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 HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE 
 
 OF THE 
 OF 
 
 HOIiYROODHOUSE. 
 
 The Abbey and Palace of Holyroodbouse, both of them most 
 notable in Scottish history, are situated at the eastern and 
 lower extremity of the long hill upon which the old town of 
 Edinburgh is built. The Palace fronts, to the westward, an 
 open court or space, which is interposed between it and the 
 termination of that long street called the Canongate, which, 
 geographically considered, is but an elongation of the High 
 Street of Edinburgh, as' that, again, is of the Lawnmarket and 
 Castlehill. In short, the Castle, at the west end, and the 
 Palace and Abbey, at the other, mark the two opposite ex- 
 tremities of the old town. As the Palace fronts the west, it, 
 and other contiguous buildings, completely screen from that 
 point of view, the Abbey, which stretches, lengthways, from 
 the north side of it, eastward. On the N. W. both are over- 
 looked by the Caltonhill ; and on the south by the huge cre- 
 scent of beetling cliffs, called Salisbury Crags, behind which 
 
4 <>AL.\CE AND CIIAPEL-ROYAL 
 
 rises, in ihc form of a camel, the hill of Arthur Seat, to the 
 height of 65G feet above its base. Directly eastward is the open 
 level ground, called St. Anne's Gardens, which is bounded on 
 the east, by a high wail, at the south-east angle of which 
 there is an opening into the Duke's Walk, so called from its 
 Laving been a favourite promenade of the Duke of York, after- 
 wards James the Seventh, when he occupied the palace. This 
 walk, having a dead wall on its north side, and considerable 
 meadow ground interposed between it and the north side of 
 Arthur Seat, extends to the N. E. extremity of the King's 
 Park, where stands on the left hand, the cairn of Nicol Muschet 
 the murderer, of which a powerfully dramatic use has been 
 made in the novel of The Heart of Mid-Lothian. 
 
 Though the situation of the Palace and Abbey, from i(s 
 lowness, is far from imposing, the scenery around is as roman- 
 tic as any which Ihe most poetical imagination could conceive 
 to exist in the vicinily of a populous city. 
 
 This Abbey was founded in the year 1128 by King David 
 the First, whose extravagant rage for building and endowing 
 religious houses, led to his being canonized as a Saint, and, 
 in an after age, to the remark made by his facetious descendant, 
 Jamesthe Sixth, that" he had been ane sairsanctto the Crown." 
 In the days of David every great undertaking was preceded 
 by some extraordinary miracle; and, accordingly, we are 
 told by monkish historians, that the following one suggested 
 to the sainted Monarch the founding of the Abbey. "While 
 hunting one day in the forest of Drumselch, which covered the 
 grounds in the vicinity of Edinburgh, he was attacked, on the 
 very spot where the Abbey stands, by a large hart, which 
 
<1F HOLYROODHOUSK, d 
 
 <w'erthrew both him and his horse, and was about to gore him, 
 •when an arm, shrouded in a dark cloud, placed within his 
 hand a cross of heavenly lustre ; at the sight of which the in- 
 furiated animal, sorely dismayed, fled into the depths of the 
 forest. The night following this adventure, the King had a 
 dream in Edinburgh Castle, which confirmed the grateful and 
 pious design he had formed of founding the Abbey. "When 
 built, it was tenanted by a colony of Canons Regular of the 
 Augustine Order, whom David brought from St. Andrews, 
 and dedicated to the above Holy Cross, which was e^ishrined 
 in silver, and deposited with due pomp upon the High Altar. 
 Such was the celestial nature of this Cross, that no one could 
 decide what were the materials of which it was composed, 
 whether they were metallic or ligneous. However, David the 
 Second, when invading England, took it with him, and both 
 he and it fell into the hands of the English at the battle of 
 Durham. In the Cathedral of Durham, it was long preserved 
 and regarded with much veneration. 
 
 This Abbey was richly endowed by the charter of founda- 
 tion*, and had other liberal grants successively conferred upon 
 
 * The following is a translation of the very beautiful Original, 
 which is preserved in the Archives of the City of Edinburgh. 
 
 " In the name of our Lord Jesus Christ, and in honour of the 
 Holy Cross, the blessed Virgin Mary, and all Saints, I DAVm, by 
 the grace of God, King of Scots, by Royal Authority, and con- 
 sent of Henry my Son, and the Bishops of my Kingdom, confirmed 
 by my Earls and Barons, attested by the Clergy, and by divine 
 instinct approved by the People, do grant, and perpetually confirm 
 to the Church of the Holy Cross at Edinburgh, the several things 
 hereafter mentioned : — That is to say, I grant to the said Church, 
 and to the Canons regularly serving God therein, in free and per- 
 petual alms, the Church of the Castle (of Edinburgh,) with the ap- 
 purtenances and rights thereof; trial by duel, tcater, and Jire ordeal, so 
 far as appertains to the Ecclesiastical dignity ; with the town of 
 Saughton and its several divisions ; and the Church and Parish of 
 St. Cuthberts, with all things thereunto belonging ; with the Church, 
 Town, and its divisions, and the ground wherein the Church is sit- 
 uated ; together with all the lands lying under the Castle ; viz 5 
 
6 PALACE AND CHAPEL-ROYAL 
 
 it by devout individuals, till at length it became the mobt opu- 
 lent religious establishment in the kingdom. Among its other 
 acquisitions were that of the priory of St. Mary's Isle, in the 
 
 from the well* which riseth or springeth near the corner of my 
 garden, by the way which leads to the Church of St. Cuthbcrt's 
 and, on the other hand, along the foot of the Castle-hill, to a rock 
 at the east side of the Castle-hill, with two Chapels belongingto the 
 said Church of St. Cuthbert's, viz. Corstorphine, with two bovatesf 
 and six acres of land, and the Chapel of Libbcrton, with two ox- 
 gangs ;t together with all the rights and tithes, as well of tlie dead 
 as of the living, in Legbernard, which Macbeth gave to the said 
 Church, and I have confirmed. Also the Church of Airth in Stir- 
 lingshire, with other lands thereunto belonging ; together with the 
 several lands by me thereunto annexed, as surveyed by my officers, 
 and others, I have given to Alwinus the Abbot, with a salt pan and 
 2G acres in the said Town of Airth ; which Church and lands I will, 
 that the said Canons of the Holy Cross freely hold and quietly pos- 
 sess for ev^er. And I hereby strictly enjoin, that no person presume 
 to disturb or molest any of the said Canons, their vassals, or servants, 
 residing on the said lands, or that any work, auxiliary or secular 
 customs, be unjustly exacted from them. 
 
 I likewise grant to the said Canons, liberty to erect a mill upon 
 the said lands, and to have and enjoy in Airth, all the following 
 rights, customs, and conveniences ; viz. in rivers, fishings, meadows, 
 and pastures, and to enjoy all things necessary, in as full and ample 
 a manner as when they were in my own possession; together with 
 the Town of Broughton, and its respective divisions; the lands of 
 Inverlcith in the neighbourhood of the harbour, with the said har- 
 bour ; half of the fishings and tithes of the several fisheries belong- 
 ing to the Town of St. Cuthbert's; the Towns of Pittindrech, 
 Hamar, and Fordam, with their several divisions ; and the hospital, 
 with a carucate§ or plough of land, and a perpetual annuity of forty 
 shillings, out of my town of Edinbiis^h, And fur supplying the 
 said Canons with ajjparel, I give to them 100 shillings, payable out 
 of my cain\\ at Terth, and from the duties that arise to me out of the 
 first merchant ships that arrive at Perth ; and if none shall happen 
 
 * Supposed to be the well under the well-house tower, commonly 
 called Wallace's tower, situated at the foot of the perpendicular rock 
 on the north side of tLe Castle, where there is still a constant spring of 
 Ijure water, even in the dryest season. 
 
 f A bovate of land is usually taken at 15 acres, or as much as an 
 ox can plougli in a year. 
 
 I Oxgang, the same as bovate. 
 
 § Carucate, or as much land as a plough could till in one year, 
 reckoned in England one hundred acres. 
 
 II The duty paid to the superior, by the tenants ; but more es- 
 pecially, as in this place, certain petty tithes paid to the cler'tv for 
 lands held off the Church. 
 
OF HOLYROODHOUSE. 
 
 neighbourhood of Kirkcudbright, conferred upon it by Fergus, 
 Lord of Galloway ; Blantyrc, in Clydesdale ; Rowadill, in the 
 I ylc of Harries, granted by M'Leod of Harries; and three 
 
 to arrive, 1 then give to the said Church, out of my revenue iu 
 Edinburgh, the sum of 48 shillings ; out of Stirling 20 shillings, 
 with a house, and one draught of a fishing net at the said place ; and 
 40 shillings out of Perth, with a house in my Town of Edinburgh, 
 free of all duties and customs whatsoever; together with a house 
 in the Town of Berwick, a draught of two nets in Spitwell, a house 
 in Renfrew, five particates,* and one draught of a net for salmon, 
 with a right to fish for herrings. And I strictly command, that no 
 person whatsoever presume to take from the said Canons, their vas- 
 sals, or servants, any toll or duty whatever. 
 
 " I also give to the said Canons, out of my Exchequer, a perpe- 
 tual annuity of ten pounds, for lighting and repairing their Church. 
 And I command my respective oflicers and foresters, in the counties 
 £)f Stirling and Clackmannan, that they permit the said Abbott and 
 Canons to take out of ray several woods and forests as much wood 
 as they shall have occasion for, towards building their Church, 
 houses, and other necessary constructions. I likewise order and 
 direct, that the vassals and servants of the said Canons shall have 
 liberty to take of my said woods and forests, whatever wood they 
 may have occasion for, without molestation. And I also grant, 
 that the swine belonging to the Master or Canons of the said Church 
 be free from Pannagef 
 
 " I also give and grant to the said Canons, one half of the tallow, 
 lard, and hides, of the beasts killed in Edinburgh, with the tithes of 
 zvhales and sea-monsters, due to me from the river Avon to Coldbrand- 
 spath, with the tithes of all my pleas and profits from the said Avon 
 to the said Coldbrandspath, and the half of my pleas and profits in 
 Argyle ; with the skins of all the rams, sheep, and lambs, belonging 
 to Linlithgow, which die naturally, and 8 Chalders of malt, 8 of 
 meal, 30 cart loads of brushwood from Libberton ; one of my mills 
 of Dean, with the tenth of my mills of Libberton and Dean, and those 
 of my new mill of Edinburgh, and Craigendsraark, as far as they 
 appertain to me ; with all that belonged to Vineth White on the 
 said rock, to be held in free and perpetual alms. 
 
 " I likewise grant to the said Canons the town of Herbergare, 
 lying betwixt the said church and my town of Edinburgh, and that 
 the burgesses thereof have the liberty of buying and selhng goods 
 and merchandize in open market, as freely and without molestation 
 and reproach as any of my own burgesses. And I strictly enjoin, 
 that no person presume to take by force any bread, ale, or other 
 vendible commodity, without the consent of the said burgesses. 
 
 " I also grant that the said Canons be free from all tolls and 
 customs in my several burghs and lands, in all things they deal in. 
 
 * Particate, a rood, or the fourth part of an acre of land. 
 f Pannage, duty on swine that fed in the King's Woods, 
 
8 PALACl-: AM) CHAPEL-llOVAL 
 
 odicr.s in the Ilebridian Islands, namelj', Criisay, Oronsay, 
 and Colunsay ; the church of Melgynch in the diocese of Dun- 
 keld ; the church of Dalgarnock in Nithsdale ; and the church 
 and vicarage of Kircudbright. At the period of the Reforma- 
 tion, the following was the amount of its annual revenue ; 442 
 bolls of wheat, 640 bolls of bear, (a coarse species of barley,) 
 oOO bolls of oats ; 500 capons ; 2 dozen of hens ; 2 dozen of 
 salmon ; 12 loads of salt ; besides a number of swine, and about 
 ^250 sterling in money. 
 
 In virtue of the Charter of Foundation, the Canons, as tem- 
 poral Lords, in the person of their Abbot, exercised ample 
 baronial jurisdiction over the extensive territory, in the 
 vicinity of Edinburgh, which had been conferred upon them. 
 They erected a burgh of barony, which consisted of that long 
 street, extending from the front of the Abbey, westward to the 
 Nether Bow of Edinburgh ; which from them was called, and 
 still retains the name of the Canongate. They also erected 
 the mills upon the AVaier of Leith, which still bear their 
 original name of Canonmills. In process of time the town of 
 NorthLeith was built upon part of the domains of the Abbey. 
 At the Reformation, the whole possessions of the Abbey were 
 
 And I strictly forbid all persons from taking a poind, or making a 
 seizure in or upon the said lands of" Holy Cross, unless the Abbot 
 refuse to do justice to the person injured. I will likewise, that 
 the said Canons lujld all the aforesaid things as fully as I enjoy my 
 own lands. And I grant, that the said Abbot shall have his Court 
 in as full, free, and honourable a manner as the Bishop of St. 
 Andrews, Abbot of Dunfermline, and Abbot of Kelso enjoy 
 theirs. 
 
 Attested by these witnesses, — Robert Bishop of St. Andrews; 
 John Bishop of Glasgow. Henry, my son. William, my nephew, 
 jRdward, the Chancellor. Herbert, the Treasurer. Gillemichell, 
 Karl. Gospatrick, brother of Delphin. Robert Montague. 
 Hobert de Burneville. Peter dc Bruce. Norman, the SlierifF. 
 Ogu, Leising. Gillise. William de Graiiam. Turstan de Creic- 
 tune. Blemo, the Archdeacon. Alfric, the Chaplain. And WaU 
 cran, the Chaplain." 
 
OP HOLVROOnnOUSE. 
 
 Secularized, and erected into a temporal lordship, in favour of 
 its commendator John Bothwell, son to the Bishop of Orkney, 
 who was created Baron of Holyroodhouse, a title which be- 
 came extinct with him. At an after period, the superiority of 
 the Canongate with that of its dependances, viz. : — the town 
 of North Leith, part of Broughton, and part of the village of 
 Pleasance, (so called from a chapel which stood there, being 
 dedicated to our Lady of Placentia,) became vested in the per- 
 son of the Earl of Roxburgh ; from whom they were purchased 
 by the Magistrates and Town Council of Edinburgh in 1636, 
 for the sum of 42100 merks Scots. Thus, the ancient jurisdic- 
 tion possessed by the Canons of Holyroodhouse over their 
 lands around Edinburgh, so far as baronial powers in general 
 have not been abolished by statutes, exists entire to this day 
 in the Magistrates and Council of that city ; and is exercised 
 for them by a Baron Bailie, and two Resident Bailies of the 
 Canongate, whom they appoint annually. 
 
 In 1160, Fergus Lord of Galloway, who had been a muni- 
 ficent donor to the Abbey, and afterwards became one of its 
 Monks, died within its walls, and was solemnly interred near 
 the High Altar. 
 
 In 1177, a National Council was held within this Abbey, 
 upon the arrival of the Pope's legate, to take cognizance of a 
 claim made by the Church of England to the submission of 
 the Scotch Clergy, founded upon the terms of a treaty ex- 
 torted by the King of England from William the Lion, whom 
 he held a prisoner, as the price of his liberty. The Council 
 rejected the interference of the Pope, and asserted the perfect 
 independence of the National Church. 
 
 In 1206, John Bishop of Candida Casa^ or Whithorn, in 
 Galloway, who had long submitted to its monastic austeries, 
 died here ; as did also the famous John of Gaunt, Duke of Lan- 
 caster, in 1381, 
 
10 PAL.U'E A\D CHAPEL ROYAL 
 
 The fourtoonlli Parliamoiil of Robert Bruce, was held with- 
 in the Abbey in 132G-7 ; and, in the same place, a parliament 
 was held by Edward Baliol in 13334. 
 
 Robert the Second occasioiily resided within the Abbey, as 
 did James the First, whose consort was delivered in it of male 
 twins, ono of whom was his successor, James the Second. 
 That Prince was also crowned when a child, married to Mary 
 of Gueldres, and buried (in 14G0) within this Abbey, where he 
 first saw the light. 
 
 In 14G9, James the Third was married within the Abbey 
 Church to Margaret, daughter of the King of Norway, 
 Sweden, and Denmark; and there also, in 1503, the marriage 
 of James the Fourth and Margaret of England was cele- 
 brated — an event which led to the union of the two Crowns, 
 James the Sixth having, in IG03 succeeded to that of Eng- 
 land, as the lineal descendant of Margaret, (the daughter of 
 Henry the Seventh), who was his great grandmother. 
 
 In 1565, Queen Mary and Henry, Lord Darnley, were 
 married in the Abbey Church ; and there, in 1590, the Queen 
 of James the Sixth was solemnly crowned. The coronation 
 of Charles the first, as King of Scotland, which was conducted 
 with extraordinary pomp, also took place there in 1633. 
 
 The ecclesiastical annals of the Abbey of Holyroodhouse 
 are exceedingly scant)-. From the time of James the Sixth 
 down to that of James the Seventh, it was occupied as a 
 parish church by the inhabitants of the Canongate, who seem 
 to have used the ground eastward of it, comprehended within 
 St. Anne's gardens, as a burial ground ; while during the same 
 period and subsequent to it, some of the more wealthy in- 
 habitants and several distinguished individuals were interred 
 within the walls of the Abbey itself, where reposed the ashes 
 of Princes whose brows had been graced with the royal diadem 
 of Scotland. For twenty-years, during the reigns of' James 
 
OP IIOLYROODIIOUSE. 11 
 
 the Sixth, and his ill-starrea son Charles, ilie English Liturgy 
 was read within the Chin'ch ; bnt the incurable Iiorror whicli 
 the nation had and still have of Episcopalian forms, led to a 
 sudden discontinuance of the practice. In 1659, the Marquis 
 of Hamilton, who was at Holyroodhouse, in the character of 
 Royal Commissioner, empowered to negociate with the Cove- 
 nanters, intended to have the Liturgy read as u^ual in the 
 Church, in his own presence; but he had an intimation sent 
 him from the people, whose zeal had been kindled to excess 
 by their preachers, that if he made the attempt the officiating 
 clergyman would assuredly be murdered. Such was the 
 temper of the nation at the time, that the Marquis deemed 
 it prudent to abandon his intention. 
 
 Prevjouslj' to this, viz. in 1633, Edinburgh bad been 
 f reeled into a Bishopric by Charles the First ; on whicTi occa- 
 sion, he, by Charter, Annexed to the new See the Church of 
 Holyroodhouse; and appointed its minister one of the preben- 
 daries of St. Giles. By the sanie deed he granted to the 
 Bishop of Edinburgh and his successors, for the upholding of 
 their dignity, the houses, precincts, aad yards of Holyrood- 
 house; and also the superiorities, feu-duties, and rents, then 
 in the right of the Crown, of the remote baronies and parishes 
 which once belonged to the Abbey. This Charter was after- 
 wards ratified by Charles the Second. 
 
 James the Seventh, who, when Duke of York, had long re- 
 sided in the Palace, conceived the design of converting the 
 Church into a Chapel-Uoyal, for the accommodation of the 
 Royal Household, and providing it with a throne for the So- 
 vereign, and stalls for the knights companions of the most 
 ancient and noble Order of the Thistle ; with which design, 
 he, in 1687, issued a mandate to the Magistrates of EdinburgJi, 
 directing them to deliver up the keys of the Church to the 
 Earl of Perth, Lord Chancellor. The mandate was complied 
 
 B 
 
12 PALAn-- AM) ( IIAFELROYAL 
 
 with ; and the improvements contemplated by tho Monarcu 
 were executed in a style of becoming splendour. Not only 
 Tvere a Throne and Stalls erected, but the Church (now a 
 Chapel- Royal) was provided with a mosaic floor of marblo, 
 and a fine organ, and ornamented with armorial devices and 
 Saxon inscriptions of almost unequalled beauty. High mass 
 was performed within it, which excessively exasperated the 
 populace, who, availing themselves of the Revolution which 
 broke out soon afterwards, forced their way into the Chapel,^ 
 after overpowering a military guard, and tore down its costly 
 ornaments, despoiled parts of the floor of its marble, and, 
 setting fire to its combustible materials, left nothing but its 
 bare walls; nay more, with a fury altogether demoniacal, 
 and a disrespect to their native Princes, which is no part of 
 the national character, they tore open the Coflins which con- 
 tained the mortal remains of David the Second ; James the 
 Second ; Prince Arthur, third son of James the Fourth ; 
 James the Fifth, his first Queen, Magdalene of France, and 
 the duke of Albany, his second son; also of King Henry, 
 (Lord Darnly.) They had even the unparalleled baseness to 
 sell the lead of which the Coflins were made, leaving the 
 bodies, or rather the bones which once belonged to them, ex- 
 posed to profane view. The public authorities, however, 
 caused the bones to be collected and inhumed ; and they are 
 now deposited in the royal vault, which is secured by strong 
 doors, the keys of which are kept by the Barons of Exchequer. 
 In Arnot's* time, the head of Queen Magdalene and the skull 
 of Darnley had been stolen ; but the thigh bone of the latter 
 remained, a proof of the vastness of his stature. 
 
 No use has been made of the Abbey since the Revolution, 
 excepting as a aemetry for the illustrious dead. The build - 
 
 * See Arnot's History of Edinburgh 
 
OF HOLYROODHOUSE. 13 
 
 ing, however, still continues a Chapel-Royal ; and is provided 
 with four Deans, who are ministers of the Established Church. 
 
 The events we have narrated, refer chiefly to the endow- 
 ments of the Abbey, as a religious establishment, and the 
 fluctuations its fortunes underwent in consequence of changes 
 in the ecclesiastical polity of the Kingdom. We have yet 
 to notice some events connected with its history, which affect- 
 ed its form and appearance as a fabric. But first we may 
 observe, that of the Abbey, as it once stood in the pride of its 
 overflowing wealth, — strong in the direct support of th« 
 State, and the superstitious veneration of the people — with its 
 cloisters, dormitory, refectory, and other comfortable appur- 
 tenances, only the nave, which was the western division o£ 
 the conventual Church, seems to have survived the period of 
 the Earl of Hertford's hostile irruption in 1544, of which we 
 shall speak hereafter, it is that part which, as we have al- 
 ready mentioned, was repaired bj^ James the Seventh, and 
 converted by him into a Chapel-Royal, and still exists as 
 such. 
 
 The Abbey, it is probable, at one time covered most of the 
 ground upon which the adjoining Royal Palace stands, and of 
 that which is now occupied as a roj'al garden, as well as part 
 of the open ground to the eastward denominated St. Anne*« 
 gardens.* It was approached from the west, under a portico 
 
 * An attentive observer, who surveys the ground to the east of the 
 Chapel, will easily perceive the foundations, indicated by green 
 mounds, of some parts of the original building, destroyed as above. 
 The ground thereabouts seems to have been used at a remote period 
 as a cementry ; for, at every occasional excavation, vast quantities of 
 bones are dug up. Some workmen about two years since, in clear- 
 ing out what appeared to be the overwhelmed remains of a cloister, 
 found a skull, which had been used by the religious tenant of the 
 little cell as, at once, the pedestal of a crucifix, and useful for the 
 direction of his ghostly studies. That these were its purposes was 
 proved by a hole in the apex of the cranium, and the appropriate 
 legend, in old faded characters, over the brow,—** MEMENTO MORI." 
 
J4 PALACE AND CHAPEL-UOYAL 
 
 of pointed arches, surmounted by turrets, which stretche4 
 across the foot of the Canongate, and was taken down so 
 lately as 175.5. The Conventual Church, (of which the 
 present Chapel-Royal is a portion) was upon the north side 
 of the Abbey, and extended as far eastward into St. Anne's 
 gardens as the length of that Chapel. It was built in 
 the form of a cross, the transept, (of which there are 
 still some vestiges,) forming its north and south branches. 
 In the line of the transept, and centre of the Church, was a 
 square lantern lower, resting upon four large ground pillars, 
 and having lofty connecting arches. The part eastward of 
 this tower formed the Choir and Lady-Chapel. When what 
 remains of this, the Conventual Church, stood entire, the 
 centre of the nave and its side aisles, seem to have com- 
 municated with the transept, the former by a lofty arch, in- 
 to which the present east window has been built; and the 
 s|de aisles by lancet pointed arohcs, in which, although 
 now built up, beautiful specimens of screen work may yet 
 be obserred, especially on that which terminates the north 
 aisle. The centre and side aisles of the nave were separ- 
 ated by a row of clustered piers, nine on either side, 
 supporting eight equilateral pointed arches; above this row 
 was another of smaller equilateral pointed arches, double in 
 number, and subdivided by lancet pointed arches, springing 
 from small clustered piers. This formed the front of a gal- 
 
 \Ve were informed, that the poor man who found this ghastly but 
 curious memorial, took it up, and, wipinn- off the mould, made an 
 attempt to deeijiher the inscription, Avhile the more ignorant of his 
 fellows flocked around him, to hear what he could make out. He 
 found great difficulty in decipliering it; but at last read out to his 
 
 patient audience, " raair men the morn j" which struck 
 
 the whole circle, and more especially the Irish part of it, v\ itli sur- 
 prise and indignation, as, before they took time to reflect, the who^e 
 business apjiearcd to them as an aimouncement of their mas ter's 
 intention of sending an additional supply of labourers next day, in 
 order to get the work more speedily finished. The skull is now in 
 the pos:>ebsion of Sir Tatiick Walker Walh in J^diiihurgh. 
 
OF HOLYROODHOUSE. 1.5 
 
 lpt*y over the side aisles ; on ibe top of which was a row of 
 still smaller arches, open towards the inside of the Church, form- 
 ing a private communication with either end of the building in 
 the thickness of the walls. The roof was vaulted with groins 
 and intersecting stone ribs, the same as those of many other 
 ancient churches and chapels in the Gothic style. On the exteri- 
 or of the south side was a range of flying buttresses, and on that 
 of the north side one of upright buttresses, with canopied niches 
 and pinnacles. Most of these buttresses, as well as the under 
 ranges of windows are still entire, but the upper windows and 
 gallery, and the pillars and arches of the north side of the in- 
 terior have been destrayed by one in the catalogue of calami- 
 ties which have befallen the building, and which we now 
 proceed to detail. 
 
 In 1332, the army of Edward the Third despoiled the 
 Abbey of its shrines and gold and silver vessels. It is re- 
 markable that the English soldiery, though no doubt fully 
 imbued with the superstition of the age, seem to have had no 
 scruple, but, on the contrary, were ever eager to plunder and 
 even destroy the religious buildings of Scotland, sacrilegious as 
 the action was in the eye of the CJiurch. In 1385, the Abbey 
 was burnt to the ground by the forces of Richard the Second. 
 By whom it was rebuilt does not appear; but by Abbot 
 Crawford, who was Lord High Treasurer of the Kingdom, 
 ard died in 1483, it was greatly embellished, and provided 
 with the flying buttresses of which we have spoken. In April 
 1544, the Earl of Hertford invaded Scotland, when the 
 Abbey and the adjoining Palace were nearly reduced to ashes 
 by his soldier}'. The choir and transept of the Church and 
 lantern tower were utterly destroyed, and nothing but the 
 nave (now the Chapel-Royal) left standing. A curious 
 brazen font, in which the royal infants were usually baptised^ 
 was carried off by Sir Richard Lea, the Captain of the Eng- 
 
ir, rM.ACK AM) ( MAPKl. ROYAL 
 
 lish pioneers, wlio presented it to the Chiirch of St. Albans, 
 after causing to be engraved upon it a vain-glorious memori- 
 al in barbarous Latin, which, being translated, runs thus : — 
 *' When Leith, a town of good account in Scotland, and 
 Edinburgh, the principal city of that nation, were on fire, 
 Sir Uichard Lea, knight, saved me out of the flames, and 
 l>rought me into England. In gratitude to him for his kind- 
 ness, I, who hitherlo served only at the baptism of the children 
 of kings, do now most willingly ofTer the same service even 
 to the meanest of the English nation. Lea, the Conqueror^ 
 hckth so commanded. Adieu, A. D. 1543, in the 36th year 
 of King Henry VIH."* 
 
 After his victory of Pinkie, in L547, the protector, Somerset, 
 inflamed with hatred of Catholicism, despatched two of his 
 generals to harass the monks, and pillage the Abbey ; but the 
 former bad fled with their valuables, and the warlike 
 apostles of the new Faith had to content themselves with 
 stripping the roofs of the Church and Palace of their lead, 
 taking down the bells, and committing a few other amiable 
 rulrages. 
 
 On 18th June, 1.567, only two days after Queen Mary's first 
 iin>prisonment, the Earl of Glencairn was deputed by the then 
 governing faction to lay waste this unfortunate Abbey, by 
 destroying its altcirs, pictures, and statues, which, in the 
 language of the day, was called purging it of the monument* 
 of idolatry. This his Lordship did very effectually. 
 
 ' Sir Walter Scott, in his Border Antiquities, observes upjiY 
 this transaction, " No doubt, tliis mighty hero, who had achieved 
 M) glorious an enterprise as that of taking away a brass font in the 
 midst of the tumult occasioned by a conflagration, hoped to inform 
 posterity of his renown, by the memorial engraven upon the trophy 
 wan by his exploits ; but, alas ! ambition knows not its own destiny ; 
 the victors's spoil became in its turn the spoil of rebellious regicides ; 
 tor during the civil wars that raged under the unfortunate Charles, 
 «his sacred emblem of conquest was taken down and sold for its, 
 MclijUt, and ignobly destroyed. '' 
 
OF HOLYROODHOLSK. 17 
 
 The Church remained in a rather desolate ilato, though ueeU 
 parochially, until 1633, in the reign of Charles the First, when, 
 from an inscription above the west door, it appears to have im- 
 dergone some important repairs. It was then, most probably, 
 that the large east window, which, evidently is comparatively 
 modern, was constructed. The mullions and tracery of this 
 window were loosened by a great storm, and fell down in 
 1795 ; but were replaced in 1816. 
 
 We have already noticed the great improvements effected 
 upon this Church by James the Seventh, when he converted, 
 it into a Chapel- Royal; and the subsequent havoc committed 
 in it by the rabble at the period of the Revolution. 
 
 It was scarcely to be expected that, jealous as the new royal 
 dynasty were, immediately after their accession, of the here- 
 ditary attachment of the Scotch to the exiled family, they 
 would cherish much regard for a building, which was an inter- 
 esting vestige of the departed greatness aud magnificence of the 
 Stuarts. However, upon the accession of his 1 ate Majesty, that 
 jealousy subsided ; and was succeeded by more magnanimous 
 and generous feelings. In 1758, the state of the Chapel Royal 
 attracted the attention and excited the regrets of the Barons of 
 Exchequer, who contracted with a tradesmen to have it newly 
 roofed ; but the stupidity and avarice of this tradesman hasten- 
 ed the destruction of that which the patriotism of the Barons 
 had designed to preserve. Instead of providing it with a slate 
 roof, which was as much as the walls could sustain^ he put upon 
 it one of flagstones; and, as might have been foreseen, the 
 enormous load fell in, bringing away with it the roof and upper 
 stone gallery. This happened in the winter of 1768. 
 
 From that time the Chapel remained a dreary, roofless, 
 weather-beaten ruin — its walls, " furred o'er with hoary damps 
 and mouldering slime," standing as a melancholy memento of 
 the perishable nature of every thing human. But theanxiety, 
 
18 PALACE AND CHAPEL ROYAL 
 
 of Ibe Barons of Exohcquer for the preservation of this build- 
 ing was again awakened in 1810, when they ordered certain 
 repairs to be exccnt-ed, calculated efTectually to prevent, for a 
 a time, its farther delapidation. 
 
 The auspicious visit of his present Majesty to Scotland in 
 )S22, brought the venerable edifice under his gracious notice. 
 lie could not but be solenanly atTected by its decayed and ne- 
 glected appearance, as he reflected on what it had been, — that 
 within its walls several of his r6yal progenitors had been 
 crov.-ned, and the nuptials of others of tiiem celebrated, and 
 that there, after they had " shudlcd off their mortal coil," 
 not a few of them had been consigned to the dust. Neither 
 could he but feel, that he could not make a more grateful return 
 to his Scottish subjects for their atfectionate reception of him, 
 than by restoring to their original grandeur, both the Palace 
 and the Chapel-Royal, — objects hallowed to the nation by the 
 recollections connected with them. Acting from the impulse of 
 his own princely feelings, his Majesty directed the complete 
 renovation of both those buildings ; to accomplish which 
 £4000 yearly, for a period of six years, out of the Crown Re- 
 venue for Scotland, have been appropriated. The improve- 
 ment of the palace has been far proceeded in, and when com- 
 pleted, that of the Chapel-royal is expected to commence. 
 
 Of the many tombs within the Chapel-royal, we deem it 
 proper to notice only the few which are at all remarkable. 
 
 In the south-east corner is the Royal Vault, unornamented, 
 and strongly secured. It contains the remains of David the 
 Second ; James the Second ; Prince Arthur, the third and in- 
 fant son of James the Fourth ; James the Fifth ; Magdalene of 
 France, his first Queen ; Arthur, Duke of Albany, his second 
 and infant son ; Henry, (Lord Darnley) the husband of Queen 
 Mary ; and Jane, Countess of Argyll, natural daughter of James 
 the Fifth, and half-sister of Queen Mary, with whom she was 
 
OF HOLYROODHOUSE. li> 
 
 supping along with Rizzio on the night that wretched man 
 was dragged, shrieking, from her Majesty's presence, and, in 
 despite of her prayers and tears, savagely butchered.' 
 
 In that Vault also, were deposited the remains of the Duches« 
 4e Graraipont, a scion of the Bourbon family, and in the 
 
 • The following interesting account of the Royal Sepulchre, is 
 to be found in the manuscript notes of a search, preserved in the 
 Advocate's Library : — " Upon yexxiv of January' MDCLXXXIIT, 
 by procurement of ye Bischop of Dumblayne, 1 went into ane vault 
 in ye south-east corner of ye Abbey church of Halyrudehouse, and 
 yr. were present, ye Lord Strathnaver and E. Forfare, Mr Robert 
 Scott, minister of ye Abbey, ye Bishop of Dumblayn and some 
 uthers. Wee viewed ye body of King James ye Fift of Scotland. 
 It lyeth within ane wooden coffin, and is coveret wyth ane lead 
 coffin. There seemed to be haire upon ye head still. Ye body 
 was two lengths of my staf, with two inches more, that is twae inches 
 and mare above twae Scots elnes j for I measured ye staf with ane 
 clnwand efterward. 
 
 " Ye body was coloured black with ye balsom that preserved it, 
 which was lyke melted pitch. Ye Earl of Forfare tooke the mea- 
 sure with his staf lykewayes. Yair was plates of lead, in several 
 long pieces, louse upon and about ye coffin, which carried y« fol- 
 lowing inscription, as I took it from before ye bishop and noble- 
 men in ye isle of ye church : — 
 
 *' ILLVSTRIS SCOTORVM, REX JACOBVS EJVS NOMINIS V. ETATIS 
 
 SU^ ANNO XXXI : REGNI VERO XXX : MORTEM OBIIT IN 
 
 PALACIO DE FALKLAND 14< DECEMBRIS. ANNO D — NI MDXLII, 
 
 CVJVS CORPVS HIC TRADITVM EST SEPVLTVRE. 
 
 ** Next ye south wall, in a smaller arch, lay a shorter coffin with ya 
 teeth in ye skull. 
 
 " To ye little coffin in ye narrow arch, seemeth to belong yis 
 inscription made out of long pieces of lead in ye Saxon character ;— . 
 
 IPiimo^'Sem'ta JaegCna ^toti^» ^ptin^a Ja(ol&( W 
 
 Mt^ii* A. D. MDXXXVII OBIIT. 
 
 " Yair was ane piece of a lead crown, upon ye syde of whiJk I 
 saw two floor de leuces gilded; and upon ye north syde of ye coffin 
 lay two children, none of the coffins a full elne long, and one of them 
 lying within ane wod chest, ye other only ye lead coffin. 
 
 " Upon ye south syde, next the King's body, lay an grete coffin 
 of lead, with ye body in it. Ye muscles of ye thigh seemed to be 
 entire ; ye body not so long as King James ye Fyfth, and ye bal- 
 sam stagnating in sum quantity at ye foote of ye coffin ; yair ap- 
 peared no inscription upon ye coffin. 
 
 "And at ye eaist side of the vaults which was at ye feet of ye other 
 C 
 
20 PALACE AND CH APEL-UOT AT, 
 
 »nit« of ILm Count d'Arlois, now King of France, when ho, 
 during the Revolutionary crisis, had apartments assigned bim 
 in Holyroodhouse. She died in March 1803, aged thirty-four 
 years. In the autumn of 1825, a Corvette belonging to the 
 French Royal Navy, was despatched to the Frith of Forth 
 io receive on board her remahis, and convey them to 
 France. They were accordingly removed from the vault, 
 and conducted, with due pomp and solemnity, by a procession 
 of gentlemen of distinction, including the Lord Provost of 
 Edinburgh, to Newhaven, where they were put on board the 
 Corvette. The removal, and ceremonials attending it, were di- 
 rected by and conducted at the expense of the Duke of Hamil- 
 ton, Hereditary keeper (jf the Palace, with whom the illastriou« 
 deceased was remotely connected. The Lord Provost after- 
 wards received a letter from the Duke de Grammont, the widow- 
 er of the deceased, expressive of the grateful sense he enter- 
 tained of the honours paid to the remains of his consort, by 
 the authorities of the Scottish capital. 
 
 In the middle of the passage leadingfromadoor which opens 
 from the N.E. corner of the quadrangle of the Palace, is a flat 
 square stone, having upon it a shield with faint traces of Saxon 
 characters. This, very absurdly we think, is said to mark the 
 tomb of Rizzio. His murderers despised, as well as hated 
 him too much, to have assigned so dignified a spot for his 
 sepulture. 
 
 Within the vestry, which is in the N. W. and only remain- 
 ing tower of the Church, is a superb monument, of Parian 
 marble, to the memory of Lord Belhaven, Chamberlain to 
 
 coffins, lay a coffin with ye skull sawen in two, and ane inscription 
 in small letters, gilded upon a square of ye lead coffin, making it to 
 beyebodye of Dame Jane Stewart, Countesse of Argyle, MDLXXXV, 
 or yairby, for I do not well remember ye ycare. Ye largest coffin, 
 1 suUi suppose to be yat of Lord Darnlcys, and ye short coffin, 
 QuGcne Magdalene's.'' 
 
OF HOLtROODHOUSK. fi 
 
 King Charles <he First. On an altaf tomb is tht recumbent 
 statue of his Lordship, arrayed in his robes of State, the right 
 arm rested upon a cushion, and the left grasping the pommel 
 of his sword. Within the arched recess, which is supported 
 by Corinthian pillars, appe? rj a Latin inscription/ 
 
 Near the remaining east pier of the north side, is the tomb- 
 stone of James Douglas, Lord Carlisle and Torthorwald, 
 (who was killed in an affray on the streets of Edinburgh in 
 1608), and of Agnes Caryle, his spouse, who was the heir^aw 
 of Torthorwald. t 
 
 * The following is a translation of it, " Here are interred the 
 remains of Robert, Lord Viscount Belhaven, Baron of Spot, &c. 
 Counsellor to King Charles, and most intimately in favour with 
 him, because formerly he had been most dear to Henry Prince of 
 Wales, and Master of his horse. But he being dead, and Charles 
 his brother now reigning, he was made Chamberlain to the king's 
 household, and entertained with a singular degree of favour, and 
 advanced to great honours and wealth. In bis youth he enjoyed 
 the sweet society of Nicholas Murray, daughter to the Baron of 
 Abercairney, his only wife; who lived with him not above 18 
 months, and died in child-bed with her child. When grievous old 
 age came upon him, (as weary of bad times and customs), withdraw- 
 ing himself from the noise of the court, he returned to his country. 
 He nominated Sir Archibald and Sir Robert Douglass, baronetg, 
 sons to his eldest brother, to be his heirs, dividing equally amongst 
 them all his lands and goods, except some legacies ; and they erect- 
 ed this monument to his memory as a token of their gratitude, 
 
 " Nature supplied in him by sagacity, what his mind wanted of 
 education. He was inferior to none in a good capacity and candour. 
 He would soon be angry, but was as soon calmed. This is one 
 thing he had in his life, which scarcely could be alike acceptable td 
 all; for loyalty towards his prince, love to his country, kindness 
 to his relations, and charity to the poor, he was singular. In pro- 
 sperity he was meek and moderate ; in adversity his constancy and 
 magnanimity prevailed to his very end. He died at Edmburgh 
 the 12th day of January, from the incarnation of the Messiah 
 1639, and of his age 66, being the third year above his great cli- 
 macteric." 
 
 f The following inscription appears upon it : — " Heir lyis ye 
 nobil and poton Lord, James Dovglass, Lord of Cairlell, and Tor- 
 thorall, vha marrid Daintie Eliezabeth Cairlell, air and heritrir 
 yairof ; vha vas slaine in Edinburghe ye xiiii day of Ivly, in ye 
 r.eier of God 1608. vas slain in 48 ze. L. I. D. E. C." 
 
32 PALACE AND CHAPEL-ROYAL 
 
 Farther eastward is a monument to the memory of Or 
 Wishart, the good Bishop of Edinburgh, who ended a truly 
 evangelical life in 1671. The Latin inscription upon it, (which 
 we do not choose to quote) is in as bad taste and as hyperbo- 
 lical as his own manners were pure and simple. In it he is 
 designated " Doctor Sophocardius" the latter word, of Greek 
 derivation, signifying Wise-heart ; a wretched pun upon his 
 name. 
 
 On the east side of that monument is the cenotaph of 
 George, nineteenth Earl of Sutherland.' Here also are de- 
 posited the remains of William, the last Earl of Sutherland, 
 who died at Bath in 1766, after he had completed his thirty 
 £rst year, and of his Countess Mary, who pre-deeeased hira 
 only sixteen days, in the twenty- sixth year of her age. They 
 were the parents of the present Countess of Sutherland (premier 
 peeress of Scotland), in her own right, and Marchioness of 
 Stafford. 
 
 * " To the memory of the most illustrious Lord George Earl of 
 Sutherland, Lord Strathnaver, &c. heritable Sheriff of said lands, 
 and lord of the regality thereof; one of tlie Keepers of the Great 
 Seal, under the most renowned Prince King William, one of the 
 Lords of Privy Council, and the 19th Earl descended in a right 
 line from Allan, Thane of Sutherland, whom Macbeth, in the 
 rage of his usurping tyranny, about the year of Christ 1057 made 
 away with, for endeavouring to restore the Kingdom to Malcom IIL 
 lawful heir to the Crown. His mournful widow Jean Wbmyss, 
 eldest daughter to David Earl of Wemyss, erected this monument 
 of everlasting fame. 
 
 " To the defunct Earl she brought forth John, now Earl of 
 Sutherland, and Anne, Viscountess of Arbuthnot. And to her 
 former husband, Archibald, Earl of Angus, eldest son to the 
 Marquis of Douglas, she brought forth Archibald, Earl of Forfar, 
 and Margaret, given in marriage to the Viscount of Kingstoun. 
 Five other children of the said Lady Dowager died in their 
 nonage. The Earl himself was born in his own Castle of Dor- 
 noch, 2d November 1633, and died at Edinburgh, 4th March 1703." 
 
DP HOLYROODHOUSE. 23 
 
 The exact origin of ihe Palace is involved in complefe 
 obscurily. It has to be observed, Ihat the favourite residences 
 of the Scottish kings were, for a long period, situated north 
 of the Frith of Forth. The cradle of the monarchy may ha 
 supposed to have been Dunslaffnage in Lorn. By suc- 
 cessive conquests froni the Picts, who were undoubtedly 
 an aboriginal Celtic nation, the Caledonians of the Romans, 
 the boundaries of it were rapidly extended both towards the 
 north, east, and south, till they comprehended the whole of 
 Scotland. This extension was first towards the north east ; 
 and it was not until a much later period, that the territory 
 south of the Forlh, which had been alternately subject to the 
 Picts and the Anglo-Saxons of Northumberland, was finally 
 wrested from the latter by the Scots, and incorporated with 
 their monarchy. While, therefore, the Scottish Kings had at 
 very early periods their Palaces at Inverlochy, Invern^ssj 
 Dunkeld, Scone, and, in the reign of Malcolm Canmore, at 
 Dunfermline, which is near to the northern shore of the Frith 
 of Forth, we ha%'e scarcely a memorial of a royai palace on 
 the south side of that estuary, till some time after the Stuart 
 Family, upon the demise of Robert Bruce, had mounted the 
 throne. 
 
 Mid-Lothian, down till the time of David the First, and even 
 afterwards, seems to have been one immense forest, which 
 was visited by different king5, only that they might enjoy the 
 pastime of hunting ; and, for their accommodation, they had 
 a fortalice erected at Royston upon the south shore of the 
 Forth, below Edinburgh, (the massive ruins of which are still 
 to be seen) which, in modern phrasC; might be called a huntHig 
 
fl PALACE IND CHAPF.L nOYAL 
 
 lodge. For a more permanent residence, no doubt, they bad 
 the CasUe of Edinburgh, which the best informed historians 
 suppose to have been originally constructed by Edwin, the 
 Saxon Monarch, who had pushed his conquests northward to 
 the shores of the Forth, ^and hence they deduce the name of 
 the City) ; and, indeed, after Ediubui'gh had become the 
 capital of the Kingdom, notwithstanding the erection of the 
 Palace of Ilolyroodhouse, its Castle continued a royal re- 
 sidence, even so late as the reign of Queen Mary, who waa 
 delivered of her son James the Sixth, in one of its rooms. 
 
 Though we read in ancient chronicles of Princes being born, 
 and royal marriages solemnized at Holyroodhouse, we are 
 not thence absolutely to infer that there then existed a 
 palace there^ Monasteries, at least well endowed ones, were 
 invariably provided with apartments for the accommodation of 
 visitors of every degree ; and the Abbey of Holyroodhouse 
 having been founded and richly endowed by a King of 
 Scotland, we may suppose that the royal family would at 
 all times have been welcome guests within its sacred walls* 
 It was not the only religious house in which our 
 Kings, before the many stately palaces they latterly pos- 
 sessed were built, occasionally lodged; for it was in the 
 Monastery of the Blackfriars at Perth that James the First and 
 Lis Court resided, when he was barbarously murdered. 
 
 The first express mention we have of a palace at Holyrood- 
 house is in the account given by Young, the herald, of the 
 marriage within the Abbey of James the Fourth to Margaret of 
 England, in 1503. He states, that " after all reverences doon 
 at the Church, in order as before, the King transported him- 
 self to the Pallais, through the clostre, holdynge allwaye* 
 the Quene by the body, and hys hed bare, tyll he had 
 brought her within her Chammer." After all, however, the 
 name of Pallais may have, at that time, been loosely applied 
 
OF HOLTROODHOrSE. 25 
 
 to a part of the Abbey which was allotted by the Caucus 
 for the residence of royalty. 
 
 However, this much is certain, that James the Fifth, in 1525, 
 built a palace at Holyroodhouse, containing three great towers j 
 which building still exists, and now forms the north-west part 
 of the modern palace. At the same time, he inclosed, for a 
 park, the whole of that romantic and mountainous region in 
 its neighbourhood, including Arthur Seat and Salisbury Crags, 
 with a stone wall, about three miles in circumference.* 
 
 It is probable, however, that James, in building this palace, 
 only completed one which it appears had been begun, during 
 bis minority, by the Duke of Albany, Governor of the King- 
 dom, who, we are told in the diary of Marjoribanks, a citizen 
 of Edinburgh, built part of a palace here. The same worthy 
 Citizen mentions another fact which, of itself, may originate a 
 train of doubts and conjectures, namely, that the same Gover- 
 nor, in 1516, confined the Earl of Home in the " auld tower 
 of Halter udhouSf''^ before he consigned him to the block ; 
 which tower, for aught we can know, may have been either 
 a part of, or distinct from the Abbey. 
 
 As we stated in our account of the Abbey, both Palace and 
 Abbey were burnt down during the minority of Mary. The 
 former was soon afterwards repaired and greatly enlarged ; 
 but whether the enlargement was caused by new erections, 
 
 * Tlie whole of this park, as well as the Palace and Abbey and 
 their immediate precincts, is a sanctuary for debtors, and also, (as 
 has been lately decided) for their effects against the execution of 
 civil process. This privilege rests upon consuetude and not upon 
 written law ; and the principle on which it is maintained, is respect 
 to the presence of the Monarch, who is supposed, by a fiction of 
 law, to be actually inhabiting the Palace at all times. The Abbey, 
 formerly, had its girth or sanctuary for criminals, like other religi- 
 ous houses; but it may well be doubted whether it extended be- 
 yond its own immediate precincts. 
 
26 PALAt'F. AND CHAPfcL ROYAL 
 
 appears very questionable. The distracted state of the ki«|j- 
 dom at that time, and the difficulties Government had to coq^ 
 <cnd with, scarcely admitted of much attention being bestowed 
 upon architectural improvements; and, as the Reformation was 
 achieved shortly after, we rather incline to the opinion, thai 
 the exterior buildings of the Abbey must have been simply 
 incorporated with the Palace. This seems the more probable 
 from the then irregular form of the Palace, and from a part of 
 it, thus enlarged, having actually stood upon ground which 
 once must have been occupied by the cloisters. 
 
 The Palace, when Mary, upon her return from France, 
 took possession of it, contained no fewer than live courts. 
 The first was in front of the building, and was bounded on the 
 north by the King's garden wall, and on the west by the 
 Keeper's house, outer Porch, and porter's lodge. The 
 second, which was inclosed by buildings, was on the site of 
 the present Palace. On the south, there were two smaller 
 courts, similarly inclosed ; and on the east, there was another, 
 where once stood the cloisters of the Abbey, on the spot now 
 occupied as a garden. 
 
 About the time thai James the Sixth returned from Den- 
 mark with bis bride in 1590, some repairs were made upon 
 the Palace, under the direction of Inigo Jones. It then be- 
 came James' favourite residence ; and here his Queen was 
 delivered of Prince Henry Frederick, whose premature death 
 occasioned so much grief to the two nations, and the Princess 
 Elizabeth, who was married to the unfortunate Elector Pala- 
 trne of Bohemia. In the time of Cromwell, great part of the 
 Palace was destroyed by his soldiers. But, on the Restora- 
 tion of Charles the Second, that Monarch directed a complete 
 renovation of it. In consequence, the present superb fabric, 
 which was designed by Sir William Bruce of Kinross, a 
 
or ROLTROODHOUSE. 2* 
 
 c^'lebrr.teJ archiiect, was begun aiul completed in 1671-8 by 
 Robert INfilne, mason. 
 
 From that period downward to the present, the Palace ba« 
 never been visited by a reigning Monarch, with the exception 
 of his present Majesty. When the Duke of York, afterwards 
 James the Seventh, found it necessary to withdraw from 
 England, on account of the popular feeling excited by the 
 pretended Popish plot, he took up his abode here ; and, not- 
 withstanding the violence of his public measures, as Vice- 
 regent, he took the most effectual method, by the condescen- 
 sion and affability of his manners, of winning the affections of 
 the Scottish nobility. The entertainments he gave to thetn 
 were frequent ; and, if we are to trust to the chronicles of 
 those days, it was by his Duchess, and his daughter, the 
 Princess, afterwards Queen Anne, that the use of tea was 
 first introduced into Scotland. 
 
 "When the army of the Chevalier, Prince Charles, in 1745, 
 occupied Edinburgh, he took possession of Holyroodhouse ; 
 ^nd fixed his residence in the apartments contained within the 
 old portion of it built by James the Fifth. Not long after- 
 wards, the Duke of Cumberland, upon his return from the 
 battle of Culloden, occupied the same apartments, and slept in 
 t-!ie bed which had been used by Charles. 
 
 About the year 1790, the palace underwent a substantial re- 
 pair, by order of the Barons of Exchequer ; and shortly after- 
 wards it afforded an asylum to the Count D'Artois, (now King 
 of France), and his sons the Dukes D'Angouleme, (now the 
 Dauphin) and De Berri, with others of the French nobility. 
 His Royal Highness, while he resided there, had frequent 
 leVees, which were extremely splendid ; and melancholy as 
 the reflection was, still to Scotsmen it was an agreeable one, 
 that the heir of that powerful Monarchy betwixt which and 
 their own, a lengue had subsisted, without iuterrnption, for 
 D 
 
2S PALACE AND CHAPEL-ROYAL 
 
 manj- centuries, was accommodated, during the eclipse of his 
 forfiine, in a style becoming his high rank, ^^ithin the palace 
 of their native Princes, His Royal Highness, family and suite, 
 took farewell of Holyroodhouse in 1799.* 
 
 In 1822, his present Majesty having intimated his gracious 
 intention to visit Scotland, several important repairs and im- 
 jirovements were made upon the palace for his reception. In 
 particular, the apartments of the second storey of the south 
 side of tlie Palace, were thrown into one, and converted into 
 a presenp<' chamber, which was superbly fitted up ; and at the 
 west end was erected a sumptuous throne, which was brought 
 by sea from Buckingham House. His Majesly arrived in Leith 
 roads on 14th August, 1822. His magnificent reception at 
 Loith and at the boundaries of the City, the enthusiasm with 
 which his presence was hailed by all classes of his subjects, 
 the rejoicings ^'\•hich they indulged in, and the benignity of 
 his Majesty's whole manner, live too vividly in the recollec- 
 tions of all, to require being particularlj' dwelt upon. Suffice 
 it to say, that having landed at the pier of Lei(h on the loth 
 
 * The following is a letter addressed by bis Royal Highness, on 
 the occasion, to the Lord Provost and Magistrates of Edinburgh : — 
 
 " Edinburgh, August 5, 1799. 
 ** Gentlemen. — Circumstances relative to tlie good of the ser- 
 vice of the King my lirother, making it requisite that I should 
 leave this country, where, during my residence, I have constantly 
 received the most distinguished marks of attention and regard, I 
 should reproach myself were I to depart without expressing to its 
 respective magistrates, and through them to the inhabitants at large, 
 the grateful sense with which my heart is penetrated for the noble 
 manner in which they have seconded tlic generous hospitality of 
 His Britannic Majesty. I hope I shall one day have it in my 
 power to make known in happier moments, my feelings on this 
 occasion, and express to you more fully the sentiment with which 
 you have inspired me ; the sincere assurance of which, time only 
 permits me to offer you at present. 
 To the Lord ProvDst and ) 
 
 Magistrates of the City [ (Signed) CHARLES PHILIP.'» 
 
 of Edinlurgh, y 
 
OP HOLYROODHOUhE. 29 
 
 of August, he arrived, in his state carriage, at Holyroodhouse, 
 escorted by the Royal Archers, as his body guard ; a number 
 of the Highland clans in the costume and armour of their 
 country, and several corps of dragoons and yeomanry cavalry, 
 and attended by all the Officers of State for Scotland, most of 
 her nobility, and the Officers of his Household. He entered 
 the royal gateway amid the roar of artillery from the Castle, 
 the Calionhill, and Salisbury Crags, and the more deafening 
 shouts of his people. 
 
 The same day he gave audience within the Palace to the 
 different Scottish Officers of State, and to the Lord Provost 
 and Magistrates of Edinburgh ; after which he held a Privy 
 Council. 
 
 His Majesty, during his stay in Scotland, resided at Dal- 
 keith Palace. But, on the 17th August, he held a levee in 
 the Palace, which was splendidly attended by the whole 
 nobility, who were not detained from it by age or indisposi- 
 tion, and most of the gentry and public functionaries of his 
 ancient Kingdom, who tendered to him their homage. Oa 
 the 20th of the same month, he held a drawing room, when the 
 Palace exhibited a scene refulgent with the female beauty of 
 Scotland. His Majesty once privately visited the apartments 
 through which he was conducted by the Hereditary Keeper, 
 the Duke of Hamilton ; and was deeply affected as he viewed 
 those occupied by the unfortunate Mary. On several other 
 occasions during his stay, the Palace was honoured by his 
 Majesty's presence. 
 
 We have now to speak of the architecture of the Palace. It is 
 a beautiful fabric, uniting the different orders of Roman Archi- 
 tecture ; and is of a quadrangular form, having an open 
 Court of ninety-two feet square in the centre. It has two 
 fronts, a western and an eastern, to the first of which only 
 there is an approach. At eaet extremity of the western front 
 
30 PALACE AND CHAPEL llflYAL 
 
 is a large castellated square tower, four stories iu hciglif, 
 strengthened by three circular towers at its exterior angles, ris- 
 ing from the ground to the battlements. The one upon the 
 north end is the most imposing, and is the original part of the 
 Palace built by James the Fifth, whose name may still be 
 traced on a tablet inserted in a recess of the N. W. Tower, 
 " Jac. Rex V. Scotorum." The one upon the south has 
 been built so as strictly to correspond with it. The twa 
 towers are connected by a lower building of two storeys, 
 with a flat roof and ballustrade, which afford to the spectator 
 outside a view of the very elegant pediment which sur- 
 mounts the centre of the east side of the quadrangle. In 
 the centre of that connecting lower building is the grand 
 entrance to the Palace, composed of four Roman Doric 
 columns, with high plinths, and corresponding entablature, 
 under which appear the Royal Arms of Scotland, surmounted 
 by a unique open pediment, on which are two reclining 
 figures. Over the centre of this open pediment is an octa- 
 gonal tower, with pillars of the Corinthian order at its angles, 
 terminated by an imperial crovvn. This tower contains the 
 public clock of the Palace. 
 
 , Passing through this gateway, the visitor enters an arcade 
 on a level with the ground, which surrounds the area or 
 inner court, and has nine arches on each side, divided by 
 fluted Doric pilasters, with a corresponding entablature all 
 round, having the Scottish thistle, crown, sword, and sceptre, 
 placed alternately on the frieze between the triglyphs. 
 
 The east, south, and north sides of the quadrangle are of 
 three stories. Between the windows of the second story is a 
 range of Ionic pilasters ; and between the windows of the 
 third a range of pilasters of the Corinthian order, with their 
 respective entablatures. 
 
 The cast side of the area alone presents, in its centre, a pcdi- 
 
OF HOLYROODUOUSE. 31 
 
 menl, and displays, within its tympanum, in alto relievo, the 
 Royal Arms of Great Britain, as borne in Scotland since the 
 Union. 
 
 The eastern front of the Palace, which is to be viewed from 
 St. Anne's Gardens, consists of three stories, each having 
 seventeen windows. Between the windows of the three 
 stories are ranges of pilasters, the first Doric, the second Ionic, 
 and the highest Corinthian, corresponding with those of the 
 inner court. The entablature of each being continued unin- 
 terruptedly along the whole extent of the front, the effect is 
 at once chaste and magnificent. This front, in consequence 
 of the royal order for repairing the Palace and Abbey, has 
 recently been completely renewed in its original style. 
 
 We now proceed to notice the interior of the Palace. The 
 original portion of it, built by James the Fifth, is entered from 
 the north side of the arcade ; and it, with part of the west 
 front, is set apart for the residence of the Duke of Hamilton, 
 the hereditary keeper, by whom it is occupied when his 
 Grace is in Edinburgh*. A large staircase leads to a suite 
 of rooms, which were inhabited by Queen Mary. The 
 furniture of them, which is certainly antique, is said to 
 have been used in her time. In her bed-room is shewn the 
 state-bed, in which Prince Charles, and, after him, the Duke 
 of Cumberland, slept in 1745-0; also a set of chairs, covered 
 with crimson velvet and ornamented with coronets ; and a 
 bed of Mary's, of crimson damask, bordered with green j^ilk 
 
 * Formerly the Keeper of the Palace had his residence over the 
 western porch of the Abbey, which stretched across the foot of the 
 Canongate, bounding the outer court of the Palace on the west. 
 As remarked before it was taken down in 1755, though part of its 
 arches may still be traced on the wall of a building at the foot of 
 the Canongate, which is now used as tlie Court-room and Jail of the 
 Abbey, which has a distinct jurisdiction of its own, for offences 
 committed against the inhabitants, or debts contracted within the 
 boundaries of the Sanctuary. 
 
M r\l.\Ch) AND ( JJArKL-IiOV.U, 
 
 tassfl.s and fiiui^es. Though niuch decay eil, Ihc prtst-nl 
 King, when he viewed it, expressed his surprise it was not 
 much more so, considering its great age. 
 
 The ceiling of this bed-room is divided into compartments, 
 each charged with the armorial device of some one of the 
 blood-royal of Scotland ; and its walls are covered with 
 tapestry, the subjects which it represents being taken from 
 Ovid's Metamorphoses. 
 
 In a wall of this room is a small aperture, opening upon a 
 pasi.age to a trap stair, which communicates with the apart- 
 ments beneath. It was through this that Darnley and his 
 confederates found access to the room, and from it to a small 
 doset adjoining, when they came to murder Rizzio. The 
 Queen, the Countess of Argyle, and Rizzio were supping at 
 the time in that closet, from which he was dragged by the 
 party, through the bed room into the chamber of presence; 
 before be reached which tifty-tive wounds had terminated his 
 existence. The entreaties of the Queen availed nothii.'g to 
 save the life of her favourite ; and even her person, which ho 
 clung to, afforded him no pratection.* 
 
 In the closet we have been speaking of, are shewn the 
 
 * The following account of this aflair is very charaetebistie j it is 
 contained in a letter addressed by the Earl of Bedford and Thoma* 
 Kandolph to the Privy Council of England : — 
 
 " Upon the Saterdaye at nyghte, ncre unto viij. of the elockc 
 the King convoythe liymself, the Lord Kutlien, George Duglas, 
 and two other^ tliorowc his owne clianiber by tlie i)revie stayers, up. 
 to the Quene's chamber, yoinge (going) to whjeli ther is a cabinet 
 al'>owte xij footes square, in the same a lyttle lowe reposinge bedde, 
 and a table, at the which ther were syttinge at the supper the 
 Quene, the Lady Argile, and David with his cappe upon his li^ade. 
 
 " Into the cabinet ther commethe in the King and Lord Ruthen 
 who wyllcd David to come forthe, sayinge that ther was no place 
 for hyu). The Quene saide that yt was her wyll. Her hows- 
 bonde answerde tliat yt was agaynste her honor. The Lord Ruthen 
 saide, that he sholde lerne better his dcutie, and oflferinge to have 
 taken hyni by the arnie, David tookc the Queue by the blyghtes 
 
OF IIOLYROODIIOUSE. 33 
 
 armour of Darnlcy and bis sen James the Sixth ; also Qiieou 
 Mar} 's dressinir-box. 
 
 In the CiVsi flat of this suite of apartments, ?. e. those con- 
 tained in the ancient part of the Palace, there are some good 
 portraits <fcc. ; those of James the Fourth, (a head) ; .iMary of 
 (iuise, the mother of Queen Marj-; Cardinal Beaton, {a 
 head) ; Queen Mary, when the youthful bride of Francis the 
 Second of France ; the same, as she appeared at her execu- 
 tion ; the Duke of Lennox, father of Darnley ; the Regent 
 Murray ; John Knox, (a half length) ; James the Sixth ; 
 Philip the Second of Spain, in armour; Lord John Belasys; 
 one, supposed by some to be of Darnley, by others of Prince 
 Henry, second son of James the Sixth; James, First Duke 
 of Hamilton, beheaded in 1649 ; Charles the Second; Will-iam 
 and Mary ; and'the Countess of Cassilis ; also a view of the 
 City of Venice. The tapestry represents the battles of Con- 
 stantine the Great : — Up stairs, there are pictures of Jaive 
 Shore, Henry the Eighth, Queen Elizabeth, the Battle of the 
 Boyne, &e. 
 
 These upper apartments, communicate, on the east sid^j 
 with the Picture Gallery, which occupies the whole length 
 of the first floor over the arcade, on the north side of 
 the court, from which it may be entered by a staircase at its 
 
 (folds) of her gowne, and put hymself behynde the Quene, wlio 
 wolde gladlye have savid hyra ; but the King havinge loosed liis 
 hands, and holdinge her in his amies, David was thruste owte of 
 the cabinet thorowc the bedde chamber into tlie chamber of prcsens, 
 whear were the Lord Morton, Lord Lindesaye, whoe intendinge that 
 nyghte to have reserved hym, and the nexte daye to hang« hym ; so 
 maynie being abowte them that bore hym evle wyll, one thruste hyra 
 into the boddie with a dagger, and after hym a greate maynie other, 
 so that he had in his boddie above Lv. wonds. Yt is tolde for 
 certayne that the King's owne dagger was lefte stickinge in hym, 
 Wheather he stroke hym or not, we cane not kwowe fur certayne. 
 He was not slayne in the Quene's presens as was saide, but yoinge 
 down€ the stayers owte of the chamber of presens." 
 
34 P»LA('E AM) CIIAPEL-ROVAL 
 
 norlb-cAst angle. It is 145 feet in length, 25 in breadth, pnd 
 ISJ in height; nnd is lighted ehiefly from the inner court, 
 nine of its twelve windows overlooking it ; the other three 
 are at the east end of the room. The walls of it are adorned 
 with the portraits of one hundred and eleven Kings of Scot- 
 land, most of them fanciful, though a few undoubtedly have 
 been copied from originals. They were painted by De Witt, 
 a Dutchman; and, though far from being first-rate specimens 
 of art, they are as fi..r from being so contemptible as some 
 have represented them. In 1745, the troops of General Ilaw- 
 ley, who, a few days before, at Falkirk, had disgracefully fled 
 before a handfid of half-armed Highlanders, employed their 
 valour, while they indulged their antipathies, in slashing those 
 pictures with their sabres. They were then quartered in the 
 Palace. The pictures were, a good many years ago, repair- 
 ed ; and, after being removed from their hanging frames, 
 fixed into the pannels of the wainscoating. 
 
 In this gallery the Peers of Scotland conduct the elections 
 of their sixteen representatives in the British Parliament. 
 AYhile the Count D'Artols resided here, mass was regularly 
 celebrated in it by the French priests, who were in hia 
 suite. 
 
 On the north side of the Picture Gallery, and on the same 
 flat, are the lodgings formerly assigned to the Earl of Dun- 
 more, but which are now occupied by the Duke of Hamilton. 
 A celebrated painting by Mytons of Charles the First and 
 his Queen going a hunting, in which is introduced the cele- 
 brated dwarf Jeffrey Hudson, holding a spaniel in a leash, 
 was formerly in these apartments, but is now removed to 
 the country. 
 
 A small room on the north side of this part of the building 
 is denominated the Crown-room ; and the Regalia of Scot- 
 land were deposited here during his Majesty's visit, under the 
 
OF HOLYROODHOUSG. 3^ 
 
 charge of the Kulght Marischal of Scotland, whose giiarUs oc<> 
 eupled the adjoining room. 
 
 Returning to the Picture Gallerj', we leave it by the south 
 east, and enter, upon the same elevation, an elegant suite of 
 state apartments, which occupy the • whole extent of the east 
 side of the quadrangle. The festoons of flowers and ifoliage 
 over the doors and mantle pieces are extremely elegant ; the 
 cielings are overlaid with stucco ornaments, which are rather 
 massive ; and the walls are wainscoated with oak. These apart- 
 ments, both on the west and east side, were occupied by the 
 t)uke d'Artois. 
 
 Above these, in the northern division of the same 
 side of the quadrangle, are the apartments alloted to the 
 Argyll family. The southern division, and the adjoining 
 rooms on the south side of the Palace, form the resi- 
 dence of the Earl of Breadalbane. Here are some very 
 fine paintings, and a representation of the battle between 
 Alexander the Great and Darius, done in Gobeline tapestry. 
 
 Returning to the flat beneath, we enter, by the south east, 
 a passage leading to the grand hall of audience, which was 
 fitted up, as we have before described, for the use of his pre- 
 sent Majesty, who held a levee and drawing room in it. It 
 occupies the flat above the arcade on the south side of the 
 quadrangle ; is 60 feet in length, 30 feet broad, and about 
 20 feet high. 
 
 The S. W, tower and adjoining apartments are occupied by 
 the Earl of Strathmore, and are entered by a broad staircase 
 at the south west angle of the inner court. Some of the room* 
 are very spacious, and seem to have been designed for levees* 
 
 E 
 
PALACE AND CHAPilL ROYAL 
 
 aaoyal ©arlrrit* 
 
 This Garden lies to the north west of the Palace, and is 
 about an acre and a half in extent. It is bounded on the 
 north by the Abbey Hill, on the west by several old houses, 
 on the south by the outer court of the Palace, and on the east 
 by the Artillery Park*. 
 
 The entrance to the Garden is by the south door, which 
 has the arms of Scotland, the thistle, and a number of appro- 
 priate devices sculptured around it. 
 
 In the centre of the Garden, is a beautiful sun-dial (the 
 subject of our vignette) the erection of which, is attributed 
 to the days of Queen Mary, and is still in excellent preser- 
 vation. A small ruinous house, said to have been used by 
 Queen Mary as a bath, stands at the north west corner of the 
 Garden. It has the appearance of great antiquity, but has 
 nothing in its present external aspect to render it attractive 
 to the stranger. The gilding on the mouldings of the upper 
 room is not altogether effaced, but the door to the Garden 
 is now built up. 
 
 * Through this park a road was formed preparatory to the pre- 
 sent King's Visit ; along which his Majesty passed to the Palace. 
 His route from the pier of Leith was along St. Bernard's and 
 Constitution Streets, Leith ; Leith Walk, Picardy Place, York 
 Place, North St. Andrew's Street, St. Andrew's Square, South St. 
 Andrew's Street, the Regent Bridge, and the New London Road 
 along the south side of the Calton Hill, down the Abbey Hill, and 
 along this New Road. 
 
op HOLYROODHOUISK. 87 
 
 ©escviptioii of t\)t ^\ntt&. 
 
 PLATE I— (VIGNETTE TITLE), ANCIENT HOROLOGE 
 IN THE ROYAL GARDEN. 
 
 This beautiful Sun-dial, or ratlier congeries of them, is usual- 
 ly denominated Queen Mary's dial. It forms the apex of a 
 richly ornamented pedestal, which rests upon a hexagonal 
 base consisting of three steps. 
 
 The farm of the Horologe is multangular, for though its 
 two principal sections are pentagonal, yet from these termi- 
 nating in pyramidal forms, and, being diametrically opposed 
 to each other, again connected by triangular spaces, it pre- 
 sents no fewer than twenty sides, on which are placed twenty- 
 two dials, inserted into circular, semi-circular, and triangular 
 cavities. Very few of the gnomens remain, although the 
 whole is very little injured by decay, Betvyeen the dials are 
 the Royal Arms of Scotland, with the initials " M. R." 
 << C. R." " C. P'' (fee, St. Andrew and his cross, St. George 
 and the dragon. Fleurs-de-lis, and numerous other devices. 
 It is about ten feet high, and altogether presents a curious 
 specimen of workmanship, deserving of minute examination. 
 
 PLATE II.— PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE, 
 WEST FRONT. 
 
 This view of the Palace is taken from the outer court. 
 Its two castellated square towers, strengthened on their ex- 
 terior angles by round towers of elegant dimensions, appear 
 •at the extremities of the west front, while the grand entrance, 
 with the Royal Arms of Scotland above it, is seen in the centre 
 of the lower building. 
 
 The south front (in which is a private entrance, which was 
 
9S PALACE AND CHAPBL-ROTAL 
 
 ttsed by \\\h M^j^s^J oq bi« late ykit) In seen to the right of the 
 plciare. 
 
 PLATE III.— PALACE OF HOLYRO.ODHOUSE, 
 FROM THE ROYAL GARDEN. 
 
 This plate exhibits a north west view of the Palace, taken 
 from the back of Queen Mary's bath, in the Royal Garden, 
 with the beautiful Sun-dial in the foreground. The ancient 
 part of the Palace built by James the Fifth, overlooks 
 <he Garden Wall, and forms a very conspicuous object from 
 Ibis point of view, with the remaining part of th« west front. 
 Arthur's Seat appears in the distance. 
 
 PLATE IV.— PALACE OF HOLYROQDHOUSE, 
 FROM THE EAST. 
 
 This view is taken from St. Anne's Garden?, at the entrance to 
 the Duke's Walk. The whole of the south and east fronts of the 
 Palace and Chapel- Royal are seen from this spot. The great 
 e^t window, and the flying buttresses on the south side of the 
 Chapel, appear to great advantage, and form a fine contrast to 
 the more modern architecture of the Palace. On the south front 
 of the Palace is seen the private entrance. The Calton Hill, 
 surmounted by Nelson's Monument, rises above the Palace 
 and Chapel to the right; and on the left are seen part of the 
 buildings of the Old Town, and the house occupied by the 
 Governor of the new Jail, in the distance. 
 
 PLATE V._PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE, 
 INTERIOR OF THE QUADRANGLE. 
 
 The whole sides of the interior of the Palace are three stories 
 high, having a high roof with dormers or attic windows in the 
 French style of Louis XIV. excepting the west (through which 
 is the principal entrance) which is of two stories, and has a 
 flat roof and double ballustrade. The three stories are eu- 
 
OF MOLYROODUOVSE. 39 
 
 ricbed with pilasters of the Doric, Ionic, and CoriutLiaa 
 orders of Roman Architecture, and have a very pleasing 
 effect. 
 
 The east side appears in the centre of the view, with 
 \tf beautiful pediment, in the tympanum of which are the 
 Royal arms of Scotlant^, whjch have been assumed since the 
 Union. On the right are the windows of the State-room 
 and anti-chamber, above the arcade ; and a corresponding 
 Dumber of tbe windows of the picture gallery are seen to 
 the left. The large lamp in the centre of the square was 
 erected on the memorable occasion of his present Majesty's 
 visit. 
 
 PLATE VI.— PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE, 
 VIEW OF THE STATE-ROOM. 
 
 In this room his Majesty held a levee and drawing room ; 
 and here, immediately after his arrival, the Regalia of his 
 ancient Kingdom of Scotland, were presented to him with 
 due solemnity. The throne, which is at the west end of the 
 room, and was brought from Buckingham Palace, is splendidly 
 gilt and covered with crimson velvet; on the back of the 
 throne are two Cherubs supporting a crown ; and a small, but 
 neat footstool, is placed before it. 
 
 The canopy is richly carved and gilt, and is surmounted by 
 a crown, with the Unicorn and Lion as supporters, and has 
 but one fault (with some a very important one), that the 
 Unicorn is placed on the wrong side for a state room in Scot- 
 land. The drapery at the back of the throne has a crowq 
 with the Royal initials, encircled in a wreath of oak, em- 
 broidered on it ; the mouldings of the room and doors are 
 gilded, and the walls are covered with crimson cloth, while 
 the beautiful mirror above the fire-place on the south side 9f 
 
4» VAY.KCF. AND (H A rKi<-ROV AL 
 
 tIi-«- Foom, and 1 lie gorgeous banglngs of the windows, con- 
 Tey at once an idea of the internal decoration of Royal dwel- 
 lings, and more particularly that exhibition of it during the 
 resiJence of ancient Scottish Monarchs in this Palace. 
 
 PLATE VII CIIAPEL-ROYAL OF HOLYROODHOUSE^ 
 
 WEST FRONT. 
 
 The west fi-ont is considered the finest portion of the sur- 
 viving building, and is almost wholly covered with panne! 
 work. This view includes the original grand entrance, the 
 door of which is closed up, and the belfry, supposed to be one 
 ©f tw^o towers, which at an early period, flanked this en- 
 tirance. 
 
 Ite dtjor, is of the richest execution, and is very deeply re- 
 «essed, having on each side, eight shafts, divided by bands, with, 
 Seautifut capitals composed of birds and other grotesque 
 figures ; its laneet pointed arch has several highly enriched 
 mouldings of open work flowers, beautifully carved, which are 
 entirely hollow, having no support but the attachment at the 
 sides, and the connection of the leaves themselves. The 
 architrave within the arch, rests on small corbels, and has a 
 sjuccessioft of cherubs carved on it. The space above the 
 architrave is faced with lancet pointed arches, supported by 
 triple shafts with rich capitals. 
 
 The two windows above this door are of peculiar construe- 
 tiion. They have each two small clustered columns connect- 
 ed by arches, below, and two very plain mullions, above the 
 transom J the tops of the \"V'indovvs are each formed of the 
 segment of a circle, and instead of tracery have six pendant 
 Seurs-de-Ks, which, either owing to defective workmanship of 
 #cay, ill correspond with the richness of the door beneath. 
 
 Between these two windows is a tablet with this inscription i 
 
©F HOLYROODMOrSK. ; 41 
 
 HE iHALL BL'ILD ANE HOUiiE 
 
 yOR MY NAME, AND I WILJ. 
 
 STABLISH THE THRONE 
 
 OF HIS KINGDOM 
 
 FOR EVER, 
 
 5BASILICAM HANC SEMf 
 RUTAM, CAROHJS REX 
 OPTIMUS INSTAURAVIT 
 
 ANNO DONL 
 €13. IDC, XXXIII. 
 The belfry is of three stories, about fifty-two feet in heighl 
 and twenfy-three in breadth. It is lighted from the upper 
 story by four large windows, (one on each side), divided by 
 a single shaft in the centre, and having two on each side of the 
 window ; the two outer shafts support the drop arch, the other 
 three are connected by two minor arches, with a large quatre- 
 foil above. The first and second -stories are covered with 
 pannel work on the west and south sides, so as to correspond 
 with the west front of the Chapel, but the east and north sides 
 are plain ; a small semi-circular arched window appears on the 
 first story of the north and east sides, which had formerly 
 lighted that part of the belfry in which Lord Belhaven's 
 Monument is erected, but are now built up. 
 
 PLATE VIII — CHAPEL-ROYAL OF HOLYROOD. 
 HOUSE, INTERIOR, LOOKING EAST, 
 
 This plate gives a view of the splendid interior of the Chapel- 
 Royal, with the great east window in the centre ; part of the 
 remaining piers and arches of the south wall, and the south 
 aisle to the right ; and the north aisle, with Us two remaining 
 piers, and the north wall to the left. 
 
 The east window is of five lights, crossed by a iransom ; 
 fhe mnllions which sustain it have trefoil heads, and f4^ath^'r<*d 
 
41 PALACE AND CHAPEL-ROYAL 
 
 qHatrefoil tracery ; the arch of the window is that usually 
 termed the drop arch. 
 
 The portion of the south wall shows five of the arches which 
 open to the south aisle, with their massive piers and richly 
 foliaged capitals ; above, are the arches of the gallery, and 
 small parts of the ribs of the groined roof. In the south aisle, 
 between the first arch from the east wall is the Royal vault, 
 strongly secured, and immediately to the west of it, is tha 
 Roxburgh vault. 
 
 The two broken piers in the centre are all that remain of 
 the north wall of the body of the Church, the others having 
 been borne down with the roof when it fell in 17G8. Between 
 these piers and the north wall is the lancet pointed arch ter- 
 minating the north aisle, at the bottom of which is seen the 
 beautiful pannelling or screen work, with a small door and 
 niches on each side, that had formerly opened to the tran- 
 sept. 
 
 Below the windows of the north wall, are a row of small 
 shafts with Saxon interlacing arches, and below the corre- 
 sponding windows of the south wall, are a row of similar 
 shafts with lancet pointed arches, thus combining a series of 
 styles; in addition to which, in other parts of the building, we 
 find the Norman arch with its zig-zag ornament, in a door of 
 the south wall at the back of the royal vault; semi-circular 
 arches in the two small windows of the belfry, and in a niche 
 above the west door; another semi-circular arch with a 
 crocketed ogee canopy, terminated by a finial, in the north 
 door ; equilateral in the remaining arches of the south aisle ; 
 groinedy acutely pointed in the roof of the south aisle ; lancet 
 pointed in the great west entrance and the smaller arches oC 
 the gallery ; slightly pointed in the windows of ^the north and 
 south aisles ; and segment or flat in the two windows over 
 the west door. 
 
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