ACME QUALITY Painting Guide Book A Ci'uide Hook of Information for Painters, Decorators, Architects, Con¬ tractors and Householders by the makers of Look around your home, select some surface that requires refinishing, then refer to index upon pages two and three to find place in book where information is given for finishing such surfaces. This will enable you to ask your dealer for the proper kind and amount of material required. Copyrighted 1916 by Acme White Lead and Color Works Detroit Michigan USA Classics i AVERY LILh. ...V COLUMBIA UNIVElwiiY Contents Page Exterior House Painting. 9 General remarks regarding the best materials to use. 9 Painting new wooden buildings. 13 Re-painting wooden buildings. 15 Painting brick buildings. 17 Painting shingle roofs. 18 Painting tin and metal roofs. 19 Staining shingle roofs. 20 Painting porch floors or steps. 20 Painting blinds or shutters. 21 Window sash. 21 Exteriors of doors. 21 Painting Barns, Fences and Outbuildings. 23 Interior Woodwork. . 24 V'arnishing new woodwork. 24 Re-varnishing old woodwork. 26 Staining new woodwork. 27 Staining old woodwork.'. 28 Enameling new woodwork. 30 Enameling old woodwork. 31 Floors. 32 Varnishing new floors. 32 Re-varnishing floors. 3 3 Waxing new floors. 33 Re-waxing floors. 34 Staining and varnishing new floors. 34 Filling cracks in floors. 35 Staining and varnishing old floors. 35 Painting new floors. 37 Painting old floors never painted before. 37 Re-painting old floors. 37 Painting cement floors. 37 Varnishing linoleum. 38 Walls and Ceilings. 39 Enameling walls and ceiling that are new or have not been finished before.. 39 Enameling walls and ceilings that have been finished before. 39 Flat Oil Painted Finish for walls and ceilings. 40 Tiffany Blends, stenciis and hand-painted effects. 42 Kalsomining. 42 Re-Finishing Furniture. 43 Varnishing furniture. . 43 Staining furniture. 44 Staining and varnishing furniture at one application. 46 Co n te n ts— C on ti n u eel Re-Finishing Furniture—Continued Page Waxing furniture. 47 Enameling furniture. 47 Painting furniture. 48 Polishing varnished surfaces. 4S Picture Frames, Bric-a-Brac, Etc. 49 Varnishing. 49 Staining. 49 Staining and varnishing at one application. 49 Waxing. 50 Enameling. 50 Radiators, Stoves and Other Metal Surfaces. 51 Radiators, steam and water pipes. 51 Stoves, ranges, stove pipes, etc. 51 Wrought iron work. 52 Bath-Tubs and Surfaces Exposed to Water and Steam. 53 Carriages, Autos, Wagons and Other Vehicles. 54 Carriages and automobiles. 54 Re-finishing carriage and auto tops. 55 Enameling bicycles. 55 Wagons and farm implements. . 5 5 Screens, Porch Furniture, Garden Tools and Blackboards. 56 Window and door screens. 56 Lawn and porch furniture. 56 Garden tools and implements. 57 Blackboards. 57 Row Boats, Canoes, Launches, Sail Boats and Yachts. 58 Canoes. 58 Row boats. 59 Motor boats, launches, sail boats and yachts. 59 Painting decks and floors. 59 Varnishing decks and floors. 60 Finishing spars. 61 Finishing machinery, fittings, pipe rails, stanchions, awning frames, etc.... 61 Finishing cabins and upper works. 61 Finishing hulls.62-63 Enameling hulls. 62 Definitions of Technical Terms. 64 Helpful Hints for Home Painters. 65 A List of Acme Quality Paints and Finishes mentioned in this Guide-Book and sizes and colors in which they are sold... 67 Brushes. 71 i Acme White Lead and Color Works, Detroit, Michigan, U. Home of Acme Quality—The Largest Paint and Varnish Plant in the World Acme Quality Paints, Enamels, Stains and Varnishes Wonderful development has been made during recent years in the manu¬ facture of Paints, Enamels, Stains and Varnishes, prepared ready for use. Twenty-five years ago the knowledge required to prepare and combine materials ready for application was confined to a very limited number. To-day the knowledge and facilities of that time appear both limited and crude. It would then have been deemed im¬ possible to present in forms ready for use, Paints and Varnishes adapted for all classes and descriptions of work, such as are now offered in The Acme Quality Kind. The Practical Painter and Decorator of to-day has many advantages over his predecessors. He finds ready at hand the materials best suited for any work he may wish to do. He finds it much better prepared and of superior quality than could possibly be produced by grinding, mixing and combining by hand as his predecessors were forced to do. He finds that the labor and ex¬ pense of preparing materials have been greatly reduced, while quality and efficiency have been improved. He finds his knowledge of the proper ma¬ terials to use and his skill in applying them, are fully supported by Acme Quality Paints and Finishes, which are the highest quality of materials that can be produced under modern conditions. The Householder also finds it possible to secure Acme Quality Paints, En¬ amels, Stains and Varnishes perfectly adapted for finishing woodwork, furni¬ ture, floors and articles of every de¬ scription in and about the home. These materials are offered in cans of all sizes, plainly labeled and with definite and simple directions for use, that render it possible for any inexperienced person to secure satisfactory results. Acme Quality products have become a household necessity, and the best dealers carry a complete line in stock, have color cards to make selections from, and are thoroughly informed on the proper materials to use for all pur¬ poses. The householder is thus able to keep the many surfaces about the home that are constantly becoming marred and shabby, in perfect condi¬ tion, with very little trouble or expense. We have classified the contents of this book so as to enable the reader to quickly find out the proper Acme Quality materials for finishing or re¬ finishing any surface in any manner desired. The proper ways to obtain satisfactory results are fully explained. This information is not guess work, but the result of the practical experience of thoroughly competent and practical men with Acme Quality products. To obtain Acme Quality results insist upon securing Acme Quality Paints and Finishes Acme White Lead and Color Works Detroit Michigan USA I ART WOOD FINISH! VAR NOTILE Enamel veranda floor Pdinl YELLOW Neal's totairfonsu House RiVlKOHOlBlAO' H/hit£ Perfect Finishes for All Surfaces If it’s a surface to be painted, enameled, stained, varnished or finished in any way, there’s an Acme Quality Kind to fit the purpose. For the best re¬ sults from painting and finishing materials insist that the Acme Quality trade mark be on the label Surfaces In and About the Home that May be Re-1 Finished We have compi led the following list complete index on pages two and three. of articles and surfaces in and about We have tried to ma ke the list complete, the home that should be re-finished but may have overlooked some article. occasionally with Acme Quality Paints S uggestion. Invited. One quart of any and Finishes. C orrect directions are kind of Acme Quality • Paint or Finish will given in this bool c for finishing in any be sent free, carriage charges prepaid, to desired style, also the kind and amount the first person advising us of a surface in of material needed. This information or about the home that can be re-finished may be quickly found by consulting the and which is not included in this list. Andirons— Broom Handles Coat Hangers Fans wrought iron Broom Holders Coffee Grinders Feed Troughs or Boxes Apiary Broom Racks Cold Frames Fences Aquariums Brush Handles Collars Fenders Arbors Brush Holders Collar Boxes Firearms Artificial bait Buckets Columns Fire Escapes Artificial limbs Buffets Commodes Fire Extinguishers Arbors Buggies Concrete Work Fire Fronts Ash Cans Buggy Tops Conductor Pipes Fireless Cookers Autos Bulk-heads Consoles Fire Places Auto Tops Burlap Cots Fire Screens Aviary Butter Bowls Couches Fire Shovels Awning Frames Cabinets Counters Fishing Poles Axes Cages Cradles Flag Staffs Baby Boxes Cameras Cream Separators Flashlights Baby Buggies Canes Cribs Floats Baby J umpers Candelabras Croquet Sets Floors, cement Baby Pens Candlesticks Crutches Floors, wood Baby Walkers Canisters Cuff Boxes Flour Bins Barns C anoes Cupboards Flower Boxes Barrels Cans Curtain Poles Flower Pots Baseball Bats Carpet Sweepers Curtain Stretchers Flower Stands Baskets Carriages Cuspidors Flue Stops Bath Tubs Carriage Tops Cutters Foot Baths Bath Tub Seats Cases Cycle Cars Foot Scrapers Beds, metal Ceilings Dashboards Foundations Beds, wood Cellarettes Davenports Fountains Bee-hives Cement Work Decoys Frames Beer Cases Chairs Dog Houses Front Doors Belfry Chamber Pails Doll Houses Funnels Bell Posts Chandeliers Domes Furnaces Benches Chests Door Checks Furnace Pipes Bicycles Chicken Coops Doors, outside Furniture Bins Chiffoniers Doors, inside Galvanized Iron Work Bird Cages Chimney Corners Door Plates Games Bird Houses Chimneys Door Screens Game Boards Blackboards China Cabinets Down Spouts Garages Blinds Churns Drain Pipes Garage Floors, cement Blotter Pads Cisterns Dressers Garbage Pails Blowers Clocks, wooden Dumb-bells Garden Tools and Boats Clocks, wrought iron Dumb-waiters Implements Book Cases Clothes Hampers Dust Pans Gas Fixtures Boot Blacking Stands Clothesline Reels Easels Gas Generators Boot Jacks C lothes Poles Eavetroughs Gasoline Cans Boxes Clothes Racks Egg Cases Gas Pipes Brackets Closet Seats Electrical Equipment Gates, iron Bread Boards Closet Shelves Elevators Gates, wood Bread Boxes Coal Boxes Engines Go-Carts Bric-a-brac Coal Hods Evaporators Golf Sticks Brooders Coal Scuttles Express Wagons Granaries Grape Arbors Grates Grating Grill Work Grinders Guns Gutters Hair Brushes Hall Trees Hammers Hampers Handkerchief Boxes Handles Harness Hat Racks Hearth Stones Heaters Heating Drums Hinges Hitching Posts, wood Hitching Posts, iron Hooks Horse Blocks Hose Reels Hot-Beds Hot Plates House Numbers Houses Humidors Ice Boxes Ice Cream Freezers Ice Cream Buckets Ice Houses Implements, farm Incinerators Incubators Indian Clubs Indicators Ink Stands Inside Steps Ironing Boards Jardinier Stands Kitchen Cabinets Knobs Kodaks Ladders Lamps Lamp Shades Lanterns Lattice Laundry Tubs Lavatories Lawn Furniture Lawn Mowers Leather Goods Letter Holders Letter Files Lightning Rods Linen Chests Linoleum Locks Lounges Machines Mail Boxes Mantels Matting Match Safes Measures Medicine Chests Metal Door Mats Milk Cans Milk Houses Mills Mirror Frames Mop Handles Motors Motor Boats Motorcycles Mouldings Mounting Blocks Music Boxes Music Cabinets Musical Instruments Niches Oars Oil Stoves Oil Tanks Organs Out Buildings Outside Steps Ovens Paddles Paint Boxes Pans Pantry Shelves Parasols Pencils Pedestals Pen Holders Perambulators Phonographs Pianos Piano Players Piano Seats Picture Frames Picture Moulding Pigeon Coops Pipes Plate Racks Plate Rails Porch Boxes Porch Floors Porch Furniture Porch Screens Posts Poultry Roosts Pulleys Pumps Push Buttons Pyrography Pieces Racks Radiators Railings Rain Barrels Rain Coats Rakes Ranges Refrigerators Registers Reservoirs Rings Roof Cresting Roofs Row Boat Motors Rubber Goods Rulers Saddles Safes Sap Buckets Satchels Saws Saw-horses Scales Screens (window and door) Sewing Cabinets Sewing Machines Sewing Tables Shades Shelves Shirt Waist Boxes Shoe Blacking Cases Shovels Show Cases Shutters Sideboards Side cars Signs Silos Sinks Sitz Sleds, children’s Sleighs Smoking Cabinets Smoke Houses Smoking Sets Smoke Stacks Snow Shovels Sofas Spades Springs Sprinklers Stable Fixtures Stables Stairs Stands Stationery Boxes Statuary Steam Pipes Steps, inside Steps, outside Steps, iron Step Ladders Stones Stools Storm Doors Storm Porches Stoves Stove Boards Stovepipe Collars Stove Pipes Street Numbers Sugar Bins Suit Cases Swings Switch Boards Tables Tabourets Tanks Tea Wagons Telephone Exchanges Telephone Posts Telephones Tennis Racquets Tent Poles Thermometers Tie Racks Toilet Seats Tools Tool Chests Toys Towel Racks Traps Trap Nests T rays Tree Guards Trellises Tricycles Tripods Trunks Typewriter Covers Typewriters Umbrellas Umbrella Stands Urns Vacuum Cleaners Vases Vehicles Ventilators Violins Wagons Walls Wall Paper Wardrobes Wash Basins Washing Machines Wash-tubs Water Buckets Water Coolers Water Hydrants Water Pipes Water Tanks Watering Troughs Weather Vanes Well Curbs or Weil Houses What-Nots Wheelbarrows Wicker Furniture Window Blinds Window' Boxes Window Frames Window Locks Window Panes Window' Refrigerators Window Sash Window Screens Window Seats Window Shades Window Sills Wind Mills Wine Cases Wood Boxes Woodwork Wringers Writing Boards Writing Desks 8 I Exterior House Painting The Best Material to Use The impression still prevails to a very considerable extent in the minds of the general public that white lead (carbonate of lead) is the best white paint for exterior painting. It is a fact, however, that a combination of white lead and zinc oxide makes a much better paint, while the highest authorities and most experienced and progressive paint manufacturers, after careful investigation and exhaustive tests, have proved to their entire sat¬ isfaction that the tvry best results (durability and covering capacity), are obtained by the addition of a percentage of reinforcing pigment to the lead and zinc. These ingredients must be thoroughly amalgamated by means of powerful machinery and fine grinding. To them must be added the life-giving ingredient of all good paints —pure linseed oil—and sufficient dryer to insure proper drying qualities. Tints, Shades and Colors must be made with a perfect knowledge of the chemical properties and activities of each ingredient. There are certain tints that can not be made upon a base of white lead alone without causing a chemical action which would result in the paint changing color and destroying its wearing properties. There are cer¬ tain colors (such as oxides) in which carbonate of lead and zinc white are never used. There are other colors, (greens, reds, blues) in which carbonate of lead and zinc oxide either can not be used at all, or must be used in small quantities, in order to secure satis¬ factory results. It is entirely wrong, therefore, to assume that a paint is adulterated because an analysis shows either no white lead or zinc oxide or a very small proportion of one or both of these ingredients. We fully recog¬ nize the good qualities of carbonate of lead and oxide of zinc and use each as freely as we can where they may be employed without disadvantage to the wearing and spreading properties, non¬ fading qualities, beauty and uniformity of the paint. Undoubtedly conditions of climate, character of surface to be painted, and other factors to be considered, render it impossible for any manufacturer to honestly state that any particular material is always the best under all circumstances. To obtain the best re¬ sults in each instance, proper judgment must be exercised. We prefer, there¬ fore, that for so important a matter as the exterior painting of a building, the skill and experience of a practical 9 painter be enlisted. We know, how¬ ever, that in the variety of products we manufacture he can consistently and conscientiously recommend or use Description Acme Quality Strictly Pure White Lead —This is a stiff paste consisting of pure carbonate of lead ground very fine in pure linseed oil. It must be reduced to the proper consistency for use by the addition of pure linseed oil, turpentine, dryer and color, and requires the skill and experience of a practical painter to insure the best results. The superior opacity (hiding power) of white lead is generally ad¬ mitted. It will not, however, wear as long under exposure as when combined with zinc oxide, nor will it cover as much surface per gallon. Acme Quality Strictly Pure While Lead is absolutely pure, of the most approved chemical and physical constitution and of a whiteness, density and covering power exceeding that of any other make of white lead. Michigan Seal White (Acme Quality ) —This is a combination composed principally of lead and zinc, with the addition of reinforcing pigment. It is ground and put up in the same manner as white lead. It also requires the skill of a practical painter to prepare for application. This brand is favored by those painters who recognize that a white of this character makes a better paint for general purposes than white lead alone, possesses superior wearing qualities, will spread further, and is also better adapted to resist the action of gases, salt water and sea air. Acme Quality House Paint —In this paint, white lead, zinc oxide and rein¬ forcing pigments are used in proportions which give the very best results. Acme some Acme Quality product. Below we describe in detail the methods for using our products, and outline what may be accomplished by them. of Materials House Paint is finely ground and reduced to a consistency ready }or use with pure refined linseed oil, to which is added tur¬ pentine, dryer and the finest colors. Many advantages are derived from its use by the practical painter, and particularly by the consumer who can not readily secure the services of a skilled painter, and may wish to apply it himself. With the exception of the addition of linseed oil or turpentine for undercoats, the paint may simply be stirred and applied as it comes in the can. To the practical painter it means the saving of the time and expense of reducing lead, or lead and zinc, to the form of paint ready for use. Our special facili¬ ties and the large quantities in which Acme Quality House Paint is made, en¬ able us to reduce the mixing and tinting, in fact every step in the process, to an exact science, with no chance for varia¬ tion. Again, we make all our own colors and know them to be uniform in shade and strength. The chemical properties of every tint, shade and color are carefully considered in order to prevent any chemical re-action that would destroy the durability, covering properties, or beauty of the paint. Every ingredient is tested before use. There is no opportunity for variation in our product. Our facilities enable us to supply the practical painter with mixed paint of the best quality at a lower price than he can prepare it him¬ self, and he can secure exactly as much as he requires for any job, as it is put up in all sizes from barrels to half pints. 10 I Color Combinations Care should be exercised in selecting shades, as under certain conditions colors which harmonize perfectly would not be desirable. Select shades that will harmonize with your neighbors’ but not be identical with theirs. Con¬ trast is desirable in a neighborhood. Light shades lend prominence to a building. If your home is screened by trees or shrubberv, the lighter colors will make it stand out more stronglv. The style of architecture and the sur¬ roundings should receive consideration. Summer cottages, for instance, which arc usually built for pleasure or pas¬ time, are given a brighter and more cheerful aspect by the lighter and brighter shades and tints. A stately city home in a prominent position would appear "illy dressed” in the gayer colors used for a summer cottage. It requires something more sedate to convey the tone of simple elegance which the owner and architect intended. If it’s a surface to be painted, enameled, stained, varnished or finished in any way, there’s an Acme Quality Kind to fit the purpose. 11 ! Painting New Wooden Buildings To l sc Acme Quality Strictly Pure- White Lead Importance of the Priming Coat —The rirst coat of paint on new work is called the “priming coat.” It is important that new wood be given a coat of paint as soon after being placed in position as possible. This prevents the wood from absorbing moisture, which, when dried out by the atmosphere and sun would cause the lumber to warp or crack. If this moisture were covered with paint, it would have the same effect on the lumber and would also cause the paint to peel off. Good paint will prevent moisture from getting in, but it can not prevent it from getting out. As the priming coat is the foundation for subsequent coats, it is important that it be of good quality and with plenty of pure raw linseed oil to penetrate the wood. Too often, cheap ochres ground in impure oil and wholly un¬ suited for the purpose, are used, with the result that the following coats (even when of good quality) suffer be¬ cause of the false economy of using poor material for the most important coat of all. Priming Coat for Galvanized Iron — When galvanized iron is used for cor¬ nices, gutters, etc., it should be primed with our Acme Quality Iron Primer. In the process of manufacture galva¬ nized iron is subjected to treatment which renders it impossible for ordinary paint to cling to it properly, hence, we supply a special primer for this purpose. One gallon of Acme Quality Iron Primer will cover about 900 to 1000 square feet. Xumber of Coats Required —A new wooden building should always be given three coats of paint. The first, or priming coat, should be very thin and two more coats are needed to prop¬ erly cover the wood—no matter what kind of paint is used. When only two coats of paint are used—one priming coat and one finishing coat— it is neces¬ sary to make the priming coat so thick, in order to cover the wood, that the paint does not have the proper elas¬ ticity and is almost certain to crack or peel off. Priming Coat of Acme Quality Strictly Pure White Lead —Before applying priming coat always cover knots and sappy places with Acme Quality Shellac. Otherwise the heat of the sun would draw out the sap, thus removing the paint. Reduce the White Lead with pure raw linseed oil in the proportion of five gallons to each 100 pounds of lead, adding also one quart of strong turpentine dryer (Acme Quality N Japan Dryer is best) and one-half gallon of tuqrentine. If wood is very resinous or pitchy add from one quart to one-half gallon of benzole, omitting a corresponding amount of linseed oil. When reduced to proper consistency, tint with color in oil (Acme Quality Colors in Oil—Master Painters’) to a shade that will form a good ground for fol¬ lowing coats. One hundred pounds of White Lead reduced as above will make S’4 gallons of paint, and cover about 500 square feet to the gallon. All wood in buildings subjected to outside ex¬ posure should be primed in this manner, including shingles, if they are to be painted. Tin gutters and water pipes should also be primed as above out¬ lined. Second Coal of Quality Strictly Pure White Lead —See that priming coat is perfectly dry, then carefully putty all nail holes, cracks and blem¬ ishes in the wood. Use good putty 13 that will not shrink and fall out—Acme Quality preferred. Reduce White Lead by adding 3)4 gallons of pure raw linseed oil and one quart of strong tur¬ pentine dryer (Acme Quality N Japan Dryer is best) and one quart of turpentine to each one hundred pounds of White Lead. When reduced, tint with color in oil (Acme Quality Colors in Oil—Master Painters’) to the exact shade required. If more than one color is to be used apply to each part of house the same shade that will be used for the finishing coat. One hundred pounds of White Lead reduced as above will make 6)4 gallons of paint and cover about 560 to 600 square feet to the gallon. Third Coat of Acme Quality Strictly Cure White Lead —Reduce in the same manner as for second coat, except that turpentine may be omitted. The cov¬ ering capacity is the same as for second coat. To Use Michigan Seal White (Acme Quality) Exactly the same process must be observed as when Acme Quality Pure White Lead is used, except that more raw linseed oil may be added. The priming coat will require six gallons to 100 pounds; the second and third coats, 4 gallons. When reduced for priming, 100 pounds will make 914 gallons of paint and cover about 500 square feet to the gallon on new wood. When reduced for second coat, 100 pounds will make gallons of paint and cover 600 to 700 square feet to the gallon over the priming coat. For the third coat, (turpentine omitted) it will make 7)4 gallons of paint and cover from 600 to 700 square feet to the gallon. To Use Acme Quality House Paint Priming Coat oj Acme Quality House Paint —See remarks "Importance of the Priming Coat” on page 13. Before applying priming coat, always cover knots and sappy places with shellac. Prime with the same color as will be used for the finishing coats. If surface to be painted is soft and porous, such as white wood or white pine, reduc e each gallon of New Era Paint with from one-half to one gallon of pure raw linseed oil and one pint of turpentine. If wood is of a pitchy nature, such as southern pine, cypress, Oregon fur, etc., reduce each gallon of the paint with one quart of raw linseed oil, one quart of pure turpentine and one-half pint of benzole. If benzole cannot be secured, add three pints of turpentine. One gallon of Acme Quality House Paint reduced with a gallon of pure raw linseed oil (making two gallons of paint) will cover from 800 to 1000 square feet on wood sur¬ faces, depending upon the absorbent quality of the wood. For Tin Gutters and Water Pipes — Reduce paint by the addition of one quart of oil and one pint of turpentine to a gallon of paint. Second Coal of Acme Quality House Paint —Before applying the second coat, carefully putty all nail holes, cracks and blemishes in the surface of the wood. Use good putty that will not shrink and fall out—Acme Quality preferred. Ter each gallon of Acme Quality House Paint add one and one-half to three pints of pure raw linseed oil and one-half to one pint of turpentine. The turpentine cuts the gloss and enables the following coat to adhere more firmly and prevents "crawling.” The exact amount of re¬ ducer varies according to the shade— dark colors taking more oil than light ones. Use the same shade on each part of the house as will be used for the finishing coat. One gallon reduced as above will cover about 1000 squaie feet of surface over priming coat. Third Coat of Acme Quality House Paint —Apply paint reduced by the ad¬ dition of from one-half pint to one pint of pure raw linseed oil to the gallon of paint. One gallon will cover about 800 square feet. 14 * Re-Painting Wooden Buildings I o l si- Acme Quality Strictly Pure White Lead First Coal oj Acme Quality Strictly Parc While Lead —Remove any loose paint with scraper or wire brush. This is important, as loose paint left on surface will soon come off and bring the new paint with it. If surface has not been painted for a long time and is very por¬ ous, add for each 100 pounds of White Lead, 4 1 o gallons of pure raw linseed oil, one quart of turpentine and one quart of strong turpentine drycr(Acme Quality N Japan Dryer preferred). Reduced in this way 100 pounds of White Lead will make 7)4 gallons of paint and cover about 500 square feet to the gallon. If surface is smooth and hard add 3 J4 gal¬ lons of pure raw linseed oil, one quart of strong turpentine dryer—-(Acme Quality X Japan Dryer) and one quart of tur¬ pentine. Reduced in this manner 100 pounds of White Lead will make (SJA gallons of j>aint and cover 550 to (500 square feet to the gallon. When re¬ duced, tint with colors in oil (Acme Quality Colors in Oil—Master Painters’) to the exact shade desired. If more than one color is to be used, apply the same shade to each part of the house as will be used for the finishing coat. Second Coat of Acme Quality Strictly Pure White Lead —We strongly advo¬ cate two coats over old work, as the oil in the first coat is largely absorbed by the old paint and sufficient oil is not left in the new paint film to insure dura¬ bility. Putty nail holes and cracks that may require it before applying second coat. Add 3)4 gallons of pure raw linseed oil and one quart of strong turpentine dryer—(Acme Quality N Japan Dryer) for each 100 pounds of White Lead. One hundred pounds reduced in this way will make 6)4 gallons of paint and cover 550 to 600 square feet to the gallon. When reduced tint with colors in oil (Acme Quality Colors in Oil—Master Painters’) to the shade, or shades, desired. To Use Michigan Seal White (Acme Quality) Exactly the same process must be observed for the first and second coats as when Acme Quality Strictly Pure White Lead is used, except that more raw linseed oil must be added. The first coat will require, when surface is very old and porous, 5)4 gallons to 100 pounds; if hard and in good condi¬ tion, 4)4 gallons. The second coat will require 4)4 gallons to 100 pounds. When reduced with 5)4 gallons of oil (for first coat) and the necessary dryer and turpentine, 100 pounds will make 8*4 gallons of paint, that will cover about COO square feet to the gallon. When reduced with 4)4 gallons of oil (for first coat when surface is in good condition) with turpentine and dryer added, 100 pounds will make 7)4 gal¬ lons and cover COO to 700 square feet to the gallon. .Vs reduced for second coat (turpentine omitted) 100 pounds will make 7)4 gallons of paint and cover from 600 to 700 square feet per gallon. To Use Acme Quality House Paint First Coat of Acme Quality House Paint— Remove all loose paint from the surface to be painted. If surface is very porous, add one-half gallon of pure raw linseed oil and one pint of turpentine for each gallon of paint. One gallon reduced in this manner will cover 800 to 1000 square feet. If surface is smooth and hard, add from one to three pints of pure raw linseed oil and one-half to one pint of pure turpen¬ tine. The latter assists penetration and prevents crawling of following coats. 15 > A gallon on such a surface will cover 700 to 800 square feet. Apply the same color to each part of building as will be used for finishing coat. Second Coat oj Acme Quality House Paint —We advocate two coats over old work, as the oil in first coat is largely absorbed by the old paint and sufficient oil is not left in the new paint film to insure durability. Reduce paint by the addition of from one-half pint to one pint of pure raw linseed oil to each gallon of paint. A gallon will cover about 800 square feet. Brick buildings are painted to secure a surface that will not absorb moisture, and to give a uniform appearance to the bricks. They are usually painted to show a flat finish (dull, without gloss). finish is equally serviceable, but is apt to call attention to defects in the surface. Following we give in¬ structions for obtaining either a flat or gloss finish. Painting Brick Buildings A gloss Flat Finish for Brick Buildings Never Painted Before Flat Brick Color is intended to imitate both the color and the dull appearance of brick. The Priming Coat Priming with Acme Quality Strictly Pure White Lead —Reduce by adding five gallons of pure raw linseed oil and one quart of strong turpentine drver to 100 pounds of White Lead. When reduced, tint to about the same shade as the finishing coat with color in oil (Acme Quality Colors in Oil— Master Painters’). This will make 7% gallons of paint and cover on bare brick about SOO square feet to the gallon. Priming with Michigan Seal White {Acme Quality) —Reduce in the same manner as for Acme Quality Pure White Lead, except that six gallons of raw linseed oil may be used. This will make 9 gallons of paint and cover on bare brick about 400 square feet to the gallon. Priming with Acme Quality Venetian Oxide in Oil —Reduce the Venetian Oxide in Oil by the addition of from five to eight gallons of pure raw linseed oil and one quart of strong turpentine dryer to 100 pounds of the Oxide. This will make from ten to thirteen gallons of paint and cover about 000 square feet to the gallon. Priming with Acme Quality House Paint —Use paint of a shade similar to the finishing color (No. 120 is best), re¬ ducing gallon for gallon with pure raw linseed oil. One gallon of paint reduced in this manner will cover about 600 square feet on bare brick. The Second Coat Use Acme Quality Flat brick Color for the second or finishing coat. This is offered in paste form and must be reduced with turpentine in proportion of 5 gallons to 100 pounds. This will make 10 gallons of paint and will cover 600 square feet to the gallon. Flat Finish for Brick Buildings That Have Been Painted Before Unless in bad condition, one coat of same as second coat for new work. If Acme Quality Flat Brick Color will be in bad condition, priming coat should be sufficient, and should be applied the first applied same as with new work. 17 Gloss Finish for Brick Buildings Never Painted Before The Priming Coat is the same as when a flat finish is desired. See page 17. To Use Acme Quality Strictly Pure White Lead The Second Coat —Add '-P/ 2 gallons of pure raw linseed oil and one quart strong turpentine dryer (Acme Quality N. Japan Dryer) for each 100 pounds of White Lead. This will make 6 JJ gallons of paint and cover 550 to 000 square feet to the gallon. When reduced, tint with colors in oil (Acme Quality Colors in Oil— Master Painters’) to the shade desired. To Use Michigan Seal White (Acme Quality) Reduce and tint in the same manner as for Acme Quality Strictly Pure White Lead, except that more raw linseed oil must be added. Add 4p£ gallons of oil and one quart of dryer to each 100 pounds of Michigan Seal White. This will make gallons of paint and cover 000 to 700 square feet to the gallon. To Use Acme Quality House Paint Reduce by adding from one-half pint to one pint of linseed oil to each gallon of paint A gallon will cover about 800 square feet. Gloss Finish for Brick Buildings That Have Been Painted Before Unless in bad condition, one coat will be sufficient. Apply same as second coat of Acme Quality Pure White Lead, Michigan Seal White or Acme Quality House Paint. If surface is in bad con¬ dition, apply two coats in the same way as for brick buildings that have not been previously painted Roofs Importance of Protecting the Roof — It is a noteworthy fact that the roofs of buildings receive less protection from the elements than any other part of a structure. This is all wrong. Xo part of the building is subjected to so great exposure as the roof, and it should be the last to go without protection from rain and shine. There are two ways of finishing the roof—painting and stain¬ ing. As a protective measure, painting is the best: from the standpoint of beauty, the rich shades and artistic tones which may be secured in stains are preferable. In the Acme Quality line we offer both. Painting Shingle Roofs To Use Acme Quality Strictly Pure White Lead Priming Coat —Follow directions for priming coat for new wooden build¬ ings (page 13). However, the paint will not cover more than 225 or 250 square feet to the gallon, as shingles are much more absorbent than siding. Second Coat —Follow directions for third coat for new wooden buildings (page 14). Covering capacity will be about 400 square feet to the gallon. To IJsc Michigan Seal W hite (Acme Quality Priming Coal —Follow directions for priming coat for new wooden buildings (page 14). The covering capacity will be 275 to 300 square feet to the gallon. Second Coat —Follow the same direc¬ tions as given for third coat for new wooden buildings (page 14). Covering capacity will be about 500 square feet to the gallon. To Use Acme Quality House Paint Priming Coat —Add one gallon raw linseed oil and one pint of turpentine for every gallon of paint, using same color as for finishing coat. Brush paint out well, carefully covering ends. One gallon reduced in this manner will cover 600 square feet. Second Coal —Reduce by adding from one-half pint to one pint of raw linseed oil to each gallon of paint. One gallon will cover about 400 to 500 square feet. To Use Acme Quality Barn and Roof Paint Priming Coat jor Xew Snrjaccs —Add one gallon of pure raw linseed oil, and from one-half to three-quarters of a gallon Painting Tin a Priming Coat —All brands of paint recommended for shingle roofs may be used for tin and metal roofs, but do not attempt to use Shingle Stain for this purpose. For priming coat, owing to the non-absorbent nature of surface, they do not require as much reduc¬ ing as when applied upon wood, but should be reduced and applied in the same way as for second coat on wood. Their covering capacity for priming of pure turpentine or benzine to each gal¬ lon of paint. Brush this out, being careful to cover the ends and edges of the shingles. One gallon of Acme Quality Barn and Roof Paint reduced in this manner will cover about 450 square feet of surface on bare shingles. Second Coat —Reduce Acme Quality Barn and Roof Paint by adding one gallon of pure raw linseed oil to each gallon of paint. One gallon reduced in this manner will cover about 800 square feet of surface on second coat work. Acme Quality Graphite Compound (In Liquid Form) Is sometimes used for shingle roofs, particularly in the vicinity of sulphur springs, gas wells, and where exposed to salt water or air. It resists acids, alkalies, sulphur or gas fumes remark¬ ably well. It is offered in natura' graphite color only, which is a very deep greenish black. Reduce with one-half gallon of pure raw linseed oil to each gallon of paint. One gallon reduced will cover about 250 square feet on bare shingles. Acme Quality Graphite Compound is also furnished in paste form. nd Metal Roofs coat, on account of the non-absorbent surface of tin and metal and the flat surface, is about double the covering capacity as upon shingles. Second Coat should be applied the same as second coat upon shingles. Covering capacity of all the brands is from 10 per cent to 20 per cent more than covering capacity upon shingles, as no allowance need be made for ends and sides of shingles. 19 i Staining Shingle Roofs New Work First Coat of Acme Quality Shingle Stain —As a matter of economy it is always best to dip shingles in bulk be¬ fore laying them. Do not soak in the stain, but dip in and out as quickly as possible, thus saving the stain and hastening the drying. Dip only about two-thirds of the length of the shingle. It is best to fasten a brush at side of dipping tub, on which to wipe shingles as they are taken out of the stain. Place shingles in loose piles after dip¬ ping so that the air can circulate freely and aid in drying. Two and one-half gallons of Acme Quality Shingle Stain is sufficient to dip 1000 shingles. When shingles are finished, after being placed in position on roof, the stain must be brushed on in the same manner as paint. Keep the stain thoroughly stirred and be careful to cover edges and ends of shingles. A gallon of Acme Quality Shingle Stain brushed on will cover 150 square feet for the first coat. Second Coat of Acme Quality Shingle Stain —Two coats of Acme Quality Shingle Stain are recommended for new Painting Porch To Use Acme Quality Veranda Floor Paints These goods are made especially for such surfaces, being tough, elastic and reasonably quick drying. They are best adapted to withstand the hard usage to which outside floors and steps must be subjected. For A r ew Work —Two coats should be applied. To the first coat add one- half pint of pure raw linseed oil to each gallon. After 48 hours apply a second coat just as the paint comes in the can. The first coat will cover about 400 to 500 square feet to the gallon and the work. The second coat requires only one-half as much as the first and in¬ sures a much handsomer finish, beside making a more durable finish. Old W ork We do not recommend Shingle Stain for old weather-beaten shingles, black¬ ened by age and exposure. Paint is best for such a surface. Nor can Shingle Stain be applied over paint and give satisfactory results. To appear and wear right the stains must be absorbed by the wood. Paint would prevent such absorption. A single coat of Acme Quality Shingle Stain applied over a surface previously stained is sufficient, however it must remembered in staining previously stained surfaces that color of the undercoat of stain will affect the final appearance of the roof. For first coat, one gallon will cover about 200 square feet. The second coat will cover about 300 square feet. Caution —Where water from roof is to be used for drinking or washing pur¬ poses we do not recommend the use of these stains. Floors and Steps second about 000 to 700 square feet. For Old 11 'ork —Unless the surface is in very bad condition, one coat is suffi¬ cient. Apply as received in the can. A gallon will cover from 000 to 700 square feet. If worn in places it is best to give the worn spots a coat of paint and then go over the entire sufrace with finishing coat. If in very bad condi¬ tion, apply two coats, reducing first coat with one-half pint of pure raw linseed oil for each gallon of paint. To Use Acme Quality House Paint Follow directions for applying upon wooden structures (pages 14. 15 and 17). 20 To l so Acme Quality Strictly Pure White Lead Follow directions for applying upon wooden structures (pages 13 and 15). To I se Michigan Seal White Acme Quality) Follow directions for applying upon wooden structures (pages 14 and 15). Painting Blinds or Shutters Acme Quality Strictly Pure White Lead, Michigan Seal W'hite , or Acme Quality House Paint may be used, and directions followed as recommended for applying upon wooden buildings (pages 13-17). Green is by far the most popular color for blinds, though in many instances they are painted to cor¬ respond to the body or trimming of the house. In Acme Quality House Paint we offer a “Window Blind Green” to meet the demand for this popular color. To Use Acme Quality Bull h rog Green This color is ground in oil (in paste form), is very popular among practical painters for work of this description and especially recommended for opacity and beautv of color. Wi ndow Sash To Use Acme Quality House Paint Window sashes are usually painted black, white, Ivy Green, or deep rich colors such as copper Browns. These colors of Acme Quality House Paint may be secured in small pack¬ ages, very little being required for this class of work. Apply just as received in the can. If desired, one of the same shades may be used that is employed for the body or trimming of the house. To Use Acme Quality Colors in Oil (Master Painters’) Many practical painters prefer to use color in oil for this work, reducing in the usual manner by the addition of linseed oil, turpentine and drver Kxteriors of Doors To Use Acme Quality House Paint The rule is to paint the exteriors of doors in the same shade as the exterior of the house and the same methods of applying should be followed. To Use Acme Quality Varnish The exteriors of doors are often given a varnish finish. This is particularly true when doors are of hard wood, such as oak or ash, and the natural beauty of the grain is to be preserved For open-grained woods (such as oaks or ash), first fill with Acme Quality Paste Wood Filler, using natural, light or dark antique, light or dark golden oak or mahogany shade, according to taste. The Paste Wood Filler insures a level surface for the varnish. After 48 hours, use Exterolite, one of the Acme Quality Varnishes especially made to withstand outside exposure. For first coat, re¬ duce varnish with turpentine in the proportion of one quart to a gallon 21 1 After 48 hours apply another coat of Exterolite just as it comes from the original can without the addition of any thinner. Let this stand 48 to 60 hours and then apply a third coat of Extero¬ lite, which will produce a beautiful and lasting finish. Close-grained woods such as pine, cherrv, maple, etc., do not need to be filled with the Paste Wood Filler. See that the surface is clean, dry and smooth (sandpapering if necessary). Simply apply Acme Quality Exterolite as instructed in preceding paragraph. Graining —This plan is frequently followed where it is desired to imitate the appearance of expensive woods upon less expensive material. It al¬ ways requires the skill of a practical decorator. The surface is prepared with a suitable Acme Quality Ground Color, over which Acme Quality Grain¬ ing Color is used and combed out with special tools to imitate the wood de¬ sired. When dry apply Acme Quality Exterolite as previously described. Where the surface to be varnished is ex¬ posed to the weather while being finished use Acme Quality Sparkote instead of Acme Quality Exterolite. Sparkote dries much quicker and is not so apt to be injured before it hardens as is the slower drying varnish. If it’s a surface to be painted, enameled, stained, varnished or finished in any way, there’s an Acme Quality Kind to fit the purpose. 22 Painting Barns, Fences and Outbuildings Such structures should be painted with the same class of material as residences or other buildings in order to secure the greatest durability and best appearance. Owners, however, sometimes prefer to use paint costing Painting To Use Acme Quality Barn and Roof Paints Priming —Shellac all knots and sappy places, and apply as a priming coat Acme Quality Barn and Roof Paint reduced by the addition of one-half gallon of pure raw linseed oil, and from one-half to three-quarters of a gallon of pure turpen¬ tine or benzine to each gallon of paint. One gallon reduced as above will cover about 900 square feet of surface. Second Coat —Putty nail holes and cracks after priming coat is dry. For second and finishing coat reduce Acme Quality Barn and Roof Paint by the addition of one gallon of pure raw linseed oil to each gallon of paint. One gallon less per gallon for barns, fences and outbuildings, and for those we offer the brands named below, with the assurance that they are good paints, properly made, but not equal to those already named. New Barns of paint reduced in this manner will cover about 1200 square feet of surface. To Use Keystone Metallic Paint For Priming Coat —Shellac all knots and sappy places and apply a priming coat of Keystone Metallic Paint reduced with one quart of pure raw linseed oil and one pint of turpentine to each gallon of paint. One gallon reduced as above will cover about 500 square feet of sur¬ face on new work. Second Coat —Putty nail holes and cracks after priming coat is dry. For second and finishing coat apply the goods just as received from the can. One gallon will cover about 500 square feet of surface on new work. Painting If the surface is in good condition, one coat of either Acme Quality Barn and Roof Paint, or Keystone Metallic Paint, will be sufficient. This should be applied in the manner as specified above for second coat work. If the surface is in bad condition, it Old Barns is better to use two coats. In this case the first coat should be further reduced by the addition of one-half pint of tur¬ pentine, and from one quart to one-half gallon of raw linseed oil to each gallon of paint as prepared for second coat work. 23 ! Interior Woodwork Varnishing Interior Woodwork Acme Quality Varnishes are made in a variety of brands. Each brand is made to fit some certain need or con¬ dition. The best grades of rubbing and polishing varnishes, as well as the less expensive flowing and gloss finish varnishes, are included in the Acme Qualitv line, and each is perfect for the purposes for which it is recommended. To obtain the best results, an experi¬ enced decorator should be employed. All of the woodwork which is to be finished should be given a coat of good paint (Acme Quality House Paint preferred) on the sides and edges that are to go next to the plaster. This paint and the filler and first coat of varnish should all be put on before the woodwork is placed in position. This prevents the wood from warping caused by absorbing moisture from the new plaster. Varnishing New Woodwork The Finest Finish for 0pen-Grained Woods such as oaks and ash. First sandpaper the wood thoroughly and dust off clean, then fill with Acme Quality Paste Wood Filler to secure a level surface. The Filler is offered in natural, light and dark antique, extra dark antique, extra dark golden oak, light and dark golden oak and mahogany shades. Enough of the Filler for immediate use should be reduced with turpentine to the consistency of a heavy varnish. Apply with a stiff brush. If it sets too quickly, add a few drops of linseed oil. Do not cover more surface at a time than can be cleaned off before Filler hardens. After it has flattened (lost its gloss) rub off with burlap, rubbing across the grain when¬ ever possible. Clean out crevices about mouldings, etc., with a stick and cloth or stiff brush. One pound will fill about 150 square feet. Allow 24 hours for Filler to harden. Apply a coat of Acme Quality Interolite reduced in the propor¬ tion of one quart of pure turpentine to one gallon of Interolite. Allow 48 hours to harden, sand lightly with "00” sand¬ paper, dust off clean and then apply another coat as it comes in the can, which after 48 hours should be sanded the same as first coat. A third and fin¬ ishing coat of Interolite should then be applied. This is all that is necessary, providing a “gloss” finish is desired. However, a “rubbed” (without gloss) or “polished” surface is usually demanded for the finest finish. A gallon of Inter¬ olite will cover about 450 square feet. 24 > For a Rubbed Finish the second coat of Interolite should stand front three to four days and then be sanded lightly with "00” sandpaper and dusted off clean. The third coat of Interolite should stand front four to five days before rubbing. It should then be rubbed level with fine powdered puntice stone and water, or rubbing oil. Rub¬ bing felt is used for rubbing. The felt is saturated with the rubbing oil and then dipped in the pumice stone and the varnish rubbed until brush marks are removed and surface is of a uniform dull finish. To Obtain a Rubbed Finish Effect by a I 'cry Economical Method use Acme Quality Xo-Rub Flat Finish. This var¬ nish produces a flat or rubbed finish effect and saves the labor and time of rubbing varnish in the usual manner. It is recommended when economy and dispatch are important factors and not as superior a finish in appearance as the rubbed effect produced in the regular manner. One coat over varnish of any kind that has been sandpapered smooth is sufficient. Acme Quality Xo-Rub Flat Finish should not be thinned—use it just as received in the can. A gallon will cover about 450 square feet. This finish can not be polished. For a Polished Finish the varnish after being rubbed should be polished by rubbing with polishing oil and rotten stone, which will give a brilliant lustre. When polishing, the waste or cloth should be saturated with water and then dipped into rubbing oil and rotten stone. A rubbed finish should stand at least one day before polishing. The Finest Finish for Close-Grained Hoods such as pine, birch, sycamore, maple, cherry, cypress and cedar is obtained by applying three coats of Acme Quality Interolite. Reduce for first coat by adding one quart of pure turpentine per gallon. Apply second and third coats in the same way as for open-grained woods. Interolite will cover about 450 square feet to the gallon. Acme Quality Vul-K-Lac may also be used for a fine finish. It has a good lustre and may be rubbed and polished perfectly. Allow twenty-four hours be¬ tween coats. The last coat may be rubbed after standing 48 hours. For very light colored wood use Acme Quality Extra Pale Finishing Varnish. Vul-K-Lac or Extra Pale Finishing Varnish will cover as much surface to the gallon as Interolite. An Average Finish for Open-Grained Woods, such as oaks, ash, walnut, or mahogany. First fill the wood with Acme Quality Paste Wood Filler as de¬ scribed on page 24. Follow this with two coats of Acme Quality Light Hard Oil Finish, The undercoat should be sandpapered lightly and from 24 to 36 hours allowed between coats. This varnish is intended to be left in the “gloss” and impart a full level surface with a brilliant lustre. It may also be rubbed to a dull finish, or polished if desired. Light Hard Oil Finish will cover about 450 square feet to the gallon. ,4n Average Finish for Close-Grained Woods, such as maple, birch, syca¬ more, pine, spruce, cedar, cypress or redwood, is obtained by applying three coats of Acme Quality Light Hard Oil Finish. Reduce for first coat with one quart of pure turpentine per gallon. Apply second and third coats just as received in the can, in the same manner as for open-grained woods. Light Liard Oil Finish will cover about 450 square feet to the gallon. An Inexpensive Finish for Open- Grained Woods such as oaks or ash. The wood should be filled with Acme Quality Paste Wood Filler, as described on page 24 and followed with two coats of 25 ( Acme Quality Xo. 1 Coach Varnish. Reduce for first coat with one quart of turpentine for each gallon of varnish. Sandpaper lightly with “00” sandpaper after 24 to 36 hours. Apply a second coat without reducing. This varnish may be rubbed. One gallon will cover about 450 square feet. An Inexpensive Finish for Close- Grained, Woods such as white pine, southern pine, maple, poplar, elm or spruce, may be obtained by first apply¬ ing a coat of Acme Quality Liquid Wood Filler. Allow 16 to 24 hours to dry and then sandpaper lightly with “00" sandpaper, after which apply a finishing coat of Acme Quality No. 1 Coach Varnish. One gallon of Acme Quality Liquid Wood Filler will cover about 3.50 square feet on bare wood. Acme Quality Xo. 1 Coach Varnish will cover about 450 square feet to the gallon. Re-Varnishing Removing an old Finish —If the sur¬ face is in bad condition, with varnish cracked and marred, the old finish should be removed with Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Remover, which will leave the surface in perfect condition for re-finishing. Apply a liberal coat of the Remover with an ordinary paint brush. When the varnish becomes thoroughly soft remove it (if on a plain surface) with a putty knife, scraper or other blunt instrument. Wash the sur¬ face clean with cotton waste or cloth soaked in benzine. Should the surface not be perfectly clean, apply a second coat, or rub with cotton waste or cloth dipped in the Remover, then again wash thoroughly with benzine. For mould¬ ings, headings and ornamental work apply in the same manner, but in order to clean all crevices, remove with a stiff brush dipped in benzine. Should the finish be old and very thick or hard apply a coat of the Remover and after the paint or varnish has been softened scrape all of the loose material off, then Old Woodwork apply a second coat of Remover and let it remain until the under coats of old paint or varnish are softened, and you will be able to remove the old material. The Finest Finish —After the old finish is removed, use three coats of Acme Quality Interolite in the same manner as for the finest finish for open¬ grained woods (page 24), omitting the Paste Wood Filler. If the surface to be refinished is in good condition, sandpaper down to a level surface, dust off clean and apply two coats of Interolite, as above. An Average Finish —Sandpaper sur¬ face smooth, dust off clean. Apply two coats of Acme Quality Light Hard Oil Finish in the same manner as desciibed in connection with an average finish for open-grained woods (page 25), omitting the Paste Wood Filler. Inexpensive Finish — Sandpaper old finish smooth and apply one or two coats of Acme Quality Xo. 1 Coach Varnish. It will cover about 450 square feet to the gallon. Staining Interior Woodwork Beautiful and artistic effects are ob¬ tained by staining nearly all kinds of woods. The handsomer the wood the handsomer the finish. Either open¬ grained or close-grained woods may be stained with most economical and beau¬ tiful results. A properly made stain brings out the flakes and furrows of handsomely grained woods. Surprising¬ ly handsome results are obtained from inexpensive woods such as Southern pine, cypress and chestnut. 26 Staining New Woodwork Acme Quality Art Wood Finishes arc offered in a variety of artistic stain- effects such as weathered, flemishes, antwerp, mission and golden oaks, greens, cherry, walnut and mahogany. . 1 Single-Coat Finish is usually all that is necessary on any kind of wood. Apply Acme Quality Art Wood Finish as it comes in the package. First see that the surface of the wood is perfectly smooth and free from dust or dirt. Use a bear-hair or camel-hair brush. After standing from live to ten minutes, de¬ pending upon the absorbent properties of the wood, wipe off with a soft cloth. If a dull finish is desired, rub thoroughly with a clean cloth until all surplus stain is removed. Shellac, wax or var¬ nish applied over these stains will en¬ hance their beauty and lend life to the finish. This applies to all stain effects except Mahogany, which requires an undercoating of Mahogany Ground Color. Varnish should always be used over the Mahogany shade as it brings out the full rich Mahogany color of the stain. For this purpose we recommend Acme Quality Yul K-Lac. Thestainshould standfrom 12 to 16 hours before shellac, wax or var¬ nish is applied. A gallon will stain 500 to 700 square feet, depending on the absorbent qualities of the wood. ToShellac Over Stain use a single coat of Acme Quality Shellac cut one-third with alcohol. One gallon will cover from 400 to 600 square feet. To 1 'arnish Over Stain use Acme Oual- ity varnish as described on pages (24-26.) One or two coats of Acme Quality Xo- Rub Flat Finish are frequently used. This varnish imparts a lustreless rubbed effect, without the labor and expense of rubbing the vanish. To 1! ax Over Stain use Acme Qualitv Floor Wax (called floor wax, but equally good for woodwork or furniture). Tt is prepared in thick paste form and is applied with a soft cloth or cotton waste just as it comes in the can. After a few minutes, it should be rubbed briskly with a clean soft cloth to secure the proper polished effect. Open¬ grained woods should be filled with Acme Quality Paste Wood Filler, tinted to match the stain, before a wax finish is applied. Otherwise the wax is forced into the pores of the wood, resulting in a lack of uniformity in the lustre of the surface. The wax is very light in color and will not affect the most delicate shades of stain or the lightest colored woods. One pound will cover about 400 square feet. Filling Open-Grained Woods such as oaks or ash is necessary when finishing coats of varnish or wax are to be applied over stain. The pores or depressions of open-grained woods must be filled in order to obtain a hard, level surface. Over the stain use Acme Quality Paste Wood Filler as described on page 24, provided varnish or wax is to be applied over the stain and a level finish is de¬ sired. Tint the filler to match the stain before applying. After filling allow work to stand 8 to 12 hours before pro¬ ceeding with the finishing. Staining and Varnishing with One Application —Acme Quality Varno-Lac accomplishes this result. In making these goods, stains are combined with good quality varnish so that the colors of expensive woods such as oaks, mahogany, cherry, deep mahogany, wal¬ nut, as well as fancy stain-effects such as Mecca Green and Turkish Red, may be produced upon such ordinary woods as pine or whitewood. Apply as follows: Have surface dry and perfectly clean. Apply with chiseled varnish brush. Allow 66 to 48 hours for first coat to dry and then sandpaper lightly with “00” sand- paper and dust off clean. Apply second coat in the same manner. The second coat can be left in the gloss, or rubbed to a dull finish with powdered pumice stone and rubbing oil after standing from 3 to 4 days. If desired, twenty- four hours after rubbing it may be polished to a high lustre with rotten stone and polishing oil. One gallon of Yarno-Lac will cover about 450 to 500 square feet. See directions for rubbing and polishing on pages 24-25 under heading “Varnishing New Wood¬ work.” Acme Quality Oil Wood Stains —Oil stains are preferred by some decora¬ tors for producing imitations of expensive woods upon less expen- Staining Old 1 o Use Acme Quality Art Wood Finish The old finish must first be completely removed with Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Remover, as explained on page 26. This rule applies to painted, enameled, varnished or grained finishes, which would be completely taken off by the Remover, but would not apply to a stained surface where the stain had penetrated into the wood. The Remover will take off everything on the surface, but will not remove stain that has penetrated beneath the surface. When surface is perfectly clean, apply Acme Quality Art Wood Finish, as instructed for “A Single-Coat Finish” (page 27). Acme Quality Art Wood Finish should be applied upon a clean, absorbent surface to secure the true color of the Finish. If applied on wood discolored by previous staining, sive kinds. Acme Quality Oil Wood Stains are furnished in oaks, walnut and mahogany, also deep mahogany. They are applied as follows: Have surface dry and clean. Apply stain with an ordinary paint brush, allowing it to stand for a few minutes and then wipe off with soft cloth. This will give a uniform appearance to the entire sur¬ face. The longer the stain stands on the surface the darker the finish will be. One gallon of the stain will cover about 700 square feet. After 24 hours the coat of stain should be sanded lightly with “00" sandpaper. Acme Quality Varnish may then be applied. See directions for “Varnishing New Woodwork,” (pages 24-26). Woodwork pleasing results cannot be promised, al¬ though pretty effects frequently result from using darker stains over lighter ones. A gallon will stain from 500 to 700 square feet. To Use Acme Quality Yarno-Lac It is not necessary to remove the old finish unless it is in bad condition. If in bad condition it should always be removed with Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Remover as explained on page 26. Apply Acme Quality Varno-Lac as described under “Staining and Varnish¬ ing with One Application” on page 27. If the old finish is of a darker color than shade of Yarno-Lac to be used, first apply a coat of Varno-Lac Ground Color. This will give a surface over which the true color of the finish will be developed. Allow Ground Color to stand 24 hours before applying following coat. Enameling Interior Woodwork Enameled woodwork (in delicate tints or rich colors) harmonizes perfectly with draperies and furnishings and pre¬ sents a hard, durable, non-absorbent surface. Dust and dirt do not easily cling to an enamel finish and it is easily 28 ( kept bright and clean. For both sani¬ tary and artistic reasons it is one of the most desirable of finishes. It is largely used for pink, blue or pure white bed¬ rooms as well as for ivory and white and gold reception rooms. Enameling New Woodwork To Use Acme Quality Enamel (Neal’s) The Finest Finish is obtained as follows: The surface must be smooth, dry and perfectly clean. Apply two coats of Acme Quality Enamel Primer (made especially as a foundation for Enamel—covers solidly, brushes out easily and fills the wood properly). If the finished work is not to be white, tint the Primer with a little of the Enamel which is to be used for the fin¬ ishing coat. Allow 24 hours for first coat of Primer to dry hard. Then sand¬ paper lightly with “00” sandpaper and dust off clean Apply a second coat of Primer, brushing out well. A gallon of Primer will cover about 450 square feet on bare wood and about 600 over first coat of Primer. Allow 24 hours to harden, sand lightly with “00'' sandpaper and dust off clean. Next apply a coat of Acme Quality Enamel (Xeal’s) of whatever color is desired for the finished work, flowing on a thin coat in long, even strokes with a chiseled varnish brush. Avoid “lap¬ ping” by being careful not to go over the Enamel a second time after it has begun to “set.” Should Enamel not work freely, add a very little turpentine. Allow 36 to 48 hours for Enamel to harden and then rub with curled hair or sandpaper very lightly with “00” paper, after which apply another coat of En¬ amel. If a regular enamel-gloss finish is desired this is all that is necessary. The finishing color of Enamel will cover about 450 square feet to the gallon. A Rubbed Finish maybe imparted by rubbing smooth with fine powdered pumice stone and water. Allow three to four days before rubbing. See direc¬ tions for rubbing on page 25. A Polished Finish may be obtained by polishing with rotten stone and water to a high lustre. Permit the rubbed finish to stand at least 24 hours before polishing. Directions for rubbing and polishing appear on page 25. An Average Finish may be ob¬ tained by applying two coats of Primer and one coat of Enamel, as described for “The Finest Finish,” the last coat being left in the enamel-gloss. An Inexpensive Finish may be had by applying one coat of Primer and one of Enamel, the latter to be left in the enamel-gloss. To Use Acme Quality Cabinet Enamel Acme Quality Cabinet Enamel is intended for use where a particularly fine finish must be obtained. The practical decorator's experience and knowledge of the conditions must necessarily guide him in the use of the goods. The Enamel may be rubbed or polished to a very high lustre. To Use Acme Quality Duronamel This is a pure white finishing Enamel, but is adapted for outside as well as inside exposure. It must be applied over a suitable primer and is intended only for the very highest grade work. It mav be left in the gloss or rubbed to a dull finish. 30 Enameling Old Woodwork I lo Use Acme Quality Enamel (Neal's) An enamel finish may be obtained upon any old surface, whether varnished painted, stained or enameled. First see that the old surface is in proper condi¬ tion. A surface in good condition re¬ quires only to be sanded smooth, but if in very bad condition remove the finish with Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Remover, as explained on page 26. The Finest Finish may be ob¬ tained by the use of two coats of Acme Quality Enamel Primer and two coats of Acme Quality Enamel (Xeal’s) ap¬ plied according to directions for securing "The Finest Finish on New Wood¬ work” (page 30') Ait Average Finish will result from two coats of Acme Quality Enamel Primer and one coat of Enamel, applied according to directions for securing ‘‘An Average Finish on New Woodwork” (page 30). Ah Inexpensive Finish may be had by applying a ■ single coat of Acme Quality Enamel (Neal’s). Flow on an even coat with a chiseled varnish brush, avoiding “lapping” by not brushing over the Enamel after it has begun to “set.” A gallon will cover about 450 square feet. Should Enamel not work freely, add a very little turpentine—not enough to dim the lustre. This method of finishing will not do if the Enamel is lighter in color than the old finish. In that event follow directions for “An Average Finish,” as explained in pre¬ ceding paragraph. If it’s a surface to be painted, enameled, stained, varnished or finished in any way, there’s an Acme Quality Kind to lit the purpose. 31 Floors A handsome floor goes far towards shabby, detracts as much from the making a handsome room. No interior surface does as much when properly finished to emphasize the beauty of furnishings, draperies and rugs. On the other hand, there is no surface in the home, which, when marred and Varnishing The Finest Finish for Open-grained Woods such as oaks or ash. First sand¬ paper the wood thoroughly and dust off clean, then fill with Acme Quality Paste Wood Filler to obtain a level sur¬ face. The Filler is offered in natural, light and dark antique, extra dark an¬ tique, extra dark golden oak, light and dark golden oak and mahogany shades. Enough of the Filler for immediate use should be reduced with turpentine to the consistency of a heavy liquid. Ap¬ ply with a stiff brush. If it sets too quickly, add a few drops of linseed oil. Do not cover more surface at a time than can be cleaned off before the Filler hardens. After it has flattened (lost its gloss) rub off with burlap or cloth, rubbing across the grain whenever pos¬ sible. Clean out crevices about mould¬ ings, etc., with a stick and cloth, or stiff brush. One pound will fill about 150 square feet. Allow 24 hours for Filler to harden. Apply a coat of Acme Quality Varnotile (the Acme pleasing effect of the furnishings. All floors require attention to keep them in good condition, for no surface in the home receives such hard usage as that which is constantly walked upon and upon which furniture rests. New Floors Quality floor varnish) thinned with one quart of pure turpentine to one gallon of Varnotile, brushing out well to form a thin coating, which is much less apt to crack and mar than a heavy coat. Allow 48 hours to dry. Sand well with "00” sandpaper and dust off clean. Apply a second coat of Varnotile with¬ out thinning. Brush out even and well. Allow 48 hours to harden, then sand lightly with "00” sandpaper and dust off clean. Apply a third coat of Acme Quality Varnotile as it comes in the can. This is the finishing coat and may be left in the gloss, rubbed to a dull finish or polished to a high lustre. One gallon of Varnot ile will cover 4.50 to 500 square feet. For a Rubbed Finish the last coat of Varnotile should be allowed to stand for three or four days and then rubbed with fine powdered pumice stone and water or rubbing oil. Rubbing felt is used for rub¬ bing. The felt is dipped in oil and then in pumice stone and the varnish rubbed until surface is perfectly level. 32 > For a Polished Finish, the rubbed finish should stand at least 24 hours, after which it may be polished with rubbing oil and rotten stone. A cloth or cotton waste should first be saturated in water, then dipped in the oil and then in rotten stone, the varnish being rubbed until a high lustre appears. For an . 1 verage Finish for Open-grained Woods first fill the wood with Acme Quality Paste Wood Filler and then apply two coats of Acme Quality Varnotile. Thin first coat with one quart of pure turpentine to one gallon of varnish. Apply last coat just as it comes in can. Leave last coat in the gloss as described on preceding page. The Finest Finish for Close-grained II oods such as maple and pine, is ob¬ tained in the same way as for open¬ grained woods, except that no Paste Wood Filler is required. The first coat of Acme Quality Varnotile is applied upon the bare wood. .4 n Average Finish for Close-grained 11 oods— Apply two coats of Acme Quality Varnotile, reducing first coat with one quart of turpentine for each gallon of varnish. Allow 48 hours to dry. Sand well with “00” sandpaper and dust off clean. Apply a thin coat of Acme Quality Varnotile, which should be left in the gloss. A gallon of Varnotile will cover from 4.50 to 500 square feet. Where the effect of a rub finish is de¬ sired without incurring the expense and labor of hand rubbing, use Acme Quality Dull Floor Finish, applying in the same manner as Varnotile with the exception that the Dull Floor Finish must not be thinned or reduced. Re-Varnishing Floors To Use Acme Quality Varnotile First, thoroughly clean the old surface with soap and warm water to remove all grease, dirt or foreign substance. Then rinse well with clear water to remove traces of soap. Sand surface smooth with ”00" sandpaper and dust off clean. If cracks appear in the floor due to shrinkage of the wood, fill them with Acme Quality Crack and Crevice Filler as explained on page 35. Then apply a coat of Acme Quality Varnotile. This should be sufficient, unless surface is in very bad condition, when two coats will be necessary'. Allow first coat 48 hours to harden. The finishing coat may be left in the gloss, rubbed, or polished if desired, as described under “The Finest Finish for Open-grained Woods” (page 32). Waxing New Floors Acme Quality Floor l\'ax should be used for this purpose. Open grained woods such as oak or ash should first be filled with Acme Quality Paste Wood Filler. Close-grain woods, such a pine or maple, do not require filling. Both open and close-grain woods should have a coat of equal parts of Acme Quality Varnotile Varnish and turpentine. If the surface is rough, it should be sanded lightly- before applying the wax. The varnish must stand two days before wax can be applied. Apply Floor Wax in a thin coat with soft cloth or cotton waste. Allow it to dry y five or ten minutes. Polish with clean cloth or waste, or weighted brush, rubbing first across and then with the grain of the wood. Apply' a second coat in same manner. Three coats are used for the finest finish, giving the last coat an extra good polish. Never use soap and water to clean a waxed floor. A little turpentine applied with soft cloth will remove dirt, and wax may- then be applied. Acme Quality Floor wax is very light in color and will not discolor the lightest woods. One pound will cover about 400 square feet. 33 Re-Waxing Floors With Acute Quality Floor Wax —'This is a very simple process. It is not neces¬ sary to wait until the entire surface is worn and ready to be refinished but as worn places appear, they may be re¬ finished by applying wax and polishing. It is best to go over floors occasionally with a ligh coat of wax and polish with soft cloth or use a weighted polishing brush. If cracks appear in the floor due to a shrinkage of the wood, they should be filled with Acme Quality Crack and Crevice Filler as explained on page 3d, except that Filler should be tinted to match the bare wood and applied before any wax is used. Staining and Varnishing New Floors New Floors, both open-grained and close-grained woods may be treated with either oil or spirit stains. The stains should alway be covered with two or more coats of good varnish to protect them from the wear which they would receive if walked upon without such protective coating. To Use Acme Quality Art Wood Finish This is a spirit stain that penetrates the wood deeply, producing handsome effects in Weathered, Flemishes, Ant¬ werp, Mission and Golden Oaks, as well as Greens, Walnut and Mahogany. The method of applying is fully described on page 28. Open-grained woods, such as oaks or ash should be stained before filling with Acme Quality Paste Wood Filler, as described on page 32. Close- grained woods do not require filling. Several coats of Acme Quality Varnotile should be applied over stain, according to the character of finish desired. See “Varnishing New Floors” (pages 32-33.) To Use Acme Quality Oil Wood Stains These Stains also penetrate the wood. They are offered in Mahogany, Cherry, Deep Mahogany, Walnut and Oaks. For method of application see Acme Quality Oil Wood Stains (page 28). These Stains produce imitations of expen¬ sive woods upon less expensive kinds such as pine or white wood. Acme Quality Varnotile should be applied over the Stain, the number of coats depend¬ ing upon the character of finish desired. See page 32. Fo Use Acme Quality Varno-Lac This finish stains and varnishes at a single application. It does not penetrate the wood, but covers the sur¬ face with a tough, durable varnish- gloss coating, showing the color and effect of such expensive woods as ma¬ hogany, cherry, walnut, light and dark oaks, deep mahogany and fancy stain- effects such as mecca green and turkish red. Open-grained woods such as oaks and ash should always be filled with Acme Quality Paste Wood Filler before Varno-Lac is applied. For directions for filling see page 32. Close-grained woods do not require filling. For method of applying Acme Quality Varno-Lac see page 27. Old Floors that have never been fin¬ ished can not be stained to advantage with stains that penetrate the wood for the reason that the wood is usually soiled or worn. The soiled places can not be entirely obliterated by even a dark stain and the worn places, being more absorbent, would take up more 34 Stain and thus cause a contrast in the appearance of the finish that would be unsatisfactory. An old floor may, however, be re-finished satisfactorily with a stain and varnish combined, which does not penetrate the wood but covers the surface and obliterates all defects. Staining and Varnishing Old Floors Acme Quality Art Wood Finish may be used to stain old floors that have previously been finished, provided the wood beneath the old finish is in good condition. If the finish is worn off and the wood in places has become defaced, a stain that penetrates the wood like Acme Quality Art Wood Finish should not be used. If the wood is in good condition, the old finish should be completely removed by the use of Acme Quality Paint and Varnish . S Remover, as described on page 26. Filling Cracks —If cracks appear in the floor due to shrinkage of the wood, they should be filled with Acme Quality Crack and Crevice Filler after the first coat of paint, varnish or stain has been applied. The Filler is in paste form and before using should be removed from can and well mixed by working in the hands like putty and tinted to match the wood with stain or Acme Quality Colors in Oil (Master Painters’). Tint¬ ing the Filler will prevent the cracks from appearing like white lines after the wax or varnish has been applied, as in its natural state it dries to an ivory tint Remove all of the dirt from craclcs in the floor. Apply first coat of varnish, stain or finish, being careful to work the finish to the bottom of the era.ks. Allow this to become dry, then force Filler to the bottom of cracks with fingers or putty knife. Rub crosswise of cracks to smooth the Filler per¬ fectly. Should Filler become too dry, add a very little raw linseed oil. Remove all loose particles and wipe off floor carefully with burlap or coarse ^’oth and see that the surface is perfectly free from unused Filler. Allow Filler to stand from 24 to 36 hours, after which Acme Quality Varno- tile (our floor varnish) should be used, the number of coats depending upon the character of the finish desired. See directions (pages 32-33) for “Varnish¬ ing New Floors.” To Use Acme Quality Varno-Lac Over an old surface in fairly good condition, sandpaper down to a smooth surface. Fill cracks (if any) with Acme Quality Crack and Crevice Filler as instructed in the preceding para¬ graph. If the old finish is of a darker color than the shade of Varno- Lac to be used, a coat of Varno-Lac Ground Color should next be applied. This will give a surface over which the true color will be developed and a much handsomer effect secured. Allow Ground Color to stand 48 hours before applying the next coat. Apply Acme Quality Varno-Lac with a chiseled varnish brush. Allow from 36 to 48 hours to harden. Apply a second coat in the same manner. The second coat may remain in the gloss, or may be rubbed to a dull finish with powdered pumice stone and rubbing oil after standing from three to four days. Twenty-four hours after being rubbed, it may be polished to a high lustre if desired, with rotten stone and polishing oil. One gallon of Acme Quality Varno-Lac will cover from 450 to 500 square feet on an ordinary surface. Directions for rubbing and polishing will be found on pages 32 and 33. 35 To Use Acme Quality Varno-Lac Over an old surface in bad condi¬ tion, the finish should first bo removed by the use of Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Remover, as described on page 26. If it is too much trouble to remove the old finish, cover it with a coat of Varno-Lac Ground Color, but the result will not be as good as if finish had been removed. When surface is in proper condition, pro¬ ceed with Acme Quality Varno-Lac, according to directions given in pre¬ ceding paragraph. Painting To Use Acme Quality Floor Paint (Granite) Floors of kitchens, pantries, laundries, steps and other surfaces to be walked upon are quite generally painted. Have the surface to be painted perfectly clean and dry. Apply the paint in a thin coat, brushing out well. If wood Painting Old Floors To Use Acme Quality Floor Paint (Granite) The same method will apply here as explained in preceding paragraph for Re- Painting To F sc Acme Quality Floor Paint (Granite) The surface should be thoroughly clean and dry. Apply the paint in a To Use Acme Quality Varno-Lac Upon an old floor that has never been finished, fill, cracks and blemishes in wood with Acme Quality Crack and Crevice Filler (see directions on page 35). As such surfaces are usually soiled and worn, a coat of Varno-Lac Ground Color should be applied, to cover de¬ fects and secure a surface uniform in color upon which to apply finishing coats of Varno-Lac. Allow 48 hours for Ground Color to dry and then sand¬ paper smooth. After this apply Varno- Lac. The number of coats depends upon the character of the finish desired, as explained in preceding paragraphs. Jew Floors is very soft and absorbent, reduce first coat by adding one quart of raw linseed oil for each gallon. Allow 36 to 48 hours for paint to become perfectly dry. Apply a second and third coat just as it comes in the can. One gallon on first coat will cover about 400 square feet and on the following coats about 600 square feet. Never Painted Before painting new floors. If there are cracks in the floor due to shrinkage of the wood, they should be filled with Acme Quality Crack and Crevice Filler as explained on page 35. Old Floors thin, even coat, just as it comes in the can, brushing out well. Allow from 24 to 36 hours to harden and then apply a second coat in the same manner as the first. Painting Cement Floors Cement and concrete floors have a tendency to "powder up" and “wear away." The fine sand or powder which is almost always present on a cement floor is very annoying, to say the least. Acme Quality Cement Coater will pre- 37 vent this wearing away and gives a hard, smooth, durable, sanitary surface very easy to keep clean. It is recom¬ mended for floors of kitchens, base¬ ments, garages, stables, factories, cold storage plants, office vaults, power houses, etc., also for use on all kinds of interior cement or concrete structures. To Use Acme Quality Cement Coater First wash or saturate the cement sur¬ face to be coated with a solution com¬ pounded of equal parts, by weight, sulphate of zinc and water. This will Varnishing To Use Acme Quality Linoleum Varnish Linoleum should always be protected with varnish. It protects the pattern of new linoleum and keeps it looking bright and new. Varnish will not restore the pattern of old linoleum after it has once been worn off, but it will brighten the surface and protect it from further neutralize the lime in the cement. Let the surface, after being so washed, become thoroughly dry. This is important. After this apply Acme Quality Cement Coater. If the Coater is too heavy re¬ duce with a very small percentage of turpentine or benzine. We recommend two coats of Cement Coater. In some cases however one coat will give satis¬ factory results. One gallon on first coat will cover about 300 square feet, and on second coat about 500 square feet. Apply with a four inch wall brush and allow from 36 to 48 hours between coats for drying. Linoleum wear. To apply, first have surface clean, dry and smooth. One coat applied just as it comes in the can will be sufficient unless the surface is in very bad con¬ dition, when two or three coats may be used to advantage. When more than one coat is used, allow 24 hours between coats for drying and sandpaper each coat lightly with “00” sandpaper and dust off clean before applying the next coat. If it’s a surface to be painted, enameled, stained, varnished or finished in any way, there’s an Acme Quality Kind to fit the purpose. 38 I Walls and Ceilings Enameling Walls and Ceilings that are New or Have Not Been Finished Before Acme Quality Interior Enamel is offered in pure white and a line of delicate tints and rich colors. The method of application is as follows: Have surface perfectly dry. A coat of size will first be necessary to form a proper foundation for Enamel. With¬ out size a plaster surface would absorb Enamel, giving a spotted effect. Use Acme Quality Extra Wall Size thinned one-third to one-half with pure turpentine, or Acme Quality No-Lustre Primer. Apply with paint brush, cover¬ ing surface thoroughly, being care¬ ful not to go over the same surface a second time after the size has set. Lay on smoothly and avoid brush marks. Next apply two coats of Acme Quality Enamel Primer the second coat tinted slightly with the finishing color, if the finishing coats are not white. Allow 24 hours for each coat of Primer to dry. Apply a coat of the Acme Quality In¬ terior Enamel, flowing on a thin coat in long even strokes with a chiseled varnish brush. Avoid “lapping” by being careful not to brush over the Enamel a second time after it has begun to “set.” Should Enamel not work freely, add a very little turpentine. This is all that is required for an average finish, but if an extra fine finish is desired allow this coat to dry for 36 to 48 hours and then sand lightly with “00” sandpaper and dust off clean. Apply final coat in same manner as previous coat. A gallon of Primer over sizing will cover about 600 square feet and a gallon of Enamel over Primer about 500 square feet. Enameling Walls and Ceilings that Have Been Finished Before To Use Acme Quality Interior Enamel If Wall Paper has been used re¬ move it by thoroughly soaking with water, when it can be scraped off with putty knife or similar tool. Sandpaper the surface perfectly smooth and see that no particles of paper adhere. Fill cracks, holes and imperfections in the surface with Plaster of Paris mixed with water. Size the surface and apply two coats of Acme Quality Enamel Primer and one or two coats of Enamel, de- 39 { pending upon finish desired, in same manner as for new walls or ceilings. If the Old Finish were Kalsomine it should be washed off with warm water and sponge and the wall or ceiling sandpapered perfectly smooth. Apply one or two coats of Enamel according to the finish desired. If Surface were Previously Painted or Enameled sandpaper smooth and apply one or two coats of the Enamel according to finish desired. Flat Oil Painted Finish for Walls and Ceiling: A cine Quality No-Lustre Finish is a hard, durable, fiat, lustreless finish, suit¬ able for decorating walls and ceilings, woodwork or any interior surfaces. It maybe used on . plaster, beaver-board, metal, or over canvas, burlap, or any wall covering. Acme Quality No-Lustre Finish is all ready for use, spreads easily, flows on smooth and even and does not show laps. It is furnished in white and a complete line of attractive colors suit¬ able for decorating walls, ceilings and woodwork, or any like interior surfaces. One coat is usually sufficient except where it is desired to apply a white or light tint over a very dark surface. In such cases two coats may be necessary. Very light tints can easily be made by combining any of the colors with white, or changes in shades can be made by combining two or more of the colors. It is a particularly desirable finish to be used about the home, both by reason of its sanitary value and from the fact that on account of its superior durability the expense in refinishing is not incurred at such frequent intervals. One gallon of Acme Quality Xo-Lustre Finish will cover from 400 to 500 square feet, one coat, depending upon the con¬ dition of the surface, For Absorbent Surfaces. Note care¬ fully. Good results cannot be expected from this or any other finish in the case of what is known as a hot wall, nor should any finish be applied on a green or damp surface. A newly plastered wall should be allowed to stand for at least thirty days. The surface must be perfectly dry. We recommend that a newly plastered wall be washed with a solution of equal parts by weight of Sulphate of Zinc and hot water, and this then allowed to become perfectly dry before applying any finish. Do not use a glue size or you wall be sure to have trouble, A Priming coat is absolutely necessary in order to stop suction and absorption and provide a firm foundation for suc¬ ceeding coats. All surfaces must be perfectly clean and dry, sanded if neces¬ sary,loose particles removed and defects filled with plaster. Apply Acme Quality Xo-Lustre Primer direct to the surface, adding no thinner whatever. The Primer may be slightly tinted with Xo- Lustre Finish of the color to be used for finishing coat. In this way it is very seldom necessary to use more than one coat over the Primer. This will thor¬ oughly seal the surface, stop all suction and provide a firm foundation for suc¬ ceeding coats. Successful results cannot be obtained unless all suction is stopped on every part of the surface. When dry the priming coat should be carefully in¬ spected and if any missed spots or flat spots appear as a result of not having been primed properly, or owing to some absorbent places in the plaster, or if flat streaks appear over a patch, all such places must be given an extra coat of Primer. Unless such places are thor¬ oughly sealed with the Primer it will be impossible to secure good results with 40 I succeeding coats of Xo-Lustre Finish. The Primer should be applied more freely upon rough sand plaster than upon smooth hard finished plaster, as the sand finish is more absorbent. In either case the entire surface must be thoroughly sealed and free from flat spots. Do not consider priming com¬ plete until the surface is uniform and of equal gloss all over. After the priming coat is thoroughly dry, which will re¬ quire about 24 hours, apply a coat of- Acme Quality No-Lustre Finish of the desired shade. A 'o-Lustrc should be spread freely, flowed on almost like kalsomine with a round swinging motion of the brush. Bo careful to avoid laps. We recom¬ mend an Acme Quality wall brush 4, 4^2 or 5 inches wide. One coat of Acme Quality No-Lustre is usually suf¬ ficient, but where a light tint is desired over a dark color two coats will some¬ times be required. Where two coats of No-Lustre Finish are to be used, the first coat should be reduced by the addition of one-half pint of Raw Linseed Oil to each gallon of No-Lustre Finish. The last coat should be'applied without the addition of any thinner whatever, For Xou-Absorbcnt Surfaces such as old plastered walls, old woodwork, old metal ceilings, old painted walls, also to finish new metal ceilings. It is best on all such surfaces, excepting new metal ceilings, to wash with soap and hot water and rinse thoroughly with clear water to remove all grease, dirt and the deposits caused by the fumes of cook¬ ing, gas or lamp burners, etc, The surface should be smooth and dry, all loose particles must be removed, and all plaster defects should be carefully cut out and filled with plaster. Any patched places should be given an extra coat of Acme Quality No-Lustre Finish Primer when dry to prevent the extra suction in such places. In case the previous finish is a gloss finish, it should be sandpapered. In the case of old kalsomine finish it should be removed with hot water, and the sur¬ face should be allowed to become thoroughly dry. When the surface is in perfect condition use as a priming coat for previously painted surfaces two parts of Acme Quality No-Lustre Primer and one part of Acme Quality No-Lustre Finish of the color to be used in finish¬ ing. This should be thoroughly mixed and should be brushed out thin and evenly, being careful to cover all the surface thoroughly. Allow 24 hours to dry and apply the Acme Quality No- Lustre Finish the same as on primed new work. To Finish New Close-Grain Woodwork —The surface to be finished should be clean, dry and perfectly smooth. On close-grain woods such as Pine, White Wood, etc., the first coat should have added one pint of raw linseed oil to each gallon of Acme Quality No-Lustre Finish. Allow this to harden from 24 to 48 hours and apply a second coat of Acme Quality No-Lustre Finish without the addition of any thinners or reducers. In case it is desired to apply Acme Quality No-Lustre Finish over oak or open-grain woods, which have not been previously finished, it will be necessary to first apply a coat of Acme Quality Paste Wood Filler in order to close up the pores of the wood and form a smooth, even surface. To use as an undercoat for Enamel on Interior Walls and Ceilings —The first and second coat should be applied as specified in the preceding specifications. Twenty-four hours following the second coat the surface should be sanded lightly with “00” sandpaper, dusted clean and a first coat of Acme Quality Interior Enamel applied. Allow this to harden 24 hours, sand lightly and dust off clean and apply a second coat of Acme Quality Interior Enamel. 41 Tiffany Blends, Stencils and Hand-Painted Effects Acme Quality Xo-Luslre Finish is the only proper foundation for securing the beautiful Blended and Tiffany effects, and for stenciled and hand-painted effects on walls and ceilings. This is work that had best be left for the prac¬ tical decorator, or painter, who by using the Acme Quality Decorators' System can secure an effect in a durable oil painted finish that is equal in appear¬ ance to expensive hand-painted art work, and at an expense that is within the reach of any one who would con¬ sider the use of a good grade of wall paper. The designs produced for use in the Acme Quality Decorators’ System are the work of some of the foremost decorative artists, and are adapted for every class of decoration. The Acme Quality dealer is in a position to show you reproductions of these designs worked out in color, or if he does not have the full size design, ask the dealer to show you the Acme Quality Decorators’ System catalog. The re¬ sults as shown can be easily obtained by the practical painter or by one who has had practical experience in painting and decorating. Even if they have had no previous experience in this particular class of work Kalsomining Acme Quality Kalsomine is put up in the form of a dry powder. It gives a soft, flat, artistic effect and at the same time is absolutely sanitary— which can not be said of wall papers and burlaps. However, the finish can not be washed when it becomes soiled. To prepare for application : — New Work should first be sized. For sizing we recommend Acme Quality Liquid Wood Filler or Acme Quality Extra Wall Sizing. Let the sizing dry at least 24 hours be¬ fore applying Kalsomine. Old Work — Thoroughly remove all grease and all old Kalsomine or loose whitewash. Size, if not already sized. To secure the best results we recom¬ mend the use of hot water, as it dissolves the glue binder more readily than cold water. Place Kalsomine in a clean pail and break up all lumps. Add 1 V 2 pints of hot water. Stir thoroughly to reduce the Kalsomine to a heavy smooth paste. Add very slowly 3Tp>nt of hot water, stirring all the time until the water is thoroughly mixed in. Continue stirring, and add gradually another pint of water, then strain through cheese cloth or a fine strainer, to make sure all lumps are broken up. Best results are obtained if the Kalsomine is allowed to stand a half- hour before using. It should be al¬ lowed to cool. Stir thoroughly before using and if too heavy a very little more cold water may be added. Apply with kalsomine brush. A five-pound package will cover about 450 square feet on smooth walls over a sized or previously finished surface. Offered in white and a variety of hand¬ some, delicate tints and rich colors. 42 Re-Finishing Furniture Varnish in Varnishes for furniture differ in ac¬ cordance with the character of the finish desired. There are three kinds of var¬ nish finishes: Gloss Finish, Rubbed Finish and Polished Finish. .-I Gloss Finish means that varnish has been Furniture left in the gloss as applied, .4 Rubbed Finish means that varnish has been rubbed to a smooth dull finish and a Polished Finish means that after rub¬ bing, the varnish has been polished to a brilliant lustre. Acme Quality Furniture Varnishes Are adapted for obtaining a Gloss Finish upon furniture of all kinds where the articles do not demand a rubbed or polished finish. These latter finishes cannot be obtained satisfactorily by the use of "Furniture” varnishes. To apply upon an article where the finish is badly cracked, scratched or marred, first remove the old finish with Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Re¬ mover, as explained on page 26. When the surface is perfectly clean and smooth, two coats of Furniture Varnish should be applied with a chiseled var¬ nish brush. Allow the first coat to stand for 24 hours, then sand lightly with "00” sandpaper; then apply the second coat. If the old finish is in fairly good condition, one coat of Acme Quality Furniture Varnish will be sufficient. The old finish, how¬ ever, must be sandpapered smooth and be perfectly clean before apply¬ ing the Varnish. Acme Quality Hard Oil Finishes Are varnishes which may be used to obtain a gloss finish or may be rubbed and polished. They are adapted for all kinds of furniture where an excellent finish is desired. io Obtain a Gloss Finish the old, finish, if badly scratched or marred, should first be removed with Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Remover, as explained on page 26. When the surface is perfectly clean and smooth, apply two coats of Acme Quality Hard Oil Finish, using a chiseled varnish brush. Allow from 24 to 36 hours to harden and then sand lightly with "00” sandpaper: then apply the second coat. 43 If the old finish is in fairly good condi¬ tion, first sand it smooth with “00” sandpaper, dust clean and apply only one coat of Hard Oil Finish. To Obtain a Rubbed Finish the same method should be employed as for a gloss finish, except that two coats of Acme Quality Hard Oil Finish are necessary whether the old finish is en¬ tirely removed or merely sandpapered smooth. After the second coat has stood for three days, it should be rubbed with powdered pumice stone and water or rubbing oil. Use rubbing felt for rubbing, first dipping into the oil or water and then into pumice stone and rubbing until brush marks are removed and surface is smooth. To Obtain a Rubbed Finish Effect by a Very Economical Method use Acme Quality No-Rub Flat Finish. This varnish produces a flat or rubbed effect and saves the labor and time of rubbing the varnish with pumice stone and oil in the usual manner. It is recommended when economy and time are important and is not as superior in appearance as the rubbed effect pro¬ duced in the regular manner. One coat over an old finish that has been sanded smooth is sufficient. Apply two coats when the old finish has been completely removed down to the bare wood. Allow 24 hours for the first coat to harden, then sand lightly and apply second coat. This finish can not be polished. To Obtain a Polished Finish the sur¬ face which has been rubbed should stand for at least 24 hours. It should then be polished with powdered rotten stone and polishing oil or water until a high lustre appears. When polishing, cotton waste or a soft cloth should be saturated with water and then dipped into polishing oil and rotten stone and the varnish rubbed until a high lustre appears. Acme Quality Vul-K-Lac The Finest Finish for Dining Room Tables, Sideboards and Fine Furniture. Acme Quality Vul-K-Lac will give the very finest rubbed and polished finishes upon fine furniture, such as dining room tables, sideboards, etc. If the old finish is in bad condi¬ tion remove with Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Remover as explained on page 26. If the old finish is in fairly good condition, sandpaper smooth. Staining To Use Acme Quality Art Wood Finish The old finish (whether varnished, painted, or enameled) should first be removed with Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Remover, as described on page 26. When surface is per- Apply two coats of Acme Quality Vul- K-Lac whether you remove old finish or not. Allow 24 hours for the first coat to dry, then sand lightly with "00” sandpaper and dust clean. Apply second coat. Allow the second coat to stand 48 hours and then rub as de¬ scribed on the preceding page. The finish maybe left in this state, if desired, or 24 hours after rubbing, it may be polished as described above. Furniture fectly clean and smooth, apply a single coat of any of the handsome Mission, Weathered, Flemish, or other artistic stain-effects in which Acme Quality Art Wood Finishes are offered. Directions for applying appear on page 27. Should the old finish be a stain that has penetrated the wood (such a 44 . AVERY LU-.U COLUMBIA UNIVcRSuY finish can not be removed with a Paint and Varnish Remover) Art Wood Finish may be applied over it and very pretty effects are frequently secured in this manner, although the result will not be the same color as when applied upon an unfinished surface. The color of the old stain affects the new finish. It is best to use a color of Art Wood Finish that is darker than the old stain. Shellac, wax or varnish applied over these stains will enhance the beauty of the stain and lend life to the finish. To Shellac Over S'ain use a single coat of Acme Quality Shellac reduced one- quarter with denatured or wood alcohol. To I 'arnish Over Stain use Acme Qual¬ ity Varnish as described on page 26. Staining and Varnishing F Acme Quality 1 'arno-Lac is offered for this purpose. In making this finish, stains are combined with a good quality of varnish in such a man¬ ner that the colors of expensive woods, such as the oaks, mahogany, cherry, walnut, as well as many fancy stain- effects such as Mecca Green and Turkish Red, may be produced over an old finish, whether painted stained, var¬ nished or enameled, as well as upon an unfinished surface. It is not necessary to remove the old finish unless it is in bad condition, (cracked, badly marred and defaced, or worn through). If in bad condition, it should always be re¬ moved with Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Remover, as explained on j>age 26. If old finish is not to be removed sandpaper smooth with “00” sand¬ paper. Have surface dry and clean. Apply Varno-Lac with chiseled varnish brush. If the old finish is of a darker shade than the shade of Varno-Lac to be used, a coat of Varno-Lac Ground Color should first be applied. This Ground Color covers the surface solidly, One or two coats of Acme Quality No- Rub Flat Finish are frequently used. This varnish imparts a lustreless, rubbed effect, without the labor and expense of rubbing the varnish. To Wax Over Stain use Acme Quality Floor Wax (called “floor” wax but equally good for woodwork or furni¬ ture). It is prepared in a thick paste form and is applied with a soft cloth or cotton waste just as it comes in the can. After being applied a few minutes, it should be rubbed briskly with a clean soft cloth to give the proper polished effect. The wax is very light in color and will not affect the most delicate shades of stain or the lightest colored woods. rniture at One Application. covering bad spots of color or other blemishes, and giving a uniform color over which Varno-Lac Stains will ap¬ pear to the best advantage. Allow Ground Color to stand 48 hours before applying following coat. Allow 36 to 48 hours for first coat of Varno-Lac Stain to dry and then sandpaper lightly with “00” sandpaper and dust off clean. Apply a second coat in the same manner as first. If a rubbed or polished finish is desired, the last coat of Varno-Lac maybe rubbed after standing 3 to4days, and polished 24 hours after rubbing. To rub use powdered pumice stone and rub¬ bing oil or water. Saturate rubbing felt in the oil or water, dip in the pumice stone and rub Varno-Lac until surface is perfectly level and brush marks dis¬ appear. To polish allow the rubbed surface to stand 24 hours, then polish with powdered rotten stone and polish¬ ing oil until a high lustre appears. When Quick Results are Desired Use Acme Quality Varnish Stains (Davies’). They also may be used for staining and varnishing at a single application, 46 but differ from Acme Quality Yarno- Lac in drying more quickly (24 hours is sufficient between coats) and are not adapted for producing a rubbed or Waxing ,4 cme Quality Floor 11 ax (called‘' floor’ ’ wax, but equally good for furniture or woodwork) is an excellent finish for var¬ nished, shellaced, or stained furniture that has become dimmed, marred or worn. It fills and hides scratches and defects and gives a hard lustrous finish easy to keep bright and clean. Prepared in a thick paste form and is applied with a soft cloth or cotton waste polished finish. They impart an excellent varnish-stain finish where quick results are demanded. The method of application is same as for Yarno-Lac. Furniture just as it comes in can. After being applied a few minutes, it should be rubbed briskly with a clean soft cloth to secure the proper polished effect. The Wax is very light in color and will not affect the most delicate shades of stain or lightest colored woods. It is so eco¬ nomical, imparts such a satisfactory finish and is so easily applied, that it should always be kept in the home. Enameling Furniture Acme Quality Enamel (Neal's) will impart a perfect Enamel finish upon any previously finished surface whether varnished, painted, stained or enameled. First see that the old finish is in proper condition to secure good results. A surface in good condition requires only to be sandpapered smooth and until the lustre of the original finish is entirely removed. If surface is in very bad condition it should be removed with Acme Quality Paint and Yarnish Remover, as explained on page 26. The Finest Finish may be obtained in the following manner: When surface is in proper condition, apply two coats of Acme Quality Enamel Primer, the second coat being slightly tinted with the finishing color, if the finishing coats are not white. Allow 24 hours for each coat to dry, then sand lightly with”00” sandpaper and dust off clean. Xext apply a coat of Acme Quality Enamel (Xeal’s) of the color desired for the finished work. Flow on thin with a chiseled varnish brush. Avoid “lapping” by not brushing over the Enamel after it has begun to “set.” Should Enamel not work freely, add a very little turpentine. Allow 36 hours for Enamel to harden and then rub with curled hair or with pumice stone and water. Apply the next and final coat in the same manner. If a regular enamel-gloss finish is desired, this is all that is necessary. A Rubbed Finish may be imparted by rubbing smooth with powdered pumice stone and water. Use a piece of rubbing felt kept well saturated with water and dip in pumice stone, rubbing surface smooth and removing brush marks. Allow Enamel to stand three to four days before rubbing. A Polished Finish may be obtained by polishing with powdered rotten stone and water. Use soft cloth or cotton waste, kept well saturated with water and dip in rotten stone, rubbing surface until a high lustre appears. Allow the "rubbed” finish to stand at least 24 hours before polishing. 47 A higher lustre may be obtained when colored Enamels are used, if polishing oil is used in polishing instead of water, but polishing oil should not be used with White Enamel. To pro¬ cure a pure white finish take particular care to keep the work scrupulously clean and use only clear water, pumice stone and rotten stone in rubbing and polishing. An Average Finish may be obtained by applying two coats of Primer and one coat of Enamel, as described on preceding page, the last coat being left in the enamel-gloss. ’ An Inexpensive Finish may be had by applying one coat of Acme Quality Enamel (Neal’s) by flowing on evenly with a chiseled varnish brush. Avoid “lapping” by not brushing over Enamel after it has begun to “set.” Should the Enamel not work freely, add a very little pure turpentine, but not enough to dim the lustre. This finish will not do if the Enamel is lighter in color than the old finish; in that event, follow directions for “An Aver¬ age Finish.” Painting Furniture Acme Quality Household Paints are offered for painting kitchen and laun¬ dry furniture and many things about the home, such as benches, kitchen tables, flower stands and pots, shelves, toys and miscellaneous things that become worn and shabby and require “fixing up” from time to time. These goods are put up in “easy-to-open and close” cans, which keep paint that may be left over in good condition for future use. They are made in a line of appropriate colors, are easily applied with an ordinary paint brush and dry quickly with hand¬ some lustre. To apply, first see that old finish is perfectly clean, dry and smooth, and apply one or two coats of paint, according to finish desired. If two coats are applied, allow first to dry 24 to 48 hours before applying second. Polishing Varnished Furniture Acme Quality Furniture Polish is used for renewing the polish of furniture, pianos, woodwork and all varnished surfaces. It thoroughly cleanses the surface and at the same time imparts a brilliant lustre. It is a clear, trans¬ parent liquid, drying almost instantly and therefore does not gather dust. For this reason it is far preferable to thick, heavy, gummy substances, some¬ times offered as furniture polishes. Apply with a soft cloth or waste, and rub immediately with clean waste or soft cloth. 48 Picture Frames, There are many articles about every home which, becoming worn and marred, are either discarded or placed in out of the way corners, because they are considered too shabby or out of date to correspond with other furnish¬ ings. The garret or store room of the average home contains many articles that have “seen their best days,” which could, with very little trouble or ex¬ pense, be made beautiful as well as Bric-a-Brac, Fite. useful. Acme Quality Paints, Enamels, Stains and Varnishes offer an easy and inexpensive means of renewing old things of this character. They make it easy for anybody to obtain good results, and simple though complete and correct directions appear upon every can. Fol¬ lowing we give information in regard to various methods of finishing that will indicate the possibilities in this direction. Varnishing To Re-varnish an Old Varnished for re-varnishing old furniture, on Surface —Follow the directions given pages 4:1-44. Staining Picture Frames, Bric-a-Brac, Etc. Changing a Varnish, Enamel or Paint Finish to a Stain Finish —Remove the old finish completely with Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Remover, as directed on page 26. When the surface is per¬ fectly clean and smooth apply a single coat of any of the handsome Mission, Weathered, Flemish, or other artistic stain-effects in which Acme Quality Art Wood Finishes are offered. Directions forapplving appear on page 28. Nothing further is absolutely necessary, but as a protection for this Stain and to enhance its beauty we recommend that it be shellaced, varnished or waxed, as instructed on page 27. Staining and Varnishing Picture Frames, Etc. at One Application Acme Quality Varno-Lac is offered “staining and varnishing furniture at for this purpose. Follow directions for one application,” on pages 46-47. 49 Waxing Picture Frames, Bric-a-Brac, Etc. Acme Quality Floor I Vax (called “floor” wax, but equally good for furniture or woodwork) is an ex¬ cellent finish for varnished, shellaced or stained surfaces of all kinds that have become dimmed, marred or worn. It fills and hides scratches and defects and gives a hard lustrous finish not easily marred and easy to keep bright and clean. To apply, follow directions under heading, “Waxing Furniture,” on page 47. Enameling Picture Frames, Bric-a-Brac, Etc. Acme Quality Enamels ( Neal’s ) will impart a perfect enamel finish upon any previously finished surface, whether varnished, painted, stained or enameled. Follow directions for "Enameling Furniture,” on pages 47-48. If it’s a surface to be painted, enameled, stained, varnished or finished in any way, there’s an Acme Quality Kind to fit the purpose. 50 I Radiators, Stoves and Other Metal Surfaces Radiators, Steam and Water Pipes For a Handsome Silver Finish Use Acme Quality Aluminum Enamel —This is composed of finely powdered alum¬ inum, combined with a vehicle that will withstand extreme heat, and is so elastic as to admit of expan¬ sion and contraction due to ex¬ tremes of temperature. It is very tenacious and a single coat covers an unfinished surface solidly. It imparts a bright, handsome finish that is not easily tarnished and is very durable. The method of application is very simple. See that surface is clean and dry. Stir thoroughly and keep well stirred while in use. Use a flat camel- hair or bear-hair brush. It can be ap¬ plied successfully upon any metal, earthenware or wood surface and over any old finish. For a Brilliant Gold Effect —Mix dry bronze with Acme Quality Bronzing Liquid to the consistency of thin paint. The bronze should be of a fine grade to insure brilliancy and a fine finish. Apply in the same manner as Acme Quality Aluminum Enamel. A single coat forms a solid, brilliant covering that will resist great heat and extremes of temperature and can be applied suc¬ cessfully upon metal, earthenware, wood or over old finishes of all kinds. Stoves, Ranges, Acme Quality Iron Enamel is made to impart a brilliant, jet black finish to stoves, ranges, heating drums, grates, fire screens, stovepipes, andirons and all surfaces subjected to a great heat. It is better than stove polish and good for wood as well as metal sur¬ faces. Before applying, remove dirt, grease, rust or scale. This may be done with benzine, but be careful not to use it near a fire. Apply a thin coat of Enamel with a soft varnish brush. For an ex¬ tra fine finish apply two coats, per¬ mitting the first coat to stand at least Stove Pipes, Etc. 24 hours before applying the second. Should Enamel not work freely, add a very little turpentine. Surfaces exposed directly to flames, or that become “red hot,” will require enameling more fre¬ quently than other parts. When a freshly enameled surface is subjected to ex¬ treme heat, it may give off an odor for a short time, but it quickly disappears. To Use Acme Quality Stovepipe Enamel A brilliant black finish. This is offered in Black and Russia Iron Color. It dries 51 with a brilliant lustre, withstands great heat and extremes of temperature. Have surface clean and dry. Use a soft var¬ nish brush. Should it not work freely, add a very little turpentine—not enough to dim the lustre. One coat is usually sufficient, but for an extra fine finish two may be applied, in which event, Wrought Neal's Enamel {AcmeQuality) Wrought Iron Finish impartsa dull black, lustreless finish to wrought iron, wood, and metal surfaces of all kinds. It is perfectly adapted for re-finishing such surfaces and for imparting a wrought iron effect to metal or other surfaces, such as lamps, chandeliers, andirons, allow r at least 24 hours for the first coat to harden. It works equally well upon metal and wood surfaces and over old finishes. This Enamel prevents rust and decay of iron, is inexpensive, easy to apply and will save cost of labor and material many times over in added length of service of article upon which applied. Iron Work brackets, grille work, picture frames, inside and outside ornamental iron work, etc. To apply have surface per¬ fectly clean and dry. Stir well. Flow- on thin with soft varnish brush (camel- hair preferred) being careful not to go over same surface twice, as this is apt to cause the black to dry glossy in spots. If it’s a surface to be painted, enameled, stained, varnished or finished in any way, there’s an Acme Quality Kind to fit the purpose. 52 Bath - Tubs and Surfaces Exposed to Water and Steam Acme Quality Bath-Tub Enamel (Xcal's) is an ideal finish for many articles besides bath-tubs and foot-baths. It forms a hard, durable, lustrous enamel surface that will resist the action of steam or moisture in any form. It makes a sanitary, cleanly' and inviting finish for the inside and outside of refrigerators and ice-boxes. The woodwork, walls and ceilings of bathrooms may also be en¬ ameled to advantage. To Enamel an Old Zinc Bath-Tub, first see that the surface is clean, dry and smooth. Stir Enamel well. Apply in thin, even coats with a chiseled var¬ nish brush, being careful not to go over the surlace after Enamel has com¬ menced to "set. Commence at top of the tub, finishing sides first. If Enamel should not brush on easily, add a very little turpentine—not enough to dim the lustre. Allow from 24 to 48 hours for each coat to harden and when hard sandpaper all but last coat lightly with 00 sandpaper. Three or four coats make an excellent finish. Allow three days lor last coat to harden before turning on the water. To Enamel Bath-Tlibs that have been Enameled Before, observe the same process as for new surfaces, except that two or three coats at the most will make an excellent finish. For II all and Blaster Surfaces that have been Finished Before, first wash the surlace clean with warm water to which a little ammonia may be added, then sandpaper smooth with “00" paper. Dust off loose particles. Apply' two coats of Acme Quality' Enamel Primer tinting second coat slightly' with finishing color, if white is not to be used. Allow 24 hours to harden, then sand lightly with "00" sandpaper and dust off clean. Apply two coats of Acme Quality Bath-Tub Enamel (Neal s), allowing 24 to 48 hours lor first coat to harden, then sandpaper lightly and dust off clean and apply finishing coat. One gallon of Primer will cover about 000 square feet and a gallon of Enamel about 450 to 500 square feet. A rubbed finish (smooth and lustreless) may' be imparted by rubbing with finely' powdered pumice stone and water. Let Enamel stand three to f ur days before rubbing. .4 polished finish may be obtained by polishing rubbed finish with rotten stone and water. For Wood and Plaster Surfaces that have not been Finished Before, the same directions apply as for previously finished surfaces, except that plastered surfaces should first be sized w'irh Acme Quality Extra Wall Sizing, or Acme Quality No- Lustre Primer. 53 Carriages, Autos, Wagons and Other Vehicles Carriages and Automobiles Anne Quality Carriage and Automobile Paints (Neal’s) are made expressly for re-finishing carriages, buggies, automo¬ biles, road carts, sleighs and vehicles of all kinds. They are made from fine car¬ riage varnish combined with the highest grade of color. They may be applied by anyone by following very simple di¬ rections. The expense of re-finishing a vehicle is very slight. Acme Quality Carriage and Automobile Paints (Neal’s) are offered in black, deep greens, wine colors, vermilion, blue, yellow, auto gray and carmine red. They dry quickly and hard and are used for many other purpo¬ ses besides repainting vehicles. Iron fen¬ ces, lawn settees, porch furniture, lawn swings, flower stands, store fronts, in fact for any old thing —indoors or outdoors— requiring a durable varnish-gloss finish in rich, handsome colors, can be satisfac¬ torily finished with these paints. To Finish Surfaces Painted Before — Clean the old surface thoroughly with soap and water, or water to which a small amount of ammonia is added. Use warm water if possible. Sand sur¬ face smooth with “00" sandpaper and dust off clean. Apply Acme Quality Carriage and Automobile Paint (Neal’s), flowing on smoothly with chiseled var¬ nish brush. This is usually sufficient, but when the old finish is in verv bad condition, when an extra fine finish is desired, or when a light color is applied over a darker color, two coats should be ap¬ plied, sandingthe first lightly after 48hours, with “00” sandpaper, before brushing on the second coat. When two coats are used thin first coat with one-third turpentine. When the old surface is so badly worn, cracked and marred that it would be impossible to sand¬ paper smooth, it should be removed with Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Remover, as explained on page 26. When old finish is removed, proceed in the same manner as for surfaces that have not been previously finished. To Finish Surfaces that have not been Finished Before —Prime first with Acme Quality Strictly Pure White Lead in Oil. For soft wood, thin Lead to the consistency of liquid paint by adding raw linseed oil and a little turpentine; for hard wood, use more turpentine and a little raw linseed oil. Tint the White Lead slightly by adding a small amount of the Carriage and Automobile Paint. Apply with flat paint brush. After 48 hours sandpaper smooth with “0” or “00" paper. Apply a second coat of White Lead, tinted as before, but thinned in the same manner as for hard wood. After 48 hours sandpaper and apply one or two coats of Acme 54 Quality Carriage and Automobile Paint (Neal's) with chiseled varnish brush. If two coats are used thin first coat one- third with turpentine and allow to harden for 48 hours and-sandpapcr lightly with “00” paper before applying finishing coat. Re-Finishing Carriage and Auto Tops Acme Quality Carriage and Automobile Top Dressing ( Neal's) imparts a brilliant jet black finish to leather and rubber tops, dashboards, etc. It is also suitable for leather goods, such as satchels, hand bags, etc. It is easily-applied, dries hard quickly and forms a tough, elastic finish that will withstand washing, rain and exposure. To apply, first wash surface with warm water and soap to remove all dirt and grease. Rinse with clear, cold water to remove any soap that may- remain. Let the sur¬ face dry thoroughly before applying the Dressing. One coat is sufficient when surface is not in bad condition, but for surfaces very much worn, two thin coats should be applied, allowing 24 to 36 hours for undercoat to become hard. If Dressing does not spread easily, add a very little turpentine. Apply with varnish brush. Enameling Bicycles Acme Quality 'Cycle Enamel is offered in a line of rich, handsome yellows, reds, blues, browns, greens, maroon, black, ivory and white. It gives a highly brilliant, glossy finish that will resist the hardest tvear and exposure. Put up in Ji-pint cans ready for use. Anyone can apply it To Apply —Clean the surface thor¬ oughly with soap and warm water, or water to which a little ammonia is added. Be sure that no grease, dirt or foreign substance remains on the sur¬ face. Sandpaper surface with “00” paper. Stir Enamel well. Apply with a chiseled varnish brush. One coat of a dark color is frequently sufficient. If a light color, two or possibly three coats may be used. Allow 24 hours between coats and sandpaper undercoats lightly with “00’ paper. Should the Enamel not work freely, add a very little turpentine. Wagons and Farm Implements Acme Quality I \ r agon Paint is offered in black, yellow, green, blue and red for wagons, trucks, farm implements and heavy vehicles of all kinds. It is ready to apply- and may¬ be used successfully- by any-body by fol¬ lowing very simple directions. This paint dries with a handsome lustre, covers solidly- over old finishes, is tough and durable. The very small expe tse and trouble to re-finish a wagon or ex¬ pensive implements with these goods, leaves no good excuse for permitting such property to rust out and rot out for lack of paint. To Apply —Clean the surface thor¬ oughly- with soap and water, or water with a small amount of ammonia added, and see that all grease and dirt are re¬ moved. Sandpaper with “0” paper if very rough. Stir paint well and keep stirred while in use. Apply- a coat of Acme Quality Wagon Paint with a soft varnish brush, being careful to brush out evenly-. Allow 48 hours to dry-, then sandpaper lightly with “00” paper, dust off clean and apply a second coat. Should the paint not work freely, add a very little turpentine—not enough to dim the lustre. oo Screens, Porch Furniture. Garden Pools. Blackboards Window and Acme Quality Screen Enamel is offered for finishing wire window and door screens and frames. Does not clog the meshes and imparts a handsome enamel finish that will resist severe exposure and prevent rusting. It is ready to use and can be applied by anyone. Offered in green, gloss black, and flat black. To use, have surface Door Screens perfectly clean and dry. Stir well and keep stirred while in use. Apply Enamel with a varnish brush. One coat is sufficient on wire, but on new woodwork, or when an especially fine finish is desired, two coats may be applied to advantage. Sand first coat lightly with “00” sandpaper after it has stood for 24 hours. Lawn and Porch Furniture Acme Quality Porch Furniture Enamel is made purposely to give a brilliant enamel finish in black, bright red, or green to lawn and porch furniture, chairs, settees, swings, flower stands, iron railings, etc. To apply see that old surface is perfectly clean. If rough, sandpaper smooth with “0” paper. Stir Enamel and keep well stirred while in use. One coat is usually sufficient but two may be applied to advantage over a very old and weather-beaten surface, or when an extra fine finish is desired. This finish works equally well on wood or metal. Acme Quality Cat > iage and Automobile Paints (Neal's) make an excellent finish for lawn and porch furniture. They are offered in appropriate colors, very easy to apply and give a hard, durable var¬ nish-gloss coating which resists moisture, rain and shine excellently. Complete directions for applying are given on page 55. Acme Quality Varnish is offered for varnishing and re-varnishing porch and lawn furniture, whether wicker, reed, wood or metal. Acme Quality Extero- lite is particularly adapted for this purpose, being made especially to with¬ stand rain, shine and outside exposure. It is very pale and will not discolor wicker work or light colored wood. To apply, see that surface is clean and dry. Sandpaper old surface smooth and apply Exterolite with chiseled var¬ nish brush. One coat over an old finish is usually sufficient. For wicker or rattan work that has not previously been finished, apply two coats, reducing each with about one-third turpentine. Allow 48 to 60 hours for first coat to harden, then sand lightly with “00” sandpaper before applying next. 56 Garden Tools and Implements Acme Quality Carriage a>id Automobile Paint (Xeal’s) makes the best protective coating for articles of this description, such as lawn mowers, hose reels, wheel¬ barrows, rakes, hoes, ladders, etc. The paint is ready to apply and forms a hard, lustrous, durable coating that will withstand outside exposure and rough handling. Complete directions for apply¬ ing will be found on page 55. Blackboards Acme Quality Liquid Slating is designed specially for finishing and refinishing blackboards. It is very durable and gives an exceptionally fine surface for taking the chalk. Offered in Black and Deep Green. To apply, on new work, see that the surface is perfectly smooth and dry. First size with a coat of Acme Quality Extra Wall Sizing thinned one-third with benzine, or Acme Quality Liquid Wood Filler just as received in the can. After seven to eight hours, apply a coat of Liquid Slating, using a flat bristle brush. Let stand for six hours and then apply a second coat. If the Slating is too thick or shows a tendency to dry glossy, thin with a very little pure turpentine. On surfaces that have been previously fin¬ ished, omit the sizing and apply one coat of the Slating. One gallon will cover from 600 to 700 square feet on an average surface. If it’s a surface to be painted, enameled, stained, varnished or finished in any way, there’s an Acme Quality Kind to fit the purpose. 57 Row Boats, Canoes, Launches, Sail Boats, \achts We offer a complete line of Acme marine craft. Th y are put up in eonveni- Quality materials suitable for protecting ent size puc kages and possess the greatest and artistically finishing all kinds of possible weather-resisting properties Canoes The entire outside surface of canoes and row boats is usually finished in one color and with the same kind of material; but on motor boats, larger sail boats and yachts, different materials are required for the different exposures and a greater latitude in color and style of finish is customary. Acme Quality Carriage and Automo¬ bile Paints (Neal’s) make an excellent finish for canoes. They are offered in appropriate colors, are very easy to apply, and give a hard, durable varnish gloss coating which resists the action of the water excellently. To Finish Exterior of Hull Clean old surface thoroughly, using soap and water, or water to which a small amount of ammonia has been added. Be sure to remove all grease, dirt and foreign substances. Allow this to be¬ come perfectly dry, then sand the sur¬ face smooth with "00” sandpaper and dust off clean. Ap ply Acme Quality Carriage and Automobile Paint (Xeal’s) flowing on smoothly with a suitable varnish brush. This is usually sufficient. When the old finish is in very bad condition or when a light color is ap¬ plied over a darker color, two coats of Acme Quality Carriage and Automobile Paint (X'eal's) should be applied. Allow this first coat to dry at least 48 hours and sand lightly with “00” sandpaper and dust off clean before applying a second coat. Finishing the Interior of the Canoe The hull proper should be finished in the same manner as described for fin¬ ishing the exterior. Gratings, thwarts, paddles and varnished work, if in good condition, should be sanded with “00” sandpaper, dusted off clean and then varnished with Acme Quality Exterolite, or Acme Quality Sparkote. For com¬ plete directions for applying the varnish, see page 21. If the surface is in bad condition, re¬ move the old varnish, using Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Remover, the use of which is described on page 26. After this is done varnish may be ap¬ plied the same as before described. 58 Row Boats These are usually painted inside and out, using the same material on all surfaces. To l sc Acme Quality Marine Paint or Acme Quality House Paint Be sure the boat is perfectly dry. Remove ail dirt and grease by scrubbing with soap and water, or water to which a small amount of ammonia has been added. Remove all loose or scaly paint. If the paint is in bad condition, it is best Motor Boats, Launches, In painting or refinishing any sort of a boat remember that the surface must be free from dampness if good results are desired. Paint should not be ap¬ plied early in the Spring when there is frost in the wood or on the surface. Boats should not be docked and im¬ mediately painted, but should be given sufficient time to become free from moisture before paint is applied. Wherever possible the refinishing of a boat should be done from the top down with the exception of decks and to remove the entire paint coating, using Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Re¬ mover, the use of which is described on page 26. Remove all loose putty, then proceed with the application of Acme Quality House Paint or Acme Quality Marine Paint, in the same manner as described on pages 14 and 15. Use a good grade of White Lead putty for stopping cracks. Do not use the ordi¬ nary commercial putty such as is com¬ monly furnished for ordinary house painters’ use. Sail Boats and Yachts floors, which are usually finished after the balance of the work is completed. Before doing any work whatever the boat should be carefully cleaned, the surface along the water line should be washed with gasoline or turpentine to remove any oil or grease, and then the ent ire surface should be carefully cleaned by washing with soap and water, or water to which a small amount of ammonia has been added. Rust stains on white or light colored paint may be re¬ moved by using a solution of oxalic acid. Painting Decks and Floors New Work, Canvassed Decks Practically all wooden decks and floors for exterior exposure are canvassed. The decks should first be smoothed thor¬ oughly, seams should be calked, and the entire deck be given a coat of paint, being careful to work the paint well 'ntothe cracks. Putty cracks carefully, or fill them with Crack and Crevice Filler. Allow this to harden, then sand the surface smooth and apply a heavy coat of paint, laying canvas immediate¬ ly before the paint becomes hard. To Use Acme Quality Deck Paint on New Canvas Decks For first coat reduce the paint by the addition of from two to three pints of raw linseed oil to each gallon. Apply this generously that the canvas may become well saturated with the paint. Do not dampen the canvas before paint¬ ing, but be sure it is perfectly dry. Allow first coat several days to harden as on account of its penetrating the 59 canvas it hardens slowly. Apply a second coat without the addition of any thinner. Allow this to become per¬ fectly hard, sand the entire surface, dust off clean and apply a third coat, which, when hard, will produce a dur¬ able and beautiful finish. One gallon of Acme Quality Deck Paint reduced as directed will cover about lot) square feet of surface on the first or priming coat on new canvas. On second coat and succeeding coats, one gallon will cover from -J00 to 500 square feet of surface. Prev iously Painted Canvas Decks Decks on which the old paint has begun to check or crack should be sand¬ papered or holystoned to remove as much of the old paint as possible. Then apply two coats of Acme Quality Deck Paint in accordance with direc¬ tions for new work, except that the first coat need not be reduced. If, for any reason, the paint does not seem to brush out freely it may be thinned slightly with turpentine, not more than one- half pint to a gallon. Painting Wooden Decks Uncanvassed The usual practice on floors and decks is either to varnish or cover them with canvas, and then paint them. However, in some instances it is necessary to paint without canvassing. l'o Use Acme Quality Deck Paint on Bare Wood See that the surface is perfectly smooth. Apply a first coat of Acme Quality Deck Paint reduced by the ad¬ dition of one quart of raw linseed oil to each gallon of paint being careful to work the paint well into the cracks. Fill cracks with Acme Quality Crack and Crevice Filler. Apply succeeding coats without the addition of any thinner allowing from 36 to 48 hours between coats On first coat one gallon will cover about 400 square feet, and on the following about 500 square feet of surface. Varnishing Decks and Floors To Use Acme Quality Varnish Neptune Spar is eminently suitable for decks, floors of cabins and similar surfaces subjected to extremely hard usage. It may be used over painted suifaces or on natural or stained wood. We also recommend the use of Acme Quality Exterolite or Acme Quality Sparkote, Acme Quality Sparkote being particularly recommended for surfaces where it is necessary to use a varnish that will set free from dust in a short length of time. For New Work The surfa e must be clean, dry and smooth. If the wood is “open-grained” apply Acme Quality Paste Wood Filler as directed on page 32. Three coats make the finest finish. Allow four days between coats, or in the case of a quicker drying varnish be sure that the varnish is thoroughly hardened. Sandpaper the undercoat slightly and dust off clean be¬ fore applying succeeding coats of var¬ nish. The last coat may be rubbed to a flat finish with finely powdered pumice stone and rubbing oil or water. One gallon of Acme Quality Varnish will cover from 500 to 000 square feet, one coat. For Surfaces Previously Varnished If the varnish is in bad condtion re¬ move the old varnish with paint and 60 varnish remover, smooth the surface with a scraper, and if the wood is weather-stained bleach with oxalic acid, washing the acid off thoroughly with liberal applications of warm water. Allow the surface to become thoroughly dry, then proceed as for new work. If the surface is in good condition, sand with "00” sandpaper and dust per¬ fectly clean. After this apply one or two coats of the proper Acme Quality Varnish. If two coats are applied, allow the first coat to become perfectly hard before applying a second. The finishing coat may be rubbed to a flat finish in the same manner as specified in the previous paragraph for rubbing the last coat on new work. Staining and Filling This work is necessarily done before varnish is applied. Directions for stain¬ ing and filling are given on pages 24, 27 and 28. Filler is only required on open-grain woods. Under no conditions must close-grain woods be filled, nor is shellac to be used for undercoats on marine work, Finishi The spars of large boats are usually painted in distinctive colors and lor this work Acme Quality Marine paints are used, the same directions applying as have been given previously. Spars on yachts and small sail boats are invariably finished in the natural. Finishing On pleasure craft, gasoline motors, and different pieces of machinery are usually finished in an easily cleaned gloss finish. For this purpose we re¬ commend the use of Acme Quality Carriage Paint (Neal’s) applied in ac- ig Spars Use either Acme Quality Neptune Spar, Exterolite or Sparkote, the same direc¬ tions applying as for finishing decks. Caution: Never use Shellac as an undercoat, but build up the finish, using the same quality varnish through¬ out. Machinery cordance with directions shown on page 54. For exhaust manifolds or surfaces exposed to extreme heat use Acme Quality Aluminum Enamel, or Acme Quality Iron Enamel. Apply these in accordance with directions on page 51. Finishing Fittings, Pipe Rails, Stanchions, Awning Frames, etc. For small pleasure craft, these are finish. For directions in applying almost invariably finished with Alum- Aluminum Paint see page 51. inum Paint, or are in the polished brass Finishing Cabins and Upper Works 1 o Use Acme Quality Marine Paints painting row boats. See instructions The same directions apply here as for on page 59. 61 To Use Acme Q ual i ty Enamel (Neal’s) or Acme Quality Duronamel See directions for enameling woodwork and surfaces that have been previously finishcd as given in detail on pages 30 and 31. I' or Staining, or Staining and Varnish¬ ing new woodwork, or woodwork that has been previously painted, enameled or varnished, see pages 27 and 2S. For I arnishing and Re-Varnishing, see instructions for varnishing new woodwork on pages 24 and 25, and for re-varnishing old woodwork on page 26. In varnishing cabins, either inside or outside, we recommend the use of Acme Quality Sparkote, Acme Quality Extero- lite, or Acme Quality Neptune Spar. These varnishes are made especially for marine work. In ease of old varnished work which is to be re-varnished, the usual prac¬ tice is to first remove the old varn¬ ish with Paint and Varnish Remover, then scrape the entire surface with a sharp scraper, removing scratches, bruises and stains as much as possible. After this bleach weather-beaten spots with oxalic acid. Wash this off thor¬ oughly and proceed as for new work. Finishing Hulls Above the Water Line New work should be planed down smooth and the surface sanded. After the seams have been calked apply a coat of Acme Quality Marine Paint over the seams and putty the seams evenly with white lead putty. Prime with Acme Quality Marine Paint in accordance with directions for the use of Acme Quality House Paint as described on page 14 and 15. Allow this to dry thoroughly then go over the entire surface of the hull carefully and glaze all uneven sur¬ faces with white lead putty or quick drying putty tinted to match the finish¬ ing coat. Allow this to harden, sand the entire surface smooth, dust off clean and apply the finishing coats of Acme Quality Marine Paint in accordance with directions described on pages 14 and 15. In case it is desired to finish the hull in a flat or lustreless white, do not use the fiat white as a priming coat, but use Great Lakes Outside White; for the finishing coats use Acme Quality Marine Paint Interior Flat White, which will produce a flat or lustreless finish. To Enamel Hulls Proceed in the same manner as for a flat white finish, using at least two coats of the Interior Flat White. These coa s should be allowed to become perfectly hard, sanded carefully and dus'ed off clean, after which apply a coat of Acme Quality Duronamel. To finish surfaces that have been prev¬ iously painted. Wash along the water line with turpentine or gasoline to remove all grease and foreign substances, which may have accumulated. If the old paint is in bad condition it is best to burn it off entirely, or remove with Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Remover. If the old surface is already in fair condition, clean the surface carefully by scrubbing or washing and remove all rust stains by using a solution of oxalic acid in water, which must afterwards be carefully washed off with liberal applications of clear water. Then proceed in the same manner as for new work which has been primed. 62 Finishing Hulls Below the .Yiit' 11 ork —All seams should be calked, the surfaec smoothed and sandpapered. Paint the seams thoroughly, using Acme Quality Red Lead Composition or Acme Quality Liquid Red Lead. Allow this to become thoroughly dry and putty up seams with white lead putty. Allow this to harden, sandpaper off evenly and apply a coat of Acme Quality Red Lead Composition or Acme Quality Liquid Red Lead, to the entire surface. Allow this to harden and apply a second coat. After this is thoroughly dry apply Acme Quality Copper Paint or Acme Qualily Anti-Fouling Green Copper Paint, apply¬ ing the paint just as received in the can. For best results we recommend that two coats be applied. The finishing coat should be thoroughly dry before putting the boat into the water 7 lulls that have been previously finished. The surface must be perfectly dry. Scrub or wash off the entire surface thorough¬ ly, carefully remove all loose putty, scrape off all loose paint, and sand the entire surface thoroughly, using No. 1 or 1 ’ i sandpaper and dust off clean, coat all seams with Acme Quality Liquid Red Lead or Acme Quality Red Lead Composi¬ tion, and putty up all openings with white lead putty. If it has been necessary to remove the paint clear to the wood, proceed in the same manner as with new work. Usually, however, it will only be necessary to apply two coats of Acme Quality Copper Paint or Acme Quality Anti-Fouling Green Copper Paint, after the preliminary work is finished. Water Line Boats which are intended for use in fresh water can be satisfactorily painted below the water line by using Acme Quality Marine Paint, or Acme Quality House Paint of the desired shade, in¬ stead of Copper Paint or Acme Quality Anti-Fouling Green Copper Paint. How¬ ever, where there is any tendency for marine growths to form we recommend the use of the copper paints. Caution; In sanding old bottoms which have previously been coated with Copper Paint a respirator should be used, or it this is not possible bind several thick¬ nesses of cheese cloth over the nose and mouth, as the dust from copper paint is very injurious to most persons. To Use Acme Quality Aluminum Enamel See description and instructions for using, on page 51. To Use Acme Quality Varnish Smokestack and Boiler Black gives a durable, lustrous black finish that with¬ stands extreme heat and exposure. To apply, first have surface dry and free from dirt, grease and rust. One coat is usually sufficient, but an extra fine finish may be secured by applying a second coat. If two coats are applied, allow 7 the first coat to dry thoroughly before applying second. Sandpaper first coat lightly. One gallon of Smokestack and Boiler Black will cover 400 square feet. General Remarks Painting motor boats, launches, etc. annoyance will be avoided by following Practically all of this work is done by the few simple rules herein outlined, this the owner, who i'i most instances has not applying especially to the repainting, had extensive painting experience. Much Before beginning any work whatever 03 < see that all bilge is removed from the hull of the boat, allow the wood to stand a sufficient length of time to dry thoroughly. Also remote all oil which may have collected in the bilge. In the case of a cabin boat, or a large beat, always begin at the top and work down. Paint the upper works and the cabin first, the outside of the hull above the water line, then the hull below the water line. Finish the fittings, and do the banding and the striping last. The inside of the cabin can be finished at any convenient time if this surface is protected. Spars are usually finished when de¬ tached from the boat and this work can be done at any conenvient time. Do not attempt to apply paint too early in the season while there is yet frost in the wood, as this will be sure to give you trouble. Also examine all sur¬ faces carefully for moisture as painted surfaces show a decided tendency to sweat and gather moisture. This is especially noticeable when the boats are left near the water. Definitions of Priming Coat —The first coat of paint on new wood is called the printing coat. It forms a foundation for following coats of paint. Reducer —Is the liquid used to thin paint, enamel, stain or varnish to the proper working consistency. Covering Capacity —The ability of paint, enamel, stain or varnish to properlv cover or spread over surface. Opacity —The quality of hiding the surface. Paint and enamel should have both covering capacity and opacity, because they must both cover and hide the surface. Varnish and stain must have covering capacity but do not have opacity; that is. they It is always a saving in time to scrub the entire outer surface of the boat thoroughly before applying any paint. Time will be saved if all fittings such as pipe rails, cleats, chocks, plates, venti¬ lators, etc., are removed before painting or varnishing is started. This gives an opportunity of cleaning or refinishing« them and this should be done before they are put back in place. Under no circumstances must Shellac be used nor must liquid fillers be used under any varnished work. Do not use ordinary varnishes for any surfaces which are to be exposed any¬ where near the water Use Acme Quality Sparkote, Acme Quality Exterolite or Acme Quality Neptune Spar. These varnishes arc made especially to with¬ stand extreme exposure. There are dozens of surfaces on every boat where Acme Quality Aluminum Enamel can be advantageously used. Enamel exhaust pipes, intake manifolds, motors, fly wheels, fittings, ports, or in fact any metal surfaces can be given a clean, neat appearance with this finish. I echnical Terms cover but do not hide the surface. Elasticity —The ability of the paint, enamel, or varnish film to expand and contract. Brush Out Well — Working out the paint, enamel or varnish with the brush so that it covers the surface with a smooth, even, thin coat. Flowing On — Putting on a heavy coat of the finish (usually varnish) and allowing it to flow out level instead c-f brushing it out smooth. Laps are the rough, uneven places in a finish which result when the brush is again passed over a surface which has begun “to set,” that is, to harden. (54 Helpful Hints for Home Painters The Care of Acme Quality Paint Brushes > Brushes should ho kept away from heat, moisture, or excessive dryness. Heat will cause the block to shrink and loosen up the bristles. Excessive mois¬ ture will cause the block to swell with the same effect. jVew Brushes always contain a few, loose, short bristles. These should be shaken out as much as possible before the brush is used. Any brush will lose a few bristles on the first day’s work. .4 Paint, Enamel, Stain or Varnish Brush should be cleaned with Turpen¬ tine immediately after using so that it will be in good condition when next needed. Put a little Turpentine in a small vessel and press the bristles firmly against the bottom and sides of the vessel so that the Turpentine will have an op¬ portunity to wash out all of the material you have been using. It is a good plan to rest the bristles on the bottom of the vessel and press slightly, then turn the brush in the hand so as to separate the bristles, and allow the Turpentine to penetrate and remove all paint material. The Turpentine should then be thor¬ oughly washed out of the brush with soap and water, otherwise it is apt to work up under the ferrule and soften the cement. It will sometimes weaken even a Set In Rubber Brush. The brush should then be dried quickly in the open air. The bristles should not be soaked in water or left damp as water softens them and impairs their strength and elasticity. If necessary to leave a paint or varnish brush over night without cleaning it, hang it in a solution of two parts raw Lin¬ seed Oil and one part Turpentine. Cover the bristles entirely with the solution to keep the air from hardening the material in the brush. Do not let the brush soak in water. If paint, varnish or other material has been allowed to dry in your brush, it may be necessary to soak it in some ma¬ terial stronger than Turpentine, as Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Remover, until the old material has been thoroughly softened. It can then be washed out in Turpentine, as above. This should be avoided if possible, as the stronger material is apt to injure the bristles. If a brush is to be put away for future use, clean thoroughly as directed, and then rub a little vaseline on the outside of the bristles to keep them soft and pliable. Wrap the brush in paper and lay it away where it will not be subjected to heat, moisture or excessive dryness. Kalsomine or Cold Water Paint Brushes can be washed out in clear, warm water. Lime or Alkali will ruin a bristle brush. If necessary to use lime or alkali compounds, wash the brush out imme¬ diately after using with a mixture of two parts water and one part vinegar. This will neutralize the alkali and lessen the injury to the brush. Cement Set Brushes will not stand in shellac or materials containing alcohol. The alcohol will dissolve the cement and loosen the bristles. Acme Quality Set In Rubber Varnish Brushes are recom¬ mended for such material, especially Acme Quality No. 527. Dusters should never be wet or put in oil. If necessary to clean them, use turpentine. Varnish Brushes may be used for paint, enamel or stain, but a flat or round paint brush is not satisfactory to use in varnish. 65 Care of the Hands It is wise when painting or finishing to wear a pair of old gloves. If this is not practical, the hands can be pro¬ tected by rubbing a little vaseline on them before starting to paint. If you have been unfortunate enough to get a little paint or finish on your hands, dip your hands in water when you are through, then wash them carefully in turpentine. The vaseline keeps the paint or finishing material from pene¬ trating the skin, and dipping your hands in water before washing in tur¬ pentine will prevent the turpentine from drying the skin and making your hands rough. How to Get Paint, Enamel or Varnish Out of Cloth Fresh paint, enamel or varnish can be removed from cloth with benzine or gasoline. Place a good sized piece of blotting paper under the cloth. Wet another cloth thoroughly with benzine or gasoline and rub the spot hard. The blotting paper will absorb the fluid and prevent it from spreading be¬ yond the spot you are cleaning. After the benzine or gasoline has all evapo¬ rated, cover with a damp cloth and run over with a hot flat iron. If the paint has dried, it may be necessary to soften it with Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Remover, which will not injure ordinary kinds of cloth in the least. After thor¬ oughly softened, paint can be removed with alcohol, using the blotting paper and afterwards the hot flat iron, as described above. How to Avoid “Laps” Avoiding “Laps” is one of the few hard things for an inexperienced per¬ son to learn about painting. A simple remedy for this trouble, is to remember that tables, dressers, side boards or floors have natural “breaks” or panels which should be finished one at a time. For example, the side of a dresser wil] be paneled. Take the top panel and paint, enamel or varnish that part of the dresser. Then take the adjoining panel, and so or, until the entire side is finished. Thus, if there are any laps, they will occur where the panels are joined and will not show. In finishing a floor, start at one cor¬ ner and take two or three boards only. Finish just as wide a surface at a time as the arm naturally sweeps, and paint along the same two or three boards until the entire room has been crossed. Always work from the unfinished into the finished portion, instead of from the finished into the unfinished. A List of Acme Quality Paints and Finishes Mentioned in this Guide Hook and Sizes and Colors in which they are Sold Acme Quality Aluminum Enamel Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints, quarter-pints. Acme Quality Art Wood Finishes Barrels, half- barrels, fixe-gallons, gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints. No 25 Flemish Oak, Xo. 2(3 Antwerp Oak, Xo. 27 Greenish Weathered, Xo. 2S Golden Oak, Xo. 29 Brown Flemish, Xo. 30 Silver Gray, Xo. 31 Mission Oak. Xo. 32 Filipino Green, Xo. 33 Austrian, Oak, Xo. 34 Cherry. Xo. 35 Walnut, Xo. 36 Mahogany, Mahogany Ground Color. Acme Quality Barn and Roof Paint Barrels, half-barrels, five-gallons, gallons. Acme Quality Bath-Tub Enamel (Neal’s) Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints, quarter-pints. Pure White. Acme Quality Bull Frog Green 25-lb. pails, 12J4-lb. pails, 5-lb. cans, 1-lb. cans. Light, Medium, Deep and Double Dee]) Shades. Acme Quality Cabinet Enamel Gallons, half-gallons, quarts. Acme Quality Carriage and Automobile Paint (Neal’s) Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints. Raven Coach Black, Citron Yellow, Brewster Green, Brilliant Blue, Acme Wine, Coach Green, Driving Cart Red, Carmine Red, Vermilion, Clear Car¬ riage and Auto Varnish, Auto Gray. Acme Quality Cement Coater Barrels, half-barrels, five-gallons, gallons, half-gallons, quarts. Ivory White, Dust Drab, Cement Color, Terra Cotta, Green, also Flat White, for inside use only. Acme Quality Carriage andAutomobile Top Dressing (Neal's) Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints. Acme Quality Colors in Oil (Master Painters’) ICO-lb. kegs, 25 and 12p2~lb. pails, 1 and 5-lb. cans. Ivory- Drop Black, English Coach Black, Refined Lamp Black, Sign Writers’ or Lettering Black, Cobalt Blue Shade, Prussian Blue, Ultramarine Blue, Raw Umber—Turkey, Burnt Umber—Turkey, Raw Sienna—Italian, Burnt Sienna—Italian, Vandyke Brown, Chrome Green—Light, Medium and Deep (of standard strength, containing 25% of actual color), Chrome Green, “Double Strength,” Light, Medium and Deep (of double strength, containing 50% of actual color), Chrome Green, Chemically Pure-—Light, Medium and Deep (Pure Green, containing 100% of actual color); Tuscan Red—Light and Deep, Indian Red, Venetian Red, Rose Pink, Rose Lake, Turkey Red (Lake) Carmine Red (Carmine Substitute). 67 True American Vermilion (Chrome Red), English Vermilion, Chrome Yellow, Chemically Pure—Lemon, Medium and Orange; Chrome Yellow “A”—Lemon, Medium and Orange; Golden Ochre, Yellow Ochre—French; Dutch Pink. Acme Quality Crack and Crevice Filler One-pound, two-pound, five-pound, ten-pound Cans. Acme Quality ’ Cycle Enamels Quarter-pints. Jet Black, White, Ivory, Buttercup Yellow, Robin’s Egg Blue, Royal Blue, Extra Deep Blue-Green, Bright Red, Sterling Green, Carmine Maroon, Steam’s Yellow, Brewster Green, Bull Frog Green—Light, Golden Brown— Light, National Blue, French Gray. Acme Quality Enamel Primer Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints and quarter-pints. Acme Quality Enamels (Neal’s) Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half- pints, quarter-pints. Gold and Silver are put up in glass bottles in tin cartons. Standard size No. 1. Lustrous Black, Wrought Iron Finish, Snow White, Nile Green, Blue Tint, Sea Green, Ivory, Wild Rose, Silver Gray, Gobelin, Vermilion, Almerian Green, Oriental Blue, Gold, Silver. Acme Quality Duronamel Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints. Acme Quality Exterior Cement Finish Barrels, half-barrels, five-gallons, gallons, half-gallons, quarts. White, Light Gray, Dark Gray, Lead Color, Slate Color, Cream. Acme Quality Flat Brick Color Kegs, 25-lb. and 1214-lb. tins. Acme Quality Floor Paint (Granite) Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints. Golden Yellow, Light Red, Drab, French Yellow, Gray, Deep Red, Deep Yellow, Light Brown, Lead Color, Green, Border Red, Light Lead Color. Dougall Brown, Coffee Brown. Acme Quality Floor Wax Half-pound, one-pound, two-pound, four-pound, eight-pound cans. Acme Quality Furniture Polish Pint, half-pint and 4-oz. bottles. Acme Quality Iron Pri mer Barrels, half-barrels, five-gallons, gallons. Acme Quality Household Paint Pints, half-pints. Black, White, Peacock Blue, Dark Brown, Light Brown, French Gray, Pea Green, Dark Red, Cream, Pink, Cherry Red, Lead Color, Bright Red, Egyptian Green, Bright Blue, Light Yellow, Screen Green, Screen Black. Acme Quality House Paint Barrels, half-barrels, five-gallons, gallons, half-gallons quarts, pints, half-pints. 12 Ivory. 8 French Gray, 27 Pearl Gray, 44 Silver Gray, 10 Lead Color, 132 Slate Color, 9 Green Stone, 17 Co¬ lonial Yellow. 140 Cream, 32 Light Straw, 54 Tan Brown, 123 Interior Pink, 131 Ottoman Red, 42 Sky Blue, 3 Drab Tint, 52 Lavender, 24 Hazel Brown, 23 Seal Brown, 141 Bungalow Brown, 138 Copper Brown, 120 Vic¬ toria Red,50 Turquoise, 135 Pea Green, 14 Shamrock, 130 Meadow Green, 127 Woodland Green, 38 W. B. Green, 134 Ivy Green, 221 Light Blue, 201 French Gray, 200 Maltese Gray, 202 Light Gray, 204 Dark Gray, 203 Lead Color, 205 Slate Color, 68 > 20S Gray Tint, 207 Sage Tint, 214 Light Olive, 209 Ivory, 211 Light Yellow, 212 Medium Yellow, 213 Buff, 210 Cream, 215 Light Brown, 21(5 Dark Brown, 219 Lavender Tint, 220 Brilliant Red, 217 Victoria Red, 21S Maroon, 222 St. Clair Green, 223 Pea Green, 224 Myrtle Green, 225 Highland Green, 226 Window Blind Green, 227 Dark Green, 206 Extra Deep Green, Outside White, Inside White, Black Acme Quality Interior Enamel Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints, quarter-pints. Snow White, Pearl Gray, Apple Green, Shell Pink, Gobelin, Ivory, Blue Tint, Black—Lustrous or Dead Finish and Claret Color. Acme Quality Iron Enamel Half-pint cans. Acme Quality Kalsomine Tints, barrels, 350 lbs.; half-barrels, 200 to 250 lbs.; drums, 100 lbs.; five- pound cartons, 100 lbs. to case. Offered in Finishing White, Tinting White and Twenty-One Tints. Solid Wall Colors. Barrels, 350 lbs.; 100-lb. drums, 50-lb. drums, 25-lb. drums, 5-lb. car¬ tons, 100 lbs. to case; 2]A-\h. cartons, 100 lbs. to case. Offered in Twelve Colors. Acme Quality Liquid Red Lead Barrels, half-barrels, five-gallons, gallons. Acme Quality Liquid Slating Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints. Black and Deep Green. Acme Quality Liquid Wood Filler Barrels, half-barrels, five-gallons, gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints. Acme Quality Marine Paints Barrels, half-barrels, five-gallons, gallons, half-gallons, quarts. Cabin Color—A, Cabin Color—B Cabin Color—C, Cabin Color —E, Hull Color—A, Hull Color—B, Hull Color— D, Yacht Green, Marine Green, D. & C. Green, Yacht Bronze Green, Marine Bronze Green, Iron Ore Color—A, Iron Ore Color—B, Barge Red, Bul¬ wark Color—B, Spar Color—A, Spar Color—B, Marine White, Great Lakes Outside White, Great Lakes Inside White, Yacht White, Interior Flat White, Interior High-Gloss White, Yacht Black, Steamship Black, Naval Black, Marine Black. Acme Quality No-Lustre f inish Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints. White, No. 56 Light Buff, No. 53 Light Yellow, No. 64 Pink, No. 59 Pea Green, No. 57 Blue Tint, No. 60 Old Rose, No. 22 Light Brown, No. 26 Bright Yellow, No. 25 Rich Red, No. 28 Green, No. 65 Deep Buff, No. 66 Silver Gray, No. 67 Light Tan, No. 68 Ivory, No. 69 Olive Green, No. 70 Light Green, No. 71 Delft Blue, No, 72 Deep Tan, also No-Lustre Primer. Acme Quality Oil Wood Stains Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints. Walnut, Light Oak, Mahogany, Deep Mahogany, Flemish Oak, Dark Oak. Acme Quality Paint and Varnish Remover Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints. Acme Quality Paste Wood Filler Barrels, 900 lbs.; half-barrels, 450 lbs.; 100-lb. kegs; 25-lb., 1234'lb., 5-lb., 1-lb. tins. Natural, Light Antique, Dark An¬ tique, Extra Dark Antique, Extra Dark Golden Oak, Light Golden Oak, Dark Golden Oak, Mahogany. Acme QualityPorch Furniture Enamel Quarts, pints, half-pints. Chair Red, Settee Green, Railing Black. 69 Acme Quality Prepared Graining Colors 1 lb. cans. Ash, Black Walnut, Mahogany, Dark Oak, Light Oak. Acme Quality Screen Enamel Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints. Green, Gloss Black, Flat Black. Acme Quality Shingle Stain Barrels, half-barrels five-gallons, gallons. Xo. 1 Golden Brown, Xo. 2 Indian Red, Xo. 3 Forest Green, Xo. 4 Weather- stain Tint, Xo. 5 Oxide Red, Xo. 6 Ivy Green, Xo. 8 Black, Xo. 9 Moss Green, Xo. 7 Silver Gray, Xo. 10 Bun¬ galow Brown. Acme Qual'ty Stovepipe Enamel Standard size package (with brush for each package) Russia Iron Color and Black Quarts, pints, half-pints, quarter- pints. Acme Quality Strictly Pure White Lead 500-lb., 250-lb., l()0-lb„ 50-lb., 25- lb., 1 2J12-11’. kegs; 1-lb., 5-lb. cans. Acme Quality Varnish Five-gallons, gallons, half-gallons quarts, pints, half-pints. Automobile and Carriage Varnish- Elastic Wearing Body, Quick Rubbing, Quick Black Rubbing, Elastic Gear, One-Coat Coach, Wagon Varnish, Per¬ fection Japan Gold Size, Atlas Coach Japan, Enamel Leather Restorer. Acme Quality Architectural Varnish—Exterior Varnishes—Exterolite, Sparkote, Dur¬ able Spar, Extra Coach. Floor Var¬ nishes—Varnotile Dull Floor Finish, Floor Roc. Flat Finishes—No-Rub Flat Finish and X’o. 1 Flat Finish. Interior Varnishes—Interolite, Extra Pale Fin¬ ishing, Satinwood Finish, Vul-K-Lae, Interior Spar, Interior Coach, Light Hard Oil Finish, No. 1 Coach, Hard Oil Finish, Xo. 1 Furniture and “B” Copal. Special Purpose Varnishes—Bar Top Finish, Linoleum Varnish, Bronzing Liquid, Extra Wall Sizing and Roeko- line Shellac. Damar Varnishes—Pure White Batavia Damar and Extra Damar. Japans and Dryers—N Japan Dryer, Ozone White Dryer, Painters’ O. K. Dryer, Giant Japan Dryer, Orient Japan and Banner Liquid Dryer. Asphaltum Varnishes—Union Black Asphaltum and Raven Black Asphal¬ tum. Marine Varnishes—Neptune Spar Smokestack and Boiler Black, Durable Spar. Acme Quality Varnish Stains (Davies) Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints, quarter-pints. Walnut, Cherry, Mahogany, Dark Oak, Light Oak. Acme Quality Varno-Lac Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints, quarter-pints. Walnut, Light Oak, Mahogany, Deep Mahogany, Cherry, Dark Oak, Turkish Red, Mecca Green, Enamel White, Flat Black, Xatural Wood Finish, Ground Color. Acme Quality Venetian Oxide in Oil Kegs, 25 and 12J4-lb. tins. Acme Quality Veranda Floor Paint Gallons, half-gallons, quarts. Warm Gray, Light Lead Color, Yellow, Bright Tan, Dust Drab, Dark Lead Color. Acme Quality Wagon Paint Gallons, half-gallons, quarts, pints, half-pints. Blue, Red, Green, Yellow, Black, Clear Wagon Varnish. Keystone Metallic Paints Barrels, half-barrels, five-gallons, gallons, half-gallons, quarts. Offered in three appropriate colors Michigan SealWhite (Acme Quality) 500-lb., 250-lb., 100-lb., 50-lb.. 25-lb., 12H-lb. kegs; 1-lb., 2-lb., 3-lb. and 5-lb. cans. 70 f Brushes The use of a proper brush when paint¬ ing or varnishing is necessary if the best results are to be obtained. The following descriptions are given as a guidance* to the best brushes to be used for different purposes. “.4” and “B" Flat Wall Brushes used for general painting. Style “A” is 71 QLS 1 known as a metal bound, flat wall brush. Style “B” is a leather bound or stucco brush.’ Both styles are made in both white or black bristles and in several qualities. Each quality is made in different widths or sizes, the most popular sizes for general painting being the 3§ and 4 inch. The length of the bristle depends on the qual¬ ity and the width. Usually the better qualities and the wider brushes have the longer bristles. “C” and “D” Flat Varnish Brushes. For usein varnish, enamels, and for small surfaces in general. They also are made of either black or white bristles and in various widths, lengths and quali¬ ties. The sizes generally used are 2, 2| and 3 inch. Brush Acme Quality No. 441 is a very popular brush for general use. For high-grade work we recommend Acme Quality brushes Nos. 454, 460, 466 and 448 in the black bristle, and Xos. 492 or 498 in the white bristle, as meeting the requirements of the professional painter. The cheaper grades of varnish brushes should be avoided, as they are usually thin and made of such cheap material that they are not suitable for use where good results are to be obtained. “E" Oval Varnish Brush. These are preferred by many for use on rough or uneven surfaces, as they hold more var- • nish and have more body, which makes it easier to lay a uniform coat on uneven surfaces. Made of either black or white bristle and in various sizes and qualities. The most popular sizes are the 4/0, 6/0 and 8 / 0 . Many practical painters use the oval varnish brush for varnishing all kinds of surfaces in preference to the flat varnish brushes. The larger sizes in the better qualities will be found to be very satis¬ factory for use in general painting. “F” Oval Paint Brush. These are preferred by many for general use in paint¬ ing and will be found exceptionally suited for trimming or painting uneven surfaces such as columns, spindles, narrow weather boarding, cornice work, etc. Made in either black or white bristles and in various sizes and qualities. The most popular sizes are the No. 8 and No. 10. “G" Kalsomine Brush may be used in kalsomining or in materials containing water, such as paste, etc. The flat brush as shown in illustration “G" is the one used by most painters and decorators, although there are some who prefer what is known as the German Kalsomine Brush —illustration “H”. Made in different grades and widths. The most popular sizes of flat kalsomine brushes are the 7 and 8 inch. “J" Sash Tool. Used for drawing sash and painting small surfaces. These brushes are made round, oval or flat, of either black or white bristles, and in various qualities and sizes. We recommend the use of Acme Quality Brushes. They are made in every style and for every purpose for which a brush can be used. 72