UCSB LIBRARY
 
 APPLETONS 1 
 
 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE 
 
 TO 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 [1868.] 
 
 PRINCIPALLY DEVOTED TO 
 
 ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, IRELAND, SWITZERLAND, 
 FRANCE, GERMANY AND ITALY ; 
 
 WITH GLIMPSES OF 
 
 SPAIN, SHORT ROUTES IN THE EAST, ETC.; AND A 
 
 COLLATION OF TRAVELLERS' PHRASES IN 
 
 FRENCH AND GERMAN. 
 
 AUTHOR OP " OVER SEA," " PARIS IN '67," ETC., ETC. 
 
 NEW YOEK: 
 
 D. APPLETON & CO., 90, 92 & 94 GRAND STREET 
 1868.
 
 ENTEKED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1868, by 
 D. APPLETON & CO., 
 
 In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the 
 Southern District of New York.
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 I. COST OF SHORT EUROPEAN TRIPS, . . .5 
 
 II. TIME NECESSARY ON SHORT EUROPEAN TRIPS, . 15 
 
 III. STEAMSHIP LINES TO EUROPE, WITH A HINT FOR 
 
 " 'ROUND THE WORLD," . . .24 
 
 IV. PREPARATIONS FOR " GOING OVER," . . 83 
 
 V. WHAT TO Do AND AVOID, ON SHIPBOARD, . . 47 
 
 VI. LOOK-OUTS AND LAND-MAKINGS, . . 57 
 
 VII. ENTERING FOREIGN COUNTRIES, . . .75 
 
 VIII. SHORT TRIPS IN IRELAND, . . . 81 
 
 IX. SHORT TRIPS IN SCOTLAND, . . . .97 
 
 X. SHORT TRIPS m ENGLAND, . . . 118 
 
 XI. CROSSING THE BRITISH CHANNEL, . . .159 
 
 XII. SHORT TRIPS IN FRANCE, . . . 162 
 
 XIII. PARIS TO GENEVA, . . . . .183 
 
 XIV. SHORT TRIPS ix SWITZERLAND, . . 186 
 
 XV. BALE TO STRASBOURG AND BADEN-BADEN, . . 204 
 
 XVI. SHORT TRIPS IN GERMANY, . . . 210 
 
 XVII. ACROSS THE ALPS TO ITALY, . . .231 
 
 XVIII. SHORT TRIPS IN ITALY, ... 243 
 
 XIX. SHORT TRIPS IN SPAIN, . . . .278 
 
 XX. HINTS FOR A SHORT ROUTE IN THE EAST, . 287 
 
 XXI. TRAVELLERS' PHRASES IN FRENCH AND GERMAN, 298 
 
 XXII. EUROPEAN MONEY IN AMERICAN COIN, . 321
 
 ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 TO THE EDITION FOR 1868. 
 
 THE suggestion was several times made to the author- 
 compiler, during the summer of 1867, at the French Expo- 
 sition and elsewhere : " You are picking up materials for 
 books of travel why do you not supply what everybody 
 wants : a short and comparatively-cheap Guicle-Book to the 
 countries of Europe oftenest visited by us hurried Americans, 
 who have neither much time nor much money to spend ? 
 Very few of us, in proportion, can afford to travel in more 
 than one or two countries, or three, or four ; and we cannot 
 expect to see all that is worth seeing, even in them. Give 
 us something concise, in not-too-small type, simple, practi- 
 cal and good-humored where we can easily find what we 
 want to know, and avoid finding the ten thousand things 
 that we don't want to know. Tell us how to see the best 
 things in the least space of time and at the least expendi- 
 ture of money; and inform us, among other things, how 
 much time and money ought to be consumed in making 
 the best short rounds." 
 
 The " Short-Trip Guide to Europe " is the result of that 
 often-repeated suggestion, and it has been especially de- 
 signed to meet that demand. The principal effort has been, 
 to make it rapid, plain and practical to fit it especially to 
 the needs of the thousands of Americans who visit Eu?ope for 
 very brief periods : absent from home for from six weeks to 
 three or four months to point out the objects which should 
 be seen ,/??, if all cannot be seen to show where and how,
 
 vi ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 at one point and another, the short trip may be best extended 
 a little or yet more to make it an instructive (and some- 
 times amusing) pocket-companion, its size especially fitting 
 it for that purpose to aid the hurried, put the raw and 
 nervous at ease, save money to travellers of limited means, 
 and at least lay a profitable foundation of knowledge for 
 those who may intend to travel more at length, more at 
 leisure, and pursue more elaborate works of the same char- 
 acter. And in this connection it may be proper to say that 
 while by far the larger proportion of the matter presented 
 is the result of personal observation and diligent inquiry 
 among intelligent travellers known to have gone over routes 
 as yet unvisited by the writer still there is an obligation 
 owed to Baedeker, to Murray, and other professionals long 
 in the field, and to the cosmopolitan Fetridge, whose " Har- 
 per's Hand-Book " is always found available by those who 
 tarry long in the Old World, instead of merely running 
 through the best parts of it. 
 
 As may be supposed, it is the intention of author and 
 publishers to continue the publication of the " Short-Trip 
 Guide," punctually every year, issued earlier in the follow- 
 ing seasons than has been found practicable in the present 
 not an item of old or exploded matter left, from one issue to 
 another, if something newer and more interesting can be 
 found to fill its place and add to the practical usefulness 
 of the series. 
 
 YORK CITY, May, 1868.
 
 THE SHORT -TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 (1868.) 
 
 COST OP SHORT EUROPEAN TRIPS. 
 
 OF course the question Whether to go to Europe at 
 all f underlies, with Americans, both those others : 
 How to go? and Where to go? The distance (of 
 which something more will be said directly, ) is known 
 to be great, between the New and Old Worlds, though 
 it is really only about one-eighth of that around the 
 globe. 
 
 With many men Time is the great object, and the 
 want of it the great hindrance ; though they may 
 annually spend quite as much of it as would be 
 necessary for a summer tour, in .dawdling elsewhere, 
 around home or in places seen until they have be- 
 come tiresome. With a far greater number of those 
 who love Nature and Art to such an extent as 
 to make travel a delight, Money is the anxiety, the 
 want of it the hindrance, and the belief that a mint 
 is nece'ssary for anything European, the great bug- 
 bear which confines them to one continent.
 
 C SHOET-TEIP GUIDE. 
 
 A large proportion of this is a mistake, originally 
 induced by want of intelligent enquiry, and materi- 
 ally added to by the exaggerations, not to call them 
 falsehoods, of those who have been over the desired 
 routes. While " going to Europe " was principaDy 
 confined to the wealthy few or those driven by busi- 
 ness demands, it was at once an easy and a tempting 
 thing to do, to add to the supposed importance of 
 what had been done, by overstating the cost as well 
 as enlarging on the personal adventure and peril ; 
 and, truth to say, the habit has not yet quite died 
 out, now when the many follow in the track of the 
 few and detection is so much easier. Mr. Longbow, 
 who supplies (as he believes) the centre at home of 
 an admiring circle, not many members of which are 
 likely to follow him abroad cannot resist the temp- 
 tation to show, when he returns, that he has been 
 doing, in the way of cost, what they had better not 
 attempt if they do not wish to fail miserably ; and 
 Madame La Mode, flaunting in home-circles the 
 silks and jewelry purchased during the previous 
 summer at Paris, will enlarge a little upon the cost 
 of not only the silks and jewelry, but of getting into 
 the " society " in which she figured in the great 
 capitals. 
 
 Travelers tell " travelers' stories/' in a pecuniary 
 as well as an adventurous point of view : that is the 
 truth, briefly told ; and those stories frighten away 
 many who would else enlarge their knowledge of 
 life by seeing other continents than their own. 
 
 Not that many Americans fail to spend enormous 
 amounts abroad : it is a shameful fact that we do
 
 COST OF TRIPS. 1 
 
 spend more money, on an average, ur travel, than 
 any other nation beneath the sun. It is easy for 
 the writer to recal to mind one gentleman of New 
 York, without landed estates, the working of capital, 
 or other resources than his own hard-working energy 
 and talent, who, during two-and-a-half months of 
 the summer of 1865, in England and France alone, 
 and principally about London and Paris, spent, un- 
 accompanied, between $7,000 and $8,000, and bor- 
 rowed money in London for his passage homeward ! 
 And during the summer of 1867, a well-known gen- 
 tleman of fortune, of New York, visiting London 
 and Paris with his wife and child, and going no step 
 beyond the latter city, found the $8,000 (gold) which 
 he had taken with him, insufficient, and drew on 
 New York for $2,000 additional. Very possibly 
 these figures do not even approach the amount of 
 money spent by each one of many wealthy or wasteful 
 Americans during corresponding periods : they are 
 only given as instances happening to fall under per- 
 sonal knowledge. 
 
 So much for, what may be spent in very brief 
 tours, by those who can afford plenty of money, or 
 think that they can do so : now for what may be 
 saved, or rather for the question upon how little 
 these brief tours may really be made, withoiit dis- 
 comfort or painful compromise of position. 
 
 There was a country clergyman, not far from one 
 of the large American cities, who, having united a 
 couple in marriage, some quarter of a century ago, 
 was privately enquired of by the well-to-do bride- 
 groom, shortly after the completion of the ceremony,
 
 8 SHORT- TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 as to the amount due for that performance. ""Well," 
 answered the clergyman, " I have no fixed price for 
 such services. People generally pay me according 
 to their means and what they think that they can 
 afford. Sometimes I get as high as fifty dollars '. 
 twenty dollars ; ten ; five ; and one man, not long 
 ago, paid me ha! ha! only think of it! only 
 twenty-five cents !" " Humph ! twenty-five cents ! 
 well, that was reasonable enough !" replied the new- 
 made bridegroom, extracting a quarter from his 
 pocket and handing it over to the astounded official, 
 who had thus given one peep too many into the 
 " extreme economy " of paying for wedding cere- 
 monials ! 
 
 The application of which is to say that visits to 
 Europe may be made by Americans, a little on the 
 principle of the Cincinnatian who burned his lamps 
 all day because " lard oil was cheaper than daylight " 
 that they may go, if they will, quite as cheaply as 
 they can remain at home, possibly a little cheaper. 
 This, however, might be like the twenty-five cents of 
 the penurious bridegroom, and would involve the 
 steerage of the ships, the third-class cattle-pens of 
 the European railways, and lodging somewhere in 
 the back-slums of any cities visited. 
 
 Still, even in the steerage, on some of the best- 
 appointed lines (about which something definite in 
 due place) passages may be made with much less 
 discomfort than most stay-at-home people suppose ; 
 and it is not at all certain that thousands of hardy 
 persons, limited in means, who spend the requisite 
 amounts of time and money on very questionable
 
 COST OF TRIPS. 9 
 
 home-amusements approaching to vices, might not 
 do well to tempt a little rugged life in . the forward 
 parts of the ships that carry over their wealthy 
 brothers in the saloon-cabins. For on those best 
 lines the discomforts, inconveniences and unhealthi- 
 nesses of steerage-passage have all been materially 
 ameliorated within the past three or four years : the 
 sleeping accommodations on many of them are en- 
 durable if no more ; the food is almost always plen- 
 tiful and generally excellent ; the amount of amuse- 
 ment enjoyed is always greater than that attainable 
 by the " stiffer " people at the stern ; and the safety 
 to person is necessarily the same except under cir- 
 cumstances of gross carelessness. 
 
 Let us see, for the benefit of those very limited in 
 means and still desirous to see a little fragment of 
 the Old "World what would be the absolute cost of 
 doing what emigrants of both sexes and all countries 
 very often do for the sake of spending a few days 
 with friends in the places of nativity. Say that six 
 weeks' time is attainable, and let the cost of that six 
 weeks be measured in current greenbacks. 
 
 Steerage passage to Liverpool, $30 return $35 : 
 total, $65. Time not on board ship, about three 
 weeks ; board, for that time, average of $10 per 
 week, $30. Expenses of sight-seeing about Liver- 
 pool, London and some neighboring towns, during 
 that period, $10. Occasional necessary conveyance, 
 the feet being principally trusted to, $25. Inciden- 
 tal expenses, liberally calculated, $20. Total, $150, 
 greenbacks! $20 more would enable the cheap- 
 tourist to land in Ireland on the way, see Dublin,
 
 10 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Cork, Blarney Castle and the Lakes of Killarney ; 
 and $30 added to that would supply a run up to 
 Scotland, a view of Edinburgh, Glasgow, the Scottish 
 Lakes and Highlands. Grand total, 200, green- 
 backs ; with a certainty that any economical person, 
 in good health and temper, could reduce that sum 
 by at least $25, or to $175. Another $30 added to 
 the grand total, or from $205 to $230, would afford 
 a run across the British Channel, to Paris, with three 
 or four days' sights of that most enchanting of cities. 
 How many comparatively-poor men are there, with 
 longing and hopeless desires after seeing other 
 countries than their own, who never make any calcu- 
 lation or effort to such an end, and yet who could 
 and would compass it if they fairly understood the 
 comparative trifle for which so much might be 
 enjoyed ! 
 
 One of the greatest of American travelers, Mr. 
 Bayard Taylor, made his first European excursion 
 under circumstances quite as illiberal as anything 
 here indicated " did " Great Britain and a very 
 considerable portion of the continent on foot, except 
 with rare instances of riding, and remained not less 
 than six or seven months, his whole expenditure 
 being only about $500, and the fortunate result of 
 his travel that successful volume " Views-A-foot ; or, 
 Europe Seen with Knapsack and Staff." And it is 
 very doubtful whether in any portion of his later 
 experience, in all descriptions of traveling " state " 
 up to that of Secretary of Legation at St. Peters- 
 burg, he has ever enjoyed his wanderings better 
 than when making that first essay as a poor boy
 
 COST OF TRIPS. 11 
 
 But the figures already given, represent, of course, 
 the minimum possibility of travel in the most-easily- 
 attainable European countries, compatible with even 
 the decencies of life, without too many of its com- 
 forts ; and it is, equally of course, with that class of 
 people standing midway between the possible steer- 
 age-passenger and the traveler en prince, that we have 
 next and principally to do. The most important 
 question of this paper is lV)iat need be the expenses, 
 for a certain round, of a traveler going first-class and 
 demanding all the comforts, and yet indisposed to u-aste 
 money on costly luxuries f 
 
 To answer that question, then, as intelligibly as 
 may be consistent with brevity. 
 
 For six to seven weeks' absence from home, visiting 
 portions of England, Ireland, Scotland and France, 
 only. 
 
 Ticket *to Liverpool and return, $180 to $300 (gold) 
 say an average of $225, for which all necessary 
 comfort and quite sufficient " style " can be secured. 
 Average board of the three weeks off-ship, $15 to $20 
 per week say $60. Traveling expenses, railway and 
 carriage fares, etc., $150. Maps, pictures, curiosities, 
 books, etc. (not all necessary, but inevitable), $50. 
 Incidental expenses, for which no name can be given ; 
 money to guides, beggars, stewards and servants ; 
 money lost and wasted, with an occasional indulgence 
 in a luxury, not including costly wines or " society," 
 gambling or other vices $50. Total, $535 gold ; or, 
 with gold at 140, about $750 currency. $75 gold or 
 $105 currency may easily be saved from this, by a 
 very careful person, leaving the expenditure $4GO
 
 12 SHORT-TRIP GLIDE. 
 
 gold or $645 currency. For this, necessarily brief 
 but quite satisfactory acquaintance may be made, in 
 succession, with Cork, the Lakes of Killarney, and 
 Dublin, in Ireland ; Liverpool, Chester, London (with 
 its surroundings), hi England ; Dieppe, Eouen and 
 Paris (with its surroundings), hi France ; Edinburgh, 
 Glasgow and the Perthshire Highlands, in Scotland. 
 
 For ten weeks' absence, an estimate of $200 gold 
 additional may safely be made, bringing the total 
 outlay up to say $735 gold or $1000 currency ; and 
 this will secure, in addition to the round already 
 named, the Cumberland Lakes and Shakspeare 
 Neighborhood of England, with Birmingham, Man- 
 chester and York ; a more extended examination of 
 both London and Paris ; a rapid run through the 
 more frequented parts of Switzerland, and so far into 
 Germany as Baden-Baden and the Black Forest. 
 
 For three months' (thirteen or fourteen" weeks) 
 absence, another $200 gold may be added, bringing 
 the amount up to say $935, or $1275 currency ; and 
 with this all the foregoing may be done, with the 
 addition of some of the principal German cities ; the 
 Rhine ; Holland and Belgium ; the more laborious 
 passes of Switzerland ; one or two of the French and 
 English Channel watering-places ; the Scottish AYest- 
 ern Highlands ; and the Giant's Causeway, Belfast 
 and some of the other towns in the North of Ireland. 
 
 Four months will add to this another $200 or 
 possibly $250 gold, making the total say $1170, or 
 $1600 to $1650 currency ; and with this expenditure 
 to all the foregoing may be added a run across the 
 Alps to the Italian Lakes, Turin, Florence, Rome and
 
 COST OF TRIPS. 13 
 
 Venice, with return by Marseilles and the South of 
 France and a consequent glimpse of the Mediter- 
 ranean. 
 
 At this point the phrase " short trip " may be said 
 to be exhausted ; for only people of liberal means 
 and abundant, leisure are likely to go far beyond in 
 any one visit abroad, and to them these calculations 
 possess no interest whatever. Added to what has 
 been already named, Spain and Portugal in one 
 direction ; Eastern Germany and Austria in another ; 
 Greece, Turkey and the Asiatic and African East in 
 another ; and Sweden, Norway, Eussia, etc., in yet 
 another constitute tours not often entered upon by 
 those who have no special interest calling them there, 
 and who have yet occasion to count time and money 
 before starting. 
 
 The foregoing figures are certainly not startling, 
 and yet they have been all liberally as well as care- 
 fully made, and all of them verified by reliable expe- 
 rience. Twice as much can be thrown away, on either 
 route ; and a considerable amount above the estimate 
 may be frittered away, if due diligence is not observed ; 
 but there is no occasion whatever of going beyond 
 the computation, if gross negligences do not allow, 
 or costly luxuries or yet more costly vices do not 
 induce, the additional expenditure. 
 
 Common sense, without even the aid of experience, 
 will indicate that there are always possibilities of 
 sickness, accident, or some other cause of detention, 
 levying extraordinary expense and that, therefore, 
 it is always best to have a little " margin " of money 
 in pocket or within reach ; but the chances of either
 
 14 SHOET-TEIP GUIDE. 
 
 are scarcely one in an hundred, and on most of the 
 routes specified careful men can save enough from 
 the figures given, to supply themselves with even that 
 " margin," while there is always the option, in the 
 event of unforeseen embarrassment, of shortening the 
 trip contemplated and hoping for "better luck next 
 time."
 
 n. 
 
 TIME NECESSARY ON ORDINARY EUROPEAN ROUTES. 
 
 A CONSIDERABLE portion of what might have been 
 said in this paper, has found place in the one preced- 
 ing as in that the round that may be safely attempted 
 within each of certain given periods, has been inci- 
 dentally 'mentioned. 
 
 But there is room and even necessity for something 
 more, if this little volume is to be made to fulfil its 
 full purpose. For it is especially designed for Amer- 
 icans ; and Americans sometimes need to be reminded 
 of their own characteristics, quite as much as others 
 to be informed of them. 
 
 There are two misunderstandings, on this question 
 of Time, both of which need to be corrected. The 
 first is an impression that everything can be done 
 within a limited space, and the other that nothing ! 
 Americans generally fall into the first error ; those 
 who attempt to guide without understanding them, 
 tumble into the second. Not even the most incarnate 
 American can rival Puck and "put a girdle" (even 
 one of travel) " round the earth in forty minutes ;" 
 and yet he certainly can go farther and faster with a 
 fair appreciation of what he sees and hears, than any 
 other created being. 
 
 The Money obstacle, which keeps at home so many 
 of those who desire to travel and who would travel
 
 16 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 but for its existence, has already been alluded to. 
 The obstacle of Time is only secondary in importance 
 and scarcely secondary in its effects. 
 
 " Oh, there is no use of my going to Europe, with 
 only such a little time at my disposal!" almost pet- 
 tishly says the prospective possessor of two or three 
 months of leisure. " Think that I am going to cross 
 the Atlantic, without being able to see the whole of 
 it when I do ! No wait !" 
 
 He does " wait," and one of two things is the result. 
 Either he defers going, until growing entanglements 
 make it impossible, or he rushes over, at last, under 
 the impression that he must repay himself for waiting 
 by going over the whole continent, with all its islands, 
 in the one visit and at railway speed the last result 
 being that he " conglomerates " everything, even if he 
 sees it, and brings away a dim doubt whether St. 
 Peter's is not on the top of Jura and the great clock 
 of Strasbourg stowed away somewhere in Westmin- 
 ster Abbey or the Madeleine. 
 
 Meanwhile the European, or the man of any other 
 country whatever than America, scoffs and sneers at 
 the idea that he can see anything whatever without 
 staying a month in each particular place, and the 
 American obtains a reputation for " rushing too fast " 
 when he is really behaving very sensibly in that 
 regard. It is for the purpose of getting at the truth 
 and the " golden mean " in this special particular, 
 that the present paper is written for the purpose of 
 inducing less of that fatal "waiting," less of that 
 crowding too many countries together and exhausting 
 energy in seeing things that are really of no conse-
 
 TIME OF TRIPS. 17 
 
 quence when others of the kind have been sufficiently 
 seen and studied. 
 
 Assuming the fact that the cause of intelligent 
 travel would be materially subserved by people going 
 over oftener, for special routes and without the weak 
 variety of "the gi - and tour or nothing!" assuming 
 this, which is a fact appealing to health, intelligence 
 and common-sense, just as does the propriety of 
 spending one day in every week on the sea-shore at 
 enervating midsummer, instead of working every day 
 for the three hot months in order to find time for 
 tAvo weeks there at the end What are the spaces of 
 time really needed by Americans for certain special 
 objects of travel ? 
 
 Let us dissect some of the routes already named, 
 as the most intelligible mode of arriving at the time 
 which they really need occupy, to a quick-witted 
 and intelligent traveler. 
 
 For the trip of six to seven weeks ($535 gold 
 $750 currency). Time consumed on ship, going and 
 returning, three weeks, leaving three to four weeks 
 ashore. At and about Cork, 1 day. Cork to Lakes 
 of Killarney, and at Lakes, 2 days. Killarney to 
 Dublin and at Dublin, 2 days. Dublin to Liverpool, 
 \ day. Liverpool and Chester, 2 days. Liverpool 
 to London, \ day. London and subiirbs, 6 clays. 
 London to Paris, with stop at Rouen, 1 day. Paris 
 and suburbs, 5 days. Paris back to London and on 
 to Edinburgh, by York, with lay over of one train 
 , there, 2 days. Edinburgh and suburbs, 1| days. 
 Glasgow and going there, 1| days. From Glasgow 
 through Perthshire Highlands to Stirling, 1 day.
 
 18 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Stirling to Burns country of Ayrshire, and stop there, 
 
 1 day. To Liverpool and return-ship, | day. Total, 
 27| days four weeks ; some abridgement of time 
 in London or Paris, or the dropping off of some 
 minor excursions being necessary, if the return home 
 within six weeks is peremptory, while within the 
 seven all can be accomplished without difficulty or 
 unpleasant hurry. 
 
 (Parenthetically, English rural scenery, among the 
 most beautiful on the globe, is also the least varied, 
 so that one excursion through it affords, with rare 
 exceptions, a type of all, and neither time or money 
 need be expended in dull repetitions. To some 
 extent, the same remarks will apply to old churches 
 and old buildings, when there is no historical interest 
 involved : after seeing the most magnificent or the 
 most noted, the remainder are, to a man without full 
 leisure, rather dull than the reverse. ) 
 
 For the ten weeks' trip, take same figures, 28 days 
 ashore, and add to them as follows : From Liverpool 
 to the Cumberland Lakes and return, with time there, 
 
 2 days. Liverpool to Birmingham and through the 
 Shakspeare neighborhood of Warwickshire, taking 
 the London line at Rugby, 3 days. Paris to Geneva, 
 Berne, Interlaken, Strasbourg and Baden-Baden, and 
 back to Paris, 12 days. Additional time at London 
 and Paris, each 2 days, 4 days. Total on shore, 49 
 days, or seven weeks. 
 
 For the three months' trip (13 to 14 weeks), a 
 different arrangement of time is advisable, as follows : 
 Cork, 1 day. To and at Killarney, 3 days. To 
 Dublin and there, 2 days. Dublin to the Giant's
 
 TIME OF TRIPS. 19 
 
 Causeway and across to Belfast, 4 days. Belfast to 
 Greenock and Glasgow, 1 day. Glasgow, 1 day. 
 From Glasgow, through, the Highlands and by Stir- 
 ling to Edinburgh, 3 days. Edinburgh, 2 days. 
 Edinburgh to Ayrshire and stop there, 1| days. To 
 the Cumberland Lakes, | day. At Cumberland. 
 Lakes, 2 days. To Liverpool, | day. At Liverpool, 
 Chester, <fec., 2 days. To Birmingham, Coventry, 
 Stratford-on-Avon, Warwick, &c., 3 days. To Lon- 
 don, 1 day. At London, 6 days. Brighton and 
 Margate, 2 days. To Paris, by Rouen, 1| days. 
 Paris, 6 days. Paris to Geneva (with excursion to 
 Chamouni), Berne, Interlaken, Lucerne (the Rhigi), 
 Bale, Strasbourg and Baden-Baden, 14 clays. Baden- 
 Baden, down the Rhine, and across Germany, Hol- 
 land and Belgium, returning to England at most 
 convenient point, 8 days. To Liverpool, 1 day. 
 Total, 65J days nine weeks and a fraction. 
 
 For the yet-more-extended trip of four months, all 
 the last preceding figures may be used, with the 
 option of employing the remaining 25 to 30 days in 
 either of the following modes : 
 
 Cross the Alps into Italy, by either the St. Gothard, 
 St. Bernard or Mt. Cenis passes, see Lakes Como, 
 Garda, Maggiore, etc., and so many of the cities of 
 Turin, Milan, Florence, Rome, Naples, Venice, etc., 
 as may be attainable within the remaining limit of 
 time and expense (the 30 days and about $200 gold), 
 recrossing the Alps to Switzerland by one of the 
 other passes, and thence pursuing the route last- 
 named, through the remainder of Switzerland, Ger- 
 many, etc. ; or
 
 20 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Abandoning; for this tour, Germany and all beyond 
 that point of Switzerland reached at the time of 
 crossing the Alps, expend the whole remaining, say 
 40 days and $275 to $300 gold, in visiting more of 
 the Italian cities, the Bay of Naples, Vesuvius, etc., 
 and " doing " Home more thoroughly, taking steamer 
 on the Mediterranean at some one of the Italian 
 ports for Marseilles, catching a glimpse of Spain and 
 seeing the southwest of France, crossing nearly the 
 whole length of that empire in running back to Paris 
 and a Channel port for the return to England ; or 
 
 Pursuing generally the course last marked out, 
 abandon, again, something of the Italian opportunity, 
 and substitute one or two of the towns and a por- 
 tion of the Mediterranean coast of Spain, still making 
 Marseilles the objective point, and crossing France 
 to Paris and the Channel, as before. 
 
 There are, of course, many other options, as well 
 as many other comparatively-brief routes, than those 
 which have now been hurriedly discussed especially 
 one which should branch off into Eastern Germany 
 and Austria, leaving out Italy and the south alto- 
 gether ; but it is believed that these include the 
 probable preferences of most Americans, and it is 
 beyond question that this understanding and allot- 
 ment of time and expense will be found, in the main, 
 correct, practical and worthy of study. 
 
 And now one or two particulars, with reference to 
 the employment of tune, in response to certain ques- 
 tions almost sure to be asked by any foreigner read- 
 ing the preceding, and quite likely to be put even by 
 Americans :
 
 TIME OF TRIPS. 21 
 
 " Such brief spaces have been named for some of the 
 most important and interesting places on the globe : how 
 is it possible, for instance, to see anything of either Lon- 
 don or Paris in the six to eight days allotted to each ?" 
 
 To which the answer is : 
 
 t First : there are in both cities certain prominent 
 objects, which all need to visit, and beyond which 
 only persons of leisure care to go. In and about 
 London, the Tower ; Westminster Abbey ; St. Paul's ; 
 the Houses of Parliament ; Windsor Castle and Park ; 
 Buckingham and the other royal palaces ; the British 
 and South Kensington Museums ; the Crystal Palace ; 
 Hyde and the other London parks ; Richmond Hill ; 
 Kew Gardens, etc., the most interesting objects being 
 all really named. In and about Paris, the Boule- 
 vards ; the Seine, its quays and bridges ; the Louvre ; 
 the Tuileries ; Notre Dame, the Madeleine and other 
 great churches ; the Tuileries Gardens, Place de la 
 Concorde, and Champs Elysees ; the Arc d'Etoile and 
 other great monuments ; the Bois de Boulogne ; the 
 Bourse ; Pere la Chaise ; Versailles and Sevres ; the 
 Hotel des Invalides ; the Cathedral Church of St. 
 Denis ; some of the concert-gardens, cafes, etc., the 
 leading objects being again named. 
 
 Now, to get to one-half of these, on foot or with 
 any arrangement existing in an American city, would 
 be simply impossible, at any moderate outlay. But 
 both London and Paris have cab systems worthy the 
 Admiration of the world, and it is in the use of them 
 that sight-seeing becomes so easy, cheap and rapid. 
 
 Take London, then, the cabs understood, and 
 another fact also understood that not all the time
 
 22 SHOET-TEIP GUIDE. 
 
 desirable is to be used, but enough for very intelligent 
 views. For "Westminster Abbey, St. Paul's and the 
 Houses of Parliament, 1J days. For the Tower, \ 
 day. Crystal Palace, 1 day. "Windsor Castle and 
 Park, \ day. Richmond, Kew, Hampton Court, etc., 
 1 day. British Museum and Guildhall (with the 
 Temple), 1 day. Through London Parks and streets, 
 with the Royal Palaces (outside views), the Horse- 
 Guards, Mansion House, Bank of England, Monu- 
 ments, &c., 1 to 2| days. Total, 6| to 8 days, the 
 theatres being visited in tile intervening nights by 
 those who choose, and a much better general idea of 
 London being thus acquired by an active and intelli- 
 gent traveler, than many obtain in months of resi- 
 dence. 
 
 Take Paris (not in an "Exposition" year). For 
 Versailles and Sevres, with glimpse of St. Cloud and 
 ride through the whole length of the Bois de Bou- 
 logne, 1 day. For Pere la Chaise (cemetery), | da}-. 
 For St. Denis, \ day. For the great churches, the 
 Pantheon, Notre Dame, St. Roch, the Madeleine, St. 
 Eustache, St. Etienne du Mont, &c., 1 day. For the 
 Tuileries Gardens, Champs Elysees, along the Seine, 
 the bridges, &c., 1 day. For inside the Louvre, with 
 glimpses of that and the other palaces, outside, 1 day. 
 For the Hotel des Invalides, the Champ de Mars, &c., 
 \ day. For the Hotel de Ville, Place de Greve, 
 Palais Royal, Hotel Cluny, etc. any or all of them 
 1 to 3 days, at will. Total, 6| to 8 days. The Bou- 
 levards will necessarily be seen in passing along them 
 on special visits ; and so of the great monuments, 
 the Arc d'Etoile, Arc du Carrousel, Colonne de Ven-
 
 TIME OF TRIPS. 23 
 
 dome, Colonne de Juillet, &c. ; while the theatres 
 and the concert gardens (Mabille, &c.,) naturally fill 
 the evenings. 
 
 Such a distribution of time -would inevitably appal 
 the slow and steady Englishman ; but not so with 
 the vivacious, quick-moving and quick-seeing Ameri- 
 can ; and nothing more than these two extreme 
 instances can be necessary, it is believed, to demon- 
 strate that the " short-trip " plan and division of time 
 are not only practicable but reasonable, however 
 much even the most hurried might prefer to have 
 unlimited time and money at command !
 
 III. 
 
 STEAMSHIP LINES TO EUEOPE, WITH A HINT FOR 
 "'BOUND THE WORLD." 
 
 MOST persons, not taking especial thought on the 
 subject, fail to recognize the immense proportions to 
 which the steam navy, carrying passengers between 
 the port of New York and four ports of the Old 
 "World (Liverpool, Glasgow, Havre and Bremen) has 
 reached ; and partially to afford a glance at its pro- 
 portions, as also to remind tourists what facilities 
 for choice are placed at their disposal, a brief glance 
 is here taken at the most reliable lines, their ships, 
 performances, and the advantages they offer. 
 
 LINES TO QUEENSTOWN AND LIVERPOOL. 
 
 Cunard Line. (British and North American Royal 
 Mail Steamship Company^) 
 
 This line, which may be said to stand among the 
 first of its class in any service in the world, and 
 which makes the proud boast that it has never lost a 
 passenger by any accident since the day of its estab- 
 lishment, besides having carried the mails with a 
 speed and regularity almost wonderful as the result 
 of Iruman skill and forethought this line has now 
 employed, in the service between New York and 
 Liverpool, no less than twenty ships seven mail 
 steamers, carrying only first-class passengers the
 
 STEAMSHIPS TO EUROPE, ETC. 25 
 
 Scotia and Persia (paddle- wheelers), the Russia, 
 Cuba, Java, China and Australasian, screws ; be- 
 sides the Siberia, Malta, Ilecla, Palmyra, Tarifa, 
 Marathon, Kedar, Olympus, Tripoli, Aleppo, Mo- 
 rocco and Sid on, extra steamers, carrying first and 
 third class. The average time of the runs of the 
 mail steamers from Queenstown to New York, dur- 
 ing 1867, was lOd. 5h. 40m. ; from New York to 
 Liverpool, including detentions at Queenstown, lOd. 
 5h. llm. The two most rapid runs of the year were 
 those of the Scotia to Queenstown in 8d. 9h. 26m., 
 and of the Russia to New York in 8d. lOh. 34m. The 
 Commodore of this line is the veteran Captain Jud- 
 kins, of the Scotia ; and its notabilities are good fare, 
 fine accommodations, sharp discipline, and reliability 
 as to performance. 
 
 Inman Line. (Liverpool, New York and Philadel- 
 phia Steamship Company.} 
 
 This line comes second in order of establishment, 
 and only second in the number of ships employed. 
 It is claimed to have done more to " bridge the 
 Atlantic," by good accommodations at moderate 
 prices, than any other line on the ocean ; and it has 
 lately so shown the justice of that demand on the 
 British Government, as to have been accorded a di- 
 vision of the mail service, besides that exclusively 
 to Halifax. It also deserves the credit of having 
 seen and depended upon the merit of the screw-prin- 
 ciple, at an earlier day than any other ; and its voy- 
 ages have been remarkably successful and safe. Its 
 fleet of steamers now comprise the splendid mail-
 
 26 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 boats (City of) Paris, Antwerp, London, Boston and 
 Baltimore (also the Brooklyn nearly finished), with 
 the New York, Washington, Manchester, Limerick, 
 Cork, Kangaroo, and several others, on the Halifax 
 branch, running to Liverpool as extra steamers, or 
 held in reserve. The Commodore is Captain James 
 Kennedy, of the City of Paris, whose average of 
 passages, from April to August, 1867, between New 
 York and Queenstown, was 9d. 5h. 3m., while the 
 Antwerp, London, Boston and Baltimore followed 
 close, and the City of Paris made the extraordinary 
 run, in November, of 8d. 4h. 37m., the shortest west- 
 ward on record. Officers courteous fare good 
 ships and Hue excellent. 
 
 National Line. (National Steam Navigation Com- 
 pany.} 
 
 This line comes third in order of establishment, 
 and has risen to assured and worthy success on the 
 specialties of large and roomy ships, good fare, good 
 accommodations at exceedingly low prices, and gen- 
 eral courtesy. It has now in employment the fine 
 steamers France, England, Denmark, Helvetia, Penn- 
 sylvania, Erin, Virginia, and others, receiving a con- 
 stantly increasing share of the large transit between 
 the two countries, and entitled to the credit of hav- 
 ing gone a step beyond the Inman line in demonstra- 
 ting the practicability of cheap carriage without the 
 sacrifice of either comfort or safety. The Commo- 
 dore of this line is Captain Grace, of the France, the 
 latest-built of the fleet, and which vessel has already 
 demonstrated her capacity to compete with the best
 
 STEAMSHIPS TO EUROPE, ETC. 27 
 
 of the mail-steamers, while the sea-going qualities 
 of all the vessels have been proved to admiration. 
 All the saloons on deck form a pleasing specialty of 
 this line, as well as abundance of room in staterooms 
 and saloons. 
 
 Williams and Guion Line. (Liverpool and Great 
 Western Steam Company.} 
 
 This is the youngest of the great lines to Liver- 
 pool, but is rapidly becoming one of the most popu- 
 lar. Its specialties are ships of immense size, splen- 
 did model and great strength, built on the Tyne 
 (instead of on the Clyde, as most of the other lines), 
 adopting the brig-rig entirely, offering the great- 
 est possible amount of room per passenger, with 
 state-rooms and saloons all on deck (as half-an-hour's 
 inspection of the so-far latest-finished, the magnifi- 
 cent Colorado, will abundantly show), and supply- 
 ing, like the National, excellent transit at very low 
 rates. The ships now in service are the Colorado, 
 Nebraska, Manhattan and Minnesota, all of about 
 3,000 tons, while the Nevada and Idaho are being 
 rapidly finished and will have place on the line dur- 
 ing the summer. The Commodore is Captain Cut- 
 ting, of the Colorado, who only heads his brother 
 captains and the other officers of the line in " taking 
 care of his passengers," and showing the true cour- 
 tesy of sea-going.
 
 28 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 LINE TO LONDONDERRY AND GLASGOW. 
 
 Anchor Line. (Henderson Brothers, Glasgow.} 
 
 Frpm comparatively small beginnings this line has 
 been for years increasing in the number and size of 
 its ships, in efficiency of management, arrangements 
 for the comfort and pleasure of passengers, and con- 
 sequently in popularity. The vessels now employed 
 are the splendid new vessels, the Europa, Columbia 
 and Hibernia, in all of which the science of pleasing 
 passengers seems to be carried to full perfection, even 
 to the extent of supplying them with pianos, and 
 the Caledonia, Iowa, Britannia, United Kingdom and 
 Cambria, with all the other comforts, and soon to 
 have that exceptional one. The courtesy of the offi- 
 cers of this line is proverbial ; and as the ships make 
 the " North About," avoiding the British Channel, 
 securing the most splendid of approaches to land, 
 and booking passengers to Liverpool at the same 
 price as to Glasgow, it is not strange that hundreds 
 of those w r ho wish to include Scotland in their tours 
 are bending in that direction. It should be noted, 
 in addition, that the same company run steamers 
 from Glasgow to Lisbon, Gibraltar, Malta, the Ital- 
 ian ports and Alexandria, making a convenient con- 
 nection in that direction. 
 
 LINE TO BREST AND HAVRE. 
 
 French Line. (Compagnie Generale Transatlan- 
 
 tique.) 
 
 The withdrawal of the American line to Brest 
 and Havre (the Fulton, Arago, etc.), while painfully
 
 STEAMSHIPS TO EUROPE, ETC. 29 
 
 impressing Americans, still leaves the consciousness 
 that what remains is the very best. No line, in the 
 same length of time, ever made such a reputation as 
 the ships of the General Transatlantic Company, for 
 safety, speed and elegance, and it may be said that 
 none carries so many first-class passengers per ship. 
 The vessels now employed are the Pereire, Ville de 
 Paris, St. Laurent, Europe, Napoleon III., Lafayette, 
 Washington and Europe. The ships seem to be built 
 and run " regardless of expense " and with French 
 fare and courtesy. The Pereire, during 1867, made 
 five passages between New York and Brest, averag- 
 ing 8d. 20h., and the Ville de Paris and St. Laurent 
 averaging 9d. llh. among the best performances 
 known to ocean service ; and there is no doubt that 
 '68 will see the equal of '67, in speed, comfort and 
 popularity. 
 
 LINE TO SOUTHAMPTON AND BREMEN. 
 
 Bremen Line. (North German Lloyd.} 
 
 This line, always the most popular of those be- 
 tween Germany and America, is making rapid strides 
 towards engrossing the whole transit through the 
 number, speed and excellence of their ships, and their 
 general management. The vessels now employed 
 are the large and powerful America, New York, 
 Hermann, Hansa, Bremen, Deutschland, Union and 
 "VVeser ; while no less than three others, the Ilhein, 
 Main and Donau, are nearly completed. They have 
 also a line, just established but promising to be very 
 popular, between Bremen and Baltimore. With a 
 brief average, there have been some remarkably short
 
 30 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 passages during the year as that of the Union, 
 eastward, in 9d. 10h., and the Weser, westward, in 
 9d. 3h. For passengers desiring to go direct to 
 Southampton and London, they offer the very first 
 attractions, combined with fine fare and most courte- 
 ous treatment ; and their growing popularity is no 
 matter of wonder. 
 
 FOB CALIFORNIA, CHINA, INDIA, AND "'BOUND THE 
 WOBLD." 
 
 A few hints have been promised, for that " 'round 
 the world " which used to be a wonder, will one day 
 be a common thing to do, and even now is entirely 
 and easily practicable ; and these hints are offered for 
 the consideration of tourists who may be induced to 
 ' ; broaden their views" when they are reminded how 
 much of the world they may manage to see in a 
 brief space; if they will but set about it. 
 
 It is known to perhaps a majority of persons, 
 that the Pacific Mail Steamship Company run a noble 
 fleet of first-class steamers on the Atlantic end of 
 their line (the Arizona, Henry Chauncey, Ocean 
 Queen, Xorthern Light, Ariel and Alaska), to Aspin- 
 wall, their passengers crossing by the Panama Rail- 
 way to Panama ; and that from Panama a second 
 fleet (the Colorado, Constitution, Golden City, Sa- 
 cramento, Golden Age, St. Louis and Montana) 
 carry them up the western coast and land them, 
 generally with the very best opinion of sea-going 
 and the company supplying the transit, at San 
 Francisco, in about 22 days. And a proportion of 
 the public, at least, are aware of the great enterprise
 
 STEAMSHIPS TO EUROPE, ETC. 31 
 
 recently inaugurated that with those steamers, at 
 Sau Francisco, connect yet another fleet, scarcely 
 less in number (the New York, Costa Rica, America, 
 Celestial Empire, Great Republic and Japan), land- 
 ing passengers at Yokohama, Japan, in about 26 
 days from San Francisco, or 48 from New York, 
 and at Hong Kong, China, in about 32, or 54 from 
 New York. 
 
 So much as this is pretty generally understood ; 
 but it is an interesting question how many persons 
 of means and the desire to travel, remember the 
 connections with this great line and the European 
 steamers already named, that may so easily be made, 
 and that coveted " 'round the Avorld " accomplished 
 within four to five months, or even in a less period if 
 connections happen to be hit throughout ! Say from 
 New York, by San Francisco to Hong Kong, as al- 
 ready noted. From Hong Kong by the British 
 Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamers, to 
 Point de Galle, Ceylon (where there is also an Aus- 
 tralian connection made, for those who desire it). 
 Point de Galle to Bombay, with an opportunity for a 
 brief glance at British East India, as there has be- 
 fore been at Japan and China. Then by the P. & 
 O. steamer again, to and up the Red Sea, to Suez, 
 with railway transit across Egypt to Cairo and 
 Alexandria. Thence by the connecting P. & O. 
 steamers from Alexandria to Marseilles (by Malta) ; 
 across France to the Channel, and homeward to New 
 York from Havre, Liverpool, Southampton or Glas- 
 gow, by some one of the European lines already 
 named.
 
 32 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 The contemplation is almost enough to take away 
 the breath ; but nothing in travel has ever equalled 
 that or the splendid reality; and how long before, 
 without waiting for the Pacific Railway (which the 
 Union Pacific people are hurrying through so rapid- 
 ly) how long before the hint is taken and acted 
 upon by hundreds who can well afford the time (the 
 four months) and the money (not over ($900 to 
 $1,000 gold), and who waste both in summer daw- 
 dling at home ? For it should be remembered that 
 the route may be precisely reversed, by those who 
 prefer first seeing Europe and that while life is 
 short, health transitory, and opportunities often pass 
 away unexpectedly, no such chance for " rounding 
 the circle of the globe," with little bodily fatigue, al- 
 most no danger, and the retention of luxury through- 
 out, has ever before entered into the calculation of 
 man.
 
 rv. 
 
 PREPARATIONS FOR " GOING OVER." 
 
 There may need to be another reminder that the 
 following paper, like some of the others to come af- 
 ter it, is especially intended for those who have never 
 before crossed the Atlantic, and that, consequently, 
 some of the advice tendered in it may seem very " A. 
 B. C-ish" to those who have already taken their degree, 
 however low a one, in the academy of travelling ex- 
 perience. To this the suggestion may properly be 
 added, that even some of those who have taken that 
 degree may find themselves none the worse for read- 
 ing over these hints, even if they do so to dissent 
 from them. An apology may need to be made, too, 
 for the direct and conversational style adopted in 
 this and some other papers ; the aim of the author is, 
 in this regard, to come as near as possible to the 
 words and manner that would be used in a personal 
 conversation, with one of the parties doing much 
 more than half of the talking. 
 
 One word as to the mode in which whatever of 
 " wisdom" may be here contained has been acquired. 
 Or let the words be two, and embody them, after the 
 mode of a late lamented dignitary, in a "little story." 
 Once upon a time, when the Shrewsbury river, in New 
 Jersey, was more of a throughfare for passenger- 
 steamboats than it is to-day, a "hard case" of a
 
 34 SHOET-TBIP GUIDE. 
 
 river boatman made application to the head of one 
 of the companies for the command of a new boat 
 just launched and about to be put into service. 
 "Why, good heavens!'' exclaimed the owner, throw- 
 ing up eyes and hands in astonishment, " what rea- 
 son can you possibly give for thinking that I would 
 trust you with a boat? Every one who knows you 
 knows that you have been ashore on every shoal and 
 mud-bank in the river, even when piloting for 
 others." " Precisely the reason why I am the man to 
 take command of the new boat !" replied the incor- 
 rigible. "I have been ashore, I believe, on every 
 shoal and mud-bank in the river ; consequence, I 
 know where they all are, now, and you see I can keep 
 clear of em." The application of which is, that the 
 writer has " been ashore" on most of the " shoals and 
 mud-banks" of rashness, ignorance and comparative 
 poverty, in his experiments at foreign travel, and 
 " knows where they are," now ! And if there are 
 some upon which he has not been ashore, he has seen 
 others stranded on them and laid up the experience 
 for himself and others. 
 
 1st. Decide whether you can afford time and money 
 to go at all, taking into consideration the before- 
 urged opportunities for economy. Also, decide 
 whether, in going, you leave too much of anxiety, 
 personal or pecuniary, for fair enjoyment ; for there 
 is an old adage about the absentee who " drags with 
 each remove a lengthening chain/' and there are 
 not charms enough, even in the natural scenery and 
 artistic glories of the Old "World, to make such a trip 
 "pay" when the heart or the business-powers must
 
 PEEPARATIONS. 35 
 
 be left at liorue. So much decided, and in the affirma- 
 tive, then 
 
 2nd. Having made tip your mind, stick to the reso- 
 lution. Arrange your time of going and make every- 
 thing work to accommodate that, not leave that to 
 accommodate itself to everything. Generally in this 
 as in everything else in life, too long anticipation is 
 not the healthiest or the most profitable, and a voy- 
 age not canvassed ovor for five years in advance is 
 likely to yield more pleasure than one submitted to 
 that length of speculation . Above all things, never 
 boast that you are going, when yon have merely 
 thought of going and made no definite decision, as 
 friends may remember the farce of " Ladies Beware !" 
 and Mrs. Vavasour's saying: " Lady Ossulton has been 
 talking of going to Italy ever since I can remember ; 
 if she intends to go, why don't she go ?" And there 
 is an instance on record of a young New Yorker of 
 good family, who went to Europe under the influence 
 of as much personal fear as he might have felt in go- 
 ing to his execution simply because, while trying to 
 "screw his courage to the sticking-point," he had 
 boasted of his intended trip until all his friends began 
 to make it, and him, a by-word, and the lady to whom 
 he was engaged finally declared that "if he didn't 
 go and thus prove that he was not afraid to do so, 
 she would never marry him until she was grayer 
 than Methusaleh's grandmother !" Rumor said that 
 he was on the point of being set ashore at Sandy 
 Hook, or taken off by the pilot-boat, after proceeding 
 down the bay, but that the fear of ridicule deterred 
 him and he made a voyage of continued torture, 
 
 4
 
 36 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 simply because be bad " declared bis intentions" too 
 widely. 
 
 3d. Having resolved upon time of going and prob- 
 able duration of trip, and selected tbe line of steam- 
 ers by wbicb tbe outward voyage is to be made (a 
 selection wbicb may be a little aided by tbe perusal 
 of another paper in tbis connection), do not permit 
 tbe paltry foDy of wisbing to keep a certain number 
 of dollars for a few days longer in pocket, to prevent 
 tbe early taking of a passage. Tbe best state-rooms 
 on any favorite steamsbip are bkely to be first taJien 
 up ; and even in tbe event of any accident occurring, 
 rendering an alteration of plans necessary, tbere is 
 rarely any difficulty in disposing of a well-located 
 berth, wbile most of tbe companies, at any time be- 
 fore tbe " eleveutb bpur," will transfer tbe passenger 
 from one steamer to a later one, if a cbange of time 
 is all tbe deviation from tbe original plan rendered 
 necessary. 
 
 4tb. If suddenly-occurring events bappen to bave 
 cbanged tbe calculation in tbe otber direction, and 
 tbe plan of going is formed almost at tbe very 
 moment wben some favorite steamer is about to sail, 
 never beed tbe stories so bkely to be told, tbat " the 
 .steamer is full and you cannot get a place !" Tbere 
 is nearly always room for " one passenger more," as 
 tbere is in an avenue-car, tbougb without the dis- 
 comfort ; and if tbe worst comes to tbe worst, it is a 
 very rare case wben some one of the officers of tbe ship 
 cannot be found ready to give up bis room for tbe 
 run, at tbe inducement of no-very-large addition to 
 the price of the passage-ticket. These are suggestions
 
 PREPARATIONS. 37 
 
 for extreme cases, however : as before said, passage 
 had much better be taken early, whenever possible ; 
 though Mr. William J. Florence, the actor, who makes 
 many and pleasant voyages across the Atlantic, has 
 the reputation of never engaging a berth until the 
 day of sailing, when he goes quietly on board, plumps 
 down his big trunk, and calmly advises the officers of 
 the ship that "he is going over, and the sooner they 
 arrange to find him a comfortable room, the less 
 trouble they will be likely to have !" a hint always 
 acted upon at once. 
 
 5th. In selecting berths, when a good opportunity 
 for choice remains, always .aim to get as near as pos- 
 sible to the midships of the vessel a consideration 
 of not much consequence to old voyagers with strong 
 nerves, but of great importance to landsmen, as every 
 foot of distance from the waist increases the amount 
 of motion in a heavy sea; and not only is the danger 
 of sea-sickness less amidships, but the chaiicos of 
 having sleep broken by the " pitch" of a " head" or 
 " following" sea are proportionably decreased when 
 so located. The same principle applies, in a less de- 
 gree, to the question of outside or inside rooms (those 
 inside or outside of the gangways). There is much 
 less effect from the "roll," in a "beam" sea, for those 
 occupying inner berths; but there is always much 
 less light for reading or any other purpose, and the 
 one advantage will probably balance the other, except 
 in winter passages, when the inner rooms are alto- 
 gether preferable. 
 
 6th. No guide-book, probably, ever contained a 
 hint of the advice to be embodied in this paragraph ;
 
 38 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 and yet there is no word of advice, of the whole, 
 more important. Unless that miserable being, a 
 "man of letters," and thus compelled to be always 
 reading there are few intending voyagers, male or 
 female, who will not be the better for a little " read- 
 ing up" as to the countries about to be visited. A 
 fresh glance at the atlas, to see how they He and the 
 relations which they bear to each other, is almost in- 
 dispensable, even to some of us who natter ourselves 
 (before we think the second time) that we learned 
 our geography and have kept pretty well up with it 
 ever since. And there is not one in fifty who would 
 not be the better qualified for enjoyment abroad, by 
 running over some comprehensive history of each of 
 the principal countries. To freshen up in English, 
 Scottish and Irish history, is almost indispensible on 
 the eve of a trip merely to Great Britain ; and the 
 same may be said, or very nearly, of French history, 
 especially that of Napoleon and the Revolution, if 
 the Channel is to be crossed for anything more than 
 the merest glance. For England, too, a running 
 over of Shakspeare is never out of place, whether 
 for London or Warwickshire; while some knowledge 
 of Scott's leading novels, the " Heart of Mid-Lothian," 
 "Bride of Lammermoor," "Rob Roy," &c., of the 
 "Lady of the Lake,'' and of Burns' simpler songs, 
 makes half the charm of a run over the Border and 
 through the Scottish Highlands ; and there is at 
 least policy in knowing something of Lever's novels 
 ("Charles O'Malley" and " JackHinton'') of Moore's 
 poems and some of the simpler legends and stories of 
 the peasantry, before setting foot in Ireland. This
 
 PREPARATIONS. 39 
 
 advice would not seem so far-fetched or of so little 
 consequence, had all readers heard what the writer has 
 done : people of wealth and supposed intelligence, on 
 the point of airing their money and position by Eu- 
 ropean tours, and asking friends, covertly, on the 
 very verge of departure, to " tell them some of the 
 most important things that had happened in England, 
 France and a few of them countries" or buttonho- 
 ling chance-met acquaintances, in the stable yard of 
 the Red Horse, at Stratford-on-Avon, to ask " who 
 that Shakspeare was, that the people made so much 
 fuss about? if he fit, or writ, which was it?" 
 
 7th. Avoid the nonsense which may be GO easily 
 put into the mind, of trying to learn any of the lan- 
 guages of the non-English-speaking countries to be 
 visited, in the brief space intervening between arrang- 
 ment and departure. Those who have some acquaint- 
 ance with French, German or Italian, as the case may 
 be, will be all the better and none the worse for 
 "rubbing up" as much as possible, through reading, 
 translation or conversation ; but for those who know 
 nothing of the languages, to attempt mastering them, 
 is simply nonsense. There are English-speaking peo- 
 ple, now, almost everywhere on the Continent Eng- 
 lish servants, guides, couriers, etc., and often English- 
 speaking landlords; and for those not linguists, the 
 beet plan is to arrange for joining company with those 
 who do speak the languages of the countries about to 
 be visited, or to depend upon chance-met speaking of 
 English. There are a certain set of enquiries and an- 
 swers, however, connected with buying tickets, taking 
 trains, hiring cabs, finding lodgings, making small
 
 40 SHORT- TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 purchases, discovering directions, etc., which may be 
 committed to memory without much trouble and 
 without the miserable affectation of supposing that 
 this is "learning a language;" and for the benefit of 
 those who prepare themselves to that extent, a few 
 of these phrases are set down, at the close of the 
 present volume, with their meanings in English, 
 and the instances in which they are likely to be found 
 useful. 
 
 8th. Another "rubbing up" is advisable though 
 not absolutely indispensible. Thousands of questions 
 about America, its physical appearance, wealth, work- 
 ing of government, industrial aspects, etc., are con- 
 stantly asked of Americans on their travels, supposed 
 to be of the average intelligence, by foreigners whom 
 they chance to meet; and it is decidedly pleasant as 
 well as proper, not to be three or four thousand 
 miles from home, unable to answer the simplest ques- 
 tions with reference to things at our own doors at 
 home. The more we know about our own land, the 
 more intelligent and agreeable travellers we shall 
 make, unavoidably; and in this connection, 
 
 9th. Throw overboard two false impressions, to- 
 gether, before embarking for Europe. Overboard 
 with the idea, at once, that the land you are leaving 
 is better than all others in every regard, so that no- 
 thing can be learned abroad; and with it give the go- 
 by to the alternative impression that we have nothing 
 worth asserting and even boasting about, and that 
 what you are to learn abroad will stand in place of 
 the previous experiences and prides of a life. Amer- 
 ica has many things, to-day (and the last pages of
 
 PREPARATIONS. 41 
 
 the present volume may be overhauled for reminders 
 of some of them, ) unequalled by the world and matters 
 of legitimate pride to her citizens ; then she has er- 
 rors and deficiencies which may well be corrected by 
 observations among older if not necessarily wiser 
 people. Every American, going abroad, should carry 
 with him all practical knowledge of his own land, 
 and all well-founded pride in it ; and at the same 
 time he should travel with eyes and ears open and 
 power to divest himself of ridiculous national vain- 
 glory prejudically shutting away all beyond. 
 
 And now to a few minor particulars, belonging to 
 the very eve of starting, and still important enough 
 to deserve place and number : 
 
 10th. Start with a confident expectation of return- 
 ing, and yet leave property-interests disposed of as 
 if no return was likely to be made. There is really 
 less danger, in a given number of clays, in going over- 
 sea than from Chicago to Boston, or New Orleans to 
 New York, by rail ; but European absences are gen- 
 erally longer than those on the American Continent, 
 except the latter involve California or the very far 
 South-west, or North-west ; and if we are commonly 
 neglectful, there is no reason why these instances 
 should not be an exception. " No man dies the sooner 
 for making his will," they say ; and certainly no man 
 travels less comfortably for leaving affairs at home in 
 such a shape, that if he does not return, his absence 
 will cause the least possible inconvenience to those 
 left behind. And in this connection, again, 
 
 llth. There is nothing wiser for the departing 
 " family man," whatever the status of those depend-
 
 42 SHORT- TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 ent upon him, than an investment in a moderate life- 
 assurance, with an additional, assurance against acci- 
 dent. Nothing of an earthly character (the religious 
 questions will naturally suggest themselves) adds 
 more comfort in a storm at sea, or danger in. some 
 distant land, than the reflection that there would 
 be at least one benefit from the risk terminating un- 
 favorably : the dear ones at home would be pecuniarily 
 the gainers by it. 
 
 12th. Arrange baggage compactly, and not too ex- 
 tensively. For each person (male the ladies will make 
 rules for themselves), one stout leather or wood-and- 
 leather trunk of 30 to 36 inches by 16 to 20 inches, 
 and one convenient valise for carrying in the hand, 
 is always sufficient, for anything less than carrying 
 over the whole personal effects with a view to resi- 
 dence. The trunk for deposit in the great cities, in 
 the event of expecting to return along the same line 
 if not, unavoidably to be carried along. The valise 
 for short excursions from those great centres, having 
 this advantage that it can be carried in the railway- 
 carriage or cab, (en voiture, as the French designate 
 it), while the trunk must be looked after, with trouble 
 and expense. Both trunk and valise should be plain- 
 ly marked, with name and residence initials not al- 
 ways enough for either safety or convenience. If the 
 trunk is small enough, for the sea-voyage, to find place 
 in the state-room, all the better ; if not, care must 
 be taken that before it goes into the hold all articles 
 are taken out from it that will be needed before land- 
 ing on the other side. The valise will always find 
 place in the state-room, of course. And tin's brings
 
 PREPARATIONS. 43 
 
 13th. The important question of clothing, in -which 
 the liberty will be taken of quoting from a work by 
 the same writer ("Over-Sea ") issued last year, a few 
 bracketed words being' added to the advice there em- 
 bodied : 
 
 " My point of view is for the male sex, but the fe- 
 male will find it easily varied to their requirements. 
 For crossing the North Atlantic, to return in [two or] 
 three months, the first requirement is a suit of thick 
 clothes, so old and valueless that one can lounge 
 upon the deck in them, with no fear of damage. 
 (Dandyism is at a discount, at sea a lesson quickly 
 and surely learned). Clothing thick, because sea air 
 is nearly always damp, and generally cold. Then as 
 thick an overcoat and gloves as can well be procured, 
 the use of which will become patent, either among 
 the fogs and possible icebergs of the Banks of New- 
 foundland, or 011 the Irish coast. A thick blanket, 
 or, what is still better, a rough buffalo-robe, to make 
 lounging upon deck the easier and warmer. For 
 even midsummer wear in England, Ireland and Scot- 
 land, a neat travelling-suit of thick cloth [stout Mel- 
 ton or cassimere, the best], which will scarcely ever 
 be found too warm ; while in all these a light sum- 
 mer overcoat [water-proof tweed, best] , will be found 
 a convenience, and often a necessity. For southward 
 of the British Channel, a suit of dark summer-cloths 
 or flannels, useful occasionally, but by 110 means to 
 be depended upon, and never to be worn without 
 heavy under-clothing. Heavy wool under-clothing 
 at sea, with courage enough to double it if comfort 
 so requires. A dress suit, if there is plenty of room
 
 44 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE, 
 
 in the trunk, not otherwise, as there is very seldom 
 occasion for it on a tour of this character [and for 
 full-dress occasions, purchase or hire is always avail- 
 able in the large cities where such a demand is likely 
 to arise]. Plenty of linen and white goods, to avoid 
 being at the mercy of the washer-women at times of 
 sudden transit, though the fact may well be remem- 
 bered, that all the latter description of goods can be 
 laid in much cheaper at Liverpool, London, or even 
 at Paris, than in America under the present regime. 
 * * A low-crowned tourist hat, of felt ; and for Eng- 
 land, (first of indispensibles), an umbrella." To this 
 list add a good opera-glass, almost indispensible, 
 both by sea and on land, for catching views rapidly 
 and correctly. 
 
 14th. Make such arrangements, if possible, that a 
 little longer absence than that contemplated, will not 
 work serious business or other inconvenience, as the 
 best calculator cannot always be quite sure of non- 
 detention through some influence or action beyond 
 himself. 
 
 15th. Arrange (as before suggested) to take a lit- 
 tle more money abroad than is supposed to be neces- 
 sary for either time or distance ; but 
 
 16th. Carry in actual money, (English gold, by far 
 the most convenient, except for going directly to 
 France then French gold, ) only so much as will pay 
 expenses on ship-board and last during the few days 
 that may happen to elapse before reaching the point 
 at which the first draft is made payable. All beyond 
 this should be taken either in bills-of-exchange on 
 bankers in one or more of the great cities to be vis-
 
 PREPARATIONS. 45 
 
 ited; or in circular letters-of-credit to corresponding 
 houses in those cities. Only the very first class of 
 banking houses, at home, should be dealt with, in 
 procuring exchange or letters-of-credit, if the painful 
 possibility of finding oneself abroad without funds, is 
 to be avoided ; and all information as to details can 
 be procured, as well as the funds, at any one of the 
 houses whose announcements are to be found at the 
 close of the present volume. 
 
 17th. Procure passports, by making application 
 to an authorized Notary or Dispatch Agent, at 
 least a week or ten days before the time of departure. 
 A separate passport is necessary for every adult male, 
 and for every woman travelling femme sole : when 
 husband, wife and minor children are travelling to- 
 gether, a single one is sufficient for all. In Great 
 Britain no passports are necessary, though, in the 
 present troubled Fenian days, they may at any time 
 be found convenient, and sometimes indispensible as 
 means of identification ; in France, of late, they are 
 seldom demanded, though the law requires them ; 
 beyond France, it is never safe to be without them, 
 in due form and properly vised ; and even in France, 
 if not demanded, they have their use in securing 
 certain privileges and furnishing some guarantee of 
 identity. 
 
 18th. Take some letters of introduction, when ten- 
 dered, and to the right persons ; but depend very lit- 
 tle upon them, except in some business point of view. 
 If there is sufficient influence to procure letters to the 
 American Secretaries of Legation at London, Paris, 
 &c., they may often be found valuable, as those Sec-
 
 46 SHOUT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 retaries generally do the wheel-horse work of the le- 
 gations, and may pay an amount of attention be- 
 neath the time or state of the Ministers. 
 
 19th. Create as little impression as possible, on the 
 verge of departure, of feeling that some event, mov- 
 ing half the world, is taking place in your first leaving 
 your native land. A sea-voyage, now, no further than 
 Europe, is about equivalent to a trip up the Sound to 
 Boston, fifteen years ago, and not much more than 
 was the transit across Sandy Hook Bay at the dis- 
 tance back of thirty or fifty years; and the observing 
 world is generally coming to regard it in that light. 
 
 20th and last. If possible, go on board before the 
 last moment of sailing, and have any heavy baggage 
 on board even earlier. Also, if possible, make any 
 extended tender farewells earlier and elsewhere than 
 on the crowded deck of a steamer, at the last mo- 
 ment, when everybody is in the way of everybody 
 else, when the officers naturally wish to throw over- 
 board all the whiners, and when there is a probabil- 
 ity of the grief of departure being added to by the 
 worry of having wife, sister, child or friend tumbled 
 into the dock in the sudden removal of the gang- 
 plank.
 
 V. 
 
 WHAT TO DO AND AVOID, ON SHIPBOARD. 
 
 THE advice in this paper, too, will be set down di- 
 dactically, and much of it will be considered A B C-ish 
 by those who have once or oftener crossed the Atlan- 
 tic. In the meantime, not even to some of them will 
 the maxims be foimd unprofitable, if attended to 
 judging by the very large number of habitual travel- 
 lers who seem to happen upon the very conditions of 
 discomfort and imprudence, as if seeking them. No 
 attempt will be made to arrange the items in groups 
 or any regular succession, though they will be num- 
 bered, for convenience, like those in the last paper. 
 
 1st. Perhaps the first condition of comfort in a 
 sea-voyage, is to avoid making up the mind as to any 
 positive time at which the voyage must be conclud- 
 ed. An old Dutch farmer, of Long Island, who some- 
 times gathered corn alone in a field of twenty or 
 thirty acres, being enquired of as to how he escaped 
 being discouraged at the prospect of finishing his la- 
 bor, replied that " he would be, if he thought of it ; 
 but he simply went in, each day, to do a day's work, 
 and in that way the field got finished, eventually, al- 
 most before he knew it !" To look across the three 
 thousand miles of the Atlantic, and think over the 
 days necessary to travel it, even on the swiftest ves- 
 sel, is rather discouraging than the reverse ; but by
 
 48 SHORT- TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 simply avoiding any definite calculation, and- consid- 
 ering the ship and her officers and crew as doing 
 their " day's work," the amount of impatience may 
 be very considerably reduced. Creeping ahead a lit- 
 tle every day, the whole voyage will soon be accom- 
 plished : that is enough to know and enough to feel,- 
 no matter what anxieties may be at the end. 
 
 2d. Perhaps the next desideratum is to avoid any 
 considerable anxiety as to the voyage being a pros- 
 perous one, by first remembering that more than an 
 hundred runs are made without a single accident, 
 and more than five hundred without the total loss of 
 a vessel, and then falling back upon that pleasant 
 recollection that you have not the affair in charge, 
 any way that (Providence over all and always to 
 be remembered, of course,) the officers and crew of 
 the ship have their duty to do and are very likely to 
 do it, for the sake of their own lives and the proper- 
 ty committed to their skill. It may be straining a 
 point, perhaps, but there is really some philosophy 
 in getting into the state of mind of the droll fellow 
 who settled up one of the " anxious " in a storm oft 
 the coast of Ireland, not many years ago. The storm, 
 which was very heavy, had lasted for days, and seem- 
 ed to be growing heavier and heavier, until the 
 " landsmen " began to doubt whether the ship could 
 live in such a terrible sea, and one of them approached 
 the model passenger and enquired : " What he 
 thought of it ? if the gale lasted much longer and 
 the sea rose much higher, wouldn't they founder ?" 
 " "Why, what the deuce is that to us ?'' replied the 
 droll. " Haven't you paid your passage ?'' " I ? cer-
 
 ON SHIPBOARD. 49 
 
 tainty !" " The company, then, have contracted to take 
 you from Liverpool to New York, for so many 
 pounds, haven't they?" "Of course they have but 
 what then ?" " What then ? Why, everything, then ! 
 You don't sail this ship you are a passenger ; and 
 it is their business, not yours, whether the ship sinks 
 or floats." This may not have much reassured the 
 frightened man, but it certainly silenced him ; 
 and there no doubt was more than a grain of ear- 
 nest in the old traveller's philosophy of remembering 
 that he did not steer the ship, as there was undoubted- 
 ly comfortable laziness in it. 
 
 3d. It is wise not to expect too much on ship 
 board, either in the way of luxury or even of positive 
 comfort. Ships, at the largest, are small as compared 
 with hotels, and at the steadiest are "shaky," as 
 compared to private dwellings, except when the lat- 
 ter have very St. Thomas earthquakes to throw them 
 off the perpendicular. Plenty of good food, respect- 
 able though confined sleeping-quarters, and attend- 
 ance fair but by no means that of a first-class hotel 
 these are all that ought to be expected ; and a very 
 little philosophy makes them enough. It has before 
 been said that "dandyism is at a discount, at sea ;" 
 so is, or ought to be, finickiness. What if neither 
 shaving, nor dressing, nor any of the other offices of 
 civilized life, can be done quite as well as at home ? 
 Nobody notices whether they are scrupulously per- 
 formed, or not ; and some of the neatest of men 
 when on shore, when they have become old travellers, 
 consent to be slovenly for those few days without se- 
 rious suffering. The golden rule on going to sea,
 
 50 SEOET-TEIP GUIDE. 
 
 is : Expect very little and be prepared to put up good- 
 humoredly with it ; then, if " all the modern conveni- 
 ences " should happen to prevent themselves, as is 
 not at all likely, they will afford double enjoyment, 
 and the want of them will not entail misery. 
 
 4th. Determine to be as jolly as health will allow, 
 and as companionable as is at all consistent with the 
 temperament. Join in all practical harmless amuse- 
 ments and exercises, with the result of making your 
 own days less tedious, and producing the same effect 
 on those of others. One jolly fellow, sometimes, seems 
 to leaven up a whole ship-load : one or two glum 
 faces act like a wet-blanket on all concerned. There 
 is a comradery in sea-going, scarcely second to that 
 of the army; and some of the pleasantest friendships 
 of years originate on the deck filled with comparative 
 strangers. Quoits, shovel-board, chess, draughts, 
 backgammon, social games at cards, all these supply 
 amusement to those who will take any of them ; and 
 there is room for any amount of table sociability, at 
 meals, not marred but rather increased by the little 
 accidents to which breakfasting or dining in rough 
 weather is certainly subject. 
 
 5th. Make friends, early, with the captain and other 
 officers of the ship, so far as they will permit ; but 
 take no liberties with them, and carefully avoid com- 
 promising any one of them who may have shown any 
 peculiar favor, by speaking of it to others of the ship's 
 cempany or passengers. Strictly observe those car- 
 dinal rales which forbid going upon the bridge, talk- 
 ing with the officers when on duty, or distracting the 
 attention of the quarter-masters at the wheel. Avoid
 
 ON SHIPBOARD. 51 
 
 getting in the way of tlie officers at the compasses, 
 or hindering them when engaged in that most impor- 
 tant event of the day " taking an observation." 
 Don't enquire, any oftener than is unavoidable, 
 where the ship is at any particular moment, what a 
 certain movement on deck means, what kind of 
 weather it is going to be during the next twenty-four 
 hours ; and don't ask the men, when they are heav- 
 ing the log, how many miles an hour the ship is go- 
 ing, or don't expect them to tell the truth if you do ! 
 Don't get in the way when hawsers are being over- 
 hauled or yards braced ; and don't wonder if, getting 
 in the way when some evolution of hauling ropes is 
 going on, you occasionally trip and so learn what 
 times and places are dangerous. Don't attempt to 
 "help," at any time, except in the rare event of an 
 accident ; and thus "keeping out of the way," with- 
 out losing any chance of observation and enjoyment, 
 secure the friendship of the officers, the respect of the 
 crew and the gratitude of all concerned. 
 
 6th. Make friends with the stewards, at once, not 
 only by treating them respectfully, but by speaking 
 to the two in charge of your particular table and 
 state-room requesting their attention and promising 
 them the due douceur at the end of the voyage. Half 
 a sovereign each to the saloon and lower-saloon stew- 
 ards, and say a crown to the " boots," with half-a- 
 crown for beer to the captain of the watch who first 
 " chalks " you when you break the rules of the ship 
 by going forward, and perhaps half a dozen shillings 
 to persons who do errands for you during the run 
 this, reaching eight to ten dollars altogether, is quite
 
 52 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 sufficient to grease the wheels of sendee and make 
 welcome then and afterwards. 
 
 7th. Avoid attempting to read much, at sea, how- 
 ever interest may tempt in that direction. There is 
 a motion and jar of the vessel, making the letters 
 swim and damaging head and optic-nerves to a de- 
 gree needing days for recovery. Some persons can 
 read steadily, almost without injury ; others cannot : 
 it is never best to try the experiment when it can be 
 avoided. And there is rarely much occasion: it is a 
 poor passage-list in which more amusement cannot 
 be found than in books, for the short period con- 
 sumed in crossing the Atlantic. 
 
 Sth. Keep on deck, all that is possible. Half the 
 charm of going to sea lies in the pure, fresh air, ex- 
 cept in very stormy whether. The air of lower- 
 cabins and state-rooms is necessarily more or less 
 confined, and consequently unhealthy ; while the 
 healthiest atmosphere in the world comes fresh to 
 the lungs from blue water. There is far less danger 
 of sea-sickness, too, on deck than below, when ac- 
 tual illness does not enforce confinement to the berth; 
 and the thousand sights and sounds of sea-life sun- 
 rises, sunsets, moonlight, storm-waves, whales, por- 
 poise-shoals, passing vessels, observations, log and 
 lead-heaving, making and taking in sail, signalling, 
 etc., are only to be enjoyed by those who keep the 
 deck as persistently as possible. The writer saw a 
 young lady go below, off the point of Sandy Hook, 
 in the summer of '65, and come up again for the first 
 time at Liverpool bar : she had the quietest passage over 
 of any one on the ship, but scarcely the most enjoyable!
 
 ON SHIPS AMD. 53 
 
 9th. Dress warmly quite as warmly as comfort 
 demands, and err on the safe side if at all. Sea-air, 
 though healthy, is damp and deceptive as to temper- 
 ature. Never mind the appearance; put on the 
 clothes. 
 
 10th. Take much exercise. Want of occupation 
 induces long sitting at table and hearty eating; and 
 the system must be a strong one which can endure 
 this for days, without exercise, and yet suffer no in- 
 jury. When there is not too much sea to make it 
 possible, at least a mile or two should be walked 
 every morning and a corresponding space in the af- 
 ternoon the long cleared decks, or the gangways, of 
 most of the best steamers, rendering this amusement 
 of exercise easy and convenient. 
 
 llth. Put confidence in the ship: believe, for the 
 time being, that the ship is the best afloat. If you 
 go down into the fire-room (which, by the way, is 
 quite as well kept out of), don't fall into the fancy 
 that so large a mass of fire in the midst of a vessel 
 must inevitably burn her: vessels are especially con- 
 structed to guard against that danger, and iron does 
 not take fire easily. Don't be alarmed at the noises con- 
 tinually coming from the fire-room, or think that some 
 calamity has happened there: firemen are normally 
 noisy as well as grimy, and they need to speak loudly, 
 to make themselves heard. Don't fancy, in short, 
 that everything will go wrong unless you attend to 
 it, except in one particular; and that is, 
 
 12th. Join the fire-police of the ship, and stick to 
 the organization. Take no combustible materials 
 below in your baggage neither matches or dangerous
 
 54 SHOEI-TEIP GUIDE. 
 
 chemicals; take no light of any kind below the decks, 
 for better reason than because there is a severe pun- 
 ishment for any proceeding of the kind the all-pow- 
 erful reason that such an act may destroy your own 
 life and the lives of others. On this point, watch your 
 own conduct and that of others, and no harm is like- 
 ly to result from the close surveillance. 
 
 13th. Never go forward when the ship is pitching 
 into a heavy sea : there is always danger of injury, in 
 such an experiment by a landsman, and very often 
 of being swept overboard, at times when even 
 sailors can scarcely keep footing on the wet and 
 slippery decks. Never stand at or very near the 
 taffrail (extreme stern ) hi correspondingly heavy 
 weather, as there is always danger of the ship "jump- 
 ing out from under you" an accident which some- 
 times happens to experienced seamen who stand un- 
 guardedly in that dangerous position. Never climb 
 upon the bulwarks, however calm the sea; for there 
 is no knowing at what moment there may be one roll 
 enough to finish your individual voyage or delay 
 the ship for the purpose of picking you up in a very 
 damp condition ! 
 
 14th. Never attempt to go up or down one of the 
 companion-ways (stairs), or along one of the gang- 
 ways, or the decks, when the sea is heavy, without 
 making as much use of the hands as the feet hold- 
 ing on firmly to the nearest convenient rail. Broken 
 ribs or limbs are sometimes the consequence of for- 
 getfulness or bravado, on this point. 
 
 15th. In the event of illness (other than sea-sick- 
 ness) don't take nostrums, or trust to anything in
 
 OiY SHIPBOARD. 55 
 
 your -private "medicine-chest." There is always one 
 surgeon, or more, on each ship; they are paid for at- 
 tending to the health of passengers, without charge 
 except for costly medicine ; they are particularly famil- 
 iar with the treatment prudent at sea; and it is very 
 often the case that medicines upon which dependance 
 can be placed when on the more stable element, 
 prove injurious in the abnormal condition of never 
 being entirely quiet. 
 
 IGth. If sea-sick, don't fancy the disease is a mor- 
 tal one. Few people die of it, though many (it is to 
 be feared) are rendered vastly uncomfortable. Keep 
 the bravest heart and the " stiff est upper-lip" possi- 
 ble, against the great foe; and above all, do not join 
 the noble army of those who ask to be mercifully 
 " thrown overboard" as a means of escaping the tor- 
 ture. Nobody dares obey the request not even your 
 worst enemy, who wishes that he could; and if it' 
 should be obeyed, the chances are ten to one that be- 
 fore you had gone down ten fathoms in blue water 
 the cry might be a very different one. 
 
 17th. Berths, in sea-going ships, are mostly single; 
 and yet it is best, especially in heavy weather, to have 
 a bed-felloic. This is easily found in the valise or well- 
 filled carpet-bag, which packed closely in against 
 the side-board, the would-be sleeper lying on the 
 side in the inner part of the berth, will generally en- 
 able him to lie without rolling, even when the ship is 
 doing her worst in that direction, and secure sleep 
 when it would be otherwise impossible from the con- 
 stantly-waking motion. 
 
 18th and more important than any of the pre-
 
 56 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 ceding. Remember, oftener than when the service is 
 read on Sabbath morning, that there is a Hand, wiser 
 and stronger than that of any officer of the ship, 
 ruling not only the vessel but the waves upon which 
 she rides and the winds and other elements which 
 may place her in peril
 
 VI. 
 
 LOOK-OUTS AND LAND-MAKINGS. 
 
 A LARGE part of this paper, like much of the last, 
 lias especial value for those who have never before 
 crossed the Atlantic, though it is possible that some 
 of the matter-of-fact information which it contains 
 may be found beneficial, if studied and remembered, 
 by many of those who have already been " chalked " 
 in one or more passages. 
 
 The advice to remain as long a proportion of the 
 time as possible on deck, at sea, has been given in 
 the previous paper ; and one of the motives has been 
 stated as the natural desire to see passing ships and 
 witness the novel details of the sea, the sky, and 
 ocean-life generally. This applies to the whole cross- 
 ing ; but there are especial look-outs to be kept when 
 leaving land, and yet more when approaching it, which 
 must not be neglected if one of the greatest pleasures 
 of the voyage is not to be lost. 
 
 No first-trip passenger needs urging, probably, to 
 " keep an eye out " for last glimpses of his native 
 land to see (if leaving New York, as do ninety-nine 
 one-hundreths) the blue Highlands of Navesink fade 
 gradually away under the evening light, the shores 
 of Long Island disappear, and to utter, in one shape 
 or another, that sentiment which Byron embodied 
 in 
 
 " My native land , good-night !"
 
 58 SHOET-TEIP GUIDE. 
 
 "We are all prone enough, without urging, to look a 
 little " spoonily " on the last speck of the land we are 
 leaving ; to think what changes and what accidents 
 may occur before we next set eye and foot upon it ; 
 and to feel, for a brief period, what they say that 
 nearly every man (and perhaps quite every ivoman') 
 feels on the morning after marriage a sort of inde- 
 finable -wish that they had waited. So these fare- 
 well points will be looked after, earnestly if not al- 
 ways understandingly, even if, as in the marriage 
 case, the feeling soon wears away and the attention 
 is engrossed by something that lies in the present 
 and future instead of the past. 
 
 There is not much of an out-look, connected with 
 the American coast, after getting fairly away from 
 port. There may be a glimpse of the light on Fire 
 Island, dropping behind, if the hour of departure has 
 been late ; and a day later there may be a flicker of 
 light or a distant view of the dark speck that supplies 
 it, on Nantucket shoals ; but that is all, as of the land 
 covered by the stars-and-stripes, and nearly all as of 
 the continent. In those days, already grown old, 
 when the steamers carried the news, there was a look- 
 out to be kept for the approach of Cape Eace, New- 
 foundland, where the last telegraphic intelligence was 
 to be picked up for carrying over. But all that is 
 changed by the cable, and Cape Eace is avoided 
 now, as entirely out of the calculation. Sometimes, 
 however, even avoiding that, there is the loom, to the 
 northward, when three days out from port, of a long, 
 low-lying line of coast, not much more than a rough 
 sand-bank, which is really Sable Island, at the south-
 
 LAND-MAKINGS. 59 
 
 eastern point of Nova Scotia. Bound to or by Hali- 
 fax, Le Have or Liverpool, (lights) are likely to be 
 the points first made, 48 to 50 hours from New York ; 
 and in that case, running up to Halifax harbor by 
 Sambro and Chebuctoo Heads, entering and leaving 
 it, there are many interesting glimpses of the rough 
 coast of Nova Scotia, and of one of the finest harbors 
 of the continent, well worthy of attention even, from 
 those who are soon to see the more-interesting shores 
 of the Old "World. Bound for Europe direct, now, 
 Sable Island, if seen at all, may be safely set down 
 as supplying the last peep at the Western Continent. 
 It is the approach to the European Continent which 
 naturally supplies the most interesting of look-outs 
 and land-makings to the American making his first 
 run over-sea. This is not the place to enlarge upon 
 the fact, so full of romance and feeling ; but small 
 prospect must there be of that man finding much en- 
 joyment in travel, who does not thrill at the first 
 sight of that Old World of history and long descent, 
 so different in every regard from the New. It is al- 
 ways pleasant to " make land," after the briefest and 
 pleasantest of sea- voyages, as many a man has fully 
 proved since the day when Columbus and his crew 
 watched so wearily for the West Indian Islands ; and 
 no number of times crossing the Atlantic takes away 
 the satisfied feeling at having done it once more. But 
 no man sees the same headlands with quite the same 
 eyes, twice ; and it is all the more important, for 
 that reason, that the approach to the European 
 coast, by whatever line and route it is made, should 
 not be lost by the traveller on his first voyage. Only 
 
 6
 
 60 SHORT- TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 less important is it that the old traveller, certain to be 
 enquired of by those who lack his experience, should 
 be able to answer their questions a little more readi- 
 ly and correctly than most non-sea-faring men find 
 convenient. 
 
 The preliminary understanding being established, 
 that when nearing the European coast, as shown by 
 the greening water, gulls, and increasing number of 
 vessels, the traveller should keep as bright a look-out, 
 by day or by night, as if the safety of the ship de- 
 pended on his vigilance berth to be quitted at night, 
 or table by day, the moment that " light " or " land " 
 is whispered this being understood, the following 
 somewhat-extended resume of the prominent points 
 made on approaching the Old World, by steamer, by 
 each of several different routes, will be found instruc- 
 tive as mere reading and highly-useful for reference 
 at the critical juncture. It should be remembered, 
 meanwhile, that the principal land-marks are light- 
 houses, or the head-lands or rocks which make them 
 necessary, and that if approached by night, the light 
 itself is the only object seen if by day usually a 
 white light-house with the surroundings indicated. 
 
 UP THE IRISH OB ST. GEOEGE'S CHANNEL TO LIVEKPOOL. 
 
 First point made, usually, on the Liverpool route, 
 are the sharp and dangerous-looking Skellig Kocks, 
 soon followed by Dursey Island, with the head-lands 
 and mountains of Kerry beginning to loom dirnly 
 behind them, on the extreme south-westerly point of 
 Ireland, the main-land adjoining being a mountain-
 
 LAND-MAKINGS. 61 
 
 ous tongue or peninsula, between Kenmare Bay on 
 the north, and Bantry Bay (scene of so many of the 
 invasionary landings of the French and others) on 
 the south. The point is worthy of especial notice, 
 from the fact that probably more voyagers from the 
 Western World have first looked upon Europe in 
 those little specks, than in any other one point of 
 view. The Skelligs He some fifty miles, and Dursey 
 Island and its "Bull," "Cow" and "Calf" rocks, 
 some thirty, north by west from Cape Clear, towards 
 which the course of the vessel is shaped from the mo- 
 ment of making them. 
 
 The next object of special interest, the coast being 
 rapidly approached and the mountains of Munster 
 beginning to loom, is Fastnet Rock, a pyramid rising 
 out of the water at some five or six miles from the 
 high, dark, rocky shore, just before reaching Cape 
 Clear the whole crowned with a white light-house, 
 and. the picture (by day-light) one of desolation sur- 
 rounded by a strange beauty. Here, and at the 
 doubling of Cape Clear (an island) immediately fol- 
 lowing, by taking Fastnet on the right and the Cape 
 on the left here the entrance is made into St. 
 George's or the Irish Channel ; and here, too, the 
 peculiar character of the green, treeless Irish high 
 lands may be observed, with first glimpses of the 
 bold rocky coast, with surf breaking white against it 
 the cabins from which Paddy emerges, nestling 
 among the hills the little round marteUo-towers 
 crowning them, speaking of smuggling prevention 
 and by-gone invasions the peculiar tan-colored- 
 sailed fishing-boats, and luggers that fly about like
 
 62 SEOET-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 sea-gulls, the vessels (steamers and others) drop- 
 ping into and out of the Channel, etc. 
 
 It is at near Cape Clear, and after passing the bold 
 head-land of Mizen Head, near a little hamlet called 
 Crookhaven, snugged away behind the hills, that the 
 telegraph station is located, at which arriving ships 
 are reported ; and it is from this place, really, that 
 the announcements are made of steamer-arrivals at 
 Queenstown. 
 
 Beyond this, and commencing to run up the Irish 
 coast, the next point of any importance, reached with- 
 in a few miles, is the bluff headland, crowned with a 
 light, known as the Old Head of Kinsale, and doubly 
 famous as the spot where the American packet Al- 
 bion was lost many years ago, with so large a num- 
 ber of passengers (among whom was Napoleon's 
 Marshal Lefebvre, Duke of Dantzic) and as the 
 place which gives name to the one nobleman, the 
 Baron of Kinsale, who is allowed to wear his hat in 
 the presence of the British sovereign, that favor hav- 
 ing been accorded the family many generations ago. 
 as a reward for a Baron of Kinsale having overcome, 
 by his personal strength and prowess, a continental 
 champion who overcame all others. 
 
 It is perhaps an hour after passing Kinsale, that 
 Daunt's Rock and its bell-buoy are reached near 
 the entrance to Queenstown harbor, and the spot on 
 which the fine steamer City of New York was lost a 
 few years since, though without any sacrifice of life. 
 Five miles beyond, Roche's Point thrusts out, with 
 its light, forming the southern lip cf Queenstown 
 harbor (Cove of Cork) not unlike the New York
 
 LAND-MAKINGS. 63 
 
 Narrows in general conformation. Here, in fine 
 weather, a steani-teiider takes off passengers and 
 mails for Queenstown and Ireland generally, while 
 the ship merely stops power and lies off the harbor 
 long enough to discharge the two kinds of " baggage." 
 Sometimes, when the weather is rongh and transfer 
 more difficult, the ship steams into the harbor (as 
 she always does to take on mails and passengers 
 when coming west) ; and then, whether entering to 
 land or come out again, a view is caught of a very 
 handsome land-locked harbor, rather narrow of en- 
 trance but very commodious w T ithiu, with the town 
 of Queenstown (so named in place of the old " Cove 
 of Cork," in honor of the Queen's visit, fifteen to 
 twenty years ago,) lying on the sloping hill at the 
 back or north-west extremity, and the beautiful 
 river Lee sweeping round behind it, south-westward, 
 to the city of Cork, which lies at some miles dis- 
 tance. 
 
 Supposing that the passenger does not land at 
 Queenstown, and that he comes out of or away from 
 the harbor with the ship (the Channel-pilot now on 
 board) the next prominent point made is the rocky 
 island and Light of Ballycotton; then that of Mine 
 Head; then the Hook Tower (nearly off Waterford) ; 
 then Conigsbeg Light-ship; and finally the tall white 
 light of Tuskar, w r hich concludes the run directly up- 
 Channel. 
 
 So far, the Irish coast has been kept very near, the 
 character of its scenery widely varying from bold 
 and barren to low and fertile, and distant glimpses 
 of mountains almost all the while. But from Tuskar
 
 64 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 the ship " squares away" across the Channel towards 
 Holyhead and Liverpool, and the Irish coast is soon 
 lost to view, through the Wicklow Mountains linger 
 long on the sight. 
 
 It is ten to twelve hours after leaving Tuskar, gen- 
 erally, when the bold, rocky headland of Holyhead, 
 in Wales, is made, ahead to the right, with its strange 
 cleft and bridged rock, its white light-house, and the 
 wonderful break-water defending the harbor. Be- 
 yond that point, and curving round it south-east- 
 ward towards Liverpool, the high Welsh Jancls are 
 seen to be thrifty farms, with neat farm-housea and 
 many wind-mills. Behind, the far Welsh mountains 
 rise; and in very clear weather distant views are 
 caught of the peaks of Snowdon and others of the 
 highest mountains in the southwest of Great Britain. 
 An object of great interest is found, not long after 
 passing Holyhead, in the piles of rocks known as the 
 Skerries, two or three miles from the Welsh shore 
 of course dangerous and lighted. Then come, as 
 prominent points on a coast all rough and bold, 
 Point Lynas, the pilot-station of Liverpool; and Great 
 Ornie's Head, a rough promontory, with one of the 
 most powerful Fresnel lights in the world. Glimpses 
 may be caught of little Welsh villages nestled at the 
 feet of the high lands, and Llandudno and some of 
 the other watering-places. 
 
 But the mouth of the Mersey and Liverpool are al- 
 most in view. Vessels, bound out and in, steamers, 
 bound to and from Channel ports, odd-looking steam- 
 tugs (to an American eye) and odder-looking pilot- 
 boats, all begin to thicken, and the evidence is plain
 
 LAND-MAKINGS. 65 
 
 of approach to the most important seaport of either 
 continent. The Northwest Light-ship is the first 
 point marking the nearer approach; then the great 
 Bell Buoy on the bar clangs its warning as it rocks 
 and rolls; then Formby and Crosby Light-ships are 
 passed; at the right the Rock-Light at New Brighton, 
 nearly opposite the city, closes the list; and the pas- 
 senger is within view of the forest of masts and the 
 wonderful long line of docks, showing on the left and 
 revealing the great port and city of Liverpool. 
 
 It may be proper to say, here, and the truth ap- 
 plying to other places as well as this that the ap- 
 proach to the port should never be I oat, especially if 
 there is daylight in which to catch it. Many do lose 
 it, in the anxiety to look after baggage, change cloth- 
 ing, etc., but this should never be done. Baggage 
 should have been looked after, if at hand, before; 
 that in the hold can be looked after as it comes up, 
 when the ship is at anchor; and there is no occasion 
 whatever of coming out in " full fig" in the Avay of cos- 
 costume, until reaching the hotel and washing off the 
 grime of the voyage. 
 
 Once more : travellers who desire both to learn 
 and enjoy, should never permit themselves to lose 
 the first approach to any new coast or any great 
 port, even if a little broken rest and discomfort 
 should be found necessary to secure it. In no other 
 way can the general situation and bearings be so 
 well attained, and to miss the opportunity once may 
 lie to miss it finally.
 
 66 SHOUT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 UP THE BRITISH CHANNEL TO SOUTHAMPTON OB LONDON. 
 
 The Irish coas t is not made at all on the voyage to 
 London or Southampton. The first point sighted, 
 if no error occurs in calculation, will be found the 
 Scilly Rocks small islands, with the light on St. 
 Agnes, the largest of them, a little south of the Land's 
 End (Cornwall) the extreme southwestern point of 
 England at all times a dangerous point, and pain- 
 fully famous in history as the spot where the whole 
 fleet of Sir Cloudesley Shovel, the English admiral, 
 was ground to pieces and all hands perished, in the 
 terrible gale of November 26, 1703, said to 'be the 
 heaviest ever known in England, destroying the Ed- 
 dystone Lighthouse, burying the Bishop of Bath and 
 Wells under the ruins of his palace, wrecking and 
 drowning eight thousand sailors, blowing down seven- 
 teen thousand trees in Kent alone, and eliciting a 
 description from Defoe, the author of " Robinson 
 Crusoe.'' 
 
 The next point, some three hours later, is the ap- 
 pearance at the left of the high bluff and light of the 
 Lizard Head (commonly spoken of as the "Lizard 5 ') 
 the first glimpse of the main land of Great Britain. 
 In some two or two-and-a-half hours after, if the 
 weather be particularly fine, a distant glimpse may 
 be caught, far away to the left, of either the tower or 
 light of Eddystone Lighthouse, perhaps the most 
 noted erection of its class in the world standing on 
 a single rock, miles from the shore, dashed against 
 by the sea in every storm, two or three times earned 
 away and rebuilt, and one of the best existing proofs
 
 LAND-MAKINGS. G7 
 
 of man's power and determination in fighting wind 
 and wave. The next light and land mark are those 
 of the Start Point, reached within the next one-and- 
 a-half hours ; and the next and far more important, 
 is the Bill of Portland, (so named from its resem- 
 blance to the bill of a bird) about forty miles beyond, 
 and stretching out from below Dorchester and Wey- 
 mouth. 
 
 From this point, if on the way to Southampton, 
 land is scarcely lost again, as very soon comes St. 
 Albans Head, at the other or eastern extremity of 
 Weymouth Bay, of which, and most of the other 
 points made on the w r ay up-Channel, it is almost need- 
 less to say, to those at all acquainted with geogra- 
 phy, that the prevailing character of the coast is 
 bold, rough and rocky, with chalk (giving name to 
 the "white cliffs of Albion") commencing to show 
 freely and never losing that appearance until the 
 mouth of the Thames is really entered. Not long 
 after leaving St. Albans Head, the appropriately- 
 named Needles and their light are made on the 
 west point or head of the turtle-shaped Isle of Wight, 
 forming the south lip of the sound between Wight and 
 the main, called the Solent. Up the Solent, then, 
 with the beautiful wooded and villa-studded island on 
 the right and the main land on the left, and sheering 
 sharp to the left or north-and-by-west when off 
 Cowes and its roads, (the right flipper of the turtle) 
 catching a distant glimpse of Portsmouth, Gosport 
 and the great naval station of Spithead, at the right 
 not much of additional interest remains, except the 
 first shore-views of fertile Old England, until the
 
 68 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 twenty or thirty miles of Southampton -water are 
 measured, and all the aspects before noted in the ap- 
 proach to Liverpool are more or less duplicated in 
 nearing Southampton, a great seaport in and of it- 
 self, and still greater as supplying a cross-country 
 and railway port to London. 
 
 If the destination is London instead of Southamp- 
 ton, all the points before named are made, up to 
 Portland Bill and possibly St. Albans Head, after 
 which the next, instead of the Needles, on the west, 
 is St. Catherine's, on the extreme south point of the 
 Isle of Wight (the left flipper of the turtle as Cowes 
 was the right). 
 
 There is a long stretch of Channel running between 
 St. Catherine's and the next point made on the Lon- 
 don route Beachy Head, twenty or thirty miles be- 
 yond Brighton, and famous for the allusions to its 
 height made by the British sailors in the old nautical 
 romances, who had a habit of speaking of anything 
 extra large as " looming like Beachy Head in a fog." 
 The chalk cliffs have now assumed such height and 
 prominence that the whole coast, whenever seen, 
 seems to be entirely white and perpendicular, though 
 there is really an increase in their height until past 
 Dover. The next prominent point after Beachy Head, 
 is Dungeness; and very soon after passing this head, 
 first Folkestone and then Dover may be seen at a dis- 
 tance, while to the right the French coast breaks into 
 view, lower than the English though something like 
 it in boldness and chalky character. 
 
 The South Foreland is made and passed at near 
 Dover, aud the Channel then becomes the Downs
 
 LAND-MAKINGS. G9 
 
 those waters commemorated in the old song of 
 "Black-Eyed Susan:" 
 
 " All in the Downs the fleet was moored, 
 Their streamers waving in the wind," &c. 
 
 After Dover, Deal, Kamsgate (celebrated as the 
 greatest of all summer-bathing-places of the middle 
 classes) ; then the North Foreland and those Good- 
 win Sands on which so many ships have been 
 wrecked and so much of life and property lost in the 
 terrible quick sands. Hounding the North Foreland, 
 comes Margate, the rival of Ramsgate in summer- 
 bathing and boarding; and at this point the Channel, 
 or Downs, becomes the Nore, actually the broad 
 mouth of the Thames, though many miles are yet to be 
 traversed before the Thames proper is entered and 
 the ascent commenced at Sheerness, by the great 
 Chatham Dockyards, Gravesend, Deptford, "Woolwich, 
 &c., points which may properly be said to belong to 
 London proper and its environs, and consequently out 
 of the province of this paper. 
 
 TO GLASGOW, BY THE " NOKTH ABOUT." 
 
 Nearly all the steamers bound from America for 
 Glasgow, direct, now-a-days, take the course known 
 as the "North About" pass around the north of 
 Ireland instead of making it at the south end and 
 passing up through the Irish Channel. Their port 
 of call, in Ireland, is Moville, the port of Londonder- 
 ry, in the entreme north; and the points made and 
 the courses pursued are briefly as follows, before and 
 after touching at Moville:
 
 70 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 The first European land made, by this route is 
 Tory Island, on the extreme northwest coast of Done- 
 gal. Then with perhaps a distant glimpse of the ter- 
 ribly rocky and threatening main-coast, at Malta Head, 
 the next point is the Island of Instrahull, off the ex- 
 treme northern extremity of all Ireland. Then, com- 
 ing southward, Glengall Head is made at the right, 
 with Innishowen Head not long after and forming 
 the north lip of the entrance to Loch Foyle, on which 
 stands Londonderry. 
 
 Moville, a tumble-down old town, stands just be- 
 hind Innishowen; and beautiful views of the peculiar 
 northern Irish scenery, and over the broad Loch, or 
 bay, may be caught from the anchorage off the town. 
 Here conveyance is taken to Londonderry, and rail 
 thence southward, by passengers leaving the steam- 
 ers. 
 
 Leaving Moville, for Glasgow, the course is nearly 
 northeastward, for a time, leaving the Giant's Cause- 
 way at no great distance on the right, until Rathlin 
 Island is made ; then the bold promontories of the 
 Mulls of Kinnoul and Cantire are passed, again on 
 the left; then Sanda Island, at the southeastern ex- 
 tremity of Cantire. From this point the passage is 
 sometimes made through the Sound of Kilbranna, be- 
 tween Cantire on the left and the rocky, treeless, 
 heath-covered island of Arran on the right, while 
 much oftener the run is made up the right side of the 
 island of Arran, in which latter case, especially, a pecu- 
 liarly fine view is caught, in fine weather, just opposite 
 Sanda and some distance away to the right, of Ailsa 
 Craig, one of the most remarkable of all the projec-
 
 LAND-MAKINGS. 71 
 
 tions of this beautifully wild coast. Ailsa lies at per- 
 haps twenty miles distance from the Mull of Caiitire, 
 eastward, and about fourteen or fifteen from Sanda; 
 it rises a fearful mass of rock, more than a thous- 
 and feet above the sea that breaks white at its base, 
 cone-shaped and apparently inaccessible, while thous- 
 ands upon thousands of wild fowl make it their nest- 
 ling-place, wheel, circle and scream around it the 
 scene one always remembered by the traveller who 
 has witnessed it. 
 
 Assuming that the run is made eastward, up the 
 east side of Arran, (the westward passage through 
 the Sound of Kilbranna having little interest until 
 the north end of the island is rounded and Bute 
 comes into view, as in the route now to be noted) 
 the next point of interest, after passing Ailsa Craig, 
 is Pladda light, on a little rocky island at the south- 
 east point of the island of Arran; and then Arran is 
 for some time in full view at the left (its characteris- 
 tics of scenery before mentioned) until the attention 
 is distracted by Holy Isle, another of its small islets, 
 larger than Ailsa Craig and almost as wild looking. 
 Lamlash harbor and Brodick towrt and watering- 
 place, are both passed on the left, on Arran ; then 
 come the small and rocky Cumbrae Islands, with 
 light, on the right, with the Isle of Bute on the left, 
 much softer and better cultivated than either Arran 
 or the mainland previously passed. Toward light 
 comes next, on the sound called the Kyles of Bute, 
 between Bute and Toward. 
 
 The remainder of the brief passage up the now-en- 
 tered Filth of Clyde, to Greenock, may probably
 
 72 SHORT- TEIP GUIDE. 
 
 vie with the approach to any port in the world. 
 For the scenery, on both sides, is softened and beau- 
 tiful ; and ahead, at a distance, the Highlands 
 of Perthshire lift themselves in fine weather, Ben 
 Lomond crowning all. On the left, half way from 
 the Kyles to the mouth of the Clyde, Dunoon water- 
 ing-place shows picturesquely at the left, with Clough 
 light at the right and the Gaunt Duck Rocks and 
 beacon just off Dunoon. Then Kempach point is 
 passed to the right, and Gouroch; and the smoky, 
 manufacturing, ship-building town of Greenock is 
 seen at the right or south bank of the Clyde River, 
 where it empties into the Firth and forms Greenock 
 Roads, lying at the foot of the Whin Hills (whence 
 its frequent rains), with the watering place of Helens- 
 burg on the opposite promontory, between Loch 
 Long on the left and the little Gare Loch on the 
 right up the latter of which, for some reason not 
 yet explained, all the Clyde-built ships always go to 
 adjust their compasses ! At which point the pro- 
 vince of the present paper ceases. 
 
 UP THE BRITISH 'CHANNEL (FRENCH SIDE) TO BREST AND 
 HAVRE. 
 
 The first point ordinarily made, on this route, is 
 Ushant, a very high rocky island with lighthouse 
 crowning a literal pile of rocks, on the extreme north- 
 western corner of France (Brittany). Thence the 
 course is about southeast, three or four miles, to the 
 entrance of the harbor of Brest, displaying the usual 
 long high piers and shut-in port, usual to French 
 Channel towns, with the addition of very extensive
 
 LAND-MAKINGS. 73 
 
 and formidable fortifications. Here passengers who 
 wish to hurry direct to Paris, land and proceed by 
 rail, only some six or eight hours being consumed in 
 reaching the capital. 
 
 Proceeding onward from Brest to Havre, how- 
 ever, by ship, Ushant is again made, and rounded to 
 the north and west. Some five hours later, steering 
 almost due east, the island of Guernsey is sighted at 
 the right an island of singular conformation, with 
 little wood, high in the centre and drooping at either 
 end. In good weather, Alderney, another and yet 
 smaller island, will be sighted next, at the right ; 
 while it is only in exceptionally clear weather that the 
 island of Jersey, lying further behind, comes into 
 view. 
 
 Some three or four hours after passing Guernsey, 
 Cape La Hogue comes in sight, famous for one of the 
 great naval battles the cape backed by very high 
 bluff lands, while the light stands low. Cherbourg 
 is made next, some three or four miles beyond La 
 Hogue; and in a good atmosphere a very fine view of 
 its great breakwater (one of the finest in the world) 
 and immense and formidable fortifications, may be 
 caught, as also of the distant heights which relieve 
 the low character of the coast. 
 
 After Cherbourg the next point made is Cape Levi, 
 showing the peculiarity of two lighthouses, one 
 above the other. Then Cape Barfleur, with very 
 high lighthouse on long peninsula, while the grounds 
 behind rise high at a little distance. Next, in fine 
 weather, Cape La Hague is seen, the course being 
 now nearly southeast-by-south. Then Cape La Heve,
 
 74 SHORT- TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 with two lights on the top of a formidable and al- 
 most perpendicular hill ; then, and finally, about three 
 miles from La Heve, the opening of the splendid port 
 of Havre, one of the oldest and finest in France, with 
 its long pier, light-house at end, and other charac- 
 teristics before noted as common to all French Chan- 
 nel ports. Here (at the mouth of the Seine) a splen- 
 did old city presents itself, with a strange blending 
 of commercial and historical importance ; and here 
 again, rail communication opens to Paris and the 
 opportunity for continental rambling generally.
 
 VII. 
 
 ENTERING FOEEIGN COUNTEIES. 
 
 . THERE are a few pieces of advice to be given to 
 short-trip travellers, Avith reference to entering for- 
 eign countries, highly important if very brief. 
 
 Stepping off the ship that has borne the Ameri- 
 can abroad, he should heed one especial dictate of 
 prudence to remember that he is abroad, not neces- 
 sarily beyond the protection of his own flag (though 
 a little too often), but where governments different 
 from, his own hold sway, and where much is to be 
 lost and nothing gained by mixing himself up with 
 the local quarrels of any one of those nations. He 
 may have allowed himself to talk Fenianism, or 
 ultra-British hatred of the idea of Irish nationality, 
 on ship-board, up to the very hour of landing 
 though even then he had often better kept silence, 
 to guard against spying that may place him under 
 suspicion after landing; but be that as it may, from 
 the moment of touching any foreign soil, if he is a 
 prudent man, he will " keep his tongue between his 
 teeth " as to what he believes to be wrong or right, 
 governmentally, in the countries visited. He may 
 believe, say, in the propriety of setting " the Green 
 above the Red " at as early a day as possible ; but 
 that is no i - eason why he should utter imprudent 
 words, on landing at Queenstown or' Belfast, calcu-
 
 76 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 lated to get him into just such scrapes, all the way 
 from mere temporary arrest to imprisonment and 
 possible trial, as scores of Americans have run 
 into, without really meaning anything, during the 
 troubled years since 1865. If he should happen to 
 be " down on the Irish," there is no greater reason 
 why he should declare his faith too loudly and run 
 the risk of getting mauled or killed by the hottest of 
 the descendants of Brian Boroihme. 
 
 When in England, too, no absolute necessity ex- 
 ists for abusing the Queen and vaunting the superi- 
 ority of American institutions, in a manner calculated 
 to work discomfort to others and inconvenience to 
 self; beyond the Channel, on French soil, even if 
 Napoleon the Third is believed to be a tyrant, it is 
 wiser not to say as much Avhere a government spy 
 may hear and heed at any moment ; and the same 
 remark will apply, even more forcibly, to touring in 
 any of the other monarchical countries of Europe, 
 Prussia, Austria, Italy, Spain, etc., not to mention 
 Russia, the most dangerous of all. In one country 
 Switzerland, itself a republic, republicanism can be 
 talked with both safety and pleasure ; and it is pru- 
 dent to run over to the Alps for the purpose of " let- 
 ting off steam " in that direction, if the pressure be- 
 comes too great for safety. 
 
 There is another thing to be avoided, commen- 
 cing iu Ireland and scarcely ending throughout Eu- 
 rope. Most of the European countries likely to be 
 visited by short-trip Americans, are Catholic, and all 
 of them (Great Britain not excepted) part-Catholic. 
 Most Americans who go over are either Protestants
 
 ENTERING FOREIGN COUNTRIES. 77 
 
 or Nothingarians no lovers of Catholicism, either of 
 the classes ; and the hal>it is somewhat too general 
 of speaking disparagingly of the forms of the Cath- 
 olic worship, and of the Catholics themselves, under 
 the root's of their magnificent edifices, within which 
 are gathered many of the very objects of art most 
 strongly calling the traveller's attention and afford- 
 ing him most delight. This course is unwise, in one 
 point of view, and cruel in another: unwise, as it in- 
 volves ill-feeling and possible personal discomfort 
 cruel, as it needlessly pains others who hold differ- 
 ently. It is rudeness as well as folly to go into any 
 Church, in. any land, without, while remaining there, 
 observing its rules of conduct and refraining from 
 any offensive act or comment. " If things do not 
 suit you, here, well enough to allow you to act as 
 gentlemen and friends while here, be kind enough to 
 remain away ! " might be very often said, with pro- 
 priety, to those Americans who start out from home 
 with the determination to insult the world if they 
 cannot proselyte it. 
 
 So much for the preparation of conduct, on enter- 
 ing foreign countries. Of another preparation that 
 involving a proper understanding of American nation- 
 al resources and due knowledge what in American 
 institutions can and cannot be improved something 
 has already been said. And it only remains to deal 
 a moment with one or two of the national regula- 
 tions connected: with persons and property, some of 
 which may be vexatious while all must Jbe submitted 
 to with the best grace possible. 
 
 The advice has already been given have pass-
 
 78 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 ports, useful in all countries, indispensable in some. 
 In some of the European countries they will be de- 
 manded at short intervals by government officials, 
 taken away to be vised (examined and compared), 
 and sometimes kept longer than may seem necessary 
 to the traveller. For this there is but one rule : give 
 them up calmly, and wait with what patience can be 
 summoned. The arrangement is not, as it may ap- 
 pear at the first glance, a personal insult to you : 
 others suffer in the same manner, and live through 
 the suffering. 
 
 Again, in all the despotic countries a require- 
 ment will be made, immediately after registering at 
 the hotel, for the name of every member of the party 
 (at least every male) age, place of birth, country, 
 habitual residence, occupation, last previous stopping- 
 place, and the number of the room to be occupied ! 
 All this to be communicated to the police, immedi- 
 ately ; and it really does seem quite the equal of any 
 inquisitiveness displayed even among the sharpest 
 Yankees of the Eastern States. Nothing is gained by 
 swearing over the espionage, however ; and suspicion 
 may be excited by any reluctance, when there is no 
 ground whatever: "when in Rome, do as Rome 
 does," even to obeying the police in the most absurd 
 of their requirements. It may even happen that 
 before leaving the city you are advantaged by the 
 record, in the recoverv of something lost or the de- 
 
 W O 
 
 tection of some wrong to yourself. 
 
 As to taking in baggage, at the ports or on cross- 
 ing the frontiers of different countries. Very large 
 amounts of baggage require very large amounts of
 
 ENTERING FOREIGN COUNTRIES. 79 
 
 examination by the various custom-house authorities, 
 unless golden spectacles are put on their 'eyes, when 
 they generally see with great readiness and do not 
 always tumble out the bijouterie as well as the dirty 
 linen. From America, not many things likely to be 
 carried in a trunk are dutiable at the European ports, 
 except liquors, perfumes, cigars and tobacco. Of the 
 first two there is no occasion to carry any through a 
 foreign custom-house ; they have better than we, at 
 all times. As to cigars, tastes differ; at all events 
 there is not much to be gained, either in cost or qual- 
 ity, by carrying more than the few (of which the 
 officers of any ship will advise the passenger) allowed 
 by law without duty. Tobacco is different, how- 
 ever: there is no decent tobacco in Europe, except as 
 Americans carry it over; and inveterate tobacco- 
 users should take plenty, and either prevent its quan- 
 tity being known, by the use of those golden specta- 
 cles^ or pay duty, on the overplus, like men and citi- 
 zens of that great nation which can certainly out- 
 chew and out-expectorate the wide world ! 
 
 In passing from one European country to another, 
 whether by crossing the Channel or a mere frontier, 
 there are constant vexatious stoppages. But they 
 can be endured, too, pretty easily, if the rule is al- 
 ways observed to have the baggage ready for exam- 
 ination ichenever approaching a custom-station, so 
 that if it is wanted no time will be wasted, and if it 
 is not, nothing will be lost. It really seems, some- 
 times, that the delays occasioned will lose the con- 
 necting trains, but such things never occur. Avoid 
 having anything contraband; have keys ready and
 
 80 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 instantly unlock when ordered ; make no attempts 
 at concealments that if detected would cause trouble ; 
 and so may the terrible douaniers of the Continent 
 be passed with comparative ease, safety and celerity. 
 Close mouths, as to imprudent topics ; observant 
 eyes and ears, as to everything occurring ; constant 
 but judicious bribery, believing none to be above 
 the temptation ; and good temper under all circum- 
 stances these are the four rules of travel in foreign 
 countries; and with them, and advice previously 
 embodied, there can be no excuse for detaining the 
 short-trip traveller a moment longer from the com- 
 mencement of his sight-seeing and adventure.
 
 VIII. 
 
 SHOET TEIPS IN IRELAND. 
 
 ASSUMING that advice previously given will be 
 often taken, and that the greater proportion of short- 
 trip travellers, on their first voyage, will leave the 
 steamer at Queenstown, on the Liverpool route, it 
 will be proper first to take a hurried peep at Ireland, 
 reminding the reader that the commencement is at 
 the extreme south, working northward, and that 
 those who cross from Scotland to Belfast or other 
 ports in the north, to take homeward passage from 
 Queenstown, need only to reverse the paper to derive 
 the same advantage. Another reminder may also 
 be given, entering upon the legitimate business of 
 a guide, ashore that much ground is to be gone 
 over, in this and succeeding papers, and that conse- 
 quently the glances at different places must be of 
 the briefest. 
 
 QUEENSTOWN TO CORK AND KILLAENEY. 
 
 QUEENSTOWN, the port of landing from the steam- 
 er, has little to commend it to the attention of trav- 
 ellers, except the fine harbor which it supplies to 
 Cork. The harbor and fortifications are well de- 
 serving the view they are certain to receive, espe- 
 cially from those who there first set foot in Ireland. 
 The town lies somewhat strao'S'lincrlv at the west 
 
 ~
 
 82 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 side of the harbor, climbing a side-hill. Southward 
 and westward, round behind the town, to the left, 
 the river Lee sweeps away, to Cork, some ten or 
 twelve miles distant by it, though only six by direct 
 course by land. 
 
 Three modes of proceeding from Queenstown to 
 Cork present themselves. The First enables the 
 traveller to make acquaintance with that oddest and 
 most dashing of conveyances, the "jaunting-car," 
 without which Ireland could not possibly exist, just 
 as it never could have originated elsewhere than in 
 Ireland, with its two seats lengthwise, passengers 
 back to back, driver sulky-mounted, two wheels 
 and one horse, and general arrangements for what 
 one writer has graphically described as " going it at 
 a gallop and everybody holding on." A very pleas- 
 ant ride up the banks of the Lee may be thus ob- 
 tained ; but that mode of transit has a rival in the 
 Second: railway, by which the passenger is whisked 
 up, on the north side of the Lee, in a few minutes ; 
 and that by the Third: steamboat up the Lee, de- 
 cidedly the pleasantest of all in fine weather, with 
 the capital views afforded of the junction of the Lee 
 with the harbor; the small villages that stud the 
 banks ; and the public grounds and fortifications on 
 the left, and larger shipping of the port on the right, 
 approaching the city itself. These little iron paddle- 
 wheel steamers run frequently, in summer, and they 
 often carry music, making the run more pleasant 
 and less tedious. 
 
 COEK, built on both sides of the Lee, and span- 
 ning it with nine bridges, is one of the handsomest 
 
 O O 7
 
 IJ\T IRELAND. 83 
 
 cities in Ireland, as well as one of the largest being- 
 only second to Dublin in size and to Belfast in trade. 
 It is also second to Dublin in dirt (no high praise) ; 
 and many of the best streets are well built and hand- 
 some, but of the "back-slums" the less said (and 
 observed) the better. To see the town hastily but 
 to best advantage, an open jaunting-car should be 
 taken, if the weather is fine, and a close one (another 
 institution of Cork, covered, closed in front and open 
 behind) if rain falls or threatens. The driver, in 
 that case (there as elsewhere), will supply the best 
 of guide-books. Several of the churches demand at- 
 tention among others the Cathedral, St. Patrick's, 
 St. Ann's, and the very old Church of Shandon, with 
 its sweet bells (the chiming of which should be 
 heard), referred to by Father Prout in his 
 
 " Sweet bells of Shandon 
 That sound so grand on 
 
 The pleasant waters of the river Lee." 
 
 There are also the Mansion House, the Royal Cork 
 Institution (with a Museum said to be worth visit- 
 ing), some of the Banks, etc. ; while above the main 
 body of bridges the banks of the Lee are very beau- 
 tiful, and one public walk on the south side, the 
 Mardyke, is very pleasant, handsomely shaded and 
 attractive. Half-an-hour's call at the Court-House 
 will show the dingy assize-rooms in which most of 
 the Fenians of the South have been tried, and quite 
 suffice as a type of Irish courts. Cork has a consid- 
 erable number of manufactories, in woollen, etc. ; 
 and no small amount of ship-building is carried on
 
 84 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 on the north side of the Lee, below the bridges. 
 Before leaving Cork, one or two excursions must be 
 made, especially one to 
 
 BLARNEY CASTLE, LAKE AKD GROVES. These 
 may be reached in a pleasant ride of five or six miles, 
 by jaunting-car, south west ward, first glimpses of 
 plenty of the Irish rural cabins, with their white- 
 washed walls, thatched roofs, turf-smoke and poverty, 
 being also caught on the way. The Castle is a fine 
 old ruin, with the donjon-keep still more than an 
 hundred feet in air, much better preserved than most 
 ruins, and said to have been originally the home of 
 the royal M'Carthys. The original " Blarney Stone " 
 hangs from the vaulted ceiling of one of the cham- 
 bers, and only fools risk their necks in trying to kiss 
 it, especially as there is another quite as " real " and 
 powerful, to be kissed (" for a consideration "), on 
 the lawn below. The Lake, lying near the Castle, 
 is very small and very pretty ; and the " Groves of 
 Blarney" are all that they have been called of um- 
 brageous beauty. The second excursion (optional) 
 in point of importance, is to 
 
 Cloyne, an old town, now in ruins, a few miles 
 from Cork, east of Queenstown, seaward, with a fine 
 view, in passing, of Roskellan Castle, the splendid 
 family seat of the O'Briens, Earls of Inchiquin and 
 sometime Marquises of Thomond, rendered doubly 
 interesting to Americans from the near connection 
 with that family of the late Fitz-James O'Brien, 
 poet and soldier, who fell during the rebellion. 
 
 Leaving Cork for Killarney, by rail, much hand- 
 some scenery is to be enjoyed, with, among other
 
 IN IRELAND. 85 
 
 views, a fine one of the Castle and Groves of Blarney 
 at some distance to the left ; but nothing of special 
 interest breaks the journey until the arrival at 
 
 Mallow, a thriving town, at two hours' distance, 
 where the passenger changes cars from the train 
 direct for Charleville and Dublin, to that for the cross- 
 road for Killarney and Tralee. and where he hears 
 the old song of the " Rakes o' Mallow " continually 
 sounding in imagination. There are some manufac- 
 tories at Mallow, and much of Irish rural life and 
 character may be observed at and around the sta- 
 tion ; but there is nothing to tempt the laying over 
 of a train, when the reputation of the Lakes is 
 calling. 
 
 It is a run of perhaps two hours (often made 
 three or four, by the miserable railroad delays) from 
 Mallow to Killarney ; and the ride would be a 
 tedious one, but for the opportunities of enjoying 
 the bare, desolate scenery of the Southwest, study- 
 ing the cabins squatted under the edges of the hills, 
 seeing plenty of peat-bogs and heaps of the fuel 
 piled to dry, and at last finding the beautiful moun- 
 tains of Kerry lifting themselves ahead and to the 
 left. 
 
 Killarney (Village) is prettily situated, a mile 
 from the north-east point of the Lower Lake ; has a 
 population of five thousand, principally on a single 
 long street ; is picturesque (as are many of the blue- 
 cloaked peasant-girls) and dirty (as ditto). The 
 Nunnery, in the midst of the town ; the Cathedral, 
 to the north ; and some of the hotels, supply all the 
 features worth note, though no visitor to the town
 
 86 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 should fail to ride through it at some leisure. Of 
 course the attraction of the visit is found in 
 
 THE LAKES OF KILLAE^EY, three in number, 
 called the Lower (or Lough Leane), Middle (or Muc- 
 ross), and Upper. They are charmingly situated, at 
 the very bases of the fine hills, with Macgillicuddy 
 Reeks and Purple Mountain prominent at the west- 
 ern extremity ; Tore Mountain and the Devil's Punch- 
 Bowl prominent objects south and east ; and such a 
 variety in rock, shade and winding water as cannot 
 well be matched elsewhere in the world. They are 
 somewhat small and "band-box-y" to an American, 
 and are (as will later be discovered) something like, 
 though wilder and rougher, the English Lakes of 
 Cumberland, with a distant resemblance to Lake 
 George at home. In some features they are un- 
 equalled in the bloom of the broom or heather sur- 
 rounding them ; the size and beauty of the arbutus 
 groves on many of the islands ; and the wonderful 
 prevalence of detached rocks thrust up out of the 
 water especially in the Lower Lake. As is well 
 known, too, they have both poetic and legendary 
 charm in a rare degree, as they are the scene of all 
 the O'Donoghue legends, out of which so many Irish 
 stories and dramas have been formed ; -while Moore 
 has immortalized one of the most charming portions 
 of the Lower Lake in his " Sweet Innisfallen," and 
 Lover (appropriate name) clustered round them the 
 most mischievous of memories in 
 
 " Kate Kearney, 
 
 Who lives on the banks of Killarney." 
 
 Of the two-days' sojourn at Killarney, the most
 
 AV IRELAND. 87 
 
 prudent division of time is into two portions one 
 day each for boat and jaunting-car. In the day by 
 boat (when he must be accompanied by a bugler and 
 take along lunch) he will pass through all three of 
 the Lakes, besides visiting the island and ruined Ab- 
 bey or' Innisfallen, and Ross Island and Castle (the 
 last of Cromwell's holds in Ireland) on the LoAver 
 calling at Glena Cottage (Lord Kenmare's) under 
 Glena Mountain, passing under Brickeen Bridge, 
 going through the Long Range (between the Lakes) 
 and the Meeting of the Waters, and hearing the 
 wonderful bugle-echoes of Irish melodies under the 
 Eagle's Nest. Boats, rowers and guides, as well as 
 jaunting-cars, can be procured at any one of half-a- 
 dozen excellent hotels ; and there is nothing in the 
 way of legend that the guide-bugler by boat, or the 
 driver by car, will leave untold. 
 
 On the second day, by jaunting-car, the whole 
 round of the Lakes may again be made, with the 
 Ruins of Aghadoe, the wild Gap of Dunloe, etc. ; 
 while, on the return, there will be an opportunity to 
 visit Tore Waterfall, a beautiful wild cascade under 
 the edge of Tore Mountain, to observe much of the 
 scenery made immortal in the " Collegians" (Gerald 
 Griffin's novel) and its after-thought, the " Colleen 
 Bawn" to see the handsome house and grounds of 
 Mucross, with possibly the village of the same name 
 and to spend an hour at 
 
 Mucross Abbey, one of the very finest medieval 
 ruins in Ireland, standing near the eastern side of 
 Mucross Lake (Middle), with an ivy-grown square 
 tower of wonderful beauty ; the tombs of O'Don-
 
 88 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 oghue, McCarthy More and 'other Kings of Mun- 
 ster yet remaining in the chancel ; a wonderful old 
 yew-tree filling up the whole court ; old cloisters ; ivy 
 to any extent; and a history dating back to 1140. 
 
 The traveller should be duly advised that at and 
 around Killarney, " Paddy," male and female, may 
 be found in full glory ; that the -district is magnifi- 
 cently rebellious very many of the Fenian prison- 
 ers and convicts of 1866-7 having come from about 
 Killarney and the Gap of Dunloe ; that roguery and 
 beggary equally abound (male and female again); and 
 that if he buys all the curiosities offered, from carved 
 wood to potheen whiskey, he will have no money left 
 at the outset and will need a ship of his own to 
 freight home his purchases (not including the whis- 
 key, which may be carried internally). 
 
 KILLARNEY TO AND ABOUT DUBLIN. 
 
 Travellers at greater leisure would be likely, after 
 seeing Killaruey, to go farther south and west to 
 Bantry, Kenmare and Dingle Bays, all following in 
 succession from the extreme southwest point of Ire- 
 land, northward, and affording very fine coast sce- 
 nery ; then by the Shannon to Limerick, still farther 
 north, and the finest town in the west ; and possibly 
 yet farther north, out of Kerry and across Clare, to 
 Galway Bay and Galway, where the rough-riding 
 description of Irishman is yet said to exist in the 
 greatest perfection, with the best potheen and the 
 most jolly recollections of the novelist Lever. 
 
 But the short-trip traveller will only be likely to 
 turn back on his road so far as to return by rail to
 
 I2T IRELAND. 89 
 
 Mallow, and there changing cars again take the train 
 direct by Charleville, Limerick Junction and Port- 
 arlington, to Dublin, the capital and chief attraction. 
 Very much of interest, to lovers of character and 
 scenery, will be found on the way up, in the loungers 
 at the stations, in some of the way-passengers, and 
 in the glimpses caught of rural scenery, turf-bogs, 
 cabins, ruins, and distant mountains. For many 
 miles, some two-thirds of the way up from Mallow, 
 the railway runs through the far-famed Bog of Allen, 
 in and over which may be seen every variety of the 
 turf-bog, the moor, the very desert. And yet farther 
 on, if the right side of the carriage be occupied, 
 some very fine views will be caught of an immense 
 furze-dotted upland, once famous as a race-course, in 
 the shape of the Curragh of Kildare, and well worthy 
 of a visit, now, for the sake of the large number of 
 troops continually encamped there in summer, and 
 the "Wrens" (human of a certain female order) said 
 to nest there like ground-birds. Only an hour's ride 
 beyond, by N~aas, and then, 
 
 DUBLIX, the capital of Ireland, and well worthy 
 of a visit both for its present and its past. It lies on 
 both sides of the river Liffey (so well commemorated 
 in the jolly old rhyme as 
 
 " The Liffey, 
 
 That runs down by Dublin's swate city so fine "), 
 
 some ten or a dozen miles from the splendid break- 
 watered harbor of Kingstown (Dublin Bay), of which 
 the famous Hill of Howth, the traditional oath of 
 every true Paddy, forms the bold northern defence 
 against the Channel. Dublin, well known as the
 
 90 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 capital of Ireland when a nation, and the vice-regal 
 seat since the Union, is at once one of the handsom- 
 est and dirtiest of cities, with very many fine public 
 buildings, charming public grounds, and poor-quar- 
 ters so much fouler even than those of the ordinary 
 European cities, that they make a sort of celebrity of 
 themselves. It is said to have something more than 
 a quarter of a million of inhabitants. 
 
 To the short-trip traveller, of course, the jaunting- 
 car will come into requisition, in and around Dublin, 
 quite as well as in any other locality. There are very 
 i'ew places actually demanding internal examination, 
 though several would repay it ; but of outside views 
 there are an extraordinary number worth remember- 
 ing. One day " at a pinch," and two at comparative 
 leisure, will do the city comfortably, the best of 
 guides being found, as elsewhere in Ireland, in the 
 chatty, smoking driver of the car. 
 
 Of public buildings, those best demanding atten- 
 tion are the Castle, famous in both history and ro- 
 mance ; the Bank of Ireland (once the Parliament 
 House) ; Trinity College, from which so much of fun 
 and true learning have gone out to the world ; Con- 
 ciliation Hall, where O'Connell made his great 
 speeches, and on tne steps of Avhich his statue still 
 seems to be hurling defiance at the Union and its 
 supporters ; the Custom-House ; Post-Office ; the 
 Four Courts (law building) ; the Crystal Palace ; 
 and some of the churches, with St. Patrick's Cathe- 
 dral far the most interesting of them. Some hours 
 should be spent in the latter fine old building (re- 
 stored), whatever the religion of the visitor, as it is
 
 iy IRELAND. 91 
 
 within it that all the Knights of St. Patrick are (or 
 used to be) installed, their seats and banners show- 
 ing prominently ; while some portions of the edifice 
 show an antiquity of seven or eight hundred years, 
 and the tombs and monuments of Dean Swift, Cur- 
 ran, Archbishop "Whately and several others, lend 
 it a profound interest. The Cathedral (Catholic) is 
 also said to contain many interesting- monuments 
 among others that of Strongbow (De Valence, Earl 
 of Pembroke), the first English invader of Ire- 
 land. 
 
 There are some very fine bridges over the Liffey ; 
 some splendid monuments, the inevitable Nelson 
 leading off with the finest, in the neighborhood 
 of the Post-Office ; some very handsome streets, 
 among the pleasantest of them Lower Sackville and 
 Frederick Streets ; while those who wish to find the 
 opposite can be handsomely accommodated by tak- 
 ing a short drive through St. Patrick's Close, Bull 
 Alley, and a few of the other " back-slums " behind 
 St. Patrick's. 
 
 Of public grounds, within the city, the only ones 
 of interest are Merrion Square, showing all around 
 it the faded gentility of what was once the "rale 
 ould Oirish arishtocracy " ; and Stephen's Green, 
 equally well known as a place of meeting and one 
 of execution. Without the. town, 
 
 Phenix Park, the boast of every Dubliner, is well 
 worthy of its reputation, from its extent; the shaded 
 beauty of part of it ; its high location overlooking 
 the city and harbor; the droves of fine cattle that 
 find pasturage there ; the Vice-regal Lodge, with its
 
 92 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 handsome grounds, on the northern edge ; the great 
 parade-ground (the " Fifteen Acres "), etc. ; while 
 
 Glasneoin Cemetery, the " Greenwood," " Mount 
 Auburn " and " Laurel Hill " of Dublin, supplies one 
 of the finest of rides to the gates and one of the 
 sweetest of walks within. In quiet beauty of natu- 
 ral scenery, and exquisite taste in arrangement, Glas- 
 nevin may vie with any other cemetery in Europe ; 
 and in the wondrously-sweet perfume of its many 
 lime-trees will be found another marked charm in 
 midsummer. The tomb of O'Counell lies in a taste- 
 fully-bordered raised circle in the centre ; and within 
 the grated door may be seen the coffin, every day 
 covered with fresh flowers by reverent hands though 
 the intention is said to be, soon to remove the body 
 to the Tower overlooking the cemetery and the city, 
 because " O'Connell must have no tomb that cannot 
 be seen from the sea." 
 
 A leisure evening in Dublin may be well and 
 wisely spent at the Theatre Royal, where the acting 
 is generally good and the merriest and most appre- 
 ciative audiences in Europe are said to be found. 
 
 Of excursions from Dublin, the one which should 
 be most surely taken if time permits, is to the wild 
 scenery of the River Dargle, a few miles southward 
 of the city, in the County Wicklow in some regards 
 among the wildest and finest on the "tight little 
 island." 
 
 At Dublin the very brief southern Irish tour ter- 
 minates, the tourist running down by rail the few 
 miles from Dublin to Kingstown, and thence taking 
 steamer to Holyhead (Wales) for Liverpool or Lon-
 
 ZiV IRELAND. 93 
 
 clon. ' With either of the longer tours already 
 sketched, in view, a satisfactory glimpse can be 
 caught of the north, as follows: 
 
 DUBLIN TO BELFAST AND THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. 
 
 Leaving Dublin for the North, the route will be 
 by rail direct to Belfast, much of the lower part of 
 the route lying near the sea, and the whole extent of 
 it crossing successively the Counties Dublin, Louth, 
 Armagh and Down ; while of places of interest on 
 the way, Drogheda, with the crossing of the Boyne 
 ("Boyne "Water") near it, and its historical recollec- 
 tions of Cromwell and James the Second ; Dundalk, 
 where Edward Bruce, brother of Robert the Bruce, 
 was crowned King of Ireland ; Newry and Lisburn, 
 will be found the principal. 
 
 The special " linen-district " of Ireland is reached 
 in thus running north, and while scenery roughens 
 to become the "Black North," the white-striped 
 bleaching-greens and large linen-factories become a 
 new feature in the landscape, all the way from 
 Drogheda to the capital of North Ireland, 
 
 BELFAST, at the head of Belfast Lough, with 
 something like an eighth of a million inhabitants ; the 
 most extensive linen-manufactories in the world (in 
 and around it) ; a Linen Hall, Queen's Bridge and 
 several public buildings of interest, including the^ 
 Cathedral, Post-Office, etc. ; an extensive coasting 
 and Channel trade, and more commercial importance 
 than can be found elsewhere in Ireland, outside of 
 Dublin and Cork. A few hours of leisure will be 
 very well bestowed in visiting the Linen Hall (great
 
 94 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 bazaar of the trade), and some of the flax-mills and 
 weaving-shops, the number of which seems to in- 
 crease the wonder of Ram-Rusti, in the "Happy 
 Man," that so small a bit of linen as Paddy Murphy's 
 shirt-bosom can make a man so blest ! 
 
 From Belfast, north for the Causeway, the best 
 route is to take the rail by Carrickfergus to the little 
 town of Larne, at the sea-end of Lough Larne, where 
 the rail ceases and the long journey by jaunting-car 
 begins. Mail cars (of the "jaunting" pattern) run 
 thence, by various connections, all the way to the 
 Causeway, the breaks being at Cushendall and Bally- 
 castle, and the scenery splendidly compounded of the 
 rough coast and the North Channel at the right hand, 
 and the mountains of Antrim at the left ; while dirt 
 and beggary seem to swarm in the miserable villages, 
 even worse, if possible, than at the south. One day 
 to one and a half (according to connections) should 
 be consumed between Belfast and 
 
 THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY, one of the most stu- 
 pendous and wonderful of Nature's freaks, lying at 
 the extremity of the County Antrim and almost at 
 that of the island, nearly in a northerly line with and 
 some twenty miles distant west from the lowest point 
 of the Scottish Mull of Cantire. It consists of nearly 
 one-fifth of a mile (1,000 feet) of upright basaltic col- 
 umns, stupendous in size, varied in shape (as to the 
 'number of sides of each crystal), and so fitted to 
 each other as no hand but that of the Divine Archi- 
 tect could have arranged them. They should be 
 walked over, boated round (and into the caves) when 
 the weather and a sea smooth enough will allow, and
 
 IN IRELAND. 95 
 
 laid up in memory with Niagara, the Western prair- 
 ies, and the Alps, whether the legend is or is not 
 received, that the Causeway was built by Finn Mc- 
 Coul, the Irish giant (original Fenian properly 
 "Finnian"), to allow a Scotch giant to come over 
 and be lathered by him ! Such tilings may be ; for 
 what American does not know that our own Sandy 
 Hook, at the entrance of New York harbor, was 
 originated by one of our giants, walking across from 
 Navesink Highlands to Long Island, stopping and 
 pouring out the sand from his shoes ? 
 
 N. B. The Giant's Causeway has the reputation 
 of drawing more shillings from unwilling pockets, in 
 the way of fees to guides, for curiosities, and in other 
 swindles, than any other place in the world except 
 American Niagara. Once for all, elsewhere as well 
 as here, on this point the cheap-tourist must " keep 
 his weather-eye open : " the millionaire or the fool 
 may scatter money as they like. 
 
 The return from the Causeway should not be made 
 by the same route as the approach. A short car-ride 
 takes the traveller to Portrush, whence the railway 
 carries him directly back to Belfast within three to 
 five hours. But if a few hours extra can be spared, 
 it is very well bestowed in merely running down 
 from Portrush to Coleraine (where " Kitty of Cole- 
 raine " is supposed to have abode), and thence by 
 rail to 
 
 Lo^noONDEEEY (or Derry), on the river Foyle, at 
 
 the head of Lough Foyle, where a very handsome 
 
 little town of twenty or thirty thousand inhabitants 
 
 maybe seen, remarkably well built, lighted and paved, 
 
 9
 
 96 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 with a central Diamond Square (palpable contra- 
 diction, in terms, to any one who does not re- 
 member that all New York squares are triangles ! ), 
 charming suburbs, and a wonderful historical recollec- 
 tion of the long siege which it stood against James 
 IL's forces in 1689. 
 
 From Londonderry there are two routes by rail 
 back to Belfast : by return to Coleraine (much the 
 nearer) ; or taking the line so far southward towards 
 Enniskillen or Omagh, and branching then eastward 
 to Portadown, striking the road from Dublin at Lis- 
 burn. In either event the traveller is once more at 
 Belfast ; ready to take steamer to Glasgow, and the 
 raore-or-less brief Scottish tour. 
 
 [For those Americans who take Ireland last in- 
 stead of first, of course the previous hints will need 
 to be precisely reversed. Landing at Belfast from 
 Glasgow, the run will be up to the Giant's Cause- 
 way and back to Belfast ; then down to Dublin ; 
 thence to Mallow and Killarney ; returning by Mal- 
 low and changing there for Cork and Queenstown 
 and the home-steamer. 
 
 Leaving out the North, in the yet shorter trips, 
 and landing at Dublin (Kingstown) from Holyhead, 
 the course will be to Mallow and Killarney from 
 Dublin ; then back by Mallow and change there for 
 Cork and Queenstowu, as before. For time neces- 
 sary to be consumed in the different Irish routes, 
 see paper at commencement, on " Time of Trips."]
 
 IX. SHORT TEIPS IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 THEKE are two directions of the most ordinary 
 progress, in Scotland, just as there are two principal 
 land-approaches. Those who reach Edinburgh first, 
 take more or less of the Highlands on their way to 
 Glasgow ; and vice versa. The point of view to be 
 followed, in the present paper, is based on the as- 
 sumption of Glasgow being first visited : of course, 
 in the alternative case, the order here adopted sim- 
 ply needs reversing. 
 
 Assuming, then, that the tourist has reached Glas- 
 gow first, whether by steamer or rail, the first mat- 
 ters of interest are to be found 
 
 1ST AKD ABOUT GLASGOW. 
 
 GLASGOW, situated on the Clyde, is second in im- 
 portance of the cities of Scotland, and in some re- 
 spects the first. It has a population of between three 
 and four hundred thousand ; is busy and thriving in 
 every detail of commerce and industry ; and is prob- 
 ably a little more like New York than any other city 
 of the Eastern World. It, in connection with Gree- 
 nock and the banks of the Clyde between the two 
 places, carries on an immense business in iron ship- 
 building, and no small amount of interest is to be 
 found in visiting the great yards, with their foun- 
 deries. It seems legitimate, by the way, that these 
 " Clyde-built steamers " should supply nearly half
 
 98 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 the world, as they do as the first steamer ever built 
 in Europe is said to have been launched here (in 1812), 
 and James "Watt, the great applier of steam-power 
 to vessels, was born here. It has also a very exten- 
 sive shipping and coasting trade, as is well known. 
 
 Architecturally and in public grounds, it has many 
 beauties and much historical and romantic interest. 
 
 The Cathedral, dating back to the 12th century, 
 and containing, with the yard, many fine monuments 
 (among others that of John Knox), is a very proper 
 boast of the Glasgow people ; and the Royal Ex- 
 change commands very general admiration. It has 
 five handsome bridges crossing the Clyde, and splen- 
 did quays down the river front ; that portion of the 
 wide drive which they supply being known as 
 
 The Broomielaw, certainly one of the finest river- 
 side drives in Europe. No one can pretend to have 
 seen Glasgow without driving down it. 
 
 Kelvin- Grove Park, the great public ground of 
 Glasgow, lies on the Kelvin Water, a small stream 
 running into the Clyde at the west end of the city, 
 and is very beautiful, though the little stream itself, 
 poisoned by the mills above it, is foul enough for 
 Cologne. The other most notable public ground is 
 
 St. George's Square, lying in the centre of the 
 town, surrounded by the principal hotels and many 
 public buildings, and containing monuments to Scott, 
 Xelson, etc. Among the special " lions " of Glasgow 
 may be reckoned 
 
 The Salt Market, now nothing but a shabby 
 quarter adjoining the City Prison (between the col- 
 umns of which Pritchard, the wife-murderer, was
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 99 
 
 hanged iu 1865), but immortalized by Scott as the 
 residence of Baillie Nicol Jarvie, in " Rob Roy "- 
 many other quarters of the town, too, being sacred 
 to similar memories, real and romantic, of the great 
 freebooter and others of his class who made Glas- 
 gow a resort from its proximity to the Highlands. 
 
 Glasgow should be driven through and around in 
 one of the open cabs plentifully supplied ; and the 
 tourist should not fail to be taken from the Salt 
 Market up through the town by the High Street 
 (where the worst mobs in Europe often gather), with 
 a view of the dingy but celebrated old University, 
 the tumble-down antique (and some shockingly dirty) 
 houses, and many other objects of interest which the 
 driver may always be depended upon to point out. 
 
 With even one day to spare before pushing on to 
 the Highlands, one excursion from Glasgow should 
 certainly be made, one day being occupied in that 
 and the return. 
 
 AYE AND THE BURNS NEIGHBORHOOD. 
 
 AYR lies some forty miles southwest of Glasgow, 
 on the North Channel, and immediately opposite the 
 Isle of Arran. It may be reached by rail in two 
 hours, after passing, only a few miles from Glasgow, 
 through 
 
 Paisley, a thriving town, celebrated for its manu- 
 facture of shawls and other woollen, cotton and silk 
 fabrics ; with a fine old Abbey Church (scarcely worth 
 breaking journey to visit, however) ; and the Ellers- 
 lie Oak in sight at the left, under which Wallace is 
 said to have hidden from the pursuing English.
 
 100 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 In the little seaport town of Ayr, proper, the 
 most interesting object is to be found in the two 
 bridges, an old and a comparatively new one, im- 
 mortalized by Burns in the poem of the " Twa 
 Brigs." On what is called the Wallacetown side of 
 the river, stands 
 
 The Wallace Tower, on the site of the dungeon 
 where he was confined ; with a statue of the hero in 
 front and the clock and bells of the old dungeon 
 at the top. A carriage should be taken, after the 
 local surveys, to visit 
 
 The Burns Cottage, about two miles from Ayr 
 a very humble house, with two rooms and in bad re- 
 pair, where the poet was born in 1759. Some two 
 miles beyond is 
 
 Kirk Alloway, the haunted church made memo- 
 rable in " Tarn o' Shanter " ; and in the immediate 
 neighborhood runs 
 
 The Doon, a quiet little stream, sacred to poetry 
 and song, from the " Banks and braes o' Bonny 
 Doon," crossed by the single-arched stone bridge 
 where Auld Clootie pulled off the tail of Tarn o' 
 Shanter's mare. 
 
 Tlie Bums Monument, near the banks of the 
 Doon, has been built about fifty years, is a handsome 
 Corinthian-columned structure of 60 feet, with a 
 cupola, and has many interesting reminders of the 
 poet in a room on the ground floor among other 
 things, a portrait, the Bible which he gave to High- 
 land Mary, a snuff-box from the wood of Alloway 
 Kirk, etc. The scenery of the Doon is worthy of its 
 poetic reputation ; and as the return can be made to
 
 iy SCOTLAND. 101 
 
 Glasgow the same night (by rail from Ayr), the day 
 is one not to be missed. 
 
 GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH, BY THE SHORTER ROUTE. 
 
 The shortest route from Glasgow to Edinburgh, 
 with any glance at the Highlands, may be made in a 
 single day, though two would be more satisfactory. 
 Whether taken in one or two days, however, it is 
 one of the most charming on earth, especially in fine 
 weather, which cannot always be calculated upon. 
 
 Leave Glasgow by rail, down the Clyde, with 
 nothing of special interest on the way, until passing, 
 on the left and on the near or upper bank of the 
 Clyde, 
 
 Dumbarton Castle, now a cluster of ruins on a 
 round hill skirting the river, but famous in history 
 and once held in high estimation as a fortress, as 
 well as being the spot from which Mary Queen of 
 Scots, when a child, sailed away to France. Xot far 
 beyond Dumbarton, the disembarkation is made from 
 the cars, at the little station of 
 
 Balloch, at the south end of Loch Lomond, where 
 steamer is taken up the Lake, the Lake itself and 
 the Scottish Highlands, with 
 
 .Ben Lomond crowning the prospect, being in full 
 view thenceforth and the real charm of the trip be- 
 gun. Loch Lomond is strikingly beautiful, with 
 many reminders of the American Lakes George and 
 Winnepesaukee, especially at the lower end, studded 
 with beautiful islands ; while it has a double interest 
 in Ben Dhu, Glen Luss, Ross Dhu, Bannochar, Glen 
 Fruin, and other objects which will readily be point-
 
 102 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 ed out, on the left, referred to in the rowers' song 
 ("Hail to the Chief") of the "Lady of the Lake; : ' 
 and Ben Lomond, on the right, continues to attract 
 the closest attention by its crag-broken peaks of 
 green. 
 
 Landings are made at Luss, on the left, and at 
 Rowardrennan on the right ; and at Tarbet, again on 
 the left, those go ashore who take coach for Loch 
 Long, Inveraiy, etc. But the tourist does not land 
 until he catches sight of 
 
 Inversnaid Fort and landing the latter a tri- 
 fle, and the former a mere apology for a fortification, 
 built for defence against the McGregors (with Rob 
 Roy at their head) in 1713. Inversnaid has another 
 interest, in the fact that it formed the " lairdship " 
 of Rob Roy, before lie became an outlaw and a free- 
 booter. His " Prison," a rocky fastness at the water's 
 edge, in which he was said to confine his captives, is 
 passed lower down, at the foot of Ben Lomond, while 
 his " Cave " lies above Inversnaid, and is only seen 
 by those who continue upward to the head of the 
 lake. 
 
 At Inversnaid four-horsed carriages are taken, 
 across the beautiful heather-bordered strath towards 
 Loch Katrine, with splendid mountain scenery in 
 every direction. Part of this ride lies beside the lit- 
 tle river and Loch Arklett ; and at a certain point 
 the spot is shown where not many years ago yet re- 
 mained the cottage of Helen McGregor. All this, 
 between the two lakes, is especially the " Rob Roy " 
 country, and alluded to in the novel of that name. 
 
 Loch Katrine, claimed to be one of the most
 
 iy SCOTLAND. 103 
 
 beautiful lakes in the world, and certainly lovely in 
 its mountain scenery, is reached after a few miles, 
 the carriages being left and another steamer taken, 
 at 
 
 Stronaclachar (or Coalbarns), a little landing at 
 the extreme head of the lake, from which a glorious 
 view can be caught of almost its entire length and of 
 the historical mountains that gird it. 
 
 The " Rob Roy country " has been changed for 
 that of the "Lady of the Lake," on leaving the strath 
 and reaching Loch Katrine ; and passing down the 
 lake on the steamer, the points named in that remark- 
 able poem rapidly present themselves. Of these one 
 of the first and most interesting is 
 
 Ellen's Isle, a very small wooded island at the 
 left, where the meeting between Fitz James and 
 Douglas is supposed to have taken place, and where 
 the immortal little lady was seen with her boat and 
 paddles. A little farther onward, to the right, shoots 
 up the giant mountain 
 
 Jlen Venn, ragged and craggy in outline, and with 
 what has been designated as "the sunshine rippling 
 down the green, between its fretwork of bulging 
 crags." Ahead shows the sharp, pointed summit of 
 
 Ben A ''an, marking the pass through the Trossachs, 
 through which the Knight of Snowdoun made his 
 way towards Stirling. 
 
 The landing is made, all too soon, at a little cov- 
 ered toy-wharf at the foot of the lake, where open 
 carriages are again taken, for the ride through the 
 Trossachs to Callandar. The scenery is now among 
 the finest in Scotland, and so continues for miles
 
 104 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 wild, wooded, craggy, mountainous. A halt is usu- 
 ally made for lunch at the pleasantly-situated hotel 
 of 
 
 Ardcheanocrochan^ in the Trossachs (literally 
 "bristling country"), under the brow of Ben A'an. 
 Two or three miles away, across the valley and Loch 
 in front of the hotel, lies 
 
 The Clachan of Aberfoil, so well remembered by 
 all readers of "Rob Roy ;" and those who lie over 
 for a day at Ardcheanocrochan (as many do) should 
 make the short excursion to the little Highland ham- 
 let of Diana Vernon and Captain Galbraith. 
 
 From Ardcheanocrochan the tourist pushes on, 
 still by carriage, through the pass, amid splendid 
 mountain scenery, much of it reminding of that at 
 the Franconia Notch of the White Mountains. Very 
 soon after leaving, Loch Achray appears on the right ; 
 and then the Turk Water is crossed, by the 
 
 " JBrigg of Turk" celebrated in the " Lady of 
 the Lake " as the spot where 
 
 " When the Brigg of Turk was won, 
 The foremost horseman rode alone." 
 
 Some of the very finest of the Highland scenery 
 is here, for to the left, shortly afterwards, are seen 
 the tall pines of wild Glenfinlass, back of the heathery 
 Craig More and the Glenfinlass hills; then comes 
 Loch Vennochar, to the right, with beautiful 
 
 Lanrick Mead (" Glendrig ") on its border, where 
 the Clan Alpine always gathered, and where the 
 summons went out to assemble, in the poem. Some 
 very pleasant glimpses of Scottish rural life are
 
 7JV SCOTLAND. 105 
 
 to be caught on the vray along Loch Vennochar ; 
 and near the southern or farther end, comes a pretty 
 fall of Avater, made useful in supplying the Glasgow 
 Water- Works, but celebrated as 
 
 Coilantogle Ford, where Fitz James and Roder- 
 ick Dhu had their conflict. 
 
 Sen Ledi, another of the Highland giants, comes 
 into view here, at the left ; and shortly after the way 
 lies over Callander Bridge, and the tourist is ready 
 for dinner at 
 
 CALLANDAR, a little old town with a street about 
 one mile long, and of no particular interest. Here 
 the carriages are abandoned and the railway is taken 
 for Stirling. Two places of marked poetical interest 
 are passed on the way, as the road passes through the 
 village of 
 
 Dunblane, made famous by the old song of " Jes- 
 sie, the Flower of Dunblane," and shortly afterwards 
 over the 
 
 Bridge of Allan, made equally famous by the 
 sweet old ballad of " Allan Water." 
 
 Approaching Stirling, a fine view is caught, on 
 the left, of the unfinished 
 
 Wallace Monument, on the Abbey Craig, a tower 
 which will be very imposing if ever finished ; and 
 then come 
 
 STIRLING AND STIRLING CASTLE, the former a very 
 old, uneven-streeted, picturesque town, well worth 
 some hours of rambling, and the latter a very high 
 rock-throned fortification of irregular character, said 
 to be not less than eight or nine hundred years old, 
 overlooking the river and valley of the Forth, the
 
 106 SHORT- TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Carse of Stirling and the Battle-field of Bannockburn, 
 so famous throughout all Scottish history. 
 
 The view from Stirling Castle battlements is 
 wonderfully fine, covering the Highlands at the 
 west, the Ochill Hills to the north and east, and the 
 Campsie Hills to the south, the town of Stirling, the 
 ruins of Cambuskenneth Abbey, the Abbey Craig, 
 Bridge and "Water of Allan, the Carse, Valley of 
 the Forth, etc. ; and by many it is considered 
 almost unequalled in Europe. The old apartments 
 within the Castle are well worth examination, es- 
 pecially 
 
 The "Douglas Room" where James II. assas- 
 sinated the powerful and turbulent Earl of Douglas, 
 about 1440 ; and to the north of the Castle should 
 be visited the 
 
 "Heading-Hill" where many of the executions 
 of old used to take place, especially those of the 
 Duke of Albany, Earl of Lennox, Walter and Alex- 
 der Stuart, etc., by James I., 1424. 
 
 Excursions may be made to the 
 
 Field of JBannocJcburn, two and a half miles south, 
 where the Scottish Bruce defeated the English Ed- 
 ward II., 30,000 against 100,000, on the 24th June, 
 1314, establishing again the Scottish monarchy and 
 giving ground for Burns's ever-popular " Scots wha 
 hae wi' Wallace bled ! " Many points of local in- 
 terest, thereabouts, will be explained and shown by 
 the guides among others the Bore-Stone, the Bloody 
 Folds and the Gillies' Hill, all connected with the 
 battle. A profitable hour may also be spent, before 
 leaving Stilling, in visiting the ruins of
 
 /JV SCOTLAND. 107 
 
 Gambuskenneth Abbey, near the town ; and, if 
 time allows, also 
 
 Doune Castle, a very fine old remain, not far 
 from the Bridge of Allan. It was among and aixnind 
 
 O Cj 
 
 this scenery that Sir Walter Scott spent many of 
 his early days, forming his taste for the historical 
 and romantic. 
 
 There are also several buildings in Stirling proper, 
 worthy of visit and notice by those who tarry yet 
 longer ; among others the Grey Friars 1 Church, near 
 the Castle, built by James IV. ; Argyle's Lodging ; 
 Mar's Work, etc. ; but these are all secondary iu 
 positive importance, to those who have but a limited 
 time for stay. 
 
 The run from Stirling to Edinburgh may be made 
 in either of two ways : by rail, requiring a couple 
 of hours, or by boat, occupying about three, arid 
 passing down the River Forth to the Firth, and 
 landing at Leith (port of Edinburgh), with excellent 
 views of the Firth and its islands, Inch Keith, etc., 
 and of the coast, the fishing-town of Newhaven 
 (scene of Charles Reade's "Christie Johnstone"), 
 etc. In fine weather, the latter is by far preferable. 
 From Leith, if proceeding by boat, two miles by 
 carriage to Edinburgh. 
 
 GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH THE LONGER ROUTE, BY 
 OBAN AND INVERNESS. 
 
 Those who are pursuing any other than the brief- 
 est route marked out in the present volume, may 
 profitably proceed from Glasgow to Edinburgh by a 
 line consuming three to four days or even longer in 
 10
 
 108 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 the transit, instead of one or two. For this, the fol- 
 lowing conveys all necessary general information : 
 
 Take steamer at Glasgow, down the Clyde, by 
 Greenock, down the Firth of Clyde, between the 
 island of Bute and the main-land ; then through the 
 Kyles of Bute into Loch Fine and up Loch Fine to 
 Loch Gilp (its northwestern extremity) and to Loch- 
 gilphead, the termination of first steamer's route. 
 From Lochgilphead, by boat on the Crinan Canal 
 (towed) across the isthmus (neck of the Mull of 
 Cantire) to Crinan, at the end of the canal, on the 
 eastern side of Jura Sound. At Crinan, steamboat 
 again across Jura Sound northwestward, through the 
 archipelago of islands formed by Luing, Scanna, 
 Sera, etc., to 
 
 Oban, on the west shore of the main, opposite 
 the island of Mull. Much of the scenery through 
 all this route is charming, blending the marine and 
 the mountainous as possibly they are blended in no 
 other spot on the globe. 
 
 From Oban, which is nothing except from its 
 surroundings, an excursion of one day should be 
 made, by steamer, across the Sound, below and around 
 the south coast of Mull, to 
 
 lona (or Icolmkill), a beautiful little island lying 
 a little northwest of the extreme southwest point of 
 Mull, displaying some of the most lovely of the 
 rugged coast-characteristics of the Western Islands, 
 and 
 
 FIXGAL'S CAVE (Staffed), a basaltic columned 
 natural curiosity, of giant size, jutting into the sea 
 and presenting many of the characteristics of the
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 109 
 
 Giant's Causeway (Ireland), but with peculiar fea- 
 tures of overhanging roofs and arched caves, render- 
 ing it perhaps even more interesting than its rival. 
 The return from. Staffa and lona will be made to 
 Oban. 
 
 From. Oban, those who have no longer time at 
 command, can take the Scottish Grand Junction Rail- 
 way, running directly east across the head of Loch 
 Awe (the Campbell country) to Crianlarich, a few 
 miles north of the head of Loch Lomond. Thence 
 either by carriage or by rail to the head of Loch Lo- 
 mond, and down it by steamer to Inversnaid, where 
 the previously-marked-out route from Glasgow will 
 be taken, leading by Loch Katrine, the Trossachs, 
 Stirling, etc., to Edinburgh. 
 
 But those who can spare yet a day or two in ad- 
 dition, should take, at Oban, the steamer up Loch 
 Linnhe, Loch Lochy, Loch Ness, etc., and the grand 
 Caledonian Canal forming a connection between 
 them, something over one hundred miles, through 
 the most magnificent of Scottish lake and mountain 
 scenery, including Ben Nevis, the Grampians, etc., 
 with one of the noblest works of modern engineer 
 ing (in the canal itself), to 
 
 INVERNESS, a handsome and thriving town, sup- 
 plying the metropolis to that portion of North Brit- 
 ain, lying at the head of Murray Firth, on the eastern 
 coast of Scotland, some three-fourths of its whole 
 length northward. 
 
 From Inverness the return may be made by ca- 
 nal ; but more variety is found by taking coach from 
 that place, southward through the whole of the High-
 
 110 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 lands, over splendid roads and through and among 
 the mountains that have been passed on going up, 
 skirting some of the finest of the Perthshire scenery, 
 to the head of Loch Lomond, where boat may be 
 taken to Inversnaid, and the route pursued by Loch 
 Katrine, the Trossachs, Stirling, etc., as before indi- 
 cated. It is not too much to say that while either 
 of the previous routes affords glimpses of some of the 
 very best of Scottish scenery, those who would know 
 Scotland even moderately well should endeavor to 
 afford time and means for making the whole of the 
 last. 
 
 AT AND ABOUT EDINBURGH. 
 
 Edinburgh, the capital city of Scotland, lying 
 some two miles from the south side of the Firth of 
 Forth (at Leith), will be found at once one of the most 
 beautiful towns in 'Europe in location and buildings, 
 and one of the most interesting in the historical, 
 romantic and poetical associations with which it 
 is studded. It has a population ranging between 
 150,000 and 175,000; is divided into two parts, the 
 Old and New Town, by a deep ravine or gulch, once 
 a deformity, but now spanned by beautiful bridges 
 and ovei'hung by charming gardens (the "Prince's 
 Street "). It has three points of principal interest, all 
 elevations, and lying nearly equidistant from each 
 other, in a triangle : the first being the Calton Hill, 
 the second Arthur's Seat, and the third the Castle ; 
 while in passing through and looking down a single 
 street in the Old Town (the High Street, changing 
 into the Canongate), and a single one in the New
 
 AV SCOTLAND. Ill 
 
 Town (Prince's Street), the difference between mod- 
 ernism and antiquity will be wonderfully well shown. 
 The at-all-hurried traveller should " do " Edin- 
 burgh by cab an open one if the weather is fine, 
 and a close one in the opposite event ; the driver, 
 here as elsewhere in Europe (not always in America), 
 beins: one of the most useful of guides. 
 
 O o 
 
 Galton Hill may well be first visited, with its 
 Nelson, National, and other monuments, Observa- 
 tory, fine views over the Firth of Forth, etc. ; and 
 on the way down from it will be passed the 
 
 Burns Monument, a beautiful structure, pillared 
 and Grecian, with winged griffins supporting an 
 hour-glass, and a bust of the poet ; 
 
 The Bridewell and Debtors' Prison, very hand- 
 some embattled buildings too handsome for their 
 use. It is worthy of particular note that on the spot 
 where the prison now stands, stood the old " Kirk of 
 Field," in which Darnley, Queen Mary's husband, 
 was blown up and killed in 1567. Passing down the 
 North Back of the Canongate, the visitor will be in 
 a moment at the 
 
 PALA.CE OF HOLYROOD, a queer but handsome old 
 French - looking chateau, with pointed pepper-box 
 turrets, by far the most interesting building in Scot- 
 land, and unexcelled by any in Europe. 
 
 This Palace (or " Holyrood House," as it is oftener 
 called) is said to have been founded by David the 
 First, the Crusader (who figures in Scott's " Talis- 
 man"), about 1130 or 1140; and it has ever since 
 held a prominent place in Scottish history, being gen- 
 erally the residence of the royal family while there
 
 112 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 was one to reign, and especially sacred to the for- 
 tunes and misfortunes of Mary Stuart. 
 
 The gateway of Holyrood is handsome, and note- 
 worthy from its still bearing the arms of Queen Mary. 
 Opposite to it is a very handsome fountain, erected 
 by the late Prince Consort (Prince Albert) ; and 
 across the Court-yard is an humble building, much 
 observed, said to have been Queen Mary's Bath. 
 
 "Within there are state apartments for the present 
 royal family when visiting Holyrood, but they are 
 of no consequence after (or before) seeing the corre- 
 sponding apartments at Windsor Castle. The rooms 
 especially commanding attention are 
 
 The Picture Gallery, a very long low-ceilinged 
 chamber, filled with royal portraits (ugly enough, 
 most of them) of all ages, but showing a much great- 
 er attraction in having once been the great Hall of 
 Holyrood, and the spot where Charles Edward 
 Stuart, the Pretender, when holding Edinburgh in 
 1745, held the "Hunters' Balls," one of which is 
 made so notable in the pages of " Waverley." Among 
 the portraits best worth observing here, however, 
 are those of Robert Bruce (1306) ; David the First 
 (1124) ; James the Fourth (killed at Flodden Field, 
 1513); James the Fifth (the "Fitz-James" of the 
 " Lady of the Lake," and father of Queen Mary) ; 
 Charles the First ; Duncan (murdered by Shak- 
 speare's Macbeth) ; Macbeth himself; and Malcolm 
 (Malcolm Canmore) who succeeded the kingly mur- 
 derer. 
 
 Lord Darnley^s Rooms come next in order of 
 showing, with pictures and tapestry ; then
 
 71V SCOTLAND. 113 
 
 The Staircase is seen that narrow staircase up 
 which the assassins crept to murder David Rizzio. 
 It is on the floor above that the t\vo most interest- 
 ing rooms in Holyrood are to be found : 
 
 Queen Mary's Audience- Room, where that un- 
 fortunate queen gave her audiences and was lectured 
 by John Knox. On the magnificent canopied bed, 
 with its rotting velvet, still standing here, Charles 
 the First slept while at Holyrood ; the Pretender, in 
 1745, and the Duke of Cumberland after Culloden. 
 The next room is still more interesting and mournful 
 
 Queen Mary's Chamber, where she slept ; the room 
 panelled in ceiling and with tapestried walls ; and 
 the bed still standing as she left it, rotting, now, 
 canopy and covering; while several other remem- 
 brances of her table, work-box with work, etc. 
 fill up the room, one of the most sadly attractive on 
 earth. Close adjoining is 
 
 The Supper Room, where Rizzio was stabbed 
 while clinging to the very skirts of the Queen ; and 
 just beyond is 
 
 The Ineffaceable Blood, the spot at the stair-head 
 where Rizzio was dragged to die, and where a large 
 dull red stain appears, which those who have " faith " 
 enough may believe has lingered, spite of fading and 
 scrubbing, for three hundred years ! Adjoining 
 Holyrood House are the ruins of 
 
 Holyrood Abbey, of which the roofless walls re- 
 main, with very handsome Gothic gateway and win- 
 dows, old tombs in the pavement, and recollections 
 of the altar where Queen Mary was married to 
 Darnlev.
 
 114 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Away from Holyrood the drive should be re- 
 sumed, up the " Queen's Drive " and around 
 
 Arthur's Seat, the high hill overlooking Edin- 
 burgh, with a collar or ruff of rocks under the brow, 
 called Salisbury Crags. Some fine views are caught 
 in skirting the hill ; and one of the noblest in Europe 
 is attained on leaving the carriage and climbing to 
 the rocky top, whence Edinburgh, the Lothians, the 
 distant Highlands, the Frith, etc., are all spread be- 
 fore the eye. Coming round the hill toward the 
 town, excellent views are caught of 
 
 Jeanie Deans' s Cottage, the Wall of DumbiediJces, 
 and Muschaffs Cairn (near Salisbury Crags), all im- 
 mortalized in Scott's " Heart of Mid-Lothian." 
 
 Many interesting objects present themselves in 
 driving from the foot of Arthur's Seat, up the Canon- 
 gate, the High Street, the Lawn Market and Castle 
 Hill, to the Castle. The very tall old houses (some 
 of them twelve stories !) ; the narrow alleys, or 
 " Wyncls " ; some of the churches (among others the 
 Tron Church, in which may be seen the altar at which 
 the real and actual Annie Laurie was married) Dr. 
 Guthrie's, St. Giles (with its splendid spire), the As- 
 sembly Hall, etc.) ; the old 
 
 House of John JKhox / Argyle's Balcony; the 
 Tolbooth (prison) ; the old Parliament House ; and 
 many other objects of interest stud the drive, until 
 
 EDINBURGH CASTLE is reached, rock-throned, com- 
 manding and picturesque, with a narrow and wind- 
 ing entrance, odd old chambers, the 
 
 Birth-Room, where Queen Mary bore James VI. ; 
 the
 
 AV SCOTLAND. 115 
 
 Regalia-Room, where the regalia of Scotland is 
 preserved and shown (by order obtained at the Coun- 
 cil Chambers, High Street, every day between 12 and 
 3), with an antiquity dating back beyond record, 
 while it has figured in nearly every phase and period 
 of Scottish history. Principal among- the incidents 
 connected with it, meanwhile, will be remembered 
 its capture from the English by the Earl of Moray 
 (by escalade of the rock, as Quebec was taken by 
 "Wolfe) in 1313, and its long defence for Queen Mary 
 by Kircaldy of Grange, in 1573. Among the nota- 
 ble curiosities connected with the Castle, is 
 
 Mons Meg, an immense old cannon (till the days 
 of our late war), founded in France, known to have 
 been used at the siege of Norham Castle in 1514, 
 and burst in firing a salute to James Duke of York 
 (James II.) in 1682 perhaps as a warning of the 
 blow-up that was coming to him ! 
 
 Among the other objects which should certainly 
 be seen at Edinburgh, is the 
 
 Scott Monument, on Prince's Street, a Gothic 
 structure of more than two hundred feet in height, 
 with a magnificent colossal statue of Sir Walter, by 
 Steel, shrined within, many emblematic figures, an 
 inscription by Jeffrey, and altogether one of the 
 finest monumental works of the age. 
 
 George Heriot's Hospital (made memorable by 
 Scott, in the " Fortunes of Nigel ") ; Scott's old 
 residence ; the Greyfriars' Church and Churchyard ; 
 the Antiquarian Museum ; George's Square ; Brunts- 
 field Links (meadows) ; the Edinburgh Cemetery ; 
 Leith, with its magnificent Granton Pier, and Leith
 
 116 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Walk leading down to it these, and fifty other ob- 
 jects of interest, present themselves to longer tarri- 
 ers in the fine old town, though hasty visitors will 
 scarcely find time for them. 
 
 An evening may generally be spent very pleas- 
 antly at the Theatre Royal, which supplies the lead- 
 ing spectacular entertainment of the town; and 
 Edinburgh is somewhat noted for its literary re- 
 unions and entertainments. 
 
 One excursion should certainly be made, on a 
 "Wednesday or a Saturday if possible, either by cab, 
 or by the Peebles railway, to 
 
 Rosslyn, Hawthornden, and Dalkeith Palace 
 (seat of the Duke of Buccleugh). Rosslyn Chapel, 
 without and within, is a marvel of laborious beauty, 
 besides showing an antiquity dating back to 1446. 
 Some of the clustered and spiral columns in the in- 
 terior are held to be matchless, especially the " Pren- 
 tice's Pillar," of which the guide will very readily 
 tell a tough legend. The ruins of Rosslyn Castle 
 stand by the Esk side, and are very picturesque be- 
 lieved to date back to 1100 or 1200, and certainly 
 the old family seat of the St. Glairs, Earls of Caith- 
 ness and Orkney. 
 
 Hawthornden is a fine old mansion, once the 
 residence of the poet Drummond (" Drummond of 
 Hawthornden "), with subterranean caverns beneath, 
 exciting much interest. 
 
 Dalkeith Palace is a large square structure, sur- 
 rounded with an extensive park, with great antiquity 
 and an intimate connection with the fortunes of the 
 Grahams and the Douglases, from the latter of whom
 
 iy SCOTLAND. m 
 
 it came to the family of Buccleugh. Anne, Duchess 
 
 4/ O ' 
 
 of Buccleugli and Monmouth, lived here after the 
 execution of her husband for the " Monmouth Rebel- 
 lion ; " and long before, Froissart, the French chron- 
 icler, is said to have here visited the Earl of Douglas. 
 
 Other pleasant excursions may be made, if time 
 allows, to Newbattle Abbey, Dalhousie Castle, 
 Craigmillar Castle (ruins once occupied by James 
 V. and Queen Mary), etc. ; and yet a little additional 
 time, will allow of taking the Edinburgh and Ber- 
 wick railway, to Melrose station, whence may be 
 visited 
 
 Abbotsford, on Tweed-side, the splendid baro- 
 nial residence of Sir Walter Scott, with many inter- 
 esting memorials remaining of that great poet and 
 romancer. . For this, carriage should be taken at the 
 station, for the drive of three miles and return. 
 Very near the station lies 
 
 Melrose Abbey, founded by David I., in the twelfth 
 century, and considered one of the finest Gothic re- 
 mains- in Europe, while it is full of reminders of the 
 numbers of the Scottish Kings, and the heart of 
 Robert Bruce, buried here, as well as doubly im- 
 mortalized by Scott in his exquisite 
 
 " If thou wouldst view fair Melrose aright, 
 Visit it by the pale moonlight," etc. 
 
 Some three or four miles in the opposite direction 
 lies 
 
 Dryburgh Abbey, only less beautiful as a ruin, 
 and containing the tombs of Scott, his wife and eld- 
 est son, besides kingly memorials. Thence to Ber- 
 wick and by Great Northern road to London.
 
 X. 
 
 SHORT TEIPS IN ENGLAND. 
 
 THE points of interest presented, in England, are 
 so many and varied that only a few of them, though 
 the most interesting, can be culled by the short-trip 
 traveller, who yet wishes to see other countries and 
 does not go beyond the extreme four months for all. 
 The points of approach, too, will necessarily be va- 
 ried, as before indicated, in trips of different length 
 between the two extremes of one-and-three-quarters 
 and four ; and it is again necessary to refer to the 
 second paper in the present volume, " Time of Trips," 
 for the order in which it will be most convenient 
 to visit them, as one or the other arrangement is 
 adopted. 
 
 The shortest of the short trips contemplated 
 gives us only, in England, 
 
 LIVERPOOL AND CHESTER, TO LONDOX. 
 
 LIVERPOOL, lying in South Lancashire, on the 
 north side of the river Mersey, is the largest seaport 
 on the globe, the trade of a whole world literally 
 concentrating here ; and it is as a seaport, with its 
 magnificent docks and the variety of shipping passing 
 in and out from them, that its predominating interest 
 is to be found. 
 
 The city itself is large, populous, and many por-
 
 JJV ENGLAND. 119 
 
 tions.of it (especially in the subiirbs) notably hand- 
 some. There are few public buildings worthy of 
 note, however. St. George's Hall, standing at the 
 apex of the hill on which the town rises from the 
 Mersey, is one of the noblest buildings in Great 
 Britain, and worthy of close attention, without and 
 within. After this, the new Exchange, the Assize 
 Courts, the Town Hall and Custom-House, are the 
 most notable ; though to commercial visitors the 
 heavy and ponderous mercantile buildings on the 
 lower streets near the river may be quite as interest- 
 ing. There are a few monuments worth notice es- 
 pecially the recently-erected equestrian statue of 
 the Prince Consort, in front of St. George's Hall ; 
 that of Nelson, by the Exchange ; that of George 
 III., at London Road, etc. The principal cemetery 
 is St. James's, very tasteful and with a handsome 
 statue of Mr. Huskisson, the great commercial found- 
 er. But far beyond any mere buildings, at Liver- 
 pool, in interest, are the famous 
 
 Liverpool Docks, the most costly and extensive 
 in the world, some six miles in extent, on the north 
 or city side of the Mersey, and constructed at a cost 
 of 17,000,000 to 20,000,000 equal to $85,000,000 
 to 1 00,000,000. They are, commencing at the west 
 or seaward end of the line, the Canada, Huskisson, 
 Sandon (graving docks), Bramley-Moor, Nelson, 
 Prince's (at the centre of the city), St. George's, 
 Salthouse, Queen's, King's and Brunswick ; while 
 across the river, at Birkenhead, there are some (in- 
 cluding Laird's building-docks) of quite equal interest 
 
 and magnificence. 
 11
 
 120 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 The Sandon Docks are immense basins, like those 
 in the Navy Yards at Brooklyn and Charlestown, 
 arranged for the floating in of vessels for repair, 
 closing of gates, and pumping out until the hulls are 
 left dry- for the workmen. The others, or commer- 
 cial docks, are rendered necessary by the immense 
 height and depth to which the tides rise and fall 
 (eighteen to thirty feet, against our New York five 
 to eight) ; and they act upon the exact reverse of 
 the Sandon principle upon exactly the same prin- 
 ciple, in fact, as that of " locking " on our great 
 canals. 
 
 These great commercial docks, constructed of 
 Scotch granite and iron, are, indeed, purely and 
 simply immense canal locks, with swing-gates, into 
 which vessels are taken at high tide and the, gates 
 closed so as to retain the water within and keep 
 them afloat and at the proper height for convenient 
 receiving and discharging. The machinery for mov- 
 ing the gates is only less massive than the docks, 
 partly hand and partly hydraulic power. Except at 
 periods when repairs may be demanded, the water 
 in the docks seems never to be allowed to run down ; 
 and to secure this end all entrances and departures 
 of vessels are made somewhere within about two 
 hours of high tide, the gates never being allowed to 
 open otherwise than during that limited space at and 
 near high water. 
 
 It is at and around the Liverpool dock?, too, that 
 the best idea can be formed of the immense extent 
 of the commerce of the port, from the vessels of all 
 nations lying in dock of the paltriness of English
 
 IN ENGLAND. 121 
 
 riven-boats, the meanness of English ferry-systems, 
 etc., while in going to and from them some idea may 
 be formed, along miles of " gin and spirit stores," 
 how England guzzles, even worse, if possible, than 
 America. 
 
 The Liverpool cab-system is very like that of 
 London cheap and excellent. With the use of 
 these vehicles the sight-seeing may be quickly and 
 cheaply dispatched ; from the docks to the splendid 
 railway-stations, there are really few public buildings 
 worth internal view. 
 
 There are some highly interesting rides, a few 
 miles into the suburbs, to be enjoyed by those who 
 have abundance of time ; but these are scarcely to be 
 taken by the short-trip traveller, who can find their 
 equivalent elsewhere and with less delay. There are 
 now two excellent theatres, the Prince of Wales's 
 and Royal Alexandra, at either of which an evening 
 may be well spent, especially as almost always dur- 
 ing summer they are occupied by London companies 
 turning the metropolitan vacation to profit. 
 
 There is one excursion, from Liverpool, that must 
 be made, even by the most hurried that by rail, 
 with half an hour's ride, across the beautiful rural 
 scenery of Cheshire (southward of the Mersey) to 
 
 CHESTER, on the little river Dee, one of the old- 
 est cities in England, and on some accounts among 
 the most interesting. It has figured in history from 
 and before the time of the Romans, some of whose 
 mosaic pavements are yet existing ; while the walls 
 surrounding the town are known to be so old as to 
 have been repaired and extended in A. D. 73 ! The
 
 122 SHORT-TRIP GUILE. 
 
 fine Welsh mountains are in full view from it, and 
 they supply a reminder that it was the fortified town 
 so long held by the De Lacys, " Constables of Ches- 
 ter," who with its aid beat back the wild Welsh bar- 
 barians making incursions across the marches. 
 
 The Old Walls are first among the curiosities of 
 Chester with the walks they supply on the broad 
 top and the towers that stud them at various points. 
 The most interesting of these latter is King Charles's 
 or the Phoenix Tower, on the top of which Charles 
 the First stood to see his last army defeated on Row- 
 ton Moor. In this tower there is a small but very 
 interesting museum of antiquities, including the Cas- 
 tellan. 
 
 The Cathedral comes next a fine old Gothic 
 structure of 700 or 800 years in age. It is interest- 
 ing, throughout the great Chapel, the Crypt and 
 Chapter-house ; and there is an especial interest in 
 the latter, in two flags hung over the doors, carried 
 by the Cheshire Regiment (22d) up Bunker Hill in 
 our Revolution, and by Wolfe at the taking of Que- 
 bec. 
 
 The Old Houses of Chester follow close after the 
 Cathedral in interest. Their arcaded first-storios 
 give the streets a strange appearance, apart from the 
 upper stories hanging out beyond the lower ; and in 
 two of them known as the Old Derby Palace and 
 God's Providence House are to be found some of 
 the finest timber-ancl-plaster work in Europe. There 
 is an old Roman Bath on Bridge Street, well worth 
 attention ; and as much may be said of the four old 
 Gates (arched gateways), giving admission \vithin
 
 IN ENGLAND. 123 
 
 the walls. The Castle is better worth visiting on 
 account of the old one which stood on its site, than 
 for any historical interest that itself possesses. If 
 time allows, a visit should be paid to 
 
 Eaton flail, in the immediate neighborhood, the 
 splendid seat of the Marquis of Westminster (the 
 richest nobleman in England), and one of the hand- 
 somest residences in the kingdom. 
 
 For a day, or half-a-day, at Chester, a cab should 
 be taken (easily found near the railway station) ; and 
 the local guide-book should be bought (cost one shil- 
 ling) there as elsewhere more for after reading than 
 use on the spot, where the driver-guide is usually 
 worth twenty books. 
 
 The run from Chester to London may be made 
 with or without returning to Liverpool. From Liv- 
 erpool, the direct line of the London and North- 
 western road is taken, across Cheshire, Staffordshire^ 
 "Warwickshire, etc., and by Crewe, Stafford and Rug- 
 by; and from Chester a branch of the same road 
 may be taken, joining the main line within a few 
 miles, at Crewe (the great railway-repair-shop of 
 England), or the Shrewsbury and Hereford road 
 may be taken so for as Shrewsbury, with a cross-cut 
 thence to the main line at Stafford. 
 
 AT AND ABOUT LONDON. 
 
 LONDON is, to Americans, the most interesting of 
 all the great cities of the Old World, from the triple 
 fact that it is the largest city of the civilized globe 
 that in it, alone, of the capitals of Europe, the 
 language is the same as our own, so that signs, direc-
 
 124 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 tions, inscriptions, etc., can all be understood by the 
 least-learned visitor and that, as mainly descended 
 from the same people inhabiting it, the historical 
 memorials involved are to some extent our joint 
 property. The same fact, in some degree, exists 
 with regard to everything in England ; but there is 
 probably no other point, except possibly the neigh- 
 borhood of Shakspeare's birth-place, where it as- 
 serts itself so strongly as at and around the great 
 capital. 
 
 Scarcely any traveller but is advised that London 
 lies on the Thames, at some fifty miles from the mouth 
 of that river, and that it was a city when the Romans 
 ruled in Britain ; but some may need to be reminded 
 that it occupies both sides of that river, nearly in 
 equal proportions the northern section being com- 
 prised in the County of Middlesex, and the southern 
 in that of Surrey ; and that it has as many divisions 
 as Philadelphia (formerly) or Boston, under the dif- 
 ferent names of The City, Westminster, Marylebone, 
 Finsbury, Lambeth, Tower Hamlets, Chelsea and 
 Southwark. It may be also necessary to give an- 
 other reminder that the population of this immense 
 human hive is now between 3,000,000 and 4,000,000; 
 and that the city and suburbs (comprised within the 
 above designations) cover a space of about twelve 
 miles by ten, or one hundred and twenty square 
 miles, so that a city of the size of New York could 
 be cut away from one side of it without leaving any 
 greater proportional mark than would be the cutting 
 away of Yorkville and Harlem from the American 
 commercial metropolis.
 
 LY EXGLAXD. 125 
 
 Of course no attempt at description could be here 
 either necessary or possible : all that can be supplied 
 for the benefit of the unaccustomed traveller, is a 
 statement of the objects best worth visiting, and 
 directions for reaching them most conveniently. 
 
 The cab-system of London (though the grum- 
 bling John Bulls are always faulting it) is the best 
 in the world, or only rivalled by that of Paris. 
 Hansom cabs (two- wheelers) and four-wheel cabs 
 are to be found everywhere. Their fares vary from 
 one shilling sterling to two and three shillings, for 
 either one or two 'persons, according to distance ; and 
 they can be employed for two shillings per horn*. 
 Carriages, for larger parties, or those who wish to 
 ride more luxuriously, can be obtained for about one- 
 third what the same vehicles cost in Xew York : as, 
 for instance, during the height of the season of 1867, 
 three persons hired a faultlessly-appointed open car- 
 riage-and-four, with driver in full livery, from a fash- 
 ionable coach-office, for the round of the Parks, in- 
 volving some three hours, for ten shillings sterling, 
 equivalent to $2.43 cents (gold) with a few pennies 
 additional as the driver's fee ! 
 
 But to return to the cabs. They are the legs of 
 London, so to speak; and the hurried traveller should 
 use them freely, thus not only saving time and fa- 
 tigue, but having a guide always at hand in the 
 driver. With their aid, the places named may be 
 visited with great rapidity and yet with pleasure and 
 satisfaction. A good local guide-book, with map 
 (Routledge's can be bought for one shilling), will 
 also be found convenient, though mor.e for future
 
 126 SHORT-TEIP GUIDE. 
 
 reference than use on the spot as may be said of all 
 local guide-books. 
 
 Westminster Abbey is probably the first object of 
 interest in London, from the number of great dead 
 lying within its walls. It can be comfortably " done " 
 in one day the first half devoted to Poets' Corner, 
 and the other " free " parts of the Abbey, where 
 stands the long array of tombs and tablets to the 
 British poets, artists and worthies, from Shak- 
 speare's time to the present, with a few noble no- 
 bodies intermixed ; and the latter half to an hour of 
 listening to the very fine organ and choral service, 
 with a ramble, at an expenditure of sixpence to the 
 guides, through the royal chapels and the tombs of 
 the Kings. The objects of most marked interest in 
 the Abbey are the noble building itself, with its 
 wonderful aisles, arches and forests of noble columns ; 
 the tombs of Shakspeare, Ben Jonson, Dryden and 
 the other poets, in Poets' Corner ; the splendid archi- 
 tecture of Henry the Seventh's Chapel, stalls and 
 banners of the Knights of the Bath, there, and mag- 
 nificent tombs of the founder, of Queen Elizabeth, 
 Mary Queen of Scots, etc. ; the golden-mosaicked 
 old altar-tomb of Edward the Confessor, in the Chap- 
 el of the same name, with the tombs of Edward the 
 First, Henry the Fifth and other warrior-kings, the 
 weapons carried by some of them, and the corona- 
 tion-chairs in w r hich every sovereign of England 
 since William the Conqueror has been crowned, with 
 the old Scottish Scone-stone (coronation-stone) set in 
 the bottom of one of them. The tombs of Mrs. 
 Nightingale, Fox, Pitt, the Duke of Argyle, and
 
 AV ENGLAND. 127 
 
 hundreds of long-departed kings and nobles, will 
 also command attention, so far as time may admit, 
 from various causes certain to suggest themselves 
 
 ~O 
 
 through the eyes, the memory, and the inevitable 
 pamphlet-guide which every visitor must purchase 
 at an outlay of sixpence. 
 
 The Houses of Parliament (Westminster Palace) 
 may well supply the next object of interest, the 
 splendid structure towering immediately over the 
 Abbey. The Chambers of the Lords and Commons 
 should both be seen, with the Queen's Throne in the 
 former, and the paintings and fine bas-reliefs in some 
 of the other rooms of the building to all which, 
 if unguided, direction can easily be procured from 
 the attendants and policemen on duty. If Parlia- 
 ment is in session, the use of a small douceur to at- 
 tendants, or the influence of the Legation, will almost 
 always secure admission to the Commons: to the 
 Lords the access is more difficult, though even that 
 can generally be managed in the same way. Before 
 quitting the building, a look should be taken through 
 Westminster Hall, now an immense empty space, but 
 in which so many of the great criminal trials, from 
 Charles the First and Strafford to Warren Hastings, 
 have taken place. Half a day is quite sufficient for 
 the Parliament Houses and Hall, except when a par- 
 liamentary session is to be attended. 
 
 The Tower of London is the next object of in- 
 terest, if it does not take precedence of the last-men- 
 tioned. It can be reached either by cab or one of 
 the small steamers on the Thames ; and half-a-day 
 will well suffice to visit it. It stands at the Thames
 
 128 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 side, near London Bridge ; and visitors are admitted 
 by tickets purchased at a ticket-office without, and 
 accompanied through (as well as watched) by one of 
 the Queen's yeomen (called "beef-eaters," originally 
 beaitfetiers), in the costume of the time of Henry the 
 Eighth. The leading attractions in this wonderful 
 cluster of , fortifications are to be found in the Trai- 
 tors' Gate, seen on entering, through which the ac- 
 cused used to be taken in from boats on the river ; 
 the window of the Bloody Tower (seen from with- 
 out), just within which the tAvo princes are said to 
 have been smothered by order of Richard the Third ; 
 the Horse Armory (in the White Tower), in which 
 effigies of half the dead sovereigns ride on horseback 
 in full armor ; Queen Elizabeth's Armory, in the same 
 tower, where Sir Walter Raleigh was so long con- 
 fined, and where the fatal axe and block are yet to 
 be seen, by and on which fell- so many royal and no- 
 ble heads ; the Jewel Tower, where the regalia of 
 England, crown, sceptre, sword, etc., are shown in an 
 iron cage; the Beauchamp Tower, where so many 
 noble captives languished away their lives ; the tre- 
 mendous collection of ancient and modern arms and 
 armor, etc. The Tower represents more than eight 
 hundred years of English history, and not even Lon- 
 don has a more powerful attraction to the intelligent 
 traveller. 
 
 St. Paul's Church, the Royal Exchange, Mansion 
 House, Bank of England, and Guildhall, may all be 
 included within a single half-day's visit, by cab, with 
 propriety. St. Paul's is simply the noblest and grand- 
 est church-pile on earth, except St. Peter's at Rome.
 
 iy ENGLAND. 129 
 
 It is a wonderful sight, to stand within the dome 
 and look up four hundred feet to the angels that 
 really seem to be flying in the blue sky. It lias som? 
 fine monuments, and in the Crypt below are the rest- 
 ing-places of both Wellington and Xelson, and th ? 
 funeral-car of the former. Guildhall is mainly inter- 
 esting for the sake of the civic banqueting-hall whic'.i 
 gives it name, at the end of which stand the famous 
 giants, Gog and Magog, of London history. Th^ 
 other three buildings named need only be admired 
 from without, exSept the traveller has special reasons 
 and privileges for entering. 
 
 The British Museum demands a full day, from 
 even the most hurried. It is a noble building, con- 
 taining the most wonderful and varied collection, 
 from books to statues, medals, relics and objects of 
 natural history, from all ages and all countries, ever 
 gathered in any one place upon earth ; and no word in 
 addition, here, could increase the force of such a 
 statement or add to the knowledge of the visitor, 
 who will be wise, however, to pay earliest attention 
 to the great Reading-Room, the Layard stones from 
 Assyria, the letters and autographs of eminent per- 
 sons, the collection of seals, British antiquities, etc., 
 if losing everything else for their sake. 
 
 The Crystal Palace, at Sydenham, demands a 
 day, and is reached by rail from Victoria Station. 
 It rivals the British Museum in the wonderful variety 
 of its collection ; and yet nothing within the build- 
 ing can compare with the wonderful size and beauty 
 of the erection of glass and iron itself an exagger- 
 ation, eight or ten times the size, of our lost New
 
 130 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 York Palace. The grounds are only second to the 
 building in beauty ; and scarcely a day occurs, in 
 summer, that some musical festival is not given in 
 the afternoon, enabling the visitor to combine two 
 enjoyments. 
 
 Windsor Castle and Park are reached by rail, 
 taking an open cab or fly from the Windsor Station, 
 and a fair idea of them may be caught in half-a-day, 
 rail included. The Castle is shown, whenever the 
 Queen is not resident there, as she generally is not 
 in summer. The Castle is exquisitely tasteful in ' 
 location and grand grouping of towers; and the 
 view from the Terrace is woudrously beautiful. The 
 most notable rooms, within, are St. George's Chapel, 
 where all the Knights of the Garter are installed, 
 and most royal ceremonials take place ; St. George's 
 Hall, devoted to the festivities of the order; the 
 Waterloo Chamber, with portraits connected with 
 the great battle, etc. It is almost needless to say 
 that the acme of art and luxury is reached in these 
 regal apartments, and that nowhere else can such 
 .glimpses be caught of the state surrounding an Eng- 
 lish sovereign. The Castle overhangs the quite old 
 town of Windsor (Windsor of the " Merry Wives ") ; 
 the Home Park, in which Herne's Oak, of that play, 
 stood until 1864, immediately adjoins it ; and a drive 
 of matchless beauty, three miles long and bordered 
 with the noblest elms in England, leads away to the 
 Great Park and the beautiful Lake, Virginia Water, 
 which should be driven to, and the latter walked 
 around, after leaving the Castle. 
 
 Hampton Court, splendid old palace and park
 
 IN ENGLAND. 131 
 
 (Bushy Park), once belonging- to Cardinal Wolsey, 
 and then to Henry the Eighth, with fine old pic- 
 tured-galleries, beautiful gardens, and the celebrat- 
 ed Labyrinth of Fair- Rosamond in the wooded 
 grounds ; 
 
 Keic Palace and Gardens (Royal), where the 
 art of landscape-gardening, in England, is literally 
 exhausted and the Palm House contains the finest 
 collection of tropical trees in Europe ; and 
 
 Richmond Hill, with its celebrated "Star and 
 Garter" Hotel, unrivalled in its view over the 
 Thames, and where people from all Europe go to eat 
 festive dinners, 
 
 All these may be reached and hastily enjoyed 
 in a cab-ride of half to three-quarters of a day, the 
 three lying on the same route, along the Upper 
 Thames, in passing over which, in addition, Twick- 
 enham, Brentford and other rural villages will be 
 skirted and a very pleasant acquaintance made with 
 English semi-rural suburban scenery. 
 
 The London Parks that specially demand atten- 
 tion are Hyde Park, the Green Park, St. James's and 
 Regent's. Hyde Park should be taken in the after- 
 noon, after the hour of adjournment of Parliament 
 (5 to 6), and ridden through in an open carriage, to 
 meet the "notables." The others will be driven 
 round in due course, a pause being made at the Re- 
 gent's, to see the Zoological Gardens, with their 
 fine collection of well-kept animals ; and in the cir- 
 cuit of the Parks, any intelligent driver will point 
 out and afford good views of 
 
 Buckingham Palace (the Queen's town residence), 
 
 12
 
 132 SHORT- TEIP GUIDE. 
 
 St. James's, Carlton House, Marlborough House (the 
 Prince of Wales's residence), etc., and many of the 
 most interesting of 
 
 The monuments, of whicn London has very many 
 notable ones, the most prominent being the Duke of 
 York's Column, in Waterloo Place; the equestrian 
 statue of Charles I., at Charing Cross ; the Havelock 
 and other monuments in Trafalgar Square, the " Lon- 
 don Monument " on Fish Street Hill ; the eques- 
 trian statue of Coeur de Lion, before the Parliament 
 Houses ; etc., etc. 
 
 A spare hour or two may well be spent at one of 
 the most interesting old churches in London the 
 Old Temple Church, with its gardens, on Fleet 
 Street, the church with many monuments of the 
 Knights Templars, and the Temple buildings, redo- 
 lent of law.' Acquaintance will be made, at the 
 same time, with the far-famed Temple Bar, which 
 changes Fleet Street to the Strand. 
 
 The Bridges of London, of which there are now no 
 less than ten, all elegant and substantial structures, 
 should receive an hour or two of daylight attention 
 as well as the railway travel passing over them, 
 the odd aspects of the boats lying at the wharves, 
 the miserable little steamers passing up and down 
 the Thames, etc. ; and an hour at night, standing on 
 any one of them and admiring the lines of lights cross- 
 ing the dusky river on the others, would be by no 
 means wasted. 
 
 The Railway Stations, of which London lias now 
 several of the finest in the world (Charing Cross, 
 Victoria, King's Cross, Euston, Bishopsgate, etc.),
 
 AV ENGLAND. 133 
 
 will naturally be observed in arrivals and depar- 
 tures ; and the railway system, as contrasted with our 
 own, may be studied in the same connection with in- 
 terest and advantage. 
 
 The National Gallery (occupying the north of 
 Trafalgar Square), and the South Kensington Muse- 
 um, both supply interesting collections of pictures, 
 which should be seen by art-lovers if time permits, 
 though neither comes within the range of the first 
 curiosities of London. 
 
 The Thames Tunnel, crossing beneath the river 
 from the Middlesex to the Surrey side, is a well- 
 enough thing to " do," for those who " wish to say 
 that they have been there," and who do not mind 
 going down into unpleasant and doleful places to be 
 able to make that boast as Tom Sheridan begrimed 
 himself by going down into the coal-pit. It is a 
 costly humbug and failure, however. 
 
 The Underground Railways (" Metropolitan ") 
 of London are features, and at least one ride should 
 be taken on them by the visitor. To the thinking 
 of the writer, one ride will be quite enough for each. 
 
 Greenwich Hospital and Chelsea Hospital, the 
 former the naval asylum of Great Britain, and the lat- 
 ter the military, are interesting places to visit, to those 
 who may happen to have a little more time than 
 otherwise demanded, in and about London. Many 
 mementoes of British heroes may be found in both 
 (especially in Greenwich, where Nelson figures large- 
 ly) ; and the old pensioners are themselves a study. 
 Greenwich may be reached by rail, from Charing 
 Cross, but even better by one of the boats plying
 
 134 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 down the Thames ; while Chelsea lies at the south- 
 west end of the city itself, and is within cab-distance. 
 
 Kensal Green is the only cemetery at or near 
 London, presenting any peculiar attractions ; and in 
 its case they are found in the burial there of Thomas 
 Hood, Sydney Smith, W. M. Thackeray, Allan Cun- 
 ningham, the children of Sir Walter Scott, etc. 
 
 Spurgeoris Tabernacle* at the Elephant-and-Cas- 
 tle, is one of the "lions" of London, and may be 
 reached on Sundays, in balf-an-hour's ride by cab or 
 omnibus, from any of the great city centres. 
 
 London Theatres are very numerous, and cele- 
 brated for the splendor of their entertainments, 
 though scarcely one of them but is dark, dingy and 
 uncomfortable to those familiar with the handsome 
 entrances and fine lights of American houses. Two 
 or three evenings' patronage of them must of course 
 be governed by the current performances ; but on the 
 average the wisest selections will probably include 
 the Haymarket, Adelphi or Olympic, and Princess's, 
 at any one of which the time spent is not likely to 
 be thrown away, especially with the opportunities 
 which performances supply for studying the play- 
 going habits and manners of the Londoners. 
 
 Some of the most charming peeps into the rural- 
 ities of England, attainable anywhere, can be caught 
 in brief rides out of London, by cab or rail into Es- 
 sex, Kent, Surrey, etc. ; and half-a-day spent in run- 
 ning down to Waltham-Cross, in Essex, and Brox- 
 bourne and the Rye-House, a few miles beyond, will 
 not only show the very fine old Cross, the ruins of 
 the Abbey, and the scene of the " Rye-House Plot,"
 
 IN ENGLAND. 135 
 
 but sojne of the very loveliest quiet rural scenery on 
 earth, and many glimpses at the midland-English 
 modes of farming, farm-laborers, agricultural uten- 
 sils, etc. 
 
 It is not to be supposed, either, that nearly all the 
 objects of interest of the great metropolis have been 
 alluded to, or that every short-trip traveller can pay 
 attention to all mentioned. But, taking them in the 
 order of importance here observed, and using the re- 
 markable, facilities at hand for reaching them cer- 
 tain it is that in the six to eight days allowed in 
 either of the tours contemplated, a very respectable 
 knowledge of the British capital may be obtained by 
 the intelligent and quick-witted tourist, however un- 
 used to the details of travel. 
 
 TO AND AT THE CUMBETCLAXD LAKES. 
 
 The Windermere Lakes, or Cumberland Lakes, 
 as they are oftener called, lie nearly on the extreme 
 northwest of England, in the two counties of Cum- 
 berland and Westmoreland. The Lakes are several 
 in number, within a limited space, ranging from 
 Windermere, Ills-water, Wastwater, etc., of some 
 miles each in length, to mere little ponds or " tarns," 
 like Grasmere and Thirlmere, and yet smaller, like 
 Loughrigg Tarn, Elter Water, etc. They lie em- 
 bosomed among mountains of singular beauty, with 
 Skiddaw, Helvellyn and Scawfell among the highest, 
 and nearly of the altitude of our Cattskill highest 
 peaks ; and though it is not to be denied that, even 
 more than those of Killarney, they look petty and 
 bandbox-y to an American full of memories of Supe-
 
 336 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 rior and Erie, or even of Winnepesaukie and Lake 
 George, so that the droll Illinoian who was about to 
 drink out of one of them hesitated for fear that he 
 should drain it dry, yet there are few spots on the 
 earth, lovelier or more worthy of a little time spent 
 in catching hurried glimpses. 
 
 There are two modes in which the Lakes are likely 
 to be reached by American tourists, the point of ap- 
 proach in both instances being the village of Win- 
 dermere, in Cumberland, and the first object Lake 
 Windermere, by far the largest of the whole cluster. 
 
 Of these approaches, one is from Liverpool, by the 
 London and Northwestern Railway, to Oxenholme, 
 on the Lancaster and Carlisle branch of that road, 
 and then by the Kendal and Windermere spur of 
 the same road to Windermere. This route will be 
 pursued, whether the visit is paid as merely an ex- 
 cursion from Liverpool, to return, or the temporary 
 break is made at Oxenholme from the main line from 
 Liverpool to Carlisle and Edinburgh. The princi- 
 pal places passed through, thus running north, are 
 Preston, Lancaster, Wigan and Kendal, all manu- 
 facturing in appearance; and the country passed 
 through shoAvs some of the loveliest rural scenery 
 of the west of England, beginning soft and hand- 
 somely hedged in South Lancashire, roughening 
 through Xorth Lancashire, and becoming broken, 
 hilly, and finally mountainous, a little after passing 
 Lancaster, and catching a view of Morecambe Bay, 
 with Duddon Mouth and Sands, stretching a \vay to 
 the Irish Sea. The ride seems like a somewhat long 
 and weary one, from Liverpool ; but as the sun, in
 
 iy EXGLAXD. 137 
 
 this latitude, at midsummer, seems never to go 
 down and it is daylight till midnight, there is no 
 fear of losing the appearance of the mountains as 
 they finally rise on the sight. 
 
 The other ordinary route of reaching the Lakes 
 is from the north, coming down from Edinburgh or 
 Glasgow by Carlisle, making the change of trains at 
 Oxenholme (which a facetious American lady spells : 
 "Ho-hex-he-hen-haitch-ho-hel-hem-he"), as in going 
 north, and the near approach being consequently 
 made in the same manner. 
 
 WrxDEKMERE is a hamlet rather than a village, 
 lying on the east side, nearly at the edge, and almost 
 at the centre, lengthwise, of Lake Windermere, with 
 the rival town of Bowness a few miles below. Once 
 reached, it seems too pretty and rural, and too an- 
 tique-looking (though really not very old) for the 
 railway approach that has been made ; and there and 
 in the excursions from it which fill up the few hours 
 that can be afforded by the hasty traveller, the most 
 striking feature is found in the quiet grace of the 
 rural scenery, the placid character of the waters, the 
 beauty of the walled and hedged lanes, and the 
 antique, peaceful loveliness of the whitewashed, 
 thatched-roofed, lattice-windowed, ivy-grown and 
 rose-climbed stone cottages. 
 
 The excursions from Windermere and Bowness, 
 through the district, planned in Miss Martineau's 
 entertaining "Guide to the Lakes" (which the trav- 
 eller may well buy and bring away with him, but 
 should avoid reading and thus becoming confused, 
 while on the spot) these excursions, echoed and
 
 138 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 enlarged by hotel placards and insisted upon by 
 guides and drivers, are well-nigh numberless. But 
 alas ! human life is brief and hurried, and busy men 
 cannot pass it all at Windermere. 
 
 In arranging these short trips, the shortest time 
 allowed at and about Windermere, is one day ; the 
 longest, two ; time for going and returning being 
 otherwise allowed. With only one day of stay, 
 what seems the most sensible plan is to be content 
 with what the local excursion placai-ds set down as 
 " Excursion No. 1 " some twenty-two miles in ex- 
 tent, by carnage, and comfortably made during 
 somewhat less than the long day of the latitude, 
 with time for stop (and possibly dinnei') at Gras- 
 mere. 
 
 On this excursion the very loveliest scenery of 
 the district is passed, as follows : By the east side 
 of Windermere Lake, in full view of it, past the little 
 hamlet of Lowood, with the Dove's Nest in sight 
 just beyond a pleasant house in which Mrs. He- 
 mans, the poetess, passed the last years of her life ; 
 the hills of Wansfell Pike showing finely to the 
 light and ahead, and Wray Castle prominent to the 
 left, on the opposite shore of the Lake ; past Amble- 
 side Water-Head ; and then bearing to the left and 
 westward, past Loughrigg Tarn and up the steep 
 Red Bank, with splendid views up the craggy- 
 peaked Vale of Langdale ; over Red Bank, with a 
 lovely view down over Grasmere Lake, Village and 
 Valley, with Helvellyn and the other mountains be- 
 hind; then down to 
 
 Grasmere Church, with opportunity to view that
 
 IX EXGLAXD. 139 
 
 church, said to have been commenced before the Con- 
 quest the pew, font and monument of the poet 
 Wordsworth within, and his grave and that of Hart- 
 ley Coleridge without. Dinner, or at least a rest, at 
 Grasmere ; then round by Rydal Water and the Vale 
 of Rydal, past 
 
 Rydal Mount, the old home of Wordsworth, and 
 back through the handsome old village of Amble- 
 side, past the residence of Miss Martmcau, along the 
 east side of the Lake again, back to Windermere. 
 
 The tourist who has bnt the one day at Winder- 
 mere svill yet find time, after returning from the ride 
 already described, to walk through the grounds of 
 the late professor Wilson ("Christopher North"), 
 remembered and loved about Windermere as few 
 men can hope to be in any neighborhood, and to 
 make the slight ascent of Orrest Head, and thus 
 catch one of the loveliest of all the views over the 
 Lake and the old village. The return from Winder- 
 mere, whether going north or south, will of course 
 be made by the same route as the approach taking 
 the railway back to Oxenholme and there making the 
 main-line connection. 
 
 With a second day at disposal, and the first spent 
 as before advised, it will be policy to go down yet 
 the same evening to Bowness, by boat or carriage, 
 to be ready for the very different tour of the next 
 morning, which has its proper commencement there. 
 
 The event of the second day will be a visit to 
 Furness Abbey, one of the most interesting old ru- 
 ins in the West, to make which the route will be to 
 Newby Bridge (over the river Severh, at the ex-
 
 140 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 treme south end of Lake Winclermere), through 
 scenery less wild than that of the previous day, and 
 passing Burnside, Ferney Green and other pleasant 
 rural hamlets before reaching the Bridge. From 
 Xewby Bridge, by carriage, eight miles to the pleas- 
 ant little town of Ulverston ; and from Ulverston 
 either by rail or carriage, only half-a-dozen addi- 
 tional miles, to 
 
 Furness Abbey (originally "Furnesse," Norman 
 French), said to have been founded in 1127, by King 
 Stephen, and especially favored by that king and his 
 queen, Maude, effigies of whose heads are to be seen 
 near one of the western windows. The Abbots of 
 Furness (Bemardins) are alleged to have ruled over 
 something like a kingdom ; and the massive charac- 
 ter of the yet well-preserved ruins well attests the 
 size, splendor and stability of the building in its 
 days of religious occupancy. Some of the clustered 
 columns, many of the fine Gothic windows and gate- 
 ways yet remain, and the grounds (once embracing 
 nearly seventy acres) have interesting remains of 
 fish-ponds, granaries, and many of the other conveni- 
 ences of the " lordly beggars " who once held it. 
 
 From Furness there is no occasion of returning to 
 either Windermere or Bowness, to leave the Lake 
 country. Returning to Ulverston, the rail may be 
 taken for the main-line at Carnforth Station, whether 
 for going north or south ; and for going north alone, 
 and with a fancy for much sea-view from carriage- 
 windows, the rail may be taken at Furness, by the 
 Furness and Whitehaven and Maryport and Carlisle 
 roads, around the coast by Whitehaven, Maryport,
 
 AV ENGLAND. 141 
 
 etc., 'across to Carlisle on the Edinburgh or Glasgow 
 route. 
 
 TO AND AT THE SHAKSPEARE NEIGHBORHOODS OF 
 WARWICKSHIRE. 
 
 These favored and attractive districts lie nearly 
 equidistant from Liverpool and London, and not 
 more than three hours by rail from either. To reach 
 them, from London, the London and Northwestern 
 road should be taken to Rugby; then the branch 
 line to Leamington ; then carriage from Leamington 
 to Stratford-on-Avon ; then rail (or carriage) from 
 Stratford to Warwick ; then carriage (certainly) 
 from Warwick to Kenilworth and Coventry ; then 
 rail from Coventry to Birmingham and the main-line 
 for either a return to London or the routes northward 
 to Sheffield, northwestward to Liverpool, or west- 
 ward to Shrewsbury. Such a disposition of route 
 and conveyance will give infinite variety and permit 
 the favorable (even if hurried) seeing of one of the 
 loveliest counties of England. 
 
 The larger proportion of Americans, however, 
 who visit the Shakspeare neighborhoods at all, will 
 be likely to do so on their way down from Liverpool 
 to London ; and it is from that point of view that 
 the foregoing succession will be reversed and the 
 principal points of interest hurriedly indicated of 
 what is unquestionably one of the most fascinating 
 and indispensable short routes on the globe. 
 
 The route by the London and Northwestern, from 
 Liverpool to Birmingham, passes by Crewe and Staf- 
 ford, as if on the way to London. Trains are changed
 
 142 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 at Stafford for Wolverhampton and Birmingham. 
 The smooth scenery of Cheshire, changing to the 
 rougher chai'acter of Staffordshire, affords infinite va- 
 riety in landscape ; and almost from the moment of 
 entering Staffordshire the number of furnace-chim- 
 neys becomes so great that they stupefy wonder as 
 well as excite it. In the neighborhood of "Wolver- 
 hampton the heart of the iron-country is reached ; 
 and here the wilderness of chimneys, the pack of 
 blazing and smoking furnaces, and the torn-up and 
 mangled character of the ground, yet worse disfig- 
 ured by the heaps of refuse ore, combine to produce 
 an impression very little else than infernal. In the 
 very midst of all this, embowered in extensive woods, 
 on a hill, stand the noble ruins of Dudley Castle 
 (burned some years since) ; and the view from the 
 castle ruins at midnight, over mile upon mile of 
 country apparently all belching flames, is said to be 
 magnificent beyond description, and at the same time 
 infernal without qualification. 
 
 Wolvwhampton itself is chimneys, coal-smoke, 
 iron-dust and grime iron, and the manufacture of 
 iron, everywhere. It offers no inducements for 
 stoppage, to the ordinary traveller. Nor is there 
 much of additional interest in the scenery, until 
 reaching 
 
 BIRMINGHAM, the spot where iron, and brass, and 
 all other metals are kept for sale, in a showy form 
 of hardware, and the very name of which has been 
 corrupted into " Brummagem " as a synonym for all 
 that is plated, pinchbeck and bogus. It has very 
 few attractions, as a toAvn, outside of the shops and
 
 72V ENGLAND. 143 
 
 shop-windows, the Town Hall and Corn Exchange 
 being really the only two handsome buildings. All 
 the inhabitants ignore the sidewalks and walk in the 
 middle of the street ; and umbrellas are in demand, 
 as it generally rains, whatever may be the state of 
 the weather elsewhere. 
 
 The ride by rail is only a few miles, through lovely 
 shaded Warwickshire scenery, from Birmingham to 
 
 CovEOTRY, famous both in history and romance, 
 and especially so in poetry; and rivalling if not sur- 
 passing even Chester in the beautiful antiquity of 
 some of its buildings. The story of the Lady Godi- 
 va, said to have ridden naked on horseback through 
 the town, many centuries ago, to induce her hus- 
 band, Earl Leofric, to take the heavy taxes off from 
 the inhabitants, has been for ages commemorated by 
 processions embodying that alleged event ; and both 
 Leigh Hunt and Tennyson have embalmed the inci- 
 dent in poetry, that of the latter being most familiar 
 to American readers. 
 
 The approach to Coventry by the railway is very 
 beautiful. The "bridge" on which Tennyson de- 
 scribes himself to have been " hanging " (lounging) 
 when he " watched the three tall spires " and devised 
 the poem, is very near the railway station, over a 
 mere gully ; and from it the three spires, all looking 
 nearly alike and very sharp, seem to be set almost in a 
 triangle. All three of the churches are worth visit- 
 ing, but especially 
 
 St. MichaeVs, by far the oldest, and interesting 
 without and within, from the marks of extreme age 
 exhibited ; and 
 
 13
 
 144 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 St. Mary's Hall, immediately adjoining, shows 
 very finely the effect of many centuries on both wood 
 and stone. 
 
 The Old Houses of Coventry, many of them of 
 wood-and-plaster, the upper stories projecting over 
 until they almost touch across the narrow and 
 winding streets, are objects of great interest among 
 the finest in Europe ; and everything about the old 
 town is odd and picturesque, not forgetting its pretty 
 girls. 
 
 Peeping Tom, one of the " lions" of Coventry, is 
 a painted wooden figure of life-size, looking out of 
 an open upper window not far from St. Michael's, in 
 commemoration of the one villanous tailor who would 
 look out to see Lady Godiva when she rode, and 
 who was stricken blind for that meanness. The figure 
 is said to be at least three or four hundred years old, 
 and no one should leave Coventry without seeing it. 
 
 Some of the finest fruits and flowers in England 
 are to be found at and about Coventry, and indeed 
 all over Warwickshire, 'at midsummer. 
 
 A " fly " or carriage (open, if the weather is fine) 
 should be taken at Coventry, for Keniiworth and 
 "Warwick, as no other mode of transit will show the 
 lovely " Heart of Warwickshire " to such advantage. 
 The road toward Keniiworth is wonderfully bor- 
 dered and shaded with fine elms, passing through 
 the. property of Lord Leigh, fine farms and some 
 charming very old cottages, clusters of cottages, and 
 rural hamlets, until reaching 
 
 KEXILWORTH CASTLE and village the latter very 
 - quiet and antiquated-looking, with plentiful shade
 
 JJV ENGLAND. 145 
 
 and 'cottages humble "but picturesque; and the for- 
 mer one of the most interesting mediaeval relics in 
 England. It is said to have been founded by one of 
 the Clintons, ancestors of the present Earls of Lin- 
 coln, in the time of Henry I. (about 1110), and was 
 afterwards in the possession of Simon de Montfort, 
 the great rebel Earl of Leicester, and of John of 
 Gaunt. But it derives its chief celebrity from hav- 
 ing been the property and residence of another Earl 
 of Leicester, Robert Dudley, Queen Elizabeth's fa- 
 vorite of that name, and his having entertained the 
 Virgin Queen there, with more than royal state as 
 commemorated in Sir Walter Scott's novel of " Ken- 
 ilworth." Though entirely in ruins, the pile is still 
 noble in both extent and marks of original architec- 
 ture, some of the splendid foliated windows, the 
 stairways and part of the arches of the banqueting- 
 hall yet remaining, while the all-covering ivy has 
 made the desolation doubly beautiful; the gardens 
 yet retain a wonderful variety of flowers, and the 
 great lawn and tilt-yard can easily be traced by those 
 who have any idea of the construction of ancient 
 castles and their grounds. 
 
 Half-an-hour's ride from Kenilworth, still by car- 
 riage, an outer, and if desired an inner view, can 
 be caught, by turning a little off from the road to 
 the left, of 
 
 Guy's Cliff Mill) a very old stone structure stand- 
 ing beside the Avon, said to be as old as the Nor- 
 man Conquest, and of 
 
 Guy's Cliff (Castle), celebrated as the residence, 
 many centuries ago, of the famous and unfortunate
 
 146 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 champion, Guy of Warwick, whose cave in the solid 
 rock, well also in the rock, bed hollowed from a log, 
 and other relics, are still shown. Xo better oppor- 
 tunity can be found for surveying one of the coun- 
 try houses of the old nobility, than by going through 
 Guy's Cliff, always open to visitors when the owner 
 (Lord Charles Percy) is absent with his family. The 
 Chapel (very old) and the caves in the rocks, once 
 occupied by the monks who founded the pile, may 
 also be seen to advantage. 
 
 A few miles farther, still by carriage, and the end 
 of the most beautiful of rides is reached, in 
 
 Warwick, a very old town, displaying many of 
 the same characteristics as Coventry, with the bear- 
 and-ragged-stsfff of the Warwick family conspicuous 
 on the public houses ; and the most prominent build- 
 ings are the very old one called " Leicester's Hospi- 
 tal," peculiarly interesting to Americans from the 
 visit paid to it and charmingly described by Haw- 
 thorne, and the Church of St. Mary's with its many 
 fine antique monuments. 
 
 Warwick Castle, standing on a rocky eminence 
 overlooking the town and at the side of the Avon, 
 is a massive pile of great beauty, yet in repair and 
 resided in by the Earl of Warwick. The finest view, 
 and one immortalized in many paintings, can be 
 caught from the old bridge over the Avon, and it is 
 one never to be forgotten. Access may be had to 
 the Castle at certain hours (before 10 A. M., when 
 the Earl is at home) ; and within may be seen the 
 celebrated " Warwick Vase," splendid armor and rel- 
 ics in the Armory, etc.
 
 IN ENGLAND. 147 
 
 At Warwick rail may be taken, for a very brief 
 ride through lovely scenery, to 
 
 SxEATFORD-ox-Avox, the home and burial-place 
 of Shakspeare, and the pilgrimage of more of the wor- 
 shippers of genius than possibly any other single 
 spot on the globe. A quiet, lazy old town, with the 
 Avon flowing gently through it, and the whole at- 
 mosphere seeming that of centuries ago. At Strat- 
 ford, unlike other places, the tirst object of interest 
 is found in a hotel, 
 
 The Red Horse, made famous to Americans by 
 Washington Irving in his " Sketch Book," and almost 
 as distinguished, now, as the old home of the poet. 
 From the Red Horse it is but a few minutes, on foot, 
 to 
 
 Shakspeare 's ^Birth-Place^ an humble old timber- 
 and-plaster building, partially restored and well pre- 
 served, on Henley Street, so well known as to all its 
 characteristics that nothing more need be said than 
 that the birth-room is found on the second floor, 
 front, with its window covered with inscriptions, 
 like the walls ; that there is a Shakspeare Museum 
 attached, in the more modern part of the building ; 
 and that the house is courteously shown as well as 
 carefully kept by Mrs. and Miss Ashwin, the latter 
 deservedly complimented by Hawthorne in his " Old 
 Home." The same walk may be easily extended to 
 the 
 
 Church of the Holy Trinity, a handsome half- 
 modern building standing amid fine elms at the 
 Avon side, and within which Shakspeare's tomb and 
 monument, and the tombs of his family, are shown in
 
 148 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 the chancel ; the record of his birth and death in a 
 very old parchment-bound book, in the vestry ; the 
 font in which he was baptized (if at all), in the 
 nave, etc. The Grammar School, New Place, the 
 bridges over the Avon, etc., should also be included 
 in the walk, the whole not necessarily occupying 
 more than two or three hours. One of the open car- 
 riages, or " flys," for which Stratford is not a little 
 famous, may profitably be employed for a two or 
 three miles ride across the edge of the lovely Vale of 
 Evesham, coming round by 
 
 Anne Hathaway 1 s Cottage, at the very old and tum- 
 ble-down but attractive-looking little hamlet of Shot- 
 tery, where the dramatist courted and married his 
 wife, and where, apart from those associations, a 
 charming antique cottage and many interesting rel- 
 ics are shown. The fly should be dismissed at Shot- 
 tery, in fine weather, and the way made back to 
 Stratford on foot, across the fields, by what has been 
 known ever since his day as " Shakspeare's Court- 
 ing-path." 
 
 Stratford should be left by carriage (tine weather 
 again understood, and likely to be found in June, 
 best month in England), for the twelve or fifteen 
 miles to Leamington. The scenery is somewhat tame, 
 but softly beautiful throughout. At three or four 
 miles from Stratford will be skirted the grounds of 
 
 Charlecote Hall and Park, alleged to be the place 
 of Shakspeare's early deer-stealing (in a different 
 way from that at Shottery) and of bis arraignment 
 for the offence. The Park is magnificent, Avith its 
 massive old oaks, fine sward, and herds of deer
 
 71V ENGLAND. 149 
 
 really among the finest belonging to less than royalty 
 in the kingdom ; and Charlecote Hall, imposing Avith- 
 out, offers, within, to the few favored, visitors (it is 
 not commonly shown) even more of charm, in splen- 
 did rooms, tine pictures, many antiquities, and one 
 set of ebony-and-ivory furniture, presented to the 
 Earl of Leicester by Queen Elizabeth at Kenilworth, 
 matchless in rarity and value. 
 
 Ten or a dozen miles beyond Charlecote, with a 
 few pleasant 'little hamlets passed, presents the end 
 of the brief but charming Warwickshire pilgrimage, 
 
 <-> 1 ~ O 7 
 
 in 
 
 Leamington, one of the Saratogas orBallstons of 
 England handsomely situated on the little river 
 Learn clean and a little too dainty-looking, with 
 fine grounds and walks and a weakness for "Pa- 
 rades '' and " Villas." It is well worthy of an hour 
 or two of stroll, and a little of the Spa-water should 
 be drunk, to see if it is any worse than that of the 
 American Spas, after which 
 
 Rail for the brief ride from Leamington to Rug- 
 by, one of the three great stations on the Liverpool 
 and London road, where Dickens's " Mugby Junc- 
 tion " may be seen by peeping into the refreshment- 
 rooms, and whence the way will be direct to the 
 British capital if the tourist wishes to go southward. 
 
 MANCHESTER AND SHEFFIELD. 
 
 Neither of these towns, the one the head of cotton- 
 manufacturing in Great Brita-in, and the other sup- 
 plying the same place to steel and cutlery- work of
 
 150 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 perhaps the whole world is reckoned as coming with- 
 in the short-trips previously arranged. But those 
 who may have even a day more of time on their 
 hands at Liverpool, than originally contemplated, or 
 who may choose to neglect something else for them, 
 can see both, hurriedly, within that space. 
 
 MANCHESTER lies only about thirty miles east of 
 Liverpool, and can be reached in an hour, by rail. 
 It lies on the Irwell, a small branch of the Mersey, 
 has nearly half-a-million of inhabitants (second or 
 third in the kingdom) ; has some handsome bridges 
 connecting it with Salford (opposite) ; the Cathedral 
 Church of St. Mary's, old and with fine monuments ; 
 the Exchange, Town-Hall, etc., all worthy of notice ; 
 but of course the prime motive of visit is to see 
 
 The Cotton-Mills, wonderful in their number and 
 extent, and the perfection of their machinery, and 
 supplying more than half the cotton-goods used in 
 the world. Permission to go through them is attain- 
 able through introduction to any of the managers, 
 easily obtained at Liverpool by those who have any 
 commercial, shipping or personal acquaintance there. 
 
 SHEFFIELD lies some fifty miles beyond Manches- 
 ter, still eastward, and is reached by the M. and S. 
 Railway from the latter place, in one-and-a-half 
 hours. It has not much more than one-quarter the 
 size and population of Manchester ; the prevailing 
 furnace-smoke makes it dingy and dusky ; and there 
 are few public buildings of prominence. The attrac- 
 tion nearly all lies in the immense 
 
 .Steel and Cutlery Manufactories, models of their 
 class and unequalled in size and costly machinery.
 
 iy ENGLAND. 151 
 
 Admission liable to the same conditions before noted 
 with reference to Manchester. 
 
 PROMINENT ENGLISH WATERING-PLACES. 
 
 The English watering-places are very numerous, 
 and the short-trip tourist may manage to visit one 
 or more of them, marine and inland. A brief note 
 of several of the most prominent will be made, with 
 directions for reaching, as off-shoots from other routes, 
 and hints of their several characteristics. 
 
 CHELTENHAM, the most fashionable of the Spa- 
 Springs, lies about thirty miles due south from Bir- 
 mingham, and may be most conveniently reached by 
 rail from thence, except by those who are going far- 
 ther south to Bristol or Plymouth, who will necessa- 
 rily pass through it. Or, it may be taken on the way 
 from Liverpool to London, by Birmingham; from 
 Cheltenham to Bristol, and thence by Great West- 
 ern Railway direct to London. Or from Chelten- 
 ham across to 
 
 OXFORD, the great seat of learning, with its wil- 
 derness of Colleges and fine grounds, and thence to 
 London. 
 
 The attractions of Cheltenham are very like those 
 of Saratoga, though with greater age and finish. 
 Beautiful grounds and parades, costly hotels and in- 
 numerable boarding-houses, spring-houses and all the 
 accompaniments of pleasure-seeking, make it singu- 
 larly-pleasant and fashionably-popular. 
 
 BATH, formerly the superior of Cheltenham in 
 Spa-visiting, but now only its rival, is a handsome old 
 town lying on the Avon, ten miles from Bristol (on
 
 152 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 the G. W. Railway towards London); and has all 
 the characteristics spoken of with reference to Chel- 
 tenham, with yet more pretentious buildings, some 
 ridiculously-pleasant memories of the Prince Regent, 
 Beau Xash, and other prominent fops, and a fine old 
 Abbey Church, with monuments. 
 
 LEAMIXGTOX, the third of the Spas in importance, 
 has already been spoken of and the mode of approach 
 indicated, in the just-closed account of the Shak- 
 speare neighborhoods of Warwickshire. 
 
 Of the sea-shore watering-places the most fashion- 
 able, at the present writing, is 
 
 SCARBOROUGH, on the northeast coast, about 
 forty miles northeast from York, and reached by 
 rail from that city. It has a fine bold coast, splen- 
 did bathing, fine hotels, and now attracts much of 
 the best society. Next to it (formerly far before it), 
 conies 
 
 BRIGHTON, for many years the sea-bathing-place 
 par excellence, of the British Islands. It lies on the 
 British Channel, about forty miles east from South- 
 ampton, or from the eastern point of the Isle of Wight 
 about fifty miles from London, whence it is reached 
 in two hours by the London, Brighton and South- 
 Coast Railway. It has a regular population of some 
 80,000, very often increased by visitors, in Septem- 
 ber and October, to 100,000. It has many fine build- 
 ings among others the Royal Pavilion, built by 
 George IV. when Prince Regent; and the Marine 
 Wall, Chain Pier and promenade are all worthy of 
 special notice, while probably at no place in Great 
 Britain can the mixed-society and customs of a water-
 
 AV ENGLAND. 153 
 
 ing 'place be better observed. Steamer can be tak- 
 en from Brighton to Dieppe (France) if desirable. 
 
 THE ISLE OF WIGHT and the coasts opposite form 
 a collective summer resort for many thousands; 
 while the Queen's residence on the island (Osborne 
 House), the abode there of many other distinguished 
 people, Carisbrooke Castle (in which Charles I. was 
 confined), and the neighborhood of the Portsmouth 
 and Gosport great navy-yards and naval depots 
 make this section a very interesting one to those pos- 
 sessed of more spare time than the supposed short- 
 trip tourist. (Southampton, Portsmouth, the Isle of 
 Wight, etc., are reached in some three hours by rail- 
 way from London, from which they lie southwest.) 
 
 RHYL AND LLANDUDNO are two Welsh watering- 
 places of prominence, both lying on the coast, not 
 far from Liverpool and easily reached by boat thence. 
 Both give fine views of the Welsh coast and moun- 
 tains; Llandudno is now very fashionable; and 
 Rhyl is famous for the donkey-rides which it supplies 
 mountainward. 
 
 MAKGATE, RAMSGATE and HASTINGS supply sea- 
 bathing very extensively to Londoners, and especial- 
 ly to the middle classes at an earlier period of the 
 summer than witnesses the filling up of the more 
 fashionable resorts. Margate lies at the south lip of 
 the Thames, some seventy miles from London, east, 
 and just within the point known as the North Fore- 
 land j while Ramsgate lies a few miles southward, 
 beyond the point and on the open channel. Both 
 are reached by the Southeastern Railway from Lon- 
 don, in some four hours ; and both have certain curi-
 
 154 8HORT-TBIP GUIDE. 
 
 osities in the way of piers, promenades, etc., deserv- 
 ing attention ; while at Ramsgate particularly, and 
 at Margate in only a less degree, the s} 7 stem of 
 bathing by means of bathing-machines, or covered 
 carts (rendered necessary by the great rise and fall 
 of tide), can be studied to excellent advantage. 
 
 HASTINGS (one of the Cinque Ports) on the Chan- 
 nel, some twenty miles east of Brighton, is also a 
 place of considerable resort, to be reached by either 
 the Southeastern or the London, Brighton aud South- 
 Coast Railways. 
 
 There are a variety of other and minor watering- 
 places, marine and inland, but the most notable have 
 here been indicated; and the hurried tourist will 
 easily be able to select any lying nearest to his in- 
 tended route and involving the least extra-expendi- 
 ture of time and money. 
 
 ENGLAND TO SCOTLAND. 
 
 There are three principal approaches to Scotland, 
 for American tourists, and their routes are generally 
 determined by those modes of approach. 
 
 The first is by steamer direct to Glasgow (as 
 treated of in the chapter on " Look-outs and Land- 
 makings"), or by coast-steamer from Liverpool to 
 Glasgow, on the west, or London to Edinburgh, on 
 the east. 
 
 The two great remaining approaches are both by 
 railway from Liverpool to Glasgow, to go eastward 
 through the Highlands to Edinburgh and London 
 to Edinburgh, to go westward through the High- 
 lands to Glasgow.
 
 1ST ENGLAND. 155 
 
 Liverpool to Glasgow. 
 
 By the first, the London and Northwestern road 
 is taken at Liverpool (as in going to the Cumberland 
 .Lakes), passing through Lancaster, Preston, Kendal, 
 etc., as by that route, to 
 
 Carlisle, on the Border, situated on the bank of 
 the river Eden, which runs into the near Solway 
 Frith. It has some manufactories, but is much more 
 interesting for its associations with border-warfare, 
 and for the remains of the old Castle, said to have 
 been built as a defence against the Scots, by William 
 Rufus. 
 
 The head of the Solway Frith is crossed a few miles 
 beyond Carlisle, and the course then continues north- 
 ward and westward, through somewhat rugged and 
 fine scenery, without passing through any towns of 
 special importance, though here and there with a re- 
 minder of history to Glasgow. Time from Liver- 
 pool to Glasgow, nine to ten hours. 
 
 .London to Edinburgh. 
 
 Those who go up from Liverpool to Glasgow, can 
 most properly return from Edinburgh to London, the 
 eastern as well as the western part of the kingdom 
 being thus traversed. For such as do so, the route 
 following will only need to be precisely reversed in 
 its details. 
 
 From London to Edinburgh, the Great Northern 
 Railway is taken actual running time about twelve 
 to fifteen hours. The first stopping-place of the ex- 
 press-trains is at 
 
 14
 
 156 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Peterborough, a small old town, with no particu- 
 lar interest except the remains of a fine old Cathedral 
 in which Catharine of Arragon (Queen of Henry 
 VIII.) and Mary Queen of Scots (originally) were 
 buried. 
 
 The next place of importance is 
 
 Newark (from which the New Jersey town took 
 its name), a small town, with, again, little of interest 
 except an old castle, now in ruins, said to have been 
 occupied by King John at the time of his death. 
 The next is 
 
 Doncaster, celebrated for its races, and not of the 
 least importance except when they are in progress 
 (during the early recess of Parliament September). 
 Then 
 
 YORK, a fine old city, on the Ouse, where Constan- 
 tine the Great is alleged to have been born, some 
 1600 years ago, and famous in all English history. 
 Even the most hurried should lie over one train, 
 here, to see the magnificent 
 
 York Minster, or Cathedral, the second largest 
 in England, and considered one of the finest in the 
 world begun in the seventh century, though prin- 
 cipally built in the thirteenth and fourteenth. The 
 old walls of the city are yet standing, and supply a 
 charming promenade ; while there are some public 
 buildings well worthy of attention. A drive out of 
 the town, about five miles westward, will supply an 
 interesting view of 
 
 Marston Moor (Long Marston), where Charles I. 
 suffered perhaps his worst defeat from the Parlia- 
 mentary armies.
 
 7JV ENGLAND. 157 
 
 Beyond York, the ride is unbroken, until reach- 
 ing 
 
 JVeiocastle-iipon-T'i/ne, the celebrated centre of the 
 English coal-trade, even a few minutes' pause at which 
 shows that it is composed of coal, coal-dust, coal- 
 vans, and other indications of the collieries. Shields, 
 the great coal-port, lies a few miles eastward, at the 
 mouth of the Tyne. 
 
 Beyond Newcastle the tourist crosses the histori- 
 cal Northumberland, the border-shire, celebrated in 
 all the troubles with the Scots. If time does not 
 press too closely, by changing from the express to a 
 local train at Newcastle, a visit may be paid to 
 
 AlnwicJc Castle, lying only two or three miles 
 westward from the main line, with a branch-road 
 leading thither. Alnwick, the old home of the 
 Percies, Earls and Dukes of Northumberland, is one 
 of the finest ruins in Great Britain ; and it is pecu- 
 liarly interesting to Americans, from the celebrity 
 given to it by Halleck in that most charming of po- 
 ems bearing the same name. 
 
 Taking the main-line again at little Alnwick Sta- 
 tion, the road runs thenceforth very near to the bor- 
 der of the German Ocean on the right, with frequent 
 views of that historical ocean, over which the Danes 
 came to subjugate Britain all the way to 
 
 lienoick-on- Tweed, at which fine old toAvn the 
 Tweed is crossed by a bridge and the scenery seems 
 to roughen and become more picturesque from the 
 very moment of touching the Scottish soil. 
 
 From Berwick the run occupies some two hours, 
 through the mountain and coast scenery made im-
 
 158 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 mortal by Scott in the "Bride of Lammermoor," 
 over Haddingtonshire and the Lothians, with a brief 
 stop at the fine old town of Dunbar, till the Frith 
 of -Forth opens ahead and to the right, and the tour- 
 ist is disembarked at Edinburgh.
 
 XL 
 
 CROSSING THE BEITISH CHANNEL.. 
 
 NEABLY a dozen routes of transit present them- 
 selves, between England and France, and especially 
 between the two great cities, London and Paris. 
 But three special routes seem to possess advantages 
 over all others, and to these the hurried tourist may 
 well confine himself. 
 
 Those three are : ' 
 
 1st. Steamer between Dover, England, and Ca- 
 lais, France. Distance about twenty-four miles, and 
 time one and a half to two hours. From London by 
 Southeastern Railway. 
 
 2d. Steamer between Folkestone, England, and 
 Boulogne-sur-Mer, France. Distance about twenty- 
 eight miles, and time one and three-quarters to two 
 and one-quarter hours. From London by South- 
 eastern Railway. 
 
 3d. Steamer between Newhaven, England, and 
 Dieppe, France. Distance sixty-five to seventy miles, 
 and time six to eight hours. From London by Lon- 
 don, Brighton and South-Coast Railway. 
 
 By all these routes the passage is more or less 
 terrible, except in unusually calm weather ; and 
 there is really very little difference between them, 
 except as to the time consumed and the lines with 
 which they connect. The boats on all of them are
 
 160 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 staunch, safe and uncomfortable meet with few 
 accidents, but generally land their passengers more 
 dead than alive, from sea-sickness. 
 
 For going to France, with at all decent weather, 
 and for the first time, the line by Newhaven and 
 Dieppe may well be chosen, as it is to be supposed 
 that the man (or even the woman) who has endured 
 ten days on the Atlantic can endure six to eight 
 hours on the Channel, and as by that route both 
 Dieppe and Rouen, two of the handsomest old cities 
 in France, can be hastily seen, while the way toward 
 Paris will be taken by the French Chemin de Fer de 
 r Quest (Western Railway), through a portion of 
 Lower Normandy more exquisitely beautiful than 
 almost any other strip of the same extent on the 
 Continent. 
 
 For the return to England, if to be made at all 
 from France (as usual) the Chemin de Fer du Nord 
 (Northern Railway) should be taken from Paris, as 
 by that route another portion of Normandy will be 
 passed through, with the fine old city of Amiens ; 
 both Boulogne, on the French side, and Folkestone, 
 on the English (termini of the other line) will be 
 likewise passed through, though hastily ; and the 
 voyager will enjoy the opportunity of noticing the 
 old walls and gates of Calais, so celebrated in the 
 long wars of the Henrys and Edwards, between 
 England and France, and of marking the appearance, 
 from the Channel, of Dover Cliffs, made doubly 
 notable by Shakspeare (in "King Lear"), Dover 
 Castle, and the " White Cliffs of Albion," generally, 
 as seen at their highest.
 
 CROSSING THE BRITISH CHANNEL. 161 
 
 The route by Boulogne and Folkestone is mean- 
 while an excellent one, for either way, and the op- 
 portunity which it affords of spending even an hour 
 in Boulogne, so well known as the paradise of run- 
 away English debtors, is not to be despised. For 
 the reasons given, however, the two others may be 
 held preferable, in the order named for the going 
 and return trips. It should be added that the run 
 from Paris to Boulogne, so far as it goes, is the same 
 as that to Calais the French Northern Railway 
 (Chemin de Fer du JVbrd), and that by that, also, 
 Amiens is passed through, with its memories of a 
 treaty in which the United States of America were 
 once largely interested.
 
 XII. 
 
 SHOET TEIPS IN FRANCE. 
 DIEPPE TO PAEIS, BY EOUE2f. 
 
 .CROSSING the Channel from Newhaven, the first 
 object of interest is to be found in the high piers, 
 with narrow entrance and gaudily-gilded colossal 
 crucifixes on them, of the very old French town of 
 
 DIEPPE, port at which the English kings were 
 in the habit of landing in their wars with France, 
 and to which Sir William Wallace, th'e hero of Scot- 
 land, is said to have brought the pirate Longueville 
 after capturing him off the harbor. Some hours can 
 be profitably spent here, in viewing the odd French 
 houses ; the old Chateau de Dieppe (Castle) on the 
 hill to the west, said to have been founded by Char- 
 lemagne ; the bathing-grounds, with their fine Etab- 
 lissement des .Bains (dancing and gambling house) ; 
 the splendid hotels, with their handsome gardens 
 and lawns; some of the narrow streets with very 
 old houses ; the confined dock-basins ; the handsome 
 old churches of St. Jacques and St. Remi, etc. 
 
 If time suffices, a ride of two or three miles, and 
 return, will afford an excellent peep into mediaeval 
 history, in the 
 
 Castle of Argues, once owned and occupied by 
 Henrv V. of England, and near which he won the 
 
 / O
 
 jy FRANCE. 163 
 
 decisive battle of that name now a splendid old 
 ruin, with one of the grandest of the archways yet 
 remaining. 
 
 Away from Dieppe, the railway, as has been 
 already said, crosses one of the loveliest lines of 
 Lower Normandy, with willowcd water-courses, pic- 
 turesque hills, valleys, chateaux and cottages, pass- 
 ing the chateau-dominated old town of Monville on 
 the left, and striking the pleasant winding Seine but 
 half-an-hour before stopping at 
 
 ROTTEN, after Paris, unquestionably the most in- 
 teresting city in France, from historical associations, 
 architecture, and beauty of location. It lies on the 
 north bank of the Seine, with rolling hills westward; 
 has extensive cotton-manufactories stretching along 
 the river ; and historically recalls (principally) Henry 
 V., who besieged it for nearly a year Joan of Arc, 
 who was burned here and the Regent Duke of Bed- 
 ford who burned her. In architecture and relics it 
 is even richer; for the Cathedral and the Abbey 
 Church of St. Ouen dispute with Xotre Dame, at 
 Paris, the claim of being the most magnificent of. 
 churches, while the great stained-glass windows of 
 St. Ouen certainly excel either, and the monuments 
 of the Cathedral include those of Rollo, first Duke 
 of Normandy, Richard Cceur de Lion, Prince Henry, 
 and many others ; in the Place de la Pucelle is to be 
 seen the spot where Joan of Arc was burned by the 
 English ; in the Church of St. Gervais is remarked 
 the spot where William the Conqueror died ; and in 
 the Museum of Antiquities are to be found the heart 
 of Cceur de Lion (what little remains of it) in a glass
 
 164 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 casket, charters signed by William before Hastings, 
 etc. 
 
 All these, and some of the finest old houses of 
 Rouen, can be well enough seen in one day, though 
 longer space could be well employed. So much 
 " skims " the glory of the old city, at least, and the 
 route to Paris may be resumed. 
 
 There is not much of additional interest between 
 the capital of Korrnandy (Rouen) and that of 
 France. The scenery is tamer, though very pleasing 
 in portions; and only one town of importance is 
 passed, after leaving Rouen, Tourville, at only half- 
 an-hour's distance. Xearly all interest, however, is 
 concentrated on the pleasure in advance ; and indeed 
 it is not certain that some tourists do not commence 
 to look for the spires and monuments of the great 
 city, from the very moment of leaving Dieppe. 
 
 The run from Dieppe to Paris usually occupies 
 about six hours; and the approach, as the course of 
 the road would indicate, is from the northeast. The 
 first object meeting the eye, coming near, is the Fort 
 .of Vallerien, one link of the immense and formidable 
 chain of fortifications surrounding the city, by which 
 it could be laid in ashes or put under contribution 
 within two hours. This is seen to the right, before the 
 city is fairly visible. Then come the handsome Heights 
 of Montmartre, towering over the city on the left, 
 with their pleasant shade and suggestions of luxuri- 
 ous residences. And then, as the next curve of the 
 railway is rounded, the city itself heaves into view, 
 with one colossal pile seeming to overtop it all, which 
 the tourist scarcely needs to be told is the Arc
 
 iy FRANCE. 165 
 
 d'Etoile, or Arch of Triumph of the Star, hereafter to 
 be alluded to, and one of the mightiest and most 
 imposing of all the monuments of Europe. 
 
 Thereafter comes the necessity (easily supplied) 
 of cab-hiring for destination, and the whirl, glitter 
 and confusion of the nearest of all approaches to the 
 stereotyped phrase, "Modern Babylon." But with 
 this arrival comes the necessity of another paper. 
 
 AT AND ABOUT PAEIS. 
 
 More guide-books, works of description, and 
 would-be aids to the traveller, have been written 
 about Paris than any other city on the globe more, 
 even, than about London, which is saying much. 
 Most of them confuse the hurried reader by attempt- 
 ing too much ; nearly all of them bewilder the hur- 
 ried traveller, by supposing that he has four times 
 the length of days or hours really at his disposal, 
 and setting him at the impracticable. This error will 
 not be reached in the present instance : all that will 
 be/ attempted will be merely to indicate, in the brief- 
 est manner, a few of the most notable of the notable 
 things of the "world's capital" (as Frenchmen and 
 Franco-phobians delight to call it), and some order 
 of time and mode for seeing them to the best advan- 
 tage. 
 
 For a long stay, of course lodgings would be de- 
 sirable ; for a few days, some hotel is by far prefer- 
 able, and there is plenty of choice. If very deficient 
 in French, unaccompanied, and able to meet the 
 small additional expense the tourist would do quite 
 as well to take an English-and-French-speaking valet
 
 166 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 de place (obtainable at any hotel, by inquiring at the 
 office) for the most important of his sight-seeings. 
 With such a guide, cab-hire will be a little reduced, 
 as different objects of interest may be visited with 
 less expenditure of time and " leg-weariness," through 
 the valet's knowledge of " cross-cuts," in the latter 
 of which Paris even excels Boston. 
 
 The valet de place out of the question, however, 
 the cab recurs. The cab-system of Paris is very 
 nearly or quite as excellent as that of London ; and 
 a cab for one or two persons (sometimes for three) 
 can be obtained at 1-^ to 2 francs the course (any 
 distance inside the fortifications), or 2 to 4 francs the 
 hour, when many stoppages are to be made. The cab 
 should accordingly be used freely, and the ex- 
 pense will be nearly saved in boot-leather and quite 
 in health and temper, especially as Paris is sultry in 
 midsummer. 
 
 (FIRST DAY.) Devote half the day on foot, if 
 accompanied or guided (distances being short), to 
 
 The Seine (river) its Quays and Bridges. The first 
 is very small, muddy, and historically interesting ; 
 the second are very high, massive, and worth study 
 for the sake of their cost, the charming walks and 
 drives along them, the arrangements for getting down 
 to the docks below, the baths along their sides, etc. ; 
 and the third are very numerous, handsome and du- 
 rable, spanning the river at all points in front of the 
 city, as well as from the He de la Cite (City Island), 
 and the He St. Louis, lying above it. The next half 
 day, and in immediate connection, may well be de- 
 voted to
 
 /JV FRANCE. 167 
 
 The Palace of the Tiiilerlcs (outside), the resi- 
 dence of the Emperor ; the scene of many historical 
 events, including two attacks and captures by the 
 populace, at the dethroning of Louis XVI. in 1793 
 and Louis Philippe in 1848 ; and the exponent of 
 more orders in architecture, and a better effect pro- 
 duced by an indiscriminate jumble, than any one, 
 not a madman, could have believed. Also to the 
 
 Gardens of the Tuileries, extended and beauti- 
 fullys-haded grounds lying immediately in front of 
 the Palace, with statuary of rare merit, fountains, 
 etc., supplying one of the favorite promenades to 
 Parisians of all classes and ages, and especially to 
 children with their nurses. Next to the 
 
 Place de la Concorde, connecting the gardens 
 with the Champs Elysees. An open space, with splen 
 did fountains and colossal statuary, and with the 
 great red-granite Obelisk of Luxor in the midst, 
 brought from Thebes in Egypt at immense expense, 
 and standing on the very spot where during the 
 early part of the Reign of Terror stood the guillo- 
 tine on which perished Louis XVI., his sister, Marie 
 Antoinette, and twenty-eight hundred others. Next 
 into the 
 
 Champs Elysees (Elysian Fields), adjoining the 
 Place de la Concorde on the west, the great home 
 pleasure-ground of Paris, covering some forty acres, 
 bordering on the Seine and extending to the Arc 
 d'Etoile at the extreme western point. Magnificently 
 shaded ; laid out with walks ; cut through its whole 
 length by the Avenue des Champs Elysees, through 
 which all the aristocratic carriages drive, every after- 
 15
 
 168 SHOUT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 noon, going to or returning from the Bois de Bou- 
 logne ; full of arrangements for out-of-door amuse- 
 
 o / o 
 
 ments, and studded at every turn with cafes chan- 
 tantes (singing coffee-houses), cafes for refreshment, 
 etc. ; and with thousands of chairs, kept for cheap 
 hire by the hour, in which the tourist can sit when 
 tired and see the procession of fashion and oddity 
 roll by. Before leaving the Champs, a glimpse should 
 be caught of the Elysee Napoleon, an old palace, 
 once the Elysee Bourbon, at the north side, where 
 Napoleon signed his abdication, while the whole 
 building has had an intimate connection with French 
 history. Return towards the centre of the city, if 
 boarding there, as supposed, by the 
 
 Column in the Place Venddme, a splendid spirally- 
 wreathed pillar, erected by Napoleon in honor of his 
 victories, and covered with emblematic figures of his 
 campaigns, as well as topped with a figure of the Em- 
 peror. The day may properly be finished by a visit to 
 
 The Madeleine, one of the handsomest churches in 
 Paris or the world pure Grecian, with surrounding 
 of splendid columns, and statues in niches, outside ; 
 and with elaborate architecture, marvellously rich 
 altars and altar-services, and some chefs d'ceuvres in 
 painting and sculpture, over the altars and employed 
 as altar-pieces. At no other of the Parisian churches, 
 either, can better views be caught of the uniformed 
 and sworded vergers connected with the churches, 
 who seem a cross between a police-officer and a ma- 
 jor-general. The evening of this day may well be 
 spent in catching a first glimpse by gaslight of some 
 portions of
 
 AV FRANCE, 169 
 
 Tlie Boulevards, very wide tree-bordered streets, 
 commencing at the Madeleine on the Avest, and run- 
 ning, with different names, across and around the 
 principal portions of Paris, to the Place de la Bastille 
 at the cast. They are lined, throughout, with shops, 
 brilliant with articles for sale ; with open cafes for 
 refreshments within or on the side-walk; and no 
 spectacle in the world is more brilliant than that 
 presented on the Boulevards Italicns, dcs Capucines, 
 Montmartre, etc., every evening from dusk till mid- 
 night, all nations, dresses, languages, and characters 
 mingling in splendid confusion and forming one of 
 the most attractive features of Paris. 
 
 (SECOND DAY.) This day a cab should be taken, 
 by the hour, as the distances to be made are much 
 greater. The first visit may well be paid to the out- 
 side and inside of 
 
 The Jtourse, the great stock-exchange of Paris, 
 France, and half Europe, a splendid colonnaded 
 building, with a magnificent and very large gal- 
 leried hall within, surrounded by the names of the 
 chief cities of France, where stock operations are 
 carried on. (If a spare hour should chance to allow, 
 a second visit here, at noon or a little later, would 
 be well repaid by hearing what Frenchmen on 
 'Change can do in the way of gabbling and gesticu- 
 lating.) From the Bourse to the 
 
 Palais Hoyal, once a royal palace, as its name in- 
 dicates, and still retaining the galleries and immense 
 and beautiful gardens of that occupation, within its 
 extensive quadrangle but now the most extensive 
 collection of shops and restaurants in the world (the
 
 170 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 latter including the celebrated " Trois Freres Proven- 
 caux," "Verys" and other well-known and costly 
 habitats of luxury. Passing towards the He de la 
 Cite, be sure to look out for and note, in passing, 
 the 
 
 Tour St. Jacques (Tower of St. James), a splen- 
 did Gothic tower of great height and beauty ; the 
 very old and odd-looking 
 
 Church of St. Germain VAuxerrois, from which 
 tolled out, from the bell still hanging (as is said), the 
 tocsin for the awful Massacre of St. Bartholomew ; 
 and to visit the 
 
 Church of St. Itoch, on the still-standing steps of 
 which took place one of the bloodiest fights of the 
 Revolution (that of the 13th Vendemiaire) ; while 
 the church has the distinction of giving the best 
 music in Paris, of possessing much internal beauty 
 and splendor, and of showing many fine pictures, 
 among others a "St. Roch, Preaching," by Ary 
 Scheffer, with the most wonderful of golden lights 
 shed on it through the stained glass above. 
 
 The Church of St. Eustache, where a common 
 courtesan was once enthroned in the place of God, 
 should also be seen ; and near it, the 
 
 Holies Centrales, or Central Market of Paris, with 
 its extent and peculiarities. So much done, it is well 
 to cross to the 
 
 lie de la Cite, noticing, on going over the bridge, 
 the round, pointed-capped towers, studding the 
 water's edge at the right side of the island, of 
 
 TJie Conciergerie, the terrible prison in which 
 Marie Antoinette was confined before her execution,
 
 iy FRANCE. 171 
 
 and from which so many hundreds of victims went 
 forth to the guillotine, during the Reign of Terror. 
 The unfortunate Queen's room may still be seen, 
 within, by those who have time to visit it ; and also 
 on the upper end of the same island, for those who 
 have both time and inclination, are the 
 
 Palace of Justice, a tine old building, with many 
 historical reminiscences, and 
 
 The Morgue, the celebrated dead-house in which 
 the bodies of people "found drowned" are exhibited 
 for identification. But the principal attraction to 
 the He de la Cite is found in the magnificent 
 
 Notre Dame, one of the architectural glories of 
 Paris and the world with two immense square tow- 
 ers, wonderful architectural effects in the portals and 
 whole elaborate front, and some of the finest Gothic 
 arches in Europe in the vast interior. Notre Dame 
 has, in addition, a wealth of stained-glass windows 
 of rare size and excellence ; some splendid side-chap- 
 els ; a magnificent High Altar, at which Napoleon 
 and Josephine were crowned ; and the additional 
 celebrity of being the spot round which (see the 
 novel for explanations published in English under 
 the title of the "Hunchback of Notre Dame ") Vic- 
 tor Hugo wove his great novel, "Notre Dame de 
 Paris." It is, perhaps, the most impressive ecclesi- 
 astical object in Paris, and scarcely excelled in Eu- 
 rope in either grandeur or historical association. (At 
 the door of Notre Dame is the place for making 
 arrangements for carriage to Versailles as there 
 is a specialty of the master of those excursions 
 always keeping in readiness for any day and hav-
 
 172 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 ing an agent there for that pitrpose. Inquire for 
 Mons. Dulorin.) 
 
 Crossing back to the north side of the Seine, from 
 the He cle la Cite, a visit should at once be paid to 
 the 
 
 Hotel de Ville (City Hall), standing on the river 
 bank, opposite the island, and very pleasing in its an- 
 tique architecture, at the same time that it possesses 
 the very highest historical interest. A visit should 
 be paid to the inside of this great municipal build- 
 ing, as many of its interior appointments are quite 
 equal to those of any palace on the globe tine pic- 
 tures, statuary, costly hangings, etc. Immediately 
 in front of it is the 
 
 Place de la Hotel de Ville, now merely an open 
 space, but formerly the Place de Greve, where the 
 great body of the executions by the guillotine took 
 place during the Reign of Terror, and where it is 
 estimated that not less than thirty thousand persons 
 fell by that colossal " chopping-knife.^' It is almost 
 impossible, even now, to look upon it without a 
 shudder and a suspicion that the ground must still 
 remain soaked with blood. 
 
 From the Hotel de Ville the ride is a brief one, 
 through the Faubourg St. Antoine what is known 
 as peculiarly the " dangerous quarter" of Paris, to 
 the place where the Bastille stood and was destroyed. 
 During this ride, a few moments may be Avell spent 
 in stopping at some one of the numerous poor-look- 
 ing wine-shops, for some excuse, to observe the places 
 where the dangerous "Jacquerie" met at and before 
 the Revolution well described bv Dickens in his
 
 71V FRANCE. 173 
 
 "Tale of Two Cities." This section of Paris is very 
 old and squalid -looking, and is not the place for 
 night-rambles, however efficient the police. This 
 "brings us, however, to the 
 
 Place de la Bastille, the spot where stood the 
 great fortress of oppression, Avhere it was torn down 
 with such threatening demonstrations in 1789, and 
 where now stands the 
 
 Column of July, a tall and very handsome fluted 
 column, crowned with a figure of Mercury, and 
 erected in honor of those who fell in the street-fights 
 of the Revolution of 1830, when Charles X. was 
 driven from the throne. 
 
 Beyond the Place de la Bastille, at no very great 
 distance, the tourist passes between the two buildings 
 of the great criminal prison of La Roquette, hand- 
 somely built, like fortresses, and in the court-yard 
 of which most of the executions by the guillotine, of 
 the past years, have taken place. Beyond, very 
 soon, all appearances indicate the approach to a 
 great cemetery, especially in the number of cheap 
 and tawdry articles for the decoration of graves, kept 
 for sale on either hand. Then comes the gateway of 
 
 fere la Chaise, the great cemetery of Paris, and 
 renowned throughout the world for the vast number 
 of its distinguished dead. As a cemetery, and com- 
 pared with American grounds of the same character, 
 it is a humbug and a swindle, having little or noth- 
 ing of the beauty of either Greenwood, Mount 
 Auburn or Laurel Hill, and not to be mentioned 
 beside Glasnevin Cemetery, at Dublin. Carriages 
 are not allowed to enter ; and half to three-quarters
 
 174 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 of an hour's walk is quite sufficient to observe its 
 street-rows of square tombs, with streets between 
 them ; its occasional spots of well-shaded beauty ; 
 the miserable shabbiness of its poor-quarter (at the 
 back), huddled together, with wooden crosses and 
 cheap wreaths ; its little chapel on the top of the 
 eminence, with altar and religious statues within, 
 and a fine view of Pai'is from in front of it ; and the 
 tombs of Marshal Ney and a few others, with the 
 splendid chapel-tomb of Abelard and Heloise, one of 
 the pilgrimages of the cemetery, lying not far from 
 the lower right-hand corner, taking the point of view 
 from the entrance. 
 
 This round, with the direct drive back to the 
 place of lodging, may well have filled the day pretty 
 closely ; but there may still remain spirit and wish 
 for an evening ride to the Champs Elysees, to see its 
 night-beauty of lights and breadth of gayety, to sup 
 at some one of its many cafes, and perhaps to spend 
 an hour of the earlier evening at the 
 
 Alcazar &Ete, one of the most noted of the open- 
 air concert establishments, where good singing is a 
 certainty, and a later hour, or two, at the 
 
 tTardin Mdbille, an exquisitely-wooded and shrub- 
 beried circle, flashing with lights and supplying 
 dancing-music all the evening, lying on the Avenue 
 Montaigne, at the Rond Point and in the immediate 
 vicinity of the Avenue des Champs Elysees where 
 the gayer varieties of Parisian life may be witnessed 
 by those so inclined, and where the cancan may be 
 enjoyed in what the Parisians (and some of the 
 Americans) consider its " purity."
 
 IN FRANCE. 175 
 
 (THIRD DAY.) Cab again, for only a short dis- 
 tance, to the 
 
 Hotel Cluny, site of the old Roman Palais des 
 Therm.es, part of the walls of which yet remain, 
 while the Hotel itself contains a very interesting 
 collection of antiquities (among other tilings the 
 celebrated ivory-lock, which " must be seen to be 
 appreciated "), chapel where James IV. of Scotland 
 was married, etc. Thence over the Seine, by any 
 one of the numerous bridges, to the 
 
 Champ de Mars, for a long time the great parade- 
 ground of Paris, full of historical recollections of the 
 Revolution and the First Napoleon, with the splendid 
 and extensive buildings of the Ecole Imperial Mili- 
 taire bounding it at the end opposite to the river. In 
 the centre of this, as many thousand Americans for- 
 tunately know from recollection, stood the Great 
 Exposition Palace of 1867, while the whole Champ 
 was turned into a magnificent park, filled with floral 
 and arboricultural treasures and the buildings of all 
 nations. Within sight of the Champ de Mars, to the 
 left and behind, diagonally, comes the great point 
 of interest of the day, the 
 
 Hotel des Invalides, an immense structure for 
 military hospital purposes, built by Louis XIV., 
 afterw r ard taken up by Napoleon, and still used for 
 that noble end. The principal points of interest to 
 be visited are the Officers' and Soldiers' Refectories, 
 with their scarred veterans, odd arrangements, old 
 pictures of Louis XIV.'s battles, etc. ; the picture- 
 galleries, with much trash, but some valuable kingly 
 reminiscences; the Chapel, where the rotting battle-
 
 176 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 flags, from the Oriflamme of St. Louis to those taken 
 at Sebastopol, hang and moulder ; and the Domed 
 Church, commonly spoken of as 
 
 " The Dome of the Invalides" at the opposite ex- 
 tremity of the entrance, and entered separately from 
 without, in a sunken sp'ace within the floor of which, 
 in a green marble sarcophagus, surrounded by his 
 mouldering battle-flags, and weeping figures in mar- 
 ble, lies the body of the First Napoleon. The Church 
 is very beautiful within ; and the High Altar and 
 the light shed upon it are peculiarly fine ; while 
 handsome monuments to Joseph Bonaparte, Turenne, 
 Vauban, etc., are to be seen, besides the veterans of 
 the First Empire, who there keep guard against any 
 impropriety of action on the part of the ever-pressing 
 crowd. 
 
 While on this side of the Seine, should be visited, 
 too, 
 
 The Pantheon, largest of the churches of Paris, 
 and one of the finest, with magnificent side-chapels 
 (especially that of St. Genevieve, with its gilded 
 screen) ; burial of Voltaire, Rousseau, Mirabeau, Mar- 
 shal Lannes, Bougainville and many others, in the 
 vault below ; and noble inscription over the front (in 
 French) : " To the Great Men Remembered by their 
 Country." Then comes the 
 
 Church of St. Etienne du Mont, near the Pan- 
 theon, very beautiful within, and especially noted for 
 its splendid spiral stairway, unique in architecture, 
 and some of its exquisite side-chapels. Glimpses 
 may also be caught of St. Sulpice and other church- 
 es ; and a visit should be paid to the neighboring
 
 iy FRANCE. 177 
 
 Palace of the Luxembourg, one of the largest 
 and finest of the royal reminders, with its splendid 
 collection of pictures and antiquities ; and on the 
 return homeward, corresponding glimpses may be 
 caught, on the Seine bank, of the 
 
 Corps Legislatif, or Congress Hall of France, 
 and many other public buildings, certain to be called 
 to attention by guide or driver. 
 
 A third evening has now been found for any 
 theatre or opera-house that may be chosen. 
 
 (FOURTH DAY.) Take open carriage (weather al- 
 lowing, as generally in Paris at midsummer), for Ver- 
 sailles by Sevres. (Twelve to twenty francs per per- 
 son two-and-a-half to four dollars gold will easily 
 supply an excellent conveyance for the day, with 
 guide, coachman, and fees paid.) The drive will be 
 through the Champs Elysees, by the Avenue, to the 
 end at the extreme height, where stands the 
 
 Arc (TEtoile, a magnificent sculptured arch, the 
 largest in Europe, erected by Napoleon to commem- 
 orate his victories of 1805, and the colossal sculp- 
 tures having reference to him. The ascent to the 
 top of the Arc, which commands the finest of views 
 over Paris, is a matter of time, taste, and legs. It 
 is a better thing to say one has done, than to do. 
 Beyond the Arc, and driving down the Avenue de 
 1'Imperatrice, by the Porte Dauphine, is almost im- 
 mediately entered 
 
 The JBois de Boulogne, a splendid wood, once 
 and a quarter the size of the New York Central 
 Park, with unlimited expense lavished on its walks 
 and drives; with two beautiful lakes (Lac Superieure
 
 178 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 and Lac Inferieure), for pleasure-boating; a cascade 
 at the extremity, of peculiar artificial grace (the 
 Cascade de Longchamps) ; the Emperor's race-course 
 of Longchamps in full view at the fai-ther extremity ; 
 and all the peculiarities going to make up the hand- 
 somest pleasure-ground in Europe though nothing 
 finer, nor so fine, in bridges or other erections, as the 
 Central Park will be when it has age and tree- 
 growth. (The return from Versailles is also to be 
 made through the Bois, at that early hour in the 
 evening when all the fashionable riders of Paris and 
 half Europe roll along these splendid drives in their 
 carriages, with horsemen in abundance, and an un- 
 limited quantity of foot people and couples of stroll- 
 ing lovers, taking the shady walks or lounging under 
 the trees, not warned to " keep off the grass," as in 
 American pleasure-grounds.) 
 
 Not far beyond the Bois de Boulogne the Seine 
 is crossed, with a view of 
 
 St. Cloud, another of the royal-imperial resi- 
 dences, palace and park ; and not far beyond conies 
 
 tSdvres, a small town, of whicli the only attrac- 
 tion is the imperial manufactory of porcelains, where 
 tourists are allowed to inspect some of the most 
 splendid works of art, in that line, made in any coun- 
 try. A few miles farther bring 
 
 VERSAILLES, palace and park, considered one of the 
 wonders of the world, even among royal residences. 
 Built' by Louis XIV., and ever since more or less 
 constantly occupied as one of the favorite residences 
 of the ruler. Among the curiosities to be seen here, 
 are the
 
 iy FRANCE. 179 
 
 Great Picture -Galleries of the palace, filled with 
 rare and valuable works in painting, sculpture and 
 antiquities (the rooms said to measure some eight 
 miles in extent) ; the 
 
 Napoleon and Josephine lioorns., with the beds, 
 chairs, tables, and many other memorials of both ; 
 the 
 
 Trianon, with sedan-chairs and other memorials 
 of Madame de Maintenon ; the 
 
 Fountain of Latona, and other fountains in im- 
 mense profusion considered among the finest in the 
 world; the 
 
 Gardens and flower -Walks, likewise considered 
 unequalled ; the 
 
 Park, of wondrous extent and breadth of shade, 
 with its culmination in the " Tapis Vert," voted as 
 the finest avenue of shade and sward in Europe, 
 and. with Louis XV.'s "Petit Trianon" hidden 
 away at some distance from the palace and nearer 
 grounds. 
 
 Dinner should be taken, this day, at the Hotel 
 du Reservoir, once the residence of Louis XV.'s 
 chere amie, Madame de Pompadour, and a favorite re- 
 sort of gourmands and fashionables; after which 
 the drive back, through the Bois de Boulogne (be- 
 fore alluded to) should include a visit of a few mo- 
 ments to the 
 
 Pre Catelan, an inner beauty of the Bois, more 
 glorious in flowers and foliage than any other por- 
 tion, with an oddly-pretty little open-air summer 
 theatre ; and if time should serve, then or otherwise, 
 an hour in the 
 
 16
 
 180 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Jardin <JT Acclimatization, a sort of floral and 
 zoological garden, also within the Bois, especially 
 noted for its variety of rare birds, goats, and the 
 more harmless animals. 
 
 (FIFTH DAY.) All this day, if possible, should be 
 spent in viewing the outside and wandering through 
 the galleries of 
 
 The Louvre, once a royal palace, but now the 
 most extensive museum in the world (with perhaps 
 the exception of the British), adjoining the Palace of 
 the Tuileries on the east, and of course reached on 
 foot. Among its notable features, apart from the 
 extent and beauty of the building itself, will be 
 found the 
 
 Great Picture -Galleries, of which the extent, 
 filled with rare paintings, sculpture and curiosities, 
 is said to be about ten miles, affording one of the 
 costliest and most celebrated of collections. Chief 
 among these is the 
 
 Grand Gallery, filled with works by the great 
 painters of antiquity, scarcely a notable name unrep- 
 resented, and the whole rivalling the galleries of the 
 Vatican at Rome and Escurial at Madrid. Next in 
 importance, to the tourist, are two apartments in what 
 is called the " Museum of Napoleon III." first the 
 
 Royal Antiquity Chamber, where may be seen 
 the sword and sceptre of Charlemagne, the armor 
 woj*n by Henry IV. at Ivry, the armor and swords 
 of many of the other kings, the prayer-books of 
 Mary Queen of Scots and Marie de Medicis, etc. ; 
 and next and even more important, the 
 
 Napoleon Room, where are to be found tho coro-
 
 IN FRANCE. 181 
 
 nation robes of the First Emperor, his camp-chest, 
 camp-bed, clothes worn at St. Helena, and a hun- 
 dred other affecting memorials of the Great Corsican, 
 attracting undivided attention and interest. 
 
 These comprise, of course, only a fraction of the 
 attractions of the Louvre, but they may be all that 
 the short-trip traveller can command. To those who 
 have abundance of time, abundance of other objects 
 will present themselves, without any necessity of 
 present mention. The Apollo and Vernet Galleries, 
 however, should not be passed without notice; 
 and the same may be said of the Hall of the Seven 
 Chimneys, where Henry IV. died after being stabbed 
 by Ravaillac. 
 
 (SIXTH DAY.) Visit, at some six miles from Paris 
 (by cab), the 
 
 Cathedral Church of St. Denis, in the old town 
 of the same name, where the French kings have been 
 buried, ever since the time of Dagobert, and where 
 many interesting monuments and memorials of them 
 can be found, though the revolutionary mob tore 
 open their coffins and threw the bones into ditches, 
 in '93, to have them restored with difficulty (!) in 
 1816. The Cathedral is itself very fine in architec- 
 ture, with some of the best stained glass in France ; 
 and the vaults may be visited by those ambitious of 
 royal mould and damp. 
 
 The St. Denis excursion can easily be made in 
 half a day; and this, with six days to remain, leaves 
 half a day for " chores." 
 
 One fact, however, should be mentioned. Some 
 of the buildings which most positively require to be
 
 182 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 entered, are only open on certain days ; and the suc- 
 cession of days here marked out may sometimes re- 
 quire to be changed accordingly, though with proper 
 arrangement the order of any one day will not need, 
 to be so changed. All the churches, except Notre 
 Dame, are open every day: that, on Wednesdays, 
 Fridays and Sundays, 11 to 4. The Tomb of Napo- 
 leon, at the Invalides, can only be seen on Mondays 
 and Thursdays, 12 to 3. The Bourse is open every 
 day. Hotel Cluny, every day, 11 to 5. Palace of 
 the Luxembourg, every day, 10 to 4. Louvre, every 
 day except Monday, 12 to 4. Versailles, every day 
 except Monday. St. Denis, and all the public gar- 
 dens, grounds and monuments, every day. 
 
 Not many A'isitors to Paris need to be told that 
 Sunday is the liveliest day of the week, with every- 
 thing open to the gay ; while the more serious can 
 find service in all the churches, and splendid choral 
 services in the principal ones. 
 
 For those who have longer time to spend at and 
 about the capital, there are of course fifty additional 
 points of interest not here named among others, 
 the Conservatory of Arts and Measures, the Mint 
 (Hotel des Monnaies), the Gobelin Tapestry Manu- 
 factory, the Jardin des Plantes (natural history), the 
 School of Fine Arts, the Museum of Artillery, the 
 Palace of Fine Arts, etc.. etc. 
 
 As to theatre-going for grand opera, the Grand 
 Opera is to be visited; for light opera, the Opera 
 Comique or the Varieties is preferable ; for comedy, 
 the Theatre Fran9ais ; for spectacle, the Porte St. 
 Martin.
 
 XIII. 
 
 PAEIS TO GENEVA. 
 
 [Before briefly sketching this route and the short Swiss tour 
 to follow, it may be well to say that there is an Englishman named 
 Thomas Cook, who has agencies in London, Paris and some other 
 cities, for arranging " Excursions " and selling through tickets for 
 certain routes and return, at much less than the regular fares de- 
 manded (first or second class, optional) ; and that for those who 
 leave Paris for Switzerland and Germany, to return there, he may 
 be dealt with to advantage one of the benefits of the " Cook's 
 Tourist Tickets " being the saving of much inconvenience in pur- 
 chasing route-tickets at the various line-intersections.] 
 
 LEAVE Paris for Geneva by the early morning train 
 of the Lyons and Mediterranean Railway, breakfast- 
 ing before starting. Never take the afternoon train, 
 as by that means much fine scenery would inevitably 
 be lost on one portion of the route or another; and 
 never arrange to go the whole distance without stop- 
 ping, for the same reason. Those who leave Paris 
 in the morning and go directly through, travelling 
 all night, lose the Valley of the Rhone, one of the 
 finest in Europe ; and those who leave in the after- 
 noon lose the views of the vineyards and rural sce- 
 nery of Southern France. 
 
 The train passes, a few miles from Paris, running 
 southeastward, by the town of Melun, and 
 
 Fontainebleu, tower and old royal residence, pal- 
 ace and park, of which a mere glimpse is caught from 
 the train. The scenery is flat and tame, but " French "
 
 184 SHORT- TRIP GUIDE, 
 
 and interesting, during all the early part of this day. 
 Many river-glimpses are caught first of the Seine, 
 and then of the quiet little Yvonne, the banks of 
 which are very closely followed by the railway, all 
 the way to 
 
 Tonnerre (English, " thunder"), a town of no par- 
 ticular mark, where the halt is made for dinner, and 
 an exceedingly good one (table d'hote] always pro- 
 vided. The second halt of consequence is made, two 
 or three hours later, at 
 
 Dijon, a fine old city, with abundance of histori- 
 cal reminiscences but little time to note them and still 
 catch a trifle of supper. At Dijon the course changes 
 to almost due south, terminating, at nearly nightfall, 
 at 
 
 Macon, on the river Saone, famous for its wines, 
 and well worthy of the evening spent before retiring, 
 and the next morning before train-time, to see its 
 little " Champs Elysees," where the people amuse 
 themselves in the evening, d la Paris ; its odd old 
 streets, fountain and market ; its odder people, hand- 
 some modern church, river with boats running down 
 to Lyons, etc. Sleep at Macon, and leave next morn- 
 ing by train for Geneva. 
 
 Cars are changed at Bourg, and again at Ambe- 
 rieux, to catch the train up from Lyons ; but some 
 pleasant glimpses of the Saone and the distant moun- 
 tains eastward compensate for this inflection. Very 
 soon after leaving Amberieux commences the ascent 
 of the 
 
 Valley of the Rhone, one of the wildest and most 
 picturesque on either continent; the road passing
 
 PAEIS TO GENEVA. 185 
 
 over steep inclines and through narrow rock-bound 
 passes, until reaching 
 
 Culoz, where the scenery becomes yet wilder and 
 grander, with the Rhone spanned by bridges, tun- 
 nelled for miles, rolling hundreds of feet below 
 (something like Niagara below the Falls, but much 
 wilder), and presenting one of the most splendid bits 
 of engineering in any land the " Tunnel de Credo," 
 2$ miles in length, and the "Valserine Viaduct," 
 rival of the Starucea, being among the most notable 
 features, and ever-memorable glimpses of the distant 
 Swiss mountains are caught, in tine weather, from 
 Culoz, onward ; but it is only on reaching 
 
 Bettegarde, where the route changes from France 
 to Switzerland, that in the clearest weather is caught 
 the 
 
 First glimpse of Mont IZlanc, eighty or one hun- 
 dred miles to the right, with the Aiguillettes and 
 other points of the great snow range of Savoy. (In 
 order to have even the chance of catching this never- 
 to-be-forgotten first glimpse, the right-hand side of 
 the carriage is desirable.) 
 
 One to two hours after entering the Swiss terri- 
 tory, all the while running through the passes and 
 plunging across the ravines of the Jura range of 
 mountains, is reached the end of that special jour- 
 ney, and one of the most beautiful, beautifully-locat- 
 ed and historic cities of Europe, 
 
 Geneva !
 
 XIV. 
 
 SHORT TKIPS IN SWITZERLAND. 
 GENEVA AND CHILLON. 
 
 GENEVA, charmingly situated, as already indi- 
 cated, lies at the extreme southwestern point of the 
 Lake of Geneva, otherwise known as Lake Leman. 
 It stands on both sides the lake-foot, and of the 
 Rhone, which here debouches from it. The views 
 from it are perhaps unequalled by those from any 
 other city on the globe, the lake spreading away far 
 to the north and east, the fine dark range of the Jura 
 in full view to the north and west, and the nearer 
 mountains of the southern side of the lake (called by 
 Cooper, in the "Headsman," the "ramparts of Sa- 
 voy ") showing to the southeast, with Mt. Blanc and 
 the other giants of the snow-range always visible in 
 fine weather. 
 
 The city is very old, and has much historical in- 
 terest, especially as connected with the wars of Sa- 
 voy, and with John Calvin (who preached and resided 
 here), and many of the events of the Reformation. 
 It probably contains about 50,000 inhabitants , has 
 many manufactures ; and is celebrated, world-wide, 
 for its construction of the popular Swiss watches. 
 The most interesting of all its buildings is 
 
 The Cathedral (St. Pierre), built about 1050, a 
 noble Gothic building, containing the tombs of Duke 
 
 O * O
 
 AY SWITZERLAND. 187 
 
 Henry de Rohan and the Cointe d'Aubigny, French 
 Protestant leaders under Louis XIII. and Henry IV. ; 
 and (under the pavement) of Cardinal Jean de Brog- 
 nier, President of the Council of Constance, and other 
 ecclesiastical celebrities; and the canopy of the pul- 
 pit (not the pulpit itself, as sometimes alleged) once 
 filled by Calvin. The arches and stained glass, and 
 the old presbyters' stalls, are very fine ; and the 
 echo of music or the voice is peculiarly notable. 
 Next in interest to the Cathedral, come the 
 
 Hotel de Ville, and the Arsenal, in the latter of 
 which the collection of arms is very fine. After 
 these, the next are the 
 
 Musee Roth (a Museum), with a very fine collec- 
 tion of pictures and sculpture, and the 
 
 Musee Academique, with antiquities, geological 
 collection and reading-room ; and 
 
 Itousseait's Jfouse, near the latter. But quite as 
 interesting as any of the buildings, after the Cathe- 
 dral, are the 
 
 bridges the beautiful Pont des Bergues and 
 Pont du Mont Blanc, spanning the river at the centre 
 of the city, while from the former shoots out ,1 little 
 shaded island, of peculiar beauty, forming a favorite 
 promenade, known as 
 
 JRousseaifs Garden (lie de J. J. Rousseau), so 
 named from its having been a favorite resort of the 
 author of " Abelard " and the " Confessions." The 
 promenades along the quais, on both sides, are very 
 delightful, with their views of the lake, the odd 
 lateen-rigged schooners, the distant mountains, etc. ; 
 and especially delightful is the
 
 188 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Jar din Anglais (English Garden), overhanging 
 the waters on the south side, where military concerts 
 are given almost every evening during the summer. 
 (It should be added, that nearly or quite all worth 
 seeing in Geneva can be better seen on foot than 
 with the cost of a cab or other conveyance.) 
 
 Whatever the other arrangements, one day should 
 be spent (leaving Geneva at 8 A. M.), in taking steam- 
 er up the lake to Chillon, and return at early evening. 
 This gives the most delightful of views of lake and 
 mountains, passing, and stopping at many of them 
 (all on the north side) the charmingly situated 
 shore-towns of Yersoix, Coppet, Nyon, Rolle, St. 
 Prex, Morges, Ouchy (with Lausanne at a little dis- 
 tance behind), Lutry, Cully, Vevey and Montreux, 
 until the landing is made at Yeytaux-Chillon, and a 
 few minutes' ride or walk (the latter easiest attain- 
 able) brings the tourist to the 
 
 CASTLE OF CHILLON, a fine old turreted chateau, 
 more than half fortress, with round and square tow- 
 ers of very unequal heights, standing at the edge of 
 the lake, near the extreme eastern end, overhung by 
 frowning mountains. This was once a residence of 
 the Dukes of Savoy, afterwards a prison, but owes 
 nearly all its celebrity to Byron's having made it the 
 scene of his affecting poem, the " Prisoner of Chil- 
 lon." . 
 
 The points best worth notice in this fine old pile 
 are 
 
 The Drawbridge and Moat, where something may 
 be learned of the uses and mode of operating those 
 appendages, in the far past ; the
 
 iy SWITZERLAND. 189 
 
 Dungeons (oubliettes), part of them lying beneath 
 the surface of the lake, and fearfully dismal ; the 
 
 Great Audience Chamber, where the Dukes of 
 Savoy gave audience, now occupied with arms and 
 flags of the Helvetian Republic ; the 
 
 Chapel, where the prayers must have been pecu- 
 liar; then, en suite, the 
 
 Chamber of the Condemned, where the doomed 
 passed their last night on cold stones ; followed by 
 the 
 
 Execution-Room, with a trap-door ready to slide 
 the beheaded bodies into the lake, and so save 
 trouble ; and that succeeded by the last and most 
 interesting of all, 
 
 BonnivarcFs Prison, the scene of Byron's mas- 
 ter-work, with its " seven columns," the third bear- 
 ing the name of " Byron," said to have been cut 
 there by his own hand, and the fifth yet holding the 
 massive chain and ring to which Bonnivard was fet- 
 tered its high, narrow-slitted windows, looking out 
 over the lake (if they could only be reached) and all 
 the suggestions of an age of cruelty not yet quite 
 ended. 
 
 The return to Geneva is made by boat ; and dur- 
 ing the return-voyage, as in going up, if the weather 
 is fine, there are many chances of seeing, once and 
 again if not continually, Mt. Blanc, the " monarch 
 of mountains," and some of his brother snow-capped 
 giants.
 
 190 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 EXCURSION FROM GENEVA TO CHA3IOUNI, AND RE- 
 TURN. 
 
 Those who make only the briefest of the brief 
 tours in Switzerland, must give up the hope of see- 
 ing the Valley of Chamounix, and Mont Blanc from 
 that much nearer point of view (one of the noblest 
 of all the attractions presented by the "land of 
 mountains "), trusting to the mountains of the Ber- 
 nese Oberland to supply the omission and give the 
 best possible idea of the sharp, rugged peaks, bald 
 or snow-crowned, and many of them of needle sharp- 
 ness ; the glaciers, or rivers of ice, that sweep be- 
 tween them and around their feet ; the long strips 
 of snow lying all summer down the vertical ravines, 
 half way from peak to foot ; the innumerable cas- 
 cades pouring and dashing down from the melted 
 snows, sparkling, flashing and gleaming white on 
 every hand ; the marvellously-fertile narrow valleys, 
 with the green "Alps" stretching mountainward 
 from them ; and the infinite variety of hanging- 
 roofed and galleried chalets (houses) often curiously 
 carved and ornamented in their timber-and-shiugle 
 enclosures, and always with rows of large stones 
 seeming to be holding down the roofs all this, 
 which combines to fill up the peculiar odd charm of 
 Swiss scenery and make it a recollection never to be 
 forgotten. These, for the very-short-trip tourist, 
 must be deferred : he (as hereafter to be explained) 
 must push on direct from Geneva for Berne and 
 through the Oberland. 
 
 The luckier tourist, however, who can add some
 
 7J\T SWITZERLAND. 191 
 
 four days to this portion of his whole route (as in 
 the ten or thirteen weeks' arrangement), and the ad- 
 ditional expense involved, should make Chamounix 
 a certainty, going to it by one route and returning 
 by the other, as follows : 
 
 Connect the excursion with that from Geneva to 
 Chillon, leaving out the return from the latter. 
 Leave Geneva by boat for Chillon, as before desig- 
 nated, visit the Chateau, take the evening boat from 
 Chillon to 
 
 Vitteneuve, only a mile or two beyond, at the ex- 
 treme eastern end of the Lake, where the Rhone 
 empties into it. From Villeneuve (a town of some 
 age but little consequence), by rail, to 
 
 Martigny, a very old town, dating back to the 
 Roman times, and said then to have been the capital 
 of a province ; now principally of consequence as the 
 place whence the Monks of St. Bernard draw their sup- 
 plies for the Hospice, and the point whence the ascent 
 of the Alps is commenced by the Simplon or Great St. 
 Bernard Passes, besides dividing with Sallanches (on 
 the other side) the travel to Chamounix. It lies at 
 the bottom of the depression formed by the sloping 
 down of the Great Alps (Mt. Blanc or ' ; snow 
 range ") on the south, and the Bernese Alps on the 
 north, and necessarily ends railway travel in that 
 direction. 
 
 The route from Martigny may be made on foot, 
 by good travellers, but much easier by mule, for 
 those who ride better than they walk, or even as 
 well. The leading points of interest (fully pointed 
 
 out and explained by guides, whether the tourist is 
 17
 
 192 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 mounted or on foot) are Martigny-le-Bourg (where 
 the little river Dranse is crossed), La Fontaine, Sar- 
 mieux, Chavans en Haut, to the 
 
 Col de la fbrdaz, the summit of which may be 
 ascended by those who wish a splendid view over 
 the whole valley of the Rhone, but avoided by the 
 leg-weary who need to husband their strength. 
 
 From the Col de la Forclaz the road descends, 
 passing the small village of Orient, directly winding 
 through the dark Forest of Magniu, reaching, after 
 rising again 'by a tough climb, the 
 
 Col de Balme, boundary between Switzerland and 
 Savoy, from two different stations, on the top of 
 which, in fine weather, perhaps the finest mountain- 
 side view is obtained, in the world the whole chain 
 of Mt. Blanc being visible, from crown to foot, look- 
 ing southward, with the Valley of Chamounix and 
 the great Glaciers ; and looking back northward, the 
 Jungfrau, Finsteraarhorn and other giants of the 
 Bernese Oberland being visible. 
 
 From the top of the Col de Balme the descent 
 commences, in view of the river Arve, and passing a 
 noted landmark, the 
 
 Homme de Pierre (Man of Stone), to Tour, a 
 small village, with the Glacier de Tour near and in 
 sight. Near Tour the little river Buisme is crossed ; 
 and half an hour brings the tourist to 
 
 Argentiere, a mountain tour of much beauty and 
 some prominence, whence a carriage may be taken 
 or the route finished on foot, to Chamounix. 
 
 (The ascent from Martigny to Chamounix may 
 ba made by a very different route that known as
 
 iy SWITZERLAND. 193 
 
 the T-ete Xoire, the divergence being made not long 
 before reaching the Col de la Forclaz, and some of 
 the most startling passes in Switzerland accom- 
 plished, besides passing through the Roche Percee 
 [Pierced Rock] ; but by that route the view from the 
 Col dc Balme would be lost entirely, and the in- 
 creased fatigue of the passage, in that direction, in- 
 duces the much more frequent taking of the course 
 just described, while those going from Chamounix 
 to Martigny oftenest take the Tete Noire.) 
 
 Chamounix lies at the head of the Valley of the 
 Arve, northward of Mt. Blanc and so near that the 
 gi-eat mountain may be literally said to overshadow 
 it views of the monster and its chain being attain- 
 able from any quarter. It has nearly a dozen of 
 hotels and some 2,500 inhabitants ; and it supplies 
 a marked attraction during all the "Alpine season," 
 in the number of tourists and pleasure-seekers con- 
 tinually arriving, departing, setting out upon and 
 returning from the many excursions to be made in 
 the neighborhood. 
 
 It is from Chamounix that the ascents of Mt. 
 Blanc are made ; but this, of course, is out of the 
 line of the short-trip tourist (as indeed of most sen- 
 sible people) , who will not be expected to spend 
 about $200 (gold), peril life, and fatigue himself be- 
 yond a month's recovery, by any such climb. Look- 
 ing up to a mountain, from the immediate foot, is 
 generally preferable (after one knows both) to look- 
 ing down from it ; and Mt. Blanc and the Yale of 
 Chamounix furnish no exception to the rule. 
 
 There are some excursions, however, which may
 
 194 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 and should be made, even by those who linger but a 
 single day, while those who have several days at 
 command (and who are consequently out of our pur- 
 view) may easily learn more from the guides about 
 more extended excursions, than could find any ap- 
 propriate place here. This one day at Chamounix 
 should be spent in ascending the 
 
 Montanvert (Green Mountain), an eminence on 
 the east side of the valley, w r ith some two to three 
 hours' climb (two to descend), from which the most 
 magnificent of views can be obtained not only of the 
 great mountains of the chain, but of the Glaciers 
 which fill all the higher gorges, called the Mer cle 
 Glace above and the Glacier du Bois below, and al- 
 together some twelve miles long by 1^ to 4-J in width 
 the lower portion reaching down to the valley of 
 Chamounix. This ascent should be made in the 
 morning (ahvays with a guide for whatever is to be 
 done during the day), because then the rugged and 
 difficult path is in shade and less fatiguing. 
 
 From the Montanvert it is usual (now, even for 
 ladies, though they should only attempt it if iu fair 
 health and sure-footed) to 
 
 Cross the Mer de Glace to the Chapeau on the op- 
 posite side a difficult ice-climb of half to three-quar- 
 ters of an hour, which will generally be found quite 
 " enough of glacier " for the moderate. The 
 
 Mauvais Pas (difficult steps) steps hewn in the 
 rock, not far from the Chapeau, is the most " pokerish " 
 point. The view from 
 
 The Chapeau, a limestone precipice on the north- 
 east side of the Glacier, is considered nearly equal to
 
 Itf SWITZERLAND. 195 
 
 that -from the Montanvert. Many pause here, for 
 return ; but those who have yet some strength and 
 courage unexpended, will try the much more difficult 
 scramble over the Glacier du Talefre to 
 
 The Jcfrclin, whence the views, so to speak, 
 into the icy bowels of Mont Blanc can be bet- 
 ter caught than elsewhere without ascending it. 
 Of course provisions, as well as guides, require to be 
 taken for the day; and of course the day is no " child's 
 play," except to practised mountaineers. The return 
 to Chamounix occupies some six hours quite all that 
 will remain of the longest day, which may be set 
 down, however, if successfully carried throiigh, as 
 the most glorious in all European touring. 
 
 The return from Chamounix to Geneva should 
 be made by way of Servoz, Sallanches or St. Martin, 
 Cluses and Bonneville. Light carriages may be 
 taken to 
 
 Sallanches, from the bridge of which, over the 
 Arve, splendid backward views of Mont Blanc and 
 other mountains may be obtained. From Sallanches 
 to Geneva by diligence ; the whole route being made 
 in nine to ten hours, and the most wonderful splendor 
 and variety of mountain scenery being threaded 
 throughout. 
 
 GENEVA TO BERNE AND INTERLAKEN. 
 
 From Geneva to Berne by rail, close along the 
 northwestern side of the Lake of Geneva, to 
 
 Lausanne, a very beautiful town, famous as a 
 residence and with some historical reminders among
 
 196 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 others, of Gibbon and Voltaire ; then shooting away 
 northeastward, from the Lake, with last glimpses of 
 the Mt. Blanc range (in fine weather) by 
 
 jRomont, " a very old town climbing up a side- 
 hill," and very queer in its many towers and Lom- 
 bardy-poplars, to 
 
 Freybourg, an older and larger town, sti'addling 
 the gorge of the Same, with a fine old many-pinna- 
 cled Cathedral and the celebrated organ, built by 
 Aloys Moser without help or money (some of us 
 would like to have his secret !), and considered one 
 of the grandest in the world. Many lie over at Frey- 
 bourg for a train, to see the Cathedral and the great 
 suspension-bridges, and hear the organ (played every 
 day, at 12 noon and 8 p. M.), and the time is cer- 
 tainly not wasted. From Freybourg but a short ad- 
 ditional ride to 
 
 BERXE, capital of Switzerland, lying on the rapid 
 river Aar, with a specialty of " Bears," some 30,000 
 to 40,000 inhabitants, and much general interest. 
 Among its features, noticeable even in a few hours' 
 stay, are its splendid whole streets of arcaded shops 
 (the Grand Rue especially notable); the marvellous 
 amount of wood carvings kept for sale ; the many 
 old fountains ; the Old and Xew Bridges over the 
 Aar (the former said to be five or six hundred years 
 old), and the railroad bridge (trellis), one of the 
 highest in the world ; and then of yet more impor- 
 tant specialties, 
 
 The Cathedral, old and fine, with remarkably 
 beautiful entrance, and grand organ, on which play- 
 ing may be heard nearly every night during the sum-
 
 AY SWITZERLAND. 197 
 
 mer,' splendid statue of Rudolph von Erlach in front, 
 etc. ; the 
 
 Terrasse de Cathedral, a beautiful promenade, 
 hanging pokerishly over the Aar, with some inter- 
 esting monuments ; a tough story of a knight, who 
 once leaped doAvn into the Aar on horseback and was 
 not killed; and the most splendid of views, espe- 
 cially at early evening, of the Jungfnui, the Monk, 
 the Eiger, and the whole white-crowned range of the 
 Bernese Oberlancl. Then come the 
 
 Federal Palace (Congress Hall of Switzerland), of 
 no special interest, however, without or within ; and 
 the 
 
 Fosse del Ours (bear-pit), lying beside the Aar, at 
 the foot of the Grand Rue, with some noble speci- 
 mens of the tribe of.Bruin, who occasionally eat up a 
 drunken traveller when he falls into their embraces. 
 
 Berne has also a mechanical clock worthy of no- 
 tice, with a crowing cock and moving figures. 
 
 From Berne to the Lake of Thun (at Scherlingen- 
 Thun) by railway ; thence by boat down the Aar 
 and the Lake, with magnificent views of the Jung- 
 
 7 O O 
 
 frau, Monk, Eiger, Aarhorn, Finsteraarhorn, and 
 other great peaks of the Oberlancl, to Xewhans, 
 where the diligences of the General Post are taken, 
 and a brief ride brings the tourist to 
 
 INTERLAKEST, " heart of the Bernese Oberland," as 
 it has been called a very handsome and very Swiss 
 old town, lying on the Aar, with TJnterseen, a small 
 suburb, across the river, and the Jungfrau in full 
 view from any one of the many fine hotels that stud 
 the principal street. Interlaken is famed for its
 
 198 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 shops for the sale of wood-carvings arid other curi 
 osities, and far more as the favorite resort of tourists 
 who wish to combine magnificent scenery with taste- 
 ful quiet ; and it may perhaps be considered match- 
 less, as a summer residence, in Switzerland. It has 
 a Kursaal, used for dancing, music and reading ; 
 mountain views almost unequalled ; and a multitude 
 of tine walks, combined with the opportunity for 
 excursions innumerable. Those which should cer- 
 tainly be made, at all hazards, are the following : 
 
 By three-horse carriage (for a party of four, five 
 or six, easily made up), up the Valley of Grindel- 
 wald, to the 
 
 Glaciers of GrinclelwaM, running down to the 
 valley between the Eiger and Middenthal with a 
 walk (well wrapped) into the ice.-caverns underlying 
 it, and an ascent of one of them if none of those near 
 Mont Blanc have been " done." (If they have, these 
 may as well be avoided, as secondary.) Thence 
 around into the \ r alley of Lauterbrunnen, to the 
 
 Falls of Lauterbrunnen (Staubbach), a single thin 
 sheet falling a sheer thousand feet ; in the midst of 
 perpendicular-cliff scenery of wonderful grandeur. 
 This double excursion will occupy one day, and a 
 highly interesting and memorable one ; and let not 
 the tourist forget to set some of the "Alpine horns " 
 blowing along the road (for a small fee) and carry 
 away the fine echoes among the mountains or fail 
 to listen when, late in the return, his attention is 
 called by guide or driver to the ruined Castle of 
 Unspunnen, where Byron is said to have laid the 
 scene of his " Manfred."
 
 iy SWITZERLAND. 199 
 
 [Those who have a little more time fit command 
 and do not object to a little more sharp climbing 
 may well take the Grindelwald excursion as enough 
 for a single day, and blend with that to Lauterbrun-' 
 nen the ascent of the 
 
 Wengern Alp, in the neighborhood but beyond, 
 where the national wrestling-matches arc held on a 
 broad pasture at the top, on the first Sunday in 
 August, and from which the best of all views of the 
 whole range of the great Oberland Mountains, the 
 Jungfrau, Monk, Breithorn, etc., and the whole val- 
 ley of Lauterbrunnen, may be obtained.] 
 
 The second of the absolutely-necessary excur- 
 sions from Interlaken consists in taking the steamer 
 on the Lake of Brienz (half-mile walk, east), to the 
 landing of Giessbach, and thence ascending the 
 mountain to the handsome hotel and 
 
 Fall of Giessbach, making some thousand feet in 
 four leaps from the top of the cliffs to the lake, amid 
 trees and spanned by airy bridges, and without 
 doubt one of the loveliest cataracts on the globe. 
 A night spent at the hotel is said to supply a great 
 added charm in the lighting of the Fall (done every 
 clear night) ; and the trip down the lake and back 
 is a lovely one in the mountain-girt lake-scenery 
 not excelled by either Geneva or Lucerne. 
 
 Among the walks around Interlaken, which should 
 be taken if time allows, is that to the Jungfraublick, 
 from which one of the finest of all views is caught 
 (half-hour walk) ; the Heimwehfluh (three-quarter 
 hour), another magnificent view ; the Hohbuhl (half 
 hour) ; the ruins of Unspunnen (three-quarter hour),
 
 200 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 etc. Of rides, the finest remaining is that to the 
 Schining Platte, from which the valleys of Lauter- 
 brunnen and Grindelwald can both be seen at once. 
 
 IXTERLAKEN TO LUCERNE, THE RHIGI AND BALE. 
 
 For Lucerne, the boat on the Lake of Brienz is 
 taken, as in going to Giessbach, affording another 
 view of that beautiful lake, and this time for the 
 whole length. The landing is made at the old 
 town of 
 
 Brienz, not especially notable except for that 
 fact ; whence diligences are taken, the route ascend- 
 ing sharply, with fine views over the Aar and -the 
 Lake of Brienz, to the summit of the 
 
 JBrunig JPass (at Brunig-kulm) ; thence down, 
 with corresponding rapidity and still with fine views, 
 by the Lakes of Lungern and Sarnen (passed at the 
 left), the scenery for the time softening materially, 
 but the splendid pine timber of all the ride winning 
 the heart of the American, to 
 
 Alpnacfi, village at the southwest end of the 
 Lake of Alpnach, to the southeast and nearly under 
 shadow of Mont Pilatus, where steamer is taken 
 for the length of that lake, to the entrance of Lake 
 Lucerne (" Lake of the Four Cantons." and scene of 
 Tell's exploits) ; thence across Lucerne, northward, 
 with Pilatus in full view at the southwest and the 
 Rhigi across the Lake at the northeast, to 
 
 Lucerne (Luzern), one of the oldest cities of 
 Switzerland, lying at the northwest point of the 
 Lake of the same name. It stands at the junction 
 of the river Reuss with the Lake ; is a Catholic city
 
 IN SWITZERLAND. 201 
 
 and -capital of the Canton of the same name ; has 
 part of the old wall still surrounding it on the land 
 side ; and offers, as curiosities, the three bridges 
 over the Reuss (all odd, and the Muhlenbrucke with 
 the singular ornamentation of thirty-six pictures 
 called the "Dance of Death") the Arsenal, in 
 which some intei'esting antiquities are preserved 
 among other things, flags taken at Lepanto under 
 Don John of Austria and the rare monument, called 
 the " Lion of Lucerne," erected from Thorwaldsen's 
 designs, in memory of the Swiss killed at Paris in 
 defending Louis XVI., in 1792. Lucerne has also 
 the charm of vieing with Geneva in loveliness of 
 location. 
 
 The Rliigi may be ascended from Lucerne, in 
 either of two directions from Kussnacht on the 
 north (reached by carriage from Lucerne), the return 
 made by Weggis, or from Weggis, on the south 
 (reached by boat), the return made by Kussnacht. 
 In either case, sleeping accommodations at the top 
 should be telegraphed for from Lucerne, a day ahead 
 if possible. Supposing the first of the two routes 
 to be taken carriage to 
 
 Kussnacht, alleged to be the scene of Tell's ex- 
 ploit with the apple, and where some memorials of 
 the hero are said to exist. Thence horses or chairs 
 (carried by two men) up the mountain: not foot- 
 climbing, except for very healthy and athletic peo- 
 ple, and never for ladies. About three hours, by 
 horse, after a succession of views embracing nearly 
 all the cities, lakes and mountains of Switzerland, to 
 the
 
 202 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 l) half a mile from the top, where 
 horses are generally kept and lodging may (or may 
 not) be procured. Thence to the 
 
 Rhigi-Sulm (top), from which, if reached in 
 time, one of the most memorable of sunsets is likely 
 to be enjoyed. But the Rhigi is especially ascended 
 to see the 
 
 Sunrise, which demands getting up at call, and 
 some shivering, but presents one of the noblest moun- 
 tain-top sunrise-views on the globe, embracing all 
 Switzerland and seeming to embrace half the rest of 
 the world. 
 
 Down from the Rhigi, the same morning, on foot 
 preferable, by 
 
 Kalibad, charmingly located half-way up, with 
 many fine views of Pilatus, the distant Oberland, 
 over the Lake of the Canton Uri, etc., to 
 
 Weggis, whence steamer back to Lucerae, whence 
 rail is taken to 
 
 Sale (Basle, or Basel), on the Rhine, reached in 
 about four to six hours. It has some forty thousand 
 inhabitants, and a thriving trade ; presents the odd- 
 est bridge in the world one side of stone and the 
 other of wood ; has rope-and-current ferries that no 
 one should miss ; shows an old Cathedral with the 
 ugliest sculptures on the habitable globe, but some 
 other good buildings, and is worth seeing in default 
 of anything better. 
 
 This ends, of necessity, all that can be accom- 
 plished by the short-trip tourist in Switzerland, and 
 it will be found to embrace the best of Swiss scenery. 
 Those who have abundant means and leisure, of
 
 IN SWITZERLAND. 203 
 
 coarse, should see the Lakes of Zurich, Constanz, 
 Neufchatel, etc., the Falls of Schaffhausen, and the 
 Monte Rosa chain of mountains ; but only those who 
 have both at free command, can hope for much more 
 than has been here hurriedly outlined, except in 
 making one or the other of the great passes of the 
 Alps into Italy, briefly to be alluded to in a follow- 
 ing paper. 
 
 18
 
 XV. 
 
 BALE TO STKASBOUKG AND BADEX-BADEN. 
 
 THE most closely pressed of short-trip travellers, 
 having reached so far as Bale, should not return with- 
 out touching Eastern France and Germany, at Stras- 
 bourg and Baden-Baden. For this 
 
 Rail from Bale, through the Lower Rhine prov- 
 inces, with scenery altogether tamed down from that 
 of Switzerland, and only a few glimpses of the moun- 
 tains that are being left behind with the only im- 
 portant stoppage at Colmar some eight hours to 
 
 STRASBOUBG, on the extreme eastern border of 
 France, the most important eastern city of the em- 
 pire called, indeed, the " Paris of Eastern France." 
 It is pleasantly situated ; contains some 80,000 in- 
 habitants ; is heavily fortified and garrisoned, as a 
 guard against German encroachments ; and presents 
 one of the most attractive points of all European 
 travel. The most notable of its many curiosities 
 are : first, 
 
 The Cathedral, or Mtinster, with the tallest spire 
 in the world (said to be 475 feet above the ground), 
 the steeple of such delicate tracery that it seems to be 
 lace-work, and the immense building, the very body 
 of which is higher than the other steeples of the city, 
 a wilderness of fine sculpture, statues, bas-reliefs, 
 rich Gothic taste and interminable labor. It is said
 
 BALE TO STRASBOURG. 205 
 
 to have been commenced in 1277 and finished in 
 1601. Within, the massireness and height of its 
 columns and arches are Avell matched by the splendor 
 of its organ, pulpit and side-chapels ; while its 
 
 Great Astronomical Clock is well known as one 
 of the Avorld's wonders. That ingenious colossal 
 structure winds only once in ninety-nine years; 
 shows not only the apparent time but the astronom- 
 ical, the eclipses and other celestial phenomena ; 
 and at 12 noon, every day, the Cathedral is visited 
 by hundreds to see the mechanical cock which sur- 
 mounts it clap his wings, and hear him crow and 
 to see the Twelve Apostles make their circuit around 
 the figure of the Saviour. Next to the Cathedral, in 
 interest, is the 
 
 Church of St. Thomas, very old, containing the 
 sarcophagus of Bishop Adeloque, died in 836 ; the 
 splendid tomb of Marshal Saxe one of the finest in 
 France ; and the ghastly but instructive embalmed 
 bodies, in glass-covered coffins, of Count Nassau- 
 Salberg and his daughter, of the sixteenth century ; 
 besides many other antiquities and curiosities. Next 
 to this comes the fine 
 
 Public Library, with many antiquities in the art 
 of printing, and a splendid statue of Guttenberg 
 without; but scarcely second to these are the 
 
 Old Houses, some of them among the finest and 
 best-preserved in Europe, and one of them, especially, 
 authenticated as between 800 and 900 years old, and 
 a marvel of stone-work, especially in its matchless 
 spiral stairway. Within this house, too, are the frag- 
 ments of the old clock (cock included) and of por-
 
 '206 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 tions of the Cathedral destroyed by the revolution- 
 ists in 1793, but since restored. One other feature 
 of Strasboui'g deserves note and must command it 
 
 The /Storks, apparently the protected " totem " of 
 the city, visible everywhere, with nests covering 
 nearly one-third of the chimneys in the older por- 
 tions. To this incomplete summary should be added, 
 that Strasbourg is the home and centre of the pates 
 des foies gras (goose-liver pies) manufacture, to be 
 found in such freshness and perfection nowhere else, 
 and that marching troops are always to be seen, 
 and drums and bugles always to be heard, in its 
 streets. 
 
 From Strasbourg, by rail, across the Rhine, a few 
 miles distant, to 
 
 Kehl, where France changes to Germany and 
 baggage is examined. The changes of cars are nu- 
 merous, vexatious and unexplainable, and some three 
 hours are consumed in going only forty miles, at the 
 end of which the dark hills of the Black Forest rise 
 around the traveller, and he is disembarked at 
 
 BADEX-BADEN, chief and most beautiful of the 
 gambling resorts of Europe. It is charmingly loca- 
 ted in a valley at the foot of and partially surrounded 
 by the hills of the Black Forest ; and every appli- 
 ance that art and taste could suggest has been added 
 
 OO 
 
 to make it attractive. Its first attraction, of course, is 
 The Kursaal (Conversation-House), a noble struc- 
 ture, with splendid promenade-grounds in front, and 
 the rooms furnished and decorated with regal luxury 
 where . the gambling-tables are ever filled from 
 early morning to the closing hour at 11 P. M., and
 
 BALE TO STRASBOURG. 207 
 
 where the wealth, ruin, crime and opportunities for 
 melancholy study (and often for something worse) 
 are unbounded. The playing, principally rouge et 
 noir and roulette, is carried on in three principal 
 rooms, all ages, conditions, and nearly as many 
 women as men, being among the gamblers. Thei'e 
 are also private rooms, where, hazard, ecarte, etc., 
 are played by smaller parties. One end of the great 
 building is a restaurant, and the other a ball-room 
 and theatre, with either balls or performances two 
 or three times a week during the " season." In front 
 of the Kursaal is a music pavilion, where some of 
 the finest bands in Germany play, during afternoons 
 in summer, to immense concourses of promenaders 
 from all lands besides supplying music during 
 the evenings. Next in importance to the Kur- 
 saal is 
 
 The TrinJchatte (Drinking-House), an elegant 
 building with magnificent piazza frescoed with the 
 history and legends of Baden, standing to the left 
 and a little in front of the principal attraction, with 
 the Spa water (warm) always on free draught, and 
 warm baths ready for those who desire to test the 
 medicinal properties of the springs. 
 
 The Theatre, standing almost in front of the Con- 
 versation-House, is one of the handsomest in Europe, 
 and opera is given there un exceptionally, two or 
 three evenings a week, alternating the performance 
 at the Kursaal, during the " season." Additional 
 attractions are found in the very handsome walks 
 and promenades with which the town abounds, and 
 in the fine and costly wares kept lavishly in the shops
 
 208 SHORT^TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 that line the streets and stud the eastern side of the 
 promenade-grounds. 
 
 The principal excursions from Baden are to 
 the 
 
 (Jours de J3ade, or race-course, four or five miles 
 away westward famous for its green turf track, the 
 gatherings of notables and heavy betting which take 
 place there every year, in September, while the ride 
 to it supplies charming scenery ; and to the 
 
 Slack Forest, the dai-k hills and sombre woods 
 (mostly firs) of which surround Baden on three sides, 
 with splendid dusky drives through them, and the 
 two castles, 
 
 The Alt Schloss and Nieu Schloss, which crown 
 eminences in the vicinity, and not only afford a very 
 favorable impression of the old knightly robber-holds 
 of Germany, but show subterranean passages be- 
 tween the two of great length, and some of the in- 
 struments of torture and death once said to have 
 been employed by the dreaded Yehmgericht, or " Se- 
 cret Tribunal of Germany." The Nieu Schloss is 
 the residence of the Grand Dukes of Baden; the Alt 
 was that of their ancestors. The ruins of the Alt 
 Schloss are very fine ; the rides through the forest to 
 them are notably handsome and memorable; and 
 charming views are caught from the heights (espe- 
 cially near the Alt Schloss) over the distant Rhine 
 and low country with even finer (including the 
 spire of Strasbourg Cathedral) from the top of the 
 immense pile. 
 
 There are some interesting excursions from Baden- 
 Baden, to the Yburg, New Eberstein etc. (castles),
 
 BALE TO STRASBOURG. 209 
 
 but they are scarcely likely to be taken by the short- 
 trip tourist. 
 
 Of course, for the visits to the Cours, the old 
 castles, etc., already noted, carriages arc required, 
 and they may be had at fair prices, at the hotels, 
 even in the height of the season : everything else at 
 Baden may and should be seen on foot, the distances 
 beino: trifling.
 
 XVI. 
 
 SHORT TRIPS IN GERMANY. 
 
 BY right of natural division, of course, that por- 
 tion of the preceding paper, relating to Baden-Baden, 
 should have been included in this. But so many 
 persons, travelling on " tourist-tickets," merely run 
 over the border to Baden without setting foot in an- 
 other German city, that the division already made 
 will be held excusable. 
 
 From Baden-Baden, those who end their tour 
 eastward at that point return to Strasbourg and take 
 rail direct thence back to Paris, the run being made in 
 twelve to fourteen hours, by Nancy, Bar-le-Duc, 
 Chalons-sur-Marne, Epernay (dinner, if by the morn- 
 ing-train from Strasbourg), Thierry, and Xeuilly. 
 
 But even those who have but limited time and 
 are not prepared for much additional expense, when 
 at Baden should endeavor to strain a point, before 
 returning to Paris and the English ports, so far as 
 to do 
 
 FKOM BADEX-BADEN DOWX THE EHIXE. 
 
 For this the route is taken from Baden by rail 
 (same road as on arrival), connection being made 
 with main line, going north, at Oos sometimes with- 
 out change. First place of importance, passed 
 through within a few miles, is
 
 7JV GERUAXY. 211 
 
 Itastadt, an old town, of which the chief point 
 worth hurried observation is to be found in the very 
 heavy and formidable fortifications, about which 
 France and Germany are generally quarrelling. An 
 hour and a half later, 
 
 Carlsruhe ("Charles's Rest"), capital of the 
 Grand Duchy of Baden, and one of the most taste- 
 fully-laid-out, well-shaded and beautiful little towns 
 in Europe. Glimpses can be caught, from the rail- 
 way, of the Duke's Palace, an imposing and hand- 
 some building, on elevated ground ; and those who 
 have time for lying over one train, will find the 
 Academy worth visiting for the sake of its pictures 
 and frescoes. The next important stoppage beyond 
 Carlsruhe, is 
 
 J^ruchsal, where the rail from Constance and 
 northeastern Switzerland, by Stuttgart, intersects ; 
 and no other point of importance presents itself, un- 
 til reaching 
 
 HEIDELBERG, still in Baden, on the south bank of 
 the Neckar (a confluent of the Rhine, running into it 
 from the east), considered one of the handsomest 
 towns in Germany, besides holding an almost un- 
 equalled reputation for the erudition of its very old 
 University, and having a world of historical recol- 
 lections connected with the Electors Palatine (who 
 used to make their seat there), and the battles and 
 sieges that have raged around it. The principal cu- 
 riosities in the town (where a day should be spent if 
 time allows) are the University ; the Castle, a mas- 
 sive half-ruined structure, said to have been built as 
 an Electoral residence in the fourteenth century, and
 
 212 SHORT-TBIP GUIDE. 
 
 especially noted for its extensive cellars and the cele- 
 brated " Heidelberg Tun " located there; the Church 
 of the Holy Ghost, which has the odd peculiarity of 
 being partitioned in the centre, so that Catholics and 
 Protestants can hold service at the same time ; the 
 Church of St. Peter, where Jerome of Prague, the 
 reformer, nailed his defiance to the Papacy ; the fine 
 views over the valley of the Neckar, from the ter- 
 race of the Castle; the very long and handsome 
 principal street on which nearly the whole city 
 seems to be built, etc. 
 
 From Heidelberg by rail, direct, in two to three 
 hours, and passing through no places of special in- 
 terest, though much fine Rhenish scenery, vineyards, 
 etc., to 
 
 FKANKFOET-OX-THE-MAINE, lying, as its name 
 indicates, on the river Maine, another eastern conflu- 
 ent of the Rhine. Frankfort is one of the oldest and 
 most interesting cities of Germany, alike for its fine 
 old buildings, its rich historical associations, and its 
 having been for so many centuries one of the great 
 moneyed centres of Europe. It had been, since the 
 twelfth century, a free city, and the capital of the 
 Germanic Confederation, until absorbed by Prussia 
 in 1866. The Emperor Charlemagne is said to have 
 had a palace here, in the eighth century, and all the 
 Emperors of Germany have been elected and crowned 
 in the Cathedral. The Rothschild family had their 
 beginning here, and their house is shown ; while the 
 residences of other bankers are many and most mag- 
 nificent. The first object of interest is the Cathedral 
 (or "Dom"), with unfinished tower, dating back to
 
 V GERMANY. 213 
 
 the thirteenth century, with some fine monuments, 
 especially those of the Emperors Gunther and Ru- 
 dolph of Sachsenhausen ; next the Town Hall, with 
 its immense banqueting-tower and picture-gallery of 
 the Emperors, and the market-place opposite, where 
 at the imperial festivities they roasted oxen whole 
 and outdid Jack Cade by making the fountains run 
 with wine ; next the State Museum and Academy of 
 Painting, with many fine works of art ; then the 
 house and statue of Goethe (born here) ; the fine 
 bridge over the Maine to the suburb of Sachsenhau- 
 seu, etc. From Frankfort by rail, a very brief ride, 
 to 
 
 Wiesbaden, capital of the Grand Duchy of Nas- 
 sau, of which the best idea may be given in saying 
 that it is a miniature Baden-Baden ; dividing with 
 Homburg the credit of being next to it in gambling ; 
 less select and more crowded in society ; lacking the 
 Black Forest hills which make one of the great 
 charms of Baden, but supplying the deficiency with 
 a charming little lake which forms the favorite 
 pleasure-resort, with fine gardens, orchards, and a 
 beautiful situation generally. It has a Kursaal, of 
 course, and all the gayeties of its greater rival, but i^ 
 not worth so extended a study. From Wiesbaden 
 the run should be made back by rail, as if returning 
 to Frankfort, to the fine old town of 
 
 Mayence (German "Mainz "), lying on the bank 
 of the Rhine, a commercial city of importance, and 
 chief town of Hesse-Darmstadt. It is heavily ford- 
 led and garrisoned; was one of the chief ecclesi- 
 ^tical cities in the centuries following Charlemagne ;
 
 214 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 and was held during a long siege by the French un- 
 der Napoleon. Its principal buildings of interest 
 are the Cathedral, an immense pile of red sandstone 
 (which would have delighted Hugh Miller), now 
 somewhat damaged by time and war, but with a 
 wonderful collection of Electoral and other monu- 
 ments within. Quite of as much interest will be 
 found the "bridge of boats," nearly 1800 feet in 
 length, across the Rhine ; the site of the house of Gut- 
 tenberg, in venter of printing (born here), etc. 
 
 At Mayence the rail should be abandoned and 
 one of the steamers taken (going two or three times 
 a day, first, second and third class, and- with meals 
 on board) 
 
 DOWN THE RHIXE, as here the beauty and inter- 
 est of that river really begin. In the limited space 
 at command here, of course no attempt at describing 
 the scenery of that world-celebrated river can be 
 made : all that is either possible or needful is merely 
 to name the principal places of interest, and whether 
 on the right or left bank, descending ; a little faculty 
 of observation and the " comparing of notes " inevi- 
 table on a Rhine steamer (always half-freighted with 
 English and Americans), and a good local guide- 
 book, which no one should fail to purchase at May- 
 ence or earlier, will supply enough additional knowl- 
 edge for identification. 
 
 One additional remark is, however, necessary, 
 before proceeding that nearly all the Rhine, from 
 Mayence to Cologne, is hilly and rocky-banked, 
 something like the Hudson in its wilder passes, but 
 dotted with cities, towns and castles, picturesque in
 
 IN GERMANY. 215 
 
 effect", and that vineyards arc almost universal. 
 Perhaps no "better description was ever given within 
 the same space, than that applied to the Rhine by 
 Praed, in the " Bridal of Belmont," and pages of 
 dry phrases would not convey half so much : 
 
 " Where foams and flows the glorious Rhine, 
 
 Many a ruin wan and gray 
 O'erlooks the cornfield and the vine, 
 
 Majestic in its dark decay. 
 Among their dim clouds, long ago, 
 They mocked the battles that raged below : 
 
 ****** Homes of pride 
 That frown on the breast of the peaceful tide." 
 
 The first points of special interest, after leaving 
 Mayence, are found, successively, in 
 
 Eeiberich, on the right, celebrated for the quality 
 of its wines ; then 
 
 JTohannisberg r , castle and town, also on the right, 
 yet more celebrated for the production of the cele- 
 brated "Johannisberger " wine the vineyard once 
 in the possession of Napoleon, and given by him (as 
 he gave away crowns) to General Kellermann, the 
 dragoon. Then 
 
 Rudesheim, also on the right, little less celebrat- 
 ed than Johannisberg, for a corresponding reason. 
 
 Very shortly after passing Rudesheim, the inter- 
 est changes entirely to the left bank, in view of the 
 pleasant little town of 
 
 JSingeri '(not "Binjen," as many call it but 
 "Bing-en"), lying at the mouth of the river Nahe, 
 famous for its wine-trade, but much more for Mrs. 
 
 Norton's touching poem, " Bingen on the Rhine." 
 19
 
 216 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 On the opposite side of the mouth of the Nahe stands 
 the 
 
 Castle of Ehrenfels, a picturesque robber-hold of 
 the middle ages ; and near the river mouth, on a low 
 flat, a small square tower, the 
 
 Mouse Tower, immortalized by the story of Bish- 
 op Hatto, who kept his corn and starved the poor, 
 then burned them in his barn the revenge coming 
 in the shape of all the mice in Germany (Southey 
 blunders into calling them " rats ") attacking the 
 tower and eating up the Bishop with everything 
 else ! 
 
 Bacharach is passed at the left, not long after 
 leaving Bingen ; then 
 
 St. Groar, one of the old monkish holds, and very 
 picturesque ; then at 
 
 Lahnstein, on the left, the debarkation is made 
 for Ems, another and smaller watering-and-gam- 
 bling-place ; while at the right, opposite, is the fine 
 and well-preserved 
 
 Castle of Stotzenfels, belonging to the King of 
 Prussia, and where he entertained Queen Victoria 
 and Prince Albert in 1845, while the interior decora- 
 tions of the Castle are magnificent, and it contains 
 many curiosities in the armory among others, swords 
 of Napoleon, Wellington and Blucher. The next 
 point of special interest is the large town of 
 
 Coblentz, on the left, at the intersection of the 
 Moselle and the Rhine, heavily fortified, and with 
 another bridge of boats ; and opposite it the tremen- 
 dous rocky fortress of 
 
 Ehreribreitstein (the "bright stone of honor ") ;
 
 IN GERMANY. 217 
 
 nearly 400 feet above the level of the river, and be- 
 lieved to be impregnable, so that the tourist (and 
 reader) may be spared the figures of its guns, cost 
 and garrison. A short distance below Coblentz and 
 Ehrenbreitstein, is passed, on the left, the 
 
 White Tower, where the French revolutionary 
 army, under General Hoche, crossed in the face of 
 the Austrians in 1797. Next are passed, on the right, 
 
 Weuwied, town, with a palace belonging to the 
 King of Prussia ; on the left, 
 
 Anclernach, with heavy fortifications and a fine 
 watch-tower near the river; on the right the 
 
 Castle of Hammerstein (fine ruins 800 years 
 old) ; on the left the 
 
 Castle of Itheineck (ruins), with modern residence 
 attached, and Brohl (village) near ; then on the right, 
 with heavy fortifications, 
 
 Linz (town) ; and near it, also on the right, the 
 
 Castle of Ochenfels (ruins, black and sombre). 
 Just below, and among what is considered the very 
 finest portion of the Rhine scenery, stands, on the 
 left, the 
 
 Castle of RolandsecJc, said to have been built by 
 the celebrated paladin, Roland, that he might over- 
 look the place of abode of his promised bride, who 
 had believed him slain at Roncesvalles and taken 
 the veil in the convent of 
 
 Nonnenwerden (St. Ursula " silence "), of which 
 the ruins are to be seen on a little island opposite. 
 Nearly opposite Rolandseck, on the right, is the 
 rocky 
 
 Drachenfels ("castled crag of Drachenfels,"
 
 218 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Byron), crowned -with the ruins of an old castle, and 
 around it the peaks of the bold group of hills called 
 the " Seven Mountains," all 900 to 1,200 feet in height. 
 
 It is only a short time after leaving the Drachen- 
 fels, when at the left is seen 
 
 JBonn, with one of the largest and most excellent 
 Universities in the world ; a Cathedral, or Minster, 
 showing the oddity of five towers, and alleged to 
 have been built by the Empress Helena " and sub- 
 urbs of singular shaded beauty. But all eyes are 
 now necessarily turned ahead, to the termination of 
 the Rhine trip, which is shortly after reached (for 
 the short-trip tourist) at 
 
 COLOGNE, on the left bank of the Rhine, contain- 
 ing some 120,000 inhabitants ; and lying along the 
 river-curve in a crescent bending outward. It is 
 very old (said to have been founded by Agrippina, 
 daughter of the Roman Emperor Germanicus) ; very 
 picturesque in its old houses and river-frontage ; very 
 dirty (as are, however, most German towns) ; and 
 very celebrated as having given name to the " Co- 
 logne water," not one millionth part of which ever 
 saw it. Of course people go to Cologne principally 
 to see 
 
 The Cathedral, one of the most stupendous speci- 
 mens of Gothic architecture in the world, and per- 
 fectly dizzying to the thought in the extent of its 
 size and details. It is said to have been commenced 
 in 1248, to be finished probably in 2048, when the 
 two towers, as yet "no-horned," though even now 
 wonderful in height, are each to reach 500 feet the 
 extreme length of the building. Within, it is quite
 
 IN GERMANY. 219 
 
 as magnificent as without, with the Chapel of the 
 "Three Kings of Cologne" (the three wise men of 
 the East who came to worship the infant Christ) be- 
 hind the high altar, and the wealth of an empire 
 lavished on the case containing their bones, and on 
 similar objects. The whole cathedral is full of relics 
 and objects of devotion, besides some fine paintings ; 
 and no brief time will suffice to study it thoroughly 
 within and without. But perhaps scarcely second 
 even to the Cathedral, in special interest, is the 
 
 Church of St. Ursula, containing exposed the 
 bones of the Eleven Thousand Virgins who accom- 
 panied St. Ursula on a pilgrimage to Rome, and were 
 murdered by the Huns on their return, for refusing 
 to break their vow of chastity. The whole church is 
 full of bones and skulls piled on shelves and heaped 
 miscellaneously ; and the spectacle is edifying more 
 or less, according as one believes or disbelieves the 
 story, or wishes or does not wish to see womankind 
 reduced to " first principles." After St. Ursula, those 
 of the many remaining churches of Cologne, best 
 worth visiting, are, that of St. Peter, containing the 
 font in which the painter Rubens (native of Cologne) 
 was baptized, and his masterpiece of the " Cruci- 
 fixion" supplying the after-piece ; that of St. Mary, 
 alleged to be nearly 1,200 years old, with some inter- 
 esting effigies and pictures, that of St. Pantaleon, etc. 
 
 FEOil COLOGNE WESTWARD TO PARIS OR THE CHANNEL. 
 
 ( Route I. ) 
 
 Return may be made from Cologne direct to 
 Paris, by the Rhenish Railway, to
 
 220 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 
 
 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE, a fine old town of Rhenish 
 Prussia, boasting the residence of Charlemagne and 
 the sepulture of that great monarch and many of 
 his successors. Its first point of interest is the Ca- 
 thedral, which is one of the oldest in Europe, and 
 holds, besides the tomb of Charlemagne, the greatest 
 collection of sacred relics, gathered from every land, 
 to be found in any one spot on the globe. Among 
 the chief of them (about the authenticity of which 
 each may decide for himself), are a piece of the 
 Cross, a locket of the hair of the Virgin Mary, the 
 leathern girdle of Christ, the bones of St. Stephen, a 
 piece of Aaron's rod, the Saviour's swaddling-clothes, 
 the scarf He wore at the Crucifixion, the robe worn 
 by the Virgin at the Nativity, the cloth on which 
 John the Baptist's head was laid, etc. Aix has 
 many historical reminiscences (among others, several 
 Peace-Congresses) ; a splendid bronze statue of Char- 
 lemagne in the market-place ; has warm medicinal 
 springs and a Kwrhaus / and manufactures exten- 
 sively. 
 
 From Aix-la-Chapelle, still by rail, to 
 LIEGE, in Belgium, handsomely situated on the 
 river Meuse, with the most extensive cannon, fire- 
 arms and iron manufactories, on the continent. It 
 has a fine old Cathedral (said to date back to the 
 tenth century), with some good paintings and the 
 best carved pulpit (of oak) in Europe ; a church of 
 St. Jacques, with stained glass of rare perfection ; a 
 Palace of Justice, once the abode of the mighty 
 Bishops of Liege, and famous as the scene of a large 
 part of Scott's novel of " Quentin Durward." A
 
 /y GERMANY. 221 
 
 little- time can be excellently spent in Liege, exam- 
 ining the manufactories especially those of fire- 
 arms. From Liege, on by rail to 
 
 JVamur, also on the Meuse, at its intersection 
 with the Sambre principally notable for its exten- 
 sive manufactures of iron and steel, and its connec- 
 tion with the old wars of Flanders. From Kamur, 
 by rail, to 
 
 Charleroi, heavily fortified, as affording one of 
 the strongest defences of Belgium against France 
 and with coal-fields, iron-foundries, nail-factories, 
 etc., seeming to blend English Birmingham and 
 Wolverhampton. 
 
 Shortly after leaving Charleroi, France is entered 
 (at Jeumont), where baggage is examined. Thence 
 the route is pursued by Cambrai, noted for giving 
 name to " cambric," first manufactured here, and for 
 the treaty of peace between Charles V. and Francis 
 I., some time after the battle of Pavia ; by St. Quen- 
 tin, memorable for its storming by the Spaniards 
 and English, from the French, in the time of the 
 English Queen Mary ; by Noyon, with a fine old 
 cathedral, and noted as the birth-place of Calvin ; 
 and by Compeigne, with the imperial palace and 
 magnificent forest used in the hunting-season by 
 Napoleon III. ; to Paris. 
 
 (Route II.) 
 
 The tourist who has finished with Paris before 
 going to Switzerland and the Rhine, should pursue 
 the route already indicated, from Cologne by Aix-
 
 222 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 la-Chapelle and Liege to Namur, but there branch 
 off by rail, directly northwestward, to 
 
 BRUSSELS, the capital of Belgium, beautifully 
 situated on rising ground beside the river Senne, a 
 southern branch of the Scheldt considered one of 
 the best-shaded cities and handsomest residences in 
 Europe. It has many attractions, in the Palace and 
 Park of the King of Belgium ; the Parliament 
 Houses ; the Hotel de Ville, very old and fine, with 
 an enormous pyramidal tower nearly four hundred 
 feet in height ; the Old Palace, with its great variety 
 of Rubens 1 s and other pictures ; the fine old churches 
 of St. Gudule (Cathedral), La Chapelle, Bon Secours, 
 etc. ; some excellent characteristic fountains, the 
 great carpet and lace manufactories, etc. Several 
 days may be profitably spent in Brussels ; but the 
 short-trip tourist, with a good cab and intelligent 
 driver, can " do " it very fairly iu a single day, set- 
 ting aside a second day for the indispensable carriage 
 or stage ride to the 
 
 Battle-field of Waterloo, about twelve miles from 
 the city, where the destiny of Europe is believed to 
 have been decided in the final defeat of Napoleon 
 by Wellington and Blucher on the memorable 18th 
 June, 1815. Plenty of guides and local guide-books 
 can be found both at Brussels and in the neighbor- 
 hood of the battle-field ; and there is not the least 
 difficulty in purchasing, in either place, any desired 
 quantity of relics of the battle authentic or not, 
 according as the tourist is of a robust faith. [X. B. 
 Those who do not wish to be excessively bored, 
 should " check off" the guide at his first attempt to
 
 iy GERMANY. 223 
 
 relate- the events of the "battle ; though he may be 
 allowed, with all propriety, to conduct the visitor 
 up the great mound in the centre of the field, crowned 
 with the bronze lion (arms of Belgium), and marking 
 the spot where the Prince of Orange fell as well as 
 to show the site of the old Chateau of Hougomont, 
 the Farmhouse of La Haye Saiute, and the Sunken 
 Road from Wavres, points at and around which the 
 battle was really decided.] 
 
 From Brussels, by rail, by Malines (one of the 
 most celebrated of the lace-manufacturing towns), 
 to 
 
 ANTWERP, on the river Scheldt, about half the 
 size of Brussels, and second town of Belgium in im- 
 portance formerly the first. It has some shipping 
 and foreign trade, and many buildings of great cost 
 and beauty, while some of its streets, and especially 
 the Great Place de Mere, may vie with any in Europe 
 for beauty. Its chief attractions are to be found in 
 the immense Cathedral, of magnificent architecture, 
 and one of its two towers among the highest and 
 
 ^7 O 
 
 most delicately-finished in the world ; in the iron 
 canopy, at the foot of the Cathedral tower, the work 
 of Quentin Matsys, the blacksmith-painter ; in Ru- 
 bens's " Descent from the Cross " (his greatest work), 
 found within the Cathedral, with other noted works 
 by the same master ; in the Museum, with one of the 
 finest collections of pictures in Europe especially 
 rich in the works of Rubens, Vandyke, and other 
 Flemish artists ; in the churches of St. Augustine, 
 St. Paul, St. Anthony, etc. ;' and the house where 
 Rubens lived and died.
 
 224 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 From Antwerp rail may be taken to the fine old 
 walled town of 
 
 Ghent, scene of many of the most interesting 
 historical occurrences of Belgium, and especially of 
 the memorable episode of the patriot Philip van 
 Artevelde. Among its leading curiosities will be 
 found the very old Gateway, once belonging to the 
 castle of the English John of Gaunt, Duke of Lan- 
 caster, built more than a thousand years ago ; the 
 Cathedral of St. Bavon, with a striking marble in- 
 terior and Chapter Arms of the Spanish Order of the 
 Golden Fleece, which once had its place of authority 
 here ; the Belfry Tower, near the Cathedral, from 
 which the warning bell rang to announce the (fre- 
 quent) approach of invaders its summit dragon- 
 crowned, and its base a prison ; the Church of St. 
 Michael, containing Vandyke's " Crucifixion " ; its 
 many picturesque bridges ; and the immense number 
 of factories, for making everything, from laces and 
 silks to dyes and whiskeys. 
 
 If the Channel is to be crossed from Ostend, the 
 tourist proceeds by rail from Ghent to 
 
 Bruges, another fine old Flemish town, with even 
 more bridges than Ghent, and almost as great a histor- 
 ical interest. It has a splendid old Cathedral (Xotre 
 Dame) with a tower of wondi-ous height, and within 
 it may be seen the gorgeous gilded tombs of Charles 
 the Bold (Duke of Burgundy) and his daughter 
 3Iary, Empress of Austria, as well as many fine pic- 
 tures. There is also attraction to be found in the 
 Hospital of St. John, with its many relics ; in the 
 Cathedral of Saint Sauveur, Church of Jerusalem,
 
 7.Y GERMANY. 225 
 
 etc. ; but, to Americans especially, one of the most 
 notable features will be found in the Belfry, in the 
 Market Square, very lofty and of splendid Gothic 
 architecture, with a chime of forty-eight bells, some 
 of them fabulously large, and almost constantly ring 
 ing while Longfellow has doubly immortalized it 
 in his fine poem of the "Belfry of Bruges," com- 
 mencing 
 
 " In the market-place of Bruges stands a belfry old and brown, 
 Thrice consumed and thrice rebuilded, still it towers o'er the 
 town." 
 
 From Bruges only an hour by rail to 
 
 Ostend, a fine old Belgian port on the Channel, 
 with no feature, however, demanding stay. From 
 Ostend steamers leave every evening for Dover, in 
 England, the time occupied being from five to eight 
 hours, according to weather. 
 
 if, from Ghent, the traveller prefers less Charmel- 
 pa'ssage with more riding by railway, that end can 
 be secured by running southward by rail, past Cour- 
 trai and Mouscron, to 
 
 Lille, another very old Flemish town, with 
 nearly the same features of industry, manufacture 
 and antiquity, observed from. Aix to Bruges ; thence 
 by the Northern of France Railway to 
 
 Calais, with steamer passage to Dover in one- 
 and-a-half to two hours. 
 
 HINT FOE LONGER TOUR LAKE CONSTANCE BY INN- 
 SBRUCK, MUNICH, DRESDEN, BERLIN, ETC. 
 
 In the preceding has been given all that the 
 short-trip tourist can hope to see of Germany during
 
 226 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 any one season ; but a hint may be of advantage to 
 those who have leisure for something longer, or to 
 the same persons when chancing to be a second time 
 nearly within the same districts. 
 
 One of the most splendid routes in the world, and 
 certainly one of the most varied in scenery and the 
 character of the inhabitants, may be pursued as fol- 
 lows, supposing the tourist to be a second time in 
 Switzerland, or supposing him to prefer this to all 
 or a great part of the German succession already 
 given : 
 
 The Swiss Lake Constance (easternmost of the 
 whole group, and not before mentioned in the short 
 trips in Switzerland) may be reached by rail from 
 either Berne or Bale ; then the lake is descended by 
 boat to 
 
 Bregenz, at the extreme eastern end. From Bre- 
 genz, by eilwagen (mail-diligence), across the lesser 
 mountains separating Switzerland and the Tyrol 
 (Austrian), by Feldkirch, Stuben, St. Anton, Lan- 
 deck, Imst, Silz, etc., through grand wild scenery 
 and with excellent opportunity for studying the pic- 
 turesque Tyrolese costumes, to 
 
 INNSPRUCK, capital of the^Tyrol, splendidly situ- 
 ated on the river Inn, and almost completely hemmed 
 in by mountains of great height. It has a wonderful 
 variety of monuments in the Hof kirche, among the 
 rest that of Maximilian I., one of the finest in Eu- 
 rope, that of the patriot Hofer, etc. The Imperial 
 Palace, Museum, etc., and the old Castle of Ambras, 
 are all worth visiting, as also the scenes in the 
 neighborhood where the Tyrolese won such bloody
 
 AV GERMANY. 227 
 
 victories during the Napoleonic wars. From Inn- 
 spruck, Tby rail, to 
 
 MUNICH, capital of the Kingdom of Bavaria, ly- 
 ing on the river Aar, and challenging all the other 
 capitals of Europe for beauty, especially since the 
 thousand costly improvements made by the late 
 King Louis I. (friend of Lola Montez, who literally 
 reigned here for a short period). It is almost equally 
 matchless in buildings, public grounds, and disputes 
 with Paris, Rome and Madrid the palm as a reposi- 
 tory of art. The leading attractions are found in the 
 Residenz, or Royal Palace, a part very old and a 
 second part new and yet more elegant with courts, 
 fountains, statuary and antiquities, magnificent halls, 
 etc.; the Pincothek, or Picture-Gallery, with some 
 thirteen hundred of the best paintings of all schools 
 (open every day except Saturday) ; the Glypothek, 
 or Sculpture-Gallery (open Mondays, Wednesdays 
 and Saturdays), only second to the picture collection ; 
 the Schwanthaler Museum; the Royal Brewery, 
 where the celebrated Bavarian beer has its fountain- 
 head; the Public Library, second in size in the world 
 (nearly a million volumes) ; and many splendid 
 churches and monuments, only to be intelligently 
 seen with a guide or valet de place. From Munich, 
 by rail, to 
 
 Augsburg, a pleasant old town on the river Lech, 
 with many historical recollections, and the Bishop's 
 Palace still standing in which the noted Augsburg 
 Confession of Faith was framed, and where Luther 
 held his interview with the Cardinal Gaeta, before 
 proceeding to the reformation extremities ; the old 
 20
 
 228 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Fugger House, commemorating the Austrian Roth- 
 schild ; the Fountain of Augustus ; the wilderness 
 of watchmakers' shops, etc. From Augsburg by- 
 rail to 
 
 NUREMBERG, on the river Pegnitz once one of 
 the richest cities in Europe, now principally famous for 
 its monopoly of the making of toys, and to Ameri- 
 cans as the scene of another of Longfellow's finest 
 poems, " Nuremberg," in which 
 
 "In the valley of the Pegnitz, where across broad meadow-lands, 
 Rise the blue Franconian Mountains, Nuremberg, the ancient, 
 stands." 
 
 It is famous in the world of art as the birth-place 
 of Albert Diirer, the painter and engraver, and for 
 the many fine sculptures in the Churches qf St. Law- 
 rence, St. Sebald (which contains the tomb of Diirer) ; 
 and additional attractions are found in the rock- 
 throned Castle, dating back to the eleventh century, 
 the Churchyard of St. John, with many interesting 
 monuments, etc. ^rom Nuremberg, by rail, by 
 Bamberg, Lichtenfels and Chemnitz, to 
 
 DBESDEX, the capital of Saxony, on the river 
 Elbe, with an old and a new town (something like 
 Edinburgh) on the two sides of the river, and a 
 splendid bridge of 1,400 feet in length connecting. 
 Dresden is so complete in situation, shade, walks and 
 laying out, as to hold the name of the " Northern 
 Florence " ; and it is considered by many the equal 
 of any other capital in Europe, while in works of art, 
 and especially in antique jewelry and fine sculptures, 
 it is certainly unequalled. Its leading attraction is
 
 iy GERMANY. 229 
 
 the celebrated "Dresden Gallery," with world-wide 
 reputation, and full of the best works of the old 
 Italian and German masters. The Zwinger (build- 
 ings and promenade-grounds) contains a fine armory, 
 with many military and historical curiosities and a 
 rich Museum of Natural History ; and the Japanese 
 Palace, with its collection, the Frauenkirclie, etc., 
 are well worth visiting. 
 
 From Dresden, by rail, to 
 
 BERLIN, the capital of Prussia, one of the largest, 
 handsomest, and now one of the most powerful, of 
 all the capitals of Europe. It contains nearly three 
 quarters of a million inhabitants ; is some twelve miles 
 in circumference ; holds in garrison from 20,000 to 
 50,000 soldiers; supplies one street, " Unter den 
 Linden," lined with palaces and almost matchless in 
 fragrant shade ; has many handsome monuments, 
 among which the colossal equestrian one of Frederick 
 the Great stands without superior in Europe ; has a 
 Museum especially rich in works of art (ranking per- 
 haps second in Europe) ; and supplies a world of 
 other attractions, as well as temptations to residence, 
 in its Royal Palace, Opera -House, Arsenal, and 
 splendid walks and drives, when " done " as it should 
 be, under intelligent guidance. 
 
 7 ~ ~ 
 
 From Berlin, by rail, direct to 
 
 HAMBURG, on the Elbe, one of the leading free- 
 cities of Germany, with a world of industry and 
 manufactures and a heavy shipping-trade ; while the 
 city has a perfect circumvallation of gardens, and is 
 tasteful and handsome. Its most attractive buildings 
 are the Exchange and the Churches of St. Peter and
 
 230 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 St. Michael the latter with a tower of 460 feet and 
 one of the finest organs in Germany. 
 
 From Hamburg, steamer may be taken to an 
 English port, or to America if the tour is ended ; or 
 rail may be taken southward and westward, from 
 Harburg, on the opposite side of the Elbe, across 
 Hanover and Belgium, intersecting the railway from 
 Cologne at Aix-la-Chapelle, and the route to the 
 Channel pursued by Brussels and Ghent to Ostend 
 or Calais, as before noted. 
 
 9 Or, this may be shortened a little by leaving out 
 Hamburg, and taking rail direct from Berlin by Aix- 
 la-Chapelle, to Brussels, etc.
 
 XVII. 
 
 ACEOSS THE ALPS TO ITALY. 
 
 THEEE are three principal routes by which the 
 passage of the Alps, southward to Italy, is effected. 
 The first, or most westerly, is from St. Michel, France, 
 to Susa, in Italy, and is known as the " Alt. Cenis " 
 route. The second, next westerly, takes its depart- 
 ure from Martigny, near the eastern end of the Lake 
 of Geneva (Switzerland), ends at Aosta, and is known 
 as the passage of the " Great St. Bernard." The 
 third, and most easterly, may be said to commence 
 at Andermatt, after that point is readied from Lu- 
 cerne by way of the Lake of the Canton Uri, Flu- 
 ellen and Altorf, is known as the " St. Gotthard," 
 crossing the range of that name to Bellinzona, near 
 the head of Lake Maggiore. There is yet a fourth, 
 called the " Simplon," reached by going up the Val- 
 ley of the Rhone from Martigny (first route), cross- 
 ing by the mighty work of engineering performed 
 by Napoleon, the " Simplon Road," passing near 
 Domo d'Ossola, and also ending on Lake Maggiore, 
 though near the centre of the Lake and much farther 
 southwestward than the end of the St. Gotthard. 
 
 These passes are all picturesque, beyond compari- 
 son with any other European scenery ; all more or 
 less fatiguing, and often exciting to the timid or 
 nervous ; but none of them has any absolute danger,
 
 232 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 except when pursued too early in the summer or too 
 late in the autumn, and ladies make them habitually. 
 
 THE MT. CENTS ROUTE. 
 
 By this route the amount of necessary fatigue is 
 much less than by either of the others, while the 
 travel is certainly much less picturesque. Up to 
 1867 the conveyance was from St. Michel, in the 
 Maurienne Valley (reached by rail from either Paris, 
 Lyons or Geneva, by Amberieux: [junction see 
 "Paris to Geneva"], Aix and Cbambery) by dili-' 
 gence over that fine mountain-range, with magnifi- 
 cent views of Mont Blanc and the whole range of 
 the White Alps, caught northward at many points, in 
 tine weather. By this route the road, after leaving 
 St. Michel, sweeps a considerable distance north ward 
 and eastward, before entering the mountains by 
 St. Andre, Modane, Villeraudin, Termignon and 
 Lans le Bourg ; then sheering southward, the actual 
 ascent is commenced at or near Tavernette, the 
 crossing being thence made diagonally southeast- 
 ward, on the eastern side of Mt. Cenis. to Molaret, 
 where the sharpest line of descent ends, and thence 
 to Susa. 
 
 In 1867, however, a new and marked triumph in 
 engineering was inaugurated, in the completion of a 
 temporary railway of peculiar character over the 
 mountain, a third or middle rail, with extra hori- 
 zontal or gripping wheels, enabling trains to be 
 drawn up the whole northern steep with a slow, 
 steady, and apparently safe motion, and to be low-
 
 ACROSS THE ALPS TO ITALY. 233 
 
 ered on the southern side at corresponding rate and 
 safety. Henceforth, of course, the mission of the 
 diligences ended, as this link completes the great 
 railway line from France and all Central Europe to 
 Italy and all Southern. Even this is but temporary, 
 however, for the great 3it. Cenis Tunnel is slowly 
 But steadily progressing through the bowels of the 
 mountain, and by 1870 or 1871 it is expected that 
 trains will be able to pass through it, on the ordi- 
 nary level, the result being that special lovers of 
 their ease will all adopt the Mt. Cenis route and ride 
 into Italy as elsewhere on the " dead level," while 
 others who have more regard for the picturesque than 
 the practical, will be driven away to some one of 
 the other routes. This link, however, will also per- 
 fect a mightier chain than that of tourist-travel, 
 by making complete the railway communication 
 from Calais on the British Channel to Brindisi on 
 the Adriatic (near the extreme end of the Italian 
 "boot-heel " peninsula), whence the steamers leave 
 for the shortest of all routes from Western Europe 
 to India. 
 
 The disembarkation, by railway as formerly by 
 diligence, will be made at 
 
 Susa (said to be the site of the old Roman Segu- 
 sium), with fine mountain scenery, and two artificial 
 objects commanding attention : the Roman Arch, 
 erected B. c. 8, and once forming the entrance to the 
 town from the Roman road to Gaul over Mont Ge- 
 nevre ; and the Cathedral of St. Justus, bearing date 
 of the eleventh century, with some antique curiosi- 
 ties in the inner chapels. From Susa by rail to Tu-
 
 234 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 rin, etc., as will be seen by the following paper, 
 " Short Trips in Italy." 
 
 THE GREAT ST. BERNARD PASS AXD ROUTE. 
 
 As already indicated, the commencement of the 
 Gi'eat St. Bernard route is reached at Martigny, by 
 steamer or rail from Geneva to Villeneuve and the 
 termination of railway travel at Martigny the route, 
 thus far, being precisely the same taken on the way 
 to Chamounix. 
 
 The time consumed on this route, between Mar- 
 tigny (Switzerland), and Aosta (Italy), should be 
 from 18 to 22 hours. It maybe made on foot by the 
 very robust, in a somewhat longer time, and by 
 spending one night at the Hospice. The better 
 plan, however, is to take carriage from Martigny to 
 the Cantine de Proz, only Y|- miles from the Hospice, 
 with led mules attached, to be ridden thence to the 
 Hospice, and either the same or other mules to St. 
 Remy, five or six miles beyond. From St. Remy to 
 Aosta, carriage again. Or, for those who prefer 
 more saddle-exercise and less carriage-conn nement, 
 carriage may merely be taken from Martigny to 
 Liddes, about half-way to the Hospice then mules 
 to the Hospice and on to St. Remy, then carriages 
 down to'Aosta, as before. 
 
 The principal points of interest on this route (by 
 many thought to be very interesting) are the pas- 
 sage up from Martigny through the Valley of the 
 Dranse, to Bovernier ; then to Sembranchier, with 
 the ruins of a fine old castle, said to have been once 
 of great size and power, accommodating the Emperor
 
 ACROSS THE ALPS TO ITALY. 235 
 
 Sigismund, who stopped there, with 800 nobles to 
 wait on him ; then Orsieres, with very fine view, 
 especially of the snow peak of Mt. Yelan ; then 
 Liddes (station), with entrance into the wild Forest 
 of St. Pierre ; then St. Pierre Mont Joux, with some 
 fine waterfalls and terrible gorges just beyond, 
 rendered memorable by the fact that from here to 
 the summit was found the most disheartening diffi- 
 culty by Napoleon and the French troops, dragging 
 up their dismounted guns, with the carriages packed 
 on mules, in that wonderful "Passage of the Alps," 
 from Geneva by Martigny, in May, 1 800. 
 
 Then Cantine de Proz (station positive end of 
 the carriage-road and commencement of the bridle- 
 path), with still finer views of Mt. Velan, only a few 
 miles southeastward. Thence the bridle-path trav- 
 erses the pastures of the Plan de Proz, ascends the 
 very wild Defihe de Marengo ; not long afterwards 
 passes two stone huts of interest, the one being a 
 place of refuge for both people and cattle, and the 
 other the old Morgue for preserving the bodies of 
 those perished in the snow (see Cooper's " Heads- 
 man of Berne," Chaps. XXIIL and XXIY.) ; then the 
 Dranse is crossed by the Bridge of Xudri, the Val- 
 lee des Morts (Valley of the Dead) is crossed, bring- 
 ing the tourist to 
 
 THE HOSPICE OF ST. BERNARD, a monastery consist- 
 ing of two large massive stone buildings, partitioned 
 into many rooms for the care and resuscitation of 
 travellersone of the highest places of dwelling in 
 Europe, as it is one of the purest of benevolences and 
 most celebrated of landmarks. The buildings have
 
 236 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 stood for some three hundred years, being erected 
 solely for the succor of those crossing the Alps ; and 
 the monks have their first duty (with the wonderful 
 and somewhat fierce dogs kept here) in rescuing those 
 who would otherwise perish in storms, and in attend- 
 ing on those who arrive for shelter. Most of the 
 supplies for the Hospice are brought up from Aosta, 
 but a few from Martigny ; the fund for its support is 
 derived jointly from the French and Italian Govern- 
 ments (some 50,000 to 60,000 francs per year), be- 
 sides what is contributed by travellers, who are, how- 
 ever, neither charged anything nor begged from. 
 Some 18,000 to 20,000 travellers are accommodated; 
 but it is said that many, even of the wealthy, after 
 eating and being served, leave no remembrance be- 
 hind them, and that the institution is lately a little 
 crippled in consequence. Several hours may be 
 profitably devoted to inspecting the . plain but per- 
 fect arrangements for the comfort of visitors, and the 
 large collection of pictures, gifts from travellers, 
 relics and other curiosities, as well as the monument 
 to Dessaix, erected by Xapoleon in the Chapel. Be- 
 sides the benevolent-looking monks themselves, and 
 their mighty dogs, the Morgue (or dead-house, where 
 the perished are sometimes kept undecayed for years) 
 is well worth visiting ; and no one should quit the 
 Hospice without remembering that Xapoleon and his 
 omcers found shelter here, when they had at last 
 surmounted the pass, and that the whole French 
 army was feasted (at the First Consul's expense) on 
 the plateau in front of the buildings. 
 
 A little lake of some 500 feet long is passed soon
 
 ACROSS THE ALPS TO ITALY. 237 
 
 after leaving the Hospice, and at the end of it a pil- 
 lar marking the division between France and Italy. 
 Beyond it lies the green pasture of the Hospice cat- 
 tle, called La Vacherie. St. Rcmy (station), the first 
 Italian village, is reached in 1 to 1-=V hours from the 
 Hospice, whether by mule or on foot, and has one 
 peculiarity of entirely filling the gorge where it 
 stands, as if it had been literally poured into a trough ! 
 From St. Remy the carriage-road recommences, while 
 the valley is cultivated and all the character of the 
 near scenery softened. The small villages passed are 
 St. Oyen ; Etroubles ; Gignod (in a strong defile, 
 and with the ruins of a defensive tower). Then the 
 Val de Pellina opens, with a path over the glacier- 
 pass of the Col de Colon. Then Signayc, at which 
 the views of the splendid vineyards of Aosta begin ; 
 while in fine weather, looking back northeastward 
 and northwestward, a view almost unparalleled in the 
 whole world may be caught Monte Rosa at the right 
 or eastward, Mont Blanc at the left or westward ! 
 Below, at the traveller's feet, lies the termination 
 of the Alpine passage, in the handsome Italian town 
 of 
 
 Aosta (English "Augusta"), built and named 
 after himself by Augustus, before the birth of Christ 
 magnificent heavy fortifications and walls remain- 
 ing, and with a Triumphal Arch, Double Gate, Town 
 Hall, Cathedral (with frescoes) Church of St. Ours, 
 etc., worth what passing notice can be withdrawn 
 from the natural aspects surrounding it. From Aosta 
 by vetturino (diligence) to Ivrea ; thence by rail 
 ot TUKIN, etc. (See " Short Trips in Italy.")
 
 238 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 PASS A2STD EOUTK OF THE ST. GOTTHARD. 
 
 By many who have traversed it and the others, 
 the pass of the St. Gotthard is considered the most 
 picturesque of all the routes from Switzerland to 
 Italy ; and with those who do not care especially to 
 guard against fatigue, it may probably be considered 
 the most popular of the three. 
 
 As already indicated in the opening of this paper, 
 this third route is commenced, ordinarily, from Lu- 
 cerne, taking boat on the Lake to Fluellen at the ex- 
 treme south end (called the " Lake of the Canton 
 Uri"), then by carriage, two or three miles, to 
 
 Altorf, capital of the Canton Uri, a pleasant little 
 town of about 3,000 inhabitants, with particular inter- 
 est as the scene where Gesler is believed to have com- 
 manded and Tell shot the apple from the head of his 
 son (though that distinction is disputed by Kussnacht, 
 at the other or upper end of Lucerne, near the Rhigi). 
 The most interesting objects it contains, are a splendid 
 modern colossal Statue of Tell, with an inscription 
 from Schiller; the Fountain, where the target-tree 
 is alleged to have stood ; the old Tower, with Tell 
 frescoes ; the very old Capucin Monastery, with the 
 Bann wald or Sacred Grove (of Schiller) behind it, etc. 
 
 At Altdorf diligence is taken for the entire ride 
 over the St. Gotthard to Bellinzona, occupying twen- 
 ty-two-and-a-half to twenty-five hours ; and as the 
 ride is to be a long one and through some of the 
 most magnificent scenery in the world, care should 
 be taken to avoid the inside middle seats, from which 
 little or nothing can be seen.
 
 ACROSS THE ALPS TO ITALY. 230 
 
 Spine five or six hours, southward, through the 
 magnificently wild Valley of the Reuss, by Botz- 
 lingen, Klus, Silinen, Ainstag, latschi, Wasen ; the 
 " Devil's Bridge," with wildly-magnificent pass and 
 fine fall), the timer Loch Tunnel and the beautiful 
 rock-hemmed Valley of Uri, brings 
 
 Andermatt, the principal town of the Valley and 
 section, with a very old church (the charnel-house 
 adjoining corniced with skulls), some fine views, and 
 a splendid collection of minerals on sale, for those 
 who can afford to buy them. Andermatt is also the 
 travelling-centre of the section, from which tourists 
 draw their supplies and make their forays in every 
 direction. 
 
 From Andermatt to Hospenthal, with very fine 
 view on the way of the Glacier of St. Anna, very 
 high in air and singularly beautiful, and a remarkable 
 old Lombard tower standing on a hill near the vil- 
 lage. At Hospenthal the sharp ascent of the St. 
 Gotthard (not single mountain, but range) may be 
 said to commence, through a very wild valley on the 
 left bank of the Reuss ; and a somewhat weary ride, 
 though with continual splendid views, is encoun- 
 tered before reaching the 
 
 Pass of St. Gotthard (top), surrounded by several 
 small lakes, and with an alberge or post-station very 
 near, as also a lately-erected Hospice, with beds for 
 poor travellers, and fine dogs kept for sale. At and 
 near the summit snow lies on both sides of the road, 
 generally nearly all summer ; and snow-storms and 
 avalanches are not entire rarities. 
 
 Shortly after commencing the descent from the 
 21
 
 240 SHORT- TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Hospice, the road crosses the Ticino (German " Tes- 
 sin"); and very near, an immense mass of rock and 
 an inscription commemorate the victory of the Rus- 
 sian Suwarrow over the French, in 1799. Very soon 
 the road enters the Yal Trernola (Valley of Terror), 
 a dismal valley into which many avalanches fall, 
 and which is provided with several heavy timber 
 " houses of refuge " against such chances. This is 
 followed by the Valley of Airolo, and soon by the 
 village of Airolo ; after which the Canaria Valley 
 opens with its wondrous geological specimens, and 
 the Defile of Stalvedro, which was held by 600 
 French against 3,000 Russians for half a day, in 
 1799. The route now follows, with slight descent, 
 along the Ticino ; by Piotto, Dazio Grande, Faido, 
 etc. ; through the beautiful Valley of Leventina, the 
 scenery alternately rugged and soft, with chestnuts, 
 vines and mulberries (trees) beginning to appear, to 
 Giornico, with a fine old tower and very ancient 
 church, and the waterfall of Cremusina just beyond ; 
 by Bodio and Pollegio, where the Brenno joins the 
 Ticino, and the hillsides become literally covered 
 with vineyards ; to Osogna, at the foot of a singular 
 peak ; then by several small and unimportant vil- 
 lages, to 
 
 Itellinzona, capital of the Canton of Tessin, with 
 lofty walls and turrets and a most picturesque ap- 
 pearance on approach, and with three remarkable 
 Castles ("II Grande," "II Mezzo," and " II Corbe") 
 worthy of examination, and a fine bridge over the 
 Ticino. 
 
 From Bellinzona to Como (Lake of Como), by
 
 ACROSS THE ALPS TO ITALY. 241 
 
 diligence ; thence by rail to MILAN, etc. (See " Short 
 Trips iu Italy.") 
 
 BY THE SIMPLON ROAD AXD PASS. 
 
 The comparatively small number crossing be- 
 tween Switzerland and Italy, who wish to see Na- 
 poleon's great work and take the Simplon pass for 
 that object, proceed to Martigny, as if on the way 
 to Chamounix or over the Great St. Bernard ; then 
 proceed eastward up the Valley of the Rhone, by 
 railway, to 
 
 Sion, a town of some 5,000 inhabitants, capital 
 of the Canton Valais, on the Sionne ; crowned by 
 two castles and with some fine ruins in the neigh- 
 borhood ; also with a handsome Cathedral and church 
 of St. Theodule, and environs of peculiar beauty. 
 At Sion diligence is taken for 
 
 Brieg, at the immediate foot of the mountains 
 (celebrated by Dickens and Wilkie Collins in " No 
 Thoroughfare"'). At Brieg (or if preferred, at Sion) 
 diligence is taken for the whole route to Arona, on 
 Lake Maggiore, Italy. At Brieg, also, the ascent 
 commences, the valley of the Rhone being abandoned 
 and the course taken at first almost due southward. 
 Nearly the whole road, from Bi'ieg to Domo d'Osso- 
 la, is one continued reminder of the engineering de- 
 
 7 O O 
 
 termination of Napoleon, who commenced it in 
 1800-1, and finished it six years later at a cost of 
 15,000,000 francs, so that he could take cannon over 
 the Alps with a little less trouble than by the Great 
 St. Bernard. 
 
 The road is very picturesque, and the views of
 
 242 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 peaks and glaciers are often excellent, though not to 
 be compared with those by the St. Gotthard. Like 
 the St. Gotthard, however, it has many avalanches, 
 and the " houses of refuge " from them are frequent. 
 The point of greatest interest is to be found at the 
 
 Simplon Culm and Hospice (the latter something 
 like that of the Gt. St. Bernard, with entertainment), 
 where " a broad open valley resembling a dried-up 
 lake," bounded by snow-capped heights and glaciers, 
 as it has been well described, forms the highest point 
 of the Pass. Many curiosities of scenery exist in the 
 neighborhood, for those who have time and spirit to 
 examine them. But the diligence pushes on, thence, 
 downward, through the beautiful Val d'Ossola, to 
 Domo d'Ossola, a handsome little Italian town ; by 
 Vogogna and Ornavasso, to Fariolo, surrounded by 
 luxuriant olive-groves, vineyards and all the evidences 
 of great fruitfulness. It is near Fariolo, too, that 
 are caught the first glimpses of the beautiful Lake 
 Maggiore, with Isola ITadre and some others of its 
 islands. Thence the shore of the Lake is skirted, by 
 a road of solid masonry, by Baveno, to 
 
 Arona, of no particular charm to the tourist, 
 except for its location on the Lake. From Arena 
 by railway to Milan, Genoa, Turin, etc. (See " Short 
 Trips in Italy.")
 
 XVIII. 
 
 SHORT TEIPS IX ITALY. 
 
 IT is of course very difficult, in a single and brief 
 paper devoted to the interests of the short-trip 
 tourist in Italy, to be even as explicit as in some of 
 the other countries, as to points of peculiar interest 
 nearly every step, in that land of natural beauty, 
 and artistic and historic interest, being more or less 
 a pilgrimage. All that can be attempted, in this 
 brief space, will be such an arrangement of short 
 tours as seems most politic, with mention of a few 
 of the objects of first interest in the leading cities 
 visited. Local guide-books and valet-service are 
 quite as useful in Italy as elsewhere, and no difficulty 
 will be found in procuring either. One hint, before 
 proceeding, as to time. The summer months are of 
 course the best period for crossing the Alps, but July 
 and August are neither comfortable nor healthy 
 months for travel in Italy, unhealthy miasma being 
 very common, and mosquitoes and other troublesome 
 insects almost universal. 
 
 RESUME OF POINTS OF AREIVAL IX ITALY. 
 
 It will be remembered that by the Mt. Cenis 
 route (No. 1) the tourist reaches Italy at Susa, near 
 Turin ; that by the St. Bernard (Xo. 2) he reaches it 
 at Aosta, above Ivrea, and still not far from Turin ;
 
 244 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 that by the St. Gotthard (No. 3) he is disembarked at 
 Bellinzona, at the eastern end of Lake Maegiore, 
 
 7 OO 7 
 
 with nearest communication to Milan ; and that by 
 the Simplon (No. 4) be finds himself at Arona, on 
 the western side of the same lake, yet nearer to Mi- 
 lan. All these routes, however, end so nearly to- 
 gether, in comparison to the extent of Italy and dis- 
 tance bet\veen the leading cities, that with a little 
 care they may be all made to converge so as to allow 
 the main features of the hurried but comprehensive 
 route about to be traced, to be preserved. In order 
 to do this, one of two objective points needs to be 
 kept in view as the first visited, and indeed the two 
 must be made to work together Turin and Milan. 
 
 TO AND AT TURIN, MILAN AND THE LAKES. 
 
 The Mt. Cenis passenger has but an hour's ride 
 by rail, from Susa, and the St. Bernard one only a 
 little longer by diligence to Ivrea, and then on by 
 rail, to 
 
 TURIN, in Piedmont, long the capital of Sardinia, 
 and until the removal to Florence, that of the lately- 
 erected Kingdom of Italy. It has so great an anti- 
 quity as to have been destroyed by the Emperor 
 Constantine (about A. D. 330) for assisting Maxen- 
 tius, when it had already an age of several centuries. 
 It has since filled a notable place in history, being 
 the seat of the Dukes of Savoy before and since they 
 became Kings of Sardinia, and standing two sieges 
 by the French, in 1649 and 1706. 
 
 Turin lies on the river Po, has a population of 
 nearly a quarter million, and (for Italy) much grow-
 
 IX ITALY. 245 
 
 ing prosperity. Its principal public buildings of in- 
 terest are the Royal Palace, modern and of no great 
 splendor, but with some royal apartments, statuary 
 and paintings worthy of hasty notice ; the Royal 
 Armory, with an extensive collection of European 
 and Oriental weapons and armor; the Pinacotheca, 
 or Royal Gallery, with many paintings of interest 
 and some of great merit, and a Museum of Antiqui- 
 ties in the same building ; the Palaces Carignano 
 (formerly the Chamber of Deputies of Sardinia), 
 Alh'eri, Sonnaz and San Giorgio ; the Duomo, or Ca- 
 thedral of St. John the Baptist, with no special: archi- 
 tectural merit, but handsome interior decorations, in 
 chapels, altars, monuments (to members of the House 
 of Savoy) and pictures ; the Churches of La Conso- 
 lato, Corpus Domini, San Filippo, etc., all with a cer- 
 tain interest in monuments and pictures within ; and 
 the Basilica and Church of La Superga, in the sub- 
 urbs, some four miles from the city centre, with in- 
 teresting monuments of the Savoy family, and a mag- 
 nificent view of the Alps and the surrounding coun- 
 try, from the roof. Turin has also at least a dozen 
 public scpuares ("Piazzas"), nearly all with statues 
 or monuments ; a Cemetery with the resting-places 
 of some distinguished persons ; and three or four 
 bridges over the Po and its little tributary the Dora. 
 This is among the least interesting of the great 
 cities of Italy, and may be even hurriedly visited 
 without serious loss, but should by no means be alto- 
 gether omitted, even by those who do not necessa- 
 rily pass through it. 
 
 From Turin the tourist should take rail to
 
 246 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 a town with a Cathedral or Duomo of 
 some architectural and artistic interest, but princi- 
 pally noted as the spot near which (two miles south- 
 ward) King Charles Albert of Sardinia was fatally 
 defeated by the Austrian, Radetsky, in 1849. From 
 Xovara by rail due northward to 
 
 Arona (or Allesandria), for a view of 
 
 LAKE MAGGIOKE ("Mah-zjo-ree"), the second- 
 largest and by some thought the most beautiful of 
 the lakes of Italy some forty-five miles in length by 
 an average of three in width ; the north banks 
 mountainous and wooded, the south sloping and well 
 cultivated ; the water having the peculiarity of being 
 green at the north end of the lake- and deep blue at 
 the south ; and the group of four known as the Bor- 
 romean Islands (Isola Bella, Isola Superiore, Isola 
 Madre and Isola San Giovanni), presenting what is 
 considered the acme of shaded, villa-studded and 
 graceful beauty, in that line of scenery. 
 
 Steamers run northward on the lake, several times 
 a day, to 
 
 Magadino, near the northern extremity ; and the 
 most beautiful of extended views, with a landing at 
 Isola Bella (considered the loveliest of the group, 
 and holding the magnificent palace and grounds of 
 Count Borromeo), may be enjoyed by taking one of 
 the boats for the run to Arona and return. From 
 Arona return by rail to Novara, thence direct by 
 rail for the very brief ride to 
 
 MILAN, in Lombardy, a walled town of ten 
 gates, of great antiquity, having been at one time 
 only second to Rome, in the Roman empire, in iin-
 
 iy ITALY. 247 
 
 portance and population. It was afterwards the 
 capital of a Lombard republic, then of a duchy in the 
 hands of the powerful and ambitious Visconti and 
 Sforzas. It was held by Spain after the battle of 
 Pavia (defeat of Francis I. of France by the Emper- 
 or Charles V.) ; ceded by Spain to Austria in 1714; 
 taken by the French republicans in 1796, and again 
 by Napoleon after Marengo, in 1800. From 1805 to 
 1814 (fall of Napoleon) it was the capital of the 
 Bonapartan Kingdom of Italy ; falling again under 
 Austrian control till the cession of the Lombardo- 
 Venetian provinces to the new Kingdom of Italy. 
 
 Milan has many beauties, but one unapproachably 
 far beyond the rest stands 
 
 The Duomo (Cathedral), commenced in 1387, and 
 scarcely yet finished ; built of white marble, of im- 
 mense size ; with a central tower, spire, and a pei 1 - 
 fect " forest of pinnacles " which give it an indescri- 
 bably light and airy effect, in spite of its gigantic 
 bulk. It has some thousands of statues in its out- 
 ward ornamentation, and is considered the finest 
 specimen of the Gothic in Italy and one of the 
 grandest structures in the world second to St. 
 Peter's, if not indeed equal to it. The view from its 
 roof, which can be ascended by 160 steps, is wonder- 
 fully fine as well as extensive ; though those most 
 familiar with the clear Italian sky advise that it 
 should always be taken at sunrise or near sunset. 
 Within, the Duomo is only less magnificent than 
 without, the Gothic columns and arches having im- 
 mense height and rare purity, and great wealth hav- 
 ing been lavished through century after century upon
 
 248 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 its ornamentation. It has a magnificent high altar ; 
 much fine sculpture ; a colored mosaic pavement 
 eliciting universal admiration ; many gorgeous side- 
 chapels, with tombs, monuments, pictures and relics, 
 demanding many hours for even the most cursory 
 examination, and impossible to be even enumerated 
 otherwise than in the easily-attainable local guide- 
 books; some magnificent stained-glass windows ; and 
 in fine all the splendid features of one of the meet 
 stupendous churches and rarest artificial sights in the 
 world. 
 
 Great Churches (other than the Duomo) also 
 abound in Milan. Chief among these are San Am- 
 brogio, singular as well as singularly old, having 
 been built in the ninth century, with a very rare 
 altar-front of gold-and-silver, some antique relics, 
 paintings, etc. ; San Carlo, with one of the largest 
 domes in Europe ; San Eustorgio, with a very beau- 
 tiful bell-tower, some interesting works of art, monu- 
 ments and relics ; San Fedele, elaborately decorated ; 
 San Lorenzo, .with the Colonne di San Lorenzo near 
 (said to have been once part of a Temple of Hercu- 
 les) ; Santa Maria la Madonna, considered next after 
 the Duomo in imposing effect, without and within ; 
 Santa Maria della Grazie ; Santa Maria della Pas- 
 sione ; San Maurizio Maggiore ; San Nazaro ; San 
 Pietro, etc. 
 
 Palaces also abound in Milan, some of them well 
 worth a visit the Royal Palace, modern, accessible 
 to visitors, and with some fine paintings ; the Arch- 
 bishop's Palace, with the same features ; the Palazzo 
 della Citta (City Hall now an Exchange) ; Loggia
 
 iy ITALY. 249 
 
 degl'Ossi; Palazzo Borromeo ; Pal. Litta (with some 
 fine pictures) ; Pal. Marino (now the residence of the 
 city authorities), etc. 
 
 Besides these, if time allows, may well be visited 
 the Brera Museum (pictures and sculpture) and Li- 
 brary ; the Pinacoteca, with many rare specimens of 
 the old masters; the Biblioteca Ambrosiana, with 
 pictures, library and many relics; the Museum of 
 Natural History, etc. 
 
 La Scala, the great opera-house and theatre, one 
 of the largest in Europe and celebrated in the history 
 of song, should be visited if any performances are 
 given there during the visit ; and Milan has half-a- 
 dozen other leading theatres and places of amusement. 
 
 Besides these, the principal objects of interest 
 are to be found in the handsome Public Gardens ; the 
 immense Arena, of modern erection but on the plan 
 of the ancient Amphitheatres, said to be capable of 
 accommodating 30,000 spectators, where races, bal- 
 loon-ascents and other diversions are frequent ; the 
 fine triumphal Arco della Pace, etc. 
 
 From Milan by rail to 
 
 Como, with some architectural charms and a 
 lovely situation, at the Lake-side, for a view of the 
 beautiful 
 
 LAKE OF COMO, third of the Italian lakes in size, 
 but by many thought the first in beauty, surround- 
 ed by bold hills and its shores dotted with luxurious 
 villas and rich with olive-groves and vineyards, 
 while it is the very paradise of pleasure-seekers in 
 rowing and sailing. Lake Como has been best com- 
 memorated by Rogers in his poem of" Italy," when he
 
 250 SHORT-TBIP GUILE. 
 
 " Turned prow and followed, landing soon 
 
 Where steps of purest matble met the wave ; 
 Where, through the trellises and corridors, 
 Soft music came as from Armida's palace " 
 
 though the description given by Bulwer, in the 
 " Lady of Lyons," in the passage commencing : " In 
 a deep vale shut out by Alpine hills from the rude 
 world," etc., is much more familiar. At all events, 
 to see the Lake of Como and sail or row upon it, is 
 one of the first necessities of travel in Italy. 
 
 From Como return to Milan by rail, for the route 
 eastward and southward. 
 
 [This visit first to Turin and afterwards to Milan, 
 it will be remembered, has been arranged for those 
 crossing to Italy by the Mt. Cenis or St. Bernard 
 routes ; for those who arrive by the St. Gotthard or 
 the Simplon, a different succession will be advisable, 
 as follows : 
 
 For the St. Gotthard passenger, disembarked at 
 Bellinzona, the best route will be by diligence to 
 
 Magadino, at the head of Lake Maggiore ; thence 
 by steamboat (three times a day in summer) down the 
 Lake to Arona ; thence by rail to Xovara, whence 
 the detour must be made westward by rail to Turin, 
 if that city is to be visited, with return to Xovara 
 and on to Milan. Or, on to Milan at once from Xo- 
 vara, leaving out Turin, if time and expense are im- 
 perative. From Milan by rail to Como, and return 
 to Milan, as in the case of passengers by the other 
 routes. 
 
 For the tourist by the Simplon road, precisely 
 the same course as that last named, except the run
 
 iy ITALY. 251 
 
 from -Bellinzona to Arena, he having disembarked 
 from the route over the Alps at the latter place.] 
 
 The passengers by all the four crossings will thus 
 have accomplished the most desirable objects in the 
 northwest, and be ready for the second stage: 
 
 FROM MILAN BY LAKE GAEDA, TO AND AT VEXICE. 
 
 From Milan by rail, by Cassano, Treviglio, Ber- 
 gamo (station, on the last verge of the Alps, with a 
 notable church of Santa Maria Mago-iore and some 
 
 oo 
 
 pleasant excursions in the neighborhood) ; Grumello, 
 Seriate, Palazzuola, 
 
 JBrescia (second city in Lombardy, the ancient 
 Brixia, with a Cathedral and some public buildings 
 and palaces of note), Ponte San Marco, Lonato, Ser- 
 mione (with the battle-field of Solferino very near it 
 and easily reached by carriage), to 
 
 Peschiera, on the river Mincio, at its exit from 
 Lake Garda, one of the great fortified towns of what 
 used to be the celebrated '-'Austrian Quadrilateral," 
 and the southern port of the steamers on the Lake. 
 Excursions may easily be made from it, by carriage, 
 to the First Napoleon's great battle-field of Rivoli, 
 and to 
 
 LAKE GAEDA, the largest of the Italian lakes, 
 considered less beautiful than either Maggiore or 
 Como, sometimes rough and dangerous for boats, but 
 a perfect highway of steamers. The northern end 
 of it is narrow and shut in by the Alps, but the 
 southern shores are fertile, and the soft climate is 
 considered especially favorable for pulmonary inva- 
 lids. 
 
 22
 
 252 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 From Peschiera, by rail, on by Castelnuovo and 
 Somme Campagna, to 
 
 VEBONA, on the river Adige, second of the 
 Quadrilateral cities, and heavily fortified, like Pe- 
 schiera, and with many antiquities and other curi- 
 osities, but most interesting to English readers as 
 the site of Shakspeare's " Romeo and Juliet," and 
 " Two Gentlemen of Verona," as well as of many 
 other plays and romances. It is known to be very 
 old, and has had a most varied history among 
 other events, Marius having fought his great battle 
 with the Cimbri here, and Theodoric the Goth de- 
 feated Odoacer. It was at one time the capital of 
 the Kingdom of Italy, again the seat of a republic, 
 and then governed by petty dukes or princes. Dur- 
 ing the last days of the Austrian supremacy, it was 
 the centre of the military power of that nation in 
 Italy. 
 
 It has very many objects demanding attention, 
 but first among them all,. of course, will come 
 
 Juliefs Tomb, in the Garden of the Orfanotrofio 
 not of much artistic merit, but notable as being 
 possibly the real resting-place of the lady so immor- 
 talized, first by Da Porta, in the novel, and after- 
 wards and so unapproachably by Shakspeare. Next 
 comes 
 
 The Amphitheatre, another of the old Roman re- 
 mains, and said to have held more than 20,000 spec- 
 tators, originally, though much fewer when in mod- 
 ern times used as a place for holiday shows. There 
 are also several palaces, particularly that of Del 
 Consiglio, in front of which are statues of celebrated
 
 IN ITALY. 253 
 
 natives of Verona Pliny the Younger, Cornelius 
 Nepos, Macer, Catullus, and others ; that of Delle 
 Urbe, with the Exchange near it. etc. Of 
 
 Churches, the leading one is the Cathedral of 
 Santa Maria Matricolare, said to have been orig- 
 inally built in the time of Charlemagne, the archi- 
 tecture pleasing, and the statues and monuments 
 interesting ; and there are also that of Santa Maria 
 1'Antica, with tombs of the Scaligers ; that of Santa 
 Anastasia, very beautiful, without and within ; that 
 of San Zenone, very old (1138), with curious archi- 
 tecture and many odd interior ornamentations, his- 
 torical and mythological bas relievos, etc. ; those of 
 San Fermo Maggiore, Santa Maria, etc. There is 
 also a Pinacoteca, or Picture-Gallery, with many fine 
 paintings of the Veronese school ; the Campo Santo 
 (Cemetery near the Vittoria Gate) has some good 
 monuments ; and the Roman Gates, Dei Borsari, 
 Dei Leoni, etc., should not be passed without notice. 
 Taken all in all, Verona will be found one of the 
 most interesting cities in Italy, and, if possible, some 
 days should be spent at and around it. 
 
 A brief side-excursion may be made by rail from 
 Verona southward to 
 
 Mantua, on the Mincio (in point of fact, in one 
 of its "elbows"), and surrounded by a group of 
 small lakes. It is said to be the oldest city in Italy 
 older than Rome, and has a Duomo and some other 
 handsome churches (St. Andrea the handsomest), and 
 an Imperial Palace of five hundred rooms, now de- 
 serted but still showing wonderful frescoes, floor- 
 mosaics and other features of past elegance. It is
 
 254 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 another of the cities of the Austrian Quadrilateral, 
 and heavily fortified, like the others already named, 
 and has additional celebrity in Shakspeare's locating 
 there part of the " Two Gentlemen of Verona," one 
 act of " Romeo and Juliet," and the whole of the 
 "Taming of the Shrew," of which the heroine, Kath- 
 arine, is still said to live in the spirit of the Mantuaa 
 women. [Return to Verona by rail.] 
 
 From Verona on by rail to 
 
 Vicenza, at the foot of Monti Berici, and with 
 many fine palaces, a Cathedral, Churches, a Museum, 
 etc. Thence by rail to 
 
 Padua (by carriage, the short distance from the 
 railway-station to the town), chiefly remarkable for 
 its celebrated University (one of the oldest, largest 
 and best in Europe), its Cathedral, Palaces, Church- 
 es, etc., and the fact that here, too, Shakspeare and 
 others have located plays and romantic legends. 
 
 From Padua by rail direct to one of the chiefest 
 of alt the Italian pilgrimages the " Bride of the 
 Sea," 
 
 VENICE, on the Adriatic, once the mistress of the 
 commerce and half the power of Europe; one of the 
 grandest of figures in history ; and one of the odd- 
 est in geography, from the fact that its streets art- 
 canals, its conveyances are gondolas (boats), and 
 that there is not a horse within its bounds. Of 
 course its " cabs " are also the gondolas, and the only 
 means of extended locomotion is by them, there not 
 being even much opportunity for walking ! 
 
 Venice is literally crammed with objects of inter- 
 est, principally historical but many artistic ; and only
 
 IN ITALY. 255 
 
 the briefest of resumes can be made of the more in- 
 teresting. First in importance comes the 
 
 Piazza de San Marco (Place of St. Marc), an ob- 
 long square in the centre of the city, with colonnades 
 all around it. At the east end stands the great 
 
 Church of St. Marc, a magnificent edifice of Sara- 
 cenic character, commenced in 977 and finished in 
 1111, with the celebrated bronze horses of Constan- 
 tinople over the grand entrance, the pavement of 
 tesselated marble (pictorial) and the whole interior 
 crowded with objects of beauty and interest, with 
 the tomb of the . Doge Andrea Dandolo (" blind old 
 Daudolo ") one of the principal. Near it stands the 
 
 Clock Tower, with the Lion of St. Marc and a 
 statue of the Virgin ; and on the opposite side of 
 the square the great 
 
 Libreria (Library) ; and close beside that the 
 
 Campanile (Bell-tower) dating back to 902 and 
 offering a wonderful view from the summit. Be- 
 tween the Libreria and the landing-place stand the 
 
 Two Columns, of granite, so often seen in pic- 
 tures, the one surmounted by the Winged Lion of 
 St. Marc and the other by a statue of St. Theo- 
 dorus. Almost beside the church of St. Marc stands 
 the 
 
 Doges' Palace, one of the most perfect Moorish 
 buildings in Europe, after the Alhambra at Grenada 
 (open from 9 to 4, daily, except Sundays), its halls 
 a wilderness of splendor in themselves, with mag- 
 nificent staircases, portraits of the Doges, statuary, 
 pictures (many of them historical) by some of the 
 ablest pencils of the Venetian school the whole de-
 
 256 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 raanding days in examination, with local hand-books 
 or intelligent guides, and supplying one of the finest 
 feasts of all European travel. 
 
 Only separated from the Palace by an arm of the 
 Canal, are the 
 
 Carceri (Prisons), capable of holding 400 prison- 
 ers, and graphically described, with many other ob- 
 jects of great interest at Venice, by Cooper in his 
 novel of " The Bravo." Connecting them with the 
 Palace is the covered 
 
 Bridge of Sighs, so celebrated in history, and 
 made doubly famous by Byron's lines in " Childe 
 Harold": 
 
 " I stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs, 
 A palace and a prison on each hand," etc. 
 
 The Rialto (bridge), so celebrated through Shak- 
 speare's " Merchant of Venice," lies at some distance 
 back of the Piazza of St. Marc, crossing the Grand 
 Canal between the islands of San Marco and Riva 
 Alto, and has streets and shops on it, as London 
 Bridge used to have. 
 
 The Palaces and houses of note, at Venice, are 
 legion ; but first among them in interest, with many, 
 is the 
 
 Palazzo Mbro, where Cristoforo Moro, the Othello 
 of Shakspeare, is said to have resided. Not many 
 of them, or-of the numberless churches, can be vis- 
 ited by the short-trip tourist, who should not fail, 
 however, to visit the wonderful 
 
 Pinacoteca (picture-gallery open from 12 to 3) 
 with 600 fine paintings, most of them of the Vene-
 
 iy ITALY. 257 
 
 tian 'schools, distributed through twenty rooms. A 
 visit should also be paid to 
 
 The Arsenal (open daily, 10 to 4), in which may 
 be seen the standard of the Turkish Admiral, taken 
 by Don John of Austria at Lepanto ; a model of the 
 Bucentoro or Doge's galley, in which he wedded the 
 Adriatic ; many magnificent suits of armor, etc. 
 
 It should be noted, before passing, that there are 
 some thirty-five churches in Venice, besides San 
 Marc of interest to those whose time will allow 
 visiting them. 
 
 The Gondolas will naturally be tried by the tour- 
 ist, in the course of his visits ; and a very good idea 
 of the appearance of the Lagoon and the openings 
 into the Adriatic may be found by taking ferry-boat 
 or gondola to 
 
 Murano or Tor cello , large islands in the Lagoon. 
 
 VENICE TO FLORENCE AND ROME, BY FERRARA, BO- 
 LOGNA, PISA AND LEGHORN. 
 
 From Venice by rail, by Rovigo (where one of 
 the First Napoleon's important early battles was 
 fought) to 
 
 Ferrara, a very old Roman town, famous for the 
 sword-blades that used to bear the name of the great 
 maker, " Andrew of Ferrara," with a Cathedral and 
 Castle, both of some pretension ; thence over a flat 
 and highly-cultivated country, with no features of 
 the picturesque, to 
 
 Bologna, famous for its University and its sau- 
 sages, as also for having been the nurse of a school 
 of painting producing Guido, Domenichino, the Ca-
 
 258 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 raccis, etc. It is handsomely situated, and literally 
 crowded with palaces, worthy of attention from any 
 one with abundant leisure, especially for the sake of 
 the fine paintings abounding everywhere ; but the 
 short-trip tourist will necessarily push on to 
 
 Pistoja, where the rail intersects that from Leg- 
 horn, thence to 
 
 FLORENCE, on the river Arno, and in the midst of 
 the beautiful valley to which the river gives name 
 the Val d'Arno. It is divided by the Arno, some- 
 thing like London and Paris, and the communication 
 is made by four handsome bridges within the city 
 limits and two in the suburbs. There are walls en- 
 tirely surrounding it ancient, but rebuilt, with eight 
 gates and two fortresses (Da Basso, north, and Di 
 Belvedere, south), breaking the line. One of the 
 finest promenades on the globe, the quay called 
 
 The Lung 1 Arno, extends along the north bank 
 of the river, the bouses on the south side literally 
 overhanging the water; and the whole city is so em- 
 bowered in trees and so enchanting in every detail 
 of the quietly picturesque, that the tourist will have 
 little difficulty in agreeing with the dictum which 
 assigns it the place of the handsomest city in Eu- 
 rope. 
 
 Since 1866, as is well known, Florence has been 
 the capital of the Kingdom of Italy (removed from 
 Turin) ; previous to the late revolutions it held the 
 place of capital of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. 
 
 Remarking a few of the most notable curiosities 
 of the favored city, the first in order will come 
 the
 
 IN ITALY. 259 
 
 Pitti Palace, the residence of the King- of Italy 
 commenced in the fifteenth century, and with many 
 beauties of architecture added to great extent, "but 
 especially famous for the wonderful collection of 
 works of art in the great Picture-Gallery, more 
 than 500 in number, and, as alleged by experts, not 
 one daub among them, while many of the very finest 
 works of Titian, Raphael, Salvata Rosa, Rubens, Al- 
 bert Diirer, Guercino, Andrea del Sarto, Leonardo 
 da Vinci, Vandyke, Perugino, Carlo Dolci, etc., liter- 
 ally dazzle and confuse the unaccustomed beholder, 
 and statuary from the most celebrated chisels, an- 
 cient and modern, serves to fill up the measure of 
 wonder. (Open daily from 9 to 3, except on Sundays 
 from 10 to 3 and on Mondays 12 to 3.) 
 
 Next to the collection at the Pitti Palace comes 
 that of the 
 
 Galleria Uffizi ("official," formerly "Royal" 
 Gallery), above the Italian Senate Chamber, con- 
 taining another magnificent collection of paintings, 
 sculpture, bronzes, etc. (Open at the same hours as 
 the Pitti, except that on Tuesdays, here, instead of 
 Mondays, there, the admissions are from 12 to 3 
 complete catalogues at the door.) This building was 
 erected by Duke Cosmo I. (De Medicis), and has 
 many charms of architecture. In the " Tribune " of 
 this palace are collected the rarest of the rare in dif- 
 ferent walks of art among others, the original " Ve- 
 nus de' Medicis," Raphael's "Fornarina"; Titian's 
 " Recumbent Venuses " ; Volterra's " Massacre of 
 the Innocents " ; Perugino's " Holy Family " ; Cor- 
 reggio's " Adoration of the Virgin " ; Michael Ange^
 
 260 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 lo's "Virgin and St. Joseph" ; Vandyke's "Charles 
 V.", etc. 
 
 There are some twenty or thirty other Palaces, 
 Museums and Galleries, but the short-trip tourist will 
 scarcely find time for more than the two mentioned ; 
 turning then to the Churches, and first to the gigantic 
 
 Santa Croce ("Holy Cross"), in handsome Goth- 
 ic-Italian, with a had steeple. The principal charm, 
 however, lies within, in the splendid columns and 
 roof; the tomb of Michael Angelo (buried here) ; 
 monuments to Dante and Alfieri, respectively by 
 Bicci and Canova ; frescoed walls and gorgeous side- 
 chapels; and so much of fine painting and sculpture 
 that the church-character of the edifice is well-nigh 
 forgotten in that of the picture-gallery. In some re- 
 spects Santa Croce must yield to 
 
 The Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore), 
 commenced in the fifteenth century and not nearly 
 completed. It has (as alleged) the largest dome in 
 the world, and a rare peculiarity in the coating of 
 the whole exterior with a mosaic of various-colored 
 marbles ; and within there is much of interest, in 
 architecture and works of art the most notable fea 
 ture in the former being the Baptistery, with gran- 
 ite columns and mosaic floor, and in the latter a mar- 
 ble group of the " Deposition of Christ," left unfinish- 
 ed by Michael Angelo at his death. Adjoining the 
 Duomo, 
 
 The Campanile, or bell-tower, is of four stories, 
 in delicate Gothic-Italian, nearly 300 feet in height, 
 and considered the finest structure of its class in the 
 world.
 
 IN ITALY. 261 
 
 The other most notable churches in Florence are 
 San Ambrogio, Santa Annunziata, SS. Apostoli, La 
 Badia, II Carmine, Santa Felicita, San Lorenzo, San 
 Marco, Santa Maria Novella, San Michele, Santa 
 Spirito, Santa Trinita, etc. 
 
 The public-grounds and suburbs of Florence are 
 very delightful, and while the former should be visited 
 and enjoyed, especially the Piazzas Dell' Annunziata, 
 Santa Croce, Del Gran' Duca, etc. the latter should 
 receive attention, if possible, in excursions to 
 
 Fiesote (by carriage or on foot), to catch the fine 
 view over the city, see the old Etruscan ruins and 
 the very old Cathedral there ; and to 
 
 Vallombrosa (of the "thick leaves"), occupying 
 a day by going to Pontassieve by rail, and thence to 
 the Shady Yale of the Hills, and the Convent, by 
 carriage to Pelago and light carriage or on foot for 
 the remaining distance. The views caught in this 
 latter excursion will be found wonderfully fine ; and 
 the eating of a fresh fish-dinner with the Monks is a 
 pleasure to be remembered. 
 
 From Florence by rail, by Prato, Pistoja and 
 Pescia, to 
 
 Zwcca, principally notable for its Baths, which 
 lie about fifteen miles distant and need about one 
 day to make the excursion (by carriage) and return ; 
 thence by rail to 
 
 Pisa, of which the principal curiosities are the 
 Duomo, or Cathedral ; the celebrated Leaning Tow- 
 er, or Campanile ; and the Campo Santo, or Holy 
 Field, a covered colonnaded space of considerable ex- 
 tent, the ground formed of earth brought from Mount
 
 262 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Calvary by fifty-three Pisan. vessels, after the taking 
 of Palestine from the Christians by Saladin and the 
 whole filled with the monuments of those buried 
 there, through all the ages until it was full, from an 
 Emperor to a mere successful surgeon. Of the Lean- 
 ing Tower it may be said that it would be no attrac- 
 tion whatever but for the fact of its leaning, and that 
 consequently the half-crazy builder has achieved what 
 he attempted a sensation. 
 
 From Pisa, by rail, direct to 
 
 Leghorn (Italian "Li vorno"), an old seaport on 
 the Gulf of Genoa, with very little other attraction 
 than the fact that the ships and flags of all nations 
 may generally be seen in the antiquated old port 
 and roads'. 
 
 From Leghorn, either by rail to La Annunzia- 
 tella, and thence by diligence or by steamer down 
 the Gulf of Genoa, with views of the Italian coast, 
 island of Elba (Xapoleon's prison), and possibly Cor- 
 sica (the place of his birth), to 
 
 Civita Vecchia (port of Rome), another seaport 
 of much smaller size and no consequence at all ex- 
 cept in connection with the historical arrivals and 
 departures for and from the Holy City, which it has 
 witnessed. From Civita Vecchia by rail, by Santa 
 Severa, Ponte Galera and La Magliana, to 
 
 EOME IK A HURRY. 
 
 ROME, on the little river Tiber, something less 
 than twenty miles from its mouth; with the Seven 
 Hills underlying it, the Papal residence within it, a 
 population of about 200,000, and so vast and varied
 
 IN ITALY. 263 
 
 a history, from the time when Romulus, its founder, 
 was (or was not) suckled by a wolf, and that time, 
 not long alter, when its male population, very wife- 
 hungry, carried off the Sabine women to fill that 
 office that the brain reels in the very attempt to 
 recount rather what it has not seen than what it has ! 
 Once the Pagan capital of the world, then the Chris- 
 tian the besieged and taken, the triumphant, the 
 abhorred, the idolized, the knelt-to by Kings and the 
 defied by men with no power the city which has 
 alternately enlightened and enslaved mankind, in 
 letters, art and religion it is scarcely wonderful 
 that pilgrims from all climes flock to it to-day, as 
 they have nocked for nearly two thousand years, and 
 that it is reckoned the end and goal of European 
 travel, as Jerusalem is considered that of journeys 
 in the East. 
 
 It has already been said that scarcely a foot of 
 Italian soil is other than a pilgrimage ; but the re- 
 mark applies with tenfold force to Rome, where the 
 traveller is surrounded by so many relics of anti- 
 quity and glories of art that each one almost .takes 
 away from the importance of the other. In no place 
 in Europe, meanwhile, is intelligent guidance (wheth- 
 er of friends or valet) more necessary to the hurried 
 traveller, than at and around the Eternal City ; but 
 local guide-books, in English as well as Italian, are 
 numerous and easily procured, and another advan- 
 tage is to be found in the fact that of late years the 
 English and Americans have partially taken pos- 
 session of Rome, as they have almost entirely taken 
 
 possession of Paris. Within the scope of the pres- 
 23
 
 264 SHOKT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 ent volume, it is neither possible nor desirable to do 
 more than mention a few of the more preeminent 
 objects of interest, leaving all details to the local 
 authorities. 
 
 First among these curiosities, of course, comes 
 St. Peter's, the largest church in the world, built 
 on the site where once stood a temple of Jupiter 
 (whence the jest of Rev. Sidney Smith, of the building 
 and a celebrated statue within, that " there had only 
 been a change in spelling ' Jupiter ' having merely 
 given way to 'Jew-Peter'"). The first structure on 
 the spot is said to have been an oratory built within 
 the first century on the burial-place of St. Peter, and 
 the first church-erection one by Constantino the 
 Great of course after his miraculous conversion. 
 The present building was commenced under Pope 
 Julius II., in the sixteenth century ; but the wonder- 
 ful dome is ascribed at a much later period to Mi- 
 chael Angelo ; the immense colonnades which sweep 
 round on either side from the piazza (enclosing a 
 space of nearly eight hundred feet) were designed by 
 Bernini ; and the front is credited to Carlo Maderno, 
 who " improved " upon the plans of Michael Angelo 
 after a not-very-rare system of altering at whatever 
 cost. 
 
 Some faint idea may be formed of its immense 
 size by a few figures, from which it appears that the 
 fa9ade (or front) is 379 feet long and 148^- high 
 that the full length of the interior is 613 feet (a little 
 more than three blocks of a New York street) ; the 
 length of the transepts (cross) 446; the height of 
 the naves, 152-J; the interior diameter of the great
 
 IN ITALY. 265 
 
 dome which crowns it, 139; and the exterior, 
 the height from the pavement to the base of the 
 lantern, 405 ; and to the top of the cross, 468. The 
 curious calculation was made, some years ago, that 
 a dozen churches of the size of the Xew York Trin- 
 ity could be set within it, the fronts and steeples 
 grouped around in a close circle, and there would be 
 abundant room, while the top of the cluster of spires 
 would not reach within an hundred feet of the inside 
 of the dome ! 
 
 The sensation created by the great church, from 
 without, is really indescribable, as it towers over the 
 city on. approach, at an incalculable distance ; but it 
 is doubtful whether the impression, standing within, 
 under the mighty dome and in the midst of its splen- 
 dors in ornamentation, wealth of bronze, colored 
 marbles, altar-decorations and monuments, is not 
 even more overwhelming than in viewing it without. 
 
 O O 
 
 Those who ascend the dome (as all may do, entering 
 before 11 A. M., by obtaining an order through the 
 Minister or Consul of their particular nation, but all 
 do not do !) say that the view from the top is mag- 
 nificent beyond comparison, Rome, the Tiber, the 
 Appian Way, the Campagna, the distant sea, all 
 seeming at the very feet, and humanity in the street 
 looking like so many little crawling insects ! 
 
 Of course the crowning charm of St. Peter's is 
 found in the religious services and the rare music 
 which forms so large a part of them. The best of 
 these, however, are only attainable at a few periods 
 in the year, and most of them in the winter and 
 early spring (favorite time for being at Rome). The
 
 266 SHORT-TRIP GUILE. 
 
 most noted of these are the Grand Masses on Christ- 
 mas and New- Year Day, and the ceremonies which 
 follow throughout the month and extend into Feb- 
 ruary. Yet more impressive than these are the 
 round of exercises of Holy Week, commencing on 
 Palm Sunday, and with a separate musical and scenic 
 splendor for Ash Wednesday and Holy Thursday, 
 culminating on Good Friday and Easter Sunday. 
 The only summer festival is on June 28th and 29th, 
 when the procession of Corpus Domini and grand 
 masses take place. These are the only occasions on 
 which the full splendors of the body of the Church 
 or of the celebrated Sistine Chapel (properly Sixtine) 
 can be witnessed, and then only by ladies in black, 
 with black veils, and gentlemen in full evening dress. 
 Vespers are sung every evening, from 3 to 4-J, in one 
 of the side-chapels, and this must content those who 
 miss the great festivals. 
 
 Next after St. Peter's (of churches) comes 
 The Lateran, where the popes are always crowned, 
 alleged to have been begun by Constantine in the 
 fourth century, and formerly ranking even before St. 
 Peter's. Its colonnaded front is magnificent, and 
 the interior is a mass of chapels, splendor, monu- 
 ments and relics among the latter of which may be 
 mentioned a cedar table on which the Last Supper is 
 alleged to have been eaten, while there is a staircase 
 shown, without, claimed to have been that of Pilate's 
 house, up which Christ was led to be judged ! The 
 principal religious ceremonies at the Lateran occur 
 on the Saturday before Easter, on Ascension Day, 
 and on the festival of St. John the Baptist.
 
 jy ITALY. 267 
 
 The number of other churches in and about 
 Rome is literally legion. They cannot all be visited, 
 except by those who tarry long ; and ignoring them, in 
 the present connection, it will be necessary to turn to 
 
 The Vatican, Capitol of Rome and palace of the 
 Popes, lying to the right of St. Peter's and entered 
 by the right colonnade of that edifice. The number 
 of chambers in its three stories and adjoining build- 
 ings are variously estimated at 5,000 to 13,000; and 
 the cluster certainly covers a space of some 1,200 
 feet in length by 1 ,000 in breadth. Within the Vat- 
 ican is found the 
 
 Sistine Chapel, where a part of the exercises of 
 Holy Week take place, rich in every detail of dec- 
 oration, and especially in the great frescoes of Mi- 
 chael Angelo and others, the " Last Judgment " of 
 that master, and one of the world's wonders, being 
 the most notable feature. But it is to the 
 
 Galleries of the Vatican that the tourist's visit is 
 principally paid, after all, for in these almost endless 
 rooms are gathered the grandest works of art of a 
 world. Raphael's greatest works are here, in fresco 
 and in oil, headed by his " Transfiguration " so 
 many that for even their names the local guide-book 
 and catalogue must be referred to. Then, many of 
 the masterpieces of Giulio Romano, Perugino., Mu- 
 rillo ("Marriage of Saint Catharine," among others), 
 Domenichino ("Communion of St. Jerome," etc.), 
 Titian ("Madonna and Child," etc.), Guido, Paul 
 Veronese, Correggio, and in fact all the giants of 
 ancient art, making the collection unparalleled in 
 extent, interest and value. Then follow ancient and
 
 268 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 modern sculpture in almost equal profusion, with the 
 celebrated group of the " Laocoon " (sung by Byron), 
 the "Apollo Belvidere" (ditto), the "Cupid" of 
 Praxiteles, the ""Amazon," the "Ariadne," etc., to 
 lead the sense of admiration. 
 
 But long before traversing and inspecting all 
 these, the tourist will have turned to the special and 
 mighty antiquities of Rome, to the 
 
 Walls, a part of them so very old, so many times 
 destroyed and rebuilt, and with their odd old fortifi- 
 cations ; to the 
 
 Bridges, of which something more than half-a- 
 dozen cross the Tiber, nearly all ancient tracing 
 out particularly the remains of the Sublicius, where 
 
 " Horatius kept the bridge, 
 
 In the brave days of old ! " 
 to the 
 
 Seven Hills, now more than half uninhabited, 
 though he will find no difficulty, history assisting, in 
 tracing out the Aventine, the Palatine, the Cselian, 
 the Esquiline, the Viminal, theQuirinal and the Capi- 
 toline, the two latter being really the only ones that 
 can be said to be dwelt upon. He will have visited 
 
 The Forum, and seen the wonderful grouping of 
 antiquities all around it, the very names of which, in 
 one cluster, would fill pages here, as they have done 
 in history. He will have climbed to 
 
 The Capitol, remembered the victors and the 
 vanquished who went up there, wished that they 
 would let him ascend the Tower (as they will not) 
 for the best view over Rome, then stood beside the 
 "Dying Gladiator" in the hall of that name, and
 
 AY ITALY. 269 
 
 wondered whether that marvellous statue or Byron's 
 description, is best ; then wound away from the Capi- 
 tol to the 
 
 Tarpeian RocJc, from which they threw the con- 
 demned, and doubted whether the fall would alwa) T s 
 be fatal; and then culmination of all stood within 
 
 The Coliseum ("Colosseum"), by daylight and 
 if possible by moonlight, beholding at once the re- 
 remains of the mightiest structure ever raised by the 
 hand of man the Pyramids alone excepted and 
 the record of a historical cruelty unparalleled even 
 in thought. The Coliseum is known to have been 
 built in honor of Titus, conqueror of Jerusalem, and 
 tradition says that 60,000 captive Jews were engaged 
 for ten years upon it, while, at its inauguration, A. D. 
 71, 5,000 animals and 10,000 of those less valuable 
 animals, captives, were slain. It is alleged to have 
 given seats to 87,000 spectators; and even that may 
 be possible, when it is remembered that the circum- 
 ference is 1,641 feet and the height of the outer wall 
 157, the whole covering six acres. Before going to 
 the Coliseum, however, unless the passage is " by 
 heart," no one should fail to read over again that 
 wonderful description of Byron : 
 
 " On such a night 
 I stood within the Coliseum's wall, 
 'Mid the chief relics of almighty Rome. 
 The trees which grew along the broken arches 
 Waved dark in the blue midnight," etc. 
 
 There are a thousand other objects of interest, in 
 and around Rome, but when the tourist has seen 
 these, and the gigantic
 
 270 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Castle of /St. Angelo (once Hadrian's Tomb) ; the 
 
 Pantheon, in wonderful preservation, though 
 built by Agrippa, about A. D. 30 or 40, as the mon- 
 ument of old Roman genius, but now doubly sacred 
 as containing the Tomb of Raphael ; the 
 
 Arch of Titus, and the Baths of the same Em- 
 peror, with a few hundred ruined temples, etc., and 
 driven out on the 
 
 Appian Way to Albano and its Lake, with in- 
 teresting remains studding the whole Campagua, 
 and visited a few of the sculptors' studios, he may 
 be said to have " done " Rome quite as well as can 
 be expected of the short-trip traveller. 
 
 (Before leaving Rome it should be said that May 
 and June are the pleasantest months there, and that 
 possibly August and September are the least so ; 
 while, in spite of a heavy atmosphere not favorable 
 to the lungs, a " winter at Rome " is held to be " not 
 a bad thing to do.") 
 
 ROME TO NAPLES AND NORTHWARD. 
 
 From Rome direct, by Albano, Capua, Frascati, 
 Caserta, etc., in nine to ten hours, to 
 
 NAPLES, on the Bay of the same name, now the 
 largest city in Italy (with nearly half a million in- 
 habitants), and for a long period one of the most 
 popular of resorts for tourists and invalids. It was, 
 until the late formation of the Kingdom of Italy, the 
 capital of the Kingdom of Naples, ruled by Bourbon 
 princes except during the brief period of the occu- 
 pation of the throne by Xapoleon's proxy, Joachim 
 Murat. It is also the very paradise of beggars bad
 
 IN ITALY. 271 
 
 enough throughout Italy, but here unendurable ; 
 and to be either penniless or deaf and blind is rather 
 a blessing than otherwise to the traveller, just here. 
 Much curiosity, to those fond of such things, is to be 
 found in the port, with extended break-water piers, 
 or " moles," and in the fortifications near, that have 
 once been formidable but are now dismantled or 
 used for barracks, etc. 
 
 The buildings of most importance are the 
 
 Royal Palace, some three hundred years old, of 
 which some of the rooms are shown, with a few good 
 pictures ; the 
 
 Castle of /St. Elmo, standing on the hill directly 
 back of the central port and fortifications, once very 
 formidable and feared by the inhabitants as a " con- 
 tinual threat," but now used for barracks, like those 
 at the water-side ; the 
 
 Museo Nazionale, with its great collection of 
 antiquities from Pompeii and Herculaneum, and the 
 Farnese collection from Rome (open, except on 
 Monday, from 9 to 3, and Sundays from 9 to 1), 
 forming one of the most interesting gatherings of 
 the antique, in all Europe ; the 
 
 Cathedral, dating from 1272 to 1420, with con- 
 siderable pretensions in architecture, some statues 
 worth noting, at the entrance, and some frescoes, 
 paintings and historical tombs within ; the 
 
 Church of Santa Chiara, interesting as being the 
 burial-place of the Neapolitan Bourbons and having 
 many of their monuments ; that of 
 
 San Domenico, considered the handsomest in 
 Naples, antique, but restored, with some good mon-
 
 272 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 uments and pictures, etc. (The other 300 churches 
 of the city are mostly very uninteresting, and many 
 of them shockingly out of repair.) 
 
 Very much of the interest of sojourn at Naples, 
 however, will be found entirely removed from the 
 city itself in the lovely 
 
 Bay of Naples, considered one of the finest, in 
 every point of view, in the world, with its great 
 
 Isle of Ischia and some other and smaller, lying 
 at the north lip of the Bay, and the more diminutive 
 but more beautiful 
 
 Isle of Capri, holding a similar position across the 
 Bay from the city, at the south lip ; in the aspects of 
 
 Mount Vesuvius, lying a few miles east and 
 south of the city, in full view, and easily reached, by 
 those who wish to make the excursion and ascent, 
 by the short railway to Resina (where guides can be 
 procured), thence on horseback up the mountain-side 
 to the Hermitage, thence to the top on foot the 
 whole excursion and return occupying a laborious 
 but most interesting day. The volcano may or may 
 not happen to be in a state of eruption ; but at all 
 events, the debris, or " hash," of what it has already 
 done, may prove to be quite sufficient, even if a 
 stream of flowing lava should not chance to be met 
 coming down as the tourist is going up ! 
 
 (It is to be presumed that no born American, 
 making this excursion, will need to be advised to 
 obey the guides, keep at the windward side of the 
 crater, and avoid tumbling into the same in the 
 which tumble he would be likely to illustrate Latini- 
 ty on its own ground and discover the meaning of
 
 /y ITALY. 273 
 
 "faciUs descensus Averni" without consulting the 
 books ! Any undue exposures in this direction, as 
 in climbing Swiss glaciers, should be left to mad- 
 men, members of the English " Alpine Club," and 
 people who have their lives heavily insured without 
 any proviso against suicide.) 
 
 The next excursion, also occupying one day, will 
 be that to 
 
 Pompeii and Herculaneum^ the two cities buried 
 by an eruption of the before-named (and visited) Ve- 
 suvius, in A. D. 79 if the history of the affair is to 
 be credited. The visit may be made either by rail- 
 way, to Herculaneum first, leaving at an early hour 
 in the morning and laying over one train there be- 
 fore proceeding on to Pompeii, or by private car- 
 riage, at very nearly the same cost if a party of three 
 or four are to make it together. The theatre, really 
 an " amphitheatre," is the only monument enough 
 dug out to be recognizable, at Herculaneum ; but at 
 Pompeii there are very many curiosities, enough to 
 occupy hours in examination among which perhaps 
 the most interesting will be found the House of 
 Diomed (see Bulwers "Last Days of Pompeii"), 
 the Street of the Tombs, the City Gate (with the 
 sentry-box where the soldier was found dead on 
 duty), the City "Walls, the Street of Abundance, 
 Forum, Amphitheatre, etc. An excellent local map 
 may be bought on the spot, with the streets and 
 houses named, and it will be found indispensable. 
 (A single word of warning : the propensity to carry 
 off relics from Pompeii is very general, and visitors 
 are very closely watched it is not policy to make
 
 274 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 the attempt : better buy them genuine or counter- 
 feit at Naples.) 
 
 Other charming excursions may be made, if time 
 allows, to Castellamare (very short, by railway) ; to 
 Sorrento (ten miles by carriage from Castellamare) ; 
 to Capri (island, very beautiful and famous resort 
 for invalids) by boat from Sorrento; to the ruins of 
 Pa3Stum (by railway from Naples to Vietri and 
 thence by carriage whole day for this alone, if at- 
 tempted). 
 
 From Naples, take steamer of the French Mes- 
 sageries Imperiales (with calls at Civita Vecchia 
 and Leghorn and distant view of Corsica and Elba) 
 to 
 
 GENOA, on the gulf of the same name almost as 
 well known, throughout the world, as " Genoa la 
 Superba " and the " City of Palaces." Though very 
 many of the houses of the old nobility have now 
 been turned into places of trade and common resi- 
 dence, yet the name has not been forfeited, for whole 
 streets are yet lined with buildings that are palaces 
 indeed and still retaining their aristocratic inhabi- 
 tants. Of these 
 
 Palaces, the most interesting are the Palazzo 
 Brignole Sale (or Rossi), with many fine pictures ; 
 the Doria Tarsi, with interesting reminders of Co- 
 lumbus (" native of Genoa ") ; the Doria and Balbi, 
 both with pictures ; the Ducale, once the residence 
 of the Doges or Dukes of Genoa ; the Reale and 
 Pallavicini, both with fine pictures; the Spinola, 
 Universita, etc. Of 
 
 Churches, the most interesting is the Cathedral
 
 I2f ITALY. 275 
 
 of St.. Laurence, erected in the eleventh century, in 
 alternate layers of white and black marble, and with 
 a very fine interior and many relics and curiosities, 
 among which by far the most striking is the green 
 glass dish said to have contained the Paschal Lamb 
 at the Last Supper ! 
 
 There is interest, also, in the fine fortifications 
 surrounding the city ; in some of the promenades 
 particularly the Acquasola, an esplanade on the old 
 fortifications, with view over the gulf; and in the 
 Monument to Columbus, an elaborate allegorical 
 group, in the Piazza d'Acquaverde. 
 
 From Genoa by diligence (vetturina) occupying 
 two days and spending the night at Oneglia by 
 the 
 
 Corniche JRoad, one of the most beautiful in the 
 world, literally overhanging the Gulf of Genoa, 
 throughout almost all the route, and supplying the 
 loveliest of sea and shore views, to 
 
 Nice, on the Gulf of Genoa, formerly belonging 
 to Sardinia but now to France, with some interest- 
 ing antiquities, much beauty in location, and a pecu- 
 liarly soft climate making it the paradise of invalids. 
 Thence by rail to 
 
 MARSEILLES, on the Gulf of Lyons the Paris of 
 Southern France as Strasbourg is that of Eastern 
 one of the oldest cities of the Mediterranean, found- 
 ed by the Phenicians 600 years before Christ. It 
 has a population of a quarter million, and a harbor 
 said to be able to contain 1,200 vessels ; its fortifica- 
 tions, including the works of the islands Pomegue, 
 Ratoueau and the Chateau d'lf (the latter immortal- 
 
 24
 
 276 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 ized by Dumas, in the " Count of Monte Cristo ") 
 are very formidable ; its Canabiere, or great prome- 
 nade, can show more different nations in a cluster 
 than even Constantinople ; and it is, in point of fact, 
 the oddest, most thriving, dirtiest half-oriental old 
 town on the European continent, besides having 
 given birth to that tocsin of revolution, the " Mar- 
 seillaise." 
 
 From Marseilles, either with or without the run 
 of a few miles, by rail, to 
 
 Toulon, the great naval arsenal of France in the 
 Mediterranean, the place of Napoleon's early exploit, 
 and the depot of the criminal " galleys," if to Tou- 
 lon, then with return to Marseilles, and thence by 
 rail northward to Paris and the French or Ensrlish 
 
 O 
 
 ports. 
 
 Or, if intending to return to Switzerland and pur- 
 sue any of the Swiss or German routes then by rail 
 from Marseilles to 
 
 LYOXS, at the junction of the Rhone and the Saone 
 another very old city, now of some 200,000 inhabi- 
 tants, and principally noted as the most extensive 
 silk manufactory in the world. It has splendid quays 
 along the rivers, is a thriving and important city, 
 and will be specially dear to every spectator (which 
 means everybody) of the " Lady of Lyons." It has 
 some Roman antiquities ; some buildings of histori- 
 cal importance (particularly the Hotel de Ville, 
 where the revolutionists, after the siege of the city, 
 planned their horrible atrocities, during the Reign 
 of Terror) ; a Museum, with some fine pictures; and 
 an out-look, from the tower on the Heights of
 
 IN ITALY. 277 
 
 Fourvieres, from which Mt. Blanc, one hundred miles 
 
 distant, can easily be seen in clear weather. 
 
 From Lyons by rail, by Amberieux to Geneva 
 
 and the Swiss and German routes, 
 
 Or, by rail to. Paris, etc., from Lyons, 
 
 Or, by rail westward to Orleans, Tours, etc., for 
 
 southwestern France, and the entrance into Spain.
 
 XIX. 
 
 SHOKT TEIPS IN SPAIN. 
 
 THE most convenient way of entering Spain, from 
 France, is from Bayonne, one of the most strongly- 
 fortified cities in France, famous for having given 
 birth to that deadly instrument of warfare, the " bay- 
 onet," and reached by railway from Paris by Orleans, 
 Tours (both fine old cities, with Cathedrals and much 
 historical interest), Bordeaux (on the Garonne, the 
 head of the Southern French wine-trade, with beau- 
 tiful quays and much commercial prosperity, a hand- 
 some Cathedral, some Roman remains, a Triumphal 
 Arch, etc., 'all worth notice). 
 
 From Bayonne, by rail, to 
 
 JJiarritz, within a few years made famous by its 
 becoming the favorite sea-side resort of the Emperor 
 and Empress of France, who have a villa (the "Villa 
 Eugenie ") here. 
 
 By rail from Biarritz, for a very brief ride to the 
 Spanish frontier-town of 
 
 Irun, where the division between the two coun- 
 tries is crossed and change of trains is made from 
 the French Chemin de Fer du Midi (French Cen- 
 tral Railway) to the Ferro Carril del Norte (N orth- 
 ern Spanish). Frorn Iran, passing at the edge of 
 the Pyrenees, the tourist will be principally occu- 
 pied with going through tunnels (of which there are
 
 IN SPAIN. 279 
 
 some .fifty before reaching Madrid), and in noticing 
 that everybody smokes, incessantly, besides enjoying 
 something like the same description of scenery, in 
 .crossings at great elevation, and peepings down into 
 awful ravines, while going up the Valley of the Uru- 
 mea to Tolosa, that has been enjoyed in riding up 
 the Valley of the Rhone from Culoz to Geneva. By 
 Miranda (junction with the Bilbao railway) ; after 
 which the first stop of any importance (which should 
 be for at least one day) is made at 
 
 BFEGOS, one of the finest of old Spanish cities, 
 though very damp, cold and windy for a long time 
 the capital of Spain, scene of many of the exploits 
 and the " Wedding " of the Cid Campeador, as well 
 as of the tragedy of " Count Alarcos." Burgos lies 
 on the side of a hill, beside the river Arlanzon ; has 
 a handsome Calle Espolon (main street) facing the 
 river; a 
 
 Cathedral, commenced in the thirteenth century, 
 built in the most elaborate Gothic " renaissance," 
 with two pointed towers at the west front and one 
 pinnacled at the east, bearing the reputation of being 
 almost equal, in both grandeur and elaborate archi- 
 tecture, to that of Strasbourg while within there 
 are many splendid side-chapels, handsome monu- 
 ments, the old " Coffin of the Cid," chained up 
 against a wall, and constantly thronging men and 
 women who show the dark eyes and picturesque cos- 
 tumes of Spain ; several other handsome churches ; 
 and the bones of the Cid, kept in a walnut urn in 
 the chapel of the Town Hall. 
 
 From Burgos by rail to
 
 280 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Valladolid, very handsomely situated on the left 
 bank of the river Pisuerga, at its confluence with the 
 Esqueva. Formerly another of the capitals of Spain ; 
 and seat of a University of eminence, which still re-, 
 mains; and notable as having been the death -place 
 of Columbus. Its principal present attraction is the 
 Museum, with some good pictures and sculptures ; 
 and it has also the old Royal Palace (decayed) and 
 a Cathedral worth visiting. From Valladolid by 
 rail to 
 
 MADEID, the capital of Spain, standing in the 
 middle of a plain nearly twenty-five hundred feet 
 above the level of the sea (boasting to be the " high- 
 est capital in Europe"), with a population approach- 
 ing 300,000, a climate which requires warm wrap- 
 ping up for nine months and constant fanning for 
 three (French mot with reference to this : " La Ma- 
 drid a neuf mois d^Mver et trois mois d'enfer!" 
 literally, " nine months winter and three hot enough 
 for the infernal regions"), a painful absence of shade, 
 and a history of much interest, especially in the 
 earlier centuries, before Philip II., when it had not 
 yet become the exclusive capital of Spain, to the 
 disadvantage of the half-dozen former capitals of 
 provinces Toledo, Cordova, Seville, Granada, Bur- 
 gos, etc. 
 
 The fashionable promenade and drive of Madrid 
 is 
 
 The Prado, considered among the finest, as it is 
 among the largest, public-grounds and afternoon- 
 drives, in Europe, nearly two miles long and thickly 
 studded with elm-trees; and the centre of the city
 
 281 
 
 and place where Madrid life of all sorts may best be 
 seen, is the 
 
 Puerto del /Sol, or Central Square, where the most 
 infinite variety of characters and costumes may be 
 observed, nearly every province having its repre- 
 sentatives and no two provinces dressing alike. An 
 early visit, of course, is always paid to the 
 
 Royal Palace, an immense and imposing pile, 
 built by Philip V., covering a space of 470 feet in 
 each direction by one hundred feet in height, and 
 considered one of the most magnificent royal resi- 
 dences in the world. The interior is said to be es- 
 pecially rich in statues and marbles, and in the gor- 
 geousness of the throne-room ; but owing to the 
 vandalism of some of the visitors, a few years ago, 
 no admissions are now granted. A fine statue of 
 Philip IV. stands in. the gardens adjoining. At the 
 southern end of the Palace is the 
 
 Royal Armory (admission on any day by pre- 
 senting passports), containing probably the finest 
 single collection of old armor, weapons and warlike 
 curiosities, on the globe among the most notable, 
 armor worn by Charles V., Philip II., Francis I. (of 
 France), Christopher Columbus, Queen Isabella (at 
 the siege of Granada), etc. ; with a very rich collec- 
 tion of guns and other weapons, a crowned and robed 
 effigy of St. Ferdinand, etc. The Naval Museum, 
 near, has also many notable curiosities. But the 
 greatest of all attractions, at Madrid, is the 
 
 Royal Picture- Gallery, containing undoubtedly 
 one of the finest as well as most extensive collections 
 in the world the only collection of works of the
 
 282 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 
 
 great Spanish painter Velasquez, in point of fact, 
 being found here, as well as the " Immaculate Con- 
 ception" and many of the best other works of Muri- 
 llo, and hosts of those of Spagnoletto, of Rubens, of 
 Titian, of Vandyke, of Claude Lorraine, of Raphael, 
 Correggio, and all the group of great masters, de- 
 manding days to give them even reasonable atten- 
 tion. (Complete catalogues can be found at the 
 doors, and admission can be procured every day.) 
 The 
 
 Churches of Madrid are many and mean, as com- 
 pared with several other Continental cities. The 
 most interesting is the Convent of Atocha, with its 
 miracle-working Virgin, and the handsomest that of 
 San Francisco. The 
 
 Palacio del Congreso (Congress Hall of Spain), 
 Hotel de Ville and other public buildings, are also 
 worth a visit. 
 
 A day should be devoted to an excursion, by 
 rail, to 
 
 The Escorial, church-palace-tomb of the Spanish 
 monarchs, built by Philip II. in fulfilment of a vow, 
 and probably the largest specimen of architectural 
 bulk on earth, after the Egyptian pyramids. It is 
 700 feet long by 564 wide; massively ugly without 
 and massively-gorgeous within ; while the royal vault 
 chamber, under the high altar, where all the kings 
 are buried, in marble sarcophagi with names in gilt 
 letters, in niches in the deep walls may well vie 
 with any other attainable spot in its mixed and pain- 
 ful lesson. The Sacrista should also be noted, for its 
 fine frescoes ; the Dome should be ascended (for those
 
 AV SPAIN. 283 
 
 strong of leg) to obtain the fine view therefrom ; and 
 many other objects of interest will be found among 
 others the room where Philip II. died in torture, 
 and the Casa del Principe, a perfect toy-house, with 
 furniture and pictures, built for Charles IV. when in 
 his boyhood. 
 
 A Bull-Fight may be witnessed within almost 
 any three days of stay in Madrid, in the Plaza de 
 Toros, an amphitheatre in the outskirts by any who 
 are desirous of feasting themselves with a little ex- 
 tra-brutality. But it is pleasant to say that the laws 
 of Spain do not make it obligatory upon the travel- 
 ler that he shall do so before leaving the capital ! 
 
 From Madrid by rail (changing trains at Al- 
 cazar), and by Ciudad Real, with perhaps a dash of 
 diligencia (stage-coach) for a portion of the route, 
 as the finishing and running of Spanish railways is 
 always a little problematical to 
 
 CORDOVA, on the Guadalquivir, once the capital 
 of the Moors in Spain, and where the celebrated 
 " Cordova leather " used to be manufactured, but 
 now in decay and tumble-down, with only a few 
 leading curiosities remaining, in the Great Mosque 
 with its " Moorish battlements and Catholic dome " 
 and its " Court of Oranges " ; the Bishop's Palace, 
 also in a state of decay ; the ruins of the Palace 
 of the Moorish Kings, etc. 
 
 From Cordova by rail to 
 
 SEVILLE, also on the Guadalquivir, famous for its 
 oranges, its picturesquely-dirty people (gipsies in- 
 cluded from whom Murillo was said to have drawn 
 many of his models), for the
 
 284 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Giralda, splendid square Moorish tower, of 350 
 feet in height, and one of the most picturesque of the 
 works of that race, remaining ; the 
 
 Cathedral, with its massive Gothic architecture, 
 its " Court of Oranges," too, its magnificent stained- 
 glass windows and many fine pictures, with some of 
 Murillo's master-works among others ; the 
 
 Museo, where the wealth of pictures by Murillo 
 (native of Seville) -is to be seen ; the 
 
 Alcazar, part of an old Moorish palace, now re 
 built ; and the Casa de Pilato, said to be an exact 
 imitation of Pontius Pilate's house at Jerusalem. 
 
 From Seville by rail, across the beautiful wine- 
 producing districts of Andalusia, to 
 
 CADIZ, on the Bay of Cadiz, the great seaport of 
 southwestern Spain, its commercial interest oddly 
 mingled with the reputation of possessing the most 
 beautiful women in Spain the " dark-eyed girls of 
 Cadiz," sung by Byron, Moore, Hans Christian An- 
 derssen, and others. It has two fine promenades 
 on the Alameda, and on the fortifications near the 
 port, where the sea-view is especially beautiful at 
 evening and the crowd of loungers very pictur- 
 esque. 
 
 Cadiz (wonderful relief!) ^happens to have no old 
 Cathedrals, Museums or ruins, worth the visiting, so 
 that it forms the pleasantest of places for a little 
 lounging and sea-coast life, those feminine people 
 with the dark eyes, long lashes and passionate tem- 
 peraments being kept duly in view ! 
 
 From Cadiz by steamer, through the straits of 
 Gibraltar, with views of the wonderful natural and
 
 IN SPAIN. 285 
 
 artificial fortification of Gibraltar, and also of Tan- 
 gier, on the Barbary coast, opposite to 
 
 MA.LAGA, famous for its wine and raisin, lemon 
 and orange export-trade, and one of the most impor- 
 tant commercial cities of Spain. It has a handsome 
 modern Cathedral, a pleasant Alameda for prome- 
 nading, and the loveliest of climates for pulmonary 
 invalids ; and like Cadiz, it offers no bother of art or 
 antiquity, except the ruins of the walls built by its 
 Carthaginian founders. 
 
 From Malaga by diligence, by Loja (about fifteen 
 hours), to 
 
 GEANADA, the old Moorish capital, on the Darro, 
 lying on a beautiful plain some 2,000 feet above the 
 level of the sea, and at the base of the Sierra Ne- 
 vada Mountains. It is very oriental of aspect, es- 
 pecially from the minarets which yet remain from 
 the Moorish days ; and its climate vies with that of 
 Malaga for temperature and healthiness. But of 
 course the visit to Granada is principally paid, by 
 travellers from all parts of the world, and yet more 
 by Americans, familiar with "Washington Irving's 
 " Alhambra " and Prescott's " Ferdinand and Isa- 
 bella " to see 
 
 The Alhambra (guide or volet de place necessa- 
 ry), the old palace of the Moorish kings, and by far 
 the finest Saracenic remain in Europe. All the 
 features of this "wonder in the earth" will be shown 
 by guide and local guide-book, and any attempted 
 enumeration of them, here, would be idle. From 
 approaching the entrance, where stands the unfin- 
 ished palace of Charles V., the front split by an
 
 286 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 earthquake and the work stopped in consequence 
 from the Alberca, or Fish-Pond (Bathing-room of the 
 Sultanas), through the Repose-room, the Bath-rooms 
 of the King and Princes, the Saloon of La Barca, the 
 Saloon of the Two Sisters, the Hall of the Ambassa- 
 dors, the Saloon of the Abencerrages, the great Court 
 of the Lions through all these, and others, and 
 everywhere, the airy lightness of Oriental work in 
 marble, the effect of mingled color, the adaptation 
 of natural forms (as flowers, snow-wreaths, leaves, 
 etc.) to the purposes of art, form a combination of 
 beauty and grandeur to which only the one word can 
 be applied bewildering. Hours must be spent in 
 wandering through the Alhambra and remembering 
 the power, crimes, virtues and sorrows of the race 
 who built it ; but days would be better adapted to 
 that end. 
 
 Granada has yet other attractions, in the 
 
 Cathedral, a massive structure, of the sixteenth 
 century, with some statues and pictures within ; 
 the 
 
 Genoralife, another fine Moorish remain, opposite 
 the Alhambra and across the deep ravine beside it 
 now belonging to a Genoese nobleman, who has 
 never even taken the trouble to visit it ; the Torre 
 de la Vela, near the Alhambra, commanding a fine 
 view of the architectural wonders ; the Gold-Wash- 
 ings in the Darro, where the ladies go on St. John's 
 Eve to wash their faces and derive good complexions 
 for the year ; the Carthusian Convent (a mile from 
 the town), with some good marbles; etc., etc. 
 
 From Granada, return to Malaga by diligence,
 
 IN SPAIN. 287 
 
 or if- preferred, on horseback in somewhat longer 
 
 time, by Albana. 
 
 - From Malaga, steamer to Marseilles for return 
 
 northward. 
 
 25
 
 XX. 
 
 HINTS FOR A SHORT ROUTE IX THE EAST 
 
 STRICTLY speaking, the short-trip tourist does not 
 make any run to what is called " the East : " if he 
 does, he is in danger of moulting his title in the very 
 act, and becoming the " long-trip " traveller -just as 
 the Frenchman's little dog, all the value of which 
 consisted in his remaining little, would insist upon 
 growing to a big dog, and thus spoiled himself. It 
 may be, however, that some of those who begin with 
 the intention of only making short trips in Europe, 
 may change their intention or find themselves dif- 
 ferently circumstanced from what they had sup- 
 posed ; and it is especially for their benefit that the 
 following mere hints and outlines for seeing the most 
 interesting portion of the Orient in economic connec- 
 tion (time and money, both), is here inserted. 
 
 The most convenient point, generally, at which 
 the routes before marked out can be departed from, 
 is to be found at Venice. From that Italian city, by 
 rail to 
 
 TRIESTE, the most important commercial town of 
 Austria, and the successor of Venice to the great 
 trade of all that portion of the Mediterranean lying 
 at the head (northeast) of the Adriatic Sea. Its 
 principal interest lies in its harbor, where a system 
 of canals (devised principally by the Empress Maria
 
 AY GREECE. 289 
 
 Theresa) supplies the want of natural advantages. It 
 has, however, two interesting public squares, the 
 Piazza Grande and Borsenplatz ; a Cathedral (Byzan- 
 tine) of the fourth century; and what is called the 
 Piazzetta (little place) de Ricardo, where Richard 
 Coeur de Lion is alleged to have been confined by 
 the Duke of Austria on his return from the Crusades, 
 leading to the charming poetical story of his discov- 
 ery by the minstrel Blondel. 
 
 At Trieste is to be taken one of the steamers of 
 the Austrian Lloyds (a corporation which vies with 
 the French Messageries Imperiales and the English 
 Peninsular and Oriental Company, in lines running 
 everywhere) through the Grecian Archipelago, to 
 
 The Piraeus, port of Athens, from which is 
 reached, four miles distant, 
 
 ATHENS, capital of Greece, and historically as 
 well as artistically one of the most interesting cities 
 on the globe. Its history is too well known, as 
 connected with science, the arts and letters, to need 
 even the briefest reference ; and to those who do 
 need such reminder, something more than the few 
 words of the guide-book would be found necessary. 
 Among the most notable of the great architectural 
 remains which make Athens the wonder of the world, 
 are the ruined Parthenon, or Temple of Minerva ; 
 the Acropolis ; Mars Hill (or the Areopagus), where 
 St. Paul preached to the " too superstitious " men of 
 Athens ; the Tower of the Winds ; the Arch of Ha- 
 drian ; the Temple of Jupiter Olympus ; etc. ; while 
 no one sojourning any time at Athens, should fail to 
 visit the Battle-field of Marathon, in the immediate
 
 290 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 neighborhood. (Excellent local guide-books, in 
 English, can be purchased at Athens, and for any 
 stay they will be found indispensable.) 
 
 From Athens, by steamer, through the loveliest 
 and most noted of the islands of the Archipelago, 
 by Rhodes, famous as the old seat of the Knights of 
 St. John of Jerusalem ; by Patrnos, where St. John 
 wrote the Revelation, while in Roman banishment ; 
 by Samos, noted in heathen mythology as the birth- 
 place of Juno, and also as the birth-place of the 
 coveted " Samian wine " that Byron ordered ' : dashed 
 down," in his " Isles of Greece ; " by Scio, the largest 
 island of the Levant, and one of the loveliest ; by 
 Mytilene, the ancient Lesbos, where " Sappho the 
 Lesbian " had her birth and home ; by Tenedos, etc., 
 through the narrow passage of the Dardanelles, into 
 and through the Sea of Marmora, by Abydos (scene of 
 Byron's well-known poem, the " Bride of Abydos"), to 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE, on the European or western 
 side of the Bosphorus (Turkey in Europe), the capi- 
 tal of the Turkish Empire, with nearly or quite a 
 million of inhabitants, and bearing the same relation 
 to the East that is borne by Rome to Western 
 Europe. It was originally "Byzantium," from its 
 Greek founder Byzas ; but had little importance until 
 refounded by the Emperor Constantine, and made 
 the capital of the Eastern Empire, in the fourth cen- 
 tury. It has filled quite as large a space in history, 
 as even Rome has-been fought over, around and 
 about, nearly as much, even in comparison to time, 
 as the City of Mexico has been repeatedly besieged, 
 and twice captured: once in 1204, by the Second
 
 71V TURKEY. 291 
 
 Crusaders, and again in 1453 by tlie Turks, since 
 which time it has been in Mohammedan possession 
 and supplied the Turkish capital. 
 
 Constantinople is considered to be one of the 
 loveliest cities, in situation, on the globe, the Golden 
 Horn (curved brand) of the Bosphorus), forming a 
 magnificent harbor, and the shaded suburbs forming 
 a fine background to the tall spires (minarets) of the 
 many mosques which have replaced the Christian 
 churches. Within, however, the city is dirty, ill- 
 laid-out and badly-built. The old walls still exist, 
 with seven of the original forty-three gates ; and the 
 suburbs of Pera, Galata and Tophana have a certain 
 beauty, even near especially the two former, where 
 most foreigners reside. 
 
 The leading objects of interest ai;e the Bazaars,, 
 where Oriental trade may be seen in all its oddity 
 and shiftlessness ; the Sultan's Seraglio (outside) ; 
 the Mosques of St. Sophia (visited by permission of 
 the Sultan, obtained through the Embassy of the 
 visitor's nation), of Solyman the Magnificent, Sultan 
 Achmet and Mohammed the Second; the Ceme- 
 teries, by far the handsomest things connected with 
 the city, etc. 
 
 From Constantinople, by steamer, to 
 
 SMYRNA, in Asiatic Turkey, the most important 
 commercial city in Asia Minor, where, for the first 
 time, the Orient may be seen in its full glory the 
 city squalid, the society and trading - community 
 mixed of all Eastern nations, and figs so plenty 
 (Smyrna being the great depot of this fruit) that 
 they become almost a " drug in the market."
 
 292 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 From Smyrna, by steamer, to 
 
 Beirut (or Beyrout), in Syria, a very old town of 
 no particular present consequence, except as a port, 
 though it has historical recollection as the Greek 
 Berytus, a noted seat of learning, and also in con- 
 nection with the Crusades. 
 
 At Beirut horses and guides will be procured 
 across the Syrian plains, two days, to the mighty 
 and magnificent 
 
 Ruins of Baalbec, by far the most ponderous and 
 among the most interesting of the early architectural 
 remains of the East, dwarfing all others in the 
 weight of the single stones and the extent of labor 
 (some of the wall-stones measure each 30 feet long, 
 15 wide and 13 deep!) thrown together in a limited 
 space, in the Temple of the Sun, that of Jupiter, 
 and the Circular Temple. From Baalbec on, by the 
 same mode of travel, to 
 
 DAMASCUS, called the oldest city in the world, 
 and founded by Uz, the grandson of Xoah, some 
 4,000 or 4,500 years ago ! alternately the Syrian 
 capital of the Babylonians, the Persians, the Ro- 
 mans, the Saracens (Arabic Mohammedans) and now 
 of the Turks. It is especially noted for its flat- 
 roofed houses (for sleeping upon), mean without but 
 handsome within for its beautiful gardens for its 
 bazaars and as having for centuries produced the 
 peculiarly-tempered swords known as the " Damas- 
 cus blades," as well as the artistic work in metal- 
 polishing known as " damascening." It has, of 
 course, a wonderful history, Pagan, Mohammedan 
 (through Mohammed) and Christian (through St.
 
 iy PALESTINE. 293 
 
 Paul) ; and it has an Oriental sleepy magnificence 
 peculiar to its air. There are several mosques, with 
 the Great Mosque principal and said to contain the 
 head of John the Baptist in a gold casket ; and 
 there is an old Castle of immense size, with moat, 
 etc., but ruined and dismantled within. 
 
 From Damascus, with horses and guides, as be- 
 fore, by Banias (Cesarea Philippi), Safed, Capernaum, 
 Tiberias, Nazareth (birthplace of the Saviour), Jenin, 
 Samaria and Xablous (the ancient Shechem), to 
 
 JERUSALEM, the "Holy City," as Rome has been 
 called the "Eternal" with the places held " Holy" 
 by all Christians first among them the Church of 
 the Holy Sepulchre, on Mt. Calvary, covering the 
 spot where the body of the Saviour was laid, as also 
 (as alleged) that where He was crucified ; the Gar- 
 den of Gethsemane, the Mount of Olives, the site of 
 Solomon's Temple, and so many other spots and 
 relics connected with sacred history, that a reminder 
 of them would be only an insult. That task may 
 well be left, in detail, to the guides, who will be 
 found quite sufficiently garrulous, in a dozen lan- 
 guages. Outside of and near the city will of course 
 be visited the Valley of Jehoshaphat, the. town of 
 Bethany, etc. ; and a more extended excursion, occu- 
 pying three days, will be made to the Dead Sea and 
 the Jordan where it enters that remarkable and 
 thankless lake. 
 
 From Jerusalem to the coast, the way will still 
 be pursued with guides and horses, two days' travel 
 (stopping the single night at the Convent at Ram- 
 leh), to
 
 294 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 Jaffa, on the coast of Syria (eastern eml of the 
 Mediterranean Sea). Jaffa has a bad harbor, diffi- 
 cult of landing in rough weather; and it has no 
 other special interest to travellers than the still-re- 
 maining (shown) "House of Simon the Tanner," 
 where St. Peter had his vision, instructing him as to 
 what was " uncleanness." 
 
 At Jaffa, steamer will be taken to 
 
 ALEXANDRIA, in Egypt at the western mouth 
 of the Xile the seaport and commercial city of that 
 nation founded, as the name implies, by Alexander 
 the Great, and splendidly situated between the mouth 
 and Lake Mareotis, while a canal connects it with 
 the Rosetta mouth. It has two ports the old har- 
 bor, on the west, and the new, on the east, and 
 owes its principal modern importance to the fact of 
 being the landing-place of all the many great lines 
 of steamers on the routes to India and to and from 
 the different ports of the ^Mediterranean. Of course 
 it has a world of antique history, as the name of its 
 founder recalls, as also the fact that it possessed the 
 celebrated Alexandrian Library, burned by an igno- 
 rant tyrant. It has few curiosities, but some of the 
 highest interest, including the celebrated Pompey's 
 Pillar, at the south side, near the walls erected in 
 honor of the Emperor Diocletian, A. D. 296; the 
 two Cleopatra's Xeedles, one standing and one fallen 
 and partially covered, at the east side, near the sea 
 alleged to have been erected in 1495 E. c., and so 
 to be of the ripe age of over 3,360 years ; the Pacha's 
 Palace ; Catacombs, etc. A very mixed society Avill 
 be found at Alexandria, but scarcely more oriental
 
 AV EGYPT. 295 
 
 than- at Marseilles, and the city may be said to be 
 more than halt' European. 
 
 From Alexandria by rail, some 130 miles up the 
 Nile, to 
 
 CAIRO, the chief city and capital of Egypt, with 
 nearly half a million of inhabitants and all the Ori- 
 ental characteristics exaggerated no place on earth 
 
 ~O L 
 
 showing a greater variety in the costume of citizens, 
 and none more oddity in narrow and dirty streets, 
 odd mosques, bazaars, and everything ultra-Mussul- 
 manish. Days may be spent in studying it the 
 Constantinople of Africa. 
 
 One of the first visits, at Cairo, should be paid to 
 the Citadel, to catch the magnificent view of the 
 Nile, the Pyramids, the four hundred mosques of the 
 city, the distant desert, etc. Some of the splendid 
 Mosques will then be visited especially the new 
 one of Mehemet Ali, the old ones of Tayluon, Sultan 
 Hassan, Sultan Kaloon ; some of the Palaces among 
 others those of Mehemet Ali and Ibrahim Pacha ; 
 Joseph's Well, supposed to have been hewn in the 
 rock under the direction of the son of Jacob when 
 ruling in Egypt ; some of the fine Gardens surround- 
 ing the walls, etc. 
 
 The most indispensable of excursions from Cairo 
 is that to the Pyramids, about twelve miles either 
 way made on donkey-back, with guides. Too much 
 observation and admiration cannot well be bestowed 
 upon the master pile of Cheops, with its two lesser 
 companions and six very much smaller ; but there 
 is no law in Egypt to compel the ascent of any one 
 of them, and some sensible people avoid that exer-
 
 296 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 cise and its fatigue and extortion. Xear the Pyra- 
 mids is the wonderful Sphynx ; and not far distant, 
 on the Xile bank, are the few scattered ruins that 
 remain of the once mighty city of Memphis all 
 easily embraced in the one day's excursion. 
 
 Of course the Nile will receive due attention, as 
 a river and a terrestrial'shower. It is from Cairo that 
 all the boating parties start, up the river; but the 
 American short-trip traveller may well content him- 
 self with a brief sail or row, and leave the ascent to 
 sleepier or more leisurely people. 
 
 Return from Cairo to Alexandria ; then take one 
 of the steamers of the English Peninsular and Ori- 
 ental Company, down the Mediterranean, to 
 
 MALTA, the celebrated Mediterranean island of 
 Great Britain, lying about fifty miles southward of 
 Sicily with a most interesting history, especially in 
 connection with the Knights, driven away from the 
 Crusades, who so long held it against the Turks. Its 
 port, Valetta, has a fine harbor, is splendidly forti- 
 fied, and shows many remains of the old warlike 
 times ; while in the Palace of the Grand Master may 
 be found a splendid collection of old arms and tro- 
 phies, in the Armory, with many fine pictures by 
 Maltese painters ; and these and the Church of St. 
 John, the Grotto of St. Paul (near the town) the 
 Catacombs of St. Paul, etc., would be certain to fill 
 more time than the hurried traveller is likely to have 
 at command. 
 
 From Malta to Marseilles, by steamer ending 
 the route, of which it may be said, in addition, that 
 it may be very hurriedly made, from Trieste to Mar-
 
 iy THE EAtiT. 297 
 
 seilles, in six to seven weeks, but should properly 
 require ten to thirteen. 
 
 Or, as may be easily discovered from the number 
 of steamers and different lines, trips may be arranged 
 to embrace one or another part of it with or with- 
 out Constantinople with or without Jerusalem 
 with or without Alexandria and Egypt, etc., if some- 
 thing of the East is specially desired and yet the 
 pressure on time or means is too great to admit of 
 all.
 
 XXI. 
 
 A FEW USEFUL PHEASES IN FKENCH AND GEEMAN. 
 
 THE promise was made, in one of the early pa- 
 pers of this volume, that a few words and phrases 
 should be given, at the close, calculated to render 
 an actual assistance in countries of Europe where 
 only French or German should happen to be met. 
 That promise is now to be kept, with the understand- 
 ing recalled that no attempt is intended at supplying 
 either a "conversation-book" or a glossary that 
 only those few words and phrases are set down, in 
 both French and German, "with a decent understand- 
 ing of which experience has proved that travel and 
 sight-seeing can be pretty well managed in the coun- 
 tries where those tongues are in use, while without 
 them, to say the least, one gets along badly enough 
 if at all. It is not to be expected that anything 
 here, can render much assistance in understanding 
 replies made: that advantage can only be secured 
 by understanding the languages, or acquired through 
 continued conversations : to be able to ask for things 
 wanted, and direct things necessary to be done, is 
 the only rational immediate hope of the mere Eng- 
 lish speaker, even assisted by these following pages 
 which seem so incomplete and have yet cost such 
 extended labor.
 
 A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 299 
 
 FRENCH. 
 
 A FEW SIMPLE RULES WORTII REMEMBERING. 
 
 1st. The French i generally sounds like the English e. 
 
 2d. The French e generally sounds like the English a. 
 
 4th. The French U generally sounds like the English y. 
 
 6th. The French en generally manages to become a cross between on 
 and ong. 
 
 7th. The concluding consonant of a word, in French, is ruthlessly sac- 
 rificed when the next word commences with a consonant; but when that 
 nest word commences with a vowel, the concluding consonant of the pre- 
 vious word is not sacrificed but carried over and stuck fast to the other. 
 
 8th. Le (the) is always masculine ; la is always feminine, and the sex 
 of the words they adjoin is understood by them. Les, the plural, however, 
 is both masculine and feminine. The first is pronounced as nearly as pos- 
 ble like the English lith, the second like lah, and the third lay. 
 
 9th. De (of), du (of the), and des (of, or of the, plural), are sounded 
 duh, deu, day. 
 
 6th. Eur, which in English sounds as ure, in French leaves out the u 
 in sound and is simply er. 
 
 3d. E with an acute accent (e) is always pronounced like a long, as in 
 " c6le" where the pronunciation is kotay ; e with a grave accent (e) is* 
 always pronounced like the English e in "met," as in "caractere," pro- 
 nounced " kar adder" with accent on the last syllable ; while e with the 
 broad accent (e) is sounded long and broadly, with a cross between Eng- 
 lish e and a, as in " tele" pronounced tayt (nearly). 
 
 10th. The French idiom, or arrangement of sentences, is generally the 
 exact reverse of the English ; so that when any doubt exists as to which 
 of two adjoining words to place first, it is generally nearest safe to remem- 
 ber what the English would be, and reverse it. 
 
 llth. The French noun is not perfect, as the English is, without the 
 article before it: they cannot say Amerique (America), but rAnwriqiie 
 (literally the America). 
 
 12th. Generally, the habit of the French language does not permit words 
 to be implied, like the English : they must be expressed. 
 
 13th. He, concluding a French word, is so lightly used that it is little 
 more than a roll of the r, and is sometimes scarcely heard at all, as in 
 Louvre, gruatre, sounded Louvrrr, quatrrr. 
 
 14th. The French qu generally sounds as k, as in qui (who), pro- 
 nounced ke. 
 
 15th. The more that words are chopped up, mangled, swallowed, and 
 ejected through the nose (like tobacco-smoke by old smokers), the more 
 possibility will exist of their being understood by a Frenchman.
 
 300 
 
 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 MONTHS OF THE TEAK AND DAYS OF THE WEEK. 
 
 ENGLISH. 
 
 FBENCH. 
 
 PBONOUXCED. 
 
 January, 
 
 Janvier, 
 
 Jhonvay. 
 
 February, 
 
 Fevrter, 
 
 Fevray. 
 
 March, 
 
 Mars, 
 
 Marrs. 
 
 April, 
 
 Avril, 
 
 Ahvreel. 
 
 May, 
 
 Mai, 
 
 Myee. 
 
 June, 
 
 Juin, 
 
 Jhuan. 
 
 July, 
 
 Juillet, 
 
 Jhnelay. 
 
 August, 
 
 Aout, 
 
 Ah-oo. 
 
 September, 
 
 Septembre, 
 
 Septombr. 
 
 October, 
 
 Octobre, 
 
 Octobr. 
 
 November, 
 
 Novembre, 
 
 Novombr. 
 
 December, 
 
 Decembre, 
 
 Daysombr. 
 
 Monday, 
 
 Lundi, 
 
 Loondee. 
 
 Tuesday, 
 
 Mardi, 
 
 Mardee. 
 
 Wednesday, 
 
 Mercredi, 
 
 Mayrcraydee. 
 
 Thursday, 
 
 Jeudi, 
 
 Jhndee. 
 
 Friday, . 
 
 Vendredi, 
 
 Vondraydee. 
 
 Saturday, 
 
 Samedi, 
 
 Somdee. 
 
 Sunday, 
 
 Dimanche, 
 
 Deemonshee. 
 
 
 NUMEBALS AND 
 
 ORDINALS. 
 
 One, 
 
 Un, 
 
 oon. 
 
 Two, 
 
 Deux, 
 
 deu. 
 
 Three, 
 
 Trais, 
 
 trwa. 
 
 Four, 
 
 Quatre, 
 
 Kawtr. 
 
 Five, 
 
 Cinque or cinq, 
 
 sackg. 
 
 Six, 
 
 Six, 
 
 ziss. 
 
 Seven, 
 
 Sept, 
 
 eet. 
 
 Eight, 
 
 Huit, 
 
 wheet. 
 
 Nine, 
 
 Neuf, 
 
 noof. 
 
 Ten, . 
 
 Dix, 
 
 diss. 
 
 Eleven, 
 
 Onze, 
 
 onz. 
 
 Twelve, 
 
 Dffuze, 
 
 dooz. 
 
 Thirteen, 
 
 Treize, 
 
 trayz. 
 
 Fourteen, 
 
 Quatorze, 
 
 kahtorz. 
 
 Fifteen, 
 
 Quinze, 
 
 kauz. 
 
 Sixteen, 
 
 Seize, 
 
 sayz. 
 
 Seventeen, 
 
 Dix-sept, 
 
 diss- set. 
 
 Eighteen, 
 
 Dix-fiuit, 
 
 diss-wheet. 
 
 Nineteen, 
 
 IHx-nei/f, 
 
 diss-noof. 
 
 Twenty, 
 
 Tingt, 
 
 vant. 
 
 Thirty, 
 
 Trente, 
 
 trout.
 
 A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 
 
 301 
 
 ENGLISH. 
 
 FRENCH. 
 
 PRONUNCIATION. 
 
 Forty, 
 
 Quarante, 
 
 karont. 
 
 Fifty, 
 
 Cinquante, 
 
 sankant. 
 
 Sixty, 
 
 Soixante, 
 
 swassant. 
 
 Seventy, 
 
 Soixante-d'ix, 
 
 swassant-diss. 
 
 Eighty, 
 
 Quatre-vingt, 
 
 kawt-vant. 
 
 Ninety, 
 
 Quatre-vingt-dix, 
 
 kawt-vant-diss. 
 
 One Hundred, 
 
 Cent, 
 
 Bawnt. 
 
 One Thousand 
 
 , Un Jfille, 
 
 oon meel. 
 
 One Million, 
 
 Un Milion, 
 
 oon meelyong. 
 
 First, 
 
 Premier (e, fern.), 
 
 prem-yare. 
 
 Second, 
 
 Second (, fern.), 
 
 se-koud. 
 
 do., 
 
 Deuxieme, 
 
 dyoozhec-em. 
 
 Third, 
 
 Troisieme, 
 
 trwazee-em. 
 
 Fourth, 
 
 Quatrieme, 
 
 kawtree-em. 
 
 Fifth, 
 
 Cinqitieme, 
 
 sawnkee-em. 
 
 Sixth, 
 
 Sixieme, 
 
 zissee-em. 
 
 Seventh, 
 
 Septieme, 
 
 settee-em. 
 
 Eighth, 
 
 Huitieme, 
 
 wheetee-em. 
 
 Ninth, 
 
 Neuvieme, 
 
 noovee-em. 
 
 Tenth, 
 
 Dixieme, 
 
 dizzee-em. 
 
 Eleventh, 
 
 Onzieme, 
 
 on zee-em. 
 
 Twelfth, 
 
 Douzierrw, 
 
 dooze-em. 
 
 Thirteenth, 
 
 Treizieme, 
 
 treze-em. 
 
 Fourteenth, 
 
 Quatwzidme, 
 
 katorzee-em. 
 
 Fifteenth, 
 
 Quinsieme, 
 
 kanzee-em. 
 
 Sixteenth, 
 
 Seizeieme, 
 
 seezee-em. 
 
 Seventeenth, 
 
 Dix-septieme, 
 
 dissitee-ern. 
 
 Eighteenth, 
 
 Dix-huittime, 
 
 disswheete-em. 
 
 Nineteenth, 
 
 Dix-neuvi&me, 
 
 dissnovce-em. 
 
 Twentieth, 
 
 Vingtieme, 
 
 vantee-em. 
 
 Thirtieth, 
 
 Trentieme, 
 
 trontee-eci. 
 
 Fortieth, 
 
 Quarantieme, 
 
 karontee-cm, 
 
 
 etc., etc., etc. 
 
 
 A FEW 
 
 NAMES OF VERY COMMON OBJECTS AND 
 
 
 PERSONS. 
 
 
 ( With different prefixes.} 
 
 The bread, 
 
 I^epain, 
 
 leh pan. 
 
 The salt, 
 
 Lesel, 
 
 leh s el. 
 
 Some butter, 
 
 IHi beurre, 
 
 deuh berr. 
 
 A knife, 
 
 Un cvuteau, 
 
 oon cohto. 
 
 A fork, 
 
 Une fourchette, 
 
 oon forchet. 
 
 The dish, 
 
 ISassiette, 
 
 1' ashyet.
 
 302 
 
 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 ENGLISH. 
 
 FRENCH. 
 
 PKONTJNCIATION. 
 
 A napkin, 
 
 Une serviette, 
 
 oon snrvyet. 
 
 The eggs, 
 
 Des ozufs. 
 
 dez ufe. 
 
 Beef, 
 
 Le bmif, 
 
 lehbeff. 
 
 Roast beef, 
 
 Rosbif, 
 
 r-r-oasbif. 
 
 Some potatoes, 
 
 Des pommes de terre, 
 
 day pom deh tair. 
 
 Oysters, 
 
 Les huitres, 
 
 lez weeter. 
 
 Mutton, 
 
 Lemouton, 
 
 leh mootong. 
 
 Veal, 
 
 Le veau, 
 
 leh vo. 
 
 Some pork, 
 
 2>u pore, 
 
 deuh pork. 
 
 Some cherries, 
 
 Quelque censes, 
 
 kelke sareese. 
 
 The table, 
 
 La table, 
 
 lah tahble. 
 
 Pepper, 
 
 Le poivre, 
 
 leh pwavr. 
 
 Mustard, 
 
 La moutarde, 
 
 lah mootard. 
 
 That church, 
 
 Cette eglise, 
 
 set eeglees. 
 
 This street, 
 
 Cette rue ci, 
 
 set reuw see. 
 
 The street-corner, 
 
 Le coin de la rue, 
 
 leh quan deh lah roo. 
 
 A bottle, 
 
 Une bouteUle, 
 
 oon bootyee. 
 
 The goblet (glass), 
 
 Le verre, 
 
 leh verr. 
 
 A cup, 
 
 Une tasse. 
 
 oon tas. 
 
 Some coffee, 
 
 Du cafe, 
 
 deuh caffay. 
 
 A cup of tea, 
 
 Une tasse de the, 
 
 oon tas deh tay. 
 
 A big fish, 
 
 Un gros poisson, 
 
 oon gro pwasson. 
 
 The little dog, 
 
 Le petit chien, 
 
 leh paytce sheeon. 
 
 My soup, 
 
 Monpotage, 
 
 mon po-tahj. 
 
 Your brandy, 
 
 Votre eau de vie, 
 
 vootr o devee. 
 
 Our cucumbers, 
 
 Nos concombres, 
 
 no concombr. 
 
 A spoou, 
 
 Urn cuiller, 
 
 oon koolyare. 
 
 The carriage, 
 
 La witure, 
 
 lah vwateur. 
 
 The railway, 
 
 Le chemin defer, 
 
 leh shaman deh fair. 
 
 The shoes, 
 
 Les soldiers, 
 
 Jay solyair. 
 
 A pair of boots, 
 
 Une pair de bottes, 
 
 oon piar day boat. 
 
 A coat, 
 
 Un habit, 
 
 oon abbee. 
 
 The trowsers, 
 
 Les culottes 
 
 lay cooloat. 
 
 A new vest, 
 
 Un gilet nouveau, 
 
 oon jelay novo. 
 
 The waiter. 
 
 Le garfon, 
 
 leh garsoon. 
 
 The prison, 
 
 La prison, 
 
 lah pre-zon. 
 
 The doctor. 
 
 Le docteur, 
 
 leh docterr. 
 
 do 
 
 Le medecin, 
 
 leh maydeesan. 
 
 The hotel, 
 
 L'hotel, 
 
 lotel. 
 
 A stairway, 
 
 Un escalier, 
 
 oon cskalyay. 
 
 Abed, 
 
 Un lit, 
 
 oon lee. 
 
 The bed-chamber, 
 
 La chambre a coucher, 
 
 leh shambr ah cooshay. 
 
 A furnished room, 
 
 Une chambre garnie, 
 
 oon shambr garnee. 
 
 A beef-steak, 
 
 Un biftek, 
 
 oon biftek. 
 
 A beef-steak well done, 
 
 Un bifted bien cuit, 
 
 oon biftek beyon quee. 
 
 do rare done. 
 
 do saignant, 
 
 c!o sagnyong.
 
 A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 
 
 303 
 
 ENGLISH. 
 
 FRENCH. 
 
 PRONUNCIATION. 
 
 Fried potatoes, 
 
 Pommes de terrefrites, 
 
 pom de tayr Irete. 
 
 A looking-glass, 
 
 Un miroir, 
 
 oon meerwa. 
 
 An umbrella, 
 
 Oon parapluie, 
 
 oon paraplu. 
 
 Thomas's hat, 
 
 Le chapeau de Thomas, 
 
 Ich shappo deh Tomas. 
 
 The other horse, 
 
 L'autre cheval, 
 
 lotr shay vol. 
 
 Wine, 
 
 Le Tin, 
 
 leh van. 
 
 Some water, 
 
 De Teau, 
 
 dello. 
 
 The comb, 
 
 Le peigne, 
 
 leh pine. 
 
 The window, 
 
 Lafenelre, 
 
 lah faynayter. 
 
 The door, 
 
 La porte, 
 
 lah poart. 
 
 A great house, 
 
 Une grande maison, 
 
 oon grond miyeson. 
 
 The porter, 
 
 Le portier, 
 
 leh portya. 
 
 Breakfast, 
 
 Le dejeuner, 
 
 leh dejunay. 
 
 Dinner. 
 
 Le diner, 
 
 leh deeiiay. 
 
 Supper, 
 
 Le souper, 
 
 leh soopay. 
 
 A handkerchief, 
 
 Un mouchoir, 
 
 oon mooshwar. 
 
 The watch, 
 
 La montre, 
 
 lah montr. 
 
 A little clock, 
 
 Une petite cloche, 
 
 oon patee cloash. 
 
 A room, 
 
 Un appartement, 
 
 oon appartmawng. 
 
 Oar gloves, 
 
 Nos gants, 
 
 no gawnt. 
 
 The shirts, 
 
 Les chemises, 
 
 la shem-eese. 
 
 A trunk, 
 
 Une matte, 
 
 oon mal. 
 
 My basket, 
 
 Mon pannier, 
 
 mawng panya. 
 
 The theatre, 
 
 Le theatre, 
 
 lah teeatr. 
 
 A theatre-box, 
 
 Une loge de thedfre, 
 
 oon loaj deh teeatr. 
 
 Reserved seats, 
 
 Places numerotees 
 
 plass inimayroatay. 
 
 A seat in the theatre, 
 
 Un place au theatre, 
 
 oon plass oh teeatr. 
 
 A ticket of admission, 
 
 Un billet d'entree, 
 
 oon beyea dawn tray. 
 
 The porter, 
 
 Le concierge, 
 
 leh consairghe. 
 
 A chamber maid, 
 
 Une femme de chambre, 
 
 von fam deh chambre. 
 
 Meats, 
 
 Viandes, 
 
 veeond. 
 
 The baggage, 
 
 Le bagage, 
 
 leh bahjjahzj. 
 
 An attendant, 
 
 Un valet de place, 
 
 oon vallee deh plass. 
 
 A body servant, 
 
 Un valet de chambre, 
 
 oon vallee deh shombr. 
 
 QUESTIONS, ANSWERS AND INQUIRIES, OFTENEST 
 USEFUL. 
 
 Hallway Travelling. 
 
 [To buy a ticket, etc., at the office,] 
 
 TKAVELLER. Monsieur, je desire un billet pour Paris. (Pronounced : Jzhe 
 dayseer oon beyea poor Parreese. JSnglish : Sir, I wish a ticket to 
 Paris.)
 
 304 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 TICKET-SELLER. Certainement, Monsieur; qifette dasse voulez wits? 
 (Pro. Sertanmong, Mossiew; ke] clahs yoolay TOO? Eng. Certainly, 
 sir ; what class will you have ?) 
 
 TRAV. Qu'el estleprix des places? (Pro. Kel ay leh pree da plass. Eng. 
 What is the price of places.) 
 
 TICKET-S. Les premieres content dnquante francs, et les secondes trente 
 francs. (Pro. La prameyer coot out sankont fronk, ay la segond tront 
 fronk. Eng. The first cost fifty francs, the second thirty.) 
 
 TEAT. Donnez moi les secondes, s*il mus plait. (Pro. Donneh mwa lay se- 
 gond, seel voo play. Eng. Give me the second, if you please.) 
 
 TICKET-S. Combien de places, Monsieur? (Pro. Combeyon deh plass, Mos- 
 siew. Eng. How many places, sir f ) 
 
 THAT. Unepour moi seulement. (Pro. Oon poor mwa, soolmawng. Eng. 
 One for myself only.) 
 
 TICKET-S. Void, Monsieur. (Pro. Wabsee, Mossiew. Eng. Here it is, 
 sir.) 
 
 [Making Inquiries.] 
 
 QUESTION. A qtfette heurepart le train pour Paris ? (Pro. Ah kel oor par 
 
 leh tran poor Parree? Eng. At what hour does the train start for 
 
 Paris f) 
 ANSWER. Le train part a dixheures. (Pro. Leh tran par tab dee soor: Eng. 
 
 The train leaves at ten o'clock.) 
 Qu. Ou nou-s arreterons nous pour diner? (Pro. Oo noo sarrayteron noo 
 
 poor denay ? Eng. Where So we stop for dinner ? 
 ANS. A Bouen, Monsieur. (Pro. Ah Ruan, Mossiew. Eng. At Roaen, 
 
 sir.) 
 Qr. Combien de temps s'arrete-t-on id? (Pro. Combeyon deh torn sah- 
 
 rayteton esee ? Eng. How long time do we stop here ':) 
 ANS. Vinyl minutes (Farret. (Pro. Vant meenwheet darray. Eng. 
 
 Twenty minutes of stoppage.) 
 Qu. A qu"eUe Jieure partirons nous? (Pro. Ah kel oor parteron noo? 
 
 Eng. At what hour do we start ?) 
 
 Axs. Dans quinze minutes, Monsieur. (Pro. Dawn kanz meenwheet, Mos- 
 siew. Eng. In fifteen minutes, sir.) 
 Qu. Est ce le train pour Dijon? (Pro. Ay see leh tran poor Deejzhon ? 
 
 Eng. Is this the train for Dijon ?) 
 Ays.^'o/i. Monsieur; ce train est dix minutes en retard. (Pro. Non, 
 
 Mossiew ; seh tran a dee meenwheet on raytard. Eng. No, sir ; that 
 
 train is ten minutes behind.) 
 ANS, Out, Monsieur; ce train en droit. (Pro. Wee, Mossiew; set tran 
 
 on drwat. Eng. Yes, sir; that train on the right.) 
 Qu. Changeons nous a la proctiaine station? (Pro. Shonjayon noo ah 
 
 lah proshnin stahshon ? Eng. Do we change at the next station ?) 
 ANS. Non, Monsieur; le premier change est a Bdlegarde. Pro. Xonr,
 
 A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 305 
 
 Mossiew; leh premya shonje es tab Belgard. Eng. No, sir; the first 
 change is at Bellegarde.) 
 
 [ Warnings and Demands.'] 
 
 GUABD OR PORTER. Monsieur a-t-il d'avantage cle bagage? (Pro. Mos- 
 siew ah teel dah vantahzj deh bahgahzj ? Eng. Has the gentleman 
 any more baggage ?) 
 
 TBAV. Non, Monsieui tout le bagage est dans la witure. (Pro. Nong, 
 Mossiew too leh bahgahzj ay dawn lah vwahteur. Eng. No, Bir all 
 the luggage [American. " baggage "] is in the carriage.) 
 
 GUABD. Vos billets, Mesdamos et Messieurs. (Pro. Vo beyea, May dam ay 
 Messiew. Eng. Your tickets, ladies and gentlemen.) 
 
 GUABD. En voiture, Messieurs .'en voiture! (Pro. On vwahteur, Mes- 
 siew 1 on vwahteur 1 Eng. Take your carriages, gentlemen !) 
 
 GUARD. En witure, de suite, Messieurs, s'tt vous plait ! (Pro. Oa vwateur, 
 deh sweet, Messiew, seel voo play I Eng. Take your carriages, gen- 
 tlemen, in a hurry, if you please !) 
 
 GUABD. Change de voitures, Messieurs ! (Pro. Shonjay deh vwateur, 
 Messiew ! Eng. Change carriages, gentlemen !) 
 
 Taking Carriages and Riding. 
 
 TBAV. (To Cabman, on stand) Coch&r, ete wits libre ? (Pro. Coshay, ettay 
 
 voo leebr ? Eng. Cabman, are you free ? [disengaged.] 
 CABMAH. Non, Monsieur, f attends quelqu'un. (Pro. Nong, Mossiew, 
 
 zjahttond kelkoon. Eng. No, sir ; I am waiting for some one.) 
 CABMAN. Oui, Monsieur je suis libre. (Pro. Wee, Mossiew, jeh swee 
 
 leebr. Eng. Yes, sir, I am disengaged.) 
 TBAY. Donnez mois votre carte. Pro. Donneh mwa voatr cart. Eng. 
 
 Give me your card t. e., the card of prices which all French cabmen 
 
 carry with them.) 
 TBAV. Je vous prends a la course. (Pro. Je voo prand ah lah coorse. 
 
 Eng. I engage you for the route to which I wish to go.) Or, 
 TBAV. Je vous prends a fheure. (Pro. Je voo prend ah loor. Eng. I take 
 
 you by the hour. 
 CABMAN. Ou faut-tt vous conduire Monsieur ? (Pro. Oo fo teel voo con- 
 
 dweer Mossiew ? Eng. Where does the gentleman wish to be taken ? 
 TBAV. Au Grand Hotel ; or, au Boulevard Poissonniere, numero cinquante- 
 
 huit. (Pro. Oh Gron Dotel; or, oh Boolevard Pwassonyer, numero 
 
 eankont-wheet. Eng. To the Grand Hotel ; or, to the Boulevard Pois- 
 
 soniere, number fifty-eight.) 
 Tiusr.Attez! (Pro. Allay ! Eng. Goon!) 
 TBAV. Marchez! marchez! (Pro. MarBhay! marshay! Eng. Faster! 
 
 faster!)
 
 306 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 TBAV. Pas si vitef or, Attez plug doucement! (Pro. Pah se veet; or 
 
 allay ploo doosmong. Eng. Go more slowly.) 
 TBAV. (When getting out of the cab, to have it wait) Aitendez mm id: 
 
 je vais revenir; or, je reriens dans quelque minutes. (Pro. Je vay 
 
 rayvaneer ; or, je rayveeon dawn kelk meenwheet. Eng. Wait for me 
 
 here I will return ; or, I will return in a few minutes.) 
 CABMAN. Man argent. Monsieur! (Pro. Mong arjong, Mossiew! Eng. 
 
 My money, sir ! , 
 
 TBAV. Void. (Pro. Vwassee. Eng. Here it is.) 
 CABMAN. Plus encore le pour boire, Monsieur ! (Pro. Ploo eancoar leh 
 
 poor bwar, Mossiew ! Eng. More yet, sir : the drink-money !) 
 TRAV. Combien de pour boire? (Pro. Combeyon deh poor bwar ? Eng. 
 
 How much drink-money ?) 
 TBAT. Ce n'est pas possible de payer rien de plus. (Pro. Ce nay pah pos- 
 
 eeebl deh paya reeon deh ploo. Eng. It is not possible [for me] to 
 
 pay any thing more.) 
 TBAV. Arretez! or, arretez vous, cocker! (Pro. arraytay; or, arraytay 
 
 vous, coghay. Eng. Stop ! or, stop, coachman.) 
 
 Eating and Urinking. 
 
 OBDEBS TO WAITERS. Garfon, faites moi sercir. (Pro. Gahsoon, fan 
 mwa sareveer. Eng. Waiter, attend on me.) Je desire diner. (Pro. 
 Je deseer deenay. Eng. I wish dinner.) Donnez moi du potage a la 
 Julienne. (Pro. Donnay mwa deuh potahj ah lah Jzhulion. Enq. Give 
 me eome soup a la Julienne.) Du rosbifbien cuit. (Pro. Deuh roosbif 
 beeyon quee. Eng. Some roast-beef well done.) Du rosbif saignani. 
 (Pro. Deuh roasbif sainyong. Eng. Some roast-beef rare.) Du pore 
 rott. (Pro. Deuh pork roatee. Eng. Some roast pork.) Du pain. 
 (Pro. Deuh pan. Eng. Some bread.) Encore un peu plus de beurre. 
 (Pro. Oncoar oon pew ploo deh burr. Eng. A little more butter.) Une 
 tasse de cafe. (Pro. Oon tasa deh caffay. Eng. A cup of coflee.) Un 
 verre d~eau. (Pro. Oon vayr doe. Eng. A glass of water.) Un Terre 
 ffeau glacee. (Pro. Oon vayr doe glassay. Eng. A glass of ice-water.) 
 Des pomrne de terre. (Pro. Day pom deh tayr. Eng. Some potatoes.) 
 Une bouteUle de vin rouge. (Pro. Oon bootye deh van ruzjh. Eng. A 
 bottle of red wine.) Une demi-bouteitte de vin blam. (Pro. Oon daymee - 
 bootye de van blong. Eng. A half-bottle of white wine.) Apportez 
 moi un assiette propre. (Pi-o. Apporteh mwa oon awsyet proapr. Eny. 
 Bring me a clean plate.) Un fricassee de poulet. (Pro. Oon frecasay 
 deh poolay. Eng. A chicken fricasee.) Deux cotelets de veau. (Pro. 
 Deuh cotaylay de vo. Eng. Two veal cutlets.) Du mouton bovilli. 
 (Pro. Denh mootong boolee. Eng. Some boiled mutton.) Deux cevfs 
 frits. (Pro. Deuz ufe freet. Eng. Two fried eggs.) Du poissons 
 ooditti. (Pro. Deuh pwassong boolee. Eng. Boiled fish.) Du pain 
 au sucre. (Pro. Deuh pan o sukr. Eng. Some cake.) Du pates de
 
 A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 307 
 
 fruits. (Pro. Deuh Pahtay de fruee. Eng. Some fruit pies.) Du sucre. 
 (Pro. Deuh soocr. Eng. Some sugar.) Le sel. (Eng. The salt.) Un 
 outre cuiller. (Pro. Oon otre queelay. Eng. Another spoon.) Une 
 assiette, un couteau, unsfourc/iette, et une serviette. (Pro. Oon awsseyet, 
 oon coeto, oon forshet et oon sairveeyet. Eng. A plate, a knife, a fork 
 and a napkin.) L 1 addition, s'il vousplatt. (Pro. Laddishong, seel voo 
 play. Eng. The bill, if you please.) 
 
 Greetings. 
 
 Bon jour, Monsieur. (Pro. Bong joor, Mossiew. Eng. Good-morning, 
 sir.) Son soir. (Pro. Bong swar. Eng. Good evening, when meet- 
 ing; and good-night, when separating.) Adieu! (Pro. Ahdeyou. 
 Eng. Good-bye.) Au revoir. (Pro. O rayvwar. Eng. Farewell, but 
 to return literally, good-bye for a little while.) J'ai rhonneur de vous 
 solver. (Pro. Sjay lonner deh voo salooer. Eng. I have the honor to 
 salnte you.) Permittez moi de])rendre conge de vou-s. (Pro. Permeetay 
 mwa deh prondr conjay deh voo. Eng. Permit me to take leave of 
 you.) Merci. Madam! (Pro. Mayrsee, Mahdam ! Eng. Thank you, 
 Madame !) Mille remerciements, Mademoiselle. (Pro. Meel raymayr- 
 ehemons, Madmwasel. Eng. A thousand thanks, Miss.) Je vous 
 remercvi, Monsieur. (Pro. Je voo raymayrci, Mossiew. Eng. I thank 
 you, sir.) 
 
 Inquiries, etc. 
 
 Pardon, Monsieur! (Pro. Pardong, Mossiew. Eng. Beg pardon, sir! 
 [always to be used in accosting any stranger or making apology for any 
 contretemps.]) Je wus prie de m'indiquer cette addresse, etc. (Pro. 
 Sje voo pree deh mandeekay cet address, etc. Eng. I beg you to in- 
 dicate to me that address, etc.) Dans qudle direction est PEglise de St. 
 Koch f (Pro. Dawn kel derecshon ay layglee de San Roash. Eng. In 
 what direction is the church of St. Roch ?) ' Ou est situee cette rue ? 
 (Pro. Oo ay seetuay set roo? Eng. Where is that street situated?) 
 Qu'elle est cette maison ? (Pro. Kel ay set myeson ? Eng. What house 
 is that?) Enface est-ce une maison de modes? (Pro. On fass ay se 
 oon myeson deh moad? Eng. Is that the fashion-shop, opposite?) 
 De quel cote la Bourse, a droite ou a gauche f (Pro. Deh kel cotay lah 
 Boors, ah drwat ou ah goash ? Eng. Which way is the Bourse, to the 
 right or the left ?) J'ai besoin d'habits. (Pro. Sjay ba-swan dabbee. 
 Eng. I desire some clothes [in buying].) Quel en est leprix, etc. (Pro. 
 Kel on ay leh pree, etc. Eng. What is the price, etc.) C'est troy cher! 
 (Pro. See ay tro share. Eng. That is too dear or high-priced.) 
 
 Finding Interpreter or Guide. 
 
 Je desire un Interprete. Pro. Sje daseer oon antayrpret. Eng. I wish an 
 interpreter.) Je wudrais un garcon pour me montre leg places princi-
 
 308 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 pales. Pro. Sje voodray oon garsoon poor montr me lay plass pransee 
 pal. Eng. I require a servant to point me out the principal places [of 
 interest.]) Je desire un valet de place qui parle V Anglais. (Pro. Je 
 daseer oon vallee deh plass ke parl long-glay. Eng. I wish a valet who 
 speaks English.) T^a-t-il quelqu'un id queparle Analais ? Pro. Ee 
 ateel kelkoon esee kee parl Ongglay ? Eng. Is there any one here 
 who speaks English ? Qui voulez tcous qui m' accompagner adjourd- 
 hui? (Pro. Kee voolay voo kee macconipang adjerdwhee? Eng. 
 What do you ask, to accompany me during this day ?) Qui demandez 
 vous, etc. (Pro. Kee damandah voo, etc. Eng. What do you demand, 
 etc.) 
 
 Entering, Finding .Persons, etc. 
 
 Q. (Knocking or at a door.) Puis-je entrer? or, me permittez vous d'en- 
 trer ? (Pro. Pweege ontra? or, me permeetta voo dontra? Eng. 
 May I come in? or. Will } - ou permit me to enter?) A. Entrez! or 
 Certainement .' (Pro. Ontray! or, Certanmong. Eng. Come in, or, 
 Certainly.) Q. Monsieur H., est-il a la maison?or, est-il chez lui? 
 Pro. Mossiew H., esteel ah la myesong ? or, esteel eha luee? Eng. 
 Mr. H., is he in the house? or, is he at home?) A. Out. Monsieur, 
 Mow. H. est dans sa chambre. (Pro. Wee, Moseiew, Mossiew H. a don 
 Bah shombr. Eng. Yes, sir, Mr. H. is in his room.) Q. Puis-je le 
 wir ? (Pro. Pweege sje leh vwar ? Eng. Can I see him ?) Or, De- 
 mandez lui si I pent me recevoir. (Pro. Daymanday luee seel peut me 
 raysayvwar. Eng. Ask him if he is able to see me.) A. Non, Mon- 
 sieur, Mons. H. riest pas a la maison ; or, riest pas chez lui. (Pro. 
 Nong, Mossiew, Mossiew H. neeay pah ah lab myeson ; or, neeay pah 
 sha luee. Eng. No, sir, Mr. H. is not in the house ; or, is not at 
 home.) Q. A qu'elle heure rentrer a-t-tt ? Pro. Ah kel oor rontrara- 
 teel? Eng. At what hour will he return? Eemeitez man carte a 
 Mons. ff., s'il wus plait. (Pro. Eametta mon cart ah Mossiew H., 
 seel voo play. Eng. Send my card to Mr. H., if you please.) 
 
 Language. 
 
 Parlez wus le Francois ? (Pro. Parlay voo leh Fronsay ? Eng. Do you 
 speak French?) Parlez vous V Anglais f (Pro. Parlay voo long- 
 glay ? Eng. Do you speak English ?) P" 1 a-t-il quelqu'im id qui parle 
 f Anglais ? (Pro. Eeeateel kelkoon esee kee parl longglay ? Eng. Is 
 any one here who speaks English?) J/' entendez wus ? (Pro. Man- 
 tanday vous ? Eng. Do you understand me ?) Me comprenez vow f 
 (Pro. Me compranay voo ? Eng. Do you comprehend me ?) Je vous 
 comprends tres-bien. (Pro. Sje voo comprond tray beeon. Eng. I un- 
 derstand you, very well.) Je ne vous comprends pas. (Pro. Sje ne voo 
 comprond pah. Eng. I do not understand you.) Qui appellez vous, 
 etc. (Pro. Cappella voo, etc. Eng. What do you call, etc.) Jiepetes, 
 s'il VGitsjolait ; or, repetez, je vous prie. (Pro. Raypaytay, geel voo
 
 A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 309 
 
 play ; or, raypectay sje voo pree. Eng. Repeat, if you please ; or, I 
 beg you.) Je parle mal de Franfais ; paries plus doucement, je vous 
 prie. (Pro. Sje parl mal deh Frousay : parlay ploo ducemong, sje voo 
 pree. Eng. I speak bad French : speak more slowly, I beg you.) 
 
 In Want. 
 
 Je suis (res pauvre ! faites moi du charite, pour V amour de Dieu ! (Pro. Sje 
 swee tray poavre : fayt mwa dnh charitay, poor lamoor dch Deyoo. Eng. 
 I am very poor : do me some charity, for the love of God !) Or, Pour 
 Vamour de la tres Sainte Vierge. (Pro. Poor lamoor deh lah tray Sant 
 Vairj ! Eng. For the love of the most Blessed Virgin.) J'ai tres 
 faim! (Pro. Sjaytrayfam. Eng. I am very hungry.) J'aitresfroid! 
 (Pro. S'jay tray frwa. Eng. I am very cold.) J "(litres soif ! (Pro. 
 Sjay tray swaf. Eng. I am very thirsty.) J'n'ai pas d'argent ! Pro. 
 Je na pah larghong. Eng. I have no money.) 
 
 In Sudden SicJtness or Accident. 
 
 Je suis malade. (Pro. Sje swee mahlad. Eng. I am sick.) Je suis tres 
 malade. (Pro. Sje swee tray mahlad. Eng. I am very sick.) J'ai mal 
 a la tete. (Pro. Sjay mal ah lah tayt. Eng. I have sickness in the 
 head.) Ma jambe eat cossee. Pro. Ma jhomb a cazzay. Eng. My leg 
 [or my arm mon bras, brah] is broken.) Je vous prie de mefaire con- 
 duite immediatement chez un pharmacien. (Pro. Sje voo pree deh me 
 fair condwee immeedjatemong shez oon pharmahsheeon. Eng. I beg 
 you to have me taken at once to a cloctor's-shop.) Conduisez moi im- 
 mediatement chez un docteur Anglais, Messieurs, je vov-s prie. (Pro. 
 Condweesa mwa immeedjatemong chez oon docter Ongglay, Mes- 
 siew, Bje voo pree. Eng. Take me immediately to an English doctor, 
 gentlemen, I beg you.) 
 
 [For reasons that will be, as the sensational wri- 
 ters say, " obvious to the meanest capacity," no at- 
 tempt is made at instructing the untravelled Ameri- 
 can as to any words or formulas of love-making in 
 France. Two reasons might be adduced, in case of 
 extreme necessity : one, that the writer is totally 
 uninstructed on that special subject ; the other, that 
 none of his clients are likely to need much instruc- 
 tion. At all events, he declines to assume any re- 
 sponsibility.]
 
 310 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 GERMAN. 
 
 The following table of the German vowels and 
 consonants differing in sound from the English, 
 may aid in understanding the spelling of the pro- 
 nunciation, and insure as much accuracy as is possi- 
 ble by printed characters. 
 
 A sounds like ah in ah! or a in father, party ; for example, dag glas, 
 pronounced dahs glahs. It should be remembered that in the spelling of 
 the pronunciation, the ah is not designed to lengthen the syllable, but 
 simply to represent the sound of the a. 
 
 E is equal to ay in day, as der, pronounced dayr. It has also the sound 
 of the English e in ell, as elfte = elf'ty ; and that of y in twenty, as erste = 
 ayrs'ty. 
 
 I sounds like ee in cheer, as mir^meer, and also as i in pin, as bin = 
 Un. 
 
 U is equivalent to oo in poor, as nur = noor. 
 
 Ae or a equals ay in may. It is so like the usual sound of e that it is 
 seldom distinguished from that letter in the pronunciation. 
 
 Oe, or 6 has no equivalent in English. It is like the French eu in feu, 
 and approximates very nearly the i in girl, a? hore=hu'ray. 
 
 He, or is nearly like u in avenue, or the French u in In, as uber = 
 eu'ber. 
 
 Au = ow in how, as Aaws = howss. 
 
 EII, = oy in toy, as heute = hoy' lay. 
 
 Ei=y\n fly, or ey in eye, wiez'w = meyn. 
 
 B, at the end of syllables, is pronounced like p, as halb = hahlp ; Kalb- 
 fldsch=KahlpJleysh. Elsewhere like the English b. 
 
 D, at the end of syllables, has the sound of t, as und = oont ; gesund- 
 heU = gay-zoont'heyt. Elsewhere, like the English d. 
 
 G = g in give, at the beginning of syllables, as g>tt = goot. At the end 
 it has a sound between g and k. There is nothing like it in English, and 
 is represented in the following pages by fig, as vierzig =fear'tsihg. 
 
 ./sounds like y in you, as ja yah ; jager yay'ger. 
 
 S, at the beginning of syllables, sounds like z in zons, as seln = zeyn. 
 Elsewhere like s in son, as maus = mowss. 
 
 V has the sound of/, as von =fon ; vier =fear. 
 
 W is like v, as wenn = ten ; wasser = vahs'ser. 
 
 Z sounds like ts in rats, as zehn = tsayn ; zu = tsoo. 
 
 Ch is pronounced like k, at the beginning of syllables, as chor = kore. 
 Elsewhere, either like ch in the Scotch word loch, as buch = booch, or, not 
 quite so gutteral, as in ich. 
 
 Sch = sh in shine, as fleisch =fleysh.
 
 A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 
 
 311 
 
 MONTHS OF THE YEAR AND DAYS OF THE WEEK. 
 
 ENGLISH. 
 
 GERMAN. 
 
 PRONOUNCED. 
 
 January, 
 
 Januar, 
 
 Yah'noo-ahr. 
 
 February, 
 
 Februar, 
 
 Fay'broo-ahr. 
 
 March, 
 
 Marz, 
 
 Merts. 
 
 April, 
 
 April, 
 
 Ah-pril'. 
 
 May, 
 
 Mai, 
 
 My. 
 
 June, 
 
 Juni, 
 
 Yoo'nee. 
 
 July, 
 
 Juli, 
 
 You'lee. 
 
 August, 
 
 August, 
 
 Ow-goost'. 
 
 September, 
 
 September, 
 
 Zep-tem'ber. 
 
 October, 
 
 October, 
 
 Oc-to'ber. 
 
 November, 
 
 November, 
 
 No-vem'ber. 
 
 December, 
 
 December, 
 
 Day-tscm'ber. 
 
 Monday, 
 
 Mcmtag, 
 
 Moan'tahg. 
 
 Tuesday, 
 
 Dienslag, 
 
 Deens'tahg. 
 
 Wednesday, 
 
 Mittwoch, 
 
 Mit'vohch. 
 
 Thursday, 
 
 Donnerstag, 
 
 Don'ners-tahg. 
 
 Friday, 
 
 Freitag, 
 
 Fry'tahg. 
 
 Saturday, 
 
 Sonnabend ; or 
 
 Zon'ah-bent ; or 
 
 
 Samstag, 
 
 Zahms'tahg. 
 
 Sunday, 
 
 Sonntag, 
 
 Zon'tahg. 
 
 NUMERALS AND ORDINALS. 
 
 One, 
 
 Two, 
 
 Three, 
 
 Four, 
 
 Five, 
 
 Sis, 
 
 Seven, 
 
 Eight, 
 
 Nine, 
 
 Ten, 
 
 Eleven, 
 
 Twelve, 
 
 Thirteen, 
 
 Fourteen, 
 
 Fifteen, 
 
 Sixteen, 
 
 Seventeen, 
 
 Eighteen, 
 
 Eins, 
 Zwei, 
 Drei, 
 Tier, 
 
 Fiinf, 
 
 Sec/ts, 
 
 Sieben, 
 
 Acht, 
 
 Neun, 
 
 Zehn, 
 
 Elf, 
 
 Zwolf, 
 
 Dreizehn, 
 
 Vierzehn, 
 
 Funfzehn, 
 
 Sechzehn, 
 
 Siebzehn, 
 
 Achtzehn, 
 
 Eyns. 
 
 Tsvy. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 Fear. 
 
 Feunf. 
 
 Zes. 
 
 Zee'b'n. 
 
 Ahcht. 
 
 Noyn. 
 
 Tsayn. 
 
 Elf. 
 
 Tsvnlf. 
 
 Dry'tsayn. 
 
 Fear'tsayn. 
 
 Feunftsayn. 
 
 Zech'tsayn. 
 
 Zeeb'tsayn. 
 
 Ahcht'tsayn.
 
 312 
 
 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 ENGLISH. 
 
 GEBMAN. 
 
 PROXOtTNCED. 
 
 Nineteen, 
 
 Neunzfhn, 
 
 Noyn'tsayn. 
 
 Twenty, 
 
 Zwanzig, 
 
 Tsvahn'tsibg. 
 
 Thirty, 
 
 Drei&ig, 
 
 Dry'sihg. 
 
 Forty, 
 
 Vlenig, 
 
 Fear'tsihg. 
 
 Fifty, 
 
 Funfzig, 
 
 Feunf'tsihg. 
 
 Sixty, 
 
 Sechzig, ' 
 
 Zech'tsihg. 
 
 Seventy, 
 
 Stebzig, 
 
 Zeeb'tsihg. 
 
 Eighty, 
 
 Achtzig, 
 
 Ahcht'tsihg. 
 
 Ninety, 
 
 Neunzig, 
 
 Noyn'tsihg. 
 
 One hundred, 
 
 Ein Sundert, 
 
 Eyn Hoon'dert. 
 
 Oue thousand, 
 
 Ein Tausend, 
 
 Eyn Taw's'nt. 
 
 One million, 
 
 Eine Jfttlion, 
 
 Ey'nay Mill-yohn'. 
 
 
 M. F. N. 
 
 
 First, 
 
 Der, die, das crste, 
 
 Dayr, dee, dahs ayrs'ty. 
 
 Second, 
 
 " " " zweite, 
 
 .. u ii tpvy'ty. 
 
 Third, 
 
 " " " clritte, 
 
 " " " drit'ty. 
 
 Fourth, 
 
 " " " vierte, 
 
 .1 u 11 fealty. 
 
 Fifth, 
 
 " " " funfte, 
 
 " " " feunf'ty. 
 
 Sixth, 
 
 " ' " sechste, 
 
 " " " zex'ty. 
 
 Seventh, 
 
 " " " siebente, 
 
 " " " see'b'n-ty. 
 
 Eighth, 
 
 " " " achte, 
 
 " " " ahch'ty. 
 
 Ninth, 
 
 " " " neunte, 
 
 " " li noyn'ty. 
 
 Tenth, 
 
 " " " zehnte, 
 
 " " " tsayn'ty. 
 
 Eleventh, 
 
 " " elfte, 
 
 " " " elf'ty. 
 
 Twelfth, 
 
 " " " zwolfte, 
 
 11 ; u tsvulfty. 
 
 Thirteenth, 
 
 " " " dreizehnte, 
 
 " " " dry'tsayn-ty. 
 
 Fourteenth, 
 
 " " " vierzefinte, 
 
 " " " fear'tsayn-ty. 
 
 Fifteenth, 
 
 " " " funfzehnle, 
 
 " " " feunf'tsayn-ty. 
 
 Sixteenth, 
 
 " " " gecfizehnte. 
 
 " " " zech'teayn-ty. 
 
 Seventeenth, 
 
 " " " siebzthnte, 
 
 " li " zeeb'tsayn-ty. 
 
 Eighteenth, 
 
 " " " acktzehnte. 
 
 " " " ahcht'tsa}-n-ty. 
 
 Nineteenth, 
 
 " " " neunzehnte, 
 
 u 11 u noyn'tsayn-ty. 
 
 Twentieth, 
 
 " ' " zwanzigste, 
 
 " li " tsvahn'tsihg-sty 
 
 Thirtieth, 
 
 " " " dreissigste, 
 
 " " " dry'sihg-sty. 
 
 Fortieth, 
 
 " " " vierzigste, 
 
 " " " fear'tsihg-sty. 
 
 Fiftieth, 
 
 " " " funfzigste, 
 
 " " il feunf tsihg-sty. 
 
 A FEW NAMES OF VERY COMMON OBJECTS AND 
 PERSONS. 
 
 (With different Prefixes.) 
 
 The bread, Das Brod, Dahs Broht. 
 
 The salt, Das Salz, Dahs Zalts. 
 
 Some butter, Ehcas Butter, Et'vahs Boot'ter.
 
 A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 
 
 ENGLISH. 
 
 GERMAN. 
 
 PRONOUNCED. 
 
 A knife, 
 
 Ein Jfesser, 
 
 Eyn Mcs'ser. 
 
 A fork, 
 
 Eine Gabel, 
 
 Ey'nay Gah'b'l. 
 
 The dish, 
 
 Die Schiisssl, 
 
 Dee Sheus's'l. 
 
 A napkin. 
 
 Eine Serviette, 
 
 Ey'nay Zer-vyet'tay. 
 
 The eggs, 
 
 Die Eier, 
 
 Dee Ey'er. 
 
 Beef, 
 
 Einrlfleisch, 
 
 Eint'fleysh. 
 
 Roast beef, 
 
 Gerostete-s Rindfleisch, 
 
 Gay-reus'tay-tes Rint'fleysh. 
 
 Some potatoes, 
 
 Einige Kartoffeln, 
 
 Ey'nee-gay Car-tof'feln. 
 
 Oysters, 
 
 Austern, 
 
 Ows'tern. 
 
 Mutton, 
 
 Hammelfleisch, 
 
 Hahm'mel-fleysh. 
 
 Veal, 
 
 Kalbfleisch, 
 
 Kahlp'fleysh. 
 
 Some pork, 
 
 Etwas Schiveinefleisch, 
 
 Et'vahs Shvy'ny-.leysh. 
 
 A few cherries, 
 
 Einige Kirschen, 
 
 Ey'nce-gay Keer'shen. 
 
 The table, 
 
 Der Tisch, 
 
 Dayr Tish. 
 
 Pepper, 
 
 Pfeffer, 
 
 Pfef'fer. 
 
 Mustard, 
 
 Senf, 
 
 Zenf. 
 
 That church, 
 
 Jene Kirche, 
 
 Yay'nay Keer'chay. 
 
 This street, 
 
 Diese Sfrasse, 
 
 Dee'zay Strahs'say. 
 
 The street corner, 
 
 Die Strassenecke, 
 
 Dee Strahs'sen-ek-kay. 
 
 A bottle, 
 
 Eine Flasche, 
 
 Ey'nay Flah'shay. 
 
 The goblet (glass), 
 
 Das Glas, 
 
 Dahs Glahi?. 
 
 A cup, 
 
 Hine Tasse, 
 
 Ey'uay Tahs'say. 
 
 A saucer, 
 
 Eink Untertasse, 
 
 Ey'nay Oon'tcr-tahs'say. 
 
 Some coffee, 
 
 Etwas Kaffee, 
 
 Et'vahs Kahf'fay. 
 
 A cup of tea, 
 
 Eine Tasse Thee, 
 
 Ey'nay Tahs'say Tay. 
 
 A big fish, 
 
 Eine grosser Fisch, 
 
 Eyn gros'ser Fish. 
 
 The little dog, 
 
 Der kleine Hund, 
 
 Dayr kly'nay Iloont. 
 
 My soup, 
 
 Heine Suppe, 
 
 My'nay Zoop'pay. 
 
 Your brandy, 
 
 Ihr Branntwetn, 
 
 Ear Brahnt'veyn. 
 
 Our cucumbers, 
 
 Unsere Gurken, 
 
 Oon'z'ray Goor'ken. 
 
 A spoon, 
 
 Ein Ldffel, 
 
 Eyu Leuf'f '1. 
 
 The carriage. 
 
 Die Kutsche, 
 
 Dee Koot'shay. 
 
 The railway, 
 
 Die Eisenbahn, 
 
 Dee Ey'zen-bahu. 
 
 The shoes, 
 
 Die Schuhe, 
 
 Dee Schoo'ay. 
 
 A pair of boots, 
 
 Ein Paar Sliefel, 
 
 Eyn Pahr Stee'f 1. 
 
 A coat, 
 
 Ein JRock, 
 
 Eyn Rock. 
 
 The trowsers, 
 
 Die Beinkleider, 
 
 Dee Beyn'kley-der. 
 
 The prison, 
 
 Das Gefdngniss, 
 
 Dahs Gay-feng'niss. 
 
 The doctor, 
 
 Der Dokt&r, 
 
 Dayr Doc'tor. 
 
 The physician, 
 
 Der Arzt, 
 
 Dayr Ahrtst. 
 
 The hotel, 
 
 Der Gasthof, 
 
 Dayr Gahst'hof. 
 
 A stairway, 
 
 Eine Treppe, 
 
 Ey'nay Trep'pay. 
 
 Abed, 
 
 Ein Bett, 
 
 Eyn Bet. 
 
 The bedchamber, 
 
 Das Schlafzimmer, 
 
 Dahs Shlahf tsim-mer. 
 
 A furnished room, 
 
 Ein mdblirtes Zimmer, 
 
 Eyn mu-bleer'tes Tsim'mer.
 
 314 
 
 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 EKGLISH. 
 
 GERMAN. 
 
 A beefsteak, 
 
 Eine gerostete Rind- 
 
 
 fleisch Scheibe, 
 
 Meat well done, 
 
 Fleisch wttig gar, 
 
 Rare meat, 
 
 Halb gares Fleisch, 
 
 Fried potatoes, 
 
 Gebratene Kartoffeln, 
 
 A looking-glass, 
 
 Ein Spiegel, 
 
 An umbrella, 
 
 Ein Segenschirm, 
 
 John's hat, 
 
 Johanris Hut, 
 
 The other horse, 
 
 Das andere Pferd, 
 
 Wine, 
 
 Wein, 
 
 Some water, 
 
 Etwas Wasser, 
 
 The comb, 
 
 Der Kamm, 
 
 The window, 
 
 Das Fenster, 
 
 The door, 
 
 Die Thur, 
 
 A great house, 
 
 Ein grosses Hans, 
 
 The porter, 
 
 Der Pfortner, 
 
 Breakfast, 
 
 FruhstucTt, 
 
 Dinner, 
 
 Mittagsmahl, 
 
 Supper, 
 
 Abendessen, 
 
 A handkerchief, 
 
 Ein Schnupftuch, 
 
 The watch. 
 
 Die Taschenuhr, 
 
 A little clock, 
 
 Eine Ueine Wanduhr, 
 
 A pen, 
 
 Eine Feder, 
 
 Our gloves, 
 
 Unsere Handschuhe, 
 
 The shirts, 
 
 Die Hemden, 
 
 A trunk, 
 
 Ein Koffer, 
 
 My basket, 
 
 Mein Korb, 
 
 The theatre, 
 
 Das Theater, 
 
 A theatre-box. 
 
 Eine Loge des Theaters, 
 
 Ecserved seats, 
 
 Vorbehaltene Sitze, 
 
 A seat in a theatre, 
 
 Ein Sitz in einem 
 
 
 Theater, 
 
 A ticket of admission 
 
 , Ein Einlasszettel, 
 
 A body-servant, 
 
 Ein Rammer diener, 
 
 A chambermaid, 
 
 Ein Kammermddclien, 
 
 The baggage, 
 
 Das Gepdck, 
 
 Ey'nay gay-rus'tay-ty Bint' 
 
 fleysh Shy'bay. 
 FJeysh fulling gahr. 
 Hahlp gah'res Fleysh. 
 Gay-brah't'nay Car-tof 'feln. 
 Eyn Spec 'g' I. 
 Eyn Eay'gen-shecrm. 
 Yo-hahn"s Hoot. 
 Dahs ahn'd'ray Pfayrt. 
 Veyn. 
 
 Et'vahs Vahs'ser. 
 Dayr Kahm. 
 Dahs Fcns'ter. 
 Dee Teur. 
 
 Eyn gros'sess Howss. 
 Dayr Phurt'ner. 
 Freu'stenk. 
 Mit'tahgs-mahl. 
 Ah'bent-es'sen. 
 Eyn Shnoopf'tooch. 
 Die Tah'shen-oor. 
 Ey'nay kly'nay Vahnt'oor. 
 Ey'nay Fay'der. 
 Oon'z'ray Hahnt'shoo-ay. 
 Dee Hem'den. 
 Eyn Kof 'fer. 
 Meyn Korp. 
 
 Dahs Tay-ah'ter. [tors. 
 
 Ey'nay Lo'jay des Tay-aV- 
 For-bay-hahl't'ny Zit'say. 
 Eyn Zits in ey'nem Tay- 
 ah'ter. 
 
 Eyn Eyn'lahs-tset't'l. 
 Eyn Kahm'mer-dee'ner. 
 Eyn Kahm'mer-mayd'gen. 
 Dahs Gray-peck'. 
 
 QUESTIONS, ANSWERS AXD INQUIRIES, OFTEN USEFUL. 
 
 Railway Travelling. 
 
 [To buy a Ticket, etc., at the Office.] 
 
 TBAVEIXEB. Mein Herr, geben Sie mir ein Seisebittet nach Paris. (Pro- 
 nounced. Meyn Hayr, gay'ben zee meer eyn Rey'zay-bill-yet' nahcli 
 Pah-reess'. English. Sir, give me a ticket to Paris.)
 
 A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 515 
 
 TICKET SELLEE. Jcz, mein Herr. Welche Klasie? (Pro. Yah, meyn Hayr. 
 
 Vel-chay Klnhs-say ? Eng. Yes, sir. What class ?) 
 TBAV. Was kosten diePldtze? (Pro. Vahs kos'ten dee Plet'say? Eng. 
 
 What is the price of places ?) 
 TICKET S.Die Ersten kosten fiinf Thaler, die zweiten kosten drei Thaler. 
 
 (Pro. Dee ayrs'ten kos'ten feunf Tah'ler, dee tsvy'ten kos'ten dry 
 
 Tah'ler. Eng. The first cost five dollars, the second three.) 
 TEAT. Geben Sie mir gefdlligst eins zweiter Klasse. (Pro. Gay'ben zee 
 
 meer gay-fel'lihgst eyns tsvy'ter Klahs-say. Eng. Please give me one 
 
 of the second claas.) 
 TICKET S. Wie viete, mein Herr? (Pro. Vce fee'lay, meyn Hayr? Eng. 
 
 How many, Bir ?) 
 Tn\\.0h,nuremsfurmicfi. (Pro. Oh, noor eyns feur mich. Eng. Oh, 
 
 one for myself only.) 
 TICKET S. Hier ist es, mein Herr. (Pro. Heer ist cs, meyn Hayr. Eng. 
 
 Here it is, sir.) 
 
 [Making Inquiries.] 
 
 QUESTION. Um welche Uhr geht der Zug nach Paris ab ? (Pro. Oom vel'- 
 
 chay Oohr gayt dayr Tsoohg nahg Pa-reess' ahb ? Eng. At what hour 
 
 does the train start for Paris ?) 
 ANSWER. Der Zug geht um zelin Uhr ab. (Pro. Dayr Tsoohg gayt oom 
 
 tsayn Oohr ahb. Eng. The train starts at ten o'clock.) 
 Qtr. Wo halten ivir zum Mittag an ? (Pro. Voh hahl'ten veer tsoom Mit- 
 
 tahg ahn ? Eng. Where do we stop for dinner ?) 
 ANS. In Rouen, mein Herr. (Pro. In Rouen, meyn Hayr. Eng. At 
 
 Rouen, sir.) 
 Qu. Wie lange halten ivir hier an ? (Pro. Vee lahng'ay hahl'ten veer heer 
 
 ahn ? Eng. How long do we stop here?) 
 Axs.Zwanzig Minuten. (Pro. Tevahn'tsihg Min-oo'ten. Eng. Twenty 
 
 minutes.) 
 Qu. Um ide viel Uhr geJien wir abf (Pro. Oom vee feel Oohr gay'h'n veer 
 
 ahb? Eng. At what hour do we start ?) 
 ANS. In einer Viertel Stunde, mein Herr. (Pro. In ey'ner fear'tell Stoon'- 
 
 day, meyn Hayr. Eng. In a quarter of an hour, sir.) 
 Qu. Ist dies der Zug nach Dijon? (Pro. Ist deess dayr Tsoogh nahg 
 
 Dijon ? Eng. Is this the train for Dijon ?) 
 ANS. Jfein, mein Herr; der Zug geht zehn Mini/ten sjxifer. (Pro. Neyn, 
 
 meyn Hayr, dayr Tsoohg gayt tsayn Min-oo'ten spay'ter. Eng. No, 
 
 sir, that train goes ten minutes later.) 
 Qu. Ist das der Zug? (Pro. Ist dahs dayr Tsoohg? Eng. Is that the 
 
 train?) 
 ANS. Ja, mein Herr ; der Zug zur Eechten. (Pro. Yah, meyn Hayr ; dajT 
 
 Tfioohg tsoor Rech'ten. Eng. Yes, sir ; the train on the right.) 
 Qu. Wectiseln wir die Wagen an der ntichsten Station? (Pro. Vek'scln
 
 316 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 veer dee Vah'gen ahn dayr nayk'sten Staht-zyon'? Eng. Do we 
 change at the next station?) 
 
 AJTS. Nein, main Herr; der erste Wechsel ist in Bettegarde. (Pro. Neyn, 
 meyn Hayr; dayr ayrs'ty Vek'sel ist in Bellegarde. Eng. No, sir; 
 the first change is at Bellegarde.) 
 
 [ Warnings and Demands.] 
 
 GUABD, OB PORTEB. Hat der Herr noch mehr Gepdck ? (Pro. Haht dayr 
 
 Hayr uoch mayr Gay-peck' ? Eng. Has the gentleman any more bag- 
 gage?) 
 TBAVELLEB. Nein, rnein Herr ; es ist attes in der Kutsche. (Pro. Neyn, 
 
 meyn Hayr ; es ist ahl'less in dayr Coot'shay. Eng. No, sir ; it is all 
 
 in the carriage.) 
 GUABD. Meine Herren und Damen, Ihre Billete! (Pro. Mey'ny Haym 
 
 oont Dah'men, Ee'ray Bill-yet'tay ! Eng. Gentlemen and ladies, your 
 
 tickets ?) 
 GUABD. Steigen Sie ein, meine Herren! (Pro. Stey'gen Zee eyn, mey'ny 
 
 Hayrn ! Eng. Take your carriages, gentlemen !) 
 GUABD. Steigen Sie gefdlligftt schnett ein, meine Herren! (Pro. Stey'gen 
 
 Zee ge-fel'lihgst shnell eyn, mey'ny Hayrn ! Eng. Please to take 
 
 your carriages quickly, gentlemen !) 
 GUABD. Wechseln Sie die Wagen, meine Herren! (Pro. Vek'seln Zee dee 
 
 Vah'gen, mey'ne Hayrn I Eng. Change carriages, gentlemen !) 
 
 Taking Carriages and Riding. 
 
 TRAVELLEB (to cabman). Sind Sie unbeschaftigt f (Pro. Zint Zee oon- 
 bay-shef tihgt ? Eng. Are you disengaged ?) 
 
 CABMAN. Nein, mein Herr, ich warte aitf einen anderen Herrn. (Pro. 
 Neyn, meyn Hayr, ich vahr'tay owf ey'nen ahn'der'n Hayrn. Eng. No, 
 sir, I am waiting for another gentleman.) 
 
 CABMAN. Ja, mein Herr, ich habe nichts zu thun. (Pro. Yah, meyn Hayr, 
 ich hah'bay nichts tsoo toon. Eng. Yes, sir, I am disengaged.) 
 
 TBAV. Geben Sie mir Ihre Karte. (Pro. Gay'ben Zee meer Ee'ray Cahr'- 
 tay. Eng. Give me your card i. e., the card of prices.) 
 
 TBAV. Ich miethe die Kutsche fur den ganzen Weg ivelcJien ich zur&ckzu- 
 legen habe. (Pro. Ich mee'tay dee Coot'shay feur dayn gahn'tsen Vehg 
 vel'chen ich tsoo-renk'tsoo-lay'gen hah'bay. Eng. I engage the car- 
 riage for the whole .route I have to go.) 
 
 TBAV. Ich miethe die Kutsche stundenweise. (Pro. Ich mee'tay dee Coot'- 
 shay stoon'den-vey-zay. Eng. I engage you by the hour.) 
 
 CABMAN. Wohin, mein Herr? (Pro. Vo-hin', meyn Hayr? Eng. 
 Wliereto, sir ?) 
 
 TBAV. Zum grossen Gasthof; or, zur Friedrich Strasse, nitmero acht und 
 funfzig. (Pro. Tsoom gros'sen Gahst-hof; or, tsoor Freed'rich
 
 A FEW USEFUL PHRASES.- 317 
 
 Strahs'say, noo'may-ro ahcht oont feunf-tsibg. Eng. To the large 
 hotel'; or, to fifty-eight Frederick Street.) 
 
 TKAV. Fahren Sie! (Pro. Fah'ren Zee ! Eng. Go on 1) 
 
 TsAv.Schnellerf (Pro. Sh'nel'ler! Eng. Faster!) 
 
 fB\\.Nicht ,90 schnell, fahrt lanr/samer ! (Pro. Nicht zo shiiell, fahrt 
 lahng'sah-mer ! Eng. Not so fast, drive more slowly !) 
 
 TRAV. (When getting out of the cab to have it wait.) Warten Sie Mer ; ich 
 komme gleich ivieder. (Pro. Vahr'tcn Zee heer ; ich kom'may gleych 
 vee'der. Eng. Wait here ; I shall return immediately.) 
 
 CABMAN. Mein Geld, mein Ilerr! (Pro. Meyn Gelt, meyn Hayr ! Eng. 
 My money, sir I) 
 
 TRAV. Da ist es ! (Pro. Dah ist ess ! Eng. Here it is !) 
 
 CABMAN. Noch mehr, mein Herr das Trinkgdd! (Pro. Noch mayr, meyn 
 Hayr dans Trink-gelt ! Eng. More, sir the drink-money !) 
 
 TBAV. Ich kann unmoglich mehr bezahlen. (Pro. Ich kahn oon-muhg'- 
 lich mayr bay-tsah'leu. Eng. I cannot possibly pay more.) 
 
 TRW. Halt, Kutscher! (Pro. Ilahlt, Coot'sher! Eng. Stop, coach- 
 man!) 
 
 Eating and Drinkiny. 
 
 ORDERS TO WAITERS. Kellner, bedienen Sie mich. (Pro. Kell'ner, bay- 
 dee'nen Zee mich. Eng. Waiter, attend on me.) Ich will zu Mittag 
 essen. (Pro. Ich vill tsoo Mit-tahg es'son. Eng. I want some dinner.) 
 Geben Sie mir Suppe a la Julienne. (Pro. Gay'ben Zee meer Zoop'pay 
 ah lah Sheu-lee-en. Eng. Give me some soup ii la Julienne.) Gerostetes 
 Bindjleisch vollig gar. (Pro. Gay-rus'tay-tes Rint'fleysh ful-lihg gahr. 
 Eng. Some roast beef well done.) Gerostetes Rindfleisch halb gar. (Pro. 
 Gay-rus'tay-tes Rint-fleysh hahlp gahr. Eng. Some rare roast beef.) Ge- 
 rostetes Schiveinefleisch. (Pro. Gay-rus'tay-tes Shvey' nay-fleysh. Eng. 
 Some roast pork.) Brod. (Pro. Broht. Eng. Bread.) Noch ein ivenig 
 Butter. (Pro. Noch eyn vay'nihg boot'ter. Eng. A little more but- 
 ter.) Eine Tasse Kaffee. (Pro. Ey'nay Tahs'say Calif fay. Eng. A 
 cup of coffee.) Ein Glas Wasser. (Pro. Eyn Glahs Vahs'ser. Eng. 
 A glass of water.) Ein Glas Eiswasser. (Pro. Eyn Glahs ice-vahs'ser. 
 Eng. A glass of ice. water.) Kartoffeln. (Pro. Cahr-tof'f In. Eng. 
 Some potatoes.) Eine Flasche Eothwein. (Pro. Ey'nay Flah'shay 
 Roht-veyn. Eng. A bottle of red wine.) Eins halbe Flasche Weis.?- 
 wein. (Pro. Ey'nay hahl'bay Flah'shay Veyss-veyn. Eng. A hall- 
 bottle of white wine.) Bringen Sie mir einen reinen Teller. (Pro. 
 Bring'en Zee meer ey'nen rey'nen Tel'ler. Eng. Bring me a clean 
 plate.) Ein Huhnerfricassee. (Pro. Eyn Heuh'ner-free-kahs-say.' 
 Eng. A chicken fricassee.) Zwei Kalbscarbonaden.. (Pro. Tsvy 
 Kahlps-cahr-boh-nah'den. Eng. Two veal cutlets.) GekocMes Ildm- 
 nifineisch. (Pro. Gay-koch'tes Hahm'mel-fleysch. Eng. Some boiled 
 mutton.) Zwei gebratene Eier. (Pro. Tsvy gay-brah't'iiay Ey'er.
 
 318 SHOET-TEIP GUIDE. 
 
 Eny. Two fried eggs.) Gekochten Fisch. (Pro. Gay-koch'ten Fish. 
 Eng. Some boiled fish.) Kuchen. (Pro. Koo'chen. Eng. Cake.) 
 Eine Obst Pastete. (Pro. Ey'nay Opst Pahs-tay'tay. Eng. A fruit 
 pie.) Zucker. (Pro. Tsook'ker. Eng. Sugar.) Das Salz. (Pro. 
 Dahs Sahlts. Eng. The salt.) Einen anderen Loffel. (Pro. Ey'nen 
 ahn'der'n Luffl. Eng. Another spoon.) Einen Teller, ein Messer, 
 ein Good, und eine Serviette. (Pro. Ey'nen Tel'ler, eyn Mes'ser, ey-nay 
 Gah'b'l, oont ey'nay Zer-vyet'tay. Eng. A plate, knife, fork, and 
 napkin.) Ich bitte um die Rechnung. (Pro. Ich bit'tay oom dee Kech'- 
 noong. Eng. The bill, if you please.) 
 
 Greetings. 
 
 GtttenM>rgen,mein3err. (Pro. Goo'ten Mor-gen, meyn Hayr. Eng. Good- 
 morning, sir.) Guten Abend ; gute Nacht. (Pro. Goo'ten Ah'bent : 
 goo'tay Nahcht. Eng. Good-eveniug ; good-night.) Adieu ! (Pro. 
 Ah-dyu'! Eng. Good-bye!) Avf Wiedersehn. (Pro. Owf Vee'der- 
 zayn. Eng. Farewell, till we meet again.) Ich habe die Ehre Sie zu 
 begrussen. (Pro. Ich hah'bay dee Ay 'ray Zee tsoo bay-greus'sen. 
 Eng. I have the honor to salute yon.) Erlauben Sie mir mich zu be- 
 itrlavben. (Pro. Ayj-low'ben Zee meer mich tsooh bay-oor'low-beu. 
 Eng. Permit me to take leave of yon.) Ich danke Ihntn, Madam. 
 (Pro. Ich dahnk'ay Ee'nen, Mah-dahm'. Eng. Thank yon. Madam.) 
 Ich bedanke mich tausendmal, mem Frditlein. (Pro. Ich bay-dahnk'ay 
 mich tow-zent-mahl, meyn Froy'leyn. Eng. A thousand thanks, 
 miss.) 
 
 Inquiries, etc. 
 
 Verzeihen Sie, mein fferr ! (Pro. Fair-tsey'en Zee, meyn Hayr ! Eng. 
 Pardon, sir! [always used in accosting a stranger, or apologizing for 
 any accident.]) Wotten Sie mir wohl den Weg zu die?vr Addresse nach- 
 vjeisen f (Pro. Vollen Zee meer vohl daynVehg tsoo dee'zer Ad-dres'- 
 say nahch-vey'zen 5 Eng. WU1 yon be kiiid enough to show me the 
 way to that address?) In welcher Gegend ist die Domkirche? (Pto. 
 ID vel'cher Gay'gent ist dee Dohm-keer'chay ? Eng. In what direc- 
 tion is the cathedral ?) Wie heisst diese Strode ? (Pro. Vee heyst dee'- 
 zay Strahs'say ? Eng. What is the name of this street 5) Was fur tin 
 Haus ist das? (Pro. Yahs four eyn howss ist dahs? Eng. What house 
 is that?) Ist das gegenuberlitgende Ham tin Modewaareitlayer ? 
 (Pro. Ist dahs gay'gen-eu'ber-lee'gen-day Howss eyn Moh'day-wah'- 
 ren-lah'ger? Eng. Is the house opposite a millinery warehouse?) 
 Avf icdcher Seite liegt die Borsezur Rechten Oder zur Linken? (Pro. 
 Owf vel-cher Zey'tay leehgt dee Bnr'zay: tsoor Eech'ten oh'dertsoor 
 Link-en ? Eng. On which side is the Bourse to the right or the left ?) 
 Ich mochte gern Kleider kaufen ; wot 1st der Preis f (Pro. Ich meuch'- 
 tay gern Kley'derkow'fen : vahs ist dayr Preyss? Eng. I wish to buy
 
 A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 319 
 
 some clothes ; what is the price?) Dai ist zu tlieuer. (Pro. Dahs 1st 
 tsoo toy'er. Eng. That is too clear.) 
 
 [Finding an Interpreter or Guide.] 
 
 Teh tranche einen Dolmetscher. (Pro. Ich brow'chay ey'nen Doll-met'sber. 
 Eng. I want an interpreter or guide.) Ich tranche einen Bedienten 
 urn mir die interessanten Pldtze nachzuweisen. (Pro. Ich brow'chay 
 ey'nen Bay-deen'ten, oom nicer dee in-tay-rcs-sahn'ten Plet'tsay uahch- 
 tsoo-vey'zen. Eng. I require a servant to point out to me the places 
 of interest.) Ich will einen Ditner haben ivelcher English spricht. (Pro. 
 Ich vill ey'nen Dee'ner hah'ben vel'cher Ayng'lish spricht. Eng. I re- 
 quire a valet who speaks English.) Ist Jemand hier welcher Franzo- 
 sisch spricht? (Pro. Ist Yay'mahnt heer vel'cher Frahn-tseu-zisli 
 spricht ? Eng. Is there any one here who speaks French ?) Wie xiel 
 fordern Sie mich heute zu begleiten ? (Pro. Yee feel for'dern Zee mich 
 hoy'tay tsoo bay-gley'ten? Eng. What do you ask to accompany me 
 to-day 1) 
 
 Entering, Finding Persons, etc. 
 
 Qu. (Knocking at a door.) Darf ich eintreten ? or, Erlanben Sie doss ich 
 eintreten darf? (Pro. Dahrf ich eyn-tray'ten ? or, Er-low'ben Zee 
 dabs ich eyn-tray'ten dahrf? Eng. May I come in? or, will you per- 
 mit me to enter?) ANS. Treten Sie ein! or, gewiss! (Pro. Tray 'ten 
 Zee eyn ; or, gay-viss ! Eng. Come in ! or, certainly !) Qtj. Ist Her/' 
 H. zu Hause? (Pro. Ist Hayr H. tsoo How'zay. Eng. Is Mr. H. at 
 home ?) ANS. Ja, mein Herr, Herr H. ist in seinem Zimmer. (Pro. Yah, 
 meyn Hayr, Hayr H. ist in zey'nem Tsim'mer. Eiiy. Yes, sir, Mr. H. 
 is in bis room.) Qu. Kann ich ihnsehen ? (Pro. Kfihn ich een zayh'u ? 
 Eng. Can I see him ?) Fragen Sie ihn ob er mich empfangen will ? 
 
 % (Pro. Frah'gen Zee een op ayr mich emp-fahng'en vill. Eng. Ask 
 him whether he will see me?) ANS. Nein, mein Herr, Herr II. ist 
 nicht zu, Hause. (Pro. Neyn ( meyn Hayr, Hayr H. ist nicht tsoo 
 How'zay. Eng. No, sir, Mr. II. is not at home.) Qu. Wann wird er 
 ericartet ? (Pro. Vahn virt ayr er-vahr'tet ? Eng. When do yon 
 expect him ?) Geben Sie Him meine Karte. (Pro. Gay'ben Zee eerri 
 mey'nay Cahr'tay. Eng. Give him my card.) 
 
 Language. 
 
 Sprechen Sie Deutsch ? (Pro. Spre'chen Zee Doytsh ? Eny. Do you speak 
 German?) Sprechen Sie Englisch? (Pro. Spre'chen Zee Ayng'lish ? 
 Eng. Do you speak English ?) Verstehen Sie mich f (Pro. Fer-stay'en 
 Zee mich ? Eng. Do you understand me ?) Ich verstehe Sie sehr gut. 
 (Pro. Ich fer-stay'ay Zee zayr goot. Eng. I understand you ^ery
 
 320 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 well.) IcTi rersiehe Sie nicht. (Pro. Ich fer-stay'ay Zee nicht. Eng. 
 I do not understand you.) Wie heisst das ? (Pro. Vee heysst dahs * 
 Eng. What is this called ?) Wiederholen Sie das, wenn ich bitten darf. 
 (Vee'dayr-hoh'len Zee dahs, ven ich bit'ten dahrf. Eng. Eepeat that, 
 if you please.) Ich spreche nitr wenig Deutsch ; seien Sie so gut und 
 sprechen Sie langsamer. (Pro. Ich spre'chay noor vay'nihg Doytsh ; 
 zey'en Zee zoh goot oont spre'chen Zee lahng'sah-mer. Eng. I speak 
 but little German ; be so kind as to speak more slowly.) 
 
 In Want. 
 
 Ich bin sefir arm! Gtben Sie mir ein Almosen, um Gotteswilten! (Pro. 
 Ich bin zayr ahrm ! GayT>en Zee meer eyn Ahl'mo-zen, oom Got'tes- 
 villen ! Eng. I am very poor, give me some charity for the love of 
 God!) Or,UmderheiligenJungfrauu-illen. (Pro. Oom dayr hey 'lee- 
 gen Yoong'frow vil'len. Eng. For the pake of the Blessed Virgin.) 
 Ich bin sehr hungrig. (Pro. Ich bin zayr hoong'rihg. Eng. I am very 
 hungry.) Mr ist sehr kalL (Pro. Meer ist zayr kahlt. Eng. I am 
 very cold.) Ich bin sehr durstig. (Pro. Ich bin zayr doors'-tihg. 
 Eng. I am very thirsty.) Ich habe kein Geld. (Pro. Ich hah'-bay keyn 
 Gelt. Eng. I have no money.) 
 
 In Sudden Sickness or Accident. 
 
 Ich bin krank. (Pro. Ich b;n krahnk. Eng. I am sick.) Ich bin sehr 
 Irank. (Pro. Ich bin zayr krahnk. Eng. I am very sick.) Ich habe 
 Kopfweh. (Pro. Ich hah'bay Kopf-vay. Eng. I have a headache.) 
 Ich habe mir das JSein den Arm zerbrochen. (Pro. Ich hah'bay meer 
 dahs Beyn dayn Ahrm tser-broch'en. Eng. I have broken my leg 
 my arm.) Ich bitte Sie, fiihren Sie mich gleich zu einem Arzt. (Pro. 
 Ich bit'tay Zee, fen'ren Zee mich gleych tsoo ey'nem Ahrtst. Eng. I beg 
 you to take me immediately to a physician.) Fiihren Sie mich zu 
 einem englischen Doktor. ( Pro. Feu'ren Zee mich tsoo ey'nem ayng'lish- 
 cn Doc-tor. Eng. Take me to an English doctor.)
 
 XXII. 
 
 EUKOPEAN MONEY IX AMEEICAN COIN. 
 
 two kinds of money (apart from Bank of 
 England notes, drafts, and letters of credit) are likely 
 to be carried over to Europe by Americans. These 
 are English and French gold English preferable, 
 except on going direct to France, and then quite as 
 convenient. And it so happens that the English and 
 French, extensively used all over Europe (especially 
 the French, on the Continent), are the only ones of 
 the value of which any correct idea can be briefly 
 given, though an attempt will be made to indicate 
 the worth, in dollars and cents (gold) of the more 
 common kinds of German, Italian, etc. American 
 money even American gold it is scarcely neces- 
 sary to say, is not familiarly known in Europe.] 
 
 English. 
 
 Sovereign (sold) ............................. ......... $4 83 
 
 Guinea (calculation no coin) ......... ................. 5 07 
 
 Half-Sovereign (gold) .................................. 2 41 
 
 Crown (silver) ......................................... 1 20 
 
 Half-Crown (silver) .................................... 60 
 
 Florin (silver two shillings) .......................... 40 
 
 Shilling (silver) ....................................... 23 
 
 Sixpence (silver) ....................................... 11 \ 
 
 Fourpence (silver) ..................................... 7J 
 
 Penny (copper) ......................................... 1J 
 
 Half-penny (copper) .................................... 
 
 NOTK. English Bank of England notes are equally current with English 
 gold, in France and over much of the Continent.
 
 822 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 French. 
 
 Double Napoleon (gold) $7 72 
 
 Napoleon (gold) 3 86 
 
 Half-Napoleon (gold) 1 93 
 
 Five Francs (gold or silver) 95 
 
 Franc (silver) 19 
 
 Half-Franc (silver) 9 
 
 Twenty-Centime piece (base) 3f 
 
 Two Sous (copper) 2 
 
 Sou (copper) 1 
 
 NOTE. The French franc is divided into imaginary hundredths, as the 
 American dollar into cents, and all smaller calculations are made in these 
 hundredths, or " centimes," though there is no coin to represent the unit. 
 The half-franc is of course fifty centimes ; the twenty-centime piece is one- 
 fifth of a franc; and the sou is always five centimes ; and twenty sous 
 make the franc. 
 
 Swiss. 
 
 Same in value, and nearly same in appearance, as the French Napole- 
 ons, francs, sous, centimes ; but can be readily distinguished from the 
 French coins by the Swiss cross and word " Helvetia," which they bear. 
 
 Belgian. 
 
 Francs and centimes same in value and reckoning as in France and 
 Switzerland. 
 
 German. 
 
 NOTE. There is such an li infinite variety " and abominable mixture and 
 uncertainty in the German money, that Tom Hood had no way to get out 
 of the trouble, as he crossed from one petty state to another, except 
 always to throw away his change. The tourist cannot be expected to 
 practise that costly amusement, but must experience his "little difficulty." 
 No more can be done, here, practically, than to mention a few values, with 
 the countries where the coins originate : 
 
 Five Gulden gold (Baden) $2 06 
 
 Crown silver " 110 
 
 Florin " " 40 
 
 Twenty Kreutzer base (Baden) 10 
 
 Ten Kreutzer " " 05 
 
 Double Frederick gold (Prussia) 8 00 
 
 Frederick gold " 4 00 
 
 Ten Guilders gold (Central Germany) 4 00 
 
 FiveGuilders " 200 
 
 Guilder silver 40 
 
 Guilder " (Holland) 37* 
 
 Double Ducat gold (Germany) 4 56
 
 EUROPEAN iONEY. 323 
 
 Ducat gold (Gel-many) $2 28 
 
 Tnalcr. silver (Saxony) 1 00 
 
 " " (Prussia) 70 
 
 Rix Dollar silver (Austria and Tyrol) 1 00 
 
 Florin 50 
 
 Ten Thalers gold (Brunswick) 8 00 
 
 " (Hanover) 800 
 
 Thaler silver (Brunswick or Hanover) 80 
 
 Italian. 
 
 Twenty Lira gold (Sardinia) 3 80 
 
 Ten Lira " 1 90 
 
 Five Lira silver " 95 
 
 Lira " 19 
 
 Half-Lira " " 9| 
 
 Quarter-Lira base " 4J 
 
 Lira silver (Venice larger in proportion) 17 
 
 Sequin gold (Tuscany) 2 30 
 
 Scudo gold or silver (Tuscany) 1 10 
 
 Paul silver (Tuscany larger and smaller in proportion) 11 
 
 Crazia copper " li 
 
 Quatrino " " 
 
 Ten Scudi gold (Rome) 10 00 
 
 Scudo silver or gold (Rome) 1 00 
 
 Paul silver li 10 
 
 Grosso base " 5 
 
 Baioque copper " 1 
 
 Half-Baioque copper " i 
 
 Ducato silver (Naples) 81 
 
 Piastra " " 95 
 
 Carliua " " 8J 
 
 Grano copper " a 
 
 Turkish, 
 
 Twenty Piastres 1 00 
 
 Piastre 5 
 
 Five Paras Of 
 
 28
 
 ALPHABETICAL PLACE-AND-ROUTE 
 
 I^DEX. 
 
 Alexandria to Marseilles, 31. 
 Arran (Isle of), 70. 
 Ailsa Crate, 70. 
 'Alderney (Island), T3. 
 Ayr, 99. 
 
 Ardcheanocrochan, 104. 
 Aberfoil (Clachan of), 104. 
 Abbotsford, 117. 
 
 " route to from Edinburgh, 117. 
 Ambleside, 138. 
 Alnwick Castle, 157. 
 Arques (Castle), 162. 
 Amberieux, 184. 
 Aar (river), 197. 
 Alpnach, 200. 
 Aix-la-Chapelle, 220. 
 Antwerp, 223. 
 Augsburg, 227. 
 Alps, Across the : 
 
 Mont Cenis Route, 232. 
 
 St. Bernard Route, 234. 
 
 St. Gotthard Route, 238. 
 
 Simplon Route, 241. 
 Aosta, 236. 
 Altorf, 237. 
 Andermatt, 239. 
 Arona, 242. 
 ATHENS, 289. 
 
 " to Constantinople, 290. 
 Alexandria, 294. 
 
 " to Cairo, 295. 
 
 " down the Mediterranean to 
 Malta, 296. 
 
 B 
 
 Bombay to Snez and Alexandria, 31. 
 
 Ballycotton (light). 63. 
 
 Bell Buov (Liverpool), 65. 
 
 Beachy Head, 68. 
 
 Bute (Island), 71. 
 
 Brodick, 71. 
 
 Brest, 72. 
 
 Blarney Castle, etc., 84. 
 
 Bog of Allen (The), 89. 
 
 Boyne Water, 93. 
 
 BELFAST, 93. 
 
 " to Giant's Causeway, 94. 
 Ballycastle, 94. 
 Burns Neighborhood, 100. 
 Balloch, 101. 
 Ben Lomond, 101. 
 
 " Venn, 103. 
 
 " A'an, 103. 
 
 " Ledi, 105. 
 Bannockburn, 106. 
 Ben Nevis, 109. 
 Berwick, 117, 157. 
 Bowness, 137. 
 Birmingham. 142. 
 Brighton, 152. 
 
 British Channel (Crossings), 159. 
 Bourg, 184. 
 Bellegarde. 185. 
 BERNE, 197. 
 
 " to Inierlaken, 197. 
 Bernese Oberlaud, 197. 
 Brienz, 200. 
 Brunur Pass, 200. 
 BALE, 202. 
 
 " to Strasbourg, 204. 
 BADEN-BADEN. 206. 
 
 " to Heidelberg and down 
 
 the Rhine, 210. 
 Black Forest (The), 208. 
 Brachsal, 211. 
 Bingen, 215. 
 Bonn, 218. 
 BBUSSELS, 222. 
 
 " to Antwerp, 223. 
 Bruges, 224. 
 Bregenz, 226. 
 BEBLIN, 229. 
 
 " to Hamburg, etc., 229. 
 Bellinzona, 240. 
 Brieg, 241. 
 Brescia, 251. 
 Bologna, 257. 
 Bayonne, 278. 
 Biarritz, 278. 
 Burgos, 279. 
 Beirut, 292. 
 Baalbec, 292.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 325 
 
 Cape Eace, 58. 
 Chebuctoo Head (N. S.), 59. 
 Cape Clear, 61. 
 Crookhavcn. 62. 
 Cove of Cork, 63. 
 Conigsbeg (light), 63. 
 Cowes, 67. 
 Cantire (Mull of), 70. 
 Cumbne Islands, 71. 
 Cape La Hogue, 73. 
 Cherbourg, 73. 
 Cape Levi, 73. 
 
 " Barfleur, 73. 
 
 " La Hague, 73. 
 
 " La Heve, 73. 
 CORK, 82. 
 
 " to Killarney, 84. 
 Cloyne. 84. 
 Charleville, 89. 
 Carrickfergns, 94. 
 Cushendall, 94. 
 Coleraine, 95. 
 Coilantogle Ford, 105. 
 Callandar, 105. 
 Cambuskenneth Abbey, 107. 
 Crinan Canal, 108. 
 Crianlarich, 109. 
 Caledonian Canal, 109. 
 Craigmillar Castle, 117. 
 Chester, 121. 
 Crewe, 123. 
 Coventry, 143. 
 Charlecote Hall, 148. 
 Cheltenham, 152. 
 Culoz, 185. 
 Chillon (Castle), 188. 
 Chamounix (Excursion to), 190. 
 Colmar, 204. 
 Carlsruhe, 211. 
 Coblentz, 216. 
 COLOGNE, 219. 
 
 " to Paris, Route I., 219. 
 " to Channel, Route II., 221. 
 Charleroi, 221. 
 Compeigne, 221. 
 Civita Vecchia, 262. 
 Corniche Road (The), 275. 
 Cordova, 283. 
 Cadiz, 284. 
 CONSTANTINOPLE, 290. 
 
 " to Smyrna, 291. 
 CAIRO, 295. 
 
 " Excursion to Pyramids, Mem- 
 phis, etc., 295. 
 
 D 
 
 Dnrsey Island, 60. 
 Daunt' s Rock, 62. 
 
 Dungcness, 68. 
 Dover, 68. 
 Downs (The), 68. 
 Deal, 69. 
 Dunoon, 72. 
 DUBLIN, 89. 
 
 " to Holyhead, 92. 
 
 " to Belfast, 93. 
 
 " Giants' Causeway, 93. 
 Dargle (river), 92. 
 Drogheda, 93. 
 Dundalk, 93. 
 Doon (river), 100. 
 Dumbarton Castle, 101. 
 Dunblane, 105. 
 Doune Castle, 107. 
 Dalkeith (Palace), 116. 
 Dalhousie Castle, 117. 
 Dryburgh Abbey, 117. 
 Dee (river), 121. 
 Doncaster, 156. 
 Dunbar, 158. 
 Dover to Calais, 159. 
 Dieppe, 162. 
 Dijon, 184. 
 
 Drachenfels (The). 217. 
 Dresden, 228. 
 
 " to Berlin, 229. 
 Domo d'Ossola, 242. 
 DAMASCUS, 292. 
 
 " to Jerusalem^ 293. 
 Dead Sea, 293. 
 
 E 
 
 Eddystone Lighthouse, 66. 
 EDINBURGH, 110. 
 
 " Castle, 114. 
 
 " Excursions from, 116. 
 
 " to Berwick and London, 117. 
 Eaton Hall, 123. 
 
 England to Scotland (routes), 154. 
 Ehrenbreitstein, 216. 
 
 Fastnet Rock, 61. 
 Folkestone, 68. 
 Firth of Clyde, 71 . 
 Fingal's Cave, 108. 
 Furness Abbey, 140. 
 Folkestone to Boulogne, 159. 
 Fontainebleu, 183. 
 Freybourg, 196. 
 FBANKFOKT-ON-THE-MAINE, 212. 
 
 " to Wiesbaden and May- 
 
 ence, 213. 
 Fluellen, 238. 
 Ferrara, 257. 
 FLOBENCE, 259.
 
 320 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 FLOBENCE, excursion to Vallom- 
 
 brosa, 261. 
 Fiesole, 261. 
 
 G 
 
 Great Onne's Head, 64. 
 Gosport, 07. 
 Glengall Head, 70. 
 Green ock, 72. 
 Guernsey ( Island), 73. 
 Giants' Causeway (The), 94. 
 " to Londonderry, 95. 
 GLASGOW, 97. 
 
 to Ayr, 99. 
 " to Edinburgh, by ) lm 
 
 theTrossachs, \ 
 '" to Edinburgh, byl 
 
 Oban, Caledo- \i m 
 nian Canal and f 
 Inverness, J 
 Glenflnlass, 104. 
 Grampians, 109. 
 Grasmere. 138. 
 Guy's Cliff. 145. 
 GENEVA, 185. 
 
 " to Chamounix, 190. 
 " to Berne, etc., 195. 
 Grindelwald (Glaciers), 198. 
 Geissbach (Falls). 199. 
 Ghent, 224. 
 GENOA, 274. 
 
 " to Marseilles. 275. 
 Granada, 285. 
 
 Alhambra. 285. 
 
 " toMalaga&MarseiEes, 287. 
 Gibraltar (Straits), 284. 
 
 H 
 
 Hong Kong to Bombay, 31. 
 Halifax Harbor, 59. 
 Hook Tower (Light), 63. 
 Holyhead, 64 
 Holy Isle, 71. 
 Havre, 73. 
 Howth (Hill of), 89. 
 Hawthornden, 116. 
 Hastings. 153. 
 HEIDELBERG, 211. 
 
 " to Frankfort. 212. 
 
 Hamburg, 229. 
 Herculaneum, 273. 
 
 Isle of Wight. 153. 
 Instrahull, 70. 
 Innishowen Head, 70. 
 
 Inversnaid, 102. 
 
 lona. 108. 
 
 Inverness, 109. 
 
 INTERLAKEK, 197. 
 
 to Lucerne, etc., 200. 
 
 INNSPRUCK, 226. 
 
 " to Munich, etc., 227. 
 
 Iran, 278. 
 
 Isles of Greece (Rhodes,") 
 
 Patmos, Samos. Scio, I .j^ 
 Mytilene, Tenedos, f" 
 Abydos, etc.), 
 
 Jersey (Island), 73. 
 Jungtrau (The). 197. 
 JERUSALEM, 293. 
 
 " to Jaffa. 293. 
 
 Jordan (river), 293. 
 Jaffa, 294. 
 " to Alexandria, 294. 
 
 Kinsale (Old Head), 62. 
 Kilbrauna Sound. 70. 
 Kyles of Bute, 71. 
 Kinnoul (Mull of), 70. 
 Killarney (Lakes, etc.). 85. 
 
 " to Dublin. 88.' 
 Kildare (Curragh), 89. 
 Kingstown, 89. 
 Kew, 131. 
 Kendal, 136. 
 Kenilworth, 144. 
 
 Castle, 144. 
 Kussnacht, 201. 
 Kehl, 206. 
 
 Le Have (Nova ScotiaX 59. 
 Liverpool (Nova Scotia), 59. 
 Lee (river). 63. 
 Lizard Head, 66. 
 Lamlash (harbor). 71. 
 Limerick Junction, 89. 
 Liffey (river), 91. 
 Lisburn. 93. 
 Larne, 94. 
 
 LONDONDEEBT, So. 
 
 to Belfast, 96. 
 Loch Lomond, 101. 
 Lu#s. 102. 
 Loch Arklett, 102. 
 
 " Katrine, 102. 
 
 " Achray. 104. 
 
 " Vennochar, 104.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 327 
 
 Lanrick Mead, 104. 
 Leith, 107. 
 Loch Linnhe, 109. 
 " Lochy, 109, 
 " Ness, 109. 
 LIVERPOOL, 118. 
 
 " to Cumberland Lakes, 136. 
 
 " to London, 123. 
 
 " to Chester, 121. 
 
 " to Shakspeare Neighbor- 
 hoods, 141. 
 
 " to Birmingham. 141. 
 
 " to Coventry, 141. 
 
 " to Manchester and Shef- 
 field, 150. 
 
 " to Glasgow, 155. 
 
 " to Edinburgh, 153. 
 
 " Docks, 119. 
 LONDON, 123. 
 
 " to Paris, 155. 
 
 " to Edinburgh, 155. 
 
 " Tower of, 127. 
 
 " Excursions from, 134. 
 Lancaster, 136. 
 Leamington, 149. 
 Llandudno, 153. 
 Lausanne, 195. 
 Lauterbrunnen (Fall), 198. 
 Lake of Brienz, 199. 
 LUCERNE (and Lake). 200. 
 
 " to the Rhigi, 201. 
 
 " to Bale, 202. 
 Liege, 220. 
 Lille, 225. 
 Liddes, 234. 
 
 Lake of the Canton Uri, 238. 
 Lake Maggiore, 246. 
 " Como, 249. 
 " Garda, 251. 
 Lucca, 261. 
 Leghorn, 262. 
 LYONS, 276. 
 
 " to Geneva, Paris, etc., 277. 
 
 M 
 
 Mizen Head, 62. 
 
 Mine Head (liarht), 63. 
 
 Margate, 69, 153. 
 
 Malta Head, 70. 
 
 Moville, 70. 
 
 MaUow, 85. 
 
 Mucross Abbey, 87. 
 
 Melrose Abbey, 117. 
 
 Manchester, 150. 
 
 Marston Moor, 156. 
 
 Macon, 184. 
 
 Mont Blanc. 185. 186, 189, 190-195. 
 
 Martigny, 191, 234. 
 
 Mayence, 213. 
 
 Munich 227. 
 
 Mont Cenis, 233. 
 
 " Tunnel, 233. 
 
 Magadino, 246. 
 MILAN, 246. 
 
 " Duomo, 247. 
 Mantua, 253. 
 MABSELLLES, 275. 
 
 to Toulon, Paris, etc., 276. 
 MADRID, 280. 
 
 " Excursion to Escorial, 282. 
 " to Cordova, 283. 
 Malaga, 285. 
 
 " to Granada, 285. 
 Memphis. 295. 
 Malta, 296. 
 
 ' to Marseilles, 296. 
 
 New York to Panama, 30. 
 Needles (The), 67. 
 North Foreland (The), 69. 
 Nore (The), 69. 
 Naas, 89. 
 Newry, 93. 
 
 Newbattle Abbey. 117. 
 Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 157. 
 Newhaven to Dieppe, 159. 
 Newhaus, 197. 
 Namur, 221. 
 Nuremberg. 227. 
 Novara, 246. 
 NAPLES, 270. 
 
 " excursion to Pompeii and 
 Herculaneum, 273. 
 
 " excursion to Vesuvius, 272. 
 
 " Bay of, 272. 
 
 " to Genoa, 274. 
 Nice, 275. 
 Nile (river), 295. 
 
 Oban, 108. 
 Oxenholme, 136, 
 Ostend, 225. 
 
 Panama to San Francisco, 
 Point de Galle, 31. 
 Point Lynas, 64. 
 Portland Bill, 67. 
 Portsmouth, 67. 
 Portarlington, 89. 
 Portrush, 95. 
 Paisley, 99. 
 Preston, 136. 
 Peterborough, 156.
 
 328 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PABIS, 165. 
 
 " to Geneva. 183. 
 Pilatu8 (Mont), 200. 
 Peschiera, 251. 
 Padua, 254. 
 Pistoja, 258. 
 Pisa, 261. 
 Pompeii, 273. 
 Pyramids (The), 295. 
 
 Q 
 
 Queenstown (harbor), 62. 
 Queenstown, 81. 
 
 . R 
 
 Roche's Point, 62. 
 
 Ramsgate, 69, 153. 
 
 Rathlfn Island, 70. 
 
 Rosslyn (Castle), 116. 
 
 Rugby, 149. 
 
 Rydal Mount, 139. 
 
 Rhyl, 153. 
 
 Rouen, 163. 
 
 Rhone (river and valley), 184. 
 
 Romont, 196. 
 
 Rhigi (The), 201, 202. 
 
 Rastadt, 211. 
 
 Rhine (Down the), 214. 
 
 Rolandseck, 217. 
 
 ROME, 262. 
 
 " to Naples, etc., 270. 
 
 S 
 
 San Francisco to Yokohama 
 
 Hong Kong. 31. 
 Sambro Head (N. S.), 59. 
 Skellig Rocks, 60. 
 Snowdon, 64. 
 Skerries, 64. 
 Scilly Rocks, 66. 
 St. Agnes, 66. 
 Start Point, 67. 
 St. Alban's Head, 67. 
 Solent (river), 67. 
 Spithead, 67. 
 Southampton, 68. 
 St. Catharine's, 68. 
 South Foreland (The), 68. 
 Sanda Island, 70. 
 Stronaclachar, 103. 
 STIRLING, 105. 
 
 " Castle, 105. 
 
 " Carsc, 106. 
 Staffa, 108. 
 Stafford, 123. 
 
 and 
 
 Shakspeare Neighborhoods of War- 
 wickshire, route to, 140. 
 
 Stratford-on-Avon, 147. 
 
 Sheffield, 150. 
 
 Scarborough, 152. 
 
 Shields, 157. 
 
 Seine (river), 166. 
 
 St. Cloud, 178. 
 
 Sevres, 178. 
 
 St. Denis, 181. 
 
 Sallanches, 195. 
 
 Scherlingen-Thnn, 197. 
 
 STBASBOURG, 204. 
 
 Cathedral, 204. 
 " to Baden-Baden, 206. 
 
 St. Michel, 232. 
 
 Susa, 233. 
 
 St. Remy, 234. 
 
 St. Bernard Route. 234. 
 " Hospice, 235. 
 
 St. Gotthard Route, 238. 
 ' Hospice. 239. 
 
 Simplon Pass and Route, 241. 
 " Hospice, 242. 
 
 Sion, 241. 
 
 Seville. 283. 
 
 Smyrna, 291. 
 
 " to Beirut (Syria), 292. 
 
 Sphynx (The), 295. 
 
 T 
 
 Tuskar (light), 63. 
 Tory Island, 70. 
 Tarbet, 102. 
 Trossachs (The), 103. 
 Turk (Brigg of), 104. 
 Tonnerre, 184. 
 TUBIN, 244. 
 Toulon, 276. 
 Trieste, 288. 
 
 " to Athens, etc., 289. 
 Tangier, 285. 
 
 U 
 
 TTshant, 72. 
 TJnterseen, 197. 
 
 Versailles, 178. 
 Valley of the Rhone, 184. 
 Villeueuve, 191. 
 VEBONA, 252. 
 
 " Excursion to Mantua, 253. 
 Vicenza, 254. 
 VENICE, 254. 
 
 " to Florence, Rome, etc., 257.
 
 IXDEX. 
 
 329 
 
 Vesuvius (lit.), 272. 
 Valladolid, 280. 
 
 W 
 
 Wolverhampton, 142. 
 Warwick, 146. 
 
 Castle, 140. 
 Wengern Alp, 199. 
 Wesgis, 202. 
 Wcisbaden. 213. 
 Waterloo (Field of), 222. 
 
 Wicklow Mountains, 64. 
 
 Windsor Castle, 130. 
 
 Windermere Lakes, 135. 
 
 ' route to, 133. Y 
 
 " to Ftirness Abbey, 139. ! York, 150. 
 
 Wigan, 136. " Minster, 156.
 
 REMINDERS FOR EUROPEAN RAMBLERS. 
 
 PN this department, in subsequent years as well as the present, nothing 
 will be alluded to in any other words than those of the strictest truth, 
 just as nothing whatever will be taken, in the "announcement" depart- 
 ment to which it refers, having the slightest shade of impropriety or that 
 does not commend itself to the best judgment of travellers, when abroad, 
 or after their return to America. It is the intention of the author aud pub- 
 lishers, in later editions, to call attention to such hotels and mercantile 
 houses in the leadtng European cities and at the great European watering- 
 places, as manifest at once their desire to be put more prominently before 
 the body of American tourists, and their fitness to fill the places thus as- 
 sumed. For the present year, and pending necessary investigations, the 
 brief references here made are exclusively to "things at home."] 
 
 In an early paper of the " Short-Trip Guide," 
 some reference was made to the fact that Americans, 
 paying first visits to Europe, would not find every- 
 thing better than their own ; and the few words fol- 
 lowing are to be devoted to citing a few of the in- 
 stances to which attention has been specially called, 
 and which the Xew World, where it is not linked 
 with the Old, certainly stands no whit behind it. 
 
 On no part of the globe, for instance, can the 
 tourist expect to find hotels supplying both splendor 
 and comfort, to a greater degree than the best of 
 those of New York and some of the other leading 
 American cities. They have long been creditable 
 wonders, in the estimation of travellers and the 
 pencillings of writers. 
 
 Of course first among them, as the down-town 
 New York hotel that the people would no more allow 
 to be moved than the City Hall, stands the noble old 
 ASTOK HOUSE, its massive granite outside as com-
 
 REMINDERS, ETC. 331 
 
 manding as ever, and the unbounded extent of the 
 interior just thoroughly refitted with all the luxury 
 known to modern art ; while its location opposite 
 the Park and the new Post Office, at the city-centre, 
 as well as the centre of business and the termini of 
 nearly all the lines of cars in Xew York, must com- 
 bine with the life-long reputation of Col. Charles A. 
 Stetson and his sons, Alex. McC. and P. Recldington, 
 to keep it for many a long year at the head of the 
 hotels of the Western Continent and make its repu- 
 tation as enduring as its material and architecture. 
 Closely linked with this is the splendid new ST. 
 JAMES, on Franklin Square, Boston, just opened un- 
 der the management of Mr. J. P. M. Stetson, and 
 admitted to be, in every detail, the very perfection 
 of beauty as a building, without and within, and of 
 liberal taste in arrangement and conveniences for the 
 comfort of guests ; while still a third, the STETSOX 
 HOUSE, Long Branch (Xew Jersey), supplies the 
 most elegant building on the whole coast, the most 
 complete accommodations shown- at any American 
 seaside watering-place, and yet one more proof, in 
 the management of Mr. Charles A. Stetson, Jr., that 
 there is not one of this able family but knows " how 
 to keep a hotel." Quite the equal of the Astor and 
 its dependencies in importance and popular favor, 
 too, the tourist will remember the splendid up-town 
 hotel, the EVERETT HOUSE, with its unequalled loca- 
 tion in full front on Union Square, Xew York ; its 
 proximity to all the more aristocratic places of amuse- 
 ment ; the magnificence of its unusually large suites 
 of rooms, in which not a potentate of Europe would
 
 332 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 
 
 not think himself honored in being accommodated : 
 
 O 7 
 
 the perfection of its every service ; and last, but by 
 no means least, the air of cheerful and elegant com- 
 fort which Mr. Borrows and his capable assistants 
 have the faculty of throwing round any house under 
 their management. Nothing beyond these houses 
 (and some of the others which we may have occa- 
 sion to characterize in our next issue) can be found 
 in Europe ; and seldom are they even approached. 
 
 Among the attractions which the tourist will 
 find abroad, will of course be music. But he will 
 not be long in remembering, listening to it, say in 
 Paris, that a firm of American piano-manufacturers, 
 the Messrs. STEEXWAY, won the first prize over all 
 European and American competitors, at the Great 
 French Exposition, after receiving the applause of 
 the finest musicians of the Old World and delighting 
 uncounted thousands with the power and sweetness 
 of their instruments, and stand, to-day, confessedly 
 at the head of that difficult branch of constructive 
 art, in the whole world. He will see billiards played ; 
 but he will not be likely to ignore the great masters 
 of the cue whom he has left behind in America, and 
 especially Michael JPhelan, the " Father of Billiards," 
 in the elevation which he has been the means of 
 giving to that most excellent and gentlemanlike 
 amusement, and the benefactor to the whole billiard- 
 world which he has become, in supplying, in con- 
 junction with his practical partner, Mr. Collender, the 
 STANDARD AMERICAN BILLIARD TABLE, matchless on 
 either continent and indispensable wherever amuse- 
 ment has risen to the dignity of an art.
 
 REMINDERS, ETC. 333 
 
 The tourist will deal with European bankers, 
 wisely taking a hint already given and carrying over 
 his funds in drafts or letters of credit, issued by some 
 one or more of t the almost royal houses in finance, 
 bearing the honored names of DUNCAN, SHERMAN & 
 Co., of Pine and. Nassau Streets, who have supplied 
 exchange, and courteous dealing in effecting it, to 
 half the travelling generation ; BROWN BROTHERS 
 & Co., of 59 Wall Street, whose very title suggests 
 Parliament, British solidity married to American 
 thrift, and the Bank of England ; JAMES G. KING'S 
 SONS, of 54 William Street, their name, like their 
 reputation, one that the nation has delighted to 
 honor; or JOHN MUNROE & Co., of No. 8 Wall 
 Street, who have not only effected exchange for 
 thousand upon thousand of Europe-bound Ameri- 
 cans, but laid them under lasting obligations by care 
 of their letters, free-reading-rooms and general cour- 
 tesy, at their corresponding banking-house at No. 7 
 Rue Scribe, Paris. 
 
 He will look upon great enterprizes in the Old 
 World ; but he must not expect to find any one of 
 them not even the work of tunnelling the Alps or 
 opening the Suez Canal, at all to be compared with 
 that which the UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD COMPANY 
 are now so rapidly pushing forward to completion, 
 with almost a certainty of finishing it to the Pacific 
 by 1870, and the certainties of rich return for invest- 
 ments, to those who purchase their bonds, such as no 
 other enterprize of the age has dreamed of offering. 
 
 He will probably visit some of the great Spa- 
 springs of Europe Kissingen, or Baden, or Vichy,
 
 334 SHORT-TEIP GUIDE. 
 
 and drink the health-giving waters ; but in the midst 
 of all the gaieties there he will remember the Mis- 
 SISQUOI SPKIJSTG, far away in the Green Mountains of 
 American Vermont, and witli agenpies for the sale 
 of its waters now established everywhere, doing 
 every day, in the cure of Cancer, Kidney-diseases, 
 and many others before held incurable, a work as- 
 tounding the doctors and electrifying the world. 
 
 Our tourist, acting upon a previous hint, may 
 and should insure his life before leaving America. 
 Whether or not he selects the EQUITABLE LIFE As- 
 SUBANCE SOCIETY OF THE UNITED STATES, 92 Broad- 
 way, New York, as the medium of that great jus- 
 tice to himself and his family one thing is sure, 
 that he will not find, even in life-assuring England, 
 the parallel of that nobly-managed purely-mutual 
 institution, growing faster, and ameliorating the 
 condition of more families, than any other of its 
 class in existence. 
 
 He may need jewelry, and fancy, in advance, that 
 he can find it in richer profusion abroad than at 
 home. But if, before he leaves, he should chance to 
 encounter the griffin of C. A. STEVENS, the jeweller 
 par excellence, of New York Fourteenth St. (a cut of 
 which wonderful animal has been kindly loaned to 
 make this paragraph clearer), then he may find him- 
 self amid such a profusion of all that is rich, rare 
 and tasteful, in jewelry, bijouterie, plate and articles 
 of vertu, as scarcely to allow him to go to Paris or 
 Geneva with many desires unfilled. 
 
 Finally, it scarcely matters on what steamer he 
 may take his way to Europe, he is not likely to es-
 
 REMINDERS, ETC. 335 
 
 cape admiring his handsome face in a mirror supplied 
 by that prince of dealers in looking-glasses, picture- 
 frames, chronics and other pictures, JOHIST S. WIL- 
 LAED, of Canal* Street, who not only manufactures 
 and supplies all that is elegant and excellent in his 
 line, but has (and deserves) a preemption on all the 
 vessels that carry vain and mirror-gazing humanity 
 over the waters of the world. 
 
 29 
 
 THE EXD.
 
 SHORT- TRIP a HIDE. ANNO UNGEMENTS. 
 
 GUIDE-BOOKS FOR TRAVELLERS, 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 D. APPLE TON fcf CO. 
 
 Appletons' Illustrated Railway and 
 Steam Navigation Guide, 
 
 Containing the Time-Tables of the Railways of the United States and 
 the Canadas. Also, One Hundred Railway Maps, together with 
 Monthly Account of Railways and their Progress, and Anecdotes 
 and Incidents of Travel, etc., etc. 
 
 u. 
 
 Appletons' Hand-Book of Ameri- 
 can Travel, 
 
 Containing a Full Description of the Principal Cities, Towns, and Places 
 of Interest, together with the Routes of Travel and Leading Hotels 
 throughout the United States and British Provinces. I vol., 1 2mo. 
 Illustrated with Maps 4.00 
 
 HI. 
 
 Appletons' Northern Hand-Book 
 of Travel, 
 
 Containing an Account of the Principal Watering Places and Summer 
 Resorts, including Niagara, Trenton Falls, Lake Superior, etc. 
 Illustrated with Maps. I vol., 1 2mo 2.00 
 
 IV. 
 
 Appletons' Southern Hand-Book 
 of Travel, 
 
 Containing a Complete Account of all the Cities and Towns in the 
 Southern States. Illustrated with Maps. I vol., I2mo. . .$2.00 
 a
 
 SHORT- TRIP G UIDE.ANNO UNCEMENTS. 
 
 APPLETONS' 
 
 (SO-CALLED) 
 
 WORKS OF CHARLES DICKENS. 
 
 Now Complete, in 18 Vols. Paper Covers. Price, $5.00. 
 
 LIST OF THE WORKS. 
 
 Oliver Twist 172 pp. . 25 cts. 
 
 American Notes 104 " 15 " 
 
 Dombey and Son 336 " 35 " 
 
 Martin Chuzzlewit. 341 " 35 " 
 
 Our Mutual Friend 340 " 35 " 
 
 Christmas Stories 163 " 25 " 
 
 Tale of Two Cities 144 " 20 " 
 
 Hard Times, and Addi- 
 tional Christmas Sto- 
 ries 202 " 25 " 
 
 Nicholas Nickleby 338 " 33 " 
 
 Bleak House 352 pp.. 35 cts. 
 
 Little Dorrit 343 
 
 Pickwick Papers 326 
 
 David Copperfield 351 
 
 Barnaby Rudge 257 
 
 Old Curiosity Shop 221 
 
 Great Expectations 183 
 
 Sketches 194 
 
 Uncommercial Traveller, 
 
 Pictures of Italy, and 
 
 Reprinted Pieces 300 
 
 LIBRARY EDITION OF 
 
 CHARLES DICKENS'S WORKS, 
 
 To be completed in Six Volumes, with Thirty-two Illustrations. 
 Price, fyi.-jsfer vol., or $10.50 the set. 
 
 D. APPLFTON & Co., Publishers, New York.
 
 SHORT- TRIP G UIDE.ANNO UNCEMENTS. 
 
 APPLETONS' EDITION 
 
 WAVERLEY NOVELS, 
 
 NOW PUBLISHING. 
 
 From New Stereotype Plates, uniform with the New Edition of Dickens, con- 
 taining all the Notes of the Author, and printed front the 
 latest edition of the A uthorized Text. 
 
 TO BE COMPLETED IN TWENTY-FIVE VOLUMES. 
 Price, Twenty-five Cents each. 
 
 Printed on fine white paper, clear type, and convenient in size. 
 PRONOUNCED "A MIRACLE OF CHEAPNESS." 
 
 ORDER OF ISSUE. 
 
 14. FORTUNES OF NIGEL. 
 
 15. PEVERIL OF THE PEAK. 
 
 16. QUENTIN DURWARD. 
 
 17. ST. RONAN'S WELL. 
 
 18. REDGAUXTLET. 
 
 19. THE BETROTHED, and HIGHLAND 
 
 WIDOW. 
 
 20. THE TALISMAN. 
 
 21. WOODSTOCK. 
 
 22. FAIR MAID OF PERTH. 
 
 23. ANNE OF GEIERSTEIN. 
 
 24. COUNT ROBERT OF PARIS. 
 
 25. THE SURGEON'S DAUGHTER. 
 
 1. WAVERLEY. 
 S. IVANHOE. 
 
 3. KENILWORTH. 
 
 4. GUY MANNERING. 
 
 5. ANTIQUARY. 
 
 6. ROB ROY. 
 
 7. OLD MORTALITY. 
 
 8. THE BLACK DWARF, and A LEGEND 
 
 OF MONTROSE. 
 
 9. BRIDE OF LAMMERMOOR. 
 
 10. HEART OF MID-LOTHIAN. 
 
 11. THE MONASTERY. 
 1A THE ABBOT. 
 
 13. THE PIRATE. 
 
 The first volume, "Waverley," issued on February 22, 1868. A volume 
 will be published about once a fortnight, until the Series is completed. Any 
 volume mailed, post free, on receipt of price. 
 
 For SIX DOLLARS we will send by mail, prepaid, as fast as published, the 
 entire set of WAVERLEY NOVELS, and a copy of a new STEEL-PLATE PORTRAIT 
 OF SIR WALTER SCOTT, suitable for framing. 
 
 For TEN DOLLARS we will send by mail, prepaid, a set of DICKENS (in 
 uniform style), 18 volumes, and WAVERLEY, 25 volumes. The cheapest Ten 
 Dollars' worth to be found in the whole range of Literature. Forty-three vol- 
 umes for ten dollars ! 
 
 Any FIFTY VOLUMES, selected at pleasure, will be sent to one address (by 
 express at the expense of the purchaser) on receipt of the retail price, less 20 
 per cent. 
 
 Any ONE HUNDRED VOLUMES, selected at pleasure, will be sent to one ad- 
 dress (by express at the expense of the purchaser) on receipt of the retail price, 
 less 25 per cent. 
 
 D. APPLETON & CO., 
 
 90, 92 & 94 GRAND STREET.
 
 SHORT- TRIP G UIDE.ANNO UNCEMENTS. 
 
 1868. CUNARD LINE. 1868. 
 
 BRITISH AND NORTH AMERICAN 
 
 ROYAL MAIL STEAMSHIPS, 
 
 Between New York and Liverpool, 
 
 CALLING AT CORK HARBOR. 
 
 MAIL STEAMERS, CARRYING NO EMIGRANTS. 
 
 SCOTIA, RUSSIA, CUBA, 
 
 PERSIA, JAVA, CHINA, 
 
 AUSTRALASIAN. 
 
 From New York, every Wednesday. 
 
 From Liverpool, every Saturday. 
 
 RATES OF PASSAGE. 
 
 From New York to Liverpool, Cabin 130.00 gold. 
 
 " " Second Cabin 80.00 " 
 
 " to Paris, Cabin 145.00 " 
 
 From Liverpool to New York, Cabin 26. 
 
 " " Second Cabin 18. 
 
 Extra Steamers, carrying First and Third Class. 
 
 SIBERIA, PALMYRA, TRIPOLI, 
 
 SAMARIA, TARIFA, ALEPPO, 
 
 MALTA, MARATHON, MOROCCO, 
 
 HECLA, KEDAR, SIDON, 
 
 OLYMPUS. 
 
 From New York, every Thursday. 
 
 From Liverpool, every Tuesday. 
 
 RATES OF PASSAGE. 
 
 From New York to Liverpool, Cabin $80.00 gold. 
 
 From Liverpool to New York, Cabin 15, 17, and 21 guineas. 
 
 For freight or passage, apply to 
 
 IVES G. BATES, Boston ; D. & C. MAC!VER, Queenstown ; 
 D. & C. MAC!VER, Liverpool. 
 
 E. CUNARD, 
 
 4 BOWLING GREEN & in BROADWAY, N. Y.
 
 SHORT- TRIP G UIDE.ANNO UN CEMENTS. 
 
 1868. 
 
 SXEJMERS TO FRANCE DIRECT, 
 
 Transit by Railroad, and crossing the English 
 Channel avoided. 
 
 THE 
 
 General Transatlantic Co.'s 
 
 FIRST-CLASS STEAMSHIPS, 
 
 Under Government Contract to carry the Mails between 
 
 NEW YORK AND HAVRE, 
 
 CALLING AT BREST EACH WAY. 
 
 Sailing from New York every alternate Saturday. 
 
 From Havre every alternate Thursday, and Brest, 
 
 Saturday. 
 
 PEREIRE. VILLE DE PARIS. 
 
 NAPOLEON III. EUROPE. 
 
 ST. LAURENT. 
 
 LAFAYETTE. 
 
 LAFAYETTE. 
 WASHINGTON. 
 
 The Steamers of this Line do not carry Steerage 
 
 Passengers. 
 MEDICAL ATTENDANCE FREE OF CHARGE. 
 
 For Freight or Passage, apply to 
 
 GEORGE MACKENZIE, Agent, 
 
 58 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 
 
 At PARIS, 12 Boulevard des Capucines (Grand Hotel). 
 
 At HAVRE, Messrs. WM. ISELIN & Co. 
 
 At BREST, Messrs. KERJEGU & VILLEFERON. 
 
 The Company's Wharf at New York is at the foot of Mor- 
 ton Street, Pier No. 50, North River.
 
 SHORT- TRIP G UIDRANNO UNGEMENTS. 
 
 NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL, 
 
 INMAN LINE. 
 
 THE LIVERPOOL, NEW YORK AND PHILADELPHIA 
 STEAMSHIP COMPANY 
 
 Will dispatch the following splendid full-powered Clyde-built Steam- 
 ships, from New York for Liverpool, and 
 all Parts of Europe, 
 
 Every Saturday, at i P. M., from 
 Pier 45, N. R., 
 
 Carrying the British and United States Mails. 
 
 CITY OF PARIS Capt. Kennedy. 
 
 ANTWERP " Mirehouse. 
 
 LONDON " Brooks. 
 
 BOSTON " Roskell. 
 
 BALTIMORE " Leitch. 
 
 BROOKLYN (building) 
 
 HALIFAX BRANCH. 
 
 For Halifax, N. S., and Liverpool, every Alternate 
 Monday. 
 
 Carrying the British and United States Mails. 
 
 CITY OF NEW YORK Capt. Tibbits. 
 
 " WASHINGTON " Halcrow. 
 
 ETNA . " Bridinnan. 
 
 RATES OF PASSAGE. 
 
 To Liverpool $100 gold. 
 
 "Halifax 20 " 
 
 From Liverpool, $75, $85, |105,gold. 
 A reduction of ten per cent, allowed 
 on return tickets. 
 
 JOHN G. DALE, Agent, 
 
 No. 15 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 
 PHILADELPHIA OFFICE, 411 CHESTNUT STREET.
 
 SEOET- TRIP UIDE-.ANNO UN CEMENTS. 
 THE 
 
 National Steamship Company 
 
 (LIMITED) 
 Dispatch the following Splendid and Commodious Ships 
 
 of their Line, 
 FROM NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL, 
 
 CALLING AT CORK HARBOR, 
 
 EVERY SATURDAY, 
 
 From the Company's Wharf, Pier 47, North River. 
 
 FRANCE Capt. Grace. 
 
 ENGLAND Capt. Thompson. 
 
 THE QUEEN Capt. Grogan. 
 
 DENMARK Capt. Thomson. 
 
 HELVETIA Capt. Cutting. 
 
 ERIN Capt. Hall. 
 
 PENNSYLVANIA Capt. Lewis. 
 
 VIRGINIA. Capt. Prowse. 
 
 LOUISIANA Capt. Webster. 
 
 Rates of Passage, payable in U. S. Currency. 
 
 To Liverpool or Queenstown SIOG 
 
 London Iio 
 
 Hamburg 125 
 
 Bremen 135 
 
 Antwerp . 125 
 
 Havre 125 
 
 Paris 125 
 
 Tickets to Liverpool and Return 180 
 
 Prepaid Cabin Tickets from Liverpool or Queenstown 90 
 
 For further information, apply to 
 
 F. W. J. HURST, Manager, 
 
 57 BROADWAY. 
 Q
 
 SHORT- TRIP G UIDE.ANNO UN CEMENTS. 
 
 New York and Liverpool Steamers, 
 
 LIVERPOOL AND GREAT WESTERN 
 STEAM COMPANY 
 
 Dispatch the following New First-class, Full-power Steamships, sailing 
 as follows : 
 
 FROM LIVERPOOL ON TUESDAYS. 
 
 FROM NEW YORK ON WEDNESDAYS. 
 
 COLORADO R. C. Cutting 3,015 tons. 
 
 MINNESOTA Jas. Price 2,965 " 
 
 MANHATTAN J. A. Williams 2,965 " 
 
 NEBRASKA Jas. Guard 3,392 " 
 
 NEVADA 3,000 " 
 
 IDAHO 3,000 " 
 
 STATE-ROOMS LARGE AND WELD VENTILATED. 
 
 STATE-ROOMS AND SALOONS ALL ON DECK. 
 
 AGENTS. 
 
 GUION & Co Liverpool. 
 
 J. M. CURRIE Paris and Havre. 
 
 A. S. PETRIE & Co London. 
 
 WILLIAMS & GUION, 
 
 71 WALL STREET, NEW YORK. 
 h
 
 SHORT- TRIP G UIDKANNO UNOEMENTS. 
 
 NORTH GERMAN LLOYD. 
 
 STEAM BETWEEN 
 
 NEW YORK AND BREMEN, 
 
 VIA SOUTHAMPTON. 
 The Screw Steamers of the North German Lloyd 
 
 AMERICA Capt. G. Ernst. ! UNION. . . .Capt. H. J. Von San ten. 
 
 NEW YORK Capt. F. Dreyer. i WESER Capt. G. Wenke. 
 
 HERMANN.... Capt. W. H. Wenke. ! RHEIN(bnilding).Capt.J. C.Meyer. 
 HANSA. . . .Capt. K. V. Oterendorp. I MAIN (building. 
 
 BREMEN. .Capt. H. A. F.Neynaber. 
 
 DONAU (building). 
 
 DEUTSCHLAND.Capt. H. Weasels. 
 
 Run regularly between New York, Bremen, and Southampton. 
 
 Carrying the United States, British, and German Mails. 
 
 From Bremen, every Saturday. From Southampton, every Tuesday. 
 
 From New York, every Thursday. 
 
 PRICE OF PASSAGE. 
 
 From Ne-iv York to Bremen, London, Havre and Southampton. 
 ' First Cabin, 5 1 20.00; Second Cabin, $72.00; Steerage, $36.00. 
 
 From Bremen, London, Havre or Southampton, to Neiv York. 
 First Cabin, $120.00; Second Cabin, $72.00; Steerage, $40.00. 
 
 Price of Passage payable in Gold. 
 This Company also dispatches regularly, on the first of each month, 
 
 FROM BREMEN AND BALTIMORE, 
 
 Via Southampton, 
 
 The new first-class Steamships, 
 
 BALTIMORE Capt. Vockler. [BERLIN Capt. Undntsch. 
 
 Price of Passage from Baltimore to Bremen, Southampton, London, 
 or Havre: Cabin, $90; Steerage, $36. From Bremen, Southampton, 
 London or Havre, to Baltimore : Cabin, $90 ; Steerage, $40. Payable 
 in gold. " 
 
 The above vessela have been constructed in the most approved manner ; 
 they are of 3,000 tons, and 700 horse-power each, and are commanded by men 
 of character and experience, who will make every exertion to promote the 
 comfort and convenience of passengers. They touch at Southampton, on 
 the outward trip, for the purpose of landing passengers for England and 
 France. 
 
 These vessels take freight to London and Hull, for which through bills 
 of lading are signed. 
 
 An experienced surgeon is attached to each vessel. 
 
 All letters must pass through the post-office. 
 
 3F~ Specie taken to Havre, Southampton, and Bremen, at the lowest 
 rates. For further particulars, apply to 
 
 The NORTH GERMAN LLOYD, Bremen ; OELRICHS & Co., 
 New York; A. SCHUMACHER & Co., Baltimore; 
 KELLER, WALLIS & POSTLETHWAITE, Southampton ; 
 PHILLIPPS, GRAVES, PHILLIPPS & Co., London: 
 LHERBETTE, KANE & Co., Paris and Havre.
 
 SHORT- TRIP G HIDE. ANNO UN CEMENTS. 
 
 Anchor Line of Steamships 
 
 CALLING AT MOVILLE, LONDONDERRY, 
 
 To Land and Embark Passengers. 
 
 The full-powered Clyde-built Steamships 
 
 Steamer. Captain. Steamer. Captain. 
 
 EUROPA J. Craig. \ IOWA J. Hedderwick. 
 
 COLUMBIA.. G. Carnaghan. 
 HIBERNIA. . .R. D. Munro. 
 CALEDONIA. . J. Macdonald. 
 
 BRITANNIA J. Laird. 
 
 UNITED KINGDOM. . 
 
 J. Donaldson. 
 
 CAMBRIA (building). 
 
 Sail from Pier 20, N. R., New York, 
 
 Every Saturday, at Noon. 
 
 RATES OF PASSAGE, PAYABLE IN CURRENCY. 
 
 From New York to Cabins. Bound Trip. Interm. Steer. 
 
 GLASGOW or DERRY. .$90 and $75. .$160 $35 $30 
 
 85.. 180.... 40.... 35 
 95.. 200.... 42.... 37 
 
 95.. 200 42 37 
 
 95.. 200.... 42.... 37 
 95.. 200.... 42.... 37 
 
 LONDON via LEITH. . . 100 
 HAVRE " " no 
 HAMBURG " no 
 ROTTERDAM " no 
 ANTWERP " no 
 
 Cabin Passengers Booked to and from 'Liverpool at same 
 rates as Glasgow. 
 
 Children I to 12 years, Half Fare. Infants Free. 
 Pre-pajd Certificates from Glasgow or Derry Cabins, $90 
 
 and $75 ; Intermediate, $47; Steerage, $37. 
 
 From Hamburg, Havre, Antwerp, Rotterdam, etc. 
 
 Cabins, qjlio and $95 ; Intermediate, $55 ; 
 
 Steerage, $45. 
 
 Children between One and Twelve Years Half Fare. 
 
 Infants under One Year $5.00. 
 
 H ANDYSIDE & HENDERSON, 5 1 Union Street, Glasgow, or 
 96^ Foyle Street, Londonderry, or 
 
 HENDERSON BROTHERS, Agents, 
 
 6 BOWLING GREEN, NEW YORK.
 
 SHORT- TRIP G UIDE.ANNO UNCEXEXTS. 
 
 Pacific Mail-Steamship Company's 
 
 THROUGH U. S. MAIL LINE 
 
 TO 
 
 California, Japan and China. 
 
 Leave NEW YORK from Pier 42, North River, ist, g\h, 
 1 6th and 24th days of each month (except when either day 
 falls on Sunday, then on the preceding Saturday), closely 
 connecting via Panama Railroad with Steamers from 
 Panama for San Francisco. Schedule time, 22 days. 
 
 The Steamer leaving New York on the 9th of each 
 month will closely connect with a steamer of the CHINA 
 LINE to leave SAN FRANCISCO for YOKOHAMA the SEC- 
 OND day after the arrival of the Panama Steamer ; except 
 when the designated day falls on Sunday, then on the FOL- 
 LOWING DAY. 
 
 PROPOSED DEPARTURES FROM SAN FRANCISCO, 1868. 
 
 " JAPAN," August 3. 
 " CHINA," September I. 
 
 " GREAT REPUBLIC," Oct. 3. 
 " JAPAN," November 2. 
 
 " CHINA," December 3. 
 
 The same steamer will leave YOKOHAMA two days after 
 arrival, for HONG KONG. 
 
 The SHANGHAE BRANCH Steamer will leave Yokohama 
 the day after the arrival of the main Steamer from San 
 Francisco, and will touch at the Inland Seaports and 
 Nagasaki. 
 
 THROUGH TICKETS furnished to Ports of CHINA, 
 JAPAN and INDIA, and State-rooms assigned on applica- 
 tion. The holder may lie over at Panama, San Francisco, 
 or Yokohama. 
 
 250 pounds of baggage allowed, free, to each adult 
 Cabin Passenger for Japan or China ; 100 pounds to Pas- 
 senge'rs for San Francisco or intermediate points. 
 
 For Passage Tickets, or further information, apply at 
 the Company's Ticket Office, on the Wharf, Pier 42, North 
 River, foot of Canal Street, New York, to 
 
 F. R. BABY, Agent.
 
 SHORT- TRIP G UIDE.ANNO UXCEMENTS. 
 
 Brown Brothers & Co., 
 
 No. 59 WALL STREET, 
 NEW YORK, 
 
 COMMERCIAL AND TRAVELLERS' 
 CREDITS, 
 
 FOR USE IN AMERICA AND ABROAD. 
 
 LETTERS OF CREDIT FOR TRAVELLERS, 
 
 EXCHANGE ON LONDON AND PARIS, 
 SIGHT DRAFTS ON EDINBURGH AND GLASGOW, 
 STOCKS AND BONDS BOUGHT AND SOLD 
 
 AT THE 
 
 NEW YORK STOCK EXCHANGE. 
 
 JAMES G. KING'S SONS, 
 
 54 WILLIAM STREET, NEW YORK. 
 
 30
 
 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. ANNOUNCEMENTS. 
 
 Duncan, Sherman & Co., 
 BANKERS, 
 
 Corner of Pine and Nassau Streets, New York, 
 
 ISSUE 
 
 CIRCULAR NOTES AND TRAVELLING CREDITS, 
 
 Available in all the Principal Cities of the World. 
 
 TRANSFERS OF MONEY BY TELEGRAPH TO EUROPE 
 AND THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Interest allowed on Deposit Accounts. 
 
 John Munroe & Company, 
 
 AMERICAN BANKERS, 
 
 No. 7 Rue Scribe, Paris, and No. 8 Wall Street, 
 New York, 
 
 ISSUE 
 
 CIRCULAR LETTERS of CREDIT for TRAVELLERS 
 
 In all Parts of Europe, etc. 
 ALSO, 
 
 COMMERCIAL CREDITS.
 
 SHORT- TRIP G HIDE. ANNO UNOEMENTS. 
 
 EVERETT HOUSE, 
 
 UNION SQUARE, 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 W. B. BORROWS. 
 
 On the European Plan. 
 
 MOST CHARMINGLY LOCATED HOUSE IN 
 AMERICA. 
 
 SUITES OF ROOMS OF ESPECIAL 
 ELEGANCE, 
 
 FRONTAGE ON THE SQUARE, 
 
 All the Details of Luxury.
 
 SHORT- TRIP G UIDE.ANNO UNCEMENTS. 
 
 ASTOR HOUSE, 
 
 NEW YORK, 
 
 OPPOSITE Cmr HALL PARK. 
 Thoroughly refitted, and with all Latest Improvements. 
 
 CHARLES A. STETSON'S SONS, 
 p
 
 SHORT- TRIP UIDE.ANNO UN CEMENTS. 
 
 ST. JAMES HOTEL, 
 
 FRANKLIN SQUARE, BOSTON, MASS. 
 J. P. M. STETSON, Proprietor. 
 
 One of the best situated, most elegant, and most commodious Houses 
 in America, 
 
 STETSON HOUSE, 
 
 LONG BRANCH, NEW JERSEY. 
 C. A. STETSON, Jr., Lessee. 
 
 Most elegant and fashionable House on the best Beach of the American 
 
 Coast. 
 9
 
 SHORT- TRIP G UIDE.ANNO TTNCEMENTS. 
 
 Universal Exposition, Paris, 1867. 
 
 STEINWAY & SONS 
 
 HAVE BEEN AWARDED 
 
 The First Grand Gold Medal 
 
 For American Pianos in all Three Styles Exhibited, viz., Grand, Square, and 
 Upright, this Medal being DISTINCTLY CLASSIFIED FIRST IN ORDER 
 OF MERIT, and placed at the head of the List of all Exhibitors, in proof of 
 which the following 
 
 OFFICIAL CERTIFICATE 
 
 Of the President and Members of the International Jury on Musical Instru- 
 ments (Class X) is subjoined: " PARIS, July 20, 1867. 
 
 " I certify that the FIRST GOLD MEDAL for American Pianos has been unna- 
 imously awarded to Messrs. STEINWAY by the Jury of the International Ex- 
 hibition. First on the List in Class X. 
 
 " MELINET, President of International Jury. 
 GEORGES KASTNER, 1 
 AMBROISE THOMAS, j Members of the 
 nternational Jury." 
 
 ED. HANSLICK, /> 
 F. E. GEVAERT, 
 
 J. SCHIEDMAYER, J 
 
 This unanimous decision of the International Class Jury, indorsed by the 
 Supreme Group Jury, and affirmed}^ the Imperial Commission, being the final 
 verdict of the only tribunal determining the rank of the awards at the Exposi- 
 tion, places The Stein-way Pianos at the head of all others, in competition with 
 over Four Hundred Piancs entered by the most celebrated European and 
 American manufacturers. 
 
 STEINWAY & SONS . 
 
 WERE ALSO AWARDED A 
 
 FIRST PRIZE MEDAL 
 
 At the Great INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, London, 1862, for Power- 
 ful, Clear, Brilliant, and Sympathetic Tone, with Excellence of Workmanship as 
 shown in Grand and Square Pianos, in Competition -with 269 Pianos from all 
 parts of the World. 
 
 STEINWAY & SONS, in addition to the above, have taken THIRTY-FIVE 
 FIRST PREMIUMS, Gold and Silver Medals, at the Principal Fairs held in this 
 country from the years 1855 to 1862 inclusive, since which time they have not 
 entered their Piano-fortes at any Local Fair in the United States. 
 
 EVERY PIANO IS WARRANTED FOR FIVE YEARS. 
 
 Warerooms, First Floor STEINWAY HALL, 109 & 1 1 1 E. 14-th Street, 
 
 Between 4th Ave. and Irving Place, NEW YORK.
 
 SHORT- TRIP G UIDE.ANNO UNCEXENTB. 
 
 Diamonds, Pearls, Sapphires, 
 
 Emeralds, Fine Jewelry, 
 
 and Watches. 
 
 ALSO, 
 
 SILVER & PLATED WARE, 
 
 FRENCH CLOCKS, FANS, 
 
 BRONZES, OPERA GLASSES, 
 AND OTHER FANCY GOODS. 
 
 A Choice Selection to be found at 
 
 C. A. STEVENS & CO.'S, 
 
 40 EAST FOURTEENTH STREET, 
 
 UNION SQUARE, NEW YORK CITY.
 
 SHORT- TRIP G UIDE.ANNO UN CEMENTS. 
 THE STANDARD 
 
 AMERICAN BILLIARD TABLE. 
 
 This is the best and only reliable Billiard Table manufac- 
 tured, and is furnished with our 
 
 IMPROVED COMBINATION CUSHION, 
 
 Patented November 26th, 1867. 
 
 Besides having on hand Tables, Balls, Cloth, Cues, and every article 
 appertaining to Billiards proper, we are manufacturing a 
 
 TABLE FOR THE HOME CIRCLE, 
 
 Patented April 2itf, 1 868, 
 
 Combining the Library Table, the Dining Table, and 
 the Billiard Table. 
 
 For description and price, address 
 
 PHELAN & COLLENDER, 
 
 Sole Patentees and Manufacturers, 
 Nos. 63, 65, 67 AND 69 CROSBY STREET, NEW YORK.
 
 SHORT-TRIP G HIDE. ANNO ITXC 'EVENTS. 
 
 550 MILES 
 
 OF THE 
 
 UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD, 
 
 Running West from Omaha across the Continent, 
 
 NOW COMPLETED. 
 
 THE WHOLE 
 
 GRAND LINE TO THE PACIFIC 
 
 EXPECTED TO BE 
 
 Opened through by 1870. 
 
 FIRST MORTGAGE BONDS 
 
 PAY 
 
 Six Per Cent, in Gold, 
 
 And are offered for the present at Par, and accrued Inter- 
 est at Six per Cent, in Currency, from July I. 
 
 OVER NINE PER CENT. INTEREST. 
 
 Subscriptions will be received in New York, at the Company's Office, 
 No. 20 Nassau Street, and by 
 
 CONTINENTAL NATIONAL BANK, No. 7 Nas?au Street, 
 CLAKK, DODGE & Co., Bankers, No. 51 Wall Street, 
 JOHN J. Cisco & SON, Bankers, No. 33 Wall Street, 
 
 and by BANKS and BANKERS generally throughout the United States, 
 of whom Maps and Descriptive Pamphlets may be obtained. 
 
 JOHN J. CISCO, Treasurer, 
 
 NEW YORK.
 
 SHORT- TEIP G UIDE.ANNO UNCEHENTS. 
 
 REMARKABLE CURES 
 
 BY THE 
 
 Missisquoi Spring Water. 
 
 CANCER. 
 
 Dr. Dixon, an eminent surgeon of the city of New York, and Editor of the 
 Scalpel, in a letter describing the effects of this water in a case of glandular 
 cancer, says : 
 
 " It is very evident that the use of the Missisquoi Spring Water has raised this 
 lady from a dying condition to comfortable health and strength. 
 
 " EDWARD H. DIXON, M. D." 
 
 Mrs. Dr. Lozier, Dean of the Faculty of the New York Medical College and 
 Hospital for Women and Children, writes : 
 
 "It gives me great pleasure to add my testimony to the healing properties of 
 the Missisquoi Spring Water. I have at present about thirty patients using it 
 Three well-defined' cases of Uterine Cancer have been cured by it. ... As yet 
 I have never prescribed the Missisquoi Spring Water without good effects result- 
 ing from it C. S. LOZIER, M. D., 
 
 361 West Thirty-fourth Street, New York." 
 
 Dr. Howard, of Linden, Genesee County, N. Y., writes: 
 
 " I wish to inform you of my cure of an internal cancer, in order that those 
 who are similarly afflicted may have the benefit of my experience. ... I am an 
 object of wonder to those who knew me while suffering with that terrible 
 malady. I owe my life to the Missisquoi Spring Water. I believe it to be a 
 specific for cancer, and, from what I have seen of its effects, I regard it as a 
 great remedy for diseases of the kidneys and all cutaneous disorders. I have 
 advised many to use it, and can bear witness to its wonderful healing powers. 
 "JONATHAN HOWARD, M. D." 
 
 Dr. Hawley, of Syracuse, N. Y., writes in relation to a case of glandular 
 cancer of seven years' standing: 
 
 " After the ulceration began it steadily progressed until the summer of 1866, 
 and then it had become fully four and a half inches long by three inches wide, 
 and was surrounded by an angry red margin, from which radiated in every 
 direction bright-red streaks, many of them from six to eight inches long. The 
 ulcer secreted constantly an ichorous watery matter, and frequently bled to an 
 alarming extent ... At the same time her general health declined, and the 
 stomach became so irritable as to loath all food and almost reject it as soon as 
 taken. Every symptom presaged an early fatal termination." 
 
 After using the MISSISQUOI SPRING WATER, he adds : " In short, her health 
 was renewed. Yours truly, WILLIAM A. HAWLEY, M. D." 
 
 DISEASES OF THE KIDNEYS. 
 
 In all diseases of the Kidneys and Bladder the MISSISQUOI SPRING WATER 
 acts as a diuretic with marvellous effect It is a specific in those cases. Hun- 
 dreds have been cured by it 
 
 IMPURITIES OF THE BLOOD. 
 
 The Water is a powerful tonic, and a great remedy for all diseases arising 
 from impurity of the blood. 
 
 Pamphlets containing an account of the above and other wonderful cures, 
 attested by eminent physicians, can be had gratis by calling at or addressing 
 a note to 
 
 MISSISQUOI SPRINGS, 
 
 535 BROADWAY, CITY OF NEW YORK. 
 V
 
 SHORT- TRIP G UIDE.ANNO UNCEMENTS. 
 
 John S. Willard & Co., 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF THE 
 
 PRIZE MEDAL MIRRORS, 
 
 Q 
 
 Always on hand, English, French, and American 
 Chromos.
 
 SHORT- TRIP G UIDE.ANNO UNCEXENTS. 
 THE GREATEST AMERICAN IDEA 
 
 OF A 
 
 PROGRESSIVE AND PRACTICAL AGE, 
 
 IS THE 
 
 AMERICAN SYSTEM 
 
 OF 
 
 MUTUAL LIFE ASSURANCE, 
 
 OF WHICH 
 
 The Best Exponent is the 
 
 EQUITABLE LIFE ASSURANCE ASSO- 
 CIATION, 
 
 OFFICE, No. 92 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 
 
 WILLIAM C. ALEXANDER, President. 
 
 HEXRY B. HYDE, Vice-President 
 GEO. W. PHILLIPS, Actuary. 
 JAMES W. ALEXAXDER, Secretary. 
 
 Assets $6,000,000. Income, $4,000,000. 
 
 Policies during 1867 47,000,000. 
 
 All the most desirable and popular kinds of LIFE AND 
 ENDOWMENT POLICIES issued, and every advan- 
 tage appertaining to the business granted 
 
 to Policy Holders. 
 
 PURELY MUTUAL. 
 
 The Charter of the Society requires that all Profits go 
 
 to the Assured. 
 DIVIDENDS DECLARED ANNUALLY, 
 
 And applied as cash to the reduction of future premiums. Dividends upon 
 
 the first year's premium may be applied to reducing the second year's 
 
 premium, and so on annually thereafter. 
 The Assured have the option annually of applying these dividends in any 
 
 of the FIVE FonowrxG WATS, under the rules of the Society : 
 FIRST To the permanent increase of the sum assured ; 
 SECOND To the increase of the sum assured for one year or a term of years ; 
 THIRD To the permanent reduction of the premiums ; 
 FOURTH To the reduction of the premiums for one or more years ; 
 FIFTH To the reduction of the number of years in which premiums are to 
 
 be paid.
 
 UCSB LIB.RAR 
 X
 
 A n \r\ "''' '" "''I Illll III