cerastium. 
 
 " Caryopteris. 
 
 " Mimulus. 
 
 " Artemesia. 
 
 " Artemesia. 
 
 " Stigmaphyllon. 
 
 " Pap aver. 
 
 " Monarda. 
 
 " Chrysanthemum. 
 
 " Euphorbia. 
 
 " Salpiglossis. 
 
 " Gynerium. 
 
 " Ismene (in part) 
 
 " Chrysanthemum. 
 
Twenty-one] 
 
 0f jf IsfotW "5 
 
 Passion Flower, 
 
 See Passiflora. 
 
 Peacock Flower, 
 
 " Tigridia. 
 
 Pearl Bush, 
 
 " Exochorda. 
 
 Peppermint, 
 
 " Mentha. 
 
 Periwinkle, 
 
 " Vinca. 
 
 Persian Daisy, 
 
 " Pyrethrum. 
 
 Pheasant's Eye, 
 
 " Adonis. 
 
 Pincushion Flower, 
 
 " Scabiosa. 
 
 Pinks, 
 
 " Dianthus. 
 
 Plantain Lily, 
 
 " Funkia. 
 
 Plume Poppy, 
 
 " Bocconia. 
 
 Pot of Gold, 
 
 " Calendula. 
 
 Purple Bells, 
 
 " Rodochiton. 
 
 Purple Fountain, 
 
 " Pennisetum. 
 
 Purple Grass, 
 
 ** Pennisetum. 
 
 Purple-leaved Plum, 
 
 " Prwwj. 
 
 Queen Lily, 
 
 " Amaryllis. 
 
 Ragged Robin, 
 
 " Lychnis. 
 
 Ragged Sailor, 
 
 " Centaurea. 
 
 Red-hot Poker, 
 
 " Trltoma. 
 
 Rock Cress, 
 
 " //r^w. 
 
 Rock Madwort, 
 
 " Alyssum. 
 
 Rose Campion, 
 
 " Lychnis. 
 
 Rose of Heaven, 
 
 " A grostemma. 
 
 Rubber Plant, 
 
 " Ffciw. 
 
 Sage Palm, 
 
 " C^j. 
 
 St. John's Wort, 
 
 Hypericum. 
 
 St. Bernard's Lily, 
 
 " Li/i^o. 
 
 Sand Root, 
 
 " Arenarla. 
 
226 
 
 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Sand Verbena, 
 Scarbrough Lily, 
 Scarlet Flax, 
 Scarlet-fruited Gourd, 
 
 Scarlet Sage, 
 
 Sea Holly, 
 
 Sea Pink, 
 
 Seal Flower, 
 
 Segar Plant, 
 
 Sensitive Plant, 
 
 Shaking Fern, 
 
 Shell Flower, 
 
 Shooting Star, 
 
 Shrubby Honeysuckle, 
 
 Silk Oak, 
 
 Silver Bells, 
 
 Slipper Flower, 
 
 Smoke Tree, 
 
 Snapdragon, 
 
 Sneezewort, 
 
 Snowball, 
 
 Snowberry, 
 
 Snow in Summer, 
 
 Snow on the Mountain, 
 
 Southern Wood, 
 
 Speedwell, 
 
 Spider Plant, 
 
 Spike Grass, 
 
 See Verbena. 
 
 " Vallota. 
 
 " Linum. 
 
 " Bryonopsis, or 
 
 Gourds. 
 
 " Salvia. 
 
 " Armeria. 
 
 " Armeria. 
 
 " Dielytra. 
 
 " Cuphea. 
 
 " Mimosa. 
 
 " Pteris. 
 
 " Tigridia. 
 
 " Dodecatheon. 
 
 " Lo nicer a. 
 
 " Grevillea. 
 
 " Calceolaria. 
 
 " Antirrhinum. 
 
 " Helenium. 
 
 " Viburnum. 
 
 " Symphoricarpus. 
 
 " Cerastium. 
 
 " Euphorbia. 
 
 " Abrotanum. 
 
 " Veronica. 
 
 " Cleome. 
 
Twenty-one] 
 
 Of 
 
 "7 
 
 Spring Beauty, 
 
 See 
 
 Claytonia. 
 
 Starworts, 
 
 u 
 
 Asters. 
 
 Stone Crop, 
 
 II 
 
 Sedum. 
 
 Straw Flower, 
 
 II 
 
 Helichrysum. 
 
 Sulphur Fern, 
 
 II 
 
 Gymnogramma. 
 
 Sunflower, 
 
 II 
 
 Helianthus. 
 
 Sun Plant, 
 
 
 
 Portulaca. 
 
 Swan River Daisy, 
 
 (i 
 
 Brachycome. 
 
 Swan River Everlasting, 
 
 u 
 
 Rhodanthe. 
 
 Sweet Olive, 
 
 II 
 
 Olea. 
 
 Sweet Sultan, 
 
 II 
 
 Centaurea. 
 
 Tassel Flower, 
 
 u 
 
 Cacalia. 
 
 Thrift, 
 
 II 
 
 Armeria. 
 
 Toad Flax, 
 
 it 
 
 Lin aria. 
 
 Toad Lily, 
 
 it 
 
 Cast alia. 
 
 Tobacco Plant, 
 
 II 
 
 Nicotiana. 
 
 Torch Lily, 
 
 II 
 
 Tritoma. 
 
 Tree Celandine, 
 
 ti 
 
 Bocconia. 
 
 Trumpet Flower, 
 
 tl 
 
 Datura. 
 
 Trumpet Vine, 
 
 14 
 
 Bignonia. 
 
 Umbrella Plant, 
 
 u 
 
 Cyperus. 
 
 Variegated Comfrey, 
 
 II 
 
 Symphytum. 
 
 Venus' Looking-Glass, 
 
 II 
 
 Campanula. 
 
 Virgin's Bower, 
 
 (t 
 
 Clematis. 
 
 Wake Robin, 
 
 11 
 
 Trillium. 
 
 Wawhaw, 
 
 u 
 
 Euonymus. 
 
 Wax Plant, 
 
 II 
 
 Hoy a. 
 
 Wax Plant, 
 
 II 
 
 Mesembryanthe- 
 
 mum. 
 
228 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 White Fringe, See Chionanthus. 
 
 Whitlow Grass, " Draba. 
 
 Wild Cucumber, " Eckinocystis. 
 
 Wind Flower, " Anemone. 
 
 Winged Everlasting, " Ammobium. 
 
 Wolf's-bane, " Aconitum. 
 
 Wood Lily, " Trillium. 
 
 Woodruff, " Asperula. 
 
 Yellow Flax, " Linum. 
 
 Youth and Old Age, " Zinnia. 
 
 Zanzibar Balsam, " Impatiens. 
 
 Zebra Grass, " Eulalia. 
 
 TIME FOR GERMINATION OF SEEDS 
 
 From Three to Five Days 
 
 Ageratum, Mina lobata, 
 
 Ammobium, Salvia, 
 
 Aster, Sedum, 
 
 Celosia, Silene Shasta, 
 
 Centaurea, Spherogyne, 
 
 Chrysanthemums, Stevia, 
 
 Cypress Vine, Stock ten week, 
 
 Gilla, Sweet William, 
 
 Hollyhock, Tradescantia, 
 
 Lavatera, Trifolium, 
 
 Layia Elegans, Tunica, 
 
 Leptosyne Maritima, Verbascum, 
 
 Marigold, Veronica, 
 
 Mimulus, Virginian Stock, 
 
Twenty-one] 
 
 Of tfltitotW "9 
 
 Viscaria, 
 Vittadenia, 
 
 In Five to 
 
 Acacia, 
 
 Amaranthus, 
 
 Arabis Alpina, 
 
 Beta, 
 
 Brompton Stock, 
 
 Bromus, 
 
 Browallia, 
 
 Candytuft, 
 
 Cannabis, 
 
 Carnations, 
 
 Centaurea, 
 
 Chelone, 
 
 Chrysanthemum Indicum, 
 
 Cineraria, 
 
 Clitoria, 
 
 Coleus, 
 
 Coreopsis Lanceolata, 
 
 Crucianella, 
 
 Cuphea, 
 
 Cynoglossum, 
 
 Dahlia, 
 
 Daisy, 
 
 Eschscholtzia, 
 
 Eupatorium, 
 
 Whitlavia, 
 Zinnia. 
 
 Seven Days 
 
 Gaillardia, 
 
 Geranium, 
 
 Gypsophila, 
 
 Hablitzia, 
 
 Helenium, 
 
 Helianthus, 
 
 Helichrysum, 
 
 Hibiscus, 
 
 Iberis Gibraltarica, 
 
 Linaria Reticulata, 
 
 Lobelia, 
 
 Lupinus, 
 
 Lychnis, 
 
 Malva Moschata, 
 
 Mathiola, 
 
 Mesembryanthemum, 
 
 Mignonette, 
 
 Morning Glory, 
 
 Nicotiana, 
 
 Picotee, 
 
 Pink, 
 
 Salpiglossis, 
 
 Schizanthus. 
 
230 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 In Eight to 
 
 Abutilon, 
 
 Achimines, 
 
 Agrostemma, 
 
 Antirrhinum, 
 
 Armeria, 
 
 Balsams, 
 
 Begonia, 
 
 Calceolaria, 
 
 Campanula, Annual, 
 
 Canna, 
 
 Capsicum, 
 
 Commelyna Coelestis, 
 
 Deutzia, 
 
 Digitalis, 
 
 Dracocephalum, 
 
 Erianthus, 
 
 Gaura, 
 
 Gloxinia, 
 
 Gnaphalium, 
 
 Hibiscus Syriacus, 
 
 Ten Days 
 
 Humulus Japonica, 
 
 Kaulfussia, 
 
 Lychnis, 
 
 Morina, 
 
 Pansy, 
 
 Pansy, Viola, 
 
 Papaver, 
 
 Pentstemon, 
 
 Petunia, 
 
 Phacelia, 
 
 Phlox Drummondi, 
 
 Poinsettia, 
 
 Potentilla, 
 
 Pyrethrum, 
 
 Rudbeckia, 
 
 Thunbergia, 
 
 Tropaeolum, 
 
 Valeriana, 
 
 Verbena, 
 
 Zea. 
 
 Achillea, 
 Alonsoa, 
 
 Alyssum Saxatile, 
 Anchusa, 
 Aquilegia, 
 
 In Ten to Twelve Days 
 
 Argemone, 
 
 Artemisia, 
 
 Asphodelus, 
 
 Aubrietia, 
 
 Bidens, 
 
Twenty-one] 
 
 Calandrinia, Helianthemum, 
 
 Calonyction, Linaria, 
 
 Campanula, Ipomopsis, 
 
 Feverfew, Scutellaria, 
 
 Galtonia, Silphium, 
 
 Geum, Spiraea. 
 Gypsophila, 
 
 In Twelve to Fifteen Days 
 
 Anemone Sylvestris, Myosotis, 
 
 Antigonon, Nicotiana, 
 
 Asters, Per., Nierembergia, 
 
 Callirhoe, Peas, 
 
 Campanula Tenorei, Perilla, 
 
 Datura, Petunia, Double, 
 
 Didiscus, Platycodon, 
 
 Gazanopsis, Polemonium, 
 
 Gourds, Ranunculus, 
 
 Hunnemannia, Ricinus, 
 
 Lantana, Thalictrum, 
 
 Mandevillea, Torenia, 
 
 Maurandya, Verbena Venosa. 
 
 In Fifteen to Twenty Days 
 
 Acanthus, Cobaea, 
 
 Agapanthus, Cuphea, 
 
 Anemone, Dictamnus, 
 
 Antigonon, Geranium Sanguineum, 
 
 Armeria Maritima, Heliotrope, 
 
 Calla, Hemerocallis, 
 
232 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Impatiens Sultana, Rivina Humilis, 
 
 Iris, Smilax, Boston, 
 
 Liatris Spicata, Solanum Robustum, 
 Primula Sinensis, 
 
 In Twenty to Thirty -five Days 
 
 Adlumia, Funkia, 
 
 Baptisia Australis, Gentiana Acaulis, 
 
 Berberis Vulgaris, Hibiscus Speciosa, 
 
 Campanula Fragilis, Humea Elegans, 
 
 Campanula Leutweiana, Musa Ensete, 
 
 Campanula Macrantha, Phlox, Perennial, 
 
 Campanula Nobilis, Phormium, 
 
 Clematis Diversi folia, Physianthus, 
 
 Clematis Integri folia, Tritoma Uvaria, 
 
 Clianthus Dampieri, Yucca. 
 Delphinium Nudicaule, 
 
 One Year or More 
 
 Adlumia, Iris, 
 
 Ampelopsis, Lilies, 
 
 Anthericum, Lupinus Polyphyllus, 
 
 Clematis, in variety, Musa, 
 
 Dictamnus, Tradescantia, 
 
 Fuchsia, Viola Odorata. 
 Geranium Sanguineum, 
 
 In the foregoing tables it will be observed that a 
 flower occasionally appears in two or more sections. 
 
Twenty-one] $&m8 Of jf 10*0013 '33 
 
 When this occurs, the first date indicates the time in 
 which strong and fresh seed should germinate in flats 
 in the house, or in hotbeds; the latter indicates the 
 time for old seed, under less favourable conditions, 
 and marks the limit of time in which plants may be 
 expected. 
 
Chapter Tf^ENTT-Tf^O 
 
 Blooming Reason of 
 Cms, ^jrufcs, anD 
 
 T. -Tree. S. Shrub. V. Vine. H. P. Hardy Per- 
 ennial. A. Annual. H. H. P. Hardy Herbaceous 
 Perennial. E. Evergreen. 
 
 April 
 
 Akebia Quinata ...................... H. P. V. 
 
 Alyssum Argenteum ..................... H. P. 
 
 Anemone Blanda ........................ H. P. 
 
 Bellis Perennis ....................... H. P. E. 
 
 Dicentra Bleeding Heart ............. H. H. P. 
 
 Dicentra Dutchman's Breeches. . . ......... H. P. 
 
 Dodecatheon .......................... H. P. 
 
 Forsythia^-Golden Bells .................. H. S. 
 
 Sanguinaria Blood Root. ............. H. H. P. 
 
 Saxifrage .............................. H. P. 
 
 Uvularia Bellwort ..................... H. P. 
 
 Vinca, Periwinkle, Myrtle .............. H. P. E. 
 
 Violets, in var ....................... H. P. E. 
 
Blooming 
 
 May 
 
 Adonis ................................ H. P. 
 
 Ajuga ............................. H. H. P. 
 
 Alyssum Argenteum .................. H. H. P. 
 
 Alyssum Saxatile ..................... H. H. P. 
 
 Amsonia ..................... , ..... H. H. P. 
 
 Aquilegia Argenteum ........ ......... H. H. P. 
 
 Arum Cuckoo Flower ............... H. H. P. 
 
 Aubretia .............. . ............ H. H. P. 
 
 Azalea .................................. S. 
 
 Barberry ................................. S. 
 
 Bellis English Daisy ................. H. P. E. 
 
 Callicarpa Japonica ...................... H. P. 
 
 Calycanthus Sweet Shrub .............. H. P. S. 
 
 Chionanthus White Wings ............. H. P. S. 
 
 Convallaria Lily of the Valley ......... H. H. P. 
 
 Daphne ............................ H. S. E. 
 
 Deutzia ............................. H. P. S. 
 
 Dicentra ........................... H. H. P. 
 
 Doronicum ......................... H. H. P. 
 
 Double- flowered Almond ................. H. S. 
 
 Double-flowered Crab .................... H. S. 
 
 Double- flowered Peach ................... H. S. 
 
 Epimedium ......................... H. H. P. 
 
 Euonymus Burning Bush ................ H. S. 
 
 Exochorda Pearl Bush .................. H. S. 
 
 Genista ............................ H. H. P. 
 
 Halesia Snowdrop ..................... H. T. 
 
236 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Hawthorn H. T. 
 
 Honeysuckle Bush. . . H. S. 
 
 Iris Aurea H. H. P. 
 
 Iris Siberica H. H. P. 
 
 Lychnis Red Campion H. H. P. 
 
 Ornithogalum Bulbous H. H. P. 
 
 Phlox Subulata H. P. 
 
 Polemonium Greek Valerian H. P. 
 
 Polyanthus H. P. E. 
 
 Potentilla, June to August H. P. 
 
 Primula English Primrose H. P. E. 
 
 Pulmonaria Lungwort H. H. P. 
 
 Pyrus (Cydonia) Japonica H. P. S. 
 
 Ranunculus Half H. P. 
 
 Rhododendrons H. S. E. 
 
 Ribes Flowering Currant H. S. 
 
 Sanguinaria Blood Root H. H. P. 
 
 Spircea Filipendula H. H. P. 
 
 Spircea Thunbergi H. S. 
 
 Spiraea Van Houttei .H. S. 
 
 Syringa Lilac H. T. 
 
 Tamarix H. S. 
 
 Trillium H. H. P. 
 
 Veronica H. P. 
 
 Viburnum Snowball H. S. 
 
 Vinca Myrtle H. P. E. 
 
 Weigela .H. S. 
 
Twenty-two] BlOOttttttS IStafiOttS *37 
 
 June 
 
 Aconitum Monkshood H. H. P. 
 
 Alstromeria Peruvian Lily H. H. P. 
 
 Anchusa H. H. P. 
 
 Anthemis H. H. P. 
 
 Anthericum St. Bruno's Lily H. H. P. 
 
 Aquilegia H. H. P. 
 
 Armeria H. P. 
 
 Arum H. P. 
 
 Astragalus Milk Fetch H. H. P. 
 
 Baptisia H. P. 
 
 Bellis H. P. E. 
 
 Buphthalmum H. P. 
 
 Callirhoe H. P. 
 
 Campanula H. P. E. 
 
 Cassia H. P. 
 
 Catalpa H. T. 
 
 Centaurea H. P. 
 
 Centranthus H. P. 
 
 Coreopsis H. P. 
 
 Cornus Dogwood H. T. 
 
 Coronilla H. P. 
 
 Delphinium H. H. P. 
 
 Deutzia Gracilis H. S. 
 
 Deutzia Pride of Rochester H. S. 
 
 Digitalis H. P. E. 
 
 Doronicum H. P. 
 
 Dracocephalum H. P. 
 
238 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Erigeron H. P. 
 
 Heuchera H. H. P. 
 
 Hollyhock H. H. P. E. 
 
 Honeysuckle H. V. 
 
 Hydrangea Climbing H. P. V. 
 
 Iris H. H. P. 
 
 Jasminum . H. P. 
 
 Laburnum H. T. 
 
 Lathyrus Everlasting Pea H. H. P. 
 
 Lilium Canadense H. H. P. (bulb) . 
 
 Lilium Candidum H. H. P. E. (bulb) 
 
 Lilium Longiflorum H. H. P. (bulb) 
 
 Linden H. T. 
 
 Locust H. T. 
 
 Lychnis Chalcedonica H. H. P. 
 
 Lychnis Coronaria H. H. P. 
 
 Lychnis Gigantea H. H. P. 
 
 Magnolia H. T. 
 
 Monarda H. P. 
 
 Mountain Ash H. T. 
 
 Papaver Poppy . H. H. P. & A. 
 
 Pentstemon Half H. P. 
 
 Philadelphus H. T. 
 
 Potentilla H. P. 
 
 Pyrethrum H. H. T. 
 
 Ranunculus H. P. 
 
 Rhododendron H. P. E. 
 
 Rose Hardy S. 
 
 Salpiglossis A. 
 
Twenty-two] JUOOtttttt 3>CJlSiOttSi 
 
 Schizanthus .............................. A. 
 
 Sedum ............................... H. P. 
 
 Spircea, in var .......................... H. P. 
 
 Sweet Alyssum ........................... A. 
 
 Sweet Peas .............................. A. 
 
 Sweet Scabiosa ......................... H. P. 
 
 Sweet Sultan ............................. A. 
 
 Veronica .............................. T. P. 
 
 Vinca ................................ E. V. 
 
 Violets ............................. H. P. E. 
 
 July 
 
 Achillea ............. . .............. H. H. P. 
 
 Allium Angularis ....................... H. P. 
 
 Anthemis .............................. H. P. 
 
 Armeria. . ............................ H. P. 
 
 Asphodel .............................. H. P. 
 
 Aster Alplnus ......................... H. P. 
 
 Bignonia Radicans .................... H. P. V. 
 
 Bocconia .............................. H. P. 
 
 Campanula .......................... H. P. E. 
 
 Candytuft ............................... A. 
 
 Chrysanthemum Maximum ................ H. P. 
 
 Cobcea Scandens .................. Tender P. V. 
 
 Coreopsis .............................. H. P. 
 
 Cosmos ................................. A. 
 
 Dahlia ............................ Tender P. 
 
 Datura ................................. A. 
 
 Dictamnus.. .H. P. 
 
240 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Digitalis H. P. E. 
 
 Dracocephalum H. P. 
 
 Eccremocarpus V. A. 
 
 Euphorbia A. 
 
 Evening Primrose H. P. 
 
 Funkia P. 
 
 Gypsophila A. 
 
 Iris Japanese H. P. 
 
 Liatris H. P. 
 
 Lilium Auratum H. P. 
 
 Linum H. P. 
 
 Lychnis H. H. P. 
 
 Perennial Phlox H. H. P. 
 
 Phlox Drummondl A. 
 
 Potentilla H. P. 
 
 Salvia Tender P. 
 
 Statice H. P. 
 
 Thalictrum H. P. 
 
 Thymus H. P. 
 
 Finca Tender P. 
 
 Yucca H. P. E. 
 
 August 
 
 Achillea H. H. P. 
 
 A Ilium H. P. 
 
 Armeria H. H. P. 
 
 Asphodel H. H. P. 
 
 Bellis H. P. E. 
 
 Callirhoe . H. P. 
 
Twenty-two] BlOOttUttg |?eag0tt0 
 
 Campanula . . . . H. P. E. 
 
 Carnation T. P. 
 
 Centranthus H. P. 
 
 Clerodendron H. P. 
 
 Cobcea V. A. 
 
 Cosmos A. 
 
 Delphinium H. P. 
 
 Dianthus H. H. P. 
 
 Digitalis H. P. E. 
 
 Dolichos V. A. 
 
 Eupatorium H. P. 
 
 Euphorbia , A. 
 
 Funkia H. H. P. 
 
 Hellanthus H. P. 
 
 Hibiscus H. H. P. 
 
 Hollyhock H. S. 
 
 Hydrangea, late In August H. P. S. 
 
 Hyperlcum Moserlanum H. S. 
 
 Llatrls H. P. 
 
 Llllum Album H. H. P. 
 
 Llllum Auratum H. H. P. 
 
 Llllum Melpomene H. H. P. 
 
 Llllum Roseum H. H. P. 
 
 Llllum Rubrum H. H. P. 
 
 Lobelia Cardlnalls H. H. P. E. 
 
 Lychnis H. H. P. 
 
 Monarda H. P. 
 
 (Enothera H. P. 
 
 Pentstemon . .H. P. 
 
The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Phlox, Perennial ..................... H. H. R 
 
 Platycodon .......................... H. H. P. 
 
 Rudbeckia .......................... H. H. P. 
 
 Salvia ........................ .... Tender P. 
 
 Sedum ......................... ...... H. P. 
 
 Silphium ............................. H. P. 
 
 Statice ............................... H. P. 
 
 Vinca ............. ............... Tender P. 
 
 September 
 Althea ............................. H. P. T. 
 
 Anchusa .............................. H. P. 
 
 Anemone Queen Charlotte ............ H. H. P. 
 
 Anemone Whirlwind .......... ...... H. H. P. 
 
 Asters, in var ................... A. & H. H. P. 
 
 Boltonia ............................. H. P. 
 
 Clematis Paniculata .................. H. P. V. 
 
 Erianthus ............................. H. P. 
 
 Eulalia .............................. H. P. 
 
 Eupatorium ........................ A. H. P. 
 
 Euphorbia ................. .............. A. 
 
 Gladiolus ........................ ..... Bulbs 
 
 Golden Rod ........................ H. H. P. 
 
 Hibiscus ....................... H. P. & T. P. 
 
 Hydrangea ............................ H. P. 
 
 Ipomcea ................................ A. 
 
 Lobelia Cardinalis ................. H. H. P. E. 
 
 Pampas Grass ..................... Half H. P. 
 
 Rudbeckia . .H. P. 
 
Twenty-two] BiOOtntttg ^20116 *43 
 
 Salvia T. P. 
 
 Statice H. P. 
 
 Tritoma , Tender P. 
 
 Vinca Tender P. 
 
 All Summer 
 
 Ageratum A. 
 
 Antirrhinum T. P. 
 
 Armeria A. 
 
 Balsam A. 
 
 Bartonia P. 
 
 Begonia, Tuberous T. P. 
 
 Begonia, Vernon T. P. 
 
 Brachycome P. 
 
 Browallia T. A. 
 
 Canary Bird Vine A. 
 
 Candytuft A. 
 
 Canna Tender P. Rhizomes 
 
 Celosia A. 
 
 Centrosema H. P. 
 
 Clarkia A. 
 
 Cleome Pungens A. 
 
 Cobcea Scandens A. 
 
 Collinsia A. 
 
 Cosmos A. 
 
 Crotolaria A. 
 
 Cypress Fine A. 
 
 Delphinium H. P. 
 
 Gloxinia . , .T. P. 
 
244 The Flower Garden 
 
 Hyacinthus Candicans H. P. 
 
 Ipomcea A. 
 
 Maurandya P. 
 
 Nasturtium A. 
 
 Pansy P. 
 
 Petunia A. 
 
 Portulaca A. 
 
 Rose Hardy or Half Hardy S. 
 
 Sweet Pea A. 
 
 Sweet Scabiosa A. 
 
 Sweet Sultan H. P. 
 
 Thunbergia T. P. 
 
 Verbena T. P. 
 
 Veronica .H. P. 
 
 Vinca T. P. 
 
 Vincetoxicum . . . H. P. 
 
Chapter TWENTY-THREE 
 
 Chapter of <tib& anfc 
 
 TOOLS: There is always a tendency 
 among beginners to overload with the 
 paraphernalia of their calling, what- 
 ever it may be. When the first en- 
 thusiasm passes, and one becomes a 
 careful and successful worker, all that is superfluous 
 is gradually dropped, and one realises that it is brains 
 and not tools that make the successful gardener. A 
 hotbed, a cold-frame or two, a work-table in some 
 convenient place, a trowel, wheel-barrow, spade, 
 pitchfork, rake, hoe, a few yards of stout cord, a 
 hatchet to sharpen stakes, a watering-pot, rubber 
 sprinkler, rubber gloves, a good supply of pots and 
 wire-netting, and a couple of good mole-traps cover 
 the real necessaries. Incidentals, such as wire-sieves, 
 lath-screens, trellises, and the like, may be made as 
 they are required. 
 
 One should not have more tools than can be kept 
 in good working order. 
 
 An excellent place for Begonias, Gloxinias, and 
 other shade-loving plants is made by fitting a wide 
 
 *4S 
 
246 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 shelf under a north or east window on the outside, 
 with a raised edge three or four inches high, made 
 by tacking strips of wood across the front and ends. 
 Inclose with window-netting, first nailing strips of 
 wood from the outer corners of the shelf to the upper 
 corners of the window-casing to support the netting. 
 When the shelf is filled with wet sand, and the plants 
 plunged in it, one has a miniature greenhouse acces- 
 sible from the room, and safe from trespass of 
 chickens, cats, or careless feet. The shelf may ex* 
 tend considerably beyond the window-casing if de- 
 sired, and be made attractive from the outside by 
 climbing vines. The Maurandya is fine here, as it will 
 push its tips through the netting, and be very orna- 
 mental; the Asparagus tenuissimus and A. plumosus 
 nanus are also good. A couple of plant-brackets 
 fastened to the outside casing will afford room for 
 drooping plants, and add to the attractiveness of the 
 shelf. Primroses will bloom here all summer, and 
 Ferns, Gloxinias, and fancy-leaved Caladiums find a 
 congenial home. 
 
 Insecticides 
 
 A GOOD supply of insecticides should be kept in 
 store, or at least the formulas and materials 
 for preparing them. Plant enemies have increased 
 to such an alarming extent in the past few years that 
 comparatively few flowers are free from them, and 
 
Twenty-three] <&&&$ %Vfo Ctttlfii 
 
 H7 
 
 some kinds, as the Rose, Dahlia, Aster, Clematis, and 
 Cosmos, are becoming more and more difficult to raise. 
 The Rose, especially, is in need of constant care and 
 watchfulness from the swelling of the leaf-bud until 
 the end of the growing season. One of its most 
 dreaded fungous diseases is known as "black spot," 
 which must be given thorough treatment in the begin- 
 ning, before the leaves start in the spring on plants 
 that have been previously affected. Syringe with 
 Bordeaux mixture and repeat once or twice a week 
 during the growing season. 
 
 Cosmos Borer is very destructive to the Cosmos, 
 Dahlia, Asters, and Clematis ; the preventive is a tea- 
 spoonful of Paris green to three gallons of water, 
 poured around the base of the plant, using sufficient 
 to wet the ground three or four inches deep. Begin 
 when the plant is a foot high, and continue until 
 fully grown. 
 
 The Black Beetle is an unpleasant pest that has 
 become very destructive to the Asters, eating the flow- 
 ers, and soon destroying an entire bed if not promptly 
 checked. It resembles the common blister beetle, but 
 is smaller and jet black in colour; it is easily killed 
 by knocking off into a pan of water containing a little 
 kerosene. In the early morning it is very sluggish, 
 and may be picked off and killed, or the plants may 
 be showered with the Paris-green solution, but the 
 appearance of the first bug must be the signal for 
 active operations. 
 
248 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 Plant Louse or Green Fly : This little insect com- 
 monly infests house-plants; it is called a fly because 
 in one stage of its existence it has wings. The rem- 
 edies are tobacco in some form, or sulpho-tobacco 
 soap syringed on the foliage, or the hot-water bath. 
 
 Black or Chrysanthemum Lice require practically 
 the same treatment. Tobacco-dust on the leaves will 
 usually prevent their appearance, and should be ap- 
 plied early in the summer and after every rain. 
 
 The Mealy Bug is a little whitish mass, like cotton 
 in appearance, often found on house-plants and on the 
 Spiraeas. Syringe with whale-oil soap solution; or, if 
 the plant is small, work over it, touching each bug with 
 a brush dipped in alcohol ; or use the hot-water bath. 
 
 Red Spider can only be kept at bay by fresh air 
 and the plentiful use of water; spray or syringe daily. 
 Use the hot-water bath if the spiders have gotten a 
 foothold. 
 
 Rose Hopper, or Thrips small yellowish insects 
 on the under side of Rose leaves, from which they 
 suck the juice, causing them to turn brown; whale- 
 oil soap syringed on the under side of the leaves is 
 the best remedy. 
 
 Rose Slugs are small green caterpillars that feed 
 on the Rose leaves and buds, lying on the under side 
 of the leaves, or drawing two leaves together with a 
 slight web. Work over the plants, pinching the leaves 
 between thumb and finger, or syringe with whale-oil 
 solution, or dust with powdered hellebore when wet. 
 
Twenty-three] 1)1)3 Elll) CtT&Si 249 
 
 Rose Bug a small, dark bug striped with light 
 yellow, which is very destructive to the Roses, eating 
 the flowers. Plants may be syringed, or showered 
 with the Paris-green solution at night or early in the 
 morning, but must be attended to promptly, as the 
 bugs are very destructive, stripping a bed of its flow- 
 ers in a surprisingly short time. Roses treated with 
 Paris green should always be plainly and conspic- 
 uously labelled to that effect. 
 
 Earth-worms and the like may be easily destroyed 
 by thoroughly soaking the soil in the pots with lime- 
 water, which is best done by plunging a pot to the 
 brim (not over) in the solution, and removing the 
 worms as they come to the surface. It may be nec- 
 essary to repeat this once or twice. 
 
 FORMULAS 
 
 The following formulas are from the New York 
 Agricultural Station and are reliable: 
 
 Normal, or 1.6 per cent. Bordeaux Mixture 
 
 Copper Sulphate (blue vitriol) 6 pounds 
 
 Quicklime (good stone lime) 4 pounds 
 
 Water 50 gallons 
 
 Dissolve the copper sulphate by putting it in a bag 
 of coarse cloth, and hanging it in a wooden or earthen 
 vessel containing five or six gallons of water. After 
 the copper sulphate has dissolved, dilute with water 
 to twenty-five gallons ; slake the lime, and add twenty- 
 
250 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 five gallons of water; mix the two, and keep thor- 
 oughly stirred while using. If the mixture is to be 
 used on Carnations, or the like, it will adhere better 
 if a pound of hard soap be dissolved in hot water and 
 added. 
 
 Kerosene Emulsion 
 
 Hard Soap i pound 
 
 Boiling Water i gallon 
 
 Kerosene 2 gallons 
 
 Dissolve the soap in the water; add the kerosene, 
 and churn with a spray or force-pump until they unite 
 and have the appearance and consistency of butter- 
 milk. Dilute with water to twenty-five or thirty 
 gallons before applying. 
 
 Pans- green Solution 
 
 Paris green i pound 
 
 Water 50 gallons 
 
 Keep constantly stirred when using. 
 
 Hot-water Bath 
 
 The hot-water bath will, in nearly every case, take 
 the place of insecticides and give better results, as it 
 thoroughly cleanses the foliage and leaves no bad 
 effects, if not too hot. Heat to 140 if for spraying, 
 and use before it cools; 136 if the plants are to be 
 dipped. 
 
Twenty-three] $&*!( ailtl CtttlS 
 
 Next in convenience to a pair of rubber gloves for 
 the garden are the duck mittens sold for household 
 purposes. All sorts of garden work may be done in 
 these, even the transplanting of quite small plants. 
 They have also the advantage of being very cheap, 
 or they may be manufactured at home. Always have 
 an extra pair on hand. Gardening without gloves is 
 ruinous to the hands and a needless discomfort. 
 
 For watering the window-garden, a small pot with 
 a long spout that will go between the plants will be 
 a great convenience, as by its use the farthest plants 
 may be watered without disturbing the others. This 
 means a saving of time on busy mornings, and insures 
 against neglect. 
 
 The life of the gardener who raises chickens is full 
 of perplexities. Certainly nothing is more vexing 
 and discouraging than to have one's plants repeatedly 
 scratched out of the ground by chickens. With net- 
 ting so cheap there is no good reason why chickens, or 
 other farm stock, should have the range of the yard. 
 
 Nothing is more filthy or conducive to disease than 
 the presence of fowls in the door-yard. There are 
 few house-yards that cannot be isolated from the rest 
 of the premises by a judicious use of wire-netting, 
 and where the conditions call for it this should be 
 the first thing done. It will not be at all satisfactory 
 to surround the beds with netting, which is incon- 
 venient and unsightly. The whole yard, or at least 
 the entire garden, should be inclosed, using netting 
 
252 The Flower Garden 
 
 high enough to turn any fowl, say at least five feet; 
 even Plymouth Rocks will take a four-foot fence. 
 For Brown Leghorns six feet is a safer height than 
 five feet. There should be no place on the top of 
 the fence on which the birds can alight. At the bot- 
 tom a board will make all secure, and prevent the 
 chickens digging under; and it will be better if set a 
 little below the surface of the ground, which should 
 be made hard and firm around it. 
 
 Fences may be made attractive with vines or plants. 
 Sweet-peas, Nasturtiums, Morning-glories, Cobaea 
 scandens, Wild Cucumbers, the Scarlet- fruited Gourd, 
 Roses, Clematis or Honeysuckles make a good back- 
 ground for the lawn and beds of bright flowers. 
 
Chapter TJTENTT-FOUR 
 
 Chapter of 3Bon't0 
 
 DON'T forget to air the hotbeds on warm, 
 sunny days, and to protect them on 
 cold ones. 
 Don't forget that plants need room 
 to develop, and set them far enough 
 apart to make this possible. 
 
 Don't forget to water the window-boxes every day, 
 and to keep the sand in the sand-box wet all the 
 time. 
 
 Don't forget to go over the Pansies and Sweet- 
 peas every day, and remove all withered flowers. 
 Don't let them suffer for want of water at any period 
 of their bloom. 
 
 Don't try to raise more plants than you have room 
 for, or strength and time to cultivate. A few plants 
 well cared for are better than a neglected garden 
 a most discouraging sight. The gardener will find 
 enough real difficulty without inviting disaster. 
 
 Don't try to follow all the advice that is offered 
 you; make up your mind what you want to do and 
 go steadily ahead. If you fail you will know how, 
 
 53 
 
254 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 and why, which is in itself a distinct gain. It is a 
 good rule never to take the advice of an unsuccessful 
 person, no matter how reasonable it sounds. Distrust 
 garrulous advice; the gardener with real knowledge 
 is not inclined to force advice upon others. 
 
 Don't be cast down by adverse criticism unless 
 your judgment tells you it is deserved. The person 
 who "knows it all" is never so much at home as in 
 some one else's flower-garden, where the principal 
 labour may be done with the tongue. 
 
 Don't be wheedled into spoiling your plants by 
 saving seed for one who is perfectly able to buy; in- 
 stead, give the address of the dealer from whom you 
 purchased, and suggest that he will be glad to fill 
 orders. Don't rob your plant of cuttings that are 
 necessary to its symmetry; this, too, is a case for the 
 florist. There are people who seem to feel it an in- 
 justice for any one to possess a plant with more than 
 one branch so long as they are not supplied with that 
 particular variety. 
 
 Don't, when you have purchased a dozen Violets 
 or Primulas, meaning to divide them after awhile to 
 make the border you did not feel like purchasing out- 
 right, be imposed upon to the extent of giving half 
 of them away to some one who has been waiting for 
 this very opportunity. The experienced gardener 
 learns to steer such people away from plants she does 
 not wish to part with, or have mutilated, but the 
 amateur is looked upon as legitimate prey. I have 
 
Twenty-four] OtttS *55 
 
 frequently known people to break a branch from 
 plants they were handling, with the expectation of 
 being told to keep it. The remedy for this sort of 
 thing is to immediately place it in the ground with 
 some remark about having a place for it. 
 
 Don't supply with cut flowers, plants, and the like, 
 people who spend more money for unnecessary lux-- 
 uries than you do for your whole garden, and then 
 tell you how foolish you are to spend so much time and 
 money, and work so hard for your flowers. Don't 
 be too deeply impressed with the sudden friendship 
 at gardening time of the woman who has managed 
 to get along without your society all winter. Don't 
 be imposed upon by the chronic plant-beggar, but 
 suggest to her that you will be glad to lend your cat- 
 alogues; that in them she will find, at reasonable 
 prices, all the things you have in your garden; and 
 that the florist will doubtless be glad of her patronage. 
 
 Don't, on the other hand, be lacking in generosity 
 of the right sort. Flowers may be given to rich and 
 poor alike, and carry no hint of obligation, or unfit- 
 ness. To the tired worker who has neither time nor 
 space to cultivate them, a handful of flowers, or a 
 potted plant, which can be spared from your abun- 
 dance, will make a bit of sunshine well worth the 
 trouble. For many who cannot spare the trifling 
 amount a single plant or packet of seed would cost, 
 the surplus plants from flats or hotbeds will be a 
 great pleasure, and one should not wait for re- 
 
256 The Flower Garden [Chapter 
 
 quests. Those who really cannot afford these things 
 are rarely guilty of the petty meanness of the pro- 
 fessional plant-beggars. It is a good plan to jot 
 down, from time to time as they occur, the names of 
 those you would like to benefit in this way, and then, 
 when you have surplus plants, send word of that 
 fact, and of the time when it will be convenient to 
 take them up. This will be better than sending the 
 plants, which might arrive when it would be incon- 
 venient or impossible to attend to them. 
 
 There are so many ways of giving pleasure with 
 flowers that one need never be embarrassed with a 
 surplus: the sick; the young girl who will enjoy 
 them for her party ; the young matron, for her prettty 
 luncheon; the church service, the humble funeral, 
 where the choicest and best should go. A beautiful 
 tact may be shown by a choice in harmony with the 
 taste of the recipient and the occasion for which they 
 are intended. Do not send all white flowers, or 
 flowers with a heavy perfume, to the sick-room. 
 Bright flowers are better. Notice the cheer in a pot 
 of golden Daffodils or a bunch of Hepaticas. A 
 charming thing is a handful of Japanese Morning- 
 glory buds picked and sent the night before, that the 
 invalid may watch their unfolding in the morning. 
 I have known these to give the greatest pleasure. 
 
 Don't be too greatly cast down by failures; they 
 have their uses. One failure, if it sets you to study- 
 ing out the cause and remedy, is worth a dozen hap- 
 
Twenty-four] OllSi 2 57 
 
 hazard successes. We grow plants with even success 
 for some time, then, without any recognised change 
 in the treatment, we meet with failure. We look for 
 the reason, and our education is begun. When we 
 have found the cause of failure, we have made a long 
 step forward. 
 
 Don't fail to take some good floral magazines, they 
 are helpful in many ways, and keep you in touch with 
 what other workers are doing. 
 
 Don't try to work in unsuitable clothing. Easy, 
 broad, solid shoes not any old run-down pair 
 should be considered as essential as a spade, or rake, 
 and skirts that clear the instep, and hang comfortably. 
 Waists with easy arm-holes and collar will enable one 
 to work with a degree of comfort that means the ac- 
 complishment of an amount of work in a morning 
 quite impossible were one less comfortably clad. 
 Skirts of blue denim, made Princess style, and ankle 
 length, with comfortable shirt-waists denim for 
 cool days, calico for warm make a thoroughly 
 comfortable outfit. 
 
 THE END 
 
Abobra viridif lora, fancy gourd, 
 
 96. 
 Abutilons, 63, 64, 92. 
 
 Diversity of form and colour of 
 New California, 64. 
 
 Time for flowering, 63. 
 Achimenes, 60. 
 
 Cuttings of, how to root, 60. 
 Aconite, Winter, 191. 
 Adverse criticism, hints about, 
 
 254- 
 
 Advice, hints about, 253. 
 Adlumia (Mountain Fringe, 
 
 Climbing Fumitory, Allegheny 
 
 Vine), 46, 92, 129. 
 Appropriate for use at funerals, 
 
 129. 
 Delightful grown on north side 
 
 of house, 129. 
 Gathering seed from, 46. 
 Sowing seeds and planting, 129. 
 A geratum, Cope's Favourite, 1 19. 
 
 Tom Thumb, 16. 
 Ageratums, 16, 34, 35, 46, 81, 
 
 88, 91, 92, 94, 96, 101, 119, 
 
 121. 
 Dwarf variety admirably adapted 
 
 for carpet bedding, 119. 
 How to sow, 35. 
 Indispensable for edgings, win- 
 dow-boxes and vases, 101. 
 Little Dorrit and Swanley Blue, 
 
 102. 
 
 Princess Caroline, 102. 
 Season for sowing, 102. 
 Should be clipped frequently, 47. 
 
 A geratu ms Con tin ued. 
 
 Tom Thumb, useful for edgings, 
 
 101. 
 
 Air-tight covers, should never 
 be used to protect plants, 205. 
 Alba plena Narcissi, 191. 
 Alba superbissima Hyacinth, 
 
 192. 
 
 Allegheny Vine, 129. 
 Allemannia Cannas, 15. 
 A II iu ms, care and treatment of, 
 
 194. 
 
 Altheas, 201, 202, 206. 
 Alyssum. See Sweet Alyssum. 
 Amaryllis, 75, 155, 162-165. 
 Evergreen, 162. 
 General treatment of, same as 
 
 for Crinums, 162. 
 Johnsonii, 163. 
 
 American Beauty Rose, 178. 
 Ammonia, a stimulant for flow- 
 
 ers, 25. 
 
 Ampelopsis, 128, 207. 
 Anchusa capensis, 119. 
 Anemones, 192, 193. 
 
 Treatment and raising of, 193. 
 Annuals, various, from seed, 98- 
 
 iii. 
 Hardy and tender, time for 
 
 planting, 53. 
 
 Should not be grown in window- 
 boxes, 96. 
 
 Annunciation Lily, 205. 
 Anthony Waterer, crimson 
 
 Spiraea, 197. 
 Antirrhinums (Snapdragons), 
 
 46, 9 1 . 93, 96, 98, 99- 
 Firefly, 98. 
 
 259 
 
260 
 
 The Flower Garden 
 
 Antirrhinums Continued. 
 Giant Crimson, Giant Yellow, 
 
 Giant White and Niobe, 98. 
 How to protect in winter, 99. 
 Queen of the North, 98. 
 Seed of, 46. 
 Soil suitable for, 99. 
 Transplanting, 98. 
 Useful for cut flowers, window- 
 boxes and vases, 98. 
 When to start seed, 98. 
 Ants, nests of, in the Lily bulb, 
 
 remedy for, 181. 
 
 Aphides, or green plant-lice, pre- 
 vention and remedy for, 70. 
 April, shrubs and plants that 
 
 bloom in, 234. 
 Aquatic Plants, 165-172. 
 Aquilegia. See Columbine. 
 Arrangement of flower-beds, 
 
 10. 
 Arundo Donax, ornamental 
 
 grass, 5, 16. 
 Ashes, a good fertiliser to sweeten 
 
 the soil, 25. 
 
 Should not be mixed with ma- 
 nure, 25. 
 
 Asparagus, 49, 64, 88, 94, 246. 
 All kinds benefited by frequent 
 
 repotting, 64, 65. 
 Benefited by use of good fertil- 
 iser, 215. 
 
 How to raise and manage, 65. 
 Asparagus plumosus nanus, 
 
 246. 
 
 Proper time for planting, 64. 
 Asparagus Sprengeri, how to 
 
 sow, 49, 50. 
 Successfully grown in baskets or 
 
 pots, 65. 
 Unmanageable without fertiliser, 
 
 216. 
 
 Asparagus tenuissimus, 246. 
 Asters, ip, 25, 34, 43, 53, 99. 
 A necessity of the fall garden, 99. 
 Aim of the specialist, 99. 
 Arranging for vases, 100. 
 
 A S ters Con tin ued. 
 
 Bees do not care for, 43. 
 Black beetle an unpleasant pest 
 
 to, 247. 
 Bride, 99. 
 Chrysanthemum flowered, 99, 
 
 IOO. 
 
 Cosmos borer destructive to, 247. 
 Early planting recommended, 
 
 IOO. 
 
 Frequent watering necessary, 
 
 101. 
 
 Giant White Comet, 99. 
 Japanese Tassel, 97. 
 Kerosene for killing insects on, 
 
 IOO. 
 
 Ostrich Feather, 99. 
 Paris-green in the watering-pot 
 
 for killing beetles, 100. 
 Peony, 99. 
 Perfection, 99. 
 
 Proper place for planting, 10. 
 Transplanting, 101. 
 Use of seed of, 43. 
 When to plant seed, 100. 
 Aster-beds, ashes for fertilising, 
 
 2 5- 
 
 Atmospheric moisture, main- 
 taining a fair degree of, 209. 
 
 August, shrubs and plants that 
 bloom in, 240-242. 
 
 Auratum Lily, growth of the, 
 on wooded hillsides, 184. 
 
 Aurea Bambusa, 171. 
 
 Aurora Pansy, 116. 
 
 B 
 
 Bacon rind, for keeping moles 
 
 from Iris roots, 200. 
 Balsams, 47, 102, 103. 
 
 Benefited by transplanting, 102. 
 Camellia-flowered varieties best, 
 
 102. 
 
 Double white and shell pink, 
 valuable for decorative work, 
 103. 
 
261 
 
 Balsams Continued. 
 
 Plenty of room required for 
 branching, 102. 
 
 Starting the seed, 102. 
 
 Transplanting, 102. 
 Bamboo, 171. 
 
 Requires abundant water-supply, 
 171. 
 
 Varieties of, 171. 
 Bambusa Arundinacea, 171. 
 
 Aurea, 171. 
 
 Metake, 171. 
 Banana plants, 145. 
 
 Caring for, in winter, 145- 
 
 Grow more ornamental indoors, 
 
 145- 
 Planted in tubs or open ground, 
 
 145- 
 
 Plants should be grown by them- 
 selves, 145. 
 
 Showy and attractive, 145. 
 
 Soil and water for, 145. 
 
 Southeast angle of building an 
 ideal location for, 145. 
 
 Storing in cellar during winter, 
 
 146. 
 
 Baroness Van Thuyl Hya- 
 cinth, 192. 
 
 Baskets, hanging. See Hang- 
 ing-Baskets. 
 Beetles, black. See Black 
 
 beetles. 
 Begonia cuttings, how to root, 
 
 60. 
 Begonia, Dwarf Bijou, 66. 
 
 Erfordii, 66. 
 
 Rex, how to plant and raise, 66. 
 
 Vernon, 66. 
 
 Vulcan, when to plant, 66. 
 Begonias, 39, 48, 58, 60, 66, 67, 
 88, 92-94, 97, 117, 150, 245. 
 
 An excellent place for, 245, 246. 
 
 Injured by use of fertilisers, 
 216. 
 
 Setting out, and storing during 
 winter, 67, 68. 
 
 The best varieties of, 66. 
 
 Bego n ias Con tin ued. 
 
 The finest flower for bedding or 
 
 pot culture, 67. 
 Begonias, tuberous- 
 Bedding out, 150. 
 Instructions for planting, bed- 
 ding and setting out, 67. 
 Proper temperature for growing, 
 
 150. 
 
 Shading from the heat, 151. 
 Starting and potting, 150. 
 Bermuda Oxalis, should be 
 grown in hanging-baskets, 
 
 J 95- 
 Bignonia Radicans (Trumpet 
 
 Vine) 
 Best method of supporting it, 
 
 140. 
 
 Blooms nearly all summer, 139. 
 Desirable as a climber, 140. 
 Grown as a lawn shrub, 140. 
 Hedges of, should be kept 
 
 pruned for symmetrical 
 
 growth, 139. 
 
 Most desirable for hedges, 139. 
 Not appreciated sufficiently, 
 
 139- 
 
 Black Beauty Cannas, 15. 
 Black beetles, a pest to Asters, 
 
 247- 
 
 How to destroy, 100. 
 Black lice, remedy for, 248. 
 Black spot," fungous disease 
 
 of the Rose, 247. 
 Black-eyed Susan, 136. 
 Blood, from slaughter-houses, a 
 
 good fertiliser, 28. 
 Blooming season of various 
 
 trees, shrubs, and plants, 
 
 234-244. 
 Boards for siding in making 
 
 flower-beds, 8. 
 Bone-meal, a substitute for, 27. 
 
 As a fertiliser, 28. 
 Bonfire Sal via, 121. 
 Bordeaux mixture, for fungoid 
 
 disease in Pansies, 115. 
 
262 
 
 The Flower Garden 
 
 Bordeaux mixture Continued. 
 As an insecticide, 244. 
 Formula for, 249. 
 Borders, exquisite flowers for, 
 
 197, 198. 
 Borers, destroying chrysalis of, 
 
 203. 
 
 Bougainvillea, 209. 
 Bouquet, an ideal, 103. 
 Bracket plants, Thunbergias 
 
 valuable for, in winter, 136. 
 Brackets, use of, increases ca- 
 pacity of window, 208, 209. 
 Bride Aster, 99. 
 Bride Rose, 178. 
 Bruant Geranium, for south and 
 
 west window-boxes, 91. 
 Bryonopsis, 96, 132. 
 Bulbous and tuberous=rooted 
 
 plants, 147. 
 
 Bulbs, for the amateur, 192. 
 For winter blooming, 192. 
 Hardy in Middle States, may 
 not be so in Northern States, 
 *9I, 192. 
 
 Hints on potting outdoors, 194. 
 Late fall or winter planting of, 
 preferable to spring planting, 
 188. 
 
 Of hardy plants, caring and pre- 
 serving, 195. 
 Burbank Cannas, 15. 
 Burpee's Defiance Petunia, 84. 
 Buying seeds, 41-47. 
 
 Cabbage- worm, how to destroy, 
 
 204. 
 
 Caladium esculent urn (Ele- 
 phant's Ears), 149. 
 An ideal plant for the amateur, 
 
 149. 
 Native of Sandwich Islands, 
 
 149. 
 Root of, edible, 149. 
 
 Caladium esculentum Con- 
 tinued. 
 Roots should be started in pots, 
 
 149- 
 
 Winter easily and multiply rap- 
 idly, 150. 
 
 Caladiums, 5, 15, 18, 22, 88, 89, 
 93, 149, 150, 151, 185, 186, 
 246. 
 
 Beds of, 5. 
 
 Proper soil for, 18. 
 Caladiums, fancy-leaved 
 
 Caring for, in fall and winter, 151. 
 
 Desirable for window-boxes and 
 for porches, 151. 
 
 Develop their colours best in the 
 shade, 151. 
 
 Flourish in a warm atmosphere, 
 
 I5I- 
 
 Gorgeousness of colour and deli- 
 cacy of growth, 151. 
 Calceolaria, 63, 68, 74. 
 
 Handling and raising, instruc- 
 tions for, 68. 
 Infinite variety of, 68. 
 One of the most easily cultivated 
 
 house-plants, 68. 
 Varieties and easy cultivation of, 
 
 68. 
 
 California Sunflower, 197. 
 Callus, formation of, in cuttings, 
 
 61. 
 
 Camphor Geraniums, 91. 
 Candidums, 182. 
 Candytuft, 46. 
 
 Cannas, 4, 5, 14, 15, 18, 22, 29, 
 no, 121, 141, 142, 145, 147, 
 148, 150, 185, 187. 
 Allemannia, 15. 
 Beds of, should be lower than 
 
 the lawn, 142. 
 
 Best way of handling roots, 147. 
 Black Beauty, 15. 
 Burbank, 15. 
 Care of, 185-187. 
 Chicago, 15. 
 Florence Vaughan, 15. 
 
f ntiejc 
 
 263 
 
 Cannas Continued. 
 
 French and orchid-flowered va- 
 rieties should be started in the 
 house, 147. 
 
 Frozen portions should be re- 
 moved, 185. 
 
 Grow from seeds as easily, 
 cheaply, and as soon as from 
 bulbs, 141. 
 
 Hints for planting and potting, 
 142. 
 
 Italia, 15. 
 
 Most convenient place for start- 
 ing bulbs, 148. 
 
 Orchid-flowered Cannas difficult 
 to winter, 186. 
 
 Papa, 15. 
 
 Planting in baskets, 147. 
 
 Proper soil for, 18. 
 
 Queen Charlotte, 15. 
 
 Roots to be saved should be dried 
 in the sun, 186. 
 
 Seeds should be filed before 
 planting, 141. 
 
 Should be wintered in a dry cel- 
 lar, 186. 
 
 Storing of tubers, 186. 
 
 Suitable soil for, 142. 
 
 Time for sowing seed, 142. 
 
 Time for starting, 147. 
 Canterbury -bells, cold-frames 
 
 useful to protect, 37. 
 Carnation-frames, 72. 
 Carnation support, an easily 
 
 made, 72. 
 
 Carnations, 39, 40, 61, 70-72, 
 76, 205, 250. 
 
 Giant of California, 70. 
 
 Growing winter plants, 72. 
 
 How to perpetuate any variety, 
 
 7i. 
 Keeping for winter blooming and 
 
 for second year, 71. 
 Keeping free from insects, 72, 
 
 73- 
 
 Layerings valuable for, 61. 
 Marguerite, 70. 
 
 Carnations Con tin ued. 
 
 Methods employed by florists to 
 produce long-stemmed vari- 
 eties, 71. 
 
 Most easily grown of all house- 
 plants, 70. 
 
 Planting and varieties of, 70. 
 Castor-oil Bean, 144. See Ri- 
 
 cinus. 
 
 Centrosema (Butterfly Pea), 130. 
 Beautiful plant when in bloom, 
 
 I3i- 
 Charming vine for north or east 
 
 window, 94. 
 Hard to propagate from seed, 
 
 130- 
 
 Slender growth but hardy, 132. 
 Transplanting and watering, 131. 
 Treatment of seeds before sow- 
 ing, 130, 131. 
 Chalcedonica Lychnis, hardy 
 
 white flower, 198. 
 Chameleon Nasturtium, HI. 
 Charcoal for preserving As- 
 ters, 100. 
 
 Chicago Cannas, 15. 
 Chicken fences, how to make, 
 
 251, 252. 
 Chicken netting, for use in the 
 
 hotbed, 37. 
 
 Chickens should not be al- 
 lowed in the garden, 251. 
 Chionodoxa, 191. 
 Christ and the Apostles. See 
 
 Crinum Scabrum. 
 Chrysanthemum F 1 o we red 
 
 Aster, 99. 
 Chrysanthemum lice, remedy 
 
 for, 248. 
 Chrysanthemums, 126. 
 
 Keeping free from insects, 127. 
 Planting out and cultivating, 126. 
 Potting and boxing, 127. 
 Treatment of branches, 126. 
 Cigar-boxes, convenient for rais- 
 ing fine seeds in, 48. 
 Cinder walks, construction of, 9. 
 
26 4 
 
 The Flower Garden 
 
 Cinerarias, 48, 58, 62, 63, 69, 
 
 143, 208- . 
 Care in raising in summer and 
 
 winter, 69. 
 
 Colours and varieties of, 69. 
 Treatment of, for preserving 
 
 through winter, 69, 70. 
 Clara Bedman Sal via, 121. 
 Clematis (Virgin's Bower), 65, 
 
 137-139, 203, 252. 
 Caring for and protecting in win- 
 ter, 138. 
 Cosmos borer destructive to, 
 
 247. 
 
 Flammula, 138, 198. 
 Jackmanni, 138. 
 Leaves protect roots in winter, 
 
 207. 
 
 Mrs. Edward Andre, 138. 
 Most expensive vines to buy, 
 
 137- 
 
 Paniculata, 138. 
 Planting and raising, 137. 
 Potting, 137. 
 Raising from seed cheapest way 
 
 of obtaining them, 137. 
 Ramona, 138. 
 Trimming plants, 139. 
 Clothing, suitable, necessary for 
 comfort for working in the 
 garden, 257. 
 Clover-root, 65. 
 Coal -ash walks, construction of, 
 
 9- 
 
 Cobcea San Salvador, 130. 
 Admirable for covering old trees, 
 
 130. 
 
 Cling to stone and brick, 130. 
 Foliage of, 130. 
 Manner of growth, 130. 
 Starting seed, 130. 
 Cobaea scandens (Cup-and-Sau- 
 
 cer Vine), 129. 
 Desirable summer vine, 129. 
 Height and bloom of, 129. 
 Position of, in the hotbed, 35. 
 Cocci nea Hibiscus, 108. 
 
 Coccinea Indica, foliaged fancy 
 
 gourd, 96. 
 
 Coix lachryma, 16. 
 Cold-frame, the, 37, 38. 
 Drainage of, in winter, 38. 
 For growing Gloxinias and root- 
 ing cuttings, 37. 
 For sowing Pansy- seed, 37. 
 How made, 37. 
 Protection of, at night, 38. 
 Useful to protect beds of tender 
 
 perennials, 37. 
 Coleus, 4, 5, 15, 46, 58, 59, 89, 
 
 92, 142, 143, 151. 
 Cuttings, treatment of, 59. 
 Indispensable in ornamental bed- 
 ding, 142. 
 
 Must not bloom, 46. 
 Period of germination, 143. 
 Pinching and watering, 143. 
 Raised from seed, 142. 
 Sensitive to cold, 143. 
 Suitable soil for, 143. 
 Colours, harmony of, in flower- 
 beds, ii. 
 
 Columbine, 104, 105. 
 Time for sowing seed, 104. 
 Transplanting, 104. 
 Common names of flowers, 
 
 217-233. 
 Compost, composition of fine 
 
 and rough, 51. 
 
 Compost heap, use for, 203. 
 Cope's Favourite Ageratum, 
 
 119. 
 Corn Fodder, winter protection 
 
 for flowers, 206. 
 Cosmos, 44, 103, 203. 
 
 Cut flowers of, popularity of, 103. 
 
 Early flowering varieties only 
 
 should be grown in the North, 
 
 103. 
 
 Excellent way of growing them, 
 
 104. 
 Fresh seed necessary every other 
 
 year, 104. 
 How to advance their bloom, 103 
 
Cosmos Continued. 
 
 Make ideal bouquets, 103. 
 
 Popularity of, 103. 
 
 Position of, in the hotbed, 35. 
 Cosmos borer, preventive of, 
 
 247. 
 
 Cow manure, best for the ma- 
 jority of plants, 23. 
 Crinums. 155-162. 
 
 Americana, 161. 
 
 Blooming, time required for, 157. 
 
 Capense, 160. 
 
 Easily grown, 155. 
 
 Erubescens, 160. 
 
 Expensive luxuries, 159. 
 
 Fimbriatum, 161. 
 
 Grandolia or Augustum, 161. 
 
 Kirkii, 159. 
 
 Kunthianum, 159, 162. 
 
 Lack of knowledge as to habits 
 of, by florists, 155. 
 
 Moorei, 160. 
 
 Must be protected from heavy 
 rain, 159. 
 
 Ornatum, 159. 
 
 Pedunculatum, 161. 
 
 Potting of the dry bulbs, 156. 
 
 Root-growth of, 156. 
 
 Scabrum, 160. 
 
 Secret of culture of, 158. 
 
 Soil required for, 156. 
 
 Treatment of bulb before growth, 
 
 157- 
 Water, amount of, necessary, 
 
 158. 
 
 Wintering of, 159. 
 Criticism, adverse, hints about, 
 
 254. 
 Crocus, 189, 192, 193. 
 
 A pretty way to grow them, 190. 
 Seed formation of, 189. 
 Crotons, 39, 89, 92, 151. 
 
 Best position for, in the sand- 
 box, 39. 
 
 Crown Imperials, 191. 
 Cucumber, Wild, 90-96, 132, 
 252. 
 
 Cup -and- Saucer Vine, 129. 
 Cut flowers, judgment should be 
 
 used in giving away, 247. 
 Cuttings, of common house 
 plants, directions for handling, 
 58. 
 
 How to save those liable to de- 
 cay, 61. 
 
 Lists for selection of, 58. 
 Cutworms, destruction of, 203. 
 Cyclamen, 42, 74, 75. 
 
 Bush Hill Pioneer, cost of seed 
 
 of, 42. 
 
 Protecting from moisture and re- 
 potting, 75. 
 Starting, raising, and setting out, 
 
 74- 
 
 Treatment of, in the spring, 75. 
 
 Cyclamen Amaryllis, must not 
 
 be allowed to dry out entirely, 
 
 75- 
 Cyperus, or Umbrella-plant, 60, 
 
 73, 74, 168. 
 Growing from seed an economy, 
 
 73. 
 
 Growing in jardinieres, 73. 
 
 How to sow the seeds, 73. 
 
 Raising from cuttings, 73. 
 
 Semi-aquatic qualities of, 73. 
 
 Two varieties of, 74. 
 Cypripedi'-im Acaule. See Jap- 
 anese Iris. 
 Czar Peter, blue Hyacinth, 192. 
 
 D 
 
 Daffodils, 256. 
 
 Dahlias, 27, 105, 148, 149, 186, 
 187, 204. 
 
 Best started in baskets of sand, 
 148. 
 
 Borer, how to destroy, 1 06. 
 
 Care and protection of, for ex- 
 hibition purposes, 106. 
 
 Cosmos borer destructive to, 247. 
 
 Easily raised from seed, 105. 
 
266 
 
 *The Flower Garden 
 
 Dahl ias Continued. 
 Easily wintered, 187. 
 For corsage wear, single varieties 
 
 best, 106, 107. 
 Hints on grafting, 148, 149. 
 Planting the seed, 105. 
 Should be wintered in a dry cel- 
 lar, 1 86. 
 Transplanting, and treatment 
 
 after, 105. 
 Variety desirable for cut flowers 
 
 and garden rows, 106. 
 Worms or beetles on, how to 
 
 destroy, 106. 
 Daisies, 107. 
 
 Beds, suitable for borders of, 107. 
 Protection of, in winter, 107. 
 Rockwork, colours suitable for, 
 
 107. 
 
 Starting the seeds, 107. 
 Day Lily, 201. 
 Deutzia Gracilis, 198. 
 Diagrams for planning a gar- 
 den, 11-14. 
 
 Dog-tooth Violets, 191. 
 Dolichos, where to place in the 
 
 hotbed, 35. 
 
 Don'ts, a chapter of, 253-257. 
 Drainage, good, necessary for 
 rendering soil light and sandy, 
 
 !7- 
 Duck mittens, for garden work, 
 
 250. 
 
 Dusty-miller,border plants of, 8. 
 Dwarf Bijou Begonia, 66. 
 
 Earth worms, how to destroy, 
 249. 
 
 Eastern exposure, combination 
 of flowers suitable for window - 
 boxes, 92, 93. 
 
 Edgings, plants used for, 10. 
 
 Egyptian Lotus, interesting pe- 
 culiarity of leaves of, 168. 
 
 Egyptian Lotus Continued. 
 Suitable for growing in small 
 ponds, 168. 
 
 Eight-foot flower-beds, 16. 
 
 Elephant's Ears, 149. 
 
 Emperor and Empress Nar- 
 cissus, 191, 192. 
 
 English names of flowers, 
 217-233. 
 
 Erfordii Begonia, 66. 
 
 Erianthus Ravenna?, ornament- 
 al grass, 5, 16. 
 
 Eschscholtzias, as a border for 
 Pansy-beds, 118. 
 
 Eulalia univittata, 5, 16. 
 
 Evergreen Amaryllis, 162. 
 
 Farfugium, 94. 
 
 Feathers, as fertiliser for shrubs 
 
 and hardy perennials, 28. 
 Fences, how to make attractive, 
 
 252. 
 
 Ferns, 23, 88, 94, 246. 
 Fertiliser for house-plants, 
 
 215. 
 Fertilisers, 23-29. 
 
 Injurious to Begonias, 217. 
 Necessary for Asparagus Spren- 
 
 geri, 216. 
 Next in importance to a good 
 
 soil, 23. 
 Filipendula, herbaceous Spiraea, 
 
 197. 
 Firefly 
 
 Antirrhinum, for bed- 
 ding, 98. 
 
 Flame Lily, 183. 
 
 Flats, or boxes, treatment of 
 young plants in, 50. 
 
 Floral magazines, helpful in 
 many ways to the amateur 
 gardener, 257. 
 
 Florence Vaughan Canna, 15. 
 
 Florists' sashes for hot-beds, 
 32. 
 
fnfcej: 
 
 Floss Flower. See Ageratum. 
 Flower-beds, arranging and 
 
 marking off, 6. 
 General effect of growing one 
 
 kind of flower in, 10. 
 Instructions for laying out, 14. 
 Instructions for making solid 
 
 beds of one flower, 53. 
 Water-supply for, 5. 
 Width of, 7. 
 Flower-pots, must not be filled 
 
 to the brim with earth, 210. 
 Flowering Maples, 63. 
 Flowers, common and English 
 
 names of, 217-233. 
 Many ways of giving pleasure 
 
 with, 256. 
 Necessary for a twelve-foot 
 
 foliage-bed, 14. 
 Occasionally appearing in two or 
 
 more sections, 232, 233. 
 Selecting, for the sick-room, 256. 
 Foliage-bed, how to make a 
 
 twelve-foot, 14. 
 Beds facing south warmer than 
 
 others, 188. 
 Design of, 12, 13. 
 Ideal bed for early bulbs, 188. 
 Manuring and fertilising, 187. 
 Soil of, should have good natural 
 
 drainage, 187. 
 Foliage plants, ornamental, from 
 
 seed, 141-146. 
 Formulas, for Bordeaux Mixture, 
 
 249. 
 
 For house-plant fertiliser, 215. 
 For insecticides, 249. 
 For kerosene emulsion, 250. 
 For Paris-green solution, 250. 
 Foxgloves, in the cold-frame, 37. 
 Freesia, 40, 192, 194. 
 
 Hints on caring for and raising, 
 
 194. 
 Freezing of soil in pots, no 
 
 harm to plants or bulbs, 214. 
 French Lilacs, 201. 
 Blooming season of, 201. 
 
 French Lilacs Continued. 
 Planting of, 201. 
 Useful as backgrounds, 201. 
 Fresh -air, how it should be sup- 
 plied, 213. 
 
 In the living room necessary to 
 keep insects from plants, 215. 
 Fritillarias, 191. 
 Frosted plants, treatment for, 
 
 214. 
 
 Frozen plants, how to thaw out, 
 213. 
 
 How to treat, 213. 
 Fuchsias, 58, 88, 91, 93, 94. 
 Fumitory, Climbing, 129. 
 Funkia (Plantain Lily), or Day 
 Lily, 20 1. 
 
 Impatient of disturbance, 201. 
 
 Needs protection in winter, 201. 
 
 Suitable soil for, 201. 
 
 Garden, the location and ar- 
 rangement of, 3-16. 
 
 Beds, laying out the, 13, 14. 
 
 Best position for the garden, 3. 
 
 Fall clearing of the, 203. 
 
 Flower-beds, elevated, 5. 
 
 Flower-beds, selection of flowers 
 for, 10. 
 
 Foliage beds for lawns, diagram 
 of, 10, 12, 14, 15. 
 
 How to prepare the flower- 
 garden, 8. 
 
 Lawns, arrangement of, 4. 
 
 Ornamental grasses, beds of, 16. 
 
 Ornamental plants for beds, 4. 
 
 Parti-coloured flower-beds, ar- 
 rangement of, n. 
 
 Rose-garden, design for, 12. 
 
 Scheme for permanent garden, 
 6. 
 
 Shrubbery, planning a, 12. 
 
 South slope, ideal situation for 
 garden, 3. 
 
268 
 
 'The Flower Garden 
 
 Garden Continued. 
 
 Walks, arrangement and treat- 
 ment of, 9. 
 
 Garden Spiraea, 197. 
 Garden-walks, marking off and 
 
 measuring, 6. 
 Gardener, amateur, advice to the, 
 
 20. 
 Geranium seeds, irregularity of 
 
 growth, 78. 
 Geraniums, 39, 58, 59, 62, 76-78, 
 
 89-92, 94, 192. 
 Bruant, 91. 
 Camphor, 91. 
 
 Choice varieties produced by 
 seeds from hybridised flowers, 
 76. 
 Developing of, a fascinating 
 
 study, 76. 
 Easy to raise, 76. 
 Flourish best in the sun, 211. 
 Hints on growing, 78. 
 In the sand-box, 39. 
 Ivy, 78. 
 
 Lady Washington, 76. 
 Most satisfactory for south or 
 
 west window-boxes, 91. 
 Pelargonium, 77- 
 Should be grown close to glass, 
 
 77- 
 Souvenir de Charles Turner, 
 
 91. 
 
 When to sow seed, 76. 
 Zonale, 77. 
 German Iris, colour effects of, 
 
 198, 109. 
 Germination of seeds, time for, 
 
 228-232. 
 Giant Gassier Pansy, 116. 
 
 Cost of seed of, 41. 
 Giant Crimson Antirrhinum, 
 
 for bedding, 98. 
 
 Giant of California Carnation, 
 how to raise, pot out, and 
 cultivate, 70. 
 
 Giant of California Petunia, 
 84. 
 
 Giant Trimardeau Pansy, 216. 
 
 Cost of seed of, 41. 
 Giant Welshman Narcissus, 
 
 192. 
 Giant White Antirrhinum, 91, 
 
 98. 
 Giant White Comet Aster, 
 
 99. 
 Giant Yellow Antirrhinum, 
 
 for bedding, 98. 
 Giant Yellow Hibiscus, 108. 
 Gladioli, keep well in winter 
 
 stored in flour-sacks, 187. 
 Gladiolus, 10, 22, 25, 152, 187. 
 Bulbs should be planted deeply, 
 
 152. 
 
 Childsi, 152. 
 
 Fall and winter care of, 152, 153. 
 Hints on planting, 152. 
 Improvement in culture of, 152. 
 Rapid increase of, 152. 
 Reasons for planting deeply, 152. 
 Require frequent cultivation ,152. 
 Should be planted in the full 
 
 sunshine, 10. 
 
 Gladiolus-beds, ashes for fertil- 
 ising, 25. 
 
 Glazing and painting old 
 window sashes for hot- 
 beds, 32. 
 Glechoma, suitable for the north 
 
 side of house, 91, 92. 
 Glory of the Snow, 191. 
 Gloves, gardening without, ruin- 
 ous to hands, 251. 
 Gloxinia-cuttings, treatment of, 
 
 60. 
 Gloxinias, 37, 39, 48, 58, 60-62, 
 
 78, 79, 151, 245, 246. 
 An excellent place for, 245, 246. 
 Caring for the bulbs, 79. 
 High temperature required for 
 
 growing, 151. 
 Hints on potting, 79. 
 How seeds are sown, 78. 
 How to start the plants, 151. 
 In the cold-frame, 37. 
 
f ntttj: 
 
 Gloxinias Continued. 
 Keeping soil moist, 78. 
 Mulch preferable to cultivation 
 
 for, 79. 
 Must be protected from heat, 
 
 cold, and draughts, 78. 
 Period of blooming, 79. 
 Potting, 78. 
 Golden Glow (Rudbeckia), hardy 
 
 yellow flower, 197. 
 Golden Saxatile Alyssum, 
 
 122. 
 
 Gourds 
 
 Develop rapidly after making 
 
 root, 133. 
 
 Good for covering fences or un- 
 sightly buildings, 132. 
 Liable to cutworms, 133. 
 Ornamental feature of summer 
 
 garden, 132. 
 
 Seed sown early in season, 132. 
 Gracillima univittata Eulalia, 
 
 ornamental grass, 5. 
 Grand Lilas, blue Hyacinths, 
 
 192. 
 Grass walks a nuisance to 
 
 the gardener, 9. 
 Gravel walks, construction of, 9. 
 Green fly, remedies for, 248. 
 Gruss an Teplitz Rose, 178. 
 Guano as a fertiliser, 28. 
 
 H 
 
 Hammock, view of the garden 
 
 from the, 4. 
 Hanging-baskets 
 
 How to water, 210. 
 
 Manettia Vine very attractive for, 
 
 136. 
 Plants in, require more water 
 
 than those on low shelves, 214. 
 Should be securely hung with 
 
 copper wire, 209. 
 Thunbergias valuable for, in 
 
 winter, 136. 
 
 Hardy perennials, planting beds 
 
 of, 10. 
 
 Hardy plants- 
 Moving and transplanting of, 
 196. 
 
 Setting out in Southern and 
 
 Northern States, 196. 
 Hardy shrubs and plants for 
 
 fall planting, 196. 
 Harmonising of tints in ar- 
 ranging parti - coloured 
 beds, n. 
 
 Heeling-in, definition of, 190. 
 Heliotropes, n, 39, 59, 80, 81, 
 88, 89, 91, 93, 117. 
 
 Care of, when grown as house- 
 plants, 81. 
 
 Channels should be opened in 
 roots of, to allow water to pass 
 in, 210. 
 
 Combined with Ageratum, effect 
 of, 81. 
 
 Desirable bedding plants, 81. 
 
 Lemoine's seedlings exceptional- 
 ly large and early, 80. 
 
 More easily raised from seed 
 than from cuttings, 80. 
 
 Proper time for sowing the seed, 
 80. 
 
 Secret of successful growing, 
 80. 
 
 Should be in front of the sand- 
 box, 39. 
 Hen manure suitable for cold 
 
 soils, 23. 
 Hepaticas, 256. 
 
 Hibiscus (Marshmallow), n, 46, 
 58, 103, 107-109, 203. 
 
 Africanus, hardy annual, 108. 
 
 An herbaceous perennial, 108. 
 
 Beds of, ii. 
 
 Blooms freely if not allowed to 
 seed, 46. 
 
 Chinese, 58. 
 
 Coccinea, a tender perennial, 
 108. 
 
 Cultivation of, 107, 108. 
 
2 7 
 
 The Flower Garden 
 
 H ibiSGUS Contin ued. 
 
 Do not bear transplanting well, 
 
 108. 
 Flowers the first season if started 
 
 early, 108. 
 Giant Yellow, partially hardy, 
 
 108. 
 
 Increase in size yearly, 109. 
 Principal varieties of, 107. 
 Should be potted very hard, 58. 
 Six-year clumps superb, 109. 
 Supports for, 109. 
 Time for planting, 108. 
 Hickory tussock-moth, de- 
 stroying cocoons of, 204. 
 Hints on planting and trans- 
 planting, 54-56. 
 Hints on potting, 57, 58. 
 Hints on shifting plants, 57. 
 Hollyhocks, n, 46, 109, no, 203. 
 Allegheny, hardy variety, no. 
 Attacks of insects on, 1 10. 
 Beds of, ii. 
 Planting, 109. 
 Require hilling up in winter, 
 
 no. 
 
 Seed of, 46. 
 Sowing the seed, 109. 
 Suitable for effective grouping, 
 
 109. 
 Honeysuckle, 61, 252. 
 
 Layering valuable for, 61. 
 Hoof -parings, good for the pe- 
 rennial flower-bed, 28. 
 Horse manure, good in clayey 
 
 soil, 23. 
 
 Horsfieldi Narcissus, 191, 192. 
 House-plant raising a most 
 
 fascinating work, 62. 
 House-plants, a good fertiliser 
 
 for, 215. 
 
 Care of, in winter, 208-216. 
 Cuttings of, easily rooted, 50. 
 Directions for handling, 58. 
 From seeds, 62-87. 
 Hotbed, the, 30-37. 
 
 A cheap way of making a, 32. 
 
 Hotbed Continued. 
 
 Best position for, 31. 
 
 Care and attention of, 36. 
 
 Chicken netting for use as screens 
 in the, 37. 
 
 Construction of pit of, 32. 
 
 How to construct a, 31-34. 
 
 Screens for, 36. 
 
 Treatment of plants in the, 33,34. 
 Hotbeds, airing and protecting, 
 
 253. 
 Hotbed-sashes, cost of, 31. 
 
 Proper size of, 31. 
 Hot-water bath, gives better 
 results than insecticides, 250. 
 Hyacinths, 38, 170, 188, 189,192. 
 
 Alba superbissima, 192. 
 
 Baroness Van Thuyl, 192. 
 
 Czar Peter, 192. 
 
 Grand Lilas, 192. 
 
 Hints on selecting, 192. 
 
 Ida, 192. 
 
 La Grandesse, 192. 
 
 Norma gigantea, 192. 
 
 Planting, distance apart for, 188. 
 
 Roi des Beiges, 192. 
 
 Should be planted alone, 188. 
 
 Treatment of, and potting in the 
 fall, 192, 193. 
 
 Use of cold-frame for, 38. 
 
 Varieties of, 192. 
 
 Wood, 191. 
 Hyacinths, Water, 170. 
 
 Novelty of, 170. 
 
 Nuisance of, in Florida rivers, 
 170. 
 
 Paris green must not be used in 
 water, 1 70. 
 
 Roots increase rapidly, 170. 
 Hypericum Moserianum, 197. 
 
 I 
 
 Iceland Poppies, 118. 
 Ida, yellow Hyacinth, 192. 
 Impatiens sultana, 58. 
 
271 
 
 Indian Shot, 141. 
 Insecticides, 246-252. 
 Insects in the Rosebud, rem- 
 edies for, 177. 
 
 Instructions for raising seeds 
 and young plants in flats 
 or boxes, 50. 
 Iris, 23, 166, 197. 
 
 Care required in raising various 
 
 kinds of, 197. 
 Should be divided every three 
 
 or four years, 199. 
 Transplanting of, 196. 
 Valuable for borders on drives 
 
 and walks, 198. 
 See, also, Japanese Iris. 
 Italia Cannas, 15. 
 Ivy, use of, for covering and 
 protecting walls in England, 
 128. 
 
 Ivy Geraniums, extra care re- 
 quired to keep low and stocky, 
 78. 
 
 Japanese Morning-glory, 91, 
 
 134- 
 
 Grown in pots by Japanese, 134. 
 Hints how to raise successfully, 
 
 134, 135- 
 
 Requires support, 135. 
 Should be started in house or 
 
 hotbed, 134. 
 
 Japanese Tassel Aster, 99. 
 June and July, shrubs and plants 
 
 that bloom in, 237, 239, 240. 
 June Roses subject to insects, 
 
 176. 
 Justicia, 93. 
 
 K 
 
 Kaiserin Augusta Victoria 
 
 Rose, 178. 
 
 Kerosene emulsion, 250. 
 Kilmarnock Willow, 140. 
 Krameri Lily, 182. 
 
 J 
 
 Jackmanni Clematis, 138. 
 Japan Lilies, beds of, n. 
 Japanese Hop 
 
 Deserves to be extensively 
 
 grown, 133. 
 Female plant only bears seed, 
 
 133. 
 Foliage very showy and effective, 
 
 133- 
 
 Pays well for care in cultivation, 
 
 133- 
 Requires an elastic support, 
 
 134- 
 
 Japanese Iris, best place for set- 
 ting out, 10. 
 
 Has no insect pest, 199. 
 
 Moles have a liking for roots of, 
 
 199- 
 
 Wonderful colours and size of, 
 199. 
 
 Lady-slipper. See Balsams. 
 Lady Washington Geranium, 
 
 76. 
 
 La Grandesse Hyacinth, 192. 
 Lantanas, 42, 46, 81-83, 9 2 - 
 Description of, 81. 
 Make fine hedgerows, 83. 
 May seed freely, 46. 
 Not a desirable plant for the 
 
 house, 82. 
 
 Starting the seed, 82. 
 Treatment of, in raising, 82. 
 Weeping Lantanas, 81, 83. 
 Will bloom freely in the house, 
 
 83- 
 Larkspur, excellent for rear beds, 
 
 II. 
 
 Lavender, n. 
 Lawn, a neglected, amount of 
 
 labour involved in a, 6. 
 Layering, a form of rooting cut- 
 tings, 61. 
 
2 7 2 
 
 The Flower Garden 
 
 Lay ing out flower-beds, 13,14. 
 Leaf-mould* composition of, 18. 
 For flower-garden, 7. 
 For use in boxes, 48. 
 How to make, 21. 
 Where found, 18. 
 Leaves, an excellent protection to 
 
 plants in the winter, 205. 
 Lilies, 9, n, 12, 168, 179-184, 
 
 204. 
 
 Auratum Lily bulbs, 180. 
 Best time for planting, 183. 
 Day, 201. 
 Flame, 183. 
 Funkia, 201. 
 General treatment of all kinds 
 
 of, 182. 
 
 Hardy, planting of, 183. 
 How Japanese protect their 
 
 plants, 1 80. 
 Ideal spot for, 12. 
 Injured by exposure to air and 
 
 thawings, 180, 181. 
 Japanese, 181, 182. 
 Krameri, 182. 
 Left to themselves, growth of, 
 
 183. 
 
 Longiflorum, 182. 
 Plantain, 201. 
 Washingtonianum, 182. 
 Lilium album, description of, 
 
 181. 
 
 Lilium auratum, 180. 
 Lilium Brownii, 182. 
 Lilium candidum, 180. 
 Must be planted early, 180. 
 Soil required for, 180. 
 Lilium giganteum, the most 
 wonderful and tallest variety 
 of Lily, 182. 
 Lilium rubrum, most easily 
 
 grown, 181. 
 Lilium speciosum, exceeding 
 
 beauty of, 181. 
 
 Lily-bed, the hardy, 179-184. 
 As a garden investment, 179. 
 Building the bed, 180. 
 
 Lily-bed Continued. 
 
 Fibrous-rooted plants, hardy 
 shrubs, and perennials give 
 best results, 179. 
 Selecting a site for, 180. 
 Lily, Pond- 
 Process of germination of, 169. 
 Sowing the seed of, 169. 
 Lily-pond 
 
 Cementing a pond, 166, 167. 
 
 Constructing a, 165. 
 
 Diverting a small stream for a, 
 
 166. 
 How to keep clear and sweet, 
 
 172. 
 
 Objections raised to, 171. 
 Renewing water in, 165. 
 Zinc tubs for small water-ponds, 
 
 167. 
 Liquid manure, how to prepare, 
 
 26, 27. 
 
 How to use, 28. 
 
 Little Dorrit Ageratum, 102. 
 Loam, the best garden soil, 17. 
 Longiflorum Lily, 182. 
 Lotus, 1 68. 
 
 Lotus Peliorhynchus, 92. 
 Lychnis, herbaceous perennials, 
 
 198. 
 
 Semperflorens plenissima, 198. 
 Lychnis Chalcedonica, 198. 
 
 M 
 
 Madame Gunther Nastur- 
 tium, in. 
 Manettia Vine, 93, 136. 
 
 Blooms more freely when pot- 
 bound, 137. 
 
 Daily watering required, 136. 
 Satisfactory for winter blooming, 
 
 ,136. 
 
 Time for repotting, 137. 
 Manure, preparation of, for the 
 
 garden, 24. 
 
 Proper use of, in the hotbed, 
 32. 
 
273 
 
 Manure-barrel, how to handle, 
 
 26, 27. 
 Manure-water, how to prepare, 
 
 25, 26. 
 Manures, cow, horse, hen, and 
 
 sheep, 23. 
 
 Quantity necessary for use, 29. 
 Maples, flowering, 63. 
 Marguerite Carnations, best 
 
 for outdoor blooming, 70. 
 Marshmallow. See Hibiscus. 
 Maurandya, 46, 9 o, 91, 93, 135, 
 
 246. 
 
 A beautiful vine for window- 
 boxes, 90. 
 Height of plant and colours of 
 
 flowers, 135. 
 Requires no special treatment, 
 
 135. 
 Seed of, gathered without harm 
 
 to vine, 46. 
 
 Suitable for trellises, window- 
 boxes, and vases, 135. 
 Time for sowing seed, 135. 
 May, trees, shrubs, and plants 
 
 that bloom in, 235, 236. 
 Mealy bug, remedy for the, on 
 
 house-plants, 248. 
 Metake Bambusa, 171. 
 Milk-and-Wine Lily, 161. See 
 
 also Crinum fimbriatum. 
 Miranda Petunia, 84. 
 Mixed seeds, variety of, 62. 
 Moisture-loving plants, best 
 
 place for setting out, 10. 
 Moles, liking of, for roots of Jap- 
 anese Iris, 199. 
 Netting and traps for, 199. 
 Monkshood, n, 46, 122. 
 
 Excellent for rear beds, n. 
 Montbretias 
 
 Desirable for cut flowers, 153. 
 Keep well through winter in 
 
 flour sacks, 187. 
 May be grown in corners of 
 
 flower-bed, 153. 
 Multiply rapidly, 153. 
 
 Montbretias Continued. 
 
 Resemble Gladioli in flower and 
 
 foliage, 153. 
 
 Moonlight Nasturtium, in 
 Morning-Glories, 42, 44, 46, 
 
 91, 94, 252, 256. 
 Reaching the roof by strings,. 
 
 94- 
 
 Require little root room, 94. 
 Seed of, 46. 
 See also Japanese Morning- 
 
 Glories. 
 
 Mountain Fringe, 129. 
 Mrs. Edward Andre Clematis, 
 
 138. 
 
 Mrs. Robert Perry Rose, 178. 
 Muck or peat, preparation of, 
 
 18, 19. 
 Myosotis, 119. 
 
 N 
 
 Narcissi, 38, 188, 191, 192. 
 Alba plena, 119. 
 All species are hardy, 191. 
 Emperor and Empress, 191, 192. 
 Giant Welshman, 192. 
 Horsfieldi, 191, 192. 
 Odoratus, 191. 
 Paper white, 192. 
 Planting of various varieties of, 
 
 190. 
 
 Poeticus, 191. 
 Treatment of, and potting in the 
 
 fall, 192, 193. 
 Trumpet varieties of, 192. 
 Use of cold-frame for, 38. 
 Varieties of, 191, 192. 
 Von Sion, 191, 192. 
 Nasturtiums, 15, 45, 92, 94, 96, 
 
 no, in, 252. 
 
 Chameleon, new variety, in. 
 Dwarf varieties very attractive 
 
 for Canna-beds, no. 
 Flourish well in elevated beds, 
 
 III. 
 
274 
 
 The Flower Garden 
 
 Nasturtiums Contimied. 
 
 Grown on strings and trellises, 
 
 in. 
 Madame Gunther, mixed variety, 
 
 III. 
 
 Make excellent edges for beds, 15, 
 Moonlight, pale cream variety, 
 
 in. 
 
 Require abundant root room, 94. 
 Saving seed of, 45. 
 Sunlight, new variety, m. 
 Tall varieties make effective 
 
 beds, in. 
 
 Trailers, not climbers, in. 
 Will not bloom well in shade, 
 
 no. 
 
 Nicotianas, how to sow, 35. 
 Nine-foot flower-beds, 15. 
 Niobe Antirrhinum, for bed- 
 ding, 98. 
 
 Norma gigantea Hyacinth, 192. 
 Northern exposure, combina- 
 tion of flowers suitable for 
 window-boxes, 93, 94. 
 Nymphaeas, 168-170 
 
 Hardy, for planting in soil of 
 
 Lily-pond, 168. 
 
 Varieties of, suitable for amateur 
 cultivation, 169. 
 
 O 
 
 Odds and ends, chapter of, 245- 
 
 252. 
 
 Odoratus Narcissus, 191. 
 Orchid-flowered Cannas, treat- 
 ment of, in winter, 186. 
 Oriental Poppies, 118. 
 Ornamental foliage plants, 
 
 beds of, 4. 
 
 From seeds, 141-146. 
 Ornamental grasses, 5. 
 Nine-foot bed of, 16. 
 On lawns recommended, 16. 
 Ornithpgalum arabicum, 192. 
 Requires high temperature, 194. 
 
 Ostrich Feather Aster, 99. 
 Otaheite Orange, 58. 
 Oxalis, Summer-blooming 
 
 Advantage of precocity of 
 
 growth, 154. 
 Bermuda, 195. 
 Desirable for borders, 154. 
 Extensively grown in parks and 
 
 public gardens, 154. 
 Good substitute for other plants 
 
 that have failed to come up, 
 
 154. ' 
 
 Hints on raising, 195. 
 How to buy and set, 154. 
 Most easily raised of all bulbous 
 
 plants, 154. 
 Rapid growth of, 154. 
 
 Paeonia. See Peony. 
 
 Pansies, 10, 18, 23, 25, 34, 37, 
 
 41,44, 53,67,8l, 84,85, 112- 
 
 118, 205, 206, 253. 
 Aurora, 116. 
 
 Best place for planting, 10. 
 Cold weather, care of, during, 
 
 112, 113. 
 
 Daily care of, 253. 
 Fungoid disease and mildew, 
 
 remedy for, 115. 
 Germination, period of, 112. 
 Giant Gassier, 116. 
 Giant Trimardeau, 216. 
 How to carry Pansy bed through 
 
 winter, 116, 117. 
 How to raise sturdy plants, 112. 
 In the cold-frame, 37. 
 Planting, best place for, 115. 
 Seeds, fresh, every year for best 
 
 varieties, 116. 
 Snow Queen, 116. 
 Soot as a fertiliser for, 25. 
 Sowing in cold-frame or hotbed, 
 
 112. 
 Special mixtures of seeds, 116. 
 
Alphabetical 
 
 275 
 
 Pansies Continued. 
 
 Spring, treatment of roots in the, 
 
 113- 
 
 Time for sowing seed, 112. 
 
 Transplanting, 113. 
 
 Watering beds of, 114. 
 Pansy-bed, the, 112-119. 
 
 Proper soil for, 18. 
 Pansy-seed 
 
 Should be grown by a specialist, 
 
 44- 
 
 The best is the cheapest, 41. 
 Papa Canna, 15. 
 Paper White Narcissus, 192. 
 Paris green, 100, 170, 172, 177, 
 
 247, 249. 
 
 Paris green solution, 250. 
 Parti-coloured beds of flow- 
 ers, arrangement of, n. 
 Pelargonium Geraniums 
 Cuttings of, for new plants, 77. 
 Time for blooming, 77. 
 Very satisfactory when raised 
 
 from seed, 77. 
 Pennisetum Ruppellianum, 
 
 16. 
 Peonies, 9, n, 179, 200, 201, 
 
 204, 206. 
 
 Best soil and location for, 200. 
 Raised beds of, n. 
 Peony Aster, 99. 
 Peony -beds, should be heavily 
 mulched with manure in the 
 fall, 20 1. 
 Perennial-beds, must be well 
 
 rounded up, 204. 
 
 Perennials, benefited by re- 
 moval of withered flowers, 
 46. 
 
 Hardy, grouping of, in flower- 
 beds, 10. 
 
 Perfection Aster, 99. 
 Perpetuals, hardy, 176. 
 Petunias, 9, 35, 42, 45, 58, 83- 
 
 85, 93, 96, 117. 
 Bloom freely in the house, 85. 
 Burpee's Defiance, 84. 
 
 Pe tu n ias Con tin ued. 
 
 Double variety more suitable for 
 
 pots, vases, and bedding out, 
 
 84. 
 
 Giant of California, 84. 
 Growing plants of, from seed, 
 
 45- 
 
 How to distinguish the finer va- 
 rieties, 85. 
 
 How to sow seed of, 35. 
 Improvement in growth of, the 
 
 last few years, 83. 
 Instructions for raising, 84. 
 Miranda, 84. 
 Poor or inferior plants should be 
 
 removed, 85. 
 
 Potting and caring for, 85. 
 Young plants require great care, 
 
 84. 
 
 Phacelia, 96. 
 Phlox Drummondi, n, 16, 42, 
 
 91, 96, 119. 
 Beds of, ii. 
 
 Border of dwarf variety, 119. 
 Germination of seed, 119. 
 Phlox subulata, border plants 
 
 of, 8. 
 Pinks, grow best from self-sown 
 
 seed, 45. 
 Plant enemies, increase of, 246, 
 
 247. 
 
 Plant growing, failures in, 58. 
 Plant lice, or green fly, remedies 
 
 for, 248. 
 
 Plantain Li|y, 201. 
 Planting seed, 34-36. 
 Plants- 
 Blooming season of various, 
 
 234-244. 
 
 For winter blooming should not 
 be exposed to chilly nights, 
 208. 
 
 How to treat when frozen, 213. 
 Learning to keep, 254. 
 Method of shifting and bedding 
 
 out, 51. 
 Need room to develop, 253. 
 
2 7 6 
 
 The Flower Garden 
 
 Plants Continued. 
 
 No more should be raised than 
 
 there is room for, 253. 
 Proper breathing of, 211. 
 Protecting from cold and sun, 
 
 204, 205. 
 
 Protection for tall ones, 206. 
 Received by mail, treatment of, 
 before being put in window- 
 boxes, 95. 
 Saving seed and giving away 
 
 cuttings, 254. 
 Should have room to breathe and 
 
 grow, 208. 
 Sudden change of temperature 
 
 should be avoided, 212. 
 Support should be given to such 
 
 as need it, 212. 
 Transplantation of, in the fall, 
 
 196. 
 
 Treatment of, for winter bloom- 
 ing, 51. 
 
 Wintering of, 196. 
 Poa, an edible food of the Sand- 
 wich Islands, 149. 
 Pond Lily, 169. 
 Poeticus Narcissus, 191. 
 Poetic us o mat us Narcissus, 
 
 191. 
 
 Polyanthus, 191. 
 Poppies, 44, 117-119, 170. 
 Hunnemannia fumariaef olia, 1 18. 
 Iceland, 118. 
 Oriental, 118. 
 Shirley, 117. 
 Should not be grown too closely, 
 
 118. 
 
 Value of seed from, 44. 
 Poppies, Water, 170, 171. 
 
 Attractiveness of, 171. 
 Poppy -seed, sowing in the 
 
 Pansy-bed, 117. 
 
 Porches, Thunbergias valuable 
 for covering foundations of, 
 136. 
 
 Pot-bound plants, how to re- 
 move, 57. 
 
 Potting, hints on, 57, 58. 
 Potting-soil, always keep ready 
 for use, 40. 
 
 How to obtain, 21. 
 Primroses, 63, 86, 87, 246. 
 
 Blooming time, 86. 
 
 General treatment of, 86. 
 
 Potting, 86. 
 
 Primula obconica grown in shal- 
 low dishes, 87. 
 
 Raising from seed, 87. 
 
 Receptacles for, 86. 
 
 Repeated shifting aids blooming, 
 86. 
 
 Root room necessary, 86. 
 Primula obconica, 87. 
 Primulas, 48, 58. 
 Princess Caroline Ageratum, 
 
 101, 102. 
 
 9 
 
 Queen Charlotte Cannas, 15. 
 Queen of the North Antirrhi- 
 num, 98. 
 
 R 
 
 Radicans Bignonia, 139, 140. 
 Ragged Robin (Viscaria), red, 
 
 scented flower, 198. 
 Ramona Clematis, 138. 
 Red Spider, remedy for, 248. 
 Repotting, meaning of term, 56. 
 Repotting house-plants in 
 
 summer, 40. 
 Rex Begonia, 66. 
 Rhododendrons, protection of, 
 
 in Northern winters, 206. 
 Ricinus (Castor-oil Plant), 4, 5, 
 
 14, 15, 18, 29, 35, 46, 121, 
 
 144, 150, 200. 
 Beds of, 5. 
 Good background for low shrubs, 
 
 144. 
 
Ricinus Continued. 
 In flower-beds, 14, 15. 
 Most tropical looking plant in 
 
 cultivation, 144. 
 Position of, in the hotbed, 3$. 
 Proper soil for, 18. 
 Seed of, 46. 
 Seeds should be started in house 
 
 pots, 144. 
 Soil must be heavily manured 
 
 and well watered, 144. 
 Transplanting, 144. 
 Zanzibar varieties best, 144. 
 Rockwork, Thunbergias valu- 
 able for covering, 136. 
 Roi des Beiges, a red Hyacinth, 
 
 192. 
 Rose, the, need of constant care 
 
 of, 247. 
 Rose-bed, care of the Summer, 
 
 173-178. 
 
 Choice of plats for the, 178. 
 Cutting and pruning, 175, 176. 
 Hardy Perpetuals, caring for, 
 
 176. 
 Insect enemies of Roses, 176, 
 
 177- 
 
 Manuring, 175. 
 Planting the bed, 175. 
 Soil suitable for, 175. 
 Sunny, protected situation neces- 
 sary, 175. 
 Treatment of Roses that refuse 
 
 to bloom, 176. 
 
 Rose-bug, destruction of, 249. 
 Rose-bugs and beetles, remedy 
 
 for, 177. 
 
 Rose Campion (Lychnis), herb- 
 aceous perennial, 198. 
 Rose-CUttmgS, handling of, 59. 
 Rose-garden, design for, 12, 13. 
 Rose-hopper or thrips, on Rose 
 
 leaves, remedy for, 177, 248. 
 Rose of Sharon (Althea) 
 Method of blooming, 202. 
 Winter care of young and old 
 trees, 202. 
 
 Rose-slugs, how to get rid of, 
 
 177. 248. 
 Rose, June, 173, 174. 
 
 Cultivation and pruning of, 173, 
 
 174. 
 Hardy climbers, treatment of, 
 
 174- 
 
 Insects, a pest to, 176. 
 Labor of caring for, objectionable 
 
 to some, 173. 
 Mulching in the fall, 174. 
 New wood should be encouraged, 
 
 174. 
 
 Thorniness of, 173. 
 Winter protection of, 174. 
 Rose, Tea, 174, 175. 
 
 Excellent for summer Rose-bed, 
 
 174. 
 Insects, generally free from, 
 
 176. 
 Mildew, how to avoid and rem 
 
 edy for, 177. 
 Potting, 175. 
 Transplanting into open ground, 
 
 175- 
 Roses, 3, 17, 18, 23, 25, 27, 
 
 37,; 39, 58, 59, 61, 173-178. 
 
 252. 
 
 American Beauty, 178. 
 Bride, 178. 
 Climbing, winter protection of, 
 
 204. 
 
 Gruss an Teplitz, 178. 
 Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, 
 
 178. 
 Kept in house in winter, how to 
 
 keep free from pests and in- 
 
 sects, 178. 
 
 Mrs. Robert Perry, 178. 
 North winds disastrous to, 3. 
 Proper soil for, 17. 
 Soot a good fertiliser for, 25. 
 Virginia R. Coxe, 178. 
 Rubber gloves for garden 
 
 work, 250. 
 Rubber-plants, rooting and care 
 
 of, 60. 
 
2 7 8 
 
 The Flower Garden 
 
 Rubber Sprinklers, indispens- 
 able for watering hanging- 
 baskets, 214. 
 
 Rudbeckia, 197. 
 
 Ruffled Giant Petunia, 84. 
 
 S. A. Nutt Geranium, for south 
 
 and west window-boxes, 91. 
 St. John's Wort (Hypericum 
 Moserainum), a perennial, 197. 
 Salt pork, for keeping moles from 
 
 Iris roots, 200. 
 Sal via (Flowering Sage), 5, 14, 
 
 15, 18, 29, 46, 120. 
 Bonfire, 121. 
 Clara Bedman, 121. 
 Desirable for bedding purposes, 
 
 120. 
 
 Do well in partial shade, 120. 
 
 Most congenial soil, 120. 
 
 Root readily in wet sand, 121. 
 
 Scarlet, 14, 15. 
 
 Seed germination, 121. 
 
 Splendens, 5, 121. 
 
 Subject to red spider in the 
 house, 120. 
 
 When to start seed, 120. 
 
 White-flowered variety, 121. 
 Sal via patens, 121. 
 
 Seldom seen in gardens, 122. 
 
 Wonderful blue shade of, 122. 
 Salvias 
 
 Proper soil for, 18. 
 
 Seed freely, 46. 
 San Salvador Cobaea, 130. 
 Sand, white or grey, best for 
 
 potting, 21. 
 Sand-box, the, 38-40. 
 
 A fascinating spot, 39. 
 
 How to make one, 38. 
 
 Summer storage of plants in, 38. 
 Saxatile, golden, 122. 
 
 Desirable for edging or rock- 
 work, 122. 
 
 Scilla, 189, 190, 192, 193. 
 Scillas and Crocuses 
 
 A pretty way to grow, 190. 
 
 Beds of, 189. 
 
 Lengthening of flower-stems, 
 
 190. 
 
 Protection of, 189. 
 Screens for the hotbed, 
 
 36. 
 
 Scythe-boxes makegood win- 
 dow-boxes, 94. 
 Seed, various annuals from, 98- 
 
 iii. 
 Seedlings, blossom in the natural 
 
 course, 62. 
 
 Seed-planting, 34-36. 
 Seeds, coarse varieties, how to 
 
 sow, 49. 
 Fine varieties should be sown 
 
 broadcast, 49. 
 House treatment of some fine 
 
 varieties, 48. 
 
 Labelling and storing, 47. 
 Need little light while germinat- 
 ing, 49. 
 Protection of, in their early 
 
 stages, 30. 
 
 Purchasing of, 41-47. 
 Should be gathered when ripe. 
 
 47- 
 
 Starting in flats, 48-52. 
 
 Temperature and period of ger- 
 mination, 32. 
 
 Time for germination of, 228- 
 232. 
 
 Uselessness of buying cheap va- 
 rieties of, 42. 
 
 Vitality of some kinds of, 42. 
 
 What kinds to save, 43, 44. 
 
 Where to buy, 42. 
 
 Where to plant coarse, 35. 
 September, shrubs, plants, and 
 bulbs that bloom during, 242, 
 
 243- 
 
 Seteria magnia, 16. 
 
 Shade-loving plants, an excel- 
 lent place for, 245, 246. 
 
Sheep manure, desirable for 
 house-plants, 23. 
 
 Shell Flowers, 153. 
 
 Shelves for flowers in win- 
 ter, 208. 
 
 Should be securely fastened, 
 209. 
 
 Shelter, proper, for flowers, 3. 
 
 Shifting," meaning of term, 
 
 Shirley Poppies in the Pansy - 
 
 bed, 117. 
 Shrubbery, planning a, 12. 
 
 Shrubs, blooming season of, 234- 
 
 244. 
 Spring-planted, should be moved 
 
 when dormant, 196, 197. 
 Shrubs and plants, hardy, for 
 
 fall planting, 196. 
 Sir Watkin Narcissus, or Giant 
 
 Welshman, 191, 192. 
 Skirts, suitable, for working in 
 
 the garden, 257. 
 Slop-water should not be 
 
 used for foliage plants, 
 
 27. 
 
 Snapdragon. See Antirrhinums. 
 Snow Queen Pansy, 116. 
 
 Cost of seed of, 42. 
 Snowdrops, a pretty way to 
 
 grow, 190, 191. 
 Soapsuds a good fertiliser, 
 
 27. 
 
 Sod, preparing garden, 8. 
 Sod borders, involve too much 
 
 care in flower-beds, 9. 
 Soil, preparation of, for the 
 
 flower-garden, 7. 
 Replacing, difficulties of, 20. 
 Unsuitable, cause of many fail- 
 ures in raising plants, 19. 
 Soils, 17-22. 
 
 Solanum Jasminoides, 93. 
 Soot as a fertiliser for flow- 
 ers, 25. 
 South Slope, the ideal situation 
 
 for a garden, 3. 
 
 Southern exposure, combina- 
 tion of flowers suitable for 
 window-boxes, 91, 92. 
 
 Souvenir de Charles Turner 
 Geranium, 91. 
 
 Spade, results secured by use of, 
 in making flower-beds, 7. 
 
 Spading flower-beds, 8. 
 
 Speciosum Lilies, exceeding 
 beauty of, 181. 
 
 Speciosum roseum Lily, 181. 
 
 Speciosum rubrum Lily, 181. 
 
 Sphagnum moss, for wrap- 
 ping Rubber-plants' roots in, 
 60. 
 
 Spiraea filipendula, 198. 
 
 Spiraea Japonica, 198. 
 
 Spiraeas- 
 Anthony Waterer, 197. 
 Desirable for fall or spring plant- 
 
 ing, 196. 
 Filipendula, 197. 
 Garden, 197. 
 Mealy bug on, 248. 
 Van de Houttei, 197. 
 
 Spring, treatment of roots and 
 seeds in the, 113, 196. 
 
 Spring-planted shrubs, 196. 
 
 Stakes for house - plants, 
 40. 
 
 Stocking window-boxes, 95. 
 
 Subsoil, removing for flower- 
 beds, 7. 
 
 Sulpho-tobacco soap, a remedy 
 for plant lice, 248. 
 
 Sulphur, for mildew on Pansies, 
 
 "5- 
 
 Flower of, for dusting over rose- 
 leaves to prevent mildew, 
 177. 
 
 Summer, shrubs, plants and 
 vines that bloom all the, 243, 
 244. 
 
 Sunflower, California, 197. 
 
 Sunlight Nasturtium, in. 
 
 Sun-loving plants, care of, 
 
 211. 
 
280 
 
 "The Flower Garden 
 
 Supports for window-boxes, 
 
 how to make, 94, 95. 
 
 Surface-soil, treatment of, for 
 flower-beds, 7. 
 
 Swanley Blue Ageratum, 102. 
 
 Sweet Alyssum, 5, 9, 14, 46, 
 
 96, 121, 122. 
 
 Little Gem, edging for flower- 
 beds, 5, 14. 
 Sows its own seed, 46. 
 
 Sweet=peas, 46, 122-124, 252, 
 
 253- 
 
 Bewildering variety of, 124. 
 Culture of, 122. 
 Daily care of, 253. 
 Habit of climbing, 123. 
 Must not be permitted to seed, 
 
 46. 
 
 Planting, 122. 
 Sowing seed of, best time for, 
 
 122. 
 
 Watering, method of, 123. 
 Wire supports necessary for 
 growth, 123. 
 
 Tea-roses, 37. 
 
 Freer from insects than June 
 
 Roses, 176. 
 In the cold-frame, 37. 
 Temperature, a sudden change 
 of, should be avoided with 
 flowers, 212. 
 Thawing out frozen plants, 
 
 213. 
 Thermometer, necessary for the 
 
 hotbed, 35. 
 Thunbergia (Black-eyed Susan), 
 
 46, 47, 90, 92, 93, 136. 
 Admirable for basket or bracket 
 
 plants in winter, 136. 
 Grow freely from seed, 136. 
 Red spider attacks, 136. 
 Requires sunny situation, 136. 
 Seed may be gathered from, 46. 
 
 Thunbergia Continued. 
 
 Valuable for covering low trel- 
 lises, 136. 
 Tigridias, beautiful in colour, 
 
 153. 
 
 Ephemeral flowers of, 153. 
 Peculiar leaf of, 153, 154. 
 Potting and bedding out, 153. 
 Tobacco, use of, for killing plant- 
 lice, 248. 
 
 Tom Thumb Ageratum, de- 
 sirable for edgings, 101. 
 Tools necessary for the suc- 
 cessful gardener, 245. 
 Top-soil, removal of, in making 
 
 flower-beds, 7. 
 Transplanting, instructions for, 
 
 54. 
 
 Seedlings, 50. 
 The proper time for, 54. 
 Transplanting and repotting, 
 
 Trailing Fuchsia, 91. 
 Trapping moles in Iris-beds, 
 
 200. 
 Trees, blooming season of, 234- 
 
 244. 
 Trellises, Thunbergias valuable 
 
 for covering, 136. 
 Trumpet Vine, 139. 
 Tuberoses, do well in Gladiola- 
 
 bed, 164. 
 Double Pearl, blooms but once, 
 
 163, 164. 
 Must be started in a warm place, 
 
 163. 
 
 Plenty of water required, 163. 
 Potting, 163. 
 Tulips, 188, 189, 193. 
 Neglected beds of, 189. 
 Planting, distance and depth for, 
 
 1 88. 
 Plants of same height and season 
 
 should be set together, 189. 
 Storing away, 189. 
 Twelve-foot flower-beds, 14, 
 
281 
 
 u 
 
 Umbrella-plants, 60, 73, 74, 
 
 1 68. 
 
 How to start root, 60. 
 Unsuitable soil, cause of many 
 
 failures in raising plants, 19. 
 Urns, Thunbergias valuable for, 
 
 136. 
 
 V 
 
 Van Hotlttei, white Spiraea, 197. 
 Verbenas, 44, 45, 92, 96, 124- 
 127. 
 
 Colours should be kept separate, 
 124. 
 
 Enjoy rock-work, 125. 
 
 Thrive in any good soil, 125. 
 
 Treatment of seed before plant- 
 ing, 124. 
 
 Vernon Begonia, 66. 
 Vincas (Periwinkles), 15, 16, 46, 
 94, 125. 
 
 As border for Canna-bed, 125. 
 
 Bloom more freely if not allowed 
 to seed, 46. 
 
 Foliage and flowers, colour and 
 texture of, 125. 
 
 Moisture, fair amount of, neces- 
 sary, 126. 
 
 White-flowered, 15, 16. 
 
 Worthy extensive cultivation, 
 
 125. 
 Vines, 128-140. 
 
 Prejudice against, 128. 
 
 Time for planting, 53. 
 
 Training of, over sides of the 
 sand-box, 39. 
 
 Wall s indestructible when 
 
 covered with, 128. 
 Violets, 23, 37. 
 
 Dog-tooth, 191. 
 
 Protection of cold-frame for, 37, 
 
 Virginia Creeper, 128. 
 Virginia R. Coxe Rose, 178. 
 
 Virgin's Bower, 137. 
 Viscaria (Ragged Robin), a 
 
 scented garden flower, 198. 
 Von Sion Narcissus, 191, 192. 
 Vulcan Begonia, 66. 
 
 w 
 
 Walks, garden, construction of, 
 
 9. 
 
 Washingtonianum Lily, 182. 
 Water gardens, 104. 
 Water Hyacinths, 170. 
 Water, standing, injures roots of 
 
 all plants, 204. 
 Water-supply for elevated 
 
 bed, 5. 
 
 Watering seeds in flats, 50. 
 Watering soil in boxes, 49. 
 Watering-pot, should not be 
 
 used in sowing seed, 36. 
 Weeping Lan tana, 8 1, 83. See, 
 
 also, Lantana. 
 White, the most valuable colour 
 
 in the garden, n. 
 Wild Cucumber, 90, 91, 93, 96, 
 
 132, 252. 
 
 A beautiful background for Ge- 
 raniums in the window-box, 
 
 Willow, Kilmarnock, 140. 
 Window-boxes, inside, best 
 
 support for, 94. 
 
 Cheap and available boxes, 95, 
 96. 
 
 Combination of plants suitable 
 for a southern exposure, 91, 
 92 ; for eastern exposure, 92, 
 93 ; for northern exposure, 93, 
 94. 
 
 Economical arrangement of, 96. 
 
 Geraniums best for south or 
 west boxes, 91. 
 
 How to care for and raise flow- 
 ers in, 97. 
 
 Longevity of, 96. 
 
282 
 
 The Flower Garden 
 
 W indow-boxes Continued. 
 Plants in, require watering every 
 
 day, 253 
 
 Preserving during winter, 95. 
 Quantity of plants necessary for, 
 
 89, 90. 
 Stocking, 95. 
 Two boxes necessary for the 
 
 season, 90. 
 Window-boxes, outside, 88- 
 
 97- 
 Add to cheerfulness of rooms, 
 
 88. 
 Plants best suited to the light 
 
 should be selected for, 88. 
 Proper construction of, 89. 
 Suitable plants for, 88. 
 Supply of water necessary, 89. 
 Window -sashes, old, for use in 
 
 making hotbeds, 32. 
 Winter Aconite, 191. 
 
 Winter, care of old and young 
 
 trees in the, 202. 
 Winter protection of flowers 
 
 and shrubs, 203-207. 
 Wire netting, judicious use of, 
 
 in the flower garden, 251. 
 For Moles, 199. 
 Wood Hyacinths, 191. 
 Wooden frames, best results 
 
 from, as winter protectors, 
 
 203. 
 Work-table, indispensable in 
 
 cultivating a garden, 39. 
 Worthless seeds, 42. 
 
 Zanzibar varieties of Ricinus, 
 
 best for cultivation, 144. 
 Zonale Geraniums, time for 
 blooming, 77. 
 
 OF THE 
 
 ( UNIVERSITY ) 
 
&rtfwr 
 
 Author of "The Pedagogues" 
 
 THE TRIUMPH 
 
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 Fully illustrated. Postpaid, $1.62; net, $1.50. 
 
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 LEES AND LEAVEN 
 
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