Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2008 with funding from Microsoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/argentinechilianOOargerich ARGENTINE-CHILIAN BOUNDARY - Argentine-Chilian Boundary REPORT NOTE: This (the First) Part contains— Introduction and Chapters I. to XIII. jumim iJtiE AKlxEJNTUNE CLAIMS FOR THE BOUNDARY IN THE SUMMIT OF THE CORDILLERA DE LOS ANDES, ACCORDING TO THE TREATIES OF 1881 & 1893 Printed in compliance with the request of the Tribunal, dated December 21, 1899 LONDON PRINTED FOR THE GOVERNMENT OF THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS 1900 ATION DED TO BE ) 1 4 1992 Bancroft library , fcrrfversity of. California WITHDRAWN My Lord and Gentlemen, The Argentine Republic has always considered that, after laying before Her Britannic Majesty's Government the official documents relating to the boundary question pending with the Republic of Chile, she had to leave them in complete freedom to form their judgment by their own surveys and solve the differences submitted to them by strictly applying the Treaties. This consideration, and others set forth in due time, induced the Argen- tine Republic to abstain from the detailed examination of the lines projected by the Experts of both countries, when the Foreign Office enquired, for the information of this Tribunal, whether the Argentine Government desired to supplement the documents presented on their behalf. Nevertheless, in order to facilitate the task of the Tribunal, the antecedents which were considered indispensable, were offered to it. Later on, the offer was repeated " to make a statement in support of the claims of the Argentine Government, should the Tribunal of Arbitration desire such a statement to be made." In reply, the Argentine Legation received the communication of May 28, 1899. in which it was informed, "that the Tribunal desired to be put in possession of all the information and all the arguments which either party may think material for its guidance." In pursuance thereof, the Argentine Republic has the honour to present the antecedents with the fulness required. But before commencing the argument, it is necessary to point out that the terms in which the Chilian Representative has stated the controversy are not those which, in reality, apply to it. It might apparently be surmised from those terms, that the question on a 11 which Her Britannic Majesty's Government are requested to give a decision is a doctrinarian question — that is to say, the meaning of the Treaties in force. However, this is not the case. Since 1881, when the boundary was solemnly agreed to, the frontier consecrated by the sovereign wish of the two countries, stands with the fixity and permanence of character which the Treaty of that date decided in its Article 6, which reads thus : " The Governments of the Argentine Republic and of Chile shall exercise full dominion and for perpetuity over the territories which respectively belong to them according to the present arrangement. Any question which might unfortunately arise between the two countries, whether it be on account of this transaction, or owing to any other cause, shall be submitted to the decision of a friendly power, the boundary established in the present arrangement to remain at all events immovable between the two Republics." That boundary, from north to south, to lat. 52° S. is constituted by the Cordillera de los Andes, upon the summit of which nature and history, geo- graphical science and political considerations have designated the divisional line. In all the Treaties, in all the documents, in all the official and private antecedents emanating from both countries, the same frontier is designated, and they establish that up to said frontier the respective sovereignty of the Argentine Republic and Chile reaches. In marking it out, differences might nevertheless arise between the functionaries entrusted with its tracing, and these differences — only these — are submitted to Her Britannic Majesty's Government in the Agreement of 1896: "Should differences arise between the Experts (says Article 2) when fixing, in the Cordillera de los Andes, the boundary marks south of parallel 20° 52' 4,")" S., and in case they could not be amicably settled by joint accord of both Governments, they shall be submitted to the decision of the Government of Her Britannic Majesty, which the contracting parties from this moment appoint in the character of Arbitrator entrusted with the strict appli- cation in such cases of the provisions of the aforesaid Treaty and Protocol, after the ground has been examined by a Commission appointed by the Arbitrator." The differences between the Experts were confined within the Cordillera. Ill Outside thereof, there could be no disputed territories nor debated boundaries. Outside thereof, there only exist territories incorporated under Argentine or Chilian sovereignty, and their sovereignty is not discussed nor submitted to arbitration. If the line of the Chilian Expert is not all found in the Cordillera— and the Argentine Expert affirms it is not all found therein — it cannot be taken into account, neither as a precedent nor as a datum. It has been submitted to Arbitration because the Chilian Government, in accordance with the declaration of their Expert, stated in the Record of September 22, 1898, that it is ail situated in the Cordillera de los Andes, "as ordered by the Treaties, and in the form which they establish " ; but if the error of this assertion is proved, the line must be set aside without further examination. There are no considerations which override the categorical stipulations of the conventions. Her Britannic Majesty's Government, in consequence, have to fulfil a technical mission respecting circumscribed places. They are not going to lay down general rules applicable to the whole extent of the frontier, particularly when in the greater part thereof the divisional line is already demarcated. They are not going to lay down principles, nor consider new doctrines, which might clash with the lines already fixed on the maps and located on the ground itself. They are going solely to give their decision respecting the geographical differences of the Experts, who, according to the said Record of September 22, have been in disagreement with reference to the location of the boundary marks in the Cordillera de los Andes. These remarks are all the more necessary in view that hereinafter will be examined the statement read by the Chilian Representative, in which a line of argument is entered upon whose relevance is rejected by the Argentine Republic. Although the scope of the agreements will be studied for the purpose of proving erroneous interpretations, the Argentine Republic does not admit any discussion with respect thereto. They will be considered in order to put before the Tribunal the veritable antecedents of the dispute in the same way as a historical question would be treated. The work of diplomacy is at an end ; it belongs to the past. The work of Experts is the only one pending. The Treaties have ordered that the boundary shall run along the main chain of the Cordillera de los Andes, i.e. a 2 IV along the most elevated crests that may divide the waters of the said Cordillera. This rule cannot be discussed, as the Treaties cannot be disregarded. To terminate the discussion it is only necessary to determine wjiich of the landmarks proposed by each of the Experts harmonise with these stipulations. Her Britannic Majesty's Government will decide the Experts' differences on these points. I. Questions Submitted to tiie Arbitration of Her Britannic Majesty's Government. The Representatives of the Argentine Republic and Chile met together in Santiago on September 15, 1898, to consider the Records and antecedents relatino- to the general frontier line which had been submitted to them by the respective Experts. With the purpose of facilitating the examination of, and decision on, all the points comprised in the boundary question, the Ministers agreed to deal separately with each one of its parts, to wit: (d) That relating to the boundary in the region between parallels 23° and 26° 52' 45" hit. S. (b) That relating to the boundary from parallel 26° 52' 45" to the proximity of parallel 52° lat. S. (c) That relating to the boundary region close to parallel 52° S., which is referred to in the last clause of Article 2 of the Protocol of 1893.* Each of these three sections of the frontier was separately studied, as different rules for their settlement were required for each one of them. In the first, a line could not be traced which Avould meet with the joint approval of the Governments. In order to fix it, a Conference, consisting of five Argentine and five Chilian delegates, met in Buenos Aires. It was not possible, either, to reach a satisfactory result, and on March 11 of the present year a Record was drawn up setting forth the divergence. Shortly afterwards, an Argentine delegate, a Chilian delegate, and Mr. William H. Buchanan, then the United States Minister in Buenos Aires — constituting a demarcating * See the RYcord of September 15, 1898. commission — settled the differences and decided the line, awarding to the Argentine Republic no less than eleven-twelfths of the disputed territory in that region. The second section, from parallel 26° 52' 45" to the proximity of lat. 52° S., was studied and considered in the way set forth in the Record of September 22, 1898. On the lines of the two Experts being confronted, it was found that they both agreed in many points, and that they contained substantial differences in many others. They coincided " from Mount Tres Cruces (southern summit) to Mount Ferihueico, in the points and stretches marked with Nos. 10 to 256 of the Chilian Expert's list, and 3 to 266 of the Argentine Expert's list ; and also in the points and stretches marked with Nos. 263 to 270 of the Chilian Expert's list, and Nos. 275 to 281 of that of the Argentine Expert, and finally in those marked with Nos. 331 and 332 by the former and 304 and 305 by the latter." As each Government upheld and sustained the general line presented by their respective Experts, conformity of opinion settled the frontier in the stretches just mentioned. But it was also observed "that the line of the Chilian Expert diverges from that of the Argentine Expert in the points and stretches marked by the former with Nos. 1 to 9, and 1 and 2 by the latter; in the points and stretches marked by the former with Nos. 257 to 262, and 267 to 274 by the latter; in the points and stretches marked with Nos. 271 to 330 by the former, and 282 to 303 by the latter ; in the points and stretches marked with Nos. 333 to 348 by the former, and with No. 306 and the rest of the points without number that follow in the list of the latter." The Representatives of the two Republics found no means whatever of agreeing in their views by direct procedure, and in consequence decided to draAV up a record in which the divergences would be set forth, and to deliver to Her Britannic Majesty's Government a copy of the Records of the Experts and of the Treaties and International Agreements in force, in order that, subject to Clause 2 of the Agreement dated April 17, 1896, said Government may decide the divergences which have been recorded above. The Ministers stipulated, besides, " that the above mentioned documents shall be delivered to the Government of Her Britannic Majesty by the diplomatic Representatives of the Argentine Republic, and of the Republic of Chile accredited to said Government, VI who shall manifest to same that, the case foreseen in the above quoted Base 2 of the Agreement of April 17, 1896, having arisen, they may proceed to appoint the Commission that is to verify the previous study of the ground, and resolve all the divergences together in one decision." * The third section of the frontier relating to the region " close to parallel 52° S. which is referred to in the last clause of Article 2 of the Protocol of 1. 893," also left room for divergences between the Experts, which the Govern- ments could not settle by a direct understanding. Record 4 of September 22, 1898, shows that in view of this, it was agreed to submit the question to Her Britannic Majesty's Government, " in order that, subject to Base 3 of the Agreement of April 17, 1896, said Government may decide the divergences cited, and determine the divisional line in the region above named, the ground being previously surveyed by the Commission that they will appoint to that effect. " Of the three sections of the frontier separately studied by the Govern- ments, one of them has already been decided, another has been partly settled, and the third remains without any solution whatever. Her Britannic Majesty's Government have been asked to decide, with strict subjection to the Treaties, the location of the line in the Cordillera de los Andes in the points and stretches of the second section in which the Experts have not agreed, and, also, to trace the frontier in the third section in which the divergence was complete. II. The Line from Parallel 26° 52' 45" to the Proximity of Parallel 52° Latitude S. The general rules for tracing the frontier, in this vast extension, have been agreed to in the various Treaties in force. Their fundamental basis is designated in these words : " The boundary between the Argentine Republic and Chile, from north to south, as far ,as the parallel of lat. 52° S., is the Cordillera de los Andes." See Itecord of September 22, 1898. VI 1 With a view to the settlement of possible differences, the two countries arranged the method of demarcating the divisional line within the Cordillera, and it has been in his appreciation of the phrases which specify the details of the frontier that the Expert of the Chilian Republic thought he had found a means of removing the dispute from the technical aspect in which it is placed, in order to put it on a basis of theoretical doctrinarianism. In projecting the general boundary line in the Record of August 29, 1898, he set forth, " that for the tracing of said line he had solely and exclusively followed the principle of demarcation established in Article 1 of the Treaty of 1881, a principle which must also be the invariable rule of the proceedings of the Experts, according to the Protocol of 1893 ; that consequently the boundary line that he proposes runs along all the highest crests of the Andes which divide the waters, and constantly separates the springs * of the rivers which belong to either country ; that the same line leaves within the territory of each of the two nations the peaks, ridges or ranges, hoivever elevated they mag be, which do not divide the waters of the river systems belonging to each country ; that though in its most extensive and important parts the ground over which the divisional line runs has been sufficiently reconnoitred and even carefully mapped out, as has likewise been in general well established the geographical dependency of the rivers and streams which descend either side, he must nevertheless point out that the topographical location of the proposed line is wholly independent of the exactness of the maps, and that he therefore declares that said line is no other than the natural and effective dividing line of the waters of the South American Continent, between parallels 26° 52' 45" and 52°, which can be demarcated on the ground without effecting more topographical operations than are necessary for determining which would be the course of the waters there where they do not actually flow."f In accordance with this interpretation the work of the Experts would be reduced to seeking on the ground the dividing line of the waters of the * In the translation of the Minutes of the Proceedings of the Argentine and Chilian Experts, in this paragraph of Seiior Barros Arana, the word " slope" has been employed, which is a correct one in every case except this one, because Seiior Barros Arana attributes another meaning to it. t See the Record of August 29, 1898. Vlll South American Continent. The place in which a river rises should be found according to it, forcibly and necessarily, in the Cordillera de los Ancles, and also " in its most elevated crests that may divide the waters." The Expert of the Argentine Republic, in his turn, in projecting the boundary, in the Record dated September 1, 1898, stated: 1 . " That the general line which he proposes to his colleague is wholly comprised within the Cordillera de los Andes. 2. " That in its entire extent it passes between the slopes which descend one side and the other of the main range. l\. " That he considers that said main range is constituted by the pre- dominating edge of the principal and central chain of the Andes, considered such by the first geographers of the world. 4. "That this principal chain is the most elevated, the most continued, with most uniform general direction, and its flanks shed the larger volume of waters, thus presenting the conditions established, both by the Treaty of July "_':>, 1881, and by the Protocol of May 1, 1893, to constitute with the crest line of its slopes the general frontier line between the Argentine Republic and the Republic of Chile." * In accordance with these ideas, consequently, the labours of the Experts had to commence by seeking, in the Cordillera de los Andes, its ideal "axis." When once the main chain had been determined, the Experts had to trace the frontier on its edge or the line of intersection of its two sides. The Argentine Republic takes into account the chain having been always '•niisidered as the boundary, and in no way the more or less lofty peaks which rise on one side or the other, often isolated and separated from the dominating chain, nor the lateral ridges independent from the Cordillera. Chile contends that rivers can never be cut by the frontier line, no matter where they may rise, within or without the Cordillera. The Argentine Republic maintains that "parts of rivers"f nuiv an< 5 do belong to her; that the frontier line which follows the summit of the Cordillera de los Andes necessarily cuts all the watercourses which rise outside the main chain in secondary chains, or in the "flat country of the See the Record, September 1, 1S98. f Protocol of 1893, Article 2. IX Pampas,"' and which, flowing towards the West, open a passage through the defiles and gorges of the mountains. In a vast extension of the frontier, the culminating edge of the Cordillera de los Andes — the dividing line of the waters belonjrinc; to it — coincides with the Continental divide. In that extension the chain does not give passage to the streams which rise outside of it. The Experts, therefore, had no substantial difference in those places, nor in those in which the Cordillera has its bifurcation foreseen in the Treaties. In another part, on the contrary, the main chain presents gorges through which flow out the streams which rise in isolated hills, in lateral ridges, and even in the Patagonian plains themselves. In these cases, the Chilian Expert abandons the main chain, descends down the slopes to the valleys and to the plains, in order to carry the line along the sources of the rivers and the capricious windings of their courses. The Argentine Expert, for his part, following the dividing line of the waters in the crest of the main chain, continues this same line in the same chain, across the gorges. The Chilian Expert obeys no other rule than that of compliance with the line of the Continental water-parting. When that line is in the main chain, he follows the main chain of the Cordillera de los Andes ; but where it is in secondary ridges, he follows the secondary ridges. In the same way he goes to the lowest hills, and to the gentle undulations of the plains and even to marshes, if in those hills, or in those undulations or in those marshes, the Continental water- parting line is found. The Argentine Expert took into consideration before and above everything the Cordillera de los Andes. He studied its main chain, and he demarcated the frontier line along its watershed. Both Experts have referred to the water-parting line, but in different forms ; for the Chilian Expert, the water-parting line to be accounted is that of the South American Continent, without taking into consideration whether the phenomenon takes place within the Cordillera de los Andes or not ; for the Expert of the Argentine Republic, the water-parting line is nothing more than the detail which serves him as a secondary rule to designate in the main chain of the Cordillera de los Andes the topographical boundary between the two countries. b X This difference in their respective points of view explains the divergences which have arisen between the Experts when arranging the landmarks, the right or wrong placing; of which is to be a matter for the decision of Her Britannic Majesty's Government, when the ground has been surveyed by the technical Commission agreed upon. It is easy to introduce confusion, in appreciating the controversy. In order to avoid doing so, it is indispensable to define ideas with the greatest clearness, even at the risk of repetitions. Otherwise, it would be possible to think that each time that divortium aquarum is mentioned in the Treaties, and by writers, it favours the interest of the Republic of Chile in a more or less direct maimer. This, however, is not the case. The most elementary prudence suggests the study in every case of the meaning the words were intended to convey, so that the thought of its author might not be misconstrued. If, with this criterion, the boundary question between the Argentine Republic and Chile is examined, it will be found that all its antecedents lead to the following rules: — 1. The wall of the Cordillera de los Andes constitutes the natural and con- ventional frontier between the two countries, from the extreme north "to the proximities of parallel 52°." 2. Within this Cordillera the line should be traced on a chain, and not in isolated peaks. 3. The chain to be chosen is the main one, i.e. the most elevated, the most continuous, having the most uniform general trend, and its flanks shedding the largest volume of water. 4. In the main chain thus circumscribed, the line should run along its water- shed, i.e. along the edge of the intersection of its slopes, 5. The frontier line should cut all watercourses which traverse the main chain. Only those differences which have arisen between the Experts in respect of the (hawing of the dividing line through certain determined points in the Cordillera de los Andes are submitted for decision to Her Britannic Majesty's Government. The Treaties ordain that the jurisdiction of the respective XI countries is divided to the East and to the West of the summit line of the Cordillera in its main chain, and it could not have been possible to consent to even the slightest modification being suggested in the immovable boundary, nor to the slightest doubt being raised in regard to the perfect right of sovereignty of the Argentine Republic over all the lands, and over all the waters, situated in the Eastern slope of the Cordillera de los Andes. The two Governments, when stipulating the terms of Article 2 of the Agree- ment of April 17, 189(5, confirmed once more the boundaiy on the summit line of the Cordillera, and reduced the possible difficulties, and consequently the cases in which Arbitration might be necessary, to simple divergences respecting the topography of the Cordillera — divergences which might arise between the views of the Experts as to the situation of the main chain which contains the traditional high-summit ridge, and the " arcifinious " boundary. The fact of an agreement having been entered into to the effect that the said divergences were only to be decided by the Arbitration, after a survey of the ground that gave rise to them, by a Commission of Technical Experts, throws still more light, if possible, upon the intention of the Governments. Such a survey would have been totally unnecessary for studying the question in the form in which it has been placed before the Tribunal by the Representative of Chile, since the Chilian Expert himself has affirmed that the line which he proposed to the Argentine Expert is wholly independent of the exactness of the maps. If a mere principle of delimitation — viz. the orographic (that of the summit line of the Cordillera), or the hydrographic (that of the Continental divide) — should have been submitted to Arbitration, the decision could have been arrived at without any particular knowledge of the ground. This pretension was mooted by the Chilian Expert in 1892, and repeated in 1*93 and 1894, but was rejected by the two Governments by the Protocol of 1893 and the Agreement of 1896. Had Chile supported this view, the said Agreements would not have been made, nor would the Experts have carried out the work of surveying the whole general frontier line in an extension of 29 de- grees of latitude before beginning to decide upon the erection of the landmarks. The various Conventions made to remove the difficulties raised owing to the erroneous opinions of the Chilian Expert, are an evident proof that the b 2 Xll Arbitration agreed upon by the Treaty of 1881 did not in any manner include the general principle of the delimitation of the international frontier — a principle which was recognised as unalterable. If the two Governments had thought the contrary, the present question, such as the Chilian Representative seeks to present to the Tribunal, would have been submitted to Arbitration in 1890, for in no case would the Argentine Government have eluded the fulfilment of so solemn a stipulation, one so far-reaching in its political and economical con- sequences. As a matter of fact, Chile acknowledged in 1896* the necessity for a thorough knowledge of the ground, in order to settle the difficulties that form the matter for Arbitration, which is also proved by the form in which these difficulties, where produced, have been submitted to the decision of Her Britannic Majesty's Government by the Governments interested. Nor could there be any question upon this point. This was recognised to be the case by the Minister for Chile at Buenos Aires, Senor Joaquin Walker Martinez, when proposing to the Argentine Government, on behalf of his country, on June 25, 1898, that Her Britannic Majesty's Government should be asked to send the Commission to which the Agreement of 1896 refers, in order to proceed to survey the ground where it was known that differences would arise in the next month of August, the time arranged between the Experts for drawing the general frontier line in the Cordillera de los Andes. He likewise recognised this when he proposed that the Arbitrator should be asked to deliver his decisions in the order which both Governments by mutual agreement should ask for when isolated points were to be dealt with, and that when it was a question of extensive lines, or when there existed no agreement upon the point, the North to South order should be followed. Soon after, the idea that the only difficulties were geographical received solemn sanction in the Minute of September 22, 1898, which gave birth to the arbitral jurisdiction. The two countries agreed to charge their respective Plenipotentiaries in London, not with the discussion of abstract principles, but merely that they should present a certain number of documents which are now in the hands of Agreement of April 17, Article 11. Xlll the Tribunal, and that they should request from Her Britannic Majesty's Government the appointment of the Commission which was to survey the ground where had arisen " the differences and disagreements," which alone form the sole " divergences that have arisen," or " points of dispute," as was declai-ed before the Chilian Congress by the Chilian Minister for Foreign Affairs, in his Report of June 1, 1899.* Ill The Line in the Region Close to Parallel 52° S. The other question which Her Britannic Majesty's Government is called upon to decide can be condensed in a few words. It was agreed, between the two countries, that, " If in the peninsular part of the South, on nearing parallel 52° S., the Cordillera should be found penetrating into the channels of the Pacific there existing, the Experts shall undertake the study of the ground in order to fix a boundary line, leaving to Chile the coast of said channels, in consideration of which study both Governments shall determine said line amicably." The opportunity having arrived, the Argentine Expert stated that, in view of the surveys made by his assistants and of the " observations he has personally made on the ground, he declares that he has the firm conviction that in effect, the Cordillera de los Andes is found penetrating into the channels which really exist in the peninsular part of the South on nearing parallel 52°, and that the waters of those channels wash coasts of lands which do not belong to the Cordillera de los Andes, which lies to the west of said channels," and he added, " that he requires to know the opinion of the Chilian Expert on this point, so that if both agree on same they may proceed to fulfil what is ordered" in the Treaties. The Chilian Expert said, " that, as regards the statement made by his colleague with reference to the Cordillera de los Andes penetrating into the channels of the Pacific in the vicinity of parallel 52°, he agrees with his appre- ciations in so far as they may apply to several elevated mountain regions of the * Respecting Senor Joaquin "Walker Martinez' proposal, see Memoria de Eelaciones Exteriores y Culto, submitted to the National Argentine Congress in 1899, pp. 177 et seq. XIV Cordillera de los Andes; but not to the totality of same, because other branches of same extend over the Continent towards the North of the Estuary of Ultima Esperanza. He adds that he does not give to the expressed proposition the character of prior importance, because the survey of the ground made by the Chilian Commission to fix a divisional line leaving to Chile the coasts of said channels, leads him to the conclusion that the natural interior delimitation of said coasts is no other than the one of the hydrographic basin which empties into them/' * The consequence of these divergent appreciations affects in a high degree the boundary dispute. If the Cordillera de los Andes in the proximity of parallel 52° 8. "is found penetrating into channels of the Pacific," such channels, and also their coasts, will belong to Chile, it being necessary to determine by the decision of the Arbitration how tar such coasts extend inland. If the Cordillera does not penetrate the said channels, the boundary must be marked out in it, according to the Treaties. IV. Rules of Interpretation*. Before considering the points contained in the pending question of frontiers, it is necessary to set forth some of the rules of interpretation which the Argentine Republic has in mind, and which support the conclusions reached by her. They are not mentioned here as admitting that the boundary dispute is in itself a doctrinal dispute, but with the view already mentioned of contesting the mistaken appreciations of the Chilian Expert which, although foreign to the dispute, have been laid before the Tribunal. These rules have not been sought for here and there with any preconceived idea : they have been found all together, forming a mass of doctrine. They are the ones proclaimed by Her Britannic Majesty's Government, which set them forth and defended them in one of their boundary disputes in these terms: — 1. 'The words of a Treaty arc: to be taken to be used in the sense in which they were commonly used at the time when the Treaty was entered into. * See ill.' Record of September 1, 1898. XV 2. " In interpreting any expression in a Treaty, regard must be had to the context and spirit of the whole Treaty. 3. " The interpretation should be drawn from the connection and relation of the different parts. 4. "The interpretation should be suitable to the reason of the Treaty. 5. " Treaties are to be interpreted in a favourable rather than in an odious sense. 6. "Whatever interpretation tends to change the existing state of things at the time the Treaty was made is to be ranked in the class of odious things." Applying these rules to the boundary dispute, in its proper sense and in its true meaning, it will be seen that the Argentine rights are so evident that it is not possible there should exist, with regard thereto, even the shadow of a doubt. The Chilian Republic invoked, as a rule of interpretation, a paragraph of Pradier Fodere. The Argentine Republic accepts it in every particular. These are his words : " As the interpretation of a document must aim only at the discovery of the intention of its author or authors, it is necessary to seek such intention and to interpret it accordingly, carefully examining the facts, the circumstances immediately preceding the signature of the Agreement, the Protocols, the Minutes of the proceedings and the different writings of the Negotiators ; the causes which have given rise to the Treaty must be studied, taking into consideration the object which the parties had in view at the commencement of the negotiations.' V. Plan of this Statement. The Argentine Republic offered the Tribunal in the first statement, "any information or evidence it might require," and also offered " to take into con- sideration the statement read by the Representative of Chile, in which some incomplete quotations have been observed." * Papers relating to the Treaty of Washington, Berlin Arbitration, Washington, 1872, vol. 5, pp. 68-70. XVI It has already been said that the work of the Arbitrator is purely an Expert matter ; consequently, the information and the evidence it requires is only that which may lead, from an historical and geographical aspect, to prove the characteristics -which tradition and science attribute to the Cordillera de los Andes referred to in the Treaty of 1881 and in the explanatory Protocol of 1893. Desiring to facilitate the work, it has been sought to get together all the data which permit the appreciation of the exactness and fitness of the line traced by the Argentine Expert, in accordance with the letter and spirit of the covenants which it was his mission to apply, as well as those which permit the appreciation of the inconsistency of the project formulated by the Expert of the Chilian Republic, who abandons the formidable natural barrier consecrated by the Agreements, in spite of its having been manifested by the Chilian Minister for Foreign Affairs in the name of the said Expert, in the Record of September 22, 1808, that the line is located in the Cordillera de los Andes, "as ordered by the Treaties, and in the form which they establish." At the same time and in the proper place in every chapter will be analysed the statement read by the Chilian Representative, the purpose of which is to remove the question from the limits to which it is restricted by Article 2 of the Agreement of 1896, to make it a doctrinarian one, which the Arbitral Agreement does not admit. It is with the desire of placing before the Tribunal every ante- cedent that the arguments adduced in that statement will be refuted, but without admitting thereby that there is any possibility of evading the consequences which arise out of the conventions ; without accepting that the dispute as to the location of the boundary marks- in the Cordillera de los Andes can be transformed into a dispute on abstract principles. The boundary line along the summit of that Cordillera must " remain at all events immovable between the two Republics. '* So it has been consecrated by both Nations in their solemn covenants. East- wards of the edge of the main chain of the Cordillera de los Andes extends the Argentine Sovereignty;! and sovereignty is not under discussion, nor submitted to Arbitration. Before proceeding to fully study the controversy, it must be stated that the Treaty ,,1' 1881, Article U. t Prot< 1 of 1893, Article ± XVI 1 line proposed by the Chilian Expert would bring under the dominion of Chile vast regions now in possession of the Argentine Republic, where Argentine law has been in force for years, ever since they were opened up by her to civilisation. The zones in dispute, belonging to the Argentine Republic as heiress of Spain, were in former times occupied by savage tribes, which the Argentine Republic subdued and tamed through her persevering and exclusive efforts. Having incorporated the Indian inhabitants into her own community, she founded colonies and allotted lands, creating townships at Lago Lacar, at Lago Nahuel-huapi, at Valle Nuevo, at Valle lb' de Octubre, at Carrenleufu, at Rivers Pico and Frias, at Rio Aisen, at Lago Maravilla, etc., which have acquired comparative importance. When the Argentine Republic's efforts have been crowned with success; when her armies and her capitals have opened up to foreign commerce the southern regions bordering on the Cordillera ; when the above-mentioned settle- ments, governed by her laws and ruled by her authorities even before the Treaty of <'uly 23, 1881, have become flourishing — the Chilian Expert pretends to annex to his country territories which Chile never, by public acts, helped to civilise, and in which she consented to the quiet and public Argentine occupation without protest or objection. Only at the eleventh hour, on the eve of the Expert's divergences being submitted to arbitral decision, did the Chilian Minister in Buenos Aires represent against open and proclaimed acts of Sovereignty accomplished by the Argentine Government; as if the effect of prolonged and undisturbed possession, de jure et de facto, could be destroyed by a mere document whose aim could not be but a desire to modify the matter of Arbitration, including in it one of those questions which the British Govern- ment have invariably maintained it is impossible to refer to Arbitration, since they affect the Sovereignty, and may convert into aliens the citizens of a country.* * See Note from the Marquis of Salisbury to Sir Julian Pauncefote, dated Loudon, March 5, 1896. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTORY STATEMENT. PAGE EEASONS FOE THIS STATEMENT ....... i QUESTIONS SUBMITTED TO THE AEBITEATION OF HEE BEITANNIC MAJESTY'S GOVEENMENT .......... iv THE LINE FEOM PAEALLEL 26° 52' 45" TO THE PEOXIMITY OF PAEALLEL 52° S. LAT. .......... vi THE LINE IN THE EEGION CLOSE TO PAEALLEL 52° S. LAT. . . . xiii EULES OF INTEEPEETATION . . . . . ... xiv PLAN OF THIS STATEMENT ........ xv CHAPTER I. THE BOUNDAEY DUEING SPANISH COLONIAL PEEIOD .... 1 THE BOUNDAEY AFTEE THE EMANCIPATION. ..... 5 CHAPTER II. NECESSITY OF STATING WHAT WAS UNDEESTOOD AS " COEDILLERA DE LOS ANDES" .......... 10 MEANING OF THE "COEDILLERA DE LOS ANDES" IN THE COLONIAL EPOCH 11 EESULTS DEEIVED FEOM THE DOCUMENTS QUOTED . . . .23 d xx Divergences in the Cordillera de lus Andes. CHAPTER III. PAGE THE CORDILLERA DE LOS ANDES ACCORDING TO THE OPINIONS MAINTAINED AT THE TIME OF EMANCIPATION ...... 29 OPINION OF FOREIGN TRAVELLERS AND GEOGRAPHERS WHO HAVE VISITED CHILE ........... 31 OPINION OF SEVERAL AUTHORS OF POPULAR WORKS . . . .47 OPINION OF SCIENTIFIC MEN IN THE SERVICE OF CHILE: GAY, PISSIS, DOMEYKO AND ASTA-BURUAGA ....... 54 OPINION OF OTHER WRITERS ........ 6.G CHAPTER IV. OPINIONS OF THE CHILIAN EXPERT .... 85 THE CORDILLERA AS DESCRIBED BY THE CHILIAN EXPERT . 86 THE CHILIAN EXPERT'S DEFINITIONS AND DESCRIPTION OF PATAGONIA . 90 CHAPTER V. CHILIAN OFFICIAL VIEWS REGARDING TnE WORDING IN INTERNATIONAL BOUNDARIES .......... 94 THE CHILIAN-BOLIVIAN TREATY OF 1866 ...... 95 THE CHILIAN-BOLIVIAN TREATY OF 1874 ...... 97 OTHER OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS .......... 100 CHAPTER VI. INTERSECTION OF THE CORDILLERA DE LOS ANDES BY RIVERS IN THE SOUTH . . . . . . . . . 103 EXPLORATIONS BY LADRILLERO (1557-1559) AND GARCIA (1766-1767) . 104 EXPEDITIONS OF THE "ADVENTURE" AND THE "BEAGLE" (1826-1830) . 108 Contents. xxi PAGE EXPLOEATIONS BY COX AND FEICK ....... 113 EXPLORATIONS BY VIDAL GORMAZ AND SIMPSON . . . . .124 EXPEDITIONS BY THE OFFICERS OF THE CHILIAN GUNBOAT " MAGALLANES " 133 RESULTS TO BE DERIVED FROM THESE EXPLORATIONS . . . .147 CHAPTER VII. ORIGIN OF THE BOUNDARY QUESTION . . . . . .149 THE FRONTIER LINE ACCORDING TO TREATY OF 1881 . . . .152 DIPLOMATIC NEGOTIATIONS PRIOR TO THE TREATY OF 1881 . . .154 NEGOTIATIONS OF THE TREATY OF 1881 . . . . . .175 CHAPTER VIII. ERRONEOUS CONSIDERATIONS ON THE INTERPRETATION OF THE TREATY OF 1881 ........... 181 INTERPRETATION CONSISTENT WITH INTERNATIONAL LAW . . .188 INTERPRETATION CONSISTENT WITH THE VIEWS OF THE NEGOTIATORS . 196 INTERPRETATION CONSISTENT WITH THE LITERAL MEANING OF THE COVENANT .......... 200 CHILIAN INTERPRETATION ........ 223 CHAPTER IX. CONVENTION OF 1888 ......... 231 CABINET COUNCIL OF THE ARGENTINE GOVERNMENT OF DECEMBER 24. 1889 235 DISAGREEMENT BETWEEN THE EXPERTS, SENORES PICO AND BARROS ARANA 245 DISAGREEMENT BETWEEN THE EXPERTS, SENORES VIRASORO AND BARROS 253 ARANA ........... VARIOUS QUESTIONS SETTLED BY THE PROTOCOL OF 1893 . . .262 d 2 XX11 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. CHAPTER X. EKRONEOUS INTERPRETATION OF THE PROTOCOL OF 1893 THE OPINION OF SOME NEWSPAPERS ...... THE SPIRIT OF THE BOUNDARY TREATY DECLARED BY THE PROTOCOL PARTS OF RIVERS ......... ARTICLE VI. OF THE PROTOCOL. ...... NEGOTIATIONS OF THE PROTOCOL OF 1893 ..... PAGB 266 275 276 281 292 294 CHAPTER XI. INSTRUCTIONS OF JANUARY 1, 1894 THE 1895 AGREEMENT ....... QUESTIONS WHICH BROUGHT ABOUT THE AGREEMENT OF 1896 SOLUTIONS AGREED TO IN THE AGREEMENT OF 1896 305 DISAGREEMENT OF THE EXPERTS SENORES QUIRNO COSTA AND BARROS ARANA ........... 314 321 326 329 CHAPTER XII. PROCEEDINGS OF SENOR MORENO AS ARGENTINE EXPERT ;:.;, VIEWS OF THE ARGENTINE EXPERT REGARDING THE SURVEYING OF THE GROUND. .......... 338 EVENTS LEADING UP TO THE RECORD OF MAY 1, 1897 .... 339 MEETING OF MAY 14, 1898 ........ 341 THE WORK OF THE ARGENTINE AND CHILIAN BOUNDARY COMMISSIONS . 347 Contents. xxiii CHAPTER XIII. IAGE FULFILMENT OF THE ENGAGEMENT ENTERED INTO BY THE EXPERTS ON MAY 1, 1897 .......... 357 PROPOSALS FOR THE GENERAL LINE OF FRONTIER . . . .359 AGREEMENT AND DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE EXPERTS . . .371 CHAPTER XIV. THE RECORD OF SEPTEMBER 22, 1898 ....... 385 THE BOUNDARY LINE OF THE ARGENTINE EXPERT ACCORDING TO CHILIAN OFFICIAL ACTS ......... 388 OPINIONS OF RECLUS, SAN ROMAN AND STEFFEN FAVOURABLE TO THE ARGENTINE LINE ......... 393 THE ARGENTINE EXPERT HAS NOT ENTIRELY FOLLOWED THE CONTI- NENTAL WATER PARTING WHEN TRACING HIS LINE IN THE SECTIONS IN WHICH THE BOUNDARY HAS BEEN DEFINITELY FIXED . . 402 THE MAIN CHAIN OF THE ANDES ACCORDING TO THE ARGENTINE EXPERT 405 THE BOUNDARY LINE AT THE BIFURCATION OF THE CORDILLERA . . 417 INAPPLICABILITY OF THE LINE OF THE CHILIAN EXPERT . . .419 THE CHILIAN STATESMEN AGAINST THE CHILIAN EXPERT . . .421 CHAPTER XV. CONSIDERATIONS ADVANCED IN DEFENCE OF THE CONTINENTAL DIVORTIUM AQUARUM .......... 429 ERRONEOUS VIEWS ON THE MAIN CHAIN OF THE ANDES . . .431 THE WORK OF DEMARCATION ........ 441 SUPPOSED ADVANTAGES OF THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE . . . .448 xxiv Divergences in tlic Cordillera de los Andes. PAGE RULES OF INTERNATIONAL LAW ....... 464 THE CONTINENTAL DIVORTIDM AQUARUM IS NOT STIPULATED IN THE TREATIES .......... 466 THE BOUNDARY MUST BE OROGRAPHICAL AND NOT HTDROGRAPHICAL . 474 THE WATER-PARTING LINE DIVERGES FROM THE MAIN CHAIN OF THE CORDILLERA, AND IN SOME POINTS IS OUT OF IT . . . . 478 ON THE SIDE OF THE ARGENTINE REPDBLIC THERE IS MORE FACILITY OF ACCESS TO THE WATER-PARTING LINE . . . . .487 THE DIVORTIUM AQUARUM IS NOT A PERMANENT LINE . . .490 CHAPTER XVI. COMPARISON BETWEEN THE ARGENTINE AND THE CHILIAN BOUNDARY LINES. GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS . . . . . .495 THE PROPOSED ARGENTINE LINE FROM A GEOGRAPHICAL POINT OF VIEW 498 THE PROPOSED CHILIAN LINE FROM A GEOGRAPHICAL POINT OF VIEW . 507 THE PROPOSED ARGENTINE LINE FROM A POLITICAL, ECONOMICAL AND ADMINISTRATIVE POINT OF VIEW ...... 518 THE PROPOSED CHILIAN LINE FROM A POLITICAL, ECONOMICAL AND ADMINISTRATIVE POINT OF VIEW ...... 522 CAUSES WHICH LED TO THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN BOTH LINES . . 531 PRELIMINARY EXPLORATIONS IN THE ANDEAN REGION BETWEEN 1888 AND 1898 ........... 539 INUTILITY OF INACCURATE MAPS ....... 556 MAPS 01? THE CHILIAN BOUNDARY COMMISSION . . . . .563 CONFUSION PRODUCED IN CHILE OWING TO THE LACK OF GEOGRAPHICAL DATA ........... 570 CHAPTER XVII. STARTING POINT OF THE DIFFERENCES SUBMITTED TO ARBITRATION. PIRCA DE INDIOS AND SAN FRANCISCO LANDMARKS . . . 575 DEMARCATION IN THE NORTH. DIVERSE CHAINS OF MOUNTAINS . . 580 Contents. xxv 1'AGE THE COEDILLEEA DE LOS ANDES ON THE NOETH, AS DESCRIBED BY THE CHILIAN GEOGEAPHEES SENORES BAEEOS AEANA, BEETEAND, SAN EOMAN AND MUNOZ ......... 591 THE COEDILLEEA DE LOS ANDES ON THE NOETH, ACCOEDING TO SEVEEAL AUTHOEITIES .......... 607 PEOJECTS OF THE EXPEETS EELATING TO THE BOUNDAEY LINE FROM 23° TO 26° 52' 45" S. LAT. ........ 610 THE CHAIN POINTED OUT BY THE CHILIAN EXPEET FEOM 23 ' TO 26° 52' 45" S. LAT. IS INTEESECTED BY EIVEES ...... 616 THE DEFINITIVE MARKING OUT OF THE BOUNDAEY LINE FEOM 23° TO 26° 52' 45" S. LAT. ......... 628 FUETHEE CONSIDERATIONS ON THE SAN FEANCISCO LANDMARK . . 637 CHAPTER XVIII. THE BOUNDAEY BETWEEN PAEALLELS 26° 52' 45" AND 40° S. LAT. OPINIONS OF DOCTOES BUEMEISTEE AND BEACKEBUSCH . . . .642 EEMAEKS ON THE STATEMENT OF THE CHILIAN REPRESENTATIVE AS TO THE HEIGHTS OF THE LINE ....... 652 THE ARGENTINE LINE BETWEEN PARALLELS 26° 52' 45" AND 40° S. LAT. . 659 CHAPTER XIX. DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE EXPERTS ON THE REGION IN THE VICINITY OF LAKE LACAR ......... 685 GENERAL CONFIGURATION OF THE REGION ...... 688 EXPLORATIONS OF CHILIAN ORIGIN WHICH CORROBORATE THE RESULTS OF THE ARGENTINE SURVEYS ........ 695 CUTTING OF THE RIVER HUAHDM BY THE BOUNDARY LINE . . .707 ARGENTINE OCCUPATION OF THE VALLEY LACAR . . . . .720 XXVI Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. CHAPTER XX. DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE EXPERTS ON THE REGION FROM PEREZ ROSALES PASS TO THE GORGE OF RIVER MANSO .... CHAPTER XXI. (40 J HFFERENCES FROM THE GORGE OF RIVER MANSO TO THE GORGE OF RIVER PUELO .......... 762 THE VALLEY OF EPUYEN AND CHOLILA. GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS EXPLORATIONS CARRIED OUT BY CHILIAN SURVEYORS . THE ARGENTINE LINE IN THIS REGION ..... REMARKS ON THE CHILIAN LINE ...... 770 774 780 791 CHAPTER XXII. THE VALLEY 16 DE OCTDBRE . ARGENTINE OCCUPATION OF THIS VALLEY 799 si 5 CHAPTER XXIII. THE CORDILLERA DE LOS ANDES IN THE REGION OF THE CARRENLEUFU 822 EXPLORATIONS OF THE CHILIAN OFFICER SENOR SERRANO MONTANER . 824 THE CHILIAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION OF THE PALENA . . . 828 THE PROPOSED ARGENTINE AND CHILIAN LINES IN THIS ZONE . . 835 Contents. XXV 11 CHAPTER XXIV. DIFFERENCES IN THE REGION OF THE RIVERS PICO AND FRIAS EXPLORATIONS CARRIED OUT IN THIS ZONE GENERAL CONFIGURATION OF THE GROUND PAGE 846 849 859 CHAPTER XXV. THE REGION OF LAKES FONTANA AND LA PLATA THE REGION OF THE RIVER AISEN. CHILIAN EXPLORATIONS GENERAL CONFIGURATION OF THE GROUND THE ARGENTINE AND THE CHILIAN BOUNDARY LINES . 874 878 887 894 CHAPTER XXVI. DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE EXPERTS TO THE SOUTH OF THE RIVER HUEMULES ..... DIFFERENCES AT THE RIVER FENIX . DIFFERENCES AT THE LAKE BUENOS AIRES DIFFERENCES AT THE RIVER LAS HERAS . DIFFERENCES AT THE LAKE SAN MARTIN . THE BOUNDARY LINE, FROM MOUNT FITZ-ROT TO MOUNT STOKES REMARKS ON THE ARGENTINE LINE ..... 900 902 911 918 926 940 943 xxviii Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. CHAPTER XXVII. PAGE ANTECEDENTS ON THE BOUNDARY LINE NEAR PARALLEL 52° S. LAT. . 947 GENERAL CONFIGURATION OF THE GROUND . . . . .961 REMARKS ON THE ARGENTINE AND CHILIAN PROPOSED BOUNDARY LINES . 984 CHAPTER XXVIII. TRANSVERSAL SECTIONS. GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS . . . .993 THE BOUNDARY FROM 23° S. LAT. TO MOUNT TRES CRUCES . . .994 THE BOUNDARY FROM MOUNT TRES CRUCES TO 40° S. LAT. . . . 1002 THE BOUNDARY FROM 40° S. LAT. TO 52° S. LAT. . . . . .1017 CHAPTER XXIX. REMARKS ON THE MAPS ACCOMPANYING THIS REPORT .... 1041 MAP OF THE NORTHERN REGION ....... 1042 MAPS OF THE SOUTHERN REGION ....... 1048 OTHER MAPS ........... 10G0 CHAPTER XXX. CONCLUSION (SYNTHESIS OF THE ARGENTINE-CHILIAN BOUNDARY QUESTION) 1062 Contents. xxix APPENDIX. TREATIES, AGREEMENTS, RECORDS, ETC.:— PAGE Treaty of 1826 .......... 1101 Tbeaty of 1856 .......... 1104 Treaty of 1881 .......... 1116 Convention of 1888 ......... 1120 Protocol of 1893 ......... 1123 Record of December 24, 1893 ........ 1127 Instructions fob the Assistants who are to Mark out the Bi-.undary Line between the Argentine Republic and the Republic of Chile in the Cordillera dk los Andes 1128 Agreement of 1895 ......... 1131 Agreement of 1896 ......... 1132 Record of the Experts, May 1, 1897 ....... 1134 Record of the Proceedings of the Meetings of the Argentine and Chilian Experts, August 29 to September 3, and October 1, 1898 . . . . 1135-61, 1166 Records signed in Santiago, Chile, by the Argentine Minister, Doctor Norberto Pixero, and the Minister fob Foreign Affairs of Chile, relative to the Experts' Divergences and to Arbitration ....... 1162 Records signed at Santiago relating to the Demarcation of the Boundary between Parallels 23° and 26° 52' 45" ....... 1168 Conference of Buenos Aires ........ 1172 Records Referring to the Demarcation of the Boundaries of the Pdna de Atacama . 1176 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAG1I Mount Tupungato and Tupungato Pass. Argentine landmarks Nos. 132, 133. Frontispiece Map— Felix de Azaka, 1781-1801. (From Voyages dans l'Amerique Meridionale, Paris, 1809) 22 Map — Jose de Espinosa y Felipe Bauza, 1794. (Part from the Carta Esfenca de la parte interior de la America Meridional para manifestar el camino que conduce desde Valparaiso a Buenos Aires. Madrid, 1810) ....... 24 Map — Jose de Espinosa y Felipe Bauza, 1794. (Piano del Paso de los Andes, 1810) . 26 Map — Antonio de Herrera, 1601. (From Descripcion de las Indias Occidentales, Madrid, 1601) .......... 27 Map — Antonio de Herrera, 1G01. (From Descripcion de las Indias Occidentales, Madrid, 1601) .......... 28 Map— John Miers, 1826. (From Travels in Chile and La Plata) .... 37 Map — J. M. Gilliss, 1856. (From the U.S. Naval Astronomical Expedition to the Southern Hemisphere) .......... 43 La Cumbre. Eobert Elwes, 1854. (From A Sketcher's Tour round the World) . . 46 Map — Alejandro Bertrand, 1880. (From Anuario Hidrografico de Chile, Santiago, vol. 6) . 106 Maps— William Frick, 1862. (From Petermann's Geographische Mittheilungen, 1864. Published by permission of Justus Perthes, Gotha) . . . . . .120 Map— Francisco Vidal Gormaz, 1863. (From Piano del Estero Comau y Eio Bodudahue, Santiago de Chile, 1866) . . . . . . . .127 Map — Francisco Vidal Gormaz, 1872. (From Exploracion del Seno de Eeloncavf, lago de Llanquihue y rio Puelo, Santiago de Chile, 1872) .... Plate 1. 12ti Map— Alejandro Bertrand, 1886. (From Piano Topografico de la Eegion Central Magallaniea, Santiago, 1886) ......... 239 Map— Surveys of the Argentine Boundary Commission, 1892-1S98 . . . 3."i' xxxii Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. Mat — Surveys of the Chilian Boundary Commission, 1892-1898 .... 353 Mount Gallo and its Glacier, in the Main Chain of the Cordillera de los Andes, according to Dr. Steffeu, and considered so by the Argentine Expert. (Reproduction of a Plate from Informe sumario acerca del trascurso y resultados generales de la expedition exploradora del rio Cisnes, by Juan Steffen, Santiago, 1898) .... 400 Region of the Origin of the River Cisnes, or Feias, in the Main Chain of the Cordillera de los Andes, as considered by the Chilian Expert. (Reproduction of a Plate from Informe sumario acerca del trascurso y resultados generales de la expedition exploradora del rio Cisnes, by Juan Steffen, Santiago, 1898) . . . . .401 Morado Gap (5070 m. ; 1G,63G f.), facing to the N.N.E. towards Mount Aconcagua. Argentine landmark No. 129 ...... Plate II. 414 Morado Gap (5070 m. ; 16,636 f.), facing towards Mount Tupungato and Brarard Volcano. Argentine landmark No. 129 . . . . . . Plate III. 414 Las Pircas Gaf (4S9S m. ; 10,070 f.). Argentine landmark No. 128 . . Plate IV. 414 Quebrada Honda Gap (4293 m.; 14,085 f.), showing Mount Aconcagua to the E.S.E. Argentine landmark No. 115 . . . . . . . Plate V. 414 Argentine Boundary Line. Landmark No. 301, on the summit of the Main Chain of the Andes (Mount San Valentin), according to the Argentine Expert . . . 416 Chilian Boundary Line. Landmarks Nos. 320 and 321 (opening of Pariaiken and unnamed foot of the tableland), on the summit of the " Main Chain of the Andes," according to the Chilian Expert ........ 416 Panorama from the " Contrabandistas " Gap (4436 m. ; 14,557 f.). Argentine landmark No. 121, in the Main Chain of the Andes, according to the Argentine Expert. Chilian landmark No. 122 . . . . . . Plate VI. 425 Panorama from the Sources of the River Pico (815 m. ; 2G74 f ). Chilian landmarks Nos. 299 and 300, in a "nameless opening" . . . Plate VII. 425 Continental Divide in the Plain of Vizcachas ...... 4i'7 Mount Tres Cruces (6780 in. ; 22,245 f.). Argentine landmark No. 3; Chilian landmark No. 10 . . . . . . . . Plate VIII. 464 Plains of Diana (40 to 80 m. ; 130 to 200 f.) in the Continental Divide, from Punta Aha. Chilian landmarks Nos. 340 and 347, in "unnamed pass" and "unnamed hillock " Plate IX. 404 Map -Diagrammatic Sketch, showing the proposed Argentine and Chilian Boundary Lines Plate X 497 Map— Diagrammatic Sketch, showing the Argentine and Chilian landmarks in Sections A to .1 of Uh' respective Boundary Lines .... Plate XI. 499 List of Illustrations. xxxi 11 Map — Diagrammatic Sketch, showing the Kegions Militarily Occupied by the Argentine and Chilian Armies in 1881-1883 ...... Plate XH. Gorge of the Bio Puelo. (From Viage y estudios en la Region Hidrografica del Bio Puelo por Juan Steffen, Santiago, 1898) Gorge of the River Fetaleufu Kahds of the Eio Cisnes . Eapids of the Eio Aisen Eapids of the Eio Las Heras Map — Diagrammatic Sketch, showing the Argentine and Chilian Settlements on both sides of that part of the Cordillera de los Andes where Divergences have arisen between the Experts ........ Plate XIII. Map — Diagrammatic Sketch, showing the Principal Argentine Railways and Wagon Eoads to the South of 38° S. lat. ...... Plate XIV. Map — Oscar De Fischer, 1894. (From Carta General de la Region reconocida por la expedicion exploradora del Eio Palena) .... Plate XV. Map — Hans Steffen, 1897. (From Uebersichtskarte des Chilenisch-Argentinischen Grenz- gebiets, 1897.) ....... Plate XVI. Map — Dr. Juan Steffen and Senor Oscar De Fischer, 1897. Sketch Map of the Hydro- graphic Basin of the Eio Aisen ..... Plate XVII. Map of the Eio Aisen. (From Fran Patagoniens vestkust till pampasomradet pa Kor- dillerans Ostra Sida, Af. P. Dusen, Ymer 1897) ..... Map of Patagonia, Illustrating Explorations of J. B. Hatcher, 1896-1897. (From National Geographical Magazine, vol. viii., p. 311, Washington, 1897) Map — Juan de la Cruz Cano y Olmedilla, Madrid, 1775. (Eeproduction of Sheet 7.) Plate XVIII. Map — Stieler, 1881-1888. (Eeproduced by permission from Stieler's Handatlas, Sheet 94) Plate XIX. Map— W. & A K. Johnston, 1898. Plate XX. Map— Section of the Map of Chile, drawn by the General Department of Public Works of Chile, 1897 .......... Map — Section Map of Chile, drawn by the General Department of Public Works of Chile, 1897 ........... Map — Alejandro Bertrand, 1898. (From Libertad Electoral, Santiago) Plate XXI. 503 505 506 507 508 509 526 530 542 542 550 551 554 558 558 560 561 563 564 xxxiv Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. PAGE Map — Diagrammatic Sketch, showing the Proposed Argentine and Chilian Lines, the Itinerary of Seiior Bertrand's Journey, and the Zones Surveyed by the Chilian Boundary Sub- Commissions till 1898, according to Official Documents . . . Plate XXII. 565 Map — Diego Barkos Arana, Chilian Expert, 1898 .... Plate XXIII. 567 Map of the Chilian Boundary Commission, 1898 .... Plate XXIV. 568 Map— Hans Stebten, 1898. (From Piano de la Region Patagonica). . Plate XXV. 570 Map— Sir Martin Conway, 1898. Western Slope of the Cordillera Real de Bolivia, from Illampu to Illimani ....... Plate XXVI. 581 Mount Peinado (5763 m. ; 18,908 f.) ..... Mounts Lascar (5870 m. ; 19,259 f.) and Hecar, in the Cordillera de los Andes Mount Tumiza (5670 m. ; 18,602 f.), in the Cordillera de los Andes Mount Lejia (5650 m. ; 18,537 f.), in the Cordillera de los Andes . Mount Miniques (5900 m. ; 19,357 f.), in the Cordillera de los Andes Mount Socompa (6080 m. ; 19,948 f.), in the Cordillera de los Andes Llullaillaco Volcano (6620 m. ; 21,720 f.), in the Cordillera de los Andes 584 585 586 587 588 589 590 Mount Jcncalito, or Wheelwright (5900 m. ; 19,357 f.), and Pirca de Indios Gap (4590 m. ; 15,059 f.), Argentine landmark No. 1, in the Main Chain of the Cordillera de los Andes Plate XXVII. 590 Cordillera de los Andes, from Llullaillaco Volcano (6620 m. ; 21,720 f.) to Azufre Volcano (5680 m. ; 18,636 f.) ...... 591 Map — Francisco J. San Roman, 1895. (From Estudios y datos practicos sabre las Cuestiones Internacionales de limites entre Chile, Bolivia y Republica Argentina, Santiago, 1895) . 605 Map — From Petermann's Geographische Mittheilungen, 1856 . . Plate XXVIII. 608 Map— From Petermann's Geographische Mittheilungen, 1860 . . Plate XXIX. Cos Map — From Mapa Original de la Refoblica Argentina, Etc. Dr. A. Petermann, Gotha, Justus Perthes, 1875 ....... Plate XXX. 608 Map— Hermann Burmeister, 1861. (From Reise durch die La Plata — Staaten, etc., Halle) . 609 M \p —ALEJANDRO Bertrand, 1884. (From Memoria sobre las Cordilleras del Desierto de Atacama) 617 Maps — From Carta OicogrAfica del desierto y Cordilleras de Atacama, lev antado por la Comision exploradora de Atacama. (Francisco J. San Roman, Ingeniero Jefe y Santiago Minion, Ingeniero Ayudante, Direction General de Obras Piiblicas, Section de Minas y Geografia. Santiago de Chile, 1890) .... 620,621 List of Illustrations. xxxv Map— Diego Baeros Arana, Chilian Expert, 189S. (From La Question de b'mites entre Chile y la Eepublica Argentina, Santiago, 1898) ...... 626 Map of the Chilian Boundary Commission, 1898. (From Demarcacion de limites entre Chile y la Eepublica Argentina, Santiago, 1898) ..... 627 Map — Diagrammatic Sketch, showing the different chains between the Cordillera Real de Bolivia and the Cordillera de los Andes to the North of 34° S. lat. Plate XXXI. 641 Map — Dr. Hermann Burmeister, 1860 . . . . • • 644 Map— Dr. Hermann Burmeister, 1876. (From Description Physique de la Eepublique Argentine, Paris) .......•• 650 Main Chain of the Cordillera de los Andes between Mount Juncal or Wheelwright and Mount Cenizo, from the West (at 5010 m. ; 16,437 f.) . . Plate XXXII. 660 View taken from the Pjdge (5510 m. ; 18,078 f.) dividing the Eastern Depression of Tres Cruces to the North from the Eastern Depression of Lagunas Verdes to the South . Plate XXXIII. 661 Mount Tres Quebradas (6040 m. ; 18,917 f.), from the East. Argentine landmark No. 9. Plate XXXIV. 661 The Western Eidges of the Cordillera de los Andes, from Pass Come-Caballo (4375 m.; 14,355 f.). Argentine landmark No. 21 Fig. 1, Plate XXXV. 661 The Main Chain of the Cordillera de los Andes, from Mount Baboso to Mount Tres Mogotes, from the High Plateau of Baboso (3740 m. ; 12,271 f.) Fig. 2, Plate XXXV. 661 The Western Eidges of the Cordillera, from the Gap Eincon de la Flecha (4750 m. ; 15,586 f.). Argentine landmark No. 34 . . . . . . 663 Pass Vacas Heladas (4955 m. ; 16,256 f.). Argentine landmark No. 54 (From a Photo- graph of the Chilian Boundary Commission) ...... 664 Tortolas Gap (4883 m. ; 16,020 f.). Argentine landmark No. 56. (From a Photograph of the Chilian Boundary Commission) ....... 665 Mount Tortolas (6133 m. ; 20,121 f.), from the south of Lagunita Gap. Argentine landmark No. 57 . . ....... .066 Valle Hermoso Gap (3577 m. ; 11,736 f.). Argentine landmark No. 114 Plate XXXVI. 667 The Main Chain from the South of the Lagunita Gap (4842 m. ; 15,886 f.). Argentine landmark No. 58 ........ 667 The Main Chain of the Cordillera at the Commencement of the Eidge of Olivares . 668 Aqua Negra Gap (4800 m. ; 15,748 ft.). Argentine landmark No. 60 669 / xxxvi Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. PAGE Plate XL. 675 ■ 675 ■ 676 °late XLI. 676 Mount Mercedario and Mercedario Pass (4025 m. ; 13,206 f.). Argentine landmark No. 108 670 Mount Alma Negra del Mercedario ....... 671 Mount Cencerro and Cencerro Gap (3945rn.; 12,9-44 f.). Argentine landmark No. 109 . 672 View of the Main Chaw of the Cordillera, from the River Mendoza or Cuevas Plate XXXVU . 672 Mat — John Miers, 1826. (From Travels in Chile and La Hata) .... 673 Quebrada Honda Gap, looking to N.E. (4295 m. ; 14,085 ft.). Argentine landmark No. 115 674 Las Pircas Gap (4898 m.; 16,070 1'.), from the Argentine side. Argentine landmark No. 128 Plate XXXVIII. 675 Las Pircas Gap (4898 m. ; 10,070 f), from the Chilian side. Argentine landmark No. 128 Plate XXXIX. 675 Main Chain of the Cordillera de Los Andes, showing Mounts Chimbote and Polleras. Argentine landmarks Nos. 130 and 131 ..... The Main Chain of the Cordillera, from Los Patos Valley Morado Gap (5070 m. ; 16,636 f.). Argentine landmark No. 129 TuruNGATO Gap (4800 m. ; 19,029 f.). Argentine landmark No. 132 The High Lava Plateau of Maipu Volcano (5331 m. ; 17,490 f.), and the Main Ridge to the South Plate XLII. 676 Sources of River Cauquencito at Molina Gap (4320 m. ; 14,173 f.). Argentine landmark No. 157. (From a Photograph of the Chilian Boundary Commission) Plate XLIII. 677 Las Lenas Gap (4010 m.; 13,156 f.), Argentine landmark No. 159. (From a Photograph of the Chilian Boundary Commission) ...... Plate XLIV. 677 The Main Chain of the Andes at Las Lenas Gap (4010 m. ; 13,156 f.). Argentine land- mark No. 159. (From a Photograph of the Chilian Boundary Commission) Plate XL V. 677 Laguna Diamante, and the Main Ridge of the Cordillera to the north of Maipu Volcano . 677 Lacunas Gap (3940 m. ; 9514 f.) 678 The Main Chain of the Cordillera de los Andes, from Mount Santa-Helena to Mount I'lteroa. Argentine landmarks Nos. 162 to 170. (Photograph taken from the East) Fig. 1, Plate XLVI. 678 The Bifurcation of the Cordillera de los Andes . . Fig. 2, Plate XLVI. 678 Pass of Las Damas, in the Main Chain of the Cordillera (2900 in. ; 9514 f.) Argentine landmark No. 161 . . . . . . . . .679 The Main Chain of the Cordillera in the Cajon of the River Maulf, . . 6S0 List of Illustrations. xxxvii Glacier of Mount Pulul (2715 m. ; 8907 f.), in the Bifurcation of the Cordillera. From the sources of the Yumuyumu stream ..... Plate XL VII. 6S1 Mount Coloco (2044 m.; 6707 f.), from Mount Uriburu (2146 m. ; 7041 f.). Plate XLVIII. 681 Las Diucas Gap (1950 m. ; 6398 f.). Argentine landmark No. 216 ... 681 Pichachen Pass, in the Main Chain of the Cordillera de los Andes (2018 m. ; 6621 f.). Argentine landmark No. 228 ........ 682 Volcano Lanin (3774 m. ; 12,383 f.), from the West . . . Plate XLIX. 683 Colpulhue Gap (2073 m. ; 6802 f.). Argentine landmark No. 230 . . . . 683 Mounts Quinquilil (2218 m.; 7277 f.) and Pocolpen (2077 m. ; 6815 f.), from the West Plate L. 684 View of some Regions to the East of Lake Lacak . . Fig. 1, Plate LI. 688 Panorama of the Cordillera de los Andes, from a hill to the North of the Western part of Lake la Plata. (Height, between 1700 and 2200 m. ; 5578 and 7218 f). Fig. 2, Plate LI. 688 Cordillera de los Andes, from Mount Perihueico . . . Plate LII. 690 Cordillera de los Andes. Panorama from the Eastern Slope of Mount Acol (1960 m. ; 6431 ft.) ....... Plate LIII 690 Gorge of Eiver Huahum, Eidges of Mounts Maeihuen and Acol, and Eidge of Ipela, from the East ....... Plate LIV. 690 Main Chain of the Cordillera de los .Andes (Eidge of Ipela), from the East (2260 m. ; 7415 ft.) ....... Fig. 1, Plate LV. 690 Main Chain of the Cordillera de los Andes (Eidge of Ipela), from the East Fig. 2, Plate L V. 690 Bed of the Former Eiver from Lake Lacar towards Lake Lolog, at Quilanlahue Plate LVI. 691 Mount Chapelco (2364 m.; 7756 f.), showing the stream Calfuco running to the West, and to the East the Chapelco Stream .... Fig. 1, Plate LVII. 693 Continental Divide at Quilquihue (797 m. ; 2615 f.) . . Fig. 2, Plate LVII. 693 Map— Dr. Hassenstein, 1893. (From Petermann's Mitteilungen, 1893) . Plate LV III. 696 Cerro del Perro (1050 m. 3445 f.) ....... 706 Map from Sheets E 2 and E 3 of the 1 : 50,000 Map of the Turko-Greek Boundary Com- mission, showing the Kritzovali (Eourtsiovali) depression .... 710 Map from Sheet E 2 of the Turko-Greek Boundary Commission Map, showing the Lake Nezeros District ......... 711 XXXV111 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. PAGE Map — Turko-Greek Frontier ........ 712 Map — Transylvanian Alps and the Aluta . . . . . . .715 Map — The Spol and the Val di Livigno ....... 717 Map— Boundary between Bulgaria and Eastern Roumelia .... 718 MAr — Boundary between Sweden and Norway .... 719 Map — The Tian Shan Kange ..... Map— Jorge Brondsted, 1893 (Buenos Aires) Lake Lacar, showing some cultivated lands existing in 1896, at Curuhuinca village, where San Martin de los Andes has been founded .... Plate LIX. Map — Jorge J. Rohde, 1889. (From Mapa de los territorios del Limay y Neuquen, etc.) . ruERTO Blest, in Lake Nahuel-Huapi ....... Mount Tronador (3400 m. ; 11,155 f.) and the River Peulla. Argentine landmark No. 282 Bariloche Gap, from South- West to North-East, and Lake Christie Panorama of Lake Nahuel-Huapi, from Peninsula de San Tadeo . . Plate LA'. Lake Vidal Gormaz and the Main Chain of the Andes, to the West of Mount Catedral Plate LA'I. Bariloche Gap, from the East, and Lake Felipe ...... Northern Part of Lake Mascardi and Mount Tronador ..... Western Part of Lake Mascardi ........ Lake Vidal Gormaz, from the North, showing in the distance the Main Chain of the Andes Lake Hess and Mount Tronador ........ Swamps between Lakes Mascardi and Hess ...... The Alluvial Fan between Lakes Gutierrez and Mascardi . . Plate LA'II. Map — Sketch of the Region between Lakes Mascardi and Nahuel-Huapi . . 7 Sketch of the Region where River Manso takes its Rise. By the Seventh Chilian Boundary Sub-Commission, Santiago, 1898 ..... Plate LXLLI. 756 Mounts Partido and Fuerte, from the South of the Outlet of Lake Vidal Gormaz . . 757 The River Manso and the VivoRAS Stream — S.S.W. of Mount Ventisquero in the Main Chain .......... 758 The River Manso, towards the North-West, and Mounts Quemado and Santa Helena . 759 720 730 733 '734 741 742 746 746 747 747 748 749 750 751 752 753 54 List of Illustrations. xxxix PAGE The River Manso and Mount Ventisquero (2100 m. ; 6890 f.), in the Main Chain . 760 Panorama taken from the Summit of Mount Colorado (2000 m. ; 6562 f.), in the" Pre- Cordillera ........ Plate LXIV. 761 The Eiver Manso in the Narrows ....... 761 Lake Inferior of River Puelo, to the West ...... 764 The Valle Nuevo. View toward the North. (Reproduction of Plate IV. from "Viages y estudios en la Region Hidrografica del Rio Puelo," by Dr. Juan Steffen, Santiago, 1898) Fig. 1, Plate LXV. 764 Snowy Mountain Massives which Bound Valle Nuevo toward the West. (Reproduction of Plate VII. from "Viages y estudios en la Region Hidrografica del Rio Puelo," by Dr. Juan Steffen, Santiago, 1898) .... Fig. 2, Plate LXV. 764 Outlet of Lake Puelo and Main Chain of the Andes . . . Plate LXVI. 765 Panorama taken from the North of the Apichig Opening, showing the small Ridge of Apichig, the Valley from where descend Rivers Maiten and ViEegas, and to the West the Main Chain of the Andes, preceded by the Prolongation of the Serrucho Ridge. Plate LXVII. 766 The Plain of Cholila and Maiten, from Caquel Huincul . Fig. 1, Plate LXVIII. 773 Panorama, from Mount 30 De Marzo . . . Fig. 2, Plate LXVIII. 773 River Bodudahue and the Cordillera ....... 781 River Bodudahue, to the W.N.W. (From a Photograph taken near the gap in the Main Chain) .......... 782 Gap in the Main Chain (1072 m. ; 3817 f.), between the Sources of Rivers Bodudahue and Navarro, to the South-West. Argentine landmark No. 288 .... 783 The Cordillera, from Mount Trepado (2400 m. ; 7874 f.) . . . . . 784 Main Chain of the Andes, showing Mounts Anexo and Tres Picos from the River Tigre 785 Main Chain of the Andes. Mounts Alto, Anexo and Tres Picos. The River Tigre at the Confluence of Rivers 1 and 2 . . . . . . . 786 Lake Renihue to the East, from the Valley Torrentes. Mount Piramides at the end. Fig. 1, Plate LXIX. 786 Lake Renihue to the East, and the Main Chain . . . Fig. 2, Plate LXIX. 786 Panorama from Navarro Gap (1000 m. ; 3281 f.) Argentine landmark No. 289. Fig. 1, Plate LXX. 787 Panorama taken from Peladito Hill (1340 m. ; 4396 f.), and. showing the Valley of Cholila (680 m.; 2231 f.) . . . . . Fig. 2, Plate LXX. 787 Lake Stange, from the South towards N.W. and N. . . Fig. 1, Plate LXXI. 787 xl Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. Lake Kruger, from E. to W., showing at the end the Depression containing Lake Stange. Fig. 2, Plate LXXI. 787 Mountains to the South-west of Mount Subir (Pico Bayo and Feroz) and the Pjver Tigre 787 The River Tigre, to the West, and Mounts Chato and Dos Picos in the Main Chain of the Andes ....... The Main Chain, from Cruz Gap to the North-west Photograph taken from the Los Alerces Gap to the West The Main Chain of the Andes between Eivers Benihue and Alerces The Valley of La Cruz, from the Gap of the same name to the East Mount Las Torrecillas, from Isla Grande .... The Main Chain of the Andes, 43° 18' S. lat. Mount Espolon, 43° 13' S. lat. ; at the Main Chain of the Andes . The Narrows of the Fetaleufu, where the Argentine Boundary Line passes The Eiver Fetaleufu at the Narrows ..... 788 789 790 791 792 •793 794 795 796 797, 798 The Sunica-Paria Fluvio-Glacial Plains . The Plain of Esguel and Temenhuao Stream Fig. 1, Plate LXXI I. 806 Fig. 2, Plate LXXII. 806 The Opening of Esguel and the Transversal Depression Esguel-Tecka, from the Opening of Nahuelpan ...... Fig. 1, Plate LXXIII. 807 The Bed of the Dried-up Lake of Corintos, now called "Pampas de Corintos," and its Terraces . . . . . . . Fig. 2, Plate LXXIII. 807 The Pampa of Corintos, from the South Fig. 1, Plate LXXIV. 811 Valley 16 de Octubre, to the West, from Peladito Hill to Valley Carrenleufu. Photograph taken from Eiver Percey (500 m. ; 1640 f.) . . . Fig. 2, Plate LXXIV. 811 Mount Situacion, from one of the Farms in the Colony of 16 de Octubre 812 Lake Eosario and the First Eidges of the Cordillera de los Andes, to the West Plate LXXV. 814 A Farm in Colony 16 de Octubre ........ 817 Sketch showing the First Settlers in the Valley 16 de Octubre Serrano Montaner, 1898. (From Limites con la Eepiiblica Argentina, Santiago) Map— Dr. Hans Steffen, 1895. (From Das Thai des Eio Palena-Carrileufu) 819 827 831 List of Illustrations. xli Plate LXXVI. 837 ■ 837 • 838 Plate LXXVII. 838 South of Valley 16 de Octobre, and its Southern Prolongation in the Valley of the Carren-leufu . . . Mount Serrano, from the Eiver Carrenleufu to the S.W. River Carren-leufu, flowing from Lake Paz Cordillera de los Andes to the West of Lake Paz Lake Paz and the Eastern Eidges of the Cordillera de los Andes, to the North of the Lake ........ Plate LXXVI I I. 838 Eiver Carren-leufu. Eastern Ridge of the Cordillera to the North-West of the Outlet of Lake General Paz ...... . Plate LXXIX. 839 Lake General Paz and the First Spur of the Cordillera, from the East Plate, LXXX. 839 River Carren-Leufu, before entering the Eastern Eidges of the Cordillera . Plate LXXXL 839 Valley of the Carren-leufu, where the river changes its course towards the West before entering the Cordillera ..... Plate LXXXII. 839 Lake Paz, The Eastern Fluvio-Glacial Plain, and the First Spurs of the Cordillera . 840 Panoramic View of Pampa Grande (760 m. ; 2493 f.) . . Plate LXXXIII. 841 Eiver Carren-leufu, before entering the Cordillera, and the Eidge of Mount Cuche . 841 Catango Hills, from the Eastern bend of the Eiver Carren-Leufu. Fig. 1, Plate LXXXIV. 842 The Plain to toe East of the Eiver Carren-leufu, showing that Eiver and the Catango Hills . . . . . . .Fig. 2, Plate LXXXIV. 842 The Continental Divide at, and to the West of, the Diablo Hill . Plate LXXXV. 842 La Piedra, Rising Ground (1150 m. ; 3775 f.) . . . Plate LXXXVI. 843 The Putrachoique and the Tepuel Hills, from the Plain to the South of Nirehuao Stream Plate LXXXVII. 843 Map — Musters, 1S71. (From at Home with the Patagonians) .... 850 Waterfall in the Eiver Cisnes ........ 851 The Tecka Valley and the Quichaura Eidge, from the East Fig. 1, Plate LXXXVIII. 860 La Piedra and Diablo Hills .... Fig. 2, Plate LXXXVIII. 860 Panorama from Nirehuao Stream .... Fig. 1, Plate LXXXIX. 861 View of Tepuel Hills, from Nirehuao Stream . . Fig. 2, Plate LXXXIX. 861 Continental Divide, between Eiver Pico and Cherque Stream (815 m. ; 2674 f.). (Photograph taken from the Plain of Cherque) .... Fig. 1, Plate XC. 861 xlii Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. The Region of the Continental Divide, from the Terraces to the East of River Pico Fig. 2, Plate XC. 861 Continental Divide in the Cherque Plain . . . Fig. 1, Plate XCI. 862 River Pico, in the Valley of the General Tableland . . Fig. 2, Plate XCI. 862 The Plain of the Continental Divide, from the South-East of River Pico Fig. 1, Plate XCII. 862 The Plain to the West of the Continental Divide, at River Pico Fig. 2, Plate XCII. 862 Divide between Rivers Frias and Pico, from the West . . . Plate XCI II. 863 Region to the West of the Continental Divide. Upper Valleys of Rivers Pico and Frias Fig. 1, Plate XCIV. 863 Lake Azul, seen from the East ..... Fig. 2, Plate XCIV. 863 The Top of "Loma Baguales," or Continental Divide Tableland . Fig. 1, Plate XCV. 863 Eastern Ridges of the Cordillera de los Andes, from River Frias Fig. 2, Plate XCV. 863 The Region to the West of the Continental Divide. Valley of River Pico Fig. 1, Plate XCVI. 864 Tableland where River Frias Originates .... Fig. 2, Plate XCVI. 864 Caceres Hill, from the North- West. ....... 864 Origins of the South-Eastern Arm of the River Frias, in the Pre-Cordillera . . 865 The Valley of Temenhuao Stream : Ancient Bed of a River Outlet of the Lake Pico before the Cutting of the Main Chain. View to the West ..... 866 The Plains of TnE Continental Divide, to the South of Cherque Stream Fig. 1, Plate XCVII. 866 The Continental Divide Plain ..... Fig. 2, Plate XCVII. 866 Continental Divide. Sources of the Streams Temenhuao and Omkel Fig. 1, Plate XCVIII. 866 Omkel Stream, and the Moraines which border it . . Fig. 2, Plate XCVIII. 866 The Morainic Terraces in the Continental Divide . . Fig. 1, Plate XCIX. 866 The Plains of the Continental Divide, between Omkel and Appeleg Streams and River Frias . . . . . . . Fig. 2, Plate XCIX. 866 Plain of the Continental Divide (880 m. ; 2887 f.) . . Fig. 1, Plate C. 867 The Continental Divide in a Depression of the Plain between the Sources of River Frfas and of Appeleg Stream ..... Fig. 2, Plate C. 867 The Continental Divide between Tributaries of the Appeleg Stream and of the River Frias. Fig. 1, Plate CI. 867 The Great Bend of TnE River FrIas, to the West . . . Fig. 2, Plate CI. 867 List of Illustrations. xliii PAGE . . 867 fig. 1, Plate OIL 867 fig. 2, Plate OIL 867 Temenhuao Stream. View to the East .... The Continental Divide, from the Terrace West of Eiver Frfas Valley of Eiver Frias, from the South .... The Eastern Spues of the Cordilleea, from the Longitudinal Depression to the West of the Continental Divide ..... Fig. 1, Plate CIII. 870 Panoeama from the Easteen Longitudinal Depression (Valley of Eiver Pico). The Eastern Spurs and the First Eidges of the Cordillera de los Andes . Fig. 2, Plate CIII. 870 The Eastern Spurs of the Cordillera, from La-ke No. 4, to the North-West Fig. 1, Plate CIV. 870 The Eastern Eidge of the Cordillera de los Andes, from near the Summit of Mount Botella . , . . . . Fig. 2, Plate CIV. 870 Panorama of the Cordillera, from a Summit of 1930 Metres (6332 f.) to the N.W. of Mount Boteila ...... Fig. 1, Plate CV. 870 Eiver Pico, penetrating the First Eidges of the Cordillera de los Andes, to the West. Fig. 2. Plate CV. 870 Mounts Cacique Blanco, Azucar and Magdalena, in the Eastern Eidge of the Cordillera, from the Eastern Plains ...... Plate CVI 870 Mount Pan de Azucar, from the South. Eiver Frias ..... 871. Diagram — The Argentine ' Line in the Main Chain of the Andes (landmarks Nos. 290 to 298); and The Chilian Line in the Continental Divide (landmarks Nos. 298 to 310) 872 The Cordillera de los Andes, from North-East to West, showing the Transversal depression of Eiver Frias or Cisnes ..... Fig. 1, Plate CVII. 875 Lake La Plata, and the Transversal depression between the Cordillera%nd the Pre-Cordillera to the South of the Lake ..... Fig. 2, Plate CVII. 875 Lakes Fontana and La Plata ...... Plate Will. 875 Eapid of the Chilote (Eiver Aisen) ....... 881 The Eastern Eidge of the Cordillera, from the Hills to the East of the Eiver Manihuales 8S2 The Plain of the Continental Divide, to the South-east, from Mount Katterfeld . . 887 The Edge of the Tableland at Cantaush .... The Plains of Coyet and Goichel, from a Basaltic Crag at the Northern Tableland Fig. 1, Plate CIA'. 889 The Bend of Eiver Goichel and the Plains of Coyet, from the North- West to the South- West, where the Chilian Expert locates the Main Chain of the Andes (Chilian landmark No. 314, at the Continental Divide) .... Fig. 2, Plate CIX. 889 xliv Divergences in tlie Cordillera de los Andes. PAGE The First Ridge of the Cordillera in the Upper Aisen Region, from the South-West of Mount Katterfeld ....... Plate CX. 889 The Depression of Coyet, seen from Cantaush ...... 889 The Western Edge of the Tableland, between Rivers Aisen and Coyaiken Fig. 1, Plate CXI. . 890 The Valley of River Goichel, Pre-Cordillera and the Eastern Ridge of the Cordillera from Richard's Farm . . . . . Fig. 2, Plate CXI. 890 The Continental Divide, at the Valley of River Mayo. Sources of Rivers Mayo and Coyaiken ........ Plate CXII. 892 The Depression of Lacuna Blanca. Continental Divide . . Fig. 1, Plate CXIII. 893 Valley of the Upper Aisen, in the Depression of Laguna Blanca . Fig. 2, Plate CXIII. 893 Panorama of the Valley of River Aisen, Western Region, from a Point N.W. of Lake Elizalde ........ Plate CXIV. 893 Valley of the Southern Branch of Upper Aisen, to the West of the Continental Divide and to the East of Lake Elizalde .... Fig. 1, Plate CXV. 893 Hills to the West of the Valley of Upper Aisen . . Fig. 2, Plate CXV. 893 The Cordillera de los Andes, to the West of the River Maiiihuales . . 895-898 The Tableland between Rivers Mayo and Coyaiken, where the Continental Divide occurs, and the Depression of the Upper River Aisen . . Fig. 1, Plate CXVI. 901 Valley of Lake Buenos A»es.— A Morainic Landscape at River Fenix Fig. 2, Plate CXVI. 901 Transversal Section between the Pre-Cordillera and the Tableland in the Aisen Region 902 The Ditch of the River Fenix, as it appeared in April 1898 . . . .908 Diagrammatic Transversal Section of the Patagonian Tableland . . . 909 Diagrammatic Section of the Transversal Valleys Excavated in the Tableland of Patagonia .......... 909 Moraines of the River Fenix, to the West of the Continental Divide . . .910 River Fenix and its Valley, to the West of the Pretended Continental Divide Plate CXVII. 910 Valley and River Fenix at the Bend of Paeiaiken, where the Chilian Experts Locate the Highest Crest of the Andes that Divide the Waters . . . Plate CXVIII. 910 List of Illustrations. xlv PAGE Lake Buenos Aires, to the W.N.W. ....... 912 Moraines of the Valley of Eiver Fenix, and the Southern Tableland Capped with Lava Fig. 1, Plate CXIX. 912 Eastern Part of Lake Buenos Aires, showing the Ancient Atlantic Outlet Fig. 2, Plate CXIX. 912 The Cordillera de los Andes, and the North-Western Part of the Basin of Lake Buenos Aires. (From Mount Ap Ywan) .... Fig. 1, Plate CXX. 913 Lake Buenos Aires, from the South Lake Buenos Aires, to the West The Outlet of Lake Buenos Aires into Lake Soler The Pre-Cordillera, to the West of Eiver Jeinemeni Fig. 2, Plate CXX. 913 914, 915 . 916 Fig. 1, Plate CXX I. 916 The Longitudinal Depression, between the Pre-Cordillera and the Tableland to the South of Lake Buenos Aires ...... Fig. 2, Plate CXXI. 916 The Tableland Capped with Lava, to the South of Lake Buenos Aires. Fig. 1, Plate CXXII. 917 The Longitudinal Depression between the Pre-Cordillera and the Tableland, to the North of Lake Belgrano and to the West of Mount Belgrano Fig. 2, Plate CXXII. 917 The Depression between the Pre-Cordillera and the Tableland .... 917 Embankment and Glacier Bed, showing the retirement of the Water of the Lake Buenos Aires as erosion progressed from the West, changing its drainage . . . 920 The Patagonian Tableland and the Canyons of Chakcana and Ecker Fig. 1, Plate CXXIII. 923 The Depression of Gio, from the Canyon of Ecker till the South-East of Gorro de Poivre. Mount Colorado is not visible on the West, as it is covered with clouds Fig. 2, Plate CXXIII. 923 Confluence of the Eivers Tamango and Las Heras ..... 924 The Depression of Gio, as seen from the Northern Volcanic Tableland Fig. 1, Plate CXXIV. 924 Panorama of the General Tableland, taken from the Upper Course of Olnie Stream Fig. 2, Plate CXXIV. 924 Panorama of the Northern Eegion of Lake Pueyrredon . . Fig. 1, Plate CXXV. 925 Lake Pueyrredon to the South and West, with Eiver Las Heras and Lake Negro Fig. 2, Plate CXXV. 925 g 2 xlvi Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. PAGE The Region of the Lakes Negro, Sorpresa and Azul, to the West of Lake Pueyrredon Fig. 1, Plate CXXVI. 925 River Las Heras, between the Confluences of Biver Tamango and Biver Pueyrredon Fig. 2, Plate CXXVI. 925 Mount Las Heras, in Calen Inlet, to the West of the Outlet of the Eiver Las Heras . 925 Mouth of the Eiver Las Heras, in Calen Inlet . . . ... . 926 Eastern Part of Lake Belgrano, showing the Fluvio-Glacial Plains, the Ancient Outlet to the East, and the General Patagonian Tableland . . Fig. 1, Plate C XXVII. 927 Lake Nansen and the Eastern Bidge of the Cordillera . . Fig. 2, Plate C'XXVII. 927 The Eastern Bidges of the Cordillera de los Andes, to the West of the Biver Las Heras 927 Patagonian Tableland, between the Biver Chico and Olnie Stream . . . 928 Lake Belgrano (760 m. ; 2493 f.) . . . . Fig. 1, Plate C XXVIII. 929 The Dried-up Lake to the East of Biver Mayer, where the Continental Divide is produced Fig. 2, Plate CXXVIII. 929 Recent Drainage of Lake Belgrano into Lake Azara ..... 930 Lake Azara, and the Cordillera to the West ...... 931 Eastern Part of the Pre-Cordillera, and Western Part of the Tableland at the Upper Valley of Eiver Mayer ..... 'Fig. 1, Plate CXXIX. 933 The Pre-Cordillera, from the Confluence of Bivers Mayer and Nansen Fig. 2, Plate CXXIX. 933 Fluvio-Glacial Drift at the Biver Mayer ...... 933 Depression between the Cordillera and the Pre-Cordillera, through which the Eiver Mayer flows into the Eastern Arm of Lake San Martin .... 934 Eastern Ridge of the Cordillera to the West of Eiver Mayer Fig. 1, Plate CXXX. 934 The Lava Tableland between Eiver Chico and Lake San Martin Fig. 2, Plate CXXX. 934 The Outlet of Lake San Martin, at its commencement ..... 935 The Outlet of Lake San Martin, in the Eiver Toro, and the Cordillera to the West . 936 South-Western Part of the Outlet of Lake San Martin, from the East . . .937 Rapids of the Eiver Toro, Outlet of Lake San Martin ..... 938 List of Illustrations. xlvii Lava Beds between the Eiver Mayer and Lake San Martin .... Lake San Martin to the East, and its adjacent outlet in that direction Fig. 1, Plate CXXXI. Western Part of Lake San Martin .... Fig. 2, Plate CXXXI. Kochaik Hill ........ The Ancient Outlet to the East of Lake San Martin . Mount Fitz-Eoy (3370 m.; 11,057 f.) Mount Campana, in the Cordillera to the West of Lake Viedma . Eastern Spurs of Mount Agassiz ...... Mount Heim (2450 m. ; 8038 f.), from the Northern Arm of Lake Argentino Glacier of Lake Viedma ....... Glacier in the Western Arm of Lake Argentino Mount Norte (2950 m; 9679 f.), South- West of Lake Viedma South-Western Part of Lake Argentino, showing the Eastern Kidge of the Cordillera and the Glacier, the Branches of which are Tributaries to the Atlantic and to the Pacific Plate CXXXII. Eastern Slope of the Andes at Lake Argentino Plate CXXXIII. The Front of the Glacier, in the Western Arm of Lake Argentino Eegion of the Continental Divide, to the South-East of the Eiver Vizcachas The Glacial Drift, in the Depression of the Eiver Coile to the East of Vizcachas . Eegion of the Continental Divide, in the Transversal Depression of the Eiver Coile The Eiver Vizcachas ........ Bend of the Eiver Vizcachas, at the Continental Divide .... Moraines at the Continental Divide, to the East of the Eiver Vizcachas Basaltic Cliff in Vizcachas Tableland ...... Eegion of the Continental Divide, to the East of the Eiver Vizcachas . Waterfall of the Eiver Paine ....... PAGE OSS 939 93 939 939 940 941 942 943 944 945 962 962 963 963 966 966 967 967 968 I 968 969 969 970 xlviii Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. PAGE Mount Paine, from the East .....••• 971 Lake Hauthal and the Eastern Ridge of the Cordillera de los Andes ■ Plate, CXXXIV. 971 Panoramic View from River Zamora at 51° S. Lat. . Fig. 1, Plate CXXXV. 973 Lake Maravilla, from the East .... Fig. 2, Plate CXXXV. 973 The Eastern Ridges of the Cordillera, from the Summit of Contreras Ridge Fig. 1, Plate CXXXVI. 973 The Eastern Ridges of the Cordillera and the Pre-Cordillera, to the West of Contreras Ridge ...... Fig. 2, Plate CXXXVI. 973 Consuelo Cove, in Last Hope Inlet Lake Pinto, cut by Parallel 52° South Latitude View from the Plains to the West of Lake Maravilla North-East Coast of Last Hope Inlet Fig. 1, Plate CXXXVII. 973 Fig. 2, Plate CXXXVII. 973 . 973 . 974 Panoramic View taken immediately to the East of the Bend of River Vizcachas Plate CXXXVII! 975 Basaltic Lava to the South-East of Vizcachas Table-Hill .... 975 Ballena Hill and the Eastern Moraines of Lake Maravilla .... 977 The Tableland to the South-West of River Santa Cruz .... 978 Baguales Ridge, from the Plains of the Continental Divide at the North-West Edge of Latorre Tableland ...... Plate CXXXIX. 979 The Tableland between Lake Argentino and River Vizcachas .... 979 Moraine to the South-East of River Vizcachas ...... 980 The Tableland between River Coile and River Santa Cruz, to the West . . 981 Panorama from Dorotea Hill ...... Plate CXL. 983 The Eastern Coast of Disappointment Bay, showing the Mountains of the Pre-Cordillera to the West of the Bay ........ 983 Mount Aymond, a point of the Line agreed to in 1881 in order to leave within Chilian Territory the Coasts of the Magellan Straits ...... 988 Map— Argentine-Chilian Boundary Line, settled according to the Treaties of 1881 and 1893 990 List of Illustrations. xlix FAGK Map — Argentine Proposed Boundary Line in the Neighbourhood of Parallel 52°, according to the Treaty of 1893 . . . . . . '.till Sections No. 1 to No. 100—23° S. Lat. to 51° 45' S. Lat. . . . 996-1038 Panorama from the South of Vega de los Patos . . . Plate CXLI. 1047 Map — From General Map of the North-Western Part of the Dominion of Canada. (Published by Authority of the Hon. Clifford Lifton, Minister of the Interior, December 1898) ......... 1091 MAPS I. to XIV In a Case Errata. Frontispiece, for Fupungato read Tupungato I, line 19, for the Eoyal Order of 1693 addressed read the order addressed 4 „ 29, for Viceroy Vertiz read Viceroys Vertiz and Marques de Loreto 27, for years read months 2, for says he came read came in 1551 9, for This clear distinction read The definition of the Cordillera 21, for southern read northern L84, 2nd line from foot, /or 1880 read 1885 584, line 9, for 5703 read 5763. (The feet are rightly indicated.) 10, for 4862 read 14,862 3, for 7730 read 7130. (The feet are rightly indicated.) 5, for 2075 metres (6808 feet) read 2156 metres (7073 feet) 9th and 8th lines from foot, for 800 metres (2625 feet) read 797 metres (2G15 feet) 7 "i — , 5th line from foot, for 781 metres (2562 feet) read 785 metres (2575 feet) 758, 3rd line from foot, for 1160 metres (3805 feet) read 1260 metres (4134 feet) 762, 9th line from foot, for 2400 metres (7874 feet) read 2600 metres (8530 feet) line 5, for north read east 814, lines 17 and 18, for 1640 metres (5381 feet) read 1940 metivs (6365 feet) 841, line 1,/or 1800 metres (5906 feet) read 760 metres (21H3 feet) 11 12 27 .ill 660 668 683 706, Page 842, 6th line from foot, for 1325 and 1270 metres (4347 and 4167 feet) read 1025 and 1240 metres (3362 and 4068 feet) 861, line 17, for Nirehuao read Nirehuao 866, line 3, for 950 metres (3120 feet) read % 1322 metres (4337 feet) 878, 7th line from foot, for 1096 metres (3596 feet) read 1296 metres (4252 feet) 920, line 7, for 2070 metres (6791 feet) read 2320 metres (7612 feet) 921, line 3, for 196 read 190. (The feet are rightly indicated.) 942, 7th line from foot, for 3250 metres (10,663 feet) read 3170 metres (10,400 feet) 942, 6th line from foot, for 2020 metres (6627 feet) read 2380 metres (7809 feet) 942, same line, for 2700 metres (8858 feet) read 2450 metres (8038 feet) 996, Section No. 1, and 11th and 5th lines from foot, for Zapalari read Sapalleri '.''.is, Section No. 5, for 24° 30' read 24° 24' 999 „ „ 6, for Sooompa read Socompa Carpis 1003 „ „ 14, for Amillaco read Anillaco 1005 „ „ 17, join lines indicating Mt. Turo 1006 „ „ 19 „ „ Mt. T6rtolas 1006 „ „ 20 „ „ Mt. Volcan 1008 „ „ 2:: „ „ Mt. Paeon 1009 „ „ 26 „ „ Mt. Aconcagua 1013 „ „ ::7 „ „ Mt. I'ayen 1016 „ „ 45 „ „ Mt. Lanin Argentine-Chilian Boundary Arbitration. DIVEEGENCES IN THE CORDILLEBA DE LOS ANDES. ARGENTINE EVIDENCE. CHAPTER I. Summary — 1. The Boundary during Spanish Colonial Period. 2. The Boundary after the Emancipation. 1. THE BOUNDARY DURING SPANISH COLONIAL PERIOD. The Argentine Republic and Chile inherited from Spain the territories which they possess. The divergences upon which the Arbitrator is to decide are those which have arisen in tracing the arcifinious boundary in the Cordillera Nevada, by which Spain divided her two great southern Provinces of America. The narrative of the first colonial utterances concerning this boundary is the more complete demonstration of the Argentine rights as well as of the incon- sistency of the affirmations made in the Chilian statement with respect to it. The Representative of Chile has stated to the Tribunal :— " The year 1561 is the first occasion on which the authorities, dependent from the Crown of Spain, are known to have referred to the Cordillera of the Andes as a frontier in an official document. In the Deed of foundation of the City of Mendoza, when appointing its jurisdiction over the province of that name, Don Pedro del Castillo used the following words : ' A la cual doi por terminos i jurisdiccion con mero mixto imperio desde la Gran Cordillera Nevada, aguas vertientes a la mar del Norte.' " With this single document in view, the Chilian Representative has inferred that the rule observed during the colonial times was that of the continental B Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. water-divide. A perusal of it suffices, however, to prove that it does not admit of such an interpretation. The Great Snowy Cordillera is the dividing line, and it is only starting from the said Cordillera that the jurisdiction alluded to in that document extended towards the Atlantic Ocean. It is impossible to contend that if it is spoken of the " Great Snowy Cordillera" as a primary boundary, the standard of demarcation allows of departing from the snowy crests in pursuit of a variable and movable frontier in the valleys or in the plains, or in pursuit of any other than the great and snow-capped Cordillera. The Deed of foundation of the City of Mendoza was published in the Review of the Public Library of Buenos Aires,* conjointly with other official papers which explain and complete it. In order to discover its true spirit, it is well to consult all of the above documents, instead of allowing oneself to be influenced by one extract which has not the importance claimed for it. If the Members of the Tribunal will examine these papers they will find that the streams have not been taken into account, and that chief importance has been given to the imposing mass of the Cordillera. On November 22, 1560, Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendoza, Captain-General of Chile, said that, " being informed that behind the Snowy Cordillera, back of the town of Santiago, forty leagues away, from east to west, has been discovered a province called Cuyo," he appointed Don Pedro del Castillo as its Governor. The Captain-General dues not say that Cuyo is situated behind the continental water-divide: he states that it is behind the " Snowy Cordillera." It was in this capacity that Governor del Castillo founded the City of Mendoza, " on the other side of the great Snowy Cordillera," where the Province of Cuyo was situated, as is stated in the same document that the Chilian Representative has quoted. Furthermore, on September 27, 1561, the Captain-General of Chile ap- pointed Don Juan Jufre new Governor of Cuyo, designating as the boundaries ui his province " the slope of the Snowy Cordillera.'' Jufre changed the posi- tion of the town of Mendoza, gave it the name of " Resurreccion " and fixed the following limits : — " On the north side, as far as the valley known as Guanacache, and through that region of the said valley downwards, and on the south side as far as the Diamante Valley, and on the east side as far as the Ridge which connects with the Sierra of Cayo Cauta, and on the west side as far as the Snowy Cordillera^ Page 105, etc. The Boundary during Spanish Colonial Period. It is evident, therefore, that the Deed of foundation of Mendoza does not support the Chilian thesis, but on the contrary rejects it in the most formal and categorical manner. But even were the document not as explicit as it is — even did it refer to the continental water-divide, and allude to rivers flowing to the two oceans, and to the divide of their water basins ; even could all this be read into it, it would be hazardous to infer from a few words, taken from one single document, the criterion followed throughout a long period of almost three centuries. The following facts and quotations from the historical records of those centuries prove how erroneous would be such an inference. The Chilian historian Don Miguel Luis Amunategui * referring to the expedition of Diego de Almagro in a.d. 1535, states that the principal goal of his expedition was the country which extends to the western side of the Andes, and which should receive the name of Chile. The Inca Manco Capac, who was preparing his great rising against the Spanish conquerors, being desirous that Almagro's forces should undertake this expedition, and in order to induce him to do so, furnished him with the most exaggerated notions concerning the wealth which could be acquired on the western side of the Cordillera. Almagro, having arrived at the " Provincia de Chile," after crossing the Cordillera de los Andes in the neighbourhood of Copiapo, undergoing the greatest privations on the journey, enquired of the " lords of the country," on the western side of the " Cordillera of the Snow (Cordillera de la Nieve) which continues to the strait," and which he had now crossed, whether he would be able to find land suitable for settlements, extending to the sea. Thus, since the very first days of the discovery of Chile by the Spaniards, the eastern boundary of the country, first as a Province of Spain and afterwards as a Republic, has been the " Cordillera of the Snow," or the " Cordillera de los Andes." The " Capitania General de Chile " had temporarily under its jurisdiction part of the " Provincia de Cuyo," as the inheritance of Pedro de Valdivia, who was authorised to govern " the other provinces which he might discover, conquer and occupy," but, as will be seen later on, according to the Kings of Spain, the historians, travellers and geographers, Chile, from the time of the conquest, has * Miguel Luis Amunategui, La Cuestion de Limites entre Chile y la Republica Argentina, Santiago, 1879, vol. 1, p. 81 et seq. B 2 Divergences in tJie Cordillera dc los Andes. been bounded on the east by the crest of the Cordillera, and had no jurisdiction to the east of this range, after the province of Cuyo was separated from that country by decree of the Sovereign. Numerous proofs that this was the case can be produced. Father Diego de Kosales, in his History of Chile * said, in 1665 : — " The Kingdom of Chile is the southern end of the wide Empire of Peru, on the coast of the South Sea It is hounded on the south by the Strait of San Vicente or Lemaire .... on the east by Tucuman, and on the west by the Pacific ; but that portion of territory which is properly called Chile, and is inhabited, extends from the Valley of Copiapo, at lat. 26° S. t,o the city of Castro in the Archipelago of Chiloe', at lat. 43° S. On the east the ' great Cordillera Nevada de los Andes girds it, and between this range and the sea, Chile's greatest breadth is thirty leagues, and its average twenty.' ' The Royal decree of the King of Spain, by which the " Vireinato del Rio de la Plata " was constituted, ordered that the said natural boundary of the crest of the Cordillera de los Andes should be the frontier line between the great southern dependencies of the Crown. King Carlos III. in 1776, confirmed by said decree that of Charles II. (dated 1684) which stated that "The Cordillera Nevada was to divide the Kingdom of Chile from the provinces of the Rio de la Plata and Tucuman," and also confirmed the Royal order of 1693 addressed to Soto-Mayor, Governor of Buenos Aires, instructing him to settle towns in Patagonia, " in the parts furthest inland, and in the lands in the interior." He also confirmed the Royal order of 1766, in which Bucareli, the Governor of Buenos Aires, was informed that the whole southern region was under his supervision. Subsequent ami numerous Acts emanating from the Spanish Sovereigns or from the Governors of Buenos Aires and Chile, show that up to 1810 " the Cordillera Nevada," that is, "the Cordillera of the Snow " of Diego de Almagro, separated the respective jurisdictions. Among other documents, the communica- tions of the Presidents of the " Capitania General de Chile," Don Ambrosio de Benavides in 1781, and Don Ambrosio O'Higgins in 1789, to Viceroy Vertiz, of Buenos Aires, show that the jurisdiction of Chile ended at the crest of the ( Jordillera. That " Cordillera de Sierras," so " rugged as to form an impassable barrier for the horses," mentioned in the expedition sent by Diego de Almagro to explore the lands situated to the east, formed the most natural boundary * Bistoria I teneral del Keyno de Chile, etc., 3 vols., Valparaiso, 1887, vol. 1, book ii. chap. i. p. 183. The Boundary after the Emancipation. between the two territories, whilst the remarkably wild features of the range made it a specially secure frontier. It soon became manifest to the statesmen of that epoch, that owing to the ruggedness, loftiness, desolation and extent of the formidable chain of mountains, the administration of the " Province of Cuyo" by the authorities of Chile was rendered impracticable, and hindered at the same time the development of its commerce, which was then restricted to that captaincy-general The situation was so difficult that the merchants themselves, who were only able to cross the Cordillera during a few months in the year, prayed the Mother Country to allow them to. transact business with the east, that is to say with Buenos Aires. Such a state of things, which was only brought about by the special circumstances connected with the conquest and colonisation, could not last, and was entirely modified by the great change effected in 1776, when it was decided that the chain of the " Cordillera Nevada" should divide those interests that had developed in opposite directions. That division and that frontier were acknowledged by the administrative authorities on both sides of the Cordillera ; they were afterwards equally recognised at the time of the Emancipation ; and finally agreed upon by binding international treaties. They are, however, those that the Chilian Expert now wishes to overthrow, and replace by a line inconsistent and unnatural, which would be certain to lead to the most serious consequences and complications. 2. THE BOUNDARY AFTER THE EMANCIPATION. The proclamation of independence made by the Congress of Tucuman on July 9, 1816, emancipated from Spain the " Provincias Unidas del Rio de la Plata" or Argentine Republic, and in 1817 General San Martin crossed the Andes with an Argentine army, and descended into Chile, to free that country also from the Spaniards. Since then both Chile and Argentine Republic have recognised the Cordillera de los Andes as their mutual and natural boundary, and the former country, after having gained independence, drew up a Constitution, which, amended from time to time, establishes the boundaries of the territories of the Republic in a clear and conclusive manner. The Constitution of 1822 says : " The territory of Chile is known by natural boundaries: — on the south, Cape Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. Horn; on the north, the Atacama Desert; on the east, the Andes; on the west, the Pacific Ocean." That of 1823 : " The territory of Chile extends from north to south, from Cape Horn to the Atacama Desert ; and from east to west, from the Cordilleras de los Amies to the Pacific Ocean." That of 1826: "The Chilian nation Its territory extends from north to south, from the Atacama Desert to Cape Horn, and from east to west, from the ( 'ordilleras de los Andes to the Pacific Ocean." That of 1828: "Its territory extends from north to south, from the Atacama Desert to Cape Horn, and from east to west. from the Cordilleras de los Andes to the Pacific Ocean." That of 18.'>:'> : "The territory of Chile extends from the Atacama Desert to Cape Horn, and from the Cordilleras de los Andes to the Pacific Ocean." There is no possible doubt concerning this fact : Chile, by the will of "her people, represented in Congress, framed a Constitution in which it is clearly established that the territory of Chile extends from the Atacama Desert to Cape Horn, and " from the Cordilleras de los Andes to the Pacific Ocean." Thus, THE WHOLE LINE OF THE CORDILLERA FROM ATACAMA TO CAPE HORN is acknow- ledged by Chile as its boundary, and only the territory comprised between the said Cordillera and the Pacific forms the Chilian nation. On the other side all the territory comprised between the Cordillera and the Atlantic belongs to the Argentine Republic. No Chilian Constitution can be found which supports the contention of the Chilian Expert that Chile has a right to territory situated between the Cordillera and the Atlantic Ocean. The veiy contrary is established in an important document signed by Chile and the Argentine Republic. On November 30, 1826, a Treaty of friendship, alliance, commerce and navigation, was signed, in which it is provided as follows : " The contracting Republics engage to guarantee the integrity of their territories and to take action against every foreign power which shall attempt to change by force the boundaries of the said Republics, as recog- nised before their emancipation, or subsequently, in virtue of special treaties." Chile in making this Treaty, evidently took into account her Constitutions of 1822, 1823 and 1826, which assigned as eastern boundary the Cordillera de los Andes. According to the terms of this Treaty, and the wording of the Chilian Constitutions, only to the Argentine Republic could appertain the territories situated between the Cordillera de los Andes and the Atlantic Ocean down to Cape Horn. The Boundary after the Emancipation. The " Cordillera de los Andes," as a natural and recognised boundary, was not only established in Spanish and Chilian documents, but also in unimpeachable official reports, such as those from Messrs. C. A. Rodney, Theoderic Bland, John Graham and T. R. Poinsett, who were sent in 1817 by the Government of the United States to investigate and report on the state of matters in the South American countries, during the Avar for their independence. Their four reports agree in giving as the boundary between Chile and the Argentine Republic, " the Cordillera de los Andes," its " crests " or the " loftiest crest of the Cordillera of the Andes." These Commissioners likewise considered that the United Provinces ofRiode la Plata, bounded on the west by the " ridge of the Andes," extended as far as Cape Horn ; and in so considering them, they based their opinion not only upon history, but also upon the information received when amongst the peoples about whom they reported.* * Eeports of Messrs. Rodney, Graham, Bland, Poinsett, and Brackenridge : — In his Report dated Washington, November 5, 1818, Mr. Rodney says: "In 1562, Chile was erected into a separate Captain-Generalship ; in 1778, a new Viceroyalty was established at Buenos Aires comprehending all the Spanish possessions to the east of the Western Cordillera, and to the south of the river Maran on." He sjJeaks always of the "late Viceroyalty of Buenos Aires," when referring to the United Provinces. From the Report of John Graham, dated Washington, November 5, 1818: — "The country formerly known as the Viceroyalty of Buenos Aires, extending from the north-west sources of the river La Plata to the Southern Cape of America, and from the confines of Brazil and the Ocean to the ridge of the Andes, may be considered as that which is called ' The United Provinces of South America.' " From the Report of Theoderic Bland, dated Baltimore, November 2, 1818 : " The new Political Union, whose Government we found seated on the shores of the river Plata, which once styled itself ' The United Provinces of the River Plata,' and which now, having been actuated by caprice, or by more correct or more enlarged views, assumes the name of ' The United Provinces of South America,' has declared the inde- pendence, and claims the privileges of self-government for all the people, and the rights of a nation over all the territory of which the late Spanish Viceroyalty of Buenos Aires was composed in the beginning of the year 1810 It will be proper, therefore, to trace out its extreme limits as the country relative to which aur enquiries are to be more particularly directed The Spanish Viceroyalty of Buenos Aires is situated to the southward of the Portuguese dominions of Brazil, and according to the Treaty of St. Ildefonso, of 1777, the following boundary between them was finally adjusted : . . . thence, nearly west, to the Sierras Altisimas ; thence, along the confines of the province of Mizque and the Altos Antinuyo, including the Province of La Paz, to the Cordilleras of the Andes which pass to the westward of Oruro and Paria, to the Cordillera Real ; thence, eouth, along the most elevated summit of the jirincipal Cordillera of the Andes, until it is intersected by the parallel of thirty-eight and a half degrees of south latitude ; thence, due east to the Atlantic ; thence, with the coast of the ocean, to the beginning, at Invernada de Felix Jose That tract of country which now forms the three provinces of Mendoza, San Juan and St. Louis, and which, under the Spanish Government, was called the province of Cuyo, was, about half a century ago, attached to the Colonial Viceroyalty of Chile ; since that time it has continually belonged to Buenos Aires And the province of Arica, which covers that space to the westward of Potosi and Chicas from the summit of the Andes down to the Pacific Ocean, was, by a royal order, about the year 1774 taken from the Viceroyalty of Buenos Aires, and annexed to that of Lower Peru, or Lima, and is at present under that jurisdiction." From the Report of J. R. Poinsett, dated Columbia, November 4, 1818 : " The kingdom of Chile is com- prised within the narrow strip of land which extends east and west fiom. the summit of the Cordilleras de los 8 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. These were the boundaries which Chile recognised as those of the United Provinces of the River Plate, when making the Treaty of 1826. Moreover, there is another document whose importance cannot be dis- regarded. It is the Treaty made by Chile with Spain on July 1, 184(5, in which Chilian independence was recognised and the transfer made to Chile of the territories previously belonging to Spain. The first article of the Treaty says: — " His Catholic Majesty, in the exercise of the power which belongs to him by decree of the General Cortes of the Kingdom, of December 4, 1836, recognises as a free, sovereign and independent nation, the Republic of Chile, composed of the countries specified in its Constitutional Act, to wit: All the territory which extends from the Desert of Atacama to Cape Horn, and from the Cordillera de los Andes to the Pacific Ocean, with the Archipelago of ( 'hiloi, and of the islands adjacent to the coast of Chile.'" This Treaty was approved by the Chilian Congress, who, in enacting the clause establishing the boundary in the Cordillera, acknowledged, in a document of such great historical importance, the traditional frontier of the country. Thus Spain only granted to Chile the territories between the Cordillera de los Andes and the Pacific Ocean, and from the Desert of Atacama to Cape Andes to the Pacific Ocean, and stretches along the coast north and soTith, from the river Salado and the Desert of Atacama to the Straits of Magellan. From the chain of frontier posts (which begin at'Arauco, on the coast, and extend to the Cordilleras) to the town of Valdivia, the country is in possession of the warlike tribe of Araucanians, who still remain independent ; and from Osorno, south, it is inhabited by the various tribes of Patagonia, whoso territories have not been explored." Mr. H. M. Brackenridge, in his Voyage to South America, performed by order of the American Govern- ment in the years 1817 and 1818, in the frigate Congress, London, 1820, says : " The country formerly known as the Viceroyalty of Buenos Aires, extending from the north-western sources of the river La Plata to the Southern Cape of America, and from the confines of Brazil and the Ocean to the ridge of the Andes, may be considered as that which is called 'The United Provinces of South America.' .... This widely extended country embraces almost every variety of climate and soil, and is capable of almost every variety of produc- tion. A large part of it, however, particularly on the west side of the river La Plata and southerly towards ( lape Horn, is deficient in wood (even for fuel), and in water — that which is found is generally brackish. (Vol. 1 , App., pp. 29-30.) Including Patagonia, the Viceroyalty of La Plata was the most important in extent of territory of any of the Spanish Governments in America La Plata stretches from the northernmost part of the Province of Moxos in twelve degrees south to Cape Horn, its extent to the Pacific between Lower Peru and Chile, in the Province of Atacama ; it is bounded by the Portuguese dominions on the north and east, and separated from Peru by the river Desaguadero or drain of Lake Titicaca: on the east it is washed by the Atlantic and on the toest separated from Chile by the Cordilleras. The only portion of this vast territory which is generally believed to be unfavourable to a numerous population, is what is called the Pampas of Buenos Aires ; the interior of Patagonia is but little known, and respecting it different opinions are entertained. .... In glancing at the map of this country, it will appear to be naturally divided into six different sections : 1. Tho part which lies on the east side of the Paraguay. 2. That which lios opposite on the west side of the same river. 3. The tract which stretches along the base of the Cordilleras. 4. The Pampas of Buenos Aires. 5. Patagonia. 0. The provinces of Upper Peru." (Vol. 2, pp. 1 and 3.) The Boundary After the Emancipation. Horn. It is not, therefore, from Spain that Chile derives the alleged right to encroach over the Cordillera Nevada, or the Cordillera de los Andes, "as would be the case should the line proposed by the Chilian Expert be accepted ; and since it is not from Spain that this alleged right is derived, there exists no foundation whatever upon which the claim to territory east of the range can be based. Whatever may be the extent of country claimed by Chile eastward of the Cordillera, it will be an usurpation of Argentine land, recognised as Argen- tine land by the Treaty of 1826 and successively by the Treaties of 1881 and 1893, where the "Cordillera de los Andes" is always spoken of as the frontier line from north to south to parallel 52°. These are the antecedents, and they prove that at the time of the Emanci- pation of both countries, there was a clearly defined boundary recognised bv Chile and the Argentine Republic as their natural frontier. The Argentine Republic had from the beginning of her new life, and as the seal of her independence, devoted attention to the regions of the south, adopt- ing a series of measures in defence of her sovereignty to the east of the summit of the Cordillera de los Andes, and for her future benefit and progress; but the unfortunate condition in which the country found itself after its independence was secured, resulting from the struggle through which it had passed in its efforts to separate from the Mother Country, and to obtain equal independence for all Spanish-speaking people south of the Equator — a struggle which no new country could sustain without seriously suffering from its effects — did not admit of special attention being paid to the delimitation of its frontiers. The nation, however, had confidence in the indisputable validity of its titles inherited from Spain. io Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. CHAPTER II. Summary — 1. Necessity of Stating what was understood as "Cordillera de los Andes." 2. Meaning of the " Cordillera de los Andes " in the Colonial Epoch. 3. Eesults derived from the Documents Quoted. 1. NECESSITY OF STATING WHAT WAS UNDERSTOOD AS "CORDILLERA DE LOS ANDES." The evidence already presented, proves that both the Argentine and the Chilian Governments agreed that the 'Cordillera de los Andes" is the dividing line between the two nations. These words " Cordillera de los Andes " have a history of their own in the Argentine Republic and in Chile, and they also express a scientific idea which it is now most important to understand clearly, as all the treaties and agreements between the Argentine and Chilian Republics determine that the frontier line shall be traced in the u Cordillera de los Andes, 11 and that the differences of opinion between the Experts must be confined to matters within the " Cordillera de los Andes" (Art. 2nd, Prof. 1893). As, moreover, the Argentine Expert maintains that the boundary line proposed by the Chilian Expert in some points lies outside of the Cordillera de los Andes, it is necessary to know what is under- stood by that term. Further, in order that the Tribunal may be able to advise with regard to the differences which have been submitted to them, it is indis- pensable that it should know what was the conception of this Cordillera held by the Government of the Argentine Republic and that of Chile, when they decided to fix the separating line between their nations in its summit. To make this point clear, the evidence on the subject will be divided as follows : — 1. Evidence belonging to the colonial epoch from its commencement to 1810. 2. Evidence dating from 1810. <3. Evidence referring to official definitions made before 1881. Illicit was understood as "Cordillera de los Andes." ir There exists an exceedingly large amount of documents which determine the dividing line to be the summit of the chain, first relating to the colonial period up to 1810, and later on up to 1S81. In that immense number of documents there are frequent repetitions, and many of them are of comparatively .small importance, but, among those laid before the Tribunal, there will be found doubtless sufficient material to form an opinion as to what was understood as to this subject by the Argentine and Chilian statesmen, when they accepted Articles 1 and 2 of the Treaty of 1881. These documents at the same time throw light on the error into which the Chilian Expert has fallen in proposing, as he has done, to fix certain landmarks of the boundary line outside the Cordillera which the Argentine Expert was compelled to reject — an error which has caused the former to abandon a historic boundary line, formerly agreed upon, and to look for a line most irreconcilable with the physical conditions of the country, and with political interests, as it is generally recognised that the frontier between countries should be drawn over points which permit of easy defence, without giving rise to perpetual difficulties between the countries concerned. 2. MEANING OF THE "CORDILLERA DE LOS ANDES" IN THE COLONIAL EPOCH. It has been already said that Chile, properly so-called, occupied the region situated between the Cordillera and the Pacific Ocean, during the Spanish dominion. Diego de Almagro, to reach " the Province of Chile," crossed the Cordillera. To the east of that Cordillera of snow there existed other lands which were not " Chile," lands which formed " a province called Cuyo " for which Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendoza, Captain-General of Chile, appointed as Governor, in 1560, Don Pedro del Castillo, the founder, a few years later, of the city of Mendoza, " on the other side of the great Cordillera Nevada? From those times the great chain begins to appear in official documents, in historical records, and on maps. In 1561 the same Captain-General appointed Juan Jufre, as new Governor of Cuyo, indicating the boundaries of his government by "the slope of the Cordillera Nevada? c 2 12 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. After crossing the Cordillera and proceeding further, Pedro de Valdivia says he came to the "towns in the valley of Mariquina," where he halted upon receiving intelligence that Francisco de Villagran was bringing 180 men from Peril to relieve him. In his march he had discovered several populous provinces, till he came to the ( 'ordillera or long ridge of snowy mountains, which dividt the Provinces of Chile from the rest he had before discovered, and had crossed those mountains where he lost many of his Indians through excessive cold.* From this place, Valdivia despatched an expedition to continife the discoveries as far as the lake now called Valdivia, and having received a special account of the results of the investigations, he sent Geronimo de Alderete " towards the snowy mountains, who, having sent the Governor a report of all he had dis- covered, founded the Colony of Ciudad Rica, at the foot of the aforesaid snowy mountains, and erected a fort, in which he placed a garrison." f Not long after the year 1579, the Cabildo of the City of Santiago, in a memorial to the Governor of Chile, Don Kodrigo de Quiroga, said : — "Tins Kingdom of Chile has, to a breadth of twenty leagues, a little more or less, for boundary on the side where the sun rises a very lofty snowy Cordillera (Cordillera Nevada) ; and on the other side, the South Sea ; almost the whole coast goes north and south as far as the Strait of Magellan." \ Luis Tribaldos de Toledo, " Chief Chronicler of the Indies," one of the first historians of Chile, defined thus that country: — "Description or position of the Kingdom of Chile .... its breadth, from where it commences in the extreme end of Atacama to where its length finally terminates, is not more than some thirty leagues ; as, from its western side, it is hemmed in by the Southern -Sea, and on the eastern side it is confined by a snow-covered Cordillera and mountain range, it being impossible to traverse it in many places except in the same north to south route. On the other (ea&t) side of these Sierras — the eastern part — is Paraguay and Tucuman ; and lower down, towards the Strait are Cesares, and Patagonians or Gigantes, territories which have still to be conquered." " The site of the City of Castro, situated in lat. 45° S., and its Archipelago in hit. 47°, is the point in which the boundaries and jurisdiction of t fie Chilian Kingdom and Provinces terminate." § ' Antonio do Herrera, llistoria de los hechos de los Castellauos, etc., Madrid, 1009; translated, London, 1726, vol. 6, \<. 317. t Same work, p. 318. I Arehivo de [ndias, num. 284. A. Bermejo, La (Question chileua y el Arbitrage, Buenos Aires, 1ST'.), p. 67. § Vista general de las continuas guerras: dificil conquista del gran Reino, Provincias de Chile. Historiadores de Chile, Santiago, 1802 (vol. 4). Meaning of the "Cordillera de los Andes" in the Colonial Epoch. 13 Alonso de Gongora Marmolejo* says that in 1575 Chile had the same limit: — • " The Kingdom of Chile and its territory is like the scabhard of a sword, narrow and long. On one side of it is the Southern Sea, and on the other, the Cordillera Nevada, which continues throughout its entire length, in some parts sixteen leagues, and in others eighteen, and twenty in its widest part, and so on, more or less. The Cordillera is snow-covered during the entire year, and is as bold in appearance as that which separates Italy from France." Don Pedro de Cordoba y Figueroa f wrote : — " Chile is situated in South America, extending from latitude twenty .... degrees in the tropic of Capricorn to forty .... degrees towards the Antarctic pole ; measuring about 500 leagues from south to north, not by that number of degrees, but taking into consideration the inflections of the ground between its extremities. It is of unequal width, varying between forty and thirty leagues and less, from east to west. This irregularity accounts for the Cordillera being further from the sea in some parts and nearer to it in others. Entrance into Chile is difficult; the entry from the north is through an ex- tensive sandy desert, where water is scarce and unpleasant. On the south, the Chiloe Channel, which separates that island from the Kingdom, is rough and has very strong tidal currents similar to the Euripus, which was so fatal to Aristotle. On the east is the famous Cordillera, only passable during six months of the year, and inaccessible during the remainder, owing to the heavy snow, terrible even to look at. On the west, the Southern Sea." Don Miguel de Olavarria, in 1594, determined the limits of Chile as follows : — " The territory and provinces of Chile are those which are included between Copiapo and the Island of Chiloe, from north to south latitude, and in longitude from the main highest snow-covered Cordillera which runs to the Southern Sea, fifteeu leagues in breadth, the said Cordillera forming a wall and boundary between the Chilian Indians and the great number living between it and the Northern Sea ; it extends continuously to the Magellan Straits." J (It is important to call attention to the fact that the Indians, here mentioned as established in the year 1594 on the east of the Cordillera, which range was already considered as a wall and boundary between, these * Historia de Chile desde su descubrimiento hasta el auo de 1575. Historiadores de Chile, Santiago, 1 8Gli. t Historia de Chile. Historiadores de Chile, Santiago, 1862. The geographer, Sefior Asta Buruaga, says that this historian is worthy of credit, owing to his position, antecedents and the documents which he had at his disposal. Apud Quesada, La Patagonia y las tierras australes, Buenos Aires, 1875, p. 724. J The Southern Sea is the Pacific : the Atlantic was called the Northern Sea. Infonne sohre el Eeino do Chile, sus indios y guerras, in Claudio Gay, Historia Natural y Politica de Chile, Documents, vol. 2, p. 16, Paris, 1852. 14 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. Indians and those of the South Sea (Pacific Ocean), were never fought against or disturbed by the Chilian army, and that they were subdued and dispersed by the Argentine army at the time when the 1881 Treaty was signed.) In his Description del Reino de Chile,* Alonso Gonzalez de Xajera, who resided in Chile from 1598 to 1607, has said: — "That Kingdom (Chile) is one of those of Peru, which lies on the western side of its most western part. It is of a long and narrow form, having a north to south direction, enclosed between tin- same Southern Sea, of which it forms the coast, and a very lofty range of mountain* which, in that country, our people call the great snow-covered Cordillera, which on til,- eastern side of all that Kingdom constitutes an impregnable vail, the distance or space between it and the said Southern Sea being so equal in its proportions that an imaginary line drawn along the coast, and another along the Cordillera would be very nearly parallel, although in maps and special descriptions which have been printed, owing to the. little information possessed with reference to that country, it is described as being more unequal. The space between one and the other line does not exceed twenty leagues, which is its average breadth, its length being more than 500." In a report from Lorenzo del Salto to the Consejo de Indias in 1609, it is said : — " The Kingdom and Province of Chile consist of a strip of land to the length (where Spaniards live) of 300 leagues, with the breadth of, in places, fifteen, twenty and twenty- five leagues. On one side, which they call that of the coast, the South Sea bounds it, and on the other, in the direction of the Governments of Tucuman and Paraguay and of Peru, the great Cordillera Nevada is the boundary." -j- Alonso de Ovalle, in his Historica Relacion del Reino de Chile, y de las Misiones y Ministerios en el (Rome, Hi-to*), writes: — "The Kingdom of Chile, the extreme portion of South America, which, on the north, is contiguous to Peru, commences in lat. 25° S. towards the Antarctic pole, passing through the Tropic of Capricorn ; having a length of 500 leagues down to the Strait of Magellan, which is situated in lat. 54° S., and the country called .Tierra del Fuego, which is to the south of the said strait, descending to lat. 59° S. Its jurisdiction extends over a breadth of 150 leagues from east to west, for although the broadest part of zvhat improperly called Chile, does not exceed the twenty to thirty leagues which exist between the sea and the famous snow-covered Cordillera, of which we shall speak in the proper place, yet, in the divisions made of the limits and jurisdiction of the Western Indies, the King included the extensive Province of Cuyo which, similar in length with those of Chile, is double their width " (p. 1) According to this, we may divide this kingdom into three parts. The first and principal, * In Coleccion de Documentos ineditos para la Historia de Espaiia, por los SeGorea Marques tic Mirufloreg y Dun Miguel Salva, Madrid, 1SG6. | Vicente, I i. Quesada, La Patagonia y las ticrras australes, Buenos Aires, 1S75, p. 550. Meaning of the "Cordillera de los Andes" in the Colonial Epoch. 15 that which is comprised between the snow-covered Cordillera and the Southern Sea, which is properly called Chile .... and the third that which contains the Cuyo Province which is on the other side of the Cordillera, and extends to the same strait, and in breadth to the borders of Tucuman " (p. 2). Defining what he means by Cordillera, Ovalle adds : — " This is what this author (Antonio Herrera) and others, who treat of the affairs of the Indians, think of the Cordillera ; I shall tell now what I know and have seen in it. And, first, I suppose that although these two ranges, as we have said, run separate and distinct from one another through the whole of Peru and Quito, they must go on approach- ing and uniting more and more, as they go on rising to greater height, because when they reach Chile, they are no longer two, but one ; this is what travellers clearly observe when crossing this Cordillera to go from Chile to Cuyo, as I have done myself on many occa- sions. When I have passed the range I have not seen this division, but continuous and perpetual mountains which on one side and the other serve for walls, barbicans, and antemural fortifications, in thu midst of which rises one range higher than the rest, and it is that which is most properly called ' the Cordillera.' This is so great that we spend three or four days in ascending to the highest crest and as many in the descent on the other side ; this is strictly speaking, what we call "Cordillera" Then, the immense quantity of snow which falls in winter makes this Cordillera appear very beautiful. The snow is often so abundant that, in these mountains which are so lofty and so wide, and are forty leagues in diameter, there is no part of them which is not covered with snow, which is, in some places, several lances in depth. I do not know what occurs on the loftiest part of the crest, which we most pjroperly call ' Cordillera' " Diego de Rosales, writing in 16G5, states : — " The Kingdom of Chile is the southern end of the wide empire of Peru on the coast of the South Sea. It extends, past the Tropic of Capricorn, to a breadth of 082 \ leagues and stretches from lat. 26° S. to lat. 55° S. It stretches from east to west for a distance of 550 leagues, including the provinces of Cuyo beyond the mountains. It is bounded on the north by the desert of Atacama and the countries of the Diaguitas Indians, not very far from the mines of Potosi ; on the south, by the Strait of San Vicente or Lemaire, higher up than the Strait of Magellan ; on the east it is bounded by the plains of Tucu- man, which spread for about 300 leagues to that part where the great river La Plata flows to the Atlantic; on the west, by the South Sea, the extent of which is not definitely known. Such are the situation and the boundaries of the kingdom of Chile (Province of Cuyo included), according to the district and jurisdiction of its Government and Royal Chancellery ; but that which is properly called Chile, and is inhabited, extends from the valley of Copiapo, in lat. 26° S., to the city of Castro, in the Archipelago of Chiloe' in lat. 43° S. Beyond this there are no Spaniards living, but only various tribes of heathen Indians, who are in a barbarous condition On the eastern side 'the Great Cordillera Nevada de los Andes ' girds it, and between it and the sea its greatest breadth is thirty leagues, and the average about twenty. Another mountain range, although not so lofty, rises near the coast, from which may be seen secure ports and peaceful open bays. The 16 Divergences in the Cordillera cie los Andes. fertile part of Chile, then, being shut in by these two Cordilleras, forms a wide valley in which have happened things worthy of memory for posterity, and able to give pleasure and instruction to those now living. The length of this wide valley, the whole of which is inhabited by Indians, from Copiapo to the city of Castro, is 300 leagues."* Don Alonzo cle Solorzano y Velasco wrote, in 1(337 : — "This kingdom of Chile, the end and termination of South America, touches Peril on the north, extends from lat. 25° S. towards the Antarctic pole, passing through the Tropic of Capricorn, and has a length of 500 leagues to the Strait of Magellan, which is situated in lat. 50° S. It has jurisdiction over 150 leagues from east to west, although the widest part of what is properly called Chile does not exceed twenty to thirty leagues, which are those parts comprised between the sea and the snow-covered Cordillera (the Province of Cuyo being included in the first mentioned breadth). It is a broken and mountainous country, with voluminous rivers, where it rains during the greater part of the year."' \ Speaking of the great Cordillera Nevada, and of the diversity of its temperature, he adds : — " The Cordillera of Chile is a wall of superb mountains which rise one above another, in such a manner that the first serves as a ladder or step to the second, until they rise higher than the clouds, and overlook not only all the region of Chile itself, but also that of Tucuman. The mountain range, owing to its height, and the snow which always crowns it, is seen from a distance of more than fifty leagues, and serves as a guide for travellers by land, and for those who sail the sea, and in comparison with it, the Alps, the Pyrenees, and the Apennines of Italy, and other giants of superb magnitude, are mere pigmies." He also says : — " On many lofty mountains the snow continues all the year, and on others it melts half the year, and in flowing away it passes through very wide valleys. In Villarica there is a valley of thirty leagues in length, by which the whole of the Cordillera is crossed by a level road, and near the end of it is a hill of no more than half a league, and there is another on the side of the pampas and plains which extend to Buenos Aires. To cross the Cordillera from Santiago to Mendoza the road is not so easy, as from the Vail// of Aconcagua it begins to ascend very lofty Cordilleras and mountains, so that, on arriving at the top to cross the ' Cordillera^ one finds oneself many leagues above the clouds, and the air is so rarefied that it impedes and shortens respiration, and causes sickness. From here, in Southern Chile, to the straits, ' the Cordillera ' is inclined to one side, approaching the sea, and is divided into an infinite number of islands, which form the Chiloe' and < Tkwios Archipelagoes. In the former, Spaniards and Indians live; in the second, Indians only. The country is in places uninhabitable, on account of the immense snow of the Cordillera and the marshes, which render it barren of pastures for cattle, and the continual moistness and rain destroying the fruit crops. The rivers have a short course, on account * From Historia General do el Keyno de Chile, etc., por el K. P. Diego de Kosales, 3 vols., Valparaiso, 1877. + Don Alonso do Solorzano y Velasco, Iuforme sobre las cosas de Chile. Gay, vol. 2, p. 422. Meaning of the " Cordillera de los Andes" in the Colonial Epoch. 17 of the sea being so near, and might rather be called waterfalls than rivers, and are little known. Navigators and cosraographers, however, have named some of the principal of them — as tlie Rio Los Rabudos. The other rivers which proceed in sequence from Los Rabudos are : Rio de los Martires, Rio de los Gigantes (so named because there Indians of gigantic stature and giants of enormous size were seen), Rio de la Campana, Rio de los Pajaros, and Rio de San Victoriano, most of which are not navigable on account of the intricate labyrinth of islands, reefs, sandbanks, channels, currents in the sea, currents in the rivers, and perpetual swelling of the tempestuous seas." Don Jorge Juan and Don Antonio de Ulloa in their Relation Historica del Viaje a la America Meridional hecho de orden de S. M., etc., state : — ; ' That which in rigid exactness should be considered as being the extent of this kingdom (that of Chile), limiting ourselves to that part thereof which is inhabited by the Spanish, is from Copiapo to the great island of Chiloe, whose southern extremity is in lat. 44°, and from west to east that part which lies between the ' lofty Cordillera ' and the coast of the Southern Sea, that is to say about thirty leagues." * Father Pedro Lozano f defines Chile thus : — " This kingdom commences in lat. 25° S., towards the Antarctic pole, passes through the Tropic of Capricorn, having a north to south length of more than 500 leagues to its termina- tion at the extreme end of the American continent, i.e. the Strait of Magellan, situated in lat. 52° S. Its east to west breadth attains thirty leagues, though in parts it is only twenty, which is the case in those parts lying between the Pacific Ocean and the famous Cordillera Nevada ; as, although in the division of the limits and jurisdiction of the Western Indies fixed by command of our Catholic Sovereigns, the Government of Chile included the extensive Province of Cnyo, which on the other side of the Cordillera, together with Tucuman, runs parallel thereto, and is more than double its breadth, nevertheless, what we properly call Chile, is the territory which is included betiveen the western part of the Cordillera and the Southern Sea." Afterwards he adds — ■ " And it is the 'famous Cordillera ' which constitutes for it, on the western portion, a wall of such lofty dimensions."! Father Miguel de Olivares gave also as limits of Chile the Cordillera. He wrote in 1758 : — " It extends from Mount San Benito in lat. 22° S. (and is the boundary between the utmost limit of Chile and Atacama, the first province of Peru in this part) down to * Madrid, 1748, pp. 336, 337. f Historia de la Compania de Jesus en la Provincia del Paraguay, Madrid 1754. J Ibid., p. 136. D 1 8 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. Cape Horn, situated in lat. 56° S.; thus giving it a length of thirty-four degrees, which, at the rate of twenty leagues, gives 6G0 ; and is the length of this Kingdom from north to south, between the coasts of the Pacific Ocean and the Cordillera Real de los Andes. Its breadth, without at present mentioning the Cuyo provinces, is from thirty to forty leagues from the said western shores to the said great Sierra, which on the cast, extending along the whole of Peru, continues for 1500 leagues until it buries itself in the sea." He added * — "In the direction of which we have spoken, towards the region of the tropic, all the hills of that ' Cordillera ' are less agreeable and cool, but of greater wealth in every kind of minerals, especially silver ; but in a southerly direction the opposite is the case, still that region is not altogether without gold, silver, copper, iron, tin, lead, but the veins are thinner, and not so continuous as they are in the other region ; nevertheless, the climate is more agreeable, and the slopes of both sides of the 'Cordillera,' dividing into many branches, iorm very capacious valleys, which are clothed with all kinds of herbs, and provided with abundance of fresh, clear water, on which there are produced and fattened many herds of cattle. The mountains of the Sierra, by dividing lengthwise, form valleys and plains of great extent, in which can be maintained larger herds than on the mountain skirts. The departments of Maule, Chilian and the Laja enjoy this benefit, according to their respective districts, but those of the Chilian do not have the enjoyment of the beautiful lands of their 'Cordillera' without the very serious danger of robberies by the Pegueuche Indians. These wander about in the neighbourhood of the city of Chilian, after crossing the Cordillera, lor ' this Cordillera ' although divided into so many branches, is less elevated and more easily accessible, and the cattle lands ivhich are in the centre of it are of doubtful ownership owing to their being so easily reached from either side. The Spaniards could pass to the lands of the Indians when they pleased, on account of their frontiers being undefended, since, being without any political or military government, they had no soldiers to guard the passes from the Cordillera to their lands. The Spaniards, on the contrary, maintain in these pasture-grounds continually a garrison able to prevent the crossing of an enemy.* The attention of the Tribunal is directed to the facts revealed m the passage just quoted. They are very important, as they show that the sometimes rather easy crossing of the passes of the Cordillera in summer in the central part, forced tin' Spaniards to maintain continually a garrison, capable of preventing the crossing of an enemy. From this fact two conclusions are derived : (1) the Chilian Spaniards never went to the lands east of the Cordillera, having their garrisons at the western side * Historia Militar, Civil y Sagrada de Chile. In Colecciou de Historiadores de Chile y Docunientos relativos a la Historia National, Santiago, 1862. Meaning of the " Cordillera de los Andes' in the Colonial Epoch. 19 of the passes ; (2) the Spaniards then, as the Argentines now, considered the "Cordillera " as the natural bulwark for easy defence against an enemy. In continuation of the historical evidence of the Colonial epoch, the following may be added : — Don Alonso de Sotomayor, President of Chile, stated that, "The Cordilleras Nevadas separate the Provinces of Paraguay and Chile." In the Real Cedula issued by Carlos II., May 21, 1684, it is stated that — "Father Nicholas Mascardi, when traversing the mountain regions of Chile and the coasts of the South Sea, to bring to the knowledge of the Faith the many infidels who inhabit these regions, is to make an excursion to the Cordillera Nevada which divides Chile from those provinces and from Tucuman." * Don Francisco Caro de Torres, in his Report on the Services of Don Alonzo de Sotomayor, tells us that — "The said Don Alonzo landed with his men in the port of Buenos Aires, which they call Rio de la Plata, where he found himself without supplies of food for his men, and the authorities there gave him no assistance, nor had they the means to He purchased what was necessary for the support of his men, whom he led through uninhabited districts and deserts, through which not a single traveller had passed, traversing the snow-covered Cordilleras which separate the Provinces of Paraguay and Chile." f Jose Perez Garcia, who wrote his History of the Kingdom of Chile in 1778, says % :— " The Kingdom of Chile is a rich country of America ; exceeding all the other parts of it in the various advantages with which it is endowed. It is situated in its southern part which extends furthest towards the South Pole. It consists of a narroiv strip between the sea and the Cordillera, and is surrounded on both sides and at all points. Its icalls are natural, but remarkable, and, while affording protection on both sides, also ornament, fertilise and enrich it. Its northern part touches Peru, at the river Salado, in lat. 26° S., in the Atacama Pass, and the southern is washed by the boisterous waters around Cape Horn in lat. 56° S. Its western coast, situated in long, 304°, borders the Southern Sea .... and its eastern side is guarded by the lofty snow-covered Cordillera. . . ." (Book i. chap, i.) " On the east Chile reaches the crest of the Cordillera." Of the Province of Colchagua, he says : " It was bounded on the east by the crest of the Cordillera " ; and states that the district of Maule was bounded on * Memoria Historica sobre los Derechos de soberania y doniinio de la Confederacion Argentina, por Pedro de Angelis, 1852, Buenos Aires. •f Bistoriadores de Chile, Santiago, 1862, vol. 4, p. 47. | Don Jose Perez Garcia, Historia Natural, Militar, Civil y Sagrada del Eeino de Cbile (its discovery, conquest, government, population, gospel preaching, cathedral-building and pacification), 1778. MS. in the Library of Buenos Aires.) D 2 20 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. the east by the crest of the < 'ordittera ; that the province of Cauquenes was bounded on the east by the crest of the ( 'ordilkra ; that of Chilian was bounded on the east hy the crest of the Cordillera ; and that to the province of Concepcion, Valdivia assigned as boundaries from the sea on the west, to the crest of the ( 'ordilkra on the east. It should be mentioned to the Tribunal that almost the same, or a very similar expression, " crest of the Cordillera," is at present employed in the official language of the Chilian documents, when fixing the boundaries of the corre- sponding provinces. Don Joaquin de Villarreal was commissioned by the Spanish Sovereign to study the means of reducing the Indians of Chile to submission, and in 1752 produced an official Report, to which the Sovereign frequently alluded when the defence of the frontiers was referred to, and this Report is mentioned in the Royal Order of February 20, 1795. Villarreal wrote concerning the boundaries of Chile in the following terms : — " Your Majesty commanded me to examine the despatch which you have deigned to forward to me, consisting of various documents emanating from the kingdom of Chile The kingdom of Chile," he proceeds to say, " in so far as the present question is concerned, is a country which borders Peril on the north, at the end of the desert in the province of Atacama ; and is bounded on the south by the Chiloe' Sea ; on the east by the snow-covered Cordillera ; and on the west by the Southern Sea ; it has a north to south length of 340 leagues of twenty degrees. Its breadth, from east to west, or from the sea to the Cordillera, is irregular; but, according to the despatch, it is thirty-six leagues in lat. 27°, and forty-five leagues in lat. 37° — as measured on the map and plan sent by the President (of Chile) in the letter of April 28, 1739 — and on the general maps it is shown to be the same or greater in the other parts of the kingdom The kingdom is divided into two parts: that which is inhabited by the Spaniards, and that which is occupied by the rebellions Indians. In the first, which measures 240 leagues from north to south from lat. 25° to 37° S., I infer that the breadth, in a straight line, between the sea and the ' Cordillera ' does not exceed thirty leagues in lat. 27°, nor forty in lat. 37° From these data, it can be seen that the kingdom is a quadrilateral strip of territory, having a length of 340 leagues, and enclosed between the sea and the snow-covered Cordillera." In El Viajero Universal 6 noticia del Mundo Antiguo y Moderno (Madrid, 1798), it is stated that — " The kingdom of Chile lies along the coast of the Pacific Ocean, extending for the distance of 420 leagues between lat. 24° and lat. 45° S. Its width, between long. 304° to long. 308°, the former meridian being reckoned from Ferro Island, is more or less extensive in proportion as the Cordillera de los Andes which bounds it on the east approaches Meaning of the "Cordillera de los Andes" in the Colonial Epoch. 21 or recedes from the said ocean, or, more properly speaking, in proportion as the ocean approaches or recedes from the said chain of mountains This country is bounded on the west by the Pacific Ocean, on the north by Peru, on the east by Tucuman, Cuyo and Patagonia, and on the south by the Magellan territories. The main Cordillera, which, as we have said, bounds it on the east, also completely separates it, either by itself or by its branches, from all those regions, constituting in itself, at the same time, an impregnable barrier on the continental side, while the ocean defends it on the western." Molina,* speaking on the territory of Chile, says : — " Its length is estimated as 12G0 geographical miles, hut it varies in breadth as the great range of mountains, called the ' Cordillera of the Andes,' approach or recede from the sea ; or, to speak with more precision, as the sea approaches or retires from those mountains." He adds further on : — "Section 1. Limits. Chile is bounded upon the west by the Pacific Ocean, on the north by Peru, on the east by Tucuman, Cuyo and Patagonia, and on the south by the laud of Magellan. It is separated from all these countries by the Cordilleras, which form an insurmountable barrier on the land side, while the sea renders it secure upon that quarter. The few roads which lead to Chile from the neighbouring proiinces are impassable, except in summer, and are so narrow and dangerous that a man on horseback can with difficulty pass them. The extent which modern geographers assign to Chile is much greater than that which the inhabitants allow it ; the former usually comprehend within it, Cuyo, Patagonia and the land of Magellan. But these countries are not only separated from it by natural limits, but their climate and productions differ ; their inhabitants have countenances totally unlike the Chilians, and their language and customs have no resemblance. Although the principal mountain of the Cordilleras is the natural termination of Chile to the east, I comprehend within its confines not only the western valleys of that mountain as necessarily attached to it, but also the eastern, as, though not comprised within its natural limits, having been occupied by Chilian colonies from time immemorial. The Andes, which are considered as the loftiest mountains in the world, cross the whole continent of America, in a direction from south to north ; for I consider the mountains in North America as only a continuation of the ' Cordilleras.' The part that appertains to Chile may be 120 miles in breadth. It consists of a great number of mountains, all of them of prodigious height, which appear to be chained to each other ; and where nature displays all the beauties and all the horrors of the most picturesque situations. The interior structure of the Andes everywhere exhibits a very varied origin, and appears to be coeval with the creation of the world. This immense mountain, rising abruptly, forms but a small angle with its base ; its general shape is that of a pyramid, crowned at intervals with conical and, as it were, crystalline elevations. It is composed of primitive rocks of quartz, of an enormous size, and almost uniform configuration, containing no marine substances which abound in the secondary * Molina's (the Abbe Don J. Tgnacio) History of Chile, in two vols., London, 1809, vol. 1. FELIX DE AZAKA, 1781-1801. (From V oyages clans I'Anidrique Muridionale, Paris, 1809.) Meaning of the " Cordillera de los Andes " in the Colonial Epoch. 23 mountains. On the top of Descabezado, a very lofty mountain in the midst of the principal chain of the Andes, whose height appears to me not inferior to that of the. celebrated Chimborazo of Quito, various shells, evidently the production of the sea — oysters, conchs, periwinkles, etc. — are found in a calcined or petrified state, that were doubtless deposited there by the waters of the Deluge. The summit of this mountain, whose form appears to be owing to some volcanic eruption, is flat, and exhibits a plain of more than six miles square ; in the middle is a very deep lake, which from every appearance was formerly the crater of a volcano. The principal chain of the Andes is situated between two of less height that are parallel to it. These lateral chains are about twenty-five or thirty miles distant from the principal, but are connected with it by transverse ramifications, apparently of the same age and organisation, although their bases are more extensive and varied. From the lateral ridges many other branches extend outwardly, composed of small mountains, occa- sionally running in different directions." 3. RESULTS DERIVED FROM THE DOCUMENTS QUOTED. The foregoing is some of the historical evidence of the Colonial epoch. The authorities quoted suffice to prove that the crest of " the Cordillera " was the boundary between the two jurisdictions at the time of the Spanish domination ; that the jurisdiction of Chile extended over the western slope, while, in the words of the learned Don Felix de Azara, " the famous Cordilleras of the Andes and its eastern slopes are the western boundary of the Rio de la Plata? * The Colonial era terminates in the year 1810, and this is the date of the Carta Esferica de la parte interior de la America Meridional para manifestar el camino que conduce desde Valparaiso a Buenos Aires, construida por las obser- vaciones astronomicas que hicieron en esos parajes en 1794 Don Jose de Espinosa y Don Felipe Bauza, oficiales de la Real Armada, and Piano del Paso de los Andes, contained in the same sheet, published by the " Direccion Hydrografica " of Madrid (1810). This " Carta " and " Piano " reproduced here in part, are therefore Spanish official documents anterior to the South American War of Independence, and besides being the best geographical documents of that part of South America published up to that time, they have a real importance in the present case. In the " Carta " appears the Cordillera de los Andes divided into two chains, * The facsimile given of the map that accompanies the French edition of Azara's work (anterior to the Spanish edition), entitled Voyages dans l'Amerique Meridionale, par Don Felix de Azara, Paris, 1800, shows the Cordillera cut by a river (the river Aisen ?), and this fact is of value in view of the scrupulousness of this traveller, who doubtless derived this information from a trustworthy source- 24 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. ft* v H')sU4 JOSE DE ESPINOSA Y FELIPE BATJZA, 1794. (Part from tlie Carta Esferica de la parte interior de la America Meridional para manifestar el camino que conduce desde Valparaiso a Buenos Aires, Madrid, 1810.) Results Derived from the Documents Quoted. 25 the western, opens opposite Santiago, giving passage to the river Maipu, which has been drawn as rising to the east of the eastern chain, whilst the-"Kio de Tunuyan " rises in the depression between the two chains, cutting the eastern. The river Mendoza, in that " Carta," has its source in the western chain. Taking into account these openings, and the access to the higher mountains, the authors drew the boundary between the " Viceroyalty of Buenos Aires and the Kingdom of Chile" along the line of the highest summits ; abreast of the river Mendoza for the western chain, and then towards the south for the eastern, passing by the summit of the Tupungato, and cutting the source of the river Maipu and the principal branch of the river Tunuyan. In the " Piano " the name " Cordillera de los Ancles " is only given to the loftiest part of the mountainous mass, i.e. to the summit of the latter. Both facts synthetise the idea of what Spain under- stood by Cordillera de los Andes, and by the boundary within it of her two jurisdictions in the southern extremity of America; an idea which is the same that was held by the two peoples before Independence, and since then, as will be seen in the following chapters. The authorities quoted suffice, also, to prove that the Cordillera de los Andes is the name given to the high crest of the principal chain of the Andes, as it is said, among others, by the highest Chilian authorities of the colonial times — Rosales, Ovalle and Molina — and consequently what is understood by "Cordillera" is only the principal chain, known traditionally as "the Cordillera de los Andes." It would be absurd to say that the name of Cordillera, which was applied in the Colonial times, and since, to the highest crest of the main range of the Andes, Avas also applied to the mountain lying to the east and west of it. These mountains received different names from different people ; those of the east were called " the Andes," or the " Cordillera Real," in Peru and in the country now called Bolivia ; in the territory now belonging to the Argentine Republic they had local names, as, " Mountains of Tucuman," " Famatina," " Uspallata," etc. ; while those in the central and western part of Chile were called " Mountains of the Coast," " Cordillera de la Costa," or by local names. Not once, either in the histories or in the maps, is the name of "Cordillera de los Andes " given to the lateral mountains referred to. Hundreds of maps have been re-examined, and in not one of them has any such thing been found. Sometimes the name of "Andes" is given to the " Cordillera Real de •" toises, or LI, 830 feet; but the statement, according to the note by which it is accompanied, extends only to the Amies of New Grenada, Quito, and Peru ; nearly half the chain appears, therefore, still excluded from ili- estimate; and those, of Chile, Arauco and .Magellan may tend to raise, rather than lower, the mean altitude of I Ke Cordillera of South America." ( hap. ii. continued, p. 25. — " The countries on both sides the Amies, from the Straits of Magellan to the Opinion of Foreign Travellers. 33 alone in Chile are called Cordillera or Cordilleras" and he adds : " This distinction is perhaps only popular and not scientific, but it is nevertheless very characteristic ; it applies to a peculiar part and feature of the chain, which by its superior elevation, its aspect, and a formation, if not really, at least apparently, different from the principal structure of the latitude of the river Biobio, in 37° S., are described as being moistened by abundant rains, particularly the tract to the south of the Araucanos. The lands of the latter are represented as enjoying a fine climate, a very fertile soil, and as sufficiently watered for good pasture, and for agriculture without irrigation : but, from that river, the climate begins to undergo some change, and irrigation often becomes necessary. As we advance northward and nearer to Santiago de Chile, the alteration becomes more striking, although the geographical distance be small ; pasture is scanty, owing to the want of moisture, and from about Talca to Atacama, which forms nearly the whole of Chile below the Andes, the lands cannot be described as pasturages, nor vegetation as strong. Yet the soil is everywhere uncommonly good ; it throws up a little grass after the winter's rains, which are of very short duration: as we proceed to the north of Santiago, they decrease into a lew showers, and at last, along the desert of Atncatna and lower Peru, they entirely cease. But the spots of land which are cultivated, or laid down and irrigated, produce very abundantly without manure. The thin grass, of natural growth in the spring, lasts a few weeks, is very good for cattle of all descriptions, and a small saving against the calls on agriculture, so that the herds must be sent as early as possible to the Andes." P. 26. — " On the eastern side of the Andes, the climate offers the same phenomenon, and I have no doubt, as far to the northward as on the western ; although there are in both some few small spots, which, owing to their peculiar forms and situations, and to the supplies of some scanty streams from the mountains losing themselves over their surface, are naturally fit for pasture the whole year ; and these are very valuable to the owners of the estates in which they happen to be situated. To the eastward, there being more scope than in Chile, the effect of this peculiarity of climate is felt at a distance of nearly 500 geographical miles from the Andes, where the heavy and frequent rains which fall at Buenos Aires, begin sensibly to decrease, and soon afterwards to make way for almost uninterrupted sunshine ; and although light showers will sometimes extend beyond their usual limits, or some remarkable winter may cause a lit tie more rain to fall than usual, yet such is the principal feature of the climate on both sides that chain ; as far as the GOth degree of longitU'le to the east ; probably far at sea to the west : and to Quito northward. In Chile and in the opposite eastern country, the sun shines nearly the whole year, with great brightness and power, being only now and then interrupted by the short rains and cloudy days of winter with the north-west wind, and by some few passing clouds in the other seasons ; but in lower Peru, the sky is much more clouded, although rain do not fall. If we now advance on the chain itself of the Andes, we shall find that from the same latitude where the climate becomes drier, and of Conception, or perhaps far more to the southward, the clouds hang thick, almost daily, on some parts of the higher ridges, or to speak the language of Chile, of the Cordillera, and that they are not often seen on the top of the lower chain, except in winter. Storms about those ridges are very frequent during the whole year ; and in summer, the lightning may be seen there from Santiago, two or three times a week in the evening or at night ; but thunder is very seldom heard. The clouds do not discharge their contents in rain, but in snow. Guides in Chile, the herdsmen who lead the cattle to the mountains below the higher Cordillera in summer and who tend on them, or, in short, any one that I heard, will not say, it rains on the mountains, but, it snows; although the storm may extend very far below the line of perpetual snow." Chap. xi. p. 223. — " A torrent called Orcone comes out of the central ridge near this spot and joins the Cueva, with a good effect when the snow does not interrupt the sight of it. We soon began to ascend that part of the Cordillera called the eumbre. or the summit of the ridge ; and shortly the ground became so steep, and, owing to a crust of frozen snow, so slippery, that our surprise was great, when we saw that our mules could carry us and our heavy loads along it : a brow, where had we attempted not only to walk, but even to stand on our feet, we must have instantly slipped and rolled down like snowballs, the distance of about a mile. Our Peruvian fellow traveller, who rode immediately behind me, was from time to time exclaimino- ' Ave Maria, qual camino ! ' and I, fearing lest his ejaculations should vibrate the atmosphere too much, and my mule out of its balance, was holding on it, as if an ounce more only, thrown over the right or left side, 34 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. lower Andes, establishes itself very strongly in the mind. Therefore, after having travelled in the mountains of that country, with the impression of the distinction made by the name of Cordilleras, of higher central ridges, having the appearance of sharp indented or knotty lines, and when reading this appellation applied to chains of mountains generally, in descriptions of America, it requires an effort of some continuance, to bring down their heights to any standard, and their ridges to a common structure, by which the impression received in Chile becomes gradually more faint and confused." These observations are perfectly correct. " Cordillera" with no addition, means, in Chile and in the Argentine Republic, the lofty Andine chain, and it is vain to attempt to set aside this meaning for the purpose of strengthening inconsistent arguments which only introduce confusion respecting points which are clear in the Treaty of 1881. In this lofty chain, and in no other, is the " Cordillera de los . I ntlcs " of that Treaty. The loftiest ridge of the chain is called the " Cumbre " and the " Cordillera," as former travellers have noted, and as all remark who have crossed the Cordillera from the time of the conquest to the date of the Treaty. Each lofty pass (portezuelo) of the loftiest ridge of the chain is called a pass of the " Cumbre of the Cordillera,"' and a succession of points form the loftiest " cumbres" of the Cordillera to which the Treaty of 1881 refers. The Argentine Government maintain the same views, and it is, therefore, should make us both roll down to a death, which we are apt to contemplate differently, or to talk more freely i if, when our passions are stirring within and warming us, than when they and our body become chilled by an icy wind and scenery. But this dangerous road, which without snow is very easy, did not continue more than half a mile, and afterwards the ascent, although steeper still, yet being more exposed to the sun, was nearly free from it, as during the last fine days much of it had melted down. The ground was very soft, consisting of broken or pulverised fragments of rocks, and we climbed up it, a few steps at a time, in order that J-u«-/i byfr'fr.-i J. M. GILLISS, 1856. (From The U.S. Naval Astronomical Expedition to the Southern Hemisphere.) Andes," which ridge is crossed by the rivers that take their rise, " not far from the highest summits of the Andes," taking thus as the " Cordillera " only those highest summits, as shown on Plate 8 of his work, inserted here in facsimile. g 2 44 Divergences in the Cordillera dc los Andes. He confirms the statement of Schmidtmeyer by adding: — "But in the Spanish language 'Cordillera' means a chain of mountains, and one may say ' Cordillera de la costa ' with the same propriety as ' Cordillera de los Andes/ How- ever, when Creoles speak of La Cordillera,' they mean invariably 'the Andes.' " * * From The U.S. Naval Astronomical Expedition to the Southern Hemisphere during the years 1849—50— 51-52, Lieut. J. M. Gilliss, Superintendent. By Lieut. J. M. Gilliss, Philadelphia, 1856. Vol. 1, p. 2. — " Thus, when the Republic took its place among the nations of the earth, Chile consisted hut of the narrow strip of land lying between the highest peaks of the Andes and the Pacific, and lat. 24 and ">ii S." P. 3. — "Beginning in the extreme north, the principal chain of the Andes rises higher and higher to lat. 35°, from whence southward the declension of its prominent points is not less uniform. In central Chile, it is composed of two lofty and several lower ranges of mountains, enclosing lakes whose frigid waters teem with animal life, in the midst of longitudinal valleys often of exquisite beauty and fertility; black gorges and chasms, with roaring torrents, beside which the nervous stand tremblingly ; oa-ses with trickling rivulets to charm the lover of sylvan beauty ; deserts on which, for many continuous leagues, nature has never vouchsafed a leaf of verdure ; and black and broken masses of rock towering to mid-heaven, on which the snow has rested since the convulsion that raised them above the line of perpetual congelation " P. 4. — " Very little reliable information has ever been obtained of the Cordilleras either north or south of the central provinces. Bleak, precipiitous, and barren sides deter all other natives than professional mine- hunters from encountering the almost unendurable privations inevitably attending their exploration, and these men have intelligence only of metallic veins. The few scientific individuals who have taken a day or two from other occupations whilst in this out-of-the-way quarter of the globe, have only traversed the beaten passes of the Portillo and Cumbre, not unfrequently deducing general theories from knowledge of individual localities. In the course of a trigonometrical survey for the Government, Seiior Pissis has explored frorr lat. 32 = 20' to lat. 34°, as far east as the culminating ridge, and he has kindly furnished me witli a small copy of his map. Except of the several passes into the Argentine territory, and a few places of noted interest visited by Professor Domeyko, very little is known beyond those parallels." P. 13. — "Table showing the heights of some of the principal mountains and mountain passes in Chile above sea-level : — Name. Cliaiu to which ii l« 'longs. Latitude. Long tude. Height iu Feet. HeightofPer- uetual Snow. Remarks. Portezuelo Come Caballo . Andes o 27 36 O 69 20 14,521 14,784 | Fossil shells | abound. (Snow sometimes < Cordillera de Delia Ana . >) 2 'J 01 69 52 13,431 Portezuelo Doha Ana . »> 14,849 < lordillera de la Laguna . !! 30 30 69 23 15,575 remains all [ summer. Aconcagua .... *) 32 38 69 57 22,301 1 'ampana de Quillota . Cordilleras 32 57 71 06 6,053 Cumbre Pass .... 32 49 70 07 | [2,488 i I 12,656 i |l (bservations of I Lieut. MicRae Joncal . ... Andes 33 05 69 48 20,368 San Francisco 53 33 12 70 12 16,998 < lerro Ainarillo ( 'ordilleras 33 18 70 54 7,316 i !erro del Plomo . Andes 33 19 70 07 17,825 Tupungato ,, :;;; 22 69 ;.i 22,450 11, tso < luesta Prado .... ( 'ordilleras 33 25 70 50 6,083 )* :: I 26 71 14 5,357 Portillo, East Pass Andes 33 35 69 4ti 14,31 .:> i < observations of Portillo de los Piuquenos . >j L3.362 1 Lieut. Maclvae. » 33 42 69 51 18, 150 •■ Opinion of Foreign Travellers. 45 Elwes, who crossed also the Cordillera, says : — " We were now in a large valley, which for wildness and savage grandeur was equal to anything I have ever seen. In front teas La Cumbre, the dividing ridge, serrated at the Name. Chain to which it belongs. Latitude. Longitude. Hrialit in Feet. Height of Per- petual Snow. Remarks. Sar. Pedro Nolasco Andes o 33 l 40 o 70 15 10,952 Horcon de Ptedra . Cordilleras 7.313 (A mine of ars;en- 1 tiferous lead. Aculeo Cerros de Alhue . ?» 33 33 55 59 70 70 50 54 4,888 7,332 < Yuz de Piedra Andes 34 12 70 03 17.126 Maypn „ 34 17 09 4:; 17,664 Deseabezado .... 35 00 71 03 13.100 8,455 < lerro Coligual Cordilleras 36 50 72 15 807 Volcano of Autuco Andes 37 07 71 02 9,245 6,594 Volcano of Llavma 38 50 72 03 not known Active vole. 1S52. Volcano of Villarica . ,, 39 14 71 57 16,000 (?) Active vole. 1852. Cuesta Paragudehue . Cordilleras 40 02 73 15 511 Volcano of Osorno Andes 41 09 72 36 7,550 4 , 800 Volcano of Minchinmadom 42 48 72 31 8,000 El Corcovado .... i» 43 12 72 50 7,510 Yan teles >! 43 29 72 48 8,030 P. 19. — " .... Put in the Spanish language "cordillera" means "a cliain of mountains," and one may say " eordillcra de la costa" with the same propriety as "cordillera de los Andes.'" However, when Creoles speak of " la cordillera " they mean invariably the Andes It lias already been stated that Chile, north of 33°, is a series of mountains, extending from the Ocean to the Andes, without any continuous chain which could properly come within the definition of cordillera, as meant bj- Dr. von Tschudi ; but the Coquimbo, whose waters do continue to the Pacific, has its origin near the highest range of the Andes eastward of long. 70°, and thence works its way. From Chacabuco, south, we have seen that the Andes are composed of separate ranges of mountains, three being sometimes distinctly visible between the plain and the highest range." P. 20. — " Now 'I shall show that every river of consequence in Chile has its source not far from the liighest summits of the Andes, traverses the intermediate plain in an average direction west by south, penetrates the central Cordilleras, and discharges its waters in the Pacific. Some few tributaries are exceptions to the law, and in one instance (the Piobio) they somewhat influence the course of the main stream after junction ; but it originates in the Andes, and otherwise fulfils the rule." P. 23. — " The Deseabezado, one of the summits in the fourth range counted from the plain, is still some miles to the southward of the dividing line of waters, from which, to the junction of the Loncomilla at the eastern base of the western Cordilleras, the Maule has few tributaries, and flows in a serpentine line with a resultant direction west by south. At the same time, here as well as at many other points of the Andes, the hills separating the waters from those that fall to the Atlantic are invariably less elevated than the line which w r ould connect the great cones or peaks. Deriving its supply in summer wholly from melting snows, the stream is deeper and more rapid during the earliest warm days, when the sun's heat is first powerful in the lower and sheltered ravines.'' Vol. 2, p. 6. — " Concluded my work in the calm of the morning, and at seven o'clock set out for the Cumbre. or summit of the range, where we arrived about ten a.m. ; but found the wind so strong that it would have been impossible to set up the instruments : we therefore retraced our steps across the snow to the Casucha de la Cumbre, about half a mile from the pass. The road from the Alto de la Laguna, after ascending a tolerably steep hill to the right, continues for abotit three miles up a valley not very steep or stony, passing, about half-way, the Casucha de las Calaveras, and arrives at the foot of the steep part of what may be called the spine of the Cordillera. Here there is no longer a stream to follow, but the ascent must be accomplished by 4 6 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. top with a succession of rocky pinnacles. To cross this would have been a difficult undertaking, had it not been for the disintegration of the rock, which had run down in steep slopes At length we arrived at the summit of the ridge, and looked down some huge ravines into Chile. It was a fine picture of wild mountain scenery." 1 LA CTJMBEE. KOBERT ELWES, 1854. (From A Sketcher's Tour round the World.) The plate reproduced from Elwes' book, shows the true idea conveyed by the expression " La Cumbre," an idea which has been the same from the colonial epoch till now. zigzags up the ridges. This is necessarily a very slow process, and frequently one finds himself Lut a few fee advanced after toiling over a great deal of ground. * K. Elwes, tsketeher's Tour round the World, London, 1854, pp. 148 and 14V. Opinion of Several Authors of Popular Works. 47 3. OPINION OF SEVERAL AUTHORS OF POPULAR WORKS. The opinion of the aforementioned explorers, and of others who are not quoted in order not to unduly lengthen this statement of facts, was the one made use of by those who, not being personally familiar with the majestic range of mountains, described it in popular works with a fair amount of general exactitude, according to the knowledge at that time. These descriptions, and for a restricted number of observant people, the special surveys hereinafter mentioned, caused the general opinion in Chile, that the boundary between the two countries could not be other than the highest crest of the main chain of the Cordillera, without any consideration of this crest being intersected by streams which took their rise in the east.* No one could ignore the fact that this was really the case, but no one could fail to know likewise that this same feature existed with regard to other chains of mountains which divide nations and provinces, and that their highest summits were chosen as the most suitable boundary, although the principal slopes of these were intersected. The Manual of Geography by G. H. Von Kladen, published in 1862,f contains a perfect summary of what was considered at that time to constitute the Cordillera de los Andes. * These are spoken of as rising in the east, as it is well known that there are no streams in the whole leDgth which intersect the mountain range from west to east. f Handbuch der Erdkunde, Berlin, 18(52, Tart iii. p. 54G. " The Cordilleras. — The mighty mountain-system, running through the whole of South America from tin- south point to the Isthmus of Panama, begins at the south point of the continent, for Tierra del Fuego is but a disrupted part of it. Low lying in the south, but cut up by deep valleys, the < lordilleras rise further in the north, so that at lat. 42° S., in the region in which to the east lies a sj'stem of lakes and the great reservoir of Nahuelhuapi, they present a mighty mountain-system." "Of the Patigonian Cordillera, from Cape Froward, lat. 54° S., apparently 4500 to 5500 feet high, ami covered with the most luxuriant forests, the produce of a moist, moderately warm climate, we know but little. Besides the main, Cordilleras, there runs on their west side a secondary lateral chain which, in the direction of the length of the continent, forms the island of Chiloe, the Chonos Archipelago, the peninsula of the three mountains, the Archipelago of the Madre de Dios, and finally, the manifoldly splintered islands in the same series with Tierra del Fuego. This coast chain consists of mica schist and a tertiary argillaceous sandstone containing lignite, and has rounded tops and plateaux covered for the most part with impenetrable primeval forest. It is as much as fifteen stuuden (about forty-five miles) broad and is cut up by navigable streams. Across the less steep eastern slope, which gradually sinks down to the pampas, there stretch eastern spins rising abruptly out of the plain, but in Patagonia assuming the shape of rocky terraces rising, stage on stage, to the west. Along the west foot of the chain, on the other hand, there stretches a series of seven quite considerable lakes. " The highest peaks, transcending the snow-line, which from lat. 55° to 50 c S., reaches to 2250 feet high, are (in Tierra del Fuego) the Darwin and the Sarmiento, Barney, Moores. The presumed volcanoes are 48 Divergences in the Cordillera dc los Andes. He distinguished the principal Cordillera, from the Cordillera de la Costa. He mentions the system of lakes existing on the west of the latter: notes the irregularity of the crests, which are thrust to the west and the east of the axis, containing the Cordillera further to the north, and in short, insinuates that obviously there is no constant continuity of mountain chain, and that the woodcutters confidently assert, that the chain is intersected by several similar deep gorges. J. Malte-Brun* describes Chile in the following manner : — "The exterior configuration of Chile consists of a long coast line, two Cordilleras (the main Cordillera and the Cordillera de la Costa), two other groupn of mountains and an immediate slope. The country is bounded on the north by the Bolivian Republic, from which it is separated by the great Atacama Desert ; on the east by the Argentine or La Plata Republic, from which it is separated by the lofty Cordilleras de los Andes ; and finally on the south and west by the Pacific Ocean." M. Bescherelle, Senior,! states : — " Chile is a South American Republic, bounded on the north by Bolivia, on the east by the La Plata Confederation, on the south by Patagonia, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean; between Int. 25° 20' and 44° S., and between long. 72° and 77°. The ground ascends gradually from the shores to the Andes, which form the natural boundary of Chile on the east." Don Baldomero Menendez J states : — " The Republic of Chile consists of a part of Western South America, of an elongated, irregular quadrilateral form, and shut in on the east and west between the great ocean or the Pacific Sea and the Andes. . . . Chile seeks to incorporate in its states all the western roasts of Patagonia, and the day in which it realises this great ideal, it will command the waters of the great ocean from the frontiers of Bolivia to Cape Horn .... with the Argentine or the La Plata Confederation and Patagonia on the east, the Cordillera de lus Andes being its natural boundary and frontier." from south to north: Yanteles, Corcovado, Minohimavida or Chayapiren, Calbuco, Osorno (known for certain to be a volcano). The floor of the valleys lies here hardly at sea-level, and therefore, to the south of lat. 41' 50' S., the western valleys are all occupied by arms of the sea, appearing like rivers, and intersecting the land quite in the manner of rivers. In this part of the Cordilleras the crest-line has no uniformity. Deep gorges with strip walls penetrate deeply into it, as far as Magellan Straits, the summits are thrust to the west and the east of the axis containing the Cordillera farther to the north. Obviously, too, there is here uo constant continuity of mountain-chain. In fact an expedition, which made its way from the west coast to the great lake of Nahuelhuapi, encountered no greater height than from 1500 to 2400 feet, and the woodcutters say with assurance that the chain is cut by several like deep indentations." Malte llrun, La Geografia Universal, Madrid and Barcelona, 1853, vol. 2, p. 4.*>ii. f Grand Dictionnaire de Geographic Universelle, etc., I'm i is, is;,;, vol. '-', p. 243. :J Eneiclopedia Hispano-Americana. Manual de Geografia y Estadistica de Chile. Paris, 18G0, p. -7. Opinion of Several Authors of Popular Works. 49 Bitter * says : — " Chile, an independent state on the west coast of South America, situated on the shores of the Pacific Ocean, and on the west side of the Andean range, extending from lat. 25° 25' to 43° 57' S., is bounded on the east and south by the state of La Plata and Patagonia, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. In length it is about 1100 English miles, and breadth from 110 to 120 English miles. The entire country presents an irregular surface, doping from east to west, that is to say from the Cordilleras to the sea The stujyendous range of the Andes forms its eastern boundary." Adrien Guibertf says : — " Chile, South American state, on the Pacific Ocean Between lat. 25° 20' and 44° S., long. 72° to 77° W. Bounded on the north by Bolivia, the United States of La Plata on the east, Patagonia on the south, the Pacific Ocean on the west Length from north to south about 1850 kilometres, average breadth about 175 kilometres A very mountainous country, protected by the Andean ridge on the east." Mr. Daniel J. Hunter J says : — " Chile lies west of the Andes, and between the parallels of lat. 23° and 53° 59' S. ; having a coast line of about 2270 miles and a breadth varying from 200 miles to 40 miles. Chile is bounded N. by lat. 23° S. which separates it from Bolivia, E. by the Andes, which form the dividing line between it and the States of the Argentine Confederation, S. and W. by the Pacific Ocean. It includes in its territory all the Patagonia west of the Andes, as the Argentine Confederation does that portion lying east of those mountains." Ripley and Dana§ say : — " Chili or Chile, a Republic of South America, lying west of the Andes, and between the parallels of lat. 23° and 55° 59' S., having a coast line of about 2270 miles and a breadth varying from 200 miles to 20 miles Chile is bounded north by lat. 23° S., which separates it from Bolivia, east by the Andes, which form the dividing line between it and the States of the Argentine Confederation, south and west by the Pacific Ocean. It claims to include in its territory all Patagonia west of the Andes, as the Argentine Con- federation does that portion lying east of those mountains." Mr. William Hughes )| says : — " Chile is a long, narrow country on the western side of South America. Upon the * Patter's Geographisch-statisches Lexicon, etc., Leipzig, 1864, vol. 1, p. 316. f Dictionnaire geographique et statistique (authorised by the University), Paris, 1865, p. 481. j A Sketch of Chile, expressly prepared for the use of Emigrants from the United States and Europe to that country, New York, 1866, p. 6. § New American Cyclopedia: a popular dictionary of general knowledge, New York and London, 1868, vol. 5, p. 77. |] Professor of Geography at King's College, London : A Manual of Physical, Industrial and Political Geography, London, 1869, p. 602. H 50 Divergences in the Cordillera dc los Andes. east it is bounded by the stupendous chain of the Andes, which divide it from the Province of La Plata ; upon the north by Bolivia ; on the west and south by the Pacific Ocean. The length of Chile from north to south is 1150 miles, but its breadth nowhere exceeds 130 miles, and is loss than 00 miles towards the northern extremity of the country." In a Compendium of Geography * for the schools of the Republic of Chile it is stated : — " Chile is a beautiful country situated on the south-west portion of America, between lat. 24° S. on the north, and 56° S. on the south ; it is bounded on the north by Bolivia, on the east by the Cordillera de los Andes, on the south by the Southern Ocean, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean." M. Onesime Reclus f states : — " Tlie Republic (Argentine) has an area of 156 million hectares, three times that of France, without extending beyond Bermejo on the north, or the River Negro of Patagonia on the south. Including the hot plains of the Gran Chaco, disputed by Bolivia, and by Paraguay when Paraguay was powerful — and cold Patagonia, to which Chile in vain lays claim, the territorial area of the Argentine Republic amounts to 297 million hectares, more than five times that of France " At the Strait of Magellan, at the entrance of which the tide rises to a height of from 15 to 20 metres, the continent terminates. From the other side of the strait, as far as Cape Horn, Tierra del Fuego, an island in which some mountains, covered with eternal snow, exceed 2000 metres in height, nominally forms part of Argentine territory, like Patagonia " " The Andes make their first appearance in the Cape Horn mountain (1000 metres), a formidable rock, in front of which a tremendous sea runs. From island to island, the chain reaches the continent, and pushes northwards under the name of the Patagonian Cordillera. In the immediate vicinity of the Pacific, it separates the Chilian coast from the broad and chilly deserts of Patagonia, claimed in vain by Chile ; the location of which on the east of the Andes bringing them indisputably within the sphere of Buenos Aires." Professor Dr. C. Wappaus % in his description of Chile, says that as it is slated in her Constitution, the boundary of this country to the west is the Cordillera de los Andes, and this opinion is of value, Dr. Wappaus having made the largest collection of historical, statistical and geographical works on Chile. ( lompendio de< leografia para las Escuelas de la Republica, official edition, Santiago de < 'bile, 1871, p. 12. | Geographic, Paris, 1872, pp. 569, .".7:; and 578. t Panama, Wu Granada, Venezuela, Guayana, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia und Chile geographisch und statistisch dargestellt, Leipzig, 1863-1870. Opinion of Several Authors of Popular I Forks. 51 M. Louis Gregoire * says : — - " Chile, a South American State on the Great Ocean, between lat, 25° 20'~and 44° S. and between long. 72° and 77° W. [Chile has taken lat. 23° S. as its northern boundary, and even claims the possession of the country up to lat. 21° 48' as being the frontier of the ancient Chilian Captaincy.] It touches Bolivia on the north by the Atacama Desert ; the Andes separate it on the east from the Argentine Confederation ; on the south it reaches to the Strait of Magellan, but in reality, it terminates in the islands of Chiloe and Chouos, which belong to her. The Chilian Amies are very lofty." The Encyclopaedia Britannicaf (9th edition, 1875) describes the Andes thus : — " The range may be considered as commencing on the south with Cape Horn, although for several degrees it is much broken up by arms and straits of the sea The Strait of Magellan also cuts through and across the range, isolating the mountainous islands of Clarence and Santa Ine's. Otway Water cuts through the range and penetrates to the plain of Patagonia. North of this are several snowy eminences, and iu some places glaciers descend almost to the sea-level. At Last Hope Inlet, or a little north of 52° S., we have the commencement of the Andes, as a continuous range, Disappointment Bay being the most northern place where the Pacific reaches the plains to the east of the Andes The highest part or crest of the range is close to the sea, and consequently the streams which fall into the Pacific are all small Among the more conspicuous are Mount Yantales, 8030 feet, Mount Melimoyu, 7500 feet, Mount Corcovado, 7510 feet, and Mount Minchinmadiva, 7400 feet above the sea-level In Chile the Andes increase in height and width, and between about 38° and 23° run approximately north and south, and nowhere do they recede so far from the sea as in the southern part of Chile Across these ranges there is a pass, which, with the exception of those near the mountains of Osorno and Viliarica, is the most southern in Chile. The summit of this pass is not more than 12,000 feet above the sea. The pass of Planchon lies north of Mount Descabezado, and to the south of Peteroa is the pass of Las Damas, which is probably not more than 11,000 feet at its highest point. At the head of the, Maypu Valley a pass traverses the two ranges of the Andes as well as the included valley of Tunuyan. That through the western range is called Piuquenes Pass, and rises to 13,210 feet above the sea-level, while that through the eastern range is called Portillo and rises to 14,385 feet above the sea. Near 32° 38' S. Aconcagua rises to 23,290 feet, and is, so far as known, the highest peak in America, and the highest volcano in the world. A little to the south of it is the Cumbre or Uspallata Pass. In the western range it rises to 12,454 feet above the sea, and on its north flank is the pass of Los Patos. At about 30° S. the mountainous system becomes more complicated, owing to the appearance of several ranges which rise out of the plains towards the north-west corner of the Argentine Confederation, some of which run north and join in the lofty highlands of the Bolivian Andes. It is doubtful whether all strictly belong to the Andes. Thus in the * Dictionnaire Encyelopedique d'Histoire, de Biograpbie, de Geographie, Paris, 1872, p. 463. | Article Andes. H 2 52 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. latitude of Coquimbo, where both the mountains and the coast-line trend somewhat to the east of north, there are three parallel mountain ranges. The western is called the Andes, the central range is known as the Sierra Famatina, and the eastern as the Sierra Velasco. The two latter ranges are quite isolated from the first-mentioned range, terminating abruptly on the north and south. North of 28° S., however, a number of Sierras which rise from the Argentine plain form an extensive mass of mountains. These are continuous into the Cordilleras de los Valles, de Despoblado, and Abra de Cortaderas, which form the eastern margin of the lofty mountain plains of Bolivia. These plains slope down from the eastern sid,> of the Andes, just as the Atacama Desert seems to form part of the western slope." M. Vivien de Saint-Martin * says: — "Andes. Cordillera de los Andes, Cordillera (i.e. chain) of the Andes. A great chain of mountains which is situated on the west coast of South America alonir< flowed into the Cachapoal, as it rises outside the natural limits of the basin, and it is probable that earthquakes may hair caused it to recede to the Angostura defile, where it has forced a passage. These Opinion of Scientific Men. 59 changes in the course of the rivers are rather frequent in Chile, as the immense quantity of material which they carry away with them during floods, raises the beds ; this soon raises the level to that of the plain, and the river terminates by spreading over it. To these successive changes in the beds of the rivers, therefore, must be attributed the origin of those mounds of rounded pebbles which occupy the lower portions of the longitudinal valley* Referring to the Rapel basin, he adds : — P. 235. — " The Cachapoal receives many affluents, those on the left bank being most numerous and important. It receives first, in this part, the Rio de las Lenas, which issues from Lake Yeso and originates in the summit of the Andes under lat. 34° 24'." With reference to the Maule and its affluent, Pissis says : — P. 240. — " The basin of the Maule is the largest in Chile, extending from lat. 35° 7' to 36° 30', embracing an area of 20,000 square kilometres. It is enclosed on the north by the anticlinal line which forms the southern boundary of the Mataquito Basin as far as the Tabunco Mountains, it then passes along the crest of the Tabunco Mountains; and then continues along the crest of the mountains which continue towards the Libun, and thence to the sea, passing along the Quibolgo Mountains. The summit of the Andes, from el Descabezado to lat. 36° 20' S., forms its eastern limit ; on the south it is enclosed, firstly, by a branch which strikes off from the Longavi ; it turns towards the south, then towards the west, where it forms the Semita Mountains, and then along an anticlinal line that passes through San Carlos and goes thence to Pefiuelas and Quirihue ; finally it is quite enclosed on the west by the summit of the Maritime Cordillera,^ following the line which passes through Luga, Mount Name, and the Empedrado Mountains, whence it continues towards Constitucion. The Maule, which collects the waters of this basin, issues from a great lake bearing the same name, situated in the summit of the Andes at an altitude of 2194 metres; thence it continues towards the north-west, until it strikes the massif which sustains the Descabezado ; it then takes a west-north-west direction and continues to the sea, where it discharges its waters in lat. 35° 20' S." He adds also, in reference to the Biobio basin :- — P. 248. — " Finally, a little way before it discharges into the Biobio, the Laja receives the Rio Claro, which bas its origin in the eastern slope of the Maritime Cordillera in the mountains whichextend between la Florida and Tomeco." Writing with reference to the basin of the Yaldivia, he says : — P. 252.— "The Rio Valdivia, which discharges into Coral Bay, under lat. 39° 53', receives the waters of a rather extensive basin extending from lat. 39° 25' to 40° 20', formed by an anticlinal line which follows, at the commencement, the summit of the Maritime Cordillera, from Punta Niebla to the height of Punta la Maiquilla. From * Eecently, in August 1899, the Tinguiririca river has changed its bed, causing great damage. | Father Rosales makes references, two centuries before, to the summit of that chain, toI. 1, p. 275. i 2 6o Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. whence it proceeds towards the east, traversing the San Jose tablelands, passing along the ridge of the volcanoes Villarica and Quetropillan, from whence it follows the ridge of the Cordillera de los Andes until Cerro Mocho and Lajara Volcano ;...." Speaking of the basin of the Reloncavi, lie says : — P. 2G1. — "Independently of these great rivers which all rise in the Cordillera de los Andes, Chile further possesses a certain number of water-courses, which sometimes originate in the western slope of the Maritime Cordillera and others in the last spurs of the Andes." Speaking of the rivers which have their source in the western slope of the Cordillera de la Costa, he says : — P. 263, — "Between the Made and the Itata a great number of small rivers are found, which, except the Loanco and the Reloca, all rise in the western slope of the Maritime Cordillera." * P. 264. — "Then follow in order the Punchemo stream, the Rio de Chanco, the Rahue, the Pejuco, the Curanipe, the Gomez stream, the Huechupureo, the rivers Corquecura and Comullao, small water-courses which all rise in the ivestern slopes of the Maritime Corddlera!' P. 264.—" Near the city of Arauco, the Caranpangue discharges ; this is a rather considerable river, formed by the junction of two other water-courses, one of which originates in the mountains situated on the west of Santa Juana, first flowing southwards, then westward, where it cuts the Maritime Cordillera through a deep gorge which passes along the base of the Tres Cruces mountain and joins with the other arm some six kilometres above the city of Arauco." The Tribunal will excuse the long cjuotations made from the work of Pissis, but as it is an official Chilian survey, it is not difficult to draw the following conclusions from these quotations. Pissis employs the word "vertiente" synonymously with " versant " or " slope," and shows that there are some rivers, such as the river Maipo, which take their rise outside the natural boundaries of their own basins. This must be borne in mind, as something similar occurs with the rivers cut by the line proposed by the Argentine Expert, since it may be said that such parts which are to be found on the eastern slope of the Cordillera are outside the natural limits of their own basins, the normal basins lying in the western slope, which is the only one belonging to Chile. Pissis shows that the ( !ordillera de la Costa does not form a part of the Cordillera de los Andes ; and the same must be said of the corresponding ridge of hills to the cast, which the Argentine Expert pronounced to be the territory of his country. Pissis shows * "En el vertiente occidental." Sensr Pissis' work illustrates, in many pages, the true meaning of the word " vertiente" (slope) used in tlio Treaty of 1881. Opinion of Scientific Men. 61 also that the city of Santiago is situated at the foot of the Cordillera de los Andes, in the central plain to the west of the mountains, that the Cordillera de la Costa, although intersected by rivers having their source in the Cordillera de los Andes, has its own line of watershed, and that the " cima" or summit is synonymous ivith the line of high crests of the mountain chain. If it is the case in the Cordillera de la Costa, it may be the same for the Cordillera de los Andes. The attention of the Tribunal is called to all the above points, as they bear strongly upon the questions which have been submitted for decision. It will now be seen what the renowned savant Domeyko understood as the " Cordillera de los Andes." He describes it in the following manner ; — * " The Andes, which, in all the northern chain, from Atacania to Aconcagua, rise more than 5000 yards above the level of the sea, and generally preserve the same character in every part, presenting but little variety in their forms, and having but few isolated peaks, assume in approaching lat. 33° S., a slightly different aspect and a greater elevation; at the same time a certain complication is noticeable in their configuration, and new rocks and new formations appear on their surface. It is in this latitude that we first find volcanic masses of a recent period, and exceedingly lofty cones, whose snow-capped summits protect recently extinct craters " The remaining portion of this high range appears to end in front of San Fernando in the summit of the Tinguiririca, one of the highest volcanoes in Chile, now dormant, and covered with ice, like its neighbours. From this point, the Andean chain becomes visibly less in elevation ; it becomes narrower at the same time, and its undulations are more gradual. f The traveller coming from the north, who endeavours to embrace in one comprehensive view the two chains of the Cordilleras and the beautiful plain which separates them, at once notices this difference, which becomes more apparent the more one advances towards the south. " Let us confine ourselves to the Andean chain, walking in the centre of the Talca Plains, on a summer's day, with the sun approaching its zenith " It is over the summit of Descabezado as well as those of the Planchon, the Cerro Azul, and the Cerro Nevado de Chilian, that the line of the loftiest region of the Andes passes, but not the line of the water-divide, which lies on the other side of it, some three or four leagues more to the east. Between these two lines, facing the Descabezado, is a mountain called the Cerro del Medio— snow-covered, volcanic, and from whose craters, now empty, and ice- covered slopes, issues a considerable stream, subsequently increasing to a river and flowing * Excursion a la Cordillera de Talca y de Chilian, by Dr. Ignacio Domeyko. Faculty of Medicine and Physical Science and Mathematics. Sessions held in June, July and September, 1849. f Referring to the same latitude where Domeyko says that the Andean Chain becomes narrower, the statement read by the Representative of Chile before the Tribunal speaks of the Nevado Hill, and locates it 175 kilometres to the east of the boundary line proposed by the Argentine Expert in the same chain which Domeyko describes. Therefore, it is useless to say that the Nevado Hill (as many others quoted by the Chilian Representative) is not in the Cordillera de los Andes. 62 Divergences in the Cordillera dc los Andes. north-east, passing through a valley called the Yalle Grande, descending almost parallel to the sources of the Mondaca lagoon, and connecting with the river which leaves this lagoon, the two together form the Rio Lontue, one of the largest in the south. Behind the Cerro del Medio stream, on the east, lie the hills of the chain which divides the waters, and through a small gap in the hills, called the Puerto del Yeso, lies the road to the Argentine Provinces, and the grazing grounds to which the Talca farmers send their cattle in •annuel' " On March 25, at nine in the morning, I stood on the summit of the highest ridge of the Andes, or the boundary line, called at tin's place, Portezuelo de Mata Caballos " The remainder of the line of the whole summit of the Cordilleras was free from snow, although its elevation was almost as great as that of Mont Blanc in the Alps, and exceeded that of the Peak of Teneriffe by more than 1000 varas." * Analysing the work entitled The U.S. Naval Astronomical Expedition to the Southern Hemisphere, by J. M. Gilliss, Domeyko saysf : — P. 637. — "Less exact and certainly erroneous is the assertion of the author that the great Andean chain occupies two-thirds of the Republic. It is sufficient to consult the valuable map by Sefior Pissis accompanying the first volume of his work, to see that the Andes properly so-called do not occupy half the breadth of the territory in the province of Santiago, and further south beyond the Teno, the intermediate plain becomes so wide that the Andean chain does not form a third part of the territory." On p. 042 he writes, " Sefior Pissis indicates, however, in the province of Colchagua, masses similar to those of the central chain of the province of Santiago; and the introduction of these by Sefior Pissis is a very happy idea, as we shall presently have occasion to show, it being our purpose to exhibit the relation between the physical geography of Chile and its geology. But further south from the latitude at which, beyond the Teno, the intermediate plain widens and completely separates the Andes from the ( 'ordilleras de la Costa, those masses which constitute the central chain of the province of Santiago disappear, however much Mr. Gilliss might wish to prolong this chain to Chiloe', a1 the expense of the true Cordillera de la Costa. " But this mistake has led the chief of the expedition into another error, due to what he has read of the travels of Yon Tschudi in Bolivia and Peru, that in that part of South America there exist two chains of Cordilleras, one eastern, the other western; a statement which might have been found in all important exploration or geographical work, with the particularity that, generally, these two chains of Cordilleras are considered as tiro chains of the Andes, and without which it would not hare occurred to any one to confound them with the * Excursion ;i las Cordilleras do Copiapo, with a short treatise on the Fundamental Principles of the Geology of < Ihile, by Don Ignacio Domeyko, 184::, Santiago, pp. 23 and 24. t Domeyko, Estudios Geograficos sobre Chile. Critique on the North American work of Mr. Gilliss in the Kevista de Ciencias y Letras, vol. 1, No. 1, Santiago de Chile, 1857. Opinion of Scientific Men. 63 mountain range of the coast or Cordillera de la Costa, which form a separate system different from these from every point of view." In a Study of the surface of Chilian territory in relation to the geological character of the country,* Domeyko says : — P. 48. — " Included between the Pacific and the Andean watershed, this country forms the ivestem slope of the immense system of the Cordilleras which comprise two main chains of Serranias ; one more westerly, called the Maritime Cordillera (Cordillera literal — Cor- dillera de la Costa) ^and the other the Andes, properly so-called. The latter is the one which descends from the great Bolivian mass, where the two chains of the Andes of Upper Peru unite and from whence other branches strike off to the south-east." P. 49: — "In the third place, behind these Serranias the most compact chain of the Andes rises, the altitude of which is always double or treble that of the Maritime Cordillera ; mountains with precipitous slopes, dominated by domes or cone-like blocks covered with perpetual snow. " If we could now cast a rapid glance at these two Cordilleras from north to south, as far as the Magellans (lat. 54°) we should perceive that they both have their greatest elevation in their northern part, and that they vary very little in their relative altitudes between lat. 24° 23' and 33°. In this last latitude, and particularly between 32° and 34°, the Andes acquires its maximum elevation, dominated by Aconcagua, Tupungato and San Jose', in which the most elevated group of mountains in South America is found. From about lat. 34°, the two Cordilleras mainly preserve equal — relatively moderate — altitudes, gradually decreasing until, on reaching the latitude of Chiloe', they only retain a third of their previous altitudes. There they separate from each other ; what we call the " Mari- time " Cordillera changes into a series of islands, and the " Andes " jesses on to form the western boundary of the continent!' P. G8 : — "With respect to the rivers, it is natural that, owing to the double descent of the intermediate valley between the two chains of the Cordilleras, through the obstacles which the western places in the way of these rivers, and in consequence of the earthy sedimentary constitution of the plain, the innumerable rivers, creeks, and streams which descend from their sources to the base of the Andes are nothing but torrents, which, falling to the plains in the valley, are continued in its course ; the larger number of these rivers traverse the plain through deep gorges, in a diagonal direction (south-west), their beds continually expand, and tearing down the cliffs at their sides, leave large stretches ol their channels covered with huge pebbles and stones. From this configuration of the longitudinal valley, and owing to its greater slope towards the western Cordilllera, it also happens that these rivers unite their main branches in this valley, and concentrate the volume of their waters in one or two main streams bejore traversing the Cordillera and reaching the Pacific." P. 77 :—" Cordillera de los Andes. This Cordillera, between lat. 33° and 34° S., still preserves its magnificent profile, its lofty summits, its passes in the anterior zone, and only between parallels 34° and 35°, from which latitude it ceases sending out branches from Estudios geograficos sobre Chile, Reports, Santiago, 1875. 64 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. its brandies to the Maritime Cordillera, and the intermediary valley assumes its normal width, the general change in the altitude of the Andes in their whole extent takes place. From there the Cordillera contracts into a single narrower chain, and continues to descend gradually as it advances towards the south, without greatly changing its aspect and con- figuration, down to Reloncavi Bay." P. 80 : — " In the expedition of 1871, conducted by the Commander of the Chacahuco, Sefior Enrique Simpson, the Cordillera de los Andes ivas completely traversed via the river mid, transverse valley of the Ayien, in lat. 42° 25' S. and, further south, another easy pass was found through the valley of Huemules, lat. 45° 6' S. A pause must be made to call the special attention of the Tribunal to the fact just established by Domeyko. He describes the " Cordillera de los Andes'' in unerring terms, and then shows that it is crossed first by the Aysen at lat. 42 25' S., and further south by the Huemules at lat. 45° 6' S. The Cordillera, thus traversed by the two rivers, is, according to Domeyko, the boundary line accepted by every one at that time, and those facts were perfectly known to the framers of the Treaty of 1881, including Senor Barros Arana as geographer. But as Expert in 1890, the latter pretended to leave to the west the said Cordillera de los Andes, and to look for a boundary line in the plains of Patagonia. Like Pissis, Domeyko observes that the line which divides the waters of the summit (Cumbre) of the Cordillera is not found always on the lofty peaks, but he places it in the principal chain of the Cordillera, as is seen when he refers to the slope facing the Pampa. The intersection of two slopes forms the crest of the chain ; as regards the peaks which are detached on the east and west they are features very remarkable in themselves, but independent of the continuous crest of the Cordillera. He separates clearly the Cordillera de los Andes from that of the coast, and takes note of the discovery made by Captain Simpson in his exploration of the river Aysen, that this river completely crosses the Cordillera de los Andes, a fact which did not surprise him, since he could not ignore that similar phenomena are found in other mountain chains, as well as in the Cordillera de hi Costa, so familiar to him. A hook with a large circulation in Chile was the Diccionario Geografieo de la Republica de Chile, by Francisco Solano Asta-Buruaga (New York, 18G7), and in it arc indicated as the boundaries between Chile and the Argentine Republic, the ''slopes of the Andes," while the Cordillera de la Costa is considered separate from that of the Andes, which is described as a veritable Opinion of Scientific Men. 65 wall that can be crossed only by some passes and openings. The list of its principal heights there given, defines perfectly its character as the principal chain.* * Diccionario Geografico de la Bepublica de Chile, by Francisco Solano Asta-Buruaga. New York, 1867. P. 14. — "Andes (Cordillera de los). The vast backbone of Meridional America; .... The sec- tion of this great mountain chain' running from north to south through Chilian territory, commences in lat. 24° S. and terminates in Santa Agueda Cape in the Magellan, and, it may be said, in the islands of Cape Horn. As a whole, it is the most uniform and most salient, and contains the loftiest mountains of the whole Andean system. (See : Aconcagua, Descabezado, Juncal, S. Jose de Maipo, Tupungato, etc.) Its structure and configuration have not yet been properly determined, and it can only be stated that, generally, it consists of a chain of sierras stretched along the line of meridian, with a south-westerly inclination composed of stratified and tnetamorphic rocks upheaved by eruptive ones, through volcanic action, which, at onetime, must have been extremely violent. From its main knots, there branch off from the west, ramifications which, north of Chacabuco, mingle with the intermediate sierras or secondary chains of the coast, and south of the same, it rarely approaches them (see article on Chile) ; its main width is not less than a degree of equatorial longitude, prominent in the centre, and between the slopes of which it leaves lengthy valleys and dales, where the numerous cascades and streams, proceeding from its glaciers and snow -caps, unite and give rise to the principal rivers of Chile. The elevation of this Cordillera projects grandly on its western side, presenting a lofty and beautiful relief, crowned by gigantic peaks, and clothed at all seasons with thick snow. Its most notable mountains or summits are the following, mostly active volcanoes, perhaps, in remote times, but to-day only the Antuco, Chilian, Osorno and Villa Eica are of this nature, the following showing signs of activity, particularly at their base, viz. the Descabezado, Llullaillaco, Maipo, Planchon, S. Jose de Maipo, Tinguiririca and Yaima. Names of Mountains or Hills. Latitude. Longitude. Altitude. Names of Mountains or Hills. Latitude. Longitude. Altitude. O ' O ' metres ■ * metres Llullaillaco . 24 15 1 54 E. 5600 Descabezado 35 25 15 W. 4500 Come-Caballos or Longavi 35 50 20 3100 Barrancas Blancas 27 30 1 12 4450 Chilian (Nevado de) 36 30 22 3200 Dona Ana 30 00 46 4526 Antuco .... 37 07 30 2800 Cuzco .... 32 18 15 3922 Imperial 6 Yaima 38 50 1 25 3000 Aconcagua . 32 40 36 6834 Villa Pica . 39 14 1 22 4875 Juncal .... 33 04 33 5995 Einihue 6 Lajara 39 54 1 24 3800 Plomo .... 33 19 31 5433 Puyehue 40 49 1 48 2200 Tupungato . 33 23 55 6710 Osorno .... 41 09 1 58 2302 San Jose de Maipo 33 45 44 5532 Tronador 41 15 1 40 3000 San Pedro Nolasco 33 55 17 ;;:;:;:i Calbuco 41 22 2 00 2250 Maipo .... 34 11 49 5384 Minchinmavida . 42 48 1 56 2440 Alto de Mineros . 34 41 26 4935 Corcovado . 43 12 2 10 2290 Tinguiririca . 34 50 15 4478 Yan teles 43 29 2 12 2050 Damas .... 35 00 11 3099 Sarmiento . 54 27 10 2074 Peteroa 6 Planchon . 35 12 05 3819 This majestic Cordillera, except where it is fissured in the Straits of Magellan and among the channels of Tierra del Fuego, is so compact in its concatenation that throughout the long extension of Chile it offeis no other passage by means of which it cm be crossed except the undulations in its ridge, the highest elevation or crest of which, always a considerable one, marks the watershed, to reach which it is necessary to penetrate through the openings and gorges of the streams flowing down from them into the valleys; and it is for this reason the latter are called " passes " or " defiles." The most notable, commencing on the north, are the Come-Caballos, S. Guillermo or Naturales, Dona Ana, Eapel, Calderon, Piuquenes, Patos, Uspallata, Pinquenes de San Jose, Maipo, Yeso, Tinguiririca, Damas, Planchon, Descabezado, Alico, Antuco, Angol, Villa Eica, Einihue, Tronador, etc. Only a few of these passes, the dry ones, can be crossed." P. 26. — " Atacama (Desert of). An arid and desolate region — the Sahara of America — lying between the K 66 Divergences in the Cordillera dc los Andes. 5. OPINION OF OTHER WRITERS. Sefior Francisco Javier Rosales, a notable man of Chile, in his Apuntes sobre Chile * — dedicated to his fellow-citizens — says : — " The Government will doubtless have attentively examined all the rights which might entitle them to declare the greater i>art of the territory of the Strait to be national property. I am not acquainted with those reasons ; and all I have before me is, first, that the Constitution of the State, in defining the territory of the Republic, says in Chapter I. 'that it extends from Atacama to Cape Horn, and from the Cordillera de los Andes to the Pacific Ocean! This declaration indicates in a practical way that the boundaries must be considered as being along the summits or crests of the rami,, no mattei whether it be of greater or lesser altitude so long as it be the same chain of mountains which runs from north to south along the American continent:' Senor 1>. Vicuna Mackenna, one of the most illustrious Chilian writers, in his pamphlet Le Chili (Paris, 1855), has given his opinion on the limits of Chile in these clear terms : — " You are always near your native land, you are not obliged to bury yourself some hundreds of miles in the interior as in other countries. The Andes surround you on all sides, the Andes therefore will make you remain there. In no other country, the boundaries of which have been traced by politics or history, has it ever been done in Facific and the Andes under the tropic of Capricorn, occupying a vast extension on the northern limits of Chile and the southern limits of Bolivia. Corresponding to the first, is the part included on the south of lat. 24° ("see article on Chile), the length of which is not less than 300 kilometres from north to south, with a main width of at least 100°. It presents a surface covered by Serranias, hare of vegetation, which expand into tablelands and rise in isolated ridges, forming a succession of ridges and plains, cut by frequent and deep ravines. " Towards the base of the Andes it contains extensive and almost dry salinas, or salt lakes, around which some vegetation is found, and hardy plants, such as the rush, grow; notable among them is the oue called Puuta Negia, situated on the west of the Llullaillaco volcano, and is 2400 metres above the level of the sea ; it is not less than fifty kilometres in length and thirty in width, and in its vicinity, to the north, Seiior Philippi found a large quantity of meteoric iron." I'. 7S. — "Copiapo (Department of), belonging to the Province of Atacama, its capital being also the capital of the province. On the north, it is the northern extremity of Chile ; it is bounded on the south by i he department of Vallenar, by the Sierra which, from Mount Manilas, runs westward, dividing the declivities of the rivers Guasco and Copiapo, up to the point called Boqueron ; on the west, by the department ■>(' Caldera; on the east, by the Andes, whore Mounts Llullaillaco, Manilas and others are found, in which the following passes open out: Paipote, Come-Caballos or Fulido, Pueblo del Inca, and some less explored ones, which open a passage to the Argentine Republic." Paris, 1849, printed by Bernard and Co. (The Mercantile Gazette of Bueuos Aires, 1850). Opinion of Other Writers. 67 such a beautiful, so perfect and so magnificent a way as in Chile, and this, not by politics, but by Nature, by the hand of God. Two deserts, the ocean and the largest mountains of the universe, these are its boundaries " While the potato, that, without doubt, is indigenous to Chile, grows wild on the summit of the mountains of Nahuelbuta, at Concepcion, it produces itself in perfect beauty in tlie valley of Aconcagua, so that one can only say that in the Chilian Andes, or more properly in the icestern slopes of the Andes which we call Chile, grow all temperate plants, all cereals all vegetables, and all trees for fruit and ornament " The general topography of the country presents one characteristic, viz. the western slope of the Andes, which commences in the regions of the eternal snows and descends gradually to the shores of the sea." In a lecture given also by Sefior Vicuna Mackenna at the Travellers' Club in New York,* on the Present Condition and Prospects of Chile, on the 23rd December, 1865, he said : — " In the first place, Chile has its boundaries laid out as if by the hand of God, for forming a single nation Chile has no nieghbours, properly speaking. Its limits are almost impassable to all nations. On the east the lofty Andes, covered with eternal snow; at the north the Desert of Atacama, a wilderness of GOO miles, where neither man nor animal, nor even the hardiest of plants can live; on the south the boundless plains of savage and unknown Patagonia ; on the west, its only vulnerable side, the mighty Pacific Ocean." Sefior Vicente Perez Rosales f (a Chilian) in his Essai sur le Chili, says : — " Western Chile, the consideration of which is the sole object of this essay, is con- tained between the parallel of Mejillones on the frontier of Bolivia, Cape Horn, the culminating line of the Andes, and the Pacific Ocean. To this section belong the islands of Juan Fernandez, Masafuera, Santa Maria, Mocha, and the Archipelago of Ancud, Guaitecas, Chonos, and Tierra del Fuego. " At Cape Froward the continent of Western Chile commences, and it terminates at Mejillones on the frontier of Bolivia. " In traversing the coast from north to south one comes upon an arid desert enclosed between the vast chain of the Andes and the sandy dunes that border the Pacific. This is the Desert of Atacama ; it embraces the whole extent of the country as far as the base of these colossal mountains, and it ought to be considered as^one of the greatest benefits * SeSor Vicuna Mackenna was, at that time, the Special Chilian Envoy to the United States Govern- ment ; his lecture, therefore, is all the more important. f Hamburg, 1857. At the time when SeSor Perez Eosales wrote, Chile was claiming Patagonia, which was then called by Chile " Eastern or Transandine Chile." K 2 68 Divergences in the Cordillera tie los Andes. that nature has accorded to Chile, by establishing an impassable barrier between that country and the adjacent on> s. " The dreary aspect of the coasts as far as the latitude of Coquimbo, would be even more dismal than that of Patagonia, without the presence of the Cordilleras, the heights of which, covered with glistening snow, stand out against the azure of the pure atmosphere " Western Chile may be considered as the downward slope of the Andes which descends gradually to the Pacific Ocean. The first parallel would represent this powerful chain, the second, the mountains known under the name of Cordillera del Medio, and the third, the mountains of the coast, that are also called ' Cordilleras de la Costa? " Senor Jose Victorino Lastarria (the ex-Minister Plenipotentiary of Chile to the Argentine Republic) in his Lecciones de Geografia Moderna, a work highly appreciated in Chile, and approved by the University of Santiago as an educa- tional text-book, says : — " The Republic of Chile, situated on the south-western portion of South America, extends from the Atacama Desert to Cape Horn. The great chain of the Andes separates it on the east from the Argentine Confederation, and it is washed by the Pacific Ocean on the west.'' Senor Miguel Luis Amunategui in his book, La Dictadura de O'Higgins, writes as follows : — " The Andes, that colossal bulwark with which God has protected our country on the east." And, in the Biografia de Don Manuel Salas, he added — " The fertile land of Chile, which lies beneath the most beautiful sky in the world, protected on the east by a gigantic Cordillera, and washed on the west by a calm and stormless sea." And, in his Reconquista Espafiola, the following passage occurs :— " How did General San Martin traverse the Andes, that stupendous natural barrier which God has fixed between the two countries? .... That colossal barrier which separates Chile from the Argentine Provinces, on which reigns a perpetual winter, has all the dangers of the ocean without possessing any of its advantages." Don Manuel Antonio Matta, one of the most distinguished public men of Chile, in treating of the difficult question of limits, in an interesting book,* says : " On the southern frontiers, one does not see, although it may he indicated, the continuous backbone of the Andes, which there becomes lower, and interrupted, and * Manuel Antonio Matta, La Cuestios Chileno-Argentiua, Santiago ile Chile, 1874, p. 60. Opinion of Other Writers. 69 until a short time ago was thought to be more broken up than it really is. Recent explorations have in great measure confirmed that belief, as may be seen by the diary of his journey by Commander Enrique Simpson, which proved that the river Aysen, at lat. 45° 25' S., crosses the Andes ; " and taking these facts into account, proposed to the two countries to settle the question of boundaries in this manner : — P. 96. — " The Argentine Republic, a continental country, and which faces the Atlantic, and possesses there her interests and her future ; for this reason, and by reason of the well grounded claims which she has proved over that portion of territory, as well as for reasons of continuity, contiguity, and facilities, might, and it is even perhaps true to say, ought to receive all that is found to the east of the real or ideal line of the summit of the Andes, as far as parallel lat. 50° S., recouping herself with the whole of the interior of Patagonia for the part of that territory and for Tierra del Fuego which were left to Chile, a maritime country which finds both convenience and her own interests in the colonisation of those islands, a colonisation which she has tried, and in part accomplished." And as a last quotation, it will now be well to recall the words of Senor Gaspar Toro,* the Secretary of Legation of Senor Barros Arana himself, when he was Minister of Chile in the Argentine Republic, whilst he was negotiating the Treaties of 1876 and 1878 :— " The great Cordillera de los Andes, which runs through all America, comes down uninterrupted as far as Llanquihue, on the southern boundary of Patagonia. In its pro- longation towards the south, it is intersected and disappears in some places, and, in others, it opens out, and splits up into branches, which stretch out their spurs far into the interior of Patagonia, or else hide their bases in the Pacific, their crests forming the islands of the coast. There any anticlinal line or divortia aquarium seems to be effaced : the waters flow in every direction, through large valleys, considerable lakes, high and vast table-lands, until they empty themselves, some in the Pacific and others in the Atlantic. Where does the great Cordillera definitely end ? According to some, at Cape Froward, which advances into the Strait, a little to the south-west of Punta Arenas; according to others at Cape Providencia, fifty leagues to the west of it, or somewhat to the north of this cape ; and according to others, the mountains of Tierra del Fuego form part of the same Andean system, of which the definite end would be the chain bearing Mounts Sarmiento and Darwin, near Cape Horn." Not a single one of the Chilian writers or geographers, as it has been seen, has ever disagreed in the knowledge of the " Cordillera de los Andes " as the boundary line between Chile and the Argentine Republic. All and every one * La Diplomacia Chileno- Argentina en la Cuestion de Liruites, por Gaspar Toro, Santiago de Chile , 1879, p. 10. 70 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. of them have always understood by " Cordillera" or " Cordillera de los Andes," the lofty crest, the impassable barrier, the Avail made by God to divide the two countries. Not only in the quotations made has the definition of the Cordillera been clearly expressed, but they also show that the " Cordillera de los Andes " was at all times looked upon as the safeguard of Chile on the eastern side. The Treaty of 1881 has laid down the line so well defined by Senor Matta, but now the Chilian Expert proposes to leave to the west both slopes of the Cordillera, and to place a frontier in the plains of Patagonia. It is not possible to accept such a proposition, contrary to tradition, to the occupation of the land, and opposed to future tranquillity. The Chilian Representative, however, has entered into some considerations to support the claims of Senor Barros Arana, quoting a few authors of more or less importance whose phrases, he thinks, harmonise with those claims. Though this is not the case, and though the complete transcriptions already put before the Tribunal would suffice to prove that no one has ever doubted that the boundary line is the summits of the Cordillera, as it has been also stated by Senor Alejandro Bertrand,* nevertheless, being convenient to unhinge all the assertions in the statement read by the Representative of Chile, a brief account of the matter is presented here. The extracts therein contained from geographers and statesmen refer to watershed, and starting from this single fact, it is taken for granted that those geographers and statesmen speak of the continental divide, and that they think it is possible to swerve the Cordillera de los Andes in the marking out of the international frontier. Observation, however, proves it to be otherwise. The case presented by this boundary dispute would be an anomalous, unique and exceptional one, inasmuch as, on one side, a number of passages, which clearly and luminously point out that the boundary must be sought in the edge or upper ridge of the main chain of the Andes, are cited, while on the other hand, allusion is made to authorities mentioning the divortium aquarum. It would be an anomalous and unique case, not precisely on account of the dis- similitude of the opinions — which is of frequent occurrence in relation to any question whatsoever — but because the supporters of the one and the other * Estudio tecnico, p. 18. Opinion of Other Writers. 7 1 theory did not themselves take into account that they were advancing different doctrines. Furthermore, it is not unusual to find in the writings of authors cited by the Chilian Representative explicit references to the crest of the Cordillera, though on other occasions they may have referred to the divortium aquarum of the Cordillera. Unless it be shown that there exists obvious and gross contra- diction in their opinions, one must conclude that, when the divortium aqudrurn is defined, they intend to indicate that part of the main chain where its water- shed occurs. In fact, when a few statesmen and geographers have spoken about the watershed of the Cordillera, they have meant, as could not be other- wise, the watershed in the main and central chain, and not any of the many other watersheds that may exist, and do exist, in any region either level or mountainous. It seems superfluous to enlarge on definitions of simple points, and to repeat that there are many varieties of watersheds, from a continental water-parting to that of the streams flowing to the tributaries of the same river ; it is not, however, superfluous to recall that the very Experts of the Chilian Republic maintained the truth of this assertion prior to, and after the signing of, the Treaty of 1881.* * The Chilian Expert, Senor Barros Arana, has stated that, " Each one (speaking of the rivers) has its water s,\ stern, bed or basin, that is to say, the whole country whose waters form it; that of an important river which reaches to the sea, is called principal ; that of a medium river, secondary ; and that of other much smaller rivers, tertiary ; the boundaries dividing these areas, or fluvial regions, bear the name of watershed liDes." * Consequently, in each region the watershed presents particular aspects and conditions, according as it is a principal, secondary or tertiary division. Senor Bertrand, in describing, in 1884, the Atacama Cordilleras, expressed himself as follows: "North of the 28th degree a new hydrographical conformation is presented, consisting in independent basins or beds whose waters do not visibly feed any rivers whatever, and which are, moreover, separated from their neighbours by rising ground. This conformation is the predominant. one in the high plains of Atacama, of Salta and Jujuy, of Lipez, Chichas and Oruro; it is evidenced by a bifurcation of the Andean divortia aquarum into two branches; that to the west marks the boundary of the streams flowing towards the Pacific sea-board, the eastern indicates those which, directly or indirectly, proceed to the Atlantic. These two branches of the divortia aquarum are very winding ; have very acute internal angles, such as those forming the source of the Rio San Francisco or Fiambala, and the Bio de San Juan Mayo, and do not unite except at the 14J degree of latitude, at which point the divortium aquarum recovers its unity and preserves it to the northern extremity of the Andes. Between the two principal branches into which the water-partiug bifurcates, are many others forming the divide between the various basins or beds of ichicli we have spoken. Some of these are very extensive, as those of Lakes Titicaca and Poopo, and others, such as the chief number of those forming the southern part of the high plateau with which we are occupied, extremely restricted." f The Chilian Bepresentative, in speaking before this Tribunal, abounded in extracts and passages which more and more confirmed the idea that watersheds vary in the same way as the nature of the phenomena which produce them. "If it were claimed," he said, "that this phrase means only the summits dividing a * Elementos de Geografia Fisica, by Diego Barros Arana, 3rd edition, Santiago, 1881, p. 124. t Memoria sobre las Cordilleras del Desierto de A taenia, by Alejandro Bertrand, Santiago, 1885, p. 200. 72 Divergences in the Cordillera dc los Andes. If, therefore, and as the Chilian Representative states, there are so many watersheds, one must not, nor can one, conclude therefrom that the fact alone of speaking of watersheds implies reference to the South American water-divide, but, on the contrary, just as the South American Continent and the Cordillera arc different things, so also the Continental divortia aquarum and the divortia aquarum of the Cordillera de los Andes are different, although in many parts they concur. The statesmen and geographers who, although they refer to the Chilian boundary as being the crest of the Andes, speak at the same time of the divortia aquarum, could not have referred to any other divide than that which takes place in that crest. If one examines carefully, and with an unprejudiced mind, the facts cited by the Chilian Representative, one will find that, notwithstanding the form in which they have been presented, none of them support the Chilian doctrine. 1. Speaking of the Congress of Lima, he stated that it was there laid down — " That the delimitation of frontiers between those different States (Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Ecuador and Colombia) should be carried out by searching for natural lines, such as the water-parting summits, or the thalweg of the rivers." But " the water-parting summits " — assuming the translation to be correct — is not the Continental divide. The Congress took notice of the summits, but not of the isolated peaks which disperse the waters on all sides ; took notice of the uninterrupted crests at the intersection of the two inclined planes of a chain, an intersection which naturally divides the waters of the same ; they did not refer to the watershed of the Atlantic and Pacific basins. 2. The Instructions given on October 10, 1848, by the Government of Chile to Senor A. Pissis, " to make the survey for a topographic map of the country," are said to be in harmony with the doctrine of the continental divide, the con- sequence of which is that the ridge of the Cordillera de los Andes, and even the Cordillera itself, is departed from. This is not the case, however. " Senor Pissis," the instructions read, " shall devote particular attention to the Cor- dillera de los Andes, which he shall examine in the most thorough manner possible in certain part of the waters, it would be useless, as it would leave the problem of delimitation as vague as before; for, although there is only one general water-divide, not crossed by any water-course, there arc an indefinite number of secondary divides, amongst which the selection would have to be made, if such an interpretation were accepted." Opinion of Other Writers. 73 order to establish with precision the edge or culminating line which separates the slopes that descend to the Argentine Provinces from those that water the Chilian territory." Thus, it is to the Cordillera de los Andes, and not to the South American continent, and within the Cordillera, to its edge or culminating line, that Senor Pissis was to devote his attention. In this edge, in this culminating line, the intersection of the two opposite slopes must be sought. If the Instructions of the 10th October, 1848, supports the claim of either of the two countries, it is certainly not that of the country which departing from the Andes and its crest occupies itself, independent of the mountain barrier, with water-divides only. The message in which President Bulnes informed the Chilian Congress upon the commission entrusted to Senor Pissis has also been invoked as an argument in support of the Chilian contention, but this can easily be disproved. It reads as follows : — "It was an imperative necessity to have an exact map, which, while exhibiting the geological and mineralogical features of Chile, marked out all the most notable points of the country, their altitudes above the level of the sea, and the culminating line of the Cordillera between the slopes that descend to the Argentine Provinces and those that water the Chilian territory." The culminating line of the Cordillera is not the line where the continental divide is sometimes produced in the Argentine plains. Senor Pissis carried out his mission as has been stated, with the natural errors of detail which, in view of the magnitude of the work, were to be expected, confining himself, however, to the tenor of the orders received. He gives us in his survey of the Cordillera de los Andes the precise features of the great range ; his map shows us the crest of its main chain as he knew and understood it, without taking into account the borders of the water-basins when they present on the edge of the range abnormal characters.* When he wrote his book, Chile harboured pretensions over Patagonia, so that he was obliged to use caution in delineating the eastern boundary, preferring to leave it undetermined. This notwithstanding, outside of Patagonia, where no controversy existed, he indicated that the frontier was formed, not by the line of separation between the Atlantic and Pacific water-courses, but " by the anticlinal line of the Cordillera de los Andes " — a very different matter, certainly, and which corroborates the Argentine contention. * In Sheet No. 9 of the map of Pissis is shown the boundary line cutting an eastern affluent of the river NuLle. • 74 Divergences in the Cordillera dc los Andes. 3. The quotations made by the Chilian Representative from the other geographers of his country, Gay, Asta-Buruaga and Domeyko, whose works have already been analysed with the minuteness required, are not very pertinent to the question, and it is, therefore, unnecessary to revert to them in detail here. (Jay, when in the text of his book he sets forth the limits of the country, does not mention the waters in any sense whatever, and he simply states that — "Chile is separated from the Argentine Repuhlic by those immense Cordilleras which extend, without interruption, on all the western side of South America." Asta-Buruaga, after having stated that Chile is distinguished among other things by the majesty of the Andes, adds that on the east she is separated " from the Argentine Republic by the dividing line of the slopes of the Andes." The continental divide is not, therefore, his standard rule. Sometimes, it is true, this geographer mentions the watershed, but when doing so he seems to have anticipated giving rise to equivocal interpretations, and hastens to give his idea in its entirety, stating that this watershed is not that of the hydrographic basins, nor that of the spurs of the Cordillera, nor that of the plains, but that of the highest crests. "This majestic Cordillera," he writes, "except where it is fissured in the Straits of Magellan and among the channels of Tierra del Fuego, is so compact in its concatenation that throughout the long extension of Chile, it offers no other passage by means of which it can be crossed except the undulations in its ridge, the highest elevation or crest of tohich — . The Chilian Representative has lingered over the investigation of sundry communications exchanged in 1873 between the Ministers of the Argentine and Chilian Republics, part of them relating to the possession of Patagonia and part to the possession of valleys in the Cordillera itself. It is proper to observe, although only in passing, that some of the valleys under dispute at that date* not only are situated east of the main chain of the Andes, not only are they situated east of its watershed, but, moreover, they are situated east ot the continental divide. The Chilian Representative insists, notwithstanding his acknowledgment that these valleys are situated to the east of the continental divide, on proving that the traditional boundary, always recognised as such, was, without dis- crepancy of any kind, that of the said continental divide. The contradiction could not be more obvious. If the continental divide had been unanimously accepted, as is claimed for it, Chile could not have extended her territory east of said line ; if Chile extended her jurisdiction to the other side of the continental divide, it is because that divide did not mark the international frontier. It will be seen further on that the Chilian Government, even after the signing of the Protocol of 1«S9'J, continued claiming valleys to the east of the water-parting of the Continent. Now, putting aside this consideration, it must be noted that in the official notes exchanged by the Ministers, the w r ater-systems of the Pacific and the Atlantic not only were not upheld or recognised as boundary line, but, on the contrary, special care was taken to mention the highest crest of the Cordillera, so that, subsequently, reference might be made to the particular watershed of said crest. The statement of the Governor of Mendoza would not have been brought forward by the Chilian Republic had there not existed the constant tendency of confounding a mountain watershed with the water-divide of a continent, Ibid., p. 155. Opinion of Other Writers. 77 dependent or independent as the case may be, of mountain features. It is true that in that statement the courses of waters, rivers and streams are mentioned, but it is not said that the boundary runs through their sources, as some proceed to the Pacific and others to the Atlantic — it is said, on the contrary, that " the greatest heights from which these " rivers start are what has always been " considered as the boundary between the two territories." Mention is afterwards made of the difficulties arising from the existence of " two Cordilleras of equal height," and from the torrents which are formed " when the thawing of the snow begins in the great chain of the Cordilleras " ; the case of " the two main Cordilleras being found " is again laid stress upon ; the case of the streams which have their origin " in the main Cordillera del Planchon " is considered, and it is then added : " Further evidence in favour of the crests of the Cordillera de los Andes and the slopes on either side being the boundary with the Republic of Chile is the fact that all the private properties of this province situated in the interior of the range, considered these as the boundary to the ivest; this fact has never been disputed." The representative of Chile afterwards quotes the opinion of the Argentine Minister in Chile, Don Felix Frias, contained in this paragraph: — " ' Your Government ' (that of Chile) said he to the Minister of Foreign Affairs, ' has agreed that the Andes are the eastern boundary of Chile, and when speaking of the demarcation of the frontier they referred to the operation of marking out in the Andes themselves the divortium aquarum, that is, the boundary line between both countries, an operation of Experts that has not as yet been carried out." Such is the passage, and it could not be clearer. It does not say that it is right to go out of the Cordillera to seek on the Argentine pampas the normal or abnormal sources of the livers and streams that run in opposite directions to pour their waters into the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. The summit of the Cordilleras de los Andes constitutes the boundary, and in it must be sought the divortium aquarum of the Treaties. If there were room for a single doubt it would have to disappear by a simple observation. The words transcribed above form part of a long note in which hundreds of arguments are brought forward to defend the natural boundary formed by the immense masses of the Cordillera. It is often repeated in this note that the frontier runs over k ' the culminating line of the Cor- dillera," over " the great walls of the Cordillera,*' over " the frozen Andes which serve us as a barrier," " over the immense and almost inaccessible Cordillera," over the " chain of towering mountains covered by eternal snow," etc. 78 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. The Representative of Chile has mentioned, in Sefior Frias, an enlightened defender of the Argentine doctrine, and has quoted just the document in which there is the greatest agglomeration of proofs against any theory that could in any way claim to carry the frontier outside the Cordillera and away from its highest crest. Sefior Frias examined old colonial papers and modern extracts from writers of every country, to come to the conclusion that on the crest and only on the crest should the boundaries of the two Republics be marked out, and that, to use his own words, " if there are in the world boundaries that deserve the name of natural, it is those high and prolonged chains of mountains which traverse the whole extent of America." But in spite of the explicit terms of Sefior Frias" categorical statement, there would appear to be an intention of making it har- monise with a theory which partly does away with the main chain of the Andes in order to enclose within a line never agreed upon, great areas of the southern plains of Argentina. As the first paragraph mentioned does not meet this end, it has been thought necessary to enunciate another which is even less compatible with that doctrine. " Respecting the inaccuracy which your Excellency believes to exist in the topo- graphical maps of Sefior Pissis/' wrote Minister Frias, " Your Excellency will allow me to say that the Government of Chile here also appears in contradiction with themselves, since this gentleman has done nothing else but cany out the official instructions given him, as appears from the contract to which I have before referred, marking out on the Andes the anticlinal or dividing line of the waters." -*& Sefior Frias considered that the anticlinal line of the Cordillera, which nobody will seek on the eastern plains, was the dividing line of the waters to which he alluded, and he explained his thought by adding : — " For the Government of Chile has understood, like everybody else, in accordance with a universally adopted international rule, that when a mountain or Cordillera separates two countries, the boundary between them is marked on the crests by the watershed." The principal and most important element is the crests, to Sefior Frias' mind, and 011 the crests the watershed. There is nothing resembling the inter-oceanic water-parting, or anything like it, in the reply, also quoted, by the Chilian Minister, Sefior Ibafiez, who refers, as he himself has written, to "the divortium aquarum in these mountains" (the Cordillera de los Andes), and not to the separation of the hydrographic basins of the rivers tributary of the Atlantic on one side, and of the Pacific on the other. Opinion of Other Writers. 79 It appears needless to continue an examination of the documents to which the Representative of Chile attributes such capital importance. They are all made on the same basis ; they all follow one identical purpose. Among them, however, there is one in which an evident error has given rise to comments which it is necessary to refute. The Minister for Foreign Affairs of the Argentine Republic, Senor Tejedor, in a Report sent to Congress, said : — " There has always been a common and traditional understanding that the jurisdictions of Chile and Rio de la Plata were by right delimitated by the crest of the Cordillera de los Andes, running from north to south, down to the Straits of Magellan, and from parallel lat. 41° 10' S., where this natural feature ceases, by the line dividing the waters flowing down towards both seas, taking for this purpose the middle between the points where sources or traces of waters are found, and to the south ending this line the most prominent point of the continent, i.e. Cape Froward, more or less on 53° 50' S." Senor Tejedor states, as is seen, that whenever the Cordillera is the boundary its crest must be followed ; that this has been a common and traditional under- standing, and that only where the Cordillera ceases must the divortium aquarum be followed. The Representative of Chile transcribes the paragraph, and deduces therefrom that Senor Tejedor is a partisan of the inter-oceanic divide all along the frontier, where the Cordillera exists, and where the Cordillera does not exist. The absence of logic is evident. The idea expressed for cases in which the Andean barrier disappears cannot be applied to the cases in which it displays its grandeur and majesty, and the reasoning is still less logical when the author has himself undertaken to say — " that the jurisdiction of Chile and Rio de la Plata were by right delimitated by the crest of the Cordillera de los Andes, running from north to south, down to the Straits of Magellan." It is, indeed, stated that the Cordillera disappears to the south of parallel 41° 10', but it can easily be seen that this statement is due to a printer's error. It is inconceivable that the crest of the Cordillera de los Andes should be said to serve as a boundary as far as the Strait of Magellan, as stated by Senor Tejedor, and that, in the next line, it should be added that the Cordillera dis- appears at parallel 41° 10', distant twelve degrees latitude to the north of the same strait. The contradiction would be inexplicable. Facts prove that the Cordillera extends along the whole western edge of 80 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. America, and the Treaty of 1881 has respected it as a frontier as far as parallel 52°. Up to there, if Sefior Tejedor's words apply, the crest of the chain must unfailingly be followed, and never any other doctrine imagined for regions in which mountains are not found. 6. The Representative of Chile also appeals — always with the idea that, whenever the divortium aquarum is mentioned, reference is made to the continental divortium — to the project presented to the Argentine Senate in 1871, which con- tains the following expressions : " the divortium aquarum in the Cordillera de los Andes"; "the divortium aquarum in the crests of the Andes." The clearness of the texts is such that their meaning cannot be doubted. When the divortium aquarum is determined on a range of mountains, and localised on the crests of it, it cannot be understood, by implication, that the crests may be abandoned, and that the range may also be abandoned in favour of the plains. The authors of the project fixed their eyes on the Cordillera, on its gigantic crests, as a principal feature which ought to be taken into account, and then determined that on those crests, and never swerving from them, their own peculiar divortium aquarum should be sought. 7. The next quotation of the Chilian Representative is from a book entitled La Provincia de San Juan en la Exposicion de Cordoba (Geography and Sta- tistics), in which the following phrase is found : — " Boundaries and demarcation of the province : to the west the high central chain of the Cordillera de los Andes, or dividing line of the waters which separates it from the province of Aconcagua and Coquimbo in the Republic of Chile." The phrase used by the author, Senor Igarzabal, cannot be more conclusive — the divide on the high central chain ; and that, it is needless to say, is not the continental divortium aquarum. The line agreed upon by the two Experts on October 1, 1898, passes along the edge of that central chain, which is the same that the Chilian Expert has ever considered as such boundary in his works as geographer, historian and expert. 8. Senor Antonio Bermejo has been no less conclusive in his writings, and yet the Representative of Chile has also quoted him. The paragraphs in which he believes reference is made to the continental divide, far from meeting: that conception, state once more the idea that the boundary runs over the upper crest of the Cordillera, that the natural and impassable boundary is constituted by the enormous masses of that Cordillera. The words quoted from Sefior Bermejo are the following : — Opinion of O titer Writers. 81 " The demarcation between the Argentine and Chilian possessions on the crests of the Andes, is connected with the discussion about the Cordillera grazing lands (potreros) which we proceed to examine. The high mountains of the Andes, extending to the extreme south of the continent, separate in a diametrically opposite direction the waters which fertilise the territories lying on either side of them. Seeing the extent of the Cordilleras, which are of considerable breadth throughout nearly their whole length, it is necessary to adopt as regards the valleys comprised in them, a line of demarcation awarding these equitably and rationally to the frontier nations. In this case the dividing line of the waters or the divortium aquarum, fixed as the boundary by all writers, determined a clear and convenient basis for the delimitation of the territorial sovereignty. Moreover, many publicists, such as Bluntschli, show that even in doubtful cases the dividing line of the waters constitutes the legal boundary." It must be observed that in the Statement read by the representative of Chile the first passage of the paragraph has been omitted, and hence the erroneous conclusion which has been arrived at. In the way it has been presented the quotation would seem to strengthen the Chilian argument; but had it been cited in its integrity, the result should have been contrary to what it was designed to prove in the Statement. Sefior Bermejo enunciates, in the suppressed passage, that he is going to study the rules of demarcation " on the crests of the Andes" and nobody has ever raised any doubt as to the fact that the feature which, on that crest, must be taken into account is the separating line of the waters which fall from the height down the opposite slopes of the chain. Besides, and even though this first paragraph did not exist, it would not be possible to doubt the meaning of the author, noticing that reference is made to " the elevated mountains of the Andes," and that he grounds his conclusions on the opinion of Bluntschli, who, as will be seen further on, is very explicit re- garding the Argentine contention. And since the Representative of Chile has thought fit to mention Sefior Bermejo's book, to define the views which that statesman had on the Andean boundary, it may be well to complete the quota- tions by other parts of the same book, where every attempt to abandon the snow-capped crests of the Cordillera is repudiated, and therefore the continental divide is repudiated too. The following are the passages : — " Imaginary lines may be encroached upon at any moment, but the real boundary made by Nature herself on the highest crests in America/although it may open a passage to the telegraph for the confraternisation of the two peoples in the fruitful work of progress, also raises between the frontiers of the Argentine Republic and Chile all its colossal grandeur, to tell both nations that God has condemned the suggestions of ambition and covetousness. The preservation of the natural and traditional boundaries forms, in my opinion, something like an ineludible law of history, a law which defeats the arrange- M 82 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. ments of cabinets and at the same time scorns the preponderating power of war, armed with the right of conquest, raising upon the ephemeral lines planned by the conqueror and the politician, tbe immovable line of the Supreme Ordainer of the worlds Thus also the Argentine nation and Chile in peace and in war, with or without arbitrations, will necessarily stop at the snow-capped crests of the Andes with which Providence has defended their soil. Chilians and Argentines, without rancour or prejudice, will seek each other then to seal on that gigantic altar their eternal alliance, consecrating in deference to right, peace and justice the boundary marked out by the hand of God between the two Republics." * 9. The Representative of Chile concludes his enumeration of opinions previous to the Treaty of 1881, by mentioning two maps, the one which he attributes to Burmeister and that of the Commission presided over by Don Ricardo Napp. In both, it is stated, the boundary is made by the line of the continental divortium, while the truth is that neither of the two maps has any bearing on the pending controversy. With reference to the first, the Chilian Statement says that Dr. Burmeister has made " a map of that Republic (the Argentine) down to laf. 40°, which teas considered the best cartographic document of that country." As a matter of fact. however, Dr. Burmeister did not publish such a map, and therefore the argument falls through. The map by the Argentine Central Committee for the Exhibition at Philadelphia has no importance in the controversy. It is added to a work entitled The Argentine Republic, and the author, Sehor Napp, writes con- cerning it : — " It appears superfluous to state here once more that these last data, however accurate now, cannot be considered as definitive, which remark also applies to the annexed map, on account of the said boundary questions. We must also observe that the inter- provincial boundaries, as they stand in our map, may perhaps require certain modifications in the course of time, because, like the international ones, they are not yet fixed with precision. The object of this map and of this book cannot be to give an opinion or advice respecting the territorial claims of the provinces or confederate states of the Argentine RejMblie ; but, having to show these boundaries in our map, we have consulted the special report of the special commission appointed by the National Senate for the purpose of inquiring into these questions, and although it has not yet been passed by Congress, it has served as a basis — as far as possible — in our map, respecting both the interprovincial boundaries and those of the national territories, their names and division ; though we do not in any way claim to anticipate the definite decision of Congress. It is not improbable that in * La Cuestion Chilena y el Arbitrage, by Antonio Borniojo, 1879, Buenos Aires, pp. 59 and 60. Opinion of Other IVriters. 83 the other chapters of this book, especially in the description of the provinces, data will be found not corresponding to the division indicated in our map, because the data obtained for the purpose may have been taken from older sources." * If, then, the author attributes to his map such a secondary merit, it is not possible to attribute decisive authority to it, since it is only a sketch map. Moreover, Sefior Napp, who did not pretend to publish a complete map of the Argentine Republic, did not pay any attention to the fact that in Patagonia there are many rivers which cross the Cordillera. At that time Patagonia was an uninhabited region ; his own map shows this. Napp supposed that, along its whole extent, the rivers rise on the high crest of the Cordillera, and drew them so ; but in spite of this error, when he has spoken of the boundaries, explaining his map, lie has not referred to the continental divide, but to the crest of the Cordillera cle los Andes, as is proved by the following paragraphs taken haphazard from his book : — " Her rights (the Argentine Republic) to a considerable part of the Patagonian lands have even been disputed lately. The Republic of Chile, however, from -which these attempts come, has demonstrated by herself the illegitimacy of her claims, for the districts which compose this latter country are clearly indicated, not only in her own Constitution, but also in the Treaty by which Spain, the original possessor, recognised her independence, naming successively all the parts that form her, and in this document no Chilian right of possession in Patagonia is mentioned."! Speaking of the frontier, in a concrete manner, Sefior Napp says : — " To the west, the boundaries run from the southern point of Cape Hornos (lat. 56° and long. 67°) along the western crests of the Cordillera, as far as lat. 45° and long. 71° 30', and then to JST.N.W. until lat. 26° 20' and long. 69°, thence following a more N.E. direction until lat. 22° (or lat. 20°) and long. 6G°, where it meets the northern limit." J Further on, Sefior Napp deals with the province of Mendoza, and says : — " Bounded on the north by the province of San Juan ; on the east by San Luis ; and on the south by the Pampa, it has for its western boundary the frontier between the Argentine Republic and that of Chile, situated along the western crest of the Cordillera."^ Therefore Sefior Napp, as all the other authors whom the Representative of Chile has quoted, express themselves in a sense which, as was to be foreseen, * La Kepiiblica Argentina, by Eicardo Napp, Buenos Aires, 1876, p. 26. t Ibid., p. 23. | Ibid., p. 26. § Ibid., p. 435. ii 2 84 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. does not permit one to think that it was their intention to advise the swerving from the Cordillera, since it was purposed to trace a line in the Cordillera itself. All Avriters who have dealt with the Argentine-Chilian frontier, at all times and in all countries, have been unable to disregard the crest of the Cordillera, and have believed that it would never admit of dispute that this loftiest ridge should constitute the agreed barrier between the jurisdictions of the two nations, as it was already the barrier which nature had placed in order to prevent any tendency to territorial expansion. For all of them the natural boundary was the orographical one, and in no case have they taken into account the problematical continental divide. They have accepted a palpable fact, instead of following theoretical speculations. Opinions of the Chilian Expert. 85 CHAPTER IV. Summary — 1. Opinions of the Chilian Expert. 2. The Cordillera as Described by the Chilian Expert. 3. The Chilian Expert's Definitions and Description of Patagonia. 1. OPINIONS OF THE CHILIAN EXPERT. The Chilian Expert, Senor Barros Arana, took a very important part in the diplomatic negotiations previous to the Treaty of 1881, and his views respect- ing the boundary line which he has proposed in the name of his Government, have given rise to the questions and differences of opinion submitted to the arbitration of Her Britannic Majesty's Government. He is the author of a work on physical geography,* in which he expresses ideas completely opposed to those which he has since maintained as Chilian Expert. Taking into account the observations of all the authors Avho have been mentioned in the preceding Chapter, he gives a description of the physical features of Chile ; and his opinions with respect to the Cordillera de los Andes will suffice of themselves to show the correctness of the frontier line proposed by the Argentine Expert. If Senor Barros Arana's opinions are quoted, it is certainly not to show his contradictions in the matter. The object is much more important. Senor Barros Arana's works had a reputation in his own country and in the Argentine Republic, and the object in view is to show that his conceptions of " the Cor- dillera " were the same as those of the other Chilian statesmen. His books and university teaching, as well as those of Sefiores Pissis, Domeyko, Gay, Amunategui, Vicuila-Mackenna, have in reality formed the basis of the opinions generally held in the Argentine Republic and Chile concerning the " Cordillera de los Andes." * Elenientos de Geografia Fisica by Diego Barros Arana, 1st edition, Santiago, 1871; 2nd, 1874; 3rd, 1881 ; 4th, 1888. 86 Divergences in the. Cordillera de los Andes. 2. THE CORDILLERA AS DESCRIBED BY THE CHILIAN EXPERT. The descriptions of Senor Barros Arana are so graphic that the somewhat lengthy quotations made are perhaps excusable. Referring to the mountains of South America, he says *: — " The chain of the Andes, so remarkable on account of its enormous length of more than 7000 kilometres, extending through nearly fifty degrees of longitude, and of the great height of its peaks, is less regular than might at first be supposed. It starts at the southern extremity of America, and it could even be said, at the island of Tierra del Fuego, where a sufficiently elevated height, Mount Sarmiento (2106 metres), is to be found. Running along the western coast of the continent, it becomes gradually higher, until between lat. 33° and 31° rise two gigantic peaks — the Tupungato (6710 metres) and the Aconcagua (6834 metres) — this latter being the highest point in the whole chain. From this place rise several ridges which extend towards the eastern side, while on the western rises another very much lower chain which skirts the coast of Chile, and which must be considered as a separate chain. Farther north, these eastern ramifications increase, but in lat. 22°, where the Cordillera inclines to the north-west, following the trend of the coast, a true chain of lofty mountains strikes out, which is called the Cordillera Real, which, on the east, forms the great Bolivian tableland, and from which rise two peaks, Illimani (6445 metres) and the Nevado de Sorata (6487 metres) which until recently were considered to be the loftiest mountains in America. North of Lake Titicaca, the two chains connect by a transverse ridge, but continue to develop in a north-western direction parallel to the coast. Although the eastern Cordillera is cut through in many places by tributaries of the Amazon, its general directum is easily recognised." P. 54. — " The lowlands and plains which, in Chile, extend from the range called Chacabuco to Reloncavi Bay, and are enclosed between the Cordilleras of the Andes and the coast cltain of mountains, is one of the most extensive, most beautiful and richest longitudinal valleys that exist." In chapter xv. p. 296 of the same first edition, Senor Barros Arana says :— "Chile is formed by a narrow strip of uneven and mountainous territory which stretches f from north to south, west of the great Cordillera de los Andes, from lat. 24° S., that is to say, from the Desert of Ataeama as far as Cape Horn, lat. 55° 48' S., i.e. in one extension of 21° 48'. The width of this strip of territory varies from 150 kilometres at lat. 33° S. to 180 kilometres at lat. 38° S. Still further south the territory becomes much narrowek, the ocean penetrates into the land, forming numerous islands, until it bathes the foot of the great Cordillera. This narrow strip of ground owes the * 1st edition, 1871, p. 4G. " From north to-south," and "as far as the parallel of lat. 52° S.," are expressions to be found in the 1881 Treaty, so that the trainers of that Treaty might have taken the definition of tfce boundary from Senor Barros Arana's work. The Cordillera as described by the Chilian Expert. 87 special aspect of its surface to two chains of mountains which run parallel from north to south, enclosing a long valley. From the northern extremity to lat. 33° 4', -this valley is frequently interrupted by transverse ranges, separated from each other by more or less narrow valleys, through which flow the rivers that descend from the Cordilleras. In lat. 33° 4' S. the transverse chain of Chacabuco separates the northern from the southern region, and from that point the longitudinal valley is open to view. To the east rises the great chain of the Andes formed by rugged mountains, abrupt ravines, declivities streaked by stratifications of variegated hues, numerous volcanic cones, jagged crags and inaccessible summits lost in the regions of eternal snow. To the west stretches the chain of mountains called the ' Cordillera de la Costa,' formed by low, round, flattened granite mountains, the undefined shapes of which resemble the waves of a sea quieting after a raging storm. These two chains come close together or recede from each other, thus alternately narrowing or widening the central valley ; but in general it may be said that this valley is more open and extensive in its prolongation toward the south. At lat. 41° 30' S. the valley disappears, the sea taking its place, and the coast chain is to be seen forming more or less extensive islands up to the latitude of Cape Horn. " There is no country on the face of the globe which possesses a more marked and original conformation than that of Chile. A long strip of territory which only measures long. 2i° in its greatest breadth, extending from north to south in a direction almost parallel with the meridian, which, owing to this very circumstance, partakes of a great diversity of climate ; such are its most essential and distinctive features. " This long strip is divided naturally into three different regions : 1st, the Northern or Mineral Eegion ; 2nd, the Central or Agricultural Region; 3rd, the Southern or Insular Region." p. 297.— "The first is comprised between lat. 24° and lat, 33° S. There, the general features of the country are more indefinite. The great Cordillera de los Andes is perfectly defined ; but the Coast Cordillera is not so easily distinguishable, owing to the numerous transverse chains, which traverse the whole territory from east to west, leaving the central valley only visible at intervals." p. 298.— "The second is comprised between lat. 33° and lat. 44° 30' S. The Chacabuco transverse chain forms its boundary on the north. In this region, the general conformation of the country is more defined ; the two mountain chains extend almost parallel, leaving in the centre the valley in which all the agricultural districts of the country are. " The southern region extends from 44° 30' S. down to Cape Horn, the southern extremity of the Continent. Instead of the valley, the sea separates the parallel chain of mountains. The Cordillera de los Andes, much lower in this region, only presents wooded slopes, bathed by the ocean. The Coast Cordillera is interrupted in many parts, and forms chains of islands varied in extent and covered with dense forest. " The rains are unceasing in that region ; the temperature is always cold ; agriculture cannot thrive ; and fishing, which presents an abundant field, has not yet been developed on a large scale " In spite of the irregularities presented by these chains, and of the broken state of the ground, the whole of the Chilian territory consists of an inclined plain which 88 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. descends/Vwtt the slopes of the Andes to bury itself in the Pacific Ocean, and which is interrupted by the coast ridges. It is divided by five longitudinal lines or zones, which are easily recognised, and which considerably modify its character. " The first, i. e. the most eastern, is formed by the culminating line of the Andes, where trees and bushes disappear, and on the highest ridges of which the snow never melts. This chain, which is very much lower in its southern extremity, gradually rises as it extends northwards, attaining its greatest elevation between lat. 34° and 32° S. to decrease a little further north, constituting always a barrier between Chile and the Argentine Eepublic,* which is only broken by narrow and majestic defiles. Numerous volcanic peaks rise up in the midst of these prodigious heights. Numerous torrents, formed by the melting of the lower snoivs, flow from the summits, and are the origin of the rivers which water the whole of the country." P. 299. — "The second zone is formed by the rugged ridges {Serranias) which, form the flanks of the great Cordillera. In the northern region this zone is destitute of trees; but the central region displays luxurious arboriferous vegetation, destroyed to a great extent by man, but in the southern region it grows vigorously and abundantly. The Serranias extend irregularly towards the west, at times occupying a vast expanse of terri- tory. Numerous valleys, through which flow the rivers which rise in the high Cordillera, interrupt the general monotony of the zone. In these valleys the flocks find an abundance of pasture, and the views are exceedingly beautiful. From lat. 41° 30' S. down to the extreme south, the sea washes the base of these Serranias. " The third zone is formed by the longitudinal valley. In the northern regions, this valley is scarcely perceptible, or rather, almost entirely disappears. Transverse chains, consisting of mountains differing in form, colour and appearance from those which con- stitute the coast chains, traverse the territory at various points from east to west, and serve as a connecting link between the two main chains. Instead of the rounded masses with smooth profiles, and the gentle undulations which are characteristic of the Coast Cordillera, groups of more serrated mountains appear there, and in their steeper and denuded gorges, the strata appear as variously coloured ribbons separated by lines more or less distinct and parallel to each other, either straight or curved, in which the miner's experienced eye discovers mineral veins. " Between these transverse chains, the breadth of some of which is very considerable, the valley can be distinguished — dreary, arid, devoid of vegetation, where rain is scarce, and the rivers are insufficient to irrigate the fields ; but agreeable and productive in the narrow valleys formed by the rivulets which fall from the mountain. " The upper ridge of these chains is of unequal undulation, at some points attaining considerable altitude, whilst lower at others. Grenerallv, a line forming the axis of the central valley is recognised in these ridges (Serranias) by a depression of the points through which the valley would pass were it not interrupted by these transverse chains. * The words "between Chile and the Argentine Piepublic," which exist in the first and second editions, have been suppressed since the third, published in 1881, that is to say, after Sehor Barros Arana had, as Minister Plenipotentiary of Chile, negotiated the Treaty of 1876, in which it is stipulated that the boundary between Chile and the Argentine Bepublic is the Cordillera de los Andes. The Cordillera as described by the Chilian Expert. 89 " The last chain to interrupt the central valley is the Chacabuco, which quits the great Cordilleras at the heights of the Juncal, and in lat. 33° 10' advances slightly towards the north, to continue in a westerly direction until it unites with the Cordillera de la Costa. This chain, from which rise summits almost comparable with those of the Andes, and which, owing to its breadth, occupies a large space, terminates this system of interrupted valleys. After it, i.e. in lat. 33° 4', there is a great transverse valley which extends without real interruption along the whole central region of Chile." P. 300. — " This valley forms the richest and most fertile region of the country, and it might be said that it is one of the richest and most productive of the world. It is watered by the numerous rivers which descend from the Andes, and which, running from east to west, flow into the Pacific. In some parts, particularly in the northern section, there are a few mountains, some of which are of considerable elevation, but they are not connected with the longitudinal chains which enclose the valley " " This part of the longitudinal valley, in its northern section, is of considerable elevation above the level of the sea, but descends gradually as it extends towards the south. In lat. 38° this depression forms the basin of the great lakes formed by the torrents ichich descend from the Cordillera ; and finally, in lat. 41° 30', it becomes still lower, until it is covered by the ocean, forming a gulf, which in reality is only the con- tinuation of the valley. Its total length is 930 kilometres, but its width varies considerably. In its origin it is 25 kilometres wide ; further on, at Paine Strait, at lat. 34° S., it is barely a few metres in width ; but it then opens out and continues to widen as it extends towards the south. As its average width may be estimated at 50 kilometres, it may be said to have a superficial area of 46,500 square kilometres." P. 301. — "The fourth zone is formed by the mountains of the coast, with winding profiles parallel with the ocean shore. It includes the western slopes of the first range of mountains, the plateaus which extend along many of its heights, and lastly the eastern slopes, which, at times, spread out in the distance forming less elevated Serranias. The central part of this chain, covered with woods in other epochs, now possesses but little wooded country throughout the greatest part of its extent, but beautiful forests still exist in the southern region. This chain is frequently cut by rivers which force their way between the mountains as they flow towards the sea. It does not possess such lofty elevations as the Andean Cordillera ; a very remarkable fact being that its principal altitudes are in a line with, and we might almost say, in the same latitude as the more lofty peaks of the Andes. In lat, 41° 44' S., the coast chain, which gradually becomes lower, disappears under the sea, the highest peaks of it again appearing in its southern extension in the form of more or less large islands, which form the numerous archipelagoes which extend along the coast of the entire southern region of the continent." p. 305. — " These series of mountains, which extend through Chile, have rather difficult passes, through which it is possible to trav< rse them. Occasionally these consist of steep, almost perpendicular winding defiles, made by some ancient torrent, or through a breach made by volcanoes or earthquakes ; at times, one is compelled to climb to a great, apparently inaccessible altitude. The Andean chain, much loftier than the otheks, has the more notable passes ; the lowest of them all being the Nahuel-Huapi in lat, 41° 30', which is 1500 metres above the level of the sea ; but there are others which attain an enormous altitude." N 90 Divergences in tlic Cordillera de los Andes. P. 308. — " When the general configuration of Chile is known, it will be understood that it cannot possess rivers of such volume and length as those which run through more extensive countries. In fact, the Chilian rivers almost all rise in the Andean Cordillera and traverse a belt of narrow country, having such an abrupt incline that it could be almost com- pared to the slope of a mountain, and they have, in general, a similar current to that which is observed in the upper courses of rivers in other places." 3. THE CHILIAN EXPERTS DEFINITIONS AND DESCRIPTION OF PATAGONIA. Referring to the greater elevations of a chain, Sen or Barros Arana says (p. 42) that— "these frequently do not rise properly in its central ridge, as happens with the peak of Aconcagua, which is situated on the eastern slope (vertiente) of the Andes of Chile" The central ridge is the principal chain, and according to Sen or Barros Arana — P. 41. — " The main chain of a group or system of mountains is considered to be I he chain whose slopes and sides shed the greatest quantity of waters which feed great rivers." P. 40. — " The Pie' (foot) or base of a mountain is the place where it commences to separate from the plain ; Falda (side), the lowest part of the slope ; Laderas or Costados (slopes or sides), the whole extent thereof, wdiich in some parts of Spain are called Alcores (small hills) ; Gola (gullet), the whole contour of its Costados (slopes) ; Curnbre (summit), the part which rests on the Gola ; Cima (peak), the part which surmounts the Cumbre ; the Punto Culminante (the culminating point), the highest part of the Cima ; the Costados (slopes) of the mountains, down which the waters flow, are called Vertientes." Speaking of the valleys, he says : — P. 54. — " Geographers made a further distinction between the different valleys, according to their distribution in the mountain systems. Those which lengthen out between two mountain chains, following the prolongation of these two chains, are called longitudinal." Senor Barros Arana, according to this definition, applies the word " ver- tiente " to the general slope of the mountain range, as thus : — P. 212.—" It is known that the Cordillera has a much steeper slope upon its western slope (' vertiente ') and for this reason it must retain upon its slopes a smaller quantity of snow than * If the word " vertiente" had the meaning of "spring," as claimed by the Chilian Representative, the Mount Aconcagua, " the must culminating point of the Andes," would be situated, according to Senor Barros Arana, upon a "spring." The Chilian Expert's Definitions and Description of Patagonia. 91 on its eastern slope (vertiente). Further, the western slope (vertiente) receives the sun's rays at the hottest hours of the day, when the general warmth of the temperature has- overcome the coldness of the morning'; nevertheless, it is observed that the line of perpetual snow is lower on the Chilian side than on that of the Argentine Republic." P. 211. — "The Himalayan range stretches from east to west in the Northern Hemisphere, and very little to the north of the Tropic of Cancer. Its southern slope (' vertiente ') receives more heat than the northern, and on account of its declivity it receives the rays of the sun almost perpendicularly, yet it is observed that the line of perpetual snow is nearly 1100 metres lower on this side than upon its opposite side." According to Senor Barros Arana, the slopes of the Himalayan range may be compared with the slopes of the Andes Cordillera ; and thus the Himalayan range is the one which corresponds to the Andes Cordillera, whilst the chain of the Karakorum, which is separated from the Himalayas by the basin of the river Indus, resembles in a certain way the Cordillera Peal of Bolivia. As Senor Barros Arana points out, in the Himalayan range the same phenomenon occurs as in the Andes. It rains much more on its southern than on its northern slope, as in the Andes range ; to the south of parallel 30°, it rains more on the western than on the eastern slopes. Large affluents from the Indus and the Brahma- putra cut through the Himalayas and carry to the sea, situated to the south, the waters of the northern slope, just as the waters of the eastern slope of the Andes, which flow from the Cordillera after cutting through the range, empty themselves into the Pacific. The line of the Himalayan watershed is not situated, according to Senor Barros Arana, in the Tibetan plateau, but in the prolonged ridge of the Himalayan range ; and therefore, applying the same argument to the Cordillera watershed, the latter proceeds from the crest of the Cordillera itself, and not from the Patagonian table-land. He also describes Patagonia thus : — " Patagonia, from its southern extremity to the banks of the river Colorado, is nothing but an immense desert, in which at intervals only, a stunted and thorny vegetation appears ; brackish waters, saline lakes, incrustations of white salt, alternate with this sparse vegetation. This aspect continues to the base of the Andes, the slopes {' vertientes ') of winch are almost hare on that side." In the paragraph quoted Senor Barros Arana gives to the word "vertientes" its true meaning according to the Treaties of 1881 and 1893, though he may afterwards have attempted to modify this meaning. He admits that in some cases the line of separation of two hydrographie regions is interrupted by tracts across which the waters can pass from one basin N 2 92 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. to the other ; and with reference to this phenomenon he mentions the fact, accord- ing to data obtained from natives, that a stream of water, copious and, it may be said, even navigable, flows across the Cordilleras to the lakes of Rinihue and Neltume, and puts the Atlantic and Pacific in communication; it is, however, very properly added that " this singular phenomenon has not been thoroughly examined." Thus, just as for Sefiores Pissis and Domeyko, so also for Serior Barros Arana the culminating line of the Cordillera de los Andes bounds Chile on the east, its territory being formed by an inclined plane which falls away from the slopes (faldas) of the Andes to bury itself in the Pacific Ocean, the central longitudinal valley separates the Cordillera de los Andes from the Cordillera de la Costa. In the central chain, which contains the culminating line, are not always situated the absolutely greatest heights of the Cordillera, some of which are found outside the slopes or descents, eastern and western, of that main chain. The meaning of " vertientes " in the case of the Cordillera de los Andes, is restricted to the descents (laderas) of its central chain. The culminating line of the Andes,* on whose crests (cumbres) the snow never disappears, constitutes for ever a barrier which is only interrupted by narrow and majestic defiles, between Chile and Argentina (according to Senor Barros Arana in the 1871 and 1874 editions of his book). From those summits spring numerous torrents formed by the melting of the lower snows, which are the origin of the rivers that water the whole territory. Indeed, through one of these majestic defiles, should be found the supposed river communication which Senor Barros Arana mentions in his work, at the height of Lake Rinihue, a defile which in fact exists, and is that which carries to the said lake the waters of the Lacar situated to the east of the Cordillera. It is as well to mention these defiles, and to take into consideration the courses of the river Puelo, explored by Lieutenant Francisco Yidal Gorinaz of the Chilian Navy, in 1868, who assigned its origin in a lake situated to the east of the Cordillera, and of the river Aysen — that is to say, the Rio de los Rabudos of the Colonial chroniclers — figured in some maps as forming an interoceanic communication by means of a large lake situated within tin Cordillera, ami which discharges its waters by that river towards the Pacific, and by the river Deseado, towards the Atlantic * Culminating lino, for Senor Barros Arana, as for Senor Pissis, is the highest crest, and not the line of -absolute water-divide. lie says in bis book, "Aconcagua is the culminating point of tbe Andes." The Chilian Expert 's Definitions and Description of Patagonia. 93 When Seiior Barros Arana wrote bis book, although there had been carried out important explorations which confirmed the current opinion that Lake Lacar discharged its waters into the Pacific by the Yaldivia River, from the east of the Cordillera, yet the fact appeared improbable, according to the statement of one of the most competent explorers of those regions, and who prudently restricted himself to stating that the Indians of the regions mentioned it as a fact ; but the same explorer admitted the existence of the complete severance of the Cordillera by the river Puelo and also by the Aysen or Eio de los Rabudos, a fact confirmed afterwards, in 1871, by Captain Enrique Simpson of the Chilian Navy. The Tribunal will find the truth of this assertion in the map published at the time at Santiago de Chile, " in view of the better official maps and explorations," of which some editions were corrected by Seiior Barros Arana himself, as it is stated in that map that the Cordillera de los Andes appears cut by the two rivers through the whole of its transverse extent. The work of Seiior Barros Arana was, and still is a text-book in the higher schools of Santiago. In it Seiior Barros Arana admits also that the Cordillera de los Andes contains chasms formed by torrents or by apertures which volcanoes or earthquakes have made, and that in the Cordillera have been observed prodigious volcanic phenomena, such as the overthrow of mountains, and formations of lagoons by the stopping of the current of a river ; and it is well to bear in mind this remark of Seiior Barros Arana on the unstableness of watercourses, because, some time after, as Chilian Expert, he only took in consideration those watercourses, when marking out a boundary which the Treaties prescribe should be " immovable." 94 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. CHAPTER V. Summary — 1. Chilian Official Views Regarding the Wording in International Boundaries. 2. The Chilian-Bolivian Treaty of 1866. 3. The Chilian-Bolivian Treaty of 1874. 4. Other Official Documents. 1. CHILIAN OFFICIAL VIEWS REGARDING THE WORDING IN INTERNATIONAL BOUNDARIES. Evidence of great value, respecting the meaning and signification of the words " Cordillera de los Andes" has been already laid before the Tribunal, to show how the dividing line between the two countries was generally understood in the Chilian and Argentine Republics. It would be well now to present the official proof that the Argentine Expert's interpretation of the Treaty of 1881 is identical with that of both Governments at the time of the framing of the Treaty, and also that it agrees with the only one admitted in the international dealings of the Chilian Government prior to the said Covenant. In fact, not only the Chilian Constitution, not only the National Hymn, and not only the Treaty with Spain, had proclaimed, urbi et orbi, that Chile had as her eastern boundary the Cordillera de los Andes, but all public documents, all internal divisions of the Chilian provinces marked that limit, and the language adopted in official Acts had become so clear and plain on the matter, that Chile defined the "Cordillera" simply as die eastern boundary of Chile. " To the eastern boundaries of Chile," stated the Treaty between Chile and Bolivia, in order to express the Cordillera de los Andes. And what was under- stood as the Cordillera de los Andes, according to the Chilian Constitution and Chilian Government? What was understood, according to them, as tlo eastern boundary of Chile 7 Definitions which do not refer to any particular case, but as a general definition of the eastern boundary of Chile, will be laid before the Tribunal. The Chilian-Bolivian Treaty of 1866. 95 2. THE CHILIAN-BOLIVIAN TREATY OF 1866. The following documents will show what were the principles Chile upheld as the basis of her claims concerning her frontier, upon the crest of the Cordillera, in a boundary division which was essentially orographic. In 1866, Bolivia and Chile signed a boundary Treaty of which Article 1, in its first part, said: — " The line of demarcation of the boundaries between Chile and Bolivia in the Desert of Atacama shall be in future the parallel of lat. 24° S. from the Pacific coast to the eastern boundaries of Chile, so that Chile on the south and Bolivia on the north, shall have the possession and dominion of the territories which extend to the said parallel of lat. 24° S., exercising on them every act of jurisdiction and sovereignty corresponding to the landlord." And Article 2 :— " Notwithstanding the territorial division stipulated for in the former article, the Republic of Chile and the Republic of Bolivia shall share equally in the products resulting from the workings of the guano deposits discovered in Mejillones, and in the other deposits of the same fertiliser which may be discovered in the territory comprised between lat., 23° and 25° S., as well as in the export duties levied on minerals from the just-mentioned territories." By Article 1 of the same Treaty, it was also settled that the line of demarcation between the two countries should be traced by " a commission of capable persons and experts," who should fix the dividing line " on the ground." Those capable persons and experts were, on the part of Chile, Senor A. Pissis, and on the part of Bolivia, Senor Juan M. Mujia, who, on May 11, 1870, in the port of Taltal, signed a Record in which they show to have determined the boundary in the parallels of 23°, 24° and 25° S. as far as the Cordillera de los Andes, recognising as such the chain in which are situated the peaks " Pular," f" on the crest of the Andes"), "Tonar" ( u on the crest of the Andes''), and " Yuyayaco" ( u on the anticlinal line of the Andes"). After the Record became known there arose differences respecting the eastern boundary of Chile. The Government of Bolivia was not satisfied with the tracing of it by Senores Pissis and Mujia, considering that the line on the east, to which the Treaty of 1866 referred, ought to have been fixed to the west of the line demarcated by those Experts, since the eastern boundaries of 96 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. Chile did not pass beyond this; they claimed that the frontier line ought to be lixed by a line, which having its starting point at the intersection of the anticlinal line of the Andes with the parallel of 25°, falls perpendicularly on the parallel of 23°. The Chilian Government replied that the eastern boundary of Chile was u the Cordillera de los Andes"; that, therefore, the frontier line should ran along that Cordillera; and that they held as correct the demarcating operations which Senor Pissis had carried out. The Chilian Minister for Foreign Affairs, for this reason, said to the Minister Plenipotentiary of Bolivia at Santiago, that the eastern boundaries of Chile an no other than the Cordillera de los Andes, and that both Chile and Bolivia, in fulfilling the stipulations of the Treaty, had, through their representatives, fixed that boundary/// the Cordillera, pointing it out by well-known points and positions. Chile therefore did not accept the new demarcation of limits proposed by Bolivia " inasmuch as these would change the (((stern boundary of the territory." These misunderstandings gave rise to the Protocol signed at La Paz in Bolivia, December 5, 1S72, by Don Santiago Lindsay, Minister Plenipotentiary of Chile. In Article 1 of this Protocol it is declared that the eastern boundary of Chile, of which mention is made in Article 1 of the Boundary Treaty of 1866, is the highest crest of the Andes, and therefore the dividing line of Chile and Bolivia at hit. 24° S., starting from the Pacific, goes up to the crest of the Cordillera de los Andes. In confirmation of that Article the 9th Article, says that that boundary is in the lofty crest of the great Cordillera de los Andes. Senor Lindsay, in communicating the Protocol to his Government, said: " It is settled that our eastern boundary is the highest crest of the ( 'ordillera de los . bides." * Thus, th ■ eastern boundary of Chile, according to her Constitution, her National Hymn, and as understood by the Chilian statesmen, was fixed in the highest crests of the Andes. "It is settled," says Mr. Lindsay, Chilian Minister, " that our eastern boundary is the highest crest of the Cordillera de los Andes." There the Argentine Expert has placed the boundary line, and the Survey Commission to be sent by Her Britannic Majesty's Government Avill see that the Chilian Expert has greatly diverged from the highest crests of the Andes, and placed his hue in the Pampas of Patagonia, thus claiming for Chile the whole ('ordillera • Communication of Senor Santiago Lindsay, Minister Plenipotentiary of Chile in Bolivia, to the Minister of Foreign Ufairs of Chile, dated Santiago, January 2nd, l s 7'!. The Chilian-Bolivian Treaty of 1866. 97 including its western and eastern slopes, and also a great part of the territories that have been always known as Argentine. But there is no necessity to discuss this at present, and the quotations of official evidence bearing on the matter will be continued. 3. THE CHILIAN-BOLIVIAN TREATY OF 1874. The boundary agreed to in the year 1SG6 between Chile and Bolivia, was also agreed to in the new Treaty concluded in 1874 between the same countries, of which Article 1 says : — "The parallel of 2-4° from the sea to the Cordillera de los Andes, in the divortium aquarum, is the boundary between the Republics of Chile and Bolivia." This expression, " Cordillera de los Andes, in the divortium aquarum," gave occasion for official declarations, which were considered necessary for the acceptance of the Treaty. The Bolivian Minister of Foreign Affairs, Sen or Mariano Baptista, explaining the boundary to Congress, said : — " There is a irreat line, or rather a kind of enormous ridge, which runs round the world, starting from Cape Horn, crossing South America, passing Panama, running along North America, jumping over the Behring Strait, advancing into Asia, and passing into Africa, where it ends at the southernmost cape. The several branches which run off from this central ridge, form different orders of mountain chains, which, in turn, form so many arcijinious boundaries. This great chain, which comes from North America, over here' takes the name of Rocallosos, Sierra Yerde, Sierra Madre, Anahuac and Andes, and marks exactly the arcijinious boundaries with which we are now treating with Chile. If a chain of moun- tains forms the limit, the international law explains and defines its application. Mountain ranges culminate in summits, which are their highest points, or in other places they rise in ridges which are the angles formed at their crests by the opposite slopes, or else they ran through the highest peaks or loftier crests. These peaks, these summits, these loftiest points. these highest angles, constitute the divortia aquarum (or watershed), and geographically, they an defined as part of the chain which separates the waters either intermittent or continually flowing by slopes in opposite directions. " The statements of impassioned newspapers are manifestly illogical," said Sefior Baptista. " One says, ' All the maps and constitutions of Chile mark as her territory from the sea as far as the Cordillera; therefore the boundary cannot be fixed by the divortia aquarum, or in the highest crest of the Andes, according to the clauses of the Agreement of the 5th, which has been condemned.' How T ever," continued Sefior Baptista, " the law has decided that if the Cordillera is indicated without any other explanation, hy this expression is to be understood its highest crest, or the divortia aquarum." Notwithstanding such a clear explanation the Bolivian Congress required a corresponding explanation on the part of Chile, and modified the Treaty thus :— o 98 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. " In Article 1 the declaration will be made that the eastern boundary of Chile is the Western Cordillera de los Andes through its highest crests (curnbres), according to the Report of the Chilian and Bolivian Commissioners' Pissis and Mujia, who determined the peaks of ' Yuyayacu ' and Pular." This Resolution caused the Treaty to be rendered even more intelligible. Minister Baptista addressed a note to the Chilian Minister, sending him said Ilesolution, which he considered as "a confirmation of, or rather a short com- mentary on Article 1 of the Treaty." Senor Carlos Walker Martinez, the Chilian Minister, replied in agreement with the interpretation given by the Bolivian Minister to the words, "Cordillera de los Andes in the divortium aquarum" affirming that in the Boundary Treaty by the words " Cordillera in its divortium aquarum " should be understood the " Cordillera,'' the lofty crests of the Cordillera and Nothing Else. The doctrine of international law is expressed in the following terms by Senor Walker Martinez : — " It is evident that the Cordillera de los Andes, which from south to north forms the eastern boundary of Chile, shall continue to be its boundary up to parallel lat. 24° S., and the text of the Treaty is so explicit in its Article 1 on this point that it is not to understand the meaning of words to suppose that ' high crest' or 'divortium, aquarum " can have any other meaning than that given them by science, language and common sense. In reply to the jealous and suspicious men who have accused Your Excellency of having ceded immense territories of Bolivia by accepting the draft of the first Article, it, would be proper to tell them that the Republic of Chile claims nothing more than to be enclosed BETWEEN HER OCEAN AND HER CORDILLERAS TO OBTAIN ALL THAT SHE COVETS, HER PEACE, HER WELL-BEING AND nER PROGRESS. " A special protocol to explain what I state in the words of this communication appears to me superfluous ; in my opinion, it suffices that I should declare, as I do, that my Government understands the eastern boundary in the part of the Desert op Atacama, to be the host elevated crests of the Cordillera AND NOTHING ELSE. I think that this statement is sufficiently clear and will leave no room for duubt." * This doctrine was again affirmed, before the Bolivian and Chilian Con- gresses approved the Treaty, by request of the Chilian Minister who wished to determine clearly what should be understood by eastern, boundary of Chile. As already said, the Bolivian Congress, in their Decree explanatory of Article 1 of the Treaty, had referred to the Western Cordillera de los Andes. This gave rise to some alarm in Chile, and in order t<> dispel it Sefior Walker Martinez insisted upon his previous interpretations in a note to the Bolivian Minister of Foreign Affairs, in which he says: — Op. .it., p. 136. The Chilian-Bolivian Treaty of 1874. 99 " The clear and brief statement which Your Excellency and the undersigned made in Article 1 of the Treaty, which superseded the former one of the year 1866, and which we signed on August 6 of last year in the city of Sucre, was the result of protracted con- ferences. We were simply desirous to establish a positive fact, and our only intention was to acknowledge the highest crests of the Andes, that is to say the divortia aquarum in the Desert of Atacama, as the eastern boundary of Chile. It did not appear to us possible that the Article could lend itself to any capricious interpretation or error of any kind. Neverthe- less, the National Assembly of Bolivia wished to be more precise, and employed the term ' Western Cordillera de los Andes,' in Clause No. 3 of its Resolution of November 6, concerning the approbation of that Agreement. From this have resulted different and erroneous interpretations, which it will be desirable to correct. In the note which I had the honour to forward to our Excellency, under the date of November 10, I was quite explicit respecting this question. I reminded Your Excellency that the limits of Chile in the territory of Atacama were the highest crests of the Andes, that is to say, the divortia aquarum. I did not believe then, and I do not believe now, that the intention of the Bolivian Assembly was to fix these limits by any other line than that fixed by Nature herself, and recognised in former agreements and diplomatic precedents, and about which Your Excellency and myself have always been quite of one mind." The Bolivian Minister replied in the following precise terms to the Chilian Minister : — " My Government, therefore, understand that the term divortia aquarum is taken in the sense given it by ' science,'' ' language ' and ' common sense] as Your Excellency expressed in your despatch of November 10, No. 31, which was the reply to the declaration of my Government contained in documents of the said date. The general term ' Cordillera ' as a boundary implies its highest crests, and its divortia aquarum, as the term of lagoon, river, plain, or table-land, without any other qualification, presupposes the boundary line in its centre, or in its thalweg. The Cordillera de los Andes having been specified, the boundary line runs through its highest crests or its divortia aquarum. The Assembly of Bolivia were aware that the Bolivian and Chilian Commissioners had already definitely fixed the points of Yuyayacu and Pular, as leading points of these highest crests or divortia aquarum^ Only after the foregoing communications have been exchanged, only after the Congresses of the two nations interested, had acquired the profound belief that the expression " divortia aquarum " did not displace the orographic boundary from its natural position in the superior and highest crest of the prominent Cordillera de los Andes ; only after the interpretation of the legal advisers had determined that when the divortium aquarian in the orographic regions is spoken of, reference is made to the line which divides the slopes of the chain: only then did they give their acquiescence to the proposed agreement. o 2 ioo Divergences in the Cordillera dc los .hides. i. OTHER OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS. The simple enunciation of the foregoing quotations makes it clear that previous to the Treaty of 1881 the public men of Chile shared the views of all historians and statesmen, regarding the Andine boundary. The Cordillera appeared an admirable natural frontier, owing to the many important conditions which it fulfils ; whenever writers have referred to it, they have made special mention of the peculiar suitability of the range as a natural defence and for opposing the attempt at territorial aggrandisement by either of the countries which it separates. The opinion of both the Argentine and Chilian negotiators of the Treaty of 1881, was undoubtedly influenced by the remarkable suitability of the ( '( ndillera to constitute the natural boundary. Chile raised these arguments when she was treating with the Argentine Republic concerning the boundary line of the Ancles, and the records of the Ministry for Foreign Affairs contain a large number of documents, referring to this subject, some of which will be mentioned, when quoting statements in connection with the wording of the Treaty of 1881. The highest crest has always been the point considered, and the watershed has always been made dependent upon it. A proof that no doubt existed as to this matter is to be found in the communication addressed, in 1S73, by the Minister of Foreign Affairs of Chile, to the Minister of the Interior of that country, calling his attention to errors which he thought he discovered in the large map recently published by Sefior Pissis,* because of the two ridges which ".Santiago, 18th August, ls7.">. I do not consider it to bo unnecessary to seriously call your atten- tion to other points in the maps referred to, in which I am of opinion that an error of no less importance has been made. You are not unaware that our eastern frontier with the Argentine Republic has not yet been determined, and that the misunderstanding on this subject has already been apparent between both Governments with reference to certain grazing lands (potreros) situated in the province of Talca, the property of a Senora Jiron, over which both our authorities, and those of Mendoza, have claimed jurisdiction. These opposing claims arise, as you are aware, from the fact that the Cordillera de los Amies frequently divides into two different sections which, in widening out, leave between them valleys and table-lands in which the Chilian Government has exercised jurisdiction over the tribes which inhabit them. Similar claims are put forward by the authorities of the neighbouring Republic. " It is therefore necessary to decide whether, in these cases, the frontier-line of both countries should be formed by the most eastern or the most western cordons of the Cordillera of the Andes. This being the state of the 'i nest ion, it, appears that Senor Pissis has marked the western cordons of the < Jordillera, on the maps of Chile, as being the said boundary, depriving us of the places to which I have referred above. " As these maps were made by Commissions of Engineers appointed ami remunerated by the Government, Other Official Documents. 101 form the principal chain of the Cordillera in the part referred to in that map, Pissis had marked the western one as the boundary. In 1871, a map of the Argentine Province of San Juan was published, in which the River cle los Patos appears divided by the highest ridge, leaving in the Chilian territory the valley of that name. The region to the west of this ridge was not known to the author of the map, and he, no doubt, imagined that it was the extreme end of the Cordillera. However, the Government of San Juan exercised jurisdiction in the said valley, and as the authorities of the Chilian Province of Aconcagua tried to oppose it, the Argentine Legation in Santiago protested against such pretension, in 1874. Referring to this, Senor Alfonso, Minister of Foreign Affairs, set forth in his Annual Report for 1875, as follows: — "The principle of international law is well known, according to which when the boundary of a nation is marked by a Cordillera, the dividing line is the one ivhicli runs along the most lofty points thereof, and where the water-divide exists." And he concluded with these words : — " This is another point which it wonld be well to decide in a clear and permanent manner, when it may be possible to define the main question of dominion to the southern part of the continent, as it is known that the same difficulty has arisen already in other sections of the Cordillera, without any definite solution having been arrived at." As will be seen, Chile traced her frontier by the line of the highest crests, and she adhered to this system not only until the signing of the Protocol of 1893, but maintaining her claims to the "Valle de los Patos" after its signature. It is not only in international documents where the definitions of the Cordillera de los Andes as the eastern boundary of Chile are to be found. Internal Acts may also be brought to mind, and among them the Decree of the Chilian Government, dated September 30, 1869. In this Decree, notwith- standing what has been said about division of waters, the boundary is localised in the highest crest of the Cordillera with the authority derived from Acts emanating from public powers. It says, in the part bearing upon the point: — " It is approved the following project of arrangement of the sub-delegations and districts of the department of Laja : . . . . 19th Sub-delegation Antuco. . . . District and as an official character attaches to thern, I have considered it indispensable to make these observations to you, so as to prevent mistakes, if rjossible, and invalidate the arguments which might, later on, be deduced from these facts in favour of the Argentine Kepublic." 102 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. No. 8, Campamento. The boundary shall be drawn to the north and south by means of two parallel straight lines drawn from west to east, from the point where the rivers Laja and Rucue' issue up to the summit of the Cordillera of Pichachen or the Andes ; to the east, leith the highest edge of this Cordillera ; and to the west, with the eastern boundary of the above district."* The Chilian Minister in Bolivia, Senor Lindsay, wrote forcibly and truthfully in 1872, several passages which the Argentine Republic accepts to-day as the most eloquent expression of her unquestionable rights. It was in the course of boundary discussions, in a document where the value of words are weighed, that the Representative of Chile declared: — " That which Chile possessed was the territory comprised between the Pacific Ocean and the Cordillera de los Andes, the eastern boundary of this Republic not only now' since Iter political emancipation, hut since a period long before that event. National and foreign text- books of geography and other works which fix the boundaries of Chile have uniformly given her as an eastern boundary, the Cordillera de los Andes. The different constitutions which have rided this country have also established that boundary ; two reasons which are assuredly not wanting force in the present case From these instructions it appears clearly and decisively that each Government as well as everybody, has considered the Cordillera of the Andes as the eastern boundary of Chile Only on September 19 of this last year did the question now pending make its appearance.t Until this last date, our eastern boundary of the Andes had never been placed in doubt by any person or people." In order to accentuate his idea, the Chilian Minister said in another part: — "The Chilian Government in notes addressed to Sefior Bustillo, at Santiago, by word of mouth and in every manner, has declared that they do not discuss that which bears no discussion, that is, that the eastern frontier of Chile has been and always will BE THE HIGHEST CRESTS OF THE CORDILLERA DE LOS ANDES." These are the expressions distinctly stated, which the Chilian Plenipotentiary officially used, and they may be applied, at the present juncture, to vindicate the rights of the Argentine Republic, and to justify the Argentine opposition to leaving aside the traditional frontier, respected by centuries. 1 Anibal Ecbeverria y Eeyes, Geografia politica de Chile ; or Compilation of Laws and Decrees in force as to the creation, boundaries and names of the provinces, departments, sub-delegations and districts of the Republic, L888-1889. Santiago, vol. 1, p. 156. t This was the Chilian-Bolivian question of boundaries. Some Bolivian statesmen pretended that the boundary here referred to by the Treaty of 1866, was to be traced not in the true Cordillera de los Andes but westwards uf it. Intersection of the Cordillera de los Andes by Rivers in the South. 103 CHAPTER VI. Summary — l. Intersection of the Cordillera de los Andes by Eivers in the South. 2. Explorations by Ladrillero (1557-1559) and Garcia (1766-1767). 3. Expeditions of the 'Adventure' and the 'Beagle' (1826-1830). 4. Explorations by Cox and Frick. 5. Explorations by Vidal Gormaz and Simpson. G. Expeditions by the Officers of the Chilian Gunboat 'Magallani>.' 7. Results to be Derived from these Explorations. 1. INTERSECTION OF THE CORDILLERA DE LOS ANDES BY RIVERS IN THE SOUTH. To peove that when the Treaty of 1881 was framed, it was a known fact that the Cordillera de los Andes was intersected by rivers, is of paramount importance ; because the most important divergences of opinion between the Chilian and Argentine Experts are in connection with the divide of the rivers flowing into the Atlantic and the Pacific. The Chilian Expert, setting aside altogether the Chilian Constitution which fixes, from north to south, the whole length of the eastern boundary of Chile in the Cordillera de los Andes; and entirely ignoring the Treaty of 1881, which also fixes the Cordillera de los Andes as the boundary between the two nations down to 52° S. ; and disregarding all historical and political evidence, tends to remove the boundary from the said Cordillera to the plains of Patagonia. It is necessary to show to the Tribunal that the Argentine and Chilian Governments, when fixing the boundary in the high crests of the Cordillera, were quite aware that the Cordillera was, in the south, intersected by rivers, which rising in the east, traverse the chain and flow into the Pacific. This fact was known to them, and yet they stated that the boundary should follow the high crests of the Cordillera, from north to south, as far as parallel lat. 52° S., without taking into consideration whether the rivers had their outlet in the Pacific, or in the Atlantic Ocean. If this had been a matter of importance the wording of the Treaty would have been very different and it would have been 104 Divergences in the Cordillera dc los .hides. necessary, previous to any delimitation, to ascertain carefully which rivers had their outlet in the Atlantic, and which in the Pacific. The surveys in such cases would necessarily have commenced by the shores of the Atlantic and the Pacific and have followed up the rivers, and there would have been no occasion to make explorations in the Cordillera de los Andes, nor to seek, in the range, the highest crests. It was perfectly well known that several rivers in the south had their sources far from the eastern side of the high crests of the Cordillera de los Andes, as Her Britannic Majesty's Technical Commission will verify when, on the ground, they eonsider the boundary marks in the Patagonian plains, proposed by the Chilian Expert. The evidence which goes to prove what the Argentine Government states, will also show that as certain rivers have their rise on the eastern side of "the Cordillera de los Andes, and then flow across these mountains to the Pacific Ocean, the eastern slope of the Cordillera was never considered Chilian territory. 2. EXPLORATIONS BY LADRILLERO (1557-1559) AND GARCIA (1766-1767). The works of Senores Gay, Pissis, Domeyko, Barros Arana, and others which have been mentioned, do not refer in particular to any of the points of the Cordillera where it appears to be intersected by rivers which take their rise to the east of the said Cordillera. Even if they mention these interesting phenomena none of these authors examined them themselves, and it will be necessary to lay before the Tribunal the authorities upon which they based their statements. Juan Ladrillero, a Spanish navigator, who sailed along the western coast of Patagonia and the Magellan Straits, between the years 1557 and 1559, was the first explorer who penetrated to the east of the Andes from the Pacific side, through one of the many breaches in the Cordillera. In this memorable voyage he discovered a channel which led him to the one now known as ''('anal de las Montanas," in lat. 52° S. He found other narrow channels between high snowy mountains, which constitute in that region the Cordillera de los Andes, and navigating these channels to the west, he arrived at a large sound, bounded on the west by these high mountains, and on the cast by some low-lying land, Explorations by Ladrillero and Garcia. 105 suitable for the cultivation of wheat, Indian corn, and other "Tains. There the Cordillera ended, and to all appearance there was nothing but plains to the north-east as far as the Atlantic. Ladrillero could see nothing but plains and fertile land extending to the Atlantic Ocean to the east, but to the Pacific Ocean, to the west, only a vast extent of snowy mountains. On the east, he found another channel up which he sailed for a distance of fifteen leagues. An account of the voyage of Ladrillero was published in the Anuario Hidrogratieo of Chile, vol. <> (Santiago, 1880), with a map drawn by Senor Alejandro Bertrand in the fashion of the chartography of the sixteenth century. In this account it is correctly stated that the amount of geographical knowledge since accumulated has confirmed the opinion of Ladrillero, who considered this point as the most southern extremity of the chain of mountains forming the Cordillera de los Andes, and the commencement of vast plains which extend towards the Atlantic. It may be inferred, therefore, that Senor Barros Arana, when, in 1876, he proposed the dicort'mm aquarum without referring to the Cordillera de los Andes as the only division between Chile and the Argentine Republic, did so in order to secure for Chile the banks of the channels of the Pacific, which channels he knew extended to the east of the Cordillera. It will be seen further on that this scheme was not accepted, and was modified as regards this region, into the line of divortium aquarian of the Cordillera de los Andes, so that there were left to the Argentine Eepublic several ports on the Pacific waters, to which claim she renounced for political reasons, by the Protocol of 1893, the same in virtue of which she now resists the Chilian pretensions to the Atlantic side of the Cordillera.* * Juan Ladrillero's Expedition (1557-1559). P. 480. — " From this island, the channel runs seven leagues S.E. by S. as far as another island (see note 84), the channel then bends N.N.E. for four leagues, where it divides into two channels, one running north between some lofty mountain chains (note 85) and the other E. which we followed for five leagues in the said E. direction ; and half-way between these five leagues, on the north side, another channel penetrates running N.E. (note 86). At the end of these five leagues, we came to a strait which contracted the channel to about a gunshot (note 87), it being very deep and the currents being very strong, more like a mill-stream ; these narrows were about half a gunshot in length ; after which the channel on the S.W. side, one and a half leagues wide, running W.S.W. (note 88). Another on the S.E. side, two leagues in breadth, ran N. In one of the ranges was a bell-shaped rock; with a harbour at its base (note 89), sheltered from every wind save the (84) Union Channel and Ancon sin SaJida Island. (85) Channel of the Mountains. (80) These channels have no name; but are shown on the map, the explorer having been most precise in every detail about this part. (77) Kirke Straits or Narrows. (88) Little Uope Channel. (89) The harbour to which L^dnlleio refers can be seen on the map at the very first glance. io6 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. : F Gidat H-jtrfitnos,2$ ^I'BertranJ sUU ALEJANDRO BEETEAND, L880. (From Anuario Hidrografico de Chile, Santiago, vol. 6. 1 Explorations by Ladrillcro and Garcia. 107 In the Journey of Father Jose Garcia to the western coast of Patagonia, in 1766 and 1767, published at Halle in 1809, and reprinted by Senor Barros N.E. and there is an island in the middle of the channel (note 90), it runs two leagues northward, where the channel then widens ; and five leagues further on there is an island (note 91) ; and the hay is five leagues wide, so that along this channel and bay there are four channels, like the first, which is on the S.W. side (note : This is a copyist's mistake, as this portion is excluded by the following), running E.S.E. ; this we followed, it extended six leagues E.S.E. as far as a sandy promontory, where there was a good deal of wind ; from there we proceeded S.S.W. for five leagues, when I took the bearings, finding that we were in lat. 53 3 ; from where I nwde this calculation I could see that the channel went further south for another five leagues, where it seemed to terminate and we turned back (note 92), and I saw that it was not the Strait, we returned to Tsla "'< lus Reyes — Kings' Island— (note 93) which was three leagues from the entrance to the channel; and I called it by that name as wo arrived there on the Pascua de los Reyes — Epiphany or Twelfth Day; from there we went N.E. by E. for five leagues and entered another channel which we went up ; the country was of good appearance, with plenty of venados (huemules), and a soil which could grow corn, maize and other grain : and here the Cordillera comes to an end, and all the country on the E.N.E. as far as the northern sea, sen, ml to consist of nothing but plains (note 94); and from the top of the mountain we saw a channel which could be discerned more than fifteen leagues off, running E.N.E. (note 95), and was more than one and a half leagues wide. Continuing our search, we went along the other channel I mentioned, from the said Venados Point, three leagues N.W. by N. and then five leagues N. ; at the end of these five leagues, we went a further eight leagues N.W. and one league N. where we encountered a river with a very strong current, which flowed out from some snow-clad mountains ; and seeing it was not what we were looking for, although the channel was one and a half leagues wide up to that point, we turned back, and passed along the main channel which we had left a league from there, continuing along it for another three leagues (note 96), where we found another fresh-water river, having a very strong current and situated in great snow-clad mountains. We turned back to follow another channel which we had left, and had advanced four leagues from Venados Point, which also terminates in a similar manner; we went N.E. for four leagues (note 97), and seeing that we could not find the Strait there, nor any outlet for the channel, which seemed to go towards the flat country of which I have spoken, and from which we were not four leagues away, we turned back to Venados Point, where two men with guns killed fifteen venados in an hour; we then made for the Ida de los Reyes, traversing the channel, which is six miles wide, where we saw two other channels, one of which we penetrated (note 98) hoping to find a passage, along which we went N.E. and N.N.E. for eighteen leagues, where we found our- selves in a very soundable bay a league in width. The whole of this land is the termination of the Serrania (90) This can be seen matked on the map. (91) Focus Island, the name given it by Lieut. Skyring, owing to the numerous channels which concentrate there. (92) Obstruction Channel, aloni: winch Ladrillero sailed. (93) In the confluence of the channels, and facing said island, is the Bahia de la Pascua, the name given it by Skyring, 270 years after Ladrillero's expedition. In both cases, the name had a similar origin; the Christian festival recalled by the one being the Pascua Florida (Palm Sunday), and by the other the Pascua de los Reyes (Epiphany, or Twelfth Day), as those festivals took place on the eve of their arrival in those distant regions. (94) The lapse of years, perfecting geographical studies, has shown Ladrillero to be right in fixing this place as the southern limit of the chain of mountains which extends towards the Atlantic. The difference in the climate is also correct ; its tempera- ture approximates that of the northern regions classified as temperate. The venados are not gamos (fallow deer) as the Spaniards believed, but huemules (Cervus chilensis), which, like all its tribe, lives indiscriminately in woods, and elevated regions, or in inundated and marshy plains, like the Plains of Diana, which Lieut. J. T. Rogers, of the Chilian Navy, thinks should be called " the swamps of the goddess,'' owing to their impassable nature. The officer in question traversed by land, in the years 1878 and 1879, the eastern limits of the channels visited by Ladrillero (see the Anuario Hidrografico, vol. 5, and the first part of the present one, vol. 6). (95) As the text does not mention the position of the channel, we presume it is on the south, and taking the distance (fifteen leagues) into account, it may be inferred to be Skyring Waters. (96) Last Hope Channel, whose waters turn fresh owing to the livers it receives at its head, which is flanked by a beautiful glacier. (97) W< rsley Passage. 98 I The Channel of the Mountains, already mentioned. (99) During the centuries which elapsed between the Pascua de los Jieyrs in 1558, and Kaster 1830, no attempt hat made to find a passage to the Magellan Strait through any of the channels which Ladrillero defines so precisely. p 2 io8 Divergences in tlie Cordillera de las Andes. Arana, in the Anales de la Universidad de Chile (vol. 38, 1871) and in the Anuario Hidrografico de Chile (vol. 14, 1889), with commentaries, it is stated that the large Mesier Channel u diverts to the east, and it is believed to intersect the Cordillera, which here is low and broken ;" and farther on it is stated that, in the authors opinion, the inlet of Calen communicates with the Straits of Magellan." 3. EXPEDITIONS OF THE ' ADVENTURE ' AND THE • BEAGLE ' (1826-1830). Although Ladrillero is quite reliable, of still greater value are the results of the surveys made l>v the English expeditions of the 'Adventure' and the 'Beagle' under the command of Captain Parker King, who visited the coasts of Patagonia between the years 1826 and 1830. Captain Parker King, in a memorandum communicated to the Royal Geographical Society in 1831 (Journal, vol. 1, p. 164) says in reference to the countries visited by Ladrillero : — from Venados Point and the Isla de los licyes ; it consists entirely of plains as far as the northern sea and is of good :i|i]" uMiioe ; and towards the southern sea is a very great snow-clad Serrania, covered with rocks and forests of oak and cypress trees, and a red, a white and a yellow timber which makes excellent fuel, burning well, the country being rocky, and growing in such a soil it must be good for fuel; and the ground heing very good and very cold, it is most er-sential for tin- natives owing to the. nude state in which they go about." * P. 24. — " 10th day. We came out of the port, and such a strong gale blew from the north, that the mast of the canoe 'San Jose' was broken, and she was in great danger of foundering, on account of the heavy seas she was shipping. We had travelled about a league, when we sighted three nearly destroyed • ramaditas' ; we approached, ami upon inspection we. found therein a pump which had been brought from the wreckage of the English ship which was lost near there in the year 1740, as well as many seal hones, signs, according to those who know, that the genteels had been there at the same time that I was in Ofqui. Thus, St. Javier caused us to rejoice on the day of his anniversary. Further on we found three more ' ramaditas' in the mouth and tin- northern point of Mesier < 'reck, which is distinguished amongst the Indians through their never having been able to find the end of it. It diverts to the east, and it is believed to intersect the Cordillera, which here is low and brohen, and this is a matter which deserved to he examined, on account of the great number of inhabitants concerned, and in order to ascertain whether it is a channel which crosses to the North Sea ( Atlantic) or a lagoon, and possibly it muy communicate with the Bay of San Julian, as the above-mentioned creek lies in the latitude of 48" S." P. 32. "Of this Calen tribe there are, in those islands, near Guyaneco, a family called Jorjuip, con- sisting of forty-seven persons, besides twenty people who are already attached to my mission. The remainder • >i' the tribe live on the coasi of the Cordillera, between the lat. 48 and 4H° S., ami at this place (approxi- mately) the creek or channel culled Calen runs to the cast, ami, by means of it, this tribe have communication with tin frit nillij people called Lechcycles ; the horse, the medal, and other things used by Spaniards, lmve their name in the lauguage of this people ; the fact is that if any Spaniards have been lost.it is probable that then descendants arc to be found here, and, in my opinion, the inlet, of Calen communicates with the Straits of Magellan.'' Expeditions of the 'Adventure' and the "Beagle." 109 " The termination of Obstruction Sound is one of the most remarkable features in the geography of this part of South America. In this examination the southern extremity of the Cordillera was ascertained. The eastern shores of the interior channels w< re found to be low plains, with no hills nor mountains visible in the distance, and such being; the feature also of the northern shores of the Otwav and Skvrin;x Waters, it is probable that all the country to the east of the sounds is a continued pampa, or plain." In volume 1 of the account of his voyage (London, 1839) the same Captain Parker King on the Report made by Lieut. Skyring and the mate Kirke, of the ' Beagle,' makes the following remarks upon the expedition to the regions which were explored by the Spanish navigator. In 1829 Lieut. Skyring succeeded in a first exploration in penetrating to the east of the narrow gorge which, in after years, became known as Kirke Narrow, which is situated, as is well known, to the east of the Cordillera Sarmiento, which forms, in this region, the crest of the Andes. Having passed Kirke Narrow,— P. 2(13. — " A clear channel was seen, upwards of two miles wide, running to tin- .\./<. E. for of least eight miles, and then turning directly eastward, between moderately high land. Another channel, nearly a mile and a half wide, trended to the south-east for two or three miles, and then also turned to the eastward. Here they stopped. Lieut. Skyring regretted extremely not being able to prosecute the discovery, and have one more view from the eastern point of the north-east channel, but as only one day's provisions remained, it would have been imprudent to delay his return. It was evident that the;/ had passed, through the ramie of the Cordillera, for to t/ie eastward the country appeared totally different, the highest hill not being above 700 feet.'" Such an interesting discovery was an inducement to carry out more minute explorations of these places, and such were undertaken in the following year :— P. 347. — "After leaving Kirke Narrow on the right hand a wide sound appeared, about nine miles in length; and having traversed it, we turned to the east, through a narrow, intricate channel (White Narrow) obstructed by several small islets, and passed suddenly out into a clear open bay. Our prospect here became wholly different to that which for months before we bad daily witnessed. North and south of us were deep bays. while to the east, between two points seven or eight miles apart, our view was unobstructed by land, and we were sanguine in hoping that we had discovered an extensive body of water. There was also a considerable change in the appearance of the country, which no less delighted than astonished us, for so gratifying a prospect had not been seen since leaving Chiloe'. Eastward, as I said before, we could perceive no land ; to the north-east and south-eastward lay a low, flat country, and the hills in the interior were long, level ranges similar to that near Cape Gregory, while behind us, in ecu-// direction westward, rose high, rugged mountains." V 1 10 Divergences in the Cordillera de los .hides. s P. 349. — "This work was soon finished ; but I was greatly disappointed, when on the summit of the island (Focus Island), with the view that presented itself to the eastward. The low points before mentioned, beyond which from Easter Bay we could distinguish mi land, and between which we expected to make good our course to the south-east, appeared to be connected by a low Hat country. An extensive .sheet of water was indeed observed to the eastward, yet I could, only from its appearance, conclude that it was a spacious bay." P. 352. — "Mr. Kirke returned on the same day as myself, having traced the coast as far as lie had been directed, and found the large expanse of Disappointment Bay nearly bounded bv a flat, stony beach, and the water so shallow that even his whaleboat could seldom approach the shore within a quarter of a mile, but lie had left a small opening in the north-east unexplored which as our last hope, I thought it necessary to examine, and he went for tbat purpose the next morning." P. .'!.">3. — " Late on the 21st, Mr. Kirke arrived. The opening in the north-east (Lasl Hope Inlet) had been traced for nearly thirty miles from the entrance, first to the north east and then to the W.X.W., till it was closed by high land far to the northward of Worsley Pay." P. 354. — "Of this place Mr. Kirke says: 'At the commencement of the north-east sound, there is low land, which extends about thirteen miles up its shores. The entrance is three or four miles wide; but five miles up, the inlet is contracted to about half a mile in width, bv a shoal connecting three islets with the western shore " ' Beyond this island the face of the country begins to alter from low to mountainous land, with long flats in the valleys, and the sound also changes its course more to the north-west, .year a high bluff on the eastern shore, eight miles farther up the sound, the land becomes higher and covered with snow, yet there are still a few level patches between the mountains. From this bluff the sound trends about a point more westerly for five or six miles, to a place where there is a small inlet, on the left, between two snow-covered mountainous ridges. The water there was changed to a clayey colour, and had a brackish taste. Continuing our course for two miles, 1 found a large expanse of water, the north end of which was limited by low land, backed by high, snowy mountains in the distance. Its southern extreme terminated at the foot of high mountains, also covered with snow ; and had a large run of water from a glacier on the western side. . . .' * P. 355. — " " I endeavoured to cross the isthmus where Lieut. Skyring had seen water from Focus Island near Faster Bay, and first attempted it by the course of a fresh-water river, at the head of the bay, but I found the country so thickly covered with stunted wood, about eight feet high and exceedingly prickly, that 1 lost my way twice, and returned to the shore ; I tried again, however, about half a mile more to the eastward, and at last jrot to a hierh part of the land. When there, and mounted on another man's shoulders. I could scarcely see above the trees (which at the roofs were not thicker than a man's wrist): there was evidently a large expanse of water, but I could not 1 This refers t<> the north-eastern extremity el' Last [lope Inlet, and to the valley which apparently stretches as far as .Mount Paine, but which in reality contains the network of lakes, of which the principal is J,akr Maravilla. Expeditions of the * Adventure ' and the " Beagle.' 1 1 1 distinguish mucli of it, I think it probable that it is fresh, as the river, fifty yards wide, is rapid and appears to run out of it. There is not any high land in the neighbourhood, whence such a run of fresh water could be supplied.' " * * Narrative of the Surveying Voyages of H.M.S. ' Adventure' and ' Beagle ' between the years 1820 and 1836, 3 vols., London, 1839. Vol. 1, p. 261. — " The following morning was fine, and the ' Adelaide' moved out of Smyth Channel, the survey of which was completed very satisfactorily, although their progress was slow owing to constant northerly winds. " By towing the ' Adelaide ' during tedious calms they reached Montague Bay in the evening, and next day anchored in Relief Harbour, on the south-west side of Vancouver Island. As it was evident that the " Ancon Sin Salida" was within Piazzi and Ceres Islands, up the west coasts of which they had passed, Lieut. Skyring left the schooner moored in Relief Harbour and proceeded, on August 4, to the southward, in a whale-boat with Mr. Kirke, but he took no more than a week's provisions, that time being all he could devote to this explora- tion. "The 4th, 5th and 6th Lieut. Skyring employed in pulling or sailing to the southward and eastward, through winding and intricate passages, although strong winds and much heavy rain annoyed him and impeded his progress. "On the 7th the weather was much more favourable than it had lately been. The boat pulled and sailed to the southward, and at noon Lieut. Skyring ascended a height, having on each side of it a deep opening, but he was disappointed in the view ; and after taking bearings pulled round the adjacent bights, one of which was exactly opposite Artist Bay in Smyth Channel, and so near it that the two waters were only separated by a few hundred yards ; the other, eastward of the height, was large, and closed at the bottom by very low lands. It was directly supposed to be the "Ancon Sin Salida," but Sarmiento' s description, and the chart compiled by Burney were insufficient to enable them to decide with any degree of certainty. After looking round this bay they continued to the eastward and passed a point beyond which there was apparently a wide channel ; having run about six miles down it without discovering any termination, they hauled their boat up on the beach for the night. "On the 8th two canoes were noticed on the west shore, but seeing strangers the natives, apparently much frightened, all lauded except an old man, and taking with them what they most valued, hid themselves among the brushwood, leaving their canoes fastened to the sea-weed. By some Fuegian words of invitation the men were, however, induced to approach the traffic, receiving for their otter skins whatever could be spared, [n appearance and manner these Indians were exactly similar to the Fuegians, and by their canoes only, which were built of planks, could they be distinguished as belonging to another tribe. " After leaving the natives, the boat passed Cape Earnest, and Lieut. Skyring observed a wide channel leading north and then N.N.W. (1 ) also another opening to the eastward. The wind being easterly, he ran some distance to the northward to gain more knowledge of the first inlet, and having gone ten or twelve miles from Cape Earnest and observing the opening for eight miles beyond to be as wide as where they then were, be concluded it to be a channel, or else a deep sound terminated by low land, for there was evidently a division in the mountains such as to justify this belief. Returning, they entered the smaller opening to the eastward. and were almost assured of its being a channel, for when they were between the points many porpoises and seals were observed, and a tide was found setting westward at the rate of two knots. At dark they hauled their boat on the beach of an excellent bay, at the north side of the narrow reach, and secured her for the night. • On the 9th, shortly after daylight, they set out in a north-east direction to ascei tain the truth of their (1) "Here is certainly the Ancon Sin Salida of Sarmiento, whose journal describes the inlet as terminating in a cove to the north, p. 142. The mountain of Afio Nuevo cannot he mistaken ; indeed the whole of the coast is so well described by the ancient mariner, that we have little difficulty in determining the greater number of places he visited. In all cast's we have, ol course, preserved his names. The chart compiled by Admiral Barney is a remarkable instance of the care which that author" took in arranging it, and how ingeniously and correctly he has displayed his judgment : it is also a proof that our favourite old voyager, Sarmiento, was at least correct in his descriptions, although he appears to have been quite ignorant of the variation of the compass." (See Burney Coll. Voyages, p. 31 ; aud Sarmiento, p. 162.) 1 1 2 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. The channel, fifteen leagues long, described by Ladrillero corresponds with the large expanse of water seen by Kirke, in 1831, to the east of the mountains in the Diana Plains, and which is the Lake Balmaceda, shown in the map of the Argentine Expert. supposition, and before noon knew, beyond a doubt, that they were correct in their belief, being in the narrows of a ohannel before unknown, that had eluded Sarmiento's notice. These narrows which Lieut. Skyring felt assured would lead to a large opening were upwards of three miles in length, and generally about one- third of a mile in breadth. \ strong tide took the boat through, and at the north-eastern extremity, where the narrows were reduced to 400 yards in width, the water, although a neap tide, rushed at the rate of four knots, forming whirling eddies, which were carefully avoided by Lieut. Skyring. At spring-tide, the strength of these rapids would probahly not be less than seven knots. " Having passed through them, a clear channel was seen, upwards of two miles wide, running to the X. b. E. for at least eight miles and then turning directly eastward, between moderately high land. Another channel, nearly a mile and a half wide, trended to the south-east for two or three miles, and then also turned to the eastward. Here they stopped. Lieut. .Skyring regretted extremely not being aide to prosecute the discovery and have one more view from the eastern point of the north-east channel, but as only one day's provisions remained, it would have been imprudent to delay his return. It teas trident that they had passed through the range of the Cordilleras, for to the eastward the country appeared totally different, the highest lull not, being above 700 feet. The opening to the north-east was thought to communicate with the waters lately discovered by Captain Fitz Roy. The latitude was obtained on Point Return, and in the afternoon, reluctantly but anxiously, they retraced their way, and passed that night at their former quarters in Whale- boat Lay. On the 10th at daylight, they proceeded on their return." P. 329. — "Favoured with fine weather, they were unable to land on the north side of Xavier Island, to improve the former survey ; and in the evening anchored in Xavier Bay, where they remained four days; during whioh, Jesuit Sound was explored, and found to terminate in two narrow- inlets. Being a leewardly opening, it is unlit for any vessel to enter. " 'I he name Jesuit Sound, and those of the two inlets at the bottom, P.enito and Julian, are memorials of the missionaries, who, in the expedition of 1778, entered and explored it.* (Agueros, p. 232.) " The ' Adelaide ' anchored the next night in Ygnacio Bay, at the south end of Xavier Island, which Lieut. Skyring recommends for small vessels: the depth of water being six or eight fathoms, and the anchorage well sheltered from the wind. '• On the 31st, they anchored under the Hazard Islands, in the channel's mouth: ' preparatory,' writes Lieut. Skyring, ' to commencing new work with the new year : for since entering the gulf, except while examining the San Tadeo, we had followed the ' Beagle's' track, and only completed what she left unfinished ; but from this place all would lie new. This was the last wild anchorage she had taken ; and although now fixed in the best situation, and in the height of summer, we found our position almost as dangerous as hers.' " Early on January 1st, 183.0, Mr. Kirke went in a whale-boat to examine the openings, at the mouth of which we had anchored : he returned on the 9th having traced to the end, all which had the least appearance < t being channels. The two largest, the south and the east, penetrated into the Cordillera for thirty miles. All these inlets are narrow but deep arms of the sea, running between ranges of very steep hills: their sides affording not the least shelter, even fur a boat, and apparently deserted, for neither seal, nor birds of anj kind weie seen, nor were there even muscles on the rocks. "Mr. Kirke, in his report, sa) s, 'The three northernmost of the inlets of the channel's mouth end with high land on each side, and low sandy beaches at the head, beyond which there rises a ridge of high mountains, about two miles from the beach. The south-east inlets end in rivers rushing down from the mountains, and a rocky shore ; not the smallest shelter could 1 find, even for the boat. Two days and nights " Mr. Kirke, who examined them, says, ' There are two openings opposite Xavier Island, on the main land ; the northern- ii ost runs through high land, and is terminated by a low sandy leach, with a river in the middle, running from a large glacier; tin itluTii inlet is ended by high mountainous land.' Explorations by Cox and Prick. 113 4. EXPLORATIONS BY COX AND FRICK. An interval of several years elapsed between the hydrographic explorations of the 'Adventure' and the 'Beagle,' and those carried out by the Government of I was forced to keep her hauled up on a rock, just about high-water mark, in a strong gale, while the williwaws were so violent that we were all obliged to add our weight to that of the boat, to prevent her from being blown off: and twice we were washed out of our resting places on the beach, by the night tide rising about fifteen or sixteen inches above that of the day. " This opening in the coast is noticed by the pilot Machado (Agueros, p. 210), but by whom the name Channel's Mouth was given does not appear. It is by no means descriptive of what it has been proved to be ; but as Lieut. Skyring thought that a change in the name would not answer any good purpose, he very properly left it unaltered." R 339.— "On the 12th, in full anticipation of making some interesting discovery, we siiled into the 'Canal San Andres,' anchoring in the afternoon in Expectation Bay, where we remained until the 15th. During that time, Mr. Kirke was employed examining the different openings, and tracing this supposed channel farther. At his return, he said that he had found a termination to every opening, even to that in which we then were, which lie had previously thought to be a channel. Like the rest, it extended only to the base of the snowy Cordillera, and then was suddenly closed by immense glaciers. " This information caused great disappointment, as all hope of passing through the Cordillera, thus far northward, was now given up; and I was fearful we should be delayed many more days before we could extricate ourselves from this (as we then supposed) false channel. We were many miles within the entrance ; in that distance there were no anchorages, and the wind being generally from the westward, I anticipated much labour before we could effect our return; but the very next day we were so fortunate as to have a slant of fair wind, by which we cleared this opening, and a second time entered Concepcion Strait." P. 347. — " On the 5th we got clear of this bad and leewardly anchorage, the wind being more to the north- west, but we had still such very squally weather, with rain, that it was a work of several hours to beat to Whale-boat Bay, where we moored in the evening, and prepared for examining the coast with our boats, both to the east and west. Before leaving Leeward Bay, a round of angles was taken from high ground north of the anchorage, and it was satisfactory to reflect that the Ancon Sin Salida was traced far more correctly than could be done in our former visit. There was constant rain and squally weather all the morning, and only in the latter part of the day could any work be performed in the boats. On the following morning Mr. Kirke went to trace the Canal of the Mountains, and I rejoice to sa}' that I was again able to assist in the boat service, and went to examine some openings. After leaving Kirke Narrow on the right hand a wide sound appeared, about nine miles in length ; and having traversed it, we turned to the east, through a narrow intricate channel (White Narrow), obstructed by several small islets, and passed suddenly out into a clear open bay. Our prospect here became wholly different to that which for months before we had daily witnessed. North and south of us were deep bays, while to the east between two points seven or eight miles apart, our view was unobstructed by land, and we were sanguine in hoping that we had discovered an extensive body of water. There was also a considerable change in the appearance of the country, which no less delighted than astonished us: for so gratifying a prospect had not been seen since leaving Chile n. Eastward, as I said before, we could perceive no laud; to the north-east and south-eastward lay a low flat country, and the hills in the interior were long level ranges similar to that near Cape Gregory, while behind us, in every direction westward, rose high rugged mountains. I fully believed that our course hereafter would be in open water, along the shores of a low country, and that we had taken leave of narrow straits, enclosed by snow-capped mountains; the only difficulty to be now overcome was, I imagined, that of getting the vessel safely through the Kirke Narrow ; which, hazardous as I thought the pass, was preferable to the intricate White Narrow, through which we had just passed. Such were my expectations; and with so nolle Q 1 14 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. Chile on the western coast of Patagonia, and during this interval, reports of the existence of livers, flowing from the east and intersecting the Cordillera, were only received from sealers and wood-cutters. a prospect in view, I hastened to look for anchorage for the schooner, which I succeeded in finding at a place named by me Easter Bay, and returned on board the next day through Kirke Narrow. Mr. Kirke employed three days about his work, having traced the inlet, which trended northward from Cape Grey for nearly eleven leagues. He found that it was bordered on each side by a steep range of mountains, broken here and there by deep ravines, which were filled with frozen snow, and surmounted by extensive glaciers, whence huge avalanches were continually falling. The western side of this canal is formed by the southern ter- mination of the Andes. At the northern end are two bays, with sandy beaches, backed l>y low land, which however, rise gradually to high peaked mountains, distant about two miles. " Early on Easier Tuesday we left Whale-boat Bay, and proceeded towards the Kirke Narrow. We had been unvarying in watching and trying the strength of the tides during our stay; but the observations never accorded with those in the narrow, and our calculations this morning, after all the trouble we had taken, were found to be erroneous. On approaching the place we met a stream of tide setting to the south-west let ween two and three knots; the wind was light; we sometimes gained ground — at others were forced back by the strength of the tide — and thus kept hovering near the entrance until eleven o'clock ; when the tide slackened and we neared the eastern end, which is by far the narrowest part, and where, I apprehended, every exertion would be required to clear the rocks: but fortunately it was at the moment of slack water — we passed through easily, and our anticipated difficulty vanished. This eastern entrance is narrowed by two islands, which contract the width at one part to 150 yards. When clear of this passage, Point Return, Point Desire and Easter Bay were in sight, and we found out selves in a channel much wider than those to which we had been lately accustomed. To the south was a deep sound, apparently branching in different directions between high land, but our principal object was the low country to the north-east, and through this we were so sanguine as to make sure of finding a passage. In the evening we anchored in Easter Bay, and moored the schooner in four and six fathoms, over a muddy bottom. " Next morning (12th) the boats were prepared for going away to gain a better knowledge of the country around, to find out the best anehoiage, and to become acquainted with some of the many advantages that, from the prospect before us, we considered ourselves sure of experiencing. Mr. Kirke went to examine Worsley .Sound, and he was desired to examine every opening as he proceeded eastward. As soon as he was gone, I set about measuring a base between Easter Bay and Focus Island, which, being of moderate height, appeared to be a favourable position for extending the triangulation. This work was soon finished, but I was greatly dis-appointed, when on the summit of the island, with the view that piesented itself to the east- ward. The low points before mentioned, beyond which, from Easter Bay, we could distinguish no land, and hetween which we expected to make good our course to the south-east, appeared to be connected by a low tl.it country. An extensive sheet of water was indeed observed to the eastward, yet I could only from its appoarance, conclude that it was a spacious hay. "My attention was next drawn to the southward, in which direction to the east of Woolley Peninsula, appt ared a wide and deep opening, and this I determined to explore on the morrow, for it was now the only course likely to lead me to Fit/. Roy Passage, where it became every day more indispensable that we should arrive, since our provisions were getting short. At my return on board, I learned from Mr. Kirke that he had examined the greater part of Worsley Sound, whose eastern shore formed a line of coast almost connected with that of the bight before us, to which the name of ' Disappointment Bay ' was given. " It was ananged that he should proceed from his last point, and carefully trace the shore of Disappoint- ment May to the eastern headland of the southern opening, down which it. was my intention to proceed. With these objects in view, we left the schooner next morning. A fair wind soon brought me to the entrance, where 1 landed to take bearings on the west side, and arrived at the promontory of ' Hope' by noon. Their I ascended to the summit of the hills, but found them so thickly wooded that my anticipated view oi the land was almost intercepted, and the angles taken were in consequence very limited. "At th:s promontory the course of the channel trends slightly to the eastward, and its direction is Explorations by Cox and Frick. 1 1 f ;-> However, on the north, explorers had succeeded in penetrating the Cordillera. From the Chilian side, Messrs. Hess and Fonk had advanced afterwards to the S.S.E., being open and clear for eight or ten miles, when low land stretching across from the west side intercepts the view. In passing to the southward, I landed frequently to continue the angles, and hauled up at the ch se of day in Kara Avis Bay, still doubtful of the nature of the opening. "Next morning, pa-sing Point Intervene, we pulled into an extensive reach, and having landed to take- hearings, on the east side near Cape Thomas, I proceeded in hopes that beyond the next point some better prospect would be gained. On arriving there, however, my expectations were instantly checked by a bold rising shore, continuing uninterruptedly as far as the Oliver Islands, which we passed soon afterwards. • '• The width of the channel between the Oliver Islands and the northern shore is not more than a mile: but it afterwards incieases, and turns sharply, first to the west and then S.S.W. In the west reach there are many small islands, and the high ranges on both sides being detached from each other, gave me yet some hopes of finding a passage between them. Proceeding in the afternoon, a bight appeared to the S.S.E. about two miles to the westward of (Jape Up-an'-down, which was examined, although there was no prospect of meeting with success by tracing it, and in it were found two small passages leading to the south-east suitable only for boats. We ran down the largest, and a mile within the entrance were embayed. At the bottom of this bight the land was low, and I tried to get on an eminence that I might command a view to the south-east, but was always impeded by an impervious wood. I observed, however, distant high land in that direction, and could see a sheet of water, about six miles from me: but whether it was a lagoon, or a part of the Skyring Water, was doubtful. I could not, at this prospect, rejoice as Magalhaens did, when lie first saw the Pacific, for my situation, I began to think, resembled that of Sterne's starling. " Keeping along the south shore, until late in the evening, we gained the west end of this reach, and finding no shelter for the boat, crossed to the broken land on the west side, and passed that nighr in Hewitt Harbour. " On the following morning, we pursued our course to the S.S.W., and at eleven o'clock reached the extremity of this extensive sound. All our suspense was then removed and all our hopes destroyed ; for the closing shores formed but a small bay in the south-west, and high land encircled every part without leaving an opening. " Throughout the examination of this sound, we did not distinguish any decided stream of tide, and the rise and fall did not appear to have ever exceeded a foot; that there was a slight tidal movement of the water seemed evident, from the streams of foam coming from the cascades; and also from the fallen leaves which were bnrne on the water from the shores of the bays in long lines; but signs like these are indicative of there being no strength of tide; I have frequently noticed such appearances in large sounds or inlets, but never in any channel where there was a current. "The bays between Hope Promontory and Point Intervene are frequented by immense numbers "I black-necked swans (Anser nigricollis) : hundreds were seen together; they appeared not at all wild when we first passed ; but on our return, there was no approaching them within musket-shot. Many ducks and coots were also observed. On a rock, near the Oliver Islands, was a small ' rookery ' of hair seal ; and in our progress down the sound, we passed some few shags and divers. This is the enumeration of all we saw, and these few species seem to possess, undisturbed, this Obstruction Sound ; for we neither observed any wigwams, nor saw any traces of inhabitants. "Having no interest in remaining, after some necessary angles were taken on Meta Islet, we commenced our return; and, with a fair wind, made good progress, landing only where it was necessary for angles, and reached the vessel on the evening of the next day (16th). I have fully stated the examination of this sound and have been perhaps, unnecessarily particular and diffuse; but I think that when its near approach to tin Skyring Waters is known by others, it will be considered very singular that no communication exists between them. To every one on board the ' Adelaide ' it was a great disappointment. The only inlet now remaining to be explored was through the S.S.E. opening, east of Point Return ; which, on the 18th, I went to examine. Mr. Kirke returned on the same day as myself, having traced the coast as far as he had been directed, and found the large expanse of Disappointment Bay nearly bounded by a fiat stony beach; and the water so shallow, that even his whale-boat could seldom approach the shore within a quarter of a mile; but he had Q 2 1 1 6 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. over the lake of Todos Ids Santos as far as Nahuel-Huapi: and the Chilian Engineer, Seiior Guillermo Cox, crossing the same region, had returned to left a small opening in the north-east unexplored, which, as our last, hope, I thought it necessary to examine : and he went, for that purpose the next morning. Situated as we were, we had great reason to lie very earnest in the search lor a passage; and I think that no channel into the Skyring Water, however small and intricate, would have been left rmattempted at this crisis. During the vessel's continuance in Easter Bay, the men who remained on board were employed in clearing the hold, and completing wood and water to the utmost, in order that wo might not be delayed at any anchorage after our departure thence. "On the 18th I went in a boat down the opening east of Point Return, and by noon reached Virginia Island. Two miles to the southward the channel branches to the south-east and to the south-west; I followed the latter branch, lauding where necessary to continue the angles, and arrived in the evening at the extremity, which was closed by low land ; in the middle was a wide and rapid stream. The slot of a deer was seen along the margin of the shore. Next day we proceeded down the south-east branch to the centre island, thence steered towards anjopening that appeared in the south-west, and, passing through a narrow winding passage, entered a large 'hay, which was closed at the bottom by low land, similarly to the branch examined yesterday. < mly an opening to the north-east now remained to be explored ; but night coming on, we hauled np in Tranquil Bay, near the northern extremity. The north-east opening was found to trend eastward for three miles, and then turn to the south-east, forming an extensive bay, whose shores were encircled by low land, and only sepa- rated from Obstruction Sound by an isthmus two miles broad. Our search being concluded, I hastened back, and arrived on board the schooner late in the evening. Finding Mr. Kirke had not returned, I still entertained some little hope, and the vessel was prepared to move either one way or the other as soon as he came back. "Late ou the 21st Mr. Kirke arrived. The opening in the north-east had been traced for nearly thirty miles from the entrance, first to the north-east, and then to the W.N.W. till it was closed by high land far to ihe northward of Worsley Bay. Many deer were seen on the plains eastward of the inlet, and some were shot at but escaped. Swans, ducks and coots had been killed in such numbers that on their return all the schooner's crew were plentifully supplied. Of this place; Mr. Kirke says : ' At the commencement of the north-east sound there is low land, which extends about thirteen miles up its shores. The entrance is three or four miles wide; but, five miles up, the inlet is contracted to about half a mile in width by a shoal connecting three islets with the western shore. These islets were literally surrounded by black-necked swans, mixed with a few which had black-tipped wings: the male of the latter has a peculiar note which sounds like " Ken Kank," but the female only sounds " Kank." ' " A few coots were shot in this neighbourhood, out of an immense quantity seen. In each of two flocks I think, there must have been upwards of a thousand. "From these islets the sound trends nearly north for seven or eight miles, when it is again narrowed by an island, on each side of which there is a narrow passage for a vessel ; but the eastern one is the best. The few bays near here are tit for small ves>els only. " Beyond this island the face of the country begins to alter from low to mountainous land, with long flats in the valleys, and the sound also changes its course more to the N.W. Near a high bluff on the eastern shore, eight miles further up the sound, the land becomes higher and covered with snow ; yet there are still a few level patches between the mountains. From this bluff the sound trends about a point more westerly for five or six miles, to a place where there is a small inlet, on the left, between two snow- covered, mountainous ridges. The water there was changed to a clayey-colour, and had a brackish taste. Continuing our course for two miles. 1 found a large expanse of water, the north end of which was limited by low land, backed by high snowy mountains in the distance; its southern extreme terminated at the foot of high mountains, also covered with snow; and had a large run of water from a glacier on the western side. In returning we saw some deer on the eastern shore of tho low land, between the islands of the second teach, but could not get within gun-shot: they appeared to be of a dark colour, and fully as large as a guanaco. Some of our men thought they could distinguish small straight horns, but I could not myself seo them. I endeavoured to cross the isthmus, where Lieut. Skyring had seen water from Focus Island, near Easter Hay, anil first attempted it by the. course of a fresh-water river, at the head of the bay ; but I found the Country so thickly covered with stunted wood, about eight feet high, and exceedingly prickly, that I lost Explorations by Cox and Frick. 1 1 7 Chile by the Ipela Ridge Pass, near Lake Laear. In the report of this latter explorer, communicated to the Royal Geographical Society, in 1864, by Sir Woodbine Parish, the following passage appears: — " Soon after we found ourselves fairly in the Cordillera, and passing the Cerro Trumbal, wended our way along the northern shores of the Lake Lacar (the waters of which run towards the Pacific) where we established our bivouac for the night. (This lake is 1749 feet above the sea, and fifteen or sixteen miles in length, by three or four wide). "In this part of the Cordillera of the Andes the ' linea divisoria' or parting of the waters, leaving its general direction north and south, makes a great bend or inflection to the eastward, of nearly fifty miles, with a remarkable depression, encircling the great Lake of Lacar, which although thus in appearance situated on the eastern side of the range in reality discharges its waters into the Pacific. Nevertheless, its eastern extremity is not more than twelve or fifteen miles from the sources of some of the tributaries of the Atlantic. The Lake of Lacar is united with the Lake of Pirihueico, which latter is drained by the river Callitue, which falls into the Shoshuenco from the north. Both these run together into the Lake of Refiihue, the drain (outlet) of which is the River of Yaldivia. It is stated upon undoubted authority that three Indians, who had crossed the Andes from Yaldivia, finding upon their return the passes blocked by snow, managed to reach on horseback the Lake of Pirihueico, where, building a canoe, they passed down the river Callitue into the Lake of Ilihihue to the astonishment of the people of Yaldivia, who at first would hardly believe in the possibility of opening such a communication." At about the same time Don Guillermo Frick, who resided at Yaldivia, and who was much interested in the reports he had received with regard to a fluvial pass through the Cordillera de los Andes from the " Pampas of Buenos Aires " to the city of Valdivia, determined to ascertain for himself the veracity of these reports. my way twice, and returned to the shore ; I tried again, however, about half a mile more to the eastward, and at last got to a high part of the land. When there, and mounted on another man's shoulders, I could scarcely see above the trees (which, at the roots, were not thicker than a man's wrist) : there was evidently a large expanse of water, but I could not distinguish much of it. I think it probable that it is fresh, as the river, fifty yards wide, is rapid, and appears to run out of it. There is not any high land in the neighbourhood, whence such a run of fresh water could be supplied. " ' I saw numbers of deer tracks about this place, and the boat's crew observed three deer similar to those above-mentioned.' (Kirke, M.S.) " We weighed on the 22nd, and towed out of Easter Bay, with the hope of repassing Kirke Narrow ; but shortly afterwards so dense a fog arose, that we could distinguish no land, and were unable to profit by the advantage of a light fair wind, with otherwise favourable weather. In the afternoon, when it cleared up a little, we anchored in Fog Bay, on the west side of the channel, about three miles from Kirke Narrow." * Expedition across the Southern Andes of Chile, with the object of opening a new line of communicaticn from the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean, by the lake of Nahuel-Huapi, and the rivers Limay and Negro, by Eon Guillermo Cox, of Chile. (Translated from the Spanish and communicated by Sir Woodbine Parish, K.C.H.. F.R.S., to the Eoyal Geographical Society, 1864). u8 Divergences in the Cordillera de los .hides. The account he wrote,* upon his return from his journey, of which the most important part is hereinafter transcribed, leaves no room for doubt that Lake Lacar is enclosed to the east of the Cordillera, and the map, by which the account is accompanied, shows correctly the watershed across the same:— P. 47. — " For some years there were vague reports in circulation that the Valdivia, or Callecalle river, rises in the Pampas of Buenos Aires ; once there was mention of an attempt which Herr Wilhelm Dull wished to make, to sail through the Cordillera; another time a short communication was made by Jeronimo Agiiero respecting the Lake of Rihihne — (whence flows our Valdivia river) — and the conjectured mineral wealth of that region, a communication including also the following statement regarding the water-connection with the other side : ' The lake, besides, has not yet been navigated by civilised persons. It, is known that, by one of the two rivers emptying into it, it is possible to go as far as Panguipulli, but the experiment has yet to lie made whether it is possible to navigate the other river as far as Neltume Lake, and thence by another river reach Argentine territory, as natives of those districts are said to have done.' "Although at the first glance, it seems very improbable that a river cutting through the Cord ill, iii could flow from the Pampas of Buenos Aires to the Pacific, still we ilid not regard it as fabulous, for, besides the fact that tin- level of the Pampas at the foot of the Cordillera is much higher than, that of the plains on the Chilian side, we already knew of another river (the Huampoe, falling into the Villa Rica Lake), which with some certainty, or at least probability*, rises in the Pampas, and is navigable, if not over its whole course, at least for several leagues." P. 56. — " What 1 could learn further concerning the water connection between Rifiihue Lake and the Pampas, I set down here. In an inquiry which the judge of Quinchilca arranged with Pascual Amoyao, the latter acknowledged that the Indians went in a canoe from Rifiihue to the Pampas, that there was only a narrow passage between rocks, but that one could get through; that they, the Indians, had kept it secret, since, if once a Spaniard passed that way, all would wish to take this route on account of its great convenience. "Julian Arango had informed me that Canin Amoyao, an Indian of Rifiihue (not of Panguipulli), and travelling companion of the Cazique Patino, was in Valdivia. with his brother, Sebastian Arango. I hoped to hear from Canin the confirmation of the tidings given by Ovalle and Valverde, but he was not disposed for this, and besides, he understood and spoke Spanish badly, or at least acted as if he did not understand me. So he onlv acknowledged that, with the deceased Paul Patino, he had made excursions into the Pampas for half a year and had crone as far as the Limay river, i.e. the river Nee/re ; in returning they had not been able to cross by the pass of Ranco on account of the snow, and had held on their way to the Lake of Nontue where they found Cancho. Under his guidance thev had gone on foot, cutting their way through Quila and Colhue brushwood, always along the ban kof the river which from the Nontue Lake flows into Lake Neltume, and from this * Der Binihue — See in Chile und die tiefe Pa^soiikurig dcr Amies 1 ■■ i lU'inselhen, von Wilhelm Frick (mit Earte, s. Tafel 3). Mittheilungen aus J. Perthes' geographischer Anstalt, etc., von Dr. A. Petermann, Gotha, 180-t, pp. 47-59. Explorations by Cox and Frick. 119 into the Panguipulli Lake ; and which river is really the Valdivia, and that along this course they crossed many rocks and streams, but no mountain ; the Lake .of Neltume only had they traversed in a canoe, for the rivers, on account of their strong currents, could not be navigated. Leanca had not come with them " Further, I have learned with tolerable certainty the following particulars partly concerning earlier reports. Our Valdivia, or Callecalle, rises in Lake Neltume to the east of Lake Pirihueico, and immediately after leaving the latter has the name of Calletue ; it unites with the outflow of Lake Panguipulli, and falls, as shown on the map, under the name of Shos-huenco, into Lake Rifiihue, from which it issues as the Valdivia River. Lake Pirihueico and Lake Neltume are connected; on this side (the eastern) is called Neltume, and on the other Pirihueico; the latter is in the Pampas. It is twice the length of Rifiihue, i.e. ten or twelve leagues long. On the other hand, Lake Nontue is not identical with Lake Pirihueico, but must be connected with it by a short river, the Huahuum, which probably also passes through a small lake. Lake Nontue is called also Lacar, taking nearly the shape given on the map. At the narrow part is the crossing which Indians name Nontue. Messrs. Muhm, who some years ago went to the Pampas, affirmed, in opposition to the statement of the Indian Remigio Amoyao, that the Huahuum river flows into Lacar Lake, whence it would follow that the Pirihueico has two outlets on opposite sides, and that the Lacar has its outflow to the Rio Negro. It is now clear that Amoyao was right, that the Huahuum flows from the Lacar Lake into the Pirihueico, and could never have been seen by the Muhms since they were on the opposite side ot the lake. The river these gentlemen crossed flows indeed into Lake Lacar, but is called the Chachum, and comes from the little lake of Quege, which receives its waters from, the Cordillera. This information I received from one of the Spanish-speaking Indians from the neighbourhood of Ranco Lake, Jose Antonio Panguilef, a relation of the Cazique Checapan of Lacar, who had often been there and bad accompanied the Muhms on their journey. My map has been corrected by his drawing made on the spot, and in the main, agrees with that of the Muhms."' ■&■ If Lake Lacar is situated in the Pampa of Buenos Aires, that is to say to the east of the Cordillera de los Andes, it will be apparent to the Tribunal that necessarily the boundary line in the high Crests of the Cordillera, which divides the waters of the same, could not fail to cross over the interoceanic watershed. Sefior Frick has drawn conclusions from the fact of the existence of fluvial connection between Chile and the Argentine Republic. He published a series of articles in Chile upon this question previous to 1881. In one published in the Reforma Pacifica (Buenos Aires) of duly 11, 1865, it is stated that this interoceanic communication exists,* and in another article which appeared in the 'Deutsche Nachrichten,' of Valparaiso, at the close of ls95, he asserts that there * The Water Connection of Chile with the Argentine Eepublic by the Einihue. Extract from a report by WermanJi's GeographiMihe MHthrihuigeri . Ccrro Tralcan ORIGESTALKARTE LAGUXA 1IE R 1 5' I II IT E IM SUDLICHEN CHILE A. \ , ITnter Mitwirkung des Don Enrique Lagre/p aufgenoinincn von WUheLm Frit k . 1862. - Cprro Quilahucntru v M.iasfst ,il> 1 200000 \t,a* if- : c < idu tfar*xt ui*rije (rtqerui beteal V A. .>■:,: l^i^w ''■ ' ;a.. i. eSbS. ^n.'fr-m^da ME SEEN VON VALDiVIA (S.CHILE) —. a LagJ ileA^l.-irua COTxoXralc.lsJ^/ DIE SEEN VON VALIHVIA (S.CHILE) natl , Maasfctab 12000 000 •>..,.). den bisherifen Vorstelhing nr-w — ^l—hr^t -! ■■■? I ■■? f den Beobachtungenund Erkundifjungen-vun Fric* 1862 C> ' ' ■ i i '<■- ,\ft f i< eft > *j ~ J ° / _-_— ^-^- -* - — —■ u WILLIAM FRICK, 18G2. (From Tctcrmann's Geographische Mittheilungen, 1864. Published by permission of Justus Perthes, Gotha.) Explorations by Cox and Frick. 121 were communications from 1862 to that year, corroborating the fact that the river Vaklivia takes its rise in the Lake of Lacar on the eastern side of the Cordillera de los Andes, which it intersects; and he also stated that, as early as the year 18H2 he communicated the information lie had obtained la the President of tin Republic of Chile, and that that information was published in 1805.* William Frick, in the Reforma Pacifica, Buenos Aires (July 11, 1865). From Zeitschrift fiir Allgemeine Erdkunde, Neue Folge, vol. 19, Berlin, 1805. P. 370. 1. "From the seaport of Corral on the Pacific to the place Arique. The distance amounts t" nine leagues. The navigation of the small river is easy for lighter boats. 2. " From Arique to Hacienda de San Pedro. The distance by the river is ten leagues. The navigation of this stretch is attended with few difficulties. 3. " From San Pedro to the Lake Rinihue. The north side of the waterway is in the hands of inde- pendent Indians. In consequence of the extensive curve the distance amounts to eight leagues. Here tin- river forms the waterfall of Gicho, which, however, is said to be easily obviated. 4. " The Laguna of Rinihue. Excellent navigation of five and a half leagues. 5. " The river Shos-huenco or Calitiie. , Forms the outflow of the Lake Piiehnaico into the Rinihue. It has but one rapid, easily overcome. The length of the waterway is said not to exceed eight leagues. 6. "The Laguna of Neltume or Pirehuaico. A comfortable waterway for boats of from ten to twelve leagues. 7. "From the Laguna of Pirehuaico to the Laguna of Lacar, or the river Hualmum. Very easy naviga- tion of twelve leagues. The first three leagues have a south-east direction as far as the place called Notue, the narrowest part. The rest are direct east. 8. " Froin the Laguna Lacar to the river Catapuliclie or Chumchuin, i.e. the eastern outflow of the Laguna Lacar. This is not yet quite precisely determined. All Indians, however, agree in saying that besides the said western water communication the Laguna Lacar has also an eastern outflow which is an affluent, of the Rio Negro emptying into the Atlantic Ocean, and bears the name of Rio de las Siete Rocas (tin- seven rocks). The latter empties itself, in Lat. 30° S. and Long. 74° 15' W. of Paris, into the Rio Catapuliche, which is one of the principal tributaries of the Rio Negro. A map of South America, published in 1840 in Magdeburg by Albrecht Piatt, shows this river-course with almost perfect correctness. The distance between the Laguna of Rinihue and the river Catapuliche or even Chumchuin is not more than twenty leagues. There would therefore remain hardly a few leagues distance between the Laguna Lacar and the Catapuliche, which, in consideration of the flatness of the territory, should easily be rendered navigable. 9. "The Catapuliche or Rio ISegro. This river was in 1782 and 1783 explored by the Spaniard Villarino. It is but five leagues long, falling, as it does, into the river Limay flowing from the south. whence both take the conjoint name of Rio Negro. From the point of junction there are 100 leagues t<> its outflow in the Atlantic. "By way of capitulation, the first four sections of the river communication present no difficulties what- ever. One exception is the part between the Laguna Rinihue and the river Catapuliche. Seeing the distance between the two amounts to twenty leagues, and in this stretch lie the Laguna Pirehuaico with nineteen leagues and the Laguna Lacar with twelve leagues, it f.Jlows that even if the bends of the three outlets Shos-huenco, Huahiium and Siete Rocas were ever so great, the total distance, in which alone throughout the whole way between the two oceans there would be any necessity for erecting important waterworks, would hardly be more than fifteen leagues. The erections might include, e.g. sluices, or a canal like that of Morris, though infinitely cheaper than this, which in its course of thirty-six leagues has one fall of 1024 feet. " There is therefore every probability of establishing direct shipping communication between the river Valdivia and the Kio Negro." * Lake Lacar and The Boundary Question, by Guillermo Frick, Valdivia, October 25, 1895. "In the article under the heading 'Interior,' which appeared in No. 2535 of the Deutsche Nach- richten of the 12th inst., it is said that, some twenty years ago, I sustained the theory, at the time most hypothetical, of a connection between the waters of our Rio de Valdivia and Lake Lacar. As, owing to the R 122 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. In 1882, Senor Frick continued to call attention to the existence of a fluvial passage, through liinihue, to the Argentine Republic, and to the possibility of lapse of twenty years, I could not myself exactly recall what I had said and published about the notable Rinihue Pass, which I discovered, and of which nothing is known either now or through the Spanish discoverers, I tried to refresh my memory with what I wrote in my correspondence on the subject of the ( 'ordillerau passes. " This correspondence is found in the following numbers of the Deutsche Nachrichten of November i - and 29, and December 2, 1882 ; April 28, May 16 and 23, 1883 ; January 2 and 16, March 20, April lOand June 12, 1886; March ID and April 30, 1887; March 14, April 4 and June 9, 1888; and February 2 and March 16, 1889. " I give the numbers in case any of my readers may desire fuller information concerning the C'ordilleran passes and the boundary question, the gravity of which is constantly increasing; for the greater portion of the public, however, this short extract from said correspondence will suffice. "The correspondence of November 17, 1882 (published in No. 29) commences as follows: — "'Resuming my correspondence where it left off in my previous letter of the loth inst., I must recall, before everything, that, last year, prior to the settlement of the boundary dispute between ourselves and the Argentine Republic, taking advantage of my friendly relations with one of the Ministers of that period, I addressed to hi in, on .May 21, 1881, a note in which, entirely supporting the opinion of Seiior Redslob, I railed his attention to the exceptional importance of the < 'ordillerau passes in Villa Kica and Rinihue, and to the necessity of immediately occupying them. " ' Soon afterwards, the dispute was settled to the satisfaction of both Republics (by the Treaty of July 23, 1881) and we must not be surprised that the occupation of these passes has been abandoned. Nevertheless, to lose sight of this question because, for the moment, no reason for alarm exists, and to permit the sister Republic to take possession of these passes, would be worse than foolishness, it would be a crime !' '• And further on : — '"A letter from Valdivia, published some two months ago in the Mercurio, which speaks of a "Rio Misterioso," also referred to by Senor Vicuna M. in his article, has shown me that, in Valdivia itself, all the information I gave, more than twenty years ago, concerning this Ilio Misterioso, has remained unknown; this liver is none other than our ' lalle < 'alio or Rio de Valdivia. Before everything, I must rectify an errorin the translation of the paragraph referring to this liver: it is not ''a traveller proceeding from Argentina" who gives particulars concerning this Rio Misterioso; what the Valdivian correspondent says is that " this river proceeds from Argentina.'' It precisely refers to our Rio de Valdivia, which originate* in the majestic Lake I. 'itur, on the eastern roast of the Andean Cordillera, which it traverses.' "In a detailed report, dated May 14, 1862, which I laid before the then President of the Republic, Senor Joaquin Perez, I told him that it hail come to my knowledge that, some years previously, Cacique Paulino l'atino, of Futronhue (near Lake Ranco) had reached the Pampa, during winter, through the Ranco Pass, when the Ranco Pass was closed by snow, with other Indians he met in the Pampa, that had traversed the Cordillera in a small boat, arriving as far as Lake. liinihue, which is found on this side of the Cordillera. "Urged on by this information, 1 organised an expedition to Lake Eihihue, for the purpose of travelling thence by water to the Pampa. " The report of this voyage was accompanied by a well drawn map of Lake Pifiihue, carefully laid down with the assistance of my companion, Senor Enrique Lagreze (who afterwards became my son-in-law ', as well as by another carefully detailed map of the navigable rivers of the department of Valdivia. It was in vain that, 1 hoped that His Excellency would take the necessary measures for following the detailed study of this extraordinary fluvial pass; I was not even told whether my report had reached the Minister, which I only casually learned, later on, from Senor Guillermo < 'ox. Our expedition reached as far as the point where the Rio Shos-huenco discharges into the lake, it being impossible for us to overcome the two small cascades which are found exactly in the mouth of the river which, beyond, appeared to be perfectly calm ; all the ropes, ami other means which we might have used, had been forgotten by our boatmen, fortunately for us. " I say 'fortunately for us,' as we learned, later on, that notice of our voyage had been obtained by the [ndians Of Shos-huenco, who made preparations to murder us on our arrival. The expedition could not be Explorations by Cox and Prick. 123 establishing a system of navigation between the two oceans. The opinion of such a competent person as Sefior Friek deserves to be taken into "consideration. In 1862 he advised the Government of Chile to occupy the Pass of Rinihue, which is undoubtedly the most important in the Cordillera, and by " Pass" he means a point near the overflow of Lake Lacar, between this and Lake Rinihue, in the Cordillera. Senor Flick maintained tins, when he stated that the dispute was settled, to the satisfaction of both Republics, by the Treaty of -Inly 23, 1881, and it is therefore not surprising that the occupation of these passes has been abandoned. The line drawn by the Argentine Expert in the part objected to by the Chilian Expert, passes through the point best indicated as a pass in the overflow intersecting the Cordillera at that point where the former divides the chain of Ipela, which in that place forms the crest of the mountain range. r Jhe opinion of the explorer Cox has already been quoted. In Petermann's Mittheilungen there appears an analysis of Cox's labours, which is opposed to that of Frick, with regard to the interoceanic communica- tion through the Lake Lacar, but is corroborative of the opinion previously expressed that "this lake is situated to the east of the principal chain of the Andes," which has since been recognised as the boundary between Chile and the Argentine Republic* concluded later on, owing to the want of indispensable, though trifling, means, nevertheless, from various in- formation received later, it must be admitted that a fluvial connection between Lake Lacar, on the eastern side of the Andean Cordillera, and Lake Rinihue, on the western side, exists. " A postscript to the same letter (published in the December number) also says : — '•'It now occurs to me, that my readers might desire to have some particulars of the notable fluvial pass of Eiiiihue, and the possibility of establishing a system of navigation between the two oceans. Permit me, therefore, to add that, in numbers 483, 484 and 485 of the Patiia of Valparaiso, under the title Communi- cation with the Argentine Republic via Riiiihue, my above quoted report to President Perez was reproduced, and that under the same title, the Patiia published two other articles, one in No. 500 of March 24. 1865, and the second in No. 557. (May 22 of same year).' " I must also observe that the position of the southern extremity of the Rinihue Volcano, which is shown in the small annexed map in lat. 39° 52' 30" S. and in long. 74° 10' W. of Paris, is not exact, as it was merely calculated by a single observation by means of the compass, taking relatively known points for base. "It is also my desire that everybody interested in the great spectacles of nature, might have the opportunity of visiting the magnificent Lake Einihue, and possibly, the other Cordilleran lakes, a thing which again, one will probably be able to do very soon with comfort and without danger. "Probably ! — How could I still retain the illusion that anything would he done to take possession, or to, at least, facilitate communications with this pass which 'is indubitably the most important of all the Cordillera,' when for more than twenty years nothing has been done — absolutely nothing? " To all appearances, past neglect will bring upon us the war which we are now informed is inevitable. — 'Signed) Guillermo Frick." * Cox' Reise nach der Laguna de Lacar in den Siillichen Andes und Bemerkungen dariiber von Wilhelm Frick. Mittheilungen, 1865, p. 268. p. 208. — " In a book published at Santiago de Chile at the end of the year 1863, Guillermo E. Cox R 2 124 Divergences in the Cordillera tie los Andes. 5. EXPLORATIONS BY YIDAL GORMAZ AND SIMPSON. Seiior Francisco Vidal Gormaz, whose name has already been mentioned. expressed in 1869 some doubts with regard to the alleged interoceanic corn- describes a journey lie performed in the years 18G2 and I860 over two passes of the Andes in the most southern part of I 'hile. "He travelled, namely, from Puerto Montt, capital town ami seaport of the Colon isation-territory of Llanquihue, over the Laguna of Todos Santos and the Perez Rosales Pass to the Nahuel-huapi Lake, de- scended a short stretch down the Rio Limay or Negro forming the outlet of the Nahuel-huapi, suffered shipwreck on the journey, (ell into the captivity of the Pehuenches, anil, in order to procure his ransoinfrora Yahlivia, travelled across the Ranco or Lifen Pass, thither and hack, and onee more to Valdivia. lie "thus thrice followed the same route between Valdivia, Ranco Lake, Lacar Lake, and the districts of the Pehueu- ches at the head-waters of the Rio Negro. " His report of his journey in full, preceded by a historic survey of earlier journeys made in those regions nid followed by a synopsis of the results gathered by him, distributed according to subjects, and dealing with geography, orography, hydrography, botany, zoology, climatology, and language — the whole supplemented with a mail, contains a great deal of new and valuable matter. Especially valuable are the details respecting the Ranco Pass. ''As Cox on his journeys between Valdivia and the Rio Negro repeatedly passed by the Laguna do Lacar and completely went round its north, west and east sides, crossed its outlet Hualium, and touched the Queni (Quege) Lake, he was in a position to check the infoimation given by W. Frick (Geog. Mitth. lso4, Table 3 and p. 47) which shows the Laguna de Lacar as fountain lake of the Valdivia River and at the same time an affluent of the Rio Negro. " Cox maintains that the Lacar Lake lies In the cast of tile main chain of the Andes and yet belongs to tin river basin of ike Great Ocean, since its outlet reaches through the Pirehueico and Rinihue Lake to the Valdivia River. He also maintains that from the hills hemming in the Lacar Lake on the cast side, the traveller at once reaches certain affluents of the Rio Negro at only fifteen to twenty kilometres' (nine to twelve miles) distance from the lake, and that, accordingly, there exists in fact a deep depression in the Amies and a remarkable water connection between the east ami west side of the mountain. According to Cox, however, the Lear Lake sends no affluent to tin- Rk> Negro. The hills in question form the continuation of the main watershed, which describes a large curve to the east. A utilisation of that depression is now in his opinion impossible, the lakes having very steep banks and the connecting water-arteries being real torrents with many cascades, ('ox is of opinion that a railway through this mountain. fissure would offer less diffi- culties than stood in the way of the one from Valparaiso to Santiago. "Unfortunately, the map, especially accompanying Cus's report, does not bear the stamp of precision such as at once shows that one has here to do with actual drawings and measurements. Xor are contradic- tions wanting in it. In the statements, e.g., respecting the height of the Lacar Lake, that on the profile of the map and in the small table of heights on p. 206. of the book gives 416, whereas that on p. 132 gives 530 metres. Decisive force cannot therefore be conceded to Cox's labours in respect of questions raised by Kiiek ; and if we at once refuse to believe in a double outlet oi' the Lacar Lake towards the Atlantic and towards the Pacific, we are constrained to give oar faith again to the views of Prick. From Valdivia he writes under date, Pec. 20, 186.4: — '" Although Cox's description of his journey bears, on its face the mark of superficiality, I will yet, without (haling up their numerous mistakes, make mention how, at any rate after the misadventure of his expedi- dion, Cox has inwardly admitted that the considerable costs might have been employed to better purpose in exploring the infinitely more important passes of Rinihue and Villarica; and for that very reason he sets himself with all pains to throw them into discredit. As we are, besides, very well acquainted with his capacity for such like examinations, we should not be at all surprised if later travellers were to find the Explorations by I Ida I Gormaz and Simpson. 125 munication, but he did not dispute the position of the Lake Lacar with reference to the Cordillera.* Seiior Vidal Gormaz carried out an expedition to the Bodadahue river, at the end of December 1662, and in his Report says — P. 671. — "Returning to the Lake of Comao, it is 3" 5 miles wider than shown in the map mentioned, and at the bottom of it is the outlet of the large river Bodadahue, which is navigable for large ships for a distance of five miles, and ten miles for boats. After this the river becomes very rapid, and is full of stones and small cataracts which render navigation impossible. " When I could no longer navigate it, I left the sloop which I had and continued the journey by land, without losing sight of the river, and after nine days we reached its source, which is formed by three beautiful cataracts; the first is 120 metres (394 feet) above the reservoir of the cataracts, the second is 160 metres (525 feet) above the first, and the third is 200 metres (656 feet) higher than the second. I have never seen a grander or more imposing sight. The length of the river is forty-sis geographical miles (of sixty miles to a degree). From the reservoir of the cataracts are to be seen, to the east, two large gaps which afford a passage into the wilds of Patagonia, without it being necessary to cross any mountain the whole Lake of Lacar, which he sets down on his map at 416 and in the text at 530 metres, not even so many feet. Withal Cox does not scruple to assign all the data cominunioited by me to the result of his own explorations. " ' Headers of my report respecting Rinihue will be interested to hear that, as the result of later informa- tion, it is hardly any longer to be doubted that, besides our Valdivia River, an affluent of the Rio Negro springs from the Lacar Lake. Further, according to recent information, it is highly probable that the Huechuoi-Lafquen, spoken of by the Jesuit Falkner, is the same lake as lies at the eastern exit of tin- Pass of Villarica, and that out. of it the waier flows on one side through the Chumehuin or Catapuliche into the Rio Negro, on the other through the Huampoe diagonally through the Cordilleras into the Lake of Villarica. We should by this account have two lakes at no great distance from one another sending their waters in contrary directions to two different seas. " 'Another piece of news touches on the outbreak, presumably a year ago, of the Volcano of RiSihue, which had been supposed to be extinct. Its summit lies about 12,500 varas (10,448 metres =34,280 feet) to the south-east of the east end of the lake of the same name. Although it is exceedingly difficult to obtain credible reports respecting those districts which are inaccessible to us, and the events there happening, I yet hope in the course of this summer to gather some trustworthy information on the presumed action of the volcano.' " * P. 6, Note 12. — " In venturing an opinion about Lakes Lacar and Queni, we have borne in mind the description and data which were given us by some Indians who were acquainted with this locality, as well as the data furnished by Don Guillermo E. Cox, in his Voyage in the Northern Regions of Patagonia, who, according to the map of his work, also included Lake Perihueico. This is also shown in Dr. Guillermo Frick's map, published in the German periodical, Mittheilungen aus Justus Perthes' Geographischer Anstalt iiber wichtige neue Erfoischungen auf dern Gesammtgebiete der Geographie, von Dr. A. Petermann, lg i This last map calls the lake (which Dr. Cox designates as Perihueico), Neltume or Perihueico, but both agree that these lakes send their waters to Reiiihue. " The question as to how Lake Lacar drains has become a very important problem in the geography of Valdivia, as some people think that it drains on both sides of the Andes, that is to say that it divides its waters east and west; but this cannot possibly occur. In any case the survey of this important region of the Andes will instruct us, later on, as to what really takes place, and will, without doubt, substantiate the fact that such a supposition caunot be correct, in the case of such a Cordillera as that of the Andes. (Coutinuacion de la exploration del Rio Valdivia y sus afluentes, por Francisco Vidal Gormaz, Santiago de Chile, 1861*. ) 126 Divergences in the Cordillera de las Andes. of the urn/ and the Pampas. I tried to go there, but having only two days' provisions, we returned to Comao without my having had the satisfaction of realising my desire, which was to see something of the plains of Patagonia or Eastern Chile These woods, which offer such an easy passage, I think, will, later on, facilitate the extension of the Republic, as if a transandine railway is constructed, it must pass through these districts on account of the suitability offered for such an undertaking by the valley we crossed and which leads to the Pampas." * These explorations showed clearly that the Pass of Oyarzum (where the river Bodadahue takes its source), in the summit of the Cordillera, dominates ilu Patagonian Pampas. In 1871, Sefior Vidal Gormaz continued his investigations. He explored the river Puelo, and in his Report states f : — P. 65. — " Being on the summit of one of those hills, my companions Oyarzum and Tellez climbed up tall trees and succeeded in seeing a stretch of beach about 600 metres (19G9 feet) in extent, doubtless belonging to some lake ; as on the east, only blue shy teas risible, the termination of the Cordilleras being noticeable -g^ x ■■. ■>■.-■•#!*■ •| ■■-.■"V^^;- i$>w % — -^. js3i! v-- -A ---v-ft- , ; . * Wv^ . u > m =3 ,^ V Us: 7 ^-^- 1 ^ ■ 128 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. (2) Because they show that the Chilian Government had official knowledge of the fact, in consequence of surveys carried out by officers of their Navy. Captain Vidal Gormaz' book where the just-quoted phrases appear, contains a map in scale 1 : 80,000, and the Rio Puelo is therein shown to cross through the Cordillera. The map is inscribed in the following manner : " Piano del Rio Puelo, levantado por brden del Supremo Gobierno por la Comision exploradora de Llanquihue, bajo la direccion del Capitan de corbeta Francisco Vidal Gormaz, en 1*72" (plan of the river Puelo drawn by order of the Supreme Government by the Llanquihue surveying commission, under the direction of Lieut. Commander Don Francisco Vidal Gormaz in 1872). As an argument in favour of the Argentine contention, this map is con- clusive. The Chilian Government ordered the drawing up of a plan in which the Cordillera de los Andes is shown to be cut by a river ; the same Chilian Government entered into a Treaty some years later in which the Cordillera de los Andes is agreed upon as the Argentine-Chilian boundary ; therefore, the Chilian Government was aware that the agreed divisional line let pass through its gaps the watercourses that rise in Argentine territory. Senor Barros Arana recognised this fact before he was appointed Chilian Minister to the Argentine Republic, when he gave his approval to the map of Chile, drawn by Sefior Manuel .1. Olascoaga. In 1870, the Chilian Government sent the gunboat ' Chacabuco ' to cany- out an exploration of the western coast of Patagonia, and among the instructions given to Captain Enrique M. Simpson were the following — 1st. " The exploration will be extended as far as the coast, comprised between the 44th and 46th degree of latitude, and will be especially directed to the Aysen river, and afterwards to the other arms of the sea and rivers which might serrt as a icaterway through Patagonia." * It will be opportune here to call to mind that, so far back as 1SGG, the Minister of Chile, Senor Lastarria, had proposed to the Argentine Government that the boundary line between the two countries should be drawn through the eastern slope of the Andes, and that this proposition was, no doubt, based upon the knowledge, already possessed, of rivers which intersected the Cordillera, and which watered fertile valleys on th" eastern foot of the same : but such a Exploraciones hechas por la Corbeta Chacabuco, Amiario Hidrografico tie la Marina do Chile, vol. I,p, :;. PLATE las nauticQs kilometros / ■0 <0 IF IL&23® DEL RIO PUELO levnnUido do ordcn del Supivnio Gobierno por In Conusioa esploradorn do l.lanquihue. bn|o |,i Direction del Oapitan dc forbela FRANCISCO' YIDAL GORMU Escala boooo ... - X ■i LACO PUELO \ VIDAL GORMAZ, is? 2. igo de Llanquihue y rio Puelo, Santiago de Chile, 1S72). [Fare p. 128. Explorations by Vidal Gormaz and Simpson. 129 proposition was immediately rejected by the Argentine Government, which would not recognise or accept any other boundary than the- crest of the Cordillera. The ' Chacabueo ' anchored towards the end of February, in the Aysen Inlet, and Captain Simpson commenced the exploration with which he had been entrusted by the Chilian Government. In his Report,* he says : — " There has been explored an extent of fifty miles of rivers, and there has been revealed a fertile valley at the end of the Aysen, with great abundance of timber and cultivable land, penetrating across the Cordilleras to long. 72° 33' west of Greenwich, without reaching the end of the valley. " There has been revealed the possibility that there exists a passage by water across tin 1 Cordillera, further to the south of the Aysen, since, as far as has yet been seen, a remarkable depression occurs there, and there ceases to be a continuous chain." Being in possession of these particulars, the Chilian Government, which was desirous of obtaining the eastern valleys, determined to set on foot a fresh exploration, and the ' Chacabueo ' returned to the Aysen and " should circumstances permit," say the instructions, " Captain Simpson will prosecute the exploration of the Aysen eastwards, as far as may be possible, in order to investigate the rivers and lagoons which may be useful for the purposes of interoceanic communication. " He will make plans or sketches of the regions traversed, noting the circumstances relating to the ground, the vegetation and all other particulars which concern the establish- ment of a colony in those regions." On February 4, 1871, Captain Simpson commenced the exploration of Rio de los Ciervos (or river Huemules), hoping that it would intersect the Cordillera, as he Avas led to believe would be the case from the footmarks of the animals (deer), and that he could reach Eastern Patagonia, where they abound. The first exploration did not give the result that had been anticipated, and the explorer found himself in a country which sank precipitously from the Cordillera. He then visited the bottom of the estuary of Quitralco, in order to investigate a river which he discovered to the north-east containing rather deep waters, and which he thought might possibly be the real outlet of the Coluguape Lagoon in Eastern Patagonia (in the east of the Andes), but after going three miles up he found it to be an unnavigable stream. On the 20th of March, he attempted to ascend the river Aysen once more, * Exploraciones hechas por la Corbeta Chacabueo, Amiario Hidragrafico de la Marina de Chile, vol. 1, p. 19. S 130 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. and, seven clays later, he reached the point where he had arrived in his first voyage. Leaving behind him a large snow-capped mountain with three peaks, the explorer passed several difficult rapids, and on April 5 the party resolved to turn back. The following is the description that Captain Simpson gives of this region, and of this river, connected with which, according to him, is a very huge basin "beyond the Andes" (ultra Cordillera) (i.e. to the east of the Andes) : — P. 39. — "The rapids being very difficult to pass, and the men being without shoes, linen or water, I determined to go no further with the boats, and we set out for the trip on land instead. After walking two miles, through the dense forest, we reached on the margin of the river, a point from whence we had the great pleasure of seeing that, instead of turning southwards as we had surmised, the river completely traversed the chain — diagonally — to the north-east; we were able to see through the gorge, several miles further on, without tiring able to perceive anything but loio diminishing hills. We noticed that the river here had no current, hut was of considerable depth; we were also able to assure ourselves that there were no falls further up, as there was no trace of foam, whereas in the river Blanco, the previous year, the foam indicated the existence of falls fifteen miles away. We, therefore, had not the slightest doubt that we had already gained the last gorge of the Cordillera, and had not the lagoon been at such a distance all difficulties would have been removed. " At this gorge, we found that, by the river, we were eighty miles from Moraleda Channel, we having traversed no less than fifty-five miles of the Cordillera. " I had previously thought that the river was derived from the snows of the Cordillera, but in ascending it this time, I found no difference whatever in it from last year, in spite of the great amount of snow melted during the exceptionally hot summer ; although the three days of heavy rain experienced by us this time completely altered the position of the obstacle caused by the drift of trees. On our first voyage, we had seen on the shore an immense trunk, the root of which measured seven metres (twenty-three feet) in circumference, its trunk being three metres (9*8 feet) in diameter, and twenty-five metres (eighty-two feet) in length ; in going up this time, we found it in the same spot; but on returning it had disappeared. "It was evident thus, that the increase of the waters of this river, mainly arises from the rains and not merely from the melting of the snows, although the latter must help to swell the volume. This seems to point to a very considerable basin beyond the Cordillera (ultra Cordillera). My idea is, that the summit of the lower lands is found in the eastern plains, and that for this reason the waters derived from the snows or rain are compelled to turn westward, the great increase of waters taking place during those storms which occasionally visit Eastern Patagonia." In his Report on the result of the expedition, Captain Simpson says :— P. 47. — "The isthmus of Ofqui has been defined on the north, re-discovering the celebrated lagoon of San Rafael, and the Cordillera de los Andes has been crossed by water as far as its last gorge, thus proving that the river Aysen takes its rise in Eastern Patagonia, and .showing the facility of constructing a road or a railway to that territory." Explorations by Vidal Gonna s and Simpson. 131 On November 22 of the same year, preparations were made in the Port of Lagunas for a fresh expedition to the Rio Aysen in Patagonia, which in some old maps is described as the " Rio de los Desamparados," and in others as the " Rabudos." In his Report this zealous explorer says that, on December 19, having caused some persons to ascend the mountain, they told him that they were already at the end of the Cordillera. Having reached this point himself, he found that he was indeed at the foot of the eastern slope of the Cordillera. Ahead Avere only to be seen two detached hills at a short distance. The nearest was about three miles off, and was about 400 metres (1312 feet) high, with its upper part bare and streaked horizontally, the other being farther and lower, the rest of the land being composed of undulating hills covered with thick woods. He adds : — P. 58. — " However, the dense atmosphere limited our vision to a distance of less than ten miles. P. 59. — '•' We had arrived at the end of onr long toil and privations as ice had crossed the great chain of the Andes in lot. 45° S., an exploit which had never before been achieved, and this was especially remarkable, every step of the ground being new, without any previous data to guide us, as, where there are no inhabitants there are no traces nor traditions. When we undertook the expedition, we only knew that the Cordillera de los Andes had an end, and at that end we arrived." Three men whom Captain Simpson sent farther on, told him upon returning that — P. 59. — " Their march had been in part over the upper hills, and in part over the plains which occurred from time to time, bending a little to the south. From the extreme point, where tbey had arrived, they saw, looking backwards, the Cordillera stood entirely clear away, which proved that ice had reached the end of it. Moreover, they found traces of coal, and of this there was no doubt, as one of the party had previously worked for a long time in the Lota mines, and was very familiar with coal pits." From this place they commenced to return towards the inlet, and undertook fresh explorations, in the river Huemules. On February 7, 1872, they arrived at the snow-drift they had found in their previous expedition. P. 72. — " The cliff of it," he says, " which was some ten or twelve metres (39 "4 feet) high, resembled a honeycomb, being pierced by innumerable caves and fissures, through which - the water flowed, forming very small streams, which unite at the spot where we had left the boats. The glacier itself falls from a height of more than a thousand metres (3281 feet) from the south, and is probably the extremity of the great sheet which s 2 132 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. reaches the Gulf of Penas, occupying the intermediate valleys of the Cordillera. The ice is mixed with volcanic ashes, and is of a leaden colour, which is the cause of the tint of the waters of the river. " As already remarked, it was a very clear day, and having ascended the glacier a considerable height we could see many miles to the east one single detached mountain cone, ami beyond that was an unbroken horizon : there being no further doubt that the valley traversed the Cordillera completely, as before we had seen mountains at a distance of more than fifty miles. If any further proof 'were needed, the presence of so many huemules would suffice. From this height, ice could likewise see that the sheet of ice also descended eastward between some hills on the southern side, which perhaps constituted the source of some of the rivers which empty into the Atlantic* . . . . As to the other branch of the river, we found it impracticable for boats, as, owing to the season, there was very little water — a proof that it derives its waters from the rains and not from the snows." In a fourth journey, Captain Simpson inspected a river which flows to the north of the Aysen, and he ascended it till he reached some rapids. He called this river Cisnes, and he says that "it is about two-thirds the size of the Aysen," but, " like that river, it has many obstacles, and for this reason it is not navigable. The valley appears to continue to the east until it crosses " the range. In this fourth expedition, he once more attempted the exploration of a second branch of the river Huemules as far as its northern sources, but without any other result than to find that the gorge, where it flowed, advanced into the interior among snowy mountains. He concludes this portion of his Report with some general considerations, in which he supposes the existence of a secondary ridge to the west of this chain of mountains, which till that date was called the Cordillera de los Andes. P. 146. — "This secondary sierra, or ridge, constitutes," he says, "the real division of the waters ; and it is for tin's reason that rivers like the Aysen are found, which, rising in the other side, completely traverse the Andine range." The surveyors who will be sent by Her Britannic Majesty's Government to examine these regions will undoubtedly find that this "secondary sierra " does not exist; that the sources of the rivers Cisne, Aysen and Huemules or Ciervos lie in the Patagonian Pampas, and, at the same time, they will confirm the opinion of Captain Simpson, with regard to the total cut of the Cordillera by those rivers. * The, 1 iver Cisnes or Huemules rises in the Lake Elizalde, situated to the east of the breach uf the Cordillera, seen by Captain Simpson. Expeditions by the Officers of the Chilian Gunboat 'Afagat/anes.' 133 6. EXPEDITIONS BY THE OFFICERS OF THE CHILIAN GUNBOAT ' MAGALLANES.' In the Patagonian I 'lain, Captain Simpson penetrated from the Pacific to the east of the Cordillera de los Andes. Captain George Chaworth Musters,* during his journey in Patagonia accompanied by the Tehuelche Indians, pene- trated in the same Cordillera westwards to the height of the river Palena and, travelling along its most easterly affluents, crossed on the plain in the Pampas, east of the Cordillera, the interoceanic dividing line of the waters which * Musters' At Home with the Patagonians, London, 1873 : — P. 154. — " Our programme was to leave all the women, toldos, and other encumbrances in this spot, named " Weekel " or Chaykash — a regular station, and which Ilinchel's party had occupied a few weeks previously — and proceed ourselves into the interior in search of cattle. The following morning at daylight horses were caught and saddled, and after receiving the good wishes of the women, who adjured us to bring back plenty of fat beef, we started off just as the sun was rising behind the hills to the eastward. The air was most invigorating, and we trotted along for some distance up a slightly irregular and sandy slope, halting after an hour or two by the side of a deliriously clear brook, flowing east, where we smoked. We had previously passed guanaco and ostrich, but no notice was taken of them, the Indians having larger game in view. After passing this brook, the head water of the river near which we had left the toldos, we skirted a large basin-like plain of beautiful green pasture, and after galloping for some time entered the forest, travelling along a path which only permitted us to proceed in Indian file. The trees were in many places dead, not blackened by fire, but standing up like ghostly bleached and bare skeletons. It is a remarkable fact that all the forests on the eastern side are skirted by a belt of dead trees. At length, however, just as we came in sight of a curiously pointed rock which in the distance resembled the spire of a church, we entered the forest of live trees ; the undergrowth was composed of currant, bay, and other bushes, whilst here and there were beds of yellow violets, and the inevitable strawberry plants everywhere. After crossing a stream which, flowing from the north, afterwards took a westerly course, thus proving that we had passed the watershed, we proceeded, under cover of a huge rock, to reconnoitre the hunting- ground. t The scenery was beautiful : a valley about a mile wide stretched directly under us ; on the southern verge a silver line marked the easterly river, and another on the northern the one debouching in the Pacific ; whilst, above, on both sides, rose high mountains covered with vegetation and almost impenetrable forests. On the western side of the valley a solitary bull was leisurely taking his breakfast, and above our look-out rock a huge condor lazily flapped his wings. These were the only specimens of animal life in view. Pursuing our way in perfect silence, as from the first entrance into the forest speaking had been prohibited, we followed the leader along the narrow cattle-path, passing here and there the remains of a dead bull, or cow that had met their fate by the Indian's lazo, and at length descended to the plain. It was about midday, and the day was warm, so we halted, changed horses, looked to our girths, got lazos ready for use, and then started on. As we were proceeding we observed two or three animals amongst the woods on the opposite side, but knowing that it would be useless to follow, pursued our course up the valley. Having crossed the western stream, we at once entered a thicket where the path was scarcely distinguishable from the cover, but our leader never faltered, and led the way through open glades alternating with thick woods, on every side of which were cattle marks, many being holes stamped out by the bulls, or wallowing places. The glades soon terminated in forests, which seemed to stretch unbroken on either side. We had expected before reaching this 'point to have found cattle in considerable numbers, but the warmth of the day had probably driven them into the thickets to seek shelter. We now commenced to ascend over a dangerous path, encumbered here and there with loose boulders and entangled in dense thickets, whilst we could hear and catch occasional glimpses of the river foaming down a ravine on our left, and presently arrived at the top of a ridge where the forests became more uniformly dense, and we could with great difficulty pursue our way. It was a mystery to me how 134 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. descend to the Atlantic and to the Pacific, which was confirmed in 1888 during a visit to the spot by the present Argentine Expert, who reported on the fact to his Government. Two years before the Treaty of July 23, 1881, was signed, there were published in Santiago de Chile, vol. 5 (1879) and vol. 6 (1880) of the Annario Hidrografico de Chile, containing the account of various expeditions carried out by officers of the Chilian gunboat ' Magallanes ' in the Andine regions from parallel 52° to that of 50° 8. lat. One of these expeditions had for its purpose the carrying out of the explo- ration of the eastern valleys of the Andes, " coasting the Andes until they reached the banks of the Rio Santa Cruz." * Extracts from the journal of the members of the expedition (November 1877) show what was their opinion respecting the eastern extremity of the Cordillera.t In no case do they say that they succeeded in penetrating it, having made, on the contrary, their journey outside of it. It may, in passing, be said that, notwithstanding the opinion of the members of this expedition, the Chilian Expert pretends that a large part of the regions where they travelled is not only comprised within the Cordillera, but situated in its western slope. Orkeke, who acted as guide, knew where we were, as on one occasion the slightly marked paths diverged in different directions, and on another we literally found ourselves among fallen trees in a forest so dense that the light of day scarcely penetrated its shades. Our leader, however, never hesitated, Imt led us onwards in all confidence. Whilst brushing along, if I may be allowed the term, trying to keep the leader in sight, I heard something tapping on a tree, and looking up, saw close above me a most beautifully marked red-crested woodpecker. We at length commenced to descend, and after passing many channels of rivulets issuing from springs, where a slip of the horse's foot on the wet and mossy stones would have occasioned something worse than broken bones, as they were situated on the edge of a deep ravine, finally emerged from the woods and found ourselves on a hill of some 300 feet in heisrht, whence we looked down on a broad plain in the form of a triangle, bounded by the liver flowing through the ravine on the north side, and on the southern by another coming from the south, which two streams united in one large river at the western apex, at a distance of about perhaps a league. Above and around, on all sides excepting to the west and the ravines through which the river flowed, rose the unbroken wall of the lofty mountains of the Cordillera, many of their peaks snow-clad." * From the exploration of Skyring Water it was ascertained that on the west "mountain ranges perpetually clad with snow" bounded it, and that the said Cordillera is intercepted in its southern part by two extensive breaks which perhaps give passage to channels, or are the commencement of creeks which lead up to glaciers. \ In the instruction of the Chilian Government for the exploration of Skyring Water it was ordered that: — "In Skyring Water and in the port which the commander of the ' Magallanes' may deem most safo and adequate, ho will laud a party consisting of Lieutenant Juan Tomas Uogers, Don Enrique Ibar, naturalist, and a midshipman, in order that they, according to circumstances, the elements the colony may offer, and the various provisions the nature of the soil may supply, may carry out the exploration of the rimtmi mil, i/s of the Andes, a fixed time being agreed upon for their return to the ship; but giving them the fullest possible liberty so that the party may travel northwards, roasting the Andes until they reach the banks of the Rio Santa Cruz, determine the position of the lakes, botanise, and astronomically fix the mobt important points of those regions." (Annario Hidrografico de Chile, vol. 5. p. oij, Santiago, 1879.) Expeditions by the Officers of the Chilian Gunboat 'Magallanes! 135 Lieutenant Rogers, in the narrative of his Exploration of the Patagonian Pampa, when describing the ground in the neighbourhood of Laguna Blanca (about 52° 30' S.) says * :— "A chain of hills, some eighty metres (262 feet) high, follows along its course at a * The Commander of the Expedition, Captaiu Latorre, says (ibid., p. 38) : " November 7, 8, 9. — During these three days, which were the most beautiful we had had, the officers were engaged in making the necessary preparations ; some for the continuation of the westward measurement, and the others for their exploration of the Patagonian Pampa. " The serene and perfectly clear atmosphere enabled us to perceive all that can be seen of the expanse known as Skyring Water, and the region improperly called King William's Land, which is nothing but an extensive gult — a continuation of the said Skyring Water. It is bounded on the west by mountain ranges perpetually clad with snow, a fact which proved that their height is not less than from 1069 to 1222 metres, the height of the everlasting snow-line in those latitudes according to the learned Captain Parker King. (Darwin's Naturalist's Voyage round the World, p. 244, 1870 edition.) " The said Cordillera is intercepted in its southern part by two extensive breaks, which, perhaps, give passage to channels, or originate creeks which terminate in glaciers. The ranges in this region are notable for the countless peaks, singularly detached, in which they culminate, and innumerable gorges, perhaps the beds of other ghiciers, giving the Cordillera a magnificent aspect, as they look like immense frozen rivers descending through very wide channels half-way down the mountain slopes. " The heights round Skyring Water on the north and south present gentle slopes, rising gradually to a height of from 250 to 300 metres. From amongst these heights certain peaks rise offering objective points to the navigator ; predominating them, and on the north coast, is Mount Campana, it being considered to be like a bell, though to our mind, it resembles a pyramid, like one of the beacons which mark notable points in the Magellan Strait. In clear weather the mountain is visible directly one enters the Fitz Roy Channel through Otway Water, and in almost the whole extent of Skyring Water." Lieutenant Rogers, an officer of the expedition, says (ibid., p. 04) : — " A chain of hills, some eighty metres high, follows along its course at a distance of about two miles. The slopes are similar to each other. The country to the west is low, the Andes being noticeable about twenty-five miles away. P. 66. — " After walking a few miles, we found that the hills changed to table-lands, all of one absolute height, and similar to those described by Captain Fitz Roy in the region of the Santa Cruz river, and apparently consisting of the remaining portions of a table-land, of which the intervening valleys are areas that have been gradually worn away. At times some erratic, granitic rocks of irregular size are seen, whilst small lakes, with beds of pebble and small stone, are to be found in the winter. P. 67. — " We then tried to take some azimuths on the peaks of the Cordillera, but we could not distinguish any summit. The Andes were not far distant from us, and towards the west, following the river, we clearly perceived a break in the Cordillera, a sort of opening, which Zamora called the channel, which is in the part where Obstruction Sound is shown on the English map. P. 72. — " The passage across the river Gallegcs was effected with the greatest facility, thanks to the great care taken in arranging the loads, as, in fording it, the water reached half-way up the horses. We camped on the north, or left, bank, in the midst of the small trees we had so frequently observed and coveted from the south coast. These trees give their name to this ford of the river, it being called the Paso de los Robles (Oak-tree Passage). "The table-lands on the north side of the liver are higher than those on the opposite bank, as we have said. We ascended the one at the rear of the encampment, from whence we made some observations. We had a beautiful view from its summit ; beneath us flowed the river Gallegos, with its winding west-to-east course ; on the north and south of it were the vast pampas, with their blackish hills and troops of guanacos, alon" the whole extent of the horizon. On the west rose the snow-clad Andes " On Tuesday, the 27th, despite our ardent wishes to continue our march, we were only able to start at midday, owing to the horses, fleeing from the insects, having withdrawn a good distance from the margin of the river. We made towards the W.N.W., finding the formation of the ground to be identical with that of the southern district of the Gallegos ; it was almost entirely bare of vegetation, save for the constant grass and 136 Divergences in the Cordillera dc los sondes. distance of about two miles. The slopes are similar to eacli other. The country to the west is low, the Andes being noticeable about twenty-five miles away " (to the west). the abundance of flowers, many very beautiful, though of very little variety, but which our companion Ibar eagerly collected. "The table-lands or hills are, as already observed, slightly higher, and contain many small lagoons fed by streamlets, causing the horses considerable trouble. Scarlet flamingoes, various kinds of duck, and the handsome canquen, dwell, however, in all of them. "We also saw a number of quelfehues (Yanellus cayennensis), and a kind of pullet, of long beak, called madrugadoras by the peasants. " The day was very clear, which enabled us to keep the Andean chain in view, but we were unable to distinguish any of its summits, which was very annoying, as that was the only way in which we could continue our work in a connected way, by comparison with what was already known. P. 7-4. — " After breakfast, we decided to ascend the most western cone, which is also the highest. We readied its base on horseback, making the ascent on foot on its N.N.E. side. The cone, and the one on the east, consist of volcanic lavas. They were named Pbilippi, Domeyko, and the eastern one Gay, in memory of those three savants who so greatly contributed to the progress of science in Chile. " The cones present an imposing appearance, resembling the ruins of a gigantic fortress ; at their base a great number of columnar-shaped rocks, all composed of lavas, are found. " The ascent of the Philippi was not difficult. In its most westerly, and highest peak, is a crater two or three metres in diameter, and slightly more than one in depth, surrounded by smooth stones all of the same size, and laid so hermetically, that they look as though they had been arranged by the hand of man. Ibar took specimens of these lavas. We set fire to some withered shrubs we found at the top, which gave the mountain the appearance of an active volcano. "From the summit of Mount Philippi, a vast horizon presented itself; the pampa and its numerous small lagoons were on the south-east and south ; on the west and north were lofty broken hills, with deep gorges and sides covered with vegetation in many parts, the snow-covered Andes rising in the distance. " The Philippi cone is situated, approximately, in lat. 51° 38' S. and long. 71° 40' W. The Domeyko. two miles to the east of it, and the Gay ten or twelve miles E \ S. The Philippi only rises sixty metres above the level of the pampas. The slopes of the hill are covered with various flowers, and in the air numerous condors fly about in circles. P. 75. — "The nature of the ground changed notably as we advanced (westward), and the vegetation increased as we approached the plains of Diana; but there are many swamps, which, being dangerous for horses, it is necessary to go round them. P. 76. — " We crossed various rivulets, two of them of some volume ; one might be called a river; Green- wood called it Turbio (muddy) owing to the ordinary state of its waters. This river, like the Gallegos, abounds in fish, and is the principal affluent of the latter river. " When travelling along this route, Greenwood assured us that those rivulets, in previous years, were crossed on foot, the water not being above the knee; whereas when traversed to-day the water reached half-way up a horse's body. "Along the path, we found a quantity of guanaco skeletons, sometimes thirty all together, probably killed by the severity of the winter. "The hills succeed one another rapidly, covered with woods, which become denser as the coast is approached, where the trees are taller. We noticed oak trees no less than fifteen metres high. "The Andean Cordillera seems to continue its course along the peninsulas left by the various coves, which cut through it, to continue on islands and on the continent itself further south. A branch trends towards the east, about ten miles north of our encampment, terminating in the pampas, in long. 71' 10' ; it retains patches of snow on its upper part up to the end of November. P. 79. — "The ground becomes much better for marching, although the hills are more broken in parts, leaving extensive valleys; but there is not even a bush in sight, the whole region seeming like an utterly sterile desert. On (he west a snow-covered Cordillera could In' seen, a part of the Andes, known to the peasants by the name < lordillera dc los Baguales, owing to the presence on its slopes of a great number of wild horses, wheie travellers and natives comic in search of them. Zamora assured us that, on one occasion, he had seen more than a thousand baguales (wild horses). I\ si'. ."The Andes in this part, called Cordillera de los Baguales by the peasants, as already stated, is Expeditions by the Officers of the Chilian Gunboat 'Magallanes' 137 Before leaving the Rio Gallegos, " After walking a few miles we found that the hills, changed to table-lands, all of one absolute height and similar to those described by Captain Fitz Hoy in the region of the Santa Cruz river, and apparently consisting of the remaining portions of a table-land, of which the intervening valleys are areas that have been gradually worn away. At times some erratic granite rocks of regular size are seen, whilst small lakes, with beds of pebble and small stone, are to be found in the winter." These table-lands (mesetas) which form the level ground of Patagonia, and the beds of the valleys, are now erroneously considered by the Chilian Expert as forming the principal chain (encadenamiento) of the Cordillera de los Andes which divides the waters. Sefior Rogers, in his journey to the north, always had the Cordillera de los Andes on the west. On his way he found no mountain before seeing the Cor- dillera de los Baguales.* " The Morro Philippi " which he ascended, the highest called Bagnal by the Patagonians. The former give it that name owing to the wild horses which abound in the district; and the latter deriving it from an Indian called Bagual, to whom they attribute the introduction of the horses into this district, which have so abundantly propagated in it. " The Cordillera de los Baguales, which is only a part or section of the Andes, is extremely fantastic in its form and in its snow-capped summits. It is cut in its southern pari, leaving a rugged mountain with three notable peaks seen in the distance, called Payne by the peasants, owing to its resemblance to another of that name in the Argentine Kepublic. " Towards the north, various branches are seen, which strike off from the Cordillera and trend towards the east, diminishing in height ; they are very broken, and we suppose that they are the limit ranges mentioned by Fitz Boy in his voyage on the Bio Santa Cruz. P. 84. — "We ascended imperceptibly, and at 11 a.m. we reached the top of a chain of hills some 900 metres in height, seeing, further to the north, another similar chain; but between them lay a deep valley, through which the majestic Bio Santa Cruz, in a winding course, flows west to east. We then found ourselves in meridian 71° 40', and consequently, within the point reached by Captain Fitz Roy when he explored this river in April 1834. On the west we perceived a great lake, from which, apparently, the river flowed, and in the background, the snow-covered Cordillera, with its varied and beautiful peahs, at a distance not easily determined. " When, later on, we moved towards the lake, the Cordilleran landscape reminded us of a view of the Andean Cordillera taken from the Misterio Plains, which is contained in vol. 2 of the Voyages of the ' Adventure ' and the ' Beagle,' p. 352, and we could appreciate the difficulties which that expedition must have encountered, and which prevented them climbing those lofty mountains and attaining the object they had in view. " The descent of this Cordillera was difficult, owing to its abrupt slope and to its barrenness, as it only presented here and there some patches of the black bushes of which we have spoken. As soon as we had descended this high mountain, we lost sight of lake and river. P. 88. — " After night had fallen, we heard two noises, similar to those produced by a volcano. Zamora told us that on previous occasions he had heard the same sounds. They probably proceed from the Chalten volcano on the shores of Lake Viedma, or, perhaps, from the glaciers which abound in the Andes, whose falling masses and avalanches perfectly resemble the noises we had heard." * " The Cordillera de los Baguales in the map of Lieutenant Rogers is represented as running north and south, and comprising the mountains which rise in front of the main chain of the Cordillera de los Andes." 138 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. of the volcanic liills of the Rio Gallegos, rises only sixty metres (197 feet) above the plain, and does not extend to the plateau (mesetas) which may properly be considered as the Patagonian plain. Like some Chilian writers, Senor Rogers calls the Cordillera the elevations more or less important which rise above the general relief of the ground, but when reference is made to the Cordillera de los Andes, he uses that term, or the Andes simply, as also do those writers. The Chilian naturalist, Senor [bar Sierra, who accompanied Senor Rogers in his expedition, described the landscape which he had before him to the west of the Rio Gallegos, in the immediate neighbourhood of the channels which the Argentine Expert maintains, together with Ladrillero, Skyring, Kirke, Ibar, Bertrand, and Otto Nordenskjold, that completely intersect the Cordillera, against the simple assertion of Senor Barros Arana, as Chilian Expert, who maintains the contrary, without giving the grounds for his belief.* P. 27. — "We were slightly north of Disappointment Bay," says Senor Ibar, "near Obstruction Sound. We left the Plains of Diana to the south. Facing us was the sea, a wide channel penetrating northwards, the end of which we could see ; two little islands stood out from its blue surface, bare of arborescent vegetation. On the west we saw high peaks, clad with eternal snows, and at their base the sea which penetrated the creeks. from that point one could appreciate the way in which the Andine chain, separated from the Continent, was scattered capriciously among the labyrinth of islands which formed a veritable conglomeration cut through and subdivided by the network of channels of Western Patagonia." Further on, Senor Ibar, agreeing with Rogers, places the Andes in the great snoioy chain. He says : — P. 32. — " The country we traversed was slightly undulating, but the ascent of the previous day, up the high basaltic table-lands, placed us a great height above the sea. We eventually reached the summit of the last hill, and saw, spread out before us, the river Santa Cruz enclosed in its valley, the magnificent lake from which it rises towards the west, and the Andes which form a crown of lofty peaks for it. We were at an altitude of smile 10G0 metres (3478 feet). We commenced the descent and soon lost sight of the lake. We pursued our journey along a partly hilly ground covered with black bushes, the papilionaceous plants already referred to, and some other plants. " When one is in the valley, Lake Santa Cruz is quite out of sight ; all that is risible in its direction being the snoio-cap/>nl j>eaks of the Andes and the cone." * Auuario llydrognifico de la Marina do Chili-, vol. .">, 1879, Appendix. Expeditions by the Officers of the Chilian Gunboat 'Magallanes! 139 In the beginning- of 1879 Sefior Rogers accomplished a more detailed exploration of the same places, confirming his former impressions' with a more precise description.* * Ibid., vol. 6, 1880. P. 107. — "Having traversed the Cordillera (Latorre),(l) we crossed a rivulet which, according to Zamora, is one of the affluents of the river Coile ; it had a slight northerly direction, suggesting such a connection. This being passed, a barren pampa was entered upon, in which even dog-grass was scarce, and what there was of it was very poor ; the ground being full of stones made it very unpleasant for the horses. " During the march, the Cagual Mountains, or the Baguales Cordillera, rose to view on the north-west whenever the horizon permitted it, and frequent squalls greatly troubled us. Numerous troops of guanacos and a few ostriches showed themselves from time to time. " The panipa here consists of a succession of table-lands of vast extent, broken by gorges, which are more frequent here than in the eastern region. P. 117. — " We greatly felt the want of a boat on the Santa Cruz, as without one it is quite impossible to properly survey the lake, and ascertain its exact dimensions. To have tried to use a raft would have been very dangerous, owing to the terrible winds which strike the lake as they descend through the Andean gorges. P. 118. — " February 4. — The day dawned clear and calm. Before penetrating into the Andes, a neighbouring hill was climbed, so as to command a view of the adjacent country, and according to two barometric observa- tions, a relative altitude of 1028 metres was obtained. From the upper part of the hill we found the follow- ing magnetic azimuths : — Castle Hill N. 30° W. Malogro Camp N. 55° E. " From the part of the hill facing the camp, at an altitude of 024 metres, we could discern the narrow Lake Misterio, stretching in a tortuous way for some four miles east to west, continuing afterwards S.S.E. We observed some pieces of ice in this lake, and were curious as to whence they proceeded ; we then thought we perceived a glacier at the base of the opening, which stretched towards the S.S.E. A regular west breeze was blowing, the gi eater part of the sky being clear. After reaching the top, we decided to keep on ascending towards a cone which was visible more to the west. The road being easy, we climbed the height, going as far as possible on horseback, and afterwards walking, until we attained the above-mentioned altitude of 1028 metres, more than 2 - 5 miles from the preceding point. " We were very glad we had persevered in our ascent, as we were enabled to see some pieces of ice emerge from another opening, which ran towards the south-west, from whence the wind seemed to come. On the south of this opening were two snow-clad peaks — one of them was, pei haps, the Stokes. " We had thought that Lake Misterio was none other than Lake Santa Cruz itself, which makes a great bend between hills of 1220 to 1520 metres height, and at the base of which a glacier is indubitably found. Was this so, or were there two distinct lakes ? A problem which we had to solve. " Our reason for climbing the height was to command a view of the country, so as to get a better idea of its configuration, and then proceed for some days aloug the valley of the Bio Zamora ; but in consequence of what we saw from the summit, we changed our mind ; to go along that valley would be useless, our purpose would be better accomplished by skirting Lake Misterio on the north until seeiDg the glacier or its eastern extremity. From the summit the openings seemed to have a tendency to join the one which forms the west part of the Santa Cruz, which I had followed on the first day of this month ; this made us fear that our advance northward would be impossible. "On February 1, we thought we had reached the place where the explorer Moreno says he planted his flag ; but, in that case, it surprised us that he makes no mention of the two western entrances of the lake ; which make the Santa Cruz much longer than what was thought. " I suppose that the river which serves us as an outlet to Lake Viedma and which discharges into the 1 Santa Cruz, runs through the north opening, which seems to be rather deep. " The waters of Lake Misterio were of a dirty whitish colour, like those of the Santa Cruz ; prominent (1) The general table-land to the north of river Gallegos, to which the Chilians have given that name. T 2 140 Divergences in the Cordillera de I as Andes. The region in which the Chilian Expert now puts his principal chain (en- cadenamiento) of the Cordillera de los Amies, Sefior Rogers calls the Pampa. The above them were the very crystalline waters of an extensive lagoon, separated from Lake Misterio by a narrow strip of land. " From the most culminating part of the height on which we were, from whence we saw Mount Cagual, we found the following azimuths: — Temblor Camp N. 20° E. Malogro Camp K 52° E. Mount Cagual S. 56° E. Snow-capped cone (probably the Stokes) . . S. .V W. and S. 15 c W. P. 120. — "February 5. — Leaving the greater part of our baggage in the camp, with two men to look after it, we set out to skirt the north side of Lake Misterio. We worked very hard all day ; we had to contend with a very thickly wooded mountain, with ravines and swamps, which made our advance slow, difficult, and even dangerous. We skirted the arm of the lake which runs, approximately, east to west, for more than 5*5 miles, with a width of close on two miles. It then turns slightly north through an opening in the Andes, through which numerous pieces of ice of various sizes and of fantastic shapes were seen to emerge. Another part of the lake turns towards the south for more than 7*5 miles, to terminate at the very base of the Cordillera. From the height on which we were yesterday we saw a kind of glacier at its base; but no pieces of ice emerged from that creek; those which could be seen proceeded from the opening towards the west. " After marching for more than five hours, we perceived a beautiful glacier at the bottom of the valley, from which splendid icebergs became detached, many being of great size. " After eight hours' heavy marching we camped in a small creek of the lake in the midst of a superb forest of oak-trees. The remains of a fire were visible along the whole track traversed by us during the day, but it appeared to be a very old one ; as, by the side of the burnt trunks, there were new trees of some years' growth. When we camped we were very tired and rather cut about, owing to having had to force a passage through the forest. We were cheered, however, by having seen the object of our journey, as, from the appearance of the mountains, the lake either continued towards the north, or else it needed but very little to join with the Santa Cruz. Who knows but that this same glacier is not the one which supplies Lake Santa ( 'ruz with the pieces of floating ice, even though we did not see any in that lake this year ? " The glacier, which we called Francisco Yidal, was, as seen by us, some 1*5 miles wide, and increased in height, apparently lengthening out towards the west, being probably the same as the one which enters Peel Inlet. There are very lofty snow-clad mountains (perhaps from 1800 to 2100 metres) on both sides of the glacier. I think the one on the south is Fitz hoy's Mount Stokes ; we gave the name of ' Rogers ' to the mountains on the north. " The forests covering the ground traversed by us to-day consist of Magellan oaks, hardwood, shrubs and many fuchsias ; hucmules, some foxes, the woodpecker, a species of parrot, and some colibi are found in the district. " During the night we could hear from our camp the reverberations of the harsh sounds of the pieces of ice which broke off the neighbouring glaciers, the noise produced thereby resembling thunder. 1'. 121. — "After walking nearly west for two hours, we came to the shores of the lake, in front of the Francisco Vidal Glacier, from which we were only separated by Lake Santa Cruz, which is only two miles wide at that point. It then runs N. 30° W. for over eight miles. The glacier goes towards the south-west between snow-clad mountains, but we could nut see on the right, owing to its being covered with clouds; only perceiving, momentarily and at intervals, some summits. 1'. 124. " At 11 a.m. we started off with the best horses and part of the men. We skirted the broad plain which borders this part of the river Santa ('ruz and which is rather swampy, but affords beautiful pastures for all kind of cattle. Nevertheless, it must be very bad in winter, the forest also being very dense. We crossed a rivulet which discharges into the lake, and flows over a stony bed, having its origin in a branch of the Cordillera s e 900 metres high, which has an easterly direction. "(»n the hanks of a rivulet and at, a short distance, we found a large perch, which caused us to think that such fish must abound in its waters. It appeared to us that, this perch was similar to what we had caught in the Truchas basin, in the vicinity of the Malogro camp on the margin of the Santa Cruz. "From ill'' rivulet the Andes presented a magnificent spectacle, with its two openings, that of the Expeditions by the Officers of the Chilian Gunboat 'Ma gat 'lanes.' 141 Tribunal will note the difference which exists between actual observation of the ground by Sefior Rogers, and the affirmation of Senor Barros Arana as Expert, Francisco Vidal Glacier, and the other situated about fifteen miles south of the latter. The panorama would have been complete, had it not been for the clouds hiding the principal peaks of the Cordillera. The glacier was perfectly blue — a proof, according to Darwin, of its advanced age. Encina Cove did not seem to terminate in a glacier, as we had previously supposed, but in a great deposit of snow. P. 125. — " February 14. — The morning dawned cloudy and calm. We advanced towards Carlos Hill, situated near Lake Santa Cruz, which was more than five miles away ; to all appearances it seemed that the ascent would not be very difficult ; but, in attempting it, we found it very heavy. The hill consists almost entirely of rock, dotted with patches of herb and light briar on its eastern side. The opposite side is entirely bare of vegetation. " Once on the top of Carlos Hill, the sky was fairly clear, which enabled us to contemplate a beautiful view of the Andes. At our feet was the majestic Lake Santa Cruz with its two coves penetrating precipices which were covered with trees in the lower and bare on the upper parts. The Tumpanos Passage or channel (of Moreno) and the Encina Cove remained in sight. " The lofty Andes, of various and fantastic forms, visible from Mount Payne on the south as far as N. 69° W., at which point they were lost to sight. The imposing Mount Stokes was covered with snow, scarcely any of its parts being visible. The north creek of Lake Santa Cruz, according to appearances, con- tinued some five or sis miles to the N. 79° W., afterwards taking a somewhat northerly direction. " On the top of the slopes which terminate at the margin of the lake, a portion of the glacier was seen from which some icebergs descended, which, from there, moved towards the broad part of the lake, where they joined others. " At the end of Encina Cove, another glacier was also seen ; but we saw no icebergs emerge from it, which led us to suppose that the glacier does not descend as far as the waters of the lake. On the southern part of the hill, and towards the east, some sort of a pampa, abounding in swarnps, was seen. The hills trending towards the east, started from the end of Encina Cove and the western hills slightly more to the south ; but we could not distinguish their termination. " We found it rather cold on the summit of the hill, with a fresh westerly breeze, it being observable that at the foot of the hill it was quite calm, and that the waters of the lake were perfectly smooth. " The river which connected Lake Viednia with the Santa Cruz, called Leona, by Moreno, the Argentine explorer, could not be distinguished, from which it may be supposed that it falls near the glacier, which would indubitably assist in transporting the icebergs which descend along this creek. " From the upper part of the Carlos Hill, we took the following magnetic azimuths : — Source of the river Santa Cruz Castle Hill The Northern Creek (glacier) Fracaso Creek Encina Creek (glacier) Mount Payne N. 55° E. N. 57° W. N. 79° W. S. 75° W. S. I.". W. S. 3°E. " The relative height of Mount Carlos above the level of the waters of Lake Santa Cruz is from 905 to 910 metres, or say an altitude of from nearly 1035 metres. In the direction of the Fracaso opening and in the same Cordillera, we saw, at intervals, a lofty conic-shaped peak, which exceeded the others and even Mount Stokes in height; but, owing to the heavy clouds which covered it, we were unable to fix its azimuth. P. 132. — "At 3 p.m. we camped on the banks of a river known by the name of Vizcachas, owing to its rising in one of the hills in which these small animals (a kind of hare) abound. " Shortly before reaching the point we had chosen for camping, we saw from the summit of one of the hills, the rugged Mount Cagual, which was near us on the west. A little to the south and slightly further away, was the beautiful Mount Payne ; and still further south and in the distance we discovered other snow- clad mountains. "The Las Vizcachas river or rivulet flows towards the Cordillera, and, I am assured, it is neither an 142 Divergences in the Cordillera de las Andes. which is entirely lacking in foundation. Senor Rogers uniformly gives the name of '• Andes " or " the Cordillera " solely to the snowy chain which is really the range ;i. luent of tho Coile nor of the Gallegos, but joins two others to form a larger one which runs westwards until it discharges into a rather large lagoon near Pape " Close to the camp, and some fifteen or twenty metres above the level of the river Las Vizcachas, fossils were found in great abundance, consisting of Ostrca maxima which, as we have already said, is found in many other localities. " The wind veered round to the north, blowing in very heavy gusts, and imperilled our tents, and was generally accompanied with a little rain or snow. After nightfall, we saw a kind of lightning on the west; Imt we did not know whether to attribute it to a tempest in that part of the Cordillera or to some other cause. The flashes succeeded each other at lengthy intervals. P. 133. — " February 28. — A beautiful day dawned; the horses were brought, the camp struck, the party was sent on in advance, whilst the writer and Senor Donoso took the meridian altitude of the sun, which gave us lat. 50" 51' 21". " We then journeyed towards what they call the Entrada a los Baguales, that is to sav, the "pass through which one enters the region where the wild horses graze. The direction followed was approxi- mately W.8.W., crossing many hills, from whose tops the broad valley of the Coile was seen. " On the west was Mount Cagual, a hill of no great altitude, devoid of snow, which lies on the east of the Andes and separated from them. Then came the snow-clad Payne, of imposing appearance, and more to the west a chain of mountains also snow-clad. " The river Vizcachas, which we crossed, makes a curious bend towards the east, more to the south of the camp, to subsequently flow to the west, where it discharges into a great lagoon, as we verified. " The country traversed to-day contains some valleys with pasture, but the hills were very poor. " We observed immense herds of tjuanacos. On our left we passed various lagoons ; one of them was salt, but of slight importance. "At 4.30 p.m. we camped on the banks of a small creek, having Mount Cagual on the north, 25° W. The stream flows through an extensive and grassy dale, through which also runs a river which joins the Vizcachas. This is the compulsory halting ground of the Patagonian Indians when they come in search of Baguales horses. " The district seemed a very good one to us ; but on one perfectly calm day we were attacked by a great number of sand-flies, which made us feverish, and would not even permit us to eat. " Shortly before reaching the camp two lagoons were seen, one rather large; the peasants assured us that west of Payne there were also some large lagoons, one of them a salt one. r. 134. — " March 2. — At 10 a.m. we commenced our march towards the interior (the west). We then crossed a rivulet which seemed to proceed from the Cagual Hills, and, according to reports, joined the Vizcachas. Further south we climbed some low hills, which were everywhere full of holes bored by cururos, rendering ( ir progress difficult. We then traversed a sort of ravine. On the north lay the Bagual and other mountains, which, separated from the former by deep gorges, had a west direction. The path became obstructed by dense forest in measure as we advanced towards the west; the upper parts of the hills were barren. On the south lay a low hill, which commenced on the western side of tho rivulet where we were camping, and continued westward, having a valley on the north which, but for slight curves, runs east to west for some fifteen miles. The breadth of this valley varies between two and five miles, and it is the place where hunters ami Indians go to catch the baguales. " In the course of our march we found a lot of skeletons of wild horses scattered all over the region; they were, perhaps, the remains of those animals which had been caught, but which the Indians or hunters had been unable to break in. 1'. L35. — " Our peasant, Zamoia, told us that when he discovered the baguales the valley to which we have 1. foind was literally covered with them, and "looked like a moving mass.*' Upon this occasion we did not .1 single one, so great bail been the quantity captured; we found fresh marks and tracks, which proved their existence. Lately the Cacique Papon, with his Indians, caught some 1 01 1 bagual horses. The remainder retired to the higher parts of the Cordillera, ami more to the south. "We continued along the valley, crossing various streamlets, or rather water-courses, one of which we Expeditions by the Officers of the Chilian Gunboat 'Magallanesi 143 to which the name belongs. Between February 22 and March 22, Seiior Rogers explored the region comprised between the rivers Coile and Vrzcachas. He noticed flowed underground for a considerable distance, having its origin in the gorges formed by the hills on the north side, about which we have already spoken. " At 3.30 p.m. we camped in the western extremity of the vallej', pitching the tents in a picturesque spot between some leafy oak trees ; we were forced to dig for water for ourselves and our horses, but did not experience much difficulty, as the spring was close to the surface. The pasture here was magnificent, as was the case in the greater part of the valley, making tbe neighbourhood a very appropriate locality for the raising of horned cattle. There are also a few small lagoons, with rather swampy edges, in which a variety of ducks and beautiful swans abound. " On the west were mountains already forming part of the Andes. Having crossed a rivulet, which is the third which connects with the Vizcachas, and the one in the Mosquito Valley, there was a deep gorge on this side, a circumstance taken advantage of by Zamora and others, years ago, for the erection of a strong enclosure into which the baguales were driven, and, once inside, they were easily caught ; but now, they know the trap, and it is almost impossible to get them to enter. Huemules abound in the forest, and can be caught by balls or by dogs. " Before camping, we had a few showers ; directly we had pitched the tents, repeated peals of thunder were heard, accompanied by furious squalls of wind, which kept on all through the evening and night ; but owing to the sheltered position chosen for the camp, we were not inconvenienced. P. 136. — "March 5. — Sky clear, weather calm ; but, as the day advanced, a regular wind, accompanied by showers of rain, set in. Nevertheless, so as to lose no time, the ascent was decided upon ; we made towards the mountain which stood N.N.E. desiring to command a view of the country and select an appropriate site for the ascent of Mount Payne. " We went forward on horseback in spite of the road being heavy and difficult owing to the thick forest, but the greatest trouble was caused by the fallen branches, which impeded the advance of the horses. Clearings, in the form of small squares, occurred at intervals, in which, as well as in the forest, forage abounded. During the march, we found abundant traces of the existence of a number of baguales horses. " After several halts we reached the unwooded part, which we skirted slowly so as to get up more easily. The summit terminated in sharp-pointed rocks, impossible to climb; on one side was a deep ravine, on the escarpments of which variegated streaks were visible, but it was quite impossible to get to them without personal danger. " It was a very squally day, and we were unable to see the snow-clad summits of the Andes except in a very indistinct way. We noticed a labyrinth of ravines formed by small mountains between the larger ones : they contained lagoons. Mount Payne lay on the S. 25° W. some ten miles away ; there was water on the south-east of it which the peasant Zamora assured us was a river flowing west, and that there was a lake beyond Payne. It was impossible to see the lagoon into which the river Donoso discharges. " The Baguales Valley had the form of an ellipse, its greater diameter being from east to west more than fifteen miles. Its smaller diameter was estimated at five miles. P. 137. — " March 6. — The day opened badly, with squalls of rain ; we, nevertheless, commenced our pre- parations for the journey, with the certainty that it would be the last day we should have for mule transport in marching towards the interior of the Andes. " As a matter of fact, at 9 "30 a.m. we were en route ; we first took a southerly direction, climbed a hill, skirted the lagoons in the vicinity, in which ducks, canquenes and swans abuunded in large numbers. After descending the hill we came to a rivulet which joirred the river Donoso ; we followed its course, which wound along the slope of the mount, which was a heavy hill, cut by some ravines, difficult to cross, which, added to the holes bored in the ground by the cururos, made the route very rough. "Besides this, the weather turned rainy; but we nevertheless continued our journey. At 12-30 p.m. we found a convenient spot for crossing the river ; but it cost us a good deal of labour to get down and climb up its banks. We advanced towards Mount Payne by following in the track made by the baguales horses ; on the left, we passed a lovely and most picturesque lake surrounded by lofty hills, wooded on their upper part. We then climbed a lofty hill, to again descend, following a route which compelled us to make frequent turns in order to avoid tracts of dense forest. " From the summit of the hill we descried a river which, emerging from the Cordilleras situated on 144 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. notes that the Vizeachas river or rivulet flows towards the Cordillera, " and I the north of Mount Payne, flowed round its slope on the west and south. According to Zamora, it discharged into a lake on the south of said mountain. After a certain amount of toil, we reached the banks of the river, and we were surprised at its volume, which we found was little less than, or even equal to, that of the Gallegos. Tbe whiteness of its waters gave us the right to call it the Rio Blanco. It ran along a bed of open veins, in a very circuitous manner: in some parts its windings forming right angles, displaying in others escarpments of bare rock, making the bed of the river a veritable valley. At some points, the bed extended, and it narrowed in one place to form a waterfall seven metres high, the noise proceeding from which was heard at a great distance ; and the kind of white cloud formed by the splashing of the water could also be seen. " At one of the places where the bed of the Blanco widens out, we tried to ford it ; but were prevented doing so by the force of the current and the depth of the water. Finally, the nearer we approached Mount Payne, the more we became convinced that its ascent would be extremely difficult, if not impossible; as its slopes were very steep and its lower parts were very densely wooded. It seemed to be impossible to reach its summit, as it was surmounted by a sort of vertical column which only permitted a very small quantity of snow to remain on the summit of the mountain. " Wo camped at 4.30 p.m. — Mount Payne lying S. 65° W. on the bank of the river which flowed at its base. The horses were in a very bad state, owing to the long ride and to the rough nature of the route. The never-ending plague of sand-flies greatly worried us, there being an extraordinary number of them in the camp. " At this point the river Blanco forms a large island which bifurcates it into two branches, a little more to the north of the camp. " March 7. — Very early in the morning we had a very successful hunt. The day remained cloudy ; squalls of rain alternating with clear skies ; but it was impossible to make use of the sun to take the latitude. It appears that the lake into which the Rio Blanco discharges, stretches a good distance westwards ; Zamora, who is the person who has penetrated furthest into the country, did not determine its end ; so that should it stretch almost to the western channels, the Andes would also be cut in this part. " The hills, both in this and in the preceding camp, show a formation of conglomerated pebbles fixed together by a tenacious element, which demonstrates that the present ' relief ' is due to an upheaval of the ground (the geological specimens brought by Senor Eogers have been deposited in the collection of the Uni- versity of Santiago). r. 140. — "-March 9. — We prepared for the journey with one single load; but we waited till midday to determine the latitude, which we found to be 50° 58' 43" at the camp. " We then started towards the west, and in as straight a line as the sinuous nature of the country per- mitted. The ground was covered with some prickly bushes, which were very troublesome to the horses. We afterwards described the lake into which the Rio Blanco discharges; it is narrow and very tortuous, the hills causing it to take this shaj>e ; it stretches a good way westward. We passed by a labyrinth of hills and ravines, the ground being covered with stones, making travelling very difficult. There was a large lagoon on the south side, of a very serpent-like shape, narrowing in places to a mere thread of water between shores. This lagoon was not less than 7-5 miles long ; owing to its shape, we called it Rake Serpiente. " The snow-clad Cordillera could be seen, as well as a great glacier — on the north side of Lake Angosto — which appears to stop at the base of Mount Payne on the north side. The ice of this glacier was for the most part covered with snow, and it was of such a height that the snow-capped peaks appeared as though they were merely rising out of a heap of flour. " Ravines and hills succeed one another with great frequency, many lagoons existing in the ravines. Whenever we climbed a hill, we saw a succession of the same curiously shaped lagoons on all sides. We camped on the shores of one of them at 5.30 p.m. ]'. 140. "The Payne lay approximately north-west of our camp. The view we had of it showed us that its ascent is impossible. Its sides are very rugged and steep. "The Serpiente lagoon is nol known to have any outlet ; it recoives ono or another small rivulet, and. consequently, its waters are very bad, brackish and of bad rlavour. " In passing through the prickly bushes we set file to them, in various places, for the purpose of clearing Expeditions by the Officers of the Chilian Gunboat 'Maga//anes.' 145 am assured," he says, " it is neither an affluent of the Coile nor of the Gallegos, a more practicable route for our return, and we could see from our camp that the fire had spread considerably, as we observed the reflection of the flames a long way off. ''March 10. — A calm morning, owing to which the smoke from yesterday's fire lay along the whole horizon, preventing us from seeing far, as it was like a thick cloud. " We started shortly after 9.30 a.m. The route got much worse ; great stones, very dangerous for the horses, and very lofty and difficult hills which we had to climb and descend at every instant, made the path a perfect labyrinth. We then came in sight of the lake into which the Rio Blanco discharges, on the north margin of which rose the imposing Mount Payne. On the near side were more or less low cliffs. Its direction was approximately south-west and it was very tortuous ; the colour of the water was similar to that of the river, though less white. No baguales skeletons were found towards the interior ; they all went towards the east, and no animals frequent that part of the country, save the huemulcs, which are very scarce. '• A\e continued our journey towards the Cordillera, hearing the many murmurings made by the water- courses, noticing shortly afterwards that the part of the lake in which the Blanco discharges is of a higher level than the other ; we found that the water flowed from the former to the latter, running through a narrow gorge, and forming continual waterfalls which produced the murmurings we had heard. " Another portion extended towards the south for four or five miles, and was that which was seen in the centre of a depression ; another part extended S.S.W. for a similar length. Numerous eyots adorned the waters and the fantastic creeks foi'med by the inflexions of the shore. The taste of the lake water was insipid, and from it we could see some snowy peaks, interrupted towards the south, and lower than the Payne. " After advancing with immense labour for some four hours on the worst of roads, in which, at times, we had to make a passage for the horses between the rocks, and finding that it grew worse and that the horses were done up, I determined to return ; but before doing so, I climbed a hill, from the summit of which I saw that the waters of the lake extended towards the south where a snow-capped peak was found, forming, as it were, breaks on both sides. " Zamora informed me that the river, supposed to proceed from Lake Donoso, discharges into the lake we saw before us. " For my part, I believe that the western channels of Patagonia should be found within a very short distance of this lake, its similarity to the channels on the west being worthy of note. " Mount Payne, to which we were very close, consists of a single mass, but half-way up it rises into three peaks, the central being so steep that, except in a few spots, snow cannot rest on it. The hills seen towards the west were very low. " On the hill we were climbing we found the conglomerate already referred to, at times consisting of enormous stones. "Patches of forest existed only in the ravines, and vegetation is only found where there is water. " The smoke caused by the fires we had made and the fogs prevented us having an extensive view, and it was not possible to wait for better weather in such an unsuitable spot. '• T might observe here the wisdom of carefulness respecting fires, as they may become prejudicial to the traveller. "We could but admire with awe the stupendous work of nature in forming such a "relief" and Cordillera as that which we had before our eyes, and I greatly regret that I possess such slight geological knowledge, which prevents my describing, as I ought to, so remarkable a country, in order to throw some light on the phenomena produced there. "It was not without regret that we commenced our return, but we were compelled to do so; time pressed, owing to the condition of the horses, which prevented our advancing further unless we continued for several days on foot. We moved towards the east, keeping Lake Serpiente on our left — that is to say, north- wards — and crossed it at a very narrow passage afforded by it. We camped on the north of it at 4 p.m. P. 144. — " The river Donoso makes a bend there towards the south-east, skirting some hills, about fifteen miles beyond the camp, before discharging into the lake of the same name. The waters of this lake are of rather a whitish colour. It is some four or six miles in breadth ; its form is very irregular; there are some islands in its eastern part. It extends towards the S.S.W. and W. for a distance which' it was impossible to estimate. An excursion, for the purpose of seeing its extremity, was proposed, but we found that it would be impossible. On the north it presented very broken cliffs and hills ; on the south it was more or less the same U 146 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. but joins two others to form a larger one which runs westward until it discharges into a rather large lagoon near Pape." * He observed likewise that the Cerro Bagual, situated to the east of Cerro Payne, is to the east of the Andes and separate from them. According to this intelligent explorer, the Cordillera de los Andes begins in the Cerro Payne, towards the /rest, so that, he says, if the lake into which the Yizcachas empties itself is continued westwards to the neighbourhood of the western channels, " the Andes woidd also be cut in this part." In his excursion to the west he reached the glaciers in a narrow lake, doubt- less that known as Lake Hauthal, which has its origin in the Cordillera Nevada. " I am of opinion," he says, " that the separation between the waters of Lake Donoso and the western channels must be very slight, and also that its outlet must take place in their direction. The river carries a large amount of water in flowing to the lake, and does not return to the pampa, nor does it go to the river Gallegos as far as is known. Neither does the Coile serve as its outlet, for, if that were so, the latter would be much larger than the Gallegos." and very wooded. All this convinced us that we could not advance much farther beyond what we could see, unless we spent many days' hard work across a very bad country. Our time had expired, and the horses were nearly worn out. " I am of opinion that the separation between the waters of Lake Donoso and the western channels must be very slight, and also that its outlet must take place in their direction. The river carries a large amount of water in flowing to the lake, and does not return to the pampa, nor does it go to the river Gallegos as far as is known. Neither does the Coile serve as its outlet, for if that were so, the latter would be much larger than the Gallegos. P. 145. — "March 18. — It was cloudy at daybreak ; we started towards the east in good time, and being short of provisions, were obliged to select a place abounding in game. Wc continued on the look out for the basin of the Vizcachas, slightly to the south of the previous camp on the same river. We crossed a pampa, barren at the commencement, but towards midday a number of ostriches and numerous herds of guanacos were seen. P. 146. — " March 20. — The morning was fine, with a north-east breeze. Seiior Donoso, accompanied by Zamora, went out to look for fossils, going in the direction of the same place that they were at on January 21, in the ravine of the Leon and the river Vizcachas. " The meridian altitude of the sun was taken at midday, showing the place to be in lat. 51° 00' 01". "March 21. — We started off at 9.30 a.m. in a more or less south-east direction. We traversed a poor country, with scai'cely any grass and devoid of trees, but it abounded in gnanacos and a great number of osti iob.es and foxes ; we caught some of each. The dales were dry ; we only observed the beds of a few small streams, and also those of various small waterless lagoons. " We crossed one of the small tributary streams of the river Coile, in the dale of which green pasture was seen, and canqucnes could be counted by the thousand. " The ground covered was very similar, save for the few short clusters of hills ; but it was always easy travelling for the horses. At 4.30 p.m. we encamped at the side of the Redonda Lagoon, at the samo spot lis on tin; previous journey. There were no signs of anyone having camped their since, as we found even the firewood which had been left behind on our first journey. The lagoon abounded with ducks and swans." * The discovery of the fossil Ostrea maxima, similar to that which is found in the pampa and in the 1 stuary of the Rio Santa ( Iruz, etc., was one proof more that the region of the Vizcachas does not correspond with the Cordilleia de los Andes. Expeditions by the Officers of the Chilian Gunboat 'Magallanes! 147 At no time did it occur to Senor Rogers to say that he was within the Cordillera de los Andes notwithstanding his having explored a region relatively far distant westwards from that in which the Chilian Expert places the western slope of the principal chain of the Andes ; he only reached to the foot of its eastern slopes, so that the whole region which he describes is likewise on the east of the Cordillera, when speaking of lakes and plains. The Chilian Expert claims, nevertheless, that his line follows the western slopes (falda) of the principal chain (encadenamiento) de los Andes. 7. RESULTS TO BE DERIVED FROM THESE EXPLORATIONS. All the publications which have been mentioned were perfectly well known in Chile, and certainly to Senor Barros Arana, who negotiated the Treaty of 1876 and 1878, and co-operated, as he affirms, in concluding that of 1881. Therefore it can be confidently established that when Articles 1 and 2 of that Treaty were agreed upon the universal belief among the statesmen and men of science of Chile, and of the Argentine Republic was, that in accepting the Cordillera de Andes as the boundary, they accepted the natural, the traditional, and the most rational boundary. Also that when they agreed that the line should pass along " the most elevated crests of the said Cordilleras * that may divide the waters, and should pass between the slopes which descend one side and the other," they placed the boundary line on the high crest of the Cordillera, i.e. of the principal chain which divides the greatest part of the waters which form the regular or normal hydrographic basins situated west and east of that high crest, and which are separated by the '' vertientes " or "laderas" (slopes) of the range agreed on, giving to these words the true meaning which w T as then given by Seiiores Pissis, Domeyko and Barros Arana, high authorities in Chile, and has been given since by Senores Bertrand, San Roman, Muiioz, Sayago and Steffen, whose opinions are of not less value in Chile. According to the former authorities, the eastern slope (ladera) was bounded in the northern region by the longitudinal depression of which the valley of Uspallata forms part, and in the south by that which stretches to the west of Lake Argentino or Lake Maravilla and of Last Hope Inlet. According to some of these authorities, the Cordillera was cut before reaching the 52nd parallel of S. lat., although extending as far as Cape Horn, beyond the Straits of Magellan. * It is said "Cordilleras" probably for distinction between the Cordillera of Chile, north of the parallel of 40 and the Cordillera of Patagonia south of that parallel. u 2 148 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. By those men of science as well as by those who framed the Treaty of 1881, the dividing line in the crest which separates the waters of its slopes (vertientes), or the line of its watershed, was a continuous line, except for the occasional inter- section by rivers from east to west. The dividing line of the waters from the summit of the Cordillera de los Andes, was, according to them, a line identical in nature with the watershed of the Cordillera de la Costa, cut similarly at a number of points, since after the explorations of Ladrillero and the other travellers quoted, no one was ignorant that this feature existed in the whole of the Andes. The Argentine Republic and Chile sought by means of the Treaty of 1881 to put an end by agreement to the boundary question which had been the subject of discussion for so long a time, and believed that by the compromise so concluded they would succeed. This is a fit opportunity to repeat the observations made by Sefior Valderrama, Chilian Minister for Foreign Affairs when the Treaty was signed : — "But above all I must say that from the 23rd of July, 1881, after the failure of many attempts at a settlement of the old boundary question, Chile and the Argentine Republic gave each other the hand of friendship over the majestic Andes. I have not ceased to cherish the ardent desire that their friendship may be strengthened, to the benefit of the peace and glory of two great Republics, called, in a not distant future, to the highest destinies in the work of civilising the American Continent "The Argentine Republic, so advantageously situated, looks towards the Atlantic ; there she will fulfil the high mission which belongs to her, while Chile fulfils hers on the shores of the Pacific. The two have different spheres of action, different lines of' activity, and, like parallel lines, they cannot, and ought not, to come into collision." * The line proposed by the Chilian Expert, after a lapse of seventeen years, overthrows completely this fair and sound agreement between the two nations, and sets at naught the boundaries of the Treaty, and attempts at the same time to interfere with the bulwark provided by nature. The true dividing line, the only one possible, is in the crown of snow on the Andean crest, and by no means in the depressions and table-lands of Patagonia. Any attempt to depart from this line would be to ignore both the letter and spirit of the Treaty. The gorges or deep gaps which cut through the main range of the southern part of the Cor- dillera de los Andes are more difficult to cross than the highest pass of the north. Narrows and tremendous torrents, cascades and glaciers, forbid all access by these, and in every sense the crest of the main chain is the best and safest barrier between the two countries. * La Cuestion de limites entre Chili- y La Republics Argentina, by M. Valderrama, Santiago de Chile is(i.'>. pp. 8 and 'J. Origin of the Boundary Question. 149 CHAPTER VII. Summary — 1. Origin of the Boundary Question. 2. The Frontier Line according to. the Treaty of 1881. 3. Diplomatic Negotiations Prior to the Treaty of 1881. 4. Negotiations of the Treaty of 1881. 1. ORIGIN OF THE BOUNDARY QUESTION. Ur to 1843 Chile had given no reason for any one to think that she would ever depart from the Agreement of 1826, mentioned in Chapter I., and appeared be satisfied with the boundaries of her territory as laid down therein. Documentary evidence exists in support of this statement. For instance, on the occasion of a proposal being made for the establishing of a service of tug-boats in the Straits of Magellan, the Governor of Chile appointed in 1841 commission of three statesmen of high repute to inquire into the matter, and these commissioners in drawing up their report affirmed that the Cordilleras de los Andes were marked out as the eastern boundaries of the territory, and accordingly that only the region of the Strait on the Pacific side situated to the west of the said Cordilleras, which stretch away to the north, belonged to Chile and that the other part belonged, of course, to the Argentine Republic. In 1841, Mr. George Mahon having solicited from the Government of Chile the privilege to establish a line of steam tugs in the Magellan Straits, that Government appointed a Commission to report thereon, composed of Don Santiago Ingran, Don Diego Antonio Barros, and Don Domingo Espineira. Their Report says : — "The undersigned members would be afraid of misplacing the confidence reposed in them by you, in entrusting them with this matter, if they did not state their doubts with reference to the right of the Government, to grant the privilege, in the manner requested, for the navigation of the whole straits, as it cannot wholly belong to Chile. The Cordilleras de los Andes are defined as being the boundaries of Chilian territory on the east, and the Straits of Magellan belong to this country, from said Cordilleras as far as the western mouth. The other part belongs of course to the Argentine Confederation." 150 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. It is to this application that may be traced the initial cause of the wide question of boundaries, restricted to-day, fortunately, to some few points of detail, and confined within limits which have been already agreed upon. That application, in fact, directed the attention of the Government of Chile to the south, and resulted in the decision to colonise a part of the land in the neighbourhood of the Straits of Magellan. For that purpose, an expedition was despatched, which, on September 21 of the same year, landed at Puerto del Hambre, in the Peninsula of Brunswick, and took possession of the Straits of Magellan and its territory, in the name of Chile, to whom it belongs, according to the document concerning the occupation, and as declared in Article 1 of the Political Constitution.* The Article of the Chilian Constitution already quoted stated nothing of the kind. The Argentine Government would have protested if Chile had asserted in her Constitution her jurisdiction over territory to the east of the Cordillera. The very opposite to this Avas established by the commissioners, who stated, a few months before, that the region of the Magellan Straits, east of that range, belonged to the Argentine Republic. This country was at that moment under internal and external difficulties, and was, therefore, unable immediately to repel the occupation of the Straits. Nevertheless, the Government of Buenos Aires, on December 15, 1847, sent a protest to the Government of Chile, in which they also proved that Chile had no right to occupy the Strait which, with the adjacent territories, belonged to Argentina. In this communication the Buenos Aires Government also expressed their willingness to produce their titles, and invited the Chilian Government to present the documents which justified their action. The protest stated — " The great range of the Andes has bounded the territories of the Argentine Con- federation, and that natural boundary has been always recognised to the Republic of Chile. The Argentine territory begins at the eastern summit of the range, which forms the boundary through its whole extent as far as Cape Horn. The fort of Bulnes being situated in the peninsula indicated, its geographical position shows that it occupies a central part of Patagonia, and, therefore, by the establishment of this settlement, the integrity of the Argentine territory and its full dominion in the lands which the Straits comprehends, from the Atlantic to the Pacific, have been destroyed, since the Cordillera de los Andes, the * Note of tin' Minister of Foreign Affairs of the Argentine Confederation, to tho Minister of Foreign Affairs of Chile, December 15, 1847. Origin of the Boundary Question. 151 boundary recognised by the Republic of Chile, reaches to the opening of the Straits into the Pacific." * The Government of Chile made an ambiguous answer to the Argentine protest, and the Argentine Government replied in their turn, and both com- menced to prepare for the discussion of their respective titles. At the same time, there had arisen difficulties between the two countries, respecting the right to some valleys of the Cordillera in the province of Mendoza, but those difficulties were concerning districts in the Cordillera itself, and were not so important as the serious and extensive claims that have since been advanced to districts east of that range, and altogether outside of it. The Government of Buenos Aires lost no time in dealing with the matter, and entrusted the task of collecting; historical evidence first to Senor Pedro de Angelis, and afterwards to Senor Dalmacio Velez Sarsfield. Chile confided a similar task to Senor Miguel Luis Amunategui. Diplomatic communications were exchanged, but nothing definite arrived at, until January 31, 1856, when both countries signed a Treaty of friendship and commerce in which it was agreed that — " Both the contracting parties acknowledge as boundaries of their respective territories those they possessed as such at the time of their separation from the Spanish dominion in the year 1810, and agree to postpone the questions which may have arisen or may arise regarding this matter, in order to discuss them later on, in a peaceful and amicable manner, without ever resorting to violent measures, and in the event of not arriving at a complete arrangement, to submit the decision to the arbitration of a friendly nation." This Treaty insured mutual respect for the rights of the two countries over the whole of their territories, as they existed at the time when they became independent of the mother country. All the discussions, then, posterior to the Treaty of 1856, were to turn exclusively on the question whether or not, the original colonial titles conferred a right over the areas in question. The Argentine Republic bound herself to respect the title of Chile to all the territories possessed by that country in the year 1810, and, on the other hand, Chile bound herself to respect the title of the Argentine Government to all those territories which belonged to the Argentine Republic ("Vireinato del Rio de la Plata") at the same date. The only * The colony was called " Bulnes," and was transferred six years afterwards to a position some miles further north, and named " Punla Arenas" or Sandy Point. 152 Divergences in the Cordillera dc los Andes. difficulty, therefore, that could arise, according to the Treaty of 1856, would be in determining definitely what were the original limits of the respective countries, that is to say the uti possidetis of 1810. The Argentine Republic relied on her title, knowing that it was clear, and the matter was limited to the inquiry as to the true geographical situation with respect to the Straits of Magellan, and to the colony of Punta Arenas, or Sandy Point. 2. THE FRONTIER LINE ACCORDING TO THE TREATY OF 1881. The discussion having been adjourned by common consent in 1856, was renewed, on the initiative of Chile, in 1865, and continued under various forms until 1881. During the whole of its progress, the Argentine Republic contended that her western boundary from north to south was the Cordillera de los Andes, and that, in consequence, she had dominion over all the territory eastward of the crest of the Cordillera, the greater part of the Straits of Magellan, and the whole of Tierra del Fuego. Chile on her part accepted the natural boundary of the Cordillera to a great extent, but maintained that this boundary did not ride in the southern part of the continent; that in Patagonia the territories on both sides of the Andes were Chilian from the Pacific to the Atlantic ; that the Straits of Magellan were Chilian; and that Tierra del Fuego was also Chilian. This Chilian claim was in complete discordance with the boundary established in the Chilian Constitution and in the Treaty agreed upon between Chile and Spain, and was constantly resisted by the Argentine Government, but it gave rise to long discussions, to several projects of agreements, to many tentatives of projected arbitration, and finally to preparations for war between the two nations. The negotiations initiated by the Ministers of the United States of North America accredited respectively to the Argentine and Chilian Governments, led finally to the solution sought for, and on July 23, 1881, was signed the definitive Treaty, whose Articles 1 and 2, in their essential part, state — ■ "Art. 1. — The boundary between the Argentine Republic and Chile from north to soulli as far as the parallel of hit. 52° S., is the Cordillera do los Andes. The frontier line shall run in that extent along" the most elevated crests of said Cordilleras that may divide the waters and shall pass he t ween the slopes which descend one side and the other. The difficulties that might arise from the existence of certain valleys formed by the bifurcation of the Cordillera and in which the watershed may not he apparent, shall he amicably settled by two Experts, one to he named by each party." The Frontier Line According to the Treaty of 1881. 153 " Art. 2. — In the southern part of the Continent, and to the north of the Straits of Magellan, the boundary between the two countries shall be a line, which, starting from Point Dungeness, shall be prolonged overland as far as Mount Dinero ; thence, it shall continue westward following the highest elevations of the chain of hills existing there, until it strikes the height of Mount Ayuiond. From this point the line shall be prolonged up to the intersection of meridian 70° W. with parallel 52° S., and thence it shall continue westward, coinciding with this latter parallel as far as the divortium aquarum of the Andes." By this compromise the natural boundary of the Cordillera de los Andes in its predominant crest was definitively recognised, and the boundary determined in the Constitution of Chile became thus, in agreement with the Argentine laws, the international division between the two countries. The boundary thus fixed in 1881 is in the "Cordillera de los Andes," and this constitutes the limit to remain at all events " immovable " between the two countries. This fact being finally settled, it is, therefore, beyond all dispute ; and it is only when differences of opinion arise between the Experts as to the localisation of the line within the Cordillera de los Andes that arbitration is to be resorted to. The frontier line between the Argentine and Chilian Republics is to be always within the "Cordillera de los Andes'" and not outside of the said Cordillera. Moreover, the boundary from north to south decided upon in 1881 by the two countries, is the boundary which the two countries agreed to defend conjointly in the year 1826 ; it is also the boundary recognised by Chile in her Treaty with Spain, in 1846 ; it is the boundary claimed in the Argentine protest of 1847 ; and it is the edge or culminating line which from the Colonial times separates Chile from the Argentine Republic. According to the words of the Chilian President Bulnes, it is " the culminating line of the Cordillera between the slopes that descend to the Argentine Provinces and those that water the Chilian territory" ; according to Seiior Tejedor, Argentine Minister for Foreign Affairs in 1872, it is the line of the crest of the Cordillera de los Andes,* and it is the line of the attempted agreements of 1876, 1877 and 1878, in which the crests of the Cordillera were to constitute the dividing line between the two Republics. This line is also the boundary according to the Chilian Ministers Lastarria, Ybailez, Alfonso, and Barros Arana, and was further considered to be the dividing line by the Argentine Government, when propos- ing to the Argentine Congress the sale of lands in Patagonia, after the Argentine * Memoria del Ministerio de Eelaciones Exteriores de la Kepublica Argentina, Buenos Aires, 1873. X 154 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. army, in 1879, had subjugated the savage tribes which had been occupying the territory which Chile claimed from Argentina, although Chile had never taken any steps to assert her authority, or take possession of the territory from the natives, either by negotiations or by the force of arms. 3. DIPLOMATIC NEGOTIATIONS PRIOR TO THE TREATY OF 1881. The wording of the Treaty of L881, which fixes the boundary within the Cordillera de los Andes, formed the subject of much discussion, and an acquaint- ance with its origin and history is necessary in order to explain the terms therein employed. The wording of the Treaty was agreed upon by both nations after careful consideration and with the view of making clear the meaning of the dividing line agreed upon in the Cordillera de los Andes, as traced along the most elevated crests of the said Cordillera that may divide the waters of the eastern slope of the range from those of the west. The history of the negotiations is long and complicated, and it would be unnecessary to relate it in all its details. To explain the present controversy it is enough to indicate the clauses of the proposals for a settlement which relate to the Treaties in force. In 1866, Senor Lastarria, Minister of Chile in Buenos Aires, initiated the negotiations for a boundary Treaty, and proposed, as a compromise, the division of the Straits of Magellan at Gregory Bay, leaving as territories adjacent to the Colony of Punta Arenas, the area included within a line prolonged from that bay to the lat. 50° S. in a due north direction. The boundary of Chile to the north of lat. 50° S., would run as far as the parallel of the Bay of Reloncavi, along the eastern base of the Andes.* The reasons which Senor Lastarria had for proposing said line, contrary to his own opinion that the boundary was on the crest of the Andes, have been published. He stated as follows, in a communication to the Chilian Govern- ment : — "You directed me not to accept, other boundaries in the Cordillera de los Andes than the easternmost summits of that Cordillera, although the Chilian G-overument has always * Note of Minist.fr Lastarria to Senor Elizalde, Minister of Foreign Relations of the Argentine Republic, dated August 22, 1866, Memoria de R.E. do la R.A., 1807, p. 83. Diplomatic Negotiations Prior to the Treaty : — 1. "The Acts and Documents which have emanated from the Government of Spain, or from their authorities and agents in America, and the Documents emanating from the Governments of Chile and the A rgentine Republic. 2. "II all I Inse. Documents shiiuld not be sufficiently clear to decide the questions, the Arbitrator shall have power to decide them, applying at the same time the principles of International Law. Fourth. "The Arbitrator shall be bound to hold as binding in order to pronounce his decision, the following rule of American Public Law which the contracting Governments accept and uphold: — Diplomatic Negotiations Prior to the Treaty 0/1881. 161 In Sefior Gaspar Toro's Statement, at the time Secretary of the Chilian Legation at Buenos Aires, the following paragraphs are found : — " Thus the question of valleys having been under discussion for a considerable time, Sefior Barros Arana being instructed concerning it by Sefior Alfonso, and the point having been discussed at Buenos Aires, the Commissioners in May 1877 decided one of the bases of Arbitration then agreed to. That basis drawn up by Minister Yrigoyen, transcribing the words of Bello's International Law, was afterwards adopted without further discussion, and became a clause of Article 1 of the Treaty of January." Sefior Toro, whose words it may be well to quote, comments upon the article, and speaking of the watershed, states : — " It does not appear that the drafting of Article 1 was known to Sefior Alfonso before the signing of the agreement. He knew the purport and had accepted it, believing that the crests of the Andes should divide the two countries along the whole extent of the terri- tories not under dispute." And further on he repeats : — " The crests of the Andes divide Chile and the Argentine RepuUic. In what part ? The Treaty does not specify ; nevertheless Sefior Alfonso has stated, as has also the Argentine Chancellery later on, that they divide them in their whole extent." * In this evidence which are of purely Chilian origin, are to be found the con- clusions forming the basis of the Argentine interpretation of the Treaty, viz. :— 1. The Chilian Plenipotentiary inquired whether, to determine the line in the crest, he should choose the highest points or the watershed. 2. The Chilian Minister of Foreign Affairs instructed him that whenever the " The American Kepublics have succeeded the King of Spain in the right of possession and of dominion which he held over Spanish America. There are no territories in it which can he reputed res nulling. Fifth. — "While the Arbitrator appointed is deciding the question submitted to him, the two Governments, consistently with the promise made at the beginning of the discussion at Santiago in 1872, bind themselves to maintain strictly, in the territories comprised between Punta Arenas and the Eio Santa Cruz, the statu quo existing at that date. Sixth. — " The two Governments bind themselves equally to defend with all their powers the territories under the statu quo against all foreign occupation, making such agreements as may be necessary for the fulfilment of this stipulation. Seventh, — " They agree, lastly, to watch those territories, their coasts and adjacent islands, preventing, do long as they make no other stipulation, the exploitation of them or of part of them by public enterprise, or by individuals, leaving to the care of the Argentine Government the part comprehended between the Strait of Magellan and the Bio Santa Cruz, and to the charge of the Government of Chile the Strait with its inland channels and the adjacent islands." * La Diplomacia Chileno- Argentina en la Cuestion de limites por Gaspar Toro, Santiago de Chile, 1878, pp. 225 et seq. Y 1 62 Divergences in the Cordillera dc los Andes. Andes divide the territories of the two Republics the loftiest crests of the Cordillera should Ix considered the line of demarcation between than. 3. In compliance with this instruction the following - clause was drawn up :— " The Republic of Chile is separated from the Argentine Republic by the Cordillera de los Andes, the dividing line running along its highest points passing between the sources on the slopes that descend one side and the other." A. The clause having been agreed to, the Chilian Minister of Foreign Affairs, and the Secretary of the Legation differ in opinion on the question whether or not they should decide the question pending relating to Patagonia, but they agree that the crest of the Cordillera has been established as the boundary. With such a precedent as this, it is impossible to doubt that the Project of 1877 meant "the most elevated crests of the Cordillera" as the boundary. This was the clear and unmistakable intention of the Minister of Foreign Affairs and of the Chilian negotiator, which must be taken into exact account according to the rule of interpretation advised by Pradier-Fodere, and adopted by the Chilian Representative at the beginning of his Statement . Moreover, the Argentine negotiator Senor Yrigoyen has disclosed some further details connected with the Treaty and which lead to the same inter- pretation. The occasion for so doing was afforded him by Senor Barros Arana. A few years ago, in 1895, Senor Barros Arana published a long article in El Ferro- carril, a journal of Santiago, in defence of the continental water-divide. Having doubtless forgotten the communications he had exchanged with Minister Alfonso in 1877, he wrote : — "An attempt at a direct settlement of the boundary question in April and May 1877, having been frustrated, the negotiators, with the concurrence of their respective Govern- ments, endeavoured to submit to arbitration the territories involved in the dispute ; but they desired that the Treaty which stipulated this should contain also rules of demarcation lor that part of the boundary which need not be discussed. The Chilian Minister taking his stand on traditional custom, on sound geographical doctrine and on the principles of international law, proposed that it should be defined that the boundary all along the Chilian-Argentine Andes, was the separation of the hydrographic basins, that is to say, of the water-divide between the two countries. In support of this suggestion he quoted the opinions of eommentators on the law of nations and the geographical description of the Argentine Republic which had just been published by Burmeister, and which that country greatly applauded. The Chilian Minister moreover asked that it should be stated either in an article or in a subsequent paragraph, that the difficulties which might arise in the Diplomatic Negotiations Prior to the Treaty of 1881. 163 demarcation by the existence of internal valleys in the Cordillera in which the watershed might not be clear, should be settled by experts. Sefior Yrigoyen at once accepted this suggestion. Being desirous of finding some form to express this idea, he proposed to reproduce the words employed by Don Andres Bello in his Principles of International Law, when treating of the international boundaries of countries separated by chains of mountains." In view of these assertions, Sefior Yrigoyen was compelled to rectify the erroneous version they contained. Sefior Yrigoyen was aware that no nego- tiator had ever spoken explicitly of the continental water-divide ; he knew that although the proposed water-divide was presumably localised on the highest crest of the Andes, it was mentioned in such a vague form that it was impos- sible to accept it, and therefore he wanted to specify the precise details of the negotiations. It was, of course, evident that Sefior Barros Arana's memory was at fault; and this is shown by the fact that, if it be admitted that Sefior Yrigoyen pro- posed the adoption of Bello's formula which explicitly designates the highest peaks of a chain as boundary points, it is impossible to imagine that he could wish, by such a clear sentence, to indicate the continental divide, which is on high and low crests, on mountains and plains. But notwithstanding all this, Sefior Yrigoyen clearly specified the details of the negotiations in the following terms:— " The conferences with Sefior Barros Arana in 1876 and 1877 are extensively set forth in the Report dated April 15, 1877, which I addressed to President Avellaneda, and of which I previously gave cognisance to the Chilian Minister in order that if he found any error or omission he might advise me. It was published in the Report of Foreign Affairs for 1878. In that document it may be seen that we endeavoured mainly to obtain a definite arrangement ; after protracted discussions we succeeded in agreeing on it, and we mutually determined to submit it to our respective Governments before signing it. The Chilian Government did not approve of the arrangement, and the negotiations came to an end. On completing that Report I wrote to the President as follows : ' Your Excellency is aware of the strictly confidential character which in concurrence with the Chilian Minister we imparted to the proposals for arrangement, for reasons which I have communicated to Your Excellency. But if it has been my duty to maintain the reserve mutually agreed upon, I must no longer conceal the essential features of the negotiation. (1) In dealing either with the compromise or with the arbitration, I have not forgotten that the incident of the ship " Jeanne Ame'lie " should first of all be settled and an explanation obtained for that act whereby national jurisdiction was ignored. (2) Neither during the negotiations for arbitration, nor during the arrangements for direct settlement have I overlooked certain declarations — posterior to the year 1872 — which should be suspended. (3 ) Neither during the arrangements for settlement nor those for arbitration have I forgotten that the crests of the Cordillera constitute the dividing line of both Republics. Sefior Barros Arana, Y 2 164 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. who, as I have stated, had cognisance of that document before being submitted to the President, made no correction in, or observation on, the third conclusion, which could not express with greater clearness the formula which I then sustained, and which I have always sustained.' " After a few months of silence," continues Seiior Yrigoyen, " the Minister of Chile had an interview with President Avellaneda, and the latter told me that if further conferences were initiated, he thought we should arrive at a satisfactory solution. I explained to him that I had no objection to again devoting myself to the boundary question, although I no longer cherished hopes of arriving at an understanding which would settle the controversy. Minister Barros Arana wrote to President Avellaneda informing him of the bases which he was authorised to propose, and the first of them was the divortium aquarum as the dividing line from north to south between this Republic and the Republic of Chile. The President handed me the proposals as he received them and asked the Repre- sentative of Chile to discuss them with me. Thus we entered into a second negotiation, the object of which was to consider the bases presented by Seiior Barros Arana, and, if possible, to agree upon a treaty of arbitration, since the direct settlement was not accepted by Chile. Seiior Barros Arana officially reproduced the proposal which he made to the President to fix the divortium aquarum as the dividing line. And if the declarations, or official proposals of a Minister Plenipotentiary are regarded as made by his Government, except when the latter disavows them, there is no doubt that Argentine writers have been correct in stating that the Chilian Covernment proposed the divortium aquarum as the boundary from north to south. We shall now see whether it was accepted as is stated in El Ferrocarril of Santiago. Seiior Barros listened to the observations I made on the formula initiated by him. In the same document published in that newspaper, referring to those conferences, we find the following : ' The Chilian Minister taking his stand on tradi- tional custom, on sound geographical doctrine and on the principles of international law, proposed that it should be defined that the boundary all along the Chilian- Argentine Andes was the separation of the hydrographic basins, t/iat is to say of the water-parting between the two countries. In support of this suggestion he quoted the opinions of commentators on the law of nations and the geographical description of the Argentine Republic which had just been published by Burmeister and which that country greatly applauded.' " If I had admitted the divortium aquarum, as is alleged in the Chilian newspaper, Seiior Barros would not have had any need to appeal to scientific considerations nor to the opinions of the commentators whom he refers to, and surely he would not have appealed to them, because amongst the estimable qualities which distinguish him, one is that of not making any parade of his well-known erudition. Had I accepted that formula, there would have been no common sense or reason in my proposing the high crest of the Andes as the dividing line, and in carefully specifying the points over which such line should pass. If we had admitted the basis proposed by Seiior Barros the Treaty would have simply said, the dividing line is the continental divortium aquarum, or I should have literally copied the article proposed by him and which he endeavoured to base on the quotations and reasons published in El Ferrocarril of Santiago. And as a matter of fact, I did not accept that formula; I could not when I listened to it appreciate its practical scope, because, as I have stated on another occasion, we lacked the official surveys of the Cordillera and other necessary antecedents for proceeding with accuracy in this affair. The Diplomatic Negotiations Prior to the Treaty of 1881. 165 formula of Senor Barros Arana was absolutely new to me. The limit between these Republics was always the crest of the Cordillera : the snowy Cordillera (' la Cordillera Nevada ') were the words used in all the documents and books of the Colonial period. And that formula has been repeated in all the documents and books published in America and in Europe since the emancipation, among them the Constitution of Chile, and some of her international treaties. But as to the divortium aquarum, the hydrographic basins, I do not remember seeing them sustained or mentioned in any negotiations at any time. And probably it has not yet been insinuated, since the Chilian Expert does not quote any case in which it is pointed out." Further on, Senor Yrigoyen adds : — " The novelty of the formula proposed by the Chilian Minister ; the fact that the Cordillera or its crests are not mentioned in it ; the want of any antecedent for such proposal, and the fear lest it might involve us in further differences, were motives why I, out of that consideration to Senor Barros Arana which is due to him, did not admit it, but proposed to him that it should be substituted by that of the ' high crests,' which has age in its favour as well as the previous sanction of both Governments. And being anxious to let it appear that the formula presented by me also possesses the prestige of science, I pointed out that we could use the words employed by Seuor Bello in his Treatise on International Law when dealing with nations between whose territories mountains or Cordilleras lay. Senor Barros Arana accepted the substitution, explaining that he could not refuse the formula counselled by an authority so respected in Chile. Consequently, the formula of the divortium aquarum proposed by him in his letter to President Avellaneda, and in the subsequent interviews he had with me at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, was withdrawn and eliminated, and did not reappear in any of the subsequent negotiations ; and the formula of the ' high crests ' which I submitted was set down as the first article of the Arbitration Treaty, which was stipulated and signed by Senor Barros Arana in 1877 and 1878." After stating these antecedents, Senor Yrigoyen reproduces the com- munications exchanged between Ministers Barros Arana and Alfonso, already commented upon, which assist us in defining the scope of the Convention by specifying that the proposal which it had in view was that of establishing the highest crest of the Cordillera as the boundary; and in order to make it once more clear that this was the persistent idea of the Chilian Government, he mentions a further fact. A few days after the Chilian Government had repudiated the proposal of 1877, Senor Alfonso suggested a fresh convention to Senor Barros Arana: — " It consists, said Senor Alfonso, in the fixation of a line to divide the possessions of both nations, in the river Santa Cruz for instance, and as a last resource in the Rio Grallegos. This line, if extended as far as the Andes, would be the limit of the two Republics in Patagonia and the most elevated crests of those mountains towards the north. Arbitration would be constituted with the exclusive object of determining the pecuniary compensation 1 66 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. which one Republic should owe to the other. It is thus manifest,"' writes Serior Yrigoyen, " as it also is in the official documents of Chile, that the Minister Senor Barros proposed to his Government to fix the limit of the ' high crests,' and that he was authorised to accept it and to propose it." Senor Yrigoyen completes the statement of the negotiations of the Treaty with these words : — " This second negotiation having failed, I reported it also to President Avellaneda, in a further communication dated June 24, 1877. Before signing it, I decided to send it, like the last, to the Chilian Minister so that he might examine it and let me know if he found any error, or if I had omitted any reference which it would interest His Excellency to state. He replied on the 26th of the same month, thanking me for the loyalty of my action, and his reply contains the following paragraphs : ' When we resumed our interviews at the end of April and at the beginning of May last I had the honour to place in Your Excellency's hands a sheet of notes in which I had set down the bases which, in my opinion, and according to the instructions of my Government, should serve in the formulation of the arbitration convention. According to my proposal and in accordance with those notes, we ought to leave a record in the protocol of our interviews of these three facts : 1st. The explanations given by me in respect to the seizure of the " Jeanne Ame'lie," and considered by Your Excellency, if not sufficient to put an end to the discussion on that incident, at any rate sufficient to cause it to be removed for the time being so as to facilitate the discussion of the main subject. 2nd. The reciprocal declaration that both Governments consider the dividing line between Chile and the Argentine Republic throughout that part of the territory in regard to which no discussion has arisen to be the divortium aquarum of the Cordil- lera de los Andes. 3rd. That both Republics believe that as heirs to all the rights of the King of Spain over those countries, the disputed territories are as a matter of fact of Chile or of the Argentine Republic, who do not recognise claims which any other country desires to enforce against them. Both Your Excellency and myself were agreed on these three declarations, but we were not agreed, neither did we discuss much in detail, either their definite form or whether they were to be embodied in the protocol or in the text of the convention. / do clearly remember that as regards the second of these points Your Excellency consulted -me as to ivhether it would not be desirable to reproduce the words ern- ployed by Don Andres Bello in his Treatise on, International Law when reft rring to tin' boundaries <>f countries xiparated entirely or partially by chains of mountains, ami that I replied that I could not refuse to accept an authority so eminent ami respected in Chile. But in all this we simply agreed on the main idea without going so far as to specify it in precise words." (Note of June 1877.) The Minister of Chile thus recognised that he had officially proposed i he divortium aquarum and that on my suggestion that formula was substituted by that of Senor Bello ; and this was the one adopted in all the subsequent conventions, as it will be seen in the following pages." * The Chilian Representative mentioned some of the details to which Senor Yrigoyen refers ; and being desirous of reconciling them with the doctrine which e * Avticulos del Doctor Yrigoyen, 1895, Buenos Aires, pp. 27 et seq. Diplomatic Negotiations Prior to the Treaty £?/* 1 88 1 . 167 Chile now upholds, he found a very peculiar explanation. He recognises, in fact, that an interchange of proposals did take place between the Argentine Minister and the Chilian Plenipotentiary: that the latter proposed the divortium aquarum, and that the former thought it more prudent to adopt Bello's formula, 'flic Chilian Representative recognises all this, but he thinks that the question rested solely on the choice of the language in which the clause was to be expressed; for, as he says, the Chilian negotiator preferred Latin, whilst the Argentine negotiator thought Spanish would be the most suitable. The Tribunal has heard this statement set forth in the following words: — " The only question was whether the Latin locution divortia aquarum should be used, or the Spanish phrase employed by the writer on international law Don Andres Bello." It is to be noted that in the statement read by the Chilian Representative before the Tribunal, a paragraph has been translated from Senor Yrigoyen's explanation which ends as follows: — " In consequence, the formula of the divortia aquarum proposed by him (Senor Barros Arana) in letter to Dr. Avellaneda and at the subsequent conferences with me (Senor Yrigoyen) at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, was withdrawn and eliminated, not to reappear in any of the subsequent negotiations ; and the formula of the ' high summits ' presented by me, was adopted as the 1st Article of the Treaty of Arbitration put forward and signed by Senor Barros Arana in 1877-78." The phrase is very clear, and nevertheless the Chilian Representative comments on it, by saying : — " It is easy to see that the rectification contained in the reply of Senor Yrigoyen was merely a question of words. The predominating idea, the fundamental thought, remained the same, whether conveyed by the concise Latin expression divortia aquarum of the Andes or by the Spanish phraseology, longer but equally precise, i.e. line which runs over the highest points of the Cordilleras de los Andes, and passing between the sources of the streams which flow down to either side." That is to say, the Chilian Representative understands that to reject the divortium aquarum, and to adopt in lieu the "high crests " simp/// involves a declaration of preference for the living languages over the dead languages. If this were so, the present contro- versy would be meaningless. The Argentine Republic is simply anxious that in the demarcation of her western boundary the upper crests which were proposed by Senor Yrigoyen and accepted by Senor Barros Arana, in 1877, shall not be aban- doned, and that the watershed shall be localised on the summit of the Cordillera. It is therefore seen that the boundary which was recognised and which it 1 63 Divergences in tJie Cordillera de los Andes. was desired to sanction, was the traditional and safe limit, the mountain barrier which at its upper crest fixes the common boundary always recognised. It is also seen that if the " water-divide " was vaguely referred to, it never meant that such divide was the water-divide of the South American continent. No document has been or can be produced during the whole course of the negotia- tions in 1877, in which any mention is made even indirectly of the separation of the hydrographieal basins of the rivers that run to the Atlantic and to the Pacific. Lastly, it is seen that the interoceanic divide had not till then been mentioned in the discussion on the boundary between the Argentine Republic and Chile. Further on it will be seen that the doctrine is much more recent. When the measures for compromise and for arbitration concerted by Seriores Yrigoyen and Barros Arana had fallen through, in each case owing to the disapproval of the Chilian Government, the Minister Seiior Barros Arana put a stop to the formulation of any further projects, and left the city of Buenos Aires for a time. On his return he resumed the conferences with the Argentine Minister for Foreign Affairs, at the time Sefior Rufino de Elizalde, which went so far as to the completion and signature, on January 18, 1878, of another Arbitration Treaty, destined to meet the same fate as the former ones, namely, to be disapproved by the Chilian Government, which again repudiated the work of their Plenipotentiary. The details of the negotiations which led to this proposed Treaty have been published in Official Reports, but in them we find no trace of continental divide, of separation of hydrographieal basins, or of the source of the currents running io the Pacific and to the Atlantic; there is not a word in them answering to the theory that there is no other standard to judge than the sources of the rivers, to the exclusion sometimes of the main chain of the Andes, and at others of the Cordillera itself. Article 1 of the Elizalde-Barros Arana project, did not differ substantially from the respective Article of the above mentioned Yrigoyen-Barros Arana project : — "The Argentine Republic is divided from the Republic of Chile by the Cordillera de los Andes, the line running along its highest points passing between the sources on the slopes i descend one side and the other. Any difficulties which may arise from (lie existence of certain Cordillera valleys in which the line of watershed is not clear, are to be settled amicably with the help of the Experts." Diplomatic Negotiations Prior to the Treaty ^/" 1881. 169 Thus the dividing line in the summit of the Cordillera was again agreed upon by the two Governments. Chile, according to that projected Treaty, ceased to claim land to the east of the Cordillera de los Andes, north of parallel- lat. 52° S., and as a consequence the article that in the former proposed agree- ment regulated the status quo in Patagonia was eliminated. The summit of the Cordillera as the line of delimitation between the two countries being accepted, the Argentine Government yielded in the south, and took into consideration the political interests, and the situation created by the Chilian occupation of Punta Arenas, which is located to the east of that part of the Cordillera below parallel lat. 52° S., and cut by some channels leading to the Pacific. The Chilian Minister Seiior Barros Arana was replaced by Seilor Jose M. Balmaceda, to continue the negotiations upon boundaries. The difficulties to be overcome were exclusively on the extreme south. There was no question about the western line from north to south. It was already agreed with the special assent of Seiior Barros Arana, as Minister of Chile, that — " The Republic of Chile is separated from the Argentine Republic by the Cordillera de los Andes, the dividing line running along its highest points passing between the- sources on the slopes that descend one side and the other." It was already agreed that the meaning of the above words was that given by Senor Alfonso, the Chilian Minister of Foreign Affairs, who, in special instructions to Seiior Barros Arana regarding the Boundary Treaty, said: — " Whenever the Andes divide the territories of the two Republics, the loftiest crests of the Cordillera should be considered the line of demarcation between them." This same interpretation was maintained by both Governments in the succeeding negotiations, and is that applied by both Governments to the wording of the Treaty of 1881. Between the term of office of Senor Barros Arana and that of Seiior Balmaceda there was framed at Santiago the Treaty called Fierro-Sarratea, which did not contain a definition of the boundary line. The Argentine Congress, however, did not accept this proposed Treaty. Senor Jose M. Balmaceda continued the negotiations concerning the boun- daries, but it was not possible to arrive at any agreement with him in regard to z 170 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. the mutters of the arbitration to which the Treaty of 1856 referred, and the negotiations were suspended. Sefior Balmaceda was commissioned by his Government, in case he did not succeed in getting the Fierro-Sarratea Compact approved in Argentina, to adopt the necessary measures to obtain an adjustment, fixing the boundary line " on the eastt rnmost slopes of the Cordillera de los Andes," and he requested the Argentine Government to adopt a demarcation further east than that of the high summits — as had been suggested by Sefior Lastarria — inasmuch as the watershed was not clearly defined in the Patagonian region. At the same time he informed his Government by telegram : — "Yesterday a meeting of geographical specialists who were to give their opinion upon the Andean region east of the Cordilleras and the configuration of the high plain at its foot, was held at the Government Offices. They thought that it would he very difficult to carry out the demarcation on the ground itself, as well as to effect the same on the map of the plain designated. And, as far as the Cordillera was concerned, they were unanimously of opinion that it terminated at Cape Providence, and that from Keloncavi to the south there was a well-defined divortium aquarum dividing Patagonia from the western region. * Senor Bulnes (p. 99) who published this telegram, says that he has reasons for believing that the present Expjert Moreno was at the meeting. It is true ; Senor Moreno was present, and he affirms that at that meeting all opinions concurred in considering no more desirable boundary to exist than that formed by the summit of the Cordillera. There was also mentioned at this meeting the case of the Bio Aysen, which crossed said summit; the existence of " canales " east of the Cordillera, and the latter's continental termina- tion in Cape Providence, in agreement with the opinion of Darwin and Agassiz. No one present at that meeting thought for a moment of removing the boundary to the continental water-parting east of the Cor- dillera, and proof of the views which the said present Expert held at that time with respect to the boundary, is his delineation of the same in a sketch which he published at that time(l) to illustrate the question pending, in which the boundary appears along the summit of the Cordillera intersecting the river Aysen and the Canales situated on Argentine territory, and terminating at " Cabo Providencia Fin de los Andes." Senor Moreno at the same time published some notes on the Patagonian lands (2), in which he said, speak- ing of the Cordillera: — P. 15. — "Of a more modern general formation, apparently, than those by which it is flanked, the central cordon, which is the one that serves as the division <>f the waters, is composed of loftier cones, which diminish in height towards the south, sometimes forming rather low passes of some importance, such as the Banco and Villarica gaps, those of Bariloche and Pedro Eosales, facing Lake Nahuel-Huapi, which Musters visited opposite Teckel, that of river Aysen, in 45", and that situated in 50° 40' more or less, a little to the south of Mount Stokes, the latter being seen with its ice-cap from the end of Lake Argentino, near which tin' more ancient formation of the eastern pre-Cordillera disappears ; only the schistous clay remaining. "The Andes divide at this part, and with this beautiful mass of soaring peaks, some with almost (1) Cuestiones Chileno-Argentinas. Croquis de la parte mistral de la Repiiblica Argentina disputada por loa Chilenos, December 21, L878, Buenos Aires. (2) Apuntcs sobve las Tierras Patagonicas, Buenos Aires, 1878. Diplomatic Negotiations Prior to the Treaty of 1881. 171 It will not be superfluous at this stage to recall the proposal of compromise which Senor Monies de Oca, who succeeded Senor Elizalde as Minister for Foreign Affairs, made to Senor Balmaceda after the meeting referred to, because vertical cliffs, others rounded into domes and towers, all glittering and covered with perpetual snow in which the colours of the sky are reflected, change their north-south direction, which they may be said to follow from the regions of the north, and, inclining almost imperceptibly to the south-west, they completely disappear upon reaching lat. 52° S. " Within the space comprised between 51° and 53°, the last links of the great chain part, and deviate into the midst of an intricate labyrinth of deep and narrow channels, whose geographical appellation reveals the heartsick and disconsolate feelings of the hardy English mariners who traced upon the maps the lines which Creation itself drew there. " The Little Hope Inlet, that of Last Hope, Obstruction Sound, and the Canal de las Montanas running at the foot of the Cordillera de Sarmiento, almost surround the extremity of the true Cordillera, and Mount Burney alone, the last of its high peaks, rises in King William's Land. The last Andean spurs reach a little further to the south, finishing close to Cape Providence, where ' the Andes properly so-called begin at the Straits of Magellan,' according to the opinion of Agassiz, the eminent scientific authority. There, in the environs, terminates the backbone of America, hidden in impenetrable forests. "According to the same author, 'the mountains to the north of Mount Providence, the Cordilleras of Sarmiento, and the mountain chains to the east and north of the Nevado Glacier, are parts of one and the same chain, and in reality form the southern termination of the Andes.' P. 17. — " From all the foregoing it appears that the Andean, and the only natural boundary between the Argentine Republic and Chile ends at Cape Providence, close to Beaufort Bay, the latter being situated at about sixty miles before reaching the western outlet of the Straits of Magellan, on their northern edge. And if Darwin's opinion is accepted, this line should appear to continue in the Cordillera of the islands as far as Mount Darwin and thence to Cape Horn. " Chile, therefore, has no right of dominion over the Straits in the region which she at present occupies. " The Argentine Republic, the sole owner of those regions, in which is included] the Brunswick Penin- sula where Punta Arenas is situated, is unquestionably entitled to demand the evacuation of the said peninsula, but for equity's sako, I think she might cede to Chile King William's Land, where the Cor- dillera ends, a territory which appears to me to be separated from the rest of the continent by a channel which perhaps communicates with Obstruction Sound, in the neighbourhood of Up and Down Cape, and with Skyring Water through Rhys Inlet, between Mount Dynevor Castle and the Pinto Hills which I believe form the western extremity of the hills called San Gregorio that begin at the Straits. The said channel has not yet been explored by competent persons, but I have heard that it exists, and if this be so, that great territory would be transformed into an island. The Brunswick Peninsula would likewise remain to Chile. The dividing line would then run from the extremity of Last Hope Inlet which bathes the foot of the Andes along the probable channel above mentioned, then by Fitz Roy Channel, by Otway Water, and by the narrowest part of the isthmus, situated between the latter and the Straits in a line from east to west from tLe south of Shoal Haven at Cape Negro, along a rivulet that runs there, a part where the glacial deposits and an uj)heaval have closed the maritime communication which in other times converted the peninsula into an island. " The islands to the east of Punta Arenas in the Straits would remain Argentine. This natural boundary would continue, leaving Dawson Island to Chile, southwards along the end of ' Admiralty Sound,' whence there spreads towards the S.S.E. an icy plain formed by the glaciers of Mount Darwin, which have filled the channel that connected the said sound with Beagle Channel, facing Ponsonby Sound, and from there the line would follow on to the south as far as Cape Horn. Thus both countries would amicably share, almost in equal parts, the Straits and Tierra del Fuego, a larger extent of Magellanic lands remaining in the power of the Chilians than that remaining in the possession of the Argentine Republic. These are the boundaries which Nature has traced between the two countries." These were the views of Senor Moreno as geographer in 1878, and he held the same twenty years later, when in 1898 he, as the Argentine Expert, proposed the boundary line along the summits of the Cordillera z 2 172 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. it again manifests the intention of the Argentine Government to declare the line along the crest of the Cordillera as the boundary between the two countries. That draft says: — " Art. 1. The Cordillera de los Andes is, from north to south, the dividing boundary between the Republics of Argentina and Chile, as far as lat. 52°, the line of separation de los Andes as the natural and traditional boundary, limited to the 52° by the Treaties. Nay more, in June 1881, previous to the signing of the Treaty of that year, Senor Moreno, in a Eeport to the Minister of Foreign Affairs for the Argentine Eepublic, stated that, if the boundary were traced along the summit of the ( 'ordillera de los Andes, the Argentine Eepublic would have access to the Pacific. The said Minister, Senor Yrigoyen, made reference to that Eeport in his speech at the Chamber of Deputies on September 2, 1881, during the discussion of the Treaty of July (3) of that year, stating : — P. 199. — "I have consulted the opinion of Senor Moreno, and will take leave to read the notes which he has been good enough to hand me. " The Treaty which specifies the 52° for the southern boundary of Argentine territory, and the Cordillera ilr los Andes for the western, allows of our having ports in the waters of the Pacific. "The Cordillera Sarmiento is cut at 52° 12', leaving a navigable channel between that place and King William's Land where Mount Burney rises. "This channel, called 'Ancon sin Salida,' skirts the great peninsula of the said chain, forms the Small HojJe Inlet to the east of the same, penetrates between the two peninsulas, dividing itself into two small channels, but which are always navigable, and reaches the great gulfs of Last Hope Inlet ('Abra de la Ultima Esperanza'j and the 'Abra de la Obstruccion' (Obstruction Sound). The line of 52° cuts these gulfs in the middle, leaving the first to Argentine and the second to Chile. " The first inlet and that of Warley, which is also Argentine, have good harbours and anchorages. " The surrounding territory is very different from that situated to the west of the Sarmientn < 'ordillera. The climate is very mild, the rains less frequent, the land fertile in the extreme, and the mountains, which are not lofty, form wide valleys between their sides. " To the east of this territory the country resembles that of Gregory Eange (Estrecho de Magallanes), to which it likewise appertains in its geological formation. "In its neighbourhood there arise the affluents which form the Gallegos river, and in general, these are lands easy to colonise with more advantage than those of the Brunswick Peninsula. " The region situated to the north, between the extremity of Last Hope Inlet (of which the ending is not well known yet) and Lake Argentino, extending to twenty leagues, is still unknown, but I believe that one of the arms of that lake, which I visited in 1877, extends southwards, becoming smaller over the distance, and other lakes besides which appear in that direction, and whoso contours have not been thoroughly investi- gated, between the Inlet mentioned and Lake Argentino, thus form a fresh-water channel running parallel to the sea channel which runs from Eeloucavi Bay fed by the waters of the Pacific. My opinion is that this region is of immense value; the lands, the forests, and the pasture grounds which support the herds of wild horses, and the comparatively mild climate, will permit of the development of future settlements. The carboniferous seams extend from the Straits farther north of Lake San Martin ; the quantity of timber is very large, and the glacial alluvium contains grains of gold. I believe that by having that region examined, ascending the Santa Cruz in a small steamer, and with the expedition starting from Lake Argentino, an easy exploration of this territory might bo made, and we should thus learn what facilities exist fur the communi- cation between our Atlantic settlements and those which may in future bo founded near those of the waters of the Pacific. " By the neutralisation of the said channel situated to the south of 52°, our commerce would have easy (3) Discurso del Sefior Ministro ile Relaciones Exteriores, Dr. D. Bemai'do de Yrigoyen — pronunciado en la Camara de Diputados Nacionales en las sesiones de los dias 31 n am side and tin other" and he stated that it was suggested because Senor Yrigoyen considered that its wording (the wording of the Valderrama basis) ''was perhaps not sutHciently explicit to establish the principle of demarcation by the divortia aquarum pre- viously accepted." The conjecture of the Chilian Representative as to the inten- tions of Senor Yrigoyen was previously published by a Santiago newspaper, and Negotiation of the Treaty 0/1881. 179 although it was stated nakedly and without any document in support of it, forced Senor Yrigoyen to contradict it energetically. " Although I have thought the matter over," he said, " I cannot find any foundation for such an inaccurate statement So that the explanation given in El Ferro-Carril of Santiago is completely groundless, unlikely and gratuitous. I added the words which are quoted with very different intention to that, which is assumed." * Senor Yrigoyen need not have contradicted it. It is inconceivable, that in order to adopt as a boundary line one separating the hydrographic basins of the South-American Continent it should be said that it must pass between the two slopes of a range ; but the unmistakable assertion of Senor Yrigoyen equally dissipates all doubt. While the Treaty of 1881 and the projects prior to it were the subjects of debate between negotiators, Parliaments and Ministers, the discussion was simply how far the limit of the Cordillera extended to the south. The Argentine Republic maintained that the upper crests of the Andes formed the dividing- barrier as tar as the southern confines of the two countries. Chile, on the other hand, accepted that barrier, at times up to 40°, at times up to 46°, at times up to some other degree, thinking that the same regulations could not apply in the south as they did in the centre and in the north : hence her pretensions to Patagonia. The Chilian Minister, Senor Ybanez, expounded this doctrine when commenting, in his note of February 25, 1874, on the Real Cedula of King Carlos II. of 1684. The pertinent part of the paragraph runs thus: — . . . . " When affirming that the Cordillera Nevada divided them, it only stated a fact which I have not denied and no one can contradict, namely, that throughout, the entire extent of the provinces of Rio de la Plata, the said Cordillera is its natural division ; but it ceases to he so where the southern limit of the said provinces exist, that is to say, along the entire extent of Patagonia." There was, therefore, no question of a divide of continental waters nor of hydrographic basins, nor was it ever pretended that, in order to mark out the boundaries, it was necessary to seek in the oceans for the rivers which emptied themselves therein and to ascend them afterwards up to their sources on plains and on hills. No ; the sole question was to know how far the limit along the Cordillera Nevada stretched on the south. The 1881 compromise put an end to this con- Articulos del Doctor Yrigoyen, 1895, Buenos Aires, pp. 52 and 53. 2 a 2 180 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. troversy. Chile acknowledged that the Cordillera separates the two countries as far as the parallel of lat. 52° S., and the Argentine Republic, in return, acknow- ledged on her part, as Chilian territory, the territory adjoining the Straits of Magellan (which was declared neutral), and the greater part of Tierra del Fuego and the southern islands. The acknowledgment by Chile of the Cordillera as the boundary between the two countries was, therefore, the basis of the compromise, and in order to affirm that principle, it was so declared in the first lines of Article 1 of the Treaty. To depart from that majestic Avail tor any purpose or any object is to disregard the clearest and most precise antecedents of the negotiation which was arrived at after overcoming so many obstacles. Erroneous Considerations on Interpretation of the Treaty of 1881. 181 CHAPTER VIII. Summary — 1. Erroneous Considerations on the Interpretation of the Treaty of 1881. 2. Interpretation Consistent with International Law. 3. Interpretation Consistent with the Views of the Negotiators. 4. Interpretation Consistent with the Literal Meaning of the Covenant. 5. Chilian Interpretations. 1. ERRONEOUS CONSIDERATIONS ON THE INTERPRETATION OF THE TREATY OF 1881. Notwithstanding the clearness of Article 1 of the Treaty of 1881, the Chilian Representative has endeavoured to prove that this article upholds the principle of the continental divide, and that such was the understanding of Argentine and foreign opinion. With this purpose in view he quoted some of the paragraphs from the works of Senores Leguizamon, Zeballos and Latzina, and the maps of Dr. Brackcbush, of the Geographical Institute of Buenos Aires, of Dr. Giissfeldt and Dr. Siemiradski. It is, without doubt, unnecessary to enter into considerations tending to prove the absolute inapplicability of these quotations. The considerations contained in the explanations which precede, applied to the examination of each of them, are sufficient to disauthorise them. It is obvious that the mere fact of speaking of waters does not warrant the supposition that it signifies a continental divide, which was never spoken of during the course of the lengthy negotiations which preceded the settlement of 1881. It is not sufficient, there- fore, to pick out single phrases of writers, where appears the word " waters," to conclude that they favour, as the frontier line, one which leaving the gigantic massifs of the Andes, descends to the pampas, and follows in infinite turns and twists the sources of rivers which discharge their waters into the Atlantic and into the Pacific. The Chilian theory has never been accepted by Argentine writers. Senor Leguizamon has mentioned the divortium aquarum of the Andes and not of the continent, and in doing so, he has taken into account that this phrase, 1 82 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. according to the official hermeneutics of Chile, explained by her ministers, in absolute terms, signifies "the most elevated crests of the Cordillera, and nothing else." He could never have thought that a Convention which deter- mined the tracing of the boundary in the Cordillera and in its highest crests, would authorise the forsaking of this Cordillera and these highest crests. Never did he think it, and consequently, never did he say so. From Senor Zeballos, the following paragraph has been taken : — " A careful survey lias proved beyond doubt the existence of a wide river whose direction from east to west showed that the travellers were treading on Chilian territory/' It is to be borne in mind that Senor Zeballos has always been, both in private life and as a Minister, an ardent defender of Argentine claims, an energetic propagandist against all interpretation which did not owe its origin to the Treaty itself and its antecedents, and, on that ground, an energetic propagandist against the continental divide. It will be seen later on that when the provisions of the Treaty of 1881 were being carried out, he held an unmistakeable attitude against the theory that, without any foundation,- the Chilian Statement attributes to him. When an opinion is so manifest, when it shows itself as the declaration of looted belief, as happens in the present ease, it is not possible to argue, to deprive it of its value, by a few loose words which represent nothing, and by the means of which it is hoped to arrive at an issue by means of complex considerations. Senor Zeballos could not have meant that the direction of a river, from east to west, would be of itself a sufficient indication of Chilian territory. When expressing himself as he did in the words that have been quoted, he meant a certain and determined spot; otherwise the sentence would have no meaning at all. The rivers of the whole world do not belong to Chile merely because they run from east to west, Senor Zeballos did not wish to show that the Clyde, for example, belongs to Chile. He mentioned a place, in which though the river would run from north to south, from south to north, from east to west, or from west to east, it would be exactly the same, because he was referring to a region washed by the Pacific Ocean to the west of the ridge of the Andes. The Expert Senor Don Diego Barros Arana had already cited the same passage, which gave an opportunity to Senor Magnasco to show the inapplica- bility of the quotation, saying: — Erroneous Considerations on Interpretation of the Treaty of 1881. 183 " It is a question of a phrase inserted in Volume 7 of the Boletin del Institute Greografico Argentino, casually written without any official character whatever, by which the then President (if we are not "mistaken) of the Institute said : ' A careful survey has proved beyond doubt the existence of a wide river whose direction from east to west showed that the travellers were treading on Chilian territory.' And adds this which the Expert did not quote. ' A step further and the rocks immerge in the blue and smooth waters of a colossal gulf, limited in the distance, in the very distance, by dark grey masses of the inaccessible rocks of Chiloe', which appear in the distance,' etc., etc. It was the question of a region in which the central massifs of the Cordillera disappeared in the alternative immersions, characteristic in the south." * The Chilian Representative has also quoted the opinion of Seilor Latzina, inasmuch as when in describing in eight different parts of his book, each of the provinces or territories contiguous with the frontier, he said that they are separated from Chile " by the divortium aquarum, or by the water-parting line." As Sehor Latzina refers to the Boundary Treaty of 1881, it would be pre- suming, leaving aside any other consideration, that he wished to refer to regional watersheds, to those which occur in the main chain of the Andes. He speaks, in fact, of the divortium aquarum of the Andes or the divortium aquarum of the Cordilleras, and not of the continental divortium aquarum. Nothing leads to suppose that his meaning (though he does not explain it) differs from that officially given by the Chilian Ministers, Alfonso and Walker Martinez and from that scientifically given by the exponents of International Law, and especially by Bluntschli. " The watershed line is formed by the highest crest of the chain." Of the eight quotations from Senor Latzina brought forward in the State- ment read by the Chilian Representative, seven have reference to the divortium aquarum of the Cordillera, and one is as follows : — " The Province of Catarnarca is separated from Chile and the Desert of Atacama and Antofagasta by the line that divides the waters which flow to the Pacific Ocean and to the great central plateau." In the seven above-mentioned quotations, Senor Latzina stated the true boundary having regard to the Treaties in force, but in the one mentioned he made an evident mistake, which is shown by the Chilian Expert himself in the * Osvaklo Magnasco, El Alegato CMleno. Refutation. Buenos Aires, 1896, p. 39. 184 Divergences in tlic Cordillera de los Andes. line for that part of the frontier which he proposed t<> the Argentine Expert in the record of September 3, 1898, and which cuts rivers running towards the Atlantic Ocean. But there is more. In the French edition of his book, Geographic de la Republique Argentine, Sefior Latzina has inserted the eight passages which the Chilian Representative has taken from the Spanish edition,* and has inserted them in the same terms, without any change whatsoever. Neither in this edition has the author stopped to explain them. It appeared to him, undoubtedly, superfluous. But, on the contrary, he makes it evident, and in a categorical manner, that he has never taken into consideration the continental divide. He considers that the boundary line is the line of the watershed of the Cordillera, and it is so evident that he rejected the continental divide that he had set 'aside the sources of rivers which bring their waters to the Pacific. In the map which accompanies the work, edited in 1889, the frontier line cuts, amongst others, the rivers Aysen and Huemules, whose head springs are outside and eastward of the principal range of the Andes. Consequently, Sefior Latzina confirms once more the theory that the Argentine Republic maintains, in strict conformity with the conventions in force. The maps that the Chilian Representative mentions are also inapplicable. The map of Dr. Luis Brackebush is divided into two parts :■ — " The northern and more accurate is the first Argentine map," says the Chilian Representative, " showing in their true proportions the eastern ranges of the Andes in the Provinces of Mendoza, San Juan and Rioja." It does not matter that in this part of the map no rivers are shown to be cut by the boundary line. In the region therein depicted, the rivers which flow to the Pacific spring at and descend from the most elevated crests of the Andes. The continental divide is therefore concurrent there with the most elevated crests, i.e. with the boundary agreed upon. If the Provinces of Mendoza, San Juan and Rioja only are taken into consideration the map proves nothing, and confirms nothing against the boundary line as interpreted by the Argentines. The Statement lead by the Chilian Representative having alluded to Dr. Bracke- bush's maps, it will not be idle to mention to the Tribunal that in the one published in 1880, as well as in that of 1889, the boundary between the two * Geographic de la Republique Argentine, Uiienos Aires, 1800, pp. 316, 329, 34 I. 356, 439, 144, 447, and 14!'. Erroneous Considerations on Interpretation of the Treaty of 1881. 185 countries, in those provinces, is drawn over the summit of the Cordillera- considering as such summit, in the Province of La Rioja, the range which from Cerro de la Gallina, extends northwards as far as Cerro Bravo, etc., and including in it the Volcano Azufre or Copiapo. Consequently, the boundary to which the Chilian Expert lays claim in those latitudes, i.e. at the San Francisco Pass, is not to be found in Dr. Brackebush's line. But the Chilian statement, foreseeing the explanation just given, goes on as follows : — "Between the 27th and 28th parallel the author considers that the main water-divide (interoceanische Wasserscheide) does not exist, as no water flows down to either side from the high plateau of the Cordillera. The author, however, is in doubt on this point, and has inserted the words ' disputed by Chile ' (cuestionado por Chile) in the doubtful region." A copy of Dr. Brackebush's map is laid before the Tribunal, in which not the slightest indication will be found that this author considers that the main water- divide does not exist between the 27th and 28th parallels, notwithstanding that in the Chilian Statement it has been thought useful to introduce in brackets the German translation of the words " interoceanic divide" — interoceanische Wasser- scheide — words which do not appear at all in the map. The words " cuestionado por Chile," disputed by Chile, are there merely as an indication of a Chilian pretension, which is clearly seen, as Dr. Brackebush places the boundary line east of the region covered by them. On the proximities of the 41st parallel, it is true that the line is drawn on the water-divide, but the Tribunal must know that the water-divide is there shown as being on the high summit of the Cordillera, which has been carried to the east of Lago Lacar, where in reality it does not exist — an error committed by Dr. Brackebush, because south of the city of Mendoza to Cape Horn he has made his map merely on references, more or less authorised, deprived of geographical value. The Chilian Representative adds that " the southern part of the map is geographically of far less value than the former," and therefore the map need not be further taken into account. Moreover, the Argentine Government, who had the same opinion as that just quoted from the Chilian Representative with regard to the inaccuracies in it, disapproved the map by Decree dated March 6, 1892. The Atlas of the Argentine Geographical Institute, according to the Chilian Representative, favours the Continental divortium aquarian, since the frontier followed this line in the partial maps of the provinces, published in or about the year 1885. The Atlas of the Argentine Geographical Institute, published as such by the Society, i.e. the final Atlas, does not contain in the twenty-nine sheets of which it is composed, engraved at different times, a single plate which 2 B 1 86 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. proves the assertion of the Chilian Representative, who, perhaps may have been led into error in presence of some preliminary proofs, which may have existed, but which, if they existed, were cast off. Of the twenty-nine sheet maps, four were published in 1885, and refer to a part of the Province of Buenos Aires, the Province of Entre-Rios, and the Province of Cordoba, which provinces are not contiguous to Chile ; ten were published in 1886, and refer to Buenos Aires, Santa Fe, San Luis, Tucuman, Santiago del Estero, Formosa, Chaeo, Pampa and Rio Negro. Of the afore- mentioned, Rio Negro alone is contiguous to Chile, and the corresponding map (sheet twenty-four) shows the frontier line cutting amongst others, the rivers Puelo and Bodadahue, and rejects, therefore, the continental divide. Eight sheet maps were published in 1889, referring to the City of Buenos Aires, the Provinces of Corrientes, Mendoza, Rioja, Salta, Jujuy, and the National territories of Neuquen, Chubut and Santa Cruz. The provinces of Mendoza, Rioja, Salta and Jujuy are contiguous to Chile, but there is not in any one of them a single river which crosses the Cordillera. In the map of Neuquen the Lake Lacar is marked in Argentine territory, though the waters of this lake go to the Pacific : in the map of Chubut the rivers Palena, Aysen, Huemules, etc. appear cut by the boundary line ; and in the maps of Santa Cruz the watercourses running to the Pacific are not delineated. Three sheet maps were published in 1890 : one refers to Misiones, which is not contiguous to Chile ; the second to Catamarca, where there are no rivers crossing the Andes ; and the third is a general map of the Argentine Republic — in this last map are shown various rivers cut by the boundary line. The sheet map published in 1891 refers to the Province of San Juan, and in this province there are no rivers crossing the Andean Cordillera. The two sheet maps published in 1892, one of South America, the other of the Argentine Republic, depict the watercourses cut by the line of frontiers. The sheet map published in 1893 refers to Ticrra del Fuego, where the boundary agreed upon, viz. a mathematical line, cuts several rivers which the ma]) indicates. The Atlas of the Argentine Geographical Institute, therefore, proves that, from 1886 to 1893, this Society has constantly construed the Treaty of 1881 in accordance with its true sense and literal meaning, and has rejected the line of separation of hydrographical basins, as inconsistent with the frontier agreed upon in the Cordillera de los Andes ami in its highest crests. There is scarcely any need to say that one of the other maps mentioned by the Chilian Representative, namely, that of Doctor Paid Giissfeldt, has not any bearing on the question under discussion. The explorations of this geographer. Erroneous Considerations on Interpretation of the Treaty #/" 1881. 187 as has been said and recognised, comprise the section of the Cordillera de los Andes between parallels 32 and 35, that is to say, a section where the principal and continuous chain of the Andes is not divided by streams which take rise on one or the other side of it. Between the 32nd and 35th degree the Experts of the Argentine Republic and Chile respectively, each applying his own principle, concurred on the marking out of the frontier line. The Chilian Expert therefore considers that the map of Dr. Giissfeldt favours the argument of the continental divide, but the Argentine Expert is firmly convinced that this map has shown the boundary to be the crest of the principal chain. It is clear that the existence of high peaks, which are spoken of and which are situated outside of the main chain, in separate branches, cannot alter this conclusion, since these peaks which rise isolated, or which form part of isolated systems, do not constitute the highest crest as understood by the Convention. Giissfeldt found between parallels 32 and 35 some rivers that crossed the lateral ranges, which were also found by the Argentine Expert, but Dr. Giissfeldt did not find, nor has the Argentine Expert ever found either any river crossing the principal chain in those regions. In such cases, and when there is agreement because the contentions that each part brings forward coincide, it is not possible to say that the map favours either of them, since there is no cause for contention. The map attributed to Dr. Siemiradzki, which is the last cited by the Chilian Representative, has not the importance that has been given to it. Not only is that map not Dr. Siemiradzki's, but that geologist has expressed in his report views diametrically opposed to those attributed to him in the Chilian Statement. ( hi the other hand, though the boundary line is drawn on the map east of Lake Lacar, departing for the purpose from the Cordillera, it has been represented cutting the stream which descends from Mount Chapelco, into the lake ; therefore, the Chilian Statement's reference to that line when bringing it forward trying to adapt it to its argument is worthless in every case. Dr. Siemiradzki having been cited as a scientific authority, it is well to point out that his assertions embody the most clear and categorical recognition of the Argentine rights. In one of his Articles published in Petermann's Mittheilungen, and translated for the Anales de la Universidad de Chile, there is a decisive passage which has been endorsed by the Chilian University by the fact of publishing it without any observation. Dr. Siemiradzki, with the. full knowledge of the orography of the country, as it has been said by the Chilian Representative in the statement read before the Tribunal, says : — 2 b 2 1 88 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. " In Patagonia the Cordillera is low, and particularly the passes of the Cordillera are very low, since the water-parting is, in most cases, situated outside the main Cordillera, ix Argentine Territory." * The Chilian arguments are, therefore, contrary to the Chilian theory. It is not with them that the force derived from the literal meaning of the Convention, explained by its spirit and antecedents, can be opposed ; it is not with these quotations, defective from the start, that it can be asserted that the interpretation of the Covenant of 1881 favours the continental divide, of which no mention was made at any time during the negotiations which preceded the settlement. 2. INTERPRETATION CONSISTENT WITH INTERNATIONAL LAW. The Representative of the Republic of Chile has stated that the line of the divortium aquarum, in the form which he conceives it, " is recommended by inter- national law for the demarcation of boundaries between countries separated by mountains," and quoted, in support of his views, the works of Bluntschli, Fiore, Hall, Calvo and Bello. None of these authors mention, directly or indirectly, the continental divide ; neither do any of them refer to the case of a chain which may be traversed by a watercourse ; in a word, not one of them favours the doctrine of Chile,, though some of them speak of watershed. It is easy to get confused by this word unless carefully considering the matter in detail. For the Chilian Representative it is sufficient that the watershed be mentioned to consider permissible the abandon- ment, without further examination, of the main ridge of a mountain range. This conclusion is so far removed from the mind of the authors referred to, that, if anything can be affirmed respecting them, it is that they openly contradict the Chilian conclusions, and support, in an evident and categorical maimer, those of the Argentine Republic. This can be easily demonstrated. 1. Article 297 of Bluntschli's Codified International Law has been quoted in these terms: — " When two countries are separated by a chain of mountains, it is admitted, where doubt exists, that the main crest and the water-parting line form the boundary.'' It is evident that Bluntschli gives to the term "main crest " the most important place (Varete superieure is given in the French translation), and it would l>c to misrepresent his idea to put this " main crest'" on one side, solely to * Aualcs de la TJniversidad do la Repiibliea de Chile, vol. 85, p. 152. Interpretation Consistent with International Law. 189 take into account the watershed line (Jigne de partage lies eaux). In order to exactly interpret Bluntschli's thought and apply it on the demarcation, it would be necessary first to determine the " highest crest " for the purpose of then tracing thereon, the line dividing the waters belonging to this highest crest. The Argentine Republic claims nothing else than this in the present dispute. This is not a fanciful or capricious interpretation, it is Bluntschli's own. He took upon himself to point out that the watershed line is represented by the highest crest of the chain ; he took upon himself to show that the most lofty summits of the mountains are those which constitute the natural frontiers. Immediately after the Article 297 quoted by the Chilian Representative, and as an explanatory note of its contents, the following paragraph, which has not been quoted in the Statement read by the Chilian Representative, appears: — " The chains of mountains often serve to separate nations. The watershed line is formed by the highest crest of the chain. As the waters descend into the valley and form streams and rivers, so the valley forms the centre of communications between the inhabitants of the surrounding mountains. The nations learnt this at an early date, and have made the summits of the moimtains their natural frontiers." * It is evident that the negotiators of the Treaty of 1881 took Bluntschli into account, inasmuch as all of them have referred to this author when writing 011 this boundary question, and it is evident also that they noted the perfect agree- ment between his views and those of the Chilian statesmen, Alfonso and Walker Martinez. The watershed line of which these gentlemen sometimes thought, is not that of the South American continent, but that " formed by the highest crest of the chain," according to the words of the celebrated jurist. 2. With regard to Fiore, the Chilian Representative quotes him in the following way: — " The distinguished Italian jurist, Pasquale Fiore, says in his Codified International Law, published at Naples, 1890, Article 536 : ' When two States are separated by a chain of mountains . ... in order to determine the frontier between one country and the other the water- parting line shall be followed." The phrase, of itself, is not decisive. Granting, for the sake of argument, that it was textually translated from the original Italian, one is at once inclined to ask : Why should it be assumed that Fiore refers to the continental divide, and not to that of the waters belonging to the main and highest chain ? One would have to suppose that, if the continental water-parting was referred to, * M. Bluntschli, Le Droit International Codifie, translated by M. C. Lardy, 2nd edition, Paris, 1874, p. 181. 190 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. there was a wide difference of opinion with Bluntschli, and to come to such a conclusion, it would be necessary to adduce some reason to justify it, whereas Fiore is not, in general terms, an innovator in International Law. His name is known in the scientific world, but his Diritto Internazionah < 'odijicato is not the work which gave him his chief reputation. Its appearance is comparatively modern, dating from 1890, and, already in 1868, Pradier-Fodere translated into French the first edition of Fiore's Trattato di Diritto Inter- nazionale, which, without doubt, is his principal work. In order to ascertain Fiore's opinions, it is necessary to refer to his two books. In his most important one we find these words, which reject the Chilian thesis in the most complete manner it would be possible to desire. He says : — " The mountains which separate two States constitute the natural boundaries between them. Such mountains are either the common property of the two bordering States, or belong to one or the other. In the first case, when the line which determines the boundary is not defined by Treaty, it should be held that to each one of the two States belongs the extent of the ■mountain on its side up to the culminating point or edge." * Fiore is of opinion that each of the nations separated by mountains extends its sovereignty over all the slope of the chain which looks towards it up to the highest crest, to the upper edge, to the main crest. How is it, then, that he employs a distinct phrase in his Diritto Internazionah ( 'odificato ? How is it that he confines himself therein to stating, as one seems to infer from the tran- scription given by the Chilian Representative, that " in order to determine the frontier between one country and the other the waterparting line shall be followed" ? Has he, by chance, changed his opinion ? Nothing of the sort. The apparent confusion is, however, readily cleared up by saying that in the Statement read by the Chilian Representative before the Tribunal, only a portion of Article 536 has been quoted, leaving out the very passages which complete Fiore's views 011 the subject. In fact, reading the Article in its entirety, without mutilating phrases, without omitting words, one acquires the certainty that Fiore has been consistent with himself and that just as, in one of his books, he expresses a view which contradicts the Chilian doctrine, so likewise in the other which has been referred to, he manifests an idea which equally opposes that doctrine. The Article reads thus: — ' Whenever tiro States may be separated by a mountain chain, axd tue boundary line • Pasajuale Fiore, Trattato di Diritto Internazionale, 2nd edition, Torino, 1882, vol. 2, p. 65, para. 785. Interpretation Consistent with International Law. 191 IS NOT DETERMINED BY TREATY AND FIXED BY VISIBLE MARKS, IT SHOULD BE MAINTAINED THAT TO EACH OF THE TWO STATES BELONGS THE SLOPE OF THE MOUNTAIN SITUATED ON ITS OWN SIDE UP TO THE CULMINATING POINT OR EDGE, AND BEAR IN MIND THE LINE which determines the watershed in order to fix the border of one and the other." * It ensues, therefore, that in the quotation made in the Statement read by the Chilian Representative, there has been suppressed and substituted by the insertion of dots precisely that part in which Fiore teaches that each one of the nations extends its sovereign jurisdiction over all the side or slope of the chain up to its highest crest, and there have only been translated the words which recommend bearing in mind, as a secondary rule, the line which determines the watershed in the " culminating point or edge " and not beyond that part, as the dominion of each state reaches up to there. There is not the slightest doubt that the Italian author does not favour the Chilian interpretation, which, with its theory, seeks to incorporate into her territory the two sides of the Andes, the western (which justly belongs to her) and the eastern, which faces the Argentine side, which gradually descends until it is merged in the Patagonian Pampas, and which should justly belong, and does belong, to the Argentine Republic. 3. Hall truly says : " Where a boundary follows mountains or hills, the water-divide constitutes the frontier " ; but the water-divide he speaks of is that which peculiarly and exclusively belongs to the chain itself, as he commences by stating that the boundary follows mountains or hills. Besides this, Hall does not depart from the opinions sustained by Bluntschli, which have made their way amongst writers on the Law of Nations. On the same page in which the paragraph mentioned by the Chilian Representative is found, Hall puts a note in which he supports the above conclusions respecting boundaries formed by rivers, lakes, etc., and which he sustains by referring to other authors. Among them figures Bluntschli, paragraphs 295-99, and it is in paragraph 297 (footnote) of Bluntschli, that the two phrases already mentioned are read, which dispel all obscurity, if any exist. " The watershed line is formed by the highest crest of the chain The nations learnt this at an early date, and have made the summits of the mountains their natural frontiers.'* 7 4. Similar considerations arise from a perusal of Calvo's paragraph : — " When two States," he says, " are separated by a chain of mountains, the highest crest and the line of the watershed are taken as boundary." * Pasquale Fiore, II Diritto Intern azionale Codificato, 2nd edition, Torino, p. 356, Art. 895. t W. E. Hall, A Treatise on International Law, 1895, p. 127. 192 Divergences in the Cordillera dc los Andes. So that, according to Calvo, it is, in the first place necessary that there should be a chain of mountains; in the second place, that it should follow "the highest crest," and in the third place that the watershed be adopted. If, according to Calvo 's opinion " the highest crest," and " the line of the watershed " were different things, it is evident that he would not have decided that the frontier line should pass over both features. Since he expresses, clearly and categorically, the necessity of taking into account the " highest crest " it is evident that the watershed he refers to must be that which belongs to and is peculiar to that " highest crest " and not that of the lowest crests, nor that of the plains. If this were not so, the paragraph would contain a real misconstruction. Besides, in this point, Calvo followed Bluntschli, whose words he repeats with modifications of detail and without making any substantial change. 5. The Chilian Representive's final quotation is from Don Andres Bello's book, Principios de Derecho Internacional (Principles of International Law), part 1, chapter hi., which he thus translates : — " If the boundary of a State is a Cordillera, the dividing line runs over the highest points of it, passing between the sources of springs that flow down to either side." The translation is incorrect. Bello did not say that the line passes " between the sources of springs" which would be almost equivalent to saying "between the sources of sources," or " between the springs of springs." Nor did Bello mean that the sources of the springs flow down, as it is known that they do not flow down themselves. The last words of the phrase are in the original Spanish "por entre los manantiaks de fas vertientes que descienden al un lado y of the current year, I held my first con- ference with the Chilian Expert, in the International Boundary Office ; and the following is a report of what took place in same, although it was more an exchange of general ideas than a conference of an official character, and I give an account of same because we tried to arrive at a practical formula, for recommencing the work of demarcation which had been suspended when we tried to begin it last year Disagreement of the Experts, Senores Virasoro and Barros Arana. 255 " In this conference, Senor Barros Arana, speaking of the interpretation of Article 1 of the Treaty, stated that the rule of demarcation must be the watershed, considering as such the separation of the Atlantic and the Pacific hydrographic basins ; and he entered into many statements already set forth in his note of January 18 of last 3'ear. "I replied that, without entering into a discussion on the merits of the Treaty, and holding the matters discussed in this conference as a confidential conversation for the pur- pose of exchanging ideas, I considered that the watershed should be sought for, but that it should be circumscribed by the Cordillera de los Andes in general, and by its most elevated crest line, i.e. its principal backbone, in particular. " Sefior Barros Arana said that we should discuss the instructions which we should have to give the assistant engineers for the demarcation, and for that reason we should require to determine clearly the rule they were to follow. " To this I replied that without a complete knowledge of the ground no fixed rules for the demarcation could be given, because we did not know the real state of tilings in the Cordillera and consequently could not frame beforehand such rules. " Senor Barros Arana appears, although not explicitly, to have agreed to this. We then spoke of what was understood by crests that may divide the waters, and I expressed my opinion on the subject ; I added that, as generally happens in other Cordilleras, possibly that of the Andes might present its range of main crests crossed by a watercourse which might be fed by waters flowing down the two opposite slopes of the Cordillera, in which case we should have two facts before us, viz. division of the slopes in the chain of the Cordillera, referred to in the Treaty, and division of the waters in the origins of said watercourse, origins which may be situated not only outside of said chain but also outside of the Cordillera itself. " Sehor Barros Arana replied that in his opinion this case would not occur, and if it did the opportunity would arise for consulting our G-overnments regarding its solution, to which I manifested that the case was already foreseen in the Treaty, as it provided that the Experts must seek in the Cordillera, and within the limit of its main range, the separation of the slopes which descend one side and the other of said range. I added that slopes (vertientes) must not be confounded with watercourses, because the former constitute the descending sides of mountain chains and have their line of intersection on the main rano-e. This crest may be continuous, without interruptions, and it may also be cut by watercourses (and this may be observed in many Cordilleras of the world, and especially in the Himalayas), thus presenting a breach, and still continuing beyond the interruption. The Treaty provides that on said main range we are to seek the intersection of the slopes, i.e. the line where the descending and opposing sides of the mountain come together, or in other words the anticlinal line, the line where the opposite slopes meet on the top of the mountain. " To deviate from that chain in search of a watershed not mentioned in the Treaty, would evidently be departing from the Treaty, since the latter provides the separation of slopes, to be sought within a given and clearly expressed limit. " Senor Barros Arana, explaining the manner in which he construes the Treaty, said that the rivers flowing into the Pacific must be considered as Chilian from their sources, and those disemboguing into the Atlantic as Argentine, also from their sources. 256 Divergences in the Cordillera dc los Andes. " I replied that it was impossible to make affirmations in that sense, because a know- ledge as to whether those rivers belonged in their entire length or only in part to either country could only be acquired from a study of their position with relation to the general slopes of the Cordillera. " Serior Barros A ran a insisted that it was necessary to issue fixed rules of proceeding to the assistants, in accordance with the interpretation of the Treaty; and that it was necessary to do so with the mixed Sub-Commission of assistants in the north " On the following day, January 26, we again met in the same place, alone. Sefior Barros Arana began by stating that he had retired chagrined from the previous meeting because he had gathered from my attitude the certainty that the divergences arisen with Senor Pico would be renewed, as he found that I had manifested opinions respecting the Treaty which were not those to be derived from its clear text. Further, that the latter does not authorise the drawing up of maps, and that he had opposed same when Senor Pico had proposed it, as could be seeu by a written statement which lie read, and which he said had been presented by him to Senor Pico when they discussed this same point. " He added that the assistant engineers should bear fixed rules of proceeding, so as to operate on the ground and carry out the demarcation in accordance with facts and with the terms of the Treaty. " He repeated that, in his opinion, the continental watershed must absolutely constitute the fixed and invariable rule of demarcation ; that this was the clear meaning of the Treaty ; that Chile, based on the Treaty, would never consent to the Argentine Republic possessing ports on the Pacific, as such a pretension was wholly inadmissible. " Sefior Barros Arana concluded by exhibiting to me a map of the southern part of the continent, in which the boundary was marked along parallel 52° up to the river G-allegos, without striking the inlet of Ultima Esperanza, and consequently without reaching the Peninsula of Sarmiento where the Cordillera de los Andes is really situated. He said that the line indicated is the one which Chile considers to be in accordance with the Treaty, and that nothing would make him abandon this conviction except the award of an arbitrator to whose judgment the interpretation of the Treaty would be submitted. " As regards the drawing up of maps, I observed to Sefior Barros Arana that, far from being contrary to the Treaty, they were indispensable for facilitating its faithful execution. 1 reminded him of his divergence with Sefior Pico and the intervention of the Argentine Minister, Sefior Uriburu, citing the note of the latter dated February 27, 1892, addressed to the Minister of Foreign Affairs, in which he relates the circumstances of his intervention and its solution. In said note he says that he had a conference with the Chilian President and his Ministers, 'with the object of re-establishing the agreement between the Argentine and Chilian Experts by the observance of the pro visions of the Boundary Treaty, from which they appear to have departed. We agreed that the Experts were not to engage in abstract discussions, but were to prepare the elements for the purpose of formulating their opinions as to the demarcation on the ground.' "According to the above, and as Sefior Uriburu says in his note, the Experts were not to engage in abstract discussions as to the interpretation of the Treaty, but to place themselves in a position to fix on the ground the line of demarcation entrusted to them, Disagreement of the Experts, Senor es Virasoro and Barros Arana. 257 and also to have, in the case foreseen, recourse to friendly agreements for the solution of the difficulties which might arise " With regard to the statement that according to the Treaty, the line of demarcation in the southern part of the continent should be fixed according to the map referred to, presented by Senor Barros Arana, I manifested that as I did not know the ground, I could affirm nothing on the matter ; that on the west, the Cordillera de los Andes must be the termination of the boundary between the two countries as constituted by parallel 52° S. This boundary must strike the Cordillera, but must not pass its crest line of slopes ; and if in that part the Cordillera were in a peninsula, it might happen that, abiding strictly by the terms of the Treaty, we should have to cross some arm of the sea before reaching the watershed of the Andes. " Senor Barros Arana said that Chile would never accept this arrangement, and expressed his regret that we should not be able to arrive at an agreement, adding that he was most desirous that the demarcation should be effected according to the dictates of harmony and brotherhood which had guided the stipulation of the Treaty of 1881 ; and that this feeling was shared in Chile, was shown by the fact that he, having established and negotiated said stipulations on behalf of Chile, had been appointed as Expert. "I replied that the Argentine Government was inspired by the same sentiments, and that the instructions I had received were in harmony with them. I added that as yet I saw no motive of disagreement ; and that the proceeding proposed by me of obtaining trust- worthy data as a basis of our decisions, showed that I desired to seek a sure solution of the question, and the greatest possible exactitude in the demarcation, in order to provide against an erroneous application of the Treaty, the faithful fulfilment of which is the chief desire of the Argentine Government. " Senor Barros Arana insisted on our not drawing up preliminary maps, and on the necessity of our giving fixed rules to the assistants for limiting their work strictly to the line of separation of the origins of the waters which flow respectively to the Atlantic and to the Pacific, and manifested that he considered expedient that in another meeting we should draw up a Becord setting forth the opinions of both Experts regarding- the proceeding to be followed. " We agreed on this, and I told Senor Barros Arana that as I had to go to the Cordillera to meet the Minister Senor Quirno Costa, who was on his way to Chile as Argentine Envov Extraordinary, on my return I would present my statement. " On January 27, I telegraphed to the Minister of Foreign Affairs an account of what had passed in the previous meetings, informing him that we were about to draw up the Record of the disagreement. " On February 3, Senor Quirno Costa being then in Santiago, I held a fresh meeting with my colleague the Chilian Expert, and according to arrangement I presented the state- ment of what should be inserted on my part in the Record, a statement which had been previously approved by the Argentine Minister, and which I do not transcribe as it would only be a repetition of what had been discussed in the meetings, and had, on the other hand, remained without effect. " Senor Barros Arana replied that in continuation of my statement he would insert his, and with this object he took away the Record, which was already drawn up and headed by my statement. 2 L 258 Divergences in the Cordillera dc los Andes. " Many days elapsed without his informing me of his decision on the matter, until, in the middle of Fehruary, the Argentine Minister intervened in a friendly and confidential manner in order to remove the difficulties and divergences which had arisen." When negotiating with Senor Pico, Senor Barros Arana had declared that the boundary was the central chain of the Andes, in which, according to his opinion, occurred the division of the waters ; but then and afterwards, when negotiating with Senor Virasoro, he refused to arrange for a survey of the ground prior to making the actual demarcation — a survey which could in no wise favour his views respecting the dividing line. He considered such surveys unnecessary when dealing with a delimitation extending over 1500 miles, and in an enormous mass of mountains, a very small portion of which only, and that superficially, was known. It would, in his opinion, suffice, in order to fulfil the provisions of the Treaty, that the assistant surveyors should seek the water-divide, and there erect the boundary marks without further investigation as to whether those points coincided with the provisions of the said Treaty ; but, by proceeding in this manner, territories which belonged to the Argentine Republic according to the Treaty, Avould pass over to Chilian dominion, and it was therefore, not possible to consent to this course. The difficulties and differences referred to by Senor Virasoro were increased very considerably. In 1892, a simple expedient was sufficient to settle the divergences between Senor Pico and Senor Barros Arana. In 1893, its inefficaey once demonstrated, it was clearly understood that another similar expedient did not suffice to put a stop to the conflicts between Senor Virasoro and Senor Barros Arana. For that reason, instead of dealing with the questions in a superficial manner, and instead of postponing to a more favourable occasion the definite solution of the same, it Avas thought advisable to face them immediately without vacillation, fearlessly and with firmness. Though the theory of the continental divide had no foundation, neither in the antecedents, nor in the text, nor in the spirit of the Treaty of 1881 ; though that theory was not openly embraced by the Chilian Government; though it was only the Chilian Expert who expounded it, at the same time forgetting his own previous opinions; the Argentine Government desired, once for all, to avoid ambiguous interpretations and to determine the true, real and sole meaning of the Covenant. This was the origin of the Protocol of May 1, 1893. Moreover, at the time in which this agreement was transacted, the Disagreement of the Experts, Senores Virasoro and Barros Arana. 259 continental divide was not the only obstacle that hindered the execution of the Treaty. There were five points in which the opinions of the Experts differed, viz.: — 1. Whether the divide of Tierra del Fuejro was to be carried out after previously studying the situation of Cape Espiritu Santo — which was the starting-point — or whether, in order to determine it, they were only to follow the indications of geographical maps. 2. Whether the Sub-Commissions were to decide in a definite manner on the placing of the landmarks, or whether their decision was to be merely provisional, they being likewise entrusted with the drawing up of maps, in order that the Experts themselves might with due knowledge make the final determination. 3. Whether the San Francisco landmark was placed in the Cordillera de los Andes as provided by the agreements, or whether it was necessary to remove it after a fresh survey. 4. Whether it was possible, according to the Convention of 1881, that the Argentine Republic should have territory on the shores of the Pacific, or whether Chile was to have exclusive sovereignty over the coast regions of said ocean in the southern part of America. 5. Whether Article 1 of the Treaty of 1881 provided that the boundary line was to follow the continental divide, or whether it established that it should run along the most elevated crests of the main range of the Cordillera that may divide the waters. The first question arose in April 1892, when the Sub-Commissions met in Tierra del Fuego in order to begin the delimitation. There, in the first meeting, Senor Merino Jarpa, chief of the Chilian Sub-Commission, stated that as Cape Espiritu Santo was the starting-point, the latter should be marked in the position indicated in the geographical maps. Senor Virasoro, chief of the Argentine Sub-Commission, maintained that they should begin by finding the situation of the Cape on the ground, by means of the necessary surveys, without following as decisive the indications of the maps. Thus arose the disagreement set forth in the Record of April 16, 1892. In a Decree, dated September 20 of the same year, the Argentine Govern- ment approved the opinion of Senor Virasoro, who, at that time, had already been appointed Expert. This conflict stopped the work in Tierra del Fuego, as it affected the groundwork of the demarcation. The second question arose in February 1892. Senor Pico, as has been seen, 2 l 2 260 Divergences in tlic Cordillera de los Andes. wishing to facilitate the work, and with the object that the Experts might have all the antecedents they required, reserving to them exclusively, as a function to which they were entitled, the final decision in the placing of the landmarks, proposed to his colleague that the assistant Sub-Commissions should draw up the necessary maps. Sefior Barros Arana objected to this, and though the inter- vention of the Argentine Minister settled the difference, it was again renewed on the occasion of Sefior Virasoro's arrival in Chile. This difficulty was of some importance, and prudence dictated that it should be overcome before proceeding with a work, on the extent of which those entrusted with its execution were unable to agree. The third question was the unfortunate outcome of a mistake due to the pre- cipitation of the surveyors. The Argentine and Chilian Sub-Commissions; the respective chiefs of which were Sehores Diaz and Bertrand, placed a provisional landmark in the most central part of the San Francisco Gap. Nevertheless, although the Sub-Commissions were agreed respecting the place, they discussed the reasons and circumstances which had led them to choose it, and in the impossibility of arriving at an understanding, they drew up two separate Records. In consequence of this divergence the matter was submitted to the Argentine Government, and the latter, after hearing the reports of Sefiores Diaz and Virasoro, decided on September 20, 1892, that the Expert should demand from his colleague that the technical operations in the San Francisco Pass or road which crosses the Cordillera from the Argentine to the Chilian region should be revised in order to locate the starting point within said road where the afore- mentioned operations should indicate, and that the work performed in the San Francisco Gap should be set aside if it were found that the said gap was not situated in the central massif. The Chilian Expert resisted this proceeding. He maintained that the landmark was already fixed, and had been located in strict accordance with their instructions, for which reason the operation should be considered as definite. Public opinion in both countries became agitated owing to the writings of the press, and the difficulty assumed a serious aspect. The fourth question stirred the Chilian nation deeply. The negotiator of the Treaty of 1881, when defending its clauses before the Argentine Congress, stated, as his belief, that the Republic would be entitled to territory washed by the Pacific, and quoted in support of his opinion that of Sefior Moreno, who had expressed it in the following terms : — Disagreement of the Experts, Sen ores Virasoro and Barros Arana. 261 " The Treaty which specifies the 52° for the southern boundary of Argentine territory, and the Cordillera de los Andes for the western, allows of our having ports in the waters of the Pacific." - In this hypothesis, the Convention was approved, but some time after this fact there arose in Chile a sound of alarm and protest which attracted attention, and found vent in official communications. The Expert, Senor Barros Arana, on January 18, 1892, said: — " I have no hesitation in declaring that this pretended demarcation is a geographical chimera, upheld, it is true, in writings and maps of recent date, to which I cannot concede the slightest authority nor any serious purpose. Neither can I concede it to another geographical chimera upheld in the same writings and in the same maps. I refer to the pretended Argentine ports on the Pacific, which, in opposition to the spirit and letter of the Treaty, would interrupt and break the continuity of Chilian territory. On this subject, maps have been made and re-made, their authors taking much useless trouble over a task which, like the geographical question they wish to raise, will never lead to any practical result." The Argentine Expert, Senor Pico, entertained a contrary opinion. In the Memorandum of February 26, presented to his Government, he replied to his colleague's statements as follows : — " In my opinion, there is no motive for that display of rhetoric launched against the pretended Argentine ports on the Pacific. If at any time, on applying the clauses of the Treaty to the ground, it should result that the Argentine Republic had a right to ports on the Pacific, we shall have them." The divergence on this subject had become still wider when the negotiations began for the Protocol of 1893. The fifth question was that which created the greatest stir and the widest echo. It referred to the very interpretation of the Treaty of 1881, in its substantial part, in its Article 1, in the clause destined to lay down the rule for the tracing of the frontier line. It has already been seen how it originated, and what was the importance attributed to it by the Argentine Government. 262 Divergences in tJie Cordillera dc los Andes. 5. VARIOUS QUESTIONS SETTLED BY THE PROTOCOL OF 1893. The five questions enunciated, some of them fundamental, and others of an incidental character, hampered the work of demarcation, and created a state of uncertainty in both Republics. Under these difficult circumstances, the Govern- ments, guided by a common desire to secure peace and brotherhood, calmlv studied each of the questions which had arisen, and arranged them all by means of mutual concessions. In the city of Santiago, on May 1, 1893, Don Norberto Quirno Costa, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary of the Argentine Republic, and Don Isidoro Errazuriz, in his character of Plenipotentiary ad hoc, having met, they adjusted the clauses of the Agreement — as can be seen in its text — "after having considered the present state of the work of the Experts entrusted with t lie demarcation of the boundary between the Argentine Eepublic and Chile, in accord- ance with the Boundary Treaty of 1881, and animated by the desire of removing the difficulties which have embarrassed or might embarrass them in the fulfilment of their Commission, and of establishing between both States a complete and cordial understanding in harmony with the antecedents of brotherhood and glory common to both, and with the ardent wishes of public opinion on either side of the Andes." It would be childish to pretend that such elevated concrete phrases are mere literary figures. When the Representatives of two contending nations solemnly declare in a public document that they have considered " the present state " of the controversy ; when they declare that they have endeavoured " to remove difficulties " ; only a spirit influenced by doctrinal prejudices can maintain that the " present state " of the controversy had not been taken into account, and that nobody had endeavoured to " remove the difficulties." As mere conjecture, the possibility of an omission through forgetfulness might be admitted, but such forgetfulness is unlikely in diplomatic negotiations when treating questions of vital importance, questions which have been the principal cause of the Covenants, and which have given rise to the conferences. Seriores Quirno Costa and Errazuriz might have forgotten insignificant details of the difficulties encountered by the Experts, but it is not conceivable that they should overlook those which formed an unsurmountable hindrance to their great desire for peace and brotherhood. If they had been silent on the subject of any one of' the five controversies Various Questions Settled by the Protocol of 1893. 263 which arose during the course of the work, the phrases which form the beginning of the Treaty in no way could be explained, because those controversies were well known, and had been freely discussed in public, mainly the first and the last question, which attracted special attention. In order to demarcate the frontier line in Tierra del Fuego, which is a geographical co-ordinate — the straight line which, starting from Cape Espiritu Santo, extends due south- — it was unavoidably necessary to agree upon the exact starting point ; in order to demarcate the Cordillera from the extreme north down to parallel of latitude 52° S., it was likewise unavoidably necessary to define the correct interpretation of the Treaty of 1881. If either of these points had been passed over in silence, the hindrance which existed for tracing the boundary, both in Tierra del Fuego and in the Cordillera cle los Andes, would have still remained. Common sense rejects the idea of such omissions. On the contrary, the most elementary rules of logic and the dictates of reason impose the following conclusion, which must be accepted, viz. that with the Treaty of 1893 the preceding divergences came to an end, since the Eepresentatives of both countries met in order to settle them, and immediately afterwards stated that they had settled them all. The exegesis of the Treaty of 1893 permits us to add further considerations which corroborate those which precede. Its letter, clear and conclusive, demon- strates to an impartial examiner, that all the questions which had divided the opinions of the Experts had been arranged. The first question was settled by Article 4, which provides as follows : — " The demarcation of Tierra del Fuego shall commence simultaneously with that ot" the Cordillera, and shall start from the point called Cape Espiritu Santo. At that point, visihle from the sea, there are three heights of hills of medium elevation, of which the central or intermediary one, which is the highest, shall he taken as point of departure, and on its summit shall be placed the first landmark of the line of demarcation, which shall continue towards the south in the direction of the meridian." Consequently, it was impossible, later on, to go back on this point. The second question, relating to the faculties of the assistants and the drawing up of maps, was resolved by Articles 3, 5, (>, 7 and 9, which establish rules of proceeding for the Commissions, and provide that they should collect all the necessary data in order to trace on maps of common accord, and with the greatest possible exactness, the boundary line which they should demarcate on the ground. 264 Divergences in the Cordillera de los Andes. Tlie third question, which referred to the San Francisco landmark, was arranged in the following form, set forth in Article 8 : — "The Argentine Expert having manifested that in order to sign, with full knowledge of the matter, the Eecord of April 15, 1802, by which a mixed Chilian-Argentine Commis- sion fixed on the ground the point of departure of the demarcation of boundaries in the Cordillera de los Andes, he considered it indispensable to make a fresh reconnaissance of the locality in order to verify or rectify said operation, adding that this reconnaissance would not delay the progress of the work, which could be simultaneously continued by another Sub-Commission, and the Chilian Expert, having on his part manifested that, although lie believed that the operation had been carried out in strict conformity with the Treaty, he had no objection to acquiesce in the wishes of his colleague, as a proof of the cordiality with which this work was being performed, the undersigned have agreed that a revision be made of what had been done, and that in the event of errors being found, the landmark shall be transferred to the point in which it should have been fixed according to the terms of the Boundary Treaty." The fourth question, which so deeply affected the press and opinion in Chile —that which referred to the possibility of the existence of Argentine access to Pacific waters — was arranged by means of the compromise indicated in the second Article, the text of which, in the first part at least, seems to have been somewhat neglected by Chilian writers, notwithstanding its undoubted capital importance for the right interpretation of the Treaty. As regards the Pacific territories, it would perhaps suffice to quote the final part, but it is necessary to read the whole Article if one wishes to find the scope and signification of the Convention of 1893 in all its projections. It may be said in synthesis, that as a result of the compromise mentioned in the Article, the Argentine Republic waived its eventual rights to the access to the Pacific, provided that the idea was abandoned of altering the boundary agreed upon, by removing it from tire elevated crests of the Cordillera, and placing it along the sources of the rivers, subject to manifold changes : — "If in the peninsular part of the south" — says the latter part of the Article — "on nearing parallel 52° S. the Cordillera should be found penetrating into the channels of the Pacific, there existing, the Experts shall undertake the study of the ground in order to fix a boundary line leaving to Chile the coasts of said channels ; in consideration of which study, both Governments shall determine said line amicably." ■ 'The fifth question was also settled by the Convention of 1893. Owing to its paramount importance, it will be dealt with in the next chapter. Is it, forsooth, possible that the fifth and last question, the most salient, and that which most Various Questions Settled by the Protocol of 1893. 265 hindered the execution of the work could have been omitted? What would have been the object of such an omission? The statesmen who with their signatures authorised the clauses of the Agreement, the Governments which assented to them, and the Congresses which sanctioned them, were cognisant of the controversy about the division of the waters, in its innermost details, and could not have forgotten it during the protracted proceedings connected with the Protocol. It would be denying the truth of the evidence itself to say that, notwith- standing the explicit phrases that precede the Protocol of 1893, its authors set aside the vital question which gave rise to the diplomatic proceedings in order to arrange only the others of minor importance, which, however worthy of attention, are insignificant when compared with those pertaining to the continental divortium flumin is. The fifth question was thus rightly solved by adhering to the text of the Treaty of 1881, but at the same time clearing away all the doubts with which the Chilian Expert sought to envelope it by his note of January 18, 1892. 2 M 266 Divergences in tJie Cordillera cie los Andes. CHAPTER X. Summary — 1. Erroneous Interpretation of the Protocol of 1893. 2. The Opinion of Some Newspapers. 3. The Spirit of the Boundary Treaty declared by the Protocol. 4. Parts of Rivers. 5. Article 6 of the Protocol. 6. Negotiations of the Protocol of 1893. 1. ERRONEOUS INTERPRETATION OF THE PROTOCOL OF 1893. In the Statement read before this Tribunal, the Chilian Representative ac- knowledged that the disagreement between the Experts regarding the interpre- tation of Article 1 of the Treaty of 1881, "was, in part, the origin of the negotiation of 1893 which led to the drawing up of the Protocol of May 1 of that year"; but without studying the details of the negotiations, the importance of which will soon appear manifest, he considers that the Protocol was restricted, in regard to this point, to sanctioning the rule of the continental water-divide. In order to draw this conclusion he adduces as proofs : — 1. That Article 1 provides that the precept contained in the Treaty of 1881 shall be taken as an invariable rule by the Experts and by the Sub-Commissions of assistants. In the part quoted the wording is : — " Whereas Article 1 of the Treaty of July 23, 1881, provides that ' the boundary between Chile and the Argentine Republic from north to south as far as parallel of lat. 52 L S. is the Cordillera de los Andes,' and that ' the frontier line shall run along the most elevated crests of said Cordillera that may divide the waters, and shall pass bet.\veen the slopes which descend one side and the other,' the Experts and the Sub-Commissions shall observe this principle as an invariable rule of their proceedings." 2. That " the water-divide is the geographical condition of the demarcation," as stipulated by Article 3 ; and i!. That by Article 7, " in intrusting the Experts or demarcating engineers with the formation of a map upon which they could trace the boundary line fixed by them on the land, they are recommended to mark upon it the origin of the Erroneous Interpretation of the Protocol of 1893. 267 streams that flow clown to one side and the other of the boundary line, the high peaks that rise there, as well as other geographical features, which, ' although not precisely necessary for the demarcation of the boundary, may be easily located on the ground as references for its ubication.' These recommendations," adds the Representative of Chile, " clearly show that the negotiators understood that in the demarcation they were not to cut streams nor make the boundary line pass over summits or peaks which do not divide the waters." These arguments are in some parts unfounded, and in others they justify an opposite conclusion. The clause which ordains that the Experts and Sub-Commissions shall keep to the text of Article 1 of the Treaty of 1881 as the invariable rule in their procedure, neither modifies nor amplifies its wording, but simply reproduces its context. The interpretation of the clause, therefore, depends on the interpretation given to the precept which it transcribes. If the Chilian Representative understands that when it says, " that the boundary is the Cordillera de los Andes," we are to conclude that the Cordillera is accessory and secondary, and that the continental divide is the principal ; if he understands that when it is ordained that the most elevated crests shall be followed, the precept is complied with by following crests of any height ; the Argentine Republic might, with still greater reason, say that as the Protocol of 1893 insists on fixing the boundary in the Cordillera de los Andes, the Experts shall observe this principle as an invariable rule of their proceedings ; and as the Protocol provides that the line must run along " the most elevated crests that may divide the waters," the Experts, in like manner, shall observe this principle as an invariable rule of their proceedings. In this way, at any rate, the Article is maintained in all its integrity without any need for altering it in order to make its disjointed wording harmonize with theories which have no basis either in its antecedents or in its spirit. Moreover, the Argentine interpretation is supported by the facts that gave rise to the clauses in the Protocol, which doubtless is intended for some practical purpose. It is impossible to suppose that the negotiators in 1893 would repeat the transcribed part of the Treaty of 1881 without any purpose. Reason and common sense would suggest that previous to the Protocol some difficulty existed in the way of accepting the validity of that rule in the form in which it is expressed, and that for the purpose of preventing any similar further 2 M 2 268 Divergences in the Cordillera dc los Andes. obstacle arising, it was thought prudent to again restore its validity. Such in fact is the case. From the references above quoted, it is clear that the Argentine Expert, Senor Pico, suggested to his colleague, Seuor Barros Arana, that the text ot Article 1 of the Covenant of 1881 should be furnished by way of instructions to the Auxiliary Sub-Commissions. It is also clear that the Chilian Expert began by pointing out the necessity for interpreting the text, and that lastly he did not think it appropriate to transcribe the Article without some comment, which, finally, would tend to alter it so as to make it accord with the views as to the continental divide. No Argentine Expert ever objected to apply Article 1 of the Treaty of 1881 ; no Argentine Expert ever feared that its interpretation would be doubtful, or would place obstacles in the way. All thought it explicit, inasmuch as it provided that the boundary line should be drawn over the most elevated crests of the Andes. It was the Chilian Expert who, probably not rinding Article 1 quite in accordance with the new doctrine of the continental divide, sought for the addition of phrases and views, and did so with such persistence, that he thereby gave occasion to the first divergences between the Experts. It is not surprising then, that the negotiators of 1893 should begin by saying : — " Whereas Article 1 of the Treaty of July 23, 1881, provides that ' the boundary between Chile and the Argentine Republic from north to south as far as parallel of lat. 52° 8. is the ( 'ordillera de los Andes,' aud that ' the frontier line shall run along the most elevated crests <>f said Cordillera that may divide the waters, and shall pass between the slopes which descend one side and the other,' the Experts and the Sub-Commissions shall observe this principle as an invariable rule of their proceedings." This first part of Article 1 of the Protocol of 18D3 perhaps completes and makes clear the first part of Article 1 of the Treaty of 1881, for by placing between inverted commas the text of the said Article, and adding the words " and that," thus dividing the sentence, it is clearly determined that the principle to be followed by Experts and the Sub-Commission in the demarcation is that which declares the Cordillera de los Andes to be the boundary between the two nations. Therefore, the clause proves that the theory of the continental divide had made no headway. Taken with its antecedents, it gave support to the views of Senor Pico, which, as Ave have seen, were in agreement with the Treaty of 1881. Erroneous Interpretation of the Protocol of 1893. 269 It is to the second argument that the Chilian Eepresentative attributes more consistency. The water-divide, it is said, is the geographical condition of the demarcation, according to Article 3 of the Protocol. Although it suffices to read the precept to he convinced that it in no way contradicts the categorical clauses of the Treaty, which, as will be seen, repudiate the doctrine unfolded by the Chilian Expert in his note of January 18, 1892, nevertheless it is well to say a few words respecting the same. The provision runs as follows : — " In the case Foreseen in the second part of the first Article of the Treaty of 1881, where difficulties might arise ' from the existence of certain valleys formed by the bifurca- tion of the Cordillera, and in which the watershed may not be apparent,' the Experts shall endeavour to settle them amicably, seeing that a search be made on the ground for this geographical condition of the demarcation. For that purpose, of joint accord, they shall draw up with the assistant engineers a map which may help them to solve the difficulties." To begin with, it may be affirmed that the clause does not lay down a general rule applicable to the entire extent of the frontier, but that it refers specially to an isolated and particular case, viz. that of the existence of valleys formed by the bifurcation of the Cordillera. Besides, the Article does not provide that the division of waters is to be the only geographical condition of the demarcation ; it merely says that it is