Ex IGtbrtH SEYMOUR DURST When you leave, please leave this book Because it has been said " Sver'thing comes t' him who waits Except a loaned book." Avery Architectural and Fine Arts Library Gift of Seymour B. Durst Old York Library I Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2014 https://archive.org/details/hamiltonsitineraOOhami HAMILTON'S ITINERARIUM A. D. 1744 In One Volume HAMILTON'S ITINERARIUM BEING A NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY FROM ANNAPOLIS, MARYLAND THROUGH DELAWARE, PENNSYLVANIA, NEW YORK, NEW JERSEY, CONNECTICUT, RHODE ISLAND, MASSACHUSETTS AND NEW HAMPSHIRE FROM MAY TO SEPTEMBER, 1744 BY DOCTOR ALEXANDER HAMILTON EDITED BY ALBERT BUSHNELL HART, LL.D. PROFESSOR OF HISTORY IN HARVARD UNIVKRSITY PRINTED ONLY FOR PRIVATE DISTRIBUTION BY WILLIAM K. BIXBY SAINT LOUIS, MISSOURI— MCMVII 6 .U2l Copyrighted, 1907, William K. Bixby All rights reserved THE DE VINNE PRESS Amico suo honorando, divinitissimo domino Onorio Razolini, manuscriptum hocce Itinerarium, observantiae et amoris sui qualecumque symbolum, dat consecratque Alexander Hamilton. [Translation:] To his honourable and most Christian friend, Signor Onorio Razolini, this manuscript Itinerary- is dedicated and consecrated as a slight token of his love and respect by Alexander Hamilton. V The reader of the Itinerary of Doctor Alexander Hamilton will be interested in knowing something of the history of the manuscript. It was purchased by the present owner from Messrs. B. F. Stevens & Brown, of No. 4 Trafalgar Square, London. They purchased it from Frank T. Sabin, of No. 118 Shaftesbury Avenue, London, who states: — "The manuscript remained in the possession of the family of the Italian gentleman to whom it was dedicated, and to whom it was originally given, until within a few years. It then passed into the hands of an Italian bookseller, who sent it to a cor- respondent in London, from whom I purchased it. "Doubtless, owing to the rather obscure lettering on the back, it remained almost unnoticed for the last hundred years, or, on the other hand, it may have been preserved with reverent care by a gener- ation or two of descendants, who finally, tempted by a good offer, parted with it. It will not do for me to indulge in too much fanciful conjecture. So far as facts are concerned, they are as stated above." The present owner of the manuscript prints it for private distribution, believing that an unpublished manuscript of this period will be of interest to the parties to whom he sends it. W. K. B. vii I ( Four hundred and eighty-seven copies of this work have been printed for private distribution only. The forms have been broken up and the type distributed. INTRODUCTION BY ALBERT BUSH NELL HART PROFESSOR OF HISTORY IN HARVARD UNIVERSITY Among the numerous journals and narratives of travel during the Colonial period, few are so lively and so full of good-humored comment on people and customs as the Itinerarium of Dr. Hamilton, which now for the first time has become known. The his- tory both of the manuscript and of the writer is obscure. The original is a well-written and a re- markably well-spelled manuscript, covering both sides of sheets 63^x85^ inches, and making two hundred and seventy-eight pages. It is bound in vellum in a style unknown in America at that time, and therefore probably the work of an Italian book- binder. At the end is a statement that the manu- script was "Presented by Alexander Hamilton, Doctor of Medicine, to Onorio Razolini. Annapo- lis, Nov. 2Q, 1744." This was two months after Hamilton returned to AnnapoHs, and it is probable that his Italian friend was a visitor there, and that he wrote a continuous manuscript from notes taken during his journey. It could hardly have been in- tended for publication at the time when written, for it is too free in comment on well known indi- viduals. No reference is discoverable to the manu- script, either in the literature of the time or in later bibliographies; and it appears never to have been ix consulted as a contribution to American history until acquired by Mr. Bixby. In preparing the manuscript for the press, the editor has had the efficient aid of two graduate students of Harvard University, Mr. Thomas N. Hoover has made a diligent search into the refer- ences to persons ; and nearly all the important names have been placed in their proper setting, though some of the abbreviated names and obscure indi- viduals resisted all effort to make them yield their identity. Mr. John Kennedy Lacock has followed the route of Hamilton throughout his journey, and has been been able to verify every place that he passed or visited, except some of the taverns which have long since ceased to exist; and the map accom- panying this volume is the result of his researches. The editorial foot-notes have purposely been made succinct, the object being to state the full names of persons and places, with no detail except so far as necessary for identification. Hamilton's accuracy as a writer is shown by the fact that in only two or three cases, which are duly pointed out in the foot-notes, has he been detected in any serious mistake. The subject of this volume is a journey which Dr. Hamilton undertook in 1744, leaving Annapo- lis May 30, and travelling overland northward through New Castle, Wilmington, and Chester to Philadelphia. Mr. Hasell, of Barbadoes, whom he had expected to travel with him from An- napolis, he found at Philadelphia, where he stayed a week. June 13, he resumed his journey and spent three days on the ro^d to New York, crossing the Delaware near Bristol, and passing through Tren- X ton and Princeton to Perth Amboy ; and thence, via three ferries, to Staten Island, across the Narrows, and across the East River to New York, that being apparently the surest and most convenient route. After six days in New York, he started, June 21, in a sloop for Albany, together with Rev. John Miln, formerly a clergyman in Albany. The journey up occupied nearly five days; he stayed about a week in and around Albany, and spent three days on the return sloop journey. After five days' stay in New York, July 5 to 10, he started eastward with two Boston merchants, journeying through Long Island to the neighborhood of Montauk Point, thence across the Sound to New London, and thence through Stonington, Newport, Bristol, and Dedham to Boston, the whole journey occupying eight days. At Boston he stayed ten days, and then, July 28, started northward, stopping at Marble- head, Salem, Ipswich, and Newbury, to Portsmouth and New Castle, and back by the same route, a week's journey in all. After about two weeks in Boston, he started southward August 18, going through Providence and Bristol to Newport, where he stayed a week. He resumed his travels August 24, passing New London, Saybrook, New Haven, and Norwalk to New York, a week's journey. The second visit in New York occupied two weeks; he left September 13, and after five days' stay in Philadelphia, reached home again September 27, having travelled, as he records it, 1624 miles. As to the author, throughout the Itinerarium he modestly refrains from discussion of his own family or condition and mentions his first name only in the dedication to his friend Razolini; but it is almost certain, in view of the fact that the manuscript in one place alludes to Mr. Dulany of Annapolis, that he was the Doctor Alexander Hamilton who, on May 29, 1747, was married to Margaret Dulany, daughter of Hon. Daniel Dulany; and that this lady was the widowed Mrs. Hamilton who in 1757 married William Murdock. Dr. Alexander Hamilton had a brother of whom he speaks as prac- tising medicine in Maryland in 1727, and apparently still in Annapolis in 1744. Hamilton seems to have been fond of discursive writings, for he was the Historian of a society called the Tuesday Club in Annapolis, and has left several folio volumes in manuscript of a serio-comic history of that organi- zation, which from the few specimens printed seem somewhat inferior to the Itinerarium in literary skill. The Itinerarium by chance allusions makes it certain that Hamilton was born in Scotland, and "learnt pharmacy" of David Knox, an Edinburgh surgeon. Some time in his life he travelled in Eng- land, and visited London. He practised medicine in Annapolis, but suffered a severe illness in 1743, so that he calls himself in one place a "valetudinarian" ; and he made the journey in 1744 chiefly to recover his health. Of Annapolis he seems not to have been very fond; although he wrote home while on his travels, he records that for three months he re- ceived no news; and he alludes to the place as "a desolate expensive town," and "that wretched city." He was well acquainted in Maryland, where he had many friends and was in the habit of meeting vis- itors from other Colonies, some of whom were hos- pitable to him on his travels. He had means to xii travel like a gentleman, with two horses, one of which carried his negro slave man, Dromo; and to live comfortably wherever he went. Dr. Moffatt, of Newport, he calls "an old acquaintance and school fellow of mine." He took in the Physical News, of Edinburgh, a medical journal. Hamilton could speak Latin and a little French, the latter language he could also write with some facility ; and he was interested in current and classi- cal literature. He alludes to Rabelais; notes con- versation about Cervantes; reads "a book lately writ by Fielding, entitled The Adventures of Joseph Andrews, and thought my time well spent." He reads Montaigne's Essays, and Rollin's Belles Let- tres. He likes Shakespeare's Timon of Athens; he reads Mucins Scsevola, "a most luscious piece, . . . but only because I knew it to be a piece of excellent good Latin." Although this is substantially all the positive in- formation that can be gleaned from the Itinerarium, Hamilton's character is clearly and agreeably re- vealed from beginning to end. First of all he is a lover of Nature, interested in the face of the coun- try, noticing rocks, bowlders, unusual trees, and the beauties of the seashore. He is only mildly inter- ested in government, noticing in Pennsylvania poli- tics, "the interest of the Palatines [that is, the Penn- sylvania Dutch] in this Province, who of late have turned so numerous that they can sway the votes which way they please ;" and he thinks the govern- ment of Pennsylvania "a kind of anarchy (or no government), there being perpetual jars between the two parts of the legislature." He is told that the Jersey House of Assembly "was chiefly com- xiii posed of mechanics and ignorant wretches, obsti- nate to the last degree ;" but in general, he is content to leave politics aside, and will not even discuss the political and social conditions of his own province. Hamilton is always interested in science, or what was then taken for science. He talks with a "vir- tuoso in botany;" he looks in vain for the ginseng plant; he criticises a Treatise on Microscopes, and shows some knowledge of mathematics; he talks philosophy and disputes on the theory of the tides with the gentlemen at Todd's Tavern in New York. Like other scientific men he has a low opinion of the science which he hears in a Boston sermon ; but he greatly appreciates a "sun microscope." On all such subjects his point of view is that of an intel- ligent, well-read, and thoughtful man. Throughout the journey Hamilton found himself at home among the doctors, and the Itinerarium throws an interesting light upon the conditions of the art of healing nearly two centuries ago. Be- sides his previous acquaintances in the profession, he started out with letters of introduction to several distinguished physicians, and was by them recom- mended to others. Among them was the eminent Dr. Phineas Bond, of Philadelphia, who showed him "some pretty good anatomical preparations"; Dr. Colquhoun, of New York ; Dr. Moffatt, of New- port; Dr. William Douglass and Dr. Clark of Bos- ton ; Dr. Goddard, of New London. Much conver- sation is recorded on the controversy between the "empirical" and the "clinical" schools, including hot discussions of the authority of Boerhaave and his works. He notes several doctors who combined with the medical profession that of the ministry. XIV The allusions to the theory of medicine are, how- ever, few. People catch ague from being out late nights, and the appropriate remedy is "the force of a vomit." On the whole, Hamilton finds his pro- fession in a low state. "The doctors in Albany are mostly Dutch, all Empirics, having no knowledge or learning but what they have acquired by their experience— a great many of them take the care of a family for the value of a Dutch dollar a year, which makes the practice of physick a mean thing, and unworthy of the application of a gentleman. The doctors here are all barbers." Many of the doctors whom he meets, especially in New York, are drunken roisterers; and many others are palpable quacks, such as the "greasy thumbed fellow" whom he saw pull out a housemaid's tooth "with a great clumsy pair of blacksmith's forceps." Hamilton follows a safe middle course and anticipates modern surgery by saying: "for my part I knew of no way of curing cancer but by extirpation or cutting it out." Although a doctor among doctors, Hamilton was more interested in men and manners than in medi- cine; and a special merit of the Itinerarium is the light shed upon the social life of the time by an intel- ligent observer admitted to the best society of the places that he visited, and at the same time taking- note of the life of the plain people among whom he passed. On several different occasions he meets a "Teague"— that is, a wild Irishman; for the Teague of the eighteenth century is the Pat of the nine- teenth. He is greatly interested in the Dutch of Albany, whom he found a "civil and hospitable peo- ple in their way, but at best rustic and unpolished— XV their whole thoughts being turned upon profit and gain, which necessarily makes them live retired and frugal." He notes that the clean houses of the Dutch co-exist with dirty persons, a remark the con- verse of which he applies to the French, one of whom is a fellow lodger in Boston. Of negroes he sees little and says little except to notice some ex- periences of his Dromo ; but it is significant that in a conversation about "a certain free negro in Jamaica, who was a man of estate, good sense, and educa- tion," somebody "gravely asked if that negro's par- ents were not whites, for he was sure that nothing good could come of the whole generation of blacks." The Indians especially attracted his attention and he met all sorts from the naked wretches fishing for oysters on Long Island Sound, to "King George," the owner of 20,000 or 30,000 acres of land near Stonington. "His queen goes in a high modish dress in her silks, hoops, stays, and dresses like an Englishwoman. . . . He educates his children to the belles lettres and is himself a very complaisant, mannerly man." He visits the Indian town near Albany and dines at Colonel Schuyler's. He sees a party of "French Mohooks on horseback, dressed d la mode frangaise, with laced hats, full-trimmed coats, and ruffled shirts." His most interesting sketch of the Indians is that of a council which he witnessed at Boston, in which Hendrick, a Mohawk chief, tells the eastern Indians, "if you are disobe- dient and rebel you shall die, every man, woman, and child of you, and that by our hands. We will cut you off from the earth, as an ox licketh up the grass." Social life immensely interested Hamilton wher- xvi ever he went, and he had his share of dinners, teas, and clubs. An unmarried man, travelHng alone, living in lodgings, and taking most of his meals at taverns and coffee-houses, he was in a position to see the seamy side of both high life and low life. The tone of the Itinerarium is that of a somewhat severe critic of his countrymen. Hamilton has a low opinion of Maryland and seems to find condi- tions not much better elsewhere. When some Penn- sylvanians whom he met upon the road enlarged upon the "immorality, drunkenness, rudeness, and immoderate swearing, so much practised in Mary- land, and added that no such vices were to be found in Pennsylvania," Hamilton says, "I heard this and contradicted it not, because I knew that the first part of the proposition was pretty true ;" and when a lady in Philadelphia inveighed against the Mary- land clergy, he made but a lame defence. Perhaps there is a certain spirit of retaliation in his criticism of tjie Pennsylvanians : "They have in general a bad notion of the neighboring Province, Maryland, esteeming the people a set of cunning sharpers; but my notion of the af¥air is, that the Pennsylvanians are not a whit inferior to them in the science of chicane, only their method of tricking . is different. ' A Pennsylvanian will tell a lie with a sanctified, solemn face; a Marylander perhaps will convey his fib in a volley of oaths, but the effect and point in view are the same, tho' the manner of oper- ating be different." New York fares no better: "The people of New York at the first appearance of a stranger, are seemingly civil and courteous, but this civility and complaisance soon relaxes if he be not either highly recommended or a good toper." xvii Boston receives a like drubbing. "The people are generally more captivated v^^ith speculative than with practical religion. It is not by half such a flagrant sin to cheat and cozen one's neighbor, as it is to ride about for pleasure on the sabbath day, or to neglect going to church and singing of psalms. The middling sort of people here are to a degree disingenuous and dissembling, which appears even in their common conversation in which their indi- rect and dubious answers to the plainest and fairest questions show their suspicions of one another. The better sort are polite, mannerly, and hospitable to strangers." These generalities are not the whole story ; and it is rather whimsical that the Yankee re- serve and unwillingness to commit oneself should pass for dissimulation. Nevertheless, the Itinerarium contains abundant evidence of the crudity of much of the Colonial life. Here he sees a country family near the Delaware whose "mess was in a dirty, deep, wooden dish, which they evacuated with their hands, cramming down skins, scales, and all. They used neither knife, fork, spoon, plate, or napkin, because I suppose, they had none to use." There he observes a drunken club breaking off and riding "helter-skelter, as if the devil had possessed them, every man sitting his horse in a seesaw manner like a bunch of rags tied upon the saddle." In New York he animadverts on the habit of drinking bumpers of such potency that three of them sent Hamilton home at ten o'clock "pretty well flushed." A vice which Hamilton sets forth in numerous exactly recorded instances was that of cursing. Dromo most impolitely adjures a Dutch girl who xviii knows no English. A Dutch gentleman indulges himself in a special "Dunder, Sacramentum, and Jesu Christus." A seventy-five year old sailor freely "damns his old shoes." Even the ladies occasion- ally rip out a pretty oath. Of coarser forms of vice Hamilton heard much and saw Httle, though he vis- ited one morning in Boston a chocolate house, where the company was anything but select. A man is likely to be confidential in such a diary, and Ham- ilton stands the test of his own records. The Itine- rariuni has some of the direct and plain-spoken lan- guage familiar at the time. In some parts there is a frankness of phrase better suited to a private jour- nal than to a printed book. Although the work throughout is clean and wholesome in spirit, a few words have been omitted as being too outspoken, and undesirable for publication. At a time when there were no house clubs, the natural resort of men in search of relaxation and company was the tavern or the coffee-house. As a traveller Hamilton had a large experience in the 1600 miles of his journey, and he found every sort of accommodation. In general he had a better bed, a better room, and a better meal than those reported by travellers a century later on the western frontier or in the south. Occasionally he reports unwel- come room-mates who talked loudly or were other- wise annoying ; but he makes few complaints of the inns. The families of the innkeepers attracted his attention, for he pricked up his ears at sight of a pretty girl. He was surprised at the "comical names" of damsels in New England— "Thankful, Patience, Comfort, Hope, etc." In the cities he lived by preference at a lodging house, stabling his xix horses at some tavern. The coffee-houses were something more than eating-houses and less than a club, resembling the modern hotel restaurants in which a knot of friends habitually take lunch to- gether. At one of the taverns in Philadelphia he reports that he "spent the night agreeably and went home sober at eleven." In several cities Hamilton was made free of social clubs meeting from week to week. In the Govern- our's Club at Philadelphia, where he was intro- duced by Dr. Phineas Bond, he met many interest- ing strangers who were also visiting Philadelphia. "Several toasts were drank, among which were some celebrated ones of the female sex." The Governor of the Province was a member. The Hungarian Club of New York seems to have practised less gravity and he complains that its principal purpose was to drink bumpers. The Physical Club in Bos- ton, of which the celebrated Dr. Douglass was presi- dent, seems to have been a medical society. At the Philosophical Club at Newport, Hamilton was dis- appointed to find that the chief talk was of privateer- ing and the building of vessels. He remarks sev- eral times on the music he heard, which appeared to give him great pleasure ; and he enjoyed attendance at the Music Club at Philadelphia, "where I heard a tolerable concerto performed by a harpsichord and three violins." Although Hamilton had an eye for the maid ser- vants, he was no gallant with ladies. In Albany a friend "introduced me into about twenty or thirty houses, where I went thro' the farce of kissing most of the women, a manner of salutation which is ex- pected from strangers coming there. This might XX almost pass for a penance, for the generality of the women here, both old and young, are remarkably ugly." In Philadelphia and New York, though he dined out and knew some good families, he has very little to say of the ladies, and that, for the most part, critical. In Boston he found a countrywoman, Mrs. Blackater, whose daughters he condescended to think good-looking. Ladies' dress Hamilton hardly noted, though he was struck at Albany by the traditional Dutch cos- tume : "their old women wear a comical head-dress, large pendants, short petticoats;" and he records the boast of a fellow-traveller that "he had good linen in his bags, a pair of silver buckles, silver clasps, and gold sleeve buttons, two Holland shirts, and some neat night-caps, and that his little woman at home drank tea twice a day." At Huntington, Long Island, "there came in a band of politicians in short jackets and trousers," a very early instance of the wearing of long trousers by others than seamen. He was much shocked by two fellows "with long black beards, having their own hair, and not so much as half a night cap between them." It appears that the "night cap" of worsted was a common arti- cle of wear, and that linen night caps were "much wore in all the churches and meetings of America that I have been in, unless it be those of Boston, where they are more decent and polite in their dress ;" and Hamilton seemed pleased by the predic- ament of two Philadelphians who came to dinner in Boston in linen night-caps. As to religion, Hamilton, a Presbyterian in Scot- land and apparently a Church of England man in Maryland, was eclectic. He goes to the Congrega- xxi tional services in New England, supposing them to be Presbyterian. He visits the Synagogue in New York and the Cathohc Church in Philadelphia. He consorts with Quakers and is struck by their "silent grace" at meals; but though moderate in doctrine and worship, he has a very low opinion of the new sects. The Moravians in New York and New Jersey he supposes to be a "wild fanatic sect." Whitefield he dislikes intensely, accusing him of put- ting an end to assemblies in Philadelphia, and of being the man "who, only for the sake of private lucre and gain, sowed the first seeds of distraction in these unhapp}^ ignorant parts." He is amazed by the common taste in New England for "nice metaphysical distinctions. ... 'T is strange to see how this humour prevails, even among the lower class of the people here. They will talk so pointedly about justification, sanctification, adoption, regener- ation, repentance, free grace, reprobation, original sin, and a thousand other such pretty chimerical knicknacks, as if they had done nothing but studied divinity all their lifetime." The vials of Hamil- ton's wrath are especially poured out on the "New Lights," among whom he appears to place all the sects except the half dozen old denominations. One of these gentlemen replies smartly to Hamilton's criticism of Whitefield, and "he told me flatly that I was damned without redemption." Science, society, and religion did not exhaust Hamilton's interests. From day to day he was on the lookout for quaint and striking phrases and for curious incidents. The familiar New England prov- erb, "The devil to pay and no pitch hot," he picks up in New York. To an inquisitive fellow who asks xxii t him where he came from, he rephes that he is from ''Calhphurnia," presumably a reference to the old romance from which the name California was taken. He was one of the first to notice that the low tide in Boston Harbor 'left a very stinking puddle." He notes the use of the word "guns," meaning pis- tols, a phrase supposed to be of much later frontier origin. He makes note of the existence of a "state room" in the Castle in Boston Harbor. At New- port he goes "to a windmill near the town to look out for vessels," perhaps the so-called Norse Tower. Contrary to the accepted science of his time, he has glimpses of the Darwinian theory of development: "The progress of Nature is surprising in many such instances. She seems by one connected gradation to pass from one species of creatures to another, without any visible gap, interval, or discontinuum in her works." He falls in with a "comical, old, whim- sical fellow," who "talks much of cutting the Amer- ican isthmus in two, so to make a short passage to the south seas ; and if the powers of Europe cannot agree about it, he says he knows how to make a machine with little expense, by the help of which ships may be dragged over that narrow neck of land with all the ease imaginable, it being but a trifle above lOO miles." He notices the New England twang of a horse jockey, who would not sell "the jade for loo peaunds." He predicts for Philadel- phia "that in a few years hence, it will be a great and flourishing place, and the chief city in North America," a prediction which half a century later came true. After all, these are the accidental parts of Ham- ilton's Itinerarium. His accounts of the incidents xxiii of the journey, the roads, bridges or rather fords, and ferries, the sea voyage from New York to Al- bany, the brief visits to Harvard and Yale Colleges, these must be read to be appreciated. The most im- portant and freshest part of the work is the racy account of life in the large American cities, espe- cially Philadelphia, New York, Albany, Boston, Salem, Portsmouth, Newport, New London, and New Haven. His conclusions are especially val- uable because there are few contemporary de- scriptions of the Colonies between 1730 and 1745. If Hamilton had not the ability to make a night of it, which distinguishes his contemporary Cap- tain Francis Goelet, nor the sprightliness which makes Madam Knight's account of her journey from Boston to New York in 1704 a Colonial classic, he has a wide range of experience, large powers of observation, great opportunities of seeing the world. Quick of apprehension, lively in style, sane in his proportions and abounding in informa- tion, Hamilton in his Itinerarium has made posterity his debtor ; and must henceforth be reckoned with as one of the best sources of authority on the social life of his period. Cambridge, Massachusetts, September 4, 1906. xxiv DR. ALEXANDER HAMILTON The following- letter of the celebrated Dr. Upton Scott, of Annapolis, Md., is pasted in the front part of the original minutes of the proceedings of the Tuesday Club, now in the possession of the Mary- land Historical Society, Baltimore, Md. It was written to a member of the Baltimore Library Com- pany, which long since ceased to exist. The name of the person to whom it was addressed is not divulged. At the time of writing this letter Dr. Scott was eighty-seven years old : Annapolis, Md., 28 August 18 op. My Dear Sir : In consequence of the desire which you ex- pressed to have The History of the Tuesday Club displayed in your Library, I send you three volumes of that work, as a loan at your command, for the benefit of your Library until the first day of May next. As the third volume is still in sheets, I beg you will get it bound in any manner you may think most suitable, when the expense shall be reim- bursed on my being informed of the amount. The merit of this work is submitted to its readers, but I cannot be silent on that of its author, Dr. Alexander Hamil- ton, an eminent and learned physician, in the enjoyment of whose friendship I was truly happy until his death. He was a man of strict honor and integrity, of a friendly benevolent disposition and a most cheerful facetious companion amongst his friends, whom he never failed to delight with the effusions of his wit, humor and drollery, in which ac- quirements he had no equal. He founded the Tuesday Club, XXV of which he might be considered the life and soul, as it ex- pired with him, having never assembled after his death. Altho' his jokes are occasionally somewhat indelicate, and he frequently chants the pleasure of the bowl, no man ex- ceeded him in temperance and purity of morals. You will find him truly depicted by himself in the character of Loquacious Scribble, Esq'r. To this gentleman I brought a letter from his cousin Dr. R. Hamilton, Professor of Anat- omy and Botany in the University of Glasgow, whose lec- tures I had several years attended, to which letter on my arrival in America in 1753, I was indebted for a very kind friendly reception, and our intimacy gradually increased without the least interruption during his life. I was early invited as a visitor to the Tuesday Club, and soon afterwards elected a Long Standing member thereof, and am now, I be- lieve, the only survivor of that Institution, at whose merry meetings I often in my younger days, found much amuse- ment. Many years after Dr. Hamilton's death, I received this work as a present from his widow, who was a lady highly worthy of my esteem and regard. I cannot therefore obtain my own consent to part with in my lifetime,— the property, of what I consider as a sacred relick, or memorial of deceased friends. With very sincere regard, I am your friend and most obedient servant, U. Scott. "Dr. Alexander Hamilton was born in Scotland in 1 71 2. He came to America and settled in Annap- olis, Province of Maryland. He was a cousin of Dr. R. Hamilton, Professor of Anatomy and Bot- any in the University of Glasgow. He organized in 1745, with Jonas Green, Esq., the editor of the Maryland Gazette, the Tuesday Club, of Annapolis, Md., of which he was the Secretary and Orator, as well as the 'life and soul,' during its ten years of existence. xxvi He was the preceptor of Dr. Thomas Bond, of Calvert County, Md., who projected, incorporated and organized the Pennsylvania Hospital, Phila- delphia, which was opened in 1752. On May 29, 1747, he married Miss Margaret Dulany, daughter of the Hon. Daniel Dulany, of Annapolis, Md., 'a well accomplished and agreeable young lady with a handsome fortune.' Dr. Hamilton was a member of the Vestry of St. Ann's Protestant Episcopal Church, Annapolis, in the years 1749-51." On Tuesday last (May 11) in the morning, died at his house, in this city, Alexander Hamilton, M.D. aged 44 years. The death of this valuable and worthy gentleman is uni- versally and justly lamented. His medical abilities, various knowledge, strictness of integrity, simplicity of manners, and extensive benevolence, having deservedly gained him the respect and esteem of all ranks of men. No man, in his sphere, has left fewer enemies or more friends. — Mary- land Gazette, Annapolis, Thursday May 13, 1756. "Dr. Hamilton's Will was dated October 17, 1754 and probated on July 17, 1756. Margaret Hamilton, his widow, was made testatrix, and all the estate of the husband was left to her, except that should there be born a posthumous child, then the wife was to receive one-third of the estate and the child two-thirds. The witnesses to the Will were John Gordon and H. Cummings. These were the only items of the Will, which has been described as 'a model of brevity and directness.' " xxvii I I ITINERARIUM DIE MERCURII TRIGESSIMO MENSIS MAII INCHOATUM ANNO MDCCXLIV Annapolis, Wednesday, May ^oth.—l set out from Annapolis in Maryland, upon Wednesday the 30th of May at eleven o'clock in the morning; contrary winds and bad weather prevented my intended pas- sage over Chesapeak Bay; so taking the Patapscoe road, I proposed going by the way of Bohemia to Newtown upon Chester, a very circumflex course, but as the journey was intended only for health and recreation, I was indifferent whether I took the nearest or the farthest route, having likewise a de- sire to see that part of the country. I was in seem- ing bad order at my first setting out, being sus- picious that one of my horses was lame ; but he per- formed well, and beyond my expectation. I trav- elled but twenty-six miles this day; there was a cloudy sky, and an appearance of rain. Some miles from town I met Mr. H 1^ going to Annapolis. He returned with me to his own house, where I was well entertained and had one night's lodging and a country dinner. Mr. H 1,^ a gentleman of Barbadoes, with whom I expected to have the pleasure of travelling a good part of my intended journey, had left An- 1 Hart ; revisited by Hamilton on his return journey. 2 This gentleman, who is mentioned a number of times in the narrative, is probably Samuel Hasell, who was born in Barbados in 1691, came to Philadelphia in 1715, was mayor of the city in 1731, 1732 and 1740, and died there June 13, 1751. I napoHs a week or ten days before me, and had ap- pointed to meet me at Philadelphia. He went to Bohemia by water, and then took chaise over land to Newcastle and Wilmington, being forbid for cer- tain physical reasons to travel on horseback. This was a polite and facetious gentleman, and I was sorry that his tedious stay in some places put it out my power to tarry for him; so I was deprived of his conversation the far greatest part of the journey Mr. H 1 and I, after dinner, drank some punch, and conversed like a couple of virtuosos. His wife had no share in the conversation; he is blessed indeed with a silent woman; but her mute- ness is owing to a defect in her hearing, that with- out bawling out to her she cannot understand what is spoken, and therefore not knowing how to make pertinent replies, she chuses to hold her tongue. It is well I have thus accounted for it, else such a character in the sex would appear quite out of nature. At night I writ to Annapolis, and re- tired to bed at ten o'clock. Thursday, May ^ist.—l got up betimes this morn- ing, pour prendre le frais, as the French term it, and found it heavy and cloudy, portending rain. At nine o'clock I took my leave of Mr. H 1, his wife and sister, and took horse. A little before I reached Patapscoe ferry, I was overtaken by a certain captain of a tobacco ship, whose name I know not, nor did I inquire concern- ing it, lest he should think me impertinent. Patapscoe Ferry We crossed the ferry together at ten o'clock. He 2 J tijrwra/riiwly ^Jnn* M1>CC Xj^iV J^, ffu*9 ^t*t dji^MLa^(MujL^ trj^ /Uu^^ f^rtUL. Oticict ^^rn~tif=M^ talked inveterately against the clergy, and particu- larly the Maryland clerks of the holy cloth; but I soon found that he was a prejudiced person, for it seems he had been lately cheated by one of our parsons. Baltimore Town— Gunpowder Ferry— Joppa This man accompanied me to Baltimore Town,^ and after I parted with him I had a solitary jour- ney till I came within three miles of Gunpowder Ferry, where I met one Matthew Baker, a horse- jockey. Crossing the ferry I came to Joppa, a village pleasantly situated, and lying close upon the river; there I called at one Brown's, who keeps a good tavern in a large brick house. The landlord was ill with intermitting fevers, and understanding from some one there who knew me, that I professed physick, he asked my advice, which I gave him. Here I encountered Mr. D n, the minister of the parish, who (after we had despatched a bowl of sangaree) carried me to his house. There passed between him, his wife, and me some odd rambling conversation, which turned chiefly upon politicks. I heard him read with great patience some letters from his correspondents in England, written in a gazette style, which seemed to be an abridgement of the political history of the times and a dissection of the machinations of the French, in their late de- signs upon Great Britain. This reverend gentleman and his wife seemed to express their indignation, with some zeal, against certain of our St — sm — n^ 1 Baltimore Towne and Jones Towne were incorporated September 28 1 745 ; subsequently both were comprised in the city of Baltimore. ^ Statesmen. 3 and C rs* at Annapolis, who it seems had op- posed the interest of the clergy by attempting to re- duce the number of the Taxables. This brought the proverb in my mind, The shirt is nearest the skin. Touch a man in his private interest, and you immediately procure his ill will. Leaving Joppa I fell in company with one Cap- tain Waters and with Mr. D gs, a virtuoso in botany. He affected some knowledge in Natural Philosophy, but his learning that way was but super- ficial. Description of the Gensing He showed me a print or figure of the Gensing,^ which he told me was to be found in the rich bot- toms near Susquehanna. The plant is of one stem or stalk, and jointed. From each joint issues four small branches, at the extremity of each of these is a cinquefoil, or five leaves, somewhat oblong, notched and veined. Upon the top of the stem it bears a bunch of red berries, but I could not learn if it had any apparent flower, the colour of that flower, or at what season of the year it blossomed or bore fruit. I intended, however, to look for it upon the branches of Susquehanna, not that I im- agined it of any singular virtue, for I think it has really no more than what may be in the common liquorice root, mixed with an aromatick, or spicy drug, but I had a curiosity to see a thing which has been so famous. After parting with this company, I put up at one Tradaway's, about ten miles from Joppa. The road 1 Councillors. 2 Commonly called ginseng. 4 here is pretty hilly, stony, and full of a small gravel. I observed some stone, which I thought looked like limestone. Just as I dismounted at Tradaway's, I found a drunken Club dismissing. Most of them had got upon their horses, and were seated in an oblique situ- ation, deviating much from a perpendicular to the horizontal plane, a posture quite necessary for keep- ing the center of gravity within its proper base, for the support of the superstructure; hence we deduce the true physical reason why our heads overloaded with liquor become too ponderous for our heels. Their discourse was as oblique as their position : the only thing intelligible in it was oaths and God- damnes; the rest was an inarticulate sound like Rabelais' frozen words a-thawing, interlaced with hickupings and belchings. I was uneasy till they were gone, and my landlord, seeing me stare, made that trite apology, — That indeed he did not care to have such disorderly fellows come about his house ; he was always noted far and near for keeping a quiet house and entertaining only gentlemen or such like ; but these were country people, his neighbours, and it was not prudent to disoblige them upon slight occasions. "Alas, sir!" added he, "we that entertain travellers must strive to oblige everybody, for it is our daily bread." While he spoke thus our Bacchanalians finding no more rum in play, rid off helter-skelter, as if the devil had possessed them, every man sitting his horse in a seesaw manner like a bunch of rags tied upon the saddle. I found nothing particular or worth notice in my landlord's character or conversation, only as to his bodily make. He was a fat pursy man, and had large 5 bubbles like a woman. I supped upon fried chick- ens and bacon, and after supper the conversation turned upon poHticks, news, and the dreaded French war; but it was so very lumpish and heavy that it disposed me mightily to sleep. This learned com- pany consisted of the landlord, his overseer and miller, and another greasy-thumbed fellow, who, as I understood, professed physick, and particularly surgery in the drawing of teeth. He practised upon the housemaid, a dirty piece of lumber, who made such screaming and squawling as made me imagine there was murder going for- wards in the house. However, the artist got the tooth out at last, with a great clumsy pair of black- smith's forceps; and indeed it seemed to require such an instrument, for when he showed it to us it resembled a horsenail more than a tooth. The miller I found professed musick, and would have tuned his crowd^ to us, but unfortunately the two middle strings betwixt the bass and treble were broke. This man told us that he could play by the book. After having had my fill of this elegant company, I went to bed at ten o'clock. Friday, June ist.—Tht sun rose in a clear horizon, and the air in these highlands was for two hours in the morning very cool and refreshing. I break- fasted upon some dirty chocolate, but the best that the house could afford, and took horse about half an hour after six in the morning. For the first thir- teen miles the road seemed gravelly and hilly, and the land but indifferent. 1 The earliest known stringed instrument to be played with a bow. 6 Susquehanna Ferry When I came near Susquehanna Ferry I looked narrowly in the bottoms for the gensing, but could not discover it. The lower ferry of Susquehanna, which I crossed, is above a mile broad. It is kept by a little old man, whom I found at vittles with his wife and family upon a homely dish of fish, without any kind of sauce. They desired me to eat, but I told them I had no stomach. They had no cloth upon the table, and their mess was in a dirty, deep, wooden dish, which they evacuated with their hands, cramming down skins, scales, and all. They used neither knife, fork, spoon, plate, or napkin, because, I suppose, they had none to use. I looked upon this as a picture of that primitive simplicity practised by our forefathers, long before the mechanic arts had supplied them with instruments for the luxury and elegance of life. I drank some of their cider, which was very good, and crossed the ferry in company with a certain Scots-Irishman, by name Thomas Quiet. The land about Susquehanna is pretty high and woody, and the channel of the river rocky. Mr. Quiet rid a little scrub bay mare, which he said was sick and ailing, and could not carry him, and therefore he lighted every half mile and ran a couple of miles at a footman's pace, to "spell the poor beast" (as he termed it). He informed me he lived at Monocosy, and had been out three weeks in quest of his creatures (horses), four of which had strayed from his plantation. I condoled his loss, and asked him what his mare's distemper was, re- solving to prescribe for her, but all that I could get 7 out of him was that the poor silly beast had choaked herself in eating her oats; so I told him that if she was choaked she was past my art to recover. This fellow I observed had a particular down-hanging look, which made me suspect he was one of our New-light bigots. I guessed right, for he introduced a discourse concerning Whitefield,* and enlarged pretty much and with some warmth upon the doctrines of that apostle, speaking much in his praise. I took upon me, in a ludicrous manner, to impugn some of his doctrines, which by degrees put Mr. Quiet in a pas- sion. He told me flatly that I was damned without redemption. I replied that I thought his name and behaviour were very incongruous, and desired him to change it with all speed, for it was very improper that such an angry turbulent mortal as he should be called by the name of Thomas Quiet. Principio Iron Works In the height of this fool's passion, I overtook one Mr. B r, a proprietor in the iron works there, and, after mutual salutation, the topic of discourse turned from religious controversy to politicks; so putting on a little faster we left this inflamed bigot and his sick mare behind. This gentleman accom- panied me to Northeast, and gave me directions as to the road. I crossed Elk Ferry at three in the afternoon. One of the ferry-men, a young fellow, plied his 1 Rev. John \Vhitefield, bom 1714111 England; became the associate of John and Charles Wesley; made seven visits to America, beginning in 1738, and died at Newburyport, Massachusetts, September 30, 1770. 8 tongue much faster than his oar. He characterized some of the chief dwellers in the neighbourhood, particularly some young merchants, my country- men, for whom he had had the honour to stand pimp in their amours. He let me know that he under- stood some scraps of Latin, and repeated a few hex- ameter lines out of Lilly's Grammar. He told me of a clever fellow of his name, who had composed a book, for which he would give all the money he was master of to have the pleasure of reading it. I asked him who this namesake of his was. He re- plied that it was one Terence; and to be sure he must have been an arch dog, for he never knew one of the name but he was remarkable for his parts. Bohemia Thus entertained I got over the ferry, and rid to Bohemia,^ and, calling at the manor-house there, I found nobody at home. I met here a reverend parson, who was somewhat inquisitive as to where I came from, and the news, but I was not very communicative. I understood afterwards it was parson W e. Bohemia Ferry I crossed Bohemia Ferry, and lodged at the ferry house. The landlord's name I cannot remember, but he seemed to be a man of tolerable parts for one 1 Bohemia Manor is situated at the junction of the Elk and Bohemia Rivers. 9 in his station. Our conversation ran chiefly upon religion. He gave me a short account of the spirit of enthusiasm that had lately possessed the inhab- itants of the forests there, and informed me that it had been a common practice for companies of twenty or thirty hair-brained fanaticks to ride thro' the woods singing of psalms. I went to bed at nine at night; my landlord, his wife, daughters, and I lay all in one room. Saturday, June 2d. — In the morning there was a clear sky overhead, but a foggy horizon, and the wind at south, which presaging heat I set out very early. Sassafrax Ferry I TOOK the road to Newtown upon Chester Ferry, and crossed Sassafrax Ferry at seven o'clock in the morning, where I found a great concourse of people, at a fair. The roads here are exceeding good and even, but dusty in the summer, and deep in the win- ter season. The day proved very hot. I encoun- tered no company, and I went three or four miles out of my way. Newtown I REACHED Newtown at twelve o'clock, and put up at Dougherty's, a publick house there. I was scarce arrived, when I met several of my acquaintance. I dined with Dr. Anderson, and spent the rest of the 10 day in a sauntering manner. The Northern post arrived at night. I read the papers, but found noth- ing of consequence in them, so after some comical chat with my landlord, I went to bed at eleven o'clock at night. Sunday, June ^d. — I stayed all this day at New- town, and breakfasted with Th. Clay, where I met with one W b, a man of the law,— to appear- ance a civil, good-natured man, but set up for a kind of connoisseur in many things. I went to visit some friends, and dined at the tavern, where I was entertained by the tricks of a female baboon in the yard. This lady had more attendants and hangers-on at her levee than the best person (of quality as I may say) in town. She was very fond of the compliments and company of the men and boys, but expressed in her gestures an utter aver- sion at women and girls, especially negroes of that sex,— the lady herself being of a black complexion, yet she did not at all affect her country women. At night I was treated by Captain Binning,* of Boston, with a bowl of lemon punch. He gave me letters for his relations at Boston. While we put about the bowl a deal of comical discourse passed, in which the landlord, a man of a particular talent at telling comic stories, bore the chief part. Monday, June 4th. — The morning being clear and somewhat cool, I got up before five o'clock, and soon mounted horse. I had a solitary route to Bo- hemia, and went very much out of my way, by being too particular and nice in observing directions. 1 Probably Captain John Binney, of Boston ; died 1 758. II Sassafrax and Bohemia Ferries I reached Mr. Alexander's house on the manor at twelve o'clock. There I stayed and dined and drank tea with Miss C ey/ After some talk and laugh- ter I took my leave at five o'clock, designing 12 miles farther, to one Vanbibber's, that keeps a house upon the Newcastle road ; but instead of going there I went out of my way, and lay at one Hollings- worth's at the head of Elk. Head of Elk There is a great marsh upon the left hand of his house, which I passed in the night, thro' the middle of which runs Elk. The multitude of fireflies glit- tering in the dark upon the surface of this marsh makes it appear like a great plain scattered over with spangles. In this part of the country, I found they chiefly cultivated British grain,— as wheat, barley and oats. They raise, too, a great deal of flax, and, in every house here, the women have two or three spinning- wheels a-going. The roads up this way are toler- ably level, but in some places stony. After a light supper I went to bed at ten o'clock. Pennsylvania— Newcastle Tuesday, June ^th.—l took horse a little after five in the morning, and after a solitary ride thro' stony, 1 Miss Coursey ; revisited on Hamilton's return journey. 12 unequal road, where the country people stared at me like sheep when I inquired of them the way, I ar- rived at Newcastle, upon Delaware, at nine o'clock in ye morning and baited my horses at one Curtis's, at the sign of the Indian King, a good house of entertainment. This town stands upon stony ground, just upon the water, there being from thence a large prospect eastward, towards the Bay of Delaware and the Province of the Jerseys. The houses are chiefly brick, built after the Dutch model, the town having been originally founded and inhabited by the Dutch, when it belonged to New York government. It consists chiefly of one great street, which makes an elbow at right angles. A great many of the houses are old and crazy. There are in the town two pub- lic buildings; viz., a court-house and church. At Curtis's I met company going to Philadelphia, and was pleased at it, being myself an utter stranger to the roads. This company consisted of three men, — Thomas Howard, Timothy Smith, and Wil- liam Morison. I treated them with some lemon punch, and desired the favour of their company. They readily granted my request, and stayed some time for me, till I had eat breakfast. Smith, in his coat and hat, had the appearance of a Quaker, but his discourse was purged of thee's and thou's, tho' his delivery seemed to be solemn and slow-paced. Howard was a talkative man, abounding with words and profuse in compliments, which were gen- erally blunt, and came out in an awkward manner. He bestowed much panegyrick upon his own be- haviour and conduct. 13 Morison (who, I understood, had been at the Land Office in Annapolis, inquiring about a title he had to some land in Maryland) was a very rough- spun, forward, clownish blade, much addicted to swearing, at the same time desirous to pass for a gentleman, notwithstanding which ambition, the conscientiousness of his natural boorishness obliged him frequently to frame ill-timed apologies for his misbehaviour, which he termed frankness and free- ness. It was often,— "Damn me, gentlemen, ex- cuse me; I am a plain, honest fellow; all is right down plain-dealing, by God." He was much af- fronted with the landlady at Curtis's, who, seeing him in a greasy jacket and breeches, and a dirty worsted cap, and withal a heavy, forward, clownish air and behaviour, I suppose took him for some ploughman or carman, and so presented him with some scraps of cold veal for breakfast, he having declared that he could not drink "your damned washy tea." As soon as he saw his mess, he swore, — "Damn him, if it wa'n't out of respect to the gen- tleman in company" (meaning me) "he would throw her cold scraps out at the window and break her table all to pieces, should it cost him loo pounds for damages." Then, taking off his worsted nightcap, he pulled a linen one out of his pocket, and clapping it upon his head, — "Now," says he, "I 'm upon the borders of Pennsylvania and must look like a gen- tleman; t' other was good enough for Maryland, and damn my blood, if ever I come into that rascally Province again if I don't procure a leather jacket, that I may be in a trim to box the saucy Jacks there and not run the hazard of tearing my coat." This showed, by the bye, that he paid more regard to his 14 coat than his person, a remarkable instance of mod- esty and self-denyal. He then made a transition to poHticks, and damned the late Sir R W * for a rascal. We asked him his reasons for cursing Sir R , but he would give us no other but this, — that he was certainly informed by some very good gentlemen who understood the thing right well, that the said Sir R was a damned rogue, and at the conclu- sion of each rodomontade he told us that tho' he seemed to be but a plain, homely fellow, yet he would have us know that he was able to afford better than many that went finer ; he had good linen in his bags, a pair of silver buckles, silver clasps, and gold sleeve buttons, two Holland shirts and some neat nightcaps, and that his little woman at home drank tea twice a day, and he himself lived very well and expected to live better so soon as that old rogue B 1 died, and he could secure a title to his land. The chief topic of conversation among these three Pennsylvanian dons upon the road, was the insig- nificancy of the neighbouring Province of Mary- land when compared to that of Pennsylvania. They laid out all the advantages of the latter which their bungling judgment could suggest, and displayed all the imperfections and disadvantages of the first. They enlarged upon the immorality, drunkenness, rudeness, and immoderate swearing, so much prac- tised in Maryland, and added that no such vices were to be found in Pennsylvania. I heard this and contradicted it not, because I knew that the first part of the proposition was pretty true. ' Sir Robert Walpole, prime minister of England. 15 They next fell upon the goodness of the soil, as far more productive of pasturage and grain. I was silent here likewise, because the first proposi- tion was true, but as to the other relating to grain I doubted the truth of it; but what appeared most comical in their criticisms was their making a merit of the stoniness of the roads. "One may ride," says Howard, "fifty miles in Maryland and not see as many stones upon the roads as in fifty paces of road in Pennsylvania." This I knew to be false, but as I thought there was no advantage in stony roads, I even let them take the honour of it to them- selves, and did not contradict them. At Newcastle, I heard news of Mr. H 1,^ my intended fellow traveller. They told me he was at Wilmington upon Cristin River. Cristin Ferry— Wilmington — Brandywine We crossed that ferry at twelve o'clock, and saw Wilmington about a mile to the left hand. It is about the largeness of Annapolis, but seemingly more compactly built ; the houses all brick. We rid seven miles farther to one Foord's, passing over a toll bridge in bad repair, at a place called Brandy- wine. At Foord's we dined and baited our horses. There one Usher, a clergyman, joined our company, a man seemingly of good natural parts and civil be- haviour, but not overlearned for the cloth. While dinner was getting ready a certain Philadelphian merchant called on Mr. Howard and with him we had a dish of swearing and loud talking. ^ Samuel Hasell. (See previous note.) i6 After dinner we fell upon politicks, and the ex- pected French war naturally came in, whence arose a learned dispute in company, which was about set- tling the meaning of the two words declaration and proclamation. Mr. Smith asserted that a procla- mation of war was an improper phrase, and that it ought to be a declaration of war; and on the other hand a proclamation of peace. Mr. Morrison af- firmed with a bloody oath that there might be such a thing as a proclamation of a declaration, and swore heartily that he knew it to be true both by experience and hearsay. They grew very loud upon it as they put about the bowl, and I retired into a corner of the room to laugh a little, handkerchief fashion, pretending to be busied in blowing my nose; so I slurred a laugh with nose-blowing .... At last the parson determined all by a learned definition, to this purpose, that a proclamation was a publication of anything by authority and a declaration only a simple declaring of anything without any authority at all, but the bare assertion of a certain fact, as if I should declare that such a one was drunk at such a time, or that such a person swore so and so. This dispute ended, we took our horses and rid moderately, it being excessive hot. I observed the common style of salutation upon the road here was How d'ye? and How is'tf The people all along the road were making of hay, which being green and piled up in rucks, cast a very sweet and agreeable smell. There are here as fine meadows and pasture grounds as any ever I saw in England. The country here is not hilly, nor are the woods very tall or thick. The people in general f ol- 17 low farming and have very neat brick dwelling- houses upon their farms. Chester We passed thro' Chester at seven o'clock at night, where we left Morison, Smith, and Howard; and the parson and I jogged on, intending to reach Derby, a town about nine or ten miles from Chester. Chester is a pretty neat and large village. Built chiefly of brick, pleasantly situated upon a small river of the same name that discharges itself into Delaware, about half a mile below where the village stands. Over this river is a wooden bridge, built with large rafters and planks in form of an arch. The State-house is a pretty enough building; this put me in mind of Chelsea near London, which it resembles for neatness, but is not near so large. Derby The parson and I arrived at Derby, our resting- place, at half an hour after eight at night. This village stands in a bottom and partly upon the as- cent of a hill, which makes it have a dull, melan- choly appearance. We put up at a publick house kept by one Thomas, where the landlady looked after everything herself, the landlord being drunk as a lord. The liquor had a very strange effect upon him, having deprived him of the use of his tongue. He sat motionless in a corner, smoaking his pipe, and would have made a pretty good figure upon arras. i8 We were entertained with an elegant dispute be- tween a young Quaker and the boatswain of a pri- vateer, concerning the lawfulness of using arms against an enemy. The Quaker thee'd and thou'd it thro' the nose to perfection, and the privateer's boatswain swore just like the boatswain of a pri- vateer, but they were so far from settling the point that the Quaker had almost acted contrary to his principles, clenching his fist at his antagonist to strike him for bidding God damn him. At nine Mr. Usher and I went to bed. Skuylkill Ferry Wednesday, June 6th.— We mounted horse at five in the morning, crossed Skuylkill Ferry at six, and in half an hour more put up our horses at one Cock- burn's at the sign of the Three Tons in Chestnut Street. Philadelphia The country round the city of Philadelphia is level and pleasant, having a prospect of the large river of Delaware and the Province of East Jersey upon the other side. You have an agreeable view of this river for most of the way betwixt Philadel- phia and Newcastle. The plan or platform of the city lies betwixt the two rivers of Delaware and Skuylkill, the streets being layed out in rectangular squares, which makes a regular, uniform plan; but upon that account altogether destitute of variety. 19 At my entering the city I observed the regularity of the streets, but at the same time the majority of the houses mean and low, and much decayed; the streets in general not paved, very dirty and ob- structed with rubbish and lumber, but their fre- quent building excuses that. The State-house, As- sembly house,^ the great church ^ in Second street, and Whitefield's Church,^ are good buildings. I observed several comical, grotesque Phizzes in the inn where I put up, which would have afforded variety of hints for a painter of Hogarth's turn. They talked there upon all subjects, — politicks, re- ligion, and trade,— some tolerably well, but most of them ignorantly. I discovered two or three chaps very inquisitive, asking my boy who I was, whence come, and whither bound. I was shaved by a little finical, humpbacked old barber, who kept dancing round me and talking all the time of the operation, and yet did his job lightly and to a hair. He abounded in compliments, and was a very civil fellow in his way. He told me he had been a journeyman to the business for forty odd years, notwithstanding which he understood how to trim gentlemen as well (thank God) as the best masters, and despaired not of preferment be- fore he died. I delivered my letters, went to dine with Collector Alexander, and visited several people in town. In the afternoon I went to the coffee-house, where I 1 The State House and the Assembly House were at that time one and the same building ; now called Independence Hall, where the Liberty Bell is kept. 2 The Great Church is the First Christ Church, situated on the west side of Second Street, above Market Street. ^ VVhitefield Church. The building was erected in 1740, situated on Fourth Street, below Mulberry (now Arch) Street. 20 STATE HOUSE AND ASSEMBLY HOUSE Philadelphia. was introduced by Dr. Thomas Bond^ to several gentlemen of the place, where the ceremony of shaking of hands, an old custom peculiar to the English, was performed with great gravity, and the usual compliments. I took private lodgings at Mrs. Cume's in Chestnut Street. Thursday, June ph.—l remarked one instance of in- dustry as soon as I got up and looked out at my cham- ber window, and that was the shops open at five in the morning. I breakfasted with Mrs. Cume, and dined by invitation with Dr. Thomas Bond, where after some talk upon physical matters he showed me some pretty good anatomical preparations of the muscles and blood-vessels injected with wax. After dinner Mr. V bles,^ a Barbadian gentle- man, came in, who, when we casually had mentioned the freemasons, began to rail bitterly against that society, as an impudent, assuming, and vain cabal, pretending to be wiser than all mankind besides, an imperium in imperio, and therefore justly to be dis- couraged and suppressed, as they had lately been in some foreign countries. Tho' I am no freemason myself, I could not agree with this gentleman, for I abhor all tyrannical and arbitrary notions. I be- lieve the freemasons to be an innocent and harmless society that have in their constitution nothing mys- terious or beyond the verge of common human un- derstanding, and their secret, which has made such a noise, I imagine is just no secret at all. In the evening at the coffee-house, I met Mr. H 1, and inquiring how he did and how he had 1 Dr. Thomas Bond, an eminent physician and charter member of the American Philosophical Society, founded in 1744. 2 Probably Venables. 21 fared on his way, he repHed as to health he was pretty well, but he had almost been devoured with bugs and other vermin, and had met with mean, low company, which had made him very uneasy. He added that he had heard good news from Bar- badoes concerning his friends there, — from one, who he imagined called himself Captain Scrotum, a strange name indeed, but this gentleman had al- ways some comical turn in his discourse. I parted with him, and went to the tavern with Mr. Currie and some Scots gentlemen, where we spent the night agreeably, and went home sober at eleven o'clock. Friday, June 8th.— 1 read Montaigne's Essays in the forenoon, which is a strange medley of sub- jects, and particularly entertaining. I dined at a tavern with a very mixed company of different nations and religions. There were Scots, English, Dutch, Germans, and Irish; there were Roman Catholicks, Churchmen, Presbyterians, Quakers, Newlightmen, Methodists, Seventhday- men, Moravians, Anabaptists, and one Jew. The whole company consisted of twenty-five, planted round an oblong table, in a great hall well stocked with flies. The company divided into committees in conver- sation ; the prevailing topick was politicks, and con- jectures of a French war. A knot of Quakers there talked only about selling of flour and the low price it bore ; they touched a little upon religion, and high words arose among some of the sectaries, but their blood was not hot enough to quarrel, or, to speak in the canting phrase, their zeal wanted fervency. 22 A gentleman that sat next me proposed a number of questions concerning Maryland, understanding I had come from thence. In my replies I was re- served, pretending to know little of the matter, as being a person whose business did not He in the way of history and politicks. In the afternoon I went to see some ships that lay in the river. Among the rest were three vessels a-fitting out for privateers,— a ship, a sloop, and a schooner. The ship was a large vessel, very high and full-rigged; one Captain Mackey intended to command her upon the cruise. At six o'clock I went to the coffee-house and drank a dish of coffee with Mr. H 1. After staying there an hour or two, I was intro- duced by Dr. Phineas Bond^ into the Governour's Club, a society of gentlemen that meet at a tavern every night, and converse on various subjects. The Governour gives them his presence once a week, which is generally upon Wednesday, so that I did not see him there. Our conversation was enter- taining ; the subject was the English poets and some of the foreign writers, particularly Cervantes, au- thor of Don Quixote, whom we loaded with eulo- giums due to his character. At eleven o'clock I left this club and went to my lodging. Saturday, June gth.—This morning there fell a light rain, which proved very refreshing, the weather having been very hot and dry for several days. The heat in this city is excessive, the sun's rays 1 Dr. Phineas Bond, a distinguished physician, charter member of the American Philosophical Society, and especially interested in natural phil- osophy. 23 being reflected with such power from the brick houses, and from the street pavement, which is brick; the people commonly use awnings of painted cloth or duck over their shop doors and windows, and at sunset throw bucketsful of water upon the pavement, which gives a sensible cool. They are stocked with plenty of excellent water in this city, there being a pump at almost every fifty paces' dis- tance. There are a great number of balconies to their houses, where sometimes the men sit in a cool habit and smoke. The market in this city is perhaps the largest in North America. It is kept twice a week, upon Wednesdays and Saturdays. The street where it stands, called Market Street, is large and spacious, composed of the best houses in the city. They have but one publick clock here, which strikes the hour, but has neither index nor dial- plate. It is strange they should want such an or- nament and conveniency in so large a place, but the chief part of the community consisting of Quakers they would seem to shun ornament in their publick edifices as well as in their apparel or dress. The Quakers here have two large meetings;^ the Church of England one great church in Second Street, and another built for Whitefield, in which one Tennent, a fanatic, now preaches ; the Romans one chapel; the Anabaptists one or two meetings, and the Presbyterians two. The Quakers are the richest and the people of greatest interest in this government; of them their 1 One of these was the Quaker Meeting House, built in 1689, on Front Street. 24 'i\^7^Z^<^-t^, pV HiU^ ^^iJ2^ ^.c^ H^Ji^ QjCxA^^ Urif&^ y/w^cX Jltyck. tii/r^, YT^uucL PCnAe^ ■^'U-'A^-vutj il^»*/^ju» luiU^kuf C-^^^ p^tt-y^ drYTLTrut^rv^ Canr^^^i^^tZ^i^ ^/^^^^^iL^j-vaf Ur '■^■CiAA-(r(A/^, jLo-y^^^.^^ Soi- Jl^L^iSk^^^ enffi^^-&^r^ c^/Lu^^uaJU^ ^ cU^n^c^ (rr 'yhAA^'JL, j/ket^ 0^JC^_ /^c^ /2<5 tft^ ^k^rUUxi' 0>^ynA,i^y}^Ji^>^ ^try- ff^^pvrs^'/ ^^-^sWv^ 0>-^^r-e£(Xj^^ Im^^^iiJtc^^^ ud^/mtui^ f^f^cre^fi^ ^t^K^e^, a '?naA^^^=^ oiki^ OyJ^i^i^ ^^iJir^^f£^ k &€^0t^ TfuM^S^^ ^yJlJ*9 Co^fo^yMj^ / '^^^ fv^^ (?t^ltJ^/^^}<^y^ ^ 3^ // i^^^il/^^^ic^ /^-(Tjc, ^u-rvcL^ cx^^^^A^ eo*t^^i'^-^'^^ // Ufirn 4leJ^ 0k^v to Jii^ 'h^^^ ^urmnoU^ Jt jU^CJi^ ynaytuj {yf^Lvs fiu^, ^^.(Hfr Ptiz^i, nii^^l^ 'K&ton (jH*^, Vta/J'c^ yv-^A^. a a,/>^^ ^yn^^t^^ finroM^^ .f^^cJ2L ^c-oUt/h 'yv-CtrO (X^^^-*^^^ -JiaC^tv^.^ . ^iUryS ffue-yW £^0.^ ^ ^ fx^t lyur^ /fc^ kxA- yv^cx£i^F^ lU^c^-tthi,^ yv't:^k^^ r^yrrt&m^^oari/y^ / fixA/M (J^ l/kiL. iurv JK^ jUr /x'-m^-'fc^, 6{^^v3-f>r^^^^^o nh^ ^ ^!^^' f-r^y ^IjCi/w, dal u Lja/riiei?, „JuS~ %v-crm^j-f CSjiy^y^,lAr<}^^[iAjiL'ij!^^ fy\^y^^'jfu4 -yve^r^^ hr^^ ^n^e*^ a^'^'^^i^^/^'^L^ctv^^^t^ ^-6e>-tJL [^^LS Ol^S' ^.MU^, Cka-^ ^ fj%L^£j, ^^Sjl^Q^^^^ (^vt^ ocetfc^:,^ li^i^ l*^VOy\. ^lAytJ^ /( (^A^lta^ UMj Q^a^ (kM- kvc{Mi^.£iL^ ffwM^^ "j^-e^, f.f^ .J(}^ r^^US^/^ ^ f^^ c CQ u •o E •5 (A eg 05 vo* 'co ca :2 > •O u o u u 3 X) 1/1 CO 1/3 3 O j= w ■•-« C CO 3 u g •a •a J3 V o 00 c o •a « u 3 o c CO 2 V t/i O V Cr 0) cr u cr a ~' o o o ^ to 5> o-- 3- ^ o u u A) U a. :73 u cr O oo ^ to a. ru ^ a O/ iQ a o cr o a to a Cr — . , -1 a a to a rr f c o a a u a 00 Cr u u . a c u C o a 5 ' a CVi C o X iQ O > s o o - a 3 to to to ^ ^ - 1" a ft tv a cr u <-« u u happened. The King had been his lodger when he was in Holland, and thereby he had an opportunity to ingratiate himself, and procure the royal favour. This manor is divided into two equal halves by Hud- son's River, and the city of Albany stands in the middle of it. This city pays him a good yearly rent for the liberty of cutting their firewood. The Patroon is a young man, of a good mien and presence. He is a bachelor, nor can his friends per- suade him to marry. By paying too much homage to Bacchus, he has acquired a hypochondriac habit. He has a great number of tenants upon his manor, and he told me himself that he could muster 600 men fit to bear arms. Mr. M s and I dined at his house, and were handsomely entertained with good viands and wine. After dinner he showed us his garden and parks, and Mr. M s got into one of his long harangues of farming and improvement of ground. At four o'clock M s and I returned to town, where M s having a general acquaintance (for he had practised physick ten years in the city, and was likewise the Church of England minister there), he introduced me into about twenty or thirty houses, where I went thro' the farce of kissing most of the women, a manner of salutation which is expected (as M s told me) from strangers coming there. I told him it was very well, if he led the way I should follow, which he did with clerical gravity. This might almost pass for a penance, for the generality of the women here, both old and young, are remark- ably ugly. At night we went to the island, where we supped. While we were at supper we smelt something very 75 strong like burnt oatmeal, which they told me was an animal called a skunk, the urine of which could be smelt at a great distance, something of the nature of the polecat, but not quite so disagreeable. Wednesday, June 2yth. — l went this morning with the Patroon's brother, Stephen Ranslaer,^ to see the Cohoos, a great fall of water twelve miles above Albany. Cohoos The water falls over a rock almost perpendicular, eighty feet high and nine hundred feet broad, and the noise of it is easily heard at four miles' distance; but in the spring of the year, when the ice breaks, it is heard like great guns all the way at Albany, There is a fine mist scattered about where it falls, for above half a mile below it, upon which when the sun shines opposite appears a pretty rainbow. Near the fall the noise is so great that you cannot discern a man's voice, unless he hollows pretty loud. Below the fall the river is very narrow and very deep, running in a rocky channel. There is a bank of solid rock, about 300 or 400 feet wide, as smooth and level as a table. In this journey we met a Mohook Indian and his family going a-hunting. His name was Solomon. He had a squaw with him, over whom he seemed to have an absolute authority. We travelled for two miles thro' impenetrable woods, this Indian being 1 Stephen Van Rensselaer, second son of Killian Van Rensselaer; be- came fourth patroon of Rensselaerwyck on the death of his brother Jere- miah, in 1745. 76 our guide, and when we came to the banks of the river near the falls we were obliged to leave our horses and descend frightful precipices. One might walk across the river on foot upon the top of the rock whence the water falls, was it not for fear of being carried down by the force of the water, and Solomon told us that the Indians sometimes run across it when the water is low. Mohocks Town We rid at a pretty hard rate fifteen or sixteen miles farther to the Mohooks town,^ standing upon the same river. In it there are several wooden and brick houses, built after the Dutch fashion, and some Indian wigwams or huts, with a church where one Barclay ^ preaches to a congregation of Indians in their own language, for the bulk of the Mohooks up this way are Christians. Returning from here we dined at Col. Skuyler's,^ about four o'clock in the afternoon, who is natural- ized among the Indians, can speak several of their languages, and has lived for years among them. We spent part of the evening at the Patroon's, and going to town at night I went to the tavern with Mr. Livingston, a man of estate and interest there, where we had a mixed conversation. 1 This is the present Schenectady. 2 Rev. Henry Barclay, graduate of Yale ; missionary to the Mohawks 1734-1746; thereafter rector of Trinity Church, New York. 3 Col. Peter Schuyler, born 1710; military commander in the French Wars; died 1762. His house is still standing and in possession of the Schuyler family. 77 Schenectady Thursday, June 28th.— Early this morning I took horse, and went in company with one ColHns,^ a sur- veyor here, to a village called Schenectady, about sixteen miles from Albany, and pleasantly situated upon the Mohook River. It is a trading village, the people carrying on a traffick with the Indians; their chief commodities, — wampum, knives, needles, and other such pedlery ware. This village is pretty near as large as Al- bany, and consists chiefly of brick houses, built upon a pleasant plain, enclosed all round at about a mile's distance, with thick pine woods. These woods form a copse above your head, almost all the way betwixt Albany and Schenectady, and you ride over a plain, level, sandy road till, coming out of the covert of the woods, all at once the village strikes surprisingly your eye, which I can compare to noth- ing but the curtain rising in a play and displaying a beautiful scene. We returned to M s's island, from whence between twelve and one o'clock I went to Albany in a canoe, the day being somewhat sultry, tho' in this latitude the heats are tolerable to what they are two or three degrees to the southward, the mornings and evenings all summer long being cool and pleas- ant, but often, about noon and for three hours after, the sun is very hot, I went to see the school in this city, in which are about 200 scholars, boys and girls. I dined at the Patroon's; after dinner Mr. Shakesburrough, sur- geon to the fort, came in, who by his conversation 1 Edward Collins, Esq. 78 seemed to have as little of the quack in him as any half-hewn doctor ever I had met with. The doctors in Albany are mostly Dutch, all empirics, having no knowledge or learning but what they have acquired by bare experience. They study chiefly the virtues of herbs, and the woods there furnish their shops with all the pharmacy they use, A great many of them take the care of a family for the value of a Dutch dollar a year, which makes the practice of physick a mean thing, and unworthy of the appli- cation of a gentleman. The doctors here are all barbers. This afternoon I went a-visiting with M s, and had the other kissing bout to go thro'. We went at night to Stephen Ranslaer's, where we supped. Friday, June 2pth. —Aiter breakfast I walked out with M s, and visited some more old women, where I had occasion to prescribe and enter into a dispute with a Dutch doctor. Mr. M s's ges- ture in common discourse often afforded me subject of speculation. At every the least trifling expres- sion and common sentence in discourse, he would shrug up his shoulders, and stare one in the face as if he had uttered some very wonderful thing, and he would do the same while another person spoke, tho' he expressed nothing but common chat. By this means it was hard to tell when anything struck his fancy, for by this odd habit he had contracted in his gesture, everything seemed alike to raise his admiration. About this time one Kuyler,* the mayor of the city, was suspected of trading with 1 Cornelius Cuyler, mayor of Albany 1 742-1 746. 79 the Canada Indians, and selling powder to them. The people in town spoke pretty openly of it, and the thing coming to Governour Clinton's ears, he made him give security for his appearance at the General Court, to have the affair tried and canvassed. I went before dinner with M s, and saw the inside of the Town-house.^ The great hall where the court sits is about forty feet long and thirty broad. This is a clumsy, heavy building, both with- out and within. We went next and viewed the workmen putting up new palisading or stoccadoes to fortify the town, and at ten o'clock we walked to the island, and returned to town again at twelve. Mr. M s and I dined upon cold gammon at one Stevenson's, a Scots gentleman of some credit there. We drank tea at Steph. Ranslaer's, and supped at widow Skuyler's, where the conversation turned upon the Moravian enthusiasts and their doctrines. Saturday, June ^oth.— In the morning I went with M s to make some more visits, of which I was now almost tired. Among others we went to see Dr. Rosaboom,^ one of the Dutch medicasters of the place, a man of considerable practice in administer- ing physick and shaving. He had a very volum- inous Dutch Herbalist lying on the table before him, being almost a load for a London porter. The sight of this made me sick, especially when I understood it was writ in High Dutch. I imagined the con- tents of it were very weighty and ponderous, as well 1 The Town-house formerly stood at the corner of the present Broadway and Hudson Avenue; this is the building in which the first American Con- gress was held in 1754. 2 Dr. Roseboom, Albany physician. 80 as the book itself. It was writ by one Rumpertus Dodonceus. From this book Rosaboom had ex- tracted all his learning in physick, and he could quote no other author but the great infallible Rum- pertus, as he styled him. His discourse to us tended very much to self-commendation, being an historical account of cases in surgery, where he had had sur- prising success. At ten o'clock M s and I went to the island, where we dined, and M s, being hot with walk- ing, went to drink his cool water as usual, which brought an ague upon him, and he was obliged to go to bed. In the meantime the old woman and I conversed for half an hour about a rural life and good husbandry. At three o'clock I walked abroad to view the island, and sitting under a willow near the water, I was invited to sleep, but scarce had I enjoyed half an hour's repose, when I was waked by a cow that was eating up my handkerchief, which I had put under my head. I pursued her for some time before I recovered it, when I suppose the snuff in it made her disgorge, but it was prettily pinked all over with holes. I went to the house and drank tea and then walked to town with M s. On the way we met an old man who goes by the name of Scots Willie. He had been a soldier in the garrison, but was now dis- charged as an invalid. He told us he had been at the battle of Killiecrankie in Scotland, upon the side where Lord Dundee fought, and that he saw him fall in the battle. We supped by invitation at the tavern with some of the chief men in the city, it being muster day, and a treat given by the officers of the fort to the muster 8i masters. There were Messrs. Kuyler * the Mayor, Tansbrook ^ the Recorder, Holland the Sheriff,^ Sur- veyor Collins/ Captain Blood/ Captain Haylin ® of the Fort, and several others. The conversation was rude and clamorous, but the viands and wine were good. We had news of the French having taken another small fort, besides Cansoe. I walked with M s to ye island at ten at night. Sunday, July ist.—AX. six o'clock this morning a sharp thunder gust came up with a heavy rain. I breakfasted at the island, and went to town with M s and his wife. At ten o'clock we went to the English Church,^ where was the meanest congre- gation ever I beheld, there not being above fifteen or twenty in church, besides the soldiers of the fort, who sat in a gallery. M s preached and gave us an indifferent good discourse against worldly riches, the text being, "It is easier for a cable [camel] to pass thro' the eye of a needle than for a rich man to enter the kingdom of heaven." This discourse, he told me, was calculated for the natural vice of that people, which was avarice, and particu- larly for Mr. Livingston,® a rich but very covetous man in town, who valued himself much for his riches. But unfortunately Livingston did not come to church to hear his reproof. 1 Cornelius Cuyler. (See previous note.) 2 Dirck Tenbroeck, later mayor of Albany. 3 Henry Holland, three times sheriff of Albany County. * Edward Collins. 5 Captain Blood, nephew of Thomas Blood. * Perhaps William Haylingh. The English Church, known as Saint Peter's Episcopal Church, erected 1 714; the present church stands on the site of the old one, on the comer of Church and Lodge Streets. * Philip Livingston, second patroon of Livingston Manor. 82 X o 06 D X o (/) K U h u h CO o § •o S 4-1 w u 1) u CO 1) o CO I. - it u CV] s o cr a a u u a. H o S o •< s a n a X U » G X o CV} H H cr 5- W I At twelve o'clock another thunder gust came up. We dined at Stephen Ranslaer's/ and made several visits in the afternoon. Among the rest we went to see Captain Blood, of the fort. He is nephew to the famous Blood ^ that stole the Crown. This man is a downright old soldier, having in his manner an agreeable mixture of roughness and civility. He ex- pressed a strong regard for the memory of the Duke of Berwick,^ of whose death, when he heard, he could not forbear crying, for tho' he was an enemy to his master, the King of England, yet was he a brave and a generous man, for when he and several other English officers were taken pris- oners in battle by the French, the duke generously gave them liberty upon their parole, and lent or indeed gave them ten pistoles apiece to furnish their pockets when they were quite bare of money. This spirit of gratitude in the old man pleased me very much, and made me conceive a good opinion of him, gratitude being a certain criterion or mark of a generous mind. After visiting him we went to Captain Haylin's house, who received us very civilly, but not in such a polite manner as Captain Blood. He told us he had been a dragoon at the siege of Namur in King William's time and was then twenty years old, which makes him an older man than Blood, whose first campaign was the battle of Almanza. I observed the streets of this city to be most 1 Stephen Van Rensselaer. 2 In 1671 Thomas Blood, an Irishman, attempted to steal the Crown Jewels from the Tower. Walter Scott introduces him into Peveril of the Peak. 3 James Fitzjames, illegitimate son of James Duke of York, born 1670, created Duke of Berwick 1687, later commander-in-chief of the forces of King James II. 83 crowded upon Sunday evening, especially with women. We supped at Stephen Ranslaer's. Monday, July 2d.— I now began to be quite tired of this place, where there was no variety or choice, either of company or conversation, and one's ears perpetually invaded and molested with volleys of rough-sounding Dutch, which is the language most in use here. I therefore spoke to one WendalV master of a sloop, which was to sail this evening for York, and took my passage in him. I laid in a stock of provisions for the voyage at one Miller's, a sergeant of the fort, who keeps the tavern, and where my landlady, happening to be a Scotswoman, was very civil and obliging to me for country's sake. She made me a present of a dried tongue. As I talked with her a certain ragged fellow came bluntly up, and took me by the hand, naming me. "Sir," says he, "there is a gentleman here in town who says he knows you, and has been in your garden at Annapolis in Maryland, when he lived with one Mr. Dulany^ there. He swears by G — d he would be glad to see you to talk a little or so, as it were, about friends and acquaintances there. He bid me tell you so, and damme, says I, if I don't, so I hope the gentleman won't be offended." I told him no, there was no offence, but bid him give my service to my friend, and tell him I was now in a hurry, and could not wait upon him, but some other time would do as well. So, giving this orator a dram, I went and drank half a pint with the Captains Blood and Haylin, and walked to the island, where I dined. 1 Probably John Hermanus Wendel. 2 Daniel Dulany, the elder, died 1753; a very eminent citizen of Mary- land; Hamilton later married his daughter Mary. 84 In the afternoon I read Rollin's Belles Lettres. The day was hazy and threatened rain very much. At half an hour after two o'clock I saw Wendall's sloop falling down the river, with the tide, and they having given me the signal of a gun, which was agreed upon, they sent their canoe for me. At three o'clock I took my leave of M s and his wife, thanking them for all their civilities and the hospitality I had met with in their house. I fol- lowed the sloop for near two miles in the canoe, before I overtook her, and went on board half an hour after three. We had scarce been half an hour under sail after I came on board when we ran aground upon some shoals about a mile above the oversleigh ^ and dropt anchor, till after six, the tide rising, we were afloat again, and went down, with the windN.byE., — rainy. There was a negro fellow on board, who told me he was a piece of a fiddler, and played some scrap- ing tunes to one Wilson, who had come on board of us in a canoe. This was an impudent fellow. He accosted me with "How do you, countryman?" at first sight, and told me he was a Scotsman, but I soon found by his howl in singing the Black Jock to the negro fiddle that he was a genuine Teague. He told me some clever lies, and claimed kin to Arn- caple in Scotland. He said he had an estate of houses by heritage in Glasgow, swore he was born a gentleman for five generations, and never intended for the plough; therefore he had come to push his fortune in these parts. At seven o'clock we reached the oversleigh, and there ran aground again. In the meantime a Dutch 1 A bar to navigation. 85 gentleman, one Volckert Douw, came on board a passenger, and I flattered myself I should not be quite alone, but enjoy some conversation; but I was mistaken, for the devil a word but Dutch was ban- died about betwixt the sailors and him, and in gen- eral there was such a medley of Dutch and English as would have tired a horse. We heaved out our anchor, and got oft the shoal at half an hour after seven, so got clear of the oversleigh, the only trouble- some part in the whole voyage. We sailed four miles below it, the wind northeast and the night very rainy and dark. We dropt anchor at nine at night and went to bed. The city of Albany lies on the west side of Hud- son's River upon a rising hill about thirty or forty miles below where the river comes out of the lake, and 1 60 miles above New York. The hill whereon it stands faces the southeast. The city consists of three pretty compact streets, two of which run paral- lel to the river, and are pretty broad, and the third cuts the other two at right angles, running up to- wards the fort, which is a square stone building, about 200 feet square, with a bastion at each corner, each bastion mounting eight or ten great guns, most of them thirty-two pounders. In the fort are two large brick houses facing each other, where there is lodging for the soldiers. There are three market houses in this city, and three public edifices, upon two of which are cupolas or spires, viz., upon the Townhouse and the Dutch church. The English church is a great, heavy stone building without any steeple, standing just below the fort. The greatest length of the streets is half a mile. 86 fe- l^-^^ ^ 4lyL^2^Zjr o^^foc (j/re,(iyf ^.iA^nSj ^l^tur^/f^cr^ fCtJU^ '2 2_ O^ft^i:^, //^ft^ fJ^Au, fk^frrri fel. ImA^ It^ A-y' ^^"^ '^^'^ ikiU^ Ji^^ Cv. p.c>n^ ^o^/^ ^idnJUA^\ ^hjn^JJx^ CLjuu^y ft^ije^S^^ 5^m.S ^^^VUL. 'yv^^-^tAMt&uyy^ fvtiA //t^^ OtX5.-i and for that one quality is esteemed among these dons. The staple of New York is bread flour and skins. It is a very rich place, but it is not so cheap living here as at Philadelphia. They have very bad water in the city, most of it being hard and brackish. Ever since the negro conspiracy, certain people have been appointed to sell water in the streets, which they carry on a sledge in great casks and bring it from the best springs about the city, for it was when the negroes went for tea water that they held their cabals and consultations, and therefore they have a law now that no negro shall be seen upon the streets without a lanthorn after dark. In this city are a mayor, recorder, aldermen, and common council. The government is under the English law, but the chief places are possessed by Dutchmen, they composing the best part of the House of Assembly. The Dutch were the first set- tlers of this Province, which is very large and ex- tensive, the States of Holland having purchased the country of one Hudson, who pretended first to have discovered it, but they at last exchanged it with the English for Saranam, and ever since there have been a great number of Dutch here, tho' now their language and customs begin pretty much to wear out, and would very soon die were it not for a parcel of Dutch domines here, who, in the education of their children, endeavour to preserve the Dutch customs as much as possible. There is as much jarring here betwixt the powers of the Legislature as in any of the other American Provinces. They have a diversion here very common, which is the barbecuing of a turtle, to which sport the 107 chief gentry in town commonly go once or twice a week. Tiiere are a great many handsome women in this city. They appear much more in pubhc than at Philadelphia. It is customary here to ride thro' the street in light chairs. When the ladies walk the streets in the daytime they commonly use umbrellas, prettily adorned with feathers and painted. There are two coffee-houses in this city, and the northern and southern posts go and come here once a week. I was tired of nothing here but their ex- cessive drinking, for in this place you may have the best of company and conversation as well as at Phil- adelphia. York Ferry— Long Island— Jamaica Tuesday July /of/z.— Early in the morning we got up, and after preparing all our baggage, Messrs. Parker, Laughton, and I mounted horse, and crossed the ferry at seven o'clock over to Long Island. After a tedious passage and being detained some time at Baker's, we arrived a quarter after ten at Jamaica, a small town upon Long Island, just bordering upon Hampstead Plain, It is about half a mile long; the houses sparse. There are in it one Presbyterian meeting, one English and one Dutch church. The Dutch church is built in the shape of an octagon, being a wooden structure. We stopped there at the sign of the Sun, and paid dear for our break- fast, which was bread and mouldy cheese, stale beer, and sour cider. io8 Hampstead We set out again and arrived at Hampstead, a very scattered town, standing upon the great plain to which it gives name. We put up here at one Peters's, at the sign of Guy of Warwick, where we dined with a company that had come there before us, and were travelhng southward. There was a pretty girl here, with whom Parker was mightily taken, and would fain have staid that night. This girl had intermitting fevers. Parker pretended to be a doctor, and swore he could cure her if she would submit to his directions. With difficulty we persuaded Parker to mount horse. At four o'clock, going across this great plain, we could see almost as good a horizon round us as when one is at sea, and in some places of the plain, the latitude might be taken by observation at noon- day. It is about sixteen miles long. The ground is hard and gravelly; the road very smooth but in- distinct, and intersected by several other roads, which make it difficult for a stranger to find the way. There is nothing but long grass grows upon this plain, only in some particular spots small oak brush, not above a foot high. Near Hampstead there are several pretty winding brooks that run thro' this plain. We lost our way here, and blundered about a great while. At last we spied a woman and two men at some distance. We rid up towards them to inquire, but they were too wild to be spoke with, running over the plain as fast as wild bucks upon the mountains. Just after we came out of the plain and sunk into the woods, we found a boy lurking 109 behind a bush. We wanted to inquire the way of him, but, as soon as we spoke, the game was started and away he ran. Huntington We arrived at Huntington at eight o'clock at night, where we put up at one Flat's, at the sign of the Half-moon and Heart. This Flat is an Irishman. We had no sooner sat down, when there came in a band of the town politicians in short jackets and trousers, being probably curious to know who them strangers were who had newly arrived in town. Among the rest was a fellow with a worsted cap and great black fists. They styled him doctor. Flat told me he had been a shoemaker in town, and was a notable fellow at his trade, but happening two years ago to cure an old woman of a pestilent mor- tal disease, he thereby acquired the character of a physician, was applied to from all quarters, and finding the practice of physic a more profitable business than cobbling, he laid aside his awls and leather, got himself some gallipots, and instead of cobbling of scales fell to cobbling of human bodies. At supper our landlord was very merry, and very much given to rhyming. There were three buxom girls in this house, who served us at supper, to whom Mr. Parker made strenuous courtship. One was an Indian girl named Phoebe; the other two were Lucretia and Betty; but Betty was the top- beauty of the three. Wednesday, July nth.— We left Huntington at half an hour after six in the morning, and after riding no five miles stony road, we breakfasted at a house upon the road, at the sign of Bacchus. Then pro- ceeding ten or eleven miles farther, we forded Smith- town River, otherwise called by the Indians Mis- saque. We baited our horses at a tavern where there was a deaf landlady. After half an hour's rest we mounted horse again, and rid some miles thro' some very barren, unequal, and stony land. We saw the mouth of Smithtown River running into the sound, thro' some broken sandy beaches about eight miles to our left hand N. N. W., and about twenty-four miles farther to the northward, the coast of the main of New England or the Province of Con- necticut. Brookhaven^ or Setoquet We arrived at a scattered town called Brookhaven, or by the Indians Setoquet, about two o'clock after- noon, and dined at one Buchanan's there. Brookhaven is a small scattered village, standing upon barren rocky land near the sea. In this town is a small windmill for sawing of plank, and a wooden church with a small steeple. At about fifty miles' distance from this town eastward is a settle- ment of Indians, upon a sandy point, which makes the south fork of the island, and runs out a long narrow promontory into the sea, almost as far as Block Island. While we were at Buchanan's an old fellow named Smith called at the house. He said he was a-travelling to York, to get a license or commission from the Governour to go a-privateering, and swore he would not be under any commander, but would III be chief man himself. He showed us several antic tricks, such as jumping half a foot high upon his bum, without touching the floor with any other part of his body. Then he turned and did the same upon his belly. Then he stood upright upon his head. He told us he was seventy-five years of age and swore damn his old shoes if any man in America could do the like. He asked me whence I came and whither I went. I answered him I came from Calli- phurnia and was going to Lanthern Land. He swore damn his old shoes again if he had not been a sailor all his life long and yet never had heard of such places. Mr. Parker made him believe that he was a captain of a privateer, and for a mug of cider made him engage to go on board of him upon Fri- day next, promising to make him his lieutenant, for nothing else would satisfy the old fellow. The old chap was mightily elevated at this and damned his old shoes twenty times over. At last he wanted to borrow a little advance money of Parker, which when he found he could not obtain, he drank up his cider, and swore he would not go. We took horse again at half an hour after five o'clock, and had scarce got a mile from Brookhaven when we lost our way, but were directed right again by a man whom we met. After riding ten miles thro' woods and marshes, in which we were pestered with mosquitoes, we arrived at eight o'clock at night at one Brewster's, where we put up for all night, and in this house we could get nothing either to eat or drink, and so were obliged to go to bed fasting or supperless. I was conducted upstairs to a large chamber. The people in this house seemed to be quite savage and rude. Thursday, July 12th.— When I waked this morning I found two beds in the room, besides that in which I lay, in one of which lay two great hulking fellows, with long black beards, having their own hair, and not so much as half a nightcap betwixt both them. I took them for weavers, not only from their greasy appearance, but because I observed a weaver's loom at each side of the room. In the other bed was a raw-boned boy, who, with the two lubbers, huddled on his clothes, and went reeling downstairs, making as much noise as three horses. We set out from this desolate place at six o'clock, and rid sixteen miles thro' very barren and waste land. Here we passed thro' a plain of six or eight miles long, where was nothing but oak brush or bushes, two feet high, very thick, and replenished with acorns; and thinly scattered over the plain were several old naked pines at about two or three hundred feet's distance one from another, most of them decayed and broken. In all this way we met not one living soul, nor saw any house but one in ruins. Some of the inhabitants here call this place the Desert of Arabia. It is very much infected with mosquitoes. We breakfasted at one Fanning's. Near his house stands the County Court-house, a decayed wooden building, and close by his door runs a small rivulet into an arm of the sea about twenty miles' distance, which makes that division of the eastern end of Long Island called the Fork. South HOLD This day was rainy, but we took horse and rid ten miles farther to one Hubbard's, where we rested 113 half an hour, then proceeded eight miles farther to the town of Southhold, near which the road is level, firm, and pleasant, and in the neighborhood are a great many windmills. The houses are pretty thick along the road here. We put up at one Mrs. Moore's in Southhold. In her house appeared noth- ing but industry. She and her grand-daughters were busied in carding and spinning of wool. Mes- sieurs Parker and Laughton were very much dis- posed to sleep. We ordered some eggs for dinner and some chickens. Mrs. Moore asked us if we would have bacon fried with our eggs ; we told her no. After dinner we sent to inquire for a boat to cross the Sound. At night the house was crowded with a company of patched coats and tattered jackets, and conse- quently the conversation consisted chiefly in damn ye, Jack; and here's to you, Tom. A comical old fellow among the rest asked me if I had come from the new country. His name he told me was Cleve- land, and he was originally of Scots parentage. I told him then his genuine name must be Cleland. W'e asked him what entertainment we could have at the oyster pond, where we designed to take boat to cross y^ Sound. "Why truly," said he, "if you would eat such things as we Gentiles do, you may live very well, but as your law forbids you to eat swine's flesh your living will be but indifferent." Parker laughed, and asked him if he took us for Jews or Mahometans. He replied: "Gentlemen, I ask pardon, but the landlady informed me you were Jews." This notion proceeded from our refusing of bacon to our eggs at dinner. While we were at supper there came in a peddler 114 with his pack, along with one Doctor Hull, a prac- titioner of physick in the town. We were told that this doctor was a man of great learning, and very much of a gentleman. The peddler went to show him some linen by candle-light, and told him very ingenuously that now he would be upon honour with him and recommend to him the best of his wares, and as to the price he would let him know the highest and lowest at one word, and would not bate one penny of six shillings a yard. There passed some learned conversation betwixt this doctor and peddler, in which the doctor made it plain that the lawyers, clergy, and doctors tricked the rest of mankind out of the best part of their substance, and made them pay well for doing of nothing. But the peddler stood up mightily for the honour of his own profession, and affirmed that they made as good a hand of it as any cheat among them all; "but then," added he, "you have something to handle for your money, good or bad, as it happens." We left this company at nine o'clock at night, and went upstairs to bed, all in one chamber. Oyster Pond Friday, July iph.—Wt took horse after six in the morning and rid five or six miles close by the Sound till we came to one Brown's, who was to give us passage in his boat. Then we proceeded seven miles farther, and stopped at one King's to wait the tide when Brown's boat was to fall down the river, to take us in. The family at King's were all busy in preparing dinner, the provision for which 115 chiefly consisted in garden stuff. Here we saw some handsome country girls, one of whom wore a perpetual smile in her face, and prepared the choco- late for our breakfast. She presently captivated Parker, who was apt to take flame upon all occa- sions. After breakfast for pastime we read Que- vedo's visions, and at one o'clock dined with the family upon fat pork and green pease. At two o'clock we observed the boat falling down the river, and having provided ourselves with a store of bread and cheese and some rum and sugar, in case of being detained upon the water, that part of the Sound which we had to cross being eighteen miles broad, we put our horses on board ten minutes before three, and set sail with a fair wind from the Oyster Pond. Sound At three o'clock we crossed the Gut, a rapid current, betwixt the main of Long Island and Shelter Island, caused by the tides. Shelter Island— Gardiner's Island At a quarter after three, we cleared Shelter Island, larboard, upon our weather bow. Gardiner's Is- land bore east by north, starboard, about three leagues' distance. This island is in the possession of one man, and takes its name from him. It had been a prey to the French privateers in Queen Anne's war, who used to land upon it and plunder the family and tenants of their stock and provi- ii6 sions, the island lying very bleak upon the ocean, just at the easternmost entry of the Sound, betwixt Long Island and the main of Connecticut. Fisher's Island— Two-tree Island A LITTLE to the northward of this lies Fisher's Island, and about three or four leagues' distance upon our larboard we saw a small island called Two-tree Is- land, because they say there are only two trees upon it, which are of a particular kind of wood, which nobody there can give a name to, nor are such trees to be seen anywhere else in the country. Connecticut Government— New London We arrived in the harbour at New London at half an hour after six, and put up at Duchand's at the sign of the Anchor. The town of New London is irregularly built along the water side, in length about a mile. There is in it one Presbyterian meet- ing and one church. 'T is just such another deso- late, extensive town as Annapolis in Maryland, the houses being mostly wood. The inhabitants were alarmed this night at a sloop that appeared to be rowing up into the harbour, they having heard a little before a firing of guns out in the Sound, and seen one vessel, as they thought, give chase to an- other. There was a strange clamour and crowd in the street, chiefly of women. The country station sloop lay in the harbour, who, when she was within shot, sent her a salute; first one gun, sharp shot, 117 but the advancing sloop did not strike ; then she be- stowed upon her another, resolving next to proceed to a volley; but at the second shot, which whistled thro' her rigging, she struck and made answer that it was one Captain Trueman from Antigua. Then the people's fears were over, for they imagined it was old Morpang, the French rover, who in former times used to plunder these parts when he wanted provision. New London Ferry Saturday, July 14th.— We departed New London at seven o'clock in the morning, crossing the ferry, and rid eight miles thro' a very stony rough road, where the stones upon each hand of us seemed as large as houses, and the way itself a mere rock. Stonington This is properly enough called Stonington. We breakfasted at one Major Williams's, and pro- ceeded ten miles farther to Thomson's, where we baited our horses. Here we met one Captain Noise, ^ >' ^ a dealer in cattle, whose name and character seemed pretty well to agree, for he talked very loud, and joaked and laughed heartily at nothing. Rhode Island and Providence Government The landlady here was a queer old woman, an enor- mous heap of fat. She had some daughters and 118 maids, whom she called by comical names. There were Thankful, Charity, Patience, Comfort, Hope, etc. Upon the road here stands a house belonging to an Indian King named George, commonly called King George's house or palace. He possesses twenty or thirty thousand acres of very fine level land round this house, upon which he has many tenants, and has of his own a good stock of horses and other cattle. The King lives after the English mode. His subjects have lost their own govern- ment policy and laws, and are servants or vassals to the English here. His queen goes in a high modish dress in her silks, hoops, stays, and dresses like an Englishwoman. He educates his children to the belles lettres and is himself a very complaisant, mannerly man. We payed him a visit, and he treated us with a glass of good wine. We dined at one Hill's, and going from thence at four o'clock, and travelling thro' twelve miles more of stony, rough road, we passed by an old- fashioned wooden house at the end of a lane, dark- ened and shaded over with a thick grove of tall trees. This appeared to me very romantic, and brought into my mind some romantic descriptions of rural scenes in Spenser's Faerie Queene. Sugar Loaf About a quarter of a mile farther, at the end of a lane, is a little hill, that rises up in a conical form and is therefore called the Sugar Loaf. The fenc- ing here is all stone. We could see to our right 119 hand the ocean and part of the Sound, the long point of Long Island called Montague Block Is- land, and at a good distance, behind an island called Conannicut, part of Rhode Island. At six o'clock we arrived at a village called Tower Hill or South Kingstown. It lies near the sea. All round here the country is high, hilly, and rocky; few woods and these dwarfish. You have a large, extensive prospect from here, both to the sea and landward. We put up at the house of one Case in Kingstown, who keeps a pretty good house, is a talkative, prating man, and would have every- body know that he keeps the best public house in the country. We heard news of some prizes brought into Newport by the Rhode Island pri- vateers, and among the rest a large Spanish snow, with no loading, but 30,000 pounds' value. New England money, in silver, which is 5,000 pounds sterling. Sunday, July i^th.—We tarried at Case's all this day, it being unlawful here to travel upon Sunday, or, as they term it, Sabbath day (Sunday being a pagan name). We loitered about all the forenoon, having nothing to do and no books to read, except it was a curious History of the Nine Worthies (which we found in Case's library), a book worthy of that worthy author Mr. Burton, the diligent compiler and historian of Grub Street. Case was mightily offended by Mr. Laughton for singing and whis- tling, telling him that he ought not so to profane the sabbath. Laughton swore that he had forgot what day it was, but Case was still more offended at his swearing, and left us in bad himiour. 120 This day was bleak and stormy, the wind being at east by north. I diverted myself by looking at the coasting sloops passing up and down by Con- nannicut Point, which runs out here, much like Greenberry's near Annapolis, but is quite bare, rocky, and barren. Upon it the tide beats with great violence, so as to raise a white foam a great way round it. We dined at three o'clock, and after dinner walked out to see our horses in the pasture, where my gray, having laid himself down at full length to sleep, I imagined at a distance that he was dead; but throwing a stone at him he started up and got to his heels. We viewed the sea from a high rock, where we could see the spray beating with violence over the tops of the rocks upon the coast, and below us, of three or four miles' extent, a pleasant green meadow, thro' the middle of which ran a pretty winding river. Most of the country round is open, hilly, and rocky, and upon the rocks there is a great deal of spar, or substance like white marble, but in very small pieces. We returned home at six o'clock, and had a ram- bling conversation with Case and a certain traveller upon different subjects. There came to the house at night a Rhode Island colonel (for in this coun- try there is great plenty of colonels, captains, and majors), who diverted us with some stories about the Newlightmen. There are a great many Seventhdaymen here, who keep Saturday instead of Sunday, and so go to work when others go to church. Most of the people here begin their Sun- day upon Saturday night after sunset, and end it upon Sunday at sunset, when they go to any kind of recreation or work upon other days lawful. 121 After a light supper of bread and milk, we went to bed. Naragantset Ferry— Dutch Island Monday, July idth.—We set off from Case's at half an hour after six in the morning, and crossed Conannicut Ferry or Naragantset betwixt eight and nine o'clock. Rhode Island Ferry There is a small island lies betwixt the main and Conannicut, called Dutch Island, because the Dutch first took possession of it. We crossed the other ferry to Newport, upon Rhode Island, a little after ten o'clock, and had a very heavy rain all the pas- sage. Dumplin's— Rose Island There are some rocks there called the Dumplin's, and a little above a small island called Rose Island, upon which there is one tree. Here you have very pretty views and prospects from the mixture of land and water. As we stepped into the ferry boat there were some stones lay in her bottom, which obstructed the horses getting in. Dromo desired the skipper to "trow away his stones, de horse be better ballast." "No," says the fellow, "I cannot part with my stones yet ; they will serve for a good use at another time." We arrived at Newport at 12 o'clock. Rhode OLD STATE HOUSE Newport, R. L a8UOH 3TAT8 CUO .1 .a ^ToqwsW 1 Island IS a pleasant, open spot of land, being an entire garden of farms, twelve or thirteen miles long and four or five miles broad at its broadest part. The town Newport is about a mile long, lying pretty near north and south. It stands upon a very level spot of ground, and consists of one street, narrow, but so straight that, standing at one end of it, you may see to the other. It is just close upon the water. There are several lanes going from this street, on both sides. Those to the land- ward are some of them pretty long and broad. There is one large Market-house, near the south end of the main street. The Town-house stands a little above this Market-house, away from the water, and is a handsome brick edifice, lately built, having a cupola at top. There is besides in this town two Presbyterian meetings, one large Quaker meeting, one Anabaptist, and one Church of Eng- land.^ The church has a very fine organ in it, and there is a publick clock upon the steeple as also upon the front of the Town-house. The fort^ is a square building of brick and stone, standing upon a small island, which makes the harbour. This place is famous for privateering, and they had about this time brought in several prizes, among which was a large Spanish snow near 200 tons burden, which I saw in the harbour, with her bowsprit shot oflf. This town is as remarkable for pretty women as Albany is for ugly ones, many of whom one may see sitting in the shops in passing along the street. I dined at a tavern kept by one Nicolls at the sign 1 Trinity Church, still standing almost unimpaired — as it stood over a century ago. 2 Situated on Goat Island, then called Fort George. 123 of the White Horse, where I had put up my horses, and in the afternoon, Dr. Mofifatt/ an old acquaint- ance and schoolfellow of mine, led me a course thro' the town. He carried me to see one Feake,^ a painter, the most extraordinary genius ever I knew, for he does pictures tolerably well by the force of genius, having never had any teaching. I saw a large table of the Judgment of Hercules, copied by him from a frontispiece of the Earl of Shaftesbury's, which I thought very well done. This man had exactly the phiz of a painter, hav- ing a long pale face, sharp nose, large eyes,— with which he looked upon you steadfastly,— long curled black hair, a delicate white hand, and long fingers. I went with Moflfatt in the evening to Dr. Keith's, another countryman and acquaintance, where we spent the evening very agreeably in the company of one Dr. Brett,'' a very facetious old man. I soon found that Keith passed for a man of great gal- lantry here, being frequently visited by the young ladies in town, who are generally very airy and frolicsome. He showed me a drawer full of the trophies of the fair, which he called his cabinet of curiosities. They consisted of torn fans, frag- ments of gloves, whims, snuff-boxes, girdles, apron- strings, laced shoes and shoe-heels, pin-cushions, hussifs, and a deal of other such trumpery. I lay this night at Dr. Moffatt's lodging. 1 Probably the Dr. Thomas Moffatt whose property was attacked by rioters at Newport in 1765. 2 Robert Feke, son of a Quaker ; disinherited because he became a Bap- tist ; learned to paint while a prisoher in Spain ; spent most of the remainder of his life in Newport, where he died, aged forty-five. A portrait from his hand is in the Redwood Library, Newport. 3 Dr. John Bret, came from Leyden to Newport in 1740. 124 Tuesday J July lyth.—l breakfasted with Dr. Mof- fatt, and had recommendatory letters of him to some of the fraternity in Boston. I went with the Doctor at ten o'clock to see a house about half a mile out of town, built lately by one Captain Mall- bone/ a substantial trader there. It is the largest and most magnificent dwelling-house I have seen in America. It is built entirely of hewn stone of a reddish colour; the sides of the windows and cor- ner-stones of the house being painted like white marble. It is three stories high, and the rooms are spacious and magnificent. There is a large lan- thern or cupola on the roof, which is covered with sheet lead. The whole staircase, which is very spacious and large, is done with mahogany wood. This house makes a grand show at a distance, but is not extraordinary for the architecture, being a clumsy Dutch model. Round it are pretty gardens and terraces, with canals and basins for water, from whence you have a delightful view of the town and harbour of Newport, with the shipping lying there. When Mr. Parker and Laughton came up, we proceeded on our journey, riding along the island a broad and even road, where our eyes were enter- tained with various beautiful prospects of the conti- nent, islands, and water. From some high places we could see Block Island to the westward. We dined at Burden's, a Quaker, who keeps the ferry, where we had good entertainment, and met with one Mr. Lee, a proprietor in some iron works near Boston. We crossed the ferry at four o'clock, and rid some miles of stony, unequal road. 1 Captain Godfrey Malbone, partner with Hopkins in the ownership of a number of vessels. Massachusetts Province— Mount Hope As we entered the Province of the Massachusetts Bay, upon the left hand we saw a hill called Mount Hope, formerly the stronghold or refuge of an Indian king named Philip, who held the place a long time against the first settlers, and used to be very troublesome by making excursions. Bristol We passed thro' Bristol, a small trading town, laid out in the same manner as Philadelphia, about three o'clock. We crossed another little ferry at five o'clock, and baited at one Hunt's, then riding ten miles farther we parted with Mr. Lee, and lay that night at one Slake's, at the sign of the White Horse. Wednesday, July i8th.—We set out a little after six in the morning, breakfasted at Mann's,^ and from thence went ten miles farther to Robins's,^ where we parted. We were resolved to dine at Dedham, but were scarce got upon our horses when we were met by a company of gentlemen, who being ac- quaintances of Parker and Laughton, they per- suaded us to turn back to Robins's again. There was in this company one Cofifin,^ who inquired after my brother in Maryland, and told me he had once been a patient of his when at Benedict Town upon Patuxent, about sixteen or seventeen years ago. 1 Mann's Tavern was situated in Wrentham. 2 Robin's Tavern was situated in Walpole. ' Perhaps William Coffin, tax collector of Suffolk County. 126 In this house I and my company were taken for peddlers. There happened to be a peddler there selling some wares, who saw me open my port- manteau and sort some bundles and packets of letters. He mistook my portmanteau for a pack, for it is not very customary here to ride with such implements, and so would have chaffered with me for some goods. While we were at dinner one Mr. Lightfoot came in, to whom I had a recommendatory letter. This Lightfoot is a gentleman of a regular education, having been brought up at Oxford in England, a man of good humour and excellent sense. He had upon his head, when he entered the company, a straw hat dyed black, but no wig. He told us that he always rode in this trim in hot weather, but that among the country people he had been taken for a French spy, upon account of the oddity of his dress. He said he had heard a grand laugh as he passed by, and guessing that there were some Boston peo- ple in the company he was induced to call in. Then he pulled about two pounds of black rye bread out of his pocket, and told us that he thought perhaps he might come to some places upon the road where there might be a scarcity of fine bread, and there- fore had provided himself. We had news here of the French having, along with the Cape Sable and St. John Indians, made an attack upon Annapolis Royal, and that they had killed all their cattle and several men there, and burnt down all the houses in the town, so that the inhabitants, in the utmost distress, were obliged to betake themselves to the fort, where they were scanty of provisions and ready to surrender, when 127 Ting/ master of the Boston galley, came seasonably to their assistance with a reinforcement of men and a fresh supply of provisions, and as soon as the enemy heard his guns they fled into the woods. This Ting has gained a great character here for his conduct and courage. Dedham We parted from Robins's a little after three, and betwixt five and six arrived at Dedham, a village within eleven miles of Boston, where we rested a little and drank some punch. Lightfoot had a scolding bout here with one Betty, the landlady's daughter, for secreting one of our lemons, and was obliged to vent a deal of billingsgate, and swear a string of lusty oaths, before he could recover it again. He told me that this place was the most sharping country ever I was in, and that this little peddling trick was only the beginning of it, and nothing to what I should experience if I stayed but some weeks there. We took horse at half an hour after six, and passed several pretty country boxes at three or four miles' distance from Boston, belonging to gentlemen in the town. Blue Hills At thirteen miles' distance from Boston is a range of hills, called the Blue Hills, upon the top of one of which a gentleman has built a country house, where 1 Edward Tyng, captain of the galley Boston from 1740. In 1744 cap- tured a French privateer commanded by Mons. De La Bra. 128 there is a very extensive view. A quarter before eight we arrived in Boston. Boston There I put my horses at one Barker's^ and took lodging at Mrs. Guneau's, a Frenchwoman, at the back of the Almshouse, near Beacon Hill, a very pleasant part of the town, situated high and well aired. My landlady and I conversed about two hours. She informed me that one Mr. Hughes,^ a merchant, that lately had been in Maryland, lodged at her house, which I was glad to hear, having had some small acquaintance with him. My landlady was a Frenchwoman, and had much of the humour of that nation, a deal of talk and a deal of action. I went to bed at eleven o'clock. Thursday, July igth.—l got up half an hour after five in the morning, and after breakfast I took a turn in the garden with Mr. Hughes, from whence we had a view of the whole town of Boston, and the peninsula upon which it stands. The neck which joins this peninsula to the land is situated southwest from the town, and at low water is not above thirty or forty paces broad, and is so flat and level that in high tides it is sometimes overflowed. The town is built upon the south and southeast side of the peninsula and is about two miles in length, extend- ing from the neck of the peninsula northward to that place called North End, as that extremity of 1 Barker's Tavern, later known as the Bunch of Grapes Tavern on the corner of Kilby Street (formerly Mackerel Lane) and State Street. 2 Samuel Hughes, a citizen of Boston. 129 the town next the neck is called South End. Be- hind the town are several pleasant plains, and on the west side of the peninsula are three hills in a range, upon the highest of which is placed a long beacon pole. To the northward over the water is situated a pretty large town called Charlestown. We could see a great many islands out in the bay, upon one of which, about three miles from town, stands the Castle,^ a strong fortification, that guards the entry of the harbour upon the most extreme island. About twelve miles out is the Lighthouse,^ a high building of stone in form of a pillar, upon the top of which every night is kept a light to guide ships into the harbour. When a snow, brig, sloop, or schooner appears out at sea they hoist a pinnace upon the flag-staff in the Castle ; if a ship, they dis- play a flag. At twelve o'clock I waited upon Mr. Hooper,^ one of the ministers in Boston, and from thence went to Mr. Lechmere's,* the surveyor's, to whom my letters of credit were directed. From his house I went to the Change, a place of public ren- dezvous. Here is a great building called the Town- house,^ about 125 feet long and forty feet broad. The lower chamber of this house, called the Change, is all one apartment, the roof of which is supported all along the middle with a row of wooden pillars, about twenty-five feet high. Upon Change I met 1 Castle Island. 2 Situated on Great Brewster (called Beacon Island), established in 1715. 3 Rev. William Hooper, first minister of the West Church, Boston, 1737. * Thomas Lechmere, surveyor general of customs for the northern dis- trict of America; died 1 765. 5 The Exchange and Town House were originally one and the same building; now the Old State House, corner of Washington and State Streets (called King Street until 1784). 130 Mr. Hutchinson ^ and Captain Wendall,^ to whom I dehvered letters. I went down to view the Long Wharf. This runs in a direct Hne with a broad street called King's Street, and is carried into the water pretty near a quarter of a mile. Upon one side of this wharf all along, there is a range of wooden houses, and close by the wharf lies a very numerous shipping. I dined at Withered's, a tav- ern at the Change, and there heard news of the magazines at Placentia being blown up. In the afternoon about six o'clock, Messrs. Par- ker and Laughton called at my lodging, and with them I took a tour round the north end of the town, and to the waterside, after which we went to a club at Withered's, where there was a pot-bellied doctor president. This man was as round as a ball, about five feet high, and pretended to be very knowing in politicks. He was a Frenchman by birth, and I understood he was by trade a usurer, letting out money at ten per cent. I left this club at ten o'clock and went home. Friday, July 20th. — I got up pretty early and took a turn in the garden. At eleven o'clock I went abroad with Mr. Hughes, and after taking a walk to the waterside we went to Change at twelve o'clock, where I delivered several letters. I saw at Change some Frenchmen, officers of the flag of truce, with prisoners for exchange from Canso, and of the privateer taken by Captain Ting. They were very loquacious, after the manner of their nation, and their discourse for the most part was 1 Eliakim Hutchinson, son-in-law of Governor Shirley; in the salt trade. 2 Captain Jacob Wendell, a prominent merchant ; many times moderator of the Boston town meeting. interlaced with oaths and smut. At two o'clock Mr. Hughes and I dined with Mr. Hooper, where we had some agreeable conversation. I came home in the afternoon, and writ some letters to go by the ships to Great Britain. Saturday, July 21st.— I rose later than usual this morning, and breakfasted with Mrs. Guneau and her daughter, the latter a passably handsome girl, nothing of the French spirit in her, but rather too grave and sedate. Near twelve o'clock I walked out with Mr. Hughes, and went to Change, where, after attending some time, and observing a variety of comical phizes, I encountered Captain Wendall, who pointed out Dr. Douglass ^ and Mr, Arbuthnot ^ to me, to whom I delivered letters. I was invited to dine with Captain Irvin,^ upon salt codfish, which here is a common Saturday din- ner, being elegantly dressed with a sauce of butter and eggs. In our company here was one Captain Petty, a very hard-favored man, a Scotsman by birth, humpbacked, and the tallest humpy ever I saw, being six feet high at least. There was one Perkins, a little round-faced man, a trader in the place. The discourse turned chiefly upon com- merce and trade, and thro' the whole of it I could discover a vein of that subtlety and acuteness so 1 Dr. William Douglass, born in Scotland, 1691 ; came to Boston, 1718 ; opposed inoculation for smallpox ; printed an almanac, Mercurius Novan- glicantts, 1 743-1 744; wrote a treatise on smallpox and other medical works ; chiefly renowned for his Summary, Historical and Political, of the British Settlements in North America, in two volumes, published in Boston 1747- 1750, republished in London, 1755, a work which, though diffuse and dis- ordered, is one of the standard sources on the period. 2 Probably Mr. John Arbuthnot, innkeeper in Essex Street ; an ofl5cer of Trinity Church in 1 740. 2 Probably Col. John Erving. 132 peculiar to a New England genius. Mr. Arbuthnot and I had some disputes concerning some particular High Church maxims, but as I looked upon the promoters and favourers of these doctrines to be every whit as absurd and silly as the doctrines them- selves, and adapted only for weak people, so I thought all argumentation was thrown away upon them, and therefore I dropped the dispute, for, as I was a stranger, I cared not, for the sake of such damned trifles, to procure the odium or ill will of any person in the place. After dinner I went home and slept till the evening, the weather being pretty hot, and I having drunk too much wine, it made me heavy. Sunday, July After breakfast I went with Mr. Hughes to Hooper's meeting,^ where we heard a very good discourse, and saw a genteel congrega- tion. The ladies were most of them in high dress. This meeting-house is a handsome new wooden building, with a huge spire or steeple at the north end of it. The pulpit is large and neat, with a large sounding-board, supported at each end with pilas- ters of the Doric order, fluted, and behind it there is a high arched door, over which hangs a green cur- tain. The pulpit cushion is of green velvet, and all the windows in the meeting are mounted with green curtains. After dismissing I went to Change, and return- ing from thence dined with Mr. Lechmere. There was a lady at table of a very masculine make, but dressed fine a la mode. She did not appear till 1 King's Chapel, on the corner of Tremont and School Streets ; first erected in 1688; enlarged in 1 710, and rebuilt in 1753; portico not com- pleted until 1789. dinner was almost over, pretending she could not endure the smell of the victuals, and was every now and then lugging out her sal volatile and Hungary water, but this I observed was only a modish air, for she made a shift betwixt times to swallow down as much beef and pudding as anybody at the table ; in short her teeth went as fast as her tongue, and the motion of both was perpetual. After dinner I went to the English chapel with Mr. Lechmere, and heard a small organ played by an indifferent organist. A certain pedantic Irish- man preached to us, who had much of the brogue. He gave us rather a philosophical lecture than a sermon, and seemed to be one of those conceited prigs who are fond of spreading out to its full extent all that superficial physical knowledge which they have acquired more by hearsay than by application or study; but of all places the pulpit is the most im- proper for the ostentatious of this sort; the lan- guage and phraseology of which sacred rostrum ought to be as plain to the ploughman as the scholar. We had a load of impertinence from him about the specific gravity of air and water, the exhalation of vapours, the expansion and condensation of clouds, the operation of distillation, and the chemistry of nature. It fine it was but a very puerile physical lecture, and no sermon at all. There sat some Indians in a pew near me who stank so that they had almost made me turn up my dinner. They made a profound reverence to the parson when he finished; the men bowed, and the squaws curtsied. After dinner I writ a letter for Annapolis and drank tea with Mrs. Guneau and some ladies. 134 Monday, July 2 ^d.— This morning I walked abroad with Mr. Hughes, and passed over the dam at the reservoir^ to the north end of the town. We sur- veyed the ships a-building upon the stocks, and went to see the new battery, a building of wood, just at the entry of that inlet of water that runs up towards Charlestown. This new battery mounts about fourteen or fifteen great guns, and facing the bay it runs out about fifty paces into the water. From thence we went and surveyed the merchants' warehouses, which stand all along the waterside. We next viewed the new Market-house,^ an ele- gant building of brick, with a cupola on the top, in length about 130 feet, in breadth betwixt 40 and 50. This was built at the proper expense of one Funell,^ a substantial merchant of this place, lately dead, and presented by him to the public. It is called by the name of Funell Hall, and stands near a little inlet of water, called the Town dock,^ over which, a little below the Market-house, is a wooden drawbridge that turns upon hinges that small vessels may pass and lie above it. In low tides this inlet is a very stinking puddle. At nine o'clock we finished our tour, and came home sharp-set for breakfast. At eleven o'clock Mr. Vans ® came to visit me, and invited me to dine 1 Formerly called The Pond. 2 In 1734 the town had three local markets, situated at North Square, Dock Square, and on the present ground of Boylston Market; Faneuil Hall was built 1742, and was the market-house referred to here. •* Peter Faneuil, born 1700, merchant of Boston; he gave Faneuil Hall to the town; died 1743. The spelling bears testimony to the pronunci- ation of the name still used by some old people. * Town Dock crossed by a drawbridge at Ann (now North) Street. The channel was originally extended across to the Charles River, making an island of the North End. 5 Hugh Vans. with him upon Tuesday. I went to Withered's at twelve o'clock, and from thence went to dine with Captain Wendall, where were some officers that had belonged to the garrison at Canso, and had been there when the place was taken by the French. They were brought to Boston by Captain Mangeau in the flag of truce. After dinner Captain Man- geau himself came in, who spoke such broken Eng- lish that I understood his French much better. In the afternoon I called at Mr. Hooper's and agreed to go to Cambridge with him upon Wednesday. Tuesday, July 24th. — 1 received this day a letter from Dr. Mofifatt at Newport, Rhode Island, and answered the same by the opportunity of Mr. Hughes, who went there this day. Dr. Douglass paid me a short visit in the morning, and at twelve o'clock I went to Change, where I saw Mr. Vans, who carried me to dine with him. Mr. Vans himself and his whole family I found to be great admirers of the New Light doctrines and scheme. His wife is a strenuous Whitfieldian. The word carnal was much used in our table talk, which seems to be a favorite word of the fair sex of that persuasion. There was one at table whom Mr. Vans called brother, who spoke very little, but had the most solemn puritanic countenance ever I had seen. The discourse chiefly turned upon re- ligion, but the strain of it was so enthusiastic that I thought fit only to be a hearer. After dinner I went with Mr. V ans to an auction of books in King street, where the auctioneer, a young fellow, was very witty in his way. "This book," says he, "gentlemen, must be valuable. Here 136 I) ynfyn o^iivf ^ /2>txilui^>^j ^vk. -z^c^t*. /LxW- ttwnj n /W duu^xovJ^ ^fcylX^, ^ ^^^^ j;-^ C^'- ife/ iy^ o^v.& yvc^ ^UL.r^/J^U'^^ ^ a KtQ ^ l^ ti^xun^ lA.^^,4f^ H^JI^ Jt£i-^ Cir^oU-^ ftcXf P ji^J'-^'kcyyu Cuv-€^ /Lv/t/*-*^ ^v-x^j^s Cil^x^tLUJ ^mfi£fyi^ T^Cy eLctJL pc-r 3^ ^>/r-c*-»*^ Jir*-^^ '^t^ct^t^^tM^ X Gi -/^OC^^^^istA^ /<^^^c'«>»».«^4>^ /Jt^^^!i./t«^ /^A-*^ dltjyo^'.iuf^ , ^^J^ HsM fjTA^, l^S^-A.e^^>fi^_^-^>^ uuis^VXM ^irvA.^ 1^ ( "^/rvyif^eAyyt^i^ ffj^ J/Vttx v-cJix^ Pf^jLir^^ l/t\jUr^ ftro^ a-^v*^ ^JUUrv, Ik^ofia^ 9rL0L^Wi^ — had a letter from Miss Withered to her brother in Maryland, who lives upon Sassafras River. Wednesday, August i ^th. — I went this morning with Messrs. Hooper and Hughes to Cambridge. Upon the road we met two of the French Mohooks on horseback, dressed, a la mode frangaise, with laced hats, full-trimmed coats, and ruffled shirts. One of them was an old fellow; the other a young man with a squaw mounted behind him. The squaw seemed to be a pretty woman, all bedaubed with wampum. They were upon little roan horses, and had a journey of above 700 miles to make by land. Upon the road to Cambridge, the lands are en- closed with fine stone fences, and some of the gates have posts of one entire stone, set right up upon end, about eight or ten feet high. The country all round is open and pleasant, and there is a great number of pretty country houses scattered up and down. Cambridge When we came to Cambridge we waited upon Mr. Hollyhoak,^ the president, who sent the librarian^ to show us the college and the library. Cambridge is a scattered town about the largeness of Annapolis, and is delightfully situated upon a pleasant plain near a pretty river of the same name,^ over which is a wooden bridge. The college is a square build- 1 Rev. Edward Holyoke, president of Harvard College from 173710 1769. His official residence was the present Wadsworth House. 2 Matthew Gushing, librarian of Harvard College from 1743 to 1748. * An evident error, since the stream is the Charles River. ing or quadrangle about 150 feet every way. The building upon the left hand as you enter the court is the largest and handsomest and most ancient, being about 100 years old; but the middle or front building is indifferent, and of no taste. That upon the right hand has a little clock upon it, which has a very good bell. In the library are three or four thou- sand volumes with some curious editions of the classics, presented to the college by Dean Barklay. There are some curiosities, the best of which is the cut of a tree about ten inches thick and eight long, entirely petrified and turned into stone. Charlestown Ferry— Castle of Boston We returned from Cambridge by the way of Charlestown. Crossing that ferry to Boston, we dined at Withered's with a pretty large company, and in the afternoon had a pleasant sail to the Cas- tle, where the Governour and Assembly were met, to consult about fortifying of Governour's Island, which is situated just opposite to that whereon the Castle stands. This Castle consists of a large half- moon with two bastions, defended with a glacis of earth and wood which is cannon proof. Upon these are mounted about forty great iron guns, each thirty-two-pounders. Upon the higher works or walls of this Castle are mounted above one hundred smaller guns, most of them twelve or eighteen- pounders. Upon the most eminent place is a look- out, where stands the flag-staff, and where a sentry is always posted. From here you can see pretty plainly with a spy-glass. 174 Lighthouse About nine miles farther out, upon a small island is the Lighthouse, which is a high stone building in form of a sugar-loaf, upon the top of which every night they burn oil, to direct and guide the vessels at sea into the harbour. There is a draw-well in the Castle, which is covered with an arch of brick and stone in fashion of a vault. In the most emi- nent place is a square court, upon one side of which is a chapel and stateroom, upon the other some dwelling-houses. We went to see Mr. Philips, the chaplain there, and returned to town at nine o'clock at night. I supped with Hughes at Withered's, and saw one Mr. Simmonds there, a gentleman residing at Charleston in South Carolina, who was going there by land, and proposed to go in company with me to Maryland. Thursday, August i6th. — I stayed at home most of the forenoon and had a deal of chat with La Moin- nerie. I regretted much that I should be obliged to leave this facetious companion so soon, upon the ac- count of losing his diverting conversation, and the opportunity of learning to speak good French, for he used to come to my room every morning and hold forth an hour before breakfast. I intended to begin my journey homeward to- morrow. I dined with Hughes at Dr. Gardiner's,* and our table talk was agreeable and instructing, divested of these trifles with which it is commonly loaded. We visited at Mrs. Blackater's in the 1 Dr. Sylvester Gardiner, physician and merchant of Boston. afternoon, and had the pleasure of drinking tea with one of her fair daughters, the old woman and the other daughter being gone to their country farm. I went in the evening with Mr. Hughes to a club at Withered's, where we had a deal of discourse in the disputatory way. One Mr. Clackenbridge (very properly so named upon account of the volubility of his tongue) was the chief disputant as to verbosity and noise, but not as to sense or argument. This was a little dapper fellow, full of the opinion of his own learning. He pretended to argue against all the company, but like a confused logician he could not hold an argument long, but wandered from one topic to another, leading us all into confusion and loud talking. He set up for a woman-hater, and preferring what he called liberty before every other enjoyment in life, he therefore decried marriage as a political institution, destructive of human liberty. My head being quite turned this night with this confused dispute, and the thoughts of my journey to-morrow, I got into a strange fit of absence; for, having occasion to go out of the company two or three times to talk with Mr. Withered, I heedlessly every time went into a room where there was a strange company, as I returned, and twice sat down in the midst of them, nor did I discover I was in the wrong box till I found them all staring at me. For the first slip I was obliged to form the best apology I could, but at the second hit I was so confused and saw them so inclinable to laugh that I ran out at the door precipitately, without saying anything and betook me to the right company. I went to my lodging at twelve o'clock. 176 IfiiP^ tA^ OtO-*"^^ ^i2<»,*,ewe,^ '^^ec^ fK-ct-t^ o^-Sxy-H^ ^ ijiyr< 5^4^ ^t*/ f>^--cU^lu^»upu,^ ^^^^^^ ^^tvi?^ ^7i/<^ t»tu.e^ u^jX- ^t^, ^ O-ct^^ hjuoum, 0^ 8^uJ23 » nM^H^ n^l£€. PtZX^ i/^A.^ Pt:^^^ ^oU^ilJjk^^ ^^^^ ^^^tj^ IH *^ ^ ^ f^f^ Hzi, One Mr. Green ^ is now Governour; the House of Assembly chooses the Council. They have but little regard to the laws of England, their mother coun- try, tho' they pretend to take that constitution for a precedent. Collectors and naval officers here are a kind of ciphers. They dare not exercise their office for fear of the fury and unruliness of the people, but their places are profitable, upon account of the pres- ents they receive for every cargo of run goods. This Colony separated itself from New England, and was formed into a different government thro' some religious quarrel that happened betwixt them. It is customary here to adorn their chimney panels with birds' wings, peacock feathers, and butterflies. Friday, August 24th. — Going to breakfast this morn- ing I found a stranger with Mrs. Leech, who in six- teen days had come from Maryland, and had been there about some business relating to iron works. When I came into the room he asked Mrs. Leech if this was the gentleman that came from Maryland. She replied yes ; then turning to me he acquainted me that he had lately been there, and had seen sev- eral people whom he supposed I knew, but he was fain to leave the place in a hurry, the agues and fevers beginning to be very frequent. He gave me an account of his having seen some of my acquaint- ances well at Joppa. I was glad to hear good news from home, it being now above three months since I had any intelligence from there. 1 William Greene, born 1695; Governor of Rhode Island 1743 to his death in 1758. I called at Dr. Moffatt's after breakfast, who en- tertained me for half an hour with his sun micro- scope, which is a very curious apparatus, and not only magnifies the object incredibly, upon the mov- able screen, but affords a beautiful variety and sur- prising intermixture of colours. He showed me a small spider, the down of a moth's wing, the down of feathers, and a fly's eye, in all of which objects Nature's uniformity and beautiful design, in the most minute parts of her work, appeared. The doctor walked to the ferry landing with me, and there we took leave of one another. CoNNANicuT Ferry— Narragansett Ferry- Kingstown I HAD a tedious passage to Connanicut. It being quite calm we were obliged to row most of the way. Our passage was more expeditious over Narragan- sett Ferry, and there I had the company of a Rhode Islander all the way to Kingstown, where I dined at Case's in the company of some majors and cap- tains, it being a training day. Betwixt Case's and Hill's I was overtaken by a gentleman of consider- able fortune here. He has a large house close upon the road, and is possessor of a very large farm, where he milks daily 104 cows, and has besides a vast stock of other cattle. He invited me into his house, but I thanked him and proceeded, the sun being low. I put up at Hill's about sunset, and inquired there at the landlord concerning this gentleman. Hill informed me that he was a man of great estate, but 194 of base character, for being constituted one of the committee for signing the public bills of credit, he had counterfeited 50,000 pounds of false bills, and made his brethren of the committee sign them, and then counterfeited their names to 50,000 pounds of genuine bills, which the government had then is- sued. This piece of villany being detected the whole 100,000 pounds was called in by the Govern- ment and he fined in 30,000 pounds to save his ears. But I think the fate of such a wealthy villain should have been the gallows, and his whole estate should have gone to repair the publick damage.^ As one rides along the road in this part of the country, there are whole hedges of barberries. Saturday, August 25th.— 1 set off at seven o'clock from Hill's, and it being a thick mist I had a dull solitary ride to Thomson's, where I breakfasted, being overtaken by a Seventh-day man going to meeting. Thankful, a jolly, buxom girl, the land- lady's daughter, made me some chocolate, for which I did not thank her, it being sorry stuff. I departed from there a little after ten, in the company of some Seventh-day men going to meeting. Connecticut Government— Stonington In this government of Rhode Island and Provi- dence, you may travel without molestation upon Sunday, which you cannot do in Connecticut or the Massachusetts Province without a pass, because here they are not agreed what day of the week the sab- bath is to be kept, some observing it upon Saturday and others upon Sunday. 1 This was Silas Greenman, member of the Rhode Island Assembly in 1716. I dined at Williams's at Stonington with a Boston merchant named Gardiner, and one Boyd, a Scotch Irish peddler. The peddler seemed to understand his business to a hair. He sold some dear bargains to Mrs. Williams, and while he smoothed her up with palaver the Bostoner amused her with re- ligious cant. This peddler told me he had been some time ago at Annapolis, at some horse races, and inquired after some people there. He gave me a description of B ie M 1, whose lodger he had been, and gave me a piece of secret history concerning P 1 R the Portuguese, and N y H y, how they passed for man and wife when they were in Philadelphia and the neighbour- hood of that city. Our conversation at dinner was a medley. Gardiner afifected much learning and the peddler talked of trade. New London Ferry— New London I LEFT Williams's about half an hour after three, and crossing the ferry a little after five o'clock, I arrived at New London and put up at Duchand's, at the sign of the Anchor. I did not know till now that I had any relations in this town. A parcel of children, as I rid up the lane, saluted me with "How d'ye, uncle? Welcome to town, uncle." Sunday, August 26th.— 1 stayed at home most of the forenoon, and was invited to dine with Collector Lechmere, son to the surveyor at Boston. There was at table there one Dr. Goddard and an old maid, 1 Paul Ruiz. 196 9XA'^<^o>v -^fv^ C^oi'^^Ji^ O^Vu^ j{.aJ^^^ CL {^^r^^yf- (L^ccjlJt /^^-^^^ ^^.^t ^^Z^^--' lU. A pl^^Jy ..^.^^ ^dA ^^ ^^crni <^ 0. erf o-CS- ryj<^ env^^iA^ ^jj^ f^Un^ ^e^r^ ^ ^^.x^^^R^^ t^_> yxr-S-A^ u,^, (vva- /fet^y^:^;^ fi^\yU/nJr€r (yj'^ ^tiiS^^/nlb~j 'J^ A^OX^ ^tijL^ Cl ^/»^~ X4 ^yyi'^\jyrili^jiyn/^ /fe<^(^K.ef^^L#->^ "ZtAe^ fUj^n^^ 6-^^ liuL-Y^' C^^^^y*^- (j^r^-rx/^ Qir^ruM^ 9J ftZm^^^ff-^ ca.'ci>i^ (T^ y!?»-VM-€- 'J^^rv-yt^ td^Suoi^ ^ ^»-e_^J^t-^6cA^4^,^'^ gable river that runs thro' a spacious green plain into the Sound. I arrived in Newhaven at five o'clock, where I put up at one Monson's at sign of Half-moon. There is but little good liquor to be had in the pub- lick houses upon this road. A man's horses are better provided for than himself, but he pays dear for it. The publick-house keepers seem to be some- what wild and shy when a stranger calls. It is with difficulty you can get them to speak to you, show you a room, or ask you what you would have, but they will gape and stare when you speak, as if they were quite astonished. Newhaven is a pretty large, scattered town, laid out in squares, much in the same manner as Philadelphia, but the houses are sparse and thin sown. It stands on a large plain, and upon all sides (excepting the south, which faces the Sound) it is enclosed with ranges of little hills, as old Jerusalem was, according to the topo- graphical descriptions of that city. The burying- place is in the center of the town, just facing the college,^ which is a wooden building about 200 feet long, and three stories high, in the middle front of which is a little cupola, with a clock upon it. It is not so good a building as that at Cambridge, nor are there such a number of students. It was the gift of a private gentleman to this place. MiLLFORD Wednesday, August 2gth.—l set out from Mon- son's a little after seven o'clock, and rid a tolerable 1 Yale College, founded at Saybrook in 1700, removed to New Haven, called Yale College 1718. 203 good road to Millford. Before I came there I was overtaken by a young man, who asked me several questions, according to country custom,— such as where I was going and whence I came, and the hke. To all which I gave answers just as impertinent as the questions were themselves. I breakfasted in Millford at one Gibbs's, and while I was there, the post arrived, so that there came great crowds of the politicians of the town to read the news, and we had plenty of orthographical blunders. We heard of some prizes taken by the Philadelphia privateers. Millford is a large scattered town, situated upon a large pleasant plain. Stratford Ferry— Stratford I went from here in company of a young man, and crossed Stratford Ferry at eleven o'clock, and was obliged to call at Stratford, my gray horse having lost a shoe. I stayed there some time at one Benja- min's, who keeps a tavern in the town. There I met a deal of company, and had many questions asked me. Stratford is a pleasant little town, pret- tily situated upon a rising ground, within half a mile of a navigable river that runs into the Sound. In this town is one Presbyterian meeting, and one church, both new buildings. The church is built with some taste and elegance, having large arched sash windows, and a handsome spire or steeple at the west end of it. Fairfield My young man rid with me till I came within five miles of Fairfield, which is another town in which 204 is an octagonal church or meeting built of wood, like that of Jamaica upon Long Island, upon the cupola of which is a publick clock. The roads be- tween this town and Norwalk are exceeding rough and stony, and the stones are very full of glittering isinglass. There is a river on the west side of this town, which runs into the Sound. I forded it at high water, when pretty deep. Sagatick River Within three miles and a half of Norwalk is an- other river, called by the Indian name of Sagatick. This I forded at low tide. I dined at one Taylor's here. My landlord was an old man of seventy. Understanding from my boy that I was a doctor from Maryland, and having heard that some of the doctors there were wonder-workers in practice, he asked my advice about a cancer which he had in his lip. I told him there was one Bouchelle in Mary- land who pretended to cure every disease by the help of a certain water which he had made, but as for my part I knew no way of curing a cancer but by extirpation or cutting it out. Norwalk I ARRIVED at Norwalk at seven o'clock at night. This town is situated in a bottom, midst a grove of trees. You see the steeple shoot up among the trees about half a mile before you enter the town and before you can see any of the houses. While I was at Taylor's the children were fright- ened at my negro. Slaves are not so much in use 205 as with us, their servants being chiefly bound or indentured Indians. The child asked if that negro was a-coming to eat them up. Dromo indeed wore a voracious phiz, for, having rid twenty miles with- out eating, he grinned like a crocodile, and showed his teeth most hideously. Betwixt Taylor's and Norwalk, I met a caravan of eighteen or twenty Indians. I put up at Nor- walk at one Beelding's, and as my boy was taking off the saddles, I could see one half of the town standing about him, making inquiry about his mas- ter. I was disturbed this night by a parcel of roaring fellows, that came rumbling upstairs to go to bed in the next room. They beat the walls with their elbows, as if they had a mind to batter down the house, being inspired, I suppose, by the great god Bacchus. A certain horse-jockey in the company had a voice as strong as a trumpet, and Stentor- like he made the house ring. "Damn me," says he, "if you or any man shall have the jade for lOO peaunds. The jade is as good a jade as ever wore curb." (It is customary here to call both horses and mares by the name of jades.) I wished him and his jade both once and again at the devil for disturbing my rest, for, just as I was a-dropping asleep again he uttered some impertinence with his Stentorian voice, which made me start and waked me. My rest was broken all that night, and wak- ing suddenly from a confused dream about my horse dropping dead under me in the road, I imag- ined I heard somebody breathe very high in the bed by me. I thought perhaps that my friend Stentor had thought fit to come there, and felt about with 206 my arms, but could discover nothing but the bed clothes, tho' the sound continued very distinct in my ears for about a minute after I was broad awake, and then it died away by degrees. This, with some people, would have procured the house a bad name of its being haunted with spirits. Stanford Thursday, August ^oth. — I left Nor walk at seven in the morning, and rid ten miles of stony road, cross- ing several brooks and rivulets that run into the Sound, till I came to Stanford.^ A little before I reached this town, from the top of a stony hill I had a large open view or prospect of the country westward. The greatest part of it seemed, as it were, covered with a white crust of stone, for the country here is exceedingly rocky, and the roads very rough, rather worse than Stonington. I breakfasted at Stanford at one Ebenezer Weak's. In this town I saw a new church, which is now a-building, the steeple of which was no sooner fin- ished than it was all tore to pieces by lightning in a terrible thunder-storm that happened here upon the first day of August in the afternoon. I observed the rafters of the steeple split from top to bottom and the wooden pins or trunnels that fastened the joints half drawn out. While I was at breakfast at Weak's, there came in a crazy old man, who complained much of the hardness of the times and of pains in his back and belly. "Lackaday for poor old Joseph!" said the 1 Stamford. 207 landlady. A little after him came in one Captain Lyon, living at Rye Bridge. He wore an affected air of wisdom in his phiz, and pretended to be a very knowing man in the affairs of the world. He said he had travelled the whole world over in his fancy, and would fain have persuaded us that he under- stood the history of mankind completely. Most of his knowledge was pedantry, being made up of commonplace sentences and trite proverbs. I asked him if I should have his company down the road. He replied that he would be glad to wait on me, but had an appointment to eat some roast pig with a neighbour of his, which would detain him till the afternoon. So I departed the town without him. I rode a stony and hilly road to Horseneck, and overtook an old man who rid a sorrel mare, with a colt following her. He told me he was obliged to ride slow for fear of losing the colt, for sometimes the creature strayed behind, meeting with jades upon the way. He said he had been travelling the country for three weeks, visiting his children and grandchildren, who were settled for fifty miles round him. He told me he had had twenty-one sons and daughters, of whom nineteen were now alive, and fifteen of them married and had children; and yet he himself did not marry till twenty-seven years of age, and was now only seventy-two years old. This old man called in at a house about two miles from Horseneck, where he said there lived a friend of his. An old fellow with a mealy hat came to the door, and received him with a "How d'ye, old friend Jervis?" So I parted with my com- pany. 208 HORSENECK I PASSED thro' Horseneck, a scattered town, at half an hour after eleven o'clock, and passed over Rye Bridge at twelve, the boundary of Connecticut and York Government, after having rid 155 miles in Connecticut Government. York Government "Farewell, Connecticut" (said I, as I passed along the bridge), "I have had a surfeit of your ragged money, rough roads, and enthusiastick people." The countries of Connecticut and New England are very large and well peopled, and back in the country here, upon the navigable rivers, as well as in the maritime parts, are a great many fine large towns. The people here are chiefly husbandmen - and farmers. The staples are the same as in the Massachusetts Province. They transport a good many horses to the West Indies, and there is one town in this Province that is famous for plantations of onions, of which they send quantities all over the continent and to the islands, loading sloops with them. Many of these onions I have seen nearly as large as a child's head. It is reported that in Connecticut alone they can raise fifty or sixty thousand men able to bear arms. One Mr. Law^ is present Governour of the Province. It is but a deputy Government under that of New England or the Massachusetts.^ 1 Jonathan Law, born 1674; graduated at Harvard 1695; Governor of Connecticut from 1 74 1 to his death in 1750. 2 A singular error, perhaps suggested by a hazy impression of Andros's government of New England in 1688. 209 Coming into York Government I found better roads, but not such a complaisant people for salut- ing upon the road, tho' in their houses they are neither so wild nor so awkward. It is to no pur- pose here to ask how many miles it is to such a place. They are not at all determined in the measure of their miles. Some will tell you that you are two miles from your stage. Ride half a mile farther, they '11 tell you it is four. A mile farther, you '11 be told it is six miles, and three miles farther they '11 say it is seven, and so on. New Rochelle I HAD a long ride before I arrived at New Rochelle, where I dined at the house of one Le Compte, a Frenchman, who has a daughter that is a sprightly, sensible girl. KiNGSBRIDGE Coming from thence at four o'clock, I put up this night at Doughty's, who keeps house at Kings- bridge; a fat man, much troubled with the rheu- matism, and of a hasty, passionate temper. I supped upon roasted oysters, while my landlord eat roasted ears of corn at another table. He kept the whole house in a stir to serve him, and yet could not be pleased. This night proved very stormy and threatened rain. I was disturbed again in my rest by the noise of a heavy tread of a foot in the room above. That wherein I lay was so large and lofty that any noise echoed as if it had been in a church. 210 C^-tjuLcaU (Lrv^'^v^j 9*(l^.'l\^& C(ryi^nJuX,'c^/- fij^Ay^l^ &r UviA^ QiUrTve^^ t^tvu^ yv^.^->.^ y\- e«7^^^^»H^->t^ {f^romH/r^tXA, ^ ttt^o-A. iy*.^o^ ^ ^ -^i^-cc^ &tcjlf<^ c*^!^ S^<»yjf^^j^U^ "ffciui^. C^^A>ln$^ >t/^cX 6l ^U^-xJ-r- l^^.g ^ ^.^c^ ('i.Jt^ AJ^e^ ii^ ^^.UJi^ ^.^-^ U^UL a^4^v^.^ * ^ , INDEX INDEX Aaron, rod of, 218 Abraham, seed of, 218 Acapulco, ship of, 221 Albany, seen at distance, 73 ; ar- rives at, 74 ; school at, 78 ; doc- tors of, 79 ; town house of, 80 ; description of, 86; manner of living, 245 Alexander, stopping place, 12 Alexander, Collector, 20; dines with, 26, 28 ; host, 232 ; com- panion, 233 ; host, 234, 236 ; took leave of, 236 Almanza, battle of, 83 Altum's, meets barber at, 242 Anabaptists, at tavern, 22 ; church of, 24 Ancrum, on the Hudson, 70 Anderson, Doctor, and acquain- tance, 10 Angell's tavern, dined at, 182 Animals, skunk, 76 ; cow, 81 ; sheep, 150; geese, 155; fox, 165 ; white monkey, 170 ; horses, 209; cat, 172; bedbugs, 184; cows, 194; crocodile, 206; mare and colt, 208 Annapolis, departure from, i ; letters sent to, 2 ; officials criti- cised, 3 ; acquaintance from, 26; sent letters to, 134; woman of, 232 ; news from, 233 ; com- mission to, 236; news from, 238; returned to, 245 Annapolis Royal, attacked by French, 127 Anne, Queen, war of, 116, 230 Anthony, keeper of Whitehall, 187; daughter of, 188 Anthony's Nose, so named from its appearance, 65 ; passed, 94 Antigua, gentleman from, 96 Apples, 213 Arabia, Desert of, 113 Arbuthnot, letters to, 132 ; dis- putes with, 133 ; host, 169 Aristotle, rules of, 235 Arncaple, Scotch family, 85 Art, works of, 124, 139, 220 Ascough, Dr. John, dined with, 105 ; flees at sight of peas, 105 Astronomy, 104 Astruc, French medical writer, 105 Auctioneer, 136 Babel, Tower of, shape and size of, 61 ; Van Bummill on, 67 Bacchus, sign of, 11 1; allusion to, 206 Baker, Matthew, a horse-jockey,3 Baker, keeper of ferry, 48; de- tained at, 108; calls at, 214 Baltimore, Lord, 31 Baltimore Town, on the road, 3 Banff, Lord, in Virginia, 97 Barbadoes, Hasell a native of, i ; news from, 22 ; Doctor of, 223, 227 Barber, patronized, 233, 236, 242 Barberries, 195 Barclay, Rev. Henry, church of, 77 Barker, left horses at, 158 Barker's Tavern, see note, 129 Barklay, Dean, contributions of, 174, 188; house of, 188 Bayard, Stephen, host, 53, 103, 249 » 104; disobeyed about green peas, 105 ; angry, io6; dines with brother of, 212; calls, 214; host, 215; calls, 220; brother, 224, 227 Beacon Hill, pleasant part, 129 Bedding's, lodging place, 206 Benedict Town, reference to, 126 Berwick, Duke of, a generous captor, 83 Betty, a beauty, no Beveridge's "Thoughts" burned, 197 Bible, controversy on, 40; in Dutch church, 60; Scripture quoted, 61 ; Van Bummill reads from, 64 Binning, Captain, 11 Blackater, Mrs., countrywoman, 163; daughters of, 166; at meeting, 170; hostess, 175 Bladen, Governor, health drank, 50 Block Island, to westward, 125 Blood, Captain, dined with, 82; visited. 83 ; drank with, 84 Blood, Thomas, a noted Irish- man, 83 Blue Hills, on the road, 128; view of, 148 Blue Mountains, see Catskills, 70 Bodineau, many girls of, 168 Boerhaave, Prof. Herman, teacher at Leyden, 62, 105 ; talked of, 160, 161, 162; Douglass on, 168; a drunken doctor on, 220 Bohemia, took road to, i ; Hasell goes to, 2 ; arrives at, 9 ; ferry, 9 ; returns to, 11, 241 Bond, Eliah, tavern oiE, 36, 231 Bond, Dr. Phineas, host, 23; meets, 233 Bond, Dr. Thomas, meets, 21 ; dined with, 21 ; visited, 233 Bonharnois, Governor of Can- ada, 73 Bon Vit, assumed name of Bon- harnois, 74 Books, Montaigne's Essays, 22 ; Don Quixote, 23 ; The Adven- tures of Joseph Andrews, 26; Rollin's Belles Lettres, 85; Quevedo's Visions, 116; Spen- ser's Faerie Queene, 119; Tac- itus, 137; Ovid's Art of Love, 137; Homer, 142; Murcius(?), 187; Homer's Iliad, 219; Shakespeare, 232, 235 Boston, men of at New York, 97; arrived at, 129; meets gen- tlemen of, 157 ; description of, 177; women of, 179; departed from, 180; papers from, 215; news from, 221 ; civilization of, 246 Boswall, Mrs., host, 51 ; meets handsome woman at, 52 ; guests of, 53 ; at tea, 55 ; drank tea with, 56 Bouchelle, Dr., a cure-all, 205 ; Yaw doctor, 241 Bourdillon, returns from voy- age, 216; at Todd's, 217, 218; at coffee house, 219 ; at Todd's, 221 Boyd, Scotch-Irish peddler, 196 Branford, on the road, 202 Brazier. Edward, at Castle, 171 Brett, Dr. John, facetious, 124; host, 191 Brewster, nothing to eat at, 112 Bridges, Rye, 209; stone, 202; toll, 199; wooden, 18 Bristol, on the road, 34; small trading town, 126 ; returned to, 183 ; ferry at, 183 ; arrived at, 231 Brookhaven, on the road, in Brown, comical fellow, 42 Brown, keeper of a boat, 115 Brown, Rev. Arthur, letter to, 153; host, 153, 155 Brown, William, beautiful coun- try seat, 147; out of town, 157 Brown's Tavern, at Joppa, 3 ; re- turned to, 244 Brunswick, on the Raritan, 43 ; returned to, 230 Buchanan, dined at, iir Buikhaut, Kaen, and eighteen children, 95 Bull, Captain, droll man, 190 250 Burden, a Quaker, host, 125, 183 Burlington, town of East Jersey, Burnet, William, Governor, 147 Burton, author, 120 Butter Mountain, along the Hud- son, 67 Buttermilk Island, romantic place, 93 B — r, gave directions, 8 B — t, old rogue, 15 Cadwaller (Cadwallader), Dr. Thomas, characterizes Jersey Government, 36; on religious sects, 37; at supper, 231 Calvert, Charles, late Governor, 236 Cambridge, plans to visit, 136; visit postponed, 139, 162, 163, 171 ; visited, 173 ; described, 173 ; return from, 174 Candles, 218 Cannon, 232 Cansoe, captured by French, 82; officers from, 136 Cape Anne, view of, 154, 156 Cape Breton, expedition to, 140 Cape of Good Hope, 189 Cape Sable Indians, 127, 138 Captain of tobacco ship, 2 Cardevitz, asks medical advice, 69 . Carmine, Island, now Hotaling Island, 71 Case, stopped at, 120; library of, 120; departed from, 122, 194 Castle, 54, 130; visited, 174 Castle Island, 130 Catholics, at tavern, 22. See also Religions Catskill, mountains, or Blue Mountains, 70; hills, 71, 91 Cervantes, discussed, 23 Change, public rendezvous, 130 Charles II bestowed estate, 74 Charlestown, location of, 130; visits, 143 Cheese, Rhode Island famous for, 191 Chesapeake Bay, avoided, i Chester, compared with Chelsea, 18 Chester, Ferry, stopping-place at, 10; State-house at, 18; ar- rived at, 237 Choat's Tavern, a good house, 151; dined with Boston gen- tlemen at, 156 Christin Ferry, crossed, 239 Churches. See Public buildings Churchmen, at tavern, 22 Cicero, allusion to, 48 Clackenbridge, verbose, 176 Clark, Miss, pleased in looks, 190 Clark, Dr. John, letter to, 140; a genius, 160; guest, 164; thinks for himself, 168 ; intended com- panion, 169 Clay, Th., host, 11 Clergy: Barclay, Henry, 77; Brown, Arthur, 153; Daven- port, James, 197 ; Holyoke, Ed- ward, 173; Hooper, William, 130; Malcolm, Alexander, 144; Miln, John, 57 ; Pemberton, 224; Philips, 175; Rogers, John, 149; Rou, Louis, 221; Whitefield, John, 8; Wye, 9; of Maryland, 3; criticised, 4; Mr. D — n, 3 ; as companion, 18 ; Presbyterian, 31 ; strange minister, 53 ; an old don, 98 ; questions about, 198; an old holder-forth, 234 Cleveland, of Scots parentage, 114 Clinton, Governor George, health drank, 50; returning from Al- bany, 70; rumors reach, 80, 97 ; a jolly toper, 106 Clock, mentioned, 202, 203, 205 Clowns, 199 Clubs : Drunken, 5 ; Governour's, 23, 30, 234; Hungarian, 49, 100, 106, 215; Music, 236; Philosophical Society, 23, 185 ; Physical, 140; Scots' Quarterly Society, 162; Selfish, 218 Cockburn's tavern, in Philadel- phia, 19, 232, 233, 236 Coffin, from Boston, 126 Cohoos Falls visited, 76 Colchoun (Colhoun, Dr. Alex- ander), surgeon at the fort, 49; called, 51; host, 55; back- gammon with, 55 ; at concert with, 57 Collins, surveyor, 78; dined with, 82 Colville, Colonel, visited, 241, 242 Conannicut, Island, at distance, 120, 121; ferry crossed, 122; passage to, 194 Conestogo, 40 Coney Island, on the road, 47 Connecticut, seen at distance, III; River, on return, 199; leaves state, 209 Constantine the Great, quoted, 32 Constitution Island, 93 Cook's Island (lona), burial- place of a cook, 65, 94 Corson, served fried clams, 46 Cosby, William, late Governor, 59 Coursey, Miss, dines with, 12, 241, 242 Cristin, ferry crossed, 16 Crowd, musical instrument, re- ferred to. 6 Crown jewels, 83 Cuckold's Town, Staten Island, 46 Cume's, Mrs., takes lodgings at, 21 ; takes tea with, 27, 30 ; meets church lady, 30; host, 232, 235 Curacao, gentleman from, 56, 216 Currency, discussion of, 179 Currie, at tavern, 22 ; companion, 34 ; dined with, 232, 236 Curtis's tavern, sign of Indian King, 13 ; landlady at, 14 Cashing, Matthew, librarian of Harvard, 173 Cuyler (Kuyler), Cornelius, Mayor of Albany, 79; dined with, 82 C — se, Parson of Maryland, 62 Dancing, 25, 178 Dancing Hall, dancers killed by Indians, 67 Darby, on the road, 237 Davenport, Rev. James, preach- ing of, 197 David, King, quoted, 61 Dedham, start for, 126; arrived at, 128; returned to, 180 Delancey, James, Chief Justice, 96, 212, 215 Delaware, ferry crossed, 35 ; river, 13 ; ferry, 231 Demosthenes, allusion to, 48 De Peyster, Abraham, guest of at club, 100 Derby, stopping place, 18 Dick of Noye, 202 Diseases: Ague, 193,233; cancer, 205; fever, 193, 244; hysterics, 217; rheumatism, 57; small- pox, 30 Doctors : Astruc, Jean, 105 ; Ays- cough, John, 105; Boerhaave, Herman, 62; Bond, Phineas, 23 ; Bond, Thomas, 21 ; Bou- chelle, 205; Brett, John, 124; Cadwallader, Thomas, 36; Clark, John, 140; Colhoun, Al- exander, 49; Douglass, Wil- liam, 132; Du Witt, 241; Far- quhar, 43 ; Gardiner, Sylvester, 175; Goddard, 196; Heister, Lorenz, 167; Hull, 115; Keith, 124; Magraw, John, loi ; Mann, 102 ; Millner, 241 ; Miln, John, 58; Mitchell, 233 ; Mof- fatt, Thomas, 124 ; Pitcairn, 162; Roseboom, 80; Salmon, 27; Spencer, 232; Thompson, Adam, 36 ; Zachary, Lloyd, 28 ; name not given, no, 181 Dodonoeus, Rumpertus, author, 81 Doepper's (Potladle, Polopel), Island, 67, 93 Domper, 215 Don Manuel, Spaniard, 191 Don Quixote, by Cervantes, 23 Dougherty's, public house at Newtown. 10 Doughty's Tavern, 210; daugh- ter, 211 Douglass, Dr. William, meets, 252 132, 136; a critic, 142, 160, 162; at Society, 162 ; harangue of, 167; criticised, 168; writings of, 179; mentioned in letter, 222 Douw, Volckert, nothing but Dutch, 86 ; devout, 91 ; a shal- low man, 96 Dream, 206 Drillincourt's "On Death" burned, 197 Dromo, servant, 27 ; questioned, 36; and Dutch negro girl, 47, 59 ; at the cable, 95 ; talks to skipper, 122 ; his room, 145 ; frightens children, 205 Dubois, Abraham, a Jew, 39 ; discusses religion, 40 Duchand's Tavern, 117, 196 Dulancie (Delancey), Oliver, house of. 62, 96 Dulany, Daniel, of Maryland, 84 Dumplin's rocks, 122 Dundee, Lord, fell in battle, 81 Dunder Barrack (Dunderberg), 65 Dutch, at tavern, 22; character of, 87; Island, 122; war with France, 215 Du Witt, doctor of Philadelphia, 241 D — n, minister at Joppa, 3 D — gs, a virtuoso, 4 Elias, allusion to, 189 Elizabethtown Point, on the road, 227 ; pass, 228 Elk, Ferry, crossed, 8; head of the, 12, 242 English, at tavern, 22 ; church, 24; character of ministers, 31 Enos, allusion to, 189 Epitaph, 99 Fairfield, on the road, 204 Faneuil Hall, visited, 135 Fanenil, Peter, presented hall to public, 13s Fanning, breakfast at, 113 Farquhar, Dr., called, 43 Feke, Robert, painter, 124 Ferry, Patapscoe, 2 ; Gunpowder, 3 ; Susquehanna, 7 ; Elk, 8 ; Bohemia, 9; Sassafrax, 10 ; Cristin, 16, 239; Skuylkill, 19; Raritan, 43 ; Narrows, 46 ; New York, 47; Conannicut, 122; Rhode Island, 122 ; Salem, 149 ; Newbury, 156; Lower, 158; Charlestown, 174; Providence, 183; Bristol, 183; Rhode Is- land, 183; Connanicut, 194; Narragansett, 194 ; New Lon- don, 196; Niantic, 198; Say- brook, 200; New Haven, 202; Stratford, 204 ; Delaware, 231 ; Shammany, 232 ; Skuylkill, 237 ; Susquehanna, 243 ; Gunpow- der, 244 Fielding, book by, 26 Fisher's Island, on the route, 117 Fisher's Tavern, sees Betty, 180 Five Nations, 40 Flanders, 215 Flat's tavern, kept by Irishman, no Fletcher, Captain, of Annapolis, 141 ; host, 141, 164 Fly, under the microscope, 194 Food, mentioned, 56, 89, 94, 108, 116, 134, 142, 165, 208, 210, 211, 212, 232 Foord's, stopping place, 16 Fork, eastern end of the island, "3 Fort, 154, 192 Fort Constitution, 154 Fort William and Mary, 154 Francis, Tench, a musician, 236 Frazer, in Branford, host, 202 Freemasons, 21 French priest, pursued by In- dians, 74 French war, anticipated, 22. See War Games, 55, 57, 217, 218 Gardiner, Boston merchant, 196 Gardiner, Dr. Sylvester, host, 175 Gardiner's Island, to the north- east, 116 Gensing, described, 4 ; looked for ,7 Gentiles, swine-eaters, 114 George, Indian King, 119 Germans, at tavern. 22 Gibbs's, breakfasted at, 204 Gilford, 201 ; passed through, 202 Gilman, Newlightman, 143 Gilpin, of Mar>land, 240, 241 Glasgow, reference to, 85 Goat Island, note, 123 Goddard, Dr., another guest, 196 Gooch, William, Governor of Virginia, 97 Government, discussion of, 33, 36, 107, 155, 177, 192 Governors : Bonharnois, of Can- ada, 73 ; Bladen, 50 ; Burnet, William, 147 ; Calvert, Charles, 236 ; Clinton, George, 50 ; Cosby, William, 59; Gooch, William, 97 ; Greene, William, 193 ; Mor- ris, Lewis, 35 ; Philips, Rich- ard, 167; Shirley, William, 177; Thomas, George, 28; Wentworth, Benning, 153 Governour's Club, guest at,23, 234 Grain, cultivated, 12, 16 Grant, a Scotch gentleman, 185 ; host, 187, 191 Grapes, 213 Green, Deacon, host, 198 Green, son of Deacon, 197 Green, Jonas, at Annapolis, 198 Greenberry's Point, 121 Greene, William, Governor R. I., 193 Greenwitch, on the Hudson, 61, 96 Grey, host, 160 Grierson, uncle of Dr. Magraw, lOI Griffin's stopping place. 156 Griffith,-of Rhode Island, 214 ; 239 Guneau, Mrs., lodging place, 129, 132, 134, 140, 142; returns to, 158; lodges at, 160, 163 Gunpowder Ferry, on the road, 3 ; crossed, 244 Gut, crossed, 116, 198 Hageman, Adrien, City Recorder, 96; at dinner, 212 Hake's Tavern, guest at, 181 Hamilton, Doctor Alexander, be gins journey, i ; purpose of, i ; meets Hart, i ; misses Hasell, 2 ; guest of Hart, 2 ; overtaken by Captain, 2 ; crosses ferry, 2 ; at Baltimore town, 3 ; Joppa, 3 ; gave advice, 3 ; encounters minister, 3 ; meets philosopher, 4 ; drunken club, 5 ; looks for ginseng, 7; meets Latin stu- dent, 9 ; meets parson, 9 ; meets acquaintance, 10; at Newtown, 11; dined with Miss Coursey, 12; at Newcastle, 16; Chester, 18; enters Philadelphia, 19; lodgings, 21 ; dines with mixed company, 23 ; on Quakers, 25 ; declaration of war, 28; char- acterizes Philadelphians, 32 ; goes to Bristol, 35 ; discusses religion, 38; through Prince- town, 39; to Kingstown, 39; with a philosopher, 42 ; eats fried clams, 46; at New York, 48 ; observations on New York. 5 1 ; starts for Albany, 58 ; hears discourse on doctors, 63 ; at Albany, 74 ; descrip- tion of Patroon, 75 ; leaves Albany, 85 ; descends the Hudson, 93 ; back to New York, 96; overhears conversa- tion, 97 ; hears epitaph, 99 ; at the club, 100; goes to Brook- haven, III: at New London, 117; sees Indian King, 119; at Newport, 122 ; mistaken for peddler, 127; at Dedham, 128; at Boston, 129 ; speech of Hen- drick, 137 ; visits Smibert, 139 ; Charlestown, 143 ; Marblehead, 144; Browne's country place, 148; Salem, 149; has compan- ion, 151 ; in New Hampshire, 152; Portsmouth, 153; at the fort, 154; talks French, 159; talks genius. 161 ; on van- ity, 164 ; a woman's opinion of, 170 ; on Darwin Theory, 171 ; at Cambridge, 173; describes Harvard, 174; leaves Boston, 180; at Dedham, 180; Provi- dence, 181 ; at Philosophical Club, 185 ; calls on ladies, 190 ; examines microscope, 194 ; meets counterfeiter, 194; New London, 196; Mr. Green on New Lights, 197 ; Dick of Noye asked about, 202; at New Ha- ven, 203 ; at Yale College, 203 ; Dromo frightens the children, 206; a "Rooseveltian" family, 208; oyster fisheries, 211; at New York, 212 ; on human na- ture, 213 ; strange customs, 216 ; at Jewish synagogue, 218 ; with a drunken doctor, 220 ; receives letters, 221; New Jersey, 228; on New York society, 228; Philadelphia, 233 ; predictions, 237; sees prodigy, 239; Miss Qiursey, 241 ; returns to Hart's, 245 ; returns home, 245 ; dis- tance travelled, 246; conclu- sion, 246 Hamilton, Andrew, father of John, 99 Hamilton, Colonel, son of John, 99 Hamilton, John, of New Jersey, 99 Hampstead, Plain, on the road, 108; churches of, 108; town of, 109 Hampton, on the road, 151 ; vis- ited, 15s ; described, 156 Hantick, now Niantic, ferry, 198 Harding (Haradine?), 172 Harrison, Mrs., a midwife, 245 Hart (near Bohemia), host, 1,2, 245 Hart, Mrs., a silent woman, 2 Harvard College, 149; note, 173; building of, 203 Hasell, expected companion, i ; goes to Philadelphia, 2 ; meets, 21 ; drank coffee with, 23 ; dines with, 26; in New York, 214, 215; meets, 219; breaks word with, 224, 227 Hassey, too little learning, 188; on the "Panama Canal," 189 Haylin (Haylingh?), 82; host, 83; drank with, 84 Haynson, Commodore, captures ship, 221 Hay Ruck (presumably Canada Hill), 66, 94 Heard's, stopping-place, 228 Heath, a dry old chap, 217 Heister, Dr. Lorenz, book of, 167 Henderson, a traveller, 200 Hendrick, Chief of Mohawks, 137 Hercules, Judgment of, painting, 124 Highlands, passed, 66, 92, 93, 94 Hill, dined at, 119, 172, 194; de- parts from, 195 Hippocrates, days of, 161 Hogarth, alluded to, 20 Hogg, Mr., sups with, 216, 217, 218, 219, 224 Hogg's, lodging place, stopped at, so, 57, 96, 100, 212, 214, 227 Holland, King Charles in, 75 Holland, Henry, the sheriff, 82 Hollingsworth's, stopping place, 12 Holyoke, Rev. Edward, Presi- dent Harvard College, 173 Home, Secretary of New Jersey, 49 ; dined with, 234 Homer, reference to Iliad, 160, 219, 220, 235 Hooper, Rev. William, 130, dined with, 132; attends meet- ing of, 133, 136, 139; host, 140; preaches, 159, 160, 162; meet- ings, 170, 171, 172; accompa- nies to Cambridge, 173 Horseneck, on the road, 208 Houses, Dutch, 13 ; at Wilming- ton, 16; general descriptions, 18, 39, 43, SI, 71, 87, 117, 119, 128; Browne's, 147; Berke- ley's, 188 Howard, Thomas, accompanies to Philadelphia, 13; merchant calls on, 16 Howell's Tavern, 149, 157 Hubbard, a stopping plac^ 113 Hughes, Samuel, a merchant, 129; companion, 131, 132, 133, 135; to Newport, 136, 163, 166; rides with, 169, 170; at Castle, 171; companion, 173, 175, 176; mentioned in letter, 222 Hull, Dr., trades with peddler, 1 1 5 Hungarian Club, guest of, 49; all bumper men, 106 ; hosts, 215 Huntington, on the road, no Hunt's, stopped at, 126 Hutchinson, Eliakim, 131 Hybane Island, now Wanton, 92 H — d, musician, 57; meets again, 100 H— y, N— y, 196 Indians, treaty with, 25 ; saluta- tion, 39; on way to make treaty, 40; massacre by, 67; king of, 71 ; Mohawks, 76 ; Cuyler and, 79; neighbors, 90; settlement of, iii; King George, 119; King Philip, 126; at churcli, 134; in Boston, 137; caravan of, 206; at oyster fish- ing, 211 lona Island. See Cook's Island, 65. Ipswich, people of, 146; visited, 149 ; returned to, 157 Irish, at tavern, 22 Irvin. Captain, 132 Islands: Staten, 46; Long Island, 47; Coney, 47; Shelter, 116; Gardiner's, 116, 174, 211; Fisher's, 117; Two-tree, 117 Jacobs, Jerry, asks name, 152 Jamaica, trader from, 30; stran- gers from, 55 ; negroes of, 56 ; Weemse from, 57 ; Frenchman from, 140, 216 Jamaica in Long Island, 108; church of, 205 Jameson, sheriff and story teller, 48 Jarvis's Tavern, 169 Jeffreys, custom officer, 53 ; dines with, 53 ; talks of fair sex, 54, 58; called, 216 Jew, at tavern, 22, 105 ; mistaken for, 114; synagogue of, 218 Jones, sheep of, 150 Jones Towne, near Baltimore town, 3 Joppa, village on the road, 3 ; on the road, 244 Katharine's Town, Staten Island, 4.6 Keith, Dr., an acquaintance, 124; on return, 187, 188; visits prison with, 190 Kemp (Comp), seat of High Germans, 92 Kenderhuick (Kinderhook), on the Hudson, 90 Killiecrankie, battle of, 81 Killingsworth, on the road, 201 King, family of, 115; handsome girl of, 116 King George II., health drank, 50, 239 Kingsbridge, on the road, 210 King's Chapel, description of, 133 Kingston, on the road, 230 Kingstown, near Princetown, 39 Kitterick, now Kittery, 154 Knockson, owner of sloop, 58; quiets the braggadocio, 61 ; met in New York, 219 Knox, son of a friend, 58; dines with, 224 Laughton, Henry, Boston mer- chant, 98; companion, 108, 114; breaks the Sabbath, 120; guest, 131, 164, 169 Law, Jonathan, Governor of Con- necticut, 209 Lay's lodging house, 201 Lechmere, Thomas, letters of credit on, 106; custom officer, 130; dined with, 133; at church, 134; host, 141; son of surveyor, 196; lady guests of, 197 Le Compte, host, 210 Lee, Colonel Thomas, of Vir- ginia, 28; accompanies Gov- ernor, 30 Lee, from Boston, 125; parted with, 126 256 Leech, Mrs., lodging place, 184; stranger at, 193 Le Jupiter, French prize, 103 Leonard's, tavern in Kingstown, 39, 230 Le Saint Frangois Xavier, French prize, 103 Letters, of credit, 20, 103, 106, 125, 131 ; to Annapolis, 2, 52, 134; to Dr. Moffatt, 224; to Moinnerie, 224; to Withered, 173; to Great Britain, 132; from Moinnerie, 223 Levy, violinist, 236 Lewis, an eastern Indian chief, 138 Leyden, referred to, 62 Lightfoot, of excellent sense, 127; scolded by Betty, 128; companion, 160; host, 170 Lighthouse, mentioned, 130, 175 Lightning, 207 Lilly's Grammar, quotation from, 9 Liquor: Punch, 2; sangaree, 3, 5; cider, 7; lemon punch, 11, 18; beer, 47; other drinks, 50, 54, 56, 58, 60, 61, 69, 70, 75, 82, 84, 96, loi, 104, 106, 108, 112, 128, 133, 140, 142, 148, 157, 166, 169, 171, 172, 187, 203, 211, 214, 217, 220, 228, 230, 236, 240 Lisbon, letters from, 214 Little Rock, on the promenade, 190 Little Sopus Island, passed, 70, .9? Livingston, fine house, 70 ; manor, 71 ; at tavern, 77 ; sermon for, 82 Lodgings, 21, 50, 115, 129 London, ships from expected, 221 Long Island, on the road, 47, 108, 215, 219 Long Reach, part of the Hudson, 68 Long Wharf, 163 Louis XIV, referred to, 74 Lovat, Lord, story of, 185 Lucretia, waitress, no Luffees, 90 Lutherans, at Albany, 89 Lynn, near the sea, 143 Lyon, Captain, of Rye Bridge, 208 Mackay, captain of a privateer, 23 ; at club, 30 Magraw, Dr. John, meets, loi, 214, 219 Mahometans, mistaken for, 114 Maidenhead, on the road, 231 Malbone, Captain Godfrey, has largest house in America, 125 ; on return, 184, 187 Malcolm, Rev. Alexander, host, 144 ; sermon by, 145 ; compan- ion, 146, 147, 148, 149; pleas- ant company, 157 Mangeau, Captain, 136 Mann, doctor on man-of-war, 102 Mann's Tavern, 126; returned to, 181 Marblehead, larger than Albany, 144; port of, 157; intended visit to, 157 Markets, 24, 78, 86, 123 Maryland, ministers criticised, 3 ; contrasted with Pennsyl- vania, IS; questions about, 23; ignorance of ministers, 32; brother in, 235 ; nearing, 238 ; returned to, 244 Mason, a Quaker, 228; asks price of cheese, 229; left, 231 Massachusetts Bay, province of, 126; currency of, 179 Mather, on religion, 199; Tav- ern, 237; departed from, 238 Matthews, Admiral, takes French vessels, 214 McGraa (see Magraw), Dr., a Teague, loi ; disputed with, 104 Methodists, at tavern, 22. See Religions Microscope, 194 Miller's Tavern, served pickled oysters, 43, 84; drank choco- late at, 230 Millford, arrived at, 204 Millner, quack doctor, 241 Miln, Rev. John (M — Is, or M— s), met at Todd's, 57; calls on, 58; on Albany sloop, 58, 59; dined with, 60; reads on microscopes, 62 ; character of, 62; observations of, 64; goes to tavern, 68; suspects French, 74 ; companion, 75, 79, 80; visited with, 80, 82; preaches, 82 ; takes leave of, 85 ; dines with in New York, 106 Miln, Mrs., old, jolly and fat, 58; good conversationalist, 81 Miln's Island, landed at, 73; re- turned to, 78 Missaque, Indian name of river, III Mitchell, doctor from Virginia, 233 Mochacander Indians, 71 Moffatt, Dr. Thomas, a school- fellow, 124; host, 125; letter from, 136; host, 184, 185, 187; at breakfast, 191, 194; letter from, 221 ; letter to, 224, 233 Mohawks, on way to make treaty, 40; religious sects of, 139 Mohooks Town, natives are Christians, 77 Moinnerie, Mons., new lodger, 140; talks French, 142, 158; conversed with, 159. 163; a visitor, 160, 164, 169, 172, 175 ; takes leave of, 180; letter from, 221, 222-223 ; letter to, 224 ; translated, 226 Monocosy, referred to, 7 Monson's Tavern, 203 ; public houses in general, 203 Montague Block Island, in view, 120 Montaigne, essays read, 22 Moore, Lambert, lawyer with more learning than judgment, 52, 212 Moore, Mrs., hostess, 114 Moravians, at tavern, 22; char- acterized, 69; discussed, 80 More's Tavern, baited at, 245 Morgan, famous philosopher, 41 ; discusses physick, 42; Miln on, 63 Morison, William, companion, 13 ; from Annapolis, 14; discussion with, 17 Morpang, French rover, feared, 118; news of, 142 Morris, Lewis, Governor, resi- dence, 35 ; praised, 36 Moses, allusion to, 41 Mount Burnet, Mr. Browne's home, 148 Mount Hope, King Philip's stronghold, 126 Murder Creek, scene of Indian massacre, 67, 92 Murlanin Island, now Rock Is- land, 92 Music Club, visits, 236 Music, reference to, 6, 25, 28, 29, 57, 8s, 100, 102, 134, 145, 169, 178, 218, 234, 236 Mystic, near Boston, 143 M— t, B— ie, 196 M— t, B— y, 232 Namur, siege of, 83 Nantique (Nantic), Indian town, 199 Naragantset ferry, see Conanni- cut, 122; crossed, 194 Narrows, crossed, 47, 66 Negroes, 229 Negro plot, New York, 57 Neilson, of Philadelphia, met, 238 Neilson's, breakfasted at, 234 Newberry, on the way to, 150; arrived at, 151; crossed ferry, 151, 156 Newcastle, Hasell takes chaise to, 2 ; road avoided, 12, 13 ; news of Hasell, 16; visited, 154: on the road, 239, 240 New England, coasting vessel of, 103 New Hampshire, entered, 152; described, 155 New Haven, crossed ferry, 202; described, 203 ; College at, 203 New-light, religion, 8; at tav- 3 em, 22 ; pun on, 40 ; a tailor, 68; stories of, 121, 197 New London, described, 117; de- parted from, 118; crossed ferry of, 118, 196, departed from, 198 Newport, prizes at, 120; crossed to, 122 ; description of, 123 ; women of, 123 ; returned to, 184 ; people of, 191 ; letter to, 224 ; letter from, 233 New Rochelle, on the road, 210 Newton. Sir Isaac, alluded to, 105, 189 Newtown, on the road, i ; road to, 10; returned to, 244 New York, war news from, 28; prepares trip to, 30; arrives at, 48; described, 51 ; buildings of, 51; women of, 52; returns to, 96 ; government, 107 ; water of, 107; women of, 108; arrived at, 212; compared with Eng- land, 213 ; ships of, 221 ; de- parted from, 228; reflections on, 228 Nicolls's Tavern, 123, 184 Nightcaps, 164 Noise, Captain, met, 118 Northeast, on the road, 8; in- tended for, 242 ; arrived at, 243 North River, weighed anchor at, 59 Norwalk, on the road, 205 ; de- parted from, 207 Noyes, Captain Oliver, 169 Nussman's Island, ran aground on, 71 ; on the return, 90 Nutting Island (Governor's Is- land), took spring water, 59; why so called, 59 Occupations, different ones men- tioned, 17, 31, 36, SI, 88, 93, 110, 114, 144, 177, 242, 243 Onions, 209 Oswego, troops sent to, 87 Overton, seller of works of art, 183 Oxford, England, 127 Oyster Pond, set sail from, 116 Paintings, 124; of Smibert, 139; of hermit, 220. See also Art Parker, Benjamin, Boston mer- chant, 98; companion, 108; wants to cure sick girl, 109; makes courtship, no; as cap- tain, 112, 114; captivated, 116, 131 ; guest, 164, 169; good wine with, 172 Pasher, Captain, 140 Patapscoe, road to, i ; ferry, 2, 244; crossed ferry, 245 Patroon, 75 Patuxent, reference to, 126 Peach, owner of schooner, 166 ; host, 168; rides with, 169, 170 Peddler, 196 Pemberton, preaches, 224 Pemberton, Samuel, Judge, 190 Pennsylvania, contrasted with Maryland, 15 ; characterized, 32. 33 Perth Amboy, on the road, 43 ; breakfasted, 44 ; Amboy de- scribed, 44 Peters, Richard, Secretary, 28; read proclamations, 29 Peters's tavern, a pretty girl there, 109 Petty, captain, a six-foot humpy, 132 Philadelphia, described, 19 ; churches of, 20 ; public build- ings, 20 ; dames of, 34 ; de- parted from, 34; stone bridges near, 34; privateer of, 96, 216, 232 ; entered, 232, 233 ; leaves, 237 Philip, noted Indian king, 126 Philips, chaplain, 175 Philips, house of, 63 Philips, Richard, Governor, 167 Philipse, Adolphus, at the club, 215 Philosophical Club, 185 Philosophy, discussed, 4, 21, 41, 164, 170 Phoebe, Indian girl, no Physic, discussed, 36, 75, 81, 115, 164 Physical Club, guest of, 140, 142, 167 Pipe, mentioned, 200, 219 Piscataquay, intended visit to, 140; passed, 229 Pistols, carried, 152, 183, 220 Pitcairn, and Boerhaave, 162 Placentia, news of, 131 Poets, English, 23 Politics, discussed, 3, 17, 22, 36, 53, 219, 233, 238, 240 Pope, death of, 221 Portsmouth, intended visit to, 140; company to, 151; place mistaken for, 152; arrived at, 153; described, 153; departed from, 155 ; harbor of, 157 Poughkeepsie, a small village, 68 ; on return, 92 Prec Stone, or preaching stone, 72 Presbyterians, at tavern, 22; churches of, 24 ; clergy dis- cussed, 31 ; in New Jersey, 45. See Religions Prices, 33 Princetown, on the road, 39 Principio, iron works, 8 Privateers, reference to, 23, 30, 44, 90, 96, 103, III. 116, 123, 131, 166, 192, 204, 212, 214 221 Products, different ones men- tioned, 34, 38, 59. 64, 73, 107, 177, 229 Proverbs, 4, 32, 208 Providence, described, 181 ; crossed ferry, 183 Public buildings, 13, 18; of Phil- adelphia, 20, 24, 27; on the way, 45, 71, 82, 86, 108, 113, 123, 133, 145 Purcell. lately dead, 98; epitaph of, 99 P — r, of Annapolis, 141 Quaker, entertains, 19; at tav- ern, 22 ; edifices, 24 ; in New Jersey. 36 ; others met, 45, 238 Queen of Sheba, 243 Quevedo's visions, read, 116 Quiet, Thomas, crossed ferry with, 7 ; impugns doctrines, 8 ; left behind, 8 Quin, a musician, 236 Rabelais, allusion to, 5 Ransbeck (Rhinebeck), a Ger- man town, 71 Ranslaer, 'Cobus, had a sawmill run by water, 72 ; Jeremiah, the Patroon, 74 ; character- ized, 75; host, 75, 77, 78; Ste- phen, brother of Patroon, 76; host, 79, 80, 83, 84 Raritan, forded river, 43, 230 Razolini, Onorio, presented with manuscript, last page Reid's Tavern, at Marblehead, 144 Religions, mentioned, 8, 13, 19, 20, 22, 24, 30, 36, 37, 40, 45, 68, 77, 89, 114. 121, 123, 136, 139, 143, 177. 178, 192, 204, 235, 236, 238, 243 Rhae, a merchant, 220, 227 ; companion, 228, 230, 231, 232, 233 Rhode Island, privateers of, 120; ferry of. 122; description of, 123; Sabbath of, 195; letters to, 221. 222, 223 Roads : Patapscoe, i ; from Joppa, 5 ; hilly, 6 ; Newcastle, 12 ; Elk, 12; descriptions of, 34, 38, 45, 47, 109. 125, 204, 207, 208, 210, 230, 238. 243 Robin's Tavern, 126; departed from, 128 Rogers Island. See Vanskruik, 91 Rogers, Rev. John, delivered let- ters to, 149; on return. 157 Rogers's Tavern, kept by Wil- liam Rogers, 244 Rollin's Belles Lettres read. 85 Roman Chapel, sees pretty girls at, 234 Rose Island, one tree, 122 Roseboom, a physician, 80 Rou, Rev. Louis (Rue), at French church, 221 260 Ruiz, Paul, 196; is seen, 216 Rye Bridge, passed, 209 Sabbath, observance of, 120, 184, 195 Sagatick River, forded, 205 Salem, visited, 146; returned to, 148; described, 149; ferry crossed, 149; traveller to, 156; returns to, 157; fort at, 157 Salmon, Dr., allusion to, 27 Sassafrax Ferry, crossed, 10; River, 173 Sawmill, 72 Schenectady, visited, 78 School, 78 Schuyler, Mrs., a widow, 80 Schuyler, Colonel Peter, host, 77 Scotland, religion in, 31 Scots, at tavern, 22 ; at club, 185 Scots' Quarterly Society, guest of, 162 Scots Willie, once a soldier, 81 Scott, Walter, 83, note Scran, host, 201 ; in Queen Anne's War, 201 Scrotum, Captain, comical, 22 Seabrook Ferry, 199, 200; town, 200 Setoquet, Indian name of Brook- haven, III Seventh-day men. See New Light Sewall, Stephen, host, 146 ; lodged with, 149; out of town, IS7 Shaftesbury, Earl of, 124 Shakesburrough, a half hewn doctor, 78 Shakespear, read, 232; Timon of Athens, 235 Shamany (Neshaminy), ferry, 34; crossed, 232 Shelter Island, cleared, 116 Sherlock's writings burned, 197 Ship Tavern, 146, 148, 157 Shirley, William, Governor, 177 Simmonds, of South Carolina, 175 Singleton, John, farm of, 151 Skuylkill, crosses ferry, 19, 237 Slake's Tavern, 126 Slater, Mrs., lodged at, 153 Sleigh, 95 Smibert, John, visits studio of, 139, 164 Smith, a would-be privateer, iii ; tricks of, 112 Smith, Timothy, companion, 13; discussion with, 17 Smith's, lodged at, 243 Smithtown River, forded, iii Snake, 94 Solomon, Indian guide, 76 Solomon, King, quoted, 61 Sopus, village famous for its beer, 70; creek of, 92 Sound, rode by, 115, 198, 199, 203 Southhold, town of, 114 South Kingstown, same as Tower Hill, 120, 194 Spaniards, 216 Spencer, Dr., lecturer, 232 Spenser, Faerie Queene alluded to, 119 Spider, 194 Spinet. See Music Spratt, Major John, piece of an- tiquity, 98; in the company, 106; shows painting, 220 Stamford, on the road, 207 Stanespring, seven rustic chil- dren, 64 State House. See Public Build- ings Staten Island, description of, 45 Stevenson, Scots gentleman, 80 St. John Indians, 127, 138 Stonington, properly named, 118; on the road, 196 Stratford, crossed ferry, 204; town, 204 Streets, of Philadelphia, 19, 24 ; of Bristol, 35 ; described, 45, 50, 51, 86, 141, 177 Strider, 236 Sugar Loaf, a conical hill, iig Sun Tavern, 140, 142, 162 Susquehanna, ginseng region, 4 ; ferry, 7, 243 Synagogue, 218 261 Tasker, commission to, 236 Taverns : Altum's, 242 ; Angell's, 182; Benjamin's, 204; Bond's, 36, 231; Brown's, 3; Bu- chanan's, III ; Case's, 120, 194; Choat's, 156; Cockburn's, 19; Curtis's, 13; Fanning's, 113; Flat's, 110; Foord's, 16; Grif- fin's, 156; Hake's, 181; Hart's, I : Hill's, 194; Hollingsworth's, 12; Jarvis's, 169; Leonard's, 39; Mann's, 126, 181 ; Mather's, 237; Miller's, 84; Monson's, 203 ; NicoU's, 123, 184 ; Peters's, 109; Reid's, 144; Robins's, 126; Rogers's, 244; Ship, 146; Slake's, 126; Sun, 108, 140, 162; Swan, 143; Thomas's, 18; Todd's, 49; Tradaway's, 4, 244; Van Bibber's, 12, 239, Waghorn's, 48, 106, 212; Wal- ton's, 35, 231 ; Withered's, 136 Taylor, stopping place, 205 Teague, a genuine one, 85, 240 Tenbroeck (Tansbrook), Dirck, dined with, 82 Terence, composed a book, 9 Terence, the ferryman, 242 Theology, 148 Thetis, 226 Thomas, George, Governor, 25 ; proclaimed war, 28; character of, 33 ; house of, 35 ; mill of, 35 Thomas's tavern, 18 Thompson, Dr. Adam, 36 Thomson, stopped at, 118; names of children, 119; re- turned to, 195 Thunder Hill, same as Dunder Barrack, 65 Tillotson's Sermons burned, 197 Titles, 201 Tobacco, 142, 148 Todd's tavern, goes to, 49; with Dr. Colchoun, 51 ; dines at, 52, 54; Todd drunk, 54; dined at, 55 ; raspberries served, 56 ; dines at, 57, 58; trouble with Dutch, 58; returns to, 96; pumped, 97; with Miln at, 106; calls at, 212; dines at, 214, 216, 217, 218, 219, 220, 221, 224, 227 Tower Hill, a good view from, 120 Tradaway's Tavern, 4, 244 Trenton, visited, 35 ; departed from, 38; country about, 39; on the road, 231 Trinity Church, New York, 96 Trophies, 124 Trueman, Captain from Antigua, 118 Turtle Bay, fleet in, 211 Two-tree Island, seen at dis- tance, 117 Tyng, Edward, captures pri- vateer, 90 ; hero in the war, 128; vessel taken by, 131 Usher, clergyman, 16; compan- ion, 18 Usurer, 131 Vanbibber's, not on the road, 12; stopped at, 240; maids at, 240 Van Bummill, Marcus, a drunk passenger, 60; on doctors, 63; reads the Bible, 64; on his darling theme, 67; leaves the sloop, 68 Van Dames, host, 60 Vanderbank, Dutch artist, 148 Vans, Hugh, called, 135; lives with, 136 Vanskruik, peninsula of, 91 Verulam, Lord, alluded to, 189 Villain, 195 Violin. See Music Virginia, 215, 220 V — bles, an anti-mason, 21 Wachusett Mountain, seen at dis- tance, 148 Wade, Gen. George, story of, 185 Waghorn's tavern, topers' head- quarters, 48; stops at, 97, 106, 212, 219 Wallace, companion, 34; attends church with, 234, 236 262 Walpole, Sir Robert, allusion to, 15 Walton's tavern, 35; breakfasted at, 231 Wampum, 88 Wanton, Gideon, treasurer, 191 War, French, 6, 17, 28; Queen Anne's, 116, 201 Warren, Commodore, 97; cap- tured French prizes, 103 ; ves- sel of, 211, 230 Waterhouse, Boston privateer, 166 Waters, Captain, travels with, 4 Watts, John, a visitor, 100 ; dined with, 234 Weak, Ebenezer, host, 207 Weemse, of Jamaica, 57; dined with, 232; goes to Roman Chapel with, 234 Wendall, from Boston, 102; mu- sic of, 103, 106 Wendall, Captain Jacob, meets, 131, 132; host, 136; with In- dians, 137 Wendall (Wendel?), master of sloop, 84; sloop of, 8s Wentworth, Benning, Governor, 153 ; took leave of, 155 West Indies, money from, 88 White, a Philadelphian, 229, 230, 231 Whitefield, Rev. John, allusion to, 8; church, 20; church of, 24 ; preaching, 69 ; sermons of, 91 ; effects of preaching, 147 ; his conduct, 199 Whitehall, a public house, 187 Widows, 201 Wigs, 164, 181 William, King, 162 Williams, Captain, 187; meets, 188; host, 189 Williams, Major, breakfasted with, 118; host, 196; departed from, 196 Williams, Mrs., patronizes ped- dler, 196 Williams, James, a fisherman, 93 Wilmington, passed, 16 Wilson, an impudent fellow, ?5 Withered, Miss, an agreeable lady, 172; letter of, 173 Withered's Tavern, dined at, 131, 136; meets a doctor at, 140, 142, 160, 162, 163, 166, 167, 170, 172, 174, 175, 176 Women, a silent one, 2; Miss Coursey, 12; landlady, 14; and scandal, 27 ; in general, 30, 39, 48, 52, 53, 61, 108, 110, iig, 124, 133, 150, 158, 163, 167, 168, 172, 178, 185, 197, 210, 227, 234, 239 Woodberry, claimed superhuman powers, 146 Woodbridge, Staten Island, 46; on the road, 228 Wrentham, on return, 181 W — b, a lawyer, 11 Wye, Parson, 9, 242 Yale College, 203 York, Ferry, crosses with a charming woman, 48; sees is- land of, 95, 96; crosses ferry, 108; Government, 210; island, 211 ; departs from, 227 York, village in New Hamp- shire, 155 Zachary, Dr. Lloyd, host, 28 Zenzindorff, Count, founder of sect, 69 263 The following memorandum in the handwriting of the author appears in the back of the original manuscript : Presented by Alexander Hamilton, Doctor of Medicine, to Onorio Razolini. Annapolis, Nov. 2g, 1744. i / ■i t \