B/EDEKER'S GUIDE BOOKS. GREAT BRITAIN, with 15 Maps, 30 Plans, and a Panorama. Third Edition. 1894. 10 marks. LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS, with '6 Maps and 18 Plans. Xinth Edition. 1894. 6 marks. THE UNITED STATES, with an Excursion into Mexico. With 17 Maps and 22 Plans. 1893. 12 marks. THE DOMINION OF CANADA, with Newfoundland and Alaska, with lU 3Iaps and 7 Plans. 18S4. 5 marks. BELGIUM AND HOLLAND, with 13 Maps and 21 Plans. Eleventh Edition. 1894. 6 marks. THE RHINE from Rotterdam to Constance, with 39 Maps and 21 Plans. Twelfth Edition. 1892. 7 marks. NORTHERN GERMANY, with 32 Maps and 56 Plans. Eleventh Edition. 1893. 8 marks. SOUTHERN GERMANY and AUSTRIA, with 15 Maps and 30 Plans. Seventh Edition. 1891. 8 marks. THE EASTERN ALPS, with 35 Maps, 12 Plans, and 7 Pano- ramas. Seventh Edition. 1891. 8 marks. GREECE, with 8 Maps, 15 Plans, and a Panorama of Athens. Second Edition. 1894. 8 marks. NORTHERN ITALY, including Leghorn, Florence, Ra- venna, vpith 26 3Iaps and 29 Plans. Tenth Edition. 1895. 8 marks. CENTRAL ITALY and ROME, with 10 Maps, 33 Plans, and a Panorama ot Rome. Eleventh Edition. 1893. 6 marks. SOUTHERN ITALY, SICILY, etc., with 25 Maps and 16 Plans. Eleventh Edition. 1893. 6 marks. NORWAY, SWEDEN, and DENMARK, with 26 Maps, 15 Plans, and 2 Panoramas. Fifth Edition. 1892. 10 marks. PARIS AND ITS ENVIRONS, with Routes from London TO Paris. With 12 Maps and 33 Plans. Eleventh Edition, 1894. 6 marks. NORTHERN. FRANCE, with 9 Maps and 27 Plans. Second "- Edition. 1894. 7 marks. SOUTHERN FRANCE, with 14 Maps and 19 Plans. 1891. 9 marks . SWITZERLAND, with 39 Maps, 12 Plans, and 12 Panoramas. Fifteenth Edition. 1893. t) marks. LOWER EGYPT, with the Peninsula of Sinai, with 14 aiaps, 32 Plans, and 7 Views. Third Edition. 1895. 12 marks. UPPER EGYPT, AND Nubia as far as the Second Cata- ract. With 11 Maps and 26 Plans. 1892. 10 marks. PALESTINE AND SYRIA, with 17 Maps, 44 Plans, and a Panorama of Jerusalem. Second Edition. 1894. 12 marks. CONVERSATION DICTIONARY in four languages. Eng- lish, Frencli, German, Italian. 3 marks. THE TRAVELLER'S MANUAL OF (CONVERSATION, in Kngmsh, Gkkman, French, and Italia 3 marks. UNIV. OF CALIF. LIBRARY, LOS ANGELES c / LONDON AND ITS ENYIRONS HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS BY K. BAEDEKER. WITH 3 MAPS AND 18 PLANS. NINTH REVISED EDITION. LEIPSIC : KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER. LONDON: DULAU AND CO., 37 SOHO SQUARE VV. 1894. All rkihts reserved 'Go, little book, God send tliee good passage, And specially let this be thy prayere Unto them all that thee will read or hear, Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, Thee to correct in any part or all.' UNIV. OF CALIF. LIBfJARY. LOS ANGELES iiTACK ANNEX 1>A B2 PREFACE. 9^ 1 he chief object of the Handbook for London, like that of the Editor's other European and Oriental guide-books, is to enable the traveller so to employ his time , his money, and his energy, that he may derive the greatest possible amount of pleasure and instruction from his visit to the greatest city in the modern world. As several excellent English guide-books to London al- ready existed , the Editor in 1878 published the first English edition of the present Handbook with some hesitation, not- withstanding the encouragement he received from numerous English and American correspondents, who were already familiar with the distinctive characteristics of 'Baedeker's Handbooks'. So favourable a reception, however, was accord- ed to the first edition that the issue of a second became ne- cessary in little more than a year, while seven other editions have since been called for. The present volume embodies the most recent information, down to the month of Julj^ 1894, obtained in the course of personal visits to the places describ- ed, and from the most trustworthy sources. In the preparation of the Handbook the Editor has re- ceived most material assistance from several English and American friends who are intimately acquainted with the great Metropolis. His grateful acknowledgments are specially due to the Rev. Robert Gwynne, B. A., who has contributed numerous valuable corrections and interesting historical and topographical data. Particular attention has been devoted to the description of the great public collections, such as the National Gallery, the British Museum, and the South Kensington Museum, to all of which the utmost possible space has been allotted. The accounts of the pictures in the National Gallery, Buckingham Palace, Hampton Court, the Dulwich Gallery, and the various private collections , are from the pen of Dr. Jean Paul RiCHTER of London. The Introduction, which has purposely been made as comprehensive as possible , is intended to convey all the in- formation, preliminary, historical, and practical, which is best iv PREFACE. calculated to make a stranger feel at home in London, and to familiarise him with its manners and customs. While the de- scriptive part of the work is topographically arranged, so that the reader may see at a glance which of the sights of London may be visited together, the introductory portion classifies the principal sights according to their subjects, in order to present the reader with a convenient index to their char- acter , and to facilitate his selection of those most congenial to his taste. As, however, it has not been the Editor's pur- pose to write an exhaustive account of so stupendous a city, but merely to describe the most important objects of general interest contained in it, he need hardly observe that the in- formation required by specialists of any kind can only be given to a very limited extent in the present work. The most noteworthy sights are indicated by asterisks. The list of Hotels and Restaurants enumerated in the Handbook comprises the most important establishments and many of humbler pretension. Those restaurants which the Editor believes to be most worthy of commendation are denot- ed by asterisks. The same system , however , has not been extended to the hotels , those enumerated in the Handbook being generally unexceptionable. The hotels at the West End and at the principal railway-stations are the most expen- sive, while the inns in the less fashionable quarters of the Metropolis generally aflford comfortable accommodation at moderate charges. The Maps and Plans, upon which the utmost care has been bestowed, will also, it is hoped, be found serviceable. Those relating to London itself (^one clue-map, one large plan, four special plans of the most important quarters of the city, and a railway plan~) have been specially revised for this edition, and are placed at the end of the volume in a separate cover, which may if desired be severed from the Handbook altogether. The subdivision of the Plan of the city into three sections of different colours will be found greatly to facilitate reference, as it obviates the necessity of unfolding a large sheet of paper at each consultation. The Routes to places of interest in the Environs of London, although very brief, will probably suffice for the purposes of an ordinary visit. Some of the longer excursions that appeared in earlier editions have now been transferred to Baedeker's Kandhook to Great Britain. CONTENTS. Introduction. Page 1. Money. P^xpenaes. Season. Passports. Custom House. Time 1 2. Routes to and from London. Arrival 2 3. Hotels. Boarding Houses. Private Lodgings 5 4. Restaurants. Dining Rooms. Oyster Shops. Confectioners 10 5. Cafes. Billiard Rooms. Chess 15 6. Reading Rooms. Libraries. Newspapers 16 7. Baths 18 8. Shops, Bazaars, and Markets. The Co-operative System 19 9. Cahs. Omnibuses. Tramways. Coaches 27 10. Railways 32 11. Steamboats " 38 12. Theatres, Music Halls, and other Entertainments ... 39 13. Concerts and Exhibitions of Pictures 44 14. Races, Sports, and Games 46 15. Embassies and Consulates. Bankers 49 16. Divine Service 50 17. Post and Telegraph Offices. Parcels Companies. Com- missionnaires. Messengers. Lady Guides 53 18. Outline of English History 56 19. Historical Sketch of London 62 20. Topography and Statistics 67 21. General Hints 70 22. Guilds. Charities. Societies. Clubs 71 23. Preliminary Ramble 75 24. Disposition of Time 77 25. Books relating to London 80 Sights of London. I. The City. 1. St. Paul's Cathedral 81 2. General Post Office. Christ's Hospital. Newgate. Hol- born 90 Paternoster Row, 90. — Peel's Statue, 91. — Barber Sur- geons' Court Room, 92. — Central Criminal Court. Hol- born Viaduct. St. Sepulchre's Church, 94. — Ely Chapel, 95. 3. St. Bartholomew's Hospital. Smithfield. Charterhouse 95 St. Bartholomew the Great, 96. — Central London Meat Market, 97. — St. Giles, Cripplegate, 98. — St. John's Gate. Bunhill Fields Cemetery. Friends' Burial Ground, 99. — Honourable Artillery Company. Allan Wesleyan Library, 100. 4. Guildhall. Cheapside. Mansion House 100 Goldsmiths' Hall. Bow Church, 101. — Gresham College, 103. — Mercers' Hall. Grocers' Hall. Armourers' Hall. St. Stephen's Church, lOL vi CONTENTS. Page 5. The Bank of England. The Exchange 105 Bankers'" Clearing House. Stock Exchange. Drapers' Hall. Dutch Church, 106. — Merchant Taylors' Hall. Crosby Hall, 107. — St. Helen's Church, 108. — Cornhill. Leadenhall Market. St. Andrew's Undershaft. St. Catherine Cree, 109. — Corn Exchange. St. Olave's Church. Minories. St. Jude's. Toynhee Hall. People's Palace, 110. 6. London Bridge. The Monument. Lower Thames Street 111 St. Mary Woolnoth, 111. — City and South London Electric Railway. Fishmongers' Hall. St. Magnus the Martyr's. Bil- lingsgate, 113. — Custom House. Coal Exchange, 114. 7. Thames Embankment. Blackfriars Bridge. Queen Vic- toria Street. Cannon Street 115 Cleopatra's Needle, 116. — Office of the Times. Bible Soci- ety, 118. — Heralds' College. London Stone, 119. — South- wark Bridge, 120. 8. The Tower 120 Trinity House. All Hallows, Barking, 127. — Tower Sub- way. Royal Mint. Tower Bridge, 12S. 9. The Port and Docks 129 St. Katherine's Docks. London Docks, 129. — Thames Tunnel, 130. — Commercial Docks. Regent's Canal. West India Docks. East India Docks. Millwall Docks. Victoria and Albert Dock,?, 181. 10. Bethnal Green Museum. National Portrait Gallery. Victoria Park 131 11. Fleet Street. The Temple. Chancery Lane. Royal Courts of Justice 137 St. Bride's. St. Dunstan's in the West, 133. — New Record Office, 139. — Lincoln's Inn. Gray's Inn, 140. — Temple Church, 141. — Temple Bar, 148. II. The West End. 12. Strand. Somerset House. Waterloo Bridge 145 St. Clement Danes, 145. — Roman Bath. King's College. St. Mary le Strand, 146 — Savoy Chapel. Society of Arts. National Life Boat Institution, 146 — Eleanor's Cross, 149. 13. Trafalgar Square 149 Nelson Column. St. Martin's in the Fields, 150. — Charin;; Cross. Charing Cros? Road. Shaftesbury Avenue, 151. 14. The National Gallery 152 15. Royal College of Surgeons. Soane Museum 183 Lincoln's Inn Fields, 183. — Covent Garden Market, 186 — St. Paul's. Garrick Club, 187. 16. Whitehall 188 Royal United Service Museum, 189 — Horse Guards. Gov- ernment Offices, 190. — Montague House. New Scotland Yard, 191. 17. Houses of Parliament and Westminster Hall 191 St. Margaret's Church, 198. — Westminster Bridge, 199. 18. Westminster Abbey 200 Westminster Column. Westminster School, 2'24. — West- minster Hospital. Royal Aquarium, 225. 19. Pall Mall and Piccadilly 225 Haymarket. Waterloo Place. Crimean Monument, 22 . — CONTENTS. vii Page ?ork Column. St. James's Square. Marlborough House. St. James's Street, 224. — Burlington House. Royal Soci- ety, 228. — Royal Academy. London University, 229. — St. James's Church. Geological Museum, 230. — Leicester Square, 231. 20. Regent Street. Oxford Street. Holboru 232 Hanover Square. Cavendish Square, 232. — All Saints' Church, 233. — Soho Squ; re. St. Giles-in-the-Fields. Bed- ford Square. Bloomsbury Square. Russell Square, 234. — University College. Catholic Apostolic Church. University Hall. St. Pancras' Church, 235. — Somers Town. Camden Town. Kentish Town. Islington. Highbury. Holloway. Canonbury Tower. Foundling Hospital, 236. 21. Regent's Park 237 Zoological Gardens, 2B7. — Botanic Gardens, 240. — St. Kath- erine's Hospital. Primrose Hill. Lord's Cricket Ground, 241. 22. The British Museum 242 23. St. James's Palace and Park. Buckingham Palace . . . 266 Royal Mews. Green Park, 270. 24. Hyde Park. Kensington Gardens and Palace. Holland House 270 St. George's Cemetery, 274. 25. Private Mansions around Hyde Park and St. James's . . 274 Grosvenor House. Stafford House, 275. — Bridgewater House, 276. — Lansdowne House. Apsley House, 277. — Dorchester House. Hertford House, 278. — Lady Brassey Museum. Devonshire House. Earl of Northbrook's Col- lection, 279. — Mr. L. Mond's Collection, 280. 26. Albert Memorial. Albert Hall. Imperial Institute. Natural History Museum 280 Gore House. Royal College of Music, 281. — School of Art Xeedlework. School of Cookery, 283. 27. South Kensington Museum. India Museum 285 Exhibition Galleries, 300. — Brompton Oratory, 303. 28. Belgravia. Chelsea. Kensal Green Cemetery 303 Chelsea Hospital, 304. — Royal Military Asylum. Chelsea Church, 305. III. The Surrey Side. 29. St. Saviour's Church 307 Barclay and Perkins' Brewery, 308. — Guy's Hospital. South- wark Park, 309. 30. Lambeth Palace. Bethlehem Hospital. Battersea Park . 309 St. Thomas's Hospital, 309. — St. George's Cathedral. Christ Church. Doulton's Pottery Works, 311. — Clapham Common. Dives'-. Flour Mills, 312. Excursions from London. 31. Greenwich Hospital and Park 313 32. Woolwich 316 33. The Crystal Palace at Sydenham 317 34. Dulwich 324 35. Hampton Court. Richmond. Kew 327 36. The Thames from London Bridge to Hampton Court . . 336 viii CONTENTS. Page 37. Hampstead. Highgate 340 38. Epping Forest. Waltham Abbey. Rye House .... 342 Chingford. 343. — From Rye House to Hertford, 344. 39. St. Albans 345 Harrow on the Hill, 345. — From St. Albans to Luton and Dunstable, 347. 40. Rickmansworth. Chenies. Chesham 347 41. Windsor. Eton 349 From Slough to Stoke Poges and Burnbam Beeches, 349. — Runnimede. HoUoway College, 351. 42. Gravesend. Chatham. Rochester 357 Eltham, 360. — Cobham Hall. Gadshill. Chalk, 360, 361. List of Eminent Persons 362 Index 366 Index to Plan of London in the Appendix. List of Maps and Flans. 1. Railway Map of England, before the title-page. 2. Map of the Environs of London, between pp. 312 and 313. 3. Key-Plan of London. 4. Plan of London in three sections. 5. Special Plan of the "West End from Baker Street to Soho. 6. „ _,; „ Holbom, Fleet Street, and Strand. 7. „ „ „ the City. 8. „ „ ;; the West End from Hyde Park and Bel- gravia to the Thames. 9. Railway Map of London. 10. St. Paul's Cathedral, p. 83; 11. the Tower, p. 122; 12. the National Gallery, p. 153; 13. Houses of Parliament, between pp. 192 and 193; 14. Westminster Abbey, p. 201 ; 15. Zoolog- ical Gardens, between pp. 236 and 237 ; 16. British Museum, between pp. 242 and 243; 17-19. South Kensington Museum, survey plan, p. 284 ; special plans, pp. 287 and 297 ; 20. Crystal Palace, p. 418; 21. Windsor Castle, p. 350. Abbreviations. M. = Engl, mile; hr. = hour; min. = minute; r. = right; 1. = left; N. = north, northwards, northern; S. = south, etc.; E. = east, etc.; W. = west, etc.; R. = room; B. = breakfast; D. = dinner; A. = at- tendance; L. = light. The letter d, with a date, after a name indicates the year of the person's death. Asterisks are used as marks of commendation. INTEODUCTION. 1. Money. Expenses. Season. Passports. Custom House. Time. Money. In England alone of the more important states ol Eu- rope the currency is arranged without much reference to the decimal system. The ordinary English Gold coins are the sovereign or pound [l. = libra) equal to 20 shillings, and the half-sovereign. Th.e Silver coins are the crovFn (5 shillings), the half-crown, the double florin (4 shillings; seldom seen), the florin (2 shillings), the shilling (s. = solidus), and the six-penny and three-penny pieces. The Bronze coinage consists of the penny (d., Lat. denarius), of which 12 make a shilling, the halfpenny (V2^')5 ^^^ *^® farthing ('A '^O- The Guinea^ a sum of 21s., though still used in reckoning, is no longer in circulation as a coin. A sovereign is approximately equal to 5 American dollars, 25 francs, 20 German marks, or 10 Austrian florins (gold). The Bank of England issues notes for 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 pounds, and upwards. These are useful in paying large sums; but for ordinary use , as change is not always readily procured, gold is preferable. The number of each note should be taken down in a pocket-book , as there is a bare possi- bility of its being in this way traced and recovered, if lost or stolen. Foreign Money does not circulate in England, and should always be exchanged on arrival. A convenient and safe mode of carrying money from America or the Continent is in the shape of letters of credit, or circular notes, which are readily procurable at the prin- cipal banks. A larger sum than will suffice for the day's expenses should never be carried on the person, and gold and silver coins of a similar size {e.g. sovereigns and shillings) should not be kept in the same pocket. Expenses. The cost of a visit to London depends, of course, on the habits and tastes of the traveller. If he lives in a first-class hotel, dines at the table d'hote, drinks wine, frequents the theatre and other places of amusement, and drives about in cabs or fiys instead of using the economical train or omnibus, he must be prepared to spend 30-40s. a day or upwards. Persons of moderate requirements, however, will have little difficulty, with the aid of the information in the Handbook, in living comfortably and seeing the principal sights of London for 15-20s. a day or even less. Season. The 'London Season' is chiefly comprised within the months of May, June, and July, when Parliament is sitting, the Baedkker, London. 9th Edit. | 2 2. PASSAGE. aristocracy are at their town residences, the greatest artistes in the world are performing at the Opera, and the Picture Exhibitions open. Families who desire to obtain comfortable accommodation had better be in London to secure it by the end of April ; single travellers can, of course, more easily find lodgings at any time. Passports. These documents are not necessary in England, though occasionally useful in procuring delivery of registered and poste restante letters (comp. p. 53). A visa is quite needless. Ameri- can travellers, who intend to proceed from London to the Continent, should provide themselves with passports before leaving home. Passports, however, may also be obtained by personal application at the American Consulate in London (p. 49). The visa of the Americ an ambassador, and that of the minister in London of the country to which the traveller is about to proceed, are sometimes necessary. Custom House. Almost the only articles likely to be in the possession of ordinary travellers on which duty is charged are spirits and tobacco, but a flask of the former and ^/o^^- of the latter are allowed for private use. Three pounds of tobacco may be passed on payment of a duty of Os. per pound , and (in the case of cigars) a slight fine for the contravention of the law forbidding the importa- tion of cigars in chests of fewer than 10,000. Foreign reprints of copyright English books are liable to confiscation. The custom- house examination is generally lenient. Time. Uniformity of time throughout Great Britain is maintained by telegraphic communication with Greenwich Observatory (p. 315). 2. Routes to and from London. Arrival. It may not be out of place here to furnish a list of the principal oceanic routes between the New World and England, and also to indicate how Transatlantic visitors may continue their European travels by passing from London to the Continent. An enumeration of the routes between the Continent of Europe and London may also prove serviceable to foreigners coming in the reverse direction. It should , however , be borne in mind that the times and fares mentioned in our list are liable to alteration. Koutes to England from the United States of America and Canada. The traveller has abundant room for choice in the mat- ter of his oceanic passage, the steamers of any of the following companies affording comfortable accommodation and speedy transit. American or International Line. Every Wed. from New York to Southampton. Cabin 80-250 dollars ; return-ticket (available for 12 months) 130-450 dollars. From Southampton to New York every Saturday. Fare 12-50^. ; return 22-90Z. The finest steamers of this line are the New York and the Paris. A steamer of this company sails from Philadelphia to Liverpool every Thursday, and from Liverpool to Philadelphia every Wednesday. Cabin 10 to ISgra.; 2. PASSAGE. 3 return-ticket 20 to SOgs.] intermediate Ql. London offices, 116 Leadenhall St., E. C, and 3 Cockspur St., S.W. Cunard Line. A steamer of this company starts every Satur- day and every second Tuesday from New York and every Saturday from Boston for Queenstown and Liverpool. Cabin fare 60, 80, 100, or 125 dollars, according to accommodation ; return-ticket (available for 12 montlis") 120, 144, 180, or 220 dollars. Steamers from Liver- pool for New York every Saturday and every second Tuesday, for Boston every Thursday. Fare 12, 15, 18, or 21 guineas, or 26^.; return-ticket 25, 30, or 35 guineas, or 45L The Campania and the Lucania are considered the best Cunarders. London offices at 93 Bishopsgate Street, and 13 Pall Mall. White Star Line. Steamer every Wednesday from New York to Queenstown and Liverpool. Cabin 60 to 140 dollars ; steerage 20 dollars. From Liverpool to New York every Wednesday. Cabin 12-120i, , return (available for one year) 24-40L ; second cabin 7-iOl. The Majestic and Teutonic are at present the largest vessels of this line. London office, 34 Leadenhall Street, E.G. North German Lloyd Line. From New York to Southampton every Tuesday and Saturday; from Southampton to New York every Wednesday and Sunday. Main saloon from 13i. ; after saloon from ill. The newest and finest boats of this company are the Havel and the Spree. Loudon offices, 65 Gracechurch Street, E.G., and 32 Cockspur Street, W.C. Hamburg - American Line. From New York to Southampton every Thursday. Saloon 1121/2-275 dollars ; second cabin 60-75 dollars. From Southampton to New York on Friday. Anchor Line. Steamer from New York to Glasgow every Satur- day ; from Glasgow to New York every Thursday. Saloon from 9gs.^ second cabin from 6l. 10s., steerage 5^. or 5^. 5s. The best Anchor liner is the City of Rome. London address, 18 Leadenhall Street, E. C, and 8 Regent Street, S. W. Allan Line. From Liverpool every Thursday to Halifax and Portland, and every alternate Tuesday to St. John's, Halifax, and Baltimore. Saloon 10-18^ s.; intermediate 6^s. London address, 103 Leadenhall Street. Also to New York weekly (Wilson Hill Line). Guion Line. Weekly steamers between New York and Liver- pool. Cabin fare 10-26i. London office, 5 Waterloo Place. Dominion Line. Weekly steamers from Liverpool to Halifax and Portland ; fortnightly from and to Bristol. Saloon 10-i5grs. ; intermediate Qgs. London address, 18 Cockspur Street, W.C. The average duration of the passage across the Atlantic is 6-10 days. The best time for crossing is in summer. Passengers should pack cloth- ing and other necessaries for the voyage in small boxes or portmanteaus, such as can lie easily in the cabin , as all bulky luggage is stowed away in the hold. State-room trunks should not exceed 3 ft. in length, 2 ft. in breadth, and IV2 ft. in height. Dress for the voyage should be of a plain and serviceable description, and it is advisable, even in midsummer, to be provided with warm clothing. A deck-chair, which may be purchased i* 4 2. PASSAGE. at the dock or on the steamer before sailing (from Is. upwards), is a luxury that may almost be called a necessary. It may be left in charge of the Steamship Co.'s agents until the return-journey. The Ocean Comfort Co., represented on the wharves at Liverpool and New York , lets chairs at 4«. for the voyage, and the International Steamship Co. provides the same convenience for 2s. On going on board, the traveller should apply to the purser or chief steward for seats at table, as the same seats are retained throughout the voyage. It is usual to give a fee of 10s. (2V2 dollars) to the table-steward and to the state-room steward, and small gratuities are also expected by the boot-cleaner, the bath-steward , etc. The state-room steward should not be 'tipped' until he has brought all the passenger's small baggage safely on to the landing-stage or tender. At Southampton the steamers of the American line (p. 2) enter the docks, but at Liverpool landing is generally effected with the aid of a steam- tender, to which passengers and luggage are transferred from the Trans- atlantic steamer. The passengers remain in a large waiting-room until all the baggage has been placed in the custom-house shed. Here the owner will find his property expeditiously by looking for the initial of his sur- name on the wall. The examination is generally soon over (comp. p. 2). Porters then convey the luggage to a cab (3d. for small articles, 6d. for a large trunk). — Baggage may now be 'expressed' from New York to any city in Europe. Agents of the English railway companies, etc., also meet the steamers on arrival at Liverpool and undertake to 'express' baggage on the American system to any address given by the traveller. Feom Liverpool to London , by railway , the traveller may proceed by the line of one of four different companies (202-238 M. according to route, in 41/2-8 hrs. ; fares by all trains 29s., 21s. 9d., 16s. 6d. ; no second class by Midland or Great Northern Railways). The Midland Railway to St. Pancras runs by Matlock, Derby, and Bedford. The route of the London and North Western Railway (to Euston Square Station) goes via Crewe and Rugby. By the Great Western Rail- voay to Paddington we may travel either via Chester, Birmingham, War- wick , and Oxford; or via Hereford and Gloucester; or via Worcester. Or, lastly, we may take a train of the Great Northern Railway to King's Cross Station, passing Grantham and Peterborough (with a fine cathedral). Should the traveller make up his mind to stay overnight in Liverpool he will find any of the following hotels comfortuble : North Western Hotel, Lime Street Station; Adelphi, near Central Station; Grand, Lime Street; Alexandra, Dale Street; Shaftesbury Temperance Hotel, Mount Pleasant. From Southampton to London, by South Western Railway to Waterloo Station (79 M., in 2V4-3 hrs. ; fares 15s. 6d., lis., 6s. 6d.). Hotels at Southampton: South Western; Radley's; Royal; Dolphin. From Plymouth to London, by Great Western Railivay to Pad- dington Station, or by South Western Railway to Waterloo Station (247M., in53/4-llhr3. ; fares 46s. 6d., 32s. iOd., 18s. 8d.). Hotels at Plymouth: Grand; Duke of Cornwall ; Royal; Westminster; Globe. For fuller details of these routes, see Baedeker s Great Britain. Routes from England to the Continent. The following are the fa- vourite routes between London and the Continent: — From Dover to Calais thrice a day, in I1/4-I3/4 hr. ; cabin lOs. , fore- cabin 8s. (Railway from London to Dover, or vice versd. in 2-4 hrs. ; fares 20s. or 18s. M.. 15s. or 13s. Qd., (3s. 2^/2d.) From Folkestone to Boulogne, twice a day, in 2-3 hrs.; cabin 8s., fore- cabin 6s. (Railway from London to Folkestone in 2-4 hrs.; fares same as to Dover, except 3id class, which is G.s.) From Dover to Ostend, thrice a day, in 3-5 hrs.; cabin bs. 6d., fore- cabin 6s. Id. From London to Ostend, twice a week, in 12 hrs. (6 hrs. at sea) : 8«. or 6s. 2. PASSAGE. 5 From London to Rotterdam , twice a week , in lG-18 hrs. (12 hrs. at sea); Yls. or lis. From Harwich to Hoek van Holland and Rotterdam, daily, in 8-9 hra. ; railway from London to Harwich in 2-3 hrs. (fares 135. '6d., 5s. iVJid.); fare from London to Rotterdam, 29». or IBs. From London to Aintterdam, every Wed. and Sun., fares 23«., 15s. From London to Antwerp., thrice a week, in 17-20 hrs. (8-9 hrs. of which are on the open sea)-, 2is. or 16s. From Harwich to Antwerp., daily (Sundays excepted), in 12-13 hrs. (train from London to Harwich in 2-3 hrs.) ^ 26s. or 15s. (from London). From Harwich to Hamburg, twice weekly (Wed. & Sat.; train from London in 2-3 hrs.); 22s. Qd., ils. 6d. (from London 27s. 6d., 25s. 9d., 20s.). From London to Bremerhaven, twice a week, in 86-40hrs.; 21. or il. From London to Hamburg, thrice a week, in 36-40 hrs.; 2l. 5s. or 1^ 9s. From Queenborougfi to Flushing, twice daily, in 8 hrs. (5 hrs. at sea); train from London to Queenborough in IV^hr., from Flushing to Amster- dam in 6-9 hrs.; through-fare 33s. tid. or 20s. lid. From Newhaven to Dieppe, twice daily, in 6-8 hrs.; 16s. or lis. 6d. (Rail from London to Newhaven, or vice vend, in 2-3 hrs; fares 13s. 9d. or lis. 3d., 10s. 6d. or 7s. lOd., and 4s. 8V-jrf.) From Southampton to Bremerhaven, by North German Lloyd Transat- lantic steamer (p. 3), in 25 hrs., twice weekly; fares 2l. 10s. or il. 10s. From Southampton to Cuxhaven, by Hamburg- American steamer (p. 3), in 23 hrs., fares Si. 10s. or 2l. 10s. From Southampton to Cherbourg, thrice a week, in 8-9 hrs. .fares 20s., 14s. From Southampton to St. Malo, thrice aweek,in 16-18 hrs., fares 23s., 17.t. Steamers also sail regularly from Hull to Norway, Sweden, Denmark, etc.; from Qrimsby to Hamburg, Denmark, etc.; from Leith to Norway, Hamburg, etc. See the advertisements in Bradshaw''s Railway Guide. On the longer voyages (10 hrs. and upwards), or when special attention has been required, the steward expects a gratuity of Is. or more, according to circumstances. Food and liquors are supplied on board all the steam- boats at fixed charges, but the viands are often not very inviting. Arrival. Tlioae who arrive in London ty water have sometimes to land in small boats. The tariff is 6d. for each person, and 3d. for each trunk. The traveller should take eare to select one of the watermen who wear a hadge , as they alone are hound by the tariff. Cabs (see p. IT) are in waiting at most of the railway-stations, and also at the landing-stages. The stranger had better let the porter at his hotel pay the fare in order to prevent an overcharge. At the more important stations Private Omnibuses , holding 6-10 persons, may be procured on previous application to the Railway Co. (fare Is. per mile, with a minimum of 3s. or 4«.). 3. Hotels. Boarding Houses. Private Lodgings. Hotels. Charges for rooms in the London hotels vary according to the situation and the floor. A difference is also made between a simple Bed Room and a bedroom fitted up like a Sitting Room, with writing-table, sofa, easy-chairs, etc., a higher charge being, of course, made for the latter. Most of the rooms, even in the smaller hotels, are comfortably furnished. The continental custom of locking the bedroom door on leaving it is not usual , but visitors should make their door secure at night, even in the best houses. Private sit- ting-rooms are generally expensive. The dining-room is called the 6 3. HOTELS. Coffee Room. In some hotels the day of departure is charged for, unless the rooms are given up by noon. Breakfast is generally taken in the hotel, the continental habit of breakfasting at a cafe being almost unknown in England. The meal consists of tea or coffee -with meat , fish , and eggs , and is charged for by tariff. Tea or coffee with bread and butter alone is, of course, cheaper. A fixed charge per day is also made for attendance, beyond which no gratuity need be given. It is, however, usual to give the 'boots' (^e. boot-cleaner and errand man) a small fee on leaving, and the waiter who has specially attended to the traveller also ex- pects a shilling or two. — In most hotels smoking is prohibited except in the Smoking Rooms provided for the purpose. — An assortment of English newspapers is provided at every hotel, but foreign journals are rarely met with. The ordinary charges at London hotels are as follows : — Bed- room 3-lOs., Sitting-room 5-20s., Attendance Is. 6d., Breakfast l-4s., Dinner 2s. 6d. -10s. Lights (i.e. candles or gas) are seldom charged for. Persons who make a prolonged stay at a hotel are recom- mended to ask for their bills every two or three days to prevent mistakes, whether accidental or designed. Numerous as the London hotels are, it is often difficult to procure rooms in the Season, and it is therefore advisable to apply in advance by letter or telegram. The large Terminus Hotels, which have sprung up of late years at the different railway-stations, and which belong to com- panies, are handsomely fitted up, and have a fixed scale of charges. Rooms may be obtained in them at rates to suit almost every purse. They are, however, more suitable for passing travellers, who wish to catch an early train, than for those making a prolonged stay in London. The following are the chief station hotels : — Great Western Hotel, Paddington Station, — Euston Hotel, Euston Square Station. — Great Northern Railway Hotel, King's Cross Station. — Cannon Street Hotel , Cannon Street Station. — Midland Grand Hotel, St. Pancras Station, Euston Road. — Great Eastern Hotel, Liverpool Street Station. — Charing Cross Hotel, Charing Cross Station. — Grosvenor Hotel, Victoria Station, Pim- lico. — Holborn Viaduct Hotel, Holborn Viaduct Station. Other extensive hotels belonging to companies are : — Savoy Hotel, Victoria Embankment (p. 116) and Beaufort Build- ings, Strand, with restaurant. — Grand Hotel , Charing Cross , on the site of Northumberland House (p. 151). — Hotel Metropole, Northumberland Avenue, elaborately fitted up ; table-d'hote break- fast 3s. 6d., plain breakfast 2s., lunch 28. -3s. 6d., table d'hote dinner (6-8.30) 58., R. from 3s. 6d., A. Is. Qd. — Hotel Victoria, Northum- berland Avenue, in a similar palatial style. — Alexandra Hotel, 16-21 St. George's Place, Hyde Park Corner. — Langham Hotel, Port- land Place, a great American resort. — Buckingham Palace Hotel, 3. HOTELS. i Buckingham Palace Gate. — Westminster Palace Hotel, Yictoridi Street, Westminster. — Hotel Windsor , Victoria Street , Westminster. — Jnns of Court Hotel , High Holborn , grand entrance from Lincoln's Inn Fields. — First Avenue Hotel, High Holborn, lighted through- out with the electric light ('pension' 15-258. per day). Some of the first-class hotels at the West End only receive trav- ellers when the rooms have been ordered beforehand , or when the visitors are provided with an introduction, Claridge's Hotel, 49-55 Brook Street, Grosvenor Square, long con- sidered the first hotel in London, and patronised chiefly by royalty, ambassadors, and the nobility, is very expensive. — Other well- conducted hotels of a similar character are the Albemarle, 1 Albe- marle Street; the York, 9-11 Albemarle Street; Buckland's, 43 Brook Street. At the W. end of Oxford Street , in Hyde Park Place , near the Marble Arch (p. 271), is the Hyde Park Hotel. In or near Piccadilly: — Berkeley Hotel, 77 Piccadilly and 1 Ber- keley Street. — Bath Hotel, 25 Arlington Street. — In Dover Street : Brown's Hotel (No. 21) ; Cowan's Hotel (No. 26) ; Batt's (No. 41) ; Holloway's (Nos. 47, 48). — Sackville Hotel, 28 Sackville Street. In Jermyn Street, Piccadilly : — British Hotel (No. 82) ; Water- loo Hotel (^o. 85); Brunswick Hotel (JSos. 52, 53); Cox's Hotel (No. 55); Rawlings's (Nos. 37, 38); Cavendish (No. 81). Park Hotel, 10 Park Place, St, James's Street, is a comfortable family house. In or near Bond Street: — Long's Hotel, 15 New Bond Street; Almond's Hotel , 6 Clifford Street ; Burlington , 19 and 20 Cork Street; Coburg Hotel, 14 Carlos Place, Grosvenor Square; Thomas's Hotel, 25 Berkeley Square ; Bristol Hotel, Burlington Gardens. In or near Regent Street : — Hotel Continental, 1 Regent Street ; Marshall Thompson's Hotel, 28 Cavendish Square ; Ford's Hotel, 14 Manchester Street, Manchester Square; Limmer's Hotel, 2 George Street, Hanover Square. — Portland Hotel, 95-99 Great Portland Street, Portland Place. In or near Kensington : — Queen's Gate Hotel, 98 Queen's Gate, near Hyde Park. — South Kensington Hotel, Queen's Gate Terrace. — Cadog an Hotel, 75 Sloane Street, Cadogan Place, near Hyde Park. — Bailey's Hotel. Gloucester Road Station, S.W. — Norris's Hotel, 48-53 Russell Road, Kensington , facing Addison Road Station. — Royal Palace Hotel, High St., Kensington, new. All these West End hotels are good in ev#ry respect, but their terms are high: Bedroom 3s. 6d.-10s. , Breakfast 3-4s., Dinner 5-1 Os., Attendance 1.?, Qd. — Charges for the best rooms are equally high at the terminus hotels, but the attendance is inferior. Hotels in the City : — De Keyser's Royal Hotel, Victoria Embankment, Blackfriars, conducted in the continental fashion , is well situated ; R, and A. 8 3. HOTELS. 5s. and upwards, B. 2-3s., table d'hote (at 6 p.m.) 4s., 'pension' 12-20s. Foreign newspapers provided. — Castle and Falcon, 5 Aldersgate Street, near St. Martin's le Grand (General Post Office J, R. & A. 3s. 6d., B. 2s., D. 38. 6d. — Manchester Hotel, 136-145 Aldersgate Street and Long Lane. — The Albion, 172 Aldersgate Street. — City of London, 11 Bishopsgate Street Within. — Metro- politan Hotel, South Place , Moorgate St. , near the Great Eastern Railway Station. — Seyd's Hotel, 39 Finsbury Square, R. &B. 4-5s. — Biickers Hotel, Christopher Street, Finsbury Square. In SouTHWARE and Lambeth, on the right bank of the Thames : — Bridge House Hotel , 4 Borough High Street , London Bridge. — Piggoti's Hotel, 166 Westminster Bridge Road. In or near Flbbt Strbbt : — Anderton's Hotel, 162 Fleet Street; Peelers Hotel, ill Fleet Street; Salisbury Hotel, Salisbury Square, Fleet Street. In or near Leicester Square, at the West End, a quarter much frequented by French visitors : — Hotel de Paris et de VEurope, Nos. 7 & 9 Leicester Square. — Monte Carlo Hotel , 2 Leicester Street, Leicester Square. — Challis's Royal Hotel, 59-64 Rupert Street, Coventry Street. — Weddes Hotel, 12 Greek Street, Soho Square. The stranger is cautioned against going to any unrecommended house near Leicester Square, as there are several houses of doubtful reputation in this locality. Near Covent Garden : — Hummums, and Tavistock Hotel (R., B., & A. 78. 6d.), both in the Piazza, Covent Garden, for gentlemen only. — Bedford Hotel , also in the Piazza , Covent Garden, com- fortable. — Covent Garden Hotel, corner of Covent Garden and South- ampton Street. — Mona Hotel, 13 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden. In the Strand, a favourite neighbourhood for visitors : — Somerset Hotel (No. 162) ; HaxelVs Hotel (Nos. 369-375), ad- joining Exeter Hall. — Oolden Cross Hotel , 452 Strand, opposite the Charing Cross Hotel (p. 6). The streets leading from the Strand to the Thames contain a number of quiet family hotels, which afford comfortable acccom- modation at a moderate cost. Among these are the following : — Craven Hotel, 43-46 Craven Street (R. from 2s. 6d., board 10s. 6d.) ; Adelphi Hotel, 1-4 John Street, Adelphi; Caledonian Hotel, 10 Adelphi Terrace , with a good view of the Thames. — In Surrey Street : Lay's Hotel (Nos. 5, 6, 8, and 9) ; Royal Surrey Hotel (Nos. 14-18); Norfolk (^0. 30); Bunyard's Private Hotel (No. 31). — In Norfolk Street : Slaughters Private Hotel (Nos. 16) ; Bunyard's Private Hotel (No. 10); Kent's (No. 32); Bond's (No. 30; private). — In Arundel Street : Arundel Hotel (No. 19 ; R., B., & A. from 6s. , 'pension' from 8s. 6d.) , pleasantly situated on the Embank- ment; Temple Hotel (No. 28; frequented by Swedes and Germans). Near Trafalgar Square : — Morley's Hotel, Trafalgar Square, pleasantly situated, and much frequented by Americans. — The 3. HOTELS. 9 Grand Hotel, tlie Hotel Metropole, and the Hotel Victoria have been already mentioned at p. 6. — Previtalis Hotel, 13-19 Arundell Street, Haymarket. In Tottenham Court Road : The Horseshoe (No. 264) and the Bedford Head (No. 235 ; moderate), two commercial houses, suited for gentlemen. In Bloomsbuby, near the British Museum : Burros Private Hotel, 10 Queen Square (R. 2s. 6d. , 'pension' in winter 6-7s., in summer 8s.) ; Bedford, 93 Southampton Row. On the N. side of Holborn, near the Farringdon Street Me- tropolitan Station, and a few hundred paces from St. Paul's : — Ridler's (No. 133), Wood's, in Furnival's Inn (very quiet; good wine). First Avenue Hotel, see p. 7. — On the Holborn Viaduct, the imperial Hotel, and the Holborn Viaduct Hotel. — A little to the N. of this point, quietly situated in Charterhouse Square, are Cocker's Hotel (No. 19) and Brunswick Private Hotel (No. 14). The following is a small selection of the best-known Temper- ance Hotels in London : — West Central Hotel, 97-105 Southampton Row, Russell Square (R. from Is. 6d. , 'pension' 6s. 8ci.) ; Devonshire, 12 Bishopsgate Without; Armfield' s South Place Hotel, South Place, Finsbury (R. & A. from 2s. 9d.); Lmy's, South Street, Finsbury; Waverley,S7 King St., Cheapside, E.G.; Wild's, 30-40 Ludgate Hill ; Tranters, 7 Bridgewater Square, Barbican, E. C. (R. from Is. 6d., R. & board 5s. 6d.). Boarding Houses. The visitor will generally find it more economical to live in a Boarding House than at a hotel. For a sum of 30-40s. per week or upwards he will receive lodging, breakfast, luncheon, dinner, and tea, taking his meals and sharing the sitting- rooms with the other guests. This arrangement , however , is more suitable for persons making a prolonged sojourn in London than for those who merely intend to devote two or three weeks to seeing the lions of the English metropolis. To a visitor of the latter class the long distances between the different sights of London make it expe- dient that he should not have to return for dinner to a particular part of the town at a fixed hour. This independence of action is secured, more cheaply than at a hotel, by taking — Private Apartments, which may be hired by the week in any part of London. Notices of 'Apartments', or ' Furnished Apartments\ are generally placed in the windows of houses where there are rooms to be let in this manner, but it is safer to apply to the nearest house-agent. Rooms in the house of a respectable private family may often be obtained by advertisement or otherwise, and are gener- rally much more comfortable than the professed lodging-houses. The dearest apartments, as well as the dearest hotels , are at the West End, where the charges vary from 2l. to ibl. a week. The best are in the streets leading from Piccadilly — Dover Street , Half 10 3. PRIVATE APARTMENTS. Moon Street, Clarges Street, Duke Street, and Sackville Street, — and in those leading out of St. James's Street, such as Jermyn Street, Bury Street, and King Street. Good, hut less expensive lodgings may also he ohtained in the less central parts of the West End, and in the streets diverging from Oxford Street and the Strand. In Bloomshury (near the British Museum) the average charge for one room is 15-21s. per week, and breakfast is provided for Is. a day. Fire and light are usually extras, sometimes also boot-cleaning and washing of bed-linen. It is advisable to have a clear under- standing on all these points. Still cheaper apartments, varying in rent according to the amenity of their situation and their distance from the centres of business and pleasure, may be obtained in the suburbs. The traveller who desires to be very moderate in his ex- penditure may even procure a bedroom and the use of a breakfast- parlour for 10s, a week. The preparation of plain meals is generally understood to be included in the charge for lodgings, but the sight- seer will probably require nothing but breakfast and tea in his rooms, taking luncheon and dinner at one of the pastrycooks' shops, oyster-rooms, or restaurants with which London abounds. Though attendance is generally included in the weekly charge for board and lodging, the servants expect a small weekly gra- tuity, proportionate to the trouble given them. Money and valuables should be securely locked up in the visitor's own trunk, as the drawers and presses of hotels and boarding-houses are frequently by no means inviolable receptacles. Large sums of money and objects of great value, however, had better be entrusted to the keeping of the landlord of the house, if a person of known respectability, or to a banker in exchange for a receipt. It is hardly necessary to point out that it would be unwise to make such a deposit with the landlord of pri- vate apartments or boarding-houses, which have not been specially recom- mended. 4. Restaurants. Dining Booms. Oyster Shops. Confectioners. English cookery, which is as inordinately praised by some epi- cures and bans vivants as it is abused by others, has at least the merit of simplicity, so that the quality of the food one is eating is not so apt to be disguised as it is on the Continent. Meat and fish of every kind are generally excellent in quality at all the better restaurants, but the visitor accustomed to continental fare may discern a falling off in the soups, vegetables, and sweet dishes. At the first-class restaurants the cuisine is generally French ; the charges are high, but everything is sure to be good of its kind. At the smaller restaurants it is usual to find out from the waiter what dishes are to be had, and to order accordingly. The dinner hour at the best restaurants is 4-8 p. m., after which some of them are closed. At less pretentious establishments dinner 'from the joinf is obtainable from 12 or 1 to 5 or 6 p.m. Beer, on draught or in bottle, is supplied at almost all the restaurants, and is the beverage 4. RESTAURANTS. 11 most frequently drunk. The Grill Rooms are devoted to chops, steaks, and other dishes cooked on a gridiron. Dinner from the Joint is a plain meal of meat, potatoes, vegetaliles, and cheese. At many of the following restaurants, particularly those in the City, there are luncheon-1»ars, where from 11 to 3 a chop or small plate of hot meat with bread and vegetables may be obtained for 6-8d. Customers usually take these 'snacks' standing at the bar. In dining it la carte at any of the foreign restaurants one portion will often be found sufficient for two persons. Good wine in England is expensive. Claret (Bordeaux) is most frequent- ly drunk, but Port, Sherry, and Eock (a corruption of Hochheimer, used as a generic term for Rhenish wines) may also be obtained at most of the restaurants. Seme of the Italian restaurants have good Italian wines. The traveller's thirst can at all times be conveniently quenched at a Public Mouse, where a glass of bitter beer, ale, stout, or 'half-and-half (i. e. ale or beer, and stout or porter, mixed) is to be had for V/2-2d. (6d. or ?:d. per quart). Good German Lager Bier (3-Qd. per glass) is now very generally obtainable at the larger restaurants, in some of which it has almost entirely supplanted the heavier English ales. Wine (not recom- mended) may also be obtained. Genuine Munich Beer from the cask may be obtained at the Gamlrimis Restaurants, 3 Glasshouse Street, Piccadilly Circus, and 13 Basinghall Street, City; also German sausages, smoked eel, and similar 'whets'. English-made Lager-beer is supplied in an establish- ment in the basement of the Cafe Monico, Piccadilly Circus, fitted up in the 'old German' style, and in the Tottenham Lager Beer Hall, 395 Strand. Many of the more important streets also contain Wi?ie-stores or '■Bodegas", where a good glass of wine may be obtained for 2~Qd.^ a pint of Hock or Claret for 8d.-is. Gd., and so on, and a few taverns (such as Short''s, 333 Strand) have acquired a special reputation for their wines. Bestaurants at the West End. In and near the Strand : — Adelphi Restaurant (Gatti)^ at the Adelphi Theatre, 410 Strand. *Simpson's Dining Rooms, in the busiest part of the Strand (Nos. 101-103); ladies' room upstairs; dinner d. la carte. Imperial Cafe-Restaurant (Gatti ^ Rodesano'), 166 Strand. * Gaiety Restaurant (Spiers 8f Pond), at the Gaiety Theatre, 343 and 344 Strand; table d'hote from 5.30 till 8p.m., 3s. Qd. Tivoli Grand Restaurant, 65 Strand, adjoining the Tivoli Music Hall (German beer). The Courts Restaurant, 222 Strand, opposite the Law Courts. Romano's Cafe- Restaurant, 399 Strand (French). * Gatti' s Restaurant and Cafe, 436 Strand, with another entrance in Adelaide Street, and a third in King William Street. * Grand Hotel, Charing Cross (see p. 6) ; table d'hote at 6 p.m. 5s. ; also buffet and grill-room. — Ship Restaurant, 45 Charing Cross. Old Drury Tavern, 50 Catherine Street, near Drury Lane Theatre (p. 40). The Albion, 26 Russell Street, opposite Drury Lane Theatre, fre- quented by actors and authors (not by ladies) ; dinner from the joint. In and near Leicestee SauABE : — Hotel de Paris, 7 & 9 Leicester Square. The Cavour, 20 Leicester Square, hotel and cafe, French cuisine and attendance ; table d'hote from 6 to 9, 3s. 12 4. RESTAURANTS. *Kettners Restaurant du Pavilion^ French house, 28-31 Church Street, Soho (somewhat expensive). Wedde, 12 Greek Street, Soho; Hotel d'ltalie, 52 Old Compton St., Soho, Italian houses [table d'hote 2s. 6d.). Hotel de Solferino, 7 & 8 Rupert Street ; Hotel de Florence, bl Rupert Street, Italian house (table d'hote 3«., lunch Is. 6d.). There are many cheap and good foreign restaurants in Soho. Near Pall Mall : — Epitaux, 9 Haymarket. — Willis''s, King Street, St. James's. In Piccadilly, Regent Street, and the vicinity : — The Criterion (Spiers and Pond), Regent Circus, Piccadilly, spa- cious, sumptuously fitted up, and adorned with tasteful decorative paintings by eminent artists; theatre, see p. 41. — Table d'hote from 5. 30 to 8 p.m. 38. 6d., attendance 3rf., accompanied by glees and songs performed by a choir of men and boys ; dinner from the joint 2s. Qd. Grill-room, caf^ and American bar, etc. Piccadilly Restaurant, in the building of the Pavilion Music Hall. *Monico^s, 19 Shaftesbury Avenue, handsomely fitted up, with re- staurant, grill-room, cafe, luncheon bar, and concert room (seep. 4")). Hotel Previtali, 14-18 Arundell Street (p. 9j, with table d'hote. Berkeley Hotel, 77 Piccadilly. *Bellamy's Dining Rooms , 2 Piccadilly Place , Piccadilly, op- posite St. James's Church, moderate. *The Burlington (Blanchard's), 169 Regent Street, corner of New Burlington Street ; dinners on first and second floors, ground- floor reserved for luncheons. Ladies' rooms. Dinners at 5s., 7s. 6d., and 10s. 6d. ; also h la carte. Formaggia, 109 Regent Street. *St. James's Hall Restaurant, 69-71 Regent Street, and 25, 26, and 28 Piccadilly. Ladies' rooms and grill-room. Concert dinner, with lady orchestra, 4s. 6d. *Kuhn, 21 Hanover Street, cafe downstairs, restaurant upstairs, expensive. *Verrey, 229 Regent Street, French cuisine, somewhat high charges (bouillabaisse to order). * Grand Cafe Royal, 68 Regent Street; French dinner 5s. The table d'hote at the Hotel Continental , 1 Regent Street , is good but high-piiced (7s. 6d.); dejeuner from 12 to 3 p.m. 4s. *Blanchard's Restaurant, 1-7 Beak Street, Regent Street (ladies not after 5p.m.^; dinner 3s. 6d. ; d, la carte, dearer. Good wines. Waymont's Parisian Restaurant, 188 Regent Street. In and near Oxfokd Street and Holborn : — *The Pamphilon, 17 Argyll Street, Oxford Street, near Regent Circus, with ladies' rooms; unpretending, moderate charges. Pagani, 48 Great Portland Street. Circus Restaurant, 213 New Oxford Street, near Regent Circus ; 4. RESTAURANTS. 13 Star and Garter (Pecorini) ^ 98 New Oxford Street. — Buszard (pastry-cook), 197 Oxford Street (recommended for ladies). *Frascati, 32 Oxford Street, a large and handsome establishment with winter garden, cafe', and numerous billiard-tables. Dorothy Restaurant (for ladies only), 448 Oxford Street. The Radnor, 73 Chancery Lane and 311-312 High Holborn. The Horseshoe , 264-267 Tottenham Court Road , not far from the British Museum, luncheon-bar, grill-room, and dining-rooms; table d'hote 5.30 to 8.30 p.m., 2^. 6d. Inns of Court Restaurant, in Lincoln's Inn Fields, N. side. *The Holborn Restaurant, 218 High Holborn, an extensive and elaborately adorned establishment, with grill-room, luncheon buffets, etc. ; table d'hote at separate tables in the Grand Salon from 5.30 to 9 p.m., with music, 3s. 6d. *Grays Inn Tavern, 19 High Holborn, near Chancery Lane. Spiers and Pond's Buffet, Holborn Viaduct Station. Table d'hote at the First Avenue Hotel (p. 7) from 5.30 to 8.30 p.m., 58; also restaurant, grill-room, and luncheon-buffet. *Veglio, 314 Euston Road, near the end of Tottenham Court Road (moderate). In the City. In Flebt Street : — The Cock, 22 Fleet Street (chops, steaks, kidneys; good stout); with the fittings of the famous Old Cock Tavern, pulled down in 1886. *The Rainbow, 15 Fleet Street (good wines) ; dinner from the joint, chops, steaks, etc. Old Cheshire Cheese, 16 Wine Office Court, Fleet Street (steak and chop house ; beefsteak puddings on Saturdays). Here is pre- served Dr. Johnson's chair. Near St. Paul's : — Spiers and Pond's Restaurant , Ludgate Hill Station. Salutation Tavern, 17 Newgate Street (fish). Grand Restaurant de Paris, 74 Ludgate Hill, table d'hote from 5 to 9, with 1/2 bottle of claret, 3s. 6d. Near the Bank : — The Palmerston, 34 Old Broad Street. — * Auction-Mart (Spiers 6 Pond), Tokenhouse Yard, Lothbury. — Charley s Fish Shop (snacks of fish), 20 Coleman St. In Cheapside : — Lake and Turner (No. 49) and Read's (No. 94), good houses, with moderate charges ; Cyprus Restaurant (Nos. 1 and 2), a temperance house; Queen Anne (No. 27); Sweeting's (No. 158; fish). In Gresham Street : — New Gresham Dining-Rooms (No. 58) ; The Castle (No. 40) ; Guildhall Tavern (Nos. 81-83). City Restaurant, 34 Milk Street (table d'hote 12-3, Is. 3f/.). 14 4. RESTAURANTS. In the Poultry : — *Pimrns (Nos. 3, 4, 5). InBucklersbury, near tlie Mansion House : ^ReicherVs [Bargtn^s; No. 4); Ye Gresham (No. 21"), moderate. Spiers and Pond's Buffet. Mansion House (Metropolitan) Station. The Bay Tree, 33 St. Swithin's Lane. — WindmiU, 151 Cannon Street. In Gracechurcli Street : The Grasshopper (No. 13) ; Half Moon (No. 88); Woolpack (No. 4, and 6 St. Peter's Alley). *London Tavern, formerly King's Head, 53 Fenchurch Street. Queen Elizabeth here took her first meal after her liberation from the Tower. *Crosby Hall (p. 107), Bishopsgate Street (waitresses). These last two are very handsomely fitted up and contain smoking and chess rooms. Ye Olde Four Swans, 82 Bishopsgate Street Within. Three Nuns, adjoining Aldgate Metropolitan Station. Ship and Turtle, 129Leadenhall Street, noted for its turtle; The Tip Tree, Leadenhall St. Bargen, 38 and 48 Coleman Street. Herrmann ^- Birkenfeld, 41 and 42 London Wall. In or near Cornhill : — Birch's (Ring ^' Brymer), 15 Cornhill, the principal purveyors to civic feasts; Baker's, 1 Change Alley, Cornhill, Thomas's, and Simpsons' s, both in Maidenhead Court, Aldersgate Street, are three well-known Chop-houses in the City. White Hart Inn, 63 Borough High Street, Southwark, described by Dickens in 'Pickwick'. Waiters in restaurants expect a gratuity of about Id. for every shilling of the bill, but Qd. per person is the most that need ever be given. If a charge is made in the bill for attendance the visitor is not bound to give anything additional , though even in this case it is customary to give the waiter a trifle for himself. Among the chief Vegetarian Restaurants in London are the Orange Grove^ St. Martin's Lane, W.C. ; Wheatsheaf, 13 Rathbone Place , Oxford Street ; Queen Victoria, 303 Strand ; Bouverie, 63 Fleet Street; Forster ^ Hazell, 8 Queen St., Cheapside ; Apple- Tree, Cheapside. Oyster Shops. *Scott (Edwin), 18 Coventry Street, exactly opposite the Hay- market (also steaks); Blue Posts, 14 Rupert Street (American special- ties, clams, etc.; also grill); these two in the evening for gentlemen only; *Rule, 35 Maiden Lane, Covent Garden; Smith, 357 Strand; Pimm, 3 Poultry, City; Lynn, 70 Fleet Street, City; *Lightfoot, 3 Ar- thur Street East, 22 Lime Street, 39 Old Change, all three in the City. The charge for a dozen oysters is usually from 2s. to 4*. Qd., accord- ing to the season and the rank of the house. Small lobster is. 6d. ; larger lobster 2s. (id. and upwards. Snacks of fish 2-6d. Oysters, like pork, are out of season in the month that have no B. in their name, ». e. those of summer. 5. CAF^S. 15 Confectioners. Petrzywalski , 62 Regent Street, good Vienna pastry and ices ; Charbonnel ^ Walker^ 173 New Bond Street; Bonthron, 106 Regent Street; Duclos, 178, Blatchley, 167, Buszard, 197 , all in Oxford Street ; Fuller, 206 Regent Street, 368 Strand, and 131 Queen's Road, Bayswater (American confectionery) ; Beadell, 8 Vere Street ; Gun- ter ^ Co., 7 Berkeley Square, good ices; Wolff, 7 Newgate Street. 5. Cafes. Billiard Rooms. Chess. At the West End. Simpson s Cigar Divan, 101-103 Strand, second floor, cafe for gentlemen, containing a large selection of English and foreign newspapers (see p. 16), and a favourite resort of lovers of chess (admission 6d., or, including cigar and cup of coffee, Is.). Qatti's Cafe, 436 Strand, good ices (also a restaurant, p. 11); Carlo Gatti, Villiers Street, Strand ; Grand Cafe Royal, 68 Regent Street (restaurant, p. 12); *KUhn, 21 Hanover Street , Regent Street (re- staurant, p. 12); Verrey, corner of Regent Street and Hanover Street , noted for ices (restaurant, p. 12) ; R. Gunter, 23 Motcomb Street and 15 Lowndes Street, Belgrave Square ; Gentlemen's Cafe, Criterion (p. 12); Monico, 19 Shaftesbury Ave-nue (p. 12); Fras- cati, 32 Oxford St. (restaurant, p. 13); *Vienna Cafe, corner of Oxford Street and Hart Street, near the British Museum. In the City. Peele's , ill Fleet Street ; Brown, 16 Ludgate Hill ; Cafe de Paris, Ludgate Hill; Holt, 63 St. Paul's Churchyard; Stephen, 51 Cheapside. The shops of Ye Mecca Company, in the City, are much frequented in the afternoon for coffee. The People's Cafe Company , the Coffee Palace Company, Lock- hart's Cocoa Rooms, and others of a similar kind, have established a large number of cheap cafes in all parts of London. Many of these contain first-class rooms (at increased charges) and rooms for ladies. The shops of the Aerated Bread Company and the Golden Grain Company are also much frequented for tea, coffee, etc. Billiard Rooms. ^Horseshoe', 264-267 Tottenham Court Road ; Frascati, see above; jBo6er the streets of the metropolis. If a policeman is not readily found, appli- cation may be made to a postal letter carrier, to a commissi onnaire, or at a neighbouring shop. A considerable degree of caution and presence of mind is often requisite in crossing a crowded thoroughfare, and in entering or alighting from a train or omnibus. The 'rule of the road' for foot-passengers in busy streets is to keep to the right. Poor neigh- bourhoods should be avoided after nightfall. Strangers are also warned against Mock Auctions, a specious trap for the unwary, and indeed should neither buy nor sell at any auction in London without the aid of an ex- perienced friend or a trustworthy broker. Addresses of all kinds may be found in Kelly's Post Office Directory, a thick volume of 3000 pages, or in Morris's Director}/, a less extensive work, one or other of which maybe seen at all the hotels and cafes and at most of the principal shops. The addresses of residents at the West End and other suburbs may also be obtained from Boyle's Court Guide, Webster s Royal Red Book, the Royal Blue Book, or Kelhj s Suburban Di- rectory, and those of city men and firms in Colling i-idge's C,(y Directory. A useful adjunct to most houses in the central parts of London is a Cab 'Whistle, one blast upon which summons a four-wheeler, two a hansom. Among the characteristic sights of London is the Lord Mayor's Show (9th Nov.), or the procession in which — maintaining an ancient and picturesque, though useless custom — the newly-elected Lord Mayor moves, amid great pomp and ceremony, through the streets from the City to the new Courts of Justice, in order to take the oath of office. It is followed by the great dinner in the Guildhall (p. 101). 22. Guilds, Charities, Societies, Clubs. Gruilds. Tlie City Companies or Guilds of Loudon were once upwards of one hundred in number, about eighty of winch still exist , though few exercise their ancient privileges. About forty 72 02. GUILDS, CHARITIES. of them possess lialls in wliich they transact ^business and hold festivities; the others meet either in rooms lent to them at Guild- hall, or at the offices of the respective clerks. All the companies except five are called Livery Companies, and the members are en- titled, on ceremonial occasions, to v?ear the liveries (gowns, furs, etc.) of their respective guilds. Many of the companies possess vast estates and revenues, while others possess neither halls nor almshouses, neither estates nor revenues, — nothing but ancient charters to which they reverentially cling. Some of the guildhouses are among the most interesting buildings in London, and are no- ticed tliTOUghout the Handbook. The Twelve Great Companies, wealthier and more influential than the rest, are the Mercers, Grocers, Drapers, Fishmongers. Goldsmiths, Skinners, Merchant Taylors, Haberdashers, Salters, Ironmongers, Vintners, and Cloth- workers. Some of the companies represent trades now quite ex- tinct, and by their unfamiliar names strikingly illustrate the fact how completely they have outlived their original purpose. Such are the Bowyers, Broderers, Girdlers, Homers, Loriners (saddler's ironmongers). Patten Makers, and Scriveners. Charities. The charities of London are on a scale commensurate with the vastness of tlie city, being no fewer than 2000 in number. They comprise hospitals, dispensaries, asylums ; bible, tract, mis- sionary, and district visiting societies; provident homes, orphanages, etc. A tolerably complete catalogue will be found in Fry's Guide to the London Charities (Is. Gc/.), Howe's Classified Directory of Metro- politan Charities (Is.'), or Low's Handbook to the Charities of London (Is.). The total voluntary subscriptions, donations , and bequests to these charities amount to about 5,000,000i. annually, or more tlian 1^. for each man, woman, and child in tlie capital. The institu- tion of 'Hospital Sunday', on which collections are made in all the churches for the hospitals , produces a yearly revenue of about 40,000i. Non-churchgoers have a similar opportunity afforded them on 'Hospital Saturday', when about 750 ladies station themselves at street- corners to receive contributions; this produces about 7000Z., while collections made at the same time in workshops add 13,000L or more. The following is a brief list of tlie chief general hospitals, besides which there are numerous special hospitals for cancer, small- pox, fever, consumption, eye and ear diseases, and so forth. Charing Cross, Agar Street, Strand. — French Hospital, 172 Shaftesliury Avenue. — German, Dalston Lane, Dalston. — Great Northern., Caledoniau Road.— Guy^s, St. Thomas Street, Southwark. — Italian^ Queen Square. — King's College, Carey Street, Strand. — Xo?jdo», Whitechapel Road. — London Homeopathic, Great Ormond Street. — Metropolitan., Kingsland Road, E. — Middlesex, Mortimer Street, Berners Street. — North- West London, Kentisb Town Road. — University College, or North London., Gower Street. — Royal Free, Gray'a Inn Road. — St. Bartholowtw's, Smithfield. — *S'<. George's., Hyde Park Corner. — St. Mary's, Cambridge Place, Paddington. — St. Thomas's, Albert Embankment. — Temper a7ice ., Hampslead Road. — West London, Hammersmith Road. — Westminster, Broad Siinctuary. The following are Hospitals for Ladiks, in which patients are receiv- 22. SOCIETIES. 73 ed for a moderate charge: — EstahUshment for Gentlewomen^ 90 Harley Street (U.-ll. 5s. Qd. per week) ; New Hospital for Women, 14i Euston Ruad, with lady-doctors^ Chelsea Hospital for Women, Fulham Road. Societies. The societies for the encouragement of industry, art, and science in London are extremely numerous, and many of them possess most ample endowments. The names of a few of the most important may be given here , some of them being described at length in other parts of the Handbook: — Royal Society, Royal Academy, Society of Antiquaries, Geolo- gical Society, Royal Astronomical Society, Linnaean Society, Chem- ical Society, all in Burlington House, Piccadilly. — Royal Archaeo- logical Institute, 17 Oxford Mansions, Oxford Street. — Royal Aca- demy of Music, 4 Tenterden Street, Hanover Square. — Royal Col- lege of Music, near the Albert Hall. — • Royal College of Physicians, Pall Mall East. — Royal College of Surgeons, 40 Lincoln's Inn Fields, — Royal Geographical Society, 1 Savile Row, Burlington Gardens. — Royal Asiatic Society, 22 Albemarle Street, Piccadilly. — Royal Society of Literature , 20 Hanover Square, W. — Royal College of Science, 282 Exhibition Road, South Keusingston. — Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce, generally known as the Society of Arts, John Street, Adelphi, Strand. — Trinity College (music and arts), 13 Mandeville Place, Manchester Square. — Heralds' College, Queen Victoria Street. — Institution of Civil Engineers, 25 Great George Street, Westminster. — Royal Institute of British Architects, 9 Conduit Street, AV, — Sanitary Institute of Great Britain (Museum of Hygiene), 74a Mar- garet Street, Cavendish Square. — School of Electrical Engineer- ing and Submarine Telegraphy, 12 Prince's Street, Hanover Square. — Royal Institution, 21 Albemarle Street, Piccadilly. Popular lectures on science, art, and literature are delivered here on Friday evenings during the Season (adm. by a members order). Six lec- tures for children, illustrated by experiments, are given after Christ- mas, — Guilds Central Technical College, Exhibition Road, South Kensington, for the advancement of technical education. The Clubs are chiefly devoted to social purposes. Most of the club-houses at the West End, particularly those in or near Pall Mall, are very handsome, and admirably fitted up, affording every possible comfort. To a bachelor in particular his 'club'is a most serviceable in- stitution. Members are admitted by ballot, but candidates are reject- ed by a certain small proportion of 'black balls' or dissentient votes. The entrance fee varies from 5^. 5s. to AOl., and the annual subscrip- tion is from 3l. Ss. to ibl. 15s. The introduction of guests by a mem- ber is allowed in some, but not in all of the clubs. The cuisine is usu- ally admirable. The wine and viands, which are sold at little more than cost price, often attain a pitch of excellence unequalled by the most elaborate and expensive restaurants. We append a roughl y classified list of the most important clubs : — Political. — CoKSEKVATivE : Brooks''^, 60 St. James's Street; Carlton, d^ 74 22. CLUBS. Pall Mall, the premier Conservative Club (1800 members) ; dtp Carlton^ 24 St. Swithin'8 Lane; (Jonserwaim CTm&, 74 St. James's Street (1200 members.)-, Constitutional^ Nortbumberland Avenue (6500 members); Junior Carlton., 80-35 Pall Mall (210U members); Junior Conservative, 43 Albemarle Street (4500 members); Junior Constitutional, 102 Piccadilly (4G00 members); Prim- roue, 4 Park Place, St. James's (6000 members); St. Stephen's, 1 Bridge Street, Westminster. — Liberal: Citt/ Liberal Gliih, Walbrook; Devonshire 50 St. James's Street (1500 members); National Liberal, Wbiteball Place (7000 members); Reform, 104 Pall IMall, the premier Liberal Club (140) members). — The Si. Jameses Club, 106 Piccadilly, is for the diplomatic service (650 members). Military and Naval and University Clubs. — Army and Navy Club, 36 Pall Mall (2400 members); Cavalry, 127 Piccadilly; East India United Ser- vice. 16 St. James's Square (2500 members); Guards^ Club, 70 Pall Mall; Isthmian, 150 Piccadilly; Junior Army and Navi/ , 10 St. James's Street; Junior United Service, 11 Charles Street (2O0O members); Naval and Military, 9i Piccadilly (2000 members); New Oxford and Cambridge, 68 Pall Mall; New University, 57 St. James's Slreet; Oxford and Cambridge, 71-76 Pall Mall; United Service, 116 Pall Mall; 1600 members (members must not hold lower rank than major in the army or commander in the navy); United University, 1 Suffolk Street. Literary, Dramatic, Artistic Clubs, etc. — Arts Club, 17 HanoverSquare. — Athenaeum Club, 107 Pall Mall, the club of the literati; 1200 members. (Dis- tinguished strangers visiting London may be elected honorary members of the Atlienfeum during their temporary residence in London.) — Authors'", 3 Whitehall Court, S.W.; Beaufort, 32 Dover St., W. ; Burlington Fine Arts Club, 17 Savile R'jw; Crichton, 10 Adelplii Terrace (proprietary); Qarrick Club, 13 and 15 Garrick Street, Covent Garden, lor literary men and actors (650 member^); 07'een Room, 20 Bedford Street, Covent Garden; Hogarth, •36 Dover St. ; Press Club, 107 Fleet Street; Savage Club, 6 Adelphi Terrace. Sporting Clubs. — Alpine Club, 8 St. Martin's Place, Trafalgar Square; Badminton, 98 Piccadilly (1000 members; sporting and coaching); Turf Club, 47 Clarges Street, Piccadilly; Victoria, IS Wellington Street, Strand. — Hur- lingham Club, sec p. 337. — Comp. pp. 46-40. Social and General Clubs. — Albemarle, 13 Albemarle Street, for ladies and gentlemen (750 members) ; Arthur''s, 69 St. James's Street ; Bachelors', 8 Hamilton Place; Boodle's, 28 St. James's Street (chiefly for country gen- tletnen); Cigar Club, 6a Waterloo Place (1000 members); City of London, 19 Old Broad Street, City; Cocoa Tree, 64 St. James's Street; German Athe- naeum. 93 Mortimer Street; Gresham, 1 Gresham Place, City; Grosvenor, l;-15 New Bond Street (3000 members); Jvnior Athenaeum, 116 Piccadilly; Junior Travellers, 1 Grafton Street; Marlborough, 52 Pall Mall; National, 1 Whitehall Gardens; New Travellers, 97 Piccadilly; Oriental Club, 18 Han- over Square; Orleans Club, 29 King Street, St. James's (see also p. 339); Raleigh Club, 16 Regent Street; St. George''s Club, 4 Hanover Square; Savile Club, 107 Piccadilly; Scottish Club, 39 Dover Street, Piccadilly; Thatched House Club, SQ St. James's Street; Traveller.'^, 106 Pall Mall (SdO members; cacii member must have travelled at least 500 miles from London); Union Club, Trafalgar Scjuare, corner of Cockspur Street-, Wellington, 1 Grosvenor Place; I^z7e's Chib, 38 St. James's Street; Whitehall Club, 47 Parliament Street; Windham Club, 13 St. James's Square. Ladies' Clubs. — Alexandra, 12 Grosven(ir Street (S50 members) ; New Somerville, 231 Oxford Street; Ladie.'i^ U7iiversity Club, 51 New Bond Street ; Ladies'" Victoria, 1(} Holies Street (a residential club); Pioneers", 22 Bruton St.; Writers", Norfolk Hou.':e, Norfolk Street, Strand. — The Albemarle (see above) and tlie Denison , 15 Buckingham Street, Strand (fur social discus- sions), are for ladies and gentlemen. Tlie Royal Colonial Institute, Northumberland Avenue, founded in 1868 for the purpose of 'providing a place of meeting for all -ientlemen con- nected with tlie Colonies and British India'; and the Imperial Institute (|i. 2-2) oiler many of the advantages of a good club. 75 23. Preliminary Ramble. Notliing is better calculated to afford tlie traveller some iiisiglit into the labyrintliiiie topography of London, to enable him to ascertain his hearings, and to dispel the first oppressive feeling of solitude and insignificance, than a drive through the principal quarters of the town. The outside of an omnibus affords a much better view than a cab (fares, see p. 28), and, moreover, has the advantage of cheap- ness. If the driver, beside whom the stranger should sit, happens to be obliging [and a small gratuity will generally make him so), he will afford much useful information about the buildings, monu- ments , and other sights on the route ; but care should be taken not to distract his attention in crowded parts. Even without such assistance, however, our plan of the city, if carefully consulted, will supply all necessary information. If ladies are of the party, an open Fly (see p. 28} is the most comfortable conveyance. Taking Hyde Park Corner, at the W. end of Piccadilly, as a con- venient starting-point, we mount one of the numerous omnibuses which ply to the Bank and London Bridge and traverse nearly the whole of the quarters lying on the N. bank of the Thames. Entering Piccadilly, we first pass, on the right, the Green Park, beyond which rises Buckingham Palace (p. 268). A little farther to the E., in the distance, we descry the towers of Westminster Abbey (p. 200) and the Houses of Parliament (p. 191). In Regent Street on the right, at some distance off, rises the York Column (p. 227). Passing Piccadilly Circus with the Shaftesbury Memorial (p. 232), we drive to the right through the Haymarket, near the end of which, on the left, is the theatre of that name (p.4:0). We now come to Trafalgar Square, with the Nelson Monument (p. 150) and the National Gallery (p. 152). On the right, in the direction of Whitehall, we observe the old statue of Charles I. Passing Charing Cross , with the large Charing Cross Hotel (p. 6) on the right, we enter the Strand, where the Adelphi, Lyceum, Gaiety, and other theatres lie on our left, and the Savoy, Terry's, and Strand theatres on our right (pp. 40, 41). On the left is Southampton Street, leading to Covent Garden (p. 186), and on the rightWellington Street, with Som- erset House (p. 146) near the corner, leading to Waterloo Bridge (p. 147). Near the middle of the Strand we reach the church of St. Mary le Strand (p. 145), and farther on is St. Clement Danes (p. 146). On the left we see the extensive new Law Courts (p. 144). Passing the site of Temple Bar (see p. 143), we now enter the City proper (p. 67). On the right of Fleet Street are several entrances to the Temple (p. 141), while on the left rises the church of St. Dunstan in the AVest (p. 138). At the end of Farringdon Street, diverging on the left, we notice the Holborn Viaduct Bridge (p. 94); on the right, In New Bridge Street, is the Ludgate Hill Station. We next drive up Ludgate Hill, pass St. Pauls Cathedral (p. 81) on 76 23. PRELIMINARY RAMBLE. the left, and turn to the left to Oheapside, noticing the monument of Sir Robert Peel (p. 91), a little to the N. of which is the General Post Office (p. 911. In Cheapside we observe Bow Church (p. 101) on the right, and near it the Guildhall (p. 101) at the end of King Street on the left. Quitting Cheapside, we enter the Poultry, in which the Mansion House (p. 104) rises on the right. Opposite the Mansion House is the Bank of England (p. 104), and before us is the Royal Exchange (p. 106), with Wellington's Statue in front. We then drive through King William Street, with the Statue of William IV., observing the Monument (p. 112) on the left We now quit the omnibus, and, after a walk across London Bridge (p. Ill) and back, pass through part of Gracechurch Street on the right, and follow Fenchurch Street to the station of the Lon- don and Blackwall Railway. A train on this line carries us to Blackwall, whence we ascend the Thames by one of the Greenwich Steamers^ passing London Docks (p. 129), St. Katherine's Docks (p. 129), the new Tower Bridge [p. 128), the Tower (p. 120), the Custom House (p. 113), and Billingsgate (p. 114), to London Bridge. Here we may disembark, and take an omnibus back to Hyde Park Corner, or, continuing in the same boat, may pass under the Can- non Street Station Railway Bridge , Southwark Bridge (with St. Paul's rising on the right), the Chatham and Dover Bridge, and Blackfriars Bridge. Between Blackfriars Bridge and Westminster runs the Victoria Embankment (p. 115). On the right are the Temple (p. 141) and Somerset House (p. 146). The steamer then passes under Waterloo Bridge [p. 147), beyond which, to the right, on the Embankment, stands Cleopatra's Needle [p. 116). We alight at Charing Cross Pier, adjacent to the Charing Cross Railway Bridge, and re-embark in a Chelsea Boat, which will convey us past Montague House (p. 191), New Scotland Yard (p. 191), Westminster Bridge, and the Houses of Parliament (p. 191), behind which is Westmin- ster Abbey (p. 200). On the left is the Albert Embankment, with St. Thomas's Hospital (p. 310) ; and, farther on, Lambeth Palace (p. 310) with the Lollards' Tower, and Lambeth Bridge. We then reach Vauxhall Bridge. From Vauxhall the traveller may walk or take a tramway car to Victoria Station , whence an omnibus will convey him to Oxford Street. In order to obtain a view of the quarters on the right (S.) bank of the Thames, or Surrey side, we take a light-green Atlas omnibus (not a City Atlas) in Regent Circus, Oxford Street (Plan R, 23), and drive through Regent Street, Regent's Quadrant, Piccadilly Circus , Regent Street (continued) , Waterloo Place (with the Crimean Monument and the York Column), Pall Mall East, and Charing Cross to (right) Whitehall. Here we observe, on the left,White- hall Banqueting Hall (p. 189), and on the right the Admiralty, the Horse Guards (p. 190), and the Government Offices. Our route next lies through Parliament Street, beyond which we pass Westminster 24. DISPOSITION OF TIME. 77 Abbey (p. 200") and the Houses of Parliament (p. 191) on the right. The omnibus then crosses Westminster Bridge, with the Victoria Em- bankment on the left, and the Albert Embankment and St. Thomas's Hospital on the right. Traversing Westminster Bridge Road, we observe, on the right, Christchurch and Hawkstone Hall. In Lambeth Road we perceive the Church of St. George's, the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Southwark, and, opposite to it, Bethlehem Hos- pital. On the W. side of St. George's Circus, with its obelisk, rises the Blind Asylum. A little to the S. of this point, we arrive at the Elephant and Castle (on the right), where we alight, to resume our journey on a blue Waterloo omnibus. This takes us through London Road to Waterloo Road, to the right of which are the Surrey Theatre (Blackfriars Road) , Magdalen Hospital , and the Victoria Music Hall (p. 43), and on the left the South Western Railway Station. We then cross Waterloo Bridge, drive along Wellington Street, pass- ing Somerset House, and turn to the left into the Strand, which leads us to Charing Cross. — Our first curiosity having thus been gratified by a general survey of London, we may now devote our attention to its collections, monuments, and buildings in detail. 24. Disposition of Time. The most indefatigable sight-seer will take at least three weeks to obtain even a superficial acquaintance with London and its objects of interest. A plan of operations, prepared beforehand, will aid him in regulating his movements and economising his time. Fine days should be spent in visiting the docks, parks, gardens, and environs. Excursions to the country around London, in particular, should not be postponed to the end of one's sojourn, as otherwise the setting in of bad weather may altogether preclude a visit to the many beautiful spots in the neighbourhood. Rainy days had better be de- voted to the galleries and museums. The following list shows the days and hours when the varions collec- tions and other sights are accessible. In winter (Oct. to April inclusive) the collections close at the earlier hours shown in the following table ; in summer at the later hours. The early forenoon and late after- noon hours may be appropriately spent in visiting the principal churches, many of which are open the whole day, or in walking in the parks or in the Zoological and the Botanical Gardens, while the evenings may be devoted to the theatres. The best time for a promenade in Eegent Street or Hyde Park is between 5 and 7 o'clock, when they both present a remarkably busy and attractive scene. When the traveller happens to be near London Bridge (or the Tower Bridge) he should take the opportunity of crossing it in order to obtain a view of the Port of London and its adjuncts, with its sea- going vessels arriving or departing, the innumerabla river craft of all sizes, and the vast traffic in the docks. Atrip to Graves- end (see p. 360) should by all means be taken in order to obtain a proper view of the shipping, no other port in the world presenting such a sight. The following data, though carefully revised down to 1894, are liable to frequent alteration. The traveller is, therefore, recommended to consult one of the principal London newspapers with regard to the sights of the day. Our list does not include parks, gardens, and other places which, on all week-days at least, are open to the public gratis. 78 24. DISPOSITION OF TIME. i 1 Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday Charterhouse (p. 98) 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 104, 5, 6 Chelsea Hospital (p. 304) . . . services 10-1, 2-7 10-1, 2-7 10-1, 2-7 *Crystal Palace (p. 317). . . . — 10 till dusk 10 till dusk 10 till dusk *Dulwich Gallery (p. 324). . . 2-5 10-4,5,6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 Flaxman Gallery (p. 235) . . . — — — 'Foundling Hospital (p. 239) . 11-1, 5-6 10-4 _ — Greenwich Hospital (p. 313). . 2-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 Guildhall, Picture Gallery (p. 103) 3-8 10-4, 5 10-4, 5 10-4, 5 — , Museum (p. 103) — 10-4. 5 10-4,5 10-4, 5 ■Hampton Court Palace (p. 328) 2-4,6 10-4, 6 10-4, 6 10-4, 6 Imperial Institute (p. 282) . . — 10.30-11 10.30-11 10.30-11 -Kew Gardens (p. 334) .... 1-6 12-6 12-6 12-6 Monument (p. 112) 8-6, 9-4 8-6, 9-4 8-6, 9-4 Museum, Bethnal Green (p. 131) — 10-10 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 ) 10-4, 5, 6 i 8-lOp.m. 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 — , **British (p. 242) — 8-10 8-10 — , Geological (p. 230) .... _ 10-10 10-5 10-5 — , ^Natural History (p. 283) . — 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 — , Parkes (p. 233) — 10-6 10-6 10-6 — , Soane (p. 185) - - 11-5 11-5 — , **South Kensington (p. 285) - 10-10 10-10 10-4, 5, 6 — , United Service (p. 189) . . 11-4, 5 11-4, 5 11-4, 5 **National Gallery (p. 15?) . . - 10-4, 5. 6, 7 10-4, 5, 6, 7 10-4, 5, 6, 7 **National Portrait Gallery (p. 132) — 10-10 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 ■^Parliament, Houses of (p. 191) — — — — Eoyal Academy, Summer Ex- hih. (p. 229) — 8-7 8-7 8-7 — , Winter Exhib. (p. 229) . . 9 till dusk 9 till dusk 9 till dusk — , Gibson and Diploma Gal. (p. 229) 11-4 11-4 11-4 Royal College of Surgeons (P- 183) — 11-5, 12-4 11-5, 12-4 11-5, 12-4 *'St. Paul's Cathedral (p. 81) services 9-5 9-5 9-5 Society of Arts (p. 148) .... — 10-4 10-4 — South London Fine Art Gal- lery (p. 309) 3-5, 7-9.30 3-5, 7-9.30 8-5, 7-9.30 3-5, 7-9.30 ■^Temple Church (p 141) . . . services 10-1, 2-4 10-1, 2-4 10-1, 2-4 'Tower (p. 120) - 10-4, 6 10-4 10-4 ♦♦Westminster Abbey (p. 200) services 9 till dusk 9 till dusk 9 till dusk ♦Zoological Gardens (p. 237) . (see p. 238) 9 till dusk 9 till dusk 9 till dusk 24. DISPOSITION OF TIME. 79 Thursday Friday Saturday Admission free except when other- wise stated. 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 6, 6 Great Hall closed 3-4. 10-1, 2-7 10-1, 2-7 10-1, 2-7 10 till dusk 10 till dusk 10 till dusk Adm. is. ; on Sat. sometimes 2«. Qd. 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 7 Open on Sun. in summer only. — — 10-4 May-Aug. inclusive. — — — Donation expected. 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5 10-4, 5 10-4, 5 Closed on alternate Sundays. 10-4, 5 10-4, 5 10-4, 5 10-4, 6 — 10-4, 6 10.30-11 12-10 10.30-11 Adm. Is. Free on Frid. 12-6 12-6 12-6 8-6, 9-4 8-6, 9-4 8-6, 9-4 Adm. Sd. HJ-lO 10-4, 5, 6 10-10 Adm. Qd. on Wed. ; other days free. 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 8-10 8-10 8-10 10-5 — 10-10 Closed from 10th Aug. to 10th Sept. 10-4, 5, 6 104, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-6 10-6 10-6 11-5 11-5 - From March to Aug. inclusive ; from Sept. to Feb. on application. 10-4, 5, 6 10-4, 5, 6 10-10 Adm. (id. on Wed., Thurs. , Frid.; other days free. 11-4, 5 — 11-5 On application. 11-4, 5, 6, 1 11-4, 5, 6, 7 10-4, 5, 6, 7 Adm. M. on Thurs. & Frid. ^ other days free. 10-10 10-4, 5, 6 10-10 Adm. Gd. on Wed. : other days free. — — 10-8.30 Tickets gratis. 8-7 8-7 8-7 From 1st Mon. in May to Ist Mon. in Aug. Adm. Is. 9 till dusk 9 till dusk 9 till dusk From 1st Mon. in Jan. to 1st Mon. in Mar. Adm. Is. 11-4 11-4 11-4 12-4, 5 _ By special permission. 9-5 9-5 9-5 10-4 10-4 10-4 3-5, 7-9.30 3-5, 7-9.30 3-5, 7-9.30 10-1, 2-4 10-1, 2-4 — 10-4 10-4 10-4, 6 Adm. free (Armoury and Crown Jew- els 6d. each, except on Mon. &Sat.). 9 till dusk 9 till dusk 9 till dusk Adm. to chapels 6d. ; free on Mon. & Tues. 9 till dusk till dusk 9 till dusk Adm. Is.-, on Mon. Qd, 80 25. Books relating to London. The following are some of the best, and latest works on Loudon and its neighbourhood, to which the visitor desirous of further in- formation than can be obtained in a guide-book may be referred. .la., illus.; CAh ed., 189i. 2 J. Loftie; 1886. illustr;.ted; 1876. Fellow of the Society of Anii- Walks in London, by Aug. J. C. Hare; London (Historic Towns Series), by W. In and out of London, by W. J. Loftie; Hound about London (12 miles), by a uaries; 4tb ed.,^^1887. A History of London, by W. J. Loftie; 2 vols., illustrated; 2nd ed., 1884, witb appendix. London, by Walter Besant (1S93). Northern Heights of London, by Wm. Hovntt; illustrated; 1869. Thorne''s Handbook to the Environs of London; 2 vols., 1877. Memorials of London and London Life in the 13th, 14th, and 15th Centuries, by H. T. Rileii; 1868. Knight's London-, 2 vols.; illustrated. Cassell's Old and New London, by W. Thornbury and E. Walford; 6 vols., illustrated-, 4th ed., 1887. Cassell's Greater London (15 miles), by E. Walford; 2 vols., illustrated, Dickens's London, by T. E. Pemberton; 1876. Thackeray's London, by W. H. Rideing; 1885. Old London Street Cries and the Cries of To-day, by A. W. Tuer; illustrated; 1885. Literary Landmarks of London, by Laurence Button; 4th ed., 1888. The Highway of Letters (Fleet Street), by Thomas Archer; illustrated; 1893. Memorable London Houses, by Wilmot Harrison (1889). London in the Jacobite Times, by Dr. Doran; 2 vols., 1877. The Romance of London, by /. Timhs; 1865. Curiosities of London, by /. Timhs; 1876. Clubs and Club Life in London, by /. Timbs; illustrated. Haunted London, by W. Thornbury, edited by E. Walford. Tho Town, by Leigh Hunt; illustrated; last ed., 1893. The Old Court Suburb (Kensington), by Leigh Hunt; 1860. Saunter through the West End, by Leigh Hunt; 1861. Dickms''s Dictionary of London (Is.) and Dictionary of the Thames (1«.). Massey's Streets of London (Is.) is intended to help the traveller in ascertaining the position of any street in London. Whitaker''s Almanack (Is. and 2s. Qd.) gives a large amount of useful nformation in a condensed form. I. THEjOITY. 1. St. Panl's Cathedral. The City, already noticed in the Introduction as the commercial centre of London, has sometimes also been not unaptly termed its capital. In the very heart of it, conspicuously situated on a slight eminence , stands London's most prominent building , *St. Paul's Cathedral (PL R, 39 ; i//). Some authorities maintain that in pagan times a temple of Diana occupied the site of St. Paul's, but Sir Christopher Wren rejected this idea. Still the spot must at least have been one of some sanctity, to judge from the cinerary urns and other vessels found here, and Wren was of opinion, from remains discovered in digging the foundations of the present edifice, that there had been a church on this spot built by Christians in the time of the Romans, and demolished by the Pagan Saxons. It is believed to have been restored by Ethelbert, King of Kent, about A.D. 610. This building vi^as burned down in 961 , and rebuilt within a year. It was again destroyed by fire in 1087, but a new edifice was at once begun, though not completed for about 200 years. This church, Old St. Paul's, was 590 ft. long (30 ft. longer than Winchester cathedral, now the longest church in England), and in 1315 was furnished with a timber spire, covered with lead, 460 ft. high according to Wren's estimate, though earlier authorities state it to have been 520 ft. in height (i.e. 8 ft. higher than Cologne Cathedral). The spire was injured by lightning in 1445, but was restored, and it continued standing till 1561, when it fell a prey to the flames. The church itself was damaged by this fire, and fell into a very dilapidated condition. The S.W. tower was called the Lollards' Tower (comp. p. 310). Before the building of the Lady Chapel in 1225 the choir was adjoined by the church of St. Faith, the name of which was after- wards applied to the crypt beneath the cathedral-choir, which was used by the congregation on the demolition of their church. Near the cathedral once stood the celebrated Cross of St. Paul (Powle's Cross), where sermons were preached, papal bulls promulgated, heretics made to recant, andwitches to confess, and where the Pope's condemnation of Luther was proclaimed in the presence of Wolsey. The cross and adjacent pulpit were at length removed by order of parliament in 1643. The platform on which the cross stood was discovered in 1879, at a depth of about 6 ft., by workmen engaged in laying out the garden on the N.E. side of the church (comp. Plan). The subterranean portions of the half-ruined church were used as work- shops and wine-cellars. A theatre was erected against one of the outer walls, and the nave was converted into a public promenade, the once famous PauVs Walk. The Protector Somerset (in the reign of Edward VI.) went so far as to employ the stones of the ancient edifice in the con- struction of his palace (Somerset House, p. 146). In the reign of Charles I. an extensive restoration was undertaken, and a beautiful portico built by Inigo Jones. The Civil War, however, put an end to this work. After the Restoration, when the church was about to be repaired, its remains were destroyed by the-Great Fire of 1666 (p. 113), though the ruinous nave was used for service until 1673. — Among the numerous historical remi- niscences attaching to Old St. Paul's, we may mention that it was the burial-place of a long series of illustrious persons, and the scene of Wy- cliiFe's citation for heresy in 1337, and of the burning of Tyndale's New Testament in 1527. — The farm of Tillingham in Essex has belonged to St. Paul's since the 7th cent., representing perhaps the most ancient tenure in the country. The present church, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, and begun in 1675, was opened for divine service in 1697, and com- B\EDEKEB, London. 9th Edit. Q 82 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. pleted in 1710. It is interesting to notice that the whole build- ing was completed by one architect, Sir Christopher Wren, and by one master mason, Thomas Strong, under one bishop. Dr. Compton. The greater part of the cost of construction (747, 954i.) was defrayed by a tax on coal. Sir Christopher "Wren received during the build- ing of the cathedral a salary of 200l. a year. The church, which resembles St. Peter's at Rome, though much smaller, is in the form of a Latin cross. It is 500 ft. in length and 118 ft. broad, and the transept is 250 ft. long. The inner^dome is 225 ft., the outer, from the pavement to the top of the cross, 364 ft. in height. The diameter of the drum beneath the dome is about 112 ft., of the dome itself 102 ft. (37 ft. less than that of St. Pe- ter's at Rome). In the original model the plan of the building was that of a Greek cross, having over the centre a large dome, sup- ported by eight pillars ; but the court party, which was favourable to Roman Catholicism, insisted, notwithstanding Wren's oppo- sition , on the erection of the cathedral with a long nave and an extensive choir, suitable for the Romish ritual. The church is so hemmed in by streets and houses that it is difficult to find a point of view whence the colossal proportions of the building can be properly realised. The best idea of the ma- jestic dome, allowed to be the finest known, is obtained from a distance, e.g. from Blackfriars Bridge. St. Paul's is the third largest church in Christendom, being surpassed only by St. Peter's at Rome and the Cathedral of Milan. Exterior. It is interesting to note the union of classic details and style with the essentially Gothic structure of St. Paul's. It has aisles lower than the nave and surmounted by a triforium, just as in regular Gothic churches. But the triforium, though on a large scale, is not shown from the nave ; while the lowness of the aisles is concealed on the outside by masking-walls, so as to preserve the classical appearance and cover what would be, in a Gothic church, the flying buttresses. The West Facade, towards Ludgate Hill, was brought better to view in 1873 by the removal of the railing which formerly surrounded the whole church. In front of it rises a Statue of Queen Anne, with England, France, Ireland, and America at her feet ; the present statue, by Belt, erected in 1886, is a replica of the original by Bird (1712). The facade, 180 ft. in breadth, is approached by a flight of 22 marble steps, and presents a double portico, the lower part of which consists of 12 coupled Corinthian pillars, 50ft. high, and the upper of 8 Composite pillars, 40ft. high. On the apex of the pediment above the second row of pillars , which contains a relief of the Conversion of St. Paul by Bird, rises a statue of St. Paul 15 ft. in height, with St. Peter and St. James on his right and left. On each side of the facade is a campanile tower, 222 ft. in height, with statues of the four Evan- gelists at the angles. The one on the N. side contains a fine peal of 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDJIAL. 83 84 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 12 bells, hung in 1878, and tlie other contains the largest bell in England ('Great Paul'), hung in 1882 and weighing more than 16 tons. Each arm of the transept is terminated by a semicircular por- tico, adorned with five statues of the Apostles, by Bird. Over the S. portico is a phoenix, with the inscription 'Resurgam', by Cibber ; over the N. portico, the English arms. In reference to the former it is related, that, when the position and dimensions of the great dome had been marked out, a labourer was ordered to bring a stone from the rubbish of the old cathedral to be placed as a guide to the masons. The stone which he happened to bring was a piece of a gravestone with nothing of the inscription remaining save the one word 'Resurgam' in large letters. This incident was regarded as a favourable omen, and the word accordingly adopted as a motto. At the E. end the church terminates in a circular projection or apse. The balustrade, about 9 ft. high, on the top of the N. and S. walls was erected contrary to the wishes of Wren , and is considered by modern architects a mistake. A drum in two sections, the lower embellished with Corinthian , the upper with Composite columns, bears the finely-proportioned double Dome, the outer part of which consists of wood covered with lead. The Lantern above it is support- ed by a hollow cone of brickwork resting upon the inner dome. On the top of the lantern is a ball, surmounted by a cross, the ball and cross together weighing 8960 pounds. The ball is 6ft. in diameter, and can hold ten or twelve persons. The church is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The usual Entrances are on the W. and N. The monuments may be inspected, free of charge, at any time, except during divine service, which takes place daily at 10 a.m. (choral) and 4 p.m. (choral) in the choir, and on Sundays at 8 a.m., 10.30 a.m. (fine music), 3.15 p.m., and 7 p.m. On week-days daily services are also held at 8 a.m. and 8 p.m. in the chapel in the crypt, and Holy Communion is celebrated at 8 a.m. and a short sermon preached at 1.16 p.m. in the N.W. chapel. The choir is closed except during divine service, but between 11 and 1 and between 2 and 3.30 (free) the verger admits visitors who wait at the gate of the N. ambulatory. Tickets admitting to the Library, Clock, the Whispering Gallery, and the Stone Gallery (6d.) and to the *Crypt and Vaults (6d.) are obtained in the S. transept. Tickets admitting to the Golden Gallery (Is.) and to the Ball (1».) are obtained from the keeper in the Stone Gallery. The Intekior is imposing from the beauty and vastness of its proportions, but strikes one as bare and dark. Though it is evi- dent from the care with which the caryed stone enrichments are executed that Wren did not contemplate decorating the entire in- terior in the rich style of the Italian churches of the day, it is prob- able that he intended some portions to be adorned in colour. But with the exception of Thornhiirs grisailles (see below), practically nothing was done in this direction until about 1860, when a Decor- ation Completion Fund was founded, mainly through the exertions of the Dean Milman (p. 89), for the embellishment of the interior with marble, gilding, mosaics, and stained glass. The decoration of the dome was completed in 1863-94, and the embellishment of the choir (see p. 86) was begun in 1891. The dome is adorned 1. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 85 with eight scenes from the life of St. Paul in grisaille by Thornhill, restored in 1854, hut hardly visible from below (see p. 89). The eight large mosaics in the spandrils of the dome, executed by Sal- viati, represent St. Matthew and St. John, designed byG'. F.Watts, St. Mark and St. Luke, by Brittan, and Isaiah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel, and Daniel, by A. Stevens. In the niches above the Whispering Gallery are marble statues of the Fathers of the Church. The Organ^ which is one of the finest in Great Britain, is divided into two parts, one on each side of the choir, with connecting mechanism under the choir flooring. The builder, Mr, Willis, in constructing it, used some of the pipes of the old organ by Father Smith or Schmitz, which dated back to 1694. Above the N. door is the tablet in memory of Sir Christopher Wren, with the inscription contain- ing the celebrated words, ''Lector, si monumentum requiris, circum- spice\ This tablet formerly stood at the entrance to the choir. The numerous monuments of celebrated Englishmen (chiefly naval and military officers) , which make the church a kind of national Temple of Fame (though second to Westminster Abbey, p. 200), are very rarely of artistic value, while many are remarkable for egregiously bad taste. The Grand Entbancb (W.) is a favourable point for a survey of the whole length of the nave. The N.W. or Morning Chapel, to the left, is handsomely decorated with marble. The mosaic, repre- senting the Risen Saviour, was executed by Salviati, and commem- orates Archdeacon Hale. The stained-glass window is a memorial of Dean Mansel (1868-71). Then to the left, in the N. Aisle : — L. The Crimean Cavalry Monument , in memory of the officers and men of the British cavalry who fell in the Crimean war (1854-56). L. Major-General Sir Herbert Stewart, who died in 1885 of wounds received at the battle of Abu-kru, Egypt; bronze medallion and reliefs by Boehm. L. Major-General Charles George Gordon, killed at Khartoum in 1885; sarcophagus-tomb, with bronze effigy by Boehm. R. , beneath the central arch of the aisle : *Monument to the Duke of Wellington (d. 1852), by Stevens. The bronze figure of Wellington rests on a lofty sarcophagus, overshadowed by a rich marble canopy, with 12 Qorinthian columns. Above is a colossal group of Valour overcoming Cowardice. This imposing monument still wants the equestrian effigy with which the sculptor intended it to be crowned. Though originally designed for its present position, this monument stood in the Consistory Court (p. 88) until 1893. L. Lord William Melbourne (d. 1848) and Lord Frederick Mel- bourne (d. 1853), by Marochetti. Two angels guard the closed en- trance to the tomb. — On each side is a brass plate, on which are inscribed the names of the officers and crew (484 in number) of the ill-starred line-of-battle ship Captain, which foundered with all hands off Cape Finisterre on 7th Sept., 1870. 86 1/ ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. In the N. Transept : — L. Sir Joshua Reynolds (d. 1792), the celebrated painter, statue by Flaxman. Upon the broken column to his left is a medallion- portrait of Michael Angelo. L. Admiral Lord Rodney (d. 1792), by Rossi. At his feet, to the left, is History listening to the Goddess of Fame (on the right), who recounts the Admiral's exploits. L. Lieutenant- General Sir Thomas Picton (killed at "Waterloo in 1815), by Gahagan. In front of his bust is a Goddess of Victory presenting a crown of laurels to a warrior, upon whose shoulder leans the Genius of Immortality. R. Admiral Earl St. Vincent (d. 1823), the victor at Cape St. Vincent ; statue by Baily. L. General William Francis Patrick Napier (d. 1860), the his- torian of the Peninsular War, by Adams. L. Sir Charles James Napier (d. 1853) ; statue by Adams , *a prescient General, a beneficent Governor, a justMan' (corap.p. 150). R. Admiral Lord Duncan (d. 1804), who defeated the Dutch in the naval battle of Camperdown ; statue by Westmacott. L. General Sir William Ponsonby (d. 1815) , 'who fell glor- iously in the battle of Waterloo', by Baily ; a nude dying hero, crowned by the Goddess of Victory, with a falling horse in the rear. L. Admiral Charles Napier (d. 1860), commander of the Eng- lish Baltic fleet in 1854, with portrait in relief, by Adams. L. Henry Hallam (d. 1859), the historian ; statue by Theed. L. *I>r. Samuel Johnson (d. 1784) , statue by Bacon. We have now arrived at the entrance to the Choir (adm., see p. 84), the most conspicuous object in which is the Reredos, an elaborate white Parian marble structure in the Italian Renaissance style, designed by Messrs. Bodley SiV John Oilbert, presented by the artist, and a few other recent donations. Among the busts are those of Cobden, Gladstone, Beaconsfield, Granville Sharp (by Chantrey), and Nelson. Loan exhibitions are occasionally held. The numerous pigeons (fed daily about 11 a.m.) which congregate in the nooks and crannies of the Guildhall, or fly about the yard, will remind the traveller of the famous pigeons of St. Mark at Venice. Brewers^ Hall, in Addle Lane , to the N. of the Guildhall, has an ancient kitchen and a curiously decorated leaden cistern. — At the corner of Basinghall Street, to the E. of the Guildhall, stands Gresham College, founded by Sir Thomas Gresham (p. 106) in 1579 for the delivery of lectures by seven professors , on law, divinity, medicine, rhetoric, geometry, astronomy, and music. The lectures were delivered in Gresham's house in Bishopsgate Street until 1843, when the present hall was erected out of the accumulated capital. The lecture theatre can hold 500 persons. According to Gres- hams will, the lectures were to be delivered in the middle of the day, and in Latin, but the speakers now deliver their courses of four lectures each in English, at 6 p.m. (free). From Gresham College we return to Cheapside by Ironmonger Lane, in which is the entrance to Mercers' Hall, the guild-house of the silk mercers, rebuilt in 1884, the fagade of which is in Cheapside. The interior (otherwise uninteresting) contains por- traits of Dean Colet, founder of St. Paul's School, and Sir Thomas Gresham, founder of the Exchange, as well as a few relics of Sir Richard Whittington. The chapel, which is adorned with modern frescoes of Becket's Martyrdom and the Ascension, occupies the site of the house in which Thomas Becket was born in 1119, and where a hospital and chapel were erected to his memory about the year 1190. Henry VIII. afterwards granted the hospital to the Mer- cers, who had been incorporated in 1393. Old Jewry , to the E. of Mercers' Hall, derives its name from the synagogue which stood here prior to the persecution of the 104 4. MANSION HOUSE. the room at the top of the staircase Jews in 1291. On its site, close to the Bank, now stands the Grocers' Hall, the guild-house of the Grocers, or, as they were once called, the ^Pepperers\ v/ith a fine stained-glass window. This company is one of the oldest in London. At No. 26 Old Jewry are the headquarters of the City Police. Old Jewry is continued towards the N. by Coleman Street, in which, on the right, is sil uated the Armourers Hall (Pi. R, 39 ; III), founded about 1450, and spared by the Are of 1G66. It contains an inter- esting and valuable collection of armour and old plate. The continuation of Cheapside towards the E. is called the Poultry, once the street of the poulterers, at the farther end of which, ontheright, rises the Mansion House ( PL R, 39 ; i//), the offi- cial residence of the Lord Mayor during his year of office, erected by Dance in 1739-52. Lord Burlington sent in a design by the famous Italian architect Palladio, which was rejected on the naive question of one of the aldermen — 'Who was Palladio — was he a freeman of the city?' The building is preceded by a Corinthian hexastyle portico. The tympanum contains an allegorical group in relief by Sir Robert Taylor. In the interior, to the left of ttie entrance, is the Lord Mayor's police- court, open to the public daily from 12 to 2. The long suite of state and reception rooms are only shown by the special permission of the Lord Mayor. The principal room is the Egyptian Hall, in which the Lord Mayor gives his banquets and balls, said to be a reproduction of the hall described under that name by Vitruvius. It contains several pieces of modern English sculpture: *C'aractacus and the nymph Egeria, by Foley; Genius and the Morning Star, by Baily ; Conius, by Lough; Griselda. by Marshall. The interior of St. Stephen's Church, WaZ&roo/c, . behind the Mansion House , with its graceful dome supported by Corinthian columns, is considered one of Wren's masterpieces. Altarpieee by West, Stoning of St. Stephen. Walbrook leads direct to Cannon Street Station (p. 37). Queen Victoria Street, 73 M. in length, one of the great modern improvements of London, constructed at vast expense, leads directly from the Mansion House to Blackfriars Bridge (see p. 117). 5. The Bank of England. The Exchange. Stock Exchange. Merchant Taylors' Hall. Crosby Hall. St. Helen's Church. Cornhill. Leadenhall Market. St. Andrew'' s Undershaft. Corn Exchange. Toynbee Hall. People's Palace. The space (PI. R, 39, 43 ; ///) enclosed by the Mansion House, the Bank, and the Exchange, is the centre from which radiate the most important streets of 'the City'. It is also the chief point of convergence of the London omnibus traffic, which during business hours is enormous. Opposite the Mansion House, and bounded on the S. by Thread- needle Street, on theW. by Prince's Street, on the N. by Lothbury, 5. BANK OF ENGLAND. 105 and on the E. by Bartholomew Lane, stands the Bank of England (PI. R,39,43 ; ///), an irregular and Isolated building of one story, the W. part of which was designed by Sir John Soane in 1788. The external walls are entirely devoid of windows, the Bank being, for the sake of security, lighted from interior courts. The only attrac- tive portion of the architecture is at the N.W. angle, which was copied from the Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. The edifice covers an area of about four acres. The Bank was founded in 1691 by William Paterson, a Scots- man. It is a joint stock bank, and was the first of the kind estab- lished in the kingdom. Having exclusive privileges in the me- tropolis , secured by Royal Charter, it continued to be the only joint stock bank in London till 1834, when the London and West- minster Bank, soon to be followed by many others, was established. The Bank of England is still the only bank in London which has the power of issuing paper money. Its original capital was l,200,000i., which has since been mnltiplied more than twelve- fold. It now employs 900 persons at salaries varying from 50i. to 1,1001. (in all 210, 000^.). The vaults usually contain about 20 mil- lion pounds sterling in gold and silver , while there are over 25 millions of pounds sterling of the Bank's notes in circulation. The Bank receives 200,000i. a year for managing the national debt (now amounting to about 670,000,000^.), besides which it carries on business like other banks in discounting bills, receiving deposits, and lending money. It is bound to buy all gold bullion brought to it, at the rate of ^l. lis'. 9d. per.oz. The average amount of money negociated in the Bank per day is over 2,000,000i. The business offices of the Bank are open to the public daily from 9, to 3 ; the Printing, Weighing, and Bullion Offices are shown only by the special order of the Governor or Deputy-Governor, to whom an introduction must be obtained. The account-books of the Bank are ruled and cut in the Ruling Room, and bound in the Binding Room. The Bank also contains a general PiHnt- ing Room, and a special Bank-note PiHniing Room, where 15,000 new bank- notes are produced daily. Many notes of ICKJO?. are printed, and cases have been known of the issue of notes for as large sums as 50,000?. or 100,000^ The Bank pays above 70,000?. annually to the Stamp Oflice for stamps on notes ^ and it is estimated that its losses, from forgeries, etc., have amounted at times to more than 40,000?. annually. The note print- ing-press is exceedingly interesting. In the Old Note Office the halves of old bank-notes are kept for a period of ten years. All notes paid into the Bank are at once cancelled, so that in some cases the active life of a bank-note may not be longer than a single day. The cancelled notes, however, are kept for ten years, in case they may be required as testi- mony in a court of law. Every month the notes received in the corre- sponding month ten years ago are burned; and tlie furnace provided for this purpose, 5 ft. in height and 10ft. in diameter, is said to be completely filled on each occasion. The stock of paid notes for five years amounts to about 80 millions; if the notes were joined end to end they would form a ribbon 13,000 M. long, while their superficial extent would almost equal that of Hyde Park. The Bank-Note Autograph Books contain the signatures of various royal and distinguished personages. A bank-note 106 5. ROYAL EXCHANGE. for i,000,OlO/. is also exLibited to the curious visitor. The Weighing Of- fice contain' a machine for weighing sovereigns (33 per minute), which throws those of full weight into one compartment and the light ones into another. The Bullion Office is the treasury for the precious metals. The Bank is protected at night by a small garrison of s( Idiers. In Post Office Court, Lombard Street, is the Bankers' Clearing Houie^ a useful institution through which bankers obtain the amount of cheques and bills in their hands without the trouble of collecting them at the various banks on which they are drawn. The bills and cheques received by the various bankers during the day are here compared, and the difference settled by a cheque on the Bank of England. The amount changing hands here is enormous, reaching in the year ending Dec. 31st,, 1892, the sum of 6,481,562,000/. (1,318,986,C00;. less than in 1890). In Capel Court, opposite the Bank , is tlie Stock Exchange, the headquarters of the Stock-brokers (about 1300 in number) and Stock-jobbers (about 2000), each of whom pays a large entrance fee and an annual subscription of 30 guineas. Strangers are not ad- mitted. The Stock Exchange (familiarly known in the City as 'the house') has recently been much enlarged. In Throgmorton Street, to the N. of the Stock Exchange, is the Drapers' Hall, containing a portrait of Nelson by Sir William Beechey, and a picture of Mary, Queen of Scots, and her son James I., attributed to Zucchero. Adjoining is the Drapers' Garden, con- taining one or two old mulberry-trees. The Dutch Church in Austin Friars, behind the Drapers' Hall, dates from the 14th cent, and is one of the few ecclesiastical edi- fices which escaped the Are of 1666. It contains numerous more or less interesting graves of the 14-16th centuries. The Royal Exchange (PI. R, 43 ; III), built in 1842-44 by Tite, a successor to the first Exchange erected in 1564-70 by Sir Thomas Gresham, is preceded by a Corinthian portico , and approached by a broad flight of steps. The group in the tympanum is by West- macott : in the centre is Commerce, holding the charter of the Ex- change in her hand ; on the right the Lord Mayor , municipal officials, an Indian, an Arab, a Greek, and a Turk; on the left English merchants, a Chinese, a Persian, a Negro, etc. On the architrave below is the inscription : 'The Earth is the Lord's and the fulness thereof. The interior of the Exchange forms a quadrangular covered court surrounded by colonnades. In the centre is a statue of Queen Victoria, by Lough; in theN.E. and S.E, corners are statues of Queen Elizabeth, by Watson,, and Charles II. The walls of the coloni\ades bear the armorial bearings and products of the different countries of Europe and America, in encaustic painting. The tesselated pavement of Turkey stone is the original one of Gresham's Exchange, opened by Queen Elizabeth on June 23rd, 1571. The chief business hour is from 3.30 to 4.30 p.m., and the most im- portant days are Tuesdays and Fridays. On the E. side rises a campanile, 180 ft. in height. On the front (E.) of the tower is a statue of Sir Thomas Gresham , and at the top is a large gilded 5. MERCHANT TAYLORS' HALL. 107 vaue in the shape of a grasshopper (Gresham's crest). The shops on the outside of the Exchange greatly disfigure the building. Nearly opposite the Exchange is No. 15 Cornhill, occupied by Messrs. Birch, confectioners, and said to be the oldest shop in London. At the E. end of the Exchange a staircase, adorned with a statue of Prince Albert by Lough, ascends to Lloyd's Subscription Rooms, the central point of every kind of business connected witb navigation, maritime trade, marine insurance, and shipping intel- ligence. The vestibule is adorned with a statue of Huskisson by Oibson. On the wall is a tablet to the 'Times' newspaper, erected in recognition of the public service it rendered by the exposure of a fraudulent financial conspiracy of gigantic character. The first room is used by Underwriters; the second is the Reading-room, containing a series of huge ledgers in which the most detailed information as to the merchant-shipping of the world is carefully posted from day to day ; the third or 'Captains' Room' is a restaurant accessible only to members of 'Lloyd's' and their friends. In front of the Exchange is an Equestrian Statue of Wellington, by Chantrey, erected in 1844, beside which is a handsome fountain with a female figure. On the S.E. side of the Exchange is a statue (erected in 1882) of Sir Rowland Hill , the inventor of the cheap postal system. Behind the Exchange, in Threadneedle Street, is a statue, in a sitting posture, of Peabody (d. 1869), the American philanthropist, by Story, erected in 1871 by public subscription. George Peabody, an American merchant, who carried on an extensive business and spent much of his time in London , gave at different times upwards of half a million of money for the erection of suitable dwellings for the working classes of the metropolis. The property is managed by a body of trustees. The number of persons accommodated in the Peabody Buildings is about 20,000, each family paying an average weekly rent of about 4.?. %d., which includes the use of baths and wash-houses. The capital of the fund now amounts to about 1,110,000/. Mr. Peabody declined a baronetcy offered by the Queen, but accepted a miniature portrait of Her Majesty. He spent and bequeathed still larger sums for educational and benevolent purposes in America, the grand total of his gifts amounting to nearly 2,000,000/. sterling. Farther along Threadneedle Street, beyond Finch Lane, is the Merchant Taylors' Hall, the largest of the London Companies' halls, erected, after the Great Fire of 1666, by Jarman (admission on application to a member). The company was incorporated in 1466. The handsome hall contains some good portraits : Henry VIII., by Paris Bordone ; Duke of York, by Lawrence ; Duke of Wellington, by Wilkie ; Charles I. ; Charles II. ; James II. ; William III. ; Queen Anne; George III. and his consort; Lord Chancellor Eldon, by Briggs ; Pitt, by Hoppner. There is also a valuable collection of old plate. The small, but interesting Crypt was spared by the Fire. Threadneedle Street ends at Bishopsgate Street Within , in which , near the point of junction , stands * Crosby Hall, built in 1466 by Alderman Sir John Crosby, and once occupied by the notorious Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard HI. The 108 5. ST. HELEN'S CHURCH. building subsequently belonged to Sir Thomas More, and it is mentioned by Shakspeare in his 'Richard III.' For a long time it was used for the reception of ambassadors, and was considered the finest house in London. During the Protectorate it was a prison ; and it afterwards became in turn a meeting-house, a warehouse, and a concert and lecture room. It has been lately restored, and is now used as a restaurant (p. 14). Crosby Hall deserves a visit as being one of the few existing relics of the domestic architecture of mediaeval London, and the only one in the Gothic style. The present street front and many parts of the interior do not belong to the ancient structure. The Banqueting Hall has a fine oaken roof. St. Helen's Church, near Crosby Hall, called by Dean Stanley the 'Westminster Abbey of the City', once belonged to an ancient nunnery and dates originally from 1145-50. Among other old monuments, it contains those of Sir John Crosby and Sir Thomas Gresham (see p. 103). The Latin inscription on the tomb of Sir Julius Cffisar [d. 1636), Master of the Rolls in the reign of James I., is to the effect that he had given his bond to Heaven to yield up his soul willingly when God should demand it. His monument, in the Chapel of the Holy Ghost , is by Nicholas Stone. . Over the picturesque 'Nuns' Gate' is a recent inscription to Alberico Gen- tile , the Italian jurist , and professor of civil law at Oxford, who was buried near it. A stained-glass window was erected in 1884 to the memory of Shakspeare, who was a parishioner in 1598 and is rated in the parish books for bl. 13s. Ad. See 'Annals of St. Helen's, Bishopsgate' , by Rev. J. E. Cox, D.D. (1876). — In St. Helen's Place is the modern Hall of the Leather seller s , a com- pany incorporated at the end of the 14th century. The building is erected over the old crypt of St. Helen's Nunnery. The National Provincial Bank of England^ 112 Bishopsgate Street, is worth visiting for the beautiful interior of its large hall, a remarkable specimen of the Byzantine-Romanesque style, with polished granite columns and polychrome decoration. Bishopsgate Street Within is continued to the N. by Bishopsgate Street Without {i.e. outside the walls'), passing (on the left) Liver- pool Street (Station, see p. 32). Shoreditch, the continuation of Bishopsgate Street, leads to the chief goods depot of the Great Eastern Railway, beneath which a fish, fruit, and vegetable market was opened in 1882. To the E. lies Spitalfields (p. 67), beyond which is Bethnal Green (p. 67). At No. 204 High Street, Shore- ditch, is the Standard Theatre (PI. R, 44), a characteristic 'East End' place of amusement (see p. 42). The Britannia Theatre (PI. B, 44), in Hoxton Street, lies to the N. W., in the crowded district of Hox- ton. Shoreilitch High Street is continued due N. by Kingsland Road to Kingsland and to Dalston, where the German Hospital is situ- ated. Still farther to the N. are Stoke Newington and Clapton. 5. CORNHILL. 109 lu Cornhill , tlie street wMcli leads to the E. straight past the S. side of the Exchange, rises on the right (S.) St. Michael's Church., with a large late-Gothic tower, huilt by Wren, and restored hy Sir G. G. Scott. Farther on is St. Peter's Church, which accord- ing to a groundless tradition was originally built by the ancient Britons. Gray, the poet (1716-71"), was born in the house which formerly occupied the site of No. 41 Cornhill. In Leadenhall Street, which continues Cornhill, stands, on the right and near the corner of Gracechurch Street, Leadenhall Market, one of the chief marts in London for poultry, game, and hides (seep. 261. Farther on, to the left, is the small church of St. Andrew Undershaft {i.e. under the maypole, as the maypole which used to be erected here was higher than the tower of the church); the turreted late -Gothic tower dates from 1532. At the end of the N. aisle is the tomb of Stow, the antiquary (d. 1605). Still farther on, on the same side, is the Church of St. Catherine Cree, with an interior by Inigo Jones, being the suc- cessor of an older church in which Holbein (d. 1543) is said to have been interred. The character of the services held here by Archbp. Laud in i631 at the consecration of the church formed one of the charges in his trial. The old House of the East India Company, in which Charles Lamb was a clerk, stood at the corner of Leaden- hall Street and Lime Street. The New Zealand Chambers {^o. 34), nearly opposite St. Andrew Undershaft's, are one of Norman Shaw's reproductions of medifeval architecture. Leadenhall Street is joined at its E. end by Fenchurch Street (see below). Lombard Street and Fenchurch Street, forming a line on the S. nearly parallel to Cornhill and Leadenhall Street, are also among the busiest thoroughfares of the city. Lombard Street has been for ages the most noted street in London for banking and finance, and has inherited its name from the 'Lombard' money dealers from Genoa and Florence, who, in the 14th and 15th centuries, took the place of the discredited and persecuted Jews of 'Old Jewry' as money lenders. Fenchurch Street reminds us by its name of the fenny character of the district when the old church was built (drained by the little stream of 'Lang bourne' running into the 'Walbrook'if. On the N, side of the street is the Elephant Tavern (rebuilt), where Hogarth lodged for some time, and which was once adorned with several of his works. Adjacent is the Iron- mongers' Hall, whose company dates from the reign of Edward IV., with an interesting interior, portraits of Izaak Walton and Admiral Hood, etc. Fenchurch Street is connected with Great Tower Street by Mincing Lane (so called from the 'minchens', or nuns of St. Helen's, to whom part of it belonged) , which is the central point of the colonial wholesale trade. The fine Tower of All Hallows \ Mr. Loftie thinks 'fen' may be a corruption of the Anglo-Saxon /otn (hay), as 'grace'' in Gracechurch Street is of grais. 110 5. CORN EXCHANaE. Staining in this lane is one of the oldest of the relics wldch have survived the Great Fire. The Clothworkers' Hall^ in the same street, dates originally from the 15th century. A little to the E., in Mark Lane [originally Mart Lane), is tlie Corn Exchange (PL R, 43 ; ///), and near it is Fenchurch Street Station (for the railway to Blackwall, p. 34). On the E. side of Mark Lane is Hart Street, with the Church of St. Olave, interesting as having survived the Great Fire, and as the church once frequented by Samuel Pepys (d. 1703). The picturesque interior contains a numher of curious old tombs, including those of Pepys and his wife. A bust of Pepys was placed on the S. wall in 1884. Many persons who died of the plague in 1665 are buried in the churchyard. In the same street once stood a monastery of the 'Crossed Friars', a reminiscence of whom still exists in the adjoining street of Crutched Friars. — From the junction of Fenchurch Street and Leadenhall Street, Aldgate High Street runs E. to the Aldgate Station of the Metropolitan Railway. On theE. margin of the City proper lie Whitbchapi^l, a district chiefly inhabited by artisans, and Hounusditch, the quarter of Jew brokers and second-hand dealers, whence the Minories lead south- wards to the Tower and the Thames. In the Minories rigfes the old Church of the Trinity, once belonging to a Minorite nunnery, and containing the head of the Duke of Suffolk (beheaded, 1554) and several curious old monuments. The main thoroughfare traversing this E. London district is Whitechapel Road, contiuued by Mile End Road, leading to Bow and Stratford (comp. p. 342). To the left, about 1/4 M. beyond Aid- gate Station (p. 36), diverges Commercial Street, in which stands St. Jude's Church (PL R, 47 ; III), containing copies of four of the principal works of Mr. G. F. Watts, finished off by that artist himself ('Love and Death', 'Messenger of Death', 'Death crown- ing Innocence', 'The Good Samaritan'). The exterior is adorned with a fine mosaic after Watts. Adjoining tlie churcli is Toynbee Hall, named after Arnold Toynbee^ who died in the prime of youth (in 1883), while actively engaged in lecturing on political economy to the working-men of London. The hall, which is a 'halF in the academic sense, contains rooms for about 20 residents, chiefly Oxford and Cambridge graduates desirous of sharing the life and experiences of the E. end poor. It also contains drawing, dining, reading, and lecture rooms, a library, etc., in which numerous social meetings are held for the people of the neighbourhood. The warden is the Rev. Canon S. Karnett, vicar of St. Jude's. Those interested in work of tliis kind should write to the secretary for cards of admission. Toynbee Hall is also one of the centres of the 'University Extension Lectures' scheme. — Ojford House, Mape St., Bethnal Green Road, and Mansfield House, 143 Barking R;,ad, Canning Town, are similar institutions. -^ ^'0"n E.ihiintion of Pictures, established by Mr. and Mrs. Barnett in 1880, is held for a fortnight or three weeks every Easter (10-10; free) in the schoolrooms adjoining St. .Jude's. It generally contains some of the best works of modern English artists, and now ranks among the artistic events' of the year. In Mile End Road, about V2 M. farther on, 'is the People's 6. LONDON BRIDGE. 1 1 1 Palace for East London, a large institution for the 'recreation and amusement, the intellectual and material advancement of the vast artisan population of the East End'. Its form was suggested by the 'Palace of Delight' described in Mr. Walter Besant's novel, 'All Sorts and Conditions of Men'; and the nucleus of the 100,000Z. required for its erection was furnished by an endowment of Mr. J. F. Barber Beaumont (d. 1841). This has been largely supple- mented by voluntary public subscriptions, including 60,000^ from the Drapers' Company. The large ^Queens' JIaU., opened by ^ueen Victoria in May, 1887, is adorned with statues of the queens of England, etc., by F. Verheyden. When complete the Palace will comprise technical and trade schools, a reference library, reading- rooms , a covered garden and promenade , an open-air garden and recreation ground , swimming-baths, gymnasia, schools of cookery and needle- work, etc. Several of these have already been erected. Exhibitions, concerts, and entertainments of various kinds are held here ; and the evening classes are attended by about 3000 students. 6. London Bridge. The Monument. Lower Thames Street. Fishmongers' Hall. St. Magnus the Martyr s. Billingsgate. Custom House. Coal Exchange. King William Street, a wide thoroughlare with handsome build- ings, leads S.E. from the Bank to London Bridge. Immediately on the left, at the corner of Lombard Street, is the church of St. Mary Woolnoth, erected in 1716, by Hawksmoor. It contains a tablet to the memory of Newton, the friend of Cowper the poet, with an epitaph by himself. Newton's remains , however, were removed to Olney in 1893. Farther on, at the point where King William Street, Gracechurch Street, Eastcheap, and Cannon Street (_p. 119) converge, on a site once occupied by Falstaff's 'Boar's Head Tavern', rises the Statue of William IV., by Nixon. Adjacent are the Monu- ment Station of the Underground Railway (p. 37) and the City Ter- minus of the Electric Railway (p. 113). To the left, in Fish Street Hill, is the Monument (see p. 112). On each side of the first arch of London Bridge, which crosses Lower Tfiames Street (p. 113), are flights of stone steps descending to the street below. London Bridge [PI. R, 42; IlT), until a century ago the only bridge over the Thames in London, and still the most important, connects the City, the central point of business, with the Borough, on the Surrey (S.) side of the river (see p. 307). The Saxons, and perhaps the Romans before them, erected various wooden bridges over the Thames near the site of the present London Bridge , biit these were all at different periods carried away by floods or destroyed by fire. At length in 1176 Henry II. instructed Peter, chaplain of the church of St. Mary Cole, to construct a stone 1 1 2 6. THE MONUMENT. bridge at this point, but the work was" not completed till 1209, in the reign of Henry's son, John. A chapel, dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, was built upon the bridge , and a row of houses sprang up on each side, so that the bridge resembled a continuous street. It was terminated at both banks by fortified gates , on the pinnacles of which the heads of traitors used to be exposed. In one of the houses dwelt Sir Jolin Hewitt, Lord Mayor in the time of Queen Elizabeth , whose daughter , according to the romantic story, fell into the river, and was rescued by Edward Osborne, his apprentice. The brave and fortunate youth afterwards married the young lady and founded the family of the present Uuke of Leeds. The present London Bridge, 33yds. higher up the river than the old bridge (removed in 1832), was designed by John Rennie, a Scottish engineer, begun in 1825 under the superintendence of his sons. Sir John and George Rennie, and completed in 1831. The total outlay, including the cost of the approaches , was about 2,000,000^. The bridge, 928ft. long and 54ft. broad, is borne by five granite arches, of which that in the centre has a span of 152 ft. The lamp-posts on the bridge are cast of the metal of French cannon captured in the Peninsular War. It is estimated that 15,000 vehicles and about 100,000 ped- estrians cross London Bridge daily, a fact which may give the stranger some idea of the prodigious traffic carried on in this part of the city. New-comers should pay a visit to London Bridge on a week- day during business hours to see this busy scene and hear the almost deafening noise of the traffic. Stoppages or 'blocks' in the stream of vehicles , of course , sometimes take place ; but, thanks to the skilful management of the police, such interruptions are seldom of long duration. One of the police regulations is that slow-moving vehicles travel at the sides, and quick ones in the middle. London Bridge divides London into 'above' and 'below' bridge. Looking down the river we survey the Porf of London, the part immediately below the bridge being called the Pool. To this portion of the river sea-going vessels of the largest size have access. On the right and left, as far as the eye can penetrate the smoky atmosphere, are seen forests of masts ; while high above and behind the houses on both banks rises the rigging of large vessels in the various docks. Above bridge the traffic is carried on chiefly by penny steamboats and coal barges. Among the buildings visible from the bridge are, on the N. side of the river, the Tower, Billingsgate Market, the Custom House, the Monument, St. Paul's, a great number of other churches, and the Cannon Street Station, while on the Surrey side lie St. Saviour's Church, Barclay and Perkins's Brewery, and the ex- tensive double station of the South Eastern and Brighton Railways. An admirable survey of the traffic on the bridge as well as on the river is obtained from The Monument (PI. R, 43; ///), in Fish Street Hill , a little to the N. This consists of a fluted column, 202 ft. in height, designed by Wren, and erected in 1671-77 in com- 6. FISHMONGERS' HALL. 113 memoration of the Great Fire of London, whicli, on 2-7th Sept., 1666, destroyed 460 streets with 89 churches and 13,200 houses, valued at 7,335,000?. The height of the column is said to equal its distance from the house in Pudding Lane in which the fire broke out. A winding staircase of 345 steps [adm. 3d.) ascends the column to a platform enclosed by an iron cage (added to put a stop to sui- cides from the monument), above which rises a gilt urn with blaz- ing flames, 42 ft. in height. The pedestal bears inscriptions and allegorical reliefs. The City and South London Electric Railway passes under the Thames just above London Bridge by means of two separate tunnels for the 'up' and 'down' traffic. This underground electric railway, 81/4 miles in length, runs from the City Terminus close to the Monument (PI. R, 43; ///) to Stockwell (PI. G, 32), with intermediate stations at the Borough^ Elephant and Castle^ Ntw Street (Kennington), and Kennington Oval, all on the Sur- rey side of the river. The entire journey is performed in 1/4 lir., by trains running every 5 minutes, a uniform fare of 2d. for any distance being paid on entering the stations. At each station powerful hydraulic lifts convey the passengers between the streets and the platforms, while there are also broad and convenient staircases. This, the first electric railway in London, was opened for traffic in Nov. 1890. having taken about four years to construct. The total cost was 200,0003. per mile. An extension to Clapham Common and Wandsworth is proposed. Immediately to the W. of London Bridge , at the lower end of Upper Thames Street, stands Fishmongers' Hall, a guild-house erected in 1831 on the site of an older building. The Company of Fishmongers existed as early as the time of Edward L It originally consisted of two separate trades , that of the Salt- Fishmongers and that of the Stock- Fishmongers, which were united to form tlie pre- sent body in the reign of Henry VIII. The guild is one of the richest in London , possessing an annual revenue of 20, OOOi. In politics it has usually been distinctively attached to the Whig party, while the Merchant Taylors are recognised as the great Tory com- pany. On the landing of the staircase is a statue of Lord Mayor Walworth (a member of the company) , who slew the rebel Wat Tyler (p. 97). Among the objects of interest in the interior are the dagger with which that rebel was slain ; a richly embroidered pall used at Walworth's funeral ; a chair made out of part of the first pile driven in the construction of Old London Bridge, supposed to have been submerged in the Thames for 650 years ; portraits of William III. and his queen by Murray, George II. and his consort by Shackleton, and Queen Victoria by Herbert Smith. Lower Thames Street runs eastwards from London Bridge to the Custom House and the Tower. Chaucer, the 'father of English poetry', is said to have lived here in 1379-85. Close to the bridge, on the right, stands the handsome church of St. Magnus the Mar- tyr, with a cupola and low spire, built by Wren in 1676. It con- tains the tomb of Miles Coverdale, Bishop of Exeter, author of the first complete printed English version of the Bible (1535). ■ Farther to the E. , on the Thames , is Billingsgate (so called Baedeker, London. 9th Edit. g 114 6. CUSTOMHOUSE. from a gate of old London, named, as tradition says, after Belin, a king of the Britons), the ohief fish-market of London, the bad lan- guage used at which has become proverbial. In the reign of Eliza- beth this was a market for all kinds of provisions, but since the reign of William III. it has been used for fish only. Fish has been landed and sold here from time immemorial, though now a considerable part of the fish-supply of London comes by railway. In the reign of Edward I. the prices of fish were as follows: soles, per doz., 3d. ; oysters, per gallon, 2d. ; four whitings Id. ; four best salmon 5s. ; eels, per quarter of a hundred, 2d. ; and so on. The best fish is bought at the beginning of the market by the regular fishmongers. After them come the costermongers, who are said to sell a third of the fish consumed in London. Billingsgate wharf is the oldest on the Thames. The present market, with a figure of Britannia on the apex of the pediment, was designed by Sir Horace Jones, and opened in July, 1877. The market begins daily at 5 a.m., and is one of the sights of London (see p. 25). Adjacent to the fish-market is the Custom House, built by Laing in 1814-17, with an imposing facade towards the Thames, 490 ft. in length, i)y SirR. Smirke. The customs-dues levied at the port of London amount to above 10,000,000?. a year, exceeding those of all the other British sea-ports put together. The London Custom House employs more than 2000 officials; in the Long Room (190 ft. in length by 66 in breadth) no fewer than 80 clerks are at work. Confiscated articles are stored in a warehouse reserved for this purpose, and are disposed of at quarterly sales by auction, which take place in Mark Lane, and yield 5000?. per annum. Attached to the Custom House is a Museum containing curious contrivances for smuggling , etc. Between the Custom House and the Thames is a broad quay, which affords a fine view of the river and shipping. The Coal Exchange, opposite the W. wing of the Custom House, erected in 1849 from plans by Running, is in the Italian style, and has a tower 106 ft. in height. Adjoining it on the E. is a hypo- caust, or stove of masonry belonging to a Roman bath , discovered when the foundations were being dug (shown on application to one of the attendants). The circular hall , with glass dome and triple gallery, is adorned with frescoes by F. Sang, representing the formation of coal and process of mining. The flooring is in- laid with 40,000 pieces of wood, arranged in the form of a mariner's compass. The sword in the municipal coat-of-arms is said to be formed of the wood of a mulberry-tree planted by Peter the Great in 1698, when he was learning the art of ship-building at Deptford. — The amount of coal annually consumed in London alone at present averages upwards of 6,000,000 tons (comp. p. 70). Lower Thames Street debouches at its E. end upon Tower Hill (p. 127). — The Tower, see p. 120. 115 7. Thames Embankment. Blackfriars Bridge. Queen Victoria Street. Cannon Street. Cleopatra's Needle. Times' Publishing Office. Bible Society. Heralds^ College. London Stone. Southwark Bridge. The *Victoria Embankment, wliicli leads from Westminster Bridge (PL R, 29; IV) towards the E. along the N. hank of the Thames as far as Blackfriars Bridge (PL R, 35 ; //), offers a pleasant approach to the City and the Tower to those who have already ex- plored the Strand and Fleet Street. The embankment was con- structed in 1864-70, under the supervision of Sir Joseph W. Ba- zalgette , chief engineer of the late Metropolitan Board of Works (p. 70), at a cost of nearly 2,000,000L It is about 2300 yds. in length , and consists of a macadamised carriage-way 64 ft. wide, with a foot pavement 16 ft. broad on the land-side, and one 20 ft. broad on the river-side. The whole of this area was once covered by the tide twice a day. It is protected on the side next the Thames by a granite wall, 8 ft. thick, for which a foundation was made by sinking iron cylinders into the river-bed as deeply as possible and filling them with concrete. Under the Embankment run three different tunnels. On the inland side is one traversed by the Metro- politan District Railway, while on the Thames side there are two, one above the other, the lower containing one of the principal in- tercepting sewers (p. 70), and the upper one holding water and gas pipes and telegraph wires. Rows of trees have been planted along the sides of the Embankment, which in a few years will afford a shady promenade. At intervals are large openings, with stairs lead- ing to the floating steamboat piers (p. 38), which are constructed of iron, and rise and fall with the tide. Part of the land reclaimed rom the river has been converted into tastefulf gardens. The principal approaches to the Victoria Embankment are from Blackfriars Bridge and Westminster Bridge (p. 199), from Charing Cross (p. 151), and from Arundel, Norfolk, Surrey, and Yilliers Streets, all leading off the Strand. Beginning at Westminster Bridge (p. 199) we see St. Stephens Club to the left, and a little farther on pass New Scotland Yard (p. 191) and Montague House (p. 191 ). Immediately above Charing Cross Bridge rises a lofty block of buildings containing the National Liberal Club (p. 74). The public gardens in front of these are embellished with bronze statues of General Outram , Sir. Bartle FrerCj and William Tyndale, the translator of the New Testament. Below the bridge is another public garden, with statues of Robert Raikes, the founder of Sunday schools, and Robert Burns, and with a memorial fountain bearing a bronze medallion of Henry Fawcett, M. P. The ancient level of the river is indicated by the beautiful old '* Watergate of York House (p. 145), a palace begun by Inigo 116 7. CLEOPATRA'S NEEDLE. Jones tor the first Duke of Buckiugliam (in the N.W, corner of this garden). Above is the Adelphi Terrace (p. 148). On the right of the Embankment, by the Adelphi Steps, rises Cleopatra's Needle (PI. R, 30; II), an Egyptian obelisk erected here in 1878. This famous obelisk was presented t(j the English Government by Mo- hammed Ali, and brought to this country by the private munificence of Dr. Erasmus Wilson, who gave 10,000i. for this purpose. Properly speaking Cleopatra's Needle is the name of the companion obelisk now in New York, which stood erect at Alexandria till its removal, while the one now in London lay prostrate for many years. Both monoliths were originally brought from Heliopolis, which, as we are informed by the Flaminian Obelisk at Rome, was full of obelisks. The inscription on the London obelisk refers to Heliopolis as the 'house of the Phoenix". The obelisk, which is of reddish granite, measures 68V2 ft. in height, and is 8 ft. wide at the base. Its weight is 180 tons. The Obelisk of Luxor at Paris is 76 ft. in height, and weighs 240 tons. The pedestal of grey granite is IS^/s ft. high, including the steps. The inscriptions on it are as follows. E. Face. 'This obelisk, quarried at Syene, was erected at On (Heliopolis) by the Pharaoh Thothmes III., about 1500 B.C. Lateral inscriptions were added nearly tv?o centuries later by Rameses the Great. Pi,emoved during the Greek dynasty to Alexandria, the royal city of Cleopatra, it was there erected in the 8th year of Augustus CiBsar, B.C. 23\ — W. Face. 'This obelisk, prostrate for centuries on the sands of Alexandria, was presented to the British nation A. D. 1819 by Mohammed Ali, Viceroy of Egypt: a worthy memorial of our distin- guished countrymen, Nelson and Abercromby". — N. Face. 'Through the patriotic zeal of Erasmus Wilson, F. R. S., this obelisk was brought from Alexandria encased in an iron cylinder. It was abandoned during a storm in the Bay of Biscay, recovered, and erected on this spot by John Dixon C.E., in the 42nd year of the reign of Queen Victoria , 187S\ — River Face, added at the suggestion of the Queen. 'William Asken, James Gardiner, Joseph Benbow, Michael Burns, William Donald, William Patan, per- ished in a bold attempt to succour the crew of the obelisk ship 'Cleo- patra"' during the storm, October 14th, 1877'. Two large bronze Sphinxes^ designed by Mr. G. Vulliamy, have been placed at the base of the Needle. Above Waterloo Bridge, at the back of the Savoy (p. 148), are the Savoy Hotel, and the Medical Examination Hall. The latter, a building of red brick and Portland stone in the Italian style, erected in 1886, contains a statue of the Queen by Williamson, un- veiled in 1889. Belovp the bridge are the river-facade and terrace of Somerset House (p. 146). Farther on, near the Temple Station, is a statue of Isambard Brunei; and in the adjoining gardens are statues of W. E. Forster, erected in 1890, and of John Stuart Mill, erected in 1878. Behind Forster's statue is the tasteful Office of the London School Board, the weekly meetings of which are held here on Thursday at 3 p.m. (public admitted to the gallery; p. 70). Then follows the Temple (p. 141), with its modern Gothic Library and its Gardens. Farther to the E. is the new Gothic building of Sion College and Library (see p. 16), opened in 1886. At the E. end of the Embankment, separated from Blackfriars Bridge by the Royal Hotel (p. 7), is the handsome new City of London School, completed in 1883. To the N., in Tudor Street, is the Guildhall School of Music, a building in the Italian style, erected by the Corporation of London in 1886 at a cost of 12,0001. 7. BLACKFRIARS BRIDGE. 117 Tlie Albert Em&anfemmf (PI. G, 29, R,29 ; IV), completedin 1869, extending along the right bank of the Thames from Westminster Bridge to Vauxhall Bridge, a distance of about */^ of a mile, has a roadway 60ft. in breadth, and cost above 1,000, OOOi. Adja- cent to it rises the new Hospital of St. Thomas (p. 310). — The Chelsea Embankment , on the left bank, between the Albert Sus- pension Bridge and Chelsea Hospital (p. 304), was opened in 1873. Blackfriars Bridge (PL R, 34, 35 ; //), an iron structure, built by Cubitt, and opened in 1869, occupies the site of a stone bridge dating from 1769, the piers of which had given way. The bridge, which consists of five arches (the central having a span of 185 ft.) supported by granite piers, is 1272ft. in length, including the abutments, and 80 ft. broad. The cost of construction amounted to 320,000/. The dome of St. Paul's is seen to the greatest advantage from this bridge, which also commands an excellent view otherwise. Just below Blackfriars Bridge the Thames is crossed by the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway Bridge. On the right bank of the river is the spacious Blackfriars Bridge Station. The bridge derives its name from an ancient Monastery of the Black Friars, situated on the bank of the river, and dating from 1276, where several parliaments once met, and where Cardinals Wolsey and Cam- peggio pronounced sentence of divorce against the unfortunate Queen Catharine of Aragon in 1529 ('King Henry VIII.' ii. 4). Shakspeare once lived at Blackfriars, and in 1599 acted at a theatre which formerly occupied part of the site of the monastery, and of which the name Playhouse Yard is still a reminiscence. In 1607 Ben .Tonson v?as also a resident here. In New Bridge Street, which leads straight to the N. from Black- friars Bridge, immediately to the right, is the Blackfriars Station of the Metropolitan District Railway (p. 37) ; and farther on, beyond Queen Victoria Street (see below), is the large Ludgate Hill Station of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway (p. 34), opposite which, on the left, the prison of Bridewell (so called from the old 'miraculous' Well of St. Bride or St. Bridget) stood down to 1864. The site of the prison was once occupied by Bridewell Palace , in which Shakspeare lays the 3rd Act of his 'Henry VIII.' New Bridge Street ends at Ludgate Circus, at the E. end of Fleet Street (p. 137), the prolongation to the N. being called Farringdon Street (see p. 94). To the E., opposite Fleet Street, diverges Lud- gate Hill, leading to St. Paul's Cathedral, and passing under the viaduct of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway (p. 34). Queen Victoria Street, a broad and handsome thoroughfare, leads straight from Blackfriars Bridge, towards the E., to the Mansion House and the Bank. To the right, at its W. end, is the large St. Paul's Station of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway. In Water Lane, to the left, stands Apothecaries' Hall, built in 1670, and containing portraits of James I., Charles I., and others. The company, most of whose members really are what the name im- 118 7. OFFICE OF THE TIMES. plies, grants licenses to dispense medicines and to give medical advice ; and pure drugs are prepared in tlie chemical laboratories at the back of the Hall. On the left side of Queen Victoria Street, farther on, is the Office of the Times (PL R, 35; /i), a handsome building of red brick. The tympanum bears an allegorical device with allusions to times past and future. Behind the Publishing Office, in Printing House Square, is the interesting Printing Office. Tickets of admission are issued on written application to the Manager, enclosing a note of introduction or reference. Visitors should be careful to attend at the hour named in the order, when the second edition of the paper is being printed. No fewer than 20,000 copies can be struck off in an hour by the wonderful mechanism of the Walter press, and perhaps 50,000 are issued daily. The continuous rolls or webs of paper, with which the machine feeds itself, are each 4 miles in length, and of these 28 to 30 are used in one day. The finished and folded copies of the Times are thrown out at the other end of the machine. The type- setting machines are also of great interest. The official who con- ducts visitors round the works explains all the details (no gra- tuity). The Times celebrated its centenary in 1884. Printing House Square stands on a corner of old London which for many ages was occupied by frowning Norman fortresses. Part of the castle of Montfltchet, a follower of the Conqueror, is said to have stood here ; and the ground between the S. side of Queen Victoria Street , or Earl Street , and the Thames was the site of Baynard's Castle (mentioned in 'Richard III'.) with its extensive precincts, which replaced an earlier Roman fortress, and probably a British work of defence. Baynard's Castle was presented by Queen Elizabeth to the Earls of Pembroke, and continued to be their resi- dence till its destruction in the Great Firet. Farther on in Queen Victoria Street is the church of St. Ann Blackfriars, adjacent to which, on the E., rises the large building occupied by the British and Foreign Bible Society, erected in 1868. The number of Bibles and Testaments issued by this im- portant society now amounts to about four millions a year, printed in 320 different languages and dialects. The total number of copies issued since its foundation in 1804, is nearly 140,000,000. The annual income of the society from subscriptions and the sale of Bibles is over 230,000f. Visitors (daily, except Sat. and Mon.) are shown the library containing an extensive and probably unique collection of Bibles in different languages. The board-room con- tains a portrait of Lord Shaftesbury, by Millais ; and on the stair- case is a large painting by E. M. Ward.- Luther's first study of + This is the ordinary account, but it is disputed by Mr. Loftie, who maintains that the later house known as Baynard's Castle did not occupy the site of the original fortress of that name. See his 'London' (in the 'Historic Towns Series'; 1887). 7. HERALDS' COLLEGE. 119 the Bible. — Farther E., on the same side of the street, arc the large buildings of the Savings Bank Department of the Post Office. To the N., beyond Knlghtrider Street, lies Doctors^ Commons, where marriage licences are still issued at No. 5 Dean's Court. The Doctors'' Commons Will Office was removed in 1874 from St, BenneVs Hill to Somerset House, in the Strand (see p. 146). To the left, farther on in Queen Victoria Street, is Heralds' Col- lege, or the College of Arms (rebuilt in 1683), formerly the town house of the Earls of Derby. The library contains a number of inter- esting objects, including a sword, dagger, and ring belonging to JamesIV. of Scotland, who fell at Flodden in 1513 ; the Warwick roll, a series of portraits of the Earls of Warwick from the Conquest to the time of Richard III. (executed by jRoms at the end of the 15th cent.) ; genealogy of the Saxon kings, from Adam, more curious than trust- worthy, illustrated with drawings of the time of Henry VIII. ; por- trait of the celebrated Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, from his tomb in old St. Paul's. The college also contains a valuable treasury of genealogical records. The office of Earl-Marshal, president of Heralds'" College, is hereditary in the person of the Duke of Norfolk. The college consists of three klngs-at-arms, Garter, Clarencieux, and Norroy — six heralds, Lancaster, Somerset, Richmond, York, Windsor, and Chester — and four pursuivants. Rouge Croix , Blue Mantle , Portcullis , and Rouge Dragon. The main object of the corporation is to make out and preserve the pedigrees and armorial bearings of noble and great families. It grants arms to fami- lies recently risen to position and distinction , and determines doubtful questions respecting the derivation and value of arms. Fees for a new coat-of-arms lOZ. 10s. or more; for searching the records il. A little farther on. Queen Victoria Street intersects Cannon Stbbet, which is the most direct route between St. Paul's Church- yard and London Bridge, and Queen Street (p. 101) , leading from Cheapside to Southwark Bridge (p. 120). Cannon Street, which is 2/3 M. long, was constructed at a cost of 589,470^., and opened in 1854. This street contains the Cannon Street (p. 37) and Mansion House (p. 37) stations of the Metropolitan District Railway, and also the extensive Cannon Street Station, the City Terminus of the South Eastern Railway (p. 33 ; hotel, see p. 6). Opposite the last stands the church of St. Swithin, popularly regarded as the saint of the weather, into the wall of which is built the London Stone, an old Roman milestone, supposed to have been the milliarium of the Roman forum in London, from which the distances along the various British high-roads were reckoned. Against this stone, which is now protected by an iron grating. Jack Cade once struck his staff, exclaiming 'Now is Mortimer lord of the city'. In St. Swithin's Lane stands the large range of premises known as 'iVeio Court', occupied by Messrs. Rothschild. — Close by is Salters' Hall, and near it was Salters' Hall Chapel , begun by the ejected minister Richard Mayo in 1667, and long celebrated for its preachers and theological disputations. — Down to 1853 the Steel Yard, at one 120 7. SOUTHW ARK BRIDGE. time a factory or store-honse of the Hanseatic League, estaWislied in 1250, stood on the site now occupied by the Cannon Street Ter- minus. — Adjacent to the station, on the W., is Dowgate Hill, with ihQ Hall of the Skinners, who were incorporated in 1327. The court (with its wooden porch) and interior were built soon after the Fire ; the staircase and the wainscoted 'Cedar Room' are interesting. Cannon Street ends at the Monument, beyond which it is con- tinued by Eastcheop and Great Tower Street to Tower Hill (p. 127). Sonthwark Bridge (PL R, 38 ; 7//), erected by John Rennie in 1815-19, at a cost of 800,000i. , is 700 ft. long, and consists of three iron arches , borne by stone piers. The span of the central arch is 240 ft., that of the side ones 210 ft. The traffic is compar- atively small on account of the inconvenience of the approaches, but has of late greatly increased. In Southwark, on the S. bank, lies Barclay and Perkinses Brewery (p. 308). The river farther down is crossed by the imposing five-arched railway bridge of the South Eastern Railway (terminus at Cannon Street Station, p. 119). 8. The Tower. Trinity House. Tower Subway. Royal Mint. Tower Bridge. The Tower (PL R, 46; 1/7), the ancient fortress and gloomy state-prison of London, and historically the most interesting spot in England, is an irregular mass of buildings erected at various per- iods, surrounded by a battlemented wall and a deep moat, which was drained in 1843. It stands on the bank of the Thames, to the E. of the City, and outside the bounds of the ancient city-walls. The present external appearance of the Tower is very unlike what it originally was , perhaps no fortress of the same age having undergone greater transformations. It is possible , though very doubtful, that a fortification of some kind stood here in Roman times , but the Tower of London properly originated with William the Conqueror (see p. 64). Though at first a royal palace and stronghold, the Tower is best known in history as a prison. It is now a government arsenal, and is still kept in repair as a fortress. The ground-plan is in the form of an irregular pentagon, which covers an area of 18 acres, and is enclosed by a double line of cir- cumvallation (the outer and inner ballium or ward'), strengthened with towers. The square "White Tower rises conspicuously in the centre. A broad quay lies between the moat and the Thames. The Tower is conveniently reached by the Underground Railway to Mark Lane Station (PI. R, 42; III). The Tower (adm. , see p. 78) is provided with four entrances, viz. the Iron Gate, the Water Gate, and the Traitors' Gate, all on the side next the Thames; and on the W., the principal entrance, or Lions' Gate, so called from the royal menagerie formerly kept 8. THE TOWER. 12t here. (The lions -were removed to tlie Zoological Gardens in Re- gent's Park in 1834.) To the right is the Ticket Office, where tickets are procured for the Armoury (6d.) and the Crown Jewels (6c?.)- Free days should he avoided on account of the crowd. Really interested visitors may sometimes obtain an order from the Constable of the Tower admitting them to parts not shown to the general public. The quaintly-attired Warders or Beef-eaters, offi- cially designated Yeomen of the Guard, who are stationed at diffe- rent parts of the building, are all old soldiers of meritorious serv- ice. The term Beef-eater is commonly explained as a corruption of Buffetiers , or attendants at the royal Buffet, but is more pro- bably a nickname bestowed upon the ancient Yeomen of the Guard from the fact that rations of beef were regularly served out to them when on duty. The names of the different towers, gates, etc., are now indicated by placards, and the most interesting objects in the armouries also bear inscriptions. The Guides to the Tower [id. and 6t/.; both by W. J. Loftie) are almost unnecessary, except to those who take a special interest in old armour. To the left of the entrance, opposite the Ticket Office, is a Turkish cannon, presented by Sultan Abdul Medjed Khan in 1857. A stone bridge , flanked by two towers ( Middle Tower and By- ward Tower), leads across the moat (which can still be flooded by the garrison) into the Outer Bail or anterior court. On the left is the Bell Tower (PI. 4), adjacent to which is a narrow passage, leading round the fortifications within the outer wall. Farther on, to the right, is the Traitors' Gate (PI. 6), a double gateway on the Thames, by which state-prisoners were formerly admitted to the Tow- er; above it is St. Thomas's Tower (PI. 5). A gateway opposite leads under the Bloody Tower (p. 125) to the Inner Bail. In the centre of this court, upon slightly rising ground, stands the square * White Tower, ox Keep, the most ancient part of the fortress, erected by William the Conqueror in 1078, on a site previously occupied by two bastions built by King Alfred in 885 (perhaps on a Roman foundation; comp. p. 120). It measures 116ft. from N. to S. and 96 ft. from E. to W. , and is 92ft. high. The walls are 13-15 ft. thicks, and are surmounted with turrets at the angles. The armoury and military stores to the S. were removed in 1882-3 , so as to leave an unimpeded view of this ancient keep. Among the many important scenes enacted in this tower may be mentioned the abdication of Richard II. in favour of Henry of Bolingbroke in 1399 ; and it was here that Prince James of Scotland was imprisoned in 1405. We first ascend a staircase passing through the wall of the White Tower (15 ft. thick). It was under this staircase that the bones of the two young princes murdered by their uncle Richard III. (see p. 125) were found. On the first floor are two apartments, said to have been those in which Sir Walter Raleigh was confined and wrote his His- tory of the World (1605-17 ; closed). The *C/iaj3ei of St. John, on the 122 8. THE TOWER. M t H « 3 **01 1V3H0 iiiii i. / / A^\\%isj^\jr;^"vV^^kk'vvvj iffifiiiiilli f h^^'^- 8. THE TOWER. 123 second floor, with its massive pillars and cubical capitals, its -wide triforium, its apse borne by stilted round arches (somewhat re- sembling those of St. Bartholomew's, p. 96), and its barrel-vaulted ceiling, is one of the finest and best-preserved specimens of Nor- man architecture in England. On the same floor are the Banquet- ing' Hall, and another room, both containing part of the collection of arms and armour (see below). On the upper floor is the Council Chamber, in which the abdication of Richard II. took place. The *CoLLBCTioN OF Old Armour, formerly in the so-called Horse Armoury, and now in the two upper floors of the White Tower, though not equal to the best Continental collections of the kind, is yet of great value and interest. The main portion of the collection is in the Council Chamber, including a series of equestrian figures in full equipment, as well as numerous figures on foot, aifording a faithful picture, in approximately chronological order, of English war-array from the time of Edward I. (1272) down to that of James II. (1688). In the Norman period armour consisted either of leather, cut into small pieces like the scales of a fish , or of flat rings of steel sewn on to leather. Chain mail was introduced from the East in the time of Henry III. (1216-1272). Plates for the arms and legs were introduced in the reign of Edward II. (1307-1327), and com- plete suits of plate armour came into use under Henry V. (1413-22). The glass-oases contain various smaller objects of interest. Among the chief objects in the Council Chamber and the smaller room to the E. of it are the following: — Equestrian figure of Queen Elizabeth. Suit of armour (shirt ofmailj, dating from the time of Edward I. (1272-1307). Suit of the time of Henry VI. (1422-61). Tournament suit of the time of Edward IV. (1461-83). Knight's suit of the time of Richard III. (1483-85), worn by the Marquis of Waterford at the Eglinton Tournament in 1839. Suit of Burgundian armour, Henry VII. (1485-1509) j adjacent a second suit of the same period. Suit of richly damascened armour, worn by Henry VIII. (1509-47). Suit worn by Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk (1520). Suit of Edward Clinton, Earl of Lincoln (1535). Brown suit, with the arms of Burgundy and Granada, Edward VI. (1547-53). Suit of heavy armour of the time of Queen Mary, said to have belonged to Francis Hastings , Earl of Huntingdon (1555). Suit actually worn by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester (1580), the favourite of Queen Elizabeth ; the armour bears his initials and crest. — Magnificent suit, of German workmanship, said to have been presented by the Emperor Maximilian to Henry VIII. on his marriage with Catharine of Aragon. Among the numerous ornaments inlaid in gold, the rose and pomegranate, the badges of Henry and Catharine, are of frequent recurrence ; the other cognisances of Henry, the portcullis, fleur-de-lys, and dragon, and the initials of the royal pair connected by a true-lover's knot, also appear. On the armour of the horse are engraved scenes of martyrdom. Adjacent is a helmet with ram's horns and a mask, also presented by Maximiliaii to Henry VIII. — Suit of Sir Henry Lee , Master of the Armouries to Queen Elizabeth (1570). Suit of Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, worn by the King's champion at the coronation of George I. Tournament suit, James 1. (1605). Plain suit of armour of the same period. Suit of armour worn by Charles I. Suit, richly inlaid with gold, belonging to Henry, Prince of Wales (1612), eldest son of James I. Beside it, Charles I., as Prince of Wales, on foot, with a page bearing the chanfron or head-piece of the horse-armour. Full suit of plate armour, dating from the first half of the 17th century. Fine suit of Italian armour, said to have belonged to Count Oddi of 124 8. THE TOWER. Padua (1650 ; unmounted figure). Suit of bright armour, studded with brass. Pikemen of the 17th century. Suit of George Monk, Duke of Albemarle (1669). Suit of knight of the time of Charles I. Mounted figure with slight suit of armour that belonged to James II. (1685), after whose time armour was rarely worn. Interspersed among the equestrian figures are numerous weapons of the periods illustrated by the suits of armour; weapons used by the rebels at Sedgemoor; assegais from CafFraria; two drums taken at Blenheim; execution-axe of the Kingof Oude; arbalest or crossbow ; ancient matchlocks and fowling-pieces, some of them breech-loaders; Chinese arms; chain-mail of the Norman period; arms and armour from China, Persia, Japan, and Africa ; the block on which Lord Lovat, the last person beheaded in Eng- land, suffered the penalty of high treason on Tower Hill in 1747 ; a head- ing-axe, said to be that by which the Earl of Essex was decapitated. The glass-cases contain Etruscan, Roman, British, Anglo-Saxon, and otiier arms and armour; a complete suit of ancient Greek armour, dis- covered in a tomb at Cumse; a spear-head found on the plain of Marathon; a very interesting collection of old weapons, ancient and Norman helmets, early fire-arms, etc.; two English long-bows of yew, reco"ered in 184(3 from the wreck of the 'Mary Rose', after having been submerged for almost 300 years; Indian battle-axes, guns, and accoutrements; scimitar with jade hilt; sword with hilt of lapis lazuli; a bit of leather scale-armour; re- volvers of the 16-17th cent., with beautifully inlaid stocks; Asiatic suits of armour; sword, helmet, and saddle of Tippo Sahib, Sultan of Mysore, captured at Seringapatam in 1799; helmet brought from Otaheite bv Capt. Cook in 1774. The contents of the two rooms on the second floor include the uniform worn by the Duke of Wellington as Constable of the Tower; the cloak on which General Wolfe died before Quebec in 1759; models of the Tower; arms in use by various foreign nations about 1840; two chased brass guns made for the Duke of Gloucester, son of Queen Anne, \a ho died in 1700 at the age of eleven; a copy of the shield at Windsor ascribed to Cellini; part of the pump of the 'Mary Rose', sunk in 1545; guns from the 'Mary Rose"; a collection of instruments of torture; Indian arms and armour. The walls and ceilings are adorned with trophies of ;irms, skilfully arranged in the form of stars, flowers, coats-of-arms, and the like. At the foot of the staircase by which we leave the White Tower are some fragments of the old State Barge of the Master-General of the Ord- nance (broken up in 1859), with the arms of the Duke of Marlborough and other decorations in carved and gilded oak. Outside the White Tower is an interesting collection of old cannon, someof very heavy calibre, chiefly ofthe time of Henry VIII., but one going back to the reign of Henry VI. (1422-61). The large modern buildings to the N. of the White Tower are the Wellington or Waterloo Barracks, erected in 1845 on the site of the Grand Storehouse and Small Armoury, which had been de- stroyed by fire in 1841. The armoury at the time of the confla- gration contained 150,000 stand of arms. The Ckown Jewels, or Regalia, formerly kept in the building erected in 1842 at the N.E. corner of the fortress, are now in the Record or Wakefield Tower (see p. 125). During the confusion that prevailed after the execution of Charles I. the royal ornaments and part of the Kegalia, including the ancient crown of King Edward, were sold. The crowns and jewels made to replace these after the Restoration retain the ancient names. The Regalia now consist of the following articles, which are preserved in a glass-case, protected by a strong iron cage : — 8. THE TOWER. 125 St. Edward's Crown, executed for the coronation of Charles II., and used at all subsequent coronations. This was the crown stolen in 1671 by Col. Blood and his accomplices, who overpowered and gagged the keeper. The bold robbers, however, did not succeed in escaping with their booty. Queen Victorians Crown , made in 1838 , a masterpiece of the modern goldsmith's art. It is adorned with no fewer than 2783 dia- monds -, the uncut ruby ('spiner) in front, said to have been given to the Black Prince in 1367 by Don Pedro of Castile, was worn by Henry V. on his helmet at the battle of Agincourt. It also contains a large sapphire. The Prince of Wales''s Crown, of pure gold, without precious stones. The Queen Consorfs Croicn., of gold, set with jewels. The Queen'^s Crown, a golden circlet, embellished with diamonds and pearls, made for Queen Maria d'Este, wife of James II. St. Edward's Staff, made of gold, 41/2 ft. long and about 90 lbs. in weight. The orb at the top is said to contain a piece of the true cross. The Royal Sceptre with the Cross, 2ft. 9in. long, richly adorned with precious stones. The Sceptre of the Dove, or Rod of Equity. Above the orb is a dove with outspread wings. Queen Victo- rians Sceptre, with richly gemmed cross. The Ivory Sceptre of Queen Maria d'Este, surmounted by a dove of white onyx. The Sceptre of Queen Mary, wife of William III. The Orhs of the King and Queen. Model of the Koh-i-Noor (Mountain of Light), one of the largest diamonds known, weighing 162 carats. The original, now at Windsor Castle, was formerly in the possession of Runjeet Singh, Rajah of Lahore, and came into the hands of the English in 1849, on their conquest of the Punjab. The Curtana, or pointless Sword of Mercy. The Swords of Justice. The Coro- nation Bracelets. The Royal Spurs. The Coronation Oil Vessel or Ampulla, in the form of an eagle. The Spoon belonging to the ampulla, thought to be the only relic of the ancient regalia. The Salt Cellar of State, in the form of a model of the White Tower. The silver Baptismal Font for the roj'al children. A silver Wine Fountain given by the Corporation of PljTnouth to Charles II. Gold Basin used in the distribution of the Queen's alms on Maundy Thursday. The cases at the side contain the insignia of the Orders of the Bath, Garter, Thistle, St. Michael and St. George, and Star of India; also the Victoria Cross. The total value of the Regalia is estimated at 3,000,000?. The twelve Towers of the Inner Ward, at one time all used as prisons, were afterwards employed in part for the custody of the state archives. The names of several of them are indissolubly as- sociated with many dark and painful memories. In the Bloody Tower (PI. 7) the sons of Edward IV. are said to have been murdered, by order of Richard III. (comp. pp. 121, 217); in the Bell Tower (PI. 4) the Princess Elizabeth was confined by her sister Queen Mary ; Lady Jane Grey is said to have been imprisoned in Brick Tower (PI. 12); Lord Guildford Dudley, husband of Lady Jane Grey, was confined , witli his father and brothers , in Beauchamp Tower ij\. 8); in the Bowyer Tower (PI. 11), the Duke of Cla- rence, brother of Edward IV., is popularly supposed to have been drowned in a butt of malmsey; and Henry VI. was commonly be- lieved to have been murdered in Record (Wakefield) Tower (PL 16), The Salt Tower (PI. 15) contains a curious drawing of the zodiac, by Hugh Draper of Bristol , who was confined here in 1561 on a charge of sorcery. — The Beauchamp Tower, built in 1199-1216, consists of two stories , which are reached by a narrow winding staircase. The walls of the room on the first floor are covered with inscriptions by former prisoners , including those of the Dudley 126 8. THE TOWER. family. That of John Dudley, Earl of "Warwick , eldest brother of Lord Guildford Dudley, is on the right side of the fire-place , and is a well executed family coat-of-arms with the following lines : — 'Yow that these beasts do wel behold and se, May deme with ease wherefore here made they be Withe borders wherein 4 brothers' names who list to serche the grovnd". Near the recess in the N.W. corner is the word Ianb (repeated in the window), supposed to represent the signature of Lady Jane Grey as queen , hut not inscribed by herself. Above the fire-place is a Latin inscription left by Philip Howard, Earl of Arundel, eldest son of the Duke of Norfolk who was beheaded in 1573 for aspiring to the hand of Mary , Queen of Scots. The earliest inscription is that of Thomas Talbot, 1462. The Inscriptions in the upper cham- ber are less interesting. At the N.W. corner of the fortress rises the chapel of St. Peter AD ViNCULA (PI. 17; interior not shown), erected by Edward I. on the site of a still older church, re-erected by Edward III., altered by Henry VIII. , and restored in 1877. Adjoining it is a small burial-ground. 'In truth, there is no sadder spot on earth than this little cemetery. Death is there associated, not, as in Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's, with genius and virtue , with public veneration and with imperishable renown ; not, as in our humblest churches and churchyards, with every- thing that is most endearing in social and domestic charities ; but with whatever is darkest in human nature and in human destiny, with the savage triumph of implacable enemies, with the inconstancy, the ingrat- itude, the cowardice of friends, with all the miseries of fallen greatness and of blighted fame'. — Macaulay. The following celebrated persons are buried in this chapel : Sir Thomas More, beheaded 1535 ; Queen Anne Boleyn, beheaded 1536; Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, beheaded 1540 ; Margaret Pole, Countess of Salisbury, beheaded 1541 ; Queen Catharine How- ard, beheaded 1542; Lord Admiral Seymour of Sudeley, beheaded 1549; Lord Somerset, the Protector, beheaded 1552; John Dudley, Earl of Warwick and Duke of Northumberland , beheaded 1553 ; Lady Jane Grey and her husband, Lord Guildford Dudley, beheaded 1554; Robert Devereux , Earl of Essex, beheaded 1601; Sir Thomas Overbury, poisoned in the Tower in 1613 ; Sir John Eliot, died as a prisoner in the Tower 1632; James Fitzroy, Duke of Mon- mouth, beheaded 1685 ; Simon, Lord Eraser of Lovat, beheaded 1747. The executions took place in the Tower itself only in the cases of Anne Boleyn, Catharine Howard, the Countess of Salisbury, Lady .lane Grey, and Devereux, Earl of Essex; in all the other in- stances the prisoners were beheaded at the public place of execution oil Tower Hill (see p. 127). The list of those who were confined for a longer or shorter period ill the Tower comprises a great number of other celebrated persons : JohuBaliol, King of Scotland, 1296; William Wallace, the Scottish patriot, 1305 ; David Bruce, King of Scotland, 1347 ; King John of 8. TRINITY HOUSE. 127 France (taken prisoner at Poitiers, 1357) ; Duke of Orleans, father of Louis XII. of France, 1415 ; Lord Cobham , the most distin- guished of the Lollards (burned as a heretic at St. Giles in the Fields, 1416); King Henry VI. (who is said to have been murdered in the Wakefield Tower by the Duke of Gloucester, 1471) ; Anne Askew (tortured in the Tower, and burned in Smithfleld as a heretic, 1546); Archbishop Cranmer , 1553; Sir Thomas Wyatt (beheaded on Tower Hill in 1554) ; Earl of Southampton , Shak- speare's patron, 1562; Sir Walter Raleigh (seep. 123; beheaded at Westminster in 1618); Earl of Strafford (beheaded 1641); Archbishop Laud (beheaded 1643) ; Viscount Stafford (beheaded 1680) ; Lord William Russell (beheaded 1683) ; Lord Chancellor Jeffreys, 1688; Duke of Marlborough, 1692, etc. On Tower Hill, N.W. of the Tower, formerly stood the scaffold for the execution of traitors (see p. 126). William Penn (comp. p. 128), was born, and Otway, the poet, died on Tower Hill, and here too Sir Walter Raleigh's wife lodged while her unfortunate husband languished in the Tower. On the N. side rises Trinity House, a plain building, erected in 1793 from designs by Wyatt, the facade of which is embellished with the arms of the corporation, medallion portraits of George III. and Queen Charlotte, and several emblems of navigation. This building is the property of 'The Master, Wardens, and Assistants of the Guild, Fraternity, or Bro- therhood , of the most glorious and undividable Trinity', a com- pany founded by Sir Thomas Spert in 1515, and incorporated by Henry VIII. in 1529. The society consists of a Master, Deputy Master, 31 Elder Brethren, and an unrestricted number of Younger Brethren , and was founded with a view to the promotion and en- couragement of English navigation. Its rights and duties, which have been defined by various acts of parliament, comprise the regu- lation and management of lighthouses and buoys round the British coast, and the appointment and licensing of a body of efficient pilots. Two elder brethren of Trinity House assist the Admiralty in deciding all cases relating to collisions at sea. Its surplus funds are devoted to charitable objects connected with sailors. The in- terior of Trinity House contains busts of Admirals St. Vincent, Howe, Duncan, and Nelson ; and portraits of James 1. and his con- sort Anne of Denmark, James II., and Sir Francis Drake. There is also a large picture of several Eider Brethren, by Gainsborough, and a small collection of models. The Duke of York, son of the Prince of Wales, is the present Master of Trinity House, while the Prince of Wales himself and Mr. W. E. Gladstone are 'Elder Brethren'. The annual income of Trinity House is said to be above 300,000^. At the end of Great Tower Street, to the W. of the Tower, is the church of All Hallows, Barking, founded by the nuns of Barking Abbey, and containing some fine brasses. Archbishop Laud was 128 8. ROYAL MINT. buried in the graveyard after Ms execution on Tower Hill (1643), but Ms body was afterwards removed to the chapel of St. John's College, Oxford, of which he was an alumnus. The parish register records the baptism of William Penn (Oct. 23rd, 1644). The Czar's Head^ opposite the church, is said to occupy the site of a tavern frequented by Peter the Great (see p. 145). On the S. side of Great Tower Hill is the Tower Subway, a tunnel constructed by Barlow in 1870, passing under the Thames, and leading to Tooley Street (corrupted from St. Olave Street) on the right (Southwark) bank. This gloomy and unpleasant passage consists of an iron tube 400 yds. long and 7 ft. in diameter, originally traversed by a tramway-car, but now used by pedestrians only. A winding staircase of 96 steps descends to it on each side O/^d.). The subway was made in less than a year, at a cost of 20,000i. On the E. side of Tower Hill stands the Royal Mint, erected in 1811, from designs by Johnson and Smirke, on the site of the old Cistercian Abbey of St. Mary of the Graces (see p. 200), and so ex- tensively enlarged in 1881-82 as to be practically a new building. The Mastership of the Mint (an office abolished in 1869) was once held by Sir Isaac Newton (1699-1727) and Sir John F. W. Herschel (^1850-55). Permission to visit the Mint is given for a fixed day by the Deputy-Master of the Mint, on a written application stating the number and addresses of the intending visitors. The various processes of coining are extremely interesting, and the machinery used is of a most ingenious character. In 1882 fourteen improved presses were introduced, each of which can stamp and mill 120 coins per minute. The cases in the waiting-room contain coins and commemorative medals, including specimens of Maundy money, and gold pieces of '21. and bl., never brought into general circulation. Among the other objects of interest is a skeleton cube, each side of which is 333/8 in. in length, showing the size of a mass of stand- ard gold worth l,000,000i. In 1893 the value of the money coined at the Mint was 10,789,523^., including 6,898.260 sovereigns; 4,426,625 half-sovereigns; 497,845 crowns; 1,792,600 half -crowns; 1,666,103 florins; 7,039,074 shillings; 7,350,619 sixpences; 3,076, 269 threepences; 8,161,737 pence; 7,229,344 half-pence; and 3,904,320 farthings; besides Maundy money, value 396^, and colonial money, value 32S,G58i. In 1884-93 there were coined here 39,743,131 sov- ereigns, 27,875,187 half-sovereigns, 20,860,136 half-crowns, 14,556,960 Qorins, 51,127,560 shillings, etc. ; of copper or bronze coins, most of which were made by contract at Bii-mingham , nearly 220,000.(300 were issued. The average "annual value of the coinage issued by the Mint in 1883-92 was 5.746,509^. The average profit of the Mint is about 111,500/. — There are branches of the Mint at Melbourne and Sydney in Australia; and there are mints also at Calcutta and Bombay. Immediately below the Tower the Thames is spanned by the huge *Tower Bridge (PI. R, 46 ; III), begun by the Corporation in 1886 and opened on 30th June 1894. This bridge, designed by Sir Horace Jones and Mr, Wolfe Barry, comprizes a permanent footway, 142ft. above high-water level, reached by means of lifts and stairs in the supporting towers, and a carriage way, 29V2 It. above high- water, the central span of which (200 ft. long) is fitted with twin 9. THE PORT AND DOCKS. 129 bascules or draw-bridges, •which can be raised in IV2 niin. for the passage of large vessels. The bascules and footway are borne by two massive Gothic towers, rising upon huge piers, which are connected with the river-banks by permanent spans (270ft. long), suspended on massive chains hanging between the central towers and smaller castellated towers on shore. The substantial framework of the bridge, including the central towers , which are cased in stone, is of steel. Including the approaches, the bridge is V2 M. long, and has already cost over 1,000,000Z., though the S. approach (to be made by the County Council) is not yet made. 9. The Port and Docks. St. Katherine's Docks. London Docks. Thames Tunnel. Commercial Docks. Regent's Canal. West and East India Docks. Millwall Docks. Victoria and Albert Docks. One of the most interesting sights of London is the Port, with its immense warehouses, the centre from which the commerce of England radiates all over the globe. The Port of London, in the wider sense, extends from London Bridge to a point 6Y2™iles down the river , but as actually occupied by shipping may be said to terminate at Deptford, 4 miles from London Bridge. Immediately below London Bridge begins the Pool (p. 112), which is held to end at Limehouse Reach. Ships bearing the produce of every nation under the sun here discharge their cargoes, which, previous to their sale, are stored, free of customs, in large bonded warehouses mostly in the Docks. Below these warehouses , which form small towns of themselves, and extend in long rows along the banks of the Tha- mes, are extensive cellars for wine, oil, etc., while above ground are huge magazines, landing-stages, packing-yards, cranes, and every kind of apparatus necessary for the loading, unloading, and custody of goods. The docks are not municipal or public property, but are owned by various private joint-stock dock-companies. To theE. of the Tower, and separated from it by a single street, called Little Tower Hill, are St. Katherine's Docks (PL R, 46 ; III), openedin 1828, and covering an area of 24 acres, on which 1250house8 with ll,300inhab. formerly stood. The old St. Katherine's Hospital once stood on this site (comp. p. 241). The engineer was Telford, and the architect Hardwick. The docks admit vessels of 700 tons. The warehouses can hold 110,000 tons of goods. St. Katherine's Docks are now under the same management as the London Docks. St. Katherine's Steamboat Wharf, adjoining the Docks, is mainly used as a landing-stage for steamers from the continent. London Docks (PL R, 50), lying to the E. of St. Katherine's Docks, were constructed in 1805 at a cost of 4,000,000^, and cover an area of 120 acres. They have four gates on the Thames, and contain water- room for 300 large vessels, exclusive of lighters. Their Baedkkbk, London. 9tli Edit. 9 130 9. LONDON DOCKS. warehouses can store 220,000 tons of goods, and their cellars 70,000 pipes (8,316,050 gallons) of wine. The Tobacco Dock and Warehouses (the Queens Warehouse) alone cover an area of 5 acres of ground. At times, particularly when adverse winds drive vessels into the Thames, upwards of 3000 men are employed at these docks in one day. Every morning at 6 o'clock, there may be seen waiting at the principal entrance a large and motley crowd of labourers, to which numerous dusky visages and foreign costumes impart a curious and picturesque air. The capital of the London & St. Katherine's Docks Co. amounts to 13,000,000i. The door in the E. angle of the docks, inscribed To theKiln, leads to a furnace in which adulterated tea and tobacco, spurious gold and silver wares, and other confiscated goods, are burned. The long chimney is jest- ingly called the Queen s Tobacco Pipe. Nothing will convey to the stranger a better idea of the vast activity and stupendous wealth of London than a visit to these warehouses, filled to overflowing with interminable stores of tea, coffee, sugar, silk, tobacco, and other foreign and colonial products ] to these enormous vaults, with their apparently inexhaustible quantities of wine; and to these extensive quays and landing- stages, cumbered with huge stacks of hides, heaps of bales, and long rows of casks of every conceivable description. Permission to visit the warehouses and vaults may be obtained from the secretary of the London Dock Company, at 109 Leaden- hall Street, E.C. Those who wish to taste the wines must procure a tasting-order from a wine-merchant. Ladies are not admitted after 1 p.m. Visitors should be on their guard against the in- sidious effects of 'tasting', in the heavy, vinous atmosphere. St. George Street, to the N. of the docks, was formerly the noto- rious Eatcliff Highway. Swedenborg (1688-1772) is buried in a vault beneath the Swedish Church in Prince's Square (PI. R, 51). To the S. of the London Docks, and about 2 M. below London Bridge, lies the quarter of the metropolis called Wapping^ from which the Thames Tunnel leads under the river to Rotherhithe on the right bank. The tunnel was begun in 1824 , on the plans and under the supervision of Sir Isambard Brunei, and completed in 1843, after several accidents occasioned by the water bursting in upon the works. Seven men lost their lives during its con- struction. It consists of two parallel arched passages of masonry, 14 ft. broad, 16 ft. high, and 1200 ft. long, and cost 468,000^ The undertaking paid the Thames Tunnel Company so badly, that their receipts scarcely defrayed the cost of repairs. The tunnel was purchased in 1865 by the East Loudon Railway Company for 200,000i., and is now traversed daily by about 40 trains (terminus at Liverpool Street Station, p. 32). — A Steam-Ferry (id.) crosses the^Thames between Wapping and Rotherhithe. At Rotherhithe (see p. 68), to the E. of the tunnel, are situated 9. WEST INDIA DOCKS. 131 the numerous large basins of the Surrey and Commercial Docks (PL R, 53, etc.), covering together an area of ahout 350 acres, and chiefly used for timber. On the N. bank of the river, to the E, ofWapping, ]ie Sha dwell andi Stepney. At Limehouse, oppo- site the Commercial Docks, is the entrance to the Regent's Canal, which runs N. to Victoria Park, then turns to the W., traverses the N. part of London, and unites with the Paddington Canal, which forms part of a continuous water-route as far as Liverpool. The West India Docks (PI. R, 62, etc.), nearly 300 acres in area, lie between Limehouse andBlackwall, to theN. of the Isle of Dogs^ which is formed here by a sudden bend of the river. They can contain at one time as many as 460 West India merchantmen. Several of the chief lines of steamers load and discharge their car goes in these docks. The three principal basins are called the Import Dock^ the Export Dock, and the South Dock. The smaller East India Docks (PL R, 70, 71) are at Blackwall, a little lower down. Some of the chief lines of sailing-ships use these. The Millwall Docks, 100 acres in extent (35 water), are in the Isle of Dogs, near the West India Docks. On the S. bank, opposite the Isle of Dog., lies Deptford, with the Corporation Market for Foreign Cattle. Still lower down than the East India Docks, between Bow Creek, North Woolwich, and Galleon's Reach, lie the magnificent Victoria and Albert Docks, 2^/4 M. in length, lighted by electricity and provided with every convenience and accommodation for sailing vessels and steamers of the largest size. The steamers of the Peninsular and Oriental, the Anchor, the National, and other important com- panies, put in at these docks. The Hydraulic Lift, for supporting vessels when undergoing repair, is worthy of inspection. The Victoria Dock Co. has been amalgamated with the London and St. Katherine's Docks Co., which has constructed a special railway, extending to Galleon's Reach and bringing the docks into direct connection with the Great Eastern Railway. The East and West In- dia Dock Co. have built large new docks at Tilbury (p. 344). A new Tunnel is being made by the Cnuuty Council beneath the Thames at Blackwall, close to the East India Docks. The length of the tunnel proper will be 1488 yds., of which 404 yds. will be under the river, and the diameter 24 ft., or 51/2 ft. larger than any other construction of the kind. 10. Bethnal Green Museum. National Portrait Gallery. Victoria Park. The Bethnal Green Museum (PL B, 52), a branch of South Ken- sington Museum, opened in 1872, occupies a red brick building in Victoria Park Square, Cambridge Road, Bethnal Green. It was established chiefly for the benefit of the inhabitants of the poorer East End of London. The only permanent contents are collections of specimens of food and of animal and vegetable products, but loan 9* 132 10. BETHNAL GREEN MUSEUM. collections of various kinds are also always on view. Admission, see p. 78 (catalogues on sale). The number of visitors in 1888 was 910,511, and in 1893 it was 591,074, the great superiority in the former year being due to the temporary exhibition here of the Queen's Jubilee Presents. The Museum may be conveniently reached by an Old Ford omnibus from the Bank; by the Metropolitan Railway to Aldgate, and thence by a Well Street tramway-car (a red car; fare 2d.), which passes the Museum; or by train from Liverpool Street Station to Cambridge Heath (about every 10 min. ; through-booking from Metropolitan stations). In returning we may traverse Victoria Park to the (20 Min.) Victoria Park Station of the N. London Railway, whence there are trains every 1/4 hr. to Broad Street, City. The space in front of the Museum is adorned with a handsome majolica *Fountain, by Mmf on [1862). The interior of the Museum, entirely constructed of iron, consists of a large central hall, sur- rounded by a double gallery. To the right and left as we enter are busts of Garibaldi and Cromwell. The extensive and well-arranged Collection of Articles used for Food occupies theN. side of the lower gallery. It comprises speci- mens of various kinds of edibles, models of others, diagrams, draw- ings, and so forth. On the S. side is the collection of Animal Pro- ducts, largely consisting of clothing materials (wool, silk, leather, etc.) at different stages of their manufacture. The area of the central hall is occupied by a Collection of Works of Ornamental Art in gold, sil- ver, bronze, and china, French furniture, etc., lent by Mr. and Mrs. Massey-Mainwaring and others. On screens round the hall is the Dixon Collection of water-colours and oil-paintings, bequeathed to the Museum in 1885. The former include examples of De Wint, Cooper, Birket Foster, David Cox, etc. ; the latter are less inter- esting. Here too are exhibited an alto-relievo of Mrs. Siddons (d. 1831), by Campbell, and a bust of Mrs. Jameson (d. 1860), the writer on art, by Gibson, both belonging to the National Portrait Gallery (see below). The flooring of the central hall consists of a mosaic pavement formed from refuse chippings of marble, executed by female convicts in Woking Prison. TheN. and S. basements are occupied by a collection of sketches by George Cruikshank, the caricaturist, by part of the Dixon Collection, and by various pic- tures, etc., on loan. In the N. basement is a plain refreshment-room. The upper gallery, well lighted from the roof, now contains (until the completion of the new building beside the National Gallery, see p. 152) the **National Portrait Gallery (formerly at South Kensington) , a highly valuable series of orirginal por- traits and busts of celebrated natives of Great Britain and Ire- land. The director of the gallery is Mr. George Scharf, C. J5., who has prepared an excellent catalogue (1888; Is.). The pictures are arranged approximately in historical sequence, beginning at the E. end of the S. Gallery. The outsides of the screens facing the central hall, however, are hung in both galleries with modern por- traits. In the E. gallery are two recumbent figures , electrotype 10. NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY. 133 casts of the originals in Gloucester Cathedral : on the right, Ed- ward II. (d. 1327) , a good piece of Gothic work ; on the left, Rohert, Duke of Normandy, surnamed Gurthose, eldest son of William the Conqueror. Here also are various statues and busts. In the W. Gallery is a series of electrotypes of English soYereigns. Several paintings belonging to the National Portrait Gallery are at present deposited in the National Gallery (see p. 153j. PoRTKAiTs OF THE Plantagenbt Pbriod (1154-1485). The portraits, executed at a later period, are of little artistic value. The best is that of Richard III. (d. 1483) , in the act of putting a ring on his finger, probably by a Flemish artist. Facsimile of an an- cient diptych representing Richard II. (1366-1400), at the age of fifteen, kneeling before the Virgin and Child (Arundel Society pub- lication). Portrait of Geoffrey Chaucer (1340-1400). Tracings of the portraits of Edioard III. and his family on the E. wall of St. Stephen's Chapel, Westminster (date, 1356), now destroyed. Portraits of the Tudor Period (1485-1603). Henry VII. (d. 1509), a work in the upper German style, painted, according to the Latin inscription^ for Hermann Rinck (restored); Cardinal Wolsey, a crude performance , probably after an Italian original ; several portraits of Henry VIII. ^ nearly all after Holbein; Queen Mary /., at the age of 28, before her accession; * Thomas Cranmer, Archbishop of Canterbury (1489-1556), by Gerbarus Flicius ; *Sir Thomas Gresham (1519-1579), founder of the Royal Exchange, by Sir Anthony More, a pupil of Schoreel ; Peter Martyr Vermilius of Florence (d. 1562), preacher of the Reformation at Oxford, by Hans Asper of Ziirich; Sir Henry Vnton (d. 1596), a curious work with scenes from his life, by an unknown painter; portraits of Raleigh, Burleigh^ Camden, and George Buchanan; several portraits of Queen Elizabeth and Mary, Queen of Scots; also the so-called Frazer-Tytler portrait of the latter, now accepted as Mary of Lorraine, her mother. Portraits of the Stuart Period (1603-1649). Earl of South- ampton (d. 1624), the friend and patron of Shakspeare, byMierevelt; oil-portrait of Shakspeare (the Chandos portrait), with an engraving from the first folio edition of the plays (1623) ; Guy Fawkes and other conspirators of the Gunpowder Plot, engraving with good portraits taken from life; Ben Jonson (d. 1637); Children of Charles /., early copy of a well-known picture by Van Dyck ; *Endymion Porter, confidant of Charles I. (1587-1649), by Dobson ; James /., in the royal robes, by Van Somer ; Lord Bacon (1561-1626), by Van Somer; James VI. of Scotland at the age of eight, by Zucchero ; Elizabeth J Queen of Bohemia (^d. 1662), byMierevelt; Inigo Jones, the architect (1573-1652), by Old Stone, after Van Dyck ; W. Dob- son (1610-1646), a follower of Van Dyck and the first native Eng- lish portrait-painter of any eminence , by himself ; Michael Drayton, the poet (d. 1631); Sir Kenelm Digby (d. 1665), by Van Dyck. 134 10. NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY. Portraits of the Common-wealth (1649-1660] and the reign OF Charles II. (1660-85). Among the best portraits of this period are those of Harrington (d. 1677), tlie author, by Honthorst; Tho- mas Hobbes, the philosopher (d. 1679), by J. M. Wright, and *Qu€en Elizabeth of Bohemia (d. 1662), at the age of forty-six, by Honthorst. The portraits of Nell Qwynne^ Mary Davis, the actress, La Belle Hamilton, and other beauties by Sir Peter Lely, are in- ferior in art value to the *Portraits of the Duke of Buckingham (d. 1687) and the Countess of Shrewsbury by the same artist. Por- traits of Cromwell , Milton (a painting by Van der Plaas and an engraving from the life by Faithorne), Cowley, Suckling, Andrew Marvell, Ireton, Monk, and Samuel Butler are also exhibited here. Portraits of the reigns of James II., William III., and Queen Anne (1685-1714). The best portrait in this section is that of *Sir Christopher Wren, the architect of St. Paul's Cathedral (1637-1723), by Sir Godfrey Kneller, a pupil of Rembrandt. Among the other portraits are the Seven Bishops, Waller, the poet, Locke, tte philosopher, the Duke of Marlborough, Duchess of Marlborough, Viscount Torrington (d. 1733), Lord Chancellor Jeffreys, and the first Duke of Bedford (d. 1700), by Kneller. Henry St. John, Vis- count Bo lingbroke, the sta.teavii3in (1678-1751), by H. Iligaud ; Matt. Prior (1664-1721), the poet, by Richardson ; Joseph Addison (1672- 1719), two portraits, by Kneller and Dahl; Sir Isaac Newton {iQ4:2- 1727), by Vanderbank; Jonathan Swift (1667-1745), by C. Jervas. As we approach our own times the portraits become much more numerous, and it must suffice to give here a mere selection of those most interesting from their subject or treatment. Portraits of the Eighteenth Century. Several portraits of Cardinal York (1725-1807), including one of him when a child by *Largilliere ; Charles Edward Stuart {1720-88'), the Pretender, por- traits by Largilliere and Batoni; Simon Eraser, Lord Lovat (p. 126), by Hogarth; Wm. Hogarth (1697-1764), the painter, by himself; Alexander Pope (1688-1744), in crayons, byHoare; Pope and Martha Blount, by Jervas; Bishop Berkeley (1684-1753), by Smibert; James Thomson (d. 1748), the poet, by Paton; Handel (d. 1759), by Hud- sou; Isaac Watts (d. 1748), the hymn-writer, by Kneller; *W. Pul- teney. Earl of Bath (1682-1764), by Reynolds, vigorously handled; General Wolfe (1726-59), by Highmore; Samuel Richardson (d. 1761), by Schaak; Peg Woffington (1720-1760), the actress, painted as she lay in bed paralysed, by A. Pond ; Sir Joshua Bej/- noWa (1723-1792), when a young man, by himself ; Oliver Gold- smith (1728-1774), by a pupil of Reynolds, a portrait familiar from numerous engravings; David Garrick (d. 1779), by Pine; Edmund Burke (d. 1797), by Reynolds; Sir Wm. Blackstone (1723-80), the lawyer, by Reynolds ; William, Duke of Cumberland (d. 1765), by Reynolds ; Sir William Chambers (d. 1796), the architect of Somerset House, by Reynolds, somewhat pale in tone; Admiral Viscount Kep- 10. NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY. 135 pel (1727-1782), ty Reynolds ; Sir William Hamilton (1740-1803), the diplomatist and antiquary, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, and another by Allan (1775); Lord Clive (d. 1774), by Dance; Lord Chancellor Thurlow (1732-1806), by PhiUips; William Pitt, first Earl of Chatham (d. 1778), by Brompton ; ^Charles James Fox (1794-1806), by Hiekel; Queen Charlotte, wife of George III., by Allan Ramsay ; Benjamm Franfeim (1706-1790), by Baricolo; George Whitefield (^d. 1770), by Woolaston; Robert Burns (d. 1796), by Nasmyth, well known from engravings; Captain Cooke (d. 1779), by AVebber; two portraits oiJohn Wesiei/(1703-1791), one by Hone representing him at the age of 63, the other by Hamilton at the age of 85 ; John Wilkes (d. 1797), drawing by Earlom ; R.B.Sheridan (d. 1816), by Russell. Pgutraits op the Nineteenth Century. Warren Hastings (1733-1818), by Sir Thomas Lawrence ; Francis Corner (1778-1817), the politician and essayist, one of the founders of the 'Edinburgh Review', by Sir Henry Raeburn ; *Jam€S Watt (1736-1819), by C. J. de Breda; Sir Walter Scott (d. 1832), by Graham Gilbert; Scott, in his study at Abbotsford, with his deerhound Maida, by Sir Wm. Allan, the last portrait he sat for ; another by Landseer; Lord Byron (d. 1824), in Greek costume, by T. Phillips; Sir William Herschel (1738-1822), by Abbott; J. Flaxman (d. 1826), by Romney; W. Wilberforce, the philanthropist (d. 1833), by Sir T. Lawrence (un- finished) ; John Keats (d. 1821), by Hilton, and another by Severn ; John Philip Kemhle (1757-1826), the tragedian, as Hamlet, by Sir Thos. Lawrence; S. T. Coleridge (d. 1834), byAUston; Emma, Lady Hamilton (d. 1815), by Romney; Sir Philip Francis (d. 1818; supposed author of the 'Letters of Junius'), by Lonsdale; Sir James Mackintosh (A.. 1832), by Lawrence ; Wm. Blake (d. 1827), the poet and painter, by Phillips. Dr. Jenner (d. 1823), the discov- erer of the protective properties of vaccination, by Northcote; in front lies his work, 'On the Origin of Vaccine Inoculation' (1801), with a cow's hoof as letter-weight. Lord Nelson (d. 1805), by L. J. Abbott and H. Fiiger of Vienna (two portraits) ; * Jeremy Bentham, the economist and political writer (d. 1832), by T. Frye and H. W. Pickersgill; George Stephenson (1781-1848), the first to apply the locomotive engine to railway trains, and constructor of the first railway (from Manchester to Liverpool), opened in 1830 ; Rev. Ed. Irving (1792-1834), founder of the Irvingite or Catholic Apostolic Church, drawing by Slater ; Chas. Lamb (d. 1834), by Hazlitt ; Thos. Campbell (d. 1844), by Lawrence ; Mrs. Siddons (d. 1831), by Lawrence, and another by Beechey ; James Hogg, the 'Ettrick Shepherd' (d. 1833), by Denning; Sir David Wilkie (d. 1841), by himself; Benjamin West {d. 1820), by Stuart; Leigh Hunt (d. 1859), by Haydon ; Admiral Sir John Ross (1777-1856), the arctic navigator, by J. Green ; William Wordsworth (1770-1850), by H. W. Pickersgill; Samuel Rogers, the poet (1762-1855), charcoal drawing by Sir T. Lawrence; Queen Victoria, after Angeli; the 136 10. NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY. late Prince Consort (d. 1861), by Winterhalter ; Professor Wilson (^Christopher North; d. 1854), by Gordon; Rev. F. D. Maurice (d. 1872), by Hay ward ; * Thomas de Quincey (1785-1859), by Sir John Watson Gordon; Cofiden (d. 1867), by Dickinson; John Gibson the sculptor (1791-1861), by Mrs. Carpenter; M. Faraday (d. 1867), by Phillips ; Charles Dickens (d. 1870), by Ary Scheffer ; Lord Macaulay (d. 1859), sketch by Grant; W. S. Landor (d. 1864), by Fisher; Douglas Jerrold (d. 1857), by Macnee ; W, M. Thackeray (d. 1863), by Lawrence ; Daniel Maclise (d. 1870), by Ward \ E. B. Browning, the poetess (d. 1861), a chalk drawing by Talfourd ; Oeo. Grote, the historian of Greece (1794-1871), by Stewardson ; George Eliot (Mrs. Cross; d. 1880), by Sir F. Burton ; Sarah Austin, the novelist; Da- niel 0'Connell{d. 1847), byMulrennin; Sir Fr. Chantrey [d. 1841), by himself ; Lord Stratford de Redcliffe (1788-1880), by G. F. Watts ; Adelaide Procter (1825-1864), by Mrs. Gaggiottl Richards; Robert Owen, the socialist (d. iSbS); John Bright (d. 1889), by W.W. Ouless. At the E. end of the N. Gallery are the following large pic- tures: The First House of Commons after the Reform Bill of 1832, with 320 portraits, by Hayter (key below); Convention of the Anti- Slavery Society in 1840, by Haydon, with portraits of Clarkson, Fowell Buxton, Gurney, Lady Byron, etc. In the S. gallery is a photograph of the House of Commons in 1793, from the original picture by Anton Hickel, now in the National Gallery (p. 153). Among the most interesting of the busts and statues inter- spersed among the pictures axe the following. Sitting figure of Francis Bacon, Baron Verulam (1561-1626); bronze busts of Charles I. and Oliver Cromwell ; terracotta *Bust of Thomas Carlyle ri795-1881), by Boehm; a small marble bust of Thackeray (1811- 63), by Barnard; an electrotype mask of Keats, from a mould taken during life; sitting statuette of the Earl of Beaconsfield (iSOA-iSSi\ by Lord Ronald Gower; busts of W. Hogarth (1697-1764), byRou- biliac; Thackeray, by Durham; Charles James Fox (1749-1806), by Nollekens; John Hampden (1594-1643); Garrick (1716-1779); William Pitt (1759-1806), by Nollekens; Lord George Bentinck (1802-1848), by Campbell; Thomas Moore (d. 1852), by C. Moore; Lord Jeffrey (d. 1850), by Park; Parson (1759-1808), by Ganga- relli; Dr. Thom.as Arnold (1795-1842), by Behnes; John Wesley (1703-1791); Lord Chancellor Eldon (1751-1838), by Tatham; Sir Thos. Lawrence (d. 1830), by Baily ; Wm. Etty (d. 1849), by Noble ; Benjamin West (d. 1820). by Chantrey ; Sam. Lover (d. 1868), by Foley; George Stephenson{d. 1848), by Pitts; John Rennie (d. 1821), the engineer, by Chantrey ; Chas. Knight (d. 1873), by Durham ; Sir Robert Peel (d. 1850), by Noble; Cobden (d. 1865), by Woolner; and Lord John Russell (d. 1878), by Francis. — The glass-cases contain interesting Autographs, Miniatures, Medals, etc. 10. VICTORIA PARK. 137 The large building in Green Street, to the S. of the Museum, is a Lunatic Asylum. — From Old Ford Road, which diverges to the E. immediately to the N. of the Museum, Approach Road., in which is the City of London Consumption Hospital, leads to the N.E. to Victoria Park (PL B, 55, 58, 591. This park, covering 290 acres of ground, laid out at a cost of 130,000^., forms a place of recrea- tion for the poorer (E.) quarters of London. The eastern and larger portion is unplanted, and is used for cricket and other games. The W. side is prettily laid out with walks, beds of flowers, and two sheets of water, on which swans may be seen disporting them- selves, and pleasure boats hired. Near the centre of the park is the Victoria Fountain, in the form of a Gothic temple, erected by Baro- ness Burdett Coutts (comp. p. 26) in 1862. The park also contains open air gymnasiums. The most characteristic times to see Victoria Park are on Sat. or Sun. evenings or on a public holiday. On the N.W. side of the park, near Haclcney Common, is the large and handsome Hospice for the Descendants of French Protestants. — Victoria Park is most easily reached by the North London Railway ; trains start from Broad Street Station, City (p. 33), every 1/4 hr., and reach Victoria Park Station, at the N.E. extremity of the park, in 19 min. (fares Gd., 4d., 3d. ; return-tickets 9d., Qd., 5(i.); stations Shoreditch, Haggerston, Dalston, Hackney, Homerton, Victoria Park. Beyond Victoria Park the train proceeds to Old Ford, Bow, South Bromley, Poplar, and Blackwall (p. 131). 11. Fleet Street. The Temple. Chancery Lane. Royal Courts of Justice. St. Bride's. Church of St. Dunstan in the West. New Record Office. Temple Church. Lincoln's Inn. Gray's Inn. Temple Bar. Fleet Street (PI. R, 35; //), one of the busiest streets in London, leads from Ludgate Circus to the Strand and the West End. It derives its name from the Fleet Brook, which, now in the form of a main sewer, flows through Holborn Valley (p. 94) and under Farringdon Street, reaching the Thames at Blackfriars Bridge. On the E. side of the brook formerly stood the notorious Fleet Prison for debtors, which was removed in 1844. Prisoners condemned by the Star Cham- ber were once confined here, and within its precincts were formerly celebrated the clandestine 'Fleet marriages' (see 'The Fleet: its River, Prison, and Marriages', by John Ashton; 1888). Its site (in Farringdon Street, on the right) is now occupied by the handsome Gothic Congregational Memorial Hall, begun in 1862, and so named in memory of the 2000 ministers ejected from the Church of England by Charles II. 's Act of Uniformity, 1667. The site of the Hall cost nearly 30,000i., and the total amount expended on land and build- ing has been 93,450L 138 11. FLEET STREET. Fleet Street itself contains few objects of external interest, though many literary associations cluster round its courts and byways. It is still celebrated for its newspaper and other printing and publishing offices. To the left, but not visible from the street (entrance in St. Bride's Passage, adjoining the office of Punch) is St. Bride's, a church built by Wren in 1703, with a hand- some tower 223 ft. in height. In the central aisle is the grave of Richardson, the author of 'Clarissa Harlowe' (d. 1761], who lived in Salisbury Square in the neighbourhood. The old church of St. Bride, destroyed in the Fire, was the burial-place of Sackville (1608), Lovelace (1658), and the printer Wynkin de Worde. In a house in the adjacent churchyard Milton once lived for several years. Shoe Lane, nearly opposite the church, leads to Holborn ; while a little farther on, on the same side, axe Bolt Court, where Dr. John- son spent the last years of his life (1776-84), and where Cobbett afterwards toiled and fumed ; Wine Office Court, in which is still the famous old hostelry of the Cheshire Cheese, where Johnson (whose chair is shown here) and Goldsmith so often dined, and Boswell so often listened and took notes; Gough Square, at the top of the Court (to the left), where Johnson laboured over his Dictionary and other works (house marked by a tablet) ; and Crane Court, once the home of the Royal Society, its president being Sir Isaac Newton, and now the seat of the Scottish Corporation, whose ancient Hall , burnt clown in 1877, is replaced by a modern erection of 1879-80. On the other side is Bouverie Street, leading to what was once the lawless Alsatia, immortalised by Scott in the 'Fortunes of Nigel'. In the be- ginning of 1883 a part of the ancient monastery of Whitefriars was discovered in this street, including a fragment of a stone tower of great thickness and strength. Fetter Lane (p. 139), and Chancery Lane (p. 139) farther to the W., on the N. side, also lead to Holborn. At the corner of Chancery Lane is a handsome Branch of the Bank of England. Izaak Walton, the famous angler, once occupied a shop as a hosier (1624-43; comp. p. 139) on this site. Close to it is a quaint old house with bow windows (No. 184), once occupied by Drayton, the poet (d. 1631). Between Fetter Lane and Chancery Lane rises the church of St. Dunstan in the West, erected by Shaw in 1833, with a fine Gothic tower. Over the E. door is a statue of Queen Eliza- beth from the old Lud-Gate, once a city-gate at the foot of Ludgate Hill. The old clock of St. Dunstan had two wooden giants to strike the hours, which still perform that office at St. Dunstan's Villa, Re- gent's Park (p. 237). Near St. Dunstan's Church, at No. 183 Fleet Street, was Cobbett's book-shop and publishing office, where he is- sued his 'Political Register'; and on the opposite side, now No. 56, was the house of AVilliam Hone, the free-thinking publisher of the 'Every-day Book'. Opposite Fetter Lane is Mitre Court, with the tavern once frequented by Johnson, Goldsmith, and Boswell. 11. NEW RECORD OFFICE. 139 Fetter Lane (PI. R, 35, 36 ; II) is said to derive its name from the 'faitours' or beggars that once infested it. To the left, a few yards from Fleet Street, is an entrance to Clifford's Inn. Farther on is the New Record Office (PL R, 35 ; 7/), for the custody of legal records and state papers, a fire-proof edifice in the Tudor style, erected in 1851-66 by Sir J. Pennethorne. A large addition (to be finished in 1895) is at present being erected with a facade towards Chancery Lane. The necessary works have much altered this quarter of legal London. The interior contains 142 rooms, between the rows of which on each floor nxn narrow passages paved with brick. Each room or compartment is about 25 ft. long, 17 ft. broad, and I53/4 ft. high. The floor, door-posts, window-frames, and ceilings are of iron, and the shelves of slate. Sincu the completion of the structure , the state papers, formerly kept in the State Paper Office, the Tower, the Chapter House of Westminster Abbey, the Eolls Chapel in Chancery Lane, at Carlton House, and in the State Paper Office in St. James's Park, have been deposited here. Here, too, are preserved the Domesday Book, in two parchment volumes of different sizes, containing the results of a statistical survey of England made in 1086 by order of William the Conqueror-, the deed of resignation of the Scottish throne by David Bruce in favour of Edward II. ; a charter granted by Alphonso of Castile on the marriage of Edward I. with Eleanor of Castile 5 the treaty of peace between Henry VIII. and Francis I., with a gold seal said to be the work of Benvenufo Cellini; various deeds of surrender of monasteries in England and Wales in favour of Henry VIII. ; and an innumerable quantity of other records. The business hours are from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. (on Sat. 2 p.m.), during which the Search Rooms are open to the public. Documents down to 1760 may be inspected gratis ; the charge for copying is Qd.-ls. (according to date) per folio of 72 words, the minimum charge being 2s. The Moravian Chapel, opposite the Record Office, escaped the great fire in 1666. In Fleur-de-Lis Court, off Fetter Lane, is iVcu-- ton Hall, the meeting-place of the Positivists under Mr. Frederic Harrison (meetings on Sun. at 7.30 p.m.). In Breams Buildings, which runs from Fetter Lane to Chancery Lane, is the Birkbeck Liter- ary and Scientific Institute, a kind of evening college. Chancery Lane (PI. R, 32, 31, 35 ; //) leads through the quarter chiefly occupied by barristers and solicitors. Izaak Walton occupied a shop on the right near Crown Court, after removing from Fleet Street (p. 138). On the right is Serjeantfi' Inn opening into Clifford's Inn (p. 140). Farther up are the new buildings of the Record Office (p. 139), on the site of the Rolls Buildings. The former Court of the Master of the Rolls has been taken down, but the Master's former residence and the Rolls Chapel are preserved. In the latter (service on Sun. at 11 a.m.) is a remarkably fine monument to Dr. John Young, Master of the Rolls, by Torregriano (1516). Visitors on week- days apply to the policeman at the entrance from Chancery Lane. To the barristers belong the four great Inns of Court, viz. the Temple (Inner and Middle) on the S. of Fleet Street (see p. 141), Lincoln's Inn in Chancery Lane, and Gray's Inn in Holborn. These Inns are colleges for the study of law, and possess the privilege of calling to the Bar. Each is governed by its older members, who are termed Benchers. 140 11. LINCOLN'S INN. Formerly subsidiary to the four Inns of Court were the nine Inns of Chancery, which now, however, have little beyond local connection with them, and are let out in chambers to solicitors, barristers, and the gen- eral public. These are Clifford^ s Jnn, Clement's Inn, an A. Lyon's Inn (no^v the site of the Globe Theatre), attached to ihe Inner Temple; I^ew Inn and Strand Inn, to the Middle Temple; Furnival's Inn and Thavies' Inn, to Lincoln's Inn: Staple Inn and Barnard's Inn (p. 95), to Gray's Inn. Serjeants' Inn, Chancery Lane, was originally set apart for the use of the serjeants-at-law, whose name is derived from the 'fratres servientes' of the old Knights Templar; but the building is now used for other purposes. Lincoln's Inn (PL R, 31, 32; //), tlie third of tlie Inns of Court in importance, is situated without the City, on a site once occupied by the mansion of the Earl of Lincoln and other houses. The Gatehouse in Chancery Lane was built in 1518 by Sir Thomas Lovell, whose coat-of-arms it bears. Ben Jonson is said to have been employed as a bricklayer in constructing the adjacent wall about a century later (1617); but the truth of this tradition may well be doubted, since in 1617 Jonson was 44 years old and had written some of his best plays. The Chapel was erected by Jnigo Jones in 1621-23, and contains good wood-carving and stained glass. Like the Round Church of the Temple, this chapel was once used as a consultation room by the barristers and their clients. The New Hall, the handsome dining-hall of Lincoln's Inn, in the Tudor style , was completed in 1845 under the supervision of Mr. Hardwick, the architect. It contains a painting by Hogarth, representing Paul before Felix, a large fresco of the School of Legis- lation, by G. F. Waits (1860), and a statue of Lord Eldon, by West- macott. The Library, founded in 1497, is the oldest in London, and contains 25,000 vols, and numerous valuable MSS.; most of the latter were bequeathed by Sir Matthew Hale, a member of the Inn. Among its most prized contents is the fourth volume of Prynne's Records, for which the society gave 335i. — The revenue of this inn amounts to 35,329i. Sir Thomas More, Shaftesbury, Selden, Oliver Cromwell, William Pitt, Lord Erskine, Lord Mansfield, and Lord Brougham were once numbered among its members. Thurloe, Crom- well's secretary, had chambers at No. 24 Old Square (to the left, on the ground-floor) in 1645-59, and the Thurloe papers were after- wards discovered here in the false ceiling. Among the preachers of Lincoln's Inn were Usher, Tillotson, Heber, and Frederick Denison Maurice. — The Court of Chancery, or, more correctly, under the Judicature Act of 1873, the 'Equity Division of the High Court of Justice', formerly held some of its sittings in Lincoln's Inn. Lin- coln's Inn Fields, see p. 183. Chancery Lane ends at Holborn, at a point a little to the N. of which is Gray's Inn (PL R, 32; JI), which formerly paid a ground- rent to the Lords Gray of Wilton and has existed as a school of law since 1371. The Elizabethan Hall, built about 1560, contains fine wood-carving. During the 17th cent, the garden, in which a number of trees were planted by Lord Bacon, was a fashionable promenade ; 11. THE TEMPLE. 141 but it is not now open to the public. The name of Lord Bacon is the most eminent among those of former members of Gray's Inn. Comp. 'Chronicles of an Old Inn', by Andree Hope. — Gray's Inn Road, an important but unattractive thoroughfare to the E. of Gray's Inn, runs to the N., passing the Royal Free Hospital, from Holborn to Euston Road (King's Cross Station, p. 32). The Temple [PI. R, 35 ; 77) , on the S. side of Fleet Street, formerly a lodge of the Knights Templar, — a religious and mili- tary order founded at Jerusalem, in the 12th century, under Baldwin, King of Jerusalem, to protect the Holy Sepulchre, and pilgrims resorting thither, and called Templars from their original designation as 'poor soldiers of the Temple of Solomon' — became crown-property on the dissolution of the order in 1313, and was presented by Edward II. to Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke. After Pembroke's death the Temple came into the possession of the Knights of St. John, who, in 1346, leased it to the students of common law. From that time to the present day the building, or rather group of buildings, which extends down to the Thames, has continued to be a school of law. Down to the reign of James I. it had to pay a tax to the Crown, but in 1609 it was declared by royal decree the free, hereditary property of the corporations of the Inner and the Middle Temple. The revenue of the Inner Temple amounts to 25,676L , that of the Middle Temple to 12,240^. The Inner Temple is so called from its position within the precincts of the City; the Middle Temple derives its name from its situation between the Inner and the Outer Temple, the last of which was afterwards replaced by Exeter Buildings. The name Oviter Temple is now appropriated by a handsome block of offices and chambers directly opposite the new Law Courts (p. 144). Middle Temple Lane separates the Inner Temple on the east from the Middle Temple on the west. The Inner and the Middle Temple possess in common the *Temple Church, or St. Mary's Church, situated within the bounds of the Inner Temple. Adm., see p. 78; visitors knock at the door ; if the verger is not in the church, the keys may be ob- tained at the porter's lodge, at the top of Inner Temple Lane. This church is divided into two sections, the Round Church and the Choir. The Round Church, about 58 ft. in diameter, a Norman edifice with a tendency to the transition style, and admirably en- riched, was completed in 1185. The choir, in the Early English style, was added in 1240. During the Protectorate the ceiling- paintings were white-washed ; and the old church afterwards became so dilapidated, that it was necessary in 1839-42 to subject it to a thorough restoration, a work which cost no less than 70,000Z. The lawyers used formerly to receive their clients in the Round Church, each occupying his particular post like merchants 'on change'. Th^ 142 11. TEMPLE CHURCH. incumbent of the Temple Church is called the Master of the Temple, an office once filled by the 'judicious Hooker', a bust of ■whom is placed in the S.E. corner of the choir. A handsome Norman archway leads into the interior, which is a few steps below the level of the entrance. The choir, at the end of which are the altar and stalls (during divine service open to members of the Temple corporations and their families only), and the Round Church (to which the public is admitted) are both borne by quadrangular clustered pillars in marble. The ceiling is a fine exapmle of Gothic decorative painting, carefully restored on the original lines. The pavement consists of tiles, in which the lamb with the cross (the Agnus Dei), the heraldic emblem of the Templars , and the Pegasus , the arms of the Inner and Middle Temple respectively, continually recur. Most of the stained- glass windows are modern. In the Round Church are nine *Monu~ merits of Templars of the 12th and 13th centuries , consisting of recumbent figures of dark marble in full armour. One of the four on the S. side , under whose pillow is a slab with foliage in relief, is said to be that of William Marshal, Earl of Pembroke (d. 1219), brother-in-law of King John, who filled the office of Regent during the minority of Henry III. The detached monument on the S. wall, resembling the other eight, is that of Robert deRoss (d. 1227), one of the Barons to whom England owes the Magna Charta (p. 193). The monuments are beautifully executed, but owe their fresh appearance to a 'restoration' by Richardson in 1842. In a recess to the left of the altar is a black marble slab in memory of John Selden (d. 1654), 'the great dictator of learning to the English nation' ; and to the right of the altar is a fine recumbent effigy of a mitred ecclesiastic, discovered in the wall of the church during the restoration in 1840. The triforium, which encircles the Round Church, contains some uninteresting old monuments , but is not now open to the public. On the stair leading to it is a small peni- tential cell, prisoners in which could hear the service in the church by means of slits in the wall. Oliver Goldsmith (d. 1774), author of the 'Vicar of Wakefield', is buried in the Churchyard to the N. of the choir. — See 'The Temple Church and Chapel of St. Ann', by H. T. Baylis, Q. C. (London, 1893). The Temple Gardens, once immediately adjacent to the Thames, but now separated from it by the Victoria Embankment, are open to the public on days and hours determined from time to time by the Benchers (ascertainable by enquiry at the gates or lodges). The gardens are well kept, but are becoming more and more cir- cumscribed by the erection of new buildings. Here, according to Shakspeare, were plucked the white and red roses which were assumed as the badges of the houses of York and Lancaster, in the long and bloody civil contest, known as the 'Wars of the Roses'. 11. TEMPLE BAR. 143 Plantagenet. Great lords, and gentlemen, what means this silence? Dare no man answer in a ease of truth? Suffolk. Within the Temple hall we were too loud ; The garden here is more convenient. Plantagenet. Since you are tongue-tied and so loath to speak, In dumb significants proclaim your thoughts : Let him that is a true-born gentleman, And stands upon the honour of his birth, If he suppose that I have pleaded truth, From off this brier pluck a white rose with me. Somerset. Let him that is no coward, nor no flatterer, But dare maintain the party of the truth, Pluck a red rose from off this thorn with me. Warwick. — This brawl to-day. Grown to this faction in the Temple Garden, Shall send, between the red rose and the white, A thousand souls to death and deadly night. Henry VI., Part I; Act ii. Sc. 4. The Temple Gardens are famous for their Chrysanthemums, a brilliant show of which is held in November. The figure of a Moor (Italian ; 17th or 18th cent), bearing a sun-dial was brought hither from the garden of St. Clement's Inn. The fine Gothic *Hall of the Middle Temple, built in 1572, and used as a dining-room, is notable for its handsome open-work ceiling in old oak. The walls are embellished with the armorial bearings of the Knights Templar, and five large full-length portraits of princes, including an equestrian portrait of Charles I. The large windows contain the arms of members of the Temple who have sat in the House of Peers. Shakspeare's 'Twelfth Night' was acted in this hall during the dramatist's lifetime (Feb. 2nd, 1601-2). — Tlie Library (30,000 vols.) is preserved in a modern Gothic building on the side next the Thames, which contains a hall 85 ft. long and 62 ft. high. — The new Inner Temple Hall , opened in 1870, is a handsome structure, also possessing a fine open-work roof. — Oliver Gold- smith lived and died on the second floor of 2 Brick Court, Middle Temple Lane ; Blackstone, the famous commentator on the law of England, lived in the rooms below him ; and Dr. Johnson occu- pied apartments in Inner Temple Lane, in a house now taken down. At the W. end of Fleet Street rises the Temple Bar Memorial., with statues of the Queen and the Prince of Wales at the sides and surmounted by the City Griffin and arms. This was erected in 1880 to mark the site of Temple Bar, a gateway formerly adjoining the Temple, between Fleet Street and the Strand, built by Wren in 1670. Its W. side was adorned with statues of Charles I. and Charles II., its E. side with statues of Anne of Denmark and James I. The heads ot criminals used to be barbarously exhibited on iron spikes on the top of the gate. "When the reigning sovereign visited the City on state occasions, he was wont, in accordance with an ancient custom, to obtain permission from the Lord Mayor to pass TempleBar. The heavy wooden^gates were afterwards removed |to relieve the Bar of their 144 11. COURTS OF JUSTICE. weight, as it had shown signs of weakness ; and the whole erection was finally demolished early in 1878 , to permit of the widening of the street and to facilitate the enormous traffic. In Dec, 1888, the gate was re-erected near one of the entrances of Theobalds Park, Waltham Cross, Herts, the seat of Sir H. B. Meux (see p. 338). Adjoining the site of Temple Bar, on the S. side of Fleet Street, stands the large, new building of Child's Bank, which was in high repute in the time of the Stuarts, and is the oldest banking house in London but one Dryden, Pepys, Nell Gwynne, and Prince Rupert were early customers of this bank. The Child family is still connected with the business. Next door to this house was the 'Devirs Tavern', noted as the home of the Apollo Club, of which Ben Jonson, Randolph, and Dr. Kenrick were frequenters. The tavern was in time absorbed by Child's Bank , which also used the room over the main arch of Temple Bar as a storehouse. Immediately to the E. of Temple Bar, on the N. side of the Strand [p. 145), rise the Koyal Courts of Justice, a vast and magnificent Gothic pile, forming a whole block of buildings, with a frontage towards the Strand of about 500 ft. The architect was Mr. G. E. Street, who unfortunately died shortly before the com- pletion of his great work; a statue of him, by Armstead, has been placed on the E. side of the central hall. The Courts were formally opened on Dec. 4th, 1882, by Queen Victoria, in presence of the Lord Chancellor, the Prime Minister, and the other chief dignitaries of the realm. The building cost about 750,000i. and the site about 1,450,000^. The principal internal feature is the large central hall. 238 ft. long, 48 ft. wide, and 80 ft. high, with a fine mosaic flooring designed by Mr. Street. The building contains in all 19 court- rooms and about 1100 apartments of all kinds. When the courts are sitting, the general public are admitted to the galleries only, the central hall and the court-rooms being reserved for members of the Bar and persons connected with the cases. During the vacation the central hall is open to the public from 11 to 3, and tickets of admission to the courts may be obtained gratis at the superintendent's office. For about a century and a half after the Norman Conquest, the royal court of justice followed the King from place to place; but one of the articles of Magna Charta provided that the Common Pleas, or that branch of the court in which disputes between subjects were settled, should be fixed at Westminster. The Court of King's Bench seems to have been also held here from the time of Henry III. The Court of Chancery sat regularly in Westminster Hall from about the reign of Henry VIII., but was afterwards removed to Lincoln's Inn. This separation of common law and equity proved very inconvenient to the attorneys and others, and the Westminster courts became much too small for the business carried on in them. It was accordingly resolved to build a large new palace of justice to receive all the superior courts, and the site of the present Law Courts was fixed upon in 1867. The work of building actually began in 1874. The Judicature Act of 1873 oliliterated the distinction between common law and equity, and united all the superior triliunals of the country into a Supreme Court of Judicature, subdivided into a court of original jurisdiction (the High Court of Justice) and a court of appellate jurisdiction (the Court of Appeal). II. THE WEST END. 12. Strand. Somerset House. Waterloo Bridge. St. Clement Danes. The Roman Bath. King^s College. St. Mary le Strand. Savoy Chapel. Savoy Palace. Society of Arts. National Life Boat Institution. Eleanor's Cross. The Strand (PL R, 26, 31, and II; so named from its skirting the bank of the river, which is now concealed by the buildings), a broad street containing many handsome shops, is the great artery of traffic between the City and the West End, and one of the busiest and most important thoroughfares in London. It was unpaved down to 1532, and about this time it was described as 'full of pits and sloughs, very perilous and noisome'. At this period many of the mansions of the nobility and hierarchy stood here, with gardens stretching down to the Thames (comp. p. 115). The names of several streets and houses still recall these days of bygone magnificence, but the palaces themselves have long since disappeared or been converted to more plebeian uses. Ivy Bridge Lane and Strand Bridge Lane com- memorate the site of bridges over two water-courses that flowed into the Thames here, and there was a third bridge farther to theE. The Strand contains a great many newspaper offices and theatres. Just beyond the site of Temple Bar (p. 143), to which its name will doubtless long attach, on the (N.) right, rise the new Law Courts (p. 144). The church of St. Clement Danes, in the centre of the Strand, was erected in 1688 from designs by Wren. The tower, 115 ft. in height, was added by Oibbs in 1719. Dr. John- son used to worship in this church, a fact recorded by a tablet on the back of the pew. The church is said to bear its name from being the burial-place of Harold Harefoot and other Danes, Wych Street, in which the Olympic Theatre (p. 41) is situated, leads from this point to Drury Lane. At the entrance of this street is Clement's Inn (p. 140), now connected with the Temple, and named after St. Clement's Well, once situated here, but removed in 1874. — In Newcastle Street, a little to the N., is the Globe Theatre (p. 41). Essex Street, Arundel Street, Norfolk Street, and Surrey Street, diverging to the left, mark the spots where stood the mansions of the Earls of Essex (Queen Elizabeth's favourite), Arundel, and Surrey (Norfolk) respectively ; and they all lead to the Thames Embankment. Peter the Great resided in Norfolk Street during his visit to London in 1698, and William Penn once lived at No. 21 In the same street. George Sale (1680-1736), the translator of the Baedeker, London. 9th Edit. 10 146 12. SOMERSET HOUSE. Koran, as well as Congreve (d. 1729), the dramatist, lived and died in Surrey Street. Beyond Surrey Street, on the left, is the Strand Theatre (p. 40), nearly opposite which is the Opera Comique (p. 41). At No. 5 Strand Lane, the narrow opening to the left of the Strand Theatre, is an ancient Roman Bath, about 13 ft. long, 6 ft. broad, and 41/2 ft. deep, one of the few relics of the Roman period in London. The bricks at the side are laid edge- wise, and the flooring consists of brick with a thin coating of stucco. At the point where the water, which flows from a natural spring, has washed away part of the stucco covering, the old pave- ment below is visible. The clear, cold water probably flows from the old ^Holy Well\ situated on the N. side of the Strand, and lending its name to Holywell Street (behind the Opera Comique), which is chiefly occupied by book-shops of a low class. The Roman an- tiquities found here are preserved in the British Museum (p. 258). Close by, on the right of the passage, is another bath, said to have been built by the Earl of Essex about 1588; it is supplied by a pipe from the Roman bath. At No. 36 Holywell Street is a survivor of the ancient signs with which every shop in London used to be provided (a crescent moon with a face in the centre). To the N. of Holywell Street is Wych Street, with an entrance to New Inn (p. 140) and the Olympic Theatre (p. 41). King's College, the large pile of buildings adjoining Strand Lane on the W., built by Smirke in 1828, forms the E. wing of Somerset House (see below). It includes a School for boys as well as a College with departments for theology, literature, medicine, etc. The Museum contains a collection of models and instruments, in- cluding Babbage's calculating machine. In the Strand we next reach, on the N. side, the church of St. Mary le Strand, built by Gibbs in 1717, on the spot where stood in olden times the notorious Maypole, the May-day and Sun- day delight of youthful and other idlers. It was called St. Mary's after an earlier church which had been demolished by Protector Somerset to make room for his mansion of Old Somerset House (see below). Thomas Becket was rector of this parish in the reign of King Stephen. — Drury Lane, a street much in need of im- provement, and containing the theatre of the same name (p. 40), leads N. from this point to Oxford Street and the British Museum. Farther on, on theS. side of the Strand, rises the stately facade of Somerset House (PI. R, 31 ; /i), 150 ft. in length. The present large, quadrangular building was erected by Sir William Chambers in 1776-86, on the site of a palace which the Protector Somerset began to build in 1549. The Protector, however, was beheaded (p. 126) before it was completed, and the palace fell to the Crown. It was afterwards the residence of Anne of Denmark , consort of James I., of Henrietta Maria, the queen of Charles I., and of Catha- rine of Braganza, the neglected wife of the second Charles. Inigo 12. WATERLOO BRIDGE. 147 Jones died here in 1652. The old building was taken down in 1766, and the present edifice, now occupied by various public offices, erected in its stead. The imposing principal fa(jade to- wards the Thames, 780 ft. in length, rises on a terrace 50 ft, broad and 50 ft. high, and is now separated from the river by the Victoria Embankment. The quadrangular court contains a bronze group by Bacon, representing George III. leaning on a rudder, with the English lion and Father Thames at his feet. The two wings of the building were erected during the present cent. : the eastern, containing King's College (p. 146), by Smirke, in 1828 ; the western, towards Wellington Street, by Pennethorne, in 1854-56. The sum expended in constructing the latter alone was 81,000i. ; and the cost of the whole building amounted to 500,000i. At Somerset House no fewer than 900 officials are em- ployed, with salaries amounting in the aggregate to 275,000i. The building is said to contain 3600 windows. The public offices established here include the Audit Office ; the Inland Revenue Office, in the new W. wing, containing the presses for stamped paper, postage stamps, etc.; the Office of the Registrar- General of Births, Deaths, and Marriages ; the Admiralty Register ; and Z)ocfors' Commons Will Office (Prerogative Court), transferred hither from Doctors' Commons, Bennet's Hill (p. 118), in 1874. This last de- partment is the great repository of testamentary writings of all kinds. The Department for Literary Enquiry in the Central Hall is open daily from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m. Here may be seen an interesting collection of wills , including those of Shakspeare , Holbein , Van Dyck, Newton, and Samuel Johnson. The will of Napoleon I., ex- ecuted at St. Helena, used to be kept here, but was handed over to the French in 1853. Visitors are allowed to read copies of wills previous to 1700, from which also pencil extracts may be made. For showing wills of a later date a charge of Is. is made. A fee of Is. is also charged for searching the calendars. No extracts may be made from these later wills , but official copies may be procured at 8d. per folio page. On the W. side of Somerset House is Wellington Street , lead- ing to *Waterloo Bridge. This bridge, one of the finest in the world, was built by John Rennie for a company in 1811-17, at a cost of over 1,000,000^ It is 460 yds. long and 42 ft. broad, and rests upon 9 arches , each of 120 ft. span and 35 ft. high , and borne by granite buttresses. It commands an admirable view of the W. part of London between Westminster and St. Paul's, of the Thames Embankment, and of the massive but well-proportioned facade of Somerset House. In 1878 the bridge was sold to the Metropolitan Board of Works for 475,000i. and opened to the public toll-free. — Waterloo Bridge Road, on the S. side of the river, leads to Waterloo Station (p. 34). On the N. side of the Strand we next observe several theatres, 10* 148 i% SOCIETY OF ARTS. includiug the Gaiety (p. 40) and the Lyceum (p. 40). Beyond these, hetween Burleigh Street and Exeter Street (commemorating Exeter House, the residence of Queen Elizabeth's Lord Chancel- lor), is Exeter Hall, marked by its Corinthian portico, and capable of containing 5000 persons. It is the property of the Young Men's Christian Association and used for the advocacy of religious and philanthropic movements (the large annual 'May Meetings' of va- rious religious societies being held here). To the left is Savoy Street, leading to the Savoy Chapel, de- dicated to St. John the Baptist , and built in the Perpendicular style in 1505-11, during the reigns of Henry VII. and Henry VIII., on the site of the ancient Savoy Palace. The chapel, which is one of the Chapels Royal, was seriously injured by lire in 1864, hut restored at the expense of Queen Victoria. The handsome wooden ceiling is modern. Bishop Gavin Douglas of Dunkeld (d. 1522), the poetical translator of Virgil, is buried in the chancel (with brass), and George Wither (d. 1667), the poet, was also buried here. Fine stained glass. Savoy Palace was first built in 1245, and was given by Henry III. to Peter, Count of Savoy, the uncle of his queen, Eleanor of Provence. The captive King John of France died here in 1364, and Chaucer was probably married here when the palace was occupied by John of Gaunt. It lay between the present chapel and the river, but has entirely disappeared. At the Savoy, in the time of Cromwell, the Independents adopted a Confession of Faith , and here the celebrated 'Savoy Con- ference' for the revision of the Prayer Book was held, when Baxter, Calamy, and others represented the Nonconformists. The German chapel which used to stand contiguous to the Savoy Chapel was removed in widening Savoy Street, which now forms a thoroughfare to the Thames Embankment. The French Protestants who conformed to the English church had a chapel here from the time of Charles II. till 1737. See Memorials of the Savoi/, by the Rev. W. J. Loftie (Macmillan; 1878). Farther on, to the left, is Terry's Theatre (p. 41), beyond which Beaufort Buildings leads to the Savoy Theatre (p. 40). At No. 13 Cecil Street, to the left, Sir W. Congreve (d. 1828),. the inventor of the Congreve Rocket, resided and made his experi- ments, firing the rockets across the Thames. A little to the N. of this part of the Strand lies Covent Garden Market (p. 186). On the right, between Southampton Street and Bedford Street, is the Vaudeville Theatre (p. 41) ; beyond it, the Adelphi Theatre (p. 40). In Bedford Street is a store of the Civil Service Supply Association (p. 26). To the S. of the Strand, opposite the Adelphi Theatre, is the region known as 'the Adelphi', built by four brothers called Adam, whose names are commemorated in Adam St., John St., Robert St., James St., and William St., and in the Adelphi Terrace. In John St. rises the building of the Society of Arts (PI. R, 30 ; //), an association established in 1754 for the encouragement of arts, manufactures, and commerce, which took a prominent part in promoting the Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862. The large hall (open daily, 10-4, except Wednes- days and Saturdays) contains six paintings by Barry (1777-83), re- presenting the progress of civilisation. No. 14 in the same street is the headquarters of the Royal National Life Boat Institution, 13. TRAFALGAR SQUARE. 149 founded in 1824 and supported entirely by voluntary contributions. TMs society now possesses a fleet of 311 life-boats stationed round the British coasts , and in 1893 was instrumental in saving 598 lives and 27 vessels. The total number of lives saved through the agency of the Institution from its foundation down to 1889 was above 37,855. The expenditure of the society in 1893 was 83,035i. The average cost of establishing a life-boat station is 1050i., and the annual expense of maintaining it 70l. — Adelphi Terrace , overlooking the Thames and the Embankment , contains the house in which David Garrlck died in 1779 (tablet). Nos. 6 and 7 in this terrace are occupied by the Savage Club; and No. 5 by the Royal Statistical Society. On the right, where King William Street joins the Strand, stands the Charing Cross Hospital; and in King William Street are the Ophthalmic Hospital and Toole's The- atre (p. 41). A little farther on, in the Strand, on the right hand, is the Lowther Arcade (p. 24), and on the left is Coutts^s Bank, a very noted firm, at which the royal family has banked for nearly 200 years. At the W. end of the Strand, on the left, is Charing Cross Station (with a large Hotel, p. 6), the West End terminus of the South-Eastern Railway (p. 32) , built by Barry on the site of Hungerford Market, where the mansion of Sir Edward Hungerford stood until it was burned down in 1669. In front of it stands a mod- ern copy of Eleanor s Cross, a Gothic monument erected in 1291 by Edward I. at Charing Cross, near the spot where the coffin of his consort was set down during its last halt on the way to Westminster Abbey. The original was removed by order of Parliament in 1647. The river is here crossed by the Charing Cross Railway Bridge, on one side of which is a foot-way (freed from toll in 1878). — To the E. of the station is Villiers Street, which descends to the Em- bankment Gardens (p. 115) and to the Charing Cross Station (p. 32) of the Metropolitan Railway. — Benjamin Franklin lived at No. 7 Craven Street (denoted by a memorial tablet), to the W. of the station. 13. Trafalgar Square. Nelson Column. St. Martin's in the Fields. Charing Cross. *Trafalgar Square (PI. R, 26 ; //, IV), one of the finest open places in London and a great centre of attraction, is, so to speak, dedicated to Lord Nelson, and commemorates his glorious death at the battle of Trafalgar (22nd Oct., 1805), gained by the English fleet over the combined armaments of France and Spain. By this victory Na- poleon's purpose of invading England was frustrated. The ambitious Emperor had assembled at Boulogne an army of 172,000 infantry and 9000 cavalry, and also 2413 transports to convey his soldiers to England, but his fleet, which he had been building for many years at an enormous cost, and which was to have covered his passage of 150 13. ST. MARTIN'S IN THE FIELD'S. the Channel, was destroyed by Nelson at this famous battle. The Admiral is, therefore, justly revered as the saviour of his country. In the centre of the square rises the massive granite Column, 145 ft. in height, to the memory of the hero. It is a copy of one of the Corinthian columns of the temple of Mars Ultor , the avenging god of war, at Rome, and is crowned with a Statue of Nelson, by jBai7t/ , 17 ft. in height. The pedestal is adorned with reliefs in bronze , cast with the metal of captured French cannon. On the N, face is a scene from the battle of Aboukir (1798) ; Nel- son, wounded in the head , declines to be assisted out of his turn by a surgeon who has been dressing the wounds of a common sailor. On the E. side is the battle of Copenhagen (1801) ; Nelson is re- presented as sealing upon a cannon the treaty of peace with the conquered Danes. On the S. is the death of Nelson at Trafalgar (22nd Oct., 1805) ; beside the dying hero is Captain Hardy, com- mander of the Admiral's flag-ship. Below is Nelson's last com- mand : 'England expects every man will do his duty'. On the W. side is a representation of Nelson receiving the sword of the Span- ish commander after the battle of St. Yincent (1797). — Four colossal bronze lions , modelled by Sir Edwin Landseer (d. 1871) in 1867, couch upon pedestals running out from the column in the form of a cross. — The monument was erected in 1843 by voluntary con- tributions at a total cost of about 45,000f. Towards the N. side of the square, which is paved with asphalt, are two fountains. A Statue of Sir Henry Havelock, the deliverer of Lucknow (d. 1857), by Behnes, stands on the E. (Strand) side of the Nelson Column, and a Statue of Sir Charles James Napier, the conqueror of Scinde (d. 1853), by Adams, on the other. The N.E. corner of the square is occupied by an Equestrian Statue ofOeorge IV.j in bronze by Chantrey. Between the fountains is a Statue of Gen^ eral Gordon (d. 1885), by Hamo Thorneycroft, erected in 1888. On the terrace on the N. side of the square rises the National Gallery (p. 152), adjoined hy the National Portrait Gallery (p. 152). Near it, on the E., is the church of St. Martin in the Fields, with a noble Grecian portico, erected in 1721-26 by Gibbs, on the site of an earlier church. Nell Gwynne (d. 1687), Farquhar the dramatist (d. 1707), Roubiliac the sculptor (d. 1762), and James Smith (d. 1839), one of the authors of 'Rejected Addresses', were buried in the churchyard. The bells are still rung once a week, in terms of a legacy left by Nell Gwynne. Adjoining Morley's Hotel, on the E. side of the square, is the build- ing of the Royal Humane Society, founded in 1774 for the rescue of drowning persons. This valuable society possesses a model house on the N. bank of the Serpentine in Hyde Park, containing models of the best appliances for saving life, and apparatus for aiding bathers and skaters who may be in danger. It also awards prizes and medals to persons who have saved others from drowning. 13. CHARING CROSS. 151 Down to 1874 Northumberland House, the noble mansion of the Duke of NorthumlDerland, with the lion of the Percies high above the gates, rose on the S.E. side of Trafalgar Square. It was purchas- ed in 1873 by the Metropolitan Board of Works for 497,000^., and was removed to make way for Northumberland Avenue, a broad new street from Charing Cross to the Thames Embankment (comp. p. 115). The Grand Hotel (p. 6) occupies part of the site. Two other large hotels, the Hotel Metr op ole and the Hotel Victoria, have been built on the opposite side of Northumberland Avenue. Next door to the Grand Hotel is the Constitutional Club, a handsome building of red and yellow terracotta in the style of the German Renaissance, erected in 1886. At the corner of Northumberland Avenue and Whitehall Place, facing the Thames, is the magnificent new build- ing of the National Liberal Club , opened in 1887. One of the most attractive features of this imposing edifice is the spacious flagged terrace overlooking the Embankment Gardens and the river. On the W. side of Trafalgar Square, between Cockspur Street and Pall Mall East, is the Union Club (p. 74j, adjoining which is the Royal College of Physicians, built by «Smirfce in 1825, and containing a number of portraits and busts of celebrated London physicians. Charing Cross (PI. R, 26, and IV; probably so called from the village of Cherringe which stood here in the 13th cent.), on the S. side of Trafalgar Square, between the Strand and Whitehall, is the principal point of intersection of the omnibus lines of the West End, and the centre of the 4 and 12 miles circles on the Post Office Di- rectory Map. The Equestrian Statue of Charles I. , by Le Sueur, which stands here, is remarkable for the vicissitudes it has undergone. It was cast in 1633, but had not yet been erected when the Civil War broke out. It was then sold by the Parliament to a brazier, named John Rivet, for the purpose of being melted down, and this worthy sold pretended fragments of it both to friends and foes of the Stuarts. At the Restoration , however , the statue was produced uninjured, and in 1674 it was erected on the spot where Eleanor s Cross (p. 149) had stood down to 1647. In Hartshorn Lane, an adjoining street , Ben Jonson , when a boy , once lived with his mother and her second husband, a bricklayer. Charing Cross Road (PI. R, 27), a great and much needed thoroughfare from Charing Cross to Tottenham Court Road, cuts through a number of low streets and alleys to theN. of St. Martin's Church. At the S. end of this street, to the left, is the new National Portrait Gallery (p. 152), and to the right are a new Savings Bank, the St. Martin's Vestry Hall and Public Library, and the Garrick The- atre (p. 41). Farther up are some large blocks of Industrial Dwel- lings, and the Welsh Presbyterian Chapel (on the left). The road then expands into Cambridge Circus, in which is the handsome facade of the Palace Music Hall (p. 42), erected as the Royal Eng- lish Opera House in 1891. In the section of Charing Cross Road to 152 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. the N. of the Circus is the church of St. Mary the Virgin, Soho, on the site of the first Greek church in London (1677), part of which is still standing (see Greek inscription over the W. door). The church, which was afterwards occupied by a French congregation, contains some old stained glass and a good Crucifixion, in marble, by Miss Grant. — Shaftesbury Avenue, another wide street open- ed in 1886, runs from Piccadilly Circus , past the Lyric and. the Shaftesbury Theatres (p. 41), to meet Charing Cross Road at Cam- bridge Circus, and is prolonged to New Oxford Street opposite Hart Street, Bloomsbury. 14. The National Gallery. Among the buildings round Trafalgar Square the principal in point of size, although perhaps not in architectural merit, is the **National Gallery (PI. R, 26; i/), situated on a terrace on the N. side, and erected in 1832-38, at an original costof 96,000i., on the site of the old King's Mews. The building, designed by Wilkins, is in the Grecian style, and has a facade 460 ft. in length. The Gallery was considerably altered and enlarged in 1860; an extensive ad- dition (including the central octagon) was made by Mr. E. M. Barry in 1876; and five other rooms, including a gallery 85 ft. long, were opened in 1887. At the back of the National Gallery the new National Portrait Gallery (p. 132) has been erected, with a facade towards Charing Cross Road, and will probably be opened in 1894. The nucleus of the Xatiou:il Gallery, which was formed by Act of Par- liament in 1824, consisted solely of the Angerstein collection of 38 pictures. It has, however, been rapidly and greatly extended by means of dona- tions, legacies, and purchases, and is now composed of some 1400 pictures, about llOO of which are exhibited in the 22 rooms of the Gallery, while the others are lent to provincial collections. Among the most important additions have been the collections presented or bequeathed by Robert Vernon (1847), J. M. W. Turner (1856), and Wynn Ellis (1876); and the Peel collection, bought in 1871. For a long period part of the building was occupied by the Royal Academy of Arts, which, however, was removed to Burlington House (p. 229) in 1869. The National Collection has since been wholly re-arranged, and is now entirely under one roof. (This is, of course quite distinct from the national collections at South Kensington.) — In 1893 the National Gallery was visited on the free days by 486,746 persons, being a daily average of 2351, and on the pay-days (Thurs. and Frid.) by 3S,1)76 persons, besides 20,936 students. From the number of artists represented, the collection in the National Gallery is exceedingly valuable to students of the history of art. The older Italian masters are especially important. The catalogues prepared by Mr. Wornum (d. 1877), the late keeper of the Gallery, and re-issued with corrections and additions by Sir F. W. Burton in 1889 (Foreign Schools Is., abridgment iid. ; British School 6d.), comprise short biographies of the different artists. The 'Pall Mall Gazette Guide to the National Gallery' (6d.; sold outside the doors) contains a descriptive catalogue and a scheme for studying the gallery in a series of twelve 'half-holiday visits'. Air. E. T. Cook''s 'Popular Handbook to the National Gallery' (Macmillan* Co., 3rd ed. 1891) includes an interesting collection of notes on the pictures by Mr. Ruskin and others. See also Br. J. P. Richter's 'Italian Art in the National Gallery' (1883). Each picture is inscribed with the name of the painter, the year of his birth and death, the school to which he belongs, and the subject repre- 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 153 sented. The present director is Mr. E. J. Poynier^ R. -4., and the keeper and secretary is Mr. Charles Eastlake. — Photographs of the paintings, by Morelli, are sold in the gallery at prices ranging from Is. to 10s. Those taken by Braun & Cie.., of Dornach and Paris, and by the Berlin Photo- graphic Co. are, however, better; the former (6-125.) may be obtained at the Autotype Fine Art Gallery, 74 New Oxford Street, while the latter (is.Qd. each, 15*. per dozen) are sold by J. Gerson, 5 Rathbone Place, Oxford Street. Admission to the Gallery, see p. 78. — Thursday and Friday are students' days. The Gallery is closed for cleaning on the Thurs- day, Friday, and Saturday before Easter Sunday. Sticks and um- brellas are left at the entrance (no charge). The pictures are arranged in schools , with as close adherence as possible to a chronological order. The main staircase facing us as we enter ascends to Room I., in which begins the series of Italian works. The staircase to the left leads to the Modern British Schools ; that on the right to the Older British and the French Schools. The Hall contains a marble statue of Sir David "Wilkie (d. 1841), with his palette let into the pedestal, hy Joseph ; busts of the paint- ers W. Mulready (d. 1863) and Th. Stothard (d. 1834), by Weekes; and busts of Samuel Johnson (by Baity, after Nollekens'), Canning (also by Baily, after Nollekens'), Bewick (by Gibson), and Newton (by Baily, after Roubiliac). On the walls are two large landscapes with cattle by James Ward, the Battle of the Borodino by Jones, a forest-scene by Salvator Rosa, and a cast of a bust of Mantegna by Sperandio. At the top of the staircase to the right are busts of Wellington by Nollekens and Scott by Chantrey; at the foot, busts of Marquis Wellesley by Bacon and Grace Darling by Dunbar. To the left is a staircase descending to a room containing wafer-colours by 2>e Wint, Cattermole, etc., crayon studies by Gainsborough, drawings by Wm. Blake, etc. In another room are Watercolour Drawings from paint- ings by early Italian and other masters, published and lent by theArundel Society. Other rooms contain copies of paintings by Velazquez at Madrid and by Rembrandt at St. Petersburg. To the right is a flight of steps (with a bronze bust of Napoleon at the top) desceoding to the collection of Turner'' s Water- Colours (catalogue by Ruskin, Is.). Another room, through which we pass to reach the Turner Collection, contains sev- eral paintings belonging J f to the National Portrait Gallery (p. 132). Among these are two large paint- ings : The House of Com- mons in 1793, by Karl Anton Hickel (presented by the Emp. of Austria in 1885), and a fine 'Work 154 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. by Marcus Oheeraedts, representing a group of eleven statesmen, assembled at Somerset House in 1604 to ratify a commercial treaty between England, Spain, and the Netherlands. Among the single portraits, which include specimens of Lelp, Gainsborough, Bobson, Richmond, and others, is one of George Washington, by Oilbert Stuart. The Vestibule of the Main Staircase is roofed "by a glass dome and embellislied with marble columns and panelling, of green 'cipollino', 'giallo aiitico', 'pavonazzetto', etc. Here are hung several large paintings of the British School. To the left (W.) : 1372. John J. Halls, Admiral Sir George Cockburn ; 789. Thomas Gainsborough (one of the most eminent of English portrait-painters ; d. 1788), Family group ; 1146. Sir Henry Eaebiirn (Scottish School; d. 1823), Portrait of a lady; 308. Gainsborough, Musidora (from Thomson's 'Summer'); 1228. Fuseli(d. 1825), Titania and Bottom ; 1394. Ford Madox Brown, Christ washing Peter's feet. To the right (E.): 1396. i^omney. Portraits; *143. JSei/noZds, Equestrian portrait of Lord Ligonier; 681. Reynolds, Capt. Orme; 684. Gainsborough, Dr. Schomberg; 144. Sir Thomas Lawrence (d. 1830), Benjamin West, the painter; 677. Sir Martin Shee (d. 1850), Portrait of the actor Lewis as the Marquis in the 'Midnight Hour'. — In the North Vestibule (see Plan) are : in the centre, an antique head of the Dying Alexander, in porphyry; to the right, three frescoes (Nos.766, 767, 1215) by Domenico Veneziano (d. 1461), and an Angel adoring (No. 927), by Fil. Lippi; to the left, three fragments of frescoes (Nos. 1216-1216b) by Spinello Aretino (Tuscan School; d. 1410), and eleven interesting Greek portraits of the 2nd and 3rd cent, from mummies found in the Fayoum. [A mummy with a portrait of this kind may be seen at the British Museum; p. 258.] Room I., lighted from above, is devoted to the Florentine School. — To the left: 248. Fil. Lippi, Vision of St. Bernard; 1150. Attributed to Pontormo [Carucci; d. 1557), Portrait; *592. Ascribed to Filippino Lippi, Adoration of the Magi, in the manner of Botticelli-^ 17. A. del Sarto (school-piece), Holy Family; *1282. Jacopo Chimenti da Empoli (1554-1640), San Zenobio restoring a dead child to life; 1143. Ridolfo Ghirlandajo (son of the more famous Domenico Ghirlandajo ; 1483-1561), Christ on the way to Golgotha ; 809. In the manner of Michael Angela, Madonna and In- fant Christ , with John the Baptist and angels (unfinished) ; 727. Pesellino (d. 1457), Trinita; 790. Michael Angela Buonarotti (1475- 1564), Entombment (unfinished and youthful work; in tempera, on wood). *296. School of Verrochio , Virgin adoring the Infant Christ, with angels. This painting is executed with great carefulness, but the conception of the forms and proportions is hardly worthy of a master of the first rank, such as Verrocchio, to whom some critics assign the work. 1323. Bronzino, Piero de' Medici; 1194. Marcello Venusti (follower of Michael Angelo ; d. ca. 1570), Jesus expelling the money-changers from the Temple; S. Aftei Michael Angelo, A dream 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 155 of human life; *593. Lorenzo di Credi (Florence, pupil of Ver- roccMo at the same time as Leonardo da Vinci ; d. 1537), Madonna and Child. — *292. Pollajuolo, Martyrdom of St. Sebastian. This picture was painted in 1475 for the altar of the Pucci chapel, in the church of San Sebastiano de' Servi at Florence, and according to Vasari is the artisfs masterpiece. The head of the saint, which is of great beauty, is the portrait of a Capponi. 648. Credi, Virgin adoring the Infant (in his hest style); 781. School of Verrocchio, The archangel Raphael and Tobias; *293. Fi- lippino Lippi (pupil of Botticelli ; d. 1504), Madonna and Child, with SS. Jerome and Dominic, an altar-piece with predella (rich landscape); 1035. Francidbigio (d. 1524), A Knight of Malta. 1181. Pontormo, Joseph and his Brethren; according to Vasari. the boy seated on the steps, with a basket, is a portrait of Bronzino. 650. Brcnzino, Portrait; 1124. i^i7ij?;)mo Lippi (school-piece), Adoration of the Magi. *1093. Ascribed to Leonardo da Vinci (1462-1519), Madonna and Child, with John the Baptist and an angel, resembling 'La Vierge aux Rochers' in the Louvre, bought from the Earl of Suffolk in 1881 for 9000i. 670. Bronzino, Knight of St. Stephen; 649. Ascribed to Pon- tormo, Portrait of a boy, in the style of Bronzino (probably a youth- ful work of the latter) ; *690. Andrea del Sarto (the greatest master of the school; 1486-1531), Portrait, a masterpiece of chiaroscuro; 698. Piero di Cosimo (pupil of Cosimo Rosselli and teacher of A. del Sarto; d. ca. 1521), Death of Procris, in a beautiful landscape. — 651. Bronzino, Venus, Cupid, Folly, and Time, an allegory. 'Bronzino painted a picture of remarkable beauty, which was sent into France to King Francis. In this picture was pourtrayed a naked Venus together with Cupid, who was kissing her. On the one side were Pleasure and Mirth, with other Powers of Love, and on the other Deceit, Jealousy, and other Passions of Love.' — Vasari. *915. Sandro Botticelli (A. 1510), Mars and Venus; 895. Piero di Cosimo, Portrait of a warrior; 589. School of Fra Filippo Lippi, Madonna and Child, with an angel. On a Scbeen: 275. School of Botticelli, Madonna and Child, a circular picture in a fine old frame; 928. Pollajuolo, Apollo and Daphne. Boom II. SiENESE AKD OTHER Tuscan Masteks. To the left : 246. Oirolamo del Pacchia (d. after 1535), Madonna and Child; 591. Benozzo Oozzoli (school-piece) , Rape of Helen ; Duccio di Buoninsegna (founder of the school of Siena ; d. about 1339), 1140. Christ healing the blind, 1139. Annunciation; 1317. Early Sienese School, Marriage of the Virgin; 1199. Florentine School of the 1 5th cent. , Madonna and Child, with John the Baptist and an angel ; 218. Baldassare Perwzzi (Siena; d. 1537), Adoration of the Magi; 1331. Bernardino Fungai (d. 1516), Virgin and Child surrounded by cherubim ; 227. Rosselli (school-piece) , Various saints (names 156 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. on the original frame). — 283. Benozzo Gozzoli (pupil, of Fra Angelico; d. 1493), Virgin and Child enthroned, with saints. 'The original contract for this picture , dated 23d Oct. 1461 , is still preserved. The figure of the Virgin is in this contract specially directed to be made similar in mode, form, and ornaments to the Virgin En- throned, in the picture over the high-altar of San Marco, Florence, by Fra Giovanni (Angelico) da Fiesole, and now in the Academy there'. — Catalogue. *663. Fra Angelico da Fiesole (d. 1455), Christ with the banner of the Resurrection, surrounded by a crowd of saints, martyrs, and Dominicans, 'so beautiful', says Vasari, 'that they appear to be truly beings of Paradise'; 586. Ascribed to Fra Filippo Lippi, Madonna enthroned. — *566. Duccio di Buoninsegna, Madonna and Child. 'A genuine picture, which illustrates how well the master could vivify Byzantine forms with tender feeling". 582. Fra Angelico (school-piece). The Magi ; 1155. Matteo di Giovanni da Siena (d. 1493) , Assumption , the Virgin throwing down her girdle as a proof to the incredulous St. Thomas ; 1330. Buoninsegna^ Transfiguration; 1147. Ambr og io Lorenzetti (Siensk] d. ca. 1348) , Heads of saints (a fragment of a fresco); 909. Ben- venuto da Siena (c. 1520), Madonna and Child. Room III. Florentine Schools. To the left : 782. Botticelli, (school-piece), Madonna and Child; *666. Fra Filippo Lippi (d. 1496), Annunciation, painted like No. 667 for Cosimo de' Medici and marked with his crest ; 598. Filippino Lippi (?) , St. Francis in glory; 916. BofficeZfi (school-piece), Venus and Cupid ; *583. Paolo Uccello (d. 1479), Cavalry engagement at S. Egidio (1416), one of the earliest Florentine representations of a secular subject; 1196. Tuscan School, Amor and Castitas; 1230. Domenico del Ohir- landajo (1449-94), Portrait of a lady ; 1033. Filippino Lippi (more probably Botticelli; comp. No. 592), Adoration of the Magi; 626. Botticelli^ Young man ; no number, *Dom. Ghirlandajo, Portrait of a lady ('the lovely Benci' of Longfellow ; lent by Mr. Henry Willett). H03L Botticelli , The Nativity, to the left the Magi , to the right the Shepherds, in front shepherds embraced by angels. The subject is conceived in a manner highly mystical and symbolical. At the top of the picture is a Greek inscription to the following effect : 'This picture I, Alessandro, painted at the end of the year 1500, in the (troubles) of Italy in the half-time after the time during the fulfilment of the eleventh of St. John in the second woe of the Apocalypse, in the loosing of the devil for three years and a half. Afterwards he shall be chained and vs^e shall see him trodden down as in this picture". 1299. Dom, Ghirlandajo (?) , Portrait of a youth (school-piece, much restored). — 1126. Botticelli, Assumption of the Virgin. In the centre of the upper part of the picture is the Virgin, kneeling before the Saviour, while around are cycles or tiers of angels, apostles, saints, and seraphim. Below are the apostles gathered round the tomb of the Virgin, with portraits of the Palmieri, the donors of the altar- piece. The picture was probably executed by a pupil from a cartoon by Botticelli. In the background are Florence and Fiesole, with the Villa Palmieri. *667. Fra Filippo Lippi, SS. John the Baptist, Francis, Lawrence, 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 157 Cosmas , Damianus , Anthony , and Peter the Martyr, sitting on a marble "beucli (painted for Cosimo de' Medici, 1266-1336); 226. School of Botticelli, Madonna and Child, with John the Baptist and angels, with a rose-hedge in the background; 1301. Florentine School, Head of Savonarola. Boom IV. Early Italian School. The pictures in this room are mainly of historical interest. Neither Giotto (1266-1336), the chief founder of Italian painting, nor his pupils are represented by authen- ticated works, but there are several fine works of the 14th century. 'The early efforts of Cimabue and Giotto are the burning messages of prophecy, delivered by the stammering lips of infants'. — Ruskin. To the left: School of Taddeo Gaddi (d. after 1366), 215, 216. Saints. 594. Emmanuel (Greek priest ; Byzantine School), SS. Cosmas and Damianus (one of the earliest pictures in the Gal- lery in point of artistic development) ; 573-575. Andrea Orcagna (Florentine School ; d. 1376), Three small pictures belonging to the large altar-piece. No. 569 ; 276. Ascribed to Giotto (d. 1336), Heads of Apostles; 569. Orcagna, Coronation of the Yirgin, with saints (large altar-piece from the church of San Pietro Maggiore in Flor- ence ; school-piece) ; 701. Justus of Padua (School of Giotto ; d. 1400), Coronation of the Virgin, dated 1367 (a small triptych, of cheerful, soft, and well-blended colouring) ; 567. Segna di Buena- ventura (Sienese School; ca. 1310), Christ on the Cross; 576-578. Orcagna, Three other pictures belonging to No. 569; 580a, 579 a. Terminal panels of 580 and 579 (see below); 568. School of Giotto (ca. 1330), Coronation of the Virgin ; 579. School of Taddeo Gaddi, Baptism of Christ ; 565. Giov. Cimabue (b. 1240 ; Tuscan School), Madonna and Child enthroned ; 581. Spinello Aretino, John the Bap- tist, with SS. John the Evangelist and James the Less; 564. Mar- garitone (d. 1293), Virgin and Child, with scenes from the lives of the saints ; 570-572. Orcagna, Trinity, with angels adoring, be- longing to No. 569; 1406. Fra Angelica (school-piece). Annun- ciation ; 580. Jacopo di Casentino (d. ca. 1390), St. John the Evan- gelist lifted up into Heaven. Boom V. Schools of Ferraba and Bologna. To the left : Cosimo Tura (Ferrara ; 1420-98), 773. St. Jerome in the wilderness ; 772. Madonna and Child, with angels; 597. Fr. Cossa (end of 15th cent.), St. Hyacinth; 82. Mazzolino da Ferrara (1480-1528), Holy Family. — *1119. Ercole di Giulio Grandi (Ferrara; d. 1531), Ma- donna enthroned , with John the Baptist and St. William ; the throne is adorned with sculptural panels (a masterpiece). — Btn- venuto Tisio, surnamed Garofalo (d. 1559), *81. Vision of St. Au- gustine; 170. Holy Family; *671. Madonna and Child enthroned, surrounded by SS. William, Clara, Francis, and Anthony (altar- pieces, destitute of the charm of colouring seen in his smaller works). — 590. Marco Zoppo, Dead Christ, with John the Baptist and Joseph of Arimathea ; 770. Giovanni Oriole (Ferrara ; d. after 158 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 1461), Leonello d'Este, Marqnis of Ferrara (d.l450); 1127. Ercole di Roberto Orandi (d. before 1513), Last Supper; 638. Fr. Francia, Madonna and Child, with saints ; *629. Lorenzo Costa [teacher of Franoia; d. 1535), Madonna enthroned, dated 1505. Francesco Francia {Raibolini, early school of Bologna, also a goldsmith; d. 1517), 638. Madonna and Child with two saints, 179. Virgin enthroned and St. Anne, *180. Pietk (the lunette of No. 179). These two pictures are the finest specimens of the school in the col- lection. 771. Bono di Ferrara (15th cent.), St. Jerome in the desert; 169. Mazzolino (Ferrara; d. 1530), Holy Family; 752. Dalmasio (end of the 14th cent.). Madonna and Child; 641. Mazzolino, The Woman taken in adultery; 669. OrfoZano (Ferrara ; d. ca. 1525), SS. Sebastian, Rochus, and Demetrius; 1234. Dosso Dossi{^), Al- legorical group ; 1217. Ercole di Roberto Grandi, Israelites gather- ing manna. RoomVI. Umbeian ScHooii. To the left: 912-914. Pinturicchio (Umbrian school-piece). Illustrations of the story of Griselda (the last in Boccaccio's Decameron). Melozzo da Forli (d. 1494), 756. Music, 755. Rhetoric (similar representations at Berlin); 1304. Umbrian School (16th cent.), Marcus Curtius(?); 703. Bernardino Pinturicchio (d. 1513), Ma- donna and Child; 1103. Fiorenzo di Lorenzo (end of 15th cent.), Madonna and saints (lucid colouring) ; 249. Lorenzo da San Seve- rino (second half of the 15th cent.), Marriage of St. Catharine; 769. Fra Carnovale (ca. 1480), St. Michael and the serpent; 1107. Niccolb da Foligno {Alunno ; end of the 15th cent.). The Passion, a triptych; 1051. Umbrian School, Our Lord, St. Thomas, and St. Anthony of Padua, the Donor kneeling to the right; 929. After Raphael, Madonna and Child, old copy of the Bridgewater Ma- donna; *288. Perugino (Pietro Vannucci, the master of Raphael ; d. 1523), Madonna adoring the Infant, with the archangel Michael on the left and Raphael with Tobias on the right (a masterpiece) ; QQ3. Pinturicchio, St. Catharine of Alexandria; 1220. Vlngegno, Madonna and Child; 1032. Lo Spagna, Agony in the Garden. **2iS. Raphael (Sanzio ; 1483-1520), Vision of a knight (a youth- ful work, as fine in its execution as it is tender in its conception). This little gem reveals the influence of Eaphaers early master Ti- moteo Viti, without a trace of the later manner learned from Perugino. The original *Cartoon hangs beneath. 'Two allegorical female figures, representing respectively the noble ambitions and the joys of life, appear to a young knight lying asleep beneath a laurel, and offer him his choice of glory or pleasure". — Passavant. **1171. Raphael, Mdidonna, degli Ansidei, bought from the Duke of Marlborough in 1884 for 70,000^., the largest sum ever given for a picture. This Holy Family was painted by Raphael in 1506 for the chapel of the Ansidei family in the Servite church at Perugia. In 1764 it was 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 159 purchased by Lord Robert Spencer, brother of the third Duke of Marl- borough. The two figures flanking the Virgin are those of John the Baptist and St. Nicholas of Bari , the latter represented in his epis- copal robes. The small round loaves at his feet refer to his rescue of the town of Myra from famine. In the background is a view of the Tuscan hills. From the canopy hangs a rosary. — This great work, the moat important example of Raphael in the country, was executed under the influence of Perugino and is in admirable preservation. *744. Raphael, Madonna, Infant Christ, and St. John (the 'Aldobrandini' or 'Garvagh Madonna']. 'The whole has a delicate, harmonious effect. The flesh, which is yellowish in the lights, and lightish brown in the shadows, agrees ex- tremely well with the pale broken rose-colour of the under garment, and the delicate bluish grey of the upper garment of the Virgin. In the seams and glories gold is used, though very delicately. The execution is particularly careful, and it is in an excellent state of preservation". — Waagen, ^Treasures of Art in Great Britain'. This work belongs to Raphael's later period, and some authorities be- lieve he painted it with the aid of his pupils. *168. Raphael, St. Catharine of Alexandria, painted in the master's Florentine period. 'In form and feeling no picture of the master approaches nearer to it than the Entombment in the Borghese Palace, which is inscribed 1507.'' — W. 181. Perugino, Madonna and Child; 751. Giovanni 8anti{\]m- brian painter and poet, Raphael's father ; d. 1494) , Madonna ; *1075. Perugino, Virgin and Child, -with SS. Jerome and Francis (of the artist's later period ; 27. Raphael, Pope Julius II. (an old copy of the original in Florence) ; 596. Palmezzano (pupil of Me- lozzo; d. after 1537), Entombment. Signorelli (d. 1523), *1128. Circumcision, a dramatic composition (the figure of the child has been altered by repainting); 1133. Adoration of the Holy Child (school-piece?). 646, 647. Unknown (15th cent.) , St. Catharine, St. Ursula ; 908. Piero della Francesca (ca. 1460), Nativity (injured) ; 911. Pinturicchio, Return of Ulysses, or Lucretia and Collatinus (fresco from Siena, about 1509); 1218, 1219. Francesco Ubertini, surnamed Bacchiacca (Florence; d. 1557), History of Joseph; 758. Ascribed to P. della Francesca (?), Portrait of a lady. Piero della Francesco, 665. Baptism of Christ; 585. Portrait. 910. Ascribed to Signorelli (more probably by Genga da TJrhino), Triumph of Chas- tity, a fresco ; 282. Lo Spagna (? more probably by Bertucci of Faenza, a contemporary belonging to the Eclectic School), Madonna and Child enthroned. Temporarily placed on Screens in this room are : 1316. Moroni, Italian nobleman; 1315. Velazquez, Admiral Pulido Pareja; *1314. Holbein the Younger, The Ambassadors. These three pictures were purchased from Lord Radnor in 1890 for 55,000?. The so-called 'Ambassadors', the only example of Holbein (1497- 1543) in the Gallery, was long thought to represent Sir Thomas Wyatt (on the left) and Leland, the antiquary (on the right); but it is supposed that the figure on the left is Jean de Dinteville, French ambassador in London in 1533, and that the other is the contemporary poet Nicholas Bourbon. The curious object in the foreground is the distorted projection of a skull, as will be seen when viewed diagonally from the right. 160 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. Boom VII. Venetian and Brescian Schools. To the left: *735. P. Moranda (^Cavazzola ; the most important master in Verona before Paolo Veronese ; d. 1522), St. Rochus with the angel, an excellent specimen of his work ; *625. Moretto (Alessandro Bon- vicino, the greatest painter of Brescia; d. about 1560), Madonna and Child, with saints; Montagna (J) ^ 802, 1098. Madonna and Child; *748. Girolamo dai Libri (Verona ; d. 1556), Madonna and Child, with St. Anne, clear in colour and harmonious in tone, heralding the style of Paolo Veronese; 1023. Giambattista Moroni [portrait- painter at Bergamo, pupil of Moretto; d. 1578), Portrait of a lady. Above, P. Veronese, 1325. Respect, 1324. Scorn, 1318. Unfaithful- ness , 1326. Happy union, a series of allegorical groups from a ceil- ing decoration. *16. Tintoretto (Jacopo Robusti,YeniGe ; d. ibdA), St. George and the Dragon (an early work) ; 287. Bart. Vene- ziano (rare Venetian master, first half of the 16th cent.), Portrait, painted in 1530 (rich in colour) ; 595. Venetian School, Portrait; 26. Paolo Veronese^d. 1588), Consecration of St. Nicholas; 1041. Paolo Veron€se(;>\ St. Helena; 34. Titian {Tiziano Vecellio ; 1477-1576), Venus and Adonis (an early copy of the original in Madrid); *1022. Moroni, Nobleman; 224. Titian, The Tribute Money (school-piece). — *4. Titian, Holy Family, with adoring shepherd. This brilliantly coloured picture is an early work of the master and is painted in the manner afterwards adopted by his pupil Palma Vecchio. *1. Sebastian del Piombo (of Venice, follower of Michael Angelo ; d. 1547), Raising of Lazarus. 'The transition from death to life is expressed in Lazarus with won- derful spirit, and at the same time with perfect fidelity to Scripture. The grave-clothes, by which his face is thrown into deep shade, vividly excite the idea of the night of the grave, which but just before enveloped him; the eye looking eagerly from beneath this shade upon Christ his Redeemer, shows us, on the other hand, in the most striking contrast, the new life in its most intellectual organ. This is also expressed in the. whole figure , which is actively striving to relieve itself from the bonds in which it was fast bound'. — W. The picture was painted in 1517-19 in competition with Raphaers Transfiguration. The figure of Lazarus is quite in the spirit of Michael Angelo. 20. Sebastian del Piombo, Portraits of the painter with his seal ('piombo') of office in his hand, and Cardinal Ippolito de' Medici, painted after 1531 ; *635. Titian, Madonna and Child, with SS. John the Baptist and Catharine (the latter probably the portrait of an aristocratic lady) ; 1025. Moretto, Portrait of an Italian noble- man (1526). — *35. Titian, Bacchus and Ariadne, painted in 1523 for Alphonso, Duke of Ferrara. 'This is one of the pictures which once seen can never be forgotten .... Rich harmony of drapery tints and soft modelling, depth of shade and warm flesh all combine to produce a highly coloured glow; yet in the midst of this glow the form of Ariadne seems incomparably fair. Nature was never reproduced more kindly or with greater exuberance than it is in every part of this picture. What splendour in the contrasts of colour, what wealth and diversity of scale in air and vegetation; how infinite is the space — how varied yet mellow the gradations of light and shade!' — C. db C. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 161 24. Sebastian del Piombo, Portrait of a lady, as St. Agatha; *1031. Giovanni Girolamo Savoldo (Brescia, about 1480-1548), Mary Magdalen going to the Sepulchre (similar picture at Berlin); 816. Cima da Coneglian o (Yenice, contemporary of Bellini; d. 1503), Christ appearing to St. Thomas; 1309. Bernardino Licinio (Venice; flor. 1524-44), Portrait of a young man; 599. Basaiti{;T), Infant Christ asleep in the lap of the Virgin, with a pleasing landscape in the background (a good work of the school of Giov. Bellini); 234. Catena (Treviso , d. 1531 at Venice; a follower of Giov. Bellini), Warrior adoring the Infant Christ; 932. Italian School^ Portrait of a man; 1203. Giovanni Busi , surnamed Cariani (pupil of Palma Vecchio; d. ca. 1541), Madonna with saints. *270. Titian, Christ and Mary Magdalen after the Resurrection ('Noli me tangere'). A youthful work of the master. The slenderness of the figures, which are conceived in a dignified but somewhat mundane spirit, and the style of the landscape reveal the influence of Giorgione. *697. Moroni, Portrait of a tailor ('Tagliapanni'), a masterpiece praised by contemporary poets; 277. Jacopo Bassano {Jacopo da Ponte; d. 1592), Good Samaritan. 632, 633. Girolamo da Santacroce (Venetian School; about 1530), Saints; 623. Girolamo da Treviso (a follower of Raphael; d. 1544), Madonna and Child (mentioned by Vasari as the painter's masterpiece); 636. Palma Vecchio (d. 1528; pupil of Titian), Portrait of Ariosto. *280. Giovanni Bellini, often shortened into Giambellino (1430- 1516; the greatest Venetian painter of the 15th cent., described by Mr. Ruskin as 'the mighty Venetian master who alone of all the painters of Italy united purity of religious aim with perfection of artistical power'). Madonna of the Pomegranate. *300. Cima da Conegliano, Madonna and Child ; 1105. Lorenzo Lotto, The apostolic prothonotary Juliano ; *777. Paolo Moranda, Madonna and Child, with John the Baptist and an angel, a master- piece of this 'Raphael of Verona' ; 1123. Venetian School {i%t\i. cent.), Venus and Adonis ; 750. Vittore Carpaccio (Venice, contemporary of Giov. Bellini; d. after 1522), Madonna and Child , with the Doge Giovanni Mocenigo in adoration; 699. Lotto, Portraits of Agostino and Niccolo della Torre (1515); 7 A2. Moroni, Lawyer; 1202. Bonifacio Veronese [d. 1540), Madonna and Child, with saints ; 1213. Gentile Bellini (d. 1507), Portrait of a mathematician; *268. Paolo Veronese, Adoration of the Magi, painted in 1573 for the church of St. Sylvester at Venice. Giovanni Bellini, *726. Christ in Gethsemane, an early work revealing the influence of Mantegna, who has treated the same subject (see No. 1417) ; 812. Death of St. Peter Martyr (a late work). 694. Catena, St. Jerome in his study ; 1130. Ascribed to Tintoretto, Christ washing the feet of his dis- ciples; 3. Titian, Concert (an early work); *1 047. Xof — 1287. Dutch School, Interior of a gallery of art. "We now again pass through Room X. in order to reach — Boom XII. Peel Collection. This is a collection of Flemish and Dutch cabinet-pieces, chiefly works of the very first rank. 819. Bakhuizen, Off the mouth of the Thames; W. van de Velde, 872. Shipping, 876. Gale; *834. P. de Hooghe, Dutch Interior (broad, full, sunlight effect); 818. Bakhuizen, Coast-scene; 865. Jan van de Cappelle (marine-painter of the 17th cent., at Amsterdam under the influence of Rembrandt), Coast-scene. *873. W. van de Velde, Coast of Scheveningen. 'The numerous figures are by Adrian van de Velde. The union of these two great masters makes this one of the most charming pictures of the Dutch school'. — W. *864. Gerard Terburg, Guitar lesson. 172 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 'Terburg may be considered as the creator of what are called con- versation-pieces, and is at the same time the most eminent master in that line. In delicacy of execution he is inferior to none ; nay in a certain delicate blending he is superior to all. But none can be compared to him in the magical harmony of his silver tones, and in the gradations of the aerial perspective'. — W. 853. Rubens, Triumph of Silenus ; *839. Melsu, Music-lesson ; 884. Wynants, Landscape, witli figures by A. van de Velde. — *852. Rubens, Portrait, known as the 'Chapeau de paille'. 'The chief charm of the celebrated 'Chapeau de Paille' (chapeau de poll) consists in the marvellous triumph over a great difficulty , that of painting a head entirely in the shadow cast by the hat, and yet in the clearest and most brilliant tones'. — ^Kugler\ edited by Crowe. *856. Jan Steen [painter of humorous conversation - pieces ; Delft and the Hague; d. 1679), The music-master (an early and very carefully finished work). *869. A. van de Velde, Frost-scene. 'Admirably drawn, touched with great spirit, and of a very pleasing, though, for the subject, perhaps too warm a tone'. — W. 829. Jan Hackaert (Amsterdam, 17th cent.). Stag-hunt; *870, 871. W. van de Velde, Sea-pieces ; *849. Paul Potter (The Hague ; 1625-54), Landscape with cattle ; 833. Meindert Hobbema (Amster- dam, pupil of Ruysdael; 1638-1709), Forest-scene. — *868. A. van de Velde, Ford. 'The composition is very tasteful, and the contrast between the con- centrated mass of light and the clear half shadow, which is repeated in soft broken tones upon the horizon, is very attractive'. — W. *826. K. du Jardin , Figures and animals reposing. — *835. Pieter de Hooghe, Court of a Dutch house, 1658. 'Excites a joyful feeling of summer. In point of fulness and depth of tone and execution one of the best pictures of the master'. — W. 875. W. vande Velde, Light breeze; 882. Wouwerman, Lands- cape; 827. K. du Jardin, Fording the stream, dated 1657. *830. Hobbema, The Avenue, Middelharuis. 'From simple and by no means beautiful materials a picture is formed which, by the feeling for nature and the power of art, makes a striking impression on the intelligent spectator. Such daylight I have never before seen in any picture. The perspective is admirable, while the gradation, from the fullest bright green in the foreground, is so delicately observed, that it may be considered a masterpiece in this respect, and is, on the whole, one of the most original works of art with which I am acquainted'. — W. 866. Van der Heyde, Street in Cologne, with figures by A. van de Velde; 880. Wouwerman, On the seashore, selling fish (sup- posed to be his last work) ; 828. Dujardin, Landscape, with cattle. — *846. Adrian van Ostade (figure-painter at Haarlem, pupil of Frans Hals; d. 1685), The alchymist. 'The eftect of light in the foreground, the predominant golden tone of extraordinary brightness and clearness, the execution equally careful and spirited, and the contrast of the deep cool chiaroscuro in the back- ground have a peculiar charm'. — W. 828. K. du Jardin. Landscape and cattle; 874. W. van de Velde, Calm at sea. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 173 883. Wynants (d. ca. 1680), Landscape, with accessories by Lingelbach (dated 1659). 'This landscape lias, in a rare degree , that serene, cool freshness of tone, which so admirably expresses the character of northern scenery, and in which Wynants is quite unrivalled". — W. *832. Hobbema^ Village, with water-mills (in a warm, summer- like tone). — *822. Cuyp, Horseman and cows in a meadow. 'Of exquisite harmony, in a bright cool light, unusual with him'. — W. 867. Adrian van de Velde (brother of Willem and pupil of "Wynants at Haarlem; 1639-72), Farm cottage; 861. Teniers, River- scene; *836. Phil, de Koninck (pupil of Rembrandt; d. 1690), Land- scape, figures by A. van de Velde; 841. Wilkm van Mieris (d. 1747), Fish and poultry shop (1718); 850. Rembrandt, Portrait. — *825. Gerard Don, Poulterer's shop. 'Besides the extreme finish , in which he holds the first place , it surpasses many of his other pictures in its unusual clearness and in the agreeable and spirited heads'. — W. 878. Wouwerman, 'La belle laitiere'. 'This picture combines that delicate tone of his second period with the great force which he adopted especially toward the end of it. The effect of the dark figures relieved against the landscape is extraordi- nary' — W. 855. Ruysdael, Landscape with a waterfall. — *847. Isaac van Ostade (d. 1649), Yillage-scene in Holland. 'This delicately drawn picture combines the greatest solidity with the most spirited execution, and the finest impasto with the greatest glow and depth of tone. Paul Potter himself could not have painted the grey horse better'. — W. *879. WGUicermnn, Interior of a stable (very delicately finished). — 831. Hobbema^ Ruins of Brederode Castle. 'Strongly illumined by a sunbeam, and reflected in the dark yet clear water which surrounds them'. — W. 820. Berchem, Landscape, with ruin; 881. Wouwerman, Gather- ing faggots; 862. Teniers, The husband surprised; 854. Ruysdael, Forest-scene; 823. Cuyp, River-scene, with cattle; 843. Caspar Net- scher (pupil of Terburg, settled at the Hague; d. 1684), Children blowing soap-bubbles (1670); 863. Teniers, Dives in torment; 951. David Tenters the Elder (pupil of Rubens, and also of Elshaimer at Rome; d. 1649), Playing at bowls; 1003. Jan Fyt (animal-painter at Antwerp in the time of Rubens; d. 1661), Dead birds; 957. Jan Both, Cattle and figures; 205. J. W. E. Dietrich (German School, court-painter at Dresden; d. 1774), Itinerant musicians ; 964. Van der Cappelle, River-scene; 962. A. Cuyp, Cattle and figures; 961. Cuyp, Cattle and figures; 982. A. van de Velde, Landscape; 1294. W. van de Poorter, Allegorical subject; 965. Van der Cappelle, River scene; 949. Teniers the Elder, Rocky landscape; 999. O. Schalcken, Candle-light effect; 984. A. van de Velde, Landscape; 977. W. van de Velde. Sea-piece; 1010. Dirk van Deelen (archi- tectural painter in Zeeland ; 17th cent.). Extensive palatial build- ings of Renaissance architecture, with figures by A. Palamedesz; 969. A, van der Neer, Frost-scene; 798. Philip de Champaigne (d. 174 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 1674}, Three portraits of Cardinal Richelieu, painted as a guide in the execution of a bust (over the profile on the spectator's right are the words, 'De ces deux profiles ce ey est le meilleur); 991. Ruysdael, Prostrate tree ; J. van der Heyden (d. 1712), 993. Land- scape, 992. Gothic and classic buildings ; 1017. Unknown Flemish Master, Landscape (signed D. D. Y., 1622) ^ 978. W. van de Velde, River-scene; 1006. Berchem, Landscape; 980. Willem van de Velde the Younger, Dutch vessels saluting; 950. Tenters, Conversation; 979. W. van de Velde, Shipping; 973. Jan Womwerman (landscape- painter at Haarlem ; wrongly ascribed to Wynants), Sandbank in a river; 975. Philip Wouwerman, Stag-hunt. *54. Rembrandt, Woman bathing, dated 1654. 'Her eyes are cast down, lier head inclined. Is she hesitating to enter the water in which she is mirrored? .... The charm and valne of this painting lie in the hrillant touch and impasto , the warm and forcible colouring, the middle tints, and the admirable modelling'. — Vosmaer, ^Rembrandt, sa Vie et ses (Euvres\ 983. Adrian van de Velde, Bay horse, cow, and goat; 43. Rem- brandt, Descent from the Cross; *159. Maas, The Dutch housewife, dated 1655; 974. Philip de Koninck, Hilly, wooded landscape, with a view of the Scheldt and Antwerp Cathedral; *995. Hobbema, Forest-landscape, of peculiarly clear chiaroscuro ; 988. Ruysdael, Old oak;*153. Maas, Cradle. Van der Cappelle, 966. River-scene, 967. Shipping. 1013. Hondecoeter, Geese and ducks. Ruysdael, *990. Landscape, an extensive flat, wooded country (a c/ie/'-d'cewure) ; 987. Rocky landscape. — 952. Tenters the Younger, Village fete, dated 1643. 'An admirable original repetition of the masterly picture in the pos- session of the Duke of Bedford, though not equal to the Bedford picture in delicacv". — W. 960. Cuyp, Windmills; 958. Jan Both, Outside the walls of Rome. — *976. Philip Wouwerman, Battle. 'Full of animated action, of the utmost transparency, and executed with admirable precision". — W. 959. Jan Bof/i, River-scene; 1288. B. van der iVeer, Frost-scene ; 971. Wynants, Landscape; 211. J. van Huchtenburgh (d. 1733), Battle; '877. Van Dyck, His own portrait; 134. Cornelius Gerritz Dekker or Decker, Landscape; 1074. Dtrk Hals (younger brother of Frans; d. 1656), Merry party; 1278. Hendrik Gerritz Pot (d. ca. 1656), Convivial party. On Screens: 953. Tenters, The toper; 1014. A. Elsheimer, Martyrdom of St. Lawrence ; 972. Wynants , Landscape ; 968. Gerard Dou, The painter's wife; G. Schalcken, 998. The duet, 997. Old woman ; *838. Gabriel Metsu (painter of interiors at Amster- dam ; d. after 1667), The duet. 'Painted in the warm, full tone , which is especially valuable in his pictures'. — W. *821. Gonzales Coques, Family portraits, amply justifying the artist's claim to be the 'Little Van Dyck'. — *844. Netscher, Ma- ternal instruction. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 175 'The ingenuous expression of the children , the delicacy of the hand- ling, the striking eftect of light, and the warm deep harmony render this one of the most pleasing pictures by Netscher". — W. Above the cupboard at the back there hangs a small copy of Ru- bens'' 'Brazen Serpenf in this collection (No. 59, see p. 168). 1292. Jan van Bylert, Family group ; 796. Van Huysum, Flow- ers ; 845. Netscher, Lady at a spinning-wheel (flnishecl witli great delicacy ; 840. Frans van Mieris (d. 1681), Lady feeding a parrot (these two figures, of the same size and in the same dress, afford an interesting comparison of the workmanship of the two masters) ; 857-860. Tenters^ The seasons. — *848. Isaac van Ostade , Canal scene in winter. 'The great truth, admirable treatment, and fresh feeling of a winter's day render it one of the che/s-d^oeuvre of the master'. — W, *824. A. Cuyp, Ruined castle in a lake ('gilded by the most glowing evening sun'). Several other Dutch paintings, chiefly landscapes, are tempor- arily hung in the Central Octagon (p. 164). Room XIII. Later Italian School. What is known as the Eclectic or Academic School of Painters arose in Italy with the foundation of a large academy at Bologna hy the Carracci in 1589. Its aim was to combine the peculiar excellences of the earlier masters with a closer study of nature. The best representatives of the school are grouped together in this room, which also contains examples of the later Venetian masters. Annibale Carracci (younger brother of Lodovico, and founder along with him of the Bologuese Academy; d. 1609), 93. Silenus gathering grapes; 94. Bacchus playing to Silenius, quite in the style of the ancient frescoes. 228. Jaco^^oBassano (Venetian painter of the late Renaissance ; d. 1597), Christ driving the money-changers out of the Temple ; 624. Ascribed to Oiulio Romano (Roman School, pupil of Raphael; d. 1546), Infancy of Jupiter; 135. Canaletto, Landscape with ruins ; 1054. Francesco Guardi (architectural and landscape painter, closely allied to Canaletto ; d. 1793), View in Ve- nice; 1157. Bernardo Cavallino (Naples; d. 1654), Nativity; 48. Domenichino {Domenico Zampieri; d. 1641), Tobias and the Angel; 22. Guercino {Giovanni Francesco Barhieri; d. 1666), Angels weep- ing over the dead body of Christ (a good example of this painter, re- sembling Caravaggio in the management of the light, and recalling the picture of the same subject by Van Dyck in the Antwerp Museum); 214. Ascribed to Guido, Coronation of the Virgin; 198. Ann. Car- racci, Temptation of St. Anthony, unattractive; 160. Pietro Fran- cesco Mola (1612-68), Repose on the Flight into Egypt; 11. Quido Rent (d. 1642), St. Jerome; 936. Ferdinando £j6icna (Bologna; 1657-1743) , Performance of Othello in the Teatro Farnese at Parma. *942. Canaletto {Antonio Canale, of Venice; d. 1768), Eton College in 1746, with the Thames in the foreground. 176 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. This picture was painted during the artisfs visit to England in 1746-8, perhaps, as Mr. Cook points out, in the same year (1747) that Gray published his well-known 'Ode on a distant Prospect of Eton College'. Pietro Longhi (see R. VIII, p. 164), 1100. Domestic group, 1134. Fortune-teller, 1101. Masked visitors at a menagerie; 935. Salvator Rosa (Neapolitan landscape-painter; d. 1673), River- scene. — 937. Canaletto, Scuola di San Rocco, Venice. The picture represents 'the ceremony of Giovedi Santo or IMaundy Thursday, when the Doge and officers of state with the fraternity of St. Rock went in procession to the church of St. Mark to worship the miraculous blood'. — Catalogue. 940. Canaletto, Ducal Palace and Column of St. Mark, Venice ; 1833. Tiepolo, Deposition from the Cross; 25. Ann. Carracci, St. John in the Wilderness; 939. Canaletto, Piazzetta of St. Mark, Venice; 1206. Salv. Rosa, Landscape; 210. Guardi, Piazza of St. Mark, Venice; 851. 5e&. Eicci, Venus asleep; ^b. Domenichino, St. Jerome and the Angel; 934. Carlo Dolci (Florentine painter of sacred subjects; d. 1686), Virgin and Child; 196. G'Mido, Susannah and the Elders ('a work', says Mr. Ruskin, 'devoid alike of art and decency') ; *84. Salv. Rosa, Mercury and the woodman ; 77. Domen- ichino, Stoning of St. Stephen ; 9. Ann. Carracci (?), Christ appear- ing to St. Peter after his Resurrection (the diffleulties of foreshortening have been only partly overcome) ; 75. Domenichino, Landscape with St. George and the Dragon ; 200. Sassoferrato [Giov. Batt. Salvi; d. 1685), Madonna in prayer (primitive in colouring, common in form, and lighted for effect); 193. Guido Rent, Lot and his daughters; 163. Canaletto, Grand Canal, Venice ; iSS. Pannini (Roman School ; d, 1764), Ancient ruins. — 740. Sassoferrato, Madonna and Child. The composition is not by Sassoferrato, but is from an earlier etching by Cav. Ventura Salembeni fd. 1613). See Catalogue. 28. Lodovico Carracci (d. 1619), Susannah and the Elders; *643. Giulio Romano (ascribed by Mr. Crowe to Giulio's pupil, Rinaldo Mantovano'), Capture of Carthagena, and the Moderation of Publius Cornelius Scipio, colouring and drawing both excellent. — *56. Annibale Carracci, Landscape with figures. 'Under the influence of Titian's landscapes and of Paul Bril, who was so justly esteemed by him , Annibale acquired that grandeur of composi- tion , and beauty of outlines, which had so great an influence upon Claude and Gaspar Poussin.' — W. 941. Canaletto, Grimani Palace, Venice; 177. Guido Reni, Mary Magdalen; 174. Carlo Maratta (Roman painter; d. 1713), Portrait of Cardinal Cerri; 172. Caravaggio {Micliaelangclo Amerighi , founder of the naturalistic school of Naples; d. 1009), Christ and the Disciples at Emmaus ; 127. Canaletto, View of the Scuola della Carit^, now the Accademia delle Belle Arti , Venice; 63. Ann. Carracci, Landscape. — 29. Baroccio (Federigo Barocci, a follower of Correggio; 1528-1612), Holy Family ('La Madonna del Gatto', so called from the cat introduced). 'The chief intention of the picture is John the Baptist as a child, who teases a cat by showing her a bullfinch which he holds in his hand. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 177 The Virgin, Christ, and Joseph seem much amused by this cruel sport.' — W. 933. Padovanino, Boy with a Ijird ; 271. GuidoReni, EcceHomo ; 70. Padovanino (^Alessandro Varotari^ ofVenice ; d. 1650), Cornelia and her children (children form this artist's favourite subject); *644. Ascribed to Rinaldo Mantovano^ Rape of the Sabine women, and Re- conciliation between theRomans andSabines (these pictures recall, in many respects, Raphael's frescoes in the Vatican) ; 69. Pietro Fran. Mola, St. John in the wilderness; 1059. Cannletto, Church of St. Pietro di Castello, Venice; 88. Ann. Carracci^ Ermiiiia taking refuge with the shepherds (from Tasso) ; 938. Canaletto, Regatta on the Canale Grande, Venice; *191. Ga/doi?eni, Youthful Christ embrac- ing St. John, a very characteristic work, and the best picture by Guido in this collection ; 1058. Canaletto, Canal Reggio, Venice. On Screens: Giuseppe Zais (Venetian; d. 1784), 1296. Land- scape, 1297. River-scene. — 1048. Unknown Italian Master (16th cent)., Portrait of a cardinal; 1192, 1193. Tiepolo, Sketches for altar-pieces. Boom XIV. French School. The French landscape-painter Claude Lorrain, who is represented in this collection by several fine examples, is chiefly eminent for his skill in aerial perspective and his management of sunlight. Salvator Rosa and the two Poussins lived and painted at Rome contemporaneously with him (17th cent.). Nicolas Poussin, more famed as a painter of figures than of landscapes, was the brother-in-law of Gaspar Poussin (properly Gaspar Dughet), a follower of Claude. On each side of the doorway hang a large landscape by Claude and one by Turner. To the right, as we enter from Room XIII. : *12. Claude (d. 1682), Landscape with figures (with the inscription on the picture itself, 'Mariage d'Isac avec Rebeca'), a work of wonderfully transparent atmosphere , recalling in its composition the celebrated picture 'II molino' (the mill) in the Palazzo Doria at Rome, painted in 1648; *479. Turner, Sun rising in a mist. — To the left: 498. Turner, Dido building Carthage. (These two pictures were bequeathed by the artist on condition that they should be hung beside the Claudes.) This picture (No. 498) is ncit considered a favourable specimen of Tur- ner, -whose 'eye for colour unaccountablj' fails him' (Ruskin). Mr. Ruskin comments on the 'exquisite choice' of the group of children sailing toy- boats, as expressive of the ruling passion, T7hich was to be the source of Carthage's future greatness. The visitor will scarcely need to be referred to 'Modern Painters' (Vol. I.), for Mr. lluskin's eloquent comparison of Turner with Claude and the other landscape-painters of the old style and for his impassioned championship of the English master. *14. Claude, Embarkation of the Queen of Sheba (1648). 'The effect of the morning sun on the sea, the waves of which run high, and on the masses of building which adorn the shore, producing the most striking contrast of light and shade, is sublimely poetical'. — W. Then, to the left: 1090. Francois Boucher (1704-1770), Pan Baedekkr, London. 9th Edit. \0 178 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. and Syrinx; 91. N. Poussin, Sleeping Venus surprized by satyrs; 36. Gaspard Poussin (properly G. Dughet; d. 1675), Land-storm; 236. C. J. Vernet (grandfather of Horace Vernet; d. 1789), Castle of Sant' Angelo, Rome. Claude, *1018. Classical landscape, dated 1673; 2, Pastoral landscape with figures (reconciliation of Cepha- lus and Procris); *30. Embarkation of St. Ursula. 95. G. Poussin, Landscape with Dido and ^Eneas , with sky much overcast; 65. N. Poussin (d. 1665), Cephalus and Aurora; 1319. Claude, Land- scape with figures; 903. Hyacinthe Rigaud (portrait-painter under Louis XIV. and Louis XV. ; d. 1743), Portrait of Cardinal Fleury; 5. Claude Lorrain, Seaport at sunset. — *62. N. Poussin, Baccha- nalian dance. This is the best example of Nicholas Poussin in the gallery. The composition is an imitation of an ancient bas-relief. *1019. Jean Greuze (painter of fancy portraits; d. 1805), Head of a girl looking up; 61. Claude, Landscape; 165. N. Poussin, Plague among the Philistines atAshdod. — *31. G. Poussin, Land- scape, with Abraham and Isaac. 'This is the finest picture by Poussin here. Seldom, perhaps, have the charms of a plain, as contrasted with hilly forms overgrown with the richest forests, been so well understood and so happily united as here, the effect being enhanced by a warm light, broken by shadows of clouds'. — W. 206. Greuze, Head of a girl; 58. CZaudeLorram, Landscape with goats. — 40. jV. Poussin, Landscape, with Phocion. According to Mr. Ruskin, this is 'one of the finest landscapes that an- cient art has produced, — the work of a really great and intellectual mind\ 42. N. Poussin, Bacchanalian festival ; 1057. Cavallino, Nativity; 68, 98. G. Poussin, Landscapes; 55. Claude, Landscape, with death of Procris; iibA.Greuze, Girl with a lamb ; 161. G. Poussin, Italian landscape; *6. Claude, Landscape with figures (David and Saul in the Cave of Adullam?); 1159. G. Poussin, The Calling of Abraham; 39. A^. Poussin, Nursing of Bacchus. On Screens: 101-104, Nicolas Loncret (painter of 'Fetes Ga- lantes' ; d. 1743), Ages of man; 1020. Greuze, Girl with an apple; 12bS. J. B. S. Chardin, Still-life; 1190. Ascribed to Fr. Clouet (court-painter to Francis 1. ; b. about 1510, d. before 1574), Por- trait of a boy ; 660. Clouet , Portrait of a man ; Simon Marmion, 1303. Choir of angels, 1302. Soul of St. Bertin borne to heaven. Room XV. Spanish School. To the left: Velazquez (d. 1660), *232. Adoration of the Shep- herds (early work, under the influence of Spagnoletto) ; 1122. Domenico Theotocopuli (d. 1625), surnamed II Greco, A Cardinal; *74. Bartolome Esteban Murillo (influenced by Velazquez and Van Dyck; d. 1682), Spanish peasant boy; 1129. Velazquez, Philip IV. (bought at the Hamilton sale for 0300i.) ; 1291. Juan de Valdes Leal, Assumption of the Virgin ; *197. Velazquez, Philip IV. hunting the wild boar; *176. Murillo, St. John and the Lamb; 1229. Morales (1509-86 ; surnamed 'the Divine' from his love of religious sub- jects), Holy Family, a highly finished little work, recalling the 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 179 Flemish manner; Murillo, 1286. Boy drinking, 1257. Birth of tlie Virgin; 1308. J. B, del Mmo, Portrait. Velazquez, *745. Philip IV., 1375. Christ at the house of Martha, *1148. Scourging of Christ. *13. Murillo, Holy Family; 230. Zwj- baran (d. 1662), Franciscan monk. Ribera, 235. Dead Christ, 244. Shepherd; Velazquez, 741. Dead warrior, 1376. Sketch of a duel in the Prado. Boom XVI (adjoining R. XI V). Older Bkitish School. To the left: Thomas Oainsborough (comp. p. 154), 760. Orpin, Parish Clerk of Bradford, Wiltshire; 109. The watering-place; *683. Mrs. Siddons. 1364, Wilson, Sons of Frederick, Prince of Wales, with their tutor. — Sir Joshua Reynolds, portrait-painter and writer on art , founder and first president of the Royal Aca- demy (1723-92), 889. His own portrait, 30/. Age of Innocence, 886. Admiral Keppel, *1259. Anne, Countess of Alhemarle, 890. George IV. as Prince of Wales , 182. Heads of angels , 305. Por- trait, 885. The snake in the grass. — 1402, 1403. Henry Morland, The laundry-maid ; Gainsborough, 925. Landscape, 1044. Portrait; Reynolds, 107. The banished lord, 162. Infant Samuel, 892. Ro- binetta, a study of the Hon. Mrs. Tollemache, painted about 1786; 725. J. Wright of Derby , An experiment with the air-pump. — Reynolds, 306. Portrait of himself; 887. Portrait of Dr. Johnson; 891. Lady and child. — 1197. Zoffany, Portrait of David Garrick; 1365. Reynolds, Lady Cockburn and children; 678. Gainsborough, Study of a head ; *312. Romney (1734-1802), Lady Hamilton as a bacchante ; Reynolds, 79. The Graces decorating a terminal figure of Hymen (portraits of the daughters of Sir. W. Montgomery) , 888. James Boswell, the biographer of Johnson ; 1068. Romney, The parson's daughter. Reynolds, 106, *754. Portraits; 111. Lord Heath- field, the defender of Gibraltar in 1779-83. — There are also several other portraits in this and the following room by different hands. Room XVII. Older British School. To the left : William Hogarth{di. 1764), 1161. MissFenton, the actress, as 'Polly Peachum' in the 'Beggars' Opera'; *1046. Sigismonda mourning over the heart ofGuiscardo; 1162. Shrimp girl. 309. Gainsborough, The watering- place; 304, 1290, 1064, 267, 303, 302, 1071, 108, 110. Wilson (d. 1782), Landscapes; 1374. Hogarth, The painter's servant. Samuel Scott (id. 1772), 314. Old Westminster Bridge in 1745, 313., Old London Bridge, 1223. Portion of Westminster Bridge, 1328. West- minster from the river. 1016. Sir Peter Lely (d. 1680), Portrait. Hogarth, 1153. Family group; 113-118. Marriage h la mode (in 1760 Hogarth received only 110^ for the series, which when sold again in 1794 realised 1381^.). *1249. William Dob son [1610 -4:Q; the 'English Van Dyck') , Endymion Porter, Groom of the Bed- chamber to Charles I.; 1224. Hudson (d. 1779), Scott, the painter; 676. Hogarth, Portrait of his sister; 316. Loutherbourg (d. 1812), Lake in Cumberland; 1076. Unknown, Portrait, supposed to be tlie 12* 180 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. poet Gay; 112. Hogarth, Portrait of himself ; 1281. Francis Cotes (d. 1770), Portrait of Mrs. Brocas; 1174. Gainsborough, Sketch for No. 109 fp. 179). To reach the next room, we cross tlie main staircase. Room XVIII. British School. In the doorway, to the left, John Constable's palette is shown under glass. To the left : *1242. Alex. Nasmyth(^il 6S-i8A0-, a painter of portraits and landscapes at Edin- burgh; father of Patrick Nasmyth), Stirling Castle. Sir David "Wilkie describes Alex. Nasmyth as 'the founder of the landscape school of Scotland, and the first to enrich his native land with the representation of her romantic scenery'. 1030. George Norland (d. 1804), Interior of a stable (ITOll; 374. Bonington (d.l828), Column of St. Mark at Venice; 380, 381. Patrick Nasmyth (1786-1831), Landscapes; 787. John S. Copley (b. at Boston, Mass., in 1737; d. 1815), Siege and relief of Gi- braltar. John Constable (one of the greatest English landscape- painters, who has exercised great influence on the modern French school of landscape; 1776-1837), 1065. Corn-field, 1066. Barnes Common, 1235. House in which the artist was born, 1237. View on Hampstead Heath, 1245. Church-porch at Bergholt, Suffolk. 1069. Thos. Stothard (1755-1834), Nymphs discovering the nar- cissus-flower; 1110. William Blake (1767-1827), The Spiritual Form of Pitt guiding Behemoth (an 'iridescent sketch of enigmatic dream', symbolizing the power of statesmanship in controlling brute force) ; *1037. Crome ('Old Crome' of Norwich , d. 1821), Slate quar- ries. Constable, 1244. Bridge at Gillingham. 1236. View on Hamp- stead Heath, 1276. Harwich. Stothard, 1070. Cupids, 318. Wood- land dance, 319. Cupid and Calypso. 1208. Opie (d. 1807), William Godwin; 926. Crome, Windmill; 1392. J, Z. Bell, Cardinal Bour- ehier urges the widow of Edward IV. to let her son out of prison ; 689. Crome, Mousehold Heath , near Norwich ; 1167. Op ic. Portrait, supposed to be Mary Wollstonecraft (Mrs. Godwin). Sir Thomas Law- rence (d. 1830), 129. John Angerstein (p. 150), 1238. Sir Samuel Romilly. 1163. Stothard, The Canterbury Pilgrims; 733. John Cop- ley, Death of Major Peirson; 1177. P. Nasmyth, Landscape; 1246. Constable, House at Hampstead: 1164. Blake, Procession from Cal- vary; Stothard, 322. Battle, 1185. Nymphs and satyrs, 320. Diana bathing; 1067. G. Morland, Quarry; Gainsborough, 1271. Portrait, 80. The market cart, *311. Rustic children; 348. Callcott, Dutch coast; 1039. Thos. Barker (1769-1847), Landscape; 1179. P. Nas- myth, Landscape. Copley, 100. Last public appearance of the Earl of Chatham, who fainted in endeavouring to speak in the House of Peers on April 7th, 1778, and died a month later; 1072, 1073. Studies for No. 100. 321. Stothard, Intemperance (Cleopatra and Mark Antony); 310. Gainsborough, Watering-place; 1158. James Ward (d. 1859), Harlech Castle. On screens: 1210. Kossetti, The Annunciation; Lewis, Edfou in Upper Egypt. 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 181 Boom XIX. Bbitish School. To the left : 785. Sir Thos. Law- rence, Mrs. Siddons; 1285. Horace Vernet, Napoleon I. ; 1385. A. L. Egg, Beatrix knighting Esmond (from Thackeray's 'Esmond') ; 1307. Sir Thos. Lawrence, Miss Caroline Fry; 354. G. S. Neicton, Dutch girl at a window; 438. John Linnell, Woodcutters; 1184. 0. Lance, Fruit; 1183. P. Nasmyth, Landscape; 1349, 1350. Sir Edwin Landseer, Studies of lions ; Constable, 1275. View at Hampstead, *1273. Flatford Mill, 1272. Cenotaph erected in memory of Sir Joshua Reynolds in Coleorton Park, Leicestershire; 1384. P. Na- smyth, Yiew in Hampshire; 1351. G. Morland, Village inn; 1395. Sir Chas. Eastlake, Portrait; 1283. Gainsborough, Dedham; 893. Sir T. Lawrence, Princess Lieven; 1389. G. B. Willcock, Near Torquay; 1379. T. Woodman, Rat-catcher; 563. Thos. Seddon (a pre-Raphaelite; d. 1856), Jerusalem and the Valley of Jchosha- phat; 1250. Daniel Maclise (1811-70), Charles Dickens; 353. Newton (d. 1835), Yorick and the Grisette; 917. T. S. Good (d. 1872), No News; 600. Dyckmans (b. 1811), Blind beggar; 1306. Barker, Landscape. Room XX. Modern British School. To the left : 394. Wil- liam Mulready (1786-1863), Fair time; 607. Sir Edwin Landseer (d. 1873), Highland dogs; 439. J. Linnell (d. 1882), Windmill; 1181. Mulready, Sea-shore with boys bathing; 1182. C. R. Leslie, Scene from Milton's 'Comus"; 452. J. F. Herring (d. 1865), The scanty meal; 407. C. Stanfield (d. 1867), View in Venice; 412. Landseer, Hunted stag; 614. W. Etty (d. 1849), The bather; 406. Stanfield, Lake of Como ; 1111. J. S. Cotman (d. 1842), Wherries on the Yare; *1226. Landseer, A distinguished member of the Ro- yal Humane Society ; 395. Mulready (d. 1863), Crossing the ford ; 1186. J. Glover (d. 1849), Landscape, with cattle; 443. G. Lance (d.l864). Fruit; 409. Landseer, King Charles spaniels; 431. E. M. Ward (d. 1879), Disgrace of Lord Clarendon; 393. Mulready, The last in; 359. Etty, Lute-player; 411. Landseer, Highland music; 426. Webster, The truant; 403. Charles Leslie (d. 1859), Uncle Toby and Widow Wadman in the sentry-box (from 'Tristram Shandy') ; 444. A. G. Egg (d. 1863), Scene from the 'Diable Boi- teux'; 404. Stanfield, Entrance to the Zuyder Zee; *604. Landseer, Dignity and Impudence ; 408. Charles Landseer (d. 1S79), Clarissa Harlowe in the spunging- house; 1040. W. J. Miiller [d. 1845), Landscape ; 410. Landseer, High Life and Low Life ; 423. Daniel Maclise, Malvolio and the Countess; 427. Webster, Dame-school; 450. Fred. Gooda'l, Village holiday; 615. W. P. Frith, Derby Day; 815. Clays, Dutch boats' in the roads of Flushing; 1205. F. L. Bridell (d. 1863) , Chestnut woods above Varenna, Lake Como ; 2U. Sir David Wilkie (d. 1840), The Parish Beadle; 183. Thos. Phillips (d. 1845), Sir David Wilkie; 810. C. Poussin, Pardon Day in Brittany. Constable, *130. Corn-lield, *1207. Hay- wain, *327. Valley Farm. 124. John Jackson (^A.iS'di), Rev. Wm. Hoi well Carr; 182 14. NATIONAL GALLERY. 398. Sir Charles Eastlake (d. 1865) , A Greek girl ; 1253. J. Hol- land (d. 1870), Hyde Park Corner in 1825; 446. J. C. Horsley, The Pride of the Village (from living's 'Sketch Book'). Sir David Wilkie (1785-1841), 99. Blind Fiddler, 122. Village Festival. 453. Alex. Fraser (d. 1865), Highland cottage; 425. J. R. Herbert, Sir Thomas More and his daughter in the Tower observing monks led to exe- cution; 317. Stothard, Greek vintage; 1175. James Ward, Regent's Park in 1807 ; 1204. James Stark (d. 1859), Valley of the Yare, near Norwich. Wilkie, 921. Blindmans Buff (sketch); 828. The first ear-ring. On Screens : *1279. Dante Gabriel Bossetti (the leader of the pre-Raphaelite movement in English art; 1828-82), 'Beata Beatrix' (a portrait of the artist's wife, painted some time after her death) ; the words at the foot of the frame were quoted by Dante from Jere- miah to indicate the grief in Florence on Beatrice's death, the date of which (June 9th, 1290) is given at the top. — 1398. Sir Chas. Eastlake, Ippolita Torelli. Rooin XXI. British School of the 19th century. To the left : 402. Leslie, Sancho Panza in the chamber of the Duchess; 231. Wilkie, Portrait of Thomas Daniell, R. A.; 620. Lee (d. 1879), River-scene, the cattle by Cooper; *432. E. M. Ward, The South Sea Bubble; 120. Sir William Beechey (d. 1839), Nollekens, the sculptor; *356. Etty, 'Youth on the prow and Pleasure at the helm' (Gray), Sir E. Landseer, 605. Defeat of Comus, 603. Sleeping bloodhound (painted in four days), *608. 'Alexander and Dio- genes'. 922. Lawrence, Portrait of a child; 1142. Cecil Lawson (d. 1882), The August moon ; *Q2i. Rosa Bonheur, Horse-fair; 416. Pickersgill (d. 1875), Robert Vernon (p. 152). ArySchefferi^d. 1868), 1170. SS. Augustine and Monica, 1169. Mrs. Robert Hollond, who sat for St. Monica in No. 1170. 397. Eastlake, Christ lamenting over Jerusalem; 401. David Roberts (architectural painter; d. 1864), Chancel of the church of St. Paul at Antwerp ; *1209. Fred. Walker (d. 1875), The vagrants ; 606. Landseer, Shoeing the bay mare ; 814. Clays, Dutch shipping. Sir Edwin Landseer, 413. Peace, 414. War; 900. John Hoppner (d. 1810), Countess of Oxford; 399. Sir Chas. Eastlake, Escape of the Carrara family from the Duke of Milan in 1389 ; 428. R. Redgrave (d. 1888), Country cousins; 437. Danby (d. 1861"), Landscape; 609. Sir E. Landseer, The Maid and the Magpie; 899. Thos. Daniell, View in Bengal; *430. E. M. Ward, Dr. Johnson in Lord Chesterfield's ante-room; 1029. Linton (_d.l876). Temples of Pa-stum ; *422. Maclise, Scene from Hamlet; 340. Sir A. Callcott,'D\\t(:]\ peasants returning from market, 346. En- trance to Pisa ; 898. Sir Chas. Eastlake, Byron's dream ; *894. Wilkie, John Knox preaching before the Lords of the Congregation in 1559, after his return from an exile of 13 years; 1091. Poole (d. 1879), Vision of Ezekiel; 616. E. M. Ward, James H. receiving the news of the lauding of William of Orange; 1408. Opie, Portrait; 1382. 15. LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS. 183 John Jackson, Salvator Mundi. — On Screens: T. S. Good, 919, Study of a boy, 378. The newspaper; Wilkie, 330. Landscape, 329, Bagpiper. — 1225. T. Webster (d. 1886), His father and mother; 1112. Linnell, Portrait; 1038. Mulready, Snow-seene; 1178. P. Na- smyth, Landscape; 1407. W. Dyce, Pegwell Bay; 442. Geo. Lance, Little Redcap; 1388. George Mason, The cast shoe. Boom XXII. contains an admirable collection of paintings by J. M. W. Turner (1775-1851), the greatest English landscape- painter (comp. p. 177), chiefly bequeathed by the artist himself. To the left : *528. Burial at sea of Sir David Wilkie ; 534. Ap- proach to Venice ; *530. Snow-storm, steamboat off a harbour making signals; 472. Calais pier, English packet arriving; 470. Tenth plague of Egypt ; 476. Shipwreck ; 483. View of London from Green- wich; 813. Fishing-boats in a breeze; 480. Death of Nelson ; 493, The Deluge; 481. Boat's crew recovering an anchor at Spithead; 488. Apollo slaying the Python; 477. Garden of the Hesperides ; 513. Vision of Medea; 516. Childe Harold's Pilgrimage; 473. Holy Family ; *497, Crossing the brook ; 512. Caligula's palace and bridge atBaise; 558. Fire at sea (unfinished); 458. Portrait of himself; *538. Rain, steam, and speed, the Great Western Railway ; 501. Shipwreck at the mouth of the Meuse ; 520. Apollo and Daphne ; 506. Dido directing the equipment of the fleet at Carthage ; *502. Richmond Hill; 508. Ulysses deriding Polyphemus; 505. Apollo and the Sibyl, Bay of Baise ; 474. Destruction of Sodom; *492. Frosty morning ; 495. Apuleia in search of Apuleius ; 559. Pet- worth Park; *535. The 'Sun of Venice' putting to sea; *524. The 'Fighting Temeraire' towed to her last berth to be broken up (one of the most frequently copied pictures in the whole Gallery); 486. View of Windsor; 54S. Queen Mab's Grotto; 523. Agrippina landing with the ashes of Germanicus. — On Screens : 570. Turner, Grand Canal at Venice; Turner's palette, with an autograph letter. — 1391. F. D. Walker, The Harbour of Refuge; 369. Turner, Prince of Orange landing at Torbay. 16. Royal College of Surgeons. Soane Museum. Floral Hall. Covent Garden Market. St, Paul's. Garrick Club. Lincoln's Inn Fields (PI. R, 31 ; //), to the W. of Lincoln's Inn (p. 140), are surrounded by lawyers' offices and form the largest square in London. Before their enclosure in 1735 they were a favourite haunt of thieves and a resort of duellists. Lord William Russell (p. 127) was executed here in 1683. On the S. side of Lincoln's Inn Fields rises the Royal College of Surgeons, designed by Sir Charles Barry, and erected in 1835. It contains an admirable museum. Visitors are admitted, through the personal introduction or written order of a member, on Mon., 184 15. ROYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS. Tues., Wed., and Thurs. from 11 to 4 in winter, and from 11 to 5 in summer. The Museum is closed during the month of Septem- ber. Application for orders of admission, which are not transfer- able, may be made to the secretary. The nucleus of the museum consists of a collection of 10,000 anatomical preparations formed by John Hunter (d. 1793) , which was purchased by Government after his death and presented to the College. It is divided into two chief departments, viz. the Physio- logical Series, containing specimens of animal organs and forma- tions in a normal state , and the Pathological Series, containing similar specimens in an abnormal or diseased condition. There are now in all about 23,000 specimens. A Synopsis of the Contents is sold at the Museum, price 6d. Extended catalogues of the dif- ferent departments are also distributed throughout the Museum for the use of visitors. In the centre of the Western Museum, the room we first enter, is hung the skeleton of a Greenland whale ; a marble statue of Hunter by Weekes, erected in 1864, stands in the middle of the floor at the S. end of the hall. The Wall Cases on the right side contain Egyptian and other mummies, an admirable and extensive collection of the skulls of the different nations of the earth , deformed skeletons , abnormal bone forma- tions, and the like. The Floor Cabinets on the right contain anatomical preparations illustrating normal human anatomy , and also additional specimens of diseased and injured bones, including some skulls and bones injured by gun-shot wounds in the Crimean war. The first five Floor Cabinets on the left contain a collection illustrating the zoology of the invertebrates, such as zoophytes, shell-fish, crabs, and beetles. In the sixth cabinet are casts of the interior of crania. The Wall Cases on this side hold vegetable fossils, human crania, and human skeletons. In the case at the upper end of the room is the skeleton of the Irish giant Byrne or O'Bryan, 7ft. Tin. high ; adjoining it, under a glass-shade, is that «"»f the Sicilian dwarf, Caroline Crachami, who died at the age of 10 years, 20in. in height, lender the same shade are placed wax models of her arm and foot, and beside it is a plaster cast of her face. The Middle Museum forms the palseontological section , where the antediluvian skeletons in the centre are the most interesting objects. Skeleton of a gigantic stag (erroneously called the Irish Elk), dug up from abed of shell-marl beneath a peat-bog at Limerick; giant armadilloes from Buenos Ayres ; giant sloth (mylodon), also from Buenos Ayres ; a cast of the Binovnis giganteus, an extinct wingless bird of New Zealand; the huge megatherium , with the missing parts supplied. In the Wall Cases is a number of smaller skeletons and fossils. The Floor Cabinet contains in one of its trays specimens of the hair and skin of the great extinct elephant or mammoth, of which there are some fossil remains in one of the cases. The Easteen Museum contains the osteological series. In the centre are the skeletons of the large mammalia: whales (including a sperm- whale or cachalot, 50 ft. long), hippopotamus, giraffe, rhinoceros, ele- phant, etc. The elephant, Chunee, was exhibited for many years in Eng- land, but becoming unmanageable had at last to be shot. The poor animal did not succumb till more than 100 bullets had been fired into its body. The skeleton numbered 4506 A. is that of the first tiger shot by the Prince of Wales in India in 1876. The skeleton of 'Orlando', a Derby winner, and that of a favourite deerhound of Sir Edwin Landseer, are also exhibited here. The Cases round the room contain smaller skeletons. Round each of the rooms run two galleries, in which are kept numer- ous preparations in spirit, etc., including the diseased intestines of 15. SOANE MUSEUM. 185 Napoleon I. The galleries of the Western Museum are reached by a staircase at the S. end of the room, those of the Eastern by a staircase at the E. end of the room. The galleries of the Middle Room are entered from those of either of the others. A room , entered from the staircase of the Eastern Museum, contains a collection of surgical instruments. The Museum is conspicuous for its admirable organisation and arrangement. The College also possesses a library of about 40,000 volumes. The Council Room contains a good portrait of Hunter by Reynolds and several busts by Chantrey. At No. 13, Lincoln's Inn Fields, N. side, opposite the College of Surgeons, is Sir John Soane's Museum (PI. R, 31 ; //), founded by Sir John Soane (d.l837), architect of the Bank of England. During March, April, May, June, July, and August this interesting collection is open to the public on Tues., Wed., Thurs., and Frid., from 11 to 5. During the recess visitors are admitted by tickets obtained from the curator, Mr. Wyatt Papworth. The collection, which is exceedingly diversified in character , occupies 24 rooms, some of -which are very small , and is most in geniously arranged, every corner being turned to account. Among the contents, many of which offer little attraction, are a few good pictures and a number of curiosities of historical or personal interest. A General Descrip- tion of the contents, price 6d., may be had at the Museum. The Dining Room and LiBRARr, which the visitor first enters , are decorated somewhat after the Pompeian style. The ceiling paintings are by Henry Howard^ R. J., the principal subjects being Phoebus in his car, Pandora among the gods, Epimetheus receiving Pandora, and the Opening of Pandora's vase. On the walls are Reynolds'' Snake in the grass, a replica of the picture at the National Gallery, and a portrait of Sir John Soane, by Lawrence. The Greek painted fictile vase at the N. end of the room, 2 ft. 8 in. high, the vase and chopine on the E. side, and a French clock with a small orrery all deserve notice. A glazed case on a table contains a fine illuminated MS. with a frontispiece by Giulio Clovio. We now pass through two diminutive rooms into the Museum, con- taining numerous Marbles etc. To the right is the Picture Gallery, a room measuring 13 ft. 8 in. in length, 12 ft. 4 in breadth, and 19 ft. 6 in. in height, which, by dint of ingenious arrangement, can accommodate as many pictures as a gallery of the same height, 45 ft. long and 20 ft. broad. The walls are covered with movable shutters, hung with pictures on both sides. Among these are: Hogarth, The Rake's Progress, a cele- brated series of eight pictures, and the Election (four pictures); Canaletto^ The Rialto at Venice, and The Piazza of St. Mark; Study of a head from one of Raphael's large cartoons, perhaps by Giulio Romano. — ^^^len the last shutter of the S. wall is opened we see into a well-lighted recess, with a copy of a nymph by Westmacott, and into a small room called the Slonk's Parloir (see below). From the hall with the columns we descend into a kind of crypt, where we thread our way to the left through numerous statues, both originals and casts, and relics of ancient art, to the Sepulchral Chamber, which contains the most interesting object in the whole collection. This is an Egyptian sarcophagus, found in 1817 by Belzoni in a tomb in the valley of Biban el-Muhik , near the ancient Thebes , and consisting of one block of alabaster or arragonite, 9 ft. 4 in. long , 3 ft. 8 in. wide, and 2 ft. 8 in. deep at the head, covered both internally and externally with hieroglyphics and figures •, it is 2V2 inches in thickness. The hiero- glyphics are interpreted as referring to Seti I., father of Ramses the Great. On the S. side of this, the lower part of the Museum, is the Monument 186 15. SOANE MUSEUM. CouHT, with an 'architectural pasticcio'' , showing various styles, in the centre. The Monk's Parloir (see above) contains objects of mediseval art, some Peruvian antiquities, and tow fine Flemish wood-carvings. The rooms on the ground-floor (to which we now re-ascend) are filled with statuary, architectural fragments, terracottas, and models, among which some fine Roman portrait-busts may be noticed. Behind the cast of the Apollo Belvedere is an additional picture-gallery, containing specimens of Canaletto ('Port of Venice), Turner (■ Adm. Tromp's barge entering the Texel; Kirkstall Abbey), Calcott, Eastlake^ etc. Adjonining this is a recess with portraits of the Soane family, Avorks by Evysdael and Watieau (Les Noces), etc. In the Breakfast Room are some choice illuminated MSS., and an inlaid pistol which once belonged to Peter the Great. This room, for its arrangement, mode of lighting, the use of mirrors, etc., is, perhaps, unique in London, The Drawing Rooms, on the first floor, contain a carved ivory and gilt table and four chairs from the palace of Tippoo Sahib at Sering- apatam; a collection of exquisitely delicate miniature paintings on silk, by Labelle 5 a small but choice collection of antique gems , chiefly from Tarentum ; many drawings and paintings ; and various architectural designs by Sir John Soane. In the glass-cases in the middle of the second room are exhibted the first three "folio editions of Shakspeare, an original MS. of Tasso's 'Gerusalemme Liberata", and two sketch-books of Sir Joshua Reynolds, etc. On stands in these rooms are cork models of Pompeii, ancient temples, etc. The Library contains large collections of valuable old books, draw- ings, and MSS., which are accessible to the student. — A large variety of ancient painted glass has been glazed in the windows throughout the museum. In Duke St., running to the W. from near the S.W. corner of the square, is the Sardinia Catholic Chapel [PI. R, 31 ; 7i), oppo- site which Benjamin Franklin once lodged. A little to the S.E. is the large King' a College Hospital, behind which is the squalid neigh- bourhood of Clare Market. Great Queen Street^ containing Freemasons' Hall and Freemasons' Tavern, runs to the S.W. from the N.W. corner of Lincoln's Inn Fields. Beyond Drury Lane (p. 146) it is continued by Long Acre, with numerous coach-builders' establishments. To the left (S.) of Long Acre diverges Bow Street, in which is tlie Royal Italian Opera, Covent Garden, adjoined by the Floral Hall, now used as a foreign fruit wholesale market. Nearly opposite is the iVei/j Bow Street Po- lice Court, the most important of the 14 metropolitan police courts of London. At the corner of Bow Street and Russell Street was Will's Coffee House, the resort of Dryden and other literary men of the 17- 18th centuries. Russell Street leads hence to the E. to Drury Lane Theatre (p. 40), and to the W. to Covent Garden Market (PL R, 31 ; //), the property of the Duke of Bedford, the principal vegetable, fruit, and flower market in London. It presents an exceedingly pictur- esque and lively scene, the best time to see the vegetable market being about G o'clock on the mornings of Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, the market-days (comp. p. 26). The show of fruit and flowers is one of the finest in the world, presenting a gorgeous 15. COVENT GARDEN. 187 array of colours and diffusing a delicious fragrance; it is seen to full advantage from 7 to 10 a.m. The Easter Eve flower-market is particularly brilliant. The neighbourhood of Covent Garden is full of historic mem- ories. The name reminds us of the Convent Garden belonging to the monks of Westminster , which in Ralph Agas's Map of Lon- don (1560) is shown walled around, and extending from the Strand to the present Long Acre (p. 186), then in the open country. The Bedford family received these lands (seven acres, of the yearly value of Ql. 6s. 8d.) as a gift from the Crown in 1552. The square was planned by Inigo Jones ; and vegetables used to be sold here, thus perpetuating the associations of the ancient garden. In 1831 the Duke of Bedford erected the present market buildings, which have recently been much improved, though they are still quite inadequate for the enormous business transacted here on market-days. The neighbouring streets, Russell, Bedford, and Tavistock, comme- morate the family names of the lords of the soil. In the Covent Garden Piazzas, now nearly all cleared away, the families of Lord Crewe, Bishop Berkeley, Lord Hollis, Earl of Oxford, Sir Godfrey Kneller, Sir Kenelm Digby, the Duke of Richmond, and other distinguished persons used to reside. In this square was the old 'Bedford Coffee-house', frequented by Garrick, Foote, and Ho- garth, where the Beef-Steak Club was held ; and here was the not over savoury 'Old Hummums Hotel'. Here also was 'Evans's' [so named from a former proprietor), a house once the abode of Sir Kenelm Digby, and long noted as a place for suppers and evening entertainments. It is now occupied by a club. The neighbouring church of St. Paul, a plain building erected by Jnigo Jones at the beginning of the 17th cent., contains nothing of interest. It was the first Protestant church of any size erected in London. In the churchyard are buried Samuel Butler (d. 1680), the author of 'Hudibras' ; Sir Peter Lely (Vandervaes, d. 1680), the painter; W. Wycherley (d. 1715), the dramatist; Grinling Gibbons (d. 1721), the carver in wood; T. A. Arne (d. 1778), the composer; John Wolcot (Peter Pindar; d. 1819), the author; and Kynaston, the actor. Between Covent Garden and the Strand is old Maiden Lane^ where Andrew Marvell, the poet, and Turner, the painter, once resided, and where Voltaire lodged for some time. The Garrick Club, 13 and 15 Garrick Street, Covent Garden, founded in 1831, possesses an important and valuable collection of portraits of celebrated English actors, shown on Wednesdays only, to visitors accompanied by a member. 188 16. Whitehall. United Service Museum. The Horse Guards. The Goverrtment Ofpces . The broad street leading from Trafalgar Square , opposite the National Gallery, to the S., towards Westminster, is called Whiteliall (PL R, 26; /F), after the famous royal palace of that name for- merly situated here, of which the banqueting hall only now remains. At the beginning of the 13th cent., the Chief Justiciary, Hubert de Burgh, who resided here, presented his house with its contents to the Dominican monks of Holborn, who afterwards sold it to Walter Gray, Archbishop of York, Thenceforward it was the Lon- don residence of the Archbishops of York, and was long known as York House or York Palace. On the downfall of Wolsey, Arch- bishop of York, and favourite of Henry VIH., York House became crown property, and received the name of Whitehall : — 'Sir, you Must no more call it York-place, that is past^ For, since the cardinal fell, that title's lost; 'Tis now the king's, and call'd — WhitehalF. Hen. VIII. iv. 6. The palace was greatly enlarged and beautified by its new owner, Henry VIIL, and with its precincts became of such extent as to reach from Scotland Yard to near Bridge Street, and from the Thames far into St. James's Park, passing over what was then the narrow street of Whitehall, which it spanned by means of a beau- tiful gateway designed by Holbein. The banqueting-hall of old York House, built in the Tudor style, having been burned down in 1615, James I. conceived the idea of erecting on its site a magnificent royal residence , designed by Inigo Jones. The building was begun, but, at the time of the breaking out of the Civil War, the Banqueting Hall only had been completed. In 1691 part of the old palace was burned to the ground, and the remainder in 1697; so that nothing remained of Whitehall, except the new hall, which is still standing (on the E. side of Whitehall; see p. 189). The reminiscences of the tragic episodes of English history transacted at Whitehall are much more interesting than the place itself. It was here that Cardinal Wolsey, the haughty, splendour- loving Archbishop of York, gave his costly entertainments, and here he was disgraced. Here, too, Henry VIII. became enamoured of the unhappy Anne Boleyn, at a ball given in honour of the fickle and voluptuous monarch; and here he died in 1547. Holbein, the famous painter, occupied rooms in tlie palace at that period. It was from Whitehall that Elizabeth was carried as a prisoner to the Tower, and to Whitehall she returned in triumph as Queen of England. From an opening made in the wall between the upper and lower central windows of the Banqueting Hall, Charles I. was led out to the scaffold erected in the street close by. A little later 16. UNITED SERVICE INSTITUTE. 189 the Protector Oliver Cromwell took up his residence here with his secretary, John Milton, and here he died on 3rd Sept., 1658. Here Charles II., restored, held a profligate court, one of the darkest blots on the fame of England, and here he died in 1685. After the destruction of Whitehall Palace by lire in 1697, St. James's Palace became the royal residence. The Banqueting Hall, one of the most splendid specimens of the Palladian style of architecture, is 111ft. long, 55^2 ft- wide, and 551/2 ft. high. The ceiling is embellished with pictures by Rubens, on canvas, painted abroarl, at a cost of 3000i., and sent to England. They are in nine sections, and represent the Apo- theosis of James I. in the centre, with allegorical representations of peace, plenty, etc., and scenes from the life of Charles I., the artist's patron. Van Dyck was to have executed for the sides a series of mural paintings, representing the history and ceremonies of the Order of the Garter, but the scheme was never carried out. George I. converted the banqueting -house into a Royal Chapel, which was dismantled in 1890, and in 1894 the United Service Museum (see below) was removed hither(adm., see below). The base- ment floor or crypt, previously subdivided into dark cellars, was at the same time restored and provided with a concrete floor, while the wood of the oaken pews was used to panel the bases of the walls and piers. Adjoinin^j!; the Banqueting Hall on the S. are the new buildings of the Royal United Service Institute, which was founded in 1830 and possesses an interesting collection of objects connected with the mil- itary and naval professions, and a library. The institution numbers about 4600 members, each of whom pays an entrance fee of li. and a yearly subscription of the same amount or a life-subscription of 10 1. Admission, by order from a member or on application to the secretary, daily, except Sundays and Fridays, 11-5 in summer, 11-4 in winter. Soldiers, sailors, and policemen in uniform are admitted without orders. — The new buildings contain a large Lecture Hall, Library, Smoking Room, etc., while the United Service Museum is accommodated in the Banqueting Hall (see below). — Until 1894 the Institute occupied a building in Whitehall Yard , now Horse Guards Avenue, to the N. of the hall. The Banqueting Hall contains a large *Mo(iel of the battle of Water- loo, by Captain Siborne, in which 190,000 figures are represented, giving one an admirable idea of the disposition and movements of the forces on the eventful day, relics of Napoleon and Wellington; the skeleton of Napoleon's charger, Marengo; the skull of Shaw, the Lifeguardsman, and numerous memorials of Waterloo. Hamilton''s model of Sebastopol, show- ing the position of the troops; a model of the battle of Trafalgar, showing the British fleet breaking the enemy's line; and a model of the battle of Sadowa, besides numerous models of war-vessels of various dates, are also placed here. — The rest of the collection , placed partly in this hall and partly in the Basement, includes weapons and martial equipments from America, Africa, the South Sea Islands, etc. ; a European Armoury, con- taining specimens of the armour and weapons of the different European 190 16. HORSE GUARDS. nations; an Asiatic Armoury, with Indian guns and armour, etc.; a Naval Collection, including models of dift'erent kinds of vessels, ships'" gear, ma- rine machinery, and the like , including an ingenious little model of a ship, executedby a French prisoner-of-war; relics of Franklin's expedition to the N. pole, and others of the Royal George, sunk at S pithead in 17825 cases containing the swords of Cromwell and General Wolfe, a midship- man's dirk that belonged to Nelson; the pistols of Sir Ralph Abercromby, Bolivar, and Tippoo Sahib; relics of Sir John Moore; personal relics of Drake, Nelson, Captain Cook, and other famous seamen; and numerous other interesting historical relics; models of ordnance and specimens of shot and shells; model steam-engines; military models of various kinds : siege-operations with trenches, lines, batteries, approaches, and walls in which a breach has been effected; fortifications, pioneer instruments, etc; uniforms and equipments of soldiers of different countries, fire-arms and portions of fire-arms at different stages of their manufacture ; trophies from the Crimean War and from the last campaign in China, etc. In Whitehall Gardens, at the back of Whitehall, stands a bronze statue of James II., by Grinling Gibbons, erected in 1686. Whitehall and the neighbourhood now contain various public offices. Near Charing Cross, to the left, is Great Scotland Yard, once the headquarters of the Metropolitan Police (comp. p. 191). Scotland Yard is said to have belonged to the kings of Scotland (whence its name) from the reign of Edgar to that of Henry II. At a later period, Milton, Inigo Jones, Sir Christopher Wren, and other celebrated persons resided here. Opposite, on the right side of Whitehall, is the Admiralty, behind which, facing St. James's Park, large new offices are now approaching completion. Below the Admiralty is the Horse Guards, the office of the commander-in- chief of the army, an inconsiderable building with a low clock- tower, erected in 1753 on the site of an old Tilt Yard. It derives its name from its original use as a guard - house for the palace of Whitehall. Two mounted Life Guards are posted here as sentinels every day from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and the operation of relieving guard, which takes place hourly, is interesting. At 11 a.m. the troop of 40 Life Guards on duty is relieved by another troop, when a good opportunity is afforded of seeing a number of these fine sol- diers together. The infantry sentries on the other side of the Horse Guards, in St. James's Park, are also changed at 11 a.m. A pas- sage , much frequented by pedestrians, leads through the Horse Guards into St. James's Park , but no carriages except those of royalty and of a few privileged persons are permitted to pass. The Treasury, a building 100 yds. in length, situated between the Horse Guards and Downing Street, originally erected during the reign of George I. and provided by Sir Charles Barry with a new facade, is the office of the Prime Minister (First Lord of the Treasury) and also contains the Education Office, the Privy Council Office, and the Board of Trade. The Office of the Chancellor of the Exchequer occupies a separate edifice in Downing Street. :.i,'. To the S., between Downing Street and Charles Street, rise the new Public Offices, a large pile of buildings in the Italian style constructed in 1868-73 at a cost of 500,000^., from designs by Sir 16. MINISTERIAL OFFICES. 191 G. 0. Scott (d. 1878). They comprise the Home Office, the Foreign Office, the Colonial Office, and the India Office. None of these of- fices are now shown to visitors. — ■ The effect of the imposing fa- cade towards Parliament Street [the southern prolongation of White- hall) has been greatly enhanced by the widening of the street to 50 yds., whereby, too, a view ofWestminster Abbey from White- hall is disclosed ; but the removal of the W. side of Parliament Street will be necessary for the full realisation of this effect. The modern edifice on the E. side of Whitehall opposite the Treasury, in the Franco-Scottish Renaissance style, is Montague House, the mansion of the Duke of Buccleuch, containing a splendid collection of miniatures and many valuable pictures. No. 2 Whitehall Gardens, to the N. of Montague House, was the home of Benjamin Disraeli (Lord Beaconsfield) in 1873-5. No. 4 was the town- house of Sir Robert Peel, whither he was carried to die after falling from his horse in Constitution Hill (June 29th, 1850). Derby Street, on the E. side of Parliament St., leads to New Scotland Yard, on the Victoria Embankment, the headquarters of the Metropolitan Police since 1891. The turretted building, in the Scottish baronial style, was designed by Norman Shaw. 17. Houses of Parliament and Westminster Hall. St. Margaret's Church. Westminster Bridge, The *Houses of Parliament, or New Palace of Westminster (PI. R, 25 ; /F), which, together with Westminster Hall, form a single pile of buildings, have been erected since 1840, from a plan by Sir Charles Barry, which was selected as the best of 97 sent in for competition. The previous edifice was burned down in 1834. The new building is in the richest late-Gothic (Tudor or Perpendicular) style, and covers an area of 8 acres. It contains 11 courts, 100 stair- cases, and 1100 apartments, and has cost in all about 3,000,000^. Although so costly a national structure, some serious defects are observable; the external stone is gradually crumbling, and the building stands on so low a level that the basement rooms are said to be lower than the Thames at high tide. The Clock Tower (St. Stephen s Tower), at the N. end, next to Westminster Bridge, is 318 ft. high; the Middle Tower is 300ft. high; and the S.W. Victoria Tower, the largest of the three, through which the Queen enters on the opening and prorogation of Parliament, attains a height of 340 ft. The large clock has four dials, each 23 ft. in dia- meter, and it takes five hours to wind up the striking parts. A light in the Clock Tower by night, and the royal standard flying from the Victoria Tower by day, indicate that the 'House' is sitting. The great Bell of the Clock Tower, popularly known as 'Big Ben' (named after Sir Benjamin Hall, First Commissioner of Works at the time of its erection) is one of the largest known, weighing no less than 13 tons. It was soon found to have a flaw or crack, and its 192 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. tone became shrill, "but the crack was filed open, so as to prevent vibration, and the tone became quite pure. It is heard in calm weather over the greater part of London. The imposing river front (E.") of the edifice is 940 ft. in length. It is adorned with statues of the English monarchs from William the Conqueror down to Queen Victoria, with armorial bearings, and many other enrichments. The impression produced by the interior is in its way no less imposing than that ot the exterior. The tasteful fitting-np of the different rooms, some of which are adorned down to the minutest details with lavish magnificence, is in admirable keeping with the office and dignity of the building. The Houses of Parliament are shown on Saturdays from 10 to 4, (no admission, however, after 3.30.) by tickets obtained gratis at the entrance. We enter on the W. side by a door adjacent to the Victoria Tower (public entrance also through Westminster Hall). Police-constables, stationed in each room, hxirry visitors through the building in a most uncomfortable fashion, scarcely giving time for more than a glance at the objects of interest. The crypt is not now shown. Handhook Is. (unnecessary). Ascending the staircase from the entrance door, we first reach the Norman Porch^ a small square hall, with Gothic groined vault- ing, and borne by a finely clustered central pillar. We next enter (to the right) the Queen's Robing Room, a handsome chamber, 45 ft. in length, the chief feature in which is formed by the fresco paintings by Mr. JDyce, representing the virtues of chivalry, the sub- jects being taken from the Legend of King Arthur. Above the fire- place the three virtues illustrated are Courtesy, Religion, and Generosity; on the N. side are Hospitality and Mercy. The fine dado panelling with carvings illustrative of Arthurian legends, the rich ceiling, the fireplace, the doors, the flooring, and the state chair at the E. end of the room are all worthy of notice. Next comes the Royal or Victoria Gallery, 110 ft. long, through which the Queen, issuing from the Queen's Robing Room on the S., proceeds in solemn procession to the House of Peers, for the purpose of opening or proroguing Parliament. On these occasions privileged persons are admitted into this hall by orders obtained at the Lord Chamber- lain's Office. The pavement consists of fine mosaic work ; the ceil- ing is panelled and richly gilt. The sides are adorned with two large frescoes in water-glass by Maclise; on the left, Death of Nelson at Trafalgar (comp. p. 149), and on the right, Meeting of Bliicher and Wellington after Waterloo. The Prince's Chamber, the smaller apartment entered on quit- ting the Victoria Gallery, is a model of simple magnificence, being decorated with dark wood in the style for which the middle ages are famous. Opposite the door is a group in marble by Gibson, representing Queen Victoria enthroned, with allegorical figures of Clemency and Justice. The stained-glass windows on the W, and E. exhibit the rose, thistle, and shamrock, the emblems of Eng- I ^ograph. Aiutalt "VTigner * D*bes. Leipiig. 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 193 land, Scotland, and Ireland. Above, in the panels of the hand- some wainscot, is a series of portraits of English monarchs and their relatives of the Tudor period (1485-1603). These are as follows, beginning to the left of the entrance door: 1. Louis XII. of France; 2. Mary, daughter of Henry ^^I. of England and wife of Louis ; 3. Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, Mary's second hus- band; 4. Marquis of Dorset; 5. Lady Jane Grey; 6. Lord Guildford Dud- ley, her husband; 7. James IV. of Scotland; 8. Queen Margaret, daughter of Henry VII. of England and wife of James (through this princess the Stuarts derived their title to the English throne); 9. Earl of Angus, sec- ond husband of Margaret, and Regent of Scotland; 10. James V. ; 11. Mary of Guise, wife of James V., and mother of Mary Stuart; 12. Queen Mary Stuart; 13. Francis II. of France, Mary Stuarfs first husband; 14. Lord Darnley, her second husband; 15. Henry VII.; 16. Elizabeth, daughter of Edward IV., and wife of Henry (this marriage put an end to the Wars of the Roses, by uniting the Houses of York and Lancaster); 17. Arthur, Prince of Wales ; 18. Catharine of Aragon ; 19. Henry VIII. ; 20. Anne Boleyn ; 21. Jane Seymour ; 22. Anne of Cleves ; 23. Catharine Howard ; 24. Catharine Parr ; 25. Edward VI. ; 26. Queen Mary of England ; 27. Philip of Spain, her husband; 28. Queen Elizabeth. Over these portraits runs a frieze with oak leaves and acorns and the armorial bearings of the English sovereigns since the Con- quest ; below, in the sections of the panelling, are 12 reliefs in oak, representing events in English history (Tudor period). Two doors lead from this room into the *Housb of Peers, which is sumptuously decorated in the richest Gothic style. The oblong chamber, in which the peers of England sit in council, is 90 ft. in length 45 ft. broad, and 45 ft. high. The floor is almost entirely oc- cupied with the red leather benches of the 550 members. The twelve tine stained-glass windows contain portraits of all the kings and queens of England since the Conquest. At night the House is lighted from the outside through these windows. Eighteen niches between the windows are occupied by statues of the barons who extorted the Magna Charta from King John. The very handsome walls and ceiling are decorated with heraldic and other emblems. Above, in recesses at the upper and lower ends of the room, are six frescoes, the first attempts on a large scale of modern English art in this department of painting. That on the wall above the throne, in the centre, represents the Baptism of King Ethelbert (about 596), by Dyce; to the left of it, Edward III. investing his son, the 'Black Prince', with the Order of the Garter; on the right, Henry, son of Henry IV., acknow- ledging the authority of Judge Gascoigne, who had committed the Prince to prison for striking him, both by Cope. — Opposite, at the N. end of the chamber, three symbolical pictures of the Spirits of Religion, Justice, and Chivalry, the first by Horsley., the other two by Maclise. At the S. end of the hall, raised by a few steps, and covered with a richly gilded canopy, is the magnificent throne of the Queen. On the right of it is the lower throne of the Prince of Wales, while on the left is that intended for the sovereign's consort. At the sides are two large gilt candelabra. The celebrated woolsack of the Lord Chancellor, a kind of cushioned ottoman , stands in front of the throne, almost in the centre of the hall. — At the N. end of the chamber, opposite the throne, is the Bar, where official communications from the Cotn- Baedeker, London. 9th Edit. 13 194 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. mons to the Lords are delivered, and where law-suits on final appeal are pleaded. Above the Bar are the galleries for the re- porters and for strangers. Ahove the throne on either side are seats for foreign ambassadors and other distinguished visitors. From the House of Lords we pass into the Peers' Lobby, another rectangular apartment, richly fitted up, with a door on each side. The brass foliated wings of the southern door are well worthy of examination. The corners contain elegant candelabra of brass. The encaustic tiled pavement, with a fine enamel inlaid with brass in the centre , is of great beauty. Each peer has in this lobby his own hat-peg, etc., provided with his name. The door on the left (W.) side leads into the Peers' Robing Room (not always shown), which is decorated with frescoes \)y Her- bert. Two only have been finished (Moses bringing the Tables of the Law from Sinai, and the Judgment of Daniel). The door on the N. side opens on the Peers' Corridor, the way to the Central Hall and the House of Commons. This corridor is em- bellished with the following eight frescoes (beginning on the left) : — 1. Burial of Charles I. (beheaded 1649); 2. Expulsion of the Fellows of a college at Oxford for refusing to subscribe to the Covenant; 3. Defence of Basing House by the Cavaliers against the Roundheads •, 4. Charles I. erecting his standard at Nottingham ; 5. Speaker Lenthall vindicating the rights of the House of Commons against Charles I. on his attempt to arrest the five members •, 6. Departure of the London train-bands to the relief of Gloucester; 7. Embarkment of the Pilgrim Fathers for New England; 8. Lady Russell taking leave of her husband before his execution. The spacious *Central Hall, in the middle of the building, is octagonal in shape, and richly decorated. It is 60 ft. in diameter and 75 ft. high. The surfaces of the stone-vaulting, between the massive and richly embossed ribs, are inlaid with Venetian mosaics, representing in frequent repetition the heraldic emblems of the Eng- lish crown, viz. the rose, shamrock, thistle, portcullis, and harp. Lofty portals lead from this hall into (N.) the Corridor to the House of Commons ; to (W.) St. Stephen's Hall ; to (E.) the Waiting-Hall (see p. 195) ; and (S.) the House of Peers (see p. 193). Above the last door is a representation, in glass mosaic, of St. George, by Poynter. Here, too, are statues of Lord John Russell (d. 1878) and Lord Iddesleigh (d. 1887). The niches at the sides of the portals bear statues of English sover- eigns. At the W. door: on the left, Edward I., his consort Eleanor, and Edward II.; on the right, Isabella, wife of King John, Henry HI., and Eleanor, his wife. At the N. door: on the lett, Isabella, wife of Edward II., Henry IV., and Edward III. ; on the right, Richard II., his consort, Anne of Bohemia, and Philippa, wife of Edward III. At the E. door: on the left, Jane of Navarre, wife of Henry IV., Henry V., and his wife Catha- rine; on the right, Henry VI., Margaret, his wife, and Edward VI. At the S .door: on the left, Elizabeth, wife of Edward IV., Edward V., and Rich- ard III. ; on the right, Anne, wife of Richard III., Henry VII., and his eon- sort Elizabeth. The niches in the windows are filled with similar statues. Round the handsome mosaic pavement runs the inscription (in the Latin of the Vulgate), 'Except the Lord keep the house , their labour is but lost that build it'. 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 195 A door on the E. side of the Central Hall leads to the Hall of THE PoBTs, also Called the Upper Waiting Hall [not always shown). It contains the following frescoes of scenes from English poetry : — Griselda's first trial of patience, from Chaucer, by Cope; St. George conquering the Dragon , from Spenser , by Watts ; King Lear disinheriting his daughter Cordelia, from Shakspeare, by Herbert ; Satan touched by the spear of Ithuriel, from Milton, by Horsley ; St. Cecilia, from Dryden, by Tenniel; Personification of the Thames, from Pope, by Armitage ; Death of Marmion, from Scott, by Armitage ; Death of Lara, from Byron, by W. Dyce. Beyond the N. door of the Central Hall, and corresponding with the passage leading to the House of Lords in the opposite direction, is the Commons' Cobbidor, leading to the House of Commons. It is also adorned with 8 frescoes, as follows (beginning on the left) : — 1. Alice Lisle concealing fugitive Cavaliers after the battle of Sedge- moor; 2. Last sleep of the Duke of Argyll; 3. The Lords and Commons delivering the crown to William and Mary in the Banqueting Hall ; 4. Acquittal of the Seven Bishops in the reign of James II. (comp. p. 197); 5. Monk declaring himself in favour of a free parliament; 6. Landing of Charles II. ; 7. The executioner hanging Wishart's book round the neck of Montrose ; 8. Jane Lane helping Charles II. to escape. We next pass through the Commons' Lobby to the — House of Commons , 75 ft. in length , 45 ft. wide, and 41 ft. high, very substantially and handsomely fitted up with oak-panel- ling , in a simpler and more business-like style than the House of Lords. The present ceiling, which hides the original one, was con- structed to improve the lighting and ventilation. The members of the House (670 in number, though seats are provided for 476 only) enter either by the public approach, or by a private entrance through a side-door to the E. of Westminster Hall and along an arcade between this hall and the Star Chamber Court. The twelve stained- glass windows are adorned with the armorial bearings of parliament- ary boroughs. In the evening the House is lighted through the glass panels of the ceiling. The seat of the Speaker or president is at the N. end of the chamber, in a straight line with the woolsack in the House of Lords. The benches to the right of the Speaker are the recognised seats of the Government Party ; the ministers occupy the first bench. On the left of the Speaker are the members forming the Opposition, the leaders of which also take their seats on the first bench. In front of the Speaker's table is the Clerks' table, on which lies the Mace. The Reporters' Gallery is above the speaker, while above it again, behind an iron grating, are the seats for ladies. At the S. end of the House, opposite the Speaker, are the galleries for strangers. The upper, or Strangers' Gallery, can be visited by an order from a Member of Parliament. To the lower, or Speaker's Gallery, admission is granted only on the Speakers order, obtained by a member. The row of seats in front of the Speaker's Gallery is appropriated to members of the peerage and 13* 196 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. to distinguished strangers. The galleries at the sides of the House are for the use of members, and are deemed part of the House. The seats underneath the galleries, on a level -with the floor of the House, but outside the bar , are appropriated to members of the diplomatic corps and to distinguished strangers. Permission to be present at the debates of the Lower House can be obtained only from a member of parliament. The House of Lords, when sitting as a Court of Appeal, is open to the public; on other occasions a peer's order is necessary. On each side of the House of Commons is a ^Division Lobby\ into which the members pass, when a vote is taken, for the purpose of being counted. The 'Aj/es', or those who are favourable to the motion, retire into the W. lobby, to the right of the Speaker; the ^ Noes', or those who vote against the motion, retire into the E. lobby, to the Speaker's left. Returning to the Central Hall we pass through the door at its western (right) extremity, leading to St. Stephen's Hall^ which is 75 ft. long, 30 ft. broad, and 55 ft. high. It occupies the site of old St. Stephen's Chapel , founded in 1330, and long used for meetings of the Commons. Along the walls are marble statues of celebrated English statesmen : on the left (S.), Hampden , Selden , Sir Robert Walpole , Lord Chatham , his son Pitt, and the Irish orator Grattan ; on the right (N.) , Lord Claren- don, Lord Falkland, Lord Somers, Lord Mansfield, Fox, and Burke. The niches at the sides of the doors are occupied by statues of English sovereigns. By the E. door : on the left, Matilda, Henry II., Eleanor ; on the right, Richard Cceur de Lion, Berengaria, and John. By the W. door : on the left, William the Conqueror, Matilda, Wil- liam II ; on the right, Henry I. Beauclerc, Matilda, and Stephen. A broad flight of steps leads hence through St. Stephen's Porch (62 ft. in height), passing a large stained-glass window, and turning to the right, to Westminster Ball. The present Westminster Hall is part of the ancient Palace of Westminster founded by the Anglo-Saxon kings, and occupied by their successors down to Henry VIII. The hall was begun by William Rufus , son of the Conqueror, in 1097, continued and extended by Henry III. and Edward I., and almost totally destroyed by fire in 1291. Edward II. afterwards began to rebuild it ; and in 1398 Richard II. caused it to be remodelled and enlarged, supplying it with a new roof. It is one of the largest halls in the world with a wooden ceiling unsupported by columns. Its length is 290 ft., breadth 68 ft., and height 92 ft. The oaken roof, with its hammer-beams, repaired in 1820 with the wood of an old vessel in Portsmouth Harbour, is considered a masterpiece of timber archi- tecture, both in point of beauty and constructive skill. Westminster Hall , which now forms a vestibule to the Houses of Parliament, is rich in interesting historical associations. In it were held some of the earliest English parliaments, one of 17. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 197 which declared Edward II. to have forfeited the crown ; and by a curious fatality the first scene of public importance in the new hall, as restored or rebuilt by Richard II., was the deposition of that unfortunate monarch. In this hall the English monarchs down to George IV. gave their coronation festivals ; and here Edward III. entertained the captive kings , David of Scotland and John of France. Here Charles I. was condemned to death; and here, a few years later (1653), Cromwell, wear- ing the royal purple lined with ermine, and holding a golden sceptre in one hand and the Bible in the other, was saluted as Lord Protector. Within eight years afterwards the Protector's body was rudely dragged from its resting-place in Westminster Abbey and thrust into a pit at Tyburn, while his head was exposed with those of Bradshaw and Ireton on the pinnacles of this same Westminster Hall, where it remained for 30 years. A high wind at last carried it to the ground. The family of the sentry who picked it up after- wards sold it to one of the Russells, a distant descendant of Crom- well, and it passed finally into the possession of Dr. Wilkinson, one of whose descendants, at Sevenoaks, Kent, is said now to possess it. There is some evidence, however, that the Protector's body, after exhumation, was buried in Red Lion Square, and that another, sub- stituted for it, was deprived of its head and buried at Tyburn. Many other famous historical characters were condemned to death in Westminster Hall , including William Wallace , the brave champion of Scotland's liberties ; Sir John Oldcastle , better known as Lord Cobham ; Sir Thomas More ; the Protector Somerset ; Sir Thomas Wyatt ; Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex ; Guy Fawkes ; and the Earl of Strafford. Among other notable events transacted at Westminster Hall was the acquittal of the Seven Bishops, who had been committed to the Tower for their opposition to the illegal dispensing power of James II. ; the condemnation of the Scottish lords Kilmarnock , Balmerino , and Lovat ; the trial of Lord Byron (grand-uncle of the poet) for killing Mr. Chaworth in a duel ; the condemnation of Lord Ferrars for murdering his valet ; and the ac- quittal of Warren Hastings, after a trial which lasted seven years. The last public festival held in Westminster Hall was at the coronation of George IV., when the King's champion in full armour rode into the hall, and, according to ancient custom, threw his gauntlet on the floor, challenging to mortal combat anyone who might dispute the title of the sovereign. The ceremony of swearing in the Lord Mayor took place here for the last time in 1882, and is now performed in the new Law Courts (p. 144). On theE. side of the hall are placed the following marble statues (beginning from the left) : Mary, wife of William III., James 1., Charles I., Charles II., William III., George IV., William IV. From the first landing of the staircase leading to St. Stephen's Hall a narrow door to the left (E.) leads to St. Stephen's Ckypt 198 17. ST. MARGARET'S CHURCH. (properly the Church of St. Mary's Undercroft; not now shown), a low vaulted structure supported by columns, measuring 90 ft. in length, 28 ft. in breadth , and 20 ft. in height. It was erected by King Stephen, rebuilt by Edwards II. and III., and, after having long fallen to decay, has recently been thoroughly restored and richly decorated with painting and gilding. St. Stephen'' s Clois- ters, on the E. side of Westminster Hall, were built by Henry VIII. and have been lately restored. They are beautifully adorned with carving, groining, and tracery, but are not open to the public. The other multifarious portions of this immense pile of buildings include 18 or 20 official residences of various sizes, libraries, committee rooms, and dining, refreshment, and smoking rooms. The number of statues, outside and inside, is about five hundred. On the W. side of Westminster Hall, and to the N. of the Abbey, stands St. Margaret's Church (PI. R, 25 ; /F), which, down to 1858, used to be attended by the House of Commons in state on four days in the year , as then prescribed in the Prayer Book. It was erected in the time of Edward I. on the site of an earlier church built by Edward the Confessor in 1064, and was greatly altered and improved under Edward IV. The stained-glass window of the Crucifixion at the E. end was executed at Gouda in Holland, and is said to have been a gift from the town of Dordrecht to Henry VII. Henry VIII. presented it to Waltham Abbey. At the time of the Commonwealth it was concealed , and after various vicissitudes it was at length purchased in 1758 by the church- wardens of St. Margaret's for 400i., and placed in its present position. William Caxton, whose printing-press was set up in 1476-77 in the almonry, formerly standing near the W. front of Westminster Abbey, was buried here in 1491. From the fact of a chapel existing in the old almonry , printers' work-shops and also guild-meetings of printers are still called 'chapels'. Sir Walter Raleigh, who was executed in front of the palace of Westminster in 1618, was buried in the chancel. The church, the interior of which was restored in 1878, is open daily, 9-1 and 2-4.30, except Sat. afternoon (entr. by the E. or vestry door, facing Westminster Hall). The present in- cumbent of St. Margaret's is the eloquent Canon Farrar, who also preaches frequently in Westminster Abbey. At tlie E. end of the S. aisle is a stained-glass window placed here by the printers in 1882 in memory of Caxton, containing his portrait, with the Venerable Bede on his right and Erasmus on his left. On a tablet below the window is a verse by Tennyson, referring to Caxton's motto, '^Fiat lux'. Adjacent is a brass memorial of Raleigh. The large and hand- some window over the W. door was put up by Americans to the memory of Sir Walter Raleigh in 1882; it contains portraits of Raleigh and several of his distinguished contemporaries, and also scenes connected with the life of P.aleigh and the colonisation of America. The poetic inscription on tbe Raleigh window was written by Mr. J. Russell Lowell. There are also windows in the S. wall in memory of Lord and Lady Hatherley, Sir Thomas Krskine May (d. 1886), the great authority on Constitutional Law, etc., and also one erected in 1887 in memory of Queen Victoria's Jubilee, with an inscription by Browning. The window at the W. end of the S. 17. WESTMINSTER BRIDGE. 199 aisle commemorates Lord Frederick Cavendisli, assassinated at Dublin in 1832. At the W. end of the N. aisle is a memorial window (erected by Mr. Gr. W. Childs) to John Milton, whose second wife and infant child are buried here and whose banns are in the parish register; the inscrip- tion is by Whittier. In the N. wall are windows to Mr. Edward Lloyd (1815- 1890), printer and publisher, with a verse by Sir Edwin Arnold; to Ado- miral Blake (d. 1657), 'chief founder of England's naval supremacy', who was buried in St. Margaret's churchyard after being exhumed from West- minster Abbey; and to Mr. W. H. Smith (d. 1891), leader of the Hause of Commons under Lord Salisbury's ministries. Besides Raleigh and Cax ton, the church shelters the remains of Skelton (d. 1529), the satirist, nd James Harrington (d. 1677), author of 'Oceana'. Some of the old monu ments are interesting. In Old Palace Yard, to the S., between the Houses of Parlia- ment and Westminster Abhey, rises an Equestrian Statue of Richard Coeur de Lion, in bronze, by Marochetti. Farther on are the Vic- toria Tower Gardens, abutting on the Thames, and affording a fine view of Westminster Bridge. To the N. of St. Margaret's, in Parliament Square, is a bronze Statue of Lord Beaconsfield (d. 1881), in the robes of the Garter, by Raggi , unveiled in April , 1883. To the right opposite the entrance into New Palace Yard, stands the bronze Statue of the Earl of Derby (d. 1869), in the robes of a peer, 10 ft. high, by Noble, erected in 1874. The granite pedestal bears four reliefs in bronze, representing his career as a statesman. A little farther to the right is a bronze statue of Lord Palmerston (d. 1865), and on the N. side of the square is that of Sir Robert Peel (d. 1850). On the W. side of the square is the bronze Statue of Canning (d. 1827), by Westmacott , near which , at the corner of Great George Street, is a handsome Gothic fountain, erected in 1863 as a memorial to the distinguished men who brought about the abolition of slavery in the British dominions. The visitor should not quit this spot without a glance at King Street , the only thoroughfare in earlier times from Whitehall to Westminster. At the N. end, demolished to make room for the new Government Offices, stood Holbein's great gate (p. 188), Spenser, the poet, spent his last days in this street, and he was carried hence to Westminster Abbey. Cromwell's mother lived here, often visited by her affectionate son; so did Dr. Sydenham, Lord North, Bishop Goodman, and at one time Oliver Cromwell himself. Through this street, humble as it now looks, all the pageants from Whitehall to the Abbey and Westminster Hall passed, whether for burial coronation, or state trials. Parliament Street was only opened in 1732, long after Whitehall had ceased to be a royal residence, and was carried through the old privy garden of Whitehall. — No. 17 Delahay Street was the residence of Judge Jeffreys (d. 1689). *We8tmin8ter Bridge (PI. R, 29; IV), erected in 1856-62, by Page, at a cost of 250,000i., on the site of an earlier stone bridge, is 1160 ft. long and 85 ft. broad (carriage-way 53 ft., side-walks each 15 ft.). It consists of seven iron arches borne by granite 200 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. buttresses, tlie central arch having a span of 120 ft., the others of 114 ft. The bridge is one of the handsomest in London, and affords an admirable view of the Houses of Parliament. It was the view from this bridge that suggested Wordsworth's fine sonnet, beginning 'Earth has not anything to show more fair'. Below the bridge, on the left bank, is the beginning of the Victoria Embankment (p. 115}; above, on the right bank, is the Albert Embankment, with the extensive Hospital of St. Thomas (p. 310). 18. Westminster Abbey. Westminster Column. Westminster School. Westminster Hospital. Royal Aquarium. On the low ground on the left bank of the Thames, where Westminster Abbey now stands , once overgrown with thorns and surrounded by water , and therefore called Thorney Isle , a church is said to have been erected in honour of St. Peter by the Anglo- Saxon king Sebert about 616. With the church was connected a Benedictine religious house fmonasterium, or minster), which, in reference to its position to the W. of the Cistercian Al3bey of St. Mary of the Graces (Eastminster ; see p. 128), was called **West- minster Abbey [PI. R, 25 ; IV). The church, after having been destroyed by the Danes, appears to have been re-erected by King Edgar in 985. The regular establish- ment of the Abbey, however, may be ascribed to Edward the Confessor, who built a church here which seems to have been almost as large as the present one (1049-65). The Abbey was entirely rebuilt in the latter half of the 13th cent, by Henry III. and his son Ed- ward I., who left it substantially in its present condition, though important alterations and additions were made in the two succeed- ing centuries. TheChapelof Henry VII. was erected by that monarch at the beginning of the 16th cent., and the towers were added by Sir C. Wren and Hawkesmore in 1722-40. The fagade of the N. transept was restored from designs by Sir G. G. Scott. At the Reformation the Abbey, which had been richly endowed by former kings , shared in the general fate of the religious houses ; its property was confiscated, and the church converted into the cathedral of a bishopric, which lasted only from Dec, 1540, to March, 1550. Under Queen Mary the monks returned, but Elizabeth restored the arrangements of Henry VIII., and conveyed the Abbey to a Dean, who presided over a chap- ter of 12 Canons. — The title Archbishop of Westminster, recently created by the Pope, is not officially recognised in England. Westminster Abbey t , with its royal burial-vaults and long series of monuments to celebrated men, is not unreasonably regarded by the English as their national Walhalla, or Temple of Fame ; and in- + The best guide to Westminster Abbey is the Deanery Ouide (illustrated) of the Pall Mall Garette (price 6(f.). 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 201 202 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY terment within its walls is considered the last and greatest honour ■which the nation can bestow on the most deserving of her offspring. The honour has often, however, been conferred on persons unworthy of it, and even on children. 'The spaciousness and gloom of this vast edifice produce a profound and mysterious awe. We step cautiously and softly about, as if fearful of disturbing tiie hallowed silence of the tomb ; while every footfall whispers along the walls, and chatters among the sepulchres, making us more sensible of the quiet we have interrupted. It seems as if the awful nature of the place presses down upon the soul, and hushes the beholder into noiseless reverence. We feel that we are surrounded by the con- gregated bones of the great men of past times , who have filled history with their deeds, and the earth with their renown'. — Washington Irving. The church is in the form of a Latin cross. The much admired chapel at the E. end is in the Perpendicular style. The other parts of the church, with the exception of the unpleasing and incongruous W. towers by Wren, and a few doubtful Norman remains, are Early English. The impression produced by the interior is very striking, owing to the harmony of the proportions, the richness of the colour- ing, and the beauty of the Purbeck marble columns and of the trl- forium. In many respects, however, the effect is sadly marred by restorations and by the egregiously bad taste displayed in several of the monuments. The choir extends beyond the transept into the nave, from which it is separated by an iron screen. In front of the altar is a curious old mosaic pavement with tasteful arabesques, brought from Rome in 1268 by Abbot Ware. The fine wood-work of the choir was executed in 1848. The organ was entirely rebuilt by Mr. Hill in 1884, and stands at the two extremities of the screen between the choir and the nave. The very elaborate and handsome reredos, erected in 1867, is chiefly composed of red and white alabaster. The large figures in the niches represent Moses, St. Peter, St. Paul, and David. The recess above the table con- tains a fine Venetian glass mosaic, by Salviati, representing the Last Supper. In the S. bay of the sanctuary is a portrait of Richard II. on panel, formerly in the Jerusalem Chamber, the oldest contemporary representation of an English sovereign. Behind it is some old tapestry from Westminster School, with the names of Westminster scholars painted on its ends. The Abbey, or, as it is officially termed, the Collegiate Church of St. Peter, is now decorated with upwards of 20 stained-glass windows. The total length of the church, including the chapel of Henry VII., is 513 ft. ; length of the transept from N. to S., 200 ft. ; breadth of nave and aisles, 75 ft., of transept, 80 ft. ; height of the church, 102 ft., of towers, 225 ft. The Abbey is usually entered by the door (Solomon's Porch) in the N. transept, near St. Margaret's Church. The nave, aisles, and transept are open gratis to the public daily (Sun. excepted), except during the hours of divine service, till 4 p.m. in winter and 6 p.m. in summer. Daily service at 8.30 (8 on Sun.), 10, and 3 o'clock. 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. ^03 In summer there is a special Sunday service in the nave at 7 p.m. A charge of 6d. (except onMon. andTues.) is made for admission to the chapels, vvhich are only shown to visitors accompanied by a ver- ger. Parties thus conducted start about every ^/ihr. from theS. gate of the ambulatory. Visitors are cautioned against accepting the use- less services of any of the numerous loiterers outside the church. The following list of the most interesting monuments which do not invariably imply interment in the Abbey, begins with theN. transept, and continues through the N. aisle, the S. aisle, and the S. transept (Poets' Corner), after which we enter the chapels. N. Transept. On the right, William Pitt. Lord Chatham^ the statesman (d. 1778), a large monument by Bacon. Above, in a niche, Chatham is represented in an oratorical attitude , with his right hand out- stretched ; at his feet are sitting two female figures, Wisdom and Courage ; in the centre, Britannia with a trident ; to the right and left. Earth and Sea. — Opposite — L. John Holies, Duke of Newcastle (d. 1711); large monument by Bird, in a debased style. The sarcophagus bears the semi-re- cumbent figure of the Duke ; to the right is Truth with her mirror, on the left, Wisdom ; above, on the columns and over the armorial bearings. Genii. — Adjacent — L. *George Canning, the statesman (d. 1827); statue by Chan- trey. — Adjacent, his son — L. Charles John, Viscount Canning, Governor-General of India (d. 1862), statue by Foley. Close by is their relative. Viscount Stratford de Redcliffe (d. 1880), long British ambassador in Constantinople ; statue by Boehm, with an epitaph by Tennyson. L. Sir John Malcolm, General (d. 1833), one of the chief pro- moters of the English power in India ; statue by Chantrey. Adjacent, Lord Beaconsfield (d. 1881), statue by Boehm. R. Lord Palmerston, the statesman (d. 1865) ; statue by Jack- son, in the costume of a Knight of the Garter. — Adjoining — R. William Bayne , William Blair , and Lord Manners , naval officers who 'were mortally wounded in the course of the naval en- gagements under the command of Admiral Sir George Brydges Rodney on the 9th and 12th of April, 1782', by Nollekens. L. William Cavendish, Duke of Newcastle (d. 1676), and his wife ; a double sarcophagus, with recumbent figures in the costume of the period, under a rich canopy. — Adjacent — L. *Sir Peter Warren, Admiral (d. 1752), by Roubiliac. Her- cules places the bust of the Admiral on a pedestal , while Navi- gation looks on with mournful admiration. — Opposite — R. Robert , Marquis of Londonderry and Viscount Castlereagh, the statesman (d. 1822); statue by Thomas. The scroll in his hand 204 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. bears the (now scarcely legible) inscription, 'Peace of Paris, 1814'. Next to it — L. *WUliam, Lord Mansfield, the statesman and judge [d. 1793), by FLaxman. Above is the Judge on the judicial bench , in his official robes; on the left is Justice with her scales, on the right, Wisdom opening the book of the law. Behind the bench is Lord Mansfield's motto : ' uni sequus virtuti' , with the ancient represen- tation of death, a youth bearing an extinguished torch. — Opposite, by the railing of the ambulatory — L. Sir Robert Peel, the statesman (d. 1850) ; statue by Gibson. Henry Grattan (d. 1820), Charles Fox (p. 203), and the two Pitts are all buried in this transept. It was the proximity here of the graves of Fox and the younger Pitt (p. 206) that suggested Scott's well-known lines : — 'Drop upon Fox's grave the tear, Twill trickle to his rival's bier\ W. Aisle of N. Transept. R. George Gordon, Earl of Aberdeen, the statesman (d. 1860); bust by Noble. R. *Elizabeth Warren (d. 1816), widow of the Bishop of Bangor, by Westmacott. The fine monument represents, in half life-size, a poor mother sitting with her child in her arms, in allusion to the benevolence of the deceased. — Adjoining — R. Sir George Cornewall Lewis, statesman (d. 1863); bust by Weekes. — Adjacent — R. Sir Eyre Coote, General, Commander-in-Chief of the British forces in India (d. 1788); colossal monument by Banks, erected by the East India Company. R. Francis Horner, Member of Parliament (d. 1817); statue by Chantrey. — Opposite — L. Sir John Balchen, Admiral, who in 1744 was lost with his. flag-ship and crew of nearly 1000 men in the English Channel ; with a relief of the wrecked vessel, by Scheemakers. R. General Hope, Governor of Quebec (d. 1789), by Bacon; a mourning Indian woman bends over the sarcophagus. — Above — R. Warren Hastings, Governor-General of India (d. 1818); bust by Bacon. — To the left — Richard Cobden, the politician and champion of free-trade (d. 1865); bust by Woolner. — Above — Sir Henry Maine, professor of jurisprudence and the 'friend of India' (d. 1888), marble medallion by Boehm. — R. Earl of Halifax, the statesman (d. 1771); bust by Bacon. At the end of the passage, in three niches in the wall above, separated by palm-trees, is the monument of — Admiral Watson (d. 1757), by Scheemakers. The Admiral, in a toga, is sitting in the centre, holding a palm branch. On the right the town of Calcutta on her knees presents a petition to her conqueror. On the left is an Indian in chains , emblematical of Chandernagore, also conquered by the Admiral. 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 205 N. Aisle. On the left. Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton (d. 1845), Member of Parliament , one of the champions of the movement for the abol- ition of slavery, by Thrupp. — Close by, W. E. Forster (d. 1886), M. P. and educationalist; medallion portrait head. — Farther on — L. Balfe (d. 1870), the composer, medallion by Mallempre. L. Hugh Chamberlain^ physician (d. 1728), by Scheemakers and Delvaux; recumbent figure upon a sarcophagus; on the right and lef^, two allegorical figures, representing Health and Medicine. li. Tablets to Charles Burney (d. 1814), the historian of music, and John Blow (d. 1708) , the composer and organist. — Then — R. William Croft, organist of the Abbey (d. 1727), with a bust. On the floor are the tombstones o'l Henry Purcell (d. 1695), organist of the Abbey, and W. Sterndale Bennet (d. 1875), the composer. L. *Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, Governor of Java and founder of the Zoological Society (d. 1826; comp, p. 237), sitting figure, by Chantrey. L. * William Wilberforce (d. 1833), one of the chief advocates for the emancipation of the slaves ; sitting figure, by Joseph. R. *George Lindsay Johnstone (d. 1815); fine monument by Flaxman, erected by the sister of the deceased. On a sarcophagus, with a small medallion of the deceased, is a mourning female figure. L. Lord John Thynne, D. D., Sub-Dean of the Abbey (d. 1881), recumbent figure by Armstead. To the left, at the end of the choir : — Sir Isaac Newton (d. 1726), by Rysbrack. The half recumbent figure of Newton reposes on a black sarcophagus, beside which are two small Genii unfolding a scroll. Below is a relief in marble, in- dicating the labours of the deceased. Above is an allegorical figure of Astronomy upon a large globe. Charles Darwin (d. 1882), the eminent naturalist, and Sir John Herschel (d. 1871), the astronomer, are buried within a few yards of Newton's tomb (memorial slabs in the floor). — The window above is a memorial of Robert Stephenson (d. 1859), the engineer. In the N. aisle, farther on : — R. Richard Mead, the physician (d. 1754), with bust, by Schee- makers. — Above, in the window : — *Spencer Perceval, Chancellor of the Exchequer and First Lord of the Treasury, who was murdered at Westminster Hall in 1812, by Westmacott. Recumbent figure upon a sarcophagus ; at the head a mourning figure of Strength, and at the foot Truth and Mod- eration. The bas-relief above represents the murder ; the second figure to the left is that of the murderer, Bellingham. R. Mrs. Mary Beaufoy (d. 1705); group by Grinling Gibbons. R. Robert Killigrew , General , killed at Almanza in Spain in 1707, by Bird. — In front of this monument Ben Jonson is buried (p. 210), with the words '0 Rare Ben Johnson ! ' cut in the pave- 206 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. ment. The stone wifh the original inscription is now built into the wall close to the floor beneath Killigrew's monument. Close by, under a modern brass, lies John Hunter (d. 1793), the celebrated surgeon and anatomist, brought here in 1859 from St. Martin's in the Fields. — The window above was erected to the memory of Isambard Brunei (d. 1859), the engineer. R., above, Sir Charles Lyell^ the geologist (d. 1875), bust by Theed. R. * Charles James Fox , the famous statesman (d. 1806), by Wesimacott. The figure of the deceased lies on a couch, and is supported by the arms of Liberty ; at his feet are Peace, with an olive branch, and a liberated negro slave. We have now reached the Belfry Tower, called by Dean Stanley the 'Whig Corner'. R. *Captain Montagu (d. 1794), by Flaxman. Statue on a lofty pedestal, crowned by the Goddess of Victory. R. Sir James Mackintosh, the historian (d, 1832); bust by Theed. R. George Tierney , the orator (d. 1830); bust by Westmacott. R. Marquis of Lansdowne (d. 1863); bust "by Boehm. R. Lord Holland, the statesman (d. 1840); large monument, by Baily. Below is the entrance to a vault, on the steps to which on the left the Angel of Death , and on the right Literature and Science are posted. R. John, Earl Russell (d. 1878), bust. R. Zachary Macaulay (d. 1838), the father of Lord Macaulay, and a noted advocate for the abolition of slavery; bust by Weekes Having now reached the end of the N. aisle, we turn to the left (S.), where on the N. side of the principal (W.) Entrance, at the end of the nave, we observe the monuments of — Antony Ashley Cooper, Earl of Shaftesbury (d. 1885), a marble statue by Boehm, and — Jeremiah Horrocks, the astronomer (d. 1641). Above the door is the monument of — *William Pitt, the renowned statesman [d. 1806), by Westma- cott. At the top stands the statue of Pitt as Chancellor of the Exchequer, in the act of speaking. To the right is History listen- ing to his words ; on the left. Anarchy in chains. On the S. side of the door is the monument of Admiral Sir Thomas Hardy (d. 1732), by Cheere. R. James Cornewall, Captain [d. 1743), by Tayler. At the foot of a low pyramid of Sicilian marble is a grotto in white marble, with a relief of the naval battle of Toulon, where Cornewall fell. The mon- ument terminates above in a palm-tree with the armorial bearings. S. Aisle. In the baptistery at the W. end : — James Craggs, Secretary of State (d. 1721); statue hy Guelphi^ with inscription by Pope. William Wordsworth, the poet (d. 1850); statue by Lough. 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 207 Rev. John Keble (d. 1866); bust by Woolner. The baptistery also contains busts, by Woolner, of the Rev. Fred. D. Maurice (d. 1872) and the Rev. Charles Kingsley (d. 1875), one of Matthew Arnold (d. 1888) by Bruce Joy, and a bronze me- dallion o{ Professor Henry Fawcett (d. 1884), by Alfred Oilbert, with a row of small allegorical flgxires. The stained-glass windows were placed here by Mr. George W. Childs of Philadelphia in memory of Oeorge Herbert (d. 1632) and William Cowper (d. 1800). We now continue to follow the S. aisle. Slab on the floor: Bishop Atterbury (d. 1732). To the right, above the door leading to the Deanery, is the Abbot's Pew, a small oaken gallery, constructed by Abbot Islip in the 16th century. On the right: William Congreve, the dramatist (d. 1728), by Bird, with a medallion and a sarcophagus of Egyptian marble. The monument was erected by Henrietta, Duchess of Marlborough. R. William Buckland, the geologist (d. 1856), bust by Weekes. R. Lord Lawrence (d. 1879), Governor-General of India ; bust by Woolner. — Above the door to the cloisters (see p. 223) — *George Wade, General (d. 1748) , by Roubiliac. The Goddess of Fame is preventing Time from destroying the General's trophies, which are attached to a column. R. Sir James Outram, General (d. 1863); bust by Noble. Below are Outram and Lord Clyde shaking hands, and between them is General Havelock. At the sides are mourning figures, representing Indian tribes. — Above, occupying the whole recess of the window — R. William Hargrove, General (d. 1750), by Roubiliac. The General is descending from his sarcophagus, while Time, represent- ed allegorically, conquers Death and breaks his arrow. — Adjacent is a tablet recording the burial in the Nave uf Sir William Temple (d. 1699) and his wife, Dorothy Osborne (d. 1695). Sidney, Earl Godolphin (A. 17 IT), Lord High Treasurer, hy Bird. R. Colonel Townshend, who fell in Canada in 1759, 'by Eck- stein. Two Indian warriors bear the white marble sarcophagus, which is adjoined by a pyramid of coloured Sicilian marble. R. John Andre, Major, executed in America as a spy in 1780. Sarcophagus with mourning Britannia, by Van Gelder. On this mon- ument is a wreath of autumn leaves, a gift from America. — Oppo- site, in the nave, by the end of the choir : — James , Earl Stanhope , ambassador and minister of war (d, 1720), by Rysbrack. — Then, returning to the S. aisle : — L. Thomas Thynn, murdered in Pall Mall in 1682 by assassins hired by Count Koningsmarck , whose object was the hand of Thynne's wife, a wealthy heiress, by Quellin. The relief on the pedestal is a representation of the murder. R. Dr. Isaac Watts, the famous divine and hymn-writer (d. 1748), with bust by Banks. R. John Wesley, founder of the Methodists (d. 1791), and Charles Wesley (d. 1788), by Van Qelder, relief by Adams-Acton. 208 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. R. Charles Burney, philologist (d. 1818); bust ty Gahagan. L. Thomas Owen, judge (d. 1598); an interesting old painted monument, with a life-size recumhent figure leaning on the right arm. — By the adjoining pillar — L. Pasquale Paoli the well-known Corsican general (d. 1807), formerly huried in old St. Pancras Churchyard, but transferred to Corsica in 1889; bust by Flaxman. — Opposite — R. Sir Cloudesley Shovel, Admiral (d. 1707), by Bird, recumbent figure under a canopy. — Above — Sir Godfrey Kneller, the painter (d. 1723), hy Rysbrack; bust under a canopy. The monument was designed by Kneller himself, who is the only painter commemorated in the abbey. He waa buried in his own garden, at Kneller Hall, Twickenham. Here is a door leading to the E. walk of the cloisters and to the chapter-house [p. 223). L. Sir Thomas Richardson, judge fd. 1634), old monument by Le Soeur. L. Dr. Andrew Bell, the founder of the Madras system of edu- cation (d. 1832), with relief representing him examining a class of boys, by Behnes. In the middle of the nave lie, amongst others, David Living- stone, the celebrated African traveller (d. 1873), Sir Charles Barry, the architect (d. 1860), Robert Stephenson, the engineer (d. 1859), Lord Clyde (d. 1863), Sir James Outram (d. 1863 ; the 'Bayard of India'), Sir George Pollock (d. 1872), Lord Lawrence (d. 1879), Sir G. G. Scott, the architect (d. 1878 ; with a brass by Street), and G. E. Street (d. 1881), the architect of the New Law Courts. We now turn to the right and enter the — S. Transept and Pobts' Corner. On the right: George Grote (d. 1871) and Bishop Thirlwall (d. 1875), two historians of Greece who now share one grave. Grote's bust is by Bacon. R. William Camden, the antiquary (d. 1623). Above — David Garrick, the famous actor (d. 1779) ; large group in relief, by Webber. Garrick is stepping out from behind a curtain, which he opens with extended arms. Below are the comic and the tragic Muse. — Below — Isaac Casaubon, the scholar (d. 1614). On this stone, near the foot, is the monogram I. W., scratched here by Izaak Walton in 1658. — Above — John Ernest Grabe , the Oriental scholar (d. 1711); sittiog figure by Bird. — Several uninteresting monuments ; then - — Isaac Barrow, the scholar and mathematician (d. 1677). Joseph Addison, the essayist (d. 1719; p. 215); statue by Westmacott. On the base are the Muses in relief. Lord Macaulay, the historian (d. 1859); bust by Burnard. 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 209 W. M. Thackeray, the novelist and humorist (d. 1863); bust by Marochetti. — Above — Oeorge Frederick Handel, the composer (d. 1759), the last work from the chisel of Roubiliac; life-size statue surrounded by music and instruments ; above, among the clouds, a heavenly choir ; in the background, an organ. — Below, Jenny Lind Ooldschmidt, the singer (d. 1887) ; medallion portrait-head, by Birch. Sir Archibald Campbell, General (d. 1791), by Wilton. — Below, to the right — James Stuart Mackenzie, Lord Privy Seal for Scotland (d. 1800); medallion-portrait, by Nollekens. — By the S. wall : — *John, Duke of Argyll and Greenwich (d. 1743) ; a large monu- ment by Roubiliac. On a black sarcophagus rests the half-recumb- ent, life-size figure of the Duke, supported by History, who is writing his name on a pyramid. On the pedestal, to the left. Elo- quence ; to the right, Valour. Above the doorway of the chapel of St. Blaise (p. 224) : — Oliver Goldsmith (d. 1774), buried at the Temple (p. 142); medallion by Nollekens. — Then — John Oay, the poet (d. 1732), 'by Rysbrack, A small Genius holds the medallion. The irreverent inscription, by Gay himself, runs: — 'Xi/e is a jest ;and all things show it : I thought so once, but now I know it\ Nicolas Rowe, the poet (d. 1718), and his only daughter, by Rysbrack. Above, the medallion of the daughter. — Then — James Thomson, the poet of the 'Seasons' (d. 1748) ; statue by Spang. — Adjacent — * William Shakspeare (d. 1616), designed by Z^en<, and executed by Scheemakers. The figure of the Poet, placed on a pedestal re- sembling an altar , is represented with the right arm leaning on a pile of his works ; the left hand holds a roll bearing the titles of his chief writings. On the pedestal are the masks of Queen Eliza- beth, Henry V., and Richard III. Above, Robert Burns (d. 1796), bust by Steell. Robert Southey, the poet (d. 1843), bust by Weekes. 8. T. Coleridge, the poet (d. 1834), bust hyHamo Thornycroft. — Then, opposite Addison's statue — Thomas Campbell, thepoet(d. 1844), statue hy Marshall. — The grave of Charles Dickens (d. 1870) is between the statues of Ad- dison and Campbell, and is surrounded by the tombs of Handel, Sheridan, and Cumberland. Garrick, Dr. Johnson, and Macaulay are also buried here. Passing round the pillar we now enter the — E. Aisle of the Poets' Cobnbr. On the right. Granville Sharp (d. 1813), one of the chief ad- vocates for the abolition of slavery, medallion by Chantrey. — Above : Baedeker, London. 9th Edit. 14 210 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. Charles de St. Denis, Seigneur de St. Evremont, author, French Marshal, afterwards in the service of England (d. 1703), bust. — Below — Matthew Prior, politician and poet (d. 1721), large monument by Rysbrack. In a niche is Prior's bust by Coyzevox (presented by Louis XIV. of France); below, a black sarcophagus, adjoined by two allegorical figures of (r.) History and (1.) Thalia. At the top are two boys, with a torch and an hour-glass. — Then — William Mason, the poet (d. 1797) ; medallion, mourned over by Poetry, by Bacon. — Over it — Thomas Shadwell, the poet (d. 1692), by Bird. — Below — Thomas Gray, the poet (d. 1771); medallion, held by the Muse of poetry, by Bacon. — Above — John Milton (ji. 1674; buried in St. Giles's Church, Oripplegate), bust by Rysbrack (1737). Below is a lyre, round which is twining a serpent with an apple, in allusion to 'Paradise Lost'. — Below — Edmund Spenser (d. 1598; buried near Chaucer), 'the prince of poets in his tyme', as the inscription says ; a simple, altar-like mon- ument, with ornaments of light-coloured marble above. — Above — Samuel Butler, author of 'Hudibras' (d. 1680), with bust. — Then : Ben Jonson (d. 1637), poet-laureate to James I., and contem- porary of Shakspeare ; medallion by Rysbrack (1737) ; on the pede- stal the inscription, '0 rare Ben Johnson I' (comp. p. 205). — Michael Drayton, the poet (d. 1631), with bust. Barton Booth, the actor (d. 1733), an ancestor of Edwin Booth, with medallion, by Tyler. John Phillips, the poet (d. 1708) ; portrait in relief. The tomb of Geoffrey Chaucer (d. 1400), the father of English poetry, is on the same side, close by, and consists of an altar-sarcoph- agus (supposed to be from Grey Friars Church, p. 92) under a canopy let into the wall (date, 1556). The tomb was erected by Nicholas Brigham (d. 1558), who is said to have removed Chaucer's remains from the cloister. — Above it is a fine stained-glass window, erect- ed in 1868, with scenes from Chaucer's poems, and a likeness of the poet. Abraham Cowley, the poet (d. 1667), with urn, hy Bushnell. Robert Browning, the poet (d. 1889), is buried directly in front of Cowley's monument; and side by side with him lies Lord Tennyson, poet laureate (d. 1892). H. W. Longfellow, the poet (d. 1882), bust by Brock. John Dryden, the poet (d. 1700) ; bust by Scheemakers. Archbishop Tail (d. 1883); marble bust by Armstead (at the entrance to the choir-ambulatory). Robert South, the preacher (d. 1716) ; statue by Bird. Richard Busby (d. 1695 ; see p. 224) ; statue by Bird. In front of Dryden's tomb is a blue slab in the floor, believed to commemorate Robert Handle, murdered in the choir in 1378 by the 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 211 followers of John of Gaunt. The church was closed for four months until the outraged privileges of sanctuary were again confirmed to it. — In the centre of the 8. transept is a white slab, covering the remains of 'Old Parr' (d. 1635), who is said to have reached the age of 152 years. To the left of the entrance to the ambulatory is an old altar- decoration of the 13th or 14th cent., below which is the old monument of the Saxon king Sebert (d. 616) and his wife Athelgoda (d. 615). We now repair to the *Chapels, which follow each other in the following order (starting from the Poets' Corner). I. Chapbl of St. Benedict. 1. Archbishop Langham{^. 1376) ; with recumbent figure. 2. Lady Frances Hertford (d. 1598). 3. Br. Ooodman, Dean of Westminster (d. 1601). 4. A son of Dr. Spratt. *5. Lionel Cranfield, Earl of Middlesex (d. 1645), Lord High Treasurer in the time of James I., and his vnfe. 6. Dr. Bill(^di. 1561), first Dean of Westminster under Elizabeth. I 3 I ! i_ 5 2 6 1 Near this is the tomb of Ann of Cleves (d. 1557), fourth wife of Henry VIII. II. Chapel of St. Edmund, King of the East Anglians. *1. John of Eltham, second son of Edward II., who died in 1334 in his nineteenth year. Sarcophagus with life-size alabaster figure. 2. Earl of Stafford (d. 1762) ; slab, by Chambers. 3. Nicholas Monk (d. 1661), Bishop of Hereford, brother of the famous Duke of Albemarle (p. 215) ; slab and pyramid, by Woodman. 4. William of Windsor and Blanche de la Tour (d. 1340), children of Edward III., who both died young ; ',small sarcophagus, with recumbent alabaster figures 20 in. in length. 5. Duchess of Suffolk (d. 1558), granddaughter of Henry VII. and mother of Lady Jane Grey ; recumbent figure. 6. Francis Holies, son of the Earl of Clare, who died in 1622, at the age of 18, on his return from a campaign in Flanders, in which he had greatly distinguished himself; sitting figure, hy Stone. 7. Lady Jane Seymour (d. 1560), daughter of the Duke of Somerset. 14* 212 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 8. Lady Katharine Knollya (d. 1568), cMef Lady of the Bed- chamber to Queen Elizabeth, niece of Anne Boleyn, and grand- mother of the Queen's favourite, the Earl of Essex. 9. Lady Elizabeth Russell (d. 1601), a handsome sitting figure of alabaster, in an attitude of sleep. The Latin inscription says, 'she sleeps, she is not dead'. 10. Lord John Russell [d. 1584), and his son Francis ; sarco- phagus with a recumbent figure, resting on the left arm, in official robes, with the boy at the feet. 11. Sir Bernard Brocas of Beaurepaire, Chamberlain to Queen Anne, wife of Richard II., beheaded on Tower Hill in 1399 ; an interesting old monument in the form of a Gothic chapel, with re- cumbent figure of a praying knight ; at the feet, a lion. 12. Sir Humphrey Bourgchier, partisan of Edward IV., who fell Chapel of St. Edmund. on Easter Day, 1471, at the battle of Barnet Field. Altar monument, with the figure of a knight, the head resting on a helmet, one foot on a leopard, and the other on an eagle. 13. Sir Richard Pecksall (d. 1571), Master of the Buckhounds to Queen Elizabeth; canopy with three niches. *14. Edward Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury {A. 1617), and his wife; figures lying under a canopy on a slab of black marble with a pedestal of alabaster. 15. William de Valence, jEarZ o/" Pem&rofcc, who fell at Bayonne in 1296 ; recumbent wooden figure, overlaid with metal, the feet resting on a lion. 16. Robert de Waldeby, Archbishop of York (d. 1397), once an Augustinian monk and the companion of Edward the Black Prince in France , tutor to Richard II. ; mediaeval monument, with en- graved figure. *17. Eleanora de Bohun, Duchess of Gloucester, Abbess of Bark- ing [d. 1399), one of the most interesting monuments in the Abbey. Her husband was smothered at Calais between two feather-beds by 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 213 order of Ri chard II, , his nephew. She is represented in the dress of a nun of Barking. The inscription is in old French. 18. Mary, Countess of Stafford (d. 1693), wife of Lord Stafford, who was beheaded on Tower Hill in 1680. 19. Dr. Feme, Bishop of Chester, Grand Almoner of Charles I. (d. 1661). Edward Dulwer Lytton, the novelist (d. 1873), and Lord Her- bert of Cherbnry (d. 1678) are buried under slabs in this chapel. III. Chapel of St. Nicholas, Bishop of Myra. 1. Lady Cecil, Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Elizabeth (d. 1591). 2. Lady Jane Clifford, daughter ofthe Duke ofSomerset(d. 1679). 3. Countess of Beverley ; small tombstone with the inscription, 'Esperance en Dieu (d. 1812), by NoUekens. 4. Anne, Duchess of Somerset (d. 1587), widow of the Protector Chapel of St. Nicholas, (beheaded on Tower Hill in 1552, see p. 126), and sister-in-law of Jane Seymour, third wife of Henry "VIII. ; recumbent figure. 5. Westmoreland Family. — Above — 6. Baron Carew (d. 1470) and his wife , mediaeval monument, with kneeling figures. 7. Nicholas Bagenall (d. 1687), overlain by his nurse when an infant. *8. Lady Mildred Burleigh (d. 1588), wife of Lord Burleigh, the famous minister, and her daughter Anne. Lady Burleigh, says the epitaph, was well versed in the Greek sacred writers, and founded a scholarship at St. John's College, Oxford. Recumbent figures. 9. William Dudley, Bishop of Durham (d. 1483). 10. Anna Sophia Harley (d. 1601), the infant daughter of a French ambassador. 11. Lady Ross fd. 1591); mediaeval monument. 12. Marchioness of Winchester (d. 1586). 13. Duchess of Northumberland (d. 1776), by Read. 214 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 14. Philippa de Bohun, Duchess of York (d. 1431), wife of Edward Plantagenet, who fell at Agiiicourtliil415. Old monument with effigy of the deceased in long drapery. *15. Sir George Villiers (d. 1605) and his wife [d. 1632), the parents of the Duke of Buckingham, favourite of James I. ; mon- ument with recumbent figures , in the centre of the chapel , by Stone. — The remains of Katherine of Valois , wife of Henry V. fd. 1437), lay below this tomb for 350 years (comp. p. 218). 16. Sir Humphrey Stanley (d. 1505). Opposite us, on leaving this chapel, under the tomb of Henry V., is a bronze laust of Sir Robert Aiton, the poet (1570-1638), executed by Farelli from a portrait by Van Dyck. Alton was secretary of two Queens Consort and a friend of Jonson, Drummond, and Hobbes. The earliest known version of 'Auld Lang Syne' was written by him, IV. A flight of twelve black marble steps now leads into the **Chapel of Henry VII., a superb structure erected in 1502-20 on the site of an old chapel of the Virgin Mary. The roses in the decoration of the fine brass-covered gates are an allusion to the marriage of Henry VII., founder of the Tudor family, with Eliza- beth, daughter of Edward IV. , which united the Houses of York and Lancaster, and put an end to the Wars of the Roses (comp. p. 142). The chapel consists of nave and aisles, with five small chapels at the E. end. The aisles are entered by doors on the right and left of the main gate. On the left stands the font. The chapel contains about 100 statues and figures. On each side are carved choir-stalls in dark oak , admirably designed and beautifully exe- cuted ; the quaint carvings on the 'misereres' under the seats are worthy of examination. Each stall is appropriated to a Knight of the Order of the Bath, the lower seats being for the squires. Each seat bears the armorial bearings of its occupant in brass, and above each are a sword and banner. The chief glory of this chapel, however, is its fan tracery ceiling with its fantastic pendentives, each surface being covered with rich fret-work, exhibiting the florid Perpendicular style in its utmost luxuriance. The airiness, elegance, and richness of this exquisite work can scarcely be over-praised. The best survey of the chapel is gained either from the entrance door, or from the small chapel at the opposite extremity, behind the monument of the founder, whose portrait is to be seen in the stained-glass window above. 'On entering, the eye is astonislied by the pomp of architecture, and the elaborate beauty of sculptured detail. The very walls are wrought into universal ornament, incrusted with tracery, and scooped into niches, crowded with the statues of saints and martyrs. Stone seems, by the cunning labour of the chisel, to have been robbed of its weight and density, suspended aloft, as if by magic, and the fretted roof achieved with the wonderful minuteness and airy security of a cobweb.' — Washington Irving. We first turn our attention to the S. aisle of the chapel, where we observe the following monuments: *1. Lady Mar5rare«I>owj^ia5(d. 1577), daughter of Margaret, Queen 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 215 of Scotland, great-granddaughter of Edward IV., granddaughter of Henry VII., niece of Henry VIII., cousin of Edward VI., sister of James V. of Scotland, mother of Henry I. of Scot- land (Lord Darnley), and grandmother of James VI. Her seven children kneel round the sarcophagus ; the eighth figure is her grandson. King James. 2. Mary, Queen of Scots, beheaded in 1587, an inartistic monument by -Sfione (d. 1607), represent- ing a recumbent figure under a canopy, in a pray- ing attitude. The remains of the Queen are buried in a vault below the monu- ment. Adjacent, on the wall, hangs a photographic copy of the warrant issued by James I. in 1612 for the removal of his mo- ther's body from Peter- borough Cathedral to Westminster Abbey. 3. Margaret, Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VII. (d 1509); recumbent metal effigy, by Torregiano. 4. Lady Walpole (d. 1737) , first wife of Sir Robert Walpole, executed by Valori after an ancient statue of Livia or Pudicitia in the Villa Mattel, Rome, and brought from Italy by her son, Horace Walpole. 5. Oeorge Monk, Duke of Albemarle (d. 1670), the restorer of the Stuarts, by Scheemakers. Rostral column, with life-size figure of the Duke. In Monk's vault, which is in the N. aisle, are also buried Addison (d. 1719; p. 208) and Secretary Craggs (d. 1721). In the vault in front of it are buried Entrance Charles II., William III. and Queen \ Mary his wife, and Queen Anne and her consort Prince George of Denmark. We now enter the nave, which contains the following monuments (beginning from the chapel on the left) : — [\ 3 Q Q South Aisle of the Chapel of Henri VII. 216 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 1. George Villiers^ Duke of Buckingham, the favonrite of Jamesl. and Charles I., murdered in 1628 by the fanatic Felton, and his consort. The monument is of iron. At the feet of the recumbent effigies of the deceased is Fame blowing a trumpet. At the front corners of the sarcophagus are Neptune and Mars, at those at the back two mourning females, all in a sitting posture. At the top, on their knees, are the life-size children of the deceased. 2. John Sheffield, Duke of Buckinghamshire (d. 1721), and his wife, by Scheemakers. The figure of the Duke is half-recumbent, and in Roman costume. At his feet is the duchess, weeping. Above is Time with the medallions. Anne of Denmark (d. 1618), consort of James I, is interred in front of this monument. *3. Duke of Montpensier (d. 1807), brother of King Louis Phi- lippe, recumbent figure in white marble, by Westmacott. Dean Stanley (d. 1881 ; recumbent statue by Boehm"), and his wife. Lady Augusta Stanley (d. 1876), are buried in this chapel. 4. Esme Stuart, who died in 1661, in his eleventh year; pyr- amid with an urn containing the heart of the deceased. In the E. chapel were interred Oliver Cromwell and some of his followers, removed in 1661. 5. Lewis Stuart, Duke of Richmond (d. 1623), father^s cousin and friend of James I., and his wife. Double sarcophagus with re- cumbent figures. The iron canopy is borne by figures of Faith, Hope, Charity, and Wisdom. Above is a fine figure of Fame. *6. Henry VII. (d. 1509) and his wife iJiiza&ef/i of York (d. 1502); metal monument, by Torregiano. It occupies the centre of the eastern part of the chapel, and is enclosed by a tasteful chantry of brass. On the double sarcophagus are the recumbent figures of the royal pair in their robes. The compartments at the sides of the tomb are embellished with sacred representations. — James I, (d. 1625) is buried in the same vault as Henry VH. George II. and a number of members of the royal family are interred , without monuments , in front of the tomb of Henry VII. Also Edward VI. (d. 1553), whose monument by Torregiano was destroyed by the Republicans, and is replaced by a modern Renais- sance altar (No. 7 in plan, p. 216). The marble frieze and two of the columns, however, belong to the original. To the left is the tomb of Elizabeth Claypole (d. 1658), second daughter of Oliver Cromwell, marked by an inscription in the pavement. — Adjacent is an old pulpit of the Reformation period, probably the one in which Cranmer preached the coronation and funeral sermons of Edward VI. The monuments in the northern aisle of this chapel are not less interesting than those in the southern. *1. Queen Elizabeth (d. 1603), by Stone. Here also is comme- morated Elizabeth's sister and predecessor Mary (d. i558), who is buried beneath. 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 217 I 3 North Aisle of the Cha- pel of Henry VII. E Entrance. 2. Sophia, daugliter of James I., who was born in 1607, and died when three days old. Small recumbent figure in a cradle. 3. Edward V. and his brother, the Duke of York, the sons of Edward IV. , murdered in the Tower when chil- dren, by Richard III., in 1483. Some bones, supposed to be those of the un- fortunate boys, were found in a chest below a staircase in the Tower (see p. 122), and brought hither. Small sarcophagus in a niche. 4. Mary, daughter of James I., who died in 1607 at the age of two years. Small altar- tomb. 5. George Saville, Marquis of Hali- fax, Lord Keeper of the Privy Seal during several reigns (d, 1695). 6. Charles Montague, Earl of Hali- fax, Lord High Treasurer (d. 1715). — The earl was the patron of Addison (d. 1719; p. 215), who is commemorated by a slab in front of this monument. After quitting the Chapel of Henry VII. and descending the steps, we see in front of us the Chantry of Henry V. (p. 218), with its finely sculptured arch, over which is represented the coronation of that monarch (1413). A slab on the floor marks the vault of the Earls of Clarendon, including the distinguished historian (d. 1674). V. Chapel of St. Paul. 1. Sir Rowland Hill (1795-1879), the originator of the system of penny postage ; bust by Keyworth. 2. Sir Henry Belasyse (d. 1717), Lieutenant-General and Gov- ernor of Galway. Pyramid by Scheemakers. 3. Sir John Puckering (d. 1596), Keeper of the Great Seal under Queen Elizabeth, and his wife. Recumbent figures under a canopy. 4. Sir James Fullerton (d. 1630), First Gentleman of the Bed- chamber to Charles I., and his wife. Recumbent marble figures. 5. Sir Thomas Bromley (d. 1587), Lord Chancellor under Queen Elizabeth. Recumbent figure ; below, his eight children. 6. Sir Dudley Carleton (d. 1631), diplomatist under James I.; semi-recumbent figure, by Stone. 7. Countess of Sussex (d. 1589) ; at her feet is a porcupine. 8. Lord Cottington, statesman in the reign of Charles I. (d. 1652), and his wife. Handsome black marble monument, with the recumbent figure of Lord Cottington in white marble, by Fanelliy and, at the top, a bust of Lady Cottington (d. 1633), by Le Soeur. *9. James Watt (d. 1819), the improver of the steam-engine ; colossal figure in a sitting posture, by Chantrey. 218 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. *10. Sir Giles Daubeney (d. 1507), Lord-Lieutenant of Calais under Henry VII., and Ms wife. Recumbent effigies in alabaster, painted. 11. Lewis Robsart (d. 1431), standard-bearer of Henry V. ; an interesting old monument, without an effigy. Chapel of St. Paul. This chapel contains an ancient stone coffin found in digging the grave of Sir Rowland Hill. To the right, on leaving this chapel, is a monument to William Pulteney^ Earl of Bath (d. 1764), by Wilton:, and beside it another to Rear-Admiral Charles Holmes (d. 1761), also by Wilton. Op- posite is a screen of wrought iron executed by an English black- smith in 1293. *VI. Chapel of St. Edward thb Confessor, forming the end of the choir, to which we ascend by a small flight of narrow steps. (The following chapel, No. VII., is sometimes shown before this.) 1. *Henry III. (d. 1272), a rich and artistic monument of por- phyry and mosaic, with recumbent bronze effigy of the King, by William Tor el (1290). 2. (?ween.Bfeanor, first wife of Edward L (d. 1290), hy Torel. The inscription is in quaint old French: — 'Ici gist Alianor, jadis reyne d'Angleterre, femme a Rey Eduard Fiz'. Recumbent metal effigy. 3. Chantry of Henry V. (d. 1422). On each side a life-size figure keeps guard by the steps. The recumbent effigy of the King wants the head, which was of solid silver, and was stolen during the reign of Henry VIII. In 1878 the remains of Katherine of Va- lois(d.l437), queenof Henry V. (the 'beautiful Kate' of Shakspeares 'Henry V.') were re-interred in this chantry, whence they had been removed on the building of Henry VII. 's. Chapel. On the bar above this monument are placed the saddle, helmet, and shield said to have been used by Henry V. at the battle of Agincourt. 4. Philippa (d. 1369), wife of Edward III., and mother of four- teen children. She was the daughter of the Count of Hainault, and 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 219 1 11 12 c^ was related to no fewer than thirty crowned heads, statuettes of whom were formerly to be seen grouped round the sarcophagus. 5. Edward III. (d. 1377), recumbent metal figure on a sarcophagus of grey marble. This monument was once sur- rounded by statuettes of the King's children and others. The pavement in front of it dates from 1260. 6. Margaret Woodville (d. 1472), a daughter of Ed- ward IV., who died in in- fancy. Monument without an effigy. 7. Richard II., murdered on St. Valentine's Day, 1399, and his queen. The wooden canopy bears an old and cu- rious representation of the Saviour and the Virgin. 8. The old Coronation Chair, of oak, made by Ed- ward I., and — 9. The new Coronation Chair, made in 1689 for Queen Mary, wife of William III., on the model of the old one, and last used by Queen Adelaide in 1831. The former contains under the seat the famous -Sfone of »Scone, the emblem of the power of the Scottish Princes, and traditionally said to be that once used by the patriarch Jacob as a pillow. It is a piece of sandstone from the W. coast of Scotland, and may very probably be the actual stone pillow on which the dying head of St. Columba rested in the Abbey of lona. This stone was brought to London by Edward I. in 1297, in token of the complete subjugation of Scotland. Every English monarch since that date has been crown- ed in this chair. On the coronation day the chairs are covered with gold brocade and taken into the choir of the Abbey, on the other side of the partition in front of which they now stand. Between the chairs are the state sword and shield of Edward III. (d. 1377). The reliefs on the screen separating Edward's chapel from the choir, executed in the reign of Edward IV., represent the principal events in the life of the Confessor. 10. Edward I. (d. 1307), a simple slab without an effigy. The inscription is : — 'Eduardus primus, Scottorum malleus, hie est (^here lies Edward I., the hammer of the Scots). The body was recently found to be in remarkably good preservation, with a Cliapel of St. Edward tlie Confessor. 220 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. crown of gilded tin on the head, and a copper gilt sceptre in the hand. *11. Edward the Confessor (d. 1066), a large mediaeval shrine, the faded splendour of which is still traceable, in spite of the spoliations of relic-hunters. The shrine was erected by order of Henry III. in 1269, and cost, according to an authentic record, 2661. 4s. Sd. 12. Thomas of Woodstock, Duke of Oloucester, murdered at Calais in 1397. 13. John ofWaltham(i. 1395), Bishop of Salisbury, recumbent metal effigy. Opposite the Chapel of Edward the Confessor is the entrance to the Chapel or Shrine of St. Erasmus , a picturesque archway, borne by clustered columns, dating from about 1484. Passing through this chapel, we enter the — VII. Chapel of St. John the Baptist. 1. Sir Thomas Vaughan (d. 1483), Lord High Treasurer of Edward IV. Old monument, with a brass, which is much defaced. 2. Colonel Edward Popham (d. 1651), officer in Cromwell's army, and his wife. Upright figures. 3. Thomas Carey, son of the Earl of Monmouth, Gentleman of the Bedchamber to Charles I., who died in 1648, aged 33 years, from grief at the misfortunes of his royal master. 4. Hugh de Bohun and his sister Man/ (d. 1300), grandchildren of Edward I. ; tombstone of grey marble. Chapel of St. John the Baptist. 5. Henry Carey, Baron Hunsdon, cousin of Queen Elizabeth (d. 1596). Rich canopy without an effigy. 6. Countess of Mexborough (d. 1821), small altar-tomb. 7. William of Colchester, Abbot of Westminster (d. 1420); a mediaival stone monument with the recumbent figure of the pre- late, his head supported by angels, and his feet resting on a lamb. Above this monument is a slab with a mourning Genius by 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 221 Nollekens, erected to the memory of Lieut. Col. MacLeod, who fell at the siege of Badajoz, at the age of 26. 8. Thomas Ruthall, Bishop of Durham under Henry VIII., who died in 1524, leaving great wealth. Mediaeval recumbent figure. 9. Thomas Milling, Abbot of Westminster [d. 1492) ; canopy without a figure. 10. G. Fascet, Abbot of Westminster (d. 1500). A slab in front of this tomb, with an inscription by Dean Stan- ley, marks the resting-place of the third Earl of Essex {d. 1646), the only prominent Parliamentarian in the Abbey not disinterred at the Restoration. 11. Mary Kendall (d. 1710) ; kneeling female figure. 12. Thomas Cecil, Earl of Exeter (d. iQ22'), Privy Councillor under James I., and his wife. His wife lies on his right hand ; the space on his left was destined for his second wife, who, however, declined to be buried there , as the place of honour on the right had already been assigned to her predecessor. VIII. The small Chapel of Abbot Islip exhibits the rebus of its founder, 'I slip', in several parts of the carving. The tomb of Abbot Islip (d. 1532), destroyed by the Roundheads, is now represented by a kind of table by the window. The chapel also contains the tomb of Sir Christopher Hatton,(d. 1619), nephew of the famous Lord Chancellor, and his wife. — A room above this chapel (adm. 3d. on Men. and Tues., on other days 6d.) contains the remains of the curious Wax Effigies which were once used at the funerals of per- sons buried in the Abbey. Among them are Queen Elizabeth (re- stored in 1760), Charles II., William III. and his wife Mary, Queen Anne, General Monk, the Duchess of Buckinghamshire, the Duch- ess of Richmond (comp. p. 330) , William Pitt , Earl of Chatham, and Lord Nelson. The last-mentioned two are not funeral-figures. In the ambulatory, near the chapel of Edward the Confessor, is the ancient monument of the Knight Templar, Edmund Crouchback (d. 1296), second son of Henry III., from whom the House of Lan- caster derived its claims to the English throne. On the sarcophagus are remains of the figures of the ten knights who accompanied Edmund to the Holy Land. Adjacent is the monument of another Knight Templar, Aymer de Valence [d. 1323) , Earl of Pembroke and cousin of Edward I., who was assassinated in France. The beautiful effigy of Aveline, Countess of Lancaster (i. 1273), first wife of Edmund Crouchback , on an adjoining monument (seen from the choir), merits notice. To the right is a large marble monument, executed by Wilton, to General Wolfe (buried in St. Alphage's, Greenwich), who fell in 1759 at the capture of Quebec. He is represented sinking into the arms of a grenadier, while his right hand is pressed on his mortal wound ; the soldier is pointing out to the hero the Goddess of Fame hovering overhead. At the side is a mourning Highlander. 222 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. o Tar © E Opposite is the monument of John, Earl Ligonier and Viscount of InniskiUing, Field-Marshal (d. 1770), by Moore. IX. Chapels of St. John the Evangelist, St. Michael, and St. Andrew, three separate chapels, now combined. 1. Sir John Franklin (d. 1847), lost in endeavouring to discover the North West Passage, by Noble. Inscription by Tennyson. 2. Earl Mountrath (d. 1771), and his wife 5 by Wilton. An angel points out to the Count emptess they seat beside her husband. 5. Earl of Kerry (d. iSiS), and his wife ; a marble sarco- phagus with an earl's coro- net, by J5wcfe/iam. Altar- tomb. 4. Telford, the engineer (d. 1834); huge statue by Baily. 6. John Kemble (dA&l3\ the actor, in the character of Cato ; statue by Flaxman. 6. Dr. Baillie (d. 1823) ; bust by Chantrey. 7. (above) Susannah Da- vidson, daughter of a rich merchant of Rotterdam (d. 1767), by Hayward. Altar- tomb with head. 8. Mrs. Siddons, the fa- mous actress (d. 1831) ; statue by Chantrey, after Reynolds's picture of her as the Tragic Muse. 9. Sir James Simpson (d. 1870), the discoverer of the value of chloroform as an an- aesthetic ; bust by Brodie. *10. LordNorris(d.imi\ son of Sir Henry Norris who was executed with the ill-fated Anne Boleyn, with his wife, and six sons. The recumbent figures of Lord and Lady Norris are under a catafalque ; at the sides are the life- size kneeling figures of the sons. On the S. side of the canopy is a relief of warlike scenes from the life of the deceased nobleman. At the top is a small Goddess of Fame. 11. Mrs. Kirton {A. 1603); tablet with inscription, sprinkled with tears represented as flowing from an eye at the top. 12. Sarah, Duchess of Somerset {d. 1692). The Duchess is represented leaning on her arm, looking towards the angels, who are appearing to her in the clouds. At the sides are two poor boys bewailing the death of their benefactress. nn 18. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 223 *13. J. Oascoigne Nightingale (d. 1752), and his wife (d. 1734); group 'by Roubiliac. Death, emerging from a tomb, is launching his dart at the dying lady, while her husband tries to ward off the attack. 14. Lady St. John (d. 1614), with an effigy. 15. Admiral Pocock (d. 1793) ; sitting figure of Victory with medallion, by Bacon. 16. Sir G. Holies, nephew of Sir Francis Vere (d. 1626), by Stone. *17. Sir Francis Vere (d. 1608), officer in the service of Queeu Elizabeth. Four kneeling warriors in armour support a black marble slab, on which lies the armour of the deceased. This chapel also contains tablets or busts in memory of Ad- miral Kempenfelt, who was drowned with 900 sailors by the sink- ing of the 'Royal George' in 1782 (commemorated in Cowper's well-known lines) ; Sir Humphry Davy (d. 1829), the natural philosopher; the learned Dr. Young (d. 1829), and others. Beyond this point we dispense with the services of the guide. A door in the S. Aisle, adjacent to the angle of the Poets' Corner, leads from the abbey to the beautiful Cloistees, dating in their present form from the 13-15th cent., though they include work of as early as the 11th century. The cloisters may also be entered by a passage in the N.E. corner of Dean's Yard (p. 224). They contain the tombs of numerous early ecclesiastics connected with the abbey, and many other graves, including those of Betterton, the actor (d. 1710), Mrs. Bracegirdle, the actress (d. 1748), Aphra Behn , the novelist (d. 1689), Sir Edmond Godfrey (murdered 1678), Dr.Bu- chan, author of 'Domestic Medicine' (d. 1805), etc. From the E. walk of the cloisters we enter the *Chapteb. House, an octagonal room with a central pillar, built in 1250, and from 1282 to 1547 used for the meetings of the House of Commons, which Edward VI., in the latter year, appointed to take place in St. Ste- phen's Chapel, Westminster Palace. The Chapter House was after- wards used as a receptacle for public records, but these were removed in 1865 to the New Record Office (p. 139). In the vestibule, to the left, is a Eoman sarcophagus. The stained- glass window, on the right, commemorates James Russell Lowell, poet and essayist (d. 1891). — On the wall of the Chapter House are remains of a mural painting of Christ surrounded by the Christian virtues. The old tiled pavement is well executed. The Chapter House, which has recently been ably restored, contains a glass-case with fragments of sculpture, coins, keys, etc., found in the neighbourhood; and another case with ancient documents relating to the Abbey, including the Great Charter of Edward the Confessor (1065). The stained-glass windows were erected in memory of Dean Stanley : the E. window by the Queen, that adjoining on the S. by American admirers, and the rest by public subscription. Adjoining the chapter-house is the Chapel of the Pyx (shown by special order only), which was once the Treasury of the Kings of England. The pyx (i.e. the box in which the standards of gold and silver are kept) has been removed to the Mint (p. 128). Opposite the entrance to the Chapter House is a staircase 224 18. WESTMINSTER SCHOOL. ascending to the Muniment Room , or Archives of the Ahbey, and to the Triforium, which affords a fine survey of the interior. The room called the Chapel of St. Blaise, between the S. transept and the Chapter House, has a lofty groined roof. In the Jerusalem Chamber, to the S.W. of the Ahbey (shown on application at the porter's lodge), are frescoes of the Death of Henry IV. and the Coronation of Queen Victoria, some stained glass ascribed to the period of Henry III., and busts of Henry IV. and Henry V. It dates from 1376-86, and was the scene of the death of Henry IV. King Henry. Doth any name particnlar belong Unto the lodging where I first did swoon? Warwick. 'Tis called Jerusalem, my noble Lord. King. Land be to God ! even there my life must end. It hath been prophesied to me many years, I should not die but in Jerusalem \ Which vainly I supposed the Holy Land: — But bear me to that chamber; there Til lie In that Jerusalem shall Harry die. Shakspeare, King Henry IV.. Part II; Act iv. Sc. 4. It probably derived its name from tapestries or pictures of the history of Jerusalem with which it was hung. The Upper House of Convocation of the Province of Canterbury now meets here. The adjoining A&&of's Refectory or College Hall, where the Westminster college boys dine, contains some ancient tapestry and stained glass. The Lower House of Convocation also meets here. For fuller information the curious reader is referred to Dean Stanley's 'Memorials of Westminster Abbey' and Sir G. G. Scott's 'Gleanings from Westminster Abbey'. To theW. of Westminster Abbey rises the Westmmster Colmnn, a red granite monument 60 ft. high, deaigned.'by Sir Gilbert Scott, and erected in 1854-59 to former scholars of Westminster School who fell in the Crimea or the Indian Mutiny. At the base of the column couch four lions. Above are the statues of Edward the Confessor and Henry III. (chief builders of Westminster Abbey), Queen Eliz- abeth (founder of Westminster School), and Queen Victoria. The col- umn is surmounted by a group of St. George and the Dragon. It is on or near the site of Caxton's house (the 'Red Pale'), in the Almonry. An archway, passing under the new house to the S. of the column, leads to the Dean's Yard and Westminster School, or St. Peter's College (PI. R, 25; IV), re-founded by Queen Elizabeth in 1560. The school consists of 40 Foundationers, called Queens Scholars, and about 180 Oppidans or Town Boys. Among the celebrated men educated here were Dryden, Locke, Ben Jonson,Cartwright,Bentham, Barrow, Home Tooke, Cowley, Rowe, Prior, Giles Fletcher, Churchill, Cowper, Southey, Hakluyt the geographer. Sir Chris. Wren, Warren Hastings, Gibbon, George Herbert, Vincent Bourne, Dyer, Toplady, Charles Wesley, George Coleman, Aldrich the musician, Elmsley the scholar. Lord Raglan, J. A. Froude, and Earl Russell. Richard Busby 19. PALL MALL. 225 (p. 210) was head-master here from 1638 to 1695. A comedy of Ter- ence is annually performed at Christmas in the dormitory of the Queen's Scholars by the Westminster boys, with a prologue and epilogue alluding to current events. The old dormitory of the Abbey is now used as the great school-room, while the school-library and class-rooms occupy the site of the mediaeval Misericorde, of which considerable remains are still traceable. The old tables in the dining- hall are said to be made from the timbers of the Armada. The stair- case of Ashburnham House (included in the school-buildings) and the school-gateway are by Inigo Jones. — On the S. side of Dean's Yard the Church How^e, the ecclesiastical memorial of Queen Vic- toria's Jubilee, is now in course of erection. The Royal Architectural Museum, No. 18 Tufton Street (adm. daily 10-4, Sat. 10-6, free), to the S. of Dean's Yard [whence a passage leads), contains Gothic, Renaissance, and Classic carvings (mainly casts). Westminster Hospital (PI. R, 25 ; IV), in the Broad Sanctuary (formerly a sacred place of refuge for criminals and political of- fenders), to the N.W. of the Abbey , was founded in 1719 , Mr. Henry Hoare, banker, of Fleet Street, being a leading promoter. It was the first of the now numerous hospitals of London supported by voluntary contributions. It contains beds for 205 patients. — To the E. of the hospital is Westminster Guildhall or Sessions- House, built in 1805. The Royal Aquarium, in Victoria Street, to the W. of the hos- pital, a handsome red brick edifice, with an arched roof of glass and iron, was opened in 1876. The cost of the building, which is 600 ft. in length, was nearly 200,000^. It includes a few fish-tanks, a summer and winter garden, a theatre (see p. 44), concert-hall, reading-room, picture-gallery, and restaurant; and acrobatic and spectacular performances and music-hall entertainments of all kinds are given here. In Caxton Street, to the N. of Victoria Street, near St. James's Park Station (p. 37), is the Westminster Town Hall, a handsome Jacobean building of red brick. 19. Pall Mall and Piccadilly. Waterloo Place. York Column. Marlborough House. St. Jameses Street. Burlington House. Geological Museum. Leicester Square. Pall MaU (PI. R, 22, 26; IV), the centre of club-life (see p. 74), and a street of modern palaces, derives its name from the old game of pail mail (from the Italian palla, 'a ball', and malleo, a mallet ; French jeu de mail), introduced into England during the reign of Charles I., a precursor of the modern croquet. In the 16th and 17th centuries Pall Mall was a fashionable suburban promenade, but about the end of the 17th cent, it began to assume the form Baedekeb, London. 9th Edit. 15 226 19. WATERLOO PLACE. of a street. Among the many celebrated persons who have resided in this street may be mentioned Marshal Schomberg, the scion of a noble Rhenish family (the Counts of Schonburg), who fell at the Battle of the Boyne (1690). Gainsborough, the painter, died in 1788 in the house which had once been Schomberg's (house next the War Office). Dodsley, the publisher, carried on business in Pall Mall under the sign of 'Tully's Head', bringing out, among other works, Sterne's 'Tristram Shandy', and the 'Annual Register'. The eastern portion of the street, between Cockspur Street and Trafalgar Square, is called Pall Mall East. Here, nearly opposite the corner of the Haymabkbt (where Addison once resided), is a bronze statue of George III., by Wyatt, erected in 1837. On the N. side of Pall Mall East stands the United University Club (entrance from Suffolk Street); farther to the W., at the left corner of Hay- market, is an arcade above which rose Her Majesty's Theatre or Opera-house, demolished in 1893. Farther to the N., on the right side of the Haymarket, is the Hay market Theatre (p. 40). Then in Pall Mall, to the left, at the corner of Waterloo Place, is the United Service Club. To the N. of Waterloo Place (PI. R, 26, /F) is Regent Street (p. 232), leading to Piccadilly. In the centre of the place is the ♦Crimean Monument, erected, from a design by Bell, to the memory of the 2162 officers and soldiers of the Guards , who fell in the Rnssian war. On a granite pedestal is a figure of Victory with laurel wreaths ; below, in front, three guardsmen ; behind, a trophy of guns captured at Sebastopol. On the sides are inscribed the names of Alma, Inkerman, and Sebastopol. — In the S. part of the place or square are five monuments. In the centre is an equestrian statue of Lord Napier of Magdala (1810-1890), by Boehm. To the left is that of Colin Campbell, Lord Clyde, Field-Marshal (d. 1863), the conqueror of Lucknow, by Marochetti, consisting of a bronze statue on a circular granite pedestal, at the foot of which is Britannia, with a twig of laurel, sitting on a lion couchant. Adjacent is a similar monu- ment (by Boehrri) to Lord Lawrence (d. 1879), ruler of the Punjab during the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857 and Viceroy of India from 1864 to 1869, erected in 1882 by his fellow-subjects, British and Indian. — To the right, opposite, is the bronze statue of Sir John Franklin, by Noble , erected by Parliament 'to the great arctic navigator and his brave companions who sacrificed their lives in completing the dis- covery of the North West Passage A. D. 1847-48'. On the front of the pedestal is a relief in bronze, representing the interment of the relics of the unfortunate Franklin expedition ; on the sides are the names of the crews of the ships Erebus and Terror. On the right of this statue is a bronze figure of Field - Marshal Sir John Fox Bur- goyne (d. 1871), on a pedestal of light-coloured granite, by Boehm. The broad flight of steps at the S. end of Waterloo Place, known as Waterloo Steps, descends to St. James's Park. At the top 19. YORK COLUMN. 227 of the steps rises the York Column, a granite column of the Tuscan order, 124 ft. in height, designed by Wyatt, and erected in 1833. It is surmounted by a bronze statue of the Duke of York (second son of George III.), by Westmacott. A winding staircase ascends in the interior to the platform, which affords an admirable *View of the W. portions of the great city (closed at present). — To the W. of the column, in Carlton House Terrace, is Prussia House, the residence of the German ambassador. Carlton House, the site of whicli is occupied by Waterloo Place, was built in 1709 for Henry Boyle, Lord Carlton, and was bought in 1732 by the Prince of Wales. It was afterward? the residence of the Prince- Regent (later George IV.), but was pulled down in 1827. Its columns are now said to adorn the facade of the National Gallery (p. 152). Farther on in Pall Mall (S. side) is a series of palatial club- houses, the oldest of which dates from 1829 (see also pp. 74, 75). At the corner on the left is the Athenaeum Club (with frieze) ; then the Travellers^ Club (with its best facade towards the garden), Reform Club, and Carlton Club (with polished granite pillars ; an imitation of Sansoviuo's Library of St. Mark at Venice). A little farther on is the War Office, in front of which is a bronze statue of Lord Herbert of Lea (d. 1861), once War Secretary, by Foley. Opposite, on the right side of the street, are the Junior Carlton, Club and the Army and Navy Club. St. James's Square, which is reached at this point, contains the London Library (p. 16), the mansions of the Duke of Norfolk, the Earl of Derby, the Bishop of London, and other members of the aristocracy, and is embellished with an Equestrian Statue of William III. , in bronze, by Bacon. Farther on, at the W. end of Pall Mall, are the Oxford and Cam- bridge Club, the Guards^ Club, and the New Oxford and Cambridge Club on the left, and the Marlborough Club on the right. Marl- borougli House (PL R, 22; IV), on the S. side of Pall Mall, was erected hy Sir Christopher Wren, in 1710, for the first Duke of Marl- borough, who lived here in such a magnificent style as entirely to eclipse the court of 'Neighbour George' in St. James's Palace. In 1817 the house was purchased by Government as a residence for Princess Charlotte and her husband Prince Leopold of Saxe - Co- burg. The princess died the same year, but Leopold (d. 1865) continued to reside here till he accepted the throne of Belgium in 1831. The house was afterwards occupied by the Queen Dowager Adelaide, subsequently used as a picture-gallery, and is now the residence of the Prince of Wales. To the W. of Marlborough House, and separated from it by a narrow carriage-way only, is St. James's Palace (p. 266). In St. James's Street, which here leads N. to Piccadilly, are situated the Thatched House Club, the Conservative Club, Arthur's Club, Brooks's Club, New University Club, White's Club (the bow window of which has figured in so many novels), Boodle's Club, the Cocoa Tree Club, the Junior Army and Navy Club, the Devonshire 15* 228 19. PICCADILLY. Club (formerly Orockford's, notorious for its high play under the Regency), and others. In St. James's Place, to the left, is the house (No. 22) occupied hy Samuel Rogers, banker and poet, from 1800 till his death in 1855, and the scene of his famous literary breakfasts. To the right, in King Street, is St. James's Theatre (p. 40). Willis's Restaurant, a little farther along King Street, occu- pies the site of rooms which were down to 1863, under the name of Almack's (from the original proprietor, 1765), famous for the aristocratic and exclusive balls, also called Almack's, which were held in them. King Street also contains Christie and Hanson's Auction Rooms, celebrated for sales of valuable art-collections. The chief sales take place on Saturdays, during the Season. Piccadilly (PL R, 18, 22 ; I, IV), extending from Haymarket to Hyde Park Corner, is nearly 1 M. in length. The eastern portion, with its handsome shops , is one of the chief business streets of the West End. The western half, which is bordered on the S. by the Green Park (p. 270), contains a number of aristocratic and fashionable residences, and the Isthmian (No. 150), the Naval and Military (94), Badminton (100), St. James's (106), Savile (107), New Travellers' (No. 97), and Junior Athenaeum (116) clubs. Turning into it to the right, we first notice, on the right side, a few yards from the corner of St. James's Street, the Egyptian Hall (p. 43). On the opposite side are Old and New Bond Streets (p. 234), leading to Oxford Street. Between Old Bond Street and Sackville Street rises New Burlington House (Pl.R, 22; /), to the W. of which is the Burlington Arcade (p. 24). Old Burlington House, built in 1695-1743 by Richard, Lord Burlington, with the assistance of the architect Kent, was purchased by Government in 1854 for the sum of 140,000L along with its gardens, on which various new edi- fices have been built. The incongruous top story and the present facade of the old building are also new. Nearest Piccadilly is a handsome building in the Italian Renaissance style, completed in 1872 from designs by Banks and Barry, and occupied by several learned societies , to whom the rooms are granted by Government rent-free ; in the E. wing are the Royal, Geological, and Chemical Societies, and in the W. the Antiquarian (with a collection of paint- ings, chiefly old portraits), Astronomical, and Linnaean. The Royal Society, or Academy of Science, the most important of the learned bodies of Great Britain, was founded in 1660, and received its charter of incorporation from Charles II. three years later. As early as 1645, however, its germ existed in the meeting of a few men of learning, far from the turmoil of the Civil War, to discuss subjects relating to the physical and exact sciences. The first number of its famous Philosophical Transactions appeared in 1665. It now comprises about 520 members (including 50 foreign members), each of whom is entitled to append to his name the let- ters F. R. S. (Fellow of the Royal Society). The Library of the society 19. ACADEMY OF ARTS. 229 consists of about 50,000 vols, and 5000 MSS. The rooms contain portraits and busts of celebrated Fellows, including Sir Christopher Wren, Sir Isaac Newton, Robert Boyle, Halley, Sir Humphry Davy, Watt, and Sir William Herschel ; also a telescope which belonged to Newton, and the MS. of his 'Philosophiae Naturalis Principia Mathematica'; and the original model of Davy's safety lamp. The Copley Medal and two Royal Medals are awarded annually by the society for scientific eminence, and the Davy Medal for chemical investi- gation. The Rumford and Darwinian Medals are awarded biennially for investigations in light and heat and in biology respectively. Besides the Transactions, the society also issues its Proceedings annually, and a Ca- talogue of Scientific Papers published in all parts of the world. An arcade leads through the building into the inner court. On the N. side is the exhibition building of the Royal Academy of Arts (founded in 1768), in the Renaissance style, erected by Smirke in 1868-9. At the top of the facade are 9 statues of cele- brated artists: Phidias, Leonardo da Vinci, Flaxman, Raphael, Michael Angelo, Titian, Reynolds, Wren, and Wykeham. The Ex- hibition of the Royal Academy (transferred in 1869 from Trafalgar Square to Piccadilly), which takes place here every year from May to the beginning of August, attracts immense numbers of visitors (admission is., catalogue Is.). It consists of paintings and sculp- tures by modern (mainly) British artists, which must have been finished during the previous year and not exhibited elsewhere before. The 'Private View' of the Exhibition, held by invitation of the Academicians before it is thrown open to the public, is always attended by the cream of society and is one of the events of the London Season. The 'Academy Dinner' held about the same time is also a highly important social function. The Academy organises every winter an exhibition of works of old masters belonging to private individuals. — A staircase in the corner to the right ascends to the Gibson and Diploma Galleries (open daily 11-4, free), which contain some valuable works of early art, the diploma pic- tures presented by Academicians on their election, and the Gibson collection of sculpture. Among the ancient works are : *Mary with Jesus and St. John, a relief by Michael Angelo ; *Madonna, Holy Child, St. Anne, and St. John, a celebrated cartoon \iy Leonardo da Vinci, executed in 1503 for the church DelFAnnunziata at Flor- ence; Copy of Leonardo's Last Supper, by his pupil Marco da Oggionno, from which Morghen's engraving was taken; Woman at a well , ascribed to Giorgione but considered by Frizzoni to be an early work of Seb. del Piomho ; portrait by Qiorgione. The diploma works include good specimens by Reynolds and Wilkie. The L?- 6rary, on the first floor, contains a fine collection of books and prints At the back of the Academy, and facing Burlington Gardens, is London University (PI. R, 22; i), founded in 1836, another Re- naissance structure, erected in 1869 from designs by Pennethorne. London University (not to be confounded with University College 230 19. LONDON UNIVERSITY. in Gower Street) is not a teaching establishment but an examin- ing board, granting degrees in arts, science, medicine, and law, to candidates of either sex wherever educated. The effective facade is decorated with a series of statues. Above the portico are those of' Milton, Newton, Harvey, and Bentham (as represent- atives of the four Faculties), by Durham; over the cornice in the centre, Plato, Archimedes, and Justinian, by Wocdington^ and Galen, Cicero, and Aristotle, by Westmacott; in the W. wing, Locke, Bacon, and Adam Smith, by Theed, and Hume, Hunter, and Sir Humphry Davy, hj Noble; in the E. wing, Galileo, Laplace, and Goethe, by Wijon^ and Cuvier, Leibnitz, and Linnajus, by Macdowell. The interior contains a spacious lecture room, a number of other apartments, in which the graduation examina- tions take place twice annually, and a valuable library. A marble statue of Queen Victoria, by Boehm, was erected here in May, 1889. Close by, at 1 Savile Row, to the N.E., is the Royal Geograph- ical Society. Richard Brinsley Sheridan died at 14 Savile Row in 1816. — In Albemarle Street, to the W., beyond Bond Street (p. 234), are the Royal Institution, founded in 1799 for the pro- motion and teaching of science , with library , reading-room, and weekly lectures from Christmas to Midsummer ; and the Royal Asiatic Society (No. 22), with a library (open 11-4, on Sat. 11-2). On the N. side of Piccadilly, a little beyond Burlington House, is the Albany, let out in chambers, and numbering Canning, Byron, and Macaulay among quondam residents. Byron passed the first part of his married life at 139 Piccadilly, where his daughter Ada was born in Dec, 1815. St. James's Church (PL R, 22; i), adjoining Princes' Hall (p. 45) on the S. side of Piccadilly, built by Wren in 1682-84, and considered (as to the interior) one of his finest works, contains a marble font by Grinling Gibbons, who also executed the handsome foliage over the altar. The stained-glass windows , representing the Passion and other scenes, are modern. The vestry is hung with portraits of former rectors. The Museum of Practical Geology, erected in 1850, is a little farther to the E. It is open daily, Fridays excepted, from 10 to 5 (in winter 10-4), and on Mondays and Saturday till 10 p.m. ; it is closed from 10th August to 10th September. The building contains, besides the geological museum, a lecture-room for 500 hearers, and a library. Entrance by Jermyn Street (Nos. 28-32). The Hall contains busts of celebrated geologists: on the right, Mur- chison, Greenough, De la Beche, Castletown, William Smith, and Jukes (behind); on the left, Buckland, Playfair, Hall, Sedgwick, and Hutton; at the pillars near the entrance. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. At the at)]»cr end is a colossal copy of the Farnese Hercules in Portland limestone. Then English, Irish, and Scotch granite; alabaster; Portland liniestcine from the island of Portland, near Weymouth in Dorsetshire; Derbyshire, Staffordshire, and Irish marbles; auriferous quartz; malachite; a large block of solid copper; and nvmierous varieties of limestone. These are partly in the rough, and partly polished and cut in the shape of large cubes, Sfiuares. tablets, or short columns. Also terracotta statuettes, copies of ancieat statues, vases, and pieces of tesselated pavement. The mosaic pavement in the middle of the hall deserves notice. On the FiKST Flook we first observe a large vase of Siberian avan- 19. LEICESTER SQUARE. 231 turine quartz, a gift from the Emperor of Russia 5 a geological model of London and its vicinity ; a steel salver, inlaid with gold , presented by the Russian Administration of Mines to Sir Roderick Murchison. On the S. side is a collection of porcelain, glass, enamels, and mosaics from the earliest period down to the present day. Then, in table-cases at the sides of the room, iron, steel, and copper, at dilFerent stages of their manufacture. We notice in a case on the right (E.) side a penny rolled out into a strip of copper, 10 yds. long. The cases in the form of a horse-shoe in the middle of the room contain the collection of non-metallic minerals : here are seen all kinds of crystallisations, particularly of precious stones, from quartz nodules with brilliant crystals in the interior up to the most ex- quisitely polished jewels. Models of the largest known diamonds, such as the Koh-i-noor and the Regent Diamond, are also exhibited in these cases. The metalliferous minerals, or ores, occupy the wall-cases. Other cabinets are filled with agates , some of which are artificially coloured with oxide of iron, and the precious metals, including a model of a huge nugget of pure gold. In the other parts of the saloon and in the adjoining apartments are exhibited geological relief-plans and models of mines, metallurgical pro- cesses , and various kinds of machinery. The two upper galleries, run- ning round the hall, chiefly contain fossils, which are of little interest to the ordinary visitor. On tlie N. side of Piccadilly, opposite the Geological Museum, is St. James's Hall fp. 44), which has another entrance in the Regent Quadrant (p. 232). We next reach Piccadilly Circus (p. 232), aiid then, on the right, the Criterion Theatre (p. 41) and the Hay- market (p. 226). At this point Piccadilly proper comes to an end. Coventry Street^ its eastern prolongation, containing the Prince of Wales Theatre (p. 41), leads on to Leicester Square (PL R, 27; i), a quarter largely inhahited by French residents, and adorned in 1874 with flower-heds and a marble statue of Shakspeare, in the centre, bearing the inscription, 'There is no darkness but ignorance' ; at the base are four water-spouting dolphins. The corners of the garden are embellished with marble busts of Reynolds, Hunter, Hogarth, and Newton, all of whom lived in or near the square. After the revocation of the Edict of Nantes (1685) this neighbourhood became a favourite resort of the more aristocratic French Protestant exiles. Leicester House and Savile House, once situated in the square, were occupied by members of the royal family during the first half of last century ; and Peter the Great was entertained at Savile House by the Marquis of Carmarthen (1698). Down to the beginning of the present cen- tury the open space in the centre was a frequent resort of duellists. — The Alhambra Theatre (p. 42), on the E. side of the square, was burned down in 1882, but was rebuilt in 1883-84. The site of Savile House, on the N. side of the square, is occupied by the Em- pire Theatre (p. 42). The line of Coventry Street is continued on the other side of the square by Cranbourne Street, in which is Dalys Theatre (p. 41), leading to Charing Cross Road (p. 234). 232 20. Regent Street. Oxford Street. Holbom. All Saints' Church. University College. St. Pancras' Church. Foundling Hospital. Regent Street (PL R, 23, 26; i), one of the finest streets in London, and containing a large number of the best shops, was laid out by Nash in 1813, for the purpose of connecting Carlton House (p. 227), the residence of the Prince Regent, -with Regent's Park. It is 1 M. in length, and extends from Waterloo Place, Pall Mall (p. 226 J, across Oxford Street, to Portland Place. To the right (E.), at the corner of Charles Street, stands the Junior United Service Club, and on the same side is the Raleigh Club. Jermyn Street (-with the Geological Museum, p. 230) is a little farther on. The street then reaches Regent Circus, Piccadilly (see p. 231 ; known as Piccadilly Circus), whence Piccadilly leads to the W., Coventry Street to the E., and the wide Shaftesbury Avenue (p. 152) to the N.E. The triangle in the centre of the Circus is occupied by a Memorial Fountain to Lord Shaftesbury (d. 1883), by Alfred Gilbert, A. R. A., unveiled in 1893. Beyond the Circus Regent Street describes a curve to the W., forming the so-called Quadrant. On the left is the entrance to St. James's Hall (see p. 231). Vigo Street, at the end of the Quadrant, leads on the left to London University (p. 229). Farther on, to the left, we pass New Burlington Street, Conduit Street, and Maddox Street. Between Hanover Street and Prince's Street we observe the col- onnade of Hanover Chapel. Hanover Square, on the left, is em- bellished with a bronze statue of William Pitt (d. 1806), by Chantrey. On the E. side of the square is the St. George's Club, occupy- ing the site of the long popular Hanover Square Concert Rooms ; on the W. side, the Oriental Club ; and attheN.W, angle, inTenterden Street, the Royal Academy of Music. In George Street, leading out of the square on the S., is St. George's Church, built by James, with a classic portico, and three stained-glass windows, made in Malines about 1520 and brought to England early in the present century. It is the most famous church in London for fashionable weddings. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu died in George Street in 1762. The intersection of Regent Street with Oxford Street (see p. 233), which extends for a longdistance in both directions, is caWed Regent Circus, Oxford Street, or simply Oxford Circus. Margaret Street, the second cross-street beyond Oxford Street, leads to the W. (left) to Cavendish Square, which contains an equestrian statue in marble of the Duke of Cumberland (the victor atCullodenin 1746), by (hew, and a bronze statue of Lord George Bentinck (d. 1848), by Campbell. Harcourt House, on the W. side of the square, is the mansion of the Duke of Portland. Lord Byron was born in 1788 at 24 Holies Street, between Cavendish Square and Oxford Street; the house, however, has since been rebuilt. He was baptised in Old 20. OXFORD STREET. 233 Maryhhone Church, at the top of Marylehone High Street (PI. R, 20), where Charles Wesley was buried in 1788. This was the old church (rebuilt in 1741J which figures in the 'Rake's Marriage' by Hogarth (see p. 179J. — In Margaret Street, to the E. (r.) of Kegent Street, is AU Saints' Church (PL R, 24; i), built by Butterfield in 1850-59 , in the Early English style, lavishly decorated in the in- terior with marble and gilding. The E. wall of the choir is frescoed by Dyce in the style of early Christian art. — At No. 74a. Margaret Street, is the Parkes Museum of Hygiene (adm., see p. 78). The Polytechnic Young Mens Christian Institute, between Ca- vendish Square and Regent Street, has occupied since 1882 the old Polytechnic Institution. The Institute has numerous technical and other classes, reading-rooms, a gymnasium, etc. On the opposite side of the street is a similar institution for young women. Farther on, on the right side of Regent Street, are St. George's Hail (p. 45) and the handsome Queens Hall (p. 44). The latter has accom- modation for 3000 persons; the ceiling is painted by Carpe'gat. At the N. end of Regent Street is Langham Place, with All Souls' Church, erected by Nash. The large building on the other side is the Langham Hotel (p. 6). From this point Portland Place, one of the widest streets in London (120 ft.), leads to Park Crescent, Park Square, and Regent's Park (p. 237). Oxford Street (PL R, 19, 23, 27; /, W), the principal artery of traffic between theN.W. quarter of London and the City, extends from the Marble Arch (at the N.E. corner of Hyde Park, p. 271) to Holborn, a distance of I72 M. The E. portion of this imposing street contains a number of the most important shops in London, and presents a scene of immense traffic and activity ; while the W. end, with the adjoining streets and squares (particularly Grosvenor Square and Berkeley Square on the S. and Portman Square on the N.), comprises many aristocratic residences. Edgware Road, which begins at the W. end of Oxford Street (see PI. R, 15), follows the line of the old Roman road to St. Albans. Portland Street and Or- chard Street lead to the N. (left) to Porlman Square, with the town residence of the Duke of Fife. The 'Blue Stocking Club' met at Mrs. Montagu's (d. 1800) in the N.W. corner of the square. From the N.E. corner Baker Street runs due N. to Baker Street Station (Me- tropolitan), at the corner of Marylebone Road. Lower Berkeley Street rujis to the E. from Portman Square to Manchester Square (PI. R, 19; i), with Hertford House (p. 278). Adjacent, at 13 Mandeville Place , is Trinity College , an incorporated institution for the study of music and arts. — Many of the houses in Gros- venor Square and Berkeley Square (with its plane-trees) still have bits of fine old iron-work in front of their doors, with extinguishers for the links or torches formerly used. Horace Walpole died at 11 Berkeley Square in 1797 ; Clive committed suicide at No. 45 in 1774. No. 38, now the town-house of Lord Rosebery, was the house 234 20. ST. GILES-IN-THE-FIELDS. from which the daughter of Mr. Child, the banker, eloped -with the Earl of Westmorland in 1782, and -was after-wards the residence of their daughter Lady Jersey (d. 1867) and her husband. At the foot of South Audley Street, -which runs to the S. from the S.W. corner of Grosvenor Square, is Chesterfield House (PL E, 18; IV), with a fine marble staircase and the library in which the 'Chester- field Letters' were written. In Brook Street, which runs E. from Grosvenor Square to Hanover Square (p. 232), is a house (No. 25) dis- tinguished by a tablet indicating that Handel used to live here. New Bond Street (PL R, 23 ; i), which diverges to the right (S.) from Oxford Street, farther on, is continued by Old Bond Street to Piccadilly (p. 228). This thoroughfare contains numerous attract- ive and fashionable shops, the Grosvenor Club (No. 135), and sev- eral picture-galleries (comp. p. 45). — Hanover Square, Cavendish Square, Regent Street, and Oxford Cirrus, see p. 232. In Oxford Street, on the left, farther on, is the Princess's Theatre (p. 40), nearly opposite which is the Pantheon, which has successively been a concert-room, a theatre, and a bazaar, and is now the extensive ■wine warehouse of Messrs. Gilbey. Then on the right (No. 58) is the Soho Bazaar (p. 24), with an exit at the other end to Soho Square. On the N. side of this square is the new French Protestant Church, one of the best examples of terracotta architecture in Lon- don j and on the E. side is the new Roman Catholic Church of St. Patrick. Oxford Street proper ends at Tottenham Court Road, which runs to the N. to Euston Road, and Charing Cross Road (p. 231), leading to the S. to Charing Cross. The eastern prolongation of Oxford Street, extending to Holborn, and called New Oxford Street, was laid out in 1849 at a cost of 290,000i. through the 'Rookery of St. Giles', one of the most dis- reputable quarters of London. No. 75, to the right, belonging to Messrs. Pears, has a vestibule in the style of a Pompeian room, adorned with sculptures. On the left, at the corner of Hart Street, is Mudie's Library (p. 16). A little to the S. of New Oxford Street, in High Street, is the church of St. Giles-in-the-Fields, the third church on this site, completed in 1734. Chapman, the translator of Homer (tombstone against the exterior S. wall, erected by Inigo Jones), Shirley, the dramatist, and Andrew Marvell are buried here. To the E. in the churchyard is the square tomb of Pendrell, who helped Charles II. to safety after the battle of Worcester, with a quaint epitaph, describing him as 'Unparalleled Pendrell'. The British Museum (p. 242) lies in Great Russell Street, which runs off Tottenham Court Road, a little to the north. There are several squares at a short distance from the street, among the chief of which are, to the W. of the British Museum, Btsdford Squabb ; to the E. , P.LOOMSBURY Square and Russell Square, the one con- taining a statue of Charles James Fox (d. 1806), and the other one of 20. UNIVERSITY COLLEGE. 235 Francis, Duke of Bedford (d. 1802), both by Westmacott. In Blooms- bury Square are the new buildings of the College of Preceptors^ opened in 1889. Gower Street, which leads to the N. from Bedford Square, con- tains TJniversity College (PI. B,28), founded in 1828, chiefly through the exertions of Lord Brougham, for students of every religious de- nomination. A long flight of steps leads to the dodecastyle Corinthian portico fronting the main edifice, which is 400 ft. in length and surmounted by a handsome dome. It contains numerous lecture- rooms, a laboratory, the Slade School of Fine Art, and a museum with original models and drawings byFlaxman (d. 1826), the cele- brated sculptor (open to visitors in the summer months, Sat. 10-4). The new laboratories, etc., built next the street in 1892, somewhat mask the view of the main edifice. The subjects studied at the college comprise the exact and natural sciences, the classical and modern languages and literatures, history, law, and medicine. The building also contains a well-known school for boys. The whole is maintained without aid from Government. The number of profes- sors is about 40, and that of students about 1600, paying nearly 30,000f. in fees. In Gower Street, opposite University College, and connected with it as a clinical establishment, stands the University College Hospital, where about 40,000 patients are annually treated by the medical professors of the college. Close by, in Gordon Square, is the Catholic Apostolic Church, built in 1850-54, one of the largest ecclesiastical edifices in London. The Interior is a fine example of modern Gothic (Early English"), though unfinished towards the W. The Choir, with its graceful triforium ;md diapered spandrils, is very rich. The most beautiful part of the church is, however, the English Chapel, to the E. of the chancel, with its polychrome painting, stained-glass windows, and open arcade with fine carving (particularly on the three arches to the S. of the altar). In the Morning Chapel, to the S. of the chancel, is the altar formerly used by the Rev. Edward Irving (d. 1834), the founder of the Catholic Apostolic Church. Next this church is University Hall (containing Dr. Williams' Library, p. 16), a kind of Unitarian 'University settlement' (warden. Rev. P. H. Wicksteed). At the N. end of (Jower Street is the Qower Street Station (Me- tropolitan; p. 36). Thence Euston Road runs to the E. to Fusion Square Station, terminus of the London and North Western Rail- way (p. 32), the entrance-hall of which contains a colossal statue of George Stephenson, by Baily. Farther to the E. is the St. Pan- eras Station, terminus of the Midland Railway (p. 32), with the terminus hotel, a very handsome building in an ornate Gothic style, by Sir G. G. Scott. Adjacent is the King's Cross Station, terminus of the Great Northern Railway (p. 32). St.Pancras' Church (PI. B,28), in Euston Square, was built by the Messrs. Inwood in 1819 at a cost of 76,679i. It is an imitation of the Erechtheum at Athens ; while its tower, 168 ft. in height, is a double reproduction of the so-called Tower of the Winds. 236 20. FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. Old St, Fancras' Church (PI. B, 27), with its historical churchyard, ia situated in Old St. Pancras Road, next to the Workhduse. Part of the churchyard, with the adjacent St. Giles huryinlcolm, deposited by his heirs under the care of the British Museum. It includes specimens of Raphael, Michael Angelo, Titian, Leonardo da Vinci, Botticelli, Fra Angelico, Antonello da Messina, Carpaccio, Holbein, Durer, Claude Lorrain, Clouet, Rubens, Van Dyck, Cuyp, Rembrandt, Van Ostade, Berghem, etc. We now return to the Asiatic Saloon and begin our inspection of the extensive and interesting Ethnographical Collection, which is arranged topographically and occupies the whole of the East Gallkry. The Asiatic Section is first entered; then follow the 11. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 265 Oceanic, African, and American Sections, each containing a great variety of objects illustrating the habits, dress, warfare, handicrafts, etc. of the less civilised inhabitants of the different quarters of the globe. On the N. side of the spacious entrance hall, facing the entrance door, is a passage leading to the * Beading Room, construct- ed in 1855-57 at a cost of 150,000i; it is open from 9 a.m. to 7 or 8 p.m. (closed on the first four days of March and October, as well as on Good Friday and Christmas Day). This imposing circular hall , covered by a large dome of glass and iron (140 ft. in diameter, or 1 ft. larger than the dome of St. Peter's at Rome, and 106 ft. high) , has ample accommodation for 360 readers or writers. Around the superintendent, who occupies a raised seat in the centre of the room, are circular cases containing the General Catalogue for the use of the readers (in about 2000 vols.) and various special catalogues and indexes. On the top of these cases lie printed forms (white for books, green for MSS.) to be filled up with the name and 'press-mark' (i. e. reference, indicated in the catalogue by letters and numerals, to its position in the book- cases) of the work required, and the number of the seat chosen by the applicant at one of the tables, which radiate from the centre of the room like the spokes of a wheel. The form when filled up is put into a little basket, placed for this purpose on the counter. One of the attendants will then procure the book required, and send it to the reader's seat. About 20,000 vols, of the books in most frequent request, such as dictionaries, encyclopaedias, hi- stories, periodicals, etc., are kept in the reading-room itself, and may be used without any application to the library officials; while coloured plans, showing the positions of the various categories of these books, are distributed throughout the room. Every reader is provided with a chair, a folding desk, a small hinged shelf for books, pens, and ink, a blotting-pad, and a peg for his hat. The reader will probably find the arrangements of the British Museum Reading Room superior to those of most public libraries, while the obliging civility of the attendants , and the freedom from obtrusive supervision and restrictions are most grateful. The electric light has been introduced into the Reading Room and Galleries. — In the year 1858, the first after the opening of the New Reading Room, the number of readers amounted to 190,400, who consulted in all 877,897 books or an average of 3000 a day. In 1893 there were 194,102 readers, or 645 per day. A Description of the Reading Room may be had from the officials (Id.). Persons desirous of using the Reading Room must send a written application to the Principal Librarian, specifying their names, rank or profession , and address, and enclosing a recommendation from some well-known householder in London. The applicant must not be under 21 years of age. The permission, which is granted 266 23. ST. JAMES'S PALACE. usually for six months at a time, is not transferable and is subject to withdrawal. The Reading Room tickets entitle to the use of the nevf Ne^cspap€r Room (comp. p. 245). It is possible for strangers to get permission to use the Reading Room for a single day by per- sonal application at the office of the Principal Librarian, to the left of the First Graeco-Roman Room. Tickets for visitors to the Reading Room are obtained on the right side of the entrance hall. Visitors are not allowed to walk through the Reading Room, but may view it from the doorway. — The Libraries contain a collection of books and manuscripts, rivalled in extent by the National Library of Paris alone. The number of printed books is about 1,600,000, and it in- creases at the rate of about 30,000 volumes per annum. 23. St. James's Palace and Park. Buckingham Palace. The site of St. James's Palace (PI. R, 22 ; IV), an irregular brick building at the S. end of St. James's Street, was originally occupied by a hospital for lepers, founded previously to 1190. In 1532 the building came into the possession of Henry VIII., who erected in its place a royal palace, said to have been designed by Holbein. Here Queen Mary died in 1558. Charles I. slept here the night before his execution, and walked across St. James's Park to Whitehall next morning (1649). The palace was considerably extended by Charles I., and, after Whitehall was burned down in 1691, it became the chief residence of the English kings from William III. to George IV. In 1809 a serious fire completely destroyed the eastern wing, so that with the exception of the interesting old brick gateway towards St. James's Street, the Chapel Royal, and the old Presence Chamber, there are few remains of the ancient palace of the Tudors. The staterooms are sumptuously fitted up, and contain a number of portraits and other works of art. The initials HA above the chimney-piece in the Presence Chamber are a reminiscence of Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn. It is difficult to obtain permission to inspect the interior. The guard is changed every day at 10.45 a.m., when the fine bands of the Grenadier, Coldstream, or Scots Guards play for 1/4 hr. in Friary Court, the open court facing Marl- borough House. Though St. James's Palace is no longer the residence of the sovereign, the British court is still officially known as the 'Court of St. James's'. On the N. side, entered from Colour Court, is the Chapel Royal, in which the Queen and some of the highest nobility have seats. Divine service is celebrated on Sundays at 10 a. m., 12 noon, and 5. 30 p. m. A limited number of strangers are admitted to the two latter services by tickets obtained from the Lord Chamberlain; for the service at 10 no ticket is required. — The marriage of Queen Victoria with Prince Albert, and those of some of their daughters, were celebrated in the Chapel Royal. 23. ST. JAMES'S PARK. 267 Down to the death of Prince Albert in 1861, the Queen's Levies and Drawing Rooms were always held in St. James's Palace. Since then, how- ever, the drawing-rooms have taken place at Buckingham Palace, but the leve'es are still held here. A levee differs from a drawing room in this respect, that, at the former, gentlemen only are presented to the sovereign, while at the latter it is almost entirely ladies wbo are intro- duced. Eichly dressed ladies; gentlemen, magnificent in gold-laced uni- forms; lackeys in gorgeous liveries, knee-breeches, silk stockings, and powdered hair, and bearing enormous bouquets ; well-fed coachmen with carefully curled wigs and three-cornered hats; splendid carriages and horses, "which dash along through the densely packed masses of specta- tors; and a mounted band of the Life Guards, playing in front of the palace: — such, so far as can be seen by the spectators who crowd the adjoining streets, windows, and balconies, are the chief ingredients in the au^rust ceremony of a 'Queen's Drawing Room'. A notice of the draw- ing-room, with the names of the ladies presented, appears next day in the newspapers. In the life of a young English lady of the higher ranks her present- ation at Court is an epoch of no little importance, for after attending her first drawing-room, she is considered 'out', and enters on the round of balls, concerts, and other gaieties, which often play so large a part in her life. On the "W. side of St. James's Palace lies Clarence House, tlie London residence, since 1874, of the Duke of Edinburgh, who succeeded his uncle as Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha in 1893. — Marlborough House, on the E. side of the palace, see p. 227. St. James's Park (PI. R, 21, 22, 25, 26; IV), which lies to the S. of St. James's Palace, was formerly a marshy meadow, belonging to St. James's Hospital for Lepers. Henry VIII. , on the conversion of the hospital into a palace , caused the marsh to be drained, surrounded with a wall, and transformed into a deer-park and riding-path. Charles II. extended the park by 36 acres , and had it laid out in pleasure-grounds by Le Notre, the celebrated French landscape gardener. Its walks, etc., were all constructed primly and neatly in straight lines, and the strip of water received the appropriate name of 'the canal'. The present form of St. James's Park was imparted to it in 1827-29, during the reign of George IV.', by Nash, the architect [p. 268). Its beautiful clumps of trees, its winding expanse of water enlivened by water- fowl, and the charming views it affords of the stately buildings around it, combine to make it the most attractive of the London parks. In 1857 the bottom of the lake was levelled so as to give it a uniform depth of 3-4 ft. The suspension bridge, across the centre of it, forms the most direct communication for pedestrians between St. James's Street and Westminster Abbey. The broad avenue, planted with rows of handsome trees, on the N. side of the park, is called the Mall, from the game of 'paille maille' once played here (comp. p. 2251. At the E. extremity, near Carlton House Terrace , is the flight of steps mentioned at p. 226, leading to the York Column (p. 227). — Birdcage Walk, on the S. side of the park , is so named from the aviary maintained here as early as the time of the Stuarts. 268 23. BUCKINGHAM PALACE. At the E. end of Birdcage Walk is Storey s Oate, leading to Great George Street and Westminster. In Petty France^ now York Street, to the S, of Birdcage Walk, ■ Milton once had a house. — A battalion of the Royal Foot Guards is quartered in Wellington Barracks, built in 1834, on the S. side of Birdcage Walk; the interior of tbe small chapel is very tasteful (open Tues., Thurs., & Frid., 11-4). The Government Offices [p. 190), the India and Foreign Offices, and beyond them the Horse Guards and Admiralty, lie on the E. side of St. James's Park. In an open space called the Parade, between the park and the Admiralty (new buildings, see p. 190), are placed a Turkish cannon captured by the English at Alexandria, and a large mortar, used by Marshal Soult at the siege of Cadiz in 1812, and abandoned there by the French. The carriage of the mortar is in the form of a dragon, and was made at Woolwich. Buckingham Palace (PL R, 21 ; IV), the Queen's residence, rises at the W. end of St. James's Park. The present palace occupies the site of Buckingham House, erected by John Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham , in 1703 , whicb was purchased by George III. in 1761, and occasionally occupied by him. His successor, George IV., caused it to be remodelled by Nash in 1825, but it remained empty until its occupation in 1837 by Queen Victoria , whose town resi- dence it has since continued to be. The eastern and principal facade towards St. James's Park, 360 ft. in length, was added by Blore in 1846 ; and the large ball-room and other apartments were subsequently constructed. The palace now forms a large quadrangle. The rooms occupied by Her Majesty are on the N. side. A portico, borne by marble columns, leads out of the large court into the rooms of state. We first enter the Sculpture Gallery, which is adorned with busts and statues of members of the royal family, and eminent statesmen. Beyond it , with a kind of semicircular apse towards the garden, is the Library, where deputations, to whom the Queen grants an audience, wait until they are admitted to the royal presence. The ceiling of the magnificent Marble Staircase, to the left of the vestibule, is embellished with frescoes by Townsend, representing Morning, Noon, Evening, and Night. On the first floor are the following rooms : Green Drawing Room, 50ft. long and 33 ft. high, in the middle of the E. side; * Throne Room, 66 ft. in length, sumptuously fitted up with red striped satin and gilding, and having a marble frieze running round the vaulted and richly decorated ceiling , with reliefs representing the Wars of the Roses, executed by Baily from designs by Stothard ; Grand Saloon; State Ball Room, on the S. side of the palace, 110ft. long and 60ft. broad; lastly the Picture Gallery, 180ft. in length, con- taining a choice, though not very extensive collection of paintings. Picture Gallery. The enumeration begins to the right. Carracci, Christ in the Garden ; *182. Frans Hals , Portrait of a man, dated 1636, 180. Dujardin, Three peasants by a wall; 172. 0. Schalcken, Girl with a «andle; ♦174. Rembrandt, Portrait of himself; 170. Teniers, Scholars at 23. BUCKINGHAM PALACE. 269 table; 171. Dujardin, Shepherd boy and cattle; 176. Teniers, Peasants dancing (dated 1645); *168. A. Cuyp , Evening scene, with figures; 165. N. Berchem, Shepherdess wading through a river (1650) ; *164. Rembrandt^ Lady with a fan (dated 1641), the counterpart of a picture in Brussels; *163. Rubens, The Falconer; *159. Isaac van Ostade , Scene in a village street; 157. Jan Steen, Card-players. — '*154. Rembrandt, Adoration of the Magi (dated 1657), a celebrated work. 'The impasto of the light on this picture is remarkably bold , being of a beautiful golden tone, rich and mellow". — Vosjuaer. *155. Van Dyck, Madonna and Child with St. Catharine; *i52. A. van Ostade, Boors talking (1650); *149. Rubens, Landscape; 15(). Rubens, St. George and the Dragon; 147. A. van Ostade, Boors smoking (1665); *148. Metsuj Lady with a champagne glass ; 145. Van Dyck, Charles I. on horse- back; Hi. F. Mieris, "Woman selling grapes (dated ; erroneously attributed to G. Dou); 135. A. Cuyp , Cavalier; 140. Cuyp, Harbour; 136. Pieter de Hooghe, Woman spinning; *134. Claude Lovrain , Europa; 132. Metsu^ Concert; 133. A. van de Velde , Scene on the beach (dated 1666); *129. Hobbema , Mill (dated 1665); 131. Rembrandt, Portrait of an old man. *126. Rubens. Pythagoras (the fruit by Snyders); 118. Wouwerman, Horse- fair; 110. Cuyp, Lady and gentleman riding in a wood; 116. Rubens, Pan and Syrinx; *113. Paul Potter, Cattle (dated 1640); 109. Tenters, Eocky landscape ; 107. Jan Steen , Violinist and card players ; 104. W. van de Velde, Calm (1659); *103. /. Steen, Woman pulling on her stockings (1663); 106. Cuyp, Grey horse; 100. /. van Ostade, Village street (dated 1643). We now pass into the Dining Room, which contains a series of por- traits of English sovereigns, several being by Gainsborough. In an ad- joining room is Sir Frederick Leighton''s Procession in Florence with the Madonna of Cimabue. We then return to the — Picture Gallert, and examine the works on the opposite wall. 98. A. van der Werff, Lady in a swoon; 91. Backhuisen, Rough sea; 92. Tenters, Camp scene (dated -1647) : 88. Berchem, Shepherds at a ford; 89. Cuyp, Stag-hunt; 98. yemers, Peasants dancing ; *86. A. Cuyp, Ducks on a lake; 83. Jan Steen, Interior; *84. A. van de Velde, Cattle pasturing; 82. Cuyp., Cattle and shepherds by a canal ; 72. Ascribed to Rubens, The Pensionary John of Oldenbarneveld visited by his son after his condemnation; *67. A. van de Velde, Landscape with shepherds (1659); *68. Paul Potter, Ca- valier in front of a hut (1651); *64. /. Steen, Family scene; %2. Hobbema, Landscape; *59. J. van Ruysdael, Evening scene with windmill, a master- piece; 57. Wouwerman, Hay harvest; 54. A. van Ostade, Reading the papers (1650) ; 56. J. Steen, Brawl of peasants beside a canal (1672) ; *52. A. van de Velde, Hunting in a forest; 50. Van Dyck (?), Three cavaliers, a sketch for the finished picture in the Berlin Museum; 51. Van Dyck, Virgin and Child; 48. A. van Ostade, Peasants sitting round the fire; *45. N. Maes. Girl in a listening attitude stealing down a winding stair- case (of a radiant golden tone). — *'41. Rembrandt, 'Noli me tangere* (morning light; dated 1638). Rembrandt's friend, Jeremias de Decker, dedicated a sonnet to the praise of this picture. **40. Terburg , Lady writing a letter , with an attendant, the chef- d''oeuvre of this great master of scenes of refined domestic life ; *34 Rubens, Assumption of the Virgin, sketch for the picture at Brussels; 29. A. van Ostade, Family scene (1668); 28. W. van de Velde, On the beach ; '30. Rembrandt , Burgomaster Pancras and his wife , painted in 1645; 26. F. Mieris, Boy blowing soap-bubbles (1663); 22. P. de Hooghe, Card-players (1658), one of the artist's masterpieces; 23. Cuyp, Evening scene; 18. Dou, Mother nursing her child, very minute in the details; 14. P. Potter, Farm scene (dated 1645). — *10. Rembrandt, A ship-builder, occupied in making a drawing of a ship, is interrupted by his wife, who has just come into the room with a letter (dated 1633). 'The momentary nature of the simple action, the truth of the heads, the wonderful clearness of the full bright sunlight, and the conscientious execution, render the picture extremely attractive'. — Waagen. It was purchased by George IV., when Prince of Wales, for 5000i. 270 24. HYDE PARK. 7. Te^t/erfi, Peasants dancing; 2. A. van Ostade, Backgammon players (1670); '^'Titian, A summer storm amid the Venetian Alps, an effective rendering of unusual natural phenomena (painted about 1534). Permission to visit the Picture Gallery may sometimes be ob- tained (during the Queen's absence only) from the Lord Chamber- lain on written application. The Gardens at the back of the Palace contain a summer-house decorated with eight frescoes from Milton's 'Comus', by Landseer, Stanfleld, Maclise, Eastlake, Dyce, Leslie, Uwins, and Ross. The Royal Mews (so called from the 'mews' or coops in which the royal falcons were once kept), or stables and coach-houses (for 40 equipages), entered from Queen's Row, to the S. of the palace, are shown on application to the Master of the Horse. The magni- ficent state carriage, designed by Sir W. Chambers in 1762, and painted by Cipriani (cost 7660i.), is kept here. To theN., between Buckingham Palace and Piccadilly, lies the Green Pabk, which is 60 acres in extent. Between this and the Queen's private gardens is Constitution Hill, leading direct to Hyde Park Corner (p. 271). Three attempts on the life of the Queen have been made in this road. 24. Hyde Park. Kensington Gardens and Palace. Holland House. Park Lane, a street about 1/2 M. in length, connecting the W. end of Piccadilly with Oxford Street, forms the eastern boundary of Hyde Park (PI. R, 14, etc.), which extends thence towards theW. as far as Kensington Gardens, and covers an area of 390 acres. Before the dissolution of the religious houses , the site of the park belonged to the old manor of Hyde, one of the possessions of West- minster Abbey. The ground was laid out as a park and enclosed under Henry VIII. In the reign of Elizabeth stags and deer were still hunted in it, while under Charles II. it was devoted to horse- races. The latter monarch also laid out the 'Ring', a kind of corso, about 350 yds. in length , round an enclosed space , which soon became a most fashionable drive. The fair frequenters of the Ring often appeared in masks , and , under this disguise , used so much freedom, that in 1695 an order was issued denying admission to all whose features were thus concealed. At a later period the park was neglected, and was frequently the scene of duels, one of the most famous being that between Lord Mohun and the Duke of Hamilton in 1712, when both the princi- pals lost their lives. Under William III. and Queen Anne a large portion of the park was taken to enlarge Kensington Gardens; and, finally. Queen Caroline, wife of George II., caused the Ser- pentine, a sheet of artificial water , to be formed. The Serpentine was originally fed by the Westbourne , a small stream coming from Bayswater, to the N.; but it is now supplied from the Thames. 24. HYDE PARK. 271 Hyde Park is one of tlie most frequented and lively scenes in London. It is surrounded by a handsome and lofty iron railing, and provided with nine carriage-entrances, besides a great number of gates for pedestrians, all of which are shut at midnight. On theS. side are Kensington Gate and Queens Gate, both in Kensington Gore, near Kensington Palace ; Prince's Gate and Albert Gate in Knightsbridge ; and Hyde Park Corner at the W. end of Piccadilly. On the E. side are Stanhope Gate and Grosvenor Gate, both in Park Lane. On the N. side are Cumberland Gate, at the W. end of Ox- ford Street, and Victoria Gate, Bayswater. The entrances most used are Hyde Park Corner at the S.E., and Cumberland Gate at the N.E. angle. At the latter rises the Marble Arch, a triumphal arch in the style of the Arch of Constantine , originally erected by George IV. at the entrance of Buckingham Palace at a cost of 80,000L In 1850, on the completion of the E. facade (p. 268), it was removed from the palace , and in the following year was re- erected in its present position. The reliefs on the S. are by Baily, those on the N. by Westmacott] the elegant bronze gates well deserve inspection. The handsome gateway at Hyde Park Corner, with three passages , was built in 1828 from designs by Burton. The reliefs are copies of the Elgin marbles [p. 250). The Green Park Arch, opposite, at the W. end of the Green Park (p. 270j, erected in 1846, was removed in 1883, in the course of improve- ments made at Hyde Park Corner, and has been rebuilt on Consti- tution Hill. The Equestrian Statue of Wellington, by Wyatt, with which it was disfigured, has been re-ereeted at Aldershot Camp, while another equestrian statue of the Duke, in bronze, by Boehm, has been erected in Wellington Place, opposite Apsley House. At the corners of the red granite pedestal are figures of a grenadier, a Highlander, a Welsh fusilier, and an Inniskillen dragoon, all also by Boehm. Apsley House (p. 277), the residence of the Duke of Wellington, lies directly to the E. of Hyde Park Corner. The house next it is that of Baron Rothschild, and that at the W. corner of Park Lane is occupied by the Duke of Cambridge. To the N. of Hyde Park Corner rises another monument to the 'Iron Duke', consisting of the colossal figure known as the Statue of Achilles, which, as the inscription informs us, was erected in 1822, with money subscribed by English ladies , in honour of 'Arthur, Duke of Wellington, and his brave companions in arms'. The statue, by Westmacott, is cast from the metal of 12 French can- non , captured in France and Spain , and at Waterloo , and is a copy of one of the Dioscuri on the Monte Cavallo at Rome. No carts or waggons are allowed to enter Hyde Park, and cabs are admitted only to one roadway across the park near Kensington Gardens. The finest portion of the park, irrespectively of the magnificent groups of trees and expanses of grass for which Eng- lish parks stand pre-eminent , is that near the Serpentine , where, 272 24. HYDE PARK. in spring and summer, during the 'Season', the fashionable world rides, drives, or walks. The favourite hour for carriages is 5-7 p.m., and the fashionahle drive is the broad, southern avenue, which leads from Hyde Park Corner to the left , past the Albert Gate. Equestrians, on the other hand, appear, chiefly from 12 to 2 p.m., but also later in the afternoon, \n Rotten Row , a track exclusively reserved for riders , running parallel to the drive on the N. , and extending along the S. side of the Serpentine from Hyde Park Corner to Kensington Gate, a distance of about 1^2 M. The scene in this part of Hyde Park, on fine afternoons, is most interesting and imposing. In the Drive are seen unbroken files of elegant equipages and high-bred horses in handsome trappings, moving continually to and fro, presided over by sleek coachmen and powdered lacqueys , and occupied by some of the most beauti- ful and exquisitely dressed women in the world. In the Row are numerous lady and gentlemen riders, who parade their spirited and glossy steeds before the admiring crowd sitting or walking at the sides. It has lately become 'the thing' to walk by the Row on Sundays, and on a fine day the 'Church Parade', between morn- ing service and luncheon [i.e. about 1-2 p.m.), is one of the best displays of dress and fashion in London. — The drive on the N. side of the Serpentine is called the Ladies' Mile. The Coaching and Four-in-hand Clubs meet here during the season, as many as thirty or forty drags sometimes assembling. The flower-beds adjoining Park Lane and to the W. of Hyde Park Corner are exceedingly bril- liant, and the show of rhododendrons in June is deservedly famous. At the S. end of Park Lane is a handsome Fountain by Thorneycroft, adorned with figures of Tragedy, Comedy, Poetry, Shakspeare, Chau- cer, and Milton, and surmounted by a statue of Fame. In Hamil- ton Gardens, a little farther to the S. , near Hyde Park Corner (p. 271), is a statue of Lord Byron (d. 1824), erected in 1879. The district between Park Lane and Bond Street (p. 234) is known as Mayfaie, and is one of the most fashionable in London. A refreshing contrast to this fashionable show is afforded by a scene of a very unsophisticated character, which takes place in sum- mer on the Serpentine before 8 a.m. and after 8 p.m. At these times, when a flag is hoisted , a crowd of men and boys , most of them in very homely attire, are to be seen undressing and plunging into the water, where their lusty shouts and hearty laughter testify to their enjoyment. After the lapse of about an hour the flag is lowered, as an indication that the bathing time is over, and in quarter of an hour every trace of the lively scene has disappeared. — Pleasure-boats may be hired on the Serpentine. In winter the Serpentine, when frozen over, is much fre- quented by skaters. To provide against accidents, the Royal Humane Society, mentioned at p. 150, has a 'receiving-house' here, where attendants and life-saving apparatus are kept in readiness for any 24. KENSINGTON PALACE. 273 emergency. The bottom of the Serpentine was cleaned and level- led in 1870; the average depth in the centre is now 7 ft., and towards the edges 3 ft. At the point where the Serpentine enters Kensington Gardens it is crossed by a five-arched bridge, constructed by Sir John Rennie in 1826. On the W. side of the park is a powder magazine. Reviews, both of regular troops and volunteers, sometimes take place in Hyde Park. The Park is also a favourite rendezvous of organised crowds, holding 'demonstrations' in favour or disfavour of some political idea or measure. The Reform Riot of 1866, when quarter of a mile of the park-railings was torn up and 250 policemen were seriously injured, is perhaps the most historic of such gatherings. The wide grassy expanse adjoining the Marble Arch is also the fav- ourite haunt of Sunday lecturers of all kinds. To the W. of Hyde Park, and separated from it by a sunk- fence, lie Kensington Gardens (PI. R, 10, etc.), with their pleasant walks and expanses of turf (carriages not admitted). Many of the majestic old trees have, unfortunately, had to be cut down. Near the Serpentine are the new flower gardens i at the N. extremity is a sitting figure of Dr. Jenner (d. 1823), by Marshall. The Broad Walk on the W. side , 50 ft. in width , leads from Bayswater to Kensington Gore. The Albert Memorial (p. 280) rises on the S. side. The handsome wrought-iron gates opposite the Memorial were those of the S. Transept of the Exhibition Buildings of 1851, which stood a little to the E., on the ground between Prince's Gate and the Serpentine, and was afterwards removed and re-erected as the Crystal Palace at Sydenham (see p. 313). Kensington Palace (PI. R, 6), an old royal residence, built in part by William III. , was the scene of the death of that monarch and his consort, Mary, of Queen Anne and her husband. Prince George of Denmark, and of George II. Here, too. Queen Victoria was born and brought up, and here she received the news of the death of William IV. and her own accession. The interior contains nothing noteworthy. Kensington Palace was till lately the London re- sidence of the Princess Louise and her husband the Marquis of Lome , and is now occupied by the Prince and Princess of Teck (the latter first cousin to the Queen), and by various annuitants and widows belonging to the aristocracy. The palace has a chapel of its own, in which regular Sunday services are held. The space to the W. of Kensington Palace is now occupied by rows of fashionable residences. Thackeray died in 1863 at No. 2 Palace Green^ the second house to the left in Kensington Palace Gardens (PI. R, 6) as we enter from Kensington High Street. Among his previous London re- sidences were 88 St. James's Street, 13 (now 16) Young Street, Kensington (where 'Vanity Fair\ 'Pendennis', and 'Esmond' were written), and 8(i Onslow Square (re-numbered). Holly Lodge, the home of Lord lUacaulay, where he died in 1859, is in a lane leading off Campden Hill Road, a little farther to the W. The next house is Argyll Lodge, the London re- sidence of the Duke of Argyll. Baedeker, London. 9th Edit. 18 274 *24. HOLLAND HOUSE. Farther to the W., on a hill lying between Uxbridge Road, on theN., and Kensington Road on the S., stands Holland House (PI. R, 1), built in the Tudor style "by John Thorpe, for Sir Walter Cope, in 1607. The building soon passed into the hands of Henry Rich, Earl of Holland (in Lincolnshire) , son-in-law of Sir Walter Cope, and afterwards, on the execution of Lord Holland for treason, came into the possession of Fairfax and Lambert, the Parliamentary generals. In 1665, however, it was restored to Lady Holland. From 1716 to 1719 it was occupied by Addison, who had married the widow of Edward , third Earl of Holland and Warwick. The lady was a relative of Sir Hugh Myddelton (see p. 101). In 1762 it was sold by Lord Kensington, cousin of the last representative of the Hollands, who had inherited the estates, to Henry Fox, afterwards Baron Holland, and father of the celebrated Charles James Fox. Holland House now belongs to Lord Ilchester, a de- scendant of a brother of Henry Fox. Since the time of Charles I. , Holland House has frequently been associated with eminent personages. Fairfax, Cromwell, and Ireton held their deliberations in its chambers; William Penn,who was in great favour with Charles II. , was daily assailed here by a host of petitioners; and William III. and his consort Mary lived in the house for a short period. During the first half of the 19th cent. Holland House was the rallying point of Whig political and literary notabilities of all kinds, such as Moore, Rogers, and Macaulay, who enjoyed here the hospitality of the distinguished third Baron Holland. The house contains a good collection of paintings and historical relics. Compare Princess Lichtenstein's 'Holland House'. Along the N. side of Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens runs Ux- bridge Road, leading to Bayswater and Notting Hill. Near the Marble Arch (PI. E, 15) is the Cemetery of St. George's, Hanover Square (open 10-4. on Sun. and holidays 2-4), containing the grave of Laurence Sterne (d. 1768; near the middle of the wall on the W. side). Mrs. Radclifi'e, writer of the 'Mysteries of Udolpho', is said to be buried below the cha- pel. The rows of houses on this road, overlooking the park, contain some of the largest and most fashionable residences in London. 25. Private Mansions around Hyde Park and St. James's. Orosvenor House, Stafford House. Bridgewater House. Lans- downe House. Apsley House. Dorchester House. Hertford House. Lady Brassey Museum. Devonshire House. The English aristocracy, many of the members of which are enormously wealthy, resides in the country during the greater part of the year ; but it is usual for the principal families to have a mansion in London, which they occupy during the season, or at other times when required. Most of these mansions are in the vicinity of Hyde Park, and many of them are worth visiting, not 25. GROSVENOR HOUSE. 275 only on account of the sumptuous manner in which they are fitted up, but also for the sake of the treasures of art which they contain. Permission to visit these private residences, for which appli- cation must he made to the owners, is often difficult to procure, and can in some cases he had only by special introduction. During winter it is customary to pack away the works of art in order to protect them against the prejudicial influence of the atmosphere. Grosvenor House (PI. R, 18; /), Upper Grosvenor Street, is the property of the Duke of Westminster^ and is not open to the public. The pictures are arranged in the private rooms on the ground-floor. Room i. (Dining Room). To the left: 2. West, Death of General Wolfe at Quebec in 1759 i 5. Albert Gupp, Moonlight scene; 8. Sustermans, Por- trait of a lady; 12. Claude Lorrain, Roman landscape; *17, *11. Rem- brandt, Portraits of Nicolas Burghem and Ms wife (dated 1647); 15. Rubens, Landscape; 18, 19. Claude, Landscapes; 21. Adrian van de Velde , Hut with cattle and figures (1658); 23. Rembrandt, Portrait of a man with a hawk; 24. Wouwerman, Horse fair; 25. Hogarth, The distressed poet; 28. Claude, Landscape; 30. Cuyp, Sheep (an early work) ; *26. Claude, Sermon on the Mount; *31. Rembrandt, Portrait of a lady with a fan ; ""31. Berchem, Large landscape with peasants dancing (1656); 88. Sustermans , Portrait. Roosi ir. (Saloon). To the left: *'40. Rembrandt, The Salutation. 'A delicate and elevated expression is here united with beautiful effects of light. This little gem is distinguished for its marvellous blending of warm and cold tints'. — Vosmaer. Above, Cuyp, River scene; *41. G. Dou , Mother nursing her child; **42. Paul Potter. Landscape near Haarlem (1647); 45. N. Pouism, Children playing; **46. Hobbema, Wooded landscape, with figures by Lingelbach; Andrea del Sarto, Portrait; '53. Murillo, John the Baptist; 59. Canaletto, Canal Grande in Venice; 66. Pannigiano , Study for the altarpiece in the National Gallery (No. 33; p. 163); 67. N. Poussin, Holy Family and angels; 69. Oiulio Romano, St. Luke painting the Virgin; *72. Murillo. Infant Christ asleep; **70. Hobbema, Wooded landscape, with figures by Lingel- bach (a counterpart of the picture opposite) ; 75. Oarofolo (?), Holy Family. Room hi. (Small Drawing Room). To the left: 92. Van Dyck, Virgin and Child with St. Catharine ; *91. Reynolds, Portrait of Mrs. Siddons as the Tragic Muse (1784); 89. Andrea del Sarto, Holy Family; 83. Tenters, Chateau of the painter with a portrait of himself; *77. Gainsborough, The 'Blue Boy\ a full-length portrait of Master Buthall. Room iv. (Large Drawing Room). To the left: *95. Rembrandt (or A. Brouwer'i), Landscape with figures; 112. Paul de A'owik(7, Landscape; 110. Giovanni Bellini (or, more probably, an early imitator of Lorenzo Lotto), Ma- donna and saints; IQl. School o/5eZW?M', Circumcision of Christ; 106. Titian (?), The Woman taken in adultery; *105. Rubens, Portrait of himself and his first wife, Elisabeth Brandt, as Pausias and Glycera (the flowers by Jan Brueghel); *101. Velazquez, Don Balthazar Carlos, Prince of Asturias, a sketch ; 99. Poussin, Landscape with figures ; 97. Turner, Conway Castle. Room v. (Rubens Room). To the left: *113. Israelites gathering manna; *114. Abraham and Melchisedek ; '115. The four Evangelists , three of a series of nine pictures painted by Rubens in Spain in the year 1629. VI. Corridor: 116. Murillo, Landscape with Jacob andLaban; Sketches of Egyptian scenes. VII. Ante-Room. To the left: lid. Fr a Bariolommeo (i), Holy Family; 125. Domenichino, Landscape. The Vestibule contains a 'Terracotta Bust bv Alessandro VittoHa. Stafford House, or Sutherland House (PI. R, 22; IV), in St. James's Park, between St. James's Palace and the Green Park, the residence of the Duke of Sutherland^ is perhaps the finest private man- 18* 276 25. BRIDGEWATER HOUSE. sion ill London, and contains a good collection of paintings, wMcli is shown to the puhlic on certain fixed days in spring and summer. Application for admission should be made to the Duke's secretary. We begin to the right, in the large gallery: 73. Zurbaran, Madonna with the Holy Child and John the Baptist (1653); 67. Annibale Cavracci, Flight into Egypt-, *62. 3f urillo . Uetnvn of the Prodigal Son; 61. Ascribed to Raphael, Christ bearing the Cross (a Florentine picture of little value); 59. Farmigiano, Betrothal of St. Catharine; 58, 54. Zurbaran, SS. Cyril and Martin; 57. Dujardin, David with the head of Goliath; '=53. Murillo, Abraham entertaining the three angels; 51. After Durer . Death of the Virgin; 48. Paul Belaroche, Lord Strafford, on his way to the scaffold, receiving the blessing of Archbishop Laud (1838). — 47. Ascribed to Correggio^ Mules and mule-drivers. This work is described as having been painted by Correggio in his youth, and is said to have served as a tavern-sign on the Via Flaminia near E.ome. In reality it is an unimportant work of a much later period. Opposite: 42. Tintoretto^ Venetian senator; 36. Rubens, Coronation of Maria de' Medici, design in grisaille upon wood for the painting in the Louvre; 33. Eonthorst, Christ before Caiaphas; 30. Murillo, Portrait; *27. Van Dyck, Portrait of the Earl of Arundel; 25. L. Carracci, Holy Family; 23. Parmigiano, Vovtreiit; 22. G^wercmo, Pope Gregory and Ignatius Loyola; *19. Moroni, Portrait; 18. Ascribed to Titian, Mars, Venus, and Cupid; 15. Zurbaran, St. Andrew; 5. A. Cano, God the Father. The pictures in the private apartments are not exhibited. Bridgewater House (PI. R, 22 ; IV\ in Cleveland Row, by the Green Park, to the S. of Piccadilly, is the mansion of the Eari o/* EUesmere, and possesses one of the finest picture-galleries in London. The most important works are hung in the private rooms. Admission to the large picture hall is granted for "Wednes- days and Saturdays, on application supported by some person of influence. On the walls of the Staircase: A. Carracci, Copy of Correggio''s 'II Giorno' at Parma; N. Poussin, The Seven Sacraments, a celebrated series of paintings; Veit, Mary at the Sepulchre; Pawwmi, Piazza di S. Pietro at Rome. Gallery. To the right of the entrance: ''Guido Reni, Assumption of the Virgin, a large altarpiece, nobly conceived and carefully finished. To the left: 156. 0. Coques, Portrait; 225. Stoop, Boy with grey horse; 142. Brekelencamp, Saying grace; 31. Ascribed to Sebastian del Piombo, Entombment; 125. Bassano, Last Judgment; *263. P. van Slingeland, The kitchen (1685); 243. JV. Berchem, Eiver scene; 217. Metsu, Fish-woman; -*126. A. van Ostade, Man with wine-glass (1677) ; 137. Ary de Voys, Young man in a library; 209. N. Berchem, Landscape; *17. Titian, Diana and her nymphs interrupted at the bath by the approach of Actseon, painted in 1559; 136. Rembrandt, Portrait; 247. /. van Ruysdael, Bank of a river; '•-'166. A. van Ostade, Skittle-players (1676); 258. W. van de Velde, Rough sea (1656); 212. iV. Berchem, Landscape; *196. Ruysdael, Bridge; *65. Paris Bordone, Portrait of a man (high up); *281. /. Wynants, Landscape, with figures by A. van de Velde (1669). — **19. Titian, "The Venus of the shell.' 'Venus Anadyomene rising — new-born but full-grown — from the sea, and wringing her hair . . . Titian never gave more perfect rounding with so little shadow". — Crowe and Cavalcaselle. This work, painted some time after 1520, has unfortunately suffered from attempts at restoration. 135. Van der Heyde, Draw -bridge ; 222. A. Brouwer, Peasants at the fireside; 171. Van J^wj/smot, Flowers (1723-24) ; 177. A. van Ostade, Portrait; 242. Metsu, Lady caressing her lap-dog. — *18. Titian, Diana and Callisto. 'Titian was too much of a philosopher and naturalist to wander into haze or supernatural halo in a scene altogether of earth'. — C. & C. 284. A. van der Neer, Moonlight scene; 233. Netscher, Lady washing 25. APSLEY HOUSE. 277 her hands; 154. A. von Osiade, Backgammon players; 130. Teniers, The alchemist; *141. W. van de Velde, Naval piece (an early work). On the opposite wall: *153. Jan Steen, The school-room, a large canvas; 190. Wynanis , Landscape; 182. Isaac van Ostade^ Village street; *168. Rembrandt , Mother with sons praying ; *280. Paul Potter , Cows ; 111. Netscher, A fashionable lady; *183. Isaac van Oslade, Village street; *191. J. Steen, The fishmonger; 267. Cuyp, Ruin; *90. Lorenzo Lotto, Ma- donna with saints, an early work (hung high); 109. Salomon Koning, The philosopher's study; 214. W. Mieris, The violinist; 244. G. Don, The violinist (1637); 165. Wynants, Lamdscape; *129. A. Brouwer, Landscape, surrounded with a border of fruit and flowers by D. Seghers; *194. Metsu., The stirrup-cup (an early work); 257. Ruysdael, Landscape; *201. Pynacker, Alpine scene with waterfall; *195. Hondecoeter , The raven detected, illustrating the well-known fable ; 257. ^o&J»e»!.a, Landscape ; *174. Rubens, Free copy with altered arrangement of Raphael's frescoes in the Villa Farnesina at Rome, the landscapes by some other painter. The following masterpieces on the ground-floor are not shown to visi- tors. In Ladt Ellesmere's Sitting Room: '^'■-Raphael, Madonna and Child, the 'Bridgewater Madonna' (copy in the National Gallery); *35. Raphael, Holy Family ('La Vierge au palmier'); '•'■'29. Titian, Holy Family (an early work, ascribed to Palma Vecchio); ''14. Luini, Head of a girl (assigned to Leonardo da Vinci) ; '^"•'77. Palma Vecchio, The three periods of life (after Titian's painting in the Palazzo Doria at Rome). The Drawing Room and Lord Ellesmeee's Sitting Room contain a number of admirable works of the Dutch school, including the fine ''Girl at work, by N. Maes. Lansdowne House [PI. R, 22 ; J), Berkeley Square, the property of the Marquis of Lansdowne, contains a valuable picture-gallery and a collection of Roman sculptures. The house has heen let to Mr. W. W. Astor, and admission may be obtained on application to his secretary. The ancient sculptures form probably the most extensive private collection out of Rome. Most of them were dis- covered at Hadrian's Yilla by Gavin Hamilton. It was while living here , as librarian to Lord Shelburne , that Priestley discovered oxygen. Sculptures. Statue of Mercury, replica of the misnamed Antinous of the Belvedere; Youthful Hercules ; Juno enthroned; Bacchus; Diomede with the palladium ; Jason untying his sandals ; Wounded Amazon ; Marcus Aurelius as Mars; Statue of an emperor; Numerous reliefs, funereal columns, etc. 'Woman asleep, by Canova, his last work; Child soliciting alms, by Ranch. Pictures. In the Ante-Room: Tidemand and Gude, Norwegian land- scape; Gonzales Coques, Portraits of an architect and his wife ; Sir Tho?nas Lawrence, Portrait of Lord Lansdowne. — In Lord Lansdowne^s Sitling- Room: '-Rembrandt, The last-painted portrait of himself (about 1665); '■'Rey- nolds, Lady Ilchester; Master of Treviso (assigned to Giorgione), Concert; Landscapes by Both and "Isaac van Ostade. — In the Library: '-Van Dyck, Henrietta Maria, wife of Charles I. ; RembrandCs School , Two portraits; Luini. St. Barbara. — In the Drawing Room: '■'Rembrandt, Por- trait of a lady (1642) ; "B. van der Heist, Portrait of a lady (1640) ; Guer- cino. The Prodigal Son; *'Murillo, The Conception; '-^Velazquez, Portrait of himself ; Velazquez, Portrait of Olivarez ; "Cuyp , Portrait of a young girl; G. Dolci , Madonna and Child. — In the Front Drawing Room: * Se- bastian del Piombo, Portrait of Federigo da Bozzolo ; "Gainsborough, Por- trait of a lady. Apsley House [PI. R, 18; IV), Hyde Park Corner, the residence of the Duke of Wellington, was built in 1785 for Earl Bathurst, Lord High Chancellor of England, and in 1820 purchased by Govern- ment and presented to the Duke of Wellington, as part of the 278 25. HERTFORD HOUSE. nation's reward for his distinguislied services. A few years later the mansion was enlarged, and the external brick facing replaced by stone. The site is one of the best in London , and the interior is very expensively fitted up. It contains a picture-gallery, nu- merous portraits and statues, and a great many gifts from royal donors. Admission only through personal introduction to the Duke. On the Staircase: Canova''s colossal Statue of Napoleon I. Picture Gallery (on the first floor). To the right: Velazquez, Pea- sants at a bridge; 'Parmigiano , Betrothal of St. Catharine; *' Velazquez, The master of the feast (an early work) ; Marcello Venusti, Annunciation ; "Velazquez^ Quevedo, poet and satirist; Velazquez ^ Portrait of Pope Inno- cent X. (repetition of the painting in the Doria Gallery at Rome) ;''*Cor»'eg'^«o, Christ in Gethsemane (copy in the National Gallery); Watteau ^ Court festival; TFoMwerman, Equestrian scene; CZawde, Palaces at sunset ; Rubens, Holy Family; Spagnoletto, Allegorical ^ici\xre,\ Wouwer man, Starting for the chase; "Velazquez^ Two boys; Murillo, St. Catharine; several large and well-executed copies of Raphael (Bearing of the Cross, etc.). The Sitting Room of the Duchess contains some admirable examples of the art of the Netherlands: 'P. Potter, Deer in a wood; *J. Guyp, Cavalier with grey horse ; A. van Ostade, Peasants gaming ; '*Jan Steen, Family scene, The smokers ; Van dev Heyde, Canal in a town ; N. Maes, The Milk-seller; Wouwerman^ Camp scene; "Lucas van Leyden , Supper; N. Maes ^ The listener. — In the Corridor: y. Victor, Horses feeding; Jan Steen, Peasants at a wedding feast. Dorchester House [PL R, 18; IV), the residence of Capt. Hol- ford, a handsome edifice in Park Lane , contains a good collection of pictures, shown in spring and summer to visitors provided with an introduction. Among the finest works of art are — Rooms T. & II. "^Velazquez, "Portrait of the Duke Olivarez; and op- posite, ^Portrait of Philip IV., both life-size, early works in excellent con- dition; Paul Potter, Goats at pasture (dated 1647); A. van Ostade, Interior (1661); Cornelis de Fo*, Portrait ofalady; *i22/2/sdaeZ, Landscape with view of Haarlem; ~ Lorenzo Lotto, 'PortT⁢ '^Oattd. Ferrari. Marj, Joseph, and a cardinal; Titian (1), Tortra.it; Andrea del Sarto, Holy Family; ~Cuyp, "View of Dordrecht; Tintoretto , Tovira.it; Luini (7) , Flora; Fr a Angelica (^ or- Pesellino), Six saints. Room III. ''Bronzino, Leonora, consort of Cosimo I.; Tintoretto (ascribed to Bassano), Conversation-piece of three figures; 'Rembrandt, Portrait of Martin Looten (dated 1632) ; *Hobbema, Margin of a forest (1663) ; Paolo Veronese (school-piece), Portrait of the Queen of Cyprus ; 'Titian, Holy Family with John the Baptist ; Dosso , Portrait of the Duke of Ferrara ; *Van Dyck , Portrait of the Marchesa Balbi. Hertford House (PL R, 20; /), Manchester Square, the resi- dence of the late Sir Richard Wallace, contains, in a fine gallery built for its reception, the famous ^Hertford Collection, long on view at Bethnal Green Museum (p. 129). Besides a very choice gallery of pictures, the collection includes specimens of gold and silver workmanship , Renaissance and rococo furniture , majolica , por- celain, bronzes, and art - treasures of every description. It is rarely shown to strangers, but admission may sometimes be obtain- ed in spring or summer on Wed., 11-1, by cards obtained on ap- plication to Lady Wallace's private secretary. Almost the whole of the Furniture of the exhibition rooms and the private apartments was brought from Versailles and other royal chateaux of France. The "^'Picture Gallery is justly esteemed the finest private collection 25. DEVONSHIRE HOUSE. 279 in England. It contains 13 genuine specimens oi Rembrandt ; aud Velat' quez and Murillo, Rubens and Van Dyck are also represented by master- pieces. The collection of modern French paintings is more important than that of the Luxembourg at Paris, includin^i; 25 masterpieces by Meissonier, 13 by Delaroche, 31 by Decamps, and 5 by Ary Scheffer. Among the Italian pictures are works by Gima da Coneglicmo, Luini, Guido Reni, Canaletto, and Quardi. The English school is represented by Reynolds (''Portrait of Nelly O'Brien), Lawrence, Stanfield, Landseer, Bonington, and others. The Lady Brassey Museum, at 24 Park Lane, contains a valuable and interesting ethnological collection, antiquities, coral, stuffed birds, jewellery, and curiosities of various kinds , collected by the late Lady Brassey during her voyages in the 'Sunbeam' yacht, to almost every part of the world. Admission is sometimes granted on application to Lord Brassey. The museum-building is fitted up and decorated in the Indian style, with carvings, etc., partly by Hindoo artists and partly executed in London. The lower room was originally the 'Durbar Hair of the Colonial and Indian Exhibition in London. At the entrance and on the staircase are Oriental arms and armour, embroideries, stuffed birds, etc. A collection of boats and models near the top of the staircase includes a child's toy- boat picked up by the 'Sunbeam' in mid-ocean. — The glass-cases in the museum are numbered from left to right. 1. Personal souvenirs of Lady Brassey, nnd reminiscences of voyages. 2-4. Ethnological collection from Borneo, Burmah, and the Straits of Malacca. 5. Oriental Arms. 6. Spec- imens from Australian and other mines. 7. Indian jewellery and works in brass and silver. 8. Pottery and porcelain, including specimens from Fiji, and a sun-baked tea-set from the Shetland Islands. 'J. Ethnological collection (excluding the South Seas). 10. Jewellery and ornaments from the Balkan Peninsula, Cyprus, China, South America, etc. Above, Bur- mese silver bowls ; Indian pottery. 11-18. Interesting ethnological collec- tion, mainly from New Guinea and the South Sea Islands. The cases are lined with native cloth, made from the bark of the paper-mulberry tree. The birds are from New Guinea. 19-22 Corals. 23-26. Antiquities from Cyprus, Egypt, and South America; some of great rarity. 27. Mis- cellaneous collection of artistic objects from various sources. 28-29. Ja- panese objects. 30. Savage ornaments, mainly from the South Seas. 31. Ornaments and jewellery from India. 82. Savage ornaments, from the Sandwich Islands, South Sea Islands, South Africa, etc. Beside the windows are cases of birds of Paradise, flying-fish, etc. In the wall-cases are cloaks made of sea-birds' skins and feathers, from the Aleutian Islands; *Feather-cloak from the South Sea. Doorway from a Buddhist monastery in Tibet ; above, specimens of pottery from the Solomon Islands. Articles used by the savage tribes of North Queensland. — The library contains 80 or 90 volumes of photographs taken in all parts of the world. Some of the other private art-collections of London , to which access can be gained only through personal introduction , must be mentioned more briefly. DevonsMre House (PI. R, 22 ; 77), Piccadilly, between Ber- keley Street and Stratton Street, the London residence of the Duke of Devonshire, contains fine portraits by Jordaens, Reynolds, Tin- toretto, Dobson, Lely, and Kneller. In the library are the 'Kemble Plays', a valuable collection of English dramas, including the first editions of Shakspeare , formed by John Philip Kemble ; and a fine collection of gems. The Earl of Northbrook's Collection, at 4 Hamilton Place, Picca- dilly, formed out of the famed Baring Oallery, is especially notable 280 26. ALBERT HALL. for its adDiirable examples of the Quattrocentists, aud also contains Holbein's fine portrait of Hans Herbster of Strassburg (1516), and important works by Jan van Eyck, Cranach, Mazzolini, Garofalo, Seb. del Piombo, Murillo, Zurbaran, Velazquez, Rembrandt, Bol, Don, Steen, Ruysdael, Cuyp, Rubens, etc. The rich collection of early Italian pictures of Mr. L. Mond, 20 Avenue Road, N.W., may be seen by appointment on -written application. It contains a large altarpiece by Raphael, and works by Fra Bartolommeo , Mantegna, Botticelli, Giovanni and Gentile Bellini, Garofalo, Titian, Ghirlandajo, Cima da Conegliano, Dosso Dossi, Sodoma, and others. 26. Albert Memorial. Albert Hall. Imperial Insti- tute. Natural History Museum. To the S. of Kensington Gardens, between Queen's Gate and Prince's Gate, near the site of the Exhibition of 1851, rises the*Al- bert Memorial (PI. R, 9), a magnificent monument to Albert, the late Prince Consort (d. 1861), erected by the English nation at a cost of 120,000i. , half of which was defrayed by voluntary contri- butions. On a spacious platform, to which granite steps ascend on each side, rises a basement, adorned with reliefs in marble, repre- senting artists of every period (169 figures). On the S. side are Poets and Musicians, and on the E. side Painters, by Armstead ; on the N. side Architects, and on the W. Sculptors, by Philip. Four pro- jecting pedestals at the angles support marble groups, representing Agriculture, Manufacture, Commerce, and Engineering. In the centre of the basement sits the colossal bronze-gilt figure of Prince Albert, wearing the robes of the Garter, 15 ft. high, hy Foley, under a Gothic canopy, borne by four clustered granite columns. The canopy terminates at the top in a Gothic spire, rising in three stages, and surmounted by a cross. The whole monument, designed by Sir O. G. Scott (d. 1878), is 175 ft. in height, and is gorgeously embellished with a profusion of bronze and marble statues, gilding, coloured stones, and mosaics. At the corners of the steps leading up to the basement are pedestals bearing allegorical marble figures of the quarters of the globe : Europe by Alacdowell, Asia by Foley, Africa by Theed, America by Bell. The canopy bears, in blue mosaic letters on a gold ground, the inscription : 'Queen Victoria and Her People to the memory of Albert, Prince Consort, as a tribute of their gratitude for a life devoted to the public good.' On the opposite side of Kensington Gore stands the *Eoyal Albert Hall of Arts and Sciences (PI. R, 9), a vast amphitheatre in the Italian Renaissance style, destined for concerts, scientific and art assemblies, and other similar uses. The building, which was con- structed in 1867-71 from designs by Fowke and Scott, is oval in form (measuring 270 ft. by 240 ft., and 810 ft. in circumference), 26. ALBERT HALL. 281 and can accommodate 8000 people comfortably. The cost of its erection amounted to 200,000f., of whicli 100,000i. was contributed by the public , 50,000^ came from the Exhibition of 1851, and about 40,000f. was defrayed by the sale of the boxes. The ex- terior is tastefully ornamented in coloured brick and terracotta. The terracotta frieze , which runs round the whole building above the gallery, was executed by Minton ($' Co., and depicts the different nations of the globe. The Arena is 100 ft. long by 70 broad, and has space for 1000 persons. The Amphitheatre, which adjoins it, contains 10 rows of seats, and holds 1360 persons. Above it are three rows of boxes, those in the lowest row being constructed for 8 persons each , those in the centre or 'grand tier' for 10, and those in the upper tier for 5 persons. Still higher is the Balcony with 8 rows of seats (1800 persons), and lastly, above the balcony, is the Picture Gallery, adorned with scagliola columns, containing accommodation for an audience of 2000, and affording a good survey of the interior. It communicates by a number of doors with the Outer Gallery, which encircles the whole of the Hall, and commands a flneviewof the Albert Memorial. The ascent to the gallery is facilitated by two 'lifts', one on each side of the building (Id.). The Organ, built by Willis, is one of the largest in the world ; it has 8000 pipes, and its bellows are worked by two steam engines. (The organ is occasionally played about 4 p.m., when notice is given in the daily papers ; small fee.) The Albert Hall stands nearly on the former site of Gore House, which has given its name to Kensington Gore, the high road from Knights- bridge to Kensington. Although le.-s famous than Holland House, it poss- essed fully as much political and social influence at the beginning of the present centurj-. It was for many years the residence of William Wilber- force, around whom gathered the leaders of the anti - slavery and other philanthropic enterprises. It was afterwards the abode of the celebrated Lady Blessington, who held in it a kind of literary court, which was at- tended by the most eminent men of letters, art, and science in England. Louis Napoleon, Brougham, Lyndhurst, Thackeray. Dickens, Moore, Landor, Bulwer, Landseer, and Count D'Orsay were among her frequent visitors. During the exhibition of 1851 Gore House was used as a restaurant, where M. Soyer displayed his culinary skill ; and it was soon afterwards purchased with its grounds by the Commissioners of the Exhibition, for 60,000?. On the S. side of the Albert Hall, in Prince Consort Road, is the Royal College of Music, incorporated by royal charter in 1883 for the advancement of the science and art of music in the British Em- pire. The present building was opened in May, 1894, by the Prince of Wales, the president of the institution. Sir George Grove is the director of the college, which provides a thorough musical edu- cation in the style of the Continental Conservatoires. Upwards of fifty scholarships and exhibitions are open to the competition of students. The teaching staff consists of 11 professors and 30 teach- ers ; and in the first year of its existence the college was'? attended by 150 pupils, including several from the Colonies and the United States. The entrance-hall contains statues of the Prince and Priu- 282 26. IMPERIAL INSTITUTE. cess of Wales and a bust of Mr. Samson Fox, to whose muniflcence the building is due. These are all by the late Prince Victor of Hohenlohe. — On the W. side of the Albert Hall is the Alexandra House, a home for female students , projected by the Princess of "Wales and erected in 1886 at the cost of Sir Francis Cook. A little to the E. of the Albert Hall is Lowther Lodge^ a very satisfactory example of Norman Shaw's modern-antique style. Immediately to the S. of the Albert Hall, in South Kensington, lay the Gardens of the Royal Horticultural Society, which was founded in 1804 for the promotion of scientific gardening. The gardens were, how- ever, chosen as the site of the Imperial Institute (see below) and the Royal Colleg'e of Music (see above), and the Imperial Institute Road has been con- structed through them from Prince's Gate (Exhibition Road) to Queen's Gate. The flower-shows, formerly held here, are now held in the Drill Hall of the London Scottish Rifle Volunteers, James Street, Victoria, or at the So- ciety's Experimental Gardens at Chiswick (p. 338). The latter are open on week-days from 9 to sunset, and in summer on Sun. also from 1 to sunset. The *Imperial Institute of tlie "United Kingdom, the Colonies, and India, the foundation-stone of which was laid by Queen Vic- toria in 1887, as the national memorial of Her Majesty's Jubilee, is a huge Renaissance edifice by Mr. T. E. Colcutt, with a frontage 600 ft. in length, surmounted by a large central tower (280 ft. high), with smaller towers at the corners. In addition to the main building there are a Conference Hall, to the N., 100 ft. long and 60 ft. wide, and Exhibition Galleries covering two acres of ground. The building was opened in 1893 (adm., see p 78). The main objects of the Institute, which was established by funds sub- scribed by the people of the British Empire and is supported by the an- nual payments of the 'Fellows', entrance fees, etc., are: — 1. The formation and exhibition of collections representing the important raw materials and manufactured products of the Empire and of other countries, so main- tained as to illustrate the development of agricultural, commercial, and industrial progress in the Empire, and the comparative advances made in other countries. — 2. The establishment or promotion of commercial mu- seums, sample-rooms, and intelligence offices in London and other parts of the Empire. — 3. The collection and dissemination of information re- lating to trades and industries and to emigration. — 4. Exhibitions of special branches of industry and commerce, and of the work of artizans and of apprentices. — 5. The promotion of technical and commercial education, and of the industrial arts and sciences. — 6. The furtherance of systematic colonization. — 7. The promotion of conferences and lectures in connection with the general work of the Institute, and the facilitating of commercial and friendly intercourse among the inhabitants of the different parts of the British Empire. Visitors enter by the side-entrances, on the E. and "W. of the facade, the main entrance being strangely reserved for 'fellows' of the Institute. Besides permanent collections , which are gradually being formed, there are loan-exhibitions from time to time, an- nounced in the newspapers. Special portions of the building and special privileges are reserved for fellows and their friends; but there are a restaurant, tea-room, etc., open to visitors. A subway, lined with white glazed tiles, runs under the Exhibition Road between the Imperial Institute and the South Kensington railway- station. The buildings which enclose the (former) Horticultural Society's 26. NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM. 283 Gardens on three sides were used, from 1871 to 1874, for the Inter- national Exhibition, which took place annually from April to Sep- tember, and consisted of specimens of the art and industry of different nations. The exhibition buildings, consisting of two-storied galleries running along the W. and E. sides of the Horticultural Gardens, are tastefully built of red brick in the Italian Renaissance style, and adorned with an elegant balustrade and other terracotta decorations. The gallery on the S. side is older. There are en- trances in Princess Oate (^Exhibition Road; see below) and the Im- perial Institute Road (comp. p. 301). The S. and W. Galleries now contain collections connected with S. Kensington Museum [see p. 300), while the E. Gallery is devoted to the India Museum (PL R, 9 ; seep. 301). In Exhibition Road, adjoining the India Museum, is the Guilds Central Technical College , belonging to the City and Ouilds of London Institute (jp. 74). Also connected with the Insti- tute are Finsbury Technical College, Leonard Street, E.G.; the Tech- nical Art School, 122 Kennington Park Road ; and the Leather Trades School , 42 Bethnal Green Road , E. Adjacent is the Royal School of Art Needlework, open to visitors from 10 to 5 or 6 (Sat. 10-2). In Buckingham Palace Road opposite Victoria Station is the National School of Cookery (on view 2-4), an institution for teach- ing the economical preparation of articles of food suitable to smaller households , and for training teachers for branch cookery schools, of which there are now several in London and other towns. On the opposite side of Exhibition Road, at the corner of Crom- well Road, is the South Kensington Museum (p. 285). The large and handsome building to the S. of the International Exhibition Galleries, occupying a great part of the site of the Ex- hibition of 1862, is the new *Natiiral History Museum, containing the natural history collections of the British Museum. It was built in the Romanesque style in 1873-80, from a design by Mr. "Waterhouse, and consists of a central structure , with wings flanked by towers 192 ft. high. The extreme length of the front is 675 ft. The whole of the external facades and the interior wall-surfaces is covered with terracotta bands and dressings , producing a very pleasing effect. The Museum is open daily from 10 to 4, 5, or 6 p.m. according to the season (closed on Sundays, Good Friday, and Christmas Day); on Mon. and Sat., from May Ist to July 16th, it is open till 8 p.m., and from July 18th to Aug. 29th, till 7 p.m. General guide 2d. In 1893 the Natural History Collections were visited by 408,208 persons. We first enter the Great Hall, 170 ft. wide and 72 ft. high, with a skeleton of the cachalot, or sperm-whale (Physeter macroeephalus), 60 ft. long, in the centre. The adjoining glass-cases contain groups illustrating albinism, melanism, the variation of species under the influence of do- mestication (pigeons), the variation of sex and season , the adaptation of colouring to surrounding conditions, protective resemblances and mimicry, and the crossing of what outwardly appear to be quite distinct species. The alcoves round the hall are devoted to the Introductory or Elementary 284 26. NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, Morphological Collection (still incomplete) , 'designed to teach the most important points in the structure of the principal types of animal and plant life, and the terms used in describing them\ The W. side of the gallery round the hall contains a very interesting collection of birds with their nests, egg?, and young, as in nature: while in the E. gallery is the "Qould Collection of Humming Birds (special catalogue 2d.). A room on the ground-floor, behind the great staircase, contains the British Zoological Collection. The 'Geological ard Palseontological Collection occupies the base- ment of the E, wing (to the right). The S.E. Gallery, 28U ft, long and 50 ft. wide, contains fossil remains of animals of the class Mammalia, In the first Pier-case to the right are placed human and animal remains, with implements of flint and bone, chiefly from the caves of France; among them is the skull of the great sabre-toothed tiger. Table-case 1 also contains skulls and other remains of the prehistoric cave-dwellers, as well as bone-needles, harpoons of reindeer-antler, carved bones, etc. In the Pier-case between the first two windows is a fossilised human skeleton, found in the lime- stone rock on the coast of Guadeloupe, West Indies. Table-cases 2 and 3 contain the remains of extinct carnivorous animals, including a fine col- lection of bones of the great cave-bears. The following cases on this side are devoted to the Ungulata or hoofed animals, such as the rhino- ceros, hippopotamus, palfeotherium, horse, pig, and the great family of ruminants. Among the most prominent objects are the skull and lower jaw of the Rhinoceros leptorhinus from the Thames Valley, the sivatherium, a gigantic Indian antelope, and the heads and horns of the extinct wild ox of Great Britain. To this class belong the skeletons of the gigantic Irish elk (Cervtts or Megaceros hibernicus) in the central passage. Most of the cases on the left side of the gallery are occupied by the very complete collection of the molar teeth and other remains of the Proboscidea, or elephants, including the mastodon, mammoth, and twelve other species. In one case is a fragment of the woolly skin of the Siberian mammoth. Closely allied to this species was the Ilford mammoth, found in the valley of the Thames, the skull and tusks of which are exhibited in the middle of the gallery. On a stand close by is the skeleton of Steller's sea-cow (Rhytina), an extinct species, found in the peat deposits of Behring's Island, Kamschatka. On a separate stand near the beginning of the gallery is a perfect skeleton of the mastodon, found in Missouri, to one side of which are the skulls of a dinotherium (lower jaw a plaster reproduction), from Epplesheim in Hesse-Darmstadt, and of a mastodon from Buenos Ayres. — At the end of the gallery we enter the Pavilion, which contains the fossil Birds, Marsupialia, and Edentata. Among the first are remains of the dinornis, or moa, an extinct wingless bird of New Zealand. Table-case 13 contains specimens of the ofdest fossil birds as yet discovered, in which the tail is an elongation of the back-bone. Other cases contain remains of the gigantic extinct kangaroo of Australia (six times larger than its living representative), and of some of the diminutive mammals of the earliest geological period. In the centre is the skeleton of a megatherium from Buenos Ayres, a huge extinct animal, the bony frame-work of which is almost identical with that of the existing sloth. Its colossal strength is indicated by the form of its bones, with their surfaces roughened for the attachment of powerful muscles and ten- dons. Adjacent is a cast of a gigantic extinct armadillo (Glyptodon clavipes) from Buenos Ayres, beside which the skeleton of a living species is placed for comparison. In the corridor leading to the N. from the end of the gallery is placed a plaster cast of a plesiosaurus. The passage leads to — Gallery D, which is devoted to the fossil Reptiles. In Wall-case 1 and Table-cases 1 d- 2 are remains of the pterodactyles or flying lizards, while to the left is a large collection of icthyosauria. At the end of the gallery is a cast of a gigantic Indian tortoise. The various galleries extending to the N. of the reptile gallery, each about 140 ft, long, contain the fossil Fishes and Invertebrate Animals. 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 285 We now return to the entrance - hall and enter the S.W. Gallery, to the left, which contains the Ornithological Collection. The mounting of the specimens in the glass-cases in the middle of the floor is extremely skilful. The Pavilion at the end of the gallery contains the ostriches, emus, and cassowaries. The parallel gallery to the N. contains the Collection of Corals, while the galleries at right angles to this are devoted to the Fishes, Insects, Reptiles, and Shells. A staircase, descending from the westernmost of the passages connecting the Bird and Coral Galleries, leads to the basement of the W. wing, which is occupied by the Cetacean Collection, including ihe skeleton of a common rorqual or fin-whale (Balaenptera musculus), 68 ft. long. We now again return to the Great Hall and ascend the large flight of steps at the end of it to the first floor. On the first landing-place is a statue of Charles Darwin (d. 1882), by Boehm. On the first floor, above the British Zoological Collection, is the Refreshment Room (entr. to right and left at the head of the staircase). To the ri^ht, above the geological department, is the *Mineralogical Collection, which contains a most ex- tensive array of minerals , meteorites . etc. A notice at the door gives instruction as to the best order in which to study the specimens here. To the right and left of the entrance are cases containing different varie- ties of marble and granite. Among the most remarkable objects in the other cases are a unique crystalline mass of Rubellite from Ava (Case 33), a magnificent crystal of light red silver ore from Chili (Case 8), and the unrivalled groups of topazes and agates (Cases 25 & 14). In Case 13 is a piece of jasper, the veining in which bears a singular resemblance to a well-known portrait of Geoffrey Chaucer. In Case 1 g is the -Colenso Diamond' (130 carats), presented by Mr. Ruskin. Among the larger ob- jects in the room at the E. end of the gallery is the Melbourne meteorolite, the heaviest known (3V2 tons). The gallery in the W. wing of the first floor, above the Bird Gallery, contains the Mammalian Collection. The most interesting section is that devoted to the various species of monkeys; close to the entrance are the anthropoid apes. In the middle of the gallery are the seals and walruses-, farther on, the giraftes, elephants, and hippopotami. The ^Botanical Collection is exhibited on the second floor of the E. wing. It includes specimens of plants of all kinds, polished tablets of different kinds of wood, specimens of fruit and seeds, etc. Among the most interesting herbaria are those of Sir Hans Sloane, founder of the British Museum (see p. 242; about 1750), John Ray, Sowerhy (English plants), and Sir Joseph Banks (1820), the last including the collection of Ceylon plants made by Hermann and described by Linn?eus. The botani- cal drawings by F. Bauer, some of which are exhibited to the public in cases, form the finest collection of the kind in the world, remarkable both for scientific accuracy and artistic beauty. The second floor of the W. wing is devoted to the Osteological Collection, with a very extensive collection of skulls. At the top of the staircase (second floor) is a sitting figure of Sir Joseph Banks (d. 1820), the botanist, by Chantrey, brought from the British Museum in 1886. The Natural History Museum faces Cromwell Road, a street of palatial residences , al)Out 1 M. in length, and so called because Henry, son of the Protector, resided in ahouse-which once stood here. 27. South Kensington Museum. India Museum. The **South Kensington Museum (PI. R, 9), in Brompton, to the S. of Hyde Park, at the corner of Exhibition Road and Cromwell Road, 1 M. to the W. of Hyde Park Corner, is most 286 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. easily reached by the Metropolitan Railway. The station (p. 38) is only a few hundred yards to the S.W. either of the prin- cipal entrance in Cromwell Road, oroftheN.W. entrance in Ex- hibition Road. The Museum is open gratis on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays from 10 a. m. to 10 p. m. ; on Wednesdays, Thurs- days, and Fridays, 10 a.m. to 4, 5, or 6 p.m. according to the sea- son, charge Qd. Tickets, including admission to the libraries, etc., 6d. per week. Is. Qd. per month, 3s. per quarter, IDs. per year. In the middle of the building are refreshment rooms (p. 293), to the right and left of which are lavatories for ladies and gentlemen. The Museum, which was opened in 1857, is one of the sub- divisions of the Department of Science and Art of the Committee of Council on Education , which is under the control of the Lord President of the Council for the time being, assisted by a Vice President. The object of the Department is the promotion of science and art by means of the systematic training of competent teachers, the foundation of schools of science and art, public exa- minations and distribution of prizes, the purchase and exhibition of objects of science and art, and the establishment of science and art libraries. It is carried on at an annual expense of about 600,000i. , defrayed by the national exchequer. Several other institutions in England , Scotland , and Ireland are administered by the Department. Among its professors, directors, and examiners are numbered many of the chief English savants ; and the tangible results of its teaching and influence are seen in the progress of taste and knowledge in the fine arts and natural science throughout the kingdom. The Science Division of the Museum is for the pre- sent shown in various buildings to the W. of Exhibition Road (comp. p. 300). The Museum was visited in 1893 by 1,174,211. persons, and the total number of visitors since its opening in 1857 has been 31,805,642. The director of the Science Museum is Major-General E. R. Festing ; the director of the Art Museum is Dr. John H. Middlelon. — Bethnal Green Museum (p. 131) is a branch of the South Kensington Museum, established for the benefit of the great industrial population of the E. End, and main- tained at an annual cost of 8000i. The present buildings of South Kensington Museum contain — 1. The Museum of Ornamental or Applied Art, a collection of modern and mediaeval works of art (44,697 in number) and plaster casts or electrotype reproductions of celebrated ancient and modern works, partly belonging to the Museum and partly on loan, 2. The National Gallery of British Art, or Picture Gallery, on the upper floor. 3. The Art Library, consisting of upwards of 70,000 vols, and a collection of 190, 000 drawings, engravings, and photographs. 4. The Science and Education Library, containing upwards of 66,000 volumes. 17. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 287 5. The National Art Training Schools, in which drawing, painting, and modelling are taught. 6. The Royal College of Science, for the training of teachers and others. The Art Collection, which both in value and extent is one of the finest in the world, is at present exhibited in three large courts roofed with glass, and in the galleries surrounding and diverging from Ground Floor. Arcade. I North Court (Italian). - -j— — > (Italian). : ^ ^ South Corridor of Antique Sculpture. T" South Court. I — Oil i\ them, including a new wing opened in 1884. The collections in the Exhibition Galleries [see pp. 300, 3011 also belong to the South Kensington Museum. A building in Exhibition Road for the Science Schools, chiefly of terracotta, with fine sgraffito decorations, was completed in 1872-3. The Museum is largely indebted for its ra- pid progress to the generosity of private individuals in lending the most costly treasures of art for public exhibition (Loan Col- 288 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. lection) ,• "but Government has also liljerally expended considerable sums in the acquisition of valuable objects of art. All the articles in the museum are provided with a notice of their origin, the names of the artist and [if on loan) owner, and (when acquired by pur- chase) a statement of their cost. The following is necessarily but a limited list of the chief objects of interest permanently belonging to the institution ; and of the numerous plaster casts only such are mentioned as are not usually met with in other collections. The ar- rangement is frequently altered. Even a superficial glance at all the different departments of the museum occupies a whole day ; but it is far more satisfactory, as well as less fatiguing, to pay repeated visits. Guide-books, catalogues, and photographs are sold at stalls close to the entrance of the Architectural Court. In the grounds at the Peincipal Entrance (temporary) in Cromwell Road is a sitting statue of Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy by Marochetti. Inside the building we first find ourselves in the Architectural Court, each half measuring 135 ft. by 60 ft. It is divided into two portions by an arcade (17 ft. broad) running down the centre, and is devoted to full-size plaster and other reproductions, chiefly of large architectural works, along with a few original objects. In entering we pass under a fine *Rood Loft, of alabaster and marble, from the Cathe- dral of Bois-le-Duc, North Brabant (1625). — Immediately in front is a cast of the Monument of Sir Francis Vere in Westminster Abbey (p. 223), behind which is the original plaster model of a statue of Cromwell by John Bell. In the middle of the room is a copy, in two parts, of Trajan's Column, the original of which was erected at Rome in A. D. 114. The reliefs represent Trajan's war with the Dacians, and include 2500 human figures, besides animals, chariots, etc. Between the two parts of this column is a cast of the main W. portal of the Cathedral of St. Sauveur, at Aix in Provence. — To the left of the entrance is the competition sketch model for the Wellington Monument in St. Paul's, in painted plaster of Paris, by Alfred Stevens. Adjacent are original models of various figures and groups forming part of the design. The composition is pleasing, though in a decorative rather than in a monumental style. — To the left : Copy of the Chapter House Door in Rochester Cathedral (see Baedeker s Great Britain). Cast of a portion of Rosslyn Chapel, near Edinburgh, with the column known as the 'Prentice's Pillar' (1446). Cast of the angle of the Cloisters of San Juan de los Reyes at Toledo (15th cent.), an admirable example of Spanish Gothic. Cast of the Tabernacle in the church of St. Leonard at L^au , in Belgium, executed by Cornells de Vriendt in 1552, and one of the finest works of the Flemish Renaissance. Original Alhacena or cupboard from Toledo (14th cent.). — To the right: Carved oak *Front of Sir Paul Pindar's House, formerly in Bishopsgate without (1600). Cast of the Schreyer Monument, outside the St. 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 289 Sebaldus Churcli at Nuremberg, one of Adam Krafft's masterpieces, executed in 1492 (Deposition , Entombment, Resurrection). Cast of Choir-stalls, in carved oak, from the Cathedral of Ulm, by Jorg Syrlin (about 1468]. Reproduction of Donatello's Singing Gallery, formerly in the Duomo of Florence and now in the Museo Nazionale of that city (on the wall, at the end). — By the end-wall : *Cast of the Puerta della Gloria or portal of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostella, Spain, by Maestro Mateo, an imposing work in the Romanesque style (end of the 12th cent.). In the lunette is a colos- sal figure of Christ. In front is a plaster cast of the Bronze Lion of Brunswick, the original of which is said to have been brought from Constantinople in 1166 by Henry the Lion. — To the left, casts of a portion of the Rood Loft in Limoges Cathedral, erected in 1543, and the lower portion of a carved wooden doorway in Beauvais Ca- thedral (16th cent.). — This section of the court also contains casts of works by Jean Goujon (1515-72), Jean Cousin, Germain Pilon, etc. Eastern Section of the Court. On the entrance-wall is the cast of a Chimney-piece from the Palais de Justice at Bruges, by Lancelot Blondeel, a fine specimen of Flemish work of the 16th cen- tury. Above is a cast of Thorvaldsen's frieze representing the Triumphal Entry of Alexander the Great into Babylon. In front, to the left, is a cast of the choir-screen of the church of St. Michael, Hildesheim, a Romanesque work of the end of the 11th century. — Behind the last. Cast of the shrine of St. Sebaldus, Nuremberg, the masterpiece of Peter Vischer (1519). — To the right are casts of wooden Church Doors from Norway (12-13th cent.), a copy of the Celtic Cross at Gosforth, Cumberland (7th cent,), etc. On the wall copies of part of the Coloured Terracotta Frieze in the Ceppo Hos- pital atPistoja, by Giov. della Robbia. — In the middle of the room are casts of two celebrated Pulpits in Pisa, by Nicola (1260) and Giovanni Pisano (1302-1311). Farther on, cast of Shrine of St. Peter Martyr in the church of S. Eustorgio at Milan, by Balduccio of Pisa. — To the right, by the wall, cast of the Marsuppini Monument by Desiderio da Settignano in Sta. Croce, Florence (late 15th cent.); farther on, the original Monument of Marquis Malaspina from Verona (1536). — Almost in front of this monument is a cast of the Pulpit by Benedetto da Maiano in Sta. Croce, Florence (15th cent.) ■ — Opposite is a copy of the Font in the Baptistery at Siena. — At the N. end is a series of casts of the masterpieces of Michael Angelo, including the colossal statue of David, backed by a cast of the great doorway of S. Petronio, Bologna. This section also contains casts of works by Donatello, etc. The door to the left in tbe W. section of the Architectural Court leads to the Collection of Tapestry and Textile Fabrics fp. 294). We now descend the steps at the end of the Central Passage into the — South Court, which is also divided into an eastern and a western Baedbkbk, London. 9th Edit. 19 290 17. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. half by an arcade (above it the Prince Consort Gallery, p. 299). — On the upper part of the walls of these two departments, in sunken panels, are portraits (some in mosaic) of the 35 following famous artists (beginning on the left, at the S. angle of the "W. section): 1. Leonardo da Vinci, painter (d. 1519); 2. Raphael Sanzio , painter (d. 1520)5 3. Torregiano, sculptor (d. 1522); 4. Peter Vischer, artist in metal (d. 1529)-, 5. Bernardino Lnini, painter (d. 1550); 6. Lancelot Blon- deel, Flemish painter, sculptor, and architect (d. 1559); 7. Velazquez de Silva, painter (d. 1660); 8. Maestro Giorgio of Gubbio , potter (d. 1552); 9. Hans Holbein the Younger, painter (d. 1543); 10. Michael Angelo Buona- rotti, painter and sculptor (d. 1564); U. Titian, painter (d. 1576) ; 12. Ber- nard Palissy, potter (d. 1590) ; 13. Inigo Jones, architect (d. 1652); 14. Grin- ling Gibbons, carver in wood (d. 1721); 15. Sir Christopher Wren, architect (d. 1723); 16. William Hogarth, painter (d. 1764); 17. Sir Joshua Reynolds, painter (d. 1792); 19. W. Mulready, painter fd. 1863); 19. Jan van Eyck, painter (d. 1440); 20. Phidias, sculptor (d. 432 B.C.); 21. Apelles, painter (d. 332 B.C.); 22. Nicola Pisano, sculptor (d. 1273); 23. Giovanni Cimabue, painter (d. about 1302); 24. William Torel, goldsmith (d.1300); 25. Jean Goujon, sculptor fd. 1572); 26. William of Wykeham, Bishop of Winchester, architect (d. 1404); 27. Giotto, painter (d. 1337); 28. Lorenzo Ghiberti, sculptor (d. 1455); 29. Fra Giovanni Angelico da Fiesole, painter (d. 1455); 30. Donatello, sculptor (d. 1466): 31. Benozzo Gozzoli, painter (d. 1498); 32. Luca della Robbia, sculptor (d. 1463) ; 33. A. Mantegna, painter (d. 1506). 34. Giorgione, painter (d. 1511); 35. Fra Beato Giacomo d'Ulma, painter on glass (d. 1517). In the northern lunette of the E. section of the court is a fine *rresco by Sir Frederick Leighton, representing the 'Arts of War' or the application of human skill to martial purposes (best seen from the gallery upstairs). The corresponding *Fresco in the S. lunette, by the same artist, illustrates the 'Arts of Peace'. The Court contains an extremely valuable **Collection of small objects of art in metal, ivory, amber, agate, jade, and porcelain, many of which are lent to the Museum by private owners. The W. half of the court is devoted to European objects, while the E. half . contains works of art from China and Japan (but comp. p. 291). The Western Section contains Ivory Carvings, Gold and Silver Work, and Loan Collections. At the S. end is a very representative collection of ivory carvings, affording a complete and highly instruct- ive survey of the development of this mediaeval art. Among them are some works of world-wide celebrity , such as the leaf of the diptych of a *Bacchante of the 4th cent. , probably the finest early ivory carving extant, the leaf of a Byzantine Diptych formerly in the Cathedral of Liege, and the Diptych of R. Gennadius Probus Orestes, Consul of the East, A.D. 530. The *Veroli Casket, of the 11th cent., is in the same case. In other cases are triptychs, figures, etc., of French workmanship of the lith century. Then, tankards, caskets, combs, etc., of a later date. The best works of other col- lections are here represented by admirable casts in fictile ivory (scien- tific catalogue by Westwood). — Other cases contain a valuable col- lection of silversmith's work, ecclesiastical vessels, jewellery, per- sonal ornaments, clocks and watches, carvings in amber, engraved crystal, snuff-boxes, bishops' croziers, etc. Among the single objects 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 291 of greatest importance are the 'Gloucester candlestick' (early 12tli cent.), a *Byzantine crystal ewer of the 9th or 10th cent., a *Cup in repousse work, attributed to Jamnitzer, hut prohahly by an imitator, an Astronomical Globe made at Augsburg for the Emp. Ru- dolf II. in 1584, a *Mirror made for the royal family of Savoy, and a table in damascened work (Milan), etc. To the left, in the arcade, is the inlaid oak panelling of a room from Sizergh Castle, West- morland (late 16th cent.). At the N. end is a collection of arms and armour , and a case of pewter-work , including specimens of Francois Briot (16th cent.). The Central Passage contains an admirable collection of rings, arranged according to countries and destined uses (wedding, mourn- ing, motto, charm, iconographic, etc.); cameos, gems, precious stones ; bracelets, earrings, necklaces of various nations ; and a collection of military and naval medals and other decorations. In one case is a large and varied collection of precious stones bequeathed, by the Rev. Chauncy Hare Townshend. This passage also contains collec- tions of gold and silver plate and jewellery lent by Mr. J. Bunn- Oardner, and of arms and armour lent by Mr. D. M. Oiirrie. In one of these cases are some admirable specimens of English silversmith's work, notably a silver-gilt *Salt-cellar (hall-mark for 1586-7) and a *Cup and cover (hall-mark for 1611). The West Arcade of this court contains fans and numerous examples of musical instruments (comp. p. 293). The East Section of the South Court is at present mainly oc- cupied by the fine collection of Chinese and Japanese porcelain, majolica, and Damascus, Rhodian , and Persian ware, lent by Mr. 0. Salting. [The Japanese bronzes, etc., formerly exhibited here, have lately been removed to the new gallery in the Imperial Institute; seep. 301.] East Arcabe. Oriental textile fabrics, armour, weapons, por- celain, enamel, carved work, furniture, etc. The Museum Collec- tion of Lace is also exhibited here. — At the S. end is a *Parisian Boudoir of the time of Louis XVI., originally belonging to the Mar- quise de Serilly, Maid of Honour to Marie Antoinette (bought for 2100L). The paintings are by Lagrenee and Rousseau de la Rottiere, the chimney-piece by Clodion, the metal work by Gouthiere. In the South Arcade are the Royal Treasures from Abyssinia, Moorish Saddles, Ashantee Jewellery, etc. From the S.W. corner of this court, we may enter tlie Soutli Corri- dor, with the antique casts (see p. 294). The staircase at the E. end of this corridor ascends to the spacious Art Library (p. 286). The staircase walls are hung with pictures, including fine works by 0. F. Watts., R. A. Leaving the S. Court, we next enter the North Court, devoted to Italian art, comprising numerous original sculptures of the Italian Renaissance. Over the S. doorway is placed a marble *Cantoria or singing 19* 292 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. gallery from the church of S. Maria Novella at Florence , by Bac- cio d'Agnolo (about 1500). East Section. The following are the most noteworthy objects in this part of the court. Several works by Michael Angela and his school , including an unfinished statuette of St. Sebastian and a *Cupid (guaranteed by documents) by the master himself, and a statue of Jason, probably executed by a pupil. — *Christ in the sepulchre (bought for lOOOi.), Delivering the Keys to St. Peter, two bas-reliefs by Donatello. — Life-size figure of the Virgin, with worshippers, formerly the tympanum of a doorway at S.Maria della Misericordia, Venice, attributed to JSarfoiom?neoJBwon (15th cent.) — Tabernacle, ascribed to Desiderlo da Settignano, a pupil of Do- natello. — Relief in marble, with portrait of a man, by Matteo Civi- tale. — Altar or shrine of a female saint, from Padua, by a pupil of Donatello. — An ancient Roman Column. — *Large Chimney- piece by Desiderlo da Settignano. — *Fragments from the Tomb of Gaston de Foix, by Agostino Busti (dated 1523). — Chimney-piece from the palace of the Rusconi family at Como. — Tabernacle from the church of S. Giacomo at Fiesole, by Andrea Ferrucci (c. 1490). — *Bronze busts of Popes Alexander VIII. and Inno- cent X. , attributed to Bernini. — In the cases are Italian bronzes of the 14-17th centuries. In the 1st case are the famous *Martelli P)ronze, a mirror -cover "hy Donatello , and four beautiful bronze Candlesticks from Florence (late 15th cent.). On a screen is a bronze bas-relief of the Entombment by Donatello. — Among the admirable busts of the early Renaissance in this part of the court are : *Giov. di San Miniato , by Antonio Rossellino , signed and dated 1456 , with strongly marked characteristics ; Portrait of a man, a vigorous work of the school of Donatello; *Marble bust of a Roman emperor , crowned with laurel, a masterpiece of the Lombard school, of extraordinarily careful execution. — Against the E. wall is a cast of a Singing Gallery by Luca della Robbia (1432-38), originally in the Cathedral of Florence. The E. Arcade contains a collection of European tapestry and textile fabrics, including the superb *Sion Cope, from the monastery of Sion at Isleworth fp. 330), English embroidery of the 13th century. At the N. end of the court are the tribune and the high-altar of the conventual church of S. Chiara at Florence, the latter by Leo- nardo del Tasso (about 1520). — Near this chapel are models of certain of the best examples of architectural ornament in Italy: portion of the Borgia Apartment in the Vatican; portion of the Villa Madama on Monte Mario, Rome ; the great 'bancone' in the Sala del Cambio, Perugia; the Chapel of St. Peter Martyr in S. Eustorgio, Milan; the Chapel of St. Catherine in S. Maurizio, Milan ; and part of a room in the Palazzo Macchiavelli, Florence. West Suction. Collection of glazed terracotta works, some at- tributed to Luca and Andrea della Bobbin of Florence (15- 16th cent), 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 293 Those in white or uncoloured enamel are the oldest, while the coloured pieces date from the first decade of the 16th century. Among the most interesting specimens are twelve *Medallions re- presenting the months, ascribed to Luca della Robbia; large me- dallion executed by Luca della Robbia for the Loggia de' Pazzi, with the arms of King Rene of Anjou in the centre; Adoration of the Magi, with a portrait of Perugino Qooking over the shoulder of the king in the green robe and turban) ; Virgin and Child , by Andrea della Robbia. — Collection of Florentine terracotta busts, one of a *Lady, attributed to Donatello, and one of Savonarola (burned at Florence in 1498). Terracotta bas-reliefs, being studies for three of the reliefs on the pulpit of Benedetto da Maiano at Sta. Croce, Flo- rence (^p. 289). — *Sketch in stucco for one of the panels of the sing- ing boys on the singing gallery executed by Luca della Robbia for Florence Cathedral (^p. 292). — Case containing small models in wax and terracotta by Italian sculptors of the 16th cent., including twelve ascribed to Michael Angelo. — Extensive collection of Italian Majolica , one of the most famous pieces being a plateau with a portrait of Pietro Perugino. — This court also contains examples of Italian art in carved furniture, tarsia work, etc. In fact it now re- presents the Italian section of the Museum. Part of the West Arcade (see also p. 291) is occupied by a valuable collection of Musical Instruments : Harpsichord which be- longed to Handel ; German finger-organ, said to have once belonged to Martin Luther ; Spinet of pear-tree wood, carved and adorned with ebony, ivory, lapis lazuli, and marble, by Annibale de* Rossi of Milan (1577) ; Virginal of richly gilt leather, stated to have been the property of Elizabeth of the Palatinate; Harpsichord inscribed 'Hieronymus Bononiensis faciebat, Romse MDXXI'. — Here also is a collection of Hispano-Moresque ware, including a *Vase from Malaga, and other specimens of great beauty and rarity. The North Arcade contains Italian and other glass vessels, an- tique pottery, terracotta figurines from Tanagra, etc. — *Terra- cotta figures of Italo- Greek workmanship (B. C. 200), found near Canosa in S. Italy. The Fernery, which forms a pleasant object at the windows of this arcade, was fitted up to enable the art-students to draw from plants at all seasons. To the W. of the North Court are three Rooms, formerly occupied by the Art Library. The first two of these are mainly devoted to Italian Woodwork and Furniture, including several fine marriage coffers ('cassoni'). The second room also contains two cases with specimens of Spanish Art. In the third room are some ancient Mural Decorations from Puteoli, and a ceiling painted in tempera from a house at Cremona (15th cent.). From the last-mentioned room a Corridor leads to the Refresh- ment Rooms (p. 286). This passage contains a number of modern 294 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. marble statues and original models. Among these may be mentioned the Cupid and Pan of Holme Cardivell, and the busts by Bastianini, celebrated for his admirable imitations of the style of the 15th cent- ury. The windows contain interesting specimens of stained glass, partly from German churches. At the end of the corridor is a highly decorated staircase leading to the Keramic Gallery (p. 300). On this staircase is a memorial tablet with portrait of Sir Henry Cole, K.C.B. (d. 1882), the first Director of the Museum. We turn to the left into the — West Corridor , which contains part of the Museum Collection of Furniture^ including specimens of French, Spanish, Flemish, German, English, and Dutch workmanship. The walls are covered with wood-carvings, tapestries, and paintings. From the S. end of the W. Corridor we enter the Soutli Corridor, containing the admirable ^Collection of Casts from the Antique, which are displayed to great advantage (special catalogue 6d.). They include reproductions of several works of interest rarely met with in collections of this kind. — At the E. end of this corridor is the staircase to the Art Library (see p. 291). From the S.E. corner of the S. Corridor we enter the hall devoted to * Tapestry and Textile Fabrics (also accessible from the Archi- tectural Court, see p. 289). This hall is divided into three sections. Among its finest contents are three pieces of Flemish tapestry, dat- ing from 1507, with scenes from the Visions of Petrarch's 'Trionfl' (on the W. wall); one of a set of hangings representing the Virtues and Vices, remarkable for the preservation of the colouring; an ex- quisite example of Flemish tapestry in silk and gold and silver thread, representing the Adoration of the Infant Saviour. This room also contains some Italian cassoni (p. 293) aivd other furniture. We now return through the S. Corridor and the W. Corridor to the North -West Corridor, which contains another part of the col- lection of furniture and also some old state-carriages and sedan chairs. At its N.W. corner is a door opening on Exhibition Road, on the opposite side of which are the Exhibition Galleries (p. 300) and the India Museum (p. 301). AVe turn to the right into the — North Corridor, which contains a unique collection of Persian earthenware, tiles, carpets, works in metal, etc., as well as many rare specimens of Saracenic workmanship. Here are a '*Mimbar', or pulpit, from a mosque at Cairo, of carved wood inlaid with ivory and ebony, and still bearing traces of painting (1480), and a large brass lamp for a mosque inlaid with silver (15th cent.). In the angle between the N. and N.W. Corridor is a Room from Damascus (1756), fitted up with its original carpets and furniture, on the walls are Arabic inscriptions. Adjacent are some lattice windows (Meshvebiyehs) from Cairo. At the E. end of the N. corridor is a broad flight of steps lead- ing to the upper floor, which contains the — *National Gallery of British Art, a valuable and representative 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 295 collection of English paintings. It includes the collections given or bequeathed by Messrs. Sheepshanks^ Parsons, Forster, W. Smith, and others, and the pictures lent by the Royal Academy, It also contains the famous Cartoons of Raphael, formerly in Hampton Court. Before entering any of the rooms, we notice, at the top of the stairs by which we have just ascended, some original cartoons of the frescoes in the Houses of Parliament, and an original model of a group of the Graces, by Baily. Kooms I and II contain a collection of paintings and sculpture, lent by the Royal Academy and purchased under the terms of the Chantrty Bequest. Room I. To the left: J. M. StrudwicTc, A Golden Thread ; /. S. Sar- gent, Carnation, Lily, Rose; W. Q. Orchardson, Kapoleon on board the Bellerophon; Vicat Gvle, The Pool of Loudon; /. Brett, Britannia's realm; G. F. WaUs, Psyche; E. Pai-ton, Waning of the year; A. G. Gow, Crom- well at Dunbar; J. W. Waterhouse, The magic circle; W. Hilton, Christ crowned with thorns ; F. Bramlcy, Hopeless Dawn; J//red Pa/-«o«5, Land- scape (on a screen). In the centre of the room: "Athlete struggling with a python, in bronze, by Sir Fred. Leighton, President of the Royal Academy ; Teucer, by Hamo Thorney croft. — We now turn to the left into — Room II. W. F. Yeamcs , Amy Robsart; /. Collier, Last voyage of Henry Hudson; H. Herkomer, Found; '■£. J. Poynter, Visit to iEsculapius ; *//. Herkomer, Charterhouse Chapel; /. Seymour Lucas, After Culloden; Colin Hunter, Their only harvest; W. Hunt, Dog in the manger; F. Dicksee, Harmony; W. L. Wyllie, Toil, glitter, grime, and wealth on a flowing tide; M. Stone, 'II y en a toujours un autre"; Veil. Prinsep, Ayesha. In the centre: Folly, by E. Onslow Ford; The Prodigal Son, in marble, by W. Colder Marshall; Pandora, in marble, by //. Bates. Room III. Collection of paintings lent by Lord Pelham Clinton Hope. To the left: 3. Rembrandt, Christ on the Sea of Galilee; 8. Adriaan van de Velde, The Farm; 10, 13. W. van Mieris, Vegetable seller; 11. Jan Steen, Interior; "^15. Gerard Don. Girl with poultry; 24. A. Cuyp, Herdsman and Cows; 25. J. Steen, Village feast; *34. P. de Hooghe, Interior; 36. M. Hob- bema. Landscape; 38. G. Metsu, Lady reading a letter; *54. J. van der Meer, Interior; *55. G. Terburg, Soldiers drinking; 58. G. Melsu, Gentleman writ- ing; *6i. D. Teniers, Soldiers; 64. Eembrandt, Lady and Gentleman; *67. D. Teniers, Soldiers; 70. G. Terburg, Ofticer with trumpeter; 73. Jan Steen, Christening; *74. G. Terburg, Lady playing a guitar; *76. Van Ostade, Cot- tage yard; 79. A''. Maas , Woman peeling apples. On three screens is a collection of *Wat£r-colouk Drawings , chiefly of the modern English school, given by the daughters of the late Sir W. Gardner Prescott Hewett. Rooms IV., v., & VI. contain the ''Historical Collection of British Wa- ter-colour Drawings, of jireat interest to the student and lover of art. Room IV. contains specimens of the works of P. Sandby, T. Gains- borough, G. Barret, N. Pocock, M. A. Rooker, T. Hearne, T. Girtin, J. R. Cozens, F. Wheatley, T. Rowlandson, W. Payne, T. Malton, A. Pugin, H. Ed- ridge, J. M. W. Turner, J. Cristall, Sir A. W. Callcott, J. Varley, G. F. Robson, J. S. Cotman, G. Barret jun., and others. Room V. includes specimens of D. Cox, Copley Fielding, F. Mackenzie, S. Prout, P. de Wint, J. Crome, J. Linnell, R. R. Reinagle, F. L. T. Francia, J. Glover, W. Harell. Room VI. is hung with works by R. Caldccott, R. Doyle, W. H. Hunt, D. Roberts, W. C. Stanfield, G. Catlermole, J. Holland, J. JVash, F. W. ToiJ- ham, E. Duncan, J. F. Lewis, W. L. Leitch, F. Tayler, L. Haghe, T. M. Richardson, S. Cooper, F. Walker, Rossetti, etc. In the middle of the room is a Mounted Indian, attacked by a serpent, a bronze group by Thos. Brock. — We now return to complete our inspection of — RoomV. FoESTEK Collection. On the walls: Illustrations of Douglas Jerrold's 'Men of Character', by W. M. Thackeray ; paintings and draw- ings by Stanfield, Turner, Cattermole , Stothard , Cipriani, and Gains- 296 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. borough. ~ Frans Hals., Man with a jug; * Gainsborough., His daughters; iJeyreo/ds, Portrait; Boxall, Walter Savage Landor ; FritJi^ Charles Dickens; ''Maclise, Macready as 'Werner"; MacUse, Scene from Jonson's 'Every Man in his Humour'', with portrait of Forster; Waits, Thomas Carlyle; Wynfield, Death of Cromwell. On the screen: Drawings by Maclise, Leech, Thackeray, Landseer, and Count d'Orsay. The glass-cases in the middle of the room contain autographs of Charles II., Cromwell, Ad- dison, Burns, Pope, Johnson, Byron, Keats, etc. ; the MSS. of several of Dickens's novels, including the unfinished 'Edwin Drood', with the last words he wrote ; three sketch-books of Da Vinci, which the master used to carry at his belt; chair, desk, and Malacca cane of Oliver Goldsmith. Small model of a curious Chinese Temple, with a grotto. — The door to the right leads to the Keramic Gallery (p. 300) ; that on to the left to — Room VII. Dtce Collection. Pictures. To the left: Fes<, Saul and the Witch of Endor; Ascribed to Janssens^ Dr. Donne; '-Halls, Edmund Kean as Richard III.; WovUdge, Garrick as Tancred; Unknown Artist, Kemble as Coriolanus; Loutherbourg, Garrick as Don John; Richardson the Elder, Portrait of Pope; Utiknown Artist, Mrs. Siddons. To the right: O. Romney, Serena; Unknown Painter, John Milton; Reynolds, Portrait. The room also contains books (fine editions of the classics), drawings, and miniatures. — The door to the right leads into the reading-room of the Dyce and Forster Library (open daily, 10 to 4, 5, 6, or 10), containing 18,000 vols, and a collection of drawings in portfolios (catalogue on the table). Room VIII. Dtce Collection. Books, Engravings, and Autographs of eminent men. — We now return through Rooms VII, IV, HI, II, to the NoKTH Gallery, or — **Raphael Room, containing the marvellous cartoons executed by the great painter for Pope Leo X., in 1515 and 1516, as copies for tapestry to be executed at Arras in Flanders. Two sets of tapestry were made from the drawings, one of which, in a very dilapidated condition, is pre- served in the Vatican; the other, after passing through the hands of many royal and private personages, is now in the Old Museum at Berlin. The cartoons were originally ten in number, but three, representing the Stoning of St. Stephen, the Conversion of St. Paul, and St. Paul in prison at Philippi, have been lost (represented here by copies). The car- toons rank among Raphael's very finest works, particularly in point of conception and design. The cartoons here are as follows, beginning to the right on entering: — *Christ''s Charge to Peter. Death of Ananias. Peter and John healing the Lame Man. Paul and Barnabas at Lystra. Then, on the opposite wall: — ^Elymas the Sorcerer struck with blindness. Paul preaching at Athens. *The Miraculous Draught of Fishes. The room also contains copies of other works by Raphael and a very fine *Altarpiece Qent by the Duke of Castro) which he painted for the Convent of St. Anthony at Perugia about 1505 (contemporary with the Ansidei Madonna, now in the National Gallery, p. 158). At the E. end of the hall we turn to the right, and reach the three rooms occupied by the Sheepshanks Collection. Room A. To the left: Leslie, *114. Florizel and Perdita; *171. Red- grave, Ophelia weaving garlands; Leslie, *109. Scene from the 'Taming of the Shrew'; 115. Autolycus; 118. 'Le Malade imaginaire'; 111. 'Who can this be?' 127. Portia; 117. 'Les Femmes savantes'; 122. Queen Catharine and Patience; 125. The toilette; 116. 'Le Bourgeois Gentilhomme'; 112. 'Who can this be from?'; 128. Griselda; 172. Redgrave, Bolton Abbey; 59. Cope, II Penseroso ; 132. Leslie, Sancho Panza; 166. Newton, Portia and Bassanio ; 210. Turner, East Cowes Castle, Isle of Wight ; 58. Cope, L'Allegro ; 11. Callcolt, Dort (a sunny meadow); 170. Redgrave, Throwing oS her weeds; 220. Wilkie, The refusal ('Duncan Gray'); 213. t/wtHS, Italian mother teaching her child the tarantella; 208. Turner, Venice; 74. Frith, Honey- 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 297 wood introducing the bailiffs to Miss Richmond as his friends ; 212. Uwins, Suspicion; 2(y7. Turner, Line-fishing ofF Hastings; 10. CallcoU, Slender and Anne Page; 209. Turner, St. Michaers Mount, Cornwall; 223. Webster, Contrary winds ; Collins, 30. Bayham Abbey, 31. Seaford, Coast of Sussex ; 187. G. Smith, Children gathering wild flowers; 71. Eastlake, Italian con- tadina and her children; 2S. Collins, Hall Sands, Devonshire; 113. Leslie, Uncle Toby and Widow Wadman (comp. p. 181); 108. Zee, Distant view of Windsor; 211. Ttirner , Vessel in distress off Yarmouth ; 81. Horsley, The contrast, Youth and Age; *165. P. Nasmyth^ Sir P. Sidney's oak. Penshurst; 501. Wilson, Italian river scene. — The cases in the centre of the room contain a collection of fine enamels and miniatures. Boom B. To the left: 61. Creswick, Scene on the Tummel, Perthshire ; 237. Morland, The reckoning; 895. Zawce, Fruit; 126. ITi/aon, Coast-scene ; 1403. Morland , Interior of a stable ; Gainsborough , 136. Daughters of George III.; 91. Queen Charlotte; Loutherbourg , Landscape; Linnell, 1407. Driving cattle; 134. Milking time. 246. Evening. Mulready , 162. Portrait of a little girl; 152. Portrait of Mr. Sheepshanks; 141. First love; 298 27. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 143. Open your mouth and shut your eyes ! 5 147. The sailing-match ; 144. Brother and sister; 148. The butt — shooting a cherry; 140. Giving a bite; 139. The fight interrupted; 138. Seven ages of man; 142. Interior with portrait of Mr. Sheepshanks; 145. Choosing the wedding gown. 107. Zee, Gathering seaweed; *222. Webster^ Village choir; -103. G. Land- seer, Temptation of Andrew Marvell ; 232. Gveswick^ The Land's End, Corn- wall; 15. Callcott, Sunny morning; 197. Stothard, Shakspeare's principal characters; 219. iVebster, Sickness and health; 62. Creswick, A summer's afternoon; 167. Redgrave, Cinderella; 110. Leslie, Characters from the 'Merry Wives of Windsor'; 233. Danhy, Mountain scene in Wales; 225. Wilkie, The broken jar; ''189. Stanfield , Market-boat on the Scheldt; 221. Webster, Returning from the fair; 188. Stanfield, Near Cologne; 220. Webster, Going to the fair. — The frames in the centre contain several hundred drawings and sketches by Mulready. Boom C. To the left: 4. Barret^ Landscape; 165. Glover, Landscape; 155. MacGallum, Sherwood Forest; '■'201. De Wint, Woody landscape ; 242. Howard, Peasants of Subiaco; 1827. Lee and Cooper, Wooded Glen; 258. Be Wint, Cornfield; 249. Moaamy, Old East India Wharf at London Bridge ; 220. Ward, Bulls fighting; 236. Crome, On the skirts of the forest; *190. 5d\ and Hampton Coi«rt (2s. 6