Avery Architectural and Fine Arts Library Gift oi Seymour B. Durst Old York Library Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2013 http://archive.org/details/pontchartrainiacOOhath PONTCHARTRAINIA Coordinated with the Birth of Detroit J brief and interesting historical sketch of that ill u s t rio us Soldi e r- Explorer Antoine di l a Mothe Cadillac together with the recital of the difficulties encountered by the founder of Detroit in his successful attempt to establish the city of the Straits By Charles S. Hathaway Detroit Issued by The Hotel Pontchartrain PONTCHAKTRAIN HOTEL COMPANY DETROIT USA h T VVV PONTC H ARTRAINI A Coordinated witL t L e Birth of Detroit By Charles S. Hathaway For centuries and including the first three decades of the seventeenth century, ''The Land of the Neutrals" was a territory well known to the aborigines of North America. In this district the relentlessly vindictive Iroquois Indians of Central New York State, could meet and mingle in peace with their perpetual foes, the Algonquins of the Tadousac and Quebec countries, the Hurons of the Ottawa River section, the Pottawattomies and Miamis of the Michigan and Indiana neighborhoods, the Illinois, Sacs, Foxes and all tl e other tribes west and north of the Great Lakes region. This "Land of the Neutrals" was embodied in what is now known as the Ontario peninsula, bounded by the lakes Ontario, Erie and Huron, the rivers Detroit and St. Clair, the lake St. Clair and the Georgian Bay. This territory was inhabited by many tribes of Indians, who, with an agricultural bent and as shrewd, industrious and enterprising hunters and trappers, had voluntarily sequestered themselves to follow and maintain the ways of peace. Incidentally they were successful as traders, acting as "middle men" between the two great nations, the Algonquins and the Iroquois. Not until the arrival of an exploring expedition headed by Samuel Champlain in 1615, had white men visited the "Land of the Neutrals." As a missionary priest he had gone on ahead of Champlain and his companions, traversing the weird Ottawa river route with its thirty portages, from the river St. Lawrence to Georgian Bay. Thence, from the mouth of the French river, he traveled south along the eastern shore of the great bay to its smaller inset at the northern boundary of what is now known as Simcoe County, Ontario. First among these white men to look upon the waters of Georgian Bay and its greater source, Lake Huron, was the Rev. Fr. Joseph Le Caron, a member of the Recollet branch of the Franciscan Brotherhood. Father Le Caron Establishing Missions Here he was overtaken, very shortly, by Champlain and his companions. At this point, also, he found a long-used canoe route leading 60 or more miles inland to the south and into the very heart of the "Land of the Neutrals/' Isolated in a section far away from the ages old war paths of the Iroquois and the Algonquins, leading north and south, he found several well built villages, surrounded by cultivated fields. He found the Neutrals an intelligent, industrious people. They were amicable, energetic and treated their white visitor kindly. It was an ideal opening for missionary work. Accordingly, Father Le Caron began the establishing of mis- sions — the first stations of that character successfully located in the Great Lakes region. During the summer of 1616 Father Le Caron returned to France. The reports he submitted to his superiors were largely responsible for the coming to Canada during the next decade, of a score or more of missionary priests — Franciscans and Jesuits. Bearing in mind that this entire record was made nearly three generations before any settlement at Detroit was made by Europeans, it is offered in the belief that it will add zest to the story of the founding of Detroit and the part taken therein by the two Counts de Pontchartrain. Eighteen years before the birth of Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac, a boy baby was born in Paris. And in 1661* this young- ster had so progressed that he was admitted as a member of the Parliament of Paris. In 1677 this man, known as Louis Phely- peaux, Count de Pontchartrain, was made chief president of the Parliament of Brittany, and he administered the affairs of that province with great success. In 1687 he became Intendant of Finance for the whole kingdom of France. Upon the death of M. Seignelay, son of the eminent Colbert, in 1690, the Count de Pontchartrain succeeded him as Secretary of State. This office he held with credit to himself and profit for his king until 1699, when he was made Chancellor of France. He was a man of great ability, and in his official life displayed patriotic zeal and devotion, strict justice and unbending integrity. He was fond of letters and the patron of authors. t In the various official capacities named the Count de Pont- chartrain had an exceptional opportunity for becoming acquainted with French Colonial affairs in Canada. He knew accurately, as Intendant of Finance, as to the contentions between his government and the trading companies in Canada. He was well informed as to the explorations by La Salle, Joliet, Marquette, Hennepin, Tonty, Iberville, Duluth and all the rest of those pioneer searchers and wanderers. As a member of the Court at Versailles he must have been informed as to the military schools at Paris in 1676, when the founder of Detroit became a cadet in the army of France. Still more likely he was *Tanguay gives this year as the one during which Cadillac was born, tjesuit Relations, Vol. LXVII, p. 343. Father Li Caron Making a Portage apt to have had knowledge in 1677, that young Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac had been appointed a lieutenant in the regiment of Clairembault. Doubtless, too, the elder Count de Pontchartrain had cognizance of Cadillac's trial by court martial, at Quebec in 168G; as, also, he must have had official knowledge of the land grant to Cadillac, in 1689, of the island of Mt. Desert and an entire six miles square on the mainland east of and abreast of Mt. Desert. All of these incidents in the early life of Cadillac, suggest, at least, reasons why the elder Count Pontchartrain, together with his son, Jerome, figured so pronouncedly, in after years, as steadfast admirers and influential friends of the founder of Fort Pontchar- train — the original name bestowed upon the location now known as Detroit. Cadillac not only established the name of Fort Pontchartrain upon the settlement he made here in 1701, but he continued the application and use of that name all through the nine years (1701- 10) he remained here as commandant. In all of his memorials to Louis XIV. and to the governors of Canada, in all reports he sub- mitted and in all of his correspondence,* while in charge of affairs at this point, he maintained the use of the title, "Fort Pontchar- train." More than that, he protested the use, by some others — mainly his civil, military and religious opponents — of the name "Detroit." In the year 1690, M. Jerome Phelypeaux, Count de Pontchartrain, the younger, was made *See "Cadillac Papers," Michigan Pioneer Collection, Vol. 33; also Sheldon's "Early History of Michigan." In 1836, the late Gen. Lewis Cass caused copies to be made of these papers, while he was U. S. Minister to France. These were used in the history by Mr. Sheldon. About a decade ago, Mr. C. M. Burton, Detroit's . eminent historiographer, caused translations of these papers to be made in Paris. More complete and more accurate than the Cass copies, they were published in the Michigan Pioneer Collection. Antoine de la Moihe Cadillac Minister of Marine of France. In this capacity, he had absolute authority over all military affairs in French Colonial possessions. As it appears today, it seems strangely coincidental that the first military and naval venture to confront Count de Pontchartrain, the new Minister of Marine, came as a complete failure. Also that the disappointment involved Sieur de la Mothe Cadillac. In 1689 Governor Callieres of Montreal, while in Paris, laid a plan for the capture of New York, before Jean Baptiste Colbert, Marquis of Seignelay, who was the Minister of Marine. This plan was referred to and approved by the King. Count de Frontenac had just been reappointed to act, for the second time, as governor of Canada. Callieres' plan involved the sending of two well-manned battle- ships to New York late in the summer of 1689, there to await the coming of a land force under Callieres — via Lake Champlain and the Hudson river — and the two forces, military and naval, were to attack New York simultaneously. Rear Admiral Caffiniere sailed for the mouth of the river St. Lawrence, in command of two ships, the Le Fourgon and U Embuscade, in August, 1689. With him sailed Count de Frontenac, who was returning to resume his old post as governor of Canada. They arrived at Chedabouctou, September 12. Cadillac's FVije and Children Captured Here Frontenacwas transferred to the ship St, Francis Xavier and sailed up the river for Quebec. Then Admiral Caffiniere steered for Port Royal (Annapolis, Nova Scotia) in accord with orders from M. Seignelay. The Rear Admiral had never visited New York and the Minister of Marine deemed it wise to obtain a person well acquainted with the sailing courses, headlands and harbors along the New England coast, to act as pilot of the expedition. Sieur Cadillac had been married at Quebec, June 25, 1687, to Mile. Marie Therese Guyon. With his wife he had moved to Annapolis. With that port as his home he had put in two or three years, as an associate of Francois Guyon of Beauport, an uncle of his bride and a privateer — a quasi member of the French naval service. In this capacity Cadillac had frequently sailed the entire American coast from Anticosti Island to Cape May and Delaware Bay. He knew the shore currents, the soundings, the dangerous shoals and headlands. He had visited New York and Boston, made sketches of their plans and fortifications. Accordingly Cadillac had been recommended to Admiral Caffiniere, to act as pilot in approaching New York harbor. Hence the Admiral sailed to Port Poyal, where he engaged Cadillac as pilot. Together they sailed to New York Bay. There they waited patiently for news from the military force expected overland. It did not come. The season was late and the early presence of exceptionally cold weather caused Caffiniere to "up anchor and away" for France. Cadillac accompanied him. Meanwhile M. Seignelay had died. When Admiral Caffiniere and Sieur Cadillac reached Paris, during the first week in the year 1690, they were required to report to Count Louis Pontchartrain, who had succeeded the late M. Seignelay as Secretary of State. Also they reported to Count Jerome Pont chart rain, who, through his fathers influence, had been made Minister of Marine. Cadillac landed at Rocheford on the 29th of December, 1689, and accompanying Admiral Cafliniere, proceeded directly to Paris. During the next seven months he was frequently invited to appear before the Court at Versailles. He it was upon whom Count de Pontchartrain and his admiral depended for accurate facts and enlightenment as to the military resources and conditions in New England. He it was, who was able to depict, clearly, the difficulties to be encountered in attempting an overland march from Quebec to New York. During this stay in Paris, Annapolis had been captured by the English Admiral, Phipps. Cadillac's wife and children had been captured and taken as prisoners to Boston and his house and its contents had been destroyed. On the 3rd of November, 1690, the elder Count de Pontchar- train — as Cadillac was about to sail for Canada — addressed a note to Count Frontenac, the governor, as follows: "Sieur de la Mothe Cadillac, a gentleman of Acadia, having been ordered to embark for the service of the King, on the Embuscade, which vessel had brought him to France, His Majesty being informed that during his absence his habitation was ruined — hopes that Frontenac, the new governor of Canada, will find it con- venient to give him such employment as he may find proper for his services, and that he will assist him as he can." And so Cadillac left Old France, leaving a new but firm friend in Count de Pontchartrain, Secretary of State, to return to New France and an old and well beloved friend in Count de Frontenac, Governor of Canada. But Count de Pontchartrain and his King clung to the project of subduing New Lt Fo"»rgon and England, and in April, 1692, Louis XIV. directed Cadillac to come to Paris and furnish information on the subject because, as the order set forth, "he is the best instructed on these points" — that is to say as to the means of defense at Boston and New York and the most expeditious and certain methods for overcoming the same. Cadillac responded to the call and submitted an exhaustive report on the subject to Count Pontchartrain.* In this report he advised the construction of light draft vessels to repel invaders who might attempt to gain control of the river St. Lawrence. The King directed the secret construction of such a fleet and that command of the same should be given to Cadillac. The future founder of Fort Pontchartrain returned to Canada but the expected invasion did not materialize. The fleet was not built. In 1693, on the recommendation of Count de Frontenac, approved by Count de Pontchartrain, the King bestowed a donation of 1,500 livres upon Cadillac, in recognition of his loyalty and valuable services. Next, in rapid succession, he was, in 1694, created an ensign of the navy and captain of troops because, as Governor Frontenac expressed it, Cadillac "was a man of distinction, full of valor and capable." Almost immediately, also, he was made commandant at Macki- nac, where he served with credit to himself, for four years, when he asked to be relieved. Meanwhile he had conferred with both Frontenac and Pont- chartrain relative to the establishment of a military post and permanent French colony on "The Strait," a short distance above Lake Erie. The project received the approval of both the Minister of Marine (Count Pontchartrain) and Count Frontenac, Governor of Canada. Count Frontenac did not live to see the carrying out of his protege's projtct, as he died November 25, 1698. ♦Mr. C. M. Burton in his "Sketch of the Life of Cadillac" (1895), says: "This report is still in the French Archives and has been printed in part in the Maine Historical Collections (Vol. VI) and in the Revue Canadienne, but I have nowhere seen a complete copy." Fort Mackinac He was succeeded by M. de Callieres, who did not favor Cadillac's proposition. Count de Pontchartrain, the superior officer above de Callieres, remained steadfast in his friendship for Cadillac and approved of the plan to establish a fort, trading post and colony on "The Strait." The result was that Louis XIV., urged on by de Pontchar- train, issued a commission to Cadillac, authorizing him to carry out his proposed enterprise.* Thus it came about, after eleven years of intimate, official acquaintance with Count de Pontchartrain, the elder, and with his son, that Cadillac arrived at the site of the present city of Detroit, on the 23rd of July, 1701. He was accompanied by 50 French soldiers and 50 French civilians — farmers, artisans, hunters, coureur de bois and borgemen. They brought with them supplies for three months. Clearly Louis XIV., his ministers, the two Counts Pontchartrain and Count Frontenac, royal representative in Canada, were pri- marily and chiefly responsible for Cadillac's success. But the founder of Detroit was a man of great ability. The eminent French archivist, M. Margry, speaking of Cadillac, says he had the best of instruction, clear ideas concerning politics, military affairs, colonization and the royal power in its relations with the church, and displayed excellent ability in his relations with the Indians. What more natural, in the light of foregoing facts, than was Cadillac's choice of the name of Pontchartrain as the title of his new establishment? What more natural than was the persistence with which he adhered to the name "Fort Pontchartrain," through the nine years he was commandant at that post? *Mr. C. M. Burton in his "Sketch of the Life of Cadillac," says: "The friendship that sprung up between Cadillac and the Minister Pontchartrain lasted a lifetime, and both of the Pontchartrains felt a thorough dependence on the reports they received from him." ) ) Finally, was it not a happy thought which prompted the bestowal of the name "Hotel Pont- chartrain" upon the largest, best planned, best equipped and best conducted hotel in the North Central States? The reflection that more than two centuries were permitted to elapse before any public institution in Detroit was named in memory of the man, Count de Pontchartrain, Secretary of State for Louis XIV., prompts the inquiry: What did Cadillac find at this point upon his arrival, and why did he land in the vicinity of the area where he erected his "Fort Pontchartrain"? Mr. C. M. Burton, who has gone more deeply into the early history of Detroit than any other investigator, locates "Fort Pontchartrain" — a palisaded area of about two acres — as having its south boundary practically along the north line of Jefferson Avenue, its eastern boundary along the west line of Griswold Street, its western boundary not far west of the present line of Shelby Street and its northern boundary very near to the south line of Larned Street. Possessing copies of all the land conveyances made by Cadillac, Mr. Burton has constructed a map of Detroit as it was in 1708. And in order to prove the accuracy of this map, he had it traced upon a city map of the present time. Thus he found lot lines still serving as boundary lines of present buildings, coinciding very nearly with the Cadillac conveyances.* (The location of Fort Pontchartrain as above indicated, is one square west and two square^ south of the Hotel Pontchartrain.) At the time of Cadillac's coming, the river front in its shore line was decidedly different from what it is today. It was further *C. M. Burton's "Detroit Under Cadillac" (1896), p. 7. to the north from 50 to 200 feet, along its curving limits, from a point about at the foot of Rivard Street, down to the foot of Shelby Street. There was a narrow beach along this distance and then the bank raised gradually until about 150 feet from the water's edge it reached an elevation of about 30 feet above water level. At the foot of Shelby Street the river bank turned rather sharply to the northwest with sharp upward slopes both to the north and east. This turn, with the adjacent course of the small and now extinct River Savoyard, formed a cove, which was, doubtless, long used by the Indians as a convenient and protected landing place.* Somewhere in this cove — probably near the present foot of Shelby Street — Cadillac made his landing. That the Counts de Pontchartrain and the Count de Frontenac did not mislead their King, Louis XIV., by their continued faith in and support of Cadillac, is shown as follows: Within a year from the time of his landing, the founder of our city wrote to Count de Pontchartrain: "All that I have the honor to state to you has been done in one year, without its having cost the King a cent and without costing the Company (organized in Quebec and Paris by Cadillac and on the authority of the King) more than it ought; and in twelve months we have put ourselves in a position to do without provisions from Canada forever — and all this undertaking was carried out with three months provisions which I took when I set out from Montreal and which were consumed in the course The present-day Jefferson Avenue slope to the west and the abrupt slope on Shelby Street from Jefferson Avenue to Woodbridge Street, indicate in a general way the formation of the old-time cove. When the old Ste. Anne's Church, at Larned and Bates Streets was built (1818-28), the limestone of which its walls were made was brought on barges from the Detroit River up the River Savoyard to the corner of Griswold and Congress Streets. Count Pontchartrain of the journey. This proves whether Detroit (The Strait) is a desirable or an undesirable country." "Besides this, nearly six thousand mouths of different tribes wintered here, as everyone knows. This is the Paradise of North America."* And today — the summer of 1913, two hundred and twelve years after the lily of France was raised over the palisades of Fort Pontchartrain, there stands in Detroit — the only memorial in the city in honor of the senior Count de Pontchartrain, the great French statesman — the Hotel Pontchartrain. ♦"Cadillac Papers," Michigan Pioneer Collection, Vol. 33. HOTEL PONTCHARTRAIX George H. Woolley \V. J. Chittenden, Jr. Managers Old English Dining Room Louis XV. Dining Room Flamingo R o o m Cor r idor Entrance Designed, Engravings, and Printed Joseph Mack Printing House Detroit