IN THE MOUNTAINS IN THE MOUNTAINS GARDEN CITY NEW YORK DOUBLE DAY, PAGE & COMPANY 1920 COPYRIGHT, 1920, BY DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, INCLUDING THAT OF TRANSLATION INTO FOREIGN LANGUAGES, INCLUDING THE SCANDINAVIAN URL IN THE MOUNTAINS IN THE MOUNTAINS July %2nd. I want to be quiet now. I crawled up here this morning from the valley like a sick ant, struggled up to the little house on the mountain side that I haven't seen since the first August of the war, and dropped down on the grass outside it, too tired even to be able to thank God that I had got home. Here I am once more, come back alone to the house that used to be so full of happy life that its little wooden sides nearly burst with the sound of it. I never could have dreamed that I would come back to it alone. Five years ago, how rich I was in love; now how poor, how stripped of all I had. Well, it doesn't matter. Nothing matters. I'm too tired. I want to be quiet now. Till I'm not so tired. If only I can be quiet. . . . 3 4 IN THE MOUNTAINS July 23rd. Yesterday all day long I lay on the grass in front of the door and watched the white clouds slowly passing one after the other at long, lazy intervals over the tops of the delphiniums the row of delphiniums I planted all those years ago. I didn't think of anything; I just lay there in the hot sun, blinking up and counting the intervals be- tween one spike being reached and the next. I was conscious of the colour of the del- phiniums, jabbing up stark into the sky, and of how blue they were; and yet not so blue, so deeply and radiantly blue, as the sky. Behind them was the great basin of space filled with that other blue of the air, that lovely blue with violet shades in it; for the mountain I am on drops sharply away from the edge of my tiny terrace-garden, and the whole of the space between it and the moun- tains opposite brims all day long with blue and violet light. At night the bottom of the valley looks like water, and the lamps in the little town lying along it like quivering re- flections of the stars. I wonder why I write about these things. As if I didn't know them! Why do I tell myself in writing what I already so well IN THE MOUNTAINS 5 know? Don't I know about the mountain, and the brimming cup of blue light? It is because, I suppose, it's lonely to stay inside oneself. One has to come out and talk. And if there is no one to talk to one imagines someone as though one were writing a letter to somebody who loves one, and who will want to know, with the sweet eagerness and solicitude of love, what one does and what the place one is in looks like. It makes one feel less lonely to think like this to write it down, as if to one's friend who cares. For I'm afraid of loneliness; shiveringly, terribly afraid. I don't mean the ordinary physical loneliness, for here I am, deliberately trav- elled away from London to get to it, to its spaciousness and healing. I mean that awful loneliness of spirit that is the ultimate tragedy of life. When you've got to that, really reached it, without hope, without escape, you die. You just can't bear it, and ou die. July 2 It's queer the urge one has to express oneself, to get one's self into words. If I weren't alone I wouldn't write, of course, I would talk. But nearly everything I wanted 6 IN THE MOUNTAINS to say would be things I couldn't say. Not unless it was to some wonderful, perfect, all-understanding listener the sort one used to imagine God was in the days when one said prayers. Not quite like God though, either, for this listener would sometimes say something kind and gentle, and sometimes stroke one's hand a little to show that he understood. Physically, it is most blessed to be alone. After all that has happened, it is most blessed. Perhaps I shall grow well here, alone. Perhaps just sitting on these honey-scented grass slopes will gradually heal me. I'll sit and lick my wounds. I do so dreadfully w r ant to get mended! I do so dreadfully want to get back to confidence in goodness. July %5th. For three days now I've done nothing but lie in the sun, except \vhen meals are put in the open doorway for me. Then I get up reluctantly, like some sleepy animal, and go and eat them and come out again. In the evening it is too cold and dewy here for the grass, so I drag a deep chair into the doorway and sit and stare at the darken- ing sky and the brightening stars. At ten IN THE MOUNTAINS 7 o'clock Antoine, the man of all work who has looked after the house in its years of silence during the war, shuts up everything except this door and withdraws to his own room and his wife; and presently I go in, too, bolting the door behind me, though there is nothing really to shut out except the great night, and I creep upstairs and fall asleep the minute I'm in bed. Indeed, I don't think I'm much more awake in the day than in the night. I'm so tired that I want to sleep and sleep; for years and years; for ever and ever. There was no unpacking to do. Everything was here as I left it five years ago. We only took, five years ago, what each could carry, waving good-bye to the house at the bend of the path and calling to it as the German soldiers called to their disappearing homes, "Back for Christmas!" So that I came again to it with only what I could carry, and had nothing to unpack. All I had to do was to drop my little bag on the first chair I found and myself on to the grass, and in that posi- tion we both stayed till bedtime. Antoine is surprised at nothing. He usedn't to be surprised at my gaiety, which yet might well have seemed to him, accustomed to the sobriety of the peasant women here, excessive; 8 IN THE MOUNTAINS and nor is he now surprised at ray silence. He has made a few inquiries as to the health and whereabouts of the other members of that confident group that waved good-byes five years ago, and showed no surprise when the answer, at nearly every name, was "Dead." He has married since I went away, and hasn't a single one of the five children he might have had, and he doesn't seem surprised at that, either. I am. I imagined the house, while I was away, getting steadily fuller, and used to think that when I came back I would find little Swiss babies scattered all over it; for, after all, there quite well might have been ten, supposing Antoine had happened to pos- sess a natural facility in twins. July 26tk. The silence here is astonishing. There are hardly any birds. There is hardly any wind, so that the leaves are very still and the grass scarcely stirs. The crickets are busy, and the sound of the bells on distant cows pas- turing higher up on the mountains floats down to me, but else there is nothing but a great, sun-flooded silence. When I left London it was raining. The Peace Day flags, still hanging along the IN THE MOUNTAINS 9 streets, drooped heavy with wet in what might have been November air, it was so dank and gloomy. I was prepared to arrive here in one of the mountain mists that settle down on one sometimes for days vast wet stretches of gray stuff like some cold, sodden blanket, muffling one away from the mountains op- posite, and the valley, and the sun. Instead I found summer: beautiful clear summer, fresh arid warm together as only summer up on these honey-scented slopes can be, with the peasants beginning to cut the grass for things happen a month later here than down in the valley, and if you climb higher you can catch up June, and by climbing higher and higher you can climb, if you want to, right back into the spring. But you don't want to if you're me. You don't want to do any- thing but stay quiet where you are. July 27th. If only I don't think if only I don't think and remember how can I not get well again here in the beauty and the gentleness? There's all next month, and September, and perhaps October, too, may be warm and golden. After that I must go back, because the weather in this high place while it is changing 10 IN THE MOUNTAINS A from the calms of autumn to the calms of the exquisite alpine winter is a disagreea- ble, daunting thing. But I have two whole months; perhaps three. Surely I'll be stronger, tougher, by then? Surely I'll at least be better? I couldn't face the winter in London if this desperate darkness and distrust of life is still in my soul. I don't want to talk about my soul. I hate to. But what else am I to call the innermost Me, the thing that has had such wounds, that is so much hurt and has grown so dim that I'm in terror lest it should give up and go under, go quite out, and leave me alone in the dark? July It is dreadful to be so much like Job. Like him I've been extraordinarily stripped of all that made life lovely. Like him I've lost, in a time that is very short to have been packed so full of disasters, nearly everything I loved. And it w r asn't only the war. The war passed over me, as it did over everybody, like some awful cyclone, flattening out hope and fruitfulness, leaving blood and ruins behind it; but it wasn't only that. In the losses of the war, in the anguish of losing one's friends, there was the grisly comfort of IN THE MOUNTAINS 11 companionship in grief; but beyond and besides that life has been devastated for me. I do feel like Job, and I can't bear it. It is so humiliating, being so much stricken. I feel ridiculous as well as wretched; as if some- body had taken my face and rubbed it in dust. And still, like Job, I cling on to what I can of trust in goodness, for if I let that go I know there would be nothing left but death. July 29th. Oh, what is all this talk of death? To-day I suddenly noticed that each day since I've been here what I've written down has been a whine, and that each day while I whined I was in fact being wrapped round by beautiful things, as safe and as perfectly cared for really as a baby fortunate enough to have been born into the right sort of family. Oughtn't I to be ashamed? Of course I ought; and so I am. For, looking at the hours, each hour as I get to it, they are all good. Why should I spoil them, the ones I'm at now, by the vivid remembrance, the aching misery, of those black ones behind me? They, anyhow, are done with; and the ones I have got to now are plainly good. And as for Job 12 IN THE MOUNTAINS who so much haunted me yesterday, I can't really be completely like him, for at least I've not yet had to take a potsherd and sit down somewhere and scrape. But perhaps I had better touch wood over that, for one has to keep these days a wary eye on God. Mrs. Antoine, small and twenty-five, who has been provided by Antoine, that expert in dodging inconveniences, with a churn suited to her size out of which she produces little pats of butter suited to my size every day, Switzerland not having any butter in it at all for sale Mrs. Antoine looked at me to-day when she brought out food at dinner time, and catching my eye she smiled at me, and so I smiled at her, and instantly she began to talk. Up to now she has crept about softly on the tips of her toes as if she were afraid of waking me, and I had supposed it to be her usual fashion of moving and that it was natural to her to be silent; but to-day, after we had smiled at each other, she stood over me with a dish in one hand and a plate in the other, and held forth at length with the utmost blitheness, like some carolling black - -d, about her sufferings, and the sufferings IN THE MOUNTAINS 13 of Antoine, and the sufferings of everybody during the war. The worse the sufferings she described had been the blither became her carollings; and with a final chirrup of the most flute-like cheerfulness she finished this way: "Ah, mafoi, oui il y avail un temps ow il a fallu se fier entierement au bon Dieu. C'etait affreux." July 30th. It's true that the worst pain is the remem- bering one's happiness when one is no longer happy, and perhaps it may be just as true that past miseries end by giving one some sort of satisfaction. Just their being over must dispose one to regard them com- placently. Certainly I already remember with a smile and a not unaffectionate shrug troubles that seemed very dreadful a few years back. But this this misery that has got me now, isn't it too deep, doesn't it cut too ruthlessly at the very roots of my life ever to be something that I will smile at? It seems impossible that I ever should. I think the remembrance of this year will always come like a knife cutting through any little happiness I may manage to collect. 14 IN THE MOUNTAINS You see, what has happened has taken away my faith in goodness I don't know who you are that I keep on wanting to tell things to, but I must talk and tell you. Yes; that is what it has done; and the hurt goes too far down to be healed. Yet I know time is a queer, wholesome thing. I've lived long enough to have found that out. It is very sanitary. It cleans up everything. It never fails to sterilize and purify. Quite possibly I shall end by being a wise old lady who discourses with the utmost sprightliness, after her regular meals, on her past agonies, and extracts much agreeable entertainment from them, even is amusing about them. You see, they will be so far away, so safely done with; never, anyhow, going to happen again. Why of course in time, in years and years, one's troubles must end by being entertaining. But I don't believe, however old I am and however wisely hilarious, I shall ever be able to avoid the stab in the back, the clutch of pain at the heart, that the remembrance of beautiful past happiness gives one. Lost. Lost. Gone. And one is still alive, and still gets up carefully every day, and buttons all one's buttons, and goes down to breakfast. IN THE MOUNTAINS 15 July 31st. Once I knew a bishop rather intimately oh, nothing that wasn't most creditable to us both and he said to me, "Dear child, you , will always be happy if you are good." I'm afraid he couldn't have been quite candid, or else he was very inexperienced, for I have never been so terribly good in the bishop's sense as these last three years turning my back on every private wish, dreadfully unselfish, devoted, a perfect mon- ster of goodness. And unhappiness went with me every step of the way. I much prefer what someone else said to me (not a bishop but yet wise), to whom I commented once on the really extraordinary bubbling happiness that used to wake up with me every morning, the amazing joy of each day as it came, the warm, flooding gratitude that I should be so happy this was before the war. He said, beginning also like the bishop but, unlike him, failing in delicacy at the end, "Dear child, it is because you have a sound stomach." August ]fit. The last first of August I was here was the 1914 one. It was just such a day as this 16 IN THE MOUNTAINS blue, hot, glorious of colour and light. We in this house, cut off in our remoteness from the noise and excitement of a world setting out with cries of enthusiasm on its path of suicide, cut off by distance and steepness even from the valley where the dusty Swiss soldiers were collecting and every sort of rumour ran like flames, went as usual through our pleasant day, reading, talking, clamber- ing in the pine-woods, eating romantic meals out in the little garden that hangs like a fringe of flowers along the edge of the rock, unconscious, serene, confident in life. Just as to-day the delphiniums stood brilliantly blue, straight, and motionless on this edge, and it might have been the very same purple pansies crowding at their feet. Nobody came to tell us anything. We were lapped in peace. Of course even up here there had been the slight ruffle of the Archduke's murder in June, and the slight wonder toward the end of July as to what would come of it; but the ruffle and the wonder died away in what seemed the solid, ever- enduring comfortableness of life. Such com- fortableness went too deep, was too much settled, too heavy, to make it thinkable that it should ever really be disturbed. There IN THE MOUNTAINS 17 would be quarrels, but they would be local- ized. Why, the mere feeding of the vast modern armies would etc., etc. We were very innocent and trustful in those days. Looking back at it, it is so pathetic as to be almost worthy of tears. Well, I don't want to remember all that. One turns with a sick weariness from the recollection. At least one is thankful that we're at Now and not at Then. This first of August has the great advantage of having all that was coming after that first of August behind it instead of ahead of it. At least on this first of August most of the killing, of the slaughtering of young bodies and bright hopes, has left off. The world is very horrible still, but nothing can ever be so horrible as killing. August %nd. The only thing to do with one's old sorrows is to tuck them up neatly in their shroud and turn one's face away from their grave toward what is coming next. That is what I am going to do. To-day I have the kind of feelings that take hold of convalescents. I hardly dare hope it, but I have done things to-day that do seem 18 IN THE MOUNTAINS convalescent; done them and liked doing them; things that I haven't till to-day had the faintest desire to do. I've been for a walk. And a quite good walk, up in the forest where the water tumbles over rocks and the air is full of resin. And then when I got home I burrowed about among my books, arranging their volumes and loving the feel of them. It is more than ten days since I got here, and till to-day I haven't moved; till to-day I've lain about with no wish to move, with no wish at all except to have no wish. Once or twice I have been ashamed of myself; and once or twice into the sleepy twilight of my mind has come a little flicker of suspicion that perhaps life still, after all, may be beautiful, that it may perhaps, after all, be just as beautiful as ever if only I will open my eyes and look. But the flicker has soon gone out again, damped out by the vault-like atmosphere of the place it had got into. To-day I do feel different; and oh, how glad I'd be if I could be glad! I don't believe there was ever anybody who loved being happy as much as I did. What I mean is that I was so acutely conscious of being happy, so appreciative of it; that I wasn't IN THE MOUNTAINS IS ever bored, and was always and continuously grateful for the whole delicious loveliness of the world. I think it must be unusual never to have been bored. I realize this when I hear other people talk. Certainly I'm never bored as people sometimes appear to be by being alone, by the absence of amusement from without; and as for bores, persons who obviously were bores, they didn't bore me, they interested me. It was so wonderful to me, their unawareness that they were bores. Besides, they were usually very kind; and also, shameful though it is to confess, bores like me, and I am touched by being liked, even by a bore. Sometimes it is true I have had to take temporary refuge in doing what Dr. Johnson found so convenient with- drawing my attention, but this is dangerous because of the inevitable accompanying glazed and wandering eye. Still, much can be done by practice in combining coherency of response with private separate meditation. Just before I left London I met a man whose fate it has been for years to sit daily in the Law Courts delivering judgments, and he told me that he took a volume of poetry with him preferably Wordsworth and read 20 IN THE MOUNTAINS in it as it lay open on his knees under the table, to the great refreshment and invigora- tion of his soul; and yet, so skilled had he become in the practice of two attentivenesses, he never missed a word that was said or a point that was made. There are indeed nice people in the world. I did like that man. It seemed such a wise and pleasant thing to do, to lay the dust of those sad places, where people who once liked each other go because they are angry, with the gentle waters of poetry. I am sure that man is the sort of husband whose wife's heart gives a jump of gladness each time he comes home. August 3rd. These burning August days, when I live in so great a glory of light and colour that it is like living in the glowing heart of a jewel, how impossible it is to keep from gratitude. I'm so grateful to be here, to have here to come to. Really I think I'm beginning to feel different remote from the old, unhappy things that were strangling me dead; restored; almost as though I might really some day be in tune again. There's a moon now, and in the evenings I get into a coat and lie in the low chair in the doorway watching it, and IN THE MOUNTAINS 21 sometimes I forget for as long as a whole half hour that the happiness I believed in is gone for ever. I love sitting there and feeling little gusts of scent cross my face every now and then, as if someone had patted it softly in passing by. Sometimes it is the scent of the cut grass that has been baking all day in the sun, but most often it is the scent from a group of Madonna lilies just outside the door, planted by Antoine in one of the Septembers of the war. "C'est ma maman qui me les a donnes," he said; and when I had done expressing my joy at their beauty and their fragrance, and my appreciation of his maman s conduct in having made my garden so lovely a present, he said that she had given them in order that, by brewing their leaves and applying the resulting concoction at the right moment, he and Mrs. Antoine might be cured of sup- purating wounds. "But you haven't got any suppurating wounds," I said, astonished and disillusioned. ""Ah, pour ca r?or?," said Antoine. "Mais il nefaut pas attendre qiCon les a pour se procurer le remcde." Well, if he approaches every future con- tingency with the same prudence he must be 22 IN THE MOUNTAINS kept very busy; but the long winters of the war up here have developed in him, I suppose, a Swiss Family Robinson-like ingenuity of preparation for eventualities. What lovely long words I've just been writ- ing. I can't be as convalescent as I thought. I'm sure real vigour is brief. You don't say Damn if your vitality is low; you trail among querulous, water-blooded words like regret- table and unfortunate. But I think, perhaps, being in my top layers very adaptable, it was really the elderly books I've been reading the last day or two that made me arrange my language along their lines. Not old books- elderly. Written in the great Victorian age, when the emotions draped themselves chastely in lengths, and avoided the rude simplicities of shorts. There is the oddest lot of books in this house, pitchforked together by circumstances, and sometimes their accidental rearrangement by Antoine after cleaning their shelves each spring of my absence would make their writers, if they could know, curdle between their own covers. Some are standing on their heads Antoine has no prejudices about the right side up of an author most of those in sets have their volumes wrong, and yesterday I found a IN THE MOUNTAINS 23 Henry James, lost from the rest of him, lost even, it looked like, to propriety, held tight between two ladies. The ladies were Ouida and Ella Wheeler Wilcox. They would hardly let him go, they had got him so tight. I pulled him out, a little damaged, and restored him, ruffled in spite of my careful smoothing, to his proper place. It was the "Son and Bro- ther"; and there he had been for months, per- haps years, being hugged. Dreadful. When I come down to breakfast, and find I am a little ahead of the cafe au lait, I wander into the place that has most books in it though indeed books are in every place, and have even oozed along the passages and fill up the time till Mrs. Antoine calls me in rescue work of an urgent nature. But it is impossible, I find, to tidy books without ending by sitting on the floor in the middle of a great untidiness and reading. The coffee grows cold and the egg repulsive, but still I read. You open a book idly, and you see: The most glaring anomalies seemed to afford them no intellectual inconvenience, neither would they listen to any arguments as to the waste of money and happiness ichich their folly caused them. I was allowed almost to call them 24 IN THE MOUNTAINS life-long self-deceivers fo their faces, and they said it was quite true, but that it did not matter. Naturally then you read on. You open another book idly, and you see: Our admiration of King Alfred is greatly increased by the fact that we know very little about him. Naturally then you read on. You open another book idly, and you see: Organic life, we are told, has developed gradually from the protozoon to the philosopher, and this development, we are assured, is in- dubitably an advance. Unfortunately it is the philosopher, not tJie protozoon, who gives us this assurance. Naturally then you read on. You open but I could go on all day like this, as I do go on being caught among the books, and only the distant anxious chirps of Mrs. Antoine, who comes round to the front door to clear away breakfast and finds it hasn't been begun, can extricate me. Perhaps I had better not get arranging books before breakfast. It is too likely to worry that bird-like Mrs. Antoine, who is afraid, I daresay, that if I don't drink my coffee while it is hot I may relapse into that comatose condition that filled her evidently IN THE MOUNTAINS 25 with much uneasiness and awe. She hadn't expected, I suppose, the mistress of the house, when she did at last get back to it, to behave like some strange alien slug, crawled up the mountain only to lie motionless in the sun for the best part of a fortnight. I heard her, after the first two days of this conduct, explaining it to Antoine, who, however, needed no explanation because of his god-like habit of never being surprised, and her explanation was that cetait la guerre convenient ex- planation that has been used to excuse many more unnatural and horrible things during the last five years than somebody's behaving as if she were a slug. But, really, the accidental juxtapositions on my bookshelves ! Just now I found George Moore (his "Memories of my Dead Life," with its delicate unmoralities, its delicious pag- anism) with on one side of him a book called "Bruey : a Little Worker for Christ," by Frances Ridley Havergal, and on the other an Ameri- can book called "The Unselfishness of God, and How I Discovered It." The surprise of finding these three with their arms, as it were, round each other's necks, got me nearer to laughter than I have been for months. If anybody had been with 26 IN THE MOUNTAINS me I would have laughed. Is it possible that I am so far on to-day in convalescence that I begin to want a companion? Somebody to laugh with? Why, if that is so . . . But I'd best not be too hopeful. August 4th. This day five years ago! What a thrill went through us up here, how proud we felt of England, of belonging to England; proud with that extraordinary intensified patriotism that lays hold of those who are not in their own country. It is very like the renewal of affection, the re-flaming up of love, for the absent. The really wise are often absent; though, indeed, their absences should be arranged judiciously. Too much absence is very nearly as bad as too little no, not really very nearly; I should rather say too much has its draw- backs, too, though only at first. Persisted in these drawbacks turn into merits; for doesn't absence, prolonged enough, lead in the end to freedom? I suppose, however, for most people complete freedom is too lonely a thing, therefore the absence should only be just long enough to make room for one to see clear again. Just a little withdrawal everv now 27 and then, just a little, so as to get a good view once more of those dear qualities we first loved, so as to be able to see that they're still there, still shining. How can you see anything if your nose is right up against it? I know when we were in England, enveloped in her life at close quarters, bewildered by the daily din of the newspapers, stunned by the cries of the politicians, distracted by the denouncements, accusations, revilings with which the air was convulsed, and acutely aware of the back- ground of sad, drizzling rain on the pavements, and of places like Cromwell Road and Shaftes- bury Avenue and Ashley Gardens being there all the time, never different, great ugly houses with the rain dripping on them, gloomy, temporary lodgings for successive processions of the noisy dead I know when we were in the middle of all this, right up tight against it, we couldn't see, and so we for- got the side of England that was great. But when she went to war we were not there; we had been out of her for months, and she had got focussed again patriotically. Again she was the precious stone set in a silver sea, the other Eden, derm-Paradise, the England my England, the splendid thing 28 IN THE MOUNTAINS that had made splendid poets, the hope and heart of the world. Long before she had buckled on her sword how easily one drops into the old language! long before there was any talk of war, just by sheer being away from her we had re-acquired that peculiar ag- gressive strut of the spirit that is patriotism. We liked the Swiss, we esteemed them; and when we crossed into Italy we liked the Italians, too, though esteeming them less I think because they seemed less thrifty and enjoyed themselves more, and we were still sealed up in the old opinion that undis- criminating, joyless thrift was virtuous. But though we liked and esteemed these people it was from a height. At the back of our minds we always felt superior, at the back of our minds we were strutting. Every day of further absence from England, our England, increased that delicious subconscious smug- ness. Then when on the 4th of August she "came in," came in gloriously because of her word to Belgium, really this little house contained so much enthusiasm and pride that it almost could be heard crack- ing. What shall we do when we all get to heaven and aren't allowed to have any patriotism? IN THE MOUNTAINS 29 There, surely, we shall at last be forced into one vast family. But I imagine that every time God isn't looking the original patriotism of each will break out, right along throughout eternity; and some miserable English tramp, who has only been let into heaven because he positively wasn't man enough for hell, will seize his opportunity to hiss at a neat Swiss business man from Berne, whose life on earth was blamelessly spent in the production of cuckoo-clocks, and whose mechanical- ingenuity was such that he even, so ran the heavenly rumours among the mild, astonished angels, had propagated his family by ma- chinery, that he, the tramp, is a b Briton, and if he, the b b b Swiss (I believe tramps always talk in b's; anyhow news- papers and books say they do), doubts it, he'd b well, better come outside and he, the tramp, will b well, soon show him. To which the neat Berne gentleman, on other subjects so completely pervaded by the local heavenly calm, will answer with a sudden furious mechanical buzzing, much worse and much more cowing to the tramp than any swear-words, and passionately up- hold the might and majesty of Switzerland in a prolonged, terrific whrrrrr. 30 IN THE MOUNTAINS August 5th. I want to talk. I must be better. August 6th. Of course, the most battered, the most obstinately unhappy person couldn't hold out for ever against the all-pervading bene- diction of this place. I know there is just the same old wretchedness going on as usual outside it cruelty, people wantonly making each other miserable, love being thrown away or frightened into fits, the dreadful betrayal of trust that is the blackest wretched- ness of all I can almost imagine that if I were to hang over my terrace-wall I would see these well-known dreary horrors crawling about in the valley below, crawling and tumbling about together in a ghastly tangle. But at least there isn't down there now my own particular contribution to the general wretchedness. I brought that up here; dragged it up with me, not because I wanted to, but because it would come. Surely, though, I shall leave it here? Surely there'll be a day when I'll be able to pack it away into a neat bundle and take it up to the top of some arid, never-again-to-be-visited rock, and leave it there and say, "Good-bye. I'm IN THE MOUNTAINS 31 separate. I've cut the umbilical cord. Good- bye, old misery. Now for what comes next." I can't believe this won't happen. I can't believe I won't go back down the mountain different from what I was when I came. Lighter, anyhow, and more wholesome in- side. Oh, I do so want to be wholesome inside again! Nicely aired, sunshiny; instead of all dark, and stuffed up with black memories. August 7th. But I am getting on. Every morning now when I wake and see the patch of bright sunshine on the wall at the foot of my bed that means another perfect day, my heart goes out in an eager prayer that I may not disgrace so great a blessing by private gloom. And I do think each of these last days has been a little less disgraced than its yesterday. Hardly a smudge, for instance, has touched any part of this afternoon. I have felt as though indeed I were at last sitting up and taking notice. And the first thing I want to do, the first use I want to make of having turned the corner, is to talk. How feminine. But I love to talk. Again how feminine. Well, I also love to listen. 32 IN THE MOUNTAINS But chiefly I love to listen to a man; there- fore, once more, how feminine. Well, I'm a woman, so naturally I'm feminine; and a man does seem to have more to say that one wants to hear than a woman. I do want to hear what a woman has to say, too, but not for so long a time, and not so often. Not nearly so often. What reason to give for this reluctance I don't quite know, except that a woman when she talks seems usually to have forgotten the salt. Also she is apt to go on talking; sometimes for quite a little while after you have begun to wish she would leave off. One of the last people who stayed here with me alone in 1914, just before the ar- rival of the gay holiday group of the final days, was a woman of many gifts le trop est rennemi du bien who started, therefore, being full of these gifts and having eloquently to let them out, talking at the station in the valley where I met her, and didn't, to my growing amazement and chagrin, for I, too, wanted to say something, leave off (except when night wrapped her up in blessed silence) till ten days afterwards, when by the mercy of providence she swallowed a crumb wrong, and so had to stop. IN THE MOUNTAINS 33 How eagerly, released for a moment, I rushed in with as much as I could get out during the brief time I knew she would take to recover! But my voice, hoarse with dis- use, had hardly said three sentences miser- able little short ones when she did recover, and fixing impatient and reproachful eyes on me said: "Do you always talk so much?" Surely that was unjust? August 8th. Now see what Henry James wrote to me to me if you please! I can't get over it, such a feather in my cap. Why, I had almost forgotten I had a cap to have a feather in, so profound has been my humbling since last I was here. In the odd, fairy-tale like way I keep on finding bits of the past, of years ago, as though they were still of the present, even of the last half hour, I found the letter this morning in a room I wandered into after breakfast. It is the only room downstairs besides the hall, and I used to take refuge in it from the other gay inhabitants of the house so as to open and answer letters somewhere cot too distractingly full of cheerful talk; 34 IN THE MOUNTAINS and there on the table, spotlessly kept clean by Antoine but else not touched, were all the papers and odds and ends of five years back exactly as I must have left them. Even some chocolate I had apparently been eating, and some pennies, and a handful of cigarettes, and actually a box of matches it was all there, all beautifully dusted, all as it must have been when last I sat there at the table. If it hadn't been for the silence, the complete, sunny emptiness and silence of the house, I would certainly have thought I had only been asleep and having a bad dream, and that not five years but one uneasy night had gone since I nibbled that chocolate and wrote with those pens. Fascinated and curious I sat down and began eating the chocolate again. It was quite good; made of good, lasting stuff in that good, apparently lasting age we used to live in. And while I ate it I turned over the piles of papers, and there at the bottom of them was a letter from Henry James. I expect I kept it near me on the table because I so much loved it and wanted to re-read it, and wanted, I daresay, at intervals proudly to show it to my friends and make them envious, for it was written at Christmas, IN THE MOUNTAINS 35 1913; months before I left for England. Reading it now my feeling is just astonish- ment that I, 7 should ever have had such a letter. But then I am greatly humbled; I have been on the rocks; and can't believe that such a collection of broken bits as I am now could ever have been a trim bark with all its little sails puffed out by the kindliness and affection of anybody as wonderful as Henry James. Here it is; and it isn't any more vain of me now in my lamed and bruised condition to copy it out and hang on its charming com- pliments than it is vain for a woman who once was lovely and is now grown old to talk about how pretty she used to be: 21 Carlyle Mansions, Cheyne Walk, S. W., December 29th, 1913. Dear- Let me tell you that I simply delight in your beautiful and generous and gracious little letter, and that there isn't a single honeyed word of it that doesn't give me the most exquisite pleasure. You fill the measure and how can I tell you how I like the measure to be filled? None of vour 36 IN THE MOUNTAINS quarter-bushels or half -bushels for my insati- able appetite, but the overflowing heap, pressed down and shaken together and spilling all over the place. So I pick up the golden grains and nibble them one by one! Truly, dear lady, it is the charmingest rosy flower of a letter handed ine straight out of your monstrous snowbank. That you can grow such flowers in such conditions besides growing with such diligence and elegance all sorts of other lovely kinds, has for its ex- planation of course only that you have such a regular teeming garden of a mind. You must mainly inhabit it, of course with your other courts of exercise so grand, if you will, but so grim. Well, you have caused me to revel in pride and joy for I assure you that I have let myself go; all the more that the revelry of the season here itself has been so far from engulfing me that till your witching words came I really felt perched on a moun- tain of lonely bleakness socially and sen- suously speaking alike very much like one of those that group themselves, as I suppose, under your windows. But I have had my Xmastide noiv, and am your all grateful and faithful and all unforgetting old Henry James. IN THE MOUNTAINS 37 Who wouldn't be proud of getting a letter like that? It was wonderful to come across it again, wonderful how my chin went up in the air and how straight I sat up for a bit after reading it. And I laughed, too; for with what an unbuttoned exuberance must I have engulfed him! " Spilling all over the place." I can quite believe it. I had, I suppose, been reading or re-reading some- thing of his, and had been swept off sobriety of expression by delight, and in that condition of emotional unsteadiness and molten appre- ciation must have rushed impetuously to the nearest pen. How warmly, with what grateful love, one thinks of Henry James. How difficult to imagine any one riper in wisdom, in kindliness, in wit; greater of affection; more generous of friendship. And his talk, his wonderful talk even more wonderful than his books. If only he had been a Boswell ! I did ask him one day, in a courageous after-dinner mood, if he wouldn't take me on as his Boswell; a Boswell so deeply devoted that perhaps qualifications for the post would grow through sheer admiration. I told him my coura- geous levity was not greater on that occasion than his patience that I would disguise 38 IN THE MOUNTAINS myself as a man; or, better still, not being quite big enough to make a plausible man and unlikely to grow any more except, it might be hoped, in grace, I would be an elderly boy; that I would rise up early and sit up late and learn shorthand and do anything in the world, if only I might trot about after him taking notes the strange pair we should have made! And the judgment he passed on that reckless suggestion, after considering its impudence with much working about of his extraordinary mobile mouth, delivering his verdict with a weight of pretended self -depreciation intended to crush me speechless which it did for nearly a whole second was: "Dear lady, it would be like the slow squeezing out of a big empty sponge." August 9th. This little wooden house, clinging on to the side of the mountain by its eyelashes, or rather by its eyebrows, for it has enormous eaves to protect it from being smothered in winter in snow, that look exactly like over- hanging eyebrows is so much cramped up for room to stand on that the garden along the edge of the rock isn't much bigger than a handkerchief. IN THE MOUNTAINS 39 It is a strip of grass, tended with devotion by Antoine, whose pride it is that it should be green when all the other grass on the slopes round us up the mountain and down the mountain are parched pale gold; which leads him to spend most of his evening hours watering it. There is a low wall along the edge to keep one from tumbling over, for if one did tumble over it wouldn't be nice for the people walking about in the valley five thousand feet below, and along this wall is the narrow ribbon of the only flowers that will put up with us. They aren't many. There are the del- phiniums, and some pansies and some pinks, and a great many purple irises. The irises were just over when I first got here, but judging from the crowds of flower-stalks they must have been very beautiful. There is only one flower left; exquisite and velvety and sun-warmed to kiss which I do dili- gently, for one must kiss something and with that adorable honey-smell that is the very smell of summer. That's all in the garden. It isn't much, written down, but you should just see it. Oh, yes I forgot. Round the corner, scram- bling up the wall that protects the house in 40 IN THE MOUNTAINS the early spring from avalanches, are crimson ramblers, brilliant against the intense blue of the sky. Crimson ramblers are, I know, ordinary things, but you should just see them. It is the colour of the sky that makes them so astonishing here. Yes and I forgot the lilies that Antoine's maman gave him. They are near the front door, and next to them is a patch of lavender in full flower now, and all day long on each of its spikes is poised miraculously something that looks like a tiny radiant angel, but that flutters up into the sun when I go near and is a white butterfly. Antoine must have put in the lavender. N It used not to be there. But I don't ask him because of what he might tell me it is really for, and I couldn't bear to have that patch of sheer loveliness, with the little shining things hovering over it, explained as a remcde for something horrid. If I could paint I would sit all day and paint; as I can't I try to get down on paper what I see. It gives me pleasure. It is somehow companionable. I wouldn't, I think, do this if I were not alone. I would probably exhaust myself and my friend point- ing out the beauty. The garden, it will be seen, as gardens go, IN THE MOUNTAINS 41 is pathetic in its smallness and want of variety. Possessors of English gardens, with those immense wonderful herbaceous borders and skilfully arranged processions of flowers, might conceivably sniff at it. Let them. I love it. And if it were smaller still, if it were shrunk to a single plant with a single flower on it, it would perhaps only enchant me the more, for then I would concentrate on that one beauty and not be distracted by the feeling that does distract me here, that while I am looking one way I am missing what is going on in other directions. Those beasts in Revelations the ones full of eyes before and behind I wish I had been constructed on liberal principles like that. But one really hardly wants a garden here where God does so much. It is like Italy in that way, and an old wooden box of pansies or a pot of lilies stuck anywhere, in a window, on the end of a wall, is enough composing in- stantly with what is so beautifully there al- ready, the light, the colour, the shapes of the mountains. Really, where God does it all for you just a yard or two arranged in your way is enough; enough to assert your inde- pendence, and to show a proper determina- tion to make something of your own. 42 IN THE MOUNTAINS August Wth. I don't know when it is most beautiful up here in the morning, when the heat lies along the valley in delicate mists, and the folded mountains, one behind the other, grow dimmer and dimmer beyond sight, swooning away through tender gradations of violets and grays, or at night when I look over the edge of the terrace and see the lights in the valley shimmering as though they were reflected in water. I seem to be seeing it now for the first time, with new eyes. I know I used to see it when I was here before, used to feel it and rejoice in it, but it was entangled in other things then, it was only part of the many happinesses with which those days were full, claiming my attention and my thoughts. They claimed them wonderfully and hopefully it is true, but they took me much away from what I can only call for want of a better word (a better word: what a thing to say!) God. Now those hopes and wonders, those other joys and lookings-forward and happy trusts are gone; and the wounds they left, the dread- ful sore places, are slowly going, too. And how I see beauty now is with the new sensi- tiveness, the new astonishment at it, of a per- IN THE MOUNTAINS 43 son who for a long time has been having awful dreams, and one morning wakes up and the delirium is gone, and he lies in a state of the most exquisite glad thankfulness, the most extraordinary minute appreciation of the dear, wonderful common things of life just the sun shining on his counterpane, the scents from the garden coming in through his window, the very smell of the coffee being got ready for breakfast oh, delight, delight to think one didn't die this time, that one isn't going to die this time after all, but is going to get better, going to live, going pres- ently to be quite well again and able to go back to one's friends, to the people who still love one. August ll///. To-day is a saint's day. This is a Catholic part of Switzerland, and they have a great many holidays because they have a great many saints. There is hardly a week without some saint in it who has to be commemorated, and often there are two in the same week, and sometimes three. I know when we have reached another saint, for then the church bells of the nearest village begin to jangle, and go on doing it every two hours. When 44 IN THE MOUNTAINS this happens the peasants leave off work, and the busy, saint-unencumbered Protestants get ahead. Mrs. Antoine was a Catholic before she married, but the sagacious Antoine, who wasn't one, foreseeing days in most of his weeks when she might, if he hadn't been quite kind to her, or rather if she fancied he hadn't been quite kind to her and the fancies of wives, he had heard, were frequent and vivid the sagacious Antoine, foreseeing these numerous holy days ahead of him on any of which Mrs. Antoine might explain as piety what was really pique and decline to cook his dinner, caused her to turn Prot- estant before the wedding. Which she did; conscious, as she told me, that she was getting a bon mari qui valait bien $a; and thus at one stroke Antoine secured his daily dinners throughout the year and rid himself of all his wife's relations. For they, consisting I gather principally of aunts, her father and mother being dead, were naturally displeased and won't know the Antoines; which is, I am told by those who have managed it, the most refreshing thing in the world: to get your relations not to know you. So that not only does he live now in the blessed freedom IN THE MOUNTAINS 45 and dignity that appears to be reserved for those whose relations are angry, but he has no priests about him either. Really Antoine is very intelligent. And he has done other intelligent things while I have been away. For instance: When first I came here, two or three years before the war, I desired to keep the place free from the smells of farmyard. "There shall be no cows," I said. "C'est bicn," said Antoine. "Nor any chickens." "C'est bien," said Antoine. "Neither shall there be any pigs." "C'est bien" said Antoine. " Surtout" I repeated, fancying I saw in his eye a kind of private piggy regret, "pas dc pores."" "C'est bien" said Antoine, the look fading. For most of my life up to then had been greatly infested by pigs; and though they were superior pigs, beautifully kept, housed and fed far better, shameful to relate, than the peasants of that place, on the days when the wind blew from where they were to where we were, clean them and air them as one might there did come blowing over us a great volume of unmistakeable pig. Fclips- 46 IN THE MOUNTAINS ing the lilies. Smothering the roses. Also, on still days we could hear their voices, and the calm of many a summer evening was rent asunder by their squeals. There were an enormous number of little pigs, for in that part of the country it was unfortunately not the custom to eat sucking-pigs, which is such a convenient as well as agreeable way of keeping them quiet, and they squealed atro- ciously; out of sheer high spirits, I suppose, being pampered pigs and having no earthly reason to squeal except for joy. Remembering all this, I determined that up here at any rate we should be pure from pigs. And from cows, too; and from chickens. For did I not also remember things both cows and chickens had done to me? The hopes of a whole year in the garden had often been destroyed by one absent-minded, wandering cow; and though we did miracles with wire-netting and the concealing of wire-netting by creepers, sooner or later a crowd of lustful hens, led by some great bully of a cock, got in and tore up the crocuses just at that early time of the year when, after an endless winter, crocuses seem the most precious and important things in the world. IN THE MOUNTAINS 47 Therefore this place had been kept carefully empty of live-stock, and we bought our eggs and our milk from the peasants, and didn't have any sausages, and the iris bulbs were not scratched up, and the air had nothing in it but smells of honey and hay in summer, and nothing in winter but the ineffable pure cold smell of what, again for want of a better word, I can only describe as God. But then the war came, and our hurried return to England; and instead of being back as we had thought for Christmas, we didn't come back at all. Year after year went, Christmas after Christmas, and nobody came back. I suppose Antoine began at last to feel as if nobody ever would come back. I can't guess at what moment precisely in those years his thoughts began to put out feelers toward pigs, but he did at last consider it proper to regard my pre-war instructions as finally out of date, and gathered a suitable selection of live-stock about him. I expect he got to this stage fairly early, for having acquired a nice, round little wife he was determined, being a wise man, to keep her so. And having also an absentee patronc that is the word that locally means me absent, and therefore not able to be disturbed by 48 IN THE MOUNTAINS live-stock, he would keep her placid by keeping her unconscious. How simple, and how intelligent. In none of his monthly letters did the word pig, cow, or chicken appear. He wrote agreeably of the weather: cetait magnifique, or cetait bien triste, according to the season. He wrote of the French and Belgian sick prisoners of war, interned in those places scattered about the mountains which used to be the haunts of parties catered for by Lunn. He wrote appreciatively of the use- fulness and good conduct of the watch-dog, a splendid creature, much bigger than I am, with the lap-doggy name of Mou-Mou. He lengthily described unexciting objects like the whiskers of the cat: favoris superbes qui poussent toujours, malgre ces jours maigres de guerre; and though sometimes he expressed a little disappointment at the behaviour of Mrs. Antoine's estomac qui lid fait beaucoup d' ennuis et parait mat register aux grands f raids, he always ended up soothingly: Pour la maison tout va bien. Madame pent etre entiercment tranquille. Never a word, you see, about the live- stock. So there in England was Madame being IN THE MOUNTAINS 49 entierement tranquille about her little house, and glad indeed that she could be; for what- ever had happened to it or to the Antoines she wouldn't have been able to do anything. Tethered on the other side of the impassable barrier of war, if the house had caught fire she could only, over there in England, have wrung her hands; and if Mrs. Antoine's estomac had given out so completely that she and Antoine had had to abandon their post and take to the plains and doctors, she could only have sat still and cried. The soothing letters were her comfort for five years madame pent etre entierement tranquille; how sweetly the words fell, month by month, on ears otherwise harassed and tormented! It wasn't till I had been here nearly a fortnight that I began to be aware of my breakfast. Surely it was very nice? Such a lot of milk; and every day a little jug of cream. And surprising butter surprising not only because it was so very fresh but because it was there at all. I had been told in England that there was no butter to be got here, not an ounce to be bought from one end of Switzerland to the other. Well, there it was; fresh every day, and in a singular abundance. 50 IN THE MOUNTAINS Through the somnolence of my mind, of all the outward objects surrounding me I think it was the butter that got in first; and my awakening intelligence, after a period of slow feeling about and some relapses, did at last one morning hit on the conviction that at the other end of that butter was a cow. This, so far, was to be expected as the result of reasoning. But where I began to be pleased with myself, and feel as if Paley's Evidences had married Sherlock Holmes and I was the bright pledge of their loves, was when I proceeded from this, without moving from my chair, to discover by sheer thinking that the cow was very near the butter, because else the butter couldn't possibly be made fresh every day so near that it must be at that moment grazing on the bit of pasture belonging to me; and, if that were so, the conclusion was irresistible that it must be my cow. After that my thoughts leaped about the breakfast table with comparative nimbleness. I remembered that each morning there had been an egg, and that eggy puddings had appeared at the other meals. Before the war it was almost impossible to get eggs up here; clearly, then, I had chickens of my IN THE MOUNTAINS 51 own. And the honey; I felt it would no longer surprise me to discover that I also had bees, for this honey was the real thing not your made-up stuff of the London shops. And strawberries; every morning a great cabbage leaf of strawberries had been on the table, real garden strawberries, over long ago down in the valley and never dreamed of as things worth growing by the peasants in the mountains. Obviously I counted these, too, among my possessions in some corner out of sight. The one object I couldn't proceed to by inductive reasoning from what was on the table was a pig. Antoine's courage had failed him over that. Too definitely must my repeated warning have echoed in his ears: Surtout pas de pores. But how very intelligent he had been. It needs intelligence if one is conscientious to disobey orders at the right moment. And me so unaware all the time, and therefore so unworried ! He passed along the terrace at that moment, a watering-pot in his hand. "Antoine," I said. " Madame," he said, stopping and taking off his cap. "This egg " I said, pointing to the shell, 52 IN THE MOUNTAINS I said it in French, but prefer not to put my French on paper. "Ah madame a vu les ponies." "This butter- "Ah madame a visile la vache." "The pig ?" I hesitated. "Is there is there also a pig?" "Si madame veut descendre a la cave 'You never keep a pig in the cellar?" exclaimed. "Comme jambon," said Antoine calm, per- fect of manner, without a trace of emotion. And there sure enough I was presently proudly shown by Mrs. Antoine, whose feelings are less invisible than her husband's, hanging from the cellar ceiling on hooks that which had once been pig. Several pigs; though she talked as if there had never been more than one. It may be so, of course, but if it is so it must have had a great many legs. " Un pore centipede," I remarked, thought- fully, gazing upward at the forest of hams. Over the thin ice of this comment she slid, however, in a voluble description of how when the armistice was signed she and Antoine had instantly fallen upon and slain the pig- pig still in the singular expecting Madame's arrival after that felicitous event at any IN THE MOUNTAINS 53 minute, and comprehending that un pore vivant pourrait der anger madame, mais que mort il ne fait rien a personne que du plaisir. And she, too, gazed upward, but with affection and pride. There remained then nothing to do but round off these various transactions by a graceful and grateful paying for them. Which I did to-day, Antoine presenting the bills, accompanied by complicated calcula- tions and deductions of the market price of the milk and butter and eggs he and Mrs. Antoine would otherwise have consumed during the past years. I didn't look too closely into what the pig had cost his price, as my eye skimmed over it was obviously the price of something plural; but my eye only skimmed, it didn't dwell. Always Antoine and I have behaved to each other like gentlemen. August IQth. I wonder why I write all this. Is it because it is so like talking to a friend at the end of the day, and telling him, who is interested and loves to hear, everything one has done? I suppose it is that; and that I want, besides, to pin down these queer days as they 54 IN THE MOUNTAINS pass days so utterly unlike any I ever had before. I want to hold them a minute in my hand and look at them before letting them drop away for ever. Then, perhaps, in lots of years, when I have half forgotten what brought me up here and don't mind a bit about anything except to laugh to laugh with the tenderness of a wise old thing at the misunderstandings and mistakes and failures that brought me so near shipwreck, and yet underneath were still somehow packed with love I'll open this and read it, and I daresay quote that Psalm about going through the vale of misery and using it as a well, and be quite pleasantly entertained. August 13th. If one sets one's face westward and goes on and on along the side of the mountain, refusing either to climb higher or go lower, and having therefore to take things as they come and somehow get through roaring torrents, sudden ravines, huge trees blown down in a forgotten blizzard and lying right across one's way; all the things that moun- tains have up their sleeve waiting for one- one comes, after two hours of walk so varied as to include scowling rocks and gloomy IN THE MOUNTAINS 55 forests, bright stretches of delicious grass full of flowers, bits of hayfield, clusters of fruit-trees, wide, sun-flooded spaces with nothing between one apparently and the great snowy mountains, narrow paths where it is hardly light enough to see, smells of resin and hot fir needles, smells of traveller's joy, smells of just cut grass, smells of just sawn wood, smells of water tumbling over stones, muddy smells where the peasants have turned some of the torrent away through shallow channels into their fields, honey smells, hot smells, cold smells after two hours of this walking, which would be tiring because of the constant difficulty of the ground if it weren't for the odd way the air has here of carrying you, of making you feel as though you were being lifted along, one comes at last to the edge of a steep slope where there is a little group of larches. Then one sits down. These larches are at the very end of a long tongue into which the mountain one started on has somehow separated, and it is under them that one eats one's dinner of hard- boiled egg and bread and butter and sits staring, while one does so, in much astonish- ment at the view. For it is an incrediblv 56 IN THE MOUNTAINS beautiful view from here, of an entirely different range of mountains from the one seen from my terrace; and the valley, with its twisting, tiny silver thread that I know is a great rushing river, has strange, abrupt, isolated hills scattered over it that appear each to have a light and colour of its own, with no relation to the light and colour of the mountains. When first I happened on this place the building of my house had already been started, and it was too late to run to the architect and say: Here and here only will I live. But I did for a wild moment, so great was the beauty I had found, hope that perhaps Swiss houses might be like those Norwegian ones one reads about that take to pieces and can be put up again somewhere else when you've got bored, and I remember scrambling back hastily in heat and excite- ment to ask him whether this were so. He said it wasn't, and seemed even a little ruffled, if so calm a man were capable of ruffling, that I should suppose he would build anything that could come undone. 'This house," he said, pointing at the hopeless-looking mass that ultimately be- came so adorable, "is built for posterity. It IN THE MOUNTAINS 57 is on a rock, and will partake of the same immovability." And when I told him of the place I had found, the exquisite place, more beautiful than a dream and a hundred times more beautiful than the place we had started building on, he, being a native of the district, hardy on his legs on Sundays and accordingly acquainted with every inch of ground within twenty miles, told me that it was so remote from villages, so inaccessible by any road, that it was suited as a habitation only to goats. "Only goats," he said with finality, waving his hand, "could dwell there, and for goats I do not build." So that my excitement cooled down before the inevitable, and I have lived to be very glad the house is where it is and not where, for a few wild hours, I wanted it; for now I can go to the other when I am in a beauty mood and see it every time with fresh wonder, while if I lived there I would have got used to it long ago, and my ardour been, like other ardours, turned by possession into compla- cency. Or, to put it a little differently, the house here is like an amiable wife to whom it is comfortable to come back for meals and 58 IN THE MOUNTAINS sleeping purposes, and the other is a secret love, to be visited only on the crest of an ecstasy. To-day I took a hard-boiled egg and some bread and butter and visited my secret love. The hard-boiled egg doesn't seem much like an ecstasy, but it is a very good foundation for one. There is great virtue in a hard- boiled egg. It holds one down, yet not too heavily. It satisfies without inflaming. Sometimes, after days of living on fruit and bread, a slice of underdone meat put in a sandwich and eaten before I knew what I was doing, has gone straight to my head in exactly the way wine would, and I have seen the mountains double, and treble themselves, besides not keeping still, in a very surprising and distressing way, utterly ruinous to rap- tures. So now I distrust sandwiches and will not take them; and all that goes with me is the hard-boiled egg. Oh, and apricots, when I can get them. I forgot the apricots. I took a handful to-day, big, beautiful rosy- golden ones, grow 7 n in the hot villages of the valley, a very apricotty place. And that every part of me should have sustenance I also took Law's "Serious Call." He went because he's the thinnest book I've IN THE MOUNTAINS 59 got on my shelves that has at the same time been praised by Dr. Johnson. I've got several others that Dr. Johnson has praised, such as Ogden on "Prayer," but their bulk, even if their insides were attractive, makes them have to stay at home. Johnson, I remembered, as I weighed Law thoughtfully in my hand and felt how thin he was, said of the "Serious Call" that he took it up expecting it to be a dull book, and perhaps to laugh at it "But I found Law quite an overmatch for me." He certainly would be an over- match for me, I knew r , should I try to stand up to him, but that was not my intention. What I wanted was a slender book that yet would have enough entertainment in it to nourish me all day, and opening the "Serious Call" I was caught at once by the story of Octavius, a learned and ingenious man who, feeling that he wasn't going to live much longer, told the friends hanging on his lips attentive to the wisdom that would, they were sure, drop out, that in the decay of nature in which he found himself he had left off all taverns and was now going to be nice in what lie drank, so that he was resolved to furnish his cellar with a little of the very best what- ever it might cost. And hardly had he 60 IN THE MOUNTAINS delivered himself of this declaration than "he fell ill, was committed to a nurse, and had his eyes closed by her before his fresh parcel of wine came in." The effect of this on someone called Eugenius was to send him home a new man, full of resolutions to devote himself wholly to God; for" I never," says Eugenius, "was so deeply affected with the wisdom and import- ance of religion as when I saw how poorly and meanly the learned Octavius was to leave the world through the want of it." So Law went with me, and his vivacious pages the story of Octavius is but one of many; there is Matilda and her unhappy daughters ("The eldest daughter lived as long as she could under this discipline," but found she couldn't after her twentieth year and died, "her entrails much hurt by being crushed together with her stays"); Eusebia and her happy daughters, who were so beauti- fully brought up that they had the satisfaction of dying virgins; Lepidus, struck down as he was dressing himself for a feast; the admir- able Miranda, whose meals were carefully kept down to exactly enough to give her proper strength to lift eyes and hands to heaven, so that "Miranda will never have her IN THE MOUNTAINS 61 eyes swell with fatness or pant under a heavy load of flesh until she has changed her reli- gion"; Mundamus, who if he saw a book of devotion passed it by; Classicus, who openly and shamelessly preferred learning to devo- tion these vivacious pages greatly enlivened and adorned my day. But I did feel as I came home at the end of it that Dr. Johnson, for whom no one has more love and less respect than I, ought to have spent some at least of his earlier years, when he was still accessible to reason, with, say, Voltaire. Now I am going to bed, footsore but glad, for this picnic to-day was a test. I wanted to see how far on I have got in facing memo- ries. When I set out I pretended to myself that I was going from sheer considerateness for servants, because I wished Mrs. Antoine to have a holiday from cooking my dinner, but I knew in my heart that I was making, in trepidation and secret doubt, a test. For the way to this place of larches bristles with happy memories. They would be sitting waiting for me, I knew, at every bush and corner in radiant rows. If only they wouldn't be radiant, I thought, I wouldn't mind. The way, I thought, would have been easier 62 IN THE MOUNTAINS if it had been punctuated with remembered quarrels. Only then I wouldn't have gone to it at all, for my spirit shudders away from places where there has been unkindness. It is the happy record of this little house that never yet have its walls heard an unkind word or a rude word, and not once has anybody cried in it. All the houses I have lived in except this had their sorrows, and one at least had worse things than sorrows; but this one, my little house of peace hung up in the sunshine well on the way to heaven, is completely free from stains nothing has ever lived in it that wasn't kind. And I shall not count the wretchedness I dragged up with me three weeks ago as a break in this record, as a smudge on its serenity, but only as a shadow passing across the sun. Because, however beaten down I was and miserable, I brought no anger with me and no resent- ment. Unkindness has still not come into the house. Now I am going very happy to bed, for I have passed the test. The whole of the walk to the larches, and the whole of the way back, and all the time I was sitting there, what I felt was simply gratitude gratitude for the beautiful past times I have had. I found I IN THE MOUNTAINS 63 couldn't help it. It was as natural as breathing. I wasn't lonely. Everybody I have loved and shall never see again was with me. And all day, the whole of the wonderful day of beauty, I was able in that bright companionship to forget the imme- diate grief, the aching wretchedness, that brought me up here to my mountains as a last hope. August 14>th. To-day it is my birthday, so I thought I would expiate it by doing some useful work. It is the first birthday I've ever been alone, with nobody to say Bless you. I like being blessed on my birthday, seen off into my new year with encouragement and smiles. Per- haps, I thought, while I dressed, Antoine would remember. After all, I used to have birthdays when I was here before, and he must have noticed the ripple of excitement that lay along the day, how it was wreathed in flowers from breakfast-time on and dotted thick with presents. Perhaps he would re- member and wish me luck. Perhaps if he remembered he would tell his wife, and she would wish me luck, too. I did very much long to-day to be wished luck. 64 IN THE MOUNTAINS But Antoine, if he had ever known, had obviously forgotten. He was doing some- thing to the irises when I came down, and though I went out and lingered round him before beginning breakfast he took no notice; he just went on with the irises. So I daresay I looked a little wry, for I did feel rather afraid I might be going to be lonely. This, then, I thought, giving myself a hitch of determination, was the moment for manual labour. As I drank nay coffee I decided to celebrate the day by giving both the Antoines a holiday and doing the work myself. Why shouldn't my birthday be celebrated by somebody else having a good time? What did it after all matter who had the good time so long as somebody did? The Antoines should have a holiday, and I would work. So would I defend my thoughts from memories that might bite. So would I, by the easy path of perspiration, find peace. Antoine, however, didn't seem to want a holiday. I had difficulty with him. He wasn't of course surprised when I told him he had got one, because he never is, but he said, with that level intonation that gives his conversation so noticeable a calm, that it was the day for cutting the lawn. IN THE MOUNTAINS 65 I said I would cut the lawn; I knew about lawns; I had been brought up entirely on lawns I believe I told him I had been born on one, in my eagerness to forestall his objec- tions and get him to go. He said that such work would be too hot for Madame in the sort of weather we were having; and I said that no work on an object so small as our lawn could be too hot. Besides, I liked being hot, I explained again with eagerness I wanted to be hot, I was happy when I w r as hot. "J'aime beau- coup,"" I said, not stopping in my hurry to pick my words, and anyhow imperfect in French, "La sueur." I believe I ought to have said la tran- spiration, the other word being held in slight if any esteem as a word for ladies, but I still more believe that I oughtn't to have said any- thing about it at all. I don't know, of course, because of Antoine's immobility of expres- sion; but in spite of this not varying at what I had said by the least shadow of a flicker I yet somehow felt, it was yet somehow con- veyed to me, that perhaps in French one doesn't perspire, or if one does one doesn't talk about it. Not if one is a lady. Not if one is Madame. Not, to ascend still further the 66 IN THE MOUNTAINS scale of my self-respect enforcing attributes, if one is that dignified object the patrone. I find it difficult to be dignified. When I try, I overdo it. Always my dignity is either over or under done, but its chief condition is that of being under done. Antoine, however, very kindly helps me up to the position he has decided I ought to fill, by his own un- alterable calm. I have never seen him smile. I don't believe he could without cracking, of so unruffled a glassiness is his countenance. Once, before the war everything I have done that has been cheerful and undesirable was before the war; I've been nothing but exemplary and wretched since I was un- dignified. We dressed up; and on the advice of my friends I now see that it was bad advice I allowed myself to be dressed as a devil; I, the patrone; I, Madame. It was true I was only a little devil, quite one of the minor ones, what the Germans would call a Hausteufelchen; but a devil I was. And going upstairs again unexpectedly, to fetch my tail which had been forgotten, I saw at the very end of the long passage down which I had to go Antoine collecting the day's boots. He stood aside and waited. I couldn't IN THE MOUNTAINS 67 go back, because that would have looked as though I were doing something I knew I oughtn't to. Therefore I proceeded. The passage was long and well lit. Down the whole of it I had to go, while Antoine at the end stood and waited. I tried to advance with dignity. I tried to hope he wouldn't recognize me. I tried to feel sure he wouldn't. How could he? I was quite black, except for a wig that looked like orange-coloured flames. But when I got to the doors at the end it was the one to my bedroom that Antoine threw open, and past him I had to march while he stood gravely aside. And strangely enough, what I remember feeling most acutely was a quite particular humili- ation and shame that I hadn't got my tail on. " C'est que fai oublie ma queue . . ." I found myself stammering, with a look of agonized deprecation and apology at him. And even then Antoine wasn't surprised. Well, where was I? Oh, yes at the transpiration. Antoine let it pass over him, as I have said, without a ruffle, and drew my attention to the chickens who would have to be fed and the cow who would have to be milked. Perhaps the cow might be milked on his return, but the chickens 68 IN THE MOUNTAINS Antoine was softening. I said quickly that all he had to do would be to put the chickens' food ready and I would administer it, and as for the cow, why not let her have a rest for once, why not let her for once not be robbed of what was after all her own? And to cut the conversation short, and determined that my birthday should not pass without somebody getting a present, I ran upstairs and fetched down a twenty -franc note and pressed it into Antoine's hand and said breathlessly in a long and voluble sentence that began with Voila, but didn't keep it up at that high level, that the twenty francs were for his expenses for himself and Mrs. Antoine down in the valley, and that I hoped they would enjoy themselves, and would he remember me very kindly to his maman, to whom he would no doubt pay a little visit during the course of what I trusted would be a long, crowded, and agreeable day. They went off ultimately, but with reluct- ance. Completely undignified, I stood on the low wall of the terrace and waved to them as they turned the corner at the bottom of the path. " Mille felicitations /" I cried, anxious that IN THE MOUNTAINS C9 somebody should be wished happiness on my birthday. "If I am going to have a lonely birthday it shall be thoroughly lonely," I said grimly to myself as, urged entirely by my volition, the Antoines disappeared and left me to the solitary house. I decided to begin my day's work by mak- ing my bed, and went upstairs full of resolu- tion. Mrs. Antoine, however, had done that; no doubt while I was arguing with Antoine. The next thing, then, I reflected, was to tidy away breakfast, so I came downstairs again, full of more resolution. Mrs. Antoine, however, had done that, too; no doubt while I was still arguing with Antoine. Well, then, oughtn't I to begin to do some- thing with potatoes? With a view to the dinner-hour? Put them on, or something? I was sure the putting on of potatoes would make me perspire. I longed to start my transpiration in case by any chance, if I stayed too long inactive and cool, I should notice how very silent and empty I hurried into the kitchen, a dear little place of white tiles and copper saucepans, 70 IN THE MOUNTAINS and found pots simmering gently on the stove: potatoes in one, and in the other bits of something that well might be chicken. Also, on a tray was the rest of everything needed for my dinner. All I would have to do would be to eat it. Baulked, but still full of resolution, I set out in search of the lawn-mower. It couldn't be far away, because nothing is able to be anything but close on my narrow ledge of rock. Mou-Mou, sitting on his haunches in the shade at the back of the house, watched me with interest as I tried to open the sorts of outside doors that looked as if they shut in lawn-mowers. They were all locked. The magnificent Mou-Mou, who manages to imitate Antoine's trick of not being surprised, though he hasn't yet quite caught his air of absence of curiosity, got up after the first door and lounged after me as I tried the others. He could do this because, though tied up, Antoine has ingeniously provided for his exercise, and at the same time for the circumvention of burglars, by fixing an iron bar the whole length of the wall behind the house and fastening Mou-Mou's 71 chain to it by a loose ring. So that he can run along it whenever he feels inclined; and a burglar, having noted the kennel at the east end of this wall and Mou-Mou sitting chained up in front of it, would find, on preparing to attack the house at its west and apparently dogless end, that the dog was nevertheless there before him. A rattle and a slide, and there would be Mou-Mou. Very moroZe-shaking. Very freezing in its unexpectedness to the burglar's blood, and paralyzing to his will to sin. Thus Antoine, thinking of everything, had calculated. There hasn't ever been a burglar, but, as he said of his possible suppurating wounds "// ne faut pas attendre quon les a pour se procurer le reniede" Mou-Mou accordingly came with me as I went up and down the back of the house trying the range of outside doors. I think he thought at last it was a game, for as each door wouldn't open and I paused a moment thwarted, he gave a loud double bark, as one who should in the Psalms after each verse say Selah. Antoine had locked up the lawn-mower. The mowing was to be put oft' till to-morrow rather than that Madame in the heat should 72 mow. I appreciated the kindness of his in- tentions, but for all that was much vexed by being baulked. On my birthday, too. Baulked of the one thing I really wanted, la transpiration. It didn't seem much to ask on my birthday, I who used without so much as lifting a finger to acquire on such occasions quite other beads. Undecided, I stood looking round the tidy yard for something I could be active over, and Mou-Mou sat upright on his huge haunches watching me. He is so big that in this position our heads are on a level. He took advantage of this by presently raising his tongue it was already out, hang- ing in the heat as I still didn't move or say anything, and giving my face an enormous lick. So then I went away, for I didn't like that. Besides, I had thought of something. In the flower-border along the terrace would be weeds. Flower-borders always have weeds, and weeding is arduous. Also, all one wants for weeding are one's own ten fingers, and Antoine couldn't prevent my using those. So that was what I would do- bend down and tear up weeds, and in this way forget the extraordinary sunlit, gaping, empty little house. IN THE MOUNTAINS 73 So great, however, had been the unflagging diligence of Antoine, and also perhaps so poor and barren the soil, that after half an hour's search I had only found three weeds, and even those I couldn't be sure about and didn't know for certain but what I might be pulling up some precious bit of alpine flora put in on purpose and cherished by Antoine. All I really knew was that what I tore up wasn't irises, and wasn't delphiniums, and wasn't pansies; so that, I argued, it must be weeds. Anyhow, I pulled three alien objects out and laid them in a neat row to show Antoine. Then I sat down and rested. The search for them had made me hot, but that of course wouldn't last. It was ages before I need go and feed the chickens. I sat on the terrace wall wondering what I could do next. It was a pity that the Antoines were so admirable. One could overdo virtue. A little less zeal, the least judicious neglect on their part, and I would have found something useful to do. The place was quite extraordinarily silent. There wasn't a sound. Even Mou-Mou round at the back, languid in the heat, didn't move. The immense light beat on the varnished wooden face of the house arid on 74 the shut shutters of all the unused rooms. Those rooms have been shut like that for five years. The shutters are blistered with the fierce sun of five summers and the no less fierce sun of five winters. Their colour, once a lively, swaggering blue, has faded to a dull gray. I sat staring up at them. Sup- pose they were suddenly to be opened from inside, and faces that used to live in them looked out? A faint shudder trickled along my spine. Well, but wouldn't I be glad really? Wouldn't they be the dearest ghosts? That room at the end, for instance, so tightly shut up now, that was where my brother used to sleep when he came out for his holidays. Wouldn't I love to see him look out at me? How gaily he used to arrive in such spirits because he had got rid of work for a bit, and for a series of divine weeks was going to stretch himself in the sun ! The first thing he always did when he got up to his room was to hurry out on to its little balcony to see if the heav- enly view of the valley toward the east with the chain of snow mountains across the end were still as heavenly as he remembered it; and I could see him with his head thrown back, breathing deep breaths of the lovely air, IN THE MOUNTAINS 75 adoring it, radiant with delight to have got back to it, calling down to me to come quick and look, for it could never have been so beautiful as at that moment and could never possibly be so beautiful again. I loved him very much. I don't believe any- body ever had so dear a brother. He was so quick to appreciate and understand, so slow to anger, so clear of brain and gentle of heart. Of course he was killed. Such people always are if there is any killing going on anywhere. He volunteered at the very beginning of the war, and though his fragility saved him for a long time he was at last swept in. That was in March, 1918. He was killed the first week. I loved him very much, and he loved me. He called me sweet names, and forgave me all my trespasses. And in the next room to that oh, well, I'm not going to dig out every ghost. I can't really write about some of them, the pain hurts too much. I've not been into any of the shut rooms since I came back. I couldn't bear it. Here out of doors I can take a larger view, not mind going to the places of memo- ries; but I know those rooms will have been kept as carefully unchanged by Antoine as I found mine. I daren't even think of them. 76 IN THE MOUNTAINS I had to get up off the wall and come away from staring up at those shutters, for suddenly I found myself right on the very edge of the dreadful pit I'm always so afraid of tumbling into the great, black, cold, empty pit of horror, of realization. That's why I've been writing all this, just so as not to think. . . . Bedtime. I must put down what happened after that. I ought to be in bed, but I must put down how my birthday ended. Well, there I was sitting, trying by writing to defend myself against the creeping fear of the silence round me and the awareness of those shut rooms upstairs, when Mou-Mou barked. He barked suddenly and furiously; and the long screech of his chain showed that he was rushing along the wall to the other side of the house. Instantly my thoughts became wholesome. I jumped up. Here was the burglar at last. I flew round to greet him. Anything was better than those shutters and that hot, sunlit silence. Between my departure from the terrace and my arrival at the other side of the house I had had time, so quickly did IN THE MOUNTAINS 77 my restored mind work, to settle that who- ever it was, burglar or not, I was going to make friends. If it really were a burglar I would adopt the line the bishop took toward Jean Valjean and save him from the sin of theft by making him a present of everything he wished to take conduct which perhaps might save me as well, supposing he was the kind of burglar who would want to strangle opposition. Also, burglar or no burglar, I would ask him to dinner; compel him, in fact, to come in and share my birthday chicken. What I saw when I got round, standing just out of reach of the leaping Mou-Mou on the top of the avalanche wall, looking down at him with patience rather than timidity, holding their black skirts back in case an extra leap of his should reach them, were two women. Strangers, not natives. Perhaps widows. But anyhow people who had been bereaved. I immediately begged them to come in. The relief and refreshment of seeing them! Two human beings of obvious respectability, warm flesh and blood persons, not burglars, not ghosts, not even of the sex one associates with depredation just decent, alive women, 78 IN THE MOUNTAINS complete in every detail, even to each carrying an umbrella. They might have been stand- ing on the curb in Oxford Street waiting to hail an omnibus, so complete were they, so prepared in their clothes to face the world. Button boots, umbrella I hadn't seen an umbrella since I got here. What you usually take for a walk on the mountains is a stout stick with an iron point to it; but, after all, why shouldn't you take an umbrella? Then if it rains you can put it up, and if the sun is unbearable you can put it up, too, and it, too, has a metal tip to it which you can dig into the ground if you begin to slide down precipices. "Bon jour," I said, eagerly, looking up at these black silhouettes against the sky. " Je vous prie de venir me voir." They stared at me, still holding back their skirts from the leaping dog. Perhaps they were Italians. I am close to Italy, and Italian women usually dress in black. I know some Italian words, and I know the one you say when you want somebody to come in, so I tried that. " Avanti" I said, breatnlessly. They didn't. They still just stood and stared. IN THE MOUNTAINS 79 They couldn't be English I thought because underneath their black skirts I could see white cotton petticoats with embroidery on them, the kind that England has shed these fifty years, and that is only now to be found in remote and religious parts of abroad, like the more fervent portions of Luthern Germany. Could they be Germans? The thought distracted me. How could I ask two Ger- mans in? How could I sit at meat with people whose male relations had so recently been killing mine? Or been killed by them, perhaps, judging from their black clothes. Anyhow there was blood between us. But how could I resist asking them in, when if I didn't there would be hours and hours of intolerable silence and solitude for me till evening brought those Antoines back who never ought to have been let go? On my birthday, too. I know some German words it is wonderful what a lot of languages I seem to know some words in so I threw one up at them between two of Mou-^\Iou's barks. "Deutsch?" I inquired. They ignored it. 'That's all my languages," I then said in despair. 80 IN THE MOUNTAINS The only thing left that I might still try on them was to talk on my fingers, which I can a little; but if they didn't happen, I reflected, to be deaf and dumb perhaps they wouldn't like that. So I just looked up at them despairingly, and spread out my hands and drew my shoulders to my ears as Mrs. Antoine does when she is conveying to me that the butter has come to an end. Whereupon the elder of the two neither was young, but one was less young the elder of the two informed me in calm English that they had lost their way, and she asked me to direct them and also to tell the dog not to make quite so much noise, in order that they might clearly understand what I said. "He is a fine fellow," she said, "but we should be glad if he would make less noise." The younger one said nothing, but smiled at me. She was pleasant-looking, this one, flushed and nicely moist from walking in the heat. The other one was more rocky; considering the weather, and the angle of the slope they had either come up or down, she seemed quite unnaturally arid. I seized Mou-Mou by the collar, and ran him along to his kennel. "You stay there and be good," I said to IN THE MOUNTAINS 81 him, though I know he doesn't understand a word of English. "He won't hurt you," I assured the strangers, going back to them. "Ah," said the elder of the two; and added, "I used to say that to people about my dog." They still stood motionless, holding their skirts, the younger one smiling at me. "Won't you come do\vn?" I said. "Come in and rest a little? I can tell you better about your road if you'll come in. Look you go along that path there, and it brings you round to the front door." "Will the dog be at the front door?" asked the elder. "Oh, no besides, he wouldn't hurt a fly." "Ah," said the elder, eyeing Mou-Mou sideways, who, from his kennel, eyed her, "I used to say that to people about my dog." The younger one stood smiling at me. They neither of them moved. "I'll come up and bring you down," I said, hurrying round to the path that leads from the terrace on to the slope. When they saw that this path did indeed take them away from Mou-Mou they came with me. Directly they moved he made a rush along 82 IN THE MOUNTAINS his bar, but arrived too late and could only leap up and down barking. "That's just high spirits," I said. "He is really most good-natured and affectionate." "Ah," said the elder, "I used to say that to people "Mind those loose stones," I interrupted; and I helped each one down the last crumbly bit on to the terrace. They both had black kid gloves on. More than ever, as I felt these warm gloves press my hand, was I sure that what they really wanted was an omnibus along Oxford Street. Once on the level and out of sight of Mou- Mou, they walked with an air of self-respect. Especially the elder. The younger, though she had it, too, seemed rather to be following an example than originating an attitude. Perhaps they w T ere related to a Lord Mayor, I thought. Or a rector. But a Lord Mayor would l)e more likely to be the cause of that air of glowing private background to life. They had been up the mountain, the elder told me, trying to find somewhere cool to stay in, for the valley this weather was un- endurable. They used to know this district years ago, and recollected a pension right up IN THE MOUNTAINS 83 in the highest village, and after great exertions and rising early that morning they had reached it only to find that it had become a resort for consumptives. With no pro- vision for the needs of the passing tourist; with no desire, in fact, in any way to minister to them. If it hadn't been for me, she said, as they sat on the cool side of the house drinking lemonade and eating biscuits, if it hadn't been for me and what she described with obvious gratitude she couldn't guess mv Jy a t seeing them both! as my kind- ness, they would have had somehow to clamber down foodless by wrong roads, seeing that they had lost the right one, to the valley again, and in what state they would have reentered that scorching and terrible place she didn't like to think. Tired as they were. Disappointed, and distressingly hot. How very pleasant it was up here. What a truly delightful spot. Such air. Such a view. And how agreeable and unexpected to come across one of one's own country- women. To all this the younger in silence smiled agreement. They had been so long abroad, continued the elder, that they felt greatly fatigued by 84 IN THE MOUNTAINS foreigners, who were so very prevalent. In their pension there were nothing but foreigners and flies. The house wasn't by any chance no, of course it couldn't be, but it wasn't by any chance her voice had a sudden note of hope in it a pension? I shook my head and laughed at that, and said it wasn't. The younger one smiled at me. Ah, no of course not, continued the elder, her voice fading again. And she didn't suppose I could tell them of any pension anywhere about, where they could get taken in while this great heat lasted? Really the valley was most terribly airless. The best hotel, which had, she knew, some cool rooms, was beyond their means, so they were staying in one of the small ones, and the flies worried them. Apparently I had no flies up here. And what wonderful air. At night, no doubt, it was quite cool. The nights in the valley were most trying. It was difficult to sleep. I asked them to stay to lunch. They accepted gratefully. When I took them to my room to wash their hands they sighed with pleasure at its shadiness and quiet. They thought the inside of the house delightfully roomy, and more spacious, said the elder, while the younger one smiled agreement, IN THE MOUNTAINS 85 than one would have expected from its outside. I left them, sunk with sighs of satisfaction, on the sofa in the hall, their black toques and gloves on a chair beside them, gazing at the view through the open front door while I went to see how the pota- toes were getting on. We lunched presently in the shade just outside the house, and the strange ladies continued to be most grateful, the elder voicing their gratitude, the younger smiling agreement. If it was possible to like one more than the other, seeing with what en- thusiasm I liked them both, I liked the younger because she smiled. I love people who smile. It does usually mean sweet pleasantness somewhere. After lunch, while I cleared away, having refused their polite offers of help, for they now realized I was alone in the house, on which, however, though it must have surprised them they made no comment, they went indoors to the sofa again, whose soft cushions seemed particularly attractive to them; and when I came back the last time for the breadcrumbs and tablecloth I found they had both fallen asleep, the elder one with her handkerchief over her face. 86 IN THE MOUNTAINS Poor things. How tired they were. How glad I was that they should be resting and getting cool. A little sleep would do them both good. I crept past them on tiptoe with my final armful, and was careful to move about in the kitchen very quietly. It hadn't been my intention, with guests to lunch, to wash up and put away, but rather to sit with them and talk. Not having talked for so long it seemed a godsend, a particularly welcome birthday present, suddenly to have two Eng- lish people drop in on me from the skies. Up to this moment I had been busy, first getting lemonade to slake their thirst and then lunch to appease their hunger, and the spare time in between these activities had been filled with the expression of their gratitude by the elder and her expatiations on the house and what she called the grounds; but I had looked forward to about an hour's real talk after lunch, before they would begin to want to start on their long downward journey to their pension talk in which, without being specially brilliant any of us, for you only had to look at us to see we wouldn't be specially that, we yet might at least tell each other amusing things about, say, Lord Mayors. IN THE MOUNTAINS 87 It is true I don't know any Lord Mayors, though I do know somebody whose brother married the daughter of one; but if they could produce a Lord Mayor out of up their sleeve, as I suspected, I could counter him with a dean. Not quite so showy, perhaps, but more permanent. And I did want to talk. I have been silent so long that I felt I could talk about almost anything. Well, as they were having a little nap, poor things, I would tidy up the kitchen meanwhile, and by the time that was done they would be refreshed and ready for half an hour's agreeable interchange of gossip. Every now and then during this tidying I peeped into the hall in case they were awake, but they seemed if anything to be sounder asleep each time. The younger one, her flushed face half buried in a cushion, her fair hair a little ruffled, had a pathetic look of almost infantile helplessness; the elder, discreetly veiled by her handkerchief, slept more stiffly, with less abandonment and more determination. Poor things. How glad I was they should in this way gather strength for the long, difficult scramble down the mountain; but also presently I began to wish they would wake up. 88 IN THE MOUNTAINS I finished what I had to do in the kitchen, and came back into the hall. They had been sleeping now nearly half an hour. I stood about uncertainly. Poor things, they must be dreadfully tired to sleep like that. I hardly liked to look at them, they were so defenceless, and I picked up a book and tried to read; but I couldn't stop my eyes from wandering over the top of it to the sofa every few minutes, and always I saw the same picture of profound repose. Presently I put down the book and wan- dered out on to the terrace and gazed awhile at the view. That, too, seemed wrapped in afternoon slumber. After a bit I wandered round the house to Mou-Mou. He, too, w r as asleep. Then I came back to the front door and glanced in at my guests. Still no change. Then I fetched some cigarettes, not moving this time quite so carefully, and going out again sat on the low terrace-wall at a point from which I could see straight on to the sofa and notice any movement that might take place. I never smoke except when bored, and as I am never bored I never smoke. But this afternoon it was just that unmanageable sort of moment come upon me, that kind of situa- IN THE MOUNTAINS 89 tion I don't know how to deal with, which does bore me. I sat om the wall and smoked three cigarettes, and the peace on the sofa remained complete. What ought one to do? What did one do, faced by obstinately sleep- ing guests? Impossible deliberately to wake them up. Yet I was sure they had now been asleep nearly an hour that when they did wake up, polite as they were, they would be upset by discovering that they had slept. Besides, the afternoon was getting on. They had a long way to go. If only Mou-Mou would wake up and bark. . . . But there wasn't a sound. The hot afternoon brooded over the mountains in breathless silence. Again I went round to the back of the house, and pausing behind the last corner so as to make what I did next more alarming, suddenly jumped out at Mou-Mou. The horribly intelligent dog didn't bother to open more than an eye, and that one he immediately shut again. Disgusted with him, I returned to my seat on the wall and smoked another cigarette. The picture on the sofa was the same perfect peace. Oh, well, poor things but I did want to talk. And after all it was my birthday. When I had finished the cigarette I thought 90 IN THE MOUNTAINS a moment, my face in my hands. A person of tact ah, but I have no tact; it has been my undoing on the cardinal occasions of life that I have none. Well, but suppose I were a person of tact what would I do? Instantly the answer flashed into my brain: Knock, by accident, against a table. So I did. I got up quickly and crossed into the hall and knocked against a table, at first with gentleness, and then as there was no result with greater vigour. My elder guest behind the handkerchief continued to draw deep, regular breaths, but to my joy the younger one stirred and opened her eyes. "Oh, I do hope I didn't wake you?" I exclaimed, taking an eager step toward the sofa. She looked at me vaguely, and fell asleep again. I went back on to the terrace and lit another cigarette. That was five. I haven't smoked so much before in one day in my life ever. I felt quite fast. And on my birthday, too. By the time I had finished it there was a look about the shadows on the grass that suggested tea. Even if it were a little early the noise of the teacups might help to wake IN THE MOUNTAINS 91 up my guests, and I felt that a call to tea would be a delicate and hospitable way of doing it. I didn't go through the hall on tiptoe this time, but walked naturally; and I opened the door into the kitchen rather noisily. Then I looked round at the sofa to see the effect. There wasn't any. Presently tea was ready, out on the table where we had lunched. At least six times I had been backward and forward through the hall, the last twice carrying things that rattled and that I encouraged to rattle. But on the sofa the strangers slept peacefully on. There was nothing for it now but to touch them. Short of that, I didn't think that anything would wake them. But I don't like touching guests; I mean, in between whiles. I have never done it. Especially not when they weren't looking. And still more especially not when they were complete strangers. Therefore I approached the sofa with reluctance, and stood uncertain in front of it. Poor things, they really were most com- pletely asleep. It seemed a pity to interrupt. Well, but they had had a nice rest; they had slept soundly now for two hours. And the 9* IN THE MOUNTAINS tea would be cold if I didn't wake them up, and besides, how were they going to get home if they didn't start soon? Still, I don't like touching guests. Especially strange guests. . . . Manifestly, however, there was nothing else to be done, so I bent over the younger one the other one was too awe-inspiring with her handkerchief over her face and gingerly put my hand on her shoulder. Nothing happened. I put it on again, with a slightly increased emphasis. She didn't open her eyes, but to my em- barrassment laid her cheek on it affection- ately and murmured something that sounded astonishingly like Siegfried. I know about Siegfried, because of going to the opera. He was a German. He still is, in the form of Siegfried Wagner, and I daresay of others; and once somebody told me that when Germans wished to indulge their disrespect for the Kaiser freely he was not at that time yet an ex-Kaiser without being run in for Icse majeste, they loudly and openly abused him under the name of Siegfried Meye, whose initials, S. M., also represent Seine Majestat; by which simple IN THE MOUNTAINS 93 methods everybody was able to be pleased and nobody was able to be hurt. So that when my sleeping guest murmured Siegfried, I couldn't but conclude she was dreaming of a German; and when at the same time she laid her cheek on my hand, I was forced to realize that she was dreaming of him affec- tionately. Which astonished me. Imbued with patriotism the accumulated patriotism of weeks spent out of England I felt that this English lady should instantly be roused from a dream that did her no credit. She herself, I felt sure, would be the first to deplore such a dream. So I drew my hand away from beneath her cheek even by mistake I didn't like it to be thought the hand of somebody called Siegfried and, stooping down, said quite loud and distinctly in her ear, "Won't you come to tea?" This, at last, did wake her. She sat up with a start, and looked at me for a moment in surprise. "Oh," she said, confused, "have I been asleep?" "I'm very glad you have," I said, smiling at her, for she was already again smiling at me. 'Your climb this morning was enough to kill you." 94 IN THE MOUNTAINS "Oh, but," she murmured, getting up quickly and straightening her hair, "how dreadful to come to your house and go to sleep And she turned to the elder one, and again astonished me by, with one swift movement, twitching the handkerchief off her face and saying exactly as one says when playing the face-and-handkerchief game with one's baby, "Peep bo." Then she turned back to me and smiled and said nothing more, for I suppose she knew the elder one, roused thus competently, would now do all the talking; as indeed she did, being as I feared greatly upset and horrified when she found she had not only been asleep but been it for two hours. We had tea; and all the while, while the elder one talked of the trouble she was afraid she had given, and the shame she felt that they should have slept, and their gratitude for what she called my prolonged and patient hospitality, I was wondering about the other. Whenever she caught my pensive and in- quiring eye she smiled at me. She had very sweet eyes, gray ones, gentle and intelligent, and when she smiled an agreeable dimple appeared. Bringing my Paley's "Evidences" and Sherlock Holmes' side to bear on her, I IN THE MOUNTAINS 95 reasoned that my younger guest was, or had been, a mother this because of the practised way she had twitched the handkerchief off and said Peep bo; that she was either a widow, or hadn't seen her husband for some time, this because of the real affection with which in her sleep she had laid her cheek on my hand; and that she liked music and often went to the opera. After tea the elder got up stiffly she had walked much too far already, and was clearly unfit to go all that long way more and said, if I would direct them, they must now set out for the valley. The younger one put on her toque obedi- ently at this, and helped the elder one to pin hers on straight. It was now five o'clock, and if they didn't once lose their way they would be at their hotel by half -past seven; in time, said the elder, for the end of table- d'hbte, a meal much interfered with by the very numerous flies. But if they did go wrong at any point it would be much later, probably dark. 1 asked them to stay. To stay? The elder, engaged in buttoning her tight kid gloves, said it was most kind of me, but they couldn't possibly stay any 96 IN THE MOUNTAINS longer. It was far too late already, owing to their so unfortunately having gone to sleep "I mean stay the night," I said; and ex- plained that it would be doing me a kind- ness, and because of that they must please overlook anything in such an invitation that might appear unconventional, for certainly if they did set out I should lie awake all night thinking of them lost somewhere among the precipices, or perhaps fallen over one, and how much better to go down comfortably in daylight, and I could lend them everything they wanted, including a great many new toothbrushes I found here in short, I not only invited, I pressed; growing more eager by the sheer gathering momentum of my speech. All day, while the elder talked and I listened, I had secretly felt uneasy. Here was I, one woman in a house arranged for family gatherings, while they for want of rooms were forced to swelter in the valley. Gradually, as I listened, my uneasiness in- creased. Presently I began to feel guilty. And at last, as I watched them sleeping in such exhaustion on the sofa, I felt at the bottom of my heart somehow responsible. But I don't know, of course, that it is wise to invite strangers to stay with one. IN THE MOUNTAINS 97 They accepted gratefully. The moment the elder understood what it was that my eager words were pressing on her, she drew the pins out of her toque and laid it on the chair again ; and so did the other one, smiling at me. When the Antoines came home I went out to meet them. By that time my guests were shut up in their bedrooms with new toothbrushes. They had gone up very early, both of them so stiff that they could hardly walk. Till they did go up, what moments I had been able to spare from my hasty preparations for their comfort had been filled entirely, as earlier in the day, by the elder one's gratitude; there had still been no chance of real talk. "J'ai des visiles" I said to the Antoines, going out to meet them when, through the silence of the evening, I heard their steps coining up the path. Antoine wasn't surprised. He just said, "C/V/ .srra commc autrcfois" and began to shut the shutters. But I am. I can't go to bed, I'm so much surprised. I've been sitting up here scrib- bling when I ought to have been in bed long ago. Who would have thought that the day that began so emptily would end with two of 98 IN THE MOUNTAINS my rooms full each containing a widow? For they are widows, they told me: widows who have lost their husbands by peaceful methods, nothing to do with the war. Their names are Mrs. Barnes and Mrs. Jewks at least that is what the younger one's sounded like; I don't know if I have spelt it right. They come from Dulwich. I think the elder one had a slight misgiving at the last and seemed to remember what was due to the Lord Mayor when she found herself going to bed in a strange house belonging to somebody of whom she knew nothing; for she remarked a little doubtfully, and with rather a defensive eye fixed on me, that the war had broken down many barriers, and that people did things now that they wouldn't have dreamed of doing five years ago. The other one didn't say anything, but actually kissed me. I hope she wasn't again mistaking me for Siegfried. August 1 5th. My guests have gone again, but only to fetch their things and pay their hotel bill, and then they are coming back to stay with me till it is a little cooler. They are coining back to-morrow, not to-day. They are IN THE MOUNTAINS 99 entangled in some arrangement with their pension that makes it difficult for them to leave at once. Mrs. Barnes appeared at breakfast with any misgivings she may have had last night gone, for when I suggested they should spend this hot weather up here she immediately accepted. I hadn't slept for thinking of them. How could I possibly not ask them to stay, seeing their discomfort and my roominess? Toward morning it was finally clear to me that it wasn't possible: I would ask them. Though, remembering the look in Mrs. Barnes's eye the last thing last night, I couldn't be sure she would accept. She might want to find out about me first, after the cautious and hampering way of women oh, I wish women wouldn't always be so cautious, but simply get on with their friend- ships! She might first want assurances that there was some good reason for my being here all by myself. Alas, there isn't a good reason; there is only a bad one. But fortunately to be alone is generally regarded as respectable, in spite of what Seneca says a philosopher said to a young man he saw walking by himself: "Have a care," said he, "of lewd company." 100 IN THE MOUNTAINS However, I don't suppose Mrs. Barnes knew about Seneca. Anyhow, she didn't hesitate. She accepted at once, and said that under these circumstances it was cer- tainly due to me to tell me a little about themselves. At this I got my dean ready to meet the Lord Mayor, but after all I was told nothing more than that my guests are sisters; for at this point, very soon arrived at, the younger one. Mrs. Jewks, who had slipped away on our getting up from breakfast, reappeared with the toques and gloves, and said she thought they had better start before it got any hotter. v So they went, and the long day here has been most beautiful so peaceful, so quiet, with the delicate mountains like opals against the afternoon sky, and the shadows lengthening along the valley. I don't feel to-day as I did yesterday, that I want to talk. To-day I am content with things exactly as they are: the sun, the silence, the caresses of the funny little white kitten with the smudge of black round its left eye that makes it look as though it must be somebody's wife, and the pleasant knowledge that my new friends are coming back again. IN THE MOUNTAINS 101 I think that knowledge makes to-day more precious. It is the last day for some time, for at least a week judging from the look of the blazing sky, of what I see now that they are ending have been wonderful days. Up the ladder of these days I have climbed slowly away from the blackness at the bottom. It has been like finding some steps under water just as one was drowning, and crawling up them to air and light. But now that I have got at least most of myself back to air and light, and feel hopeful of not slipping down again, it is surely time to arise, shake myself, and begin to do something active and fruitful. And behold, just as I realize this, just as I realize that I am, so to speak, ripe for fruit-bearing, there appear on the scene Mrs. Barnes and Mrs. Jewks, as it were the mid wives of Providence. Well, that shall be to-morrow. Meanwhile there is still to-day, and each one of its quiet hours seems very precious. I wonder what my new friends like to read. Suppose I was going to say suppose it is "The Rosary"; but I won't suppose that, for when it comes to supposing, why not suppose something that isn't "The Rosary?" Why not, for instance, suppose they like "Eminent Victorians," and 102 IN THE MOUNTAINS that we three are going to sit of an evening delicately tickling each other with quotations from it, and gently squirming in our seats for pleasure? It is just as easy to suppose that as to suppose anything else, and as I'm not yet acquainted with these ladies' tastes one supposition is as likely to be right as another. I don't know, though I forgot their petti- coats. I can't believe any friends of Mr. Lytton Strachey wear that kind of petti- coat, eminently Victorian even though it be; and although he wouldn't, of course, have direct ocular proof that they did unless he had stood with me yesterday at the bottom of that wall while they on the top held up their skirts, still what one has on underneath does somehow ooze through into one's be- haviour. I know once, when impelled by a heat wave in America to cast aside the undergarments of a candid mind and buy and put on pink chiffon, the pink chiffon instantly got through all my clothes into my conduct, which became curiously dash- ing. Anybody can tell what a woman has got on underneath by merely watching her behaviour. I have known just the con- sciousness of silk stockings, worn by one IN THE MOUNTAINS 103 accustomed only to wool, produce dictatorial- ness where all before had been submission. August 19th. I haven't written for three days because I have been so busy settling down to my guests. They call each other Kitty and Dolly. They explained that these were inevitably their names because they were born, one fifty, the other forty years ago. I inquired why this was inevitable, and they drew my attention to fashions in names, asserting that people's ages could generally be guessed by their Christian names. If, they said, their birth had taken place ten years earlier they would have been Ethel and Maud; if ten years later they would have been Muriel and Gladys; and if twenty years only ago they had no doubt but what they would have been Elizabeth and Pamela. It is always Mrs. Barnes who talks; but the effect is as though they together were telling me things, because of the way Mrs. Jewks smiles I conclude in agreement. "Our dear parents, both long since dead," said Mrs. Barnes, adjusting her eyeglasses more comfortably on her nose, " didn't seem 104 IN THE MOUNTAINS to remember that we would ever grow old, for we weren't even christened Katherine and Dorothy, to which we might have reverted when we ceased being girls, but we were Kitty and Dolly from the very beginning, and actually in that condition came away from the font." "I like being Dolly," murmured Mrs. Jewks. Mrs. Barnes looked at her with what I thought was a slight uneasiness, and rebuked her. "You shouldn't," she said. "After thirty-nine no w r oman should willingly be Dolly." "I still feel exactly like Dolly," murmured Mrs. Jewks. "It's a misfortune," said Mrs. Barnes, shaking her head. 'To be called Dolly after a certain age is bad enough, but it is far worse to feel like it. What I think of," she said, turning to me, "is when we are really old in bath chairs, unable to walk, and no doubt being spoon fed, yet obliged to con- tinue to be called by these names. It will rob us of dignity." "I don't think I'll mind," murmured Mrs. Jewks. "I shall still feel exactly like Dolly." Mrs. Barnes looked at her, again I thought IN THE MOUNTAINS 105 with uneasiness with, really, an air of rather anxious responsibility. And afterward, when her sister had gone indoors for something, she expounded a theory she said she held, the soundness of which had often been proved to her by events, that names had much influence on behaviour. "Not half as much," I thought (but didn't say), "as underclothes." And indeed I have for years been acquainted with somebody called Trixy, who for steady gloom and heavi- ness of spirit would be hard to equal. Also I know an Isolda; a most respectable married woman, of a sprightly humour and much nimbleness in dodging big emotions. "Dolly," said Mrs. Barnes, "has never, I am sorry to say, shared my opinion. If she had, many things in her life would have been different, for then she would have been on her guard as I have been. I am glad to say there is nothing I have ever done since I ceased to be a child that has been even re- motely compatible with being called Kitty." I said I thought that was a great deal to be able to say. It suggested, I said, quite an unusually blameless past. Through my brain ran for an instant the vision of that devil who, seeking his tail, met Antoine in 106 IN THE MOUNTAINS the passage. I blushed. Fortunately Mrs. Barnes didn't notice. "What did Dol what did Mrs. Jewks do," I said, "that you think was the direct result of her Christian name? Don't tell me if my question is indiscreet, which I daresay it is, because I know I often am, but your theory interests me." Mrs. Barnes hesitated a moment. She was, I think, turning over in her mind whether she \vould give herself the relief of complete unreserve, or continue for a few more days to skim round on the outskirts of confidences. This w r as yesterday. After all, she had only been with me two days. She considered awhile, then decided that two days wasn't long enough, so only said: "My sister is sometimes a little rash or perhaps I should say has been. But the effects of rashness are felt for a long time; usually for the rest of one's life." ; 'Yes," I agreed; and thought ruefully of some of my own. This, however, only made me if anything more inquisitive as to the exact nature and quality of Dolly's resemblance to her name. We all, I suppose (except Mrs. Barnes, who I am sure hasn't), have been rash, and if we IN THE MOUNTAINS 107 could induce ourselves to be frank much innocent amusement might be got by com- paring the results of our rashnesses. But Mrs. Barnes was unable at the moment to induce herself to be frank, and she returned to the sub- ject she has already treated very fully since her arrival, the wonderful bracing air up here and her great and grateful appreciation of it. To-day is Tuesday; and on Saturday even- ing the day they arrived back again, com- plete with their luggage, which came up in a cart round by the endless zigzags of the road while they with their peculiar dauntless- ness took the steep short cuts we had what might be called an exchange of cards. Mrs. Barnes told me what she thought fit for me to know about her late husband, and I responded by telling her and her sister what I thought fit for them to know of my uncle the Dean. There is such a lot of him that is fit to know that it took some time. He was a great convenience. How glad I am I've got him. A dean, after all, is of an impressive respectability as a relation. His apron covers a multitude of family shortcomings. You can hold him up to the light, and turn him round, and view him from every angle, and 108 IN THE MOUNTAINS there is nothing about him that doesn't bear inspection. All my relations aren't like that. One at least, though he denies it, wasn't even born in wedlock. We're not sure about the others, but we're quite sure about this one, that he wasn't born altogether as he ought to have been. Except for his obstinacy in denial he is a very attractive person. My uncle can't be got to see that he exists. This makes him not able to like my uncle. I didn't go beyond the Dean on Saturday night, for he had a most satisfying effect on my new friends. Mrs. Barnes evidently thinks highly of deans, and Mrs. Jewks, though she said nothing, smiled very pleas- antly while I held him up to view. No Lord Mayor was produced on their side. I begin to think there isn't one. I begin to think their self-respect is simply due to the consciousness that they are British. Not that Mrs. Jewks says anything about it, but she smiles while Mrs. Barnes talks on immensely patriotic lines. I gather they haven't been in England for some time, so that naturally their affection for their country has been fanned into a great glow. I know all about that sort of glow. I have had it each time I've been out of England. IN THE MOUNTAINS 109 August 20th. Mrs. Barnes elaborated the story of him she speaks of always as Mr. Barnes to- day. He was, she said, a business man, and went to the city every day, where he did things with hides: dried skins, I understood, that he bought and resold. And though Mr. Barnes drew 7 his sustenance from these hides with what seemed to Mrs. Barnes great ease and abundance while he was alive, after his death it was found that, through no fault of his own but rather, she suggested, to his credit, he had for some time past been living on his capital. This capital came to an end almost simultaneously with Mr. Barnes, and all that was left for Mrs. Barnes to live on was the house at Dulwich, handsomely furnished, it was true, with everything of the best; for Mr. Barnes had disliked what Mrs. Barnes called fandangles, and was all for mahogany and keeping a good table. But you can't live on mahogany, said Mrs. Barnes, nor keep a good table with nothing to keep it on, so she wished to sell the house and retire into obscurity on the pro- ceeds. Her brother-in-law, however, sug- gested paying guests; so would she be able to 110 IN THE MOUNTAINS continue in her home, even if on a slightly different basis. Many people at that period were beginning to take in paying guests. She would not, he thought, lose caste. Es- pecially if she restricted herself to real gentle- folk, who wouldn't allow her to feel her position. It was a little difficult at first, but she got used to it and was doing very well when the war broke out. Then, of course, she had to stand by Dolly. So she gave up her house and guests, and her means were now very small; for somehow, remarked Mrs. Barnes, directly one wants to sell nobody seems to want to buy, and she had had to let her beautiful house go for very little "But why I interrupted; and pulled myself up. I was just going to ask why Dolly hadn't gone to Mrs. Barnes and helped with the paying guests, instead of Mrs. Barnes giving them up and going to Dolly; but I stopped because I thought perhaps such a question, seeing that they quite remarkably refrain from asking me questions, might have been a little indiscreet at our present stage of intimacy. No, I can't call it intimacy- friendship, then. No, I can't call it friend- IN THE MOUNTAINS 111 ship either, yet; the only word at present is acquaintanceship. August The conduct of my guests is so extraor- dinarily discreet, their careful avoidance of curiosity, of questions, is so remarkable, that I can but try to imitate. They haven't asked me a single thing. I positively thrust the Dean on them. They make no comment on anything, either, except the situation and the view. We seem to talk if not only certainly chiefly about that. We haven't even got to books yet. I still don't know about "The Rosary." Once or twice when I have been alone with Mrs. Barnes she has begun to talk of Dolly, who appears to fill most of her thoughts, but each time she has broken off in the middle and resumed her praises of the situation and the view. I haven't been alone at all yet with Dolly; nor, though Mr. Barnes has been dwelt upon in detail, have I been told anything about Mr. Jewks. August Impetuosity sometimes gets the better of me, and out begins to rush a question; but 112 IN THE MOUNTAINS up to now I have succeeded in catching it and strangling it before it is complete. For perhaps my new friends have been very unhappy, just as I have been very unhappy, and they may be struggling out of it just as I am, still with places in their memories that hurt too much for them to dare to touch. Perhaps it is only by silence and reserve that they can manage to be brave. There are no signs, though, of anything of the sort on their composed faces; but then, neither, I think, would they see any signs of such things on mine. The moment as it passes is, I find, somehow a gay thing. Some- body says something amusing, and I laugh; somebody is kind, and I am happy. Just the smell of a flower, the turn of a sentence, any- thing, the littlest thing, is enough to make the passing moment gay to me. I am sure my guests can't tell by looking at me that I have ever been anything but cheerful; and so I, by looking at them, wouldn't be able to say that they have ever been anything but composed- Mrs. Barnes composed and grave, Mrs. Jewks composed and smiling. But I refuse now to jump at conclusions in the nimble way I used to. Even about Mrs. Barnes, who would seem to be an IN THE MOUNTAINS 113 untouched monument of tranquillity, a cave of calm memories, I can no longer be sure. And so we sit together quietly on the terrace, and are as presentable as so many tidy, white- curtained houses in a decent street. We don't know w r hat we've got inside us each of disorder, of discomfort, of anxieties. Per- haps there is nothing; perhaps my friends are as tidy and quiet inside as out. Any- how up to now we have kept ourselves to ourselves, as Mrs. Barnes w r ould say, and we make a most creditable show. Only I don't believe in that keeping oneself to oneself attitude. Life is too brief to waste any of it being slow in making friends. I have a theory Mrs. Barnes isn't the only one of us three who has theories that reticence is a stuffy, hampering thing. Ex- cept about one's extremest bitter grief, which is, like one's extremest joy of love, too deeply hidden away with God to be told of, one should be without reserves. And if one makes mistakes, and if the other person turns out to have been unworthy of being treated frankly and goes away and distorts, it can't be helped one just takes the risk. For isn't anything better than distrust and the slowness and selfish fear of caution? Isn't 114 IN THE MOUNTAINS anything better than not doing one's fellow creatures the honour of taking it for granted that they are, women and all, gentlemen? Besides, how lonely . . . August %3rd. The sun goes on blazing, and we go on sitting in the shade in a row. Mrs. Barnes does a great deal of knitting. She knits socks for soldiers all day. She got into this habit during the war, when she sent I don't know how many pairs a year to the trenches, and now she can't stop. I suppose these will go to charitable institutions, for al- though the war has left off there are, as Mrs. Jewks justly said, still legs in the world. This remark I think came under the heading Dolly in Mrs. Barnes's mind, for she let her glance rest a moment on her sister in a kind of affectionate concern. Mrs. Jewks hasn't said much yet, but each time she has said anything I have liked it. Usually she murmurs, almost as if she didn't want Mrs. Barnes to hear, yet couldn't help saying what she says. She, too, knits, but only, I think, because her sister likes to see her sitting beside her doing it, and never for long at a time. Her chief occupation, I IN THE MOUNTAINS 115 have discovered, is to read aloud to Mrs. Barnes. This wasn't done in my presence the first four days out of consideration for me, for everybody doesn't like being read to, Mrs. Barnes explained afterward; but they went upstairs after lunch to their rooms to sleep, as I supposed, knowing how well they do that, and it was only gradually that I realized, from the monotonous gentle drone coming through the window to where I lay below on the grass, that it wasn't Mrs. Barnes giving long drawn-out counsel to Mrs. Jewks on the best way to cope with the dangers of being Dolly, but that it was Mrs. Jewks reading aloud. After that I suggested they should do this on the terrace, where it is so much cooler than anywhere else in the afternoon; so now, reassured that it in no way disturbs me Mrs. Barnes's politeness and sense of duty as a guest never flags for a moment this is what happens, and it happens in the mornings also. For, says Mrs. Barnes, how much better it is to study what persons of note have said than waste the hours of life saying things oneself. They read biographies and histories, but only those, I gather, that are not recent; 116 IN THE MOUNTAINS and sometimes, Mrs. Barnes said, they lighten what Mrs. Jewks described in a murmur as these more solid forms of fiction by reading a really good novel. I asked Mrs. Barnes with much interest about the novel. What were the really good ones they had read? And I hung on the answer, for here was something we could talk about that wasn't either the situation or the view and yet was discreet. "Ah," she said, shaking her head, "there are very few really good novels. We don't care, of course, except for the very best, and they don't appear to be printed nowa- days." "I expect the very best are unprintable," murmured Mrs. Jewks, her head bent over her knitting, for it was one of the moments when she, too, was engaged on socks. 'There used to be very good novels," continued Mrs. Barnes, who hadn't I think heard her, "but of recent years they have indeed been few. I begin to fear we shall never again see a Thackeray or a Trollope. And yet I have a theory and surely these two writers prove it that it is possible to be both wholesome and clever." "I don't want to see any more Thackerays IN THE MOUNTAINS 117 and Trollopes," murmured Mrs. Jewks. "I've seen them. Now I want to see something different." This sentence was too long for Mrs. Barnes not to notice, and she looked at me as one who should say, "There. What did I tell you? Her name unsettles her." There was a silence. "Our father," then said Mrs. Barnes, with so great a gravity of tone that for a moment I thought she was unaccountably and at eleven o'clock in the morning going to em- bark on the Lord's Prayer, "knew Thackeray. He mixed with him." And as I wasn't quite sure whether this was a rebuke for Dolly or information for me, I kept quiet. As, however, Mrs. Barnes didn't continue, I began to feel that perhaps I was expected to say something. So I did. 'That," I said, "must have been very I searched round for an enthusiastic word, but couldn't find one. It is unfortunate how I can never think of any words more enthusiastic than what I am feeling. They seem to disappear; and urged by politeness, or a desire to please, I frantically hunt for them in a perfectly empty mind. The near- 118 IN THE MOUNTAINS est approach to one that I found this morn- ing was Enjoyable. I don't think much of Enjoyable. It is a watery word; but it was all I found, so I said it. "That must have been very enjoyable," I said; and even I could hear that my voice was without excitement. Mrs. Jewks looked at me and smiled. "It was more than enjoyable," said Mrs. Barnes, "it was elevating. Dolly used to feel just as I do about it," she added, her eye reproachfully on her sister. "It is not Thackeray's fault that she no longer does." "It's only because I've finished with him," said Mrs. Jewks, apologetically. "Now I want something different." "Dolly and I," explained Mrs. Barnes to me, "don't always see alike. I have a theory that one doesn't finish with the Immortals." "Would you put Thackeray " I began, diffidently. Mrs. Barnes stopped me at once. "Our father," she said again my hands instinctively wanted to fold "who was an excellent judge, indeed a specialist if I may say so, placed him among the Immortals. Therefore I am content to leave him there." IN THE MOUNTAINS 119 "But isn't that filial piety rather than I began again, still diffident but also obstinate. "In any case," interrupted Mrs. Barnes, raising her hand as though I were the traffic, "I shall never forget the influence he and the other great writers of the period had upon the boys." 'The boys?" I couldn't help inquiring, in spite of this being an interrogation. "Our father educated boys. On an unusual and original system. Being devoid of the classics, which he said was all the better because then he hadn't to spend any time remembering them, he was a devoted Eng- lish linquist. Accordingly he taught boys English foreign boys, because English boys naturally know it already, and his method was to make them minutely acquainted with the great novels the great wholesome novels of that period. Not a French, or Dutch, or Italian boy but went home "Or German," put in Mrs. Jewks. "Most of them were Germans." Mrs. Barnes turned red. "Let us forget them," she said, with a wave of her hand. "It is my earnest desire," she continued, looking at me, "to forget Germans." "Do let us," I said, politely. 120 IN THE MOUNTAINS "Not one of the boys," she then went on, "but returned to his country with a knowl- edge of the colloquial English of the best period, and of the noble views of that period as expressed by the noblest men, unobtain- able by any other method. Our father called himself a Non-Grammarian. The boys went home knowing no rules of grammar, yet unable to talk incorrectly. Thackeray him- self was the grammar, and his characters the teachers. And so was Dickens, but not quite to the same extent, because of people like Sam Weller who might have taught the boys slang. Thackeray was immensely interested when our father wrote and told him about the school, and once when he was in London he invited him to lunch." Not quite clear as to who was in London and which invited which, I said, "Who?" "It was our father who went to London," said Mrs. Barnes, "and was most kindly entertained by Thackeray." "He went because he wasn't there already," explained Mrs. Jewks. "Dolly means," said Mrs. Barnes, "that he did not live in London. Our father was an Oxford man. Not in the narrow, technical meaning that has come to be attached to the IN THE MOUNTAINS term, but in the simple, natural sense of living there. It was there that we were born, and there that we grew up in an atmosphere of education. We saw it all round us going on in the different colleges, and we saw it in detail and at first hand in our own home. For we, too, were brought up on Thackeray and Dickens, in whom our father said we would find everything girls needed to know and nothing that they had better not." "I used to have a perfect itch," murmured Mrs. Jewks, "to know the things I had better not." And Mrs. Barnes again looked at me as one who should say, "There. \Vhat did I tell you? Such a word, too. Itch." There was a silence. I could think of nothing to say that wouldn't appear either inquisitive or to be encouraging Dolly. Mrs. Barnes sits between us. This arrange- ment of our chairs on the grass happened apparently quite naturally the first day, and now has become one that I feel I mustn't disturb. For me to drop into the middle chair would somehow now be impossible. It is Mrs. Barnes's place. Yet I do want to sit next to Mrs. Jewks and talk to her. Or, better still, go for a walk with her. But 122 IN THE MOUNTAINS Mrs. Barnes always goes for the walks, either with or without me, but never without Mrs. Jewks. She hasn't yet left us once alone together. If anything needs fetching it is Mrs. Jewks who fetches it. They don't seem to want to write letters, but if they did I expect they would both go in to write them at the same time. I do think, though, that we are growing a little more intimate At least to-day we have talked of something that wasn't the view. I shouldn't be surprised if in another week, supposing the hot weather lasts so long, I shall be asking Mrs. Barnes outright what it is Dolly did that has apparently so per- manently unnerved her sister. But suppose she retaliated by asking me oh, there are so many things she could ask me that I couldn't answer! Except with the shameful, exposing answer of beginning very helplessly to cry. . . . August %4