THE LIBRARIES 
 COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 
 
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 /^ciu/ivi J'uOlMcdM'ajj.-'.'jygS I'vUni/urUvlSo-ccl 
 
TRAVELS 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 FRANCE, TURKEY, AND HUNGARY, 
 
 TO 
 
 VIENNA, 
 
 IN 1792. 
 
 TO WHICH ARE ADDED, 
 
 Several Tours in Hungary, 
 
 IN 1799 AND ISOO. 
 
 IN A 
 
 S>me0 of 3lemr0 to m ^imt in C^ttglauti. 
 
 BY 
 
 JVILLIAM HUNTER, ESQ. 
 
 OF THE INNER TEMPLE. 
 
 THIRD EDITION^. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 LONDON: 
 PRINTED FOK J. WHITE, FLEET-STREET, 
 
 BY T. BENSLZY, BOLT-COURT. 
 
 1803. 
 
<J^0^% 
 
 V 
 
 1396N 
 
 JUL 8 1953 
 
 Exchange 
 
ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 TO THE 
 
 FIRST EDITION. 
 
 HY these Travels were not pub- 
 lished sooner, or why they are pub- 
 lished now, is of so Httle consequence 
 to those who may do me the honour 
 of reading them, that I shall neither 
 waste their time nor my own by en- 
 tering into an explanation of my 
 reasons. All that is incumbent on me 
 to declare is, that they were written 
 on the spot whence the respective 
 letters are dated, and, with very tri- 
 fling variations, in the form which they 
 now wear. As far as regards the in- 
 formation which they contain, I have, 
 in every respect, adhered as strictly to 
 the truth as my own observation and 
 
IV ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 the intelligence of others have enabled 
 me. I am at the same time sensible, 
 how much a traveller through foreign 
 countries lies at the mercy of the 
 natives, and how liable he is to be 
 imposed on by their exaggerations. 
 After having said thus much, if it 
 should appear, that I have fallen into 
 any erroneous statement of facts, I 
 must hope that the candour of my 
 readers will attribute it to those mis- 
 representations which sometimes un- 
 avoidably mislead the most accurate 
 inquirers, and not to any wilful de- 
 sign to deceive. 
 
 London, 
 March 24, 1 7g6. 
 
ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 TO THE 
 
 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 The encouragement which the first 
 edition of this work received from 
 the Public, has induced me to ex- 
 ert every effort in my power to 
 render the republication of it more 
 worthy of their candour and patron- 
 age. I have had leisure to collect, 
 and arrange, several notes and obser- 
 vations, immediately appertaining to 
 the subject of these letters, which, 
 in the hurry of their first appearance, 
 were either very much abridged, or 
 totally omitted: and, where 1 have 
 had any suspicions respecting the ve- 
 
VI ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 racity of oral communications, I have 
 spared no pains in consulting authors, 
 on whose acknowledged credit and 
 authenticity, I was satisfied I might, 
 with security, depend. The notes, 
 which were already published, I have 
 been enabled, with a little alteration, 
 to incorporate with the text; and I 
 have embellished the present edition 
 with a portrait of the reigning grand 
 seignor, and a map of the countries I 
 visited, which, I trust, on examination, 
 will be found distinct and correct. 
 On the subject of French politics, I 
 have been obliged to make some tri- 
 fling additions, by way of explanation 
 to my sentiments which have been 
 misunderstood, or willingly misinter- 
 preted ; for I should be as sorry to be 
 considered the enemy of liberty, as 
 the friend of France: they are both 
 equally reproachful and degrading. 
 
ADVERTISEMENT. Vll 
 
 The promulgation of opinions ad- 
 verse to this gigantic republic is, I 
 know, considered by many as an ha- 
 zardovis act. It possibly may be ; 
 though I have no such fears. Her 
 malice is imbounded ; but her means 
 are not commensurate. Should these 
 enemies to the human race be adven- 
 turous enough to attempt the invasion 
 of this kingdom, I think I may venture 
 to predict, that they will be repelled 
 with ignominy and ruin. We have, 
 at present, a military force, more 
 than adequate to our defence against 
 any hostile power, and our seas are 
 protected by an unconquerable navy. 
 Independently of these bulwarks, 
 where is the man who is base enough 
 to sit still, and behold his country 
 ruined, his laws subverted, his pro- 
 perty pillaged, his friends, his parents, 
 his children, his wife, at the merciless 
 
Vm ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 disposal of a fierce and inexorable 
 band of professed savages, who unite, 
 to the infuriate zeal of barbarians, the 
 arts of civilization, and the knowlege 
 and discoveries of modern times. We 
 have had time to reflect, and, profit- 
 ing by that reflection, we shall know 
 how to act. We have had an oppor- 
 tunity of contemplating our enemy, 
 and of becoming acquainted with the 
 baseness of their views, and the ma- 
 lignity of their detestable principles. 
 They can no longer mislead us by 
 plausible promises, and metaphysical 
 arguments : our eyes are now open. 
 We both understand, and despise, 
 their new philosophy, and their new 
 liberty. They have convinced the 
 world, that the one is built upon 
 atheism, and the other is supported by 
 the most flagrant and opprobrious 
 tyranny. Wherever they have carried 
 
ADVERTISEMENT. i% 
 
 their desolating arms, pillage and 
 massacre have attended on their 
 march. They have dissembled first, 
 that they might plunder with security 
 after. Their smiles and their flattery, 
 wherever they have succeeded, have 
 been the forerunners of confiscation, 
 ruin, and death. I feel, from my 
 soul, for those unhappy countries 
 which are governed by French laws, 
 and galled by French chains — chains 
 which they have not now even the 
 charity to gild. Let Great Britain 
 look to Holland, to Italy, to Germany, 
 to Spain, to Switzerland, to any spot 
 of the known globe where either their 
 arms or their principles have pene- 
 trated, where they have come either 
 as professed enemies or professed 
 friends^ and, in their destiny, read her 
 own, if she does not act up to the 
 character she has hitherto sustained. 
 VOL. I. b 
 
X ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 Her history is almost the history of 
 laurels gained from France ; and I am 
 satisfied that she will, in this most 
 afflicting and desperate of all her 
 struggles, assert her former dignity 
 and prowess. Terrible as the French 
 have been to the rest of Europe, they 
 cannot injure us, if we oppose them 
 manfully and with sincerity. Some 
 have openly deserted the standard of 
 allegiance, and some have published, 
 both in the senate and from the hus^ 
 tings, doctrines and opinions highly 
 injurious to the interests of the 
 state. But these are few, compared 
 with the number who still remain 
 faithful and entire, and who, if the 
 contest should ever come to the last 
 melancholy crisis, will, I trust, have 
 energy to crush both their internal 
 and external foes. It is still a subject 
 which admits of much concern, and 
 
ADVERTISEMENT. xi 
 
 Stands in need of all our vigilance, 
 and fortitude, and virtue. We can only- 
 reason from the analogy of ordinary 
 events ; we cannot follow Fortune 
 in her eccentricities and aberrations. 
 These are critical and eventful times ; 
 and occurrences have happened, in the 
 course of this long and fatal warfare, 
 which have startled the most specu- 
 lative minds, and far outstripped the 
 wildest theories of conjecture. It is 
 also impossible to penetrate into the 
 all-wise and immutable decrees of 
 Providence, which frequently effects 
 its purpose by the most mysterious 
 means. But, whatever may be the 
 conclusion of this disastrous and pre- 
 carious period, it is my sincere and 
 fervent wish to abide by the fate of 
 my country; and I am confident that 
 I utter the sentiments of almost every 
 
XU ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 man who has the advantage of living 
 under the British constitution, when 
 I declare, that I have no wish to sur- 
 vive its duration. 
 
 London, 
 May 1, 1798. 
 
ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 TO THE 
 
 THIRD EDITION. 
 
 To the present edition of these Tra- 
 vels I have added several Tours in 
 Hungary, (commencing at page 219 of 
 the second volume) which were per- 
 formed, as will be seen by the dates, 
 in the years 1799 ^^^ 1800; and, as 
 many parts of that interesting coun- 
 try, which I have now attempted to 
 describe, have not, I believe, been 
 touched on by any other English au- 
 thor, I should hope that this addi- 
 tional matter will be favourably re- 
 ceived. 
 
 London, 
 April 20,1803, 
 
ITINERARY. 
 
 Name5 of Places. Posts. 
 
 From London to 
 
 Dover 
 
 Boulogne 
 
 Samers 
 
 Cormont . . , 
 Monireuil . . , 
 Nampont . . 
 Bernay .... 
 Nouvion . . 
 Abbeville 
 
 Ailly 
 
 Flixcourt . . , 
 Pecquigny , 
 Amiens . .. 
 Hebecourt . 
 
 Flers 
 
 Breteuil , . . 
 Wavigny . . 
 St. Just . . . 
 Clermont . . 
 Linguevilie. 
 
 Eng. 
 miles. 
 
 Days. Pvlths. Cursory Remarks. 
 
 73* T. 
 
 9 
 5 
 
 7t 
 H 
 
 5 
 
 7i 
 6i 
 6^ 
 
 7i 
 6 
 
 7i 
 6h 
 4i 
 
 9i 
 6 
 
 T. 
 
 Feb. 
 
 14 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 Arrived at Bou- 
 logne, after a pas- 
 sage of 12 hours. 
 We remained 
 there till 2 o'clock 
 the next day. 
 
 i; 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Dined. 
 Slept. 
 
 * With regard to the distances in English miles, I have always, when I 
 have had an opportunity, availed myself of Duten's Itinerary, which I 
 have found very useful, and, on the whole, extremely correct. It is a 
 ibook which every traveller ought to be in possession of. 
 
XVI 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 Names of Places. 
 
 Posts. 
 
 to ChanUlly . 
 Luzarches 
 Ecouen . , 
 5/. Denis . 
 Paris ... 
 
 ite 
 
 Charenton . . 
 Villeneuve . . 
 Lieursaint . , 
 Melun .... 
 Fonta'tnebleau 
 Nemours . . . 
 La Croisiere 
 Fontenay . . . 
 Puits-la-laude 
 Montargis . . 
 La Comraod 
 
 Nogcnt 
 
 La Bussiere 
 
 Briarc 
 
 Neuvy ..... 
 
 Cosne 
 
 Pouilly .... 
 La Charite' 
 Pougues . . . 
 Nevers . . . 
 Magny .... 
 iS^. Picrre-le- 
 Moulier . , 
 St. Imbert . . 
 Villeneuve . 
 
 MOULINS . . 
 
 Bessay 
 
 Varenne . . . 
 St. Gerand-le 
 
 Puy ... 
 La Palisse 
 Droiturier 
 
 
 Eng. 
 
 
 
 
 
 miles. 
 
 Days. 
 
 Mths 
 
 Cursory Remarks. 
 
 
 
 
 Feb. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 s. 
 
 18 
 
 Dined. 
 
 
 6i 
 
 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 F. 
 
 24 
 
 Arrived at Pa- 
 ris, where we re- 
 mained till the 
 following Friday, 
 
 
 37 
 
 
 
 
 J 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 7i 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 5i 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Slept. 
 
 
 Grj 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 n 
 
 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 s. 
 
 25 
 
 Dined. 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 
 
 9i 
 
 
 
 Slept. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 
 8A 
 
 
 
 Dined and slept. 
 
 
 7i 
 
 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 5i 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 M. 
 
 27 
 
 Dined. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 7i 
 
 
 
 
 
 51 
 
 
 
 Slept. 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 
ITINERARY. 
 
 xvu 
 
 
 
 Eng 
 
 
 1 
 
 Names of Places. 
 
 Posts. 
 
 mile 
 
 .. Days 
 
 • Mths 
 
 • Cursory Remarks. 
 
 to St. Martin 
 
 ; , 
 
 
 Feb 
 
 
 d'Estreaux - 
 
 V 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 La Pacaudiere 
 
 
 5h 
 
 
 
 St. Germain 
 
 ('l 
 
 
 
 
 
 Espinasse 
 
 6; 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 ROANXE . . . 
 
 L'Hopital . . 
 
 1 X 
 
 7i 
 
 5 
 
 ; T. 
 
 28 
 
 DineJ. 
 
 St. Syiaphorien 
 
 
 5i 
 
 
 
 
 La Fontaine . 
 
 
 7 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 Tarare 
 
 Les Arnas . . . 
 
 1 J 
 1 I 
 
 I 2 
 
 
 
 Slept. 
 
 LaTourdeSal 
 
 V 
 
 
 
 
 vagny . . . . 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 Lyon 
 
 n 
 
 7 
 
 w. 
 
 29 
 
 Arrived at Ly- 
 ons, where we re- 
 mained till Friday, 
 
 St. Fond .... 
 
 1 
 
 5i 
 
 
 
 
 St.Symphorien 
 
 1 
 
 6' 
 
 
 March 
 
 
 ViENNH, 
 
 Auberive .... 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 10 
 
 F. 
 
 2 
 
 Breakfasted. 
 
 Le Peage .... 
 
 1 
 
 4i 
 
 
 
 
 St Rambert . 
 
 i; 
 
 -*■ 2 
 
 7 
 7i 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 St. Vallier . . . 
 
 u 
 
 
 
 
 Tain 
 
 i\ 
 
 
 
 
 Valence 
 
 La Paillasse . . 
 
 Is 
 
 Hi 
 
 7 . 
 
 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Loriol 
 
 Ji 
 
 7 
 
 74 
 
 
 
 
 Laine 
 
 I'- 
 
 
 
 
 Montelimart . . 
 Donzere .... 
 
 ll 
 2 
 
 / 2 
 
 7 
 1 1 
 
 
 
 
 Pierrelatte . . . 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 La Palu ..... 
 
 1 
 
 (^ 
 
 
 
 
 Mornas 
 
 U 
 
 « 
 
 
 
 
 Orange 
 
 Courthezon . . 
 
 H 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 6 
 
 S. 
 
 3 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Avignon . . . 
 Remoulins . . , 
 
 3i 
 
 13 
 
 G. 
 
 4 
 
 Dined, 
 blept. 
 
 St. Gervasy . . 
 
 ^2 
 
 1 / 
 
 
 
 
 NiSMES 
 
 
 30 
 
 M 
 
 5 
 
 Dined. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
I T 1 N E R A R Y. 
 
 Names of Places. 
 
 to Curbossot 
 Tarascon . 
 
 St Remy . 
 Orgon .... 
 Le Pont Royal 
 St. Canat . . 
 
 Aix 
 
 LePin 
 
 Marseillb . 
 
 Posts 
 
 Posts. 
 
 iiiilLS. Days. Mths 
 
 
 139^ 
 
 40 
 
 IJlLO 
 
 Smyrna 
 
 11 
 11 
 12 
 10 
 10 
 
 Mnrch 
 
 T. 
 
 W. 
 
 SOU Miles. 
 
 Cursory Remarks. 
 
 30 
 
 April. 
 
 6 
 
 We were obliged 
 to sleep at Beaii- 
 caireon the other 
 side of the Rhone, 
 arriving there too 
 ate to cross the 
 river in the ferry- 
 boat. 
 
 Dined. 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Arrived at Mar- 
 seilles, where I re- 
 mained till the 
 following Tues- 
 day *. 
 
 Arrived at Ml- 
 lo, where I re- 
 mained tilltheSd 
 of April. 
 
 Arrived at Smyr- 
 na, where I re- 
 mained till the 
 25th. 
 
 * My principal view in noticing the places at which we dined and 
 slept, is to shew, in sonie measure, the rate at which we travelled, and to 
 point out our method of dividing our journey. 
 
ITINERARY. 
 
 Names of Places. 
 
 clours. 
 
 
 Days. 
 
 Mths. 
 
 Cursory Remarks. 
 
 
 
 
 April 
 
 
 From Smyrna 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 to Yakai * 
 
 3 
 
 
 W. 
 
 25 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Magnesia . . 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 
 
 Palamout .... 
 
 4 
 
 
 T. 
 
 26 
 
 Do. 
 
 Kalembeh . . . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Alkapana 
 
 ] 
 
 \V6 
 
 
 F. 
 
 V 
 
 Do. 
 
 (wood) .... 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 
 
 Geulgouck . . . 
 
 A 
 
 
 S. 
 
 28 
 
 Breakfasted. 
 
 Mendahoura . 
 
 S 
 
 
 
 
 Slept. 
 
 In a wood . . . 
 
 7 
 
 
 G. 
 
 29 
 
 Dined. 
 
 Chiltikui 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Maarlitch . . . 
 
 G 
 
 
 iM. 
 
 30 
 
 Dined. 
 
 Chatalaga . . . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 May 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Chechlrgui . . . 
 
 5 
 
 
 T. 
 
 1 
 
 Breakfasted. 
 
 Ekusa 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 Arrived at Brusa a- 
 bout mid-day, where 
 we remained ill the 
 next morning. 
 
 In a field . . . . 
 
 10 
 
 
 W. 
 
 2 Dined. 
 
 Yalova 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 Embarked at Yalova 
 about six o'clock ia 
 
 Constanti- 
 
 
 
 
 
 the morning, and af- 
 
 nople . . . . 
 
 
 
 T. 
 
 3 ter a sail of elevea 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 hours, arrived at Con- 
 
 Hours. 
 
 90 
 
 
 
 
 stantinople, where we 
 remained till the 10th, 
 
 We travelled from 
 Smyrna to Yalova, on 
 an average, at the rate 
 of about 3^ miles an 
 hour. The number 
 of hours we were on 
 horseback amounts to 
 ninety. The distance 
 must therefore be a- 
 
 bout 315 English 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 [miles f . 
 
 * Ail travellers, I observe, spell the names of the Turkish villages in a 
 different manner. 1 have adopted that which to my ear most resembles 
 the Turkish pronunciation. 
 
 f Not having a Pedometer v/ith me, I am obliged to truit to calculation. 
 
XX 
 
 I T 1 N E R A Fx Y 
 
 Names of Places. Days. Mths. Cursory Remarks 
 
 Ibrail 
 
 Scherbest 
 Peneo . . . 
 Serbenest 
 Suray . . , 
 FoJishan 
 
 Tirkukoli 
 Rimnick . . 
 Marachini 
 Buseo . . . 
 Marzinin 
 Craltza . . 
 Aformatzi 
 
 Delenibeh T 
 
 Valaleh W. 
 
 Cajarmari 
 
 Rassovat 
 
 Galatz W. 
 
 May 
 
 From CoNSTANTIN'OPLI- j \ 'T< 1Q 
 
 to Bujukdeic I / 
 
 Cavaina S. 1' 
 
 W. 
 T. 
 
 S. 
 G. 
 
 M. 
 
 T. 
 
 15 
 
 It; 
 
 J7 
 
 18 
 
 23 
 
 Jui: 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Arrived at Cavarn.i. 
 where we remained till 
 the 15th, 
 
 i-lept. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Arrived at Ra?;sovat, 
 where we remained till 
 the 20th. 
 
 From Cavarna to Ras- 
 sovat, we travelled about 
 seven hours a day, and 
 about three miles an 
 hour, — The intermediate 
 distance will therefore be 
 about 84 English miles. 
 
 At Ibrail our boat re- 
 mained at anchor all 
 night. 
 
 ArrivedatGalatz.w here 
 we remained till the 5th 
 of June. 
 
 Dined. 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Dined and slept. 
 
 Dined, 
 
 Arrived at Fokshan, 
 where we remained till 
 the 9th. 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Dined. 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Dined. 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Dined; 
 
 Slept. 
 
ITINERARY 
 
 XXI 
 
 Names of Places. 
 
 to BUCHO REST 
 
 Hour 
 
 Floresti . 
 Guyesti , 
 Petesti . . 
 Batcheski 
 Rimnic . 
 
 Luctri 
 Kineni 
 
 Days 
 
 Lazaretto ofj 7 
 Tour Rouge j" * 
 
 Hours 37 
 
 W, 
 
 M. 
 
 T. 
 
 W. 
 
 iVlths. 
 
 Cursory Remarks. 
 
 13 Arrived at Buchorest, 
 where we remained till 
 the 18th. 
 
 From Galatz to Bu- 
 chorest, reckoning seven 
 travelHng days at eight 
 hours a day and four 
 miles an hour, the inter- 
 mediate distance will a- 
 mount to 224 English 
 miles. 
 
 18 
 
 Slept. 
 
 19 Breakfasted. 
 
 20 ^ We were obliged to sleep 
 in our carriage at a small 
 village on the ea'stern side; 
 of the Alt, arriving too 
 late to pass the river in 
 the ferryboat. 
 
 Arrived at the Laza- 
 retto of lour Rouge, 
 where we were obliged 
 to perform a quarantine 
 of ten days. 
 
 From Buchorest toTour 
 Rouge, we travelled at 
 the rate of about siv miles 
 an hour. — The number 
 of travelling hours a- 
 
 mounts to 37. The 
 
 distance must therefore 
 be about 222 English 
 jmiles. 
 
xxu 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 Names of Places. Posts. Day;,. 
 
 From the Lazaretto of 
 
 Tour Rouge 
 to Hermanstadt 
 
 Magh 
 
 Reismark .... 
 
 J\Iullent>uch . . . 
 
 Schiboth 
 
 S-zasz-varos .... 
 
 Deva 
 
 Lesnek 
 
 I)obra 
 
 Croszed 
 
 Rossova 
 
 Faszed 
 
 Boschur 
 
 Lugos 
 
 Szinerszeg . . . . 
 
 Kesveres 
 
 Temeswar . . . 
 Klein Petzkeret 
 
 Czadat 
 
 Komlos 
 
 Mokrin 
 
 Klein Kanischa 
 
 Segedin 
 
 Szatmacy 
 
 Kistelch 
 
 Petery 
 
 Felegyhaza 
 
 Paka 
 
 Ketschkeraet . . 
 
 Foldeak 
 
 Oerkeny 
 
 Inares 
 
 Ocsa 
 
 Sarokfar 
 
 BUDA 
 
 Vorosvar 
 
 Dorrogh 
 
 Neudorf 
 
 Nesrauhl 
 
 \ 
 
 T. 
 
 Mths. 
 
 Cursory Remarks. 
 
 June 
 30 
 
 J"iy 
 
 Dined and slept. 
 
 3 Breakfasted and dined. 
 
 Dined and Slept, 
 
ITINERARY. 
 
 xxm 
 
 Names of Places. 
 
 Posts. 
 
 Days. 
 
 to Comorn 
 
 Ais 
 
 Gony 
 
 Raa^ 
 
 Hochstrass 
 
 "Wieselburg 
 
 Rakgendorf 
 
 Presburg 
 
 Altenburg 
 
 Rogelsbrun 
 
 Fischament , 
 
 Schwechat 
 
 WiEN 
 
 Posts 
 
 <Vom Vienna 
 Laxenburg . . 
 Windpassing 
 Gros-Hofelein 
 Oeclenburg . . . 
 Esterhaz .... 
 Wieselburg . . . 
 Hochstrass . . 
 
 Baal> 
 
 Comorn 
 
 BuDA 
 
 to 
 
 St. Andre 
 Vissigrade 
 JValzen . . 
 Dunakezy 
 BuDA . . . 
 Kerepes . 
 
 60; 
 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 
 H 
 
 3 
 
 H 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 5i 
 
 w. 
 
 T. 
 
 F. 
 
 F. 
 
 Mths. 
 
 July 
 
 Augt. 
 28 
 
 29 
 
 Sept. 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 Cursory Remarks. 
 
 Breakfastedanddined. 
 
 The number of Posts 
 from Tour Rouge to 
 Vienna amounts to 
 60§. Reckoning,on an 
 average, nine English 
 miles to each post, the 
 distance will be 544^ 
 English miles. 
 
 Dined. 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Dined. 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Dined. 
 
 Arrived at Buda, 
 where we remained 
 till the 1 0th of Sep- 
 tember. 
 
 Dined. 
 
ITINERARY. 
 
 Names of Places, 
 
 Bagh 
 
 Hatwan 
 
 Gyong)'osch . . 
 
 Kapolna 
 
 ILrlau 
 
 IMcszo Kovesd 
 
 Harsan 
 
 3VIisclikolz . . . 
 
 Diosgyor 
 
 Szikszo 
 
 Forro 
 
 Hidas Nemethy 
 Caschau .... 
 
 Jasso • . 
 
 Schinolnitz .... 
 
 Hegyen 
 
 Jgh 
 
 Leibilz 
 
 Gros Lomnitz . 
 Hradek 
 
 Gros Lomnitz 
 
 Leu1scha?i . . 
 Sans Souci . . 
 JGrchdorf . . 
 
 Berthot 
 
 Emeries .... 
 In a wood . . 
 Schmoln'itz . . . 
 
 Azilas 
 
 Akteleg 
 
 Tornalya . . . . 
 Rimazombath 
 
 Seleny 
 
 Gacs 
 
 Vamos 
 
 Vigles 
 
 Posts. 
 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 
 H 
 H 
 
 3 
 
 H 
 
 2 
 
 u 
 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 
 Dayc 
 
 w. 
 
 T. 
 
 F. 
 
 M. 
 T. 
 W. 
 T. 
 F. 
 
 Mth. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 10 
 
 Cursory Remarks. 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 1.5 
 
 16 
 1/ 
 
 19 
 
 22 
 
 23 
 24 
 25 
 26 
 27 
 
 28 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Arrived at SchmoJ- 
 nitz, where I re- 
 mained till the I5th. 
 
 Dined. 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Dined and slept. 
 
 Arrived at Hradek, 
 where I remained till 
 the ]Q[h. 
 
 Arrived at Gros 
 Lomnitz, where I re- 
 mained till tlie 22d. 
 
 Dined. 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Slept and Dined. 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Dined and Slept. 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Dined. 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Dined, 
 
 Slept. 
 
ITINERARY, 
 
 XXV 
 
 Names of Places. 
 
 Posts. 
 
 Days. Mths 
 
 Cursory Remarks. 
 
 Neusohl 
 
 Kremnil% 
 
 Stuben-baad . . . 
 
 Scheiftnitz 
 
 Bath 
 
 Vamos Sadany . , 
 
 Zelitz , 
 
 Kemend 
 
 Gra?i 
 
 Dorrogh 
 
 BUDA 
 
 Martin Wascho 
 Stuhlivehsenburg 
 
 Fured 
 
 Tihan 
 
 Fured 
 
 Stuhhveissenburg 
 BuDA 
 
 Vienna 
 
 Posts 
 
 From Vienna to 
 
 Presbuug .. 
 Acs 
 
 BuDA 
 
 Teteny 
 
 Ercsin 
 
 Adony 
 
 Pentele 
 
 Y'^hhvar 
 
 Paks 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 18 
 
 122 
 
 G. 
 
 W. 
 T. 
 
 G. 
 
 M. 
 
 T. 
 
 W. 
 
 T. 
 
 F. 
 
 Sept 
 29 
 
 Octr. 
 2 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 12 
 
 /13 
 14 
 
 \5 
 
 Ma 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 28 
 
 Arrived at Neusohl, 
 where I remained till 
 the 2d of Oct. 
 
 Dined and slept. 
 
 Breakfasted. 
 
 Dined and slept. 
 
 Dined and slept. 
 
 Dined. 
 Slept. 
 Slept. 
 Dined. 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Arrived at Buda, 
 where I remained till 
 January 9, 1800. 
 
 Reckoning, on an 
 average, nine English 
 miles to each post, 
 the distance inEnglish 
 miles will be lOpS. 
 
 Dined and slept. 
 
 Slept, 
 
 Arrived at Buda, 
 where mc remained 
 till the 2bth. 
 
 Slept. 
 
xxVi 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 Names of Places, Posts. Days 
 
 Tolmi 
 
 Seksard ... 
 Batha-Szek 
 Szecso .... 
 Mohacz . . . 
 Numid . . . 
 Funfkirchen 
 
 Siklos 
 
 Baranyavar 
 Laskafelt . 
 ^ssek 
 
 Vera 
 
 Vocova 
 
 Novosello . . . 
 
 Palanka 
 
 Futok 
 
 Petenvardein 
 
 Petska 
 !Neu Banosze 
 Sernlin 
 
 Panzova . . . 
 Ui Palanka . 
 Ogradina . . . 
 Orsova . . . . 
 Mehadia . . . 
 Bosloven . . 
 
 Saska 
 
 TVeissJiirchen . 
 Lagerndorf , 
 IVerschecz . . 
 Moravicz . . 
 Denta 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 \l 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 Mths 
 
 Mar 
 
 29 
 
 30 
 
 Aprii. 
 1 
 
 Cursory Remarks. 
 
 M. 
 
 T. 
 
 F. 
 
 S. 
 
 G. 
 
 M. 
 T. 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Arrived at Fiinf- 
 kirchen, where we re- 
 mained till the 1st of 
 April. 
 
 Arrived at Essek, 
 where we remained 
 till the 3d, 
 
 Slept and dined. 
 
 Arrived at Peter- 
 wardein where we re- 
 mained till the 7th. 
 
 Breakfasted. 
 
 Arrived at Semlin, 
 where we remained 
 till the 10th. 
 
 Slept. 
 Slept. 
 Dined. 
 Slept. 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Slept. 
 Breakfasted, 
 
ITINERARY. 
 
 xxvn 
 
 Names of Places. 
 
 Posts, 
 
 Days. 
 
 Mths. Cursory Remarks. 
 
 
 
 
 April 
 
 
 Scbebel 
 
 If 
 
 
 
 
 Tcmcfwar 
 
 Arrived at Temes. 
 
 
 
 
 
 war where we remain- 
 
 
 
 
 
 ed till the ISth. 
 
 Monostor 
 
 H 
 
 F. 
 
 18 
 
 Breakfasted. 
 
 Arad 
 
 U 
 
 
 
 Dined and slept. 
 
 Mezzo-Hegyes . . . 
 
 2 
 
 S. 
 
 19 
 
 Dined and slept. 
 
 Oroshasa 
 
 2 
 
 G. 
 
 20 
 
 
 Sentesch 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 Cscl;ongrad 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 Petery 
 
 U 
 
 
 
 
 Ketschkemet 
 
 3 
 
 M. 
 
 21 
 
 
 BuDA 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Arrived at Buda, 
 
 
 where vi^e remained 
 
 
 
 
 
 till the 25th. 
 
 Vienna 
 
 18 
 
 G. 
 
 27 
 
 
 Posts 
 
 117 
 
 
 
 Reckoning, on an 
 average, nine English 
 miles to each post, the 
 distance in English 
 miles will be 1053. 
 
 ERRATA 
 
 IN VOL II, 
 
 p. 310. 1. s.yor 8th. r&ad 3d. 
 p. 326. 1. 10. for 7th, read zd. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 FIRST VOLUME. 
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 Introductory matter Page i 
 
 LETTER II. 
 
 Passage from Dover to Boulogne. . Anecdote of a 
 lusty gentleman <3 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 Total change of manners in France. . Knowles's hotel 
 .. Boulogne, . Journey to Paris. . Difference in the 
 mode of travelling from that observed in England 
 • . Montreuil. . Abbeville. . Amiens. . State of the 
 manufactures. .The cathedral. . Clermont. . Beggars 
 . , Particular account of one. . Chantilly. . St. Dennis 
 • . Arrive at Paris , 1 1 
 
XXX CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 Paris . . Confinement of the king . . Palace and gardens 
 of the Thuilleries. .The Louvre . . Coffee-houses . . 
 Violence of parties. . Comedic Italicnne. .The queen 
 , . French actors and actresses. . Distinctions between 
 a London and a Paris mob . . Inhumanity of the 
 Parisians exemplified in a particular instance . . Na- 
 tional Assembly . . Mirabeau . . Church of St. Gene- 
 vieve . . Place Victoire . . Louis i4th 25 
 
 LETTER V". 
 
 Leave Paris . . Melun . . Fontainebleau . . The palace . . 
 Game . . Fishponds , . Montargis . . Briare. , La Cha- 
 rite . . Pougues . . Nevers . . Physician . . Hospitality 
 in what it consists . . Moulins . . Steel manufactory 
 , . Influence of beauty . . Tomb of the duke of Mont- 
 morenci . . Roanne . . Tarare 44- 
 
 LETTER VI. 
 
 Description of Lyons and its environs . . Place deBel- 
 lecourt . . Hotel de Ville . . Jesuits college . . Library 
 belonging to it . . Abbey of Aisnay . . Monastery of 
 Carthusians . . Barbarous treatment of the monks , « 
 
CONTENTS. xxxi 
 
 Convent of Carmelite nuns . . Distress of the ab- 
 bess 55 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 Leave Lj^ons . . Vienne . . Pontius Pilate . . Tain . . 
 Orange . . Antiquities of that place . . The circus . . 
 Triumphal arch . . Avignon . . Number of ecclesias- 
 tics . . Disorders there . . The pope . . Church of the 
 Penitens Noirs . . Laura and Petrarch . . Pont du 
 Gard . . Nismes . . Description of that city . . The 
 amphitheatre . . Barbarous zeal of Charles Martel . . 
 Maison Carrte . . The Tour Magne . . Beaucaire . . 
 Tarrascon .. Incivility and imposition of our land- 
 lord . . Provence distinguished for its republican spi- 
 rit . . Orgon . . Insolence of the post-master . . St. 
 Canat..The country infested with robbers.. Aix 
 . .The cathedral. . Roads to Marseilles in a dreadful 
 state . .Beauty and fertility of the country, .Arrive 
 at Marseilles 66 
 
 LETTER VIII. 
 
 Description of Marseilles and its environs . . Civil dis- 
 sensions there 89 
 
XXXll CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 
 Climate of Provence . . Marseilles . . Tiic new town . . 
 The old town . . Language of Provence . . The Trou- 
 badours . .Degeneracy of the French stage . . Revo- 
 lution in France . . Character of the French and 
 English contrasted <)[) 
 
 LETTER X. 
 
 Passage from Marseilles to Smyrna. . Unpleasantly 
 situated on board a French vessel . . Malta . . Cape 
 Matapan. . Inhabited by a race of pirates . . Chased 
 by a piratical vessel . . Cowardice of our captain . . 
 Cerigo . . Arrive at Milo . . Description of that island 
 and its inhabitants . . Hospitality of a priest. .Vast 
 quantity of mineral substances .. The harbour.. 
 Anecdote of a Venetian captain . . Inhumanity of 
 pirates . . Leave Milo . . Tino . . Nicaria . Paros . . 
 Naxos. .Delos . .Sailing in the Archipelago de- 
 lightful , . Scio . . Description of that island . . The 
 mastich. . Chesme . . Naval engagement there. . 
 Mitylene .. Enter the gulph of Smyrna. .Marine 
 castle .. Situation of Smyrna . . Arrive there , , i2i 
 
CONTENTS. XXXlll 
 
 LETTER XI. 
 
 Smyrna . . Its inhabitants . . Its trade, particularly with 
 Great Britain . . Necessity of a lazaretto in England 
 . . Armenians and Jews act as brokers . , Character 
 of the Armenians . , Their clergy . . Porters . . De- 
 scription of the city. .The police . . Few antiquities 
 at Smyrna . . The river Meles . . Camels . . The plague 
 . . Account of that disorder . . Indifference of a Turk 
 . . The precautions which the Franks adopt, a great 
 security against it, .Hospitals. .Anecdote of two 
 Russian doctors . . Environs of Smyrna . . Teos . . 
 . Bournabat . . Sailing in the bay . . Provisions . . Cli- 
 mate . . Appearance and productions of the country 
 ..Ephesus 156 
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 Leave Smyrna . , Society of that place. . The Casino. . 
 Mode of travelling in Turkey . . Preparations ne- 
 cessary for our journey . . Yakai . . Road over Mount 
 Sipylus . . Magnesia . . Obstinacy of one of our driv- 
 ers . . Palamout . . Inhospitality of that place . . Fine 
 view of Kircagatch . . A place of considerable trade 
 . . Cotton grounds . , Anecdote of an aga called Carra 
 Osman Oglou , . Sleep on the confines of a wood . . 
 VOL. I. e 
 
XXXIV CONTENTS. 
 
 Meet a Turk and his wife travelling . . Geulgouck . , 
 Description of the coffee-houses in Turkey . . Low 
 cunning of a Turk. .Description of the Turkish 
 villaofes . . Badness of the roads . . Mendahoura . , 
 Astonishing number of storks . , Holden in great 
 veneration by the Turks . . Make a repast in a wood 
 . .The pleasures of a pastoral life . . Meet the courier 
 from Constantinople . . Regulations of the post in 
 Turkey . . A pacha encamped before a village . , 
 Ruins of an aqueduct . . Arrive at Maarlitch . . La- 
 ment not visiting the shores of Troy 206 
 
 LETTER XIII. 
 
 Maarlitch . . Its situation and extent . . Change onr 
 horses • . Description of the one allotted to me , . 
 Leave Maarlitch . . Ruins of a castle . . Northerly 
 wind . . Turks shout to keep themselves w^arm . . 
 Anecdote of one of our mule drivers. . Pass a beau- 
 tiful lake . . Nightingales . . Description of the baths 
 at Chechirgui . . Curiosky of the people . . Anecdote 
 of our janizary . . Arrive at Brusa . .Description of 
 that city and its manafaetwres . . Silk . . How it was 
 introduced into Europe .. Moschs and college^.. 
 Bazars . . Politeness of a Jew . . Indolence of the 
 Turks . . Account of the ramazan or Turkish lent . . 
 Caravansaries . . Curiosity of a Turk , , Leave Brusa 
 
CONTENTS. XXXV 
 
 . . Description of a beautiful view . . Pass an arm of 
 the sea, where some Turks are building a ship . . 
 Travel all night . . badness of the road . . Arrive at 
 Yalova . . Embark there . . Arrive at Constantinople 
 . . The sea of Marmara 236 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 
 Description of Constantinople. . Extent of the city . . 
 Its various revolutions, .The hippodrome. .Throw- 
 ing the jirid, a favourite amusement of the Turks . . 
 Obelisks and brazen pillar in the hippodrome . . 
 Mean revenge of Mahomet IT. . . The moschs . . St. 
 Sophia 266 
 
 LETTER XV. 
 
 Description of Constantinople continued . . Moschs . . 
 The harbour . . Dragomans . . Procession of the grand 
 seignor . . The seraglio . . Its internal government . . 
 Magnificent fountain . . Mausoleum of the late sul- 
 tan . . Ceremonies of the Turks at the interment of 
 their dead.. Burying places .. Castle of the Seven 
 Towers ., Subterraneous building. . Hans and mo- 
 nasteries . . Baths and coffee-houses . . Galata . . Pera 
 . . Principal bazar . . Degraded state of the arts . . 
 The slave market,. Account of this shameful traf- 
 
x:[(:xvi contents. 
 
 fie. The Turks extremely jealous of their women 
 . . Seldom allow them to go abroad . . Their occu- 
 pations at home . . A Turk may legally possess four 
 wives . . Pernicious consequences of this law . . Their 
 marriage ceremonies . . The Turks consider their wo- 
 men as an inferior race of beings . .Do not exclude 
 them from paradise . . Frequent intrigues at Constan- 
 tinople . . Attended with great danger . . On our re- 
 turn from the bazar obliged to hang up our coats in 
 the open air.. The emperor's country seats. .His 
 kiosk . . Fond of water expeditions . . Magnificence 
 of his barges . . Clumsiness of the ships of war . , 
 Turks inexpert sailors.. The police of Constantin- 
 ople well regulated . .The environs of Constantinople 
 . .Belgrade and Bujukdere. . Grand seignor's horses 
 , . Aqueduct built by Justinian . . Turkish aqueducts 
 . .Dine at Mr.Tooke's at Belgrade. . Beauty of the 
 wood . . Parties of Greeks assemble there . . Enter 
 Pera by night . . Moschs illuminated during the ra- 
 mazan . , Astonishing number of dogs in the streets 
 . . Anecdote of one . . Trade and society of Constan- 
 tinople . . Number of foreign ambassadors . . Their 
 splendour and ceremony . . Tendours , . Dine at Sir 
 Robert Ainslie's . . Entertainment at the Polish am- 
 bassador's . . Franks seldom seriously insulted . . 
 Turks very much afraid of the Russians . . Ita- 
 
CONTENTS. XXXvil 
 
 Han language prevails in Turkey more than the 
 French 280 
 
 LETTER XVI. 
 
 Scutari, the ancient ChrysopoHs . . The principal 
 rendezvous of the Armenian and Persian merchants 
 , , The canal . . The various currents of the Bospho- 
 rus . . The old and new castles • , Beautiful land- 
 scapes on the banks of the canal . . Leander's tower 
 . . Bujukdere . . Embark on board a Greek vessel . . 
 Entrance of the Euxine . . Cyaneau rocks., Pom- 
 pey's pillar . . Description of the Euxine . . Our 
 wretched accommodations at sea . . Both the Turks 
 and Greeks miserable sailors . . Pass Varna . . De- 
 sperate battle fought there . .Anchor in the bay of 
 Cavarna. .Tomis, the place to whicli Ovid was ba- 
 nished. . Land at Cavarna. . Accommodations for tra- 
 velling in Bulgaria . .Two of our guides quarrel. , 
 Wretched state of the villages . . Frequently obliged 
 to sleep in the same room . . Inhabitants of the 
 country savage and inhospitable. .Tyranny of the 
 pachas . . Appearance and productions of the coun- 
 try 331 
 
 LETTER XVII. 
 
 Arrive at Rassovat . . Our disappointment . . Ruinous 
 state of Rassovat . . Poverty of the inhabitants . . 
 
XXXVlll CONTENTS. 
 
 Difficulty in procuring lodgings . . Swarm with mus- 
 chetoes and fleas . . German cook . . Make an agree- 
 ment with the master of a Greek vessel to carry us 
 to Galatz . . Rassovat near the spot where the Goths 
 crossed the Danube . . Environs of Rassovat . . 
 Manner of navigating boats on the Danube . . Go- 
 vernor pays us a visit . . Embark on board our boat 
 for Galatz . . Our misfortunes . . Arrive at Ibrail . . 
 Rejoicings there on account of the termination of 
 the ramazan..The bairam, or Turkish easter.. 
 Mirth and jollity of the Turks at that season . . Our 
 sailors leave us, but return early the next morning 
 . . Pachas of three tails . . Description of our con- 
 finement and sufferings whilst on the Danube., 
 Arrive at Galatz 356 
 
 LETTER XVIII. 
 
 Effects of our hunger . . No tidings of our Greek ves- 
 sel . . Procure a decent house . . Description of Ga- 
 latz.. Taken by the Russians , .Their cruelties.. 
 Account of a Greek renegado .. Greek dance and 
 musicians .. Women marry very young.. Bess- 
 Arabia.. A field of battle .. Galatz ceded to the 
 Turks , . Number of Jews established there . . Pro- 
 visions of the country . . Walk to a lake . . Arrival 
 of our Greek vessel , . Dine at the governor's , . Ac- 
 
CONTENTS. XXxIx 
 
 count of the entertainment . . Tutor to his sons . . 
 ImmoraHty of cheating at cards , . Preparations for 
 leaving Galatz . . Dissipation of the inhabitants . . 
 Account of Moldavia.. The king's birth-day.. 
 . . Chief advantage of travelling to Englishmen 374 
 
 LETTER XIX. 
 
 Leave Galatz . . Our caravan . . Prince of Moldavia's 
 officer. . Cheapness of travelling. . Climate cold and 
 inconstant . . Sural, its beautiful situation. . Arriveat 
 Fokshan .. Description of that place. .Foolish jea- 
 lousy of the princes . . Dreadful battle fought there 
 . . Wrestling match between two of our guides . . 
 Fertility of the country which surrounds Fokshan 
 . . Pompous entry of a pacha of three tails . . Go- 
 vernor visits us.. Account of a Greek christening 
 . . Officer of the prince of Walachia arrives . . The 
 method of procuring lodgings for travellers . , 399 
 
TRAVELS 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 FRANCE, TURKEY, &c. 
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 London, Feb. 13, 1792. 
 
 My dear Eliza j 
 
 1 FEEL myself much flattered 
 by your earnest and repeated solicitations 
 that I would transmit to you an account 
 of the tour which I commence to-morrow. 
 Were I to resist any longer, I should give 
 proofs of an obstinacy very incompatible 
 with my feelings, and assume a conse- 
 quence to which I am by no means entitled 
 
 VOL. I. B 
 
2, TRAVELS 
 
 And I consent with less reluctance, from 
 a conviction that your candour will make 
 a liberal allowance for the defects with 
 which it may abound, and that your parti- 
 ality, if it induce you not to approve, will 
 at least prevent you from condemning, that 
 plan of communication which, after some 
 reflection, I have at length determined to 
 adopt. 
 
 It is not my intention to enter into a 
 minute detail of every thing which may 
 excite my curiosity in the course of my 
 travels. What I shall see, has been seen 
 before ; and when you are desirous of ob- 
 taining more particular information than I 
 shall convey, there are many books to 
 which you may refer with satisfaction. To 
 be continually describing the exact height 
 of an obelisk, or the scrupulous dimensions 
 of an amphitheatre, is not only a tedious 
 task to the writer, but renders the narrative 
 dull, and, generally, uninteresting. These 
 elaborate delineations may, indeed, be use- 
 ful to the architect, and may be pored over 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 3 
 
 with enthusiasm by the antiquarian ; but 
 they will not be relished by the mind of 
 delicacy, sentiment, or taste. If, therefore, 
 I should ever investigate with such precise 
 iaccuracy ; if I should ever note down the 
 measurement, or expatiate on the propor- 
 tions, of any particular structure, my only 
 view will be to impress you with a just 
 estimation of some of those stupendous pro- 
 ductions of antiquity, which neither the 
 injuries of time, nor the ruder assaults of 
 man, have yet been able to destroy. I do 
 not, however, propose to bind myself down 
 by any fixed rules. My digressions will 
 probably be numerous, and, as my incli- 
 nation prompts me, I may yield to the 
 dictates of reason ; or indulge in the specu- 
 lations of conjecture ; or be seduced by the 
 allurements of imagination. 
 
 If this plan be desultory, I have only 
 sketched it out, because 1 conceive that it 
 will afford you more entertainment than 
 any other : for there is an irresistible charm 
 in variety which carries the feelings lightly 
 along, and which, not unfrequently, more 
 
4 TRAVELS 
 
 than compensates for the absence of quali- 
 ties whose intrinsic merits admit of no 
 comparison. 
 
 Yours, &c, 
 
THROUGH FRANCE, 
 
 LETTER II. 
 
 Boulogne, Feb. 15, 1/92. 
 
 Yesterday morning, at ten o'clock, 
 we set sail from Dover with a fair wind ; 
 but had not proceeded on our voyage above 
 a couple of miles, when our fortune forsook 
 us. The sky, which, but a few minutes be- 
 fore, was bright and serene, became overcast, 
 and every symptom portended a tedious 
 and uncomfortable passage. The wind 
 blew so directly from Calais, that it was in 
 vain to attempt to reach the place of our 
 destination, and the captain informed us, 
 that, imless we consented to anchor at Bou- 
 logne, we must inevitably pass the night in 
 his vessel. Although some of the passen- 
 gers were under the necessity of visiting 
 Calais, they chose rather to incur the in- 
 convenience of being landed twenty miles 
 from it, than to run the risk of remaining 
 
6 
 
 TRAVEtS 
 
 all night at sea, without refreshments, and 
 in a place where the accommodations were 
 not likely to invite repose. Swayed, there- 
 fore, by these considerations, we unani- 
 mously agreed to go to Boulogne. 
 
 At ten o'clock at night we were nearly 
 two miles from the harbour, with no pros- 
 pect of advancing much farther, on account 
 of the shallowness of the water (the tide 
 being out), when two boats passed us with 
 great rapidity. One of them, shortly after, 
 brought to, and, coming along-side our 
 vessel, offered to carry us ashore. The 
 proposal was too enticing not to be readily 
 accepted ; and, in a few minutes, all the 
 passengers, who were sixteen in number, 
 had, by some means or other, found their 
 way into the boat. Fortunately it was 
 large enough to contain us ; for had it been 
 but half the size, no entreaties would, I 
 believe, have restrained our impatience, or 
 have prevailed on any one not to quit the 
 packet, where we had been confined so 
 long, and suffered so much. 
 
THROUGH FRANCE, 7 
 
 We had just arranged our baggage, and 
 taken our seats, when the other boat over- 
 took us, and its owners were very desirous 
 of receiving some of us on board ; but we 
 were all too languid to undergo the exer- 
 tion of a second change of situation. As, 
 however, wc had but two rowers with us, 
 we intimated a wish that they should con- 
 tribute their aid, and tow us into port. This 
 motion our heroes considered, I fancy, as 
 an insulting attack on their skill ; for they 
 rejected it with scorn, replying, that they 
 knew their duty as seamen, and required 
 no assistance. We yielded ; but the other 
 boat was hardly out of sight, when we 
 had ample reason to condemn our blind 
 confidence. 
 
 By this time the strength of our men 
 was nearly exhausted, and, soon after, we 
 found that the alternate ebb and flow of 
 the tide had driven us on some rocks. The 
 night was dark ; the wind tempestuous . 
 the sea high ; and, to crown our comforts, 
 it rained plentifully. We now inquired, 
 with solicitude, how long it might be before 
 
5 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 they could land us ; but these fellows, who 
 were fishermen, and whose sole occupation, 
 for many years past, had been that of sail- 
 ing along the coast near Boulogne, to our 
 great surprise, could not even inform us 
 where we were. We deplored their stupi- 
 dity, but our misfortune was without re- 
 medy, and our patience was obliged to sub- 
 mit. One moment riding on a boisterous 
 wave, the next bumping on an inhospitable 
 rock, our danger evidently increased, and 
 we, at length, began to be alarmed about 
 our situation. 
 
 After a short consultation, we resolved 
 to make a general shout, in hopes of being 
 answered from the shore ; but it was without 
 effect. About half an hour later, our boat 
 beginning to fill with water, and our im- 
 patience and apprehension augmenting, we 
 exerted our lungs a second time, and sent 
 forth a most vigorous but discordant yell, 
 which was responded in such similar tones, 
 that they might easily have been mistaken 
 for the echo. Unpleasant to the ear as 
 these vocal sounds most assuredly would 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 9 
 
 have been on any other occasion, they were 
 then Ustened to with delight, nor could the 
 most melodious strains have yielded a more 
 satisfactory entertainment. We regarded 
 them as the forerunners of relief, and were 
 not disappointed in our conjecture; for, in 
 a few minutes, our boat was surrounded 
 by a troop of women, who, by the light of 
 a lanthorn, after wading above a quarter of 
 a mile through the water, had discovered 
 us. You may, possibly, be conjecturing 
 what women could have to do, up to the 
 knees in water, at such an unseasonable 
 hour ; but, in this polished part of the world, 
 the office, of carrying passengers from the 
 boats to the shore, is allotted to the female 
 sex. 
 
 There was with us a very corpulent gen- 
 tleman, who, having suffered a good deal 
 from his confinement, was particularly 
 anxious to avail himself of the conveyance 
 with all possible expedition. In this view 
 he pressed forward to the head of the boat ; 
 but no sooner had one of these Amazons 
 approached, and surveyed his bulk, than she 
 
 VOL. I. C 
 
16 TRAVELS 
 
 turned her back towards some lighter bur- 
 den. He was left the very last, when an 
 elderly matron, who had certainly lived 
 long in the world without gaining much 
 experience, was intrepid enough to venture 
 to receive him on her shoulders ; but when 
 she had accomplished little more than half 
 her journey, she was so oppressed with fa- 
 tigue, that she let him fall into the water. 
 Not being able to speak a word of French, 
 he vented his rage by uttering a few Eng- 
 lish oaths, expressive of Gallic awkwardness, 
 which were neither attended to nor under- 
 stood. In this dilemma, his conductress 
 deserted him, and he was obliged to follow 
 her to the inn on foot. 
 
 A good supper soon drove away all un- 
 pleasant sensations, and every one had some 
 little anecdote to relate which contributed 
 to promote conviviality. Thus it is, the 
 remembrance of past misfortunes and em- 
 barrassments serves to enhance the pleasure 
 of present comfort and security. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
THROUGH FRAI^CE. II 
 
 LETTER 111. 
 
 Paris, Feb. l-Q, 1 792, 
 
 Those sensations, which are generally 
 experienced by Englishmen on their arrival 
 in France for the first time, occasioned by 
 a sudden and total change of customs, lan- 
 guage, and dress, were felt by me near 
 eight years ago. I well recollect that then, 
 every thing I beheld appeared like a dream, 
 nor could I immediately reconcile the con- 
 clusions of my reason with the evidence of 
 my senses. The contrast, in this respect, 
 having lost its novelty (and my mind anti- 
 cipating what was to happen), was by no 
 means so striking. But when I witnessed 
 and contemplated, that total revolution of 
 sentiment and manners which little more 
 than three years have accomplished, I was 
 almost equally surprised. The brow of the 
 aged was lowering ; the cheek of the young 
 
a TRAVELS 
 
 was not clothed with its accustomed cheer- 
 fulness ; in short, that gaiety of heart, which 
 had so long been the enviable characteristic 
 of Frenchmen, was no longer apparent. A 
 thoughtfulness, an anxiety, was visible in 
 every countenance, and the effects which 
 proceed from the actual sufferings of poverty 
 and distress, and the anticipated evils of 
 calamities still more dreadful, were openly 
 betrayed. 
 
 From the moment I set my foot in 
 France, specie completely vanished, and 
 nothing but paper, issued according to pre- 
 sent exigency, and without any substantial 
 fund to support its credit, was to be seen. 
 
 I whispered to my friend Hayes * j 
 Affairs cannot remain long in this deplorable 
 state ; for what people, that has once tasted 
 happiness, can voluntarily relinquish it, or 
 be persuaded to submit to a change of go- 
 vernment which must terminate in misery 
 and degradation ? 
 
 But I shall delay the discussion of politi- 
 
 * This Gentleman accompanied me from London to 
 Marfeilles. 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 13 
 
 cal topics, until I have collected sufficient 
 materials to enable me to deliver my senti- 
 ments w^ith some degree of accuracy and 
 decision. 
 
 On our arrival at Boulogne, we put up 
 at Knowles's hotel, imagining, from a na- 
 tural and honourable predilection which 
 our countrymen so generally feel, that, as 
 it was an English house, we should be less 
 liable to imposition. But I was a good 
 deal morrified to find, that the charges 
 which were made were very far from con- 
 firming this favourable opinion. They 
 were exorbitant in every respect ; and we 
 were obliged to pay, for the hire of a car- 
 riage to Paris, as much as ought, in fair 
 dealing, to have purchased it. I am at a 
 loss to conceive how any person, who lives 
 by the favour of the public, can be so 
 foolishly blind to his interest, as to carry on 
 his business, on a system of plunder. All 
 his calculations of gain must prove fallacious, 
 and it must, in the end, turn out an un- 
 profitable plan ; for travellers do not easily 
 forget, or forgive, bad usage, and are usu- 
 
14 TRAVELS 
 
 ally, sufficiently careful not to put them- 
 selves, a second time, in the power of a 
 landlord who has pillaged them once. 
 
 Boulogne is a large city, with strong 
 fortifications, rather well built than other- 
 wise, and contains about thirty thousand 
 inhabitants, ten thousand of which are na- 
 tional guards : such is the ardour for mili- 
 tary fame which at present pervades France ! 
 The din and confusion of arms have sup- 
 planted the peaceful pursuits of commerce, 
 which were, till lately, carried on with con- 
 siderable assiduity and success. The vigilance 
 of our government had,however, already lop- 
 ped off one of its most prolific branches, and 
 the English smugglers, who, a few years back, 
 paid annually to the people of this place, 
 between three and four millions of livres, 
 have, at present, little or no intercourse 
 with it. 
 
 After an early dinner on the 15th, wc 
 began our journey towards Paris, not, as we 
 had been travelling in England, in a neat 
 post-chaise with a dapper postillion and a 
 pair of nice horses, all properly equipped ; 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. I5 
 
 but in a ponderous vehicle with four shabby 
 little nags fastened to the carriage by 
 ropes, and a clumsy fellow to drive them, 
 with a flannel night-cap on his head, a pipe 
 in his mouth, and a pair of jack boots, 
 weighing between thirty and forty pounds, 
 dangling at the sides of his saddle. 
 
 We passed through Montreuil just as it 
 was beginning to grow dusky. Whilst 
 they were changing our horses at the post- 
 house, half a dozen drunken soldiers, in the 
 national uniform, whose vociferations we 
 had heard from some distance, surrounded 
 our carriage rather tumultuously, exclaim- 
 ing, " Voila des aristocrates!" We assured 
 them, that, on the contrary, we were Eng- 
 lishmen, and sincere patriots. These last 
 words satisfied them, and they civilly wished 
 us a pleasant journey. I mention this 
 anecdote to convince you that the aristo- 
 cratical party is still regarded as an object 
 of jealousy and persecution ; and had we 
 turned out, what they at first suspected we 
 were, we should probably have met with 
 some rough treatment. 
 
l6 TRAVELS 
 
 On the 1 6th, we slept at Abbeville, 
 which, after Amiens, is the largest city in 
 Picardy. It is populous and well fortified, 
 and carries on a considerable trade, particu- 
 larly in broad cloth, the manufacture of 
 which is in high repute. 
 
 On the 17th, we stopped to dine at 
 Amiens, which is a large, handsome, and 
 strongly fortified city, standing in a pleasant 
 situation on the banks of the Somme. The 
 streets are wide and regular, the squares 
 spacious, and the houses substantially built. 
 
 Very extensive woollen manufactures 
 were, till lately, established in this place ; 
 but almost every branch of trade has re- 
 ceived a fatal shock ; and such is, at present, 
 the small demand here, for the productions 
 of peaceful industry, that upwards of 
 twelve thousand poor artisans are without 
 employ, bitterly lamenting those convul- 
 sions which have deprived them and their 
 families of bread, and cursing those agents 
 whose folly or wickedness has thrown every 
 thing into confusion, and completely de- 
 ranged the economy of social life. 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. I^ 
 
 Whilst dinner was preparing, I went to 
 see the cathedral, which is one of the most 
 magnificent Gothic buildings in the king- 
 dom. The outward appearance is still the 
 same ; but, since the neglect of religion, 
 and the persecution of the priests, the in- 
 ternal splendour of the French churches has 
 been fast declining ; and all the most costly 
 decorations, which formerly enriched and 
 embellished this, have been removed by 
 the sacrilegious hand of some pubHc plun- 
 derer. Nothing that could be turned to any 
 kind of profit has been regarded, by these 
 disinterested rulers, as an unfit object of 
 possession ; and with a zeal, in exact pro- 
 portion to their relative intrinsic value, have 
 the saints in the churches been melted down, 
 and the crucifixes on the road converted 
 into firewood. 
 
 No sooner does your carriage stop, in 
 any town or village in France, than it is 
 immediately thronged with beggars, who 
 earnestly implore your relief. Since the 
 revolution, the number of these unhappy 
 petitioners has been considerably augmented 
 
 VOL. I. D 
 
iB TRAVELS 
 
 At Clermont, one man in particular at- 
 tracted our notice. Even his companions 
 in misfortune seemed to be anxious for the 
 success of his application, and, in their con- 
 cern for his miseries, to forget their own. 
 He was really an object worthy of compas- 
 sion. Every feature of his face was dis- 
 torted, and the pallid languor, by which 
 his countenance was suffused, too strikingly, 
 I fear, portrayed the measure of his suffer- 
 ings. Yet there was a kind of placidness 
 in his deportment which, at intervals, ex- 
 punged the picture of woe, the accumulated 
 afflictions of many years had been contract- 
 ing and confirming, and which warranted 
 one to say : — That man, however defective 
 he may be in other respects, possesses a 
 good heart. He interested our feelings 
 very much; and, inquiring into the cir- 
 cumstances of his fortune, we found that, 
 in addition to all his other calamities, his 
 reason was impaired. How the sympa- 
 thetic breast is torn by the review of such 
 complicated misery ! If the mind be vigo- 
 rous, all corporeal infirmities may be con- 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. i^ 
 
 templated with philosophy, and borne with 
 fortitude: but, when mental imbeclhty 
 unites with bodily disease ; when the grand 
 mound which separates, and distinguishes, 
 man from the brute creation is levelled ; 
 the prospect is too afflicting to behold. 
 Happy, indeed, is it, that the sufferer is un- 
 acquainted with the severity of his lot; for 
 the thorough conviction of a derangement 
 of intellect, must, I think, be the most 
 terrific torture that can enter into the 
 imagination of man. 
 
 When, my friend, we observe that every 
 corner of the habitable world teems with 
 wretchedness, and furnishes instances of 
 humiliation, how thankful ought he to be, 
 who is blessed with the full enjoyment 
 of all his faculties ! how careful to avoid 
 an improper application of them ! how 
 studious to improve and extend their various 
 powers ! A peaceful mind strengthens the 
 body ; a healthful body invigorate? the 
 mind ; and as it is our duty and our interest 
 to avoid, as much as possible, both bodily 
 pain and mental perturbation, we ought; 
 
50 TRAVELS 
 
 never to allow ourselves to neglect those pre- 
 cautions or remedies which administer to the 
 advantage of either. But although it be 
 incumbent on us to pay a sufficient atten- 
 tion to the body to preserve its health and 
 activity, it is the mind which demands our 
 principal care and solicitude ; for that is 
 the base on which the superstructure of 
 happiness or misery must ultimately repose ; 
 the salient source of every permanent satis- 
 faction or regret, of every real enjoyment 
 or mortification through life. When it has 
 been once habituated to virtue ; when it 
 has been cultivated with industry, and pro- 
 perly stored with knowledge ; a man may 
 then, and tJien onfyy consider himself inde- 
 pendent. He will be respectable in every 
 situation, and the inexhaustible fund of 
 amusement and consolation which he pos- 
 sesses within himself, will cheer and sup- 
 port his heart under the heaviest afflictions 
 that can befall him, will mitigate his suf- 
 ferings on the bed of sickness, and yield 
 him society amidst the horrors of a dun- 
 geon. Riches and rank may be lulled by 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 51 
 
 the soothing accents of purchased adula- 
 lation ; but talents and merit will meet 
 with demonstrations of true respect, and 
 be gratified with the voice of manly praise. 
 They attach a kind of stability to our for- 
 tune, which is secured from the perils of 
 every shock, and place us, in a manner, be- 
 yond the reach of fate. They learn us to 
 view with jcontempt, or to bear with mag- 
 nanimity, the poison of malice, the cold- 
 ness of indifference, or the undisguised at- 
 tacks of force ; and enable us to be undis- 
 turbed spectators, amidst the ruinous dis- 
 pensations of death, and the most awful 
 conflicts of nature. 
 
 Before our carriage drove off from Cler- 
 mont, we ordered the postillion to give 
 something to this poor unfortunate man. 
 He could just understand us, and returned 
 a look of gratitude which spoke more feel- 
 ingly to the heart, than all the graces and 
 refinements of studied elocution. 
 
 On Saturday we dined at Chantilly, and 
 arrived here yesterday. 
 
ZZ TRAVELS 
 
 The delightful palace and gardens of 
 the prince of Conde, I saw when I was 
 last in France. They were then the resi- 
 dence of peace, the repository of taste, and 
 the elegant retreat of an illustrious family. 
 At this moment, the estate is sequestered, 
 and its owner in exile. Although it is 
 still open to the inspection of the public, 
 I felt no inclination to revisit it, in its pre- 
 sent state ; for I am little disposed, to re- 
 ceive any satisfaction from traversing the 
 abode of spiritless dejection, nor have I a 
 mind so unhappily constituted as to relish 
 that brutal pleasure which arises from the 
 contemplation of fallen greatness. 
 
 I am told that many things have been al- 
 ready totally demolished, and that others arc, 
 from absolute neglect, mouldering fast to 
 decay. The game too, which was so abun- 
 dant, whilst it was preserved for the diver- 
 sion of the prince, has, since his retreat, 
 been persecuted by the peasantry with such 
 unremitting zeal, that it is totally destroyed. 
 Such will ever be the blind fury of the 
 multitude ! Whenever a privilege is granted 
 
THROUGH FRAA'CE. 2i2 
 
 which their happiness does not require, and 
 from the exercise of which they can derive 
 no soUd advantage, they will never rest till 
 they have annihilated it, by exhausting the 
 source which supplies the means of enjoy- 
 ment. 
 
 Before we reached Paris, we stopped 
 at St. Denis, where there is a noble church, 
 which is also remarkable for being the 
 burial-place of the kings of France. Some 
 of the monuments are very magnificent, 
 and the treasure was formerly one of the 
 richest in Europe ; but the vessels of gold 
 and silver, the saints studded with diamonds, 
 and the celebrated onyx vase, have all shared 
 the same fate. 
 
 On entering the metropolis and the other 
 great cities we passed through, we were not 
 incommoded or delayed by the troublesome 
 visitations and inquiries of impertinent 
 custom-house officers, whose frequent in- 
 trusions used to be a great drawback on 
 the pleasures of travelling in this country. 
 This was an abuse, at the abolition of 
 which every one must rejoice, as their 
 
54 TRAVELS 
 
 services answered no good purpose, and 
 were only a frivolous pretence for keeping 
 a set of undeserving dependents in pay. 
 
 The roads through Picardy (for I shall 
 adhere to the ancient division of France) 
 are generally good. The country is open, 
 level, and well cultivated, and its principal 
 production is wheat. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
THROITGH FRANCE. 5^ 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 Paris, Feb, 23, 1 ygij 
 
 During our residence in this over- 
 grown and populous city, so great has been 
 our desire of employing our time to the 
 best advantage, that even the severity of 
 the coldest and most unpleasant w^eather 
 you can v^ell imagine, has not been able 
 to keep us within doors. What a strange 
 inquisitive being man is ! When his curi- 
 osity is once on the wing, no trouble ap- 
 pears repulsive, no obstacle insurmountable; 
 but he levels, in his imagination, the road 
 which is to conduct him to the conclusion 
 of his wishes, and allows no intermediate 
 difficulty to check his inclination, or deter 
 him from his pursuit. 
 
 Anxious to behold the place of the king's 
 confinement, our first walk was to the 
 palace of the Thuilleries. We stopped to' 
 
 VOL. I. E 
 
26 TRAVELS 
 
 examine the wing next the river, and our 
 conductor began his observations by point- 
 ing out to us the four places, at one of 
 which, it is conjectured, the unfortunate 
 Louis made his escape, when he fled from 
 his capital. Three of them are now 
 strongly barricaded, and the other is blocked 
 up. Since that fatal period, some national 
 guards have been constantly stationed at 
 the windows of his apartment, who, as if 
 they gloried in insulting the feelings of a 
 fallen monarch, seemed emulous of ren- 
 dering themselves as conspicuous as pos- 
 sible. 
 
 The gardens belonging to this palace arc 
 extensive, and are well planted with spread- 
 ing trees which divide them into several 
 pleasant walks, where the Parisians assemble, 
 and enjoy themselves, in the evenings of 
 the summer months. The external mag- 
 nificence of the building is uncommonly 
 striking; yet, from the silent gloominess 
 which hovers round it, one would little 
 suspect it to be the actual residence of the 
 first magistrate of a great empire. 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 57 
 
 That too much money was formerly 
 dissipated in maintaining the splendour of 
 the French court, every one will readily 
 admit : and as millions were not created 
 to satisfy the profuseness, or administer to 
 the caprices, of one man, it was proper that 
 an extravagance, which was highly detri- 
 mental to the interests of the community, 
 should receive a check, and be compressed 
 within narrower limits. But, on the other 
 hand, few will contend, that, whilst a king 
 sits on the throne, and forms an essential 
 branch oi the constitution, a nation should 
 not generously contribute to his support, 
 and be even jealous of the invasion of that 
 dignity which is suitable to the importance 
 of his office, and the elevation of his rank. 
 For the generality of mankind is so guided 
 and determined by the immediate impres- 
 sions which they receive^ through the or- 
 gans of sense, that they are incapable of 
 entering into abstract and speculative 
 points, or of carrying their observations to 
 remote consequences. Not knowing how 
 to distinguish between plainness and insig- 
 
;38 TRAVELS 
 
 nlficancc, they annex to exterior shew a 
 real and substantial importance ; and, with 
 them, when once the outward forms of 
 that pomp and parade, which they have 
 been taught to venerate, are abolished, re- 
 laxation of respect, if not total indifference, 
 will speedily ensue. 
 
 On our return home, we passed through 
 the Louvre, and had the mortification to 
 see that noble structure, on which such 
 immense sums have been lavished, and 
 which is considered as one of the finest 
 specimens of architecture which modern 
 times have produced, in a state of rapid 
 decay. The roof of one of the fronts has 
 fallen in, and it is passed every day by thou- 
 sands of people, who view it with as much 
 unconcern, as if it only exhibited the wreck 
 of some miserable hut. If Louis the XlVth 
 were to rise from the dead, and behold his 
 favourite palace in this neglected and ruin- 
 ous condition, how the blood would boil 
 in his veins ! Fortunate, perhaps, might it 
 have been for the country, if his active and 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 2^ 
 
 lofty spirit had animated the latent good 
 quaUties of the present monarch. 
 
 The whole city is split into parties, and, 
 at the corner of every principal street, the 
 glaring letters of some inflammatory hand- 
 bill invite the eye. All the coffee-houses are 
 crowded with pretended politicians, who, 
 according to their various prejudices, vent 
 the noxious torrent of their fury ; and 
 groups of hirelings, half intoxicated, are 
 every where bawling out their national airs. 
 Even at the theatres, places which were 
 instituted for sober relaxation and rational 
 amusement, the boisterous voice of faction 
 intrudes itself, and cannot be silenced. The 
 aristocratical party, however, has lately, 
 after a severe struggle, evidently gained 
 ground, and is now sufficiently respectable 
 to venture to avow itself. 
 
 A few nights ago, we went to the 
 Comedle Italknne, where we were tolerably 
 well entertained. Caius Gracchus was 
 represented; a tragedy which abounds with 
 the language and spirit of republicanism. 
 The merit of the actor, who performed the 
 
30 TRAVELS 
 
 principal character, was not very striking ; 
 but the plaudits, which were showered 
 down upon him when he repeated a line 
 in praise of liberty, were not easily appeased ; 
 whilst many, in another part of the house, 
 cheered the consul with marks of their 
 approbation, when he delivered a sentence 
 expressive of the importance of good order, 
 and the necessity of preserving the different 
 ranks of society. And although the mani- 
 festations of these were generally over- 
 powered by the shouts and hisses of the 
 opposing demagogues, it was not without 
 a violent contest. At the conclusion of 
 the play, a most farcical incident occurred. 
 Gracchus, who, but a few minutes before, 
 had died on the stage of his wounds, was 
 loudly called for, nor did the clamours of 
 the pit subside till he made his appearance; 
 when, after being gratified with repeated 
 bursts of applause, he was again permitted 
 to retire to the gloomy mansions of the 
 dead. 
 
 The preceding evening, the queen, ac- 
 companied by the dauphin, honoured this 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 3 I 
 
 theatre with her presence, of which we 
 unfortunately were not apprized till it 
 was too late to go. Yet although curi- 
 osity would certainly have led me to at- 
 tend, I should not have beheld her with 
 any pleasure; for I saw her many years 
 ago, when she w^as still in the zenith of 
 beauty; when she was the admiration and 
 delight of every beholder ; and when all 
 who approached her vied with each other 
 in tokens of applause and respect. An 
 uninterrupted series of heavy afflictions 
 has been long preying on her charms, and, 
 I am told, has strangely altered her. The 
 animation of her countenance has flown, 
 the lustre of her eyes has vanished, and she 
 now bears the deep-traced furrows of fixed 
 despondency and premature old age. The 
 box in which she sat was not distinguished 
 irom any of the others by the most trifling 
 decoration. It is, however, said, that 
 she was tolerably well received, and that 
 some few, who refused to take off their 
 hats when she entered, were treated with 
 indignation, and were, at last, compelled 
 
33 TRAVELS 
 
 to obey the reiterated cries of an incensed 
 audience. 
 
 The poor queen of France, so lately an 
 object of envy ! Who can reflect on her 
 sudden reverse of fortune, on her unmerited 
 sufferings, on the savage insults to which 
 she has been exposed, without being 
 struck w^ith that entire change of senti- 
 ment and opinion which, at present, agi- 
 tates, and directs, the minds of this fickle 
 people ? Those, who once idolized the 
 charms of beauty and the pomp of royalty, 
 are now become their bitterest persecutors. 
 The age of chivalry is, indeed, gone with 
 iJie7n, and with it, all those milder and 
 more rational virtues by which it was 
 supplanted. Chivalry was an enthusiasm 
 which, as it espoused the cause, and as- 
 serted the rights, of unprotected innocence, 
 and female youth and beauty, was highly 
 serviceable to the state of society under 
 which it prevailed. It sprang from a 
 noble and generous source, and was the 
 principal instrument which tended to 
 humanize the manners of a fierce and 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. ^^ 
 
 unlettered age. A gradual alteration ixx 
 laws, in professions, in ideas, at length,, 
 rendered the spirit of the institution use- 
 less. When the ardour for military glory- 
 abated, and men began to relinquish the 
 tumultuous pursuits of war for the more 
 useful avocations of peaceful industry ; 
 when the legislature had acquired suffi- 
 cient energy to extend its protection to 
 the humblest members of the community; 
 the bands of lawless aggressors dispersed, 
 and the services of those honourable cham- 
 pions were no longer required. Knight- 
 errantry withdrew from the scene of ac- 
 tion, and the sex, through every class of 
 society, received the just and voluntary 
 tribute of admiration and esteem. Where- 
 ever this rational respect, towards those 
 who constitute so great a portion of our 
 happiness, has never obtained, it is a 
 proof that a people has made but very 
 small advances in the reasonable and ob- 
 vious refinements of social life : wherever 
 it has once obtained, and is beginning to 
 subside, it is a proof that they have lost 
 
 VOL. I. F 
 
34 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 all regard for chastity and morality, and 
 are totally corrupted by the brutal allure- 
 ments of shameless and licentious vice. 
 
 The peculiar fate of this unfortunate 
 family has excited an interest in every 
 humanized breast. Our feelings are alive 
 in proportion as their fate was unforeseen ; 
 and although there are, no doubt, calami- 
 ties to which the loss of external grandeur 
 is as a fleeting shade, yet, such are our 
 prejudices, that we cannot help taking 
 into our estimate of the afflictions endured, 
 the trifling appendages of fortune and 
 rank, and apportioning our compassion, in 
 some degree, to the once splendid elevation 
 of power and wealth. 
 
 In this immense city, where every thing 
 seems to be moving with a rapidity that 
 allows no time for reflection, the French, 
 in spite of their domestic troubles, still 
 retain their natural inclination for gaiety 
 and dissipation, and the theatres and other 
 places of public resort are always thronged 
 with spectators. Their actors and actres- 
 ses, in particular lines, have considerable 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 35 
 
 merit. In comedy they are quite at their 
 ease, and fill their characters with a natu- 
 ral grace, which those of other nations 
 have, in vain, attempted to imitate. They^ 
 however, as widely misconceive the true 
 spirit of the tragic muse; and the finest 
 compositions of their best authors are 
 generally spoiled by a violence of decla- 
 mation, and an impetuosity of action, 
 which may represent the ungovernable 
 fury of a maniac; but which are totally 
 foreign from the tender expression of that 
 settled, serious sorrow, which is calculated 
 to excite our interest, and leave a lasting 
 impression on the heart. Their operas 
 are superbly splendid in scenery and deco- 
 ration, and their management of the me- 
 chanism of the theatre is w^onderfuUy ex- 
 pert; but their genius for music is as 
 perverted, as their taste for dancing is 
 refined. 
 
 There is, in almost every respect, ^ 
 striking distinction between a London and 
 a Parisian mob ; and in no particular, per- 
 haps, is it more marked, than in the gene^ 
 
36 'i'RAVELS 
 
 rous philanthropy of the one, and the 
 hardened indifference of the other, towards 
 objects of real distress. Instances to prove 
 this are, in both cities, occurring daily ; 
 and, during my short residence here, a 
 very remarkable one came under my own 
 immediate observation. In the course of 
 one of our rambles, we fell in with a poor 
 man who had dropped down in the middle 
 of the street, in a fit of epilepsy, where he 
 Was suffered to remain, quite unheeded, in 
 strong convulsions. The passengers were 
 numerous, but no one approached to his 
 relief, or even had the charity to remove 
 him from the danger of being crushed to 
 death by the carriages which wxre con- 
 tinually passing. You can scarcely conceive 
 how I was shocked with this proof of 
 more than savage indifference, for if we 
 had not fortunately been thrown in his 
 way, this poor fellow would, in all proba- 
 bility, have lost his life. We immediately 
 bribed the callous breasts of his country- 
 men, and had him conveyed to a neigh- 
 bouring coffee-house, and attended to, nor 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 2>1 
 
 is any praise due to us for fulfilling so evi- 
 dent and natural a duty. Benevolence, 
 thank God, is still the companion of the 
 heart, and any man of common humanity 
 could have done as much. 
 
 Yesterday morning we went to the 
 national assembly, and never were my 
 expectations more thoroughly disappointed. 
 Instead of that decent solemnity with 
 which one naturally conceives that the 
 public affairs of a great nation are con- 
 ducted, it only exhibited a scene of vulgar 
 riot and confusion ; and I can compare 
 their proceedings with nothing more aptly 
 than with those of an English alehouse, 
 where every one talks and nobody listens ; 
 but with this difference, that more noise 
 was made because more members were 
 present. The president called to his aid 
 all the arts of gesticulation and grimace, 
 to preserve order, and inspire respect, with- 
 out gaining the desired end. Over and 
 over again, he had recourse to the bell, 
 whose solemn tone is the symbol of his 
 authority ; but even the energetic vi- 
 
38 TRAVELS 
 
 brations of that gra?id political engine, awful 
 as they were, could not appease the vio- 
 lence of the storm. Fifty orators started 
 up at the same moment, all equally eager 
 to deliver their sentiments ; and when any 
 one, after mature deliberation, was named 
 by the president, such a constant buz pre- 
 vailed through the hall, that it was almost 
 impossible to catch a word which fell from 
 his lips. But this is not much to be won- 
 dered at, since the auditors in the galleries 
 are permitted to argue aloud with each 
 other, and to testify marks of their appro^ 
 bation and censure. 
 
 When the king visits the assembly, the 
 president graciously condescends to allow 
 him to sit on his right hand, but no other 
 mark of distinction is permitted to be shewn. 
 Such is the deference which is now paid 
 to royalty in France ! 
 
 Having observed, for about half an hour, 
 the proceedings of this tumultuous meet- 
 ing, we withdrew, with very little incli- 
 nation to return. In the constituent as- 
 sembly, there wxre several men of distin- 
 
THROUGH FRANCE* 
 
 39 
 
 gulshed talents and enlarged views : some 
 few are reported to lie concealed in this ; 
 but their exertions are so overpowered by 
 the licentious indecency of the majoritv, 
 that they are incapable of rendering their 
 country any service. The celebrated Mi- 
 rabeau, so conspicuous for his genius, his 
 eloquence, his eccentricities, and his vices, 
 and respecting whom posterity will form 
 such various opinions, is gone before that 
 tribunal where his character will be impar- 
 tially weighed, and his merits equitably 
 rewarded. His death is generally lamented 
 by the populace, as well as by many think- 
 ing and well-disposed men, and not, per- 
 haps, unreasonably. He had, by the fasci- 
 nating splendour of his talents, acquired a 
 decided ascendency over all his cotempo- 
 raries; and I am inclined to think, that, 
 convinced of the fatal errours which had 
 been committed, and of the absurdity of 
 the plans which had been adopted, he 
 secretly leaned to a moderate and practi- 
 cable system. If his views were honest, 
 he certainly might have accomplished a 
 
40 TRAVELS 
 
 great deal. He might have awakened the 
 people from their illusion ; he might have 
 exposed the tricks which have been prac- 
 tised to ensnare them ; and he might have 
 been one of the principal coadjutors in that 
 most glorious of all works, the compilation 
 of a rational, efficient, and just code of 
 laws. 
 
 Our next walk was to the church of 
 Ste. Genevieve, which is one of the no- 
 blest structures in Paris, and is destined to 
 receive the remains of those who may, in 
 future, be thought entitled to the gratitude 
 of the state. The ashes of Voltaire and 
 Mirabeau, which were conveyed thither 
 with the most ridiculous and ostentatious 
 parade, are, for the present, deposited in a 
 vault, and the monuments are to be erected 
 when the money can be spared. Over the 
 porch of this church is inscribed in letters 
 of gold, " Aux grands hommes : la patrie 
 reconnoissante ;" a sentence which, al- 
 though consisting but of six words, is as- 
 serted by many to be deficient in point of 
 grammatical accuracy. This, however, I 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 4^ 
 
 shall leave to French grammarians to 
 settle. 
 
 The Place Vktoire, where Louis the 
 XlVth was, by the vanity of his subjects, 
 for so many years, crowned with laurels 
 which he never gained, is crowded every 
 morning with brokers and Jews, whose 
 business is to buy up specie with assignats. 
 They are said to be employed by some 
 eminent Paris bankers, who are unwilling 
 that their names should be made public. 
 In clandestine transactions, there are always 
 grounds for suspicion. In these, I under- 
 stand that the offers which are made are 
 very low, and that the full exchange is 
 never to be expected. The statue of the 
 king, with all the fulsome emblems which 
 surrounded it, has been removed, and a 
 simple pyramidical pillar erected in its 
 place, on which are to be recorded the 
 triumphs of the new constitution. The 
 veil is at last rent which concealed the 
 real character of Louis from the judgment 
 of his country. All the obsequious and 
 venal efforts of cotemporary writers, hired 
 
 VOL. I. G 
 
42 TRAVELS 
 
 for praise, have not been able to weave a 
 web sufficiently strong to obscure the vices 
 and meannesses of this narrow-minded 
 despot. History, sooner or later, performs 
 her office, and the time at last arrives when 
 flattery no longer attempts to dignify the 
 infirmities of our nature, and fear no longer 
 suppresses the voice of truth. 
 
 Paris, on the whole, as a city, is exces- 
 sively dirty, and but indifferently built. 
 The streets are irregular and narrow, and, 
 from the want of a side pavement, the foot 
 passengers run the risk of being crushed to 
 death by the carriages which are continually 
 passing, and are driven with great fury. 
 Many very elegant and magnificent struc- 
 tures are, however, dispersed through dif- 
 ferent parts of the town ; and the Palais 
 Royaly two or three of the squares, some 
 of the principal hotels, and a few of the 
 streets which have been lately built, are 
 extremely grand and ornamental. With 
 regard to the churches, palaces, cabinets 
 of curiosities, and collections of pictures 
 and statues, these are not the times to see 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 43 
 
 them. Many of them indeed which, for- 
 merly, were the just pride of their pos- 
 sessors, and the dehght and admiration of 
 strangers, have already been plundered by 
 the avarice of the government, or have 
 fallen a sacrifice to the savage and indiscri- 
 minate fury of a misguided populace. 
 To-morrow we set off for Lyons. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
44 TRAVELS 
 
 LETTER V. 
 
 Lyons, Feb. 29, 1793. 
 
 After a pleasant journey from 
 Paris, we arrived here this afternoon at 
 three o'clock, and drove immediately to 
 the Hotel de Milan, where we find our- 
 selves extremely well accommodated. 
 
 A few stages beyond Paris, we stopped 
 to change horses at Melun, a large town, 
 pleasantly situated on the Seine, which 
 forms an island within its boundaries. Two 
 handsome bridges are thrown over the 
 river, and the castle and two or three of 
 the principal churches are worth noticing. 
 It is well peopled, and the inhabitants 
 carry on a considerable traffic in corn 
 flour, wine, and cheese. 
 
 When we reached Fontainebleau, the 
 evening was just beginning to set in, which 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 4^ 
 
 prevented us from seeing the king's palace 
 to any advantage ; and obliged us to hurry 
 through it, w^ithout allowing ourselves 
 time to examine, even the pictures with 
 accuracy. The building, which consists 
 of several piles, erected at different times, 
 in the disposal of which no regard has been 
 paid to the rules of symmetry, has a stately 
 appearance, rather on account of its extent 
 than from the materials of which it is 
 composed. Many of the apartments, 
 which, collectively, are said to amount to 
 the astonishing number of fifteen hundred, 
 of differerit dimensions, are furnished with 
 magnificence and taste, and the chapel is 
 universally admired. What, however, 
 principally attracted our attention w^as the 
 gallery of Francis the First. It is of a great 
 length, and, in the days of that munificent 
 and splendid prince, was frequented by his 
 court as a morning parade. One side of 
 it is lined with small recesses, which were 
 then fitted up as shops, where the most 
 elegant and costly goods were displayed. 
 . The noblemen purchased these expensive 
 
4^ TRAVELS 
 
 articles, and presented them to the ladies : 
 a proof of the profusencss and gallantry of 
 the times ! 
 
 The French kings have for many cen- 
 turies made use of this castle as a hunting 
 seat ; and the forest, which surrounds it, 
 and contains within its limits near thirty 
 thousand acres of well planted land, is 
 stocked with every species of game. Since 
 the epoch of liberty, some of the peasantry 
 have been audacious enough to attempt to 
 take the pleasures of the chace within 
 these domains; but the spirited resistance 
 of the inhabitants of the town, who still 
 preserve some respect for the memory of 
 their king, has hitherto proved successful. 
 
 In the ponds, near the palace, there are 
 some carp of an astonishing size and age. 
 None of them are ever allowed to be caught 
 or molested ; and, from the protection and 
 indulgence which are constantly shewn 
 them, they are become so domesticated, 
 that they follow you, in shoals, as you walk 
 along the margin, and will even eat bread 
 out of your hand. 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 47 
 
 The day after we left Fontalnebleau, we 
 passed through Montargis, w^hich is situ- 
 ated on the banks of the Loing, a small 
 distance from the spot where the cele- 
 brated Orleans canal forms a junction 
 with that river. The country which sur- 
 rounds it is pleasant, and well stocked 
 with wood. 
 
 A few stages farther stands Briare, 
 w^hich is in itself an insignificant place, and 
 only remarkable for the canal which bears 
 its name, and unites the Seine with the 
 Loire. 
 
 From Briare to Nevers the road runs, 
 almost the w^hole way, on the prolific banks 
 of the Loire; the vineyards begin to appear; 
 and the eye is gratified with many beau- 
 tiful and picturesque views. 
 
 Before we reached Nevers, we passed 
 through La Charite and Pougues. The 
 former is a large but gloomy town, and 
 contains nothing w^orth seeing but the 
 bridge over the Loire and the priory of 
 Cluni. The latter is chiefly celebrated on 
 account of its two fountains, wdiose wa- 
 
48 TRAVELS 
 
 ters are said to be very efficacious in the 
 cure of the dropsy and some other dis- 
 orders, on which account it is much re- 
 sorted to by invalids. 
 
 At Nevers we were detained a day, in 
 consequence of the breaking up of the ice 
 on the Loire, which rendered the passage 
 of the river dangerous. There is a hand- 
 some stone bridge over it ; but, at present, 
 it is totally useless, the two middle arches 
 having been swept away, about a year ago, 
 by the pressure of the water, which rose 
 to an astonishing height. It will, in all 
 probability, be long allowed to remain in 
 this ruinous state, for devastation is every 
 where too busily employed, to allow any 
 one to think of repairing. The fortress 
 and the ducal palace are also worth seeing, 
 as well as the manufactures of glass and 
 earthen ware, which employ a great part 
 of the inhabitants. 
 
 In the evening my friend Hayes took 
 me to see a physician of his acquaintance, 
 who was a very curious, facetious old fel- 
 low, and entertained us with his convcr- 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 49 
 
 sation and a supper, which were both 
 excellent. Indeed, he produced so many 
 good things at his table, and pressed us to 
 partake of them with such uncommon 
 earnestness, that I could not help being 
 illiberal enough to suspect he had some 
 desi«-n against us, and wished to enroll us, 
 for a few days, on the list of his patients. 
 If, however, this was the case, he was 
 disappointed, for we left Nevcrs, in very 
 good health, early the next morning. 
 
 This old gentleman's entertainment, 
 and the persevering manner in which he 
 insisted, that we should partake of almost 
 every dish of which it was composed, 
 have furnished me with a fair opportunity 
 of troubling you with my ideas, concerning 
 the true meaning of the term hospitality. 
 I dare say they will be in complete uni- 
 son with your ov/n; and indeed, it they 
 should not, as I intend to be concise, you 
 will, at all events, be no great sufferer, 
 by reading what I have to advance on the 
 subject. 
 
 True hospitality then, in my opinion, 
 
 VOL. I. H 
 
so 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 consists in making your house, the house 
 of your guests; and in allowing every man, 
 whilst he is entertained at your expence, 
 exactly to follow his wishes ; so long, at 
 least, as they do not interfere with those 
 necessary and obvious rules of good-breed- 
 ing, which every friend to society would 
 wish to sec scrupulously maintained. A 
 departure from this line of conduct, is 
 exacting a very severe penalty as the price 
 of an invitation ; for nothing can be more 
 unpleasant to a person of good education 
 or good sense, than to be besieged on every 
 side by false politeness, and officiously 
 entreated to take what he has already de- 
 clined. In England, however, as well as 
 in other countries, this matter has been a 
 good deal misunderstood. With us, in 
 society, you are frequently obliged to drink, 
 and in France to eat, more than you are 
 disposed to relish. — These overstrained 
 acts of kindness are however only calcu- 
 lated to excite disgust, and the bare idea 
 of compulsion will frequently make us 
 nauseate what, of our own accord, we 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 51 
 
 might probably enjoy. On the contrary, 
 rational freedom is the life and soul of 
 every social pleasure. It sweetens every 
 blessing ; it alleviates every care; it gives a 
 proper tone to gaiety ; it stimulates the 
 powers of discourse ; and keeps the spirits 
 in perpetual Cx-culation. Any restraint, 
 which a landlord imposes on his guests, 
 is a deviation from my notions of polite- 
 ness, and a breach of the genuine spirit of 
 urbanity : and why. in this country, it 
 should be considered as less genteel to urge 
 a man to eat against his will, than to com- 
 pel him to drink, when he is already satis- 
 fied, I never could comprehend. Where, 
 in fact, lies the difference ? for if the one 
 be as disagreeable as the other to the per- 
 son addressed, the transgression against the 
 laws of hospitality must be precisely the 
 same. Every one ought, therefore, to be 
 at full liberty to please himself, and to 
 eat and drink according to the extent of 
 his appetite and inclination. For my own 
 part, 1 never, from parsimony, should 
 wish to keep the bottle from the lips of 
 
52 
 
 TRW ELS 
 
 those who arc dry, or, t'roin a false and 
 absurd principle of generosity, be anxious 
 to force wine upon those who have an 
 aversion from drinking. This is the only 
 method of making your guests easy and 
 happy; and true politeness and hospitality 
 can, I think, repose on no other foun- 
 dation. 
 
 On the 2/th, after passing through a 
 delightful country from Nevers, we dined 
 
 at Moulins, which is the capital of the 
 Bourbonnois, and was formerly the resi- 
 dence of the ancient dukes of Bourbon. 
 It is situated on the AUier, in the middle 
 of a fertile and extensive plain, and is 
 much resorted to on account of its medi- 
 cinal waters. It is said to take its name 
 from the many windmills in the neigh- 
 bourhood. The inhabitants carry on a 
 considerable traffic in cutlery, which they 
 have brought to a perfection that has given 
 a celebrity to the place. 
 
 As we alighted from our carriage, we 
 were followed into the inn by about a 
 dozen women, who had each a portable 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 53 
 
 box, containing knives, scissars, and va- 
 rious trinkets in steel. Every one begged, 
 with importunity, that we would buy 
 something ; but we were deaf to their 
 entreaties, and should, I believe, have 
 escaped without any expence, had not, at 
 the very moment they were withdrawing, 
 a most lovely girl entered the room, whose 
 solicitations it was impossible to resist. 
 All our resolutions were immediately over- 
 powered ; and, as if by previous consent, 
 we, without hesitation, untied our purses, 
 and purchased almost every thing she 
 recommended. There is, indeed, a magi- 
 cal influence about beauty ; and the simple 
 accents which flow from a pair of rosy 
 lips, are more persuasive, and frequently 
 more convincing, than the learning of the 
 scholar or the eloquence of the statesman. 
 The town itself is Indiflcrently built, 
 but the public walks on the banks of the 
 river are very pleasant, and in one ot the 
 churches is the tomb of the illustrious and 
 accomplished duke of Montmorenci, who 
 was beheaded at Thoulouse in 1632. It 
 
54 TRAVELS 
 
 ^\as erected to his memory by his duchess, 
 as a testimonial of her affection and regret, 
 and is greatly admired both for the work- 
 manship and the materials. 
 
 Leaving Moulins, we did not pass 
 through any place of consequence till we 
 came to Roanne, where the Loire begins 
 to be navigable. Several rich merchants 
 are established in this city ; and the con- 
 veniency of its situation for commerce has 
 rendered it a flourishing place. 
 
 From Roanne to Lyons the road is 
 hilly, and the country a good deal resem- 
 bles some parts of Derbyshire. The moun- 
 tain of Tarare, which we traversed, is 
 three miles in length, and so steep, that, to 
 ascend it, it is usual to assist the post horses 
 with oxen. From its summit there is a 
 beautiful view, over a rich country, which 
 is terminated by the Alps. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 
 
 ^5 
 
 LETTER VL 
 
 Lyons, March 1, I792. 
 
 The country which surrounds 
 Lyons is mountainous, but well cultivated, 
 and the number of gentlemen's seats, 
 which present themselves on every side, 
 bespeaks the consequence and riches of this 
 ancient city. Paris excepted, it surpasses 
 every other in the kingdom, both in point 
 of size and population. Its happy situ- 
 ation at the confluence of the Rhone and 
 the Soane (two rivers which intersect the 
 richest provinces of France) distinguishes 
 it for its commercial advantages, and the 
 spirit and enterprise of its inhabitants have 
 not allowed these channels of industry and 
 wealth to remain unemployed. Its chief 
 manufacture is silk, which is brought, in 
 the raw state, from Provence, Piedmont, 
 
^6 TRAVELS 
 
 and other parts, and which, wlicn fabricated^ 
 is distributed over half the globe. 
 
 As we have stopped here two days, I 
 tiave had an opportunity of viewing almost 
 every thing that is worthy of attention ; 
 and as the objects are numerous, to pre- 
 vent confusion, I shall set down the obser- 
 vations that have occurred to mc, in the 
 order in which they were made. 
 
 The streets, like those of Paris, are in 
 general very narrow, and the houses, 
 which are built of stone, are too lofty to 
 produce a pleasing effect. Many of them 
 also, on account of the excessive heats in 
 the summer, have windows of oiled paper, 
 which give them a gloomy and inelegant 
 appearance. Some parts of the city are 
 however, uncommonly handsome, particu- 
 larly the quays, and Place de BeUecourt, 
 which is ornamented with a noble eques- 
 trian statue of Louis XIV, and is reckoned, 
 both for the elegance of its buildings, and 
 the proportion of its dimensions, one of the 
 finest squares in Europe. The Hotel de 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 
 
 57 
 
 V'tlle is much admired for its architecture 
 and convenience ; and, in the centre of the 
 bridge over the Rhone, a cross is erected, 
 which marks the boundary that divides 
 the provinces of Lyonnois and Daiiph'me. 
 
 The college of the Jesuits is one of the 
 most splendid in the kingdom, and, before 
 the dissolution of that busy, aspiring, and 
 dangerous, order of priests, was richly 
 endowed. The library belonging to it is 
 built in the form of a cross, and contains 
 near sixty thousand volumes, some of which 
 are extremely rare and valuable, and in ex- 
 cellent preservation. Among others, we 
 remarked an edition of Cicero's works in 
 folio, printed in 1498, and taken by Louis 
 XIV from Louis Sforza duke of Milan, 
 during the war between those two princes: 
 also a Pliny, printed at Venice in 147:2 : 
 and a Livy on vellum, in 1470, which the 
 famous Pere de la Chaise stole from Louis 
 XIV, and presented to this college, of 
 which he was a member. These works 
 are valuable specimens of the art, and when 
 it is considered how shortly after its inven- 
 
 VOL. I. I 
 
^8 TRAVELS 
 
 tioii they were published, the beauty and 
 correctness of the type are truly astonishing. 
 Wc were also desired to observe several 
 boxes of Chinese books v^hich are curiously 
 printed on very fine paper, uncut, and 
 folded together with the nicest exactness. 
 They were swindled by a Jesuit from a 
 mandarin, and are said to contain an 
 uninterrupted history of forty-eight of the 
 Chinese emperors ; but nobody has hitherto 
 been found, sufficiently acquainted with 
 the language, to translate them. A cabinet 
 of antiquities adjoins the library, which 
 unfortunately, from the lock of the door 
 being deranged, we were prevented seeing. 
 
 Among the curiosities of Lyons, in 
 addition to these modern collections, there 
 are several respectable remains of Roman 
 taste and splendour. 
 
 The abbey of Aisnay was formerly the 
 athenaeum erected by Caligula, where the 
 prize of eloquence was contended for, 
 in the Greek and Latin languages, and 
 from which the defeated competitors, 
 as a punishment for their presumption. 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 
 
 59 
 
 were, by the orders of that cruel and 
 profligate emperor, precipitated into 
 the Rhone. The church of the same 
 name stands on the ruins of an ancient 
 temple, which was dedicated to Augustus 
 by the consul Lucius Munatius Plancus, 
 the reputed founder of the city ; and the 
 four stone pillars, which support the pre- 
 sent choir, belonged to the original edifice ; 
 but, by being divided, all proportion be- 
 tween the height and bulk is totally 
 destroyed. Near the convent of St. Mary 
 are to be discovered some triflins; vestiges 
 of the imperial palace, which was once the 
 residence of Severus ; and, without the 
 gate of St. Justinius, are the ruins of a 
 Roman aqueduct. 
 
 From the terrace of the monastery of 
 the Carthusians, there is a charming view 
 of Lyons and the adjacent country. The 
 gardens, which lie on a declivity bounded 
 by the Soane, are planted with vines, 
 which were formerly cultivated by the 
 hands of the friars. This monastery, with 
 the lands that appertained to it, has lately 
 
So TRAVELS 
 
 been confiscated, and sold at public auction: 
 and its wretched inhabitants, who led a 
 life of innocent contentment within its 
 walls ; who regarded it as the asylum of 
 peace ; as a safe and respectable retreat 
 from the vices and vanities of the world ; 
 as the boundary of their ambition on this 
 side eternity ; suddenly reduced to penury 
 and want, are now compelled, and most 
 of them at an advanced period of life, to 
 begin the w^orld again ; to seek a refuge 
 elsewhere; and to owe their bread to a 
 humiliating dependence on the fleeting 
 generosity of an iron age. — Ill-fated men ! 
 you have my compassion, for you have 
 been cruelly used : but what could you 
 expect, when rogues are legislators, and 
 legislators are enriched by the wages of 
 plunder; when the modesty of virtue is 
 abashed by the impudence of vice ; when 
 wisdom is persecuted and despised, and 
 venality encouraged and promoted ; when 
 a hardened and profane contempt of the 
 most sacred obligations insures applause, 
 and levels the road to power and emolu- 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 6l 
 
 meiit; when an antidote has been disco- 
 vered against the pangs of an accusing 
 conscience ; and every tie of nature, mo- 
 rahty, and reUgion, is absorbed, by the ma- 
 lignant poison of self-interested ambition ? 
 Whilst I thus warmly express myself, 
 I must add, that I am far from being an 
 advocate for the excessive riches and pos- 
 sessions w^iich were, till lately, engrossed 
 by the clergy of France, and which, whilst 
 they were oppressive to the people, were 
 Aery frequently bestowed on w^orthless 
 objects. I recollect the misery which 
 the intolerant and ambitious spirit of the 
 Romish church has heaped on the human 
 race. I recollect that, in every age of its 
 usurpation, it has been distinguished for an 
 avaricious, a mercenary, a cruel, an unre- 
 lenting, a sanguinary disposition. I think 
 Vi'c ought to look, with some degree of 
 jealousy, on the wealth and dominion of 
 priests in every country. I abhor super- 
 stition, which is a corrupt source of the 
 most odious crimes, which, whilst it 
 enslaves the mind, debases the heart;, and. 
 
6Z TKA\ELS 
 
 by holding out a pecuniary purchase of 
 pardon, totally destroys all regard for virtue, 
 and subverts the very foundation of the 
 moral sense. But when a reform is to be 
 introduced, it is surely right to proceed 
 with caution and temper, and some lenity 
 and compassion ought to be extended to a 
 numerous body of men, many of whom are 
 venerable from their age, respectable for 
 their virtues, and eminent for their talents, 
 and whose chief misfortune it has been, to 
 have been born at a time, when the govern- 
 ment of their country held out an encou- 
 ragement to the profession they follow. 
 
 The convent of the Carmelite nuns, 
 which was built by the Villeroy family, at 
 an immense expence, is likewise, it is 
 feared, on the eve of dissolution; for al- 
 though the ornaments of the church are 
 not yet removed, divine service is no 
 longer suffered to be performed in it. 
 The great altar is magnificent, and is 
 adorned with a picture, representing the 
 descent of our Saviour from the cross, 
 which ranks among Le Brun's most 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 6^ 
 
 finished productions ; and one of the chapels 
 contains the monument of the Villeroy 
 family, which is admirably executed. 
 
 We saw the abbess, who, with tears in 
 her eyes, deprecated the misfortunes she 
 speedily expected to incur : and not 
 without reason : for such is the ferocious 
 and predatory disposition of the ruling 
 faction in this wretched and distracted 
 country, that no discrimination is made 
 between the good and the bad ; but every 
 consideration is rendered subservient to 
 their infatuated notions of present advan- 
 tage. They forget that justice is the 
 grand and substantial pedestal which can 
 alone uphold any system of jurisprudence ; 
 and that when once that divine attribute 
 is banished from the proceedings of men, 
 and honour is bartered, without remorse, 
 for pecuniary compensation, they must 
 inevitably revert to a state of dissolute 
 barbarism and confusion. 
 
 If it were deemed politic or necessary to 
 introduce a reform into religious establish- 
 ments, and to curtail the luxuries and 
 
64 TRAVELS 
 
 extravagancies of the rich benefices, even 
 lliat ought to have been effected by degrees, 
 and some attention ought to have been 
 paid to the common dictates of equity and 
 decorum. If the superfluous revenues of 
 the opulent had been retrenched, and if 
 those, who received merely a competency, 
 had been allowed to enjoy it till they were 
 gradually removed by the hand of time, 
 the state would have been eventually bene- 
 fited ; a new and purer system of religion 
 ■would have ripened to maturity ; the laws of 
 justice would not have been invaded ; and 
 the honour of the nation would have been 
 spared. But totally to dispossess thou- 
 sands, without distinction, of the whole of 
 their property ; to deprive them of their 
 only means of subsistence ; and to leave 
 them, for future provision, at the entire 
 disposal of chance ; was an unmanly and 
 cowardly act. It was a public rohheryy 
 rendered more glaringly atrocious, because, 
 regardless of the opprobrium it was cal- 
 culated to excite, it was sanctioned and 
 ordained by a puhlic decree, — Policy may 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 6^ 
 
 frequently palliate, necessity may fre- 
 quently excuse, the adoption of measures, 
 which, under different circumstances, every 
 wise and honest legislature would be 
 wishful to avoid ; but to carve out public 
 plans, for the mere advancement of indi- 
 vidual interest, is the consummation of 
 wickedness. Oh ! how power is per- 
 verted, when it is dealt out by contami- 
 nated minds! 
 
 It is late at night, and I must now 
 conclude. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
 VOL. I. K 
 
66 TRAVELS 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 Marseilles, March 8, 1 792. 
 
 At one time, we had some 
 thoughts of descending the Rhone, from 
 Lyons, as far as Avignon ; but, the wind, 
 changing to an unfavourable point, we 
 were obhged to relinquish this plan of a 
 water expedition, and, on the 2d, we 
 proceeded on our journey, in the usual 
 way. 
 
 From the road between Lyons and 
 Vienne, we had a noble and interesting 
 view of the Alps, whose towering sum- 
 mits traced the majestic boundary of many 
 a landscape, wrought by the wild and 
 fanciful hand of Nature. 
 
 Vienne is delightfully situated on the 
 banks of the Rhone, and surrounded by 
 high mountains. It is one of the most 
 ancient cities in France, and is celebrated 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 6y 
 
 for being the spot, to which Pontius Pilate 
 is reported to have been banished, when 
 he was recalled from Jerusalem^ His 
 house, and the lake in which he drowned 
 himself, were pointed out to us; and the 
 church of Notre Dame de la Vie, which is 
 evidently a Roman structure, is supposed 
 (at least by the man who shewed it to us) 
 to have been his preetorium. Circumstan- 
 tial as these traditions are, very little credit 
 is given to any part of the story by people 
 of information ; and it is a doubt with 
 many, whether that famous personage 
 ever resided in this city. The cathedral 
 is a noble Gothic edifice ; and the remains 
 of an amphitheatre and a triumphal 
 arch dispose one to entertain a favourable 
 opinion of the former consequence and 
 splendour of the place. At a small dis- 
 tance from the southern gate, there is a 
 neat stone pyramid, which is conjectured 
 to be the tomb of some ancient Roman. 
 
 Between Vienne and Auberive, but on 
 the opposite side of the river, lies the spot 
 which produces the famous Cote Rotie 
 
68 TRAVELS 
 
 wine, so called from its being a bank 
 exposed to the sun ; and a few posts far- 
 ther on, is Tain, a small town, situated at 
 the foot of the Hermitage mountain, no 
 less celebrated for the excellence and 
 flavour of the grape which bears its name. 
 
 Leaving Tain we passed through Va- 
 lence and Montelimart, both ancient and 
 considerable towns. 
 
 The road from Vienne to Orange lies 
 almost the whole way on the banks of the 
 Rhone, intersecting a delicious country, 
 which is in a high state of cultivation, 
 and extremely productive. Meadows, 
 woods, corn-fields, and vineyards, appear 
 in succession, and enchant the sight with, 
 a charming variety of rich and picturesque 
 scenery. 
 
 On the 3d we slept at Orange, the 
 city from which the illustrious house of 
 Nassau derives its title, and which re- 
 mained in its possession till the time of 
 our William the Hid, when Louis the 
 XlVth, in pitiful revenge for the glorious 
 and successful resistance which that patriot 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 6g 
 
 king opposed to his ambition, confiscated 
 the principaUty, and annexed it to the 
 crown of France. It was a place of con- 
 siderable consequence in the time of the 
 Romans, and the remains of a circus, an 
 amphitheatre, and an aqueduct, are still 
 extant. The circus, or more properly 
 speaking, the theatre, though it has suf- 
 fered much from the injuries of time, is a 
 noble ruin, and conveys a correct idea of 
 that kind of ancient structure. It consists, 
 at present, of two strong walls, of a great 
 height and length, which are separated 
 from each other by a space of about twelve 
 feet, and the scena and orchestra are easily 
 discernible. There is also, without the 
 walls of the town, a triumphal arch, sup- 
 posed, from an inscription upon it, to have 
 been dedicated to Marius, in honour of his 
 splendid victory over the Cimbri and Teu- 
 tones. It is almost entire, and, though 
 rather overloaded with ornaments, is of 
 superior workmanship. 
 
 About tw^o o'clock the following day 
 we reached Avignon, which is a large 
 
yO TRAVELS 
 
 handsome city, agreeably situated, in a 
 fertile country, on the banks of the Rhone, 
 and surrounded by a substantial stone wall 
 which is crowned with battlements. 
 
 The churches and monasteries are very 
 numerous, and the streets swarm with 
 ecclesiastics, who seem to have little else 
 to do, than to impose on the credulity of 
 the people, and consume the riches of the 
 state. The lower orders of the people are 
 contaminated by their example. They are 
 extremely idle^ and neglect to avail them- 
 selves of the natural advantages which are 
 afforded by a navigable river and a prolific 
 soil. 
 
 Notwithstanding this city is in the pope's 
 territories, it has not been sheltered from 
 the disorders of the times. A turbulent 
 fellow, a blacksmith by profession, first 
 roused the spirit of civil discord, and, by 
 his boldness and activity, soon found him- 
 self at the head of a numerous banditti, 
 whose fury raged, for some time, without 
 control. This sedition, at length, got to 
 such an alarming pitch, that it was judged 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. J I 
 
 necessary to send a French regiment to 
 quell it, which was soon effected, and 
 the ringleader was secured. Since then, 
 lie has been under strict confinement ; but, 
 as the number of his partisans is formi- 
 dable, the sentence of his punishment has 
 not been declared. This wretch, on 
 account of the various cruelties and depre- 
 dations which he has perpetrated, is 
 regarded as an object of such hatred and 
 horrour, that he is distinguished by the 
 emphatic appellation of Coup^-Gorge., 
 
 The temporal as well as the spiritual 
 dominion of the pope have, for the last two 
 centuries, been gradually waning towards 
 insignificancy. Once the concerns of Eu- 
 rope were at his disposal, and he could 
 make potentates and empires tremble at 
 his frown : but the magic spell which, for 
 so many ages, operated on the credulity, 
 and enchained the resistance, of mankind, 
 has totally vanished; and those bulls and 
 excommunications, which formerly en- 
 forced repentance and obedience, would 
 produce nothing now but derision and 
 
73 TRAVELS 
 
 contempt. This revolution of opinion 
 is, however, a fortunate circumstance for 
 mankind, and every liberal and honest 
 mind must rejoice at the diminution of an 
 authority, which was usurped by artifice, 
 retained by terrour, and employed in ini- 
 quity. The pope, at present, is a mere 
 pageant, without either power or influence ; 
 and, as he no longer can disturb the hap- 
 piness and tranquillity of the world, justice 
 seems to require, that he should no longer 
 be regarded as an object of attack. There 
 is something in weakness which always 
 excites our compassion, especially when it 
 is contrasted with the eminent superiority 
 of past strength ; and those sufferings, 
 which are endured without the possibility 
 of resistance or the hope of redress, must 
 awaken some degree of sympathy in the 
 breast of every manly and generous foe. 
 
 From 1309 to 1376 (a space of sixty- 
 seven years) Avignon was the seat of the 
 pontifical sec, and with a considerable 
 surrounding district has since then, a few 
 short intervals excepted, continued to 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. ';/'^ 
 
 acknowledge its sovereignty. The inha- 
 bitants, panting after liberty, and weary of 
 their obedience to a Romish priest, have 
 lately expressed a wish to be reunited to 
 the kingdom of France. A French regi- 
 ment, as we have seen, has been already 
 granted ; and it is thought that the national 
 assembly, after offering an indemnity to 
 the pope too trifling to be accepted, will 
 have the magnanimity to comply with the 
 full extent of their desires. 
 
 On account of these insurrections and 
 disturbances, almost all the churches are 
 shut up. It was with difficulty we got 
 admission into the chapel of the Peftitens 
 Noirs, which is adorned with some valuable 
 paintings by Mignard, and contains an 
 ivory crucifix, the workmanship of which 
 is so admirable, that it obtained the pardon 
 of the artist who was under sentence of 
 death. 
 
 I was extremely desirous of visiting the 
 tomb of the beautiful Laura, whom Pe- 
 trarch has immortalised by his verses. It 
 was erected to her memory by the gallant 
 
 VOL. I. L 
 
74 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 and munificent Francis the first, who also 
 wrote the epitaph. But we were very 
 unfortunate, and, after making several 
 fruitless inquiries for the man who had 
 the keys of the church, reluctantly aban- 
 doned the point. Many would not have 
 thought it an object worthy of so much 
 trouble, for the monument is a plain slab 
 of marble, and the inscription on it con- 
 sists of two simple lines. But they were 
 penned by the hand of a monarch who was 
 a patron of learning, and who was him- 
 self one of the most accomplished scho- 
 lars of his age. To those who venerate 
 the charms of beauty and genius, a spot, 
 that has been thus distinguished, awakens 
 the most exquisite sensibility, and, through 
 the medium of memory, conveys to the 
 soul some of its most delightful percep- 
 tions. It was also with deep regret that I 
 relinquished our intended excursion to the 
 fountain of Vaucluse, and the banks of the 
 Sorgue, so celebrated for being the retreat 
 of Petrarch, and which, even in his prose 
 works, he describes in the language, and 
 with the genius, of a poet. 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 
 
 7S 
 
 Petrarch ranks high among the ItaHan 
 classics, and the purity of his language, 
 and correctness of his taste, far outstripped 
 the age in which he lived. At the dis- 
 tance of upwards of four hundred years 
 since he flourished*, he is still the delight 
 of every reader who has a soul to feel thos-e 
 glowing expressions and tender sentiments 
 with which his writings abound. His 
 celebrity as a politician rivalled his fame as 
 a poet; and he was employed in many of 
 the most arduous negotiations of that busy 
 period. To him, indeed, and his friend 
 Bocace, w^ho also resided at Avignon, the 
 whole human race is indebted, as they were 
 the most conspicuous among that small, 
 but glorious and generous, band, who first 
 contributed to rekindle the spark of genius 
 and erudition, which had been smothered 
 for so many ages, and to distribute the 
 
 * Petrarch was born at Arezzo in Tuscany, the 
 20th of July, 1304, and died at Padua the i8th of 
 July, 1374. — See the Abbe de Sade, Mem. pour la Vie 
 de Pttrarque. 
 
•r6 TRAVELS 
 
 sacred light of science and taste over the 
 face of Europe. 
 
 As Nismes was only about forty miles 
 out of our way, we should hardly have 
 been justified, had wc allowed so good an 
 opportunity of visiting that renowned and 
 ancient city to escape, especially as it can 
 boast of some of the noblest monuments 
 which have been saved from the general 
 wreck of the industry and arts of antiquity. 
 
 From the summit of the hills by which 
 we descended into the valley of Gard, w^e 
 had several striking and extensive views of 
 the plain and city of Avignon, embellished 
 with the windings of the Rhone, and ter- 
 minated by the lofty mountains of Dau- 
 phine. 
 
 About three miles before we arrived at 
 Nismes, we stopped to admire the famous 
 aqueduct, called the Po7it du Gard, which 
 is a stupendous edifice, and a noble rem- 
 nant of the splendid and persevering 
 industry of the Romans. It consists of 
 three bridges, one elevated on the other, 
 and was constructed by Agrippa to convey 
 
THROUGH FRANCE, ']J 
 
 water to the city. The lower bridge, 
 \vhich is thrown over the river Garden, is 
 supported by six arches, and is four hundred 
 and ninety-eight feet long, and sixty-two 
 high. The arch, through which the river 
 flows, is seventy-eight feet wide, and the 
 other five are not much narrower. The 
 second bridge, which is thirty feet in height, 
 and eight hundred and nineteen in length, 
 reposes on eleven arches, nearly of the 
 same dimensions as the first; and the 
 bridge, which sustains the aqueduct, is 
 composed of thirtv-five arches, each seven- 
 teen feet in breadth. The aqueduct, 
 including the thickness of the stones, is 
 four feet wide, and five high; and the 
 whole of this magnificent structure pre- 
 sents an elevation, which, from the surface 
 of the water to its summit, measures one 
 hundred and forty- four feet. It is of the Tus- 
 can order, almost in perfect preservation, 
 and has altogether a most majestic appear- 
 ance ; nor can it be contemplated without 
 suggesting this reflection — that the Ro- 
 mans built, not only for themselves, but 
 
78 TRAVELS 
 
 for future generations, determined to trans- 
 mit to their posterity living testimonies of 
 their power, their riches, and their fkill. 
 
 Nismes, though it has considerably 
 declined from its ancient splendour, is a 
 large, well-built, and populous city, and its 
 manufactures of silk, which are very 
 extensive, have been brought to a high 
 pitch of perfection by the genius and 
 industry of its numerous artists. Its situ- 
 ation is truly delightful, having, on one side, 
 a fertile and extensive plain, which is 
 bounded by the Mediterranean, and, on 
 the other, a succession of hills, which are 
 covered with vines and fruit-trees. It is 
 one of the most ancient cities in Europe^ 
 and contains many admirable specimens of 
 its former magnificence. 
 
 The amphitheatre, which is of the Tus- 
 can order, is of an elliptical form, and its 
 greatest diameter, including the thickness 
 of the walls, is four hundred and five feet. 
 It would, perhaps, have been almost in a 
 perfect state, had it not been for the blind 
 and barbarous zeal of Charles Martel, who, 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 79 
 
 to express his hatred of the Romans, and 
 to revenge the miseries they had, at differ- 
 ent times, inflicted on his country, ordered 
 it to be demohshed. In this view every 
 part of it was filled with wood, which was 
 set on fire. But the wishes of the monarch 
 were not fulfilled; and, to this day, it 
 presents one of the most majestic and 
 venerable ruins it is possible to behold. 
 The four principal entrances faced the 
 cardinal points of the compass, and thirty- 
 five benches (seventeen of which still 
 remain), ranged one above the other, sur- 
 rounded the inside, and accommodated, with 
 ease, seventeen thousand people. It is 
 built of large blocks of stone, and consists 
 of two stories of porticos, of sixty arcades 
 each. The top is crowned with a parapet, 
 below which there is a range of equidistant 
 stone brackets, Vv'hich are all pierced, for 
 the purpose of receiving the poles that 
 suspended the awning over the spectators. 
 The area, at present, is crowded with 
 insignificant houses, which the municipality 
 has lately purchased at a considerable 
 
80 TRAVELS 
 
 expence, proposing to remove them, and 
 to restore this superb edifice, in some 
 measure, to its original splendour. 
 
 But what principally excites the admi- 
 ration of the curious is the Mahon Carree, 
 which was formerly a temple, consecrated 
 to Caius and Lucius C^sar, the adopted 
 sons of Augustus, and is esteemed one of 
 the most beautiful and best preserved 
 monuments of antiquity which Europe can 
 produce. It is of an oblong square form, 
 from which it derives the name it now 
 bears. A flight of steps, which was 
 extended along the whole front, leads to 
 the vestibule, which is supported by six 
 fluted columns of the Corinthian order, 
 and twenty- four corresponding half-pro- 
 jecting equidistant pillars surround the 
 building. The ornamental parts of the 
 sculpture, such as the frieze and cornice, 
 display a delicacy of workmanship, and an 
 exquisiteness of taste, which surpass all 
 description. Antiquarians were very much 
 divided in opinion, about the use ot this 
 structure, and the period of its elevation. 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 8l 
 
 till Mons. Seguier fell upon an ingenious 
 method of decyphering the inscription, by 
 applying letters, that correspond with the 
 holes left, in the frieze, by the loss of the 
 original ones. It has, long since, been con- 
 verted into a chapel, and the cumbrous or- 
 naments of Romish superstition have com- 
 pletely destroyed its internal simplicity. 
 
 The tower, known, on account of its 
 size, by the name of the Totir Magne, is of 
 a pyramidical form, and stands on the 
 summit of a rock, from which there is a 
 pleasing view of the city and the circum- 
 jacent country. Amidst the variety of 
 conjectures on the purposes for which it 
 was constructed by the Romans, the most 
 probable is, that it made a part of the wall 
 which formerly surrounded the town. 
 
 The remaining principal curiosities of 
 Nismes consist of a temple dedicated to 
 Diana, which is in a very mutilated state ; 
 several marble statues, and some tessellated 
 pavement. 
 
 The fountain, which at present supplies 
 the city with water, and which is erected 
 
 VOL. I. M 
 
Sz TRAVELS 
 
 on the spot that was once occupied by the 
 public baths of the ancients, has not been 
 many years finished, and is justly admired 
 for elegance of design and solidity of 
 materials. 
 
 We left Nismcs pretty early in the 
 evening, that we might reach Tarrascon in 
 good time, where we purposed sleeping. 
 But when we got to Bcaucaire, a small 
 town on the western banks of the Rhone, 
 we had the mortification to learn, that the 
 latest hour of the attendance of the ferry- 
 boat was passed. We were, therefore, 
 reduced to the necessity of remaining all 
 night at a shabby inn, where the badness 
 of the accommodations was in exact unison 
 with the incivility of our landlord, and 
 the extravas!;ance of his demands. It is an 
 observation which I have frequently made, 
 and which in this instance was fully verified, 
 that a gentleman is seldom so respectfully 
 treated, and is generally obliged to pay 
 much m.ore, when he puts up at an inn to 
 which people of his station arc not accus- 
 tomed to resort The landlord, knowing 
 
THROUGH FRANCE* 85 
 
 that it is either chance, or necessity, which 
 has thrown you in his way, and that, when 
 once you take your leave, you will in all 
 likelihood never return, makes the most of 
 his good fortune, and charges you for every 
 thing at ten times the rate of an ordinary 
 customer. We took the earliest oppor- 
 tunity in the morning of crossing the ferry. 
 Till lately a bridge of boats, over this part 
 of the river, united the provinces of Lan- 
 guedoc and Provence ; but utility must yield 
 to the confusion of the times. The Rhone 
 holds a majestic course, and the towns 
 and castles of Beaucaire and Tarrascon 
 render the scenery very picturesque. Tar- 
 rascon is rather a large place ; and Beau- 
 caire, which is rendered interesting from 
 its past history, is at present celebrated for 
 its annual fair. 
 
 We arrived at Aix, the capital of Pro- 
 vence, on the 6th, at eleven o'clock at 
 night, after a most unpleasant and tedious 
 journey from Nismes. 
 
 This province has distinguished itself, 
 more than any other part of France, for 
 
84 TRAVELS 
 
 its republican spirit, and its resistance to 
 all good government ; and, indeed, the 
 moment we entered it, we perceived a 
 striking: chansce in the manners of the 
 people. At Orgon, the postmaster behaved 
 very insolently, refusing obstinately to take 
 the assignats of five livres (which are, by 
 the by, exchanged into small money, at a 
 discount of from thirty- two to thirty- four 
 sols), and would not harness his horses till 
 we threatened to seek redress from the 
 municipality. At one time, he made use 
 of such scurrilous language to my friend 
 Hayes, with whom he was a near match 
 both in point of height and muscular 
 strength, that I was afraid a battle would 
 have ensued. If you had seen me stand- 
 ing between these two giants, keeping 
 them asunder as well as I could, and em- 
 ploying all my eloquence to pacify them, 
 I think you would have laughed very 
 heartily. 
 
 From St. Canat the road is in a wretched 
 condition, and infested by robbers, who 
 commit their depredations, quite unheeded 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 8^ 
 
 by the eye of justice. Whilst we were 
 changing horses, the postmaster came out, 
 and, informing us of the danger of travell- 
 ing to Aix by night, endeavoured to prevail 
 on us to remain with him. He told us 
 that we should really run the risk of our 
 lives, as a man had been murdered, and 
 the courier fired at, the preceding evening. 
 But his house not having a very inviting 
 appearance, we were not disposed to place 
 much reliance on what he said, and, sus- 
 pecting he was recounting these horrible 
 stories merely from interested motives, we 
 determined to proceed. When, however, 
 we had got about half way, we met the 
 courier attended by two men, armed with 
 guns and cutlasses, who were walking at 
 the side of his carriage. On inquiring of 
 him, he told us, that what the postmaster 
 had related had literally happened, which 
 was the only reason of his travelling with 
 guards. This was a confirmation which 
 we could not discredit, and which raised 
 our apprehensions so much, that we k<.'pt 
 
86 TRAVELS 
 
 our pistols in our hands till wc were safely 
 lodged within the gates of Alx. 
 
 Aix Is a large and populous city, stand- 
 ing on an extensive and agreeable plain 
 which Is bounded by fertile hills, and has 
 long been celebrated for its baths and hot 
 waters, which are very efficacious in gouty 
 and scorbutic complaints. The streets are 
 spacious, and the houses regularly and sub- 
 stantially built. The cathedral, in which 
 are several tombs of the ancient earls of 
 Provence, is a fine Gothic structure, with 
 a carved front which is much admired ; 
 and the church of the Carmelites contains 
 a beautiful picture of the resurrection by 
 Daret, and a curious old painting by king 
 Rene. The walks of the square of Orbi- 
 tello arc planted with trees, and adorned 
 with fountains. Tournefort and the mar- 
 quis d'Argens were both natives of this 
 town ; and the great Frederick of Prussia 
 erected, in the church of the Minims, a 
 handsome monument to the memory ot 
 the latter, who, whilst Jiving, enjoyed his 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 87 
 
 patronage as a prince, and his friendship as 
 a man. 
 
 Aix has also been a scene of much con- 
 fusion and alarm. About a fortnight ago, 
 ten thousand Marseillois arrived in a 
 tumultuous and disorderly manner, and 
 disarmed the Swiss regiment quartered 
 there. Fortunately it had received private 
 orders to submit, otherwise a dreadful 
 slaughter must have ensued. 
 
 The road from Aix to Marseilles inter- 
 sects a pleasant country, planted with vines 
 and olives ; but it is, at present, in such a 
 wretched condition, that, to escape being 
 overturned, we were frequently obliged to 
 descend from our carriage. Unless repaired 
 it will soon be impassable, which will put 
 a stop to a considerable branch of the 
 inland trade of the kingdom. A few miles 
 before w"e reached Marseilles, we had a 
 charming view of the town, the harbour, 
 and the surrounding country, w^hich is 
 highly cultivated, and enlivened with 
 innumerable little white buildings, called 
 
88 TRAVELS 
 
 hast'iiks*, which are the summer retreats 
 of the inhabitants. 
 
 On my arrival here yesterday, I met 
 with a most polite reception from Madame 
 Guys (my friend Hayes's sister), who 
 insists on my residing at her house, till I 
 take my departure for Smyrna. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
 * The number of these houses in the neighbourhood 
 of Marseilles is said to exceed twenty thousand. They 
 afford a proof of the riches and population of this part 
 of France. ^ 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 89 
 
 LETTER VIII. 
 
 Marseilles, March 10, 1792. 
 
 Marseilles*, in ancient times, 
 was renowned for laws and arms ; for its 
 polite manners, and literary institutions ; 
 for the wisdom of its government, and the 
 extent of its trade. It has, in some degree, 
 retained its pre-eminence, and is still one 
 of the most considerable and commercial 
 cities in France. It contains about one 
 hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants. 
 The streets of the new town are regular 
 and spacious ; the lazaretto is the most 
 complete building of the kind in Europe ; 
 and the harbour is one of the best in the 
 Mediterranean. The country in which it, 
 
 * Considering the antiquity and the extent of 
 Marseilles, it contains very few fine churches or public 
 buildings. 
 
 VOL. I. K 
 
90 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 is situated is fertile, and the climate is mild 
 and salubrious. Such are the advantages 
 which it possesses, and which might secure 
 the enjoyment of almost every object that 
 is desirable in life, did not the factious 
 spirit of its inhabitants (as if despising the 
 favours of Providence) interfere, and thwart 
 their natural influence. 
 
 Civil dissensions have, since the revo- 
 lution, been carried to a dangerous height ; 
 and are rapidly tending towards the annihi- 
 lation of all restraint. Not long since, the 
 populace seized a poor woman, dragged 
 her forcibly from her house, and, after hav- 
 ing exhausted their ingenuity by the inflic- 
 tion of the most excruciating tortures, 
 humanely put a period to her existence, by 
 hansins: her with the cord of a lantern 
 that was near at hand. They alleged 
 against her, in extenuation of these violent 
 proceedings, a long list of the blackest 
 crimes, which apparently had no foun- 
 dation in truth ; and I have been informed, 
 that what principally rendered her obnox- 
 ious, was having formerly been the mistress 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 9I 
 
 of a magistrate, who, at the commence- 
 ment of the troubles, saved himself by 
 
 flight. 
 
 When the executive power is thus 
 assumed by the body of the people, and 
 exercised according to the dictates of 
 fluctuating passion or momentary caprice ; 
 when all regular forms of justice are 
 trampled on and despised ; when the accused 
 is denied the possibility of justification ; 
 when a deposition is regarded as a suffi- 
 cient proof of guilt; when the sacred 
 throne of mercy is levelled with the ground ; 
 and a thirst after blood and persecution 
 prevails ; the life of no one is safe, and it 
 only depends on chance who falls a victim 
 first. But such will ever be the direful 
 effects of uncontrolled licence ! No dere- 
 liction of rectitude, no desertion of duty, 
 no breach of humanity, ought then to 
 surprise us; for, when the vices of the 
 world are not restrained by the severity of 
 laws, the wicked, whom security always 
 renders courageous, will no longer shrink 
 from the face of day, or dread to stand 
 
gZ TRAVELS 
 
 forward as the champions of disorder. The 
 poison, which has insinuated itself into the 
 pubhc mind, promoting their views, they 
 will artfully avail themselves of the blind- 
 ness of the times, and openly avow their 
 pernicious principles : nor will they desist, 
 till, by frequent assaults, they at last destroy 
 the tottering temple of virtue, and, raising 
 on its wreck the profane altar of iniquity, 
 will glory to sacrifice, to the bloody deities 
 of their perverted imaginations, the remain- 
 ing pittance of private worth. 
 
 These active citizens, not satisfied with 
 their late expedition to Aix, have resolved 
 on a second to Aries, under the pretence 
 of attacking and dispersing the Aristocrats, 
 who, they affirm, have intrenched them- 
 selves there in a formidable body. But 
 who cannot discern their real motive ? 
 Among a profligate people, the dictates of 
 resentment operate with much less force 
 than the incentives to plunder; and, when 
 the dispensations of equity are no longer 
 dreaded, the mind is peculiarly fertile in 
 expedients. 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 93 
 
 Every individual is compelled to v/ear 
 the national cockade; and in order to 
 level, according to their notions, as much 
 as possible, all distinction between the rich 
 and the poor, only one kind of bread is 
 allowed to be baked. Upon my w^ord, I 
 am at a loss which most to wonder at, the 
 wickedness or the folly of this degenerate 
 people ; for their crimes and inconsistencies 
 start up by legions, and set at defiance all 
 powers of calculation. 
 
 The mob, intoxicated with a power 
 which they are incapable of managing, has 
 several times threatened to pillage the 
 houses of the most substantial merchants 
 in the town ; and I have been assured, that, 
 within the last month, near five hundred 
 respectable families, dreading the issue of 
 this irresistible spirit of persecution, have 
 privately embarked their effects on board 
 different vessels, determined to seek, m 
 other countries, that comfort and security 
 which their own no longer affords. Mons. 
 Borelly, a gentleman of large property, who 
 possesses a magnificent country seat in the 
 
94 TRAVELS 
 
 neighbourhood of Marseilles, has, with 
 many others, already absented himself, to 
 avoid a storm which had gathered over his 
 head, and was just ready to burst. 
 
 Such is the melancholy picture of affairs 
 in this part of France ! In many other 
 provincial towns the same spirit of inde- 
 pendency has manifested itself; and if it 
 have generally subsided, it has been rather 
 owing to casual circumstances, than to any 
 interference of the magistrates, who feel 
 their incapacity to exert an authority, with 
 which they are indeed invested, but which 
 is not sufficiently respected to insure obe- 
 dience. 
 
 Whilst disorders of such a nature are 
 suiFered to rage with impunity, the inabi- 
 lity to repress them is clearly demonstrated; 
 nor, in fact, can we expect to see good 
 order and unanimity restored, till the bitter 
 consequences of the present constitution 
 have brought back the body of the people 
 to reason. The corner-stone, which sup- 
 ported the edifice of allegiance, has been 
 removed ; the superstructure has been 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 
 
 95 
 
 consequently overturned ; natural liberty- 
 has been tasted, and relished ; and, although 
 many begin now to view it with disgust, 
 the majority is not yet convinced, that it 
 is incompatible with the fundamental 
 principles of a social union. This truth 
 is, however, gradually gaining ground, and 
 the number of those is not inconsiderable, 
 who prefer the gentle tyranny of the late 
 government to the wild licentiousness of 
 the present. 
 
 Under the old constitution, notwith- 
 standing the abuses which prevailed, the 
 kingdom flourished, and the people was 
 comparatively happy. Under the hetero- 
 geneous mass of absurdities which the 
 national assembly has been madly attempt- 
 ing to organize, and to reduce to an uni- 
 form system, the arts have fled ; commerce 
 has dwindled ; the manufactures are at a 
 stand ; the opulent have withdrawn them- 
 selves ; the poor are without employ ; the 
 laws without energy ; the resources of the 
 state exhausted ; its exigencies, beyond all 
 precedent, augmented ; public credit de- 
 
g6 TRAVELS 
 
 stroyed; a paper* in circulation, which is 
 received with distrust, and which has 
 fallen so considerably from its original ideal 
 value, that it no longer answers the pur- 
 poses for which it was issued; the necessa- 
 ries of life at a very enhanced price; whilst 
 the difficulties of procuring subsistence arc 
 multiplied : to sum up all in a few words, 
 happiness and plenty have been supplanted 
 by misery and want. 
 
 When such numerous and dreadful evils 
 exist, especially in a populous and extensive 
 kingdom, blessed moreover with almost 
 every advantage which the liberal hand of 
 Nature can bestow, we may surely, with- 
 out presumption, venture to pronounce, 
 either that the laws are radically bad, or 
 that the administration of them is scan- 
 dalously perverted. In this devoted coun- 
 try, both these causes have combined to 
 
 * Assignats were at about 50 per cent, discount. We 
 fortunately had specie with us ; and, as no aheration 
 had yet taken place in the price of horses, we travelled 
 through France at about half the expence we should 
 have incurred, had the assignats been at par. 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 97 
 
 produce its present situation ; for even those 
 few regulations which have a beneficial 
 tendency, are neither generally nor scrupu- 
 lously enforced ; but every public measure 
 is distinguished by the inefficacy of its 
 application, or the injustice of its exe- 
 cution. 
 
 My opinion of French politics has been 
 uniform; and what, a few months ago, 
 was, in some measure, grounded on sup- 
 position, is now confirmed by observation. 
 It is fortunate for us that we can never 
 recede to the dark ignorance of the barba- 
 rous ages. If it were possible, the con- 
 vulsive moment, would, I think, be near at 
 hand. But the inventions and discoveries 
 of the human mind have secured us from 
 the dangers of so humiliating a relapse. 
 Yet notwithstanding the wonderful efforts 
 that have been made to rescue us from such 
 apprehensions; notwithstanding the light 
 of science has dispersed, from the hemi- 
 sphere of knowledge, those thick clouds 
 which once overspread it; we must 
 st'tll be guided in our conclusions of what 
 
 VOL. I. O 
 
98 TRAVELS 
 
 will happen, from what has happened ; and 
 it is still probable that similar causes will 
 continue to produce similar effects. When, 
 therefore, I saw a body of legislators, who 
 •were about to enact laws, which were 
 intended to operate through an extensive 
 and populous empire, totally discarding 
 from their deliberations all reference to past 
 experience, and applying to theory and 
 metaphysics as the only sources of infor- 
 mation, I concluded that they were en- 
 deavouring to erect a fabric, which, if 
 ever completed, must speedily moulder to 
 decay. Already the superstructure is too 
 heavy for the foundations ; it begins to 
 totter ; and the first paroxysm of popular 
 fury will probably overthrow it *. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
 * Since this letter was vviitten, revolution has suc- 
 ceeded revolution, with a rapidity which I certainly did 
 not foresee. I was convinced that the government, 
 which then existed, could not stand long ; but those 
 scenes of horrour and bloodshed which have since pol- 
 luted France, could never have been imagined by the 
 most speculative mind. 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 99 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 
 Marseilles, March 12, 1792. 
 
 The climate of this part of France is 
 quite delightful. Even at this early season, 
 there is a serenity in the air which en- 
 hances the enjoyments of life. A clear 
 sky and a warm sun, certainly produce a 
 powerful effect on the constitution, and 
 are no doubt the occasion of the gaiety, 
 and possibly, in some degree, of the dissi- 
 pation, of the inhabitants of these southern 
 regions. There is, however, an unac- 
 countable inconsistency in their manners, 
 and every stranger must be struck with the 
 abominable filthiness of the streets of this 
 town. In the day time, they are quite 
 disgusting, and at night, unless very ex- 
 pert, one really runs the risk of being 
 sm.othered by what is thrown from the 
 
100 TRAVELS 
 
 windows. I cannot reconcile these indeli- 
 cacies with my ideas of refinement and 
 civilisation ; and they betray an innate 
 love of dirt, which can be vanquished 
 neither by a sense of propriety nor con- 
 venience. 
 
 The old town presents a scene of inele- 
 gance, inconvenience, and filth, that is 
 rarely to be paralleled. The new town, 
 however, as far as architecture is concerned, 
 makes amends for these defects. The streets 
 are wide and regular, and many of the 
 houses are built of polished stone, and 
 ornamented with porticos and columns. 
 The arsenal and theatre are noble struc- 
 tures, and the principal churches contain a 
 few choice pictures by Puget, an artist 
 of distinguished merit, both as a painter 
 and a sculptor, and a native of this city. 
 The arms, over the entrance of the town- 
 hall, are a production of his chisel, and 
 are carved, in bass-relief, with unrivalled 
 delicacy and taste. 
 
 The situation of Marseilles is admirably 
 adapted for commerce, and the harbour. 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. loi 
 
 surrounded as it is by mountains, affords 
 a secure shelter for the shipping as it 
 arrives. The quays, which are very exten- 
 sive, are handsomely and substantially 
 built, and present a scene of perpetual 
 business and bustle. The trade of this 
 city, particularly with the Levant, before 
 the present convulsions of France, was 
 very considerable, and upwards of four 
 thousand vessels, from different quarters, 
 entered the harbour in the course of the 
 year. All commercial concerns were un- 
 der the inspection and control of a cham- 
 ber of commerce, which was the first 
 institution of the kind, and paved the way 
 to their general establishment in 1701. 
 The principal manufacture, which the 
 inhabitants carry on, is in silk, which they 
 have brought to great perfection ; and the 
 oil, which is extracted from their olives, 
 is allowed to be the finest in the world. 
 Besides what is exported, it is an article 
 of considerable home consumption, being 
 a great ingredient in their cookery, and 
 
102 TRAVELS 
 
 a substitute for butter, which is very 
 scarce. 
 
 The language of Provence is not among 
 the least of its peculiarities. It is a jumble 
 between French and Italian, partaking 
 imperfectly of each, and seems to be the 
 key which both unites and separates them. 
 It will, however, be perpetuated as long as 
 the love of romance survives ; for Provence 
 was the country which gave birth to the 
 Troubadours, those famous strolling poets, 
 the inventors of rhyme, who, for several 
 centuries, during the infancy of modern 
 literature, excited the attention and emu- 
 lation of almost every part of Europe, and 
 laid the foundation of all those celebrated 
 fabulous compositions, which were the de- 
 light of their own age, and are now trea- 
 sured up in the libraries of the curious. 
 
 I was last night at the play, and was 
 as tolerably amused as the nature of the 
 performance would admit. Considering 
 the circumstances of the times, it was 
 extremely well attended ; but the stage 
 in France has experienced a melancholy 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. I03 
 
 change. Classical elegance and purity, 
 the rules of just composition, and the 
 productions of correct taste, have been 
 gradually dismissed, and nothing is now 
 relished but the scurrilous indecencies of 
 ribaldry, or the sallies of licentious wit, 
 which flatter the wild fanaticism of the 
 times, by abusing the constituted autho- 
 rities of the state, and asserting the inhe- 
 rent majesty of the people. The witty 
 Moliere, the sublime Corneille, the ele- 
 gant Racine, those great constellations of 
 the French drama, are no longer en- 
 dured, but are obliged to secede from 
 public notice, and to yield the palm to 
 the puny efforts of modern genius. 
 
 I have engaged my passage for Smyrna 
 in a French vessel, which is expected to 
 sail every day, so that my detention here 
 will probably be very short. I could al- 
 most wish that it were longer ; for I have 
 been treated with such cordial hospitality 
 and friendship by the family with whom 
 I am staying, that I shall leave them with 
 sincere regret. 
 
I04 TRAVELS 
 
 I have now traversed France, nearly 
 from one extremity of the kingdom to the 
 other, and the observations I have trans- 
 mitted to you, you have received, just 
 in the order they arose in my mind ; a plan 
 by which I intend to regulate my future 
 communications. They may lose in point 
 of arrangement ; but the advantages they 
 will gain in other respects, will, I hope, 
 more than counterbalance the deficiency. 
 
 I have purposely avoided entering into 
 a minute account of palaces, pictures, 
 and public buildings, which have been 
 already so frequently and so accurately 
 described. On the political state of the 
 country, I have been more ample ; for it is 
 a subject replete with novelty and wonder, 
 and has aroused the attention and surprise 
 of every reflecting mind. You may, per- 
 haps, have thought some of my expressions 
 rather too warm ; but I spoke as I felt, 
 and as, I am convinced, even after reflec- 
 tion, under similar circumstances, I should 
 again speak and feel. When, however, I 
 lament the revolution, I lament it from 
 the odious effects which it has already 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. I05 
 
 produced, and the extensive mischief which 
 it still portends. Real, substantial, rational 
 liberty, I venerate as fervently as any man, 
 nor can any man more sincerely detest the 
 horrours and the chains of despotism. I 
 consider liberty, both civil and religious, 
 as the unalienable. Indefeasible right of 
 every human being ; as a right which 
 belongs to him, as perfectly as the use of 
 the air he breathes. I consider despotism 
 as a scandalous and glaring usurpation on 
 the most obvious and valuable privileges 
 of nature, and that every exertion to over- 
 turn it, is not only an act both laudable 
 and justifiable, but a most sacred duty : 
 for it is folly and arrogance in the extreme 
 to attempt to maintain, that millions of 
 human beings were created for the mere 
 subserviency, or pleasure, or gratification, 
 of one man, of the same mould, and facul- 
 ties, and perceptions, whom nothing 
 but the blind chance of birth has placed 
 upon a throne. But whilst I am dis- 
 coursing about freedom and slavery, I 
 am not to be led astray by an abuse of 
 
 VOL. I. P 
 
106 TRAVELS 
 
 terms ; for the history of mankind informs 
 me, that as atrocious acts of tyranny have, 
 with impunity, been perpetrated under 
 what has been denominated a free govern- 
 ment, as under the most absolute monarchy 
 that ever existed. Had the French acted 
 wisely and temperately, their revolution 
 would have been a glorious era in the 
 annals of the world. It would have been 
 applauded by every man of virtue, sense, 
 and feeling. It would have been one of 
 the most noble achievements that was ever 
 held up to the contemplation and gratitude 
 of the human mind. It might have been 
 an unsullied pattern and example of disin- 
 terested patriotism, and have led to the 
 dissolution of slavery over the face of the 
 globe. But the glorious opportunity has 
 been sacrificed to the base and mercenary 
 views of upstart and insidious ruffians ; 
 and I ever shall detest a revolution, which 
 has destroyed one government without 
 substituting another ; which has converted 
 order and subordination into an inextri- 
 cable maze of confusion ; which has ruined 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 107 
 
 a flourishing country ; and presented a 
 wide-extended field of persecution, deso- 
 lation, rapine, and death. 
 
 I have little more to add on this part of 
 my tour ; but as there have been frequent 
 contest among travellers, concerning the 
 predominance of advantages afforded by 
 England and France, I shall, before I con- 
 clude, endeavour to give you my senti- 
 ments on this subject, with as much can- 
 dour and moderation as I can. 
 
 I confess that I feel no hesitation in 
 deciding in favour of my own country. 
 As far as concerns my individual feelings, 
 whether I be swayed by prejudice or no, is 
 of little consequence ; since the conviction 
 that a thing is better, makes it so, in 
 reality, to the person who entertains that 
 opinion. As far, however, as I would wish 
 my opinion to operate on the judgment of 
 others, it is incumbent on me, to clear it 
 from misconstruction and errour; and to 
 bestow on it all the support in my power. 
 
 I have known France in its happier 
 days; and notwithstanding the compara- 
 
I08 TRAVELS 
 
 tive state of melioration, in every respect, 
 which it then enjoyed, my notions were 
 much what they are now. I am not, 
 however, so weak or so iUiberal as to give 
 such a decided preference to my own 
 country, as to attempt to maintain, that 
 every thing in England is better than 
 every thing in France (for every country 
 is distinguished by some blessings peculiar 
 to itself), but merely that the advantages 
 lie on our side. 
 
 As far as relates to the government of 
 the two kingdoms, there is so little room 
 for disputation, that I have always entirely 
 excluded it from my calculation. With 
 Englishmen, indeed, on that point, there 
 can be but one sentiment. 
 
 All then I have to do, setting out with 
 these professions, is to draw a sketch of 
 the manners which characterise each na- 
 tion, and, after fairly weighing one against 
 the other, to see which scale prepon- 
 derates. 
 
 The French (I mean to speak of them 
 as they were, for I hope their present fit 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. 
 
 109 
 
 of insanity will not last long) are a polite, 
 affable, easy, thoughtless, ingenious, and 
 frivolous people. They have an exterior 
 which immediately engages the attention, 
 and generally captivates at first sight. 
 They can talk, and dance, and sing, for 
 ever ; but with the sobriety of steady re- 
 flection they are little acquainted. They 
 have brilliancy of wit; but are deficient 
 in solidity of judgment. The feelings of 
 their hearts are warm ; but not durable. 
 Their learning is general; but not pro- 
 found ; and most of them have read a 
 great deal ; but studied very little : so that 
 their conversation is sprightly and airy, 
 Vvcll furnished with materials; but only 
 with those materials, which lie on the 
 surface, and which are consequently ac- 
 quired with little trouble. On subtle or 
 abstruse points they seldom converse ; and 
 they are better calculated for the giddy 
 flutter of the drawing-room, than the 
 learned disquisitions of the closet. They 
 are prodigal of finery, both in furniture 
 and dress ; but the intrinsic worth seldorr 
 
no TRAVELS 
 
 corresponds with the outward appearance. 
 Their natural taste for dissipation and 
 amusement has introduced among them 
 an almost endless variety of each, and the 
 great object of their lives seems so be, to 
 enjoy the present, and to banish totally 
 from their thoughts the insipid recollec- 
 tion of the past, or the probable occur-- 
 rences of the future. 
 
 Their society is always cheerful and 
 agreeable ; and they certainly have, be- 
 yond every other people, discovered the 
 art of trifling time pleasantly away. Ta 
 strangers they are courteous and hospi- 
 table ; but their professions must never be 
 understood in their full extent, and must 
 very frequently be considered as mere 
 sounds, without any meaning w^hatever. 
 Their friendship is easily gained, and as 
 easily lost. Whilst you are w^th them, 
 they are kind, attentive, and polite; when 
 you are gone, you are thought of no 
 more ; for, such is the versatility of their 
 minds, that the same train of ideas sel- 
 dom lasts long, and, unless revived by 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. HI 
 
 something very striking, does not often 
 recur. 
 
 They have a certain irritabiUty about 
 them, which keeps them in constant ac- 
 tion; and such is the natural flow of their 
 animal spirits, that, when any enterprise 
 is to be accomplished by impetuous and 
 prompt execution, they will generally suc- 
 ceed. But, when they have once carried 
 their point, from a deficiency of patience 
 and prudence, they are at a loss how to 
 avail themselves of its advantages. Thus, 
 the moment they had overthrown their 
 government, they imagined themselves 
 free, and immediately explored the wildest 
 regions of the most intemperate excess. 
 The hollow principles of their theory led 
 them into an immeasurable labyrinth of 
 errours, absurdities, and crimes. They 
 subverted, as they endeavoured to restore, 
 without reflection. Reasoning as meta- 
 physicians, they deviated from every sound 
 and rational doctrine of practical philoso- 
 phy ; and, amidst the multitude and variety 
 of their changes and experiments; they 
 
Iia TRAVELS 
 
 have scarcely had recourse to a single one 
 that is in the least applicable to the state 
 or nature of man. 
 
 To destroy a long-established system, a 
 people needs only employ the force they 
 possess ; but the passive virtues of patience 
 and forbearance must calm the delirium 
 of revenge, and repress the tumults of 
 faction, before a just code of jurisprudence 
 can be framed, or the permanent posses- 
 sion of liberty secured. In our own coun- 
 try, we are more indebted to the deliberate 
 wisdom and steady firmness of our ances- 
 tors after victory, than to the strenuous 
 energy displayed in the moment of contest, 
 for the possession of that constitution 
 which, however people may cavil about 
 particular parts, is, on the whole, calculated 
 to produce the greatest portion of religious, 
 moral, and political freedom, which the, 
 various and opposite passions and prejudices 
 of mankind will admit. 
 
 In their address and deportment they 
 are easy, familiar, and graceful ; and are 
 never at a loss for conversation, when they 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. II3 
 
 first accost you. Initiated early into the 
 insipid but complicated mysteries of eti- 
 quette, and accustomed from their cradles 
 to company, they always know what rules 
 and ceremonies to observe, and are scarcely 
 ever disturbed by the dreadful and perplex- 
 ing agitations of bashfulness. The French, 
 in short, are endowed with those talents, 
 and propensities which seldom fail to con- 
 stitute an agreeable companion. Their 
 conversation is always cheerful, generally 
 entertaining, and, not unfrequently, instruc- 
 tive. But we must retrench very much 
 from the vanity and fickleness of their 
 hearts, and add something considerable to 
 the firmness and perseverance ot their 
 minds, before we can exhibit a portrait 
 which is closely allied to the standard of 
 human perfection. 
 
 The character of the English is, per- 
 haps, less brilliant ; but it is more respec- 
 table. It docs not excite so much of our 
 astonishment ; but it commands more of 
 our veneration. It does not so immc- 
 
 YOL. I. Q 
 
114 TRAVELS 
 
 diately amuse the fancy ; but it lays sL 
 stronger hold of the heart. 
 
 An Englishman, when you are intro- 
 duced to him, receives you politely, without 
 Overloading you with empty compliments 
 and professions. If he likes your society, 
 he tells you so ; and, when once you have 
 made an impression on his feelings, that 
 impression is lasting, and his friendship is 
 sincere. Accustomed, both from habit 
 and education, to think for himself, and 
 not to adopt the opinions of others 
 (unless, after reflection and examination, 
 he finds them superior to his own), he 
 is, on important matters, a long time 
 determining ; but, when he has once deter- 
 mined, he does not readily change. His 
 mind being thus frequently occupied in 
 the solution of intricate problems, it is, 
 perhaps on this account, that he possesses 
 not that volubility of tongue, for which 
 the French are so remarkable. What, 
 however, he loses in number of words, is 
 abundantly restored in weight; and no 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. I15 
 
 language furnishes more modes of forcible 
 expression than our own. 
 
 Not naturally much addicted to pleasure 
 or to public amusements, we have acquired, 
 from our long and close intercourse with 
 our neighbours, an artificial taste for them, 
 that has progressively increased with the 
 riches and luxury of the country. 
 
 In. society we are cheerful, without 
 straining our spirits to the highest pitch 
 of elevation ; and we go into company, as 
 much for the promotion of durable friend- 
 ship as for the fleeting purposes of imme- 
 diate enjoyment. Our manners were for- 
 merly coarse and abrupt ; but they are now, 
 I conceive, quite sufficiently polished ; and 
 I could wish that they may not make 
 nearer approaches to what is, improperly, 
 called refinement. 
 
 But the brightest ornament of the 
 character of the English, is that generous 
 philanthropy which they extend to every 
 object of distress ; that ardent love which 
 they bear their native land ; and that frank 
 confidence which they repose in the 
 
tl6 ITRAYELS 
 
 honour of their countrymen. Nationality 
 may, in the phlegmatic notions of a frigid 
 or supercilious philosopher, be regarded as 
 an imperfection ; but, in the ideas of those 
 who feel and think as nature dictates, it is 
 a noble and generous principle, and the 
 uncontaminated source from which a con- 
 siderable portion of human felicity flows. 
 It is a sentiment that is sure to generate 
 content. It makes the Greenlander satis- 
 fied with his mountains, and the Arab 
 with his deserts, and, by a happy illusion, 
 as sweet perhaps as the reality, transfers to 
 the native frosts and snows of the one, 
 and the parching sands of the other, the 
 blessings of the most favoured regions. I 
 like the man who thinks well of his 
 country. The opinion of superiority, when 
 founded on a consciousness of real merit, 
 is often the cause of superiority. It is a 
 perennial source of active virtue and manly 
 exertion ; and, by stimulating us to the 
 performance of those duties which we owe 
 to the character we have formed of our- 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. II^ 
 
 selves, is, not unfrequentlj, the origin of 
 eventual success. 
 
 Such are the distinctions which I have 
 been able to discover between the charac- 
 ters and dispositions of these two great and 
 rival nations. Each enjoys its own peculiar 
 advantages, and each possesses its own pecu- 
 liar merits. They are, indeed, characterized 
 by very opposite endowments and qualifi- 
 cations ; but which is most entitled to our 
 esteem, or has the best claim to our admi- 
 ration, I think you will have no hesitation 
 in determining. 
 
 After having said so much about the 
 men, I cannot, with any propriety, espe- 
 cially as I am writing to you, altogether 
 omit the ladies. Their characters, how- 
 ever, which are marked with the same 
 strong shades of variance, are easily draw^n. 
 
 The women in France, like the men, are 
 thoughtless, lively, and dissipated ; bewitch- 
 ing companions ; but for wives, my fair 
 countrywomen may, without presumption, 
 claim a decisive pre-eminence over the 
 
Il8 TRAVELS 
 
 whole female creation. The French wo- 
 men, disdaining to be encumbered with 
 the embarrassments of restraint, shew at 
 once what they are ; and it does not 
 unfrequently happen, that, at a first inter- 
 view, in the course of a few hours con- 
 versation, you become thoroughly ac- 
 quainted with their talents, their accom- 
 plishments, and even their propensities : 
 but there is a modest and dignified reserve 
 in the demeanour of the English wo- 
 men, which shrinks from the eye of 
 observation; which seems to stand in 
 need of protection ; which, as it developes 
 itself, excites a fresh interest ; and which, 
 gradually revealing its value, bestows a 
 grateful recompence on the assiduity of 
 cultivation. The French women are 
 all spirit and animation, and their natu- 
 ral gaiety often betrays them into indis- 
 cretions which the voice of reflection is 
 unable to repress. Thus, in their attach- 
 ments, they are hasty rather than discreet, 
 fervent rather than steady, indiscriminate 
 
THROUGH FRANCE. iig 
 
 rather than refined. The English women 
 are less volatile, their hearts are better 
 formed for constancy, and their tempers 
 less subject to caprice. To sum up all 
 in a few words, the French women cap- 
 tivate for a day, the English women for 
 life. 
 
 With regard to the genuine intrinsic 
 comforts of existence, I think they are 
 neither practised, nor understood, in any 
 country but our own. We are not osten- 
 tatiously splendid; but what we have is 
 good, and the mere glare of external 
 brilliancy would not, in our opinion, 
 impart to it an additional value. In clean- 
 liness, articles of elegant convenience or 
 real utility, we certainly surpass every 
 country on earth. Step into the house 
 of any foreigner, and afterwards into the 
 house of an English gentleman, and this 
 point is immediately determined. The 
 accommodations on our roads for travel- 
 lers are likewise, beyond all comparison, 
 superior to those which are to be met 
 with elsewhere. 
 
120 TRAVELS 
 
 I must now say adieu ; I may otherwise 
 be wandering to some other topic, and I am 
 sure you will find my letter, as it is, quite 
 long enough. 
 
 Yours, ^c. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. IJJI 
 
 LETTER X. 
 
 Smyrna, April 7, 1792. 
 
 On Tuesday the 13th of March, 
 I took leave of my friend Hayes and of 
 Madame Guys (whose poHteness and 
 kindness I shall ever remember with gra- 
 titude), and embarked on board the Cazi- 
 mir, captain Jaubert, for Smyrna. 
 
 For the three first days I was ex- 
 tremely ill ; the fourth, the violence of the 
 sickness began to abate ; and, after the 
 fifth, I felt no inconvenience from the 
 motion of the ship. You are not, how- 
 ever, on that account to imagine, that 
 my situation w^as by any means a desirable 
 one ; for, from the moment of my depar- 
 ture from Marseilles till the moment of 
 my arrival at Smyrna, the time hung so 
 heavily on my hands, that I w^ould wil- 
 
 VOL. I. R 
 
IZZ TRAVELS 
 
 lingly have passed in oblivion that short 
 period of my existence. 
 
 I was the only passenger on board ; and 
 the mind of the captain w as so continually 
 ■wrapped up in the concerns of his vessel, 
 that he scarcely ever condescended to chat 
 ■with me. I had recourse, by turns, to my 
 books and my pen ; but such numerous 
 causes of dissatisfaction were almost per- 
 petually intruding on my thoughts, that 
 the amusement, I derived from them, was 
 barely negative. Scarcely any author or 
 any reflection could make me forget, that 
 I was in a French vessel ; that 1 w^as in a 
 state of confinement ; and, what I most 
 stood in need of, that there was no person 
 near me whom I could call my friend; and 
 who, by dividing my feelings, w^ould have 
 taken off the edge of that keen sensibility, 
 which the sudden transition, from a charm- 
 ing society to an irksome solitude, had 
 created. When I rose in the morning, I 
 wished for night ; when night arrived, the 
 morning was desired ; even the hours were 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 123 
 
 counted as they went, and willingly con- 
 signed to annihilation. 
 
 On the 15th, we saw the island of 
 Sardinia. On the i6th, during the night, 
 we passed the coast of Barbary, and, on the 
 1 8th, the island of Malta. I was sorry to 
 have missed seeing this celebrated rock, 
 which has made such an illustrious figure 
 in the history of Europe. It is well inha- 
 bited, and every citizen is a soldier, at per- 
 petual war with the Turks and the pirati- 
 cal states of Barbary. The strength of its 
 fortifications secures it from the danger of 
 any hostile attack; but that formidable 
 naval armament which it once commanded, 
 and to which it was chiefly indebted for 
 its consequence, is no longer maintained *. 
 
 On the 19th, we had a distinct, though 
 
 * It has now completed the history of its inde- 
 pendence, and, by the shameful surrender of its 
 rights, bartered for French gold, totally eclipsed its 
 former lustre. Our energy has since conquered it 
 from the French : our vigilance ought for ever to 
 preserve it from their domination. Let us keep in 
 our minds the fate of Elba. 
 
124 TRAVELS 
 
 distant, view of mount Etna ; and on the 
 23d, in the afternoon, cape Matapan, which 
 is the extreme branch of mount Taygetus, 
 and the ancient promontory of Tasnaros, 
 presented itself. It is, at present, inhabited 
 by the Maniots, and other races of savage 
 and inexorable pirates, who consume their 
 lives in the pitiless and atrocious pursuits 
 of rapine and slaughter. They lurk, day 
 after day, concealed in their creeks, and 
 watching with keen, but patient, avidity 
 for their prey. A furious gale of wind, 
 and a tempestuous sea, are the first object 
 of their wishes, and the firmest supporter 
 of their hopes. They then redouble their 
 vigilance, and, the moment they espy a 
 vessel that is vainly wrestling with the 
 storm, they sally out in their boats, which 
 are always fast sailers and well armed, and 
 secure their prize. The cargo is distri- 
 buted among them, and the wretched crew 
 is irrevocably condemned to perpetual 
 bondage or instant death. 
 
 On the 24th, early in the morning, just 
 as we were entering the Archipelago, one 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 1^$ 
 
 of the piratical vessels* which infest that 
 sea was discovered. She was steering 
 towards us with all the sail she could 
 crowd, and by eight o'clock had approached 
 so near, that we could plainly distinguish 
 her guns and men. To make as great a 
 shew as possible, and impress them with a 
 favourable opinion of our courage, we all 
 mustered on deck, well provided with 
 small arms. She, however, still continued 
 to gain on us ; and as their strength w^as 
 much superior to ours, and they seemed 
 eager and determined in the pursuit of us, 
 we thought it not improbable that an 
 action might take place. This certainly 
 was a moment which required firmness 
 and decision ; but our captain was so 
 overcome with fear, that he was totally at 
 
 * We afterwards heard, that this vessel was one 
 ofLambro's squadron. This fellow was a renegado 
 Russian, who, by his courage and activity, had 
 collected under his command a formidable force. 
 He captured a vast number of merchantmen, and 
 was, for a short time, the terrour of the Archi- 
 pelago, 
 
1^6 TRAVELS 
 
 a loss what measures to pursue. Nevef 
 shall I forget the melancholy and disgrace- 
 ful figure which he made. Instead of 
 encouraging his men to perform their dutj, 
 and, if they were to fall, to sell their lives 
 dearly ; with a countenance which un- 
 veiled the faintness of his heart, he kept 
 w^alklng hastily up and down the deck, ex- 
 claiming at every other step, in a most dis- 
 consolate accent, " Ah ! nous sommes tons 
 perdus." I never witnessed an instance of 
 such base and dastardly cowardice, and my 
 feelings were so exasperated, that I almost 
 longed to throw him into the sea. Our 
 situation became every moment more criti- 
 cal; and the sailors, finding that their cap- 
 tain was incapable of directing them any 
 longer, fired, without orders, two of our 
 largest guns, which were so well pointed, 
 that the balls fell within a few feet of the 
 enemy's vessel. This resolute conduct 
 alarmed the pirates so much, that they 
 instantly hoisted the Russian colours, and, 
 after some hesitation, shifted their sails, and 
 steered for the coast of the Morea. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. IZJ 
 
 The object of these wretches is a sur- 
 prise, or an attack, where they suspect 
 that scarcely any resistance can be made. 
 A contest on equal terms they uniformly 
 decline, and will seldom encounter, even 
 an inferior force, if it be but well prepared 
 to receive them. This, in truth, is gene- 
 rally the case with those who are engaged 
 in a bad cause. They are " sometimes led 
 on by desperation to perpetrate the most 
 daring acts, but they seldom possess that 
 steady, determined resolution, which is the 
 result of a good conscience, and which, by 
 awakening circumspection, so frequently, 
 in the honourable career of duty, ensures 
 success. 
 
 It is altogether disgraceful to the mari^ 
 time powers of Europe, that these robbers 
 should not only be allowed to insult their 
 flags, and to commit, with impunity, the 
 most atrocious depredations, but that they 
 should even be encouraged, by the tributes 
 they receive, to persist in a course of life, 
 which is equally destructive of justice, 
 morality, and national independence. 
 
128 TRAVELS 
 
 When our valiant captain conceived 
 that all danger was over, he gradually 
 regained his scattered spirits, and reassumed 
 his consequential strut. His imagination 
 now began to operate, and painted him to 
 his own eyes in such splendid colours, that, 
 whenever he spoke with a vessel at sea, he 
 boasted of his exploits, and recounted how 
 gallantly he had beaten off a piratical 
 enemy of double his force. I was almost 
 tempted to divulge the secret, which 
 would probably have put a period to his 
 loquacious gasconades. *How frequently 
 it happens, that the man, who makes him- 
 self the hero of his own stories, and is 
 continually relating the prodigies he has 
 performed, is the most apt to yield to an 
 alarm, and the first to desert his post in the 
 hour of peril. True courage acts when 
 the occasion presents itself, and is silent 
 and modest when it is past ; it leaves to 
 others the office of the panegyrist, and 
 scorns the undignified occupation of self- 
 applause. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 129 
 
 On the 26th, we had advanced twenty- 
 leagues beyond Cerlgo, when the wind, 
 changing to the north, and blowing rather 
 freshly, obliged us to tack about, and, re- 
 measuring the twenty leagues, we took 
 shelter behind this once celebrated island. 
 Here we again had a sight of the very 
 piratical vessel which had so much annoyed 
 us the day before : but, being now in 
 company with an Imperial ship, we had 
 no danger to apprehend. 
 
 This island is the ancient Cythera, so 
 frequently the theme of the poets of an- 
 tiquity. It was here that Venus is fabled 
 to have first landed, when she rose, with 
 resplendent majesty, from the foam of the 
 sea ; and where she was worshipped, by 
 the inhabitants, in a magnificent temple, 
 dedicated to her memory. But it no 
 longer possesses those attractive charms, 
 which have been so highly celebrated, and 
 which, probably, never existed, but in the 
 glowing imaginations of its inspired bards. 
 Instead of being the abode of plenty, and 
 the residence of the laughing goddess and 
 
 VOL. I. s 
 
130 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 her graces, of the pleasures of love and the 
 refinements of taste, it exhibits nothing 
 but parched heaths and barren rocks, 
 which scarcely produce a sufficient supply 
 for its scanty population. At present, it 
 belonsfs to the Venetians, and is the last 
 remnant of their once splendid dominion 
 in the Levant. 
 
 Whilst we lay at anchor, I kept my 
 eyes almost continually fixed on the Morea, 
 the modern appellation of the Peloponnesus, 
 once the theatre of actions which have 
 ennobled the name and character of man ; 
 once the favourite resort of the muses ; 
 once the seat of enlightened eloquence, 
 and profound erudition ; once the prolific 
 nursery of legislators, philosophers, and 
 heroes. When we contrast its former 
 with its present state ; when we compare 
 the soul of a Socrates or a Plato, with the 
 blind and brutal instincts and appetites 
 of its actual possessors ; we shrink, with 
 mingled shame and compassion, from the 
 task of investigation, and wish to draw a 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. I3I 
 
 veil over the infirmities and degeneracy of 
 the human mind. 
 
 At the point of cape Malea, now called 
 Angelo, formerly stood the magnificent 
 temple of Apollo. But the Turks spare 
 nothing. Even the majestic ruins of the 
 temple of Minerva, which still attract so 
 many strangers to the hallowed spot where 
 Athens once flourished, is suffering every 
 day from the indiscriminate vengeance of 
 their destructive hands. 
 
 The wind being rather favourable, on 
 the 27th, in the morning, wc left Cerigo, 
 and, after being tossed about for three 
 successive days in the Archipelago, took 
 refuge in the port of Milo *. 
 
 In ancient times, this island was flourish- 
 ing and populous, and, during the Pelo- 
 ponnesian war, distinguished itself by the 
 long and vigorous resistance which it made 
 against the efforts of the Athenians to 
 
 * The ancient Melos. This was the birth-place 
 of the celebrated Diagoras, surnanied the Atheist, 
 who was banished from Athens in the 91st Olympiad, 
 for denying the existence of the Gods. 
 
132 TRAVELS 
 
 subdue it. Even so late as the beginning 
 of this century, it was a place of consider- 
 able consequence, and the French mer- 
 chants, who were then settled in it, carried 
 on an extensive commerce. In those days, 
 the corsairs were accustomed to bring all 
 their prizes to this port to dispose of them, 
 which occasioned a vast influx of strangers 
 from every part of the Archipelago, and 
 kept up the spirit of adventure and specu- 
 lation. But this scene of prosperity has 
 since completely vanished. The French 
 have abandoned the island ; their churches, 
 and the convent of Capuchins which they 
 had founded, are in ruins ; and nothing is, 
 at present, exhibited but a disgusting pic- 
 ture of misery and desolation. 
 
 The two principal towns, which have 
 by degrees dwindled to villages, do not 
 contain above a thousand or twelve hun- 
 dred inhabitants, and the deplorable con- 
 dition of their houses bespeaks their indo- 
 lence and poverty. One of them, named 
 Castor, stands on the summit of a rugged 
 rock, at the entrance of the harbour, and 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 133 
 
 has a very romantic appearance. The 
 other, which is called Milo, possesses an 
 inland situation. It is considered as the 
 metropolis, is better built and peopled, 
 and abounds with churches and priests, 
 with a Greek bishop at their head, who 
 draws from the superstition of his flock a 
 decent revenue. All the inhabitants are 
 Greeks, except the judge, who is a Turk, 
 and who is invested with a sufficient de- 
 gree of power to answer the purposes of 
 tyranny and extortion. They are a slothful, 
 dissipated race ; and it is no uncommon 
 practice, after basking the whole of the 
 morning in the sun, to consume the re- 
 mainder of the day in drinking and gam- 
 bling. 
 
 In their triHing commercial transactions 
 with the vessels which visit their port, 
 like other Greeks, they are much addicted 
 to chicane and low cunning. A particu- 
 lar instance of this nature fell under my 
 own observation. One of them, who had 
 purchased some bottles of our sailors, 
 attempted to pay for them in false dollars. 
 
134 TRAVELS 
 
 On being detected, he betrayed no signs of 
 confusion ; but, pledging his word that it 
 was jjnercly a mistake, he dchberately put 
 his hand into another pocket, and produced 
 a bag of good money. 
 
 Having consumed all the poultry we 
 brought with us from Marseilles, as soon 
 as we landed we went in quest of a fresh 
 stock ; but it w^as extremely scarce, and at 
 such an extravagant price, that we were 
 discouraged from purchasing any. Although 
 I paid very liberally for my passage, our 
 fare on board was far from being sump- 
 tuous. This, however, I little regarded ; 
 but what rendered our meals more than 
 necessarily uncomfortable was, that the 
 captain would never consent to dine in the 
 cabin, but spread a dirty cloth on the deck, 
 with a weight at each corner to prevent the 
 wind, which was frequently very piercing, 
 from blowing it away. We were not 
 provided with chairs, and were obliged to 
 tuck our legs under us, in the Turkish 
 fashion, to accustom us, I suppose, to the 
 manners of the country we were about to 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 135 
 
 visit. At eight o'clock every evening the 
 crew regularly assembled to prayers, at 
 which time I retired to bed by the glim- 
 mering of a lamp, for our valiant com- 
 mander was afraid to trust me with a 
 candle. I used to grumble at first ; but 
 finding that all remonstrance was vain, I 
 bore my misfortunes with tolerable patience, 
 and reconciled matters as well as I could, 
 by firmly resolving, in future, to avoid, if 
 possible, undertaking a voyage in a French 
 merchantman. 
 
 Before we returned on board, one of the 
 papas or priests, whom we found standing 
 at the door of his house, politely invited us 
 in, and presented us w^ith pipes and coffee. 
 This was a mark of hospitality which I 
 was well enough disposed properly to 
 appreciate ; but what greatly enhanced its 
 value was, the sight of a lovely girl of 
 fifteen, to whom he introduced us. He 
 toui us, that she was betrothed to a youno- 
 
 JO 
 
 man, who had been obliged to undertake 
 an excursion to one of the neighbouring 
 islands, and who, on his return, which was 
 
136 TRAVELS 
 
 looked for every day, was to marry her. 
 Nothing could be more interesting than 
 her countenance. It betrayed a mixture 
 of hope and fear, of inw^ard satisfaction 
 and tender anxiety ; feelings which so natu- 
 rally arise in the breast of a young and 
 ingenuous maiden, on the point of forming 
 the most hazardous and eventful connexion 
 of life. 
 
 The soil, which is naturally fertile, and 
 which formerly yielded in abundance 
 olives, figs, and grapes, is now badly culti- 
 vated, and consequently unproductive. 
 In some spots a little cotton is grown, and 
 here and there a field of barley is seen ; 
 but the pasturage is scanty, and the cattle 
 diminutive and lean. 
 
 The climate is extremely unhealthy, 
 and the people in general have a sickly 
 appearance. The most prevalent disorders 
 are epidemic fevers and the dropsy, sup- 
 posed to be generated by the pestiferous 
 influence of the air, and the badness of the 
 water, which is strongly impregnated with 
 sulphur : and such is the ignorance of 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. I37 
 
 those who profess medicine, that very 
 little relief is to be expected from the 
 efforts of their skill. 
 
 Almost every part of the island furnishes 
 proofs of the vast quantity of mineral sub- 
 stances that is incorporated with the earth. 
 There are several caverns, entirely incrusted 
 with concretions of vitriol and alum, 
 where the heat of the atmosphere is so 
 excessive, that it is impossible to remain in 
 them above two or three minutes. Smoke 
 is frequently seen issuing from the crevices 
 in the soil, which is in a perpetual state of 
 fermentation; and, even on the margin of 
 the sea, in many places, there are springs 
 of water hot enough to boil an egg *. 
 The alum has always been held in high 
 estimation, and the salt-pits, which are 
 numerous, produce excellent salt. These 
 two articles constitute the principal traffic 
 of the natives. 
 
 * By way of experiment, \vc put an egg in this 
 water, and let it remain there for several minutes, at 
 the expiration of which, it was hot through, though 
 not sufficiently done to please me, 
 VOL. I. T 
 
138 TRAVELS 
 
 The Mlllots, from the frequent voyages 
 which they undertake to the different 
 islands of the Archipelago, are expert sail- 
 ors, and are often employed as pilots to the 
 trading vessels which are unacquainted 
 with the navigation of that sea. 
 
 The women are fanciful in their dress, 
 which, notwithstanding, is, in many re- 
 spects, clumsy and unbecoming. They 
 wear their petticoats extremely short; a 
 fashion, I should not have objected to, did 
 they not, at the same time, encumber their 
 legs with folds of linen, which totally 
 destroy all elegance and symmetry of shape. 
 They also paint their cheeks with a powder 
 which is extracted from some marine plant, 
 and, by the expression of their eyes, plainly 
 indicate their love of admiration. But in 
 this respect, you will say, they are by no 
 means singular ; for love of admiration is 
 the imiversal propensity of the sex; and 
 perhaps, it is displayed here in more lively 
 colours, only because the restraints on 
 nature are not so severe, or the artifices 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. I39 
 
 and refinements so numerous, as in the 
 polished countries of Europe. 
 
 There are several chapels and monas- 
 teries dispersed over the island, some of 
 w^hich stand in very agreeable situations. 
 The high points of land command various 
 views of the neighbouring islands of Polino, 
 Kimoli, and Siphanto. Of these, the two 
 former are barren and badly peopled: but 
 Siphanto, which is the ancient Siphnos, is 
 happy in climate, fertility, and population. 
 The gold and silver mines, which are so 
 frequently mentioned by the ancients, are 
 either unexplored from the ignorance, or 
 concealed by the prudence, of its present 
 possessors. 
 
 The harbour, as Nature has formed it, 
 is one of the finest and most capacious in 
 the world. It is nearly circular, and is 
 surrounded by lofty hills. The entrance, 
 which is on the western side, is large 
 enough to admit a vessel of any burden, 
 and, at the distance of about half a mile, 
 is covered by an immense rock, called 
 Antimilo : so that, from whatever quarter 
 
140 TRAVELS 
 
 the wind may blow, the shipping within 
 is secure. The anchorage is excellent, and 
 a few yards from the shore the water is 
 five or six fathoms deep, and so limpid 
 that the bottom may be easily discerned. 
 There is, however, this disadvantage at- 
 tending the harbour, that vessels cannot 
 possibly get out with a northerly wind, 
 and are, consequently, sometimes liable to 
 very serious detentions. 
 
 In this, as in most of the other Greek 
 islands, there is both a land and capitation 
 tax, which is levied by officers, appointed 
 by the Porte, who are very rigorous in the 
 discharge of their duty, and who, also, 
 never neglect to repay themselves hand- 
 somely for the trouble of collection. 
 
 During our detention at Milo, we w^ent 
 ashore almost every day ; but always quit- 
 ted it with the wish of taking our final leave. 
 We received, in return, frequent visits from 
 the inhabitants, many of whom came for 
 the purposes of traffic, and others merely 
 to gratify an idle curiosity. • 
 
 Amongst others, w^e made acquaintance 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. I4I 
 
 with a poor Venetian captain, whose ves- 
 sel had been wrecked in a gale of wind, as 
 he was endeavouring to enter the harbour; 
 and who gave us a melancholy history of 
 his adventures. He said, that he knew 
 not what was to become of him, as he had 
 but a distant prospect of meeting with a 
 conveyance to his own country, and the 
 Greeks had already pillaged him of the 
 greatest part of the merchandize, which 
 he had saved from the ravages of the sea. 
 How humiliating is the reflection, that a 
 correspondence of manners, between this 
 people and the inhabitants of one of the 
 most polished countries of Europe, should 
 be discovered, in one of the basest acts 
 that can degrade the character of man ! 
 You will immediately perceive, that I 
 advert to the practice of a few savages, 
 who are stationed on the Cornish coast, 
 and who derive a livelihood from the 
 plunder of the shipwrecked mariner. If 
 the stories, which I have frequently lis- 
 tened to with horrour and indignation, 
 were not confirmed beyond the possibility 
 
142 TRAVELS 
 
 of doubt, I could never have imagined 
 that such monsters were of British growth. 
 To take advantage of a man, who is an 
 unequal opponent, is the act of a coward : 
 but to strip, of what little he still possesses, 
 the unfortunate being, who throws him- 
 self on your mercy ; who implores your 
 assistance ; and whose life and fortune 
 might be rescued by a trifling exertion of 
 charity ; is a conduct so much at variance 
 with the common feelings of nature, that 
 we are at a loss how to account for the 
 predominance of such barbarous and com- 
 plicated depravity. Why is the law, in 
 these cases allowed to remain inactive ? 
 Surely, a proper degree of vigilance and 
 exertion might prevent these inhuman 
 depredations, and, in time, redeem the 
 long-lost character of that inhospitable 
 shore. The English are mild and gene- 
 rous, perhaps above every other people. 
 Why then should such an odious reproach 
 be suffered to be thrown on them by the 
 execrable and daring atrocities of a few 
 blood-thirsty pirates ? 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 143 
 
 On the 1st of April, we weighed an- 
 chor; but were unfortunately driven back 
 the following day. On the 3d, the wind, 
 favouring us a second time, we took our 
 departure at five in the evening, and, early 
 the next morning, passed between Tino 
 and Nicaria, the modern appellations of 
 Tenos and Icaria. On the former, in 
 ancient times, there was a magnificent 
 temple, consecrated to Neptune. It is 
 still very fruitful, producing a plentiful 
 harvest of excellent wine and figs, and is 
 noted for its silk, which is manuflictured, 
 by the industry of the inhabitants, into 
 stockings and other articles, and forms a 
 considerable branch of commerce. The 
 women of this island, who are very pretty, 
 are dispersed all over the Levant in the 
 capacity of servants. They preserve their 
 native dress and customs, and, such is 
 their attachment to their country, that, 
 as soon as they have amassed enough to 
 live at ease, they almost always return. 
 
 Nicaria derives its name from Icarus, 
 the son of D^dalus, who, in his flight from 
 
144 TRAVELS 
 
 Crete, was drowned near the coast *. It 
 is mountainous and barren, and the inha- 
 bitants, who arc not numerous, are incon- 
 ceivably lazy and miserably poor. The 
 only traffic they carry on is in fir and oak 
 planks, with which their woods furnish 
 them in abundance. They possess, how- 
 ever, one distinguishing and enviable cha- 
 racteristic, their dialect being allowed to 
 approach nearer to the ancient Greek than 
 that of any other modern people. 
 
 I almost regretted our progress during 
 the night, as I missed the opportunity of 
 seeing Paros, and Naxos, and Delos, along 
 whose shores we sailed. These three 
 islands are celebrated in the history of 
 ancient Greece. The former gave birth 
 to Polygnotus the painter, and to Archi- 
 lochus the inventor of iambic verse. Its 
 marble was so much esteemed, that it was 
 transported into all parts of Greece, for the 
 construction of temples, and palaces, and 
 statues : and it was here that, in the last 
 
 * See Ovid. Met. lib. viii, 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. I45 
 
 century, the Arundelian marbles were dis- 
 covered, which are preserved at Oxford 
 with such rehgious care, which have ex- 
 tended the hght of chronology, and exer- 
 cised the talents and learning of a Selden. 
 
 Naxos was the birth-place of Bacchus, 
 and the scene of his amours with the 
 beautiful Ariadne. The God continued, 
 for many centuries, the chief object of 
 adoration among its inhabitants, who, in 
 testimony of their devotion, erected a 
 magnificent temple to his honour. The 
 temple has perished ; the divinity of the 
 hero is no longer acknowledged ; but the 
 operations of nature have been uniform, 
 and the island is still distinguished for its 
 fertility, its gaiety, and its wine. 
 
 Delos, which is considered as the central 
 island of the Cyclades, and about which 
 the imagination of poets has invented so 
 many fables, is, at present, barren and 
 almost depopulated ; but it was the birth- 
 place of Apollo and Diana, and has been 
 celebrated by the muse of Pindar, Calli- 
 machus, and Horace. Here it was that 
 
 VOL. T. u 
 
146 TRAVELS 
 
 the famous Oracle, which, for many 
 ages, was venerated by the superstition of 
 all nations, delivered its mysterious an- 
 swers. Here it was, that an enlightened 
 people flocked, every five years, from all 
 parts of Greece, to assist at the games 
 which were instituted in honour of the god 
 of verse. Here it was, that the majestic 
 temple of Apollo stood, which was an 
 object of adoration throughout the civi- 
 lized countries of the globe, on which 
 kings lavished their treasures, and artists 
 their skill. 
 
 To those who are fond of the sea, 
 nothing can be more delightful than sailing 
 about the Archipelago, where the scenery 
 is almost perpetually shifting, and where 
 you seldom remain, above a few hours, 
 without being relieved from the tedious 
 and vapid sight of a boundless expanse of 
 water, which, however it may strike at 
 first from its novelty and grandeur, soon 
 loses its attractions, and palls upon the 
 sense. 
 
 In the afternoon we had a fine view of 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. I47 
 
 Sclo, one of the most populous and fertile 
 islands in the Archipelago. For its wine 
 and figs it has always been celebrated. 
 It also yields, in abundance, honey, oil, 
 and a variety of fruits and gums. Many 
 of the mountains are covered with valuable 
 timber, and the plains and vallies are 
 adorned with verdant meads, and delicious 
 groves of oranges, lemons, mulberries, 
 pomegranates, and myrtles. The culti- 
 vation of silk is very much attended to, 
 and is manufactured by the inhabitants 
 into damasks, velvets, brocades, and various 
 other stuffs, which are richly embroidered 
 with gold and silver. But the production, 
 for v.hich it is most highly distinguished, 
 is its mastic, which is the finest in the 
 world. This gum distils itself from the 
 lentisque tree, and is considered by the 
 Turks and Greeks, who are continually 
 chewing it, as a strengthener of the sto- 
 mach, and purifier of the breath. On 
 account of the superior quality of that 
 which is grown on this island, the grand 
 seignor reserves it for the use of himself 
 
148 TRAVELS 
 
 and the ladies of his harem, and sends, 
 annually, an aga to collect it. It Is ga- 
 thered and cleansed with the greatest care ; 
 and, whilst the harvest lasts, a strong 
 guard is stationed, day and night, round 
 the plantations to secure them from plun- 
 der. 
 
 The town of Scio is of considerable 
 extent, and is more regularly and sub- 
 stantially built than any other in the Le- 
 vant, which is to be attributed to its hav- 
 ing remained so long in the possession of 
 the Venetians and Genoese, who, when 
 they were driven from the country, left 
 many of their customs and arts behind 
 them. The Sclots are a shrewd, enter- 
 prising people, and some of the merchants 
 are deeply engaged in trade, and live in 
 great splendour. They are polished in 
 their manners, and the women, who are 
 remarkable for their beauty, are yery 
 thoughtless and volatile in their deport- 
 ment, and, in their dress, very fantastic*. 
 
 * Although we have no direct intercourse with 
 Scio, a British consul is established there. He is 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. I49 
 
 Opposite the town of Scio, on the Asian 
 coast, lies Chesme, so celebrated for the 
 signal naval victory, which the Russians, 
 in the month of July 1770, gained over 
 the Turks. Under the command of count 
 Orlow, with nine sail of the line and six 
 frigates, they attacked the Turkish fleet, 
 consisting of twenty-five large ships, in the 
 very harbour of Chesme, to which they 
 had retreated for safety. By the judicious 
 management of the Russian fire-ships, this 
 formidable force was entirely consumed, 
 except a few small vessels, which were 
 captured. Never was victory more com- 
 plete; and had the Russians followed up 
 their success, and taken advantage of the 
 consternation which prevailed, they might, 
 perhaps, have given a fatal blow to the 
 independence of the Ottoman empire*. 
 
 generally a native, and, from the privileges attached 
 to the office, there is always a strong competition for 
 the appointment. 
 
 * See a particular and spirited account of this 
 action, Voy. Pittoresque de la Grece, p. 94. 
 
 I have since learnt that the Russians were entirely 
 
150 TRAVELS 
 
 The wind continuing northerly, we 
 were obHged to advance within a few 
 miles of Mitylene, before we could double 
 the point of land which forms the gulph 
 of Smyrna. 
 
 This island is the ancient Lesbos, near 
 
 indebted for their success to the dexterous manage- 
 ment and intrepid conduct of admiral Elphinstone, 
 commodore Greig, and Hcutcnant Dugdale, three 
 British officers in their service, who prepared the fire 
 shms, and directed the movements of the squadron. 
 Orlow, as every one knows, for reasons of the most 
 diabolical nature, was one of the many flivourites of 
 Catharine; and de Choiseul, willing to flatter an 
 abandoned, but powerful. Princess, by attributing 
 the victory to him, ofl'ered an incense which he 
 knew would be graciously received. What, how- 
 ever, the ignorance, or the design, of one French- 
 man has omitted, the justice of another has inserted; 
 and it must be very gratifying to every Englishman 
 to know, that the account of this action given by 
 L'Eveque, in his history of Russia, is the authentic 
 one. 
 
 The fame of all former victories has, however, 
 been since eclipsed by that which lord Nelson 
 gained over the French at Aboukir; a victory, which, 
 whether considered as the result of bravery or skill, 
 far surpasses in splendour every thing recorded in 
 history. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. I5I 
 
 •whose shores the Athenians gained their 
 splendid victory over the Lacedemonian 
 fleet, commanded by Callicratidas *. In 
 those days, it w^as the seat of learning 
 and the polite arts, and as distinguish- 
 ed for its dissipation as its genius. It 
 gave birth to Pittacus, Alcaeus, Sappho, 
 Terpander, Theophrastus, and several other 
 illustrious philosophers and poets; and 
 here it was that Aristotle studied, and Epi- 
 curus taught. It was one of the last 
 islands that remained, in the possession of 
 the Christians, after the subjugation of 
 Constantinople by the Turks ; and, though 
 the population has considerably dwindled, 
 its cultivation has not been neglected, and 
 it is still fruitful in wine and figs. The 
 most remarkable circumstance, attending 
 its modern history, is, that one of the vil- 
 
 * This event happened in the second year of the 
 93d Olympiad, and the twenty-fifth of the Pelopon- 
 nesian war. Conon, who commanded the Athenians, 
 after being twice defeated, at last terminated the 
 contest by the total overthrow and death of his adver- 
 sary.— See Xenophon, lib. i. Hist. Graec. 
 
152 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 lages is entirely peopled by lepers. These 
 unfortunate inheritors of disease are not 
 suffered to have any communication with 
 the other inhabitants, but they intermarry 
 among themselves, and are said to carry 
 on the various concerns of life, with as 
 much cheerfulness and zeal, as if they 
 ■were free from the ravages of this cruel 
 distemper. 
 
 On the 4th, in the morning, we en- 
 tered the gulph of Smyrna. It is bounded 
 on each side by high mountains, which 
 are clothed with the brightest verdure, and 
 present a scenery that is truly romantic. 
 We had not advanced far before we came 
 to a village, which is supposed to be the 
 spot where Clazomene once stood, a city 
 frequently mentioned in the history of 
 ancient Greece. 
 
 Owing to a dead calm, an obstacle 
 which increased my anxiety to arrive, we 
 did not come in sight of the marine castle 
 till the morning of the 6th. It is situated 
 on the sea shore, and is a large square stone 
 structure, flanked with bastions, and plant- 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. I53 
 
 ed with a few large rusty cannons, which, 
 when considered as a place of defence, 
 only serve to render it contemptible. I, 
 however, viewed it with the most lively 
 satisfaction, as it enabled me to contem- 
 plate the speedy conclusion of an irksome 
 voyage, and a happy release from a most 
 unpleasant confinement. Every vessel, at 
 its departure from Smyrna, pays, as a kind 
 of tribute to this fortress, a dollar and a 
 cartridge of powder, which are perquisites 
 allowed to the officers established there, 
 and constitute nearly the whole of their 
 stipend. 
 
 Shortly after passing it, I was gratified 
 with the sight of Smyrna, whose situation, 
 as we approached, I had time to observe, 
 and to admire. It is built on the declivity 
 of a hill, on whose summit are the ruins 
 of a spacious castle, w hich commands every 
 part of the city, and which, if in repair, 
 and properly fortified, might enable it to 
 make a stout defence. On the opposite 
 side, it is washed by the sea, which forms 
 
 VOL. I. X 
 
154 TRAVELS 
 
 one of the most capacious and beautiful 
 bays In the world. 
 
 I had observed In the gulph, and even 
 within a few miles of the harbour, several 
 armed boats, crowded with men, who, 
 on inquiry, I found were Barbary pirates, 
 hovering about, in quest of prey, and 
 watching for an opportunity to surprise 
 some defenceless vessel. I needed no 
 stronger proof to be convinced of the de- 
 bility and corruption of the Turkish go- 
 vernment. 
 
 About five o'clock in the afternoon, I 
 landed, and was immediately conducted 
 to Mr. Perkins's house, where I had the 
 mortification to learn that the family w^as 
 in the country. My impatience to see 
 my brother* was, however, too great to 
 brook delay. I therefore immediately set 
 
 * My brother had been staying at Smyrna, in the 
 house of the above gentleman, for upwards of two 
 years. One of the principal inducements which took 
 me so far from home was, that I might have the 
 pleasure and advantage of reairning with him. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. I55 
 
 off for Bournabat (a village at which 
 Mr. Perkins has his summer residence) 
 and, in the course of an hour, had the 
 happiness of embracing a brother and a 
 friend. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
15^ TRAVELS 
 
 LETTER XL 
 
 Smyrna, April 23, 1 7<)2, 
 
 Seven cities dispute the honour 
 of Homer's birth. According to the best 
 founded opinions, Smyrna is alone entitled 
 to the claim. A spot of ground is shewn, 
 on which it is conjectured the school of 
 that divine poet stood, and within whose 
 walls he is supposed to have finished 
 his immortal Iliad. In those days, it 
 might have been insignificant in point of 
 extent and population. Through suc- 
 ceeding ages, the production of perhaps 
 the sublimest genius, that the world ever 
 saw, has been a glorious and enviable 
 distinction. 
 
 Smyrna, notwithstanding the various 
 revolutions and disasters which it has ex- 
 perienced, is still a considerable city, being 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. I57 
 
 about a mile and a half in length, and 
 nearly of the same breadth. The inha- 
 bitants are composed of Turks, Greeks, 
 Jews, Armenians, and Franks, and are 
 computed to amount to about one hun- 
 dred thousand*. 
 
 All the Europeans, who are not sub- 
 ject to the grand seignor, are indiscri- 
 minately called Franks) and, at present, 
 they consist of British, French, Dutch, 
 Neapolitans, Venetians, and Ragusans, who 
 have each a consul appointed, by their 
 respective states, to watch over the inte- 
 rests of their trade. These consuls are 
 held in high consideration by the Turks ; 
 are allowed janizaries for the defence of 
 their persons; and have even the power 
 
 * The population of Smyrna has wonderfully in- 
 creased within the last sixty years. It is at present, 
 by many, rated as high as one hundred end thirty 
 thousand. As, however, they have no means of 
 ascertaining the exact number, their opinions must, 
 in a great measure, be founded on conjecture. I 
 have, on that account, avoided the extreme of calcula- 
 tion on this head, and am probably nearer the truth. 
 
158 TRAVELS 
 
 of extending their protection to a certain 
 number of individuals who belong to the 
 Turkish government. 
 
 The admirable situation of Smyrna, 
 standing on a central point between Con- 
 stantinople, Aleppo, and Salonica, and the 
 various privileges and immunities which 
 are granted to the Franks, have combined 
 to distinguish it for its commercial spi- 
 rit, and to render it one of the great marts 
 for almost all the productions of the 
 East. 
 
 Since my arrival here, part of my leisure 
 time has been employed in making in- 
 quiries concerning the commerce of this 
 extensive empire; and I shall, however 
 irrelevant it may, at first view, appear to 
 female contemplation, take the liberty of 
 communicating the result of them to you. 
 I am sure you will not repent reading it, 
 for commerce in its outline embraces an 
 extensive and noble field for meditation, 
 and must ever be regarded as an object of 
 interest and curiosity by every inquisitive 
 mind. It is the grand machine which 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 159 
 
 stimulates the exertions of industry and 
 genius ; which excites the spirit of enter- 
 prise ; and which, by estabhshing a friendly 
 and lucrative intercourse between inde- 
 pendent states, most powerfully conduces 
 to preserve peace, to remove prejudices, 
 to supply mutual wants, to circulate 
 mutual advantages, and to mingle, as it 
 were, into one mass, nations, and languages, 
 and customs. It is, indeed, in every point 
 of view, an important subject for discus- 
 sion ; and, after what I have premised, I 
 am confident there will be no occasion for 
 further apology. 
 
 Considering the local advantages which 
 Turkey possesses ; the difference of its 
 climate ; the extensive course of its nume- 
 rous navigable rivers ; the immense circuit 
 of its seas ; and the infinite variety of its 
 productions ; it seems to have been designed, 
 by Nature, to take the lead amongst the- 
 commercial nations of the world. But, 
 unfortunately, the absurd prejudices of its 
 people, and the odious vices of its govern- 
 ment, are at perpetual enmity with pro- 
 
l6o TRAVELS 
 
 gressivc improvement, and discourage every 
 description of individual exertion. The 
 despotism and superstition of Turkey arc 
 injurious to its population, to its culture, 
 but, above all, to its trade. Before a man 
 can be prevailed on to engage in any 
 undertaking, which demands the appli- 
 cation of industry and genius, and the 
 expenditure of money and time, he first 
 requires a security for the reward of his 
 labours, and an indemnity for the freedom 
 of his actions ; for commerce appears to 
 be that pursuit which thrives least under 
 penalties and restraints. But, in Turkey, 
 where the rich and the poor live in per- 
 petual distrust and hatred of each other ; 
 where intestine broils and jealousies are 
 continually fomenting between the gover- 
 nors and the governed ; where whole pro- 
 vinces are frequently devastated and ruined 
 by the pride and avarice of the pachas ; 
 where there are few conveniences, and 
 but little safety, for the inland transport- 
 ation of goods ; where bands of ferocious 
 robbers appear in such force, that they 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. l6l 
 
 can effect their predatory excursions with 
 impunity; where a moral sense of justice 
 acts as no restraint on the conduct of 
 men; and where nothing but strength 
 can insure protection : under all these in- 
 cumbrances and difficulties, it is, perhaps, 
 more surprising that it should have reached, 
 than that it should not have surpassed, its 
 present extent. 
 
 Merchants, from most of the states of 
 Christendom, are established in all the 
 great cities of the Ottoman empire; but 
 the principal part of the foreign trade is 
 engrossed by the British, the French, the 
 Dutch, and the Venetians. As we are 
 chiefly interested in what regards Eng- 
 land, I shall confine myself principally to 
 our connexion with the Levant, alluding, 
 however, now and then, to other countries, 
 as they oppose, or interfere with, our 
 interests. 
 
 The French were the first Christian 
 people that formed an alliance with the 
 Turks*; and, in consequence of that 
 
 * See Robertson's Charles V. vol. iii. p. 147. 
 VOL, I, y 
 
l6z TRAVELS 
 
 priority of intercourse, have cemented a 
 firmer friendship than any other European 
 nation, and secured many privileges and 
 advantages which we have never been 
 able to obtain*. 
 
 The earUest commercial treaty, between 
 England and Turkey, took place in the 
 reign of Elizabeth, when the company 
 was first established f. Since that period, 
 except when checked by the insuperable 
 consequences of w^ar, the connexion has 
 been gradually expanding, and constitutes, at 
 
 * This influence, which so materially opposed our 
 commercial views to this quarter, we had completely 
 overthrown by one of the most brilliant events of the 
 late war. What, however, was gained in the field 
 has been, not only in this, but in many other instan- 
 ces, unaccountably lost in the cabinet; and the 
 revival of the ascendency of the French party at 
 Constantinople is to be entirely attributed to our 
 own mismanagement and neglect. One of the 
 leading objects of the present French government is 
 to regain Egypt by any means. We have already 
 had proof of their good faith. Our confidence ought 
 to be commensurate. 
 
 t See Anderson's Origin of Commerce, vol. ii. 
 p. 119. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 163 
 
 present, a lucrative and extensive branch of 
 traffic *. 
 
 The articles, exported from Great Britain 
 to Turkey, are either of our own manu- 
 facture, or are commodities which we re- 
 ceive from our settlements in the East and 
 West Indies ; viz. shalloons, fine cloths 
 called mahoots, lead, lead shot, cutlery, 
 pistols, iron in bars, tin, tin plates, indigo, 
 cochineal, loaf sugar, gunpowder, butter, 
 pepper, pimento, muslins, coffee, and log- 
 wood. The imports consist chiefly of raw 
 materials which are consumed by our own 
 manufactures, and are, cotton, goats' and 
 sheeps' wool, yarn, mohair, silk, madder 
 roots, yellow berries, sponges, carpets, 
 
 * On a comparison of the exports and imports 
 from the company's books for the three successive 
 years of 1785, 86, and 87, it appears that the total 
 value of goods, from Smyrna alone, to this country, 
 amounted, on an average, to ^'.463,349 sterling, and 
 those sent from London to Smyrna to ,^.423,548. 
 For 1790, 91, and 92, the three years preceding the 
 war, the exports and imports, to and from the same 
 place, amounted, on an average, the one tOj^.779,6iO, 
 the other to ^.848,380 sterling. 
 
164 TRAVELS 
 
 black fruit, figs, wax, Angora goats' skins, 
 with the following drugs; viz. aloes, scam- 
 mony, senna, opium, gums galbanum, 
 arabic, tragacanth, mastich, and ammoniac. 
 We, thus, in every point of view, reap 
 the benefits of this connexion, for the im- 
 portations employ our industry, and call 
 forth our ingenuity, and the exportations 
 may be considered as an aggregate, of what 
 that industry and ingenuity produce. 
 
 The principal articles which are furnish- 
 ed by the French, are West India produce, 
 cloths, and bullion, which last they export 
 to a very large amount. The situation 
 of Marseilles, whence all their merchant- 
 vessels sail, which are bound for the Le- 
 vant, gives them a considerable superiority 
 over us, as the position of its harbour is 
 very convenient, and not above half the 
 distance of any of our ports. The addi- 
 tional advantage of a lazaretto for the 
 reception of merchandize from the East, 
 also, allows their vessels to perform, at all 
 times, a direct voyage, without subjecting 
 their country to the danger of infection 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 1 65 
 
 from the plague ; for the laws by which 
 it is regulated are judicious and rigidly en- 
 forced. When the goods are once depo- 
 sited, and arranged, in the magazines, 
 although they are not suffered to be 
 touched, they may be inspected at a 
 small distance, so that bargains may be 
 contracted whilst they are under quaran- 
 tine, and the merchant sustains scarcely any 
 inconvenience from adventitious charges 
 or delay. 
 
 In the article of seraglio cloths, which 
 are sent from France to Turkey, to a very 
 considerable value, we have been but 
 faint competitors ; and although the inge- 
 nuity of our manufacturers may, at some 
 future period, be able to rival the quality, 
 yet I fear the difference in the price will 
 always prove an obvious hindrance to their 
 introduction at the different marts in the 
 Levant. Our shalloons, however, are held 
 in high repute, and have materially les- 
 sened the sale of the French cloths ; and, 
 in the articles of cutlery and tin, we are 
 without a rival. 
 
l66 TRAVELS 
 
 From the above sketch it is manifest, 
 that if this branch of our trade were to 
 receive proper encouragement, it would 
 become a considerable source of growing 
 mdustry and revenue to the country. 
 There is, however, one grand impediment 
 which cramps its energy, and operates as 
 an insurmountable barrier against the ful- 
 ness of success. This is the want of a 
 lazaretto, with which almost every other 
 state, commercially connected with Tur* 
 key, is provided. From this deficiency 
 our trade is sometimes subjected to burdens 
 and inconveniencies which are so seriously 
 felt, that they almost amount to a prohi- 
 bition, and the country is exposed to the 
 risk of catching a most infectious and 
 loathsome disease*. 
 
 * To guard against the contagion of this dreadful 
 scourge, our government has thought fit to order that 
 no vessel shall be suffered to load directly for England, 
 until forty days subsequent to the last accident of the 
 plague. If an accident happen whilst she is loading, 
 all communication with the shore must, from that 
 moment, cease for the above space of time, when she 
 may continue to take in her carg'o, But if a vessel. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 167 
 
 The duties imposed on the diiierent 
 commodities which arrive at Smyrna from 
 
 destined for England, receive any part of her cargo, 
 or if any person belonging to her have the least inter- 
 course with those on shore, whilst the plague shews 
 itself in the slightest degree, our consul is bound to 
 issue a foul bill of health, constraining her to make 
 a circuitous voyage, and to perform six weeks quaran- 
 tine at Malta, Messina, Venice, or Leghorn, which, 
 besides the enormous expence that is inevitably in- 
 curred by tlie landing and reshippjng of the goods, 
 and various other contingencies, occasions a deten- 
 tion of from six to seven months. The hardships and 
 inconveniencies of these regulations are sufficiently 
 palpable, nor do they at all conduce to the pro- 
 motion of their principal object, a security against 
 the plague. 
 
 The sole advantage of them is felt by the Dutch, 
 who, by a very simple operation, forestalour markets, 
 and expose us to this most melancholy of all afflic- 
 tions. Whilst our pierchant- ships are performing 
 quarantine in distant and foreign ports, the Dutch, 
 who are by no means so scrupulous, suffer their own 
 vessels to proceed directly to Holland, where they are 
 subjected to a partial, slovenly quarantine, which is 
 complied with, bv shipping a few bales of goods on 
 board lighters which lie along side them, for the 
 space of ten days or a fortnight. Sometimes, even 
 this slight inconvenience is evaded, and, immediately 
 on the arrival of a trading vessel from Turkey, the 
 
t68 TRAVELS 
 
 foreign parts, are not under any general 
 regulation (some nations being much 
 
 merchandize is removed into ships dispatched from 
 England purposely for their reception, and, by this 
 manoeuvre, escapes quarantine altogether. They are 
 then expedited to some English port, where they 
 arrive several months before those belonging to our 
 regular trade, and of course reap all the benefit which 
 arises from an early supply of our markets. 
 
 It is a notorious fact, that about ten thousand 
 bales of cotton, principally from Holland, are im- 
 ported into England in this evasive manner, and not 
 above seven thousand in the regular trading British 
 vessels. Many other articles, which are consumed 
 by our manufactures, are received nearly in the same 
 proportion. Now, a lazaretto would at once suppress 
 this injurious traffic, a greater encouragement would 
 be given to our shipping, and those profits which at 
 present accrue to the Dutch, would be shared by our 
 own merchants and manufacturers, vi^ho are certainly 
 entitled to every indulgence and preference. 
 
 It is an object which might also be very easily ac- 
 complished without any expence to government, as 
 the increased prosperity of the trade could well bear 
 a small duty on cottons and other articles of importa- 
 tion, which would be sufficient to defray the charges 
 of the establishment. 
 
 In consequence of a memorial from the Turkey 
 company, presented to the board of trade in the year 
 1792, the measure was so far acceded to, that orders 
 were given for the purchase of a piece of ground, near 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. l6g 
 
 more favoured than others), nor are the 
 custom-house laws, in any respect, strict. 
 When smuggled goods are seized, they are 
 not confiscated, but are only liable to pay 
 double the amount of the duties, or some 
 
 Standgate Creek, on the Kentish coast, for the erec- 
 tion of a lazaretto; but when the present war com- 
 menced, so many objects of greater moment pressed 
 on the attention of ministers, that the plan was aban- 
 doned. If, however, this branch of the commercial 
 interests of the country is attended to, it will be 
 speedily renewed. It is, moreover, a consideration 
 which, at this moment, presents itself with peculiar 
 energy and weight. Both the French and the Dutch, 
 in consequence of foreign war and internal distrac- 
 tions, have been completely degraded from their rank 
 in the scale of commercial nations. Their trade, in 
 every quarter of the globe, has been nearly annihilated, 
 and we are, at present, as far as commerce is con- 
 cerned, not only without a rival, but almost without 
 a competitor. It will depend on our own skill and 
 management, on the return of peace, what portion 
 of the trade of the world we reserve to ourselves, and 
 we ought certainly to be watchful to secure it, before 
 it has time to revert to its old and natural channels. 
 This, in- fact, is the only method or chance we have 
 of indemnifying ourselves, in any Important degree, 
 for the sufferings to which a bitter and implacable 
 eneiTiy has so long exposed us. 
 
 VOL. I. Z 
 
\yO TRAVELS 
 
 such moderate fine ; a method of proceed- 
 ing which would, by no means, answer 
 with us. 
 
 All commercial concerns, between the 
 Franks and the Turks are conducted 
 through the medium of the Jews and 
 Armenians, who act as brokers, and buy 
 and sell every article of merchandize. 
 
 These two nations are also deeply en- 
 gaged in business on their own account, 
 and have connexions with all the great 
 cities in the East. With the character of 
 the Jews every body is sufficiently ac- 
 quainted. That of the Armenians is 
 not so generally understood. They are 
 no longer a great, an opulent, and a 
 powerful people, governed by their own 
 princes, and asserting their own indepen- 
 dence. Their country has experienced 
 numerous revolutions. It has been over- 
 run and subjugated by different powers ; 
 and, under the dominion of a foreign yoke, 
 all national spirit and pride have com- 
 pletely evaporated. Their attachment to 
 the land of their ancestors is gone ; and 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. I^I 
 
 they are now dispersed, over different parts 
 of Asia and Europe, in the character of 
 merchants and priests. They are sober, 
 industrious, poUte, and hospitable. They 
 have scarcely any ambition. They never 
 aspire at distinction in the luminous career 
 of politics or arms ; but content themselves 
 with the humble and peaceful occupations 
 of trade, which they pursue with indefa- 
 tigable zeal. They are reserved in their 
 manners, rigid in their morals, and, gene- 
 rally speaking, honest in their dealings. 
 They are devout 'Christians, and scrupu- 
 lously observe their lents, which last about 
 seven months in the year,, during which 
 time they abstain from flesh, and live, 
 almost entirely, on herbs and roots. Their 
 monastic rites are extremely rigorous, 
 restraining their appetites to the absolute 
 necessities of life, and enjoining almost 
 continual prayer or penance and mortifi- 
 cation. Their priests are allowed to marry 
 once, but the dignified clergy is denied 
 this indulgence. Their patriarch, who is 
 approved of by the grand seignor, resides 
 
T72 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 at Ekmiasin, about three leagues from 
 Erivan in Persia, where he holds his court, 
 and derives an ample revenue from a small 
 tax which is levied on every male person, 
 within his spiritual jurisdiction, who has 
 passed his fifteenth year. His authority 
 over the members of the church is abso- 
 lute ; and the place of his residence is 
 regarded with such pious devotion, that 
 those, who are filled with the true spirit of 
 religious zeal, conceive it to be an indispen- 
 sable act of duty to perform a pilgrimage 
 to it, at least once in the course of their 
 lives. The lower classes of the priest- 
 hood are brutally ignorant, and miserably 
 poor ; and derive their only support from 
 practising on the credulity of their flock. 
 Although they have long been separated 
 from the Greek church, the outward cere- 
 monies of the two religions are closely 
 allied. Their marriages and burials are 
 attended with considerable pomp, and the 
 conclusion of each respective ceremony is 
 a substantial repast. The women are 
 handsome, which is perhaps one cause of 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. I73 
 
 the jealousy of their husbands, who think 
 it prudent to keep them out of the way 
 of temptation, by detaining them prisoners 
 at home. 
 
 There being no carts, all kinds of goods 
 are transported from one part of Smyrna 
 to another on men's shoulders. The por- 
 ters are consequently very numerous, and, 
 although their profession is considered as 
 degrading, it is so lucrative, that there is 
 always a greater number of candidates than 
 the public service requires. They are ap- 
 pointed by the government ; and, to ac- 
 commodate matters among them, a certain 
 proportion is every year obliged to go out, 
 by rotation, to make room for the preten- 
 sions of others. These men, from their 
 continual habits of exertion, are endowed 
 with astonishing muscular strength. The 
 burden they carry is placed on a wooden 
 frame, which is fastened across their 
 shoulders, and hangs a considerable way 
 down their backs ; so that when it is a 
 heavy one, they walk with their bodies 
 curved, and their hands resting on their 
 
174 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 knees, a position which, to our I ondon 
 porters, would appear to be a very fatiguing 
 one. They however find it the most con- 
 venient, and many of them can not only- 
 support, but carry, for some distance, a 
 bale of carpets, which generally weighs 
 between six and seven hundred pounds. 
 
 When a man fails in trade, in Turkey, 
 he is not cited to appear before any tri- 
 bunal to have his affairs investigated and 
 settled, nor is any certificate from his 
 creditors requisite, to liberate him from 
 the persecution of future claimants. If he 
 be an honest man, all he has to do, is to 
 surrender his effects, when a division of 
 them is made among his creditors, accord- 
 ing to the amount of their respective debts ; 
 which ceremony being gone through, he is 
 no longer liable for what remains unliqui- 
 dated. This method of proceeding gives, 
 however, a great encouragement to those 
 deceptions which the operation even of 
 our severer laws cannot altogether pre- 
 vent ; and it does not unfrequently hap- 
 pen, that a rascal pretends he can no 
 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 175 
 
 longer carry on his business, whilst his 
 circumstances are still flourishing; and 
 concealing the greatest part of his property, 
 or confiding it to the care of a friend, a 
 fictitious dividend is contrived, and, in 
 the course of a few months, he ventures 
 to resume it. 
 
 The streets of Smyrna are narrow, 
 dirty, inconvenient, and badly paved. The 
 architecture of the houses is slovenly and 
 uncouth, and the principal material of 
 which they are built is wood ; so that the 
 effects of fire are frequently dreadful. But 
 the Turks, in defiance of all experience, 
 are such confirmed enemies to improve- 
 ment, that no persuasion can remove their 
 prejudices, or surmount their ignorance. 
 In the year 1 778, when almost the whole 
 city was reduced to ashes, by a violent 
 conflagration, the Franks, who were settled 
 there, offered to rebuild it, on a handsome, 
 convenient, and extensive plan, which was 
 drawn out, and submitted to the Turks 
 for their inspection and approbation. 
 They took some little tirne to consider 
 
iy6 TRAVELS 
 
 on the merits of the proposal ; but, as 
 they were unable to conceive how the 
 alteration would promote their interest, 
 they at length resolved to reject it. 
 
 Some of the houses, however, belong- 
 ing to the Franks, who all reside in a 
 street which runs along the harbour, are 
 regularly and substantially built*. The 
 moschs, though not splendid, are numerously 
 
 * The Frank quarter of the town is no longer in 
 this state. Since my departure it has been reduced 
 almost entirely to ashes. Of this tragical event I 
 have received, from a friend, who was an eye-witness 
 of the scene, the following particulars. 
 
 On the loth of March i797, a number of people, 
 of all nations, assembled at the English hospital, to 
 see the performance of some rope-dancers who had 
 lately arrived. Several of the consuls were among 
 the spectators, and, as is usual, their janizaries were 
 posted at the entrance. During the performance, 
 some Zantiots, who were known to be dissolute, ill- 
 disposed people, approached the door, and insolently 
 demanded admission. On being refused, they 
 attempted to enter by force, which was resisted by the 
 janizaries, one of whom, at last, in order to intimi- 
 date them, imprudently fired a pistol in the air. 
 This was the signal of hostilities, and the Zantiots, 
 retiring, shortly returned, in greater force, and well 
 
THROUGH TURKEY 
 
 i;7 
 
 and the bazar -^- is extensive, and well 
 supplied. The harbour is capacious and 
 
 armed. A serious scuffle commenGed, several pistols 
 were discharged by each party, and the business con- 
 cluded, for that evening, vi^ith the death of a janizary, 
 who belonged to a corps eminently distinguished 
 for their lofty spirit and insubordinate manners; 
 His comrades, determined to revenge his death, went, 
 the following morning, to the cadi, and formally 
 demanded that the assassin should, without delay, be 
 delivered into their hands. This demand was immedi- 
 ately communicated to the consuls, who, on their part, 
 complained of the outrage and danger to which they 
 had been exposed. The Venetian consul asserted it 
 was a Russian subject, and the Russian consul, that 
 it was a Venetian subject, who had committed the 
 murder, and this altercation terminated, by their both 
 declaring, that, to whichsoever nation he belonged, 
 he could not now be given up, as he had effected his 
 escape. This peaceable intercourse, between the 
 parties, was but of short duration. The janizaries 
 at length became irritable and impatient, and, col- 
 lecting in a strong body, insisted, with menaces, on 
 
 the 
 
 * In Turkey the shops are not dispersed through 
 the different streets of a town, as with us ; but are 
 collected together in places which are called bazars, 
 or bezestines. 
 
 VOL. I. A A 
 
178 TRAVELS 
 
 secure, and exhibits a scene of perpetual 
 bustle and business. It is often crowded 
 
 the immediate surrender of the guilty person. The 
 consuls, still undetermined how to act, requested 
 time to deliberate, not imagining the shocking ca- 
 tastrophe which was about to follow. Shortly after, 
 the inhabitants, seeing that matters were likely to 
 come to extremities, began to withdraw to their 
 houses, and shut up their shops. All, however, 
 might still have passed without any further tragical 
 event, had not the Sclavonians, on hearing that the 
 Turks were assembled in arms, in a numerous body, 
 in Frank-street, left their vessels, and come ashore. 
 The moment they landed, they repaired to the spot, 
 bent on mischief and bloodshed. The hostile parties 
 no sooner met, than a discharge of fire-arms took 
 place. Which was the aggressor is uncertain j but 
 two Turks were killed at the onset, which so enraged 
 their countrymen, that they set fire to an apothecary's 
 shop, about the middle of the street. The moment 
 of reconciliation was now lost, and, resentment and 
 consternation increasing and spreading on every side, 
 a scene of unspeakable horrour and confusion ensued. 
 There was not time to save merchandize, or furni- 
 ture, or apparel j all they could hope to preserve was 
 their lives, and that was effected only by a preqipitate 
 and clandestine retreat. Almost every house was 
 deserted, and the people, with their wives and chil- 
 dren, in a state of the most dreadful distraction and 
 alarm, fled towards the quays, that they might reach 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. I79 
 
 with merchantmen from different parts of 
 the globe, and the European powers in 
 amity with the Turks, particularly the 
 English and French, have generally some 
 
 the shipping in the harbour, which they considered as 
 a place of safety. In this project, they were assisted 
 by the diligence and humanity of capt. Stevenson, 
 of the Withywood, who dispatched boats for their 
 reception, and generously provided them with every 
 thing they stood in need of, whilst they were under 
 his protection. They remained on board twenty-four 
 hours, in a state of the most anxious suspense, for 
 they had the mortification to behold their houses in 
 flames, whilst their ears were assailed, at intervals, 
 with the reports made by the explosion of their fire- 
 proof magazines, many of which, from the intensity 
 of the heat, blew up, and others were broken open, 
 and plundered by the Turks and Sclavonians. On 
 their return, the marks of pillage, and devastation, 
 and blood, were everywhere visible. Almost every 
 house in Frank-street was reduced to ashes, and the 
 Armenian quarter of the city suffered nearly the same 
 fate. About twelve hundred Greeks, besides Turks, 
 perished in this affray, and the loss of property sus- 
 tained, is estimated at seven millions of dollars, which, 
 at the exchange of two shillings, amount to the 
 enormous sum of seven hundred thousand pounds 
 sterling. 
 
 The French, through the medium of their am- 
 
l8o TRAVELS 
 
 frigates riding at anchor. The anchorage 
 is good, and the water so deep, that ves- 
 sels can approach, within a few yards of the 
 wharf, to unload. 
 
 The internal government of the city 
 is managed by a sardar who commands 
 the janizaries, and a cadi who administers 
 justice. But the police is very badly ar- 
 ranged, and riots of the most serious na- 
 ture, which the civil power is unable to 
 repress, frequently occur. Justice is pol- 
 luted at its very source. The magistracy 
 is entirely under the influence of the opu- 
 lent, and, if you can afford to bribe the 
 expounders of the law, you may commit 
 any crime with impunity. The Sclavo- 
 nians resident in this city are very nume- 
 rous. They are a savage and lawless race, 
 constantly exciting disturbances, and ever 
 disposed to proceed to acts of the most 
 daring and atrocious violence. 
 
 bassador, applied to the Porte for an indemnification, 
 and have, in some measure, obtained it. We arc 
 also applying; but have not very sanguine hopes of 
 yuccess. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. l8l 
 
 Notwithstanding the high antiquity of 
 Smyrna*, it can boast of no monuments 
 of former times, sufficiently respectable 
 either to reward the labours, or stimulate 
 the researches, of curiosity. Scarcely any 
 vestiges of those magnificent temples, 
 amphitheatres, and porticos, which are so 
 frequently the theme of the ancient writers, 
 are now discernible. The castle is only 
 remarkable for its extent, and its situation ; 
 and although there be no certain tradition 
 of the exact time of its elevation, the style 
 of its architecture affords a sufficient proof 
 that it is the production of a barbarous 
 age f . Near it, there were formerly some 
 
 * Smyrna Is one of the most ancient cities in the 
 world, and was also one of the seven churches of 
 Asia, spoken of in the Apocalypse. The other six 
 were, Ephesus, Pergamus, Thyatira, Sardis, Laodicea, 
 and Philadelphia. 
 
 t Tournefort, in his Travels, vol. Hi. p. 3 SO, 
 speaking of this castle, says, it was built by John 
 Ducas. — Chandler, in his Travels into Asia Minor, 
 p. 6i, says, that it wsls re-edified by John Angelus 
 Comnenus. 
 
iSs TRAVELS 
 
 fine ruins of a theatre, which was built of 
 beautiful marble ; but which the Turks 
 have long since completely demolished for 
 the sake of the stone, which was employed 
 in the erection of a bazar and a caravansary. 
 Some trifling remains of a circus, and the 
 skeleton of a church, are still apparent ; 
 and the Greeks, who preserve the memory 
 of St. Polycarp, the first bishop of Smyrna, 
 continue to venerate the spot where his 
 ai^hes are said to repose. Neither are the 
 environs rendered interesting by many 
 visible marks of the splendour of former 
 times. The aqueduct on the road to 
 Sedequi (a village a few miles from the 
 city) which is evidently some remnant of 
 Roman taste and solidity, is the only re- 
 markable monument now extant. 
 
 The once celebrated river Meles, on 
 whose banks Homer has often reclined, 
 and where statues and temples were once 
 raised to his honour, is now a small brook, 
 which, in winter time, is not much broader 
 than a ditch, and, in summer, is perfectly 
 dry. On its margin stands a stone pillar, 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 183 
 
 sacred to the genius of the river, and 
 which is indebted for its elevation to the 
 following incident. The country being 
 afflicted with a pestilence, w^hich made 
 unusual ravages, the terrified inhabitants 
 vowed to erect a monument to the glory 
 of the tutelar divinity of the river, if he 
 would kindly listen to their prayers, and 
 extricate them from the calamities under 
 which they groaned. His godship was 
 propitious, and the vow was fulfilled. At 
 no great distance from this spot, there is a 
 piece of running w^ater, which is allowed 
 to retain the classical appellation of Diana's 
 bath. They have, indeed, in this country 
 a tradition of the fabulous story of Actccon, 
 and they believe it was in this stream, that 
 the amorous youth surprised the chaste 
 goddess and her nymphs. They have 
 retained the errours and superstition of the 
 ancients ; but their science and skill in 
 philosophy, in government, and in arts, 
 are, alas ! no more. 
 
 An amazing number of camels are con- 
 tinually browsing on the hills near Smyrna, 
 
184 TRAVELS 
 
 These animals are the principal beasts of 
 burden in most eastern countries, being 
 much better calculated for the purposes 
 of labour than their horses, which, al- 
 though full of spirit, are diminutive, and 
 incapable of much fatigue. The camels 
 are swift, strong, patient, and tractable. 
 They are taught to lie down to receive 
 their burden, which is placed on their 
 backs with great caution, and their bunch, 
 on account of its tenderness, is first en- 
 veloped with folds of thick linen, to secure 
 it from bruises. Several hundreds of them 
 frequently travel in the same caravan, and 
 are tied together in strings of forty or fifty, 
 with a man at their head, mounted on an 
 ass or a mule, who leads them. Their 
 ordinary pace is three miles an hour, and 
 they halt at stated distances*. 
 
 * Buffon, with his usual perspicuity, explains the 
 different species of these useful animals. Those with 
 two bunches, which are generally known under the 
 name of dromedary, are peculiar to Turkey. The camel 
 has but one bunch, and is scattered over Arabia, 
 Persia, and almost every region of the East. These 
 
THROIJGH TURKEY. 185 
 
 On account of the plague, which had 
 broken out a short time before my arrival^ 
 and which was beginning to extend its 
 ravages very fast, my friends advised me 
 not to expose myself, unnecessarily, by 
 walking about the city. Had the Coli- 
 seum* reared its stately head in its very 
 centre, however difficult and dangerous 
 
 two species, however, engender together, and the 
 produce is considered as the strongest and most valu- 
 able animal. According to their strength and size, 
 they can carry a burden of from six to twelve hun- 
 dred weight, and they can go, for an astonishing 
 length of time, without drink, which^ however, is 
 less the effect of habit than of conformation. They 
 are held in such estimation among the Arabians, that 
 they consider them as one of the noblest gifts of hea-' 
 yen, as a sacred animal, without which they could 
 neither travel, nor trade, nor even subsist. Their 
 milk is their ordinary diet, their flesh is nutritive and 
 tender ; their hair, which falls every year, is manu- 
 factured into a variety of stuffs ; and when they are 
 flying from an enemy, they can travel on them, in 
 one day, over fifty leagues of desart. See Buffon, vol. ii, 
 p. 211, quarto edit. 
 
 * The modern name of the celebrated amphi-* 
 theatre at Rome, which was built by Vespasian, 
 
 VOL. I, B B 
 
j$6 TRAVELS 
 
 of access, all solicitations would probably 
 have been urged in vain ; but, as there was 
 nothing curious to examine, there was no 
 ardour to repress, and I readily consented 
 to be governed by their admonitions. 
 
 The fatal consequences of this melan- 
 choly disorder have been severely felt, at 
 different periods, in various parts of the 
 globe ; but, in this unhappy country, its 
 return is uniformly expected with the 
 spring of the year; a season which, in 
 other regions, appears to have been de- 
 signed by Providence, to renew the bless- 
 ings of life, and to awaken the whole 
 creation to the enjoyments of gaiety and 
 health. Towards the middle of July it 
 generally begins to decline, and, from that 
 time, gradually dies aw^ay ; but in the fall 
 it commonly revives. • Its frequent revisi- 
 tations have been attributed to numerous 
 causes, and although much may no doubt 
 be ascribed to the nature of the climate, 
 still I am convinced, that if the habits of 
 thinking, and the mode of living, of the 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 187 
 
 people, were to undergo a reform, it would 
 neither be so rapid in its progress, nor so 
 violent in its attacks. They eat very little 
 animal food, nourishing themselves chiefly 
 vs^ith herbs, rank butter, and oil, which 
 debilitate and derange the stomach. In 
 their dress they are uncleanly, and change 
 their linen very seldom. They also make 
 frequent use of the warm bath, where they 
 remain for a great length of time, which 
 relaxes the nerves, opens the pores of the 
 skin, and keeps the body in an unnatural 
 state of perspiration. If, therefore, there 
 be any thing of a pernicious quality float- 
 ing in the air they will surely imbibe it ; 
 whilst it might have no effect on people 
 of a more hardy and robust constitution. 
 Add to all these reasons the errours of 
 opinion, and our surprise almost completely 
 disappears. 
 
 One of the grand tenets of Mahometan- 
 ism is predestination. A follower of that 
 absurd and misguided sect firmly believes, 
 that his destiny has been irrevocably fixed 
 from the commencement of the world. 
 
l88 TRAVELS 
 
 and that he cannot, by any effort either 
 of prudence or exertion, insure the smallest 
 alteration in the most trifling occurrence 
 of his life. He regards the past and the 
 future with the same stupid indifference. 
 He is neither solicitous to obtain happi- 
 ness, nor to avoid destruction ; but rushes 
 into danger with the same apathy with 
 which he smokes his pipe, or drinks his 
 coffee. 
 
 One morning, when I was going to pay 
 a visit to our consul, I found a number of 
 people assembled in the court-yard, who 
 begged that I would not advance any 
 nearer, as they were preparing to remove 
 one of the domestics who, the day before, 
 had been seized with the plague. Not 
 wishing to run any unnecessary risk, this 
 intimation was quite sufficient, and I con- 
 versed with those in the yard at a respect- 
 ful distance. Just as I was on the point 
 of taking my leave, a Turk happened to be 
 passing, whose curiosity was attracted by 
 this unusual concourse. He stopped, and, 
 asking the reason, was no sooner informed. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 1 89 
 
 than he went up to the patient, and ex- 
 amined every symptom with the greatest 
 coolness and attention. When he had 
 done, he said that it was a favourable case, 
 and that, in all probability, he would re- 
 cover in a few days. Notwithstanding 
 this prediction, the poor fellow died the 
 following morning. What became of the 
 Turk, I could never learn ; but it is most 
 likely, that he met with the same fate. 
 Thus it appears, that this disorder is pro- 
 hahly contracted by their manner of living, 
 and is certainly extended by their manner 
 of thinking, 
 
 It is regarded, by the faculty, as a fever 
 of a most malignant nature. The first 
 symptoms, which are in general mani- 
 fested, are frequent retchings, attended 
 with a violent head-ach. As the infection 
 spreads, fever, pains at the heart, difficulty 
 of respiration, anxiety of mind, and total 
 debility, are usual concomitants. Shortly 
 after, livid blotches and tumours break out 
 in different parts of the body, particularly 
 under the arms, in the glands of the neck. 
 
I go 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 and on the thighs ; and, in the course of 
 forty-eight hours, or three days, the patient 
 is generally carried off by a coagulation of 
 the blood, occasioned by its corrupted 
 state*. If he escape beyond that period, 
 hopes of his recovery may be entertained. 
 
 No infallible remedy, to allay the in- 
 veteracy, or to arrest the progress, of this 
 cruel scourge, has hitherto been disco- 
 vered ; and, as if it were inflicted to chas- 
 tise the unwarrantable folly and confidence 
 of man, applications, which one year have 
 been resorted to with success, have totally 
 failed the next. This spring, at the re- 
 commendation of Mr. Baldwin, a gentle- 
 man who was formerly the British consul 
 at Alexandria, several patients have derived 
 great benefit and relief, from being steeped 
 in oil, or rubbed with it, at short intervals. 
 
 But what principally induces me to 
 believe, that the ravages of this malady 
 are rather to be imputed to the habits and 
 
 * The exhalations from dead bodies are not in- 
 fectious. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. tgi 
 
 Opinions of the people, than to the effects 
 of the dimate, is a review of this country 
 in ancient times. 
 
 The famous plague of Athens, which 
 broke out in the second year of the Pelo- 
 ponnesian war, was, in many respects, 
 exactly similar in its nature and its conse- 
 quences ; but was then regarded as so 
 remarkable a disease, that every stage and 
 symptom are recorded by Thucydides* 
 with the most minute accuracy. We are 
 not to suppose, that the climate has, 
 since those days, undergone any material 
 alteration; for, at the same distance from 
 the equator, the operations of the sun, 
 on a cultivated country, must, in all ages, 
 be nearly alike. But when an epidemic 
 sickness, in the highest degree contagious, 
 has once been engrafted, and the people, 
 instead of striving to counteract and era- 
 dicate, adopt every method which can 
 strengthen and mature it, we are not to 
 be astonished if its consequences be violent. 
 
 * See Thucydides, lib. ii. 
 
ig2 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 The Turks are so dead to reflection, and 
 so totally regardless of the warnhigs of ex- 
 perience, that they even make no scruple 
 of wearing the apparel which the deceased 
 had on, at the time of his death. 
 
 Owing to the precautions which the 
 Franks take against this disorder, they are 
 rarely affected by it, which is an addi- 
 tional proof, that, with proper care and 
 attention, what depends on the climate 
 may be escaped. From the moment it 
 evidences itself, they are very particular, 
 respecting whom they admit into their 
 houses, and are at great pains to avoid 
 touching even the clothes of a stranger 
 in the streets ; it being more easily 
 caught from contact than from respiration. 
 When its consequences begin to be more 
 severely felt, they shut themselves up in 
 their houses ; all communication between 
 different families gradually ceases ; and, as 
 long as it continues to rage, no person is 
 suffered to enter, or to quit, their premises. 
 Whilst this imprisonment lasts, a man calls 
 every morning to know what provisions 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. jg^ 
 
 the family requires, which he purchases at 
 the market, and, on his return, lets them 
 fall into a pail of water, placed within the 
 outer gate, for the purpose of receiving 
 them, where they remain soaking a suffici- 
 ent time to purify them from all possible 
 infection. Every paper which is taken 
 in, is first carefully fumigated, and even 
 money is washed in vinegar, before it is 
 handled. 
 
 The Christian subjects of the empire 
 have hospitals, established in the large 
 towns, for the reception of patients af- 
 flicted with this disease ; and the persons 
 who attend them have generally had what, 
 on account of its extreme virulence, is 
 termed the mother plague. The few who 
 recover, after having been afflicted with 
 this excess of the disease, are seldom liable 
 to it a second time. There are, however, 
 now and then, instances to the contrary, 
 which are a suflicient answer to the specu- 
 lation of those who conceive, that much 
 benefit might result from the practice of 
 
 VOL. I. CO 
 
194 TRAVELS 
 
 inoculation*. Not many years back two' 
 Russian doctors were sent, by the empress, 
 to Smyrna, to make their observations on 
 the nature and effects of the plague. They 
 were so confident of their skill, that, when 
 they visited the Greek hospital, in spite of 
 the remonstrances of their friends, they 
 disdained to use any preventive against 
 infection. The consequence was, they 
 both caught the disorder, and died of it 
 in the course of a few days. 
 
 Several pleasant villages surround Smyr- 
 na, at the distance of from six to twelve 
 miles, where the Franks have their country 
 seats, and principally reside during the 
 summer months. Those most resorted to 
 
 * Of all the discoveries which have contributed tO' 
 the preservation, and the beauty, of the human species, 
 that relating to the cow-pox, for which we are in- 
 debted to the researches and philanthropy of Dr. 
 Jenner, is indisputably the most important. As long 
 as the world endures, mankind will feel the benefit of 
 this fortunate discovery, and the final eradication of one 
 of the most fatal and cruel diseases incidental to our 
 nature may be now looked forward to as no very 
 remote event. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. I95 
 
 are, Sedequl, Bournabat, and Bugia, of 
 which Bournabat is the largest ; but Sede- 
 qui possesses the most agreeable situation. 
 
 Teo3, the birth-place of Anacreon, for- 
 merly a flourishing colony, but now a desert- 
 ed village, known under the barbarous name 
 of Bodrum, lies on the sea-shore, on the 
 south side of a peninsula opposite Smyrna, 
 The magnificent temple of Bacchus, once 
 the theme of an immortal bard, and the 
 object of veneration of an enlightened 
 people, has long since perished. 
 
 At Bournabat, which 1 frequently visit, 
 there is an excellent inn, kept by a Vene- 
 tian, with a billiard-room belonging to it, 
 which is much frequented by the Franks 
 in the neighbourhood. I generally go to 
 this village half way by water, and, on 
 S!;etting out of the boat, mount an ass, 
 which conducts me to Mr. Perkins's door. 
 These animals are rather inconvenient, 
 and are sometimes difficult to manage, 
 in the first place, from their innate stub- 
 bornness, and in the next, from the breadth 
 of the Turkish saddles, and the shortness 
 
196 TRAVELS 
 
 of the Stirrups, which arc nearly of the same 
 size and shape as an Enghsh fire-shovel. 
 The Turks never wear spurs, but, wiicn 
 they want to go faster, goad the beast that 
 carries them with one of the angles of these 
 misshapen instruments. 
 
 To those who arc fond of the water, 
 nothing can be pleasanter than sailing 
 about the bay, which is surrounded by the 
 most delightful scenery. The boats, that 
 ply for hire, are kept very clean, and some 
 of them are even handsomely decorated. 
 They are shallow, of a long narrow shape, 
 and carry a great deal of sail, so that they 
 cut through the water with rapidity, and 
 require much dexterity in their manage- 
 ment. The boatmen are, in general, 
 muscular men, and smoke their pipes all 
 the time they are rowing; but they are, by 
 no means, so chatty as the watermen be- 
 longing to the Thames. They pay, how- 
 ever, more attention to their dress, and 
 many of them are gaily clothed in party- 
 coloured turbans and embroidered vests. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 ^97 
 
 Provisions at Smyrna are plentiful and 
 cheap, and the Franks keep excellent 
 tables, which are served up after the 
 French method of cooking. The markets 
 are tolerably well supplied with butcher's 
 meat ; and fish, poultry, game, fruit, and 
 vegetables, are in great abundance. The 
 fishery in the bay is so productive, that, 
 after satisfying the wants of the city, a 
 considerable surplus is salted down for 
 exportation. Red mullets and tunnies 
 are caught in high perfection, and oysters, 
 in the season, are brought from Constan- 
 tinople. 
 
 The climate is remarkably fine. In 
 the v/inter, indeed, rain and even snow 
 are not uncommon ; but, during the spring 
 and summer, the sky is so clear and serene 
 that a cloud is an unusual sight. It has, 
 however, its disadvantages. Storms and 
 earthquakes often occur, and, from the 
 middle of June till the latter end of De- 
 cember, the heat is dreadful, the therm.o- 
 meter, in the day-time, frequently rising 
 
198 TKAVEL& 
 
 as hliz;h as one hundred and four*. A 
 refreshing sea-breeze, called the inbat, 
 sometimes springs up towards the evening ; 
 but when the wind blows from the north, 
 it is almost insupportable, and the slight- 
 est motion becomes a toil. This wind, 
 in its passage, crosses vast deserts of sand, 
 which, being easily penetrated by the rays 
 of the sun, are rendered as hot as a fur- 
 nace, and it is of such a parching suffo- 
 cating nature, that 1 have heard it com- 
 pared to a current of flame. When the 
 inhabitants perceive it coming, to keep 
 their houses as cool as possible, they shut 
 up all their windows ; and, to avoid the 
 most oppressive part of the day, it is cus- 
 tomary to He down on sofas, after dinner, 
 and pass an hour or two in sleep. 
 
 The face of the country is romantic 
 and beautiful, consisting chiefly of high 
 mountains f, deep vallics and extensive 
 
 * Fahrenheit's scale. 
 
 t vSome of the mountahis are, towards the sum-r 
 iiiitj quite barren, and even destitute of all verdure,. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. I99 
 
 plains, which form an interesting and 
 agreeable contrast. Nothing can be more 
 animated and gay than its appearance in 
 the spring ; but, as the summer advances, 
 the vertical rays of the sun burn up the 
 pasturages, and completely destroy all their 
 verdure. The soil is luxuriant, and olives, 
 melons, oranges, figs, and vines*, are 
 cultivated with little trouble ; whilst 
 myrtle, eglantine, jessamy, and various 
 aromatic herbs, spring up spontaneously, 
 and perfume the air. It is, however, an 
 observation which generally holds good, 
 that in climes where Nature has been 
 less bountiful, the invention and ingenuity 
 of the human mind will more than restore 
 the level. In warm countries, the same 
 sun which renders the earth prolific, and 
 
 In the winter they are frequently covered with snow, 
 which the mountaineers, by digging caverns for it, 
 preserve during the summer months. 
 
 * Besides the fruits I have already enumerated, 
 apples, pears, peaches, pomegranates, and various 
 kinds of nuts, are plentiful. 
 
2,00 TRAVELS 
 
 calls forth its fruits, so enervates the inha- 
 bitants, and paralyses bodily exertion, that 
 they seldom are endowed with a sufficient 
 degree of activity, to enable them to avail 
 themselves of their natural superiority : 
 •whereas, under a more temperate zone, 
 agriculture and botany, engrossing the 
 attention and skill of mankind, generally 
 attain to a high degree of perfection ; and 
 thus, the defects of nature arc remedied 
 and supplied by the ingenuity and perse- 
 verance of art. 
 
 Notwithstanding the clumsy and inat- 
 tentive modes of agriculture which arc 
 adopted by the farmers, such is the un- 
 assisted fertility of the soil, that the land 
 yields very good grain, several cargoes of 
 which are every year exported from Smyrna. 
 The olive trees, which are in great abun- 
 dance, produce an excellent oil ; but the 
 Turks are unacquainted with the proper 
 method of extracting and clarifying it, 
 and consume the fruit in its natural 
 state. 
 
 The figs arc esteemed the finest in 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. ^QI 
 
 the world, both for their flavour and size, 
 and, with the raisins, form a considerable 
 branch of the commerce of the country. 
 During the gathering season, all the raga- 
 muffins in the city are collected in the 
 court-yards, belonging to the different 
 merchants' houses, where they prepare and 
 pack them for exportation, exhibiting a 
 most motly and fantastic scene. A singu- 
 lar regulation, respecting fruit in general, 
 is applied to the English, who are only 
 allowed to import one cargo annually, 
 which is out of compliment to the king, 
 and understood to be for his table. The 
 Turks, however, have too great a regard 
 for their own interests to confine us to the 
 letter of this law. 
 
 There is such an abundance of game, 
 and so little danger of its ever being ex- 
 tirpated, that it precludes the necessity 
 of laws, to secure the pleasures of the 
 sportsman to the rich. I could wish, that 
 this were the case in England, or, at least, 
 that that part of our penal code, which 
 relates to sporting, were revised, and so 
 
 VOL. I. D D 
 
502 TRAVELS 
 
 modified and explained, as to remove those 
 strong and palpable objections, which the 
 bare perusal of it at present creates. Par- 
 tridges, quails, woodcocks, snipes, wild 
 ducks, teals, thrushes, beccafigs, hares, 
 and rabbits, are astonishingly plentiful. 
 The hares are remarkable for their size, 
 and the beccafigs afford excellent sport to 
 the gunner. They keep fluttering about 
 a tree bearing a red berry, which they 
 peck at without settling. They are very 
 shy if they see any body, but are not 
 much alarmed at the report of a gun, gene- 
 rally returning, in the course of a few 
 minutes, to the same spot. The sports- 
 man, therefore, contrives to conceal him- 
 self behind some bush, where he loads his 
 piece at his leisure, and, when he is tired 
 of the amusement, he quits his retreat, and 
 picks up what he has killed. The beccafig 
 is a delicious little bird, and reckoned, by 
 many, equal in flavour to the ortolan, 
 which is held in such high estimation by 
 the susceptible palates of epicures. Wild 
 boars are also to be met with on the 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 5O3 
 
 mountains. These the mountaineers hunt 
 with dogs, or ensnare with nets; but, in 
 consequence of the danger attendant on 
 the pursuit, their flesh fetches a high price. 
 The cattle is small ; but the horses are 
 strong, swift-footed, and full of spirit. This 
 I can speak to ; for the very first time I 
 mounted one, although he was advanced in 
 years, he ran away with me for several 
 miles. The Turks, to have a better com- 
 mand over them, ride them with a par- 
 ticular kind of bit, which is so constructed 
 that, the moment they pull the reins, it 
 gags them, and obliges them, even in their 
 most rapid movements, to halt on the 
 spot. Although they are passionately fond 
 of their horses, and frequently purchase 
 them at a great expence, they take, by no 
 means, the pains, in clothing and dressing 
 them, that we do in England; and, instead 
 of stuffing them four or five times a day 
 with oats, they nourish them principally 
 with the simple aliment of chopped straw. 
 In this respect they are certainly more 
 reasonable than ourselves. Their coats, to 
 
204 TRAVELS 
 
 be sure, arc not quite so sleek, but they 
 escape a variety of complaints occasioned 
 by the rich food with which they are 
 pampered in England. Few cows are 
 bred near Smyrna, and the milk, which 
 the Franks chiefly use with their cof- 
 fee and tea, is that of sheep or goats. 
 The flesh of the buffalo, which is coarse 
 and tough, supplies the place of beef, but 
 the mutton is excellent. The sheep are 
 also remarkable for their fat bushy tails, 
 which sometimes weigh upwards of three 
 pounds, and furnish a dish highly relished 
 by the Turks. 
 
 In the inland country, there are several 
 copper mines, which yield a remarkably 
 pure ore ; but these valuable treasures are 
 much neglected, and the exportation of 
 the metal is prohibited. The miners, 
 nevertheless, contrive to smuggle it, in 
 small quantities, on board the vessels in the 
 harbour, during the night ; and some of it 
 has, at times, found its way into England, 
 and, on account of its quality and cheap- 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 505 
 
 ness, created some alarm among the pro- 
 prietors of our Cornish mines. 
 
 I lament exceedingly that the plague has 
 obliged me to relinquish the plan of visit- 
 ing Ephcsus, where the remains of that 
 celebrated temple ••'• are to be seen, which 
 was enriched by the contributions of 
 monarchs, which was decorated by the 
 pencil of Apelles and Parrhasius, and the 
 chisel of Praxiteles, and which was so much 
 the admiration of mankind, that it was 
 reckoned, by the ancients, among the 
 wonders of the world. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
 * This magnificent temple was twice built. The 
 first was ihe one which was fired by Erostratus, on 
 the night of the birth of Alexanck-r. The second 
 still existed in the times of Strabo and Pliny, and is 
 frequently mentioned by those two authors. It was 
 finally burnt by the Goihs in their third naval inva- 
 sion^. The present remains of it, I am informed, 
 ^re very trilling. 
 
 ' See GibboHj vol. i. p. 4 33* 
 
\66 TRAVELS 
 
 LETTER Xir. 
 
 Constantinople, May 4, I'ffZ, 
 
 After changing our opinions 
 about a dozen times, respecting the most 
 ehgible method of conveyance to Con- 
 stantinople, vft at last resolved to go by 
 land. Fully apprized of the numerous 
 hardships and inconveniences, which must 
 necessarily attend a long journey through 
 a barbarous country, yet formidable as they 
 were, we chose rather to encounter them, 
 than to submit to the gross imposition of 
 a Neapolitan captain* (whose vessel was 
 the only one bound for Constantinople), 
 
 * lliis fellow had heard, that we were determhicd 
 to go to Constantinople by water, and, as we were 
 Englishmen, he thought he might exact from us any 
 sum of money he chose to demand. His avarice, 
 however, lost him the fair price of our passage. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 207 
 
 and to run the risk of being confined seve- 
 ral days in a filthy cabin. 
 
 Having made every requisite prepa- 
 ration, we left Smyrna on the 35th of 
 April. 
 
 Notwithstanding such weighty motives 
 as a plague, whose devastations were in- 
 creasing daily, and (what I dreaded fully 
 as much) the approaching heat*, hastened 
 my departure, I can assure you it was taken 
 with regret, for I received kindness and 
 hospitality from every person to whom I 
 was introduced, and the family with 
 whom I was staying, heaped upon me every 
 mark of civility and attention which ur- 
 banity could suggest, or friendship confer. 
 But to be obliged to quit a place, in 
 which one is just beginning to form 
 agreeable connexions, is a mortification 
 to which travellers must be frequently- 
 exposed, and, indeed, is one of the great 
 
 * In addition to the plague and the excessive 
 heats, this part of Turkey is subject to frequent earth- 
 quakes. That which happened in the year 1688^ 
 overthrew a great part of the city. 
 
5oS TRAVELS 
 
 drawbacks on the pleasures of a desultory 
 life. 
 
 The society of Smyrna is on a most 
 friendly footing, and, although composed 
 of individuals from almost every part of 
 Europe, that jealousy of character, which 
 opposite views and interests so generally 
 inspire, is not to be discovered. In com- 
 mercial transactions, it may perhaps exist ; 
 but they have too much good sense to 
 allow it to interrupt, or diminish, the plea- 
 sures of social intercourse. They have fre- 
 quent entertainments at each other's houses, 
 and there is a place of general resort for 
 gentlemen, called the Casino, which is 
 open every evening, and where a few hourj 
 may be always agreeably passed away. It 
 consists of several rooms, one of which is 
 allotted for cards, and another for politics, 
 which is well provided with journals and 
 newspapers from different parts of the 
 dobe. Coffee and other refreshments are, 
 from time to time, handed round, and 
 every thing is conducted with the greatest 
 propriety. This establishment is supported 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. ZOg 
 
 by subscription, and strangers, when intro- 
 duced by any member, are complimented 
 with a free admission. But to return from 
 this digression. 
 
 As the mode of travelUng in this coun- 
 try is rather curious in itself, and totally 
 different from that which is adopted in 
 Europe, a concise description of it may not 
 prove unentertaining. 
 
 If it were possible to procure carriages, 
 the badness and narrowness of the roads 
 would render \hem useless. About this 
 convenience there was therefore no room 
 for choice, and we had no alternative 
 (unless we preferred walking) but to 
 mount some worn-out steeds, and per- 
 form our journey on horseback. Mr. 
 Robinson, an English gentleman, and an old 
 schoolfellow, accompanied us, and Mr. 
 Perkins was kind enough to send with us 
 one of his brokers, who, speaking Italian, 
 served as our interpreter. We had also, 
 for our security, a janizary and two other 
 men, who, with two drivers, and three 
 horses for our baggage, formed a respectable 
 
 VOL. I. E E 
 
2 10 TRAVELS 
 
 cavalcade. We carried our beds and a 
 case of provisions with us, with knives and 
 forks and various cuUnary utensils; and, as 
 v,c had no inclination to take shelter in 
 any of the miserable coffee-houses on the 
 road, which are seldom any thing more 
 than sheds supported by four stakes, we 
 likewise purchased a tent. These pre- 
 cautions may appear to you (who have 
 been accustomed all your life to the ad- 
 mirable conveniences of England) extraor- 
 dinary ; but in this quarter of the globe 
 they are absolutely necessary, and, by the 
 omission of either, wc should have been 
 exposed to the risk of a violent cold, the 
 plague, or famine. 
 
 As the same horses w^ere destined to 
 convey us as far as Maarlitch (horses too, 
 which, from their appearance, had never 
 known the flavour of oats) it was necessary 
 to go a foot's pace the whole way : and, 
 setting off rather late, we did not make 
 much progress the first day. 
 
 About six o'clock in the evening we 
 pitched our tent near a village called 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 5H 
 
 Yakal, where, to our astonishment, we 
 heard there had been no plague. Though 
 an inconsiderable place, its situation, which 
 is beautifully romantic, renders it worthy 
 of notice. It stands on a gentle eminence, 
 and on the right, at the distance of about 
 half a mile, there is an enchanting wood, 
 which is intersected and refreshed by seve^ 
 ral limpid rivulets, whose placid murmurs 
 did not ill accord with the melodious 
 notes of the nightingale, which chanted 
 unmolested her evening song. On the 
 banks of one of these rivulets, listening 
 to such sweet music, I could, with plea* 
 sure, have remained, for the moon shone 
 with all her splendour, and the wea- 
 ther was beautifully serene ; but, as we 
 purposed rising early in the morning, that 
 we might the better endure the fatigues of 
 the next day's journey, we soon returned 
 to our tent, arranged our beds, and, with- 
 out undressing ourselves, lay down about 
 eight o'clock. We might, however as 
 well have loitered in the wood, for v, e 
 
:JI5 TRAVELS 
 
 were so tormented with fleas, and so fre- 
 quently disturbed with the neighing of 
 our own horses, and the barking of the 
 village dogs, that, in spite of our prepa- 
 rations, all attempts to sleep were vain. 
 
 From prudential motives we did not 
 admit the janizary, or any of our attend- 
 ants, except Mecherdith (the broker whom 
 Mr. Perkins had sent with us), within our 
 tent. They, poor fellows ! reposed near 
 us, on the outside. They did not, how- 
 ever, neglect themselves ; for, during our 
 absence in the wood, they kindled a brisk 
 fire, round which, on our return, we found 
 them seated, and, whilst they were smoak- 
 ing their pipes, and drinking their coffee, 
 they chatted over the adventures of the 
 day. The fumes of the wood, which dis- 
 couraged us from enlarging their circle, 
 they paid no regard to ; and it was not till 
 towards midnight, that they were tired of 
 conversation, and felt themselves inclined 
 to sleep. They then muffled up their 
 heads, spread a substantial bear-skin under 
 them, and lay down. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 513 
 
 We rose about three in the morning, 
 and, as soon as we had arranged our bag- 
 gage, and refreshed ourselves with a cup 
 of coffee, recommenced our journey : a 
 plan which proved very convenient, and 
 which we steadily adhered to in the sequel. 
 It is, indeed, necessary in these hot cli- 
 mates to take advantage of the freshness of 
 the morning air, for, towards mid- day, the 
 heat of the sun is almost intolerable, and, 
 unless accustomed to it from very early life, 
 is not encountered without considerable 
 danger. 
 
 We found the road over Mount Sipy- 
 lus dreadfully bad, and, in many places, 
 so rugged and steep, that it was with dif- 
 ficulty our horses kept their feet. This 
 inconvenience was, however, in great 
 measure, compensated by the elegance and 
 romantic wildness of the views, which 
 were continually engaging our attention. 
 At the foot of this mountain, on a beau- 
 tiful and extensive plain, watered by the 
 river Hermus, stands Magnesia, which we 
 passed through about mid- day. After the 
 
514 TRAVELS 
 
 capture of Constantinople by the count of 
 Flanders, John Ducas, the Greek emperor, 
 transferred hither the seat of his empire, 
 and reigned here upwards of thirty years. 
 It was also once the residence of the grand 
 seignor*, and, although it has dwindled 
 from its former magnificence and impor- 
 tance, is still a large, populous, and 
 flourishing city. It is surrounded by a 
 wall which is in tolerable repair, and, on 
 an eminence to the south, are the ruins of 
 a once formidable castle. This town is 
 remarkable for containing an hospital for 
 lunatics, which, I believe, is almost the 
 only institution of the kind in the empire -j-. 
 
 * Amurat II. and several of his successors, resided 
 in this city. It suffered very much when it was 
 pillaged by Tamerlane after the famous battle of 
 Angora. 
 
 t This dreadful malady is not indeed so frequent 
 among the Turks as in the civilized parts of Europe, 
 which I imagine may, in great measure, be attributed 
 to the inertness and indifference of their minds. 
 They also regard it with very opposite sensations, 
 considering it as an indication of the favour of hea- 
 ven. No attempts are consequently made to relieve 
 the patients by medical assistance. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 215 
 
 The inhabitants are industrious, and are 
 chiefly supported by the manufacture 
 of cotton yarn, which they carry on 
 to a considerable extent. In ancient 
 history, it is famous for being the spot 
 near which Agesilaus and Tissaphernes, 
 with their numerous armies, contended 
 for the sovereignty of Asia *, and where 
 Antiochus the Great, after an obstinate 
 and bloody battle, was defeated by the 
 Romans f . It is, indeed, surrounded with 
 classic ground, which has been celebrated 
 by the poet as well as the historian. But 
 it has miserably declined from its ancient 
 prosperity. Sardis, Pergamus, Ephesus, 
 and many other places, once so conspicu- 
 ous for wealth and population, are now 
 reduced to villages, vvhere science is un- 
 cultivated, and civilization unknown. 
 
 We stopped, about one o'clock, in a 
 field to dine, and, when we were ready 
 to remount our horses, one of the drivers, 
 
 * See Xenophon. de reg. Agisl. 
 t SeeLivy, lib.xxxvii. 
 
2i6 TRAVELS 
 
 who was an obstreperous fellow, refused 
 to proceed. He said, that he had no idea 
 of loading and unloading two or three 
 times a day, and we were obliged to 
 threaten him with chastisement, before 
 we could bring him to reason. This 
 point being settled, we resumed our jour- 
 ney, and rode, for several hours, through 
 a barren uncultivated country. When 
 -we were inclined to pitch our tent, we 
 searched in vain for an eligible situation. 
 The sun had already sunk below the ho- 
 rizon ; distant objects were fading fast 
 from the view; and, at length, the ani- 
 mated face of nature was shrouded by the 
 awful gloom of night. We were in a 
 strange and barbarous country, and, from 
 the obscurity which prevailed, uncertain 
 of our road. We, however, pursued the 
 track we were in, till wc at last discovered 
 a light, whose rays glimmered faintly 
 through the trees. A sudden exhilaration 
 of spirits glowed within us at the sight, 
 and, keeping our eyes stedfastly fixed on 
 this friendly beacon, we pressed forward. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 217 
 
 with all possible diligence, till we found 
 ourselves at the entrance of a village, called 
 Palamont. We here expected to meet 
 with relief, but our hopes were com- 
 pletely disappointed, and we applied for 
 it in vain. Finding the inhabitants thus 
 obstinately resolute in refusing us all ac- 
 commodation or assistance, we reluctantly 
 returned to a field, which vvx had noticed, 
 about an hundred yards from the entrance 
 of this inhospitable place. In many parts, 
 it was an absolute marsh, and thousands of 
 frogs, that were croaking their discordant 
 notes, assailed our ears. The noise which 
 they made was dreadful, and I was wish- 
 ing for an army of Frenchmen to demolish 
 these execrable musicians. On this com- 
 fortless spot, exposed to the dampness of 
 the ground, and moreover to a piercing 
 north wind, we w^re obliged to wait, 
 above two hours, for the arrival of our 
 baggage, from which we had imprudently 
 separated. We at one time were begin- 
 ing to imagine that our attendants had 
 purposely taken a different road, and were 
 
 VOL. I. F F 
 
:jl8 TRAVELS 
 
 not a little pleased when their appearance 
 released us from the apprehension of this 
 additional misfortune. 
 
 On the 27th, in the morning, we had 
 a fine view of Kircagatch ; but on account 
 of the plague, which was raging there with 
 uncommon violence, we were fearful of 
 passing through it. It is delightfully situ- 
 ated on the declivity of a hill, and covers 
 a great extent of ground. A noble plain 
 stretches out before it, and the surround- 
 ing lands are in a high state of cultivation. 
 They furnish, indeed, the principal part of 
 the cotton, which is exported from Smyrna. 
 They also produce a considerable quantity 
 of grain, and the neighbouring pasturages 
 afford nourishment to numerous flocks of 
 sheep. Scarcely any oxen are to be seen ; 
 and the buffalo, an animal unknown with 
 us, and one of the most hideous productions 
 of nature, is trained to the yoke, and 
 supplies their place. Kircagatch, but a 
 few years ago, w as an insignificant village : 
 the rapid increase of its trade has raised it 
 to its present importance. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 219 
 
 Cotton has, withm the last twenty 
 years, been assiduously cultivated, and is 
 now become an article of such extensive 
 commerce, that it is one of the principal 
 sources of the riches of the country. Be- 
 sides Kircagatch, it is grown in the vicinity 
 of several places, within a few days journey 
 of Smyrna, viz. Cassaba, Kinich, Byandira, 
 and Subugia. The Subugia is the finest 
 in quality, but it is produced in small 
 quantities ; and the Kircagatch and Cassaba 
 are the kinds which are chiefly imported 
 by our merchants. The cotton is an an- 
 nual plant, raised in ploughed lands from 
 seed, and, when ripe, is cut down like our 
 corn. It is low and slender, like a reed, 
 and, at the extremity, throws out a bud, 
 which, by degrees, swells to the size of a 
 walnut, and exhibits, w'hen it bursts, a 
 most beautiful appearance. The pod con- 
 tains both the cotton and the seed, which 
 obliges the proprietors, before it is brought 
 to market, to make use of a machine to 
 separate the one from the other, which, 
 according to its size and powers, is worked 
 
ZZO TRAVELS 
 
 by the hand or by horses, and is formed 
 on the Ibllovving construction. It is in 
 the shape cf a barrel, with sides of thin 
 iron, or wooden bars, placed almost close 
 together, and in the centre there is a large 
 roller, so contrived, that, as it turns, it 
 presses the cotton against the bars, and 
 forces it through the intervals, which are 
 not sufficiently wide to admit the passage 
 of the seed. 
 
 " In* every town, and almost in every 
 *' village, in Turkey, an officer, called 
 *' an aga, is appointed, who, in places of 
 *' consequence, lives like a petty prince. 
 " He levies soldiers, maintains a consider- 
 '^ able guard, administers justice in his 
 *•' district, and is even invested with the 
 *' prerogative of inflicting death. At 
 *' Kircagatch, there is, at present, a very 
 " powerful aga, called Carra Osman Og- 
 " lau, who is so immensely rich, that he 
 " can, if the occasion require, raise an 
 
 * This account is extracted from a letter \\hleh 
 I received from my brother, a few months before I 
 left Endand. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 521 
 
 army of twenty thousand men. He is, 
 at the same time, very popular in the 
 neighbourhood, and even at Smyrna, 
 w^here he w^as formerly governor, and 
 where the people passionately desire to 
 have him again at their head. But in 
 this country the inclinations of the 
 people are never consulted ; and the 
 government does not seem disposed to 
 confer that honour on him a second 
 time. He has frequently received or- 
 ders to join the army, and, to entice 
 him from Kircagatch, has been offered 
 the dignity of pacha, which he has 
 prudently declined: for, were he once 
 to put himself in the power of his ene- 
 mies, his head would be immediately 
 taken off, and his effects confiscated ; so 
 jealous is the Porte of his authority and 
 influence, and so desirous of getting 
 possession of his wealth. His father, 
 who held the same employment, was 
 entrapped by similar artifices, which has 
 taught a lesson of caution to the son. 
 He has consequently never obeyed the 
 
Z2Z TRAVELS 
 
 *' summons, but has hitherto contrived to 
 *•' evade it, by sacrificing considerable sums 
 " of money, and sending a body of troops 
 *' in his stead. His income arises from 
 " the cotton grounds about Kircagatch, 
 '•' of which he is almost the sole proprie- 
 *' tor; and he maintains such rigid dis- 
 *^ cipline and justice, within the limits of 
 " his jurisdiction, that a robbery is 
 " scarcely ever heard of. When, how- 
 *• ever, any offence of this nature is com- 
 " mitted, he orders the sufferer into his 
 '^ presence, and, on being made acquainted 
 " with the loss he has sustained, repays it 
 *' to him out of his treasury. He then, 
 ^' without loss of time, dispatches his 
 *• officers after the delinquent, who, such 
 ^' is their expertness and activity, sel- 
 ^' dom allow him to escape. In conse- 
 " quence of these wholesome, severe, and 
 *' munificent regulations, such a reliance 
 '* is placed on his wisdom and justice, that 
 " thousands of dollars are transported from 
 '' place to place, on the backs of mules. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 22^ 
 
 " attended only by one man, almost with- 
 " out risk*." 
 
 We had been near thirteen hours on 
 horseback, and were quite exhausted with 
 the tedious length of our day's journey, 
 when the evening set in. But we sought 
 in vain for a comfortable spot to pitch 
 our tent, and kept wandering on, still 
 amused by hope, till we reached the con- 
 fines of a dreary wood, which we were 
 fearful of penetrating, and very glad to 
 leave in the morning, having heard that it 
 was infested with robbers. 
 
 On the 2;Sth, a little after sun-rise, we 
 met a Turk, who was travelling with his 
 wife and a few attendants. The lady was 
 seated in a kind of box, fastened to the 
 back of her horse, and unveiled, which 
 was rather a singular sight, as the women, 
 even of the poorest Turks, are generally 
 obliged to conceal their faces from the 
 intrusive eyes of strangers. They ap- 
 
 * This aga is since dead, and his son has made 
 his peace, fi^r the present, with the Porte, by sending 
 to Constantinople an immense sum of money. 
 
224 TRAVELS 
 
 peared to be very much astonished at see- 
 ing us, and the Turk, I thought, betrayed 
 evident marks of dissatisfaction and jea- 
 lousy at the notice we took of his wife. 
 We were not, however, to be discouraged, 
 by the sternness of his countenance, from 
 looking at a pretty woman, nor did she 
 express any of the resentment of her hus- 
 band at the marked distinction we paid 
 her. The admiration, indeed, to which 
 beauty has a claim, is so universally acknow- 
 ledged and bestowed, that it rarely creates, 
 in a female breast, either misconception 
 or surprise. 
 
 After this adventure, we proceeded till 
 we came to a village called Geulgouck, 
 where, for the first time, we ventured into 
 a Turkish coffee-house, and had the good 
 fortune to find some excellent kimac *, 
 a preparation of cream which is much 
 
 * Yahout and pllow are also two favourite dishes 
 m Turkey. The first is milk turned with runnet. 
 It is very sour to the taste, but the Turks prefer it 
 without sugar. The second is made of rice, and is a 
 dish which is common in most eastern countries. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 525 
 
 relished in this country, and a good deal 
 resembles the clotted cream of Devon- 
 shire. 
 
 Though these places are dignified with 
 the name of coffee-houses, they are, in 
 general, nothing more than miserable huts, 
 intended to afford a temporary refuge to 
 the weary traveller. They have a roof 
 composed of twigs and mud ; but are left 
 open in front, and are so scanty of pro- 
 visions, that, very frequently, they afford 
 not a mouthful of bread to allay the crav- 
 ings of an empty stomach. I could not 
 help remarking the low cunning of a Turk, 
 whom curiosity, or probably some less 
 laudable motive, had induced to scat him- 
 self near us. Whilst we were eating our 
 kimac, after talking with us for a short 
 time, and making offers of his services, 
 thinking, I suppose, that he had either 
 diverted our attention, or secured our con- 
 fidence, he stretched out his hand over our 
 sugar, and, in returning it, slyly took a 
 large lump, which he slipped into his 
 pocket. He thought he was not observed, 
 
 VOL. I. G G 
 
226 TRAVELS 
 
 and I make no doubt applauded his address. 
 At some future period he may possibly be 
 differently rewarded. 
 
 The houses of the Turkish villages have 
 a wretched appearance, which you may 
 easily imagine, when I inform you, that 
 the chief materials of which they are built, 
 are mud and twigs. The roofs arc flat, 
 and there is never more than a ground 
 floor, which is not always divided into 
 separate apartments. A numerous family 
 is frequently crowded into one small room, 
 which is badly ventilated, and has more 
 the appearance of a dungeon than a dwell- 
 ing-house. The filth and stench of these 
 places are inconceiveable, and prove how 
 entirely man is the creature of habit. To 
 us such habitations would be intolerable ; 
 and we cannot help feeling for the degra- 
 dation of mankind, when we are witnesses 
 of scenes of such squalid misery. The 
 elegancies of life do not make us happier ; 
 many of its conveniencies may be cheer- 
 fully dispensed with ; but there are com- 
 forts which we absolutely require, and 
 
THROUGH TURlCEY. !2,zy 
 
 •which seem to be interwoven with the 
 very existence of rational enjoyment. 
 
 The country about Geulgouck is moun- 
 tainous and barren, and the roads are 
 infamously bad. This, however, in Turkey, 
 is not a matter of surprise, for there are no 
 public regulations to keep them in repair, 
 and their state is entirely dependent on the 
 surface and nature of the soil. Here and 
 there, indeed, one meets with a few yards 
 of pavement, which have been laid down 
 at the desire of some individual, who, 
 because he has frequented the road during 
 his life, has, at his death, bequeathed a sum 
 of money for that specific purpose. But, 
 when his order has been once complied 
 with, his heirs give themselves no further 
 concern about it, and these patches, never 
 being mended, in the course of a few years, 
 are quite broken up, and, instead of being 
 serviceable, are detrimental to the high- 
 ways. 
 
 We passed this night in a field, a few 
 hundred paces from Mendahoura, a vil- 
 
5:38 TRAVELS 
 
 lae^e which is remarkable for the number 
 of storks, that build their nests on the 
 tops of the houses. In other places, I had 
 observed z. nest here and there ; but in this, 
 there was scarcely a habitation without 
 one ; so that it absolutely seemed as if it 
 formed a necessary part of the roof. The 
 great tameness of these birds is to be prin- 
 cipally ascribed to the veneration in which 
 they are holden by the Turks *, who, in a 
 
 * These birds were holden in the same respect by 
 the ancient Greeks and Romans, who attributed to 
 them the moral virtues of temperance, conjugal 
 fidelity, and filial and parental piety. Modern natu- 
 ralists have, in some measure, confirmed this hypo- 
 thesis ; and it requires but little observation to be 
 convinced, that the care and tenderness which 
 are shewn by the parents towards their young, 
 during their helpless state, are repaid, with addi- 
 tional affection, when they arc labouring under the 
 infirmities of age. They regularly migrate in the 
 fall of the year, and are supposed to visit Egypt. 
 Before they leave a country, they all assemble, fur 
 several days together, on some plain in the neigh- 
 bourhood, as if to consult on the measures necessary 
 for their journey. A northern wind is the signal of 
 their departure, which is taken indifferently by night 
 
THROUGH TURKEY, 539 
 
 iiianner, regard them as their tutelar dei- 
 ties. They believe that they make an 
 annual visit to their prophet's tomb at 
 Medina, and imagine that those houses, on 
 which they construct their nests, will be 
 exempted, for the year, from the ravages 
 of the plague and fire. They consequently 
 never allow any of them to be destroyed ; 
 but, on the contrary, encourage their 
 propagation with zealous devotion. As 
 we were w^alking about the village, we 
 noticed, round one of these nests, an assem- 
 blage of between twenty and thirty hawks, 
 which were w^atching a stork very nar- 
 rowly. We did not stop to discover their 
 motive ; but, as she w'as covering her nest, 
 we conjectured that she was hatching her 
 eggs, and that these voracious animals were 
 
 or day, when they mount the air with surprising 
 velocity, and, in a few seconds, totally disappear. 
 On their return, in the spring, they uniformly repair 
 to their old abodes, giving evident marks of joy en 
 their arrival, and, if their nest has been destroyed, 
 they immediately set about rebuilding it. — See Buf- 
 fon's interesting account of this bird, vol. xxii. p. 253. 
 4to. edit. 
 
2S0 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 waiting for an opportunity of carrying off 
 the young ones. 
 
 On the morning of the 39th, we passed 
 through a rich and beautiful valley, which 
 terminated in a small wood, where, like 
 Arcadian shepherds, we made an excellent 
 repast, under the shade of one of the 
 largest trees. My mind was quite alive 
 to the scenery which surrounded us, and 
 I dwelt on its graces with peculiar delight. 
 Although we, w^ho have been bred up in 
 the midst of peopled towns, and accus- 
 tomed, from our infancy, to the wants and 
 conveniencies of polished society, have 
 many artificial perceptions, yet I do not re- 
 quire the vivid colouring of imagination, or 
 the studied embellishments of poetry, to 
 conceive the charms of pastoral life. What, 
 indeed, can be more enviable than that 
 state of innocence and independence which 
 once prevailed, before the heart was cor- 
 roded by too intimate an acquaintance with 
 the vices and refinements of the world ; 
 when the shepherd's only thought was 
 how to pass the day contentedly ; when he 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 531 
 
 wandered about with his flocks and herds, 
 enjoying the pure gratifications of his 
 own feelings, and securing, through Hfe, 
 that almost certain reward of sobriety and 
 virtue, a sound constitution, and a peace- 
 ful mind ! Leaving this wood, we had not 
 proceeded far before we met the Constan- 
 tinople courier who was on his road to 
 Smyrna, and who, to perform this journey, 
 generally requires five days. The post, in 
 Turkey, is not, as with us, under the con- 
 trol and patronage of the government, 
 but is ^n establishment agreed on, and 
 regulated, by the different foreign or native 
 merchants and traders, residing in the large 
 towns, who consult their own advantage, 
 and, according to the extent of their con- 
 cerns, contribute their quota of the ex- 
 pence. When a courier is the bearer of 
 letters of importance, and arrives earlier 
 than usual, in addition to his regular sti- 
 pend, he is generally presented with a 
 sum of money, as a compensation for his 
 diligence and exertion. One poor fellow, 
 a few years back, in the month of July, 
 
2^2 TRAVELS 
 
 stimulated by the hopes of the reward, 
 reached Smyrna in three days and a half. 
 On his arrival, for such an extraordinary 
 effort, he received a present of forty dollars, 
 and died a few hours after, of fatigue. 
 Scarcely was the courier out of sight, 
 when we fell in with some attendants 
 belonging to a pacha, who was encamped 
 before a village at a small distance off, and 
 was threatening an immediate commence- 
 ment of hostilities, unless its inhabitants 
 consented to supply him, without delay, 
 with a few purses of money*. But they 
 had the spirit, peremptorily to refuse a 
 compUance with such an unjustifiable 
 demand, and nobly returned him for an- 
 swer, that they were resolved to defend 
 their property with their lives. If my 
 good wishes could bring them success, it 
 should most certainly be insured to them ; 
 for I cannot help cursing that dastardly 
 avarice which extorts from the needy, 
 
 * A purse is lOO sequins. A sequin is five dol- 
 lars, and a dollar is two shillings sterling. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 233 
 
 and persecutes the weak, from a convic- 
 tion, that strength must, at last, overpower 
 the generous, but fruitless, efforts of inade- 
 quate resistance. How naturally, and how 
 ardently, one desires to oppose the course of 
 oppression, and to see the triumph of vic- 
 tory reward the exertions of justice. But, 
 unfortunately, desires cannot provide sup- 
 port, and all that a private man can do, is 
 to express his resentment at those acts 
 which he is unable to chastise. 
 
 This part of the country is extremely 
 well wooded, and affords a retreat to an 
 abundance of game, which, from the 
 scantiness of population, is not much mo- 
 lested by the fowler's or gunner's skill. 
 
 A few miles before we reached Maar- 
 litch, we traversed a large plain, on which 
 we perceived, at a distance, nine columns. 
 On inquiry, we found that they had been 
 erected at the expence of an individual, 
 and were intended to support an aqueduct, 
 which was to convey water to the city. 
 Unfortunately, he died before the work was 
 completed, and its present decayed state is 
 
 VOL. I. H H 
 
234 TRAVELS 
 
 suffered to exhibit a shameful memorial of 
 the lack of liberality and public spirit. We 
 were, however, desirous of approaching 
 and examining them more minutely. Thus 
 stimulated by our curiosity, we paid very 
 little attention to our horses, which were 
 dreadfully jaded ; but, spurring them over 
 ploughed fields and ditches, at length ar- 
 rived at the foot of one of them. It was, 
 according to our calculation, about sixty 
 feet high, and was solidly built of flint, 
 tile, and stone, wath a winding staircase 
 within, which conducted to the top, 
 whence there was an extensive prospect. 
 
 About mid-day wx alighted at Maar- 
 litch, nearly as much fatigued as our 
 horses, and very well pleased at having 
 accomplished the first division of our 
 journey. 
 
 In the course of this journey, my eyes 
 and thoughts were frequently wandering 
 towards the shores of Troy, and I could 
 not help lamenting, that I had not an 
 opportunity of visiting a spot, which has 
 produced so many gods and heroes ; where 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 53^ 
 
 mount Ida still rears its lofty head ; where 
 the Simois and Scamander still continue 
 to flow; and where every surrounding 
 object has been described, and immortal- 
 ized, by the transcendent genius of Homer. 
 I shall write you again to-morrow, and 
 give you an account of the remainder of 
 this journey. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
2^6 TRAVELS 
 
 LETTER XIII. 
 
 Constantinople, May 5, 1 792. 
 
 Maarlitch stands on the banks 
 of the Mikahtza, which, at the distance of a 
 few miles, falls into the sea of Marmara. 
 This river is the ancient Rhyndacus, so 
 celebrated for the signal victory which 
 Lucullus gained over Mithridates, and 
 which is so elegantly recorded by the pen 
 of Plutarch*. It has also been the scene 
 of many a bloody contest, during the his- 
 tory of the rising empire of the Turks. 
 The town is of considerable extent, and 
 we found the bazar well supplied with a 
 variety of merchandize ; but what sur- 
 prised me most, was the astonishing num- 
 ber of blacksmiths, whose shops form one 
 
 * Sec Plutarch, Lucul. vlt. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 ^2>7 
 
 of the principal streets, and called to my 
 recollection Virgil's description of the re- 
 sidence of Vulcan*. 
 
 The inhabitants of this place are very 
 much distressed for water, which they 
 are obliged to fetch from a great distance, 
 there being no springs in the town, and 
 the river, which flows near it, is so muddy 
 that it is unfit for use. 
 
 Having previously satisfied ourselves 
 concerning the absence of the plague, we 
 ventured into a house, and employed a part 
 of our time in allaying our hunger, and 
 recruiting our strength, with an excellent 
 bowl of kimac. 
 
 According to agreement, we quitted our 
 horses here, and without any regret, for 
 they were quite overcome with their ex- 
 ertions. It was not, however, without 
 difficulty that we procured others, and 
 several hours elapsed, before we could 
 come to an arrangement about the price. 
 
 * The shoe of the Turkish horses is unlike that 
 worn by ours. It is a round broad rim of iron, 
 without any break in it. 
 
238 TRAVELS 
 
 I had long been anticipating the plea- 
 sure of vaulting on a fresh and vigorous 
 steed ; but expectation frequently leads to 
 disappointment; and when I first saw the 
 animal which was allotted to me, I verily 
 concluded, that I should have a consider- 
 able portion of the remainder of my jour- 
 ney to perform on foot. It was so su- 
 premely ugly, that even the Rosinante of 
 Don Quixote, placed by his side, might 
 have been commended for his beauty and 
 grace. My beast, moreover, possessed a 
 quality in which the courser of that re- 
 nowned knight was fortunately deficient ; 
 for at times, particularly in the morning, 
 he was so offensive to the nose, that no 
 body would ride near him. This, I be- 
 lieve, was occasioned by a disorder with 
 which several of our horses were afflicted, 
 and which, I imagine, is peculiar to this 
 country ; at least, I never observed it any 
 where else. In many parts of their bodies 
 the blood, in narrow streaks, burst through 
 the skin, and these wounds used to heal 
 and break out afresh, or in other parts, in 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. oog 
 
 the course of twenty- four hours. They 
 disfigured the animal a good deal, but did 
 not seem to occasion either pain or incon- 
 venience. 
 
 Shortly after leaving Maarlitch, a dilapi- 
 dated castle presented itself, which stands 
 on an eminence, and commands the town, 
 and which, when in repair, must have 
 been of considerable strength. A little 
 farther on, we observed a solid stone build- 
 ing, which we. rode up to, ai;d alighted 
 from our horses to examine. It consisted 
 of a large vault, the architecture of which 
 displayed some rude taste : and a wide 
 stone chimney was erected at each end, 
 and carried through the roof It appeared . 
 too solid and expensive a fabric for a 
 caravansary, but for what other purpose 
 it could have been designed I am at a loss 
 to determine. • 
 
 This day was memorable for the dis- 
 continuation of the cold northerly wind, 
 which had persecuted us, without inter- 
 mission, ever since our departure from 
 Smyrna. Contrasted with the scorching 
 
::40 TKAVELS 
 
 heat of the sun, it had produced dreadful 
 effects on our faces, having blistered them 
 terribly, and swelled our noses to an im- 
 moderate size. But we suffered most 
 from it at night ; for, in spite of all our 
 precautions, it penetrated our tent, and 
 made us shiver, for hours, after we were 
 in bed. 
 
 The janizary and our other attendants 
 used regularly, every morning, to discharge 
 their fire-arms ; and when they were chil- 
 led by the keenness of the air, in order to 
 warm themselves, by assisting the circu- 
 lation of their blood, they would shout for 
 several minutes together. This method of 
 expelling the cold, provoked our laughter 
 at first ; but we afterwards practised it, 
 and found it of some service. 
 
 We had a very curious fellow of our 
 party, who was son to one of the mule- 
 drivers. He was a young man of eigh- 
 teen, and, notw^ithstanding his time of life, 
 and the activity and exertion which his 
 situation seemed to require, he w^as almost 
 perpetually asleep. I never shall forget 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 2i^l 
 
 the ludicrous figure which he made one 
 morning at breakfast, when his father 
 giving him an egg, he received it, between 
 sleeping and waking, and immediately 
 crammed it into his mouth, without tak- 
 ing off the shell. It kept him employed 
 nearly a quarter of an hour, before he 
 could swallow it, which was no sooner 
 accomplished, than, as if completely ex- 
 hausted with the exertions, he returned to 
 a state of the most inanimate lethargy. 
 
 The favourable alteration in the wea- 
 ther enabled us to examine, and to enjoy, 
 the beauties of the country we passed 
 through. After being on horseback for a 
 few hours we arrived at a lake on whose 
 banks we rode for several miles. It was 
 adorned with numberless islands, which 
 were clothed with wood, and enamelled 
 with the brightest verdure ; and, for several 
 miles round, was exhibited one of the most 
 elegant natural gardens I ever beheld. On 
 every side some pleasing or striking object 
 presented itself, and, tow^ards the north, 
 mount Olympus towered to the skies, and 
 
 VOL. I. II 
 
242 TRAVELS 
 
 majestically terminated the view. As the 
 road approaches Brusa, it borders on a 
 luxuriant plain, at the nearest extremity of 
 which, there is a large and thick coppice, 
 that furnishes a retreat to thousands of 
 nightingales, which, as if to regale the 
 wearied traveller, chant their melodious 
 notes the whole day long. 
 
 We went a few miles out of our way 
 to see the baths of Chechirgui. They 
 were built by the Genoese, w^hen this part 
 of the country was in their possession, and 
 are esteemed the most magnificent in the 
 Turkish dominions*. The principal one 
 consists of a spacious hall, with a ceiling 
 formed into three domes, with glass lan- 
 terns at top, through which the light is 
 admitted, and, in the centre, an elegant 
 marble fountain is erected, which, through 
 several pipes, pours into a large bason its 
 
 * Magnificent as they are, they vanish into no- 
 thingness, compared with those of Caracalla and 
 Diocletian, of which Seneca, whilst he is raihng at 
 the vices and luxury of Rome, gives such a glowing 
 description. — See Sen. epist. Ixxxvi. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 543 
 
 pellucid and refreshing waters. It is en- 
 tirely paved with marble, and along the 
 w^alls, on each side, there is a range of 
 seats covered with mattresses, where we 
 found some smoaking, or drinking colfee 
 and sherbet, and others reposing them- 
 selves, after bathing. To the right of this 
 hall, are two passages, one of which leads 
 to the hot, and the other to the cold, bath. 
 Before we arrived at the hot bath, we 
 passed through several rooms of atmo- 
 spheres, progressively warmer, which ob- 
 viate the inconvenience of a too sudden 
 change of air. The pavement is heated 
 by subterraneous flews, but the temperature 
 of the water, which is very hot, is not 
 artificial. It is conducted through the 
 walls into the baths, by several leaden 
 pipes, and, from the copperas which ad- 
 heres to the places whence it issues, is 
 supposed to pass through extensives mines 
 of vitriol. The baths and apartments for 
 the women, are on the opposite side of the 
 hall. 
 
 These baths are held in high reput«. 
 
^44 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 and their fame attracts invalids from the 
 remotest parts of the empire. In summer 
 time, they arc kept open from four in tlic 
 morning till eight at night, and the usual 
 price is from two to four aspars, or about 
 one penny sterling. The attendants arc 
 numerous, and one of them waits on every 
 bather, who has a great many ceremonies 
 to go through. In the course of the ope- 
 ration, every joint of his body is cracked, 
 even the vertebrae of the back, which is 
 performed with wonderful dexterity. They 
 pressed me very much to try the experi- 
 ment ; but I felt no inclination to be so 
 roughly handled. Those, however, who 
 are accustomed to it, consider it as a great 
 luxury, and always put on their clothes 
 with reluctance. The women are exces- 
 sively fond of going to the baths, where 
 they meet old friends, and form new ac- 
 quaintance ; and where they can always 
 pass their time more pleasantly, and with 
 less restraint, than at home. They fre- 
 quently remain there for several hours, 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 545 
 
 chatting and embroidering, and refreshing 
 themselves with sherbet and coffee. Ladies 
 of distinction are conveyed thither in the 
 carriages of the country, which are clumsy 
 vehicles, shut up on every side with wooden 
 blinds, that admit a circulation of air 
 without discovering to the inquisitive 
 eyes of passengers the charms of those 
 within. 
 
 Besides these baths, the only object 
 that merits attention at Chechlrgui, is 
 the principal mosch, which is a stately 
 building. 
 
 We found the people of this place 
 uncommonly impertinent and curious. 
 The moment we alighted from our horses, 
 a number of them surrounded us, and, 
 without asking our permission, one took 
 a cutlass, another a pistol, a third got hold 
 of a saddle, and did not quit them till 
 they had minutely examined every part. 
 This kind of inquisitiveness which proceeds 
 from ignorance, is, of all others, the most 
 teasing. No common answer will satisfy 
 it, but it still goes on, wondering and 
 
546 TRAVELS 
 
 and questioning, till it is at last completely 
 puzzled by its own conclusions. 
 
 Whilst we were here, we had an op- 
 portunity of putting the delicacy of our 
 janizary to the test. • Out of our stock of 
 provisions, we had still remaining an ex- 
 cellent piece of beef, which, as wc were 
 so near Brusa, we thought we might ven- 
 ture to make a present of to this fellow. 
 But when w'c offered it to him, to our 
 great surprise, he refused it, adding, that 
 the day before he had seen it on a plate 
 with some ham. Although I knew that 
 the Koran was as severe as the Jewish 
 law, respecting its inhibitions against 
 touching any of the iindeau. ammals, I 
 had no notion of meeting, in a hungry 
 janizary, with such an instance of scrupu- 
 lous pertinacity *. I fancy, however, that 
 he would have been less conscientious, had 
 he not been within hearing of his country- 
 
 * The Persian Mahometans cat pork, drink wine, 
 and ornament their houses with pictures. The 
 Turks, however, stigmatize them with the name of 
 schismatics. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. ^^47 
 
 men, among whom he always assumed an 
 air of superiority. When applause or re- 
 spect can be insured by any trifling self- 
 denial, we seldom hesitate to comply. It 
 is a sacrifice of moment, that creates the 
 feelings of repugnance, and weakens the 
 barriers of duty. 
 
 About two o'clock we arrived at Brusa, 
 which is one of the largest and most 
 ancient cities of Asia. .Formerly it was 
 the capital of the flourishing kingdom of 
 Bithynia, where the great but unfortunate 
 Hannibal terminated his existence, and 
 where the Romans maintained a long and 
 doubtful w^arfare with the artful Prusias. 
 It has since been the seat of the Ottoman 
 empire *, and the mausoleums of several 
 
 * Brusa was, for a long time, the capital of the 
 Turks. It was besieged, and reduced, by famine, 
 ^fter a tedious blockade, by Orchan, in the year of 
 the Hegira 726 (which was the year i325 of the 
 Christian era), during the reign of his father Olh- 
 man I. who was the founder of the Ottoman em- 
 pire. 
 
 It was the birth-place of Asclepiades, the celebrated 
 physician. 
 
248 TRAVELS 
 
 sultans (among which is that of Orchan) 
 arc still to be seen. It stands at the foot 
 of Olympus, a mountain of an immense 
 height, which derives its name from the 
 cclebfated Olympus in Thessaly, which 
 was feigned by the ancients to be the resi- 
 dence of their gods. At all seasons of the 
 year, its summit is covered with snow ; 
 whilst the lower hills are planted with fir, 
 beech, aspin, yolk-elm, plane, and chesnut- 
 trees, and clothed with the brightest ver- 
 dure. It so abounds with springs, that no 
 city in Turkey is so well supplied with 
 water, almost every house having a foun- 
 tain, which the Turks reckon among their 
 chief luxuries. These springs swell into 
 the most delightful crystal streams, as they 
 fall into the valley, and abound with trout 
 and other excellent fish ; and the surround- 
 ing country is in a high state of cultivation, 
 and covered with vineyards, fruit trees, and 
 luxuriant woods. On the southern side of 
 the city, lies a fertile and extensive plain, 
 planted with mulberry-trees for the nou- 
 rishment of the silk-worms, which pros* 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 249 
 
 per here exceedingly, and produce remark- 
 ably fine silk. They are not, however, 
 bred on the trees ; but are kept within 
 doors, where their food is brought to 
 them. 
 
 Brusa, thus situated, presents a singular, 
 but beautiful and romantic, landscape. As 
 we approached it, we saw it in various 
 points of view, and the scenery, through 
 all its changes, was either elegant or wild, 
 and always interesting. In some parts, 
 many of the houses are built a considerable 
 way up the mountain, whilst others stand 
 more securely in the valley below : in 
 other parts, the minarets add to the splen- 
 dour, and the plane-trees to the softness, 
 of the picture. A wall, which is in a 
 ruinous state, surrounds the city, within 
 which none but musslumans are permitted 
 to dw^ell ; but the suburbs, which are faj- 
 more extensive, and infinitely better built 
 and paved, are inhabited by Greeks, Jews, 
 and Armenians. Comprising both, the 
 population is computed to amount to one 
 hundred and thirty thousand souls. They 
 
 VOL. I. K K 
 
550 TRAVELS 
 
 carry on a considerable trade * in silk, 
 which is exported in the raw state to every 
 part of Europe, and their manufactures in 
 this article, in carpets, in gold, and in 
 velvet brocade, are justly esteemed. Al- 
 though they have not yet been able, by the 
 assistance of such perfect machinery, to 
 simplify and reduce the exertions of labour 
 with the same success as we, yet the fabric 
 of them is very ingenious, and much taste 
 is displayed in the variety and arrange- 
 ment of the patterns. 
 
 It was in the reign of the emperor 
 Justinian that the silk-worm was first 
 introduced into Europe. The luxury of 
 the Romans had long since rendered the 
 manufacture an indisoensable article of 
 dress, and it was transported, annually, 
 in caravans, from China to the coast of 
 Syria, by a tedious, expensive, and cir- 
 cuitous, route. The Persian merchants, 
 
 * The caravans from Constantinople and Aleppo 
 to Ispahan pass through Brusa, whence one for Persia 
 sets out every two months. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 2^1 
 
 who frequented the fairs of Armenia and 
 Nisibis, deUvered it into the hands of the 
 Romans, and reaped considerable benefits 
 from the monopoly of this important and 
 valuable branch of commerce. Two Per- 
 sian monks, who had resided in China 
 for a length of time, and had observed 
 with attention the management of this 
 remarkable insect, conceived the project 
 of conveying some of the eggs to Con- 
 stantinople, and, receiving encouragement 
 from the emperor, they evaded the jealous 
 vigilance of the Chinese, by concealing 
 them in the hollow of a cane. Under 
 their direction, on their return, the eggs 
 were hatched, the worms fed, and the 
 race propagated*. Such was the origin of 
 a production, which is now cultivated 
 with success, not only in the Turkish 
 empire, but in many parts of Europe, 
 where it forms one of the principal sources 
 
 * See Gibbon's eleji-ant and interestino- account of 
 tbis event (vol. vii. p. 98), from which the above is 
 Abridged. 
 
^s- 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 of revenue to the state, and employment 
 to the people. 
 
 The moschs are numerous, and several 
 of them have large domes, covered with 
 lead, and are, in every respect, magnificent 
 structures. The seraglio *, which was 
 erected by Mahomet IV. is an extensive 
 edifice, standing on an eminence. It 
 commands a most enchanting prospect, 
 and is inaccessible on every side, but that 
 which leads to the city. The royal col- 
 leges, where students are nourished, and 
 instructed in Arabic learning, free of ex- 
 pence, are well endowed, and in high 
 repute. The caravansaries are both hand- 
 some and convenient, and the bazar, 
 which occupies a large space of ground, 
 is furnished wuth all the productions of the 
 Levant, and with many rich and costly 
 articles from the different countries of 
 Europe. The bazars in the East, like 
 Bond-street in London, are the principal 
 lounge of all idle people ; and some of the 
 
 * There is another seraglio, called the old, which 
 was built by Aniurat I. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 ^53 
 
 shops, though in a different style, display 
 nearly as much splendour and taste. Whilst 
 we were walking about in this grand repo- 
 sitory of merchandize and wealth, we met 
 the pacha on foot. He was attended by 
 several of his guards, and every body made 
 w^ay for him, as he approached, with the 
 greatest obsequiousness, which he returned 
 with looks of sullen pride and contempt. 
 He, the janizary aga, and the cadi, divide 
 the government of the place. 
 
 A Jew, who accosted us shortly after 
 our arrival, and who had politely con- 
 ducted us about the city, towards the 
 evening, took us to a place where pipes 
 and coffee are provided, and which, on 
 account of its agreeable situation, is much 
 resorted to, during the summer months. 
 To get there, we were obliged to mount 
 a steep ascent, when we were surprised at 
 finding a large plat of ground, neatly laid 
 with turf, and planted with trees. A cur- 
 rent of water, which derives its source from 
 an overhanging mountain, passes through 
 it, and, from being confined between two 
 
-54 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 large planks, flows with great impetuosity. 
 Under the shade of these trees, and on 
 the banks of this current, the Turks re- 
 pose on their carpets, and, with the alter- 
 nate amusement of a pipe, a cup of coffee, 
 and a nap, contrive to loiter away the 
 day. Of these three indolent occupa- 
 tions, which consume so great a portion of 
 their time, the pipe seems to afford the 
 greatest enjoyment, and their genius has 
 been exerted in the refinement of this 
 luxury. The pipe in the highest estimation 
 has a tube, four or five feet long, one end 
 of which is put into a glass globe, half full 
 of water, and is so contrived, that, as the 
 breath is drawn, the smoke rushes through 
 the water, and is consequently received 
 cool into the mouth. When the water 
 begins to lose its freshness, it is changed, 
 which operation is performed several times, 
 before the tobacco is exhausted. 
 
 During the whole of our journey, we 
 had been complaining of the great scarcity 
 of provisions, making sometimes fruitless 
 inquiries, even after bread : and, notw ith- 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 25$ 
 
 standing the population of Brusa, no flesh 
 was to be procured. On asking the reason, 
 of what appeared on the first view so 
 very incomprehensible, I was informed, 
 that, at this season of the year, between 
 the rising and the setting of the sun, 
 scarcely any eatable is ever to be obtained, 
 on account of the ramazan, which is the 
 Turkish lent, and which, although a re- 
 ligious, I will venture to add, is a ridicu- 
 lous institution. It lasts for four weeks, 
 during which time the order of Nature is 
 completely reversed, and the followers of 
 Mahomet, whilst the day continues, are 
 strictly forbidden to take any kind of sus- 
 tenance. However violent may be the 
 cravings of an empty stomach, till the sun 
 has sunk below the horizon, they must be 
 endured. Sleep is permitted; but the 
 pipe is a luxury, in which it is unlawful 
 to indulge, and even the use of water is 
 regarded as a criminal excess. These se- 
 vere and absurd injunctions prove fatal to 
 a number of people, especially to those 
 who are advanced in years. They arc. 
 
256 TRAVELS 
 
 however, relaxed in favour of the sick and 
 travellers, w^hich is a convenient conces- 
 sion for persons who are not over consci- 
 entious. But if the law be strictly com- 
 plied with, those, who, from illness or 
 other reasons, have omitted to fast during 
 the regular period, are not suffered to escape; 
 but are bound to keep an exact account of 
 the days of indulgence, and to submit to 
 the penalty as soon as these obstacles are 
 removed. 
 
 The ramazan is the ninth month of the 
 Turkish year, and was ordained by Mahomet 
 hiniself, who declared it was at that period 
 he received the Koran from heaven. The 
 length of their month being entirely regu- 
 lated by the moon, this fast consequently 
 falls at different seasons. When it hap- 
 pens in the summer, those, who observe 
 it rigidly, suffer dreadfully from thirst, and 
 wait, with the greatest impatience, for the 
 voice of the muezzins, or criers, who an- 
 nounce, from the minarets, the hour at 
 which it is lawful to take food. Many 
 ascend the highest hills to watch the set- 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 2^y 
 
 ting sun, and acclamations of joy attend 
 its departure. As the evening closes in, all 
 kinds of preparations are going forward, 
 to make amends for the abstinence and 
 lingering weariness of the day, and the 
 night is passed in festive jollity, or drunken 
 riot and sensual debauch. This is a season 
 of licence, and, under the certain shadow 
 of darkness, every kind of intemperance is 
 practised with impunity. The bans in the 
 large towns exhibit a curious scene. They 
 are well lighted up, and are crowded with 
 people of all descriptions, who seem to 
 have met with a determination to enjoy 
 themselves. The saturnine disposition of 
 the Turks relaxes into cheerfulness, and 
 hilarity circulates with every testimony of 
 freedom and good-will. 
 
 The caravansaries, which are erected in 
 all the large towns, and on the principal 
 roads of the empire, are spacious buildings, 
 and generally of a quadrangular form. 
 They have a bench, fixed to the wall on 
 every side, raised a few feet from the 
 ground, and about six feet iji width, on 
 
 VOL. I, L L 
 
2^S TRAVELS 
 
 which the travellers spread their mattresses ; 
 and the area, in the middle, is occupied by 
 the camels, horses, and mules. Although 
 the caravansaries in this city are on a grand 
 scale, being at this season much occupied, 
 we were so fearful of the plague, that we 
 preferred passing the night in a warehouse ; 
 but we were miserably off, for the fleas, 
 with which it swarmed, so tormented us, 
 that we could get no sleep. The people 
 of the country are not, I fancy, so much 
 exposed to their attacks, for, instead of 
 taking any pains to get rid of them, they 
 seem to encourage their propagation, by 
 covering their floors with mats, which 
 afford them a secure and convenient sheU 
 ter. 
 
 Shortly after we had taken up our 
 quarters in the warehouse, a man, whom 
 curiosity had induced to pay us a visit, 
 entered, and, being of an inquisitive dis- 
 position, soon began to chat with the fa- 
 miliarity of an old acquaintance. We 
 Avere desirous of amusing him as much as 
 we could, and, after having shewn him a 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. ZS9 
 
 variety of things, Mecherdith, recollecting 
 that I had a bottle of phosphorous, begged 
 I would light a match with it, merely to 
 see what degree of surprise it would oc- 
 casion. I accordingly dipped one into the 
 bottle, and, on pulling it out, when he 
 first perceived the flame, he had such an 
 aspect of astonishment and fear, that I 
 really believe he suspected the operation 
 was performed by some magical process. 
 To obtain fire from a place in which he 
 had no conception that the element could 
 be confined, confounded his reason, and 
 puzzled his imagination. Having fixed 
 his eyes upon us for about a minute in 
 silent wonder, he expressed a wish to ex- 
 amine the match, which I presented to 
 him. Eager to unravel the mystery, after 
 viewing it in various positions, he at last 
 applied it to his nose ; but was so startled 
 at the effect which the brimstone pro- 
 duced, that he hastily threw it down, ap- 
 peared tacitly to condemn his thirst after 
 knowledge, and took the first opportunity 
 of stealing out of the room. 
 
:360 TRAVELS 
 
 On the 5d of May we proceeded on our 
 journey, and had not travelled many miles, 
 when we were gratified with the sight 
 of one of the most enchanting and finished 
 landscapes, I ever beheld. It consisted of a 
 plain, planted with chesnut, cherry, and 
 mulberry trees, not too confined to de- 
 stroy its effect, or too extensive for its 
 beauties to be lost. The plantations were 
 arranged with unstudied taste, and the 
 interstices were filled up with parterres of 
 vines, whose prolific branches were trained 
 round the trees. On three sides the view 
 was terminated by lofty mountains, which 
 were cultivated to their very summits, 
 and in many parts adorned with serpentine 
 hedges, composed of jessamy, eglantine, 
 and honey-suckle, which grew in wild 
 luxuriance, and perfumed the air. The 
 plain was intersected by a meandering 
 rivulet, that, enriching and adorning in its 
 course, gently poured its tribute into the 
 sea, by which the fourth side was bounded. 
 The pencil of Claude, wonderful as it is, 
 would have shrunk from all competition 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 361 
 
 before the colouring that was here dis- 
 played, and I wish that you, who are a 
 lover of cultivated nature, had been with 
 me to participate my feelings, whilst I w^s 
 dweUing on this unrivalled picture. 
 
 In the course of the day, we passed an 
 arm of the sea, on the borders of which 
 a few workmen were building a ship of 
 war for the grand seignor. How long it 
 had been on the stocks, I cannot pretend 
 to say ; but it was not in a very advanced 
 state, and, from the slovenly manner in 
 which it was put together, I thought 
 there was some chance of its falling to 
 pieces, before it was completed. Whilst 
 observing it, I could not help reflecting, 
 and with no small degree of pride and 
 satisfaction, on the navy and dock-yards 
 of Great Britain, those grand bulwarks of 
 our strength ! How they would surprise 
 the narrow conceptions of these ignorant 
 and clumsy mechanics ! 
 
 We had been ten hours (a tedious length 
 of time) on horseback, when we stopped 
 
26Z TRAVELS 
 
 to dine tinder the shade of a tree, on the 
 banks of a rapid brook, exhibiting no 
 incorrect copy of the simple contrivances 
 of pastoral life. 
 
 After dinner we travelled for four hours, 
 and, desirous of finishing our journey, we 
 made one effort more, and, setting off at 
 ten o'clock at night, reached Yalova by 
 five in the morning, which, although now 
 but an insignificant village, was once cele- 
 brated for its splendour and extent, and 
 for being the imperial residence of Dio- 
 cletian *. 
 
 It is scarcely possible to imagine the 
 wretched state of the road which we tra- 
 versed for the last twelve or fourteen 
 miles. It was extremely narrow, and 
 rugged beyond description ; and, in many 
 parts, so thickly overshaded with trees, 
 that it resembled all the horrours of en- 
 chantment. The poor horses, which car- 
 ried our baggage, had many severe falls, 
 
 * See Gibbon, vol. iii. p. 7. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. z6^ 
 
 and those we rode hardly made a step 
 without stumbling. Like true English- 
 men, we scorned all admonition, and, 
 flattering ourselves every moment that 
 the road would mend, we preferred run- 
 ning the risk of breaking our necks to the 
 trouble of dismounting. Had not, how- 
 ever, the obscurity of the night concealed 
 our danger, we should perhaps have 
 been less imprudent. Our conductors, 
 astonished at the dreadful ruggedness of 
 the path, began to suspect that they had 
 missed their way ; and, whilst they were 
 communicating their doubts to each 
 other, a man was fortunately discovered] 
 who, being better acquainted with the 
 geography of the country, soon relieved 
 them from their dilemma. 
 
 We only waited at Yalova time enough 
 to engage a vessel, and make the necessary 
 preparations for our embarkation. About 
 seven o'clock we went on board, and, after 
 a pleasant sail of eight hours on the sea 
 of Marmara, (the ancient Propontis) we 
 
26^ TRAVELS 
 
 came in sight of that renowned capital, 
 which presents one of the most glorious 
 and magnificent scenes in the world, and 
 for a description of which I shall refer you 
 to the elegant Gibbon *. 
 
 The sea of Marmara has always been 
 celebrated for its exquisite fish, which is 
 caught in abundance at stated seasons, and 
 the shores, both of Thrace and Bithynia, 
 by which it is encircled, exhibit a lux- 
 uriant prospect of vineyards, and gardens, 
 and woods, and meadows, and corn-fields, 
 which yield a regular and productive 
 harvest. 
 
 Poor Mecherdith, who had never been 
 at sea before, was so agitated with fear, 
 and so enervated with illness, that when 
 we first caught the sight of a minaret, for 
 which we had been long eagerly watching, 
 and told him, that we had at last dis- 
 covered Constantinople, he languidly raised 
 his head, and, without ever looking round, 
 
 * See Gibbon's Rom. Emp. vol. i. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. :z6^ 
 
 dropped it again, nor could all our persua- 
 sion induce him to move a second time, 
 till he got up to jump on shore. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
 VOL. I. M M 
 
266 TRAVELS 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 
 Constantinople, May g, 1792. 
 
 The inside of Constantinople by 
 no means corresponds with the splendid 
 scene which it presents as you approach 
 it. The streets are narrow and badly 
 paved, and the houses are, in general, of 
 wood, and rudely built. Most of them 
 are two stories high, and have balconies 
 and terraces, where the Turks, in fine 
 weather, smoke their pipes, and drink 
 their coffee. The city is surrounded with 
 a wall, flanked with towers, which is in 
 pretty good repair, but quite unfurnished 
 with artillery. Comprehending the sub- 
 urbs of Pera and Galata, it is of an 
 immense extent, and is computed to con- 
 tain upwards of six hundred thousand 
 souls. Being the capital of a rich and 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 2,6y 
 
 populous empire, like all other great cities, 
 it is the seat of profligacy and dissipation, 
 and pre-eminently distinguished for luxury 
 and vice. 
 
 When we reflect on the sudden, various, 
 and total revolutions, which this renowned 
 metropolis has undergone; when we re- 
 collect, that it was once the receptacle of 
 an undistinguished colony of Greeks ; that 
 it was afterwards created by Constantine 
 the capital of the world, and ordained to 
 rear its lofty head above the majestic walls 
 of Rome ; and that, finally, after arduous 
 and repeated struggles, it was destined to 
 yield to the arms of a barbarian conqueror, 
 and to remain, for so many centuries, in 
 the possession of a race of infidels; we 
 have a most awful and striking lesson, on 
 the insignificance of human grandeur, the 
 instability of fortune, and the folly of re- 
 posing, with too much confidence, on the 
 permanency of present strength. 
 
 Whilst under the dominion of Con- 
 stantine and his successors, it had been 
 adorned with some of the choicest pro- 
 
268 TRAVELS 
 
 ductions of art, and, in point of magnifi- 
 ficence, even emulated Rome. The wealth, 
 the labour, the genius, of the empire, 
 was employed in the embellishment of 
 the new capital, and what, in conse- 
 quence of the degeneracy of skill and of 
 taste, these were unable to furnish, was 
 supplied from the scattered remains of a 
 more fortunate and enlightened era. The 
 immortal productions of the Grecian 
 chisel were removed from their ancient 
 abodes, and transported, at an enormous 
 expence, from the most remote provinces, 
 to this favoured spot. Every region was 
 ransacked to contribute to its splendour. 
 Europe, Asia, and Africa were the exten- 
 sive scene of plunder, and were compelled 
 to deliver up the treasures of art, and even 
 the objects of adoration "••'*. At the time 
 when it was taken, in the fifteenth century, 
 by Mahomet II. many of these noble 
 
 * Buonaparte has been acting on the same plan; 
 and every country, where his power has been feh, 
 has been sacrificed to his personal vanity. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. ^6^ 
 
 monuments of human ingenuity and per- 
 severance still existed ; but it was the ob- 
 ject and the labour of its new master to 
 mutilate or destroy every vestige, whicH 
 could convey any idea of the advance- 
 ment of learning arid the fine arts. It 
 was not, however, one reign which could 
 accomplish this unworthy, this sacrile- 
 gious design, and, even to this day, there 
 are some few remains of antiquity to be 
 seen, which are worthy of exciting ad- 
 miration, and which kindle emotions of 
 pious regret for what has been lost, and 
 can never be restored. 
 
 Any riionument w^hich, through a long 
 succession of ages, has been an object of 
 curiosity or veneration, is always viewed, 
 by a person of letters, with a mixture of 
 pleasurable sensations, arising from a com- 
 bination of circumstances which memory 
 arranges in his mind. It is either emble- 
 matical of popular superstition, or it re- 
 cords, or corroborates, or explains, some 
 historical fact, or it exhibits a specimen of 
 that sublime genius which was so conspi- 
 
iS^O TRAVELS 
 
 cuous a feature in the works of the an- 
 cients. 
 
 The first place we were conducted to, 
 was the Hippodrome, where horse races 
 and other equestrian and athletic amuse- 
 ments were formerly exhibited, and en- 
 gaged in, by the contending parties, with 
 the most furious animosity. The Turks 
 have, indeed, reserved it for similar pur- 
 poses, and are very dexterous in the ma- 
 nagement of their horses, which are sur- 
 prisingly fleet. Here it is they also fre- 
 quently practice throwing the jirid, which 
 is one of their favourite diversions, and 
 at w^hich they are astonishingly expert. 
 These entertainments bear a near resem- 
 blance to the tournaments which were 
 so much in vogue in the age of chivalry, 
 and the Turks enter completely into the 
 spirit of them. They put their horses on 
 the full gallop ; throw their jirids in the 
 air and catch them with the greatest ad- 
 dress ; and pursue each other with the most 
 determined eagerness. They wheel about, 
 retreat, and attack, and go through the 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 2,*]\ 
 
 various evolutions of horsemanship with 
 wonderful rapidity. When they dart at 
 each other, they generally aim at the back, 
 and the principal skill consists in throwing 
 themselves forward on their horses, and 
 avoiding the meditated blow *. But the 
 
 * I have extracted the following note fvom prince 
 Cantemir's History of the Qthman empire. See 
 p. 90. Annotation 4i. 
 
 '^ Thejirid is a sort of light missive javelin much 
 used by the Turks. They, who are expert in the use 
 of it, carry three of these javelins in a case hung from 
 the right side of their horse, with which they hit the 
 mark with an exactness scarce to be matched by the 
 most skilful gunners. Of this I shall give an in- 
 stance, which, had I not been an eye-witness, T 
 should hardly have believed. In the last year of the 
 former war, before the forces departed from Zenta, 
 some of the emperor's chamberlains exercised this 
 sport before him on a plain near Philippolis. The 
 javelins they used were not pointed, but blunt at the 
 end. One Mehemed Aga, a Circassian, and master 
 of the stables (a place of great dignity with the 
 Turks), was among them. One of the company hit 
 him unawares upon the back with a jirid sent with 
 great force. Mehemed, ashamed, and perhaps en- 
 raged with the smart, gave the reins to his horse, of 
 the Egyptian breed, and furiously pursued the flying 
 enemy, who, sensible that if he rid directly on he 
 
2"]% TRAVELS 
 
 Hippodrome, although it thu3 frequently 
 exhibits an animated scene, is stripped of 
 all that magnificence and splendour with 
 which the Greek emperors adorned it, 
 and is now little more than a large irre- 
 gular square, inclosed with irregular 
 buildings. Near its centre there is an 
 obelisk of porphyry, which is in a per- 
 fect state, and, although measuring up- 
 wards of fifty feet in height, is of one 
 stone. It was transported from Thebes in 
 Egypt, and the sides of it are covered with 
 hieroglyphics, the mysterious symbols of 
 that once celebrated country. It rests on 
 four brazen balls, supported by a well- 
 proportioned pedestal, on which there are 
 various clumsy bas-reliefs, and inscriptions, 
 both in Greek and Latin*, mentioning, 
 
 could not escape his pursuer, turned his horse to the 
 right, when Mehemed with a javelin sent after him, 
 blunt as it was, pierced the jaws of his horse, and 
 threw both horse and rider to the ground. I saw the 
 same man, in ostentation of his strength, strike an 
 ordinary and pointless jirid through the outer gate of 
 a monastery in Moldavia, made of planks three 
 inches thick." 
 
 * These inscriptions are now scarcely legible. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 27a 
 
 that it was restored by Thcodosius to its 
 present condition. 
 
 At a small distance from this obelisk, 
 there is a very lofty column, which, from 
 its mutilated appearance, bears the marks 
 of remote antiquity. It is composed of 
 several blocks of marble, and has suffered 
 very seriously from the rough treatment it 
 received when it was pillaged of the plates 
 of gilded bronze with which it was formerly 
 covered. In the time of the Greek em- 
 perors, it was the farthest goal of the 
 Hippodrome, and the inscription on the 
 base speaks of the workmanship of it in 
 terms of high panegyric. 
 
 The famous brazen triple serpent of 
 which Mahomet II. broke one of the 
 heads*, when he triumphantly entered 
 the city, still continues to attract strangers 
 to the Hippodrome, and to remind them 
 of the foolish arrogance of that haughty 
 despot. Exasperated at the long and vi- 
 gorous defence that had been made, he 
 
 * The other two heads have since disappeared. 
 VOL. I. N N 
 
-74 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 regarded this inoffensive serpent as a ta- 
 lisman, which had inspired resistance to 
 his arms, and, for such a length of time, 
 rendered his efforts ineffectual. When it 
 was in his power, he accordingly took his 
 impotent revenge. This remarkable pillar 
 is very ancient, and is said to have been 
 brought from Delphi, where it served to 
 support the celebrated tripod of gold, 
 formed out of a part of the immense trea- 
 sures found in the camp of Mardonius, 
 and which the Greeks, after the battle of 
 Plat^a, consecrated to Apollo*. 
 
 The moschs, in general, are noble 
 structures, and, although incorrect in 
 point of architecture, like the Gothic ca- 
 thedrals with us, are striking on account 
 of their solidity and dimensions. They 
 produce a grand effect, standing in spacious 
 courts, which are ornamented with trees 
 and fountains, and the accesses to them 
 are convenient and good. They have 
 each several domes, and from one to six or 
 
 * See Herodotus, lib. ix. c. 80. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 57^ 
 
 seven minarets, which are high slender 
 towers with two or three outside galleries, 
 whence the muezzins, turning with so- 
 lemnity to the four quarters of the globe, 
 in an audible voice, proclaim the hours of 
 prayer, and admonish the people to assem- 
 ble. Great attention is paid to their preser- 
 vation and cleanliness. They are kept in 
 excellent repair, and many of them are 
 maintained at an enormous expence. Of 
 these moschs, which are extremely nume- 
 rous*, seven, by way of pre-eminence, are 
 distinguished by the title of royal moschs ; 
 and of these again, St. Sophia is, in every 
 respect, the most magnificent and remark- 
 able. I shall, therefore, endeavour to give 
 you a description of it. 
 
 This celebrated temple stands on the 
 ruins of a church of the same name, 
 which was burnt during the memorable 
 sedition of the N'tka, and employed, for 
 the space of nearly six years, the hands of 
 
 * There are said to be upwards of two thousand 
 moschs at Constantinople. 
 
2y6 TRAVELS 
 
 ten thousand workmen. It was erected 
 by Justinian, and dedicated by him to the 
 service of the true God; and, although 
 defaced in many parts, and divested of 
 those costly ornaments which once adorned 
 it, is still a superb edifice. When Ma- 
 homet II. entered the city, he was so 
 struck with the majesty of its appearance, 
 that he allowed it to escape the ravages 
 of his exterminating hand, and converted 
 it into a place of religious worship for his 
 followers. It is built in the form of a 
 Greek cross, and the entrance is through 
 a double portico, which, by means of seve- 
 ral folding doors of bronze covered with 
 bas-reliefs, communicates with the body 
 of the church. The inside consists of an 
 immense lie, three sides of which are en- 
 compassed with a gallery, supported by 
 sixty seven variegated marble pillars. The 
 principal dome, which measures one hun- 
 dred and thirteen feet in diameter, is con- 
 structed on arches which repose on four 
 colossal columns, and is much admired 
 for its gentle concavity, and the justness 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. T.J'J 
 
 of its proportions. The roof is worked 
 in mosaic, the walls are entirely encrusted 
 with marble, and the pavement and stairs, 
 which are covered with carpets, are of 
 the same expensive material. We were 
 only permitted to take a view of this 
 church from a part of the gallery, through 
 a lattice. Several Turks were at prayers, 
 although no person was officiating ; some 
 quite motionless, whilst others entertained 
 us with a variety of violent and extrava- 
 gant gesticulations. Near the middle of 
 the ile, a pulpit is erected for the mufti, 
 and, beyond it, stands a kind of pew with 
 a gilded lattice, which is appropriated to 
 the grand seignor, when he honours this 
 mosch with his presence. The nich, in 
 which the Koran is deposited, always faces 
 the holy city of Mecca, towards which 
 the mussulmans turn, whenever they re- 
 peat their prayers. The Turks ornament 
 the walls of their moschs with moral 
 distichs of Arabian poetry and passages 
 from the Koran, which are written in 
 letters of gold ; but, considering an at- 
 
2y8 TRAVELS 
 
 tempt to represent the human form as a 
 criminal presumption, they neither admit 
 statues nor paintings. Women are also 
 excluded from the moschs, from a fear 
 of their engrossing too much of the at- 
 tention of the men, which is so frequently 
 the case at our own churches, where a 
 pair of fine eyes is apt to relax the fervour 
 of devotion, and to render us totally for- 
 getful of the moral lessons of the preacher. 
 The man who conducted us through the 
 gallery (and who had made us pay pretty 
 handsomely for his trouble*), desired us 
 to remark two stone gates, one of which, 
 he said, led to paradise, the other to the 
 infernal regions. He also, with a sar- 
 castic smile, pointed out a cross, which 
 is represented in mosaic on one of the 
 walls, and is a remnant of the Greek or- 
 naments. There are, indeed, several re- 
 
 * The Turks are rather scrupulous about shew- 
 ing this mosch to strangers, or perhaps they only 
 pretend to be so, because this is the one strangers are 
 most anxious to see. We were obliged fo pay fifteen 
 dollars to gain admission. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 ^79 
 
 mains of mosaic . pictures to be seen in 
 different parts ; but the Turks, taking no 
 pains to preserve them, they are falHng fast 
 to decay. They are made of a curious 
 composition of a vitrified nature, and the 
 colours, which are of numerous shades, 
 retain their original lustre*. 
 
 Such are the principal relicks of the for- 
 mer magnificence of Constantinople, once 
 renowned for laws and arms, once the 
 abode of the sciences and arts, once un- 
 rivalled in riches, in elegance, and splen- 
 dour, the envy of surrounding nations, and 
 the astonishment of an admiring world. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
 * This durable and elegant art, under the patron- 
 age of the present pope, has been revived, and c;)r- 
 ried to a high pitch of perfection, at Rome 
 
28o TRAVELS 
 
 LETTER XV. 
 
 Constantinople, May 10, 1 792, 
 
 In consequence of a multiplicity of 
 engagements, from which I could not possi- 
 bly disentangle myself, I was obliged yester- 
 day to conclude my letter rather abruptly. 
 I have not, however, allowed myself to 
 remain long idle, and, by resuming my 
 narrative so soon, the whole will, in all 
 probability, be conveyed to you by the 
 same post, so that your curiosity will not 
 suffer very materially from the anxiety of 
 suspense. 
 
 St. Sophia has served as a model to all 
 the other moschs, which are built more 
 or less in imitation of it. The Solimany, 
 founded by the munificence of Solyman 
 the second, approaches nearest to its pro- 
 totype both in the costliness of its marble. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 581 
 
 and the size and proportions of its prin- 
 cipal dome. The next in rank is the 
 mosch of Valide*, the favourite sultana 
 of Ibrahim, and mother of Mahomet the 
 fourth, an enterprising and ambitious 
 woman, who for many years directed the 
 councils, and managed the affairs, of the 
 Porte, and was the first female that ob- 
 tained permission to erect a public place 
 of worship. 
 
 As the grand seignor goes publicly to 
 mosch but once a week, which is on a 
 friday ; the day after our arrival, we made 
 a point of seeing the ceremony. 
 
 Crossing over from Galata, which is 
 separated from Constantinople by a narrow 
 channel, before we landed, we employed 
 above an hour in rowing about the har- 
 bour, which presents one of the most 
 lively, beautiful, and interesting spectacles 
 imaginable. It is very spacious, being fif- 
 teen or sixteen miles in circumference, and 
 
 * Valide-Sultana is a general appellation for sul- 
 tana-mother. 
 
 VOL. I. 00 
 
582 TRAVELS 
 
 the water Is covered with ships of war, 
 merchantmen from different quarters of 
 the globe, and a surprising number of 
 boats which are in continual motion, and 
 remarkable for their elegance of shape and 
 decoration. 
 
 This harbour, on account of its curved 
 form and the riches it brought to the city, 
 was known to the ancients under the ex- 
 pressive epithet of the golden horn. The 
 water, not being subject to the vicissitudes 
 of tides, is always nearly of the same 
 depth, and merchant-vessels, at all seasons 
 of the year, can unload their cargoes at the 
 wharf. 
 
 The old walls of Constantinople, which 
 are in some parts double, and defended by 
 towers, are still in tolerable repair; but 
 the streets have a more gloomy appear- 
 ance than those of Galata or Pera. They 
 are narrow, dirty, and miserably paved, 
 and, from the unevenness of the ground, 
 are very fatiguing to foot passengers. All 
 the houses are built of wood, which is 
 brought from the coasts of the Black sea, 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 283 
 
 and they consist, in general, of two stories, 
 of which the upper one projects so much, 
 that in many places you can shake hands 
 across a street. You are now and then 
 surprised by the appearance of a bazar, a 
 market, a caravansary, a mosch, or a 
 public bath, which diverts the attention 
 from the insipid dulness of private dwel- 
 lings. In our way to the seraglio, we 
 passed through the street of Adrianople, 
 which is the widest and longest in the 
 city. We w^ere attended in this excur- 
 sion by a janizary and a dragoman, or in- 
 terpreter, the one serving, as a security to 
 our persons, the other, to explain to us 
 any thing that might attract our atten- 
 tion. A number of these dragomans are 
 attached to the different embassies, and 
 they are frequently people of extensive 
 information. They are very expert at 
 languages, and their knowledge in law and 
 phyfic sometimes raises them to the high- 
 est offices of the state. Many of them, 
 however, are too prudent to accept of 
 places at a court, where nothing is stable, 
 
284 TRAVELS 
 
 where one revolution speedily destroys what 
 another has produced, and where the road 
 to preferment is also the road to ruin. 
 
 When we reached the seraglio, the sul- 
 tan* was on his return, which is an exact 
 repetition of the ceremony when he goes. 
 My expectations had been considerably 
 raised by an ideal contemplation of the 
 pompous train of an oriental monarch, and, 
 as is generally the case, when the reality 
 was presented to my senses, my disappoint- 
 ment was proportionable : for, after having 
 seen the splendid processions of the other 
 parts of Europe, certainly those of the 
 Turkish emperor are not calculated to 
 produce much surprise. 
 
 Before his arrival, a number of his at- 
 tendants were continually riding in and out 
 of the seraglio, in a disorderly manner. 
 Sometimes twenty or thirty succeeded, 
 two abreast, when the line was abruptly 
 
 * The name of the present emperor is Selim III. 
 He succeeded to the throne of his ancestors on the 
 6th of April 17 89. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 585 
 
 broken off, and quite discontinued for a 
 few minutes, at the expiration of which, 
 it recommenced. The captain of the 
 janizaries, the chief of the eunuchs, and 
 several of the other great officers of state 
 attended. Their horses were richly ca- 
 parisoned, and adorned with gold chains 
 and other rich trappings, some of which 
 were curiously embossed, and studded with 
 precious stones : but their own robes, 
 though costly, being lined with furs of 
 great value, were rather plain than bril- 
 liant. As they passed they were saluted 
 by the janizaries, a rank of whom was 
 stationed on each side. Their manner of 
 salutation is remarkable, and exhibits a 
 disgusting picture of Eastern servitude and 
 humility. They incline their heads to one 
 side, exposing their bare necks, and inti- 
 mating, by this gesture, that their lives are 
 at the entire disposal of these supercihous 
 tyrants. How the character of man shrinks 
 from the dignity which nature meant it to 
 assert in the scale of creation, when it sub- 
 mits to such demonstrations of ductile im- 
 
^86 TRAVELS 
 
 becility and timid baseness ! They were 
 very shabbily clothed, but as they receive 
 hardly any pay from their master, ///<^, 
 poor fellows ! were excusable. The sultan 
 did not appear till near the close of the 
 procession. The turban of state was car- 
 ried before him, and he was surrounded by 
 about thirty pages on foot, who wore caps 
 ornamented with immense plumes of fea- 
 thers, thickly planted, and extended in the 
 the shape of a fan. He is rather a hand- 
 some man, about thirty years of age, and 
 was mounted on a beautiful Arabian 
 steed*. He looked remarkably grave, and 
 noticed nobody. The janizaries repeated 
 their salutation both to the turban and the 
 emperor as they passed. 
 
 * There are no carriages in Constantinople, and 
 the sultan generally goes about the city on horseback. 
 — When he takes a ride a few miles into the country, 
 he is attended by a numerous guard, which is very 
 diligent in keeping the road clear from the intrusion 
 of strangers. His horses are brought from Arabia 
 and the remotest provinces of the empire, and are 
 purchased at a great expence. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 287 
 
 Whilst I was contemplating the fea- 
 tures of this mighty potentate, so far from 
 feeling any emotions of awe and respect, I 
 rather regarded him with an eye of alter- 
 nate commiseration and contempt. And, 
 indeed, although possessed of one of the 
 finest and most extensive countries in the 
 world, his situation is far from being en- 
 viable. Before he was elevated to the 
 throne, he was, in obedience to the uni- 
 form policy of the court, kept a close pri- 
 soner, and never allowed to stir without 
 the walls of the seraglio. Totally unin- 
 formed, and blinded by the imposing arti- 
 fices and servile adulation of his ministers, 
 his life is a constant delusion, and he is the 
 continual sport of craft and corruption. 
 The knowledge of every virtue which can 
 ennoble the heart, or elevate the views, or 
 refine the understanding, of man, is care- 
 fully suppressed, that the hatred of vice 
 may not be imbibed, and that its votaries 
 may not be punished. Unacquainted with 
 the noblest sentiments of our nature, and 
 forbidden the enjoyment of those feelings 
 
288 TRAVELS 
 
 which are founded on mutual confidence 
 and esteem, all his pleasures must flow 
 from a contaminated source. The tyranny 
 that has, previous to his elevation, been 
 exercised by others towards him, awakens 
 continual suspicion, and makes him a ty- 
 rant in his turn. Bribery, corruption, and 
 cruelty, are the fundamental principles of 
 his government, and the dread of his peo- 
 ple is the support and security of his power. 
 Such is the humiliating portrait of a des-r 
 pot's life ! 
 
 The seraglio, which was begun by Ma- 
 homet II. is a vast but inelegant pile of 
 stone buildings, situated on a point of land 
 which runs into the sea, and which is the 
 spot where formerly flourished the city of 
 Bysantium. It is inclosed by high walls, 
 which are said to be nearly three miles in 
 circumference, and is enlivened with gilded 
 spires and turrets, and a multitude of 
 small domes which are rooted with lead. 
 Including the haram, it consists of twelve 
 courts, which have been erected at differ- 
 ent periods, and according to the various 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 580 
 
 tastes of the reigning princes; so that 
 but little attention, if any, has been paid 
 to uniformity, or the common rules of 
 architecture. The apartments are spa- 
 cious and richly furnished, though not 
 in a manner that would correspond with 
 our ideas of taste. They are chiefly or- 
 namented with Turkish inscriptions; apho- 
 risms in Arabic; pictures gaudily and 
 coarsely executed; fountains, marble ba- 
 sons, sofas, baths, and the presents which 
 have been made by the ambassadors from 
 foreign courts, such as mirrours, vases, 
 carpets, and other kinds of household fur- 
 niture. The upper apartments are occu- 
 pied by the women, and have domes with 
 golden crescents, cabinets, balconies, gal- 
 leries, and terraces. 
 
 The gardens, which are reserved for the 
 sultan and his ladies, are of considerable 
 extent, planted with cypresses and other 
 evergreens, and adorned with, parterres of 
 flowers, fountains, alcoves, and chiosks. 
 
 These chiosks, which are very numerous 
 in Turkey, are a kind of pavilion, raised a 
 
 VOL. I. p p 
 
2go 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 few feet from the ground, and open on 
 every side, to admit a free circulation of 
 air. Many of them are fitted up at an 
 enormous expcncc, being paved and in- 
 crusted with the most precious marbles, 
 and embellished with magnificent fountains, 
 painted ceilings, embroidered sofas, and 
 rich carpets. They are generally, when 
 the situation admits of it, erected on the 
 borders of rivers or lakes, and most of the 
 opulent Turks have them in their gardens, 
 where they sleep in the summer time after 
 >dinner, or sit chatting with their women, 
 enjoying their conversation, and the cool- 
 ness of the evening breeze. 
 
 The principal entrance into this re- 
 markable palace is through a large gate, 
 whence the title of the Sublime Porte 
 originates. It is very lofty, and arched at 
 top; and, on each side, are several win- 
 dows intermixed with Arabian inscriptions. 
 About four hundred porters keep guard at 
 the different gates, of whom forty or fifty 
 are stationed at this. These are the minis- 
 ters of vengeance whom the sultan dis- 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 2gi 
 
 patches to his provinces for the heads of 
 those governors, who have disobeyed his 
 orders, or disappointed his expectations. 
 
 Of the twelve courts, strangers are only 
 admitted into the two first, which are 
 subdivided into, the offices for the resi- 
 dence of the menial servants ; an infirmary 
 for the sick, where the most expert phy- 
 sicians and surgeons regularly attend ; the 
 stock of wood for the consumption of the 
 palace ; the kitchens, which form a long 
 range, and have domes with holes in the 
 centre to let out the smoke ; a small stable 
 where those horses are kept which are re- 
 served for the emperor's particular use ; 
 the divan ; the treasury ; and the mint. 
 The second court is better paved, and, in 
 every respect, much handsomer than the 
 first, being laid with turf in the middle, 
 embellished with fountains, and surrounded 
 with a gallery which is supported by 
 pillars of marble. The divan, where the 
 foreign ministers receive their public au- 
 diences, and deliver their credentials and 
 presents, previous to their adrpission to 
 

 TRAVELS 
 
 the sultan, is nothing more than a large 
 hall, lined with wainscoting. Here it is 
 that the grand vizir presides as judge, and 
 determines all civil and criminal causes. 
 He convenes a court four times a week for 
 the dispatch of business, and every subject 
 of the empire, even the meanest, has the 
 privilege of being heard. But, as trials are 
 determined very rapidly ; as little trouble 
 is taken to investigate the truth ; as the 
 testimony of any witness is admitted ; as 
 the rich, in every country, discover their 
 influence ; and as there is no appeal from 
 the decision of the judge ; the innocent 
 and the guilty are frequently confounded 
 together ; and it is but seldom that strict 
 and impartial justice is administered. On 
 points of religion or affairs of conscience, 
 the vizir applies to the mufti, who is al- 
 ways present, and is guided by his advice. 
 In the provincial towns, the cadis are in- 
 vested with nearly a similar extent of juri- 
 dical authority ; but as their integrity is 
 more exposed to the allurements of a bribe, 
 and the effects of prejudice are felt in 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. Zg$ 
 
 greater force, the source of justice is still 
 more corrupt. Neither the religious 
 orders nor the janizaries are amenable to 
 the ordinary courts, but have their own 
 separate tribunals. Our conductor, among 
 other curiosities, pointed out to us the 
 place where the grand vizir's head is gene- 
 rally exposed, after deposition. At this 
 moment that important but perilous office 
 is vacant. The last who filled it was an 
 able and popular man ; but, through the 
 cabals and intrigues of his enemies, he w^as 
 lately dismissed, and another is not yet 
 appointed to succeed him. The almost 
 invariable rule of decollation was waved in 
 his favour, and he has been permitted to 
 retire ; but, being very rich, he is perhaps 
 reserved for a day of future necessity. 
 
 In the irAnt a number of men arc con- 
 stantly employed in manufacturing the va- 
 rious coins of the country, which, accord- 
 ing to the exigencies of the state, are de- 
 based and diminished. At present, their 
 intrinsic value is so small, that, out of 
 Turkey, they will scarcely pass for any 
 
-94 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 thinc^. One part of tli'is office is allotted 
 for the fabrication of ornamental gold and 
 silver for the seraglio, and we were shewn 
 several articles which were nearly finished, 
 and the workmanship of which would not 
 have disgraced a more civilized part of 
 Europe. 
 
 This is all that a stranger is permitted 
 to explore. To penetrate farther, the 
 penalty would be death. 
 
 The internal government of the seraglia 
 is entirely under the management of the 
 chiefs of the black and white eunuchs. 
 The kislar aga, or chief of the black eu- 
 nuchs, is an office of the highest trust and 
 emolument. He has the superintendance 
 of all the royal moschs, and the appoint- 
 ment of the officers attached to their ser- 
 vice. He is purveyor to the pleasures of 
 his master; has an absolute sway in the 
 apartments of the women ; and is the re- 
 sponsible guardian of their honour. The 
 number of these unhappy females is not 
 limited, but depends entirely on the taste 
 or constitution, or caprice, of the reigning 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 ^95 
 
 prince. They are the most beautiful and 
 accomplished women of the empire, being 
 purchased by the grand seignor's agents, 
 or sent to him in presents by the governors 
 of the provinces. They are never allowed 
 to stir without the walls of the seraglio, 
 where most of them waste their bloom 
 in the silence of neglect, or the torments 
 of despair, and where every word, ac- 
 tion, and look, are rigidly watched by the 
 jealous vigilance of their haughty and sul- 
 len keepers. 
 
 The capi aga, or chief of the white 
 eunuchs, also possesses a very extensive au- 
 thority. He commands all the pages of 
 the palace, and superintends the educa- 
 tion of the young men who are brought 
 up in the seraglio. Those, who have a 
 promising appearance, are taught to read 
 the Persian, Arabic, and Turkish lan- 
 guages, and are thoroughly initiated in 
 the mysterious duties of the religion of 
 Mahomet. They are besides instructed 
 ill all the Eastern accomplishments, such 
 as riding on horseback, drawing the bow, 
 
2g6 TRAVELS 
 
 and darting the jlrid, and are frequently 
 advanced from the domestic service of the 
 palace, to the command of armies, and the 
 government of provinces. The strictest 
 attention is paid to their morals. They 
 are severely chastised for the slightest 
 misdemeanor, and arc obliged to pass 
 through a long and perilous noviciate, be- 
 fore they arrive at the honour of waiting 
 on the person of their master. Those who 
 give no proofs of genius, but are endowed 
 with strong and active powers of body, arc 
 reserved for the menial offices of the 
 palace, and make up the list of porters, 
 cooks, butchers, and gardeners. 
 
 Near the outer gate of the seraglio 
 there is a magnificent fountain, which was 
 built by Achmet III. It is a small square 
 building, roofed with lead, and provided 
 with several spouts, and is richly adorned 
 with paint and gilding, and inscriptions in 
 the Turkish and Arabic characters. The 
 fountains, indeed, are very numerous, and 
 yield a constant and abundant supply of 
 water, enabling the Mussulmans to fulfil,. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 297 
 
 without much inconvenience, the daily 
 ablutions which their religion requires. 
 They are all nearly of the same form, and 
 are more or less overloaded with glaring:; 
 ornaments. 
 
 Every sultan, when he dies, has a 
 mausoleum erected to his memory. On 
 our return home, we stopped to see 
 that of the late emperor. His ashes 
 are surrounded by those of his children, 
 who were numerous, and each coffin 
 is covered with embroidered cloth, and 
 splendidly decorated. Lamps and wax 
 tapers are kept constantly burning, and 
 the father's tomb is distinguished from the 
 others, by a turban, which is placed on a 
 cushion at his head. 
 
 The Turks pay great reverence to their 
 dead, and the ceremonies they observe at 
 an interment are very remarkable. When 
 any person dies, the intelligence is imme- 
 diately published by the dreadful hovvlings 
 which are made by the women, belonging 
 to the house. All his relations and friends 
 then assemble, and join in these lamen- 
 tations, after which a mournful dirge is 
 
 VOL. I. Q Q 
 
ZC)S ' THAYELS 
 
 suns; to his praise, and a solemn pva}'cr 
 offered up tor his future happiness. Some- 
 times, these pitiful strains last for two or 
 three days, and those who are not disposed 
 to express, for so long a time, such violent 
 symptoms of grief, hire people for the oc- 
 casion. The deceased is then conveyed on 
 a bier to the place of interment, and, if he 
 be a man of consequence, he is attended 
 by a numerous and pompous train of horses, 
 slaves, and domestics*. On his arrival, he 
 is enveloped with a sheet, which is left 
 ODcn at the head and feet ; and boards 
 are placed over his body that the soil may 
 lie lightly on him. When his remains 
 are deposited in the earth, the bowlings 
 are renewed ; incense is burnt to chase 
 away evil spirits ; and cypresses are planted 
 at each end of the grave, which, whilst 
 
 * In the houses of the great, the domestics are 
 numerous, as a separate office is allotted to each ; for 
 example, one brings the coffee, another the pipe, a 
 third, the conserves, and so on : so that for every 
 want of the master, however trivial, an additional 
 servant is maintained. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. ^99 
 
 young and tender, are cultivated with great 
 care by his relations, who are, in general, 
 very desirous that they should thrive. It 
 is imagined that the defunct, shortly after 
 his interment, undergoes a severe exami- 
 nation by incorporeal judges, and that, ac- 
 cording to the life he has led, he is tor- 
 mented by the agents of hell, or comforted 
 by the ministers of heaven, who reveal to 
 his enraptured sight, the hanging gardens, 
 delicious fruits, resplendent fountains, and 
 beautiful damsels, which will be his reward, 
 on his entrance into paradise. 
 
 As the Turks never destroy any monu- 
 ments, or bury twice in the same spot, the 
 ground about Constantinople, which is 
 consecrated to this solemn purpose, occu- 
 pies an immense space. Their burying- 
 places are always situated near the high- 
 ways, that they may excite the attention 
 and compassion of passengers, and induce 
 them to pray for the peace and felicity of 
 the departed spirits ; and the cypresses, 
 with which they are planted, give them a 
 '\cry gloomy and awful appearance. The 
 
50a TRAN ELS 
 
 monuments consist of two large stones, 
 which arc raised at the head and foot of 
 the grave, and many of them are of fine 
 marble, ornamented with inscriptions in 
 letters of gold, and white or green turbans 
 or bonnets. Some few, which are erected 
 to the memory of persons of eminent rank, 
 are extremely costly, and enclosed with an 
 iron rail which is painted green. But they 
 seem to groan under the weight of their 
 decorations, and are totally devoid of taste. 
 Those of the w^omen are not allowed such 
 fastidious distinctions. 
 
 One day, as I was walking about the 
 city, I had an opportunity of observing 
 the devout attention which the Mussul- 
 mans pay to the funeral rites of their 
 countrymen. 1 met six people, carrying 
 a man, who, but a few hours before, had 
 died of the plague. When they were 
 fatigued, they put down the bier in the 
 middle of the street, and, shortly after, as 
 many others took it up. This ceremony 
 was repeated by the nearest spectators, 
 till it was conveyed to the place of inter- 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 301 
 
 merit, it being one of the most sacred 
 duties of their rehgion, never to refuse 
 their assistance on this awful occasion. 
 A priest marched solemnly before, and 
 chanted aloud, as he led the way. 
 
 The castle of the Seven Towers is 
 situated on that angle of the city which 
 borders on the sea of Marmara. It is 
 built in the form of a pentagon, and the 
 roof is covered with lead. The treasure 
 of the grand seignor was formerly de- 
 posited in this fortress, but it has since 
 been converted into a state prison, to which 
 the foreign ambassadors are sent, whenever 
 their masters declare war against the 
 Porte. The sultan considers himself so 
 superior to every other potentate, that he 
 scorns to respect those rights and privi- 
 leges which are so rigidly enforced in 
 christian countries, in favour of the re- 
 presentatives of crowned heads *. 
 
 * The last foreign minister, that was imprisoned 
 there, was the Russian envoy in 178 1, previous to the 
 commencement of hostilities. 
 
3©^ TRAVELS 
 
 At a short distance from the Hippo- 
 drome, there is a large subterraneous 
 building, which is arched, and supported 
 by upwards of two hundred bulky marble 
 pillars. At present it is occupied by silk 
 spinners ; but was formerly a reservoir for 
 water, which, in case of fire, furnished the 
 city with an immediate supply. If it were 
 still reserved for its original purpose it 
 would not be amiss, for the ravages of this 
 devouring element are very frequently and 
 very severely felt. From this place we 
 went to see the emperor's wild beasts, 
 which are kept in an old tower close by ; 
 but we found no very curious or rare ani- 
 mals, and most of the capital cities of 
 Europe can boast of a better collection. 
 
 Several of the bans at Constantinople 
 are magnificent buildings, of a square 
 form, and so spacious that they are ca- 
 pable of accommodating two or three 
 hundred people. The monasteries, though 
 pretty numerous, are not to be remarked 
 for their elegance. They, however, in 
 general, possess the most eligible situations. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 303 
 
 which is the case, I think, in every country 
 where ecclesiastics have been encouraged 
 to display their taste. The markets are 
 extensive, and well supplied, particularly 
 with game, poultry, fish, and vegetables. 
 The baths are very numerous ; but we 
 look in vain for the marbles and statues of 
 the ancients ; nor are any of them, at pre- 
 sent, either for space or decoration, com- 
 parable to those near Brusa. The coffee- 
 houses are without number. Most of 
 them are curiously painted, and, in form, 
 have a near similitude to the buildings of 
 the Chinese. Here the Turks assemble, 
 not as we do, to read newspapers, to talk 
 politics, or to conduct mercantile affairs, 
 but to doze away their time over tobacco 
 and coffee, which they consume in astonish- 
 ing quantities. 
 
 Galata and Pera are the two principal 
 suburbs of Constantinople, and, separately 
 taken, would each form a respectable city. 
 There is another small suburb, called 
 Topana, beyond which, the Turks have an 
 arsenal, and a foundery for cannon. 
 
 Galata stands on a rising ground, and 
 
^04 TRAVELS 
 
 is defended by a wall, which was erected 
 by the Genoese, who, for above a century, 
 were its acknowledged masters. It forms 
 the entrance of the harbour from the 
 north, and, on account of the conveni- 
 ence of its situation, most of the Eu- 
 ropean merchants have compting-houses 
 and magazines in this quarter. To pro- 
 tect them, also, in some measure, from 
 the dreadful havock which the fires oc- 
 casion, many of them have fire-proof 
 warehouses*, w^here they store their most 
 valuable merchandize ; for the Turks, being 
 fatalists, disdain to introduce into their 
 country the inventions of more enlightened 
 nations, and have never yet been prevailed 
 upon to provide themselves with fire-en- 
 gines. The tower, which is built on a 
 lofty hill, exceeds one hundred and forty 
 feet in height. The quays are extensive, 
 and are planted with artillery, which, to the 
 great amusement of the people, is discharged 
 
 * The European merchants at Smyrna have also 
 warehouses buih on a similar construction, which. 
 in Tvirkish cities, are the only security against fire, 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 30^ 
 
 on days of festivity. Some of the guns are 
 of an enormous caliber, but they are all 
 without carriages. 
 
 From Galata there is a considerable 
 ascent to Pera, which stands in a delight- 
 ful situation, commanding a view of Con- 
 stantinople, the seraglio, the harbour, and 
 the distant hills of Asia. It is the resi- 
 dence of all the ambassadors and foreign 
 ministers, w^hose houses, after the Eastern 
 manner, are styled palaces. Most of the 
 opulent merchants have also their dwel- 
 ling-houses here, for it is by far the most 
 agreeable place to live in, the streets being 
 wider and more scattered, and the air con- 
 sequently purer, than either at Constanti- 
 nople or Galata. 
 
 We were so desirous of seeing the prin- 
 cipal bazar, that we overcame our dread 
 of the plague, and one morning crossed 
 over to Constantinople for that express 
 purpose. It is a large square structure, 
 neatly paved with flat stones, and covered 
 with domes, which are sustained by arches 
 and pilasters. Merchants are drawn from 
 
 VOL. I, R » 
 
306 TRAVELS 
 
 the most distant parts of the empire to 
 make purchases at this grand repository, 
 which is also the receptacle of half the 
 idle people of the city, who keep saunter- 
 ing about for hours, drinking coffee and 
 sherbet, and examining and cheapening 
 goods. The shops, which are placed in 
 front of the warehouses, are furnished 
 with all kinds of merchandize, are kept 
 very clean, and most of them are orna- 
 mented with gilding and paint. Each 
 distinct trade is carried on in a separate 
 quarter, and the jewellers, embroiderers, 
 and cutlers, make a splendid appear- 
 ance. The arts, in their present state, 
 nearly correspond with the descriptions 
 that have been given of them centuries 
 ago. They evince, no spirit of emulation, 
 no desire of improvement, no love of 
 noveltv. ]{ a Turk can imitate what has 
 been performed by his predecessor, he is 
 perfectly satisfied with his exertions, and 
 attempts nothing further. Thus they 
 never vary their utensils, their machinery, 
 or their patterns ; but, pursuing the road 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 S^7 
 
 which was opened to them by their ances- 
 tors, they copy, with the same servihty, 
 their discoveries and their defects. 
 
 The slave market, which is at a small 
 distance from this bazar, we did not ven- 
 ture to enter, but I am told that it ex- 
 hibits a curious scene. The Jews carry 
 on this unfeeling and infamous traffic, 
 and bring the women from Greece, Can- 
 dia, Mingrilia, Georgia, Circassia*, and 
 still more remote provinces. A multi- 
 tude of females, of various ages and de- 
 scriptions, are in constant attendance at 
 this grand emporium of legal prostitution, 
 expecting every day to be transferred into 
 other hands. Those, on whom nature has 
 lavished her bounties, fetch considerable 
 sums of money ; but those, who are desti- 
 tute of personal attractions, are sold at a 
 very low rate, and are destined to fill the 
 vilest domestic offices. Before a bargain 
 
 * From Mingrilia, Georgia, and Circassia, alone 
 (which constituted the ancient kingdom of Colcho?) 
 npwards of fifteen thousand slaves are exported an- 
 nually. 
 
308 TRAVELS 
 
 is struck, they arc obliged to display 
 all the accompUshments they have ac- 
 quired, and to submit to an examination 
 of their charms which is altogether offen- 
 sive to modesty. What can beauty ex- 
 pect, when it is thus degradingly bartered 
 for gold, but lasting and consummate 
 misery and contempt ? Even those, who 
 are purchased for the seraglio, have not 
 much cause to rejoice at their fortune ; for 
 although some few of them may be dis- 
 tinguished by the caresses of the sultan, 
 the greater part is suffered to wither in 
 neglect, and, when their master dies, they 
 are removed to the old seraglio, where 
 they linger out the remainder of life in 
 hopeless solitude and despair. If they have 
 children, at the accession of a new prince, 
 they are generally destined to weep over 
 their premature death, it being the jealous 
 and detestable policy of the Ottoman court 
 to banish all dread of competition by the 
 fatal application of the bow-string. 
 
 The most beautiful girls are not, how- 
 ever, to be procured at the public market ; 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 309 
 
 but are kept in the private houses of the 
 Jews, where they are educated at a great 
 expence, being taught to embroider, to 
 dance, to sing, and to play on divers musi- 
 cal instruments ; and where they are sedu- 
 lously initiated in the practice of all the 
 arts and allurements, which the warmth of 
 imagination can conceive, or the tender- 
 ness of passion inspire. 
 
 Besides the slaves who fill the harams of 
 the men, most of the Turkish ladies of 
 distinction maintain a numerous retinue 
 of these unfortunate females. No expence 
 is spared on their dress or education. Their 
 chief business is to attend at the toilette of 
 their mistress, to adjust or change her 
 attire, or to endeavour to beguile the 
 hours away, by singing and dancing, or 
 playing on the lute or guitar. Their 
 dances, which are highly voluptuous, re- 
 semble the Spanish fandango. They use 
 the castanets, and throw themselves into 
 an endless variety of languishing and m- 
 decent attitudes, which create ideas they 
 
310 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 can never realize, and provoke appetite^ 
 they can never enjo/ 
 
 The Turks arc extremely jealous of 
 their women, so that temales of condition 
 are seldom to be seen in the streets. 
 When, however, they do go abroad, they 
 are obliged to wear a veil and a loose robe, 
 which effectually conceal both their faces 
 and persons. At home their dresses are 
 surprisingly gorgeous and expensive, and 
 those, belonging to the great, squander im- 
 mense sums of money in the articles of 
 embroidery and jewels. Their turbans 
 and girdles are bespangled with diamonds 
 and other precious stones, and their hair is 
 not unfrequently braided with pearls. One 
 of the most important occupations of their 
 indolent lives is to deck out their persons 
 to the best advantage; and they indulge;, 
 without restraint, in the boundless caprices 
 of fancy and taste. They shape their brows, 
 paint their cheeks, stain the tips of their 
 fingers red, and pencil a black mark round 
 their eyes, which they imagine adds to 
 their brilliancy and expression. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 3^1 
 
 A Turk may legally possess four wives ; 
 a law of the most pernicious and ini- 
 quitous nature, as it excludes the poor 
 from the possession of women, and, by 
 an improper division of the sexes, bursts 
 asunder every bond of morality, and en- 
 genders every species of odious and un- 
 natural vice. Their marriages are at- 
 tended w4th a surprising degree of pomp 
 and ceremony. The parties, however, 
 never see each other till every thing is 
 finally adjusted, when the bride, amidst 
 the rejoicings of her relations and friends, 
 is conveyed on horseback to her husband's 
 house. He provides the doyvry, and, in 
 case of repudiation, unless he can assi2;n 
 a reasonable cause, is obliged to continue 
 the payment of her settlement; nor can 
 he reclaim her, should his affection return, 
 till she has passed a night w^th another 
 man. 
 
 The Turks consider their women as an 
 inferior race of beings, and proudly imagine 
 that they are sent into the world merely 
 for the purposes of propagation and do- 
 
»I2 TRAVELS 
 
 mcstlc superintendence. If they fulfil 
 these duties, the law of Mahomet does not 
 exclude them from the rewards of a future 
 state ; although their paradise is separate, 
 and subordinate to that of the men : but 
 if they unfortunately die unmarried, they 
 die in a state of irremediable reprobation. 
 They are reported to be tender and affec- 
 tionate in their nature ; but tyrannical 
 confinement and seclusion will frequently 
 create bad propensities, and pervert the 
 best dispositions. At Constantinople, in- 
 trigues are carried on to a scandalous ex- 
 tent, and the Jews and Jewesses, who, in 
 every country, are ready to undertake any 
 thing for money, appoint the places of 
 assignation ; w^atch the most commodious 
 opportunities ; carry messages ; and assist in 
 disguising the parties. If, however, the 
 husband is vigilant or active enough to 
 catch his wife with her paramour, he sel- 
 dom waits the decision of a court of law, 
 but instantly sacrifices the delinquents to 
 his revenge. Nor does the government 
 deign to notice these atrocious acts of 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 313 
 
 barbarity. As in the feudal times with 
 us, the punishment is left in the hands of 
 the relations of the deceased, who, accord- 
 ing to their disposition, seek redress by reta- 
 liation, or compound for the murder by en- 
 forcing the payment of a pecuniary fine. 
 
 I had almost forgotten to mention that 
 on our return from the bazar, we were 
 obliged to take ofF our coats, and to have 
 them exposed, for a few hours, in the 
 open air, to purify them from any infec- 
 tion which might have adhered to them. 
 At Smyrna, where they are much more 
 apprehensive of the plague, under similar 
 circumstances, we should at least have 
 undergone the ceremony of fumigation ; 
 but, at Constantinople*, where it is sel- 
 dom quite extinct, it does not so readily 
 excite alarm. 
 
 * The first plague that visited Constantinople 
 happened during the reign of Justinian. It travelled 
 westward from Pelusium, where it first broke out, 
 over the whole continent of Europe, and raged for 
 fifty-two years, in which time it nearly half depo- 
 pulated that portion of the globe. See Procopius. 
 
 VOL. I. S S 
 
nj^ TRAVELS 
 
 The country seats belonging to the 
 emperor are chiefly on the banks of the 
 canal, at a small distance from the city ; 
 but are by no means splendid edifices. 
 He has a kiosk, supported by marble pil- 
 lars, which looks immediately on the 
 harbour, and, from which, when he goes 
 a pleasuring on the canal, he gene- 
 rally embarks. He is fond of water ex- 
 peditions, and often makes excursions in 
 his barges, some of which are fitted up 
 with sumptuous magnificence, and are 
 rowed by an hundred men, who are amaz- 
 ingly expert in the management of their 
 oars, and move together with the nicest 
 exactness. At present he is building a 
 state barge, which is nearly finished, and 
 most richly and profusely fitted up with 
 every article of convenience, embellish- 
 ment, and splendour. 
 
 From the elegance of the boats and 
 barges, one would expect to find some 
 taste displayed in the construction of the 
 gl^ips of war ; but they are, for the most 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 315 
 
 part, so awkward in shape, and so over- 
 loaded with gilding, carving, and painting, 
 that they have a very unwieldy and heavy 
 appearance. Notwithstanding the strength 
 and size of these vessels, the Turkish sail- 
 ors are so inexpert, and so thoroughly un- 
 acquainted with naval tactics, that, in en- 
 gagements with any of the other powers of 
 Europe, they are uniformly beaten, if the 
 force is in any shape on an equality, and 
 not unfrequently, when it is greatly in- 
 ferior. I dined a few days ago in com- 
 pany with an English officer, v.ho, du- 
 ring the late war with Russia, had served 
 on board the Turkish fleet, and had been 
 HI an action. He gave a miserable ac- 
 count of the Turks as seamen, and said, 
 that they were destitute of every good 
 quality ; that they observed no discipline ; 
 and possessed neither courage, activity, 
 nor skill. 
 
 The police of Constantinople, which is 
 under the direction of the governor or 
 mayor, is, in many respects, extremely 
 well regulated. The price of provisions 
 
3I6 TRAVELS 
 
 is fixed according to the plenty or scarcity 
 of the different commodities, and there 
 are officers, in constant attendance, to 
 examine the weights and measures, and 
 to see that every purchaser receives his 
 due. If they detect any one committing 
 a fraud, he is instantly delivered over to 
 the magistrate of the parish, and basti- 
 nadoed or severely fined. Fraudulent bakers 
 are nailed by the car to the doors of their 
 own shops, and convicted liars are burnt 
 with an iron on the forehead ; a whole- 
 some regulation if it were always impar- 
 tially administered, as a regard for truth 
 is one of the firmest supports of society. 
 The shops throughout the year are opened 
 at the rising, and shut at the setting, of 
 the sun ; and a strong patrol parades the 
 streets every night, to take up disorderly 
 people, and preserve the peace and security 
 of the inhabitants. 
 
 Though there are many delightful spots 
 near Constantinople, the country does not, 
 on the whole, please me so much as the 
 environs of Smyrna. Belgrade and Bu- 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 317 
 
 jukdere are the two prettiest villages in 
 the neighbourhood, and are the places 
 where the Franks chiefly reside during the 
 summer season. The former is situated in 
 the middle of a beautiful wood, which is 
 refreshed by several currents of limpid wa- 
 ter, and is, in my opinion, much to be 
 preferred: the latter commands a fine 
 view of the canal, on whose borders it 
 stands. In our way to Belgrade, we passed 
 through some rich and extensive mea- 
 dows, where the grand seignor's horses, 
 which are very numerous, are kept at this 
 time of the year. They were all fastened 
 to the ground by a tether, and a great 
 many tents were pitched for the accommo- 
 dation of those who had the care of them, 
 and which, from being intermixed with 
 such a crowd of horses, produced a very 
 pleasing effect. 
 
 By deviating a little from the direct road, 
 we had an opportunity of seeing an aque- 
 duct, w^hich was erected by Justinian, and 
 which, although not comparable to that 
 near Nismes, is by no means an inconsider- 
 
3l8 TRAVELS 
 
 able structure. A degeneracy of taste is, 
 however, immediately perceptible, which 
 hitbrms you that it is not a production of 
 the Augustan age. It consists of two 
 bridges, one built upon the other, and each 
 supported by four noble arches, the effect 
 of which is much diminished by several 
 very diminutive ones, that are crowded 
 into the intermediate spaces. The cones, 
 which are erected against the sides to 
 strengthen them, are all reversed, and have 
 a singular appearance. This aqueduct was 
 raised to conduct water to the metropolis 
 (where few springs are to be found) and it 
 still serves for that purpose. We had not 
 proceeded much farther, when we came in 
 view of three Turkish aqueducts, which, 
 though evidently built in imitation of the 
 one already mentioned, from the preva- 
 lence of Turkish ideas, are clumsy and 
 grotesque specimens of masonry. In the 
 wood of Belgrade, there is an immense 
 bason, which supplies them with water. 
 
 We dined at Mr. Tooke's at Belgrade, 
 where we spent a most agreeable day, and 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 3I9 
 
 in the evening we took a walk into the 
 wood, which is an enchanting spot. It is 
 of considerable extent, and is planted 
 chiefly with birch, and fruit trees, which 
 form a thick shade, and a delightful re- 
 treat from the scorching rays of the sum- 
 mer and autumnal sun. The turf, which 
 is of the brightest verdure, is refreshed by 
 several noble sheets of limpid water; and 
 the sky, for months, is so tranquil and 
 transparent that not a vapour is to be 
 seen. The most refreshing breezes are 
 wafted from the Black Sea, which mo- 
 derate the heat of the atmosphere ; and 
 parties of Greeks frequently assemble in 
 the evening, and pass a few hours in the 
 cheering and rational amusements of 
 music, dance, and song. Scenes like these 
 are so demonstrative of happiness, that 
 they always speak with effect to the heart ; 
 and the innocent gaiety of an artless pea- 
 santry is, perhaps, that particular cast of 
 disposition which conveys to the mind, 
 more forcibly than any thing else, an ide.^ 
 of perfect enjoyment. 
 
3-0 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 On our return home, we passed through 
 Bujukdcre, and entered Pera by night. 
 The moschs, which, on account of the 
 Ramazan, were all illuminated, made a 
 very grand and brilliant appearance ; but 
 what most surprised me, was the astonish- 
 ing number of dogs which we found \y\ng 
 in every part of the streets, and which 
 had already taken up their lodging for the 
 night. It was with the greatest difficulty 
 \\Q could prevent our horses from treading 
 on them, for they were so lazy, that the 
 imminent danger which threatened them 
 did not, in the least, rouse them from their 
 lethargy. They are of a large breed, and 
 are at times so savage, that it is dangerous 
 to walk in the streets after the evening has 
 closed in. On our journey from Smyrna, 
 we had been very much annoyed by these 
 animals. In the villages, particularly, they 
 swarmed to such a degree, and were so 
 troublesome, that as soon as we came in 
 sight of the houses, we generally deemed 
 it adviseable to descend from our horses, 
 and fill our pockets with stones, which 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. ^21 
 
 we employed as defensive weapons. One 
 morning, I recollect, I was a good deal di- 
 verted with an incident that occurred, as 
 we were entering one of these villages. A 
 strange dog, with an abundance of 
 strength in his limbs, and of fierceness 
 in his countenance, made a most violent 
 and unprovoked attack on a cur belong- 
 ing to one of our guides, and which was 
 bv no means his match. This so enraged 
 his master, that he, in an instant, sprang 
 from his horse, and with his drawn sabre 
 pursued the wretched animal for two or 
 three hundred yards. The dog, however, 
 had so much the advantage in point of 
 fleetness, that the indignant Turk was at 
 length obliged to abandon the pursuit, and 
 to satisfy himself with the desire he had 
 shewn of revenging the injury. 
 
 Constantinople, considering its popu- 
 lousness and situation, is not a place of 
 very extensive commerce. The principal 
 articles of importation from Great Britain, 
 are shalloons, cloths, tin, and watches, for 
 which they send, in return, silk and drugs. 
 
 VOL. I. T T 
 
S^i TRAVELS 
 
 But the facilities of trade must necessarily 
 be very much cramped from the numerous 
 heavy restraints and difficulties under 
 which it labours, and which chiefly arise 
 out of the very nature aud defects of the 
 government. The commerce of Turkey 
 is, indeed, in many respects, in an infant 
 state, and as long as men are fearful of dis- 
 covering their wealth, that powerful in- 
 fluence of confidence and credit* which 
 wealth, particularly in commercial con- 
 
 * The Franks, indeed, sell particular goods to the 
 Turks on credit; but these transactions are on a very 
 different scale from those which take place in their 
 own countries. Watches and pistols, which are 
 generally purchased by the immediate consumers, 
 are paid for in ready money; but tin, lead, sugar, 
 and coffee, which are called ready money articles, are 
 not paid for before the expiration of three months j 
 and the payments for shalloons and muslins, which 
 are usually sold on a credit of six months, are sel- 
 dom completed in less than twelve. The Turks 
 neither give nor require receits, nor are they bound, 
 by any written engagement, for any sums they may 
 owe. You are entirely dependent on their honour, 
 which, however, in this respect, they do not often 
 violate. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 323 
 
 cerns, is calculated to command, cannot 
 be expected to exist. Thus the Turks are 
 obliged to trade chiefly on capital. The 
 negotiation of bills, and the system of 
 banking, which, however ruinous they 
 may be when pushed too far, have cer- 
 tainly enabled the merchants of Europe to 
 engage in undertakings, that, without their 
 aid, could never have been attempted, are 
 in Turkey totally unknown. 
 
 Limited, however, as the commerce is, by 
 being confined to a few hands, many of the 
 European merchants established here, have 
 acquired ample fortunes, and live in con- 
 siderable splendour. Their houses are sub- 
 stantially built, and fitted up with ele- 
 gance, convenience, and taste. 
 
 The society is on a larger scale than 
 that of Smyrna, but not so agreeable, on 
 account of the tribe of foreign ministers, 
 who distinguish themselves by a great deal 
 of ridiculous parade, and insist on a degree 
 of ceremony which destroys the freedom, 
 and consequently the real enjoyment, ot 
 social engasiements. Thev live at a ereat 
 
224 TRAVELS 
 
 expence, keep sumptuous tables and splen- 
 did equipages, and never stir out without 
 guards and a numerous train of attendants 
 and servants. When they visit each other 
 they are punctiliously scrupulous in observ- 
 ing the forms which have been established 
 to distinguish their different degrees of 
 rank and precedency, and according to the 
 number of times a bell tolls, it announces 
 an ambassador, an envoy, or a charge 
 d'affaires. With the Turks, who are ex- 
 tremely fond of external show, it is per- 
 haps proper that these ceremonies should 
 be observed. They have an imposing ap- 
 })carance, and bespeak a consequence which 
 has no real existence ; but civilized people 
 easily see through all this mummery, and, 
 except on particular occasions, it would 
 surely be much more rational to omit it. 
 
 It is but seldom you meet with a fire- 
 place in the houses in Turkey, and the 
 Franks have pretty generally adopted the 
 Turkish fashion of heating their rooms. 
 They make use of a contrivance called a 
 terichnr, which is nothing more than a 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. ^2$ 
 
 square table, large enough to accommodate 
 eight or ten people. A pan of lighted 
 charcoal is placed under it, and it is co- 
 vered with a fine carpet, or some rich stuff, 
 which, when pendent, is long enough to 
 reach the ground, and consequently pre- 
 vents a great portion of the heat from 
 escaping. Those who are desirous of 
 warming themselves, approach this table, 
 and, lolling on a sofa, with which it is 
 generally surrounded, pull the covering 
 over their shoulders, and exhibit no inac- 
 curate picture of Asiatic indolence. These 
 machines are, however, by no means plea- 
 sant. They are also attended with much 
 danger, and are frequently the occasion of 
 fire in the Turkish houses. 
 
 The day before yesterday we dined at 
 Sir Robert Ainslie's*, and, in the evening, 
 accompanied him to count Potoski's, the 
 Polish ambassador's, where a grand festival 
 was given in honour of his sovereign's 
 
 * This gentleman was then ambassador at Con- 
 stantinople from our Court. 
 
^Z6 TRAVELS 
 
 birth- day. The count and his suite were 
 richly dressed in the habit of their country, 
 and the walls of the principal room were 
 decorated with wreaths of flowers, twined 
 round mottos which were suitable to the 
 occasion. All the foreign ministers and 
 their ladies, and the best company of 
 Constantinople, were invited, and made 
 altogether a numerous and elegant assem- 
 blage. The entertainment began with a 
 concert of instrumental music, after which 
 the company sat down to a sumptuous, 
 supper, and after the supper there was a 
 ball. This nobleman, who is nearly re- 
 lated to the king, in addition to his pri- 
 vate fortune, which is very considerable, 
 receives from the Porte, as Polish am-., 
 bassador, five hundred piasters a day ; so 
 that he can well afford to live in splen- 
 dour*. 
 
 * It Is remarkable, that two-thirds of the salary of 
 our ambassador arc paid by the Turkey Company, 
 which is a very heavy tax on their funds. The re ■ 
 gular annual disbursement is 2000 1. besides other 
 adventitious expences, which are frequently consider- 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 327 
 
 In Constantinople, a Frank, unless he 
 be the aggressor, is not often seriously in- 
 sulted. This, however, sometimes hap- 
 pens, and the best security is a janizary, 
 who is considered by the populace with a 
 certain degree of respect, and is generally 
 found a faithful and zealous servant. Still, 
 w^hen any abusive language is used, the 
 most prudent way is not to notice it ; for, if 
 a quarrel ensue, which ever party is in the 
 wrong, the Turks, like other nations, will 
 always support their countrymen. Since 
 the last war, in which they were thoroughly 
 convinced of their own weakness and de- 
 generacy, and of the superiority of their 
 adversaries, both in deeds of prowess and 
 
 able.— At the appointment of Mr. Liston, the late 
 ambassador, the outfits and presents amounted to up- 
 wards of 2200I.— The salary, however, is not ade- 
 quate to the station, and prevents our minister from 
 living on an equaUty with the other members of the 
 diplomatic corps, and from maintaining that dignity 
 which is suitable to his rank, as the representative of 
 the British empire. 
 
328 TRAVELS 
 
 skill, the Russians are more respected, or 
 rather more dreaded, than any other Chris- 
 tian nation. 
 
 It is an occupation, both curious and 
 amusing, to observe the versatility of the 
 public mind; to attend to its rapid changes; 
 and to watch how it is successively roused 
 to energy, or depressed to inaction, by the 
 chequered events of war. But the Turks 
 will, perhaps, never recover from their 
 present panic. The severe chastisement 
 which they received at the hands of their 
 northern neighbours, has left an impression, 
 possibly, as durable as their name, among 
 the list of independent states. 
 
 In Turkey, I observe, the Italian Ian-? 
 guage prevails much more generally than 
 the French, whether from its being ac- 
 quired with greater facility, or from the 
 long and intimate intercourse of its inha- 
 bitants with many of the Italian states, I 
 cannot pretend to say. The Armenians, 
 Jews, and others, who act as brokers, and 
 transact business either for themselves or 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 329 
 
 for the European merchants, established 
 in different parts of the empire, all con- 
 verse fluently in Italian, whereas but few 
 of them are at all acquainted with French. 
 As a matter of taste (by which, however, 
 we cannot suppose them to be governed) 
 I think the Italian language is infinitely 
 to be preferred to the French. It is more 
 energetic, more musical, and has such 
 a copious range of words, that it is equally 
 calculated for poetry or prose, for the 
 premeditated compositions of rhetoric, or 
 the familiar effusions of conversation. It 
 is a language, also, which well rewards 
 the labour of cultivation, as it can boast 
 of many of the most elevated productions 
 of the human mind. 
 
 I cannot conclude this letter, without 
 informing you of the kindness and hos- 
 pitality of Mr. Tooke, a British merchant, 
 settled here, w^ho, when we delivered 
 our letters to him, insisted that we 
 should remain at his house, and, by 
 his polite and affable behaviour, has 
 
 VOL. I. U U 
 
5 20 TRAVELS 
 
 SO entirely removed all restraint, that 
 we already begin to consider ourselves at 
 home. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 331 
 
 LETTER XVI. 
 
 Galatz, May 24, 1 792. 
 
 When I last wrote to you, I neg- 
 lected to mention Scutari, a considerable 
 town, in a delightful situation, on the Asian 
 side of the canal, immediately opposite 
 to Constantinople, and which many, though 
 with no great propriety, consider as one 
 of the suburbs of that metropolis. It is 
 the only city which is at present on the 
 eastern banks of the Bosphorus, and is the 
 ancient Chrysopolis, near which that de^ 
 sperate battle was fought between Con- 
 stantine and Licinius*, which secured to 
 the former the undivided possession of the 
 Roman world, and terminated those ob- 
 
 * Licinius was made prisoner at Chrysopolisj 
 and carried thence to Thessalonica, where he wa^ 
 beheaded. 
 
233 TRAVELS 
 
 stinate struggles that lasted for so many- 
 years, and depopulated the fairest portions 
 of the globe. This place, which is the 
 principal rendezvous of the merchants 
 from Armenia and Persia, carries on an 
 extensive trade ; and the government, being 
 an office of high importance, is intrusted 
 to a pacha, who receives his appointment 
 immediately from the grand seignor. At 
 no great distance from this spot once 
 flourished the ancient Chalcedon, which, 
 as you will recollect, was stigmatized with 
 the appellation of the hlhid, on account of 
 the stupidity of its founders, the Megarians, 
 in the choice of their situation. 
 
 On the I oth of May we quitted Con- 
 stantinople, and, that we might have a 
 finer view^ of the canal, we went in a boat 
 to Bujukdere. 
 
 This canal is the ancient Thracian Bos- 
 phorus, so famous in history, through 
 w^hich the waters of the Euxine inces- 
 L-antly flow into the sea of Marmara, 
 and, after continuing their course through 
 the Hellespont, finally disembogue them- 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. ^^^ 
 
 selves into the Mediterranean. It abounds 
 in a variety of currents, among w^hich 
 there is one that, on account of its singu- 
 larity, merits particular notice. Beneath 
 the stream which descends tow^ards the 
 sea of Marmara, there is, at a certain 
 depth, a current which flows in a contrary 
 direction, mounting from the point of the 
 seraglio to the castles. This fact is clearly 
 ascertained by the fishermen, who, when 
 they drop their nets, find them, for several 
 fathoms below the surface, carried down 
 the canal, from north to south ; but, if 
 they continue to let them sink, the lower 
 part evidently curves the contrary way, 
 and is borne against the upper stream. 
 This is an ancient discovery, but no satis- 
 factory reason, as to the cause, has hitherto 
 been assigned *. 
 
 This celebrated strait which separates 
 the two continents of Europe and Asia, 
 reckoning from the harbour of Constan- 
 tinople to the Cyanean rocks, extends 
 
 * See Tournefort, vol. ii. page 4oi. 
 
334 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 about sixteen miles in length ; and its or- 
 dinary breadth does not exceed above a 
 mile and a half. In one spot, indeed, the 
 opposite shores approach within five hun- 
 dred paces of each other, which, when the 
 wind is northerly, occasions the water to 
 flow with wonderful rapidity. The old 
 castles, which are planted with immense 
 pieces of artillery, command this part of 
 the canal, and here it was that Darius con- 
 nected the two continents by a bridge of 
 boats. These castles, whose walls are of 
 an astonishing thickness, were originally 
 erected by the Greek emperors, and were 
 repaired and strengthened by Mahomet the 
 second, preparatory to his siege of Con- 
 stantinople. The new castles, which were 
 built, by order of Mahomet the fourth, to 
 check the incursions of the Muscovites and 
 Cossac Tartars, secure the northern en- 
 trance of the strait. They stand on two 
 opposite capes, one in Europe, the other in 
 Asia, and repose on the ruins of the two 
 celebrated temples of Serapis and Jupiter 
 Urius. The curvature of the canal is 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 3S5 
 
 sometimes very considerable, and its banks, 
 particularly on the European side, are 
 lined, almost the whole way, with villages, 
 fortresses, country seats, and chiosks. In 
 some parts, the coast is steep and rugged, 
 full of projecting rocks and deep caverns, 
 which present a wild and romantic ap- 
 pearance : in other parts, every landscape 
 is softened by the hand of art, and nothing 
 is to be seen but verdant sloping mea- 
 dows, rural cottages, and groves of fruit 
 trees. The most enchanting and inte- 
 resting views are continually inviting the 
 eye. The anchorage is excellent ; and the 
 water, which abounds in a variety of de- 
 licious fish, is deep, and clear as crystal. 
 
 Between Constantinople and Scutari, 
 some ruins are seen which are known 
 by the appellation of Leander's tower. This 
 building is said to have been raised to the 
 memory of the untimely fate of that ad- 
 venturous youth. But those who thus 
 named it were probably unacquainted 
 with the story, or had forgotten that it 
 
^^6 TRAVELS 
 
 was across the Hellespont * Leander used 
 to swim, when he paid his nocturnal visits 
 to the beautiful Hero. The fact is, it was 
 erected by the emperor Manuel, and is 
 supposed to have corresponded with ano- 
 ther tower, from which chains were for- 
 merly extended to the coasts, to block up, 
 in cases of emergency, the passage of the 
 canal. The distance between the oppo- 
 site shores, in this part, does not exceed 
 five hundred paces, and it was here that 
 Xerxes constructed his bridge of boats, 
 for the passage of his immense but pusil- 
 lanimous army. 
 
 Not being favoured by the wind, we 
 were obliged to row the whole way, and 
 above three hours had elapsed before we 
 reached Bujukdere. This, however, was 
 a detention which I did not at all regret, 
 as it afforded me an opportunity of exa- 
 mining, at my leisure, this boasted spot, 
 and of dwelling on those beautiful land- 
 
 * From Abydos to Sestos. See Ovid. Ep. 18 
 and 19. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. ^^J 
 
 scapes which successively presented them- 
 selves as we advanced. 
 
 We had been politely invited by Mr. 
 Abbott to remain at his house, till we em- 
 barked on board our Greek vessel, in which 
 we were to accompany Mr. Vanderschroef, 
 a Dutch merchant, removing w ith his wife 
 and family to Buchorest. We purposed 
 to go by way of the Black sea, and, mount- 
 ing the Danube as far as Galatz, to proceed 
 thence to Buchorest by land. This ap- 
 peared to be a more eligible plan, than 
 encountering the danger and fatigue of 
 travelling on horseback to Scmlin; yet 
 could I possibly have foreseen what time 
 has disclosed, I am doubtful whether I 
 should not have preferred the latter route. 
 
 Shortly after our arrival at Bujukdere, we 
 waited on Mr. Vanderschroef to know when 
 he had determined to embark. He re- 
 plied, the moment the wind became fa- 
 vourable ; but that there was little chance 
 of its changing that night. After such 
 an answer, we went to bed, at our usual 
 hour, with apparent security. About two 
 
 VOL. I. XX 
 
qq8 TRAVELS 
 
 OO 
 
 o'clock in the morning, however, wc 
 were awakened out of a sound sleep, by 
 a violent knocking at our chamber door, 
 and the vociferation of a person, with 
 whose voice we were totally unacquainted. 
 I had quite forgotten where I was, and 
 could not conceive the reason of such an 
 untimely disturbance. At last, I thought 
 I heard the name of Vanderschroef, which 
 brought to my recollection all that had pas- 
 sed. We immediately jumped out of bed, 
 and, hastily dressing ourselves, ran down 
 stairs. We were in a great hurry and very 
 impatient to be gone, but, as fate would 
 have it, the key of the street door was 
 missing, and the servants were searching 
 above half an hour for it, before they could 
 find it. We were, nevertheless, detained at 
 Vanderschroei's a considerable time, and did 
 not get under weigh till after five o'clock. 
 
 Bujukdere is but a few miles from the 
 entrance of the Euxine, to guard -which, 
 several fortresses are erected on either shore, 
 which, if kept in proper repair, and well 
 supplied with men and ammunition, might 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 339 
 
 set at defiance the attack of almost any 
 force. Baron de Tott employed his genius 
 in strengthening this important pass, and 
 a castle on the Asian coast was pointed 
 out to us, which was built after a plan 
 submitted by him to the Turkish govern- 
 ment. 
 
 It was at the northern mouth of the 
 Bosphorus, on the European side, that 
 Phinseus king of Thrace kept his court, 
 and where he entertained, for several days, 
 Jason and his Argonauts, who, after leav- 
 ing the inhospitable shores of Bithynia*, 
 were obliged to apply to him for shelter 
 from tempestuous wxather and adverse 
 winds. The ancients, who always dreaded 
 the navigation of the Black sea, crowded 
 the opposite shores, at the entrance, with 
 votive temples to their favourite divinities, 
 that they might be induced to appease its 
 fury. The moderns have acted much 
 
 * The present Eeiros is supposed to be the spot 
 where formerly stood the capita! of the kingdom of 
 Amyeus. 
 
34^ 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 more wisely, in erecting two light-houses 
 to point out to mariners the dangers of the 
 Cyanean rocks. On one of these rocks 
 there is a stone pillar, about fourteen feet 
 high, which is known by the name of 
 Pompey's pillar, and is said, though not 
 with much probability, to have been erected 
 by him, after his conquest of Mithridates, 
 as a memorial of that splendid event. 
 
 The Euxine, or Black sea, is about two 
 hundred leagues in circumference, and 
 may be compared to an immense lake. It 
 is the receptacle of several of the largest 
 rivers in Europe ; and as the canal of Con- 
 stantinople, which is a very narrow strait, is 
 the only visible outlet, many naturalists have 
 been puzzled to account for its stationary 
 appearance, whilst others have been of 
 opinion, (and the opinion appears a very 
 probable one) that its superfluous waters 
 are carried off by means of subterraneous 
 channels. Although we did not find it 
 correspond exactly with the description 
 the ancients have given of it, yet making 
 allowance for the apprehensions of the 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 34I 
 
 Argonauts, and the dissatisfaction of Ovid, 
 we shall not be far removed from the 
 truth. At least, whilst we were on it, 
 it was extremely boisterous, the sky was 
 obscure, and the weather cold. Till lately 
 it was entirely under the dominion of the 
 grand seignor, and no vessel coilld navigate 
 on it without his permission, which was 
 very cautiously granted ; but the possession 
 of the Crimea by the northern empress, 
 has deprived him of this exclusive right, 
 and will probably lead to more important 
 consequences*. 
 
 Till two in the afternoon, I had felt no 
 disagreeable effects from the motion of the 
 vessel ; and, as 1 had lately performed a 
 long voyage, I was beginning to flatter 
 myself that I should altogether escape. 
 
 * Although the credit of obtalnuig this privilege for 
 Great Britain, has been, lately, attempted to be given 
 to Lord Elgin, it is well known that it was secured to us 
 by the exertions of Mr. Spencer Smith, so far back as 
 
 the year 1799 The treaties which have been recently 
 
 entered into by the Turks have now, as far as politi- 
 cal consequences operate, laid the navigation of this 
 sea as open as the Mediterranean. 
 
343 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 Shortly attcr that hour, however, some un- 
 favourable symptoms betrayed themselves, 
 and, in the course of a few minutes, I was 
 seized with a deadly sickness, which con- 
 tinued with increasing violence till three 
 the next morning, when it fortunately 
 began to abate. Never do I remember 
 to have passed so wretched a night. The 
 .cabin being small, and Vanderschroef's fa- 
 mily numerous^ there was no birth for us 
 in it. We were therefore obliged to seek 
 for shelter elsewhere. On inquiry, we 
 found that there was no choice, and the 
 only place kept vacant for us was at the 
 head of the vessel, where there was a 
 hole, (scarcely a fit residence for a dog) 
 one half of which was allotted as the 
 temple of repose for my brother and 
 myself. When lying, we were so cramped 
 for room, that it was quite a labour to 
 turn, and the roof was so low, we could 
 not even sit upright. The only light and 
 air we received were admitted through the 
 opening by which we entered, and which 
 was so small, that before sickness had worn 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 343 
 
 US down, and practice rendered us expert, 
 we ran the risk of sticking by the way. 
 Our ingress and egress that night were 
 perpetual. When I returned, I generally 
 perceived my brother, with his head and 
 shoulders out, inquiring with earnestness 
 if the weather were mending, and telling 
 me, with a mournful countenance, that he' 
 was preparing for another sally. These 
 complicated misfortunes were not a little 
 aggravated by the dreadful noise which 
 the sailors unceasingly made with their 
 voices and violins. I absolutely thought 
 they would have driven me to distraction, 
 and often wished for a little English dis- 
 cipline to keep these fellows to their duty, 
 for they were inconceivably lazy, and un- 
 der no kind of subordination. We would 
 v/illingly have remained all night on deck ; 
 but the sea (which in these parts is gene- 
 rally much agitated; was so tempestuous, 
 that we should, in all probability, have 
 been w^ashed overboard ; and the conso- 
 lations of hope, you know, dispose us to 
 consider lite as worth preserving, even 
 
344 TRAVELS 
 
 under the burden of the deepest afflictions. 
 Our situation would have furnished some 
 laughable scenes to the pencil of Bunbury ; 
 but we were too much weakened, and too 
 immediately concerned, to enjoy them 
 ourselves. 
 
 Both the Turks and Greeks are mise- 
 rable sailors. They know very little about 
 the management of the rigging and sails, 
 and are so ignorant in other respects, that 
 they are almost unacquainted with the use 
 of the compass. A number of boats navi- 
 gate on the Euxine with a sail and four oars ; 
 but it is only during the summer months, 
 and they seldom venture out from the 
 latter end of September till the beginning 
 of May. Even then, they are so cautious 
 that they come to anchor every night, 
 and are careful never to lose sight of the 
 coasts. Some of the first experiments in 
 navigation were made on this sea by the 
 enterprising genius of a race of heroes, and 
 the Turks seem to have added scarcely 
 any thing to the nautical knowlege or 
 skill of these intrepid adventurers. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 345 
 
 On the I2,tli, earlj in the morning, we 
 passed Varna, and often have I lamented 
 since, that we did not disembark there. 
 It is a considerable town, and one of the 
 best ports in the Euxine, famous in history 
 for the desperate battle fought near it in 
 1 444, between Amurat and Ladislaus king 
 of Hungary, who lost the victory and his 
 life. Ten thousand Christians were left 
 on the field, and the slaughter of the Turks 
 was so considerable, that the sultan con- 
 fessed a similar victory would effectuate his 
 ruin*. 
 
 On the 13th, at four o'clock in the 
 morning, we were within two hours sail 
 of the principal mouth of the Danube, 
 when the wind suddenly changing, and 
 shortly after blowing from the opposite 
 quarter, we were driven back to a bay 
 called Cavarna, (a little above Varna) 
 where we were obliged to anchor. The 
 waters of this bay wash the coast of Bul- 
 garia ; and here it was that the Russians 
 and Turks last year had an obstinate en- 
 
 * See Gibbon's Rom. Emp. vol. xii. p. I63. 
 VOL. I. Y Y 
 
346 TRAVELS 
 
 gagement, and whence the latter were, in 
 the end, though without the loss of a single 
 ship, compelled to retreat. 
 
 Tomis, the place so celebrated for the 
 banishment of Ovid, was at no great dis- 
 tance from this spot, though there are 
 various conjectures respecting its exact 
 position. I could not help recalling to 
 my mind the sufferings and complaints of 
 the unfortunate bard, in which his ele- 
 gant, but unfirm and luxurious, soul so 
 forcibly describes, the horrours of being 
 exposed to a savage race of people, a bar- 
 ren coast, a boisterous sea, and a tem- 
 pestuous climate, and in which he so pa- 
 thetically laments the deprivation of the 
 pleasures and vices of Rome. 
 
 As we had all suffered much from ill- 
 ness, and the captain was of opinion that 
 the contrary wind would still continue for 
 several days, we determined, if any con- 
 veyance could be procured, to quit the 
 vessel, and go to Galatz by land. He told 
 us, there was a Turkish village about half 
 a mile from the shore, to which Vander- 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 34^ 
 
 schroef repaired the day after our arrival, not 
 forgetting our firman *. On his return, he 
 informed us, that he had secured several 
 carts and oxen, which would be ready for 
 us the next morning. This piece of in- 
 telligence was received with universal joy, 
 and on the i8th we accordingly disem- 
 barked. I expressed a desire of taking the 
 whole of our baggage with us ; but was 
 o-iven to understand that there was not 
 room for our large trunk. I reluctantly 
 left it behind, presaging, in a manner, the 
 misfortunes to which in the sequel it gave 
 
 rise. 
 
 Bulgaria formerly constituted a part of 
 the kingdom of Hungary ; but it was sub- 
 dued by Amurat II, and has since then 
 been annexed to the Turkish empire. The 
 southern parts of it contain a few con- 
 siderable towns, of which Sophia is the 
 metropolis, and the residence of the beg- 
 lerbeg, or viceroy, of Romelia. 
 
 The accommodations for travelling in 
 
 * This is a paper, corresponding to the passport 
 of Christian countries. 
 
348 TRAVELS 
 
 this country are, beyond all description, 
 deplorable, and the badness of the weather 
 was no small addition to our other dis- 
 tresses; for our vehicles were in such a crazy 
 condition, and so open on every side, that, 
 notwithstanding we wrapped ourselves up 
 as warmly as possible, we were very little 
 protected from its inclemencies. 
 
 These vehicles, called by the people of 
 
 the country arabas, were long narrow carts, 
 
 without springs, and covered with mats, 
 
 which were quite rotten and full of holes. 
 
 In order to be as comfortable as we could, 
 
 we used to lay one mattress under us, and 
 
 cover our baggage (which we piled up 
 
 behind us, so as to make a support for our 
 
 backs) with the other. We then placed 
 
 ourselves side by side ; but were so stinted 
 
 for room, that this position, although the 
 
 most eligible, was by no means a pleasant 
 
 one. Our driver was seated in the front 
 
 of the cart between our legs, and was in 
 
 one respect of some utility ; for, being a 
 
 lusty fellow, he blocked up a considerable 
 
 gap, and excluded no small portion of cold 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 349 
 
 wind. He possessed, what is ironically 
 termed, a plentiful stock of modest assu- 
 rance, and, whenever he felt himself cold, 
 without any ceremony, w^ould struggle 
 hard to wriggle himself into the cart. 
 Being, however, sufficiently squeezed with- 
 out him, we never allowed him to suc- 
 ceed ; but, not understanding his language, 
 wx were obliged, in our own defence, to 
 have recourse to a method still more ef- 
 fectual, and to resist his encroachments 
 with our feet. 
 
 Our oxen went at the rate of about 
 three miles an hour : and, as they were 
 not changed on the road, they could not 
 travel above six or seven hours out of the 
 four-and-twenty, so that we did not ad- 
 vance very expeditiously. Their owners 
 were not at the trouble or expence of pro- 
 viding forage for them ; but, when they 
 were fatigued, would unyoke them, and 
 turn them out to graze on whatever the 
 country afforded. 
 
 Whilst we were on this road, we had 
 a striking instance of the irascible and re- 
 
2^0 'J'RAVELS 
 
 vengeful disposition of the Turks. Two 
 of our guides had had a difference of opi- 
 nion on some trivial subject. The debate 
 soon grew warm, and, in the course of a 
 few minutes, they drew their knives, and 
 began a furious attack, which, in all pro- 
 bability, would have terminated in some 
 fatal catastrophe to the parties, had we 
 not been present. We immediately inter- 
 posed, but had great trouble in separating, 
 and much more in pacifying, them. 
 
 The villages we passed through were 
 wretched in the extreme, and plainly de- 
 monstrated the effects of a corrupt and 
 tyrannic government ; for although our 
 firman secured to us the best lodging 
 which each place furnished, we never ven- 
 tured to expect any thing half so comfort- 
 able as an English barn. More than once 
 we were all obliged to sleep in the same 
 apartment, which was so small, that every 
 inch of the ground was covered with our 
 mattresses, and we could scarcely move, 
 without making invasions on a neigh- 
 bour's territory. There were several 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 351 
 
 ladies with us, to whom a situation of this 
 kind must have been extremely incon- 
 venient ; yet a room thus inhabited, dis- 
 played a scene so novel and so truly ridicu- 
 lous, that, the first time we were wit- 
 nesses to it, we could not get to sleep for 
 laughing. 
 
 Whenever we had the good fortune to 
 meet with a fire-place, it was sure to be 
 in the middle of the room, with a hole in 
 the roof to let out the smoke ; but which 
 answered so badly the purpose for which 
 it was contrived, that the moment our 
 victuals (when we had any) were dressed, 
 we extinguished the fire, preferring to suf- 
 fer from cold to the risk of being stifled 
 by the gross vapours which issued from 
 half-dried wood. 
 
 We found the people of the country 
 inhospitable savages, never yielding any 
 assistance to us, but w^hen it was com- 
 pulsory. On our arrival they used to 
 flock round us, and survey us with a mix- 
 ture of terrour and surprise. They are 
 indeed so accustomed to be plundered, that 
 
^^Z TRAV£Lb 
 
 they are dreadfully fearful of strangers, 
 and carefully conceal from them even the 
 necessaries of life. They possess in gene- 
 ral a great deal of curiosity ; are much ad- 
 dicted to lovv cunning ; and, when lucre 
 stimulates, and opportunity favours, will 
 frequently proceed to open violence. 
 
 During the war, this unfortunate coun- 
 try was completely drained of its wealth 
 by the pacha and other people in power, 
 and the contributions which were levied 
 on these miserable villages were, to the 
 last degree, excessive. One in particular, 
 called Cajarmari, where there are only 
 eight hovels, and where the majority of 
 the inhabitants has only a coarse shirt to 
 veil their nakedness, paid annually, one 
 thousand piastres; a sum so far beyond 
 their ability to support, that it wrested 
 from them every comfort of existence, 
 and reduced them to a state of the most 
 abject poverty and distress. Who can 
 listen to a tale of such villany and per- 
 secution, without giving way to emotions 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. ^^^ 
 
 of indignation and horrour ? Let us not, 
 therefore, attribute that savageness of cha- 
 racter, which I have already remarked, 
 to any natural defect of disposition, but 
 rather to the unrelenting cruelty and op- 
 pression of their insolent rulers : for hu- 
 man nature, when harassed by continual 
 aggravation, loses, by degrees, all its mild- 
 ness and benevolence, and necessarily en- 
 genders the seeds of distrust and revenge. 
 Though frequently crushed to submission, 
 the innate love of liberty still exists, and 
 the delusive persuasions of hope will, at 
 intervals, rouse it to activity. Anxious 
 for redress, and panting with eagerness, 
 for emancipation, if an opportune mo- 
 ment arrive, whilst the transitory flame 
 of irritated passions animates the breast, 
 we are not to be surprised, if it endeavour 
 to assert its rights, and to retaliate those 
 injuries by which it has been aggrieved. 
 A propensity to hate our enemies, and to 
 avenge the wrongs they have inflicted on 
 us, is a principle which is coeval with the 
 VOL. I. z z ' 
 
354 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 instinctive feelings of the human frame. 
 It has an eternal basis m nature, and pre- 
 vails throughout the extent of the animal 
 creation. It is a fundamental law which 
 is universally established in the breast, and 
 is neither to be subverted by sophistry, 
 nor invalidated by persuasion, nor extir- 
 pated by power. 
 
 The country is remarkably level, and 
 we traversed immense plains, so small a 
 portion of which is cultivated, that the la- 
 bours of the plough are almost unknown. 
 They consist chiefly of pasture land, and 
 the little grain that is raised, is of such an 
 indifferent quality, that it is hardly fit for 
 use. These plains stretch, with little in- 
 terruption, from the foot of mount H^- 
 mus, to the banks of the Danube, and 
 have been the theatre of several desperate 
 conflicts between the enterprising and ir- 
 resistible Attila and the degenerate soldiers 
 of Theodosius. 
 
 The climate is cold, and must be ex- 
 tremely unfavourable to vegetation, for 
 scarcely a tree is any where to be seen; 
 
THROUGH TURRET. ^^^ 
 
 but the cattle, such as horses, cows, and 
 sheep, though not abundant, is healthy 
 and strong. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
2^6 TRAVEL^ 
 
 LETTER XVII. 
 
 Galatz, May 26, 1792. 
 
 On the 1 8th, at two o'clock, 
 we reached a village on the banks of the 
 Danube, which we, of course, concluded 
 was very near Galatz. Shortly after our 
 arrival, however, as we were congratulat- 
 ing ourselves on the approaching termi- 
 nation of this irksome journey, one of our 
 company, who had been chatting with the 
 villagers for the sake of information, ap- 
 proached, and, with a disconsolate coun- 
 tenance, told us, that our guides had mis- 
 taken the road, and, instead of conducting 
 us to the place that was opposite Galatz, 
 had carried us about forty leagues higher 
 up the river. This intelligence was enough 
 to ruffle even the resigned temper of a 
 stoick. Had we been travelling through. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. ^^y 
 
 an interesting country, I should not per- 
 haps have repined : but, when I considered 
 that we had been traversing some thousand 
 acres of waste land which presented nothing 
 to the view but a few ruined villages, 
 where desolation holds its dreary and soli- 
 tary sway; when I reflected, moreover, on 
 the loss of time we had incurred, and the 
 fatigue we had undergone ; that we had 
 neither been enriched by the stores of 
 knowledge, nor delighted by the charms 
 of amusement ; I confess that I was tho- 
 roughly discontented. Here it was, we 
 had ample reason to lament having left 
 our trunk on board the Greek vessel : w^e 
 might, otherwise, by crossing the Danube, 
 have proceeded to Buchorest in a direct 
 line. 
 
 Rassovat (the name of this village) was 
 formerly respectable for its extent and po- 
 pulation, and the ruins of several hundred 
 houses which surround it, made me la- 
 ment its present insignificance. Destitute 
 of every thing that can render life com- 
 fortable, it only offers to the view a few 
 
35^ 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 huts, corresponding with the manners of 
 their tenants, which hardly rise above the 
 condition of savage hfe. They all appear 
 to be half- starved, and are subject to fe- 
 vers and a variety of other complaints, oc- 
 casioned by the badness and scantiness of 
 their nourishment. Yet so great is the 
 vanity of mankind, and so desirous, in every 
 situation, is one person of distinguishing 
 himself above another, that even in this 
 obscure corner of the earth, where one 
 would imagine, from the description, that 
 extreme poverty had levelled all notions of 
 distinction, and crushed the aspiring senti- 
 ments of emulation, children are seen, 
 with their caps loaded with pieces of 
 money, whilst both themselves and their 
 parents are suffering from the denial of 
 food. Almost every scene of life is capa- 
 ble of furnishing instruction, and never 
 was the folly of ostentation more forcibly 
 conveyed to my mind. 
 
 After an infinite deal of trouble, by the 
 authority of our firman, we at last pro- 
 cured a lodging, which consisted of two 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 359 
 
 adjoining rooms, heated by the same stove. 
 It had not a very inviting appearance^ 
 yet we consoled ourselves with the expec- 
 tation of a sound sleep, and the hope of 
 recruiting our strength by a short remis- 
 sion from the fatigues of travelling. But 
 when the hour of repose came, we found 
 that imagination had been much too fer- 
 vent, and had only been amusing us with 
 visionary ideas ; for the rooms, which 
 were thatched with rushes, swarmed so 
 astonishingly with fleas and muschetoes, 
 that, during the two nights we passed 
 here, I had not so much as one hour's 
 sleep. Nothing but actual experience can 
 enable us to form any just and definite 
 notion of the misery to which mankind is 
 often subjected; nor without the convic- 
 tion, which that stern monitor uniformly 
 enforces, could I have conceived, that we 
 should one day be reduced to such a de- 
 plorable situation, as to lament the pri- 
 vation of our hole on board the Greek 
 vessel, and to confess that there \\cre 
 
360 TRAVELS 
 
 abodes on etrth, to which that dungeon 
 "was a luxury. 
 
 We had -with us a fat German woman, 
 whom we had hired at Constantinople to 
 cook our victuals ; but, God knows, she 
 had but little occupation of that kind. 
 And, in truth, when we had an oppor- 
 tunity of purchasing any provisions, they 
 were not much improved by the assistance 
 of her art ; for she was abominably dirty, 
 and there being no kitchen to conceal her 
 operations, we generally knew what we 
 had to expect. But her greatest failing 
 was a strong propensity to thieving; and 
 when I came to inquire for my cloak, 
 which I had committed for a day to her 
 care, it was not to be found. My hat also 
 disappeared about the same time, and, in 
 all likelihood, in the same way, which was 
 another irreparable misfortune, and severely 
 felt. 
 
 The morning after our arrival, we took a 
 walk to see the environs of this unfortu- 
 nate village, and, before we returned, en- 
 
THROUGH TURKEY, 361 
 
 tered into an agreement with the master 
 of a Greek boat to carry us down the 
 river as far as Galatz ; for, after the morti- 
 fying disappointment we had met with, we 
 felt no inclination to travel any farther by 
 land. 
 
 The river Argis falls into the Danube 
 almost opposite to Rassovat, and it was 
 near this spot that the Gothic nation, 
 flying from the furious pursuit of the 
 Huns, implored the clemency of the Ro- 
 man government. Valens, who at that 
 time was, unfortunately, seated on the 
 throne, after some hesitation, at last con- 
 sented to receive them into the territories 
 of Thrace. Near a million of these bar- 
 barians crossed the river, and laid the 
 foundation of those rapid conquests which 
 accelerated the subversion of the Eastern 
 empire*. 
 
 The face of the country, to the wxst 
 of Rassovat, is much more diversified and 
 interesting than that which we had passed 
 
 * See Gibbon's Rom. Emp. vol. iv. p. 382. 
 VOL. I. 3 A 
 
^62 TflAVELS 
 
 through. In many parts, it is very wild 
 and romantic, and, although but badly 
 cultivated, wears the cheerful countenance 
 of fertility, and abounds with agreeable 
 landscapes. The Danube, which flows in 
 a very serpentine direction, and is decorated 
 with several islands which are well stocked 
 with timber, adds considerably to the life 
 and beauty of the surrounding scenery. 
 Some few flocks of sheep arc bred on the 
 neighbouring mountains. They produce a 
 fine wool, that is spun, and manufactured 
 into a stout cloth by the inhabitants, and 
 proves a useful commodity in a country, 
 where the climate is cold, and which, 
 having no opportunity of intercourse with 
 other places, is entirely dependent on 
 itself. 
 
 One would conceive that in such a 
 situation, where nature has not been very 
 sparing of her bounties ; where the soil is 
 generous ; where there is no want of fuel ; 
 and where the noblest river in Europe is 
 at hand; that there could not be many 
 sound reasons of complaint. Yet the 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 363 
 
 misery of the people is excessive. Syste- 
 matic tyranny and oppression have so 
 slackened every nerve of the body, and so 
 cramped every energy of the mind, that 
 they seem totally indifferent about life, 
 and v^aste their time in the murmurs of 
 idle complaint, or the listlessness of insur- 
 mountable inactivity. They used in the 
 evening to assemble round our door, and 
 to relate to us, in the expressive language 
 of deep-felt grief, the hardships to which 
 they had been exposed from the unrelent- 
 ing cruelty and profligate avarice of their 
 rulers. Their property had been pillaged, 
 their houses dismantled, their persons in- 
 sulted. Many had fled their homes to 
 save the wreck of their fortune : those 
 w^ho remained had nothing more to lose. 
 The scourge of despotism had been every 
 where applied, and its consequences were 
 every where evident. 
 
 The manner in which the people of the 
 country navigate their boats is rather curious. 
 In each boat there is seldom more than 
 one man, who is furnished with a piece 
 
364 TRAVELS 
 
 of wood in the form of a battledore, with a 
 long handle (something like the paddle of 
 the Indians) which he shifts about with 
 wonderful dexterity, employing it one 
 moment as an oar, the next as a rudder. 
 The river being wide, and the stream ra- 
 pid, it was quite an entertainment to ob- 
 serve their different manoeuvres, when 
 they wanted to gain the opposite shore. 
 It was a task of no small difficulty ; and, 
 in spite of all their skill and good ma- 
 nagement, before they could accomplish it, 
 they were frequently carried out of a direct 
 line a full quarter of a mile. 
 
 In the evening the governor, who is a 
 Constantinopolitan, and an obliging well- 
 bred man, paid us a visit. He was sur- 
 prisingly communicative for a Turk, and, 
 in the course of conversation, let us into a 
 great part of his history. He had been 
 lately appointed, and informed us that, be- 
 sides this, eleven other villages were sub- 
 ject to his jurisdiction, and that his princi- 
 pal view in residing here, was to induce 
 those inhabitants, whom the horrours of 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. ^6^ 
 
 war, and the rapacity of his predecessor, had 
 driven away, to return, and rebuild their 
 houses ; for, it has been so completely ex- 
 hausted, that, in its present desolated state, 
 it yields him scarcely any revenue what- 
 ever. I have often been astonished at that 
 destructive spirit of domineering over our 
 inferiors, which, if we may judge from the 
 almost continual abuse of power, seems to 
 be a principle inherent in the human 
 breast. Yet it certainly leads us widely 
 astray from the real and honourable pur- 
 suits and objects of our happiness. Ty- 
 ranny may riot in its spoils for a short time, 
 but it must inevitably terminate in ruin. 
 The very strength of despotism under- 
 mines its duration ; for that excess of power 
 which makes every one tremble, every one 
 must be anxious to subvert. Whereas a 
 just and lenient government, like a tem- 
 perate climate, yields a regular and increas- 
 ing supply. It has its foundations in the 
 affections of the people, and every member 
 of the community, being interested in its 
 preservation, cheerfully contributes to it? 
 support. 
 
^66 TRAVELS 
 
 O 
 
 On the 20th, to our great joy, we em- 
 barked on board our boat for Galatz, 
 which, had the wind favoured us, we 
 might easily have reached the next morn- 
 ing by day-break. But, as usual, it was 
 directly contrary, and, although we were 
 assisted a good deal by the current, before 
 we had proceeded far, it blew with such 
 violence, that the sailors could no longer 
 manage the boat with their oars. We 
 were therefore obliged to come to anchor. 
 What followed was in exact unison with 
 this ominous outset, and, in this manner, 
 our efforts were frustrated for two tedious 
 days ; quitting our anchorage as the wind 
 abated, and having recourse to it again as 
 it increased. These frequent, and, ap- 
 parently, increasing difficulties, so un- 
 nerved every active principle of enjoyment, 
 that we had scarcely power left to admire 
 the diversified landscapes, which opened 
 upon us as we descended the river, and 
 which were certainly capable of raising, 
 in the minds of less dissatisfied specta- 
 tors, the most pleasurable ideas. Water, 
 land, and wood, blended together, with all 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 367 
 
 the charms of nature and graces of variety, 
 and viewed through the numerous changes 
 of Hght and shade which the two great lu- 
 minaries of the earth were ahernately af- 
 fording, were no common objects ; but we 
 were so discontented that we could relish 
 nothing. When our men were tired with 
 rowing, we used to go ashore, and wander 
 in the woods, collecting wild flowers ; or 
 sit down among the rushes, and endeavour, 
 by conversation, to mitigate the poignancy 
 of present affliction, and banish the re- 
 membrance of past disappointment. We 
 had advanced so little, that we began to 
 apprehend wc should be at least a week on 
 the Danube, when, on the 2,zd in the 
 morning, the storm ceasing, we took ad- 
 vantage of a dead calm, and, by dint of 
 hard rowing, at six o'clock in the evening 
 arrived at Ibrail. 
 
 This day was not only propitious to 
 us, but to the whole Turkish empire, it 
 being the last day of the ramazan, and, 
 shortly after we landed, a great many guns 
 were fired, and other demonstrations of 
 
368 TRAVELS 
 
 joy took place. As the termination ot' 
 this fast approaches, the Turks, if the 
 sky is clear, are so impatient, that they 
 ascend to the tops of the highest hills, 
 and, the instant they discover the new 
 moon, make the air ring with acclama- 
 tions. 
 
 The bairam, which is the Turkish 
 Easter, commences the moment the ra- 
 mazan ends. It lasts for three days, 
 during which the Turks totally dispossess 
 themselves of their usual gravity, and wil- 
 lingly engage in every kind of amuse- 
 ment and dissipation. The streets, bazars, 
 and coffee-houses, are crowded ; bonfires 
 are blazing ; cymbals, trumpets, and drums 
 are continually sounding ; and nothing but 
 sport, and mirth, and jollity, is to be seen. 
 Even many of the women, who have been 
 closely immured the rest of the year, are 
 allowed to quit their apartments, and 
 to partake of the general joy. The first 
 day of this festival is a day of universal 
 pardon and reconciliation, and the Turks 
 go to each other's houses, making presents^ 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. ^6^ 
 
 and wishing prosperity. Every good Mus-? 
 sulman is bound at this season to forgive 
 past offences, and to dislodge from his 
 breast all uncharitableness. Friends form 
 stricter alliances, and even enemies shake 
 hands with apparent cordiality. At Con- 
 stantinople the grand seignor holds a splen- 
 did court, where, seated on his throne, he 
 receives the compliments of the great 
 officers of state, after which he gives a 
 sumptuous entertainment in the hall of the 
 divan. 
 
 Our sailors, anxious to participate in the 
 pleasures of this holiday, and to celebrate 
 it on shore, apprized us of their intention 
 of leaving the boat early in the morning. 
 We endeavoured to dissuade them from 
 deserting us, but our arguments were vain^, 
 for they were pre-determined to go. 
 
 This is the most considerable festival 
 among the Turks. They have another 
 called the little bairam, which falls seventy 
 days later ; and, on the twelfth day of their 
 third month, they commemorate, with zea- 
 lous devotion, the birth of their prophet. 
 
 VOL. I. 3 B 
 
^yo TRAVELS 
 
 Ibrail * is a place of some consequence. 
 It is large, well built, and pleasantly 
 situated ; and the castle, which stands on 
 an eminence, is commanded by a pacha of 
 three tails. This is a title of high distinc- 
 tion in Turkey, and derives its origin from 
 the following occurrence. A Turkish ge- 
 neral, who had lost all his standards, and 
 whose troops were giving way on every 
 side, suddenly ran up to a horse, and, cut- 
 ting off his tail, fastened it to the end of a 
 lance, and elevated it in the air. This ro- 
 mantic act, worthy of the times of chivalry, 
 produced such an effect on his soldiers, that 
 
 * This is the place from before which Suwarrow was 
 called, by Potemkin, in the month of December 179c, 
 to undertake the storming of Ismael. The siege of that 
 important fortress had lasted seven months, and had 
 created the greatest degree of impatience and mortifi- 
 cation in the breast of the Russian favourite. Three 
 days after the arrival of Suwarrow, it was carried by 
 assault, which was one of the most bloody events of 
 that destructive war. The enp-agement did not last 
 above seven hours, in which time, such was the des- 
 peration and animosity with which both armies con- 
 tended, that 25,000 Turks, and upwards of 4000 
 Russians, perished. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 371 
 
 they instantly rallied, and fought with such 
 determined valour, that they soon retrieved 
 their misfortune, and gained the victory *. 
 Since that period the title has existed, and 
 lances, to the points of w^hich are fixed 
 horses' tails, are carried before those in- 
 vested w^ith the dignity. 
 
 As we purposed remaining here all 
 night, I was desirous of walking up and 
 down the beach till the dawn of day; 
 but being informed that it would be dan- 
 gerous, as there was a number of villains 
 generally lurking about, I was prevailed 
 on, when it grew dark, to return on 
 board. Sooner, however, than undergo 
 what I had endured the preceding nights 
 from the complicated miseries of confine- 
 ment, heat, muschetoes, and fleas, I laid my- 
 self down on that part of the boat which, in 
 the day-time, was occupied by the rowers, 
 with nothing but some uneven planks for 
 my bed, and the heavens for my covering. 
 This was not, you will say, a very enviable 
 
 * See Toumefort, vol. ii. p. 294. 
 
373 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 {)lacc of rest, yet, comparatively speaking, 
 it had its advantages, and, when contrasted 
 with the post I had abandoned, was even 
 capable of furnishing some comforts. 
 
 That you may form a just idea of our 
 sufferings the two preceding days, I will 
 describe that part of the boat which was 
 allotted to passengers. It was about 
 twelve feet long and six wide, and was 
 covered with an awning to keep out the 
 rain. In this confined space, seventeen 
 people, extended on mattresses, were des- 
 tined to remain, night and day, in the 
 same position. A slave captain, who had 
 been torturing his mind half his life, to 
 contrive the most convenient and eco- 
 nomical plan of packing negroes, could 
 not, I suppose, have squeezed us into a 
 smaller compass ; and our situation sug- 
 gested to me, more than once, the hard 
 fate of those unhappy people. At night, 
 when, to exclude the damp air, it was 
 closed at each end, it was just like a fur- 
 nace, and we were absolutely almost suffo- 
 cated with each other's breath. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. ^^^ 
 
 Our sailors returned much earlier than 
 we expected them ; and, on the 53d, about 
 ten o'clock in the morning, we anchored 
 at Galatz, joyful beyond measure, as you 
 may easily imagine, to be released from 
 our dreadful state of durance, and fully 
 resolved, that nothing but absolute neces- 
 sity should prevail on us again to trust to 
 the uncertainty of a water expedition. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
374 TRAVELS 
 
 LETTER XVIII. 
 
 Galatz, June 4, 1792. 
 
 From the time we had quitted 
 our vessel at Cavarna till our arrival here, 
 we had fared so scantily (sometimes tast- 
 ing nothing, in the course of the day, 
 but a cup of coffee, without sugar, and 
 a slice of black bread, as hard and heavy 
 as lead) that we were almost famished. 
 The moment, therefore, that we alighted 
 from our boat, listening to the admoni- 
 tions of Nature, we went in quest of 
 provisions, and had not walked far, be- 
 fore we espied a baker's shop. With joy 
 painted on our countenances, we imme- 
 diately flew thither, and, purchasing some 
 rolls, rubbed over with oil to give them a 
 polish, made a most delicious repast. I 
 really never remember relishing any thing 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 375 
 
 SO much, which verified the old adage, 
 that " Hunger is the best sauce." 
 
 Having satisfied our stomachs, our next 
 inquiry was after our Greek vessel, which, 
 as we had been so many days coming from 
 Cavarna, we were in hopes had got the 
 start of us ; but, to our great sorrow and 
 mortification, no tidings of her had beea 
 received. This business being also dis- 
 patched, we went in search of a house, 
 and, in this respect, we were much more 
 fortunate, for we met with one, which 
 far surpassed our most sanguine expecta- 
 tions. It had been inhabited by the 
 Russian general Kamenskoi, by the cele- 
 brated prince Potemkin, and also by prince 
 Repnin, who remained here a week, and, 
 in conjunction with the grand vizir You- 
 souf, on the 9th of January last, signed 
 the preliminaries of the peace which was 
 shortly after concluded at Yassi. The walls 
 had been lately white-washed, and it was 
 divided into several apartments, in each of 
 which, early in the evening, we spread three 
 or four mattresses, laid our sheets, and, after 
 
Q^'J^ TRAVELS 
 
 having passed twelve nights in our clothes, 
 ae;aln undressed ourselves. This, for the 
 first time, was such an indulgence, and 
 so increased our inclination to sleep, that 
 we even set at defiance the depredations 
 of the muschetoes, which, however, has 
 not been the case since. You can scarcely 
 conceive how these little animals torture 
 us, for they pounce upon us in such swarms, 
 that we kill them in vain ; and all our 
 exertions are unequal to the task of ap- 
 parently diminishing their numbers. They 
 absolutely deprive us of half the pleasures 
 of our existence, and often make me think, 
 what insignificant beings we must our- 
 selves be, when our comforts are so depen- 
 dent, as to lie at the mercy of a diminutive 
 insect. 
 
 Galatz is the last place of consequence 
 on the southern side of Moldavia, and, 
 like most of the other towns in the 
 prince's territories, has been desolated by 
 the iron hand of war. It was surrendered 
 to the Russians about two years ago, after 
 an obstinate battle, in which the greatest 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 3^77 
 
 part of the Turkish army (consisting of 
 eight thousand men, sent by the Porte to 
 insure a successful resistance) was left dead 
 on the field. 
 
 When the Russians entered the town, 
 flushed with victory, and exasperated at the 
 stubborn and unexpected resistance that 
 had been made, they committed cruel- 
 ties, which would reflect disgrace on any 
 nation, or on any age *. Instead of testify- 
 ing that respect to which a vanquished 
 enemy is entitled, after having nobly fought 
 in defence of their liberties and their coun- 
 try ; instead of rewarding those deeds of 
 valour and patriotism, which, whatever 
 may be the fortune of war, always kindle, 
 in the bosom of a true soldier, the gene- 
 rous sentiments of compassion and esteem ; 
 the licentiousness of the troops was suf- 
 fered to rage without restraint. The four 
 corners of the town were fired ; the wo- 
 men wxre torn from the protection of their 
 
 * Kamenskoi, who led on the Russian troops, 
 was, even among the Russians, noted for barbarity. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 3c 
 
^yS TRAVELS 
 
 fathers and husbands ; many of the inha- 
 bitants were wantonly massacred in cold 
 blood; the churches were broken open, 
 plundered, and otherwise profaned * ; in 
 short, every outrage, both on decency and 
 humanity, was committed, and a scene 
 was exhibited too black for any pen to 
 paint. How shocking is war when it is 
 thus prosecuted ! If it be a necessary evil. 
 Jet it at least be deplored as a dreadful al- 
 ternative ; let it he waged with some sense 
 of honour, and some principle of feeling ; 
 and let not the character of man be de- 
 graded by a barbarous delight in crimes 
 which should be estranged from his heart. 
 Shortly after our arrival, a Greek ac- 
 costed us, and politely offered his services, 
 which we readily accepted. He has since 
 constantly attended us, and, being of a 
 loquacious disposition, he soon acquainted 
 us with every anecdote and occurrence of 
 his life. During the w^ar he had deserted 
 his country, and fought, with various suc- 
 
 * Some of the churches were even turned into 
 butchers' shops. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 h79 
 
 cess, under the Russian banners. He took 
 great delight in boasting of his achieve- 
 ments ; in shewing the scars which he had 
 received ; and enumerating the perils from 
 which he had escaped. Often have I won- 
 dered, that his offended countrymen, who 
 sometimes listened to his recital, did not 
 rise against him, and put a period to his 
 insolence and his baseness, by planting their 
 daggers in his heart. The exasperation 
 would almost have excused the mode of 
 revenge, and it could hardly have been 
 considered as a dishonourable offering at 
 the altar of injured and insulted patriotism. 
 Though in a manner an uninterested au- 
 ditor, I felt a kind of horrour kindle within 
 me, whenever he expatialied on this hate- 
 ful theme. He completely exhausted my 
 patience, and irritated my feelings ; for I 
 cannot help detesting the wretch, who re- 
 joices in the misfortunes of his native land, 
 and is designedly instrumental in accele- 
 rating its ruin. It is the most execrable 
 and unnatural of all crimes, and betrays 
 such a total depravity of heart, such an 
 
380 TRAVELS 
 
 entire dereliction of honour, generosity, and 
 sentiment, that no punishment which this 
 world can inflict can be commensurate to 
 the iniquity of such atrocious guilt. 
 
 This renegado, since the cessation of 
 hostilities, has established himself here as 
 an apothecary, and I fancy his stock of 
 knowledge in the art is about equal to his 
 stock of medicines, both very scanty. He 
 amused us, for the first few days, with the 
 relation of several laughable stories ; but his 
 fund of wit and anecdote was soon exhausted 
 (which, by the by, is generally the case 
 with story-tellers), and we now find his 
 company extremely dull and tedious. He 
 is, however, of a gay and active disposi^ 
 tion, and, as he appears to be desirous of 
 diverting us as much as he can, he is cer- 
 tainly entitled to our thanks. 
 
 When he perceived that his conver- 
 sation no longer engaged our attention, 
 he collected a band of fiddlers and dancers, 
 whom he has frequently brought to our 
 house ; but I feel so little interested in 
 this pastime, that, since their first exhibi- 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 381 
 
 tion, I have almost always quitted the 
 room. Their favourite dance, which is 
 neither elegant nor sprightly, is, perhaps, 
 worth describing, as it exhibits a feature 
 of national manners. About a dozen men 
 and women, placed alternately, form a circle, 
 which, as long as the dance lasts, is never 
 broken. They display a variety of antic 
 gestures, and, at stated periods, stretch out 
 their arms over their heads, footing at the 
 same time very clumsily, and making a 
 terrible noise with their heels. 
 
 Among the musicians, there is a blind 
 old man, who plays on an instrument, 
 which, I imagine, is of his own invention, 
 for I never saw one like it. Thou2;h not 
 a very skilful performer, he is considered 
 as the Orpheus of the place, and every 
 body pays him great respect, and listens to 
 him with the profoundest attention. 
 
 Many of the women here form matri- 
 monial alliances at a very early period of 
 life, and there were one morning in our 
 house two married ladies, whose ages 
 together did not amount to four-and- 
 
^Sz TRAVELS 
 
 twenty years. I scarce know which is 
 most deserving of commiseration, ihe hus- 
 band or the wife, for I'c is not possible that 
 much happiness can result from these pre- 
 mature connexions, when reason is still in 
 its infancy, and in all its operations is un- 
 decided and weak. And what signify the 
 graces of personal charms, without corre- 
 sponding endowments of mind, the only 
 qualifications which can secure permanent 
 attachment and real esteem ? 
 
 A few days ago, I visited the spot 
 where the engagement between the Rus- 
 sians and Turks was fought, and where 
 so many thousands of my fellow-creatures 
 breathed their last. It is an extensive 
 plain, bounded on one side by a hill, from 
 the brow of which there is an interesting 
 view that extends, across the Danube, 
 over a large tract of Bess- Arabia, which, 
 from its appearance, is tolerably fertile. 
 This country is inhabited by the Bujac 
 Tartars, many of whom, like the other 
 wandering tribes, live in villages, composed 
 of houses w^hich are constructed on wheels? 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 383 
 
 and which, as soon as the forage of any 
 district is consumed, they transport to fresh 
 pastures. It contains, however, several 
 fixed towns, such as Bender * and Belgorod, 
 which are tolerably well peopled. 
 
 A field of battle is always a melancholy 
 sight. It immediately inclines the mind 
 to a contemplative mood, and furnishes it 
 with a train of gloomy ideas. We cannot 
 survey it, without wondering at that 
 strange perversion of human intellect, or 
 that irresistible impulse of human passion, 
 which, when a dispute arises, prompts us 
 to spurn at accommodation, and to assert 
 our claim by arms ; which hurries us into 
 the ocean of anarchy, disorder, and guilt ; 
 and diffuses over the face of the earth 
 desolation, famine, and death. This spot 
 
 * The mention of Bender reminds one of the fate 
 of the romantic and unfortunate, bat magnanimous, 
 king of Sweden;, who, after his defeat at PuUowa, 
 saved himself by flight, and took refuge among the 
 Turks and Tartars, by whom he was kindly received, 
 and, for near four years, hospitably maintained. See 
 Vohaire Hist, de Charles XII. 
 
384 TRAVELS 
 
 was peculiarly calculated to excite similar 
 emotions, for the effects of the slaughter 
 were still apparent, and a number of skulls 
 and bones was scattered over different 
 parts, deprived of their funeral rites, and 
 exhibiting an awful memorial of the car- 
 nage of the day. What, alas ! is the his- 
 tory of mankind? — little more than a dis- 
 mal recital of battles and murders, of in- 
 justice and rapacity, of follies and crimes ! 
 These are the themes which engage the 
 pen of the historian, on which he displays 
 the subtlety of argument, the splendour of 
 eloquence, and the fertility of wit ; whilst 
 the duties and offices of private life, the 
 triumphs of temperance, the fidelity of 
 friendship, the bounties of benevolence^ 
 glide down the stream of oblivion, unre- 
 corded, and almost unobserved. 
 
 When we first arrived, the Russians 
 were still in possession of Galatz ; but, by 
 the articles of peace, it was ceded to the 
 Turks, who took possession of it on the 
 28th of last month. The inhabitants are 
 just beginning to recover from their panic. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 385 
 
 and to rebuild their houses, the materials of 
 which are wood and plaster. 
 
 One district of the town is inhabited 
 by Jews, who carry on a confined com- 
 merce, and v/ho, as in other parts, when 
 you want to purchase any thing, ask fully 
 the doiible of what they can afford, and are 
 willing, to take. What a degrading con- 
 sideration, that dishonesty should be the 
 most prominent feature in the character 
 of such a numerous and widely diffused 
 people! They meet, however, with their 
 reward, for in every country they are 
 shunned and despised. They are, besides, 
 not unfrequently, the greatest sufferers, 
 for, when we deal with them, we always 
 go cautiously to work, and, fearing to 
 be overreached, even when they reduce 
 their demands to a fair standard, we still 
 suspect they are endeavouring to impose 
 on us, and take our leave without parting 
 with our money. Duplicity and fraud, no 
 doubt, sometimes prosper; but industry, 
 with a good character, will generally, I am 
 convinced, in the end, insure better suc- 
 
 VOL. I. ^ D 
 
386 TRAVELS 
 
 cess than any acts to which the ingenuity 
 of deception can resort. I was surprised to 
 find, in their shops several pieces of 
 English shalloons, which arc brought all 
 the way from Constantinople, and retailed 
 at an enormous profit. 
 
 The provisions, which the country 
 affords, though in no great variety, are 
 abundant and cheap. Some fish is also 
 caught in the river, of which we partake 
 every day, but of what species I cannot 
 inform you. All I can say, is, that what 
 it wants in flavour, it makes up in size, 
 for it is both large and fat. In London 
 it would not perhaps be regarded as a de- 
 licacy ; but we have been so accustomed 
 to bad fare, that we are not difficult to 
 please. 
 
 On the 1st we took a walk to see an 
 extensive lake, a few miles off, which has 
 a communication with the Danube, and 
 the fishery of which is farmed for seven 
 hundred piastres a year. Whilst we were 
 resting on a bank near it, we heard the 
 trickling of water among the rocks, and, on 
 
THROUGH TURKEy. 387 
 
 looking round, discovered an abundant 
 spring. We could not help lamenting it was 
 not nearer Galatz, for the water we get 
 there, as well as the wine (which is a distil- 
 lation from wormwood) is excessively bad. 
 On our return, being rather fatigued, we 
 determined to explore a new road, by which 
 we hoped to save two or three miles ; but 
 wx had not gone above half way, when 
 we found ourselves at the entrance of an 
 extensive morass, on the borders of the 
 river, which was so thickly overgrown w ith 
 high reeds, that we in vain attempted to 
 penetrate them. After exhausting our 
 strength in fruitless exertions, we wxre 
 glad to find our way back, and regain the 
 original road, for the evening was begin- 
 ing to close in, and had we persisted much 
 longer, we should, in all probability, have 
 passed the night in the open air. 
 
 Our Greek vessel, which we had been 
 so long anxiously looking for, only ar- 
 rived the day before yesterday. It had 
 been detained at Cavarna, by the con- 
 trary wind, a week after we quitted it, 
 
388 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 and had required the remainder of the 
 time to ascend the Danube ; so that, all 
 circumstances considered, we should have 
 been worse off, had we remained on board. 
 We dined that day, according to ap- 
 pointment, with the new governor, who, 
 as far as I can judge, is as little adapted 
 for the office as Sancho was. Still, had 
 he possessed Sancho's humour, we should 
 have been satisfied with him, for he 
 would then have diverted us with his 
 conversation ; but he is as dull an animal 
 as I ever met with, and scarcely opened 
 his lips. His only recommendation is his 
 good-nature ; a quality, however, which, 
 unless united with good-sense, has but few 
 attractions, and can insure a man, at most, 
 but negative praise ; because, possessing no 
 powers of discrimination, it arises entirely 
 from want of discernment, and receives, 
 with the same indifference, the most oppo- 
 site impressions. Almost every thing was 
 brought to table which the country and sea- 
 son afford: we ought not therefore to com- 
 plain of the badness of the entertainment ; 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. $89 
 
 but, what was unpardonable, the linen was 
 so dirty, that we did not venture to make use 
 of our napkins. Such are the notions which 
 the Greeks have of cleanliness and pro- 
 priety ! Many dishes, the materials of which 
 I could not discover, were served up, and, 
 when removed, were replaced by others as 
 undefinable. Every thing, indeed, had 
 such a filthy, slovenly, disgusting appear- 
 ance, that, notwithstanding the profusion 
 of viands, and the stimulations of hunger, 
 I lost my appetite without eating. The 
 governor's sons, out of compliment, waited 
 on us, and, during the time of dinner, 
 some musicians were stationed behind us, 
 who were miserable bawlers and scrapers, 
 and had no mercy on our ears. 
 
 The Greeks, hke the Turks, at meals, 
 do not, ordinarily, provide themselves or 
 their guests with knives and forks, but, 
 when they help any body, put their hands 
 into the dish, and tear off a piece with 
 their fingers. In the course of the dinner, 
 I had the mortification of seeing several 
 fowls undergo this barbarous method of 
 
ggO TRAVELS 
 
 dissection. A bason and ewer are, indeed, 
 always sent round before they sit down to 
 table, when every person washes his hands, 
 a necessary precaution where they are em- 
 ployed in such purposes. At the houses 
 of people of consequence, you are presented 
 with silver vessels, and richly embroidered 
 towels to dry yourself. 
 
 In the suit of the Greek governor, 
 there is a person who is appointed to su- 
 perintend the education of his children, 
 and who, however well calculated he 
 may be for such an office from the ex- 
 tent of his erudition, on the score of 
 morality, is certainly very deficient. 
 This fellow is extremely fond of cards, 
 and as we frequently play, for want of a 
 better amusement to beguile the heavi- 
 ness of time, when we first arrived, he 
 generally managed to be of the party. But 
 we have detected him in the act of cheat- 
 ing so often, that we now decline the 
 favour of his company. It was, to be sure, 
 at a round game that he chose to exer- 
 cise his talents, at which, even amongst 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 39I 
 
 many individuals in England, I am sorry 
 to say, these deceptions are professed to 
 be considered as innocent recreations. 
 For my part, I never regarded them in 
 that venial light ; and 1 conceive it to be 
 a principle, highly pernicious and degrad- 
 ing, for any one, who has a proper regard 
 for honour, or respect for himself, to lay 
 down that as a rule of conduct, by which 
 he is benefited, and another person in- 
 jured. It may, perhaps, be alleged, that 
 the benefit and the injury are of so trifling 
 a nature, and are felt in such a slight de- 
 gree by either party, that it is a matter 
 of mere indifference, which is the sufferer. 
 It is not, however, the injury, but the prin- 
 ciple, that I object to ; and, if the tempta- 
 tion be small, the excuse is less pardonable, 
 as less exertion is requisite to subdue it. 
 Why then should we endeavour to silence 
 the murmurs of conscience by flying to the 
 subterfuges of sophistry, and allow our- 
 selves to palliate the motive, because the 
 mischief is not severe ? or why, even in 
 trifles, should we depart from those sound 
 
392 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 and laudable precepts, which, in points of 
 greater moment, would insure everlasting 
 infamy and contempt ? These foolish dis- 
 tinctions certainly tend to vitiate the incli- 
 nations, and to estrange us from those rules 
 of decorum and integrity which are the ab- 
 solute maintenance of society. It is not 
 by any sudden and impetuous shocks, 
 that a mind, naturally wxll disposed, is 
 corrupted ; but by those insensible and 
 deceitful operations of vice, which wear 
 the mask of innocence, and gradually in- 
 sinuate themselves into favour ; which nei- 
 ther create alarm, nor awaken suspicion, 
 till they have made a fatal progress in 
 our affections ; till they have sapped the 
 very foundation of virtue, and contami- 
 nated every motive of action and thought. 
 The documents of morality are, however, 
 sufficiently clear ; and it requires no great 
 extent of capacity to prove, or to com- 
 prehend, that an act of deception is an 
 act of dishonesty. Those, therefore, whose 
 sentiments of honour are so relaxed, as to 
 allow them, without repugnance, to cheat 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 393 
 
 at cards, must be of a mean and sordid 
 disposition ; and, if they are restrained from 
 the commission of crimes of a greater 
 magnitude, it can only be from the dread 
 of chastisement or retaliation. 
 
 This day has been employed in mak- 
 ing preparations for our departure, which 
 I ardently hope will take place to-morrow; 
 for Galatz has nothing to recommend it, 
 neither the beauty of the country, nor 
 the manners of its inhabitants. They are 
 ail Greeks, and, considering the short 
 interval which has elapsed since their mis- 
 fortunes, the life which they lead is sin- 
 gular. Their chief occupations are sing- 
 ing, dancing, fiddling, and drinking. 
 Even those who keep shops are so ad- 
 dicted to idleness, that they shut them up 
 at an early hour, and are frequently absent 
 in the middle of the day. These thoui^ht- 
 less people are carried away by an attach- 
 ment to dissipation and pleasure, which no 
 misfortunes can stifle or control. They 
 will pursue them in spite of every ob- 
 stacle. The fascinating enjoyments of 
 
 VOL. I. 2 E 
 
394 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 love or wine, or the more trivial amuse- 
 ments of dance or song, can, whilst they 
 last, erase from the tablets of recollection 
 the galling chains of power, or the vexa- 
 tious tyranny of avarice. Gaiety is, no 
 doubt, an enviable possession. It is de- 
 lightful to feel in ourselves : it is delightful 
 to behold in others. There are few dispo- 
 sitions of temper which so strongly fasci- 
 nate the imagination, or more easily com- 
 municate themselves to the heart. Yet 
 there are surely situations which ought, at 
 least, to moderate its influence ; and, when 
 we see it indulged to excess among the 
 miseries of oppression, or the ruins of de- 
 solation, we are not disposed to cherish a 
 very high regard for its votaries. 
 
 Moldavia is, on the whole, a fertile 
 country, diversified with hill and valley, 
 well watered w^th rivers, and produces 
 grain and wine, and an abundance of honey 
 and wax. It once formed a part of the 
 splendid empire of the Chagans, and, in 
 later days, has experienced many violent 
 revolutions, having been overrun several 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 395 
 
 times, in the course of the two last cen- 
 turies, by the Poles and Russians. At 
 present, it is governed by a prince, who 
 purchases his appointment of the grand 
 seignor, at an exorbitant price, which, 
 however, does not secure him the enjoy- 
 ment of it ; for he is generally deposed be- 
 fore the expiration of many years, to make 
 way for a new bidder. The inhabitants, 
 who are Christians, acknowledge the Greek 
 patriarch, and have the honour of ranking 
 the illustrious prince Cantemir, the Turk- 
 ish historian, among their countrymen. 
 It is still well peopled, and contains some 
 considerable cities, of which Yassi is the 
 foremost in rank. 
 
 We did not forget the 4th of June 
 after dinner, but drank the king's health, 
 in a bumper of the best wine that money 
 could procure. It was not, to be sure, 
 very capital in itself; but the toast im- 
 parted to it a flavour which enhanced its 
 value. Englishmen, whilst at home, are 
 so familiarized with the blessings of a 
 good king and a free constitution, that 
 
396 TRAVELS 
 
 they frequently appear to be indifferent 
 about their possession ; but when they are 
 in foreign parts, where circumstances are 
 continually arising which lead them into 
 investigation, and dispose them to draw 
 comparisons between the advantages 
 which they enjoy, and those which ob- 
 tain in other countries, they feel a new 
 train of ideas enlighten the mind, and a 
 new train of emotions animate the heart ; 
 and when any particular day arrives, which 
 places these various sensations in a full 
 point of view, and calls them into the 
 plenitude of action, they are as much sur- 
 prised at their past apathy as they are de- 
 lighted with their present sensibility. One 
 of the great advantages, indeed, which 
 accrues to Englishmen from travelling is, 
 that, if they have any observation what- 
 ever, they are, as they extend their know- 
 lege and inquiries, always forcibly im- 
 pressed with the superiority of their own 
 government, and always return to their 
 native land with an additional partiality 
 and veneration for those laws, which se- 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. ^g^ 
 
 cure to them the invaluable treasure of 
 liberty, and invest them with privileges, 
 which no other modern people has had the 
 spirit and perseverance to contend for, or 
 the good fortune to acquire. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
^gS TRAVELS 
 
 LETTER XIX. 
 
 Buchorest, June 14, 1792. 
 
 It was necessary to make so 
 many preparations for our journey from 
 Galatz, that we did not get away till late 
 on the 5th. 
 
 Our waggons formed a very respectable 
 caravan. They were twelve in number, 
 and were drawn by ninety horses*. We 
 had twenty postillions to conduct them, 
 and one of the prince of Moldavia's offi- 
 cers, who had been sent to us on appli- 
 cation, attended us as far as Fokshan, 
 where we arrived on the 7th in the 
 evening. 
 
 * Mr. Vanderschroef transported a considerable 
 quantity of merchandize from Galatz to Buchorest, 
 which was the reason of our having occasion for so 
 many waggons and horses. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 399 
 
 Notwithstanding we had with us such 
 a numerous train of men and horses, our 
 travelUng expences through this country- 
 were very trifling. Between Smyrna and 
 Constantinople, on the contrary, we found 
 every thing excessively dear, which, how- 
 ever, may be easily accounted for, from 
 the number of European travellers who 
 frequent that road, and who have intro- 
 duced many of those charges to which 
 they have been accustomed in their own 
 countries. 
 
 This route was considerably out of our 
 way; but Vanderschroef, whose hopes were 
 always preposterous, had imagined that the 
 prince would defray his expences, and, on 
 that account, had insisted on this irra- 
 tional plan. He found, however, when 
 an explanation took place, that he had 
 been mistaken in his calculation, and I 
 was not displeased, when I heard of his 
 disappointment. It was a just punish- 
 ment for his obstinacy and credulity, which 
 were a continual source of vexation, in- 
 convenience, and delay, to the whole party. 
 
400 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 The road, leading from Galatz to Fok- 
 shan, is tolerably good; but the villages 
 we passed through were miserable in the 
 extreme, and had all suffered, more or 
 less, from the inhumanity of the Rus- 
 sian troops. The inhabitants were wretch- 
 edly clothed, and the only provisions, 
 with which they could supply us, were 
 bad bread and a few eggs : even these, 
 we could not procure in abundance. We 
 found the climate cold and inconstant, 
 the weather generally changing two or 
 three times a day, and the face of the 
 country, in most parts, resembles that of 
 Bulgaria, being very naked and level, and 
 consisting chiefly of pasture land. 
 
 On the 7th, in the morning, we crossed 
 the Serret, and stopped to dine at a village 
 called Surai, which, though composed of 
 but a few huts, possesses a situation that 
 does credit to the taste of its founder. 
 Near it there is a dehghtful little wood, 
 refreshed by several limpid streams, and 
 abounding with beautiful shrubs, and a 
 great variety of wild flowers, some of 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 4OI 
 
 which I have collected, and will shew to 
 you on my return. I think you will ad- 
 mire them as much as many of the plants 
 in our hot -houses, which are reared with 
 so much care, and cultivated at so great 
 an expence. 
 
 Fokshan is a large borough, and is re- 
 markable for standing in the two princi- 
 palities of Moldavia and Walachia. A 
 rivulet, which runs nearly through its 
 centre, forms the boundary of these two 
 provinces, whose princes regard each other 
 with mutual jealousy, and exact the most 
 rigid observation of their respective prero- 
 gatives. As an instance of the foolish extent 
 to which this point of privilege is carried : 
 If a man, in one district, commit any crime 
 whatever, and, by passing the rivulet, can 
 effect his escape into the other, before the 
 magistrates can secure him, his person is 
 inviolable. This, it must be owned, is a 
 most unwarrantable and impolitic custom, 
 the more especially as the two provinces, 
 though not under the same government, 
 appertain to the same empire. Even if 
 
 VOL. I. 3 F 
 
403 TRAVELS 
 
 they were not united by any such close 
 connexion, the observance of a practice so 
 immoral in its tendency, and so mischie- 
 vous in its consequence, would be still 
 liable to much reprobation. It might, in 
 some measure, be extenuated; but it could 
 not be justified : for no country should 
 hold out an encouragement to vice, by 
 affording it protection ; but, on the con- 
 trary, should exert its utmost power and 
 influence in bringing to justice that offen- 
 der, who has violated his duty as a citizen, 
 and grievously transgressed those funda- 
 mental laws of society which it is evidently 
 the interest of every community vigilantly 
 and strictly to maintain. 
 
 Fokshan is also an interesting spot, on 
 account of a dreadful battle which was 
 fought under its w^alls in the month of 
 August 1789, between the Russians and 
 Germans on one side, and the Turks on 
 the other. The Turkish army, which was 
 in considerable force, had been sent by the 
 grand vizir Hassan, under the command of 
 the pacha Mehmct, in the view of sur- 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 403 
 
 prising, and cutting off, the Imperialists, 
 who were encamped in the neighbourhood 
 of this town : but the sudden arrival of 
 Suwarrow, not only prevented the realiza- 
 tion of his hopes, but terminated in the 
 total defeat of the Ottomans*. 
 
 I neglected to mention, in its proper 
 place, a circumstance which occurred on 
 our journey to Rassovat, and which di- 
 verted us exceedingly. One day, whilst 
 our oxen were grazing, a wrestling match 
 took place between two of our guides. 
 It was no sooner proposed, than our he- 
 roes sprang from the turf on which they 
 were reposing, and consented to display 
 their strength and agility. In a minute 
 they were stripped, and the contest, which 
 
 * The Austrlaiis, on this occasion, were com- 
 manded by the prince of Saxe-Coburg, the Russians 
 by the inexorable, but invincible, Suwarrow. Su- 
 warrow, who was posted about ten German miles off, 
 at the earnest solicitation of the Austrian general, 
 who was in a most critical position, arrived by a 
 forced march, which was performed with wonderful 
 celerity. The day after the junction was efTectcd, 
 the Turks were attacked, and defeated. 
 
404 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 proved a very keen one, immediately be- 
 gan. Both the champions seemed to exert 
 themselves with all their might, and to 
 dispute the prize of honour with exalted 
 notions of its value. They were, how- 
 ever, so well matched, both in point of 
 alertness and nerve, that notwithstanding 
 the convenient hold which was furnished 
 by the immensity of their breeches (for, in 
 spite of the fashionable phrase, it would 
 certainly be a perversion of terms to call 
 them small clothes) y a long and obstinate 
 struggle ensued, before one of the oppo- 
 nents was overset. The fortune of the day 
 was then decided, and, parting friends, 
 they reassumed their gravity, returned to 
 their respective occupations, our oxen 
 were again yoked, and we proceeded on 
 our journey. 
 
 Fokshan, for Turkey, is a neat town, 
 and the country, which surrounds it, is 
 diversified and fertile. On the Walachian 
 side, which is in a high state of cultiva- 
 tion, there is a mountain, at the distance 
 of about four leagues, on which such a 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 405 
 
 prodigious quantity of wine is grown, that 
 although it is sold at the low rate of two 
 paras* the oke-j^, and the prince claims 
 but ten per cent, on the gross amount, it 
 yields him an annual income of one hun- 
 dred thousand piastres. This luxuriant 
 spot also furnishes an abundance of ex- 
 cellent timber, which is an article of ex- 
 tensive traffic, being carried in boats to 
 Galatz, and thence in larger vessels to 
 Constantinople, where it is bought up for 
 the purpose of making masts. The Rus- 
 sians are the principal purchasers and con- 
 sumers of the wine. 
 
 On the 9th, in the morning, a pacha 
 of three tails, who had been long ex- 
 pected, passed through this town. He 
 entered it with great pomp, attended by 
 a gorgeous train of six hundred horsemen, 
 with colours flying, and music playing, 
 amidst the silent and solemn admiration 
 
 * A para is a little more than a halfpenny, twenty 
 of them making a shilling. 
 
 t An oke is S^lb. Both wine and oil pay duty by 
 the weight. 
 
405 TRAVELS 
 
 of the trembling inhabitants. His band 
 of martial music was composed of drum- 
 mers and fifers, and a few players on the 
 cymbal, who had no notion of the powers 
 of harmony, and whose chief merit con- 
 sisted in making a great noise. The car- 
 riages, which contained his women, were 
 closely covered, and supported by mules, 
 to which they were fastened by means of 
 long poles. He himself was seated in a 
 clumsy coach, and had all that marked 
 contempt and self-sufficiency in his coun- 
 tenance, which a consciousness of autho- 
 rity, added to a want of merit, generally 
 imprints ; but it is the fortune of rank to 
 receive the tribute of outward respect from 
 the bulk of mankind, and flattery adheres 
 as naturally to power as envy to merit. 
 He had been three weeks on the road from 
 Buchorest, diffusing horrour, and exciting 
 concealed detestation, wherever he passed. 
 Terrour preceded his appearance, and, to 
 compliment him, the Christian standards 
 were displayed, and a great crowd of people 
 was collected to do him homaee. 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 407 
 
 The pachas, on their march, frequently 
 lay waste a whole province. They com- 
 mit acts of the most shameful plunder; 
 levy enormous contributions ; and seize on 
 provisions for their own use, without ever 
 thinking of offering the most trifling com- 
 pensation. So entirely is the people at 
 their disposal, that they have nothing to do 
 but to tremble and submit. These petty 
 tyrants are invested with an uncontrolled 
 power of life and death, which they never 
 allow to remain long in inaction ; but, 
 exercising it according to the fluctuations 
 of their interest, they alternately render 
 it the instrument of misery and destruc- 
 tion. Unacquainted with the dictates of 
 mercy and benevolence, no appeal to hu- 
 manity is listened to ; but prerogatives, 
 which, if unabused, and impartially ad- 
 ministered, are calculated to contribute to 
 the peace, the security, and the happiness, 
 of society, are made subservient to the most 
 brutal passions, and are, by the total dis- 
 mission of mildness and justice, converted 
 into the scourges of the human race. 
 
408 TRAVELS 
 
 Yet what can be the enjoyments of the 
 most absolute despot? He may, it is true, 
 inspire fear ; he may enforce submission ; 
 he may desolate a country, and satiate his 
 cruelty, or his revenge, by the distresses of 
 its inhabitants; he may plunder without 
 resistance, and torture without reproof: 
 all this, nay more, he may accomplish with 
 impunity. But can happiness be derived 
 from the practice of vice or the diffusion 
 of woe ? Is there no such thing as an ac- 
 cusing conscience ? Is there no such sensa- 
 tion as mental disquietude ? Can a man 
 fly from the bitter reproaches of his heart ? 
 Can he arrest the hated activity of his 
 thoughts ? Can he completely extirpate the 
 sentiments of feeling, and deaden the ope- 
 rations of reflection ? No ! These various 
 principles will, at times, intrude, and in- 
 form him how base, how mean, how 
 despicable, he is. 
 
 How the false lustre of such a station 
 is obscured by the virtues of the honest, 
 upright man ; whose good offices are pro- 
 portioned to his means ; whose bosom 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 
 
 409 
 
 is warmed with the pure emotions of ge- 
 nerosity ; who glories in the extension of 
 benevolence ; and who knows no plea- 
 sure so exquisite, as that of imparting 
 consolation and relief! His happiness is 
 uniform ; Ms satisfaction is solid ; and, al- 
 though not clothed in the purple, or armed 
 with the authority, of tyrants, he possesses 
 the love, the esteem, the veneration, of his 
 fellow-creatures. O ye great ! profit by 
 the example of those whom you consider 
 as your inferiors ; be convinced that you 
 are no more, in the eye of God, than other 
 men ; learn therefore moderation ; and 
 practise virtue. 
 
 During our residence at Fokshan, we 
 received frequent visits from the governor 
 of the Moldavian side of the town, who 
 was a polite, well-bred man, and afforded 
 us every assistance in his power. He spoke 
 Italian fluently, and in conversation was 
 intelligent and communicative. He had 
 travelled in the civilized parts of Europe, 
 and had learnt enough of their policy and 
 internal government, to entertain but a 
 
 VOL. I. ^ G 
 
410 TRAVELS 
 
 mean opinion of the political maxims, or 
 public institutions, of his own country. 
 
 One of the evenings, whilst we were 
 detained here, we went to a Greek chris- 
 tening, the father and other relations of 
 the child having previously waited on us, 
 to beg our attendance, and also, to solicit 
 Madame Vanderschroef to stand godmo- 
 ther, to which she immediately consented. 
 The ceremony, which lasted about an 
 hour, was performed, in the literal Greek, 
 by one of the papas or priests, who read 
 with great solemnity. In point of devo- 
 tional forms, it, in most respects, resem- 
 bled the Roman Catholic service on these 
 occasions. The chief difference was, that 
 the Greek ritual requiring immersion in- 
 stead of sprinkling, the poor little inno- 
 cent had a complete ducking. It is, in- 
 deed, the opinion of many, that immersion, 
 in the primitive ages of the church, was 
 universally practised, and that the custom 
 of sprinkling originated in cold climates, a 
 considerable time after the first establish- 
 ment of Christianity. To a long list of 
 
THROUGH TURKEY. 4I I 
 
 names, which the Greeks consider as a 
 mark of distinction, that of Madame 
 Vanderschroef was subjoined. 
 
 On the eve of our departure, one of the 
 prince of Walachia's officers arrived, who, 
 supplying the place of the Moldavian, at- 
 tended us to Buchorest. The principal 
 use of these officers, is to procure you 
 lodgings wherever you pass the night ; for, 
 in this part of the world, there are no inns, 
 and, without their intervention, you might 
 generally apply for shelter in vain. They, 
 however, manage matters without much 
 ceremony, for, being authorized by the 
 prince to turn any person out of his house, 
 the unfortunate vassal never ventures to 
 disobey the imperious summons. I con- 
 fess that my heart recoiled at being obliged 
 to have recourse to this barbarous privi- 
 lege ; and although we always endeavoured 
 to satisfy the ejected tenant by the gift ot 
 some money, I still thought it a hard lot 
 to be reconciled to, and could not help de- 
 ploring the necessity of the case. Amongst 
 the most stupid and uninformed, ideas of 
 
415 TRAVELS, &C. 
 
 property must obtain, and they cannot 
 avoid perceiving, that nature has given 
 them an absolute right over what they 
 have acquired by the labour of their hands. 
 They may be trained to submit to many 
 sufferings and abuses without repining, yet 
 there are proceedings at which they must 
 revolt, which carry with them the legible 
 characters of injustice, and which no mind, 
 however abject, can possibly misappre- 
 hend. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
 END OF THE FIRST VOLUME, 
 
 T. Benfley, Printer, Bolt-Court, Fleet-Street, London. 
 
DUE DATE 
 
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 in USA 
 
COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES 
 
 0023891980 
 
 940.98 
 H919 
 V. 1 
 
 
 JUL 1 2 1963