77s éWW " '2'?  
TEXAS AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION’

AGRICULTURAL AND MECHANICAL COLLEGE OF TEXAS
W. B. BIZZELL, President

V_ BULLETIN NO. 25s DECEMBER, 1919

DIVISION OF ENTOMOLOGY.

BEEKEEPING FOR BEGINNERS

 

B. YOUNGBLOOD, DIRECTOR
College Station, Brazos County,‘ Texas

STATION STAFFT

ADMINISTRATION
B. YOUNGBLOOD, M. S., Director
A. B. CONNER B. S., Vice Director

J. M. Jonas, .

M., Assistant Director

CHAS. A. FELKER, Chief Clerk
A. S. WARE, Secretary

...................... .., Executive Assistant

CnAnLas Sosoux, Technical Assistant

VETERINARY SCIENCE
*M. FRANCIS, D. V. M., Chief

H. SCHMIDT, D.

V. S., Veterinarian

D. H. BENNETT, V. M. D., Veterinarian

CHEMISTRY

G. S. FRAPS, Ph. D., Chief; State Chemist
S. E. Asnunv. M. S., Assistant Chemist

S. LOMANITZ, B. S., Assistant Chemist .
F. B. SCHILLING. B. S., Assistant Chemist
J. B. Sun-n, B. S., Assistant Chemist

HOIRTICULTURE

Nass, M. S.. Chief

W. S. Ho-rcmuss, Horticulturist

ANIMAL INDUSTRY
J. M. Jonas, A. M., Chief; Sheep and Goat
Investigations

. C. Bonus, B. S., Animal Husbandman in
Charge of Beef Cattle Investigations (on leave)
R M. Snanwoon, B. S.,
J. B. MCNULTY, B. S

Poultryman
., Dairyman

O. E. McConNaLL B. S., Animal Husband-
man in Charge of Swine Investigations
R. WARREN, B. S., Assistant Animal Hus-

bandman _ _ T. M. BUSHNELL. B. S., Soil Surveyor
R.bA.dBnawan, B. S., Assistant Animal Hus- W. B. FRANCIS, B. S., Soil Surveyor
an man
SUBSTATIONS
No. l. Beeville, Bee County No. 8. Lubbock, Lubbock County
I. E. COWART, M. S., Superintendent R. E. Knnnan, B. S., Superintendent
D. L. Jonas, Scientific Assistant ‘i
Nm 2_ Troup, smith County G. M. Boys/a, Forest Nursergman and Ir-
W S. Horcnmss, Superintendent "gatwmst ‘
No. 9. Pecos, Reeves County
No. 3. Angleton, Brazoria County _ _ B_ _ ' d
E. B. Ravnonps, M. S., Superintendent J W JACKSON’ S ' Supermun m‘ 
No. 10. (Feeding and Breeding Subltafl l“
No. 4. Beaumont, Jefferson _County College Station, Brazos County ”
A. . Pnmca, B. S., Superintendent i————+. _Superu_1tcndent
E. CAMERON, Scientific Assistant
N°- 5- Temlile- Be“ 0mm‘? No. ll. Nacogdoches, Nacogdoches Con f

No. 6.

O

No. 7.
R.

T. KILLOUGH, B. S., Superintendent

Denton, Denton Coun

1y
H. McDowanL, B. S., Superintendent

Spur, Dickens County

E. Drcxsou, B. S., Superintendent

 

TAs of December 1, 1919.

tln cooperation with School of Agriculture, A. 8c M. College of Texas.
*In cooperation with the School of Veterinary Medicine, A. & M. College o! Texas.
"In cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture.

 c.  \~ x

   
  
  
   
 

ENTOMOLOGY .
M. C. TANQUARY, Ph. D., Chief; State
mologist 1'
H. J. REINHARD, B. S., Entomologist
H. B. PARKS, B. S., Apiculturist
, Assistant Entom'

 

AGRONOMY
A. B. Cowman, B. S., Chief
A. H. Lawton, B. S., Agronomist
E. W. Gavan, B. S., Agronomist
H. H. Lnuna, M. S., Agronomist

PLANT PATHOLOGY AND PHYSIOL i A
C

J. J. TAUBENHAUS, Ph. D., Chi f

FEED CONTROL SERVICE
F. D. FuLLan, M. S., Chief
JAMES SULLIVAN, Executive Secretary

FORESTRY 
E. O. SIECKE, B. S., Chief; State Forester‘:

PLANT BREEDING
E. P. Humaanr, Ph. D., Chief

FARM AND RANCH ECONOMICS
H. M. Euor, M. A., Chief

SOIL SURVEY
**W. T. Curran, Jn., B. S., Chief
J. F. S-rnoun, Soil Surveyor

G. T. McNass, Superintendent 

'"No. l2. Chillicothe, Hardeman County ’
A. B. CRON, B. S., Su erintendent ‘
V. E. Human, B. S., cientific Assistant

No. l4. Sonora, Sutton-Edwards Countlol 
E. M. Pa-rans, B. S., Superintendent

 

  
 
  
   
  
  
   
  
  
      
   
 

CONTENTS.
 A ' Page
i troduction . . . . . . . . . . f. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

_ 'fe History of the Bee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..' . . . . . . . .. 8

i The Queen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 8

 Cause of Swarming . . . . . . .  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 8

i Manner‘ of Swarming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

" Age of Queens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 9

 The Drone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 9

f Drone Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 9

-; The Worker Bee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

a Kinds of Bees. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 10

he Start in Beekeeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

I The Hive . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 11

 The Super . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .‘ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 11

 Other Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 11

 Use of Hive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 12

e Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 12

1 Honey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .- . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

; Bee Bread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 13

EWaX  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..1a

 Other Substances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 14

ax Economy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

The Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 14

‘The Extractor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

1 Care of Wax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 16

i a ansferring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

 e Year’s Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 1'7

Spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 1'7

,5 Uniting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 18

;_ Requeening . . . . .1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

t‘ - Feeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Swarming . . . . . . . . . . . ; . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Swarm Control . . . . 7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

TSummer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 . . . . . . . . . . . .- . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2O

i Extracting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 2O

 1 Shade and Ventilation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 20

Fumigation for Beemoth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 2] '

 

 

4 ' CONTENTS.

Page
Fall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 21

Brood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Dividing and Requeening . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Stores . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 22

Winter . . .‘ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 22

Care of Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 22

Enemies and Diseases . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  . . . . . . . . . . .. 23

Beemoth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ., . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Ants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 23

Flies and Spiders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Birds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 23

Accidents . . . .' . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ._ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Disease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 24

Caution . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 24

Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 24

List of Books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 25

A PLATES. V
 Facing Page.
 1. The Bee and the Wax Moth. 1 Worker. 2- Worker Brood.

 ' 3 Drone. 4 Drone Brood. 5 Queen. 6 Queen Cells.

 I 7 Wax Moth. 8 Wax Moth Larva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
2. Above, the standard hive showing its parts; below, the tools

 . used in bee culture: smoker, gloves, brush, veil, and hive tool. 11

  
   
    
     
  
 
   
  

 Waxing in Foundations. 1 Stringing wire. 2 Tigthening
 wire. 3 The sheet of foundation in place. 4 Waxing rack.
5 Frame on waxing rack. 6 Embedding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

 Extracting. 1 The full super comb. 2 Uncapping knife and
‘ y bar. 3 Uncapping. 4 The uncapped comb. 5 Extractor.
6 The extracted comb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

., Transferring. 1 The gum and hive. 2 First position for
I transferring. 3 Second position. 4 The gum opened.
5 Ciltting the comb. 6 The comb tied in . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 16

I  Inspecting the hive. 1 Smoking the hive. 2 Removing the
'9 top. 3 Inspecting super. 4 Removing the super. 5 Re-
moving brood frame. 6 Inspecting brood . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 1'?

BULLETIN ‘N0. 255. DECEMBER, 1919.

BEEKEEPING FOR a BEGINNERS

BY
H. B. PARKS, B. 8., APICULTURIST or THE TEXAS EXPERIMENT STATION.

INTRODUCTION.

This paper is to take the place of Bulletin No. 142, issued in 1902
and again in 1911. Because of the constant demand for No. 142 the
last edition was exhausted several years ago. This demand is rapidly
becoming greater owing to the Work of the increased number of apiary
inspectors and the campaign for improvement in beekeeping under the
Extension Service. This paper, like the former, is not intended for
specialists or professional beekeepers, but is for those who possess very
little or no knowledge of this subject and wish to care for a fe-yv
colonies. The plan is to give definite information as how to begin,
what to get, and what to do. No discussion of variation in bee
behavior, or of method is given. To give a choice of methods is but
to confuse the beginner and to compare methods is to so beurilder him
that he becomes discouraged and quits. The information given is
simple and if followed by the new beekeeper will guide him through
his first year of bee work. Then if this system does not answer his
needs, his year’s experience will enable him to understand and to carry

‘out the more elaborate methods of advanced beekeepers.

Only a few become successful commercial beekeepers. The tempera—
ment, insight, and skill for this occupation is possessed by few. Any»
“one who thinks of commercial be-ekeeping should go very slowly until
he has actual experience in handling bees. However, the majority of
the farmers and people living in small towns, with little expense and
‘time, can keep a few stands of bees with profit.

The number of stands which can be taken care of by one man and
at one place becomes a question of interest. The first year, the
‘beginner should have two stands. The reason for two becomes appar-

ent as one reads this brief description of bee culture. The man on the

farm with his many other duties, should not have more than five
colonies. If he has more, the time required will be so great that the

bees will be neglected in favor of the crops. If he has less than five,

he has not enough to pay him to buy foundation and hive fixtures in
‘the original packages, and therefore he must pay a. much higher price
for the few fixtures, and further he does not own colonies enough to
warrant his buying a honey extractor and a solar wax extractor. The
man in the small town with some time to spare can keep from ten to
‘twenty-five stands to an advantage. Not more than this number should

whose existence depends the life of the hive, she is of more importance

‘inch, it is in these cells that the Worker bees are raised. Another _

8 TEXAS AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT - STATION.

    
  
    
 
    
      
  
 
   
  
  
  
    
    
 

be kqit at one place, as the commercial beekeepers are coming T
believe that from twenty-five to fifty stands to the bee yard will do f,
better than a greater number. Under ordinary conditions twenty-fivf
colonies to the yard, with the yards at least three miles apart, a,
give the best results. To choose a location for a bee yard requir
much experience, but the choice is based on the following factors: 51
abundance of bee flora, blooming from spring until winter, a goo
supply of fresh water, accessibility to the- owner, and protection H‘:
Weather and animals. 

LIFE HISTORY OF THE BEE.

Before one can rightly care for bees it is very necessary that he hav
the main facts of their life history at hand, for on these depend th
principal operations of beekeeping. The honey bee is the most highly
specialized of all insects and is one of the few man has been able to
domesticate. It is highly probable that bees had their origin in two
widely separated localities, namely: India and‘ Abyssinia. From these‘,
centers man carried them to the ends of the earth. In the domesticated
state today, the black and yellow bees indicate the dual origin, and the f
dependence on man’s protection indicates the early domestication of
the insect.

THE QUEEN.

The normal colony of bees consists of one queen, several hundred‘
drones at certain seasons, and from 8,000 to 75,000 workers. The ‘
queen is the mother of the colony and is in no way a ruler; in fact, she
is but an egg-laying individual that follows the same social instinctW
which governs the rest of the hive. As the egg-laying individual upon =;

than if she ruled. The queen is the only perfectly developed female.
in the hive; the workers are stunted females; the drones are perfect“
males. Within the hive are found three classes of cells. The class“
most commonly found is that which averages about five cells to the i

class is that which averages about four cells to the inch; the cells of 
this class are known as drone cells. In early summer on the combs ‘-
there will be found long pendant cells much resembling peanuts. In j
these few especially constructed cells the queens are raised. ‘

CAUSE OF SWARMING.

In the economy of the bees, in order that the species be perpetuated .
and that new colonies be established, swarming occurs. In the early 
summer the worker bees construct a few large cells, in which the grub
or larva is fed on the royal jelly for about six days. This royal jelly p?
is a white substance secreted by the nurse bees. This food is also
supplied to the worker larvae but in far less quantities. The full i
grown larva is sealed over to go through the change into the adult, I
which period is known as the sealed brood or pupa stage, and extends
over seven days. As it requires three days for the egg to hatch, the
time from the egg to the adult queen is sixteen days.

1

1. Worker.
5. Queen.

 

PLATE 1——THE BEE AND WAX MOTH.
2. Worker brood. 3. Drone.
7. Wax moth.

4. Drone brood.

6. Queen cells. 8. Wax moth larva.

BEEKEEPING FOR BEGINNERS. 9

-MANNER OF SWARMING.

Shortly after these queen cells are sealed, the old queen leaves
accompanied by all the old bees which happen to be in the hive at the
time. The old queen and the old bees go out in the swarm to hunt a
new home. The hive now contains the field bees, which were absent
at the time the swarm left, the young or nurse bees, and the but-oil.
The first queen that emerges or “hatches” destroys all unemerged
queens. She is now known as a virgin queen. In a few days she leaves
the hive- on her mating flight, where she is met on the wing by a drone
and fertilization takes place. This act of pairing occurs but once in
the lifetime of the queen and the drone dies in the act of copulation.
The queen now returns to her hive and in two days begins laying eggs.
The far greater number of these eggs are fertilized and develop into

workers; a few develop into queens; a small number are not fertilized

and develop into drones. Normally, swarming occurs but once in a
year, but if the hive is small and hot a large number of swarms
may occur. r

AGE or QUEENS.

A good queen will lay from 2,000 to 3,000 eggs per day during the
active season. Queens have been known to live to an age of six or seven
years, but after two years of egg laying they become so worn that it
pays to replace them with young queens.

THE DRONE.

The drone is developed from an unfertilized egg which was deposited
by the queen in a drone cell. This egg hatches in three days; the
larva is fed six days and exists in the sealed brood stage fifteen days.
The drone or male thus requires twenty-four days from egg to’ adult.
As their whole service is but to insure the fertilization of the new
queen, they occur in large numbers only during the swarming time.
In the production of such quantities of males, natureis making certain

that the queen will get mated and that the stock will be held to the ‘

natural requirements, as only the best developed male is likely to be
successful in overtaking the queen in her flight.

DRONE CONTROL.

As the drones have to be fed by the nurse bees and their large size
occupies space needed by the worker-bees, their presence in large num-
bers is a great disadvantage to the beekeeper. Any device that lessens
their numbers will increase his honey production. One of the most
efficient de-vices used to reduce the number of drones raised is wax
foundation. This foundation which is fastened in the frame is a sheet
of bees’ wax stamped with worker cells. The bees in building upon
this make only worker cells, and as drones are rarely produced in
worker cells, the use of ‘foundation very-largely controls the drone
production. The beekeeper need not worry about having sufficient
drones, for i11 spite of all he can do, during swarming time, drones
will be produce-d in every odd corner of the hive; even mashed places

Because of the brief life cycle of the bee and the fact that there is but

   
   
  
    
    
  
  
  
  
   
  
   
 
  

10 TEXAS AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION.

on foundation will be made into drone comb. The newly introdu‘
aluminum comb is also a good drone preventive. The fact that 
drone is developed from an unfertilized egg and is thus the son of 
mother only, is of advantage in improving the stock of the apiary,fv
even if the queen has mis-mated, the drones are of pure stock. At i
end of the swarming season or when a honey flow ends, the worker b
_gene-rally kill the drones. i‘

THE WORKER BEE.

The worker is the real bee; a knowledge of its industry, sting, an
so-called intelligence is common property. The fertilized eggs whic
are to produce the workers are deposited within the smallest cells 
the comb. The egg hatches in three days; the larval stage is 
days; the -pupal stage is thirteen days: thus, the worker passes fro
egg to adult in twenty-one days. The worker larva is fed first wit
the royal jelly and then with a mixture of » honey and pollen calle» 7
bee bread. On em-,ergence, the workers have a grey color that dis;
appe-ars in a few days. The young workers act as nurses, as general i
housekeepers, and when they grow older as guards and water carriers.’
After this period of training, the Worker goes out to bring in necta 
and pollen, helps within the hive to secrete wax, to build comb, and toil
occupy its place in the economy of the colony. The length of a bee’s'f;
life depends largely upon its wings. In the summer from three to.»
five weeks’ work in the dry hot air so breaks the wings that the}
worker, no longer able to sustain the load, falls in the field and does i,
not return to the hive. The life period varies from three Weeks
upward; those bees that winter over must in some places be sevenori
eight months old. As the worker is an imperfectly developed female, -.
so when a hive becomes queenless, certain workers will lay eggs which i
develop into drone-s. These egg-laying workers are called “fertile i
workers.” -

a KINDS OF BEES.

The beginner is concerned with but three kinds of bees: the Native 2
Black or German bee and the Three Banded and Golden Italian bees.
By far the greater number of bees found in gums and trees are black. a
These are susceptible to disease and ravages of the wax moth. Theyh
are not gentle and are inclined to fly when one is takingcare of them. 

one egg-laying individual, one may change the color and temperament
of a colony of bees within a very short time. It will pay every beginner
to re-queen with a pure bred Italian queen. These queens can be pur- ' 
chased from many parties in the State at very reasonable price-s. The
choice between Three Banded and Golden Italian is purely a matter of
personal opinion.

THE START IN BEEKEEPING.

Few persons plan to go into the work of beekeeping; most beekeepers
and those who have bees came into possession of them accidentally and
as a consequence the bees were in various conditions of housing. These

PLATE 2.

Above, the standard hive showing its parts; below, the tools used in bee
culture; smoker, gloves, brush, veil, and hive tool.

BEEKEEPING FOR BEGINNERS. 11

varied conditions often discourage the beginner. If one can choose as
to Where he gets his startof bees, let him buy a colony of the best bees
that can be purchased from a. reliable beekeeper. He should specify
that the queen is under two years of age, that the combs are drawn
from full sheets of foundation, that the fraIne-s are Wired, and that the
bees are free from disease. Such a stand of bees will cost from eight
to ten times as much as a. box gum, but the (liffercnce between the two»
is about the same as between a thoroughbred cow and a scrub.

THE HIVE.

To keep bees in the best possible manner, the beginner must have
certain articles which belong strictly to the bee business. The first is
the standard hive (the word hive as used i11 this pape-r means the
standard movable frame hive and the word gum refers to any housing
for bees in which the combs are immovable). This standard hive is
in many places called the patent gum. At the present time no patent
exists on this hive as it is the result of the experiments of hundreds of
beekeepers. Its size and spacing give better results than any other
form tried; so if the beginner thinks of making his own hives he
should buy one standard hive and follow this pattern very closely.
The hive- has three parts: a bottom board, a hive body or brood
chamber, and a top board. The bottom board is so made that on one
side there is a three-eighth inch entrance for winter use, and on the
other side aseven-eighth inch entrance for summer use. The hive.
body or brood chamber contains the brood frames. These should be
fully wired and have fu.ll sheets of medium foundation. The cover or
top board should be kept clean of propolis and weighted down at the
sides, preferably with a brick, in order to prevent warping- Neither"

_ the top nor the bottom should be nailed to the brood chamber, except

when the hive is to be moved some distance; and then only hive staples
should be used. ,
THE SUPER.

When the brood chamber becomes filled with the brood in the spring
there is no longer a place to store supplies; so a super is put on the
hive. The super is not so deep as the hive body and for that reason
is more easily handled, and i.s recommended for the beginner. If one
is going to extract, the super frames should be wired and have full
sheets of foundation. If chunk honey is wanted, use full sheets of
foundation only. When one super is almost filled with brood and
honey, another should be added. Always put the empty super between
the brood chamber and the filled super.

OTHER TOOLS.

In addition to the hive, the keeper must have certain articles: The
smoker is the big stick of the beeman; a few whiffs of smoke blown
into the entrance of the hive causes the bees to start filling up on
honey. Well-filled bees are not inclined to sting, but too much smoke
is often as bad‘as too little. The hive fool is used in opening the hive,
in removing frames, and in cleaning off propolis. Screw drivers,

12, TExAs AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION.

putty knives, or other similar articles are much used as hive tools.
The bee bruslv is used to remove the bees from the comb that is being
taken from the hive and is an absolute necessity in transferring. A
good strong feather is better than most brushes. Whenever the brush
or feather has become covered with honey, it should be washed and
dried in the sun. Bees sting, and stings hurt most people, but if one
handles bees properly, there is little danger of being stung. Always
be on the safe side and wear a veil, which can be easily made of
bobbinette or of mosquito bar. Get a piece of material thirty-six
inches long, sew the ends together, make a half-inch hem around the
top and bottom of the net, and-put one-fourth inch elastic tape into
the two seams. Pull the veil on over a straw hat so that the top tape
fits the hatband. Pull the lower part of the veil down and tie the
lower tape so that it fits snugly around the shoulders. A string should
be tied to the edge of the veil just in front of the left shoulder; then
pass the string under the left arm around the back, up under the right
arm, and tie to the edge of the veil. Thus will the edge be held tightly
against the body. Use black or blue material for the veil, but use a
light colored hat. It will pay every beginner to wear a pair of bee
gloves until he has learned to handle bees. The sleeves of the gloves
should reach above the elbow and have elastic tape to hold them in
place. If the gloves are made at home, use a lightweight duck. Gloves
are hot and bunglesome but will save the beginner much trouble.

USE OF HIVE.

The hive is designed as a factory and warehouse for bee products.
Few beekeepers make their own hives as the factory article is more
nearly exact in size and the cost is but little more than that paid for
the hand-made product. The beginner should buy his fixtures knocked

_down, that is, not nailed together, as the cost and freight is much

less. With each package of parts will be found printed directions
showing how to put the bottoms, tops, and frames together. One
should follow closely the advice of the manufacturer. Two good coats
of white paint should be applied to all the surfaces of every bottom
and top; it is necessary to apply two coats of paint to the outside only
of the bodies and supers. Do not paint the frames.

BEE PRODUCTS.

Within the hive the bees make, store, and re-work a number of
products. These substances in rank of production are as follows:
honey, bee bread, wax, propolis, royal jelly, silk, and formic acid.

HONEY.

In the word honey is expressed the complete cause of all the worry
and care of beekeeping. This material consists of a water solution of
two sugars, very small amounts of essential oils, and probably some
little formic acid. The main source of honey is nectar, a sweet liquid
secreted by certain plants from glands called nectaries, located mainly
within the flowers, but in some cases on other parts of the plant. At

BEEKEEPING r011 BEGINNERS. 13

  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
   
  
   
  
   
  
  
    
 
   
 
  
   
 
  

f times other sweet liquids such as the sweet sap of plants, for instance,
 the maple tree and sugar cane, the sweet secretion from plant galls, and
 even the aphid secretion called “honey dew” become a component of
A honey. This material when collected by the bee is a trifle heavie-r
Pf than pure water. The bee sucks the nectar into a storage tank called
 the “honey stomach,” in which it is carried into the hive; here the bee
 sprays the load of nectar into an unfilled cell. Throughout the entire
A nectar-gathering period the bees keep up a forced circulation of air
j within the hive by “fanning” their wings. This circulation, helped
Tl perhaps by some absorption of water by the honey stomach, reduces
Tthe water content until the liquid weighs twelve pounds to the standard
i gallon. At this point the honey is capped over by the bees. Such
1" honey seldom ferments, but if it is taken oif before “capping over or
 sealing,” fermentation is very likely to occur. Bees cannot transport
‘h to the hive dry crystals of sugar or even very thick sugar syrup. The
o reason that in dry hot seasons honey plants bloom and bees fail to get
 nectar from them is that the dryness of the air absorbs the water in
~ the nectar as soon as it is secreted and the bee finds nothing but sugar
 crystals, which it cannot carry.

BEE BREAD.

On almost every brood comb will be seen cells filled with solid
colored material which is called bee bread, as it is used for bee food
 and is indispensable to the grub‘ or larva. It is composed of pollen
i mixed with just enough honey to make the mass hold together. This
I pollen, which is a powder found in almost all blossoms, is collected
;by the bee and carried on the hind legs. On entering the hive the
_ bee deposits these pellets in a cell containing only bee bread, where a
wnurse bee spreads them out until a layer is formed over the entire
“surface of the cell. This making a layer of each load of pollen together
iwith the fact that there are rarely two kinds of plants possessing pollen
of the same color, has led to the belief that the bees fill a cell with but
tone variety of pollen. During a heavy flow half-filled cells of bee
bread may be filled with hone-y, but never the reverse. In some locali-
‘ties there is a lack of pollen plants blooming at the time necessary to
iupply food for the fall brood. This lack of food reduces the strength
of the colony so that it cannot recover in time to take care of the next
spring flow. Any plant, blooming in July and August, and producing
in abundance of pollen, is a welcome source of food to the bee in
"these places.
i WAX.

The combs are made of wax, which is a secretion of the worker bees
'ifl-I1(l generally of the young workers. In order to produce this wax
{they gorge themselves with honey and hang in curtain-like clusters.
While hanging in these clusters the wax is secreted from glands on the
underside of the bee’s body. The wax is collected by the nurse bees
..» d worked into the cell walls. It requires quite a high temperature
“(or the bees to secrete Wax. One often sees small pieces of comb in
arly spring or late fall made from old wax. This reworked wax is
Lmposed principally of old cell cappings and has a dirty grainy

 

14 TExAs AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION.

appearance. Various authorities estimate tha.t it takes from ten to i

thirty pounds of honey eaten and digested by the bees to produce a.
pound of Wax. The latest estimate made gives twenty pounds as the ‘i
amount.

OTHER SUBSTANCES.

luanmamn n‘ - _.-

The royal jelly is a creamy White substance secreted by the nurse a
bees and is used in feeding larvae and probably the drones and queens. »
Silk is secreted by glands in the- mouth of the full grown larva. On ,
completing its growth the larva spins a cocoon or envelope of silk 
around itself in which to pass the pupal stage. This silk is brown ‘5
and gives that color to all combs Which have had brood raised in them. f
Formic acid is the substance Which is injected by the sting and which 
causes the pain and swelling. Small amounts of this acid have been 
reported in analyses of honeys and it is supposed that it is placed there
to aid in preserving the honey.

‘VAX ECONOMY.

As it requires many pounds of honey to produce a pound of wax j
it is of the utmost importance to the beekeeper to see that the bees,

build but the minimum of comb. This is accomplished by the use of i;

the wax foundation already mentioned and also by the use of an 

extractor. » c‘
THE FOUNDATION.

The foundation is a sheet of bees’ wax stamped with worker cells ~

on both sides and comes in several thicknesses for use in brood and A

extracting frames. Medium’ brood should be used for brood frames '
and light super for the extracting frames. Full sheets of foundation j
shouldbe used in all frames so that all combs will be drawn straight 
and as the bee “draws” out the foundation to some extent, the new i
comb is produced at the least wax expenditure. To get the best '
results the foundation must be properly fixed in the frame; to do this ~’
the frames are first wired as shown in Fig. 1, Pl. 3. The wire is
tightened by winding it around the- small nail as shown in Fig. 2, Pl. 3,
and is fastened by driving in the nail. Then the sheet of foundation ~
is placed against the wire and its edge in the groove in the top bar as
shown in Fig. 3, Pl. 3. The frame is then place-d on the waxing rack j
shown in Fig. 4, Pl. 3. The bottom bar is hung over the nails so that
the top bar comes just under the board. The top nails shown are to
hold brood-frames. When waxing brood frames remove the nails that
are for the super frames. When the frame is in the position shown in
Fig. 5, Pl. 3, pour on enough bees’ wax,‘which is slightly above the
melting point, to securely fasten the sheet in place. The frame is I
now placed on a board that fits inside the frame with the Wires on the j
top side. A spur imbedder is then used to fasten the sheet to the Wires, a
as shown in Fig. 6, Pl. 3. If the board is wiped off occasionally with a
a damp cloth the wax will not stick. It also helps to dip the imbedder .
in water.

.-.\ ' .

PLATE 3—WAXING IN FOUNDATION.

1. Stringing wire. 2. Tightening wire. 3. The sheet of foundation
in place. 4. Waxing rack. 5. Frame on waxing rack.
6. Embedding.

PLATE 4—EXTRACTING.

1. Uncapping. 2. The extracted frame. 3. Uncapping knife and bar.
4. Extracting. 5. The full super comb. 6. The uncapped frame.

BEEKEEPING FOR BEGINNERS. 15

THE EXTRAOTOR.

The other great wax saving device is the extractor. After the bees
have built comb on the Wired foundation, filled the cells with honey,
and have capped it over, the frame is removed from the hive. While
it is best to wait until the capping" is complete as shown in Fig. 5, Pl. 4,
frames two-thirds capped on both side-s may be extracted with but
little danger from souring. In taking the frames from the hive,
brush all bees from the comb and place the frames in a. covered box or
can. The frames are carried in this covered container to keep them
free from bees and to lessen the chances of starting robbing, the menace
of the extracting season. The combs are take-n into a screened enclosure.
where the extractor, and the other tools used, are kept. The extractor
is a sheet iron tank containing Wire baskets which can be rapidly
revolved by means of a crank and gear. The first step in extracting
is to remove the caps,—an operation that is performed by an un-
capping knife, such as is shown in Fig. 3, Pl. 4. This operation must
take place- overa container to catch and hold the cappings and dripped
honey. For a beginner a five-gallon stoneware jar is probably the
best. To aid in holding the frame a wooden bar such as is shown in
Fig. 3, Pl. 4, is placed across the top of the jar. This bar is made
from an inch board, and is knotched at the ends to tightly fit the jar.
The opening in the top of the bar is four inches long and three-fourths
of an inch deep and has the nail points shown near the ends, on which
to stand the frame. The knife, also shown in’ Fig. 3, is used in the
manner shown in Fig. 1, Pl. 4. Always begin at the bottom, using
the top and bottom bars as guides cutting with a slant stroke upward,
holding the frame so that the cappings swing free as seen in Fig. 1.
In order to have the knife work to the be-st advantage it should have a
keen edge and be kept hot; this is done by having a ‘bucket of boiling
Water at hand in which the knife is dipped as often as it becomes cool.
The uncapped comb, Fig. 6, Pl. 4, is placed in the extractor in Fig. 4,
Pl. 4. Revolve the frames 30 times at the rate of G0 turns per minute;
reverse either baskets or frames and turn them 60 times at the same
rate; again reverse and turn .30 times. By turning the frames three
times one saves breaking many combs. Always start and stop the
extractor slowly. The empty comb shown in Fig. 2, Pl. 4, is almost
dry and should be returned to the hive a.t once. As the honey in the
extractor reaches the baskets, it should be drawn off through a tap at
the bottom and strained through a cheese cloth sack into suitable con‘-
tainers. The cappings should be put into a colander or sieve and be
allowed to drain. The honey so obtained should then be strained
through cheese cloth to take out the fine particles of wax. It has been
estimated that the use of foundation and an extractor increased the
production of honey from fifty to one hundred per cent. It will pay
anyone having three or more hives to own an extractor. Where one
has no extractor no wires should be put into the super frames, but the
foundation should be well waxed in. When capped over the whole
comb is cut from the frame and the frame scraped and filled with a
new sheet of foundation. '

1,6 TEXAS AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION.

CARE OF WAX.

As bees’ wax is a valuable substance, every particle should be kept.
All scrapings of frames and bits of comb removed in cleaning up the
hives should be saved. To get these bits of Wax and cappings in shape
to sell, the beginner can utilize any double boiler 0r substitute. About
equal amounts of water and wax should be placed in the inside vessel;
bring the water in the outside vessel to a boil, and after all the wax
is melted allow the boiler to cool slowly. In this Way a fairly pure
cake of wax is procured as the honey in the cappings remains in the
water and the dirt sinks to the bottom. When the wax is cold, remove
it from the boiler by cutting around the edge and then wash off any
adhering honey. No Wax should be sold on the market, but should be
sold direct to the manufacturers of foundation or their jobbers.
When owning less than 5O stands, one should possess a solar Wax
extractor; When more than 50 stands are owned, a hot water wax
press is desirable.

TRANSFERRING.

The explanation already given Will enable the reader to understand
the brief outline of the year’s work in beekeeping that follows. In
order that all may begin on the same footing it is necessary to describe
the transferring of bees from a gum to a hive, as bees in gums cannot
be cared for. Bees can be transferred any time when there is a honey
flow. 'The best time is during the first honey flow in the spring. A
hive with all but three frames filled with_ sheets of foundation should
be provided for each stand t0 be transferred. To make the transfer,
smoke the gum Well; then after allowing time for the bees to fill up,
place the hive and gum in the position shown in Fig. 2, Pl. 5, placing
some loose boards over the opening as shown. Remove the top from
the gum and smoke heavily at that end. After a few minutes’ smoking
remove one of the boards that was set up at the side in order to be able
to brush the cluster of bees, which will be seen, onto the lighting board
of the hive. If they do not go in they should be brushed in, a bee brush
or feather generally being used for this purpose. After two or three
smokings and brushings most of the bees will be in the hive. Either
pull the nails along the edge of the gum or split it open endways, insert
the blade of a knife as shown in Fig. 4, Pl. 5, and cut the comb loose,
side and top; then spread the gum out flat as is seen in Fig. 4, Pl. 5.
Pick out the best and largest pieces of brood comb, which, after the
adhering bees are brushed off before the opening of the hive, is placed
on a fiat surface, the brood frame laid on it, and the included portion

h cut out as shown in Fig. 5, Pl. 5. If one piece of comb does not furnish

enough good brood comb, a number of pieces may be used, just so they
reach from the top to the bottom bars. These pieces are tied in with
cotton twine as shown in Fig. 6, Pl. 5. Place this frame into the hive.
The presence of the brood has a wonderful effect on the bees as they
become quiet almost at once. Tie in the other two frames. It will
take all the good brood comb to complete the frames. If there is but
little honey in what has been tied in, it is well to tie in a fourth frame
of honey. As soon as all frames are in place, brush the bees that
remain on the pieces of comb onto the grc und and remove every particle

W?
‘ ,%Z 4%;

PLATE 5—TRANSFERRING. _

1. The gum and hive. 2. First position for transferring. 3. Second
position. 4. The gum opened. 5. Cutting the comb.
6. The comb tied in.

PLATE 6—INSPECTING THE HIVE.

1. Smoking the hive. 2. Removing the top. 3. Inspecting super.
4. Removing the super. 5. Removing brood frame.
6. Inspecting brood.

BEEKEEPING FOR BEGINNERS. 17

i? honey, comb, and the old gum from the vicinity of the hive, as the

illed honey may start robbing. Just as soon as the beesfasten in the
F". they will remove the strings, but one must examine the hive in

our or five days to see if the queen is present. If ‘she is seen or eggs

 present, all is well; if noqueen or eggs are found, a new queen or
_- ggs must be provided. Re-queening will be discussed under that head
71¢ the discussion of the year’s work. There are many other methods
of transferring which are easierbut slower than this and involve a
onsiderable knowledge of beekeeping. If the new beekeeper uses this
‘method, he is done with the transfer at once and is ready to go to work

advantageously.

THE YEARS WORK.

SPRING.

i As soon as the bees are seen bringing in loads of pollen from mistle-

 e, elm, or other early blooming plants, it is time to clean up the hive

or spring activities. At this time of the year, open the hives only

 warm, bright days and near the middle of the day, as the young
_rood and even the old bees are very susceptible to cold. The manner
n which a hive is entered has a marked effect on the bees. If the hive
 opened without jar or quick action, the bees will rarely sting, but if
i: hive is roughly handled, look out. To go through the hives proceed

. ‘follows: give each hive a few puffs of smoke as shown in Fig. 1, Pl.

p; then place the hive tool under the edge of the top and slowly raise
'thout a jar, at thesame time blowing smoke through the widening
track, as shown in Fig. 2, Pl. 6. If a super is present, blow smoke
ross the top bars, Fig. 3, Pl. 6, until the bees go down; now scrape
wax and propolis from lid and top bars. The super frames should

- removed one at a time and all excess propolis and wax removed.
_‘ ter the super has been finished, insert the hive tool between the
H: and hive body and after blowing in a little smoke remove the
‘per as shown in Fig. 4, Pl. 6. Clean the top of the brood frames,

 the frames separately and cle-an them (see Figs. 5 and 6, P1. 6).

 put the hive ba<k together, and after blowing smoke into the
trance, remove the hive from the bottom board, on which will be

J a mass of cappings and other debris of the Winter. This board

ould be brushed and scraped clean, care being taken that neither
orm nor cocoon be left in crack or corner, for in this mass of dirt the
ax worm generally gets its start. When one cleans the hive, one
otices that the frames do not quite fill the body and that, after the
've has been cleaned, these frames can be pushed to one side. To
an the top bars and push them to one side and then space them
ck is called by the beemen “working a hive.” The object of this
lorking” is to keep the hive clean, and the frames movable, and. at
h- same time to control the wax moth. The eggs of this insect are
“nly deposited in the spur comb between bars and under the ends of
i» top bars. This cleaning and moving of frames removes the eggs
5: exposes the moth larva and when so exposed the bees make short
rk of the intruder. This working m.ust be done at least every eight
ys during the active season.

18 TEXAS AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATIoN.

r Uniting.

If one, 0n going through the hive, finds that the old bees are nu-
merous, that the queen is laying quantities of eggs, that young grubs are
present, and that at least ten pounds of honey still remain, then,
he should pay only the minimum attention to this hive. However, the
following conditions may be found: the colony may be de-ad, in which
case, clean“ the hive very thoroughly and put in new foundation in
preparation for the first new swarm. If any good wax is found, it
should be extracted; but if the combs were destroyed by the- wax worm,
burn all the scrapings and dirt from the hive. If a hive is found with
only a small number of bees‘ in it and neither queen nor brood, it should
be united with a colony having a queen. To unite take the top from
the hive having a queen, spread two thicknesses of common newspaper
over the top, and put on it the weak colony. In two or three days the
hive should be opened, the paper removed, and what bees remain in
the top smoked down. If honey remains in the frames, these frames
can be exchanged for empty ones in the. lower chamber or the entire
brood chamber can be removed for use elsewhere.

Re qu cent/n g.

If a colony is found strong, that is, with plenty of old bees and with
stores, that is, honey and bee bread, and no queen, eggs, or young
brood, it should be requeened. Send to one of the various queen
raisers of Texas and buy a tested Golden or Three Banded Italian
queen. The queen will come to you by mail in a small wood and wire
cage. _To introduce her smoke the hive well, open the brood chamber,
and move the brood frames apart so that there is a wide opening
between the middle bars. Now take the queen cage and remove the
paper tag that is nailed over one end. Under this paper will be seen
a. lump of sugar closing the entrance to the cage; take the cage by the
other end and place it, entrance down, into the gap between the brood
frames, near one end of the frame. Press one edge of the queen cage
against the comb until it sticks there; now return all the. brood frames
to place, so that the cage is just below the top bar and held by both
edges. Examine the hive in three days and most likely the queen will
be found laying. If she is still in the cage, loosen the lump of sugar
with a knife blade and let the bees at it again. Later in the season
the easiest way for the beginner to requeen is to give the queenless
colony a frame of brood containing eggs and young larvae and allow
the bees to raise a queen. To do this, take from the best hive you have
a frame containing eggs, brush the old bees from it, and put it in the
queenless hive. Next, take the frame from the queenless hive, and,
after having brushed it well, place it in the first hive.

Feeding.

In early spring the hives should be watched closely to see if they are
getting supplies enough to live on. If they have no stores they should
be fe-d and there are two easy ways for the beginners. The first is to
place a pan on the top brood bars inside an empty super. In the pan

BEEKEEPING FOR .BEGINNERS. 19

put about two inches of syrup made by mixing sugar and water in
equal amounts by weight. A strip of cloth is placed across the pan,
touching the bars outside and the bottom of the pan inside. This
enables the bees to reach the syrup and carry it away Without danger
of getting drowned. The other way is to put the sugar syrup into a
two or three-pound friction top can. In the center of the can lid punch
three holes with a cigar box nail. Fill the can with syrup a11d put on
the lid. Now bore a half-inch hole through the. lid of. the hive and

place the can over this hole so that the syrup drips through into the

hive. Renew the syrup as often as it is necessary.
Szvairming.

With the advance of spring the colony builds up until the brood
chamber is full of brood and then unless some control measures are
used, the bees swarm. The old queen with her working force leave-s
the old hive, which becomes the property of the unemerged queen. The
majority of swarms cluster shortly after leaving the hive. As soon
as they cluster, bring a hive with either full she-ets of foundation or
comb in the frames and place near the swarm, cu.t the limb on which
they are clustered, and dump all the bees on the ground before the hive
using just a little- smoke to keep them moving. The bees will go into
the new hive and again cluste-r ; then the hive can be placed where it is
wanted. If the bees cluster on a post or part of a building, brush
them into a box and then dump before the hive. Bees sting but seldom
while swarming. As most beeke-epers desire honey and not colonies,
some form of swarm control should be practiced. _As the first pre-
caution against swarming, reverse the bottom boards giving the bees
5-inch opening as soon as the hive begins to build up, and put on a
super with drawn comb or full sheets of foundation as soon as the
majority of cells in the brood chamber are occupied by eggs, larvae, or
bee food. If you find brood in the super, put on another; the longer
you keep a queen laying the less likely you are to have a swarm. The
more bees you have in your hive the more honey they can gather, and
during a heavy honey flow and in late summer the bees will crowd the
queen back into the brood chamber so that all the supers can be
extracted. As these supers must be added, it will pay you to put on
the super early whether it prevents swarming or 11ot, for if you want
honey the bees must have room. Watch your supers and add a new
one as soon as the majority of cells in the last put on havehoney
deposited in them.

Szuarm Control.

The second method is perhaps the most reliable one known. As soon
"in the spring as the brood chamber is filled, add another brood chamber
and put half of the brood frames in the second story. Have the
frames in both stories in the central part of the hive. Fill the vacant
outside places with frames of emzpty combs or foundation. As the
time approaches for swarming spread the brood by alternating the full
frames with those put in the week or so before. A hive so treated
rarelyswarms if supers are supplied to it as soon as the two brood
chambers are well occupied. A stand that has been transferred in

  
  
  
  
   
  
   
   
   
 
  
   
  
   
 
 
  
 
 
 
    
  
  
  
   
  
   
   

20 A TEXAS AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION.

early spring rarely swarms that year. If you Wish honey, watch your‘
hives and see that there are always empty cells. Bees will swarm i,
there is no room for brood rearing, and they cannot store honey unles
the-re. is a place for it. Give bees plenty of room. "

SUMMER.
Extracting.

In early summer comes the beekeepers’ harvest. As soon as fram’
3.18 found sealed over, they should be removed, extracted, and returne
The process of extracting has already been described. The beginn
should not Wait until the- Whole ‘super is capped over. Go throng
your hives at least once a Week and take out all frames that are thrl
fourths or more sealed. If you Wait for the complete capping of th
super, the bees may be raising brood in it the next time you go throng,
the hive. The extracted honey, if intended for home use can be 
in glass or tin, and covered With a cloth to keep out dust. If the hon
is intended for the trade, it is Well to pack it in 2%, 5, and 10-p0u11
friction top cans. Honey packed in flint glass jars holding up to x
pounds, sells well, but one must get the price of the container "
addition to the price of honey and also enough to make good the 10'
by breakage. Extracting should be carried on as fast as the. w;
make the honey until the crop isall harvested. 

Shade and Ventilation.

Where an apiary is located permanently, the hives should be plac‘
on bricks or other indestructible objects. The hive bottom should A
at least four inches above the earth. The hive should be level cros
ways and slant slightly toward the entrance. Locate the hive so th
the summer sun Will not hit it, especially from 1 to 3 p. m. If t;
apiary is moved or no shade is at hand, shade boards will often sa
the life of a colony of bees. One of the most common accidents th
befall bees is the melting down of combs, which causes many bees y
drown in the honey and Wax, and to perish from lack of air, caus
by the stopping of the entrance with melted comb. _If one decides y
make permanent shade boards, one should take a piece of one-by-ten-in
board, three and a half feet long and to this nail shingles so that ‘thr
inches of the thick end of the shingle is on the edge of the board, 
rest extending at right angles to the length of the board. When -.
row of shingles has been nailed along both sides of the board one z;
a very light and eflicient shade. Lay this on top of the hive, extendi
a trifle farther to the south and West than elsewhere. When Win r
time approaches these shades should be packed away for the next yea .
use. The common opening of seven-eighths of an inch is not eno 
in the summer. If more ventilation is not given, bees continue 
swarm and will lay out most of the day in midsummer. Hives rai
by putting three-eighths-inch blocks between the bottom board H”
brood chamber give very good results. By the middle of Septem‘
these blocks should be removed and by December the three-eighths-in
entrance to the hive should be turned up. l

BEEKEEPING non BEGINNERS. 21 '

Fumigation for Bee Moth.

Summer is the period of the year when the bee moth Works rapidly.
All cappings should be rendered at once. Extracted or unused combs
should be put on a strong hive to protect th.em from the worms. If
combs are not replaced, they. should be racked up in brood chambers
or supers with an empty one on the top. In this one- put an un-
corked bottle containing a few ounces of carbon bisulphide or “high
life” or a like amount of crystals of para-dichlora-benzene in an open
container. Either of these poisons willcontrol the wax moth if an
air-tight cover is put over the top super and no large cracks exist in the
stack. Where the combs are to be kept long periods,. renew the poison
every month. The wax worm has been considered the greatest menace
to the beekeeper and so it is to the beeman who never cares for his bees,
but if one works his bees, and keeps his combs in the manner described
above he will be free from this trouble.

FALL.
Brood.

The fall season begins when cooling nights and shortening days tell
the bees that Winter is approaching. Brood is produced in large
quantities as the fall flowers bloom in profusion and the winter store
is made up of their strong flavored honeys. About September lst the
beginner should take off his last honey. All that is stored after that
time will be needed as winter stores by the colony. Great care should
be exercised to see that the queen and brood are in good shape. If
any colonies are queenless, requeen at once with an adult queen, or unite.

Dividing and Requeening.

It will be remembered that in one of the systems of swarm control
a two-story hive was made. If things went well, this hive has been
strong and a good producer and now has the two hive bodies well
filled with brood. This is the best time and the following is the
easiest way to make two colonies from it and to start on the next
season’s swarm control. Procure a good young queen, take a hive
bottom and extra brood chamber and a top to the side of the two-story
hive. Open the strong hive, take from each of the chambers half of
the frames showing the most sealed brood. Put all the unsealed brood
in the lower chamber of the old hive. In changing the location of
these frames do not attempt to brush or shake the bees from them, but
allow all bees adhering to the frames to go into the new brood chamber.
Be sure that the old queen is placed in the new hive. Introduce the
new queen into the old stand. The newly-made hive containing the
old queen should be removed to some other part of the yard. The field
bees returning to the old hive will find the introduced queen and with
their narrowed quarters will be able to raise sufiicient brood and pro-
vide abundant stores for the winter. It has been the experience of
those who have tried this system that a hive having a fall-introduced
queen rarely swarms the next year. The newly-made hive with its

22 TEXAS AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION.

stock of sea.led brood shortly hatches out and the old queen, after this
short rest, becomes active-again, so that this hive also goes into the
winter strong and with abundant stores. The next spring this hive
must have the brood divided as was explained under Swarm Control.
Where this system is carried out fully, strong colonies, large honey
production, and no swarming is the rule. If one does not Wish to
increase his number of colonies, one should requeen in the fall and
see that the two-story hive has a gross weight of about 90 pounds.

Stores.

Throughout the autumn season the bees should be Watched closely
and should a large honey flow occur a super should again be put on the
hive so that the bees will not fill the brood nest with honey. A brood
nest filled with honey means a very weak colony the next spring. On
the other hand if the fall is dry and hot with no honey flow, it will be

'to the advantage of the beekeeper to feed thirty-five or forty pounds

of sugar syrup or honey to the colony.

WINTER.
Protection.

When the Weather becomes so cool that the bees are no longer in
regular flight, remove from the hive all supers that do not contain
honey, see that all of the frames in the brood chamber are in good
shape and Well supplied with stores. The hive is now reduced to the
bottom board, brood chamber, and top. If this hive is now lifted and
found to Weigh approximately fifty pounds, the bees have suificient
stores for the winter. If the hive weighs less, it must be Watched and
fed, if to do so is found necessary. The hive should be placed facing
the south and in such a locality that the west and north Wind cannot
hit it and should be placed so that the entrance is high enough above
the ground that blowing dirt and leaves will not enter. Precaution
should also be taken that the hive is safe from damage by farm stock,
especially from hogs. If either forest orpfield fires are common in the
vicinity, see that the hives are placed in a location from which the
grass has been removed.

Care 0f Equipment.’

As the hives are being prepared for winter allcof the extra parts
should be put away very carefully in a dry place. The parts of hives
are small and cost but little money, but when they are neglected, the
loss is considerable. During the winter season all the equipment should
be cleaned, new foundation should be put in where needed, and any
new fixtures should be purchased and made ready for the spring Work.
Any honey that may have crystallized may be liquefied by being heated
in a double boiler. As much of the honey is not sold until mid-winter,
this operation becomes part of the winter work.

BEEKEEPING FOR BEeINNERs. i 23

ENEMIES AND DISEASES.

BEE MOTH.

   
  
   
   
   
   
 
    
  
 
 
 
 
 
   
  
 
 
 
 
 
   
   
   

._ This insect, so well known to the beekeeper as the grey worm, which
j‘»‘webs up” combs that are not on the hive and very frequently reduces
 hive to a mass of Web and dirt, is a mouse-colored moth in the adult
l/state. This flying insect will enter the hive unchallenged by the bees
and deposit her eggs. It is only after the eggs hatch that the bees will
attack this enemy. It was impossible to give- an idea of bee Work and
‘of the seasonal activities without fully describing the work of the bee
moth. This insect will cease to be a menace if the control measures
already given are closely followed, especially if one has ‘Italian bees.

ANTS.

Ants of various kinds, especially the Argentine ant, have the habit.

gbees. Where their nests can be easily located they can be destroyed by
the use of carbon bisulphide. In case the hive must be protected in
i: some other way, it is best to place the hives on benches so located that
i- nothing save the legs of the bench touches the ground; these legs should
T be placed in cans containing a small amount of crude oil. Another very
gysuccessful method is to make a band around each leg of the bee stand
lfwith a mixture of axle grease and coal oil. This sticky material will
remain soft enough for two or three months to stop any ant that
\. attempts to cross it. '

' FLIES AND SPIDERS.

__ Large robber or Asilid flies very often kill worker bees and are some-
1 times accusedof capturing queens. This loss is not noticeable because
jot the fewness and of the local distribution of these robber flies.
Spiders occasionally spin webs close to the hives and thus capture
> numerous bees. Certain small spiders hide in clusters of flowers and
iwhen the worker bees light they are caught and become food of the
 spider. ‘
‘ - ' BIRDS.

y. Beekeepers sometimes accuse birds of killing many of their bees.
1 The king bird or bee martin has this reputation. If one Qt these birds
ftakesup its abode near the apiary and persists in catching bees, use a
shotgun. In all of the investigations which the Biological Survey has-
f carried on it has been unable to find but very few remains of honey
bees in the stomachs of birds. Chickens very often form a habit of
catching bees. This is especially true where chickens are fenced in the
same yard with bees, and a grain feed only is supplied.

i: In order to protect the apiary from ‘farm stock a hog and cattle
=fence should enclose- the bee yard.

ACCIDENTS.

 The bee, like a human, is subject to accident, disease, and death.
{Natural causes bring about the death ot the worker bee in a few weeks
during summer. During the winter when there is little activity, a

< 0f entering beehives and carrying oit honey, bee bread, and even young~ _

- Entomologist

24 TEXAS AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION.

worker bee may live a number of ‘months. Queens have been known
to live as long as six years. Among the more common accidents which
cause death in the colony is that of drowning, resulting from the
melting down of the comb, caused by the lack of protection from the
sun; the suffocation of the bees results from the choking up of the
entrance to the hive by fallen comb, or the accumulation of dust or
mud from the outside. These accidents are largely the result of
ignorance or inattention on the part of the beekeepers.

DISEASE.

Poor housing, unsanitary conditions, and exposure to disease bring
about physiological conditions, the result of which causes the death of
bees. These results are known under the various names of American
Foulbrood, European Foulbrood, Be-e Paralysis, Pickle Brood, Sacbrood,
and the like. The liabilities to these troubles are greatly reduced when
the bees are- kept in modern movable frame hives and receive proper care.

CAUTION.

The beginner in beekee-ping will soon recognize when his bees are
working normally and when they are not. Should numbers of dead
larvae be found in the combs the beginner should not diagnose the case
himself, but consult an expert on bees. The State Entomologist, located
at College Station, should be consulted when a be-e disease makes its
appearance in the apiary. Because of the resemblance of certain of
these troubles, the beginner is very apt to be mistaken and very often
will follow the wrong method in trying to control the troubles. When
you are sick you call a doctor. If your bees get sick consult the State

INFORMATION.

No one should attempt to keep bees without subscribing for at least
one of the leading bee periodicals and having at hand one or more
text-books on apiculture. The paper will supply the addresses of queen
breeders, of dealers in bee supplies, and articles that will help the
novice over many a hard place. A good text-book is indispensable if
the beekeepe-r is prudent enough to take advantage of the other man’s
work and profit by others’ experiments instead of trying them all over
again. The following magazines are of the most interest in this State:

American Bee Journal, Hamilton, Ill.
Gleanings in Bee Culture, Medina, Ohio.
Texas Beekeepers’ Item, New Braunfels, Texas.

In the following list of books occur many that it will pay the
beginner to own, and he should not consider himself a beekeeper until
he has read the more popular ones. Addresses of publishers will be
found in the bee papers.

BEEKEEPING FOR BEGINNERS. 25

LIST OF BOOKS.

Comstock, Anna B.-—“How to Keep Bees.”

Cook, A. J .—-—“l\Ianual of the Apiary.”

Dadant, C. P.—“First Lessons in Beekeeping.”
Doolittle.-——“Scientific Queen Rearing.”

Hutchinson, W. Z._—“Advanced Bee Culture.”
Langstroth.—--“The Honey Bee.”

Miller, C. C.—“Fift.y Years Among the Bees.”

Miller, C. C.—“A Thousand Answers to Beekeeping Questions.”
Pellett, F. C.—“Practical Queen Rearing.”

Pellett, F. C.—-“Productive Beekeeping.”

Phillips, E. F.--“Beekeeping.” g

Root, A. T. and E. R.—-“A B C and X Y Z of Bee Culture.”

p All beekeepers and those interested should belong to the County
Beekeepers’ Association and if none should exist it will be to the
advantage of the new beekeeper to Write to the State Entomologist
relative to organizing.

When special problems and‘ troubles arise, when difficulties come,
or when definite information is wanted upon any subject relative to

“beekeeping, the Division of Entomology, Texas Agricultural Experiment _

Station. College Station, Texas, may be consulted. Letters of inquiry
are always Welcome.