COLUMBIA LIBRARIES OFFSITE HEALTH SCIENCES STANDARD HX00033936 FOR THE E S I FOODS FOR THE FAT: A TREATISE ON CORPULENCY AND A DIETARY FOR ITS CURE. BY NATHANIEL EDWARD DA VIES, Member of the Royal College of Surgeons, England. AMERICAN EDITION. EDITED BY CHARLES W. GREENE, M.A., M.D. PHILADELPHIA: J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY. 1889. Copyright, 1889, by J. B. LipPiNCOTT Company. CONTENTS, Intkodtjctort PAUK V PART I. CoEPtTLENCY . - - - Paragraphs Pood Required, Amount of - • „ Food i its Uses and Ultimate Elimination ,, Uses of Fat in the Body - • -,, Evils of Over-eating, and Time for Me^ls ,. Amount of Food to be Consumeu - ,. Exercise Stimulants in CoRPULENcrif Tea: its Use Coffee „ • - Cocoa - - - Water and Aerated Drinks, etc. 1—13 14-41 42—52 53—64 65—69 70-75 7tH-86 87—96 97—105 106—108 109 110—113 9 13 21 24 27 28 29 32 34 37 38 38 PART TT. Meat, Fish, Vegetables and Fruit Suitable for Fat People • Examples of Dietary . - • 114—125 40 46 CONTENTS. Soups Fish Gra.vy Dinner Dishes Vegetables Saccharin Fruits, Jellies, and Cream"* Beverages Sauces foe Fish, Meats- itA\ Index - " - ?AGE PaTapraph« 126—170 50 ,. J / 1—194 63 .> Hj— 224 72 - ' 81 »• •^•25— iiftn 81 1 > 287—334 101 • • 115 j> 335— 3G1 116 >» 3G2— 375 123 )» 376-401 126 . . • 133 AMERICAN INTRODUCTION. That the reduction of corpulency does not necessarily in- volve any great hardship to the patient will appear from the study of the following pages. Excessive fatness is to be looked upon as a disease and treated as a disease. It proves, however, when judiciously managed, to be ordinarily a dis- ease not remarkably stubborn or resistful to the means of cure. The systems of diet recommended respectively by Banting, by Oertel, and by Ebstein have all been shcrwn by practical tests to have very considerable objections. The life of the obese man under treatment by either of these systems is likely to become a burden. Deprived to a great degree of some of the chief enjoyments and pleasures of life, his patience is put to a severe test ; and very often he is com- pelled by sheer hunger, and consequent weakness, to forego further treatment, and consequently to go on burdened by his own returning and increasing corpulency. The present book shows in plain and unscientific language a new and better way. It is perfectly possible, and not very difficult, to go on eating — and eating very well indeed — and yet be cured of excessive stoutness. If the patient be at all well-to-do, he will be able, from these pages, to select for himself a dietary that he and his friends can enjoy together, if need be, while yet he is slowly and safely reducing his sur- plus of fat. The author has provided for his patients bills of fare which an epicure need not despise, and which to most readers will seem positively luxurious, but which may be relied upon iv AMERICAN INTRODUCTION. as certain to reduce corpulency safely, pleasantly, and not too slowly. With regard to the calendar of foods in their season (pp. 40-45), it must be observed that our American seasons vary greatly from the English, for which reason the English tables here given will hardly serve as a perfect guide to the forma- tion of an American dietary. Our range of market-garden products is much greater than that of the English, and our vegetables (thanks to the Southern market-gardens) are very much longer in season than theirs. On the other hand, there are very few places in the United States which have so rich or so constant a supply of desirable game and fish as that of our British cousins. This calendar is, however, permitted tO remain very nearly as in the English edition, for it is full of suggestions which may be turned to good account in this country. Very many of the recipes, pp. 50-132,- will be found extremely useful to the householder, apart from their special value in the treatment of obesity. Not a few of these dishes are comparatively unknown in American cookery. INTRODUCTORY. What constitutes rolDust health ? A sound constitution and a lithe, active frame may truly be the answer, for without these the power of enjoying life, even under the most favourable circumstances, is to a great extent limited. If this be true, there are a large number of people of both sexes whose pleasure is to a considerable extent curtailed — though they may be in other respects fortunate — by the fact that their condition is incompatible with perfect health, and that their bulk renders exercise difficult, and in extreme cases impossible. The mode of life and dietary of the ordinary Englishman, especially when middle age is reached, undoubtedly tends to foster an accumulation of fat, that, if it does not destroy life directly, does so in very many cases indirectly, by preventing the victim from taking the exercise necessary to circulate the blood, keep the skin acting, and prevent congestion of those internal organs which by their free and healthy action eliminate the waste products of the system. The disease of Corpulency — for a disease it is — creeps on so insidiously and slowly, and the individual becomes so entangled in its toils, that he or she finds, when it becomes necessary to grapple with it, the power to do so curtailed, and ▼1 INTRODUCTORY. the effort of taking the necessary steps so burdensome as to be practically impossible or too painful to continue. Happily for such people, science comes to their aid, and, without curtaihng very much the pleasures of the table, the diet may be so arranged that, without any danger to health or length of life, a person may slowly and safely reduce bulk and fat to a degree compatible with enjoyment. How may this be done ? A medical adviser who says to the victim of corpulency, 'You must avoid a diet containing sugar and starch ' — the principal fatteners — generally gets the reply, * But, doctor, I don't know what do ;' for the ordinary individual does no^ make dietetics a study, and the reply is periectiy true in vhe majority oi cases. The victim purges and starves himself for a few days, doing serious harm, and making the remedy worse than the disease ; or he consults some quack, who reduces his balance at the bank, but not his corporeal redundancy. Under these circumstances, life becomes a burden, and if the victim be well-to-do — and generally he is — he is debarred the pleasures of huntmg, fishing, shooting, and all other enjoyable outdoor exercises. The intention of this little work is to explain as plainly as possible how fat is accumulated in the system, and the foods that form it in excess ; and also to give the sufferer a choice of dishes and foods for each meal that will not add to his discomfort, but, if persevered in, will reduce him to proper dimensions. Care has been taken to allow just that amount of food containing fat and starch that is well within the limit of safety. The task of the dietitian is made easier now a substitute for sugar has been found in saccharin, a harmless product three hundred times sweeter than siigar; and the author, from INTRODUCTORY. vii personal expenm,ents, can assure the reader that for all house- hold purposes where it has been necessary to use sugar, such as in tea, coffee, punch, negus, jellies, stewed fruits, apple- sauce, mint-sauce, etc., saccharin is a prefect substitute. As a dietary that produces fat often produces biliousness and its attendant evils, those who suffer from this ailment may by availing themselves of the foods herein contained avoid much trouble. The author as a medical man has frequently seen the need of a work of this kind, for diet is as necessary as physic in the treatment of disease, and a dietetic guide relieves the busy practitioner of the tedious process of naming all the articles which the invalid or the sufferer from corpulency may indulge in. Sheeboene, August^ 18^^. FOODS FOR THE FAT. PART /. CORPULENCY. 1. Of all the evils to which humanity is subject as middle-age creeps on, there is not one more common than excess of fat, or one that causes greater discomfort, or indirectly tends more to shorten life. In men this begins to show itself between the ages of forty and fifty, in women a few years earlier, and though it may not be a disease in itself — unless it attains enormous proportions — it often induces disease by impeding the victim from taking that exercise that nature demands to stimulate the functions of the difierent organs that keep the body in robust health. 2. About a twentieth part of the weight of the male body should be of fat, and of the female a little more, but it is seldom the balance is so evenly kept. Even where this is greatly exceeded, some people manage to enjoy life and to take a certain amount of exercise, at least in youth ; for Daniel Lambert weighed some 450 pounds at the age of twenty-three years, and could then walk from Woolwich to London ; sub- sequently he attained the enormous weight of 739 pounds, and died at the age of thirty-eight years. * Dr. Warrel re- cords the case of a young married woman, who at eighteen was thin and delicate. She died at the age of fifty-two. The thickness of fat on the chest was four inches, on the abdom.cn 10 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [3. eight ; her heart, after death, weighed thirty-six ounces (ordi- nary weight, eight).' Thus in extreme cases one half, or even four- fifths, of the body may be a mass of fat. 3. Some races of men are more subject to excess of fat than others, but whether this depends upon heredity or mode of Kfe is an open question. After the age of forty, particularly in women, from reasons that may be surmised, excess of fatbecornes almost the rule. This is more common in single females than in those who have had the care of rearing families. Again, the Hottentot is almost always protuberant, the German is proverbially fat, and the Frenchman generally so about the belly ; the Scotch are thin as a rule ; so are the Irish. What the Englishman is may be judged by the satire of the a,se, and the jolly John Bull sort of man depicted in the pages of Punch may be supposed to represent the national tendency. 4. Among the determining causes of corpulency, the first is, of course, excess of food, more especially certain hinds of food, and too little work, though some people, curiously enough, may be very fat and still have poor appetites ; some seem to get fat, eat what they will,* while others remain thin ou the most luxurious diet. Drink has also its influence. Fat people usually take a large quantity of liquid, and in some of its forms, as in sweet wines and malt liquors, it is very fattening. 5. Deficient muscular exercise, by diminishing the amount of wear of tissue (oxidation of tissue, as physiologists call it), favours obesity ; and since, as a rule, the stouter the person, the less capable he is of taking exercise, these two conditions react one upon the other to the advantage of fat-production. Nervous influence has much to do with fat ; the high-strung, nervous individual is seldom obese. On the other hand, the stupid, heav}^ non-intellectual person, or the idiot, is generally flabby and fat. 6. All those states of the system that prevent the proper circulation of the blood favour obesity, by limiting its oxy- * Very jjlai7i diet may mean very fattening diet indeed, as will be seen further on. lo.] CORPULENCY. ii genizing power, by preventing its conversion into carbonic acid and watpr, and its elimination from the system by the breath. In this way exercise, by rapidly circulating the blood through the lungs, gets rid of fat from the system.* 7. The power of enjoyment is limited in the corpulent person, as exertion is attended with breathlessness, which forbids active exercise. Then, as a matter of course, follows con- stipation (as the muscular tissue of the bowels gets flabby), and piles and varicose veins come to add to the victim's discomfort. The fat man often ails without apparent cause, is more liable to cold and diarrhoea due to the plethoric and congested state of the mucous membranes, and, dependent on a congested state of the system, to giddiness, headache, flushed face, and a bloated countenance. 8. * The mental activity,' says Dr. Allchin, ' of the over-fat is variable, and many external causes tend to modify it ; but the temperament is proverbially easy-going, indolent, and lethargic, especially after meals, although very frequently interrupted by attacks of peevishness and irritability, or by unusual somno- lence and quiet. Examples, however, of considerable intellec- tual attainments are not unknown among the corDulent,' ^. The fat :nan is liable to profuse sweati»T>- This, being highly acifl, causes chafing in the groins, with painful eruptions. Where this takes place, the parts become sore and inflamed. He is also more subject to gout, and his urine always contains uric acid to excess ; therefore, the same may be said of his liability to rheumatism. He is more liable to disease than a thin person, with this disadvantage, that ailments in him run a more unfavourable course, and he bears treatment worse. Further, he is more difficult to treat on account of his inability to stand lowering measures, and suffers from dela'lity longer during convalescence. 10. When too much food is indulged in, the internal organs * See •Aids to Lon^ Life,' by the same author, pajn'e 193. From thnt work part of this Fection has been drawn. The evils of corpulency and other causes of premature decay are treated at length in that book. 11 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [ii- become embarrassed by the waste in the system that is not eliminated, and a feeling of weakness ensues, which quickly passes away if exercise is taken and a little abstinence prac- tised. Diet influences the ch racter of men and nations, meat-eating people being more energetic and stronger than those that live mostly on vegetables.! Growth and tempera- ment are also influenced by food, and in the case of bees even the sex. I 11. With age corpulency increases permanently, unless some exhausting disease such as chronic bronchitis or diabetes come on, so that excessive fat should always be regarded as a grave matter, in every way likely to shorten life, to say nothing of making it a burden by its encumbrance. Death by faintness from an overloaded heart or an overloaded stomach, by apoplexy from congestion and weakness of the blood- vessels, by bronchitis or dropsy from poorness of the blood and the languid state of the circulation, often terminates life about the beginning of the sixth decade. 12. ' Eecognising that accumulation of fat is a perversion of nutrition, which, if once established, and with a strong heredi- tary predisposition, cannot be cured, it follows that we should endeavour to prevent as far as possible its increase by avoid- ance of those factors which science tells us are favourable to its development. The cardinal rule in any procedure that may be adopted is to avoid heroic treatment; for though thereby the fat may be diminished, the result may be attained by establishing a worse state of the body.' * * Dr. Dalt'm states that the entire quantity of food* required every twenty-four hours by a man in full health and taking free exercise is of meat 16 oz. , bread 19 oz., fat 3^ oz. , and water 52 oz.' Jackson, the prize-fighter, in training lived on meat and stale bread only, with of course wat er. ' f This applies with equal force to animals. The lion and tiger are stronger, fiercer, and more active than the ox or the sheep. J ' If by accident the queen bee dies or is lost, the working bees (which are sexually undeveloped) select two or three eggs, which they hatch in large cflls, and then feed the maggots m a stimulating jelly different to that supplied to the other maggrota, thus producing a queen bee.' — Nkwsholmb. 14.] CORPULENCY. 13 13. The following, then, are the objects aimed at in the rules inculcated and the diet laid down in the following pages : . 1. To improve by exercise the muscular tissue, and by diet to keep the muscles of the body in tirm fibie and tone. 2. To maintain the blood in its normal and healthy com- position. 3. To regulate the quantity of fluid in the body, by freeing tne action of the skin and kidneys. 4. To prevent the deposit of fat, by eliminating from the diet an excess of those articles which create it, but are not otherwise useful in the economy. 5. To allow quite sufficient food, and even many luxuries, so as to satisfy the cravings of nature and the wants of the system, and to do this in a gradual, harmless manner, f FOOD REQUIRED, AMOUNT OF. 14. * It may fairly be concluded,' says Dr. Pavy,J ' that the requirements as regards food vary with exposure to different conditions. According to the expenditure that is taking place, so in a good scheme of dieting should materials be supplied which are best calculated to yield what is wanted. Under exposure to hard labour and inactivity, and to a high and low temperature, the consumption of material in the system differs, and the supply of food should be regulated accordingly.' * Luigi Cornaro, a Venetian gentleman of the seventeenth century, after a wild }outh wliich destroyed his health, restored himself after the age of forty to perfect hetdth by a most rigid diet. He had each day a careful allowance of 12 oz. of food — bread, meat, and yolk of egg— and 14 oz. of light Italian wine. He wrote his book at eighty-three, and lived on his hermit-fare imtil nearly a hundred years old, and enjoyed excellent health. His wife, who we may presume fared in the same manner, lived nearly as long. f A friend of the author's proposes fitting up a sanatorium for treating sufferers from corpulency, dieting in the manner recommended in this work. X ' Food and Dietetics,' by JF. W. Pavy, M.D. J. and A. Churchill, London. 14 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [i^. 15. * The laws of nature,' he continues, ' are such as to con- duce to an adaptation of the supply of food to the demand. We are all conversant with the fact that exercise and exposure to cold — conditions which increase the demand for food — sharpen the appetite, and thus lead to a larger quantity of material being consumed, while conversely a state of inactivity and a warm climate tell in an opposite manner and reduce the inclination for food. A badly-fed labourer is capable of per- forming but a slight da3's work, and a starving man falls an easy victim to the effects of exposure to cold, 16. ' Practically it is found that hard work is best performed under a liberal supply of nitrogen-containing food {i.e., meat). The reason is that it leads to a belter nourished condition of the muscles and the body generally. Under the use of animal food which is characterized by its richness in flesh-tormiug matter, the muscles are observed to be firmer and richer in solid constituents than under subsistence on food of a vegetable nature ;' and it is also obvious that under animal food there is not that danger to corpulency which obtains under a vegetable diet, unless from thai vegetable diet be eliminated those particular' articles that contain too large a percentage of sugar and starch. To sum up, science teaches us that a liberal supply of meat is necessary to maintain muscles in a good condition for work, as exercise is to make them firm and red, and the result of experience tends to confirm it. 17. None the less is it necessary to limit a meat diet and dilute it with a proper admixture of vegetable and other material, and only where it becomes a question of reducing corpulency does it matter what vegetable is taken for this purpose or relatively the amount. In these pages those vegetables only are given the percentage in which of the fattening principles is not in excess of what the system can bear. A large and varied choice still remains to satisfy the ep'.cure and the gourmet. 18. In any dietary for the reduction of corpulence, it is necessary to bear this in mind, that there is a limit beyond 21.] FOOD REQUIRED, AMOUNT OF. 15 which it is not safe to go, and under no circumstances should the loss of weight exceed one pound per week. If this should be so, the diet is not properly adjusted with regard to its con- stituents, but is simply slow starvation, a result not aimed at in these pages, or desirable. 19. Let us proceed to consider the amount of mixed food necessary to sustain life, health, and strength under different circumstances. This can be calculated to a nicety, but the amount taken must have some relation to the amount of muscular work that the individual is called upon to exercise, the season, and a few other surroundings.* 20. It will be asked, What is the ordinary amount of mixed food an ordinary-sized person should take? An average healthy male adult of medium weight and height, and per- forming a moderate amount of work, requires 4 J oz. of nitrogenous food,t 3 oz. of fats (hydro-carbons) , 14|- oz. of carbo-hydrateS; I 1 oz. of salts. This diet is equivalent to a little over 46 oz, of moisl solid food. 21. The above ingredients would be contained in f of a lb. of meat and a little less than 2 lb. of bread, or in 17 hens' eggs of ordinary size, supposing eggs only were eaten, which it is needless to say would be impossible. * Prison diet where hard labour is done consists of 184 oz. of solid dry food per week. This 184 oz, is made up of meat, bread, cocoa, oatmeal, milk, treacle, barley-meal, salt, cheese, flour, suet, carrots, onions, potatoes, Tliis would mean about 52 oz. of moist food per day ; for of course the water is not reckoned when the amount of food is chemically considered. Banting's dietary is about 10 oz. a day of dry food, which is bare subsis- tence diet, but it contains a large prcfportion of muscle-forming ingredients too large for continued safety. t This embracts meat of all sorts — eggs, milk, and certain constituents of vegetables. X Carbo-hydrates mean bread, sugar, and all vegetables containing starch and sugar. i6 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [22- 22. Dr. Lyon Playfair has estimated the quantity of diet required under varying conditions of work as under : Subsistence only Quietude Moderate exercise Active work Hard work Nitrogenous. Carbonaceous. 20 oz. 2-5 „ 4-2 „ 5-5 „ 6-5 „ 13-3 oz. 14-5 „ 23-2 „ 26 3 „ 26-3 „ 23. It- Will thus be seen that subsistence diet would be re- presented by about 28 oz. of ordinary moist food per day, and bard work diet by about 60 oz. of the same, and here we will taKe the amount of food allowed by those who, like Banting, form a dietary for the reduction of corpulency. 24. It is admitted that the human body decreases in fat if the daily food consists of the three great gro^jps of food in the following proportions : Albuminous food about 4J oz., Fatty food 1| oz., Starchy food (carbo-hydrates) 5| oz. This means, under ordinary circumstances, about 22 oz. of moist food daily, and this is not sufficient in amount for safety. 25. Banting, Ebstcin, and Oertel, the three men whose .systems have been largely adopted for reducing obesity, advocate the different foods in the following proportions : Albuminous. Fat. Carbo-Hydrates. Bantinjj ... ... ... Ebstein ... 1 Oertel 1 6 H 5i to 6 o 24 to 3i 26. • In taking appetite as a guide in regulating the supply of food,' says Dr. Pavy, ' it must not be confounded wiih u 29.] FOOD REQUIRED, AMOUNT OF. 17 desire to gratify the palate. When food is not eaten too quickly and the diet is simple, a timely warning is afforded by the sense of satisfaction experienced as soon as enough has been taken, and not only does a disinclination arise, but the stomach even refuses it if this amount be far exceeded. With a variety of food, however, and especially food of an agreeable character to the taste, the case is different. Satiated with one article, the stomach is still ready for another, and thus, for the gratification of taste, and not to satisfy appetite, men are tempted to consume far more than is required, and also, it must be said, far more than is advantageous to health.' 27. Hospital diet furnishes a fair estimate of what is neces- sary under ordinary circumstances, and, taking Guy's as an example, it is found that the daily allowance is 29^ oz. of solid food, apart from the liquids supplied. This amount would represent 16J oz. of water-free material. The food actually supplied consists of 4 oz. of cooked meat, ],2_oz. of bread, 8 oz^of^tatoes, 1 oz. of butter, f oz. of sugar, ^ oz. of tea, and"3J oz. of rice-pudding, made of rice, sugar, and milk. There is also a daily allowance of J pint of porter and 2|- oz. of milk. This diet is suflficient for the wants of the system under a condition of freedom from labour. 28. Supposing this quantity of food were used for the re- duction of fat it would have to be given something in this way, and this will show the difference in the constituents of the food according to the use it is required for : 12 oz. of meat (see page 28), 3 oz. of butter, or fat, 4 oz. of bread, or dry toast, 10 oz. of vegetables, J oz. of tea (sweetened with saccharin), 2 or 3 oz. of milk, and, instead of porter, a pint of claret, or other light wine (bee page 33), daily. 29. In this case the above amount of food would be divided 2 l8 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [.^o- into three meals — breakfast, lunch, and dinner ; or breakfast, dinner, and tea, according to the habits of the individual -•- and the amount of starchy or farinaceous feci is here so limited as even in extreme cases to be practically harmless. 30. A diet of this kind would be unendurable if there were no variety ; but the endeavour of the author has been to give a large variety, once more reminding the sufferer that food formed on this basis requires a larger amount of exercise to keep the system in health than does the ordinary every-day diet of ordinar} people. 31. Taking Mr. Banting's system first. The diet for re- ducing corpulency advocated by him is now considered to have been wrong, for it threw too much work upon the kidneys and starved the system elsewhere. Banting and his ideas have passed into well-merited oblivion. 32. The Ebstein formula, which has many adherents in Germany, consists in very much restricting the food eaten, giving a large portion of fat, and curtailing those articles of diet that contain sugar and starch, his theory being that fat assists in the body, by its transformation into heat, in elimi- nating other materials. It is not believed now that fat creates fat. It is believed that by its combustion in the economy it keeps up heat, and at the same time oxidizes waste ; in short, it acts much in the same way as, in a railway-engine, the fuel acts which is used in stoking. 33. The system of diet advocated by Oertel not only pro- vides for the gradual decrease of fat, but also prevents its reaccummulation, and at the same time restores tone to the heart, muscular and nervous systems, which excessive cor- pulency much impairs. 34. A very moderate curtailment on this system will be sufficient to reduce a corpulent person to resj^ectable dimen- sions, if at the same time active riding or walking exercise be taken. Kecieation, by improving the cjualUi/ of the blood, as well as by circulating it more rapidly, assists the oxidation — i.e., the consumption of tissue, especially of fatty tissue — and 38.] FOOD REQUIRED, AMOUNT OF. 19 that it does this may be shown by the fact that exercise absolutely increases the size of muscles, while it is at the same time reducing weight. 35. There is really no difficulty in reducing corpulence. The difficulty is to get the sufferer — generally easy-going and in- dolent — to carry out the necessary system, which is more or less irksome by the restraint it puts upon appetite, especially in those who perhaps may almost be said to 'live to eat' in- stead of ' eating to live.' It is also needless to say that any sy.-tem, however good, for reducing redundancy of fat would be of no avail if the patient persists in eating and drinking between meals.* 36. Oertel draws two distinctions of obesity, namely, the slight form in which the organs of circulation are unaffected ahd where exercise is possible, and the more serious form, in which fat is deposited in the muscle of the heart, which is thereby dangerously weakened, and, as a corollary, the healthy action of all the other organs in the body is interfered with. 37. All who have made the treatment of obesity a study reduce considerably the amount of farinaceous food and sugar, the great offenders in contributing to the accumulation of fat ; but all do not allow the same amount of aliment, and some of the dietaries — Banting's, for instance — would be simp'y slow starvation to a man who had to do an ordinary amount of hard mental or bodily work. 38. ' From 22 to 26 oz. of solids and about 35 oz. of liquids per day constituted Mr. Banting's allowance. If we allow for water chemically combined with the food, the daily amount of solids may be set down at from 11 to 13 oz.' Now, this is far from a generous allowance, even if it were of the most fattening materials, and no wonder he got thin on it. The diet tables of prisons, of London needlewomen, and that of the cotton operative during the Lancashire cotton famine, * See 'Aids to Long Life,' by the same author. Chatto and Windus, London, pp. 283. 2—2 20 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [39- of fat, f oz. averaged, of nitrogenous matter (meat), 2*30 oz and of starches and sugars, 11 J oz. 39. Moleschott gives 23 oz. of dry food as about the average a healthy man during ordinary work ought to eat ; this would be equal to nearly twice the amount of moist food. Assuming that this large amount of food were deprived of the great fat producers — sugar and starch — it is not too much to say that, with a fair amount of work, there would be no great fear of a person becoming obese on it. A very big man might find it a proper diet. 40. The following figures show what should be the relative height and weight of a person of adult age in good health : EXACT ft. 5 STATURE. in. 1 St. - 8 MEAN lb. 8 WEIGHT, lb. or 120 5 2 - 9 )5 126 5 3 - 9 7 55 l;^3 5 4 - 9 13 ») 139 5 5 - 10 2 » 142 5 G - 10 5 J) 145 5 7 - 10 8 J) 148 5 8 - 11 1 >) 155 5 9 . 11 8 )) 162 5 10 . 12 1 >> 169 5 11 . 12 6 >J 174 6 - 12 10 JJ 178 41. It reads thus : a man in his clothes, of 5 feet 8 inches, should weigh 1 1 stone 1 lb. ; he may exceed this by 7 per cent, and so attain 11 stone 12 lb. without affecting his vital capacity ; beyond this amount his respiration be- comes diminished.* * Among the Asiatics there is a sect of Brahmins who pride themselves on their extreme corpulency. Their diet consists of farinaceous vegetables, milk, sugar, sweetmeats, and ghee. They look u]()n corpulency as a sign of opulence ; and many arrive at a great degree of obesity without tasting anything that has ever lived. 45. FOOD: ITS USES AND ULTIMATE ELIMINATION, 21 FOOD : ITS USES AND ULTIMATE ELIMINATION. 42. Popularly, we speak of the products we oat to supply the wants of the system as ' food ' and ' drink,' and the ordinary individual does not care to analyze further the meaning of the words ; but, to the chemist, they have a far broader meaning, and in his hands their different properties and uses in the system are worked out, and in this way, by the light of his knowledge, we are able to show what effects on the animal economy certain foods produce, either for good or harm. 43. The chemist broadly divides foods into two classes. These are known as The Nitrogenous and the Non-Nitrogenous. The nitrogenous class of foods are those which form the essential basis of structures possessing active or living proper- ties, and the non-nitrogenous principles may be looked upon as supplying the source of power — in other words, if man were looked upon as a steam-engine, the nitrogenous food would form the iron, brass and works of the engine, and the non- nitrogenous would be the coal or any other fuel used in generating power. 44. Now what constitutes nitrogenous food 1 The answer is : meat of all kinds, gelatine, eggs, milk, and certain con- stituents of vegetables, such as gluten, vegetable fibrine and caseine. 45. As life consists in the constant renovation and decay of living tissue, and as living tissue, i.e., the body, is made up of nitrogenous matter, it is therefore absolutely necessary for all the operations of life, and is the instrument of living action, and out of it are formed bone, muscle, nerves, etc. 22 FOODS FOR THE FAT. , [46- 46. Non-nitrogenous"^ food consists of fats, starch — the basis of bread and all farinaceous foods — sugar, alcohol, and certain vegetable matters. These principles are found either naturally or are produced by chemical action. These constituents are used in the animal economy to keep up the heat of the body, generate power, and when not consumed or eliminated from the system, to be stored up as fat. 47. Again, taking a railway-engine as an illustration, it is plain that if rapid speed is recpiired, and a great weight has to be drawn, a greater amount of fuel must be consumed. So, in like manner, if hard work has to be done for many houis a day, a greater amount of. food must be taken, and this is consumed in the human body in renovating the tissues and generating the force and heat according to the nature of the food used and its amount. 48. That this is the case may be instanced by this fact amongst many. In making the railway from Paris to Rouen, it was found that two English were equal to three French navvies. An examination of the cause disclosed the fact tliat the former were fed on large quantities of m€at,f while the latter ate chiefly soup and lentils. The diet of the Frenchmen was altered to the English standard, with the result that the inequality soon disappeared. 49. Occupation, season and climate greatly influence the amount and kind of food necessary. The inhabitants of cold climates require a large amount of fat J and in the spring, as vital processes are more active, more food is required. On * Chemists further divide this into hydro-carbons, or fats, and carbo- hydrates, such as starch, sugar, etc., fats being principally heat-producers, and sugar and starch power-producers. This of course is a rough analysis. + ' Nitrogenous food in this way forming the instrument of living action is incessantly being disintegrated. Becoming thereby effete and useles:*, a fresh supply is needed to replace that which has fulfilled its office. Tlie primary object of nitrogenous alimentation may therefore be said to be the development and renovation of the living tissues.' — De. Pavy. X A.n Esquimaux will eat 10 lb. or 12 lb. of blubber daily ; and their children will make wry faces at sugar, but eat blubber with delight. 52.] FOOD: ITS USES AND ULTIMATE ELIMINATION. 23 the other hand, muscular work demands a larger supply of nitrogenous food, i.e., meat.* 50. It will thus be seen that as in the human body certain foods produce muscle, energy, force, and power, others, by their chemical decomposition, furnish material for the pro- duction of heat. It is plain that if more is used than is con- sumed in these ordinary operations of life, or is excreted by the bowels, kidneys, and lungs, it must remain in the system contaminating the blood — as with gout-poison — or equally out of place, and equally destructive to comfort, as fat. 51. On the equable assimilation and excretion of these different classes of food depends the health and comfort of the individual ; but from faulty diet, heredity or mode of life in many persons, the balance is not equally held, and the waste that should be excreted, or consumed by exercise or work, becomes stored as fat.t 52. ' The rich may go and have their flues swept out at such places as Carlsbad, Marienbad, Kissingen, and Ems, where the meagre diet and quantity of water drunk (because it is the correct thing to do and the fashion, and because example has such influence for good or evil in this world) will soon reduce their superabundance of unhealthy tissue to limits compatible with health and enjoyment. But the middle class victim of obesity and gout must be content, if he would enjoy life and live to an advanced age, to take the advice of Socrates, where he says, " Beware of those foods that tempt you to eat when you are not hungry, and of those liquors that tempt you to drink when you are not thirsty," and make dietetics his study to the extent of learning what foods he should indulge in, and what quantity he can take without ultimate discomfort.' * The trappers of the American prairies can live, and do live, for weeks on tneat and tea only. t Lord Byron undervalued David Hume, denying his claim to g^^nius on account of his bulk, and calling him from the Heroic Epistle ' the fattest hog in Epicurus'ssty.' Another of this extraordinary man's allegations was that 'fat is an oily dropsy.' To stave off its visitations he frequently chewed tobacco in Hhu of dinner, alleging that it absorbed the gastric juices and prevented hunger. — 'Rejected Addresses,' by James and Horace Smith. 24 FOODS FOR THE FAT. l53- USES OF FAT IN THE BODY. 53. Though excess of fat is an evil and an encumbrance, it must not be forgotten that a twentieth part of the male body should be of this substance, and a sixteenth part of that of the female. This may be slightly increased without interfering with the breathing capacity or the comfort of the individual. 54. A moderate amount of fat is one of the signs of health, and is certainly an adjunct to beauty of face and form, and its uses in the animal economy are many and various. In the first place, it serves the merely mechanical purpose of a light, soft, and elastic packing material, which, being deposited between and around the different organs, affords them support and protection from the injurious effects of pressure. Further, being a bad conductor of heat, the fat beneath the skin serves to some extent as a means of retaining the warmth of the body. 55. But the most important use of fat is seen in w^hat occurs during the process of nutrition ; for when more fat-forming material is taken into the system than is absolutely required for the maintenance of the body, it is stored up and laid by to become available for use when the expenditure exceeds the immediate suj^ply. 56. When tiie direct supplj^ of nourishment is cut off, by withholding it, or by the interruption of the process of digestion, nature has recourse to that which has been laid up in reserve in the form of fat. As everyone knows, in the wasting of the body which ensues as the result of starvation, fat is the first part consumed.* But it has been found by * On the 14th of December, 1810, a pig was buried in its sty by the fall of part of the chalk cliflf under Dover Castle. On the 23rd of May, 160 days afterwards, Mr. Manttll, the contractor, was told by some workmen employeii in removing the fallen chalk that they heard the whining of the pig, and although he had great doubt of the fact, he urged them to proceed with clearing away the chalk from the sty, and was soon afterwards surprised to see the pig extricated from its confinement alive. At the time of the accident the pig was in a fat condition, and supposed to have weighed about 160 lb. When extricated it presented an extremely emaciated appearance, and weighed no more than 40 lb. 6o.] USES OF FAT IN THE BODY, 25 experiment that life cannot be sustained on fat alone. A duck fed on fat only died of starvation at the end of three weeks. Batter, it is said, exuded from all parts of its body, and the feathers seemed as if they had been soaked in melted butter. Similarly animals fed on fat and arrowroot mixed will die of starvation, or on meat alone ; but if hone be given with the meat, it is sufficient to support life for any length of time. This is the reason why wild animals in confinement have bone given them with their meat. 57. The following experiments made will show what part the different constituents of food play in the economy. A couple of rats, which had been nearly brought to the verge of death by restriction to starchy matter and fat, were fed with bread and meat for four days, and then with meat alone. A week after commencing the meat their united weight was 9 oz. IJ dr., and three weeks later 10 oz. 1 dr. Being now placed on a diet of meat with non-nitrogenous food (starch and fat), a notable improvement occurred ; for in three days' time they weighed 11 oz. ; four days later, 14 oz. 2 dr. ; and a week later still, 14 oz. 4 dr. 58. In another experiment, two rats, weighing 12 oz., were placed on an exclusive diet of lean meat and water. They remained healthy in appearance, but steadily lost weight, and in a month's time weighed only 8f oz. They were now placed on a miscellaneous diet, and in a week's time weighed 12i oz. 59. In a third experiment two rats, weighing together 12 oz. 7 dr., were kept upon meat diet exclusively. On the thirteenth day one of the rats died, the weight of its body being 2 oz. 8 dr., and that of the other 6 oz. 3 dr. The living one was still kept on the same food, and this died ten days later, the weight of its body being then 5 oz. It will thus be seen that meat alone will not sustain animal life for an indefinite period. 60. What the uses of fat are in the food will be found else- where, but we may remark here that it sustains the heat of the 26 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [6i body. The Esquimaux eat fat as we do bread. Dr. Pavy, in his work on 'Dietetics,' says : ' Travellers have dilated on the large amount of food consumed by the inhabitants of cold, as compared with that consumed by those of temperate or hot climates. Accounts are given which almost appear incredible regarding the enormous quantities of food devoured by dwellers in the Arctic regions. Thus Sir John Eoss states that an Esquimaux "perhaps eats twenty pounds of flesh and oil daily." Sir W. Parry, as a matter of curiosity, one day tried how much food an Esquimaux lad, scarcely full-grown, would consume if allowed his full tether. The food was weighed, and, besides fluids, he got through in twenty-four hours 8^ lb. of flesh and If lb. of bread, and " did not consider the quantity extraordinary." ' 61. Sir George Simpson, from his travelling experience in Siberia, says : ' In one highly important particular the Zakuti may safely challenge the rest of the world. They are the best eaters on the face of the earth.' Having heard more on this subject than he could bring himself to believe, he resolved to test the matter by the evidence of his own senses. He pro- cured a couple of men who had, he states, a tolerable reputa- tion in that way, and prepared a dinner for them, consisting of 36 lb. avoirdupois of beef and 18 lb. of butter. 62. By the end of an hour they had got through a half of their allowance in Sir George Simpson's presence. Their stomachs at this time projected ' into a brace of kettledrums.' They were then left in charge of deputies, and Sir George was assured, on returning two hours later, that all had been con- sumed. He remarks that after such surfeits, the gluttons remain for three or four days in a state of stupor, neither eating nor drinking, and meanwhile are rolled about with a view to the promotion of digestion. 63. ' He who is well fed,' remarks Sir John Eoss, ' resists cold better than the man who is stinted, while the starvation from cold follows but too soon a starvation in food.' He says further, ' All experience has shown that a large use of 6;.] EVILS OF OVER-EATING, AND TIME FOR MEALS. 27 oil and fat meats is the true secret of life in these frozen countries.' Sir Jolin Franklin also states : ' During the whole of our march we experienced that no quantity of clothing could keep us warm while we fasted ; but on those occasions on which we were enabled to go to bed with full stomachs, we passed the night in a warm and comfortable manner/ 64. These remarks will show that the use of fat is not so much to make fat as to keep up the heat of the body by its combustion, and as also to act as a store-house of fuel to draw upon, when required for the operations of life. EVILS OF OVEE-EATING, AND TIME FOE MEALS. 65. There is far more harm done by taking too much food than there is by taking too little, and it is only in very ex- ceptional cases that injury results from the latter cause ; whereas an enormous amount of discomfort, disorder, and disease, and even curtailment of life, arise from excess in eating and drinking. Where the individual lives plainly and simply, and only obeys the cravings of nature to the extent of satisfying them, there is no need for weights and scales ; but how many are there not, who would be far more comfortable and more healthy if they lived upon a measured amount of food and drink ? 66. There are many other evils beyond corpulence that result from excess in eating, and a badly arranged dietary. Among them may be mentioned a deranged digestion, a loaded tongue, an oppressed stomach, vitiated secretions, a gorged liver, plethora and its consequences, a sluggish brain, with horrible dreams during sleep, and depression when awake. 67. Excess in animal food is as bad as excess in vegetable, if it is combined with an indolent mode of life. Whereas excess of vegetable food of certain kinds leads to obesity, excess of animal food, if not accompanied by exercise, leads to the accumulation in the system of the materials that form gout. 28 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [6S- 68. As man is designed by nature to consume a mixed diet, we may proceed to consider when and at what intervals food should be taken. The ordinary custom is that three meals should be taken daily, at intervals of five or six hours apart, and this has been found by experience to be best suited to our requirements. This allows a short period of quiescence for the stomach. The size of the meal should be regulated ac- cording to the estimate given on page 17, always having regard to the fact that increased muscular work will allow for increased diet. 69. Sex also and age influence the amount of food required. A woman on the average takes a tenth part less than a man ; and during growth more food is necessary to minister to the bodily functions, which are then more active, as well as to supply materials for increase. After forty, the diet, if long life is to be enjoyed, should be sparing. AMOUNT OF FOOD TO BE CONSUMED. f 70. To prevent the accumulation of fat in those of this pre- disposition, the following system of diet should be pursued : 71. Breakfast. — One large cup of tea or coffee, with a little milk and one or two saccharine tabloids,"^ with 2 or 3 oz. of bread or dry toast, very thinly buttered, or, instead of butter, 3 or 4 oz. of any light meat or fish, contained in breakfast dishes. 72. LuKCH OR Dinner. — An ordinary dish of any soup found in the section devoted to that aliment; 7 or 8 oz. of roast or boiled meat, fish, or any meat dish that may be chosen in the following pages ; an ordinary amount of any vegetable given under that head ; a small plate of any non-farinaceous pudding, whicli see ; and 5 or 6 oz. of any fruit, if cooked, ■••■■ These may be procured at a moderate cost, in any of our larger cities, from the leading druggists and dealers in chemists' supplies, and should be used by the corpulent with all things that require sweetening. f See page 46. 79-] AMOUNT OF FOOD TO BE CONSUMED. 29 sweetened with saccharine, with six or eight ounces of any light wine, such as claret.* 73. Evening Meal. — Tea, coffee, as at breakfast, or 6 to 8 oz. of light wine, diluted or not ; dry toast, or a little bread,! with boiled eggs, fish, or any meat dish that may be chosen ; and, as a nightcap, a glass of whisky and water, with a few gluten biscuits, taken just before retiring to rest. 74. This diet, it is needless to say, may be increased if the subject does a large amount of daily work, but in the same ratio of quality of food. The reader may refer to Dr. Lyon Playfair's table given in page 16. 75. Indeed, the case may be considered a sad one, if even a very liberal allowance of the cookery in these pages may not be taken with impunity and a gradual reduction of weight, EXERCISE. 76. In the treatment of corpulency this is of the greatest importance. The muscle of the heart is strengthened by enforced exercise, and the waste of the system burnt off. 77. The nutrition of the muscles is improved by exercise. The blood which they contain is increased, and in consequence of this increased afflux of blood and the more rapid disintegra- tion going on in the muscles, they become harder and larger, and better able to bear fatigue. 78. The action of the skin is increased, and by perspiration the effete matters in the system are got rid of. The vital capacity of the lungs is increased by exercise. Digestion becomes more perfect where exercise is indulged in, and the nervous system is improved in nutrition and power. 79. Dr. Parkes, a well-known authority on the amount of * See section on Wine, page 33. f Several well-known American manufacturers prepare a gluten bread suitable for fat people, as well as other similar specialties — soups, fruits, gluten biscuits, etc. It may be mentioned that gluten bread or gluten bis- cuits do not contain anxy fattening principles, as the starch of the farina is carefully eliminated. 30 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [So exercise desirable, says the average daily work of a man engaged in manual labour in the open air is equivalent to liftins: 250 to 350 tons one foot hio;h. This is a moderate amount, 400 tons being a heavy day's work. The amount of muscular work involved in this may be easily known by remembering that a walk of 20 miles on the level road is equivalent to about 353 tons lifted one foot; and that a walk of 10 miles is equivalent to lifting 247 tons one foot high.* 80. * We may estimate that every healthy man ought to take an amount of exercise represented by 150 tons raised one foot, which is equal to the work done by walking 8| to 9 miles on a level road. A certain amount of this exercise is taken in performing one's daily work ; but apart from this, outdoor exercise should be taken daily equivalent in amount to a walk of 5 or 6 miles. Less than this is not compatible with robust health.' 81. Exercise should be systematic and regular, not taken by fits and starts, and in corpulent people should be increased gradually. The under-clothing should be of flannel, and chill should be guarded against. Lawn-tennis in summer supplies the best form of exercise. Walking uphill strengthens the heart, and the distance and speed should be increased as palpitation subsides. 82. Eiding exercise, where practicable, has a stimulating action on the liver and skin, and may be considered the best form of all exercise. Rowing is also an excellent mode of taking exercise. The more muscles that can be brought into play the better. 83. Exercise should not be taken immediately after food, nor should the individual who is anxious to reduce corpulency gratify the desire for a nap. It is well to have recourse to some light mental or bodily employment, such as billiards, chess, etc., to obviate its occurrence; 'but,' as Dr. Pavy remarks, ' with a natural state of things, there ought to be * Newsholme, 86.] EXERCISE. 31 no strong desire to sleep after a meal.* If there be such, it may be concluded that some fault exists. Sleeping aftei' meals may arise from a sluggish state of the liver or kidneys. In this case medical treatment is called for. 84. When any living part is called into frequent and regular exercise, especially if the system is not yet arrived at full maturity, it is observed to become gradually more and more susceptible of action — to increase in size within certain limits, determined by the constitution, and thereby to gain strength, as indicated^.by an increased power of enduring fatigue and a greater capacity of withstanding the influences of the com- mon causes of disease, to which previously it would have almost immediately succumbed. 85. The explanation of this, as proved by experiment, is that exercise causes an increased action in the nerves and bloodvessels of the part, by which its vitality is augmented and a greater supply of blood and nervous stimulus is sent to it to sustain and repair the greater waste that is taking place, and also to supply additional substance to fit it for the unusual demands made on it. The results of this process are visibly exemplified in men whose habits or profession lead them to constant muscular exertion — in sportsmen, in blacksmiths, dancers, porters, etc., for instance; and if it is less manifest in other 'parts of the body beyond the muscles in view, it is only from other tissues admitting of less expansion and showing their increased power in a ditferent way. 86. Unless exercise in its ordinary sense be taken, neither respiration nor circulation can fully accomplish the purposes they are intended to serve. Life subsists through a series of motions, and all these should be maintained in regular and adequate exercise ; by so doing the food necessary to sustain the system is taken up, and all that is not required is excreted by the different organs that act independently of the will, so that the balance is evenly kept, and none in unnecessarily stored as fat. 32 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [87- STIMULANTS IN CORPULENCY. 87. What part does alcohol, in its various forms, play in the dietary 1 Chemists who have investigated the effect of alcohol on the system have come to the conclusion that it is not Sifood, and does not in any way make flesh or tissue, but in some cases it seems to increase the value of other foods taken. Whether pure alcohol increases or diminishes fat is still a moot point. Some physiologists believe that it assists in eliminating waste products, while others hold that it has no eff'ect of this kind whatever, and that it passes out of the body unchanged. 88. That it is injurious beyond a certain amount is certain, and that amount is represented by about a sixth of a pint of spirits, about half a pint of sherry, or a pint of claret or other light wine daily. As alcohol is contained in all wines and fer- mented drinks, experiments prove that to the other consti- tuents of these beverages we must look for their fattening properties — thus, in wine, to the sugar; and in ale, stout, and other fermented liquors, to the sugar and starch they contain. 89. That beer and stout are unsuited to fat people there can be no question. That the English and Germans who drink ^ largely of beer are more inclined to be corpulent than the Scotch or Irish, who drink more of spirits, is a well-known fact. The stronger beers taken to excess in people of a corpulent habit are also apt to lead to the development of gout and biliousness. 90. It becomes a question now to consider the least in- jurious form in which alcohol may be partaken of by those who require it, or think they do so. To the ordinary indi- vidual, good wine, properly matured, in moderate quantity, is a harmless and exhilarating drink ;* but to those of a corpu- * Especially does this apply to that period of life when the powers of elimination are declining, and the individual, from the exigencies of age and failing strength, is unable to take the active exercise necessary to con- sume the waste products of the body. 94.] STIMULANTS IN CORPULENCY. 33 lent habit of body, certain wines are a slow poison, and it becomes necessary in a work like this to say a few words on so important a subject. 91. The deleterious wines for people constitutionally dis- posed to stoutness are those which contain sugar, either by arrest of fermentation or by the addition of sugar, and these are, as a rule, the products of hot countries. In France, Germany, or Hungary, etc., where a cooler climate prevails, fermentation occurs with less rapidity, and is allowed to proceed till it comes to a spontaneous termination. 92. ' Here, then, the transformation of saccharine matter is permitted to go on until it is quite, or nearly lost, and in con- sequence there is produced a drier or less fruity wine, and one which takes less time to mature.' Wines of this class develop a stronger bouquet and a more acid flavour, and they are admitted to be in every way more suited for stout people of sedentary habit. The wines of the Ehine and the Moselle are noted for the aroma they pjossess, and the greater amount of acid they contain, and their freedom from sugar. The same applies to some of the wines of the South of France known as clarets and burgundies. 93. Burgundies suit best those who require an excess of alcoholic strength ; but they do not keep well, and sometimes undergo a second fermentation, through mouldiness in the bottle. The grand old vintage wines, such as Chambertin,* Glos Vougeot, etc., are sufficiently alcoholized not to decompose, but their strength and price do not fit them for ordinary consumption. The peculiar odour of wall-flowers is character- istic of the choicer burgundies, but they are necessarily of high price. 94. The choice Ehine wines — moselle, chablis, chateau Yquem — bear carriage badly and are best drunk in their own country ; but there are j^lenty of good claret and light wine brands to which this does not apply. The wines to be * The great Napoleon drank this wine, but he was an exceedingly abste- mious mitn. '3 34 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [95- avoided are sweet wines, such as port, sherry, champagne, tokay, madeira, etc. 95. The wine-drinker, if he is subject to obesity or gout, places his health and comfort in the hands of his vrme, merchant. So he should choose one of known probity, whose good name would be too valuable a heritage to lose by palming off adulterated wines and poUoaous new spirits for the sake of present profit. 96. Always remembering that a pint of light wine daily should not be much exceeded, the corpulent person may with his soup drink a glass of sauterne ;* with his fish a glass of Rhine wine, such as Erbach or Steinberg, ; with his meat or game a glass of burgundy, and with his cigar after, some weak whisky or cognac and water, or tea or coffee sweetened with a tabloid of saccharin. TEA : ITS USE. 97. Tea is not food, and should not be taken as such. Tea taken three or four hours after dinner is valuable, for this is the time that corresponds with the completion of digestion, when, the food having been conveyed away from the stomach, nothing remains but the acid juices employed in digestion. These acid juices create an uneasy sensation in the stomach, and a call is made for something to relieve this uneasiness. Tea fulfils this object better than stimulants ; more than this, it satisfies some unknown want in the system. This refers to the moderate use and enjoyment of tea, but there is a large class who drink an enormous quantity of this beverage, to the undoubted impairment of their health. 98. Those who take it to excess are found principally among the poor. They become pale and bloodless, much * The wines recommended by the author are kept by numerous American dealers in our larger cities. Be sure to purchase of parties whose wares may be trusted to be what they are represented. loi.] TEA : ITS USE. 35 given to faintness, nervousness, and depression of spirits, and suffer excessively from flatulence and loss of appetite. This is no doubt partly due to poisons used to colour and adulterate it. Many women ruin their digestive powers by taking large quantities of weak tea three or four times a day. One form of indigestion caused by tea deserves special notice, as it is commonly observed by medical men : the appetite is unim- paired, and no particularly unpleasant sensations are felt after meals, but almost as soon as food is taken it seems to pass out of the stomach into the bowels, causing flatulent, colicky pains, speedily followed by diarrhoea. Hence, there is a constant craving for food and a feeling of sinking and prostration. 99. In some instances, these symptoms only occur in the morning ; in others, they follow every meal, and lead to serious loss of flesh, and also to alarm. It is needless to say the remedy is to take less tea, and add plenty of milk to it, or for a time to change to coff"ee or cocoa. In moderate quantity, tea exerts a very decidedly stimulant and restorative action on the nervous system, which is aided by the warmth of the infusion, and is particularly useful in over-fatigued conditions of the system, and under these circumstances it is infinitely preferable to alcoholic drinks. Lord Wolseley considers it is the best drink for exhausted soldiers after a long march. ■ 100. The harmful eff'ects of tea depend a great deal on the way it is made. If it is allowed to infuse too long, the tannin and other injurious ingredients of even the best tea are drawn out, and the infusion becomes bitter and astringent, and un- pleasant to the taste. To make tea properly, the teapot should be warmed, and the water poured over the tea im- mediately it boils. Five teaspoonfuls of mixed tea should be put to each quart of boiling water, and it should draw for eight minutes. Professional tea-tasters are very particular to use only water which is freshly boiled. 101. In China tea is sometimes infused in a teacup, and sometimes in the cup from which it is drunk. In Japan the o. 9 36 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [102- tea-I eaves are ground to powder, and, after infusion in a tea- cup, the mixture is beaten up until it becomes frothy, and then the whole is swallowed. The Chinese drink their tea in a pure state ; the Russians take it with lemon-juice ; and the Germans often flavour it with rum, cinnamon, or vanilla. In America we know it is customary to add cream, milk, or sugar, but for corpulent people the Russian mode would be the best. 102. The only way by which ordinary people can detect adulteration of tea is by unfolding the leaf after it has been used. In pure tea this is serrated (like the edge of a saw) almost its whole length, and the veins run out from the tendrils nearly to the border and then turn in, so that a dis- tinction is left between them and the border. The leaf may vary in shape and size. The leaves used to adulterate tea are the sloe, hawthorn, beech, and willow. Tea-leaves, when freshly gathered, are destitute of odour and flavour. The pleasant taste and aroma for which they are so highly valued are developed in the process of drying. 103. Either black or green tea may be prepared at will from the same leaves, gathered at the same time and under the same circumstances. It is the lengthened exposure to the air in the process of drying, accompanied by a slight heating and fermen- tation, that give the dark colour and the distinguishing flavour to the black teas of the shops. The practice of scenting teas for the foreign markets is common in China, and many teas, especially green teas, are artificially coloured with Prussian blue, indigo, and burnt gypsum. It is said that one day an English gentleman at Shanghai, being in conversation with some Chinese from the green-tea country, asked them what reason they had for dyeing the tea, and whether it would not be better without undergoing that process. They acknow- ledged that tea was much better when prepared without having such ingredients mixed with it, and that they never drank dyed teas themselves ; but that, as foreigners seemed to prefer having poisonous ingredients mixed with their tea to make it look pretty, and as these poisons were cheap, the lo;.] TEA : ITS USE, 37 Chinese had no objection to supply them, especially as such teas fetched a higher price. 104. Tea being an article of daily and universal use, the following rules should be observed : 1. Don't buy high-priced or highly-flavoured teas, especially if green, as they owe their flavour to noxious matters. 2. Take a good proportion of milk with the infusion. 3. Let the quantity used at each infusion be very moderate. 4. Make the infusion properly with boiling water, and don't let it draw for more than eight minutes. If these rules be followed tea-drinkins: has a con- servative action on the diff'erent structures of the body, checking any disi3osition to too rapid a change in them by wear and tear, and thereby preventing waste of tissue. 105. Teas free from too great an amount of tannin suit weak stomachs best. The Indian and Assam teas as a rule contain a large amount of this ingredient. The author can strongly recommend the new digestive tea (so called), which has been latterly imported to some extent. This agrees with people who cannot drink other teas, such as dyspeptics and those of nervous temperament. COFFEE : ITS USE. 106. * Coffee,' says Dr. Pavy, * is said to have been in use in Abyssinia from time immemorial, and in Persia from a.d. 875. It was used in Constantinople about the middle of the sixteenth century, in spite of the violent opposition of the priests, and in 1554 two coffee-houses were opened in that city. It was intro- duced into Europe in the seventeenth century. It was drunk in Venice soon after 1615, and brought into England and France about forty years after.' 107. Like tea, coff'ee produces an invigorating and stimu- lant effect, without being followed by any depression, and fully justifies the estimation in which it is held. It increases the action of the pulse, and is more heating than tea, while at the same time it arouses the mental faculties and so dis- 38 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [io8- poses to wakefulness. To make the infusion properly 2 oz. of freshly-ground coffee should be used to each pint of boiling water. 108. Coffee is especially useful to those who suffer from re- dundancy of fat, as it has the power of relieving the sensation of hunger and fatigue, and may be used two or three times a day as a beverage. It has all the advantages of a stimulant without the ill-effects following alcohol in its various forms. It exerts a marked sustaining influence under fatigue and privation, and sustains the strength where a restricted diet is necessary, and this enables arduous exertion to be better borne under the existence of abstinence or a • deficiency of food. COCOA. 109. Of this article, as a dietetic for fat people, one need say but little, as it is not suitable. It is highly nourishing, and contains a large quantity of oil and some starch. It has, for fat people's use, none of the good qualities of tea or coffee. WATER AND AEKATED DRINKS, ETC. 110. A supply of water in one shape or another is one of the essential conditions of life. It is as important as food, and is required for various purposes in the performance of the operations of life. It forms the liquid element of the secretions, and thereby the medium for dissolving the digested food, and enabling it to pass into the system and the effete products to pass out in solution. 111. The quantity of water required for drinking purposes is found to bear a relation to climate and to the weight of the individual, being nearly half an ounce for every pound, or one and a half gills for every stone weight. Thus a man weighing 150 lb. (ordinarily a man of 5 feet 7 inches) would require three pints and three-quarters ; of this about one-third is 113.] WATER AND AERATED DRINKS, ETC, 39 taken m the food, the remainder, two and a half pints, being required as drink. 112. Where there is a tendency to fat it is not advisable to drink more fluid than is necessary to quench thirst. Soda and potash waters may be taken for this purpose, but no aerated waters that contain sugar, such as lemonade, ginger- beer, and their allies. Eecij^es will be found on pages 123-126 for non-alcoholic drinks, sweetened with saccharin, for such people. During hot weather, even under any circumstances, more fluid is necessary. 113. If a plain and wholesome liquid be drunk, such as tea, cofi"ee, and those recommended under the sections on wine and beverages, the error is not likely to be committed of taking too much. After compensating for what is given off by the skin and the lungs the remainder passes off by the kidneys, and washes away the effete products of the system in a dissolved state. The poison of gout is especially elimin- ated by the kidneys. Gout is one of the commonest complica- tions of corpulency. PART II. DIETETICS AND COOKERY. 114. The following articles of diet may be partaken of by corpulent people. In the case of meats and fish, all superfluous fat should be removed (See American Introduction.) January. Meat. — The lean of beef, mutton, doe-venison. Game and Poultry. — Hares, rabbits, pheasants, partridges, woodcocks, snipes, fowls, chickens, capons, pullets, grouse, wild fowls, turkeys, tame pigeons. Fish. — Turbot, soles, flounders, plaice, skate, whitings, cod, haddocks, herrings, oj'sters, lobsters, crabs, prawns, tench, perch, mussels. Vegetables. — Cabbages, broccoli, savoys, endive, sprouts, Scotch kale, sea-kale, spinach, lettuces, celery, cardoons, salsify, turnips, Jerusalem artichokes, garlic, shallots, mustard and cress, cucumbers, mushrooms. Fruits. — Apples, medlars, currants, grapes, walnuts, nuts, filberts, oranges, lemons.* Especially in Season in January. — Haddocks, whitings, tench, skate, hares, rabbits. February. 115. Meat. — Beef, mutton, venison. Game and Poultry. — Hares, rabbits, pheasants, partridges, * As uncooked fruits contain sugar they should be taken sparingly. ii;.] ARTICLES OF DIET, 41 woodcocks, snipes, pigeons, turkeys, fowls, pullets, capons, chickens, turkey-poults. JFiSH. — Flounders, brill, plaice, skate, soles, turbot, codfish, whitings, sturgeon, haddocks, oysters, mussels, cockles, crabs, crayfish, prawns, shrimps, barbels, perch, pike, tench. Vegetables. — Broccoli, cabbages, Brussels sprouts, savoys, celery, cardoons, lettuces, endive, spinach, sorrel, forced French beans, turnips, and all small salads; tarragon, scorzonera, cucumbers, mushrooms. Fruits. — Apples, grapes, oranges, pomeloes, shaddocks, almonds, nuts, chestnuts, walnuts, figs, currants, filberts. Especially in Season in February. — Skate, dace, turkey- poults. March. 116. Meat. — Beef, mutton, doe-venison. Game and Poultry. — Fowls, chickens, turkeys, pigeons, rabbits, guinea-fowls, woodcocks, snipe. Fish. — Turbot, whitings, soles, plaice, flounders, skate, oysters, lobsters, crabs, prawns, cod, crayfish, mackerel, mussels, trout. Vegetables. — Savoys, cabbages, sprouts, spinach, lettuces, turnips, radishes, Jerusalem artichokes, parsley and other garden herbs, Scotch kale, broccoli, scorzonera, salsify, sea- kale, chives, celery, cress, mustard, sorrel, horse-radish,- rhubarb, shallots, cucumbers. Fruits. — Apples, oranges, forced strawberries. Especially in Season in March. — Mackerel, mullet, skate, whitings, prawns. April. 117. Meat. — Beef, mutton, grass-lamb. Game and Poultry. — Pullets, chickens, leverets, fowls, pigeons, wood-pigeons, rabbits, turkey-poults. Fish. — Brill, cockles, cod, crabs, dory, flounders, halibut, ling, lobsters, mullet, mackerel, mussels, perch, oysters, pike. 42 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [ii8- plaice, prawns, shrimiDS, skate, sturgeon, soles, whitings, turbot, trout ; shad and its roes. Vegetables. — Asparagus, beans, fennel, endive, broccoli, cucumbers, chervil, lettuces, parsley, rhubarb, turnips, sorrel, sea-kale, radishes, spinach, turnip-tops, small salad, parsnips. Fruits. — Apples, oranges, early strawberries, walnuts. Especially in Season in April. — Prawns, crabs, obsters, grass-lamb, asparagus, cucumbers. May. 118. Meat. — Beef, mutton, grass-lamb, calf's liver. Game and Poultry. — Fowls, pigeons, pullets, chickens, wood-pigeons, leverets, rabbits. Fish. — Cod, crabs, brill, flounders, lobsters, mackerel, perch, prawns, plaice, pike, shrimps, whitings, crayfish, gurnet, dory, haddocks, soles, halibut, turbot, trout, shad, shad-roes. Vegetables. — Cabbage, asparagus, kidney-beans, chervil, turnips, spinach, sorrel, sea-kale, lettuces, rhubarb, corn salad, cucumbers, cauliflowers, radishes, artichokes, salads generally. 'Fruits. — Apples, cherries, currants, strawberries, goose- berries. Especially in Season in May. — Prawns, crabs, lobsters. June. 119. Meat. — Beef, mutton, grass-lamb, buck-venison, calf's liver. Game and Poultry. — Fowls, chickens, pullets, turkey- poults, pigeons, leverets, plovers, rabbits. Fish. — Turbot, soles, mackerel, carps, pike, crabs, tench, prawns, lobsters, shrimps, mullet, haddocks, trout. Vegetables. — Cauliflowers, spinach, beans, asparagus, arti- chokes, turnips, lettuces, cucumbers, radishes, cresses, all kinds of salad, sorrel, horse-radish, rhubarb, vegetable-marrows. Fruits. — Gooseberries, currants, cherries, strawberries, apri- cots, peaches, apples, nectarines, grapes, pine-apples. 121.] ARTICLES OF DIET, 43 Especially in Season in June. — Skate, prawns, lobsters, crabs, grass-lamb, vegetable-marrows. July. 120. Meat. — Beef, mutton, grass-lamb, buck-venison, veal. Game and Poultry. — Fowls, chickens, pullets, turkey- poults, tame rabbits, wild rabbits, leverets, plovers, wheatears, wikl chickens, pigeons, wood-pigeons. Fish. — Dace, dory, cod, carp, brill, barbel, crabs, crayfish, flounders, haddocks, ling, mackerel, lobsters, mullet, thorn- back, plaice, pike, soles, tench, gurnet, perch, dabs, prawns, whitings, trout. Vegetables. — Kidney, Windsor, and scarlet beans, as- paragus, artichokes, celery, endive, chervil, lettuces, mush- rooms, salsify, spinach, sorrel, radishes, turnips, salad, peas. Fruits. — Apples, oranges, pine-apples, currants, cherries, damsons, gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries, plums, peaches, nectarines. August. 121. Meat. — Beef, mutton, grass-lamb, venison, veal. Game and Poultry. — Grouse, pullets, fowls, pigeons, turkey-poults, moor-game, chickens, plovers, turkeys, wild pigeons, rabbits, wheatears, leverets. Fish. — Turbot, whitings, dace, dabs, tench, thornback, flounders, perch, haddocks, herrings, lobsters, crabs, pike, plaice, barbel, oysters, prawns, gurnet, brill, cod, crayfish, mullet, mackerel, soles, trout. Vegetables. — French, kidney, Lima, and scarlet beans, artichokes, lettuces, cauliflowers, cucumbers, salsify, radishes, salad, mushrooms, shallots, turnips, spinach, leeks, endive, peas, tomatoes. Fruits. — Apples, plums, peaches, greengages, damsons, cherries, currants, raspberries, gooseberries, nectarines, fil- berts. 44 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [122- EsPECiALLY IN SEASON IN AUGUST. — Turbot, mackerel, pike, perch, prawns, dace, crabs, herrings, lobsters, grouse, greengages, filberts, figs. September. 122. Meat. — Beef, veal, mutton, lamb, venison. Game and Poultry. — Fowls, pullets, chickens, wild duck, partridges, hares, pigeons, rabbits, turkey-poults. Fish, — Cod, haddocks, flounders, plaice, soles, mullets, lobsters, oysters, prawns, carp, pike, perch, tench, herrings, brill, turbot, crabs, dace, trout. Vegetables. — Cauliflowers, cabbages, turnips, peas, beans, artichokes, mushrooms, lettuces, tomatoes. Fruits. — Apples, plums, cherries, peaches, grapes, straw- berries, pines, walnuts, filberts, hazel-nuts, quinces, medlars, currants, damsons. Especially in Season in September. — Pike, perch, lobsters, dace, crabs, mussels, hares, moor-game, partridges, grouse. October. 123. Meat. — Beef, veal, mutton, lamb, venison. Game and Poultry. — Turkeys, pullets, fowls, chickens, widgeons, larks, woodcocks, grouse, pheasants, pigeons, part- ridges, snipes, hares, rabbits. Fish. — Oysters, lobsters, crabs, brill, gurnet, dory, smelts, halibut, gudgeon, barbel, perch, carp, tench, herrings, hake, pike, dace, trout. Vegetables. — Turnips, cauliflowers, cabbages, beans, leeks, spinach, endive, celery, scorzonera, cardoon, parsley, salads, garlic, shallots, tomatoes. Fruits. — Plums, apples, peaches, medlars, walnuts, filberts, nuts, quinces, damsons, pineapples. Especially in Season in October. — Dace, pike, hake, dory, pheasants, partridges, widgeons, broccoli, trufiles, grapes, medlars, tomatoes, hazel-nuts. 125.] ARTICLES OF DIET, 45 NOVESIBER. 124. Meat. — -Beef, mutton, venison. Game and Poultry. — Hares, rabbits, pheasants, partridges, fowls, pullets, turkeys, widgeons, snipe, woodcocks, larks, pigeons, grouse. Fish. — Oysters, crabs, lobsters, dory, soles, smelt, gurnet, brill, carp, barbel, halibut, pike, tench, cockles, mussels, turbot, herrings, haddocks, skate, whitings, cod, dace. Vegetables. — Turnips, leeks, shallots, Jerusalem artichokes, cabbages, broccoli, savoys, spinach, beet, cardoons, chervil, endive, lettuces, salsify, scorzonera, Scotch kale, celery, mush- rooms, tarragon, parsley, salads. Fruits. — Apples, quinces, walnuts, filberts, nuts. Especially in Season in November. — Pike, tench, plaice, dory, grouse, hares, snipes, woodcocks, chestnuts. December. 125. Meat. — Beef, veal, mutton, doe-venison. Poultry and Game. — Hares, rabbits, pheasants, grouse, partridges, woodcocks, snipes, fowls, pullets, chickens, turkeys, widgeons, pea-fowl, larks, capons. Fish. — Sturgeon, turbot, soles, skate, codfish, haddocks, smelts, dory, gurnet, herrings, sprats, oysters, mussels, cockles, lobsters, shellfish, perch, carp, ling, dace. Vegetables. — Cabbages, broccoli, savoys, Brussels sprouts, Scotch kale, sea-kale, spinach, endive, cardoons, lettuces, skirret, salsify, scorzonera, sorrel, turnips, Jerusalem artichokes, celery, shallots, mushrooms, parsley, horseradish. Fruits. — Apples, medlars, figs, filberts, nuts, walnuts, cur- rants. Especially in Season in December. — Haddocks, dace, tench, cod, dory, ling, skate, turbot, capon, pea-fowL 46 FOODS FOR THE FAT. EXAMPLES OF DIETARY. First Day. BreaJcfast, Tea with Saccharin and Cream, or Coffee in the same way. Bread, stale, 2 oz. Mutton Kidneys, fried (126), or Broiled Mackerel (136). Dinner. Julienne Soup (171). Gray Mullet, broiled, with Gooseberry Sauce. Stewed Pigeons and Mushrooms (239), or Roast Rabbit (226). Asparagus, boiled (399). French Beans (300). Claret Jelly (342). Tea or 8upper* Tea with Saccharin and Cream, or some light Wine or weak Spirits-and- water. Dry Toast or Gluten Bread.* Oysters (197). Irish Sandwiches (133). Second Day. Breakfast Tea with Saccharin and Cream, or Coffee in the same way. Bread, stale, 2 oz. Fish Rissoles (151;, or Eggs and Mushrooms (161). * See page 29. f See page 28. EXAMPLES OF DIETARY, 47 Dinner. Pheasant Soup (176). Eoiled Soles (221). Mutton, neck of, boiled (255). Pheasant, Salmi of (247). Mashed Artichokes (323). Green Peas, boiled (305). Damsons, Compdte of (360). Tea or Supper. Tea with Saccharin and Cream, or some light Wine or Lemonade. Dry Toast or Gluten Biscuits. Kidney Omelette (164). Potted Pheasant (168). Third Day. Breahfast. Tea or Coffee, with Saccharin and Cream. Thin Toast, with Indian Devil Mixture (142). Brawn (148). Dinner. Eabbit Soup (187). Whitings, fried (205). Mutton, kebobbed (256). Partridges, broiled (250). Mashed Turnips (310). Curried Tomatoes (327). Stewed Apples (13). Tea or Supper. Tea with Saccharin and Cream, or some light Wine or weak Spirits- and- water. Savoury Omelette (143). Chicken a la Marengo (272). 4$ foods for the fat, Fourth Day, Breakfast. Tea or Coffee, with Saccharin and Cream. Thin Toast or Gluten Bread. Mackerel, boiled (135). Grilled Mushrooms (130). Dinner. Oxtail Soup, clear (175). Crimped Cod (224) with Tartare Sauce (378). Minced Beef (279). Guinea-fowl, roasted (235). Sea-kale, boiled (291). Cardoons, boiled (316). Strawberry Jelly (348). Tea or Supper. Tea with Saccharin and Cream, or some light Wine or Lemonade. Oyster Fritters (223). Lobster, Sauce Mayonnaise (376). Fifth Day. Brealcfast, Tea or Coffee, with Saccharin and Cream. Stale Bread or Thin Dry Toast. Sweetbreads, browned (154). Bloaters (159). Dinner. Giblet Soup. Whitings, aux Fines Herbes (207). Sweetbreads with Piquante Sauce (241). Onions with Beef Steak (263). Spinach with Cream (318). Custard (352). EXAMPLES OF DIETARY, ^9 Tea or Supper. Tea with Saccharin and Cream, or some light Wine or weak Spirits-and-water. Cold Game (385). Sheep's Tongues, stewed (149). Sixth Day. Breakfast. Tea or Coftee, with Saccharin and Cream. Gluten Bread or Thin Toast. Mutton Kidneys, stewed (132). Dried Haddock (162). Dinner. Brown Soup (192). Plaice, filleted (215). Oxtail stewed with Spinach (226). Perdrix aux Yin (244). French Beans (300). Calf's-foot Jelly (338). Tea or Supper. Tea with Saccharin and Cream, or some light Wine or Lemonade, Stale Bread. Lobster Salad (203). Compote of Cherries (349). Seventh Day Breakfast. Tea or Coffee, with Saccharin and Cream. . Gluten Bread or Thin Toast. Kidney Omelette (164). Broiled Trout (170). 4 ^0 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [126- Dinner. Mulligatawny Soup. Smelts, broiled (214), or Sole aux Vin Blanc (219). Kabbit a la Tartare (267). Calf's Liver a la Mode (276). Stewed Lettuce (293). Boiled Turnips (297). Stewed Brunes (340). Tea or Supper. Tea with Saccharin and Cream, or some light Wine or weak Spirits-and-water. Cold Salmi of Bartridges (252). Eggs and Garlic (160). Gooseberry Fool. These menus will admit of a large selection of change, and of a varied mode of life with regard to the meal and the hour of taking it; but at least five hours should elapse between each re[iast, enough being taken to satisfy the appetite, but na more. BREAKFAST DISHES. Mutton Kidneys, Fried. 126. But the kidneys into a frying-pan with an ounce of butter, and a little pepper sprinkled over them. AVhen done on one side, turn for an equal time on the other. Remove to a hot dish, add pepper, cayenne, salt, and a little sauce (Harvey's or any other), and pour the gravy from the pan over them. Serve hot, on thin, dry toast. Time, seven or eight minutes. Mutton Chops. 127. Take chops from the best end of the neck, saw off about four inches from the top and the chinebones. Cut away the skin and gristle from the upper end of the bone, which I30.] BREAKFAST DISHES. 51 will give the cutlet a round, plump appearance. Sprinkle each chop with salt and pepper, dip them separately into dissolved butter, and broil over a brisk fire. A trimmed mutton cutlet of five ounces in weight will require about six minutes to cook. Mushroom Toast. 128. Stew over a gentle fire a quart of nicely-prepared mushrooms (just opened ones), first dissolving one ounce of butter in the stewpan, and seasoning the mushrooms with white pepper or cayenne, a saltspoonful of mace powdered ; stir them carefully, and toss them in the pan to prevent burn- ing and until the butter is dried and slightly brown, when add half a pint of stock, the grated rind of half a lemon, and a little salt, and stew until the mushrooms are tender. Mushrooms (au Beurre). 129. Trim the stems, and rub two pints of button mush- rooms with flannel dipped in salt. Put them in a stewpan with three ounces of good butter slightly browned, and stir them very gently to get the butter well about tbem. Shake the pan over a moderate fire, that the mushrooms may not settle at the bottom. When they have well imbibed the butter, add a little pounded mace, salt, and cayenne, and cover closely by the side of the fire to simmer until tender, when they will be found excellent without any other addition. Serve them hot on thin dry toast. Mushrooms, Grilled. 130. Cut the stalks, peel and score lightly the underside of large mushroom flaps, which should be firm and fresh gathered. Season them with pepper and salt, and steep them in a marinade of oil or melted butter. If quite sound, they may be laid on a gridiron over a slow even fire, and grilled on both sides ; but they are best done in the oven if at all bruised. 4—2 52 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [131- MuTTON Cutlets with Tomato Purine. 131. Trim cutlets from well-hung mutton, beat them into shape after removing the chinebone, dip them into dissolved butter, brush them with egg, and sprinkJe with breadcrumbs. Fry in boiling fat, and turn them frequently during the frying. Put them on blotting-paper before the fire to drain. Have ready a pur^e of fresh tomatoes made as follows : Pick a pound of ripe tomatoes, break them open, and put them without their seeds into a stewpan, with an onion or a couple of shallots, sweet herbs and spice, if liked, salt and pepper ; stir over a slow fire till the tomatoes can be pulped through a hair-sieve ; return the pulp to the stewpan to simmer, add an ounce of butter well worked together in a little flour, and stir in two ounces of meat-glaze. Arrange the cutlets in a circle a little overlapping each other, and fill the centre with the pur6e. Mutton Kidneys, Stewed (k la FRANgAisE). 132. Remove the skins from half a dozen or less fine mutton kidneys and cut them lengthwise into slices a quarter of an inch in thickness. Season each piece rather highly with salt and cayenne, and dip it into some finely powdered sweet herbs, namely, parsley and thyme — two-thirds of the former and one of the latter. Three or four finely minced shallots may be added if liked. Melt a good-sized piece of butter in the frying-pan and put in the kidneys. Let them brown on both sides. When nearly cooked, dredge a little flour quickly over them, add a quarter of a pint of boiling stock or water, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup and the strained juice of hulf a lemon. When the gravy is just upon the point of boiling, lift out the kidneys, put them on a hot dish, and two tablespoonfuls of claret to the same, let it boil for one minute, tl.en pour it over the meat. Garnish with fried sippets. Time, six minutes to fry the kidneys. 136.] BREAKFAST DISHES, 53 Irish Sandwiches. 133. Cut the meat in very thin slices from partridges, grouse or any game that has be(ni roasted, and shred some celery. Lay thy moat on delicately thin fresh toast — it should bo crisp and not tough — strew celery over, and season well with Tartar sauce. Serve in squares on a napkin. Lamb Cutlets, Superlative. 134. Take a tablespoonful of each of the following ingredients, all finely minced: parsley, shallots, mushrooms and lean ham. Put these into a stewpan with an ounce of fresh butter, and stir them over the fire for live minutes. Add a quarter of a pint of sauce, a little pepper and salt, half a dessertspoonful of strained lemon-juice, three grates of nutmeg, and the yolks of two eggs. Stir the sauce over the fire till it thickens, but it must not boil. Partially fry the cutlets, when nearly cold dip them into the above preparation and place them upon ice until the sauce is set. Dip the cutlets in egg, fry, and serve tliem with a puree of spinach or green peas. Time, twenty minutes to fry the cutlets — ten minutes each time. Mackeuel, Boiled. 135. Wash and clean carefully after removing the roes. The mackerel is in its greatest perfection when it has roe. Lay the fish and roes sei);irately into cold water, and to a gallon of water add from three to four ounces of salt, and two tablespoonfuls of white vinegar ; when at boiling-point skim, and simmer only until done. Much depends on the size of the fish. Kemove at once when done, or fiom their great delicacy of skin they will crack if kept in the water. The usual test, when the eyes start and the tail splits, should be attended to. Serve on a napkin with the roe. Mackerel, Broiled. 133. Large fresh fish should be procured for broiling. Clo uise the fish thoroughly and dry in a cloth, or hung up in 54 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [137- the air. Open it down the back, rub the inside with a little salt and cayenne mixed, and smear with clarified butter or good oil. Put it into a thickly buttered paper loosely fastened at each end, and broil over a clear fire, or it may be broihd without the paper, though the former mode renders the fish so cooked more delicate, and not so apt to disagree with the stomach as when exj^osed to the tire uncovered. Mackerel, Broiled, and Tarragon Butter. 137. Eemove the inside of the fish through the gills and vent without opening it. AVash, clean, dry, and make a deep incision down the back, lay the fish in a little salad-oil, keep it well basted for three-quarters of an hour, but cut off the nose or part of the head and tail before it is steeped in the oil. Broil over a clear fire, and when done have ready the following mixture, with which fill up the incision : Work a little butter, pepper, salt and tarragon leaves, chopped and steeped in vinegar together. When ready, serve the mackerel with some of the butter spread over it on a hot dish. Time, from ten to fifteen minutes to broil. Meat Kissoles, German. 133. Fry two or three ounces of bacon cut into small squares, then add the following ingredients : To a well-beaten egg stir a quarter of a pound of well minced cold meat, a quarter of a pound of soaked bread (squeezed dry), a tablespoonful of chopped onion, another of parsley, and pepper and salt to taste. AVhen these ingredients are fried sufficiently, turn them out into a basin until nearly cold, then add a couple of eggs, beat all well together, form the mixture into balls about the size of an egg and fry for six minutes, or drop them into boil- ing soup stock or water; pour gravy over them before serving. Time to make, half an hour ; sufficient for six balls. 141.] BREAKFAST DISHES. 55 Pigs' Kidneys, Broiled. 139. Split the kidneys lengthwise from the rounded part, without separating them entirely. Peel off the skin, and pass a wooden or metal skewer through them to keep them flat. Sprinkle a little jiepper, salt and powdered sage over them, oil them slightl3^ and broil them over a clear fire, the hollow side first, so that the gravy may be kept in when they are turned. Serve on a hot dish, either with or without maitre d'hotel sauce in a tureen. Time to broil the kidneys, four minutes each side, or more according to size. Pigs' Kidneys, Fried. 140. Peel the kidneys, cut them into slices, dip them in clarified butter, and afterwards into a mixture made of two finely minced shallots, two tablespoonfuls of chopped j^arsley, a pinch of powdered thyme, and a little pepper and salt. Fry them in an ounce of butter until they are lightly browned, put them into a hot dish, and mix with the butter two tablespoon- fuls of thick brown gravy, and two tablespoonfuls of claret. Boil the sauce, pour it over the kidneys and serve hot. If no sauce is at hand, take the kidneys up, mix a teaspoonful of flour smoothly into the butter in the pan, add a wineglassful of boiling water, and a dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, a little salt and cayenne and a glassful of claret. Boil the sauce and strain it over the kidneys. Time to fry six minutes. Hunter's Beef. 141. Take as lean a piece as can be procured of the flank of beef — the thin end is the best. Take out the bones and rub the meat well every day for a fortnight with a mix- ture made of one pound of salt, one ounce of saltpetre, one ounce of pounded cloves, and one "grated nutmeg. At the end of the time roll it as closely and firmly as possible, and bind it securely with skewers and tape. Just cover it with water, and boil or bake it for five or six hours. Do not loosen the tapes, etc., until the meat is quite cold. 56 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [142- Indian Devil Mixture. 142. To a tablespoonful each of vinegar, ketchup, and chutney-paste, add an ounce of dissolved butter, a dessert- spoonful of made mustard, salt, and a small cup of good rich gravy. Blend these ingredients thoroughly, and rub them into the meat. Make all hot together slowly. Time, ten minutes to make hot. Savoury Omelette. 143. Beat the yolks of four eggs till almost white ; beat the whites of four eggs for the same time ; beat the two together for five minutes after adding a teacup of milk, some finely- chopped parsley, a dessertspoonful of pickled mushrooms, minced very small, and a teaspoonful of mixed herbs. Add salt and pepper to taste. Beat well. Fry an onion cut in four pieces in some butter, and when boiling take it out before pouring in the omelette mixture. Hold the pan over a clear file, with a fish-slice fold the omelette when fried a light brown, and serve in a very hot dish. Baked Eggs. 144. Well butter some tin patty -pans ; break a fresh e;rg into each; place a lump of butter, some salt, a little cayenne and a little chopped parsley on the top of each. Put in the oven to bake. Fried Soles, or Fried Slices of Cod. 145. Cleanse the fish, and two hours before they are wanted rub them inside and out with salt ; wash and rub them very dry, dip them into egg ; fry them in boiling lard, dish on a hot napkin, and garnish with crisped parsley. Grilled Kippered Salmon. 146. Cut some dried salmon into narrow pi( ces, about two inches wide and four long ; broil them over a clear fire, then i49-] BREAKFAST DISHES. 57 rub them over with fresh butter seasoned with lemon-juice and cayenne. Serve very hot. Devilled Hot Meat. 147. Cut some cold meat in slices, and then rub it with the following mixture : a tablespoonful of ketchup, one of vinegar, two of made mustaid, one of salt, and two of butter, four tablespoonfuls of cold gravy, one of curry-paste ; mix all as smooth as possible. When rubbed with the mixture put it to the grill before a good fire. Take what is left of the sauce and make it warm, and pour over the grill before sending it to table. Brawn. 148. Clean and wash a pig's head of six or seven pounds, and put it into a stewpan with two pounds of lean beef ; cover with cold water, and boil until the bones are easily re- moved, skimming often. Mince the beef and head as fine as possible, but don't let it get coldo Season with fine cloves, a lot of pepper, salt, and cayenne. Stir briskly together, and put into a cake-mould with a heavy weight on the top. Let it stand for six hours. Dip the mould in boiling water when required, and turn the brawn out on a dish. Decorate with green parsley, and serve cold. Sheeps' Tongues, Stewed. 149. Put the tongues into cold water, bring to a boil till tender enough to remove the skins. Then split them, and lay them in a stewpan with enough good gravy to cover them. Chop some parsley, some mushrooms and onion, fin-ely ; work a lump of butter with it, and season with pepper and salt to taste. Add it to the gravy, and stew till tender ; then lay them in a dish, strain the gravy, pour it very hot over the tongues, and serve. 58 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [150. Fish Rissoles. 150. Take the remains of cold salmon, or any white fish, free it from bones and skin, pound in a mortar with pepper, salt, cayenne, and a little butter, until it is a smooth paste, but not too dry ; make it up into small round balls ; wash these over with beaten egg, roll in very fine breadcrumbs, fry a pale gold colour. Serve piled high on cut paper. Baked Whitings. 151. Clean four or six whitings well, cut off the heads, season well with pepper and salt ; butter a pudding-dish at the bottom, lay in the fish, sprinkle them over with more butter and two tablespoonfuls of any light wine, cover with thick buttered-paper, put them in a moderate oven for half an hour ; mix together three tablespoonfuls of chablis, two tea- spoonfuls of finely-chopped herbs, one dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, two tablespoonfuls of gravy, a little cayenne ; boil these together for a few minutes, pour over the fish, return them to the oven, and let them do slowly for half an hour more. Kidney Balls. 152. Chop a veal kidney and some of the fat, some leek or onion, black pepper, and salt to taste ; roll it up with an egg into balls, and fry them. Deviled Pheasants' or Chickens' Legs. 153. Cut off legs from cold pheasants, score them with a sharp knife, put pepper and mustard and a little salt into the cuts ; broil them with a piece of cold butter on each. Serve very hot. Sweetbreads, Browned. 154. Soak, blanch, and stew the sweetbreads in as much good and nicely flavoured stock as will barely cover them. 157.] BREAKFAST DISHES, 59 When they have simmered about half an hour take them up, and put them into a round saucepan just large enough to hold them, with a good slice of fresh butter, which has been melted and is just beginning to brown. Turn the sweetbreads over and over till they are equally and brightly browned in every part. Keep them hot by the side of the stove. Thicken the stock in which they are boiled with brown thickening. Flavour with mushroom ketchup and lemon-juice, and add a table- spoonful of light wine. Place the sweetbreads on a dish, and pour the sauce over them. ' ' Trout, Fried. 155. Empty, clean, and dry the fish thoroughly ; cut off the fins and gills, but leave the heads on. Rub them over with flour, and fry them in plenty of hot fat. When they are brown on one side turn them carefully upon the other. Lift them out and drain them on blotting-paper before the fire. Serve on a hot napkin and garnish with parsley. Eed Mullet, Baked. 156. Wash the mullet and rub it well with lemon-juice ; put it in a tin dish, with a large mushroom finely chopped, two shallots chopped, three thin slices of carrot, and four sprigs of parsley chopped, a saltspoonful of salt, the same of white pepper, a quarter of a pint of chablis ; bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Baste constantly with dissolved butter ; serve with the sauce poured over the mullet. This recipe is written for a large mullet. Baked Herrings. 157. Take off the heads of six herrings, put them into a deep dish, and season with a saltspoonful of pepper, a tea- spoonful of salt, a quarter of a grain of cayenne, two cloves, four allspice, six peppercorns, a blade of mace, half an inch of bruised ginger, and a teaspoonful of grated horseradish ; add a gill of cold water and a gill of good vinegar. Bake in a 6o FOODS FOR THE FAT. [158- slow oven for half an hour. Serve cold, with the sauce strained and a Leaspoonful of finely chopped chives added. Ling, Fresh. 158. Take one pound of ling, cut it into pieces three- quarters of an inch thick, rub it with pepper and salt, and put it on the gridiron over a clear fire ; in about ten minutes it will be done. Serve it plain, or with lemon or vinegar. Bloaters. 159. Open the bloaters down the back and bone them. Lay the fish one on the other (insides together), and broil over a clear fire. When sent to table they are separated, laid on a hot dish, and rubbed over with a little butter ; or, split up, take out the bakebone, trim off the head, tail, and fins, double the fish over, and broil from five to six minutes over a clear fire. Eggs and Garlic. 160. Pound ten cloves of garlic that have been boiled for twenty minutes — the water having been changed during the boiling — v/ith a couple of anchovies ; put them, when well- pounded, into a stewpan, and add two tablespoonfuls of oil, the beaten yolks of two eggs, a tablespoonful of vinegar, some pepper and salt, and mix all together while being treated. Put the mixture on a dish, and serve with sliced hard-boiled eggs. Four eggs will cut slices enough for this dish. Time, ten minutes to dress eggs ; two or three minutes to warm the mixture. Eggs and Mushrooms. 161. Cut off the ends and stalks from half a pint of mush- room buttons ; put them into a basin of water with a little lemon-juice as they are done. Drain and slice them with some large onions, which fry in butter. If liked, the onions can be omitted and the mushrooms can be stewed whole. 164.] BREAKFAST DISHES. 61 Put the mushrooms when tender on a dish, break some eggs upon them to cover the surface, and in doing this be careful not to break the yolks of the eggs. Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle browned crumbs on the top, and put the dish in a hot oven till the eggs are set. Serve immediately. Time to stew mushrooms, from ten to fifteen minutes. Dried Haddock. 162. Boil it in a frying-pan, with just enough water to cover it ; put it on a drainer to drain, then put it before the fire with a large piece of butter on it. Herrings, Pickled. 163. Take half a pound of salt, half a pound of bay-salt, one grain of saccharin, and an ounce of saltpetre. Pound all well together until reduced to a fine powder. Procure the herrings as fresh as possible, cut off the heads and tails, open them, and lay them for one hour in brine strong enough to float an egg. Drain, dry the fish with a soft cloth, and put them in layers into a deep jar, with a little of the powder between each layer, and a little both at the top and bottom of the jar. When the jar is full press it down and cover it closely. The fish will be ready in three months. Kidney Omelette. 164. Take two sheep's kidneys and cut into slices; fry them over a clear fire for three or four minutes in a little butter ; mince them finely, season with pepper and salt, beat up the yolks of three eggs and the white of one, add the minced kidney to them. Put an ounce of butter in an omelette-pan, let it remain on a slow fire until it bubbles, then pour in the mixture, and stir briskly for a minute or two until the eggs are set. Pold the edges of the omelette over neatly, and turn it carefully upon a hot dish. Serve immediately. If too much cooled it will be tough. 62 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [165- KiDNEYs, Minced. 165. Chop some ox kidney into pieces the size of a pea, season them rather highly with salt and cayenne, and fry them in one ounce of hot butter for a quarter of an hour, moving them about frequently in the pan that they may be equally cooked. Moisten the mince with two or three table- spoonfuls of good brown gravy. Broiled Mutton Kidneys. 166. Split them open lengthwise without dividing them, strip off the skin and fat, run a fine skewer through the points and across the back of the kidneys to keep them flat while broiling, season them with pepper or cayenne, lay them over a clear, brisk fire with the cut sides towards it ; turn them in from four to five minutes, and in as many more dish and serve them quickly, with or without a cold maitre d'hotel sauce under them. Season them with pepper and fine salt, and brush a very small quantity of oil or clarified butter over them before they are broiled. Duck Olives. 167. Cut into two joints the legs of a cold duck or chicken, take off the drum-sticks, mix half a teaspoonful of pfpjier with five or six teaspoonfuls of breadcrumbs, some mixed herbs, a very finely chopped onion, and two teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley. Cut four thin slices of bacon, sprinkle with the crumbs, roll up each joint of fowl in the bacon, tie securely ; make hot in a frying-pan or before the fire. Serve on a piece of dry toast thinly buttered. Potted Pheasant. 168. Roast the birds as for the table, but let them be thoroughly done, for if lie gravy be left in the meat will not keep lialf so well. Raiise the flesh of the breast, Mings, ami merrythought quite clear from the bones ; take off the skin, 1 71.1 BREAKFAST DISHES. 63 mince, and then pound it very smoothly with about one-third of its weight of fresh butter, or something less if the meat should appear of a proper consistence without the full quantity ; season it with salt, mace, and cayenne only, and add these in small portions until the meat is rather highly flavoured with both the last. Put in pots, and pour oiled butter over them. Veal Cake. 169. Cut all the brown off some slices of cold veal, and cut two hard-boiled eggs into slices. Get a pretty mould, lay ham, veal, and eggs in layers, and some chopped parsley and a little pepper between each, and when the mould is full get some strong stock, and fill up the shape. Bake half an hour, and when cold turn out. Broiled Trout. 170. When the fish is thoroughly cleaned, wipe it dry in a cloth, and tie it round with thread (to preserve its shape). Melt a quarter of a pound of butter with a tablespoonful of salt, and pour it over the trout till quite covered; let it re- main in it for five minutes, then take it out and place on a grid- iron over a clear fire, and let it cook gradually for fifteen minutea SOUPS. Julienne Soup. 171. Take three carrots, three turnips, the white part of a heart of celery, three onions, and three leeks. Wash and dry the vegetables, and cut them into thin shreds, which should be not more than one inch in length. Place the shreds in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, and stir thera over a slow fire until slightly browned. Pour over them three quarts of clear stock, and simmer gently for an hour, or until the veget- ables are tender. Carefully remove the scum and grease, and half an hour before the soup is done enough add two pinches 64 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [172- of salt and two pinches of pepper. Julienne is seasonable for nine months of the year only. Mulligatawny Soup, Eabbit. 172. Cut up two young rabbits into small pieces, and fry them in butter until they are nearly dressed enough, with four onions sliced finely. Place these in a stewpan, pour in a quart of stock, and simmer for an hour. Then take out the rabbit and strain ofT the onions, replace the rabbit in the stew- pan with two more quarts of stock as good as you wish to make it, and when it boils stir in two tablespoonfals of curry- powder flavoured as you may prefer. Hunter's Soup. 173. Partially roast a brace of well-kept partridges, or a partridge and a grouse. Put them rather close to a clear fire, and baste them plentifully. As soon as the outside is well browned, take them up, and when nearly cold cut the meat from the bones into nice fillets, and bruise the bones thoroughly. Cut half a pound of lean ham into dice, and fry these in one ounce of butter, with a sliced carrot, an onion, and a little parsley. Add two quarts of strong beef gravy, the bruised Ixmes, and a little salt and cayenne. Simmer gently for two hours, and then strain the soup. Add the slices of meat and a glass of claret, and let it heat once more without boiling. Mulligatawny Soup. 174. This is a soup of any kind flavoured with curry- powder. Jt is highly stimulating, gives tone and vigour to the digestive organs, and is frtquently acceptable in very hot or cold climates. Nevertheless we do not recom.mend its frequent use, though it may occasionally be resorted to on festive occasions. 176.] SOUPS, 65 Ox-Tail Soup, Clear. 175. Cut a fine, fresh ox-tail into pieces about an inch long, and divide the thick part into four. Wash these pieces, and throw them into boiling water for a quarter of an hour, then drain and wipe them with a soft cloth. Put them into a stewpan with two carrots, an onion stuck with three cloves, a sprig of parsley, a small piece of thyme, two or three sticks of celery, ha'f a blade of mace, a teaspoonfal of salt, six or eight peppercorns, and a quart of water or clear stock. Boil, re- move the scum carefully as it rises, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and simmer very gently until the meat is tender. Lift out the pieces of ox-tail, and strain the soup. Pheasant Soup. 176. FJour a well-hung pheasant rather thickly, put it down to a brisk fii-e, and roast it for a quarter of an hour, basting it plentifully all the time. Take it from the fire and let it get nearly cold, then take off the flesh from the breast and the upper part of the wings, skin it and put it aside. Cut up the rest of the bird, and bruise the bones. Scrape a small carrot finely, put it into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, an ounce of the lean of an unboiled ham finely minced, a small sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a handful of parsley, half a blade of mace, three or four cloves, half a dozen peppercorns, a shallot, and three or four of the outer sticks of a head of celery. Stir these ingredients over a gentle fire until they are brightly browned, put in the flesh and the bruised body of the bird, pour over them a quart of veal or beef stock, and after boiling stew gently for half an hour, and be careful to remove the scum as it rises. Strain the soup, and rub the meat through a sieve. Mix the puree with the soup, add to it a small pinch of cayenne, a little salt, a glassful of chablis, and the fillets of the pheasant cut i]ito thick slices. Stir over the Hre until it is quite hot, and serve. Time, an hour and a half or more. 5 66 foods for the fat. [177. Pheasant Soup — Another Way. 177. Roast a well-hung pheasant according to the directions given in the last recipe. Take off the flesh from the breast and wings ; skin it and lay it aside. Divide the rest of the bird into joints, put it into a stewpan, pour over it a quart of unseasoned beef stock, let it boil and simmer gently for three hours. Strain the soup and carefully rub the meat through a sieve. Pound the flesh of the breast in a mortar until it is reduced to a smooth paste; mix with it an ounce of fresh butter, a large teaspoonful of salt, a blade of mace powdered, and a pinch of cayenne. Mix this paste with the sonp, stir it over the fire until it is quite hot, skim carefully, and serve. Time, nearly five hours. Hare Soup. 178. Take the remains of a hare which has been roasted the day before, add to it a few bits of parsley, a stick of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, also about a quart of water or weak stock. Simmer gently until the meat is nearly off the bones ; strain it, pick the meat off the bones ; rub this well through a hair or fine wire sieve; add it to the soup with pepper, salt, and half a glass of port wine. Fowl or Chicken Soup. 179. Have ready about two quarts of stock from veal bones, put to it some vegetables — cairot, onion, celery, parsley and sweet herbs. Take a fowl or chicken, cut it into four pieces, put it into the stock, boil or simmer gently till tender. Strain the soup ; add to it the beaten yolks of two eggs, pepper and salt to taste. Cut some of the best meat off the fowl in neat pieces or joints, and add them also. Warm well and serve. A chicken if young will not require to stew so long as the vegetables. tC2.] SOUPS. 67 Game Soup. 180. Take any game too old for roasting — a couple of parti idges or three moor-fowl; stew them well and slowly in about three pints of stock. When tender, take them out, cut off some of the best pieces, return the rest to the soup ; add pepper, salt, and a little ketchup. Let this simmer gently while you prepare the pieces you have cut off. Take these pieces, trim them neatly, season well, shake a little flour over and fry a nice brown, but don't let them be greasy. Strain the soup through a sieve, rubbing as much of the meat through from the game as you can ; return the soup to the pan, put in the fried pieces of game ; make it very hot, and serve. , Green Pea Soup. 181. Take a quart of green peas, a stick of celery, an onion and turnip, all cut, some mint, and about a quart of stock. Stew till tender, then pass through a fine sieve. If too thick, add some more stock ; add salt, pepper, and a little saccharin ; have ready about a pint of young green peas, parboiled in water with a little mint, add them to the soup, and let the whole simmer until tender, then serve. Oyster Soup. 182. Allow about three dozen to a quart of soup. Open them carefully, keep and strain the liquor from them, beard the oysters, and put the strained liquor over them. Take a quart of the palest veal stock and simmer the beards in it for twenty minutes ; strain, adding a little more stock if required. Put the oysters over the fire in their own liquor to plump them, but do not let them boil. Put the soup over the fire, add mace and cayenne, pour the liquor from the oysters to it, put the oysters into the tureen, and pour the soup over tliera and serve. 5—2 CS FOODS FOR THE FAT. [183- FisH Soup. 133. Take any white or fresh-water fish, cut off some of tlie best pieces, boil the bones and the other parts of the fish in a quart of water for an hour ; let it get cold, or nearly so ; slice a small onion, then put one ounce of butter into a saucepan, put in the onion, let it brown ; then lay in the pieces of fish which were kept, add pepper, salt, a glass of chablis, a tomato sliced and cored ; pour on to it the liquid from the fish bones, straining it to prevent the bits going in ; add a little chopped parsley ; simmer a quarter of an hour. Serve with fried toast. Tomato Soup. * 184. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, slice six tomatoes, two carrots, one onion, four ounces of veal, and one of ham, add to the butter, let it steam a quarter of an h.ants ; let the sauce boil up, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it keep simmering for an hour and a half. Strain the gravy and skim carefully, put it back into the saucepan with the joints of meat, a little saccharin, and a little lemon-juice. Heat slowly and serve as above. Time, twentj'' to thirty minutes to roast the pheasant ; a quarter of an hour in the first instance, or an hour and a half in the second, to simmer the sauce. 251.] dinner dishes. 89 Pheasant, Roast. 248. Pluck, draw and singe a brace of pheasants. Wipe them with a dry cloth, truss them firmly, and either lard or tie round the fereasts a piece of fat bacon. Flour them well, put them before a clear fire, and baste liberally. When they are done enough remove the bacon, serve the birds on a hot dish, and garnish with watercress. Send good brown gravy to table with them. If the fashion is liked, half a dozen of the best of the tail feathers may be stuck into the bird when it is dished. Time, three-quarters of an hour to roast a good-sized pheasant. The drumsticks are generally excellent when devilled. Peafowl, Larded and Roasted. 249. Choose a young bird, lard it closely over the breast and legs, fill it with a good veal forcemeat — but the forcemeat may be oraijbted — truss it firmly, and roast before a clear fire for an hour or an hour and a half, according to the size of the bird. When done enough, take off the buttered paper which was round the head, trim the feathers, glaze the larding, and serve the bird on a hot dish with a clear brown gravy under it. Garnish the dish with watercress. Partridges, Broiled. 250. Prepare the partridges as if for roasting, cut off their heads, split them entirely up the back, and flatten the breast- bones a little. Wipe them thoroughly inside and out with a damp cloth, season with salt and cayenne, and broil over a gentle lire. As soon as they are done enough rub them quickly over with butter, and send them to table on a hot dish, with brown gravy or mushroom sauce in a tureen. Time, fifteen minutes to broil the partridges. Partridges, Salmi of. 251. Prepare three partridges, lard the breasts well, and roast them, but leave them rather underdone. Leave till 90 FOODS FOF THE FAT. [252- cold ; take off the skin and cut in joints ; put them into a stew- pan with over half a pint of good broth, add two or three shallots and a bit of thin lemon-peel, pepper and salt to taste, and four teaspoonfuls of Worcester or any other good sauce. Pat it on the fire, and let it stew down to half the quantity. Strain the sauce through a fine sieve, dish the partridges with a thin slice of fried bread between the pieces ; pour the sauce over, and add a squeeze of lemon-juice. Salmi of Partridges, Cold. 252. Prepare as above. When done, strain the sauce and leave all to become cold. The sauce can have a little Nelson's gelatine put to it, and be left to set. .After it is all nearly cold, arrange the pieces of partridge in a mould, first putting a little of the sauce at the bottom, fill up with the sauce, and ice the whole together. Turn out ; serve with savoury or aspic jelly round. Pigeons, Compote of. 253. Truss a dozen plump young pigeons as if for boiling. Lard them down the breasts, or, if preferred, cover their breasts with thin slices of fat bacon. Fry them in hot butter till they are equally and lightly browned all over, then divide them and put them in side by side in a saucepan large enough to contain them. Barely cover them with good gravy, and add half a dozen small onions, a dozen button mushrooms, a glassful of claret, a little salt and cayenne. Let the birds stew gently for half an hour, then add a large tahlespoonfui of tomato sauce, and stew a few minutes longer. Place the birds on a hot dish, with the sauce around them. Pigeons served with Watercress. 254. Roast a couple of young pigeons in the usual way. Wash and pick two or three bunches of young watercress, and dry them well ; to do this put them into a dry cloth, take 256.] DINNER DISHES, 91 hold of this by the four corners and shake the leaves until they are dry ; put them on a dish, sprinkle a little salt over them, lay the pigeons upon them, and pour brown gravy over. The cresses are sometimes arranged round the dish instead of being placed under the birds. Time, about twenty minutes to roast the pij^eons. Mutton, Neck of, Boiled. 255. Shorten the ribs and saw off the chine-bone of a neck of mutton, or from three or four jDOunds of the best end ; to look well it should not exceed five inches in length. Pare off the fat that is in excess of what may be eaten, and boil slowly in plenty of water, slightly salted ; skim carefully and remove the fat from the surface. The meat may be served plainly with caper or parsley sauce, and a garnish of boiled turnips and carrots cut into thin strips placed alternately round the dish. Four middle-sized turnips or three carrots may be boiled with the mutton. Time, a full (quarter of an hour to the pound. Mutton, Kebobbed. 256. This favourite Oriental dish can be prepared with our English mutton in a manner far superior to any kebob at Turkish or Egyptian tables. Take a loin of mutton, joint it well at every bone, cut off all superfluous fat, particularly of the kidney, and remove the skin. Prepare a well-proportioned and large seasoning of the following ingredients : Some breadcrumbs, sweet herbs, nutmegs, pepper and salt. Brush the mutton chops over with yolk of egg, and sprinkle the above mixture thickly over them ; then tie the chops together in their original order, run a slender spit through them, and roast before a quick fire, basting them well with butter and the drippings from the meat, and throwing more of the season- ing on them from time to time. Serve with the gravy from the meat. 92 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [257- MUTTON, EOEBUCK FASHION. 257. Take a loin of mutton that has been well hung. Remove the fillet, skin, and cut away the fat and bones. Lay the loin in a marinade composed of equal parts of vinegar and water, to a pint of which add a glass of port or claret, a couple of carrots, and two large onions cut into quarters with a clove in each, a dozen peppercorns, two blades of mace, a bunch of herbs and parsley, some bay-leaves, and two tea- spoonfuls of salt. When the mutton has lain in the marinade twenty-four hours turn it, and let it lie until next day ; then drain, and put it into a braising-pan with a little of the pickle, the pan being well lined with bacon. Stew it three hours. Glaze the meat and serve with gravy, adding walnut ketchup and a glass of claret. Indian Fagadu. 258. Pick the meat from a lobster and a pint of shrimps, cut it into small bits, and season it with an onion and a clove of garlic shred finely, and some cayenne and salt. Prepare some spinach as for boiling, put it into a stewpan in the usual way without water, add the lobster, and stew gently with an onion or two sliced and previously fried in butter, keeping the lid closed for some time. When nearly done, stir the contents over the fire to absorb the moisture, and when quite dry queeze in some lemon-juice. Curried Sweetbreads. 259. Wash and soak one or two sweetbreads, put them into some boiling water with a little salt, an onion, and a bit of parsley ; let them simmer for ten minutes (any pale broth is better than water) ; take tliem out, leave them to drain and get quite cold, then cut tliem into slices, about half an inch thick, and fry lightly. Have some good curry, put the slices into this, and stew gently for twenty minutes; cocoanut-milk 262.] DINNER DISHES. 9c must be added with the sweetbread, or about ten minutes before serving. Leveret, Eoasted. 260. Leverets may be used when hares are out of season. They should be trussed in the same way, and may be stuffed or not (with hare stuffing), according to preference. A leveret is best when larded, but if this cannot be done, cover it either with thin slices of fat bacon or with a thickly buttered piece of white paper. Eoast it before a brisk fire, and baste it con- stantly, and a few minutes before it is taken down remove the bacon or paper. Serve it very hot, and send red-currant jelly to table with it as well as the following gravy, a little of which may be put in the dish and the rest in a tureen : Thicken half a pint of stock with a small piece of butter rolled in flour, let it boil for ten minutes, then stir a wineglassful of port into it, boil up once more, and serve. Time, an hour to roast the leveret. Meat Pie a la Don Pedro. 261. This is a kind of ragout put into a tin made expressly for the dish. Take some mutton chops, either from the loin or neck, trim them neatly, and toss them with some chopped parsley, butter, pepper, and salt, etc., in a stewpan over a slow fire. Place the chops with some good brown stock into the tin baking-dish, and add slices of lean ham, and cover with the lid. Omelette with Gravy. 262. Whisk half a dozen fresh eggs thoroughly, and mix with them a small pinch of salt, two pinches of pepper, a tablespoonful of finely minced parsley, half a teaspoonful of chopped onions, and two tablespoonfuls of nicely seasoned gravy. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a hot frying- pan, over a gentle fire, and fry the omelette in the usual wa}^ Serve it on a hot dish with half a pint of good gravy poured round it. Time to fry, six or seven minutes. 94 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [263. Onions with Beefsteak, etc. 263. Take two large Spanish onions, remove a thin piece off each end, peel off the outer skins, and cut them into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Place an ounce of butter or good dripping in a saucepan, let it melt, then put with it a pound of steak, dividing it into pieces a little thinner than for boiling. Brown these in the butter, add a little pepper and salt, the sliced onions, three ounces more of butter, but no liquid ; cover the saucepan closely, and simmer a? gently as possible till done. Arrange the steak neatly in the centre of a hot dish, boil up the onion gravy sauce with a tablespoonful of walnut ketchup, pour it over the meat, and serve immediately. Chickens or rabbits are sometimes cooked in the same way. Time, about an hour and a half. Filets de Bceuf aux Truffes. 264. Cut out the inside of a sirloin of beef, beat it well to make it tender, cut it in slices, trimming them neatly; lay them in oil, and let them soak for ten minutes, then fry in butter. Chop up some parsley, lemon thyme, half a shallot, and slice some truffles (that have been previously cleaned and brushed, boiled for twenty minutes in some good stock, quarter of a pint, and half a pint of white wine, pepper and salt), add fifteen drops of vinegar. Lay the herbs in the middle of the dish and the fillets round, and the trufiles round the fillets. Boiled Eabbits. 265. Select very young ones for boiling; wash and clean well. Fasten the head to the side. Have water boiling and skimmed ready, put in the rabbits, and simmer gently for half to three-quarters of an hour. EoAST Eabbit. 266. Rabbits can be cooked much the same as hares, but they will take hardly an hour to roast. If liked, the 270.] DINNER DISHES. 95 backbone can be taken out ; it must be carefully done, so as not to break the skin. A rabbit done this way will require much more stuffing put into it ; a little thin bacon or slices of ham may be put in before the stuffing. Baste well. Red- currant jelly is also sent in with roast rabbit. (See Gravy.) Rabbit 1 la Tartars. 267. Take a rabbit and bone it. Then cut' it into pieces, which marinade some hours in parsley, mushrooms, chives and a clove of garlic, all chopped fine, together with pepper, salt and oil ; dip each piece of rabbit in breadcrumbs, broil, sprinkling the pieces with the marinade. Serve in a sauce k la Tartare. (See Tartar Sauce.) Rabbit with Tomato Sauce. 268. Cut a rabbit in pieces, fry a light brown slowly (it is best done in a stewpan) in a little butter or lard, add pepper, salt and a small sliced onion. Pour on to it some tomato sauce, a few spoonfuls of gravy, and stew for half to three- quarters of an hour. Rabbits that have been roasted and are rather underdone can be cooked this way after. Stewed Rabbit. 269. Cut up into neat joints. Take a large flat stewpan, make it hot, put into it a lump of lard about the size of a large walnut, put in the joints of rabbit so that each piece touches the bottom of the pan, add a little sliced onion, and sprinkle over them a little flour ; brown both sides. Then pour over it a pint of boiling water or weak stock, season with salt, pepper, and two or three cloves, a bit of allspice, a bunch of parsley, and two bay-leaves. Simmer slowly for one hour and a half, then add a tumbler of claret, and simmer again for one hour. It must not be allowed to do fast, or it will dry up too much. Rabbit, Fricasseed. 270. Cut a young rabbit into neat joints, lay it in a stew- pan, and cover with goud stock. Let the liquid boil, then put 96 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [271- with it three onions, three carrots, three turnips, and three sticks of celery, all sliced ; add a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyiiie, a blade of mace, a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, and a small quantity of saccharin, and stew all gently together until the vegetables are quite soft. Lift the vegetables out, rub them through a sieve with the back of a wooden spoon. Stir the pur^e over the fire with a tablespoonful of the gravy for two or three minutes to make it quite hot. Put the pieces of rabbit on a dish, cover with the pur6e, and pour the sauce over all. Serve very hot. Time, one hour. Kabbit, Ragoitt of. 271. Skin, empt}^ and wash a plump young rabbit, cut it up into ten or twelve pieces, and lay it in a saucepan with a dozen button mushrooms, half a dozen small onions, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Pour over these ingredients as much boiling stock or water as will cover them, and let them simmer very gently until the rabbit is tender. Lift out the rabbit, skim and strain the sauce, and thicken with a tablespoonful of brown thickening. Season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, and let it boil till smooth. Add a wine-glassful of chablis, if liked. Put in the pieces of meat. Let them get thoroughly hot without allowing the gravy to boil, arrange them neatly in a dish, pour the gravy over them, and serve very hot. Time to simmer the rabbit, from an hour and a half to two hours. Chicken 1 la Marengo. 272. Cut a fine chicken into neat joints, season it with salt and cayenne, and fry it till done in about half a tumblerful of oil or clarified butter. When half cooked, add a clove of garlic, two shallots, and a faggot of sweet herbs. Drain the meat from the fat, and mix with the latter a teaspoonful of flour, and very gradually sufficient good stock to make the sauce of the consistence of thick cream. Stir it till it is thick and smooth. Put the chicken on a hot dish, strain the 275.] DINNER DISHES. 97 sauce over it, and serve. If liked, mushrooms or fried eggs may be taken to garnish the dish. Time, about twenty-five minutes to fry the cliicken. Chicken, Devilled. 273. The best parts of chicken for a devil are the wings and legs. Remove the skin, score the flesh deeply in several places, and rub in a mixture made of salt, pej^per, cayenne, mustard, anchovy and butter. Broil over a clear fire, and serve the fowl hot on a napkin. Chicken, Fried. 274. Take the remains of a cold chicken, cut it into neat pieces, brush a little oil over each piece, and strew over it lather thickly salt and curry powder. Melt a little butter in a frying-pan, and fry some onions, cut into thin strips about half an inch long and the eighth of an inch wide ; fry them slowly, and keep them in the pan until they are a dark brown colour and quite dry. They will require a little care, as they must on no account be burnt. Fry the chicken, strew the onions over it, and serve with slices of lemon. Time to fry the chicken, ten minutes. Calf's Liver X la mode. 275. After well washing the calf's liver, soak it for a short time in cold water, then wipe it dry, and insert lardoons of bacon at equal distances in the interior part of the liver ; put it into a stewpan with about two ounces and a half of butter, a small bunch of sweet herbs tied together, half a blade of mace, and a small onion stuck with six cloves, and fry it a nice brown ; then add three carrots, two turnips^ an onion cut into vi^heels, and a wineglassful of brandy with sufficient water to just cover the whole. Baste it frequently with its own gravy, and let it simmer slowly for two hours. When done, take out the liver aad put it on a dish garnished with the cut vegetables ; strain and skim the gravy ; add one tablespoonful of Harvey- 7 gS FOODS FOR THE FAT. [276- sauce and a glass of wine ; boil it to the quantity required Pour it over the liver and serve it up hot. Braised Loin of Lamb. 276. Bone a loin of lamb and line the bottom of a stewpan, just capable of holding it, with a few thin slices of fat bacon ; add to it one bunch of green onions, five or six young carrots, a bunch of savoury herbs, two blades of pounded mace ; cover the meat with a few more slices of bacon, pour in a pint of stock, and sim-mer very gently for two hours. Take it up, dry it, strain, and reduce the gravy to a glaze, with which glaze the meat, and serve it either on stewed spinach or stewed cucumbers. Curried Beef. 277. Cut up some beef into pieces about one inch square, put a little butter into a stewpan with a little onion sliced, and fry them of a light brown colour ; add one dessertspoonful of curry-powder, quarter of a pint of stock or gravy, and stir gently over a brisk fire for about ten minutes. Should this be thought too dry, a spoonful or two more of gravy may be added ; but a good curry should not be very thin. Serve with sippets of well-toasted bread. A nice way of doing up cold beef. To Dress Beef kidneys. 278. Cut a beef-kidney into neat slices, put them into warm water to soak for two hours, and change the water two or three times ; then put them on a clean cloth to dry the -water from them, and lay them in a frying-pan with some clarified butter, and fry them of a nice brown ; season each side with pepper and salt, put them into a stew-pan, and then gently stew for an hour. Put them round the dish, and the gravy in the middle. Before pouring the gravy in the dish add one tablespoonful of lemon-juice and a very small quantity oi" saccharin. 282] dinner dishes. 99 Minced Beef. 279. Put into a stew-pan a little butter with an onion chopped fine; add a little gravy and one tablespoonfnl of strong ale ; season with pepper and salt, and stir these in- gredients over the fire until the onion is a rich brown. Cut, but do not chop, some cold beef very fine, add it to the gravy, stir till quite hot and serve ; garnish with sippets of well- toarted bread. Be careful in not allowing the gravy to boil after the meat is added, as it would render it hard and tough. To EoAST Venison. 280. Take great care the meat is well-hung. Take the skin from the top part, put butter and salt over the fat, then make a paste of flour and water, lay it on, and fasten it by four or five sheets of paper, sewn together and skewered on firmly. Roast it gently and baste it. About half an hour before it is done take off" the paper and paste, and let it colour gradually to a pale brown, but be most careful it does not burn. Serve with a good gravy round, and with warmed red currant jelly. A little wine can be added to the gravy. Hashed Venison. 281. Take a pint of very good brown gravy, mix with it some of the sauce Tartare. Cut the venison in small, thin slices of equal size, put them into a saucepan, cover with the sauce, and let it stand from fifteen to twenty minutes ; put the pan on the fire, let it get gradually warm till it gets hot quite through. It must on no account boil, but it must be very hot when sent to table. Norman Hash. 282. Take two ounces of butter, warm it, add half an onion, a sprig of herbs, and a good pint of stock ; boil well and strain; slice mutton very thin and free from skin ; put the meat into the sauce, stew very gently for three-quarters of an hour, take out the herbs. Add half a glass of sherry before serving. 7—2 loo FOODS FOR THE FAT. [283. Beef can also be used for this hash, but will require rather longer to stew. Cooked meat is best for this. To Stew Mutton Cutlets (Plain). 283. These can be taken from either a loin or neck of mutton ; free them from skin and fat. Fry slightly, either plain or cover with egg and breadcrumbs. Have a good cold gravy ready ; put in your cutlets, cover your pan, and let them stew gently for an hour. Add a few button mushrooms to the gravy before serving. Calf's Head Stewed with Oysters. 284. Soak half a small calf's head (without the skin) for one hour in. cold water with a teacupful of vinegar in it. Well wash it in two or three waters, put it into a stewpan with two onions, a bay-leaf, a laurel-leaf, a sprig of thyme, a sprig of marjoram, two sage leaves, four sprigs of parsley, two cloves, four allspice, six black peppercorns, half a carrot, and a pint and a half of cold water. Boil up quickly, skim, then simmer gently for an hour and a half, skimming constantly. Take out the head, strain the liquor, add to it one tablespoonful of baked flour and the strained liquor of three dozen oysters ; boil up, put the head in again and continue to simmer for three quarters of an hour longer ; add three dozen oysters; let it just simmer again and serve. It must not boil after the oysters are added. Calf's Head EagoOt. 285. Wash half a calf's head thoroughly, and boil it for about three hours ; take it up, drain it, and score the outside skin in diamonds. Brush it over with well-beaten egg, and strew over that a few finely-grated breadcrumbs, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of chopped thyme, a teaspoon- ful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of cayenne. Put it in a hot oven, or place it before the fire to brown, and before sending 286.] VEGETABLES. roi it to table squeeze over it the juice of a large lemon, and a little oiled butter poured over it. Lasib Chops with Cucumber Sauce. 286. Dip the chops in beaten egg and brown breadcrumbs, and fry them. When nicely browned, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish and put in the centre a sauce prepared as follows : Peel a young fresh cucumber, and cut it into dice ; strew a little pepper and salt over these. Melt three or four ounces of butter in a saucepan, put in the cucumber, cover it closely and place it on a moderate fire, shaking the pan frequently to prevent sticking. When it is steamed until the pieces of cucumber are quite tender but unbroken, serve tliem in the centre of the dish. It will take about ten minutes to fry the chops, and about twenty minutes to stew the cucumber. VEGETABLES. The following vegetables are suitable- for corpulent people during the respective months given. January. Asparagus (forced), Jerusalem artichokes, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, cardoons, celery, chervil, cresses, endive, lettuces, savoys, Scotch kale, spitjach, turnips, herbs. February. Jerusalem artichokes, asparagus (forced), broccoli, brussels sprouts, beans (French or kidney), cabbages, celery, cardoons, cliervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, lettuces, savoys, spinach, seakale, turnips, various herbs. March. Artichokes (French), asparagus (forced), broccoli, Brussels sprouts, beans (forced), cabbages, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumber (forced), endive, kidney beans, lettuces, radishes I02 FOODS FOR THE FAT. (early), savo,ys, seakale, spinach, turnips, turnip-tops, various herbs. April. Artichokes (French), asparagus, beetroot, beans (French and kidney, forced), broccoH, celery, chervil, cucumbers (forced), lettuce, cabbages, radishes, young onions, small salad, seakale, spinach, sprouts, turnip-toj^s, various herbs. May. Artichokes (French), asparagus, beans, cabbages, chervil, cucumbers, cauliflower, cresses, lettuces, peas, radishes, salad, seakale, spinach, turnip-tops, and various herbs. June. Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, chervil, cucumbers, cauliflower, endive, lettuces, onions, peas, radishes, small salad, seakale, sorrel, spinach, turnips, various herbs. July. Artichokes, beans, cabbages, cauliflowers, cucumbers, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, peas, radishes, red cabbages, small salads, salsify, seakale, sorrel, spinach, sprouts, turnips, vegetable marrows, various herbs. August. Artichokes, beans, cabbages, cauliflowers, cucumbers, cresses, shallots, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, peas, radishes, red cabbages, seakale, small salads, salsify, sprouts, turnij)s, vegetable marrows, and various herbs. September. Artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, beans, cabbage, sprouts, cauliflower, celery, carrots, endive, shallots, lettuces, leeks, mush- rooms, onions, peas, salads, seakale, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows, various herbs. 288.] VEGETABLES. 103 October. Artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, beets, broccoli, cabbages, cauliflower, celery, cucumbers, endive, shallots, lettuces, leeks, mushrooms, onions, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows, various herbs. November. Jerusalem artichokes, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, cardoons, endive, leeks, onions, salad, spinach, sprouts, Scotch kale, various herbs. December. Jerusalem artichokes, beetroot, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, cardoons, celery, leeks^ onions, spinach (winter), Scotch kale, turnips. Cabbage, Boiled. 287. Cut off the stalk, remove the faded and outer leaves, and halve, or, if large, quarter the cabbages. Wash them thoroughly and lay them for a few minutes in water, to which a tablespoonful of vinegar has been added, to draw out any insects that may be lodging under the leaves. Drain them in a colander. Have ready a large pan of boiling water, with a tablespoonful of salt and a small piece of soda in it, and let the cabbages boil quickly till tender, leaving the saucepan un- covered. Take them up as soon as they are done, drain them thoroughly and serve. Time to boil young summer cabbages, from ten to fifteen minutes ; large cabbages, half an hour or more. Savoy Cabbage. 288. The savoy is a large, close-hearted cabbage, seasonable in winter. It may be dressed according to the instructions already given for boiling cabbages. A savoy cabbage will need to boil thirty minutes or more, according to size. I04 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [2S9- Broccoli, Boiled. 289. Trim off all leaves that are not required or liked, and place the broccoli in a pan of salted water to kill any insects, etc., that may have taken shelter under the stalks. Wash them well and put them into an uncovered saucepan of boil- ing water, with a large tablespoonful of salt to every half gallon of water. Keep them boiling till done, which will be in about ten or fifteen minutes, according to size. Drain them directly they are done, or they will lose colour and become sodden. Scotch Kale. 290. Like all other greens, Scotch kale should be procured as fresh as possible. Cut away the outer and decayed leaves and the stalks, wash the kale with scrupulous care, and drain it. Put it into boiling water slightly salted, and let it boil quickly until done enough. Take it up, drain it thoroughly, and serve very hot. Whilst the kale is boiling, the saucepan should be left uncovered. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Seakale, Boiled. 291. When fresh and delicately cooked, seakale resembles, and will serve as a substitute for, asparagus. Carefully wash and brush the seakale to remove the sand and grit, cut out the black part of the roots and tie the shoots up in small bundles, and put it into a stewpan of boiling water with a teaspoonful of salt; let it boil for about twenty minutes, or until tender. Spinach, Boiled. 292. Take two pailfuls of spinach, young and freshly- gathered, pick away the stalks, wash the leaves in several waters, lift them out with the hands that the sand or grit may remain at the bottom, and drain them on a sieve. Put them into a saucepan with a good sprinkling of salt and the water 295] VEGETABLES. 105 which clings to the leaves, and let them boil until tender. , Take the spinach up, drain it, and press it well ; chop it ^mall, and put it into a clean saucepan with a little pepper and salt and a slice of fresh butter ; stir it well for five minutes. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with fried sippets. Time to boil the spinach, ten to fifteen minutes. Lettuce, Stewed. 293. Take four good-sized lettuces, trim away the outer leaves and the bitter stalks, wash the lettuces carefully, and boil them in plenty of salted water until they are tender. Lift them into a colander, and squeeze the water from them ; chop them slightly, and put them into a clean saucepan with a little pepper and salt and a small piece of butter. Dredge a little flour on them, pour over them, three tablespoonfuls of good gravy, and simmer gently for three quarters of an hour, stirring all the time. Squeeze a dessertspoonful of vinegar or lemon-juice upon them, and serve as hot as possible. Mushrooms, Grilled. 294. Cut the stalks, peel, and score lightly the underside of large mushroom flaps, which should be firm and fresh-gathered ; season them with pepper and salt, and steep them in a marinade of oil or melted butter. If quite sound they may be laid on a gridiron over a slow even fire, and grilled on both sides, but they are best done in the oven if at all bruised. Serve on a hot dish, with a piece of butter on each mushroom and a squeeze of lemon-juice. Time, about twelve minutes to grill; five minutes to steep in marinade. Celery, Stewed. 295. Wash four heads of celery very clean, trim them neatly, cutting off" the leaves and tops ; cut them into three-inch lengths and tie them in small bundles, and parboil them in sufficient salt and water to cover them. Drain, and stew them until tender in some stock. Brown two ounces of butter io6 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [296- with a teaspoonful of flour in a saucepan, dilute it with the stock in which the celery was boiled, lay the celery in it, let it boil for ten minutes more, and serve as hot as possible. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Cardoons, Boiled. 296. Choose a few heads of sound white cardoons. Cut them into pieces about six inches long, remove the prickles, and blanch them in boiling water for a quarter of an hour. Scrape off the skin, and tie them in bundles. Cover them with nicely-flavoured stock, and boil till tender. Turnips, Boiled. 297. Turnips should only be served whole when they are very young. When they have reached any size they should be mashed. Pare the turnips and wash them; if very young a little of the green top may be left on ; if very large they should be divided into halves, or even quarters. Throw them into slightly salted water, and let them boil gently till tender. Drain and serve them. Time to boil old turnips, three- quarters of an hour to an hour and a half; young turnips, fifteen to twenty-five minutes. Artichokes, Boiled. 298. Gather the artichokes two or three days before they are required for use. Cut off the stems, pull out the strings, and wash them in two or three waters, that no insects may be in them. Have a large saucepan of boiling water, with two tablespoonfuls of salt and a piece of soda the size of a sixpence to every gallon of water, put the artichokes in with the tops downwards, and let them boil quickly until tender. About half an hour or three - quarters will boil them, but that can be ascertained by pulling out one of the leaves (if it comes out easily they are done), or by trying them with a fork. Take them out and lay them upside down to drain. Serve them on a napkin. 302.] vegetables. 107 Asparagus, Boiled. 299. Scrape very clean all the white part of the stalks from the asparagus, and throw them into cold spring water, tie them up in bundles, cut the root ends even, and put them in a piece of muslin to preserve the tops. Have a wide stewpan of spring water, with one tablespoonful of salt to half a gallon of water, and when it boils lay in the asparagus and boil it quickly for fifteen minutes, or until it is tender. Lay them in the dish with the white ends outwards and the points meeting in the centre. To Boil French Beans. 300. Take as many French beans as you may require, cut off the tops and bottoms, and remove the strings from each side ; then divide each bean into three or four pieces, cutting them lengthways, and as they are cut put them into cold water with a little salt. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, drain the beans from the cold water, and put them in. Boil them quickly with the saucepan uncovered, and as soon as they are done drain them in a colander. Dish, and serve them with a small piece of butter stirred into them. Beans, Stewed, 301. Have ready a good rich brown gravy. Cut up some small onions, chives, and parsley ; throw them into the gravy, and simmer for ten minutes before the beans are put in. Sprinkle a quart of beans with two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, and a small quantity of saccharin ; mix together, and put them into the gravy. Stir the beans gently over a slow fire till the gravy is absorbed by them. In ten minutes serve them up. Cauliflowers, Boiled. 302. Make choice of some caulitlowers that are close and white, pick off all the decayed leaves, and cut the stalk off loS FOODS FOR THE FAT, [303- flat at the bottom ; then put them with the heads downwards in strong salt and water for an hour, to draw out all the insects. Drain them in a colander, and put them into a sauce- pan with plenty of fast boiling water ; keep the pan un- covered, and boil them quickly until tender, which will be from twelve to fifteen minutes, or longer if they are very large. Skim the water clean, and when done take them up with a slice and serve. Squash, or Vegetable Marrow, Boiled. 303. Peel the marrows, and put them into a saucepan of boiling water and salt (one tablespoonful of salt to half a gallon of water). When tender, take them out; cut them into quarters if large ; if not, halve them. Serve them in a vegetable dish. Squash, or Vegetable Marrow, in Gravy. 304. Boil a large marrow in the usual way. When three- parts cooked, take it up, cut it into squares, place these in a saucepan, and pour over them as much thick brown gravy as will cover them. Let them heat gently. Serve in a vegetable dish with the gravy poured round them. Green Peas, Boiled. 305. Shell half a peck of green peas, and put them into a saucepan of boiling water with a teaspoonful of salt and a sprig or two of mint ; let them boil about half an hour with the pan closely covered. When tender, drain them through a colander, and put them in a dish with a bit of butter stirred into them. Serve them up very hot. Leeks, Boiled. 306. Leeks are generally used in soups, etc. If served alone, take them when very young, trim off the root, the outer leaves and the green ends, and cut the stalks into six- inch lengths. Tie them in bundles, put them into boiling 311.] VEGETABLES. 109 water, with a dessertspoonful of salt and a tablespoonfiil of vinegar, and let them boil until quite tender. Drain them and serve. Brussels Sprouts. 307. Pick, trim, and wash a number of sprouts ; put them into plenty of fast boiling water. The sudden immersion of the vegetables will check the boiling for some little time, but they must be brought to a boil as quickly as possible, that they may not lose their green colour ; add a tablespoonful of salt, keep the saucepan uncoveretl, and boil very fast for fifteen minutes. Lose no time in draining them when sufficiently done. Tomatoes. 308. Cut in slices, fry in butter just brown ; add one tablespoonful of white vinegar, chili, a few drops of tarragon, one saltspoon of salt, and a little saccharin. Simmer twenty minutes. Broiled Mushrooms. 309. Skin the mushrooms and cut off the stalks ; put them in a Dutch oven in front of the fire, with a little butter, pepper, and salt. Serve on toast thinly buttered. Mashed Turnips. 310. Take six moderate-sized turnips, pare them neatly, and put them into cold water to blanch for half an hour ; then put them into boiling water, and boil about half an hour ; drain and press out all the water, and rub the turnips through a wire sieve ; put them into a stewpau with half a gill of thick cream and a saltspoonful of salt ; stir till boiling hot, then serve. Boiled Onions. 311. Peel the onions, and boil them in salt and water for ten minutes ; throw them into cold water for half an hour, no FOODS FOR THE FAT. 1312- then put them into a saucepan, and well cover them with cold water, and let them boil gently for an hour. Drain, and serve with or without dissolved butter over thenx Portugal Onions, Stewed. 312. Peel the onions, and place them in a stewpan; for each onion knead together half an ounce of butter and a little saccharin ; put it on the onions, and let them slowly- become slightly browned. Then pour over each a teaspoonful of tomato sauce and a tablespoonful of gravy or stock : simmer gently for three hours, basting the onions frequently with the gravy. Serve very hot. Portugal Onions, Eoasted. 313. Peel the onions and place them in a Dutch oven before a good fire, baste them frequently with dissolved butter (an ounce for each), and roast for an hour and a half. Serve with or without their own sauce. Portugal Onions, Curried. 314. Peel and wash the onions, put them into a saucepan with plenty of water and a little salt. Boil (uncovered) till tender ; then press out the water and chop ; put them into an enamelled saucepan with a little butter and a little curry powder. Simmer for five minutes and serve. Eagout of Celery. 315. Wash well, and boil hali an hour. Take out the celery, put it into cold water for a quarter of an hour, then strain well. Stew in good gravy with a little mushroom ketchup, salt, and pepper. Serve hot. A Mixed Vegetable. 316. Peel an onion, slice and fry in butter, then stew in a little broth till tender ; have some turnips, carrots, and celery boiled, and cut in neat pieces. Put them to the onion, with salt, pepper, and a little mustard (half a teaspoonful of 320.] VEGETA BLES. 1 1 1 French mustard is the best for this. Simmer till hot, and serve. Fried Cabbage. 317. Boil the cabbage in two waters and skim well, drain very well, chop or slice it, fry in batter or good dripping, with pepper and salt. Serve on a hot dish with a few slices of fried beef or ham over it. Spinach with Cream. 318. Boil and drain two pounds of spinach in the usual way. Press it between two plates to free it thoroughly from moisture, and heat it in a clean saucepan with a little pepper and salt and a small lump of butter. When it is dry, add very gradually two tablespoonfuls of boiling cream, and simmer it gently for five minutes. Serve very hot. Spinach with Gravy. 319. Prepare the spinach in the usual way as in the fore- going recipe. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a sauce- pan, put in the spinach and stir it till the butter has dried away. Add a teaspoonful of salt, a very little saccharin and as much grated nutmeg as will cover a sixpence. Stir it again, and moisten with two tablespoonfuls of highly-seasoned veal broth and a teaspoonful of chilli vinegar. Stir it over the fire till the liquid is absorbed, and serve very hot. Cabbage, Creasied. 320. Thoroughly cleanse two young cabbages and boil them until quite soft. Take them out, drain and press them between two hot plates until they are dry, when they may be slightly chopped. Melt a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan, add pepper and salt, then put in the cabbage and turn it about for two or three minutes. When it is thoroughly heated, mix with it very gradually a cupful of cream. 113 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [321- Artichokes, Fried. 321. Pare some artichokes, and boil them in salt and water for about a quarter of an hour. Drain and cut them into slices about a quarter of an inch in thickness, dip them into the white of an egg well beaten, and afterwards strew finely-grated bread on them. Fry in boiling oil or lard till they are nicely browned, and serve piled high on a dish. Artichokes Stewed in Gravy. 322. Strip off the leaves from the artichokes, remove the chokes, and soak them in lukewarm water for three hours, changing the water three or four times. Place them in a saucepan with enough gravy to cover them, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, the juice of a lemon, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Let them stew gently until tender, then serve with the sauce poured over them, and as hot as possible. Artichokes, Mashed. 323. Wash and pare some artichokes ; boil them in salt and water until quite tender, then drain and press the water thoroughly from them. Put them into a saucepan, and beat to a pulp, adding salt, pepper, and a little cream. Serve very hot. Stewed Red Cabbage. 324. Cut a cabbage in shreds, wash it well in salt and water, put it into a stewpan without draining it much, add pepper and a little broth, a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a small lump of butter. Stew till tender. Stewed Cucumbers. 325. Peel and core the cucumbers, cut them into neat pieces, fry in a little butter, put the fried pieces into a stew- pan with a little good gravy, pepper, salt, and a teaspoonful of vinegar. Stew gently till tender. 330.] VEGETABLES. 113 Haricots Verts. 326. Cut French beans very thin (they should be young and tender), boil and drain well ; add salt, pepper, a little good gravy, a bit of butter ; shake well over the fire. Take them off' the fire, and stir-in the beaten yolk of an egg and a little lemon-juice. Serve very hot. Curried Tomatoes. 327. Cut the tomatoes in slices ; either bake or fry them lightly. Grate an apple, chop a bit of onion small, fry in hot butter till quite tender, add two large teaspoonfuls of curry powder, put in a few spoonfuls of good thick gravy, simmer a few minutes, add the tomatoes with a very little lemon-juice ; let it be rather thick. Serve hot. Sea KALE, Stewed. 328. Wash the seakale, and tie it in bundles. Boil it in salted water for a quarter of an hour, then drain it, and put it into a saucepan with as much brown gravy as will cover it ; stew gently till tender. Lay it in a hot dish, stir a little lemon- juice into the sauce and pour it over. Cauliflower with Sauce. 329. Boil two large white cauliflowers in a little salt and water until tender, then cut off the stalks and press them head downwards into a hot basin. Turn them into a tureen, and pour round them a little tomato or piquante sauce. Squashes, or Vegetable Marrows, Fried. 330. Boil the marrows in the ordinary way till they are tender but quite firm. Let them get cold, and cut them into slices. Brush them over with egg, dip in finely-grated bread- crumbs, and fry till they are lightly browned. 8 114 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [334- Squashes, or Vegetable Marrows, Mashed. 331. Boil two good-sized vegetable marrows in a little salt and water till tender. Take them up, drain them, turn them into a bowl and mash them with a wooden spoon. Heat them in a saucepan with a piece of melted butter the size of a walnut, and a little pepper and salt. Marrows dressed thus are excellent, served piled high in the centre of a dish of cutlets. Tomatoes, Baked. 332. Slice six or eight ripe tomatoes, season with pepper and salt, and sprinkle breadcrumbs lightly over them \ divide about two ounces of fresh butter into little pieces, and place these here and there upon them. Bake in a moderate oven. Serve on a hot dish as an accompaniment to roast meat of all kinds. Stewed Mushrooms. 333. Take off the skin and stems, wash the mushrooms quickly, place them in a stewpan (an earthen one is best) with two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of water, a teaspoon ful of vinegar, a saltspoonful of pepper, a teaspoonful of salt. Simmer for twenty minutes, throw in half a gill of cream, and serve very hot. Brussels Sprouts, SautiS. 334. Wash and drain one pound of sprouts ; put them into boiling salt and water for a quarter of an hour. When done, dry them on a clean cloth ; dissolve half an ounce of butter in a pan, and shake the sprouts in it over the fire for a minute or two; season them with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg, and serve very hot. Sprouts about the size of a walnut have the most delicate flavour. SACCHARIN, 115 SACCHARIN. The invention of the above substitute for sugar is a boon to those who suffer from corpulency or skin disease, as the use of sugar in both cases is injurious, and this article, for which we are indebted to Dr. Fahlberg, is a perfect substitute. Experiments have been made of the most exhaAistive nature, that prove it to be perfectly harmless, and Dr. Pavy and others give the following as the result of their investigation : (1) That saccharin is quite innocuous when taken in ordinary dietary. (2) Saccharin does not interfere with or impede the diges- tive processes when taken in any ordinary quantity. The Lancet says its continued use is quite harmless. This being so, sugar — one of the great dietetic articles so constantly used in food, and the greatest of all fattening sub- stances — may be completely cast aside, as saccharin is a perfect substitute, and quite as convenient to use. It is sold in a soluble powder and in the form of a tabloid, containing half a grain, this being equal to about half an ounce of sugar. For stewed fruits, jellies, and all culinary purposes it will be found that two tabloids are equal to quite one ounce of sugar. They are soluble in hot or cold water. One tabloid, or half a grain of the powder, is sufficient for a large cup of tea or coffee. The tabloids are sold at about 25 cents a hundred. The best-known English makers are Burroughs, Wellcorfie and Co., Snow Hill Buildings, London, and they may be had of all lead- ing druggists, grocers, and chemists in the larger American cides. The recipes for jellies, beverages, etc., given in this book have been tried by the author, and he can speak of them as in every way equal to those containing sugar. If it is desirable to make a^iVm jelly, a little more isinglass or gelatine should be iised than is given in the recipe. Sugar, as is well known, is the most fattening article in the daily dietary, and with some people the most bilious, so that it is equally a boon to those who are troubled with an inactive liver. This article 8—2 Ii6 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [335- has a great future before it, and should entirely take the place of sugar in the dietary of those disposed to corpulency. By its aid stewed fruits, tea, coflfee, and other daily requisites are made palatable. FEUITS, JELLIES, AND CREAMS, SWEETENED WITH SACCHARIN. Lemon Cream. 335. Pare into a piut of water the peel of three large lemons ; let it stand four or five hours ; then take them out, and put to the water the juice of four lemons and four grains of saccharin, or eight tabloids dissolved in a little boiling water. Beat the whites of six eggs, and mix it altogether ; strain it through a lawn sieve, set it over a slow fire, stir it one way until as thick as good cream, then take it off the fire, and stir it until cold, and put it into a glass dish. Orange cream Uiay be made in the same way, adding the yolks of three eggs. Lemon Cream without Cream. 336. Put a quart of new milk into a stewpan with the p^el of three small lemons cut thin, four grains of sacchaiin or eight tabloids, three-quarters of an ounce of bitter almouds, blanched and pounded to a paste, and about two ounces of gelatine or isinglass. Boil the whole over a moderate fire for ei^ht or nine minutes, until the gelatine or isinglass is thoroughly dissolved ; then strain it through a fine sieve into a jug with a lip to it, stir in the yolks of seven well- beaten eggs, and pour the mixture from one jug to another until barey cold ; then add the stndiied juice of three small lemons, stir it quickly together, and pour it into an oik J mould. 339-] FRUITS, JELLIES, AND CREAMS. 117 Easpberry Cream without Cream. 337. Mix with a quarter of a pound of raspberries three grains of saccharin or six tabloids, and the whites of four eggs. All to be beaten together for one hour, and then put in lumps in a glass dish. Calf's-foot Jelly. 338. Cut two calves' feet in small pieces after they have been well cleaned and the hair taken off. Stew them very gently in two quarts of water till it is reduced to one quart. When cold, take off the fat and remove the jelly from the sedi- ment. Put it into a saucepan with six grains of saccharin or twelve tabloids, a pint of white wine, a wineglass of brandy in it, the peel of four lemons finely chopped, the whites of four eggs well-beaten, and their shells broken. Put the saucepan on the fire, but do not stir the jelly after it begins to warm. Let it boil a quarter of an hour after it rises to a head ; then cover it close, and let it stand about half an hour; after which, pour it through a jelly-bag, first dipping the bag in hot water to prevent waste, and squeezing it quite dry. Pour the jelly through and through until clear, then put it into a mould. Gooseberry Fool. 339. Put two quarts of gooseberries into a stewpan with a quart of water; when they begin to turn yellow and swell, drain the water from them and press them with the back of a spoon through a colander; sweeten them with saccharin to your taste, and set them to cool. Put two quarts of milk over the fire, beaten up with the yolks of four eggs and a little grated nutmeg ; stir it over the fire and then gradually into the cold gooseberries ; let it stand until cold, and serve it. The eggs may be left out, and milk only may be used. Half this quantity n.akes a good dishful. Ii8 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [340- Stewed Prunes. 340. Take one pound of prunes, wash them in cold water, then put them into a stewpan with one quart of water, two grains of saccharin and two or three drops of cochineal ; then gradually bring to the boil, and stew gently for an hour. Serve when cold. Lemon Jelly. 341. Soak one and a half ounces of gelatine in half a pint of water for half an hour. Put into a saucej^an one pint and a half of water with the peel of one lemon and also the juice. Let it boil for a few minutes and then pour it on the gelatine ; sweeten with three grains of saccharin, return it all to the saucepan, and stir quickly into it the white and shell of one egg well-beatc-n. Let it gradually come to the boil, and boil for a minute ; then stand it away from the fire for two minutes, skim well and strain through a jeliy-bag until clear, and then add one wineglass of brandy. When nearly cold, pour into a jelly-mould to set. Claret Jelly. 342. Take one bottle of claret, the juice and rind of a lemon, one small pot of red-currant jelly, six grains of saccharin, one and a half ounces of isinglass, and one wineglass of brandy. Boil all together for five minutes ; strain into a mould and let it get cold ; serve with cream sauce — recipe for which as follows : Half a pint of cream, sweetened, and flavoured with vanilla and slightly whisked, poured round the jelly. Strawberry Jelly. 343. Take a quart of fine ripe strawberries, and pour over them a pint of water that has boiled for twenty minutes, with eight grains of saccharin. The next day drain off the syrup from the strawberries without bruising them, and, to increase the fruity flavour, add a little lemon-juice. Claiify two ounces and a half of isinglass in a pint of water, 347.] FRUITS, JELLIES, AND CREAMS. iic and let it stand till nearly cold ; then mix it with the fruit-juice and pour into moulds. Orange Jelly. 344. To the juice of eight fine sweet oranges anfl four Seville, well strained, add an ounce and a half of isinglass dissolved in boiling water ; sweeten with four grains of saccha- rin, and stir it gently over the fire, but do not let it boil. Pour the jelly into moulds when nearly cold, the moulds having been previously filled with cold water. Currant and Easpberry Jelly. 345. Bruise in a jar two pounds of red and one pound of white currants with a pint of red raspberries ; place the jar in boiling water to extract the juice. Boil three-quarters of a pint of water, two ounces of isinglass, and twelve grains of saccharin. Allow both the fruit-juice, when strained, and the sweetened isinglass to cool ; then mix equal quantities, pour into shapes, and place the jelly in ice. Bum Jelly. 346. Dissolve twelve grains of saccharin in a pint of boiling water ; mix with this two ounces of clarified isinglass or gela- tine, and add the juice of a lemon and a wineglassful of fine old Jamaica rum. Pour the jelly into a damp mould, set it in ice or in a cool place till it is stiS", then turn it out and serve. Stewed Apples. 347. Take three or four very good American apples ; peel and core carefully ; cut into slices. Put the slices into a sauce- pan with a tablespoonful of water ; boil till quite tender, then beat them quite smooth with a fork, adding saccharin and lemon-juice to taste. Not the least lump or bit of core should be left. i20 foods for the fat. [348. Eed Rhubarb. 348. Cut one pound of rhubarb one inch long ; put into a pan with two tablespoonfuls of water and three grains of saccharin ; stir on a slow fire till tender. Comp6te of Cherries. 349. Choose large, ripe, light-coloured cherries, wipe them, and leave on them about an inch of stalk, making all uniform. Put eight grains of saccharin into a saucepan with a breakfast- cupful of water, and let it boil for a minute ; then put into it a pound and a half of the cherries, and simmer them for three minutes. Dish them when cold with the stalks uppermost. A tablespoonful of brandy may be added if liked. Snow Pudding. 350. Put into half a pint of cold water half a packet of gelatine. Let it stand one hour ; then add one pint of boiling water, eight grains of saccharin, and the juice of two lemons. Stir and strain, and let it stand all night ; beat very stiff the whites of two eggs, and beat well into the mixture ; pour into a mould. Plain S\^^et Omelette. 351. Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, add the yolks, beat again till quite smooth ; put in a tablespoonful of cream, a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, and a little saccharin ; put half an ounce of butter into the omelette-pan, let it just boil, and pour in the omelette ; shake it till it is even all over the pan. When nicely browned on the under side, i:)ass a red-hot salamander over the top just to set it, double up, and slide on to a hot dish, and serve at once. This ome- lette may be made quite plain, with only a little salt if not liked sweet. It is very light if properly made. Custard. 352. Have the yolk of one fresh egg, T)pat it a little and pour over it, mixing the two well, a teacupful of thin cream; 355-] FRUITS, JELLIES, AND CREAMS. 121 add a little saccharin and essence of vanilla to taste ; stir over the fire in a small saucepan till it thickens, but keep it just off the boil. A teaspoonful of brandy or rum improves it, but it must not be added when very hot. This is nice to eat with stewed fruit. Nourishing Cream. 353. Beat the yolks of two eggs ; add a little saccharin, the rind, lightly grated, and strained juice of half a lemon or orange. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, adding to them, while beating, a little saccharin. Put the jar containing the yolks in a pot of boiling water ; cook gently, stirring all the time ; when it begins to thicken, stir in the whites of the eggs until well mixed ; remove it from the fire, and let it cool. Serve in custard-glasses. Rhubarb Mould. 354. One quart of red rhubarb cut in pieces, put into a saucepan with a lid ; let it boil till it is a pulp. Soak half an ounce of gelatine in cold water, pour on to it just enough boil- ing water to dissolve it, add it to the rhubarb with sixteen grains of saccharin ; let it boil fifteen minutes ; add a few drops of essence of lemon, butter a mould, and pour in the rhubarb. Next day dip the mould in hot water, and turn the rhubarb out on a glass dish. Apple Snow. 355. Reduce half-a-dozen apples to a pulp, press them through a sieve, sweeten with saccharin, and flavour them. Take the whites of six eggs, whisk them for some minutes with a little saccharin. Beat the pulp to a froth, then mix the two together, and whisk them until they look like stiff snow. Pile high in rough pieces on a glass dish, stick a sprig of myrtle in the middle, and garnish with small pieces of bright-coloured jelly. 122 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [355. Apple Shape. 356. Me't a heaped tablespoonful of isinglass in a liltle water. Take half a pint of nicely flavoured apple-pulp, mix it well with half a pint of cream, then add the dissolved isinglass, and sweeten with saccharin to taste. Let it stand till nearly cold ; add a glass of wine or a tablespoonful of brandy, pour into a buttered mould, and keep it in a cool place until the next day. Rhubarb Fool. 357. Wash and, if necessary, peel the rhubarb and cut it up into small pieces. Put as much as is to be used into a jar which has a closely-fitting lid, with as much saccharin as will be required to sweeten it. Set this jar in a saucepan of boil- ing water, and keep it boiling until the fruit is quite soft. Rub it through a sieve with the back of a wooden spoon, and mix with the pulp as much cream as will make it of the consistency of gruel. Taste it, and, if not sufficiently sweet, add a little more saccharin. Serve cold in a glass dish. Plums, Comp6te of. 358. Boil half a pint of water with ten grains of saccharin ; put in a pound of plums, and let them simmer until they are tender, without being broken, if pos>iijle. Lift them out, place them on a compote dish, and pour the syrup over them. Cream may be eaten with them. Moulded Pear^ 359. Peel and cut the pears into quarters ; put them into a jar, with one pint of water, eight cloves, a small piece of cinna- mon, and sweeten the whole nicely with saccharin ; cover down the top of the jar, and bake the pears in a gentle oven until perfectly tender, but do not allow them to break. When done, lay the pears in a plain mould, which should be well wetted, and boil half a pint of the liquor the pears were baked in with a quarter of a pint of raisin wine, a strip of lemon-peel, the juice ^es.} FRUITS, JELLIES, AND CREAMS, 123 of half a lemon, and one ounce of gelatine ; let these in- gredients boil quickly for five minutes, then strain the liquid warm over the pears, put the mould in a cool place, and when the jelly is firm turn it out on a glass dish. Damsons, Comp6te of. 360. Take eight grains of saccharin and one pint of water ; let it simmer on the fire until the saccharin is dissolved, then throw in the white of an egg, and take off the scum as it rises. When the syrup has boiled fifteen minutes drop into it, one by- one, a quart of sound damsons, and simmer until soft without breaking them. Remove them from the syrup, and boil it again ; let it cool, and pour it over the damsons ; which should have been previously arranged in a glass dish. A glass of whipped cream is a nice accompaniment to this dish. Apricots, CoMrdxE of. 361. Take one dozen large, sound apricots; halve them, remove the stones, and blanch the kernels. Put twelve grains of saccharin with a pint and a half of water. Let it boil; then put in the apricots, and let them simmer very gently for a few minutes. Take them out, drain them, and arrange them in a dish. When the syrup is cold, pour it over the fruit ; put half a kernel upon each piece of apricot. BEVERAGES. Lemonade. 362. Put the juice of a lemon to a pint of water in which one grain of saccharin has been dissolved ; then add the white of an egg and froth up. It may be iced. Tamarind Water. 363. Boil two ounces of tamarinds with a quarter of a pound of stoned raisins in three pints of water for an hour ; strain it, and when cold it is fit for use. 124 foods for the fat, [364- Orange Gin. 364. To one gallon of the strongest gin put the rinds, pared very thin, of eighteen Seville oranges and sixteen grains of saccharin. Let the gin remain on the peel in a stone jar or bottle for a month (the bottle mast be kept air-tight), then bottle for use. If required it will be fit for use at once. Cherry Brandy. 365. Fill wide-mouthed bottles with good Morella cherries nearly full; prick the cherries first in three or four places with a fine needle ; put into each bottle four grains of saccharin, fill up with brandy. Cork, and cover with bladder very tight. Best kept for a year. Eggs and Brandy. 366. Beat up two eggs to a froth in two ounces of cold spring water ; add a little saccharin and pour in one ounce of brand}^ stirring all the time. Cream of Tartar. (A Cooling Drink.) 367. Put half an ounce of cream of tartar, the juice of one lemon, and one grain of saccharin into a jug, and pour over a quart of boiling water. Cover till cold. Egg and Sherry. 368. Beat up with a fork an egg till it froths ; add a very small quantity of milk, and two tablespoonfuls of water ; mix well, pour in a wineglassful of sherry, and serve before it gets flat. An American Drink. 369. Put the juice of a lemon to a pint of water in v/hich one grain of saccharin has been dissolved ; then add the white of an egg and froth up. It may be iced. Claret Cup. 370. Take one bottle of claret, one bottle of soda-water, about half a pound of pounded ice, four grains of saccharin, a 374-] BEVERAGES, 125 little grated nutmeg, one liqueur-glass of maraschino, and a sprig of green borage. Put all these ingredients into a silver cup, regulating the proportion of ice by the state of the weather ; if very warm a larger quantity would be necessary. Hand the cup round with a clean napkin passed through one of the handles, that the edge of the cup may be wiped after each guest has partaken of the contents thereof. Egg Wine. 371. Well beat a nice new-laid egg with a little water, and then pour over it a glass of white wine made very hot, with half a tumbler of water and a little saccharin. Stir it all the time until well mixed together ; then set it over the fire until it thickens and is very hot, without coming to a boil. It must be stirred one way all the time, and when done poured into a glass, and served with a thin slice of toasted bread cut into long slices and placed on a plate crossed over each other. A little grated nutmeg may be added if the flavour is liked. Lemonade. 372. Grate the peel of six lemons ; pour a quart of boiling water on it. Let it stand some time ; then add the juice of the lemons (take care not to let the lemon pips fall into the liquid), sweeten it with one or two grains of saccharin, and run it through a jelly-bag. Wine Caudle. 373. Beat with a whisk the white of one egg, and the yolks of eight ; stir into it a bottle of white wine, a pint of water, the peel of a lemon, and eight grains of saccharin. Set the mixture on the fire and keep stirring it ; remove it as soon as it boils. Pour the caudle into a bowl or small glasses. For Summer Drinks. 374. One pound of red currants bruised with some rasp- berries, eight grains of saccharin, added to a gallon of cold water ; this is well stirred, allowed to settle, and then bottled. 126 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [375. Apple Water. 375. Pare and core three or four large apples, put them into a quart jug with two grains of saccharin, a few strips of very thin lemon-peel, the strained juice of half a lemon. Fill the jug with boiling water ; cover it over, and leave till cold. SAUCES FOR FISH, MEATS, VEGETABLES, AND SALADS. Mayonnaise Sauce. 376. Take one yolk of a raw egg, salt, pepper, and a little raw mustard. Mix these together with a silver fork in a large plate ; add salad oil, little by little (it will take almost any quantity, but you must be guided by taste and the quantity required). Mix by stirring one way until thick and smooth ; then add vinegar enough to tbin it a little. If there is any difficulty found in getting the oil to mix smoothly, add just a few drops of vinegar from time to time and keep stirring, and it will finally come right. Lobster Sauce. 377. Break a lobster carefully, cut the meat into small pieces, beat the spawn very fine in a marble mortar with a bit of butter. Put a little melted butter on the fire, add the spawn to it, also one teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, pepper, salt, cayenne, and about half a teacup of cream ; mix well, simmer a little, put in the pieces of lobster, simmer again, but do not boil, or it will curdle. Sauce Tartare. 378. One saltspoonful of good cayenne pepper in very fine powder, half a saltspoonful of salt, a little saccharin ; mix well, then add one tablespoonful of the strained juice of a lemon, 383.] SAUCES FOR FISH, MEATS, VEGETABLES. 127 two tablespoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, one teaspoon ful of mush- room ketchup, and a small wineglass of port wine. Put all this into a jar, and place the jar in a pan of boiling water to heat the sauce. Very good to mix with other gravy, or to use with anything grilled. Sauce Espagnole. 379. Boil two eggs hard, chop up fine ; take half a cup of thin cream or good milk ; add to it the beaten raw yolk of an egg ; warm on the fire to thicken a little. Add pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, and the chopped eggs. Heat well, and serve. Sauce Piquante. 380. Boil together a tablespoonful of chopped onion, same of parsley, and of mushrooms, in one ounce of butter for five minutes ; then add half a pint of good stock, add salt and cayenne, and stir in last one tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil a few minutes. Cucumber Sauce. 381. Peel some cucumbers, cut up very small ; put them into a saucepan with a little broth, half a tablespoonful of vinegar, salt, cayenne, and a little essence of celery (or omit the salt and use celery salt) ; a small bit of boiled onion may be added if liked, and a bit of butter. Stew gently till tender ; rub through a sieve. Serve with any cutlets. Dutch Sauce. 382. The yolks of two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, quarter of a pint of cream, a small piece of butter, a little cayenne, and a blade of mace. To be all stirred together one way and simmered till it is the consistency of custard. Serve very hot. Horseradish Sauce. 383. Half a teaspoonful of mustard and a little salt ; work into it two tablespoonfuls of cream until quite smooth, one or 128 FOODS FOR IHE FAT. [384 two teaspoonfuls of vinegar, and two tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish. If too thick or hot, add a httle more cream. The mustard can be omitted if not liked very hot. Cold Sauce Piquante. 384. Boil two eggs very hard, rub the yolks through a sieve, add one tablespoonful of salad oil, tarragon vinegar, chilli vinegar, and common vinegar, a little minced parsley and shallot, pepper, salt, a teacupful of cream ; stir all well and smooth together. It is better to put the vinegar in last. Sauce for Cold Game. 385. One teaspoonful of made mustard, a very little saccha- rin, two teaspoonfuls of salad oil; mix smooth. Beat the yolks of two eggs, add salt, pepper, and some minced parsley ; mix well with the above, then add a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar and half a glass of white wine. Salad Mixture. 386. Two yolks of hard-boiled eggs, rubbed very smooth, with a good pinch of salt, a little saccharin, a teaspoonful of raw mustard ; mix all well. Next, three tablespoonfuls of salad oil worked in by degrees, four tablespoonfuls of cream ; lastly, one to two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. More cream can be added before the vinegar if too thick or if it is too hot of mustard. Pudding Sauce. 387. The beaten yolk of an egg, mixed with a little saccharin and half a teacupful of cream. Stir over the fire until it thickens, then add half a wineglass of wine ; warm it, but do not let it boil. Lemon Sauce. 388. Cut the rind of a lemon very thin ; boil it for three minutes in a teacup of water ; stir in the juice of the lemon, strained, and add a little saccharin and a few drops of brandy. 393.] SAUCES FOR FISH, MEATS, VEGETABLES. 129 Sauce Piquante. 389. Half a teacup of gravy, one tablespoonful of French mustard, two of Worcester sauce, two of port wine, a little saccharin, one teaspoonful of shallot and chilli vinegar. Warm gently over a slow fire, and serve over warmed game; or pieces of meat or game can be warmed in it. Brown Onion Sauce. 390. Slice some onions, about five ; brown in a stewpan with butter ; add half a pint of good stock, and stew till tender. Tomato Sauce. 391. Melt in a stewpan a dozen or two ripe tomatoes (which, before putting into the stewpan, cut in two and squeeze the juice and the seeds out). Then put two shallots, one onion, a clove, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, a few leaves of mace, and when melted rub them through a tamis. Mix a few spoonfuls of good espagnole and a little salt and pepper with this pur^e. Boil it for twenty minutes, and serve. Mint Sauce. 392. Wash and free from grit three tablespoonfuls of young green mint, chop exceedingly fine and put it in a sauce-tureen with a teacupful of vinegar, and sweeten according to taste with saccharin. Mint sauce should be allowed to stand an hour or two before being used. Tartar Sauce. 393. Eub the hard-boiled yolks of three eggs to a powder ; add a saltspoonful of mustard, half a saltspoonful of salt, half a grain of cayenne, and the beaten yolk of one egg ; stir in drop by drop four tablespoonfuls of lucca oil, two table- spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and one tablespoonful of French vinegar ; continue to stir till the sauce becomes thick ; 9 130 FOODS FOR THE FAT, [394. chop quite fine one shallot, a piece of garlic as l3ig as a pea, and one small gherkin; stir these into the sauce, and serve cold. Royal Sauce for Fish. 394. Beat two raw yolks of eggs with two ounces of fresh butter ; add gradually a teaspoonful of elder vinegar, a tea- spoonful of tarragon vinegar^ a teaspoonful of soy, a pinch of cayenne, and a very small quantity of nutmeg. Pour the mixture into an earthen jar ; set this in a small saucepan of boiling water, and keep it boiling, stirring briskly all the time, until the sauce begins to thicken and presents a rich, smooth appearance ; be careful that it does not curdle, which it will quickly do if not taken from the fire as soon as it is smooth and thick. Time, about ten minutes. Italian Sauce. 395. Put the following ingredients into a stewpan : Two spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, one of parsley, half a shallot, the same of bay-leaf; add pepper and salt to taste. Stew them gently with just enough espagnole sauce to moisten them, and thin to a proper consistency with good strong broth. Brown Butter Sauce for Fish. 396. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and stir it till it is brown without burning. Add two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, four tablespoonfuls of good brown sauce, a tablespoonful of Harvey, a teaspoonful of bruised capers, and half a teaspoonful of anchovy. Stir the same over the fire till it boils, and serve. Spinach Sauce for Boiled Fowls, etc. 397. AVash the spinach in two or three waters, pick the leaves from the stalks, drain it, and stew it with as much water only as will keep it from burning. Squeeze the moisture 40 r.] SAUCES FOR FISH, MEATS, VEGETABLES. 131 from it, and beat it with a wooden spoon till smooth. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan, put in the spinach, and stir it till it is quite hot and dry. Add pspper and salt, and as much boiling milk as will make the same of the consistency of thick cream. Mushroom Sauce. 398. Button or flap mushrooms may be used for this sauce. They should be rinsed in cold water, drained, and dried in a soft cloth, and if flap ones cut into pieces. Simmer the mush- rooms, without stalks, in half a pint of beef gravy ; add a little mushroom ketchup and an ounce of butter. If liked, flavour with lemon peel, and squeeze in some of the juice before servinj^. Apple Sauce. 399. Pare, core, and slice four or five apples ; place them in a saucepan with only just enough water to keep them from burning. Let them simmer gently, stirring frequently, over a slow fire, until they are reduced to a pulp ; turn them into a bowl, and beat them well ; sweeten with saccharin according to taste, and add the squeeze of a lemon, and a small piece of butter. Gooseberry Sauce. 400. Cut the tops and stalks from half a pint of green gooseberries ; boil them until tender, press them through a sieve, and mix them with a little butter. Various seasonings may be used for this sauce, such as grated ginger or grated lemon-rind, grated nutiueg, a little saccharin, or cayenne pepper ; a wineglassful of sorrel or spinach -juice is a decided improvement. Sauce for Mutton Chops. 401. Take three tablespoonfuls of gravy, two of wine, two of Worcester sauce or ketchup, salt, pepper, and a teaspoonful of shallot vinegar ; stir till hoi; puur over the chops. o o 132 FOODS FOR THE FAT. [402. Lemon Sauce. . 402. Cut the rind of a lemon very thin, boil it for three minutes in a teacup of water, stir in the juice of the lemon, strained ; add a little saccharin and a few drops of brandy. Pudding Sauce. 403. The beaten yolk of an egg, mixed with a little sac- charin and half a teacupful of cream. Stir over the fire until it thickens, then add half a wineglass of wine ; warm it, but don't let it boil.' INDEX The figures rejer to the Aerated drinks and waters, 110, 111 112, 113 'Aids to Long Life,' pages 11, 19 Alcohol : Effects of, 87 Injury by, 88 Best mode of taking, 90 Quantity of safe, 88 Not fattening, 88 Appetite and food, 26 Asiatics, Food of, page 20 Assam tea, 105 Assimilation of food, 51 Banting's diet, 25 Solids in, 38 System wrong, 31 Beer injurious to fat people, 89 A cause of gout and bilious- ness, 89 Beverages : American drink, 369 Apple water, 375 Cherry brandy, 365 Claret-cup, 370 Cream of tartar, 367 Egg and chablis, 368 ,, brandy, 366 ,, wine, 371 Emit drinks, 374 Lemonade, b62 Orange gin. 364 Tamarind water, 363 Wine caudle, 373 Breakfast di-hes : Baked egg?, 144 Bloaters, 159 Brawn, Duck olives, 167 number of the paragraphs. Breakfast dishes {continued) : Eggs and garlic, 160 Eish rissoles, 150 Eried soles or cod, 145 Haddocks, dried, 162 Herrings, pickled, 163 Hunter's beef, 141 Indian devil mixttu-e, 142 Irish sandwiches, 133 Kidney balls, 152 ,, omelette, 164 ,, minced, 165 Lamb cutlets, 134 Ling, fresh, 158 Mushrooms and eggs, 161 Mackerel, boiled, 135 J, broiled, 136 ,, „ and tarra- gon butter, 137 Meat, hot, devilled, 147 Meat rissoles, German, 138 Mullet, red, bakeH, 156 Mushroom toast, 128 ,, au beurre, 129 ,, grilled, 130 Mutton chops, 127 „ kidneys, fried, 126 ,, ,, stewed, 132 ,, cutlets and tomato sauce, 131, 401 Mutton kidneys, broiled, 166 Pig's kidneys, broiled, 139 „ „ fried. 140 Pheasant, potted, 168 Savoury omelette, 143 Salmon, kippered, grilled, 146 Sheep's tongue--, stewed, 149 Sweetbreads, Irowned, 154 Trout, fried, 155 134 INDEX. Breakfast dishes {continued) : Trout, broiled, 170 Veal cake, 169 Blood, Circulation of, 5 Healthy, 13 Brahmin's food, page 20 Bi'eathlessness in corpulency, 4 Burgundy, g'od in coipulence, 92 Characteristics of, 93 High price of, 94 Byron, Lord, on Fat, page 23 Carbo-hydrate, Meaning of, page 22 Carlsbad for corpulency, 'o2 Chablis wine, 94 Chateau Yquem, 94 Chinese way of making tea, 101 Claret good for the fat, 92 Climate and food, 49 Cocoa as a dietic, 109 Injurious to fat people, 109 Coffee, page 37 As a i-timulant Its use, page 37 When first used, page 37 Useful in obesity, page 38 „ in fatigue, page 38 Constipatidn in corpulency, 6 Corpulency, Breathlessness in, 4 Cause of, 3 Commencement of, 1 Constipation in, 6 Death from, 11 Diet in, 13 Different exercise in, 4 Faintness in, 11 Erupti(ms in, 9 Gout in, 9 Liability to cold in, 7 Liability to disease in, 9 Liquids in, 3 Medicine injurious in, 12 Mental activity in, 8 Perspiration in, 9 Perverted nutrition, 12 Piles in, 6 Kheumatism in, 9 Rules in, 13 Shortness of breath in, 11 Shortness of life in, 11 Sluggish circulation in, 6 Subjects of, 2 Corpulency {continued) : Weakness in, 10 Diarrhoea, 7 Diet, influence on character, 10 Hospital, 27 Prison, page 15 Digestion improved by exercise, 78 Dinner dishes : Beef, minced, 279 ,, curried, 277 „ fried, 227 „ kidney to dress, 278 ,, steak, fried, 228 Broiled chicken, 237 Calf's liver, a la mode, 275 Calf's head and oysters, 284 ,, ragotit, 285 Calf's heart, roasted, 229 ,, sweetbreads, stewed, 230 Chicken, a la Marengo, 272 ,, devilled, 273 „ fried, 274 Fillets de boeuf aux truflBes, 264 Fowls, boiled, 236 „ Guinea, roasted, 235 Indian fagadu, 258 „ hash, 233 Lamb, Loin of braised, 276 ,, chops, with tomato .^auce, 286 Larks, broiled, 242 Leveret, roasted, 260 Liver, fried, 243 Meat-pie, h, la Don Pedro, 3G1 Minced collops, 231 Mutton, kebobbed, 256 ,, cutlets to stew, 283 ,, Neck of, boiled, 255 ,, roebuck fashion, 257 „ Shoulder of boned, 232 ,, curried, 234 Norman hash, 282 Ox-tail, stewed. 225 ,, with spinach, 226 Omelette, with gravy, 262 Partridge, broilc'l, 250 „ cold, 252 „ Salmis of, 251 Peafowl, roasted, 249 Perdrix an Vin, 244 Pigeons, 238 INDEX. 135 Dinner dishes {continued) : Pigeons, compote of, 253 „ stewed with mush- rooms, 239 Pigeons, with watercress, 254 Pheasant, boiled, 245 „ broiled, 246 „ masted, 248 ,, Salmi of, 247 Rabbits, boiled, 265 „ a la Tartare, 267 „ fricasseed, 270 „ Ragotlt of, 271 „ roasted, 266 „ stewed, 269 „ v.'ith tomato sauce, 268 Sweetbreads, curried, 259, 240 ,, with sauce piqu- ante, 241 Venison, to roast, 280 „ hashed, 281 Drink in corpulency, 112 Eating to live, 35 Between meals, 35 Ebstein's diet, 25 System for reducing fat, 32 Its composition, 32 Esquimaux live on fat, 62 Exercise, page 29 Amount of necessary, 79 After meals, injurious, 83 Importance of, 76 In daily work, 80 Kegular, 81 Riding, 82 Earinaceous food, 37 Eat: A sign of health, 54 Heat-producing, 60 In body. Weight of, 2, 53 In muscle. Danger of, 36 In Arctic regions, 61 Keeps the body warm, 54 Prevents starvation, 56 Resists cold, 63 Stored food, 55 Sustains heat of body, 54, 64 Sustains life, page 24 System for reducing, 36 Uses of, page 24 Fatigue, Tea, useful in, 99 Eish : Cod, crimped, 224 Haddocks, broiled, 208 „ baked, 209 fillets of, 210 Lobster, cold, 201 „ dressed with sauce piquante, 202 „ salad, 203 ,, k la creme, 204 Mullet, Gray, broiled, 15^5 „ stewed, 196 Oysters, baked, 222 „ cold, 197 „ fritters, 223 „ omelette of, 198 „ scalloped, 199 Perch, fried with herbs, 200 Plaice, boiled, 217 ,, filleted, 215 Red Mullet, broiled, 211 „ fried, 212 Smelts, 213 „ broiled, 214 Sole au vin blanc, 219 „ broiled, 221 „ filleted (Italian), 220 Whiting, fried, 205 „ au gratin, 206 „ aux fines herbes, 207 „ broiled, 217 „ stewed, 216 Elesh, loss of. Safe when, 18 Food and appetite, 26 After forty, 69 Amount to be consumed, page 28 During growth, 69 Drink, its meaning, 42 Chosen : its requirements, 30 Classes of, 43 Climate, 49 Decrease of weight under cer- tain, 24 Different kinds. Vital value of, 48 Equivalent of, 21 For hard Avork, 14 In corpulency, 17 Limit of, page 27 Meals of, 29 Nitrogenous, 43 136 INDEX. Food and appetite {continued) • Non-Nitrogenous, 43 Required, 14 To make muscle, 16 To sustain strength, 19 To reduce fat, 28 Uncimsumed, 50 Under cold, 15 French, Corpulence of, 3 Germans fat from beer-drinking, 89 Gout f lom too much food, 50 Gravy, page 81 Guy's Hospital : its diet, 27 Heart, to strengthen, 81 Height to weight, 41 Correct, 41 Indian tea, 105 Lambert, Daniel, Weight of, 2 Man a machine, 43 Compared to railway engine, 47 Food, various in quantity, 68 Meat, Excess of, 67 Moleschott's diet-tables, 39 Muscles improved by exercise, 77 Napoleon's wine, page 33 Nitrogenous food : its composition, 44 Makes living tissue, page 21 The instrument of life, 45 Non-nitrogenous food : its composi- tion, 46 Nutrition perverted, 12 Obese, Temperament of, 8 Drink in, 13 Exercise for, 13 Obesity, Distinctions in, 36 Occupation influences amovmt of food, 49 Oertel's diet rules 25 Improved blood and muscle in, 34 System for reducing fat, 33 Over-eating, Evils of, page 27 Effects of, 66 Palpitation caused by tea, 98 Piles in corpulency, 6 Plain living healthy, 65 Playfair's, Dr. Lyon, table of diet 22 Kats, Experiments on, page 25 Saccharin, page 115 Where to procure, page 115 Saccharin sweets and jellies : Apple. shape, 356 ^, snow, 355 Apricot, Compote of, 361 Calf's-foot jelly, 338 Claret jelly, 342 Cherries, Compote of, 349 Currant and raspberry jelly 345 Custard, 352 Damson, Comp6te of, 360 Gooseberry fool, 339 Lemon cream, 335 ,, jelly, 341 ,, cream without cream, 336 Omelette plain, sweet, 351 Orange jelly, 344 Nourishing cream, 353 • Pears, moulded, 359 Plums, Compote of, 358 Kaspberry cream, 337 Eed rhubarb, 348 Bhubarb mould, 354 „ fool, 357 Rum jelly, 346 Stewed apples, 347 ,, prunes, 344 Strawberry jelly, 343 Salad mixture, 386 Sauce : Apple, 399 Brown onion, 390 Brown butter, 396 Cucumber, 381 Game, cold, 385 Cold piquante, 384 Dutch, 382 Gooseberry, 400 Horseradish, 383 Itilian, 395 INDEX. 137 Sauce {continued) : Lemon, 388 Lobster, 377 Mayonnaise, 376 Mint, 392 Mush room, 398 Pudding, 387 Royal, 394 Sauce tar tare, 378 „ espagnole, 379 Tomato, 391 Scotch, Leanness of, 2 Season and food, 49 Sex : its influence, 69 Skin, Action of, in corpulency, 78 Soups : Brilla, 191 Brown, 192 Cabbage, 189 Carrot, 190 Fish, 183 Fowl or chicken, 179 Game, 180 Giblet, 193 Green pea, 181 Hare, 178 Hunter's, 173 Imperial, 193* Julienne, 171 . Kidney, 185 Lobster, 194 Mulligatawny, 174 ,, rabbit, 172 Ox- tail, clear, 175 Oyster, 182 Pheasant, 176 ,, another way, 177 Eabbit, 187 Tomato, 184 Vegetable, 188 White, 186 Stimulants in corpulency, page 32 Best mode of taking, page 33 Tea, page 34 Adulterated, 101, 102 Evil effects of, in excess, 98 How to make, ] 00 Moderate use of, beneficial, 105 Not a food, 97 Russian mode of making, 101 Tia {continued) : Use of, 97 Wholesome, 105 Varicose veins in corpulency, 7 Vegetables for corpulent people, page 111 Artichokes, boiled, 298 „ fried, 321 „ stewed in gravy, 322 „ mashed, 323 Asparagus, boiled, 298 Beans, stewed, 301 Broccoli, boiled, 289 Brussels sprouts, 307 ,. saute, 334 Cabbage,' boiled, 289 Cardoons, boiled, 296 Cauliflowers, boiled, 302 Cabbage, fried, 317 „ creamed, 320 Cauliflower, with sauce, 329 Celery, stewed, 295 Cucumbers, stewed, 325 French beans, boiled, 300 Green peas, boiled, 305 Haricots verts, 326 Leeks, boiled, 306 Lettuce, stewed, 293 Mushrooms, grilled, 294 „ broiled, 309 „ stewed, 330 Onions, boiled, 311 Portugal onions, stewed, 312 „ roasted, 313 Portugal onions, curried, 314 Ragotit of celery, 315 Red cabbage, stewed, 324 Savoy cabbage, 288 Scotch kale, 290 Seakale, boiled, 291 „ stewed, 328 Spinach, boiled, 292 „ with cream, 318 „ ,, gravy, 319 Tomatoes, curried, 327 „ baked, 332 Turnips, boiled, 297 Vegetable marrow, boiled, 303 „ in gravy 304 i3S INDEX. Vegetables for corpuleBt people [continued) : Vegetable marrow, fried , 320 „ mashed, 321 ,, mixed, 316 Weig^ to height, 40 Wines, Sweet, injurious, page 34 Wines {continued) : Light, best for fat people, 93 To be avoided, 94 Water, amount required. 111 In corpulency, 112 How used in the system, 113 Wine-merchant, To chocse, 95 Wine with meals, 96 THE END. United States Dispensatory. New (i6th) edition. Illustrated. Carefully revised and re- written by H. C. Wood, M.D., LL.D., Joseph P. Remington, Ph.M., F.C.S., Samuel P. Sadtler, Ph.D., F.C.S. Containing more than 800 pages of new material. Green title label distin- guishes the binding of the sixteenth edition. Cloth extra, $7.00; best leather, raised bands, $8.00; half Russia, raised bands, $g.oo. For facility of reference, Denison's Patent Index will be inserted for ^i.oo additional to these prices. The sixteenth edition contains over 800 pages of new material, including the latest information about the mydriatic alkaloids, the new antipyretics, antiseptics, etc. The National Formulary has also been incorporated, and the gain to both authorities of having their valuable information connected, so that whilst working from a formula the operator may have a reference to the article on the subject in the Dispensatorj-, is one that every practical pharmacist will thoroughly appreciate. The work is recognized by the government of the United States as the standard work of reference, and is endorsed and universally used by colleges of medicine and pharmacy and State examining boards. 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" We commend this work as a most valuable addition not only to pharma- ceutical literature, but to the medical profession as almost invaluable. Its literature, its chemistry', and its pharmacy are fully up to any similar work here or abroad of its kind, and the high standard of excellence in the past is only enhanced by the thoroughly reliable and trustworthy work of the present edition . ' ' — Pharmaceutical Record. *^* For sale by all Booksellers, or will be sent by the Publishers, free of expense, on receipt of the price. J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY, 71S-717 MARKET STREET, PHILADELPHIA, PA. AN ELEMENTARY TREATISE ON Human Anatomy. By Joseph Leidy, M.D., Professor of Anatomy in the University of Pennsylvania, etc., etc. New (second) edition, rewritten and enlarged. Containing 495 illus- trations. 8vo. Extra cloth, $6.00 ; sheep, $6.50. 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