. 
 
 . 
 
 
 - 
 
 WF 
 
 
LIBRARY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. 
 
 GIFT OF" 
 
 X7 
 
 Received 
 Accession No. 
 
 Class 
 
3. P. AVERY, 
 4 EAST 38TH STREET. 
 
CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 

 
fed 
 
 sg 
 
CENTJRAL ROUTE 
 
 TO THK 
 
 PACIFIC, 
 
 VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI TO CALIFORNIA; 
 
 JOURNAL OF THE EXPEDITION 
 
 E. F. BEALE, SUPERINTENDENT OF INDIAN AFFAIRS IN 
 CALIFORNIA, AND GWINN HARRIS HEAP, 
 
 MISSOURI TO CALIFORNIA, IN 1853. 
 
 BY 
 
 GWINN HARRIS HEAP. 
 
 UFI7BRSII7 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: 
 LIPPINCOTT, GRAMBO, AND CO. 
 
 1854. 
 
Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1853, by 
 LIPPINCOTT, GRAMBO, AND CO., 
 
 in the Office of the Clerk of the District Court of the United States in and 
 for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: 
 T. K. AND P. G. COLLINS, PRINTEKS. 
 
Bancroft Library 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PA68 
 
 JOURNEY FROM WESTPORT TO THE MOUTH OF HUERFAKO RIVER ... 13 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 ROUTE FROM HUERFANO RIVER TO THE COOCHATOPE PASS . _ . . . 28 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 FROM COOCHATOPE PASS TO GRAKD RIVER. LOSSES ox GRAND RIVER . 38 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 JOURNEY OF MR. HEAP TO NEW MEXICO, AND BACK. MR. BEALE'S SEPA 
 RATE JOURNAL 52 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 JOURNEY TO THE MORMON SETTLEMENTS NEAR LAS VEGAS DK SANTA CLARA 71 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 ' DEPARTURE FROM LAS VEGAS DE SANTA CLARA. PASSAGE OF THE DESERT. 
 
 ARRIVAL AT Los ANGELES, CAL. . . . - . . .98 
 
 RSUM OF THE CENTRAL ROUTE FROM WESTPORT, Mo., TO Los ANGELES, 
 CAL. ....... 113 
 
 ITINERARY OF THE CENTRAL ROUTE 119 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 LETTERS FROM MR. CHAS. W. MCCLANAHAN, AND MR. R. S. WOOTTON 123, 125 
 CAMELS, AS A SUBSTITUTE FOR HORSES, MULES, ETC. .... 128 
 
LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 PACE 
 
 PLATE I. RAFTING ACROSS GRAND RIVER. Opposite title-page. 
 
 PLATK II. SPANISH PEAKS . .. .;.,... . . 27 
 
 PLATE III. HUERFANO CANON . . . .' . . . . 28 
 
 PLATE IV. HUERFANO BUTTB '. . . .' . . . . 29 
 
 PLATE V. FIRST CAMP IN THE MOUNTAINS . . . . . .30 
 
 PLATE VI. ENTRANCE OF SAHWATCH VALLEY 37 
 
 PLATE VII. SCENERY IN SAHWATCH VALLEY 87 
 
 PLATE VIII. COOCHATOPE GATE 37 
 
 PLATE IX. COOCHATOPE PASS . 39 
 
 PLATE X. Rio DB LA LAGUNA . .41 
 
 PLATE XI. CROSSING LAGUNA CREEK . 42 
 
 PLATE XII. GRAND RIVER ... . . . .^ .46 
 
 PLATE XIII. GREEN RIVEB 83 
 
-wv f rj<xjO 
 ' HO <u_* C 
 
 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 INTKODUCTOKY. 
 
 Ox the third day of March, 1853, Congress passed a law ap 
 propriating $250,000 for the purpose of carrying into effect a 
 plan which E. F. Beale, Superintendent of Indian Affairs for 
 the State of California, had proposed for the better protection, 
 subsistence, and colonization of the Indian tribes within his 
 superintendency. \ 
 
 The President having given his approval to this plan, Mr. 
 Beale was instructed to proceed forthwith, by the shortest route, 
 to his superintendency, and to select lands most suitable for 
 Indian reservations. He was also directed, in connection with 
 this plan, to examine the Territories of New Mexico and Utah, 
 where their frontiers and those of California lie contiguous, and 
 to ascertain whether lands existed there to which the California 
 Indians might, with advantage, be removed. 
 
 Mr. Bcale having, in a few days, collected a small party, and 
 my duties calling me at this time to California, I gladly availed 
 myself of his invitation to join the expedition, which promised 
 to be replete with interest, not only because he proposed tra 
 versing a large tract of unexplored country, but also from its < 
 being one of the routes in contemplation for a railway from the 
 Valley of the Mississippi to our Pacific possessions. 
 
 In the journal now offered to the public, I have endeavored to 
 give a correct representation of the country which we traversed ; 
 and, although I do not pretend to do justice to the subject, I 
 trust that these notes will not be altogether without value, par 
 ticularly it a time when the public mind is engrossed with a 
 2 
 
10 CENTEAL KOTJTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 subject of such stupendous magnitude as the establishment of 
 a trans-continental railway. It was a source of frequent regret 
 to us, that circumstances which it is not necessary to explain 
 here, had put it out of our power to provide instruments for 
 a more scientific survey of this route ; and I have, therefore, 
 avoided to state anything, even in the form of a surmise, the 
 correctness of which could only be ascertained by instrumental 
 survey. It is often difficult to determine heights and grades 
 with perfect accuracy, even with the assistance of instruments ; 
 random assertions, made upon mere supposition, would, there 
 fore, be entirely without value. The information I claim to 
 give is such only as I believe will be found reliable and useful, 
 particularly to emigrants ; to them, any new light thrown upon 
 the geography of the interior of our continent, cannot fail to be 
 interesting, and they will find this journal a faithful delineation 
 of the country through which our route led us. 
 
 In regard to' the map accompanying this book, I wish to 
 state that the portion which differs from any hitherto published, 
 is the section embraced between the mouth of Huerfano Eiver, 
 in west long. 103 20', and Little Salt Lake, in west long. 113. 
 No survey has been published of this region, and all informa 
 tion regarding it has heretofore been derived exclusively from 
 the reports of trappers and Indian traders. Without claiming 
 for it any extraordinary degree of accuracy, it will be found, I 
 hope, much more correct and reliable than any map hitherto 
 published. Almost hourly notes, with the constant use of the 
 compass, and a correct estimate of distances, were, in the ab 
 sence of instruments, my means of delineating the topography 
 of the country which we traversed. The other portions of the 
 map are copied from the best and latest surveys. 
 
 The route selected by Mr. Beale was, in conformity with his 
 instructions, the shortest and most direct to California ; and it 
 also enabled him to examine, with the least delay, the localities 
 to which it was believed that the Indians of California might 
 be removed with advantage to themselves, should suitable 
 lands for the purpose be found. 
 
 The following is a synopsis of the route he designed taking : 
 
 The starting-point was Westport, in Missouri ; from thence, 
 leaving the Eiver Kanzas on our right, we were to proceed to 
 Fort Atkinson on the Arkansas, crossing the head- waters of 
 
INTRODUCTORY. 11 
 
 the Osage and Neosho. From Fort Atkinson, our course 
 was up the left bank of the Arkansas, as far as the Eiver 
 Huerfano, which joins the Arkansas about forty-five miles 
 above Bent's Fort; thence up the Huerfano to the Sangre 
 de Cristo Mountains, and through them to Fort Massachusetts 
 on Utah Creek, in the north of New Mexico. After leaving 
 Fort Massachusetts, we were to proceed up the valley of San 
 Luis, lying between the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and the 
 Sierra Mojada on the east, the Sierras Blanca and Sah watch 
 on the north, and the Sierra de San Juan on the west. Up 
 this valley to the Sahwatch Valley, through the Coochatope 
 Pass in the Sahwatch Mountains, and down the Eiver Uncom- 
 pagre to the Grand Eiver Fork of the Great Colorado, in Utah 
 Territory. Thence across the Eiver Avonkaria and the Green 
 Eiver Fork of the Colorado, through the Wahsatch Mountains 
 to the Mormon settlements near Little Salt Lake and the Ve- 
 gas de Santa Clara. From this point we would travel on the 
 old Spanish trail leading from Abiquiu, across the desert, to 
 the Eiver Mohaveh, where we intended to leave it, and enter 
 into the Tulare Valley in California, through Walker's Pass, 
 in the Sierra Nevada. 
 
 We left Washington on the 20th of April, and arrived at 
 St. Louis the 2d, Kanzas the 5th, and Westport the 6th of May. 
 
 Westport is a thriving place, situated four miles from Kan 
 zas; and emigrants from Missouri to California and Oregon 
 make either this place or Independence their starting-point. 
 At both towns all necessary supplies can be obtained at reason 
 able rates, and their merchants and mechanics being constantly 
 required to supply the wants of travellers on the plains, keep 
 on hand such articles as are best adapted for an overland jour 
 ney. Kanzas, a newer place, is also thriving, and a fine river- 
 landing. At Westport, I had the pleasure of meeting with a 
 very courteous gentleman, Count Cypriani, ex-governor of 
 Leghorn. He was preparing for an expedition to California, 
 via Fort Laramie, the South Pass, Great Salt Lake, and Car 
 son's Valley. His party consisted of eleven persons of educa 
 tion and science, and an escort of mountain men ; and his outfit 
 was in every respect well appointed and complete. If the ob 
 servations of this accomplished gentleman should be given to 
 
12 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 the public, they will be a valuable addition to the scanty know 
 ledge we possess of the interior of our country. He has had 
 much experience as a traveller, having already visited the 
 greater portion of both the continents of the western hemi 
 sphere, as well as those of Europe, Asia, and Africa. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 JOURNEY FROM WESTPORT TO THE RIVER HUERFANO. 
 
 OUR party was composed of twelve persons, viz : 
 
 E. F. BEALE, Superintendent of Indian Affairs in California. 
 
 G. HARRIS HEAP. 
 
 ELISHA EIGGS, of Washington. 
 
 WILLIAM RIGGS, " 
 
 WILLIAM ROGERS, 
 
 HENRY YOUNG. 
 
 J. WAGNER. 
 
 J. COSGROVE. 
 
 RICHARD BROWN (a Delaware Indian). 
 
 GREGORIO MADRID (a Mexican). 
 
 JESUS GARCIA, " 
 
 GEORGE SIMMS (colored man). 
 
 May 10, 1853. The train started from Westport in the 
 afternoon, with directions to proceed to Council Grove, and 
 await our arrival there. Mr. Beale accompanied it a few miles 
 into the prairie, and returned after dark. 
 
 With a view to making a rapid trip, we had dispensed with 
 everything that was not absolutely necessary for our wants; 
 and our outfit, therefore, was of the simplest description. 
 
 May 15. All our arrangements being completed, we started 
 from Westport at 3 P. M. A party of ladies and gentlemen 
 accompanied us a few miles into the prairie, and drank a 
 " stirrup cup" of champagne to the success of our journey. The 
 weather was bright and clear, and, after a pleasant ride of 
 twelve miles over prairies enamelled with flowers, we encamped 
 at thirty minutes after six P. M. on Indian Creek, a tributary 
 of the Kanzas, fringed with a thick growth of cottonwoods 
 and willows. Day's march, 12 miles. 
 
14 CENTKAL EOUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 - May 16. Moved camp at 5 A. M. The morning was cloudy. 
 George Simms, who superintended the culinary department, 
 procured milk from a neighboring Caw Indian's hut, which, 
 with dried buffalo tongue, enabled us to make a hearty break 
 fast. An excellent and well-beaten road, as broad and smooth 
 as a turnpike, led us through a green rolling prairie. Although 
 we saw many prairie hens and plovers, we were too impatient 
 to overtake our train to waste time in shooting them. Arrived 
 at 9 hours 30 min. A. M. at Bull Creek, twenty-three miles, 
 where we found two log-huts, good water and grass, and some 
 cottonwood and willow trees. 
 
 After a short rest, we continued on to Garfish Camp, twenty- 
 two miles, over a rolling prairie, covered with rich herbage 
 but noticed little timber. Passed many water-holes. The 
 weather was cool, with a pleasant southerly wind. Around 
 our encampment the grass was knee-high, but no wood was 
 found nearer than half a mile; a few dry bushes, eked out with 
 " buffalo chips," sufficed to prepare our supper. The Santa Fe 
 mail stage was stopping here when we arrived, and proceeded 
 on its way to Independence shortly after. Day's march, 45 
 miles ; total distance from "Westport, 57 miles. 
 
 May 17. The morning was ushered in with the wind from 
 the southward, ladened with heavy clouds, and accompanied by 
 occasional showers of rain. Mr. Beale went in search of a mule, 
 which had drawn her picket-pins in the night, and taken the 
 "back track" towards Westport; but, after a ride of seven 
 miles he was compelled to relinquish the pursuit. Numerous 
 prairie wolves surrounded the camp all night. Arrived at 
 " One Hundred and Ten" at 45 minutes after 10 A. M. The 
 wind veered to southeast, still accompanied by rain, and the 
 weather was cold and unpleasant. " One Hundred and Ten" is 
 so named from its being at that distance from Fort Leaven- 
 worth. This hamlet is composed of a few log-houses situated 
 in a hollow, near a small stream shaded by cottonwoods. The 
 inhabitants are Shawnees, but at this time nearly all the men 
 were absent; the women appeared neat and respectable. Prairie 
 hens and plovers were numerous ; but we were still too near 
 the settlements for nobler game. Continued our route at 
 1 P. M.; the road still led over a beautiful rolling country, the 
 grass good, and occasional pools of water. At 4 P. M. encamped 
 
FROM WESTPORT TO THE HUERFANO. 15 
 
 at Dragoon Creek, after a ride of twelve miles. It is a small 
 brook, well shaded by cottonwoods and oaks, and grass grows 
 luxuriantly on its banks. A few Caw Indians at this place 
 came into our camp hoping to exchange horses with us, and 
 were quite disappointed at our refusal to trade. They were 
 fine-looking men, well proportioned, and athletic. The chief, 
 whose portrait I offered to sketch, seemed delighted with the 
 idea, and hastened to his camp for his rifle, which he was more 
 anxious to have correctly represented than himself. He pre 
 sented us a paper with a very complacent air, evidently think 
 ing that it contained strong recommendations of his tribe, and 
 himself in particular. It was written by some mischievous 
 emigrant, who advised all travellers to beware of this great 
 chief, who was none other than a great rascal, and great beggar. 
 We did not undeceive him as to its contents, and he left us, 
 seeming perfectly satisfied with the impression he had created. 
 Day's travel, 35 miles; distance from Westport, 92 miles. 
 
 May 18. We had a severe thunder and rain storm, which 
 lasted all night ; the wind blew strong from the southward, and 
 the lightning was incessant and vivid. One of those balls of 
 fire which sometimes descend to the earth during violent thun 
 derstorms, fell and exploded in our midst. The mules, already 
 terrified by the constant peals of thunder, became frantic with 
 fear ; and when this vivid light was seen, accompanied with a 
 report like the crack of a rifle, neither picket-pins nor hobbles 
 could hold them ; they rushed through the camp overturning 
 everything in their course their ropes and halters lashing right 
 and left, and increasing their panic. They were stopped by an 
 elbow of the creek, where they were found a few minutes after, 
 huddled together, and quivering with fear. It was fortunate 
 for us that they did not take to the open prairie, as we would 
 have had much difficulty in recovering them. This was our 
 first experience in a stampede, and to prevent a recurrence of 
 such accidents we after this placed the animals in the centre, 
 and, dividing our party into twos and threes, slept in a circle 
 around them. By using such precautions we were never sub 
 jected to this annoyance again, except once, after entering the 
 country of the Utahs. At dawn, the wind veered to the west 
 ward, and blew very cold. Before sunrise, we resumed our 
 journey, and in twelve miles crossed a fine clear stream, and in 
 
16 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 fourteen miles reached another. A ride of twenty -five miles 
 brought us to a hollow, where, finding good water, we encamped. 
 Eesting but a short time we continued our journey, and in ten 
 miles, over a rich rolling country, arrived at Council Grove, 
 where our train was waiting for us. 
 
 Council Grove is situated in a rich grassy bottom, well water 
 ed, and heavily timbered. It is a settlement of about twenty 
 frame and log houses, and scattered up and down the stream 
 are several Indian villages. At a short distance from the road 
 is. a large and substantially built Methodist mission-house, 
 constructed of limestone, which is found here in inexhaustible 
 quantities. This stone is excellent as a building material, and 
 lies in strata of from six inches to three feet in thickness : 
 lintels and arches are made of it as it is extracted from the 
 quarries, which extend for fifteen miles up the stream. Day's 
 march, 32 miles ; total distance, 122 miles. 
 
 May 19. "We now considered ourselves fairly embarked on 
 our journey, for until leaving Council Grove we felt as if we 
 were still within the boundaries of civilization. Even the huts 
 which we passed occasionally on the road, though inhabited 
 only by Indians, removed that sense of utter loneliness which 
 impresses the traveller upon the boundless prairie. Mr. Beale 
 had selected only such men as were inured by long habit to 
 the privations and hardships which we expected to encounter. 
 One, the Delaware, was an experienced hunter, and to his un 
 erring rifle we owed, during the journey, many abundant re 
 pasts, when otherwise we would have been upon short allowance. 
 
 While at Council Grove, we had some mules shod, and the 
 provisions that had been consumed on the journey from West- 
 port, were replaced. The animals having been -well packed, 
 and our arms and ammunition inspected, we bid adieu to Coun 
 cil Grove in the morning, and after a pleasant ride of seventeen 
 miles encamped near water in a hollow on the roadside. The 
 weather was fine, a cool breeze refreshing the air. Some prairie 
 hens, ducks, and plovers were shot. In the ' afternoon, after 
 travelling fifteen miles, we encamped near the " Lost Spring." 
 The grass along the road, was good, and we passed several 
 pools which probably dry up in midsummer. 
 
 Since our departure from Westport we had seen many graves 
 on each side of the road, and some of the camping-places had 
 
FROM WESTPORT TO THE HUERFAXO. 17 
 
 the appearance of village graveyards. The cholera raged on 
 the plains a few years ago, occasioning a fearful mortality, 
 and these mounds remain to attest its ravages. Through care 
 lessness or haste, they were often too shallow to protect their 
 contents from the wolves, and it frequently happened that he 
 who in the morning was hastening forward in health and spirits 
 towards the golden bourn, was ere night a mangled corpse, his 
 bones scattered, by the savage hunger of the wolf, over the plain. 
 
 It was now deemed prudent to keep guard, as we were 
 approaching Indian hunting-grounds, and were liable at any 
 moment to meet a predatory band. Eight of the party kept 
 watch, each man being relieved every hour. Day's march, 32 
 miles ; distance from Westport, 154 miles. 
 
 May 20. The night was cold and frosty. Started soon after 
 sunrise, and, after travelling sixteen miles, encamped on Cotton- 
 wood Creek ; a pretty brook, lined with cottonwood and oak 
 trees, and alive with small fish, some of which were caught with 
 a hook and line. 
 
 Eesumed our march at noon, and travelled over a fMt unin 
 teresting country with little water. This day saw antelope for 
 the first time. Met Major Eucker, and Lieutenants Heath and 
 Robinson on their way from New Mexico to Fort Leavenworth. 
 They informed us that at a short distance in advance of us were 
 large bands of buffalo. Encamped, as the sun was setting, on a 
 brook called Turkey Creek, where we found an abundant sup 
 ply of water, but no wood. We here overtook Mr. Antoine 
 Leroux, on his way to Taos, and considered ourselves fortunate 
 in securing the services of so experienced a guide. He did not 
 join us at once, as he was desirous of seeing his train safely over 
 one or two bad places in advance of us, but promised to over 
 take us in a day or two. Day's march, 35 miles ; distance from 
 Westport, 189 miles. 
 
 May 21. Raised camp at sunrise, and after a ride of thirty 
 miles stopped to noon on the Little Arkansas. This stream is 
 difficult to cross during a continuance of heavy rains, but has 
 little water in it at this season. Passed good water and grass in 
 twelve miles from last camp. 
 
 We were all on the lookout for buffaloes. It was five days 
 since we had left Westport, and as yet our eyes had not been 
 gladdened by the sight of even one. Hoping to fall in with 
 
18 CENTRAL EOUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 / 
 
 them more readily by diverging from the beaten track, I left 
 the party soon after sunrise, and turning to the left, went a few 
 miles in the direction of the Arkansas. After a ride of two 
 hours, I observed afar off many dark objects which resembled 
 trees skirting the horizon, but, after a closer scrutiny, their change 
 of position convinced me that they were buffaloes. I slowly 
 approached them, and,' in order to obtain a nearer view with 
 out giving them the alarm, dismounted, and, urging my horse 
 forwards, concealed myself behind him. I thus got within a 
 hundred yards of the herd. Bands of antelope and prairie 
 wolves were intermingled with the buffaloes, who had come 
 down to a rivulet to drink. Of the latter some were fighting, 
 others wallowing, drinking, or browsing. I was just congratu 
 lating myself upon my ruse in getting so near to them, this being 
 my first sight of these noble animals, when my horse, suddenly 
 raising his head, uttered such a sonorous neigh as put the whole 
 troop to flight. Away they galloped, one band after another 
 taking the alarm, until the whole herd, numbering several 
 thousand, was in motion, and finally disappeared in clouds of 
 dust. Despairing of getting such another opportunity for a 
 shot, I reluctantly turned ny horse's head in the direction where 
 I supposed the rest of the party to be. A few hours' ride 
 brought me back to them. They too had fallen in with buffaloes, 
 and, in their eagerness to secure the first prize, each man had 
 taken two or three shots at a straggling old bull, an exile from 
 the herd; he fell, pierced with twenty-three balls. He was, 
 however, too old and tough to be eaten, and was left for his 
 friends the cayotes. 
 
 Buffaloes now became such an ordinary occurrence that the 
 novelty soon wore off, and we had more humps, tongues, and 
 marrow-bones than the greatest gourmand could have desired. 
 
 In the afternoon travelled ten miles to Owl Creek, one of the 
 head-waters of the Neosho, where we found good grass and 
 timber, but no water. Passed many pools, much muddied by 
 buffaloes. Mr. Leroux joined us here, but remained behind 
 again to see his train across this creek. 
 
 Early in the evening, another rain and thunderstorm broke 
 over us, and lasted all night; the grass, and everything metallic, 
 threw off sparks of electricity ; the rain descended in torrents, 
 and it was with difficulty that a fire could be kindled. A more 
 
FKOM WESTPOKT TO THE HUERFANO. 19 
 
 unpromising prospect could scarcely be imagined. Some en 
 deavored to secure the packs and provisions, whilst others, 
 stoically resigning themselves to their fate, wrapped their drip 
 ping blankets around them, and slept in spite of the storm. 
 Day's march, 40 miles'; distance from Westport, 229 miles. 
 
 May 22. Moved camp without breakfast, for, notwithstand 
 ing the rain, no water for making coffee had been caught. The 
 day broke clear and bright, and large bands of buffaloes being 
 in our vicinity, Mr. Beale and myself went out for a hunt. On 
 ascending the ridge which inclosed the bottom in which we 
 were encamped, long lines of these animals' could be seen quite 
 near, walking with solemn tread, and occasionally stopping to 
 browse or to roll; but, as we approached them to windward, 
 they soon took the alarm, and, wheeling round, galloped off to 
 rejoin the scattered herds in the plain. We rode some distance 
 down the deep bed of Owl Creek, and having got to leeward of 
 a large herd, endeavored to approach them in the Indian man 
 ner, by creeping on our hands and knees. By approaching 
 them to leeward, and remaining perfectly motionless whenever 
 they raise their heads to sniff the air, or evince any alarm, 
 hunters have succeeded in getting sufficiently near to strike 
 them with their ramrods. We, however, could only get within 
 rifle-shot, and Mr. Beale wounding one, though not mortally, 
 he made his escape with the rest of the band. Indians, in 
 chasing the buffalo, use only the most practised horses ; guiding 
 them with their knees, their long lances ready for use, they 
 rush at full speed in the midst of a herd, and piercing the ani 
 mal under the shoulder, so as to penetrate the heart, they leave 
 him to fall, and continue the chase, often killing ten or twelve 
 in the course of a single run. 
 
 We had already overtaken and passed several large wagon 
 and cattle trains from Texas and Arkansas, mostly bound to 
 California. With them were many women and children ; and 
 it was pleasant to stroll into their camps in the evening and 
 witness the perfect air of comfort and being-at-home that they 
 presented. Their wagons drawn up in a circle, gave them at 
 least an appearance of security ; and within the inclosure the 
 men either reclined around the camp-fires, or were busy in re 
 pairing their harness or cleaning their arms. The females 
 milked the cows and prepared the supper; and we often en- 
 
20 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 joyed the hot cakes and fresh milk which they invited us to 
 partake of. Tender infants in their cradles were seen under 
 the shelter of the wagons, thus early inured to hard travel. 
 Carpets and rocking-chairs were drawn out, and, what would 
 perhaps shock some of our fine ladies, fresh-looking girls, 
 whose rosy lips were certainly never intended to be defiled by 
 the vile weed, sat around the fire, smoking the old-fashioned 
 corn-cob pipe. 
 
 Although Mr. Beale and myself overtook camp at a late 
 hour, we travelled a few miles farther, and encamped for the 
 night on Walnut Creek, an insignificant brook at this season, 
 but which is difficult to cross after rains. This is the point at 
 which emigrants to Oregon and California, from Texas and 
 Arkansas, generally strike this road. They prefer the route 
 which leads them through the South Pass to the one on the 
 Gila, or Cooke's route, where little or no timber or water are 
 found for long distances. Mr. Leroux again rejoined us here 
 with the intention of remaining with us. In the evening, the 
 Delaware brought in the humps, tongues, and marrow-bones of 
 two fat buffalo cows. Day's march, 42 miles; distance from 
 Westport, 271 miles. 
 
 May 23. "We were again on the road at sunrise, and travel 
 led thirty-one miles to the Pawnee Fork of the Arkansas. The 
 sun was excessively hot, but towards noon its heat was tem 
 pered by a pleasant breeze from the northwest; crossed many 
 gullies, which carry water only after heavy rains. We passed, 
 on the right of the road, a remarkable butte, or spur of the hills, 
 projecting into the plain, and presenting a broad surface of 
 smooth rock, thickly inscribed with names. This landmark is 
 known as " The Pawnee Eock." 
 
 In twenty miles from last camp, we came to a well- wooded 
 ravine, after which the country became more undulating. Paw 
 nee Fork was swollen and turbid from the late rains, but we 
 got good water from a spring near the camp. The Delaware 
 brought in a fine antelope and a hare, and during our noon 
 camp shot an old buffalo cow, much bitten by wolves. 
 
 Encamped in the evening near a pond on the roadside, 
 where we found good pasturage, but no wood ; bois de vache 
 served us for fuel. Just before dark an enormous wolf boldly 
 trotted into camp, but a ball from the Delaware's rifle sent him 
 
FROM WESTPORT TO THE HUERFANO. 21 
 
 scouring over the plains, minus a leg. Several bands sur 
 rounded camp all night, keeping up a dismal howling. Day's 
 march, 40 miles ; distance from Westport, 311 miles. 
 
 May 24. Travelled steadily from 5| A. M. until noon, when 
 we encamped near a water-hole on the roadside. The country 
 was flat and uninteresting. Passed through many prairie-dog 
 villages, whose active little inhabitants sat in their holes, with 
 only their heads appearing above the surface, barking at us 
 with the appearance of great wrath at our intrusion. Saw 
 several bands of antelopes and wolves ; but all the buffaloes had 
 disappeared. Eesumed our journey at 5 P. M., and traversed 
 level plains, devoid of interest, until 9 P. M., when we reached 
 the Arkansas. It was quite dark when we encamped, and we 
 spread our blankets without supper. The rain commenced 
 falling at midnight, and continued until morning, accompanied 
 by a high wind. We were, of course, far from comfortable, 
 having no shelter whatever from the storm; but to Mr. Leroux, 
 who was taken suddenly ill, this inclement weather was par 
 ticularly distressing. He was attacked with pleurisy, and his 
 sufferings were so great that he felt convinced that this place 
 would be his grave. Day's march, 45 miles ; total distance from 
 Westport, 356 miles. 
 
 May 25. We were glad to saddle up at sunrise, and in five 
 miles reached Fort Atkinson, where Major Johnson, the officer 
 in command, gave us a cordial reception. Several large bands 
 of Indians, of the Cheyenne and Arapahoe tribes were con 
 gregated around the fort, awaiting the arrival of Major Fitz- 
 patrick, Indian Agent, whom they daily expected. As it 
 continued to rain without intermission all day, we concluded 
 to pass the night in the fort, where Major Johnson had pro 
 vided comfortable accommodations for us. Orders had just 
 been received to remove this post to Pawnee Fork of the Ar 
 kansas, one hundred miles nearer the settlements. It will 
 there be of very little service, for it is already too near to the 
 frontiers. The timber at Pawnee Fork being mostly cotton- 
 woods, it is not suitable for building purposes; though at Fort 
 Atkinson there is none whatever nearer than fifteen miles ; and 
 it was with some difficulty that we obtained a few small logs 
 for our men, who were encamped at a short distance, under 
 tents, borrowed from the fort. All the houses are in a dilapi- 
 
22 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 i 
 
 dated condition ; a few are built of adobes (sun-dried bricks), 
 but the greater part are constructed of sods. Emigrants fre 
 quently stop here to settle their difficulties with Indians, and 
 with each other, Major Johnson administering justice in a 
 prompt and impartial manner. A few days before our arrival, 
 a quarrel having occurred between a party of emigrants and 
 some Cheyenne Indians, which ended in blows, Major Johnson, 
 upon investigation, finding that an American was the aggres 
 sor, immediately ordered him back to the States. Mr. Leroux 
 being still too ill to continue the journey, remained here under 
 the care of the surgeon of the post ; and Mr. W. Riggs, desiring 
 to return to the States, took leave of us at this point. Day's 
 travel, 5 miles ; whole distance, 361 miles. 
 
 May 26. Although it still continued to rain, we left Fort 
 Atkinson at noon, and travelled up the left bank of the Ar 
 kansas. The trail from Independence to Santa Fd crosses the 
 Arkansas ten miles above Fort Atkinson; and there is another 
 crossing five miles higher up. The rain continued without in 
 termission, and at 7 P. M. we encamped, after a rapid ride of 
 thirty -five miles. Found but little wood, which was difficult to 
 kindle, and made a wretched supper. The rain poured on us 
 all night without cessation, completely saturating our blankets. 
 The Arkansas was rising fast. Day's march, 35 miles ; making 
 396 from Westport. 
 
 May 27. Heavy rain all night; raised camp at 6.30 A.M., 
 and until nine o'clock our route was up the left bank of 
 the Arkansas. The country offered no variety. The river 
 bottom in which we travelled was very sloppy from the late 
 rains ; coarse grass we found in abundance. It is not as nourish 
 ing as the drier grass of the prairie, which the mules are more 
 partial to. We passed during the morning several large parties 
 of emigrants for California with cattle. Their stock was in 
 good condition, and travelled steadily at the rate of fifteen miles 
 a day. Encamped near an emigrant train at noon to dry our 
 packs and clean our arms. "We had killed some ducks, which, 
 with milk and butter from the emigrants, enabled us to make 
 an excellent dinner. Day's march, 20 miles ; total distance, 416 
 miles. 
 
 May 28. It rained lightly all night. Started at 6 A. M., and 
 travelled up the left bank of the Arkansas nineteen miles over 
 
FROM WESTPORT TO THE HUERFANO. 23 
 
 a rolling country. The constant emigration on this route has 
 destroyed nearly all the timber on the left bank of the Arkansas. 
 The emigrants burn more wood than they need, and frequently 
 by their carelessness destroy much valuable timber, as well as 
 set fire to the prairies. There are many cottonwood trees on 
 the islands of the Arkansas, and on its right bank. Encamped 
 on an island formed by the rise of 'the river. The Delaware 
 killed a fine antelope and some ducks. Went twelve miles 
 farther in the afternoon, and encamped on an island (Chouteau's 
 Island). The river was everywhere fordable. On the left shore, 
 opposite to us, was a large emigrant train, whose cattle were in 
 splendid condition; they supplied us abundantly with milk. 
 The country over which we travelled this day was broken, with 
 low hills and dry ravines running towards the river. They had 
 some cottonwood trees in them, also large quantities of drift 
 wood, showing that they discharge much water during rains, 
 and come from a comparatively wooded country. Day's travel, 
 31 miles ; 4A7 from Westport. 
 
 May 29. At sunrise, recrossed the river to its left bank ; 
 grass still coarse and rank. The water of the Arkansas is very 
 similar in color and taste to that of the Missouri. As we coasted 
 up the left bank the grass became coarser and scantier. Passed 
 a singular slaty mound on the right of the road, resembling a 
 pyramid in ruins. Encamped at noon near a slough of the 
 river. There was no wood near enough for use ; but the gene 
 ral resource in such cases on the plains was scattered in abund 
 ance around us. The sun was very hot, but at times tempered 
 by a light breeze from the northwestward. A wagon and cattle 
 train of emigrants encamped near us. In the afternoon, we as 
 cended the river eight miles, and encamped near the stream in 
 coarse, wiry grass, as in fact it has been for several days past. 
 The country a few miles from the river has scanty grass and 
 dry arid soil. In the evening, we had a large company of emi 
 grants on each side of us. Day's travel, 36 miles ; whole distance, 
 483 miles. 
 
 May 30. Raised camp soon after sunrise, and after travelling 
 twenty miles, encamped in the " Big Timbers" on the Arkansas. 
 The grass on the plains was coarse, and not very abundant on 
 the river. This place is a favorite resort of the Indians in winter. 
 They here find a good shelter from the bitterly cold winds which 
 
24 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 then sweep over these plains, and their horses can always pick 
 up a living along the river. This grove of cottonwoods extends 
 for several miles. They are large and grow close together. 
 The weather was cloudy in the morning, but clear at noon ; 
 wind southwest. We passed this morning two wagon and 
 cattle trains for California via Great Salt Lake. Washington 
 Trainor, of California, with a large number of cattle, and about 
 fifty fine horses and mules, camped near us. We travelled 
 twelve miles in the afternoon, and encamped at 7 P. M. The 
 country had become more interesting and rolling, and we had 
 occasionally beautiful views of the Arkansas. The grass im 
 proved as we ascended the river, and we had now an abundance 
 of timber, particularly where we encamped for the night. We 
 passed in the afternoon the old trading-post established by 
 Hatcher for the convenience of trading in winter with the In 
 dians at the " Big Timbers." This place was abandoned when 
 Bent's Fort was given up, and is now in ruins. Saw many 
 deer, but killed only a few ducks. 'Day's travel, 32 miles ; total 
 distance, 515 miles. 
 
 May 31. Swarms of mosquitoes prevented much sleep. 
 Thunder and lightning north and south of us all night. 
 Started at sunrise ; the sky was clear and weather cool, with a 
 bracing wind from the northwest ; in a few hours it veered to 
 the southwest. At ten o'clock, we had our first view of the 
 Spanish Peaks, distant about seventy miles. Travelled up the 
 left bank of the Arkansas, and obtained at times several pic 
 turesque views of the river, which is occasionally hemmed in 
 by rocky cliffs. The country was more rolling, stony, and 
 dry than on the preceding day. Saw many deer and antelopes. 
 At ten o'clock, we passed the mouth of Purgatoire Kiver, flowi 
 ing into the Arkansas from the southwestward. Beds of excel 
 lent coal have been discovered on this stream, which will be of 
 inestimable value hereafter. At twelve, encamped on " Lower 
 Dry Creek," where we found scanty dry grass and water in 
 pools. The Delaware brought in two fine antelopes. Travelled 
 ten miles in the afternoon, and encamped three miles above 
 Bent's Fort. We rode all through the ruins, which present a 
 strange appearance in these solitudes. A few years ago this 
 post was frequented by numerous trappers and Indians, and at 
 times exhibited a scene of wild confusion. It is now roofless ; 
 
FROM WESTPORT TO THE HUERFANO. 25 
 
 for when the United States refused to purchase it, the proprie 
 tors set it on fire to prevent its becoming a harbor for Indians. 
 The adobe walls are still standing, and are in many places of 
 great thickness. They were covered with written messages from 
 parties who had already passed here to their friends in the 
 rear; they all stated that their herds were in good condition, 
 and progressing finely. Day's march, 35 miles ; distance from 
 Westport, 550 miles. 
 
 June 1. The weather in the morning was pleasant, and the 
 wind from the northwest cooled by passing over the snow-clad 
 peaks of the Rocky Mountains. According to our maps, we 
 were now within an easy day's travel of the mouth of the Huer- 
 fano (Orphan's River), and were impatient to reach that point, 
 as we there intended to diverge from the beaten track, and, 
 leaving the Arkansas behind us, traverse the plains lying be 
 tween that river and the base of the Spanish Peaks, Sangre de 
 Cristo Mountains, and the Sierra Mojada. 
 
 Started before sunrise; the road leading occasionally on the 
 Arkansas bottom, but more frequently over the upper plain. 
 The bottom was covered with an abundance of coarse grass, 
 whereas, on the plain, it was scanty, and in bunches. Proceed 
 ing four miles we" crossed Upper Dry Creek, which is seven 
 miles from Bent's Fort; and, in twelve more, passed a large 
 pond. Many large bands of antelope and deer bounded away 
 on either side as we advanced. At half-past .twelve we. ascended 
 a remarkable spur, which projects into the river-bottom, and 
 can be seen for fifteen miles below; it .bears northeast from 
 the Spanish Peaks. From this point we could mark the- course 
 of Timpas Creek from the mountains to its junction with the 
 Arkansas. On the right bank of the Timpas, near its mouth, 
 are several singular buttes, two of which are conioal, and the 
 remainder flat-topped. Our noon camp was two -miles below 
 the Timpas, and about twenty-eight above Bent's Fort. As 
 this was the distance from Bent's Fort at which the mouth of 
 the Huerfano was placed on our maps, we expected to reach it 
 before dark ; bat found that we would have to travel sixteen 
 or seventeen miles farther up the Arkansas. In fact, from 
 this point until we reached the Mormon settlement on Little 
 Salt Lake, we could place no reliance on the maps. Crossed 
 the Arkansas one mile above the mouth of the Timpas, and 
 3 
 
26 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 had no difficulty in fording it, though, without due caution, 
 animals are liable to get entangled in quicksands. The grass 
 on the plains west of the Arkansas was more abundant and of 
 a better quality than that on the side we had just left ; there 
 was also much grama grass and cactus. The water of the 
 Timpas, which was found in holes only, was cool, but slightly 
 brackish. The night was bright and starry, and illuminated 
 during part of the evening by a beautiful aurora borealis. 
 Day's travel, 30 miles; distance from Westport, 580 miles. 
 
 June 2. Left the Timpas at early dawn, and discerned at a 
 distance of fifteen miles several high buttes, bearing due west, 
 in a line with the southern end of the Sierra Mojada ; towards 
 these we now directed our course. The country was gradually 
 rolling towards the buttes, and covered with abundant bunch 
 grass; the prickly pear, or cactus, which grows in clusters close 
 to the ground, was at times very distressing to our mules; 
 their constant efforts to avoid treading on this annoying plant 
 gave them an uneasy, jerking gait, very harassing to their 
 riders during a long day's march. Upon reaching the summit 
 of the buttes, a magnificent and extensive panorama was opened 
 to our view. The horizon was bounded on the north by Pike's 
 Peak, northwest and west by the Sierra Mojada, Sangre de 
 Cristo Mountains, and Spanish Peaks ; to the south and east 
 extended the prairie, lost in the hazy distance. On the gently 
 undulating plains, reaching to the foot of the mountains, could 
 be traced the courses of the Arkansas and Sage Creek by their 
 lines of timber. The Apispah, an affluent of the Arkansas, 
 issuing from the Sierra Mojada, was concealed from sight by a 
 range of intervening buttes, while the object of our search, 
 the Huerfano, flowed at our feet, distant about three miles, its 
 course easy to be distinguished from the point where it issued 
 from the mountains to its junction with the Arkansas, except 
 at short intervals, where it passed through canons in the plain. 
 Pike's Peak, whose head was capped with eternal snows, was a 
 prominent object in the landscape, soaring high above all neigh 
 boring summits. 
 
 Descending the buttes to the Huerfano, we encamped on it 
 about five miles above its mouth. A bold and rapid stream, 
 its waters were turbid, but sweet and cool; the river-bottom 
 was broad, and thickly wooded with willows and cottonwoods, 
 
FROM WESTPORT TO THE HUERFANO. 27 
 
 interlaced with the wild rose and grape- vine, and carpeted with 
 soft grass a sylvan paradise. This stream was about twenty- 
 five yards in breadth, and five feet deep close to the bank. 
 Bands of antelope and deer dotted the plain, one of which 
 served us for supper, brought down by the unerring rifle of 
 Dick, the Delaware. 
 
 This camp was to us a scene of real enjoyment ; a long and 
 tedious march, over plains of unvarying sameness, was over, 
 and we were now on the eve of entering upon a new and unex 
 plored country, which promised to the admirers of nature a 
 rich and ever-varying treat. The hunters of the party also 
 looked forward with impatience to reaching the mountains, 
 where game of every description was said to abound, and where 
 it would not be necessary to exercise the great patience and per 
 severance, without which it is difficult to approach deer and 
 antelope on the plains; the Delaware possessed both these 
 requisites in perfection, and gave us daily proofs of his skill. 
 ~\Ve noticed, whilst travelling along the same route with emi 
 grants, that although game was at times comparatively scarce 
 near the road, it was not owing to the number they destroyed, 
 but rather to the constant fusillade which they kept up on every 
 thing living, from a buffalo to a goffer, and from a grouse to a 
 blackbird. 
 
 In the afternoon, we continued up the Huerfano about a mile, 
 and crossed over to the left bank ; the ford was good and but 
 three feet deep. Fine grama grass grew on the upper plain on 
 each side of the river, and an abundance of rich grass on the 
 bottom land. A large growth of cottonwoods line the banks 
 of this stream for twelve miles above its mouth, though higher 
 up it is not so heavily timbered. It is hemmed in at intervals 
 by picturesque bluffs of sandstone. 
 
 The following are the bearings of the mouth of the Huerfano ; 
 Pike's Peak, northwest; northern Spanish Peak, south-southwest; 
 southern Spanish Peak, south by west. General course of the 
 river, from southwest to northeast. Day's journey, 28 miles ; 
 total, 608 miles. 
 
28 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 i 
 
 ROUTE FROM HUERFANO RIVER TO COOCHATOPE PASS. 
 
 June 3. Our camp the preceding night was a mile below the 
 lower end of the canon through which the Huerfano forces a 
 passage ; this chasm is about ten miles in length, and the ground 
 on each side is much cut up by deep and rocky ravines running 
 into it. I.rqde up to its entrance to sketch; the scenery was 
 wild and beautiful ; wild turkeys flew away at my approach, 
 and the startled deer rose from their beds in the grass at the 
 bottom of the canon, making their escape up a ravine to the 
 plain. A line' of bluffs riins parallel to the Huerfano on the 
 west from two to five miles distant; and wagons should travel 
 at their base to avoid the broken ground nearer the stream ; 
 a thick growth of dwarf pines and cedars covers their summits. 
 The wagon trail from the Greenhorn and Hardscrabble settle 
 ments on the upper Arkansas approaches' the Huerfano below 
 this canon, leaves it there, and returns to it above. 
 
 After a ride of twenty-four miles up the left bank we en 
 camped to noon on a gully where we found water in rocky 
 hollows; the pasturage was excellent, 'as in fact it had been 
 since reaching the Huerfano, for we had not seen better since 
 leaving Council Grove. The scenery, as we approached the 
 country between the Spanish Peaks and the Sierra Mojada, was 
 picturesque and beautiful; mountains towered high above us, 
 the summits of some covered with snow, while the dense forests 
 of dark pines which clothed their sides, contrasted well with 
 the light green of the meadows near their base. All day, heavy 
 clouds had been gathering on the mountain-tops, portending a 
 storm; at noon it broke, covering them with snow, and soon 
 after swept over the plains. Here it rained in torrents, accom 
 panied by a Avesterly wind, which blew with such fury as to 
 
ITT! 
 
 FO 
 
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 v 
 

 
 
 f^f 
 
 D-b 
 ^ 
 DiD 
 
FROM THE HUERFANO TO COOCHATOPE PASS. 29 
 
 render it impossible for man or beast to face it ; at the cross 
 ing of Apache Creek, a small affluent of the Huerfano, we were 
 compelled to turn our backs to the gale and wait patiently for 
 its subsidence. Long before the rain had ceased on the plains, 
 the mountain tops were again glittering in the setting sun, the 
 newly fallen snow sparkling in his beams, tinged with a rosy 
 hue. Soon after dark we encamped on the Huerfano, in the 
 midst of luxuriant grass. Our packs and bedding had got wet, 
 the ground was spongy and boggy, and, although the rain had 
 ceased, a heavy dew fell during the night, which completely 
 saturated us ; we made our beds in deep mud. About a mile 
 beyond our camping place stood the Huerfano Butte, which is 
 so prominent a landmark. Day's march, 34 miles ; total dis 
 tance from "West-port, 642 miles. 
 
 June 4. I rode ahead of camp, to Huerfano Butte, a remark 
 able mound, bearing north from the southernmost Spanish Peak, 
 and about fifty yards from the right bank of the river ; its ap 
 pearance was that of a huge artificial mound of stones, covered 
 half-way up from its base with a dense growth of bushes. It is 
 probably of volcanic origin, and there are many indications in 
 this region of the- action of internal fires. 
 
 Our ride to-day was full of interest, for we were now ap 
 proaching the Sangre de Cristo Pass, in the Sangre de Cristo 
 Mountains. We had been travelling for eighteen days, over an 
 uninterrupted plain, until its monotony had become extremely 
 wearisome. The mountain scenery, which we entered soon 
 after raising camp this morning, was of the most picturesque 
 description. We crossed the Huerfano seven miles above the 
 Butte; at this point it issues from a canon one hundred and 
 fifty yards in length; above it the valley, watered by the 
 Huerfano, forms a beautiful plain of small extent, surrounded 
 by lofty and well-wooded mountains ; numerous rills trickle 
 down their sides, irrigate the plain, and join their waters to 
 those of the Huerfano, which are here clear and cold. We did 
 not enter this valley, but left the H. after crossing it, and 
 followed up the bed of one of its tributaries, the Cuchada, a 
 small brook rising near the summit of the Sangre de Cristo 
 Pass. This small valley of the Huerfano contains about six 
 hundred acres, and forms a most ravishing picture ; it would 
 be a good place for recruiting cattle after their weary march 
 
30 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 across the plains, as they would be perfectly secure and sheltered, 
 and the pasturage is excellent. This, however, is the case all 
 through these mountains, for waving grass, gemmed with flowers 
 of every hue, covers them to their summits, except in the region 
 of snow. The Cuchada led us up a succession of valleys of an 
 easy grade. We were now travelling on an Indian trail ; for 
 the wagon trail, which I believe was made by Roubitleau's 
 wagons, deviated to the right, and went through the pass named 
 after him. This pass is so low that we perceived through it a 
 range of sand hills of moderate height, in San Luis valley ; to 
 have gone through it, however, would have occasioned us 
 the loss of a day in reaching Fort Massachusetts, though it is 
 the shortest and most direct route to the Coochatope; and 
 Mr. Beale's views constrained him to take the most direct 
 route to Fort Massachusetts, where he expected to obtain a 
 guide through the unexplored country between New Mexico 
 and Utah, and also to procure some mules. We were there 
 fore very reluctantly compelled to forego the examination of 
 Roubideau's Pass. 
 
 Encamped at noon at the foot of a remarkable rock, watered 
 at its base by the Cuchada ; it resembled the ruined front of a 
 Gothic church. Encamped for the night six miles farther up 
 the valley, and near the summit of the Sangre de Cristo Pass. 
 An excellent wagon road might be made over these mountains, 
 by the Sangre de Cristo Pass, and a still better one through 
 Eoubideau's. 
 
 The grass around our encampment was really magnificent ; it 
 was in a large mountain meadow, watered by numerous springs 
 and girt in by dark pines. Through an opening in the 
 mountains, to the eastward, we could see the sunny plains 
 of the Arkansas and Huerfano, with its remarkable butte, 
 whilst around us heavy clouds were collecting, giving warning 
 of a storm and wet night. We made ourselves shelters and 
 beds of pine boughs. The Delaware had killed a fat antelope, 
 which furnished us a hearty supper ; and we sat around our fire, 
 until a late hour, well pleased with having accomplished in such 
 good time and without accident the first stage of our journey, 
 for we expected to reach Fort Massachusetts at an early hour 
 next day. Day's march, 26 miles ; total distance, 668 miles. 
 
 June 5. The rain fell at intervals all night, but the clouds 
 
FROM THE HUERFANO TO COOCHATOPE PASS. 31 
 
 dispersed before dawn, and the sun rose in a bright and clear 
 sky ; the plains, however, were concealed under a sea of snowy 
 mist. 
 
 Continued our course to the southwestward through thick 
 pine woods, and in one mile we reached the head waters of Sangre 
 de Cristo Creek, flowing into the Del Norte after its junction 
 with the Trinchera. The Sangre de Cristo mountains, and the 
 Sierras Blanca and Mojada, were covered with snow. We fol 
 lowed down the Sangre de Cristo, which every moment in 
 creased in size, its clear and icy waters leaping over rocks, and 
 the mountain sides were covered with tender grass, strawberry 
 blossoms, and violets. 
 
 On our maps, the Sangre de Cristo is improperly named In 
 dian Creek, which is a fork of the Sangre de Cristo, and is not 
 named at all on them. Up Indian Creek, I am informed, there 
 exists an excellent pass from San Luis valley to the plains on 
 the eastern side of the mountains. 
 
 After crossing Indian Creek, we halted a few minutes to 
 make our toilets previous to our arrival at Fort Massachusetts; 
 and, although our hunter had just ridden into camp with a 
 haunch of fat venison behind his saddle, and our appetites, 
 which were at all times excellent, had been sharpened by a 
 long mountain ride without breakfast, we were too impatient 
 to reach the fort to lose time in camping. We arrived there late 
 in the afternoon, and received a warm and hospitable welcome 
 from Major Blake, the officer in command, Lieutenants Jackson 
 and Johnson, and Dr. Magruder. An incipient rain-storm made 
 us feel sensible that we were still in the vicinity of the Sierra 
 Mojada (or Wet Mountains), which well merit the name, for 
 rain fell every day that we were in or near them ; on the high 
 est peaks in the form of snow, and lower down in hazy moist 
 ure, alternating with drenching showers. This humidity gives 
 great fertility to this region, and the country bordering on the 
 sides of these mountains, as well as the valleys within their 
 recesses, are unequalled in loveliness and richness of vegetation. 
 To the settler, they offer every inducement; and I have no 
 doubt that in a few years this tract of country will vie with 
 California or Australia in the number of immigrants it will 
 invite to it. It is by far the most beautiful as well as the most 
 fertile portion of New Mexico, and a remarkably level country 
 
32 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 unites it with the western frontier of the Atlantic States. As 
 soon as this is thrown open to settlement, a continuous line 
 of farms will be established, by which the agricultural and 
 mineral wealth of this region will be developed. Communica 
 tion will then be more rapid, and instead of the mail being, as 
 it is now, thirty .days in reaching Fort Massachusetts, it will be 
 carried through in eight or ten. 
 
 Messrs. Beale, Riggs, Rogers, and myself quartered at the 
 Fort ; the men encamped two miles below on Utah Creek, in a 
 beautiful grove of cottonwoods. A tent was sent to them, and 
 with fresh bread and meat they were soon rendered perfectly 
 comfortable. There was excellent pasturage around their en 
 campment, on which the mules soon forgot the hard marches they 
 had made since leaving Westport. Day's travel, 25 miles ; total 
 distance from "Westport to Fort Massachusetts, 693 miles. 
 
 June 14. As it was found impossible to obtain here the men 
 and animals that we required, and that it would be necessary to 
 go to Taos, and perhaps to Santa Fe, for this purpose, Mr. Beale 
 and Major Blake left for the former place on the morning after 
 our arrival at the fort. Taos is about eighty, and Santa F 
 about one hundred and forty miles to the southward. 
 
 During our detention at Fort Massachusetts, I took frequent 
 rides into the mountains on each side of it. 
 
 This post is situated in a narrow gorge through which the 
 Utah rushes until it joins the Trinchera, and is a quadrangular 
 stockade of pine log pickets, inclosing comfortable quarters for 
 one hundred and fifty men, cavalry and infantry. Lofty and 
 precipitous mountains surround it on three sides ; and although 
 the situation may be suitable for a grazing farm on account of 
 the pasturage, and the abundance of good timber may render 
 this a convenient point for a military station, it is too far re 
 moved from the general track of Indians to be of much service 
 in protecting the settlements in San Luis valley from their in 
 sults and ravages. The Utahs, who infest the Sahwatch mount 
 ains, enter San Luis valley by the Carnero and Coochatope 
 Passes from the westward, and by those of Del Punche, Del 
 Medino, and Del Mosque from the northward and northeastward, 
 and a post established at the head of the valley of San Luis 
 would be much more effective in keeping these marauders in 
 check, as it would there be able to prevent, if necessary, their 
 
FROM THE HUERFANO TO COOCHATOPE PASS. 33 
 
 descending into the valley in large numbers, and completely 
 cut off their retreat with their booty. The valley of the Sah- 
 watch, so rich in pasturage, so well adapted to tillage, and so 
 abundantly watered and timbered, appears to offer the best posi 
 tion for a fort, and it would be as accessible from Taos as the post 
 on the Utah, although the distance would of course be greater. 
 
 The cavalry at Fort Massachusetts numbered seventy-five 
 men, of whom forty-five were mounted. Though their horses 
 were excellently groomed and stabled, and kept in high con 
 dition on corn, at six dollars a bushel, they would soon break 
 down on a march in pursuit of Indians mounted on horses fed 
 on grass, and accustomed to gallop at half speed up or down the 
 steepest hills. Corn-fed animals lose their strength when they 
 are put on grass, and do not soon get accustomed to the change 
 of diet. Of this fact the officers at the fort were perfectly sen 
 sible, and regretted that they were not better prepared for any 
 sudden emergency. 
 
 The weather during our stay at the fort was cool and bracing ; 
 wind generally from the southwest, with frequent showers of 
 rain. 
 
 Mr. Beale returned from the southern country late in the 
 afternoon of this day, and brought with him a guide, and a 
 Mexican arriero (muleteer) ; they were cousins, and both named 
 Felipe Archilete. Jesus Garcia was discharged here, and Patrick 
 Dolan, a soldier who had served out his time, hired in his place. 
 Our party now numbered fourteen. 
 
 The guide, Felipe Archilete, or " Peg-Leg," for it was by this 
 sobriquet that he was commonly known to Americans, deserves 
 particular mention. He had spent the greater part of his life trad 
 ing and trapping in the Indian country, and his accurate know 
 ledge of the region between the Arkansas and Sevier River in 
 Utah Territory, as well as his acquaintance with the Utah 
 tongue, promised to render him of great service to us in the 
 absence of Mr. Leroux. A few years ago, in a skirmish with 
 the Utahs, he was wounded in the left ankle with a rifle ball, 
 which completely crippled his foot, and compelled him to use 
 at times a wooden leg, which he carried suspended to his waist. 
 Notwithstanding his lameness, he was one of the most active 
 men of the party, and was always the foremost in times of diffi 
 culty and danger. 
 
34 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 During Mr. Beale's absence, I replenished our provisions from 
 the sutler's store, and had a small supply of biscuit baked ; a 
 bullock which I purchased from the quartermaster, was cut up 
 and jerked by the Delaware, and the mules were reshod, and a 
 supply of spare shoes and nails obtained. They were completely 
 rested, and in even better condition than when we started from 
 Westport ; after a general overhauling of the camp equipage 
 by the men, everything was put in order for resuming our 
 journey, as soon as Mr. Beale should return. 
 
 June 15. Bidding adieu to our kind friends at the fort, we 
 resumed our journey at noon, and travelled down Utah Creek 
 south-southwest, until it debouched in the valley of San Luis, 
 when we altered our course to west by north. In six miles 
 from Fort Massachusetts, we crossed the trail of Eoubideau's 
 wagons from the upper Arkansas settlements ; they entered 
 through Eoubideau's Pass in the Sierra Mojada. After crossing 
 it, our route led us over a level plain covered with artemisia, cacti, 
 and patches of the nutritious gram a. A ride of twenty -five miles 
 brought us at dark to a slough of the Eio del Norte, where we 
 encamped. Day's march, 25 miles ; total distance from West- 
 port, 718 miles. 
 
 June 16. Our animals were inclined to stray back to the fort, 
 but by constant watchfulness during the night they were pre 
 vented from wandering too far from camp. We never hobbled 
 nor picketed our mules, unless compelled to do so by circum 
 stances, for it was noticed that when thus confined they did not 
 eat as heartily as when allowed to range freely in search of the 
 grass they preferred. It was the duty of the men on guard to 
 prevent their straying, and this added much to our fatigue. 
 
 Having ascertained that our supply of lead was insufficient, 
 Mr. Eogers and myself started at 4 A. M. to return to Fort 
 Massachusetts to procure more. We crossed a spur of the 
 mountains in a direct line to the fort, instead of going round 
 by their base, thereby saving four or five miles of the distance. 
 The trail was much obstructed by trees and brush ; but we 
 reached the fort at an early hour, and also avoided- a very 
 troublesome marsh, where some of our mules were mired the 
 day before. 
 
 At the fort, we engaged Juan Lente as arriero (muleteer), and 
 bought a mule for him. On returning to our last camping place, 
 
FROM THE HUERFAXO TO COOCHATOPE PASS. 35 
 
 Lieut. Johnson gave us an escort of two dragoons. The wea 
 ther was cool and pleasant in the morning, but warm in the 
 afternoon. Having started from the fort at 2 P. M. we did not 
 reach the slough on the Del Norte until 8J P.M. 
 
 The camp had left in the morning, and had crossed the bot 
 tom lands of the Del Norte, eighteen miles in breadth ; this 
 crossing is at times difficult and dangerous on account of the 
 numerous sloughs and marshes, which can be altogether avoided, 
 however, by a circuit of a few miles. 
 
 Midway to the river they fell in with some Utah Indians, 
 hunting wild horses ; the Indians were the first to discover our 
 party, and the foremost stood upright on his horse, in order to 
 obtain a better view; he counted their number, and signalized 
 his discovery with his gun to his comrades, who thereupon ap 
 proached at full speed. They had their squaws with them and 
 some children, all mounted on good horses, and were quite 
 friendly. In the course of the day they lassoed a mustang, but 
 strangled him in their eagerness to secure their prize. 18 miles; 
 736 miles. 
 
 June 17. Mr. Eogers and myself started at 3 A. M., and 
 overtook our party at 8.30 A. M.. as they were preparing to 
 raise camp. AVe proceeded immediately on our journey, and 
 coasting up the left bank of the Del Norte about ten miles, left 
 it where it made a bend to the westward, directing our course 
 north by west to the Sahwatch valley, the commencement of 
 the Coochatope Pass. Before leaving the Del Norte, the In 
 dians were asked whether there was water in the direction in 
 which we were going ; for the commencement of the Sahwatch 
 valley was about thirty miles distant. They replied that we 
 should find water and grass by going around by the foot of the 
 mountains, but none by going direct. The circuitous route 
 they recommended would have occupied us two days, whilst we 
 hoped to accomplish the distance direct before night. Our red 
 friends were unwilling to venture with us, and bade us farewell; 
 we parted with them on friendly terms ; they had spent the 
 night in our camp, shared our supper and breakfast, and smoked 
 our pipes. 
 
 The plain was as level as the sea to the foot of the mount 
 ains, which inclose San Luis valley. A low spur of hills to 
 the northward, indicated the entrance to the valley of the Sah- 
 
36 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 watch. In fourteen miles from the point where we left the 
 river, we crossed a fine brook of clear and cool water the Rio de 
 la Garita, which rises in the Sahwatch mountains, and, flowing 
 .east, discharges itself into a large lagoon at the base of the 
 Sierra Mojada, in the northern part of the valley of San Luis. 
 Its banks were swampy, and, although later in the season this 
 inconvenience probably does not exist, wagons would do well 
 to cross it nearer to the mountains on the left. Our course was 
 in the face of a breeze which raised clouds of dust wherever 
 the soil was loosened by our animals' feet, and those riding in 
 the rear suffered much inconvenience from it. In ten miles 
 from the Rio Garita, we came to an abundant spring, surrounded 
 by good grass, where we rested but a moment to drink, though 
 we had travelled steadily since morning without eating. Mr. 
 Beale was anxious to reach the entrance of the Sahwatch 
 valley before evening, and to regain some of the time which 
 had been unavoidably lost at Fort Massachusetts. At the 
 spring we found a trail leading to the Sahwatch valley, and as 
 soon as our mules struck it they stepped out with fresh spirit. 
 The valley of San Luis, to the commencement of the Sahwatch 
 is singularly level, the smooth ground seeming only to have the 
 natural curve of the earth. The only vegetation, excepting in 
 the vicinity of water, was artemisia, cactus, and occasionally 
 grama grass. 
 
 The valley of the Sahwatch has two entrances from that of 
 San Luis. The one which we selected, on account of its being 
 the nearest, is called by the Spaniards El Rincon del Sahwatch 
 (the corner of the Sahwatch), as it forms a cut-off' into Sah 
 watch valley proper. The main entrance is a few miles farther 
 on. We went three miles up the Rincon, and encamped at 
 sunset at a spring of excellent water, where our mules found 
 fine pasturage. Mr. Rogers and myself rode sixty-eight miles 
 this day, and fifty the day before; which I mention to show the 
 facility of travelling in this region. Day's march, 50 miles ; 
 whole distance, 786 miles. 
 
 June 18. Mosquitos allowed us little rest. As our animals 
 had had rather a long march the day before, camp was not 
 raised until 8 A. M. For two and a half miles our course 
 was west by north; we then turned to the northward over 
 some steep hills, and, upon reaching their summit, obtained a 
 
UNITIE 
 
 

 V 
 
FROM THE HUERFAXO TO COOCHATOPE PASS. 37 
 
 glorious view of the valley of the Sahwatch. It was quite 
 level, and from two to five miles in breadth, gradually narrow 
 ing to the westward ; the rise was imperceptible, appearing 
 like a continuation of the plain of San Luis. An abundant 
 stream, the Sahwatch, nearly as broad as the Huerfano, but 
 deeper, flows through its centre, and empties into the lagoon 
 in San Luis valley. Its surface was clothed with nutritious 
 grasses, and the hills and mountains by which it is hemmed in 
 were covered with a thick growth of firs, aspens, and pines. 
 
 We proceeded fourteen miles farther up, and encamped at 
 noon in a small valley running into the main one. There is an 
 abundance of water in all the lateral valleys, as well as grass ; 
 in the main one, I noticed a superior quality of sandstone. 
 The weather was clear and pleasant, and wind west. 
 
 On resuming our march in the afternoon, we ascended the 
 small valley, as it shortened the distance a couple of miles, and 
 re-entered that of the Sahwatch. After a ride of eight miles 
 we crossed Sahwatch Creek, its waters reaching to our saddles, 
 and encamped, as the sun was setting, at the entrance of the 
 celebrated COOCHATOPE PASS. 
 
 Sahwatch valley maintains its level character to this point 
 and for several miles above, where it was shut from view by 
 a curve. The entrance to the Carnero Pass is about a mile 
 above the Coochatope, and we regretted that we had not time 
 to examine it. 
 
 A military post placed in Sahwatch valley, between these two 
 passes, would do important service in holding the Utahs in check. 
 These Indians most frequently enter San Luis valley through 
 these passes, and it is here that a fort would be best placed 
 to prevent their incursions, or to intercept their retreat with 
 booty. The mountains are clothed with timber from their base 
 to their summit, the valley with luxuriant and nutritious grasses, 
 and clear, brawling mountain streams pour into them on every 
 side. The distance to the nearest New Mexican settlements is 
 about one hundred and twenty miles, and the intervening coun 
 try is a dead level. If undisturbed by the incursions of Indians, 
 these valleys would soon be settled and cultivated: for it is 
 only of late, since the establishment of a military post on Utah 
 Creek, that settlements of any consequence have been made on 
 Costilla and Culebra creeks. 
 
38 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 FROM THE COOCHATOPE PASS TO GRAND RIVER LOSSES ON 
 GRAND RIVER. 
 
 COOCHATOPE PASS is a wonderful gap, or, more properly 
 speaking, a natural GATE, as its name denotes in the Utah lan 
 guage. On each side, mountains rise in abrupt and rocky pre 
 cipices', the one on the eastern side being the highest. We 
 climbed up the one on the left, which is but a confused mass of 
 rocks, but in their crevices were many beautiful and sweet- 
 scented flowers. The bottom of the Pass was level and at right 
 angles with Sahwatch valley ; and we had thus far reached 
 twenty-five miles into the mountains, from San Luis valley, 
 without any apparent change of level. Singular as it may ap 
 pear, it is nevertheless a fact that, notwithstanding the distance 
 that we had penetrated into these mountains, had it not been 
 for the course of the waters, it would have been difficult to have 
 determined whether we were ascending or descending. 
 
 A stream issues from Coochatope Pass and joins the Sahwatch; 
 it is called Coochumpah by the Utahs, and Rio de los Cibolos by 
 the Mexicans: both names have the same signification River of 
 buffaloes. Coochatope signifies, in the Utah language, Buffalo 
 gate, and the Mexicans have the same name for it, El Puerto de 
 los Cibolos. The pass and creek are so called, from the large 
 herds of these animals which entered Sahwatch and San Luis 
 valleys through this pass, from the Three Parks and Upper 
 Arkansas, before they were destroyed, or the direction of their 
 migration changed, by the constant warfare carried on against 
 them by Indians and New Mexicans. A few still remain in 
 the mountains, and are described as very wild and savage. We 
 saw a great number of elk-horns scattered through these val 
 leys ; and, from the comparatively fresh 'traces of buffaloes, it 
 
Of Tffli 
 
 'BUTE 
 
 
 
 
St. 
 
FROM COOCHATOPE PASS TO GRAND RIVER. 39 
 
 was evident that many tad visited the pass quite recently. 
 The abundant pasturage and great shelter found here, even in 
 the severest winters, render them a favorite resort at that season 
 for game of every description. Coochatope Pass is travelled at 
 all seasons, and some of our men had repeatedly gone through 
 it in the middle of winter without meeting any serious obstruc 
 tion from snow. Many Utahs winter in the valleys lying within 
 the Sahwatch mountains, where Mexican traders meet them to 
 barter for buckskins and buffalo robes. 
 
 Our Delaware, in commemoration of our arrival at this point, 
 killed a mountain sheep, and soon a dozen sticks were around 
 the fire, on which were roasting pieces of this far-famed meat ; 
 but this was a bad specimen, being both old and tough. Day's 
 travel, 22 miles ; total distance, 808 miles. 
 
 We resumed our journey at 5.30 A. M., and, having travelled 
 two miles, reached the forks of the Coochumpah, taking the 
 west fork up the valley, which here commenced to ascend at an 
 easy grade. The mountain sides were clothed with fine timber, 
 among which were pines, firs, and aspens, and the valley with 
 the most luxuriant grass and clover, this being the first clover 
 we had seen. Around us were scattered numerous elk-horns 
 and buffalo skulls. Eight miles brought us to a remarkable 
 cliff, about one hundred feet in height, which beetled over the 
 trail on our left ; nine miles from the " Gate," we saw the last 
 water flowing east to the Atlantic ; in five minutes we were on 
 the culminating point of the pass, and in ten more crossed the 
 first stream flowing west to the Pacific. It was almost as if we 
 were standing with one foot in waters which found their way to 
 the Gulf of Mexico, and the other in those losing themselves 
 in the Gulf of California. 
 
 In our eagerness to explore this pass to its western outlet, 
 Mr. Beale and I rode far ahead of the remainder of the party. 
 The scenery was grand and beautiful beyond description. Lofty 
 mountains, their summits covered with eternal snows, lifted their 
 heads to the clouds, whilst in our immediate vicinity were softly 
 rounded hills clothed with grass, flowers, and rich meadows, 
 through which numerous rills trickled to join their waters to 
 Coochatope Creek. 
 
 At noon we encamped on this stream, where it had already 
 swollen to a considerable size. It is a tributary of Grand River, 
 
40 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 east fork of the Great Colorado. Near camp was a lofty and 
 steep hill, which I ascended to obtain, a better view of the coun 
 try; one of its principal features was the Coochatope Mountain 
 to the southeast; high, round, and dark with pines. 
 
 We were here compelled, by the necessity that we were under 
 of selecting the shortest route, to go by the trail which takes 
 the most direct course to Grand Kiver, though there was a more 
 circuitous route to the right, leading over a level country, but 
 which would have lengthened the journey by two days. 
 
 Travelled ten miles in the afternoon over a rich rolling country, 
 well timbered and watered, and covered with luxuriant grasses. 
 Saw many deer, antelopes, and mountain sheep. Day's travel, 
 84 miles ; whole distance, 842 miles. 
 
 June 20. The usual cry of ''catch up," set the camp in 
 motion at 5.45 A. M. We travelled twenty -two miles over 
 a rolling country, more hilly than our route of the previous 
 day, and encamped on a rivulet at noon. Our course was 
 south by west. The hill-sides and mountains were still covered 
 with a thick growth of pines and aspens; wild flowers adorned 
 the murmuring streams, and beautified the waving grass. 
 Every few hundred yards we came to one of these purling 
 brooks, the haunt of the timid deer, who bounded away at 
 our approach. To the westward, the Eagle Eange (La Sierra 
 del Aguila), towered high above the surrounding mountains, its 
 summits capped with snow, some patches of which we passed 
 near our trail. Mr. Beale shot a species of grouse, larger than 
 a prairie hen, and caught one of her young. At 5.30 P. M., in 
 five miles from our noon camp, we crossed the two forks of the 
 Jaroso (Willow Creek), a strong stream running into Grand 
 Eiver, not laid down on any map. At 7 P. M. we rested for 
 the night in a valley watered by a small shallow brook, very 
 marshy, and swarming with mosquitos. Our general course 
 this day was southwest. Numbers of deer and antelopes were 
 seen; indeed, these sheltered valleys seem expressly intended 
 as coverts for these gentle animals. 
 
 About a mile before reaching the Jaroso, we crossed a valley 
 where a party of Americans were cruelly murdered by the 
 Utahs, in the spring of this year. Five Americans, and a 
 few Mexicans, were driving sheep to California by this route, 
 and, from some cause which I did not ascertain, a disagree- 
 
'TJSflVBESIT 
 
[UJ] o 
 
FROM COOCHATOPE PASS TO GRAND RIVER. 41 
 
 ment arose between them and a band of Utahs, who were still 
 here in their winter-quarters. The latter forbade their passing 
 through their country, and, placing a row of elk-horns across 
 the valley, threatened them with instant death if they crossed 
 that line. The whites deeming this a vain threat, attempted to 
 force their way through, were attacked, and all killed. The 
 elk-horns were still in the position in which -the Indians had 
 placed them. Our guide, Felipe, had an account of this affair 
 from Utahs who had been actors in the affray. At this point 
 the trail from the Del Norte through the Carnero Pass joins 
 that through the Coochatope. Traders from Abiquiii come by 
 it into these mountains to barter for peltries with the Utahs. 
 Day's travel, 34 miles ; total, 876 miles. 
 
 June 21. Eaised camp at 4.45 A. M. and travelled five miles 
 west by south, crossing a steep and rocky hill covered with 
 pines, and in five miles entered a small valley watered by the 
 Eio cle la Laguna (Lake Creek). This creek issues from a lake 
 near the summit of the Sierra de la Plata (Silver Range), about 
 twelve acres in area ; we found it unfordable on account of its 
 swollen condition from melting snows. Its current was swift 
 and waters turbid, rolling with a loud roar over a rocky bed. 
 It both enters and leaves this valley through narrow and rocky 
 canons ; above the upper one it flows through another valley 
 of larger extent and of great beauty. 
 
 It became a question with us, how our packs were to be trans 
 ported over the laguna without getting them wet or lost, and 
 we at first attempted to make a bridge by felling a tall pine 
 across the stream, but it fell partly into the water, and the cur 
 rent carried it away, tearing it into pieces. This plan having 
 failed, another was adopted, suggested by what Mr. Beale had 
 seen in his travels in Peru, and the mode of crossing the plung 
 ing torrents of the Andes, which was entirely successful. 
 
 Mr. Rogers selected a point where the stream was for some 
 distance free from rocks, and succeeded, after a severe struggle, 
 in swimming across ; and one of the men mounting a stray In 
 dian pony, which we found quietly grazing in the valley, dashed 
 in after him, and also effected a landing on the opposite side. 
 To them a light line was thrown, and having thus established a 
 communication with the other side, a larger rope was drawn 
 over by them, and tied firmly to a rock near the water's edge. 
 4 
 
42 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 The end of the rope on our side was made fast to the top of a 
 pine tree ; a backstay preventing it from bending to the weight 
 of the loads sent over. An iron hook was now passed over the 
 rope, and by means of a sling our packs were suspended to it. 
 The hook slided freely from the top of the tree down to the rock ; 
 and when the load was taken off, we drew" the hook and sling 
 back to our side by a string made fast to it. The last load sent 
 over was our wearing apparel, and just after parting with it, a 
 violent hailstorm broke over us, making us glad to seek shelter 
 from its fury under rocks and trees. Most of the day was thus 
 consumed, and it was not until 5 P. M. that we mounted our 
 mules and swam them across. The water was icy cold, and 
 some of the animals had a narrow escape from drowning. We, 
 however, saddled up immediately, and, proceeding four miles 
 from the creek, encamped for the night in a small hollow. On 
 leaving the Rio de la Laguna, the road ascended a high and 
 steep hill. The country travelled over this day was abundantly 
 grassed, the hills timbered with firs, pines, and aspens, and the 
 streams, shaded with willows. Day's travel, 9 miles ; total, 885 
 miles. 
 
 June 22. "We started soon after sunrise and travelled west 
 by south over steep hills, well timbered and covered with rich 
 grasses. The weather was clear and cold, and wind fresh from 
 the west. Crossed three streams swollen by melting snow : the 
 Rio Hondo (Deep River), the Savoya, and the Pentacigo (Leek 
 Creek). At 10 A. M., in twenty miles from the Rio de la Laguna, 
 we crossed the two forks of the Nawaquasitch (Sheep-tail Creek, 
 Utah language). The Mexicans call it Los Riitos Quartos 
 (Twin Creeks), and the Cola del Carnero (Sheep-tail Creek). 
 We forded it immediately above the junction of the forks. 
 Both were much swollen, and we had same difficulty in cross 
 ing the packs, some of which got wet. A pair of saddle-bags 
 containing many articles of value to us were lost in this crossing. 
 All these streams are mere rivulets a month or two later. En 
 camped at noon on the left bank of the western fork of the 
 Nawaquasitch. 
 
 Started again an hour before sunset, and following down the 
 left bank of the Nawaquasitch until it turned to the northward 
 through a deep canon, left it and directed our course to the 
 westward. The Nawaquasitch empties into Grand River (east 
 
PI. XI. 
 
 P. 42. 
 
FROM COOCHATOPE PASS TO GRAND RIVER. 43 
 
 fork of the Colorado), not far beyond the outlet of this canon. 
 All the streams that we passed this day are tributaries of Grand 
 River, and are not laid down on any. map. 
 
 "We were now approaching the western limits of the Sah- 
 watch Mountains, and continued down a rivulet until it gave 
 out, as it reached the base of the hills. Upon reaching the 
 plain which extends from the foot of the Sahwatch Eange to 
 Grand River, we encamped for the night, having made twenty 
 miles since noon. There was grass in small patches on the 
 brook down which we travelled, and it grew scantier as we 
 approached the plains. This stream dries up entirely in a 
 month or six weeks from this time. 
 
 The Pareamoot Mountains (Elk Mountains, Utah tongue), a 
 range of whose unexplored beauties much had been related to 
 us, loomed up darkly between us and the setting sun. Day's 
 march, 38 miles ; total distance, 923 miles. 
 
 June 23. At an early hour in the morning, Mr. Beale, Felipe 
 Archilete, the Delaware, and I, taking the lead, arrived at the 
 River Uncompagre at 11.10 A. M. We travelled about twelve 
 miles parallel with this river, and found it everywhere a broad 
 rapid stream, entirely too rapid and swift to ford with safety ; 
 we therefore continued down its right bank until we reached 
 Grand River. 
 
 We had been prepared to find Grand River swollen, for its 
 tributaries which we had crossed were all at their highest stage 
 of water ; but we had not anticipated so mighty a stream. It 
 flowed with a loud and angry current, its amber-colored waters 
 roaring sullenly past, laden with the wrecks of trees uprooted 
 by their fury. Sounds like the booming of distant artillery, 
 occasioned by the caving in of its clayey and sandy banks, 
 constantly smote our ears. This fork of the Colorado rises in 
 the Middle Park, and gathers all its head waters in that in- 
 closure, and is described by Fre'mont, .who crossed it there, as 
 being a large river, one hundred and thirty yards wide where 
 it breaks through its mountain rim and flows southwest. Be 
 tween that point and where we approached it, numerous streams 
 contribute their waters to increase its volume ; and where we 
 now stood, anxiously gazing at its flood, it had spread to a 
 breadth of over two hundred and fifty yards. 
 
 As it was evident that this river was nowhere fordable, it 
 
44 CENTKAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 was determined to commence at once the construction of a raft. 
 A place where dead wood was found in abundance was selected 
 for our encampment, and to reach it, it was necessary to cross 
 a broad slough, where the mules sank to their bellies in the 
 mud ; the packs were carried over on our heads. This brought 
 us to an island of loose, rotten soil, covered with grease wood 
 and some coarse grass. "We had no shelter from the sun, which 
 was intensely hot, and the mosquitos and gadflies were per 
 fectly terrific. 
 
 From this point, the Pareamoot Mountains were in full view ; 
 they ranged from the north, and terminated in an abrupt 
 declivity on the western side of Grand Eiver, opposite to the 
 mouth of the Uncompagre. They were described to me as 
 abounding in game, and well timbered; on their plateaux, are 
 fine lakes filled with excellent fish, rich meadows, abundant 
 streams, every natural attraction, in fact, to induce settlement. 
 
 Our guide, Felipe, had spent three years in them, trapping 
 and hunting, and said that there is no richer country on the 
 continent. These mountains are not laid down on any map. 
 Day's travel, 28 miles; total distance, 951 miles. 
 
 June 24. Whilst most of the party were busily occupied in 
 collecting and cutting logs, constructing the raft, and transport 
 ing the packs, saddles, &c., to the point of embarkation, which 
 had to be done in deep mud, and under a scorching sun, others 
 explored the banks of the river, to ascertain whether a place 
 could be found where the cavallade could be crossed over. The 
 river was examined several miles above our encampment, but 
 its banks on our side were everywhere so marshy as to prevent 
 the approach of the mules to the water's edge. At the encamp 
 ment, the ground was firmer, but we feared to drive them into 
 the river at this point, as it was here not only very rapid and 
 broad, but its opposite banks, as far down as we could see, were 
 marshy and covered with a thick jungle, from which our mules, 
 after the exhaustion of swimming across so swift a current, 
 would have been unable to extricate themselves. 
 
 Towards noon the raft was completed, but we were far from 
 feeling confident about crossing at this point. Archilete, who 
 was well acquainted with all the fords and crossing- pi aces, stated 
 that perhaps a better point might be found a few miles below 
 the mouth of the Uncompagre, which flowed into Grand Kiver 
 
FROM COOCHATOPE PASS TO GRAND RIVER. 45 
 
 a short distance below us. As it was evident that it would be 
 risking the entire loss of our animals and packs to attempt to 
 cross them here, it was determined to abandon the raft and 
 to move camp farther down without delay. Everything was 
 again transported to the main shore across the slough. The 
 animals had much difficulty in crossing this place, even with 
 out loads ; with them, they sank hopelessly into the mud, from 
 which it was very difficult to drag them out. 
 
 A more dirty, begrimed, and forlorn looking party was never 
 seen ; we were covered with mud to our waists ; wherever the 
 mosquitos and gadflies could reach our skin they improved 
 the opportunity most industriously, and most of the men were 
 covered with blisters and welts. All cheerfully took a share in 
 this labor, but a volley of execrations was poured on this quag 
 mire, which was appropriately christened the "Slough of De 
 spond." 
 
 Having transported everything to dry land and got the ani 
 mals through the mud, we once more packed them and resumed 
 our journey down the left bank of Grand River until we came 
 to the Uncompagre, a short distance above its mouth. 
 
 The largest animals were here selected to carry the packs 
 across, their feet barely touching the bottom, whilst the strength 
 of the current drove the water over their backs. Some of the 
 men, mounted on horses, led the pack mules, and prevented 
 their being carried down the stream where the water was deeper. 
 One mule, with a valuable pack, having gone in of her own 
 accord, was carried away, lost her foothold and sank, the weight 
 of the pack being too great to allow her to swim; she was swept 
 down the stream with great rapidity, rolling over helplessly 
 until entirely lost to our sight by a bend of the river. Some 
 of the party swam across, and one, benumbed by the coldness 
 of the water, and exhausted by struggling against the stream, 
 would have been drowned had he not been providentially seized 
 just as his strength had entirely failed him. 
 
 We encamped a few miles below the Uncompagre, on the left 
 bank of Grand River, upon a bluff from which we had a fine 
 view of its course, and of the Pareamoot Mountains opposite. 
 Our tormentors, the mosquitos, did not fail to welcome us with 
 a loud buzz, whilst the drone of the gadfly, which might with 
 truth be termed the furia-infernalis of the plains, gave notice 
 
46 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 that he was about, thirsting for our blood. Wherever he inserted 
 his proboscis, the sensation was like that of a redhot darning- 
 needle thrust into the flesh, and was followed by a stream of 
 blood. The mules and horses suffered terribly by these flies. 
 
 Our provisions, by losses in the river and damage by water, 
 were fast diminishing, and it was deemed prudent at this time 
 to put ourselves on a limited allowance, for it was uncertain 
 how long we might be detained in crossing this river, the 
 Avonkaria, and Upper Colorado. 
 
 The pack lost with the mule drowned in the Uncompagre 
 contained many articles of importance to us, besides all our 
 pinole (parched cornmeal), and some of the men lost all their 
 clothing. 
 
 It was late when we got to camp, and after a day of toil, ex 
 posure, and annoyance, nothing more could be done than to 
 select the tree out of which to make a canoe, and the place to 
 launch it ; for all idea of crossing on a raft was abandoned. A 
 few miles below the encampment the river was shut in by a 
 canon, towards which it dove with great swiftness ; a raft carried 
 into it would have been torn to pieces in a moment, without 
 a chance for the men on it to save their lives. Day's travel, 5 
 miles ; total, 956 miles. 
 
 June 25. At early dawn most of the party commenced work 
 ing on the canoe ; their only tools were two dull axes and two 
 hatchets. A large cottonwood tree was felled for this purpose, 
 and it was hoped to have the canoe finished the next day. The 
 wood, being green and full of sap, was hard to cut, and so heavy 
 that chips of it sank when thrown into the water. 
 
 The river still maintained the same level, and the bottom 
 land was overflowed and marshy. The high lands on which 
 we were encamped were composed of a loose, rotten soil, pro 
 ducing no vegetation except stunted sage bushes. The only 
 game we had seen for two days was an occasional sage rabbit, so 
 called from its flesh having a strong flavor of the wild sage 
 (artemisia), on which it feeds. The sun was very hot and mos- 
 quitos tormenting ; we removed our camp to the bluff's in the 
 hope of avoiding them, but with little success. 
 
 At this point, the general course of the river was parallel 
 with the Pareamoot Mountains, from northeast to southwest. 
 
FROM COOCHATOPE PASS TO GRAND RIVER. 47 
 
 The latter appeared to rise in terraces, upon which much timber 
 could be seen. 
 
 The work on the canoe was continued steadily all day, though 
 some of the party entertained grave doubts about crossing in it; 
 besides, the two rivers beyond Grand Eiver were said to be 
 larger and their current swifter than this. Archilete stated that 
 he had never seen the river so high, and that it was owing to 
 the unusual quantity of snow which had fallen in the mountains 
 during last winter. The wind rose at ten o'clock and blew with 
 violence until sunset, which relieved us in a measure from the 
 torment of mosquitos, but they returned in fresh swarms as 
 soon as it lulled. 
 
 June 26. Opposite to our encampment was old " Fort Rou- 
 bideau," now abandoned and in ruins. It was formerly a trad 
 ing post belonging to the brothers Eoubideau, of St. Louis, 
 Missouri, who carried on a lucrative trade with the Utahs for 
 peltries. 
 
 Beavers are quite numerous on all these rivers, and have 
 greatly multiplied of late years since the demand for their furs 
 has diminished. 
 
 The canoe was completed at noon, and a fire was kindled in 
 and around it to dry it. At 4 P. M., the first load went over 
 with the Delaware and Archilete. Everything had to be car 
 ried to the water's edge through a thick jungle, knee deep in 
 mud, and under a broiling sun. 
 
 They reached the opposite side safely, although the current 
 carried them some distance down the stream. The canoe was 
 found to be very heavy, and easy to upset. Archilete, Juan 
 Lente, and myself went with the second load, reached the other 
 side, and, after unloading, dragged the canoe some distance up 
 stream to enable Archilete, who was to take it back, to make a 
 landing at the point where the packs were deposited. Two 
 more of the men crossed with the next load, and Archilete 
 returned in the canoe to the left bank for the night. 
 
 We were now four persons on the right bank of the stream, 
 with the prospect of getting the rest of the party and packs 
 across at an early hour the next day. We retired to some dry 
 land about half a mile from the river, and carried to it the few 
 things that had been brought over. Just before dark, Dick, 
 the Delaware, made his appearance in camp, dripping wet, and 
 
48 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 reported that he had just swam across with some of the mules ; 
 that after getting all into the water most of them had turned 
 back, while three mules and one horse, having reached the right 
 bank, had sunk into the mud, from which he had been unable 
 to relieve them. We immediately went down to the water's 
 edge with ropes, and with great difficulty got the horse out of 
 his bed of mud, but found it impossible to extricate the rnules. 
 We were compelled to leave the poor animals in their forlorn 
 situation until the morning, when we hoped to get them on dry 
 land. 
 
 June 27. Eose at dawn, and our first business was to get the 
 mules out of their dangerous predicament, by cutting bushes 
 and spreading them around the mired animals, thus rendering 
 the ground sufficiently firm to support their weight. 
 
 At an early hour, a signal was made to us from the other 
 side that the canoe was about starting to cross. We therefore 
 went down to the river side to receive its load. In a few 
 minutes she made her appearance, driving rapidly down the 
 stream. She was heavily loaded, barely four inches of her 
 gunwale being above the water's edge. Felipe Archilete, a 
 strong and active fellow, was paddling, whilst George Simms 
 was crouched in the bow of the boat. They were unable to 
 reach the point where previous landings had been effected, and 
 were soon shut from our sight by trees and tangled bushes, 
 growing close to the water. In a few seconds we heard the 
 most alarming cries for help, and upon rushing to the spot 
 from which these cries proceeded, found Archilete and George 
 just emerging from the water, nearly exhausted with their 
 struggles. 
 
 It appears that upon approaching the bank and grasping 
 some small limbs of trees overhanging the water, the latter 
 broke, whereupon one of the men, becoming alarmed, attempted 
 to jump from the boat to the shore, causing it immediately to 
 upset. They were both thrown into the stream, which here 
 ran with a strong current, and it was with difficulty that they 
 reached the shore. I immediately called to one of the men 
 who was standing near the horse, to gallop down the river's 
 edge, and by swimming him into the middle of the stream to 
 endeavor to reach the canoe should it make its appearance. 
 But it was never seen again, nor did we recover any of the 
 
FROM COOCHATOPE PASS TO GRAND RIVEE. 49 
 
 articles with which it was loaded. We lost by this accident 
 seven rifles, nearly all our ammunition, pistols, saddles, corn- 
 meal, coffee, sugar, blankets, &c. 
 
 With broken axes and dull hatchets it would have been 
 difficult if not impossible to have constructed another canoe ; 
 and, besides, the men were too much discouraged by this loss 
 to undertake the labor with the spirit necessary to carry it 
 through. 
 
 Our party was equally divided; we were seven on each side. 
 Some of the gentlemen on the left bank were now anxious to 
 return to New Mexico to proceed to California by some other 
 route ; but Mr. Beale would not listen for a moment to such 
 proposition. He hailed me at eight o'clock, and told me that 
 as soon as he could construct a raft, and get the few remaining 
 things and the animals over, we would push on for the Mormon 
 settlements near the Yegas de Santa Clara. Expedition was 
 necessary, for we had provisions for only four or five days. 
 
 The Delaware swam back to Mr. Beale's side to assist him 
 to construct a raft or canoe. He was a splendid swimmer, and 
 went through the water like an otter. They immediately com 
 menced the construction of another canoe, but both axes being 
 broken, they soon had to relinquish the task as hopeless. 
 
 An inventory was made of the provisions, and it was found 
 that we had twenty-five pounds of biscuit, mostly in dust, 
 twenty-five pounds of dried venison, and ten pounds of bacon. 
 Although this was but slender provision for fourteen hungry 
 men, we had no fear of starvation, or even of suffering, as long 
 as we had the mules. I also discovered in an old bag a small 
 supply of powder and lead, and some chocolate and tobacco. 
 A canister of meat-biscuit, upon which we had depended in case 
 of an emergency of this sort, had unfortunately gone down 
 with the canoe. 
 
 At an early hour in the morning, we saw flying from a tree 
 on the left bank, the preconcerted signal to "come down for a 
 talk." To reach the river, we had to wade for half a mile 
 through a deep marsh, into which we sank to our knees, and 
 the air was thick with mosquitos. 
 
 Mr. Beale informed me that it had been decided to return to 
 Taos for supplies, and inquired whether we could get back to 
 the left bank. As two of the men on my side stated that they 
 
50 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 could not swim, it was decided to make a raft, and, if possible, 
 to save the articles we had with us. Before this was deter 
 mined upon, however, Mr. Beale ordered Archilete to swim 
 over to his side, which the latter did at once, taking his timber 
 leg under his urm ; and in the afternoon they made another 
 ineffectual attempt to get the animals across. There was but 
 one point where it was possible to drive them into the river, 
 and here they crowded in on each other until those underneath 
 were near drowning. Mr. Beale and one of the men, who were 
 riding, went into the river to lead the band across. The mules 
 fell on them from the bank, which was at this place about three 
 feet high, and for a moment they were in imminent danger of 
 being crushed. An old horse alone struck boldly over, but 
 none of the other animals followed his example. They all got 
 out on the same side, and could not be again driven into the 
 water. 
 
 Mr. Beale now desired me to make arrangements for return 
 ing to his side of the river, and while preparing the animals to 
 move down to our camping ground, I thought I heard a faint 
 shout, and at the same time perceiving two dark objects moving 
 in the water, some distance up the stream, I suspected that they 
 were men from the opposite shore endeavoring to reach land 
 on our side. The current was carrying them swiftly on towards 
 a high bank overhanging the stream, where, without help, to 
 have effected a landing would have been impossible. 
 
 Hastily seizing a rope, and calling to the men to follow, I 
 ran to the top of the cliff. In fact, they were our two best 
 swimmers, Dick and Felipe, who were scarcely able to keep 
 their hold until ropes could be led down to them. We drew 
 them up half perished, and it required a good fire and some 
 thing stimulating to restore circulation to their limbs, benumbed 
 by the icy coldness of the water. Although we had no sugar, 
 some coffee, that the Delaware had brought, tied in a handker 
 chief on his head,' cheered the men, and we passed a good night, 
 happy in any rest after such a day of toil. 
 
 June 29. At an early hour in the morning, I commenced 
 throwing into the river everything that we could possibly dis 
 pense with, such as clothing, &c. I allowed each man to select 
 sufficient clothes from the general stock to make up one suit, 
 and it was singular how soon their wants increased. Some of 
 
FROM COOCHATOPE PASS TO GRAND RIVER. 51 
 
 the Mexicans, who heretofore had been satisfied with one shirt 
 and a pair of pants, now arrayed themselves in as many 
 breeches, drawers, shirts, and stockings as they could force them 
 selves into. I cached, under a thick bush, a few Indian goods 
 that we had brought with us as presents. 
 
 The three mules and two horses were passed over to the left 
 shore without much difficulty by pushing them into the water 
 from a bank, whence the eddy immediately carried them into 
 the middle of the stream. They got out safely on the other 
 side, and we at once commenced constructing the raft. 
 
 It was completed at 1 P. M., and, although it was twelve feet 
 in length by eight in breadth, the weight of seven men, with 
 the saddles, arms, and provisions we had saved, caused it to 
 sink eighteen inches under water. It drifted rapidly down 
 the stream, the men whooping and yelling, until one struck 
 up the old song of " Susannah !" when the rest sang the 
 chorus. In this style, we fell upwards of two miles down the 
 river, propelling ourselves with rough paddles. Mr. Beale and 
 others of the party stood on a hill on the opposite side cheering 
 and waving their hats. Having approached within ten yards 
 of the left bank, our tritons, Dick and Archilete, sprang, into 
 the water, with ropes in their teeth, and reaching the shore 
 soon dragged the raft to the bank, upon which the remainder of 
 the crew landed. 
 
52 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 JOURNEY OF MR. HEAP TO NEW MEXICO AND BACK. 
 
 MR. BEALE'S SEPARATE JOURNAL. 
 
 No time was lost in collecting and saddling the animals, and 
 our packs being reduced from eleven to three, they were soon 
 loaded. Those whose saddles went down with the canoe used 
 their blankets instead, and at four P. M. we started to return to 
 New Mexico. The defeat which we had sustained at Grand 
 River, and the consequent delay, caused some of the party to 
 be in low spirits ; but regrets were useless ; we determined to 
 return again, and so well provided as to prevent a second 
 failure. We now measure back. Day's trave], 8 miles ; dis 
 tance from Grand River, 8 miles. 
 
 June 30. We were in our saddles at sunrise, for the lightness 
 of our baggage occasioned no waste of time in packing. Those 
 of the party who had lost their blankets passed a cold night 
 under their saddle-cloths. Our breakfast consisted of a few 
 spoonfuls of atole (cornmeal mush), washed down with coffee 
 without sugar ; and although the repast was far from palatable, 
 we found it wholesome and filling, a property which was to 
 us of much importance. The mules had been much harassed 
 by the various attempts made to drive them across the river, 
 and by the mosquitos and gadflies ; yet they had picked up both 
 flesh and spirit, and appeared happy to be treading once more on 
 dry land, where they were not exposed to the momentary danger 
 of sinking into a mudhole. We therefore travelled rapidly, 
 and at 3.30 P. M. reached the Nawaquasitch, forty-three miles 
 from our last encampment. It was here that we had previously 
 experienced some difficulty in crossing, and where a pair of 
 saddle-bags, containing many articles of value to us, were lost. 
 The road during the day was the same which we had before 
 
JOURNEY OF MR. HEAP TO NEW MEXICO. 53 
 
 travelled in going to Grand River; the face of the country was 
 generally perfectly level, offering to our view but little of 
 interest until we reached the foot-hills of the Sahwatch range, 
 which we entered by a narrow valley, watered by a small rivu 
 let. This we followed up about twenty miles, the country 
 rapidly improving in beauty and fertility as we advanced in 
 to the mountains. "We this time crossed the Nawaquasitch 
 below the forks, and followed up its right bank about two 
 miles. All around us the hills and mountains were covered 
 with rich verdure ; beautiful copses and groups of trees diver 
 sified the scenery, giving it the appearance of a settled country, 
 only wanting dwellings to render it a perfect picture of rural 
 beauty. 
 
 As the grass.at this place was rich and nutritious, timber 
 abundant, and fine streams irrigated every valley, it was selected 
 by Mr. Beale for an encampment, where he would await my 
 return from New Mexico with fresh supplies. Wagner, Young, 
 Dick Brown (the Delaware), and Felipe Archilete, Jr., would 
 remain with him, and I was to take Felipe Archilete, Sr. (Peg- 
 leg,) as guide ; and was also accompanied by those of the party 
 who preferred going the longer route to California, via Fort 
 Laramie and Great Salt Lake, to risking another encounter 
 with Grand River and the unknown hardships beyond. Day's 
 travel, 43 miles ; distance from Grand River, 51 miles. 
 
 July 1. It was not until eight o'clock that I started from Mr. 
 Beale's camp on the Nawaquasitch. He and the men who 
 remained with him had many letters to write, which caused 
 some detention. We left them with regret, for who could 
 foresee what might happen to their little party in this lonely 
 region, particularly as the season was approaching when the 
 Indians would be returning here from buffalo-hunting? In 
 addition to other causes for anxiety, we had but a small store of 
 provisions, consisting of sour cornmeal and coffee, which, when 
 divided between the two parties, gave to each barely enough 
 for three days' subsistence. The Delaware had gone out hunt 
 ing at an early hour, and, as we lost sight of the camp, we saw 
 him descending a mountain at some distance with a deer behind 
 his saddle, which he was carrying into Mr. Beale's camp. 
 
 The Rio de la Laguna (Willow Creek), where we had lost 
 nearly a day in crossing our packs, had fallen slightly, and, as 
 
54: CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 we had now but little that could be injured by water, we lode 
 our mules across without stopping. At 6 P. M. we reached 
 Eio Jaroso (Willow Creek), where the trail leading to the Puerto 
 del Carnero (Mountain-sheep Pass) branches off to the south 
 ward from that to the Coochatope Pass. 
 
 This trail leads into San Luis valley by a shorter route than 
 that by the Coochatope, and as it would give me the opportunity 
 of examining a region and pass entirely unknown except to 
 Indians, and Mexicans trading with them, I selected it for our 
 passage through the Sahwatch range. I consider it a fortunate 
 circumstance that I came to this determination, for the pass 
 through which we went proved to be, in many respects, superior 
 even to the Coochatope. 
 
 When we diverged to the right to take this trail, we com 
 menced ascending a long and narrow gorge, which led us by an 
 ea^y grade to the summit of a hill, where we encamped at 7 P. M. 
 near an abundant spring. It would be needless repetition 
 to mention again the luxuriance of the grass which covered the 
 valleys, hill-sides, and mountains, for all through the Sahwatch 
 range the country maintains the same rich and fertile character. 
 
 Our last meal was in the morning, and consisted of a ball of 
 dough, which to some bore a fancied resemblance to the old 
 Virginia hoe-cake. The soothing effects of this delicious morsel 
 on our stomachs had for many hours passed away and been 
 forgotten, so that when we gathered around the camp-fire to 
 partake of a soup of grouse shot by Peg-leg, nine men more 
 hungry it would have been difficult to find. We saw during 
 the day many deer and antelopes, but the only rifle in the com 
 pany was Peg-leg's, and it had been so much damaged as to 
 render it almost useless for a long shot. Day's travel, 40 miles ; 
 distance from Grand Eiver, 91 miles. 
 
 July 2. I passed a miserable night ;, it was cold and frosty, 
 with a piercing north wind. My saddle-blanket was the only 
 covering I had, and it was worn so -thin and threadbare that it 
 imparted scarcely any warmth. We saddled up and started at 
 sunrise, directing our course nearly due east. The trail led 
 over a mountain covered with thick pine forests, interspersed 
 with rich meadows, and watered by numerous clear rills, until 
 we reached a portion of the range where a hurricane or whirl 
 wind had, some years ago, uprooted and strewed in every direc- 
 
JOURNEY OF MR. HEAP TO NEW MEXICO. 5o 
 
 tion a forest of tall pine trees. Through this tangled mass we 
 forced our way with difficulty, but finally got through and com 
 menced a gradual descent on the eastern side of the range. 
 
 Peg-leg and myself were riding at a distance in advance of 
 the rest of the party, when, upon crossing the summit of a hill, 
 we suddenly -found ourselves in the midst of a large flock of 
 tame goats, behind which was a band of fifty mounted Utahs, 
 to whom they belonged. The Indians immediately gathered 
 around us and overwhelmed us with questions ; but were civil, 
 and seemed light-hearted and merry. Most of the men had 
 good rifles, and 'their horses were all in fine condition. My 
 first thought upon meeting these Indians was the possibility of 
 replenishing our exhausted larder with dried meat, and Peg-leg 
 no sooner informed them that we had been on short commons 
 for several days than they dismounted, unpacked their animals, 
 and from their store presented me with a plentiful supply of 
 dried buffalo, deer, and antelope flesh. Men, women, and chil 
 dren crowded around my mule, each handing me a parcel of 
 meat ; and, although it was apparent that they expected nothing 
 in return, I gave them as good a supply of tobacco, powder, lead, 
 and percussion caps as I could spare ; but nothing delighted them 
 so much as a box of lucifer matches ; for, having shown them 
 that by a simple friction they might produce a blaze, their joy 
 was great, and each member of the band was eager to perform 
 the feat of kindling a fire. 
 
 A garrulous old Indian, who wore, by way of distinction, a 
 " Genin" hat, sorely battered and bruised, and which had become 
 the property of this venerable Utah by one of those reverses 
 of fortune to which hats are so liable, addressed us a harangue 
 accompanied by many gestures. Peg-leg translated his mean 
 ing to me, which was to the effect, that they had been unsuc 
 cessful in the buffalo hunt, on which they depended in a great 
 measure for their subsistence ; that they had been many months 
 in the buffalo country, bul^ the treacherous Cheyennes and 
 Arapahoes, had driven them off, and had killed some of their 
 young men. He added, that of dried antelope and deer meat 
 they ha.d a plenty, and that we were welcome to as much as 
 we needed. This unexpected generosity made me regret that 
 it was out of my power to make them a suitable return, and I 
 explained to them, that our losses in Grand Kiver had deprived 
 
56 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 us of the means of making them presents. He replied that what 
 I had already given was quite sufficient. 
 
 Our party had by this time overtaken us, but fearing that the 
 " amicable relations so happily existing" might be disturbed, I 
 desired them not to stop, retaining only a pack animal to load 
 with the meat which I had obtained. 
 
 With these Indians were many squaws and children. The 
 former rode astride of the packs, and the boys, some of whom 
 were not more than five years of age, were mounted on spirited 
 horses, which they managed with much dexterity and grace, and 
 were armed with small bows and arrows, two of which they held 
 with the bow in their left hand ready for service. The chiefs 
 invited us to encamp with them, that they might treat us with 
 goats' milk and have a " talk ;" but I considered it most prudent 
 to separate from them before any cause of disagreement should 
 arise to mar the good understanding that existed between us ; 
 besides, it was too early in the day for us to stop. I told them 
 that, in the direction in which they were going, they would 
 meet some of our friends whom we had left for a short time, 
 and that on our return we would bring them tobacco and other 
 presents. They promised to treat our friends well, and, after a 
 general shaking of hands, we parted mutually pleased with each 
 other. 
 
 We encamped at noon on a fork of Sahwatch Creek, running 
 to the eastward through a broad grassy valley, and after a rest 
 of two hours resumed our journey. We had not proceeded far 
 when we noticed at a short distance to our right a singular-look 
 ing object, which appeared to be rolling rather than walking 
 over the ground. On approaching it, it proved to be a decrepit 
 Utah squaw, bending under the weight of two packs of buffalo 
 robes, one of which she bore on her shoulders, whilst the other 
 was suspended in front. She was much terrified when we 
 galloped towards her, and, although she made a feeble attempt 
 to fly, her shaking limbs bent under her, and she sank to the 
 ground paralyzed with fear. We, however, reassured her, and 
 got her to explain to us the cause of her being in this lonely 
 region by herself, Archilete being interpreter. She told us 
 that, three moons previous, a party of her people going to hunt 
 buffaloes, had left her and another old woman in the mountains ; 
 as neither had horses, and they were unable to keep up with 
 
JOURNEY OF MR. HEAP TO NEW MEXICO. 57 
 
 the band on foot. She said that they had subsisted on meat 
 left them by their tribe, and ended by telling us that she had 
 just buried her companion, who had died the previous night, 
 and that she was now on her way to the summer' rendezvous of 
 her people, ladened with her own and her companion's packs. 
 We informed her that she would probably overtake a band of 
 Utahs that night or the next day, and placed her on their trail. 
 She seemed glad to receive this news, and still more so when 
 we turned our mules' heads to leave her, though we had shown 
 her all possible kindness so hard is it in them to believe in 
 the sincerity of white people. 
 
 The trail led over low hills and down a succession of beauti 
 ful slopes, running mostly in a southerly direction, until we 
 entered a narrow winding valley two and a half miles in length 
 by one hundred-to two hundred yards in breadth. It was shut 
 in on each side by perpendicular walls of rock rising from fifty 
 to seventy-five feet above the level of the valley, whose surface 
 was flat and carpeted with tender grass. A stream of clear 
 water meandered through its centre, and the grade was so slight 
 that the stream, overflowing its banks in many places, moistened 
 the whole surface. 
 
 As we descended this beautiful and singular valley, we occa 
 sionally passed others of a similar character opening into it. It 
 ends in Sahwatch valley, which we entered about an hour be 
 fore sunset. 
 
 We had here the choice of two routes : the first was down 
 Sahwatch valley to its outlet near the head of the valley of San 
 Luis, which would have taken us over the same ground that 
 we had traversed in coming from Fort Massachusetts; the second 
 crossed Sahwatch valley here, passed over a shorter and as good 
 a route, and entered San Luis valley near where the Garita leaves 
 the mountains. We selected the last route. 
 
 Coochatope Pass enters Sahwatch Valley a mile below Car- 
 nero Pass. Crossing Sahwatch valley, here half a mile broad, 
 and the creek about ten yards in breadth and three feet in depth, 
 we travelled up a narrow valley for a short distance into the 
 hills, and encamped at dark. Day's travel, 47 miles ; distance 
 from Grand Eiver, 138 miles. 
 
 July 3. During the early part of the night the mosquitos 
 swarmed around us, but it soon became cold, which drove them 
 
58 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 away. "We were delayed some time after sunrise in consequence 
 of most of the mules having gone astray ; they were not re 
 covered until near seven o'clock, when we resumed our journey. 
 Our course was generally east, down a succession of valleys, 
 whose surface was level and moist, with hills rising abruptly on 
 either side. "We saw a great abundance of game, but killed 
 nothing but a grouse. These mountains teem with antelope, 
 deer, and mountain sheep. 
 
 The valleys down which we travelled, and which opened into 
 each other with the regularity of streets, grew gradually broader 
 as we descended. We finally entered one watered by Carnero 
 Creek, which joins the Garita in San Luis valley, and at noon 
 encamped a short distance above a gate or gap through which 
 the stream passes. Half a mile below this gap there is another, 
 and a quarter of a mile farther a third ; the passage through 
 them is level, whilst the trail around them is steep and stony. 
 In the afternoon, we went through the first gap, made a circuit 
 around the second, as it was much obstructed with trees and 
 bushes, and, leaving the third on our left, rode over some low 
 hills, and five miles from camp crossed the Garita. We were 
 once more in San Luis valley, and all before us was a perfect 
 level, as far' as the sight could reach. We encamped on the 
 Rio Grande del Norte, as the sun was setting behind the pass 
 in the Sierra de San Juan, at the head of the Del Norte. This 
 pass was in sight of us, and is the one in which Colonel Fre 
 mont met with so terrible a disaster in the winter of 1848-49, 
 so near was he to the object of his search, the Coochatope. 
 
 From the plains this pass appears to be more practicable than 
 either the Carnero or the Coochatope ; but it can be traversed 
 only by mules, and by them only from the middle of August 
 until the first snows fall, early in December. In winter it is im 
 passable, and in spring, and until August, the Eiver Del Norte, 
 which flows through part of it, and is swollen with melting 
 snows, is the principal obstruction. This pass is known to the 
 Mexicans as the Puerto del Rio Del Norte (the Pass of the River 
 DelNorte), but Americans call it Williams's Pass, inhonorof " Old 
 Bill Williams," who discovered it, and was Colonel Fremont's 
 guide. Through it is the shortest road to Grand River, it being 
 one day shorter than by the Carnero, and nearly two days shorter 
 than by the Coochatope. The hills, for, as they appeared to us 
 
JOURNEY OF MR. HEAP TO NEW MEXICO. 59 
 
 from the plains they cannot be called mountains, seem broken 
 and rugged, and appear to have numerous passages between 
 them, whilst the mountains, in which are found the Carnero and 
 Coochatope Passes, exhibit from the plains 'no point where a 
 pass might be supposed to exist. Day's travel, 48 miles ; dis 
 tance from Grand River, 186 miles. 
 
 Fourth of July. We built large fires during the night, hoping 
 to drive away the mosquitos by the smoke; but, the wind 
 being from the river, as fast as we got rid of one swarm another 
 made its appearance. Notwithstanding our long ride of the 
 preceding day, we got but little sleep, and were glad to catch 
 up at early dawn. We followed down the left bank of the 
 Rio del Norte, crossing numerous esteros (sloughs), until 1 P. M., 
 when we encamped at the same spot where we had passed the 
 first night out from Fort Massachusetts. We had made forty- 
 five miles since morning, and had travelled so rapidly that 
 the pack animals did not get into camp until an hour later. 
 
 This being the anniversary of our country's birthday, and 
 not having sufficient food for more than one scanty meal, we 
 had dispensed with breakfast in order to celebrate the occasion 
 at noon with all the proper honors. Some bitter corn meal 
 and a few scraps of antelope meat, which had been so often 
 culled that what remained consisted of the shreds of sinews, 
 constituted our bill of fare. As soon as the banquet was ended, 
 I started with the intention of reaching the settlements on the 
 Culebra, a distance of about forty miles, that night. As a dis 
 tinct trail led to these hamlets, the party could follow without 
 a guide, and I therefore took Peg-leg with me. They were to 
 encamp- that night on Trinchera Creek, a pretty brook five 
 miles from our noon camp, fringed with willows, and where 
 they would find abundant pasturage. 
 
 After riding eight hours at a steady pace over a plain, I arrived 
 at midnight at a small village on the Culebra, inhabited by 
 Mexicans. The night was warm and cairn, and from the Trin 
 chera clouds of mosquitos filled the air. Both we and our 
 mules were much fatigued, having travelled eighty-five miles 
 since morning, after a ride of four days through the mountains 
 at the rate of from forty to forty-eight miles each day. 
 
 I was invited into one of the huts, where a couple of women 
 commenced at once baking tortillas (thin cakes of dough baked 
 
60 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 on a piece of sheet-iron) and boiling goats' milk with salt. A 
 sheep was killed, and a plentiful supply of tortillas baked to be 
 ready for our party in the morning, and I directed one of the 
 Mexicans to start at early dawn to meet and guide them in. 
 
 My blanket was spread on the floor near the fireplace, 
 though I was invited to share a bed made of hides stretched on 
 a rough frame, and filling two-thirds of the room, already occu 
 pied by three men, two women, two girls, and four children, 
 all more or less en deshabille. Day's travel, 85 miles ; total 
 from Grand Eiver, 271 miles. 
 
 July 5. Before daybreak the house was invaded by lambs, 
 kids, and pigs, and all farther attempts at sleep were vain. 
 Glad to escape from their noise, I got a horse and rode to the 
 upper hamlets on the Culebra. The valley here spreads out 
 in a meadow, a perfect sea of verdure, several thousand acres 
 in extent, on which were numerous herds of cattle and horses. 
 The whole valley of the Culebra is at times rendered almost 
 uninhabitable by the mosquitos, which are particularly trou 
 blesome around the lower settlements, and the natives keep up 
 constant fires, in the smoke of which both they and their cattle 
 seek protection against the common enemy. 
 
 Having concluded the necessary arrangements for leaving at 
 this pasturage the animals we had brought with us from the 
 Nawaquasitch, I started with Felipe, on hired horses, for the 
 Costilla, twenty miles distant, where we passed the night. Cos- 
 tilla Creek has its source in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, 
 on the east of the valley of the Bio del Norte, into which its 
 waters flow. On its banks are numerous farms, which are skil 
 fully irrigated, but in other respects are cultivated very care 
 lessly by the Mexicans ; however, their crops, consisting of 
 wheat, corn, beans, and peas, gave promise of better results 
 than those on the Culebra. These settlements are new; the 
 houses, although of adobes, are well built, and the people quiet 
 and industrious. They are mostly peons (bondsmen) to wealthy 
 landowners residing in Taos, and but few own the soil they 
 cultivate. They enjoy the blessing denied their neighbors, of 
 being entirely exempt from the annoyance of mosquitos, for 
 those exposed constantly to this evil can alone form a concep 
 tion of the misery it occasions. Day's travel, 20 miles ; total 
 distance, 291 miles. 
 
JOUKNEY OF MR. HEAP TO NEW MEXICO. 61 
 
 July 6. To secure an early start, and to prevent our animals 
 from trespassing upon the cultivated fields, none of which are 
 inclosed, a man was engaged to watch them whilst at pasture 
 during the night; but my horse having been allowed to escape, 
 it was not until after sunrise that I could procure another. 
 A ride of twenty-two miles brought us to the Colorado (Red 
 River), our road taking us across three small streams (Las 
 Ladillas), on the borders of which were extensive sheep ranchos. 
 The Colorado is formed by the junction of two abundant 
 streams, which issue from deep canons in lofty and abruptly 
 rising mountains. The valley of the Colorado is about three 
 miles in length by one in breadth, and the Colorado River, 
 having passed it, flows through a deep channel in the plain, and 
 unites its waters to those of the Del Norte. The valley presents 
 a beautiful view, and, being abundantly irrigated by means of 
 acequias (canals), every acre of it is under cultivation. The 
 village of the Colorado consists of one hundred adobe houses, 
 built to form a quadrangle, with their doors and windows pre 
 senting upon the square inside. 
 
 Mr. Charles Otterby, a Missourian, long domiciliated in New 
 Mexico, invited me to his house and procured me a fresh horse, 
 as the one I had ridden from the Costilla (a distance of twenty- 
 two miles) in two hours and a half, had broken down. I left 
 Colorado at noon, and, travelling twelve miles across a mount 
 ain, over a rough and stony road, I reached the Rio IJondo 
 (Deep Creek), which is so called from its channel being sunk 
 in many places far below the level of the plain ; for the stream 
 itself is neither deep nor broad. I here engaged a young 
 American, Thomas Otterby, to go with us to California, he 
 having a reputation almost equal to Kit Carson's for bravery, 
 dexterity with his rifle, and skill in mountain life. I also pur 
 chased a mule to replace my unshod and sore-footed horse, and 
 rode to Taos, nine miles beyond, across a level plain, arriving 
 there at 3 P. M. 
 
 Mr. St. Vrain, for whom I had a letter, being absent from 
 Taos, I was hospitably received by his lady. I immediately 
 called on Mr. Leroux, who had a few days previous returned 
 from Fort Atkinson in improved health. Making known to 
 him the accident which had befallen us at Grand River, and 
 stating our wants, I obtained, with his assistance, the supplies 
 we needed. Raw hides were procured and sewed together, to 
 
62 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 be used as boats for crossing rivers. Corn was parched to 
 make pinole (parched and pounded corn meal, sweetened), coffee 
 roasted, &c. 
 
 San Fernando de Taos is situated in the centre of a broad 
 plain, watered by two or three small brooks, whose waters are 
 entirely absorbed in the irrigation of the lands around the town. 
 It presents, both within and without, a poor appearance ; its 
 low earth-colored houses, scattered irregularly about, look dingy 
 and squalid, though within many of them are comfortable ; and 
 they are all well adapted to the climate. The town is surrounded 
 with uninclosed fields, very fertile when irrigated, and the Taos 
 wheat, originally obtained from the wild wheat growing spon 
 taneously on the Santa Clara and the Eio de la Virgen, has ob 
 tained a wide reputation. In the vicinity of San Fernando de 
 Taos are several hamlets the Pueblo de Taos, inhabited by 
 the Taos Indians, a quiet and inoffensive race, and good field 
 laborers ; La Placita de Taos, El Rancho, El Ranchito, &c. Six 
 miles to the southwest was a United States dragoon camp, from 
 which the troops were absent, they having marched to Abiquiu 
 in consequence of troubles with the Navajo Indians. Day's 
 travel, 43 miles; total distance from Grand River to Taos, 333 
 miles. 
 
 Return from Taos to Grand River ; and we now measure the dis 
 tance back from Taos. 
 
 July 11. Having concluded my purchases, which delayed 
 me longer than had been anticipated (for everything had to be 
 made or prepared for our use), I sent off late on the 8th a wagon 
 containing the supplies, and two men with the mules, to meet 
 me at the Culebra, where I would overtake them. Starting the 
 next day I passed them at Rio Colorado on the 10th, and arrived 
 at the Culebra a day ahead of my party. From the time of our 
 arrival in Taos, Peg-leg had been surrounded by his friends 
 and boon companions, relating to them his late exploits on 
 Grand River, and his frequent libations to Bacchus, in wretched 
 Taos brandy, had rendered him incapable of keeping his seat on 
 horseback. I left him practising the Apache warwhoop in 
 the square of Taos, and I did not see him again until the wagon 
 and men had arrived at the Culebra, and I was prepared to de 
 part. He then made his appearance, looking very sick, un 
 happy, and repentant. 
 
RETURN TO GRAND RIVER. 63 
 
 The men I had hired were Thomas Otterby, Jose* Galliego, 
 an old mountaineer who had been to California with Colonel 
 Fremont, and was well recommended as guide and bull-hide boat 
 builder, and Juan Cordova, a Mexican arriero (muleteer). We 
 numbered in all five. 
 
 Messrs. Kiggs and Rogers with their party remained at Taos, 
 intending to pursue their journey to California via Fort Laramie 
 and Great Salt Lake. 
 
 "We saddled up shortly before sunset, and encamped nine 
 miles below on the Culebra, to get our packs in order for an 
 early start on the morrow. The first day with a train of pack 
 mules is always a troublesome one ; the animals are new, the 
 men have not learned their dispositions and qualities, the har 
 ness does not fit, and it is necessary to make many changes, 
 which occasion delay. My day's ride was 61 miles, back from 
 Taos. 
 
 July 12. Eaised camp at five and travelled until noon, when 
 we encamped on the slough of the Del Norte, where we had 
 already been three times. We fortunately had filled our leather 
 canteens at the Trinchera, for we found the water here no longer 
 drinkable. The sun was intensely hot, and our old friends, the 
 mosquitos, did not fail to find us out. We stopped for the night 
 on the Del Norte, eighteen miles farther OD, where we shot 
 several wild geese, which we found here in great numbers. Day's 
 travel, 40 miles ; distance fr6m Taos, 101 miles. 
 
 July 13. Although I was up many times during the night, 
 looking after the mules, and had them all picketed in thick 
 grass, three succeeded in drawing their picket-pins and went off 
 in the direction of Fort Massachusetts. After a chase of ten 
 miles they were brought back, and we started at 6 30 A. M. 
 Encamped on the Garita, where I had only intended to rest the 
 animals for a couple of hours ; but as it commenced to rain, 
 and I feared that the packs might get damaged, I concluded to 
 pass the night here, and housed everything under the ox-hides. 
 A party of. Mexican Ciboleros (buffalo hunters), going to hunt 
 buffalo on the Upper Arkansas, encamped near us. Day's travel, 
 41 miles ; distance from Taos, 142. 
 
 July 14. We kept guard during the night, as we saw 
 fresh signs of Indians, and our animals were inclined to stray. 
 It rained most of the night. Raised camp at sunrise, and, with- 
 
64 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 out stopping, travelled through the Carnero Pass to Sah watch 
 valley, near which we encamped before sunset. Day's travel, 
 49 miles; distance from Taos, 191. 
 
 July 15. Travelled steadily all day, with the exception of a 
 short rest at noon, and encamped at night on a small rill run 
 ning into the Jaroso (Willow Creek). Day's travel, 43 miles ; 
 from Taos, 234 miles. 
 
 July 16. "We started at dawn, crossed the Eio de la Laguna 
 without unpacking, as its waters had fallen, and at 2 P. M. I 
 met Harry Young, whom Mr. Beale had sent to guide us to his 
 camp on the Savoya Creek, to which he had moved during my 
 absence. We found Mr. Beale and his small party all well, and 
 anxiously expecting us. Their camp was surrounded by a 
 considerable number of Utahs, some of whom I recognized as 
 the same we had met near the Sahwatch, on the 2d of July. 
 
 Soon after we got into camp, Mr. Beale dispatched Wagner 
 and Galliego to Grand Eiver with the bull-hides, directing them 
 to make a boat should they fail in finding a ford ; and a little 
 later we proceeded to the Nawaquasitch, so as to make an early 
 start on the morrow and reach Grand Eiver before night. Day's 
 travel, 42 miles ; distance from Taos, 276 miles. 
 
 MR. BE ALE'S SEPARATE JOURNAL DURING MY VOYAGE TO 
 TAOS AND BACK. 
 
 Mr. Beale commences his journal on the day that we parted ; 
 with the reasons for sending back, and the names of those who 
 went, and of those who remained with him. 
 
 July 1, 1853. Eogers, Eiggs, Cosgrove, George, Dolan, Juan, 
 and Gregorio left us to return to 'the settlements, and go 
 thence by Salt Lake to California. This was on account of one 
 of our party, whom I did not think could stand the farther 
 hardships of the journey. Harris Heap and Felipe Archilete 
 went in also to show them the nearest road, and to guide them 
 to Taos, and get supplies. Eemained in camp to await the 
 return of Heap, with provisions, &c. Eemained with me the 
 Delaware (Dick Brown), Felipe Archilete, Jr., Harry Young, 
 and Wagner. Nothing to eat in camp ; sent the Delaware out 
 to hunt, and we commenced a house. About nine, Dick re- 
 
MK. BEALE'S JOURNAL. 65 
 
 turned with a buck ; finished the house ; sick with dysentery. 
 We find the venison good, it being the first meat or food of 
 any kind, except cornmeal and water, we have had for a week. 
 
 July 2. Weather pleasant; mosquitos abundant, but not 
 troublesome; washed the two dirty shirts which composed my 
 wardrobe. No signs of Indians, and begin to hope we shall 
 not be troubled with them. Nevertheless, keep the fright medi 
 cine* at hand, and the guns ready. Grass abundant and good, 
 animals thriving; the Delaware killed an elk; dried some meat; 
 still sick. 
 
 July 3. Employed the day in drying the meat killed yester 
 day. Weather very hot ; but for the sunshine one would sup 
 pose it to be snowing, the air being filled with light fleeces like 
 snow-flakes from the cottonwood. The creek is falling, but 
 slowly. Time drags very heavily; three days gone, however, 
 and nine remain ; twelve days being the time allotted to go and 
 return from Taos. 
 
 July 4. Celebrated the day by eating our last two cups of 
 pinole; felt highly excited by it. Henceforth we go it on 
 tobacco and dried meat. The Delaware killed a doe, tolerably 
 fat ; dried the meat ; still sick ; bathed in creek ; found the 
 water excessively cold, but felt much refreshed and better after 
 the bath, besides having killed an hour by it a very important 
 item. 
 
 July 5. To-day we killed only a rabbit. The day has been 
 somewhat cool, though the evening is dry and sultry, and the 
 mosquitos much more troublesome than usual. Took a bath, 
 which seems to give me relief from my malady, which, thank 
 God, is no worse. We hope that our men have reached Taos 
 this evening. 
 
 July 6. To-day has been cloudy, with rain in the mountains 
 all around us, though but a few scattering drops have reached 
 the valley. We all complain this evening of great weakness 
 and entire lack of energy, with dizziness in the head, and do 
 not know from what cause . it proceeds. The bath in the creek 
 has not had its usual invigorating effect; mosquitos very trou 
 blesome; made a little soup in a tin box and found it tolerable. 
 
 * Our medicine chest had been intended for a lady's use, and contained a bottle 
 of anodyne drops, labelled with the following directions: "Three drops, to allay 
 palpitations of the heart occasioned by fright." 
 
66 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 July 7. For the last two days we have killed nothing. This 
 evening we had quite a shower of rain ; started to take a long 
 walk, but broke down very soon, being too weak to go far. I 
 find my sickness worse to-day, but it is the least of iny anxie 
 ties. Would to God I had none other ! Took the usual even 
 ing bath in the creek, which has slightly fallen during the day, 
 and the water not quite so cold, which encourages me to hope 
 that the supply of snow in the mountains is nearly exhausted. 
 
 July 8. This morning our anxieties from Indians have com 
 menced. At ten o'clock three of them rode into camp, and 
 shortly afterwards some dozen more. 
 
 July 9. Yesterday, after the Indians arrived, I gave them 
 what little tobacco we could spare and some of our small stock 
 of dried elk meat. After eating and smoking for awhile they 
 insisted on my accompanying them to their camp, which was 
 some ten miles off. I explained to them as well as I could who 
 I was. 
 
 Knowing that it is best always to act boldly with Indians, as 
 if you felt no fear whatever, I armed myself and started with 
 them. Our road for a mile or two led over a barren plain, 
 thickly covered with grease wood, but we soon struck the base 
 of the mountain, where the firm rich mountain grass swept our 
 saddle-girths as we cantered over it. We crossed a consider 
 able mountain covered with timber and grass, and near the sum 
 mit of which was quite a cluster" of small, but very clear and 
 apparently deep lakes. They were not more than an acre or 
 two in size, and some not even that, but surrounded by luxu 
 riant grass, and perched away up on the mountain, with fine 
 timber quite near them. It was the most beautiful scenery in 
 the world ; it formed quite a hunter's paradise, for deer and elk 
 bounded off from us as we approached, and then stood within 
 rifle-shot, looking back in astonishment. A few hours' ride 
 brought us to the Indian camp ; and I wish here I could describe 
 the beauty of the charming valley in which they lived. It was 
 small, probably not more than five miles wide by fifteen long, 
 but surrounded on all sides by the boldest mountains, covered 
 to their summits with alternate patches of timber and grass, 
 giving it the appearance of having been regularly laid off in 
 small farms. Through the centre a fine bold stream, probably 
 three feet deep by forty wide, watered the meadow land, and 
 
MR. BEALE'S JOURNAL. 67 
 
 gave the last touch which the valley required to make it the 
 most beautiful I had ever seen. Hundreds of horses and goats 
 were feeding on the meadows and hill-sides, and the Indian 
 lodges, with the women and children standing in front of them to 
 look at the approaching stranger, strongly reminded me of the 
 old patriarchal times, when flocks and herds made the wealth 
 and happiness of the people, and a tent was as good as a palace. 
 I was conducted to the lodge of the chief, an old and infirm 
 man, who welcomed me kindly, and told me his young men 
 had told him I had given of my small store to them, and to 
 "sit in peace." 
 
 I brought out my pipe, filled it, and we smoked together. 
 In about fifteen minutes a squaw brought in two large wooden 
 platters, containing some very fat deer meat and some boiled 
 corn, to which I did ample justice. After this followed a dish 
 which one must have been two weeks without bread to have 
 appreciated as I did. Never, at the tables of the wealthiest in 
 "Washington, did I find a dish which appeared to me so perfectly 
 without a parallel. It was some cornmeal boiled in goats' milk, 
 with a little elk fat. I think I certainly ate near half a peck 
 of this delicious atole, and then stopped, not because I had 
 enough, but because I had scraped the dish dry with my fingers, 
 and licked them as long as the smallest particle remained, which 
 is "manners" among Indians, and also among Arabs. Eat all 
 they give you, or get somebody to do it for you, is to honor 
 the hospitality you receive. To leave any is a slight. I needed 
 not the rule to make me eat all. 
 
 After this we smoked again, and when about to start I found 
 a large bag of dried meat and a peck of corn put up for me to 
 take to my people. 
 
 Bidding a friendly good-by to my hosts, and dividing among 
 them about a pound of tobacco and two handkerchiefs, and 
 giving the old chief the battered remains of a small leaden pica 
 yune looking-glass, I mounted my mule to return. The sun 
 was just setting when I started, and before reaching the sum 
 mit of the mountain it was quite dark. As there was no road, 
 and the creeks very dark in the bottoms, I had a most toilsome 
 time of it. At one creek, which I reached after very great dif 
 ficulty in getting through the thick and almost impenetrable 
 undergrowth, it was so dark that I could see nothing ; but, 
 
68 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 trusting to luck, I jumped my mule off the bank and brought 
 up in water nearly covering my saddle. Getting in was bad 
 enough, but coming out was worse ; for, finding the banks high 
 on the other side, I was obliged to follow down the stream for 
 half a mile or more, not knowing when I should be swimming, 
 until I succeeded with great difficulty in getting out through 
 the tangled brushwood on the opposite side. I arrived at camp 
 late at night, and found my men very anxiously awaiting my 
 return, having almost concluded to give me up, and to think I 
 had lost my " hair." A little rain. 
 
 July 11. To-day I raised camp, and went over to the valley 
 of the Savoya, near my Indian neighbors. The more I see of 
 this valley the more I am delighted with it. I cannot say how 
 it may be in winter, but at this time it is certainly the most 
 beautiful valley, and the richest in grass, wood, soil, and water, 
 I have ever seen. The Delaware brought into camp last even 
 ing a small deer, alive, which he had caught in the mountains. 
 It was a beautiful creature, but escaped in the night. 
 
 July 12. Went out this morning with the Indians to hunt. 
 They lent me a fine horse ; but God forbid that I should ever 
 hunt with such Indians again ! I thought I had seen some 
 thing of rough riding before; but all my experience faded 
 before that of the feats of to-day. Some places which we 
 ascended and descended it seemed to me that even a wild-cat 
 could hardly have passed over; and yet their active and tho 
 roughly well-trained horses took them as part of the sport, and 
 never made a misstep or blunder during the entire day. We 
 killed three antelopes and a young deer. Yesterday an Indian, 
 while sitting at our camp, broke the mainspring of his rifle 
 lock. His distress was beyond anything within the power of 
 description. To him it was everything. The " corn, wine, and 
 oil" of his family depended on it, and he sat for an hour looking 
 upon the wreck of his fortune in perfect despair. He appeared 
 so much cast down by it that at last I went into our lodge and 
 brought my rifle, which I gave him to replace the broken one. 
 At first he could not realize it, but as the truth gradually broke 
 upon him, his joy became so great that he could scarce control 
 himself; and when he returned that night he was the happiest 
 man I have seen for many a day. 
 
 These Indians are all well armed and mounted, and the very 
 
MR. BEALE'S JOURNAL. 69 
 
 best shots and hunters. Our revolvers seem, however, to be a 
 never-failing source of astonishment to them, and they are never 
 tired of examining Ithem. Yesterday, I allowed them to fire two 
 of ours at a mark, at thirty paces. They shot admirably well, 
 putting all the shots within a space of the small mark (size of 
 a half dollar), and hitting it several times. A rainy day. 
 
 July 13. To-day has been showery, and the evening still 
 cloudy, and promising more rain during the night. Our eyes 
 are now turned constantly to the opposite side of the valley, 
 down which the road winds by which we expect our com 
 panions from Taos. 
 
 These days have been the most weary and anxious of my 
 whole life. Sometimes I am almost crazy with thinking con 
 stantly on one subject, and the probable disastrous result which 
 this delay may have on my business in California. 
 
 " Stone walls do not a prison make, 
 
 Nor iron bars a cage ; 
 The heart that is content will take 
 These for a hermitage." 
 
 God knows I have done all for the best, and with the best 
 intentions. A great many Indians came into the valley this 
 evening. Ten lodges in all, which, with the fifteen already 
 here, and more on the road, make up a pretty large band. 
 Dick killed an antelope. Last two nights have slept in wet 
 blankets, and expect the same to-night. Last night it rained 
 all night. The Spanish boy has been quite ill for two days 
 past. 
 
 July 14. This morning I explored the mountain lying to 
 the north of our camp, forming a picturesque portion of our 
 front view. After ascending the mountain and reaching the 
 summit, I found it a vast plateau of rolling prairie land, covered 
 with the most beautiful grass, and heavily timbered. At some 
 places the growth of timber would be 1 so dense as to render 
 riding through it impossible without great difficulty ; while at 
 others it would break into beautiful open glades, leaving spaces 
 of a hundred acres or more of open prairie, with groups of 
 trees, looking precisely as if some wealthy planter had amused 
 himself by planting them expressly to beautify his grounds. 
 Springs were abundant, and small streams intersected the whole 
 plateau. In fact, it was an immense natural park, already 
 
70 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 stocked with deer and elk, and only requiring a fence to make 
 it an estate for a king. Directly opposite, to the south, is 
 another mountain, in every respect similar, and our valley, 
 more beautiful to me than either, lies between them. In the 
 evening took a long ride on the trail to meet our long-expected 
 companions. I did not meet them, and returned disappointed, 
 worried, and more anxious than ever. 
 
 July 15. This has been a great day for our Indian neigh 
 bors. Two different bands of the same tribe have met, and a 
 great contest is going on to prove which has the best horses. 
 They have been at it since the morning, and many a buckskin 
 has changed hands. The horses are all handsome, and run 
 remarkably well. We have had more than fifty races ; a sur 
 feit of them, if such a thing as a surfeit of horseracing is pos 
 sible. 
 
 July 16. Here at last. This morning I saddled my mule to 
 go and hunt up our expected companions. I had not gone far 
 before I met about fifty Indians, from whom I could learn no 
 thing of them, and was beginning to despair, when I met a loose 
 mule, and, as I knew it was not one of the Indians', I concluded 
 it must belong to some of our companions. Going on a mile 
 or two farther, I met Felipe, who told me that Heap and the 
 others were just behind. I immediately returned to camp to 
 get dinner ready for them, so that we might go on this evening 
 to the Uncompagre. Here terminates the most unpleasant six 
 teen days of my life ; but for this beautiful country, to look at 
 and explore, I think I should have gone crazy. The time 
 seemed endless to me, but my zealous comrades had not unne 
 cessarily lengthened it, for they had averaged 45 miles a day 
 during the double journey (going and coming), and that 
 through the whole mass of mountains which lie between the 
 Upper Del Norte and the Grand River Fork of the great Colo 
 rado (Red River) of the Gulf of California. 
 
 Here ends Mr. BEALE'S separate journal. 
 
JOURNEY TO THE MORMON SETTLEMENTS. 71 
 
 CHAPTEE V. 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE MORMON SETTLEMENTS NEAR LAS VEGAS DE 
 
 SANTA CLARA. 
 
 July 17. We were now again united, and freed from the 
 anxiety for each other's safety which had been weighing on us 
 since the day of our separation. "We resumed our journey at 
 sunrise, with the hope of soon overcoming all difficulties. Al 
 though the sun rose in a cloudless sky, yet before noon the rain 
 commenced falling in heavy showers. Mr. Beale and myself, 
 having much to relate to each other, rode several miles ahead 
 of the men. We descended to the plain at the foot of the 
 Sahwatch mountains by the same trail over which we had al 
 ready twice travelled, and which was now familiar to us. On 
 approaching the Uncompagre, we travelled parallel with its 
 course towards Grand River, keeping on the trail of the two 
 men sent ahead the day before with the hides to construct the 
 boat. At noon, we noticed two recumbent figures on a distant 
 butte, with horses standing near them ; when we had approached 
 within a mile they sprang to their saddles and galloped towards 
 us at full speed. They were Utah Indians, on a scout, and 
 evinced no fear of us, but, approaching, frankly offered us their 
 hands. "We conversed with them partly by signs and partly by 
 means of the few Utah words which we had picked up, and 
 their scanty knowledge of Spanish, which extended only to the 
 names of a few objects and animals. They told us that large 
 numbers of their tribe were encamped a few miles below, on the 
 Uncompagre, and, bidding them farewell, we went on to meet 
 our train. 
 
 Soon after parting with them, we saw on the hill-sides and river 
 bottom, a vast number of gayly-colored lodges, and numerous 
 bands of Indians arriving from the northward. Upon approach- 
 
72 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 ing, we were received by a number of the oldest men, who invited 
 us to ascend a low, but steep hill, where most of the chiefs were 
 seated. From this point we had a view of an animated and 
 interesting scene. On every side fresh bands of Indians were 
 pouring in, and the women were kept busy in erecting their 
 lodges in the bottom near the Uncompagre, as well as on the 
 higher land nearer to us. Horses harnessed to lodge poles, on 
 which were packed their various property, and in many cases 
 their children, were arriving, and large bands of loose horses 
 and mules were being driven to the river side to drink or to 
 pasture. Squaws were going to the stream for water, whilst 
 others were returning with their osier jars filled, and poised on 
 their heads. Some of the young men were galloping around on 
 their high-mettled horses, and others, stretched lazily on the 
 grass, were patiently waiting until their better halves had com 
 pleted the construction of their lodges, and announced that the 
 evening meal was prepared. All the males, from the old man 
 to the stripling of four years, were armed with bows and arrows, 
 and most of the men had serviceable rifles. We almost fancied 
 that we had before us a predatory tribe of Scythians or Numi- 
 dians, so similar are these Indians in their dress, accoutrements, 
 and habits, to what we have learned of those people. 
 
 An old chief, who, we were told, was one of their great men, 
 addressed us a discourse, which very soon went beyond the 
 limits of our knowledge of the Utah tongue, but we listened to 
 it with the appearance of not only understanding the subject, 
 but also of being highly interested with it. Our men, with 
 Felipe Archilete, the guide and interpreter, were many miles in 
 the rear, and we waited until their arrival, for Mr. Beale wished 
 to take advantage of this opportunity to have a conversation 
 with these chiefs, two of whom were the highest in the nation. 
 
 When Felipe came up, Mr. Beale and the capitanos, as they 
 styled themselves, engaged in a long " talk/' Mr. Beale told 
 them that many Americans would be soon passing through their 
 country on their way to the Mormon settlements and California, 
 with wagons and herds, and that, if they treated the whites 
 well, either by aiding them when in difficulty, guiding them 
 through the mountains, and across the rivers, or by furnishing 
 them with food when they needed it, they would always be 
 amply rewarded. They appeared much gratified to hear this, 
 
JOURNEY TO THE MORMON SETTLEMENTS. 73 
 
 and by way, no doubt, of testing whether his practice coincided 
 with his preaching, intimated that they would be well pleased 
 to receive, then, some of the presents of which he spoke; re 
 marking, that as we had passed through their country, used 
 their pasturage, lived among their people, and had even been 
 fed by them, it was but proper that some small return should 
 be made for so many favors. This was an argument which Mr. 
 Beale had not foreseen ; but having no presents to give them, 
 he explained how it was ; that, having lost everything we pos 
 sessed in Grand Eiver, it was out of his power to gratify them. 
 This explanation did not appear at all satisfactory, nor did 
 they seem altogether to credit him. They were very covetous 
 of our rifles, but we could not, of course, part with them. The 
 old chief became taciturn and sulky, and glanced towards us 
 occasionally with a malignant. expression. 
 
 We took no notice of his ill-temper, but lit our pipes and 
 passed them around. In the meanwhile, our men had, in accord 
 ance with Mr. Beale's directions, proceeded to Grand Kiver, 
 where they were to seek for Wagner and Galliego, and encamp 
 with 'them. Felipe, whose quick and restless eye was always 
 on the watch, dropped us a hint, in a few words, that it was 
 becoming unsafe to remain longer in the midst of these savages, 
 for he had noticed symptoms of very unfriendly feelings. 
 
 We were seated in a semicircle on the brow of a steep hill, 
 and a large crowd had collected around us. Eising without 
 exhibiting any haste, we adjusted our saddles, relit our pipes, 
 and shaking hands with the chiefs who were nearest to us, 
 mounted and rode slowly down the hill, followed by a large 
 number of Utahs, who, upon our rising to leave them, had 
 sprung to their saddles. The older men remained seated, and 
 our escort consisted almost entirely of young warriors. They 
 galloped around us in every direction ; occasionally, a squad of 
 four or five would charge upon us at full speed, reining up sud 
 denly, barely avoiding riding over us and our mules. They did 
 this to try our mettle, but as we took little notice of them, and 
 affected perfect unconcern, they finally desisted from their dan 
 gerous sport. At one time, the conduct of a young chief, the 
 son of El Capitan Grande, was near occasioning serious conse 
 quences. He charged upon Felipe with a savage yell, every 
 feature apparently distorted with rage ; his horse struck Felipe's 
 6 
 
74 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 mule, and very nearly threw them both to the ground. The 
 Indian then seizing Felipe's rifle, endeavored to wrench it from 
 his hands, but the latter held firmly to his gun, telling us at the 
 same time not to interfere. We and the Indians formed a cir 
 cle around them, as they sat in their saddles, each holding on to 
 the gun, whose muzzle was pointed full at the Indian's breast. 
 He uttered many imprecations, and urged his followers to lend 
 him their assistance. They looked at us inquiringly, and we 
 cocked our rifles the hint was sufficient they declined inter 
 fering. For some minutes the Utah and Felipe remained mo 
 tionless, glaring at each other like two game-cocks, each watch 
 ing with flashing eyes for an opportunity to assail his rival. 
 Seeing that to trifle longer would be folly, Felipe, who held the 
 butt-end of the rifle, deliberately placed his thumb on the ham 
 mer, and raising it slowly, gave warning to the young chief, by 
 two ominous clicks, that his life was in danger. For a moment 
 longer, the Utah eyed Felipe, and then, with an indescribable 
 grunt, pushed the rifle from him, and lashing his horse furiously, 
 rode away from us at full speed. Felipe gave us a sly wink, and 
 uttered the highly original ejaculation "Carajo!" 
 
 We crossed the Uncompagre about twelve miles above our 
 former fording-place. The rain, which had been falling at 
 intervals all day, now descended in torrents, and the river soon 
 became so deep and rapid, that our return was entirely cut off. 
 Our object in crossing it was to ascertain the condition of Grand 
 Eiver, where we had previously been balked by the loss of the 
 canoe. We travelled until nine o'clock, when we met some 
 Utahs sent by Wagner to inform us that he had found a ford, 
 which would dispense with the necessity of building a boat. 
 The rain not abating, and having ridden since morning upwards 
 of fifty miles, we concluded to accept the hospitality of our 
 Indian friends, who offered us a lodge in an encampment, which 
 we soon after reached. It consisted of six large deer-skin 
 lodges on the brow of a hill overlooking in front the angry 
 current of the Uncompagre, whilst on the left was Grand Eiver, 
 about a mile distant. From this point we saw numerous fires 
 dotting the opposite shores of the Uncompagre, amongst which 
 shone a larger one lit by our men, for the purpose of guiding 
 us through the storm to their encampment. Before we entered 
 the lodge, a number of squaws and children issued from it, to 
 
JOURNEY TO THE MORMON SETTLEMENTS. 75 
 
 make room for us, and scattered themselves among the other 
 lodges ; the men remained, squatting closely together on one 
 side, while Mr. Beale, myself, and Felipe, spreading our saddle- 
 blankets near the fire, threw ourselves, in utter weariness, upon 
 them. At this moment we would willingly have sold our birth 
 rights for a mess of pottage, for we had tasted nothing since 
 dawn. 
 
 We soon lit and passed around the friendly pipe, and made 
 ourselves as comfortable and as much "at home" as circum 
 stances would permit. The nickering blaze of the fire fell on 
 the wrinkled visages of two or three old squaws, who had 
 quietly crept near the door for a view of the " Mericanos," 
 while outside, and peering over each other's shoulders, were 
 a group of girls, whose bright eyes and laughing faces dis 
 closing their pearly teeth, formed an agreeable contrast with 
 the serious and even surly countenances of the men, and hag 
 gard appearance of the older squaws. Knowing that our men 
 would feel anxious on account of our prolonged absence (for 
 having left us in the midst of the Indian encampment they had 
 good reason to fear for our safety), Mr. Beale inquired whether 
 there was any one who would undertake to carry a message to 
 them across the river. A handsome young Indian volunteered 
 to go, and Mr. Beale liberally promised to reward him on his 
 return with a plug of tobacco, which he exhibited, to prove 
 that he was in earnest. This generosity was duly appreciated; 
 and it is probable that, with the offer of a few more plugs, the 
 whole band might have been sent over as attaches to the em 
 bassy. Mr. Beale wrote to Young, to send us coffee, sugar, 
 and biscuit ; and our messenger, having stripped to the buff, 
 rolled the paper up, and carefully thrust it through the lobe 
 of his ear, which was pierced with large holes. Mounting a 
 powerful horse, he disappeared in the darkness, towards the 
 Uncompagre. 
 
 Much sooner than we had anticipated, he returned his horse 
 as well as himself dripping with moisture, and brought, safely 
 tied on the top of his head, the articles Mr. Beale had written 
 for. He also carried in his ear a note from Young, stating that 
 the Indians were quite peaceable and well-disposed, and had 
 indicated a ford near which our men were encamped. 
 
 All uneasiness, on their account, being set at rest, we gave 
 
76 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 ourselves up entirely to the enjoyment of our novel situation. 
 Knowing that nothing, not excepting music, " hath such charms 
 to soothe the savage breast" as a good feed, Felipe asked for a 
 large kettle, which was soon produced, and suspended from three 
 sticks, over the fire. This he filled with coffee, well sweetened, 
 and threw in also the biscuit. Affairs were now assuming an 
 aspect which our hosts appeared to consider of intense interest. 
 Their eyes did not wander for a moment from the magic kettle ; 
 and their half-opened mouths actually watered as the delicious 
 aroma of the coffee filled the lodge. Felipe now called for 
 our cups, which we carried suspended to our saddles, and 
 for every other utensil in the camp, and served the delicious 
 beverage around. The redskins sipped it scalding hot, accom 
 panying each sip with a deep ugh ! signifying their great enjoy 
 ment ; and, having drained their cups to the dregs, they rubbed 
 their stomachs, in token of its having done them infinite good. 
 Fatigued as we were we soon stretched ourselves out to sleep, 
 and though the wind howled around us, and the rain fell. all 
 night, we slept soundly and comfortably, the fire in the centre 
 keeping the lodge quite warm, whilst an aperture in the top 
 allowed the smoke to escape freely. Days travel, 50 miles; 
 distance from Taos, 326 miles. 
 
 July 18. "We saddled up at early dawn, swam our mules 
 across the Uncompagre, and rejoined our men. They informed 
 us that Juan Cordova had deserted the day before, and returned 
 to Mr. Beale's encampment on the Savoya in company with the 
 two Indians we had met in the morning, and who were going 
 that way. 
 
 We found camp filled with Indians, who, however, behaved 
 in a friendly manner, and had even supplied the men with a 
 bucket-full of goat's milk. No time was lost in preparing to 
 ford Grand Eiver, and some Indians went ahead to show us 
 the way. On reaching the stream we found that it had fallen 
 about six feet, and under the guidance of the Indians had no 
 difficulty in getting over. The water reached nearly to the 
 mules' backs, but the packs had been secured so high as to pre 
 vent their getting wet. 
 
 The Indians followed us across in large numbers, and at times 
 tried our patience to the utmost. They numbered about two 
 hundred and fifty warriors, and were all mounted on fine horses, 
 
JOURNEY TO THE MORMON SETTLEMENTS. 77 
 
 and well armed with bows and arrows, having laid aside their 
 rifles, which Felipe considered a sign that their designs were 
 unfriendly, as they never carry them when they intend to fight 
 on horseback. Their appearance, as they whirled around us at. 
 full speed, clothed in bright colors, and occasionally charging 
 upon us with a loud yell, made a striking contrast with that of 
 our party, mounted as we were upon mules, in the half-naked con 
 dition in which we had crossed the river (for it was dangerous to 
 stop for a moment to dress). They enjoyed many laughs at our 
 expense, taunting us, and comparing us, from our bearded ap 
 pearance, to goats, and calling us beggarly cowards and women. 
 Most of these compliments were lost to us at the time, but 
 Felipe afterwards explained them. The old chief, the same who 
 had given us such a surly reception on the preceding day, and 
 his son, who had made a trial of strength with Felipe for his 
 rifle, soon joined us, and behaved with much insolence, demand 
 ing presents in an imperious manner, and even endeavored to 
 wrench our guns from our hands, threatening to "wipe us out" 
 if we refused to comply with their wishes. They frequently 
 harangued the young men, and abused us violently for tra 
 versing their country, using their grass and timber without 
 making them any acknowledgment for the obligation. The 
 latter listened in silence, but most of them remained calm and 
 unmoved, and evinced no disposition to molest us. The chiefs 
 then changed their tactics, and endeavored to provoke us to 
 commence hostilities. Mr. Beale calmly explained to them that, 
 having lost everything in the river, he was unable to make them 
 such presents as he would have desired, and added (addressing 
 himself to the chiefs) that he clearly saw that they were evil- 
 hearted men ; for, after treating us as brothers and friends, they 
 were now endeavoring to make bad blood between us and their 
 people. He ended by telling them that we had a few articles which 
 he would have distributed to them, had they not behaved in so 
 unfriendly a manner ; but that now, the only terms upon which 
 they could obtain them was by giving a horse in exchange. 
 Mr. Beale's motive for not giving them presents was our in 
 ability to satisfy the whole party, for all we possessed was a 
 piece of cloth, a calico shirt, and some brass wire, and these 
 articles, valueless as they were, if given to a few, would have 
 excited the jealousy and ill-will of the less fortunate, and thus 
 
78 , CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 made them our enemies. The Indians, however, declined giving 
 a horse in exchange for what we offered, saying that it would 
 not be a fair bargain. Mr. Beale then said: "If you want to 
 trade, we will trade; if you want to fight, we will fight;" re 
 questing those who were not inclined to hostilities, to stand 
 aside, as we had no wish to injure our friends. 
 
 The chiefs, finding themselves in the minority as regarded 
 fighting, finally consented to give us a mare for our goods ; and 
 after the trade was made we parted, much relieved at getting 
 rid of such ugly customers. 
 
 The Utahs had been in company with us for several hours, 
 and had often separated our party. During all this time our 
 rifles were held ready for use, not knowing at what moment 
 the conflict might commence. Had we come to blows, there is 
 no doubt that we should have been instantly overwhelmed. The 
 Delaware had kept constantly aloof from the party, never allow 
 ing an Indian to get behind him ; and although he silently, but 
 sullenly, resisted the attempts that were made to snatch his 
 rifle from his grasp, he never for a moment removed his eyes 
 from the old chief, but glared at him with a ferocity so pecu 
 liar, that it was evident that feelings even stronger than any 
 that could arise from his present proceedings, prompted the 
 Delaware's ire against the rascally Utah. Dick subsequently 
 told us that, when he was a boy, he had fallen into the hands of 
 this same old chief, who had *been urgent to put him to death. 
 Dick had nursed his revenge with an Indian's constancy, and, 
 upon the first blow, intended to send a rifle ball through his 
 skull. 
 
 Several times Felipe warned us to be on our guard, as the 
 attack was about to commence, and Mr. Beale directed all to 
 dismount upon the first unequivocal act of hostility, to stand 
 each man behind his mule, and to take deliberate aim before 
 firing. 
 
 Travelling down Grand Eiver, at some distance from its 
 right bank, we came to where it flowed through a canon. 
 The ground on either side of the river was much broken by 
 ravines. The country, about a mile from the river, was bar 
 ren and level, producing nothing but wild sage and prickly 
 pear. After a harassing day we encamped on a rapid, clear 
 and cool brook, with good pasturage on its banks, called in the 
 
JOURNEY TO THE MORMON SETTLEMENTS. 79 
 
 Utah language, the Cerenoquinti; it issues from the Pareamoot 
 Mountains and flows into Grand River. Day's travel, 25 
 miles ; whole distance from Westport, computed from June 23, 
 976 miles. 
 
 July 19. Resumed our journey at 5.30 A. M., and travelling 
 twelve miles southwest over a level and barren country, en 
 camped on the Avonkarea (Blue River, Utah tongue). Our 
 encampment was on a high rocky bluff overhanging the stream, 
 and offering a beautiful view of its course. The scenery was 
 grand beyond description; the fantastic shapes of the mount 
 ains to the northward resembled in some places interminable 
 ranges of fortifications, battlements, and towers, and in others 
 immense Gothic cathedrals ; the whole was bathed in the beau 
 tiful colors thrown over the sky and mountains, and reflected 
 in the stream by a glowing sunset. 
 
 This river was broader and more rapid than Grand River, 
 and, as we had anticipated, entirely too deep to ford. At the 
 point where we encamped, it was about three hundred yards in 
 breadth, and it had evidently recently been much wider. It 
 frothed and foamed as it rushed impetuously past the rocks, 
 bearing on its bosom huge trees, which rolled and writhed like 
 drowning giants. The men immediately commenced making a 
 frame for the boat, the qualities of which we were about to test. 
 The keel and longitudinal ribs were made with saplings, and 
 the transverse ribs with small limbs of willow, which bent easily 
 to any shape required. The hides two of which had been 
 closely sewed together were softened by soaking in the river, 
 spread under the frame ; and the edges, perforated with holes, 
 were brought up its sides and tightly laced to them with 
 thongs. The boat was finished by sunset, and, although neither 
 as light nor as graceful as a birch-bark canoe, it promised to 
 carry us and our packs over safely. 
 
 Soon after arriving at the Avonkarea, we were hailed from 
 the opposite shore by a Mexican, who informed us that he and 
 his party had been waiting twenty days for the waters to fall, 
 being unable to cross over. 
 
 He stated that they had left the Mormon settlements at the 
 Vegas de Santa Clara on the 20th of June, and had lost two of 
 their men by drowning in Green River. Mr. Beale promised 
 to assist them over. 12 miles ; 988 miles. 
 
80 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 July 20. Commenced crossing at an early hour. The boat 
 answered admirably ; it was buoyant, easily managed, and safe. 
 Before sunset most of the train had crossed, and the Delaware 
 had succeeded in swimming the mules over, by following in 
 their wake, and heading off those that tried to turn back. It 
 took us longer than we had anticipated, to get our effects across, 
 as it was necessary at each trip to tow the boat some distance 
 up the right bank, in order to make our encampment on the 
 left, without drifting below it. The current was very rapid, 
 and the work of towing the boat up through the bushes which 
 overhung the stream, very laborious. Some of the Mexicans 
 and a few of their packs were carried in safety to the left 
 bank. It rained heavily during the afternoon, and we passed 
 a wet night under our blankets. The camp was crowded with 
 Indians, who were anxious to trade, but were not troublesome. 
 As some of them passed *the night with us, we allowed our ani 
 mals to run with theirs. 
 
 Henry Young was at one time in a very precarious position, 
 from which he was relieved with difficulty. One of the mules 
 had stubbornly resisted every effort to get her over, and had 
 finally made a landing under a high precipice on the left shore, 
 from which it was impossible to dislodge her, without going into 
 the water and swimming to the spot. This was attempted by 
 Young, and as the current here swept down with tremendous 
 velocity, he was on the point of drowning, when fortunately he 
 seized a rock, upon which he landed. It was now dark, the 
 rain falling fast, and to have passed the night in this situation 
 was certain destruction, for he was under a precipice, and in 
 front of him roared the Avonkarea. No one knew that he had 
 gone into the water, and we were not aware of his distress 
 until he had attracted our attention by his shouts, and a flash 
 of lightning revealed him to us. The boat was got down to 
 him after more than an hour's work, and he was finally brought 
 into camp nearly frozen. 
 
 July 21. The remainder of the packs and men crossed in the 
 morning, and the day was consumed in sending the rest of the 
 Mexicans and their luggage to the opposite side. They were 
 also assisted in crossing over their animals. These men reported 
 that they had been badly treated by the Mormons at the Vegas 
 de Santa Clara, and that two of their number had been put in 
 
JOURNEY TO THE MORMON SETTLEMENTS. 81 
 
 jail. They warned us to be on our guard, when we arrived in 
 Utah Territory, as they (the Mormons) had threatened to shoot 
 or imprison all Americans passing through their country. 
 Notwithstanding their plausible story, the Mexicans only 
 impressed us with the belief that, having misbehaved, they had 
 received the chastisement they deserved, for it was well known 
 to us that the Mormons strictly prohibited the practice of the 
 natives of New Mexico of bartering firearms and ammunition 
 with the Indians for their children. 
 
 We wrote many letters by these men, which they promised 
 to deliver to Mr. Leroux, in Taos. 
 
 The hides were removed from the frame of the boat and re 
 served for future use, and having got our animals together we 
 resumed our march at 7 P. M. 
 
 The Avonkarea joins Grand Kiver five or six miles below 
 where we crossed it. We travelled down the last-mentioned 
 stream, our course being southwest, and encamped at 11 P. M. 
 at Camp L'Amoureux, so called after a French trapper who 
 trapped here for several years, until drowned in Grand Eiver. 
 Our road lay over a level plain, whose loose, rotten soil was 
 covered with a thick growth of artemisia, cactus, and grease- 
 wood. At this camp, both grass and timber were abundant, 
 but the mosquitos allowed no rest to man or beast. A plain 
 extends on this side of the river about twelve miles in breadth, 
 bounded on the northwest by a range of steep, bald, and deeply 
 furrowed mountains. Day's travel, 16 miles; total distance 
 from Westport, 1,004 mile's. 
 
 July 22. We were in the saddle at 7.30 A. M., and in ten 
 miles reached the Eio Salado (Salt Creek), and following down 
 its bed, which only contained water in holes, encamped on Grand 
 River, near where it (Salt Creek) discharges itself. This creek 
 is a running stream in winter, and its water is then drinkable; 
 but it ceases to run in summer, and its water, which is then 
 only found in hollows, is very brackish. Wherever the main 
 river (Grand River) can be reached, which is practicable at 
 some points, there are good camping places, where grass and 
 timber are abundant. 
 
 The face of the country, as on the previous day, was an arid 
 plain, with scanty vegetation. To the northwest, at a distance 
 
82 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 of eight miles, was a range of steep bluffs, and Grand Eiver, 
 on our left, was shut from view by naked hills. 
 
 A few Indians visited camp, and partook of our dinner. 
 We obtained from them some beautiful buckskins, which the 
 Utahs have a skilful mode of preparing. They told us that 
 the river abounded with large fish, and one of the men imme 
 diately manufactured a hook with a horseshoe nail. We had 
 satisfactory evidence of the weight of the fish, for the first that 
 bit carried away "hook and line, bob and sinker." 
 
 Travelled twenty miles in the afternoon, and encamped again 
 late at night on Grand Eiver. To avoid the mosquitos, some 
 slept on the top of a lofty rock, and were tolerably free from 
 their annoyance ; but those Avho made their beds below were 
 allowed no rest. From the Eio Salado, our route lay over arid 
 hills of sand and sandstone. 30 miles; 1,034 miles. 
 
 July 23. Eaised camp at sunrise, travelling over rough and 
 barren hills near the river, and at 10 A. M. rested for the last 
 time on its banks. The scenery here was picturesque. On 
 our side, the stream was overhung by high cliffs of dazzlingly 
 white sandstone, against which it dashed with violence; whilst 
 on the left shore were extensive meadows, ornamented with 
 numerous clusters of trees. All hands bathed in the river, and 
 found its waters cool and refreshing. The heat of the weather 
 was intense, until a distant thunderstorm refreshed the air. 
 
 Eesuming our journey, we left Grand Eiver, and, directing 
 our course west-southwest across a sandy and parched plain 
 towards Green Eiver, stopped for the night at 10 P. M., at a 
 place where there was scanty grass and no water ; but we had 
 brought a supply for our own use, and had watered the mules 
 before starting. Day's travel, 36 miles ; total distance, 1,070 
 miles. 
 
 July 24. The men passed a refreshing night, perfectly free 
 from the mosquitos, wjaich had been a source of such serious 
 annoyance since leaving the settlements in New Mexico. Started 
 at 5 A. M., and, travelling thirty -five miles, encamped on Green 
 Eiver Fork of the Great Colorado at 1 P. M. 
 
 The country we traversed was stony and broken by dry 
 watercourses. On every side, and principally to the north and 
 northeast, extended ranges of rugged hills, bare of vegetation, and 
 seamed with ravines. On their summits were rocks of fantastic 
 
JOURNEY TO THE MORMON SETTLEMENTS. 83 
 
 shapes, resembling pyramids, obelisks, churches, and towers, and 
 having all the appearance of a vast city in the distance. The 
 only vegetation was a scanty growth of stunted wild sage and 
 cacti, except at a point known as the Hole in the Eock, where 
 there were willows and other plants denoting the vicinity of 
 water, but we found none on our route. The sun was exceed 
 ingly hot, and we, as well as our mules, were glad to reach the 
 river, where we could relieve our thirst. Saw four antelopes near 
 Green River, to which the Delaware immediately gave chase, 
 but was unable to get within gunshot. 
 
 Green River was broader and deeper than either Grand River 
 or the Avonkarea, but its current was neither so rapid nor so 
 turbulent. The scenery on its banks was grand and solemn, 
 and we had an excellent view of it from our camping place on 
 a high bluff. 
 
 The frame of the boat was commenced at once. Some Indians 
 made their appearance on the opposite shore, and one of them 
 swam over to our side, assisted by a log, on w r hich he occasion 
 ally rested. Day's travel, 35 miles; total distance, 1,105 miles. 
 
 July 25. At an early hour the men resumed their work on 
 the boat ; the hides were found to be rotten and full of holes, 
 as we had neglected to dry them after crossing the Avon 
 karea; but by dint of patching with pieces of India-rubber 
 blankets and sheepskins, and smearing the seams with a mix 
 ture of tallow, flour, soap, and pulverized charcoal, the boat 
 was made sufficiently tight, that, with constant bailing, all the 
 men and packs were carried over in four trips. I went with 
 the first load to guard our packs, as Indians were on the left 
 bank watching our proceedings. 
 
 Mr. Beale made great exertions to hurry the train over this 
 river. He went across at every trip, jumping into the river 
 where it was shallow, and taking the boat in tow until he was 
 beyond his depth. He was thus for many hours in the water, 
 encouraging the men by his example. "We had now an excellent 
 party ; the men were daring and adroit ; they exhibited no fear 
 when we were so hard pressed by the Utahs, and when exposure 
 or toil was required of them, not one flinched from his duty. 
 Some appeared almost to rejoice whenever there was a difficulty 
 to overcome, and we never heard the Delaware's wild shout and 
 laugh without suspecting that either he or his mule had got 
 
84 CENTRAL EOUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 into some predicament, either by sliding down a bank, or get 
 ting into the mire, or entangled in a jungle. He never asked 
 for help, and rejected all assistance, relying on 'himself in every 
 emergency. 
 
 At sunset, the crossing of Green Kiver was effected, and we 
 gladly gave the boat to the Indians, who ripped it to pieces to 
 make moccasson soles of the hides. We proceeded a mile up 
 the stream, and encamped in the midst of luxuriant grass. A 
 band of twenty-five mounted Utahs accompanied us and passed 
 the night in our camp ; we gave them to eat, and they seemed 
 quite friendly. Their accounts of the Mormons corroborated 
 what the Indians and Mexicans on the Avonkarea had told us. 
 Day's travel, 1 mile ; whole distance, 1,106 miles. 
 
 July 26. In the morning the Utahs, who, the night before, 
 were apparently so friendly, showed a disposition to be insolent, 
 but our party keeping close together, they did not dare to com 
 mence hostilities ; most of them had rifles, and all had bows and 
 quivers full of arrows with obsidian heads. They accompanied 
 us for some miles, impdrtuning us for presents, and finally 
 left us in a bad humor. Had we been able to conciliate these 
 Indians with a few gifts, such as blankets, beads, tobacco, brass 
 wire, &c., we should not have had the least trouble with them. 
 We parted on friendly terms with those on the Savoy a, where Mr. 
 Beale had remained during my journey to Taos ; for, on leaving, 
 he distributed a variety of small articles which I had brought 
 for them, and with which they were entirely satisfied. 
 
 Started at five, and at noon encamped at Green Eiver Spring. 
 The water here was cool, but not abundant ; it is, however, con 
 stant, and good grass and some cottonwoods and willows are 
 found around it. 
 
 The character of the country and soil continued unchanged, 
 rocky ridges worn into fantastic shapes, and soil loose, dry, and 
 barren. The trail led through rocky ravines of red sandstone. 
 Day's travel, 18 miles ; whole distance, 1,124 miles. 
 
 July 27. We were on the road before daylight, and tra 
 velled thirty-eight miles west by south ; crossing the east fork 
 of San Eafael Creek, we halted at 8 P. M. on the west fork, a few 
 miles above their junction, and twenty from where this creek 
 flows into Green Kiver. At our encampment, the creek was 
 
JOURNEY TO THE MORMON SETTLEMENTS. 85 
 
 seven yards in breadth and eighteen inches deep. The water 
 was cool and sweet, and good pasturage on its banks. 
 
 The trail led us over low hills much cut up by dry and rocky 
 ravines, and on our right were sandstone bluffs. Vegetation 
 was scanty, principally dwarf cedars, artemisia, and cactus, and 
 occasionally patches of grama grass. We found no water from 
 camp to camp. A longer trail than the one we took leads 
 through a level valley. About twelve miles from Green Eiver 
 Spring, the country opened to the north and northwest, show 
 ing a level plain to the foot of the Wahsateh Mountains. These 
 mountains extended north, west, and southwest as far as our 
 sight could reach, and some of the loftiest were capped with 
 snow. The heat of the sun was tempered by a pleasant westerly 
 breeze. Day's travel, 38 miles ; whole distance, 1,164. 
 
 July 28. Travelled twenty miles south by west, and halted 
 at noon on the Bio del Moro (Castle Creek, so called on ac 
 count of buttes near it resembling fortifications). In ten miles 
 from the San Eafael, crossed a broad brook of clear and cool 
 water, running into Green Eiver. Between the streams vege 
 tation was scanty and stunted, and the soil clayey, dry, and 
 barren ; to the westward were steep hills, beyond which could 
 be seen the green and wooded slopes of the Wahsatch range. 
 
 Noticed fresh tracks of animals going north, evidently those 
 of cattle stolen by Indians, from the Mormons. 
 
 Our noon camp was near the point where Moro Creek issued 
 from the mountains. The clayey soil of which they are com 
 posed had been washed by rains, into the strangest shapes. At 
 times, long lines of battlements presented themselves; at others, 
 immense Gothic cathedrals, with all their quaint pinnacles and 
 turrets, which reminded us of the ruined castles and churches 
 that we had seen in our travels in the old world. The different 
 colors of the clay added to the singularity of the scenery, and 
 strengthened the resemblance. 
 
 In the afternoon, we continued to travel parallel to the hills 
 in a south by west course, and in seven miles came to a gap, 
 giving issue to a small stream, which we ascended three miles. 
 The aridity of the country continued unchanged ; the loose 
 ness of the soil, constantly kept shifting by rains, prevented 
 much vegetation except in bottom lands; there was a scanty 
 growth of some of the hardier plants, such as dwarf cedars. In 
 
86 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 the valley in which we encamped was good grass, which in 
 creased in quantity and improved in quality as we ascended it. 
 Day's travel, 30 miles ; whole distance, 1,192 miles. 
 
 July 29. Resumed our journey before sunrise, and went up 
 the creek seven miles. This gorge, for it is almost too narrow 
 to be called a valley, affords a good pass through the range. 
 It narrows from one hundred yards to thirty-five feet, with 
 lofty and perpendicular rocks on each side, and the ascent is 
 very gradual. The hills were clothed, from their summits 
 to their base, with a thick growth of pine trees, cedars, and 
 aspens, and the brook was swarming with trout. The divide is 
 broad, level, and smooth, and the descent on the western side 
 easy ; the trail, as is generally the case with Indian paths, went 
 over a steep hill, which shortened the distance ; but this ascent 
 could easily have been avoided by going a couple of miles round 
 to the left. Since leaving Green River, the duties of guide had 
 devolved on Jose GTalliego,. but we found him far from efficient, 
 and greatly missed the accurate knowledge that Felipe had of 
 the country before we reached that river. 
 
 Our noon halt was on the Rio Salado (Salt Creek), a name 
 which it obtains from flowing past some mines of rock-salt, for 
 its waters are pure and sweet. We were now in the Great 
 Salt Lake Basin, Salt Creek flowing to the northward and dis 
 charging into Sevier (Nicollet) River, \vhich empties into a lake 
 of the same name in the Basin. 
 
 We here found an abundance of good grass, which was not 
 unwelcome to the mules, the rapid rate at which we travelled 
 requiring that they should feed well to retain their strength. 
 Thus far, none of our animals had shown signs of failing, and 
 most of them were in excellent travelling condition. Since 
 leaving the Savoya, we had met but little game ; an antelope, 
 shot by the Delaware on the banks of the Avonkarea, and four 
 to which he had given chase near Green River, being all that 
 we had seen. 
 
 On the summit of the divide, and before descending into the 
 valley of the Rio Salado, I took a careful survey of the sur 
 rounding country, which offered many new and interesting 
 features. 
 
 The Wahsatch Mountains are composed of several parallel 
 ranges running from the north to the south, with fine well- 
 
JOURNEY TO THE MORMON SETTLEMENTS. 87 
 
 watered valleys between them. They are short, and between 
 the valleys are numerous passes. We here discovered our 
 guide's error in leaving an excellent pass through the range, 
 on the summit of which we were standing, to follow a mountain 
 trail, which soon gave out, and left us to struggle through the 
 brush, greatly fatiguing our pack animals. 
 
 We encamped for the night, on the Salado, in a broad and 
 level valley. Throughout the mountains the pasturage reminded 
 us of that in the Sahwatch range, although in the valley it was 
 less luxuriant. 
 
 Soon after guard was set for the night, an attempt was made 
 by Indians to stampede our animals. The watchfulness of the 
 man on guard, however, defeated their purpose ; he fired, but 
 missed them. One of the mules was slightly wounded by an 
 arrow. Day's travel, 30 miles ; whole distance 1,222 miles. 
 
 July 30. Directing our course west, we entered a chasm or 
 canon in the hills six miles in length, and quite level and smooth. 
 This brought us again to the Salado, at the point where it flows 
 past the mines of rock-salt, from which it derives its name. The 
 course of the creek is here southwest, and it joins Sevier or 
 Nicollet River about three miles below the mines. At the 
 mines, we found a wagon-trail leading to Mormon settlements, 
 which our guide informed us were about a day's journey dis 
 tant to the northward. We followed this trail to Sevier River, 
 where it turned to the northward ; and crossing the Salado near 
 its mouth, travelled south up the left bank of the Sevier, on 
 which we encamped at noon. 
 
 The course of the river in this valley is from south to north ; 
 it is about twelve yards in breadth and from three to four feet 
 in depth. Sevier valley is perfectly level, and three miles in 
 breadth ; for many miles above and below the junction of the 
 Salado it is arid and destitute of timber ; there was good grass, 
 however, in the river bottom. The mountains which inclose the 
 valley east and west are apparently sterile, but their recesses 
 are well timbered ; for during the morning's march we crossed 
 two small streams flowing from the westward, near which were 
 vast quantities of drift-wood. 
 
 The weather was exceedingly hot, without a breath of air ; 
 and the dust raised by the animals, in travelling over the loose 
 and dry soil, hung over us in clouds. 
 
CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 In the afternoon, continued up the valley ; four miles brought 
 us to beautiful meadows, which extend for several miles along 
 Sevier Eiver, and are caused by the overflow of several small 
 streams from the westward. The grass was of the most luxu 
 riant description, and reached above our saddle-girths. As 
 cended the river twelve miles farther, and encamped after dark 
 on its banks. Day's travel, 37 miles ; whole distance, 1,259 
 miles. 
 
 July 31. We saddled up before sunrise, and travelling north, 
 reached at eight o'clock the head of the valley where Sevier 
 Eiver from the southwest, and Beaver Creek from the west, both 
 issuing from deep canons, join their waters. We here came to 
 a stand, it being evident that farther progress in the direction 
 we were travelling was impossible. The guide insisted that our 
 road was through one of the canons, but before proceeding it 
 was deemed advisable to make' a reconnoissance, when both 
 were found equally impracticable, even for men on foot. After 
 losing two hours in an ineffectual search, we turned our mules' 
 heads to the northward, and, travelling three miles down the 
 left bank of Sevier Eiver, we crossed it, passed over a steep 
 hill, and descended into another valley, watered by the same 
 stream ; when, too late for the discovery to be useful to us, we 
 perceived a level wagon road, made by the Mormons, leading 
 into it. Sevier is the corruption of Severe, and is called on 
 Colonel Fremont's map Nicollet. 
 
 This valley lies north and south, and surpassed in beauty and 
 fertility anything we had yet seen. It is about thirty miles in 
 length by four in breadth, surrounded by mountains, down 
 whose sides trickled numberless cool and limpid brooks, fringed 
 with willows and cottonwoods. Sevier Eiver flows through its 
 centre, and it abounds in its entire breadth in rich pasturage. 
 The mountains which inclose it were clothed, from summit to 
 base, with oaks and pines. 
 
 After a short rest we proceeded south up this valley, and at 
 dark stopped on a brook running from the westward into Sevier 
 Eiver. In riding through the grass we heard numerous rattle 
 snakes, and killed several ; they sprang at some of the men and 
 animals, but none were bitten. Day's march, 18 miles; whole 
 distance, 1,277 miles. 
 
 August 1. We travelled until noon up the left bank of Sevier 
 
JOURNEY TO THE MORMON SETTLEMENTS. 89 
 
 Kiver, and halted near its junction with the San Pasqual (its 
 main fork), where the latter issues from a cafion at the head of 
 the valley. The San Pasqual, above the canon, flows through 
 a valley of great beauty. 
 
 At our noon halt, we struck a trail which we supposed to be 
 the old trail from Abiquiii to California ; but it has been so 
 long disused that it is now almost obliterated. 
 
 In the afternoon, we travelled about four miles up a ravine 
 bearing a little to the west of south, and which took us to the 
 summit of a steep mountain. We had left the wagon trail which 
 we had found in the valley, as it took a long circuit to avoid 
 this ascent. The summit of the mountain was broad and flat, 
 and clothed with grass. Day's march, 36 miles ; whole distance, 
 1,313 miles. 
 
 August 2. We were now approaching another stage in our 
 journey which we were impatient to reach. The Mormon settle 
 ments near Las Yegas de Santa Clara were at a short distance, 
 and we made an early start in the hope of reaching them before 
 dark. We descended the mountains in a westerly direction 
 through abundantly-watered valleys, everywhere covered with 
 grass. I found wild rye growing in great abundance, the seed 
 quite large and full. 
 
 At dusk, on the previous day, we had discovered a party 
 of mounted Indians examining us from a neighboring ridge, 
 and were on the lookout for them all the morning. Soon 
 after sunrise a few Pah-Utahs, the first of that tribe which 
 we had seen, came running down a hill-side to meet us, and 7 
 accosting us in a friendly manner, asked whether we were 
 Mormons or Swaps (Americans). They informed us that a 
 Mormon village was not far off, and Mr. Beale and I, riding in 
 advance of our party, in a few hours, arrived at the town of 
 Paragoona, in Little Salt Lake Valley, near Las Yegas de 
 Santa Clara. 
 
 Paragoona is situated in the valley of the Little Salt Lake, 
 and lies near the foot of the mountains which form its eastern 
 boundary, at four miles from the lake. It contains about thirty 
 houses, which, although built of adobes, present a neat and com 
 fortable appearance. The adobes are small and well pressed, 
 and are made of a pink-colored clay. The houses are built to 
 form a quadrangle, the spaces between them being protected 
 7 
 
90 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 by a strong stockade of pine pickets. Outside of the village is 
 an area of fifty acres inclosed within a single fence, and culti 
 vated in common by the inhabitants. It is called The Field, 
 and a stream from the Wahsatch Mountains irrigates it, after 
 supplying the town with water. 
 
 The Mormons have found iron ore in the mountains, where 
 they have established several smelting furnaces ; they stated 
 that it was of an excellent quality, and that the mines were 
 inexhaustible. 
 
 Shortly before our arrival in the Territory, hostilities had 
 broken out between Walkah, a Utah chief, and the Mormons, 
 and we found them in a state of great alarm and excitement, 
 in consequence of some of his recent acts. 
 
 We did not remain long at Paragoona ; for soon after our 
 arrival, the inhabitants, in obedience to a mandate from Go 
 vernor Brigham Young, commenced removing to the town of 
 Parawan, four miles to the southward, as he considered it unsafe, 
 with the smallness of their number, for them to remain at Para 
 goona. It was to us a strange sight to witness the alacrity with 
 which these people obeyed an order which compelled them to 
 destroy in an instant, the fruits of two years' labor; and no 
 time was lost in commencing the work of destruction. Their 
 houses were demolished, the doors, windows, and all portable 
 wood- work being reserved for future dwellings ; and wagons 
 were soon on the road to Parawan, loaded with their furniture 
 and other property. 
 
 "We left Paragoona in the afternoon, and rode to Parawan 
 over an excellent wagon-road, made and kept in repair, and 
 bridged in many places, by the Mormons. "We passed, at a mile 
 on our left, a large grist and saw mill worked by water power. 
 
 This ride to Parawan formed a strange contrast to our late 
 journeying through the wilderness. At all the cross-roads were 
 finger-posts, and mile-stones measured the distance. 
 
 Parawan is situated at the base of the mountains, and con 
 tains about one hundred houses, built in a square, and facing 
 inwards. In their rear, and outside of the town, are vegetable 
 gardens, each dwelling having a lot running back about one 
 hundred yards. By an excellent system of irrigation, water is 
 brought to the front and rear of each house, and through the 
 centre and outside boundary of each garden lot. The houses 
 
JOURNEY TO THE MORMON SETTLEMENTS. 91 
 
 are ornamented in front with small flower-gardens, which are 
 fenced off from the square, and shaded with trees. The Field 
 covers about four hundred acres, and was in a high state of 
 cultivation, the wheat and corn being as fine as any that we had 
 seen in the States ; the people took a laudable pride in showing 
 us what they had accomplished in so short a time, and against 
 so many obstacles. Day's travel, 32 miles; whole distance, 
 1,345 miles. 
 
 August 3. Most of the day was spent in having the animals 
 shod, and in getting extra shoes made to replace those which 
 might be lost in crossing the desert region between the Vegas de 
 Santa Clara, and Mohaveh River. An American blacksmith, 
 assisted by a couple of Pah-Utah youths, did this work, and we 
 were surprised to see what skilful workmen these Indians made. 
 Most of the Mormon families have one or more Pah-Utah chil 
 dren, whom they had bought from their parents ; they were 
 treated with kindness, and even tenderness ; were taught to call 
 their protectors " father" and " mother," and instructed in the 
 rudiments of education. The Mormon rulers encourage a sys 
 tem which ameliorates the condition of these children by re 
 moving them from the influence of their savage parents, but 
 their laws forbid their being taken out of the Territory. The 
 children are not interdicted from intercourse with their people, 
 who are allowed freely to enter the town ; but the latter evince 
 very little interest in their offspring, for, having sold them to 
 the whites, they no longer consider them their kith or kin. 
 
 The water of Little Salt Lake is as briny, we were told, as that 
 of Great Salt Lake, and we noticed that its shores were covered 
 with saline incrustations for a mile or more from the water's 
 edge ; but the Mormons stated that the salt was of little value, 
 being impregnated with saleratus and other alkaline matter, 
 which rendered it unfit for use. They obtain their supplies of 
 this article from mines of rock-salt in the mountains. 
 
 The excitement occasioned by the threats of "Walkah, the 
 Utah chief, continued to increase during the day we spent at 
 Parawan. Families flocked in from Paragooua, and other small 
 settlements and farms, bringing with them their movables, and 
 their flocks and herds. Parties of mounted men, well armed, 
 patrolled the country; expresses came in from different quar 
 ters, bringing accounts of attacks by the Indians, on small par- 
 
92 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 ties and unprotected farms and houses. During our stay, Wal- 
 kah sent in a polite message to Colonel Gr. A. Smith, who had 
 military command of the district, and governed it by martial law, 
 telling him that "the Mormons were d d fools for abandon 
 ing their houses and towns, for he did not intend to molest them 
 there, as it was his intention to confine his depredations to their 
 cattle, and that he advised them to return and mind their crops, 
 for, if they neglected them, they would starve, and be obliged 
 to leave the country, which w r as not what he desired, for then 
 there would be no cattle for him to take." He ended by de 
 claring war for four years. This message did not tend to allay 
 the fears of the Mormons, who, in this district, were mostly 
 foreigners, and stood in great awe of Indians. 
 
 The Utah chieftain who occasioned all this panic and ex 
 citement, is a man of great subtlety, and indomitable energy. 
 He is not a Utah by birth, but has acquired such an extraor 
 dinary ascendency over that tribe by his daring exploits, that 
 all the restless spirits and ambitious young warriors in it have 
 joined his standard. Having an unlimited supply of fine horses, 
 and being inured to every fatigue and privation, he keeps the 
 territories of New Mexico and Utah, the provinces of Chihuahua 
 and Sonora, and the southern portion of California, in constant 
 alarm. His movements are so rapid, and his plans so skilfully 
 and so secretly laid, that he has never once failed in any en 
 terprise, and has scarcely disappeared from one district before 
 he is heard of in another. He frequently divides his men into 
 two or more bands, which, making their appearance at different 
 points at the same time, each headed, it is given out, by the 
 dreaded Walkah in person, has given him with the ignorant 
 Mexicans, the attribute of ubiquity. The principal object of 
 his forays is to drive off horses and cattle, but more particularly 
 the first ; and among the Utahs we noticed horses with brands 
 familiar to us in New Mexico and California. 
 
 He has adopted the name of Walker (corrupted to Walkah), 
 on account of the close intimacy and friendship which in for 
 mer days united him to Joe Walker, an old mountaineer, and 
 the same who discovered Walker's Pass in the Sierra Nevada. 
 
 This chief had a brother as valiant and crafty as himself, to 
 whom he was greatly attached. Both speaking Spanish and 
 broken English, they were enabled to maintain intercourse with 
 
JOURNEY TO THE MORMON SETTLEMENTS. 93 
 
 the whites without the aid of an interpreter. This brother the 
 Mormons thought they had killed, for, having repelled a night 
 attack on a mill, which was led by him, on the next morning 
 they found a rifle and a hatchet which they recognized as his, 
 and also traces of blood and tracks of men apparently carrying 
 a heavy body. Although rejoicing at the death of one of their 
 most implacable enemies, the Mormons dreaded the wrath of 
 the great chieftain, which they felt would not be appeased until 
 he had avenged his brother's blood in their own. The Mormons 
 were surprised at our having passed in safety through Walkah's 
 territory, and they did not know to what they were to attribute 
 our escape from destruction. They told us that the cattle tracks 
 which we had seen a few days previous were those of a portion 
 of a large drove lifted by Walkah, and that the mounted men 
 we had noticed in the mountains in the evening of August 1, 
 were scouts sent out by him to watch our movements. They 
 endeavored to dissuade us from prosecuting our journey, for 
 they stated that it was unsafe to travel even between their towns 
 without an escort of from twenty-five to thirty men. 
 
 The Mormons had published a reward of fifteen thousand 
 dollars for Walkah's head, but it was a serious question among 
 them who should " bell the cat." 
 
 We procured at Parawan a small supply of flour and some 
 beef, which we buccanSe'd. 
 
 The kind reception that we received from the inhabitants 
 of these settlements, during our short sojourn among them, 
 strongly contrasted with what we had been led to anticipate 
 from the reports of the Mexicans and Indians whom we had 
 met on the road. On our arrival, Colonel G. A. Smith sent 
 an officer to inquire who we were, our business, destination, 
 &c., at the same time apologizing for the inquiries, by stating 
 that the disturbed condition of the country rendered it neces 
 sary to exercise a strict vigilance over all strangers, particularly 
 over those who came from the direction of their enemy's terri 
 tory. Mr. Beale's replies being, of course, satisfactory, we 
 were treated as friends, and received every mark of cordiality. 
 We spent the evening of our arrival in Parawan at the house 
 of Col. Smith, who was in command of this portion of the ter 
 ritory, and was organizing a military force for its protection. 
 He related- to us the origin of these southern settlements, the 
 
94 CENTRAL EOUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 many difficulties and hardships that they had to contend with, 
 and gave us much interesting information of the geography of the 
 surrounding country. He also stated that furnaces for smelting 
 iron ore were already in operation in the vicinity of Paragoona 
 and Parawan, and that the metal, which was obtained in sufficient 
 quantity to supply any demand, was also of an excellent quality ; 
 and that veins of coal had been found near Cedar City, on Coal 
 Creek, eighteen miles south of Parawan, one of which was 
 fifteen feet in thickness, and apparently inexhaustible. A large 
 force of English miners was employed in working these mines, 
 and pronounced the coal to be equal to the best English coal. 
 I saw it used in the forges ; it is bituminous, and burns with a 
 bright flame. 
 
 As regards the odious practice of polygamy which these 
 people have engrafted on their religion, it is not to be sup 
 posed that we could learn much about it during our short stay, 
 and its existence would even have been unobserved by us, had 
 not a " Saint" voluntarily informed us that he was " one of those 
 Mormons who believed in a plurality of wives," and added, 
 " for my part I have six, and this is one of them," pointing to 
 a female who was present. Taking this subject for his text, 
 he delivered a discourse highly eulogistic of the institution of 
 marriage, as seen in a Mormon point of view ; of the antiquity 
 of polygamy, its advantages, the evils it prevents, quoting the 
 example of the patriarchs, and of eastern nations, and backing 
 his argument with statistics of the relative number of males 
 and females born, obtained no doubt from the same source as 
 the Book of Mormon. This discourse did not increase our 
 respect for the tenets he advocated, but we deemed it useless to 
 engage in a controversy with one who made use of such so 
 phistry. From what he said, I inferred that a large number of 
 Mormons do not entirely approve of the " spiritual wife" sys 
 tem, and, judging from some of the households, it was evident 
 that the weaker vessel has in many instances here, as elsewhere, 
 the control of the menage. 
 
 We left Parawan at dusk, having sent most of the party in 
 advance, with directions to await our arrival at the nearest of 
 those rich meadows known as Las Yegas de Santa Clara, about 
 eighteen miles distant. 
 
 On entering the valley of the Little Salt Lake, we came upon 
 
JOURNEY TO THE MORMON SETTLEMENTS. 95 
 
 the line surveyed by Col. Fremont, and described in his report 
 published in 1846. It was our intention to follow this line 
 until we reached Mohaveh Eiver, where we intended to take 
 two or three men and enter Tulare Valley through "Walker's 
 Pass in the Sierra Nevada, allowing the remainder to pursue 
 their journey up the Mohaveh, through the Cajon Pass, to Los 
 Angeles. As the Mormons had opened a wagon-road all the 
 way, we anticipated no difficulty in getting to our journey's 
 end in good time. 
 
 The party arrived at Cedar City about midnight, but indis 
 position prevented me from keeping up with them, and I was 
 finally compelled to spread my blanket near the roadside and 
 rest until morning. Day's travel, 18 miles; whole distance, 
 1,363 miles. 
 
 Aug. 4. I saddled my mule at daylight, and in a few hours 
 reached Cedar City. I was informed here that the party had 
 already left, but that I could overtake the camp a few miles 
 from the town. 
 
 Cedar City is a place of more importance than either Para- 
 wan or Paragoona, but is built on a similar plan. Around it 
 are extensive fields, abundantly irrigated, giving promise of a 
 rich harvest ; the hills in the rear of the town are well timber 
 ed, and it is in this vicinity that the Mormons have discovered 
 the coal veins destined to form the wealth of the region. The 
 inhabitants are principally foreigners, and mostly Englishmen 
 from the coal districts of Great Britain. At the time of our 
 visit, the place was crowded with the people of the surrounding 
 country seeking refuge from the Indians, and its square was 
 blocked up with wagons, furniture, tents, farming implements, 
 &c., in the midst of which were men, women, and children, 
 together with every description of cattle, creating a scene of 
 confusion difficult to describe. 
 
 I overtook the camp in a large grove of cottonwoods, and we 
 immediately resumed our journey. 
 
 It is here that we saw the first of the meadows of Santa 
 Clara, which give some celebrity to this region. They are 
 embraced between 37 and 38 north latitude. This vega was 
 covered with tender grass and watered by numerous streams, 
 which preserve its freshness even during the most sultry sea- 
 
96 CENTEAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 sons. To travellers from the south, coming off the desert lying 
 between the Mohaveh and these vegas, they certainly offer a 
 delightful relief; and, although our animals had only recently 
 been luxuriating in the rich mountain pastures of the Wah- 
 satch, their uniform verdure and level surface, shaded in many 
 places by extensive glades of cottonwoods, offered a delightful 
 feeling of security, as though we were once more within the 
 confines of civilization. 
 
 We now travelled on the Mormon wagon-trail leading to San 
 Bernardino, in the south of California. We had heard of an 
 other route leading west to Owen's Eiver, thence through a 
 pass in the Sierra Nevada, which leads into the Tulare Valley 
 near the head of the Four Creeks ; but unfortunately we were 
 unable to take this route, for we could neither obtain a guide 
 nor even information on the subject ; and, moreover, it would 
 have been departing from his views of examining the country on 
 the Mohaveh, for the purpose of locating Indians there, for Mr. 
 Beale to have altered his course. .- The route by Owen's Eiver 
 shortens the distance nearly two hundred_ miles, cutting off the 
 large elbow to the southwest, and, according to the accounts we 
 had received, it conducts over a tolerably level, well watered, 
 and grassy country. 
 
 We rested for a short time at noon, and then travelled until 
 10 P. M. over a level plain and good wagon-road, on each side 
 of which was much dry grass; but we saw no water until en 
 camping on a vega (meadow) which we reached through a 
 gap in the mountains on our left. This meadow was about 
 seven miles in length, penetrating deep into the mountains, 
 and, although there was little running water, yet the grass was 
 everywhere green and tender. Day's travel, 38 miles ; whole 
 distance, 1,401 miles. 
 
 Aug. 5. We returned to the plain, and continued to travel 
 south by west until noon, when we encamped in the most 
 southern of the vegas, which was more beautiful than any we 
 had yet seen rich in waving grass, and watered by numerous 
 rills. It is inclosed by a low ridge of hills; its declivity is 
 mostly to the northward ; being on the rim of the Great Salt 
 Lake Basin, in fact, on the divide, a portion of its waters run 
 into the Basin, whilst the Bio de Santa Clara, which runs into 
 
JOURNEY TO THE MORMON SETTLEMENTS. 97 
 
 the Eio de la Virgen, a tributary of the Great Colorado, takes 
 its rise here. 
 
 These vegas are called by the Mormons Mountain Meadows. 
 
 In the afternoon, travelling south, we descended a slope, 
 which brought us after dark to Santa Clara Creek, near which 
 we encamped. Day's travel, 28 miles ; whole distance, 1,429 
 miles. 
 
98 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM LAS VEGAS DE SANTA CLARA. PASSAGE OF 
 THE DESERT. ARRIVAL AT LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 August 6. The Santa Clara at our encampment was a slender 
 rill ; but a few miles lower down, its volume was considerably 
 increased by the accession of several streams. 
 
 We were now approaching the desert, and we this day 
 travelled only ten miles, to allow our animals to recruit by rest 
 and food. The road followed down the stream, and although 
 level, was much overgrown with bushes. 
 
 After travelling a few miles, we met a small party of Pah- 
 Utah Indians, who evinced great joy at seeing us, accosting us 
 without fear. On approaching their village, a collection of 
 miserable bush huts, we were met by an aged Indian, appa 
 rently their chief, holding in his hand a pipe, the stem of which 
 was a reed and the bowl a piece of tin. "With much gravity, 
 he bade us welcome to his village, and after blowing three 
 wreaths of smoke towards the sun, he offered us their symbol 
 of friendship, with which we imitated his example. As soon 
 as we had dismounted, a venerable squaw, laboring under great 
 excitement, rushed towards Mr. Beale, and seizing his hands, 
 forced into them a couple of green tunias (prickly pears), which 
 she invited him to eat, a ceremony, I have no doubt, having a 
 meaning as mystical as the first. And having thus entered 
 into bonds to keep the peace and complied with all the exigen 
 cies of etiquette, we were considered the guests of the nation. 
 
 Among these Indians we witnessed one of the benefits which 
 they have derived from their intercourse with the Mormons, 
 who take every opportunity to ameliorate the condition of this 
 wretched tribe. Near their village was a large and well-irri 
 gated field, cultivated with care, and planted with corn, pump 
 kins, squashes, and melons. 
 
PASSAGE OF THE DESERT. 99 
 
 The Pah-Utah Indians are the greatest horse thieves on the 
 continent. Rarely attempting the bold coups-de-main of the 
 Utahs, they dog travellers during their march and follow on 
 their trail like jackals, cutting off any stragglers whom they 
 can surprise and overpower, and pick up such animals as 
 stray from the band or lag behind from fatigue. At night, 
 lurking around the camp, and concealing themselves behind 
 rocks and bushes, they communicate with each other by imi 
 tating the sounds of birds and animals. They never ride, but 
 use as food the horses and mules that they steal, and, if within 
 arrow-shot of one of these animals, a poisoned shaft secures 
 him as their prize. Their arms are bows and arrows tipped 
 with obsidian, and lances sometimes pointed with iron, which 
 they obtain from the wrecks of wagons found along the road ; 
 they also use a pronged stick to drag lizards from their holes. 
 
 The Indians being apprehensive that our animals might tres 
 pass on their field, which was without inclosure, we permitted 
 them to drive the band several miles up the stream, where we 
 had noticed an abundance of white clover ; and, whilst thus 
 confiding in them, we had security for their honesty by several 
 Indians passing the night in our camp, where they laid near 
 the fire, coiled up like dogs ; besides which, their women and 
 children, and entire crops, on which they depended for their 
 subsistence during the approaching winter, were also in our 
 power. 
 
 In the afternoon we visited their huts, which presented a 
 squalid scene of dirt and wretchedness. When the women saw 
 us approaching they concealed their children, fearing that we 
 might wish to carry them off. Noticing that something moved 
 under a large wicker basket, one of us examined its contents, 
 which were found to be a little naked fellow, his teeth chatter 
 ing with fear. 
 
 Yearly expeditions are fitted out in New Mexico to trade 
 with the Pah-Utahs for their children, and recourse is often had 
 to foul means to force their parents to part with them. So 
 common is it to make a raid for this purpose, that it is consi 
 dered as no more objectionable than to go on a buffalo or a 
 mustang hunt. One of our men, Jose* Galliego, who was an 
 old hand at this species of man-hunting, related to us, with 
 evident gusto, numerous anecdotes on this subject ; and as we 
 
100 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 approached the village, he rode up to Mr. Beale, and eagerly 
 proposed to him that we should "charge on it like h 1, kill the 
 mans, and may-be catch some of the little boys and gak" 
 
 Camp was all day crowded with men and squaws ; the former 
 had reduced their costume to first principles, and even the latter 
 were attired in a style of the most primitive simplicity. They 
 spoke with great volubility and vehemence, using many gesticu 
 lations, regardless of the common usage of other Indians, of 
 speaking but one at a time. It appeared as though they thought 
 aloud, and were not addressing any one in particular. Our 
 ragged and forlorn appearance, unshaven chins, and sun-scarred 
 visages, excited great merriment, and they used no ceremony 
 in pointing and laughing at us. Day's travel, 10 miles ; whole 
 distance, 1,439 miles. 
 
 August 7. The Indians drove our animals into camp before 
 dawn, and we were on the road at sunrise, travelling down the 
 Santa Clara. In ten miles the road diverged to the right from 
 the creek, and for eight miles passed through a region of rugged 
 and arid hills and canons, when it issued upon an inclined 
 plane leading to the Rio de la Virgen. Although generally 
 level, it was a rough road for wagons, and with the exception 
 of one good spring, four miles from the Santa Clara, we saw 
 no water until we encamped on the Virgen. A scanty growth 
 of cactus, agave americana, greasewood, and small cedars, was 
 the only vegetation after leaving the creek. A Pah-Utah 
 handed me some ears of wheat, the grains of which I preserved, 
 and he stated that it grows spontaneously near the Santa Clara. 
 It is from this stock that the New Mexicans have obtained the 
 seed which they call Payute wheat, and the Mormons, Taos wheat. 
 It has been much improved by cultivation, and is considered 
 the best in New Mexico and Utah. A party of Indians accom 
 panied us for twelve miles, begging for tabac, and we noticed 
 several smokes during the day, and fires after dark, made by the 
 natives on the Virgen, to warn the country of our approach. 
 We set double guard at night, and the mules evinced by their 
 restlessness and uneasiness the vicinity of Pah-Utahs. Day's 
 travel, 35 miles; whole distance, 1,474 miles. 
 
 August 8. The Rio de la Virgen is a turbid and shallow 
 stream, about twelve yards in breadth. It flows with a rapid 
 current over a sandy bed, and as we descended it, the growth 
 
PASSAGE OF THE DESERT. 101 
 
 of cottonwood gave place to mesquit trees and willows. The 
 mesquit tree bears in some localities an abundance of sweet 
 pods, on which mules feed greedily, and they are a good sub 
 stitute for corn, being almost as nutritious. We crossed scanty 
 patches of wiry salt grass, which affords but little nourishment. 
 
 The river bottom was hemmed in by bluffs, beyond which, 
 on the right, was an extensive plain much cut up by gullies, 
 and on the left a range of dark mountains, which in many 
 places came down to the river's edge. The road which followed 
 down the bottom, was at times through deep sand, as was mostly 
 the case since leaving the Yegas de Santa Clara. The scenery 
 was gloomy and forbidding, and gave indication that we were 
 approaching a wild and desolate region. We noticed during 
 the day many fresh Indian tracks, and at times caught glimpses 
 of dark forms gliding through the bushes on either side. Day's 
 march, 29 miles ; whole distance, 1,503 miles. 
 
 August 9. By keeping a watchful guard, our animals were 
 saved from the Pah-Utahs, who hovered around us all night. 
 
 We rode down the Virgen ten miles farther, when we left it 
 to cross the hot and sterile plain, eight miles broad, extending 
 between the Yirgen and the Rio Atascoso (Muddy Creek). It 
 was thickly covered with sharp flints, and bore a scanty growth 
 of stunted mesquit bushes, which on the dry plains bear few 
 pods ; for a couple of miles from each stream the country was 
 much broken by ravines. 
 
 Rio Atascoso is a narrow stream, but in many places quite 
 deep ; its water is clear, and it derives its name from the slimy 
 and miry nature of its banks and bed. Day's march, 18 miles ; 
 whole distance, 1,521 miles. 
 
 August 10. We again had Indians around us all night, mak 
 ing their usual signals, but by keeping a strict double guard 
 they were prevented from stealing or wounding our animals. 
 Soon after sunrise, a party of Pah-Utahs showed their heads 
 from behind some rocks near camp, and shouted to us ; find 
 ing that we did not attempt to molest them, they cautiously 
 exposed more of their persons, and finally dropped among us 
 by twos and threes, until they numbered fifteen. They pro 
 fessed entire innocence of being concerned in the proceedings 
 of the previous night, laying them all to the charge of other 
 Pah-Utahs, and expressed for us the warmest attachment. At 
 
102 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 this time a strange figure, entirely divested of clothing, suddenly 
 made his appearance on the summit of a rock thirty yards from 
 us ; his face was covered with a thick coating of crimson paint, 
 a slender bone, eight inches in length, was thrust through the 
 septum of his nose, and in his left hand he carried a bow and 
 a bunch of arrows. This worthy addressed us a long speech, 
 introducing himself as the great chief of all the Pah-Utahs 
 (which was false, as they recognize no chief), intimating that the 
 monotonous existence which he had hitherto been leading had 
 become irksome to him, that he wished to travel and see the 
 white man's world, and that, if we consented to admit him into 
 our company, he would endeavor to "make himself generally 
 useful." He ended by offering to give himself away to any one 
 who would accept of him. Although any accession to our 
 number was not at all desirable, to have refused his request 
 would have nipped in the bud the aspirations of this ambitious 
 youth, Mr. Beale therefore allowed him to join our party, hand 
 ing him a pair of old buckskin pants and a woollen shirt, which 
 he at once donned, feeling very proud, but very uncomfortable. 
 
 The first Jornada (long distance between waters) across the 
 desert commences at the Muddy; and to avoid the heat which 
 at this season is very oppressive during the day, we did not re 
 sume our journey until the afternoon. The road led us for six 
 miles up a broad and sandy ravine, issuing from which we en 
 tered upon an extensive and undulating plain, whose sandy and 
 stony soil produced no vegetation except artemisia. We 
 travelled all night, during which a hot wind blew from the 
 southward. 
 
 August 11. Dawn found us still on the Jornada, between Mud 
 dy Creek and the Ojo del Gaetan (Spring of Gaetau) or Vega 
 Quintana, as this meadow is sometimes called, which we reached 
 at 8 A. M. without the loss of an animal. Thus far we had lost 
 three mules ; one was drowned in the Uncompagre, another 
 was left on the Virgen, and the third at the Muddy. Both of 
 the latter were animals that we had obtained on the journey, 
 and, being unshod, became tender-footed and were unable to 
 keep up with the train. 
 
 The Vega Quintana is a meadow of several thousand acres in 
 extent, watered through its centre by two deep but narrow 
 
PASSAGE OF THE DESERT. 103 
 
 streams of clear and icy cold water.* It is shaded in many 
 places with mesquit trees, willows, and vines covered with clus 
 ters of small but sweet grapes. Two Pah-Utahs, who were 
 gathering mesquit beans, fled in alarm at our approach, and 
 we saw numerous coveys of the California partridge. This 
 oasis deserves the name of The Diamond of the Desert, so 
 beautiful and bright does it appear in the centre of the dreary 
 waste that surrounds it. Dusty and weary as we were, after our 
 long and toilsome ride, a bath in the brook was a luxury in 
 which we indulged more than once during the day that we 
 spent here. Day's march, 45 miles; whole distance, 1,566 miles. 
 
 August 12. "We reached the second vega, Quintana, at 11 
 A. M., after riding seventeen miles southwest by west ; the road 
 passed over a stony desert, which produced no other vegetation 
 than stunted artemisia and an occasional cactus and mesquit 
 bush. The rivulet which here fertilizes the ground and pro 
 duces some verdure issues from the mountains through a bald 
 and rugged gap. 
 
 This vega is a favorite camping place of the Mormons, and 
 is covered with the wrecks of wagons and of stoves and other 
 iron work. 
 
 All our provisions, except pinole, were now exhausted ; and 
 as this was our only dependence, we made a division of what 
 remained between the ten persons who now (since the Pah- 
 Utah had joined us) composed our party. We found that 
 by using only six table-spoonfuls each per day, the pinole 
 might be made to last until our arrival in the settlements of 
 California. We had seen no game for many days, nor did we 
 expect to meet any until we reached the Mohaveh. Day's 
 march, 17 miles ; whole distance, 1,583 miles. 
 
 August 13. Wearied with watching all night, we resumed 
 our journey at dawn. Indians were around us as usual, and 
 many signs of their vicinity, which would have escaped our 
 notice, were pointed out to us by " Pite," as we had christened 
 our new follower. We had scarcely started, before a torrent of 
 yells and abuse was poured upon us from every side. No one 
 could be perceived, but every rock and bush apparently con- 
 
 * In May, 1844, Colonel Frdmont ascertained the temperature of these springs 
 as being 71 and 73 respectively. We found them so cold that it required Bome 
 resolution to bathe in them. 
 
104 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 cealed an Indian. Pite was not slow in replying to them, and 
 for a moment they were silent with astonishment at receiving, 
 in such pure vernacular, a reply to their insults. Soon, however, 
 the war of words was renewed with fresh fury, and had we 
 understood them, we should doubtless have enjoyed a very 
 choice specimen of Pah-Utah billingsgate. Pite prudently kept 
 close among us ; brave as he was with his tongue, he entertained 
 a wholesome" fear of falling into the hands of his fellow-country 
 men, for they would soon have brought his travels to a close. 
 
 Our road led us through a canon or chasm which we had 
 entered the previous day ; it followed the bed of the stream, 
 and was much obstructed by heavy sand and scattered rocks. 
 We passed two singular caves, one of which presented a close 
 resemblance to the cyclopean order of architecture, with the 
 principle of the arch and keystone admirably preserved. The 
 other forcibly reminded us of the facade of an old Catholic 
 church, such as is often seen in Italy. 
 
 After travelling ten miles through rocky ravines, with bald 
 and furrowed mountains on either side, we ascended a ridge 
 which brought in view an extensive and barren plain, bounded 
 on all sides by lofty mountains. To the westward we perceived 
 a range which extended from north to south, and which ap 
 peared to have frequent breaks in it. 
 
 In the afternoon, we arrived at the Aqua Escarbada, where 
 we expected to have to dig for water ; but the ground had been 
 so deeply excavated, that a running spring had been reached. 
 
 Shortly before reaching this place, we found on the road-side 
 the remains of an American, with the mark of a rifle-ball in 
 his skull. From papers which were scattered around, we ascer 
 tained that he was a Mormon on an exploring expedition, and 
 his buckskin garments not having been wet by rain, proved 
 that he had been killed this season. Day's travel, 25 miles ; 
 total, 1,608 miles. 
 
 August 14. Twelve miles from the Escarbada, the road 
 makes a sudden bend to the westward, and ascends a steep 
 ridge, from the top of which a magnificent, but solemn and 
 dreary view presented itself. Four ranges of mountains, over 
 topping each other, extended from north to south, and bounded 
 the western horizon ; to the eastward was spread a wide extent 
 of countn^, which offered, in every direction, the same absence 
 
PASSAGE OF THE DESERT. 105 
 
 of timber, and of almost all vegetation. The solitude was 
 unrelieved by the song of bird or the chirp of insect ; the 
 mournful murmur of the breeze, as it swept over the desert, 
 was the only sound that broke the silence. In many places, a 
 deceptive mirage spread fictitious lakes and spectral groves to 
 our view, which a puff of wind, or a change in our position, 
 suddenly dissolved. 
 
 A rapid descent down a sinuous ravine, from two to three 
 miles in length, brought us to the sink in the plain, where is 
 found the Ojo de Archilete (Archilete's Spring), at some dis 
 tance from which are many small willows, but in its immediate 
 vicinity there is a total absence of shade ; the water is clear and 
 cool, but slightly brackish. A cruel tragedy, heroically avenged 
 by Kit Carson and Alexander Godey, and recorded by Fre"- 
 mont, occurred here in 1844, and has rendered this spot memo 
 rable ; we found near the spring the skull of an Indian, killed 
 perhaps in that affray. Day's travel, 22 miles ; whole distance, 
 1,630 miles. 
 
 August 15. A ride of five miles brought us to the Amargosa 
 (Bitter Creek), a ravine containing a scanty supply of warm, 
 fetid, and nauseating water, in a succession of holes. We 
 encamped at the foot of a rock on its eastern side, where a slen 
 der brackish spring barely supplied our wants. The valley, or 
 broad ravine, through which the Amargosa, during the rainy 
 season, is for a few miles a running stream, winds with a gene 
 ral course from southeast to northwest, and is hemmed in by 
 steep black and rocky hills. 
 
 The second Jornada across the desert commences at the 
 Amargosa, and ends at the Agua del Tio Meso (the Spring of 
 Uncle Meso). It is fifty miles in length, and we anticipated 
 much toil and suffering in crossing it. "We endeavored to. 
 guard against the loss of our mules from hunger, by laying in 
 a small supply of green reeds and mesquit beans, the only 
 forage, except salt grass, that could be obtained here ; and, not 
 expecting to find water the whole distance, all our canteens 
 were filled. 
 
 We commenced this dreary journey at 2 P. M. The heat 
 
 was intense, aad, instead of diminishing as the sun descended,. 
 
 it became more oppressive. For twelve miles the road was 
 
 over deep sand, into which the mules sank above their fetlocks. 
 
 8 
 
106 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 In fifteen miles, we diverged to the left across a spur of rocky 
 hills, the road leading through a ravine, where, much to our 
 surprise, we discovered the remains of houses, rastres (Mexican 
 quartz crushers), and all the appliances of gold mining. These 
 we subsequently ascertained were the Salt Spring Gold Mines, 
 where a fortune had been sunk by men who were sufficiently 
 deluded or sanguine to abandon the rich mines of California, 
 travel across one hundred and fifty miles of desert, and live 
 upwards of twelve months in a spot so desolate and forlorn that 
 there is actually not sufficient vegetation to keep a goat from 
 starvation. We here found two springs, one sulphurous and 
 nauseating, the other brackish. The canteens were replenished, 
 but it was impossible to water the mules. 
 
 August 16. The heat increased as we advanced into the desert, 
 and most of the party had divested themselves of the greater part 
 of their clothing. The guns, which we carried across the pum 
 mels of our saddles, were hot to the touch ; and, to add to our 
 annoyance and suffering, the wind, ladened with an impalpable 
 sand, blew fiercely from the southward, feeling as if issuing from 
 the mouth of a furnace, and obliterating in many places all traces 
 of the road. The mules, already jaded by travelling across the 
 sandy plain, went slowly along, their heads drooping to the 
 ground. The pale moon, occasionally overshadowed by clouds, 
 threw a ghastly light over the desert, and skeletons of animals 
 glistening in her beams, strewed the way, adding horror to the 
 scene. 
 
 Shortly before dawn we entered some hills to the westward, 
 where the heat was less intense. Three of the mules were un 
 able to go farther, and their saddles and packs were placed on 
 other animals, and men left with them, together' with some 
 reeds and beans and a small supply of water. We were now all 
 on foot, our animals having barely sufficient strength to carry 
 their saddles. At daylight we began to scatter, and those who 
 could go in advance did so, for our thirst was beginning to be 
 intolerable. It was not until 10 A. M., after twenty hours of 
 continuous march, completely prostrated with heat, toil, hunger, 
 and thirst, that we reached the Agua del Tio Meso. 
 
 This camping ground (which is called on the maps Agua del 
 Tomaso) has two small pools fed by tiny springs. The water 
 in the pools is only fit for animals, and that in the springs we 
 
PASSAGE OF THE DESERT. 107 
 
 found barely drinkable; the grass was scanty and salt; but 
 when mules are starving, they are not particular in their choice 
 of food. 
 
 The men who had been left with the mules joined us late in 
 the afternoon ^ they had suffered much, but brought in all the 
 animals. Poor Pite was not the last one in; his thirst was 
 dreadful, and when he reached the spring he threw himself on 
 the ground and drank to repletion. 
 
 This spring is named after an old Mexican called Meso, who 
 was styled Tio, or uncle, on account of his age. He discovered 
 it when he and his party were nearly perishing with thirst. 
 Their happy deliverance was celebrated by a great feast ; he 
 washed and dressed himself, and rambled about the place sing 
 ing until he fell dead, killed by a stroke of apoplexy. Two 
 peons, abandoned on the desert by their master, reached this 
 spring after their party had left for the Mohaveh. Unable to 
 proceed farther, they both died of starvation, and the next tra 
 vellers who encamped here, found their skeletons locked in 
 each other's embrace, as if they had expired in the act of de 
 vouring one another. 
 
 These painful associations, together with the utterly desolate 
 appearance of all around, cast a gloom over our spirits ; and 
 we could not raise them, as old Tio Meso did, by a feast ; for 
 all.we had that day was a couple of spoonsful of boiled pinole. 
 The road across the Jornada is good, with the exception of the 
 first twelve miles, where it is sandy. The only vegetation that 
 I noticed was artemisia, on the plains, and mesquit and dry 
 greasewood among the hills. Day's march, 55 miles; whole 
 distance, 1,685 miles. 
 
 August 17. During the night we had a heavy storm; the 
 howling wind, blowing from the desert, was hot and filled with 
 sand, and the rain fell in large drops, without refreshing 
 the air. 
 
 The Agua del Tio Meso is an oasis ; for, although a wretched 
 spot, it is the only resting-place in the desert between the 
 Amargosa and the Eiver Mohaveh. We were glad to leave it, 
 at 4 A. M. Two of the mules soon showed signs of failing, 
 and remained on the road in charge of one of the Mexicans. 
 We rested for a few minutes at 10 A. M. to breakfast, having 
 filled our canteens at Tio Meso's spring. The Delaware had 
 
108 CENTRAL EOUTE TO* THE PACIFIC. 
 
 killed a rabbit, the first of any game that we had seen for a 
 long time ; but we left it on the road, with some water, for the 
 Mexican, as we feared that he might be delayed until late. 
 
 The desert retained its level and monotonous character until 
 we reached Mohaveh Eiver, at 7 P. M., our animals almost 
 perishing from hunger and thirst. 
 
 The sandy soil through which the Mohaveh flows absorbs 
 nearly all its water, and where we struck it it was no longer a 
 running stream. Grass, however, was everywhere abundant, 
 together with a thick growth of willows, reeds, and mesquit 
 bushes, interlaced with grape-vines ; and in some places there 
 were beautiful groves of cotton woods. 
 
 All our troubles as regarded a scarcity of water and grass 
 were now at an end, and from this point our journey was over 
 a level country, offering no impediment whatever to a good 
 road as far as the settlements in California. Except on the edge 
 of the river, however, the land was barren and unproductive, 
 offering no point fit for settlement. 
 
 Mr. Beale and myself had intended on reaching the Mohaveh 
 to have gone in advance of our people ; but we could not leave 
 them in their starving condition. It was also our intention to 
 have selected two or three of the men to accompany us across* 
 the desert between the Mohaveh and Walker's Pass, in the 
 Sierra Nevada ; but we found that of all our animals there were 
 not five that could travel over twenty miles a day ; and, as the ' 
 intervening country was entirely destitute of water and grass, 
 we were compelled reluctantly to relinquish this object. 
 
 The Mexican left with the mules arrived at 11 P. M., having 
 remained faithfully by them until he brought them in. We thus 
 crossed this desert without abandoning a single animal, which 
 is, I believe, almost unprecedented. Day's travel, 30 miles ; 
 whole distance, 1,715 miles. 
 
 August 18. We allowed our mules to rest until the afternoon 
 before we proceeded up the Mohaveh. Its course is from the 
 west through a broad level plain, bounded on either side by 
 lofty mountains. Its water increased as we ascended it, and we 
 found several large ponds well stocked with fish. Day's travel, 
 8 miles ; total, 1,723 miles. 
 
 August 19. The road was through heavy sand, and often left 
 the river at a distance of two miles. We encamped at noon 
 
PASSAGE OF THE DESERT. 109 
 
 near a large and deep pond of very cool and clear water, alive 
 with fish, principally mullets, some of which were large. We 
 had just finished our allowance of pinole, when the Delaware 
 rode into camp with a splendid antelope lashed behind his sad 
 dle, and reported that he had shot another, which was imme 
 diately sent for. As the question of starvation was now set at 
 rest, it was determined that Mr. Beale and myself and two of 
 the men should proceed as rapidly as our mules could travel, 
 whilst the remainder of the party were to follow us by easy 
 stages to the settlements. Day's travel, 19 miles ; whole dis 
 tance, 1,742 miles. 
 
 August 20. Accompanied by the Delaware and Harry Young, 
 we started in advance of the party, and before noon had ridden 
 twenty miles up the right bank of the Mohaveh. Its bottom 
 was covered in many places with a thick undergrowth, and oc 
 casionally by large groves of cottonwood, and bounded on the 
 south by high and rugged hills. The weather was pleasant, 
 with a breeze from the westward. 
 
 Where we crossed the Mohaveh it was a rapid stream, twenty- 
 five yards in breadth and one foot in depth, but its water was 
 too warm to be drinkable. Passed several fine meadows near 
 the river, and saw bands of antelopes, also hares and v partridges. 
 After a rest of seven hours we resumed our journey, the road 
 leading up to an extensive plain, thickly covered with cedars 
 and pines, intermingled with palmyra cactus and aloes. It forks 
 about ten miles from the river. The lefthand fork, which we 
 took, follows the old Spanish trail, whilst the other, which had 
 been recently opened by the Mormons, makes a bend to avoid 
 a rough portion of country. They both join again in the Cajon 
 Pass. We travelled until IIP. M., when we rested under the 
 cedars on the plain, where we found dry bunch grass, but no 
 water. Day's travel, 40 miles ; whole distance, 1,782 miles. 
 
 August 21. For the last time the cry of "catch up" was 
 heard, and we saddled our mules before dawn, impatient to 
 reach our journey's end. On approaching the mountains*, 
 which extended between us and the valley of Los Angeles, the 
 country presented a more broken appearance. After travelling 
 six miles, we commenced descending the Pacific slope, and 
 soon after reached the head waters of the Santa Anna, a creek 
 rising to the eastward of the mountains, and which finds its 
 
110 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 way through the Cajon Pass tp the Pacific Ocean, south of San 
 Pedro. 
 
 We entered this pass, arid the most magnificent scenery pre 
 sented itself to our eyes. Around us were lofty mountains, 
 their summits clothed with pines and their base with chimsal, 
 mansanita, dwarf oaks, and aloes. In the valley were numerous 
 clusters of sycamore, which attains here a large size, and is one 
 of the most beautiful trees in the country. The ground was 
 covered with innumerable tracks of grizzly bears, and the 
 Delaware kept a keen lookout for the rough-coated gentry. 
 During our journey, he had killed at least one specimen of each 
 species of game to be found in the region which we had tra 
 versed, and he was anxious to have an encounter with the 
 largest and fiercest of them all, the mighty grizzly of California; 
 but he was disappointed ; although our men, in coming through 
 this pass a few days later, had a desperate fight with a bear, 
 which they finally overcame. 
 
 We issued from the mountains at noon, when the beautiful 
 valley of San Bernardino, with its stupendous mountain, broke 
 upon our view. Never did so beautiful a sight gladden the 
 eyes of weary travellers ; and, having been in the saddle since 
 dawn, we turned our jaded mules into a rich meadow, where 
 the grass reached to their knees, and we rested under the shade 
 of a grove of sycamores. 
 
 Leaving the valley of San Bernardino behind us, we directed 
 our course northwest in the direction of Los Angeles. We 
 travelled steadily until nightfall without perceiving any signs 
 of habitations, though our hopes were constantly kept alive by 
 fresh tracks of men and cattle ; finally, at nine o'clock, when 
 we were on the point of dismounting, our weary beasts being 
 scarcely able to lift their feet, we were saluted by the cheering 
 bark of a dog, and in a few minutes found ourselves in the 
 centre of a large cluster of buildings, -and welcomed in the 
 most friendly manner to Cocomongo Eanchio, by the Mexican 
 proprietor. Day's travel, 35 miles ; whole distance, 1,817 
 miles. 
 
 August 22. Our arrival at the Eanchio de Cocomongo will 
 long be a green spot in our memories ; and it was a pleasant 
 sight to us to witness the satisfaction of our travel-worn mules, 
 
PASSAGE OF THE DESERT. Ill 
 
 in passing from unremitting toil and scanty food to complete 
 rest and abundant nourishment. 
 
 "We obtained fresh horses, and a gallop of thirty -five miles 
 through a rich and settled country brought us to the city of 
 Los Angeles, where every kindness and attention was shown to 
 us by Mr. "Wilson, Indian Agent, and his accomplished lady. 
 
 "We had been given up for lost, and several parties had gone 
 in search of us. Some of our friends had spent six weeks in 
 Walker's Pass, where they expected us to arrive, and had kept 
 up fires by night and smokes by day on a point visible at a 
 long distance in the desert, to guide us in case we should have 
 lost our way. Day's march, 35 miles; total distance from 
 "Westport, Missouri, to Los Angeles, California, 1,852 miles. 
 
 The remainder of our party arrived two days later, and thus, 
 without serious accident to any of the men, and with the loss 
 of only three of the mules, we accomplished the distance from 
 Westport to Los Angeles in exactly one hundred days. Some 
 of the party, however, had travelled seven hundred and fifteen 
 miles more, in going to Taos from Grand Eiver and in returning. 
 
RESUME.' 
 
 CENTRAL ROUTE FROM WESTPORT, MISSOURI, 
 TO LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 SECTION" I. 
 From Westportj Missouri, to Council Grove, 122 miles. 
 
 THIS portion of the route is over a broad wagon-road, excel 
 lent in summer, but heavy rains render it impassable at certain 
 points, where slight bridges would obviate all difficulties. 
 
 Bridges are required at Bull Creek, One Hundred and 
 Ten, Dragoon Creek, Council Grove, and two other points. 
 Trains are sometimes detained at these runs for weeks by 
 heavy rains. A few thousand dollars ($3,000) would be suffi 
 cient to render this road as good as any in the States, at all 
 seasons. 
 
 Grass along this section is abundant, and camping places 
 frequent. 
 
 At Council Grove, there is a large, well-furnished store, 
 where a constant supply of everything required for the road is 
 kept. Also, a good farrier and blacksmith. Parties from New 
 Mexico can here obtain a refit at prices much under those they 
 have to pay in New Mexico. 
 
 The country around Council Grove is rich in pasturage, and 
 well timbered. When the Indian titles are extinguished, and 
 a territorial government established, this country will be imme 
 diately and thickly settled. 
 
114 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 l 
 
 SECTION II. 
 From Council Grove to Fort Atkinson, Arkansas River, 239 miles. 
 
 The face of the country is level. It is all prairie, gently 
 undulating. Cotton wood Creek, Little Arkansas, and Pawnee 
 Fork, require bridging ; with these exceptions, the road is firm 
 and good. 
 
 Except at three or four points, the country is destitute of 
 timber. Pasturage good. 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 From Fort Atkinson (Arkansas River) to mouth of Huerfano River, 
 
 247 miles. 
 
 The country is a rolling prairie, and its surface more uneven, 
 with a gradual ascent to the westward of about seven feet to 
 the mile. 
 
 No timber on the left bank of the Arkansas (it having all 
 been destroyed) until we reach the Big Timbers, where there 
 is an extensive grove of cottonwoods. From thence to the 
 Huerfano there is an abundance of timber. 
 
 The soil is dry and hard, and the road excellent. The grass 
 is more rank in the river bottom, and scantier on the plains. 
 Good camping grounds are to be found every few miles. 
 
 SECTION IV. 
 From the mouth of the Huerfano to Fort Massachusetts, 85 miles. 
 
 A gently undulating plain leads from the Arkansas to the 
 foot of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and the Sierra Mojada, 
 from which the Huerfano issues. ' It is covered with good 
 bunch grass, and the river bottom is well timbered, and affords 
 excellent pasturage. 
 
 The Huerfano, at the season that we crossed it (early in June), 
 was swollen by melting snows, but we had no difficulty in find 
 ing a good ford. 
 
 These plains abound with game deer, antelopes, and hares ; 
 and, near the river, wild turkeys. 
 
KESUME. 115 
 
 The Huerfano enters a canon about thirty-four miles from 
 its mouth, through which it runs for about ten miles ; and both 
 sides of the river are here much broken by gullies. These 
 may be avoided by keeping at a distance of from two to three 
 miles from it. After passing the canon, the best road is near 
 the stream. j. Jhjnarv 
 
 Following the river, the road enters the Sangre de Cristo 
 Mountains, about forty -three miles above its mouth. 
 
 The best pass through these mountains is Eoubideau's. Its 
 elevation is so moderate, that some sandhills in San Luis Val 
 ley, of moderate elevation, can be perceived some time before 
 reaching the pass. It is obstructed with dead timber, which is 
 the principal difficulty to overcome. Another pass, traversed 
 by travellers on horseback, crosses an elevated ridge near the 
 head waters of Sangre de Cristo, which flows west into San Luis 
 Valley, and down this to Utah Creek. 
 
 Eich pasturage, timber, and water abound all through these 
 mountains, and they teem with game. 
 
 SECTION v. 
 From Fort Massachusetts to Coocliatope Pass, 124 miles. 
 
 Eighty-one miles of this distance is over a perfectly level 
 country. The road leaves Utah Creek, and in twenty-five miles, 
 course N. W., descends into the bottom lands of the Del Norte. 
 It then crosses numerous sloughs, until it reaches a point 30 
 miles beyond, where it leaves the river, and goes in a N. by W. 
 course for the entrance of Sahwatch Valley, and up that to the 
 entrance of Coochatope Pass. After entering this pass, for 
 seven miles the ascent is very gradual ; it then becomes more 
 rapid until the dividing ridge is crossed. The sloughs of the 
 Del Norte can be avoided by a detour to the right. 
 
 San Luis Valley is quite level, and from twenty to twenty -five 
 miles in breadth. Sahwatch Valley is five miles broad at its 
 entrance, and gradually narrows to one mile, and is also per 
 fectly level. The valley of the Coochumpah, in which is the 
 Puerto de los Cibolas (Coochatope), is closely hemmed in by 
 hills, and its ascent is scarcely perceptible until we reach with 
 in a couple of miles of the divide. 
 
 Good pasturage is found on numerous points on the Del 
 
116 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 Norte ; scanty grass in San Luis Valley, except at the crossing 
 of Garita Creek, fourteen miles from the Del Norte, and at a 
 spring, about ten miles north of the Garita, at both of which good 
 pasturage is abundant. Throughout Sa watch and Coochumpah 
 valleys, abundant grass, timber, and water are found. 
 
 Coochatope Pass is much obstructed by trees and underwood, 
 and it had only been travelled by Indians and Indian traders 
 with pack mules, at the time of our passing through; since 
 then two wagon trains have gone through. 
 
 The Carnero Pass leads from San Luis Valley to Grand Eiver. 
 Its principal obstruction is a quantity of dead timber in one of 
 the valleys, which might soon be removed by burning. Grass, 
 wood, and water as abundant as in the Coochatope Pass. The 
 trail to the Carnero leaves the Del Norte about eighteen miles 
 above where that to the Coochatope leaves it, and joins the 
 trail through the latter, near the Eio Jaroso (Willow Creek). 
 
 SECTION vi. 
 From Coochatope Pass to Grand River, 134 miles. 
 
 This section passes over the mountainous country comprised 
 within the Sahwatch range. The road is entirely practicable 
 for wagons. A more level road makes a detour of eighty 
 miles. 
 
 Early in summer, the Coochatope, Estrendoso, Jaroso, Eio cle 
 la Laguna, and the ISTawaquasitch, all except the first, rising in 
 the Sierra de la Plata, and crossing the road at right angles, are 
 so swollen, as to be impassable for wagons without much trouble ; 
 bridges, for which abundant timber grows on their banks, are 
 required over them. 
 
 Timber, grass, and water are abundant all through this range ; 
 about twenty miles from Grand Eiver, the country becomes 
 level, and is destitute of pasturage, except near the Eiver Un- 
 compagre, down which the road goes until reaching Grand Eiver. 
 
 SECTION VII. 
 From Grand River to Green River, 154 miles. 
 
 All level country, and many good camping grounds at easy 
 distances. Timber near the streams. 
 
RESUME. 117 
 
 Grand Eiver is fordable from August till April; at other 
 times it is swollen by melting snows. The same may" be said 
 of the Avonkarea, though in some years its waters do not fall 
 sufficiently to be fordable. I was told that Green River is 
 never fordable, but doubt the correctness of this information, 
 and believe that in most years, from August to early in the 
 spring, animals can wade across it. But for wagons, these three 
 streams should have ferry boats. 
 
 SECTION VIII. 
 
 From Green River to Mormon Settlements near Las Vegas de Santa 
 Clara, Utah Territory, 242 miles. 
 
 Eighty-six miles are across barren plains, occasionally seamed 
 with dry watercourses. Good camping places are found at 
 easy distances, with grass, water, and wood. 
 
 For one hundred and fifty-six miles the trail leads through 
 successive ranges of the Wahsatch Mountains. All these ranges 
 are separated by broad valleys, watered by abundant streams, 
 and smaller ones give access to and unite the larger ones. 
 
 Throughout these mountains grass, water, and timber are 
 abundant ; game is scanty. 
 
 r 
 
 % SECTION IX. 
 
 From Settlements near Las Vegas de Santa Clara to Mohaveh 
 River, 374 miles. 
 
 This section is over a part of or near the Great Salt Lake 
 Basin; and in it are twojornadas (long distance between waters); 
 the first is 45, the second 55 miles in length. 
 
 At the Mormon settlements, beef, flour, and cornmeal can be 
 purchased at reasonable rates. Groceries are scarce and dear. 
 
 With the exception of the jornadas, camping grounds are 
 found along this route at short distances, on the Vegas de Santa 
 Clara, Eio Santa Clara, Eio de la Virgen, Muddy Creek, Vegas 
 del Gaetan, Ojo de Archilete, and Amargosa Creek. 
 
 In some of these places the grass is salt and wiry, and affords 
 little nourishment. Mesquit bushes, which grow on all the 
 
118 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 waters of the desert, bear a nutritious bean on which animals 
 feed greedily. 
 
 The only game is sage rabbits. 
 
 SECTION x. 
 From Afohaveh River to Los Angeles, 137 miles. 
 
 The road now follows up the Mohaveh, and near it is good 
 pasturage, and timber. Water is first found in holes ; higher 
 up there is running water. 
 
 After leaving the river, the road crosses an elevated plain 
 covered with small trees and good bunch grass, but no water is 
 found until arriving on the head waters of the Santa Anna, a 
 creek flowing into the Pacific, a distance of about 25 miles. A 
 rough wagon-road leads down this creek, through the Cajon 
 Pass into the valley of San Bernardino, from which a broad, 
 well-beaten track leads to Los Angeles. 
 
RESUME. 
 
 119 
 
 ITINERARY OF THE CENTRAL ROUTE. 
 From Westport, Missouri, to Los Angeles, California. 
 
 DATE. 
 
 CAMPS. 
 
 IST- 
 NCE. 
 
 ISTANCE 
 BOM W. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 May 15 
 
 nd. Creek 
 
 
 12 
 
 ottonwoods, willows, good grass. 
 
 " 16 
 
 ull Creek 
 
 23 
 
 35 
 
 ome timber ; good grass and water. 
 
 " 16 
 
 arfish Creek 
 
 22 
 
 57 
 
 earest wood, half mile ; water and 
 
 
 
 
 
 grass. 
 
 " 17 
 
 110" 
 
 23 
 
 80 
 
 lunning stream; timber, good grass. 
 
 ' 17 
 
 )ragoon Creek 
 
 12 
 
 92 
 
 " fine timber and grass. 
 
 18 
 
 tream 
 
 10 
 
 102 
 
 ood water ; timber and grass. 
 
 ' 18 
 
 it 
 
 4 
 
 106 
 
 
 
 ' 18 
 
 follow 
 
 6 
 
 112 
 
 Water in holes ; grass. 
 
 ' 18 
 
 COUNCIL GROVE 
 
 10 
 
 122 
 
 ettlement ; abundant timber ; 
 
 
 
 
 
 grass ; water. 
 
 19 
 
 I olio w 
 
 17 
 
 139 
 
 Water ; grass and timber abundant. 
 
 " 10 
 
 jost Spring 
 
 15 
 
 154 
 
 Good water, not abundant; grass; 
 
 
 
 
 
 no wood. * 
 
 " 20 
 
 ]ottonwood Creek 
 
 16 
 
 170 
 
 jarge timber ; running water ; good 
 
 
 
 
 
 pasturage. 
 
 20 
 
 'urkey Creek 
 
 19 
 
 189 
 
 'lenty of water and grass ; no wood. 
 
 " 21 
 
 Pool 
 
 12 
 
 201 
 
 Grass and water : small bushes. 
 
 " 21 
 
 jittle Arkansas 
 
 18 
 
 219 
 
 Good timber; grass and water. 
 
 " 21 
 
 Owl Creek 
 
 10 
 
 229 
 
 timber and grass; no water, ex 
 
 
 
 
 
 cept after rains. 
 
 22 
 
 3reat Bend of Ark. 
 
 35 
 
 264 
 
 Wood ; grass and water. 
 
 22 
 
 Walnut Creek 
 
 7 
 
 271 
 
 
 
 23 
 
 Pawnee Fork 
 
 31 
 
 302 
 
 Well wooded ; grass and water. 
 
 <*< 23 
 
 'ond 
 
 9 
 
 311 
 
 Good pasturage; water; no wood; 
 
 
 
 
 
 plenty "buffalo chips." 
 
 " 24 
 
 it 
 
 25 
 
 336 
 
 iVater; grass. 
 
 " 24 
 
 Arkansas River 
 
 20 
 
 356 
 
 Water ; grass ; small bushes. 
 
 2- r 
 
 ?ORT ATKINSON 
 
 5 
 
 361 
 
 << 
 
 " 26 
 
 1st Crossing of S 
 
 10 
 
 371 
 
 
 
 
 F6 trail 
 
 
 
 
 " 26 
 
 2d " " 
 
 5 
 
 376 
 
 < 
 
 " 26 
 
 Camp on Ark. 
 
 20 
 
 396 
 
 t << 
 
 " 27 
 
 " 
 
 20 
 
 416 
 
 " coarse grass ; no wood. 
 
 " 28 
 
 [sland on Ark. 
 
 19 
 
 435 
 
 " " little wood. 
 
 " 28 
 
 Chouteau's Island 
 
 12 
 
 447 
 
 " coarse rank grass; drift 
 
 
 
 
 
 wood. 
 
 " 2t 
 
 Slough of Ark. 
 
 28 
 
 475 
 
 " wiry grass; no wood. 
 
 " 2 
 
 Arkansas River 
 
 8 
 
 483 
 
 <> 
 
 " 3 
 
 Big Timbers 
 
 20 
 
 503 
 
 " coarse grass ; large timber. 
 
 " 3 
 
 Arkansas River 
 
 12 
 
 515 
 
 Good water ; abundant bottom 
 
 
 
 
 
 grass ; timber. 
 
 ". 3 
 
 Lower Dry Creek 
 
 25 
 
 540 
 
 Scanty dry grass ; water in pools, 
 
 
 
 
 
 warm; wood. 
 
 " 3 
 
 BENT'S FORT 
 
 7 
 
 547 
 
 Bottom grass; river Arkansas; wood. 
 
 " 3 
 
 Upper Dry Creek 
 
 7 
 
 554 
 
 i. a 
 
 " 3 
 
 Pond 
 
 6 
 
 560 
 
 Dry bunch grass ; water ; wood near 
 
 
 
 
 
 river. 
 
120 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 ITINERARY OF THE CENTRAL ROUTE CONTINUED. 
 
 DATE. 
 
 CAMPS. 
 
 DIST 
 ANCE. 
 
 DISTANCE 
 FROM W. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 June 1 
 
 Below mouth of 
 
 15 
 
 575 
 
 Bottom grass ; water ; wood. 
 
 
 Timpas 
 
 
 
 
 " 1 
 
 Timpas Creek 
 
 6 
 
 580 
 
 Water in holes, slightly brackish ; 
 
 
 
 
 
 good grass ; wood. 
 
 " 2 
 
 HUERFANO RIVER 
 
 18 
 
 598 
 
 Water ; rich grass ; timber. 
 
 " 2 
 
 " 
 
 10 
 
 608 
 
 
 
 " 3 
 
 Pool 
 
 24 
 
 632 
 
 Water holes ; grass ; bushes. 
 
 " 3 
 
 Huerfano River 
 
 10 
 
 642 
 
 Water ; luxuriant grass ; timber. 
 
 4 
 
 Rock on Cuchada in 
 
 20 
 
 662 
 
 K a 
 
 
 Sangre de Cristo 
 
 
 
 
 " 4 
 
 SUMMIT OF SANGRE 
 
 6 
 
 668 
 
 Water in springs ; luxuriant grass ; 
 
 
 DE CRISTO 
 
 
 
 large pines. 
 
 " 5 
 
 FORT MASSACHU 
 
 25 
 
 693 
 
 Excellent water; abundant good 
 
 
 SETTS 
 
 
 
 pasturage ; timber. 
 
 " 15 
 
 Slough on Rio del 
 
 25 
 
 718 
 
 Stagnant water; coarse grass; 
 
 
 Norte 
 
 
 
 bushes 
 
 " 16 
 
 Rio del Norte 
 
 18 
 
 736 
 
 Good water; abundant bottom 
 
 
 
 
 
 grass; trees. 
 
 " 17 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 746 
 
 Good water; good grass; trees. 
 
 " 17 
 
 Rio de la Garita 
 
 14 
 
 760 
 
 " " willows. 
 
 " 17 
 
 Spring 
 
 10 
 
 770 
 
 " " bushes. 
 
 " 17 
 
 Rincon del Sahwatch 
 
 16 
 
 786 
 
 " " trees. 
 
 " 18 
 
 Sahwatch Valley 
 
 16 
 
 802 
 
 " " timber. 
 
 " 18 
 
 COOCHATOPE GATE 
 
 6 
 
 808 
 
 " " wood. 
 
 19 
 
 Summit of Pass 
 
 9 
 
 817 
 
 " " large timber. 
 
 " 19 
 
 Coochatope Creek 
 
 15 
 
 832 
 
 " " trees. 
 
 19 
 
 Spring 
 
 10 
 
 842 
 
 
 
 " 20 
 
 Rivulet 
 
 22 
 
 864 
 
 
 
 " 20 
 
 Rio Jaroso (Willow 
 
 5 
 
 869 
 
 
 
 
 Creek) 
 
 
 
 
 " 20 
 
 Spring 
 
 7 
 
 876 
 
 
 
 " 21 
 
 Rio de la Laguna 
 
 5 
 
 881 
 
 " " large timber. 
 
 
 (Lake Creek) 
 
 
 
 
 " 21 
 
 Spring 
 
 4 
 
 885 
 
 a 
 
 " 22 
 
 Rio Nawaquasitch 
 
 18 
 
 903 
 
 U fl (t 
 
 
 (Sheep- tail Creek) 
 
 
 
 
 " 22 
 
 Creek 
 
 20 
 
 923 
 
 Water in holes; scanty grass; 
 
 
 
 
 
 small trees. 
 
 23 
 
 Rio Uncompagre 
 
 16 
 
 939 
 
 Water; coarse grass; trees. 
 
 " 23 
 
 Mouth of the Un 
 
 12 
 
 951 
 
 
 
 
 compagre 
 
 
 
 
 July 18 
 
 Cerenoquinti Creek 
 
 25 
 
 976 
 
 " good grass ; wood. 
 
 " 19 
 
 River Avonkaria 
 
 12 
 
 988 
 
 Coarse grass; timber. 
 
 " 21 
 
 Camp 1'Amoureux, 
 
 '16 
 
 1004 
 
 Abundant grass; timber; river 
 
 
 on Grand River 
 
 
 
 water. 
 
 " 24 
 
 Rio Salad o, Grand 
 
 10 
 
 1014 
 
 t( U f( 
 
 
 River 
 
 
 
 
 " 24 
 
 Grand River 
 
 20 
 
 1034 
 
 (I 
 
 " 23 
 
 it 
 
 15 
 
 1049 
 
 tt It 
 
 " 23 
 
 Plain betw'n Grand 
 
 21 
 
 1070 
 
 Scanty grass ; no wood ; no water. 
 
 
 and Green Rivers 
 
 
 
 
 " 24 
 
 Green River, left 
 
 35 
 
 1105 
 
 Abundant grass ; wood ; river water. 
 
 
 shore 
 
 
 
 
 " 25 
 
 Green River, right 
 
 1 
 
 1106 
 
 < 
 
 
 shore 
 
 
 
 
RESUME. 121 
 
 ITINERARY OF THE CENTRAL ROUTE CONTINUED. 
 
 DATE. 
 
 CAMPS. 
 
 DIST 
 ANCE. 
 
 DISTANCE 
 FROM W. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 July 26 
 
 Green River Spring 
 
 18 
 
 1124 
 
 Some good grass; small spring; 
 
 
 
 
 
 good timber. 
 
 97 
 
 San Rafael Creek 
 
 38 
 
 1162 
 
 Good pasturage ; small trees ; good 
 
 
 
 
 
 water. 
 
 ' 28 
 
 Brook 
 
 10 
 
 1172 
 
 < 
 
 ' 28 llio del Moro 
 
 10 
 
 1182 
 
 < it 
 
 28 
 
 Creek in Wahsatch 
 
 10 
 
 1192 
 
 a < 
 
 
 Mountains 
 
 
 
 
 < 29 
 
 Llio Salado 
 
 15 
 
 1207 
 
 < 
 
 ' 29 
 
 " 
 
 15 
 
 1222 
 
 Coarse grass; ' " 
 
 " 30 
 
 Sevier (Nicollet) 
 
 21 
 
 1243 
 
 " ' , " 
 
 
 River 
 
 
 
 
 " 30 
 
 Meadows 
 
 4 
 
 1247 
 
 Luxuriant grass ; bushes ; good 
 
 
 
 
 
 water. 
 
 " 30 
 
 Sevier River 
 
 12 
 
 1259 
 
 Good grass ; small trees ; good water. 
 
 " 31 
 
 M 
 
 10 
 
 1269 
 
 Excellent grass ; " " 
 
 " 31 
 
 Rivulet, affluent to 
 
 8 
 
 1277 
 
 " large trees; " 
 
 
 Sevier 
 
 
 
 
 Aug. 1 
 
 Junction of Sevier 
 
 20 
 
 1297 
 
 " small trees; " 
 
 
 and San Pasqual 
 
 
 
 
 
 Rivers 
 
 
 
 
 " 1 
 
 Summit of last range 
 
 16 
 
 1313 
 
 Excellent grass ; bushes ; no water 
 
 
 of Sahwatch Mts. 
 
 
 
 near. 
 
 " 2 
 
 PAEAGOONA (Mor 
 
 28 
 
 1341 
 
 Excellent grass ; no wood near ex 
 
 
 mon settlement) 
 
 
 
 cept bushes ; good water. 
 
 " 2 
 
 PARAWAN " 
 
 4 
 
 1345 
 
 it K 
 
 " 3 
 
 CEDAR CITY, 1st, 
 
 18 
 
 1363 
 
 Excellent grass ; large timber ; good 
 
 
 Vega de Santa Clara 
 
 
 
 water. 
 
 " 4 
 
 2d, Vega de Santa 
 
 38 
 
 1401 
 
 Excellent grass ; small trees ; wa 
 
 
 Clara 
 
 
 
 ter in holes. 
 
 " 5 
 
 3d, " " 
 
 12 
 
 1413 
 
 Excellent grass ; small trees ; run 
 
 
 
 
 
 ning water. 
 
 5 
 
 Santa Clara Creek 
 
 16 
 
 1429 
 
 Good grass; large trees; running 
 
 
 
 
 
 water. 
 
 " 6 
 
 a 
 
 10 
 
 1439 
 
 Grass and clover; large trees; run 
 
 
 
 
 
 ning water. 
 
 " 7 
 
 Spring 
 
 14 
 
 1453 
 
 Grass ; small trees ; good water. 
 
 " 7 
 
 llio de la Virgen 
 
 21 
 
 1474 
 
 Salt grass; trees; warm, turbid 
 
 
 
 
 
 water. 
 
 " 8 
 
 M 
 
 14 
 
 1488 
 
 Salt grass; mesquit beans; trees; 
 
 
 
 
 
 turbid water. 
 
 " 8 
 
 
 
 15 
 
 1503 
 
 ft 1C < 
 
 " 9 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 1513 
 
 <c 
 
 " 9 
 
 Rio Atascoso (Mud 
 
 8 
 
 1521 
 
 
 
 
 dy Creek) 
 
 
 
 
 " 11 
 
 Ojo del Gaetan 
 
 45 
 
 1566 
 
 Good pasturage; bushes; cool, 
 
 
 (Jornada) 
 
 
 
 running water. 
 
 " 12 
 
 Vega Quintana 
 
 17 
 
 1583 
 
 Good pasturage; trees; spring. 
 
 " 13 
 
 Agua Escarbada 
 
 25 
 
 1608 
 
 Grass and mesquit beans; small 
 
 
 
 
 
 trees ; water to be dug for. 
 
 14 
 
 Ojo de Archilete 
 
 22 
 
 1630 
 
 Good pasturage; bushes; cool 
 
 
 
 
 
 water. 
 
 " 15 
 
 Amargosa 
 
 5 
 
 1635 
 
 Salt grass ; mesquit beans ; water 
 
 
 
 
 
 in pools, bad: small spring, 
 
 
 
 
 
 brackish water, under rock. 
 
122 CENTRAL ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 ITINERARY OF THE CENTRAL ROUTE CONTINUED. 
 
 DATE. 
 
 CAMP3. 
 
 DIST 
 ANCE. 
 
 DISTANCE 
 FROM W. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Aug. 16 
 
 Agua del Tio Meso 
 
 50 
 
 1685 
 
 Scanty salt grass; small bushes; 
 
 
 (Jornada) 
 
 
 
 bad, scanty water. 
 
 " 17 
 
 Monarch River 
 
 30 
 
 1715 
 
 Good grass ; abundant wood ; water 
 
 
 
 
 
 in holes. 
 
 " 18 
 
 < 
 
 8 
 
 1723 
 
 Good grass; large trees; water in 
 
 
 
 
 
 holes. 
 
 ' 19 
 
 
 
 19 
 
 1742 
 
 (t tt a 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 20 
 
 1762 
 
 " " running 
 
 
 
 
 
 water. 
 
 20 
 
 Plain 
 
 20 
 
 1782 
 
 Dry bunch grass ; cedars; no water. 
 
 ' 21 
 
 Santa Anna Creek 
 
 8 
 
 1790 
 
 Good grass ; timber ; running water. 
 
 < 21 
 
 Sycamore Camp 
 
 12 
 
 1802 
 
 Fine grass; large timber; springs. 
 
 < 21 
 
 Cocomongo Ranch 
 
 15 
 
 1817 
 
 " " running 
 
 
 
 
 
 water. 
 
 22 
 
 Los ANGELES 
 
 35 
 
 1852 
 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 LETTER FROM MR. CHARLES "W. 
 
 Published in the National Intelligencer (Washington}, Nov. 7, 1853. 
 
 FORT MASSACHUSETTS (N. M.), Aug. 28, 1853. 
 
 HON. T. H. BENTON : 
 
 DEAR SIR: Knowing that you feel interested in the middle 
 route for the great Pacific Railroad, and believing that any in 
 formation in regard to it would be acceptable, no matter how 
 humble the source from which it comes, I have determined to 
 state what I know about it. This information is from travelling 
 the route just behind Captain Gunnison. I left Virginia the 
 first of April, went to Missouri and Illinois to purchase sheep 
 for the California market. After purchasing, I started to take 
 them by Salt Lake, the Humboldt River, &c., feeling assured that 
 I would have to winter at Salt Lake. I had gotten the sheep as 
 far as St. Joseph's, (Mo.) Having some business in St. Louis, I 
 met with Captain Gunnison, and learned from him that there 
 was a better route by way of Utah Lake, and that he was going 
 to open it, and that, from what he knew about it, it would be 
 much better for me to take it. After thinking a good deal 
 over it, I determined to take it, as there was a very large 
 number of stock on the old route, and a good prospect of get 
 ting to California this season. I read your address with a 
 great deal of interest; and, feeling assured these statements 
 about the route could be relied on, I left Missouri at Westport, 
 on the 18th of June, with a large number of sheep and some 
 cows Mr. Crockett, of Virginia, a partner with me. At 
 Westport, I met with the two Mr. Ross's, of Iowa, with their 
 families, going the old route ; they also determined to accom 
 pany me the new route. After travelling a few days, I fell in 
 with the two Mr. Burwells, of Franklin City, Virginia, with a 
 
124 APPENDIX. 
 
 large number of cattle, who also were persuaded to join me. 
 We travelled the Santa Fe road twenty-five miles above Fort 
 Atkinson, keeping on the well-beaten track to thirty miles 
 above Bent's Old Fort, and crossed the Arkansas Eiver at the 
 mouth of Apispah Creek, crossed over to the Huerfano, up that 
 stream about twenty miles, and crossed the Sierra Blanca 
 Mountains through Captain Gunnison's Pass, about twelve miles 
 south of Leroux's Pass to this fort. The distance given by 
 Captain Gunnison is 693 miles from Westport, Missouri. 
 
 I have travelled over the mountains of Virginia, Penn 
 sylvania, and Tennessee, over several of the passes of the 
 Sierra Nevada in California, and I have never seen a better or 
 more easy Pass for carriages and wagons than the one found 
 by Captain Gunnison, through the Sierra Blanca [Sangre de 
 Cristo] just opposite to Fort Massachusetts, and distant from it 
 fifteen miles. I travelled the old route to California in 1849, 
 and can speak of the two routes from actual experience, having 
 gone over both with wagons. I look upon this route as far 
 superior, and feel confident that as soon as it is known it will and 
 must be the great thoroughfare from the Atlantic to the Pacific. 
 On this route, there is an abundance of grass and water, so 
 much that stock will travel and keep fat ; the large majority of 
 our sheep are as fat as any mutton in the Philadelphia or Bal 
 timore market, and a very large. number of Mr. Burwell's 
 cattle are fine beef; and I have never seen any stock, after 
 having travelled so far, look half as well. Both of the Mr. 
 Ross's have carriages, and as yet nothing has in the least given 
 way. I can say without fear of contradiction that this is one 
 of the finest natural roads in the world, combining everything 
 necessary to sustain stock ; and I am confident that, if its advan 
 tages are fully made known to Congress, it will be adopted 
 for the great Pacific Railroad. On this line, almost the entire 
 route can be settled ; as all the land from Missouri to Bent's 
 Fort is rich and very fertile, equal to the best lands of Missouri 
 and Illinois, and no land can beat the Sierra Blanca [Sangre de 
 Cristo ?] for grass ; even to the very summit it stands as thick 
 as the best meadows ; many acres would mow at least four tons 
 per acre. Then comes the large and beautiful valley of San Luis, 
 said to be one of the most fertile in New Mexico ; indeed, fine 
 land is upon the whole route, and the climate such that stock 
 
APPENDIX. 125 
 
 can live all winter upon the grass. I will here state the route 
 I think best for emigrants to travel : Leave Westport, Missouri, 
 take the road to Uniontown, then to Fort Centre, then take 
 Captain Gunnison's trail, which leads from the Kansas to the 
 Arkansas, near the mouth of Walnut Creek, up the Arkansas 
 above Bent's Old Fort, thirty-two miles; then up the Huerfano, 
 through Captain Gunnison's Pass to Fort Massachusetts ; then 
 to Little Salt Lake, Walker's Pass, Sierra Nevada ; then down 
 the valley of the San Joaquin to Stockton or San Francisco. 
 There are settlements at different points all along this route, 
 where emigrants can get supplies, none farther apart than two 
 hundred miles. After leaving Missouri, you pass first Council 
 Grove, next the Fort on Walnut Creek, next Green. Horn, next 
 Fort Massachusetts, Little Salt Lake, Santa Clara, Vegas de 
 Santa Clara ; at each of these supplies can be had. I feel con 
 fident, when Captain Gunnison makes out his report, that this 
 route will be adopted. The pass through the Sierra Blanca 
 [Sangre de Cristo ?] is so low and gradual that a railroad can be 
 made over it, and the grade will not exceed fifty feet to the 
 mile. Captain Gunnison is doing his whole duty, and well 
 deserves the thanks of the whole country, for the very well 
 laid out road through this almost unexplored country. I will 
 write you again after getting through to California, and describe 
 the rest of the way. 
 
 Yours respectfully, ^fSW 
 
 CHARLES W. McCLANAHAN. 
 
 EXTRACT OF A LETTER FROM MR. E. S. WOOTTON, 
 Published in the Missouri Democrat. 
 DON FERNANDEZ DE TAGS, NEW MEXICO, October 22, 1853. 
 
 EDITOR MISSOURI DEMOCRAT: 
 
 Having passed several years in the mountains and in this 
 country^ and having some knowledge of the same, I propose 
 giving, through your valuable columns, to the emigrants, some 
 information as regards the Central Eoute to California. During 
 the last year, I have taken a drove of sheep from this place 
 
126 APPENDIX. '. 
 
 to California, over the route Colonel Fremont intended to Lave 
 gone in the winter of '48, '49, at ,the time of his disaster. I 
 made the trip through to California in ninety days, arriving 
 there with my sheep in good order, having passed through 
 some of the finest country I ever saw, had good camps, and 
 plenty of wood, water, and grass every night during the whole 
 trip. This route is at least 450 miles nearer than the route by 
 Fort Laramie and South Pass. I recommend to emigrants by 
 all means to take this route in preference to any other. Start 
 from Kansas or any town on the western frontier of Missouri, 
 come up the north side of the Arkansas River to the mouth of 
 the Huerfano River, about forty-five miles above Bent's Fort, 
 up the Huerfano River to Roubideau's Pass, or the Pass El 
 Sangre de Cristo, either of them practicable for wagons, the 
 ascent and descent being narrow valleys made by small mount 
 ain streams, and so gradual as to offer no obstruction to wagons. 
 Both these passes lead into the valley of San Luis, one of the 
 finest valleys in the world ; follow up the valley to the Coocha- 
 tope Pass, in the Grand River Mountain; down the Coocha- 
 tope River, to the valleys of Grand and Green Rivers, until you 
 strike the Great Spanish trail ; then follow the trail to the Little 
 Salt Lake and to the St. Clara Springs ; at both of these places 
 there are flourishing towns built by the Mormons, where emi 
 grants can procure such things as they want at fair prices. I 
 was offered flour at $2 50 per 100 pounds, and groceries at faiv 
 prices. From St. Clara Springs to San Francisco, by Walker's 
 Pass, there is a good wagon-road, and settlements all the way. 
 Captain Gunnison with his party left the Pass El Sangre de 
 Cristo about the 16th August, and made the journey through 
 to Green River in twenty-four days, with twenty wagons. A 
 few days behind Captain Gunnison was, a party of emigrants, 
 who had made up their minds to pass the winter at Salt Lake, 
 in consequence of being so late in the season ; after being in 
 formed of this route, they determined to try the road ; the party 
 was conducted by Captain McClanahan, of .Virginia ; with the 
 party was Colonel Ross and brother, from Iowa, with their 
 families, with several other gentlemen. They had 2,000 sheep, 
 and from 3 to 400 head of cattle. Mr. Leroux, the guide' of 
 Captain Gunnison, met the emigrants on his return to this place 
 on Grand River, and reports that they were very much pleased 
 
APPENDIX. 127 
 
 with the route, their stock being in excellent condition. Cap 
 tain McClanahan, who has been several times to California with 
 stock by the South Pass route, says there is no comparison be 
 tween the routes ; that he would sooner pass five times from 
 the Arkansas to Grand River, than pass through the Black Hills 
 on the Laramie route once. There is now being commenced 
 a settlement on the Arkansas Eiver at the mouth of the Huerfano, 
 at which place emigrants can also procure such necessaries as 
 they may be in want of; also information as to the route, or 
 guides if they wish. There is also a good ferry at the mouth of 
 the Huerfano, and ferries will also be established during the 
 coming summer on Grand and Green Rivers. There is also 
 another great advantage that this route has over a more 
 northern one, as* emigrants can leave Missouri as late as the 1st 
 August, and be in no danger of being stopped by snow. After 
 reaching the Great Spanish trail in the valley of Green River, 
 from thence to California there is never any snow, and the 
 months of October and November are more pleasant to travel- 
 lers, and better for stock, than the summer months. 
 
 * * ***** 
 
 I am, sir, respectfully, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 R. S. WOOTTON. 
 
128 APPENDIX. 
 
 CAMELS, AS A SUBSTITUTE FOR HORSES, MULES, ETC. 
 
 During our journey across the continent, I took particular 
 note of the country, with reference to its adaptation to the use 
 of camels and dromedaries, and to ascertain whether these ani 
 mals might be introduced with advantage on our extensive 
 plains. 
 
 Having, by a residence of many years in Asia and Africa, 
 become well acquainted with their qualities and powers of 
 endurance, I am now convinced that they would be of inesti 
 mable value in traversing the dry and barren regions between 
 the Colorado and the Sierra Nevada ; and I am glad to see that 
 the Secretary at War has, in his late report to Congress, asked 
 for an appropriation for the purpose of importing a certain 
 number, in order to test their usefulness. 
 
 I will now state a few facts which will show the valuable 
 qualities that these animals possess, the manner in which they 
 may be rendered serviceable, and the facility with which they 
 might be domesticated on our continent. 
 
 In enumerating the qualities which render the camel and 
 dromedary so well suited to our western waters, I will quote 
 from several travellers, whose statements will corroborate my 
 own: 
 
 1. Their power to endure hunger and thirst. Ta vernier, the 
 great Eastern traveller, states that his camels, in going from 
 Aleppo to Ispahan, by the Great Desert, went nine days with 
 out drinking. 
 
 The French missionary, Hue, who travelled in Tartary, Thi 
 bet, &c. in the years 1844, '45, '46, gives some interesting in 
 formation in relation to this animal. Speaking of the Desert 
 of Ortos, on the northern border of China, he says : " Every 
 where the waters are brackish, the soil arid, and covered with 
 saline efflorescences. This sterility is very injurious to cattle; 
 the camel, however, whose robust and hardy nature adapts 
 
APPENDIX. 129 
 
 itself to the most barren regions, is a substitute with the Tar 
 tars for all other animals. The camel, which they with truth 
 style ' the treasure of the desert,' can abstain from food and 
 drink for fifteen days, and sometimes for a month. However 
 poor the country, he always finds sufficient food to satisfy his 
 hunger. In the most sterile plains, the herbs which other ani 
 mals will not touch, and even bushes and dry wood, will serve 
 him for food." In Barbary, they can remain five days without 
 drinking during the summer when the heat is intolerable, and 
 there is little or no herbage ; but when there is grass, and par 
 ticularly in spring, they require no water for three weeks. 
 
 2. Their strength, speed, and endurance. No animal can com 
 pete with the camel for strength and endurance. The African 
 traveller, Shaw, relates that on his journey to Mount Sinai, 
 which was over a very hot and stony region, though each of 
 his camels carried seven quintals (784 pounds), he travelled ten, 
 and sometimes fifteen hours a day, at the rate of three miles an 
 hour. 
 
 Another traveller (F. A. Neale, Eight Years in Syria} states : 
 " The Turcoman camel, a much finer animal than the Syrian, 
 will carry, equally poised, two bales, weighing together half a 
 ton." 
 
 Hue remarks : " Although he costs so little to nourish, the 
 camel can be properly appreciated in those countries only 
 where he is in constant use. His ordinary load is from seven 
 to eight hundred pounds, and with this burden he can travel 
 about ten leagues a day." 
 
 In Barbary, they carry from 550 to 600 pounds, and travel 
 
 forty miles a day. Bancroft Library 
 
 3. The longevity of the camel. The naturalist, Buffon, states 
 that camels live from forty to fifty years. In Tunis, where I 
 had daily opportunities of seeing them, they live fully fifty 
 years. Mr. Hue says that they retain their vigor for many 
 years, and if they are allowed a short period of rest in the 
 spring, to pasture, they are of good service for fifty years. 
 
 The camel, therefore, possesses more useful qualities than 
 any other animal subjected to the use of man. His strength is 
 such that he can carry more than three mule loads, though he 
 requires as little nourishment as the ass. 
 10 
 
loO APPENDIX. 
 
 In Asia and Africa, the journeys of the caravans are often 
 from two thousand to three thousand miles in length, during 
 which they average from thirty to thirty-five miles a day. 
 
 They are remarkably docile and obedient to their masters ; 
 lie down to be loaded and unloaded ; at night sleep crouched in 
 a circle around the encampment. They rarely stray away, nor 
 are they, as mules, liable to be frightened ; it would be diffi 
 cult nay, impossible to stampede a caravan of camels. When 
 turned out to pasture, they eat in an hour as much as serves 
 them to ruminate the whole night, and to nourish them during 
 twenty-four hours. 
 
 The female camel furnishes excellent milk longer than the 
 cow, upon which the Arabs often subsist during their long 
 journeys. Their hair, which is renewed annually, is more in 
 request than the finest wool; the fleece weighs about ten 
 pounds. 
 
 The dromedary possesses the same qualities as the camel, as 
 regards abstemiousness, docility, &c., to which he adds much 
 greater speed and endurance. 
 
 The dromedary is a much taller and finer-shaped animal than 
 the camel. The Arabs assert that he can travel as far in one 
 day as one of their best horses can in four. They are so hardy 
 that they travel in the desert for eight or ten days at the rate 
 of from one hundred and twenty-five to one hundred and fifty 
 miles per day, during which time they require very little food 
 or water. I saw a party of Arabs, mounted on dromedaries, 
 arrive in Tunis in four days from Tripoli, a distance of six 
 hundred miles. 
 
 In these journeys they do not bear heavy loads, but carry a 
 man, with his arms and provisions, which are equivalent to 
 about two hundred and fifty pounds. 
 
 General Yusuf, of the French army, travelled from Blidah, a 
 town in the interior of Algeria, to the city of Algiers, in a car 
 riage drawn by dromedaries. Though these animals had a few 
 days before made a journey from Medeah to Boghar, a distance 
 of one hundred and eighty miles, in twenty-four hours, the 
 General drove them at the rate of ten miles the hour. 
 
 Hue remarks: " Those that are employed to carry dispatches 
 are made to travel eighty leagues in a day ; but they only carry 
 a rider." 
 
APPENDIX. 131 
 
 The same author observes : " When their fur is long, camels 
 can endure the most severe frosts. Naturalists have stated that 
 camels could not live in cold climates; they probably had 
 reference to those of Arabia." 
 
 In Turkey in Europe, where the winters are very severe, 
 camels are in common use at all seasons. They are also used 
 in winter as well as summer, on the elevated steppes of Tartary 
 as far north as 50. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 (ii.) 
 
 ROUTE FROM LAS VEGAS DE SANTA CLARA TO WALKER'S 
 PASS, BY THE WAY OF OWEN'S RIVER AND OWEN'S LAKE. 
 
 IT is seen by the Journal that it was the wish of Col. Benton 
 that we should have gone nearly due west from Santa Clara 
 Meadows to Owen's River, and also the reason why we followed 
 the old Spanish trail by the Mohaveh, and thence to Los 
 Angeles. His reason was, that the Spanish trail went too far 
 to the south, and over the desert, while it was believed there 
 would be a more direct way, and over a better country, by 
 keeping west to Owen's River, at the eastern base of the Sierra 
 Nevada. This was the belief of Col. Fremont, who had ex 
 amined Owen's Eiver and Lake, and laid them down in his 
 map of 1848, and also sketched a mountain running east and 
 west, about latitude 38, along the southern base of which he 
 judged (from the nature of mountains and valleys in that region) 
 there must be a belt of fertile land, with wood, water, and grass, 
 making a valley east and west ; which was the course that the 
 route for the road required. His views have been subsequently 
 verified, and as early as 1849-50, by a party of emigrants } 
 headed by the Eev. J. W. BRIER, who has published an ac 
 count of it in the Christian Advocate, a religious paper in San 
 Francisco. 
 
 REVEREND MR. BRIER'S STATEMENT. 
 
 "In September, of 1849, we left Salt Lake, in Hunt's large 
 wagon train, for Los Angeles. We travelled nearly south to a 
 point on the old Spanish trail, called 'The Divide,' about 75 
 11 
 
134 APPENDIX. 
 
 miles southwest of Little Salt Lake.* Near this point we were 
 overtaken by some Mormons, who brought with them a way 
 bill of a new and better route from the Divide to the southern 
 mines, via Owen's Lake, Walker's Pass, and Tulare Valley. 
 This way-bill was given by a hunter, named Ward, who had 
 assumed the habits and intermarried with the Utahs, and was 
 one of Walker's band. The way-bill stated that we should find 
 a succession of fertile valleys, and plenty of grass and water, in 
 a direct line to Owen's Lake and Walker's Pass. 
 
 " This way-bill, and other causes, induced that part of the 
 company to which I belonged to take the cut-off. Leaving the 
 Spanish trail, we travelled west 25 miles, through an opening 
 in the mountains, having an excellent and almost level road. 
 We then turned south, through a long, narrow valley, which 
 brought us up on some table-lands, near the head waters of the 
 Santa Clara. At this point we should have turned to the west, 
 and would thereby have reached the first Muddy by a more 
 direct line and by a much better road. But, bearing off too far 
 south, a few hours brought us to the Santa Clara, in the vicinity 
 of deep and impassable canons. After three days of fruitless 
 explorations in a southerly course, most of the company re 
 turned to the Spanish trail. But the company to which I was 
 attached, discovering an open country to the west, and, believ 
 ing we had gone too far south, resolved on a western course. 
 Twenty miles brought us to the first Muddy. In travelling 
 this twenty miles, we found no serious obstacles, excepting a 
 cedar forest, through which we cut a road. By bearing to the 
 south, in this instance, we lost about ten miles and found a 
 rougher road. Still, we found nothing difficult or serious even 
 by this route. This region abounds in spruce and cedar. 
 
 "From the first to the second Muddy is about 50 miles. The 
 country over which we passed was a succession of valleys, sepa 
 rated by low dividing ridges. About 10 miles north, the 
 country seemed a continuous plain nearly the entire distance. 
 This part of the road can boast of nothing but a good solid 
 foundation for a road, being rather sterile. From the second 
 
 * This is the third Vegas de Santa Clara, in which the Rio de Santa Clara 
 running south, and a stream discharging into Sevier or Nicollet Lake, bead. H. 
 
APPENDIX. 135 
 
 Muddy, we took a southwest direction, through a valley 60 
 miles in length, some parts of which were very fertile, having 
 an extraordinary growth of bunch grass. On the north side of 
 the valley there is a high mountain range nearly 100 miles 
 long; in this mountain we discovered creeks large enough to 
 turn a mill. Leaving this valley, we descended by a long slope 
 into what seemed to be a lower region of country and entirely 
 different, being more desert, yet better adapted to a road than 
 the former, having a more solid foundation. The mountains 
 in this region are so isolated as to admit of a passage through 
 them in almost any direction. From our descent into this part 
 of the route to Owen's Mountains it is about 50 miles, and pre 
 sents no obstacle in the way of the erection of a road, and needs 
 but little grading. When within 25 or 30 miles of the pass in 
 Owen's Mountains to which the way-bill directed us, most of 
 the company, becoming alarmed at the prospects, and being 
 deceived by the gestures of two Indian captives, took a south 
 course for 100 miles, or near that, and were then compelled to 
 leave their wagons and cross Owen's Mountains on foot, and 
 that, too, over its very highest summits, and where it spreads 
 itself into four distinct ranges, which, however, terminate a little 
 further south. 
 
 " From these heights, a depression could be seen to the north. 
 where we should have crossed. The distance from the desert, 
 east of Owen's Mountains, to Owen's Eiver, I suppose is about 50 
 miles ; from Owen's Lake to Walker's Pass is about 50 miles ; 
 and all that distance, or most of it, is an open valley, from five to 
 ten miles wide, lying between the Sierra Nevada and Owen's 
 Mountains. The ascent from the eastern side to the summit of 
 Sierra, in Walker's Pass, is gradual and easy - r and the descent 
 down Kern Eiver is still more so. A part of our company 
 passed through in January, 1849, and found no snow. The 
 entire distance from the Divide on the Spanish trail to Walker's 
 Pass I estimate at about 350 miles. In all this distance, Owen's 
 Mountain is the only impediment, and, from all that I could 
 learn and see, I am satisfied that there is a good pass, and that 
 when it is thoroughly explored, it will prove no real impedi 
 ment. In all this distance, you find no impediment from snow 
 whatever. Now, if the country east of the Wahsatch is equal 
 
136 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 to that part of the route west of the Wahsatch, I have no hesi 
 tancy in saying that, for distance and locality, it has greatly 
 the preference over every other. I have personal knowledge, 
 and actual observation, of a part, at least, of both the North 
 and South routes." 
 
 THE END. 
 
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I " " I 
 
 
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 FROM THE LAST LONDON EDITION, COMPLETE. 
 
 
 
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 FAMILY PRAYERS AND HYMNS, 
 
 
 
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 AND 
 
 
 
 TABLES FOR THE REGULAR READING OF THE SCRIPTURES, 
 
 
 
 By Rev. S. C. WINCHESTER, A. M., 
 
 
 
 Late Pastor of the Sixth Presbyterian Church, Philadelphia ; and the Presbyterian Church at 
 
 
 
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 One volume, 12m o. 
 
 
 L 8 
 
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 This edition has been carefully compared with the recent London edition of Mr. Murray, and 
 made complete by tlie addition of more than fifty pages of poems heretofore unpublished in Eng 
 land. Among these there are a number that have never appeared in any American edition ; and 
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 POETICAL WORKS, 
 
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 tapir irafr CjjnitiHira's tynm unit 
 
 &farka. 
 
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 a late Edition of the Aldine Poets, now publishing in London. 
 
 WITH SEVEN BEAUTIFUL ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 The distinguished Professor Silliman, speaking of this edition, observes : " I am as much gratified 
 oy 'he elegance and fine taste of your edition, as by the noble tribute of genius and moral excel 
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 9 
 
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 THE POETICAL WORKS OF ROGERS, CAMPBELL, MONTGOMERY, 
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 The beauty, correctness, and convenience of this favourite edition of these standard authors are 
 
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 that the publishers have now issued an illustrated edition, which greatly enhances its former value. 
 
 The engravings are excellent and well selected. It is the best library edition extant. 
 
 CRABBE, HEBER, AND POLLOK'S POETICAL WORKS. 
 
 COMPLETE IN ONE VOLUME, OCTAVO. 
 WITH SIX BEAUTIFUL ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 A writer in the Boston Traveller holds the following language with reference to these valuable 
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 "Mr. Editor: I wish, without any idea of puffing, to say a word or two upon the 'Library of 
 English Poets' that is now published at Philadelphia, by Lippincott, Grambo &. Co. It is certainly, 
 taking into consideration the elegant manner in which it is printed, and the reasonable price at 
 which it is afforded to purchasers, the best edition of the modern British Poets that has ever been 
 published in this country. Each volume is an octavo of about 500 pages, double columns, stereo 
 typed, and accompanied with fine engravings and biographical sketches ; and most of them are 
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 the entire works of Montgomery, Gray, Beattie, Collins, Byron, Cowper, Thomson, Milton, Young, 
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 smith, and other masters of the lyre. The publishers are doing a great service by their publication, 
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 nf |fortiml dkofntura: 
 
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 TIONS FROM THE BEST MODERN BRITISH AND 
 
 AMERICAN POETS. 
 
 EDITED BTT SARAH JOSEPHA HALE. 
 As nightingales do upon glow-worms feed, 
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 Of Nature and of Beauty. 
 
 Bailey's Fcstut. 
 
 Beautifully illustrated with Engravings. In one super-royal octavo volume, in various 
 
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 The publishers extract, from the many highly complimentary notices of the above valuable and 
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 celebrity. It is invaluable to a writer, while to the ordinary reader it presents every subject at a 
 glance." Godey's Lady's Book. 
 
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 habits of mind, and her long occupation with literature, has given her peculiar facilities ; and tho 
 roughly has she-accomplished her task in the work before us." Sartain's Magazine. 
 
 " It is a choice collection of poetical extracts from every English and American author worth 
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 " There is nothing negative about this work ; it is positively good." Evening Bulletin. 
 
 10 
 
LIPPINCOTT, GRAMBO & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 THE DIAMOND EDITION OF BYRON, 
 THE POETICAL WORKS OF LORD BYRON, 
 
 WITH A SKETCH OP HIS LIFE. 
 COMPLETE IN ONE NEAT DUODECIMO VOLUME, "WITH STEEL PLATES. 
 
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 " The Poetical Works of Lord Byron, complete in one volume : published by L., G. & Co., Phila 
 delphia. We hazard nothing in saying that, take it altogether, this is the most elegant work ever 
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 " ' In a single volume, not larger than an ordinary duodecimo, the publishers have embraced the 
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 " We extract the above from Godey's Lady's Book. The notice itself, we are given to understand, 
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 " We have to add our commendation in favour of this beautiful volume, a copy of which has 
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 THE DIAMOND EDITION OF MOORE, 
 
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 THE POETICAL WORKsToF THOMAS MOORE, 
 
 COLLECTED BY HIMSELF. 
 
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 THE POWER AND PROGRESS OF THE UNITED STATES, 
 
 
 
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 BY GUILLAUME TELL POUSSIN, 
 
 
 
 LATE MINISTER OF THE REPUBLIC OF FRANCE TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 
 
 FIRST AMERICAN, FROM THE THIRD PARIS EDITION. 
 
 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH BY EDMOND L. DU BARRY, M. D., 
 
 
 
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 12 
 
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 THE FARMER'S AND PLANTER'S ENCYCLOP/EDIA, 
 
 \p /flrmrr'0 ani junto's fnnjrlDpMa nf Unral Affairs, 
 
 BY CUTHBERT W. JOHNSON. 
 ADAPTED TO THE UNITED STATES BY GOUVERNEUR EMERSON, 
 
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 IN ONE LARGE OCTAVO VOLUME. 
 
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 THE PRACTICAL FARRIER, FOR FARMERS: 
 
 COMPRISING A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OP THE NOBLE AND USEFUL ANIMAL- 
 
 THE HORSE; 
 
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 TO WHICH IS ADDED, 
 
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 BIT RICHARD MASON, M. D., 
 
 Formerly of Surry County, Virginia. 
 
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 THE GENTLEMAN'S NEW POCKET FARRIER: 
 
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 THE HORSE; 
 
 WITH MODES OF MANAGEMENT IN ALL CASES, AND TREATMENT IN DISEASE. 
 
 BIT RICHARD MASON, M. D., 
 
 Formerly of Sorry County, Virginia. 
 
 To which is added, A PRIZE ESSAY ON MULES; and AN APPENDIX, containing Recipes for 
 
 Diseases of Horses, Oxen, Cows, Calves, Si.fcep, Dogs, Swine, &c. <kc. ; with Annals 
 
 of the Turf, American Stud-Book, Rules for Training, Racing, <to. 
 
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 J. S. SKINNER, Editor now of the Farmer's Library, New York, &c. <kc. 
 
 18 
 
LirPINCOTT, GRAMBO & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 HINOS'S FARRIERY AND_STUD-BOOK-NEW EDITION. 
 FARRIERY, 
 
 TAUGHT ON A NEW AND EASY PLAN: 
 
 mim n tip 
 
 Irnktits nf tip Ira ; 
 
 With Instructions to the Shoeing Smith, Farrier, and Groom ; preceded by a Popular Description of 
 the Animal Functions in Health, and how these are to be restored when disordered. 
 
 BY JOHN HINDS, VETERINARY SURGEON. 
 
 With considerable Additions and Improvements, particularly adapted to this country, 
 
 BY THOMAS M. SMITH, 
 Veterinary Surgeon, and Member of the London Veterinary Medical Society. 
 
 WITH A SUPPLEMENT, BY J. S. SKINNER. 
 
 The publishers have received numerous flattering notices of the great practical value of these 
 works. The distinguished editor of the American Farmer, speaking of them, observes: "We 
 cannot too highly recommend these books, and therefore advise every owner of a horse to obtain 
 them." 
 
 "There are receipts in those books that show how Pounder may be cured, and the traveller pur 
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 of Montpelier, Rappahannock county, Virginia, as founded on his own observation in several cases." 
 
 * The constant demand for Mason's and Hinds's Farrier has induced the publishers, Messrs. Lip- 
 
 Sincott, Grambo & Co., to put forth new editions, with a ' Supplement' of 100 pages, by J. S. Skinner, 
 sq. We should have sought to render an acceptable service to our agricultural readers, by giving 
 a chapter from the Supplement, 'On the Relations between Man and the Domestic Animals, espe 
 cially the Horse, and the Obligations thoy impose ;' or the one on ' The Form of Animals ;' but that 
 either one of them would overrun the space here allotted to such subjects." 
 
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 TO CARPENTERS AND MECHANICS. 
 
 Just Published. 
 
 A NEW AND IMPROVED EDITION OP 
 
 THE CARPENTER'S NEW GUIDE, 
 
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 great variety of original Designs. 
 
 ALSO, A FULL EXEMPLIFICATION OF THE 
 
 Theory and Practice of Stair Building-, 
 
 Cornices, Mouldings, and Dressings of every description. Including also some observations and 
 calculations on the Strength of Timber. 
 
 BY PETER NICHOLSON, 
 
 Author of "The Carpenters and Joiner's Assistant," "The Student's Instructor to the Five 
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 BY N. K. DAVIS, 
 
 And containing numerous New, Improved, and Original Designs, for Roofs, Domes, Ac., 
 
 BY SAMUEL SLOAN, ARCHITECT, 
 
 Author of "The Model Architect." 
 
 SIXTEENTH EDITION. PRICE, FOUR DOLLARS. 
 
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 A DICTIONARY OF SELECT AND POPULAR QUOTATIONS, 
 
 WHICH ARE IN DAILY USE. 
 
 TAKEN FROM THE LATIN, FRENCH, GREEK, SPANISH AND ITALIAN LANGUAGES. 
 
 Together with a copious Collection of Law Maxims and Law Terms, translated into 
 
 English, with Illustrations, Historical and Idiomatic. 
 
 NEW AMERICAN EDITION, CORRECTED, WITH ADDITIONS. 
 
 One volume, 12mo. 
 
 This volume comprises a copious collection of legal and other terms which are in common use, 
 with English translations and historical illustrations; and we should judge its author had surely- 
 been to a great " Feast of Languages," and stole all the scraps. A work of this character should 
 have an extensive sale, as it entirely obviates a serious difficulty in which most readers are involved 
 by the frequent occurrence of Latin, Greek, and French passages, which we supnose are introduced 
 by authors for a mere show of learning a difficulty very perplexing to readers in general. This 
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 English" will do as well ; but we will not enlarge on this point. 
 
 If the book is useful to those unacquainted with other languages, it is no less valuable to the 
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 RUSCHENBERGER'S NATURAL HISTORY, 
 
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 BIT W. S. W. RUSCHENBERGER, 2VX. D. 
 
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 GREAT TRUTHS BY GREAT AUTHORS. 
 GREAT TRUTHS iFGREAT AUTHORS; 
 
 A DICTIONARY 
 
 OF AIDS TO REFLECTION, QUOTATIONS OF MAXIMS, METAPHORS, 
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 FROM WRITERS OF ALL AGES AND BOTH HEMISPHERES, 
 
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 THE YOUNG DOMINICAN; 
 OR, THE MYSTERIES OF THE INQUISITION, 
 
 AND OTHER SECRET SOCIETIES OF SPAIN. 
 BY M. V. DE FEREAL. 
 
 WITH HISTORICAL NOTES, BY M, MANUEL DE CUENDIAS, 
 
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 ILLUSTRATED WITH TWENTY SPLENDID ENGRAVINGS BY FRENCH ARTISTS. 
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 SAY'S POLITICAL ECONOMY, 
 
 A TREATISE ON POLITICAL ECONOMY; 
 
 Or, The Production, Distribution and Consumption of Wealth. 
 
 BY JEAN BAPTISTS SAY. 
 
 FIFTH AMERICAN EDITION, WITH ADDITIONAL NOTES, 
 BY C. C. BIDDLE, ESQ. 
 
 In one volume, octavo. 
 
 It would be beneficial to our country if all those who are aspiring to office, were required by their 
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 The distinguished biographer of the author, in noticing this work, observes : " Happily for science, 
 he commenced that study which forms the basis of his admirable Treatise on Political Economy ; a 
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 WITH A LIFE OF THE AUTHOR: 
 
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 THE MEXICAN WAR AND ITS HEROES; 
 
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 WITH A BIOGRAPHY OF THE OFFICERS. 
 
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 AN ACCOUNT OF THE CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA AND NEW MEXICO, 
 
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 fore feels competent to give pictures of " Southern Life, as it is." 
 
 Pledged to no clique or party, and free from the pressure of any and all extranoons influences, 
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 WHAT IS CHURCH HISTORY? 
 
 AVINDICATION OF THE IDEA OF HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENTS, 
 
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 THE ANTEDILUVIANS; Or, The World Destroyed. 
 
 
 
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 BY WAY OF ABSTRACT TO WHICH IS ADDED, A DISCOURSE UNDER 
 
 
 
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 BEING A CHOICE COLLECTION OF THE MOST FASHIONABLE SONGS, MANY OF WHICH 
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 any indelicate or improper allusions; and with great propriety it may claim the title of "The Par 
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 Nor is not moved with concord of sweet sounds, 
 la fit for treasons, stratagems, and spoils." 
 
 
 
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 CAREFULLY REVISED, 
 
 
 
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 THE LIFE AND OPINIONS OF TRISTRAM SHANDY, GENTLEMAN, 
 
 COMPRISING THE HUMOROOS ADVENTURES OF 
 
 UNCLE TOBY AND CORPORAL TRIM. 
 
 BTT L. STERNE. 
 Beautifully Illustrated by Darley. Stitched. 
 
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 BY L. STERNE. 
 Illustrated ag above by Darley. Stitched. 
 
 The beauties of this author are so well known, and his errors in style and expression so few and 
 far between, that one reads with renewed delight his delicate turns, &c. 
 
 THE LIFE OF GENERAL JACKSON, 
 
 "WITH A LIKENESS OF THE OLD HERO. 
 One volume, 18mo. 
 
 LIFE OF P AU L JONES. 
 
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 TOGETHER WITH VARIOUS ADVENTURES IN GREECE AND AMERICA, 
 
 WRITTEN BY HIMSELF, 
 
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 the Greek Boy in the Sunday-School. 
 
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 EDITED BY MINARD W. WILSON. 
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 CAMP LIFE OF A VOLUNTEER, 
 
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 BY "ONE WHO HAS SEEN THE ELEPHANT." 
 
 \h of 
 
 COMPRISING A NARRATIVE OF EVENTS CONNECTED WITH HIS PROFESSIONAL 
 CAREER, AND AUTHENTIC INCIDENTS OF HIS EARLY YEARS. 
 
 BY J. REESE FRY AND R. T. CONRAD. 
 
 With an original and accurate Portrait, and eleven elegant Illustrations, by Darley, 
 In one handsome 12mo. volume. 
 
 * It is by far the fullest and most interesting biography of General Taylor that we have ever seen." 
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 " On the whole, we are satisfied that this volume is the most correct aud comprehensive one yet 
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 " The superiority of this edition over the ephemeral publications of the day consists in fuller and 
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